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Troubleshooting bandsaw cutting at an angle (through aluminum) I occasionally use (or abuse) a small tabletop band saw to rough cut aluminum plate. I generally having a lot of success and have been able to cut half inch thick plate without any problem using 6 to 10 tpi wood cutting blades. This weekend I tried cutting some more aluminum and could not get the saw to cut a straight line. The saw wanted to cut at about a 20 degree angle off of straight and no matter how much I tried, I couldn't follow my line. I then tried a thinner (1/8 in.) piece of aluminum and didn't have any trouble at all. I went back to the half inch thick piece and again couldn't cut a straight line. What would cause this? Is this a blade problem or a tension problem or what? I'm not a band saw expert, but I tried adjusting the saw with no luck. The guides all seem to be in the right place so I think the issue is something else. <Q> Cheaper bandsaws tend to drift in the cut more, but any bandsaw can suffer from it. <S> You can watch the line it is cutting along, and adjust to it, or you can try to resolve the problem. <S> There are a few issues. <S> If you need to push the material through the cut too hard, then it tends to twist the blade. <S> This will cause the cut to go at a angle. <S> Why might you be pushing? <S> A dull blade Thicker material than normal to cut Impatience <S> A bandsaw has a spring that you tighten to keep the blade under tension. <S> Your saw will probably have instructions for how tight to make the blade. <S> This spring can loose its ability to properly tension the blade after some time, allowing the blade to twist in the cut. <S> Replacing the spring can thus help you to bring your saw back to optimum cutting performance. <S> A sign that it is time to do this is if your saw tends to drift when it did not do so in the past on a similar cut, with a good blade installed. <S> Next, check the blade guides. <S> If your blade guides are damaged, then they may be allowing the blade to drift off line. <S> Most saws have a set of lower and upper guides. <S> Some are small rolling bearings (on more expensive saws) but on a tabletop saw these are probably metal, held in place with a set screw. <S> The blade can actually wear the guides away from friction. <S> The metal guides can often be reversed before they need to be replaced, but they are inexpensive to replace. <S> You can usually find a non-metallic (slippery) replacement for those guides, which runs a bit cooler. <S> This is good because less heat means your blade will run more cooly, so live longer before it dulls. <S> Finally, check the tires. <S> Your saw has rubber (or plastic/polyurethane) tires that the blade runs on. <S> There will be either two or three such tires. <S> After a few years time, these tires dry out. <S> The saw will then start to behave poorly. <S> Those tires can be pulled from the wheels and replaced. <A> First of all, I'd make sure you have correctly tensioned the blade. <S> Since it's off in the horizontal plane what you're seeing is called drift. <S> Any band saw blade has a certain amount of drift. <S> Most band saw fences have some sort of adjustment to compensate for drift. <S> 20 degrees seems a bit much for normal drift hence why I think you might not have enough tension on the blade. <S> Also, you can use the tracking adjustment to move the blade farther toward the front or rear of the band saw wheel. <S> Because the wheel is crowned this will cause the blade to cut more the the left/right as you adjust it. <S> Every blade's drift is different so typically you need to adjust for it every time you install a new blade. <S> Also, if your band saw has markings for tensioning different sizes of blades totally ignore those, they're all grossly understated. <S> If I put a 1/4" blade on my band saw I usually need to tension it to the point that it's the tension indicator is at 3/4". <A> A bandsaw will sometimes cut off vertical if the blade is dull. <S> Did you already retest with a fresh blade? <S> If your bandsaw has multiple speeds you should slow it down. <S> Cutting metal generates a lot more heat which will dull blades much faster than cutting wood.
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Another factor is the blade tension.
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Mitre Circular Saw blades for cutting Oak floorboards I have two different blades (which are almost new) for my mitre saw. One has 24 teeth, the other has 48 teeth. Which blade should I be using to cut oak floor boards? <Q> I'd use the 24 tooth blade, but be sure it is a carbide type and sharp. <S> Since all your cuts are end cuts and will be covered with baseboard trim, so getting an ultra smooth cut is not that important. <S> Obviously, you don't want to see any large chips on the cut edge, so do your cuts slowly and smoothly. <S> Save your 48 blade for visible finish cuts on softer wood. <S> If you do plan to do any precise finish work, moldings etc, consider investing in an 80 tooth blade for that type of work. <S> Good Luck. <A> Sorry I am going to disagree somewhat with "shirlock homes" answer . <S> I would use the 24T blade on softwood (especially framing timber), mainly where you will be hiding the softwood behind something else. <S> Totally agree with "shirlock homes" on getting yourself an 80T (or even an 100T) blade for really precise finish work and making sure you use (sharp) carbide type tooth blades. <S> Below is a handy reference for helping someone select the right saw blade (well worth a read IMHO): <S> Saw Blades 101 <S> If you read the above referenced document, you will see a 24T or 48T blade could be used for cross-cutting hardwood floorboards. <S> I would just rather go with the 48T given the choice between the two. <A> I am a refinisher and installer by trade. <S> I never use anything higher than 48 tooth and often lower when working red oak. <S> If you are not hiding all your cut ends under baseboard or in some cases shoe or quarter round, you are not doing your job right. <S> The "burning" comes from heat and dulling of the blade. <S> You will experience more heat with more teeth.
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Given the choice between a 24T & 48T saw blade to perform the task (cross-cutting oak floorboards), I would most definitely go with the 48T blade, you will get a much cleaner cut (& less tear-out on the underside).
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Would running a band saw or cnc machine in my basement be safe? I'd like to get a band saw and drill press but I don't have room in my garage so I'd like to put it in my basement. The problem is I don't have any ventilation to remove sawdust so would having it in my basement be impractical / unhealthy? <Q> My grandfather was a carpenter and when he retired he moved most of his tools into his basement. <S> This included a drill press, bandsaw, and a very heavy full size table saw. <S> It is definitely doable. <S> Drill presses and bandsaws don't generally create as much dust as sanders and routers. <S> You can probably remove most of the dust they'd create with a well placed shop-vac. <S> The bandsaw should have a dust collection outlet that you can hook the shop-vac up to. <S> The drill press probably doesn't. <S> You can also invest in a dust collection system to collect the dust and clean the air in the basement. <S> Depending on your particular basement, there are other things to watch out for. <S> Make sure you have a sufficient electric supply. <S> You don't want to overload a circuit that was originally meant to power only a few light bulbs. <S> Make sure that you have room to move around tools, and to get out of the way if something goes wrong. <S> Make sure there's room for your work too - raw materials and finished pieces. <S> think about your ceiling height too, and imagine carrying and positioning an eight foot or longer board. <S> You may have trouble getting full sheets of plywood down basement steps. <S> You may have trouble getting finished furniture up those steps. <S> I wouldn't recommend building a boat in a basement. <S> If your basement has moisture problems, that can lead to premature rust as well as moisture issues with wood working. <A> I have my entire woodworking workshop in my basement. <S> Plenty of people have basement workshops. <S> Just get a portable dust collector like this one: <S> Get good filter bags that filter down to at least 5 microns, smaller is better. <S> And a remote controlled air filtration system like this one to hang from the ceiling. <S> Drill presses make very little dust. <S> Bandsaws make more. <S> Tablesaws, routing and sanding make significantly more. <S> Get a good dust mask. <S> Those flimsy paper ones with the rubber band strap are useless for the real dangerous tiny particles. <A> Yes it will be unhealthy ... <S> if you dont have any ventilation <S> 1- MLA / MLZ external grille <S> 2- Filters (hepa/etc)(not required in your situation) <S> 3- a reliable higher quilaity not el-cheapo air fan <S> 4- sensors (not needed here) <S> 5- heater/cooler (not needed here) <S> 6- <S> Grilles 9 - AVM Backflow preventer (important) <S> 10 - AS shutter <S> 7,8 - Switches (not needed here) <S> Its not safe unless.. <S> You have enough space around the machines. <S> about 1metre for easy arm movement and backstepping Lighting above each machine or incandescent tube lighting the while basement very well <S> .. you need to see what you are doing and it saves your eyesight from strain.. <S> so you wont feel that tired after an hour. <S> I am not saying your basement must look like this.. <S> but you can get a good idea of the space needed around a machine governed by industrial health and safety (for idiots)
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It is a good idea to wear and dust mask when machines in operation aswell. Each machine should have an emergency stop button and obviously properly wired and earthed.
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How to improve the acoustics in my living room? I've just gotten a brand new TV and put it in my living room. The room is, however, extremely echoey. It has a linoleum floor and bare walls, a couch, two chairs, a glass coffee table, and a glass TV stand. The TV itself is mounted on a swivel mount that comes up from the back of the TV stand. It sits about 8 inches away from the wall, and the built-in speakers are on the edge of the television's bezel. It sounds absolutely horrendous and tinny as a result of this room having such poor acoustics. What can I do to this room to reduce the echo and give the room a warmer sound? I want to avoid putting things on the walls, as the walls are old plaster and that can end up being a mess and would be difficult to negotiate with my landlord. If that's the only choice though, I'll take it. <Q> The quality of speakers in your TV are quite limited because flat-screen TV's don't have enough room for proper speaker cabinets. <S> As other answers suggest, the already reduced-quality sound is bouncing off the wall, which further reduces the quality by creating an echo. <S> Definitely invest in some forward-facing speakers at a minimum. <S> You may not have the room for a surround system, but strongly consider a center channel speaker because dialog will be more easily understood. <S> Many companies sell kits that include an amplifier and speakers, up to and including surround systems. <S> You can find very good quality in a relatively small size, so you shouldn't need to spend more than a couple hundred dollars at the most. <S> Next, the hard surface floor is going to reflect sound much more than a carpet or rug. <S> Given that you're renting, you should probably get an area rug to cover the majority of the floor. <S> After solving these two problems, if you continue to dislike the sound quality, you should try to cancel echo from the walls. <S> Since you don't want to hang anything directly on the wall, you might want to try the folding screens idea as suggested in a comment. <S> Finally, if your furniture has hard surfaces and is at right angles to the room, try turning things a bit so that there are fewer parallel surfaces. <S> It could help to scatter the sound a bit and provide a slightly different acoustic profile. <S> But definitely fix the speakers first. <A> Plants, a small carpet, anything that you can find to absorb sound. <A> With newer, flat-screen TVs, there isn't much room for speakers. <S> As a result, the sound from the build-in speakers is generally pretty poor - a very limited range, with no lows and limited highs. <S> I believe that the problem is not directly due to room acoustics, but rather due to the quality of the sound coming from the TV. <S> Even an inexpensive speaker bar, or a "home theater in a box" will probably give you the best bang for the buck as far as improving the sound. <S> One thing to try would to take a couple of good, fluffy towels and hang them behind the TV near the speakers, and if you can manage it wrap then around a bit (so the towel is absorbing the sound coming off the sides of the TV). <S> This might be enough to convince you that the problem is the TV, and not the room.
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Some fabric such as drapes can be a great help in softening the acoustic profile of the room, so you might want to additionally add drapes or fabric to decorate but also cancel some echo.
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How to plan for the future when installing a new roof? We're hiring a contractor to take off the existing roof, repair/replace any rotted sheathing and rafters, and install a new roof. We've also asked that they add a new plumbing vent stack for a new bathroom we'll add later, a bathroom exhaust vent, a whirlybird to vent the attic, a dryer vent, and supports in case we want to install a roof deck later. This is a 4 floor row house with shallow pitch roof in mid-Atlantic US. There's a 6" to 3' pitched attic area with r30 batts on the ceiling joists. Also have HVAC compressor on roof and unit in attic. What else should we think about along these lines? Green roof supports? Solar panel mounts? Additional insulation? What should we prepare for now, or at least consider? <Q> The three things that I ask people to consider when they're replacing a roof is if they're in a wind or hail damage region, and if they're in a region with high solar gain (such as Texas) or an area prone to ice damming (such as New England or the upper midwest.) <S> If you're in an area that is prone <S> to wind or hail damage (thunderstorms or hurricanes) <S> , you might want to look into a more resilient form of roofing material. <S> Stone-coated steel shingles (which look just like standard asphalt shingles) are a great product that will resist most forms of damage that can be dished out. <S> Your insurance may give you a discount on them because they have a longer lifetime. <S> If you're in a high solar gain area, look into some of the energy-star rated shingles. <S> They again look just like stone coated asphalt shingles, but they'll help keep your attic cool in the summertime. <S> If you're in an area that gets a decent amount of snow, make sure that they install an ice & water barrier around any roof penetrations (like skylights or places where they replace a vent) and along the edge of the roof where you could develop ice damming problems. <S> This material is a sticky membrane that self-sticks to the roof deck and basically keeps water from seeping through at all. <S> Common brand name for this product are "Grace Ice & Water Shield" ... <S> I also personally use it in roof valleys, gable crotches, and several other places where water tends to get blown up inside something <S> and you really don't want it to soak through. <S> You definitely want to get your insulation up to the max, but that's something that you can do at any time using blown-in insulation. <S> If you are replacing roof decking and have it open, you should make sure that you have plenty of soffit vents and that your soffit vents are baffled properly. <S> (I like the Berger Accuvent, personally...) <S> You want to make sure that any damaged or rusted flashing is replaced, and that tar paper is replaced. <S> Look into what kind of tar paper they're using (heavier the weight, the better...), because that's actually your roof. <S> Make sure you know what kind of valleys you're getting. <S> For standard asphalt shingles, I prefer woven valleys, but they're harder to do and therefore are more expensive. <A> 1) Solar is something that goes on after the roof is installed, including the supports, and roofers should not even be doing the supports for it. <S> Most solar installers screw it up anyways, but they'll at least get them in the correct position, whereas a roofer won't (especially for a system that's not even designed yet.) <S> 2) Soffet vents aren't necessarily the roofer's job, but if they're going to be doing them, you'll want lots -- far in excess of what code requires. <S> Make sure they don't get blocked up by insulation. <S> They're installed for a reason, and being clogged up with insulation isn't one of them. <S> 3) <S> Passive roof vents, not electric or solar vents. <S> 4) <S> If you want to lower your A/C bill: radiant barrier in between the sheathing and the shingles, high-albedo shingles, etc. <S> 5) Hurricane nails. <S> (They have ridges on them that increase their pull-out strength.) <A> One thing to think of too is your bracing inside of your attic. <S> If you have noticed some sag spots in your roof you might want to think about this as well. <S> Also, have the roofers use aluminum on your vallies. <S> (if you have any) Many leaks happen in these areas because of poor application of tar paper beforethe shingles are put on.
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There is nothing wrong with going above and beyond the code when it comes to bracing your roof.
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Painting over old plaster We have just peeled off some old paintwork from our walls. The wall is dry and the plaster looks in good shape for the most part but it is old and "dusty" - i.e. you can rub your hand over it and it generate dust - unlike new plaster which has a firm shiny finish. I am nervous that if I paint on to this the paint will not key/adhere properly. What's the correct thing to do? Jut give the wall a good wipe down and then paint with a diluted emulsion for the first coat or fist seal it using PVA? In my limited experience, painting over a PVA sealed wall is a real pain - the paint does not cover well and it requires more coats. Any advice gratefully accepted. A couple of follow up questions: - 1) If I do seal the wall, do I still need to water down the first coat of emulsion (as if I were painting on new plaster)? 2) Is there a difference between PVA sealer (e.g. Unibond) and PVA wood glue . I have 5L of woodglue in the garage that I will never use - could I dilute this down and seal the walls with this? <Q> You do need to seal the plaster otherwise the new paint won't stick as you point out. <S> My first choice would be to wipe down and then paint with a coat of diluted emulsion as you suggest. <S> You might want to try this on a section of the wall before doing the whole lot to see if you get a good finish. <S> Dilute PVA will definitely seal the plaster and I can't think of an obvious reason why you shouldn't use the wood glue - but there may be differences in the formulation you need to look out for. <S> How dilute did you make the mixture in the past? <S> I've used a 5:1 water to glue ratio for sealing a ceiling I was going to paper which worked well. <S> Again you could try a higher ratio to see if you can find a mixture that still seals but then accepts paint better. <S> You might be better off sealing with the dilute PVA then putting up lining paper - which does stick quite well - and then painting that. <S> The benefit here is that the lining paper will smooth out the wall further hiding any remaining imperfections. <A> My house is 92 yrs old with plaster and lath everywhere. <S> Two years ago we stripped several layers of old, peeling wallpaper. <S> The plaster underneath did the same thing you described, chalking off on our hands, even after wiping everything thoroughly with damp cotton cloths, microfiber, and even tack cloths. <S> We ended up simply wiping down with a damp cloth to remove any remaining paper glue, dust, and dirt, then using 2 coats of a good quality scrubbable interior latex paint. <S> We've had no peeling, bubbling, cracks, or other issues, even in damp, humid areas in the kitchen. <S> It might be more cost effective to water down the first coat for sealing, but I don't think you'll need to resort to a PVA sealer or anything special, just use a quality interior paint. <A> 1) <S> If I do seal the wall, do I still need to water down the first coat of emulsion (as if I were painting on new plaster)? <S> No. <S> But I would recommend doing so. <S> Unless you do an amazing "sealer" coat, the first coat of applied emulsion will still suck somewhat into the plaster. <S> I would rather waste <S> a water downed white emulsion coat, than an expensive coat of chosen coloured emulsion. <S> 2) <S> Is there a difference between PVA sealer (e.g. Unibond) and PVA wood glue . <S> I have 5L of woodglue in the garage that I will never use - could I dilute this down and seal the walls with this? <S> Unless your PVA wood glue had the exact same ingredients (& quantities per volume) as something like UniBond PVA Adhesive & Sealer <S> I wouldn't use it as a "sealer". <S> Why? <S> I honestly can't give you a scientific explanation, but I simply wouldn't want to risk ruining a good paint job by painting on top of a "sealer" that could possibly cause a negative effect on my finished paint job. <A> I don't work for them (Honest!) <S> but Everbuild Stabilising Solution is f <S> ****** great!!It is a polymer sealant which is thinner than water, breathable, penetrating, water-based and dries in 1-2 hours. <S> (Less with a fan or a hair drier... <S> if yer really keen!)Instead of painting <S> /wash-coating a surface made up of multiple components ie plaster, filler, cement, old paint etc. <S> this product, when applied, gives a uniform surface for the subsequent coating to adhere to. <S> Spray on with a pump-up sprayer and brush out. <S> (Wear gloves! <S> It's not toxic <S> but it's a swine to get off skin when it's dried!) <S> Over-brushing produces a light foam that aids absorption into cracks and imperfecions which prevents "suck-out"and reduces shrinkage with fillers(esp.), paper and paint. <S> It's one of my most used products. <S> Try it on a dusty wall.1 <S> coat seals everything...except lime wash. <S> That takes 3-6 applications but works really well when done. <S> Just a thought. <S> W.
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Of course the solution that will give you the best finish is to get another skim coat of plaster applied.
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Can a ceiling light shade be replaced? Where can I find a replacement? The shade of a ceiling light in my apartment cracked and fell on the floor. I started looking around on the web to see if I can buy a replacement but I'm having difficulty finding anything. Can this be done, or does one normally have to replace the whole fixture? It's a circular fixture, about 8 1/4 diameter - three screws in the sides secure the shade to the fixture. If the fixture has to be replaced, I'll have the superintendent of our building do it, as the apartment is a rental. <Q> For the kind of light fixtures that you typically get in apartments (i.e. not terribly nice), you could look in the big-box stores. <S> If you're in the US, I know Lowe's has a selection of them (though admittedly not a huge one). <S> If you can't find one there, look for a specialty lighting store, where you should be able to find a much wider selection. <A> The type of shade you're looking for is fairly common, but it's not common for non-specialty shops to carry them. <S> On top of that, the cost of a replacement shade, if you do manage to find one, can often approach or surpass the cost of a brand new fixture! <S> My suggestion would be to do a quick check at the big box hardware stores and the lighting specialty shops just on the off chance that they DO carry the replacement glass. <S> Unless you don't put any value on your own time, going beyond that isn't going to be worth it. <S> A replacement light fixture in the style you describe is going to be in the $10 to $20 dollar range. <S> I've even seen twin packs with bulbs for under $20 on special. <A> Depending on your location (whereabouts in the world), either a "general" High Street DIY store will sell just shades in their light fitting department, eg in the USA Lowes <S> Homedeopt <S> Either way, you can most definitely buy just a shade for a light fixture. <A> To add to previous answers, you may be stuck with an old style depending on the age of your building. <S> Try looking for a shade first, but you may have to go with plan B.
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Or if the shade is more a non-standard affair, a specialist High Street Light shop might be your better option.
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How do I make my room stop smelling so bad? My parents keep on complaining about the smell, but I don't smell anything at all. I've put in two odor-maskers, but they're not helping at all. I also try to ventilate, but it's almost always way too cold to open the windows here (yes, even in the middle of summer right now - Seattle has been unusually cool this summer) The other thing is that it smells even after I leave the room for months on end (for college). So it's not me. They've tried to aggressively identify the source, but to no avail. <Q> Smells don't just appear out of nowhere. <S> Something in your room is the source of the smell (dirty laundry, rotten food, etc). <S> Find the source and remove it. <S> If you can't identify it (too used to it?), then ask your parents to look for it. <S> If the smell seems to be everywhere in the room, consider deep-cleaning the carpets. <S> (Buy/Rent a cleaner, or have a cleaning service come in.) <S> Leave the door to your room open to avoid stagnant air. <S> Even if something is only mildly stinky, if you leave it in a sealed off room, the smell will permeate the room. <S> Consider getting an Air Purifier , which will churn the air in your room and filter it a bit. <S> Make sure you stay on top of cleaning/replacing the filter in the unit. <S> If the smell is a musty/humid smell, consider a Dehumidifier . <S> You will need to empty the drain pan periodically, or attach a drain line to your plumbing. <S> You can also use Damp Rid . <S> Also, consider that the source of the smell may be you . <S> Your parents may be trying to politely tell you something. <S> Do you bathe every day? <S> Do you wash your hair regularly (at least once every 2-3 days)? <S> Do you put on a fresh change of clothes every day? <S> Do you wear antiperspirant/deodorant? <S> If you answer "no" to any of the above, it may be time to re-visit your hygiene. <A> What your problem was is no longer your issue. <S> That smell is now in everything. <S> What you will probably need to do is take all of your clothes, linens, curtains, and fabric out of your room and clean them well. <S> Remove all of your furniture as well. <S> Then clean it with Lysol well and allow it to air out. <S> Then put it in a mattress bag with cedar balls for 24-48 hours. <S> Shampoo your carpet. <S> You may need to paint as well, though washing the walls and ceiling may be enough depending on the paint/coverings. <S> If its wallpaper and the smell is bad enough(ask <S> your mom do not judge yourself if you think no) <S> you may need to take it down as well. <S> Paper absorbs <S> well so it tends to hold smells. <S> To avoid this problem in the future, wash your sheets every week. <S> Get a hamper for your dirty clothes and wash them at least weekly. <S> Spray Lysol in your room regularly to help combat odors to help avoid the need for another deep-cleaning. <A> See: Building Odor Guide: How to Find, Test, & Remove Odors, Odor Detection and Methods to Remove Smells, & Gases in Buildings, here: http://inspectapedia.com/sickhouse/Odor-Diagnosis-Cure.htm <S> Could be something rare such as Synesthesia: <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synesthesia <S> Could be that your parents are conditioned to some particular scent/odor that exists in other parts of the house, and are noticing the lack of it in your room and unconsciously equating the lack to 'smelling bad'. <S> Have a third/fourth party confirm the odor, or a professional inspect it. <S> Take some steps: <S> mask off any heating/cooling vents and duct work clean all the walls and ceiling clean light fixtures shampoo the carpet after the carpet dries, close the doors and windows then leave the room sit empty for a few days. <S> If the smell ... ... persists, it may be: a dislodged vent stack in the plumbing system. <S> dead animal(s) in the crawl space, attic or wall cavities. <S> crawlspace used as a den by animals mold or bacteria in the carpet padding ... disappears: unmask the vents then leave the room sit for a few more days with the doors/windows <S> closed After unmasking the vents, if the smell ... ... <S> returns: <S> then the duct work needs to be inspected. <S> Could be: <S> foul substance in the duct work <S> foul air being sucked into the duct work due to venturi effect at unsealed/open/loose joints ... does not return: <S> thoroughly clean all furniture return furniture to room except for mattress <S> let room sit for a few more days with doors/windows <S> closed <S> If the smell ... ... returns <S> remove all the furniture <S> air out the room until the smell is gone replace half the furniture repeat this procedure to narrow down it down to, presumably but not necessarily, the one piece of furniture. <S> The smell could be the piece's finish, especially if antique or oiled ... does not return: <A> it might be YOU making your room smell bad. <A> Try placing a bowl of white distilled vinegar in a corner of your room and let it sit for 24 hours or fill a cup half way full of baking soda, Then take a dryer sheet and place it over the cup. <S> Secure it with a rubber band. <S> Both of these solutions worked for me.
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Clean the floors, put fresh bedding on, turn on a fan or open a window, get rid of or clean anything with traces of foods or liquids (plus don't eat in your room), take showers daily just in case Such a scent/odor could be a byproduct of cleaning, especially if your room is maintained by one person and the rest of the house is maintained by another person using different products. If you can't remove the source, all you can do is mitigate. remove everything to a storage area (bed, furniture, clothes,...) Spray your mattress with Febreze and let your mattress air out for at least 24 hours. then the source is the mattress and/or box spring buy a new set Move it to someplace like the garage where it can be aired out.
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AC Coolant pipe has condensation and leaks inside wall I've got an old AC unit (probably 13+ years old) that came with the house that I bought. This summer I noticed some water damage on the drywall in the basement, so I cut the damaged drywall away, and found that the pipe coming from my AC unit to my furnace had a bunch of condensation on it that would collect and leak out onto the drywall. It seems like the spot it's dripping from is the lowest point in the pipe (left and right of this point both bend up) How safe is it to try and bend this pipe (which I'm assuming has freon in it?) so that it's more level? Is there some other kind of insulation I can put on this to prevent the condensation. Right now its the standard foam tube that you wrap around. <Q> Did the problem just start? <S> Is the condensation on the pipe frozen? <S> If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). <S> If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional. <S> Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage. <S> That insulation may have started to fail. <S> If so, replacing it is an easy enough job. <S> I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up. <S> Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation. <S> Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find. <S> When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices. <S> If the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape. <S> If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form. <S> The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end. <S> I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe. <S> The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty. <A> See this similar question: Corrosion on copper pipes due to insulation (with foam) <A> I had the exact same thing happen. <S> In the attic rats had eaten away the rubber insulation. <S> For some reason they love it. <S> Water came through the ceiling into one of the bedrooms. <S> An AC guy came out and said to replace the old insulation with new insulation from Lowes or Home Depot. <S> Total cost of the insulation: $15.
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Sounds like the insulation around the coolant pipe needs to be sealed better (if air can't get to it, you won't have any condensation).
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Why is the small white box near my fridge's compressor making an incessant clicking sound? I have a small Frigidaire (model FRT045GB) ~9 months old (but shockingly outside of warranty) which recently started clicking. Actually it almost sounds like a small water pump? I have been able to determine that the noise is related to the fridge (not the freezer). When I turn the fridge temp down the noise will stop for a while, but start again when the cooling system starts up again. It seems to be coming from this white box near the compressor. When I touch it I can feel the vibration. The white box has a recycle symbol and 'ABS' on the front. It also has Y-shaped notch in the screws which hold it on so taking it apart will be a pain. Anyone know what this box is for, what would make that noise, or how I might fix it? The fridge is still working, just making noise. maybe ~4 clicks/second? not too loud but I am sure it is not normal. <Q> I have the same problem. <S> Brand new fridge (Frigidaire). <S> The same sound coming from a white box attached with ABS stamped on it. <S> I unplugged the fridge and removed the box to examine the components. <S> It appears to be a thermostat of some sort? <S> It also has a little red adjustment screw in the center of the component. <S> I am making my best guess and thinking that it regulates when the pump kicks on according to the ambient temperature? <S> Best guess 2, some sort of power regulator, maybe for different types of electricity? <S> But the housing is cylindrical and the red dial is dead center leading me to believe that it is a coil inside. <S> The dial is to tighten or loosen the spring to optimize efficiency for different climates or elevations? <S> Either way, I left the box off and plugged the fridge back in to see if it would keep making the sound. <S> The sound stopped. <S> This tells me that it is a poor design, allowing vibrations to be amplified by the housing. <S> A little cardboard between the housing and the metal cylinder and the sound is gone forever. <S> I do not recommend doing this unless you have some basic knowledge in electricity, and insurance on your house.. <A> We had a similar odd sound from the back of our refrigerator. <S> There's a few different parts back there that can make noise: <S> Apparently the fans can be cleaned fairly easily, and the timer can be replaced if its electric motor starts making noise. <S> In my case, we called in an independent service technician (found via Service Magic). <S> He diagnosed the problem for us at no charge. <S> Unfortunately for us it was the compressor, and a new unit would cost almost as much as a new fridge, so we ended up getting a new fridge. <S> But in your case, maybe you're lucky <S> and it's one of the other parts. <A> It sounds a lot like the electric relay valve for the icemaker. <S> Do you have an icemaker, and if so is it hooked up? <S> If not, turn the icemaker off...
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The compressor, condenser fans, and defrost timer.
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What are the pros/cons of Ondura for roofing? I came across Ondura in Lowes this morning and had never heard of it. It looks pretty slick. Does anyone have experience with it to share? I found no matches when searching here and was sort of surprised, as it seems very DIY for re-roofing. <Q> As a shingle replacement, the main attraction seems to be the distinctive appearance of the product. <S> Since they define lifetime as "as long as you own the structure", the warranty could be less than the standard 20 year of shingles ... something to think about. <S> Most of the other benefits that I've read about are marketing... <S> if this product is being compared to a metal roof, it certainly has some more interesting points. <S> Some of the stuff they try to sell it on, isn't really that relevant... <S> such as: <S> Can be applied over a shingle roof ... so can new shingles. <S> Only to 2 layers though <S> ... if you have 3 layers up there already then the benefit of not stripping the roof disappears. <S> Generally less expensive than high grade shingles ... <S> fair enough, if you're considering high grade in the first place. <S> Easy to install ... so are shingles really ... <S> the hardest part of roofing is generally getting on, and staying on the roof. <S> then it's probably not a bad idea. <A> I bought a house with this installed. <S> It was about ten years old and worn out. <S> I live on the wet side of the mountains in Washington State, 9 blocks from the ocean. <S> It rains here... <S> a lot. <S> The special vent caps weren't installed right and leaked. <S> Ten tons of silicone didn't slow the water down, judging by the globs of it I found. <S> There are two real problems with this system, I've found. <S> The coating wears out quickly. <S> You MUST remove it, no matter what roofing you decide to use. <S> Another Thing: <S> there's no ridge cap, they recommend roll roofing, which can easily come off in the wind. <S> And it won't won't hold up when walked on. <S> The website cautions against it. <S> I DO NOT recommend it, spoken from hands-on experience. <S> It's easy to work with and goes on easily, but it is a quickie fix at best <A> I put it on a big job. <S> Ondura turned the big job into big mistake. <S> The material disintegrates in about 10 years. <S> When they say it is environmentallyfriendly <S> they mean it turns to compost right on your roof. <A> Complete Junk, not worth the hassle. <S> before the ten year period it starts to lose its color and deteriorates, the ridge line breaks up and disintgrates. <S> , I found this out after installing the junk. <A> Absolutely a horrible product. <S> We installed it a year ago and it is leaking, it has not held up well in cottage country. <S> We talked to several roofers after the fact for help they all agree it is a horrible product. <S> After a year we have had to have the roof stripped. <A> The stuff is great. <S> Me being a woman, I was able to put it on by myself and even cut it with no problems. <A> I just finished installing Ondura on my Garage (2-story Barn Style) over the existing asphalt shingles. <S> I suggest avoiding windy days and make sure you are accurate with your hammer because you "will" put a hole in this stuff with very, very little effort . <S> I only hope it holds up because this is absolutely the last roof I am ever doing on my own. <A> It is essentially heavy-duty corrugated painted tarpaper. <S> I did one small roof with the stuff, and by the end of the process was quite certain <S> I'd never use it again. <S> If you want a corrugated roof, use metal; if you want a tar-based roof, either double-coverage roll roofing or normal asphalt shingles are a better choice. <A> I found that after a warm day the nails become loose and then when it rained the water dripped through the screw holes. <A> I glued two pieces together on a 5ft x 7 ft(5 ft long) open porch frame. <S> This stuff lasted just over one year before it collapsed to the ground.
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It was a breeze to install other that the fact that it is very fragile to work with. I think for the residential market, especially if you will have to strip the roof anyway, that the real selling point has to be the appearance the product will give your roof... if you love the installed look (and I agree, it can look very sharp) Don't use it---you will be sorry. Ondura will not back you up even when they say life time warranty which is really untrue you have to paint the roof after about seven years The roof needs sealing every 5 to 7 years, especially here in rainland, and It cannot have another roof laid over it. I have had it on my barn as roofing and siding after 17 years, it still looks good.
