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What is the difference between R20 and PAR20 lightbulbs? Are they compatible? What do R and PAR prefixes represent in general? Important decision, need to buy several replacement lightbulbs! <Q> According to this site : R20 bulbs have reflectors that direct light forward and produce more narrow soft-edged beam that is less precise than PAR20 bulbs. <S> R20 bulbs also produce less shadow than PAR20 bulbs. <S> Source: http://www.agreensupply.com/difference-between-par20-and-r20-led-light-bulbs/ <A> My understanding is that PAR lights have thicker glass to withstand more extreme conditions, and are thus usually chosen for outdoor purposes. <S> R lights have thinner glass and are only meant for indoor use. <A> PAR stands for Parabolic Aluminized Reflector, by the way. <S> The numeric part of the number is the diameter in eighths of an inch. <S> A PAR38 will be 4-3/4" in diameter and an R20 or <S> PAR R20 should be 2-1/2" in diameter. <A> Both answers above are correct. <S> Just adding a different look. <S> Par and R 20's can be incandescent, fluorescent and LED. <S> The most common lamps are the 45R20 and the 50Par20's. <S> The pars have a parabolic glass that deflects the light a little better than the R's. <S> The Par's are halogen, burn at a little cooler color <S> (regular incandescent is aprox 2700 kelvins and <S> Pars burn around 3000K.) <S> Now here's the big difference. <S> The 45R20's puts out around 295 lumens, or 6.6 lumens per watt. <S> The halogen 50PAR20HAL-NFL30 <S> (halogen narrow flood 30 degree beam spread) puts out 550 lumens, or 11 lumens per watt, or 40% more lumens. <S> Since you get more light out of the halogen you can dim your lamps more and use less wattage by dimming and this converts over to heat. <S> More dimming equals less heat. <S> Also dimming a lamp 10% saves 10% electricity and makes the bulb last twice as long. <S> Also, lamp life is 2500 hours on PAR20's and 2000 hours on R20's. <S> Not much when you compare to 10K hours of fluorescent and 30k+ on LED. <A> Adding a couple of points: <S> All the "R" bulbs have reflectors, to make all the light come out the front of the bulb. <S> They are intended to be used in fixtures where you don't need light coming out the sides or the back. <S> In addition to PAR and R, there is also BR (bulbous [some say "bulged"] reflector). <S> PAR bulbs can come in flood (FL) or spot (SP) configurations. <S> Typically, PARs are shorter than R/BRs. <S> This means they sit higher in the fixture, which may reduce glare. <S> The R/BR type provides a softer light. <S> The front of the bulb is more or less made like a regular standard bulb -- i.e., the surface is frosted. <S> The PARs have lenses on the front to direct the light. <S> For this reason, too, you may find PARs to be less glare-y, when seen from side angles. <S> Related question: <S> What exactly is a PAR type LED lamp, how does it differ from R/BR type LED & CFL lamps?
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PAR20 bulbs control light more precisely and produce more concentrated light than R20.
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How do I add insulation to my attic? I'm pretty sure my attic needs some additional insulation (it looks pretty sparse and my house is freezing!). Here are some images of my attic: http://imgur.com/a/pdsXF Two questions: There is some existing blown-in insulation (looks like the recycled kind), can I lay down batt insulation over that? I have a skylight that is not insulated at all, how can I insulate the drywall around it? Is this a good idea. *Some additional Info: I'm in CA (East SF Bay Area). Winters are not too cold, Summers can be hot (90s-100s). <Q> You can, <S> but there's a few issues to be aware of. <S> First, your blown-in insulation requires space to stay "fluffy" and work well. <S> Compressing the blown-in with batts will diminish the former's effectiveness and compromise the overall r-value. <S> Secondly any vapor barrier (the paper on the roll) should be against the drywall. <S> If you don't have a vapor barrier in place, I would address that (see this article from this answer for more info). <S> If you do have a vapor barrier, make sure you buy unfaced (like your link), or remove the paper from your batts before installing. <S> Your best value will likely be buying more blown-in insulation. <S> If you buy a reasonable amount most of the big box stores will let you rent the machine for free. <S> It is a messy two person job, however. <S> It looks like you have standard 2x4s on the edges where the drywall is attached <S> , you could staple faced fiberglass batts to it. <S> Measure between the "studs" and buy a roll that you can cut to width. <S> I've seen skylights both with and without insulation <S> , I don't know if there is a downside to insulating them. <S> Edit <S> If you put plywood over the cellulose, you're going to have a similar compression problem. <S> This table shows you what kind of r-value you can get per inch. <S> So the depth of your joists (they didn't look very tall) is going to limit the r-value you can get if you're covering the joists with plywood. <S> You might try asking another question once you figure out what r-value you have and what r-value you'd like to have. <S> If you're near the recommended r-value for your climate and your house is still too cold, you might be better served by looking for air leaks first. <A> I had a similiar issue with my house in New England (lack of insulation), basically I laid unfaced batts over the existing insulation to increase the R value. <S> Some things I did: <S> Make sure your vents still have access to the outside air, do not cover them with the newer insulation. <S> I laid the batts perpindicular to the joists and over existing installation <S> If you DIY, try not to put your foot through the ceiling (easier said then done) <S> and I recommend adding the insulation during the fall or spring <S> or else it will be very uncomfortable up there. <S> I brought a few 2x6s to the attic <S> so I could stand on them when I was up there. <A> For the skylight, instead of insulating the shaft, you can get a lot of improvement by adding a plexiglass panel to the bottom of the skylight, level with the interior ceiling. <S> You seat the plexi sheet on top of strip molding nailed to the bottom of the skylight shaft. <S> You sacrifice about 10% of the light, and materials cost around $30 for a 24x48" skylight (lowes.com part# 126161 and 11220).
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Since it appears the insulation you already have is near the top, you won't see a huge gain in efficiency if you add just another inch or two of blown insulation.
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How to finish room with protruding concrete ledge/foundation? I am finishing a basement room and have a concrete ledge which is part of the foundation. It protrudes into the room about 2.5 inches and is about 6 inches high. This ledge is the result of a particular way of pouring the foundation which results (as I am told) in higher ceilings in the basement, but leaves this rather annoying ledge. (See photos). Apparently there are multiple ways of working with this type of thing, which I learned from looking at similar homes in my neighborhood: Some people frame the walls inside the ledge completely, effectively shrinking the finished room by that amount; others have framed up to the window sill height and created a shelf in the room at that height. I've chosen to maximize space in the room and finished the walls above the ledge intending to create an exaggerated baseboard around the concrete ledge. However, exactly how to do that is proving difficult. First, the concrete thickness (protrusion into the room) is not consistent. It's 2.5 inches in the middle, but is nearly 2.75 at one end and 2.25 at the other. Whatever I cover it with will have to compensate. The height of 6 inches is fairly consistent. Next the concrete is not smooth, there are many small protrusions which will have to be worked around or removed with a chisel or hammer. Finally, I'd like to have a small measure of insulation so that the room is isolated from the cold concrete. So, I've come up with two ideas that might work: A. Use an adhesive to attach dense insulating foam, about 1/2 thick, to top and side of ledge. Attach MDF to these surfaces using adhesive, and router the corner to a rounded edge. Prime and paint. B. Rip some 2x4's to a 1/2 to 3/4 inch thickness and attach to ledge face every 16 inches, using concrete anchors. The thickness of the 2x4 would vary so that the end result is square with the room and makes up for the irregular shape of the concrete. Attach MDF to these. Fill air gaps with expanding foam insulation. Finish MDF with with a routered corner, prime and paint. I'm not sure if there is a better or common way of building around such concrete ledges. The heart of the question: Is there a recommended way to build around a concrete ledge like this? Factoids that may or may not matter: The basement is at ground level. The room is 11 ft. by 9.5 ft. (105 sq. ft.) The ledge is only on two exterior sides. The flooring will be laminate. The existing walls are insulated, framed, and already have finished drywall with texture and primer. Update: I decided to go with plan "A" and thought I would post an in-progress picture. Thanks for the suggestions and tips. Update: For those interested, here are some pictures several years later. I installed cabinets and notched the bottom/back to install flush with the wall. It protrudes inside the cabinet, but not overly so. Notching was quite a bit of work. The ledge doubles as a footrest. ;) <Q> We had an almost identical situation in a former garage that we refinished to be an office. <S> Our contractor suggested this and we liked the result: he installed a piece of wood about an inch out from the concrete, putting insulation between them and keeping the wood a consistent and level height - a little higher than the concrete. <S> I can't remember if it was pink fluffy insulation or spray stuff. <S> Then a shelf about 6 inches out from the wall - nice and level by being a bit up from the concrete and supported by the vertical wood, and there's insulation under the shelf too. <S> The whole thing is a good looking clear pine and is well varnished. <S> Looking from the side gives an idea of the distance from the wall: <S> The shelf runs around the entire room and is remarkably useful for something so low. <S> It hides all the lumpy bumpy aspects of the concrete and while it's not something you see everywhere, no-one has ever mentioned it <S> so it can't be that unusual. <A> Have you thought about maybe just building a bench around the room to encase the concrete ledge? <S> I'm not sure what the intended use of the room is, but a bench might be neat for a play room or entertainment room. <A> Looks like you will want to be creative. <S> In either case, use it as storage space. <S> Since this will be a home office, an option is to make the wall a cabinet all the way up, partly display case & shelves. <S> Our last house had one wall that was entirely build-in shelves above a bank of cabinets. <S> Lots of useful storage, and gives it a library feel. <S> Around the rest of the room, maybe you could do a wall in knotty pine tongue and groove as a paneling? <S> Again, it gives a warm feeling on the walls. <S> Our ceiling and one wall of the great room is that way in this house. <S> But this way, it will look not that out of place to have the base built out with a pine bump. <S> Wherever you will build it out with a baseboard, I'd start with a 3/4 inch square nailing strip, nailed to the floor on the base. <S> Have another nailing strip on top of the cement, this time nailed to the wall. <S> Pine baseboard straight up from the floor, and a pine cap above that goes to the wall itself. <S> I'd go with knotty pine for this because it is cheap and will take some knocks without looking too bad. <S> Cedar is a bit soft for down there. <S> Fill behind the baseboard with fiberglass insulation stuffed in. <S> Run a decorative molding above the top edge to east the transition into the wall. <S> The nice thing about use of a nailer strip is you can vary the thickness easily enough with a bit of quick custom hand planing (power plane for the lazy) to make it fit, leaving a straight edge. <S> And a nailer then makes it easy to attach the baseboard.
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Since the pine will be 3/4 inch thick on the wall, then you have just an extra bump out around the base, with a piece of molding on top of the cement "step" to hide it. I'd start with either a bench seat on part of the perimeter, essentially built-in storage, or a higher cabinet.
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How do I run cable through my ceiling? I have a cable that I need to run through the ceiling. I'd like to go under the floor, but I have a split level house, and this is the lower floor, so I don't believe there is room in the bottom half of the wall to run cable. Here's the situation in the ceiling. I think I have a decent handle on what needs done, but this is my first time having to do something like this, so I'm looking for tips and how I might actually fish the cable. So here's where my cable comes in to the house (wall to the right of this pic out of frame), and where I can easily access the joists: In my living room, here's what those ducts look like. Fortunately the joists run in the direction I'd like to run my cables. Here's the TV, my wife wants a shelf above it for the cable box, home theater PC, etc. So I need to fish network cable to this spot on the wall. There is a cable outlet there already but I have hunted all over and I cannot find a the other end of the cable. This house was a rats nest of RG-11 wiring when I moved in, and none of it makes any sense. Here is the approximate cable run. My biggest questionsL how I'm going to get the cable about 4 feet down through that hump in my ceiling and then make a 90% turn. How to fish it along the ceiling Am I going to have to cut an access hole in my wall by the TV, then patch the drywall to do what needs done? I can't think of any other way to do it. At least not in a hole the size of a wiring box. <Q> Couple problems I see. <S> First is the textured ceiling. <S> You'll never be able to open that up and patch it without being obvious, the texture is something that just isn't done these days. <S> Second, the exterior wall should have insulation in it, so you'll end up fishing the line through insulation and the vapor barrier. <S> Instead, I'd suggest running the line around the floor if you can get it to a convenient wall anywhere in that room. <S> Use some fasteners to keep the cable at the base of the wall to run it around the room: <A> If the spliter is indoors, run a line back outdoors and around. <S> BMitch is correct, you will never be able to fish that distance without opening the ceiling, and cutting into the drywall at the top corner. <A> What about running it along the underside of that shelf that runs around the perimeter of the room? <S> Just drill through the wall underneath the shelf and between some studs, and run the wire tucked under the shelf all the way back against the wall. <S> You won't be able to see it unless you're sitting on the floor. <A> Well, here I go potentially disagreeing with some more experienced folks. <S> Assuming you have clearance over the ceiling all the way to the back wall, this is doable with fish tape and a hole in the wall with the tv on it. <S> Get some small conduit (even thin pvc pipe will do), and put a 90 degree angle in the end. <S> In the case of metal conduit you would bend it with some pliers. <S> In the case of PVC pipe you would get threaded parts and screw it together. <S> Run it along the joist. <S> Assuming you have some clearance between the joist and the ceiling you should be able to hit the wall behind the wall with the tv. <S> Now all you need to do is pull the cable down and plug it in. <S> Options to make the pulling process easier; 1) <S> Best - Take some tape (duct tape is good) and tape a piece of twine or fishing line about 2 ft long to the end of the cable. <S> Once it hits the end of the conduit just grab the twine and give it a good yank. <S> Avid tying a knot - it's possible (although difficult) to damage cable that way. <S> 2) Not best (having serious trouble, even after the above? <S> go this route) <S> chop off the connector and replace it after you pull it through. <S> To do this you need a) <S> an understanding of the way cables work (conductors, insulation, etc) and b) <S> a crimp tool and connectors (available in radioshack). <S> Crimping instructions are found on the tool packaging. <S> Don't know how to use a multimeter? <S> Think twice. <A> While this can be done with some long flexible drill bits, fish tape, and rods, it will be difficult to go this exact route. <S> You will likely need at least one or two cuts, and as the previous poster mentioned, your ceiling would be hard to patch. <S> You might be able to run it in the ductwork but this is often frowned upon. <S> It looks like you want to put the TV on an exterior wall. <S> If that is the case, my recommendation would be to run the cable on the exterior of the house and just punch through the siding where you want to terminate the cable. <S> You should place a low-voltage rework box at the location of the recepticle. <S> Make sure to use cable clips to keep the wire against the wall. <A> If there is baseboard molding around the bottom edge of the wall. <S> Remove the molding. <S> Lay the cable in the gap between the floor and the wall covering (drywall, plaster, etc). <S> Fish the cable up the wall to where you need it. <S> reinstall the molding (be careful not to nail through the cable when you install the molding). <S> You may need a right angle connector, where you come through the wall behind the molding <S> (Coaxial Cable does not make tight 90 turns). <A> You can buy a product called " Corner Duct 1075 series . <S> " It looks vaguely like crown molding, except it is made of plastic and has a removable cap. <S> Alternatively, you could just run the cable along the ceiling/wall joint and lay crown molding over it. <S> Sometimes a straight line is not the best answer. <A> Eight years ago, these were great answers. <S> Since 2016-ish, the solution is EOP -- Ethernet over Power.
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I think I'd look for the outside spliter and run the cable around the outside of the house under the edge of the siding and try to enter as close as possible through the wall behind the TV. There will be a lot of drywall repair needed, and be very hard to match that textured ceiling, not to mention the mudding and painting in the top corner. If you do make sure to use plenum-rated cable so that it will not burn and spread fire. Also before ever tapping into a ceiling look at what direction your vents are sitting. This will tell you which way your floor joist are running. Since 2018-ish, you can get EOP units that handle 1Gb speeds (within your house, not necessarily out to the external Internet 'cause that's a slightly different story).
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Does wardrobe/closet need doors? I was always told to let the wardrobe doors open sometimes, so "let the air circulate". And I wonder, does the wardrobe actually need to have doors? What would be the problems (other them visual) of let it always open? <Q> The main reason for having doors that I can think of is that UV light will fade clothes and degrade some materials over time. <S> As a commenter said, this might more of a problem depending on what direction the rooms window faces. <A> Tom, I have 6 bedrooms with 7 closets, 4 of which are open. <S> My experience says that the open closets get used more efficiently. <S> In our open closets: We can see everything so everything gets worn. <S> Nothing gets hidden in the back corner. <S> We end up organizing much better. <S> We were not very organized before removing the doors. <S> Now we have to be organized as everything is on display. <S> One room with on open closet is a guest room, and the closet is kept completely empty for the guests. <S> The guests really like the empty closet because when they stay with friends they usually have to live out of their suitcases due to no available closet space. <S> None have ever mentioned having an issue with the open closet. <S> We ended up getting a lot of new hangers. <S> Because everything is on display it looked better if everything is on matching hangers. <S> In our case we don't have an issue with UV light fading the clothes. <S> One of the closed closets does not contain clothes, and it is jammed full. <S> We have to open the door carefully. <S> That is not really possible with the open closets. <S> We took the sliding doors off of our closets during a remodel. <S> They never got reinstalled. <S> We don't miss them at all. <A> For someone that has toddlers, doors to any room are requirements. <A> In addition to the points already raised... your clothes are going to get eaten more easily by clothes moths if you don't store them in a closed cabinet. <A> Aesthetics. <S> Open doorways and large cabinets or closets without doors make a space seem public. <S> They're an invitation for browsing (or toddling as someone else mentioned). <S> If the stuff inside the open space isn't selected and organized artistically, it will look unattractive. <S> Museums and libraries have shelves and display cases without doors or with windows. <S> Bedroooms have cabinets with opaque, translucent (think rice paper), or slatted doors--for looks. <S> The slatted or louvered designs clearly rule out the design intent of protection from moths or blocking clothes from exposure to air and odors. <S> Though dust is effectively reduced by louvers. <S> Recently my wife and I "discussed" open bedside table furniture designs (tables without drawers or doors) and she helped me appreciate what doors and drawers are for.
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Having doors also will help to some degree with smells from cooking or smoking.
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How can I clean sticky and dirty hand tool's rubber? I have a hand tool - Needle-nose plier that had a rubber that is used as the handle. Currently, I managed to clean up all the rust on the metal and would like to clean up the rubber handle as it is sticky and dirty. Should I use baking soda mixed with a little water as a paste to clean up the rubber handle or should I buy a new rubber to replace that old rubber? <Q> Avoid abrasive sponges as they will abrade the rubber as well as the gunk. <S> Products with citrus oils like lemon or orange oil will be very good at cutting really stubborn gunk; then you just wash off the oil with a detergent. <S> If you really want to recondition the tool, and you can replace the rubber, then go ahead; there will be more gunk and rust under the handle coating, and even completely clean the rubber will be roughed up from general use. <S> For most pliers, you can just cut off the rubber, clean up underneath, and then get yourself a can of Plasti-Dip and re-dip the tool handles. <A> I don't think you want to use an abrasive on rubber/plastic coatings, and re-coating them is a bit extreme. <S> So before you try either of those, try some <S> Goo Gone <S> * - it's usually safe, and will get the goo off. <S> *I have no affiliation with the company, just a satisfied customer. <A> Rubbing alcohol worked nicely on a baby carrier handle. <S> It should work well on the tool handles, too. <A> Just tried rubber cement eraser, if you don't know what it is, look it up at Google. <S> It worked perfectly for sticky and rubberised plastics. <S> Just get one from stationery shop and rub it on the sticky surface. <S> It is not abrasive and will only take out the gluey part. <A> I used finger nail polish remover (acetone) and it did a excellent job. <A> Be careful using solvents. <S> The reason the rubber is sticky is oil, either from the skin of your hands or from the environment you work in, has begun to break down the rubber. <S> Rubber handles on tools are glued with a contact cement that will dissolve in goo gone or orange oil. <S> I found some silicone spray that, after a thorough cleaning with a phosphate detergent, creates a barrier similar to what it had when new. <S> make sure the rubber is clean and dry when applying.
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Rubber can usually be de-gunked with a good dishwashing liquid and a brush.
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Why is a single walled pipe not used for wood stove exhaust pipe on upper floors? I've recently been looking into wood burning stoves. Many installations use a stove pipe that goes straight up through the ceiling and out the roof. Most of these use a single walled pipe for the first room (the room containing the stove), and then through the second floor and attic/roof sections a double-wall insulated pipe is used. My question is, for what reason is a single walled pipe not used for the second floor room? Surely this would allow more of the stove pipe heat to be used to heat the upper floor? (note I mean the upper room, not the attic section). The only possible reasons I can see are: Fire hazzard. But in this case couldn't a protective guard be placed around the pipe, to stop anything touching it? Increased creosote build up. But we're not talking about a massive temperature difference here - so would this really have such a bad effect? Thanks <Q> Single walled pipe would get hot enough to ignite the surrounding materials. <S> Also, a lot of fireplace type units use a 2 walled pipe that brings in air for combustion through the outside pipe and exhausts hot air through the inside pipe, but that wouldn't be used in conjunction with single walled pipe. <A> The pipe on the interior of the house is called a connector. <S> It can be double or single wall pipe. <S> The advantages of using double-wall are closer clearances to combustibles, better drafting, and reduced creosote accumulation. <S> The class A pipe can be double or triple wall. <S> What is important is that it meet UL 103HT 2100 <S> °F standards. <S> For a lot more information on this question visit www.hearth.com. <A> To maintain proper drafting, the flue gas must remain hot all the way up until it exits. <S> Suck too much heat out in the upper room <S> and you'll get not only creosote buildup, but potentially draft problems down below.
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You have to use double walled pipe when going through walls and floors and what not because the double wall and the space between the pipes cools enough that it can come in contact with wall materials. As soon as the flue exits the room, be it wall or ceiling, there must be a thimble or ceiling support box that transitions from the connector pipe to either class A, high temperature pipe or a masonry chimney.
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Should I be concerned about the repair to a ceiling after water damage? We're in the middle floors of an apartment building and have had some damage done to our bathroom ceiling around the manhole due to some leaking pipes (minor rupture so there was a bit of water). The damage is most visible around the manhole primarily because this is how the water leaked down out of the ceiling section. There was a fair bit of water when it was discovered. The leak has been fixed by the buildings plumber. Now the building management is responsible for repairing the damage as it was caused by a fault that occurred between apartments. What I see: Some discoloration and stains around the area where the water leaked out. The ceiling looks slightly darker (still wet look - but not the touch) around the manhole up to the edge of the wall. Images here: corner discoloration hard to see and stain on manhole I'm still waiting to hear back from the repair man about what steps he'll take. I'm hoping it will involve repainting the ceiling. Questions: What else can I look for / ask to be done as part of the ceiling repairs to ensure any damage doesn't get worse? Should I be concerned about the state of the plaster now? <Q> During our renovations we had extensive leaking through our very old plaster (c1927). <S> We found that even after the plaster had dried, the stains would continue coming through. <S> We had the ceiling treated with a stain blocker before painting but still some stains came through. <S> On the ceilings with the least damage, the stain blocker + a few coats of paint worked. <S> The plaster was as strong as ever. <S> For the badly damaged ceilings, we ended up replacing the plaster. <S> For us the decision was easy since the plaster was so old and kinda wobbly. <S> PS: Also check the state of your insulation (if you have any) <A> No need to worry about any damage and by looking at your photos everything looks fine. <S> (from the bottom side - how it on top?) <S> if there was excessive amounts of water, i mean like massive pools of water, that could have caused the plaster board to bend on the weight, then it would need replacing. <S> In you case it was a minor leak, so if the leak is fixed: Leave the plaster to dry natuarlly <S> over 1 or 2 weeks Clean the area with a rough material, slightly damp with water- <S> do not use soap. <S> Let the surface dry. <S> Pre paint any discoloured patches with the colour you want, several times, letting it dry in-between coats. <S> Paint the whole ceieling to match the colour with 1 or 2 coats. <S> Nothing else needs to be done. <A> Then prime the damaged surface several times. <S> The primer is designed to prevent the surface from absorbing the solvent from the paint, but it will work in reverse as well - block moisture from reaching the paint. <S> Finally apply two or more layers of paint.
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Long and short: you should be ok but wait until it is totally dry then apply a lot of stain blocker before painting. The damage look really minor and can be fixed as follows. First, let it dry for up to a month.
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What is the best way to repair MDF furniture? Our kitchen is made almost entirely from MDF. We have 1 closet where the hinges have pulled out and several drawers where the screws have pulled out. The MDF around the screws has just been eroded so the screws no longer fix in. What is the best way to fix these screws so they stay in? <Q> For a little extra friction, stick a little piece of one of those plastic coffee stirs in there too. <S> If chunks of mdf have broken off with your screw, you'll need to cut some more away,and glue a replacement block in place. <S> It's important to use a clamp when gluing pieces together. <S> Then lightly sand (just to rough the surface), clean, and prime, before repainting. <A> You can repair them in a way that is likely stronger than the original by gluing in some dowels and then re-drilling the proper sized holes. <S> Buy some wood dowel at the hardware store, something around 1/4" diameter will probably work. <S> Then drill out the old holes to match the dowel (you should use some scrap material and check the fit before drilling out the holes in the cabinets in case <S> the dowel is slightly undersized). <S> Cut the dowel to just shorter than the hole you drilled out and glue it in. <S> Pound it in flush, otherwise you will have extra work of trimming or sanding it flush. <S> When the glue is dry drill pilot holes for your screws and replace the doors. <A> +1 for Brian's suggestion on cutting away the damaged area. <S> This will help you get a clean edge to glue a replacement block in place, which will improve adhesion between the old and new surfaces. <S> The less gaps and the tighter the fit, the more securely glue will hold it. <S> That's probably your best bet without investing tons of time and effort. <S> You could also try filling in the holes with wood putty if it's a small enough area, and then try screwing in the mounting hardware somewhere else along the piece. <S> But the sturdiest thing is probably to replace each component as it fails. <S> MDF is a terrible substance to screw into because it doesn't hold mechanical fasteners well, as you've seen. <S> It's usually better backed up by something that can handle higher stresses. <S> If it's not cost-prohibitive or you have some tools around, you might consider replacing each failed unit with something stronger like plywood. <S> Otherwise you're probably going to keep running into this. <S> The only downside is it's much more involved than a simple repair and it will probably alter the finished look unless you can manage to use the existing material as a surface layer on new construction. <A> Just jamb a couple of toothpicks into the screw holes, then replace the screws and you should find plenty of bite. <A> For the hinges, you can try moving them if the have the correct drills to make new mounting wholes, so try a Kitchen Door Hinge Repair Plate <S> Depending what is on the other side of the MDF, you may be able to use a bolt with a washer. <S> If the screws go into the end of the MDF, try longer screws. <A> Just another solution from an old magazine I once read: Take a golf tee, fill the hole with glue, tap the golf tee into the hole. <S> Let dry. <S> Cut off golf tee flush. <S> Screw will now hold again.
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For holes that are the right shape, but worn, add some wood glue, and screw it back in.
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Can I use a motion sensor to control fluorescent lights that are plugged into an outlet? In my garage, the light switch by the door is wired to an outlet on the ceiling. I've got two, inexpensive 4' fluorescent lighting fixtures plugged into that outlet. I know that wiring a fluorescent light to a motion sensor directly can be tricky . I don't know if that applies to an outlet. Is it safe to switch out the switch that controls the outlet with a motion sensor like the Leviton "Occupancy Sensor" ? <Q> It shouldn't be a problem, if you purchase the proper motion sensor. <S> When shopping, make sure the sensor specifically mentions compatibility with florescent lights. <S> The Heath Zenith Occupancy Motion Sensor Wall Switch Controls <S> up to 500 Watts incandescent and 400 Watts fluorescent lighting <S> According to it's documentation . <S> You can pick one up at Home Depot for ~$15.00 or Amazon for $32 USD (2018). <S> If you shop around, you can also find sensors that work with compact fluorescent lamps (CFL). <A> Like everybody is saying, look at the box. <S> Some older technology will say for fluorescent with magnetic ballast only, but now all ballast sold in US and probably most countries are electronic now, so know what you have for a ballast when you buy. <S> There are 2 different types of technologies most used for commercial use. <S> PIR or Passive InfraRed which looks for body heat, and Ultrasonic which actively sends out ultrasonic waves and then measure movement by calculating the difference in previous waves. <S> I would look for dual-technology sensors that takes both technologies and combines them into one sensor. <S> Fluorescent and motion sensors are really nothing new. <S> A lot of commercial building use them in restrooms, and some power companies offer rebates for using motion sensors for controlling aisle lighting in big warehouses. <S> Some detectors 'learn' from it's history to help eliminate nuisance trips. <A> I'm not sure why a fluoro would be "tricky" - <S> a motion sensor is just like a switch toggling the circuit on/off. <S> The one thing to note with fluoro's is that turning them on and off frequently drastically reduces their lifespan, so while this is technically possible, it is not recommended with this type of fixture/bulb. <A> If you would rather place something between the light and the wall, a motion sensor flood light rigged to control a power outlet in a separate box might work well... <S> If you are comfortable and good with electrical work, this may be a cheap fix for you. <S> I made one at one point with unused items laying around my house and a flood light from Habitat Re-Store. <S> It works wonderfully to turn on the lights in a small shed. <S> Parts: <S> Used Flood Light Outlet Box Outlet Wire (if needed) Plug
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Motion sensor lights can be purchased at Habitat Re-Stores or other re-use stores for a very low cost. Like this one from Hubbell Building Automation, Inc. .
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How can I automatically disconnect a coffee maker and space heater without tripping the building's 20A circuit breaker? My small office has a 20A breaker and we have to run a space heater in the winter or else we freeze to death. Whenever someone turns on the coffee maker, the office circuit breaker trips and everyone's computers are down for 10 minutes while someone goes and resets the breaker. We've tried implementing a policy of shutting off the space heater before starting the coffee maker, but it's too easy for people to forget. I plugged both devices into a power strip rated at 15 amps, and I assumed since it had a reset switch, it would actually trip at 15A. Much to my surprise, the office breaker still tripped. I also tried a different 15A power strip with the same results. I then plugged the power strip into a Kill-A-Watt meter and it measured over 22A with the coffee maker and space heater both running, before I unplugged everything. My best guess is that both the office breaker and the power strip have time-delay breakers, but the office breaker is on a shorter delay. Another theory is that the power strips are manufactured to very loose tolerances and will only trip if the current far exceeds 15A. So my questions are: Why isn't the 15A power strip tripping? Should it even have a time delay? If we just need to buy a better power strip, is there an easy (and safe) way to test at what current a power strip will trip, aside from plugging a bunch of stuff in and potentially tripping the office breaker instead? (Edit: I think I found the answer to this one.) If all else fails, what can I install between the wall and the appliances which will trip the space heater and coffee maker before the office breaker trips? <Q> Put your computers on a UPS , even a small one. <S> Just protecting yourself from short power outages will save you a bunch of downtime. <S> Even if you resolve your overload issue, this is still worth it. <S> that's under $500, giving you built-in battery backup & portability in a compact, low-power package. <S> Plug it in to your keyboard, mouse, and monitor the same as your desktop today, so your work experience doesn't change. <S> The power strip you linked to (http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/products/surge-protectors/home-surge/6050S.html?selectedTabId=specifications&imageI=#tab-box) doesn't appear to have a breaker. <S> I think that whoever wrote that was just confused about what it means to be rated for 15A. <S> You'll need: A steel square box, and an appropriate face plate A regular duplex receptacle. <S> Snap off the tab on the hot side of the recep, then run short leads from those 2 screws to the 3-way switch. <S> This will let the switch choose one socket or the other. <S> Plug in the heater on one and the coffee maker on the other. <S> Now it's easy to make sure only one is in use at a time. <S> (Later I will add some pictures and other details. <S> If anyone has pointers to the correct fittings and cable, please comment.) <A> Let me try and explain the breakers using this hypothetical scenario. <S> Let's say you have a 20A circuit which has 3 computers on it, totaling 12A. <S> Let's say you have a power strip with a coffee pot and a heater, totaling 10A. <S> Now plug in the power strip to the 20A circuit. <S> Your 20A circuit now is overloaded with 22A, while your power strip is not overloaded as it is rated for 15A. Your 20A wall breaker should trip but the power strip breaker will not. <S> Breakers are thermal devices. <S> If you're only slightly over the breaker rating, it could take several minutes before it warms up enough to trip. <S> It sounds to me like you need a power strip with an A-B Selector. <S> I can't find one on the net, but you could toss something together with a SPDT (three-way) power switch and a receptacle. <A> Proper solution: run another circuit to this location for the space heater and/or coffee maker. <S> If all else fails, there's the low-tech solution: cover all the outlets except one, and tell everyone to unplug one device to plug the other in. <A> The "high"-tech solution: get a single-pole, double-throw switch where the two switched hot wires are connected to two different outlets. <S> Plug the coffee maker into one outlet and the space heater into the other. <S> Fancier yet: attach a normally open relay to the circuit so that when the coffee pot is turned on, the heater is turned off. <S> Fanciest: a low-voltage amperage-sensing control circuit that controls the heater based upon the coffee maker's usage. <S> That will allow your coffee maker to to keep running if it has something fancy like a clock -- or maybe your relay won't be that sensitive and will work directly.
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If your coffee maker and space heater are in the same location, you could plug them into mutually exclusive switched outlets. Lazy but error prone solution: get a power strip with overload protection included. 15A or 20A can work a 3-way switch cable plug (15A or 20A, to match the recep) fittings Most computer users today can get by with a laptop Only one outlet will work at a time courtesy of the switch.
