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How can I drill through a Linoleum floor? I would like a drill a hole through my dining room floor to run a wire. The floor is carpeted, so I pulled back the carpet in the corner to find an old linoleum floor. I attempted to drill a hole through it, but the linoleum seemed to melt and then form an impenetrable barrier. What type of drill bit could I use to get through the linoleum and the wood below? <Q> Extended Spade Bit . <A> Maybe a hole saw ? <S> I'd say it's worth a shot if you have <S> one - or cheap ones are around $5-10. <S> Otherwise, you could always try cutting with a utility knife until you're past the linoleum. <S> I doesn't have to be pretty if it's going to be beneath carpet. <A> Are you sure it's linoleum and not asbestos tile? <S> Or maybe there is some old porcelain tile are running into? <S> A hole saw should be able to cut though all of it, a high quality hole saw can cut most anything. <S> If it is metal, a step bit should work too. <S> I won't assume to give any suggestions on the correct way to handle asbestos.
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Then drill after you've peeled it back. If it is asbestos do a little research first on the correct way to handle drilling holes.
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Why don't the textures of drywall patches match the room? I recently remodeled a bedroom and installed new drywall. We painted the walls and ceiling with flat paint (since this is in the master bedroom and it is supposed to "hide" imprefections better than glossy finishes). But then we had a few "screw pops" in the ceiling where the drywall screws starting coming out (either due to the wood supporting the drywall drying or poor installation on my part to begin with). I decided to fix the screws by adding new screws to hold the drywall up against the joists and either removed the old screws or screwed them deeper into the drywall. Then I patched the holes and repainted. I figured since I was using the same paint and we had put the initial coat on a month earlier the pathes would be invisible. The color is a perfect match (it is the same paint after all) but the "finish" is all wrong. In artificial light or when looking at it on an angle you can still clearly see the patches. Is there anything I can do to get this finish to match? Is this all happening because my paint is the try "flat enamel" and not an eggshell or semi-gloss? The initial coat on the walls (before the repair) was done with a roller while the paint over the patches was done with a brush. However I don't think that made a difference because there are not brush strokes visible and the difference is not where the new paint is (a larger area than the patches) but it just the patched/sanded area. <Q> Painting with a roller leaves an "orange peel" type texture that you can't match exactly with a brush. <S> When you brushed your new paint on, the orange peel texture in the unsanded areas just telegraphed through your new brushed paint, but the smoothly sanded parts had no such base texture so they look visibly smoother. <S> To fix this I'd go over your patches again with a small roller and you should get the same sheen and texture as in the original paint. <A> Use a roller on the second coat and you will notice the texture will match exactly. <S> That is one of the reasons why you are told to cut in on the edges with a brush first and then roll out the rest of the wall... <S> because if you do it the other way around, then you will end up with a brush width area along all edges with a different texture. <A> Did you paint just one coat over the patches, or two? <S> I've noticed texture differences when I patch something between the first and second coats. <S> Something else you could try is to prime over the patch first, and then paint.
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The difference in the texture is because a roller was used originally and then you are painting the patch with a brush.
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What are some alternatives to wall anchors? I've used these anchors in the past...I really like them for heavy duty mounting in drywall (for things such as vertical standards for shelves).However, these make pretty big holes in the drywall. Eventually if you take them down, put up new ones in different spots, they will essentially add many little holes to the drywall. You can patch it up, but the patched up spots won't have the same holding power. What are my alternatives, if any? <Q> Then you can use a smaller gauge screw (or nail) without any type of anchor required. <S> This will leave a smaller hole in the drywall and give you all the strength you need, but limit you to the places where you can position the item. <S> I am not sure what the weight of the item is that you are looking to hang on the wall but <S> another alternative could be to just use drywall screws without any wall anchor. <S> In my house I do this a lot with light pictures, etc. <S> A drywall screw positioned at a slight downward angle <S> has a good amount of holding power especially if it is something that is not going to get a lot of use but just sit there <S> (I do not recommend just a drywall screw for something like a coat hook). <S> And then you can always use picture hangers like this that would only make a small nail hole: Or even those sticky Picture Hanging Strips like this: <A> I suggest you try some OOK Hangers . <S> They are easy to install, don't make large holes, and hold a surprising amount of weight. <A> I don't have any first-hand experience with these, but they've always looked interesting to me. <S> Monkey hooks /Gorilla <S> hooks " <S> As seen on TV"
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An alternative to using a large wall anchor for heavy duty mounting is to always find a wall stud for whatever item you are hanging on the wall.
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Where do I begin finding estimates for problems with my potential first home? I'm looking at purchasing an older home as a primary dwelling. On going through the house with an experienced Realtor and several experienced DIY people for reference (but not a home inspector or other professional), I've identified several possible problems: A very cold basement, some smells, and other signs - including the seller's agent mentioning possible water into the basement, points to the presence of at least mildew and maybe mold The metal pipes appear to be corroding in places Flickering lights when other electricity is run and very old switches and outlets indicate possible wiring issues The dryer is not vented to the outside, which is a fire code violation There is a recent crack in a wall due to (speculation at this point) a window being replaced with a new window that has too big of a header The flooring in the kitchen is an odd orange color from some sort of leak There are several settlement cracks in walls, ceilings, and what looks to be one in a floor Perhaps some of these problems could be addressed via DIY, but many of them require professionals (I am no plumber or electrician, although I can handle things like fixing flooring and drywall). Is there a way to get an informal estimate on some of the issues to figure out if the cost of the house plus the cost of the repairs is within my budget or not? I'd like to be able to do this prior to making an offer - if I decide the headache is worth it - so that I can offer what the house would be worth without the many repairs needed. <Q> Take a walk through with the home inspector and see what he says. <S> The contractor should be able to give you a good estimate on what it will cost to fix any issues, he may also give you some price breaks if you are willing to let him handle all the work. <S> Just make sure you are comfortable with the contractor before you ask them to go on the walk through, they might be upset if they take time to walk through with you <S> and then you find a new contractor to do the work. <S> Keep in mind, however, that if the contractor starts work and does a sub-par job, you can always fire him and find a new contractor. <A> When looking for a home inspector you could try to find one who is knowlegable about renovation/remodeling that may be able to give you ballpark figures. <S> Another option would be to have a good general contractor walk through with you and give you an general estimate. <S> Personally my major concern is the last point regarding the settlement cracks, it sounds like a potential foundation problem which would be no fun at all. <S> The electrical is probably ancient knob and tube and has been overloaded over the years as electrical demand has increased. <S> Is there a new breaker box or fuses? <S> Even if it is a breaker box you still proabably have lots of old k&t. <S> This can be a real pain to replace without punching lots of holes in the walls/ceiling. <S> The basement probably has water coming in. <S> Not a uncommon at all <S> , there are lots of companies that will waterproof it for you. <S> or if you want to finish the basement. <A> Ask your realtor for recommendations for home inspectors, then avoid calling those individuals. <S> (Realtors want to make a sale.) <S> Call around and find an experienced home inspector and a structural engineer. <S> If you're concerned about electrical and plumbing, you might want to bring in a tradesman if you're not satisfied with the inspection report.
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If you are still interested in the house, find a good general contractor (that you trust) and take him on a walk through. Personally I get it water proofed from the outside if you don't want to deal with the water in there
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Is an interior laundry room without an HVAC vent a code violation? Currently looking at a home which has a nice 2nd floor laundry. Vented dryer, nice rack for hanging clothes, etc. However, it's in the center of the home and does not contain an HVAC (central air) vent. It does have a vent for the dryer. Is this a "code" problem or just poor design? I'm concerned that clothes may not dry properly without air circulation when hanging...and also in the dryer for that matter. <Q> Pretty much every local regulating body has their own alterations. <S> If you really do care about being in compliance, check with your local Building Inspector or appropriate department. <S> The Internet is NEVER the place for the correct answer to "is this code-compliant?" <S> , unless you include your municipal web site. <A> I don't think it is a code violation or my garage laundry room in Florida would not be in compliance :) <S> [it is not air conditioned]. <S> I am pretty certain you only have to air condition living areas. <A> This is a code problem. <S> You also have the issue with the hot, humid air ( MOLD? ) and the lint ( FIRE DANGER ). <S> Or did I mis-read this - is there a vent but just no central air vent? <A> HVAC vent is a no <S> , you don't want laundry room exhaust moving throughout the entire home. <A> I'd say, "No, an exhaust vent is not required." <S> The Code (IBC Section 1201.1) says spaces shall be ventilated by "either active or passive" means. <S> However, you could argue that operable windows in the rest of the house could be "passive ventilation" for this interior space. <S> (Weak, but acceptable.) <S> The code (IBC Section 1204.1) says space heating is required, except where the "purpose of the space is not associated with comfort. <S> " I'd say the purpose of a laundry room is not comfort. <A> One reason you might not want one is mold. <S> Warm, humid room with a potentially cold vent. <S> When I sold my house, recently, the inspector listed the vent in the laundry room for replacement. <S> Upon removing it, it was totally coated with black. <S> If I had known, I would have cleaned it long before, but since we were selling, we obliged in replacing it (new vents are cheap). <A> I'd say no! <S> No vent needed especially in the middle of the house. <S> I keep ours closed off and even place a laundry basket on it because the dryer is sucking all the air out of the room and sending it all outside this <S> is air i paid for to condition. <S> Passive venting will take place under the door anyhow.
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A washer and dryer vent to move their exhaust out of the house, yes. Therefore, it's just bad design, not a code violation. Although most are based on the National Building Code, code should always be assumed to be local. You can put a ceiling fan in pretty easily.
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How do I keep my outdoor trash cans from blowing away in the wind? I have two trash cans that sit on the side of my house. What can I do to keep them from blowing away due to the wind, when they are empty? I've tried bungee cording them together but they then just blow away as a couple. I have concrete block so I thought I could maybe attach hooks and use bungee cords to secure them to the house. <Q> I've seen some houses near me have a sort of cage for them -- looks like a little fenced-off area on the side of the house, with the trash cans in there, and can swing open in front to get the trash cans out. <S> If it's really windy, you might need to add a top to it, so the trash cans can't lift out in high winds. <A> (Other than duct tape.) <S> Just make sure they'll be rust-resistant. <A> We used to get excellent results on this same problem by using cinder blocks. <S> I'd just leave them around the garbage cans like a border, and wedge the cans inside them. <S> It works surprisingly well, and it's simple, requiring no construction. <A> Since you already have the bungie cords you could put up a post (wood, metal) in between them attached to a heavy block on the ground, put a hook/D-Ring near the top, and then wrap the bungie cord around each can attaching it to the post.
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Your idea of a bungee cording the trash cans to the side of the house might be the easiest option. You could try a set of D-rings and concrete screws for that.
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Does a homeowner need a permit for electrical work in Massachusetts? Does a homeowner need to obtain a permit from the town in order to do electrical work on his own house in Massachusetts? The unofficial answers I can find online (e.g., this forum and the websites of various towns) are all over the place, and apparently the answers one gets when calling town wiring inspectors also varies, so I am looking for an authorative source . There are examples of towns saying that only licensed electricians can do wiring work (e.g., Stoneham and Wayland ), but also many towns that say the opposite and issue permits to homeowners (e.g., Greenfield , Carlisle , and Marion ), so I don't consider town web pages authorative. M.G.L. ch. 143 §3L says that “No person shall install for hire any electrical wiring or fixtures subject to this section without … giving notice to the inspector of wires … by mailing or delivering a permit application form …”. This seems to indicate that electrical work that is not for hire does not need a permit, but I don't know if it's the whole story. The final paragraph of the same section of the law says that “Any person installing for hire electrical wiring or fixtures subject to this section shall notify the inspector of wires in writing upon the completion of the work. The inspector of wires shall, within five days of such notification, give written notice of his approval or disapproval of said work.” Again limited to work for hire. (In order to avoid localizing this question further, let's ignore the fact that individual towns may have stricter rules. And it's obviously dangerous for a homeowner to do electrical work he is not qualified for, so many of us should hire an electrician for everything except the simplest work.) <Q> The best (and possibly only) way to know if you need a permit, is to contact your local building department. <S> Most folks at the building department are happy to answer such questions for homeowners, and are often willing to provide details and documents to help homeowners complete home improvement projects safely. <A> I called the building commissioner in the town of Maynard, MA. <S> He said that by state law, homeowners are entitled to do their own electrical work. <S> However, the state's Division of Professional Licensure has instructed his inspectors not to issue permits, except to licensed electricians. <A> Its going to vary by jurisdiction, but keep in mind that those laws are there in a state like Massachusetts because the local unions demand it. <S> It will be a cold day in hell before I pay one of the 12 licensed plumbers/electricians in my local jurisdiction $500 (the going rate) for a trivial task like installation of a toilet or a ceiling fan. <S> The fine is the same as the exorbitant free. <A> Well, you encouraged me to do some legwork. <S> From http://www.ci.stoneham.ma.us/pages/stonehamma_building/faq#work : <S> State law requires anyone performing electrical, plumbing or gas work to be licensed. <S> More authoritatively but less clearly, from <S> this Word doc on mass.gov ,the row under "Wiring" says "By licensed trades only." and "Bldg. <S> Permit? <S> yes" <A> I think the problem here is not whether you need a permit or not(it's a good idea to have one plus inspection, especially for someone whoe doesn't do electrical all the time), but if homeowner can even obtain one. <S> I have also researched this topic online and found pretty much the same range of differing opinions. <S> Some say "yes", some say "no" and the MGL is pretty vague. <S> However, it seems that few people that were really determined to get a permit, were able to get one even though their town inpsector gave them hard time. <S> I thing one guy was able to solve it by going to his town selectmen, for example. <S> Another way would be to find an electrician(preferably a family friend) who will pull the permit for you and maybe take a look at your work. <S> That might not be entirely legal, but is sure better then doing work without any permits at all. <S> Overall, those laws are total BS in my opinion. <S> The point of the permits and inspections should be safety. <S> Home wiring is not rocket science and NEC is not some sort of ancient philosophical scripture that is open to interpretation by a shaman with electrician's license. <S> It has a set of very clear and discrete rules that anyone with half brain can understand and follow. <S> The current law only encourages homeowners to perform work without any inspection at all ir hire cheap handyman-hacks, because real electricians charge astronomical sums of money. <A> From the point of view of an actual Electrical Inspector in MA, who is NOT allowed to accept an Application for Permit to Perform Electrical Work from an unlicensed party; check with your insurance company. <S> They will gladly cancel your insurance as soon as they find out you have done something in your own home that they claim is not per today's Codes. <S> That being said, would I inspect your homeowner wiring for you to make sure it is safe? <S> Absolutely
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As a result, homeowners can legally do their own electrical work, but the work will not be inspected by the town.
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Should I remove old linoleum when replacing a linoleum floor? I'm planning to replace the linoleum floor in my kitchen in the next few months. According to a friend, I do not need to remove the existing linoleum and can just lay down new flooring on top. However, this just strikes me as wrong. So, should I remove the existing linoleum or not? Not sure if it matters, but I'm considering bamboo, cork tiles, or marmoleum as the replacement. <Q> No reason other than I like to start fresh when remodeling, and I don't feel like I did a good job unless I do. <A> Removing old linoleum flooring is difficult to do and as long as the current linoleum is flat and level then you should be fine laying a new surface on top of it. <S> With that said though, when I remodeled my bathroom <S> I did remove the old linoleum to put a new tile floor down. <S> I actually found removing the linoleum fairly easy as I was able to peel most of it up in a single sheet <S> and then I just scraped the remaining loose adhesive off the floor before putting down the backer board. <S> (But I am not sure this would be the typical linoleum floor removal experience... <S> maybe my linoleum floor was not properly installed originally.) <S> If you are going to keep your current linoleum down, the biggest thing to watch out for is that the new flooring will add height and could affect the thresholds and/or appliances. <S> In the case of my bathroom remodel above, it is a good thing I did remove the old linoleum because the new tile floor is just at the level of the threshold. <S> If the linoleum was there then I would have needed to raise the threshold. <S> Many flooring choices can be laid directly over your old vinyl flooring, as long as it is flat and even. <S> Keep in mind that anything <S> you add to the floors on top of your old flooring <S> will make the thresholds that much higher too; it can also impact any appliances that fit under the counter, like your dishwasher. <S> You will want to consider this before you do too much work. <S> You may find that the height change may cause a tripping hazard. <S> Reference: <S> http://www.theflooringlady.com/removing_vinyl_flooring_000805.html <A> I am a professional floor covering installer with 30 years of experience. <S> I have 18 employees, and do all commercial work. <S> I am a Forbo Master Mechanic. <S> And the list goes on. <S> Almost all manufacturers state that you must install any new floor on a properly prepared substrate directly for your new floor to be covered under any warranty. <S> In California it is against the law to install a 3rd layer of flooring. <S> The problem is you don't know where your weak link exists, and your new floor will most likely fail. <S> All new floors will create stress in time, and pretty quick too. <S> That being said you will have quite bit of stress in the form of shear. <S> The adhesive you will most likely use will have enough strength to hold against shear, but at least one of the layers below will not. <S> So my professional advice is don't do it. <S> As a professional this is a job I would walk away from, If I could not remove the existing material because a customer wanted to save money. <S> As far as Asbestos being present in any of the layers is concerned, there is a high likelihood. <S> All 9 inch resilient tile has Asbestos in it. <S> Most resilient sheet goods do not. <S> No Linoleum has ever been manufactured with asbestos, and the two main ingredients in linoleum is actually Linseed oil, and Cork flower. <S> That being said though, many of the mastics used prior to 1984 a percentage of chrysolite Asbestos material. <S> Black mastic is a big red flag and needs to be sampled and tested from any structure built before 1984. <S> This information is in the Code of Federal Regulations 1910. <S> and it is also true if you are removing any painted surface i.e. baseboards due to the presence of Lead in older paint. <A> In some cases (such as mine), you'll find that the old stuff isn't glued down properly, forcing you to remove it when you otherwise could have gone over top... <A> If you prep your surface first (clean it thoroughly), and it is mostly intact (especially at the edges) <S> you should have no problems laying new rigid flooring over top. <S> I have heard of kitchen remodels where they find 4-5 layers of linoleum! <S> You do have to account for the increased thickness with cabinets and appliances. <A> I removed my bathroom linoleum in my old house and was left with the black tar paper stuff stuck really good to the floor. <S> After using water and a heat gun on parts of it, I discovered a trick and am excited to share. <S> I used a wallpaper scoring tool called Tiger and ran it all over the black paper. <S> I then put an old towel on top of it and poured very hot water with a little blue Dawn added to it all over the towel. <S> I covered it with a sheet of plastic and left it for several hours. <S> I was amazed that the paper scraped off with a 3" putty knife in huge pieces! <S> Not little bits almost on fire from the heat gun. <S> I know you will all say that it's probably asbestos but being wet definitely kept it from getting the air. <S> Hope this will help someone! <S> Update:I did the above proceedure on a large area and left it overnight. <S> The whole thing lifted up in one piece! <A> Remove the old layers. <S> Rolling a heavy appliance (refrigerator) over the flooring can leave tracks (dented lines). <S> This can be exaggerated with multiple layers. <S> The tracks on my floor prove this.
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If it were me I would remove it.
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How do I fix flattened carpet pile? Can I prevent this from happening? As is often the case when replacing furniture, I've just bought a new sofa, but the old one has left "footprints" where the carpet pile has been squashed under the feet of the old one. Is there anything that can be done to make the old footprints blend in? Similarly, is there anything I can do to prevent this in the future? <Q> Lay a very damp, but not dripping, heavy towel over the mark, then iron it with a regular clothes iron on high heat. <S> Go over it for a few minutes until it's good and steamy. <S> Then remove the towel and brush the carpet with a stiff brush, against the direction in which the fibers are lying down. <A> I have heard about putting an ice cube in the indentation and letting it melt will help raise the fibers. <S> I did try this once and while it did seem to loosen up the carpet, I still had to comb out the indentation a little. <A> Two options spring to mind: Rearrange your furniture regularly. <S> This will cause flattening elsewhere, but give the original area time to "recover". <S> If you don't want to do this make sure you move the sofa when you vacuum. <S> The suction should help the pile lift a little bit (but it's not a complete solution). <S> If it's square do it 90° at time, <S> if not 180° will have to do. <S> Again it spreads the flattening out and gives the previously affected areas time to recover.
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Try to get them raised as much as possible and then let it dry. If it's not a fitted carpet rotate it every so often.
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Kind of contractor to hire to install new basement window, where there was none before? A family member is interested in getting their basement finished, and one of the things they'd like to do is have an additional bedroom in the basement. The bedroom should have a window. However, the basement doesn't have a window in the area most desired for the bedroom location. What kind of contractor should be hired to install a new basement window where there wasn't one before? i.e. this is not replacing a window, but creating one where there used to be concrete, brick, etc. The window people spoken to supply and install windows but won't do the harder parts. It sounds like foundation-related work to me, but it's not installing or repairing foundation, rather modifying some foundation, removing bricks, installing a lintel, a window well, correct drainage? Essentially, we're not sure where to start looking in the phone book! Foundation people? Brick people? Other? <Q> I would start with Architect or Structural Engineer because for that kind of work you're going to need permits, which means detailed drawings for the applications. <S> They would probably have recommendations for a General Contractor that would be able to do the job (with or without subcontractors). <A> What you're talking about is an egress window. <S> We had one of those put in by a general contractor. <S> He had to cut a notch into the concrete foundation to install the window, and move some pipes that were in the way. <S> He knew what to do <S> and it turned out great. <A> They will find the right people to do the job. <S> If you don't do this, then essentially you are trying to be the general contractor yourself. <S> You can save some money that way, but if you don't know what you are doing, that savings will be an illusion.
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I'd just talk to a good general contractor that is willing to take on the project.
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Is it possible to install pocket doors in the cavity of an external wall? Is it possible to install pocket doors in the cavity of an external wall, it will be an internal door as it's between a room and a conservatory. The cavity does have foam in it though. <Q> <A> I don't think it's likely to meet building code requirements in the US, if you care about that. <S> In particular, I would be concerned about both its fire resistance when closed, and the ease (or lack thereof) of opening it during an emergency situation. <S> If you're concerned about clearance and hence don't want a door that will swing into either adjacent room, would it be possible to use a sliding glass door instead? <S> Those are familiar to inspectors/installers and you ought to be able to find one that's well insulated and which will fit in the same size opening as your proposed pocket door, taking into account the dead space where the pocket door sits when open. <A> I've never seen a pocket door in an exterior wall, but there are the "barn door" style sliding doors that might be able to be used, if you don't mind the fact that you wall they slide against can't have things hung on it, and there's exposed hardware. <S> I have no idea how well they'd seal (and that may not be an issue, as yours sounds to be a former external wall), <S> but with the way they're hung, you'd have the opportunity to use a much thicker and heavier door. <S> You could also go with @gbroiles' comment, and then frame in the stationary side of the sliding glass door to make it look more like a pocket door. <S> (and possibly paint the glass door, or put something onto it, so it looked less modern, if it's an architectural issue)
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One thing that comes to mind is that the pocket would not be very well insulated and so you might have heating/cooling issues with that wall (depending on how the conservatory is used).
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Storing latex paint in hot garage? How well does latex interior paint hold up to being stored in a hot garage over time? I did some painting several months ago, and without thinking too much about it kept the leftover paint in the garage. Outside temperatures sometimes reach 90+. Should I worry about the color changing, etc.? Update: The paint color was indistinguishable from the original. In fact, I have used the same paint again more than a year later. <Q> The final color of the paint depends on the ratios of the different pigments in the paint, and those ratios won't change once the paint is mixed. <S> The storage instructions on all the interior paints that I have say nothing about high temperatures, just to protect from freezing which I believe would cause the paint to de-emulsify. <S> That said, a paint can's lid doesn't form a perfect seal, and higher temperatures are going to cause volatile chemicals (including water) in the paint to evaporate faster than normal. <S> (I've noticed that paint that has been left open for a while and thinned with water behaves differently than a can of fresh paint -- I can't define exactly how , but it just doesn't paint as well). <A> I just went to touch up some patch work that I had done on my walls and encountered the most horrid stench when I opened the can (imagine a mixture of rotten eggs and wet paint smell). <S> I decided not to use the paint for fear that it would make my house smell the same way. <S> The color looked fine, and the paint mixed up well, although it was thicker than regular paint. <S> For the record, it was Behr interior eggshell paint that had been stored in my garage for 13 months. <S> I had sealed the can by thoroughly hammering all the way around the edge. <A> My dark red paint that I used on our front door has turned into a runny majenta mess on top of a solid wad or clump of hard paint paint below. <S> I don't think any amount of stirring will save it. :( <S> This from storing about 1 year in a sometimes hot, sometimes cold garage.
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However, given that it can take weeks for a coat of paint to cure fully under normal household conditions, if the can is sealed well, my SWAG is that it would take years before you'd notice a change in the paint.
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Is there any reason to be wary of vinyl windows? Consumer reports "buying guide" for replacement windows recommends fiberglass or wood windows over vinyl. I've also heard from various sources that some vinyl windows can warp with expansion and contraction over time. I'm wondering if I should avoid vinyl replacement windows in general? Do people's bad experiences with vinyl stem from the cheaper end of the spectrum? Do quality brands of vinyl windows exist? There seems to be a lot of potential propaganda/fear-mongering/crazyness about vinyl windows on the Interwebs. For example here . These websites make my bs detector go off... It seems hard to find a non biased opinion on the subject. <Q> There's an issue to be concerned about in high-crime areas -- they're plastic, so they can melt. <S> Someone interested in breaking into your place can take a torch, heat up the frame of the window, and push the window or the whole sash in. <S> Some vinyl windows aren't all vinyl, and have an aluminum or steel core, that might reduce this from being able to happen. <S> A south or west facing window in a hot climate might heat up enough through the day that it'll warp. <S> This is even worse in dry areas with large high/low shifts each day. <S> In colder climates, vinyl becomes brittle, which means if you're in a windy area with gets a lot of blowing wind, you could get debris thrown into the window which can crack the whole frame; and unlike other construction, you can't just replace the glass, you have to replace the whole sash. <S> Vinyl on its own isn't all that strong <S> -- so there's a lot of vinyl involved -- if you're trying to get a lot of light into a room, you'll be able to get more glass into the area with just about any other material. <S> You also can't paint them easily. <S> Whatever color they are, that's what they're going to be unless you replace 'em. <S> This isn't typically a concern for most people, though, as most vinyl windows are white -- but they'll slowly yellow over the years, depending on the exact mix of vinyl. <S> This is more pronounced in areas with higher UV indexes. <S> (eg, high elevations with no shade trees) Vinyl also outgasses. <S> If you've got someone in the family who's sensitive to chemicals, this could be an issue. <S> ... <S> That's not to say that there aren't different qualities of vinyl windows, but don't just buy on price -- look at internal metal stiffening, if it's welded or screwed together (you want welded), if it's fully encased in the vinyl <S> (so it won't oxidize), and there's certifications now for vinyl windows ... <S> but I think it's an industry effort, so I don't know for sure how reliable it is. <A> The benefits of vinyl (or uPVC as they're called in the UK) is that they require less maintenance than wooden windows. <S> However, a properly maintained wooden window will outlast a uPVC window <S> - it's just harder and more time consuming (sanding, painting etc.) <S> to to. <S> I have heard stories of uPVC frames that were made without a metal (usually aluminium) <S> core - which would warp badly - <S> but I've no evidence to hand. <A> Buy quality, name brand windows. <S> The previous owners of my house installed vinyl windows in 2002. <S> They are all breaking in one form or another. <S> Either from warping, broken tilt-in latches leaking seals, or any of about a half dozen other issues. <S> An extra $50 a window would have gotten Andersen, Pella or Marvin windows with 10-15 year warranties that would still be working great.
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Also, vinyl isn't good for high-heat areas. As with anything, quality counts.
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What are my options for replacing 50W GU10 lightbulbs? I've been looking at replacing 50W GU10 halogen lightbulbs for something more energy efficient. Some people say that LEDs cannot give you the same light (even 10W LEDs), and to use 11W CFL instead, like the ones from megaman. I need these light bulbs for both my kitchen and my living room, so I don't want to be surprised by way dimmer light bulbs. What's the current state of this? <Q> I use myself both GU10 and MR16 bi-pin (low voltage) <S> LED replacements for what should be Halogen bulbs. <S> If you need the amount of light that you get now from the 50W bulbs, then no. <S> This will not cut it. <S> But do you? <S> I have 6 GU10, 3W each LED that go on a fixture designed for 6 35W Halogen. <S> For dinner, that is all I need. <S> Yes, it is on the romantic side, but since you have 6, you can point 3 at the table and 3 at the walls around <S> and you have both decent task light and ambient light. <S> Add to that <S> the fact that there is the option (almost always)to add more ambient light (add the 3 LED above the bar next to the dining table, or the 2 wall lights in the hall next to it) and you are just fine. <S> In my kitchen, I have 12W LED recessed lights which replace 65W equivalent <S> and they give PLENTY of light. <S> you can do brain surgery under that light... <S> So really, people give LED bad rap. <S> They do great job if you get the right light for the right setting and make sure to get the right amount of Lumens. <S> The W per Lumen ratio is great, and light quality is great. <S> It only fails when people don't realize that the things they buy, even though it should be clear based on the data on the package, are too weak to replace the incandescent bulb. <S> a 3W LED cannot replace <S> a 50W Halogen is the short answer, but LED CAN replace Halogen if you plan it right. <A> I've installed MR16 LEDs in track lighting in my kitchen and like them a lot. <S> The color quality is great,and of course the power consumption is substantially lower than the old halogens. <S> The key to upgrading your lighting from incandescents is to look at the lumens rating. <S> Wattage is a very poor indicator of light output, particularly with LEDs that are continuing to increase in efficiency. <S> Even the "watt equivalent" rating is silly and not that accurate. <S> Check the lumens output of your current bulb, and then buy an LED (or CFL) with a similar output, preferably using as few watts as possible. <S> All light bulbs currently sold in the US have the lumens and watts prominently marked. <S> You can also compare the color of the light, if that's something that matters to you. <S> Color is usually measured in "degrees Kelvin", ranging from about 2500 (yellow) to 5000 <S> + (daylight / bright blue). <A> I've found some low energy equivalents on Amazon <S> (UK site). <S> 6 GU10 Lectrolite branded <S> 11w = <S> 50w Low energy saving warm white light spotlamp bulbs. <S> I've no idea how good they are, but a search for "GU10 low energy" turned up some other choices too. <S> If you can find them at a local hardware store they might have some on show (though if it's a DIY barn it's hard to get the true effect of the light). <A> I have installed 11w megamans in my dining room. <S> They take about 3-4 minutes to reach full brightness and the light is different to halogens. <S> That said, I like them a lot and they are plenty bright enough. <S> However, I decided to get some 4w LED lights in to, since I had gone to the trouble of replacing the transformers and mr16 fittings with GU10 240v connectors and it would be easy to swap and see. <S> The 4w LEDs are just as bright as the 11w megamans but, using "warm white", they colour is closer to the old halogens. <S> I got the megamans for £11 each and the LEDs (brightlightz.co.uk) for less than £10 each. <A> I tried the LEDs, the look is precisely like a Bulgarian chip-shop. <S> Ugh! <S> That's a technology that will take a few more years to sort itself out: fine for those solar-powered lights they give away in garages, but not for indoor use just yet. <S> The Megaman CFLs have a nice, gentle light but take a while to warm up. <S> They're also quite deep (roughly three times the depth of a halogen GU10) so won't work in every fitting. <S> I don't think they'd work well with dimmer switches either. <S> In the end I've been gradually replacing my 50W bulbs with 35W ones, without really noticing the reduction in light. <S> But, perhaps I put too many in to start with?