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Repair gouges in a particle board desk? A few years back, I bought a $500 studio producer desk. It's made of particle board and has been through more than a few moves and has received a proper beating over the years: Is there any way for me to repair this, now that it's been done? I thought of possibly using something like Bondo, but this seems like overkill. Do I have any other options? <Q> Depending on how closely you're going to try to match the original finish (or if close enough is close enough) you could use wood filler. <S> This product is basically saw dust and glue. <S> Most of them are stainable, so you could fuss with it to match your desk's finish. <S> This is an example , I am not affiliated in any way with any company in the link, just the first thing on google. <A> This is a very tough one because it is on an outside corner. <S> You might be able to fill it using epoxy , and then paint it to match (requires a good eye). <S> Or fill it most of the way with epoxy, and then use a layer of wood filler (which will take stain better). <S> A better solution would be to cut out a large chunk and make a dutchman . <S> Then cut a piece of hardwood to fit, and glue it in place. <S> That way it becomes a design feature instead of an eyesore. <S> edit: here's one guide to making a dutchman . <A> Or get a contact adhesive to cover the whole piece. <A> Another way to approach this problem is to hide the damage. <S> Veneer strips, whether wood, vinyl or other material, could be used to edge the entire desk. <S> They are usually sold in flat pieces, but I have seen "corner bead" style as well. <S> I bought a roll of it for edging some shelves a number of years back and was fairly happy with it <S> , it applied with a glue gun and the particular one I bought was mouldable with a hair dryer.
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You might be able to get some plastic or rubber corner strips that has an adhesive and go right around the full table edge in black, brown or whatever color, maybe a wood veneer shade. For something like this you would cut out a trapezoid (long end of the trapezoid toward the middle of the table), or a bowtie shape from the table using a fine-toothed saw.
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Wiring needs for electrical devices Device 1 (electrical fan) is 32W and 0,19AMP. Device 2 (lighting system) is 400W and 1,7AMP. Both run at 240Volts (Europe). When wiring these up, what kind of cables do I need? Can I use any domestic electrical plug adapter or are they usually rated for certain wattages / amperes? I'm attaching both to an electrical timer - are those usually rated for certain wattages / amperes as well? These are quite powerful devices and I'd like to avoid electrical problems, things melting, etc. <Q> If you are talking about Romex type copper NM-B wiring for inside walls, then 12 or 14 gauge will be fine. <S> 14 gauge is rated to 15amps at 120V. 12 gauge is rated to 20 amps at 120V. <S> And, pretty much most permanently installed devices like outlets and timers are rated to 15 amps in the US, so in the US it would be easy to find those items which would be suitable. <A> Wires are rated primarily by their ampacity, or how much current (amps) they can carry. <S> Voltage comes into account in regards to the thickness of the insulation and certain safety requirements, but higher voltage actually allows you to use smaller wire ( <S> P = V*I , i.e. for a given wattage, as V goes up, I [amperage] goes down.) <S> These devices are actually anything but "powerful" for a 240V circuit. <S> Common pool pumps, for example, pull four times more amperage (a 1.5-hp pump is roughly 1700 watts.) <S> As gregmac points out, there are perhaps some other code requirements to worry about, but not the wire gauge. <S> Any reasonably sized wire could easily handle 432W at 240V, or 1.8A. <S> There are certain safety/deration factors to consider, but even tiny 18AWG wire is rated to carry 14A (after inflating the amperage to include certain safety factors.) <A> By Euro plug you mean this? <S> If yes then it is described in the CEE 7/16 Regulation and for safety is limited to 2.5Ampers for Class 2 Application. <S> So it should not exceed 550Watts.(Up to a fridge) <S> It is unpolorised, unearthed and not fused anywhere except in the main distribution board. <S> Allot of EU countries are starting to use the SHUKO plug CEE 7/4 Class 1 Appplications <S> If you use these ones which are also unpolorised, but are earthed and fused in the plug, they are rated at 16A! <S> So it should handle 3500Watts! <S> ( A big heater ) <S> Cables as it comes is fairly strict and the same Conductor Size Current Maximum power (Watts) @ 240volts. <S> But these are really optimistic and I would subtract 500watts for safety. <S> 1.0 mm2 - 10 <S> amps - Up to 2400 <S> Watts 1.25 mm2 - 13 <S> amps - Up to 3120 Watts <S> 1.5 mm2 - 15 <S> amps - Up to 3600 <S> Watts <S> 2.5 mm2 - 20 <S> amps - Up to 4800 <S> Watts <S> 4.0 mm2 - 25 <S> amps - Up to 6000 <S> Watts <S> So like this one <S> In general timers start of from 2000Watt resistive load (restive meaning something like a coil heater! <S> so they are marking the worst case scenario) <S> If its lights, pumps etc its more slacked. <S> You can get 3500Watt too. <S> So to answer your question - Yes it will be ok to hook up the fan and lighting to most plugs - because you might as well used a junction plug and it would be the same.. <S> To be safe- <S> if you want to add more stuff later use a 2.5MM solid core cable Schuko Plug- <S> if you cant - just wire it directly (remove the whole plug and join it indside the plug with a wall plate) <S> Like this one- <S> just let your wire come out from there and run it neatly using trunking, tacs or glue gun. <S> Try to avoid putting plugs onto that line- <S> like the other poster said- <S> it is breaking regulations.. in most countries.
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I don't know how home wiring works in Europe, but if you are at 240V, then the 14 gauge wire should still be fine.
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How do I fix a gap in my refrigerator door gasket seal? Today I noticed that the gasket seal surrounding the refrigerator door has a bit of a gap along the lower quarter of the door. The photo below shows my refrigerator door - notice how the white gasket is flush with the refrigerator from the top down to about six inches below the bottom of the door handle, but then there is a gap that starts to grow and runs down to the end of the door. How would I go about fixing this gap? Do I need to buy a new strip of the door gasket and replace the existing one? <Q> Measure the space between the door and refrigerator on all sides/corners to see if something is out of alignment. <S> One of the steps in replacing most gaskets is to fix the alignment of the door before tightening the screws. <S> See these instructions on the steps to replace a gasket to get a better idea of the steps involved. <A> My gap was similar but bigger. <S> I realigned the fridge to lean back vs level, took the beer out of the door, and applied vaseline to the gasket. <S> Much improved. <A> My first attempt was my gf's blow dryer. <S> I let it get good and hot so it would be plyable. <S> Helped but not 100%. <S> So I grabbed some EZ squeeze caulking I had lying around and applied a thin layer around the area where the gap was. <S> Seems to be holding for now. <S> If it doesn't last I'll do my best to update this.
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To fix the alignment, you would loosen the gasket screws, push or pull the top and bottom corners of the door until it's properly aligned, and retighten the gasket screws.
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Why is my brand new PEX clear tubing turning green near the water heater? I just moved into my house with brand new PEX (uponor) plumbing. I used clear for the hot and cold instead of red and blue, because I bought everything myself and I thought it would prevent wasting too much. I installed the PEX tubing myself after buying a new Milwaukee tool. This was my first PEX DIY project, but I have a fair bit of experience with lots of remodeling trades. Anyway, we have been using the plumbing for about 6 weeks. I just noticed that the hot water tubing right near the water heater (commonly abbreviated as HWH) now has a green hue for about 12-24" past the heater. The water itself is not stinky or green - although I do notice a slightly different smell than with my old copper plumbing. There is about 3 feet of SS flex and copper between the water heater and the PEX. Our County inspector approved everything. The water heater is electric and it is about 5 years old, purchased from someone on craigslist. The water heater was empty when I moved it into the house, but I didn't try to clean it with anything. So, what is causing the PEX tubing to turn green? Should I make the water heater hotter? I don't think it is above 120F, but I haven't measured it. Should I figure out how to inject bleach into the system every once in a while? Edit: added picture. It turned out better than I expected. <Q> I am a professional plumber and I have been using PEX tubing for 20 years <S> and I am also manufacturer-certified to do so. <S> The only time I've ever seen this green color in PEX tubing it was algae. <S> The pipe was a cold water supply line that was wrapped with heat tape and pipe insulation, and run above ground underneath my camper. <S> When I removed the pipe it had algae growth along its whole length. <S> However, the algae will not stick to the pipe. <S> When you kill it, it will just wash away out through your faucets; just make sure you remove your aerators in order not to clog them. <S> Shut off the water supply line to your water heater. <S> Drain <S> some water out of your water heater from the drain valve. <S> Disconnect the supply line from your water heater <S> , so you can pour your bleach in from there. <S> Reconnect your water heater and run hot water out all your faucets until you can smell the bleach. <S> After letting it sit for a sufficient amount of time, flush all the water out of your hot water pipes and water heater until no more bleach is detected. <S> This will kill your algae, but you may still have it inside your pipes. <S> You might need to tap on the pipe to knock it loose before flushing. <S> In my case I drained the pipe and the algae dried up and fell from the pipe. <S> Or you could remove and replace the affected area. <A> Translucent containers that hold water tend to grow algae. <S> This is because of the constant moisture and the light getting through... <S> an ideal environment for algae to grow. <S> Since there's nothing you can do about the moisture, I recommend using a non-translucent tubing (such as the red or blue) for your water lines. <A> Probably algae growth, as Shane says, however there's a much easier fix than replacing it: insulate it. <S> (which is something that you probably should've done anyways!) <A> Maybe this will help: http://www.mass.gov/dep/water/drinking/color.htm From the above link: Green Water <S> In cooler climates, the most common cause of green water is copper plumbing corrosion. <S> If this is happening, the water will usually have a bluish-green tint and/or will leave a bluish-green stain on porcelain if the water drips from a faucet. <S> Green water may also be present in homes with copper plumbing that is less than two years old. <S> The presence of copper can be confirmed through analysis. <S> The EPA has a copper fact sheet. <S> Green water can also be caused by dezincification of poor-quality bronze alloys found in valves, water pumps, and water pump parts. <S> This problem can occur in high-rise buildings and large industrial properties where the water is pumped to storage tanks. <S> The water may also be tested for zinc. <S> During warm weather, green water may be caused by green algae in water supplies served by reservoirs or rivers. <S> Algae are single-celled plants that readily grow in bodies of fresh water. <S> Algae are not a health threat and reservoirs can be managed and monitored to prevent algae from growing to the point were they discolor the water. <S> The water supplier through filtration may also remove algae. <A> It actually has to do with your brass fitting, these fittings are corrosive when attached to copper. <A> Are you on well water? <S> Have you had the pH of you <S> water tested – whether you are on well or city water? <S> Lower pH water is corrosive to copper pipes. <S> Seeing that you have part copper piping in your installation, the green you are seeing may be leaching from the copper pipes. <S> Hot water also allows the leaching to occur even more than cooler water. <S> This may explain why you are seeing it in the hot water tubing and not the other. <S> Also, use caution in pouring chlorine bleach into your PEX pipes. <S> This may weaken the pipes, same as exposure to sunlight. <S> Do your research before using bleach! <A> This happened because of build up in the hot water heater and hard water in the area. <S> Remember if they re-pipe your home and never replaced the heater, the old junk from the old pipes is still setting on the bottom of the water heater. <S> "replace heater if it's over 6 years old or do nice flush if it's under 6 years" <A> I'm a plumber and have encountered this on a few occasions. <S> Check the reservoir; it starts there and adds all the elements for the algae to thrive then be transported to you where, in areas it collects light and warmth to add to its growth. <S> Cover any pipes that are transparent to any degree of light. <S> Without light you limit its ability to continue growing. <S> Introduce a fine micron strainer that can be rinsed and reused, before it gets to the pressure regulator for the geyser. <S> This has worked for me.
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Copper corrosion can also be caused by your electrical system being grounded to your water pipes, especially if you have a mixture of pipe material (e.g., some copper and some galvanized steel.). I believe it is a combination of opportunities for algae to grow in your pipes.
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What is the best way to dissolve tape that won't peel off? Scotch tape? Duct tape? What about other types of tape (like the tape they put on supermarket labels?) <Q> I've have very good luck with GooGone . <A> I usually try a variety of approaches depending on what the glue is. <S> Most glues seem to be either water or oil based (mostly oil). <S> If the tape is on something that can take some heat, then I might either fill it with hot water from the tap, run hot water against the opposite side, heat it up with a hair dryer or just let it sit in the sun for a few minutes so that the glue will soften. <S> Then I peel off the tape, trying to pick up as much of the glue as I can. <S> I often use the sticky side of the tape to try to pick up any remaining pieces of glue because it seems to come out the cleanest when I don't have to resort to step 2. <S> Step 2 depends on whether the glue is oil or water based. <S> If it is oil base, either I give it a good rubbing with a light oil like furniture oil, tea tree oil or lavender oil or olive oil. <S> Once the glue is dissolved and removed by this step, I wipe the surface down with a warm soapy cloth. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Acetone usually works well to dissolve the adhesive. <S> You can find it with the other solvents in the paint department of your hardware store. <A> Just a few weeks ago I bought something called "Krud Kutter" from Home Depot. <S> It is amazing! <S> Smells lemony good and cleans anything - especially does well with sticker remnants. <S> Says biodegradable. <S> I have used it on carpet, walls, bamboo wood floors, marble counters... <S> no damage to any of that, but always be sure to test it out on a hidden section before using it. <S> I also bought something called "Motsenbocker's Lift Off" Stain Removal Kit, which I tried a few times as well and works nice. <S> It has 3 different formulas in a single kit. <S> Good luck!
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If the glue is water based (usually not gooey or tacky), then just cleaning up with some warm soapy water seems to work best.
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Are there any major differences between a smaller table band saw and a larger stand up band saw? I'm considering buying a small table sized 9" band saw because it's much cheaper than buying a full sized stand up band saw. Are there any major differences in terms of what kind of materials I can cut and how large of pieces I can cut? Are there any other major differences besides size and cost? <Q> From a "size - only" standpoint two critical dimensions of a bandsaw are the throat capacity and the maximum cutting height. <S> Throat capacity is the size of the opening between the blade and the frame. <S> You need your workpiece to be able to fit through this opening as you push it through the blade. <S> Max cutting height is the maximum amount of blade that can be exposed. <S> This will impact how many pieces you can stack. <S> Keep in mind you may not be able to fill the space, depending on the material. <S> Adjustable speed is nice if you intend to cut metal, as slowing the speed will increase blade life. <A> Are there any major differences in terms of what kind of materials I can cut and how large of pieces I can cut? <S> That's the primary difference of any saw. <S> The bigger the saw, typically the larger the substrate you can cut with it. <S> Other variables that affect the type of substrate you can cut would be if the saw has variable speed options, how easy it is to change the blade, and the overall size/power of the motor in it. <A> In a band saw, a larger blade basically gets you two things; a little more momentum, and more teeth. <S> More momentum is good because it means the blade is less likely to bind, and if you do encounter some difficulty it's not as hard on the motor. <S> More teeth means the band lasts longer and makes a better cut because the teeth stay sharper. <S> A bigger band saw will also have larger diameter guide wheels, which allows for a wider maximum guidestop setting. <S> If you're chopping a plank into foot-long sections, the larger band saw will be the better buy; you may not be able to do it with a portable saw. <A> Depends on the types of cuts you plan on doing. <S> If you are planning on resawing lumber, the more powerful motors in a floor standing bandsaw would be required. <S> If you plan on cutting 3/4 to 1" flat stock, motor strength is much less important than the throat depth, which will determine the maximum width of your workpiece.
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Larger, more expensive bandsaws will generally have better blade guides, a more powerful motor, more table and fence adjustments, and can hold wider range of blade widths.
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What humidity should I set my dehumidifier to? I just bought a 50 pint dehumidifier for my basement. What humidity level should I aim for? This time of year the outside humidity is very high (over 80%) and we do not have central air. Right now it is set to 55% and seems to be running constantly. Should we keep it running and try and get it even lower than 55%? <Q> 30-40% in winter. <S> Otherwise below 60% to keep mold away. <S> Or even below 50% to avoid dust mites. <S> You can also see this question: Humidity Levels . <A> I believe the answers above are a bit more realistic than others I've seen. <S> Remember if air outside is 60% RH and the temp is 80°F that would be equal to about 75% RH with with a basement temp of 60°F. <S> Keeping it around 55%-60% will be comfortable and obtainable with a decent dehumidifier. <A> Plus, in a basement, you want to keep things dry for the sake of the structure. <S> I'd let it run as much as it needs to run. <S> [1] http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_comfort#Relative_humidity <A> FYI - I had a musty smell in our 30ft x 40ft basement, (our 35 year old dehumidifier was no longer up to the task.) <S> I bought a new 45 pint dehumidifier. <S> It took away the musty smell just fine but was running all the time. <S> After a few days, I adjusted the humidity setting (from 42% factory setting) to 56% and now it runs only when needed. <S> Smell is gone and all is well. <A> I run mine at 60% during the summer. <S> I do not run it during the winter because dehumidifiers do not work well as temps below 60F. <S> Also, I always pipe my dehumidifiers into the plenum sump pumps so they are self-emptying. <A> 55% has been the magic number for me when the humidity is at <S> it's heaviest (with outside temp at about 80 degrees) <S> With my window air conditioner (8000 btu) and a couple of fans to keep the air circulating, it manages to cool my 1500 sq. <S> ft. open living area very well in about an hour of turning everything on. <S> It's not cold but comfortable. <A> Looking at the comments to the question, I believe even running the dehumidifier at a higher setting will have it running lots. <S> The amount of moisture traveling to your basement from the open upstairs windows will be substantial, and you will be effectively "dehumidifying the outdoors". <S> I would suggest looking into methods of limiting airflow between your upstairs and your basement. <S> That being said, I would suggest keeping your humidity below 60%, as you may see mold growth above that RH. <A> My suggestion keep your basement sealed, run humidifier 55-60 RH in humid summer & 60-65 RF when dryer/cooler. <S> No need to run in winter if temp around 45-65%temp. <A> After 19 years I finally went out and got as dehumidifier. <S> 70 pint frigidaire, runs in cool temps , down to 40 <S> * FI keep it at 55% RH right now, it runs for 10-15 minutes, off for 5 minutes, and them on again. <S> I am trying to seal up all the cracks and leaks in the basement. <S> I taped up the two sump pump covers, <S> I will see about putting a gasket on them too. <S> The moldy smell went away soon after turning it on
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Recommended humidity levels for human comfort is 30-60%[1].
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Shading windows from outside (awnings, shutters, etc) to keep house from overheating in summer The back of my house faces west, and during July and August, the sun hits it directly in the afternoon through evening. On a warm day, this can cause the house to heat up quite a bit, so I'm making it a project to minimize the heat. One thing I'm looking at is being able to shade the windows from the sun. My neighbor uses awnings, but I'm not a big fan of the designs I've seen. I'm also considering shutters (as I saw on all buildings during a recent trip to Italy), but I'm not sure I'll find anything that suits the house. I'm also considering some simple roll-down blinds, maybe even something that I only attach during the warmest days. My question is what are the design considerations I need to take into account for making sure I'm coming up with a solution that minimizes heat? Is anything that blocks/reflects the sun from the window enough? Are there other things to consider? [Postscript: I'm also using landscaping to cut down on the heat, but it's going to take a while for some of the trees to grow into effective blocks.] Update : Just came across this article , which doesn't go into a lot of depth, but does give a good overview of several options. <Q> Down here in Texas, solar screens are the thing to have. <S> They're simply black mesh panels that install over the outside of the entire window, and in addition to being basic bug and safety screens, they reduce the amount of sunlight coming in to the window. <S> You can still see out very well, so unless this is a big all-glass window wall (in which case I'd use tinting film similar to car windows) <S> it's the thing to use. <S> Yes they're inside, but they still work. <S> Only problem is that you can't see through them. <A> Are Cellular Shades an option? <S> They are supposedly quite energy efficient, because they provide an insulating layer at the windows. <S> There are cordless ones that can be raised/lowered easily without binding, and there are "Transofrmations" ones that can be slid from translucent to opaque. <S> (Let in sun during the winter, or block light completely in the summer.) <S> http://lowes.levolor.com/products/cellular-shades/options.php <A> You could also do a type slatted awning or shade, either straight out from the building, or over the windows. <S> The idea is to (partly) shade the summer sun, but not the winter sun, but it takes some mathematics to get right. <S> You see these on office buildings.
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Insulating, light-blocking curtains are another way to reduce solar gain.
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What is the best way to fill a hole in a concrete basement floor? My basement floor has a hole cut where the water line enters the house. This hole is around 2ft square, and digging down a little I hit dirt and small roots. I'd like to seal this hole as I believe it provides an entry point for insects. In the picture above, you can see the water line coming in and leading to the meter. The tubing along the wall on the left is electric conduit, grounding the service panel. Note that the horizontal part of the water pipe is actually below the level of the nearby concrete floor, so a new floor in this area would have to be lower than the rest of the basement floor because I don't want to encase the pipe and valve in concrete. What's the best way to fill in that hole? A few specific concerns: Do I need to lay down a layer of gravel or something above the dirt? Would the new concrete need to be tied into the existing floor somehow? Is there a minimum clearance around the pipe that I should preserve? Are there any structural concerns digging or pouring concrete here? The foundation is fieldstone parged with mortar. The house was built in 1892 and I suspect this hole was cut when the water line was changed from lead to copper. <Q> Let's not over complicate this little project. <S> I have seen these open sump holes hundreds of times. <S> I am absolutely sure there are no structural issues here, how long has the house stood without concrete in the hole? <S> There was probably not a concrete floor when it was built and for many years after. <S> If you want to simply keep stuff out and hide the dirt then let's do it simple. <S> Dig out to about a total of 4 inches below your water pipe and valve. <S> Mix up a small bag of Sacrete concrete mix and fill the hole to about 1 inch under the pipe. <S> Float it smooth, you're done. <S> There is no need to get carried away with a special base etc. <S> The size and weight of the concrete patch is negligible as far as settling or shrinking is concerned. <S> Get the stuff and be done with it in an hour! <A> Below is based on what I would do in the UK. <S> Q. Do I need to lay down a layer of gravel or something above the dirt? <S> Excavate 13inches (325mm) below the finish level of the concrete patch you're putting in. <S> Compact 6inches (125mm) of sub-base (crushed rock) into the bottom of the excavation. <S> Spread <S> a 1inch (25mm) thick layer of soft building sand on top of the sub-base. <S> Compact and level. <S> Cut a piece of "Visqueen" Damp Proof Membrane (1200 gauge / 300mu) <S> 6inches <S> (150mm) bigger all around than the size of the hole. <S> Lay the Damp Proof Membrane on top of the building sand and turn up the edges (3inches / 75mm), against the sides of the existing concrete. <S> If I had a little bit of ¼inch or ⅜inch ( <S> 6mm or 8mm) <S> re-bar fabric (mesh) <S> handy I would place it in the middle of the concrete. <S> Though in your particular situation it really isn't needed. <S> Q. <S> Would the new concrete need to be tied into the existing floor somehow? <S> No, see my above points. <S> Plus, the slab isn't really a structural slab. <S> Yes, it's a ground bearing slab, but in a domestic situation, therefore load really is too much of a concern, especially in your particular situation. <S> Therefore there really is no need to tie-in the new concrete patch with the existing. <S> Q. Is there a minimum clearance around the pipe that I should preserve? <S> Apart from a practical point of view, I have nothing else to base the following on: I would leave a minimum clearance of 2inches (50mm), a little more if it proves practical. <S> Q. Are there any structural concerns digging or pouring concrete here? <S> The foundation is fieldstone parged with mortar. <S> No, see my above points. <S> Plus, you really aren't putting any load on the existing foundation in your particular case. <A> Paint it the same color as the concrete.
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On top of the Damp Proof Membrane pour a 6inch (150mm) thick concrete slab. Personaly, I would just make a wood cap over the hole so it can be removed and replaced at will.
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Why will my pilot light on the gas water heater not stay lit for more than 15 minutes? The pilot light went out on my gas water heater. I followed the instructions and had it lit three times now for about 15 minutes each time but it wont stay lit. Not sure what to do at this point? <Q> It could be that the Thermocouple has failed or is failing. <S> This would cause the system to think there is no flame present, and shut off the gas supply for safety (so it doesn't fill the house with gas). <S> If you don't feel comfortable working on the heater; or you don't have the knowledge and/or tools to do so, call a trained professional to come take a look. <A> Several possibilities: <S> There's a thermal shutoff that automatically stops the gas if the pilot light doesn't heat it up. <S> This prevents you from leaking unburned gas into the home, which would be very bad. <S> Check that the probe is in contact with the pilot flame. <S> The fact that it stays on for 15 minutes makes me think this may not be the issue, but depending on the model, there may be a delay after lighting the pilot before this activates. <S> The next concern is a lack of ventilation. <S> Make sure fresh air can get to the water heater. <S> Get out the vacuum and cleanup all those cobwebs and flammable dust balls. <S> The location of the water heater should have a fresh air supply, either with a louvered door or a vent line that goes outside. <S> Make sure these are open. <S> Related to a lack of ventilation is over-ventilation, or a draft that is blowing out the light. <S> Make sure the shields are in place on the heater and that the HVAC doesn't have anything blowing directly on the hot water heater. <S> The last thing I can think of is a lack of gas coming into the line. <S> This could be from a valve not being all the way open. <S> There should be a small bit of pipe leading to a dead end cap pointed down somewhere after the shutoff. <S> I suppose it's possible for this to fill up, but have never seen it myself. <S> Whether shutting off the gas, opening this up and allowing any moisture to drain is a DIY job, I don't know, maybe someone else will comment. <A> I currently had this issue with my Whirlpool water heater. <S> It was under warranty <S> so I called and they directed me to hotwater101.com. <S> It required removing the control valve (the front piece where you set temperature light it, etc.) <S> It wasn't too bad to replace, but did take about 2-3 hours. <S> You need to drain the water heater, turn off gas, etc. <S> If it's not under warranty the part ran about $70 at Lowes. <S> Since mine was still under warranty Whirlpool paid for it. <S> So that's something you'll want to check in to. <S> They have a video and pdf on the site on how to replace it. <S> If yours isn't whirlpool I'm not sure how different it will be. <S> Mine has worked great since I replaced it. <S> Hope I have helped. <S> (I should mention that they thought it was my thermocouple at first, but since it did light and would stay lit for half an hour that rules that out.) <S> Replacing Gas Valve Video <S> Replacing Gas Valve PDF <A> The sealed units have a heat link underneath the gas burner. <S> When the vents get clogged by dust and dirt, the combustion chamber overheats and the heat link melts. <S> Beneath the heat link is a spring clip which holds down a metal rod. <S> What you will see when you take out the burner is a loose spring clip because it popped out when the link melted. <S> This heat link simply holds down a metal rod that springs up and cuts off the intake air. <S> Without intake air, your unit may light after a while but will not stay lit and will not relight until a little fresh air leaks in. <S> To replace the link you have to contact the manufacturer who will send you one for free only one time. <S> You need to shove the rod back down and slip the new heat link into the slots on each side which hold it in. <S> You also need to clean the air intakes on both sides of the hot water tank by using a vacuum cleaner and/or compressed air. <S> Then I suggest periodically repeating the cleaning process. <S> I found a three minute video on Youtube that showed this clearly. <A> The sealed water heaters DO need air circulation. <S> At the bottom of water heater there is a black flitter that goes around the bottom. <S> It needs to be cleaned yearly as well as under the water heater. <S> The flame arrerster under the burner needs to be cleaned also. <S> This is how these unit get air. <S> The arrestor an the area underneath the water heater is the path the air takes. <S> This needs cleaning with shop vac yearly. <S> If the burner area was completely seal off from getting air, you would never get it to light. <S> Three things are needed to make fire - Ignition source - Fuel - Oxygen You should never remove the glass window or any others parts off the water heater. <S> Carbon monoxide is vented out of the area and altering the air flow can result in carbon monoxide poisoning and death. <S> Carbon monoxide is deadly and odorless. <A> I've read everything online about these heaters and the vids on YouTube. <S> My theory isn't that its the thermocouple or just lack of air going in,its that these sealed water heaters don't let air OUT of the pilot light area. <S> Pressure builds up when the burner kicks in with a small blast- <S> blows out the pilot. <S> If you remove that glass window..air can escape...the heater works fine. <S> Just use some wire screen instead of glass to cover and it also keeps the pilot light from getting too large an air intake.. <S> so its Goldilocks..just enough air in,and enough going out. <S> Of course,this is all at your own risk,etc. <S> But,c'mon water heaters worked like that for decades,and nobody complained.
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It could also be from a condensation build up in the line. The problem turned out to be the gas control valve.
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Is there a technique to make a shower mirror fog-free? We want to install a permanent mirror in a new shower, but hope to find a permanent way to prevent it from fogging up. I have seen gooseneck mirrors that hook up to the showerhead itself so as to run hot water behind the mirror, which supposedly prevents fogging, but I'm wondering if there's a way to do a permanent installation. I'm imagining maybe building in a mirror to the wall of the shower and somehow running the hot water pipes behind it. Would that work? Have you ever seen anything like this? Or is there a better way to get a fog-free mirror experience in the shower? <Q> Heating cable manufacturers even offer some special kits for that - like this one from DEVI . <A> Dentists use anti-fogging solution like this or this . <S> I know a guy who uses <S> Rain-X Interior <S> Glass Anti-Fog on his car mirrors. <S> Would probably work inside a shower, too. <A> For the truly DIY solution, you can clean the mirror with soapy water. <S> The layer of soap helps reduce the fog. <S> It also tends to be the nearest cleaner when you're in the shower. <A> A good ventilation fan, to remove the steam is the first step. <S> Then you need a heated mirror, or try to putting a floor heating mat behind the mirror. <S> If the mirror is warmer then the tiles then most condensation will form on the tiles rather then mirror. <A> I purchased a mirror that has a water reservoir in the back. <S> You fill it with hot water when you start your shower and it will never fog. <S> I've been using it for a few years <S> and I love it. <A> I've learned a little trick to this: <S> Water vapor only condenses on colder surfaces so holding the mirror under the hot shower until it has warmed up will make it no longer fog up. <A> It's not a permanent solution, but an easy solution is to get yourself a facial scrub that has glycerin in it. <S> (A lot of them do. <S> Get one that's a gel, not a cream.) <S> Take a little dab of that and rub it on the mirror, and it'll stay fog-free for the duration of your shower. <S> Bonus: <S> Maybe it'll help encourage you to use a proper facial scrub rather than just using regular soap. <S> :) <S> As someone else said above, though, spit does also work, though of course is a bit grosser. <A> Low voltage plastic mats which can be installed behind mirror. <S> No danger of electrocution. <S> They can also be used under any flooring. <A> Spray some WD-40 on the mirror, then wipe it off. <A> Just spit on your mirror and smear it all over it every time before you get out of the shower. <S> I tried all the above a long time ago and did the spit as an experiment and it worked! <S> When you pick up your mirror to use it just give it a rinse under the water and no fog the entire use. <S> Promise. <A> Toothpaste; not one with baking soda though. <S> It works on diving masks too! <A> Okay, probably way too late now... <S> And maybe too complex, <S> but... <S> Run the hot water supply through some copper pipe and snake it back and forth behind the mirror which is thermally connected to the pipe, with something. <S> I haven't worked that out yet. <A> Use toothpaste or shaving cream. <S> Wipe it on, then wipe it off. <S> The mirror will not fog up after treatment for at least several showers. <S> Tooth paste seems to last longer than shaving cream, but it is harder to wipe off. <S> Also, don't use abrasive (usually white) toothpaste for this... use the gel kind. <S> Put the toothpaste or shaving cream on the mirror when it is dry (not humid). <S> wipe it off with a dry cloth or towel. <S> Don't rinse it off with water. <S> If used before showering, then the mirror will be warm which will prevent condensation.
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Yes, install heating cable behind the mirror - it will heat the mirror and water will not condense on the mirror. And one other solution is to use a hair dryer before or after fogging. I'm unaware of any permanent solutions, but there are quick fixes available in the auto and dental industry.