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What is the cause of dishwasher vent leak? My dishwasher has a vent in the top of the door which I suppose is opened during the dry cycle to allow steam/moisture to escape. Recently, after running a load of dishes, when I open the door, about 2-3 oz of water leak from the vent and form a puddle on the floor. What could be causing the leak, and can it be repaired? This dishwasher has a "quiet" feature which involves a solenoid-operated value (that's too generous a description -- it's more of a flap) which blocks closes off the vent drain to reduce noise during the wash cycle. I removed the door control panel to inspect the valve/vent system. There is no crud clogging the drain, and the solenoid seems to be normally open (to the drain). (See the part labeled "5" here ) <Q> Does the water appear clear/clean, or does it have food bits and/or detergent in it? <S> My guess is one of two things: <S> The seal on the flap has degraded and the high-pressure jets are now able to force water in under the flap. <S> There is some "ledge" in this assembly in which water can collect and puddle, and doesn't dry during the dry cycle ( <S> possibly because of the extremely humid air passing by it; there's no capacity in the air to hold any more water). <A> Just had this happen to me on a Kenmore Elite dishwasher built by Whirlpool. <S> The vent assembly is very similar to this one, except that part #5 looks different but still serves the same purpose. <S> The seal (part #6) seats onto the outside of the door panel, white part <S> #7 is on the inside of the dishwasher and screws into part #5, holding the assembly snug and water tight. <S> Mine was loose and not seating well with the door panel. <S> This let water make its way past the seal and drain down between the door panels to the floor. <S> The solenoid operated flap inside part <S> #5 was working fine, tightening up part #7 fixed the issue. <A> My Whirlpool dishwasher was leaking from the bottom leftside of the door. <S> Turned out that the problem was with the worn out seal in the air vent on the door. <S> Replaced the seal on the air vent and cleaned the clogged vent. <S> The dishwasher is working fine now. <S> No leaks !! <A> My whirlpool dishwasher was dribbling on the floor when I opened the door during use. <S> I popped the vent cover off from the inside and found a ton of nasty thick crud in there. <S> Lime had built up not allowing water to drain from the vent to the interior of the door. <S> This caused the area to overflow and leak dirty water between the layers of the door onto the floor. <S> Cleaned it up good as new and soaked the vent cover inside the door in a bowl of vinegar. <S> Problem solved, no more leaks or spills after digging the crud out. <S> Since I had the whole door apart <S> I put the whole inner panel in the bathtub and scrubbed it within an inch of it's life. <S> Some covers require disassembling the door to get them apart. <S> Wish I had not torn the whole door apart before I realized mine pops off easily. <S> But, now I can say I tore it apart and put it back together <S> and it's clean. <A> Same thing happened with my Kenmore 665.13594K600 Dishwasher. <S> Water was coming through the steam vent into the inside of the door assembly and then out the bottom onto the floor. <S> I popped out the vent on the door inside the washing area with a flathead screwdriver. <S> Then I was able to pop out the vent on the inner side of the door where the electronics are and both vents were filled with what looks like paper or cardboard <S> that became a mesh of light gray gunk. <S> I cleaned it out by hand and then with Q-tips to get the gunk stuck in the corners. <S> When I put it back together it ran with no leaks. <S> I'm happy this thread is here because it helped me a lot. <S> Hopefully more people can fix theirs without replacing the whole unit. <S> I would have been pretty disappointed in myself if I had replaced the washer because of some dirt buildup. <S> Cheers to everyone. <S> Matt-
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Water was getting in between the inner panel and the door through the air vent and dripping under the door.
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Is there any feasible way to work with live electrical wiring? Possible Duplicate: How do I install an electrical outlet on a live circuit? I remember back in my college days, having a badly damaged outlet plug on a built-in dresser/vanity right above my bed (the face had cracked away exposing the metal contacts for the hot and ground). My solution, not needing the plug at all, was simply to tape over it. However, had I put in a maintenance request, let's assume for a second that the most granular breaker circuit available would still shut down half the dorm floor and so it normally wouldn't be done. How then would an electrician or maintenance guy attempt to replace the outlet while keeping it live? Obviously the average joe working on his home wiring should ALWAYS kill the breaker (because otherwise he can kill himself), but if you HAD to work on a live circuit, as a professional electrician, how would you prepare/protect yourself? <Q> They don't shut down the powergrid when they have to climb a telephone pole. <S> ;) <S> The key with working with ANY electricity is to make sure you aren't grounded and providing a path for the current. <S> This typically involves using all sorts of various insulators... <S> rubber gloves... <S> rubber shoes...not using metal tools, not being on a metal ladder, etc, etc. <S> But yea, whenever possible, kill the power first. <A> If you have to ask the question you have no business messing around with a live circuit. <A> With one hand in your pocket. <S> But really, don't . <A> There are a variety of insulated tools available for when working on live circuits. <S> For example, here's a screwdriver insulated for 1000v, meaning, you will not get electrocuted through the tool. <S> The guys working the hydro poles have all sorts of gear rated for much higher voltages that can make contact with the lives wires while keeping the user safe. <S> Even then it is still risky. <S> There is also the concept of a Faraday Cage that is used in the field. <S> For example, when working on hydro lines from a helicopter. <S> As others have said, avoid it at all costs especially if you are not a professional. <A> Lots of good advise from previous answers. <S> I've been working electrical for over 40 years and often don't take my own advise about not working on hot wires and devices. <S> I am always ultra careful not to put myself in a position to complete a circuit or a path to ground. <S> I have to admit however <S> , I have taken dozens of "zingers" across my fingers and hand and have managed to destroy a lot of expensive Klien Tools. <S> YIKES that smarts! <S> But then no one ever accused me of being a real smart person, so take it from someone that has done everything wrong a few times............ <S> So as I say, not as I do......Turn off the breaker!!!!!!
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Professional electricians work on live circuits all the time.
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How can I upgrade a 3 wire appliance receptacle to a 4 wire receptacle? I have a cabin, wired for 220 and even has a sub-breaker near the outlet. There are 3 wires to the connector (two hots and the neutral). The range-top that I want to hook up is a 4-wire model (2 hots, neutral and ground.) When I put a tester's negative to the neutral, of course either of the hots shows 120v. When I touch the negative to the metal box, the same result with each of the hots (though I can't see any ground wire adapter on that metal box. Touching wallboard with the negative does NOT ground it; when I touch the negative to drywall and the positive to either of the hots, I get nothing. Questions: does this mean that the metal box is itself grounded somewhere/how (so I can just attach the ground wire to it?) Is there any cause for concern about wiring these directly, without a plug? <Q> Both of the previous answers are completely accurate. <S> New ranges all come with the new four wire plug, however you can convert to a three wire configuration if your box is grounded (in this case your's is) by connecting the ground lug to the box in the female plug. <S> Although this would not meet current code requirements, it is perfectly safe and this three wire configuration has been used for over 50 years before the new 4 wire config was established. <S> This method is a "common sense fix", but the totally proper way would be to run a new 8/3WG Cu or 6/3WG Alu wire to the panel, assuming a 50 Amp breaker is being used. <A> You might check and see if the wire is in conduit. <S> If so, take all doubt away and fish a ground wire through it. <S> If it metal conduit and no ground that means more places for the ground to fail, like if a connector is not tightened or corrosion. <S> If you can run a ground run the ground. <S> If an electrician is doing it, he would have to bring it up to code. <S> Maybe that's what the higher end range manufacturers expect. <S> It just takes the ease out of removing or changing appliances. <A> Is the box connected to the main panel with some sort of metal conduit(like EMT) <S> In that case it is probably used as ground <A> According to 250.122, a 10 gauge ground should be sufficient. <S> 250.120(C) <S> Equipment Grounding Conductors <S> Smaller Than 6 AWG.Equipment grounding conductors smaller than 6 AWG shall be protectedfrom physical damage by a raceway or cable armor except where run inhollow spaces of walls or partitions, where not subject to physicaldamage, or where protected from physical damage.
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Latest code asks for these to be 4 wires now. Given that there is a breaker near the outlet and assuming the breaker is in a panel and the panel has a ground bar, he should be able to make the receptacle totally compliant by simply running a protected ground wire the short distance to the panel. Most of the high end homes here hardwire their ranges.
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Can an incandescent light dimmer be used to dim LED lights? I have two dimmers which control 500 incandescent lights. Now I need to replace the lights with LEDs. Can I use the same dimmers? <Q> I got my son a good brand of LED A lamps that says dimmable. <S> When we use a regular dimmer they dim, but not like a regular lamp. <S> When you dim them with a regular dimmer you might not get the same dim from time to time, and on ours the dimming is through but you have have the slide to go. <S> We put these LED's in his fan lights at home and he keeps the full bright. <S> I know dealers of some of the retrofit LED trims and most of them say use the regular dimmer, but <S> the main reason for that is <S> so you don't have to buy new dimmers when replacing the lamps with LEd's. <S> Lutron makes a dimmer in the C.L family line that dims LED's and CFL's. <S> These dimmers have a little trim screw dial that you can adjust to lengthen the dimming portion of the dimmer <S> and you set it to be a full range dim on the dimmer. <S> Older electricians will probably remember the trim setting from older ceiling fans and adjusting them to the full range to tell you if it is on or off. <S> the fan motor would still turn the blades until it is clicked off. <S> The picture tells you what they look like and what you can dim with them. <S> The 3 way version of this is the same price as a plain incandescent dimmer, so that is what we use for both 3 way incandescent and 1p or 3way <S> LED or CFL dimming. <A> Simple answer is NO. <S> The difference is in the internal LED control and how line voltage is handled to supply the needs of the LED. <A> I continue to use a standard dimmer to control a track light set with 9 LED bulbs (18W each) and the 10th bulb is a standard 75W incandescent spot light bulb. <S> Without the incandescent bulb, the dimmer range for the LED spot lights is very narrow as predicted; with the incandescent bulb included, it appears to provide full dimmability of the entire set. <S> I believe it is because the single incandescent bulb keeps a steady voltage level from which the LED's rapid-switching circuitry can operate without going to a full-off position in the half cycle over which they operate. <A> They don't control as well as the new dimmers that are designed for LEDs and it will also drastically shorten the life span of the bulbs. <S> With old incandescents you are just reducing the voltage across the element but with LEDs you are lowering the voltage to the electronics which fire the LED. <S> It's like low voltage to your TV or stereo is not good. <S> Unfortunately the new dimmers for LEDs and CFLs are still quite expensive.
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There are LEDs on the market that can be dimmed and actually a few that will work with a standard dimmer. Go to a good electrical supply store and they can give you accurate information and some different choices.
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How should I hang Christmas lights where I don't have any gutters? I finally got around to hanging Christmas lights this year. I bought gutter clips so I wouldn't have to permanently install anything, but I just realized that I don't have gutters along a pitched portion of my roof. The soffit there isn't perforated, so I can't hang them through it either. I did notice the metal flashing (maybe it's flashing? someone correct me if I didn't use the right term) is hung with nails underneath the eaves. Can I nail into that without worrying about moisture problems? <Q> How about Magnetic Christmas Lights ? <S> I've never tried them, but if they use a descent magnet it would be a winner. <S> I've seen <S> these before a Walmart or places like that. <S> It looks like it would clip onto your shingles. <S> They might be good for the short term of Christmas <S> but I don't know how sun, wind and weather will affect their life. <A> I use small vinyl-coated cup hooks. <S> I screwed them my first xmas in this house 10 years ago and have never had a problem with them. <S> Just hook the lights on every year. <S> Easy up-easy down. <A> Would Velcro Christmas light hooks work? <S> I used them one year (not this exact brand though) to good effect. <A> I use the all-in-one clips from here - http://goo.gl/ldASe <S> After the first season of use they can become brittle and break, I usually have to replace a few of them every year <S> but they are the best I've used. <S> This is my house . <A> I have the same issue. <S> I simply drive very tiny finishing nails (the ones with slightly rounded heads) <S> every few feet and then used white wire ties to attach the light wires to the nails. <S> Once painted, the nails are barely visible in the summer. <S> (We live in an Eichler with a foam roof and, thus, don't have shingles or any kind of a real lip along the roof edge to which anything might be attached.) <A> By doing this you will save timeand headaches, and you would not have screw holes or nail holesin your wood. <S> I hope this helps.
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Reviewing the area that you would like to put your lightsI would recommend clipping the lights to the shingles withthe clips you are showing.
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Why is my dryer taking longer to dry clothes? I know nothing of dryers... but my dryer is taking longer and longer to dry clothes. I've heard this is very common among dryers and I was wondering what it might mean. Is there a specific part I should take a look at? I've heard the lint-catcher thing might need to be washed with soap and water, so I've done that with no affect. <Q> This usually happens because the dryer vent is getting clogged with lint (the lint-catcher isn't 100% effective, so some does escape). <S> You should clean it out regularly because a clogged vent can cause fires. <S> If the vent is short enough, you may be able to use a vacuum cleaner to clear it; otherwise use a dryer vent brush (can also be called a dryer duct brush) to reach the places the vacuum can't: <A> If you have a gas dryer and can see the flame that heats the dryer, then watch the flame. <S> When it clicks on the flame should point straight down the vent that goes up and into the drum. <S> This is how it should work when everything is clean. <S> If the flame burns like a candle, like the flame goes straight up an not follow the vent, then there is not proper air in the dryer. <S> This causes the dryer to heat up to quickly and cuts the heating cycle by reaching the thermostats cut-off temperature too quickly. <S> I'm not sure how you can tell on an electric dryer. <S> If you are any bit handy look up on the internet how to take the front off your dryer. <S> Then unplug the dryer and slide it out enough to get behind it and take the vent hose off. <S> Slide <S> the dryer out and take the front off while it is unplugged and vacuum the inside out really good, paying attention to the motor and getting it clean. <S> Get a brush like Niall C suggests and clean out the vent in the wall. <S> Hopefully your vent is less than the maximum length 25 ft (in the wall), taking footage off for 45's and 90's. <S> Too long a vent will cause your problem too. <S> If you have a plastic or vinyl hose that attaches between the wall and your dryer then replace it with Mylar, foil or aluminum. <S> When you put the dryer back make sure the hose is not crinkled or crimped anyplace. <S> A crimped hose will causes it to act like a dirty vent. <S> I was a Maytag repairman many years ago, luckily it was commercial only. <A> Check the vent on the outside for bird nests. <S> Make sure there is not water in the vent hose. <S> Sometimes condensation settles in the vent hose (if there's a dip in it) and cuts down on the airflow. <A> For my gas dryer, the solenoids seem to die most often. <S> The symptom is low heat and a long drying time.
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Check for a bunch of lint caught up in the vent near the dryer.
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Is there a high temperature glue that I can use on a cook top? We have a 1 year old Frigidaire gas range ( This model or a near sibling, purchased from Lowes). The burner grates appear to be painted cast-iron, while the surface below them is a polished and painted metal of some sort. To protect the lower surface from damage, the grates have several tiny feet. I'm not sure if the feet are rubber or plastic; they have a texture which is kinda half-way between. One of these feet has now fallen out. It has a quarter-inch diameter rod piece, which fits into a hole in the cast-iron. It doesn't look like anything broke (no residue from tabs on the back end of the foot) but it now freely comes out and won't stay. So, I'm looking for ways to re-attach the foot. I'm thinking maybe some form of high-heat industrial glue, which will bond to cast-iron and plastic. Food safe would probably be a plus; not that it's in contact with food but if the glue gave off fumes when exposed to heat that would be bad. Are there any glues which meet all these requirements? UPDATE I finally managed to talk to Frigidaire about this, and thought I'd update with the info they gave me in case anyone wants it in the future. They do sell an adhesive for this; it's terribly expensive. Also, these rubber feet things are not covered by warranty, which may explain why not many other people discuss this; it's a part that's expected to fail, and people just ignore it. Personally, I kinda like my stove top level and un-scratched. Similar to @Steven, they recommended a high-heat glue. When I asked about heat requirements, they suggested shopping in automotive supply stores for glues suitable for car engines. So I'm off to see how those compare. <Q> A silicon based glue should be able to withstand these temperatures. <S> Makes sure to verify the max temp on the package. <S> Silicon glue <A> I was poking around some to see what other were saying about this because I am having the same issue with my stove after replacing some of the rubber feet. <S> Found something on Amazon that looks like it would work. <S> Thought I would share. <S> Red Devil Industrial Grade Heat <S> Resistant Rtv Silicone SealantProduct Description <S> Sold as each. <S> 10.1 <S> Oz. <S> Cartridge. <S> Red. <S> When fully cured withstands -85 deg. <S> to 600 deg. <S> F (intermittent). <S> Apply at 10 to 100 deg. <S> F. Seals oven belts, heating elements in appliances, flanged pipe joints, fired heaters, access doors and drying ovens. <S> For porcelain, ceramic, glass, marble, fiberglass, painted surfaces, non-oily surfaces and most metals. <S> Resists cracking, shrinking, peeling and vibration. <S> WIthstands +25% joint movement. <S> Waterproof and weatherproof. <S> Red. <S> UL listed. <S> Meets military spec MIL-A-46106A. Meets FDA regulation <S> No. <S> 21 CFR 1772600 <S> when fully cured and washed. <S> Authorized by USDA for use in federally inspected meat and poultry plants. <S> Manufacturer's number: 0809/0I. Country of origin: United States. <S> Distributed by Red Devil, Inc. <A> It's moldable which is a huge plus.
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Sugru is a self-curing, food safe plastic that is relatively high heat tolerant.
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What could cause the ground wire on my baseboard heater to burn? On the photo below, you can see that the ground wire as burned. Description of what i know: the wire is connected on a 240V line to my baseboard heater the wire seems to be a AWG 14/2 I don't know about the AMP of the wire. I cannot see it. the breaker in the panel is a 20A that use 2 slots The baseboard heater is a little 500W I've just bought this house so i cannot tell if something wrong happened in the pass. Is it possible to test the wires with a tool to find reasons why it have burned? Maybe some data numbers will help me to find it out. Is it dangerous to put the baseboard heater back on this wire or should i open my wall and change the wire completely? <Q> Burnt wires are usually the result of a loose connection. <S> When a connection is not solid, wires can heat up. <S> This can be an even bigger problem with high amperage devices (heater, stoves, etc.). <S> This likely has been an issue for a long time, and finally reached the breaking point. <S> The problem with overheating wires, is that the issue becomes compounded over time. <S> Through constant heating/cooling cycles, the connection can become looser, the wire can become brittle, and the resistance in the wire can be increased. <S> The more the resistance of the wire increases, the hotter the wire gets. <S> Eventually, the wire can get hot enough to burn off the insulation. <S> When it gets to this point you hope the wire breaks causing a short (which will trip the breaker), or at least breaking the circuit so current can no longer flow. <S> The fact that the ground is burnt, is concerning. <S> You'll want to check the heater for a ground fault, to figure out why current is flowing in the ground. <S> Check to make sure the bare ground wires behind the thermostat are pushed to the back of the box, to prevent them from touching the bare terminals on the thermostat. <S> It's difficult to accurately diagnose issues like this, through the internet. <S> An electrician will be able to explain the cause to you, and tell you what the options are to remedy this problem. <A> If there was lightning strike, that could have caused an arc across loose connections, including the grounding wire. <S> But that is only one possible explanation among many. <S> The suggestion of hiring a licensed electrician in answer #1 still applies. <S> There are certain tests that can be done to figure this out, but these tests can be hazardous so I will not explain them here. <S> The heater could have a short circuit between one of the insulated 120 volt wires, or any point in the heating element, and its case, compounding the hazards. <A> I did some Googling yesterday and there is a 12/2 NM style romex for baseboards made in the color red. <S> Straight 240v, one red, one black and an undersized ground <S> (I would imagine 14 ga) which would be good for around <S> 4080 watts (240v x 20a = <S> 4800W /85% = <S> 4080 total allowable watts on 12 gauge wire). <S> Check your watts and make sure your not over 4000 watts. <S> If the wattage is over that then replace the wire. <S> Too much amperage over extended time will cause the wire to start blistering and melting. <S> If that is not the problem it looks like you can, if you have the room, cut off the bad part, if it's only the ground cut off that part and strip and tighten properly. <S> Since there is no 120v going to this make sure there are nothing operating at 120V on the heater. <S> Thermostat should be 240v, but if its 120v, the you've got the wrong wire going to it.
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If the wire does not break, you could be in much bigger trouble if the wire gets hot enough to start a fire. Typically the ground should not be carrying current, and so should not be heating up. My advice to you, would be to contact a local licensed electrician.
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How can I temporarily partition a large open space to create another room? I'm renting a small apartment which has one bedroom, near the front door there is a large open space that could easily be converted to a bedroom/office with the addition of a partition across a wall. Is there a way I can do this without making my apartment look like a surgery? Bear in mind I'm renting, so structural changes wouldn't be good, It'd just be nice to be able to wall the room off when I felt like it. Here is the room layout: <Q> Something like that could be used to divide the room. <S> I've also seen people use freestanding shelf units to divide a large room, that are open on both sides (like the IKEA EXPEDIT ), and then fill the shelves with books, decorative vases/bowls, and collectibles. <S> Neither option really creates a wall , but you're looking for something more temporary. <S> Anything tall enough to go to the ceiling will either need to be really wide for stability, or attach to the ceiling, which I don't think you want to do. <S> Note: <S> The linked products are used as examples of the type of furniture <S> I'm writing about. <S> They aren't meant as recommendations for specific products. <A> In the Middle East, I saw an attractive answer to this question. <S> Very large spaces are sometimes partitioned by rugs suspended on rails---like big curtains. <S> You have instant privacy, and your walls look great. <S> We have a large room at home <S> and I wanted to follow this system. <S> One room can instantly turn into two rooms. <S> Not the best solution for renting, but a quick and attractive way to divide a space. <A> Contractors sometimes use temporary divider systems for dust containment. <S> These systems use spring-loaded and/or adjustable poles to hold sheet plastic in place. <S> If you don't need to hang anything on the wall, and sound insulation is not important, you might consider using one of these systems with fabric instead of plastic. <S> Example: Speedy Wall <S> (found via a search on "temporary plastic partition" ). <S> Note that fabric costs more than you think, and many fabrics only look good on one side and/or let a lot of light through. <S> Another option described here is to build a stud wall to snugly fit into the space (using a strip of "sill plate sealer" to help ensure the snug fit). <S> This requires a small number of holes into the existing ceiling to ensure stability, but gives a solid-looking and feeling wall.
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The curtain / divider is on a rail close to the ceiling. You can get divider screens that are made of several reasonably lightweight panels connected together with hinges (like the IKEA RISÖR ). Rugs were too expensive, so I used colorful jute---a fabric that has a lot of texture.
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What do I need to use one winch motor independently on several different cables (for overhead storage)? I'm almost-nearly-started on installing a bunch of motorized ceiling-storage platforms in my garage. I was researching which winch/hoist to buy when I realized that I'd rather not buy one electric winch motor per platform. Is there a gearbox of some sort where I could hook up a single motor to a half-dozen (or so) reels, and select which reel gets rotated? I would hook each reel up to one ceiling-storage platform. Each reel would have to have a brake of its own, so when it's not engaged, it doesn't rotate. (The stuff on the ceiling needs to stay on the ceiling when the motor isn't hooked up to it.) Edit: I don't have access to a machine shop. I'm trying to figure out if it's cheaper to go for the gearbox, or just one winch per platform (at around $75 each). I'll build the platform and set up the pulleys myself. I figure that each platform + stuff will weigh around 200 pounds, and the current plan will have enough pulleys to have a 4:1 lift ratio. (I'm going to use a single cable that goes back and forth to the ceiling several times, for stability.) <Q> I have two of these Racor Heavy Lifts in my garage now. <S> I also had one in my old house. <S> They now have a rod that you can connect to a drill to raise and lower the platforms. <S> At $127 they are very affordable and work quite well. <S> I store my lawnmower on it in the winter and the snowblower on it in the summer along with some other items that are not used very often like my wheelbarrow. <A> At 4:1, 200 lbs should not be difficult to lift by hand. <S> Save yourself the $75 and just buy a rope cleat to secure the lift cable. <A> The first thing that comes to mind for me, would be to attach multiple gears to a long axle driven by a motor. <S> So the first pieces you'd need are gears with collars, that would fit just over the axle. <S> Putting a hole in the collar, would give you a way to engage the axle and make the gear spin with it. <S> So you'd need some type of "pin" to fit in the hole, and connect to the axle. <S> The idea here is that when the "pin" is not engaged, the axle would spin while the gear slips and stays stationary. <S> Engaging the "pin", would cause axle and gear to spin together. <S> The next thing you'd need is some type of spacers, to prevent the gears from sliding along the length of the axle. <S> This will allow you to have multiple gears along the axle, while keeping them each in place and engaged with the gear on the reels. <S> For each cable you want to control, you'll need a winch with a gear like this. <S> Just remove the handle, and have the gear on the axle engage the gear on the winch. <S> These type of winches should already have a locking mechanism, that prevents the cable from coming unwound. <S> So once you raise the load, you shouldn't have to worry about it falling. <S> You should be able to add as many gears as you need to the axle, so you can control each winch independently. <S> Keep in mind <S> this is just a basic idea; there are surely design flaws that would need to be worked out, but it might be enough to spark your creativity.
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Since you don't want to drive all the winches at once, you'd have to devise a way for the axle to spin independently of each gear.
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Best way to keep a PEX run in an attic (above a foyer) from freezing? I plan on running PEX pipes both hot and cold across 16 feet of unheated attic space above a foyer. The foyer is 16' long and is off the kitchen, it isn't heated directly but is part of the house; it is usually colder than the rest of the house, mostly due to the cat door and slider the dogs go in and out of. There is insulation along the ceiling, underneath where I will be running the pipes. What is the best way to keep the pipes from freezing? Would an insulation pipe jacket be enough to keep the water in it from freezing or should I also run a long heating cable? I also considered insulating along the roof but it is a tight crawlspace and not much room in there to work. This is in New England so some days it gets pretty cold. <Q> You are definitely running a risk of freezing these lines in an unheated space. <S> It is never wise to run water lines in an outside wall or above an insulated ceiling in an unheated space. <S> Perhaps you can do one of the following: <S> Run <S> the lines under the floor in the basement (not unheated crawl space) where freezing will be much less likely. <S> If you have to drill holes in ceiling joists, be sure they are at least 2 inches from ceiling to prevent accidental puncturing from drywall screws. <S> Apply the insulation over the lines. <S> Thermostatically controlled heat tape can work, but be absolutely sure it is installed properly and if possible use a heat tape that you can use pipe insulation over. <S> Not all heat tapes allow use of pipe insulation due to overheating of the PEX. <S> If you do have to run in this area, be sure there are no drafts that can come to bear on the tubing. <S> Freezing is always faster if a cold draft blows on a water line. <S> I wish I had a foolproof method for you to use. <S> Just be cautious, monitor the conditions and have a water shut off handy. <S> Although PEX will handle a lot of freezing without bursting, a leak is going to be a very expensive fix and a mess to clean up. <S> Good Luck <A> Pex in the attic simply needs to be run BELOW the insulation. <S> Put it against the ceiling drywall, and it will never get particularly cold. <S> The problem is, lots of installers don't do this. <S> My contractor actually went to some trouble to hang the pex up high. <S> I had to go through and undo all the clamps and put it down below the insulation, but it wasn't too big a deal. <S> Get it LOW and make sure there's more insulation above it than below it, and it will be fine in all but the most ridiculous of climates. <A> I have PEX in my attic <S> and it was not properly secured to the rafters. <S> This has caused some sections to rise above the blown in insulation. <S> IT WILL FREEZE, mine freezes everyday if I don't use the fixtures in each bathroom at least sometime between dusk and dawn for a good while. <A> Additional information as this winter tests out badly routed plumbing. <S> PEX that gets water frozen inside it stretches and expands over time. <S> The weak point is fittings. <S> They don't use the type fittings where they expand the PEX to go over a plastic fitting around here <S> so I don't know how those hold up. <S> Keep the fittings out of the freeze zone, and summer cabin owners recommend having a gravity drain so the pipe doesn't grow or else charge the system with RV antifreeze. <S> My former neighbor had a blowout in the soffit in his new house built quite recently. <S> It was a couple weeks ago where we had a snap down into the teens, a fitting let go. <S> As a plumbing system, PEX is a lot more forgiving, but not invulnerable. <S> If you do freeze up, PEX is an insulator, it will take longer after heating the containing area for water in it to melt. <S> Be careful with any sort of direct heat application (should I have to say no torches?). <A> My research on topic: Use PEX 'A' - it's better designed to flex; PEX is not guaranteed not to freeze or rupture; so use the better PEX grade; if possible avoid Grade 'B' and 'C'; use PEX 'A' if you have to go this method. <S> Will freeze and certainly can rupture, but less likely than copper pipes. <S> Make sure to have a good manifold system with individual line shutoffs. <S> Stay out of attic if possible; but if you must go through attic, well insulate the tubing; pay attention to #3 & 4 above. <S> Keep a lot of towels ready just in case.
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Have an indoor water supply cutoff and an indoor pressure relief value on manifold or below manifold to relieve pressure on tubing during deep freezes; simply allowing some of the water lines to drip may not be sufficient; vacuum may prevent all lines from being relieved of pressure. Run the lines under the insulation in your ceiling next to the heated drywall. Why water lines are being run through a soffit area, only the builder knows. Depending on the fitting, it can crack, the crimp rings can be stretched leading to a leak from the fitting or the PEX slipping off under pressure. Cheapness, ignorance, either unforgivable.
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How to properly wire a ceiling light fixture? I rent an apartment and a tenant installed ceiling fan that was not well secured to the ceiling. I removed the fan and attempted to re-install the original light fixture after he moved out. I am having issues with the wiring. There are 2 black wires and 2 white wires in the ceiling. On the fixture itself there are 2 black wires and 2 white wires as well as a small ground wire. I try to wire it white to white and black to black. When I turn the power back on, the light switch is off but the light comes on. If I turn the switch on it's blows the breaker? Should I have 4 connections 2 x black to black and 2 x white to white or should I have two connections - all black together under 1 cap and all white together under 1 cap? What am I missing? How should this be properly wired? Or is there something else going wrong (maybe an issue with the fixture)? <Q> The power (from the breaker) is likely at the light fixture. <S> When you hook black to black and white to white, the light is powered directly from the breaker. <S> In this configuration, when you flip the switch on you create a short through the switch. <S> What you need to do is hook it up like this. <S> Notice <S> the white wire that runs between the switch and the light has a black stripe on it (in above image), that lets anybody that works on this light in the future know that the wire is switched. <S> You can mark the wire using a bit of electrical tape, or a marker. <S> First Turn off the breaker, and verify the power is off using a non-contact voltage tester. <S> Now pick one set of wires to work with first (one black and one white from the same cable). <S> Turn the switch to the on position, and use a multimeter to check continuity between the two wires. <S> If the wires are connected (low resistance), these are the switched wires. <S> If not (infinite resistance), check the other set of wires. <S> If neither pair pass the test, contact an electrician. <S> If at any time you don't feel comfortable doing this work, or you don't have the proper tools to complete the task. <S> Contact a local licensed electrician. <A> I'm willing to bet that the line from the breaker goes directly to the fixture, and then there's a line run to the switch. <S> To test this, get a meter. <S> Unhook the fixture and label the blacks, B1 and B2. <S> Make sure there's no contact/shorts and turn the breaker on. <S> If I'm right, then one of the blacks should show 120V with ONE of the whites. <S> This would be the line to the breaker. <S> The other pair should show nothing - with the switch both on and off. <S> Label the hot pair. <S> Turn the breaker off. <S> Now, flip the switch on, and do a continuity check on the cold pair. <S> It should show a low resistance with the switch on, and open line with the switch off. <S> If (and only if) this testing checks out, then you can wire up the light. <S> Put a piece of red or blue tape on the cold black and cold white to indicate that these go to the switch. <S> Open up the switch and label the other ends with the same colour tape. <S> Now the coloured white should go to the black terminal of the lamp, and the uncoloured white (back to the breaker) should go to the white terminal of the lamp. <S> Also ground the fixture with a bit of bare copper. <S> Short instructions: After testing, wire <S> the blacks together, and the two whites to the lamp. <S> Label everything. <A> It can also be a bad switch. <S> The same thing just happened to me. <S> Using black and white the power was on all of the time. <S> I wired it up correctly using the red, but then the light wouldn't come on. <S> All of a sudden it came on by itself. <S> I played with the switch and found that it was intermittent! <S> Replace it with a new 49 cent switch (15 amp) from the junk box in the garage and BINGO - fixed! <S> Thank you, offending switch for your confession!
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Figuring out which wires come from the breaker, and which go to the switch will require some tools.
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How can I drill a hole in a small stick of wood? I need to make a few arrow shafts hollow, they're about 1/2" thick. Example: There would have to be enough space in the middle to put iron wire in it (the thickness of an old coat hanger) <Q> This sounds like a long pencil with a wire instead of a lead. <S> There are a number of videos and pictures showing how pencils are made on the web. <S> What it boils down to is that first you make the holes <S> (grooves actually, since you do it in halves), and then you make the sticks round. <S> Much easier than the other way around. <S> If you need to make a lot of them I think it will be safer and more efficient to do adapt the pencil manufacturing method to your job. <A> You'll probably want to split the shafts, create the hole, and then glue them back together. <S> You'll generally lose half the shaft during the splitting, so you'll end up with half as many completed shafts as you start with. <S> Mark <S> the centerline on two shafts. <S> You'll probably want to use some sort of jig to hold the shafts for this; if you try to do it freehand, even with a marking gauge, it's likely that the line will twist around the shaft to some degree. <S> Use a band saw to cut the shafts down their length, keeping the blade to one side of the line. <S> You'll want to just leave the line. <S> At this point, you'll have two half-round pieces, and two smaller pieces. <S> Discard the smaller pieces. <S> Sand to the line so that the flat side of the shafts is flat and smooth and the profile of each shaft is a perfect semicircle. <S> Set up a router in a router table with a round nosed bit <S> that's the same diameter as that of the hole you want in the final shaft. <S> Adjust the router table fence to place the center of shaft over the center of the bit. <S> Adjust the height of the bit to the radius of the hole. <S> Run each shaft half against the fence and over the (spinning) bit to make a groove down the length of the flat side. <S> Glue the two halves together to make a circular shaft, optionally inserting wire or other desired filling into the groove before gluing. <S> Wrap tightly with electrical tape, strong elastic bands, or something similar to clamp while the glue cures. <A> Caleb's advice is probably the most practical way to do this.
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A possible alternative is a special type of drill known as a gun drill that can drill very deep holes.
