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How do I fix a slow draining garbage disposal? I put an avocado skin down my garbage disposal, and since then, the sink doesn't drain well. If I run water for 10+ seconds, it fills up the disposal a decent amount, and will drain if I turn on the disposal or turn off the water. I've reached in to the disposal, and found nothing that I could feel obstructing things. Any ideas on where my obstruction is, and how to remove? <Q> Sounds like the chewed up gunk from the disposal has largely blocked the drain pipe. <S> Try a plunger first <S> (block all other connected drains) but that may or may not be effective depending on how far along the clog is. <S> If the simple solution doesn't work, you'll have to open a clean-out (or the U-trap) and use an auger to break it out. <S> You can rent a "snake" from Home Depot that attaches to a power drill. <S> As @Chris Cudmore said, avoid fibrous material. <S> Corn husks are the worst. <S> Important: <S> If this happens again, you may have a plumbing problem! <S> Disposals are often connected to existing plumbing that is not sufficient to handle them. <S> The drain should be 2" pipe with limited slope (or vertical) and must be the direct path to the main sewer with any other connections merging into the pipe from above. <S> Otherwise, you get places where the gunk can stick for a moment and have water move back along the other path giving time for the gunk to stick even more until you basically have concrete blocking your pipe. <S> I'll give you 3 guesses as to how I know this... and the first two don't count. <A> I had similar issues with some items in the disposal. <S> I removed the output and saw that something was blocking the exit tube. <S> It turn out the exit tube itself was rusted and in bad shape. <S> Since my disposal was older I just replaced it and it has been working well since. <S> I never would have thought the exit tube would be deformed from the rust. <S> It was blocked over 50%. <S> Other than the blocked tube the disposal worked well. <S> It just seemed like it clogged a lot. <S> If clearing your disposal doens not seem to solve the issue you might want to check the exit tube and the drain. <A> Plunging may not help since the clog is past the point where the sink and disposal tie together. <S> The pressure the plunger generates is vented into the disposal. <S> This is most effective with water in the sink and the disposal. <S> Since the water won't compress like air does, more force is directed at the clog. <S> If you have a dishwasher make sure the door is shut so you don't vent the plunge pressure into the dishwasher. <S> I have had luck with inserting the disposal plug, shutting the dishwasher door and sucking the sink side with a big shop vac. <S> Cleaning the vac after is no picnic <S> but it's better than climbing under the sink
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If your disposal has a rubber drain plug have someone hold it firmly in place while you plunge.
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Can I alter the 'timing' of my toilet flush? I have a standard, normal flow toilet, with a problem. When the toilet is flushed, it seems to start refilling the bowl with water from the tank too soon, before the waste has had a chance to drain away. The result is that the toilet paper/waste just kind of floats around and doesn't really get sucked away. Only when it's sat for a while, soaked in the water and thus got heavy enough to sink does it reluctantly flush away. Is there anything I can adjust to fix this, or is just a poorly designed toilet/components? <Q> Actually, that's how a toilet is supposed to work. <S> You can simulate a flush simply by dropping a couple gallons of water in right away. <S> The spray paint fill is the natural water level. <S> Flushing occurs by suddenly dumping excess water in the bowl. <S> This raises the water level at the back, an a siphon effect comes into play with pulls the remaining water out of the bowl, giving the typical whirlpool effect. <S> If you're not getting the whirlpool, and a clearing flush, there are two possible scenarios. <S> The tank isn't full, and not enough water is coming down to clear the bowl <S> There is a small blockage in the drain. <S> But timing isn't an issue. <A> Sounds like it's not using enough water in the flush. <S> You just need it to shut off before the water gets high enough that it starts going down the "overflow", at which point it would just try to fill forever. <S> When the flush stops is typically done by the chain attached to the drain flapper. <S> Shorter chains will cause it to dump more water before closing. <S> Just watching it in action once or twice should show you how your particular toilet operates and a bit of trial and error will make it clear which way things need to move. <A> In addition to the tank fill level discussed in Brian White's answer, there is another way to adjust the timing. <S> The common flapper has trapped air inside of it. <S> When it is lifted by the chain, it floats in the tank water until the water gets low enough, and then it drops onto the flapper seat and stops the flow. <S> Different brands of flappers have different fall rates. <S> I was having the same problem <S> and I changed brands and it was solved. <S> There are also adjustable flappers <S> that lets you change the air volume or add an extra float. <S> This changes the timing of the fall and the amount of water in a flush. <S> There are a few specialized flapper designs, so be sure you check the type in your tank. <S> Note that American Standard has a proprietary flapper <S> that has a water filled chamber that hold the flapper open. <S> There is a hole in the chamber that drains and when it is empty, the flapper falls. <S> Finally, there are some new systems that let you have a dual flush - you can choose between high volume and low volume.
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You can adjust how full the tank gets, usually with a small screw where the float attaches to the vertical filling tube.
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How do I add veneer stone to an exterior painted wall? I have an exterior painted wall and am interested in installing a stone veneer. I realize that I may have to install wire mesh to the areas but I'm wondering if there is a material that can be used to apply to the stone to the painted wall without mesh? Or should the paint be removed as much as possible then attach the wire mesh and apply a scratch coat? <Q> You need mesh. <S> While veneer is a fraction of the weight of full stone, it is not light. <S> The mesh forms a framework that the bonding material will surround and be inseparable from it (absent smashing with a hammer). <S> The mesh is firmly attached to the underlying structure with fasteners (type depending on the nature of the siding). <S> In this case, the painting of the surface makes no difference. <S> Getting mortar to adhere directly to an existing concrete, stucco, brick or stone surface is not simple, especially when there is a tendency of the attached material to pull away from that surface. <S> Adding to a horizontal surface (like a concrete floor, steps or walk), there is mostly a compression force (pushing the surfaces together), and bonding makes more sense. <S> On a vertical (or overhead) surface, where the force is tension (pulling away), this makes less sense. <S> I think you need the mesh. <A> A sand blaster is your tool of choice for removing the paint and leaving a good surface for the mortar to stick to. <S> Do note that one purpose of the mesh is to help hold the mortar in place while it sets up. <S> It also helps to prevent future cracks from shifting. <A> i did my fire place <S> it was brick that had been painted , so being an engineer <S> i did a test and took one rock veneer used liquid nails let it set up for a few days then <S> came back took a chair and stood next to it and put my full 240 lbs of body weight on it <S> and it didnt budge <S> i decided i had enough evidence <S> it was safe to procede . <S> i have a fine looking fire place i also grouted the 5/8 gaps between the stones <S> , i think this is an excellent method . <A> If it's any other material you'll need to install a weather resistant barrier, metal lath and a scratch coat before installing manufactured stone (no need to sandblast if this is the case). <S> Here's a website with more stone installation techniques .
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If your substrate is CMU or concrete then you can sandblast it, remove the residue and install stone veneer with a polymer modified mortar or thinset.
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How could I flatten these warped sleepers layed on uneven concrete to an acceptable level? The concrete in my basement is, as most concrete is, very uneven. I was building up my subfloor to match an existing floor, so I got about 200 board feet of PT 4x4 and ripped 1/2" off using a table saw followed by a planer. Then they kinda sat for a month while I trecked across the trans-Canada railway. Anywho, the combined effect of the planing and the sitting was warpage. I put anchors in the concrete and tightened them down real good to flatten them, but some pieces are really far gone, where some of them snugged right up. Here's a photo of how it is right now: It has a lot of high corners because of the warpage, and I sanded a good bit down with my angle grinder and some 36 grit. Every time I move the level though it seems like something else is too high or too low. It's been hours of back and forth and it's starting to seem impossible to make this flat. The floor isn't actually level, it's 2-3 degrees tilted outwards, but flat is what matters to me. I'm starting to think if I put the plywood down that things just might go well, although at some points the plywood seems like it would be resting on the edge of the 4x3's because of the warpage. Is there a reasonable tolerance that I should abide by in making these flat? Is there a better way? Is it ok if not the whole sleeper is in contact with the floor board? (bonus points: my framing down there looks structurally sound enough, right?!) (and because I know somebody will call me out on it, there's no plastic under there but the epoxy coat I have down there is one of the moisture barrier variety, and I also put PT on to just to be safe - I know already! I know!) <Q> Perhaps you're thinking about this in the wrong order. <S> What if you applied the plywood to the almost level sleepers and then leveled a surface over the ply? <S> I think you''re going to have a very difficult time leveling sleepers as you have in that photo. <S> EDIT: <S> Per your comment that you intend to install tile atop ditra.... you have a very forgiving tolerance with the subfloor, then!Glue and screw the ply into the sleepers. <S> Then apply the Ditra. <S> You can level out imperfections in the leveling with thinset below the tile depending on just how bad things are. <A> You could try a plane as a tool for shaving down the high spots. <S> A good quality plane with a sharp blade can remove a lot of wood in a short time. <S> I do wonder though.... <S> if you get them all honed down to a satisfactory "flat" will they stay that way? <S> Seems like they could warp more. <S> I also see a small problem with how you have laid out the wooden members on the floor. <S> It is recommended to have all edges supported. <S> In regular house construction the joists go in first, then the plywood subfloor comes next and then after that bottom plates and studs are installed. <A> A belt sander can take off a lot of material fairly easily. <S> But be careful, for the same reason. <S> As to level, knock down the ridges and check again. <S> Use a long level (at least 4'). <S> If you find some, lift and add/move shims. <S> When it seems solid, nail and glue the shims, then glue and screw the plywood. <A> Of course, you could also dig up the existing concrete and lay all the new plumbing in the ground under a new concrete floor, which is, I believe, the best method if not the easiest or cheapest.
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If there are significant irregularities after shaving the ridges, you can tack down shims in the gap spaces. Instead of a wooden subfloor, you could fill it with self-leveling concrete. When you come to lay the floor there is no support for the floor edge at the wall between these 90 degree pieces. Dry fit the plywood and test for rocking or springing. You have pieces going up to the studded wall at 90 degrees.
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How does Underfloor Heating get the right temperature water via a Thermal Store? I am considering my options for a renovation project which will require substantial changes to my central heating and domestic hot water system. I was considering going a thermal store with a biomass boiler (wood pellet) and solar thermal, to supply: domestic hot water high temperature water for radiators low temperature water for underfloor heating While researching these options I've discovered that underfloor heating needs carefully controlled water temperature. Installation guides for floor coverings make explicit requirements about how the materials are commissioned with respect to the underfloor heating. So I assume that the underfloor heating system, when used in conjunction with a thermal store has some method of modifying the available water, mixing hot with cooler if hot is too hot? If this assumption is correct what part of the system manages this and where does the mixing occur? Update Yes, this is supposedly possible with a thermal store. Quoting from a manufacturers' website: The Thermal Store can be used to capture energy from a variety of heat sources, such as solar, heat pumps, biomass and CHP, and is capable of providing hot water at varying temperatures to suit different heat emitters within a building. For example the Thermal Store can supply an underfloor heating system that may require 40°C, radiators requiring 70°C and hot water at 55°C, all from the same unit. Yes, qualified engineers would be involved in the commissioning of such a system. However, there's an amount DIY in designing the system in the first place and I may take on some of the installation work myself (e.g. laying the pipework for the underfloor heating). I'm seeking understanding in how such a system balances the temperature requirements. <Q> This isn't a DIY project. <S> You need to have someone who has experience engineering these systems give you input. <S> Steam radiator systems are not something that a DIYer should be designing; there are a lot of design aspects that are not intuitive and need an expert's hand. <S> On top of that, the question that you're asking here is one that you need to take up with the manufacturer of the floor heating system that you're considering and the manufacturer of the thermal storage and furnace system. <S> Again, this is not a DIY project -- it's not something where you can head on off to your local hardware store <S> and they'll have all of these products in stock. <S> You need to at least consult with all of the manufacturers of the components that you're considering, or you need to have an experienced firm design the entire system. <A> Thank you all for your input. <S> After a third night of searching, I've found an answer on this website that satisfies my curiosity and it turns out that the answer is quite simple: <S> The hot draw from the thermal store is mixed with the cold return from the underfloor heating as necessary. <S> The temperature of the water entering the UFH zone is regulated by a thermostatic mixing valve. <S> Water returning from the UFH zone is directed back into either the thermal store or the heat pump depending on the function of the heat pump and the position of the return diverter valve. <S> The schematic isn't an exact match for my envisioned scheme (I don't have the space for a ground-source heat pump <S> and I'm not convinced by the efficacy of air-source), but it explains the details I was missing. <A> It is a common issue where the temperature of the transfer medium is inappropriate for the device moving the energy in or out of the building envelope. <S> There are a number of solutions depending on your unique situation. <S> Cold water is commonly used for tempering since it is usually readily available, is compatible with most piping systems, and has decent heat capacity. <S> Air or refrigerant may be viable media in some situations. <S> Where and how the tempering is done will depend on your specific system. <S> It may be direct mixed or use some sort of intermediate transfer device, depending on the compositions of the main transfer and tempering media. <S> In your situation where a range of temperatures are required for various methods of heating the dwelling, it is common to first supply high temperature devices first, then use the cooler return media to supply lower temperature devices. <S> Obviously, further adjustment of temperature may be required between the two types of devices, but since the temperature differences involved are much smaller, the energy required is much smaller, making a very efficient system. <S> The details of such systems are beyond the comprehension or interest of many ordinary people, so information targeting lay people will be frustratingly short of specific useful details. <S> If you want to learn more, focus on materials that target professionals, in particular those specializing in alternative energy systems. <S> Even if you don't fully understand everything, you'll still get a better understanding of what's involved, and will become a well informed consumer. <A> It keeps that water in a continuous loop, optionally with a water reservoir (although that to me seems wasteful - reservoirs (aka tanks) are for "on demand" heat as in for the shower/tub/sink), to minimize the amount of water used overall (it also is cheaper to reheat warm water than to heat cold water). <S> I've never heard of a system which injects cold water to get the right temp - that's self defeating - <S> the systems simply just heat it up enough . <S> If your intention is to supply both radiators and radiant flooring, and they have different core temperature requirements, then you're going to need multiple systems, one for each different temperature needed.
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Radiant heat systems use a boiler system which heats the water to the desired temperature for the system in question. The system you are considering needs to be designed by a professional with experience in such systems.
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How should I remove the texture from the ceiling *without* tearing it out? We want to get rid of the texture on our ceiling. It's a very ugly stipple effect. However, there's a foot and a half of insulation over this ceiling. Knocking it down to install new drywall is not an option. We also don't really want to slap another layer of drywall on top of it, because we don't want to give up any more height than we have to. So we are torn between sanding it down with a very coarse paper on an orbital sander or just skim coating the entire thing (and yes I do know how much effort that is, I skim coated a whole wall once to eliminate the texture). Is there another option, and if not, which one of the two above should I use? Edit: The stipple I mention is joint compound which, while wet, was pulled down upon with a wet sponge, creating lots of peaks. It has subsequently been painted many times presumably over 72 years. (House built in 1940) <Q> I have the same thing. <S> We used two methods: 1st <S> we used a sander to lower the high points of the texture, <S> this is something you want to use as last resort. <S> After the sanding was finished I did a skim coat, then had to sand again to smooth the skim coat. <S> Super labor intensive. <S> The next room I just put up 3/8 drywall, took half the time. <S> It seems more practical to just give up a little space and hang drywall. <A> As with many textures, it is likely formed from water-soluble base like drywall topcoat. <S> If so, spray it with water from a spray bottle until you think it's saturated enough then take a wide drywall knife and see if you ca scrape it off. <S> If this works, you'll need to tape and re-texture afterwards. <S> They may often use a giant heavy-nap roller of sorts and "paint" on drywall mud. <S> Then they scrape it flat enough to base whatever texture you intend. <S> If you could manually scrape off the large peaks before this, though, it will work better. <A> This kind of textured coatingis generally known as Artex in the UK ( Wikipedia link .). <S> Take great care <S> if you set to it with a sander as other answers have suggested, as old Artex can contain asbestos. <S> The two ways I've dealt with it previously have been to either skim over it or to remove it by first using a scraper to knock the tops off the peaks then to steam it with a wallpaper stripper and to scrape the Artex off the ceiling. <S> Knocking the peaks off helps the steam penetrate through the layers of paint. <A> I was going to say "At least its not popcorn"! <S> . <S> You can also get a drywall sander that hooks up to a shop-vac to cut down on dust. <S> I think I would do what Matthew suggests and see if it can be knocked down some with a scraper first. <S> I would try a wall paper scraper, which I call a "razor blade on a stick". <S> You can wet it to keep down dust, but I doubt it will soften it since its covered with 40 years of paint. <A> This could result in butt joints next to impossible to correctly finish. <S> This has happened to me several times, forcing me to abort the re-hang and just skimming the texture already in place. <S> Scrape out <S> only the high points with a floor scraper--don't go crazy and tear up the rock--then for speed use a drywall texture pump to spray an even coat of mud to cover old texture. <S> Let this dry completely, then with a pole sander give it a light fast sand. <S> Don't remove too much base, then spray texture again with thin mud on small dial on hopper. <S> Give it a light orange peel. <A> This kind of coating is often put up to cover cracks etc in ceilings and is often not the original covering. <S> This can give you an advantage. <S> A steam wallpaper stripper can heat up the layers which will break the bonds of each coating and then it can be scraped/peeled off leaving the original plaster surface. <S> You may need to sand down a spot first as a starting point. <A> I stumbled on a good method. <S> I had a heavily textured ceiling with splattered mud. <S> I soaked it and scraped it like all the advice I found online. <S> It worked OK, but the best success came when I started using notched trowels to get the bulk of the work done. <S> Do it in layers, soaking after each step... <S> the first gets the surface scratched with a medium v-notch allowing water to soak in. <S> next after another good soak use a hearty 1/4" square notch which sort of chisels it off. <S> then fine square notch. <S> Then clean up with a flat sheetrock trowel, or <S> a flat masonry trowel works pretty good too. <S> work at right angles <S> so you make a waffle pattern. <S> The idea is weaken it each step <S> so it gives away without too much effort. <S> Patience in soaking with spray bottle softens it quite nicely. <S> The cieling underneath was painted underneath I should note...probably not the best method for bare sheetrock under. <A> One coat of base coat Durabond 90 and one coat of regular 90 mud. <S> The 90 is a mud you have to mix yourself; it's made by Sheetrock brand.
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Alternatively, a drywaller can skimcoat over the top of it, then re-texture to your liking. First you have to knock down the high spots with a scraper. The problem with re-hanging the drywall on the ceiling is the risk of getting halfway across the lid and finding that the framing no longer aligns with the joints.
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How can I determine why my lights are flickering? I have a child at home who has learning difficulties. Sometimes she jumps up and down on the floor. Recently this has caused the downstairs living room light to flicker. Upstairs under the floorboards I found a connector block with the three wires from the living room light switch going in one side and obviously three wires leaving the other side. Oddly the bare earths were just twisted loosely together underneath.Now I may not be a qualified electrician, but it's obvious that twisted wires isn't what you are supposed to do, so I replaced this with a six connector block strip and connected the wires back up properly. The light then worked correctly.The other day it started flickering again and after going out shopping for a few hours I returned and the light no longer worked. In the switch on the wall the two incoming wires are live in the off position and the single outgoing is zero volts...with the switch in the on position all wires are live. At the light itself both pins are live when switched on. is this caused by a broken neutral or by possibly something else, if so any pointers would be helpful. All other lights work without fault and live testing was done with a screwdriver as I do not have a test meter...a bulb will light between live and earth in the circuit. <Q> Flickering is caused by a bad connection somewhere . <S> It could be the bulb or socket that is bad (you did try a new bulb, right?), or it could be a bad connection anywhere along the line: at the fixture, switch, any electrical box along the way or a fault in a cable (staple, screw, etc.). <S> It could be the hot or neutral that is bad. <S> A sign of the neutral being open is other lights getting brighter or dimmer. <S> While the ground not being well connected would not cause the flickering, it might be a sign of other bad connections along the way. <S> You will need to visually and physically inspect all of the connections with the power turned off . <S> Wiggle wires, look for ones that pull out of connections. <S> Look for nicks or otherwise degrading wires. <S> Look for heavily oxidizes wires or connections. <S> You need to get yourself a non-contact voltage tester! <S> (source: homedepot.com ) <S> Call an electrician if you are unfamiliar with electrical work. <A> I don't know how much experience you have with electrical equipment <S> I would not suggest using a screwdriver for any kind of electrical testing. <S> In order for us to better answer your question, some pictures or illustrations would be helpful. <S> If the problem originated from vibration then it is likely you just have a loose connection somewhere. <S> However, when you say both pins at the light are live then it leads me to believe that the ground pin is misconnected. <A> This may be a simple fix. <S> I have been called to replace fixtures that all was needed (with the power off) is to lift the center contact about 1/8" and replace the lamp. <S> This failure is more common with vibration because the lamp is hot pushing on the contact when bounced it slowly moves away and no longer makes good contact. <S> Try prying the contact up to make better contact and see if that solves the flickering. <A> Turned out some unwise person had used the backplate of a ceiling rose under the bedroom floor run the wires into that, then took the feed on through the ceiling into the downstairs hall light. <S> In addition they had not secured the backplate to anything, so it was left to bounce around. <S> I replaced this awful connector and secured the replacement box to the joist, thereafter no more problems.
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Light fixtures that are subject to vibration can fail because the center contact in the fixture has moved away from the bulb. Check the wire insulation too. You shouldn't be testing live circuits with a screw driver, that's a going to get you killed. but I'm sure you know that mains power can easily kill and if you don't know what you are doing, please seek professional help (from an Electrician).
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Exhaust fixture for venting bathroom fan through roof I'm planning to install a roof vent for a bathroom exhaust fan I'm putting in. I'm thinking about using one of these : but I was wondering if I need to worry about it getting blocked by ice or snow? (I live in Minnesota.) <Q> Such a vent terminal can work, depending on your roof's micro climate. <S> Depending on prevailing wind, solar orientation, drifting patterns, etc. <S> there is often an area of the roof, usually near the ridge, which is relatively free of snow. <S> As B. White indicated, a wall outlet is preferable, though even that can be partially blocked by rime ice. <S> Even when covered with snow, depending on the duct configuration in the attic (if there is one), enough heat can be emitted even when not in use to maintain a free air passage through the snow. <S> When actually used, the heat serves to enlarge the path. <S> However, it also causes an ice surface to form around the passage, limiting further expansion. <S> In addition, the expelled moisture contributes more ice, such that the passage can get smaller, and possibly even blocked. <S> Much moisture though, ends up collecting as rime ice, which can grow to block the passage as well. <S> Fortunately, it is a fragile structure that collapses during any occasional thaw. <S> If not located in a relatively snow free region, the terminal can be sheared off by moving snow, or crushed. <S> Even if the roof does not shed snow, if it is sloped, the snow pack will slowly creep, eventually crushing or breaking fragile roof appurtenances. <S> If your roof gets heavy snow pack everywhere, you can use stack terminals such as those used for gas vents. <S> They can be extended up any distance to remain above the snow pack. <S> They still need to be located near the ridge to avoid damage. <A> I have one, I'm in MA, it causes the snow to melt around it, run down to colder areas and freeze, creating ice damns on either side of it. <S> Never had an issue with it being blocked. <S> I plan on changing it out this spring because of this issue, I extended it all the way down the roof two years ago hopping it would correct it, it didn't. <A> It depends on where you live (sorry to state the blindingly obvious) <S> It would be better to vent out the side of the house where that is not an issue. <S> It may even be "code" to do so. <A> I live in Ontario and just coming out of a major deep freeze and found out the hard way that style of vent shown caused a massive ice dam all around the vent. <S> The vent ended up buried in snow and started to drip into the bathroom. <S> Cleaned off the snow and problem stopped for now, but plan to install a vent stack this spring. <A> I have this style vent and ended up with water dripping into my bathroom through the pipe this winter. <S> (northern Michigan) <S> It has gone through multiple winters without any issues but this year is particularly bad with one very windy snowy day when the issue started. <S> It did manage to clear itself and the vent is working again. <S> I'm certainly going to get that vent replaced with something that has an extension pipe. <S> Unfortunately it's not anywhere near the ridgeline either... <S> more than halfway down the slope. <S> I originally thought about using a soffit vent instead but the roofers that replaced my roof said that they've never had any complaints about this style.... <S> they will have a complaint now.
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but yes, any vent on a horizontal or semi-horizontal surface can get blocked by snowfall. If you must vent on the roof, this is where it should go, regardless of the type.
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How do I remove a chimney? I've got a chimney in my 50's-era house that doesn't do anything. It's a regular brick and mortar chimney but it used to be used to vent the old oil heater (it's been converted to natural gas since). The chimney isn't used any more. I don't believe it's structural. Let's assume it's not but I'll get a second opinion on that before I do anything. I've looked online and it seems that you just need to get an air hammer, chisel out the mortar and remove the chimney brick by brick. Then patch up the roof and the floor. The chimney sits on its own foundation in the crawlspace, so I'd have to frame and cover the floor as well as the ceiling. The chimney is in the middle of the house and is not attached to an outside wall. Is that about right? Anything else to it? I understand it makes a massive mess in the house. I'd probably send my family to live with my sister across town for a few days. I know I'd need a respirator, good gloves and goggles. Any other recommendations? <Q> You didn't mention how tall the chimney is. <S> 2 story house or single. <S> Is there or was there ever a displacement for a fireplace, one flue or two? <S> Lined or bare brick interior? <S> In general, the procedure is brick by brick. <S> A small mini jack/impact hammer will speed up the process, but it can be done with a hammer and cold chisel. <S> Most chimneys are independently supported and not structural to walls or the roof. <S> there may be ties to framing members that you will have to cut or remove as you go through the roof or floor. <S> You definitely want to use basic safety equipment like a dust mask, gloves and good eye protection. <S> You can cut down on the dust and debris spreading in the house by hanging plastic from the ceilings around the work area. <S> Use some painter's tape to hang lightweight plastic from the ceiling creating an enclosed area around your work area. <S> This is a bit neater and saves bringing bricks through the house. <A> We had our roof replaced due to hail damage. <S> I asked the guys to take the top of the chimney down below the roof line and replace the deck. <S> It only cost an extra $100. <S> Then I took it down at my leisure when no one was around. <S> using 5 gal buckets. <S> You only need a small sledge hammer to release the old brick. <S> You will end up with almost as much mortar debris as bricks, so be prepared for that. <S> The old brick is pretty much useless as it is not high fired brick. <S> In other words, it will disintegrate if you use it as a garden border outside. <S> Give a brick a good solid hit and it will release, then the others at that level come off easy. <S> I'm using my newfound space as a new furnace return from the second floor, and a new register in the bathroom. <S> make sure you cover the remaining hole with fire grade drywall or 3/4 inch plywood to ensure the fireblock between floors. <S> And, enjoy your newfound space! <S> It is a lot of heavy work so be careful and use proper lifting methods. <S> The dust is mostly heavy dust. <S> When you go to remove a section of liner, if it has heavy soot inside then place an industrial plastic garbage bag over it before removal, that will help keep the dust down. <A> Homes built in the 50's may have used asbestos in the mortar mix. <S> It was a commonly used fire proofing material back in the day. <S> As a precaution, I would encapsulate the area in plastic, use rated respirators, and vacuum the dust using HEPA filter. <S> You can keep the dust down by wetting the bricks and mortar. <S> If the mortar is bright white rather than dull gray, I would have it tested before demo. <S> My chimney had what appeared to be one piece square cinder blocks, about 40lbs each, 3 floors of block is a lot to move, and dispose of properly. <S> Be Safe! <S> Good Luck!