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How can I improve the wiring under the sink for a garbage disposal? My vegetable sprayer line broke yesterday, which led me underneath my sink. It wasn't until I was kneeling in a large puddle of water with the line draining on me and the floor that I realized how bad the wiring was for my garbage disposal: This obviously needs to be addressed. My question is which of the following approaches will solve my problem and won't kill the next tenant? Cover the J-box with a plate that has a hole and let the romex come through Wire in an outlet (half-hot) and convert the romex to a 3-prong plug Wire in a GFCI outlet (half-hot) and convert the romex to a 3-prong plug Something else? Completed project: <Q> The answer to your question depends completely on whether this node in the circuit is GFCI-protected. <S> GFCI protection is an absolute must for your disposer; it's a high-amperage electric motor hooked up to your kitchen drain. <S> Since this J-box doesn't have a standard 3-prong outlet, you'll need to find another outlet on the same circuit; look for a countertop outlet nearby. <S> Plug in an outlet tester (like the one below, available for $5-10 from your local big-box home improvement store), turn on the disposer, and hit the black button on the tester to short hot to ground, inducing a "ground fault". <S> If not, you definitely need to rewire this J-box with a GFCI outlet. <S> Even if the disposer is GFCI protected, you have other problems. <S> The outlet is in a "wet" place; you hope that the under-sink area never leaks, but there is always, always, a plumbing emergency at the kitchen sink at some point. <S> To avoid a continuous ground fault through contact with standing water in the J-box (which would prevent you from resetting the GFCI until the whole area dried out), you should seal this area as best you can. <S> A little adhesive spray foam to fill the gap between the wall and the back of the cabinet, followed by a layer of silicone adhesive caulk to waterproof the spray foam (people think spray foam is waterproof, but it really isn't), and a child-resistant outlet and plate with a rubber or neoprene gasket (and/or another dab of silicone) should keep the water out in any situation less than a full flood. <A> If you don't have the GFCI tester that KeithS mentioned, they are cheap and good to have. <S> But until then, just hit the test button on the GFCI outlet in the kitchen and see what turns off. <S> As far as wiring coming straight out of the box like that, I suspect it's against code. <S> Every wire should go through a knockout in the back of the outlet in a secure way, either using the plastic tabs or a securely screwed knockout clamp: <S> With the current setup, there's a risk of pulling on the wires and loosening the connection. <S> Even putting a blank plate with the wire coming through doesn't secure the cable and connections. <S> But as the fellow DIYers below point out, you can get a box cover with a knockout and use that to clamp the wire in (and also shield it from some water or physical contact): <A> Pretty good advice so far. <S> If it were a new install , then it would not be "J" boxed under the sink, but direct to the switch and GFI protected. <S> But with the situation you have now, unless you want to fish wires up the wall to the switch, let's make it safe . <S> Install a tamper proof GFI receptacle into the box as pictured and install a gasketed cover. <S> Install a 3 prong plug to the cord from the disposal. <S> It should be a 3 wire cord if made or installed in the last 20 years. <S> You can also find plugs with a rubber bushing that will fit snug around the existing cord. <S> Even if the circuit is already GFI protected, a second GFI at the point of power will not hurt, and give you more protection in a future geyser blast! <S> All this is assuming that the feed romex is actually a true 3 wire circuit, hot, neutral, ground.
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If it is not 3 wire, open the hatch on the disposer and install a new 3 wire piece of SO or SJTO cord with a molded plug already attached. If the disposer has GFCI protection, it will cut out, and you're golden as far as circuit safety.
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What's the best way to label a double gang box with two circuits I'm installing some lights in my basement, and will be replacing the single gang box in the hall (currently only for hall light) with a double gang box. The idea is to accommodate the hall light switch and the basement light switch in the same box, but I want to inform anybody who comes after that they will have to turn off two breakers to safely work in the box. What's the best way to label the box, so people know there are two circuits in the box? <Q> Put a divider between the two sides of the box: <S> Note: <S> Make sure the divider you pick will fit your gang box. <S> I've picked up dividers that don't before. <A> I write the circuit number(s) on the back of the cover plate any time I open one up. <S> Our house (built ~1979, CT) has numerous places where multiple circuits are in the same multi-gang box. <A> You can wrap each hot wire in red tape leaving a 1 or 2 inch tail of tape stuck together and write the circuit breaker # number on it. <S> IE: <S> CB#4/ CB#9. <S> Technically, you're not supposed to have two breakers represented in the same box, but I bet it is old wiring, so my "Common Sense" Code applies in this case.
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Then simply label each side of the gang box as belonging to the appropriate circuit.
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What is an alternative to a vacuum cleaner for cleaning carpets? There are reasons we are not interested in a vacuum cleaner at the moment. I'm sure the same applies for other people. Is there an alternative that can get rid of dirt as well as pick up bigger particles? <Q> Use a carpet sweeper . <S> Bissell sells several models of mechanical manual sweepers -- an invention that's been around in some form since the 1880s. <S> They work, but only to an extent. <A> In the "olden days" before there were vacuum cleaners you either swept (which still works to an extent -- tough bristles, short quick strokes are key) or took the carpet up and beat the dust and dirt out with a carpet <S> beater (which also works, as long as your carpet isn't fitted). <S> Alternatively, there are machines that spray water and shampoo into the carpet and suck up the dirty water -- but these probably come under the heading of a "vacuum cleaner," and so aren't appropriate in your case. <S> Also, they're not very useful for picking up bigger particles. <S> Beyond those options -- and keeping your carpet clean in the first place <S> ( Martha Stewart suggests lots of doormats) -- I don't think that there's another effective way of getting your carpet clean. <A> Lint rollers work on clothes and hard surfaces, and certain products also work on carpets. <S> Consider, for instance, something like this large sticky-tape roller , called the Roll-O-Vac. <S> For a thorough carpet clean, you'll have to use a plug-in machine or call in the pros. <A> The purpose of carpet is two-fold. <S> First, to make a nice, cushy surface for your delicate feet to tread upon. <S> Second, as an insulating barrier from the extreme expressions of Maw Nature. <S> The side-effect of carpet is a trap for disease, dead skin and all, plus an emitter of chemical emissions – a byproduct of materials used in the construction. <S> The only logical resolution – to the chagrin of carpet manufacturers, is to rip it all out, insulate under the flooring and buy one of those wood floor sweeper-dusters as seen on TV. <S> Hold out for the “wait <S> , there is more” advertisements, best bang for the buck. <S> ** ===== EDIT ===== <S> ** <S> As zero is a number, <S> “you can’t” equally applies to “ you cannot clean carpet without a vacuum.” <S> If you’ve never removed (ripped up and disposed of) carpet and/or padding in a regularly vacuumed environment, <S> you are not qualified to answer, and especially not qualified to down-vote!! <S> If you have removed carpet then you know, without a doubt, a vacuum of some type is essential to the maintaining a clean and healthy carpeted environment. <S> In the below diagram, please note the accumulation of dirt between the layers of the carpet, the padding and the flooring. <S> These particles of dust <S> ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dust ) dead skin ( http://www.thenakedscientists.com/HTML/questions/question/1643/ ) and itsy bitsy creatures such as dust mites ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/House_dust_mite ) are just some of the components of the yucky stuff labeled “filth and dirt” in the cheap artwork attached to this post. <S> The OP’s question is <S> “There are reasons we are not interested in a vacuum cleaner at the moment. <S> I'm sure the same applies for other people. <S> Is there an alternative that can get rid of dirt as well as pick up bigger particles?” <S> I propose the following answer : “no.” <A> Buy carpet squares. <S> Then take carpet squares outside and beat them. <S> Then throw them in the wash machine. <S> Don't know how doable for you this is <S> (but I think I am the only person to actually answer the question fully). <S> I have seen people get out stains in carpet squares through washing <S> so why not the whole floor...
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For deep cleaning you'll have to use a vacuum or roll up your carpet and take it in to the pros.
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When to use holes instead of side terminals to wire an outlet This question comes from Shirlock's comment on this GFCI wiring question . When and why should you use the holes on the back of an outlet rather than the side terminals? I always assumed the holes on the back were only for lazy electricians and people that wanted to make my life miserable, especially when there isn't much slack wire and you want to replace an outlet. Are there other reasons, and does the NEC have any requirements on one vs the other? <Q> Shirlock has a great answer; I just wanted to point out something. <S> There are two major different designs for back-wiring, "push-in" and "side-clamp". <S> Push-in wiring, sometimes branded "QuickWire", uses holes in the plastic casing, underneath which are sharp spring-loaded cleats that catch and hold the wire when you put it in. <S> To remove them, you take a jeweler's screwdriver or a small pick or probe and push into a square tab nearby, which pushes the cleat away allowing you to withdraw the wire. <S> Personally, I hate these things with a passion and prefer to side-wire. <S> They only work with one gauge of wire (either 12 or 14AWG depending on the type of switch or outlet; do YOU know which one was used in every single J-box in your home?), and getting the wire back out without destroying the wire or the switch is a crap shoot. <S> The push-release mechanism is as likely to crumple and lock the wire in as to release it, IME. <S> Side-clamp wiring, sometimes branded "EZ-Wire", uses a plate between the side-wiring screw and the switch body. <S> You loosen the screw, separate the plate from the switch body (easiest to let gravity do the work; turn it plate-down and shake), insert the wire stripped to the proper length, then tighten down the side screw. <S> It works a lot like side-wiring, except you don't have to curl the wire around the screw. <S> They're pretty easy to use and are VERY secure, and so I like these a lot better than the push-in wiring setups. <S> I did that a few times while repairing the electrical in my new home; the switch or plug worked fine hanging loose, but when I closed it up it stopped working. <S> The fail-safe is to give the switch body a wrap of electrical tape, giving it an insulating layer between the switch and anything else in the box (and the box itself; most are plastic <S> but I found a couple conductive switch/outlet J-boxes in my home). <A> There are no NEC guides, UL and CSA rules on or approves devices. <S> You will also notice because the device itself is very wide, there is little barrier space around the screws. <S> Most manufacturers recommend using the strip gage and back wiring holes. <S> Just be sure to tip the device so the grab plates open before inserting the wires. <S> Every electrician I know uses the back connections on GFI's and side wires regular receptacles. <S> Also notice that there are holes for 4 pairs of wires, two pairs for line side and two pairs for load side. <S> Again, this saves room in the box so fewer wirenuts and splices need to be used. <A> I have had multiple experiences that have had the push-in lose their connection, and the solution was to change it to use the side screws. <S> For that reason I recommend always using the screws. <A> There is never a good time to use push in wiring of the receptacle. <S> Does not hold tight especially after the outlet has seen a little bit of use. <S> Wires loosen get hot and burn out and if you don't find in time it will burn your house down!
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The only possible problem is, with a lot of exposed metal on the side of the switch body, you have to be certain you don't short out the switch to the bare metal ground wire, or the next switch or outlet over (very easy with the wider 20A switches and GFCI outlets). The reason I commented on using back wiring on GFI's, is that if you look carefully inside the holes, you will see a barbed plate that compresses on the wire when the side screw is tightened.
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What is this pipe thread compound on my LP regulator fitting? I'm replacing a faulty regulator on my gas grill. When removing the old regulator, I noticed there appears to be some sort of compound on the threads. Here is a picture of the threads with the old regulator still partially attached: And here is a picture of the threads without the old regulator attached: Questions: What is that substance, and where can I get it? Is it required in order to protect against LP leaks? Are there any tricks or gotchas to know about when applying it? <Q> However, the fitting in your picture is a flared fitting. <S> PTFE (Teflon) tape/pipe dope is only necessary on pipe thread fittings. <S> This is because pipe threads are tapered - as you tighten the fitting, the threads bind together and deform slightly to create a seal. <S> The pipe tape/dope helps lubricate the threads and make a better seal. <S> With a flared fitting like your photo shows, the flare at the bottom seats in a mating flare inside the female fitting. <S> The threads are only there to draw the two together. <S> Using tape on the flare fitting may not cause any problems, but I would not take the chance, especially with gas. <S> If any tape gets under the flare or prevents the nut from tightening down fully, you're going to have a leak. <A> Dangerous advice warning: <S> As pointed out in the comments and other answers, this is the improper solution for a flared gas fitting. <S> Just got back from the hardware store with this: <S> It's apparently similar to Teflon tape that you would use on a water fitting, but made specifically for gas. <S> There is also a compound available, but I chose to use the tape because I was told that the compound can be a bit messy. <A> Use of thread seal tape does not work on the fittings that screw directly into an aluminum propane regulator. <S> I don't know if the changes in seasonal temperature cause the aluminum to contract and expand (or something else) but six months later the fittings will be loose and leaking. <S> I suggest using a hardening compound.
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The tape you purchased is the correct tape for gas fittings.
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Is it normal for the A/C to be dripping from top pvc that's coming from attic? I thought I remember being told that water should drip (condensation) from the bottom pvc that comes out of the house but it should never drip from the top pvc. I thought he told me that if it dripped from the top it meant the "pan" was full and needed to be emptied. I was told recently that it's normal for them to both drip some because of the humidity right now. I'm not sure which answer is correct and if there is something I need to do about it now. <Q> The overflow drain is in a visible place <S> so you know that the main drain isn't working and you can fix it. <S> In fact I had this very problem a few weeks ago. <S> If you remember being told it should never drip from the upper drain, it sounds to me like it could be a secondary overflow drain. <S> In that case it would be worth getting it checked out. <A> if by "top" PVC <S> you mean the PVC tube coming out of your house that corresponds to your upstairs AC unit, then yes, this is normal. <S> all air conditioners pull water out of the air as they cool, and that water has to go somewhere. <S> however, there is no definite answer we can give you because there are so many ways the condensate drain could be configured. <S> in your old house, you might have had 2 condensate drains on one air conditioner. <S> the second drain could have been installed so that if the pan was about to overflow, it went down the second drain instead. <S> so the second drain serves as a signal that the first one is clogged. <S> in short, the only way to be sure is to have someone qualified trace the drain lines and figure out how these units are configured. <A> I had the same problem -- lots of water coming out if the PVC that runs to the outside of the house. <S> My main AC drain was clogged. <S> My AC guy blew it out with compressed air. <S> Research this before doing it yourself though. <S> Now I just need to figure out how to relocate or hide the ugly PVC that runs along the patio... <A> No. <S> It's not good. <S> Go in the attic first and check the overflow pan. <S> Mine was full. <S> Nice tip for ya. <S> I used a diaper to absorb all that water.but after that you may want to get it checked out for sure.
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When the forced air unit is in the attic sometimes the condensation is drained into a normal interior drain and a second, outside drain is used for overflow.
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GFCI buzzing on same circuit as dimmer Ok, is please bear with a little explanation: My girlfriend had the master bath in her condo remodeled, and asked her contractor to install a new (GFCI) outlet. He apparently pulled it from the switch for the vanity light fixture. At the same time, he installed a dimmer switch for that same vanity light. The good news is there is no buzzing from the light fixture at all. The bad news is that the new outlet is buzzing and crackling like mad. These people told her there was nothing that could be done, and that it wouldn't hurt anything, it was because the dimmer and the GFCI amounted to two transformers on one circuit. This is a crock, but I wasn't around when the work was done. At this point I am wondering if anything can be done without pulling out the new sheetrock. The GFCI outlet works fine, it tests and resets normally, and you can use it nomally as well. It just sounds like an angry beehive. I was considering a lamp debuzzing coil, but my only experience with one of those, it made as much noise at this outlet is. Any suggestions? <Q> The trouble shooting procedure would be to turn off the power to the bathroom, unscrew the GFI from the box, pull it out a bit and remove the "load" side wires which should go to the dimmer and check that "line" screws are tight. <S> Turn the power back on, if the dimmer is on the load side then the light with dimmer should be inoperative. <S> Does the sound go away? <S> If it doesn't and the buzz remains, the GFI is probably defective. <S> Now turn the power back off, put the load wires back on and test again. <S> If neither of these subtitution tests stop the problem, call a different electrician. <S> Trust me, <S> a buzz from a GFI or a dimmer is not a normal situation and could be a potentially dangerous situation. <S> Feel free to ask follow up questions if any of this doesn't make sense to you. <A> I noticed several kitchen outlet GFIs <S> all buzzing slightly yesterday. <S> They buzzed both while ready and while tripped. <S> I didn't check the wiring but they are all about one year old, installed by an electrician. <S> I pulled one out, and it was cool to the touch. <S> I think the incoming line voltage may have varied and the GFIs buzzed when the voltage was a little low. <A> Checking the wiring is one of the first things to do. <S> Also, if you are sharing the load posts for future wiring (either to another GFCI or by chance a future load that is not supposed to be protected (old code)) make sure there is nothing plugged in that could cause feedback. <S> TL/DR: I had a GFCI that started to quiet buzz several months after installing. <S> It was one of many GFCIs in my bath all independent (load and line wires shared load posts). <S> My load posts were unused, however they were not screwed in and were sticking out. <S> As a result, when the 20amp 12g wire was pushed into the box I believe the ground wire was close to the load post. <S> I removed the receptacle and screwed the posts in, and reaffixed the sticker to the post, and ensured the ground and other wires were properly pushed into the back of the box. <S> The buzz is no longer present.
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If the buzz comes back then replace the dimmer or swap it for a regular switch. If you have the GFCI setup as a 'no equipment load' (the last load on the leg or additional loads are tied to the line side of the GFCI and not the load side) then make sure the load posts are not near any wiring in the box. This morning the buzzing had stopped! There was the original sticker on the load posts (hot and neutral) however the sticker came loose from the hot post. I have never encountered the situation of a buzzing GFI before. Sounds a bit fishy to me. Maybe one of my buddies can do an edit to make this a bit easier to follow.
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Connecting a P-trap to a female drain connector in the wall I am replacing a bathroom vanity and while I'm doing that, I'm also replacing the p-trap for the sink (mostly because I want one with a drain, but also because I have to raise the height a couple inches) . Right now, there is a 1 1/4" female drain connector sticking out of the wall (which takes 1 1/4" I.D. pipe). The old P-trap was made of metal: My intention was to use a standard 1 1/4" ABS P-trap, however, ABS is 1 1/4" O.D., and the drain connector takes 1 1/4" I.D. The edge of the connector is about 1/8" recessed from the drywall, which will make cutting that piece off and attaching a coupling fairly difficult, though may be possible. I don't want to actually open up the wall (as you can see, I'm already in the process of patching the messy hole someone made for this pipe). Anyone have any better suggestions? <Q> A 1 1/4" female FIP adapter worked perfectly. <S> As soon as I saw it, I was embarassed for not having thought of it earlier. <S> No reduction in pipe sizes, and 100% ABS parts. <A> I have made the mistake twice of demoing an old bathroom sink and throwing out the p-trap before the new sink and plumbing went in. <S> Both times I regretted it because when I went to put in the new p-trap, I found some sort of strange/different plumbing setup which required several trips to the hardware store (and me repeating to myself "why did I throw out the old p-trap!?!?"). <S> My recommendation is to use the old p-trap. <S> Take some rags and steel wool and clean it inside and out and you should be able to get it looking like new. <S> And then you can get a drain extension tube to raise the height up to your new sink fairly easily. <S> The only issue is that the distance from the wall of the old p-trap may not match your new sink. <S> In that case try using part of the old p-trap to attach to the drain in the wall (since you do not have any extra pipe to work with) and then use a coupling to attach your new p-trap to this steel pipe. <S> (Although not sure how easy it would be for you to find a coupling for you to attach to that steel pipe.) <A> Best way I've thought of so far is to use a drain tube extension coming out of the connector in the wall, then go into another female trap connector, then P-trap, and then finally female drain connector for the actual sink drain. <S> Biggest downside is the pipe will get narrower between the wall and the p-trap, since it's 1 1/4" OD. <S> On the upside, it'll be easy to take the p-trap off and clean it all out.
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I used some teflon tape, screwed the FIP adapter onto the adapter coming out of the wall, then just glued my 1 1/4" pipe directly into it. (And while you are at it use some rags to clean out the connector in the wall too since that looks pretty dirty too.)
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How was this subfloor cleaned? I'm replacing the floor in my bathroom, which was previously a vinyl sheet. Prior to that (and I think original to the house, built in early 70's) it was some peel and stick-type tiles, except they're very hard (they remind of me what would be sold as commercial tiles now). There were some tiles left under the old vanity, and since I'm replacing it with a differently-sized vanity, I figure I'll put the new floor underneath it as well, which means the subfloor has to be flat. After I scraped up the old tiles, the floor is all black, presumably from the adhesive in the tiles. The rest of the floor though, that was covered by the vinyl sheet, looks like it's had the adhesive cleaned off. How was this cleaned, and why is it all white now? The floor was cut exactly to the outline of the vanity, and from the old paint on the wall, it looks like prior to the vanity there was just a wall-mounted sink. I'm going to guess the vanity was installed, and then sometime later the vinyl flooring was installed, as otherwise I can't see how the tiles got cut to this pattern. I'm putting a floating vinyl plank tile floor in place, and this part will be underneath the vanity anyways (the new vanity is slightly bigger). Should I bother trying to clean this part as well, or just put the new floor over top? Update: I added a whole bunch of screws to reinforce the floor to the joists below, and help reduce some of the squeaking. In one spot, right along an edge of the plywood, the white stuff flaked off - so it seems rather than being 'cleaned', there's actually a really thin layer of something on top of the black adhesive. There's no noticeable difference between the height of the two sections. I've since laid the new floor on top, I didn't do anything extra to this subfloor. <Q> What kind of flooring are you putting down? <S> Just scrub it with the tsp and a scrub brush. <S> The TSP will probably take up the glue as well... but has a significant chance of eating your plywood in the process. <S> ;) <A> What you didn't mention was if there was any difference in the height of the two areas. <S> If there is not more than 1/16 inch difference, just scrape the transition best you can and lay the new floor. <S> If there is a real change between the white and black areas, then you have to consider a few options. <S> 1) scraping/sanding higher surface to match the rest of the room. <S> 2) use leveler compound to gradually ease the two heights 3) <S> Scrape the transition best <S> you can and add a new layer of subfloor ( 3/16 lauan or 1/4 " plywood) to bridge the problem area. <S> This will require some finish trim work or removal and re installation of existing trim and undercuts of vert door trim. <A> Turns out, it was not "cleaned", but there is a layer of something on top (maybe paint) that flakes off. <S> I guess it was there to prevent the newer vinyl on top from sticking to the mastic left from the old tiles. <S> If someone can answer more specifically, I'll mark their answer as correct.
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If there's any musty smell, you can clean the floor with trisodium phosphate (the real stuff, not "substitute") ... but don't soak it. If it's tile, I'd probably reinforce the floor a bit first with a new layer of t&g subfloor before putting the tile down... which solves your problem.
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How to prevent static electricity build up? I have an office desk with a computer on it. After sitting in front of my computer for some period, if I get up and touch metal, I always get a spark. In order to avoid surprises, I habitually touch metal whenever I get up now. How can I prevent this build up of static electricity? <Q> You can get anti-static mats that are used for electronics work, perhaps they would make a decent mouse pad. <S> They also have wrist straps, but those would be a pain to take on and off whenever you want to get up. <S> A more universal solution is to get a humidifier for the home. <S> The humidity helps remove any build up. <S> But don't turn it up too high since you don't want mildew or mold problems, and you don't want to create condensation issues in the windows. <S> Beyond that, review what materials you have separating you from a ground. <S> I'm currently on carpeting, with a plastic chair mat, on a chair with plastic wheels and a fabric seat. <S> In the winter time here, I'm a shock hazard. <S> I may just try one of those anti-static mats. <A> Sound like something is not grounded like either the desk itself or a lamp, etc. <S> that is on the desk. <S> Make sure all items are plugged into outlets with a ground and if you are using an adapter (three prong to two prong adapter) make sure that the ground screw is in use. <A> Happens to me all the time. <S> I keep a spray-bottle of diluted fabric softener close by to spray down seats and coats that cause most of my shocks. <S> I have heard that keeping dryer sheets in your pocket can help <S> but I have had limited success with that.
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Hopefully this is just a combination of the dry winter air with various materials in your environment. An added benefit is that my office space smells better after a couple of sprays from the bottle.
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How do I stop a bed frame from squeaking? I recently bought a second hand wooden bed frame. All is good except it squeaks quite a lot when I move around on it (ahem). Any advice on fixing the annoying squeak? EDIT :: photo of the joint <Q> I fixed my metal bedframe by putting leather patches between parts that are rubbing. <S> Wooden frame is a bit more tricky - not so easy to identify where the parts are rubbing, but this is the first initial step. <S> Basically, the noise comes from parts rubbing on each other. <S> If you can eliminate rubbing, or put something between the rubbing parts - that would reduce the noise. <A> Most times with anything wood, it is not the wood rubbing together that is squeaking, it is your nails, screws, bolts, or whatever holding it together <S> that are loose rubbing on the wood that squeak. <S> I would go around your bed frame and tighten everything. <S> If you find one that wont tighten you can use some wood glue in the hole to help with the squeaks(If you dont plan on taking it apart in the future :)) <A> Does the bed have slats? <S> I was ready to throw away a daybed for being incredibly noisy, but before I did, I replaced the fancy springy laminated-wood slats it used to have with cheap plain wooden slats. <S> The squeaks stopped immediately. <S> Turns out, the fancy slats were just a tad bit too big, and the ends were rubbing against the frame at the slightest provocation, producing the noise. <S> I'm still using the fancy slats in a different bed, where they work perfectly. <S> The point is, neither the bed nor the slats were at fault; the problem was with the combination. <A> We just solved the problem of creaky slats. <S> We cut up strips of those cheap egg crate bed toppers and wrapped it anywhere the wood slats meet the bed frame. <S> No more creaking during fun time! <A> Beeswax or paraffin. <S> Your local hardware store probably will have both as they're used for lubricating drawer slides on older joinery. <S> Knock the joint apart apply to where the wood rubs. <S> Lift the slats out and apply it there as well. <S> Beeswax is slightly sticky and will adhere to metal, so it will probably work on the hooks on the metal joint as well. <S> Tighten anything that's loose on the headboard and side rails afterwards <S> and it should all go away. <A> Whenever I lift wooden floorboards, I sprinkle simple talcum (baby) powder where the boards sit. <S> Ditto, although rather more difficult to get at the squeaky areas, wooden stairs. <S> Obviously it depends on whether you can access the point where wood meets wood - but that is the area to be "lubricated". <S> Unfortunately, soft woods tend to wear and then you need to start again. <A> Spray some WD40 on the metal parts (screws) just did this and it works a treat!
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I'd say check all the joints and see if you can tighten the bolts or add glue to moving parts.
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How do you stop the floor from squeaking? I have a home built in the 1940's. The main floor creaks a lot and more squeaking and creaks seem to spring up in new places all the time. Is there an easy way to stop the squeaking and creaking? I don't necessarily need to prevent future annoyances, but I would like to stop the loudest creaking now. The basement ceiling (bottom of main floor) is mostly exposed (if that helps). <Q> The main cause of wood floors squeaking is wood shrinkage around the nails. <S> Be absolutely sure to use screws that are long enough to grab the hardwood, but short enough not to stick through. <S> If you do not have hardwood floors then you'll have to decide among a few different techniques appropriate for specific floor coverings, ie. <S> carpet, tile, vinyl etc. <S> With carpet, for instance, there are special breakaway screws (such as these made by McFeely's ) that can be installed from above. <S> With tile or vinyl, the screw from under method is often the way to go. <A> I have used " <S> Counter-Snap" through vinyl and carpet, and it worked great. <S> All it takes is to locate the squeak, insert the patented “snap off” screw into the fixture, drill it down and let it snap off. <A> I just finished fixing squeaks in hardwood floors my 1950's house. <S> Most of the squeaks were caused by gaps between sub-floor and joists. <S> I just inserted wood shims in between ( I bought them in Home depot for 5 bucks). <S> Have somebody walk or jump on the area where the squeak is, and if you can see sub-floor movement, just stick shim in there. <S> Do not overpush them, because it will cause floor to raise too much. <S> Hope this helps.
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If you can localize the areas that are the worst, a common way to minimize squeaks is to drive screws up from the bottom through the subfloor into the hardwood.
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How do you remove paint and rust from outdoor chairs? I have some outdoor metal chairs that have a few rust spots and the paint is chipping in a number of places. I'm looking for the best way to clean off the rust and paint so I can repaint them. <Q> I would try a wire brush first. <S> Either a hand model or a rotary one that would fit into your power drill may do the trick. <S> You can also get small toothbrush size wire brushes to get into the small spots. <S> Good Luck <A> They make spray paint designed to go on "right over the rust". <S> A wire brush to get off any loose flaking paint and rust, then spray away. <S> Rustoleum is one brand, but basically if you go to the hardware store, find the paint area, then look around for shelves full of spray cans, you will hit the jackpot. <S> Read the label to be sure, but if the word Rust is in the name, generally you don't need to strip the old paint and you don't need to worry about rust that isn't forming large flakes and half falling off. <A> You could use a grinder with a heavy grit sandpaper to remove the paint and the rust. <S> If the rust is not that deep, you might be able to use a pressure washer with a high psi nossle. <S> That will remove the paint and loose rust spot very well.
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For the spots of rust that are too deep, you might be able to use a rustolium primer to paint on it first after the cleaning then paint it.
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What is the life expectancy of a washing machine motor? My washing machine is 6 years old. I found what I think is a good deal on a motor (about $50). I was just wondering if it would be a good investment to have a spare motor around. <Q> Motors don't break... <S> the brushes used to power the coils or the golden fingers used to get the power are for sure worn out and need replacing. <S> This can be a difficult task sometimes and these parts could cost $50, so by replacing the motor with an equivalent type you should expect the same life span based on the usage of the machine. <S> In this picture you can see the brush (inside the yellowish bracket) and the commutator (golden fingers) <S> it touches (here they are dirty - but in good condition) usually they would need to get cleaned on change of brush - <S> but if they are badly worn the motor could be rendered useless as you can see - they are not replaceable on this version. <S> A nice picture showing the complete design of a coil-motor. <S> The only things that break in here are the brushes/commutator and in rare cases <S> the coils themselves could burn if a high current flows past them. <S> The coils never burn from just running. <S> These motors can run forever as long as they have power to them (even if you physically stop the shaft and put 100% power they won't burn); it just generates strong electromagnetic fields. <A> According to Murphy and his annoying law, if you buy a motor, then you'll have a solenoid go out, or the controller behind the dial will go out. <S> I've found it's cheaper to wait for something to actually break, if you can't predict which component will break, and then decide if it's worth fixing or you're ready for a replacement. <A> Not really, over 5 decades of being the appliance repairman for family and friends, I've yet to see a washing machine motor give out. <S> All the machines I worked on used split-phase motors, not brushed universals. <S> Depending on start system, you might have a capacitor, but that's external to the motor. <S> You have to know the brand and if motor failure is a common problem with the particular make and model you own to know if it might pay off. <S> It's more likely that you'll be selling it for $25 in a yard sale after the washing machine has been replaced. <S> Transmissions, wigwag solenoids, belts, switches, timers and rusted out tubs seem to be the biggies.
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Unless you get a brown-out that burns the windings out, the motor lasts as long as the bearings.
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How can I improve traction on an outdoor plywood ramp? I've got a shed in a very shady area. There's a plywood ramp from the ground (grass/dirt) to the shed door. When it rains, the ramp gets slippery. It stays slippery for a long time afterward, as it doesn't dry very quickly due to the shade (from trees). I'm also concerned that the wood is starting to degrade from the moisture, although the shed itself seems fine. What can I do to improve the traction on the ramp, and maybe to also protect it a little better from the moisture? <Q> Tape Strip <S> Paint <S> They are ordered form easiest to hardest. <S> The strips will be the easiest because you just stick them on. <S> You will obviously stick them on the length where your tires will be going and not sideways (because that would be pointless). <S> The strips are more durable, but don't be deceived by the stick on ones once they are stuck.. <S> they are STUCK! <S> The best, but most work is painting the whole ramp. <S> Preparation. <S> Needs to be a dry day for sticking on or painting. <S> You need to clean the surface with paper towels - after you wiped the dirt away and the surface you want to stick <S> /paint is dry you will use more paper towels and cheap alcohol (methanol, spirits, etc) <S> - Using the alcohol cleans the surface and removes oil (so don't touch it after you wiped it). <S> Clean it almost like waxing (several times the same spot), this will guarantee your surface is dirt free and guarantees best adhesion for years and years of life. <S> The strips you can just put down - but you need some cordless drill or elbow grease to get those screws in. <S> Make sure they are flush (level with the strip) or you risk slashing your tires. <S> Here are some links http://www.vubasupplies.co.uk/anti-slip-surfaces.html http://www.anti-slip-paint.co.uk/ http://www.antislip.uk.com/antislip-decking-strip.html <A> Paint mixed with sand does not give enough roughness to the surface. <S> I took a fall 2 year ago on such a surface. <S> I am going to try the #10 non-skid Rustoleum paint. <A> Use truck bedliner it has some aggregate in it and it will seal the wood. <S> you could also add a little more aggregate to it for some more grip.