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Which floor should be done first when updating a multi-family residence? I'd like to renovate a 3 family rental property but don't know which floor is best to start on. The house was built in 1896. The electrical was recently updated prior to purchasing it in 2008. The kitchens and bathrooms are in dire need and this is the area where I am not sure if it is better to do the 3rd floor or the 1st floor first if I need to replace plumbing. I also can't have all 3 apts vacant at the same time. The 1st floor is leaving Jan 1st 2012 but paying until end feb due to breaking her lease 3 months early (may 2012) so I have 2 free months to start on the first floor. Of course back then, they put all the bathrooms under neath stair wells. The 2nd floor bathroom is the least attractive since it is so small and the sloped ceiling. The 1st is then next worst and the 3rd floor bathroom is the most modern/attractive since it is not under a staircase. What are some things to consider? If I started on the first floor how do can I prepare so that when I am ready to refurbish the 2nd (and 3rd) floor bathroom(s) I can do it without ripping into the 1 st floor? The 2nd floor is not vacant. <Q> I don't think there's a good answer to this because plumbing needs a full stack, from the drain in the ground, to the vent in the roof. <S> When you move utilities from one location to another, if you haven't changed the room above, you're stuck with lines on both new and old locations in the floors you've renovated until you're done with the renovation. <S> And if you try to move utilities without first renovating the rooms below, you either have to open the rooms up below or run connections from the new back to the old location. <S> In the end, I fear that you're going to spend more money trying to do it one part at a time rather than saving up until later and doing it all at once. <S> To partially answer your question, when we are building a new home, we construct from the ground up, for structure, and it's also the source of utility lines so they go the same way. <S> When we finish the build, we go from the top down. <S> This way we aren't tracking dirt over finished carpeting and scratching up freshly painted walls. <A> Speaking as a multiple multi-unit landlord myself. <S> If you have to update the internal infrastucture, then close the whole building, work bottom up on the infrastructure, then top down on the finish work so you can rent out the quieter upper floors first. <S> If you can't do that cause you need cashflow <S> you have bigger issues - you're over exposed. <S> Consider selling. <A> As Karl Katzke said have a contingency plan for if things go wrong with the plumbing. <S> Renters not having running water could become a very large issue very quickly. <S> Another thing to look out for is if you are pulling permits for the work, there may be requirements for you to bring various other things up to code in the process. <S> With a replacement of a drain pipe I've had localities want everything hooked to the pipe brought up to code at the same time (sink, laundry) which could complicate your plans. <S> If you end up just replacing fixtures you shouldn't run into anything that complicated. <A> That being said, assuming your replacing plaster and lath with drywall, it is just drywall. <S> Cut out what you need, make a patch and mud over. <S> If theres a common wall across all 3 floors, you could use that wall as a main utility wall and run as much as you can though there. <S> It may obviously not work well for plumbing, but for electrical, cable, network, etc... it may not be a bad idea. <S> and I know for a fact after remodeling a bedroom adjacent to the 2nd floor bathroom, that I'll need to open up a wall in the dining room on the 1st floor to redo the plumbing on the 2nd floor. <S> I'm obviously not happy about this (the dining room is still plaster and lath, but the floors have been refinished) <S> but so it is when the time comes <S> and I'll deal with it appropriately. <S> If your remodeling for the better (not just to repair) I'd think most tenants would be fine with a little construction, as long as it gives them a better living space in the end. <A> It's probably best to work from the ground floor up. <S> When you have the ceiling open above you, you'll be able to see a lot of the issues with the units above you, which will help to guide your renovations of those units. <S> The problem is that you will likely end up discovering problems that require the ceiling below it to be open. <S> I would see if you can work out some arrangement with the tenants in the unit above to have some temporary plumbing outages while you fix things like rusted cast-iron pipes below the tub and toilet above, replacing plumbing supply lines that supply both the ground floor and the two floors above, and fixing issues from old leaks that you discover such as rotted or weakened wood or places where structure was cut to run plumbing. <S> Trying to do this work from above generally requires gutting the bathroom AND tearing up the floor; doing this work from below is quite a bit less invasive. <S> As you're working from the ground floor up, you might consider installing shutoff valves that will let you isolate bathrooms or entire apartments from the rest of the building without interrupting water flow to the rest of the building. <S> And while we're at it, figure out a contingency plan for what happens if you need to shut the plumbing off in the building overnight... or longer. <S> An apartment building I was in where this happened due to a burst pipe in one ground floor unit offered free access to a gym, which had showers, reimbursement of laundromat expenses, and had a porta-potty out front. <S> It sucked, but it got us through.
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I would probably start at the highest floor and work my way down if I didn't want to open up walls in the lower floors after they've been finished. In our house we started on the 1st floor with the kitchen
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Can I using a 3-phase connection to power 1-phase AC unit? I have preparation for an AC connection with 3-phase 220V 3X16A breaker. I want to install a 220V 1-phase unit, which also needs a 16A breaker. The physical connection has screw-on terminals, so there is no worry about plug compatibility. I have spoken to 3 electricians: one says that I need only change the 3-phase breaker to 3 separate 1-phase breakers, and leave the 2 additional phases disconnected and unused in the AC connection. The other two electricians say that there is no problem leaving the 3-phase breaker and just leaving the unused phases disconnected. All of them agree that there is no worry about the shared neutral of the connections, and say there is no need to re-wire the neutral. Should I listen to the majority? I tend to trust them more since they are basically telling me that they don't have to work (do nothing = no get paid), so I'm more suspicious of a guy telling me I need to pay him to do the needed changes. I'm asking both in terms of code-correctness and more importantly, safety for myself, the AC unit and the house (electrocution is bad, blown AC unit is bad, fire is bad). Edit: to clarify, mains voltage in Israel (where I live) is 220V. Most older homes have 1-phase 40A (or even 25A) breakers, and new homes (like my own) have 3-phase 3X25A breakers. The main usage for the 3-phase is AC units and electric cooktops and ovens. The rest of the electrical wiring in the house is distributed across the three phases to even out the load. <Q> Both are correct. <S> The 3-phase breaker is just 3 separate 1-phase breakers with a handle physically connected so shutting off one shuts off all. <S> Code correctness depends on your local jurisdiction. <S> The 3 separate breakers would be more convenient with 3 separate circuits since you won't turn so much off if one of them goes off. <S> But there may be a rule that requires this in some location. <A> I have no idea what your power supply is in Israel, however, the previous answer speaks to 3 phase in the USA. <S> Residential service here does not use 3 phase. <S> Phase is a vector voltage calculation determined by a delta or WYE transformer, used in industrial or service distribution on high voltage lines. <S> In over 40 years in the business, I have never seen a 3 phase panel or breaker in a typical home, unless it is some kind of mansion. <S> If anyone wants to talk code correctness, they better have some reference. <S> The previous answer is inaccurate and misleading. <S> In 120/240 residential service, the two 120VAC lines supplied by the utility are called legs or branches, never phases. <S> A phase is completely different. <S> I am sorry to sound testy here, but answers on this site need to be accurate, especially if someone wants to quote code requirements. <S> I'll apologize in a heartbeat if Skaperen can reference the NEC 3 phase residential service and a 3 phase breaker sections. <A> I found this link by mistake <S> so it's been a while <S> since you asked your question, Eli Iser, so I hope it all worked out for you. <S> My main reason for responding is shirlock homes answer, tho <S> it appears he enjoys what he does <S> I have been an electrician since 1977 and although we do very little residential <S> and we are commercial - industrial <S> , We do have a service department and am concerned that he may have comments that do not relate to all. <S> Here in Florida we have three phase power to many houses that are not mansion that use it normally for the AC units. <S> I'm concerned shirlock homes <S> is not an actual electrician when he asked to be shown the code section for the 'three phase residential' section <S> , I'm looking in my 2008 and 2011 NEC code book <S> and I don't see a section that is called "three phase commercial" either. <S> Skaperen response was 100% correct. <S> We have inspectors that will allow you to use a 3 phase breaker for single phase (240 volt) turning off only two legs and we have some who will not. <S> shirlock homes can reference code section 90-4 in the NEC on that one. <S> As far as his comment on 'legs' or 'branches' he again shows his inexperience, I have never talked to the power company (which I do on a weekly basis) and been told they where giving me 'legs' or 'branches', it's always been 'single phase' or 'three phase', 3 wire or 4 wire, 120/240v, 120/208v or 277/480v. <S> Also I have never called the supply house and asked for a 2 leg breaker it's a 1 pole breaker, 2 pole breaker or 3 pole breaker. <S> I don't mean to be testy here <S> but when your helping someone who is a novice you should actually try to answer the question and not be a smarty pants. <S> As far as Israel, I do not know how the power is supplied to the customer or distributed thru the panel <S> so I'm <S> sorry, greg 'a good ole redneck electrician from Florida' <A> The electrician that says three separate is most accurate as far as code safety. <S> The other two know it will work but all phases are tied into three ganged breakers. <S> So, if there are separate breakers for each phase it only trips one phase the other two can remain off or unused.
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In virtually all USA locations, separate uses of each phase allows either breaker setup, while use of all 3 phases on the same device requires the 3-phase common handle breaker.
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What options are available to hide a TV in the bedroom? I'm having a wardrobe fitted in the master bedroom of our house, and I'm in a bit of a conundrum as to where I'm going to put the TV. The room itself isn't big, when the wardrobe's fitted it will look something like this: The wardrobe isn't going to be big enough to fit the TV inside as well as having enough room for the storage we need. The TV size is 40", we watch a lot of TV in the bedroom and, while I wouldn't mind if I had to reduce the size a little (perhaps as low as 32"), I'd prefer not to have the extra expense. We've looked over several solutions but unable to find anything suitable. Wall-mounted, swivel TV bracket We feel this would look untidy as we have several boxes connecting (Sky box, blu-ray) with wires. A wireless HD solution would fix this too, but again, it's even more expense. Ceiling mounted TV lift This is the dream solution, but those things are ridiculously expensive. Ottoman with TV lift Slightly cheaper than the ceiling mount idea, but taking extra space at the end of the bed and shrinking the available floor space. Bed with TV lift at the foot We have a really nice bed and we're reluctant to change it. Of course, this is also an expensive option. I had an idea of my own, but I'm not sure how viable it is. I wondered if there were any mounts which would allow the TV to lift up into a horizontal position and slide backwards into the wardrobe, laying flat on a shelf above the hanging rails. This would mean we would have to live without sliding doors, but it seems like a neat solution to the problem. I've seen this bracket , but it's only for small TVs. Does anyone have any better ideas, or a way to implement my own idea? EDIT The dimensions of the nook, which will effectively be the external space of the wardrobe, are about W74" x D36" x H95". <Q> This is how I solved exactly the same problem in my bedroom: <A> I don't understand why having several boxes is a problem for the swivel wall mount, but not for a ceiling/etc mount? <S> Either way you have to have the boxes somewhere, and I assume you didn't intend for them to be hanging from the ceiling.. <S> The wall mount is simple. <S> You can use a mount like this: Put all your other equipment in the wardrobe/closet. <S> Get a couple long HDMI cables (or whatever you need) to connect to the TV. <S> Alternatively, you can also get wall-mount shelves for mounting equipment, if you don't mind seeing it sitting out (and of course, you can use any random shelf from anywhere, if you like): <S> (source: monoprice.com ) <S> You can use an IR Repeater <S> so you're able to control the devices even if you can't see them. <S> You can use some kind of cable wrap or wire raceway (eg Wiremold) to route the wires over (which looks WAY neater than just having a bundle of wires): <A> I like the ceiling idea. <S> If you could find someone with some fab / welding skills it shouldn't be too much work to make one up. <S> You usually just need a flat piece of steel with some holes drilled through it for the back of the TV. <S> It's probably way cheaper to go that route than it is to buy one of the commercial editions. <A> Here are a couple reasons why: 18 Good Reasons to Get the TV Out of Your Bedroom <S> Why a TV Does NOT Belong in the Bedroom <S> Ok now with that out of the way, if you insist on the tv in the room, then there are a lot of ways. <S> One person mentioned a projector, another mentioned a wall mount, both good options. <S> If it were me, I would not keep the bed in this configuration for this small room (without the TV <S> my configuration below is even better). <S> Instead, I would flip the bed so there was more living space. <S> Depending on where noise is coming from, put the bed on the opposite side. <S> If noise comes from inside, choose the first with the headboard by the window. <S> If noise comes from outside, then put the headboard on the other side away from the window; the benefit also of this second choice is there won't be any glare on the TV during the day. <S> Attach the TV to the side wall using a fully articulating wall mount. <S> Move into place when you watch, and the might even be space to keep it out depending on the size of your bed and the size of your room. <S> I based this on the to-size dimensions from your example picture. <S> Likely, you might have more space. <S> I would probably choose the second option unless there was noise coming from another person inside the apartment through the wall. <S> Option 1: <S> Option 2: <S> Hope <S> this helps! <S> But please don't put the TV in your bedroom.
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Alternatively, if you're really adventurous, route the wires through the walls (and/or ceiling). First of all, your TV should NOT be in your bedroom. Then it just needs to be connected to either a pipe or square stick that is then welded to a plate on the ceiling (or goes through the ceiling). Since you're on an exterior wall this would be a huge pain (due to vapour barrier and insulation), and personally, I wouldn't do it. You also might be able to remove your footboard to save another few inches.
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How do I remove hard deposits from my glass shower door? I have a problem with regards to my frameless glass shower door because I don't usually clean it regularly. What happens is that the lower edge of the glass door is already very cloudy and is very coarse in texture. I tried to use some vinegar and water dipped with newspaper since I prefer using natural cleaners but it just won't work. Maybe it has accumulated too much that it can hardly be removed. Do you have any other idea on what natural method to use for removing it? If possible, I don't want to use the common glass cleaners sold on the market. That's the last choice for me. <Q> It may work better if it's heated first. <S> Then try wiping with a used dryer sheet. <S> If that doesn't work, then you'll probably have to resort to something like CLR , at least for the initial cleaning. <A> For major buildup of insoluble calcium and magnesium salts, including soap scum, citric acid is a better choice than acetic acid. <S> Unlike acetic acid, citrate is a pretty good chelator . <S> It binds tightly to metal ions, and remains soluble. <S> That allows the counterion of your soap scum complex free to dissolve too. <S> However, unlike vinegar, citric acid dries to a powder, so you have to clean that up after you clean up the soap scum. <S> Also unlike vinegar, citric acid doesn't stink. <S> I use vinegar for light work, and citric acid for when things get nasty. <S> Citric acid is sold in the gricery store as coffee maker cleaner (check the label) and in coops and health food stores that sell bulk spices etc. <A> I've found that the Mr. Clean Magic Erasers work well on this. <S> I am in no way associated with this product, I've just had good experiences using it <A> Wayfaring Stranger has the right of it. <S> Here in Dallas we have the worst limescale/soap scum buildup I've experienced. <S> Having tried CLR, vinegar, and several other remedies, I was not prepared for how effective, easy, and odorless <S> citric acid could be. <S> My suggestion for a cheap and ready source is a bathroom cleaner in a spray bottle (not the dry abrasive mix) that includes Citric Acid as the active ingredient (preferably 6% or more). <A> I HAVE TRIED ALL OF THE REMEDIES AND THEY PROVIDE <S> TERRIBLE RESULTS. <S> The following recipe WILL absolutely work on the worst of all soap scum on shower glass doors & hard water spots & stains . <S> You must go to the store and buy a new BAR OF LAVA HAND SOAP - not any other thing or brand except LAVA BAR SOAP.. <S> Get the glass wet and proceed to rub that bar of soap on an area with a little bit of pressure until small amount of lather occurs. <S> Wipe for about 30-60 seconds while keeping it wet. <S> After 30-60 seconds of rubbing in one spot, stop and wipe <S> it clean & dry and LOOK at it ! <S> It and say wow that guy knows all about this stuff! <S> It will not scratch the glass. <S> After you're done the entire door wipe it down with water , isopropyl alcohol or glass cleaner and then dry it . <S> Now proceed to use a automobile wax of your choice to wax the shower glass door 2 times in a row . <S> If you want the absolute longest . <S> Of time that this will last you will have to buy a ceramic paint sealant located in the automotive wax section wherever you shop for car products. <S> You will love the long lasting results & you can thank me later about this bcuz its the ONLY thing that works for soap scum on glass. <S> This is one of the only ways to remove "etched in" water spots on automotive glass also. <A> Had this same problem for a long time and now I've solved it. <S> Always squeegee the door after showering and: <S> When a film develops spray the wet door with Ka-Boom, lightly wiping it with a plastic kitchen scrub pad. <S> The pad won't scratch the glass and easily removes the lime-scale. <S> You can buy it in most stores. <A> Mix a combination of water, white vinegar, and dish soap (not dishwashing detergent) in equal parts into a spray bottle. <S> Gently shake it before use. <S> Spray it on the surfaces that you want to clean and let it sit for at least 10 minutes. <S> The longer it sits, the less elbow grease you will have to use. <S> After sitting for the stated time, wipe and rinse off the surface.
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Try using straight vinegar, right from a spray bottle. Citric acid is far better at dissolving the calcium-magnesium-soap scum mix than vinegar.
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How can I create a platform on my stairs strong enough to support a ladder? I live in a two-story condo and need to reach a spot on the wall high above my staircase to do some handy work. A ladder is the only way I can do this (I am stating this explicitly in order to avoid responses of Well, tell us exactly what you are doing so we can possibly find an alternative ). A scaffold for a staircase would be nice, but there's no place around here that rents them out for a reasonable price. I came across an idea on YouTube to set a ladder up against a wall and then lay a board across the staircase and one of the rungs on the ladder, but there's no way I can transport a board of such length in my sedan. As I am sorta forced to find a way to do this on my own, I came upon the dangerous idea of creating a platform by stacking a few cinder blocks on a lower step and putting a sheet of plywood across the blocks and a higher step. I have a rail that will serve as backing for the plywood. Conceptually, it seems like a sound idea, but I am coming to you guys for alternatives that might help me avoid breaking a part of my body. Update: Since I am in dire need of a super quick solution and couldn't find a PiViT per Tester's recommendation, I picked up a Werner 22' multi-use ladder from Lowe's. Tester gets the mark for best answer since his answer addresses my question. Even though I haven't tried it, I know it would work. <Q> I also stumbled across this product <S> The PiViT Ladder tool , though you'd need two for a step ladder. <A> I know this is an old thread, but in case there are any new readers using it as a resource... <S> We've released a new tool to address this need. <S> It's a small, compact platform for using ladders on stairs, with adjustable height to fit any staircase. <S> I hope this helps someone down the road. <S> You can find it online ( www.ladder-aide.com ), or in paint and home improvement stores. <A> This can easily be accomplished with a bakers scaffold (you can buy/rent). <S> They're totally adjustable. <S> I'm in construction for twenty years now and really, there's no better way to go.
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If you're using an extension ladder, they sell Ladder leveling feet .
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How can I troubleshoot a ceiling fan light kit Issue? I have an issue with my ceiling fan light; the light is on, then eventually over time it starts flickering off and on, eventually over time shutting off. I'll switch the light off, and then switch it back on, but no light. After a little while, I can get the light back on. Eventually it will start flickering again and shutoff. While it's off, I tested the fan, and it works. Seems to me this is a loose wire in the light kit? Or maybe we need to replace the light kit altogether? <Q> It could be one of a few things, like the prong in the lamp socket, or where the wires are riveted to the socket, or the factory crimp/wire nuts not having all the wires securely attached. <S> Any place there is a wire connection could affect it. <S> DIY box stores should have a school house light kit for under $10.00. <A> Is it possible <S> this is the same problem I'm having with my Hunter fan's lite. <S> The watt governor (to keep the watts below 190 max) seems to have failed. <S> I have tried changing out the bulbs (both in size and cfl) but both still "disco" flash when the light is turned on at the switch. <S> No remote. <S> Internet sites say to wire around the Watt Governor by connecting White to White, and Black to Red. <S> I have Neutral <S> In (W), Live <S> In (B), Light Out (R), and Common Out (W). <S> Looking for a little more detailed wiring instructions. <S> All the web site info says by-passing <S> the Watt Governor will solve my problem. <S> Just need some help on how to do that. <S> There is another smaller box with a Red and White wire. <S> I don't know what that is. <S> CBB61 300VAC 50/60hz. <S> MAX TEMP +80 c22.2 no. <S> 190 <S> E 163532 08 <S> This problem is happening since the 2008 government reg to have these stepdowns installed on lite kits. <S> If your fan/lite is newer, I'm betting this is your problem too. <S> * <S> Note: <S> Ran across a link to the federal register. <S> The reg is in 10 CFR Part 430, effective January 11, 2007. <S> It requires ceiling fan light kits manufactured after January 1, 2007 to be designed such that they cannot operate over 190 watts. <S> It applies to all manufacturers. <S> How they achieve the limit is up to them. <S> It's an energy conservation step, not a safety one. <S> I can't imagine how that made sense to anyone, but it nevertheless is the the rule. <A> I just bypassed the watt governor in my Hunter fan light. <S> I had the same problem with flickering lights which progressed to the light coming on for two seconds and then going out. <S> Tie the black wire to the black and white wire from the square connector that mates with the connector from the fan. <S> I think I will post on Facebook a picture of this device.
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To bypass the device, tie the white wire from the light to the bundle of white wires with the wire nut.
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Where can I find plans for building a chicken coop? I was hoping to build a chicken coupe for 3-4 chickens. Does anyone know where I can find some plans (preferably free) for building a decent chicken coop? It doesn't have to be the Taj Mahal, but I don't want it to be an eyesore either. Some key features I'd like are a hatch that makes it easy to get eggs and a tray that makes it easy to clean out manure. <Q> Back Yard Chickens has lots of different designs, with instructions on how to build them. <S> While you're there, you can even get some recipes for cooking your chickens (if you ever get tired of taking care of them, or get really hard up for cash). <A> I used plans purchased from The Garden Coop . <S> They're not that expensive and included a complete parts list to get started. <S> The egg doors are part of the plan, but the removable tray is not. <S> I'm an amateur at this, and yet I found the plans well-explained and simple enough to make some modifications along the way without much trouble. <A> The plans include all manner of agricultural buildings and structures. <S> When I googled it just now, this is the first one I came across, but there are others: http://bioengr.ag.utk.edu/extension/extpubs/PlanList97.htm#Poultry Plans
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There are several online repositories of DIY building plans that have been compiled over the years by agricultural extension services.
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How to remove bad smell from rubbish chute? When opening the rubbish chute, there is always a disgusting smell. Is there any way to remove it such that when I open to throw my rubbish, I will not smell it? <Q> There are however some things simple and complex you can do to reduce it. <S> First, you need to clean it and ensure that any stuck food/grime is dislodged. <S> Give it a hose-down (pressure washer if you can) and then disinfect/deodourize it. <S> If there is crap stuck in there, it doesn't matter what else you do, it will keep smelling. <S> Make sure that whatever you throw down it is in a sealed bag; do not throw loose scraps down. <S> If it doesn't already have one, a flap on the opening will help keep some of the smell down - usually you have to push you garbage through it <S> and then it springs back <S> closed. <S> If you can control it, empty the garbage bin at the bottom frequently <S> so food does not sit down there rotting (and smelling for ages). <S> As a commenter mentioned, positive pressure in the room will keep the smell from leaking into the room. <S> Condo's use this mainly for fire prevention <S> but it also helps keep smells at bay (or in the originating condo at least). <S> A fan alone will not create the pressure, you need to be bringing in outside air at a faster rate then it escapes so that there is always positive pressure. <A> Carefully splatter bleach all over the sides of chute. <S> I used to have to do it for a 3 story apartment building. <A> Clean it. <S> Hold your breath. <S> Use some air freshener. <S> Deal with it <S> (it is after all, a rubbish chute.) <A> That way the smell only goes out.
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To some degree, your garbage chute is always going to smell a bit like garbage. You could set up some sort of fan / blower mechanism that creates negative pressure inside the trash chute.
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How do I remove a fish smell from my freezer? Yesterday, the electricity was out for a while and I guess some of the fish in my freezer warmed up and juices started flowing out of its bag and into the vent. Now there is a fishy scent creeping up from the back of the fridge. Is this something I can just wait out or should I do something about it? I did clean out the freezer and everything looks immaculate in there now. <Q> After cleaning it well, put a piece of coal in the freezer; this will remove any smells from it within few hours, maybe a day. <S> I used to put a mid-sized piece of coal inside the refrigerator all the time. <S> This was a piece of advice from my mother and always worked. <A> Look for a tray or pan that catches condensation beneath the fridge. <S> Try cleaning that. <S> Newspaper and kraft paper help absorb odors, so you can find some places to line with a folded newspaper or brown paper bag. <S> Some layers under the ice cube tray and on the bottom of the freezer. <S> Baking soda also works, in an open container or just a whole open box. <S> If none of that does the trick ... <S> Long story, but it seemed like a good idea at the time. <S> The fridge was empty, unplugged, and full of roaches. <S> My skin crawls just remembering that apartment. <S> The net result was that the fridge smelled like roach spray. <S> I had to run it with the door open for several days, empty, pouring cool air into the room, before the smell finally disappeared. <A> In one of my units I had a smelly freezer. <S> Cleaning all the surfaces didn't seem to help. <S> I had to unscrew the plastic lining on the bottom of it <S> and there was some disgusting ooze underneath. <S> Probably from some meat juices that leaked there. <S> So keep looking or a spot where spoiled juices might have leaked
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I once fumigated a roach infested apartment with the refrigerator door open. It should just slide out.
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What should go between a wood plank sub floor and a hardwood strip floor I am about to install a hardwood floor into a room in my 1905 farmhouse. The subfloor is 8-12" wide 1" thick planks. The floor I am installing is 2-1/4" prefinished solid hickory tongue and groove. Reading books and web how-tos on this a few have mentioned that there should be a layer of "Construction Paper" between the subfloor and the floor strips. The accompanying pictures show stuff that is brown, paperlike and comes in 3' or 4' rolls. I have never seen the like for sale in my local home improvement stores. What is this "Construction paper"? and is it really necessary? <Q> It's also known as rosin paper : <S> Its main purpose is to stop air leaking through cracks in the subfloor and floor which is especially important if the space below the floor is unconditioned. <S> (You'll also find claims that it prevents the floor from squeaking or muffles sound transmission through the floor.) <A> Although I am not a flooring installer or expert, what I have read and seen contradicts the answers that have been given so far. <S> I don't want to down-vote them, because I don't feel that I am an authority on hardwood floors, but I do want to present the information that I have been given for your consideration. <S> I think you should call a few flooring suppliers for the real skinny. <S> They will gladly tell you how to use their products. <S> What I have seen when taking up oak floors is brown kraft paper - NOT rosin paper. <S> Kraft paper is basically the cheapest general purpose rolled paper you can get. <S> It provides a clean surface to position the boards when installing, and provides an air barrier if the space below the subfloor is not heated/conditioned. <S> Also, I have seen NO paper - just right over the subfloor. <A> Silicone vapor shield (white) was recommended to me by the hardwood floor supplier. <S> I used it and will probably use it again. <S> I have previously used <S> I don't think the rosin paper does much AFA vapor barrier.
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The manufacturer claims superior moisture protection (mainly a factor over slabs), presumably from below. I feel it provides a slick surface for adjusting the flooring during installation. 15# felt (dirty due to tar oozing ) and rosin paper.
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What is the purpose of a bathroom exhaust fan? Okay I actually do understand the purpose of the bathroom fan; it gets the steam out of the bathroom after a super hot shower, right? Well turns out I never turn it on. I suppose I don't shower in sauna temperatures. Also we tend to shower with the door open. Or, is the point that it rids the room of odors? Thus, the nickname 'fart fan' The duct from the bathroom fan simply terminates in the attic space. I've been reading the threads explaining the reasons to vent it to the outdoors, but I don't want to. I have a beautiful house with new cedar siding and I don't want to ugly it up with a big vent sitting in the middle of the gable. So here's the question; why? Can't I simply not use the fan? The steam or stink doesn't bother me. Do I need to put an end on the vent I don't use? <Q> Since yours vents into your attic space I would never use it either. <S> Lots of lawsuits against housing tracks have happened in humid areas where builders just put the cheapest fan in and a couple years later the residents find mold. <S> Most bathrooms that are bigger than a closet have undersized fans and don't really do anything but make noise. <S> Building code changes will happen, if not all ready changed, that homes will have to have a certain air exchange per hour. <S> This is because the modern homes are being built pretty much air tight, or about as close to it as you can get with doors, windows and other entry points for air to get in a house. <S> Builders are starting to use bath fans for this, and a lot of them are being designed to be used 24/7, with very little noise. <S> Either way, do not pump moisture into attic spaces. <A> If your bathroom doesn't have a window and no fan then that all that moist air is going to create a perfect environment for mold and other unpleasant things. <S> Also, excessive humidity will probably make it's way into your walls <S> and I you have a wooden house <S> then it will start to rot. <S> That's why it's a bad idea for a vent to exhaust to the attic. <S> It's just going to cause same problems there instead of bathroom <A> As others have said you don't want to let humid air into your attic space. <S> You will not only get mold as others have mentioned, but the moisture will reduce the effectiveness of the insulation in your attic. <S> While I understand not wanting to have a vent on your roof, I would recommend either getting a low unobtrusive roof vent on the back slope of the roof or possible putting a vent out the eave or wall. <A> Moisture removal. <S> "Every bathroom requires an openable window that provides at least 1.5 square ft of air flow area when open – <S> 2006 IRC [303.3] OR mechanical type ventilation: <S> 50 CFM intermittent or 20 CFM continuous operation – 2006 IRC [303.3X] <S> " <S> See this related thread for other comments: <S> How do I refinish a bathroom ceiling after it got moldy and peeled? <A> Why do you use a bathroom vent fan? <S> To remove moisture. <S> Why remove moisture? <S> Moisture penetrates latex paint and sheetrock. <S> Ceiling sheetrock will retain so much moisture, you can see the paper backing is damp. <S> As I found out much to my chagrin way back when I had to open up the wall on a bathroom that had a long failed power vent (black mold). <S> Needless to say, the walls came out, a new fan went in and was used ever after. <S> Other tales from the Pacific Northwest brought to you by incessant damp in bathrooms, "The Amazing Descending Throne", an oft told tale by one of my Dad's friends who had it happen while he was sitting on it. <S> Plywood subfloor doesn't hold up too well to the damp either. <A> The purpose of a bathroom exhaust fan or bathroom window is to vent humid air outdoors. <S> When I bought my house, it did not have a bathroom fan. <S> I had grown up in a house with a bathroom fan, and thought perhaps it wasn't necessary to vent the moisture, after all, since it didn't make sense to me to open the window in the winter. <S> I was wrong. <S> After a year or two, the ceiling texture started cracking and falling off, and around the same time I noticed black spots developing on the ceiling, as well. <S> Apparently the purpose of venting moist air is to prevent mold from growing and to prevent the moisture from damaging your ceiling, walls, and cabinets.
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Probably the biggest use of a bathroom vent fan is to help keep mold down in bathrooms, especially in humid areas.
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fixing stripped screw in soft-wood door frame? Possible Duplicate: How do I rehang a wooden door with worn screw holes? As you can see in the below image, the upper screw holding in the lock plate (name?) has stripped completely out of the crappy soft wood frame. The plate is loose, and the door catches on it further damaging the plate and the door. I cannot relocate the plate, as that's well beyond my abilities as a DIY guy. What's the best way to secure the screw in the hole? Epoxy? Is simple hot glue good enough? I don't need to ever get it back out again... I just want it in tight so that plate doesn't catch on things and the door can be closed without worry... Thank you! <Q> Remove the plate and drill out the hole and fill it with glue and a dowel. <S> I've used a 3/8" oak dowel in the past for this. <S> Use a good wood glue and after it dries, shave it down with a wood chisel. <S> Use touch-up paint if needed. <S> Make sure you allow the glue to dry as directions say and pre-drill into the dowel. <S> The screw should fit tight then. <A> Depending what's behind it, you might be able to just use a longer screw so that you can catch the stud behind it instead of just the frame. <S> If this is not possible then the dowel route is best. <A> My quick and dirty fix for this is just to fill the hole with as many wooden matches as you can force in (obviously, remove the match heads first :) Probably not as secure as filling the hole with a hardwood dowel, but much easier & quicker. <A> This only works if the hole is just barely bigger than it needs to be for the screw to bite.
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For a quick fix I've had luck breaking off wooden match sticks or toothpicks into the enlarged hole and then screwing into that.
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Why is my furnace blower noisy when it starts? The blower of my furnace makes a loud noise every time it starts. I understand that a large fan and the movement of large amounts of air will produce some noise. What I am puzzled by is the noise that sounds like a "starter." The noise only lasts for about a second or two; then there is just the expected sound of blowing air. Could it be a motor failure problem at its infancy, or could it be related to the capacitor start on the motor? The blower pushes air without a hitch. Is this a normal condition that is heard on all blower motors? Additional details: My system is a direct drive motor driven, "squirrel cage" type fan, hot air, oil fired furnace. I am aware of the sounds of the fuel pump and then ignition of oil rumbling in the fire box (I don't know if that's the right term) but anyway the sound that I am trying to troubleshoot is the noise when the fan motor starts (my best description is that of a car starter) It may be spelled RRen-nen-nen-nen and then just the sound of moving air after the fan gets to full speed. There is a capacitor on the motor, could it be a malfunctioning capacitor? I have lived in an apartment building for 30 years and now in a single family dwelling, and have never heard any heating system noises. My concern is in what to replace; motor & capacitor, or just motor, or just capacitor or is that just a noise that I am going to have to get used to? <Q> It might make noise until the blower starts spinning. <S> It you have a belt, check the tension. <A> It handles the motor that pumps air and oil, the flame sensor inside the unit, and the ignitor . <S> The ignitor is a gap between two metal poles and runs at high voltage in order to create a spark between the poles (and thus plenty of heat). <S> The order that things start up (motor or ignitor first) varies between controllers. <S> Either way, the first few seconds of operation involve the motor and the ignitor running until the fire starts or the controller decides it has been potentially spraying flammable liquids for too long without seeing a fire. <S> It's likely in your case that the ignitor is running, then the blower. <S> The blower is louder. <S> I've had controllers that run the ignitor before the blower and after the blower. <A> What type of fuel does your furnace use? <S> I have an oil burning furnace, and when the oil first ignites, there is a "whomp" noise from the sudden expansion of gasses in the burner box. <S> This happens at the same time that the blower motor turns on, and could easily be mistaken for coming from the blower or motor.