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The main difference seems to be that the CFL megamans are a slightly whiter warm white and diffuse and the LEDs are much more focussed beams (even though they are "wide beam") and warmer yellowish.
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How do I hang a chair from a concrete ceiling using a single hook? I'm putting in a "hanging chair" in the basement and it's supposed to hang from a single hook in the ceiling. The ceiling is reinforced concrete. Now, I'm about 125 kilograms (275 lbs) so I reckon the hook should easily be able to bear twice that for safety. Is that a good enough margin? What would be the easiest and best way to mount a hook in the ceiling that will hold about 250 kgs (550 lbs)? <Q> Your margin of error sounds a bit low - one thing to bear in mind is that while the static force of you in the chair is half the rating of the hook, the peak force will be higher as you "drop" into the chair. <S> If you can get a bigger hook it might be worth it. <S> If you have a hook on a plate then you'll spread the load across more bolts thus each one won't have to bear the full weight. <A> I'd recommend a concrete epoxy for this application. <S> It's expensive at $19 but is stronger than a mechanical anchor, and you can sink a standard eye bolt in there for a nice clean look. <S> I'd recommend a heavy 1/2" one perhaps up to 6" long, but if the ceiling is thick enough you could bury most of it in your hole so just the eye is exposed. <A> I know that mechanical anchors are mentioned, however i would have simply used a rawl-bolt of sufficient diameter for the task. <A> Have you thought about using a chair stand.... <S> If you are going to drill into a concrete ceiling; The weakest part of the ceiling is the center point, where gravity is at its greatest. <S> Avoid placing hooks at this point. <S> Position them as close to the supporting walls as possible. <S> Drilling holes in a concrete ceiling will probably not cause structural problems but adding weight via a hook might. <S> Keep in mind, there is probably rebar in the concrete. <S> If you run into this you will need a Rebar Cutting Drill Bit . <A> There are various sizes and weight loads. <S> The U-bolt is welded to the plate and load limits, based on size can vary from 500 lbs. <S> to 2000 lbs.
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This would be dependent on the quality/strength of the concrete. Try a marine supply store like West Marine for a stainless steel "u-bolt" or galvanized "dock ring" on a 2, 3, or 4 hole base plate.
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What is a cheap patio solution for a muddy area in my backyard? I have an area just at the end of my current patio that I have tried to grow grass in for a few years with no luck. The area is heavily shaded, it is between two large maples. Plus I have two large dogs that don't help matters. No matter what it always reverts back to a few bits of grass and very sandy/dry soil...yes I have put topsoil down when seeding. If I could grow crab grass there I would. I just want something to make it less muddy when it rains. The area is fairly large so using normal pavers would cost a fortune. Money I don't have. Does any one have any other idea's? Spaced pavers with something inbetween? poured concrete sections? Crab grass seeds? <Q> What about putting down sod to give the area a jump start? <A> You could make a path with crushed rock or stones (maybe crushed rock in between) and surround the path with a cheaper ground cover like pine straw/mulch where you could eventually put plants. <S> This way you allow access to where the area leads and avoid having to cover everything with the expensive stuff. <A> You could make your own pavers . <A> Courtesy of This Old House magazine, pour a concrete pad, carve patterns in it and paint it . <A> The problem is, if you just add an extension to the patio, it just becomes more paved ground. <S> I suppose you could just pave your entire yard... <S> Hey, that would eliminate the mowing! <S> I'd also point out that many dogs seem not to love crushed rock under their feet. <S> I know ours does not, and our last dog also seemed to shy away from those areas too. <S> And smaller crushed stone seems to get dragged into the house too easily, scratching up floors. <S> So my thoughts would go to mulch, if the area is too shady to grow anything. <S> Yes, there are plants that thrive in shady areas, so that is an option. <S> It depends on your goals for the area, and how large are your dogs. <S> Large dogs can be an issue with plants, as large quantities of urine tends to burn plants. <S> Mulch is inexpensive and easy to put down. <S> You might choose to put a ground cloth under the mulch, to inhibit weeds coming through.
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In the end, I'd be looking to put down a thick bed of mulch there.
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Is it ok to have mixed grounds and neutrals on bars in a breaker box? So to continue my line of electrical questioning (and perhaps narrow down my flickering light problem ), I took a look through the two panels in this house. There is a 200amp main service in the basement, which then feeds up to a 100amp sub-panel for the main floor. This 100amp sub feeds a kitchen (fridge, microwave, dishwasher, gas range), a bathroom, 3 bedrooms, and a living room. The 200amp main feeds the 100amp sub, 2 bedrooms, a living room, a washer/dryer (gas dryer), a utility room (well pump, pressure tank, gas water heater, gas furnace), and an A/C. My first concern is that the main service panel has the bare ground and neutral wires mixed on the two bus bars. Reading around, some say this is OK, other's say it is bad. Any thoughts? The sub-panel is wired with grounds and neutrals on separate bars. My second concern- is a 100amp sub sufficient for the main floor? <Q> The wiring issue is not a matter of pride, neatness or whatever... it's a safety issue . <S> :) <S> At the service panel <S> (ONLY AT THE SERVICE PANEL - HUGELY IMPORTANT) <S> the neutral bus bar is bonded to ground. <S> You should see the ground lead and neutral tied to the same bus (the neutral bus bar). <S> Based on your description, it sounds like your panels are wired correctly. <S> It just doesn't "look right" based on how the other panel is made up. <S> I can completely understand how this can seem incorrect from a common sense perspective. <S> However, any sub-panel after the primary service from there MUST have an isolated neutral. <S> DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT bond neutral to ground in a sub-panel. <S> Why is this? <S> When you tie neutral to earth ground in a subpanel, you create a potential parallel path for current to return via earth (ground). <S> In the event of a fault, your ground conductor has assumed the role of the return path for current and now everything that you've grounded (sub-panel, appliances, metal fixtures, etc) to that sub-panel is now hot. <S> All it takes is a preexisting fault, one rainstorm, or wet feet, <S> whatever... <S> and you touching something energized - and you're doing the 60 cycle shuffle. <A> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Article 250 Grounding and Bonding II. <S> System Grounding <S> 250.24 Grounding Service-Supplied Alternating-Current Systems. <S> (A) System Grounding Connections. <S> A premises wiring system supplied by a grounded ac service shall have a grounding electrode conductor connected to the grounded service conductor, at each service, in accordance with 250.24(A)(1) through (A)(5). <S> (1) General. <S> The grounding electrode conductor connection shall be made at any accessible point from the load end of the overhead service conductors, service drop, underground service conductors, or service lateral to and including the terminal or bus to which the grounded service conductor is connected at the service disconnecting means. <S> This means that the grounded (neutral) from the service must be connected to ground, and that the connection can be made by bonding the neutral bus bar to the grounding electrode. <S> (5) Load-Side Grounding Connections. <S> A grounded conductor shall not be connected to normally non–current carrying metal parts of equipment, to equipment grounding conductor(s), or be reconnected to ground on the load side of the service disconnecting means except as otherwise permitted in this article. <S> This means that the grounded (neutral) conductors should only be grounded at the main service disconnnect. <S> If the two bus bars are not connected; as would be the case anywhere other than the main disconnect ( exceptions exist ), then you cannot mix them. <S> Notice <S> how the grounded, and grounding bus bars are connected in the main service panel. <S> This means that; electrically speaking, they can be considered a single bus bar. <S> Which means that both grounded (neutral), and equipment grounding conductors can be terminated on either bus bar. <S> In the subpanel, the bus bars are kept separate. <S> So grounded (neutral), and equipment grounding conductors cannot be mixed. <A> You can just use whichever bus is easier to get to in the main panel since they are wired together, either with a large wire, or they can be physically the same piece of metal. <S> That being said, any electrician who take pride in their work will make sure that all of the neutrals run to one bus-bar, and the grounds the other. <S> Also it makes it so that later down the line, you can add a new panel as the main one, using the old main panel as a sub-panel without a lot of rewiring.
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If the main service panel happens to be the same place that the grounded (neutral) conductor is bonded to the grounding electrode, then there is no problem mixing grounds and neutrals on the same bus bar (as long as there is an appropriate number of conductors terminated under each lug).
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How best can I discover what is up with my electrical bill? This might be subjective, I don't know. However, it's a serious problem for me. My electrical bill is outrageous. It's three times as large as my next-door neighbor, and four or five times the size of my neighbor's across the street. It's worse in the summer (I live in central TX), but I've had the air conditioner inspected, and while the house is right at the maximum capacity for our unit, the unit should still be able to take care of the load. That also doesn't explain why our winter bills are larger than the comparables. What I would like to do is check the amount of current drawn by each running appliance and calculate where all my money is going. I just don't know how to go about doing this. <Q> For devices that plug into an electrical outlet, you can use Kill-a <S> -Watt or equivalent to monitor how much electricity they're using. <S> If that doesn't give you a clear culprit, one low-tech method is to look at the electric meter as you turn off circuits at the service panel one at a time until you see a big change in speed at which the wheel is spinning (for older meters) or the digits are changing (newer meters). <S> If you can narrow down what's using a lot of electricity, you can look at devices one at a time on that circuit to see if one is using more than its fair share. <A> You could invest in a clamp on Ammeter like this <S> Also as Mike Powell pointed out, you could clamp on to the main lines and then turn off each breaker noting how much the value drops. <S> (You will have to do this for each leg of the main). <S> Once you know which circuits are drawing the most power, you can start eliminating devices on that circuit until you find the largest consumers. <S> If you want you can figure out how much your devices cost to run like this. <S> Watts = <S> Amps <S> * Volts Kilowatts = <S> Watts/1000 <S> Kilowatt-hours = <S> kilowatts <S> * Hours used Cost = kilowatt-hours <S> * cost per kilowatt-hour Or Cost = <S> (((Amps * Volts)/1000) * Hours Used) <S> * Cost per Kilowatt <S> You could also do like I did and split an old extension cord <S> (so you can clamp on to a single wire), then plug one end into the wall, and your device into the other end. <S> Then you can measure the draw of just that device. <A> Turn off and unplug everything <S> and I do mean everything . <S> If the meter is still showing that you are using electricity the you have a fault with the meter <S> and you should report it to your utility company. <A> Depending upon how interested you are, there are several home energy monitors on the market, some of which are DIY installs. <S> It is a little box which interfaces with the meter (even the analog style), and monitors the usage in real time. <S> It integrates with Microsoft Hohm, and gives you real time statistics, recent usage history, fancy graphs, etc. <S> The other big contender is the TED 5000 . <S> This integrates with Google's competing service (PowerMeter). <S> This is pretty much the same story (statistics, history, graphs, etc.). <S> It is essentially an ammeter hooked up to the electric line coming in your house. <S> Because of this, it is more accurate than the Blueline. <S> The downside is that you have to open up the breaker box to install this (which may or may not be DIY for you). <S> Compared to the standalone ammeter (~$80), this is significantly more expensive (~$250). <S> However, the usage statistics over time may help you to reduce your overall electric usage once you have found and eliminated the main hog(s) in your house. <S> More reading: <S> Engadget Review of the Blueline - <S> With some comparisons to the TED5000. <A> One thing not addressed in your question is how many kW-hrs you are using compared to your neighbors. <S> You can't just compare on dollars. <S> In TX with the deregulated electrical industry, you could very easily be paying 2-3 times what your neighbors are paying per kW if you haven't checked it recently. <S> Last summer I switched companies to get from ~$0.19 to $0.092, while keeping the 100% renewable energy sources that I had before. <S> Go to www.powertochoose.org, a site set up by the TX Utility Commission, to compare rates. <A> Brultech has a solution that will show you how much each circuit uses. <S> You might need an electrician to install it. <S> It works like the ammeter but tracks usage over time. <A> I want to add/link an answer <S> I just gave today on another question: <S> https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/133721/82083 tl;dr: <S> In central europe it's very common that you can borrow power meters from your electricity company or from some environmental NGOs. <S> May/may not apply to your location. <A> All the other answers are correct, I just wanted to add that most meters read and charge for apparent power which is a combination of true power(the actual power the device is using to do useful work) and the reactive power (the power drawn when the device pushes against the true power).In well designed fully working circuits <S> the reactive power should be eliminated but if a compensating capacitor or choke coil is failing then the reactive power can double the apparent power and double your cost of running a particular device. <S> Unplugging or isolating certain circuits in turn and monitoring what is being used compared to what you expect to be used will show where the problem is.
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Then open up your electrical panel and measure the draw on each circuit, this will show you which circuits are drawing the most. The Blueline Powercost Monitor is a definite DIY install (for the most common meter types).
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What is the difference between Square D and QP single pole circuit breakers, and can they be mixed? I just noticed that all of the branches from my upstairs service box are run off of 15 or 20-amp type QP circuit breakers, except for one 15-amp line that is for the hard-wired smoke alarms- it uses a Square D type breaker. What is the difference between these two, and can they safely be mixed in a breaker box? <Q> Square D is another manufacturer of circuit breakers and service panels. <S> Ideally, you would want to have all your circuit breakers be manufactured by the same company that makes your service panel; the manufacturer will -- one hopes -- <S> certify that their breakers will work correctly in their panels. <S> Some manufacturers produce breakers with the same mechanical fit as others, in which case it would be up to that manufacturer to say if their breakers will work in a panel made by the other. <S> I'm assuming that the Square D breaker actually fits in the service panel, so to determine if it's OK, you'd have to do some research to see if Square D certifies their products to work with the panel, or if the panel's manufacturer does the same. <S> (Side note: per NEC2008, smoke detector circuits have to be protected with an AFCI if there's a detector in a bedroom. <S> This might explain why that circuit is different.) <A> Circuit breakers and panelboards, being as important for safety as they are, are tested extensively (UL 67 for panelboards, UL 489 for breakers) to ensure that they will function properly. <S> (Unless you were FPE, who decided to try to hoodwink UL instead...) <S> This testing includes making sure that the panelboard and breaker mate properly -- as thus, panelboards are listed to work with specific types of circuit breakers, as those are the types that have been tested under UL's watchful eyes and found to work satisfactorily. <S> While the various 1" breaker types are dimensionally similar to each other, the breaker-to-busbar attachment systems aren't quite the same. <S> This means that while an alien breaker might fit and appear to work at first, the breaker-to-busbar contact may be poor, leading to overheating, arcing, damage, and even fire. <S> But there are exceptions, and UL has a way to denote them <S> It is possible for a manufacturer to design, build, and test a breaker for use in alien panelboards. <S> These breakers are UL classified to reflect that UL actually saw the test results and said "these breakers are OK to fit into this other type of panelboard over there". <S> The documentation for UL classified breakers (Eaton and Square-D both make UL classified breakers for 1" slot panelboards, and I believe Eaton also has a classified replacement for the Square-D QO) lists which types of panelboards <S> a classified breaker has been tested and found to satisfactorily fit into. <A> If the circuit breaker goes in without having to pound it in, I would say that it is probably fine. <S> There are circuit breakers that are designed to go into more than one type of panel. <S> I know that Square D makes breakers that work in multiple breaker panels, including QP panels. <S> As long as there isn't a significant voltage drop across the breaker, don't worry about it. <S> I would go along and test the voltage drop across all of the breakers while you are at it. <S> That might give you an early warning of a faulty breaker. <A> There is no need to worry about who manufactured your breaker. <S> Siemens and SquareD are two of the larger manufacturers. <S> In fact there is likely to be no difference as long as both are labeled as type QP. <S> Your panel has a label on it which will tell you what type of breaker is required. <S> For instance mine tells me to use type C or BR. <S> The physical connection to the busbar is what the type ensures. <S> Poor contact with the busbar could result in fire, which is what a breaker is intended to prevent. <S> If you are not clear on how to do this you should hire a licensed electrician. <S> You do not want to burn down your house. <S> Incidentally, you may see other brand names at your local hardware store, Westinghouse, Eaton, and GE (General Electric) to name a few. <S> These are all manufacturers of breakers. <S> Again, the important thing is that the breaker matches the type listed on the panel label and that the amperage or current draw (expressed in Amps, A, or a number on the lever of the breaker) <S> matches the ampacity of the wire. <S> Typical Romex (wire) in residential construction is capable of handling 15A of current and must be paired with a 15A breaker (or smaller - but 15 is the typical size <S> - I don't even think there is a 10 or a 5 at most hardware stores). <S> Again, doing this wrong may equal fire/loss of property/serious injury/death. <S> If any of this hasn't frightened you into hiring an electrician, then read the part about death again. <S> It's not a trivial thing and finding one that "fits" is a recipe for disaster.
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Some research says that a QP circuit breaker is the 1" or 2" wide breakers that protect a 110V or 220V circuit respectively, and is made by Siemens. Breakers aren't normally meant to be mixed and matched...
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What is the best way to remove spray paint from a blacktop driveway? I have an area on my blacktop driveway that some kids thought needed some spray paint, what is the best way to remove it without damaging the blacktop? <Q> Black spray paint? <A> Anything you do to dissolve the paint or with a pressure washer will also remove some asphalt. <S> Rent one if necessary, BEFORE the paint has had time to harden is best. <S> Once that is done, however, you will still be left with an image of what you stripped off. <S> So I'd next take the opportunity to apply some blacktop sealer to the entire driveway. <S> Finally, ensure that the kids who did it will not repeat the action. <S> Their paying for the work will help in that respect. <S> If they are required to help do the repair itself, that would be best. <A> I'm betting that a pressure washer would remove it. <S> It might also remove the blacktop though. <S> It would also be very time consuming. <S> You might be better off using a solvent. <A> One web site recommends a combination of pressure washer, mineral spirit, and scrubbing with a wire brush.
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I'd vote for a good pressure washer, as tar can be messy stuff since it too will probably dissolve under the action of paint stripper.
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Small amounts of moss on asphalt shingles? What's the best way to remove moss from asphalt shingles? <Q> Moss is there for a reason. <S> It grows because there is moisture. <S> Typically overhanging tree limbs and shade are the problem. <S> You want to cut back the branches over the house so that your roof will get sufficient sunlight and airflow to dry out. <S> Once you do that, a good stiff push broom should be sufficient to scrub off the moss from those shingles. <S> Check for roof damage. <S> That moisture is a killer. <S> It is possible that you will need to replace shingles, or even the wood underneath. <S> You may also have venting problems, preventing the roof from properly drying out. <S> Finally, once you ensure that the roof can dry out, and remove the moss which helps to keep it moist, and replace/repair any problems, you can then add zinc strips to the top of your roof to help retard moss from returning. <S> The zinc leaches out gradually with rain, retarding new moss or algae from growing on your shingles. <S> Nothing will work unless you dry out the roof and keep it dry though. <A> Mechanically, just scrape it off, but you will need to do so carefully. <S> Work down the shingles starting at the fixed edge that way you won't potentially lift them. <S> You might want to look at why it's forming in the first place. <S> If the shingles are shaded and constantly damp these are ideal moss growing conditions. <S> Prune any overhanging trees and make sure any gutters are clear. <A> I've also used the Moss B Gone product, attach it to the hose and spray. <S> This is basically iron <S> and it kills the moss, if you have moisture problems I'd suggest doing it on a warm day <S> so it kills the moss then drys out fast. <S> This has worked out well on the moss in my yard and on the roof, got rid of it in a couple days using the hose, and no ladder needed.
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A piece of ply wood would do - it will give you a large edge to scrape the maximum amount of moss off, but won't be too sharp which will reduce the chance of it digging into to the shingles.
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Is it worth having two locks in exterior doors? I've noticed that some places have a lock in the knob and a deadbolt in the exterior doors, and some places have a knob without a lock and just a deadbolt. Is there a benefit to having a lock in the knob I'm missing? <Q> The lock in the knob can be set to be locked when the door is closed. <S> In other words, you do not have to do anything extra to lock the door, just pull it closed. <S> This can be good or bad depending on how you look at it (it can be easy to lock yourself out this way). <S> The dead bolt on the other hand always requires an extra step to lock the door (put the key in, lock it, and remove the key); this forces you to have a key in hand, preventing you from locking yourself out. <S> Depending on what you are doing/replacing, also check your local building codes. <S> Some types of deadbolts (the ones that require a key on both sides) may not be allowed in certain situations. <A> I agree with Jeff and Mike's answers, but you also have to make sure the lock was installed correctly. <S> When I bought my house and changed the locks, I found out that the strike plates installed (deadbolt and doorknob) on the front door were only screwed into the trim with 1/4" screws. <S> It wouldn't have taken much force at all to rip them right out. <S> (My guess is one well-aimed kick.) <S> The new Schlage locks that I bought came with 4" screws for mounting the deadbolt strike plate THROUGH the trim and into the studs behind the frame. <A> From a security point of view two locks is better than one. <S> Some insurance companies might require that you have a deadbolt type lock, offering reduced premiums if you have a recognised standard one fitted. <A> I completely agree that having more locks can be helpful but also keep in mind that the brand and model also play an important part. <S> AFAIK, some locks (including deadbolts) are still susceptible to bump-key techniques . <S> Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. <S> ;-) <S> -M <A> It's quite useful to have two locks in the door separating the house/apartment from the surrounding world but use just one of them. <S> Locks happen to break, although that's quite rare. <S> If one of the locks starts malfunctioning <S> you can just stop using it and use the other one until you fix the first one. <S> I once had such situation - I was trying to lock the apartment and noted that the lock mechanism was just twisted weirdly and the key would fit into it. <S> No problem, I found the key to the other lock, locked the other lock and went to the shop to buy a new mechanism. <A> Adding a separate deadbolt is definitely worthwhile unless you are in a VERY low-crime area... and even then, I'd suggest doing it on the principle of "if you're just a bit more secure than your neighbors, the burglar will bother them instead."
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Most key-in-knob locksets have some vulnerabilities that make them better as convenience latches than as serious security locks.
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How do I fix a "water hammer" problem? When I shut off a water faucet or right after the toilet tank refills after flushing, I hear a vibrating sound in my pipes. It last between one and two seconds. On the interwebs, I found out that it's called "water hammer" and that it can be fixed by draining my plumbing system: by shutting off the water main and opening up all the faucets and flushing all the toilets in the house. Well, I did that and it helped for two, maybe three days. What do I do next (other than call a professional)? <Q> This normally happens near quick-acting valves in your plumbing system, like those used in a clothes washing machine. <S> Those valves are opened by a solenoid and get slammed shut by water pressure, and all that water coming to such an abrupt stop can rattle already-loose pipes, cause them to become loose, or in the worst case damage them over time and cause leaks. <S> That's why water hammer arrestors are commonly installed near washing machine outlets <S> (it may be required by code, I'm not sure). <S> They look like this : <S> They work by maintaining a reservoir of air inside that vertical tube. <S> When the column of water is stopped abruptly by a valve, the air acts as a cushion, compressing so that the water can slow down more gradually and impart less inertial force to your pipes. <S> These are fairly easy to install even for someone with no plumbing experience. <S> I believe the one pictured is designed to be mounted inline with a sink or toilet connection, and they also make models with standard garden hose style threads for a washer connection. <S> You shouldn't need to install these at every fixture; one set (hot and cold) for each bathroom <S> /kitchen should be plenty. <S> If you're only noticing the banging sound in one area, it may be possible to open up the wall there and install some pipe clamps to keep things from moving around and making noise. <S> This would be a more difficult job than installing arrestors (but potentially cheaper if you do it yourself). <A> @Mike Powell <S> , That's a great answer if it is actually water hammer. <S> If it turns out to be the toilet valve that is causing the vibration then the valve will need to be replaced. <S> Take the lid off the toilet, then push down on the float until the water starts to fill the tank. <S> Then let go of the float. <S> Do you hear the vibration? <S> Do you hear any form of noise coming from the valve itself? <S> Or is the noise just in the pipes? <S> For the valves that have a float extended on a long steel rod, this float can gradually close the valve while the tank fills and cause a whining noise as the valve closes. <S> If there is loose piping in the walls, this flow "restriction" can case a vibration. <A> I had this problem. <S> My pipes started making a very loud banging. <S> I tried the drain the lines trick <S> but it didn't help. <S> I then put a water pressure gauge on my faucet and found my water pressure to be up over 100psi. <S> I followed the steps for reducing the water pressure on the water pressure reducing value but then noticed that after running the water for just a few seconds the pressure dropped to almost nothing. <S> I then replaced the water pressure reducing valve, which in my case was faster to actually replace <S> then it was to go buy. <S> Now I have no banging and constant pressure. <S> Moral of the story, go buy a $10 water pressure gauge and make sure your pressure isn't high. <S> I can't believe with my luck the pipes didn't break. <A> I had water hammer in bathroom commode. <S> Removed top and adjusted the screw to allow more water inside tank before float shut off water value. <S> Hammer sound stopped and tank filled quicker.
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Since your problem seems to occur on (relatively) slower-acting valves that shouldn't be generating an unacceptable amount of water hammer, you may also just have a section of pipe that's not mounted properly.
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How do I clean a very dirty refrigerator? I just got a new house and inherited a very moldy and mildewy refrigerator. My first though it to get some cleaning spray with bleach and just go to town, but I'm worried the bleach might damage the fridge in some way. It's close enough to an outside door that I could take it outside and hose it out as well. I'm wondering if others have had a similar situation and got good results with a particular set of cleaning products. <Q> There's a lot of good advice here on cleaning the inside of the fridge. <S> One thing I'd like to add: Don't forget to periodically clean the fridge's coils . <S> The coils are typically found underneath or on the back of the fridge, and are meant to dissipate the heat. <S> The coils will, over time, get blocked with dust etc. <S> and the fridge runs less efficiently as a result of such buildup. <S> Keep the coils free of dust <S> and you'll save money and extend the life of the fridge. <S> Use a vacuum with appropriate connectors, and be careful when moving the fridge, vacuuming the coils, etc. <S> Here's a good reference: How to Save Energy--Clean Your Fridge Coils <A> I've cleaned minor mold and mildew with Windex, but if it's that bad, do you really want to store your food in it? <S> Any harsh chemical cleaner may have a bad effect on any rubber/plastic seal, too, though using occasionally and not letting it sit minimizes the effect. <A> Just use vinegar and water. <A> Depending on where the fridge is (and if you can manage to get some friends to help you) you could take it out on the lawn or driveway, scrub the daylights out of it with bleach and water and then hose down the inside with the garden hose ... <S> that way the mess is outside and you can spray to your hearts content without dirtying up the kitchen (or room where it's located). <A> Here's my 0.02: <S> For starters, check with the refrigerator manufacturer for official cleaning instructions. <S> Some have explicit cleaning instructions/restrictions. <S> Try basic cleaning first <S> (a good how-to is available here: http://www.ehow.com/how_92_clean-refrigerator.html ). <S> Assuming that doesn't do the trick, you can try bleach but be careful. <S> Another good how-to is available here: <S> http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/2489239/how_to_clean_a_moldy_refrigerator.html <S> -M <A> When I moved into our "new" condo almost 2 years ago I ran into a similar issue - the fridge was a disgusting mess, full of mildew, mold and various food stains. <S> It was beyond disgusting, but we were able to salvage it - using my steam cleaner to clean/sanitize the interior. <S> My Steam Cleaner <S> Apparently the one I own has been discontinued, but something similar to this will work excellent. <S> Far better than using chemicals to clean - <S> and it removes pretty much everything nasty you find in a dirty old reefer. <S> Since I purchasing the steam cleaner - I've pretty much eliminated the need to use chemicals for the majority of my hard surface cleaning. <A> After doing everything else to clean the hard surfaces, you might want to look to see if you can get a gasket replacement kit for your model of fridge -- sometimes, it's easier to replace softer parts than to try to clean them. <S> (particularly if they're aged / cracked / torn / etc.) <S> ... <S> oh ... and don't use mouthwash. <S> That was my brother's solution to trying to use to disinfect (after hosing out and scrubbing) <S> a fridge in similar condition that I acquired ... <S> everything tasted vaguely minty for months afterwards. <A> My friend uses laundry detergent <S> but it is hard to rinse the suds out completely, so stick with the baking soda. <S> Leave it outside with the doors open for a day or so then closed with baking soda boxes inside and wiped on the walls. <S> Then rinse. <S> Ta da!!! <S> It sounds too simple but it does work.
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Generally speaking, baking soda is recommended for cleaning and deodorizing the fridge. You do not want to use harsh cleaners as they tend to leave their odor inside and they may harm the plastic and rubber. I've used bleach in the past but you have to rinse it out VERY well.
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What is the best way to clean toilet bowl stains? Bought a house a little over a year ago and it was previously a foreclosure and sat for a while. Because of that, it hadn't been cleaned for a while and developed some stains around the water line in all the toilets that we haven't been able to get off. Anyone have any tips on how to get rid of them? Rather unsightly and sure there must be a way to clean them off. Have tried some different tips I'd heard, like pouring a 20oz Coke in the toilet and let it sit over night... that didn't work. <Q> Surprisingly (to me, anyway) <S> a pumice stone works great for this. <S> A friend recommended it to me when I had a similar situation to yours. <S> I had a hard time believing the stone wouldn't scratch the porcelain bowl, but it didn't and removed the rings pretty quickly. <A> Have you tried CLR ? <A> I have a well as my water source, and my water has high levels of iron. <S> This stains and leaves a residue in my sinks, shower, and toilets. <S> It's from from the byproducts of the iron-eating bacteria. <S> It's actually harmless, but it's smelly and ugly. <S> If you're not sure what's in your water, you should take a water sample to get chemically tested. <S> I found a state certified water lab in the yellow pages under "Chemical Consultants." <S> Mostly cleaning the toilet just takes elbow grease, patience, and a willingness to work on a gross toilet for some time. <S> I start by just scrubbing with a toilet brush, both in the bowl and in the tank. <S> That gets rid of some of the loose buildup. <S> Then I put on some long rubber cleaning gloves, get a fresh Scotch-Brite scrubbing pad <S> (a used one is too soft to be effective), and I get started. <S> I use Barkeeper's Friend, a dry acid-based cleanser. <S> This helps to break down the stains. <S> I shake about 1 tablespoon of Barkeeper's Friend onto the Scotch-Brite pad and scrub it into the stain. <S> I mix Barkeeper's Friend with a small amount of water to make a thick paste and smear that liberally on tough stains. <S> I let it sit for about a minute, and then the stain is a lot easier to scrub out. <S> The cleaner is helpful in the upper bowl, but it's less effective below the water line as it just dilutes in water. <S> Just make sure you don't mix acid-based cleaners with chlorine bleach! <S> This produces poisonous chlorine gas. <S> I think liquid toilet bowl cleaners are now made without acids for this reason, but check the ingredients carefully. <S> And wear long cleaning gloves and eye protection. <A> I would suggest stainsolver <A> Use brick acid or patio cleaner shifs any stains, just be careful as they are strong acids.