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I think the best method is to use an anti slip tape / strip / paint
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Which way to put a parquette floor according to windows? I have heard people saying that hardwood-floors should always be put alongside windows while others claim it should be put orthogonal to windows. Which one is the better way now? <Q> Hardwood floors should be installed orthogonal to the floor joists. <A> The only time I've heard advice about the orientation of the floor relative to the windows is that you want the seams of the floor to lie in the same direction as the predominant sunlight direction. <S> This is so that the sunlight shines ALONG the cracks instead of ACROSS them. <S> It's about making shadows disappear so that the overall appearance looks cleaner. <S> With that said, unless you are confident in the installation method providing sufficient strength you should install the floor orthogonal to the floor joists regardless of the orientation to the window. <A> The way I heard it, regardless of your floor joists, you should run the boards parallel to the longer dimension of the space, OR following the path through the main doorway into the space (orthogonal to the wall containing that doorway). <S> This makes the space look bigger because the lines cheat the length and make it look longer. <S> If that requires you to lay the boards parallel to the joists, then you must beef up the subfloor to at least 3/4" worth of plywood or OSB, and if that's done with more than one layer of plywood/OSB <S> then glue and screw the layers together <S> (make sure the screws go into the joists, pulling everything together into a nice solid substructure). <S> Lastly, NEVER lay hardwood directly on concrete. <S> ALWAYS lay down a layer of moisture barrier such as Tyvek (NOT a vapor barrier like 6mil plastic; there's a difference), then a plywood or OSB subfloor layer, then your hardwood (possibly with another layer of Tyvek between). <A> You should be able to run it however you want <S> granted that there was a layer of sturdy flooring placed ontop of the base flooring. <S> This adds an extra 3/4 of an inch, and if installed properly, should be layed breaking in the middle of the base flooring giving it more strength. <S> This will allow you to do what you want with your flooring. <S> Your staples for the hard wood will never reach the joist. <S> The sturdy floor will provide plenty to nail to. <S> If there is no strudy flooring then run it with the joist. <S> Be sure to lay your tar paper first before installing your hard wood flooring.
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You should by best practice run your flooring orthogonal to the floor joist.
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Why is my desk still tacky two weeks after finishing it with a polyurethane clear coat? I've recently built a standing desk out of sandply with a mahogany veneer. I have stained it, and two weeks ago added a polyurethane clear coat to protect the stain. However, after doing this, the desk is slightly tacky, and things don't slide very well on it. What can I do to reduce this "stickiness"? <Q> Even after it "dries" and is safe to work on, the solvents that keep the polymers in suspension aren't all gone; they'll continue to evaporate, and the clear coat will fully harden in time. <S> Check the can for your particular product; it should have a full cure time. <S> It could take up to a month if you laid on a really thick coat <S> and it's humid in your area. <S> Contrary to intuition, you can wax furniture that has a poly coat, much like you can wax a car that has a clearcoat. <S> Just pick up a can of Minwax, apply and buff, then let dry overnight. <S> This additional protective coating will be temporary, but hard, water-repellent and slick. <A> Poly has a naturally rubbery texture especially if you have a thick coat. <S> You might try sanding with high grit sandpaper to break it up. <A> Oil based polyurethane "dries" in two stages. <S> First the solvents evaporate leaving the resin behind. <S> This normally takes on the order of hours, but as others have mentioned it depends on the temperature, humidity, and thickness of the finish. <S> When the solvent has evaporated the finish will still be sticky. <S> The second stage of drying is cross-linking, where the molecules react in the presence of oxygen to bond with one another. <S> Cross-linking is what makes polyurethane finishes more durable than other finishes. <S> It takes a little longer, but it should not take weeks if the finish was good and properly mixed. <S> I don't think you have much to lose by trying to seal it with shellac, or even wax, but if that doesn't work then you are left with stripping or sanding back to the wood and refinishing - or put a sheet of glass over it. <S> Checklist for the refinishing <S> : Is the polyurethane compatible with earlier stain? <S> Are the temperature and humidity within the recommendations? <S> Is it a new can of finish? <S> (check the expiration date before you buy) <S> Stir the can of finish well. <S> Use multiple thin coats instead of one heavy coat.
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The poly simply needs to cure for a while. Alternately you can put another layer of finish on--something that dries to a hard coat, like shellac.
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Why does my new replacement pull-out kitchen faucet sprayer leak? I've had the same old sprayer attachment to my kitchen sink for a long time and last week I finally decided to get rid of it. The current sink hose (with sprayer detached) is shown here: And if you look closely, the hose from the faucet actually has a rubber tube inside it that is the water source: I went to Home Depot with the older sprayer in hand and found another sprayer of the same size that seems like it should fit. This is the new sprayer head. To attach the sprayer head, I bought some teflon tape and wrapped it around the threads on the new sprayer head and then simply screwed the sprayer head onto the existing hose. I hand-tightened it since the instructions said not to use a wrench. With everything connected, it seems like it should be fine: But when I turn on the faucet, I get water leaking out from somewhere in the vicinity of the bottom of the sprayer head. My understanding was that this should be dead simple. The old sprayer head didn't leak and I don't understand why a new one of the same size would leak. Am I missing a washer or something? Does the hose possibly need to be replaced? It's difficult to tell whether or not the leak is from the coupling between the sprayer & end of the hose or whether the hose endpoint itself is leaking. <Q> I've been known to follow hand tightening instructions in spirit but ignore them in practice. <S> After getting it fairly tight by hand, I give it another quarter turn or so with a wrench. <S> Use your best judgment, the goal is to get it water tight and secure without breaking the fragile parts. <S> Disclaimer: I've also been known to go toilet shopping after realizing my best judgment was a bit too aggressive. :) <A> So it seems like the coupling on the hose I had was loose and was letting water dribble out. <A> I had the same problem - leaking in exactly the same place. <S> It was only a slow drip, but enough to keep under the sink wet. <S> I Tried different sized washers... <S> It turned out to be a hairline crack running along/around the (ABS plastic) thread of the pull out <S> handle - so it was almost impossible to see! <S> However, when I gently put some sideways pressure across the connection, more water started coming out. <S> The water just come out of one side. <S> So I marked the spot, took the pull out head off and examined that spot closely and found the problem! <S> So in my case it was not the hose or the washer but <S> the pull out handle itself. <S> I am just searching google now, to see if you can buy a universal replacement handle made of brass or something stronger than plastic. <S> Our kitchen get well worked!
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Replacing the hose seems to have done the trick though it's possible a new rubber washer in the original coupling could've solved the problem too.
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Buying a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one: any considerations? I'm about to look for a programmable thermostat to replace a manual one. There are already a couple of good questions on thermostat replacement that make the task seem pretty straightforward for anyone who's done a bit of wiring (which I have done). The problem for me is this nagging doubt that, from a wiring perspective, all the thermostats I look at are not equivalent and only some would be able to work with the existing wiring. So, my question is, as I'm looking for a replacement thermostat, is there anything I need to take into consideration? Do I need to read the back of the box for any specific statistic? Do I need to check the existing wiring first (number of wires, voltages, etc.)? <Q> Heat pumps need the emergency heat switch, multi-stage high efficiency HVAC's have multiple fan settings, and electric baseboards may have 120/240v lines instead of the 24v wires. <S> For the lower end models, or for those seen in the far north or south, you may have a thermostat for only heating or cooling, but not both. <S> So before buying a thermostat, check the type and features on your existing HVAC system and limit your selection to the thermostats that support your system. <S> Then, see what features you want and how easy the system is to use. <S> Some systems have wifi, some have programs for all 7 days instead of 5/2 split, but if you have all 7 days, how easy is it to change the setting for every day? <A> 99% of thermostat installs won't have an issue. <S> If you have a strange heat pump configuration or a hybrid energy system, i would look into having a pro do it... <S> Otherwise, just make sure you look at he back of the existing thermostat and identify the letter that the wires are connected to before you remove them. <S> The colors of the wires don't always match up with what they are connected to. <A> Make sure the number of zones in the thermostat matches the number of zones in your home. <A> If your HVAC is relatively new, you shouldn't have a wiring issue, but you should double check to be safe. <S> Different systems having different wiring requirements, but the thermostats should be able to handle them. <S> I just installed a Wifi thermostat over the weekend and it could handle several wiring configurations. <S> For the Wifi, the only requirement I had to worry about was a C-wire to provide power to the thermostat. <S> Most systems don't have a C-wire hooked up. <S> Luckily my system had an extra wire that I was able to hook up to the C-terminal. <S> I've had 7 day and 2 day (weekday & weekend) <S> programmable. <S> I like the flexibility of the 7 day, but in reality, I use the same program for every day. <S> If the house was empty during the day all week, I would probably have 2 separate programs, one for weekday and one for weekend.
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You have to check that the thermostat is compatible with your HVAC system.
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What is the cheapest/easiest way to make bookshelves? I own a lot of books, and would love to display them on a bookshelf that covers an entire wall. I love the look of wood, but it is so expensive at the moment. I'm also a bit short of spare time, so I am pondering the cheapest and/or easiest way to make a large bookshelf. The compromise will be on appearance I guess. I've had a few ideas: Buy from IKEA (usually very cheap) and butcher it to fit, then paint it to obscure the cheap finish Salvage unpainted wood from local skips (dumpsters) - I've got lots of wood this way, but never long neat planks, or enough of the same size timber! Run two parallel wires (or metal rods) from wall to wall, and sit the books on that - would the covers get spoilt? Somehow make the shelf out of old books from a charity shop?! Wait for Freecycle to come good... By the way, I've bought a Kindle, which is going to reduce the problem in the future! <Q> Trimming out DIY-assembled shelves is a common way to go about it. <S> Ikea, of course, being a popular source for the DIY shelves to use. <S> The basic premise is buy your shelving system, assemble it, then use trim stock to finish it off to give it the look of a built-in or single unit. <A> I had a pastor who did missionary work in Africa for many years, and he really took minimalism to heart. <S> He simply used wooden planks over cinder blocks, stacked and spaced as needed. <S> It was surprisingly effective and I, personally, thought it looks really good in a "modern industrial" sort of way. <A> I like this idea of using plumbing pipe, though it doesn't solve the cost of the wood... <S> http://www.the-brick-house.com/2009/09/shelving-unit/ <A> You don't describe whether you want these to be built in, free standing, or what sort of environment. <S> One way to make a cheap, closet book shelf is to mount 2x2's to the sides and back of the closet and lay in a piece of OSB cut to fit. <S> Any 3 sided room segment will work with this idea. <S> The reason I suggest 3 sided is that the OSB is cheap and WILL sag if not supported. <S> While this is somewhat unattractive, you can scale it up by improving the wood you buy (knotty pine finished with Varethane can look fairly nice). <A> They're pretty inexpensive, too. <S> Trying to fill the entire wall will be difficult, but if you're able to accept "most of" the wall, then a row of, say, Billy bookcases are cheap and easy to put together. <S> Don't forget to get some shims to help them stand up straight and even. <S> (Ikea has a more expensive line with adjustable feet. <S> They're nicer, but the shims are cheap.) <A> Here's a cheap idea I found: http://www.shareable.net/blog/ikeas-cheapest-bookshelves <S> Basically, it involves getting shelf brackets (which can come as cheap as $2 for a pair) and a set of bed slats (the cheap pine ones, not the engineered springy kind!) from IKEA. <S> Screw the shelf brackets to the wall, put a pair of bed slats on each, and pile on the books.
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Ikea bookcases are a good answer if you're short on time.
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How to replace just a few boards in hardwood floor I want to replace a few boards in our pre-finished bamboo hardwood floor. After i take the damaged boards out and put the new boards in, how do i get the last board in? How do i get the existing floor board fit into the groove of the new one? <Q> The last board is always the tough one. <S> A trick that usually works is to cut off the lower half of the groove. <S> Now that last board will simply lay down in place. <S> The problem is then to get it to stay down. <S> For that you may need a few well placed finish nails, set into the board. <S> Then use some putty to hide the small nail heads. <S> A bead of glue along the tongue may also help to hold it in place. <A> Then you'll need to glue it down since it no longer has a full grove. <A> Oh this is a tough one. <S> Most likely the boards are tongue and groove <S> so you can't just pull them out. <S> On top of that, they are probably stapled to the floor (typically the recommend stapling bamboo rather than nailing.) <S> One strategy is to work backwards from the end of the installation toward the place where you need to replace the boards. <S> But that may be removing more than you would like and <S> the staples / nails may be difficult to remove. <S> The other approach would be to set a circular saw to the depth of the boards, and cut along the seem of the boards you want to replace. <S> This would remove detach the tongue and probably the staples / nails holding them down. <S> Then you would replace with the new boards, keeping in mind the last board you place will also need to have the tongue removed so it can fit down directly in place. <S> You can rip this with a table saw. <S> All in all, this is a hard job, and really hard to make it look like the original installation. <S> The "right" solution would be to remove the boards fromthe bad ones to the wall, but that is probably more work than you want.
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You have to cut the bottom of the grove off of the board you are inserting.
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What is the purpose of tape when taping and mudding drywall? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but it doesn't seem immediately obvious how a thin strip of paper tape actually helps the mudding process in drywall installation except for perhaps reducing the amount of mud needed between panels. This, from eHow: Embedded in a layer of drywall joint compound, drywall tape creates a physical bond between adjacent sheets of drywall. Although the bond does not significantly contribute to the structural support of the drywall sheets, the bond reduces the movement and cracking of the sheets. Wouldn't simply mudding between the joints have the same strength without the tape, albeit requiring more mud? <Q> Nope. <S> Go ahead and try it if you don't believe me! <S> I certainly did... <S> The problem with wood frame houses is that they shift in weird ways as the wind hits them and as the foundation settles. <S> The 8 foot long side of a standard drywall panel has a LOT of mechanical force to it if it moves even somewhat independently of the sheet next to it, and the joint compound rapidly turns to powder without tape to back it up. <S> The same can happen if there is too much or too little compound or the compound is the wrong type, you can also see this problem. <S> This is akin to the reason that drywall is gypsum between two sheets of paper... <S> All you have to do to break or cut the gypsum is to disturb the paper. <S> The best practice I've seen/used is to use Durabond to bed the tape, and then normal green stuff over it to feather the joint. <A> The tape installed along the length of butt-joints (bridging the gap, approx ½ the width of the tape is attached to each board) <S> in plasterboard is put there to help "prevent" cracks appearing along the joint lines. <S> In the UK we traditionally call it Scrim . <S> Wikipedia also has a pretty good write up on Drywall . <A> Paper tape has a much higher shear strength than drywall plaster. <S> Plaster can fill gaps, and smooth out the texture of the wall, but it's the drywall tape that holds it together as one seamless surface. <S> Plaster isn't superglue; it needs a large surface area to provide adhesion , which is what the tape (several layers of it, usually) provides. <S> For surfaces that have a high chance of moving (less climate control, load-bearing wall, seams that have already cracked), drywall mesh works even better, but that is a little harder to smooth, and more expensive, so it's generally used only on problem areas. <A> My experience is tape is for bridging gaps. <S> All purpose drywall mud does shrink over time and a thin coat over tape is going to shrink less than a thick coat filling a loose joint. <S> Hot set mud of the type I have used doesn't shrink. <S> The proof is in the doing, I redid the kitchen ceiling and walls of my 70 year old house and used tight joints, hot set mud and no tape. <S> That was three years ago and no defects noted to date.
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Tape doesn't shrink and helps reinforce the joint.
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How do I loosen my bathroom stopper pivot nut I'm trying to remove my bathroom sink stopper so that I can clean out the drain. I found these instructions for doing so but they talk about a pivot nut that can be loosened. Under my sink, in the place where a pivot nut is shown in the diagram on that link mine has this round fitting with grippy edges. I tried to use a needle nose pliers on it but it just slides and won't grip and I can't get leverage to turn it and loosen it. What is the correct tool for loosening this fitting? Sorry I don't know much about hardware or plumbing so I don't know the proper term for the round fitting. <Q> Don't bother with all that, just remove the U shaped pipe (The Trap) which should be a pressure fitting that can be easily unscrewed without any tools. <S> Most of the crap will be in that U part of the pipe, the rest you can get out by sticking something like a toilet brush or pipe cleaner up the exposed pipe. <S> BTW: Be sure to put a bucket under the pipe before you unscrew it, some nasty water will likely leak out. <S> As for that pivot nut, if you really want to remove it, it USUALLY is easy enough to unscrew with your bare fingers, but if it is rusted you can use a pair of channel lock pliers. <S> If it is just spinning however, it may be all the way off the threads <S> and you just need to pull it back. <S> It is attached to a rod that pivots in the middle of the pipe. <A> use a Zip- <S> It Clean and don't worry about disconnecting anything. <A> I had the same problem today. <S> Found your post. <S> Eventually found pliers that looked like this in my garage <S> and it worked just fine. <S> Also found I was trying to unscrew it in the wrong direction.
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You might need to shake it a little to get it loose, it will also probably help to detach the rod that goes from the sink stopper pull to that nut since it will get in the way.
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How do I stop bats from nesting in an attic? What is the best way to discourage bats from taking up residence in a house? <Q> I'd say the best way would be to find out where they're entering and close it off. <S> If it's open for ventilation use something like a chicken wire that will allow the air to easily flow through. <A> It looks somewhat like a very course steel wool, but in copper. <S> It doesn't rust, so it doesn't discolor siding, and is flexible, but doesn't stay compressed if you squeeze it. <S> It worked well for our place where bats were following the channels in our vertical siding into a cavity behind the fascia boards. <A> Sounds like a job for ... attic cat! <S> (that would have been a comment, but the picture couldn't be passed up) <A> It's hard to attract bats, most purpose bat houses go empty. <S> Feel blessed you've got bats. <S> You like mosquito bites? <S> But you might consider building something to restrict them to a certain area of the attic. <A> Without seeing your home it's hard to give an accurate reply. <S> You mentioned the soffit and facia: we had an ever so small but big enough gap for both mice and bats to get in where the soffit and wall meet. <S> We caulked all the way around the house on two levels. <S> It was a lot of tubes but worth it. <S> If you have had bats in the attic <S> and you get them out <S> you also need to consider clean up of the insulation as their waste is toxic.
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A pest control contractor supplied me with a box of a copper mesh material that could be stuffed into cracks that were serving as entry ways for bats (when they were known to be out).
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Can I use a 4x6 as a top plate for a stud wall? The beam on the front and back walls of a shed and will be extending out to support the roof overhanging the sides of the shed. So instead of using a typical 2x4 top plate for the walls and putting the beam on the top of that, can I just nail the studs into the 4x6 beam? <Q> I am confused as to the purpose of a 4X6 to support the roof overhang. <S> Are you using rafters and collar ties? <S> The rafter tails are usually what an overhang is created from. <S> You should consider the conventional way of using a double 2X4 top plate. <S> The second or top 2X4 plate overlaps corners to lock adjacent the walls. <S> A top plate of 4X6 would be very difficult to nail or screw to your studs without metal plates. <S> I see no advantage to using an oversize plate. <S> Maybe I'm missing the point of the question however. <A> It doesn't sound like a bad idea, provided that beam is well-supported along its length (for instance, consider doubling or tripling up on the 2x4s for one stud every few yards). <S> The only thing you'll have to consider is that, if you don't have a top plate and you ever want to take the wall down but leave the beam in place, it'll be more of a job because you can't just take the spikes holding the plate to the beam out. <A> If the 4x6 is going to be enough to support the roof overhangs (and depending on the design of your shed, potentially the whole roof + any snow load), there's no reason you couldn't use it for a top plate. <S> However, a 4x6 of any length is going to be heavy, and if it's doing double duty as your top plate it could make raising and setting the wall difficult if you're working solo. <A> The conventional way of extending out to support a roof system is to use your top plate like you should and run a 2x10 or 2x12 band nailed upright with the outside of your wall on the top plate. <S> You would then place blocks about 2 ft apart and place another 2x10 or 2x12 against it doubling the band on the outside where your roof is going to sit. <S> After you would run another plate on top. <S> You would want to band your building all the way around and set you joist in between the bands. <S> This will allow you to run a plate on top of your joist for the rafters. <S> What you can do after is run your joist out to catch your beam on the outside of the house. <S> If your joist run the other way, you would leave your last joist on the inside of your top plate and then run your joist out to your beam on the outside. <S> A 4x6 beam is a little over kill for a top plate.
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If you go with a conventional set of 2x4 plates you can raise the walls and then lift the 4x6 onto them, which might be an easier job.
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What tool should I use to cut memory foam? I need to cut 2x2 ft square pieces from a sheet of memory foam. Not sure what tool is best for this. Any ideas? In the future I'd like to cut circles and eventually sculpt irregular shapes, I don't know what tool can be used for this sort of job. <Q> For thicker pieces you might find you get better results by compressing the foam before cutting it. <S> You could make a simple straight-line clamp out of a couple of 2x4s linked with a door hinge -- just put your foam in between, clamp the open end shut with a C-clamp, and use one edge of the wood as a guide for your cut. <S> For your curved cuts it might make more sense to make a plywood die to match the final shape and press it down by hand or with something heavy before cutting around it. <A> I used a sharp razor knife on my memory foam. <S> You can make a line and just make long cuts. <S> Do not try to cut through it all at once. <S> Start by making your first cut deep enough that you can follow it through and make a straight cut. <S> Just keep cutting down your line until you are through. <S> Take your time and be careful and you will have a clean cut. <S> Don't use a saw or hot knife you will just ruin your topper. <S> A razor knife is your best tool for this. <A> Seriously. <S> Give it a try if you have one. <A> If this were styrofoam, I'd recommend a hot knife (basically a wire stretched taut on a frame similar to a jigsaw, and electrified to heat it). <S> However, visco-elastic foam will behave differently and you probably don't want to be breathing in the fumes produces by melting it. <S> In this white paper from the Polyurethane Foam Association regarding visco-elastic ("memory") foam, the PFA states that most conventional tools including saws can be used to cut VEF. <S> However, care must be taken to go slowly and not deform the foam too much with the cutting action, because the slower recovery of VEF to its original shape will cause defects in the kerf line and possibly cause the saw to bind more easily. <A> I use an electric carving knife. <S> It works great. <A> If you don't have an electric carving knife, which is the best tool, use a serrated bread knife. <S> Same action on both. <A> a really sharp knife should do the trick. <A> I strongly recommend you let the mattress chill outside on a flat surface that maintains its original shape. <S> The mattress becomes very hard when cold, in the same way warmth causes it to soften. <S> I would then follow the PFA recommendation; "that most conventional tools including saws can be used to cut VEF". <S> P.S. <S> I do not know what the PFA thinks about having soft or hard memory foam, but I know which of these I prefer. <A> I used a pair of Cutco scissors. <S> They worked great. <S> The foam I cut was about 3" thick. <S> I tried some other scissors first but they didn't even think about cutting it. <S> I think the reason the Cutco scissors worked so well is the serrated edge they have. <S> This made them bite into it instead of pushing back out like the other scissors I tried to use. <A> Well the best option is to clamp the memory foam between the 2 x 4' s.mentioned before.on top off a sharpy marked line, which is a marker.adjustable wood working clamps would work great for this. <S> no matter how thick, which will decide the length of your knife. <S> a good brand new razor utility knife preferably one that is disposable the kind that when you extend it you can break off the used dull portion. <S> By using this kind of . <S> razor knife when new you can extend it long enough to make a deep good clean cut through the thickness. <S> without having to buy or use one of your wife's or husbands kitchen knives or just something that just won't do a good job Wright off the bat, and wind up with something that looks like A person having a nervous break down did it . <S> the cost of a new razor knife like this is at the most $5 bucks at the dollar General store.
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An electric fillet knife does great at cutting this stuff.
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What would cause a slight thumping noise in water pipes on toilet and washer? Everyone once in a while, some of the pipes in our house make some noise, mainly only when you flush a the one toilet, or use the washer. When using the sinks, hoses, or shower, the noise is not heard. Its a rhythmic, light 'thumping' noise. It could almost be considered a clicking noise. It only lasts while the water is on, and only on the washer and flushing a toilet. Im assuming (since it happens while the water is on and not after its off) that this wouldn't be 'Water Hamer'. What could be causing this noise, and what should one do to correct it? Update : if it helps, the noise is at a rhythm of almost one per second, maybe a little quicker, but not really less than half a second. Update 2 : To be more accurate, the noise is actually probably a little faster than once every half a second. Here is a link to a M4A file (recorded from iPhone) . This was recorded on the wall opposite of the bathroom, where the pipes should be. <Q> Can you locate the noise (tricky because I am sure it is also traveling along the length of the pipe)? <S> Is it coming from a particular wall? <S> It could be a loose pipe that is moving a little (only when water is running through it) and hitting something. <A> If the pipes were cold (cold day) and the water being drained was fairly warm, the sound could be due to the pipes expanding from the heat. <S> Check out this link , about pipes making a knocking sound due to heat expanding the pipes. <A> It's not accompanied by any change in water pressure, is it? <S> If it's rhythmic, it could be the pressure switch toggling (which would indicate a problem with your pressure tank). <A> Is it possible that the supply line is banging against the wall as the water is flowing through it? <S> It might also be water hammer, but that isn't normally rhythmic. <S> Is your water from a well or a from the city? <S> If it's from a well, it might be something with your pressure tank or from the well pump cycling for some reason. <S> Maybe you could post a short video here? <A> Found this on the internet. <S> Ours started thumping after they changed the inside water meter. <S> The noise may also be a tapping sound. <S> The noise may appear to come from the water heater as the tank amplifies the sound. <S> Check the water meter, you will likely hear the noise coming from it. <S> The solution is to install a larger meter.
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A continuous thump, thump, thump noise, consisting of evenly spaced thumps when the water is running may be caused by a under-size water meter.
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What height should bathroom receptacle be off the ground? I am doing the rough-in electrical in my bathroom gut. I want to put a few receptacles (outlets) above the vanity. Is there a standard height I should be installing the receptacle? I don't have a floor or a vanity yet so I can't just measure from the counter top. <Q> Good practice is to keep them at least 4 inches above a counter top or backsplash and not directly over a sink or under a window. <S> Of course, all bathroom outlets must be GFCI protected. <A> Standard is 48" to the top screw hole of the box. <S> So it looks aesthetically correct with the switches. <S> I am a residential electrician, that's what we set them at. <A> Your counter tops should be <S> no more than 32-38 inches so just put them at about 4 feet that should be good enough. <S> I am making an assumption here. <S> Electrical work is not my specialty. <S> I am sure that there is a standard height; however, if you are doing this yourself, I do not see why you cannot put them where you want. <A> Dont forget the three and 12 rule... <S> reguardless of how many basins you have, a gfci protected outlet must be within 3 feet... <S> so if you have two vessel sinks in a master bathroom, one outlet between them could work, as long as neither is more than 3 feet away... <S> you are permited to put the receptacle 4 feet.from the wall, on a 3 foot vanity, that has a center sink, because it will be within 3 feet... <S> but it may not be less than 12 inches below the counter (unless there is an already qualified outlet meeting the rules). <S> Other than that, gfci and within 3 feet (be careful, arc fault is also gaining ground, check local authorities, they always answer your questions, its their job), you can place it where ever you like. <S> I aim for the bottom of the gang box to be 2" above the backsplash, unless its 100% tiled, then if wall mount, 2" below faucet, or if counter mount, 2" above faucet, and off set to outer edge of sink to the inside edge of.gang box.
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You can install them where ever they look good to you, but try to keep them as far left or right of the faucet as practicable. There are no set rules for the height of receptacles on walls or over counters, even in a bathroom.
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Are there any good ways to manage all the different chargers? My workbench is being invaded by chargers! I have 3 different battery chargers for different power tools, plus a couple of wall warts for simple stuff that plugs in directly. Some of the chargers have a regular, 110v plug, while others have the typical wall wart to contain the transformer. Short of replacing all the tools with something that uses a common battery or charging system, are there products available to manage this mess? <Q> One thing I love about the DeWalt batteries is that they maintained compatibility across a wide range of battery/charger combinations. <S> I standardized my own collection on them after my last set of power tools died and replacement batteries weren't available. <S> As for your challenge, many of these chargers should be wall mountable. <S> When we didn't have the trailer hooked up to power, the OSB was unscrewed from the wall and the entire charging station moved indoors. <S> The nice thing about the power strips is that a flip of the switch turns off all the transformers that leach power even when they aren't charging anything. <S> In a workshop itself, a ceiling mounted extension cord is handy for powering various tools. <S> And they also have extra long (6 foot long) power strips that have outlets spaced apart that would be perfect for mounting on the wall behind the workbench. <A> Switching tools to consolidate battery/charger types could be really expensive. <S> Do you have space on your wall for a cabinet? <S> You could build your own custom one with stations for your chargers built in to hide the mess and clear your workbench. <S> Just be careful to follow electric codes when you build it - no completely "walling off" extension cords or outlets. <S> It may be a good idea to start considering which brand and voltage of cordless power tools you find superior. <S> If it were me, I'd plan out my future purchases with this in mind. <A> Forgive the obvious answer, but a shelf would be the cheapest option. <S> The trick would be locating it where it's not in the way yet not hard to access. <S> If your workbench is deep enough, on the wall at the back would probably be a good spot.
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We've got a piece of OSB on the site with a dozen chargers and a couple of power strips all mounted which is mounted on the wall above a workbench.
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Should a second layer of asphalt be placed over an older layer of asphalt? I have an asphalt driveway. It has its fair share of cracks, etc. However, most troublesome is that "ruts" have formed from the weight of cars driving on it. This means there is a high spot in the middle that is taking a fair amount of abuse when I plow the driveway in the winter. It has been suggested that I should put another layer of asphalt on top. If current asphalt and whatever is under it is not hard enough to stand up to weight of car traffic, doesn't really seem like another layer of asphalt is what I need, but if I knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be here... Should I have another layer of asphalt put down on top? If not, what should be done? <Q> you're regularly driving/parking on it. <S> So, you've got a few choices: <S> Another layer of blacktop every year or two, and probably mopping tar on it every summer. <S> Tear it up and put in a new asphalt driveway, which will probably have the same problems. <S> I would make sure you consult an engineer and have a few soil cores/studies done before you pursue this angle... you will want to have the substrate rebuilt from the soil on up, and you will want to have had some soil studies for expansion ratios and whatnot done and an appropriate base engineered before you pursue this angle. <S> This will PROBABLY include digging up everything that is there -- the blacktop, crushed gravel, and all, re-tilling the soil with some additives to improve <S> it's compressibility for your climate, and then re-laying everything... probably a bit thicker. <S> Tear it up and put in a concrete driveway with a high PSI load concrete, which will occasionally have problems due to the freeze/thaw cycle, but won't sag due to vehicle weight and where you can have any lippage that appears ground down <S> and then can cover it with blacktop again when it does finally blow out or get too thin to grind. <S> See notes above about soil+engineering study, plus tearing out all the base layers and digging deeper/re-packing them. <S> The last is the pattern that will last the longest, but is obviously going to cost most. <A> Your problem is the ground under asphalt is not strong enough to sustain load. <S> If you put a new layer of asphalt over the existing driveway it will get the same rut very quickly. <S> Asphalt is highly flexible and once the ground under asphalt sags asphalt sags too. <S> The real solution would be to tear the driveway up and put proper ballast. <S> If there's any flexible earth beneath (like fertile soil) it should be removed and replaced with sand. <S> Then you have to put crushed stone ballast and ram it thoroughly. <S> Once you have rigid base you can put either concrete or asphalt. <S> Also see this answer to a question about repairing concrete driveways. <A> Your existing asphalt is an excellent base for a second layer of asphalt. <S> Not so good for macadam , chip and seal , and some other asphalt pavement substitutes. <S> Assuming you do not have a serious problem like some peat deposits. <S> In the past , asphalt concrete was promoted to governments as a base for cement concrete pavement. <S> ( The higher price of oil has made this too costly.)
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Another layer of blacktop asphalt, usually a finer "grit", will fill the low spots and get you through another year -- but it sounds like your driveway is under-engineered for the weight
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What are the pros and cons of Owens Corning shingles vs. GAF shingles? I am looking to get a new roof for my house. I have taken quotes from about 4 contractors and 3 of them are suggesting I should use GAF shingles. 1 suggests that Owens Corning is a better shingle and I should use that. I am really new in this field and not sure which material to go for? Does it matter which material I choose or are these both good shingles and which one I use does not matter? <Q> More important question: Which contractor did you feel the most comfortable with and which has the best work history in your area -- <S> have you checked BBB and something like Angies List? <S> Who has the best relationship with their wholesaler/supplier and can get you support if you need it in case of roof damage? <S> Owens Corning and GAF make comparable products; the Owens Corning warranty is longer, but neither warranty is good unless the installer installs it properly with the proper number of nails at the proper spacing. <S> Specifically, the two products that you're looking at are almost identical. <S> One difference besides the warranty is that Owens Corning has a constant bead of sealant on the backside of the shingles to seal them to the shingles underneath; if you're in an area that gets significant amounts of wind-driven rain (such as a coastal area) to the point that you will be testing the wind resistance of the shignle, you will PROBABLY want to choose the GAF shingle because the Owens Corning shingles sometimes have problems draining after water has blown up underneath them. <S> Remember that it isn't the shingle that matters; the shingle really just protects your roof. <S> Your roof is actually the tar paper and other membrane (such as Grace Ice & Water Shield) that goes on under the shingles. <S> Those products should be of the highest quality and have perfect installations. <S> Getting good shingles is essential, but it's almost secondary if you cheap out on the underlayments or your roofer installs it incorrectly. <S> One note that I'm suggesting all homeowners explore: If your attic is hot during the summer, look into the 'Cool Roof' shingles that both OC and GAF produce. <S> They have a reflective substance in with the stone and will help reflect solar energy back out before it has a chance to enter your roof structure. <A> Our go to shingle is the GAF timberline, but from time to time we will upgrade someone to the OC duration. <S> One of the benefits we found with the OC is the nylon nailing strip. <S> We don't have any nails blowing through and if we need to rip on up, most times the nails come with it. <S> GAF has a very small nailing strip making it harder for my guys to hit the line every time. <S> So, I feel that the duration would stand up better to higher winds, because of that reason. <S> Other than that I find no difference. <A> Any roofer worth his salt will never say the other guy's shingles are better. <S> As to the two manufacturers making most all of the shingles (of any brand), GAF and OC are on par as to "pros and cons." ... <S> because, just like any other manufactured item, being noticeably different invariably assures a smaller market. <S> So concentrate on the types of shingles, not the brand. <S> Shingle manufacturers will carve the customer up long before the customer has the slightest hope of carving them up... <S> that's a fact.