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The controller circuit for your furnace (usually a little box to the right of the motor with lights, a reset button, and some wires connected to terminals) is responsible for the operation of your furnace. Maybe you have a belt that is slipping.
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Acceptable ground to neutral voltage? First of all I'm pretty sure I know the theory behind the effect. I know about the inductive and capacitive coupling, about 3-phase balance problems and about ground bounce, so this question isn't about normality of existence of voltage between ground and neutral line. What I want to know is in general are there established levels at which the voltage is normal, at which I should start investigating the voltage and at which I should kill power and start panicking? !!!PLEASE READ THIS FIRST BEFORE ANSWERING!!! Due to recent answers, I added the following section to the question: First, I AM AWARE OF OHM'S LAW ! I hoped that it would be obvious from the second sentence of the question, but it isn't. Second, the type of answer I'm looking for is something like: "The difference in a properly installed should be below XX V because it is written so in regulation YY". Bonus points for information on how number XX has been derived. Alternatively acceptable answer would be: "There's no limit in any regulatory documents because of ZZZ." if it's accompanied by a good description of ZZZ. I will down-vote answers which basically say: Ohm's law. I know that this sounds extremely rude, but unfortunately I don't see any other way to explain exactly what I'm asking. If you don't know the answer, that's fine by me. <Q> The best I could do was to dig up a fine print note (FPN) in the National Electrical Code (NEC). <S> In theory, there is no limit (as stated in other answers). <S> In practice, the limit is when things stop working. <S> In this FPN, the limit is 3-5%. <S> In reality, the limit is around 1-2%. <S> NEC 2008 <S> 210.19 Conductors — Minimum Ampacity and Size. <S> (A) <S> Branch Circuits <S> Not More Than 600 Volts. <S> (1) General. <S> FPN <S> No. <S> 4: <S> Conductors for branch circuits as defined in Article 100, sized to prevent a voltage drop exceeding 3 percent at thefarthest outlet of power, heating, and lighting loads, or combinationsof such loads, and where the maximum total voltage drop on bothfeeders and branch circuits to the farthest outlet does not exceed 5percent, provide reasonable efficiency of operation. <S> See FPN No. 2 of215.2(A)(3) for voltage drop on feeder conductors. <S> This Fine Print Note <S> (FPN) says that to provide " reasonable efficiency of operation ", the voltage drop of the branch circuit to the furthest point should not exceed 3%. <S> And that the total voltage drop, including the feeders should not exceed 5%. <S> 120V <S> * 3% = <S> 3.6V <S> 120V <S> * 5% = <S> 6V <S> Given this information. <S> Note: Fine print notes are informational only and are not enforceable as requirements of the National Electrical Code. <A> VOLTAGE BETWEEN NEUTRAL AND GROUND Proper Installation. <S> In a proper neutral-to-ground installation, the voltage between the neutral conductor and any metal part of the electrical system will be equal to the voltage drop of the neutral conductor in accordance with the following: At service equipment, the voltage difference between the neutral conductor and the service equipment case will be 0 volts. <S> At panelboards, the voltage difference between the neutral conductor and the equipment grounding conductor (panelboard case) will be equal to the voltage drop of the feeder neutral conductor. <S> At branch circuits, the voltage difference between the neutral conductor and the equipment ground (ground contacts of the receptacle) will be equal to the voltage drop of the feeder and branch circuit neutral conductors. <S> Source <A> NEC recommends (but does not require) that there is no more than 3% drop on a branch circuit. <S> On a 120V circuit, that would be 3.6V, which would be split across the hot and the neutral, so you wouldn't want to see more than 1.8V on the neutral. <A> It depend on load to load senstivity. <S> It depent on voltage difference between Vnw.r.tg and Vlw.r.tg at any perticular time t. <S> If this difference exceed the load sensitivity of load, then it will get blown out. <S> As it is AC voltage <S> Vnwrtg can be in synch or out of synch therefore can be addition or subtraction at time t and can vary. <S> For example if load sensitivity is 20v to 25v and Vnwrtg is 200v and Vlwetg is 220v and perfectly in synch so that any perticular time t voltage don,t exceed 20v, then also no problem.
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You should start to examine your wiring, if you measure anything near 3V neutral to ground.
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How to tell if a house is equipped for a gas stove I live in a townhouse. My electric range died, so I'm looking to replaec it with a gas stove. But how do I know if the house is already set up with the required pipes, etc.? I suspect that I do have at least the gas tank and some pipes, because I have a gas fireplace. But I'm not sure where the gas tank is, and that's in the living room. I've heard that I will need at least the pipes (to go all the way into the kitchen), and then an extension to plug it into my stove. But is this feasible for a ten-year old house? Is this going to be expensive? <Q> Any house can be equipted to run a gas stove. <S> Some houses have gas service from the utility, others have on-site tanks. <S> The process is similar to running new pipes or electrical circuits. <S> It is easier to do <S> if the area under your kitchen is not finished, otherwise expect a lot of holes. <S> The cost will depend on the distance from the gas main and the complexity of the run. <S> Cost will also depend on where you live. <S> Just for an example, in Toronto, ON, Canada, it cost me $700 CAD to add hook-ups for my BBQ and stove. <S> The BBQ run was outside while the stove run was done in my unfinished basement. <S> Make sure you contact a licensed installer/contractor. <S> Don't mess with gas yourself. <A> Since you already have a gas fireplace (natural gas or propane) then that means you have some kind of gas service. <S> It is entirely possible to have a gas range. <S> As Steven says in previous answer, the cost is going to vary depending on the path the contractor has to take to run a line to the range location. <S> If the gas service in in an unfinished basement or accessible through en exterior wall, then the install should not be all that expensive. <S> With the amount of info you have supplied, it is impossible to answer with more detail. <S> But DO NOT attempt to do this yourself, get a quote from a licensed gas contractor. <S> Good Luck. <A> The other answers say don't do this yourself , but that is not necessarily good advice. <S> Different jurisdictions have different rules. <S> In mine, it is okay to install gas lines yourself provided a mechanical building permit is issued and inspections are done and passed. <S> For installing a gas fireplace insert, water heater, and gas stove, I explain my saga here and here .
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If you already have gas service or some type of gas distribution in your house, then you can add a stove by having a licensed contractor run a line to your kitchen.
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How do I crimp an F-connector onto RG-6 cable? My current home project is putting RG-6 in the walls instead of through the cold-air returns and across the carpet between rooms. Thanks to some forethought during previous remodeling projects, laying the cable and getting it in the walls is the easy part. Right now, I am stuck on crimping the stuff. I bought a crimper, a 50 pack of F-connectors, and a 500' box of quad-shield RG-6. No matter what I do, the connectors slide off the end after crimping. I followed the instructions that came with the crimper, googled, watched some youtube videos, but nothing seems to work. What I do is strip off 1/4 inch around the inner connector, then an additional 1/4 inch of the outer sheath. Inside there is foil and what I can best describe as tinsel. I fold this back, leaving the inner layer of foil on the plastic insulation. I then push on the F connector, using my channel-lock to grip it while pushing. The problem is that it appears not to slide all the way on. The connector has two circular parts, and it looks like the inner one is supposed to go between two layers of the cable. However, it barely goes in and it starts pushing and distorting the outer layer before it just won't go anymore. If I crimp it at this point, it doesn't have anything to hold on to and it slides right off. I can also see some of the foil and metal sticking out from underneath the connector, leading me to believe it is not on all the way. What am I doing wrong? Edit: the issue was I was using dual-shield connectors with quad-shield cable. At first I thought they would work with both, but I checked the package again and I was wrong. However, I chose to pick the answer to use compression connectors since I went that route and it really was a lot easier with better results. Edit: here is what I bought. I'm planning on buying compression tools and trying that instead. Crimper F-connectors Cable <Q> I have the same problem with the two piece, so I use the compression type. <S> They cost more money, but they are simply worth it. <S> I've never had one pull off. <S> This is the style most cable and satellite companies use. <S> They flatten out the end. <S> Use cutters like this. <S> Always use a good cable stripper, never use a razor knife. <S> You never want to nick the inner copper wire. <S> The compression connector can run as high as $200.00. <S> I've seen this economy compression tool at Lowes for under $25.00 and it includes a hand full of connectors. <S> I can't say you will never have problems with them. <S> but I've never had a problem with ghosts or snow on my tv <S> 's since I started using these tools. <S> Added <S> Please remember for every splice or connector you loose around 25%, or it could be worse for bad connections. <S> Don't daisy chain connections. <A> While I agree with the other answer about using a compression tool , and the other tips provided, it sounds like your issue is mainly getting the connector properly onto the coax. <S> Or sometimes it is cold and <S> your hands hurt and you just can't eaisly push on the connector. <S> For these scenarios, they make tools which have a male end on it which you screw the connector onto, and then use to push it onto the cable, down past the inner layers of the cable. <S> This particular tool also has 2 ends for flaring the cable, though I've never personally needed to do that. <A> I'm not really sure what connectors you are using, but it is possible you have a mismatch between the cable and connector. <S> Usually the bare center conductor needs to be about 1/2" long (can be trimmed after install if too long), then about 1/4" of center conductor insulation exposed, followed by stripping apx 1/2" of outer insulation. <S> The inner most barrel of the connector should fit under ALL the foils and ground braid, thus sandwiching the shielding and foils between the two metal sleeves of the connector. <S> Some connectors only want to crimp the shields within the connector while others require that the outer insulation be sandwiched with the shields before crimping. <S> It almost sounds to me that your cable is a bit too large in diameter for the outer insulation to fit comfortably between the two sleeves before crimping, perhaps because you have premium shielded cable and connectors for single braid shielding cable. <S> An other option are the new twist on type connectors from Ideal. <S> They have a diagram of how to prep the cable, then simply insert the end of the cable and twist until tight. <S> I have used them a lot lately with good results. <S> To be honest, I'm guessing here as I can't see what you have for the deminsional specs of the wire and connector.
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With higher-end cable, the connectors usually go on pretty easily, but I've found some cheaper cable to be a bit stubborn. Never use electrical diagonal cutters or dykes to cut cable.
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How can I stop the icemaker on a GE fridge from overflowing water? I have a French door stainless steel GE fridge made by Samsung. The water overflows or splashes out of the icemaker andd then freezes in the ice compartment under the bucket, making it impossible to get out without thawing it. This is an icemaker in the upper left corner of the refrigerator compartment. I have leveled the unit and I have replaced the water solenoid valve because I thought it might be sticking on and letting in too much water. Is there a time adjustment for how long to let the water run? Is it dependent on my water pressure? This fridge worked fine for a couple of years but then started doing this. Link to this model I asked this question about it a little over a year ago: Previous question <Q> I threw in the towel and called an applicance guy. <S> He looked at evertyhing I did, and could see no broken parts. <S> Putting our heads together, we came to the conclusion that its a design flaw. <S> We wound up doing two things - 1) <S> We opened up the area at the bottom of the water funnel to water into the mold faster and 2) I made a small "fence" at the back of the funnel out of aluminum duct tape to stop water from overflowing. <S> These two things together seem to have done the trick. <A> On most ice makers there is a short tube that water goes through to reach the "trough" <S> were it freezes and is pushed out of into a container that holds the ice cubes. <S> Normally the water in this tube drains out when the valve shuts off. <S> If water in this tube freezes, then water runs down the outside of the dispenser or even sprays when the valve turns on. <S> You can remove the ice maker and thaw it out, or just use a hair dryer and melt the ice in the tube. <S> I had this happen to me a few months ago. <S> I was ready to replace ice maker until I found the iced up tube while removing it. <A> There is a screw on a cam that operates the microswitch to cut off the water supply solenoid. <S> Turn this to control the time the fill water runs. <A> Ice makers are typically operated by a timer and are designed with a specific water pressure and flow rate in mind. <S> You can get a pressure measuring tool that screws on to a garden spigot from any of the big box stores. <S> Make sure to check the pressure when all other valves are closed and the hot water heater has been running, since you may have a check valve in the line and experience high water pressure only after the hot water heater has been on. <S> As a backup option, I'd consider partially closing the valve to the ice maker line. <S> You'll still have an initial surge of high water pressure, but the flow will be restricted. <S> This may require some careful fine tuning to get just enough water to fill the tray without overflowing. <A> I have an Amana Model # ABB2223DEQ with a bottom freezer. <S> Same problem, water over flowing the ice maker into the ice cube bin below. <S> Water was also getting frozen in the tube that runs to the tray from outside rear of the refrigerator. <S> I have well water and my saddle valve was tapped into the water supply upstream (before) <S> the water-softener. <S> This was allowing hard water minerals to get into the valve behind the refrigerator and the ice maker itself. <S> So I replaced the line and did drill a new hole 1/8" drill bit into the water supply downstream (after) the water-softener. <S> Hand drilling is necessary (shut-off house water first) because on the back of the refrigerator it says explicitly not to use a self-piercing valve (to make the hole). <S> The hole can be better made manually with a drill and it will be less prone to clog, but it's actually ok to use the valve with self-piercing tip <S> but after you have drilled the hole using 1/8" drill bit. <S> Then I tried the ice maker but still had the same overflow problem. <S> Then I removed the ice maker and melted ice blockage in the ice maker where the tube entered it using warm water and cleaned the whole thing. <S> My last ice maker had a ton of hard water (white powder/scaling/paint chipping) deposits all over it. <S> This fairly new one still looks pretty good. <S> Reinstalled it. <S> From outside of the freezer each time, I watched to make sure feed tube went into its proper slot. <S> I tried ice maker and still had water overflow problem. <S> Finally, yesterday I stuck my head all the way into the back of the freezer and checked refill tube placement... <S> it was wrong. <S> I realigned it and voila, it works perfectly now. <S> That tube was the big culprit. <S> (In side-by-side freezer-refrigerators I suggest getting a mirror and carefully examining the feeder tubes' placement. <A> Short answer, replace the water valve that supplies water to the ice maker. <S> It is a double valve, so you will also be replacing the water dispenser valve at the same time. <S> Problem solved. <A> I had my ice maker constantly overflowing and creating blocks of ice in the freezer ice bin. <S> I adjusted the icemaker screw in the freezer and it did nothing. <S> I replaced the fridge's water intake valve and it did nothing. <S> Here is what worked: <S> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F187152/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 <S> I installed that on the tiny plastic input line. <S> And then dialed it in. <S> Now my ice maker rocks... and no longer creates blocks of ice... <S> (note: I have NOTHING to do with this water pressure valve gadget, it's just the thing I used to solve the issue.)
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I removed the ice maker and used a long screwdriver to make sure that the feed tube had no ice blockage. I realize this is an old question, but for anyone else that comes across this: First thing I would check is the house water pressure.
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Should I install hardwood flooring under my kitchen cabinets? I'm doing a total kitchen renovation with solid hardwood flooring. Do I go hardwood all the way under the cabinets to the wall or stop just past the toe kick and finish the rest with ply of the same thickness? <Q> In your situation, using real 3/4" hardwood flooring should be a lifetime floor. <S> I cannot see any reason to remove it as any other type of flooring in the future could be installed right over it. <S> The actual extra amount of hardwood used under the cabinet area is minimal, and will make installation easier and faster than working around the cabinet footprint. <A> You can do either, but in my opinion it's better to use plywood as the base because: it's a lot cheaper than hardwood flooring. <S> if you need to replace the hardwood flooring at some point in the future, it will be a lot easier to remove just the hardwoods: <S> if you run planks under the cabinets, you'll have to cut them off where they go under the toe kick which will be a lot trickier with the cabinets in place. <A> I ran mine all the way to the wall. <S> Turned out to be a good thing because I made a cabinet change which pushed everything down six inches.
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Since it is much more likely to have some type of cabinet upgrade rather than actually needing to remove the hardwood, I would install the hardwood wall to wall and install cabinets over it.
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How do I relight the pilot light on my Magic Chef stove? I have a Magic Chef stove (model: 31203KAW) which is not lighting/igniting. We're using a butane lighter to light the stove-top burners (the gas still flows) but I'm nervous about turning on the oven "just to check" (visions of suicidal housewives are dancing in my head). How do I relight the pilot light... if that's even what I need to do? Help please. <Q> Do you have the manual for the thing? <S> I've done a little poking around (I even found a bunch of parts diagrams at Sears website ), and I'm getting the impression that it's got a spark ignition system, not a pilot. <S> Is the range plugged in? <S> Is there any chance that the circuit it's on has tripped <S> it's breaker? <S> Once it ignites you turn it further to whatever setting you want. <S> Does yours have anything similar? <S> Does it make a 'clicking' noise when you start the gas? <S> Also, has it ever worked? <S> If so, when did it stop working? <S> Did you make any changes to the kitchen at that time? <A> Open the drawer under the oven. <S> Inside towards the back near the center along the top there is a metal prong sticking out - like a mini-sprinkler pipe. <S> At the end of the pipe is something that looks like a sprinkler head. <S> This is where the pilot light is located and where it must be lit. <S> Set the oven's temperature to "Off", remove the stove's oven control knob, and push in on the metal control rod there while holding a lighter under that sprinkler head— this should cause the pilot to light. <S> Hold the control rod in for a few seconds to allow the pilot to warm up the oven's thermocouple, then release it. <S> If the pilot stays lit, you are all set! <S> If not, try again and hold the control rod down longer. <S> All the other answers on here are wrong: lots of stoves in modern apartments still have pilot lights. <S> They are no big deal and are very common and safe except in certain very rare situations. <S> It is true that a lot of new stoves have spark systems but <S> pilot light set-ups are still very common. <A> Courtesy of a Google image search , I found the wiring diagram for your stove (see below). <S> It shows that your stove-top burners are lit by spark ignitors and that your oven is also run by an electric ignition system. <S> It's most likely that the oven is done with a hot coil resistor. <S> If you look under the oven, you'll see it glowing while you've got a rolling flame next to it. <S> Just in case somebody does have one that has a pilot light, the complicated part is that pilot light systems come with safety valves. <S> If the flame is out then the gas valve will close because the thermocouple / thermopile won't be generating any electricity to hold it open. <S> You need to find the system that allows you to let gas flow without the flame and hold it open for a few seconds after the flame has started. . <A> Here's what worked for me. <S> The manual says to push in the oven knob while applying flame to the thermocouple. <S> That hasn't worked so well for me, so following up on someone else's suggestion, I took the knob off and pushed in the control rod while applying flame to the thermocouple. <S> It worked like a charm! <S> Apparently just pushing in on the knob <S> doesn't get the gas flowing to the thermocouple.
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I've got a cooktop with a spark ignition system, and it has a special 'light' setting on the gas control - you turn it to 'light', which turns on the gas and starts the sparker.
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Why would an outdoor floodlight only work in test mode? I have a new outdoor floodlight that works in test mode. Adjusting the range works. It turns on when you walk in front of it. But as soon as I switch it to 1 minute, 5 minutes, or 10 minutes... the sensor doesn't work at all. The red light is flashing so I know it's on. I have tried in bright conditions and in very dark conditions but it doesn't work. I tried in auto mode and manual mode but nothing. The thing is it works in test mode which lasts for 5-10 seconds so I know it's working. What else could I try before returning it? <Q> I assume you have turned it off and on to reset it after initial installation. <S> Just return it, there is no reason if it is powered to malfunction other than defective. <S> Good Luck. <A> If it has a dusk sensor and you turn it on at night it is probably trying to calibrate itself. <S> Try turning it on with at least an hour of daylight <S> left <S> so it calibrates that it is light to dark outside. <A> I’m an idiot! <S> My son in law <S> and I could only get the light to come on in test mode. <S> WE WERE WORKING ON THE LIGHT IN BROAD DAYLIGHT!!! <S> We finally gave up and just left it on high sensor and ten minutes. <S> Around 6:30 this evening, it was dark as midnight, all of a sudden the light came on and stayed on for 10 minutes. <S> If you are working on the light during daylight, you have to cover the sensor with tape and let it sit for a few minutes before it works the way it would at night. <A> You guys know that some of these sensors are designed to work on a light switch? <S> You can blink the light switch to override the sensor and keep the light on. <S> then you blink the switch a few times to turn it back to sensor. <S> I accidentally got hold of one of these, blew my mind troubleshooting. <S> Evidently they called it a 'feature'. <S> When I wired up mine, I ran parallel the sensor with a light switch. <S> this way either can control the light. <S> Works really well, with no blinking the switch like a chump. <S> good luck with this one.... <A> OK I'm a smart ass female that works at a very known chain improvement store. <S> I'm really humble towards everyone. <S> I have worked with lighting for many of years. <S> I would say at least 15. <S> Any question that is about lighting its best to figure out the answer. <S> I love my job and I want to be the best I can be, especially when I'm having the same problem. <S> If your sensor light only works in test mode and when you turn it to minute mode the red light flashes and the light does not turn on heres the problem, more than likely it is receiving light from somewhere else and for the gentleman that had four lines hooked up and one worked properly and the other three are doing the same thing as the problem above then the circuit hit the light that came on first. <S> The light then hit the photo cell of the next light and a domino effect happened which caused the next three lights not to work. <S> should not cause the photo sensor not to work. <S> To reset your light you must keep power off of it at least 20 minutes. <S> You can also try flipping your switch repeatedly up and down three to five times. <S> Just try these things and put a piece of tape of your photos black tape that is electric tape <S> And u will be sure this is the problem. <S> I hope I've helped someone, I had the same problem it took me forever to figure this out <S> I knew it wasn't the light <A> We had this problem with two lights. <S> We finished the install about an hour prior to dusk and they wouldn't work properly. <S> We gave them some time to adjust their sensors and when we went out to check them after it got dark, they both turned on and off as they should have.
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Another possibility is it may need to be reset, sometimes you can hit the switch three times it will stay on that
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What are some methods to get rid of and prevent pink mold in the bathroom? I have some pink mold on the seam where the bathtub connects to my wall tiles. There's also some on the grout on some of my tiles. I've tried to clean them with ajax. It doesn't get it all off. I've also tried to spray the tub and the tiles with a 50/50 solution of vinegar/water and that didn't fully get rid of them. How do I get rid of the pink mold? Once I get rid of it, how do I keep it off? <Q> The pink stuff is a bacterial biofilm. <S> Cleaning agents containing bleach work well to kill the stuff. <A> I think what you are seeing could be fluoride that is put in the water by the utility company. <S> Try CLR or Clorox clean-up – <A> <A> Using Oxiclean powder, I made a thick paste, applied it with an old toothbrush, and let it sit overnight. <S> Then used an old electric toothbrush to remove the paste. <S> Worked well. <S> Also tried sprinkling a heavy layer of baking soda then spraying with vinegar so it bubbled. <S> Left it on for several hours then removed with a toothbrush. <S> Worked well enough to be a feasible alternative to the Oxiclean method. <S> Several points to keep in mind when reading this answer: <S> Used it for grout; no vinyl or silicone edges involved. <S> Both methods made the floor slick; had to rinse and wipe several times to "unslick" it. <S> No reason to think the pink stuff was mold. <S> When touched, it felt slimy. <S> My guess is that it's a combination of soaps, shampoos, and as mentioned in another reply, flouride. <S> This is a cleaning solution. <S> The holy grail would be the clean-and-prevent solution sought in the original question.
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Hydrogen peroxide poured directly on the pink grime can be effective at removing it, especially if coupled with light scrubbing with an old toothbrush or sponge), should you wish to use a bleach alternative.
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How Do I Power A 220 Water Heater Off Two 110 Breakers First off I know this is not the best idea. To start my 200 Amp Main has suffered a partial failure and as it is old (60s) and unusual it will be very hard or impossible to replace it. Since the main breaker has failed only half of my breakers are working as only one of the hot lines from it is supplying power to the breaker box and so basically every other breaker is working. This means of course that any double pole breakers will not work. I need to wire up my water heater (18.8 Amp) using two 110 breakers. Can anyone explain to me how to do this for a quick fix as my real fix will require a complete new breaker box and so on. <Q> You cannot get 220VAC from one leg in your panel. <S> You must have two isolated 120VAC legs to do this. <S> Why can't you have the main breaker replaced? <S> You should be able to buy a replacement breaker without replacing the whole panel. <S> Also, have you tried manually setting the magnets in the main breaker? <S> This is done by removing it and slamming it hard down on all axis. <S> This will sometimes physically reset the magnets in their proper position within the breaker and restore normal operation. <S> They can sometimes be jarred out of position when tripped. <S> But since you have to remove the breaker to do this trick, you might as well replace it with a fresh new one. <A> Not an answer, @shirlock homes got the answer right. <S> This is for the replacement breaker. <S> Do a google search on UQFB200, a breaker made by Milbank. <S> It has been around forever (early 60's?) and looks like your Heinemann. <S> Forget about Cutler Hammer having it. <S> Hopefully you can read the specs to compare measurement, but if you measure, keep your hands out of it and use nothing conductive!!! <S> REMEMBER YOU ARE RISKING YOUR LIFE ANYTIME YOU MESS <S> WITH AN OPEN PANEL OR <S> OPEN LUGS <S> LIKE ON THE BREAKER. <S> EVEN IF THE POWER IS OFF ALWAYS ACT AS IF THE POWER IS ON. <S> If you cannot measure SAFELY show the picture to the electrician and he can figure it out. <A> Odd as it might sound, you could run the water heater on 120 volts. <S> Based on the amperage you stated, it would be a common 4500 watt heater. <S> At 120 volts instead of 240 volts (which as explain in previous answers you simply do not have), it will be effectively a 1125 watt heater (half the amps times half the volts). <S> It will take up to 4 times as long to recover. <S> Today's heaters are well insulated and should be able to reach a reasonable temperature even at the low wattage. <S> You might add some extra insulation if the outside feels warm. <S> When I was in college, I moved into an apartment where the gas water heater was shut off and only had a lit pilot. <S> I merely noticed it was taking a very long time to recover (nearly all day). <S> But it was enough to shower once a day. <S> I did this for 3 months before finding out that it was never running the main burner. <S> Running the electrical elements on half voltage should be better than a pilot. <S> I'm also concerned about adding extra load to the remaining side of your panel. <S> That could easily cause the crippled main breaker to completely fail. <S> We don't know why it failed on one side. <S> Why would that trouble not also exist on the other? <S> This is something that needs fixed sooner, not later. <S> These larger breakers are often similarly sized and a new one from another manufacturer may fit <S> (have an electrician do that work). <S> The connections in your photo are what is common in separate large breakers. <A> I have used 120 volts to power a 240 volt hot water heater before. <S> The 240 volt 4500 watt element will put out about 1125 watts of heat if hooked up to 120 volts. <S> Depending on your hot water usage you might never run out of hot water. <S> I had 3 people living in my home with a 240 volt hot water heater hooked up to 120 volts, and never ran out of hot water, but it was a 80 gallon HWH. <S> The hot water heater's recovery time, which is the time required to heat up the hot water used, will be about 4 times longer than if it were hooked up to 240 volts. <S> My local hardware store sells a 120 volt 1650 watt element for about $20. <S> Use a 20 amp breaker. <S> Replace both elements, upper and lower. <S> Make sure you save the 240 volt elements to use when you solve your main breaker problem. <A> You could use a step-up transformer to increase the voltage (the opposite of what North Americans do when they go to Europe), however by the time you do this, you may as well just fix the actual problem.
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Residential main panels are inexpensive but there is a bit of labour involved to swap it out, and you usually need a licensed electrician do this work. Using two single pole breakers on one leg will still only give you 120VAC. One could also replace the elements in the hot water heater with 120 volt elements.
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How can I locate floor joists? I want to use some stop squeak screws that pull the subfloor tight to the joists, then break off beneath the surface of the floor. I am having a difficult time locating the joists: my stud finder doesn't seem to work very well and I am losing my marbles drilling holes through carpeting and missing the joist. I am doing this on both carpet and vinyl. <Q> The joists should be at the squeak, you just need to determine the direction of the joists. <S> Typically, this is the shorter distance between exterior walls, unless there are interior load bearing walls used to break up the span. <S> Some stud finders have a deep penetrating settings that might find a joist through carpet. <S> And you can also try finding the joists in the ceiling below and measuring the distance from a common wall. <A> For vinyl floor, get a pair of very high strength magnets. <S> Take one, slide it around on the floor until it appears to catch on something. <S> Then, following where you think the joist may run (as posted above, shortest run between exterior walls), slide the other magnet until it catches something again. <S> If you are successful, you will have a line between the 2 magnets perpendicular to the exterior wall. <S> Mark this line, and try again on 16 inches either side of the line. <A> If this is the first floor of a house, then you can see the subfloor from underneath in the basement. <S> BUT... <S> Those kind of screws were originally designed to re-attach a single board in a place where it had popped loose on a floor made of nailed-down individual boards (especially squeaky stair treads). <S> I doubt very much they are going to do anything at all if you have a plywood subfloor. <S> You would be asking a couple of screws to handle a load that 50 or more nails or screws are currently failing to do. <S> Floors like this creak because they aren't sufficiently structured, and over time the nails loosen and let the joists rub against the subfloor as it bounces. <A> Use a long small (1/8" or smaller) drill bit and go under the house, drill upthrough the floor as close as you can get to the floor beam. <S> Go in the house and locate the drill bit, now you know where the floor beam is and the very small hole is negligible. <S> I also use this method in my sheet rock ceiling to locate the ceiling walls in the attic. <A> I believe joists normally run across the shortest width of the house - this should help you locate the direction correctly. <S> Hope this helps.
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You can guesstimate where the joist is, shoot a screw on either side, go underneath and measure where the joist is between the screws, go back up and use the measurement to hit it.
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How does Thermal Release Device (TRD) work Rheem hot water heaters have a device in the combustion chamber called Thermal Release Device (TRD). It contains a vial filled with liquid that seems to be mounted in a flex metal plate. It is a safety device that is supposed to trip when the temperature inside the combustion chamber goes above safe limit. This could happen due to "Flammable vapor incidence" or for variety of other reasons. There is not much information about this online. This device tripped off for the gas water heater and the first plumber did not even know anything about it. He thought that it was thermocouple gone bad. Another plumber also thought the same but with GE support he could at least figure out and he knew about it. However, he could not explain how this device worked. I also could not find much online especially exactly how it trips off the burner when it just seem to sit on the base of the heater inside the combustion chamber. EDIT American Water Heater technical bulletin - they call is Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant (FVIR) EDIT Got some pictures of the device and instructions <Q> Either expansion/pop or fusible link melt are the two methods used. <S> Fire sprinkler heads also use these devices. <S> The melting method is usually two pieces of metal joined by a calibrated alloy similar to solder that has a specific temperature where the pieces of metal debond allowing the safety mechanism to trip. <S> Expansion usually is a capsule filled with a liquid that's calibrated to burst at a set temperature allowing the safety mechanism to trip. <S> In fire sprinklers, the safety mechanism is allowing the seal to blow and water to flow. <S> In furnaces, fuel flow cut, in this water heater, a damper to cut off air supply. <S> Here's a link to a safety bulletin (Rheem/Ruud) <S> Visually, it's pretty self-explanatory in the sequence below. <S> Bulb pops, spring jumps out of the way and pin on <S> spring loaded damper no longer is obstructed from allowing damper plate to seal combustion chamber. <A> I couldn't find any specific information on how this particular device works, but in general the device is made up of two parts. <S> The first is the anchor, which is in a fixed stationary position. <S> The second part is movable, and bonded to the first part using a melt-able substance. <S> When the bonding substance reaches it's melting point, the movable portion of the device is released from the anchor. <S> Once the air supply is cut off the flame is extinguished, and the heater is rendered inoperable. <S> From what I could find, the device is activated in the water heater somewhere above 375 degrees. <A> The TRD is a safety device which shuts off the main burner under certain circumstances. <S> Four things can cause a TRD to trip: <S> Gas pressure goes out of spec tolerance (5-10" wc) <S> (test with manometer ) Improper makeup air at intake manifold <S> Presence of flammable vapors <S> Improper venting <S> By far, the most common cause is 1. <S> gas pressure out of tolerance. <S> This can happen, for example, if the main gas line to the house is shut off while the water heater is still on. <S> This causes a pressure drop at the intake which trips the TRD. <S> When the TRD trips, the glass bulb breaks which allows a spring loaded metal <S> damper rod (housed in the water heater frame underneath the burner assembly) to spring up, thereby cutting off the air supply to the chamber which, in turn, extinguishes the burner flame. <S> Here is a Youtube video showing how to replace the TRD. <S> And here are a couple other useful links: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-Rheem-TRD.html <S> http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Verify-activated-TRD-Rheem-gas-water-heater-1428.pdf
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In the case of a water heater, it seems the movable portion is used to block the combustion air from entering the combustion chamber.
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Should tiles of "stones" be removed from the backing? We had a stone floor installed in our shower. The stones came on 1' x 1' "sheets". The installer kept the stones on the backing, and now you can clearly see lines in both directions where each 1' section meets. I've seen other showers where the stones are randomly placed so they don't look like tiles. Is it reasonable for me to have the installer re-do it, or is it normal for those tiles to be installed that way? Here is a photo (ignore the wet part): <Q> Mosaic stone tile is supposed to be installed still attached to its mesh backing. <S> Otherwise it would be more efficient to go to a landscaping company and buy a truckload of river rock. <S> From what I can tell, there could be two causes for the 'line' effect you ended up with: <S> The mesh squares were poorly designed/manufactured with all the stones lining up to form a perfect edge along the sides. <S> There's not much the installer could have done to counteract this. <S> The installer didn't take time to make sure the edges appeared natural when lining up the mesh squares. <S> It may also be very difficult to tell this effect will occur prior to applying the grout. <S> My guess is that it's most likely a combination of these two factors. <A> I think this is a case where the sheets haven't been installed as well as they could be - if you look at the bottom of your photo the joins here are a lot less noticeable. <S> I'd say that the tiler has simply left too much gap between each sheet. <S> You can make them easier to butt up to each other by trimming the mesh closer to the stones. <S> The other thing to try is to dry lay them and rotate the sheets so you get a more "natural" look before using the cement. <S> I'd have a word with your tiler to see if they'd redo the work. <A> This will go a long way toward fixing your problem and should be a lot more palatable to the installer than a complete do-over. <S> For what it's worth <S> I don't think it's unreasonable to expect the installer to have noticed these gridlines developing as he was laying the stones and to have addressed it then using the same method.