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One cool trick on chimneys with a large flue opening and a clean out on the bottom is to drop the bricks one at a time to the bottom and have a helper remove them and stack them at the bottom.
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Why does my dusk to dawn light go off when the furnace kicks in? My dusk to dawn light goes off whenever my furnace kicks in throughout the night. It obviously comes back on right away, but it takes a minute or so to be fully restored. What is the reason behind this and how can I fix this? <Q> Understanding the problem Think of your wiring like a pipe full of water, and each device like a pump. <S> Each pump draws a specific amount of water, but not necessarily the same amount as any of the other pumps, and the water in the pipe can only be supplied at a fixed rate. <S> When the light turns on, it "pumps" a small amount of water from the supply pipe. <S> This amount is far less than the pipes supply rate, so there is no problem. <S> When the furnace comes on, it "pumps" a huge amount of water (for a short time). <S> This amount is close to, or greater than the amount of water in the supply pipe. <S> This means there is less water in the pipe for the light, so the light cannot function properly. <S> This is an over simplified, and arguably inaccurate analogy. <S> Solving the problem <S> First off, <S> Having the light on the same circuit as the furnace is not correct. <S> This should be fixed as soon as possible, and will likely solve the problem you are seeing. <S> This could be an indication that one of the components of the furnace is reaching the end of its life, and needs to be serviced. <S> High current draws in an appliance are commonly caused by motors. <S> Motors will draw more current while starting than they do when they are running, this is known as inrush current and can quite a bit higher than the devices full-load current. <S> This large current draw during start-up can be increased if additional force is needed to get the motor spinning, for example if the bearings are going bad. <S> You'll want to inspect the furnace, and pay close attention to any motors. <S> Make sure they are properly greased, and working normally. <S> If this has always been an issue all along, the furnace is probably operating normally and there is nothing to worry about. <S> If this has only become an issue recently, you may want to inspect your furnace (or have a professional inspect it). <A> It sounds like they are on the same circuit or <S> you're having some significant power fluctuations in your house. <S> Both are bad. <S> The cause is likely that a power "dip" is resetting either then ambient light detector or the light itself <S> (you didn't say what kind it was). <A> Maybe the dusk to dawn timer is set to come on at the same o'clock on a serendipitously-synchronized clock as the furnace thermostat clock. <S> The light turns off in the morning (dawn) at about the time most digital set-back thermostats are set to increase temperature from the overnight set-back temperature (say, 'heat on' from setback 62 deg to 'at home' 69 degrees starting at 5 or 6 or 7 or 8am, depending on when you wake). <S> Typical dusk to dawn timer settings on a simple electro-mechanical timer switch device might be 5:30 or 6 or 7:30am depending on what time dawn is in your region (and in the current season, if someone has adjusted the timer for daylight time shift).
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You'd need an DSO (digital storage oscilloscope) on the line to your light to see what power spikes are appearing when the furnace kicks in, but checking the furnace to make sure it's on a dedicated circuit would be a good start.
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Should I be worried about this gap in electrical conduit? Background My project this weekend is to get my garage repowered so my tenant will be able to plug his car in during the winter months. When I bought my house it was recently renovated by house flippers who made the basement into a suite and I suspect they used the circuit that was going to the garage to power the new bathroom's lights/fan. The problem As you can see in this photo I have a gap between my power pipe and my house. The questions Is this a safety issue? Is there something I can use to fix it that is water proof, electricity proof and cold weather resistant? Area view Noticeable features include dirt from grading and hail damage to the laundry vent... <Q> I see 3 problems: The gap , as you noticed. <S> One of the conductors' insulation is damaged (I think - it's not obvious from the picture) <S> That's EMT , which is not a good choice for burial . <S> The couplings are not strong enough (as you can see) and they're not waterproof. <S> It is technically allowed, though, per NEC 358.10. <S> I'd recommend replacing it with PVC, which is very durable and easy to work with. <S> If you do this, I suggest oversizing the conduit a couple sizes, to make pulling the wires easier and to leave room for future upgrades. <S> And while you're at it, put a subpanel in the garage. <A> Yes, it is a safety issue, wiring should always be covered by something, anywhere. <S> The connection should be water tight, the connector used is not. <S> Electric proof is not an issue, that is the job of the insulation of the wires. <S> Cold resistant is not an issue for the wiring, but could be an issue if the cold made some protective material brittle. <S> I suspect the back fill that the tubing is placed in settled, pulling the buried portion away from the above ground portion. <S> If you can't pull the sections together to reattach, you may have a problem. <S> It may be worth digging up the tubing to get more play to reattach, as the only code compliant fix I know of is to either replace the entire run, reusing materials where possible, or insert a new box to make up for the gap. <S> You'll have to cut the wires to place the box. <S> There may be enough slack to reattach them, otherwise, pigtail them together with short new lengths. <S> Be sure to use water tight box and connectors if you go this route. <S> The box must remain accessible. <S> I shouldn't even mention this. <S> The hillbilly fix would be to get a length of plastic water tubing, the thin walled gray stuff (PB?) <S> is what I've seen, of adequate diameter. <S> Slit it along <S> it's length <S> , wrap it around the open joint, and seal the overlap and the tubing above and below with silicone sealant. <S> Clamp in place with several screw type hose clamps. <S> Far from code compliant <S> but it adequately protects the wiring. <S> More water tight than the current connector. <A> I don't know if it's code compliant <S> but 3M makes a waterproof tape you can find at hardware stores. <S> In my younger days, we used this to protect spliced wiring underground for traffic lights. <S> You wrap the tape around the connection, in my case, and squeeze the substance to seal it. <S> Seems it might be called "splicing tape". <S> I don't know if this is it. <S> I'm wondering if there is something similar for conduit.
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Protection from weather is an issue, you do not want water or debris entering the wiring space. The tubing can rust away below ground.
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Can I shave the bottom of a metal casement window to get it to close fully? I have a Casement Window installed that, as the new building has begun to settle, now has to be forced closed. It is on the verge of breaking the crank off now because it is so difficult. While wood is easy to shave to help fit, the window and its frame are made of metal. Can I shave the metal to make the window close properly or any other method? I think 1/8" - 1/4" is all the needs to be taken back. The option to reseat the pivot point is not available, outside of a contractor doing it. <Q> Rather than attack the window itself, I'd re-install it. <S> Usually there's a gap around the frame filled with spray foam insulation. <S> Take the trim off the inside to see it. <S> You'll also see a bunch of screws that hold the window frame to the house frame. <S> See if you can take them out. <S> Once this is done, you can scrape off the spray foam with a stiff knife. <S> Stuff <S> the screw holes with toothpicks or matchsticks (take off the heads with nail clippers), and remount the window, making sure it's square. <S> In most situations, the settling is transferred to the window via the screws and or spray foam -- That is, the house hasn't settled enough to close the gap completely. <S> If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, it shouldn't cost a whole lot to get someone to do it for you. <S> On the order of $100, Less if you can make it an add on to another job you're having done. <A> Sure, why not. <S> But it may seem easier that it is. <S> If you are able to remove the window to work on it, the job may be not too bad. <S> If you need to do it in place, it may be much more of a challenge. <S> A hand grinder is probably the best way to cut away the excess. <S> Score a line to mark the diagonal you want to trim or else <S> you will have no way of gauging how close you are to done. <S> Obviously you should keep checking to see if you have gone far enough. <S> Then take just a bit more to allow for thermal expansion and random shifting. <S> Wear goggles, gloves and work slowly. <S> Too much heat (from friction) in an area can crack glass. <S> Grind away! <A> Do you actually have 1/4" of material to remove? <S> Given the thickness of the extrusions from older ones I've worked with, you'll probably find, given modern, more efficient manufacturing technique, that you have even less material there to work with. <S> Did someone by chance use standard expansion Urethane foam around the window frame? <S> Sounds like it warped the frame and you'll be getting more mileage for your money cutting out the foam to release the pressure. <S> Otherwise, @Chris Cudmore's recommendation to remove the window and reinstall it properly is indicated.
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Remounting the frame will solve the problem and leave your window intact.
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Why does water surge out of the shower head after being turned off? This can happen 30 minutes later or even many hours later after a shower is taken. The new shower fixture installed didn't solve the problem. Can anything be done to correct this and prevent this surge of water? <Q> By surge of water, I'm guessing you mean a quick trickle that would fill a cup and not a hard spray that would let you wash your hair. <S> Like Steven says , the shower head will still have water in it after you shut off the water. <S> My guess for why you see the surge is that the water is held in the shower head by water tension at each of the nozzles. <S> Eventually that breaks from vibration, water contracting as it cools, or drying out. <S> This allows air to be sucked into the shower head while water drains out the rest of the nozzles. <S> There's nothing much to fix. <S> But if it bothers you, give it a shake or run your finger over the nozzles to break the surface tension. <S> Another suggestion is to make sure your shower head is mounted at an angle, rather than spraying downwards. <A> There is usually still some water left in the shower head due to how they are designed. <S> Mine has a number of pivots in it, and if I point it directly down, a fair amount of water will pour out after it has been off for some time. <S> If you watch your toilets sometimes you can see the water level rise and fall slightly too. <S> I'm not sure why it's an issue that needs to be "resolved", but if you get a detachable shower head, then you can just hang the shower head from the flexible pipe and all of the water will come out. <A> Some bath fixtures have a diverter (the gadget that directs water to either the faucet or the shower head) that is designed so that if you put it into the "shower" position, it will stay there until you either manually set it to "faucet" or you turn off the water. <S> They typically look like a knob on the top of the faucet. <S> Once you turn off the water, gravity pulls the diverter back into the "faucet" position, and any water remaining in the pipe up to and in the shower head simply falls back down and out the faucet. <S> Over time, the diverter can get gummed up with soap scum or hard water deposits, making it hard to move freely on its own. <S> If this happens, the water stays in the pipes until one of the events <S> @BMitch describes occurs. <S> You should be able to get it to move more freely by opening and closing the diverter several times. <S> If that's not enough, I've also had some luck with spraying Scrubbing Bubbles foaming cleaner where the stem of the diverter enters the faucet, letting it sit for a few minutes, then opening and closing the diverter.
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My guess is that changes in atmospheric pressure cause the water to come out of the shower head after-the-fact.
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Door replacement - will door still be solid after cutting? I need to replace/repair a door in my rented apartment. During a rather rowdy party one of my guests managed to put a hole in my bathroom door. I don't think that there is probably anyway to repair the door cleanly. (If you look carefully I drilled a whole in the broken in piece and tried to pull it back out). I think that the easiest solution is going to be replacing the door. (Please let me know if there are any suggestions). The dimensions of the door are somewhat strange. The door is 74'' tall and 28'' wide. I cannot find a 74'' x 28'' door anywhere. The closest thing that I can find is 78'' x 28'. I am thinking I will buy a similar door and cut off the bottom (or have it cut off at home depo). I am concerned that it is not going to be solid after being cut. Here is a diagram: ^ ============ ^ | || || | | || || | | || || |74'' || || 78'' | || || | | || || | v |---cut----| | || || | ============ v I was planning on using this kind of door : <Q> On numerous occasions I have had to cut hollow core doors off more than the available blocking in the top / bottom of the door. <S> What I have done in these instances is to take the cut off bottom piece and then reclaimed the inner block for re-use. <S> If a table saw is available <S> it is quick work to set the fence just right so that a couple of rip direction passes cleanly cuts off the outer laminations. <S> Alternatively the laminations can be removed using a plane. <S> Once the block is nicely cleaned up it can be glued and slipped right up into the open bottom of the door. <S> Note that often the inside of hollow core doors has an internal webbing of cardboard material to bridge the gap between the two lamination skins of the door. <S> Sometimes it is necessary to use a chisel inside the cut open bottom of the door to scrape back the glue joint of this web material on the laminated panel. <S> If this is not smoothed out the re-claimed bottom block will make the laminated sides bulge out when trying to glue the block in place. <A> It would be better to cut 2" off the top and 2" off the bottom. <S> It's unlikely that the bottom 4" (or more) of the door will be solid. <S> It's not certain the the top and bottom 2" will be solid either - but it's more likely. <S> If you go to a smaller store - rather than a big barn - the owner/assistant is more likely to know whether the door is suitable for trimming and how much can be trimmed of each edge. <A> What you can do is the following. <S> I have used this techniques on several occasions for doors (hollow), walls (plaster and chipboards), and it is almost impossible to notice it has been repaired if you are accurate in these steps: <S> Cut out the whole piece and sand down edges on both the door and piece. <S> Remove any splints etc. <S> that would stick out. <S> Also degrease the door <S> (wash it with soap) <S> - see later step why. <S> Glue solid wood pieces on the backside in the opening. <S> Place them <S> so you get the pieces flux with the door backside. <S> Make sure you use something to tight them with properly (ie. <S> Quickgrip) while the glue is drying, and use proper glue! <S> You might need to do this is two or more steps. <S> In your case I would suggest something like this: (doesn't have to look pretty, but function as solid support for the next step) - use my suggestion only as a pointer, you need to see on-location <S> what actually is possible: When glue is completely dry, glue back the piece you cut out onto the supports. <S> Gaps are ok, but don't make them too big! <S> (see next step) <S> You can use small screws to tighten the piece onto the supports. <S> If you do, screw them in <S> so they go a bit into the wood (use screws meant for wood and with flat top). <S> After the glue is dry, use filler for wood or plaster to fill in the gaps. <S> When dry, sand down and repeat for another two times to get proper result. <S> You might need to wait 24 hours between each step (read the instructions). <S> If you used screws, fill the top of these as well (remember the step to leave them a bit inside the wood). <S> Do a final sanding and repaint the whole door with two layers of paint in the color and shine of the original paint. <S> This should leave the door pretty (perhaps prettier than original due to the new paint). <S> This is also a low-cost method. <S> Happy repair! <A> Exterior doors are usually solid all the way through. <S> Interior doors are usually hollow everywhere except for around the permitter, in order to make it lighter/easier to open and close. <S> I would just tap the door with your knuckles to find out where it is solid. <S> You're only cutting 4 inches off, so you should be OK with most doors. <S> If not, buy an exterior door instead.
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A fair amount of the bottom of the door is usually solid so that you can cut the size smaller, but this will vary. Use a couple of 1x4 boards on either side of the door and some good sized C-Clamps to tighten up the glue joint so that the glue can dry without any gaps.
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How to address mold/moss on newer roof? I have an old house with a new(er) installed roof shingle that's about 5 years old. In removing leaves from the gutter today, I noticed green moss? mold? around some of the areas close to the house. A couple of questions: Should I worry about this? (does it reduce the effectiveness of the shingle). If yes, then question 2 come into play. Can it be corrected in the area that are truly unsightly with a chemical or something? I have kids so it would need to be safe. If yes, question 3 comes into play. If some cleaning can be done to fix, is this a DIY or does a service have to be contacted? Once corrected, is there any preventative measures that can be done to avoid this? Appreciate time in advance for your thoughts. <Q> Actually, there's a great suggestion in one of my favorite general-knowledge renovation books about how to prevent moss growth. <S> This is a much more permanent way to solve the problem, IMHO. <S> Tack up a line of copper wire (not zinc) just after the first line of shingles (close to the top). <S> Copper is bad for plant life, and so the slight copper solution from rain washing over it will kill off moss. <S> Obviously the wire needs to be bare, so if you're using scrap, be sure to give it a good wipe with 80 grit sandpaper before putting it up. <S> Sorry I don't have the book in front of me, so I can't name the page number or quote it precisely. <S> Of course, take care tacking up the wire to observe common-sense principles about putting holes in your roof. <S> Depending where & how you attach the wire, you might want to cover the nails, staples, etc with roofing cement. <S> Also, while this solution makes sense to me, I haven't used it. <S> I'm basing my suggestion on the stellar reputation of this book. <A> Should I worry about this? <S> (does it reduce the effectiveness of the shingle). <S> If yes, then question 2 come into play. <S> Can it be corrected in the area that are truly unsightly with a chemical or something? <S> I have kids so it would need to be safe. <S> If yes, question 3 comes into play. <S> Yes. <S> Actually, you want to correct it over the entirety of the roof. <S> You can purchase spray-on as well as granule based moss killer. <S> That is what you want. <S> If some cleaning can be done to fix, is this a DIY or does a service have to be contacted? <S> You can DIY <S> or you can hire a service. <S> If you live in a moss-friendly region (such as the Pacific North West of the USA) <S> then you'll find all sorts of people that do pretty much just this. <S> Either way, be sure to hire people that use very gentle cleaning methods. <S> You don't want power washing or anything of that sort. <S> Once corrected, is there any preventative measures that can be done to avoid this? <S> The only real remedy is to not shingle a roof with asphalt shingles in moss-prone regions. <S> That's why you see a lot of standing seam metal roofing in wet areas. <S> Barring that, you just need to make the moss prevention an annual chore. <S> Some claim that zinc strips will work (as zinc will kill the moss) though, at least around here, you can find plenty of roofs with zinc strips that also still have plenty of moss on them, so I tend to think that's a bit of a scam solution. <A> Should you worry about moss on asphalt shingles? <S> The moss itself, not so much. <S> The reason the moss is growing is the bigger problem. <S> Moss, like mold prefers damp conditions. <S> This dampness could be a normal occurrence in your location (very rainy location), or because the roof has too much shade cover. <S> Damp location <S> If you live in a damp location, where the sun just does not shine enough to dry out the roof. <S> You'll want to find a moss killing product, and apply it annually or even biannually depending on how fast the moss grows. <S> A gentle application process is best. <S> You won't want to walk all over your roof twice a year, and you defiantly don't want to power wash or brush your roof often (if at all). <S> Too much shade <S> While shade can be great for keeping a house cooler, it can also be great for aiding in mold, moss, and mildew growth. <S> In most situations, a few hours of sun a day will dry up excess dampness (rain, dew, etc.) on the roof. <S> If there is too much shade on the roof, the dampness will not dry naturally. <S> The best thing to do in this situation, is to remove some of the shade. <S> This is usually achieved by trimming, or cutting down nearby trees. <S> You likely won't have to remove all the shade, just enough to allow the sun to hit the roof a few hours a day.
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There's certainly more important things to worry about in life, but, yes, Moss will, over time, shorten the lifespan of asphalt shingles.
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What could cause clothes to come out of the dryer with tiny burn or scorch marks? I have a fairly standard Hotpoint vented electric tumble dryer, which normally works as you would expect, drying clothes, venting the humid air out the side wall, and with a lint trap I empty every load. Over the past couple of months, though, I have seen a few shirts come out with tiny (1 to 2 mm) scorch marks and am a bit baffled as to the cause. I can't find any marks inside the drum or door seal, and there doesn't appear to be anything that looks burnt in the lint trap. I can't find this symptom described anywhere using a quick google, so does anyone know what could cause this or any area I should be looking at to try and diagnose the issue? <Q> Pop open the front panel under the door and vacuum out the lint. <S> It collects inside the housing and pieces get drawn into the air heating elements and blown into the drum. <S> Having nothing to do with the lint trap, this stuff accumulates because it slowly migrates through the felt drum seal. <S> You may have a potentially dangerous situation here. <S> Any other type of materials that get into the cabinet will also get vacuumed up and blown through the heating elements (glowing coils) which essentially turns them into glowing embers. <S> This kind of overheating will brown large areas, not pinpoints. <S> Make this cleaning task a six month or yearly scheduled event. <A> The "scorch" marks are actually/likely the result of the clothing rubbing on the felt pad surrounding the drum. <S> I just went through this exact thing last week and <S> after replacing the drum glides for $30 bucks, I was back in business with no more scorch marks. <A> The front of the dryer has foam strips that scorch over time. <S> They are where the drum meets the front panel. <S> Ive found that they last around 4years and then need replacing. <S> They are not difficult to replace and cost around $60 with shipping.
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Over time they wear down and cause the drum to sit lower than it should, which then pinches your clothes between the drum and the housing. The air heater has a thermal limit switch that is supposed to break power to the elements if they're overheating. It could also be the front drum glides on your model.
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What is the proper deck footing depth in Connecticut? I'm moving a deck footing for an existing deck, the current one is in the wrong location and it's too small. What is the proper depth in Connecticut in order to ensure that it doesn't suffer from frost heaving? <Q> Some research says the frost line in CT is around 42" <S> so you'd do well to put the posts down 48". <S> The city will be able to verify this when you get your permit approved. <S> Count yourself lucky... <S> In Ottawa, Ontario I had to put them down 60"... <S> and they still heaved one year. <A> http://www.ct.gov/dcs/lib/dcs/2016_ct_state_building_code.pdf <S> (Amd) 1809.5 Frost protection. <S> Except where otherwise protected from frost, foundations and other permanent supports of buildings and structures shall be protected from frost by one or more of the following methods: Extending a minimum of 42 inches below finished grade ; Constructing in accordance with ASCE 32; or Erecting on solid rock. <S> Exception: Free-standing buildings or structures meeting all of the following conditions shall not be required to be protected: <S> Assigned to Risk Category <S> I, in accordance with Section 1604.5; Area of 600 square feet (56 m2) or less for light frame construction or 400 square feet (37 m2) or less for other than light-frame construction; and Eave height of 10 feet (3048 mm) or less. <S> Shallow foundations shall not bear or be installed on frozen soil. <A> I'm an excavation contractor in CT. <S> Digging footings is one of my areas of expertise. <S> The CT frost line is said to be 36" but rarely gets that deep. <S> 42" is the standard requirement for footing depth, <S> Many times people like to go up to 48" for good measure.
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You need to place the footings deeper than the frost line.
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How do I determine the ideal height stool for a given height surface (table, counter, bar, etc.)? My immediate need is to ensure that I'm matching the right height stools to a kitchen island, but I assume there's a standard difference that's ideal for an eating seat to be from the eating surface? (Note that I don't want to consider the height of the user(s); I'm looking for the best bet to accomodate most users.) <Q> They are: <S> Table height: 30in (750mm), with a chair at 18in (450mm). <S> Counter height: 36in (900mm), with stools at 24 in (600mm). <S> Standard bar height: 42in (1050mm), stools at 30in (750mm). <S> Extra tall bar height: 48in (1200mm) <S> , stools at 36in (900mm). <S> (Source: runmyhouse.com ) <S> In all these combinations, the difference in height between seat and table/counter surfaces is 12in (300mm). <S> Whether or not this is ergonomically ideal, most people will be used to these sorts of dimensions, so sticking with them is a safe bet. <A> Find a comfortable table & chair combination. <S> Measure the difference between the chair seat height and the table surface height. <S> Subtract that value from the counter surface height <S> Buy stools with roughly that seat height. <S> The only adjustment that you may need to make is if the counter surface is especially thick; you won't have enough space under their for your legs, and you'll want to lower the seat height to compensate. <A> I think it depends on the task at hand. <S> The standard is 12 . <S> I have a work benchAt 39 with one stool at 29 and one stool at 24. <S> The taller stool for me is a good height for most everything but more intricate jobs <S> the shorter stool puts me Closer to my work. <S> Another point I'm 5ft 9in tall and a 10 gap table to seat is a good fit for me.too much gap ya start to feel like a munchkin.
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There are common established heights for table/counter surface and seating combinations.
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How do you navigate an unfinished attic? My attic only has plywood around our HVAC. The rest is just covered with cellulose insulation. How do people get around their unfinished attics? I've been up with a flashlight trying to judge where the beams are, but I know it's just one missed step before my legs are hanging through the ceiling (it happened to a friend). <Q> Since my attic requires maintenance on solar vents and a power vent in the end gable, I took 5/8" plywood, divided it into three lengthwise strips and put a catwalk down the center of the attic. <S> As a prior answer notes, use a small rake to fluff the insulation back over to the proper depth when you're through. <S> This was after a few years of playing Tarzan, catching the truss uprights and gauging where the feet went. <S> Then you get off by two inches in a partial slip (did I mention hanging onto the truss members?) and find yourself staring ceiling repairs in the face. <S> The plywood's cheaper than figuring out how to replace a ceiling with heating cables embedded in its lower surface. <A> One clue is that the construction of most buildings has the ceiling joists lined up directly with the rafters. <S> This will be especially true when the roof structure is built up using engineered trusses. <A> Do it slowly as there may be wiring strung across in any direction. <S> Then get yourself a scrap piece of plywood you can set down in areas where you need a work surface or somewhere to kneel. <S> I just got this rake for attic work: <S> I might cut the handle down a little shorter but otherwise it works well. <S> When you're done you can use the rake to replace and fluff up the insulation. <S> (Even when you don't fall through the ceiling, stepping on the insulation compresses it which reduces its effectiveness.) <S> I also found it helpful to install a few eye hooks <S> so I'd have somewhere to hang my work light without having to worry about it falling down.
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Get a shrub rake with plastic tines and just rake the insulation out of the way until you can see the tops of the beams where you need to walk.