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So as far as what the shingle is made of, I do not feel there is any benefit, but I do like that nailing strip, it makes for a better installation. I own a roofing company and have used both products.
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When re-screening window solar screens, how do I avoid warping the frame? I'm re-screening my solar screens. I have found that a very small one is easy but larger ones present some challenges (not surprisingly). I don't want the screen to be too loose and sag. However, if I try and make sure it is taut, it tends to warp the frame inward. Can someone suggest a technique that will minimize this? I have thought of making some sort of jig, but all the screens are different sizes and I would rather not have to build a jig for each screen. <Q> I clamped two of four sides (left side and bottom, for example) to a workbench while I was doing them. <S> Then I worked on the side that was away from the two clamped down sides. <S> It's not so much about getting it taut as it is about getting it even ... <A> If you're building custom frames, take a scrap piece of the frame, cut it to the inside width of your frame, use it as a temporary support... like a cross bar... if you do not have extra material, or you're re-screening old frames, maybe a thin piece of wood will work for your temporary cross bar? <S> Also, I like to use a T-square <S> , it helps keep the frame from sliding everywhere... <S> (if you don't have a fancy work bench, with a raised lip, or "jigs"...) <S> So yeah, install your screen, then remove the temporary support cross bar, and voila! <S> No bowing! <S> Took me a while to figure this trick out, I'm a perfectionist, and the bow was driving me crazy... <S> finally I got this idea, and worked like a charm. <A> I found it helpful to just simply grab the center of the frame and bow out the center. <S> That way, when you screen your mesh in, it will suck in but only enough, avoiding the hourglass shape in your screen. <S> When you're done, check your center measurement making sure you have the same measurement as the width of your screen. <A> I start by cutting the piece of material that will fit over the screen leaving about an inch to 2 inches over each side. <S> I take advantage of 1 straight edge of the screen mat and that side in first holding the mesh and the spline at the same time guiding the spline in at the same time holding the material. <S> Before I start most material comes with a slight bend make sure you have the opposite of an hourglass before you start that way as you screen, it will pull in where needed,then check the center of your measurement. <S> Then I continued around the corner by dimpling the screen in with my finger and running the second side as straight as possible. <S> Before I run the third side I check for bows, and again I hold the spline and the material as I roll. <S> The last side is your last chance to get rid of the SAG so having your finger slightly dipped into the mesh as you roll will prevent it from being too tight. <S> And last but not least use your sharp razor blade and hold it on the outside of the spline farthest away from material trimming off excess. <S> That should allow you to manufacture at least 15 screens per hour.
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If your screen is still too tight try dragging the tip of your finger in front of your spline as you roll to prevent the spline from pulling the material too tight.
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Under UK Building Codes are you allowed to add an additional stopcock? I live in the UK and have recently moved into a new home. I've been told the stopcock is "under the floorboards in the dining area" (nothing more specific). I can't find any loose carpet that's easy to pull up. To avoid any panic carpet pulling up in future, and to avoid tearing up the carpet now, is it possible to get someone to install a new stopcock somewhere more accessible? Is there some law/code dictating only one stopcock per property? Another option could be to buy a key for our outside stopcock, but can anyone buy one? <Q> I don't why you couldn't install a new stop cock after the current one but in a more accessible location. <S> We've installed shut off valves at various points so we can work on each sink/bath/toilet/shower without having to turn off the whole supply. <S> This is just an extension of that principle. <S> The main argument against more than one actual stop cock is (I assume) <S> the potential confusion it could cause. <S> However, you would have to turn the water off to do this - which would entail finding the existing stop cock (and we're back where we started). <S> Theoretically you could turn the water off outside - <S> but, as Mike says, you're not really supposed to touch those. <A> I think any “single stop cock” rule would be there to stop you having to turn off more than one stop cock to shut of all the water . <S> So I expect you can put a new stop cock provided <S> it does not stop the existing stop cock turning off all the water. <S> A lot of people that can’t reach their stop cock and add something like this : <A> I honestly don't know if the UK Building Regulations (Code) says anything about having more than one main stopcock located inside a single-dwelling property. <S> Regardless I would most definitely want to locate and ensure the existing stopcock is working correctly before doing anything else. <S> If that stopcock fails (original one) for whatever reason and you've installed a second one past the original one, the second one isn't going to do you any good whatsoever... Not always, but "generally" in the UK the main stopcock inside the house is located somewhere along a straight line with the outside stopcock. <S> I would first look along that line, maybe feel for a loose floorboard. <S> I know you said you were told the stopcock is "under the floorboards in the dining area", but I would question that. <S> In my (limited) experience, I've never seen the stopcock located in such an area, if it's an old (or original) stopcock it will be under a floorboard somewhere on the ground floor, normally within the kitchen, or the cupboard under the stairs or some other cupboard (coatroom) on the ground floor... <S> Locating and shutting off the mains water supply <S> Yes, anyone in the UK can buy a key for an outside stopcock, but as far as I'm aware (unless there has been a change in the law the past few years, since I moved abroad) it is "strictly" illegal to touch that outdoor stopcock. <S> It is owned by and for the use of the water company only. <S> That said, many people (especially plumbers, builders) own the required key and use it - just be aware if you're unlucky enough to get caught doing <S> so you can get in trouble, and if you break or damage the outside stopcock you're liable for its repair/replacement ie Proceed at your own risk, knowing the possible consequences if you get caught using it or break/damage the actual outside stopcock while using it. <S> Some additional reading that you might find helpful/useful: <S> Moving a stop cock PROJECT <S> Moving a mains water stopcock
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My guess would be you're not allowed to, or at least strongly recommended not to have more than one main stopcock located inside a single-dwelling...
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When drywalling, do the pros cover electrical boxes, or work around them? This may be a bit of a subjective question, but I was just thinking about it. I've seen many electrical boxes that are full of drywall compound, often to the point of having to dig the wires out of it so you can use it. To prevent this, should the boxes be taped up (with tape and/or plastic cover) prior to drywall going up, or is this just caused by lazy/sloppy mudding? Is this the responsibility of the electrician or drywaller? <Q> I am a general contractor <S> and I'm having a house redone right now after the electrician and plumber roughed in. <S> When the mudding is done and they do the finish, I'll go around and remove the newspaper and clean up the boxes. <S> This takes about an hour total time and sparkey and plumber will love you for it. <S> If it's a time and material job, you will save a couple of hours on both subs, so it's a big payback. <A> When hanging, there's the day laborer way, which is to put the drywall up over the box and then roto-zip the box, and there's the pro way, which is to cut the hole ahead of time because you've got the skill to measure and mark it. <S> When mudding as in the above picture, the guys will often get a big chunk of mud into the box (It's hard not to... especially when working fast with hot mud), but it's their responsibility to get it back out once it hardens. <S> Construction is changing, though. <A> IMHO <S> this is sloppy mudding, pure and simple. <S> If it were my project, it would be the responsibility of the dry waller, but I am not a contractor. <A> The answers on here are not how I would expect any pro to handle drywall/mudding. <S> You simply stuff the electrical boxes with newspaper. <S> That's it. <S> Doesn't come out until you are done sanding. <S> After you take it out you have a few slivers here <S> and there to clean up. <S> You use a utility knife (no automated tool - which would be slower and cause a dust mess). <S> You are left with a clean box that has mud protection around it. <S> This is basically free and you can stuff all the boxes in a house in a few minutes.
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New standards for energy efficiency are encouraging things like caulking all seams in drywall (especially around outlets), which requires much more care from installers. I tape off the plumbing and stuff newspaper in the electric boxes and light fixture boxes.
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My wall outlet is making a hissing noise, should I be concerned? My wife leaves her laptop charger plugged into a wall outlet. As soon as she connects the other end to the laptop (meaning AC is actively flowing through the plug to the laptop), it makes a strange hissing noise. Is this something to worry about? Is this the outlet itself, or a symptom of a bigger problem? <Q> Shut off the power at the breaker. <S> Confirm that the power is off using either an electric light plugged into the outlet, or by using a Non-contact voltage tester . <S> Unscrew the faceplate of the outlet, then unscrew the outlet. <S> Examine the wires for heat damage or signs of arcing. <S> This is definitely something you should worry about; I'd expect to see something like this: If you don't feel comfortable doing that, call an electrician. <A> Does the noise happen when another item such as a lamp is plugged in the outlet? <S> If so, the outlet is bad and needs to be replaced or has loose wire connections. <S> If it doesn't make noise with anything but the computer power supply, it may be the transformer of the power supply making the noise. <A> If the problem hissing is from the transformer than this may be caused when the copper coils are too close or have lost their shield coating. <S> If this is your problem, you should consider replacing the item because it is extremely unsafe. <S> Overall, just replace the item. <S> It is unwise to work with loaded circuits. <A> If it's a spur it's most likely known as a broken spur which mean there's no power going to one and all the power going to the other which is to much power which majesty's <S> the hissing noise <S> it's extra voltage trying to pass through. <S> If it's not a spur <S> it's either heat damaged or the front plate needs <S> replacing either of these problems need fixed and fast also if the flex has been lengthend by a convection block it must be the right amp and can't be used as a permanent way to lengthen the flex
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If the circuit makes a 'hissing' noise as soon as load is applied, then you definitely should check that outlet for a problem. I'd probably just go ahead and replace the outlet.
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How should I approach my landlord about doing basic repairs on their house? I have a good relationship with my landlords, and there are some small improvements that I would be willing to do to the house in exchange for, depending on the situation, either permission permission + materials permission + materials + compensation (e.g. adjusted rent). As examples (small jobs to start with) I already do pretty heavy yardwork because I enjoy it, but I would want their permission before doing serious pruning the driveway is cracked and I would be willing to remove the weeds and fill the cracks if they would buy the materials They have a really nice deck that needs to be stained, and I would be willing to do this in exchange for materials and something like 1/2(?) of the going rate of a professional. I would appreciate advice from people who have made such arrangements (as a renter or especially from the landlord's side). <Q> I have been a renter in a similar situation to you. <S> The types of projects I did were major landscaping, installing hardwood floors and trim, replacing old appliances, plumbing repairs, and pest control. <S> In general you are going to have the easiest time with low cost, low risk work. <S> By low risk <S> I mean risk of messing up something serious that ends up costing the landlord a lot to fix, or injuring yourself or others (immediately or for future tenants). <S> Start with a smaller projects, like the pruning and filling cracks. <S> Include in your agreement a way to be reimbursed for minor expenses by turning in receipts when the work is completed. <S> If the landlord is not local, be sure and send pictures of completed work so you can show how nice it is. <S> This will build their confidence for allowing you to do future work. <S> I never had any problem getting reimbursed for out-of-pocket expenses that were minor or agreed to in advance. <S> I think you may have more difficulty getting paid for your labor. <S> I never got paid for mine outright, but I did negotiate a lower rent. <A> I'm actually a landlord and here's my thoughts. <S> As our poster suggested - I would start by doing small projects to show that you have the skills needed. <S> That will also show that you are even capable of finishing a project. <S> If at this point you are able to estabilish a good relationship with your landlord, suggest doing bigger stuff. <S> Offer to write up some sort liability waiver stating that if you break you back staining the deck, you are not going to sue. <S> That really opens up a can of worms in terms of liability and such. <S> I do all work myself on my rental units, but in any case I would rather hire someone for twice as much than pay my tenants. <A> i am a landlord (with just one property) and i agree with poster #2. <S> i am almost always willing to pay for materials if a job is agreed upon in advance. <S> however, even in that case, i reserve the right to select the materials myself <S> (what brand/color of deck stain, for example.) <S> but i have never negotiated rent in exchange for labor. <S> basically, if the tenant wants a higher quality of life (more attractive deck) while they live at the property, i'm happy to fund it. <S> but paying the tenant (even through reduced rent) is a different story and brings up all sorts of potential problems. <S> the exception that i can think of is if i were ever to rent to a licensed/bonded/insured contractor. <S> in that case, i might be very happy to work out some agreement, but it would be done with a very stringent contract. <S> like many landlords out there <S> , i lose money on our property ever month. <S> no matter how much "upgrading" my renter may want to do, my mortgage on the property doesn't go down--and the bank isn't letting me negotiate lower payments with them!
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I wouldn't expect to get any compensation(except for materials) from any sensible landlord. Describe the work you'd like to do and get approval in writing.
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How can I find the source of a mysterious bad smell? We have recently moved home, and all is fine appart from a mystery smell which I'm unable to track down. It's driving me crazy (actually, my wife thinks I am crazy as she can't smell it). I'm hoping someone on here could offer some tips on how to track it down, or what it might be. Here's some info: Background: The house is a two floor (plus basement) block/concrete construction. There is a wide hallway on the groundfloor connecting the rooms (including kitchen, toilet/shower room, stairwell). The stairs are wood-board on concrete. The floor in the hall and kitchen is tiles over concrete, the rest woodblock/parquet over concrete. Location of the smell: I usually smell it when coming down the stairs, seems to be strongest about half way down. However sometimes it doesn't smell on the stairs at all, but rather in the ground floor hallway. Seems to move around quite a lot. Occasionally I have felt it upstairs, but assume this is it drifting. The basement smells fine. The Smell: The best description of the smell I can give is something like old rubbish. What I've investigated so far: 1) Something died somewhere? This was my initial thought, and since I usually notice the smell on the stairs I thought I'd try there first. I've taken up some of the wood on the stairs (not all yet) but not looking promising, as there really isn't much space between the wood boards and the concrete. Not really sure where else something could have gotten, as everything seems to be tight against the concrete. 2) Smell from kitchen moving into rest of house? I never really detected a bad smell in the kitchen, but thought I'd rule it out anyway. I thought maybe it was the bin under the kitchen sink that might be causing it. So I moved the bin to a small storage room at the back of the kitchen (and kept the door closed) and thoroughly cleaned inside the cupboard under the sink. No change. I also looked behind all of the cabinets for a problem, but could not see anything. 3) Gas from drains? The sink doesn't smell in the kitchen, and it's got a P-bend trap on the pipe - so I can't see a problem there. Cant detect a smell from the plugholes in the bathroom either. The bathroom sink waste pipe has a bottle-trap on it. Don't know if there is a trap on the shower as it's a sealed unit, but I'm guessing yes (and can't smell anything). Can any one think of something I might have missed, or give any advice? <Q> Guesses so far... <S> Stinky mop. <S> Solution: <S> Wash the mop. <S> Stinky Jack Russell Terrier. <S> Solution: <S> Wash the dog. <S> Dead thing in wall. <S> Solution: <S> Dead thing in vent. <S> Solution: <S> See above item. <S> Stinky toilet. <S> Solution 1: <S> Flush the toilet. <S> Solution 2: <S> Wash the toilet. <S> Solution 3: Replace wax ring. <S> Solution 4: Light a match / candle. <S> Gas leak. <S> Solution: Call gas company to find and fix leak. <S> Stinky ghost. <S> Solution 1: <S> Wash the ghost. <S> Solution 2: Exorcism. <A> Get a UV light that detects pet stains in the dark. <A> It was ghostly, in that you would only catch a small whiff once in a while while in the house; however, when you came back into the house after being out just a few hours it smelled much worse. <S> It was mostly isolate to the kitchen, but, again, you could smell it at the front door when coming in from outside. <S> To make a 4 month story short, it was rancid grease on top of the kitchen cabinets. <S> No one had cleaned up there in 15 years. <S> The original owners, who built it, had also put support frames up there for displaying things, and those were not painted; so they absorbed all the odors. <S> 3 years later, after cleaning up there thoroughly, removing the frames, and sealing the tops of the cabinets, we have no smell; but ti did linger for about a year, through quarterly washings of the tops of the cabinets. <S> The good news is the seller took a very big hit on the price for that odor. <A> If the house is old enough, the kitchen sink probably drains into a catch basin . <S> It will smell unless it has an air-tight cover, especially if you use a garbage disposal. <S> It may be time to honey-dip <S> the sump (pump) <S> and/or the catch basin. <S> Leaky sewer pipes underneath the slab can sometimes smell like 'old garbage' (opposed to the new kind ) as stuff builds-up outside the pipe. <S> I've stop-gaped this problem by caulking where the slab meets the walls and installing a radon fan on top of the stack to keep a negative pressure on the system. <S> We're still looking into replacing the main run that has been somewhat crushed by the walls, as the building settled. <S> ($$$, not DiY) <A> Check if there's something inside or behind electric radiators, if you have these. <S> A classic but terrible prank is to put shrimp shells inside a heating radiator, very hard to find out. <S> The smell seems to move because of slow air movements (and is probably pulled to the stair because the air rises or falls between your two floors, think about if the smell is in cold air going downwards or hot air moving upwards. <S> You could also try to isolate it by taping the sides of the doors (without anyone locked up inside, of course). <A> We spent ten years with a mysteriously stinky basement. <S> " <S> Upon selling the house, the buyer's inspector noticed we had an uncapped cleanout in our sewer line. <S> It was just letting sewer gas flow unchecked into our basement. <S> We put in a plug and the entire house – especially the basement – smells like ten times better.
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We just decided "it's an old house, that's how our basement smells. Find the dead thing and remove it. It took us 4 months to track down our odor. Of course, we've sold the place so mostly the new owners will get to enjoy the non-stinky house. It also detects a few other stains, you may find the source with that.
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Do I need to pre-drill holes in particle board for screws? I'm set to buy a bunch of IKEA furniture, which is notoriously all particle board. (Ah, particle board.) I'd like to strengthen some of the beams of the HOPEN bed with L-brackets from the big-box hardware store of choice. My question is this: since adding the L-brackets will mean screws, do I need to pre-drill holes into the wood to avoid splitting the particle board? Is there a way to prep these holes without a hand-held power drill? Can I drill the L-brackets in without pre-drilling at all but with great care? <Q> The larger the screw, the more likely you'll need to pre-drill. <S> If you're installing the screw near the edge, or if the screw is larger than maybe 1/8" wide on the solid part, then I'd pre-drill. <S> Also, make the hole as deep as the screw minus the size of the bracket. <S> Use some tape on the drill bit to see when to stop. <S> That said, for your bed, looking at the plans, I think you'll get the most added stability by adding a short piece of 2x2 vertically as a center brace under the metal bar. <S> Check the hardware isle of your HI store to see if you can find an adjustable foot to put on this board, and then attach it via a few screws to the center beam. <S> This is actually a quick way to detect some lower quality beds that use wooden slats from side to side. <S> If the slats have a center brace going to the floor, it's a lower quality bed. <S> Edit: For clarity, just imagine a table with a 5th leg right in the middle. <S> The adjustable legs <S> I'm thinking of screw into the wood leg of a piece of furniture and look something like this <S> (this is a cutaway view, you simply install it into a hole you drill into the bottom of the leg): <A> As BMitch has said, it depends on the size of the screw, how near you are to the edge, etc. <S> It also depends on how hard/soft the wood is. <S> The harder the wood, the more you should make a pilot hole near to the diameter of the inner threads. <S> I'd say in hard wood, you should consider using a pilot hole when the inner threads of the screw are 1/8th of an inch, and definitely use one if the inner threads are 3/16ths of an inch. <S> Softer wood, on the other hand, will be more willing to accommodate a screw significantly larger than the pilot, and using a smaller pilot hole is actually desirable, as it creates more pressure against the screw, and that means higher pull-out strength. <S> Obviously particle board should be considered a soft wood. <S> If, for example, you use a screw with inner threads that are roughly 1/8th of an inch, then I wouldn't normally use a pilot hole... <S> but I think you probably should use a 1/16th pilot in your case since you are most likely working with thin pieces of wood, and you don't want to risk having the excessive pressure creating visible deformities. <A> one word. <S> . . <S> GLUE! <S> Particle board crumbles and nails, screws and staples are almost ridiculous. <S> I just had <S> a particle board kitchen cabinet come falling down because there was nothing holding it up on the wall (with all the heavy china and everything) <S> but a couple of lousy staples. <S> The rest of the cabinet is held together with simple joints (not as angular as dovetails) and GLUE. <S> The glued part is doing quite fine thank you. <S> Why they didn't use glue on the supporting edge I will never know. <S> (The cabinet has been glued now and is going back up!) <S> To have furniture that is re-assemble-able there must be a female screw receptor sunk into the particle board--preferably glued in. <S> If these fall out, Gorilla glue foams while drying and is really wonderful, while regular carpenters glue is great if you are simply gluing particle board to particle board (watch for plastic coatings). <S> Also for steamy places, such as cook stoves and bathrooms, particle board and hard board, especially that must support weight, should be painted/ <S> finished to prevent the absorption of moisture which will cause it to warp and disassemble. <A> Particle board pilot holes need to be quite deep, as deep as the screw, according to literature. <S> My screws at moment are quite sharp taper, so making holes a little less than the screw length. <S> Personally, I still want the screw to bite into some grain. <S> I also drop wood glue on toothpick and slide into hole, not much, as I read this is a tried and true method. <S> Finally, a difference with MDF - there is an awesome video of a man who demonstrates MDF requires a much less pilot hole length. <S> Differently than particle board.
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To pre-drill, make the hole almost as large as the solid part of the screw (not the threads themselves, they need to have something to bite into). To answer your question: it depends. You have a long span from the headboard to the foot of the bed which will benefit from an extra support directly in the middle.
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Why does my washing machine leak only during the spin cycle? For the second time in a month, I found that my washing machine had flooded the kitchen floor (and part of the basement via the hole for the water line to the fridge). The first time, I only noticed it at the end of the wash. This time, I know it happened during the spin cycle because I had just been in the kitchen a few minutes earlier and hadn't seen anything out of the ordinary. The washer is a Maytag LAT9706AAE and is at least eight years old (I bought it with the house) but has been reliable until this. The load size was set between medium and large (it's on a continuous slider); Extra Rinse (which uses more water in the rinse cycle) was turned off and Extra Spin (which causes it to spin for longer) was turned on. Why would it leak only during the spin cycle? Is this something I could repair easily, or is it time for a new washer? <Q> You have a crack somewhere in the drainage system. <S> The most likely reason that it's leaking on the spin cycle is the vibration caused by the spin cycle is opening the crack to let the leaking occur. <A> We just had the same problem, and the solution may be much easier than one might think if they have never cleaned out their washing machine before. <S> We have had ours for over 10 years, and have never cleaned it. <S> The drain plugs in the washing drum can become clogged over time such that the motor can't drain the water fast enough before the machine spins up - resulting in excess water centrifuging up and over the top edge of the drum and down onto the floor when a heavy load has been placed in the drum with a lot of water during the spin cycle. <S> Here is one (or I'm sure many) ways to solve this problem (assuming that you have already checked all lines/drains/seals for leaks and none exist): http://www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/2012/04/how-to-clean-your-top-loader-washing.html <A> We have exactly the same problem, we pulled the washer out from the wall where we could watch the the complete wash cycle. <S> Everything was fine until it started to spin. <S> At first, water/soap bubbles came out right at the entrance to the trap, followed by water dripping. <S> At this point I'm just guessing what's going on since there was no leaking during the draining process. <S> So will have to pull washer completely away from the wall to check the pump area for any irregularities. <S> So to work I go. <A> I had a similar problem, I took the back off our machine and the drum and when I ran it saw water shooting out near the top in the back. <S> When I tilted the machine forward I could see the drum that holds the laundry had rust holes in it; I guess when it spins the water flies out these holes! <S> (I'm not a very handy person, so I don't have all the answers, but none of the other posters mentioned this possibility.) <A> This will sound stupid, but on top-loaders it can come from simply having too much in it, or too large item. <S> Or some items that cause it to be unbalanced, but not enough for the machine to dance around. <S> I came in my house one day to see the lid flopping up and down, the rinse water just bouncing off the top of beach towels. <S> I've also stopped it when it was just vibrating more than usual to see the drum leaning enough that water was bouncing off the high side. <S> BTW, pushing the clothes down in front loading it and tipping the drum causes water to bounce off the high side while filling. <S> But I also had to replace the drain pump once, <S> yes it didn't seem to leak until actually draining. <S> All these other horrible malfunctions of the same machine: "operator error". <A> We, also, had that problem. <S> We discovered that the large, donut shaped piece, at the top of the drum, which Maytag calls a "Tub Cover" had started splitting, allowing water to come out during the spin cycle. <S> It's about an $80 part, which I replaced myself, and it solved the problem. <S> I ran a load of wash with the front cover removed to discover the problem.
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It appears the pump is forcing more air and water from the spin/rinse cycle than the trap can handle.
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Is there a better solution than a lint trap for venting a clothes dryer indoors? My condo association does not allow installing a dryer vent to outdoors, so I am forced to vent my dryer into a lint trap . Unfortunately the trap I have does not catch all the dust, and the rooms adjacent to it gather visible dust within 2-3 weeks. I make sure to change the water in the trap after every load. Are there traps available that perform better? Are there any additional filters/gadgets that may help with this? Some additional notes: As much as I would like to set up a vent to outside, it is not an option for me. Humidity is not an issue, as I only dry clothes with no or lowest heat setting, and I do have an a/c register nearby to help provide dry air. Edit: The dryer is electric. I live in a suburb of Chicago, which may have a different building code than the city itself. <Q> According to Chicago Building Code 18-28-504.1 Installation. <S> Clothes dryers shall be exhausted in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. <S> Dryer exhaust systems shall be independent of all other systems and shall convey the moisture and any products of combustion to the outside of the building. <S> Exception: <S> Where the make and model of an electric dryer is known and the manufacturer’s <S> installation instructions do not require exhaust, see Article 4, Ventilation for room exhaust requirements. <S> Venting a dryer inside is a potential fire and mold hazard, and can negatively affect indoor air quality causing sickness (and/or death, maybe). <S> A possible down side to this action is, the condo association could ban the installation of dryers altogether. <S> So you'll want to try and suggest some alternatives. <S> I'm going to guess, the condo association is worried about the appearance of vents sicking out all over the building. <S> They may also want all vents to be installed in similar locations, so the vents are uniformly placed on the building. <S> A good way to insure this would be to install all the vents at once, including installing vents for units without dryers (in which case they should be sealed until in use). <A> Just get an electric condenser dryer , we have a Bosch <S> WTW84560GB <S> that is great, it also uses a lot less power than the older models that need venting. <A> Both comments on your question are correct. <S> Bring this up with your condo supervisor. <S> If he refuses to do anything about it, I would call the city building inspectors and find out what you can do about this. <S> All ventilation for dryers should be directed to the outside, because(like <S> what has been said by Tester and Greebo) <S> this promotes a big fire/mold hazzard. <S> As well, if it gets too bad, <S> and there is enough particulate floating in the air, this can cause a static discharge that could start the fire without there being any danger of having an open flame source in the room where it is venting into. <S> Call your city building inspector. <A> As already stated, venting a dryer indoors is illegal and extremely dangerous (especially if it's a gas dryer)...as well as just a huge annoyance (you end up with a humid, dusty room). <S> What you can do is invest in a Washer/Dryer combo unit that doesn't require venting. <S> It works via dehumidification. <S> It takes longer to wash and dry, but works great: <S> And I'd do as others have suggested as well... <S> you don't want ANY of the dryers in the building venting to the inside. <S> Force the association to fix this issue for everyone.
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A potential appeasement would be to select a nice looking vent (voted on by the condo association), and force anybody who installs a dryer to use the same vent. You should bring this up with the condo association, the building owner, and potentially the building inspector.
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Is a sump pump stand necessary? Is it necessary to have a sump pump stand installed between the bottom of the sump-pit and the sump pump to keep sediment and debris out of the pump intake? Alternatively, can I just put a brick or some other material under the sump pump to raise the pump intake a couple of inches away from the bottom of the pit to serve the same purpose? The idea of a stand makes sense, but is it an add on that companies sell, or do many pumps fail every year because of sediment and debris in their intakes? Examples of sump pump stands from the googles: http://www.google.com/search?q=sump+pump+stand A common search result on the googles are branded sites in different geographic locations selling their very expensive branded "Triple Safe" systems: http://www.basementsystems.com/sump-pump/cleanpump-sump-pump-pedestal.html <Q> I stopped at several home improvement stores today to ask about sump pump stands to several different opinions from those who sell sump pumps directly: Gary at Home Depot: <S> More interested in his phone than talking to me. <S> His recommendation was not to worry about it. <S> "Why is there sediment in your sump basin? <S> It should just be water in your sump basin." <S> Dave at Menards: He pointed out that the sump pumps with intakes on the bottom are designed to "pass any solids that will fit into the intake". <S> He pointed to two separate models with different size holes near the intake and explained that it acts as a filter to keep any larger sediment out of the pump. <S> Lesley at Lowes: She suggested not to buy one of the stands, but instead to just place the pump on a brick. <S> The brick will serve the same purpose by raising the pump up a couple of inches. <S> None of the stores sold a stand of any kind. <A> Newer sump pumps have larger openings for the impeller. <S> If your has gravel at the bottom like mine then you need something under it to prevent damage <A> I had some issues with water in my basement last year, so I got a new more powerful sump pump and a battery backup system. <S> The sump pump came with a small foot built in that kept it a couple of inches off the bottom to prevent the sediment from causing issues. <A> The big box stores mainly just have kids working in them that really don't know anything. <S> Sump stands are sold by some pump manufacturers and serve the same purpose as a few bricks laid side by side in the sump basin. <S> The difference with the stands is that they usually have some attachment to the pump whereas bricks just sit under the pump. <S> The key to any of this is not to raise the pump so high that the weep tile under the floor stays constantly flooded (not good). <S> Good (not cheap) <S> sump pumps are made to come on often to drain the basin. <S> The weak point always being the switch mechanism. <S> I live in the Chicago area where sump pumps are the norm. <S> My sump pump comes on once a minute during heavy rain and will keep coming on every few hours for two weeks afterward. <S> During the dry summer or freezing winter, the sump basin will be as dry as a bone. <S> As such, I change out the switch on my Zoeller M98 once a year (usually in July). <S> So far, no problem. <A> Just put it on the bottom of put. <S> You will have less standing water in pit and mine has worked fine this way for eight years and counting. <S> Same pump from day one. <A> Mine was installed right on the bottom and has lasted for 32 years so far. <S> I am replacing it tomorrow just because im afraid the old one will finally fail. <S> I regenerate my water softner into sump well and it runs quite often during heavy rains. <S> I guess I just got lucky with the builders installed off brand one from a local TSC store.
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The three people that I talked to had neither heard of nor seen a sump pump stand like the one that is linked to above.