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Talk to your installer about selectively removing a few stones here and there along the gridlines, and replacing them with different sizes & shapes to break up the lines. You normally want to leave the stones on the backing as they are much easier to handle and lay like this.
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How can I extract rusted/painted outdoor screws? We have an outdoor lamppost that is controlled by a switch from inside. Originally the light was burnt out, so we replaced it, and it started working again, but it blew out the light again. So I'm trying to look at the socket to tighten up and/or replace it, but it's impossible to get at unless I undo a couple of screws at the interface between the post and the 'fixture'. They're all rusted and painted over, and I'm having limited success. Things I've tried with varying amounts of goodness: Naval Jelly rust dissolver A screw extractor bit metal drill bits to drill out the screw None of them has really done the trick, but I'll keep trying. The fixture is probably stuck on the post as well - but it does appear to actually have a collar, so once I get these screws out I may have better luck with a mallet to dislodge it. Any other suggestions? <Q> Apply heat. <S> A heat gun simultaneously softens paint and temporarily causes the metal in the screw to expand slightly. <S> Once the paint starts to bubble and drip, your screwdriver should have no problem getting properly slotted. <S> Start with a minute or two of heating on the low setting and test with a screwdriver. <S> If that doesn't work, try again with higher heat. <S> Unless the head was already stripped, you should have no problem getting your screwdriver engaged. <S> As the screw cools, it should also loosen up and be easier to remove. <S> Heat guns are inexpensive and useful for a variety of projects. <S> Before I bought a heat gun, I used the following steps: Remove the paint/rust from the screw head. <S> For paint, I've found a gel paint stripper to be effective. <S> As you point out, naval jelly or a penetrating oil can be used on rust. <S> You can also try using a rotary tool fitted with an abrasive brush to quickly clean the screw head. <S> Use a manual screwdriver to get the screw started. <S> Too often, I've gone straight to the power screwdriver and stripped the slots in the screw head. <S> This is particularly common with Phillips head screws. <S> Using a hand screwdriver reduces the risk. <S> Re-slot the screw head. <S> Using a cutting disk attachment on a rotary tool, it's possible to either add a slot or deepen an existing slot on the screw head. <S> Aim to create a single groove deep enough for a flat head screwdriver to engage. <S> Drill or chisel out the surrounding area. <S> (Presumably you could use a rotary tool for this step as well, but since I obtained one I haven't need to go past step #3.) <S> If you dig out enough material, you might be able to grasp the screw head with a pair of pliers. <S> It probably goes without saying ( <S> but I will anyway) that you should wear proper safety equipment such as gloves and goggles when handling harsh chemicals and using high-speed rotary tools. <A> In the end I ended up using drill bits to drill out the area around the screw heads <S> and then I was able to get enough leverage to yank the top off. <S> We were going to replace the lamp head anyways, so this ended up working out fine. <A> It's kind of expensive just for this purpose, but I find an impact driver works wonders on rusted screws, screws with messed up heads, stubborn screws and bolts, etc. <S> I've been shocked at how much I use my cordless impact driver -- I use it so much that my cordless drill is now only used for drilling. <A> Two thing to try for a badly rusted screw. <S> The first is heat - get a torch and heat it up. <S> That should also burn away any paint as well. <S> Of course, it will also affect the area around the screw. <S> And when a screw is completely mangled, you can always re-slot it with a dremel - take a look at this . <A> Sometimes you cut of the head, sometimes you cut a new screwdriver slot. <S> Diamond tools at harbor freight are cheap and may work. <S> An angle grinder can be used on big guys. <S> I have normally only had to use this on really rusted material or hardened hardware. <S> Grinding might give you a good piolot for drilling out the sucker.
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If all else fails, you ought to be able to extract a screw by drilling out or attacking the area around the screw with a chisel. A dremmel tool with grinding or cutting attachments may be a good way to go after this guy.
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What tool should I buy to cut through very hard plastic? I have this 55 gallon blue drum that I just picked up from car spa, but the top is not removable. What tool should I buy to remove just the top part of the plastic drum so that I can replace it with a wire mesh? Update: I just looked into the Dremel tool, maybe this could work? <Q> When we cut vinyl siding, my tool of choice is a circular saw with the blade installed backwards. <S> By putting the blade in backwards, it will wear down the plastic with a smooth line rather than shred it with a rough edge. <S> The thicker and harder the plastic, the slower you have to go. <S> If the circular saw doesn't work (perhaps because you can't make your cut as a straight line around the rim of the barrel) then a Sawzall is the quick way <S> (I'd be tempted to use a blade with a high tooth count to reduce shredding). <S> And if all you need is a small round hole, then your standard hole saw on a drill will work. <A> Dremel tool would work, but is very undersized for the job. <S> It wll get HOT if you try it. <S> A Rotozip or similar small router could do the job. <S> If you're not too concerned about the look of the edge, a jigsaw with a course blade would work given a pilot hole to start with. <S> Plastic does tend to vibrate and seize on jigsaws, so expect a rough ride. <A> If you just have one cut to make, you can probably use a hacksaw blade - something like <S> this would probably work fine.
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Best choice is likely a small router with a rotozip style cutting-bit.
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How to remove the "new carpet smell" (VOCs) from new carpet? My wife is pregnant. We just had new carpet installed in the soon to be baby's room. We didn't realize until after it was installed that the "new carpet smell" is actually a bad thing. From what I've read online, new carpet gives off harmful fumes, which contain VOCs, for months. What can I do to expedite the process of removing these harmful VOCs and air out the carpet? <Q> I don't know how true it is <S> but I've heard a few times that certain plants do a good job of removing VOCs from household air. <S> You could try investigating this claim. <S> Here's one page that mentions it. <S> http://www.thedailygreen.com/going-green/tips/best-plants-for-indoor-air-quality <S> My wife has trouble with a variety of VOCs. <S> It might not be an option for you to store the carpet partially outstretched in your garage until most of the odour departs. <A> A small window fan can be used to ventilate the room with fresh air. <S> You should be able to find one that can be set to blow the air out the window rather than into the rest of the house. <A> While it's been several years since the original post, there are now some air purifying paints on the market that might be useful for people to know about to help combat offgassing from rugs, furniture, etc. <S> It claims to absorb 98% to 99% of VOCs down to 1 ppm. <S> MSDS available on the ECOS Paints website. <S> There are also plug in HEPA air purifiers, of course, but we loved the idea that our paint (of all things) could help improve air quality. <A> It will take some time for the VOC's to off-gas. <S> Ventilation is one of the best things you can do. <S> It will likely take weeks to months for the VOC level to go down and if you can't properly ventilate the carbon will help a lot. <A> I got a mens roll on deodorant (old spices) , remember not the aerosol one. <S> I remove the gelly substance and immersed in a plastic container filled with hot water and poured the liquid in the electric Steam Iron and turn on steam and Ironed every corner like I press my cloths slowly so that heat is penetrated and kept windows and ventilations on so that I do not breath the VOC's. <S> Then vacuumed and thrower some agarbatti around room <S> so I am occupied with smell I appreciate(Incense sticks). <S> The weather is cold outside but its better than suffocating smell. <S> Let me know if you find any other ways. <S> I feel best is to ventilate and make the poisonous VOC's diluted and cause much less harm.
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Another option is to put an air purifier with a lot of activated carbon to absorb the VOC gases. I have used ECOS Paints Interior Atmosphere Purifying Paint for my walls and ceilings (not for humid location application). So, open the windows to allow the outside air to mix in even if cold outside.
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Toilet not always flushing fully, what could be wrong? I have a toilet that about half of the time doesn't flush fully, but will always flush fine on the second attempt. It does this regardless of the "contents" in the bowl. I first took a plunger to it, but it didn't help at all. I then came here and read How can I fix a toilet that flushes incompletely? and looked inside the tank while flushing and the flapper seems to be functioning normally. I then read Why do my toilets flush slowly and often incompletely? and cleaned up everything like Inkspeak mentioned in his answer, but still hit or miss. I am starting to wonder if my toilet is as bad as Inkspeak says one of his three toilets were. I bought this house just a few months ago and it has been happening the whole time. The house was built in 2007 and this is the only toilet that is having the issue. Is there anything else that I could try before I just replace the whole toilet? It seems like the toilet is young enough that it shouldn't have too much build up in it, but I also know that we have rather hard water based off of how fast we see mineral build up in our shower that we didn't see in our previous house. <Q> I will describe the test you need to do to check the toilet. <S> Remove the tank cover, be sure the tank is full of water to the full mark. <S> Push the flush handle. <S> When the rubber flapper flips up, reach down and hold it in the up position until all the water has drained from the tank. <S> If the toilet flushes completely under this test, but not on it's own, then your flapper is closing too soon, or the tank is not filling as much as it needs to do. <S> The flapper is a real easy replacement, if the tank is not filling, then the fill valve needs to be replaced. <S> If it did not flush completely, time to spring and spend 200 bucks for a new Class 5 toilet. <S> Which toilet to buy is a whole new topic. <S> Good luck. <A> If the problem is mineral clogging of the under-rim channels on the toilet, and this does produce the symptoms you describe, then neither CLR no vinegar may be enough to clear up the blockage. <S> The traditional treatment is a cup or two of muriatic acid (HCl 36%, from the hardware store) down the overflow hole in the tank. <S> That goes directly to the rim vents. <S> Pour the stuff in, wait an hour, and flush. <S> Gloves and eye protection are recommmended, and a funnel so as to avoid spillage and corroding the metal parts in your tank. <S> This looks like decent writeup of the method: How to Fix a Slow Toilet <A> I had exactly the same problem and was able to figure out why it was working on the second time and thus fixed the issue. <S> In order for the toilet to flush there has to be a sufficient amount of water in the bowl before flushing. <S> In my case, when I was flushing the first time, water would stay in the bowl and therefore, when the second flush came in, it would all go down properly. <S> But at that point while the tank filled up, no water would go into the bowl and the level of water in it, needed for the next flash, would be too low. <S> When I looked inside the tank, I noticed that the incoming water was sipping through the intake valve and did not create enough pressure in the overflow valve to spill back into the bowl. <S> It turned out the gasket in the intake valve was too old and fell apart.
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Replacing gasket would solve the problem, but I had to replace the intake valve as my hardware store didn't have the gasket I needed.
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How to permanently remedy a patch of mold on a ceiling from a water leak above? I recently discovered that water was dripping from the ceiling light fixture in a first floor bathroom. It turned it was due to a toilet leak (faulty wax ring) in a bathroom directly above. The toilet leak has been fixed, and in fact there was no evidence of water in the upstairs bathroom at all - it must have leaked directly through the floor around the toilet flange/pipe. I removed the light fixture in the downstairs bathroom that the water was dripping through and discovered a patch of mold. It's only the size of the fixture (about a foot in diameter) and aside from the visible mold there doesn't appear to be significant or visible water damage. The sheetrock is relatively hard and dry, all things considered. This bathroom is otherwise dry and in good shape - I had no idea this mold was lurking behind the fixture. Here's an image: Cleaning off the mold on the surface of the ceiling should be pretty simple. But is there anything else I must do to protect myself and my home as a result of this leak? What about the space between the ceiling and the second floor? What I'm afraid of is what I can't see on the other side of that sheetrock but I don't know if that's something to be concerned with or not. Is it sufficient to clean away the mold, ensure the ceiling is dry and call it done? <Q> There will be the potential for the mould to reappear as (as you have correctly surmised) there might be still some water in the ceiling space. <S> If you can, lift the floorboards in the upstairs room. <S> This will allow you to see the extent of any damage and also get the air into help dry the patch out. <S> If the area affected is not too wet then leaving the boards up for a while will help. <S> If it is really wet <S> then you might have to cut away the damaged board and repair the ceiling. <A> I've had to repair a similar issue in the past... <S> I think it's worth opening up some sort of hole (above or below, whatever works best for you) and setting up a fan to completely dry out the inside before you close it up. <S> Also, because the drywall has gotten wet, you might run into some issues with any paint you put on it peeling up (I had that issue with plaster, so it might be a different scenario for you). <A> Definitely this type of wall needs to be repaired as early as possible. <S> You can also use a mold killing product if you like such as bleach, vinegar, borax and more to remove the mold. <S> However if the wall is porous, like an unpainted drywall, then you need to do one thing and that is cut away the wall where the mold is growing. <S> This is because mold grows inside the material, instead of just on the surface, and if it is not cut away then it will not be removed completely. <S> The main cause of mold is water leakage <S> and so leaks should be repaired. <A> If the plaster has completely dried out, you could just try painting a damp retardant paint such as Ronseal One Coat Anti Damp Paint . <S> This should prevent the stain coming back through the paint, which is waht <S> would likely happen if you just used emulsion.
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If the damaged wall is non-porous then you can simply wipe the mold away by using a wet cloth. There are other questions here on how to patch a hole in the ceiling.
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How can I plug the gap between a dishwasher and kitchen skirting board? So we have a mouse problem, and our landlords are pretty worthless when it comes to solving it. They're coming from underneath our kitchen units, which are all raised about six inches, with wooden skirting board in front of them. I've closed two small (2x2 inches, ish) gaps with thick cardboard and white threaded tape, but I'm unable to do the same with the dishwasher since the door needs to be able to open. Currently, we're shoving a towel in there whenever the dishwasher is closed, and removing it whenever we need to open it. It's inconvenient. Is there a better solution? Something that would fill the hole, but stretch, expand, or unfold when the dishwasher is opened? <Q> It's not the interior holes you need to deal with... <S> it's the external ones. <S> They're getting in the house somewhere/somehow <S> and that's what you need to block. <S> The rodents will not want to chew through that. <S> Plugging the interior holes/gaps won't do much. <S> They'll just eventually chew a new hole elsewhere. <A> They'll probably find another hole, even if you do cover that one up. <S> Get a cat, or other pest exterminator; or reduce the food available for them. <S> Or move. <A> As a quick fix you could try one of those expanding foam things. <S> Just get it in a spray can at the hardware store and spray into the gap. <S> It will then expand to fill the hole.
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The simplest way to do that is find the holes, and stuff them with stainless steel wool. This method will only work for small-sh gaps though. Once it is dry you can clean it up a bit to be more presentable with a hacksaw blade.
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How can I change light bulbs in a fixture located 20ft above the ground? We made the unfortunate decision of having a ceiling fan with lights in our two story family room, so the ceiling fan is about 20 feet above our heads. At the moment, all four light bulbs in the unit have burnt out and need replacing. Safety wise, I think it's too high for even a long ladder. What are some options for reaching and changing those light bulbs? <Q> I'm not sure how much room you have to work in, but an option would be to rent a 16 foot step ladder at your local tool rental center. <S> If the bulbs are pointed down, maybe some type of bulb grabber on an extension pole. <S> Got a pic of the fixture? <A> If you are uncomfortable with working at heights you can hire someone to change the lights (and clean the fan). <S> Think about installing LED light bulbs. <S> You may never need to change them again. <A> A small scaffolding tower might be your best option. <S> This will give you the height and safety you need. <S> Something like this one . <S> While it might be a bit expensive for just changing light bulbs you'll need it when you come to paint the ceiling in this room. <A> If you are spending money on renting, it could be cheaper to hire an electrician. <S> Think of going to pick up the ladder, moving furniture, setting up the ladder, changing lamps, moving ladder / furniture to get eyeball recessed light, blah blah blah. <S> I know this is a DIY site <S> but sometimes you can hire a professional and get it done for not much more than getting everything and doing it yourself. <S> If that eyeball is hard to get, or what looks like another fixture on the left, then these really could make it worth it. <S> Whatever you do, use a LED lamp and a manufacture that you are familiar with. <S> Newer technology LED's cost more than older technology and the biggest difference between the two is the lumen output. <S> Normally DIY's will have brand names and they will be older technology lamps. <S> Use a color of 2700 to 3000 kelvins that will be about the same as incandescent colors (warmer). <S> Good Luck! <A> Like shirlock holmes said, the extension pole kits work great. <S> I had a house once with several very high ceilings, and I already had a nice paint extension handle. <S> Bought something like below and the suction cup worked great for changing all kinds of bulbs. <A>
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Use a pool noodle attached to a paint roller extension pole as long as it is the small bulbs it will fit right in the center of the noodle and unscrew and screw back in You can also buy your own lamps and have the electricians just do the labor only, but if the electrician supplies the lamps then they might warranty them and if a product failure happens, then you don't have to mess with it again.
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What is the proper way to drain a boiler's expansion tank? The expansion tank is supposed to have some air in it, but I'm guessing that mine doesn't. Let's suppose (i.e. I'm making this up in the hope that someone will correct me) that the tank should be half full of air and half full of water. If I just open the tank's faucet, some water will drain out (let's say one bucket), but I think I need to ensure that I get a bucket full of air to go back in the tank. I don't want to just decrease the pressure of the air bubble that's in there. Or, do I keep the faucet open and drain several buckets? Will the water stop coming eventually, or will I just be draining water from the closed water circulation system? <Q> Turn off the valve that auto-fills the system from your cold water line <S> If you have one, open a valve or bleeder on the top of your expansion tank. <S> If you can't do this, it will still work, the water will just gurgle and drain slowly Open a drain valve and drain a suitable amount of water Close drain valve and re-open valve you closed in step 1 <S> Amount of water to leave in tank <S> : If the system is cold, I would leave the tank close to empty, that maximizes expansion space. <S> If it's warm or hot, I'd go for about halfway. <S> You can tell where the water is by feeling the temperature of various spots on the tank and the pipe that feeds the tank. <A> You are correct. <S> The expansion tank is usually about half full of water and half full of air--by volume. <S> One tank full of air at atmospheric pressure will be about half its volume when pressurized. <S> When in doubt, drain it. <S> Then open the drain valve on the tank. <S> The compressed air will push some water out. <S> If hardly any water comes out, the tank is waterlogged. <S> When the water stops, you're not done. <S> The point is to fill the tank with air. <S> Removing a bucket or two of water does no good. <S> Sometimes, you'll need to hang your bucket on the drain valve and wait for the water to gurgle out little by little. <S> Usually, there's a pipe union between the shutoff valve and the tank. <S> In that case, connect a hose to the drain valve and let as much water out as you can. <S> Then take a pair of wrenches and crack open the union. <S> Air enters the tank through the union and water is siphoned out by the hose. <S> When the tank is full of air, tighten the union, shut the drain valve, open the tank isolation valve and pressurize the system. <A> Plumbing is often a messy task. <S> It often involves needing to drain a water line. <S> (Can I tell you about the time I needed to drain a sewage line? <S> NOT fun.) <S> The point is, you may well need to drain the system, so that water does not come out when you open that valve, or at least it is not under pressure. <S> Run a hose to a proper drain, as these drain valves usually have a garden hose connector on them. <S> If the air bladder on the tank is ruptured, then there is essentially no air left in the tank. <S> I would probably take an air line to the needle valve on the tank to try to purge out some of the water that may remain in the tank. <S> That water will drain out more slowly otherwise, but it should drain out even without help, but more slowly. <S> Using a screwdriver handle, tap the tank. <S> Does it sound hollow? <S> If not, then you need to get some of the water out, or it will be quite heavy to handle. <S> Now, remove the tank. <S> Install the new tank, using either pipe dope or teflon tape thread sealant on the threads. <S> If there is PVC pipe involved and you are using pipe dope, be careful to use a PVC approved dope. <S> Some pipe dopes could cause problems with the PVC overtime. <S> Re-pressureize the system, bleeding out any air in your lines. <S> This may take some effort. <S> Clean up your floor, as I always leave behind at least a small puddle of water.
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First, shut the valve between the tank and the boiler, or the rest of the system.
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How do I diagnose weak water flow from tub faucet and shower? I have a shower that has very low flow from the hot and cold water and also from the shower when you turn the valve to switch it to the shower. All of the other fixtures in the house have strong flow including the sink in the same bathroom. Unfortunately there isn't an easy way to get access behind the shower (tile on both sides of the wall). Does this sound like something that could be caused by bad cartridges? What about some kind of corrosion built up in the pipes? How can I go about diagnosing this without ripping open the walls? <Q> Sometimes there is a screen in the shower head that can collect mineral deposits over time. <S> They look kind of like white beads. <S> Try removing the shower head and see if any more water comes out. <A> Remove the shower head, then try the shower. <S> If you get full flow, replace the shower head. <S> We have replaced pipes recently and the amount of crud that can build up is unbelievable (sorry I did not take photos). <A> If you have a shutoff valve feeding that bath or that shower, I would check: <S> Is it on all the way? <S> If it is, you can sometimes disassemble it in place (of course turn the house water off first). <S> The typical valves for this application are gate valves, which can get a lot of gunk in them. <S> Disassembly will also let you see if the problem is before or after the valve (with valve disassembled, turn on house water for a second; Did you get good flow or not?). <S> If you disassemble a gate valve don't be surprised if you need a new stem seal (the seal that keeps it from leaking around the shaft).
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If you get low flow, probably there is a buildup of corrosion inside the pipes.
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How do I fix a stuck toilet tap that hasn't been turned in 3+ years? I am trying to close the tap which connects to my toilet tank but the tap will not budge. I don't think that this tap has been touched in more than 3 years. Is there a way to fix it so that I can turn the tap on or off? <Q> Unfortunately there is not going to be any "trick" that is going to make this easy. <S> Corrosion or mineral deposits may have bonded some of the moving parts. <S> There are basically two ways to attack this problem. <S> Either use brute force or attempt to disassemble the valve. <S> Before doing either, be sure to locate and check the operation of the main water shut off that feeds this toilet. <S> You want to be sure you can turn off the water if the jammed valve in question leaks, needs to be disassembled, or removed/replaced. <S> Personally, I won't mess around with an old valve for long because a new 1/4 turn ball valve replacement is cheap ($4 - $7), and easy to sweat in place with a new feeder/riser tube or flexible Stainless steel hose to the toilet. <S> Let's try operating your frozen valve. <S> The brute force method is simply using a pair of pump pliers or a medium length monkey wrench on the handle. <S> Get a grip on the thing and try to open it using the leverage and length of the pliers etc. <S> Applying enough force with a long enough handle will either move the valve or break the valve handle. <S> Assuming you are able to get the thing to move, the next step is to check it for leaks and see if it will close tightly again. <S> Often, they will not close completely as the seats may be damaged or debris is stuck inside. <S> This is were disassembling the valve comes into play. <S> By removing the nut from the valve body on the operating shaft, you can pull the whole cartridge out. <S> Once this cartridge is out, you can inspect it, clean out debris, replace bushings or packings etc and reassemble. <S> If this is an old multi turn valve, it is rarely worth the time and energy to fix it. <S> However, it can be done. <S> This is where I refer you to plan 1, replace it with a new 1/4 turn ball valve. <A> <A> Before brute forcing it, give the valve some serious taps with a hammer. <S> That can sometimes cause the mineral deposits to fracture enough to allow a valve to open. <S> If that works, exercise the valve a dozen or so times to clear out the gunk.
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Buy a new 1/4 turn ball valve and replace it, because that's what you're going to have to end up doing anyway, and just going right to the end and doing it now will save you some swearing, bruised knuckles, water all over the floor, and a second trip to the hardware store.
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Is cleaning out the main sewer line a regular scheduled maintenance item? I just had to have my main sewer line snaked, and the technician said it should be done once every 2 years. Is this really the case, or was he just trying to insure he has job security? <Q> However if it "has issues" then you may wish to have it snaked before it gets blocks and becomes an expensive after hours service call. <S> The problem is you wont know until it gets blocked next time if you should have done the maintenance…. <A> I don't think it's common for this to be a regular occurance unless something is wrong with the sewer like a collapse, a belly, roots intruding or incorrectly sized. <S> If there is something wrong with it, then this is not regular scheduled maintenance but a workaround for a larger problem. <S> If you have any doubts the only real way to know is to have a camera put down the sewer. <S> If it is in good shape then you might never need to snake it again. <S> If there is a problem with it then you need to decide whether you want to spend the money to correct it, or keep paying a plumber to snake it out; if you are lucky you won't have a backup before this happens. <S> Either way, you can of course help keep your sewer in good shape by avoiding putting fat down as well as other objects that frequently cause problems like feminine hygene products. <A> In my old house, I had issues with tree roots. <S> I did not do it every two years, but it ended up getting clogged up around every three years, so it had to be done anyway. <S> If I would have done it every two, I could have avoided the clogged issue. <A> I asked around about this before and the answer I got was that it should be done every 50 years... <S> That said, my parents had to have it done yearly at their old house as one of the trees found it and really like putting roots into it... <A> We are currently have major issues with our sewer line and have come to find out a few items of interest: <S> *Most home owner's insurance policies do not cover plumbing; if a pipe breaks, then it is the homeowner's responsibility to have it repaired since it wasn't maintained properly. <S> (freezing pipes are a different story) <S> *Most home owner's insurance policies do not cover anything sewer related. <S> *Most cities are only responsible for the main sewer line. <S> The homeowner is responsible for the line between the home and the main sewer line. <S> * most = probably all. <S> Our conclusion is that indeed cleaning out the sewer line should be a regularly scheduled maintenance item. <S> Especially in older homes where the pipes tend to have quite a few roots damaging the lines. <S> Better to spend a couple of hundred dollars every couple of years than end up with a several thousand dollar expense and sewage backing up into your home. <S> This may sound like job security, but in the long run it is the correct thing to do. <S> Probably similar to being told we need to change our oil every 3,000 miles... may not be entirely necessary, but in the long run will spare us more problems.
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It depends, if the sewer is well designed, well built and does not have any issues, and you don't put a lot of fat down it will be ok for a very long time with no maintenance.
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Is it OK for bushes to touch the house and fence? I have a house in the Seattle area. A realtor told me to trim all the bushes so that they don't touch the house and wood fences before putting it for sale. Is that really necessary? What's the harm? <Q> It shows a lack of care for the home. <S> Bushes against the home or a wood fence are an entrance point for pests (termites, ants, etc). <S> It also adds more wear and tear from abrasion that you wouldn't have from just the sun and rain. <S> And for a buyer, a bush growing against the home could be hiding a problem. <S> So if you want to make it look as if you've been caring for the home, I'd trim it back before the buyers see it. <S> And for your next home, I'd recommend trimming them back as well, so you are actually taking care of your home and not just making it appear that way before the sale. <A> Another thing the brush and bushes do is create a more humid and shaded environment. <S> This will promote mold growth which can cause its own issues (rotting, allergies, etc). <S> If there is mold growth (black splotchiness) or algae, there are several cleaning products that you can pick up from a local hardware store. <S> They come in bottles shaped similarly to regular indoor spray cleaners but have a hose attachment instead. <S> Some products work better than others, and some are "greener" (plant-safe, environmentally friendly). <S> We just used some on a rental property a few months ago and the siding (on the north end of the house) looks new. <S> I wish I could remember the brand that worked best, but I honestly can't remember. <S> Maybe an employee could help provide recommendations. <A> It can also serve as a bridge for ants to evacuate the ground during the first rains, so they start crawling the siding to find voids where they can overwinter. <S> The absolute worst is Ivy. <S> I personally value any house that's had any quantity of Ivy growing on it at demolition costs. <S> The suckers it uses to cling to the siding break through paint. <S> The moisture buildup leads to areas that never dry out, allowing black mold to grow in the breaches in the paint. <S> It will push its way through the T&G edges of T-111 siding, despite it being well nailed down and proceed to attempt growing inside the wall. <S> The worst instance of this had an ant nest filling the wall. <S> Another thing to consider in the PNW is wildland interface properties. <S> Laws are going into effect that penalize property owners for maintaining hazardous situations where fire can spread off the property and into adjoining land. <S> One of the major no-nos is having stuff growing against housing and under decks. <S> Plus it just plain looks messy.
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In the Great Pacific Northwest, land of moisture and people that rust instead of tan, anything growing against the side of a house contributes to damp and mold growth.
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What is this soft, sticky wood finish and how do I remove it? We have a second-hand table with a mysterious finish. The wood underneath is pale, possibly pine. With the finish, it's a slightly darker and "warmer" colour. The table is not antique; I'd guess only about 20 years old. The finish is soft, so you can easily score lines in it with a fingernail. It feels slightly sticky if you just press it with a finger. It becomes VERY sticky if it gets wet, and will permanently stick to any paper left on it, so the paper can only be removed by painstakingly scrubbing it into shreds. It also turns white after getting wet, for an hour or so, then fades back to brown. Because of the stickiness it attracts dirt horribly, and is covered in dark grime which is very hard to remove. The grime can be removed by lengthy scrubbing with a rough sponge and Flash kitchen spray, but then the finish partly comes off too. We tried Nitromors paint and varnish remover, followed by white spirit. It made some progress at removing the finish, but left it patchy and smeary and not completely removed; I think we've had better results with Flash kitchen spray. Can you help me identify the finish, and recommend a way to remove it properly? <Q> By "White spirit", do you mean turpentine or mineral spirits? <S> If that had no effect on it... <S> My best guess would be that it's improperly cured polyurethane, or water-based polyurethane that wasn't mixed properly. <S> Additionally, polyurethane doesn't take to pine well and is pretty resistant to being removed chemically, so there's another pointer in that direction. <S> You can try denatured alcohol. <S> If it comes up with denatured alcohol, it's probably improperly mixed shellac. <S> What I'd probably do if I were you would be to sand it down completely back to bare wood, first with 80 grit and then 120 and 220 grits. <S> I know it's a pain in the butt, but it'll provide the best finish overall. <S> Then stain it and finish it again with something that isn't polyurethane... <S> if you stain it, I'd recommend a lacquer finish like Deft, and then a really nice set of absorbent coasters so that you don't keep getting the surface wet. <S> ;) <S> Or if you do use polyurethane, use a satin spray in a rattlecan and bring it indoors to a moisture and temperature controlled environment to cure for 48 hours before you put it back into use. <S> And your last option would be to paint it (after sanding back to bare wood, or it won't adhere!) <S> with an oil-based enamel and a bit of penetrol. <A> <A> For the record, I've had some success with sodium carbonate solution, which we happened to have in the cleaning cupboard. <S> It hasn't worked everywhere, but where it has worked <S> it was very low effort: apply the solution with a cloth, leave, wipe off. <S> Ended up with bare patches of wood, and an opaque yellowish solution. <A> I do a good bit of furniture refinishing in my shop - altho <S> I am a sign painter by trade ... <S> I've seen all sorts of things come thru,my shop! <S> Here is one of the best ways to remove the gummy <S> gunk <S> - before you waste a bunch of sandpaper ... put all that sanding energy into steel wool and Comet or Ajax. <S> Use <S> the medium coarse steel wool - finer will work too - but the coarser cuts the muck better. <S> Keep a bowl of water handy, and a few clean damp rags. <S> Work one section at a time. <S> You are not going to get the table soaking wet. <S> make a paste with the water & comet about the consistency of pudding. <S> Scrub scrub scrub with a piece of the steel wool. <S> It will be visibly loaded with the gunk you're removing! <S> Rinse it iout in the bowl - and go again - repeating these steps as often as needed. <S> When the steel wool starts looking ragged or your tired of rinsing it - get a fresh piece. <S> The clean ramp rags are for keeping any standing moisture wiped up as well as duty water. <S> When your table is clean - let it sit a couple of hours and get completely dry. <S> Now you can sand it down nice & smooth without working your sander to death and swirling a bunch gunk around with clogged up sandpaper. <S> I have cleaned and refinished cabinet doors and table tops this way many times. <S> Good luck! <A> Most surfaces will be either lacquer or polyurethane varnish of some sort. <S> Furniture companies have always been known to cut corners and shave cost. <S> If lacquer becomes sticky over the course of a few decades it can be reamalgamated with fresh lacquer, which will postpone the need for complete restoration for a period of two or three years. <S> However, if polyurethane varnish becomes sticky then there is no other acceptable recourse other than to remove the finish and start again. <A> After attempting every known thing at the time, I was faced with removing a thick layer of sticky varnish like finish from my doors,(thick & dark), wanting to restore them to natural pine. <S> Good old 'Sugar Soap' was the only thing to remove it, then a wash down. <S> Brilliant finish to take new sealant too! <S> When restoring antique furniture, I often used a Brillo Pad, soaked in meths to remove the old finish, before attempting new finishes or polish. <A> I'm dealing with the same issue on my kitchen table. <S> I've poured it on, let it sit then scrape. <S> I really don't think I'm going to need to do too much sanding before coating it again with some type of sealant. <A> Nobody mentions cleaning with TSP <S> (Trisodium phosphate)I have a project like this coming up next week, and without seeing it I will be bringing alcohol, Lacquer thinner, and tsp along with some soft brushes and soft towels. <S> and spraying with a spray can of clear coat.
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I'ld be scraping it off with a paint scraper: One of these ones: Then sanding it down once the bulk was gone, (save gumming up a ton of sand paper) The best thing I've found to be the option for good results is 91% alcohol (Walmart brand) and a scraper.