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I've tried liquid toilet bowl cleaner too, and that can help.
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Why is my toilet constantly backing up? I've been in my new house for a few months now, and I end up plunging one of our two toilets about once a week - they tend to swap turns on which one gets to be finicky each week. Is there a more serious cause behind this, or do I just have 'crappy' (hehe) toilets? I don't know if it could be an issue with my septic system. The previous owners weren't too into home repair, so I have no idea if it's ever been pumped, but the house is only 7 years old. While I have managed to refine my plunging technique to an art, I'd appreciate any advice that will let me take a break. <Q> This sounds terribly obvious, but have you tried snaking it? <S> Depending how long the run is to your septic tank, you could have a blockage further from the toilets, at a point where the pipes join, and the plunger just gains you a little time by shoving crap into the other end of the "Y". <A> I highly recommend the American Standard Champion4 Toilet . <S> I installed this when I remodeled one of my bathrooms and <S> two years later it has yet to clog (compared to the other two toilets in my house that clog on a regular basis). <S> The advertisements show it being able to flush golf balls and although my kids have not tried that (at least not yet) <S> I bet it really could handle it. <S> You can find it at both Lowes and Home Depot . <A> From your description, I'd guess it is the toilets themselves. <S> If it is the septic system, you would expect to see slow flowing drains/backup in all of the drains on the lowest floor of the house. <S> If it is only one toilet that is experiencing this, I'd guess it is a cheapo low-power model installed by the builder. <S> Do you have the brand/model and stats of the toilet? <A> Get a bucket of water - About 2 gallons. <S> After dropping the kids in the pool (Thank you BMitch for that euphemism), dump the entire bucket in the bowl. <S> If it flushes ok, then your problem is that there's not enough water in the toilet tank. <S> (Look at adjusting the float level) <S> If it doesn't, the problem is further down the line. <S> Contact the Landlord. <A> Are there tree's near-by? <S> Especially "Fruitless Mulberry", <S> they stretch out in search of water like no other. <S> I once had a similar problem, upon removing the toilet I found that our tree discovered that there was water there and started rooting in the pipe. <S> The tree's roots had come up from the floor and pushed their way through the seal and then started working down the pipe. <S> To my knowledge they didn't break through the pipe (I hope) just came up an over <S> , it was very strange to see. <S> A simple matter of pulling out the 10 feet of roots and we have had no more problems with that toilet. <A> I bought a house recently, and one of the toilets kept getting clogged. <S> A plumber showed me the reason this particular toilet backed up. <S> The toilet was one of the first water efficient models to come out, and had a cylindrical dam that reduced the amount of water that flushed. <S> He said most people break the dam and get better water flow, but that as a licensed plumber he wasn't allowed to do that. <S> So I broke the dam barrier, and it has fixed the problem. <A> Have you tried pulling up the toilet and seeing if there is an object stuck in trap (the S-shaped portion of the toilet)? <S> I had a similar issue and someone had dropped a toothbrush into the toilet, which got lodged sideways into the drain area. <S> I took off the floor bolts, detached the water source, pulled up the toilet, looked up the toilet drain pipe, and the problem was immediately evident. <S> You might need to buy a new wax ring to reinstall the toilet onto the floor. <A> Check the cleanout going to your septic tank. <S> If the water level is high there then you may have a clogged pipe at the tank or it may be time to get it pumped (I had a root ball grow into mine a few years ago). <S> Another thing to check is your vent stacks. <S> There should be one no more than a few feet from each toilet. <S> Running a snake through those can help sometimes. <S> Good luck. <A> You've not described in detail what you call 'backing up'. <S> If that means the toilets just aren't flushing properly all the time anymore, you may have mineral buildup in the channels around the rim. <S> My 6 year old low-flow decided to stop flushing completely every time. <S> No amount of plunging or snaking, or adjusting of flappers and floats helped. <S> What fixed the problem was a couple of cups of Muriatic acid (HCl) down the overflow-pipe. <S> That pipe flows into the top rim of the toilet. <S> I let it sit for an hour, and gave the toilet a flush. <S> All sorts of mineral scum came out and the toilet is now flushing first time, every time; just like it did when it was new. <S> HCl is corrosive stuff. <S> For your own safety, look up how to do this procedure safely before trying it. <S> This is a bad idea for those on septic systems, unless you disconnect the toilet from the system first. <A> I think installing a new toilet just because one or more toilets back up is rather a big money waster; there's no proof a new toilet won't do exactly the same thing. <S> Better to find out why it backs up and then fix the problem. <S> In my mind, exchanging the bowl does nothing except remove good money from your wallet. <S> Try the simple approach first--liquid plumber. <S> If there is a simple blockage, it'll take care of it. <S> If it doesn't them you could rent a snake from your local rent-all. <S> If this doesn't do the job then do what you should have done: call a plumber and fix it <S> right <S> so you don't have to worry about going out and leaving the house and not finding furniture ruined when you return. <S> It is a common thing to have happen, so the fix should also be common. <S> It does not entail spending hundreds of dollars on a new toilet.
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It's probably the toilet that is the problem and nothing later in the line.
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Is it necessary to connect a boiler and gas meter to the main fuse box? We are getting a new kitchen fitted. An electrical survey has been carried out by the compnay installing kitchen. they have said that, our brand new and recently fitted, boiler needs a earth wire running from itself to the fusebox. As does our old gas meter. This is a pain as they are at the outermost parts of our property and the fusebox is central. So it will mean cables/wires all over the place. Surely the boiler can be earthed via nearby mains powerpoint ? Or straight out to the literal earth via the nearby water stop cock/water meter. Any advice from electricians, or those with electrical knowledge ? I am based in the UK, and apparently these are health safety regulations, although I think they are somewhat open to interpretation. <Q> I know you're in the UK, but I'll answer for the US in case someone there has the same question. <S> Boilers and furnaces must be powered by a separate, grounded circuit. <S> NEC 250.104 <S> (B) <S> Other Metal Piping. <S> Where installed in or attached to a building or structure, a metal piping system(s), including gas piping, that is likely to become energized shall be bonded to the service equipment enclosure, the grounded conductor at the service, the grounding electrode conductor where of sufficient size, or the one or more grounding electrodes used. <S> The bonding jumper(s) shall be sized in accordance with 250.122, using the rating of the circuit that is likely to energize the piping system(s). <S> The equipment grounding conductor for the circuit that is likely to energize the piping shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means. <S> The points of attachment of the bonding jumper(s) shall be accessible. <A> If you have a hot wire that has come loose that touches the gas pipe you want it to cause a short so that it trips the breaker, or blows a fuse. <S> If the wire doesn't trip a breaker, or blows a fuse, the wire can start eating away at the pipe. <S> I have actually seen an armored cable eat away at a piece of ductwork, all the wile giving off a glow where the two met. <A> I would have thought that the boiler would be earthed through it's normal power supply, but if it needs a separate earth then as for the meter you could run the earth wire around the outside of the house to the fuse box (or as far as possible) which would minimise both the disruption in installing it and the amount of wire you need. <A> Keep in mind what the goal is. <S> The goal is to have everything bonded to a common ground to avoid voltage differentials due to different ground potentials. <S> Like others have said, older installations might use water pipes, but newer usually can't. <S> I don't know your local code, but that's the goal that the code is pushing you towards.
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Any metal piping system that is likely to become energized must be bonded, including gas pipes, but the equipment grounding conductor run with the circuit conductors feeding a gas appliance "shall be permitted to serve as the bonding means": I don't think you can earth via the water pipes any more, so that's not an option.
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How can I create circuit diagrams and what program should I use? Circuit diagrams are very handy. On this site, they can really help illustrate the problem or solution (see here ). They can help you visualize what needs to be changed when doing work on your house, and they keep a record of how your house is wired up. How can I easily create these diagrams, especially if I want a digital copy of them? What simple (hopefully free) programs do people use? <Q> It might be a little bit of overkill for drawing simpler diagrams though. <S> The best news is, it's FREE! <S> Screenshot: <A> The easiest solution is to draw on paper, then scan or photograph . <S> Even cell phone cameras are usually sufficient. <S> It may not look as professional, but you don't have to install diagramming software and learn to use it. <A> So to post a formal answer- <S> The program I used to create the diagram in the linked post was Adobe Illustrator, which is definitely not free. <S> That combined with a good library of commonly used symbols in SVG format would make creating these diagrams much easier. <S> I have been able to find plenty of typical electrical circuit symbols but have yet to find home wiring symbols. <S> I have several that I have made, that I'd be happy to release if they would be useful. <S> Edit- <S> another program I have used in the past that is free is xfig , which is a simple vector drawing program for X11 systems. <S> Works great on Linux or OS X, and it includes a pretty big library of schematic symbols. <A> If you use a Mac, then OmniGraffle might work well. <S> It has some basic symbols for circuit diagrams, and you can easily add new ones (e.g., by pasting in some that you find as images on web pages). <S> It's about $100, but there is a 14-day free trial. <A> I use TinyCad - its free, open source and is very activily supported by users. <S> http://sourceforge.net/projects/tinycad/ <A> <A> I use TurboCad. <S> Prior versions are available from software discounters for as little as US$20 . <S> A Mac version is slightly less. <A> I have been using Frtitzing. <S> It has a somewhat devent library of components. <S> It works differently than most. <S> It lets you put parts and wires on a breadboard, then it generates the schematic. <S> It also does PCB layouts. <S> Best of all, it is open-source and free. <S> http://www.fritzing.com
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That being said, any descent vector drawing program can easily make diagrams like these- one free one that comes to mind is InkScape . I knew a few EE's who used TinyCAD for circuit diagrams. You can use Kicad - open source and very activily supported by users.
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Is it an easy task to replace a wall thermostat? As above, is it an easy DIY job to do this safely? In my research into the above it has become apparant that I should consider replacing the old thermostat with a programmable one for energy savings. How does a programmable thermostat produce savings? I assumed the whole point of the thermostat in the first place was that the heating wouldn't be on if it was below the desired level anyway. <Q> Disconnect the two wires coming from the furnace/boiler, then reconnect them to the new thermostat. <S> Turn off power to the furnace/boiler first. <S> A programmable thermostat saves fuel and money because it can be programmed to lower the temperature when you sleep or are at work. <S> It doesn't matter which brand you pick, but most of them have horrible user interfaces, worse than old VCRs and clock radios. <A> To answer the first question: Replacing the thermostat is equivalent to changing a light switch. <S> You need to turn the power to the central heating off before you start work. <S> Unscrew the old thermostat, disconnect and then reconnect the new one. <S> What you will need to make sure before you do this is that the new thermostat has the same terminals as the old. <S> Do you have a particular thermostat in mind? <S> If so can you provide a link, then we'll be able answer the second question more easily. <A> To lend support to ChrisF ... <S> it's very easy to change your thermostat. <S> Every place I've lived in has had the old mercury trip thermostat, wildly inaccurate. <S> I just went to my local home depot and for about $25 <S> I picked up a nice programmable digital thermostat. <S> Was a snap to replace and works prefectly !! <A> Like other answers indicate, this is pretty simple, and a great idea if you're going from a manual to programmable thermostat. <S> I can't comment yet, but thought it important to point out that there are ( <S> at least) two different types of thermostats. <S> Some work for forced-air furnaces, and others work for radiators. <S> Make sure you get the right kind.
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Replacing a thermostat is trivial, and similar to changing a light switch.
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Can I safely power a three-prong electrical device from a light socket? I have a covered lampholder (light socket) outside my house that I want to use to temporarily power a plug-in string of indoor/outdoor lights. Using CFLs, the total wattage of the string of lights will be lower than the rated wattage (100 W) of the lampholder. The string of lights uses a grounded (three-prong) plug. Is there a way to safely power this using the lampholder? I can't find any lampholder-to-outlet adapters that give you a grounded outlet. Are there any? Would it be safe to use a two-prong lampholder-to-outlet adapter with a two- to three-prong grounding adapter? Is there anything I can do to make it safer? Keep in mind that this is outdoors, under small cover. <Q> If you're talking about an E26 lampholder (the medium screw-in base widely used in the US), there are only two electrical contacts: live is at the back of the lampholder and neutral is the screw thread. <S> While the light fixture itself should be grounded, it's not available via an adapter. <S> In an outdoor situation, ground protection is even more important than indoors; if your exterior circuit also includes exterior receptacles, it should already be covered by a GFCI. <S> As I said in an another answer , that breaks the circuit if there's a ground fault, but without a ground connection, any current is going through you to ground, instead of through the ground lead. <S> So no, it's not safe to use a two-prong to three-prong adapter and leave the ground on your lights disconnected. <A> Another option would be to replace the basic lampholder with a lampholder that has a grounded outlet in its base. <S> They fit on the same hole size, and this would give you the grounding that you are looking for as well. <S> Of course, you will need a ground wire already run to the lampholder (which may or may not already be there). <A> Firstly if the circuit is protected with a RCD (residual-current device) you have a lot less to be concerned about. <S> I would not be very happy having a string of lights not protected by a RCD however they are connected! <S> The next step is to find out if the earth pin on the lights plug does anything. <S> There may be only a two core cable from the plug to the lights, or the earth core of the cable <S> may not connect to anything in the lights. <S> If this is the case you don’t need an earth. <S> If you do need an earth (ground), you have to be careful about which earth you use. <S> Depending on where you live you are not allowed to connect outside equipment to the house earth and must put in a separate earth spike. <S> Otherwise if you get a fault in the house, you can export the fault voltage to the case of the outdoor equipment. <S> If I were you, I would buy a set of low voltage lights , or failing that a set of “double insulated” lights so you don’t need to think about earthing. <A> https://www.amazon.com/GE-Porcelain-Lampholder-Grounded-18305/dp/B008DB3JRY https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-9726-C-One-Piece-Incandescent-Lampholder/dp/B00002N5FR <S> These are Amazon links, but you can buy the Leviton one in Home Depot, however it is ceramic, so don't over tighten the screws. <S> These can fit 4 inch or 3 & 1/4 inch light fixture base. <S> The 4 inch screw holes are opened, but if you need 3 & 1/4 inch, use hammer & nail or very small chisel to open them.
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I have seen exterior light fixtures with a grounded electrical outlet built into them; if you were able to change the light fixture, that would be the safest way to go.
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What quick and dirty tool/method should I use for cutting scrap drywall? I have a pile of drywall scrap that's been sitting in my garage for a few years after a remodel, "just in case". My buddy came up with the idea of turning it into "karate boards" for our kids to destroy. Scrap pieces start at half sheet (4x4) and go down. I'm also on the lookout for an excuse to buy something new. (Honey, it's for the kids!) At this point my only idea is to use the circular saw and toss the blade afterwards. <Q> A craft knife or box cutter will do the job very quickly and cheaply. <S> You only need to score the front side of the drywall <S> and then it should snap cleanly enough along the score line. <A> Niall's right with the craft knife -- just score, snap, and cut the paper on the other side. <S> The rotozip and similar work fine, <S> when it's just quick a dirty, unless it's really intricate cuts, I stick with a good old drywall saw . <S> You can get cheap ones for $3-5. <A> There is always a drywall saw . <S> It can be messy (not as clean as a knife) <S> but it works fast. <A> You have an excuse to buy a tool? <S> Why not go for broke: <S> US-X Computerized Cross-Cut Saw <A> If you're really on the lookout to buy something new, a sawzall would make extremely quick work of this task. <S> It's like using a sledgehammer to kill a fly, but they're really handy in other areas, and you can pick one up for less than $100.
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If you already have a Dremel or Roto-Zip, you can get drywall bits for them that will make short work of any drywall. The rotozip suggestion is also a good one.
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How do I cut nice mitered corners? I will be adding moulding and trim to a few rooms after I lay laminate flooring. I have already done this in one room and I was really discouraged with my miter cuts. In most corners, I had a gap of at least 1/4" that I had to fill with caulk even though I set my compound miter saw to 45 degrees. Does anyone have any advice on cutting better corners? <Q> That gives you a joint that appears mitered, but is more forgiving of slight errors and with less tendency to open up over time. <A> There are two possible causes for this: <S> Your room's corners aren't exactly 90°. <S> Your mitre saw isn't accurate. <S> Given <S> you mention you are using a compound mitre saw <S> I'm going to go with the former. <S> Unfortunately with non-square rooms you're going to have to do this by a little bit of trial and error. <S> Use some offcuts of the moulding or even scrap wood to find the exact angles you need and then transfer those to the actual pieces of wood you are going to use. <A> Are you cutting with the board standing up in the saw like it will be positioned in the room, or with the board laying flat in the saw and using the compound setting to cut it? <S> The reason I mention <S> it is that I once borrowed a saw <S> and it just wasn't as accurate using the compound setting (saw tilted). <S> Swinging the saw left or right, there is usually a detent at 45 degrees and the saw is more accurate. <S> If you board is too wide, you may have no choice other than lay it flat and use the compound feature. <S> Brian
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Keep in mind that for inside corners, you shouldn't be using miter cuts at all -- you should cope them instead.
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How do I get the stem out of a hose bib to replace the washer? I have no idea why this isn't simple, perhaps because every repair project has to have some hitch in it to piss me off. I have a leaky hose bib in my back yard, so I wanted to take the sucker apart and replace the washer in the valve stem, right? Well, I took the screw out, the one in the middle of the handle. Then I unscrewed the hex around the stem, but the sucker just won't come loose. It shakes around and wobbles like it should come off, but it just doesn't. I thought maybe I needed to unscrew the handle out of there once I got the screw and nut off, but wound up just breaking off part of the handle. So now I am buying a new hose bib anyway to replace the one I broke, but I am still curious, how the heck do I get that sucker off? For reference, the hose bib is the style pictured here. <Q> (I need to do one of these myself in the next couple of days.) <S> As I recall, you would follow this procedure... <S> Turn off the water, so <S> no pressure is found at the valve itself. <S> Remove the handle, by unscrewing the small screw in the center. <S> Be careful not to damage the phillips head recess, as this screw is probably made of brass. <S> Remove the small nut around the stem. <S> Put the handle back on. <S> This part is only temporary, to allow you to unscrew the stem itself. <S> If the stem will not pull out, you need to pull out the packing around the stem. <S> That packing prevents water from escaping past the stem when the water is turned on. <S> You may need a needle nose pliers to pull the packing out. <S> Do so. <S> Again, be careful with that screw as it is often made of a soft metal. <S> If you damage the head, replace it too. <S> (If the water has been dripping for too long, the seat for the valve can actually be eroded. <S> So look inside for signs of this. <S> There are tools you can use to repair a valve seat, but it might just be better to replace a valve that is badly damaged.) <S> Screw the stem back in. <S> Replace the packing. <S> New packing can be bought from your local hardware store, and it is a good idea to replace it now. <S> It is basically cord, impregnated with graphite or teflon, that will compact under pressure from the nut. <S> Put the packing nut back on, not too tight that the stem will not turn, but not too loose that water comes out when the pressure is back on. <S> Either of these problems are easily identified and resolved of course. <S> Put back the handle in its proper place, tighten down the screw carefully. <S> Turn the water back on. <S> Check for leaks. <S> I think I got the major steps down. <A> There are about 5 steps to this and it's easier if you have a breakdown diagram. <S> The pictured hose bib is a Prier, probably a C-138 <S> Two for the price of one, first section is how to replace the seat washer, second to repair stem leakage. <S> Note: <S> The Handle, Stem, Stuffing Box, Packing Nut, Packing Nut Seal and Seat Washer all come out as one complete assembly on this faucet. <S> Replacing the Seat Washer, Faucet leaks when fully closed. <S> Find the water shutoff for the zone <S> this faucet is in (mains for whole house if that's the only one) and shut the water supply off. <S> Turn <S> the hose bib handle 1/4 turn open. <S> Loosen the Packing Nut (see illus below). <S> As you turn it, the Stem will probably turn with it, if not, turn both Stem and Packing Nut in the same direction till the Stem/Packing Nut assembly comes out of the faucet body. <S> Remove the Seat Sealing Washer screw, and replace the washer. <S> Reverse operation for assembly. <S> If the faucet is leaking around the handle, gently tighten the Stuffing Box Nut 1/16-1/8 turn to compress the packing (what the stem seal is called). <S> If it feels like you're tightening metal to metal, the packing has worn out and needs to be replaced. <S> Replacing the Packing, Faucet leaks around the stem when open. <S> Remove Handle Screw and Handle. <S> Remove Stuffing Box Nut (also called a Gland Nut). <S> Remove Packing and replace with new packing washer or graphited packing cord. <S> Replace Stuffing Box Nut <S> (finger tight) Replace Handle and Handle Screw. <S> Make sure you have a hose and closed nozzle attached to the hose bib. <S> Open faucet to pressurize hose and tighten Stuffing Box Nut down gently until the stem stops leaking. <A> There are two nuts. <S> One is the packing nut, right under the handle. <S> It tightness the packing around the stem and keeps water from leaking around the stem. <S> The second nut, called the bonnet nut, below the parking nut on the body of the hose bib, keeps you from opening the valve so far that it falls off leaving you with a mess! <S> You cannot take the stem out without removing the second nut. <S> It's in your picture. <S> From top to bottom: screw, handle, stem, packing nut, bonnet nut.
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Once the packing is removed, the stem should unscrew easily. Verify that you have the correct size washer, and put the new one in.
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What's the easiest process for cutting bathroom flooring tiles to fit complex door trim? I'm going to be laying in some fairly heavy-duty vinyl bathroom flooring tiles (similar to the Armstrong Caliber product, although I'm not sure it's actually that brand). The bathroom has some tough corners to match, which I will cover with molding, but also has some places where the doorway trim goes through the floor, and so I have to try to trim to the profile of the trim. Are there any good ways to do this (short of removing the trim and sing it as a template)? With lighter-weight linoleum I would probably just use a box-cutter to try to make the cuts - is there a better tool to use for this material? <Q> Then you only need to approximate the shape of the tile, but you don't have to worry about perfect edges. <S> I've used the Dremel Multi-Max with the 3/4" flush cut blade to cut base trim and door jambs <S> so I could slide hardwood flooring underneath. <S> I borrowed a friend's and decided I needed to buy my own as soon as my next project came up. <A> I'd agree with @aphoria about just cutting back the trim (unless this is a temporary job, as you're not going to be able to extend it later if the floor gets lowered). <S> ... <S> but I wouldn't use a dovetail saw. <S> Yes, the fine teeth will minimize tearing, but the handle placement and rigid spine make it much more difficult to get a horizontal cut. <S> Instead, try a " ryoba" (japanese pull saw) ... <S> the flexible blade means you get it right against where you're trying to cut. <A> I agree with aphoria about cutting under the trim. <S> The best tool for this is a dovetail saw. <S> Lay your vinyl next to the door, place the saw flat on top, create yourself a nice snug pocket to slide the flooring under. <S> As far as cutting the vinyl, you can use a heat gun to soften the material first to make an easier/cleaner cut with your utility knife. <A> You could use a profile gauge . <S> They are also known as contour gauges. <S> You push this against your architrave (the doorway trim) and you get the profile you need to cut. <S> You then transfer this to what ever you are cutting (the vinyl in this case) by drawing round the shape. <S> You then use a sharp knife to cut along the line. <S> The Wikipedia entry has a couple of nice pictures to show how it can be used. <S> I've also found this clip from MichaelHoligan.com which shows one in use.
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I would cut the bottom of the trim so the tile can slide underneath.
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What is the best way to remove and prevent leaf stains on concrete pavers? We have a brand new paver stone walkway/patio. To my dismay, I noticed that their were leaf and acorn stains from the oak tree in the front yard. I've learned my lesson and I'm going to try to keep the walkway swept more regularly. Will these stains go away with enough rain & time? If not, what's the best remedy for removing these stains? What's the best mode of prevention? <Q> The tannins from oak leaves will leave stains behind. <S> I would suggest not worrying about it. <S> Those stains are just character, part of nature. <S> Choose to appreciate nature. <S> You could probably bleach them out (using simple chlorine bleach or oxalic acid), but why? <S> Why introduce harmful chemicals into the area that may hurt you or damage your plants? <S> Besides, the bleach may not get everything consistently the same color as it was. <S> So you may just leave yourself with another problem to solve. <S> Sunlight will cause them to fade over time anyway, and as other stains occur, the pavers will become randomly stained, eventually all to the same color. <A> I have the same thing on my driveway. <S> A good power washer can remove the stains. <S> Once cleaned, use a concrete sealer to seal the pavers and that should take care of it. <A> I have a huge concrete patio - and oak trees. <S> Let it sit a few hours, rinse <S> and they disappear. <S> The reason I came to this site is to find out how to prevent the stains in the first place - saw this question and thought I'd at least contribute what I have observed on the cleaning part of the question. <A> Try oxalic acid first as this is reasonably mild - look for rust and bore stain remover in your hardware shop. <S> If this doesn't work then try hydrochloric acid (can buy fairly cheaply from a pool shop and is pre-diluted to about 32%). <S> Before applying any acid make sure the paving is saturated with water, this avoids the paver sucking in the acid which will damage the paver. <S> Follow manufacturer instructions for oxalic acid or apply hydrochloric acid and leave for a couple of minutes then wash down with plenty of water. <S> If the stain is still there then you may need o leave the acid a bit longer. <S> Always test an inconspicuous area first and wear safety gogggles and gloves. <S> Not sure, but I have read that chlorine bleach can actually darken the tannin stains - be careful. <S> Once fixed then seal the pavers after allowing to dry out a couple of days. <A> You could try an oxygen bleach like StainSolver . <S> Its not harmful to the environment. <S> I don't have any association with it other than being a customer. <A> Bleach and water do work very very well, though they are hard on the worms, they come out of the ground where the run off spills over, thus a sparing amount in a sprayer works well and is economical, just dilute somewhat and spray on. <S> I mist the concrete fairly well prior to spraying, I also like using a stiff brush to distribute well and rinse before drying. <S> I am going to seal the surface of the pavers with Thompsons water seal <S> , I expect this will minimize the tannins from leaves staining the pavers and concrete, though there are pricier sealer options out there. <A> When I had stains on my new pavers from gum leaves, we used napisan: made a paste and then put on the stains. <S> The stains were gone without the scrubbing.
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I just mix bleach and water in my sprayer and spray the stains.
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Why is my refrigerator so loud? Can I fix this? I live in a small NYC apartment and my refrigerator is close to the bedroom. When it kicks on, it's makes a loud thunk/click, and can be enough to wake me up. (While running it's pretty quiet.) I think it's the fan in the freezer. The maintenance folks have replaced it once or twice, but it seems not to change. Anything I can do? (FWIW, it's Whirlpool.) <Q> Here's an outside the box idea (which assumes that your main problem is that it wakes you up): <S> Get one of those timer plugs like they have for holiday lights and let it "unplug" your fridge while you sleep. <S> You'll need a beefy one to handle the compressor spike when it kicks on (check the ratings on the timer plugs and compare it to the max rating of your fridge). <S> Since the fridge door won't be opened, your food should be fine, though I'd test it the first night to be sure with a fridge thermometer. <S> If your fridge is still cold in the morning, you might have a solution! <A> It doesn't sound like your case, but ensure the unit is level. <S> If it is out of level, leaning components can make some sounds louder... <A> I had a fridge that clunked when it started. <S> It turn out the compressor motor mounts were worn out. <S> I replaced them and the fridge was quiet again.
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Try replacing the compressor motor mounts and/or make sure the compressor is not bumping something when it starts.
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About how much would replacing a septic tank cost me? We recently had our septic system inspected and were informed that the tanks themselves were shot and would need to be replaced. I'm in the process of getting estimates but in the meantime, I was wondering if someone could describe the procedure and ballpark costs. I assume we're talking about several thousands of dollars. Additional Information: House is located in Aptos, CA House is located on a mostly flat lot (9000 sq ft) and is elevated up from street. Front-yard is small and that's where the current septic tank is located. House is 48 years old Existing septic tank is concrete and 2250 gallons (according to inspections). Still waiting to complete details in report. <Q> I found some rough estimates at costhelper.com <S> Installing/replacing a conventional septic system (including the tank) <S> averages <S> $2,000 -$5,000 in the Midwest, but can be $4,000 -$12,000 or more in areas where materials and labor rates are higher. <S> These alternative septic systems work better than the conventional approach for sites with high groundwater or slowly/rapidly percolating soil, or near drinking water supplies, wetlands, coastal ponds or other water resources. <S> The cost of a septic tank alone runs about $500 -$1,800 depending on size (ranging from 300-1,000 gallons) and type. <S> Piping and other needed items adds another $100 -$200 to the total cost of materials. <A> This really depends on location. <A> In northern New Mexico, I just had a whole new tank + field put in for $4,200. <S> The tank is a 1,000 gallon model with an effluent filter and a vented lid. <S> The field is standard perforated PVC pipe in gravel-filled trenches. <S> Included in the price was filling in the old tank. <S> 2,250 gallons sounds like way overkill unless your house has like 10 people living in it! <S> You can probably get away with a tank half that big, if not smaller.
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Enhanced, engineered or alternative septic systems that use mounds, sand/peat filters, aerobic systems and/or constructed wetlands can cost $10,000 -$20,000 or more, according to the Rhode Island Regional Water Quality Program. Locally estimates are in the 50K-100K range to go from design to installation.
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Can you cap a chimney to reduce moisture and still use the chimney with a gas fire? Or does capping a chimney always remove the ability to use a fire ? <Q> I'm pretty sure that you can get caps that allow you to still use a gas fire. <S> Consult an expert though. <A> Yes, you can, but definately consult an expert like ChrisF stated. <S> I would start with a fireplace and chimney store. <S> I once made a cap that covered the flat space on top of the chimney and then had a raised center with a roof and screen to keep out rain and birds. <A> NO <S> The moisture is a result of lower flue temperatures allowing the water vapor in the exhaust gas to condense (dew point). <S> A cap will reduce the flow, but does nothing to prevent condensation. <S> The liner is sealed at the bottom with a fitting and an appropriate mortar. <S> The liner is then attached to a cap for a end-to-end seal. <S> The water in question is acidic and will attack the mortar, potentially causing leaks and joint failure, over time
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The only practical solution is to line the flue (with a metal liner) and remove the damper (if this was a wood burning fireplace, originally.