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Should tile floors be cleaned with vinegar only? Is the advice against using other solutions a myth? After we had ceramic tile installed at our house, the company said we should just clean with vinegar and water mixture. However, I haven't been able to find anywhere online that says that using Pine-Sol or other cleaning solutions (like Swiffer sprayer thing) damages the tile. In fact, this is what the company says . Recommended “To Do’s” • Clean your new Flooring with a damp mop once a week or more, depending on the amount of traffic. Heavy traffic areas should be mopped more often than once a week. • Use an all-purpose, non-oil based household or commercial cleaner. Ensure that the cleaner is compatible with the grout cleaner recommendations in the maintenance and protection section. You can also use a cleaning solution of one cup of white vinegar to two gallons of tap water. • Cleaning spills off of Porcelain & Ceramic Flooring is generally easier than other types of flooring. The entire area should be cleaned and scrubbed with a cleansing solution using a cotton mop, cloth, sponge or non-metallic brush. The entire area should then be rinsed with clean water to remove any residue left on the Flooring from the cleaning solution. • Sweep or vacuum your tile Empire Flooring prior to mopping to remove any dust or debris. Recommended “Not To Do” • Use a detergent or soap because it may dull the surface and potentially promote the growth of mildew. Other Care Instructions • Routine cleaners used on your Porcelain & Ceramic Flooring should never contain acids or ammonia because they can discolor the grout and/or damage the grout and the glazed surface of the Flooring. • You should allow your new Ceramic Flooring and grout to set and dry for at least 72 hours after installation before damp mopping it. Of course, the cleaning agents claim they're safe on wood and tile (wehave both), but at the same time I don't want to damage the new tile.Anyone with tile experience actually know if the claim that using anything but vinegar and water is bogus? Update: Fixed question and title to better reflect original intent of the question. <Q> In the to-do section of the care instructions you posted, it suggests "Use an all-purpose, non-oil based household or commercial cleaner." <S> OR, it says, you can use vinegar/water. <S> I think you are over-analyzing. <S> The normal floor mopping solutions like Pine-Sol or a Swiffer will work fine. <S> Just don't use anything abrasive that will scratch the tile or an aggressive bathroom "tile/grout cleaner" that is meant to bleach and renew grout that is stained. <S> If you're concerned about a particular cleaner, you could always test a small section that is out of sight. <S> You can also apply a "grout sealer" solution over the grout lines. <S> This is tedious, but can help slow down staining of the grout. <A> It is actually a very effective cleaner for tile. <S> Ceramic tile is generally not porous, and porous natural stone tile is the only time you should be careful with vinegar. <S> I have installed and maintained ceramic tile for 10 years, and I have never had a issue with the vinegar/water cleaning solution. <S> Most tile cleaners are great if you have run of the mill white shower tile, but that is because they bleach out stains. <S> That is a bad thing for colored grout, and most installations of tile these days receive colored grout. <S> If you want to help with the vinegar smell of it, just add a couple drops of Almond extract to the gallon of homemade cleaner. <S> It won't discolor it, and the smell won't remind you of hot wings. :) <A> I saw where you could use vinegar and water with a few drops of lemon juice and a few drops of dish detergent. <S> I don't know if the Pine Sol would be considered oily or not <S> but I do love to clean with white vinegar. <S> We cleaned our grout with white vinegar and baking soda, a toothbrush and a bucket of water. <S> It looked amazing! <S> We then bought sealant from Lowe's and resealed the grout. <S> It looks beautiful! <S> I'm so happy with the results. <S> I hope this was helpful for you. <S> Happy cleaning!
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Stick with the vinegar/water cleaning solution.
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How do I remove a thick layer of paint from tiles? One of the previous owners of our new flat thought it'd be a good idea to paint the tiles in the toilet -- twice! We've been using a paint scratcher to remove the paint The problem: This takes too long (~120 tiles) and is tiring (as you need to use quite a bit of force and you take an inconvenient angle). Thus we tried chemicals: Hydrochloric acid (no effect at all), graffiti remover (worked a bit, but generally made things messier/stickier). I'm sure there is something we haven't thought of yet and gets the job done in a faster, less work intensive way. Uh, yeah, and how do I get the paint out of the seam? <Q> Try a heat gun, it will soften the paint and allow you to scrape it off more gently. <S> Be sure to follow instructions for proper ventilation and material safety especially if there's any possibility of lead paint. <S> However, unless you're particularly in love with those tiles, tearing down and re-tiling will likely give you a better result in less time. <A> You could use a proper paint stripper (with adequate ventilation). <S> Something along the lines of Turpentine usually works well. <S> For thick paint, the gummy/messy experience is not uncommon, as the upper layers have broken down while the lower hasn't. <S> Additionally I agree with the comment that re-tiling might be a more simple solution. <A> I used lacquer thinner and then scraping with a putty knife which didn't work that well. <S> I then used a single edge razor blade which works quite well, and to get the small amount of paint left <S> I used a Mr. Clean sponge dipped in the lacquer thinner. <S> Lots of scraping, but it works well. <S> It's lots of work <S> and I'm seriously thinking about replacing the tile.
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You can use the solvent to soften the paint and then scrape away what you can, and repeat until you're at the tile. Organic solvents are pretty nasty, make sure you observe all the safety precautions.
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How do I estimate how much drywall I'll need? Is there a formula for estimating how much drywall is required for a job? perimeter = 140' area = 490sqft I'm guessing around 45 12x4 sheets, but I would like to confirm my guess before ordering. <Q> So if you have 8' ceilings, those walls would be 1120 sqft themselves. <S> Add the 490 sqft for the ceiling would give 1610 sqft. <S> Then add in a factor for waste. <S> The less experience you have, and the more angles and corners you have to cut, the more waste you'll have. <S> I think 5% waste is on the low end for our projects, but we have lots of closets, halls, and inexperienced volunteers doing the cutting. <S> That would give you 36-38 sheets of 12x4 (1610 / 48 = <S> almost 34, with 5% waste you get 36, 10% waste gives you 38). <S> Also, if you don't have some experienced help, I'd go for the 4x8 sheets. <S> With experience and a lift, it's possible to do 4x8 sheets by yourself, but a 4x12 sheet is often a 3 person job (2 to hold, one to screw). <S> Just realize the 4x8 sheets will require more joints to mud. <S> If you go with 4x8 sheets, since they are 32 sqft each, you'd end up with 54-56 sheets. <A> Addendum to what BMitch said: you want the blue/purple drywall, not the green or white stuff. <S> Use a compatible joint compound and the nonorganic (usually green or yellow) fiberglass mesh tape. <S> My calculation technique is different. <S> I count by sheet that needs to be hung... <S> I measure out 8' om the wall or ceiling, then measure 4' from that, the. <S> Remind myself that I need to offset the next hang by 4', so if I'm hanging a room that's 9' in one direction, the second row is going to take 2 sheets. <S> I found myself shorting a lot if I used the math method, esp. <S> with rooms that have an odd angle (like a peaked or coffered ceiling). <S> Then add another 10% in sheets, rounding up... <S> More if you have a crew do it <S> and they get paid by how many sheets they hang, aka use. <A> Home Depot has a web site where you just enter the measurements, and they tell you how much drywall, nails, baseboard, etc you need for the job. <S> Drywall Calculator
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Add the area of the ceiling by the area of the walls and then factor in some extra for waste. Before you order, since this is a basement, if there's any mold or mildew risk, get mold proof drywall.
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How can I mount a 2" mast to the side of a utility pole? I need to mount a 2" diameter mast to the side of a utility/telephone pole and am having trouble locating a mounting solution/hardware that will work. My big problem is that I'm not sure what the name of such hardware is and that is making it tough to find using Google. Searching for "pole mount" just returns hits about mounting the pole itself, not mounting TO a pole. I've thought about using some kind of clamps around both poles, but ideally I'd like something that provides a little bit of offset between the poles. Maybe there is come kind of adapter hardware that would allow for a flush mount against a pole? Can anyone provide some advice for the name of the hardware you'd use for this, or just general advice on how to securely mount a mast to the side of a telephone pole with a bit of an offset and flushly? <Q> Try searching for "utility pole standoff bracket" and you'll find things like this Garvin bracket . <S> Also check if the Band <S> -It Company has something you can use. <A> Depending on the size of the pole, you might be able to use a chimney mount, which is straps that go around a solid object, or possibly a wall mount type if you can screw into the pole. <S> ChannelMaster sells a variety of mounts, but you can also find some at your friendly local Radio Shack, though the 2" requirement might be a problem, I think most of the antenna-type mounts will top out at 1.5". <A> I have one mounted to the wood siding on the side of our house with lag screws; you could probably do the same on a utility pole.
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Depending on the weight of what you are mounting on the pipe, you may be able to use something like this: Channel Master Universal Mount for Small TV Antenna .
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Can I cut or cover a sewer cleanout pipe in front of my house? I have a PVC pipe sticking up in front of my house, in a flower-bed area. It's 20 inches high and 5 inches in diameter. As I understand, it is a sewer clean-out pipe. It's rather unsightly and I've been wondering whether I can cover it or cut it to a shorter length. Obviously I don't want to prohibit access, but I've been thinking a hollow-bottomed bird bath might be ideal to put over it. What should I do with this thing? <Q> You will need PVC cement and primer, and a female pipe adapter (available at your local or big-box hardware store; measure your existing plug -- it looks like 4" in the photo). <S> De-burr the edge with a piece of course sandpaper or a file, and follow the instructions on the cement and primer to glue the adapter on. <S> Give it some time to set, replace the plug and backfill. <S> As @Scott mentions, measure where it is so that years from now when you need it, you will be able to find it. <S> If the sewer line runs through your basment, mark the location on or near where the pipe exists the house. <A> Paint it brown, green, or even camouflage. <S> Then, plant some taller decorative grasses around it. <A> Cut it off, even with the ground or below ground level. <S> Take some measurements from the corners of your house <S> so you know where it is when you need it. <A> You could just leave it alone... <S> I got fined $1500, and had to dig it up and replace it... for cutting mine down below 42 inches. <A> Many hardware stores and Nurseries have covers specifically for this purpose that can be ordered or purchased. <S> I had a $30 plastic dragon covering mine, but after it got stolen I went with a less noticeable man-made stone one. <A> Assuming that it's not that high in order to meet code or something, you could dig out around it, down to the pipe it's connected to, shorten the pipe so that the plug is below ground level (or even with it) and then get a plastic tub with a cover (I'm not sure of the technical term for it, <S> but like what your water meter sits in) and put that around it, then it's below ground but has a nice cover over it so that you know where it's at. <S> Something like this only round http://www.essentialhardware.com/national-diversified-113bc-standard-valve-box-with-cover-223251.html
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Dig out around the pipe to get enough room to saw it off near ground level (any sharp hand saw will work). If it needs to be above ground level (but not as high as it currently is) you could do the same thing just have the cover extend above grade.
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How should I encapsulate a basement wall with chipping paint on a porous surface? I have a basement wall with several layers of chipping paint. I can't say officially, but I'm pretty certain the bottom layer (dark green in the photos) is lead-based, while the upper layers are not. The other issues: the wall is not uniform (concrete block on top of fieldstone) we need to optimize for horizontal clearance -- we had to remove the old paneling in order to move anything large in and out of the basement I recognize the dangers of paint removal, and with the porous concrete block, chemical stripping isn't a viable option. At the end of the day, while I'm experienced at home renovation, I'm not a pro and I have a young child in the house. Here was my plan for encapsulation: Carefully wet-clean the surface Use tack cloth / duct tape to pick up loose chips Cover everything with Sherwin-Williams Loxon XP (masonry conditioner) Paint over that with ChildGuard (encapsulant) However, I found that the surface was in rougher shape than I hoped. Paint hasn't been flaking off, but duct tape can pretty easily remove bits, even after several applications to the same patch. And the fieldstone masonry basically turns into dust when you touch it. So what do I do? Is there any sort of skim coat that can bind to chipping paint? Should I go the route of thin furring strips and paneling? Honestly, I could care less how the wall looks, so long as I can put a coat of paint on it, I can get down into the basement, and I'm not putting my family at risk. Photos: The wall (upper) : The wall (lower) : Chipping paint : Uneven wall : <Q> If you follow the advice of others and use a wire brush to knock off the paint, be aware that the dust particles from lead paint are the main hazard. <S> There are some precautions on NY's DoH page that I'd recommend, including disposable coveralls, respirator, and goggles in addition to completely sealing the area from the rest of the home (remember the air vents). <S> If you want to cover the area, you can frame out the wall with thin wood slats or even 2x4's turned on their side. <S> Be ready to shim out each board <S> so they are perfectly vertical and align with each other (you don't want wavy drywall). <S> With concrete, there are moisture concerns, so use pressure treated lumber, a vapor barrier, and the foam separator. <S> In this case, I'd probably apply the vapor barrier to the wall first to lock in the paint and any dust. <A> If you have a 4 inch angle grinder ($40 for a base model), you can find a wire brush attachment for it at most big box home improvement stores. <S> Using that, while wearing safety gear of course, will take that paint off in a jiffy. <S> Elbow grease not required. <S> No matter what the "wonder paint" claims it can do. <S> Just strip it off, and address the moisture issue. <S> That issue will more than likely have to be addressed from the outside. <A> Get someone who does CO2 blasting with dry ice gun. <S> I have the same problem and <S> that is the best solution from all my research. <S> There are some mold and mildew removal contractors that do that <S> and they can take the paint right off. <S> They used this process on the Statue Of Liberty back in the 80's. <S> Does a fantastic job. <A> I'm guessing that it's not chipping as much as you have a moisture problem and the paint is coming off with the moisture migration. <S> I'd do what I could to remedy that first. <S> Then, I'd take a wire brush and get as much of the loose stuff off as I can. <S> Use a Shop-Vac with a HEPA filter to vacuum it all up to avoid issues with the lead paint. <S> Then I'd cover it all with a heavy-duty primer and paint. <S> This is actually what I've done with our basement laundry room. <S> Stuff like dry-lock or 'concrete conditioner' will likely be of little to no use as they typically need to be applied to virgin concrete surfaces. <A> Please, please do not use a wire brush to remove lead paint! <S> Lead paint should never be mechanically disturbed, unless you can wet it down and keep it wet during the entire process. <S> And even then, you should never use a power tool to remove lead paint. <S> The best way ( <S> and as far as I'm concerned, the only way) to remove this paint is using a good stripper like Peel <S> Away 1. <S> It will contain the lead paint completely and remove it easily. <S> I had two large basement concrete block walls that looked just like yours, and I was able to abate it with Peel Away. <S> Surprisingly, the stuff doesn't even smell that bad, although I would recommend using a respirator. <S> The disadvantage of using Peel Away on such an uneven surface is that the residue is difficult to clean off the surface after you've removed the paint. <S> I was able to clean most of it by using a garden sprayer and collecting the runoff with a tarp.
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Then install drywall on top, using mold resistant if you have any moisture issues in the basement. Painting over the peeling paint will not work at all.
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How can I get rid of gnats and other flies all over my house? We just moved to a new place and we're noticing that there is a lot of gnats and fruit fly type bugs all over the house! We've been killing 2 or 3 an hour and they keep coming back. We find them all over, not just in the kitchen. Is there any tips, tricks, products to get rid of the pests? I have a pregnant wife in the house, so harsh chemicals are a last result. EDIT: So... we just found the source of the flies... I got home from work to fine a Haz-mat team cleaning out one of the townhomes we share a wall with. Apparently the guy is a hoarder and had been hoarding things like empty whisky bottles and pizza boxes. The team had found human waste on the walls and rotten food throughout the house. The flies that were living there were so bad that the neighbor below him called the police about it. We only shared some pluming lines with him, they shared an air vent. SO GROSS!!! <Q> There are plenty of recommendations out there on the web, but I can't say how well they work. <S> I think the lifespan of a gnat is something along the lines of 15 days, <S> so you basically just have to remove their food source, and they'll be gone in 2 weeks. <S> Clean dishes quickly, keep everything clean, get rid of potted plants (they feed on the manure found in many types of soil that you might get for potted plants) or cover the top layer of soil with an inch of sand to prevent them from getting to the manure, look for any dead animal bodies (rats, lizards, birds, etc.) <S> I've also seen ideas for traps, which supposedly work pretty well, but just because you catch some, that doesn't necessarily mean that you'll get rid of their breeding grounds. <S> The basic idea is that you take a cup and put 1" of vinegar and one drop of dish soap in it, then cover it with something that resembles a funnel (curl up a piece of paper into a cone shape and cut the tip off.) <S> They'll be able to fly in because the funnel will guide them downward, but they won't be able to get out so long as you seal between the lip of the glass and the funnel <S> (maybe fold it back down on the outside of the glass and secure it with rubber bands. <S> Like this: <A> We have a small fruit fly problem in August each year. <S> We deal with it using a paper cone trap as described by @Michael (see my comment), keeping the lid on the compost pail and emptying it often, and making sure overripe or bruised fruit doesn't sit rotting in the fruit bowl indefinitely. <S> But one year it was awful, really really bad, and I did some searches and learned that they often grow in a slimy biofilm in a drain. <S> I checked all the sinks and sure enough one of them (A guest bathroom near the kitchen) had a nasty slime growing in it. <S> The fruit fly problem went back to normal almost immediately. <S> So check your drains and get a bottle brush. <S> It takes only minutes to clear the film, and then you go from unbearable to " <S> yeah, sometimes at this time of year there are fruit flies" which is just part of life. <A> I made homemade flytraps myself. <S> I took a jar and poured some syrup in it and sat it down <S> and it's simple and it worked. <S> Then I got a coffee cup lid and poured some dish soap in it and sat it by the window which is also simple and easy <S> plus it works too! <S> You just have to check it every now and then. <S> When it gets full, just dump it out and put some more in it and set it back down. <S> Hope that helps(;
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I used hot water and a bottle brush to scrub it all away.
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I need to get up on roof anyway, so what should I inspect while I'm up there? I noticed a filthy tree rat (squirrel) poking its head out from a hole in my gutter leaf guards today. Gotta get up on the roof to clean and repair that mess. Since I'm two stories up already, what else should I inspect while I'm up there? So far I can think of: Gutters - clean and soundly attached Roof openings - all vents attached properly, sealed well, etc. Chimney - chimney cap attached and in good repair, good seal where it meets the roof Trim - check for peeling paint, rot, etc. Pests - check for insect damage, check for varmint holes General survey of my yard - Might spot something from high up that I can't see from the ground What else should I look for? Anything specific to the roof shingles I should look for? <Q> On shingles, look for shingles that might be broken, cracked, or missing, that are curled (no longer flat), and any that have lost their stone coating. <S> The last two are important; this is the first sign of an impending roof failure and that your entire roof will shortly need to be replaced. <S> If it is not, it is time to replace either the flashing with a lead one, or replace the flashing and seal unit with a new one. <S> If you have roof turbines, make sure that they spin easily without noise. <S> The bearings in these are sealed; they will need to be replaced if they do not spin easily. <S> These need to be sealed with either an elastomeric roof sealer or "3 hour" silicone caulk. <S> Don't try to pound them back in. <S> If you have a chimney, make sure that the cap/spark arrestor is firmly attached and is not rusted out. <S> Remember that water MUST be able to flow down and out of things, so if you seal anything, seal around the top sides. <S> You cannot seal, for instance, a dormer window where the siding meets the roof deck. <A> Check the ridge tiles - assuming you have them - make sure they're properly fixed on. <S> For slate and tile roofs they should be cemented. <S> Not sure about shingles. <S> Check the flashings where the roof meets any brickwork rising above the roofline. <S> This will be chimney stacks, dormer windows and occasionally parapets. <S> If it can get stuck it will build up and potentially overflow the flashing and enter the brickwork. <S> This will cause water damage elsewhere in your house and can be hard to track down. <A> Any attached worn, frayed or fatigued wiring such as cable TV, phone or electrical supply. <S> As always around electricity, be careful.
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Look for nails that have popped up through the shingles, or loose nails on flashings. If you have rubber seals around your vent stacks (between the metal flashing and the stack itself, make sure that the rubber is still pliable. Check that there's no build up of leaves and other crud in gulleys and against brickwork so that no water can get caught up there.
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Will gently hammering thumbtacks into my wall help them stay better? So I'm thinking about fake-upholstering a wall in my bedroom in my apartment to create a focal wall without having to paint. I don't want to drill holes 'cause I'll be moving out of there in like 9 months, so I figure I'll just thumbtack the fabric to the wall, hiding the tacks. Would hammering in the thumbtacks/pushpins into the wall gently help these thumbtacks stay in the wall better? If not, what will? I know that not moving or re-tacking the thumbtack will help it stay, but any other suggestions would be awesome. <Q> The thumb tacks will hold best if they go straight in to the wall without wiggling. <S> If they move back and forth as they're going in, they'll create a larger hole from which they could more easily be pulled. <S> If you can push the tacks all the way in without side to side movement without using a hammer, then there's no advantage to using one. <S> If the hammer allows you to push them in more easily, push them in straighter, or if you can't push them in all the way without a hammer, then the hammer would be better. <A> A better option might be to use some small picture-hanging nails with a washer. <S> The whole it leaves is slightly bigger than a thumbtack, but still easy to patch up, and <S> because it's longer, it will hold better. <S> You should hammer it in <S> so it's going into the wall at a downward angle. <S> You may need to stack a couple washers, getting bigger in size, in order to have enough area to hold the fabric (really, it depends on the weight- <S> just need to use your best judgement). <S> The more nails you put in, the less weight each individual one holds, but of course the more holes that will have to be fixed later. <A> Sounds like a good project! <S> Try coating the part of the thumbtack/nail that will be in the wall with glue. <S> A small amount of glue will fill fissures and allow the shank of the tack/nail to better hold by bonding with the gypsum in the Sheetrock. <S> Since you will be wanting to remove the tack/nail at a future date, select a glue that is not too strong like a super-glue, but one that will still adhere to both the metal shank and the gypsum in the wall. <S> I suggest looking at glues like Elmer's Glue ProBond Advanced; it is designed to attach porous materials like drywall and non-porous materials like metal. <S> Remember that the friction of the wall against the shank will push excess glue toward the head. <S> A few test applications will give you the right amount of glue that will help hold while not getting onto the back of the thumbtack's head. <A> If it requires a hammer to get into the wall, then hammer away. <S> Be sure hammer straight to avoid bending the tack. <S> To do this, take a pretend swing and look at where your hand is when you would hit the tack. <S> If your hand is so far away from the wall that the hammer shaft isn't parallel to the wall, then you'll bend the tack (or nail) when you hit it. <S> Quick tip: make sure you have something under the tack that won't tear when you pull it so you can easily remove the tack with a tug. <S> Otherwise, you'll have touch-up work to do when you move out after lots of failed attempts to pry out the tack. <A> The top of the fabric might be too heavy for thumbtacks to support. <S> You might have to find the studs using a stud-finder, and then use a nail sort of like these tar paper/roofing tacks (which are like oversized pushpins) to affix the top. <A> An addition to the glue suggestion. <S> Since you will eventually be covering the tack heads with your wall covering, a suggestion is to create a tack strip. <S> Using a very thin strip of plastic, paperboard (like a cereal box), or cardboard; place glue on the back of the thumbtack heads and push them through the strip. <S> This will distribute the weight of the covering across the entire length of the strip, allowing the thumbtacks, or brad nails, to hold more weight and be more effective.
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If you can get the tack into the wall with just the force of your finger, then hammering may very well do more damage.
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How can I repair screws in furniture with stripped holes? I'm trying to repair a piece of furniture from which several screws have pulled out, stripping the wood. It's a lift top coffee table, such as this . (This is NOT the model in question, this just seems like a good picture to explain the idea.) The screws in question mount one side of the lift mechanism to the table body. What concerns me is the lift frame mounts underneath the cross-member of the table; so the screws go upward through the metal frame into wood. So... Any fix will have to support half the weight of the table surface. The cross-member the screws go into is about 1" thick, so longer screws won't work; they'd hit the underside of the table surface when it was lowered. I've looked at How do I rehang a wooden door with worn screw holes? for ideas; and I'm concerned these ideas won't work for me considering the direction of force and required shortness of screws. So, I'm first asking how much weight a toothpick repair solution could support. Am I being pessimistic? What other ways can I repair this table? I can't simply re-mount the lift assembly shifted 1"; the table would look strange when closed. I've thought about drilling through the cross-member and replacing the screws with bolts; but I would also need to drill/chisel pockets in the underside of the table surface to allow the table to close over the bolt heads. Is there a less invasive solution? <Q> Apply a good wood glue to the dowel and tap it into the clean drilled out hole. <S> After the glue has dried, flush cut and sand the dowel smooth to the wood surface. <S> Now drill a small pilot hole and re-install your screws. <S> This should give you a strong permanent fix. <A> You took the wind out of my sails with that last paragraph. <S> I was going to suggest using a nut/bolt. <S> As far as it causing problems when the tabletop is lowered, you can recess the bolt head. <S> Yeah, you could make the cavity in which the bolt will stay on the underside of the tabletop, but maybe you'll drill too far or crack/scratch the tabletop if you chisel it out. <S> It could end badly... <S> which is why you should instead house the bolt head on the top-side of the cross member. <S> Brown = table topBlack = <S> underlying cross member <S> The one on the left is what you were talking about. <S> The one on the right is what you want to do. <S> Also, use a washer under the bolt head, etc. <A> Put the screws in with construction adhesive like PL Premium or a "5 minute epoxy" type superglue. <S> You obviously will no longer be able to unscrew these screws, but they will never, ever come loose again. <A> Johnny is correct. <S> A proper PVA wood working glue like TiteBond is stronger than the wood itself, as long as one or both of the joints aren't end-grain. <S> For end-grain to end-grain butt joints ONLY, a polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue is stronger (but a mess).
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Although similar to the tooth pick trick, a real good and solid fix it to drill out the stripped hole to a size 1/32 inch smaller than a piece of hardwood dowel.
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Is it safe to flush expired food down the toilet? Let's not discuss the economics of this - the fact is that it sometimes does happen. I don't think food is physically that different from "poop" (especially certain types of it) <Q> Depends on the type of food. <S> Just because it will "go down," that doesn't necessarily mean that it's ok to flush it. <S> Grease is a rather popular example. <S> Unfortunately I don't know that anyone has compiled a list of all foods that will clog your pipes or otherwise damage your plumbing, but here's a start: Oil and butter <S> Mayonnaise and sour cream Cheese <S> Sauces and dips <S> Salad dressing Cake frosting Pie dough <S> Gravy Turkey and chicken pan drippings <S> Fat remaining on plates from BBQ’d steak <S> http://www.elocalplumbers.com/blog/clog-prevention-tip-5461 <S> Grains also aren't good, as they will expand as they soak up water. <S> If you want a safe place to dispose of a little extra food, imo, toss it in a bag and make a trip to a convenience store. <S> Toss it in the trash, go in and buy a soda. <S> The food that would've stunk up your trash can is gone, your toilet isn't clogged, the convenience store guy is happy to have your business, and you're drinking a soda. <S> Life is good. <S> :sunglasses: <A> In case of food it's anything that has bones - they are mineral and don't degrade and can cling to some ledge in the piping and then stuff will start collecting there <S> and you've clogged pipes in no time. <S> Then you should abstain from flushing huge pieces of hard food. <S> Anything thicker than about 3/4 <S> the cross-section of piping can collect and lead to clogged piping. <S> Finally watch out for the list that user Michael provides in his answer <S> - it's quite reasonable and stuff mentioned there can pose mild to serious risk for piping. <S> Also it is very important to flush thoroughly so that stuff doesn't collect in horizontal piping close to your toilet. <S> If it collects it can start consolidating and attaching to pipe surfaces and this will lead to a clog much later. <S> That said you should think twice before flushing. <S> Most of the times you can just throw it into trash. <S> The risk of abuse that would lead to a clog is not very high, but real and you won't like the consequences. <A> It's best not to put anything in the septic tank other than feces or urine, a monthly dose of Rid-X (not meaning to endorse any specific product) is beneficial. <S> For a public sewage system I'd say it's OK to flush uneaten/expired food into the system- <S> it's not a closed ecosystem as a septic tank is. <S> BTW: Cigarette butts still have nicotine which was (is still) used as a pesticide- <S> so don't flush those into a septic system either- <S> it kills the necessary bacteria. <A> Many municipalities are now offering compost collection service (in Hamilton, ON we have a 1 trash bag/week limit, composting is a major part of our waste diversion). <S> This is really the best answer for spoiled/waste food. <S> If your municipality doesn't offer it, you can consider your own composter. <S> With that said, Sharptooth's answer covered it well. <S> From a waste treatment point of view I think you're ok, but try to avoid overly solid objects ( see this for an idea why ). <S> From a pipe safety point of view, Michael's answer is pretty good, but I don't encourage making your trash problems someone else's. <A> Meh; done it for years and it hasn't clogged my toilet up yet. <S> Obviously use some sense with what you're flushing: don't flush a chicken leg down and expect it to not clog, and I don't advise it on a sewer tank, but anything non solid should be fine. <S> I've flushed old spaghetti meat sauce just recently <S> and if you have a garbage disposal unit it's just slicing your food up before it goes down the drain <S> so there won't be an issue of build up. <S> Because of the frequency of times you flush water and toilet paper to the times you flush food it would rinse it out eventually.
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First of all, you should abstain from flushing down anything that doesn't degrade.
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How do I eliminate stagnant water caused by central A/C draining outside? So I just moved into a new house in NC that I am renting. The house has central A/C which is great, but because there is no basement so there is no basement drain. So the A/C expels the water into the backyard. The place where the water is expelled from the A/C creates small stagnant pool of water which is making for a heck of a mosquito problem. I could fill in the hole, spread the water out, and that will be fine in the short term. This issue will continue unless I can think of a solution. The hose that expels the water is near to the ground, so a sizable rain barrel seems out of the question. <Q> Start by digging a hole about 12-18" deep (depending on your soil), Next fill the bottom of the hole (about half the hole) with crushed stone (loosely compacted). <S> Fill the rest of the hole to about 1" from the top with sand, then finish with a nice decorative stone. <S> If the soil is typically very moist (i.e. you get a lot of rain), you can skip the sand and fill the hole all the way up with crushed stone, and then top with decorative stone. <S> Another option would be to top the hole off with something like this <S> So you'll follow the same procedure as above, but rather than filling the second half of the hole with sand/stone <S> you'll put in a drain pipe like this. <S> The whole idea here is to have the water leach into the ground, without forming a puddle where mosquitoes and other things can breed. <S> If you do this and still find that the water is pooling, you'll have to take more drastic steps. <S> The best option from there would be to install a French Drain, and connect the drain line from the AC unit to it. <S> There are already some questions that deal with french drains, so if it comes to that you should have no trouble finding out how to do it ( how do i build a french drain ). <S> You could also buy a small leach pit, but this might be overkill for your situation. <S> You'll bury this in the ground surrounded by 3/4" - 1 1/2" crushed stone, then connect the AC unit drain to the lower inlet pipe (the upper pipe is a vent). <S> Before you drop it in the hole, remember to remove the small hole knockouts (to allow leaching). <S> This will require a larger hole, and again may be over kill for your situation. <A> Where the line comes out of the AC unit, there should be a trap like you'd have under your sink, and a removable cap above the trap. <S> Open the cap, and put a little bleach in there. <S> That should kill whatever is growing and hopefully avoid any mosquito issues. <S> You'll want to do this periodically to keep the line from blocking anyway. <S> How often depends on your area. <S> I do it yearly, but the trap drains indoors. <S> I've heard others do it every month. <S> No need to dump the whole bottle in, my goal is to fill the trap without losing too much bleach down the drain. <S> Edit: For those paranoid about bleach going outside, hot water and vinegar is an option, but I'd up the quantity to several cups to really flush the line. <S> Just keep in mind that if you don't keep this trap clean, then anything growing in moisture outside will eventually be growing inside, clogging the trap, or worse. <S> The story I heard was someone that foolishly ran the drain into their septic system, some deadly bacteria ran back up the line, into the home, and killed the home owner in a period of months. <S> Given the choice, I'll go for the 1/4 cup of bleach. <S> Finally, for the hole caused by the drain outside, fill it with sand and cover with gravel. <S> I don't think the mosquitoes will go digging to get to the water. <A> Bleach can damage your pvc pipes and apple cider vinegar will attract fruit flies. <S> Pour in a cup or two of white vinegar, let it sit for 5 min., then pour in a gallon or two of hot tap water - <S> this should clean out your drain pipes safely. <S> Still might kill plants near the drain exit.
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You'll want to create a small leach pit, which will allow the water to drain into the ground. Stick with white vinegar only to clean out your ac condensation drain pipes.
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How do I cut Semi-Rigid Aluminium Ducting? I wish to cut the duct work without damaging my hands or my wife's kitchen scissors. So what tool should I be using? (Trying to get the ends squared using a freehand hacksaw does not look easy.) <Q> Leather gloves and safety glasses. <S> Wide rubber band wrapped around the duct at the position you want to cut (a wide band stays in position better than a narrow one). <S> Leave a little extra to allow for smoothing out any irregularities at the end. <S> Permanent marker to mark the line you'll be cutting along. <S> Hacksaw <S> to start the cut. <A> A note on tin snips, which I suggest for this task: if you have a hard time cutting a straight line, make sure you have the proper style. <S> Look for one that is angled up and possibly to the side. <S> Long cut versions (with longer cutting blades) are good for smooth straight cuts in things like siding. <S> But most importantly is the color of the handle. <S> Typically, yellow will cut straight, green will cut a curve to the right, and red will cut a curve to the left. <S> For short cuts on thin material, the effect is minimal, but if you want a straight cut around the tube and the metal is somewhat stiff, you'll have a difficult time if you don't have the straight cut version. <S> For more details, there's the wikipedia article on snips, particularly the compound action section. <A> Aviation sheers can be tricky to cut straight if you're not used to dealing with them. <S> What you might want to look for instead are tools called 'nibblers'. <S> They take out a section of metal, maybe 1/8" to 1/4" (cutting it twice). <S> It can be a little bit slower as they don't cut a lot in each squeeze, but because you don't have to force the opening large enough to fit the tool through, you can get a much straighter cut. <A> It probably depends on the location and how much room you have to work with. <S> I'd try using a jigsaw with metal blade or tin snips to start with. <A> Cheap but won't give a very straight edge: tin snips Expensive but will give a very straight edge: band saw I've cut aluminum rail with a miter saw (equipped with a special blade, of course,) but never rigid aluminum ducting. <S> I'd imagine that it would work great, but finding the correct blade might be difficult. <S> I've never tried a rotary tool. <S> I'm sure it would work, but I doubt it would work well. <A> A reciprocating saw with a stubby metal blade works great. <S> Make sure you clamp the workpiece down or get a friend to hold it. <S> A long blade will bottom out on the inside and bend, so watch the blade length.