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How to remove closet shelf clips and brackets without damaging the wall? The previous owner of my new house installed ClosetMaid shelves in the closet. I removed the shelves, but had a really hard time with those clips and brackets (pictures attached). Seem like they were hammered into drywall anchors. How can I remove them without damaging the wall? UPDATE : I found the shelf clips on Lowe's website . <Q> The wall is already damaged - nails do that to walls - so you're looking at fixing the wall no matter what. <S> With that in mind, you want a hammer, a small pry bar, a small quantity of joint compound or "wall repair spackle" (the latter is in the paint department), a sponge, a 1" putty knife, 1 pint or quart of primer and an equal quantity of interior paint matched to your existing paint as closely as possible, and a 1" trim paint brush. <S> Use the prybar and hammer to remove the clips and their nails. <S> Spread the joint compound smoothly over the damaged area with the putty knife, and allow to dry. <S> With the sponge <S> DAMP NOT WET, smooth the compound even more. <S> Allow to dry again. <S> Apply primer with the brush to the dried joint compound. <S> Clean brush, allow it and the primer to dry. <S> Use same brush to paint the now dry white primer. <A> Try your best not to pull out the whole bracket/clip without trying to pry the nail portion out first. <S> The anchor used in these clips are the kind that split in half inside the wall so if you pry the whole fitting out, you will end up with an unnecessarily large hole to patch. <S> Unfortunately, as you can tell from the pictures, it's not easy to simply pry the metal nail out. <S> Another approach is what I've done with success. <S> If you can't pull the nail out first, then you can pull the whole fitting out of the wall just a fraction of an inch. <S> Then, take a small saw (preferably with a fine tooth blade) and then cut the wall anchor portion of the fitting. <S> That will allow you to first remove the nail and the fitting, then, the anchor portion can either be removed or pushed into the wall cavity and out of the way. <A> They look like nails - they would not normally be nailed into drywall anchors as those are usually used for screws. <S> Most likely they are nailed into a stud which is why they are tough to pull out. <S> You just need to pry it off using the back of a hammer or a pry bar. <S> You can put a piece of wood behind whatever you are prying with so that you do not damage the drywall. <S> EDIT: <S> OK they do have an anchor attached to them. <S> Either way, same thing applies, just pull it out! <A> I had these exact same shelf clips and I found that the corner of a putty knife is perfect to pry out the nail just enough to get a small flat bar under the nail head. <S> Putty knife is flat and usually stiff/flexible metal that is needed to pry out the nail. <A> I was able to get the nail to come out enough and then grab it with pliers. <S> Then once the nail is out, the anchor is really easy to pull out. <S> I have a video available at http://youtu.be/T6BE45nCOiQ <S> Hope it helps! <A> These clips are in fact a nail with a drywall anchor. <S> I have installed them before. <S> In fact, I just completed doing a closet yesterday. <S> There are two types of the anchors, I'm not sure which brand is which, but one brand actually has a slot in the top of he head to "unscrew" the nail to remove the brackets. <S> This brand does not appear to have that. <S> When I installed my closet organizers, I decided to not use the nails and use screws with the anchors instead. <S> I also tried to find studs wherever possible. <S> If I could find a stud in the proper location, I snipped off the end of the built in anchor and screwed straight into a stud. <A> I had the same issue with my house closet. <S> Here's what you do, it worked for me. <S> Being that its a nail with now gripping <S> and it's deep in the anchor, get a pair of vice grip pliers, lock the pliers on to the anchor as tight as you can <S> right where the nail is, once you've clamped the pliers unto the anchor try to pull the anchor out. <S> Two things will happen, either the anchor will come right off with the nail attached, or the anchor will be removed just enough that you will be able to remove the nail with the back of your hammer. <S> Nonetheless you're still gonna need to patch up the hole. <A> I just did a whole bunch of these. <S> Take your needle nose pliers and press really hard around the nail head and grab the nail. <S> Squeeze really hard <S> and it will slide right out.
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I used a flathead screwdriver that was a part of my computer repair kit from RadioShack.
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Plywood floor gets inexplicably wet, what could possibly be the cause? House is on piers with insulation underneath. We had a plumber come look at it and he says he sees no pipes there, has no idea, cannot help. Every day there is about a 4 ftx4ft area of light water, with outlying smaller patches of water or moisture visible on the plywood. No one lives there while we are renovating. So, what are the long-term and short term consquences if we place laminate flooring on this large wet spot? My family does not believe my predictions, so perhaps they will believe you. I do this type of stuff for a living, btw. My paying clients follow my advice. This here is a family thing. <Q> Sorry im a little confused on what and were your house is loctated? <S> Piers like a beach house over water? <S> The plywood is the floor <S> it's self? <S> Or are you looking at the ply from under the floor?The only thing I can answer <S> is long term <S> will be mold if water continues to sit on ply <S> I wouldn't put any laminate down unless you figure what or were <S> your water issue is and if it is a beach house I will not recomend Laminant floor I would recomend tile. <A> Is the area where the water is sitting anywhere near the kitchen... <S> Could it be the fridge <S> leaking? <S> ... <S> I'm just throwing this out there because I had a friend, same issue, plumber came twice with no luck finding leaks under the house or in any pipes...turned out, it was the fridge (hooked up for water/ice), it was over 10ft away and somehow the water was trickling down under the flooring and stopping at the spot and building up into a puddle over the top..... <A> Is the heat and air conditioning turned on? <S> All houses 'breathe' and draw in moisture as the house cools down at night but will not expel all the moisture as the house heats up during the day. <S> If the house is occupied the heat and A/C and other air from opening/closing doors, windows, etc, will normally eliminate the moisture. <S> A couple of fans to facilitate the movement of the air will also help to keep the moisture from gathering in one particular area. <S> You should also add additional support under the wet area to re-level the floor.
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Try leaving a few windows open for a few days to ventilate the house and see if the problem clears up.
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Can my apartment's electricity harm my computer? Is there an easy way to test the electricity? I live in a (rented, 1980 built) row townhouse in the USA with slightly suspect electricity: A few of the outlets and light switches in the house (in various rooms) don't work at all. (Even allowing for some switched outlets.) My five year old desktop computer on the ground floor developed a bad power supply a few months after moving in. (After a cross-country trip in a moving van, and it is an old computer.) Plugging anything into one outlet on the ground floor often shorts out the rest of the stuff in the room. (We avoid using this outlet!) A 5-6 year old laptop's power adapter doesn't work on the ground floor, but does work upstairs. (A newer laptop works both upstairs and downstairs, so it's possibly a bad power supply on the old laptop.) Given that the computers in question are 5-6 years old, and we jostled them across the country moving, it's entirely possible that their time had/has come and they need to be replaced. However, before I buy and plug in a new desktop (or keep using my other newish computer) with this potentially suspect power, am I right to be concerned about it? Could the damage have been caused by the times we've shorted out the downstairs room? Or maybe slowly over time by bad power? If I had a multimeter or some other test device, could I test my outlets and/or electricity? Do I need to call an electrician? Should I just assume that my computer died of old age and replace it without worrying that the new one will meet a similar fate? <Q> Yikes, it sure sounds like you have several issues with your electical wiring there. <S> I won't speak too much to your power supply issue, but really think you should invest in a UPS to mitigate any power related damages to your equipment. <S> Now lets correct a few mistakes in the previous answer. <S> The 120VAC legs of your electrical service are supplied by two separate hot feeds from the power company. <S> The neutral is not there to split the 220VAC, but rather to supply a return path to the service panel and ultimately earth ground. <S> The neutral should be at the same potential as ground. <S> An open neutral is checked by measuring neutral to ground, if line voltage appears, then in fact the neutral path to ground is open. <S> Unless you have a situation where both 120VAC legs are in contact with one hot connection, you cannot produce more than 120VAC on any open neutral. <S> If you were to see 140VAC on any hot to ground or neutral, or neutral to ground, then you have some serious problems and time to call the landlord before you fry all your lights, appliances, and electronics. <S> This situation is very rare, and I don't think it is your problem. <S> Your problem sounds more like a bad connection, either hot or neutral in some device that feeds your downstairs outlets. <S> This can be a frustrating and time consuming job to track down this type of problem. <S> It may involve pulling several devices out of the boxes and testing voltages with the power on, and also testing conductivity with the POWER OFF. <S> Unless you have the experience and you feel very comfortable working on hot wiring, I'd suggest you have the landlord call in an electrician ASAP. <A> The worst electricity fault that a house or apartment can have is an open neutral. <S> The neutral is the wire that splits the 220V coming into the house into two different 110V feeds. <S> If the neutral is open, there is nothing keeping them both at 110V. <S> For example you could turn a light on, and the side with the light could drop to 80V, and the other would go up to 140V. <S> Some of the outlets in your apartment are tied to one side, the rest are tied to the other. <S> You can check for an open neutral by turning lights on and off throughout the apartment. <S> You shouldn't use your computer, in fact you should get it fixed immediately, it's quite dangerous. <S> Other possible faults include swapped wires on the outlet, open ground, open hot. <S> These can all be checked with a $5 outlet tester that you buy at Home Depot. <A> You can't do your own work on a rented unit because a licensed electrician must do all work in a rental unit . <S> This certainly sounds bad enough that it's not legal for it to continue in service. <S> If the landlord is not responsive, a talk with the local city electrical inspector may compel a repair, at the risk of having to move (because it may not be feasible to do repairs while the unit is occupied.) <S> That property manager may also not want to work with you at that point. <S> As far as dirty power, usually your worst enemy is the other stuff in your own home. <S> We have a small building where it's obvious the guy was on full defence against power problems, with every power conditioner known to man installed. <S> The building had a dedicated transformer . <S> And also a bunch of ratty old fluorescent ballasts. <S> Gee. <S> Got some nice GE ballasts with 99%PF, solved.
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If turning on a light in one room makes the light brighter in another, you have an open neutral. The electricity problems you describe are absolutely intolerable and I would request the landlord repair them immediately.
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Where can I find computer readable RGB values for brand name paints? Where can I find computer readable RGB values, or equivalents, for brand name paints such as Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, and Behr paints? [Edit] My interest was not so much about the specific color model of RGB, I basically needed some kind of quantitative description of available paint colors of big name brands. If RGB is not scientifically appropriate, whatever quantitative description is OK. <Q> If your looking for the RGB equivalent of a paint swatch, your probably better off looking at Pantone colors. <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pantone <S> If you go into Photoshop and click on the Color Picker in the toolbar, theres a Color Libraries button that'll show you a great many Pantone colors. <S> Click the one that matches the printed swatch and <S> when you go back to the color picker, you'll see the RGB value. <S> As wikipedia says, Pantone is pretty much an industry standard, used in painting, printing, etc... <S> I'm sure you can in turn give a Sherwin Williams or whoever and Pantone color code and have them mix paint for you (if thats what you want). <S> If you want to take photos of the room you want to paint, photoshop it with the color you want from a swatch, some of the websites (we used sherwin williams) have tools to do that also, but won't produce Pantone or RGB values :( -Mario <A> You can't. <S> RGB is sufficient to describe the colors to be put out by a monitor, but it is not sufficient to describe the reflectivity of a surface. <A> Found this site while looking for the RGB values of an Olympic paint. <S> Irregardless of all the free guesses given above, for Sherwin Williams you can find the RGB values easily. <S> Here are most if not all of them. <S> https://www.sherwin-williams.com/wcm/idc/groups/public/@swpublic/@sherwin-williams/@content/documents/webcontent/mdaw/mdaz/~edisp/sw-pdf-sherwin-williams-color.pdf <S> I know it was an old question, hope this helps the next person wandering by. <A> This will get it as close as you probably need. <S> http://www.easyrgb.com/index.php?X=TINT <A> I basically needed some kind of quantitative description of available paint colors of big name brands <S> Well, we need more info. <S> Are you asking for the 'number of colors offered'? <S> If so, then just call them up. <S> As for RGB values, RGB is a way to measure projected light--NOT reflected light. <S> RGB is for screens (which create colors via mixing Red, Green and Blue projected light). <S> Paint is reflected colors. <S> And is much different color space. <S> The range of projected RGB colors overlaps the range of reflective colors, but they don't exactly match. <S> In other words, there are colors that can be rendered via RGB that can't via paint and vice versa. <S> Pantone, as mentioned, is a good way to 'match' colors with a very particular description, but note that Pantone is typically a print color standard...for printing inks on paper. <S> And their numbers pertain to mixing pantone brand pigments--which a paint company may or may not be using. <S> You can certainly take a pantone swatch to a paint store, and they can optically match it, of course. <A> Paint colors. <S> You can indeed check the reflective value of a paint--the higher the Light Reflectance Value (LRV%) <S> the lighter the paint, thus it reflects greater light value. <S> RGB colors for many commercial brands and their named paints may be identified at <S> www.encycolorpedia.com Very helpful in judging color from a computer screen. <S> You'll also find the hex color code, and paint undertones--undertone knowledge is crucial. <S> Staff at paint counters will not be able to ID if the paint has green, or pink undertones, for example--these undertones are difficult to work with. <S> They mix formula RGB, CYK percentages. <S> Note the Benjamin Moore stores may have a staff Colorist to help further--BM paints are excellent interior paint--easy application, steadfast colors, easy to spot clean.
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You can buy Pantone swatches (I think their pretty expensive though) and then use Photoshop or something to find the equivalent RGB value.
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How should I run wiring for my above-fireplace mounted TV? I'm going to mount my 47" LCD above my fireplace. I'm not looking for arguments against this decision. I'm looking for wiring solutions. The diagram below should help explain the situation. _________________________________________________| | | | | | | | | | | || | | | | | | | | | | || | | | | | | | | | | || | | | | p | | m | | | | || | | | | | | | | | | || | | ################# | | || | | ## ## | | || | | ## ## | | || P| | ## ## m | |P C ||_____|_____|____##_____________##____|_____|_____| | = stud # = fireplace brick P = existing power outlet C = existing cable outlet p = new power outlet m = new media outlet Essentially, there is an existing power outlet on either side of the fireplace and a cable outlet on the far right side of the fireplace. I'm intending to put my non-TV media equipment on the right side of the wall and the television above the fireplace. This means I need two things above the fireplace: power and HDMI. I don't want to just run an HDMI cable in the wall. I'd prefer to have some sort of conduit to simplify replacing the cable or having a second (with one of these on each end: http://amzn.to/xYaxMn ). I only need to drill through two studs that are 6" apart above the right side of the fireplace in order to access the vertical space where I want the other end. For the power, I need to drill through two 6"-spaced studs above the left-side of the fireplace, but then another 2 full-height studs. There are a couple of caveats: This is an externally facing wall, which means there's insulation. I'm assuming this will make things more difficult. I'd like to refrain from cutting more holes in the wall than is necessary for the outlets (to reduce drywall damage/repair). I've considered a couple of options: Cut the openings for the outlets above the fireplace, and use a flexible drill bit to drill through the studs above the fireplace. This minimizes dry-wall damage, but how difficult is this with insulation in the wall, how can I feed the conduit through those holes, and how would I drill through the full-height studs on the left for power? Cut a wide section of dry-wall (4" high?) from the desired media outlet to the right until reaching the gap above the desired lower outlet. This results in some dry-wall damage, but would allow more control for drilling holes in the studs and running conduit. This still doesn't solve the problem of getting through the full-height stud for the power. For the power, I would need to extend the cut-out two studs further. What should I do? <Q> I agree with @DA01 that it'll basically be impossible to fish horizontally through studs and insulation, without having to cut open all of the sheetrock. <S> Then you have to deal with sealing it all back up air-tight, and patching the drywall and repainting (at least the entire wall, and maybe the entire room, depending the paint match). <S> So a couple alternatives: <S> Use a wiremold type product to surface mount the conduit: <S> There are lots of different brands, and it can be paintable. <S> With planning, you can minimize where you see it. <S> Build up the wall using cabinets or a false wall, so you can run wire in behind, on top of the existing wall. <S> Could be as simple as just a drywall section sticking out, or some built-in cabinets or some brick work. <S> Cabinets of course have the benefit of being able to build in other components such as your A/V gear and speakers. <A> If it's sheetrock, I'd bite the bullet and cut out a section. <S> Then you can easily remove insulation, drill studs, insert smurf tube and fish everything through easily. <S> With the smurf tube, it should be easy to re-fish future cables as needed. <S> (though with any luck we'll finally have wireless HDMI sooner or later...) <S> Yes it means you need to patch, tape, mud and paint when done, but that's likely easier than having to try and do it behind the wall as you go. <S> And I know asked us not to mention it, but I can't let it pass for the sake of other readers <S> ...be sure you really want it there. <S> TVs above the fireplace look great in magazines, but typically lead to really sore necks in reality. <A> It was mentioned by someone else and this is an old question but I wanted to specifically call out the option to make a service cavity. <S> You could fir out your existing wall with horizontal 2x4s laid sideways (shallow direction) attached with screws directly over the drywall. <S> Be careful not to use extra long screws. <S> Code requires electrical wire to be 1 1/4" back from the surface of the studs <S> so use screws that will not reach into the old wall further than 1.5" (1/2" drywall plus 1"). <S> Of course, do that at your own risk since the electrician on the job might have done who knows what. <S> The perk of the service cavity is that you have lots of room to fish whatever you want and should be able to fish things easily in the future. <S> The horizontal battens can work well to provide access to the typical height <S> you want your connectors at (behind tv level or traditional outlet height). <S> You get to leave your insulation, vapor/air barrier, and existing drywall alone. <S> In an older home, there can hazards associated with disrupting old drywall (asbestos, lead paint, etc). <A> Look for opportunities to run the wiring on the exterior side of the wall to the position you want it mounted on the interior side, then run it into the fireplace through the back side back into the house. <S> You will need to run conduit on the exterior for the the electrical, but the cable (CAT 5) can be tacked to the wall and brought in through a small hole. <A> I mounted mine above the fireplace also . <S> I have an attic. <S> Although near the wall of course is the area where there is no clearance due to the pitch coming to the soffit at this point. <S> I made use of my wiring rods. <S> I cut and installed the receptacle into the ceiling. <S> I have a console next to the fireplace for cable box, surround sound amp, PS3 ,DVD, etc. <S> I used the afore mentioned flat trough for the wiring from the console to the TV. <S> I have seagrass wall covering which I also applied to the wiring trough running the grain in the same direction. <S> It blends very well. <A> I moved the wiring for my rear speakers from the wall to the ceiling, when I bought new surround speakers. <S> I just cut a 1" channel to span the corner, rather than try to drill through the headers. <S> With all the changes I have made in my 3 houses, I have gotten very good at sheetrock "invisible mending". <S> Getting the wall smooth enough is easy, then I brush on the paint, and use a mini-roller to add texture. <S> The hard part is to match the paint, if you haven't saved any.
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I actually ran all the wiring in the attic .
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How can I mount speakers that don't have mount adapters? How can I mount a pair of speakers to my apartment walls? Specifically, how do I mount speakers that have no mounting points? They are from a turntable set from the 80's most likely before the standard was to include a screw hole or wall mount. What's the best way to go about this with the least amount of damage done to the speakers and the apartment wall? For those of you that were wondering Speaker Dimensions: 7.5 inches deep x 12 inches wide x 23 inches tall <Q> If the speakers are reasonably small, there are small mountings used to hang mirrors and paintings, that you could screw onto the back of the speakers. <S> Something like these: <A> For heavier speakers, I've used these guys in the past with excellent results. <S> I think they're rated for 50lbs each. <S> Plenty of adjustability and easy installation. <S> I used heavy-duty drywall anchors to mount mine. <S> Add some in-wall speaker wire and some wall plates with binding posts , and you've got a nice, clean install. <A> Most speaker housings have a lip you could cut a small groove in to make a hanging spot for them. <S> That is if you don't want to spend any money. <S> Otherwise Guffa has it spot on.
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If you check out a home theater/audio site like Parts Express , you'll find oodles of different ways to wall mount a speaker.
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What methods can be used to make a dark colored window become opaque? Currently, I have some problem regarding some windows, which are dark-colored. During the day time, people outside the windows cannot see people inside the windows. However, during the night time, people outside the windows can see people inside the windows. Some more, I cannot place bindings such as curtains as the owner of the house prohibit me from doing it. What methods I can use to prevent people outside the windows to view me? Note: The room have these dark-colored windows and the room is at the first floor. The room is directly opposite of a 4 lane road and the room is rented. Do let me know if further information are required. Extra information: I search but can only manage to find the following picture that have similar characteristics as the windows that I am referring to: <Q> During the daytime, the daylight outside reflects in the window and drowns out the light that comes from inside. <S> At night you have lights on inside, which of course increases the light that comes out. <S> Dimming the lights will reduce the amount of light that gets out. <S> So, there isn't much you can do, unless you install massive floodlights to light up the surroundings at night, to get the same effect as you have at daytime. <A> You're not allowed to install blinds or curtains, are you allowed to apply anything to the glass? <S> In order of most realistic to least I would suggest Applying a reflective coating / thin film to the windows, such as is used in one way glass <S> , I believe a consumer grade version of this can be purchased on a roll and may be made of mylar or some similar non-reactive plastic Place a decorative room divider such as <S> these between the window and the line of sight you wish to block. <S> You'll still get good light transfer during the day time but more privacy at night. <S> Using masking tape, painter's tape or some other easily removed solution, tape either a lightweight fabric or decorative paper over the windows. <S> It ruins your enjoyment of the window, but gives you the privacy you want <S> Barring any of these solutions ask the land lord for ideas, since they've likely dealt with it at this location before. <A> Perhaps the simplest method is to not mess with the windows at all. <S> Japanese Shoji Privacy Screen <S> If you set these up a foot or so inside the windows, they will still let light in during the day, but provide privacy at night. <A> You can go for the following options: <S> reflective coating masking tape simply use curtains on a glassed window
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The darkening of the glass only reduces the light that comes out the window, and at night there is no reflection to drown out the light, so the light from the inside can still be seen although it's reduced. They could even be completely set aside diring the day if desired.
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What is normally done to bridge skirting boards around an opening with different floor levels on each side? I have to attach some skirting boards on recently plastered walls and openings. The issue is that the floors on each side of the opening are at different levels, therefore the opening has a step on it. What usually happens with the skirting board on each side and around the opening? Do you not put the skirting board around the side of the opening? And if so, how do you finish the edge of the board to meet the opening so that it looks good? Obviously with the floor levels being different you cannot just wrap the skirting board around the opening as it will not line up on the other side. Hope this makes sense. Edit: Here is a picture. The step is not yet tiled, but it shows the level differences. <Q> Dimensions on your photo would help make a better model, but here is what I might do in this situation. <S> The easy way <S> End the upper trim with a bevel (30-45°) at the edge of the stair, then continue in the lower room as normal. <S> Transition <S> You may want to use a transition piece to pull the pieces together. <S> You may also want to bevel the upper trim into the transition piece. <S> The complex, lots of angle calculation, pain in the neck way <S> Cut a small angled transition piece from the upper trim, down to the lower trim. <S> In this case, you may still want to bevel the upper trim piece. <S> There's not really a right way to do something like this. <S> It's more about your preference, and the amount of work you're willing to do. <A> I see two obvious solutions: Use a different height skirting (shorter on the right or taller on the left) in each area so that the tops match. <S> Just use the same height skirting throughout and accept the that level of the skirting changes when the floor level changes. <S> With the frame to the doorway you can just butt up the skirting without having to make any tricky joints. <A> I wanted to case the corner, but I was outvoted by the project supervisor. <S> This is what I had on-hand (matches the doors), I'm sure you can find a better match if you want to make it look a bit smoother. <S> Looks decent from this angle <S> Here, you can see it edges out, since I didn't put the trim on both sides of the corner. <A> I tend to go for the same technique as I use on stairs - use an angled piece down each side. <S> This works well. <S> Depending on the drop you may need to use thicker skirting, or you may not - but you just cut your horizontal skirting as normal and cut your angled pieces to fit up against them.
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You could even cut an angle into the top of the transition, for a different look. I used door trim to break it up in a similar situation.
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How far apart should nails be when installing baseboards? I am using a nail/brad gun to install baseboard. How far should I space the nails? I want to make sure I hit some of the studs, but don't want to take the time to find exactly where all the studs are, so it seems better to space them a little closer. <Q> We usually tack the baseboard in place with one nail at each side, and then find the studs with a stud sensor, marking on the baseboard as we go. <S> Alternately, I would think that every 12 inches would be sufficient. <S> We also caulk the top of the baseboards with paintable latex caulk (which helps with dusting later), and that helps hold the baseboard to the wall too. <S> With shoe moulding (which I seriously recommend, especially on 2nd stories and pier on beam structures), it doesn't matter since the nails go into the baseboard first. <A> If you nail near the bottom, you can usually hit the horozontal boards under the studs in the wall and therefore can put nails anywhere. <S> I would just put them every 16 inches or 2 feet. <S> I would recommend using a stud finder to find the studs to nail near the top of the board. <S> Once you find one stud, you know to look every 16 inches from it. <A> It kind of depends on the height of the baseboard. <S> Small stuff you can get by with nailing on the bottom 2X4 along the wall. <S> In that case every 16 to 24"- enough to make it hold tight to the wall without movement. <S> If you have an old house with lots of irregularities in the floors or walls, it will require more attention and that may be another discussion all together. <S> Large baseboard (like 3 1/4 - 5 1/4" will require also hitting the studs along the way a few inches up. <A> Most of the time when the old base is off you can usually see if there are nails in the bottom of the sheet rock messure those to see if the 16 on center if they are figure how high your trim is the mark ur studs right above where ur caulk will go to cover the mark.
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I would hit every 16" on top with about every 24" on bottom as long as you know you are hitting the bottom plate.
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Can I apply water based polyurethane over oil based polyurethane and vice versa? I can see brush strokes on a dining table from a previous application of polyurethane. I want to sand these and re-apply polyurethane. I do not know whether the previous application was a water-based or oil-based product. What should I do? <Q> What you will want to do is to get a polyurethane stripper with brush, a pair of rubber gloves, a scraping tool, fine grit sandpaper (200), a clean cloth, and a well ventilated room. <S> Start by applying the polyurethane stripper liberally and evenly over the wood using the brush. <S> Let it stand for about 5 minutes or whatever the directions instruct you to do. <S> Using the scraping tool, gently scrape off the polyurethane in the direction of the wood grain, taking care to remove the scrapings as you go along using a clean cloth. <S> Once the scraping is completed, lightly sand the wood in the direction of the grains until the surface is smooth. <S> You're now ready to apply the finish of your choice, whether it be polyurethane, a stain, or paint. :) <A> Just did a little research: http://woodworking.about.com/od/finishing/p/polyurethane.htm <S> I couldn't find out whether it needs to be the same as the previous application. <S> IMHO, I don't think it needs to be the same, unless you're trying to match how it looks with other parts of the table. <S> I would decide based on: <S> how tolerant you are the odor of the finish (if 'not tolerant' than choose water-based) <S> is there a high chance of water stains on the table (if "not", choose water-based) <S> do you need it to dry quickly (if "yes", choose water-based) <A> Without seeing how deep the brush marks are, it is hard to advise if a simple sanding or more drastic stripping is needed. <S> If they are fairly superficial, I'd try sanding with 150 grit paper on a DA or vibe type sander first. <S> If it seems like it's gonna take sanding all the way to the wood to get rid of the marks, then stripping may be easier. <S> As far as what type of urethane to use. <S> I usually prefer oil based because it gives a deeper coat and usually only needs 3 or 4 coats for a really nice finish. <S> The down side of oil based is that it takes longer to dry, can smell a bit and must be applied smoothly to avoid those brush marks. <S> I almost always use a high density foam brush for small pieces. <S> Apply it, smooth it quickly and don't overwork it. <S> Always sand lightly with 220 or finer paper between coats. <S> Water based urethanes are easy to use, clean up after and dry fast. <S> They are very thin (watery) and tend to be much more self leveling than oil based. <S> The big disadvantage of water based urethane is that it takes three coats to give the same depth and look as one coat of oil. <S> I did a bar with water based for a customer once, and it took 15 coats to give the look they wanted. <S> So I determined that water based was fine for protection and utility use, but oil is best suited for furniture and surfaces where looks and durability count. <A> Shellac works well because it binds to water-based and oil-based polyurethanes while keeping the two separated. <S> Of course, wait for each coat to dry before applying the next one. <S> As far as your specific situation though, it sounds like you intend to sand the runs out anyway, so it wouldn't hurt to strip <S> /sand all the way down to the bare wood and start fresh <S> so you don't have to worry about how each layer affects the others. <S> If you have the patience to clean everything and start from scratch, it's always nice to know what went into your finish so you can easily maintain it in the future.
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The general answer to your question is yes, you can apply one over the other - with a caveat - since oil and water don't mix you'll need a sealer coat in between the two.
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How to secure a doggy door from intruders? I installed a doggy door so that our dog can go in/out when it has to go to the bathroom while we are at work/away. It lets him out into our fenced in backyard. The gates are deadlocked, but obviously this does not completely secure the house from determined intruders. If someone were to breach our fence, the intruder might easily fit into our doggy door. Other than the cover that was provided with the kit which I easily broke into, what is a good way to secure a doggy door from unwanted intrusions? <Q> Forget securing the door, and install a security system with a motion sensor. <S> Put labels up outside saying there is a security system (some people only put labels up, and don't have a real system). <S> Even if you have a door with a locking mechanism, if someone manages to defeat it (eg, kicks it open) or you forget to lock it, you still have the alarm go off. <S> Most motion sensors are "pet safe" in that it takes something over eg, 40 lbs or 80lbs to actually trigger (they have a rating and there are different sizes, so you can get a lower rating if you have a poodle and a bigger one if you have a great dane). <A> They make locks for the doors that only unlock when the collar worn by the dog is within a few feet. <S> There's this product: <S> http://www.petdoors.com/cat-mate-electronic-cat-doors.html . <S> It's a cat door, but it works on the same principle. <S> Also, most of these you can set to 'allow onyl departures' or 'only arrivals' as well. <S> - might not be applicable to your situation, but good to know. <S> Also, while I appreciate your plan for security, keep in mind that this is really only a deterrence against meddling kids - if people want in, they will get in regardless. <A> When I was growing up we had a simple system on the dog door into our garage, it was 1/4" thick steel plate that was slightly larger than the opening and a set of rails on two sides and the bottom of the door. <S> When we were away and wanted to secure the door, we simply slid the plate into the slides with the handle that was on the back, and flipped a hasp down over it. <A> Provide the dog with its own shed in the garden, so it does not need to access your home. <S> Or have a 2nd very strong door between the room with the outside door and the rest of your home, limit the dog to that room and fix an alarm to the rest of the home. <A> If your door is installed in a wall [ONLY] - go to home depot and get a metal pole about 2" thick and about 12" taller than the top of the dog door [to the floor]. <S> Core a 2 1/2" thick hole into your slab approximately far enough away to allow your dog to get into and out of the dog door without a problem, but close enough that a person can't get their body around. <S> Make sure you core the hole aligned with the middle of the dog door. <S> Slide the pole into the hole and fill around it with quikcrete. <S> You now have a barrier that your dog can easily maneuver around, but it is now impossible for a person to slide in and out of the dog door. <A> A variation of the pole in the floor is a little more elaborate but less likely to create a crack in the garage floor or other damage. <S> I saw a neighbor of a friend's system, a police captain in Washington DC, who had installed a short 3/4 inch plywood wall parallel to the garage wall and just far enough from the original wall to allow the flap to open and the dog to squeeze in. <S> The wall was about 1 1/2 times the height of the dog door and about twice the width and offset as described above. <S> Then the wall was anchored to the original wall with "braces" of 2X4 anchored to the original wall in four places; top and bottom on both sides with lag screws to the original garage framing. <S> It sounds all complicated but it is very simple and cheap and effective. <S> Interestingly, the neighborhood is bad and his dog passed away and the doggy door with the small chain link fence outside still apparently acts as an intrusion deterrent. <S> I live in SW Virginia near a drug rehab place and have had drugged up characters <S> wander onto my property and INTO my open garage several times. <S> Adding the "maze" (as my granddaughter calls it) took about an hour and cost me used plywood, one 2X4 for less than two dollars and a handful of 1/2X3 lag screws. <S> I think I paid another two or three dollars for at Lowe's.
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Once I put up a dog run attached to the house and a similar doggy door system, NO more weirdos in my garage.
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Why is my washing machine so loud during the spin cycle? I have a top loading washing machine. It is sitting on the bottom of a rack. The dryer is sitting on the top shelf of a rack. (The rack was made to stack these two units on top of each other). During the spin cycle the washing machine is really loud. Is this typical? I've heard washing machines that has a similar sound but not the same volume! What could be the issue with it, if there is one? How to fix it? UPDATE The washing machine is actually not physically sitting on the rack. It has wheels and is sitting on the floor. The rack structure is really to loft the dryer above the washer. I also checked to make sure that all wheels are touching the ground. <Q> The spin cycle is normally the loudest part of the washing program. <S> To compare the sound of your machine with others, you should consider whether it's designed to be extra quiet or not, and whether it has a high-speed spin cycle or not. <S> My washing machine has a 1200 RPM high speed spin cycle, but it's designed to be quiet <S> so it's not very loud anyway. <S> It also has the option to run the spin cycle at a slower speed, which makes it even more quiet. <S> You can buy rubber washers designed to be placed under the feet of the washing machine, which will reduce the vibrations in your rack. <S> Although the spin cycle is noisy, you should listen if there is a banging noise or if it's just loud. <S> If there is a banging noise the clothes may be unevenly balanced (overload?), or there may be something wrong with the suspension so that it can't absorb the vibrations. <A> To balance a washing machine all you need is torpedo level and an adjustable wrench. <S> Each foot is adjustable with a lock nut. <S> Loosen the lock nut and make the leg longer or shorter then tighten the lock nut to keep it from vibrating and changing height. <S> With the torpedo level in the middle of the front check for level. <S> Repeat on the sides <S> and then the back. <S> Now by tilting the machine adjust the feet to where you think they need to be. <S> Check again with level until you get it where it should be. <S> The floors are not level so not all will be the same. <S> If you end up with all the legs too high then just lower them equally and re-check until level. <S> Older machines might need persuasion, penetrating oil and/or channel locks. <S> Don't forget to loosen or tighten the lock nuts or all your work will be in vain. <S> This might not be the answer, but it won't hurt it being level. <A> New ones are very quiet (well mine is 1400rpm). <S> I had a very loud built-in washing machine once; just adding some folded up cardboard to where it hit against the kitchen unit reduced the noise substantially. <S> Maybe you can do something similar.
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I think its quite common, especially top loaders (the physics means its harder to dampen vibrations) and older washing machines.