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Can I hang a heavy weight from a concrete ceiling if I reinforce it with fiberglass? I'm investigating the possibility of hanging a pull-up bar/ rock-climbing training board from the concrete ceiling in my apartment. The slab is 180mm (7inches) thick and the (static) weight which I would need to support would be 70-90kg (155-200lb). My ceiling is also my neighbour's floor, the building is from 1958... I've read similar questions and responses here and the the issue seems to be tensile strength of the concrete. Originally I planned to use two expanding bolts and an epoxy to help secure them but now I'm not sure. My question is: would adhering fibreglass sheets to the ceiling where I place the bolts help to improve the ceiling's tensile strength and reduce the chance of the concrete cracking/failing? If I did this I imagine I would first drill the holes for the bolts, then glue fibreglass sheeting over the whole area, and then pierce the sheet just over the holes in order to place the bolts. Is this a terrible idea? A free-standing structure is not an option - it's ceiling or nothing. EDIT: Seems like the general consensus on the fibreglass is it wouldn't help. Can anyone suggest an alternative method of safely anchoring the load to the ceiling if money was no object and I wanted to seriously over-engineer this setup? Distributing the load over a wider surface with 2x4 and/or marine ply or similiar and using that as an anchor etc? <Q> (I think this was covered in a few previous questions... <S> I'm certain I've given this answer before) <S> You would want to build a structure out of steel, either angle iron or square tube, with legs that will spread your weight load across the floor. <S> Many structures are available pre-made, even ones that fold up flat, for crossfit enthusiasts, or you can always manufacture your own with metal, an angle grinder, and a drill and bolts. <A> No matter what you do, the load will be relying on the strength of the bond on a surface that is no larger than the surface area around the diameter of the fastener. <S> a few square inches. <S> This is friction and maybe shear strength of a thin chemical bond, not compression strength. <S> I do not know the math, but an overhead load approaching 1000 lbs relying on the diameter of a few bolts <S> sounds scary. <S> Unless someone (manufacturer or contributor here) can give you a firm test strength that exceeds 500lbs per fastener when pulled straight out , I would avoid it. <A> Use 3/8 <S> " x 5" wedge-all anchors to put up a piece of unistrut 2/3's longer than your bar. <S> Put your anchors in every 5 inches, hang the bar form the unistrut. <S> We hang ceiling lifts this way to pick up bariatric patients. <A> All you need is 4 3/8" drop-in anchors. <S> We support transformers from the concrete ceiling in electrical rooms all the time. <S> The manufacturer for the drop-in anchor has specifications for exactly how many thousands of pounds each bolt can handle. <S> The fiberglass idea and epoxy ideas are terrible. <S> Concrete gets stronger when it is old, so you don't have to worry about it being old. <S> You will need a SDS hammer drill to make the hole. <S> Make sure you make it the proper size. <A> Gluing fiberglass to the ceiling will not help anything. <S> This is like nailing something to a wall through wallpaper. <S> Does the wallpaper make the nail any stronger? <S> No. <S> (Concrete is generally assumed to have zero tensile strength, anyway.) <S> The load on the concrete ceiling is not really significant—it's basically the same as if you were standing (or jumping) on the floor from above. <S> The issue is going to be sure that you get an anchor that will not pull out or break off a chunk of concrete around it. <S> This is probably going to be specified by the anchor manufacturer (possibly with several values, depending on the strength of the concrete). <A> Personally I would not even begin to attempt to hang athletic equipment from a concrete ceiling. <S> That said there are reasonable ways to do this in a safe way. <S> There are commercial / industrial anchors that should be used for this type of application. <S> If you were to use this approach I would be selecting fasteners that penetrated as far up into the 7" ceiling thickness as possible. <A> You could use lag shields. <S> There are 3/8" ones available that spec out at 3300 lbs/anchor. <S> You can find more information here . <A> Stop and think for a moment. <S> What are the consequences of the ceiling FAILING because you drilled holes in it and hung weights from those holes? <S> Is it possible that the ceiling may fail catastrophically? <S> You're also weakening the upstairs neighbor's floor, which may at times be very near its design limits. <S> What happens if you're hanging from one point while a very heavy person rolls a refrigerator across the upstairs floor directly above you? <S> Don't do this thing.
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The tensile strength of the concrete is also not the concern. The correct answer here is to not hang the load from points on the ceiling, which will damage the structure and could make you liable for losses due to the damage, but to build a structure that will spread the load on the floor. The best ones are insertable bolt studs that are glued into the hole with special epoxy. A quick search on the web with epoxy concrete fasterners will provide a plethora of information.
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Do I need to cut into my drywall to install a switch? I'm looking to put a light in outside my house. The light is going to be positioned directly behind the outlet I have pictured below where the wires are sticking out. I want the switch to control power to this light: I suspect it to be using this kind of gang box: I think I need to: Hit one of the knockouts in the gang box out either in the top or bottom of the box. Drill a hole in the 2x4 to get the switch where I need it. I want to do this with cutting out as little drywall as possible. Can I do this without cutting out all of the dry wall between the switch and the outlet? If so, how do I removed the gang box to remove one of the knock outs? <Q> You're going to have to do drywall repair if you move this switch. <S> So since you HAVE to do drywall repair regardless, why shy away from doing it the right way? <S> Cut away a big enough piece of drywall so that you have full access to the existing box, the space where the new box will be, and keep cutting right and left until you hit the bordering studs on either side. <S> Do your electrical work. <S> Cut out space for your new box. <S> Cut pieces of 1x2 to fit vertically on the insides of the left and right studs, and to fit across the tops and bottoms of the opening. <S> (6 pieces total) <S> Install the vertical pieces parallel to the studs with 1" side facing you, so you have a screw edge. <S> Install the horizontal pieces so that the 2" side is facing you and half of it is behind the existing drywall. <S> Screw it in place in the existing drywall. <S> Take your cut piece of drywall and mount it on the 6 1x2"s you just installed. <S> Tape and mud - 3 coats - fill coat, feather, final. <A> If I understand what you have in mind, the light will not be in the room pictured but on the other side of this wall. <S> The outlet box in the first picture (holding the wires) cannot be buried in the wall without access. <S> If you use that box, it need to have a plate on the room side, even if that plate is a blank. <S> That outlet box already in the wall is more likely one like this <S> In most buildings wired in the past 50 years, the wires are non-metalic (NM), that is, the outside insulation is a plastic sheath, rather than a metal cover. <S> These wires are held in by a clamp. <S> The box you picture with the knockouts is used with metal covered wires or wires inside metal conduit (although there is an adapter clamp available for NM cables). <S> You will need to install a box on the outer wall to attach the light fixture to. <S> You need to make sure that box is watertight once the fixture is installed. <S> Remember that no wire connections can be outside a box or inaccessible. <S> Unless you want the switch exactly where you have pictured it, you could use the old box for the switch and place the new box slightly higher or to the side of the old box, but on the same side of the stud. <S> When you loosen the wire clamp, you may be able to reach the much smaller knockout which can usually be removed with a screwdriver. <S> Then you can leave the power wire in the old box and run a new cable for the switched wire and the neutral and ground from the old box to the new box. <S> You must make sure that all wires you are approaching are not live. <S> After opening the breaker, test every wire with a non-contact tester, such as this one. <A> If it is allowed in your area - and different areas have different codes - I would use an "old work" plastic box; you just cut a hole of the proper size in the drywall, and put the box in.
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You probably are better off loosening the clamps that hold the wire in, removing the existing box, rerouting the wire from that box to the new box for the fixture and running another set of wires from the switch box to the new box. Cut 1 piece of drywall to fit the huge gaping hole you made. Only the switch will be on this side.
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What's the right connector for connecting #12 solid copper to #14 stranded? Still working on installing my exhaust fan. It required a dedicated 20A circuit so I ran #12 copper. The wiring from the unit appears to be #14 stranded. It's also silver colored but I don't know if that means it's aluminum. I need to connect one #12 wire to each of the #14s (so two wires per connector). What's the right connector to use for this? <Q> That must be one powerful fan to require a dedicated 20 amp line. <S> WOW. <S> The silver wire you see is probably a tinned copper wire. <S> (solder on the end of a stranded copper wire). <S> To connect a 12 and 14 AWG set of wires together, you should use a yellow wirenut. <S> If in fact the tinned conductor is smaller than a 14 AWG, you could use an orange wirenut. <S> If you look on the package of wirenuts, it will give you a chart of the number and size of conductors the specific color wirenut will work with. <A> You can also use whichever push-in connector makes sense for your application. <S> I haven't had as good luck using them with stranded wire, but they are "allowed" and they do work. <S> More information is available at http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=in-sure&div=0&l1=push-in <A> Just twist the stranded wire clockwise to give it some solidness and push in same as solid. <S> Technique and use described here on Ideal web site. <S> http://www.idealind.com/media/pdfs/products/brochures/p-2854_in-sure_brochure.pdf <S> Makes it very simple and quick.
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You can properly use the push in connectors, from Ideal, if you are careful.
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Could a disconnected ground wire in the breaker box have caused any problems? A major home improvement company renovated the outside of our home. During the process the subcontractor jacked into our breaker box without permission and without the use of an electrician. After complaining we finally hired an electrician to review the breaker box and discovered the ground wire had been removed from the ground for almost a 12 week period. My question is what potential harm could of come of this event? <Q> If you have not experienced any problems with equipment and have not gotten any shocks, then you dodged a bullet. <S> Just glad you found the problem before anybody got hurt. <S> I'm sure no damage to appliances. <A> I don't think you were in any immediate danger. <S> Decades ago, houses didn't have grounding like we have today (if any at all), and while there were definitely some incidents, most people managed to live their lives just fine. <S> You'll still find old houses in North America that are not properly grounded, and you can only imagine what third world countries are like. <S> That being said, it is a safety feature so you were at higher risk of electrocution should a short or fault have occurred. <S> If no harm came of it and no equipment was damaged, there are no lingering effects of the missing ground assuming it was properly corrected. <A> I assume you have neighbors that share the same transformer. <S> I would also assume that they have their main panels properly grounded. <S> That would mean that your neutral was grounded. <S> Just not as close as it should have been. <S> I also assume that your neutral, and ground wires were still connected together in your main panel. <S> If you loaded up on only one half of your panel, the voltage on your neutral would have not been zero. <S> The amount voltage would have been considered low-voltage. <S> ( The highest it could go is half of the voltage of one leg. <S> Which would require that you had a short between that leg and neutral, that wasn't through a breaker. ) <S> So that means you could have gotten a shock, but it probably wouldn't have been life-threatening.
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No harm, no foul, sorta.
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Is it possible to paint concrete pavers I have a large paved area that I would like to replace with lawn. My plan is to use some of the pavers as a border. They're plain concrete pavers (450x450mm) that look like this except about 20 years old: I was thinking about painting them a nice cream colour. Has anyone ever done anything like this? Will the colour fade or chip? Is there anything I should know about painting ground cover? <Q> Rather than using paint, look at some of the dozens of dry concrete dyes. <S> Acid wash is very effective. <S> Check out this web site: <S> http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/walkways/existingdecorativeconcretewalkways.html <S> There are also several other sites you can look at including Lowes, HD, and Sherwin Williams. <S> Concrete floor paints are easy and quick, but may require more maintenance and refinishing over time as compared to a stains. <S> If your area is small and not subject to lots of traffic, paint may be a good choice. <A> It turns out they make special paving paint. <S> It's hard wearing and scuff resistant. <S> Here is an example . <S> Here is a video on applying paving paint. <S> The really import part is cleaning your pavers. <S> The video goes into great detail about using etching solution to clean the concrete before painting. <S> They also clean with sugar soap. <A> A friend gave me 18" pavers but not enough, years ago. <S> I couldn't match them now. <S> I may go with dye, but had good luck with painting my old driveway with concrete paint. <S> I let sun bake scratch coat all summer though. <S> Heavy traffic, hot tires, no problem.
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There are several methods to color concrete after it has cured.
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Does it matter which 3-way switch I put a dimmer at on a 4-way circuit? I was working a side job today and re-wired quite a few 3 and 4-way circuits. I have a good understanding on how each work, but when I hooked up a 3-way dimmer on a 4-way circuit, the light would come on only if I had a certain switch on. Basically, I put it where I thought was at the switch leg end of the circuit. I'm only assuming this because the first 3-way is a foot away from the panel then the 4-way and finally the last 3-way. I've heard several people say to put it on the switch leg end (granted it's wired for a traditional 4-way circuit) or the switch that is not the line side. I also heard it does not matter... as long as it's obviously not in the middle. What the heck is the problem here??? <Q> Was it a standard dimmer switch, rather than a 3-way one? <S> They make all three types of on/off switches, but I've only ever seen standard and 3-way dimmers. <S> I figure the rarity of use for 4-way dimmers, combined with the rarity with which they would be purchased, make them not worth manufacturing. <S> Anyway, in a 4-way circuit (or more-way), you can replace either 3-way on/off switch ( <S> which will either be the first or last switch) with a 3-way dimmer. <S> But it must be a 3-way dimmer, not a basic dimmer. <S> I refer you to some excellent diagrams on wikipedia to see how multi-way circuits work. <S> Note the difference between how a 3-way and 4-way switch work. <S> If you can find a 4-way dimmer switch, you could replace any 4-way switch in a multi-way circuit with it. <S> Otherwise, it's either got to be the first or last switch. <A> Let's get our lingo straight. <S> In a 4-way switch network, there are 3 switches: 1) <S> Line end <S> 3-way switch 2) <S> middle of network 4-way switch 3) <S> load end 3-way switch <S> If you want to install a dimmer, I'd buy a Lutron 3-way dimmer at a compatible wattage for the load. <S> Identify which of the 3 switches is at the Line end. <S> The common lug on this Line End switch remains hot (120 VAC) when you toggle its switch. <S> This Line End 3-way is the one you replace with the 3-way dimmer. <S> Sounds like you tried to install the dimmer at the Load End. <S> As you describe, the switch on the dimmer was not sufficient to toggle the load state. <S> That's <S> because the Line voltage coming to it is conditional on the first two switch settings. <A> Here is how three way and four way switches should be wired: For deeper understanding, here is what it looks like schematically: And here are specifics about wire marking and the different types of romex used:
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When replacing an on/off switch with a dimmer switch, you must make sure the type of switch (standard, 3-way, 4-way) matches.
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Appropriate tool to remove wires in push wire I have several switches that have the push wire in the back and I'm going to replace each one with new ones. However, nearly all of them are using the push wire technique and its deep. I have on a set of these , but apparently, they don't go deep enough. Any technique I might be missing in trying to remove the wires? <Q> I use one of the flat blade screwdrivers from this tool set from General. <S> This is available from many better hardware stores or directly from the General Web Site . <S> I have found that the flat ends on these are formed much longer and the poke down into the slot on the back of the outlet much better. <S> The flats on the type of screw driver bits that you pictured generally get thicker within a much shorter length. <S> This will produce much more reliable connections. <S> Another thing to watch for is to place the wire hook under the screw head so that the end of the hook goes around the screw in the same direction that you use to tighten the screws. <A> I used a set of eyeglass repair screw drivers. <A> I use a nail. <S> A finishing nail. <S> It is a little pry bar against the spring action. <S> The slot is made for it. <S> If you stick something in it you will get it.
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When you replace the outlets / switches with new ones do use the screws instead of the poke in wire holes.
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How do I fix a Bostitch nail gun that is jammed? I have a Bostitch nail gun (pneumatic) and it has been working fine all day until about 30 minutes ago. I went to nail in a piece of molding, and when I pulled the trigger I heard air feed into nozzle, but not the normal noise I hear when a nail is actually driven into the wood. I first checked to make sure I wasn't out of nails and I had a full stack of them. I then disconnected the gun from the air supply line and took the nozzle off. This is what I found: Every now and again I get a misfire when it tries to fire two nails at the same time. In these situations, I disassemble the nozzle like I did here and get the nails out. When I took the nozzle apart this time, I noticed that the "hammer" (the thing metal piece that drives the nails in) was not in its correct position. Usually, the hammer is fully extended, taking up the entire length of the nozzle that you see above. However, in the photo, you see that the hammer is stuck in the "ready to fire" position and will not come out. I'm not sure if that's the problem (that the hammer is stuck inside the gun), or if something else is going on, but I've spent almost an hour looking at this and am at wit's end. Any gear gurus out there see what the problem is? Is there a set of things I should be looking for to render a diagnosis? <Q> Oiling your gun on regular intervals is important. <S> In your case, if the pin is stuck, try the following. <S> Put several drops of oil directly on the pin and slide channel. <S> Remove all nails, reassemble the nose and see if the gun will dry fire against a scrap piece of wood. <S> the gun should fire and leave a dent from the push rod in your wood if it is working. <S> If the gun still does not fire, then the pin may be damaged or bent. <S> At this point the upper air chamber will have to be removed and the pin assembly removed/replaced. <S> Rebuilding air guns is not real difficult and parts for a Bostich are readily available. <S> You problem may be a worn or damaged O-ring in the compressor section. <S> Rebuild kits for the upper end have got to be replaced often, especially if they have not been oiled regularly of after long periods of storage. <S> Parts are cheap. <S> Some folks at the tool dept of Lowes or HD could be helpful guiding you. <S> In my area, Bostich often have promotion displays at the vendors where they will do maintenance and install rehab kits at no charge with the purchase of a case of nails. <S> Both of my framers, Bostich 88W's, have been rebuild at least 4 times for free during these promotions. <A> Seems like the allen wrench fittings up top are special sizes, as my Dewalt tool did not have the right measurement to get a tight grip on the heads. <S> I ended up cranking the compressor to about 120 PSI, depressing the head, then ejecting the stuck brad out by pure force of more air. <S> Worked great! <A> This happened to me. <S> The nails got stuck, and it didn't sound right, so I pulled the safety cover and the driver guide cover. <S> I removed a jammed nail twice. <S> I finally decided to try a sleeve of nails from another package, and it all worked. <A> I mistakenly loaded 18 ga nails into a 16 ga gun. <S> It did the same thing you described by trying to shoot two nails at once. <S> When the 16's were loaded, it worked flawlessly.
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If you have a good lumber yard that sells Bostich tools, they often stock the parts and will be helpful in helping you fix your tool. Make sure the nails are the proper gauge for the gun.
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Is it likely that there is lead in the varnish of my old 1930's hardwood floor? I have recently uncovered an old (and presumably original circa 1930) hardwood floor in the hallway of my house. Over the past couple of weeks I have been cleaning and sanding it in order to re-varnish (or most likely wax) it. I have not been taking any special precautions about when sanding the floor, over and above using a face mask, gloves. It was my understanding that old paint used to have lead in it, but that old varnish didn't. Is this the case? Is it likely that there is lead in the varnish of my old 1930's hardwood floor? <Q> This page from Stanford University states: <S> Presume all paints and varnishes applied before 1980 contain lead including finishes on old toys, furniture and playground equipment. <S> Therefore you should take precautions when removing the old material. <S> However, most of the risk from lead is due to the long term exposure to the paint, so the precautions you have been taking should be adequate. <A> Clear varnish does not contain pigments, and so it won't have any lead-based dyes. <S> However, additives called "drying agents" are used in oil-based coatings such as varnish to accelerate the polymerization of the oil. <S> One such agent that has historically been used is lead acetate. <S> Lead compounds have been used for oil drying as far back as the 1800's, through to 1970-something, and for centuries it has been known by artists that paint with lead-based pigments dries faster than the base without pigments. <S> Here is a paper that gives moreinformation as well as historic notes about oil drying agents: http://www.si.edu/mci/downloads/articles/tusoma_paper.pdf <A> Home Depot and the like sell lead testing kits very cheaply (e.g. $10). <S> You'll want to take a utility knife and cut through and expose all the layers down to the bare wood to test. <S> That's the only way to answer. <S> Mikes's advice is very good. <S> Don't take any chances with kids and pregnant women. <A> My understanding is that the varnish or shellac did not contain lead. <S> Also any sanding that was done during the original painting. <S> That said you can buy a home test kit <S> but you will only be getting a small sample. <S> I would say to treat it as if it has lead. <S> Isolate the rest of the house from the work area. <S> Clean with a damp rag to get a much dust as possible. <S> When the ssanding is finished clean the entire area,walls, ceilings, doors, windows etc. <S> The dust will go everywhere.
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How ever some of the stains that were used did contain lead. Clean the area everyday to avoid tracking it through the house. Get a HEPA bag for your shop vac (available at the big box stores) to contain the dust. Keep small children and pregnant woomen out of the work area.
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How large an area is needed to make a paint sprayer worth it? Clearly a paint sprayer cannot be beaten on a very large wall in an empty room when the ceiling is being painted the same as the wall. Likewise in small rooms with carpets and furniture plus lots of windows the time take to mask everything is a lot greater than the time to paint with a paint brush (or roller). I have never used a paint sprayer, what size area do I need to make it worthwhile? <Q> This is one of those questions that really doesn't have a good answer. <S> I will comment on a couple of aspects. <S> A good quality airless sprayer is expensive. <S> Even a basic model can cost $300 or more. <S> A good pro model is $500 plus. <S> The small paint in the head types are iffy at best and don't do a good job if tilted at any severe angle, like when doing ceilings. <S> They are also very loud, vibrate a lot in your hand and are fatiguing to use. <S> They typically only hold a pint to a quart of paint. <S> A good high pressure airless sprayer takes paint directly from the can 1 or 5 gal, and has hoses, 25ft to 50ft to the spray head. <S> They also have interchangeable nozzles for different types of paints and stains and to control spray width. <S> You may consider renting if the job is large enough. <S> Keep in mind, even though you can spray out a room or even do a whole house very fast with a sprayer, you still should over brush or roll to get a good finish. <S> It does take some practice to get the feel of using a sprayer. <S> I use one often and absolutely love it. <S> I always have a second person to over roll immediately while the paint or primer is wet. <S> It is extremely effective shooting PVA primer on new sheetrock before trim and floor coverings are are installed. <A> There's no hard-and-fast rule. <S> It's merely a break-even point where the extra preparation and cleanup time exceeds the time saved by the device. <S> And of course the more skilled you are, the less your prep and cleanup time are. <S> For someone who has never used one, I'd guess that the break-even point is something like this: If you're painting entire rooms, including the ceilings, then use a sprayer to paint all the ceilings at once, with no need to worry about overspray at the edges. <S> Then brush/roll the walls. <S> If you're just painting the walls, just brush/roll them. <S> Rolling is really pretty fast. <A> Well, I'm new here <S> and I'm just waiting around a bit to see if I get an answer on a question I just posted. <S> In the meantime I’ve just been checking things out a bit and found this question. <S> I’ve also just sprayed the interior of my home <S> and it was the first time I ever used a sprayer. <S> My home is an extremely extensive remodel which I am doing as an owner builder. <S> That’s me. <S> Are you buying one? <S> I rented one. <S> 200 bucks a day. <S> I sprayed all of my Tasmanian Oak ceilings gloss white in one day. <S> The WHOLE house, two cotes plus primed the walls of the whole house. <S> I ran into a little trouble getting an extension wand for my higher ceilings so had to get it one more time for a couple of hours to finish the next day. <S> This meant I had it for another day for two hours work which included dry time. <S> I have a shipping container on my land with the kitchen and pre-hung doors being stored in it <S> and I thought what the hell, I pulled out all of the doors (12), took them off the hinges and sprayed them all in about ten minutes once I set them up for spraying. <S> I let them dry and hit them with a second coat. <S> That took another ten minutes. <S> I would have NO PROBLEM renting it again for just 20 minutes of door spraying. <S> Well worth every penny. <S> They look like they were factory sprayed. <S> So I guess what I’m saying is it all depends on the job. <S> If you do it just watch a couple youtube videos just for technique first. <S> That takes care of a big learning curve. <S> Good luck.
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If you're painting the exterior of a house, use a sprayer to do the field (The siding or brick or whatever makes up the bulk of the house) then brush paint the trim. If you are only doing a few rooms, I doubt it would be worth the investment to purchase one.
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How proud can a toilet flange sit above the floor? Related to How do I replace this cast iron toilet flange? I've removed the cast iron and am dry fitting the replacement parts. I used a 4" - 3" reducing coupling, 3" pvc and a 3" 90 to line up where the flange needs to go. Problem: With the 90 in place, the flange is going to sit about 3/4" proud of the subfloor. (The final floor will be a fiberglass material that compresses so I'm not really counting it) Can I create a reinforcing support for the flange to sit on to get solid support, and if it sits that proud, will it affect the toilet? Or do I need to figure some way to lower the flange? The latter would be very difficult given the very tight space I'm in. Update 5 Nov 2012 I found a 3" flange with a 45 degree bend and coupled it to another 45 bend to get what will be a perfect fit once the 1/4" ply (underlayment) and the fiberglass sheet flooring are installed. The flange is actually above the subfloor by 1/4 inch, sitting on waterproof shims on all sides. <Q> There isn't much allowance for raised flanges in most US toilets I've seen. <S> The critical feature is how much higher the under toilet "ceiling" is than the bottom perimeter base that sits on the finished floor. <S> Since this dimension is intended to work with a standard wax ring, there's little chance a 3/4" protrusion will work. <S> Not only do you need physical clearance between the flange and the "ceiling", there also must be room for the wax sealing ring. <S> The other potential conflict is the outlet horn and how it fits into the small bevel of the flange fitting. <S> Again, there needs to be room for the wax to fill this gap. <S> You do not want any direct physical contact between the flange and horn. <S> Simply supporting the flange is not enough. <S> The perimeter base must be fully supported. <S> If you try to install the toilet as things are, the toilet will be balanced on the wax ring. <S> It will wobble every time it is sat upon, eventually forcing all the wax out until the "ceiling" is bearing directly in the flange. <S> While the wobble will diminish at this point, it will still wobble. <S> The seal would obviously be compromised. <S> Whatever you do, the perimeter base must be solidly supported. <S> Another solution would be to raise the floor, which I imagine would be undesirable. <S> The only other possible solution would be to raise the support of only the toilet base, such as setting it on a grout bed. <S> Depending on the nature of your flooring and the actual final thickness of the grout, this may not be too bad a solution. <S> You would need to spend enough time finishing the exposed grout around the toilet base so that it is smooth and easy to clean. <A> I can think of two other solutions depending on the whole picture: 1 - What kind of PVC 90 are you using to get from horizontal to vertical? <S> If you are using a regular sweep 90 you might be able to switch to a street sweep 90 combined with a different flange that would glue to the outside of the 90. <S> This may allow you to push the flange down farther to make up some room, as long as you are still gluing to a straight section before the curve. <S> 2 <S> - If this is a small half-bath with no tub or shower to deal with you may be able to lay another layer of plywood down to raise the floor level. <S> This would work best if you are starting level with the adjoining room and adding another half-inch or so. <S> A small difference in floor height can be hidden with a transition plate and you will never notice it. <S> I did this in my master bath since I had the whole thing gutted and switched from 3/8 to 3/4 ply to add stiffness to the floor. <A> This will depend on several things: <S> How are you securing your toilet, are you bedding in cement which will raise the pan off the floor anyway, or are you using a flexible sealant (silicon) and pan screws which will have the pan flush on the floor <S> Does the pan you intend on installing have the outlet pipe recessed eg. <S> if you turn the toilet pan upside down and put a level across it is the outlet below the walls of the pan and <S> if so how much? <S> I am unfamiliar with the brands of pan installed in America but over here they are all slightly recessed and the flange needs to be about 25mm/1" above finished floor level anyway to get a good seal on the toilet. <S> http://imgc.classistatic.com/cps/blnc/120715/084r1/97145fg_20.jpeg <S> A <S> unconcealed s-trap pan <S> http://www.mccannsplumbing.com.au/files/2137.jpg <S> A consealed s-trap pan Also don't forget is the fiberglass you are putting in finished floor or are you putting something else on top of it that will bring up the finished floor level? <S> Forgot to mention could you use a male to female bend which the flange will sit into and might gain you the amount that you need?