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What are my options to level out my air conditioner? The air conditioner on the side of my house is on a small slab of concrete. Over time, it has started to tilt as the land has settled. We just recently moved in and a few of the neighbors have givens us advice, almost all of which is different. What options do I have other than paying someone to remove the unit and re-lay a new foundation for it? <Q> I would try getting a crow bar or 2x4 under the slab and seeing if you could lift it up enough to get some gravel underneath it to level it off. <S> Although this could be difficult if the ground around the slab is soft. <S> Step 4: <S> Check concrete pad on which condenser rests to make sure it's level. <S> Set carpenters' level front to back and side to side on top of unit. <S> http://home.howstuffworks.com/how-to-maintain-an-air-conditioner2.htm <A> Dig out some of the front dirt to fashion a down ramp of sorts so you can get a small floor jack under slab. <S> Jack up the slab using a 4x4 long enough to support the entire width of slab. <S> Then, after it's level, put some bricks underneath to support it temporarily. <S> Remove the jack, and make a form to bridge that gap of the ramp area and fill dirt behind it. <S> Mix up some cement and pour in the voids under the slab to hold the bricks in place and support the rest of the slab. <S> Remove form and fill back after concrete is cured. <S> After doing it this way my slab stayed level for several years. <A> You might be able to use "Mudjacking", although this would require hiring a professional. <S> Mudjacking is the process of pumping a water, dirt and cement mixture under a concrete slab in order to lift it. <S> This mixture is called slurry. <S> The exact ingredients vary from company to company, and from job to job. <S> Mudjacking can be the solution to many homeowners’ concrete problems, including foundation settling, crumbling curbs and repairing falling sidewalks. <S> It may also be called concrete leveling, pressure grouting or slabjacking. <S> http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mudjacking.htm <A> Is the unit on legs? <S> If so, the legs might be adjustable. <S> One bit of caution, some units are actually supposed to be tilted slightly (<1 inch). <S> This is to enable water and snow to drain out the side, versus pooling in the bottom. <S> Unless your unit is really messed up, you should be able to shim under it. <A> I would not bother to pay someone to do this. <S> If the tilt is small, why bother anyway? <S> I would do this the simple way. <S> Pick a spot where you can insert a large crowbar/prybar underneath the edge of the slab, where you will wish to raise it. <S> You may need to dig out a small amount of dirt there to get a firm grip. <S> In front of that spot, place a piece of wood to use as a point of leverage. <S> It will also prevent the bar from sinking into the ground when you lift. <S> The slab plus the air conditioning unit will be moderately heavy, so expect to need a long prybar to lift it. <S> A friend may be of help here to help you to lift, as well as place a few well placed stones to support the slab after you have raised it to level. <S> One problem is the slab may crack if it is left without adequate support. <S> To prevent this from happening, after you raise the slab to level, inject some expanding foam insulation into the void under your slab. <S> This foam will expand to fill in that void, providing support for the slab. <S> While you might think that simple foam would be unable to provide much support, remember that it dries to a stiff, hard consistency, and the load per square inch from that slab will not be massive. <A> Go to Lowes and get some paver stones to place under there. <S> You may have to dig out a little dirt, but not too much. <S> Make sure the pavers are level. <A> If possible, buy two metal brackets and mounting hardware from a DIY store (they can help you pick the items) so that you can mount it to the wall a foot or two off the ground. <S> You will need a friend or neighbor to help you lift it; but you will get better air flow, less bottom rusting, and never worry about settling again. <S> (Make sure that the refrigerant lines and power cable are long enough to reach the raised mounting position).
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If pad has settled, lift pad with pry bar or piece of 2-by-4, then force gravel or rocks under concrete to level it. I would jack it up with a crowbar or new 2x4.
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What size dowels to use for joints? I'm comfortable with the process of creating and joining wood with dowels, but I'm not sure what size dowels to use in which cases? Specifically, I'm working with 1" thick stock (3/4" actual), what size should I use? What are the other sizes and lengths of dowels used for? Are there any recommended grouping or spacing for wood dowels? <Q> The best work I know of on the topic was written by Tage Frid (see http://amazon.com ). <S> The approximate rule-of-thumb, iirc, is to use a dowel <S> no more than 3/8 the thickness of the wood to be joined (and not less than 1/4 the thickness). <S> Expansion <S> For example, if you are joining 5/4 boards (finished thickness 1"), the dowels should be between 1/4" and 3/8" in diameter. <S> Likewise, if joining finished thickness 3/4" boards, use between 3/16" and 9/32" diameter dowels. <S> This presumes, of course, you're joining the boards on the narrow dimension (e.g. making a door frame). <A> When dealing with joinery I typically always deal with thirds. <S> So I'd get whatever is closest to 1/3" that I can get. <S> 3/8" is probably good for this, 5/16" even better. <S> This can be applied to all types of joinery such as mortise and tenon, splined miters, bridle joints, etc. <A> Obviously depends on the type of wood (of the dowel), is the dowel in single shear or double shear <S> , can the base wood handle the load on the dowel or will it split or deform, what is the load going through the joint, etc. <S> wood properties <S> http://www.awc.org/pdf/wsdd/C1.pdf <S> american wood council pdf contains detailed formulas for calculating dowel size. <S> http://www.awc.org/pdf/tr12.pdf
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Thirds is a pretty good rule of thumb especially for furniture sized joinery.
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How do I join 2x4s without mitering? I asked this question on the Bicycles site: DIY wooden bike rack — looking for plans I'm planning to build this rack out of 2x4 pieces of wood. It'll live in my garage. I'm looking to make a rack similar to one of these, but simpler and, obviously, not made of metal: ( photo credit ) My question is, how can I join 2x4s so they'll be strong, particularly the ones that are horizontal? The stand won't support the weight of the bikes, but it will keep them upright. (Several of my bikes don't have kickstands.) I'd like to avoid mitering the joins, to make construction simpler, since I don't have a miter box. (We have a circ saw and a regular wood saw.) <Q> I know you mentioned that you want to build the bike rack out of wood (and 2x4s) <S> but... <S> You could probably build nearly that exact bike rack out of PVC pipe or even a slightly simpler design: http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/goodies/TruckbedBikeRack.htm <A> Go to your local big box store (Home Depot / Lowes / etc) and look into joist hanging / decking hardware, such as these. <A> I wouldn't use miter joints for a project like this anyway -- they're mainly for appearance, not strength. <S> Then you can just screw them together with deck screws, or for even more strength you can glue them too. <S> If you want to enhance the appearance you can create an official lap joint like this: <S> The advantage being that your boards end up in the same plane and look a bit less klugey. <S> You could make these either with your hand saw (tedious), or by making several half-depth cuts with your circular saw and removing the remaining material with a chisel. <S> Where you need to butt a 2x4 up against the flat of another, this won't work. <S> You can make these with your circular saw and chisel too. <S> With some glue and a couple of screws through the long piece into the end of the butted piece, this makes for a very strong, nice-looking joint. <A> You don't have to worry about joining 2x4s so they will be strong. <S> It's not at all sophisticated <S> but it is easy to build and strong enough to do the job. <S> I happened to have some scrap lumber, consisting of two 6-foot boards and many 30-inch pieces. <S> The two 6-foot boards are the top and bottom of the bike rack. <S> The bottom of the bike rack sits on the ground. <S> The 30-inch pieces are nailed vertically between the top and the bottom boards, forming slots into which your bike tires sit. <S> I spaced the vertical pieces according to the varying widths of various bikes' tires. <S> The bike rack can stand alone, but it becomes much more stable when at least one bike is inserted into each side of the rack. <S> The vertical boards keep the bikes from falling over. <S> There's enough friction that, on the floor of my garage, the bikes don't roll away on their own. <S> Here is a picture of the rack when it is fully-populated: <A> Miter joints are simply not strong enough here to support the loads they will see. <S> And glue won't be strong enough either to keep the miters together. <S> End-grain to end-grain does not make for a strong glue joint. <S> I've used hand cut mortice and tenon joinery on 2x4 construction before. <S> Yes, it was overkill, but it was fun to do. <S> :) <S> It does yield a strong joint, one that you will trust. <S> It is not even that difficult to do, since the 2x4s are soft wood to cut even with a handsaw and chisel. <S> For even more assurance, after the joints are assembled, drill a hole through the joint, and insert a dowel through it to prevent the tenon from pulling out. <A> Based on your sketch in the link, I would just nail or screw them together. <S> It would more than suffice. <A> I would suggest using a top and bottom rail of 4 * 2 and make the uprights from large diameter dowel (think broom handle). <S> This should be more than strong enough for your needs and much lighter.
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I made the simplest possible bike rack by butting them together and nailing them. Unless you want it to look pretty I'd stick with lap-type joints, where the pieces overlap each other. The best joint to use in this case would be a dado:
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How do I clean vinyl siding without a pressure washer? My vinyl siding is turning green from mildew and I have to clean it up this weekend. I let a friend borrow my pressure washer at the beginning of the summer, and he's out of the country for awhile. I'm working that angle to try and get it back. I called for a rental and found that it's pretty expensive to rent one, even for a few hours. Are there any products out there that can you can spray on and rinse with a hose? These stains are 20+ feet up, so I'll bite the bullet on the tool rental before I get up there to scrub. My dad recommended giving Jomax a try. Any experience with this? <Q> Wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it. <S> I wish I took before/after pics. <S> Bought: <S> Jomax <S> Clorox <S> Outdoor Put in a garden sprayer designed for bleach according to instructions on Jomax: <S> 3/4 cups <S> Jomax 2 1/4 cups bleach <S> 13 cups water <S> For 75% of the siding, I applied the mixture, then rinsed after 5 minutes. <S> A number of sections needed a second application, and the worst section took three. <S> I rinsed using one of the "fireman" nozzles on my hose, <S> just so I could get it up to the eaves: <S> I did try just spraying the mildew with the nozzle...worthless. <S> "Firemen" should sue for defamation. <S> Anyway, I'm thrilled. <S> Probably took 25% longer than last year, but I wasn't dripping wet either :) <S> I'll get a power sprayer for next year, but I'll definitely stick with this; it looks much better than what I get from pressure washing alone. <A> Jomax is good. <S> Make sure the area is dry before using it, or you wasted your money. <S> Use a pump sprayer, start at the bottom and work your way up. <S> Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. <S> Rinse off with a hose or a pressure washer. <S> If you need to reapply, make sure the surface is dry first. <A> The north side of my taupe siding house was nearly solid green. <S> I sprayed the mix on, let it sit for about 8 minutes, then worked it horizontally with a long handled car-washing brush and let it sit a few more minutes and rinsed it off with the hose. <S> It's nearly perfect. <S> I'm going to go over a few sections that were very thick with growth again but from 20 ft you couldn't tell that it wasn't perfect. <S> One gallon of the mix covered about 10' X 20' <S> The brush work required a good bit of sweat equity <S> but I think its only required because I let this get so bad. <S> I'll follow up with a post after I clean the sides that are only dirty (no green stuff growing). <A> Go to a website call <S> Sidingswab.com. <S> They have a tool that mounts on an extension pole and you order the cleaning pad to fit the profile of your specific siding. <S> Works great.
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Jomax and bleach worked for me too. I think that spray and rinse will do it.
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What are the pros and cons of a cultured marble tub? I'm in the middle of a bathroom remodel (tear-out done), and the next step is to choose a tub. From a materials perspective, what are the pros and cons of using a cultured marble tub? For instance, resistance to scratching and chipping, noise, color-fastness over time, etc. <Q> I have a cultured marble kitchen sink <S> so I guess my experience is relevant. <S> It is noiseless (unlike a stainless steel one would), looks as cools as a stealth bomber (much cooler that a stainless steel one would), can be washed no-problem. <S> Surely there're drawbacks - I always fear dropping a heavy fryinng pan onto it and crash it this way <S> and obviously I remember to never use any acid-based compounds on it. <S> IMO acid-based compounds can be easily avoided and fear of crashing is mostly subjective - likely something heavy needs to be dropped from a reasonable height to cause real damage. <S> Other than that <S> I don't see any drawbacks so far. <A> I'll defer to the experts, but in the meantime, this link may be helpful in describing the basic pros and cons of the various tub options (scroll down the page to see the pro/con breakdown). <S> -M <A> Just a note for anyone who stumbles across this question in the future: my research turned up several reports that cultured marble should not be cleaned with any type of abrasive cleaner (i.e. Comet or other common "bathroom" cleaners). <S> It is a relatively soft material, and will scratch more easily than acrylic, porcelain, etc. <S> However, scratches can also be polished out.
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From what I could find, the material itself is quite resilient against damage, mold, and color fading. That being said, the largest objection has been personal preference as some people consider cultured marble to look "dated".
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What should I look for in a Whole House Fan I see a lot of variance in the prices of whole house fans in the market, and not a lot of clarity or comparison between vendors and models. We're looking to buy some to install in our newly purchased duplex. What are some things to look for and common issues or concerns with the installation and operation of these devices? <Q> I have spent hours, even days researching whole house fans, and have found them to be one of the most cost-effective energy-saving home improvements one could choose to make. <S> Dual speed operation is also nice, because the low speed is in many cases much quieter. <S> Exchanging the air is important, which high speed can do quickly, and low speed can be used over night to cool the thermal mass of the structure down to the core. <S> This way you can use your structure as a 'shield' against the heat the following day, and you can actually get more of a cooling effect with less airflow. <S> High Efficiency <S> - If you are considering installing a whole house fan, you are most likely trying to save energy by reducing A/C use. <S> So finding the most efficient whole house fan seems only logical. <S> Some manufacturers have begun using ECM (electrically commutated motor) technology, which allows for AMAZING efficiency numbers -- and also extremely low noise levels -- especially on the lower speed settings. <S> Automatic, Insulated Doors - Unless you like crawling into your attic every season to insulate the hole in your ceiling (or if you live in a mild climate) <S> you'd be better off finding a product that features mechanical insulating doors. <S> Keep in mind that the seal created when closed is as important, if not more important, than the insulation level (R-level) provided. <S> When shopping, ask whether or not the seal is maintained when the unit is off. <S> Without a seal, it does not matter what the R-level is, and the insulation can not do its job. <S> Good luck in your search, and keep these features in mind when shopping. <A> I have one in my house, never really had a problem with it. <S> They are a bit loud though, so put it someplace out of the way - putting it in the kitchen or living room or anyplace people like to congregate and talk would not be a good idea. <S> The only other thing to look out for is what happens in the winter. <S> The big problem with ours is that while the louvers close automatically when it isn't in use, in the winter heat has no problem escaping through those louvers into the attic. <S> It might seem like a minor thing, but it's easily noticeable - in the winter <S> my whole roof is covered with snow except for a bare rectangle directly above the fan. <S> They make styrofoam covers that you can place over the attic fan, but that requires you to get up in the attic every winter and put it on, then take it off every spring, which can be pain if you don't have easy attic access. <S> Another solution (the one we use) is to use one of those window insulating kits (with the tape and plastic, where you heat it with a hair dryer) and put that over the louvers. <S> It works reasonably well, but not ideal. <S> If you could get an attic fan that had some kind of real solution for this built in - say an automatically retractable cover, or one with a pull chain, that would be ideal. <S> Not sure if they even make such a thing, but it's something to look for. <S> ETA: <S> Another thing to watch out for - make sure your attic has plenty of ventilation. <S> Those fans move a lot of air, and you'll need plenty of ventilation in the attic to make sure all that air can get out. <A> Our previous house had a whole house fan. <S> I wired it up on a timer switch, so I could have it on when we went to bed, but have it shut off in the middle of the night. <S> This cooled the house when we went to bed, but didn't pull the really cold air in early in the morning. <S> Most of the newer whole house fans are much quieter and energy efficient. <S> Many of them also have insulating doors that automatically close. <S> For more information, watch this video from Ask This Old House. <A> Almost all whole house fans will blow air -- I'd pay careful attention to how loud it is <S> as ideally you let it run all night (or for many hours). <S> An added bonus is multiple speed settings to adjust to the evening, as well as a built in timer. <S> I'm using an Airscape 2.5e and love it <S> -- it's super quiet, internet connected (yes, <S> and it's more useful than you might think to have that as I can control it from my phone) and has a nice built in timer feature.
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After sorting through all of information out there, Here's what I'd look for: Quiet operation - This allows you to run the fan during the coolest hours of the day (the nighttime, while you sleep) and get the maximum cooling effect.
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How do I care for the land area directly above a septic tank? Any suggestions for how to care for the land area directly above a septic tank? I'm a first-time home buyer with a septic tank in my front yard. I'd like it to be aesthetically pleasing and consistent with the rest of the yard but didn't know if there was any special considerations to be aware of (e.g. don't water, mow, seed, etc). -M <Q> The one thing you do want to be aware of is the location of any inspection pipes, or manholes that might have a negative effect on mower blades. <S> Trying to mow around these nice yard "features" can be quite frustrating. <S> For our old system, we mulched around the area containing the manholes and inspection pipes (~ 4" white pvc pipe with a cap), and planted a nice flower garden around it. <S> We had our 3-year pumpings scheduled in the early spring before we plant, and if we needed work done on the system, flowers are easy enough to re-plant. <S> There are also some realistic looking fake hollow rocks you can buy- <S> we'll probably do this at our new place, as the covers are in an area not well suited to a flower garden. <A> When it comes to make the hatch invisible, I personally use a large flowers vase. <S> Previously I had a human statue (of manageable weight). <S> It adds a nice touch of classic to the garden, and it can be removed easily from the hatch when you require emptying. <S> Unfortunately it is prone to falling when you have a dog or small children. <S> The vase is a much safer solution. <A> I wouldn't water the septic drain field. <S> I would leave it dry <S> so it can absorb as much water from the septic as possible. <A> I am looking to cover our ~3 foot diameter cement cover with "green roof" / "green wall" grass. <S> The grass grows upon a substrate designed for a roof or to be hung-on-a-wall. <S> enter link description here
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You can pretty much do anything above a septic tank, as long as you aren't going to be doing major landscaping that requires tractors, heavy equipment, etc..
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Is this electrical junction up to code? I was up in my attic a few days ago, and I noticed a pretty ugly electrical junction that wasn't in a junction box. Here's the pic: Is this up to code? FWIW I live in north Alabama, outside city limits. However I'm assuming there are general building codes that would govern this sort of thing nationwide. At first I was horrified when I saw this, but then I remembered the home inspector had to have passed this several times when he was going over the house prior to our purchase. In fact, I SAW him walk right past where it was - I just stuck my head up in the attic while he went tromping around across the trusses. Am I just super OCD and this is a perfectly fine junction, or was it a major oversight on the inspector's part? Unless someone tells me otherwise, I'm planning on installing a junction box tomorrow, but I'd rather not waste my money/time if it's fine how it is. <Q> At first glance, I see several problems: <S> The junction should be in a junction box. <S> Is there even an electrical nut on the live wires? <S> Hard to tell under all that electrical tape <S> , but it doesn't look as if there's room for one. <S> Is the neutral from the red wire at top going into that tangle of lives? <S> If it's carrying live, it should be tagged to indicate that. <S> The red wire to the right shouldn't be running along the top of the ceiling joist. <S> If you can, run it along the middle of one of the sides. <S> Ideally, the yellow wire at bottom would pass through a hole drilled through the joist. <S> Failing that, there should be furring strips either side to prevent you from stepping on it. <S> The electrical tape on the neutral and ground wires isn't strictly necessary for code, but if it's there, it's customary to have it go around <S> the nut to help hold it in place. <S> Thanks to @tester101 : different sheath colors indicates different gauge wires. <S> Check that your circuit breaker has the appropriate amperage rating. <S> You'll also need them along the length of the wires that run along the joists, and it might be a good idea to have one near where the wire drops down through the 2x4 header (given the quality of the rest of the job, whoever did this may not have used staples when running the wire through the wall cavity). <S> Wiring shouldn't be piano-wire taut, but you don't want enough slack that you can trip over it. <S> They're human, so they can miss things, especially in an attic where the lighting isn't good. <A> I'm amazed that your inspector didn't call this out. <S> I suppose it could be just a random fluke that it was missed, but this is something that even the greenest inspector should have easily seen and noted. <S> I agree with all of Niall C.'s points, but would add that this looks like nothing a professional electrician would put together (and would certainly not have passed the electrical building inspection), and so is probably something added by a previous owner. <S> If I were you <S> I'd find out where these wires go and check out whatever's at the other ends. <A> That is an epic goat rope of a splice job. <S> Completely illegal. <S> In a nutshell - any splice outside of an enclosure is a hack. <S> You can debate the semantics of safety if that's just bonding a ground or whatever <S> but that is crappy work regardless. <S> 2008 NEC®©300.15 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings — <S> Where Required. <S> Where the wiring method is conduit, tubing, Type AC cable, Type MC cable, Type MI cable, nonmetallic-sheathed cable , or other cables, a box or conduit body shall be installed at each conductor splice point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, or pull point, unless otherwise permitted in 300.15(A) through (M). <S> There is such thing as a "concealable splice" kit (made by AMP) but that is a topic for a separate thread. <S> I'm sure most of you are familiar with the term "code smell" <S> - well this is an electrician's 'code smell'. :)
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It looks as if you might have a lot of slack in those wires. Staples: if you run wires across the joists, they should be stapled to keep them in place between the furring strips (that you also need; see #5). ALL splices must be in an approved junction box. Just because the inspector didn't mention it, doesn't mean it's OK. You may find a mess there too that needs to be fixed.
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How do I fill a hole under a sidewalk? The sidewalk leading up to my front door developed what looked like a sink hole under it about a year ago. Since then, an animal of some kind has made the hole even bigger and it now runs as a tunnel under my pathway. QUESTION:How to I fill this hole most effectively? Obviously it would be great if I could do it cheaply and without busting up the sidewalk. CONCERNS:I like in Omaha, NE. We have extreme winters and summers. I thought about pouring concrete into the hole, but I'm concerned that it would expand under the sidewalk and cause buckling and cracking. I also thought about filling it with just dirt and sand, but I'm concerned that I won't be able to get the hole filled directly under the middle of the sidewalk, thus not supporting the weight load put in the walkway. <Q> Fill the hole with concrete. <S> Concrete doesn't expand in the cold -- you're probably thinking of frost heave, which is where moisture in the soil freezes and expands, disturbing whatever's above it. <S> If your sidewalk hasn't heaved by now, then the addition of new concrete below it isn't going to change anything. <S> Filling the hole with dirt or sand may in fact cause the heaving you're concerned about though -- I can imagine a situation where you're unable to properly compact the dirt underneath the sidewalk, creating a nice loosely-filled pocket for water to sit in and freeze. <A> I hired a company to raise my driveway back to level. <S> They drilled a small hole in the cement pad and pumped in hydraulic cement. <S> It leveled out the pad and they assured me that it won't be bothered by frost heave. <S> The leveling service might be your best option to ensure that the hole is filled. <S> If that hole collapses it would put stress on the middle of the sidewalk (if the hole is large enough), causing it to split. <S> This is pretty much what happened to my driveway, the ground sank only in one section and the strain on the corner of the concrete was too great and it split where the ground dropped. <A> I would use polyurethane 2 part spray foam and fill from one side to the other. <S> Cures quickly, can be trimmed once cured and is waterproof. <S> I had several voids filled quickly and easily in a short time. <S> Concrete Jack is the leader in the field but there are many others. <S> BTW it is very durable and supports loads well. <S> It has been used to level concrete on interstates.
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A concrete leveling company could do the job.
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How do I install a receptacle box in lath/plaster wall? I have a room with ungrounded electrical receptacles and I need to install a grounded outlet. The walls are lath and plaster. What I want to do is install a new receptacle box for the outlet. Is there a way to do this without having a big hole to repair? Basically I'd just like to cut a hole just big enough for the receptacle box, but not sure if it's possible. I can easily get a wire to the desired location. I'm just not sure of how to get a receptacle box into the wall. There is a stud at the spot for an attachment point. Any links to a site with pictures or diagrams would be a real plus. <Q> I think you would be better off using a remodeling box (with the flanges that rotate out to grip the wall) and ignore the stud altogether. <S> so you have room to nail it into the stud. <S> Start by using something sharp to gouge out a small hole in the center of the spot for your new receptacle; I use the pointed tip of a drywall saw. <S> Once you've exposed the lath, expand the hole up and down until you find the edges of that piece of lath. <S> The other lath are going to be approximately the same size and spaced up to maybe 1/4" apart. <S> Adjust your planned spot up or down a little so that at least one edge of the box lines up with a gap in the lath -- it's easier to cut through the plaster on its own. <S> Expand the hole until it's big enough for the box, then use a jigsaw to cut away the lath. <S> Vibration from the saw can cause more damage to the wall so take it very slow and easy. <S> (Another reason to avoid the stud: if the lath ends at that stud, you'll only have about 1/2" of it to hold the plaster in place.) <A> The advantage is that (at least some of) <S> the metal boxes are smaller than the plastic boxes <S> so you have a larger margin between your box hole and the outer dimensions of your outlet plate so that more damage to the surrounding plaster can be concealed by the plate. <S> I also find the madison straps easier to install securely when the wall is thick, as is the case with plaster and lathe. <S> For examples just do an image search on the quoted text above. <A> I did something similar, and my wall is lathe-and-plaster, but covered with drywall. <S> I started by drilling a hole with a hole saw, then extended the hole to the size of a receptacle box using an electric jigsaw. <S> A bit of dust, but it worked wonderfully; it was not hard to make the hole the right size and shape. <S> I don't know if it would be different if there were no drywall. <S> Perhaps I would have to worry about the plaster chipping around the edges? <S> I also discovered that I needed to use a shallow receptacle box, for there was not enough space inside the wall for a regular one. <A> A high-speed 4" grinder works best. <S> It does not damage the integrity of the plaster wall. <S> Of course you will have to finish the corners of the cut out with a reciprocating saw.
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With a remodeling box, you just have to cut a hole big enough for the box, whereas if you use a regular box, you have to cut away more The main difficulties you'll face are that you don't know exactly where the lath is placed within the wall, and that the plaster will be brittle with age. You might consider the smaller "metal outlet boxes" that are mounted as "old work" using "madison straps".
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Can a portable air conditioner be used to reduce moisture in a room? I live in a flat in an older house and I have the disadvantage of living next to an outer wall. In autums/springs there is a period when the central heating isn't turned on yet, but it's already getting cold outside. During this time the wall (and generally air inside) gets quite moist and mold starts forming. Also the moist air makes it feel much colder than it really is (the thermometer shows 20C, but it feels like 15C). Thus I'm looking at dehumidifiers and air conditioners. The first are cheaper by half, the latter are more powerful (according to spec) and can also be used for cooling the air in the summer. But I really wonder how much I can trust the spec and how much it would really help. Does anyone have any experience with this? <Q> I would consider a dehumidifier which will pull moisture out of the air. <S> I'd also check into why the wall is getting moist. <S> Are you sure there is enough insulation in the wall, because you definitely should not have moisture condensing on or in the walls. <S> An air conditioner will make the room colder which you probably don't want if the weather is already turning cold. <S> The dehumidifier will pull the moisture out of the air without cooling the air the way an air conditioner would. <S> For the time being the dehumidifier should pull moisture out of the room for you. <S> The specs for the appliances (dehumidifier or air conditioner) are usually fairly accurate, most notably on larger name brands. <S> I've found knock-off and smaller brands to be a bit sketchy when it comes to performance, so I've learned my lesson and usually go for the larger more established brand names when it comes to things like this. <A> Every air conditioner I've ever seen works not only to cool the air but also to pull moisture out of it. <S> That's often why you get dripped on when you walk underneath a window unit. <S> There might be condensation on the cooling coils, but more often than not the "conditioning" of the air includes bringing it down to a comfortable humidity: literally pulling moisture out of the air and draining through a pipe -- often that part of the a/c's job is more important than altering the temperature in terms of comfort. <S> So yes, an a/c will be more expensive than a dehumidifier, but that's because it does both jobs: cooling and reducing moisture in the air. <S> I'd go the double-duty air conditioner route, but then again, I live in Florida and <S> we really can't get enough a/c down here! <S> Also, I've seen dehumidifiers in action <S> and I wasn't impressed. <S> You usually have to manually empty the water collection area, and even then it really doesn't do all that great of a job lowering the humidity. <A> I use my Sharp portable AC to dehumidify my man-cave/office fairly often, it works really well - and doesn't require any condensate drains or tank emptying nonsense. <S> Really all the machine is doing is running the AC at a minimum setting to remove the moisture from the air, but this is the most effective method of dehumidifying a room - short of purchasing a dedicated dehumidifier which realigns the airflow path across the condenser and evaporator to give you warm/dry air. <S> Or as a second alternative - buy a pallet of desiccant packs and spread it around the room :) <S> In all seriousness - I actually do something like that in my motorhome (I bought a big desiccant holding "bucket" from West Marine and it does a decent job keeping the dampness out, but you have to replace the pellets and drain the water periodically, <S> so it's kind of messy). <S> Good luck! <A> Just for a more concrete example, we have a portable air conditioner in a 15'x15' finished room (in a fairly new house) <S> that's currently filling a 5-gallon bucket every 12 hours (currently investigating draining it to the outside), so using them as a dehumidifier will certainly work. <S> Ours also has a mode to dehumidify without cooling which seems like what you were interested in. <S> Dehumidifiers tend to produce a fair amount of heat, which is fine if you're only worried about cool weather. <S> If you think you might also use it in the summer then you might want to go for the A/C unit. <S> Even if you weren't going to use the cooling feature, at least you can exhaust the heat it creates to the outside. <S> (I haven't seen any non-A/C dehumidifiers that have exhaust connections.) <S> In the winter you can disconnect the A/C's exhaust to keep the heat inside, and then it really would be just a giant dehumidifier. <A> I would get a portable A/C unit with dehumidifier option. <S> The thing no one mentioned is that an A/C and dehumidifier are almost the same thing. <S> The difference is an A/C unit separates the hot and cold air, sending the hot air outside and the cold inside. <S> The dehumidifier blows the air across a cold coil where the water condenses and than across the hot coil returning warm dry air to the room. <S> A/C units also remove water but the water that condenses is either blown outside as vapor or drips out of the unit. <S> During the winter you run it as a dehumidifier <S> so you don't cool your space during winter. <A> Don't ever make my mistake. <S> I bought a portable A/C with dehumidifier option ( Delonghi ) with the hope that it can cool me in summers and dehumidifi in winter. <S> But the fact is it gives cold wind in winter, not as cold as it gives in summer <S> but it decreases the room temperature significantly. <S> So because it is winter now i had to go and buy a dehumidifier unit , dehumidifiers give +2 degrees of room temperature but A/C units give -2 degrees of room temperature. <S> And it's because of the logic of their designs. <S> They work by same principle but different logic. <A> To use a portable AC as a dehumidifier during the winter I think you would need to remove it from the window place it on a level surface and run it <S> so it blows both sides back inside the room. <S> Then you only need to pipe the water drain through the wall with a rubber hose and a clamp. <S> My theory that the a cold air that blow from the front side equal the warm air that comes from the back vent. <S> If you leave it in the window then you blow the warn air out the window and the temp will drop significantly.
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The reason I said portable A/C with dehumidifier is during the summer you can remove the water and stay cool.