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With the line marked, it's easier to keep the cut square, but you could also use a pair of tin snips to complete the cut. An offset handle helps keep the material from digging into your knuckles. File to smooth out the cut end and make it square if you've got any irregularities.
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What is the difference between mold in air duct and mold that grows in crawl space? Specifically, are they both dangerous to human health? <Q> There are thousands of species of mold known to Science, with different species being found in different parts of the world. <S> There isn't any one "crawlspace" mold or "air duct" mold, it's just whatever spores of whatever species happened to take a foothold there. <S> In general, though, you're better off not having them growing in your home because even if you don't have a really dangerous one growing now , you obviously have the right conditions for mold <S> so a dangerous one <S> could start growing too. <S> For more information, have a look at this Wikipedia article on Mold health issues <A> Mold detection and identification can be done in two ways. <S> Visible mold can be collected on a test tape, and air borne spores can be collected with an air sample kit. <S> Either way, samples must be sent to a lab for microscopic inspection and ID. <S> Mold and mold spores can range from common everyday varieties that rarely have negative effects on humans to very toxic species that can cause serious illness. <S> Most common molds are classified as irritants and the effects will vary depending on how sensitive the people who contact it are, or if they have allergies or other respiratory conditions. <S> In probably 90% of the tests I send to the lab, the results come back as mild irritants. <S> In some cases, especially in moldy walls or floors around bathroom fixtures where leaks have gone unmitigated, Black mold is common and this is dangerous if spores are allowed to go airborn. <S> I repeat, however, the only reliable way to identify dangerous molds is to have samples analysed by a professional lab. <A> As has been said, there are thousands of species of mold, and determining exactly what you may have, and whether it's dangerous in general, is a job for the pros. <S> If you are sensitive to mold spores, whether through allergies, asthma or respiratory disease, or you have a suppressed immune system due to cancer treatment, autoimmune disease or HIV, it doesn't matter what species of mold it is, or how much there is; they're all bad. <S> That said, you will not find a house more than a few years old that you could do a standard air screening of and find zero mold. <S> Mold is a natural consequence of human habitation and a terrestrial habitat. <S> You can only minimize it. <S> To do so, simply understand that most harmful molds need three things; water, simple organic material (like the paper in drywall, or food wastes, or the nutrients in soil), and low light levels. <S> You usually can't reduce the organic component or the light levels unless you want to remove all the drywall from your home (not a great look), but you usually can control the moisture element. <S> Run the A/C in your home (and make sure it drains properly). <S> Make sure all plumbing is watertight and leak-free. <S> Clean up spills immediately. <S> Check your basement or first floor for any signs of water or water damage (softened wallboard, peeling or bubbling paint, and cracked or crumbling mortar or brickwork <S> are all bad signs)
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Which one is more dangerous will depend on the particular species of mold and the sensitivity of the people that are exposed to it.
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What's a good way to support a freestanding chimney? I'm working on adding a woodstove to a yurt. The chimney will go out a sidewall and then head up. There is not a good way to brace the chimney to the yurt itself. Here are some options I've read about, but don't know how to judge: Use a pair of 4"x4" treated posts. Bed them in the ground in concrete. This is what the yurt manufacturer recommends: Build a wooden frame to support the chimney. Pairs of 2"x6"s joined in L-shapes as the corner. Attached to a poured concrete footing w/ 2"x6" treated "sill plates". Could be covered with sheathing & siding. Build a masonry column to support the chimney, like this: Put a metal pole in the ground, strap the chimney to it. Not sure what kind of pole, or size. Here are some pictures of this: Any other suggestions? <Q> My first inclination would be to install a concrete footing 3 or 4 feet deep by maybe 1 1/2 to 2 feet square. <S> Put a concrete block or paver in the bottom of the hole to support the pipe. <S> Plumb the pipe (2 or 3 inch galv should work well) with some temp 2X4 braces, then pour concrete into your hole. <S> Be sure to crown the top of the footing a little so water will drain off and not pool around the pipe. <S> The reason I like a large footing is to supply good ballast and avoid any frost heaves.(if you get ground freeze in WA.) <S> Also, don't forget to put a cap on the top of the pipe so water will not fill the pipe. <S> You may also want to paint the pipe with Rustoleum before attaching the stainless straps to the flue. <S> This will help avoid any reaction from dislike metals in contact with each other. <A> I,too am dealing with the same situation. <S> The side where my stove pipe opening is, is actually 12' off the ground-the yurt is on a slope. <S> So I am doing a combo of suggestions. <S> Cement is poured, I will use a 4x4x16' post anchored in that cement. <S> Then I will use 2 more 4x4x16' post to create a triangle. <S> They will be buried in the ground about 1'. <S> They will be closest to the yurt. <S> I have a lot of wind where I am and given how high up it will be <S> I want additional support at the top. <S> I will post pics when I am done. <S> Corina <A> We have a house that is one storey in places and two storey in others. <S> The chimney is freestanding above the first storey. <S> Recently we added a second-storey room, and had to extend the chimney so it was enough above the new roofline. <S> This meant about 13 feet of freestanding. <S> You can see <S> it's well connected and footed at the base. <S> We were required by code to add a "saddle" that braced it back to our roof. <S> Here you can see them working with a mockup: <S> The real brace went back with a flat line, not that angle as the mockup. <S> The masons built the chimney with flat spots to make it easier to caulk the saddle. <S> Eventually the saddle was finished just like the roof, including vents. <S> Here it is in progress: <S> Your saddle would probably be very similar.
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Then above the T part of the chimney I will create a square frame with 2x4's attached to the triangle to support the chimney.
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If polyurethane is not food safe, why is it used on dining tables? Why do online sites say that polyurethane isn't food safe, and is there some way I can use it on my kitchen worktop and still be safe? I don't prepare or store food directly on it or use it as a cutting board. I have it sealed with shellac now, but it's just not cutting it near the sink. <Q> According to FDA regulations , the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. <S> Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. <S> If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. <S> Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. <S> As you've found, shellac is not an appropriate choice for an area that will get wet frequently. <S> However, you will not have any problem applying polyurethane over the shellac. <A> When I looked into this question in the past, I reached the same conclusion as JayL, plus one additional handy rule: <S> If I can smell the finish at all, it is not completely cured yet. <S> So when my thinned poly coats feel cured to the touch, I lean in and take a deep breath. <S> Usually there will still be a faint whiff that lasts up to a couple more weeks. <A> This article says it is food safe only after it is fully cured. <S> According to finishing expert Bob Flexner, all finishes are food-safe once they have cured. <S> Polyurethane varnish does not present any known hazard. <S> However, no finish is food safe until it has fully cured. <S> The rule of thumb for full curing is 30 days at room temperature ( <S> 65- to 75- degrees F).
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Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board.
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Can I lay down solid wood planks on top of my basement concrete floor? I live in Oakville, Ontario and have a detached home with an unfinished basement with concrete floor. I would like to put hardwood flooring in part of the basement. Instead of tongue and groove floors, can I lay down mortar and then solid wood planks (1 in. thickness, 8 ft. length) on top of the concrete to get the hardwood flooring? What do I need to be aware of / careful about? Any tips / suggestions (moisture control, securing, home resale value) would be greatly appreciated. <Q> Yes, <S> but . <S> There are so many issues with putting wood flooring at or below grade that I never like to see it done. <S> The main issues are that wood swells with humidity, and humidity varies with seasons and other situations like rainfall. <S> Most people think that their foundations are moisture-proof, but that is absolutely untrue with any masonry product, especially concrete. <S> So the first thing you're going to need to do is a moisture content test on your concrete. <S> These can be purchased at a hardware or flooring supply store, and you can send the test off for $10 US or so to a lab. <S> The next thing you have to determine is how to affix it. <S> Around here in Texas, with slab-on-grade construction being most common and cellars being relatively uncommon, it's most likely to be affixed with construction or flooring adhesive. <S> The main problem with affixing it this way is that it does not allow the wood to flex, expand, or contract without breaking loose from the adhesive or potentially cracking boards. <S> I have seen some flooring installers in the Great White North (as we refer to the land you come from) who put down several inches of rigid foam insulation covered with a tongue and groove plywood product and affix the wood flooring to that. <S> I would research that option -- I have no idea what it takes and if it's practical for your home, but I know that it would remove some of the height from your basement. <S> With a father who's 6'4", and a best friend who's 6'7", that would be of concern to me. <S> The last and final thing you need to consider is what you're going to do if your basement ever floods. <S> Wood floors are ruined by flooding. <S> Rooms that are below grade are prone to flooding either due to rising water tables or infiltration from above, including from inside the home. <S> Instead of hardwood, I would strongly recommend that you look at ceramic tile that is designed to emulate hardwood flooring. <S> It will provide the look that you're seeking without all of the problems. <S> With an in-floor heating system, it could also provide <S> the <S> feel that you're going for at a lower end-cost than wood flooring. <A> Wood should not touch concrete. <S> Concrete is a porous substance; it will absorb water and then release it into whatever it touches. <S> If that is wood, the wood will mould and eventually rot. <S> For this reason, your better contractors will advise against putting down hardwood directly over concrete. <S> The hardwood floor suppliers will say there are ways to make it work, and there are, but none are ideal. <S> If you're going to do it anyway, here's the process. <S> First, thoroughly level, clean and seal the concrete. <S> Then, lay down a layer of breathable moisture barrier like Ty-Par or Tyvek. <S> This barrier will prevent the transfer of liquid water, but will still allow air (and the water vapor it carries ) to permeate it, allowing the various strata to "breathe" and acclimate to changing temperature and humidity, which will prevent warpage. <S> Then, lay down a layer of 3/4" plywood. <S> Secure the plywood to the slab with powder-actuated fasteners or concrete nails. <S> Then, lay down another layer of breathable moisture barrier, and THEN lay down your floor, making sure to follow all the general guidelines for laying hardwood anywhere else (3/4" gap between edges and walls, nine flooring nails per board). <S> DO NOT put hardwood in a basement. <S> Just don't. <S> And if the basement floods, you have a lot of expensive flooring that has to be torn up and replaced. <A> I just finished my basement (being no pro), and that is what I "should`ve <S> " done: <S> http://www.rona.ca/project/~building-subfloor-on-concrete-slab-1054_finish-basement_projects <S> I had to pour concrete to even-out the floor, which helped greatly, but I still notice some minors dips today. <S> Put a straight long level on the floor. <S> If you see more than .5 inch, reconsider installing on concrete. <S> Starting again, I would do the sub-floor on concrete + insulation <S> (I live in Montreal).
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Tile it, carpet it even, but in a below-grade installation, it will simply be infeasible to ensure that the concrete will get and stay dry enough to not affect the hardwood in the long term. This will be the base for the flooring nails, which are necessary to keep the floorboards tightly together to prevent squeaks. Instead I put some DeltaFX membrane (which acts as a humidity barrier and a air gap) with floating floor, but by concrete slab was uneven and had some dips, which were noticable stepping on the floor.
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How do I retrieve a detached plunger from a bathtub drain? I have an old bathtub drain assembly that is similar to this: As far as I can tell, the linkage broke off completely due to old age. If I unscrew the trip lever and cover, it's not attached to anything and I can't feel anything if I try to reach inside. I'm reasonably certain that the plunger is down since water doesn't drain from the tub. Is there an easy way to retrieve the plunger? I've tried using a pickup tool from harbor freight: This was unsuccessful after 30-40 minutes of trying. I really don't relish the thought of crawling under the house with our 8-legged friends and dismantling the drain. Any/all suggestions are welcome. =) <Q> Unfortunately, I think you're fixin' to go for a crawl with the crawlies. <S> (At least you have that option -- <S> the same task in my house would require a jackhammer.) <S> There SHOULD be a P-trap below the drain. <S> If you can get the tailpiece off of the bottom of the tub (unscrew the metal drain, then the tailpiece should pop out), you should be able to spear the plug. <A> I just had this problem this morning and searched online for a solution, which is how I stumbled on this page. <S> My lever would go up and down, but would not release the plug to drain the tub. <S> I took the lever mechanism apart and the plug was not attached. <S> I actually tried that same grabber tool <S> but it didn't work. <S> On a whim, I thought to try a using a c-hook, which I opened a bit more using a pair of pliers. <S> Then I wrapped the screw-end of the c-hook with string, and lowered it into the hole. <S> Somehow I hooked the plug on the very first attempt, and it pulled right out. <S> Before I reattached the fixture, I used the pliers to close the hook around the plug so that it didn't dislodge again. <S> Good luck! <A> Here's what I used to fish out the plug. <S> I got it on the 4 th try in about 15 seconds. <S> Piece of cake. <A> I just had the same problem, and what I did, is bought ZEP brand crystal drain cleaner (available from Home Depot or Lowe's). <S> Using a funnel again, pour some cold water down the tube (about 3 cups) <S> let it clean the crud out. <S> It does smell and burns your nose a bit. <S> Then run about a quart of water down the tube again to rinse it out. <S> Next use a grabber claw tool (available at auto parts stores) and just start grabbing. <S> I grabbed the linkage on the 3rd try. <S> Put the linkage back together <S> and you're done! <S> Cheers! <A> After 10-15 attempts, I snagged it enough to release a little water out of the tub. <S> After another five minutes I was able to dislodge the plug. <S> I took it all the way out and everything is now working properly. <A> I had the same problem and was able to suck the plastic stopper up through the overflow with a shop vac and then grab it with a pair of pliers to get it out. <A> The spring loaded pickup tool did not work. <S> However, a coat hanger about 20" long with a 1/2" bent hook at the end worked. <S> You need to stick the coat hanger down to the stopper and hook under the cross piece that the stopper rod is attached. <S> It can stick below the stopper and you need to keep plunging and pulling the coat hanger to free it. <S> You need to keep turning the coat hanger so that the hook lines up to hook under the cross piece on the stopper. <S> Took about 3 to 4 minutes. <S> Oh the stopper assembly was newly installed.
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Simply remove the overflow plate (2 screws) and pour some CRYSTAL drain cleaner down the overflow tube using a funnel. I had this problem and took a wire coat hanger, straightened it, then bent a little hook on the end of it.
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Why has my ceiling fan's speed become slower? We have owned a Minka Aire ceiling fan for about 4 years and it has been great overall; running for 24hrs a day. It has 3 settings and when we initially purchased the fan; the speed was noticeable and the air movement was as well. It now seems as though the highest setting is not much different then the middle setting. What would cause this and how can I get it back to where it was in terms of performance? It comes with a lifetime warranty on the motor; however I am not certain that the motor is failing here. In researching this it appears the cause could be the need to oil the motor; however I want to get verification from the community before I take on that effort. UPDATE: Manual rotation produces no shaking or wobbling, they move very smoothly. If you are not familiar with these fans they are fairly heavy duty, not in any way unstable as would a typical $49.99 fan be that was picked up from a local Home Depot. On occasion there is a humming that occurs, it is not consistent by any means and is fairly rare. In addition it will sometimes make a noise as though it is off kilter slightly, hard to describe. If I move back down to the medium setting, the noise subsides. Sometimes I will wait 10 - 15 minutes, turn it back to the highest setting and it functions as expected again, minus the overall speed. This is rare and will happen maybe once or twice a month. Keep in mind the fan runs non-stop, 24hrs a day. UPDATE 7/27/12: This issue still exists. It now appears that the fan operates at roughly the same speed across all three settings. The instances where it sounded as though it was slightly of kilter have not happened in many months. Any ideas what could be causing this? There is a lifetime warranty on the motor however the motor sounds fine, it's the actual speed that appears to be the issue. Should I simply replace it and move on or is there something I could to to potentially fix this myself? <Q> Late response, but posting this for people that happen to google the problem... was probably a bad fan motor capacitor. <S> You can find a replacement for a few bucks on amazon. <A> I'd start by checking for physical obstructions first. <S> For example... <S> What happens if you manually rotate the blades by hand? <S> Do they shake/wobble? <S> Do you notice any grinding or irritation? <S> When the fan is running do you hear any strange noises? <S> Grinding? <S> Clicking? <S> Humming? <S> Buzzing? <S> Knocking? <A> Since it is noticed that fan rotates at same speed across all three settings, it must be a regulator (control switch) failure. <S> Also you may confirm this by giving a direct supply to fan motor, avoiding speed regulator (controller). <A> The price of the fan has nothing to do with it. <S> You can buy a $400 lemon or a $40 beauty. <S> The problem is 'component drift' (techspeak for component values changing over time, drifting out of spec.) <S> Most likely a capacitor, as Matt says. <S> In this case a capacitor 'up there' inside the fan housing - the 'run' capacitor in techspeak. <S> If you know what you are doing, find it, measure it, and replace it if it doesn't measure true to spec. <A> If it's making noise then that's because of lack of oil in the motor. <A> I have had similar problems. <S> We have several ceiling fans in our house. <S> A mix of cheap and expensive. <S> The fans have one motor and no regulator. <S> The regulator on the wall controls the current being applied to the motor (variable amp control). <S> The more amps the faster the motor will run. <S> The less amps the slower it will run. <S> With an old fan I would check to see how freely it rotates if you spin it by hand. <S> There should be little to no resistance. <S> It any resistance is found there could be a problem with the fan itself. <S> So check the fan first. <S> If you are electrically competent change the wall controller. <S> If you are unsure about doing it yourself, get a contractor. <S> Bear in mind though, many electrical contractors charge a heavy hourly rate. <S> It may cost the same to replace the fan and the controller. <S> Talk with the electrician before making a decision. <A> Install a regular wall switch in place of the touch pad, remove the control module in the fan canopy, and wire the ceiling wiring directly to the fan wiring by passing/removing the control module.
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You may replace the fan speed controller. The slowness of the fan is sometimes cause by the capacitor, if it's running slowly without making noise.
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When pre-drilling for screws, how do you determine the correct bit diameter? Suppose I want to pre-drill for, say, a 5/16 screw. How do I determine the correct drill bit diameter? <Q> Here are some charts from Bolt Depot . <S> Bolt Depot is a handy resource, and has lots of information about all different types of fasteners. <S> Pilot hole size: Wood Screw Diameter: <S> **** <S> Major thread diameter <S> ** is measured on the outside of the threads. <S> * <A> Hold the shaft of the drill bit up in front of the screw. <S> You should only be able to see the threads of the screw (and maybe a bit of the screw). <S> If you can't see the threads the drill bit is too big. <S> If you can see too much of the screw, the bit is too small. <S> I hope this helps! <A> Here is my chart drawn up from over 30yrs onsite experience... <S> (sorry its in millimetres for those stateside!) <S> More detail here screws explained chart . <S> (NB based on UK/EU experience) <A> It depends on if you want it to be loose or not. <S> If you want it to be very loose (in the case of a bolt where you're going to have washers on both sides and a nut on the far side threads, then feel free to upsize by a fraction -- in this case, 6/16 or 3/8. <S> If you're using a screw where you want the threads to be firmly bedded, use the smallest drill bit you have in a soft material like wood -- and in harder substances like metal or concrete, a drill bit that is one fraction lower (e.g. 4/16" or 1/4" in this case). <A> Here is an option for metric Stainless self tapping screws <S> This is ideal as it show the different pilot diameters needed for differing thickness of sheetmetal and also steel vs aluminium Stainless Screws
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A real simple technique I use is to hold up the drill bit and the screw.
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What concerns should I have installing a HVAC unit and ducts in a home that's never had it? We're looking at a house in southern Alabama that has no central heating and air. I would like to put one in. The house was built in 1950. What should I be considering about the installation? <Q> The easy challenge is finding somewhere to install the internal half (blower and coils) of the unit. <S> You need to have space, access to service it, a place to run the lines to the outside unit, and power. <S> Power is typically 220, and will need a dedicated circuit, so you'll need to be able to run another line from the breaker panel and have enough additional capacity on the main breaker. <S> Finally, the largest challenge is running the ducts to each of the rooms. <S> In an older home, the joists will frequently be solid and cannot be cut to pass the ducts, so you are left with using the craw space beneath the home, attic space, or enclose them below the ceiling/along the walls. <S> One final consideration is that a home built this long ago without an hvac unit will likely have little insulation or weather stripping. <S> This means a lot of the energy used to get your home to the right temperature will go right out the walls. <S> To do this right, you could be looking at a situation with all of your exterior walls are opened up to insulate, windows are replaced to prevent drafts, and lots of interior walls and ceilings are opened up to run the lines. <S> Depending on the home, and especially the layout, it could be cheaper to buy a similar home that already has an hvac installed. <A> I'm in an older home, and the issues I've run into are all of what BMitch said -- difficulty to run ducts, and lack of existing insulation. <S> You might be recent enough to have insulation ... if not, they can cut into the top of the walls from the inside and blow in insulation, of take off siding and insert it from the outside. <S> You should also consider your current windows ... <S> if they're originals, they're likely single pane. <S> To deal with the ductwork issue, I've been considering using a 'ductless air conditioner' aka. <S> a 'mini-split', where there's an outside unit, but <S> you attach a unit into each room that's going to be cooled, and run a ~3" refrigerant line to the outside unit. <S> You can get 'em with as many as four zones, but if you need more cooling (eg, more extreme temps, which is likely for Alabama), or large rooms, you might only get 2 zones per outside unit. <S> All of the internal stuff then just mounts onto the wall, so you don't have to find basement, attic or living space to hide it all. <A> Retrofitting HVAC into a home requires all of the standard trades, and then some . <S> If your carpentry, pipe-fitting, metal-working, electrical and brazing skills aren't up to snuff, consider contracting it out. <S> In short, depending on the level of accessibility, basically the entire house gets torn apart. <S> That's what's known in the industry as, a can of worms . <S> Coring holes (in brick is no fun) to run power to a disconnect, line-sets to the condenser and the HE furnace exhaust <S> All but guaranteed: <S> existing electrical is in the way of ductwork (other pipes/obstructions likely) <S> One of the most difficult parts is finding out where to send up the trunk, to the upper floors (entails more investigative destruction) <S> Those who are pregnant and children less than 7yo, should be wary of the (lead) dust this process may create, especially in homes built previous to 1978.
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A spot outside with enough working space to fit the condenser; one foot clearance on all sides (length of line-set not to exceed 50', ideally) Sufficient capacity of load center and two (laterally adjacent) spaces for a 2-pole circuit breaker (ideally the furnace is also on its own dedicated circuit) New thermostat and wire, condensate drains, gas pipe and power to furnace Destroy parts of your house to install wall registers ( avoid floor registers if at all possible )
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Why are my ceiling fan light bulbs burning out quickly? My ceiling fan light bulbs burnout frequently. From what I can tell the fan is mounted well and does not oscillate more than I would expect it to. I use GE multi-use soft white 40 watt intermediate light bulbs which are marketed for use in ceiling fans. Unfortunately, my local Home Depot does not carry any other bulb brands in this size. That said with the bulbs burning out so frequently it seems more likely to be another issue unrelated to the bulb themselves, but I am open to suggestions of others to try. What could be causing the bulbs to burnout frequently? YouTube video of my ceiling fan running on high . <Q> Does your ceiling fan wobble ? <S> See <S> How do I balance a ceiling fan? <S> Is your line voltage reliable? <S> An electrician told me once that he swears by 130V-rated bulbs. <S> If voltage surges a little, the 130V bulb will tolerate it better than lower-rated bulbs. <S> The rating is printed on the top of the bulb. <S> However, if this was the problem, you'd probably see it in other fixtures, too. <S> Line voltage varies because keeping voltage steady under varying load is very, very hard. <A> Have you considered compact fluorescent (CFL) <S> bulbs? <S> No moving parts mean no need to worry about vibration. <S> Admittedly, they're not the nicest-looking things that you can stick in a fixture, and the color balance may not be what you want. <A> I have the same issue with any intermediate base bulb. <S> I even tried not running my ceiling fan. <S> Same thing: one week <S> and they were burned out. <S> My suggestion is extreme but it's the best solution, and that is to change the light fixture to one that uses anything but intermediate base bulbs. <S> Don't beat yourself up trying to find out what is wrong like <S> say voltage or brand name or even fan wobble. <S> They are impossible to find anyway. <A> I have a ceiling fan with four sockets. <S> One socket would not work at all, and one caused a CFL light to flicker and hum when in use, and burn out in about a month. <S> I disassembled the fan to check the wiring. <S> Redoing the lamp wiring (5 white wires into a twist-on wire connector, and 5 black wires into another twist-on connector) was enough to get the non-working socket working again. <S> As for the flickering socket, I found the wiring to the porcelain socket was brittle, and broke as I was examining it. <S> I got a replacement socket for $5 at our town's older hardware store, and now that socket works without a hum. <S> This was my first ceiling fan wiring job, and took a full day from start to cleanup. <S> It will take a few months to see if this also results in light bulbs not burning out as often.
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Shaking a light bulb can break the filament.
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Are 5" thick filters for furnace/Central AC still available? My furnace/AC was installed about three years ago. It uses 16" X 25" X 5" filters. The problem is when I try to find a replacement at my local home center: at Lowe's, Home Depot, (you name it), I found only 1" or 2" thick filters (mostly 3M Filtrete ). I looked in many stores around my area, not just one. I also checked at my local Costco and Walmart but they have none: the associates told me that they didn't carry the filters anymore and that I may need to order them online. So, the question is: Are 5" thick filters still in use and available? Is it an uncommon size filter? Or do the thin filters have better performance? Additional Information: the filer that we are talking about is Honeywell FC100A1029. <Q> This creates a very high efficiency filter, but I don't think I've ever seen one this thick stocked in a store. <S> I'm sure you could resize the opening for a thinner filter, but if it was my choice, I'd order the thicker ones online. <S> The same thing happens in other places, e.g. high efficiency toilets have a larger flapper than what is typically stocked in stores, which will make getting replacement parts a pain. <A> I recently went to change the filter in my new furnace and saw that the installed one said it was 16" x <S> 25" x 5". <S> So I bought a 4" instead. <S> The thing is, it fit perfectly. <S> As it turns out, when I looked at the fine print on the old and new filters, their actual thickness was 4 3/8" in both cases. <S> One manufacturer rounded up to 5, the other down to 4. <S> I just wanted to add this in case <S> others weren't aware of this bit of oddness from the filter makers. <A> Huh, my Home Depot and Lowe's both carry the 3m Filters for Media Air Cleaners. <S> You can order them off of Amazon. <A> My Lowe's has 16x25x4" Filtrete media filters (for my own HVAC system) by the bucketload, but last time I was looking for a filter I didn't see a 5". <S> It may be a seasonal thing; usually the best time to do any HVAC maintenance is when your outside temps match your desired inside temp, so most HI stores stock up on those filters in the spring and fall, especially down here in Texas. <S> You shouldn't lose much filter area or efficiency this way.
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If you don't want to special-order a filter, you can probably make due with a 4" disposable media filter, and a 1" reusable plastic mesh filter on top of that (downwind of the media filter to let the disposable one catch the majority of the dust). The thicker the filter, the more area can be created within the filter by folding the filter materials into baffles. I also couldn't find this size at my local bigbox stores.
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Is connecting a 16A plug to 10A sockets for an electric water heater a problem? I had an electric water heater installed in my bathroom this morning. It uses a 16A plug but I only have 10A sockets in the bathroom (the only 16A in the apartment is high on the bedroom wall for an AC unit). I know the hardware store sells powerstrips that can take 16A plugs, and which have 10A heads. The largest is rated to 4000w. Would this be a safety hazard? If yes, can I just replace the socket in the wall or do I need to get the whole damn thing rewired back to the fusebox? ADDITIONAL INFO The heater's plug has a built-in fuse, the kind that pop-up and canbe reset, and says 10 mA on it. The heater offers 3 heating modes: 1000w, 1500w, and 2500w (the first 2 are individual heating elements, I assume) I have two breakers for the bathroom. One is dedicated to one outlet, the other to the lights and another outlet. Both are rated 230/400V 50Hz 6000w IEC 60898 GB 10963 <Q> It depends on the power rating of the water heater. <S> From an earlier question , I see that you live in China, so your electrical supply is 220 VAC/50 Hz. <S> That means that the maximum power draw on a 10 A circuit <S> is 2.2 kW <S> (220 V * 10 A). <S> In general, you should draw less to allow a safety margin, if the water heater uses more than about 2 kW <S> you should get it rewired because you'll be coming close to the maximum rating of that circuit. <S> Note: <S> I'm not even considering the presence of other appliances on that bathroom circuit (lights, electric razors, electric toothbrush chargers, etc.). <S> Based on the additional info in the question, if you only use the 1000 W and 1500 W modes on the heater, the existing wiring should be sufficient. <A> Usually the plug reflects what the wires can safely deliver. <S> Unless a qualified electrician looks at it and says otherwise I would assume it has to be rewired all the way back. <A> "Both are rated 230/400V 50Hz 6000w IEC 60898 GB 10963 electrical." <S> This is three-phase power. <S> Do you have a three-phase water heater? <S> If so, you're fine.
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If there's a way to prevent people from using the highest setting (like mounting the whole heater in a box where it can't be changed inadvertently), you should be OK. If not, it can be discussed further.
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How can I block or fill out a letterbox hole in my door? I have a letterbox in my front door that is never used, so I would like to remove it and fill the hole, preferably so it doesn't look like there was ever one there. Or insert something that fills the hole, like a steel plate or wood block. Does a solution for this exact problem exist? <Q> I don't think that there'll be something you can buy off the shelf for this. <S> so it fits snugly. <S> Fill the gap around the edge, sand and paint. <S> You may find it easier to make the hole a little larger to create a lip to give the plywood something to sit against. <S> If you make it flush and arrange the grain of the plywood to go the same way as the wood of the door it won't be very noticeable. <S> If you have a block of wood roughly the right size then use that. <S> Any gaps can be filled with wood glue mixed with sawdust to give a "woody" texture. <A> Unless you replace the door, there will always be a scar or some tell-tale sign that a letterbox once existed. <S> Trying to get a block of wood that fits and concealing it is going to be tricky and time consuming. <S> Rather than trying to fill in the gap, you may find it easier to leave it as an ornament consisting of two plates of wrought iron, sealed shut and separated by a thick layer of insulation. <A> Remove mail slot hardware. <S> Install a 12 inch by 3 inch push plate to cover the hole. <A> What height is the mail slot at? <S> I've seen some that are really low, that you'd be able to cover over with a kick plate after filling in the hole with something more substantial. <S> Also, an image of the whole door area would be useful, as there might be other treatments (eg, wood paneling, some decorative stained glass, etc.) <S> that could be blended in with the rest of the house <S> so it wasn't obvious. <A> Screw it to the door. <S> You can buy these for not too much money at the home center in a large enough size that it will span the hole. <S> Add some insulation in the hole first, at least if it gets cold outside during the winter. <S> As I said, that would be MY solution. <S> My wife would disagree. <S> She would insist on something that would simply disappear. <S> Sigh. <S> So my next choice would be to use a plate on each side that I could get paint to stick to. <S> A quick search for "kick plate" on Amazon shows many different ones, not all of which are shiny brass. <S> Some of those have a painted/paintable surface, so you could buy a pair of them, and then just repaint in a matching color. <S> This will be almost invisible. <S> If that too is still unacceptable, then I might look into filling the hole in with a body filler, then maybe use repair techniques involving fiberglass mesh tape and epoxy resin to span that hole solidly. <S> You would get a surface that can be sanded smooth, then repaint the entire door as if nothing was ever there. <S> This will take some work though. <A> The correct solution is to purchase a piece of wood ideally the same type as the door, cut it to size, coat the hole of the letter box with a thin veneer of exterior wood glue. <S> Gently tap the block into the hole. <S> Once the glue has set, if required plane or sand down the block to be flush with the rest of the door. <S> After which prep the whole door and repaint. <S> This way it will be almost to completely invisible when finished. <A> The soloution I used was to use a router to create a lip on the hole, then cut a block of wood to fit and glue it in place.
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As it might be tricky to find a block of wood the right depth it could be easier to insert a piece of plywood on the each side of the hole You can fill the void with some insulation. Were it my problem to solve, I would simply add a brass kick plate on each side.