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The obvious solution is lower the flange, though very difficult in your case.
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What are the implications of driving a drywall screw too far into the sheet? I'm not gonna lie. The early stages of my very first home improvement project completely smacks of novice DIY'er. I did so many things wrong that I've since learned from, but the first mistakes are still glaringly obvious, one of which being how I drove screws too far into drywall. Some do more than break the paper and actually sink into the sheet by as much as 1/8". I've read that this can keep the wall from being stable. Will I need to pull all these sunken screws out and drive new ones in over an inch or so? The fact that I have a double layer of type x drywall hanging -- suspended, actually -- like this makes me wonder if I need to tear it all down and do it right this time. <Q> The paper is a key part of the drywall structure. <S> Just as when you cut the paper on the drywall it's easy to snap, when you screw past the paper it's easy to blow out the back. <S> Plaster and paper are a lot like concrete and rebar, the plaster based core of drywall resists compression, while the paper resists tension. <S> It's not essential to pull the old screws, the damage has already been done and will be mudded over. <S> But you should add a second screw a few inches away anywhere you went too deep. <S> This is a critical repair for drywall on the ceiling, and a very good idea for drywall mounted on the wall. <S> I wouldn't go through any added effort to tear down the drywall, since it's still perfectly good. <S> Just add the extra screws and be happy you caught the problem before experiencing a collapse. <S> Update: From your new photos <S> , those screws are too deep. <S> Once the paper has been torn, you lose strength at that screw location. <S> You should never be able to see plaster around the screw head, but you also should never be able to run a flat edge over the drywall and feel the screw head above the drywall. <S> It's a fine line to walk, but a professional drywaller should be able to walk it with ease (we train amateurs to do this in under a hour). <S> Also, from those photos, it doesn't appear that the installers are using a drywall bit (we refer to them as mushroom bits because of their shape). <S> They leave a distinct ring around each screw, making it easy to countersink the proper depth, and preventing you from going deeper (the bit will cam out when it hits the paper). <A> Old thread I know,but it still shows up in results <S> , so I thought this image might prove useful to anyone new to drywall... <A> You can put another one in nearby if you're worried but an occasional one like this shouldn't cause any issues. <S> It's more work after if you're using "mud" (like most non-professionals) because it shrinks as it dries and thus needs more applications to get a final smooth finish. <S> Drywall is fairly heavy and if you're driving regular screws through a previous layer before they bite into the wood behind then <S> it's possible the screws are not sunk deep enough to properly hold the weight.
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If you drive the screw so far that it cracks the drywall then you've weakened the hold.
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Why does my radiator leak if it's not fully opened or closed? I have a hot water (or steam?) radiator that leaks water unless it's completely open or closed. The side has a valve that can be turned to open or shut the connecting pipe. The other side has a steam vent. If I fully open the valve, everything works properly, but it gives off way too much heat. If I open the valve just a tiny bit, it's still too hot, but bearable. However, it will leak from the steam vent (enough to pool up before it can evaporate). I told the super of my apartment about it, hoping it could be fixed, but he said just to leave it wide open or shut it off. I've determined I have a single pipe, steam radiator, with a steam vent on the side opposite the heat pipe. I read bleeding could help, but my radiator does not have a bleed valve, so I turned it off and removed the steam vent instead. Some water seeped out. Then I turned it on, and lots of water shot out. Convinced this was a steam radiator, I let this continue until it seemed less like warm water and more like scalding hot steam instantly turning to water. When that happened I turn it off. About two and a half jars worth of water shot out. Quarter for scale. I then replaced steam valve and turned the radiator back on, and I'm now waiting to see if it will still leak. However, this did not help at all. <Q> I'm afraid your super is right. <S> The supply valve must either be fully open or fully closed. <S> If it is partially open, condensate cannot properly drain back to the boiler. <S> It will collect in your radiator instead. <S> How much heat is put out is regulated by the size of the vent valve. <A> This is pretty common with globe valves because the plug does not completely seal unless it is fully open or fully closed. <S> If there is a packing nut you can try tightening it to see if this stops the leak but otherwise your best bet is to replace the valve with a ball valve (turns 90 degrees to fully open or close) as these are more reliable and don't exhibit this problem. <A> I've determined I have a single pipe, steam radiator, with a steam vent on the side opposite the heat pipe. <S> In this case, the valve is a shut-off only valve, not a system to regulate with. <S> Partially closing it will limit the removal of condensate and then you'll have built-up water. <S> It should always be left open. <S> If I fully open the valve, everything works properly, but it gives off way too much heat. <S> Abou the valve and regulation <S> : regulation is on the other side. <S> The "steam vent" you mentioned on the other side of the radiator <S> is actually an air vent. <S> This is what controls the proportionate amount of steam entering your radiator from the system, and thus how much heat your radiator gives off. <S> You didn't mention an adjustment knob, so what you have is a fixed-size regulator that is too large. <S> New adjustable vents can be had for ~$10. <S> Replace your current vent with one of these and adjust it as needed until the radiator keeps you comfortable. <S> I read bleeding could help, but my radiator does not have a bleed valve, so I turned it off and removed the steam vent instead. <S> This is a term related to hot water heaters. <S> Over time, they build up air in the top of the radiator that needs to be let out until water flows again. <S> A steam radiator will only provide heat if it properly venting air ("bleeding") and that is automatically done through the air vent which allows flow until steam hits it. <S> ... <S> I removed the steam vent instead. <S> Some water seeped out. <S> Then I turned it on, and lots of water shot out. <S> Convinced this was a steam radiator <S> , I let this continue until it seemed less like warm water and more like scalding hot steam instantly turning to water. <S> When that happened I turn it off. <S> Don't do that. <S> Scalding hot steam scalds.
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If the boiler works by central control, meaning the steam goes on and off for the whole building to regulate heat, you can regulate the heat put out by the radiator by getting a thermostatically controlled one pipe steam radiator vent valve, or simply getting a smaller vent valve.
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When does an under the sink P-Trap assembly need venting? In the realm of second homeowner woes, I had a P-Trap assembly under the bathroom sink. It was a straight connection to the pipe connected to the main sewer line. (least I think that was the case). It was not vented and it worked just fine. But after dealing with a clog the corroded bottom of the P-Trap (which was made of chrome plated metal) broke and left a 1/2 inch long hole in it. Suffice it to say, I had to replace the entire assembly. As with most projects, more pieces needs replacing. I replaced the sink flange and tail pipe and the P-Trap now made of plastic. As you can see in the image above that I used the original back plastic pipe leading down the wall. When water drains now it backs up and eventually gurgles. Also when it backs up it leaks where the tail pipe and the P-Trap meet. My research tells me this is because this assembly is not properly vented . Is this true? I ask only because the former assembly did not have venting problems. Is it possible that the former parts were venting through bad seals? When does an under the sink P-Trap assembly need venting? <Q> All traps need venting in all cases. <S> There's also all sorts of examples where someone thought they were providing venting, but done in such a way that clearing the water seal was still a possibility. <S> Some of these methods even used to be accepted practice, such as S traps. <S> There's still several appropriate ways to achieve proper venting. <S> For example, in island sink situations, a loop or foot vent is acceptable. <S> It's hard to say why the previous installation worked without venting. <S> For sure, one way or another, the siphon action was disturbed by the entrance of air somehow, either from oversized pipe or leaking fittings. <S> Regardless, where do you go from here? <S> The downward facing ell in wall needs to be replaced with a sanitary tee for starters. <S> The top of the new tee needs to tie into a vent somewhere, without travelling downwards. <S> Is there a vent pipe nearby, such as from a toilet or shower? <S> Or a pipe could perhaps be extended up into the attic, where it should be much easier to make a run to a vent pipe? <S> If all that sounds like too much, get a mechanical vent such as jberger suggested. <S> They are not accepted by many codes, but they do work. <S> Just be sure it's attached to a long enough pipe so that the valve is above the flood level of the sink. <S> No doubt this all sounds like a real PITA right now. <S> Once it's all done, you can take pride and sleep well knowing you have a properly functioning and completely sanitary sink drainage. <A> Every sink needs a sink vent. <S> A plumbing fixture like a sink can not function properly without a sink vent. <S> When a drain pipe drains it creates a negative pressure in the sink drain; the negative pressure will pull the water out of the p-trap of the sink that's draining and sewer <S> gases can enter your home if a sink vent is not installed. <S> There are several different ways in which to install a sink vent at home even if you want to install a sink vent on an existing sink. <S> A sink needs a vent because the pressure put on the drain pipe when water flows down the drain pipe needs to equalize. <S> The air needs to escape the drain pipe in order for the sink to vent. <S> The best way to think about a sink vent is if you were to hold a pop bottle upside down and dump it out, it glugs out. <S> Add a hole to the top of the bottle and it pours out, that is a sink vent. <A> cut the tailpiece about 1" to help with slope toward drain and add a tee with a pro vent. <S> Fit check it on 1 and 1/2" pvc about 2' long and slide it up inside the wall... <S> you may have to cut the pvc down... <S> once you get the correct fit glue it together.
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Without a vent, the water seal in the trap gets sucked out and sewer gases can enter the room.
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Lights lowering in the kitchen when turning on microwave oven: symptom of an unstable electric environment? Is it normal for my kitchen lights to lower their intensity for a second when I'm starting my microwave oven? Is it a symptom of a bad/particularly unstable power environment? The reason I am asking is because I have had episodic problems with my computer turning off at random times, and I have already checked the power/reset button connections to my motherboard, ensured that my power supply unit is running probably, and made sure that my computer is not overheating. Should I invest in a UPS or run further tests on my apartment's electric stability? Would an outlet tester help in any way? <Q> In the best case, this may be normal if the dimming is minor. <S> That said, you should still consider changing your wiring so that lights are not on the same circuit as outlets. <S> This is a common wiring practice to prevent lights from going out when an overloaded breaker trips. <S> The second best case is that your wiring is under capacity for your microwave and you should consider getting one or more dedicated circuits for your kitchen appliances. <S> To determine this, you'd want to check the wattage on the microwave and other devices on the same breaker and see if they are using less than 80% of that breaker's capacity. <S> The worst case is that you have a failed (or failing) neutral. <S> If that happens, you'll see voltage lower on the same circuit as the microwave, and increase on circuits that are on the other hot leg. <S> If you see the voltage increase anywhere when the microwave is running, this is a sign of a bad neutral connection between the breaker panel and the electrical service and will likely require a visit from the power company to repair. <A> It is certainly not normal. <S> The power system is unable to adapt to sudden increased demand. <S> A typical hardware store outlet tester will probably not help. <S> They only identify grossly bad wiring, such as reversed wires, open grounds, etc. <S> The only wiring that should be in common with the lights and micro is a sub or main panel. <S> If they are on the same circuit, they shouldn't be. <S> All your panels, as well as devices on the affected circuits, should be inspected for any poor wiring installation. <S> I had a similar problem. <S> I went over my circuits, panel, and service entrance carefully, even redoing some connections though they appeared fine. <S> Never found anything wrong. <S> Eventually, the power company replaced the cable supplying our neighborhood and the problem went away. <S> I cannot imagine how a home appliance could have any effect on a 14.4kv supply, but the problem may not be you. <S> If your wiring checks out, sounds like a UPS would be a good idea. <S> Also ensure any other important electronics are on good quality surge suppressors. <A> An outlet tester or even the low cost type outlet voltage/power meters such as the "Kill-A-Watt" meter are unlikely to be able to show you if short duration surges are occurring on your power mains. <S> The reason is that such devices sample the line at rates slower than the time that a surge event can take to happen. <S> If there is a question about whether you have a sagging voltage problem (brown out) that lasts for seconds then a "Kill-A-Watt" type meter in voltage reading mode could help you to assess the situation. <S> If you have situations where your computer is experiencing hang up problems it is unlikely that this is caused by momentary dips in the power line voltage. <S> The reason is that virtually all computer gear these days use power supplies that work over a wide range of AC input voltages. <S> Many even work over a range wide enough to cover the range of both the common 120VAC and 220VAC systems used throughout the world. <S> The computer is much more likely to be responding to very high voltage spikes on your apartment power mains. <S> Such spikes are caused by the switching on and off of motors, fans, pumps and heater systems. <S> You can help to prevent problems with the computer through the use of a suitable power line filter. <S> You can purchase power line filter devices that can help with this problem. <S> Common medium cost UPS systems often include reasonable quality spike filters that can deal with these EMI and RFI interference issues. <S> The UPS feature to keep your computer going for a short time due to a power outage would not likely be applicable to your current situation but may be a feature that you want to invest in for the future. <A> If the outlet that microwave is plugged into shares the branch circuit with the lights, then it's perfectly normal for the light to dim when the appliance comes on. <S> If not, then theres definitely a problem. <S> If your house is pretty old, I would invest some time into checking all outlets/wiring for signs of arcing/burning.
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To detect this, you'd want a voltage tester that's designed to measure household AC voltage and check the voltage at multiple outlets when the microwave is running vs off.
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Should I install floating solid bamboo flooring? I have been looking at flooring choices for my new home. The house currently has carpeting on the upper story and a cheap laminate floor on the ground floor. I'm planning on replacing both. I've been very interested in stranded solid bamboo flooring, due to the environmental advantages of bamboo, the hardness of the stranded product, and the style. Many of the floors I have been looking at can be installed either with glue, nails, or as a floating "click and lock". The floating installation is obviously less expensive since there is less labor involved. So what would be the benefits and downsides of choosing a floating installation instead of nailed? <Q> In general, floating surfaces can be louder when you walk on them. <S> This is more noticable on subflooring that is rough or uneven. <S> The sound can be clicking/slapping/hollow sounds. <S> Depending on the underlayment, the floor can feel springier than glued or nailed flooring. <S> I recommend having an installer do glue-down on concrete subfloor, or nail-down on a raised foundation. <S> The solid feel and less sound when walking on it is worth the extra installation dollars, in my opinion. <A> Put in laminate flooring in my house back in april. <S> we debated the same thing. <S> We ended up going with the floating type for a few reasons. <S> cost was cheaper, install was simpler, and still gave us the desired result. <S> we really haven't noticed any issues with the sound from walking on the floor, apart from the normal difference between carpet and a solid wood surface. <S> We opted for a newer laminate that is also waterproof, as we have young kids that like to spill. <S> so now a spill wont do damage to the flooring unless its left for more than 24 hours (never going to happen). <S> Overall it really comes down to your preference and budget. <S> in the end the floating is mainly easier to work with/install. <A> Benefits are: cost (less expensive) easier to install (can = less cost if labor costs are involved) easier to remove (in case the future owner hates it <S> and/or you need to make repairs) <S> uses less finished wood (arguably more 'green' though with bamboo <S> , it's already fairly green to begin with) <S> Downsides: <S> the finished surface is thinner, so you can't refinish the floor as much as you can with solid wood being thinner, you may have a different 'feel' underfoot.
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If you are concerned more about the sound, Lumber Liquidators has a thick, sound resistant underlayment you can use instead of the standard.
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How do I make a Liquid-level-indicator for an overhead sintex water tank I have a 5000 ltr overhead tank atop a 20 meter tower. I wish to make a liquid level indicator, mechanical type, which would indicate to me the liquid level therein the tank, as the tank is made of opaque material. The indication to be at the foot of the water tower orcloser outside my kitchen window for viewing convenience from within my house. <Q> Probably the simplest indicator would be to have a float that raises or lowers a rod of some kind. <S> In this setup a float is attached to a vertical rod that goes through the ceiling of the tank. <S> The rod then angles horizontally to the right to the side of the tank, then down vertically towards the ground. <S> You would then build an indicator with lines painted for every unit of height of water in the tank. <S> As the water level raises the float goes up, lifting the rod assembly, and as water us used the whole assembly drops. <S> The other mechanical way I can think of would be to use water pressure to indicate the amount of water in the tank. <S> Assuming this is <S> gravity fed you could install a pressure gauge on the main water feed and then calibrate the pressure levels with the water levels. <S> There are other mechanical ways to do this, however if it were me I'd go with an electronic solution of some kind rather than a mechanical one. <S> You could install a low power (even solar powered) electronic system with some LEDs to show your water levels. <A> Install a small pulley near the top edge of the tank. <S> String a cord through the pulley and attach it to a float that is in the tank. <S> On the other side of the cord connect to a small weighted object that serves a highly visible pointer that slides up and down in front of a vertical scale that you mount to the leg of your water tower. <S> You could add a eye bolt near the top of the scale to guide the cord and keep it in position when there is some wind activity. <S> The pointer at the lowest position indicates a full tank. <A> The float and counterweight are in the tank attached to pulleys. <S> the indicator is attached to the counterweight as well and helps to balance the weights. <S> From the diagram you can complete the project. <S> Some water must be added to the float so as to balance the weight of the counterweight. <S> This is trial and error until you get it right. <A> I would simply cut and epoxy a window into the tank.... or, even easier, attach a mirror to the top.
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You could even install a webcam in the tank itself and measure water levels based on lines painted on the inside.
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How to add another network cable? I am buying a house and it has cat-5 cable going to all the rooms. However, it has an RJ-11 plug on it. I'd like to leave that in place and run an additional one or two cat-6 cables. How can I do this without tearing out the drywall? Currently, all the cables terminate in a patch panel in the garage. This is a two story house, and many of the sockets are on the first floor. I'm looking specifically for gigabit ethernet because I will use it. (Backups, network installs, cross-network file sharing, etc) <Q> If you just want to extend your network you can use your existing electrical system. <S> This is called power line ethernet <S> You get various version- <S> The simplest being point to point. <S> and more complicated ones that allow for mulitplexing/switching across several units like the one in the image below. <S> And you can get very advanced and slick ones called power line <S> sockets <S> that are switch traffic across your whole house with these stylish wall plates... <S> Speeds vary from products but usually start at 55mbs (55megabits <S> = 5mega bytes per second) <S> and I have seen speeds reaching up to 500mbs (50megabytes per second) <S> Cable is ALWAYS allot more reliable especially if you want to use it for you home multimedia systems, like streaming HD movies from a NAS, playing world of warcraft with ultra low latency so you don't get owned by a noob because of lag. <S> Wireless is good for watching youtube on your smartphone, placing orders from your fridge or letting your guests leach some of your bandwidth. <S> (Trust me- <S> I had Wirless N on my media centre <S> that was 3 meteres above- <S> put in a 100mb cable <S> and now i can watch movies without stress) <S> Obviously running LAN cable is the cheapest option - I would suggest using some cable conduit. <S> You get various sizes and shapes - and you paint over plain ones if you want to camouflage them into your wall. <S> But be careful not to land up with something like this.. it is easy. <S> Some technical benchmarking and limitations <S> Some more reviews on the netgear 500mbs reviews <A> You could try to use the existing cable to pull the two cables through, but there are limitations on that. <S> The holes may not be big enough for two cables, there could be snags on other cables, pipes, bends, etc. <S> The risk is that you could end up pulling a good cable halfway out and then not be able to get it back in place. <S> I would suggest that trying to run wired cables to every room is a load of work for little return. <S> Also, that in a house cat6 is excessive, I highly doubt you'll ever need more than cat5e, and it is cheaper. <S> I would recommend that instead of trying to run loads of extra cables that you install a good wireless network system (use WPA2, not WEP or WPA), and get inexpensive 4 or 6 port switches for those rooms and areas that need extra wired connections. <A> Unless it's been run in conduit, it's not going to happen. <S> Even with conduit it may be troublesome. <S> Something simple you can do however is run two connections down the same wire bundle. <S> Ethernet uses two pairs of wire (one transmit, one receive) but there are four pairs in cat5 cable. <S> Thus, you can split this out to two RJ45 jacks on the far end and do similar in the patch-panel. <S> It's not cat6 <S> but it is a lot fewer headaches. <A> You need a RJ45 splitter. <S> In a Cat5e cable, there are 8 wires or 4 pairs. <S> In a 10mbit network, 2 pairs are used. <S> In an 100mbit network, all 4 pairs are used <S> The difference between Cat5e and Cat6 is how many twists in any given pair of wires there are and the distance a data signal can be transmitted before degradation occurs and fancy equipment is needed to repeat the signal (a repeater). <S> Bends, even 90degrees do NOT effect the transmission of the signal. <S> Bending a solid core wire at a given point in the line will eventually weaken the wire and possibly cause it to physically break if you bend it back and forth multiple times (100s), but a 90 degree bend in a Cat5e or Cat6 wire will not show a loss of data transmission rates. <S> Google "Cat5e Pair Splitter Adapter" - <S> There are many to choose from and if you don't mind using some networking tools and buying some jacks, you can very well make one yourself. <S> In a pinch, we've used splitters in an office setting and their a perfectly legit way to gain an extra line when running a new one and using Wifi isn't an option.
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In theory you could attach other cables to the end of the existing one and pull it through to the new place but in practice it will fail (and you'll be left with nothing).
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Whats the easiest way to fix sticky painted furniture so that it's no longer sticky? I sanded and painted a dresser with several coats of 100% acrylic paint, namely, these paints: The paint job turned out good, with one issue. After 4-6 weeks of drying, the paint is still slightly tacky. That is a problem, because when I put a significantly weighted object on top of the dresser and leave it on for a while, it 'peels' off. If I leave it for long enough, I am sure the paint will completely peel off along with the object. The reason for the tackiness could be for a variety of reasons (I probably didn't allow enough time to dry between coats, and I probably put the coats on too thick) but I am more concerned about how to fix it so that the top of the dresser is not sticky anymore. Short of restripping it and starting over, what are my options? <Q> It's called "blocking" and often happens w/latex paints - especially if the 1st coat wasn't allowed to dry fully before the second coat was applied. <S> It's not much of an issue on walls, but horizontal surfaces are a different story. <S> The ultimate solution is time - possibly a few months. <S> The inner coat's moisture is blocked from evaporating by to outer coat. <S> It will slowly wick through the surface over several weeks. <S> You may be able to speed the process by blowing warm (not hot) air across the surface for several days (hot air can cause the paint to peel). <S> This can open the pores in the paint to allow slightly more rapid evaporation, but a lot depends on what paint you used, how much moisture is trapped in the undercoat, etc. <A> I have dealt with this by adding a layer of polyurethane. <S> This will add durability as well as eliminating the tack. <S> However, if you ever want to re-paint it you'll need to scuff the urethane. <A>
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You might be able to reduce the stickiness by spreading some fine talcum powder on the surface, then lightly vacuuming it off - but TEST in an unobtrusive area, first, because if it's too sticky, you could end up with permanent, visible, dust built into your paint job. I use polyurethane (water based) in satin and it comes out perfect!
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When hanging two layers of drywall, can the first layer be hung with the facing to the studs? I am hanging a double layer of 5/8" type-x drywall with Green Glue, a soundproofing compound, sandwiched in the middle. If I hang the first layer with the face facing outward like normal and then stagger the second layer over it, i'll have about a 5" pocket where the two joined beveled edges of the first layer would recess away from the first layer. My understanding with Green Glue is that it needs to be between two rigid layers, so this 5"x8'-wide pocket would present an area where the sheets are not touching. My idea is to hang the first layer with the backing facing outward. When I hang the second sheet, the two layers will be back to back with no pockets in the middle. It may not seem like there could possibly be any issues with this, but my experiences in home improvement have taught me to ask even the most loaded questions since it's better to risk looking like a fool up front than be in a full body cast down the road. Edit: I am also aware that perhaps a pocket of dead space would probably only server to make the structure slightly more soundproofed. However, I think its best to have both flat sides facing one another to aid in the spreading out of the glue. <Q> Green Glue does stipulate to be used between rigid layers. <S> However, even the beveled edge of the drywall meets this definition. <S> The edge of the drywall is beveled so that the mud and tape when finished doesn't create a "hump" in the wall at the seam. <S> Let me preface by saying that I think the green glue installation will be just fine even against the beveled edge of the layer beneath <S> but if you still want to make sure the surfaces are smoothly mated then you should install the inner layer backwards and the front-layer correctly. <S> That is, the stud-attached layer has the beveled side facing the studs. <S> This leaves the rough edge (without bevel) facing the room. <S> Then the finish layer adhered its rough side to the wall... <S> thus the finished, beveled side faces the room. <S> On a side-note, are you also using low-density soundbard and insulating the walls between the framing members? <A> My only concern is the holding ability of the backing paper against the bugle screw heads. <S> I've never installed drywall backwards, so I have no idea if it's a problem. <S> Installed conventionally, the whole system works just right. <S> The gypsum compresses a bit, the paper deforms without breaking, yielding a reasonably strong connection. <S> Overdrive the screw just a bit, the paper breaks, the gypsum cracks, the screw holds nothing. <S> It doesn't take much to mess up the system, I've no idea what will happen backwards. <S> I honestly don't think the bevels will effect the STC at all, but if it makes you feel better, simply fill the bevels with mud. <S> You don't even need to tape it, so what if it cracks. <S> You only need a single pass, it doesn't have to look pretty. <S> I think it's worth the little bit of extra labor to use the system as it was intended. <A> How about you get straight edged drywall for the back layer <S> so you don't have to worry about the tapered edge? <A> I would not apply the first sheets of dry wall with the back side out. <S> The problem is that near the edges you will be using screws where the taping mud gap is located and you risk causing stress, cracking or screw head pull through. <S> If you put the sheets on the correct / normal way you will eliminate this problem for the first layer of the drywall. <S> Then to be perfectly honest with you it would be advisable to trowel in a layer of drywall mud into the taping mud gap before you come with the second layer installation. <A> The gap you speak of is minimal. <S> Hang your first layer with sheets vertical.... <S> then your second layer Horizontal. <S> Drywall is typically hung vertical because it provides a cleaner finished look.... <S> but you could hang in either order you choose. <S> Your goal is to stagger your joints to minimize the transmission of cracks. <S> You won't make the room any louder or lose any sound isolation because of the gap. <S> Look a resilient channel.... <S> that is essentially providing an air gap.