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How do I eliminate the "whooshing" sound of water running though pipes? At every faucet and toilet in our house, when water is running, it creates a loud wooshing noise in the walls. I'm not sure how else to describe it, but it's like the normal "oh I can hear the sink or toilet on upstairs" but VERY loud. What, if anything, can I do to reduce or completely eliminate the noise? <Q> Make sure the shutoff valves at your toilet and sink are fully open. <S> Inadvertently leaving them partially closed can cause sounds like you describe. <S> EDIT: <S> Just noticed you said "at every faucet and toilet in our house. <S> " <S> I'd still check all your shutoffs just to be sure, but also make sure you check the main shutoff valve for the whole house. <A> A disturbed water flow causes such sounds. <S> Since the sound propagates through the entire plumbing, the problem may be hard to pinpoint but is generally located at a valve or an endpoint. <S> Check that all valves are opened completely (and when applicable, close them half a turn to prevent them from getting stuck over time) <S> Try removing one of the faucets and letting the water flow freely; is the noise still present? <S> If not, then your faucets may be in need of descaling or replacement. <S> Try to determine the shared stretches of pipe <S> the water is flowing through for every 'waterpath' on which the noise is present. <S> Examine those stretches first. <A> As you can see from this question opening water pipe tap has hissing noise throughout the house . <S> To determine if the plumbing has too much pressure, you can pick up a water pressure gauge from the local hardware store for ~$5.00 - $10.00. <S> They are designed to attach to an standard hose bib, and can be used to measure static water pressure. <S> If you find that the system has higher than normal pressure (between 40-65 psi is normal), then you should first make a call to your local municipality and ask what the static pressure outside your house is. <S> If the pressure outside the house is as high as the pressure you are reading inside, then you will have to install, adjust, or repair a pressure reducing valve inside the house on the main service line (typically after the meter). <S> If that does not work it likely means the valve is bad, and will have to be replaced. <S> If you don't have a pressure reducing valve or the current one was found to be bad, you'll likely want to call a plumber to install/repair the valve. <S> If you're handy enough to fix/install it yourself (with proper permits of course), then you know what to do... so get too it. <A> Some form of insulation, either normal pipe cladding or expanding foam could be used to reduce the noise. <A> In addition to the main shutoff valve, I would also check any other valves or devices at or near the main shutoff, e.g. a back flow preventer or a pressure regulator valve:
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If you already have a pressure reducing valve, you can try to adjust it. Noises can also be caused by over pressurization of the plumbing system.
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Should I install baseboards before or after skimcoating? My bathroom walls were a mix of plaster and drywall with various layers of paint, primer, and skim coating. I attempted to skim coat the walls myself to prepare for priming and painting, but I wasn't happy with the results so I hired someone to do it right. The walls are smooth now but not quite flat. For example, if you put a baseboard against one wall the baseboard touches the wall at two high points horizontally and there is space between the rest of the baseboard and wall. The drywall guy said he would come back and fix anything that needs to be done such as those gaps and any other wall imperfections. He said however, that I should prime the walls and finish and nail the baseboards before he fixes the imperfections. He said that many of the subtle nicks and grooves in the wall would stand out better once the primer had been applied. He also said that he could achieve better results if the baseboards were nailed in first rather than using a straight edge to even out the low points, and that he would fill in from the top of the baseboards on up. It seems to me that it would be easier to use a straight edge to even it out and that the baseboards would only get in the way. He said he didn't want to make it flat only to have me put on the baseboards and find out that it still looked off. I don't really buy that. It also seems odd to prime first before getting all the imperfections since the primer seals the wall and putting patches on top of that doesn't seem quite right. I'm not a professional and I don't want to tell him how to do his job, but if he's cutting corners I don't want to be taken advantage of either. Personally I think he should have evened out the low points at the beginning. Hidden nicks I can understand. I'd be grateful for any informed opinions. <Q> I would put on the baseboards, but only tack them in place so they can easily be removed when the drywall guy is done. <S> The reason he is probably asking you to install them, is so he can make sure you are happy with the finish before he leaves <S> so he doesn't have to come back. <S> It's probably a good idea anyway, because it would be a shame to get all the painting done only to realize the baseboards don't fit right. <S> Then you would have to start all over again. <A> It's true that primer will show you any imperfections on your wall. <S> When I skim coated my ceilings, I was always surprised to find out how many spots I had missed after I primed. <S> As for the baseboards, I'm not completely sure what 'professionals' do, but I would put them on last. <S> It will be much easier to paint your wall if the baseboards haven't been installed. <S> Not having to either tape or carefully cut in will save you quite a bit of time and get you a better end result. <S> Your drywall guy should be able to get the wall straight enough without the baseboards installed. <S> Afterwards, if you still have a gap between the baseboards and wall, you can use caulk to fill it in. <S> (Assuming it's not >1/4") <A> I'm a long time general contractor, short time on this site,but I have done and have had done many walls with "Skim Coating". <S> Your drywall contractor is right and wrong. <S> He is right about going ahead and priming the walls. <S> It shows the imperfections and can be easily over mudded or filled with light weight spackle over the primer and reprimed. <S> Keep in mind that skim coating over old drywall is not a plaster job. <S> The skim will follow the existing long gradual bows and dips to some degree and isn't a fix to really bad drywall, especially a stud hugging 3/8's board job. <S> I disagree with putting on the baseboard first. <S> Use a scrap piece of trim or a 1X piece of stock to check for large gaps, and fill them. <S> Trying to fill large gaps after the trim is on will be a mess of mud over the edges of the trim and will reopen as temp and humidity changes. <S> Any gaps less than 1/4 inch can be easily filled with painter's caulk after the trim is installed and touched up with the wall color. <S> The drywall contractor can't make it perfect, so buy a few tubes of Alex Painters Caulk and finish it off real nice after the walls are painted, trim installed, in that order. <S> Good luck. <A> I had to have my walls skim coated <S> and I waited until I was completely done with everything before putting the baseboards on. <S> I didn't want to take any chances scuffing them up or getting paint on them. <S> My vote is do them absolutely last. <A> The drywall guy can hold a board up to the wall for a straight edge. <S> If the baseboard fit isn't perfect (hardly ever is) when you go to install it, then you can run a bead of calk down the top after you put it on. <S> Then paint the calc <S> either the wall o the baseboard color or split it.
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I'd say you should definitely prime first, and afterwards prime the spots your drywall guy skimmed again. I agree with baseboard last.
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Is this an acceptable way to add a light to a 3-way circuit? I have three way switches at the top and bottom of my stairs. There is a light at the top of the stairs controlled by the switches and I wish to add a light at the bottom. A 14/2 runs first to the light at the top (hot and neutral from the breaker), then a 14/2 runs to the switch at the top (hot supply and switched hot back to the light), and a 14/3 runs between the switches (travelers and switched return). It would be very difficult to run a new 14/2 (switched hot and neutral) from the light upstairs to the light downstairs, but it is easy to run a 14/2 from the downstairs light to the switch box downstairs. I want to know if it is acceptable to connect the hot switched from the downstairs 3 way to the light and run a separate neutral to the breaker box, or another nearby circuit's neutral. skill level: electrical engineer / homeowner, but not an electrician. (know how to not burn the house down, but don't know the electrical code) <Q> You're describing a shared neutral , and some local codes allow it, some don't. <S> However, it's usually described with closely related circuits, like a single 12/3 wire feeding alternate receptacles in a kitchen's two 20A circuits. <S> In general, I think they're a bad idea because if circuits A and B share a neutral, you could potentially still have current in A's neutral with A turned off at the service panel. <S> Using a ganged breaker mitigates those risks somewhat. <S> How difficult would it be to replace the 14/3 between the switches with two 14/2 wires? <S> That would get neutral to the downstairs switch and wouldn't raise any eyebrows <S> come inspection time. <S> If that would also be difficult, next step is to talk to an electrician that knows what's allowed in your area. <A> You'll want to run a new 14/2 line from the upstairs light to the downstairs light, that way everything is up to code and is done right. <A> Tester is absolutely right. <S> simple, huh? <S> BTW, adding an extra neutral on a single phase 120vac leg cannot introduce 240vac. <S> impossible.
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In addition, if A and B are on different phases and there's a problem with the neutral, you could have 240V across all your devices. Don't over complicate the job. Put the light fixtures, as many as you want, in a simple parallel circuit from the existing one with 14/2wg/nm and you will be fine and confirm to current code.
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What do I do when a horizontal rod for a popup drain is too short? My contractor just installed a Delta Arzo Two Handle Widspread Lavatory 3586LF into a Kohler Persuade Curv top and basin lavatory, K-2956-8. The problem is that the horizontal rod for the popup drain is not long enough to connect to the lifting rod strap. This is because the drain is too far from where the faucet is mounted in the sink. What is the typical solution to this type of problem? <Q> EDIT: <S> Niall C. suggested finding a replacement rod that fits. <S> Home depot has a few <S> sizes on-line, but they may have more in the store. <S> I'd try this solution before custom-making one. <S> Depending on the design of the horizontal rod, you may be able to replace it with a length of steel rod with the same diameter. <S> If the original rod is threaded at one end, you could get a tap and die set or see if threaded rod would work. <A> I found a drain kit at Home Depot that has a plastic L shaped rod connector as part of the kit. <S> The whole thing cost $4.85 <S> so it was a cheap fix. <S> I attached the connector with hose clamps since the rods in the kit were slightly larger than my brushed nickel rods. <A> they make a horizontal extension .. <S> it's on Amazon <S> I've used two with great success <A> I know this started as an older post <S> but we just had the same problem. <S> Ordered the Delta Cassidy widespread faucet which comes with the Delta RP26533OB Pop Up Drain Assembly and the horizontal rod was 4" too short to be able to connect with the lift strap. <S> But luckily thanks to someone else posting a question on the Home Depot user forum, Delta replied with the exact part numbers of all 3 lengths and the size we needed was available on Amazon. <S> The Delta RP26533OB Pop Up Drain Assembly includes the RP12517 Horizontal Rod that is 6 1/8". <S> We have the RP22828 Horizontal Rod that is 8 1/8" in length and the RP33805 Horizontal Rod that is 10 1/8" in length. <S> Disappointing that their own product documentation does not detail out the individual part number or even reference the fact that they offer 3 versions of this part with varying lengths - 6.125", 8.125" and 10.125". <S> Also not sure why they don't have slightly different versions of the faucet so that upon ordering you can get the length you need. <S> Or make the availability of this part as visible as the mounting deck extension kits.
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From what I can tell of the parts diagram , you may be able to slide some hardware off of the original rod and back on to your custom cut rod of the same diameter.
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What kind of glue can be used to join flat drive belt and v-belt? For my special project I need to join flat drive belt with a v-belt (the wider part of it's profile to be precise). Due to the nature of their application such combined part will be rotating with most of the power transfered via the v-belt (it is supposed to be a diy tank track). The joint must be able to bend as the whole contraption will be stretched between two 20cm diameter wheels. I plan to reinforce it with screws or rivets. Could you please advise what kind of glue can do the job? <Q> I'd use Shoe Goo ... <S> it dries rubbery and flexible. <S> Another alternative would be contact cemement <S> (I use DAP, personally, do not get the non-flamable one that cleans up with water), but it's much harder to work with in general. <S> And they're serious about using it outside -- the fumes are very strong. <S> the bond's not great, but if you're reinforcing it, it might be okay. <S> (just don't get the 'repositionable' stuff) <A> If you're going to be rolling a v-belt around two rollers, I don't think you can glue a continuous flat belt to it and have it stick. <S> Unless the flat belt is very flexible along the length of it (which is usually exactly what it's designed NOT to do), you might have a problem with the belts flexing differently. <S> If you get a flat belt and turn it inside out, then you'll be gluing the reinforced tensioning part of the belts together, and it might work. <S> In that case, I'd probably just use contact cement like Joe and Scott say. <A> This late, is probably too much trouble, and might not work anyway. <S> Well, I won't let that stop me! <S> Playing off of @Steve Armstrong's thought that the continuous flat belt probably would stick successfully and given that your application is for a tracked vehicle, how about an approach like this: Rather than gluing the flat belt to the v-belt, what if you cut the flat belt (or some other material) into chunks, each of which is glued (or otherwise attached) to the flat belt. <S> So, the "outer" surface of the track is not a continous flat belt, but is segmented. <S> You might be able to avoid some of the inherent shear that is likely to occur between the continuous flat belt and the v-belt as the "track" rolls around the two (or whatever number you have) rollers.
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If you glue the belts while flat, they won't curve, and if you glue them curved, they'll want to stay curved. And my last choice would be basic rubber cement ...
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Why is my two way dimmer switch not working? So I am putting in a dimmer switch, replacing a simple single pole switch. It is a simple two way, single pole dimmer, should be pretty easy. The existing switch works fine. AFter installation, the light is always on, turning the dimmer off, and moving the slider up and down, the light is always on. Using a voltmeter, I tested the supply and made sure it was hot. after the switch, the line is always 120v, moving the dimmer and silding it the voltage remains at 120v. This is where is gets even weirder. I removed the dimmer, and tested the conductivity. regardless of the position of the dimmer (off or all the way up), there is not conductivity between the wires (using the beeping mode on the meter). Using the resistive setting on the meter, it also confirms that there is no conductivity regardless of the slider settings. So both of these (light always on and no conductivity) would tell me the dimmer is bad, but they are telling me opposite things. The light always on tell me that the dimmer is shorted and always closed, but the meter measurements tell me that the dimmer is always open. Weird. How is this possible? Regardless, this seems like a bad dimmer and I went back to the old switch until I can pick up a new one. For reference, this is the dimmer: http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/GlyderDimmer/Pages/Overview.aspx <Q> The dimmer switch has some solid-state electronics in the path between the electrical mains and the light that it controls: definitely some form of transistor, and most likely one or more MOSFETs . <S> MOSFETs have very high resistance when they're off, well into the gigaohm range (or higher), and very low resistance when on, in the range of 1 ohm (or lower). <S> Other transistors types have a less extreme swing between on- and off-resistance. <A> The reason you might not see any conductivity using a volt meter is because it probably uses Triac thyristors , which are designed for AC, instead of variable resistors which work with both. <S> This still doesn't explain why you're having a problem, unless there's something strange about your power source, or perhaps something strange with the lights. <A> The direct answer to your question is "yes", you have a defective dimmer. <S> You cannot test conductivity on a solid state dimmer with a VOM. <S> Get to the hardware store and your problem will be solved. <S> Good luck.
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The rest of the circuitry in the dimmer is designed to operate on AC mains voltages, so the small DC voltage that your multimeter drives through the dimmer isn't enough to turn on any of the transistors in the conduction path, so you're reading it as being open-circuit.
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Should I add a return air vent in a refinished basement? We are refinishing our basement, and are nearing competition. The walls are drywalled, and the ceiling is dropped. There will be about 500 sq ft of finished space, including a full bathroom, and about 300 sq ft of unfinished space. There are two existing vents from the supply heat / AC directly from the main duct supply, that I plan on extending down the few inches into the dropped ceiling tiles. No problem. My question is that there are no cold air return vents pre-cut and should I add one? I can easily add one, but dont know if this is necessary in the basement. Someone told me that since all the duct is exposed (on the unfinished side and above the dropped ceiling) and the furnace is right in the middle of the basement, this would suffice in allow air circulation in the basement. I dont know if I but that argument. If I do add one, I think I should add it at the floor level, not in the ceiling like the supply vents. This way the warm air (for heat) coming from the ceiling would be circulated to the floor for the return. Should I place it at the floor level? <Q> All the cold air in the house heads to the basement since cold air is heavier than the warm air. <S> Every room should have supply and return registers. <S> you cannot push supply air into a room with out having a way for the air to get out, ( its like a balloon). <S> If you have a central return grill you normally need to have the bottoms of the doors shaved to allow the extra supply air to flow out. <S> If you do not do this then the room will not receive enough air to cool or heat depending on the time of the year <A> Not quite sure if you can say it's a common plenum in the basement if the furnace is in another room. <S> Also - I've never seen a return in the floor. <S> On the wall and in the ceiling. <S> This is speaking from experience working as an HVAC controls field service engineer in my previous life. <S> Running a return should be easy, you could get some flex ducting and run it above your t-bar ceiling. <A> Don't over think it, it's simple. <S> Bottom open during winter, top open during summer. <S> My top ones don't even close. <S> If the bottom ones are open that's where the majority of the air is drawn from Adjust Return Registers for Winter <S> It’s important to remember that hot air rises and cold air falls. <S> By opening the lower registers and closing the top ones you keep hot air in and draw the cold air out. <S> Since cold air is heavy it will automatically flow down to the lower register. <S> Adjust Return Registers for Summer <S> In the summer you want the cold air to remain and the hot air to be drawn out through the return registers. <S> By closing the floor registers and opening the ceiling registers you force the hot air out while keeping the cold air in the room. <S> source
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In the winter you want the cold air to be drawn through the return registers leaving the hot air behind. In some installations a central return duct and grill is installed in a central location to reduce cost,( this has become the norm) but is only to save costs. Yes , add at least 1 return at or near the floor ( in the wall). I'm almost certain any occupied space is required to have a supply and return duct for HVAC.
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How do I find where mice are entering my house? So the house I just finished remodeling, and am now living in, has a small mouse problem. We have caught a couple of mice, and suspect there may be more. Catching the mice does little good, if more mice are just walking on in. I have walked around the entire house, and have found no voids > 1/4" in diameter. There were a few smaller voids (no larger than 1/8") around entry points for wiring/plumbing, which I filled with expanding foam. My question now is- how do I find where the mice are entering the house? Any tips? <Q> Sprinkle flour or talcum powder on the floor. <S> Mice will leave tracks in the powder, eventually revealing entry points or nests. <S> You don't have to blanket the entire floor, just near the walls/borders of the rooms, and "as needed" until you have the evidence you seek. <S> Keep in mind that their typical range is 12-20 feet from their nest. <S> Look for mouse droppings. <S> Use an ultraviolet light to find urine stains. <S> Use light. <S> If you can make the room dark, look for sunlight shining through cracks from outside. <S> Watch for drafts. <S> If you're in a cold climate such as Minnesota, wait until it is -20 degrees <S> Fahrenheit, so that you can feel the cold air blasting through the mouse hole. <S> (That's how I found an entry point recently. <S> The cold air was flowing into a basement crevice such that I could see a spider web waving in the air. <S> Turns out there was a crack where an addition had been put on the house. <A> I've found that mice can get in almost anywhere. <S> I don't know how your house is setup <S> but I have a tree which is relatively near my roof. <S> I've had mice get up on the tree, climb up and into the roof vent. <S> If I were you <S> I'd just drop some money on a good exterminator (check the Better Business Bureau to find a reputable one) and have them get the house a good once over. <S> Mice don't really have any sort of bladder control and just let go wherever they are and leave droppings everywhere <S> so you might find some near the holes that they frequent. <S> DISCLAIMER : <S> I don't mess around when I see one, I go right for the phone and call a pro <S> so my reaction (as well as my response here) is tempered by this aversion. <S> I'm far from an expert on the various vermin that may get into a house, but that would be my recommendation since mice are pretty clever when it comes to squeezing into small spaces. <A> Stop giving them a reason to try and get into your house. <A> If you have a brick house you can put small shreds of paper towel in the weep holes and if you notice any getting pushed out you have found and entry point. <S> Either way these are the most common entry point I know of.
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As for checking on your own, I'd look for a trail of mouse droppings or urine sprays. Or, wait until dark and shine a light through possible cracks, either from inside or outside, and have an assistant on the other side alert you to any light shining through. I only say drop the money on a professional because I REALLY have a strong aversion to mice and bugs, especially when they're in my house. This was confirmed by shining a light as described above.) Make sure you remove the food source they are eating.
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If my air conditioner return line iced over and the fan stopped, is it broken? We've lived in our house for three summers and have never had any problems with the air conditioner. Today I noticed that there was ice on the coolant return line outside the house. I didn't think anything of it. Later in the day (now), the system had shut off. Even though the temperature in the house was much higher than the thermostat setting, neither the air blower nor the fan in the AC unit outside was running. I've read that the ice on the lines may mean that the system is low on coolant. Will simply having the coolant recharged fix the problem? Do I just need to wait for something to thaw? <Q> ice usually means either your air handler isn't pushing enough air across the coil, or your system is out of refrigerant. <S> so first step is to set the cool/off switch to off. <S> then set your fan switch to on. <S> if the air handler fan does not turn on, then you have a problem with your air handler or thermostat. <S> possibly cheap. <S> possibly something you can fix yourself. <S> otherwise, you probably have a problem with refrigerant (which should not deplete, and if it does then you have a leak somewhere) or your compressor. <S> in either case, you should leave your system off to avoid damaging your compressor until someone can come out and look at it. <A> I would check airflow. <S> Have you closed and air vents, is any furniture blocking vents, <S> has any work been done to the ducts, is the filter dirty, is the evaporate coil dirty, is the blower wheel dirty, is the blower spinning at the right speed. <S> Once those things have been confirmed, THEN you check your refrigerant. <S> 70% of the service calls for iced evaporators are from dirty filters/ restricted airflow AND/OR low on charge. <S> Also check for any restrictions in the liquid line (small copper) such as a pinch or Kink. <S> Feel if the line is hot before the kink and cool after. <S> Service and Maintenance are generally based on how good your observations are. <A> A frozen suction line is generally more indicative of poor evaporator coil airflow rather than being low on charge. <S> Before you jump into checking pressures or troubleshooting the furnace/condenser controls, check to make sure your furnace fan is providing proper airflow, the filter is clean and the coil(s) are clean. <A> This is a long shot but check your electrical panel and make sure the circuit breaker for the air conditioner is not tripped. <S> I think the air conditioner unit will be on its own circuit separate from the blower that circulates air throughout your house (at least that is how it is set up in my house). <S> If the air conditioner circuit is tripped, then the AC unit will not go on <S> but still you will be hearing your blower and think everything is working. <A>
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My problem was a bad run capacitor for the blower, With the air handling unit fan (blower) not running properly this caused my suction line to freeze up.
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How to seal small cracks in wood door? We have a solid-core wooden front-door and would like to repaint it as our dog has scratched it many times (ahh the joys of pet ownership). We've sanded down the rough spots on the door but we noticed some hair-line cracks in the groove between the panel and the mullion. The cracks aren't large enough to affect the structural integrity of the door but we're thinking that we'll need to seal it before proceeding with applying the paint. We can't sand it because the crack is in an awkward location on the mullion. What can we use to seal small cracks? Caulk? Wood Epoxy? -M <Q> Caulk or a paintable frame sealant would work. <S> We've used the latter on our Victorian doors to fill gaps between mouldings the body of the door where the wood has shrunk over the years. <S> Make sure you don't overdo it and smooth down the sealant with a damp cloth or finger straight away. <S> This will push the sealant all the way into the gap. <A> If you're painting it, I've found the easiest patching material to use is auto body <S> filler- e.g.- "Bondo." <S> It goes on easy, sands easily, and when painting over it, you see no trace. <S> I use it often when working with MDF- <S> it makes seams, screw holes, etc.. disappear. <A> Since you're going to be painting it afterward, you don't even need to worry about getting a good color match, just sanding to make the repair undetectable. <S> (I've never tried to sand caulk, but I expect the results wouldn't be great. <S> :) <S> Another option would be a wood putty , but I'm not convinced that it would be strong enough to prevent the crack from widening, if there's more structural damage than you know about.
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So, just because it can be sanded once dry, I think a wood epoxy would be best.
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How do I uninstall a receptacle when the wires are stuck? I just installed a receptacle in my basement and I realized I need to reinstall it someplace else. The leads are inserted into the holes behind the receptacle and I can't get them out! The instructions "push to release" are printed on the back of the receptacle with arrows pointing towards slots next to the holes were the leads go in. I'm not sure what or how to push here. I tried inserting the end of a paper clip, which worked once, but almost accidentally. I can't find anything in that slot that disengages the wire. Clearly it's something easy that I'm overlooking, but what? EDIT : Thanks for all the answers. It took me several days before I got back to this project, but the eyeglass screwdriver was what I had on hand and it worked pretty well. The key for me was to push in the part of the slot closer to the edge (rather than the interior) of the receptacle. <Q> A small flat-head electrician's screwdriver should do the trick. <S> The release mechanism is spring-loaded, so with the wire in place, pushes it to one side. <S> Angle <S> the screwdriver slightly <S> and you should be able to disengage it. <A> To get the lock mechanism to release you will need to use a small tool (such as a small screw driver as in @Niall C's answer or even a utility knife or eyeglass screw driver as in @mohlsen's answer or my preference is a small diameter wood awl). <S> The first tricky part is finding that tool that will fit in the hole and then be long enough and have enough strength to press the lock release. <S> You will find some tools get too wide before reaching far enough down (such as the eye glass screw driver). <S> Then if you look into the slot you will see a lever that you need to press (and you should be able to tell which way to press based on the angle of the lever but usually it is to the center of receptacle). <S> Use your tool to press that release lever. <S> The second tricky part is to make sure you are not pulling on the wire while trying to press the locking release mechanism. <S> Otherwise you will be fighting with yourself and the lock will not disengage (since it will catch the wire and not let it go). <S> The complete instructions: With one hand hold the receptacle with the back facing you (difficult to do if you do not have a lot of wire coming from the box). <S> With your other hand, gently push the wire back into the receptacle to relieve pressure on the release latch. <S> With your third hand take the small screwdriver and press the release latch to disengage the lock. <S> The wire will gently come out. <A> If you have a key to an inside door <S> knob - it can unlock a door that has no regular keyhole just a small hole. <S> Many times this key is found on top of the door frame. <S> I just finished using it to replace a wall outlet. <A> I usually use the blade from a utility knife. <S> Is is small and thin, but firm enough to not bend. <S> A slotted screwdriver will work like Niall mentioned, but they are usually too thick to fit in the slot. <S> Perhaps a precision slotted screwdriver from a eyeglasses kit would work too. <A> I usually use my "tweaker" screwdriver (I think it's like a 1/8th inch wide flat blade, used for screwing down control wires on small screw terminals - sold at Sears under the Craftsman Pro label - they have a red 'spinner' top) to push those tabs in. <S> They're definitely a PITA to work with <S> and I try to eliminate those things when I get an opportunity. <S> They seem to have a tendency to not grip wires as tightly as I like. <S> I actually had one of those release a neutral for no apparent reason <S> (I think it worked loose over time) which killed my old dishwasher electronics. <S> I like the receptacles from Cooper which have holes for the wires on the sides of the receptacle in back <S> but you tighten down a screw to get the proper "bite" into the wire. <S> Additionally if you don't strip the wire length JUST RIGHT on those crappy push-in types you either have nice exposed wiring right at the back of your outlet or the push connection pops out when you're making the box up. <S> That was what I realized after fixing that magically released neutral in my kitchen. <A> I've had this same problem. <S> It fits right in, and I wasn't worried about breaking it unlike my nice tools. <S> Just pick one up at a dollar store. <A> I came up with another solution today. <S> Use a wood screw or a sheet metal screw, and screw it into the release hole. <S> The screw provides the pressure, so you don't have to push and pull at the same time. <S> I used an electric screw driver, and it was so easy to do this way. <A> If you can't get the wire out, tear the receptacle apart until you can. <S> Once you break the plastic housing, you shouldn't have any trouble, they usually just disintegrate at that point. <S> Remember the rule: if you spend more than nine minutes to save a dollar, you're working for less than minimum wage. <A> I recently came across a receptacle that had "single use" printed on the back near the wire holes, and there was no release mechanism. <S> I had to cut the wires and use the screws on the side to reattach them.
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One thing to try is to push the wire into the receptacle and then press the lock release and then gently pull the wire out. I have a bunch of tools that will fit in the release, but a crappy all metal fork is what I used. Receptacles cost less than a dollar each.
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How do I remove drip marks in flat paint on smooth interior walls? I recently had the walls and ceiling in my home office refinished with a smooth texture. When I was painting the walls, in a couple of the corners, I bumped the roller against the adjacent wall. I didn't notice this until after the paint dried so now I have circular drip marks in a couple of spots. The paint is a flat interior latex. How can I remove these marks without damaging the nice new texture (that I paid a not insignificant amount of money to get)? Tools and supplies I have to hand include: full sheets of sandpaper in various grits, hand sander w/ also with various grits (I think 220 is the finest), Roto-Zip (but without any of the buffing/sanding/polishing accessories). I can be convinced to get other tools or supplies within reason. :) <Q> Hold the blade almost flat to the wall <S> so it doesn't dig in to the surrounding paint. <S> Then you'll just have that little circle to touch up with a dab from the corner of your brush. <S> This also works for other similar blemishes like roller fuzz or small chunks of latex. <A> How about just using an Extra Fine Sanding Sponge : <A> Elbow grease, however, may not be the best approach. <S> If the paint is relatively new than lightly sand the high spot by letting the sandpaper do the work. <S> It may take some time and several passes. <S> The friction from the sanding tools can soften the paint if it is not completely dry. <S> Use a 80-100 grit open coat sand paper to knock down the ridge so it is almost level with surrounding area. <S> Than switch to a 120-150 grit paper for a final and smooth finish.
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The sanding sponges work great. If the painting was recent (within say a month or so), and is still a bit rubbery, you can do a great job using a single-edge razor blade to slice off just the offending drip.
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How do I remove glued-on carpet? I'm trying to remove carpet from a small closet in our bathroom (at most 3.5 ft by 3.5 ft). I started to remove it and it looks to have been glued around the perimeter. What's the easiest way to remove it? I recently bought a oscillating multi-tool so I'm wondering if that would work to loosen up the edges. -M UPDATE: I lucked out -- only part of the carpet was glued... the rest was actually nailed in and came up easy. That being said, as a future homeowner, I'd like to hear suggestions for how to tackle this type of issue in the future. <Q> First, cut away the non-glued part with a craft knife or carpet knife . <S> Next, pull individual strands of the pile away from the mesh using a pliers. <S> Optionally, sand down the remaining bits of the carpet using your multi-tool. <S> Finally (and also optionally), patch any damage to the plywood subfloor with wood filler. <S> The last two steps are optional because it's in a small closet where nobody's going to notice any slight unevenness in the floor. <A> I had some low pile carpet that was glued down to the subfloor in an addition of my house -- it was one of the first things I took out. <S> (although, I didn't get around to re-laying floor ' <S> til some time after ... <S> but the carpet was so nasty <S> , it had to go, as it was near a not-quite secured door, and a bird managed to get in there and die) <S> I ended up cutting the carpet into managable strips (about 2-3 feet wide), then getting under it with something similar to a garden edger. <S> (but it had a flat blade, not curved ... <S> looks more like this 'scraper' ) <S> I'm not sure what the tool was sold as ... <S> I was storing my step-dad's gardening and other tools while he was stationed overseas. <S> It came up fairly easily, but there were globs of glue that I did some further scraping / belt sander / etc before laying new flooring (a bamboo floating floor) <A> I scraped up sections of carpet with an ice scraper. <S> I then poured small amounts of lacquer thinner on the wood floor and waited a few minutes for the glue to soften. <S> Caution was used with flammability issues and fumes but it easily came up with this method.
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I used the scraper to get it clean to the wood.