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Determining the correct depth of a well My wife and I are looking to buy our first home and have found some promising prospects. One of the homes we like is in what use to be a rural area. Since this house was in a rural area when it was built, it uses a well and septic instead of the city's water system. Upon further investigation, we learned that 6 other homes share the same well and they all contribute to the maintenance of it. Our concern with the well is its depth. We would hate to buy a home that in may run out of water. How does one determine the correct size and depth of the well needed? <Q> The well needs to be far enough down to reach the underground water table. <S> There may be certain requirements put forth by your local area (township, county, state), but other than that, there's not usually a "correct" depth. <S> As Doresoom said, your best bet will be to ask the neighbors. <S> They'll know whether there's enough water. <S> Keep in mind, though, that with well water, there is always going to be a chance that you'll run out <S> (if it doesn't typically, a particularly long drought might make you run out). <S> That said, it's not uncommon for people to build a second (or even third) <S> well, if they have more than one deposit of water under their land. <S> So I wouldn't discount the house just because of the well. <S> Also, since the house is now within city limits, you also probably have the option to hook into the city's water supply (but this might not be the case for all of the houses you've looked at, so the other information may still be useful). <S> Also, there are a number of ways to help conserve water, or use different water sources. <S> If you're the type that likes to water their lawn, or wash their own car, or keep a garden, you would probably benefit from installing rain barrels to catch the water run-off from the buildings on your property (if you use the water for anything that you will eat or drink, such as a food garden, make sure you have it tested regularly, <S> and/or run it through your filter system). <S> You just have to get creative. :) <A> There really is NO correct depth for a well. <S> In fact, if the well is too deep, you can have problems. <S> For example, there may be a layer of salt if you go too deep. <S> This can be resolved by questioning the neighbors - is the water supply sufficient? <S> I'd suggest that as important a question is if the water is good to use. <S> Have that well water tested before you buy. <S> It can be expensive to clean up water if that becomes necessary. <A> The correct depth of a well probably involves several factors such as soil permeability, the level of the water table, and annual rainfall in the area. <S> They should be willing to share the information with a potential new neighbor/well-sharer. <S> How much water does each household with access to the well use per month? <S> Check your current utility bills to make sure they line up with the amount of water available. <S> Keep in mind, if you live in an apartment without a dishwasher or clothes washer in the unit, the amount of water you use will go up when moving to a house. <S> Can they remember a dry spell/drought in which they did not have enough water, or had to ration it? <S> If so, how often does this happen? <S> When I was growing up, we lived in a house with a well in the basement, and my mother always had to check the water level before running a load of laundry during the summer. <S> Does anyone who shares the well water their lawn with the well water? <S> Are you planning on watering your lawn? <S> I'm sure there are more water-usage questions to ask - <S> these were just a few off the top of my head.
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All that matters is if the well is deep enough to draw sufficient water for your needs. I'd think the easiest way to determine if the well will supply enough water is to ask the neighbors who are already using it.
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Ethernet cable instead of Thermostat wire? I need to pull new wire from my furnace to my thermostat and was wondering if there would be any problems in using an Ethernet cable instead of standard thermostat wiring. The reason being is I have left over cat6 cable and figured the wire should suffice in place of spending cash on a 4-wire thermostat cable. fwiw: the run will be approximately 50'. If the cat6 wiring will suffice, should I use both twisted wires as one? Or just a single wire from each twisted pair? i.e., Orange/OrangeWhite to 1 hvac connectionorOrange to 1 hvac connection <Q> I wouldn't do it. <S> The next poor sod (who may be you) trying to fix something (or perhaps changing the system!) <S> is expecting to find properly colored #18 AWG wire. <S> Instead they'll find #24 wire in all these weird (to them) colors. <S> You're saving yourself some money now, and making someone else's life difficult down the line. <S> And of course, if you or someone else later change to a system that requires the #18 wire, then it's got to be ripped out and re-run, which is another pain in the neck for someone. <S> I advise against doing non-standard things that are going to cause someone extra work in the future! <A> For simplicity, it's probably easier to use each pair as if it were a single wire. <S> That makes is easier to remember what is what at each end and clearer to anyone looking at it years later. <A> The big question is if your thermostat/furnace is line voltage or low voltage (24V usuaully). <S> If it is line voltage, then no, this might be outright dangerous and a fire hazard (ethernet is not rated for this type of voltage). <S> If it is low voltage, there is no reason why this wouldn't electrically work, at least in the short term. <S> I would however worry about if the cat6 can stand up to the higher temperatures near your furnace, and whether the cable could itself be a fire hazard. <S> Ethernet can be quite fragile compared to bell wire (for example); it is of higher gauge and the insulation is not as robust. <S> The high-speed properties of ethernet (twisted pair, pair ratios, wire arrangement, etc.) is of no importance here <S> so there is no real reason to use more than a single conductor. <S> If anything this might just confuse the next person working on it. <S> If it were my house, I would not use this. <S> Thermostat wire is cheap, safe and proven. <S> The savings by using leftover cable is easily exceeded if this setup fails (needs replacement), or worse yet, causes damage to your furnace, thermostat or house. <A> Here is the real deal. <S> National Electrical Code. <S> CL1 and CL2 rated cable is the only approved method. <S> Yes, almost every heating & cooling unit is electronically controlled, 24vac and extremely low current. <S> Even the thermostats are battery powered and only signal heat/cool and fan. <S> 5 conductors is the standard for heat/cool unless someone fingers the controller board around a bit. <S> Keep in mind that thermostat could actually be switching the A/C condenser unit also. <S> Those little contacters NEED full voltage and current to completely pull in and prevent contact failure. <S> Just my 2 cents. <S> Thanks <A> The 24V system in a HVAC typically has a fuse or breaker for either 3 amps or 5 amps. <S> Sometimes it is a fuse on the control board and sometimes it is a breaker built into the transformer. <S> Typically, the current is about 0.5 amp - 1.5 amp in the 24V system when the AC or heat are running. <S> The 24V control board usually shows the expected current flow. <S> At 1 amp in a 24V system with the thermostat 50 feet from the HVAC control board (100 feet total -- 50 feet of red or yellow plus 50 feet of white make the circuit ) there is a 1.5 volt drop through the resistance of 100 feet of 18 gauge wire. <S> If you drop that wire down to 24 gauge, then there is 5.3 volt drop at 1 amp across the same distance. <S> That's in a normally operating system. <S> If the system has a problem and runs 3 amps it might not trip the breaker or fuse, so there would be no indication of a problem. <S> At 3 amps in that same 24V system, there would be 16 volts dropped due to resistance in that 24 gauge wire, but less than 4 volts dropped due to resistance in 18 gauge wire. <S> Remember that the only thing limiting current in this system is either a 3 or 5 amp fuse or breaker, so any system problem causing current just below those limits might go on indefinitely without any indication. <S> You're taking a heck of a chance of a fire by using 24 gauge wire in this application. <A> My 24 VAC transformer is rated at 40 VA. <S> So that would translate to a rating of 1.67 Amps on the 24 VAC side. <S> Cat-6 uses 24-gauge wire which according to this site: https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm rates 24-gauge at 3.5 amps for chassis wiring and 0.577 amps for power transmission. <S> So a short run of CAT-6 might be OK, but I'd tend to think of wall wiring as more in the power transmission category and go with 18 gauge. <A> Household stats are 24v. <S> 450ma max because the transformer can only output that much, so <S> difference in stats won't matter. <S> POE is upwards of 50 volts and each strand of cat5 is rated up to 60v and 630ma. <S> That's at least 10% wiggle in amperage and obviously more on the voltage. <S> The wire is capable. <S> If it's plenum, then it's fire rating is also sufficient. <S> At the same time, 50' of stat wire is like $20...
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Ethernet cable should work fine since thermostats use low voltage and low current. Don't do it. But it should only be solid core (riser cable), not stranded.
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Is it ever safe to have 14 gauge wire anywhere on a circuit protected by a 30 amp breaker? I was doing some work in an old house I recently moved into, and found that my dishwasher and garbage disposal (and some outlets near them) are on a 30 amp breaker. However, some of the electrical wiring going between the disposal and the wall switch is yellow, which implies 12-gauge, 20 amp-rated wire (right?). How dangerous is this situation? What should be done, if anything? <Q> If the #14 or #12 wire is a branch going to specific loads, then it is "safe" with respect to that load. <S> It won't overload that wiring regardless of the breaker capacity use (or even if the breaker is bypassed entirely). <S> However, this is unsafe in the context of changes in usage. <S> The electrical code focuses on safety and rightly prohibits this. <S> This is because someone could overload the circuit (for example plugging in a 12 amp appliance in one outlet and another 12 amp appliance in another outlet on the same circuit, which should trip a 20 amp breaker and would not trip a 30 amp breaker). <S> In USA, all 15 amp receptacles are actually rated at 20 amps (just not configured to accept a 20 amp plug). <S> So if you have 20 amp wire (usually #12 if the special cases requiring derating do not come into play), you can use a 20 amp breaker (one more exception in the code <S> is <S> if the branch circuit has a single dedicated outlet, it must be protected at the outlet designated amperage). <S> Since the normal type of outlets don't have a 30 amp capacity, you can't use a 30 amp breaker on them even if you have 30 amp wiring (usually #10), and meet the electrical code. <S> The receptacles can overheat, too. <S> You may need to split circuits if this branch is pulling too much current. <A> One important thing to remember is that appliances don't always run at full load and therefore don't always consume full power. <S> So it's quite likely that the described setup will run okay for ages. <S> I've seen many circuits running on undersized wires - they didn't even heat up enough to be notices by touching the insulation with one's hand. <S> Yet the code is there to ensure safe operation with some safety factor. <S> In your case maximum ampacity is 20 amps, so the wire will run at up to 50% overload sometimes . <S> You may be lucky and get away with it or you may be unlucky and get a fire started. <S> The only way to ensure safe operation is to use wire with at least the required ampacity. <A> How about we just use the right wire with the right beakers. <S> Electrical code is written for a reason. <S> there's no way around it in my opinion. <S> When we follow the code we protect our own interests and the interests of our family and customers. <A> It's bad, with one exception. <S> There's a reason you can get away with it. <S> Since you're serving hardwired loads, you don't have a case of someone plugging in a microwave and toaster and George Foreman all at the same time. <S> So the hardwired appliance will naturally limit current to safe levels until it malfunctions . <S> And then you'll have no protection at all, and your house will burn. <S> The law of the land says you don't get to roll the dice like that, and the breaker must be appropriate for the wire and appliance. <S> The exception relates to certain motor loads. <S> In that case you are allowed to use the normal wire size for that motor, but upsize the breaker based on a formula.
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The circuit breaker is required to be sized to protect all wiring in the branch circuit it feeds to (and the receptacles, too). More likely it is starting to fail, and "the last guy" upsized the breaker rather than deal with it. In your case it is to replace the undersized segments of the wire. A disposal is a motor load, but I would be surprised to see the exception invoked for one of those.
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What are the differences between SDS, SDS Plus, and SDS Max drills? Basically I had to use a breaker last weekend, it was clear I did not need the “heavy duty” as I did not have 6” of solid concrete, but the descriptions of the other options confused me. <Q> The SDS chuck system was the original developed by Bosch. <S> SDS Plus is an improvement on the original SDS system, but remainscompatible with SDS bits, and is now the most commonly seen on themarket. <S> SDS Max is designed for the heaviest masonry work, and isincompatible with SDS/SDS+ bits. <S> (source: wikimedia.org ) <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drill_bit_shank#SDS_shank <A> For easier identification: SDS and SDS plus are 10 mm diameter - and interchangeable. <S> SDS Max is 18 mm diameter <S> SDS Max is for heavier work, with 4 times the cross section shank. <A> Really I would suggest using SDS Max on the larger projects where you are doing some Demo. <S> SDS Plus is however a lot lighter and easier to move around with, as long as you dont need to go super heavy duty. <S> You can get adaptors to convert between systems like SDS Max, Plus and Spline. <S> SDS Max Shank Carbide Bit: <S> SDS Plus: <S> You can find some good photos of the various bit types at www. <S> BuildersDepot.com. <S> Link: <S> https://www.buildersdepot.com/carbide-drill-bits.html <A> In short, sds + is for light duty applications (drilling for ledger boards and light demo), sds max is for people who work with and demolish concrete professionally. <S> I build decks and fences. <S> For me sds + does everything I could ask. <S> Good for breaking up old peirs, drilling multiple large (up to 1") holes in brick or concrete.
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It sounds like for your application, SDS Plus would be the way to go, given that they are generally less expensive, and you don't have really tough masonry work to do.
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How to finish wood in the winter? If you want to stain and varnish indoor wood furniture during the winter, how do you do it? It's below freezing outdoors, but I don't want fumes to accumulate in the house. <Q> In general, once I've closed the can and am only waiting for the piece to dry the fumes tend to get much less noticeable <S> and I can start closing the window. <S> This method doesn't prevent fumes from reaching other rooms, since they can travel through the ducts or even under the door, and so on, but you can reduce those fumes by closing the house ducts to that room, putting a towel over registers/returns/bottom of door. <S> With this method you'll want a heater for the room. <S> I've used electric oil filled heaters <S> but you'll just want to keep in mind that the fumes can be flammable, <S> so keep your venting method running. <A> I usually stain or apply brushed or rolled on finishes inside. <S> Spray finishes I do in the garage, but quickly, then I immediately bring things inside to dry in an isolated room (usually the master bedroom, which has an attached bathroom.) <S> I leave the fan on in the bathroom, which pulls the fumes out. <S> If you're spraying from rattlecans or a gun, it's important to keep the materials inside until you're ready to spray, or they'll go on strangely because they're cold and sluggish. <S> Your compressor needs to be outside though or you'll get serious amounts of condensation in the air lines. <A> I have a huge problem with paint and stain fumes. <S> I love these projects but the fumes really get to me. <S> Today I found a good solution. <S> I am very proud. <S> Like said above, put the done woods in a closed room and close off the heater vent in that room. <S> Use a fan and open a window. <S> What I did was add a fragrance oil burning kit. <S> The room will smell pleasant. <S> Note: always wear protective glasses and mask when painting + staining. <S> You will be less dizzy than me when you are done.
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In the past what I have done is to isolate 1 room, generally in the basement, increase the heat to that room and open the window while running a fan.
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Can I run CAT5/6 cables parallel to electrical cables? I am building a new house and am planning to hardwire network cables into each room. Can I run CAT5/6 cables parallel to electrical wires without introducing any general safety issues or losing much in connection quality? Wiring runs for up to 25 metres from patch panel and distribution board in garage to rooms. My research indicates that is should be fine if they are in separate conduits or if the CAT cables are shielded. <Q> Typical is to run electrical down one stud and the Cat5/6 down a different stud. <S> Basically do the same as you would for telco. <A> You want to keep low voltage and high voltage separate so that stray nails, screws, and staples installed by less attentive individuals in the future can't puncture the cables and turn your low voltage wire into high voltage. <S> There is always a chance some idiot is going to stick something electrically conductive where he ought not, and he probably shouldn't pay with his life for the mistake. <S> (Nor should the home owner employing the idiot.) <S> That's good to keep in mind even outside of construction/home improvement situations. <S> I have no idea what code actually says, but conduit is probably sufficient for the task, and shielded cable isn't. <S> Distance would be the best option. <A> I'm not sure how much the separation needs to be. <S> One thing I found says 24" unless things are shielded. <S> If one or the other is shielded by metal conduit then you could use 12". <S> If both are shielded 6". <S> It was all alphabet soup. <S> I could not find a official standard. <S> Data cables, coax, and low voltage in general should not run parallel to mains power. <S> While people mention the need to avoid interference, the main thing to watch out for is induction. <S> Interference will be annoying to equipment, but stray voltages will be destructive. <S> I had someone run coax along 120 AC in my house. <S> It ruined a few cable boxes, a network router, and at least one motherboard. <S> Once I moved the coax over a few feet these problems went away. <S> So two feet for parallel runs with any required crossings happening at 90 degrees is the rule I personally use. <A> Most likely there is not a safety issue here if you are running parallel to standard plastic-sheathed NM / romex wire, but you may see reduced speeds. <S> It's certainly not against code. <S> You should at least use CAT 5e over CAT 5, as it is shielded better and can almost work at Gigabit speeds. <S> CAT 6a would be your best bet, but probably a little overkill for you. <S> When I built, I ran 5e in my house, and tried to keep it away from the the electrical as much as I could. <S> There was some crossover and parallel runs, but it was kept at a min <S> and I have been getting near gigabit speeds. <S> Note, manufactures have been using the term CAT6e, which does not appear to be a true spec. <S> Seems like they are loosely using that as CAT6 with extra shielding. <S> CAT6a on wikipedia . <S> Here is an article I found: differences between cat5 cat5e cat6 and cat6e cables <A> Its very simple; just don't put your Ethernet cables near any of power cables. <S> Run your data cables 10" to 12" from your power cables. <S> For future updates, put your cables inside conduit so that you can pull more cables or replace cables in the future. <A> I was told if the cable was rated at the same voltage as your power.you could even run them in the same pipe. <S> Plus cat5 is twisted which also reduces electromagnetic interference. <S> I actually had to put data and power in the same pipe for a fuel station <A> I think not a good idea, every power cable creates an electromagnetic field <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_induction which will influence the other cables at least will lead to disturbances and errors. <A> Any cat cable that isn't S/FTP or F/FTP is going to cause problems if you simply want the outlets to be relatively close to the electrical ones (6" or so between the two), specially in the long run. <S> You don't want to go cheap with ethernet cables and this is important as there are good reasons for it. <S> Same thing goes with doors and windows of the house when you are buying or building a new one, or just want to change them as it's time for it after so many years... <S> that's right, you don't go cheap.
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While a shielded Cat5/6 cable is designed to protect itself from outside interferance, it isn't recommended to run them side-by-side to your electrical wiring. As others have mentioned, there could be some interference.
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Is urethane-based grout worth the cost for bathroom tile? We are beginning a project to tile the master bathroom. The local tile shop where we are purchasing the tile is recommending a urethane-based grout (specifically Bostik TruColor Pre-Mixed Grout ). I am sure there are other brands as well. It is like 4x the cost of traditional grout, but apparently has better characteristics like anti-mold, cracking, fading, etc. There is no need to seal the grout as well. Does anyone have any experience working with these grouts? Apparently they are newer and have not been around too long, how are they holding up? Is this newer product catching on or is it still too new to tell? I can afford the cost, but is it really worth it? UPDATE: A few more facts. We are not going to be installing this ourselves for various reasons. We have not yet contacted our installer to see if he has used it, and what his preference is. We will do so and I will report what he recommends as well. <Q> Again, they're newer products. <S> There's two downsides to the urethane grouts I looked at. <S> The first is that the dry time before water exposure is something like seven days ... <S> again, this is the last time I looked at it, and that might have changed. <S> The urethane grouts are supposedly easy to clean, HOWEVER, every tile guy I've talked to has said it's not a product for newbies. <S> I haven't worked with them personally, because my go-to is Spectralock by Laticrete. <S> Spectralock is an epoxy grout, and can be had at Lowe's or through your tile supplier. <S> You mix two parts goo with one part colored sand, and you get a very consistent and easy to apply grout. <S> You have to pay careful attention to the setup time and the cleaning instructions, though, because they will leave a haze on your tile as the epoxy sets up if you don't clean promptly, and it sets up quickly. <A> I've used sanded urethane grout from StarQuartz and Bostik for floor, dry-area wall, and in-shower tile wall. <S> Walls joints (bone color) are about 5mm and floor joints (ash gray color) are 8mm. <S> It has held up quite well for about six years so far. <S> It must be mixed, slowly, with a hand trowel, not a hand drill, so as not to entrain air bubbles. <S> It must be applied with an epoxy float and packed hard into the joints. <S> If you are not exhausted and don't have beads of sweat rolling down your face after doing nine square feet, you've been slacking off. <S> In one very small area in the shower, between soap dishes, I did not pack it as tightly as it should have been, and it is crumbling from a few joints there. <S> Everywhere else, it is fine. <S> Obtaining a small amount to repair that six-inch area is proving to be very difficult. <S> It's sold by the gallon. <S> Although the urethane product is advertised as having, unlike cementitious grouts, a minute amount of flex to it, the flex is not enough to handle the flexing at change in plane between floor and wall. <S> Use water-proof matching-color caulk there. <S> Haze clean up is easy and not time-sensitive, as it is with epoxy. <S> I purposely left a test panel haze on for a week, and it cleaned off very easily with a non-scratch scrubby pad and the haze-cutting solution provided by the manufacturer. <S> It's a tiny bottle, about 3 ounces, and it is added to 5 gallons of water. <S> Do not clean it with enzymatic cleaners. <S> SoftScrub has worked well. <S> Would I do it again? <S> Probably not in the shower. <S> Yes on the floor and dry wall areas. <S> In the shower, I would use epoxy grout, but only after some practice runs on a test-panel, so see what I was up against in terms of removing the epoxy haze. <S> Epoxy would allow a wider choice in cleaning products. <A> I've been doing tile work for about 13 years along with many different renovation skill sets. <S> I have to say that urethane grout is the worst type of grout I have ever used. <S> I recently did an entire bath with Bostik white. <S> Needless to say that it sure as hell wasn't white. <S> Applying it to the floor wasn't that bad, but you could only do a small area because of the 5 minute window to wipe it up. <S> Otherwise it would bond to the tile like glue. <S> Never had that problem with sanded/unsanded grout. <S> The worst was putting it on the shower walls. <S> More ended up on the floor than the wall. <S> And the texture & color looked like light colored cinder block mortar. <S> It looked hideous. <S> Had white ice tile with the ugliest joints because the urethane didn't hold the pigment. <S> I mixed it several times and the pigment would rise to the top after while. <S> Mixed it again, same results. <S> I don't like to work harder than I have to. <S> Especially on such a simple task like grouting. <S> They claim that it doesn't have to be sealed or hardly ever cleaned. <S> I ain't gonna hold my breath on that. <S> So, it certainly is not worth the money due to working with it <S> is a royal p.i.t.a. <S> & it doesn't look like a typical unsanded grout joint. <S> I could have done 3 baths with normal grout in the time I did the one with urethane.
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I, and many tile pros, aren't fans of the pre-mixed urethane grouts.
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Can I hang a bathroom shelf with command strips or something similar? I'm currently living in an apartment that doesn't allow me to put anything larger than a finishing nail sized hole in the wall. I have a small bathroom shelf that I would like to put up that consists of a lightweight metal frame with three tempered glass shelves as well as a towel rack on the bottom. Initially my thoughts went to the 3M command strips. I know they have picture hanging strips that essentially consists of velcro on top of command strips. But I have a feeling that this wouldn't hold up and the shelf would fall down. So I was thinking it might work out to buy the plain command strips and put them directly on the back of the shelf where it would contact the wall. I see that they're rated for around 5lbs each and I believe loaded the shelf wouldn't be more than 10lbs or so. I'm just curious if this would work or if it might end up causing more damage than just putting holes in the wall? Does anyone have any experiences with hanging something of this nature without damaging the wall? <Q> I would not risk hanging a glass shelf with those strips. <S> They are meant for hanging things directly from (like a towel, hair dryer, etc.), not a shelf that sticks out. <S> Instead of just pulling down on the strip, it will pull down and away, almost a guaranteed recipe for broken glass. <S> If you are able to get the shelf anchored into a stud then the hole should not be all that large - it's the drywall anchors that tend to make larger holes. <S> If the wall was concrete you might be able to glue it to the wall, but this will leave a larger mess (leftover glue that someone has to scrape off) than screws in drywall. <S> Perhaps you could offer to repair any damage you are responsible for? <S> Otherwise you should get a free-standing shelving unit. <A> Step 1: Go to Home Depot or Lowes and raid the paint department for paint cards that look similar to the color of your bathroom wall. <S> Step 2 <S> : Take the cards home and hold them up to the wall one at a time. <S> You may want to get a friend to stand outside the room or get as far away as possible and view the card from multiple angles. <S> Turn the lights on and off, etc. <S> The card that completely (or mostly) 'disappears' in all viewing circumstances is your match. <S> Now that you know you can find a match for the paint: <S> Step 3: <S> Mount the shelf to the studs with screws. <S> When you move out, go get a sample can of paint (usually only around $3) in the color <S> you determined your wall to be. <S> Mud over the screw holes, sand, and paint. <S> I did this when I moved out of my apartment, and it saved me from getting hit with a ridiculous $50+ repair fee for a couple screw holes. <S> Just make sure the paint samples are available in the same sheen as your wall. <S> Most apartments are simply flat paint, since it's the cheapest option. <S> Fortunately, most paint samples are available in flat as well. <A> I know this post is quite dated, but I'm sure people like myself would stumble onto this as they search for a solution like yours. <S> I started searching for some sort of shelving using the Command Strip technology. <S> I haven't found anything sold as a kit, but I obviously found your question. <S> A number of years <S> ago I used the Command picture hanging strips to mount my PC speakers inside my armoire desk. <S> The speakers were 14.4 inches tall and weighed about 3.6lbs each. <S> I used two Command strips on each speaker (One towards the top and the other towards the bottom). <S> In the 6 years I had them setup this way, they never came loose at all. <S> Considering the vibration alone at higher volume levels, that was very impressive. <S> Also, it is advisable to add more mounting brackets to the shelf to distribute the weight. <S> Last, although I used the ones for hanging pictures I strongly advise not using them for holding up shelving. <S> The regular strips would be the best choice. <S> And as someone else already suggested, get the strongest strips (holds the most weight) that Command makes. <S> I know that Command has improved and added to their Command product line since 2012. <S> It'd be nice if you or others could follow up by letting people know if you tried your idea and if it worked well for you. :) <A> I have a wooden wall shelf hanging up on my wall with Command™ strips. <S> If you are planning to put heavy things on the shelf then it will not work. <S> I have a plant on mine and it's been holding for at least 3 months.
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Unfortunately there is no way to anchor something to the wall without proper anchors. My point is that if anyone decides to try using Command strips to hold up shelving, you'll need to place at least a few strips at each mounting point. Make sure you get the Command™ strips that can hold the most weight possible, just in case.
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Trying to wire a 240v line-voltage thermostat I am trying to replace my old 240v line-voltage thermostat with a modern version. The problem is that after wiring the new version in like the old it doesn't work. I have (2) 12-2 wires coming out of the box and they are both hot. Any advice? <Q> Simple "line voltage" T stat wiring. <S> One wire is L1 (120V potential) from source, one wire is L2(120v potential)source connected to heating strips, then the switch, then L1 source. <S> When the switch closes the 240V circuit is completed. <S> If you have three wires coming from the switch then you need a neutral that you probably don't have. <A> Makes perfect sense, 12/2 cable is a fine choice for a 240V heater. <S> They don't need neutral, so <S> white is re-tasked to be another hot, and should be wrapped with tape to mark it. <S> I cannot understand what you mean <S> by two 12/2 wires . <S> A 12/2 <S> Cable contains two Wires (other than ground), colored black and white. <S> You probably do have two cables. <S> One goes back to the service panel and is the supply cable, both its wires <S> will be Hot compared to ground. <S> That is the "line" side. <S> In the other cable, both wires should have low or no voltage until the thermostat is wired and turned on. <S> That is the "load" side. <S> Hook up the line side, complete, to the line terminals as marked on the thermostat. <S> Pay no attention to the physical position of the terminals on the old thermostat, they are all different. <S> Once the line side is hooked up, test if it practical. <S> Then hook up the load side. <S> Do them separately like this to keep things simple and understandable. <A> Both lines could "look" hot if you are measuring to ground. <S> But one could be coming from the low-resistance heater, and your high-impedance voltmeter can't even tell it's there.
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If you have 240V when checking both wires together, and only two wires on switch, there is something wrong with the new fancy switch.
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What happens if I shave a little sliver off electrical wire with a utility knife? I needed to replace an electrical wire with a longer one so I could move an electrical outlet. When I went to cut away the outer rubber cover of one of the wires with a utility knife (yes, dumb, I know), I accidentally shaved off a wee little sliver of copper from the wire. Everything works fine, but I am wondering if it's something serious that could affect the transfer of electricity or cause other problems. It has since been installed, so I don't remember if it was the hot, neutral, or ground at this point. Should I redo it with a different wire? I can't cut off any more of the wire as I didn't allow myself that much slack. <Q> If you are talking about something the size of a splinter <S> then you have no problem. <S> I doubt if you shaved enough off to change the ampacity of the wire. <S> The main reason not to use a knife (other than safety) is scoring the electrical wire and making it easier to break off. <S> Wire strippers normally go enough of the insulation to make it weak enough to come off with little effort. <A> However, if the wire had a deeper nick or multiple cuts you would want to cut off the damage and re-strip the wire. <S> The reason being is that damage to the wire increases resistance. <S> Increased resistance creates heat, and heat eventually can cause fire. <S> There are safety margins built into the electrical codes, but considering the relatively small diameter of the wire, it doesn't take much damage to effect a couple percent of the diameter, and this can be a problem. <S> If you have any doubts, cut off the damaged part and strip it with a proper wire stripper. <S> If slack is a problem you can use a wirenut and a spare piece of wire to extend the length enough for the outlet. <A> I know of 3 reasons to be concerned about nicks when stripping a conductor: <S> It increases heat at this point. <S> Heat causes parts to expand & contract, loosening connections over time, producing yet more heat. <S> It's a weak spot, a " stress riser ". <S> Of course, solid conductors are usually only used in installations that don't move, and stranded conductors don't fatigue as easily. <S> A friend (at a party, no less!) told me that, since high voltage moves along the surface of a wire, a sudden decrease in thickness could be a problem. <S> I don't have anything hard to back this up, so I don't know if it would apply in this situation. <S> If the nick is very small, you're probably fine. <S> If there's nothing making the wires flex, they probably won't break. <S> If you don't run at maximum amperage at maximum allowed temperature, then it may not overheat. <S> Etc. <S> As indicated in other answers, you don't have to cut all the way through the insulation to remove it. <S> If you get close, it will tear easily. <S> Once you build up tension in the insulation, you can touch it with a sharp edge and it will part easily.
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If the wire flexes a lot, it is more likely to break at this point, which is potentially a dangerous condition (e.g. if the hot wire breaks, shifts, and makes contact with the body of an ungrounded appliance.) Hot enough and it will start a fire. I agree with lqlarry in that if it's just a small splinter/nick then there is likely not much risk.
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What could cause my toilet to 'Gurgle'? The last few days the toilets in the house (2 toilets) are making a gurgling noise. When I go and look, I can see the water is standing very low. When I then flush the toilet, the water either keeps rising (not going down the pipes) or flushes normally. And then there's about a 50/50 chance of it to start gurgle again. We've tried unclogging it with a plunger, but it does not help. So I'm suspecting it has something to do with the septic tank. What should I try to fix this? EDIT: I should also note that one toilet is on a floor higher then the other. <Q> I've been a victim of this before. <S> This is bad news. <S> In my (rare) case, the roof of my apartment building drained to the middle of the building and down the sewer pipes. <S> During phenomenal downpours (twice in five years), the flow of water coming down that pipe was faster than the flow of water leaving the building. <S> The water backed up to the lowest point where it had an exit which was my primary bathroom. <S> It did so with such intensity that water was violently sloshing out of the toilet bowl, the stopper on the sink was forcefully ejected, and the bathtub was backing up at the same time. <S> The only good news in all this mess is that it was fresh water. <S> Clearly, this is not quite your case. <S> However, it is an indication of the same similar fact: you have a flow going in the wrong direction in your sewer line. <S> Before the astonishingly violent discharge and water flowing everywhere, the toilet would gurgle. <S> Since it's a septic tank for you, <S> you need that serviced now . <S> The reason the flushed water level is lower is probably that the siphon link between the bowl and the sewer line isn't being broken. <A> It sounds like you have a blockage in your vent. <S> Check if any birds have been nesting on your roof. <S> You could also try snaking out the vent, but this really depends on where exactly the blockage is. <A> The water is sucked (or more physically correct, pushed by air pressure) down the toilet. <S> When you flush, you add volume into the sewer, which is sometimes enough to even out the pressure difference, sometimes not. <S> Normally there is a release valve/pipe of some kind somewhere, where the pressure can even out between the sewer system and the outside air. <S> This doesn't work properly in your sewer, making it a sealed system where pressure/vacuum isn't released. <A> I had the same problem but it turns out the top to my stack had a hole allowing rain and debris to fall down into it <S> but that wasn't the issue. <S> My two younger children decided it was a good idea to throw gravel down it, causing a blockage which I had to remove (messing up a pair of gloves in the process) and as soon as it was cleared it began to flow properly. <A> the gurgling noise is an indicator that your main line is plugged and water is coming back up into your lowest drain ie, shower or toilet which ever is the lowest drain. <S> in my experience of being an owner of a septic company the clear answer is a plugged inlet baffle in your septic tank which can be cleared from your inlet baffle hatch which is located at the beginning of the tank. <S> open up the hatch and shove a stick down the baffle to clear the plug. <S> if that doesn't work shove a garden hose up your mainline and turn on the water. <S> look out because your about to have all the water that has been backed up coming straight for you <A> Has your septic tank been pumped at regular intervals? <S> If not get it pumped and then see if problem has disappeared. <S> Is this problem recent say over/after a very cold spell of weather? <S> Cold can cause the roof vent stack wet vapors to freeze and the ice will plug or severely restrict the airflow the vent needs to prevent gurgling.
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The gurgling noise and the low water level in the toilets is because the pressure in the sewer line is lower than outside.