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If you don't mount the drywall with the beveling in the right direction (towards the room) then you will notice all the seams. This will prevent the same gapping problem on the second layer when you put screws through that layer into areas where the tape mudding gap would have been. If you are concerned with the gap just put some extra green glue along those edges.
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What's a nifty way to restrict my dog run without re-installing it? We have a "dog run" in our back yard that we hook our dogs to when they need to go out. Their harnesses hook to a lead, and then lead in turn hooks to the wheel you see in the picture below. The wheel runs along a line that is about 40 feet in length. This way, they can run around the entire back yard (pretty much) without restriction, but are still bound by the run. The problem is, one end of this run (the line you see the wheel running along) is sunk (drilled) into a tree, and my dogs always end up wrapping themselves around the tree. I've finally had it! I'm sick of having to put on my boots and tread some 50 feet out into my back yard to unhook them and unwind the lead from around the tree. The time has finally come for me to find a solution that prevents them from wrapping around the tree. I've thought about putting up some kind of fence that hooks into the tree (that way they can't wrap around it), but this tree is smack dab in the center of our lawn and anything I put up will be an eyesore for my wife. Also, this lead was a real pain to put up, so I'd like to avoid taking it down and reinstalling it at all costs. So now I'm considering putting something on the run itself; some kind of block that prevents them from getting to the tree in the first place. This would limit their run from about 40 feet to 30 feet, but I don't think that will rob them of any exercise. But if I just simply wind duck tape around the run, the first time they go running after a squirrel or something, the wheel will get lodged on the duck tape and then they'll be stuck in the center of the lawn; plus I'll have to go un-lodge them. So I ask: can any DIYers out there think of a way that I can: Attach something to my dog run that will hold resolute but not allow the wheel to get lodged or wedged on it; and Not require me to take the run down and put it back up <Q> They make clamps that you can very easily install onto the line. <S> They come in a range of sizes to fit most any line size. <S> Here is a picture of what they look like. <S> Look for Steel Cable clamps. <S> There is another type of connector that may be an alternate choice. <S> These, as pictured below, will be found in the electrical supply section of the same types of stores mentioned above. <S> They are typically made of copper and so will not rust. <S> Price will be a little higher though. <A> <A> Get or make two small identical blocks of wood, put the rope between them, and bolt them together with two bolts on opposite sides of the rope. <S> This will clamp solidly onto the rope, be easily adjustable by loosening the bolts, and present a large flat surface for the wheel to stop against without jamming. <S> You might want to round over the edge where the rope meets the wood to reduce the possibility of fraying.
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You could get a u-shaped rope clamp. You can procure these at most home supply centers and at any decent hardware store.
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Projects to Pursue while Studs are Bare? I'm stripping my small 950 sq. ft. 1950's-era home to the studs -- walls and ceiling -- so that I can install a vapor barrier and insulation in the walls and ceiling. While I have the studs available (exterior and interior walls and ceiling), what other projects are worth pursuing? I've thought of the following: Add outlets -- the home is old and doesn't have the number of outletsneeded by today's standards. Install wired security alarm system Install speaker wires for TV Block and wire for a wall-mounted TV What other projects are worth doing as long as you have access to the studs? <Q> You'll need to install hard-wired smoke alarms to meet current residential code. <S> This requires three-strand+ground wire run to the necessary locations -- one in the hallway leading to the bedrooms (carbon monoxide and smoke) and then one smoke alarm in each bedroom. <S> Seal any wire penetrations between the heated envelope of your home (such as where pipes and wires penetrate the top or bottom plate) with spray foam. <S> Remediate any insect or rotten wood or air sealing problems. <S> You might need to replace your fuse box with a modern circuit breaker box. <A> If the electrical is more than 20 years old, I'd consider rewiring everything. <S> Put in plenty of circuits (even new houses seem to suffer from a woefully limited number of distinct circuits). <S> As others have said, networking and low-voltage wiring is good. <S> However, I wouldn't go and wire up every room but instead run smurf tube to outlets and drop in a fish line. <S> Before putting up the wallboard, take photos of EVERY WALL. <S> This is so useful for both you and any future owners. <S> And then, just for fun, hide a time capsule or two in a couple of the walls. <A> Here's some things: Install <S> cat5e cabling for network connections and telephone wires to every room. <S> Run them all back to a central closet (head end). <S> Inspect all studs for rot. <S> Check all the joints and maybe add some braces if necessary <S> If you are in a hurricane or tornado-prone location install hurricane straps, providing you can reach the roof plate <A> Add a subpanel in a key location. <S> It will make it easy to add short-distance circuits in the future. <S> It will also make it possible to add a big outlet for a high-current, 240V device at that location, without running a long cable. <S> Some repair job might benefit from that in the future. <A> Many old houses have electrical wiring with out safety grounds. <S> If this is the case in your house then this should be a major incentive to replace all the electrical wiring if you need more of a reason than the fact that it is just old. <A> How about improving the fire safety of your house. <S> Seal all gaps/cracks (hvac/plumbing/electrical) between floors with fire-stop caulking <S> Install firestop blocking <S> If you have a basement and the studs are not directly against the wall, install fire block behind the top plate and vertically as required by your local code <S> (every 10' I think) <S> Already mentioned <S> but I'll include again <S> is hardwiring smoke detectors <A> In addition to things already mentioned (Cat 5E, Coax, sealing cracks, etc.), consider insulating any hot water pipes in your walls or ceilings. <S> Also, inspect any visible plumbing for signs of corrosion (especially if unlike metals are in contact).
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Install fire resistant insulation around key areas Wireless connections are fine, but wired connections are better quality Replace all your old wiring with new wiring, your old wiring will have degraded by now If you have fixtures a long distance from your hot water tank, consider installing a return loop that would allow a circulating pump to bring hot water to the fixture without waste. That way you can upgrade much easier when the time comes. Watch for dirty insulation as you pull any existing insulation out. It's so easy when you're down to studs. Inspect all your piping, make sure everything has the correct fall, replace or upgrade anything that looks like it won't stand the test of time The exact size & placement of the subpanel will be specific to your house layout.
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Is it possible to boost an electrical circuit for more current draw? In my attic I have a relatively decent electrical circuit that runs a family room with a modest entertainment system, a home office with a monster PC, and a couple of ceiling lights. I've never had any problems with it before. Recently I got a new laser printer that apparently draws a lot of current briefly when it comes out of sleep mode - enough to trip my UPS (the printer is not plugged into the UPS). I don't know if this is a dangerous situation, but it's unsettling and I'd like to fix it if possible. <Q> To directly answer your question: no you cannot "boost" a circuit. <S> Every wire has a voltage drop , and according to NEC it can't be more than 5% at the outlet. <S> Voltage drop is proportional to the length of the wire, resistance (which is dependent on the size of the wire), and current. <S> In other words, as your load goes up, so does your voltage drop. <S> If your existing wiring is just on the edge of either load or size, then the current may be going up enough that it's below the UPS threshold <S> and thus the UPS is switching to back-up power because it sees it as a brown-out. <S> If the cable is too small (typical is 14AWG for a 15A circuit, 12AWG for 20A) <S> then the only thing you can do is either increase the cable size, or run a new circuit (and really, you're not going to pull out the old cable and run bigger cable <S> , it's just as much work to run a new circuit so you might as well do that). <S> If the load is too high (eg, you're close to 15A) <S> then the only thing you can do is run a new circuit, or decrease the load. <S> This will help guide you to what is consuming too much power, and where (if you go this route) it makes sense to split the circuit up. <S> You mentioned lights; using LED or CFL bulbs may be a stop-gap to save some power, and is certainly one of the easier things you can do. <S> If it comes to it, there's ways to be creative about how to split the circuit up, without necessarily having to rip out a lot of drywall. <S> You may be able to run a new cable halfway, and then splice in and split the circuit into two, starting from a light or receptacle. <S> It's hard to be specific here without actually being in your house. <A> If the printer has Wi-Fi, you can put it anywhere. <S> just put it on a different circuit in another part of the house. <A> the device you can buy is call a "power conditioner". <S> attach user device to "power conditioner" to outlet. <S> don't buy unless it says "power/line conditioner". <S> it is not a UPS with battery backup. <S> it is not power strip with surge suppressor and protector only. <S> it got heavy duty transformer capacitors or coils to get the job done at electricity level. <S> buy with expected or require or known power level requirement. <S> don't waste time or money without knowledge for power level requirement. <S> p=iv; power watt = <S> voltage volt <S> * current amp. <S> some item use watt to advertise power level; others use "va" "volt-amp" so treat like watt etc. <S> verify before buy. <S> expensive UPS have builtin power line conditioner with power outlets with surge suppressor protection and battery backup. <S> bling bling.
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You may be able to find the wire underneath in the basement, and cut it and put in a junction box so the circuit from that point on is on the new circuit. You could start by using a Kill-a-watt or similar device to measure power consumed by your PC, printer, TV, etc.
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How do I set up drains for a flat roof? In the house I'm building, I will be using a flat roof with a parapet around it. The total area will be around 120 sq meter and the roof will be a concrete slab (at least 8 cm). What is the best way to drain it? People in Brazil don't like to use those kind of roofs so I can't get good info on the subject. I will be waterproofing it using some type of asphaltic membrane rools that are covered in alumminum foils (for protection). I'm on the starting phase of the construction, so I'm quite flexible with what I can do, but here we don't have fancy siphonic drains, mostly PVC pipes are used (100 and 150 mm). BTW: If possible I don't want anything inside or below the concrete slab (I'm partial to scuppers). EDIT: What about this idea: make the whole roof sloped (2% inclination) towards the back, and there use a single gutter with a tube down each end? Is that good design? I know that one end of the roof will be almost 30 cm higher than the other (the lenght is 13,5 meter), but since I'm at construction phase I can make the roof concrete slab sloped from the start. <Q> In my country, people prefer scuppers and PVC pipes. <S> Make the floor sloped to four corners. <S> Make gutters at the four edges. <S> That's to say, the center point is slightly higher than the four corners and edges. <S> Edit : Do you want exterior eaves? <S> If you do, you can have scuppers there. <S> If parapet is solid, you might have to make scuppers on the parapet. <S> Exterior pipes are suggested as you can easily handle the clog. <S> Not only make the roof sloped, but also the gutters inclined towards the scuppers. <A> You need to have a pitch somehow. <S> Basically your options are either slope to a drain(s) in the interior or slope to the edge. <S> If you do use a drain or scuppers, you should also consider what would happen if they clog. <S> You don't want to set yourself up for a situation where more standing water can accumulate than the structure can safely hold. <S> If the parapet is solid, you could potentially get a lot of water up there over time. <S> Every inch of standing water adds about 5 psf, which could add up quickly. <S> Also, standing water has a tendency to "pond" — cause deflection in the middle of the roof, which draws more water to that spot, which causes more deflection... etc. <S> etc. <A> Ensure that you are using corrugated metal decking, and pour high quality concrete within a form involving that decking, to at least 6" in depth. <S> Also, form a grid of epoxy-coated 1/2" rebar consisting of 1' x 1', 1" off the bottom of a top rib of the decking. <S> Ensure that the concrete is air-entrained and fibre-reinforced. <S> 25 mpa. <S> Pour it flat, and don't forget to mechanically vibrate. <S> The span of the ribs may be no longer than 8'. <S> The seams of the decking must be crimped, and welded. <S> The rebar must be tied with epoxy-wire. <S> After all that, install Blueskin and then insulation and then gravel base!
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If you don't want an interior drain, it sounds like you're going to be going to the edge—e.g. gutters or scuppers.
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What paint do I use to paint wood in a bathroom? I have a lot of wood in my bathroom, some in worse wear than others, its really ugly. So I want to paint it. My question is what paint do I use, do I need primer/ undercoat/ special bathroom paint? I'm more concerned about the wood which is the window sill and the wood which holds the sink basin. I also have to paint a previously painted wooden panel on the bath. <Q> <A> Couple more factors to consider before you paint. <S> Whenever repainting old work, preparation is the most important step in the process. <S> Old finishes need to be very clean, all soaps, residues removed and surfaces sanded or chemically deglossed. <S> Be aware, any paints before 1978 may contain lead and should be tested and handled properly to avoid any health risks. <S> Surfaces should be primed, if there is any bare wood, I like pigmented shellac, like Bin's Bullseye primer. <S> Over old paints, a good high hiding primer like Kilz if fine. <S> Always do a quick buff sanding and damp wipe down of the dried primer before applying top coats. <S> In bathrooms, I usually prefer a latex enamel semi-gloss paint. <S> The choice of full gloss or semi-gloss is simply a personal preference. <S> An enamel give you a very hard finish that cleans <S> well and will hold up for years. <S> Always use a good quality brush. <S> Please, no bargain basement $0.99 specials. <S> A quality job comes from proper prep, quality products and the right tools. <S> Good luck. <A> For the home bathrooms I just use a good primer and then a semi-gloss latex. <S> However, at work we always used oil based paints in the bathrooms there. <S> The heavier usage in a high water/humidity environment made latex not work out so well.
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I'd suggest a quality primer (Killz would be a good brand) and then a high-gloss latex, perhaps with an anti-mildew additive (most paint departments will have anti-mildew bases designed for high moisture areas).
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How can I quiet my dryer vent from the outside? I have a Whirlpool electric clothes dryer and it is under 5 years old. When it is drying it makes a "whirling sound" that is especially loud from the outside where it is vented. My neighbor is constantly complaining about it. We shoved a large rock up in the vent from the outside and that helped a lot, but the clothes did not dry properly as they should have on the normal setting with the normal amount of clothes that I always dry. <Q> If it is a plastic duct then I wouldn't even bother cleaning it and instead would replace it with a metal one. <S> A rigid duct line is probably better than a flexible one but is a bit more difficult to work with. <S> If it is a collapsible/flexible duct, make sure it is fully extended and trim off any excess ducting. <S> If possible you might consider relocating the exhaust further away from you neighbor. <A> I completely agree. <S> Do NOT block the vent. <S> Stuffing something into it is a sure way of setting your home on fire in only a short time. <S> And your clothes won't dry either. <S> Ok, when the fire starts, things will get hot, but then the fire company will wet it all down. <S> It won't be a happy occasion. <S> Seriously, what I'd offer is to create a muffler. <S> I'd build a large box around the end of the vent that can muffle the sounds. <S> Put some holes in the box, that do not aim at your neighbor. <S> Make it so you can open it and clean out any lint that accumulates. <S> Make sure you check this periodically. <A> Generally to quiet exhaust flows you add a big expansion area into the pipe, like a car muffler or even a gun silencer. <S> This could be a section of fence or a shrub. <S> be sure to keep a couple of feet of clearance between the exhaust vent whatever you put out there so that you allow good airflow. <S> If all else fails, bring the neighbor some cookies and <S> some ear plugs. <S> As others have said, get that rock outta there post haste! <A> I am a neighbor with this problem which became a huge issue and not addressed immediately. <S> Solution: <S> Rigid pipe, only two bends, short as possible. <S> Moved exit hole to grassy backyard rather than aimed at a concrete driveway that amplified sound bounced on neighbors house. <S> It was the right thing to do. <S> Fixed it. <S> Also put a hood on exit hole to direct sound to the ground rather than the just the flaps - dryer works faster now and it lowered bill. <S> We also agreed not to do laundry after 10pm because its not a hard thing to do and saves cop calls!
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I'd suggest using some sort of a structure to block the direct "line of sight" between the exhaust vent and your unsettled neighbor. The first thing to check is that your duct is free of lint and other debris. I don't think this is a good idea for a clothes dryer, as it will accumulate lint, which can become a fire hazard. Check for any unnecessary bends or kinks in the line - the straighter the better as bends restrict the airflow and result in additional noise. Absolutely do not block the vent - this could cause a fire!
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Is it possible to use a dryer vent as a heat source in the winter? Is it possible to attach a diverter to an electric clothes dryer vent so it can help heat my house in the winter? Seems like such a waste to blow it all outside. I imagine you'd need some sort of filter or maybe a radiant heating option. <Q> Dryer vent air is full of water vapor and dust. <S> I wouldn't want to blow it into my house. <S> I do not know how much heat (BTU's) a dryer outputs during a run <S> but it seems like it would be a small amount, and of course most people don't run their dryer very often - maybe a handful of times a week. <A> Yes. <S> You can get an indoor lint collector that allows you to vent the dryer exhaust indoors. <S> They're simple and cheap but also direct all of your dryer exhaust into your house, including all the moisture. <S> A more expensive option is a full heat exchanger which attempts to just transfer the heat and nothing else. <S> You have to filter the lint first, however, or you're going to clog the exchanger. <S> There are dangers associated with recovering heat this way . <S> Be sure you're familiar with them. <A> Here in Wisconsin we do it just as Billy alluded to: a filtered bypass vent. <S> You can use the damper to bleed off a little or a lot of the hot air/moist air into the home. <S> The units are around $20. <S> As with all things there is no pat answer. <S> Use diligence and it will help. <S> It is not a open and run 100% of the time option though if you do multiple loads for a medium/large family...
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Be advised that you should place a fan or other means of circulating the moist air, as it will make your dryer room VERY moist if not pushed out into other areas.
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How do you screw in double-ended screws? I have a flat pack shelving unit to put together. It has double ended screws. According to the instructions you just screw them in using your hands. This is impossible: the pre-drilled holes seem way too small for the screws. I am unable to screw a nut on to tighten with a spanner as it is two normal screws stuck together not the usual version. Suggestions, anyone? <Q> Since the double ended screws are typically for attaching two wood surfaces together, start the screw in one of the pilot holes (just enough to stay put). <S> Then align the other pilot hole and spin one or both pieces of wood together. <S> For example, if this is the below end cap on a wood pole, you'd put the screw on the end of the pole so that it doesn't fall and then spin the cap on until the screw is embedded in both surfaces and they are tight together. <S> The only time you need to use pliers on the center piece is if you need to remove the screw. <A> Does the screw look something like this: You can see that there is a piece in the middle that doesn't have a thread and is faceted rather than round. <S> You should be able to use a small spanner or pair of pincers to screw it into the first piece. <A> Double ended screws are only used where you can spin the two pieces together. <S> Don't screw in one and, then the other. <S> There is no need for a wrench in the middle. <S> This will usually only bung up the threads. <S> Start the screws in both holes at once, just as far as your fingers will start them. <S> (That won't be far, nor does it need be.) <S> Just turn the pieces. <S> Both ends of the screw will feed in at once. <S> This works because if one of them gets too deep, it will have more friction, allowing the other end to catch up. <A> Chuck the dowel screw into a drill. <S> Yes, you will bung up some threads, but not so badly that it won't work just fine. <S> After you do the first end, then that piece will be your handle for the other.
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The other solution is to make the pilot hole slightly larger so you can screw it in with your hands.
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Do I need to plug my snow thrower to GFCI outlet? I bought a snow thrower with 13.5A power. One area of my house is close to a GFCI outlet but the other side of the house is not. It's just a regular outlet. So I am not sure it can be safe to use with the normal outlet. Addition Info: The Model is Snow Joe Ultra 18-IN 13.5 AMP Electric Snow Thrower with Light - SJ621 <Q> I think your question is about safely using your snow blower with a non-GFI protected outlet. <S> In your case specifically, I think you will find that your snow blower handles and controls are well insulated electrically from the source voltage and motor. <S> The case is probably all plastic. <S> The risk of shock is very low, but possible if you were handling the base unit for some reason. <S> The proper answer would then be to always use a GFI protected power source for all items used outdoors. <A> If you check the electrical department at your local home center you can purchase a portable GFI. <S> It looks like a small extension cord with a box mounted between the plugs. <S> It will protect you while using the snowthrower. <S> It will offer protection while connecting the snow blower to the power cord, however you will not be protected while plugging the portable GFI into the power outlet. <S> Use common sense while making this connection, don't stand in water,dry hands, etc. <A> You can use a GFCI outlet adapter to get ground fault protection from a normal outlet. <S> That's what I would advise for anything that mixes moisture with electricity. <S> Of course the risk of shock is low as long as you're not pouring water on the machine, but the whole point of GFCI outlets is to protect your life in the unlikely event that a ground fault forms. <S> I wouldn't consider using an electric appliance around snow without one. <S> Particularly if you have salt on the ground—that will melt snow and the salinity will increase the conductivity of puddles.
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As a rule of thumb, any appliance used outdoors should be plugged into a GFI outlet.
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How can I locate and repair a leak? We recently bought a 100 year old house that stood uninhabited for 18 months prior to our move. Everything had been properly winterized for the cold winter months (Temperatures can reach -40 C) and the water was turned on and seemed to be working properly for about 3 weeks. Then we ran into some issues. The house is two storeys with two full baths on each level stacked on top of one another. The first floor toilet had a minor leak that seemed to correct itself within a day and hasn't been an issue since. The second story toilet began to leak about a week later due to the tank overfilling and leaking through the flush handle. We remedied this problem quite easily and the toilet hasn't leaked since. Now here comes the real issue. Shortly after the second toilet leak, we woke up early one morning to discover water covering the floor of the first floor bathroom. It was coming from the ceiling at a steady drip rate, but nothing alarming. We shut the water off to the entire house and the dripping stopped after about 12 hours. During the following week we ended up peeling back the plastered layer on the ceiling to discover that it is made of cement board (??) and the water seems to just seep through when the water is on. We can access the shower pipes on the second floor through a removable panel in the wall, but there is no water to be seen. I guess I'm just trying to see if anyone has had experience with a similar issue, any suggestions as to how it can be diagnosed/fixed, and whether or not I'm going to have to take a second mortgage out to fix the issue. I should mention that we did call a plumber the same day the ceiling leak was discovered. He set up an appointment, but then called back and told us that if the leak was related to a burst pipe, the amount of water leaking would be much more substantial and it wouldn't continue to leak after the water was turned off (which it did initially for about 12 hours). He informed us it was probably water that had pooled underneath the upstairs toilet and was now seeping through the cement board. We now know that the leak will start and stop in relation to the water being turned on and off, but I think the issue is that the leak isn't a dramatic one when the water is left on. It just kind of... drips through. Please help! <Q> What this could be is that you have a slow leak from the floor above. <S> Probably a water feed rather than a drain. <S> Although it could be from the heating system if you have a water or steam system with radiators. <S> When you turned the water on the house it started to drip, and the ceiling soaked it all up. <S> Eventually the ceiling became saturated and started to drip onto the floor. <S> If you do have a slow leak then obviously you need to find the source. <S> It's probably a leaky pipe joint, or maybe a loose compression fitting. <S> The only way you're going to find it is to get access, as for how that completely depends on your house's construction. <S> There may be a panel in front of the bath that can be removed, etc. <S> What you need to do is meticulously go through the whole bathroom above and look for any kind of access to pipes you see, and look for signs of dripping moisture, oxidation on the pipes, or hard water deposits. <S> As it sounds like the whole ceiling needs to come down on the floor below do that first, then use that access to find your leak. <S> As for how to fix it if it's a compression fitting <S> get out your wrench and have at it. <S> If it's a solder joint or a bad pipe get a plumber in unless you have the tools and the experience. <S> Good luck! <A> You may want to thoroughly check around the upstairs toilet stool and tank. <S> You already mentioned that there was a leak there that was easy to correct.............. <S> but maybe your fix was not a 100% solution. <S> Wipe down all visible pipes and joints with paper towels. <S> Then wrap the joints with new dry towels and let them stay in place for a few hours. <S> (You can use a short strip of masking tape around the paper towels to help hold them in place). <S> Later go check all of these and see if any show any signs of wetness or damp. <S> If so there is a leak nearby. <S> Keep your ears open to unexpected re-filling of the toilet tanks. <S> If this happens there may be a slow leak in the toilet tank system that is dripping someplace other than into the drain system. <A> The basin and shower share the same pipe that attaches to the waste water down pipe. <S> If so the water usually will flow down the outside of the waste water pipe and appear on a lower floor.
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The connection between the waste down pipe and the basin/bath/shower pipe may have a leak.
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What is a "rigid surface"? Can someone explain as detailed as possible what, exactly, a rigid surface is? The context in which I am inquiring is in regards to Green Glue. It requires application between two rigid surfaces. I am sure this is a global term that doesn't apply to just Green Glue. <Q> Rigid means something that will hold its shape on its own. <S> Wood (except veneer), drywall, backer-board are all rigid. <S> A piece of thin paneling made from plastic/fiberglass would not probably count. <S> However, the definition is somewhat subjective. <S> In the context of Green Glue, I presume they want to ensure no movement between the layers. <A> (i.e. It has a Young's Modulus of infinity). <S> Practically, it means that it's a body that doesn't bend or flex under normal loading. <A> "Rigid" just means the opposite of "flexible" and its meaning is subjective and context dependent. <S> It's really more of a relative term: "drywall is more rigid than house wrap", "CMU walls are more rigid than drywall".