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Should I drill a large hole through a double paned window? I have a laundry room in the basement. There is no exhaust vent for the dryer. Currently we just open the window when drying, but this is not the greatest solution. There is a window and it is double paned glass. It seems to me this is probably the easiest option. I am afraid of damaging the window of course. Should I try drilling/cutting the hole in the window for the dryer vent? Or should I have a professional do it? The other option would be to drill a vent hole in the foundation. The window itself is "European Style" in that it has a hinge on one side to be opened inwards and can also be "tipped" inwards. FYI- I am in Europe and they do not use a lumber flooring system(here it is all concrete + cinder blocks), otherwise I would just go up and through the floor joists the old fashioned way. ;-) <Q> NO!!!The vent will expand and contract and break the glass. <S> You need to go through the cinder blocks (preferable, but if you must, go through the concrete). <S> Also, with double paned glass, there is usually an inert gas (or Nitrogen) sealed in between the panes. <S> Drilling it will break the seal. <S> My advice <S> : Get someone to do it for you. <S> It is unlikely you have the drill/bit combination required for the job. <S> It's cheaper to pay someone than to buy the tools. <A> Let me echo everything that Chris just said so well. <S> Especially the part about NO!!! <S> Drilling a hole through a double pane window will reduce the efficiency of the window. <S> And you surely do not have the tools or the skills to drill such a hole. <S> On top of that you do NOT want to breath in any glass dust from drilling that hole. <S> Silicosis is a nasty way to die. <S> An alternative is to take out the window completely. <S> Replace it with glass block, mortared in place, with a hole made the proper size for a vent. <S> Or create a hole through the wall next to the window for your vent. <A> One option you might want to consider depends on whether you really need <S> that window in your laundry room. <S> It should be much easier to make a suitable hole for your dryer hose in that <S> and when you come to sell your house, you simply refit the double glazing unit and it is as good as it is now. <S> I did something similar when a friend needed to fit a cat-flap into the lower half of a door of a rented flat. <A> First - stop running the dryer without a vent immediately. <S> Lint is extrememely flamable. <S> I would look a replacing the window with part wood and part glass, similiar to what woodchips suggests.
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It will almost surely crack when you tried to drill it, if not, then later. If not, then you could remove the entire glass double glazing unit and replace it with an insulated board of the same dimensions. We couldn't make any structural changes, but found a cheap insulated board, made the hole, fitted it into the door and kept the old panel in a safe place so that we could re-fit it when she left.
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What is your best wire management solution for an entertainment system and a home office? What gadgets or devices have you used to help manage wires or cords at home for the entertainment system are and for the home office? <Q> It's by no means an all-in-one solution <S> but I've personally found Velcro Cable Ties to be INVALUABLE. <S> You can reuse them over and over; great for those "oh darn!" <S> moments when you need to remove or replace a cable. <S> -M <A> For home office I am a big fan of the Ikea Signum . <S> It is a wire basket, with hooks for wires that attaches and hangs under a desk. <S> What I have done is zip-tie a power strip to the underside of the basket, and route all of the wires up into the basket, then route as much wire as I need up to items on the desk (computer, monitor, printer, etc..). <S> It works quite well, and takes care of the wire mess. <S> I also use zip-ties liberally to bundle wires. <S> For a home entertainment system, I have had good luck with routing wires down the back, and using zip-ties. <A> I use a velcro cable wrap ( this one, actually ) for anywhere visible (on my desk behind my monitors, and upstairs in my living room behind my TV). <S> It's a braided sleeve which has velcro running the entire length, which wraps around a bundle of cables. <S> It's relatively easy to add/ <S> remove cables to this, and it's also very easy to allow individual cables to come out at any point along the length of it to go to where they need to go. <S> This lets you have a nice looking black "trunk" that passes by everything and contains ALL cables. <S> I found it at a local store one day for <$1/ft, so I bought a bunch. <S> Obviously the pricing varies - one of the places I linked above has it for $44, and it's not worth that much. <S> This store has some other similar products. <S> Zip ties are terrible to use behind desks or entertainment centers, because you have to cut them to remove/add cables and that is often difficult in a cramped space. <A> I keep my entertainment system on wire shelves, so most of my cables are tied to the posts / legs of the shelves. <S> Of course, I also still have an old CRT television. <S> For much of my networking gear (power distribution, DSL modem, network switches, wireless router, small server, etc.), I have it mounted to a sheet of plywood in the basement along with the punch block and patch panel for the house. <S> I've got cable tie mounts screwed in, and then old-fashioned plastic cables ties. <S> The only thing that's not wall mounted is the old VGA 9" monitor (640x480 <S> in 4 bit monochrome!), keyboard and the UPS. <S> For office, well, I have another set of wire shelves in the closest room that I have in there, but I take stuff off the shelves as needed (scanners, sewing machine, embroidery machine, etc). <S> The cables are either tied up with velcro straps with the slots in them or with twist-ties (that are actually pairs pulled out of the scrap left over from running twisted pair (eg, CAT5 of better, but it has to be solid, not stranded like what's in patch cables)). <S> My main computer these days is a laptop, so I only use that room for scanning, or when I need to hook up to a larger display.
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For non-visible stuff, I'll echo others here, I just use velcro ties, twist ties, or zip ties, depending on how permanent it is (and what I have on hand).
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Is it necessary to sand before the last coat of oil paint? When I'm painting high-gloss oil-based on woodwork (architraves, skirtingboards, windows), I have been following the tin's advice and sanding between all coats. I don't resent sanding after the undercoat/primer because it helps provide a smooth finish, but the final sand often takes the paint off sharp edges, even when I am careful, which can leave them a bit dark after the final coat. Is this final sand necessary? <Q> It depends ;) <S> I don't tend to do a final sand for the very reason you mention. <S> However there have been times when the finish hasn't been to my liking <S> so I have sanded - but in these cases I use the finest grade paper and sand very lightly to just take off the drips and/or dust flecks that have settled on the wood. <S> So if the penultimate coat is good you might be OK without sanding, but sanding does provide something for the final coat to bind to if the previous coat was applied some time ago, so ultimately it will provide a more durable finish. <S> If you are painting the second coat as soon as the first coat is dry then you don't need to bother. <A> IMO it's not worth it. <S> Sanding has two primary goals. <S> First of all, it compensates for the surface defects. <S> In case of woodwork it also removes the wood fibers that get raised from the surface when applying paint and are fixed still in the paint layer and thus make the surface less even. <S> Since this is not the first layer of paint you have likely compensated for all the defects and you've surely sanded away all raised wood fibers, so you will likely not get any real benefits from sanding. <S> From my experience - I've coated wood table with two layers of oil-based lacquer. <S> Sanding made huge difference for the first layer, but after I applied the second layer the surface was as even as before the second layer. <A> I think there are three good reasons to not sand between the last and previous coats of oil based paint as long as the earlier coat has not dried very hard over an extended delay. <S> You don't want any dust between the two coats; You don't want to remove paint thickness, after all the point is to put paint on, not take it off and pollute the air unnecessarily; <S> With regard to sanding producing a key, that is partly necessary upon very hard surfaces, and those which may have some contamination like grease fragments or dirt. <S> I would just sand where the recent earlier finish is imperfect, i.e. dust, hair or other imperfections, then be sure to remove the dust with a microfibre cloth, better than a tack cloth which can leave a residue.
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Definitely I wouldn't sand the second layer if I wanted to apply the third one.
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How do I achieve required torque when using an impact driver? There's such tool called impact driver (like this one for example). The manual says it uses a special mechanism to produce a series of torque impulses to fasten/loosen nuts and screws. The tool has only two adjustments - the forward/reverse switch and the On/Off switch. The deeper the On/Off switch is pressed the faster the tool motor rotates. There's no clutch to adjust the torque value after which the clutch would disconnect the motor. How do I control the torque without a clutch? Suppose I need to assemble a section of fence that will require say one thousand screw/nut connections with nuts of the same size (that's not an imaginary task - I did such job without an impact driver). Obviosly I need to tighten all nuts to more or less the same torque. If I overtighten a nut it can just break or cut the screw or bend the parts it connects - that's bad. If I undertighten a nut it will soon loosen and fall out - that;s bad as well. So let's pretend I use nuts that need to be tightened to approximately 70 Newton-meters and the driver I use is said to produce torque up to 100 Newton-meters. And of course I need to drive those nuts fast - otherwise why would I use a power tool instead of a screwdriver and a usual wrench? So obviously I can't time the periods of applying torque or count impacts or whatever else - I need some reliable way to achieve more or less the same right torque for all nuts. Please note: I don't care of achieving exactly the right torque. I only care of achieving more or less the required torque - so that the nuts don't loosen on themselves and parts are not damaged while the nuts are being tightened. The primary concern is that the driver works very fast, so if I hold the switch pressed for just too long I can easily overtighten the nut and cause unintended damage. How do I achieve roughly the same torque repeatedly for multiple nuts when using an impact driver? <Q> "How do I achieve the same torque repeatedly for multiple nuts when using an impact driver?" <S> Short of manually using a torque wrench like woodchips recommends, you don't. <S> The point of an impact driver is not to apply a consistent torque. <S> It is to apply more torque than can be obtained from a traditional driver. <S> One of the more common uses is to loosen seized up, or over-tightened bolts/screws. <S> I also use mine quite a bit when driving screws into wood when the final torque doesn't matter (e.g.- I just need the screw head to be slightly below the surface of the wood.. <S> rough work). <S> In other words, if your need is consistent torque, an impact driver is not the tool for the job. <S> A traditional clutched driver is going to be more appropriate. <A> I would get all the bolts driven, quickly, but not tightly using the torque driver. <S> Don't cinch them down. <S> Then walk along and use a hand held torque wrench on each. <A> Usually, around the home anyway, there are other signs to let you know when you've applied enough torque. <S> MarkD noted a common one -- when you see the screw head just go below the surface of the wood. <S> In your fencing example, if you're tightening lag screws or nuts with washers, you'll see the washer start to sink into the wood long before you've applied enough torque to shear off or strip the screw or bolt. <S> It's a great tool for this kind of work, and it's super fast. <S> Don't slow yourself down unnecessarily by underestimating your own ability to judge how much torque you've applied, and how much is enough for your application. <A> The torque applied to a faster by an impact wrench can be controlled by a torque limiting extension bar. <S> The torque limiting extension bar looks like a normal socket extension, except that they are designed to flex at a predefined torque. <S> This flex absorbs the impacts from the wrench and stops the transmission of energy to the fastener at the predefined torque. <S> The extension bars come in kits and are usually color coded for different torque values. <S> For example a black bar for 30 ft/lb, green for 65 ft/lb and so on. <A> It's a matter of clamping the later, which has been set to the desired reading, in some way. <S> Start with the impact driver set somewhat lower than the desired setting and connect the two using whatever socket extension joiner you have available. <S> Now gradually adjust the impact driver till it makes the torque wrench clicks or does whatever it does when it's up to its setting.
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Assuming the torque can in fact be adjusted you can use a regular hand-help torque wrench to get a pretty close calibration.
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Should I put caulk/silicone at base of toilet on hardwood floors? When installing a toilet in a bathroom with hardwood floors, should I put a bead of silicone or caulk around the base to finish things up? Is this necessary, or is it merely aesthetics? I have heard that I should put silicone down, but not caulk. I'm not sure if this is true or not, or how it's determined. <Q> I think you're confusing the terms "caulk" and "silicone" for the colors "white" and "clear". <S> A lot of caulks are made from silicone rubber, and they can be white or clear (or other colors). <S> To answer your question, I would use a clear caulk around the base of the toilet as it will look better next to the wood. <S> Leave a small gap at the back of the toilet so that if you do have leaks, they'll have somewhere to drain to <S> and you'll be able to tell. <A> No you never silicone a toilet to the floor. <S> If you do and have a leak, you won't be able too tell until it's too late. <S> Then if you do have a leak and can't tell, there goes your floor. <A> You should use sanitary silicone I think.
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I've always used caulk because it prevents any, uh, splashes, from running under the toilet where they'd be hard to clean up.
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Is installing a chimney liner a DIY project? My chimney (25ft approximately, one story house) was recently inspected and the guy recommended a chimney liner for the furnace due to the grouting having been eaten away. He quoted $2000 for the parts and labor. It looks like this should be a fairly simple thing to install, not only that but the most expensive and largest diameter kit I could find online was still well under $1000. Is this a reasonable DIY project?What sort of surprises should I be aware of? (i.e. needing to expand the hole in the basement) <Q> How high is your chimney? <S> We're looking at installing a wood burner and had someone round to quote. <S> We discussed the options and they were adamant that they would need scaffolding erecting to reach the top of the chimney. <S> They said that manoeuvring the liner up the outside of the house would be nearly impossible without it. <S> Now our's is a three storey house <S> so that's a lot of scaffolding <S> and I expect that to be a major part of the cost. <S> So the quote could well include that which you might not have accounted for. <S> This would make it, for me, something I'd be happy to pay someone to do. <S> We fitted a lightweight pipe in another chimney where we had access to the top from inside the house and that was very easy, but a heavy weight liner for a fire/furnace would be a different matter altogether. <S> In your case - for a single storey house <S> the cost of scaffolding (if any) will be a lot less. <S> What you should do is to ask for a quote that's broken down into parts. <S> So you want to know (as a minimum): <S> the cost of materials (not just the pipe) <S> the cost of labour the cost of scaffolding (if any) the cost of removing waste - in the UK <S> this can be significant <S> Given that the cost of the pipe you found was less than $1,000, $2,000 for the whole job doesn't seem too outrageous when you consider the other factors. <S> As a rule of thumb I look at the cost of the parts and then double it to account for the labour charges. <A> I had a chimney liner installed in my old one story house. <S> I hired a chimney company install it. <S> They installed a solid one piece liner from the roof down the chimney. <S> The part that looked like it required the most skill was mixing the masonry mix to the right consistency and applying it inside the fireplace, so it wouldn't fall out. <S> They also came back to inspect to make sure nothing had cracked. <S> Given the fact that he chimney is one of the most important fire prevention measures in your house, I wouldn't risk it to a DIY job. <A> Installing a flue liner is NO job for a DIY'er. <S> There are several considerations that must be answered before a new liner can be installed. <S> First and foremost, the existing flue must be cleaned completely and inspected with a camera to determine the condition of the existing mortar joints. <S> Entry points of thimbles must be inspected as well and assured that they are properly sized and isolated from combustibles. <S> When adding a flue liner to an old existing chimney it is imperative that all old tile liners are removed, to assure proper drafting, flue must be properly sized to the height and type of fuel being used. <S> Besides the obvious fire hazards the other major concern is carbon monoxide. <S> An improperly installed or sized flue can be a silent killer. <S> Seek a couple of quotes and perhaps look at the "SuperFlue" monolithic pour system. <S> This type of job is best left to experienced pros.
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It may cost more than trying to doing it yourself, but will be a lot cheaper than having a pro come in to fix your mistakes, plus you can sleep well at night knowing that that warming fire in your house is your friend and not a potential killer. I am a general contractor and wouldn't consider doing that job myself, I always hire a certified chimney specialist.
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How to reduce noise while drilling? Unfortunately I can only drill in the late afternoon or during weekends, but my area is very quiet and I would really like to avoid driving my neighbours mad... So is there anything I can do to make drilling (masonry) less noisy? <Q> Not really. <S> Drilling is an inherently noisy activity. <S> There may be low noise drills, but the act of rubbing hardened steel against brick at high speed will make a lot of noise. <S> Lower speeds will reduce the noise, but you will take longer to make the hole. <S> Using the hammer action will increase the noise, so try and avoid that if possible. <S> The best you can do is talk to your neighbours and explain what you are doing and when you'll be working. <S> Ask them if there are any times they'd prefer you not to drill and try to stick to these times. <S> I'm assuming you're doing large scale renovations to your house - so give them an idea of how long you'll be working on the project. <S> If they can see an end in sight, they might be more forgiving of a bit of noise and disturbance now for a quiet life later. <A> Also how you drill matters. <S> If you need to make a series of holes you better make them in long series with short pauses instead of one-by-one with long pauses. <S> The more you concentrate your activity in time the easier it is for others to tolerate it - they can for example go out for that period instead of sitting home listening to noise all day long. <S> And finally user <S> ChrisF is sooo right about you having to talk to your neighbours - being considerate to other people <S> is very important in such cases. <S> Being neighbours is a mutual relationship after all. <A> Many impact drills can be set part way between impact and non-impact. <S> Try a setting in between (the drill may or may not change it by itself), as that will reduce the noise quite significantly, albeit at the expense of efficiency. <S> Depending on the hardness you are drilling you may even be able to drill without impact. <S> According to a representative from Ramset, a local manufacturer of masonry drill bits, most people run their drills much too fast, which not only creates a lot more noise but also shortens the life of the bit. <S> Their recommendation is no more than 700RPM for up to 1/4" bits and proportionately slower for larger ones. <A> Let your neighbors know ahead of time, and bribe them with cookies or something. <S> People can be very accommodating if you let them be.
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Also try slowing the drill down. Technically your only option is to replace an impact drill with a pneumatic hammer - the latter drills much faster (so you produce noise for shorter periods) and the noise is different - lower frequencies (IMO less annoying).
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What are some cost-effective tips for reducing external sound from entering a room? I have a small office room that shares a wall with our living room. When we have guests over, their voices travel fairly well; they sound somewhat muffled but are still audible. As I work from home occasionally, I'd like to reduce any/all noise as much as I can. I'm not sure where exactly the noise is coming from... we do have central heating air ducts but the register is on the opposite wall... there's not much of a gap for the office door... maybe it's just coming through the wall itself? Oddly enough, if I check sound levels from the adjacent room (on the OTHER side of the office), the noise from the living room is still there too (maybe a LITTLE softer but not by much). Could someone provide some "sound-proofing" tips? Or perhaps ways to troubleshoot this further? I'm on a limited budget so I can't really afford to tear down walls. Not sure if there's insulation... -M <Q> Step 1: Prevent air transmission between the rooms. <S> Sweeps for the door or a heavier door; look at the heating registers and windows; things like that. <S> You're saying the sound is muffled, which implies the high frequencies aren't making it in, so I don't think this is the major problem. <S> Step 2: <S> Damp the transmitted vibration . <S> Put big heavy bookcases on the wall between the two rooms (which side doesn't matter so much). <S> Blow heavy insulation into the wall between. <S> Hang a heavy quilt on the wall. <S> Step 3: Break up the sound in the source room. <S> Use natural diffusers (heavy sofas with heavy foam pillows work great, or the aforementioned bookcase with loads of stuff on it), or buy foam diffusers to stick in the corners/edges of the room. <S> Step 4 <S> : Give up and wear sound-cancellation headphones ...or install a white-noise generator in your office (either a fan-type one, or a water feature if you like more 'natural' sounds). <S> See also <S> How Do You Reduce Floor Sound Transmission for more details. <A> You might want to drill a test hole in the wall to see if it's insulated, if not some blown in cellulose or expandable foam insulation should help. <S> It's a bit of labor but a cheaper solution than tearing down drywall. <S> If you eventually want to go with the full monty and tear down the drywall there is a product called QuietRock , it's similar to drywall and hangs like drywall except it has sound deadening qualities, but since you're on a budget, the blow in cellulose insulation or sprayfoam insulation may be your best bet. <A> If the sound is reaching the other side of the office, it may be traveling along the ceiling. <S> If there's another floor above the office, you probably don't have anything -- like insulation -- blocking sound waves from traveling along the joists and/or the spaces between them. <S> , I see lots of conflicting advice on what to use as the filling in the sandwich, from a thick bead of regular caulk, to specialty compounds , to rubber matting. <S> I looked into this for soundproofing my bedroom walls when I had them open to replace the windows, but decided not to bother because the windows were doing a good job of reducing sound levels by themselves. <S> If you go this route, there's probably a spectrum of performance and cost-effectiveness <S> so you'd need to work out what's best for you. <S> EDIT: <S> Thought of something else you could try: seal around the openings for electrical outlets and light switches with caulk, and use foam gaskets underneath the cover plates to help baffle the sound. <A> Three answers - insulation, insulation, insulation. <S> Blown in insulation is an option, requiring only relatively small holes to patch. <S> As pointed out, sound can travel through a variety of conduits. <S> So you may need to get some into the ceiling or floors too. <S> Ducting between rooms can be a problem, especially metal ducts. <S> If not blown in, you can drill small holes into the wall cavity, then use the canned foam stuff. <S> It will expand heavily, so be VERY careful here. <S> Squirt a little in, then add more. <S> Next, add wall coverings, perhaps drapes. <S> Soft surfaces will help. <S> They make sound absorbent wallpapers. <S> If the floors in the rooms are not carpeted, consider adding carpeting. <A> In addition to the insulation recommended, I would also look into a solid core door and maybe even a doorsweep. <S> Also look for the obvious like a registers on the shared wall. <A> Add furnishings to the living room that absorb the sound, like an area carpet, curtains, irregularly-shaped wall coverings, bookcases filled with books, stuffed furniture. <A> As we know sound travels in waves, when sound hits a wall some of sound will bounce back into the room and some will transfer through the wall. <S> In this case you can use wall soundproofing panels with high density (material) plasterboard. <S> Now a days, acoustic hangers are mostly used in the construction of walls and ceilings that are designed to reduce sound transfer from one place to another.
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Something to consider for blocking sound coming through the walls or ceilings would be to add another layer of drywall, separated from the first with a thin layer of vibration-damping material: searching for this technique Insulation will help you lot in this case.
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What is a strong glue for bonding metal? I have a (cheap) garage door that has the metal frames/hinges connected to the actual metal door by some kind of glue. The glue on one part of the frame has broken off. What is a glue that is strong enough to hold 2 pieces of metal together? This is about a 1.5 foot length of metal that is about 1/4 inch wide. The garage door opener connects to this piece so there is quite a lot of push/pull and vibration, so it needs to be very well bonded. <Q> This-to-That recommends JB-weld or LePage's Metal Epoxy. <S> I've never used either, personally. <S> The important thing for this is going to be surface prep and clamping, I would assume. <S> You might be able to use a CA glue (ie, "super glue"), but you'll need additional reinforcement to keep the bond from shearing (eg, glue then bolt it in place, but 1/4" is kinda narrow to bolt through; also, I have no idea what sort of clearance issues there might be if there are bolts sticking out) <A> Instead of glue, do you know anyone with a welder that could weld the pieces together? <S> I don't know of any glue that will dry that strong. <S> I've tried several metal to metal epoxies and they don't hold up under much strain. <S> If the garage door opener mechanism connects to the piece <S> it's going to be put under a pretty hefty strain <S> and I'd be wary of any type of glue. <S> If that joint pops off it could be potentially bad. <S> My advice would be to find a friend or local handyman with a welder. <A> I would drill and pop rivet them followed by Araldite glue in between joints. <A> Thin steel garage doors ARE NOT WELDED. <S> the material is too thin and the surface is stamped and not to be disrupted by spot welds or rivets. <S> That said, in automotive body panels we don't weld them anymore <S> we glue them with 3M 8815 panel bond. <S> Other products will work too such as 08116. <S> This stuff is stronger than a weld, holds up to vibration. <S> Don't listen to the old nonsense by these non-engineering types. <S> I built an entire metal frame building and used panel bond to hold the panels together. <S> It easily handed a hurricane. <S> I have been building with composites since I was a kid. <S> My Dad was a scientist that developed epoxy. <S> So I have absolute faith in the new materials and composites. <S> In fact, I see no reason why panel bond could not be used in place of welding of floor panels in cars. <S> The bond would not leak would not fatigue with vibration and would not lose shape due to heat. <S> I have built composites for car quarter panels rather than welding and they look perfect after twenty years. <S> I have been doing this a long time. <S> So go for it. <A> Methyl methacrylate <S> (MMA) 2 part adhesives offer a range of varying characteristics suited to individual applications - viscosity, elongation/flexibility in cured material, colour, temperature and chemical resistance... <A> It has a high strength rating of <S> , I believe, 3960 PSI. <S> You can buy it at Walmart even. <S> For bigger jobs you may have to get the professional size which is 2-5oz tubes instead of 2-1oz tubes. <S> Mix the two together following instructions and you will have an incredible bond. <S> It can even be drilled or sanded afterwards if needed. <S> The only caveat is that you really need to make sure the surfaces are clean and free of any dirt, rust, oils or any other foreign matter.
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"J-B Weld" original cold weld formula, should more then do the trick. There are a number of adhesives on the market that will achieve a strong structural metal to metal (or metal to composite) bond.
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Where can I find LED indoor floodlights? Where can I find LED Indoor Floodlights? I have recessed lighting and one of the lights over a nook in my house gets the person hot who sits under the light for too long - plus LED is more energy efficient. I currently have a halogen indoor flood light installed. <Q> Most of the major lighting manufacturers are starting to produce LED spots and floods for can lighting - the only downside is they're not cheap. <S> I've been seeing them at various home improvement centers for 60-100 dollars a bulb depending on the type and wattage. <S> Sylvania LED flood @ <S> Home Depot <A> There are LED or other low wattage versions of a lot of light fitting available. <S> What you need to do is take out the current bulb to check its size, type and rating and then either go down to your local hardware store or search online for the LED/energy saving equivalent. <S> However, as @Joe points out, you need to be careful as LEDs radiate the heat differently to normal bulbs <S> so you need to make sure you get one that's rated for use in this manner. <A> I second <S> all the above - LED is the way to go. <S> Home Depot (here in Central Florida) also has an LED replacement for the recessed lighting fixture that's a warm white, not a blue-white. <S> Their prices are also better, especially on the EcoSmart line. <S> The down light replacement is roughly $50, and the PAR 30 bulb itself will run roughly $40-ish depending on whether you go to HD ($40) or Target ($41).
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You can also get the recessed light floods in LED form at Target down here, although Home Depot really seems to have the best selection in a lot of areas.
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How do I attach a ledger board if I have no interior access? I would like to build a small, 24" high deck, for a new entry door to the house. I have the deck plans all laid out, and am in need of a 2x10 ledger board under the door to attach the deck to. Most of what I have read on attaching a ledger board, suggests using large carriage-bolts through the ledger board and rim joist, with a nut/washer on the back side. Unfortunately, this section of the house has a finished basement, and it would be quite difficult if not impossible to access the back side of the rim joist. What other options do I have? Would some hefty lag-screws work? <Q> DANGER DANGER DANGER.... <S> As we speak, I am replacing an entire 5 foot knee wall 20 feet long, jacking the floor joists, new studs, mold remediation, new sills, new top plates, new insulation, floor joist sisters, a very expensive 6 foot slider is in jeopardy. <S> This fix is gonna cost my customer over $3,000 minimum Ants and rot everywhere, all the way to the concrete. <S> Why you ask? <S> The deck ledger was lag bolted to the the house through the vinyl siding!!!! <S> no flashing or Grace ice and water shield under the door or around the ledger, not to speak about invading the water tite integrity of the siding itself. <S> Water seeped in the wall for the last 10 years. <S> everything in the wall was wet and mold was starting to show on the interior sheetrock. <S> 24 inches is not high. <S> Consider a plan where the deck is free standing and stands a 1/2 inch away from the building, and you will avoid all these potential problems. <S> Seriously, if you don't know how to place a ledger and water proof it completely and then reinstall vinyl siding under the deck and adjacent to it etc. <S> , then seek a bit of professional advise or go to a self supporting deck. <S> simple cross bracing will make a very stable deck not attached to house. <A> Lag screws should be fine. <S> If possible, have them go into the ends of the floor joists as well. <S> You can probably see where they are from the outside by looking at where the nails are in the rim joist. <A> Do yourself a favor. <S> Yes, you can bolt things to the joists. <S> Through bolts are better, but if it is not an option, then you do what you can. <S> The issue is, if you do just bolt this to the wall of your house, use flashing. <S> Keep the water from getting into your house. <S> By way of example, we have a deck on our house that wraps around part of the house. <S> The person who did the deck just bolted a treated 2x10 to the wall, though the rim joists, right through the vertical cedar siding. <S> Then they ran joists and a deck on top. <S> Of course, this creates a place for water to collect. <S> The crevice collects leaves, acorns, small sticks, seeds, etc. <S> That is a breeding ground for carpenter ants. <S> Worse, the deck actually wicks water to the house. <S> So I must go around twice a year with an air hose, blasting the junk out. <S> Then I spray for ants. <S> One day, I'll get tired of this and tear the deck surface off, adding proper flashing to prevent these problems. <S> Do the job right the first time. <A> Use these LedgerLOK fasteners . <S> They're like lag screws but smaller diameter, and are engineered just for this purpose. <A> 3/8" or 1/2" lag screws spaced to code specs. <S> Definitely pre-drill a pilot hole of appropriate size. <S> Also, try to at least fasten a metal drip edge between the top of your ledger board and the next piece of siding and then caulk it well with silicone. <S> And also take a good look at construction guidelines for attached decks because the bigger they are and the more they are deflected by walking or wind, the more force will be transfered into the framing of your home. <S> I am not a builder <S> but I've learned the hard way that energy only changes forms. <S> ** p.s. <S> - this is with the assumption you've taken off the hardboard siding or whatever is covering the framing you are attaching to, although I think that is covered. <S> I simply added my voice to this conversation because I just did this same project very recently. <S> * <S> *
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Heavy lag bolts are probably ok.
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How do I make my floors more stable? My builder did (what seems to me) a cut rate job on my floors. When I walk around in my house my table and entertainment center (and other such things) shake as I walk past them. (Heaven help me if someone jumps!) My basement is not finished, so I can get at the underside of my floors. What can I do to make them more sturdy? What immediately pops to mind is just go an measure and cut a bunch of 2x4s and put them cross ways. Does that sound like a good idea? Are there hidden gotchas? Is there a better way? <Q> It sounds like the joists aren't properly fixed to the walls or they aren't big enough for the task at hand - keeping your floors up. <A> I am not a home builder, but my guess is... <S> They did not glue down the subfloor. <S> The joists are simply too small, or not properly anchored at the ends. <S> There is no cross bracing between the joists. <S> This will leave them more flexible. <S> All of these things will help to stabilize a floor. <S> When the various members are solidly locked together, your house will be come quiet and stable. <S> You might go into the basement and look carefully at what happens when someone walks heavily around upstairs. <S> What is flexing? <S> How is it moving? <S> Definitely talk to an inspector or engineer to get a good explanation of what was done wrong. <S> Find somebody you can trust. <S> Of course, getting the builder to make it right will be difficult, and anyway do you really trust the cheapskate to do it <S> right even then? <S> Were it me, I might consider adding a sister beam alongside a few of the existing joists that are flexing. <S> You can even use liquid nails to glue it to the subfloor when you put the sister beam in place. <S> This will stiffen them. <S> Add cross braces, in the shape of an X between the joists. <S> For a few hundred dollars out of pocket, you can do a great deal to reduce the problem. <A> You could add additional bearers if that's practical (I don't know the construction methods used where you are). <S> i.e. You install bracing from the top of one joist to the bottom of the adjacent joists, and vice versa. <S> While this won't entirely compensate for what appears to be insubstantial joists it will help because each joist will better assist its neighbours to support the load and reduce flexing. <A> I'm sure you want this repair to be as minimally invasive as possible, but if you're considering replacing carpet or installing new flooring... <S> Laminating the subfloor can do a lot to stiffen it up as well. <S> Adding bracing underneath may be helpful, but sometimes very difficult in practice. <S> Laminating another sheet to the existing subfloor is usually a relatively simple procedure and generally very effective. <S> Flooring contractors do this to support heavy tile floors or to eliminate creaking/flexing - they'll ensure the old subfloor is solid and attached firmly to the flooring joists, and then sheet over the top, glue/screw the new sheeting to the old subfloor while ensuring the joints are staggered between the old floor and the new sheet. <S> In essence you're creating a 1"+ thick sheet for your subfloor which should be pretty solid underfoot. <S> Good luck!