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How do I fix a hole in drywall? There is a hole in my drywall from a doorknob repeatedly hitting it, is there a straightforward way to fix it? <Q> Small holes - As @Oscilatingcretin says just some spackle, sand, and paint you are done. <S> Medium holes - A fist size hole or bigger is harder. <S> Cleanup the hole area. <S> Then take one or more more pieces of strapping and attach to existing wall to serve as foundation for the replacement piece of drywall. <S> Cut replacement piece of drywall and fit to opening, attach to strapping installed previously. <S> Then just fill in the gaps and screws with mud, sand, and paint. <S> Here's a diagram to help to visualize, let's say the hole is <S> the wall is around 6" by 6": <S> Larger holes - Most likely you will have to find the nearest stud to the left and right and make the existing hole bigger so that the new piece of drywall can be attached directly to the stud. <S> For the top and bottom, you will have to cut some strapping or framing so the the replacement piece can be secured to the top and bottom as well, otherwise the seem will crack. <S> Once the framing is in place, cut the replacement piece and secure to studs and new framing. <S> Tape, mud and sand around the edges of your new piece. <S> Paint. <S> If done well and the mud is feathered out, one will not notice the replacement piece of drywall. <S> Here's a diagram to help to visualize, lets say the hole is 12" by 12": For holes larger than that, probably best to replace the entire wall. <A> While it's not as attractive as fixing the wall, you can make the hole go away ( <S> if it's small) and prevent new ones with a wall protector like this one from Canadian Tire (doubtless equivalents exist where you live.) <S> It's just a white circle of plastic, 3" across. <S> The back is sticky; you stick it to the wall <S> and you're done. <S> $2.99. <S> I did this for an instant fix in two places <S> and I'll get around to the actual repair thing later. <A> spackle if it's a small hole. <S> a drywall repair kit if it's a big hole. <S> after you fix it, a wall-mounted door stopper will keep it from happening again <A> In addition to the other answers, you can also get a self-adhesive aluminum patch which you stick on. <S> It's more expensive than any other method, but maybe less work, depending on the situation and your skill level. <S> http://reviews.homedepot.com/1999/100403177/8-in-x-8-in-drywall-repair-self-adhesive-wall-patch-reviews/reviews.htm
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Depending on the size of the hole, there are different methods to fix. It is thin enough that you just stick and then mud.
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How can I replace pull switch lights with wireless remote receivers / switches? does anyone have experience with the Lightning Switch or Illumra or recommend any other remote switches for replacing the pull switch light fixtures without having to rewire the house. The tech looks pretty cool, but I want to get a few opinions if anyone here has used them. <Q> I used something similar to replace a pull chain in an attic. <S> Now I can turn on the light at the door, and not have to stumble through the dark to the middle of the attic to find the pull cord. <S> It will set you back about $30. <S> The installation requires no wiring and takes about 5 minutes. <A> I've never dealt with these companies but it looks simple enough. <S> I'm around X10 and Z-wave. <S> On the Lightning Switch it looks like you will need the large or small transmitter and the 120V wire in receiver. <S> Here . <S> The only problem with these is that you will not be able to gang the transmitter with another switch or receptacle. <S> The Illumra looks like it is about the same, but if you want to gang it with another or a standard switch or receptacle. <S> Here . <S> Leviton has a wireless switch similar to this that I have seen. <S> The factory rep told me it was like the self winding watches, that when you pushed the switch it would you the motion to energize itself, like shaking the watch. <S> Leviton is made to go with their occupancy sensor so not really a choice for you. <A> I know this post is ancient, but I just wanted to point out for future readers that <S> the Illumra and the Leviton wireless light switches are both made by the same manufacturer, and as such, should be the same product. <S> Either company should be able to provide a good solution to a pull switch light. <S> I've been researching this a bit and also found the same light switch in a kit with a controller on Amazon here , which is a good option for homeowners, I think.
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Something like the Carlon HW2162 screw-in wireless remote switch can do the job.
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Do I really have to fasten interior-wall electrical wire to a stud to keep it from moving? I am fresh out of cable staples and would rather not go all the way to Lowe's just to get a box. What are the implications of not fastening loose electrical wires to a stud? It's not like there's going to be that much vibration in my house. Edit: This is what I am talking about. <Q> If you continue reading NEC 334.30 you'll come to subsection (B)... <S> 334.30 Securing and Supporting Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties, straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed so as not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m (4 1⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) <S> of every outlet box. <S> junction box, cabinet, or fitting. <S> Flat cables shall not be stapled on edge. <S> Sections of cable protected from physical damage by raceway shall not be required to be secured within the raceway. <S> (A) <S> Horizontal Runs Through Holes and Notches. <S> In other than vertical runs, cables installed in accordance with 300.4 <S> shall be considered to be supported and secured where such support does not exceed <S> 1.4-m (4 1⁄2-ft) intervals and the nonmetallic-sheathed cable is securely fastened in place by an approved means within 300 mm (12 in.) <S> of each box, cabinet, conduit body, or other nonmetallicsheathed cable termination. <S> FPN: <S> Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. <S> (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling <S> So if the structure is accessible, you must secure the cable. <S> If you are fishing cable, you do not have to secure the cable. <S> No trained mice with staplers required. <A> Yes. <S> It will not pass code without them. <S> NEC 334.30 and 314.17 Type NM (nonmetallic) cable shall be secured at intervals not exceeding 4.5 feet and within 12 inches of each box. <S> When a single gang box 2-1/4” <S> x 4” or smaller is used without a cable clamp, the cable shall be secured within 8” measured along the sheath. <A> The biggest problem could be if the cable moves away from the stud and you drill into the wall and nick the cable... <S> Depending on where you are based there could be building code/regulation violations involved as well. <A> Better safe than sorry. <S> Unforeseen actions may occur within a wall cavity at later dates, and though it is highly unlikely that any action would occur to move or damage the cable, storm activity or remodeling may do such. <S> Staples are cheap.
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Unless is it impossible to reach, secure the cable as per NEC requirements. See 314.17(C) for support where nonmetallic boxes are used (B) Unsupported Cables. Tidy work is quality work.
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What does "1 Gang", "2 Gang", and so forth mean when talking about electrical boxes? What does a "1 Gang" mean when talking about electrical boxes? Example: CARLON 1-Gang Metal Adjustable Electrical Box (Lowes.com) <Q> It refers to the width of the box. <S> The idea is that you can "gang" up electrical components in the box. <S> One gang Two gang <S> Three gang <S> X gang <S> Common sizes <A> The n-Gang terminology is also used in the UK, but with somewhat different meaning. <S> For sockets it is similar, except UK plugs are bigger and not normally stacked two on top of each other. <S> So a 2-Gang is wider than a 1-gang and has 2 sockets. <S> The dimensions are of course different from the US ones. <S> Blank face plates are similar. <S> A 2-Gang plate is the same size as a 2-Gang socket. <S> For switches it refers to the number of switches . <S> 1-Gang, 2-Gang and 3-Gang switches may be the same size, but have 1, 2 or 3 switch buttons. <A> In the USA, "gang" generally refers to the physical size of the circuit box. <S> With switches and receptacles generally conforming to a standard width, the number of "gangs" indicates how many of these standard switches or receptacles the box can accommodate. <S> This question is more thoroughly answered by Steve Jackson above. <S> As Tor Klingberg hints at above, however, on the international stage "gang" tends to refer to the number of circuits within a single box, irrespective of the size of the box. <S> Here are two UK-based websites (with pictures) that explain what a "gang" is: https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/what-is-a-gang-switch.htm <S> ‘Gang’ describes the number of switches on the plate. <S> http://www.lightwiring.co.uk/lighting-circuit-components/light-switches/gangs-and-their-ways/ <S> If your light switch has one ‘switch button’ on it then <S> it’s a single (or 1) gang switch. <S> If it has two ‘switch buttons’ on it then it’s a double (or 2) gang switch. <S> etc. <S> etc. <S> Here is a random Filipino website which has what we would call a "3-rocker, single-gang" switch in the USA. <S> But in the link it's called a "3-gang" switch: https://www.cherryhome.com.ph/products/9b0a5ce68b768e35bdecb7c3a57d47ad
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A 1-gang box is wide enough for a switch or duplex receptacle.
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How to determine the screw size (No.)? I have multiple "Damaged Screw Remover" bits. I have another instance of the screw in my hand. The bits are designed for specific screw sizes (No. 4 to 7/No. 8 to 10). How do I determine the "No." size for the screw? <Q> If you have an identical screw, you can probably take it to Home Depot or Lowes and use the thread gauge mounted in the hardware section. <S> (The HD in my area has one, but I'm not sure if all of them do.) <S> This website also has several printable size gauges for screws, bolts, washers, and nuts. <S> Otherwise, you can buy one . <S> They're usually labelled as "Screw ID Gauge" or "Thread Gauge." <S> Home Depot has them in the hardware aisle for $2 or $3. <A> There are thread gauges you can use to determine the diameter and threads per inch. <S> For instance the "10" in 10-32 is the diameter, the "32" means it has 32 threads in a length of 1''. <S> The larger the diameter number, the thicker the bolt. <S> When using the easy out extractors, I use the largest one that is still smaller than the diameter of the bolt. <A> Here is a chart of screw sizes <S> http://www.engineersedge.com/screw_threads_chart.htm <S> Measure the screw and compare it to the chart.
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If the threaded bolt is stuck in something you can use the gauge to compare the size and that would give a close guess.
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What size breaker and wire do I need for a 220 volt circuit to an electric fireplace and an electric heater? I want to run a 220 volt circuit from panel to an electric fireplace (12 amps) and an electric heater (15 amps). What size breaker should I use and what size wire? <Q> 10 gauge wire is the largest I like to use in home use. <S> Depending on who you talk to and what code book you are looking at, the amount of current a 10 gauge wire can handle changes. <S> I tend to think it can safely handle about a 30 amp breaker ( <S> and I think most code books fall in line with this). <S> You can add up the amps (12+15=27 amps) to get the total amps possible. <S> This would mean that a 30 amp breaker with 10 gauge wire should work fine. <S> However, check your currents to make sure that is the max that will be pulled. <S> Many items have a large start up current that can cause a breaker to trip if you aren't careful. <S> For things that pull this much current by themselves, it is generally better to split them into 2 different breakers. <S> Technically you can use #14 on the 15 amp breaker, but if it were me I would go ahead and run #12 in case you some day want to swap out your fireplace with something that pulls more power. <A> add them together for at least 27 amps (for a 30 amps circuit) <S> split the circuit in a 15 for the 12 amps fireplace and a 20 for the 15 amps heater (to avoid the breaker tripping on the startup spike) <A> People thinking like this is exactly what keep us electricians in business. <S> Run a separate circuit too each appliance using #12 on a 20 amp circuit breaker. <S> If you are not qualified to do electrical work please use a licensed electrician in your area <S> so you do not cause a hazard and risk of fire. <S> You don't just add up the amperage or wattage <S> , that's not the way calculations are done. <S> Another misgiving we see from time to time is if it trips the breaker put a larger size breaker on it. <S> , that is asking for a fire if you over breaker a wire with a larger size than the wire gauge is rated for.
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So for you I would go with a 15 amp and a 20 amp.
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How to widen a chain link I'm trying raise a swing. A chain is attached to both sides of the swing seat and the topmost links are wider than the others to allow a carabiner to be used to attach the swing to the pole overhead. How could I go about widening one of the lower links so I could raise the swing? I tried sticking needle-nose pliers through the links and pulling the handles apart, but there wasn't enough leverage to bend them. <Q> Instead of trying to stretch the link, could you use an anchor shackle? <S> The one in the image above is rated for 2000lbs. <A> I'm going to assume the links have a split half-way up one side. <S> For more leverage prying a link open, take 2 large wrenches (pipe-wrenches could work) and grab either end of a link. <S> Push in opposite directions, across the split in the link. <S> Reverse the same procedure to close the link again. <S> It sounds like you could maybe just change which links the carabiner <S> goes through to shorten the chain. <S> Alternatively, what is the bottom attachment like? <S> Can you disconnect the seat and re-connect it higher? <S> You could also consider adding a link/carabiner that jumps several existing links: connect the link below the existing carabiner to a link 5-6 further down. <S> Swings can involve quite a bit of force, and thus chains need to be fairly strong. <S> If you can't shorten the chain moving the ends, you might have to find someone with proper chain modification tools. <S> EDIT to try to improve my instructions <S> (I am not an artist.) <S> Position each wrench <S> so it bites around the red or green circled area. <S> The wrench handles will be perpendicular to the chain. <S> It doesn't matter if the wrench is slightly loose when force is not being applied <S> (this might be familiar if you've used a pipe wrench before), nor does it matter if you are biting partially on the adjacent link. <S> When you move the wrench handles in opposite directions (again, perpendicular to the chain), the force will work between the wrenches. <S> NOTE: <S> the links in this image (and in many heavy-duty chains) are welded or fused. <S> These links cannot be opened, they can only be cut. <A> This thread got me a ways down the road, and I figured out a solution that worked for me. <S> Take two wrenches, as thin in the "mouth" as possible (but still sturdy and with long handles). <S> They have to both fit nose-to-nose inside the chain link. <S> Ideally, one of them will have a rounded nose (see image). <S> Grip both sides of the chain link firmly, and then "roll" the pliers' handles towards each other. <S> There's enough leverage that it doesn't take a whole lot of strength.
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In many cases you can simply grab the links above and below the one you desire to open; although in practice that might open the adjacent links slightly.
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Do Old Houses Have a Pre-determined Lifespan? Taking into consideration the building supplies that were available in that time period for that particular geographic area (say, a major metropolitan city in the mid-western United States), do homes built in the late 1800s have definite points in time that they reach where they are essentially beyond repair without a complete teardown? I'm not really talking about things that can be replaced like legacy iron piping with contemporary copper...I'm talking about the lifespan of the actual bricks and wood that go into the foundation/frame of the house itself deteriorating to the point that the house becomes structurally unsafe? Is this a real problem? Or were the supplies used even in the late 1800s treated well to such a degree that, given typical housing standards (at that time) if it were properly built, should last for hundreds of years? <Q> In general most of them last a long time, and when they do fail, they simply get replaced. <S> Of course, it can be a problem if the item that is failing cannot easily be replaced. <S> Off the top of my head <S> I think the only issue could be the foundation. <S> Many homes built that long ago did not really have a foundation or may have compromised foundation by now. <S> That is something that is very expensive to fix. <S> Though not impossible, the fix usually involves lifting the house and rebuilding the foundation and then dropping the house back on it. <A> It boils down to maintenance. <S> There are tons of houses in northeast that 300+ old. <S> Some brick and some wooden. <S> However, specific building materials do have known time in service before they would require repair. <S> For example bricks might need to e repointed every 50 years or so <A> The lifespan of a structure has little to do with age in general.
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I don't think it is much of an issue with individual materials. So if the house was properly kept then I don't think it has a pre determined lifespan. It's mostly a combination of: materials construction quality maintenance/upkeep climate
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What are the advantages of various bathtub materials? We're going to be putting in a new tub, and I'm not sure what to get. Cast iron? Enameled steel? Acrylic? My concern with the cast iron (other than lugging it up the stairs) is the rust problem. How well does acrylic hold up? <Q> Cast iron tubs are very heavy and expensive. <S> Rust is not a problem with cast iron tubs as long as the enamel top layer is intact (if you get a chip in it, you can get enamel repair kits). <S> My wife did not like the old cast iron tub in our bathroom because it was cold when standing in it during a shower and made bath water get cold fast. <S> Evidently she was not taking baths in the “cast iron method” which is to put super-hot water into the bathtub and allow the heat to transfer into the tub, this will cool the water down but keep it at a reasonable temperature longer (in theory at least, YMMV). <S> Enameled steel <S> it basically a cheaper version of the cast iron <S> , it is a lighter because the metal is much thinner. <S> I doubt the “hot bath trick” described above for cast iron tubs will work in a steel tub. <S> Like cast iron tubs, you should not have to worry about a steel tub rusting or cracking. <S> Acrylic (plastic) <S> tubs come in a different quality levels. <S> Some are really cheap, thin plastic that have the potential to crack over time (particularly if they are poorly supported/improperly installed). <S> However some acrylic tubs use thicker stronger plastic (often with fiber glass embedded for tensile strength) that are very sturdy. <S> I recently had to make this decision; we replaced our cast iron tub with plastic Kohler model. <S> I knew I did not want to lug a cast iron tub up to the 2nd story. <S> I thought about a steel tub <S> but they are still 120-150 pounds. <S> I was worried about getting a cheap plastic one that would break so <S> I settled on a $700 plastic Kohler tub that is pretty thick. <A> Fiberglass Pros: <S> Cheap <S> Light <S> Easy to install Many shapes and colors <S> Cons: <S> Least durable Easily scratched Prone to fading. <S> Acrylic Pros: <S> Cheap <S> High gloss finish that lasts Good insulator, keeps water warm Easy to clean Durable <S> Scratches can be repaired Many shapes and colors <S> Cons: <S> Susceptible to scrathes Porcelain on Steel <S> Pros: <S> Resistant to acid, corrosion, and abrasions Easy to clean Resists fading Cons: <S> Can be damaged by impact Surface may chip and rust <S> Can be noisy <S> Heavy Cast Iron Pros: <S> Long lasting Resists damage <S> Cons: <S> Heavy Expensive Limited shapes <S> Susceptable to rust <S> Further Reading <S> Bathtub Materials Comparison <S> Buying Guide: <S> Bathtub Bathtubs Buying Guide <A> It's withstood the test of time for centuries. <S> Enameled steel has a cheap drumming sound to it. <S> Americast (an American Standard acrylic product) is far better than those cheap fiberglass tubs, but also chips. <S> Fiberglass flexes and, unless you've bought the entire wall kit (which is cheezy), will continue to give you fits where the tub perimeter meets the tile. <S> There's always trade offs. <S> If it's your forever house, I'd do the cast iron. <S> Of the lot, it has the most durable finish and, unless you're prone to drop hammers in it, will probably outlast you. <S> Usually a cast iron tub fails - not because of the material - but due to improper installation, using harsh cleaning products on the surfaces, or damage from impact. <S> All other materials will meet the same fate.
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Cast iron is the most desirable for a bath tub.
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Should I leave the drain open on my compressor for storage? I just got a new air compressor for occasional finish nailing and tire inflation. I understand that I need to open the bottom drain to let out any condensation (i.e., this question ) after each use. Should I also store the compressor with this valve open? Is it a bad idea to do so? If it makes a difference: I only plan to use it once or twice a month and live in a very dry climate. <Q> Leave the valve closed during storage to prevent moisture, dust, and insects from entering the tank (as @Scivitri wisely mentions in his comment). <S> Even though any additional moisture could be drained form the tank later <S> , it's more difficult to get the dust and insects out. <S> And they're what's likely to clog up any attachments. <S> They'd also potentially clog the drain valve itself and essentially cause a slow leak until they were removed. <A> Directly from owner's manual (Central Pneumatic 6 gallon model 67696) Drain tank of moisture after each day’s use. <S> If unit will not be used for a while, it is best to leave drain valve open until such time as it is to be used. <S> This will allow moisture to completely drain out and help prevent corrosion on the inside of tank. <A> Should be covered in the owner's manual if you can find it. <S> The manual for mine says to leave the valve open in storage. <S> Presumably to let the internal/external environment stay equalized to minimize condensation. <A> I did scuba diving for years. <S> This sounds like good advice for any pressurized vessel as moisture is the #1 cause of corrosion/damage. <A> I have always drained my compressors perhaps three times a year , and use it quite often. <S> Depending on the air temp outside, and if it goes down under the freezing temp, I leave the valve open, just in case there is condensation in the tank, but most of the time there is none that comes out after use. <S> Does not make sense to me to leave the valve open at all. <S> Keep the contaminants out of the unit. <S> Chances are that it will do more harm to the inside that prevent anything else.
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The general rule was to always leave a minimum amount of air pressure in the vessel, when not being used, so that moisture, or anything else, could not get into the tank.
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How can I fix a bathtub that was not set properly? I think the floor was not prepped correctly. The tub creaks a lot and there is a great deal of vertical play when standing and moving around. The tub does appear to be level, so I don't think that's the problem. It doesn't seem to be such an issue when it's full of water and I'm sitting down- I suppose the weight is more evenly distributed. |w| o | |a| | ->|l| tub | |l|_____| |_______| I was thinking of: Cutting a hole in the in the wall (where the little arrow is) Pouring some self-leveling cement into the frame underneath the tub It's a fiberglass tub and there is not a big gap between the bottom of the tub and the floor, so I don't really know if much cement will flow underneath the way I want. Would a different product work better for this? Maybe expanding foam? or something else? I can't remove the tub because there is tile lapped over it in a way I can't remove without damaging everything. <Q> If you look at the underside of the tub (through your proposed hole) you should be able to tell if it was meant to sit on the subfloor or not. <S> Some kind of wooden frame will be partly embedded into the fiberglass to help support it. <S> If there are "skids" that should touch the subfloor but do not you can use shims to support them. <S> I had a shower enclosure that was not well supported underneath. <S> It eventually cracked and leaked on the ceiling below. <S> When I removed it, it was obvious that the enclosure was sitting on the floor in the front and hanging from the wall in the back. <S> The reinforcements on the bottom of the enclosure were not touching the floor. <S> I don't know if they were meant to or not. <A> Reading his issue, it sounds as though there wasn't a mortar bed laid down when the tub was installed so now <S> when he stands in the shower he is afraid it will crack due to lack of support. <S> I agree that a leveler would probably not be effective, and he should use a regular type of mortar mix, like quikcrete. <A> I've heard of people using expanding foam from underneath without any problems. <A> WHAT I ENDED UP DOING: <S> For completeness: Both the floor and the tub are level. <S> The tub has a honeycomb structure underneath that is supposed to be supported by quickset. <S> There is a little "foot" at each of the 4 corners which lift the honeycomb about 1.5in off of the floor. <S> So, to me, this looks like an installation problem. <S> However, I can't just have the plumber come back and re-do the work, since the tile is already installed over the top of the tub and this tile cannot be easily replaced (the dye lots are inconsistent and new tile won't match). <S> What I ended up doing was cutting a hole in the drywall just above the plate, about 4 inches high and 5 feet wide. <S> Then, I used 2 kinds of yellow expanding foam: one for filling "large spaces" which expanded a lot. <S> I sprayed this first as far back as I could get the nozzle under the tub until I had emptied 2 cans (one can got stuck and is forever entombed). <S> I sprayed a third and fourth can for "small spaces" which also had a faster cure time and smaller expansion. <S> This went sort of in front of the other foam under the tub up to the inside of the wall. <S> After curing, I put the drywall back, taped, painted. <S> Looks fine. <S> As for the tub: The squeak is totally gone. <S> The shifting is gone. <S> The floor of the tub is quiet and feels solid. <S> I recommend this solution for anyone with this problem. <A> (Dry mortar is one thing, it's mostly sand, but SLC is a different thing entirely.) <S> You're right that it needs to be supported somehow, though. <S> Many plumbers who are not familiar with installing fiberglass (because they started with cast iron and have always used it) don't install fiberglass tubs and shower pans right. <S> And sadly, many cheaper installers just don't care. <A> I had a squeaky tub, discovered it after buying the house. <S> Managed to peek under the tub from the crawlspace with a mirror and flashlight, and found the tub had flimsy metal legs and no mortar at all. <S> I made a small 'screw-jacks' out of angle iron and a 6" long ⅜" carriage bolt and nut. <S> I bolted the angle iron to a joist near the squeaky place, drilled a hole in the subfloor above it, and tightened up the screw until the bolt head passed through the subfloor and pressed firmly against the underside of the tub. <S> I had glued some felt over the head so as to not damage the vinyl tub with the bolt head. <S> I added two such jacks under the tub. <S> Took about an hour. <S> That fixed the squeaks for me. <S> If that hadn't worked, I probably would have drilled several ¼" holes in the subfloor under the tub and squirted expanding foam up under the tub. <A> Aaaand since nobody else seems to have mentioned it - I have always had this "bedding" solution for tubs explained as being supposed to be plaster. <S> Not too strong if you need to remove the tub and break it out, sets up without shrinking, not too runny but easily adjusts to the tub as you set it. <S> The last tub replacement I did was a complete expletive expletive to get in place. <S> I had intended to bed it "properly" by placing a pile of plaster on the floor, but after the misery of getting the new tub in for the test fit, I couldn't face taking it out and putting it back in to do that. <S> I wasn't all that sure I could actually get it back in before the plaster would set, for one thing. <S> I still bedded it in plaster, but did it from the wall behind, pushing it under the tub bowl. <S> Worked perfectly.
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Another option to support the bottom is sand and gravel -- I wouldn't use self-leveling cement.
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How can I install ceramic tile over vinyl tile? I'm trying to install ceramic tile in a friend's bathroom, appox. 45 sq ft.The current floor in the bathroom is vinyl squares over the base cement. There is no subfloor or anything like that. The bathroom is in the basement. I tried pulling off the vinyl but it's leaving a thick yellowish glue behind.What's the best / easiest process to install ceramic floor over the existing floor? <Q> Is the glue residue hard and rough or soft and gummy? <S> If it's hard, a 6" floor scraper should break it loose, maybe with a heat gun or some boiling water to loosen it a bit. <S> If it's soft and gummy, the scraper should get it by itself, or you can try some acetone or mineral spirits to dissolve it <S> (make sure you ventilate the area well, and take frequent breaks). <S> Either way, tiling directly over a vinyl floor is not going to be ideal. <S> The thinset will not key well to the smooth vinyl (and trying to rough it up <S> will basically just get you to the point where you might as well scrape it all off anyway). <S> Vinyl floor should NOT be considered a "floating underlayment", either, as a few posts I've seen have indicated. <S> It's too thin, and actually MORE likely to result in cracking as tiles break loose and try to shift. <S> You really need to get that stuff off. <S> It will not be an easy job, and if he's not paying you for the time he should be. <A> Scraping off the vinyl would be best. <S> You could use a membrane like Schluter Ditra or a cement board-type product, then install the ceramic tiles over that. <A> Just leave the vinyl in place and lay floating/interlocking porcelain tiles over it. <S> Have done two older bathrooms that had old sheet vinyl with them with great results. <S> They are expensive but save huge hassles and time with the underlayment so the cost is a wash. <S> Check them out here:
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You might also want to call up a flooring shop and see if you can rent a floor scraper-- that can make quick work of removing the vinyl, which is definitely the better way to go. Another possibility, if you are OK with raising the floor and fixtures (including raising the toilet flange), would be to mechanically fasten down a tile underlayment over top of the vinyl.
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Why energy saving bulb flashes when the switch is off? I have a energy saving spiral light bulb in my kitchen. In exactly every 27 seconds, the first segment of the bulb faintly flashes when the switch is off. And not once, repeatedly every 27 seconds. This weird situation occurs for more than half and a year. What can be causing these flashes? How can I prevent it if it spends energy or has safety risks? PS: A new spiral bulb does the same thing. And the bulb doesn't flash when I remove from socket. <Q> For this to happen there must be some voltage to the light socket. <S> It may not be noticeable with a standard incandescent bulb because it apparently is not the full voltage and current. <S> If you are comfortable in what you are doing, you could measure the voltage across the two wires and ground to see what you get. <S> Incorrect wiring could be the problem, such as an improper shared neutral leg, or the neutral being switch instead of the hot leg. <S> This can be found using a voltmeter and referencing to a known ground. <S> If your not sure, leave it to an electrician. <S> Wiring is not a hobby, and can be lethal! <A> A cause of this could be an electronic/magenetic dimmer on the light versus a standard single pole single throw (SPST) switch. <S> The electronic/magentic dimmers leak a very small amount of current. <S> With incadescent lights, there is not enough power to cause the filament to glow, however it is enough to cause your flourecent light to intermittently light up. <S> To prevent it you can use a rheostat-based dimmer instead of an electronic dimmer, or just a plain-old switch. <S> As another answer said, it could be a wiring problem too. <S> In addition to checking with a multimeter, I'd also visually inspect all of the switches and the wiring at the fixture. <S> Replacing the switches is a cheap thing to try as well, and because it is a 3-way, there is more room for error. <A> Is your switch lighted/illuminated (something like the picture)? <S> When I put in CFL bulbs in sockets with lighted switches we got the same situation that you described. <S> I believe the cause is the same as what @Steven already described. <S> As for a solution, that might be a good topic for a new question. :) <A> The link at the end explains the flash and gives solutions. <S> Let me grab some excerpt from it: <S> Why does the CFL bulb flash? <S> "Many times this is due to the circuit inside the CFL charging up, even when the bulb is off. <S> This happens many times when the CFL bulb is being controlled by an illuminated wall switch, because the wall switch uses the CFL bulb itself as neutral. <S> When the wall switch is on, the CFL bulb gets full line voltage. <S> When the wall switch is off, the CFL bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the CFL bulb. <S> This tiny current charges up the capacitor in the CFL bulb, until it releases it's energy. <S> This cycle can repeat once every few seconds." <S> How to fix the flash? <S> "put a bleeder resistor inbetween the two contacts of the light bulb. <S> What this resistor does is cause the tiny current to pass through it, when the wall switch (or whatever causes the tiny current) is off, instead of charging the capacitor of the CFL and causing it to flash. " http://www.instructables.com/id/Stop-CFL-lights-from-flashing/ <A> The capacitance between the wires of the cable to the switch is enough to provide the current needed to slowly charge up the CFL internal power supply. <S> The capacitance can be as small as a few hundred picofarad but this is enough. <S> Rewire as two separate cables to the switch to reduce this capacitance. <A> First to explain the reason. <S> The switches with light in the button are circulating small current through the lamp in the off stage. <S> This current must circulate without problems. <S> The conflict, problem is with energy efficiency lamps as LED and CFL and LFL when in their electronic inside doesn't contain X2 EMC suppression capacitor which is creating path for circulation of this small current. <S> My solution (it is tested and applied) is: Just put in parallel to the lamp externally 1 capacitor X2 type 100-220nF with discharging resistor and ballast resistor, that is all. <S> I have some where detailed calculations for values. <S> For more details you feel free to contact with me: <S> aydin_halil@yahoo.com <S> But this is for technical guys not for amateurs, It can be dangerous for amateurs! <S> Good Luck!
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Or for switches without light button the reason can be the parasitic capacitance + leakage resistance of the cable which is producing small parasitic current through the lamp.
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Can a hand drill drill 1/4"-1/2" holes into 1" thick aluminum? I'm making some baseplates in my home for a custom camera system and I'll need to be drilling many holes into plates of aluminum. I'm planning to use 6061 aluminum and need to drill holes anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2". And later will be tapping them. Is a handheld drill capable of drilling these holes into aluminum up to 1" thick? <Q> I would say, "yes, but...". <S> First of all, you'll need the appropriate bit. <S> Tungsten carbide is the go-to for most metal drilling, and such bits are usually also designed to drill efficiently into metal and remove the waste. <S> You can probably also find diamond-tipped bits which will also be good at biting into the metal and removing it. <S> Your average drill bit for hardwoods won't be up to the task; it won't bite, will dull quickly, and will bind easily. <S> Metal drilling usually requires use of an oil or other drilling fluid to cool the bit. <S> This would make drilling by hand a two-person job; one to hold the drill steady, the other to apply the drilling fluid. <S> The last point of concern is not overstressing the drill's motor. <S> This is usually just a matter of not pressing too hard, and letting the drill do the work in its sweet time. <S> But, it also generally means having a drill with the chutzpah to handle the job. <S> As was said in the comments there are plenty of hand drills with enough torque for this kind of work, but your $30 range is probably not in that class. <A> Assuming you mean an electric powered drill, it may have the guts. <S> A 1/4 inch hole is no problem, but a 1/2 inch hole will take more work. <S> Clear the chips from the hole as you drill. <S> I think the biggest issue with a hand held drill is if you will keep the drill neatly vertical. <S> This will impact the quality of the holes you drill, if you do not. <S> A problem with a hand drill for metal is getting the hole in exactly the right place. <S> A good solution is to use a center punch. <S> This puts a small dimple, centered at the location you want to drill. <S> The drill bit will now get started more easily without skating around the surface. <S> Keep your bits sharp. <S> This will be important. <S> A lubricant is also important, both for drilling and for the thread tapping process. <S> For aluminum, you can use WD40 or 3 in one oil for this purpose, or a kerosene based lubricant that contains some oil. <S> You will be surprised how much better a drill bit cuts with some lubricant, as well as in cutting threads. <S> Make sure that the piece to be drilled is held tightly in place. <S> Clamp it down, or use a vise of some sort. <A> Here's a video showing tips for using a hand drill to cut through 3/16" steel. <S> With thick aluminum, I usually start with an 1/8" pilot hole, take that to 1/4", then 3/8", then 1/2". <S> With an inch to go through, you may also need to use a 5/16" bit to ensure a nice round hole at the end. <S> As you get to the bigger bit sizes, you'll need to slow your drill down. <S> This looks like a decent little speed table. <S> If I understand your project correctly, you'll be wanting these holes to have flat bottoms? <S> That's tough without a milling machine, however, it can be done on aluminum with a mototool (preferably variable speed), a flat topped tool steel cutting head, and plenty of time.
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When you ask a drill to cut too much metal at a time it will bend, wiggle and give you a poorly shaped hole.
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What is the easiest way to stop a door from catching on the floor? When I open and close my bathroom door, it catches on the floor. This makes it hard to open and close it, and also makes a really annoying sound. What is the easiest way to stop the door from touching the floor? <Q> If the condition has developed over time, you can try tightening all of the screws on the hinges. <S> If any of the screws keep turning then you can replace them with longer screws so that they grip the stud behind the frame and pull the door up. <S> If you recently installed carpet or a new floor <S> then you will need to plane the bottom of the door with either a hand planer or by sanding. <A> Take the door out of the frame and shave a few millimeters off the bottom (you might need a second pair of hands to get the door in and out of the frame). <A> Replace the hinges with Rising Butt Hinges , These will lift the door as it is opened. <S> Remember not to mix right-hand hinges with left-hand hinges when using rising butt hinges. <A> The easiest way is to pay someone to do it. <S> Since it's a bathroom door it should be hollow and light weight and come off hinges easily. <S> Pop the hinges and put the door up on a table. <S> Clamp it down (preferably) and then saw the sucker off about a 1/4 inch or more depending on how low it is looking. <A> I salesperson at a hardware store in my neighborhood suggested an easy way to solve the problem, that doesn't require sanding the door. <S> I tried it, and it works perfectly! <S> I took a small piece of plastic-coated electrical wire, and used pliers to shape the piece into a helix. <S> I shoved such a piece up the barrel of each one of the door's hinges. <S> After putting the door back, the pieces of wire inside the hinges made it a bit higher and it stopped catching on the floor. <S> I also made sure there is spare space between the top of the door and the frame when it was closed, so it can still be closed even when it's a bit higher. <S> Definitely easier than sanding!
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Put the door back on hinges and you are done. There is also a planer attachment for the dremels which works pretty well for light jobs, and in some cases you can even do it without removing the door.
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