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Formally, a Rigid Body is one that doesn't deform under stress.
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How do I seal the sink basin opening? I purchased a new bathroom sink and faucet and set everything up according to instructions. The faucet instructions told me to use silicone for the drain lip (the border thing around the stopper in the bottom of the inside of the sink, flange?). Anyways, underneath where the pipe comes out is a rubber gasket and I've used the plastic screw on the drain pipe to seal the gasket against the underside of the sink, but when I put a little bit of water in it, some water leaks out from between the gasket and the sink. I've tried tightening it as much as I can and it still leaks. Should I be putting silicone or plumbers putty between the gasket and the sink? If possible, I'd like to avoid taking the drain lip off because I've already sealed it there. What should I do? Here is a picture of the underside of the sink: UPDATE: It turns out (haha) that the problem was that the rubber "washer" was actually threaded itself. I'm not sure if they are always like this, but I didn't realize that it was threaded when I was assembling everything. So I assume that what was happening originally is that when I didn't have the rubber washer close enough to the basin when I started tightening the nut (blue) that it was moving the the threads out of alignment or something and not making a good seal. Once I turned the washer a few turns upwards, then tightened the blue nut, it made a proper seal. All without using a bunch of puttey or silicone. UPDATE2: So it has been 10 months and it hasn't leaked. Problem solved. <Q> It should not be necessary to try to goop some type of sealer around the lower neck of the sink drain. <S> Such solution may work but it is not the desirable approach when you consider that someday this assembly will need to come apart for repairs. <S> In looking at the assembly that you have I wonder if one or more things are at play here. <S> 1) <S> If the drain pipe tail was not centered in the neck of the sink drain and then had lateral force on it due to the down stream goose neck trap it could be forcing the gasket open on one side. <S> Check that there is no undue large amount of sideways pressure on the lower part of this pipe assembly. <S> 2) <S> It looks like the gasket directly contacts with the face of the capture nut around the drain pipe. <S> It is possible that by tightening the capture nut that it is putting a twisting force on the gasket that may cause it to "fold away" from the sealing edge of the sink neck. <S> 3) <S> It is possible that there could be a small crack or pitted area on the sink neck that keeps the rubber gasket from engaging 100% with the sink neck. <S> 4) Sometimes the "rubber" used in this type gasket is made of a plastic material that is anything but rubber. <S> Check at the local hardware store to see if they have another gasket that is more pliable. <S> In some cases a silicon material may be better. <A> Trying to patch the leak will likely only stop it for a short time, you'll then end up with a possibly unnoticed leak sometime in the future. <S> This unnoticed leak can lead to massive amounts of water damage, and far more work in the future. <S> Do it right now, and never worry about it again. <S> Silicone is great stuff and is very useful for a lot of things, but it is not the fix-all-do-everything product people like to think it is. <S> As you've seen, silicone is not the best option for sealing drain flanges. <S> Disassemble the drain. <S> Scrape all the silicone off the sink and flange. <S> Roll out a good size bead of plumbers putty around the sink flange lip. <S> Seat the drain flange in the putty. <S> Tighten the drain retaining nut. <S> Remove the excess plumbers putty that squeezes out. <S> Repeat steps 5-6 until the drain is adequately tight. <S> Enjoy a leak free drain. <A> Unless I'm very much misreading the picture you've installed your drain assembly incorrectly. <S> It looks to me like you've got:sinkwashergasketnut <S> you should have: <S> sinkgasketwashernut <S> The washer is rigid and will not seal itself to the underside of the sink. <S> You need the gasket between the washer and the sink, with the plastic nut putting pressure on the washer to evenly distribute pressure over the entire gasket. <A> Before trying any solutions with sealant, try screwing the gasket (washer) as high as possible prior to installation, keeping it on the threads. <S> Once you screw the pipe into the underside of the drain, the gasket should touch underneath the sink basin, and the nut below the gasket should really only tighten the gasket to the basin. <S> If the nut has to push the gasket toward the basin any significant distance, often times the nut will push the gasket off of the threads and create an opening for a leak. <S> I had already stripped all of the caulk I had laid in the sink drain and re-applied it once, and I was about to lather caulk all around the gasket in desperation before I tried this method very carefully, but now haven't seen a leak in a month since. <A> I was running into the same problem of a small leak around the sink neck and gasket. <S> It seemed to be from culmination of many things - poor sink neck, slightly crooked angle of connecting pipes and my tightening the plastic screw nut too much. <S> So, I did run some plumbers putty around the gasket prior to screwing it in place (wow, that was much easier than sliding it), using a second gasket, then washer and plastic screw nut. <S> Not sure which change actually fixed the problem, but so far so good. <S> You could see from the old gasket that the pressure on the gasket was not even as one side was much more indented than the other.
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Although it may seem like a lot of work, the best option is to take the drain apart and reassemble it. The gasket is soft - it shapes itself to the underside of the sink and compresses to form a tight seal.
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How can I repair a flexible hot water supply hose that is leaking at the nut? The hot water supply hose under my sink started leaking after I replaced the popup drain on the sink. Apparently I disturbed the hose in some way. It is leaking from just above the nut where it connects to the shutoff valve. I removed it and added new plumbers tape, and after reconnecting it was still weeping after I checked it 10 minutes later (about 1 drop). So I tried tightening it more, and it began leaking faster (again, from above the nut). Do I need to replace the hose itself? I'm thinking the gasket/washer, whatever it is, is just old. I have no idea how old this hose it, at least 10 years. <Q> Does flexible = plastic or flexible = braided hose with permanent nut fittings on the ends? <S> If this is one of those braided type hoses with permanently attached fittings on each end, then they seal with a rubber gasket permanently installed in the nut fitting. <S> The hose itself could be cracked from age or hardened enough that it doesn't engage with the barbs under the swedge collar and can leak there as well. <S> The hose assembly is cheap, just replace the whole thing. <S> Flexible plastic is another thing all together. <S> The top has a ball surface that seals when the nut pushes it into the faucet fitting and the lower end has a nut and a compression collar. <S> If the compression collar gets damaged, it can be replaced. <A> In this case, a gasket in the hose is likely degraded. <S> Replace the entire hose with a new one. <S> For this particular fitting, PTFE (plumbing) tape should not be used, and perhaps could be causing the leaking if it is preventing the hose from seating properly. <A> Over tightening a plumbing fixture can be just as bad as under-tightening, as it can damage the threads and prevent a proper seal. <S> In your case, you should try to fix this first by reconnecting the pipe with a cleaned fitting: <S> Remove the hose. <S> Clean the threads on the hose and the fitting with a wire brush. <S> Wrap new silicon plumbers tape around the threads <S> TWICE - no more - too much is not a good thing. <S> Reconnect until the hose fitting is snug. <S> DO NOT over tighten as this promotes leaking. <A> I prefer to use the braided hoses over PVC (Never had a rupture). <S> Their problem area is usually the connection to the shut off valve. <S> I have had new hoses to leak due to over tightening or use of Teflon tape (unnecessary). <S> The remedy is to replace questionable and old hoses. <S> Next, remove unnecessary tape. <S> Then, hand tighten with approximately 1/4 turn (or only enough to stop any leaking).
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If this doesn't work, disconnect the hose and replace with a new wire mesh hose, using the same taping method. Remove the existing tape completely. This tape isn't to create a seal, it's to ease the turning of the nut.
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Should I be worried if I missed the studs while mounting my TV? I think I missed the studs based on how easily the drill moved through the drywall. My LCD only weighs 27lbs and the mount itself is 5lbs (rated to hold 165lbs, and uses 4 8mm lag bolts). I pulled as hard as I could downward on the tv and nothing moved at all, everything seems pretty sturdy. Should I be worried? Is there something I can test in a week or so, to see if it will continue to hold strong? <Q> Your TV is being supported by two pieces of paper. <S> That should be all you need to know. <S> The white plaster material in the middle of drywall resists compression. <S> The interaction between the shaft of the bolts and the inner plaster is keeping the load from shearing straight down the wall and will support a significant load. <S> However, on the front and back of the drywall are two sheets of paper that resists tension, similar to the purpose of rebar in concrete. <S> And the interaction between the threads of the bolts and these two sheets of paper are all that are preventing your TV from being pulled out of the wall. <S> Over time, the top bolts will pull out from vibration, temperature and humidity changes, and especially if you adjust the angle of the TV. <S> Those lower bolts will immediately fail, and you'll have a broken TV on the floor at best, or a broken person that was hit by the TV at worst. <S> So, as everyone else has already said, remount the TV to proper structure. <A> Gypsum board ( drywall, plasterboard, wallboard ) is not a structural material, its only purposes are to prevent you from seeing into the next room and to conceal utility lines and structural members within the wall. <S> Drywall anchors are great for hanging small picture frames, little decorative shelves, and other similar knickknacks, they are not for hanging heavy expensive things like televisions. <S> When hanging any heavy object on a wall/ceiling, you should always anchor the object to structural members. <S> If there are no structural members where you want the object, you'll have to make a brace or bracket that can attach to the structural members and attach the object to that. <S> This brace/bracket can be either built into the wall (concealed), or attached to the outside of the wall (visible). <S> In either case, it must be sturdily attached to the structural members of the wall/ceiling. <S> My advice to you would be to take the TV down, and remount it properly. <A> Did you drill pilot holes? <S> If so, you usually get wood chips coming out and can tell if you've hit the studs. <S> If you just used the lag bolts to attach, I would be nervous about the TV. <S> It partly depends on how bad it would be if it came loose. <S> Is this a super-expensive TV that is right above your child's play area? <S> Or is it just a small in a corner where nobody will bump it? <S> You should also consider pull-out strength, not just straight down. <S> E.g. if the corner of the TV catches on a passerby and they pull it away from the wall. <S> (You maybe also should consider why you "missed <S> the studs"—did <S> you just drill and hope you'd get them? <S> There are ways to tell where they are.) <S> You can probably use the drywall anchors in the same location as the holes from the bolts. <S> EDIT <S> I'm talking about the drywall anchors that open up inside the wall cavity like these, which have a 79 lb pull-out strength , not the wimpy ones you just push into the pilot hole . <A> Even though latest TVs are pretty light, you're not going to get insurance if you don't mount it on studs like you're supposed to. <S> Use a stud finder and pre-drill pilot holes to be sure you got the studs. <S> Your bracket will very likely have holes aligning at a regular stud width, so no need to pull off the drywall to install additional bracing. <S> but you'll have peace of mind it will not come off by accident. <A> If you use some large toggle bolts and the TV isn't very heavy, you should be fine. <S> I built a wooden cabinet and filled it full of canned goods. <S> I realized I couldn't get it where I wanted it while also having it on the studs, so I bought the biggest toggle bolts I could find and mounted it straight into the drywall with six of those bolts. <S> It held just fine, even when filled with canned goods for a whole year. <S> So toggle bolts are always an option as long as the drywall is in good shape. <S> There's also something called Snap Toggle that may be even better.
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Once those top bolts start to pull through, the paper will tear, the plaster will shear out of the hole, and the TV will only be supported by the lower bolts under a highly leveraged load. Personally I would remove the lag bolts and either move the mount onto studs if possible or use drywall anchors instead. All you might end up with is a couple of tiny holes to patch up
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How can I redirect the discharge of my forced air vent? An AC/heating register on our kitchen ceiling blows air directly toward a gas cooktop causing the flames to flicker. Adjusting the register doesn't seem to make a difference. I've looked into air deflectors but the ones I've found seem cheap or have bad reviews. Is there a high quality air deflector out there or, even better, an alternative solution (e.g., a highly adjustable register)? Here's a photo of a similar register. <Q> Get (or fabricate) a register deflector. <A> One idea is to take the register off and place a Air damper in the vent. <S> Then Then set the damper to a fixed point( as to not blow the flames). <S> This can be a bit tricky to place inside the ceiling though. <S> IF you are concerned about building code, then it would be better to get a non flammable tape. <S> Your not suppose to have anything flammable in the air duct system. <A> Which vents point toward the stove? <S> (I'm assuming your actual register has the same arrangement of vents as your photo; if not, please disregard...) <S> If it's the center/largest set of vents - the ones pointing downward in the picture - then I'd say that the easiest thing would be to rotate the register 180° so that those vents are blowing away from the stove. <S> If it's one of the sides, this doesn't help, of course.
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another option would be to take off the vent, and place duct tape(solution for everything) on the inside of the vent where it is blowing toward you flame.
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How do I remove a flush mounted ceiling light fixture dome? My bedroom has a very nice looking flush mounted ceiling light with a glass dome. However, all the bulbs have gone out and I cannot get the glass out to replace them. I'm 5'4" and standing on the bottom corner of my bed I can reach up with my arms fully extended and handle the glass on the bottom and along the very small lip / edge of the glass dome but it doesn't slide or move in either direction. According to a messageboard post I found, the glass dome type of light fixture should move 1/8 of the way counter-clockwise to be removed but I can't get it to budge in either direction. I am at my wits end; HOW can I get this glass dome out? The glass has thus far ignored my curses and yells. Also my room is pretty small, I can't move my bed anywhere else to get on a stepladder beneath the fixture. Here is a picture of a similar model: ETA: I have tried both gloves and exerting sideways turning pressure instead of upward turning pressure. I need to borrow or buy a larger stepladder, but I don't know how much it will help since I think I am getting as much traction and leverage I am going to get with my hand strength. Someone suggested I superglue something to the glass to use as a handle, so I guess I will try that next. FINAL EDIT: My roommate (who has 6 inches and probably 50 pounds on me) was able to remove the glass after about 5 diffucult minutes of loosening the dome while wearing texturized rubber gloves. His hands are bigger and doubtlessly stronger than mine, which was mostly what granted him victory over the light. I'm glad I didn't have to glue handles to it, but still frustrated by what I maintain is a terrible design for a light fixture. My hands might be on the small side, but it shouldn't be impossible to change lightbulbs if you're on the smaller end of the human spectrum. <Q> I had a very similar light, and the key was this: <S> You want to touch as lightly as you can, near the edges, and try to apply rotational energy only, with no pushing up. <S> Unfortunately, that is roughly impossible to do if you're reaching so high that you need to press up on the glass to maintain balance. <S> So, you still need to solve the problem of getting higher (and you should NOT climb on anything placed on a bed unless it's highly stable). <S> It feels very counter intuitive, but it helped me in a similar circumstance. <S> One other thing that may help, suggested by none other than @Joel Spolsky , was to try using rubber or latex gloves to allow you to produce more friction without more pressure. <A> I was stymied for a couple days. <S> I have plenty of upper-body strength <S> but that dome was not going to budge ... period. <S> But when I hit (literally) upon the solution, it was easy. <S> First I simplified what I was going to do by putting a screwdriver blade between the glass and the ring and pried ever so slightly. <S> Just enough to push the glass a smidgen. <S> Every few inches all around. <S> Be careful, you don't want to deform the ring. <S> (You can skip this step if you want.) <S> Then the important part. <S> I happen to have a rubber mallet. <S> I used it to strike tangential, glancing blows along the edge of the dome, pushing it in the direction of unscrewing (counter-clockwise). <S> It didn't take many blows to get the dome moving, <S> maybe 5 or 6. <S> At that point it was easy to unscrew the rest of the way. <S> It's the same idea as when you have a new jar of pasta sauce or jelly <S> and it refuses to open. <S> You take a butter knife and with the heavy end you strike the rim of the lid to move it counter-clockwise. <S> The rubber won't break the glass plus it produces enough friction to effectively transmit the force to the glass dome. <S> When I replaced the dome I made sure I didn't screw it tight. <S> I left it short of completely tight. <S> I happened to be putting LEDs into the fixture and with their advertised expected lifetime of 22-25 years, changing them next time won't be my problem. <S> Still .... <A> Some types you pull straight down on the cover assembly, most likely including the metal ring in this case. <S> The types that remove in this manner have some spring wires that will fold down from the ceiling when pulling down on the fixture. <S> Another type will have a decorative metal piece in the bottom center of the globe. <S> These remove by screwing off this knob or finial and then this allows the globe to drop straight down. <S> It is possible that a previous occupant had repainted the ceiling and painted right up to and on the edge of the metal ring. <S> If this is the case there is no amount of gentle nudging that will get the cover to move. <S> If this is the case in your instance it will be necessary to break this paint lock ring by cutting into it all around using a sharp utility knife. <S> As far as the problem with getting good access to the fixture you can probably get the step ladder to straddle over the corner of the bed: <A> You need to rotate the inner glass dome counterclockwise a little <S> and it will come out. <S> Unfortunately if any dust gets in between the glass dome and the metal it will be stuck and won't rotate at all (like mine wouldn't). <S> I took a razor knife and ran the blade between the dome and the metal all around and removed the blockages. <S> After that the dome rotated easily. <S> By the way, don't rotate it clockwise because that will remove the entire unit from the ceiling.
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Some of these types of flush mount fixture globes are removed by turning them clockwise so that they unscrew from a threaded tube that joins to the inner electrical box bracket. Any upward pressure exerted from grabbing the glass created friction that made it not turn. Do also take a careful look at where the metal ring comes in contact with the ceiling. But if you can get a bit closer, try less pressure, rather than more. It's designed to look easy on paper or in the factory but in real life it's not so easy. Only here you use a rubber mallet to move the dome.
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How to wire multiple thermostats I would like to have two thermostats controlling a single furnace. However I'm not 100% sure how I would need to wire everything to achieve the correct effect. Assuming a thermostat simply acts like an on/off switch, I think that I could run another set of wires in parallel to the existing ones. I believe the current thermostat simply uses two wires. Would this work? Are there considerations as to the type of furnace or thermostat? I'd add the second thermostat in the basement and normally keep it at a low temperature unless I'm in the room. As it is now with the thermostat upstairs, it's very difficult to keep a consistent temperature below. I don't want to move the upstairs thermostat because if I'm not in the basement I don't care how cold it gets and the upstairs would become inconsistent. <Q> I'm going to go ahead and say that YES, you can do as you propose, wiring the two thermostats in parallel. <S> While, as others have correctly pointed out, this will not let you achieve temperature control in both the upstairs and downstairs simultaneously, I'm going to take you at your word that you simply do not want it to be uncomfortably cold in the basement when occupying the basement, and infer that you don't care what happens upstairs during those times. <S> In this case, go for it--install the second thermostat. <S> The upstairs area of the house will in fact be over-heated when you use this basement thermostat, but you may still consider the result to be an improvement over the current situation. <S> Just remember to reset the basement thermostat to cooler temperature before you leave to go back upstairs or you will find yourself having to make the trip back down later. <S> The "correct" way to solve the problem is to split your system into two zones, which requires installing baffles/valves on your heating ducts/pipes, which would allow independent control of upstairs and downstairs. <S> If you are using traditional thermostats, then adding a thermostat in parallel will change the heat anticipator function in both of them. <S> This is a function that reduces furnace run times to improve temperature stability. <S> If both are always connected, lower the HA settings in each to fix. <A> You want multiple zones on a single furnace. <S> To achieve this you need more than an additional thermostat - you need electronically controlled baffles in your heating system. <S> The way such systems work is - you have each "zone" blocked off by a baffle, and a thermostat in each zone. <S> Both thermostats can call for heat, triggering the furnace to fire, and each thermostat controls one baffle. <S> When heat is needed, it opens the baffle (while calling for heat) - when heat isn't needed it closes the baffle. <S> Generally this is not a DIY project - <S> not that you couldn't do it <S> but it's a pretty specialized skill set. <A> A thermostat is basically a relay that energizes one or more circuits <S> (ie: Fan AND heat), usually with 24VAC. <S> The R/RW wire is the incoming power source, and then it sends power back through the other wire like Y, G, W, etc. <S> There are some other thermostats that are line voltage and simply switch 120/240VAC instead of 24VAC. <S> You could probably wire two up, but as tester101 mentioned, it won't really help with your problem. <S> Usually the temperature is averaged across both thermometers, so while not perfect, it does help keep one level from being really hot/cold and the other level the other extreme (both will sit somewhere in between). <S> Look around for thermostats that support a remote wired thermometer.
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What you probably want is one thermostat with multiple thermometers (one built in to the thermostat, and one remote).
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What model circuit breaker is this? I live in an old 50 + year old house and it still has the original circuit breakers. I am trying to search for one that died, but don't know the model or even if they make these anymore. If any electricians out there can help me out, I would greatly appreciate it. I haven't removed it (Kinda' scared to do so and get shocked), but here's a pic. Here's more pics on the Fuse Box. <Q> While I think you'll be smart to hire an electrician and consider replacing the whole panel... <S> Circuit breaker boxes vary in style. <S> You have to buy the correct replacement breaker for your specific box. <S> To determine what you need, examine the box itself. <S> Somewhere on the box will be the name of the manufacturer. <S> Tip: "Square D" is not it. <S> (Personal experience talking) <S> If you can't immediately find the name of your panel maker, go to this link: Online site for buying circuit breakers <S> They list a lot of manufacturers there - see if you can find yours. <S> Now again - because you yourself said you're scared to remove it - PLEASE <S> DON'T. <S> This is potentially deadly work you're considering <S> and if you don't know what you're doing, this is NOT a project you should learn using the trial and error method!!! <S> Update - after looking at the extra pics - your breaker box is by "American". <S> First manuf. <S> on the list. <S> The labels on some of your breakers indicate it. <A> These are, in theory, Seimens breakers. <S> (I say in theory because the box looks like someone's taken a hacksaw to it, which means they may have replaced the guts with some other brand of hardware.) <S> They should be available at Home Depot. <S> Shut off the mains, remove the bad breaker, take it in to Home Depot and make sure that you match them. <S> Alternately, take it to an electrical distributor and they'll be able to match it. <S> However, I would STRONGLY urge you to hire an electrician and have them evaluate the condition of the panel because of a few of the things that I see inside the box. <S> First of all, there are wire 'colors' that mean specific things. <S> What I'm seeing is a red wire and a green wire going into the hot side of some of these breakers. <S> Red is 'meh' but not <S> 'right'; it should only be used for the switch leg of a circuit <S> but it's OK for it to be 'hot'. <S> Green generally means ground and anyone working on the far end of that cable is going to get a surprise unless they're using a non-contact voltage sensor. <A> TL;DR: <S> If you haven't incinerated yet, replace that panel as soon as possible, if not sooner!!! <S> It looks like your panel may have been an archaic piece of equipment (fuse box?!) <S> at some point which someone (illegally!) gutted and replaced with the guts of a FPE Stab-Lok panel. <S> Sadly, what they did is replace old, but somewhat-functional service equipment with total garbage that is liable to not do its job whatsoever when called upon. <S> Yes -- these breakers, especially the two-pole types, are known to consistently fail to meet trip curves, and the two-pole versions are susceptible to an internal mechanical jam that turns them into fancy jumper leads. <S> P.S. <S> the labels on the breakers are a dead giveaway -- one of them states "Stab-Lok" on it in somewhat messed up letters, and both of them have visible Type NA markings on them; unlike say a BR breaker (which fits several different makes of panels), the type NA is only compatible with FPE Stab-Lok panels.
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- Square D MAKES breakers to fit numerous types of boxes. The answer is actually staring you in the face under all that paint: Electri-Center. There are distinct signs of hackery and/or overloading and/or age-induced overloading on this panel, and with that plus the aluminum wiring and the age of these breakers, I would be extremely leery of just replacing the breaker and assuming that it will be fine.
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Why will my toilet not flush after it rains or when ground is wet I live in a house with a septic system. When the winter/spring rains come, the toilet on the ground level master bedroom does not flush. We have another toilet on the ground floor that does flush. We have removed the non-flushing toilet, snaked the line and even installed a newer toilet. Nothing works until the ground dries out and then it will work fine. We had the septic tank pumped out, though it does tend to fill with ground water. What I don't understand is why will the one toilet work when the other will not? Any suggestions as to what the problem might be? <Q> Septic System?? <S> If so, the system is FULL of water already and needs to drain out from your drain field. <S> If it is a municipal system, tree roots CAN SWELL TO 40 % or more of their normal size in wet weather, creating a blockage- <S> hence a slower drainage- <S> I'd look into a rooter service if this is the case and if on a Septic System- even pumping the tank will not help as the ground water is the culprit-preventing more water to disperse. <S> Pumping the tank will only remove liquid & solids in the inlet side- not removing water from the leach/drain field. <A> I have the same problem. <S> In my house, the toilet nearest the septic tank (outlet from the house) is the one that fails during extremely wet weather. <S> A simple explaination is this is because the other toilet can empty its contents into the plumbing under the house and has more time to move to the septic. <S> On the one nearest the tank, the pipes leading to the tank are already full (groundwater backup) and the toilet contents have nowhere to go. <S> Sometimes I can force the water out with a plunge and get a single flush in, but it doesn't return to normal until after the rain stops. <S> The same thing can happen with upstairs vs downstairs plumbing. <A> Some possibilities, in no order: Vent Blocked <S> Check the vents on your roof for obstructions like trees, plants, birds nests, etc. <S> Damaged Pipes or Tank <S> Water is entering your septic system when it rains though cracks in pipes, seals or the tank itself and overwhelms your leach field. <S> In this scenario, a backup in your house would seem likely to occur eventually. <S> When you are having the flushing problem, check the lowest drains in your house to ensure the sewer is not backing up. <S> Failing Leach Field <S> Your leach field cannot handle the volume of fluid when the ground is wet due to rain and might need replacing. <S> As to why only one toilet is a problem, with the exception of the blocked vent scenario, it is hard to say. <S> I would try flushing the working toilet over and over to see if it slows down or stops as this would help rule out that one fixture or a broader plumbing/septic problem. <A> I have the same problem. <S> We do not have a septic tank but live in a town house condo. <S> The level of toilet water gets very low when it's windy and when it's raining a lot it will not flush. <S> The water goes down very slowly only. <S> I understand the water level in the toilet is because of the vacuum that is caused by the wind over the vent pipe on the roof <S> so I assume this also causes the flushing problem. <S> I live with it however.
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The toilets vent becomes blocked somehow when it rains.