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Is running ethernet cable through an air return allowed under US code? I'm looking to wire up the second floor of my house and the cold air return provides a convenient, straight run from the office to the utility room. Is it safe and within code to run ethernet cable in the air return? The air returns are not metal ducts, they are just open cavities in the studs. Scope of this question is purely limited to running network cable through an air return, decisions on wired/wireless and the various wired options have already been made. <Q> Looking in 2011 National Electric Code Changes of Interest , they reference NFPA <S> 90A-2009 : <S> Section 4.3.4 of NFPA 90A-2009 states that “Wiring shall not be installed in air ducts” unless it is “directly associated with the air distribution system and does not exceed 1.22m (4 ft).” <S> I don't have access to the full code, but just in the notes on the revisions to NEC 2011, they seem to allow CMP (plenum rated cable) in air ducts or "other spaces used for environmental air" based on the table on page 15, 'Applications of Communications Wires and Cables'. <S> All others must be in a raceway ... <S> other than CMUC (under carpet) or cables w/ power, which are both banned completely. <S> I'd personally ask a local inspector -- they're the ones who are going to know what the local interpretation of the codes are. <S> If you're running something that's not required to be inspected, I'd only run plenum rated cable -- the jacket won't give off toxic fumes if burned, so you'll have a chance at escaping a fire without being poisoned first. <A> National Electrical Code 2008 <S> 300.22 Wiring in Ducts, Plenums, and Other Air-Handling Spaces. <S> (B) Ducts or Plenums Used for Environmental Air. <S> Only wiring methods consisting of Type MI cable, Type MC cable employing a smoothor corrugated impervious metal sheath without an overall nonmetalliccovering, electrical metallic tubing, flexible metallic tubing,intermediate metal conduit, or rigid metal conduit without an overallnonmetallic covering shall be installed in ducts or plenumsspecifically fabricated to transport environmental air. <S> Flexible metalconduit shall be permitted, in lengths not to exceed 1.2 m (4 ft), toconnect physically adjustable equipment and devices permitted to be inthese ducts and plenum chambers. <S> The connectors used with flexiblemetal conduit shall effectively close any openings in the connection. <S> Equipment and devices shall be permitted within such ducts or plenumchambers only if necessary for their direct action upon, or sensingof, the contained air. <S> Where equipment or devices are installed andillumination is necessary to facilitate maintenance and repair,enclosed gasketed-type luminaires shall be permitted. <S> Which means, NO. <S> Mike Holt explains it well in this YouTube video . <S> If you read article 725, you'll see that it references back to section 300.22. <A> Yes, it is within code to run a low voltage wire inside an air return (aka plenum) in the US. <S> You'll even find cable that is "plenum rated" -- which means it has a lighter jacket on it -- <S> that is specifically meant for use in plenums where it's less likely to encounter sharp edges or be overly stretched during pulls. <S> (I'd still use normal cable, though, because pulling plenum cable, even through a plenum, is difficult unless you pull it in a large bundle with proper knowledge.) <S> Source: <S> NEC 2008: Chapter 7, Article 725
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The only wiring allowed in ducts, is wiring that is " necessary for their direct action upon, or sensing of, the contained air. ".
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What is the extra pipe going into my sump pump pit? My sump pump has been going off about every 3 minutes in the last 2 days. I need to open the pit to see why it is doing that. I'm unable to open the lid as I see another big pipe going into it. Please see the picture below (click for full size): 1) Does anyone know what is that larger pipe on the right going into the hole? I know the smaller one takes the water outside. 2) Also, how can I open the lid with that larger pipe in there? Do I just slide it up? I don't want to damage it and this is the reason for this question. 3) Finally, does the power plug look fine or do I need like another adapter before plugging it into the outlet? <Q> You have two questions here, First, I think the larger of the two pipes could be a vent pipe connected to a radon exhaust system. <S> Does this pipe connect to any other pipes or a box with a radon sensor? <S> Second item, the receptacle shown is a single use type. <S> Sump pumps will often nuisance-trip GFCI receptacles. <S> Much the same as a refrigerator is put on a single non-GFCI receptacle to prevent nuisance tripping, a sump pump or other motor loads are also put on non-GFCI circuits. <S> This is OK if the receptacle is a single use dedicated to the specific appliance. <A> 1) I know very little about sump pits, but I suspect it might be a vent. <S> Why it would need a vent when the smaller pipe penetration of the lid is beyond me <S> (redundant if it's there to prevent a vacuum, ineffective if it is intended to vent dangerous gasses,) <S> but it might be a code requirement. <S> Alternatively, it might be something that drains from another area, possibly a french drain. <S> 2) <S> Those are sleeve clamp connections. <S> There should be some small screws/bolts that you can loosen, and then you can just slide the sleeves up. <S> The pipes are already cut underneath the sleeve clamps. <S> Retighten the screws <S> /bolts them on the upper segment of pipe to make sure nothing falls into the pit, then simply remove the lid once the sleeves are moved. <S> Turn the pump off before doing this (i.e. pull the plug out,) <S> otherwise you might get very wet (or electrocuted) . <S> 3) <S> The receptacle (outlet) looks fine, but there are no indications that it is GFCI protection and therefore does not meet current code requirements. <S> Receptacles below grade (i.e. in basements,) in garages, and in areas near water are required to be GFCI-protected. <S> GFCI protection can be provided by a GFCI breaker, an upstream GFCI receptacle, or by installing a GFCI receptacle at this location. <A> These are the kind of things you want to ask the previous owners about, BEFORE you move in. <S> They know all of that information. <S> When we left our last house, I gave the new owners a complete owner's manual to the house, with all of the things they would need to know to maintain it. <S> My first guess is this is a drain INTO the sump, possibly coming from a french drain somewhere near the foundation that had no place to go otherwise. <S> To be more sure, trace it back to its source. <S> The second possibility lies in the fact that your sump lid is covered over, and appears to be sealed. <S> To know which of these it is, you need to check to see where that line goes to. <S> If it exhausts somewhere, with a powered fan in the line, then it is radon mitigation. <S> If it goes into a cellar wall, it is probably a part of a french drain. <S> That the pump was running frequently simply means there is a lot of water coming in. <S> The power line seems fine. <S> Best is if it goes to a GFI breaker, but many older homes do not have these things. <S> If this IS part of a radon mitigation system, then you need to be careful when you open up the sump. <S> These things work by creating a region of negative pressure. <S> If you damage the seals, then it will work poorly, leaving you are more risk if there is indeed radon coming into your basement. <S> Find out what you have, what these lines do, BEFORE you mess around down there.
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That pipe may well be part of a radon mitigation system, sucking air (with radon in it) that comes into the sump from under the floor slab.
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How can I keep a bedroom warmer in summer? The master bedroom in my parent's house tends to be the coolest room in the house, and my father complains it's too cold. The A/C register in the ceiling does have a flow adjustment lever, but it's difficult for my 80-year-old dad to reach and adjust. I tried to attach a pull wire, but the lever is just a slightly bent strip of metal, and I can't manage to tie anything to it securely enough to be usable. Does anybody make a register that's easier for the elderly to adjust? Where can I find it? A register with a built-in thermostat might work, too. Is there such a thing? Or does someone have another idea about keeping the room from getting too cold (without the rest of the house becoming too hot)? <Q> They do make thermostat controlled vent covers , this particular one is ~$60. <S> I'm not sure how difficult it is to install one of these (as I've never done it myself), but it sounds like this is exactly the type of thing you are looking for. <S> This is not a recommendation for this product, simply an example to show that they do exist. <A> Example of an electric damper w/ thermostat <A> In my house, and every Canadian house I've been in, you can just lift the register out of the floor. <S> It's way easier to close the vents when you hold the register in your hand and work it from underneath. <S> Then put it back in the floor. <S> This is assuming your register looks something like this: If you can't get it up, but it's metal, they also sell magnetic vent covers with a grill pattern on them <S> so it still looks like a vent. <S> Blocks the air.
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If the ductwork for the room in question is in the attic and easily accessible, you could have an electric damper installed with it's own thermostat.
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What's the most common cause of A/C refrigerant lines freezing? I noticed my house wasn't getting under 75°F this weekend when I had the thermostat set for 70°F. Since I'd done a lot of drywall sanding inside recently, my first idea was to replace the filthy air filter. My first indication that the air filter wasn't the root cause was when the return didn't have enough suction to hold the air filter in place while I was replacing it. I went outside to look at the compressor unit and discovered the exposed portion of the refrigerant line running into the house was frozen, but the fan was still running. The evaporator drain line still had a steady stream of water coming out of it. After turning everything off and waiting for the line to thaw, I turned the thermostat back on. Cooler air came out of the vents, but it didn't seem to be blowing with much force, and it wasn't as cool as it should be. I went back outside and discovered the refrigerant line was already frosting up again. At this point it was already dark, so I turned everything back off and slept with the ceiling fan on. :/ Other random notes that may or may not play a factor: The AC unit had been sitting idle the past 3 days since we had nice weather in the mid-70's last week. I mowed the lawn next to the condenser unit the day I noticed it stopped working. However, I was bagging the grass clippings, so nothing should have been blown into the unit. Any ideas on the root cause of the icing and lower air flow? I wouldn't think the two would be connected normally. Is it something as simple as low refrigerant levels? I plan on going to look more closely at it after work today. What are some other things I should pay attention to? UPDATE: I checked the system after work today and decided to give it one more chance after I couldn't find anything wrong with it. After a few hours, it had brought the inside temperature down from 80°F to 75°F. I periodically checked the refrigerant line for freezing, but it never got much colder than 60ish degrees. I think the root cause was the air filter, and that I didn't allow enough time for the line to thaw last night. UPDATE 2: Maybe I drew conclusions too soon - I just checked the refrigerant line and discovered frost on it again. The inside temperature was at 72°F while the outside was at 66°F. I think pumping warm air to a cooler outside temperature may have contributed to the icing, but I'm not completely sure. (And if you think I'm crazy for running the AC when I could just open the window, you'd think twice too if you saw how many bugs swarm my porch light and windows every night. Dozens of them somehow find their way past the screens if I open the windows.) I plan on running it again tomorrow during the day and monitoring the refrigerant line temperature every few hours. If it freezes up again, I think I'm going to cave and call a repair guy. UPDATE 3: I totally forgot to follow up on this. It froze again, so I called an HVAC repair guy. He checked the system, added refrigerant, and problem solved. I think the bill came out somewhere around $150 for the service call fee and refrigerant costs. <Q> You may be looking at the problem backwards, the freezing lines could be a symptom of the problem not the cause. <S> Start by looking for blockages in the system that would cause lower air flow / heat exchange. <S> Dirty filters. <S> Clogged ducts. <S> Closed dampers. <S> Closed <S> /Blocked vent covers. <S> Dirty coils. <S> Basically if the system cannot exchange the heat/cold, it will not function properly and could lead to over heating/cooling. <S> Frozen lines could also be caused by high or low levels of refrigerant, so you'll want to get a service person out to check the refrigerant levels. <S> Here is a really good image to visualize how it works. <A> My A/C's frozen up before due to insufficient airflow over the evaporator coil. <S> Turns out those $20 allergen-blocking air filters can slow down the air too much <S> , so I switched to a cheaper one that doesn't block the air flow as much. <A> If the small pipe is frozen, the gas is insufficient. <S> Call a service man to recharge some gas again. <A> My guess is a dirty "A" coil or blower wheel. <S> There also may be a leak in the system. <S> If there's a leak adding freon will only temporarily fix the problem. <S> The system should be leak free and refrigerant shouldn't need to be added.
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My A/C guy also told me that running the A/C when it's cooler outside than inside can cause it to freeze up in certain conditions like low airflow or low freon. If it is the coil or blower wheel, clean it and there won't be a problem any more.
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What is an effective way to attach this plastic filter to aluminum without drilling? I have an aluminum angle that is housing an LED strip. I need to attach a UV filter to stop LEDs fading whatever it lights. I ordered a plexi angle that will work as a filter, I just need to figure out how to attach it. I don't want to drill into the aluminum because its attached and I would like to make this as painless as possible. I would also like to make it removable so I can change lights. Any ideas? <Q> I would suggest good old J-B Weld for joining plexiglass and metal, and thistothat agrees. <S> Rough up the mating surfaces with 120 grit sandpaper and be sure to clamp where you can. <S> However, it will definitely be harder to get a good bond, you'll have trouble clamping it from what I can see of your design. <S> If you don't care because it's in a closet, you could cut some scrap wood to length and place it underneath as a brace while the J-B Weld cures. <A> Besides the adhesives already mentioned, as you're looking for something that could be removed if necessary, I'd suggest 3M VHB. <S> It's similar to what's in the 3M command hooks <S> (although stronger ... <S> it'll take the paint off walls), but it's not as strong in shear, so it's possible to remove things by twisting when you have to. <S> It's sold in rolls ... <S> you cut a piece to length, leaving the waxed paper on once side, place it on one piece, and rub the waxed paper to work out any bubbles and affix it well. <S> Then you peel off the paper, put the two pieces together, and press to bond. <A> That will be removable. <S> The trade off is that it's flexible, so you'll need to make sure the pieces don't need the velcro to hold them in a precise position.
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Velcro will work if the light doesn't get hot enough to melt the adhesive. If you don't want the J-B Weld to show, you'll have to put the plexiglass angle above the aluminum channel. Depending on how heavy the filter is, and how long it is, you might be able to get away with just an inch of the VHB every foot or so, which will make it much easier to remove later.
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Why do my toilets flush slowly and often incompletely? I have three toilets that all flush slowly and incompletely. I've adjusted the chain to ensure the flap raises completely. I've raised the float to ensure the tank fills nice and high. Yet I have this nagging issue on all my toilets. It often takes multiple flushes to clear simple waste and toilet paper, never mind the "hard" stuff. All the sinks and tubs drain well, no issues. I'm wondering if the age of a toilet can be a factor. All of my toilets are from the mid-eighties. I'm getting to the point where I just want to replace thm with some water-saving toilets but it would suck to have the problem persist. <Q> I picked up some CLR and scrubbed all the jets under the rim. <S> I even ran some through the tank - open flapper so as to minimize contact with the rubber and plastic. <S> Using a mirror and a small piece of wire I was able to clean out a few stubborn holes. <S> All toilets were able to take a steady volume of water from a bucket without issue. <S> This lead me to do a little more research. <S> What I found was the hole at the bottom of the toilet that forces water down the drain <S> is actually more susceptible to clogging and plays a larger role in the syphoning action. <S> All three toilets had significant mineral build-up in this hole. <S> A few minutes with my finger was able to clear out quite a lot. <S> Some careful work with a small l-shaped alan wrench brought me the rest of the way home. <S> Whammy! <S> The two younger toilets now flush like a champ. <S> The oldest was so badly plugged I'll be needing a replacement. <S> I'm gonna try a little soaking with CLR to see if it'll free up <S> but I'm expecting a trip to the hardware store. <A> To isolate the problem to the toilet internals and not any other plumbing, fill a large bucket (5 gal would be more than enough) with water and pour it in the bowl as fast as it will take it. <S> If it drains quickly, just replace the toilet, since you were already considering it. <S> I'm amazed at how well the newer toilets flush without using lots of water. <S> Short of replacing the toilet, I like Niall's CLR idea. <S> You could also check that nothing is blocking the flow under the flapper with your fingers. <S> If the toilet still drains slowly, then you have a blockage that may not be solved with a new toilet. <S> It could be an improperly installed wax seal, perhaps the drain line isn't properly sized, or there's something that can be snaked out. <S> It's also possible you could have a venting issue, but I'd expect bubbles, gurgling, or bad smells with your other plumbing if that were the case. <A> Here's an idea. <S> Get the rim dry and then cover the drain holes with duct tape. <S> Pour in the clr and let it sit for a good while. <S> Pull off tape and gauge improvement. <S> I've got a similar issue in my apt and now have to burn up a Saturday tackling it. <A> Check the venting. <S> You have to have good vent in the drain lines or you're losing half of your flush power to the siphon effect from the trap and water remaining in the bowl after the flush. <S> Newer houses are usually fine on this unless there's been some remodling done by someone who doesn't understand what the vent up to the roof are for. <A> There are five things that will cause a slow-flush toilet, and you need to check all of them as possible causes. <S> (1) partly filled tank (2) clogged drain trap (3) <S> clogged rim jets (4) clogged siphon jet, and (5) <S> blocked air vent. <S> Sounds like #4 was your problem... <S> glad you got <S> it figured out. <S> You can see more about each of these here: http://quezi.com/21030 <A> I regularly auger my toilets, but it doesn;t <S> help much and for long. <S> I will probably be replacing them all soon in my 16 year old house.
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If the toilets are old, crud can develop inside that is nearly impossible to remove without detaching the toilet.
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How do I set up a massive spider glue trap like the one found on Reddit a week ago? The thread details are at http://www.reddit.com/r/WTF/comments/kdmd2/thought_id_check_the_spider_trap_i_stuck_in_my/ . Does anyone know what sort of glue trap I should buy? And what are the best locations to set these traps up? Should it be under the drawer? In a corner? Or what else? Also - should there be a cover over the trap? Are there also glue traps that work on the walls? (maybe even for spiders that go upside down?) And also - do they work better than the Victor Poison-Free Magnet traps? (that have walls that might divert possible spiders) Images attached below. <Q> My problem is camel crickets more than spiders. <S> Basically, it's the places where I've seen evidence of them, pushed up against the wall. <S> Under sinks and places of moisture tend to be the best locations in my experience. <S> As for where to get them ... um ... there's a website posted on the picture, but it looks like their catalog is more geared towards stores buying a display worth of product rather than just a few of 'em. <S> I've seen glue boards for sale at the local Home Depot, and I've gotten them at online before. <S> As for the question of cover, there are some that are designed so that it gets folded up into a little triangular tent-like shape, with the glue on the inside. <A> They're just glue traps. <S> Typically used for mice. <S> Not the most humane way to catch mice, but they work. <S> You can find them at any big-box store. <S> If you have pets in the house, be careful... <S> this stuff will NOT COME OUT of fur <S> and you end up having to shave the pet to get the things out. <S> ;) <A> I'm currently a fan of Tom Cat brand glue boards, there small enough to fit in out of the way places and so far have minimized the spider population that normally I find in my basement apartment. <S> On first trying them <S> the trap was soo covered with spiders <S> it was shocking. <S> And now about every 6 months I replace them, best places seem to be behind trash cans, corner by fridge, and one on each side of my sliding glass door. <S> They typically catch about 30 spiders and insects combined. <S> Though in there first use one trap may have had that many. <S> They catch the baby spiders as well, the ones too small to see from a distance. <S> For me they are a huge success with only maybe every once in a great while finding a spider. <S> I don't aggressively kill them unless they are poisonous or I can't tell. <S> I still want them around as I have no problems with ants or other insects which I'm sure they help control.
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I personally put the glue boards near the wall anyplace along the basement wall that gets wet the most often, and near the door to the outside.
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What is a minimally intrusive way to move a wire that is in a wall 3.5" to the left? I need to move a speaker that's mounted on a wall about 3.5" to the left. Here's what the actual mounted speaker looks like: The wire comes out inside the bracket that attaches to the wall, and feeds up into the speaker, so there's no room for wall plates or anything like that. This is an interior wall, though there is insulation (for soundproofing) in it. I have access to the other side, though it is also finished wall (really I already have to patch this side..). This is in the middle of the stud bay; there is a stud about 5" to the right of the existing wire. Does anyone have any tricks to doing this in a minimally intrusive way? UPDATE: Done, Thanks. (Well, aside from another coat of polyfilla, and some touch-up paint). The hole is drilled on almost a 45 degree angle towards the old hole, and I jiggled (technical term) the drill bit around inside so it's larger on the inside, more like a cone. The tape on the end of the wire has nothing to do with how I pulled it: it's a precaution to avoid shorting out my amp in case it is turned on. Good practice to do anytime you have bare speaker wires that are connected. (Better practice is of course to disconnect the other end, but I digress.) Thanks all <Q> You could always pick up a 1-Gang low voltage old work bracket like this... <S> Cut the hole to install it, which should give you enough space to grab the wire from the previous hole. <S> Then finish it off with a wall plate like this. <S> This is sort of an ugly wall plate (used for example only), they make nicer looking ones <S> but I couldn't find one with a quick search. <S> They used to have some that also had a way to mount the speaker built in, but I'm not sure if they still make those. <S> One of these snap-in types might look better. <A> You'll probably want to tie a string onto the speaker wire if you do this in case the tape comes off. <S> This way you won't have to pull a hook through the new hole, just a single wire taped to the speaker wire. <A> As you're working within the sam bay, I'd use xpda's recommendation of a coathanger or similar, but I'd not actually try to run it back out the old hole. <S> Instead, I would: <S> Drill a hole in the new location, larger than the wire you're pulling, elongated slightly in the direction of the old hole. <S> Straighten out a coathanger or similar <S> (it's easiest to trim it right where it spirals into the hook), then bend a hook at the very end. <S> Attach something to the end of the wire <S> so the hook won't slip off. <S> (you can also tape string onto the end if you think it might slip, but getting the string so it won't pull free is a pain ... <S> you want to tape it down leaving the end of the string free, then pull the free over back and take it down again). <S> From the new hole, use the coat hanger to go into the wall, staying as close to the drywall as you can (ie, don't go into the insulation), and hook the wire. <S> Once you hook the speaker wire, you may have to push it into the wall so the hook can grab it cleanly <S> Pull the coathanger and wire back to the new hole. <S> To keep from making too large of a hole, you can undermine the back of the drywall a little bit if you have to ... <S> this will let you run the coathanger hook as close as possible to the wall so it doesn't go into the insulation.
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A way that might result in a slightly smaller hole would be to run a coathanger wire in the new hole and out the old, then tape the end of the speaker wire to the end of the coathangar, and pull it through that way.
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How can I get a smoother finish when painting trim? I'm reinstalling some crown molding and decided to do some touching up while it's down. I had previously done some touch-ups on the same style in another room, and never quite got it perfectly smooth. How can I prevent brush strokes from showing on the finished product? Some factors I've thought about: Should I go buy a top-of-the line brush? Would thinning the latex paint with water help? Should I just go get a paint sprayer to save myself some time? (And hey, another excuse to buy a new tool is always great!) Follow-up: I went ahead and bought an airless paint sprayer on sale for $60 and used Floetrol as well. (My 1 gallon compressor couldn't supply the cfm required for the HVLP sprayers I considered.) As shirlock suggested, I had to go over the trim with a brush afterward, but I think it was the most efficient method to use. A few minutes of spraying followed by a quick brush over was all it took for 30+ ft of crown molding. I think I actually spent longer cleaning out the sprayer afterwards than I did painting. <Q> Getting a smooth finish without purchasing an expensive HVLP sprayer is fairly easy. <S> Start with any good grade paint, and treat it with Flotrol acrylic additive at a rate of about 1/2 pint per gallon and mix well. <S> If you get a real thick paint, you can increase the amount of Flowtrol up to one pint per gallon max. <S> I use and recommend Purdy brushes. <S> For trim, I like a sash brush, (angled style). <S> Be sure to pick out a brush for latex paint, usually a combo of nylon and poly bristles. <S> The ends of the bristles need to be very tapered and soft. <S> Your technique is important also. <S> Properly treated paint and the right brush used well will give you fantastic results. <S> Good luck. <A> You definitely should buy hight quality brush. <S> But it didn't work for me until I got high quality paint to go with it. <S> Try Sherwin Williams or Benjamin Moore latex trim paint. <S> It lays very smooth, if you get it right - <S> no strokes at all. <S> It kind of flows like a film and very little drips. <S> I'm not pro at all <S> but I had much better result with a quality paint.. <A> I think nothing lays a nicer finish than an HVLP sprayer. <S> Having one around, I'm always finding a use for it (stain is nice with an HVLP too) ... <S> excuses to buy tools are nice! <A> I hate painting with oil paint, but because it takes longer to dry it leaves a much smoother finish - no paint strokes. <S> For trim work, it's pretty standard to use oil based paint. <S> Just be careful with drips and cleanup!
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Always try to finish with long smooth strokes only using the very tips of the bristles. Check out the Purdy ExtraGlides for latex.
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Should a 3'-4' retaining wall have interlocking blocks? I'm building a 3'-4' retaining wall in my backyard and I'm in the process of choosing block. One of the blocks I like isn't engineered with any kind of lip or interlocking feature. Is this necessary for a wall that size? Or is this type of block meant more for a freestanding wall or a small garden wall with only 2-4 courses? <Q> without a lip you'd want to use concrete adhesive on each row. <S> check your local code regulations. <S> Typically a wall of a certain height has to be run through an engineer first. <S> In my area I believe the height was 3'. <S> Anything higher I'd have to hire an engineer. <S> In our case, we had a large amount of earth to retain, but decided it was best to use a tiered approach building two 3' walls with a 8' set back between each. <S> In either case, go with the largest blocks you can use. <A> The blocks you linked to are more for decorative purposes; one or two courses around flowerbeds or trees. <S> What you're going to need for 3'-4' of retaining wall is something like this: <S> This is engineered block from http://www.anchorwall.com <S> (I'm not affiliated; it was the first thing that came up when I Googled "Retaining wall blocks"). <S> As you can see, they (and most other providers) can put that "hand-chiseled" look on just about any type of manufactured stone, and color it to your liking, so you should be able to get pretty close. <S> Understand that a wall like the one in the picture will probably run you between 15 and 20 grand, installed. <S> On top of the blocks and the labor, there is a LOT of prep work that goes into building a wall like this. <S> You have to consider grade on both sides of the finished wall, water drainage (water will sink into the soil and collect behind the wall), as well as build a proper foundation beneath grade (this particular wall represents maybe about 20 TONS of stone, so it needs a very solid base of compacted crushed gravel to prevent shifting and sinking). <S> And yes, you need all of this, because if this wall moves, the soil behind it moves, and then whatever that soil is supporting (like your house) will move. <A> This kind of block is almost definitely not what you want. <S> Without any interlocking of the bricks, the wall will eventually tilt as the earth behind <S> it pushes on it.
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The larger the block, the heavier the block, the sturdier the wall, and the better it will hold back whatever is behind it.
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Does a (non-splitting) cable splitter degrade the signal? I have cable and cable internet in my new apartment. The cable comes in to the water-heater closet from the roof and comes out an outlet in the wall of the closet, but there is a 4-way splitter in use before the cable gets to the outlet. It's not used to split the signal at all; the other three output connectors are empty. Since I added cable internet service (and used a 2-way splitter after the outlet), my tv cable signal is a little fuzzy on some channels; and I was wondering if the cable splitter in the closet is to blame. Could I buy a simple connector to replace the 4-way splitter and see an improvement; or would it be the same, since the splitter isn't actually splitting the signal? <Q> I believe it is splitting the signal, each output will have a specific loss associated. <S> Some splitters will unevenly split the signal (commonly called a tap), which is handy to give a better signal to a longer run or to the cable modem. <S> You can get a straight through connector at any HI store. <S> That said, even these will have some loss of signal, just no where near as much as from a splitter. <S> Note: Common Insertion Loss per output leg on passive splitters: <S> 2-way - 3dB <S> 3-way - 4.8dB <S> 4-way <S> - 6dB <S> 3dB is 1/2 the signal strength, basically on a two way splitter, full power goes in <S> , 1/2 comes out each leg as long as there is termination impedance on all (cable or terminator cap) ports. <A> If the splitter is a passive device you will get loss despite having nothing else connected, as signals reflect off boundaries etc. <S> If you need a splitter, a powered one (which typically amplifies and cleans the signal by filtering noise) would be a good idea. <S> Otherwise, the straight through mentioned by @BMitch should at least help reduce noise. <A> A cable splitter WILL result in a degradation of the signal, even if the other ports are unused. <S> One thing you can do is to add terminator caps to each unused port. <S> They are supposed to reduce the degradation. <S> Note that cheaper cable splitters will actually have a different amount of signal loss for each port. <S> You may see some numbers stamped next to the port itself, something like -2DB, -4DB, etc. <S> This is the signal loss that that specific port will give. <S> Use a high quality cable <S> wherever you can. <S> Cheap cables are a serious source of signal loss. <S> If you can hold the cable in your hands and see the signal change on your tv, then replace the cable with a good one!!!!!!! <S> If you are unable to find one in the correct length, then buy the cable by the foot and attach the cable ends yourself using the proper tools. <A> Look for a db rating (usually between 3 and 7 db) marked on the splitter itself. <S> This is the signal loss, (in decibels, a logarithmic scale) A 3.5 db signal loss represents approximately a 50% decrease in signal strength. <S> Usually this isn't a problem, particularly with digital signals (it either gets through or it doesn't) as there is lots of excess signal strength in the feed. <S> But, a second splitter in the chain can degrade the signal another 50%. <S> Also, look at lower db splitters at the tv. <S> While significantly more expensive than the cheapo's, they are still in the $10 range, so it won't break the bank. <S> Reference: http://www.cabletvamps.com/splitter%20info.htm <A> If I understand correctly, you are using a power divider which is designed to split the incoming signal four ways, and you have three of these with nothing connected. <S> High frequency signals, such as cable TV, depend on uniform signal paths. <S> One analogy is if you imagine a creek that is split into four smaller creeks. <S> The water ends is split into four parts, each with a quarter of the water, but all of them going the same speed <S> (Though in reality, it'll reduce the speed a bit, so you get just under a quarter of the water-power in each of the small creeks). <S> Now, in your situation, you have three of the creeks blocked. <S> All of the water will end up going down the open creek, but it'll slow down the speed significantly (and make a bunch of nasty waves in the process). <S> They work less well and generate reflections and other problems when their outputs are left open. <S> One solution would be to properly terminate each of the output ports with a 75 ohm impedance which would reduce the interference problems. <S> But, it would be much better to replace it with an adapter (straight through connector) which properly joins the two cables. <S> So, the answer is yes: Not only are you only getting perhaps 20% of the cable TV power going to your TV, but the splitter is likely also causing signal interference. <A> unterminated cables cause reflections of the signal back up the wire. <S> The result is very complicated and can affect the clean-ness of the signal at your cable modem. <S> Terminating with 75 ohm terminators help reduce this reflection to zero, but do not prevent the splitting loss from happening (this is because the terminator looks like an infinitely long cable to the rest of the system, the reflections never come back.
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Splitters all degrade the signal somewhat. I'd look at replacing the useless splitter with a straight through connector, which should help. Power dividers do the same thing. I have found that a quad shielded RG6 cable seems to be a good cost effective solution.
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What voltage/amperage garage circuits should I install for welding tools and an air compressor? As a part of renovating my garage this fall, much of the wiring is being re-done. Since doing the work before putting up walls will be much easier now than adding circuits in the future, I'd like to run two circuits for future "big" tools. The first is a welder- I'm very interested in learning how to weld, and will likely buy a welder in the next 1-2 years. I have heard that most of the quality welders are 220-230 volt devices, and use anywhere from 30-60 amps. If you were renovating a garage, and wanted to put in a circuit for a future welder, what amperage branch circuit would you run? Second- in the next few months I'll be investing in a good air compressor. Currently I have a little 1-gallon pancake style compressor. In the garage, I'd ideally like something that could drive a set of pneumatic tools, be used to inflate tires, etc. I know compressors come in size from tiny, to ginormous. What size compressor (and corresponding branch circuit) would you recommend planning for? <Q> I'm sure this question is moot for the original writer but for anyone else with a similar interest, the important point is that the garage is going to be used as a shop and the electrical infrastructure should be flexible to accomodate future needs. <S> Thus I would recommend you install a 100 AMP sub-panel (220V of course) and <S> surface mount it so that you can run new romex to new surface mount receptacles as needed. <S> Go ahead and install the receptacles you know you need now. <S> When/if you want to rearrange your shop or get new heavy machinery, it will be easier to wire them up. <A> In addition to amperage, you should decide what voltage you want to be able to use, and if 220, which type of outlet you're likely to need. <S> A 220v welder will take about half the amperage of a similar 110v welder. <S> 90-100 amps is fairly common, but you can find smaller (and larger) welders. <S> An air compressor will probably take a lot less current, maybe 20-30 amps for 220v or 20-50 amps for 110v. <S> Look around at air compressors and welders you might eventually be interested in and you can get a good idea of the amperage you want to wire for. <A> A quick check on Amazon shows that many welders are 115V / 20A devices, which is not much. <S> If that's all you want, then any size subpanel you put in the garage will be enough. <S> 60A is a common subpanel size. <S> When I went to run a 30A subpanel to my septic system, I found that the smallest allowable copper wire was twice as expensive as some enormous (#2) aluminum. <S> That's enough for 90A, ignoring voltage drop over long runs. <S> Point is, you may end up running feeders that are way bigger than you think you need, giving you plenty of headroom for your machines later. <A> For a 230 volt single-phase welder I'd run at least 50 amps. <S> All depends on the specs of the machine you hope to be using. <S> Also, while you're renovating think about ventilation. <S> :) <S> A wall exhaust fan shouldn't be that costly to add.
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If you run everything in big conduit (2"), you have the option of running a single 20A MWBC to the garage now, with the breakers in the main panel, and upgrading when you've picked out your welder.
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