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Running a bead of liquid nails on the joists just before you lay down a sheet of plywood greatly locks things together. Alternatively, cross-brace the joists. I'd get another builder in to take a look and quote for remedial work and then try and get the first builder to either sort out the problem or pay for someone else to do the work.
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Can I replace an outlet that uses knob and tube wiring with a grounded outlet? Can I replace an outlet that uses knob and tube wiring with a grounded outlet? Obviously the best choice would be to replace the old wiring. Is there a standard way to ground these outlets? Do I need to run a wire back to the circuit breaker box? Do I have even the slightest idea of what I'm trying to ask? <Q> If you need a receptacle that can accept a grounded plug but don't actually have a need for grounding, you have two options: (1) a GFCI-type receptacle marked with the words “No equipment ground,” and (2) a three-prong outlet protected by an upstream GFCI and marked with the words “GFCI protected” and “No equipment ground”. <S> See section 210-7(d)(3) of the National Electrical Code. <S> If you actually need grounding, I'm afraid there are no shortcuts: you will have to rewire. <S> Try to be a little more careful than the previous owner or electrician who rewired our house: we have a couple of holes in the floor because someone missed the wall! <S> If you rewire, you may have to obey the code's requirements for number and placement of receptacles, not sure. <S> In our house, the old two-prong outlets in the baseboards have been disconnected and left in place. <A> Per code, you have to have a separate ground wire if you have a grounded outlet. <S> Replacing the old wiring is the best, but it's a big job. <S> Removing all the old wiring would require you to open up a lot of your walls because the wires will be secured at multiple spots with knobs, and you may have splices at unexpected places that prevent you from pulling the wires through. <S> I assume that if you have knob & tube that you also have lath-and-plaster walls? <S> Depending on how your house is set up, you may be able to take some shortcuts and still be legal. <S> For example, if you have an unfinished basement, you could feed a loop of wire up through a wall cavity to a receptacle (probably in an old-work box): one side of the loop goes toward the service panel, the other goes to another similarly wired receptacle. <S> That way, you can daisy-chain several receptacles in a room without damaging the walls too much. <S> Are you asking if it's OK to run a separate ground wire from the existing? <A> One option is to run a new circuit from the breaker box to each room, providing 1 outlet in each room. <S> This new circuit would be grounded. <A> Really, you should just replace the Knob and Tube completely (at least where you can). <S> In Ontario, you can't even get insurance if you have knob and tube. <S> (In fact, when I bought my house, the insurance company required me to replace the fusebox with a breaker panel within 60 days of moving in.)
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A trick to avoid opening the walls is to run the new wire in the (unfinished) basement or attic, then drill up from the basement or down from the attic into the wall where you want the receptacle. The answer is no; all your wires have to be in the same conduit (see also this question ) and any rework of existing wiring has to be done to current code.
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What is a UFCL brand circuit? I'm shopping for a combination vent fan/light for a bathroom, and some of the ones I've found state this: UL Listed for use over bathtubs and showers when connected to a GFCI protected branch circuit. 7 1/8" high housing, 4" round duct connector. Not for use over cooking surfaces. U.L. rated. If placed over bath or showers must be installed on a UFCL brand circuit. What exactly is a "UFCL brand circuit"? I'm quite familiar with a GFCI protected circuit - is that just another term for the same thing? <Q> My guess is that it stands for U niform F ire <S> C ode <S> L isted and means that all components in the circuit have been tested to conform to the Uniform Fire Code, i.e. NFPA 1. <S> (I'm extrapolating from a UL or cULus listing meaning that a product has been tested to the appropriate UL standard.) <S> They would be called out separately in their literature because UL and the NFPA are separate, independent, organizations. <A> A quick Google search turns up several iterations of this which are essentially copies of each other, or copies from a really poor translation. <S> It also explained that a fan had a "Specially styled polymeric freakout blade" and "Includes junction parcel with regard to focused wiring". <S> It all points to simply another company that didn't think it was important to hire a native English speaker to translate. <S> Too bad this copied even to Amazon. <S> Go with the GFCI protected branch wiring <S> and you won't have to worry about how to "operate the humidity" in your "bath space". <S> PS, after reading the entire page, I think that "freakout" means "impeller". <A> Its gotta be a GFCI. <S> I can't find anything stating what this means. <S> The only reference I see are other lights / fans that required that.
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One of the sites which I found, that described Nutone fan installation on a UFCL brand circuit, also said that a particular fan was "Rated 70 cubic little legs per few minutes". Since the National Electrical Code is part of the NFPA standards, that would imply that the circuit must meet requirements for a bathroom circuit, i.e. GFCI protection. I'm pretty sure that this term is a result of a computer translation error.
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Are there other advantages to using turf over grass seed besides getting instant results? As I mentioned in a previous post, I'm planning to eventually have a lawn in our front yard (right now, it's bare due to septic work). I'm confused on if there are clear advantages to using turf vs just planting the seed. As far as I can tell, the only major difference is time. Am I missing something here? <Q> I've looked at this in the past. <S> These two links are pretty general, but each has an interesting tidbit. <S> Link 1 <S> "If your yard has especially shady spots, you might be better off seeding those areas, since most sod is made up of sun-thirsty grass varieties." <S> Link 2 " <S> A prime disadvantage of sod is the limited number of grass species included in sod mixes." <S> Other than that, sod is a clear winner if you have more money than time. <S> I've done both, killed both, and revived both... <S> lets just say I'm eyeing my neighbor's lovely rock garden with a bit of envy. <A> I've tried sods, divets and seeding using kikuyu (fast growing, sun loving and hardy). <S> My experiences have been the following: <S> Sods established quickly with lots of watering and sun but were a little disappointing in shaded areas. <S> However, you can walk on them after a short period without causing much damage. <S> Divets grew quickly but toke a long time to spread. <S> I had a grid like pattern for a while. <S> Steer away from divets for large areas but they're still good for fixing patches. <S> Seeds germinated after 2 weeks but toke a few months to establish. <S> The cover or pathchiness was a function of how much seed I put down. <S> Also the young grass is less hardy <S> so you need to keep your dogs/kids/relatives off until it is established. <S> I personally got a lot of satisfaction out of seeding but its not suitable for quick fixes. <S> I'd recommend sods. <A> Let's see some of the advantages of using turf over grass as listed below: <S> It's an instant lawn available to you within a month During heavy rain it doesn't wash up the slopes like grass seed <S> does Requires less water
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Turf and grass seed both have some advantages and disadvantages in many ways i.e., it depends upon the situation while choosing the right decision for your lawn.
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What can (and cannot) be put down drains that are connected to septic systems? This might be more appropriate as a community wiki... We have a septic system and I'm extremely paranoid about what can (and cannot) be put down our sink drains. I know the general answer is "nothing but water" but I'm particularly curious about: Toothpaste Hand soap (not labeled as anti-bacterial) Rinsing paint brushes Facial hair from shaving Left over coffee How careful should I be? -M <Q> Tooth paste and soap (even a little anti-bacterial) are certainly fine. <S> I would avoid food and thicker items as they will not break down. <S> I try not to allow hair, coffee grounds as they might not break down. <S> I would definitely avoid paint. <S> Feminine products can cause havoc. <S> Almost all toilet paper is septic safe these days, but read the packaging to be sure. <S> If you just bough a new house, or built one, I would recommend you have someone come out and pump the basin sooner that later. <S> That way you know for sure that the tank is clean and in good working order and you can have a fresh start. <S> I have heard way to many horror stories for new builds where the contractors used the tanks as a trash can and that later caused problems. <S> Then remember to have the system flushed out every 3-5 years based on usage and local laws. <A> If you have a garbage disposal, don't use it. <S> Just throw the food away. <S> Keep extra solids to a minimum. <A> All the things you asked about are fine avoid pouring harsh chemicals down the sink in large amounts. <S> I have never seen a laundry clog a septic system up <S> and we have been installing and pumping systems for 20 years <S> and I mean never. <S> ou do however want to avoid the garbage disposable it is one of the worst thing you can do to a sytsem. <S> Think of it this way <S> your body when food enters it breaks it down and suck all the valuable stuff out of the food to feed you body. <S> It is then disposed of after it has been thoroughly broken down in your body. <S> When you put food down the drain or garbage disposable the septic system has to break it down from start to finish. <S> This make bacteria much more active and propagate to levels not needed they also produce waste in the form of nitrogen <S> that's the balk scum in the clarifying area of an aerobic septic system. <S> So more food more Bactria. <S> From years of experience I will say this a family who uses the garbage disposable lets say just two people this just happened, and I've seen it over and over who used the disposal daily will need a aerobic system pumped every 2 years as opposed to 7-8 years for a family who doesn't use a disposal.
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Basically, you just don't want to put any harsh chemicals in there that will kill the bacteria eating away at the waste. Also avoid paper products that wont break down.
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What are the pros and cons of vinyl gutters? I need to add some gutters to part of our house and I'm seriously considering vinyl gutters because they seem REALLY easy to setup (with minimal tools required too). That being said, I've heard some people say they're more prone to problems such as leaking. Is there truth to this? If so, what alternatives would be appropriate for a newbie home owner? <Q> The weak points in any guttering system are where the various sections join. <S> So look for a system that has an easy to fit joint, or perhaps one where the joints are bonded. <S> As long as they have the capacity to carry the volume of water you expect then any correctly installed system will be OK. <S> One more thing, make sure you maintain them. <S> Check them at least one a year to make sure they're not blocked, more often if you have overhanging trees. <S> Don't lean your ladder on the gutter itself. <S> Lean it just below or get a device to push the ladder away from the wall. <A> My aluminum gutters leak, so I do periodic checks on them. <S> Of course, they only leak when it is raining, at a time when I seriously don't want to deal with the problem. <S> Anything that carries water like this will probably leak eventually. <S> So I know to check them on a yearly basis to deal with the leaks before winter. <S> To be honest, I find that a clogged downspout is more likely to cause a problem, making the gutter overflow in a heavy rain. <S> Be careful when you lean a ladder against your gutters, perhaps to clean them out periodically. <S> This will put a strain on the nearby joints, and cause leaks. <A> Perhaps the most important point in installing vinyl gutters is to use expansion joints, rather than having rigid joints all the way through, for lengths over about 20 or 30 feet. <S> Vinyl expands and contracts much more than metal, so you have to give it somewhere to go. <S> You may also want to consider sag, which is worse in vinyl. <S> I installed vinyl gutters on a house <S> I occupied nearly 30 years ago and driving past a few days ago <S> I noticed they're still there, so clearly they can last quite well.
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If the gutters aren't fitted correctly then any system will leak. Brackets used for vinyl should also be designed to allow some sliding movement, otherwise the brackets are liable to work loose over time.
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Is there a quick way to clean up walnuts from a yard? I'm renting a house and it has a walnut tree in the yard which has started dropping hundreds of walnuts all over the place. Picking them up by hand seems like it'd be messy and very slow. Is there a quick way to clean these things up? A scoop shovel doesn't seem to work too well with the grass. <Q> Amazon also has the Nut Wizard, which has an infinitely better name, but it's $50 vs. $18.01 for the Roller Nut Harvester. <S> Plus you can still tell your friends it's called the Nut Wizard <S> and they'll never know. <A> Can't you just rake them into piles, then scoop them up with your hands? <S> Or hire a squirrel. <A> I have walnut trees. <S> I think it was a butternut tree that fell down last year that was worse. <S> Every year it left behind similarly sized nuts on the ground that oozed a sticky sap. <S> I don't miss that tree at all. <S> A large plastic leaf rake works fine. <S> Get them BEFORE the husks start to fall apart though, otherwise you have a black mess. <S> Rake them into piles. <S> Then I flip the rake upside down, and roll the pile of nuts onto the rake, while wearing gloves. <S> Use it as a shovel, throwing them into a wheelbarrow. <S> I hauled away a couple of loads last week, and I've got that many waiting there for me now. <A> One great solution is to have someone else do it for you. <S> You may be able to find someone who will actually pay you to come collect them. <S> If you have no businesses near you that will buy them, you could just place an add on Craigslist for free (or cheap) you-pick walnuts. <S> Just make sure your homeowner's insurance is up to date if you're allowing people on your property. <A> Use a garden rake turned upside down. <S> The walnuts will go through the "hoop" and then be carried by the tines of the rake. <A> Squirrels are like nut vultures. <S> If you hang a feeder with peanuts and corn and set a salt lick up on a post, you will have a good supply of squirrels to combat the walnut problem for you. <A> My neighbor has an English walnut tree planted near the fence. <S> So when it's windy, the nuts fall into my backyard. <S> One year I gathered them all up and removed the hull. <S> I dried them out in the sun, froze them and had walnuts for the next holiday season. <S> It was very messy and black tannin stain were all over my gloves. <S> They are hard to crack open <S> so I used a hammer. <S> It's a long process for the 3-4 dozen you've harvested. <S> Don't do this without gloves!I used a good strong blower to get them into a corner (or garbage can), scoop them up with a shovel. <S> Don't let the squirrels have any or you'll have more trees <A> I use a dog poop scooper to pick up the walnuts in my yard. <S> The kind of scoop that as you pull the handle the bottom opens up and when released closes shut. <S> Best to use one with a long handle and larger scoop which allows you to pick up more than one at a time <S> and you do not have to bend over that much. <S> I use a small kitchen garbage can lined with a plastic bag and therefore I do not have to even touch them. <S> The bags get pretty heavy <S> so I fill only as much as I can carry. <S> Good luck! <S> Hope <S> this helps someone make an unpleasant job a little better.
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You need a Roller Nut Harvester !
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What can I use to lubricate a new kitchen faucet no longer turns? I installed a new kitchen faucet about 6 months ago. However, it no longer turns/swivels at the base. My non-expert inspection of the problem seems to suggest that the point-of-swivel has a build up of hard water or other kind of water-deposit. I believe the ring inside the unit is plastic. I'm not at home at the moment, but from off the top of my head I believe this is the unit we purchased . We did not use the horizontal base at the bottom, as we didn't have any soap--dispenser holes to cover (new granite counter tops). Any idea on how to loosen this thing up? Right now it takes 2 hands to turn, and usually results in turning the whole unit instead of swiveling on the joint. My first inclination was to use WD-40 but I wasn't sure how that would work on plastic (seems like it could be damaging) <Q> Just soak the parts with buildup in a little bit of it. <S> This stuff works miracles. <S> You can buy it anywhere. <A> White malt vinegar will dissolve limescale. <S> For best results, disassemble the faucet and soak the parts in the vinegar overnight. <S> After they've soaked, the limescale should just rinse off with water. <A> The faucet needs to be disassembled from the top. <S> I guess you already know how to do that part. <S> If there is calcium build up visible go ahead and use CLR to clean off the build up. <S> Now the important part, get a high quality, pure if possible, Silicone Grease. <S> When I say “pure” what I am saying is make sure it is 90-100% silicone. <S> If it is silicone mixed in high proportion with another type grease it is not a good choice. <S> Most O-Rings and faucet seals are made of Nitrile Butadiene Rubber. <S> Every other grease has detrimental effects on Nitrile Butadiene Rubber. <S> Plumbers grease sadly gets dry and crusty in these faucets. <S> It is also too “stiff” for long term easy movement. <S> Vaseline and any oil base grease will break down the Nitrile Butadiene Rubber in 6 months to a year. <S> Oils, like olive oil or WD40 or 3-in-1 oils are too thin and will not stay in place for long at all. <S> There is NO suitable substitute for Silicone Grease. <S> Danco a company which makes O-Rings also supplies grease for them. <S> Danco Perfect Match: <S> Silicone Grease . <S> I get mine on Amazon. <S> This will solve your faucet lubrication problems. <A> At the point of the swivel apply some plumber's grease or grease that you would use on a fishing reel. <S> Make sure that you put the grease up on the inside too. <S> Of course the real solution is to get a water softener or install a filter between the supply line and your faucet. <S> The grease will never hinder or hurt your swivel
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The Only grease you should use on these is Silicone Grease. Use CLR to dissolve the buildup from hard water.
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How can I stop bulbs from buzzing when dimmed? I've got some hanging lights with "Fat Albert" bulbs that are plugged into a dimmer switch. When they're dimmed to certain levels, the bulbs make a soft buzzing sound. The buzz is amplified and directed straight down because of the shape of the shade. It's quite annoying if you're under them! Here's a photo / blog post about these lights: http://lukecyca.com/2010/factory-lights.html Why do the bulbs buzz when dimmed? Are there other bulbs that don't buzz when they're dimmed? <Q> Why do the bulbs buzz when dimmed? <S> When you pass AC current through the filament of an incandescent bulb, it produces a magnetic field. <S> This magnetic field tends to push against itself, so there's some mechanical force acting on the filament itself which causes it to vibrate slightly. <S> When running at full power, the AC is fairly close to a sine wave (either 50Hz or 60Hz, depending on where you are) so this vibration is pretty much constant and generally barely noticeable. <S> A dimmer will truncate and clip part of that sine wave; this introduces a lot of higher-order harmonics, which in turn changes the characteristics of the magnetic field, changing the way the filament vibrates. <S> Depending on how the filament is supported, this may cause resonance at certain dimmer settings, leading to the vibration becoming noticeable. <S> See this article for some more background information on how dimmers work, including a mention of this phenomenon. <S> Are there other bulbs that don't buzz when they're dimmed? <S> If you prefer incandescent lights, look for rough service bulbs; the filament and its supports are designed to withstand more vibration than normal bulbs. <A> I've used standard-base chandelier bulbs in the past to solve this problem, like this: <S> Their filament is longer and floppier than the one in a standard bulb, so the vibrations mentioned by Niall C. don't make any noticeable noise. <S> Of course they look different than a standard bulb <S> so they might not be applicable in your fixture. <S> In ours they complemented the fixture nicely, so it was a win-win. <A> The buzzing could be from the vibrating filament, but it could also be from the leads inside the metal base. <S> Inside the base there are leads welded to the side/tip that pass into the sealed glass bulb. <S> I confirmed this idea by experiment on one particular offending bulb (halogen). <S> By removing the metal base and applying dimmer output directly to the leads I was able to make the buzzing disappear. <S> (Don't try this at home!) <S> Even though rough service bulbs may have a thicker filament and more supports, being less likely to vibrate, the leads at the base may actually be the culprit. <S> When I tried using one particular brand of rough service bulbs to combat buzzing (advertised for garage door openers) <S> I found that they still buzzed. <S> So in summary it appears you may need to try multiple brands to find one that works. <S> I finally found some energy saving halogen bulbs that did the trick.
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You could also try halogen bulbs or even dimmable CFLs.
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Can I use my shower while grout is curing? I just recaulked my front bath and accidentally popped loose a tile in the process. I reinstalled the tile and allowed that to set before grouting. I just finished grouting the tile, and I read on the interwebs you should allow grout to cure for at least a week before sealing, but was wondering if it was okay to use the shower stall in the meantime. If I allow the grout to set for a day, is it ok to use that shower while the grout cures? I know you're supposed to keep the grout from drying out... The new grout only extends a few tiles from the corner and is on the side with the shower head, so it doesn't get very wet either. Hoping someone could relate their experience(s) - I am definitely a tiling noob. <Q> All you need to do is leave the grout to dry before getting it wet. <S> The instructions should tell you for how long. <S> As you and others have pointed out drying and curing are separate things. <S> You don't want to seal any moisture in. <A> Yes. <S> Use the shower, but give it 24 hours to dry/harden/set . <S> In fact, as with all portland cement products, it's a good idea to keep it moist while it cures, as the curing process is all about hydrating the cement molecules (i.e. binding with water.) <S> Avoid high pressure sprays, and any abrasion, but water running down the tile wall will be fine. <S> Let it dry thoroughly before sealing. <A> What's all this about sealing water in with a sealant? <S> Quality solvent based penetrating sealers are vapor permeable, which means water will evaporate out of the grout as it cures/drys/hardens. <S> Sealing it after initial set (24 hours) will act like Gore-Tex; moisture evaporates out, but won't soak back in. <A> After putting new Grout, you need to wait for 16 hours before you disturb it. <S> The curing take a long time (one month or longer). <S> For full strength, you need to keep the grout wet at least for 3 days. <S> To leave the grout to dry in 3 days, is not a good idea. <S> Usually, you need to mist it for 3 days. <S> Therefore it is ok to use the shower since it will give it needed moisture without any harm.
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While you can use the shower after the grout is dried you may need to leave it for a day or two after it's cured before sealing.
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What should I do with a double gang box if I no longer need two separate switches? We're relocating our TV to a side of our living room that has a power outlet controlled by a wall switch. The switch is part of a double gang box (1 switch controls the porch light, the other controls the outlet). I don't want people to accidentally turn off the electronics if they hit the wrong switch but I'm not sure what the right method would be to address this. It's a trivial issue so I'd like to avoid spending too much time on it. What are the recommended options here? <Q> I'm surprised that the switch controls the entire outlet -- generally in that setup (in North America at least), the switch only controls one plug, and the other plug is constant power. <S> In that case of course, the answer is to use a power bar. <S> It may even be worth checking in the plug to see if there is constant power available. <S> You may be able to fix the wiring to work as I've described. <S> If you can't fix the problem at the plug, then remove the switch, connect the wires together with a wire nut, and then install a duplex faceplate with a blank. <A> The easiest solution is to buy a switch lock or switch guard. <A> Like others have said, you could add a lock out switch which would prevent it from being flipped. <S> You could also disconnect the switch, tie the wires together, but leave the switch in the box. <S> That way it is not functioning and if someone flipped it, it would not matter. <S> This is what I would probably do. <S> If there is non switched power in the box, you could put a receptacle in the location where the unused switch will be. <S> May look a little odd if it is in the middle of the room. <S> I have done this at counter height plugs in the kitchen. <S> This is probably extreme, but if you are 100% sure you wont use this, you could replace the box with a single, add a little drywall, and fully fix it up. <S> But i imagine this is a lot of work, and you dont want it permeant. <A>
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Take out the switch, wire nut the wires together, and get a cover with one switch hole and one blank. The only way I know of to do this is to use the "decora" style blanks , and then either a duplex decora plate , or a combination toggle/decora plate .
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Can I mix brands of chainsaw chains? I have a Stihl 260 chainsaw, with a 3/8" chain and a 20" bar. What criteria do I need to apply when picking a second chainsaw chain? <Q> I'll defer to the experts but personally, I wouldn't mix brands of chainsaw chains. <S> I seem to recall that Stihl chain designs help reduce/prevent kick-back and binding (which presumably explains why they're more expensive). <S> Plus, they use a green and yellow color-coding system to help you select a powerhead, bar and chain combination that complies with kickback requirements of various safety standards (e.g. ANSI Standard B175.1). <S> But again, I'm no expert -- just paranoid about safety. <S> =) -M <A> Mixing brands of chains is no problem, provided you use compatible chains. <S> I'm no longer able to buy "original" chains for my old Homelite <S> so I buy it off the roll at the local mower/chainsaw dealer, who also joins it up for me. <S> It's worth noting that this particular dealer won't sell you a chain unless you know exactly what to ask for or bring in an old one for comparison. <S> The wrong type of chain can be inefficient or even downright dangerous, so get some expert advise before buying a non-genuine chain. <S> If you have an doubts err on the safe side - always. <A> Oregon (http://www.oregonchain.com/) makes chainsaw accessories, including chains that would fit my chainsaw. <S> Stihl chains are pre-stretched, so you won't get as much initial stretch on the saw. <S> I heard that Stihl chains are built to closer tolerances, but nothing authoritative. <S> It looks like the Oregon chain needs a slightly different sized sharpening file. <S> I don't want to have to sort out which file goes with which chain. <S> As @Mike <S> B pointed out, there color-codings on Stihl saws, which is convenient. <S> I compared the price of a Stihl chain at my Stihl dealer to the price of an Oregon chain at my local hardware store, and the difference wasn't very big. <S> I decided to stick with Stihl chains. <A> You have to pay attention to pitch (distance between drive links) to match the sprocket (and bar tip sprocket if you're using a roller nose) and thickness of the drive tang on the drive link must match to the groove on the bar with proper established clearances. <S> If you pay attention to those dimensions, you can use other brands. <S> The loggers I grew up with used Oregon Chain by the spool. <S> Time is money and time spent in the field sharpening anything was a waste, so you made up multiple chains, often for several saws with different bar lengths, changed them out and when you had enough, fired up your sharpening grinder (files? psh!) and processed all your dull chains for angle, depth of cut per species of tree you were felling. <A> stihl chains have oil groves that keep you bar and chain oiled as well as having 2 diff types of chains for kick back the green label is for less kick back for less experienced wood cutters and the yellow for pro wood cutters with bigger hp saws.
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my advice is stick with the stihl chains they are desighned for your saw
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Should I stop to hand-sharpen my chainsaw, or bring extra chains? If I'm going to spend the day in the woods with the chainsaw, my chain will get dull before I'm done. Should I learn to hand-file the cutters, and sharpen in the woods? Or should I bring a spare chain (or two!) and swap them out? I would get them sharpened at the hardware store. <Q> When you're in the woods, you probably want to spend your time cutting, not doing things you could do back in your shop (or have the hardware store do for you). <S> So I would bring at least at least an extra chain: as many you think you'd need, plus one. <S> With an extra chain along, you are additionally prepared in case one has a problem that sharpening can't fix. <S> Hand-file sharpening is a useful skill. <S> If you learn to hand-sharpen your chains, you can do that to all the chains at once back in your garage. <A> I spent the day in the woods following an excavator. <S> He knocked down trees, I cut off root balls, he sorted the results. <S> I had just figured out how to sharpen freehand and get a good result. <S> There was often dirt embedded in the bark around the stumps. <S> There was a lot of dirt flying as the excavator worked. <S> The chain went dull often. <S> I think I sharpened 5-6 times that day. <S> I would have needed a lot of extra chains to keep up with that work. <S> A file fit in my pocket, but spare chains would not. <S> Touching up the cutters with a round file goes really fast, now that I know how to do it. <S> I don't think swapping the chain would have saved me any time. <S> I will take my used chains to a pro with a fancy machine to get all the angles ground just right, and then continue to use a file in hand to touch up in the field. <A> Both. <S> Initially you may find that hand sharpening is kind of slow <S> but once you get the hang of it, and realise you really only need to just slightly touch up each tooth, you can be back cutting in about the same amount of time as it takes to swap chains, or even less. <S> Always take a spare chain. <S> Even if you touch up the working one rather than swap it out, there's always a possibility of damaging the chain, necessitating a replacement. <S> Back home it's worth looking into the cost of having the chain(s) professionally sharpened, as opposed to the time you're going to take to do a similar job. <S> Also, you should be able to get a bunch of sharpenings for the price of even a mediocre machine sharpener. <S> At least that's how the costing works out where I am. <A> I'd carry a file to hit the chain every once in a while. <S> It doesn't take long. <S> You have to be careful to not grind the teeth wrong. <A> I suggest you to do both. <S> Actually, this is what I do. <S> Keep 2-3 <S> spare/extra chain with you. <S> When one chain gets dull, replace it with the extra chain and continue the cutting operation <S> At night, when you come back home, sharpen the chain with your file or better use an electric sharpener. <S> I generally do the sharpening by myself, but if you want, you can give them to hardware store for sharpening.
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I brought a spare chain and my sharpening kit. Another option is a battery powered dremel tool with a round stone to sharpen blades.
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How can I locate the pump in a wet open-vented central heating system? Lost: One Central Heating Pump. Reward offered (in reputation points ;) I have a wet open-vented central heating system, and I've turned it on after six months to find the radiators aren't getting hot. We suspect the pump is clogged with sediment. The problem is, we can't find the pump. I've had a plumber round and we've searched around, even pulling up some floorboards near the hearth, but we can't find it. Where should I look? Any tips for locating the pump? The central heating boiler is upstairs, the control panel is downstairs, there are three radiators downstairs, and four upstairs. <Q> There must be a cable going to the pump from the controller, so you may be able to find it using a cable tracer. <A> Are the pipes getting hot? <S> Are there valves (that have been shut)? <S> I wonder if the system you have only comes in either gravity fed or pump fed version; the product manual or marketing materials might tell you. <S> Do you have the manual for the system lurking about? <S> If you know the make and model number of the central heading boiler, you might be able to find the docs online by searching for the make and model number using Google/Bing!/Whatever. <A> It can't possibly be a gravity fed system, with the boiler upstairs. <S> Steam must rise, but more importantly, when the steam condenses, only a pump will make the water return to the boiler. <S> Is there a return line? <S> A picture might help. <S> Could this be an open loop system? <S> So the hot water is discarded after use? <S> Nah, that would be incredibly wasteful. <S> Scrap it and replace it if it is. <S> So the pump must be somewhere. <S> I can't believe any sane person would install a system like this without providing access, at least in the form of an access panel. <S> Of course, I could believe that someone might later, unthinkingly, box it in/close it off. <S> What is the vintage of the system? <S> So if these are old steam radiators, then a pump could be at the bottom of the loop. <S> Look there.
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If they are baseboard style, modern radiators, then my gut says the pump is near the boiler, and since you can't find it, perhaps built into that unit.
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How do I repair screw holes in a brick wall? I have screw holes which were put in to support a curtain rail. The curtain's been pulled out a few times by accident, and now the screw holes are crumbling and I don't know how to repair that portion of the wall. I want to get it firm again, then re-drill and put the rail back up. It's a plastered brick wall. What should I do to repair the crumbling holes in the wall caused by the dislodged screws? <Q> There are epoxy repair systems for wood. <S> It should work here too. <S> Once it hardens, the epoxy is a tough, sandable, paintable medium that can de drilled. <S> Make sure it keys properly into the hole, so that it does not just pull free under load. <S> This may involve an undercut if necessary. <S> In fact, I just checked, and there are epoxies available specifically for masonry repair too, but the wood product should be sufficient here, and is easily found in most home stores. <S> An alternative might be to add a flat wood molding behind the entire length of rod. <S> 3/8 of an inch thick should be sufficient. <S> Paint to match the wall. <S> Now anchor the curtain rod to the wood, using expanding drywall anchors, if necessary. <A> Obviously you haven't got much choice if you're putting up a curtain rail. <S> Another solution might be to screw a wooden board to the wall and then screw the curtain rail to that. <S> You can choose where you fix the board <S> and then you've got something solid to screw the rail to. <S> You can either paint it the same colour as the wall to blend in, or the same colour as the window to make it look like a part of that. <A> To repair the holes purchase a small container of non shrinking spackle paste, surgical or particle mask, safety glasses, 150 grade sandpaper, Masonry drill bit that is just smaller than your masonry wall anchor, 4 inch plaster knife, plaster weld, a disposable chipper brush <S> 1". <S> Remove any loose plaster by scraping with a sturdy putty knife or painters <S> 5 way tool also known as a five in one ( be sure to wear your dust mask and safety glasses. <S> Once you've removed all loose plaster you should vacuum holes and apply plaster weld to any areas where the plaster or structolite is visible, when the plaster weld liquid has set up you can then apply the spackle paste and be sure to push the spackle paste in as far as possible into the screw holes. <S> In many cases two coats of spackling paste is needed, let the 1st coat dry completely (2 or 3 hours) before applying second coat. <S> once the spackle has dried and cured you may sand spackle smooth and be sure to vacuum the dust with a good hepa filter shop vac. <S> when rehanging your curtains you should mark your holes with a pencil making sure your holes are level on the opposite side- <S> you can drill your new pilot holes and insert your masonry wall anchors after. <S> One <S> last but important note <S> : if your home was built before 1980 it would be a good idea to call in a professional or take a lead tester to the area being attempting any work.