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What is the best way to insulate a room with glass window for winter? Winter is approaching and I have heard that some people insulate glass windows and balcony doors during winter to preserve heat. What materials can I use to do this? I am living in a rented apartment, so I would like to have something which I can easily remove, when it is not needed. <Q> You can build a 2"x2" frame that's 1/2" smaller than the inside window opening, apply shrink insulation film to that and then use 3/8-1/2" foam backer rod to hold it in place in the window opening during winter. <S> This makes a shrink-film internal storm window that's easily removed and if you're careful, just needs a touch-up with the heat gun next winter to re-tauten the insulation film. <S> The backer rod is usually a better product than rubber foam insulation tape for sealing around the outside of this storm window as the backer rod isn't quite so likely to bond to latex paint and saves you from the double-sided tape mess that's involved by applying to the window frame to hold the insulation film. <S> We used these for years till I broke down and did a rip'n replace on the single pane aluminum frame condensation/draft magnets misnamed "Window" that were originally installed. <A> The cheapest solution will probably be to fit some insulation film . <S> You fix this with double sided sticky tape and then use heat (from a hair-dryer) to shrink the film so it becomes taut. <S> There are two disadvantages to this: <S> It's not re-usable, you can't reapply it the next year. <S> The stick tape is hard to remove. <S> A more permanent solution would be to buy a sheet of polycarbonate cut to the size of the window frame and fix that with either screws or magnetic tape to the frame. <S> This European company - 365 Plastics sells complete systems. <S> If you can't find a company closer to you at least you'll know what to buy from other places. <S> The main drawback with this approach is finding somewhere to store the sheets over the summer. <A> Insulated drapes could be a solution that would not spoil the view and be decorative at the same time. <S> There are quilted shades that roll up above the door and seal to a track that is applied to the door casing. <S> Look locally for a business that deals in window treatments or quilted shades. <A> If you're not concerned about letting light through ( <S> in my neck of the woods it's dark when you leave for work and dark when you come home), you could also pick up some sheets of foam board rigid insulation and cut them to fit inside your window cavities. <S> These most commonly come in 4'x8' sheets and many different materials (in order from best insulation value/most expensive <S> to least insulation value/least expensive) <S> Polyisocyanurate (Poly-Iso), Extruded Polystyrene (XPS), Expanded Polystyrene (EPS), etc. <S> For some more details - http://www.homeconstructionimprovement.com/foam-board-insulation-values/ . <S> Most of them have a bit of flex to them <S> so you'd be able to get them to fit fairly tight. <S> Some also come with foil facings which can help direct heat. <S> This product from R-Max is very good - http://www.rmax.com/wall-thermasheath3.asp <S> My father-in-law uses this on his windows every winter to keep things warmer.
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You could also look at using insulation strips in the window and door frames to seal any gaps. Not knowing your location try a home decorating center.
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Why does my shower head drip when the tub faucet is on? I just installed a new tub fixture set: There are two controls - one for temperature and one for volume. The large handle is volume. When the diverter valve is engaged the shower sprays properly and no water comes from the spout: But if I disengage the diverter and run the water at full pressure, the spout flows but there is still a slow shower from the shower head: However, if I reduce volume enough: (note the angle of the volume control)the shower stops dripping: Is something wrong with my installation, or am I right in suspecting that I simply have too much water pressure in my house? I've checked all the plumbing from behind (the wall behind the tub is open) - there are no leaks. <Q> What did you use to connect your tub spout? <S> I plumbed my bathroom with Pex and was heavily cautioned NOT to use Pex to run from the main valve to the tub spout because it would create exactly the issue your describing. <S> Since the inner diameter of Pex is slightly less than regular copper (or threaded brass fittings, which is what I used) <S> it will create a slight flow restriction to the tub spout and (inadvertently) divert it to the shower head. <S> Just a thought... <A> It seems to me that it boils down to the basics... <S> you have a certain volume of water at a certain pressure. <S> If the diverter is fully open, and there is more water coming through than it can handle, then there is overflow going to the shower. <S> The water pressure can't be more than what is available coming in, so that should be regulated for the whole house; if it's too high, valves could fail elsewhere. <S> If it's correct, then this can't really be the problem (directly). <S> So, it must be a matter of pipe sizes or diverter valve capacity. <S> There must either be an obstruction at or after the diverter valve, or the pipe going to the shower is too small and fills up, so to speak. <S> If the pipe going to the shower head was bigger, it would act as a reservoir and take more water before it overflows out the shower head. <S> I don't know if the valves have a way to limit the water. <S> The main question would be whether there is lots of water coming out of both the shower head and the tub outlet when the valve is at the setting that does not come out of the shower head when it shouldn't. <S> Sorry <S> this isn't exactly a full answer, but it's too much to put in a comment, and I thought it might be helpful for troubleshooting the problem. <A> Details about this solution are HERE <S> Make a Loop <A> The volume of water to the tub spout can be too high creating back pressure which leads to water dripping or pouring out of the shower head. <S> To solve this, try using 1/2" brass pipe fittings from the control to the tub spout only. <S> This increased diameter of pipe will allow full flow and prevent any back pressure. <S> I have done this numerous times on all types of controls and it works every time. <S> Decreasing the water pressure at the valve can, and likely will, cause frustration because of the noticeable lack of pressure. <S> Good luck. <A> I had the same problem today and after looking into the pipe connection in the wall that connects the faucet, I noticed that a rubber gasket on the 90 degree elbow was damaged and was prohibiting the proper flow of water. <S> Might be something to check out. <A> It seems to me that you have cartridge problem. <S> Replace it <S> and you would be fine. <S> There is nothing wrong with your pressure or your plumbing. <S> And Oh, Pex is fine.
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It may be that there is simply too much water coming to the shower, and a flow restrictor leading to the valves, or limiter on the valves is needed.
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What would cause the water pressure to be too high for just a second? Lately when I turn on any faucet in my house the water comes rushing out at about twice the normal pressure for about half a second and then drops to normal pressure. I am worried the pressure is building up to high in the pipes. If I turn off the faucet and then turn it back on within a minute the pressure comes out normal. Its only when the water hasn't been used for a while that the pressure seems to have built up in the pipes. I tried turning the pressure down on my pressure regulator by turning the adjustment screw on top one full turn counter clockwise but the water still comes out way too high when the faucets or the clothes washer or shower is first turned on. After a second the pressure drops way down now that I adjusted the regulator. <Q> The problem is your expansion tank, or lack thereof. <S> Your home has a check valve somewhere in the system, possibly included with the pressure regulator or as part of the municipal water meter. <S> When your water heater turns on, the heating of the water causes it to expand, and that pressure has nowhere to release until you open a faucet. <S> What you need is an expansion tank installed in your water lines. <S> If you already have one, then it has failed (they usually have a bladder separating the air from the water, and this can fail over time or if not properly maintained). <S> Installing a tank isn't too difficult, but will require shutting off the water to your house, cutting your pipes, and adding a T to your water line. <S> If you have an existing tank, then they are often threaded and are simple to replace (the connection is often threaded and can be screwed off). <S> Note that if you don't fix this, valves in your toilet and other fixtures will start to fail, or the TPR valve on your hot water <S> heater will begin to leak water. <A> Water pressure on the city side is typically higher than what the consumers (toilet, shower, sinks, etc.) <S> in your house are designed to handle (typically 50-60 psi). <S> When the pressure regulator starts failing it will bleed pressure from the city side into your house lines causing higher than normal water pressure due to a failing diaphragm inside the regulator. <S> Buy a new pressure regulator, install it (super easy) and your problem will be solved. <S> Areas with high city pressure (it's around 90 psi where I live!) <S> typically need a new regulator every 15-20 years. <S> If yours lasted 40, you're very fortunate! <A> user14440 is exactly right. <S> Replace the regulator. <S> I had the same situation. <S> I never had an expansion tank for 25 Years and never had this problem. <S> I messed with my regulator to improve my sprinkler system last summer and shortly after, I started having build up and failed toilet valves. <S> Adjust your pressure valve lower. <S> If the problem persists, replace it. <S> I used the regulator on the main line and turned it down 10 pounds, from 70 to 60 pounds and my problems stopped immediately. <S> No more faulty toilet valves or bursts of pressure from faucets first thing in the morning. <S> You can get a pressure gauge at any hardware store. <S> It screws on to any hose bib or washing machine supply valve.
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You don't need an expansion tank -- your pressure regulator (or pressure reducing valve) needs to be replaced.
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Is an exhaust fan over a gas range required? Are we required to have one in a standard kitchen with a gas range in a residential home? The big question is not how many CFM or ducted or not, just whether there is a requirement in the building codes. I live in New Jersey, US. <Q> Yes, and not only do you need a fan <S> but it must exhaust outside and not just recirculate the air through a carbon filter. <S> You are burning fossil fuels which produces carbon monoxide (among other things). <S> This can kill you if not properly vented. <S> Rather than repeat what is already on this site, per the comments, see this answer for the exact code requirements for exhaust hoods. <A> I am sorry <S> but I disagree with the other answers. <S> Some cities require a window to be in the room if no exhaust (and room is loosely interpreted). <S> For instance the kitchen is in the same room as dining room as long as there is no door separating the two rooms according to local inspectors. <S> Some allow a ceiling fan - go figure. <S> Just saying it isn't required in most places. <S> Should you? <S> Yes. <S> Must you? <S> Ask building inspector. <A> All gas-fired appliances require venting of the products of combustion! <S> Even new appliances produce CO in quantities that can accumulate in the blood stream and cause injury or death. <S> Get the products of combustion out of your house! <A> Ask yourself how often you have actually used the fan above your stove when you you had one. <S> Carbon monoxide detectors ARE required in most places now, that should protect you in the unlikely event you did get a significant amount accumulating in your home.
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While I would always put an exhaust over a gas range, it is not code where I am at. No, it is not required or even much of a hazard to not have one.
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How can I remove a key that has broken off in a lock? I broke a key off in the lock of a desk drawer. The lock doesn't look easily replaceable, so how can I remove it? I've tried tweezers but they can't get enough of a grip to pull it out. <Q> In the past I've used a thin barbecue skewer to extract broken keys, I also found a set of eyeglass screwdrivers handy as well. <S> It all depends on how deep it broke off of course. <S> EDIT: <S> How you use the skewer depends on how the key has broken. <S> Keys are commonly made of cast lightweight metals which have a rough texture with lots of pits outcroppings along the break. <S> What you are trying to do is use the point of the skewer to get into one of those and then use the bottom or top of the lock slit as a fulcrum to pry the key out. <S> Alternatively if you can get the point into the top of the lock above the key you may be able to get the point in front of the rearmost tooth and then use to the top of the lock slit for leverage. <S> It may be useful to have more than one skewer, thin screwdriver, what have you available and use them in conjunction. <A> I had this happen and used a pair of needle nose pliers. <S> I had to buy a set of extra small ones at the store. <S> There is an amazing assortment. <S> I imagine that something like pliers made for electronics would do the trick. <A> <A> You might be able to finesse it out with the tip of a small pocketknife or a dental pick -- try to get the point against the side of the key remnant and drag it out, using as little pressure as possible. <S> If you can move it even a small amount you may be able to repeat enough times to get it to where you can use tweezers or needle nose pliers. <A> Pick up a "Scroll Saw Blade" from your local hardware store. <S> They are nearly identical to a key extractor a locksmith would use. <S> Just break the tip off the blade on the side that the teeth are facing towards. <S> Then slide it in beside the key, turn slightly, and pull out. <S> It may take a few try's but it works like a charm. <S> Then find you a good bottle of bourbon and toast to yourself for saving money!
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A locksmith would use a key extraction tool to remove the key.
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How can I replace a 4-way mechanical switch with occupancy sensor(s)? There is a stairwell in our house, which is currently lit by a fixture controlled by three switches: a 4-way and two 3-ways. The wiring was done very recently and, I'm certain, in accordance to modern code (which may help you figure out the diagram, even if I don't know it). I started with replacing the existing 4-way with a 3-way sensing switch from Lutron ( MS-OPS5M ). Predictably, one of the remaining mechanical switches stopped having any effect whatsoever. I was hoping, the second of the remaining mechanical switches will remain in control to allow explicit control of the light. This proved to be incorrect - sometimes it has an effect, some times it does not, and some times it disables the sensing switch (it clicks, but the light stays off). While the new sensor works perfectly well detecting humans on the same floor, if a person descends the stairs from the upper floor, the light does not go on until one descends to the middle of the stairs - when the feet come to about the same level, where the sensor is. So, it seems, I need either: One occupancy sensor with a sensor looking up as well as sideways. This would, probably, be the easiest and most sensible option. It will let me remove the remaining mechanical switch. or Two occupancy sensors, that can work together - adding the second to where I currently have the semi-functional mechanical switch. This would provide the most complete sensor-coverage. or Figure out, what's wrong with the current setup - why is the existing mechanical switch misbehaving? I'm sure, I miswired something... Should I replace it with a 1-pole switch now, that I only have 2 switches on the circuit? Update: So I tried to follow Lutron's diagram linked to by mac and found it easy to connect the sole red wire on the 3-way mechanical switch to one of the black wires. Unfortunately, that did not improve the situation much. Depending on the position of the (newly rewired) mechanical switch, the sensor either works or it does not. I'm certain, I mis-wired the sensor when replacing the old 4-way switch with it. Could somebody set me straight, please? In addition to ground, there were four wires connected to the 4-way switch (duh!): two red on one side, and two black on the other. The new switch has 3 connectors: one blue and two black. What do I connect to what? <Q> You could use some Insteon (or similar) home automation devices to have two motion sensors control the lights. <S> You'd need two wireless motion sensors and one dual-band switch . <S> The switch receives the wireless signal from the motion sensors and activates the lights. <S> You'd then deactivate the other two existing switches (or add them back as "smart" switches, see below). <S> When one of the motion sensors detects motion, it sends an "on" command to the switch. <S> The only issue with this is that as you add additional motion sensors, you have a race condition to turn the lights off. <S> This is likely not a problem for most scenarios, but if you have a super-long hallway or a giant warehouse that you're trying to cover with multiple occupancy sensors it'd be an issue. <S> Hypothetically, lets say you have an infinitely long hallway with doors every 15 feet. <S> Over each door is a motion sensor, they all control the lights, and they're all programmed to time-out at 1 minute. <S> Someone enters from one end of the hallway triggering sensor "A", which sends an "on" command and starts its internal countdown. <S> As soon as sensor A's one minute timer goes off, sensor "A" sends an "off" command, and the lights go out. <S> This is where a more sophisticated commercial light control network is needed. <S> But if you've just got three doors into a three-floor stairway, the two wireless motion sensors should work fine. <S> If you expected people to linger in the hallway, you may have an issue, though you could just increase the time-out time to try to get around it. <S> You could also add additional Insteon light <S> switches if desired to replace the existing switches--though the motion sensors would still try to turn the lights off on you! <S> NOTE: <S> I've used Insteon products, but am not affiliated with Insteon or Smarthome in any way. <A> I was only able to get it to work with two companion switches. <S> The Lutron series does not work properly with two occupancy sensors. <S> My goal was to get the apt on top and the entry way to have the lights turn on when the tenant or person entering opens the door. <S> I like the lutron; works really well and turns on only when needed if its truly dark. <S> This is how its the four way with companions would be wired <S> (source: tyronnephotography.com ) <S> See the diagram and the description for 4-way. <S> http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/048435.pdf <A> You cannot replace a 4-way switch with the sensor you have. <S> The sensor you are using can either function as a 2-way or 3-way switch, it does not function as a 4-way switch. <S> This is what a typical 4-way circuit looks like. <S> Notice <S> there are two 3-way switches (on the ends), and a single 4-way switch (in the middle). <S> Which as you've found, does not work. <S> If you no longer require all the switches, you can definitely remove one (or all) of them from the circuit. <S> You'll just have to splice the wires together properly in the removed device box, and cover the box with a blank cover plate. <S> Remove a 3-way switch <S> You can remove either of the 3-way switches, but then you'll have to swap out the 4-way switch with a 3-way switch. <S> Remove the 4-way switch Removing the 4-way switch is even easier, all you have to do is splice the wires together. <S> This blog post might help you understand how switches work.
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The motion sensor then starts an internal timer and if it does not see motion again before the timer expires, it sends an "off" command to the switch. You're trying to replace the 4-way switch, with a 3-way switch. As they walk down the infinitely long hallway, they trigger a new sensor every 15 feet or so, each sending its own "on" command. Your only option is to replace one, or both of the 3-way switches with occupancy sensors.
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How do I prepare this exterior concrete wall for paint? I have a an exterior concrete wall that had some loose paint and started scraping away. The paint in some sections was so loose that I went all the way to the bare concrete, peeling away over 6 layers of paint. I'm worried that If I paint the wall, it will still show the deep areas. What should I do to cover this properly and what paint should I use? Should I use some heavy primer coats on the bare concrete areas first then paint as normal or just use paint with included primer and paint it? This is a portion of the exterior wall scraped to the bare cement. More Pics <Q> It sounds as if a number of different people over the years have been putting off the dreaded inevitable conclusion that you should completely scrape and remove paint from the entire surface and repaint it with a proper exterior enamel approved for concrete. <S> When scraping paint always make sure to wear a dust mask as one of those layers may be lead based paint and it would be extraordinarily bad to breathe this in. <S> When scraping keep children, animals and pregnant women away as they are particularly susceptible to ill effects from lead exposure. <S> Most hardware stores sell lead testing kits that will let you know if any of this scraped paint dust contains lead. <S> A word of caution though that if you happen to verify and know that lead is in the paint then if you ever go to sell the place that you would be legally obliged to add this information to the sellers disclosure. <S> Sometimes it is better to just treat the paint dust as if it contains lead and not know for your own sake. <A> Since this is exterior, I would be tempted to use a power washer (you can rent one if you don't already own it): <S> Just be careful around cracks since you can make them worse or force water into the wall. <S> It's also important that you pay attention to the pressure and the distance from the surface so that you just barely flake off the paint without damaging the concrete below. <S> Then, you'll want to repair any cracks or damage (hydraulic cement is useful for this task) and apply an exterior grade primer that's designed for masonry. <S> The wall needs to be able to breath so that moisture can't get trapped inside, freeze, and cause flaking or cracking. <A> The right way, is the hard way, as always. <S> Remove all the paint off the wall, using a scraper, or a heat torch, or a paint remover. <S> Sand paper all the wall. <S> Remove all the dust from the wall and wipe <S> it clean. <S> Do many layers of sealer or primer. <S> Let it dry for 24 hours. <S> Do many layers of good quality paint. <S> Let it dry for 24 hours.
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If there is six or seven layers of paint over the concrete then it will be sufficiently thick to be noticeable if you attempt to just scrape a single area and paint.
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How can I seal around this pipe on my roof? I have a PVC furnace exhaust pipe coming out through my roof. Unfortunately, the guy who installed it used the wrong size flange. So instead of the rubber rising upwards against the pipe, it is sunken downwards, and water puddles in the depression and eventually drips inside. I tried using roof sealant caulk, but it didn't do the job. Is there some kind of thick, sticky sealant that I could drop in there to solve the leak? <Q> Sounds like you should just get the right sized pipe boot rather than trying to glue the wrong sized pieces together. <A> You could either lift the edge of the old dektite(boot) up and silicon it to the pipe <S> Get a new Dektite (boot) and cut the bottom of it using it as a apron flashing over the old boot, by pulling it over the bend and over the old boot (Most professional way without totally removing the old boot) <S> Get a weathering apron cut the bend off the top of the pipe side the apron on and glue it in place over the dektite (boot) <S> then glue the bend back on the opposite way to which it was (eg. <S> saves buying a new bend) <S> Remove the old dektite and replace it with a new one (preferably with a aluminum/poly base instead of just rubber as the old one is) <A> Just get a tube of good quality silicon caulking and fill that entire area and create a positive slope for water run off. <S> Tool the caulking around the PVC pipe and you're finished. <S> It really is as simple as that. <A> Cut the PVC pipe just below the elbow. <S> Slip a proper sized flashing on. <S> Ensure it drapes "like a woman's dress" over the old flashing. <S> Flip the elbow over, and cement the elbow back on. <S> But if you were in a situation were the elbow could not be cut, then you'd want sticky roofing tape. <S> This has much more structure than a tar like substance, and far easier to work with than a caulk. <S> Use Black Jack only if you're a Realtor trying to flip the house.
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Drill a small hole in the old flashing so any condensation can vent away, then apply the tape: After you install the roofing tape, you can use silicone caulk on the top edges just to be sure. Black Jack will not work for long: it gets hard then starts pulling away from the pipe.
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Is it typical for the metal of corner bead to be exposed after it is finished being mudded? I hired a company to finish the drywall job in my room. One of the things that sticks out like a sore thumb is the exposed edges of corner bead. I have never seen corner bead exposed like this. Isn't it supposed to be covered with a coat of mud or are you actually supposed to paint over it? <Q> Examine any corner in any building and you'll find that the paint is on plaster, not metal. <S> (Interior paint - even with primer - will scrape off of metal way too easily) <S> In short - your drywallers <S> (if these are the same guys who botched all the screws) suck. <A> This may be downvoted, as I may be way off base (and if so, please do!), but... <S> A pure plaster corner would obviously be smashed once something runs into it. <S> Hence, the metal bead corners. <S> The bead on the far outside of the corner is ever-so-slightly rounded and raised compared to the 'flange' of the corner, which is then embedded in mud. <S> This raised edge is basically the 'form' for the top coats of mud. <S> As the knife will 'ride' the bead, it will always be ever-so-slightly exposed on the outside-most edge. <S> And then, in the end, it's covered in paint. <S> Some have suggested that there should be a thin layer of mud completely covering the outside of the corner. <S> My concern with that is: <S> it's hard to do since knife would be 'floating' above the actual bead <S> the thin layer of mud would be much more likely to damage if bumped and... as such, a lot harder to patch if it is bumped <S> In summary: I've always left the outside-most edge of the corner bead exposed and then paint over it. <S> I've never had an issue with that myself <S> (but I'm also not a professional sheetrocker...) <A> Outside edge should be clearly visible considering that's plain of the wall,but just the rounded bead itself. <S> To float over it one might consider not even using a corner beings it will chip off the first time you sneeze. <A> I have to disagree with The Evil Greebo. <S> The fact is that first off, metal edged corner bead is rarely used by professionals. <S> When it is used, it's most often due to imperfections with the drywall (e.g. straighten out a not-quite-straight corner). <S> I can't tell from that photo if that's an inside or outside corner. <S> If it's an inside corner then the metal should have been covered. <S> As I said, it's rare to see these. <S> One area where it's more likely though is with regards to ceilings, and particularly soffits - areas where uniformity of various drywall sheets is more likely to be an issue. <S> As long as your edges are sanded well, use a good quality primer and paint, and it won't matter. <S> You will not notice the difference. <S> If in the future something gets damaged, the end result will be the same. <S> A very thin layer of mud is not going to protect anything. <S> Caveat: I've installed paper, plastic, metal, nailed/glued/pressed corner bead. <S> They all have their uses, pros & cons. <S> Put it this way: there is a reason for all that variety in the drywall aisle at Home Depot. :D
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The plaster is supposed to just cover the metal corner, neatly. My understanding of the metal corners is that corners get bumped. If it's an outside corner (as I suspect), it can be very difficult to cover it with mud. If this happens to you, I wouldn't sweat it.
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How do I fill holes around a newly fitted ceiling light socket? I'm replacing a ceiling light that when fitted will leave gaps / holes in the ceiling where the existing socket hole is. The previous light was bigger and had a sensible amount of room for the wiring to be comfortably housed. The new fitting is effectively the shape of a polo mint about 200cm diameter and about 30cm thick. In other words very awkward to mount and doesn't cover the previous hole. I have two problems. The hole in the ceiling and the recess in the light fitting means it's the wiring is going to be pretty cramped by the time its fitted but the biggest issue is how do I fill the hole so I can make a decent finish.Hope someone can help?? <Q> They come in various sizes and styles, can be painted and are usually held in place with a little glue or drywall screws. <S> Something like this is much more decorative. <A> If you don't want to cover it with a medallion as the other answer suggests (a great answer, and popular practice in old houses) you will end up having to paint, so you might as well just fix the drywall properly. <S> Cut a square around the fixture using a utility knife (scoring it repeatedly) or a drywall saw (being careful to avoid the wires). <S> Ideally you should cut it <S> so you expose a half a joist on two sides, e.g. cut all the way back to the edges of the nearest joists on either side. <S> This is a pretty good example, but you only need to open up one joist bay. <S> Reinstall the square, tape, mud & sand. <S> While the ceiling is open, you could replace the box with something bigger to solve your other problem. <S> Picture from knoji.com <S> which provides more detail on general drywall repair. <A> Depends on the gaps involved, I replaced the electrical boxes in our ceilings as the old nail-on 70s boxes were flimsy, the holes through the ceiling were either off center or had broken edges where the plasterboard had chipped out due to poor cutting technique. <S> The new boxes were flush mounted to the ceiling surface and unmovable once fastened down. <S> I used mesh joint tape to bridge the gaps on the attic side and mixed up Plaster of Paris, pressing it through the joint tape to completely fill the gaps. <S> After letting it set, I attacked it from the room side with more Plaster of Paris and a narrow putty knife to create a smooth surface that feathered into the ceiling. <S> It filled gaps up to 1/2" very well and was necessary as the new suspended glass ceiling lamps I'd chosen covered the box with an escutcheon plate 1/4 inch larger than the electrical box and would have left unsightly gaps with attendant heat loss had I retained the old boxes.
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Then cut a piece of drywall the same size, and measure the location of your fixture, and cut that out precisely. You could use something like this.