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I've found that the easiest solution is to use filler on the holes and plaster work to get a smooth finish and then drill new holes somewhere else.
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What can I do to keep my shed (or house) free of spiders? I've got an old shed at the end of my garden, this summer I gave it a complete cleanout, but within a few weeks it was back to its cobweb infested state. Being quite an arachnaphobe, it makes getting stuff in/out quite an uncomfortable challenge. I'm thinking of getting a new shed (old one is falling apart) but I'm concerned about how I can tackle these 8 legged critters. I'm fine with any other bugs, just not spiders. I've heard that putting conkers (horse chestnuts) around the corners helps, as there is something they don't like about conkers. I've also heard that trying to "seal" up the shed with a caulk gun may work also, but I'm looking for confirmation on these or addition suggestions Any ideas? <Q> Spiders are predators, they go where the food is. <S> If spiders are attracted to your shed, it means prey insects are attracted to your shed. <S> Get rid of the prey. <S> Remove nearby vegetation and organic matter that provides food/shelter for bugs <S> Remove any standing water (bird baths, puddles, soil that soaks up moisture) <S> Remove light sources (bugs fly towards light) Stain/paint exposed wood to make it less attractive to bugs Fill gaps in the shed where bugs are getting inside to get out of the elements (caulk) <S> Also apply it to any crevices in the inside. <S> Look at more "natural" oils and plants that repel insects. <A> I did a quick search for information about chestnuts and spiders and found conflicting advice. <S> My take is that even it doesn't work <S> , it can't hurt; the worst that can happen is that you still have spiders and some (apparently useless) chestnuts on the floor of your shed. <S> Caulking small gaps in the shed walls is a good idea in general, but the biggest gap is always going to be around the door. <S> Installing some weatherstripping there would help keep spiders out. <S> A general pest-control tip is to keep vegetation away from the house (or shed); cut back trees that are near it, keep grass mowed, etc. <S> If you're open to using pesticides, you can use some around the perimeter of the shed to create a barrier that they can't cross. <S> This would work best if you have something permanent to apply it to, like gravel or concrete. <A> I used a spider flypaper thing. <S> You can either bend them into a box like a roach trap or leave them open. <S> I caught many spiders in the garage I don't use, and it's much better than it was. <S> Even if you do other things, these are cheap and plentiful, you can drop them around all the windows, doors and areas they might get in. <S> At least you get the feeling of progress when you throw out one spider-covered sticky pad and replace it with another. <A> I had a problem in my shed and I ended up using expandable foam in and around all crevices that would allow a spider or insect to come in from the outside. <S> Before that, I had to clean out the entire shed and kill a bunch of spiders. <S> After I cleaned out the shed and sprayed with Black Flag Home Defense really well, the spider problem subsided. <S> Make sure you cut down any vegetation in and around the shed such as overhanging limbs or branches. <S> Also, put a layer of rocks around your shed. <S> It helps prevent vegetation from growing but it will also prevent mice from making a home too. <A> Get eucalyptus branches from an art/craft store and hang bunches in the shed... <S> spiders despise the smell. <S> (You probably will too) Between that and sealing the cracks, you should be relatively spider-free. <A> I was advised to use ecalypytus oil, I bought some from ebay, now maybe coincidence, but my garage is completely spider free... <S> nothing, no trace of them whatsoever... <S> I am very pleased and no harmful poisons used! <A> I've always used diesel fuel around shed walls and in window wells. <S> It has served to wipe out and prevent bugs and spiders from entering through those areas.
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Regularly apply spray pesticides to the exterior surface of the shed to discourage insects from hanging around.
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Why do some painters leave a gap between the wall and the ceiling? I've noticed that (at least here in Germany) some walls are painted so that a tiny fraction of the upper wall has the same color as the ceiling. Why do people do that? I find this not so pretty. <Q> Surely this is down to personal preference, but here in the UK you might find that a room that has a picture rail painted in a similar manner. <S> The ceiling colour will be painted above the rail with a different colour painted below the rail. <S> One objective reason might be to hide imperfections in the join between the walls and ceiling. <S> If the ceiling is uneven you'd get a wavy line around the room. <S> Painting a stripe of the same colour around the wall could reduce the impact of this. <S> NOTE: <S> Picture Rail Functional molding installed 7–9 feet above the floor from which framed pictures and paintings <S> are hung using picture wire and picture rail hooks. <A> It may be that the painter can use a rollor without having to touch up. <A> <A> As ChrisF said, this is a matter of personal taste. <S> Here in my part of Australia the norm is to paint the ceiling and cornice (crown moulding) one colour, generally white, and the walls down from there to the skirting boards another colour.
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It would be easier to apply painter's masking tape that way - If you try to get tape right to the edge, it might lift in places and allow paint the bleed underneath.
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How can I keep leftover drywall mud from drying out in the box? I'm not quite sure how much drywall mud I'll be using for my upcoming project so I'm planning to buy a box of it. Assuming that I have some left over, is there a technique for not wasting it? Will it last for awhile if I make sure to tie up the bag again and close the box lid? Or should I assume that it'll only last for a short time after I initially open the box. Also, what's the shelf life for drywall mud? Should I only buy as much as I think I need? Or if I found a good deal, will it keep for awhile (for use with other projects later)? -M <Q> I don't have any experience with boxes, but have quite a bit with the 5-gallon buckets of compound. <S> The other thing I'd recommend- <S> every time you close the box or bucket, put a piece of plastic sheeting over the top of the mud. <S> This traps the moisture in against the mud, and prolongs its shelf life. <S> The buckets come with a round piece of plastic sheeting on top of the mud- <S> I just fold it in half (to keep any bits of mud stuck to the plastic from being exposed to air) <S> then when I am done for the day, unfold it, and put it back on top of the mud in the bucket. <A> As MarkD mentioned, the 5 gallon buckets are the way to go for ready-mix. <S> They seal up nicely and have a very long shelf life. <S> If I pull out an old one, I'll usually add a bit of water, mix it up a bit, and it'll be fine. <S> Just to cover another option - you also have the dry unmixed compound that comes in bags. <S> These are really an entirely different beast from the pre-mix buckets though: <S> They tend to absorb moisture from the air, so shelf life is limited to maybe a couple months before they get "clumpy". <S> They dry much more quickly (20 - 90 minutes depending on the variety), which is nice if you want to put on multiple coats in a day. <S> They dry much harder - the faster they dry <S> , the harder it will be - which is nice for filling low spots or base coats, but terrible for sanding. <S> Once they start to dry, it's over - you can't add water to soften them up. <S> So you only mix up as much as you can put on in 15-30 minutes or so. <S> If it starts to set in your mud tray <S> it's too late - throw it out and mix up some more. <A> In addition to pressing the plastic sheeting over the surface as @MarkD suggests, make sure you also pack it down flat before doing so. <S> Take the time to scrape all the extra mud off the sides of the box/bucket and smooth out the top surface. <S> This will minimize the area exposed and keep you from getting crusties flaking off the sides of the container into your good mud. <A> No one understood what he asked which is ridiculous. <S> Store the unused dry mix in a garbage bag and tie it and put it back in box or a container with a lid. <S> Store it in a cool area. <S> It will last forever. <A> Best Way....cover the mud with water before replacing the lid. <S> When you need it again, simply pour the water out. <S> It will still be sitting on top of the mud, protecting it from the air above.
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Without knowing much about how those boxes seal, I'd recommend going with a bucket- the buckets/lids seal air tight which is important for keeping the mud from drying out.
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How do I remove baseboard that has been tiled over? The previous owner installed tile without re-installing the original baseboard. We are trying to remove the baseboard in preparation for installing laminate flooring. Afterwards our plan is to install new baseboard above the laminate flooring. We started in a closet but we are finding it hard to remove the baseboard since some of the nails holding the baseboard are right at the level of the tile. So far I have a chisel to break the grout right by the baseboard, a utility knife to cut the paint at top of the baseboard and a small pry bar to pull at the baseboard. Ripping up the tile is of course one way to make the baseboard removal easier; we're just nervous about getting in over our heads. What method, technique, and/or tools should we be putting to use here? <Q> The easiest way to remove things is usually in the inverse order they were put in. <S> If you intend to put down new flooring, you must remove the tile anyway, so remove the tile first. <S> I'll admit that the scariest thing to do might be the tear out. <S> It forces you to accept that you are doing this thing, especially if you have never done something of this magnitude. <S> It will make a mess of things for a wee bit. <S> I would suggest removing tile with a hammer and wide cold chisel. <S> Break up at least a few tiles by hand. <S> If you have a compressor available, a great tool here would be a flat air powered chisel. <S> This tool would rapidly allow you to peel up the old tile. <S> A bit noisy, but fast. <S> If not, then the hammer and hand held chisel (don't use a wood chisel unless you have borrowed the wood chisel from someone you don't like) will do. <S> Once a few tiles are up, you may find that a large ice scraper, used for breaking the ice from your sidewalk, will be useful to peel up the rest of the tile. <S> Once the tile has been removed, then remove the baseboard for later replacement. <S> Demolition can be the most fun part of a project. <S> Try to keep the dust out of the remainder of the house, and use a dust mask. <A> I know what your saying... <S> you want to replace the baseboards and keep the tile. <S> I just used a blade for cutting concrete - still cuts through the wood with no problem. <S> Then just take a box cutting knife and score the top in between the drywall and baseboard and remove the old baseboard with a chisel and hammer. <S> Then install the new baseboard on top. <S> (note: when cutting the baseboards with the angle grinder keep it at a 30 degree angel to the floor <S> so you don't hurt the tile.) <S> Keep a fire extinguisher close by - sometimes the wood gets hot... don't burn your house down! <S> Shouldn't be a problem though I've done this on 4 full houses and works great everytime. <A> If you don't want to remove the tile, you could use a wood chisel to split the baseboard and leave it at the level of the top of the tile. <S> Kinda messy and labor intensive thought.
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Easiest way that I found is to take an angle grinder and cut the old baseboards level with the old tile.
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How do I air-seal a range hood flute? My new kitchen included a new exterior flute for a new range hood. Few months later, I opened the cover for some maintanace reason and saw that the flexible flute is basically going through the ceiling via a hole cut into the ceiling. The circular hole has about 1-2" space around the pipe... see picture. How do I air-tight this? seems like all my house heating can just fly up into the attic this way... I thought to use expanding foam, but not sure if that is the "right" way, also, if I do, can I use the cheap stuff or do I need the "fire" rated one? any ideas? pictures are most welcomed if you have something to show me... <Q> Great Stuff makes a fireblock sealant that is minimal expanding. <S> It's actually specifically designed for penetrations between floors and through fire walls (required in commercial situations, but works equally well here). <A> Hernan asked me via e-mail for my recommendation <S> and I'm replying here for everyone's benefit. <S> The proper way to seal the range vent flue penetration through the drywall ceiling is is <S> Type B Gas Vent Fire Stop/Support/Wall Plate. <S> See this link: http://www.ventingpipe.com/heat-fab-sc03fs-3-saf-t-vent-sc-8-x-8-firestop-support-wall-plate/p999815 <S> The fire stop plate provides clearance for the vent from the drywall and ceiling joists, while sealing the hole to block drafts, smoke and fire. <S> Choose a fire stop with the appropriate dimensions and install according to the mfg's instructions (see the above link). <S> In this range vent hood exhaust application, the air temperature will be very mild compared to a gas water heater or furnace exhaust where a fire stop is normally installed. <S> Do verify the exhaust vent <S> has a damper installed somewhere to prevent backdrafts on windy days. <S> Take care,Bob Jackson <A> My first thought was expanding foam as well. <S> DAP Kwik Foam claims to contain a fire retardant, but it doesn't list any specific ratings. <S> If you want to be extra safe, you could use something like Abesco FP200, which is fire-rated for ASTM E-814 . <S> (Resistant to 2 hours of exposure to flame.) <S> Otherwise, if you want it to look pretty, you could go find some flashing for a vent base that fits your duct. <S> If the duct isn't easy to disconnect, you could cut something like <S> this in half to fit around the duct where it is and caulk the seam afterwards.
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The fire stop plate can be sealed to the drywall with silicone caulk and to the flue duct with aluminum foil HVAC tape for an air tight bond.
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How do I consistently drive drywall screws to the correct depth? Is there a special technique or tool for consistently placing drywall screws correctly? I'm using a standard Dewalt DWD115K (with no auto-stop mechanism) so I'm usually paranoid of going too deep with screws... which results in stopping the screw before it's completely set in -- and then having additional trouble properly sinking it after that. I thought maybe a screw guide might help but it didn't... Is this just something where practice makes perfect? <Q> Buy a $5 drywall dimpler , the bit will slip off the screw head when the screw is at the appropriate depth. <A> Also, as drywall (plasterboard in the UK) is quite soft you'd have to have the clutch on a low setting anyway. <S> I find that if I don't get the screw at quite the right depth <S> the first go <S> I can usually just add an extra couple of twists by hand to get it bedded in to my satisfaction. <A> The Dimpler® <S> attachment is a good idea if you're doing a small area. <S> If you're doing a whole room or more either rent or buy a screw gun. <S> It'll make life a lot easier. <A> You're doing it just right. <S> The biggest mistake you can make when screwing in drywall is to drive the screw too deeply, tearing the paper outer layer. <S> The paper is what's holding the plaster inside together enough to be screwed down in the first place, so keeping it intact is the key to a secure connection. <S> You want the screw head to be just below the surface, just dimpling the paper so it can be later filled with compound and hidden. <S> A clutch isn't going to help you with this because you'll find each screw will require different torque to get to the right depth. <S> And I've tried the auto-stop drivers that chuck into your drill and <S> found them to be inconsistent at setting the screw to just the right depth, and consequently slower than just using a regular drill driver and my own eyes. <S> My technique is similar to what you've been doing, stopping the driver at what I think is the right spot, but being careful to err on the side of not going deep enough. <S> Then I run a finger over it to make sure it's dimpled, and if not I'll just use the drill driver as a manual screwdriver, turning the whole thing by hand to get that last 1/4 or 1/2 turn. <S> As a final check before starting my first mud coat, I'll quickly run my 6" knife over all the screws and <S> if I hear any clinks, I know I've got to drive that screw in a little deeper. <A> Practice makes perfect, but I'd recommend a drill with a clutch if you can scrounge one up. <S> It's not fool proof, but it helps. <S> If you're going to be doing a lot of drywall projects then your wish list should have something like this gun . <S> It's great for decking too. <S> Only a framing nailer is faster in my experience for putting stuff together.
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Just make sure you get a screwdriver that fits the screw head quite tightly. Certainly you will get better with practice. Just take it steady and don't worry too much.
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Are receptacle surge protectors a practical solution? After mounting my television on the wall, I would like to put a receptacle behind it so the power cord will be hidden. While planning this I was trying to figure how to get a surge protector to be hidden behind the TV as well, then I came across a surge protection receptacle . Has anybody used these before? Are they worth the price? Will I get acceptable surge protection from one of these? They seem like a great idea if they actually work, I can't believe I have not seen these before. EDIT: An article from the Family Handyman says this about knowing when to replace the receptacle. Some types of surge protection receptacles (available at electrical supply houses and online retailers) have a signal to alert you when they’re no longer providing surge protection and need to be replaced (surge suppressors do wear out). So I guess that's one thing to look for before buying one. <Q> The number that I look for is in a surge suppressor is the energy or Joules rating, with the higher the better. <S> This one is rated for 720 J, which is middle-of-the-road. <S> You can find surge strips from about 200J to 4000J. <S> The thing with any modern TV is that you're probably going to be using a co-ax input for cable TV, and potentially an ethernet input too. <S> For that reason, I'd try to find something with protection for all three: power, co-ax and data . <S> Even if it does mean compromising on the aesthetics of your installation. <S> (FWIW, I use Belkin protectors on my equipment and have never had problems... <S> but I do live in a low-lightning part of the world). <A> One thing you could do is install a whole house surge protector in your breaker box. <S> These typically come with a large $ warranty if something does get blown. <S> They come in may forms, the easiest ones simply install into a single circuit slot in your breaker box. <S> Others hard wire in and have a small box that mounts right next to your breaker box. <S> Depending on the make / model of your breaker box, there would be various choices. <A> One problem you need to consider is that nearly all consumer grade surge suppressors rely on the properties of a varistor (voltage dependent resistor), which will self destruct when presented with anything beyond a fairly minor surge or spike. <S> Unfortunately, there is rarely an indicator to tell you this has occurred. <S> Surges and spikes could happen at any time, so unless you have a reason to suspect it has occurred you will be oblivious to it. <S> Consequently, many people are using surge suppressors which have done their job and no longer offer any protection whatsoever. <S> Things are different when you get into good commercial/industrial grade gear but that gets very bulky and very expensive. <A> But since you're going to be connecting that TV to various video sources, either they need to be surge protected too, or you need to surge protect the connections. <S> If you're worried about aesthetics, what are you doing with your video cables? <S> If they show, why care about your power? <S> And if they don't show (in-wall cable run), can't you run your power cable through there too? <S> Then you can surge protect the TV using a normal UPS along with the rest of your entertainment stack.
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If you only want to surge protect your TV, this might make sense.
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What is the best way to remove a non load bearing wall? I have a wall that I want to knock out as part of a kitchen remodel. The wall is non load bearing, so its fine to take out. The question is, what's the best way to do it? I imagine there's not a whole lot of finesse to it, but are there are some techniques to avoid wreaking the ceiling, floor and other connecting walls? Also, the wall is lath-and-plaster and not the usual drywall. Will that affect things? The wall has 1 electrical outlet in the lower corner, and no other electrical or plumbing runs through it. My guess is it would go something like is: Cut power at breaker (duh) Remove plaster (how?) Remove electrical line. Remove wall frame (sawzal + pry bar?) Is this about right? <Q> Removing plaster can make tremendous amounts of dust, isolate the area with plastic to cut down on the spread, and get yourself a dust mask and a helmet is a good idea. <S> Cover any cold air returns and heating vents. <S> Clean up all the plaster and dust, then go after the lathe with a crowbar and/or hammers; then start cutting the vertical studs with a sawzall. <S> Double, triple, quadruple check that it's not load-bearing, if the blade is binding when cutting through a stud <S> , there's downward pressure, and even if it's not structurally load bearing, things could've shifted over time above, and taking it out might make things drop or sag. <A> I'd use a strong knife or small saw like a keyhole or drywall saw to more carefully cut lines in the plaster on the edges of the part you're removing (to avoid cracking the parts you do want to keep too much). <S> Then, just start cutting the lath (with plaster still attached) into manageable pieces (in between the wall studs), trying to keep the plaster still attached to the lath. <S> Then it won't crumble all over and you can just place the pieces in a trash can. <S> If the plaster is already separated from the lath (i.e. the plaster keys -- the plaster in between the lath pieces -- have broken off the surface) then use a large paint scraper or similar to scrape it off in chunks. <A> I demoed out 2 pony walls and removed/rebuilt a furred down wall to contain a large "window" as part of my kitchen remodel - although it wasn't plaster <S> /lath <S> so I can't really speak to that removal process. <S> I do know it makes an unholy dusty mess <S> (I've had plaster/lath removed in a rental by a contractor <S> and we had to cover EVERYTHING). <S> Strongly advise you disassemble the wall slowly, going nuts with a sledge and crowbar tends to create damage someone <S> has to repair later. <S> (Basically I let the GF loose on some stuff <S> and she caused a little "collateral damage" with her enthusiasm for demolishing our nasty old kitchen). <S> Basically once you have the plaster/lath removed, remove the electrical, then when you take the wall apart, start removing the inner members first and work outward. <S> Even though your structure isn't load bearing, there may be some other "dependencies" which you could damage if you just go ripping into it. <S> Cliffs - once you're removed the plaster/lath and electrical, remove/cut out the inner studs first and work outward. <A> Admittedly, I haven't done this before but I have a few thoughts: <S> First, before beginning the project, you may want to check to see if there are any regional restrictions. <S> If you're going to be relocating anything in the wall (gas, plumbing, electrical, etc) you may need permits. <S> Assuming that you're 100% certain that the wall isn't load bearing, you might want to review the following how-to procedure: <S> http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/wall-open-up.html <S> With regard to removing plaster, check the following sites: <S> http://www.ehow.com/how_2092391_remove-plaster.html http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Removing_Plaster--T433.html <S> http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/483219/how_to_remove_a_plaster_section_of.html <S> As a reminder, be sure to use necessary safety equipment (including a good respirator and eye protection). <S> Plaster removal can get messy.
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Once you're prepared, taking plaster walls down is pretty easy, whack it with a hammer to bust a hole, then you can usually get a shovel or pitchfork behind the plaster and it will pull away from the lathe easily as you break the keyway that holds it in.
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What are the best materials for non-toxic wooden blocks? I want to make wooden blocks for my baby girl. If successful, I would like to sell wooden block sets online too. Requirements: (by order of importance) Non-toxic Cheap & readily available Durable (doesnt chip, can withstand baby's watery mouth) Easy to work with What are your suggestions for the best: Wood type Wood paint Finish for the job? <Q> I've seen wooden toy making demonstrations at craft fairs and they almost all used maple. <S> As for coloring I'd do a test with some food grade dyes or colorants. <S> You can buy gel and paste colorants from a cake decorating store and they're very vibrant and (obviously) safe to eat. <A> One thing to consider it that the blocks will be banged against each other and wall, doors, floors etc. <S> so using a stain rather than paint might be the better option. <S> It won't chip <S> so will leave the blocks in better condition for longer. <A> Use a hard, inexpensive local wood, without large pores. <S> Hard, since they will get banged around. <S> Pores will allow the wood to trap bacteria, dirt where you don't want it. <S> Maple is my first choice. <S> Second choice might be birch, sycamore, or alder, if you have a source for them. <S> Poplar is not bad either - cheap, reasonably tough. <S> Cherry would work too. <S> Much depends on what you can find locally. <S> Do NOT go to your local big box store (Home Depot, etc.) <S> to buy hardwood. <S> Hardwood bought there will be quite expensive for what you get. <S> Woods that I would NOT use are imported exotic woods. <S> These can often cause allergic reactions. <S> Another wood to be avoided for this purpose is walnut, which might cause reactions in some. <S> Paint can chip off, and may not be food safe. <S> And be careful with stains, since many of them will not be food safe. <S> Wood dyes, like aniline dyes, may also be something I would not put in my child's mouth. <S> For a coloring, I would use simple food coloring.
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I'd recommend something like maple. Use wood coloring, rather than paint.
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What are the pros and cons of various hardwood floor finishes? Trying to decide how to stain/finish some new oak hardwood floors. What are the pros and cons of various options like stain+poly, tung oil, etc. I'm wondering about lifetime cost, durability, ability to make small repairs, and work involved. <Q> I have done both a refinish and a new install, and did a bunch of research before choosing. <S> These are my generalized conclusions about the different choices: <S> Linseed / Tung Oil Pros: <S> Easy to apply Relatively durable <S> Quick curing and drying times <S> Cons: <S> Will darken with age <S> Provides very little protection against wood damage Oil based polyurethane Pros: <S> Durable Low maintenance <S> Cons: <S> Long dry times in between coats (~8 hours) <S> Long time to fully cure ( <S> ~30 days). <S> Yellows over time Strong odor during application and cure Requires some skill to apply correctly Water based polyurethane <S> Pros: <S> Short cure time (~7-10 days) <S> Cons: <S> Short dry time requires a "wet edge" when applying. <S> Provides less protection than Oil polyurethane <S> I don't have personal experience with the Tung/Linseed oil approach. <S> Both of the areas which I was working are relatively high traffic, and I did not want to have to worry about damage to the wood surface. <S> I have seen the Oil-based poly done, and it is a production. <S> It usually results in evacuation from the house because of the VOCs in the finish. <S> The long cure times made it a deal breaker for me, because the areas in question were main walkways in my house. <S> So, in my case, I chose to go with the water based poly. <S> It is durable, comes in several finishes <S> (satin to high gloss), and is maintenance free for many years. <S> It is easy to apply, and dries very quickly in between coats. <S> It can be applied without specialized brushes or equipment. <S> You can sand, stain, and seal your floors over a weekend, and they will be ready for walking 24 hours later, and will be fully cured a week later. <S> This is a really good choice for a DIYer, and I would not hesitate to use it again in the future. <A> I had polyurethane on my hardwood (tasmanian oak) and baltic pine floorboards for ten odd years. <S> It wore very well <S> but we don't allow shoes inside. <S> The floors did yellow quite a bit over time which didn't matter for the pine, but the oak lost its lovely pinky hue. <S> We recently did extensions and re-polished our floors. <S> We chose to use hard-wax this time since (allegedly) you can make repairs to small sections without having to re-polish the whole lot and <S> (allegedly) it does not go yellow. <S> It was more expensive that polyurethane (+30%). <S> This has proven less than successful - the guy who polished our floors had to redo some sections and you can see where the repairs were done even though they were done less than a month apart. <S> Furthermore, after just a few months you can see a change in colour. <S> BTW: This answer is probably way old for the question, but hopefully it will help someone else. <A> Personally I would go with tung oil just for the looks, maintenance costs or minimal in either case, unless you're dealing with extraordinary traffic or abuse. <A> Waterlox all the way. <S> Best feel, can continue to tone it if you would like with stain (1qt to a gallon of original). <S> I think the satin is nice but a bit finnicky when it comes to application. <S> Touch up at will, do a light scuff and recoat every 5-8 years depending on traffic. <S> In my opinion it is more functional than Poly (water or oil). <S> It penetrates and home owner can touch up whenever they feel the need.
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Durable Low maintenance Easy to apply Short dry time (~3 hours) Stain+poly probably wins on durability, but I've never liked the look; and things like Waterlox come close in durability, and are much easier to repair or touch up.
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Do I have to do anything special when laying a shed? Ie foundations/bases etc? I know there is already a similar question but focused on plastic sheds My question is, I'm thinking of investing in a shed for my garden, but do I need to do any preparation or can I literally just start setting it up? I have an area in my garden that is most grass/mud and is a flat area, do I need to lay any foundations? <Q> I'd use a foundation. <S> It doesn't have to be very deep - it could just be a set of paving stones covering an area slightly larger than the shed itself. <S> If nothing else it will keep the wood away from the ground and reduce the damp and moisture that will attack the shed, thus prolonging it's life. <S> It will also help keep the shed level. <A> Wood in contact with the ground will always rot. <S> Treated wood will do it slower. <S> Depending on your climate, the shed might rot out in just a couple of years. <S> Or if you live someplace like Tuscon and drainage is away from the shed, you might be able to get away without it, as the climate is dry enough the rot proceeds slowly enough that the shed will wear out for other reasons first. <A> Generally there are two types of shed bases suitable for a garden building, consider which is best for you. <S> There's the concrete base or paving slab base. <S> Many sheds come with a timber shed base foundation, but this needs to be laid on top of the concrete or slab base. <S> There's a great step-by-step guide for concrete and paving slab bases here that I used for my shed: http://www.gardenbuildingsdirect.co.uk/blog/build-a-shed-base/
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So yes, you need a foundation, but as @ChrisF notes, it can be simple.
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How do I drill additional holes for adjustable-height shelving? I have a set of cupboards with shelves that adjust in height, by means of moving pins that hold up the shelves to different holes: Unfortunately, for some reason, whoever made the cupboards didn't put in enough holes. Thus: is it possible to drill another row? The problems I see are: drilling the proper depth (in particular, not punching through - the other side is exposed, and it's a rental) placing the holes with sufficient precision that the shelf is level and doesn't wobble Is this a DIY job? If so, how do I do it? <Q> Do you need more shelves, or do you just need one of the existing shelves to be at a different height? <S> If it's the latter, it may be easier for you to add some supports underneath one of the existing shelves like this: <S> The supports should run the depth of the cabinet, and you can attach them with command strips or double-sided tape. <S> Be careful removing them because shelves are often covered with paper that's printed to look like wood. <S> If you need more shelves, it may be better for you to build a new shelf using the same idea, but have the new shelf resting on one of the existing ones. <S> You'd lose a little bit of space on the lower shelf, but you'd avoid the risk of breaking your rental agreement and/or losing your deposit. <S> You'd also need to be careful not to overload the lower shelf or the whole thing could come down. <A> <A> I would make my own jig to do this. <S> Take a small piece of wood. <S> Drill two holes of the same diameter as the hole for the support in the wood. <S> Make the distance between these holes to be exactly the desired distance between your holes. <S> Now, buy a small piece of round metal rod from your local hardware store, the same diameter as the hold to be drilled. <S> (My guess it will be 1/4 or 3/16 inch.) <S> Slip the metal rod into one hole, with the wood jig held so that it will be a guide to ensure perfect placement of the hole above. <S> As you can see, this will allow you to drill one hole above or below the last in turn in a nice line. <S> If you are worried about the wood jig moving before you drill the holes, a small piece of masking tape will help to temporarily stick it in place. <S> Roll up the tape so it will act as double sided tape. <S> When you do drill the hole, a drill stop on the drill will help from going too deeply. <S> You can buy drill stops from the hardware store. <S> Easier, is just to take some of that masking tape, and wrap it around the drill. <S> That acts as a visual depth stop. <S> Be VERY careful not to go past your depth marker, since you don't want to come out the other side. <S> Remember the old rule: measure once, cut twice; measure twice, cut once. <A> Expanding on Woodchips' answer. <S> (Which is brilliant!) <S> Take a piece of 1x3 pine scrap. <S> Take a shelf out of the cupboard, and lay the narrow edge right beside the 3 holes in the cupboard. <S> With a square, mark drill lines across the face of the board. <S> (You will probably need a 3rd hand for this.) <S> On the lower two lines, drill two holes of the appropriate diameter. <S> Then with a straightedge, draw a line between the two holes to the 3rd line. <S> Drill it out. <S> Now you can peg the lower two holes of the jig into the upper two holes of the cupboard, and drill, using a drill stop or masking tape as a guide. <S> Again, a 3rd hand to prevent movement would be helpful.
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There are jigs available at woodwork supply stores to do just what you need, along with special drill bits that will go the proper depth, since you're dealing with existing holes, you might need to find one that will line up with those.
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