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What tools do I need to make a straight cut in laminated chipboard? It's 38mm thick. Next week I will need to cut it along a straight line, and I would like the cut to be as straight and clean as possible. What tools do I need to do this ? <Q> You can make straight cuts parallel to an existing edge by using a circular saw with a guide. <S> To make the bottom edge of the cut clean, be sure the saw does not cut much more deeply than the thickness of the material. <S> You can also put tape on the cut line, before cutting, to prevent the saw from breaking off small pieces of the material on the top edge of the cut. <A> If you want to rip it (cut it on its long dimension), the only way to be sure it is straight is to use a table saw: If you want to cross cut it (on its short dimension), you can do that with a miter saw if the piece is not too wide: <S> If you are confident in your abilities and it does not need to be exactly straight, you can make a line with a chalk line and use a jigsaw with an extremely fine blade (to avoid splintering the wood): <A> You need a very sharp high tooth count carbide toothed blade. <S> to achieve a smooth cut will require some planning. <S> You need to push the saw through the material at a steady rate as fast as possible without forcing the saw. <S> Make sure you can make the cut in one go. <S> If you stop there will be an imperfection there. <S> Before starting the cut make sure your cord will not get caught as you push the saw through. <S> This is a common error and will create an F-up when the cord stops your forward motion. <S> It is not as hard as it may sound. <S> The main thing is to understand that the best cut comes from a smooth and consistent motion through the cut. <S> Use a guide, and don't push too hard against it. <S> The secret is to find a comfortable way to stand and move through the cut. <S> If you have extra material it is a good idea to practice once or twice.
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The only way to make this a smooth cut is with a circular saw, either hand held or a table saw.
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What should I do to prevent mold from flooding? Thanks to old plumbing, my upstairs toilet has flooded the bathroom -- and it's dripped all the way down to the downstairs bedroom, where it's soaked into the carpet there as well. I've got buckets and towels; however, I'm highly allergic to mold and mildew. What can I do to prevent the growth of mold? Note: This is a rental situation, so anything involving ripping up the floor to get at insulation will require the landlord's approval and thus will take a few days at least, so non-invasive methods are preferred. <Q> What you describe requires major plumbing work and can cause devastating damage to your home. <S> Your landlords refusal to fix this on his own is creating a health hazard for you, and in many countries and states there are laws that protect tenants and give them certain rights in a landlord-tenant relationship. <S> One of these rights is the right to a safe and hazard free home, which means you can and should be able to bring suit against the landlord in the event where he refuses to fix a situation with the property that is creating a signficant health hazard for you and your family. <S> To get rid of the mildew, talk to your landlord and tell him to fix the leak immediately. <A> The sooner your get rid of the moisture, the less risk of mold. <S> A big blower and a dehumidifier is the best thing to do and are easily obtainable. <S> You can probably rent a big unit from your local home improvement store for relatively cheap; you won't need it very long. <A> Obviously step 1 should be to stop more water from leaking. <S> You don't say whether this is an ongoing leak or not, but if the problem is the toilet overflowing the bowl or tank, there is usually a shut-off valve at the toilet water inlet that you could shut. <S> Otherwise, if you have access you could shut off the water where it enters the house, but of course that would stop your entire water supply. <S> (As of now this question is 2 days old, so I sincerely hope the leak has been stopped.) <S> Also, it's definitely in the landlord's best interest to prevent mold, so I personally would tear up carpet and ask permission later. <S> But that depends on your relationship with the landlord.
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Your landlord should be responsible for fixing this because with moisture leaking behind the walls like this then it can quickly create major property damage to his rental unit and unhealthy mold.
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Will low water use toilets clog more? I need a toilet for the bathroom off a master bedroom that's being built in my house. Once when my Mother had a plumber in to fix something else, he told her to hang on to her old fashioned toilet as long as she could - plumbers have far more problems and calls about the new high efficiency toilets. I see that Home Depot and Lowes primarily have 1.23 Gallons per Flush (GPF) toilets in stock, but you can also get 1.6 GPF toilets. According to Consumer's Reports, more water sometimes (but not always) means better flushing. And all of their best rated toilets use 1.6 GPF. Should I go for the 1.6 GPF toilet to avoid problems and having to clean the toilet as often? Or have the 1.28 GPF toilets improved enough to use one of those instead? I live in Minnesota where water usage isn't as big of an issue as it is in California. <Q> Some of the low volume toilets manage to flush very quickly because of newer designs. <S> Some of it has to do with coatings on the bowl, and the pathways inside of the toilet. <S> But one change that makes a large difference is a larger flapper and opening that allows the water to drain much faster (the only downside is that you'll need special replacement parts in the future). <S> The last time I was shopping for toilets, they had a rating of how powerful the flush was in each toilet, which is much more useful than the gallons per flush. <S> My newest toilet flushes much better than any of the older toilets, while using much less water. <A> More GPF is usually better for disposing waste, but it's less environment friendly. <S> If you don't mind that little bit of extra water and sewage costs, go for the toilet that's more comfortable for you. <S> Also, it's always a good idea to get a tank with dual flushing system (I don't know if you have any others, I'm not from the USA). <A> TLDR: <S> It's the shape of the bowl and not the volume of water that determines clogging. <S> There are 3 types of flushing toilet pans: Siphonic (washout) <S> The siphonic toilet has a higher water level and uses a siphoning wash to "suck" out excrement. <S> If you're in North America, this is probably what you're using. <S> It has a narrower flow and is prone to clogging. <S> "European" (wash down) <S> The wash down has a shallow water level with a wide flow. <S> It used the fast moving water to "push" out the excrement. <S> If you're in a "civilised" country, you're probably using this and wondering how anyone could clog a toilet. <S> Reverse/shelf <S> /German Don't use this. <S> Don't even look up information about it... <S> it's like a nightmare. <S> Personal recommendation <S> I live in a "civilised" country where "wash down" is the standard <S> - I'm a big fat man <S> and I... use toilets to their full extent, if you know what I mean. <S> But I have <S> NEVER clogged a wash down toilet <S> and I didn't understand how anyone could clog a toilet until I travelled to America, then I understood how easy it is. <S> If you want a toilet that doesn't clog, get a wash down and not a siphoning pan. <A> 1.6 GPF can be adjusted to save water such as adjusting the water level but 1.28 GPF has no option to carry more water. <S> Therefore, never buy 1.28 GPF but 1.6. <A> My son-in-law told me of some people who bought .8 gpf toilets and there house sewer line clogged due to not enough water to move solid waste out into the sewer system. <S> They had to instal toilets using more water again. <S> I bought an American Standard Titan (Menards version of the Champion 4) using 1.6 gpf. <S> A second function of water when flushing is to move the waste down the sewer pipe. <S> Older homes often have cast iron pipes that offer more resistance to waste flow. <S> American Standard has designed the toilet trapway to be 2 3/8" in diameter, the widest I have seen. <S> Some toilet trapways are only 2" in diameter. <S> The extra diameter of the trapway can carry more waste. <S> The 4 in the Champion 4 means 4" diameter toilet tank drain into the toilet bowl. <S> Additionally the toilet uses a piston valve so water rushes in from all sides much like the Kohler design. <S> In over a years time I have not had significant plugging issues and I use a lot of toilet paper. <S> The few times the toilet has clogged no plunging was necessary. <S> I simply reflush and the toilet cleared itself. <S> My advice is to get the most water per flush and to go with a 4 inch flush valve made of a piston to maximize water flow. <S> Newer homes have pvc pipes and plumbers can lay out the piping for lower water use toilets. <S> Then you can look into a 1.28 gpf toilet but be aware the lower water use can result in less "cleaning" of the bowel. <A> I always think that I can’t do much with the toilet, but I can with the design of the sewage system. <S> I like the sewer pipe installed with as much slope as possible, (up to a point...anything over 2” per foot is unnecessary and could cause the solids to separate from the liquids). <S> I also like the toilet “ahead” of the tub and shower in the sewer drain system. <S> That way, when the tub is drained, it will “wash” the pipe clean. <S> However, (as everyone has mentioned) the more water in the flushing cycle, the better. <A> I installed a Home Depot Glacier Bay 1.28 gal toilet in my vacation rental and have had to have it professionally unclogged 3 times in 12 months. <S> If you hit the flush valve handle quickly and don't hold it down for a few seconds, the flapper closes before the tank has a chance to drain <S> it's 1.28 gallons. <S> I'm going to change out the stock flapper assembly (which leaves 3.75" of water in the bottom of the take when you do hold it down!) <S> with an after market model that will make it a 1.6 toilet again. <S> Also, don't ever buy a toilet with the push buttons on the top lid. <S> The side flush handle has worked well for 100 years. <S> Putting it in the lid is ridiculous!
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A plumber told me the more water the better as far as toilet reliability.
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Is torn kraft paper vapor retarder in the attic a problem? I'm adding additional insulation in my attic. Unfortunately, I tore the kraft paper vapor barrier of the existing fiberglass insulation in many places while air sealing. Is this a problem? Or is this simply what happens when you air seal? Do I need to replace the insulation where the kraft paper is torn? More Detail: I live in Maryland. The vapor retarder (kraft paper) is facing toward the conditioned side. The house was built in 1967, so I had to pull up the existing insulation in order to air seal. As the kraft paper tabs on the existing insulation are stapled, I inevitably ended up with a lot of tears around light junction boxes, top plates, etc. <Q> The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from condensing in the insulation, greatly reducing it's insulating value. <S> To do this, it must be placed on the warm side of the insulation. <S> In cold and moderate climates, this is towards the living space. <S> In hot humid climates where keeping the living area cool is the primary concern, it goes towards the weayther side. <S> It sounds like in your case <S> the paper is on the top, weather side. <S> If you are in a hot humid climate and you are adding more insulation on top, you WANT to have many holes in the old barrier that is now sandwiched inside all the insulation, allowing any moisture that got past the new barrier on top to hopefully get carried out without condensing. <S> If you are in a cold or moderate climate, and it is on top, it was installed wrong. <S> You're better off having holes in it. <S> Any moisture that got that far should be allowed to escape, lest it condense on the paper and make the insulation wet. <S> To summarize, in either climate, if the paper is on top of the old, and you are adding more insulation, put all the holes in it <S> you can! <S> It is not helping. <S> In a hot humid climate, insure you place a new barrier on top of your new insulation. <S> If you are in a cold or moderate climate, consider how you may add a vapor barrier to the living space. <S> Several heavy coats of latex paint can do this. <A> You can use Tyvek tape (or Tuck tape in Canada) to seal any tears in the paper. <S> bcworks's answer is right about not wanting multiple vapor barriers, and that your only vapor barrier should be on the conditioned side of the insulation (closest to the inside of your home). <S> However, if your existing vapor barrier is in bad shape, I wouldn't rely on paint inside of your home to act as a barrier. <S> You have openings in the wall for outlets and plumbing, interior walls that will have holes drilled in them for wiring, etc. <S> Instead, if your insulation is improperly installed or the vapor barrier is beyond repair, I'd suggest pulling up the old insulation temporarily and putting down a plastic barrier between the joists. <S> Whenever you are installing insulation where there's an existing vapor barrier, there's no need to try cutting lots of holes in it, just peal it off and throw it away. <S> Also, when layering up rolled fiberglass insulation in an attic, lay the second layer perpendicular to the first layer (and the first layer should be between the joists). <S> This reduces the risk of air gaps on the edges of the insulation. <A> I contacted Johns Manville and this is what they sent me: "To ensure maximum resistance to vapor migration, the insulation should be installed such that the facing is in substantial contact with the attic floor substrate and butted together well enough to ensure there are no gaps between the batts. <S> Vapor barriers are "area weighted", <S> therefore seams where the batts meet in addition to the joint between the sides of the batt and studs are not expected to let excessive amounts of moisture through the assembly. <S> Batts should be butted as close together to minimize opening where leakage might occur. <S> Be sure to replace any missing kraft paper and lay it down around the boxes, pipe, etc as best as possible."
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In the winter, humidity levels will be higher inside of your home and without a proper vapor barrier, moisture will travel through the insulation and condense on the cold side of the insulation, to putting a vapor barrier towards the outside does no good. It may be something you already have.
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Can I substitute diesel for home heating oil? I ran out of oil in my home, and a plumber friend said that I could add diesel from the gas station while I wait for my oil delivery. Is he right? <Q> Yes, no2 heating oil is pretty similar to diesel. <S> Just less clean and usually dyed red. <A> Yeah, it's perfectly fine to put diesel in your oil tank, but for legal/tax reasons, it's not ok to put home heating oil in your diesel engine <A> Yes, diesel will work fine in an oil heater. <S> But don't try to put heating oil in a diesel vehicle. <S> It's illegal and will get you slapped with a $10k fine if you get caught. <S> Heating oil has a horrible cetane rating (in addition to lack of detergents and poor lubrication properties, and possibly higher sulfur content) and will make your engine run horribly and may damage it.
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So yes, it's ok to put diesel in your oil tank.
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How to fix broken toilet flange from over tightened bolt? I broke my PVC toilet flange when I over-tightened the bolt used to secure the toilet to the flange. How do I fix this without replacing the entire PVC fitting? This PVC flange is glued to the drain pipe so I can't just pull out the fitting to replace it. Here is what it looks like, the red circle shows where the bolt was that snapped the flange. <Q> You can purchase a toilet flange repair at any big box hardware store. <S> Remove the wax ring (buy a new one), remove the bolts, and mount this on top of the existing broken flange: Then reattach the toilet as per normal, making sure not to over tighten. <S> Tip, seat the toilet firmly on the wax ring before you tighten the bolts, and use a STANDARD sized wax ring not a jumbo - if the toilet starts out firmly on the floor before you start tightening then <S> you know you're tight enough when the washer starts to bend in just a little. <A> That is, if you have a wood floor under the flange. <A> I drilled down through the floor and installed carriage bolts through the floor with nuts on them.
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You may also be able to get toilet bolts that screw into the wood.
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How to fix a leaking bath tub overflow drain? My bath tub is over the kitchen on the second floor. It appears the bath tub overflow drain leaks a sizeable amount. At times the kids aren't paying attention and the water goes in. The water leaks into the kithcen cabinet below. How best to access the overflow drain to fix this leak? Can I wait for the kitchen remodel and try to access it from below? Thanks in advance for any advice suggestions! <Q> If the leak is occuring where the overflow attaches to the tub you may be able to seal it. <S> Remove the screws that hold the overflow cover in place. <S> Depending on the style it may also contain the tub drain lever. <S> With the cover removed you may be able to see the contact point between the tub and the seal. <S> Try to fill the entire sealing surface with "Plumbers Putty". <S> Replace the cover as it will pull the overflow pipe and the tub together. <S> If that doesn't work try this product http://www.theplumbinginfo.com/remove-replace-repair-bath-tub-overflow/ . <S> I haven't tried it <S> but it looks like it beats tearing walls apart. <S> As an alternative open up the wall behind the tub and after the repair leave an access panel so ot will be easier next time. <A> You definitely don't want water leaking inside your walls because it will promote the growth of mold which can affect the health of your family members. <S> It doesn't take very long for mold to grow, and once it is there, it is very hard to get rid of completely. <S> I was recently exposed to some black mold while I was remodeling my bathroom <S> and I ended up getting extremely ill from it. <S> Your best bet would be to open up the wall behind the tub and the ceiling below to gain full access to the plumbing. <S> Without being able to inspect the plumbing, you would only be guessing where the leak was. <S> That is the only way that you could guarantee that the source of the leak has been fixed. <S> This would also be a good time to inspect the rest of the plumbing inside the wall. <S> There could possibly be more leaks there that you are unaware of. <A> The culprit is likely the gasket on the overflow. <S> You access that gasket by removing the plate covering the overflow, no need to open a wall. <S> Check the gasket and if it looks worn or is cracked, etc., buy a new gasket. <S> You must remove the old gasket first before placing the new gasket. <S> Then reassemble the plate/drain control.
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In this kind of situation, it would be best to replace the entire drain assembly right back to the tub trap.
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How do I choose more durable screwdriver bits? I recently bought a $35 cordless screwdriver that came in a suitcase with screwdriver bits. I was in shock when the Pozidriv bit splintered after screwing only 3 1-inch screws in the leg of an unvarnished wooden ladder. After the initial shock, I used the other Pozidriv sizes but not surprisingly, they all splintered after screwing a few screws. Now all the Pozidriv bits are dulled out and completely unusable. Can anybody tell me what these screw bits are made out of so I will not make the same mistake twice ? Any suggestions about which metal bits to buy? Do titanium-coated bits wear out soon? How soon? What about chromium-radium bits? <Q> I think the bits as basically very low quality. <S> Be careful what kind of jobs you tackle with your light duty screwdriver. <S> I'm sure it does not have the power to drive longer screws into hard woods like decking etc. <S> You have to hold a lot of force against the screw in these situations or the bit will slip, spin and dull, as well as strip out the screw head. <A> Think of it this way; is it easier to replace a broken bit or remove a screw with a stripped out head? <S> It is always easier to replace the bit. <S> It sounds like you may need to work on your technique a little. <S> Bits shatter like you are describing from the shock received from coming to a quick stop at the end of its travel. <S> It is best to ease the screw in the last bit by slowing the drill and applying extra force at the back of the drill. <S> Do not run the screw in as fast as you can and smack the bit when the screw reaches full depth. <S> You want to control the depth the head penetrates as well by slowing and pushing as you reach full depth. <S> Another mistake noobies make is to run the bit in the screw without turning the screw. <S> This is pointless and does damage the bit and screw. <S> Do not do it. <S> If the screw does not turn do not "rattle" the bit in the screw head. <S> Sometimes people think they can hammer the screw home this way and it does not work. <S> If a screw gets stuck without being fully driven back it out part way and while pushing firmly at the back of the drill slowly increase trigger speed until the screw turns and goes in all the way. <S> If a screw will not go in after that then you probably need to drill a pilot hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the threaded portion of the screw. <S> This brings up a possibility for you; are you using a variable speed drill? <S> A single speed drill will be very difficult to drive screws with and could result in broken bits since you can not adjust the speed to fit the situation. <S> Finally, if you are depending on speed to drive the screw you are not in control of the situation. <S> The important thing is to push hard at the back of the drill and use the speed that is appropriate. <S> If you are on a ladder or drilling above your head you may need to reposition to get enough force directly in line with the screw travel. <A> As @shirlock homes has stated it sounds like a low quality bit. <S> I am unsure of the durability of the coated bits you mentioned as it is often a marketing ploy. <S> Some manufacturers coat a low quality bit in an exotic sounding material. <S> What you get is a cheap bit with a very thin layer coating it. <S> If you haven't noticed the major "Pro" lines don't make these coated bits. <S> I have also had issues with multi-drive screws. <S> They have a combination head, square/phillips/pozidrive. <S> The drivers all seem to fit poorly and round the bit or the head. <S> I would reccomend buying quality drivers as you need them or a quality set of mixed drivers. <S> The quality set may cost half of what you paid for your screwdriver, but it should last for years. <A> You might need to make sure that you were not using Pozidriv bits on standard Phillips screws. <S> For hand-used tools, coating won't help much if the bits themselves have low quality. <S> Basically it's all about torque and HRC. <S> For example, if the bits are made of #45 steel, even after heat treatment, its HRC is still low and can be easily worn. <S> A case like yours might use far worse material. <S> But if it's made of S2 steel and processed with heat treatment, the HRC can reach 60+. <S> Bits like that can break apart quenched screws.
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When you go to your favorite store, simply buy one of the contractor grade of bits like DeWalt, Kolbalt, Irwin, Vermont American etc.
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Can a cheap angle grinder be used to cut concrete and ceramic tiles? I am interested in the Black & Decker KG100 600W Angle Grinder because it is cheap enough. I will only use it occasionally for small scale do-it-yourself home improvement works. But, I really need one that can cut ceramic tiles and concrete. I don't mind about the performance. Are all angle grinder regardless of price and power rating suitable for cutting ceramic tiles and concrete? In particular the B&D KG100 I mentioned above. I'll use it only occasionally, so I don't mind waiting for a long time for it to finish the work. Other B&D models are 50%-100% more expensive and the power ratings are not much different(~600W-700W). So I'm wondering why that particular model is so cheap. <Q> In most cases the cost is directly related to expected durability. <S> In expensive commercial/professional grade tools, parts spin on ball bearings and motors are more powerful. <S> They are designed to run allday every day at maximum speed where time is money. <S> Home owner grade tools typically are designed to be used for brief periods of time and at less than maximum performance levels for the majority of their use. <S> They contain less powerful motors and parts spin on bushings instead of bearings. <S> In most cases they will last a long time as long as you respect the design limitations of the tool. <S> If it starts to get warm while using it stop work and let it cool a while. <S> Don't force the tool if it starts to bog down back off the pressure and let the tool do the work. <S> I have a 10 year old $30 grinder that I cut over 100 slate floor tiles with and it is still running strong. <A> It looks like a fine tool for using occasionally. <S> One reson for some tools being a lot more expensive are that they are intended for professional use. <S> For cutting concrete is seems that you just need a special blade: <S> http://www.nortonconsumer.com/concrete-cutting.aspx <S> There is a recommended maximum RPM of 12000 for cutting concrete with a blade of that size, and the KG100 does 11000, so that seems ideal. <S> For cutting creamic tiles you would need a wet saw, but on the other hand you can just score it with a glass cutter for straight cuts: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/damagedtiles#.ULKG9YbcyM8 <A> It depends what you mean by "cut tiles." <S> Certainly an angle grinder has sufficient power to turn a disc of abrasive material and force it into a ceramic or concerete tile. <S> But it will probably perform very poorly compared to a wet saw for two reasons: 1) <S> It's not guided in any way. <S> A tile saw is set up like a table saw, you push the tile into a diamond-edged blade. <S> It's probably also quite dangerous. <S> 2) <S> It's not cooled. <S> A wet saw uses water to keep the blade cool. <S> The consequences of this are that the "blade" or abrasive disc on the grinder would wear very quickly when cutting an extremely hard substance such as a ceramic tile. <S> If your needs are really basic, then I'd just get a manual tile cutter for straight cuts and/or a tile nipper for anything else. <S> On the other hand a cheap tile saw is actually really cheap . <S> Cheaper than an angle grinder, and far cheaper than an angle grinder + a diamond blade. <S> I think this is one of those situations where it makes a lot of sense to use the right tool. <S> I've done a lot of tiling with low-end tile saws. <S> They really work fine for light-duty work. <S> I'm sure it wouldn't hold up well in heavy-duty use, but for the occasional tiling job, they work fine.
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Because tiles are very brittle, it would be extremely difficult to cut one with any kind of precision (and without breaking it) using a handheld tool.
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What to do with these tiny exposed wires? We discovered a non-functional smoke detector that's hard-wired into the electrical system of the house we recently bought. I removed the smoke detector and am replacing it with a battery operated one. But there is one set of 4 small wires hanging out of the ceiling. They all run through one single wrap. The colors are black, red, green and yellow. The hole in the ceiling is small. I won't be able to cap each wire and push it back through. Not sure if they can all be capped together into one wire nut or what.... <Q> Those wire colors (black, red, green and yellow) are commonly found in the wiring for security systems; smoke detectors that hardwire into security systems typically run on 12VDC or 24VDC, unlike the 120VAC detectors that you generally find at home improvement stores. <S> I'm guessing the wires are stranded instead of solid core (like mains wiring) and of a smaller gauge wire. <S> Another clue is that there's a small hole in the ceiling; if it was a 120V detector, there should be a ceiling box, and the wires would be colored black and white, possibly with a third, red, insulated wire, and probably a bare copper wire for ground. <S> Since this smoke detector isn't working, the security system may have been disconnected or removed. <S> Do you have other smoke detectors in the house, and do they work? <S> What about other security system components like motion detectors, glassbreaks, the control panel and/or keyboard? <S> I would seal the hole with some expanding foam to prevent air leaks into the ceiling, then wrap each exposed wire individually with electrical tape and just leave them behind the base plate for the new detector. <A> As someone who has had smoke detectors save his house twice please rethink your plan. <S> The big advantage to the electric detectors are they are wired together, one goes off,they all go off. <S> The cost of having the electrician come back is minimal to the added benifit. <S> There is also the chance that modifications to the wiring may make them all inoperative. <A> If the old security system is gone, you should be able to just push the wires, uncapped, into the wall. <S> If you want to be really smart about it, wrap them in electrical tape before you do and leave a tiny bit protruding out the hold and taped flat to the wall so you can retrieve them at a later date if you choose.
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Use a multimeter to check that there's no voltage between any of the wires; the supply for the detector was probably on the red and black, but check all the combinations to be sure.
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How do I remove blown in attic insulation? I want to replace the drywall ceiling in my house. It's old and has been painted over a million times. Home was built in the 50s. How do I replace the ceiling without replacing the insulation? Or if I take out the insulation to replace it with new, is there a best way of doing it? Insulation is all blown in cellulose. Thought about just shoveling it into bags and into a dumpster. That would take a while. Home is one story. 950 sq ft. Seattle area. <Q> Maybe you should consider putting a layer of 3/8" sheetrock over the existing ceiling. <S> Find the strapping or ceiling joists, mark them on the wall, them go right over the old damaged ceilings. <S> This will save you a ton of work and mess, and not waste the insulation. <S> With the money you save, install extra insulation! <A> So here is what I did. <S> I cut 3 ft x 3 ft square holes in the ceiling. <S> Then I made multiple plastic bags, each out of one 10 x 25 sheet of plastic. <S> Used packaging tape to tape up both sides of the "bag". <S> Then I attached the bag to the hole using lots and lots of staples. <S> In my 1000 sq. <S> foot home <S> I had 5 holes cut at different points in the house. <S> Then I spent three nights in the attic digging out insulation with a small but long rake and dumping it down the holes. <S> The most time-consuming part was creating and stapling up the bags. <S> I probably spent 10 hours in the attic actually cleaning out the attic. <S> The rest of the time was spent taping the bags and attaching them to the holes. <S> If I'd had someone else with me taping bags while I filled other bags, it would have gone much better. <S> Also, I would get knee pads for kneeling on joists. <S> And a board about 4 ft. by 1 ft. to sit or lay on while you're reaching for insulation tucked away in corners. <S> I used goggles, respirator, head lamp, and 3m disposable coveralls with hood. <S> Do not attempt this in the summer. <S> I did it at the beginning of December <S> and it was bad. <S> I did not encounter any rodents, or insect nests. <S> Luckily, I did it right after a home inspector had been through the attic <S> so I was pretty sure nothing was living up there. <S> When I was done, I cut the bags down, sealed the top with more tape, and rolled them out of the house into the dumpster in my front yard. <S> I had to call two friends to help me get one of them out. <A> Basically, a leafrake and garbage bags. <S> No vacuum cleaner has enough capacity or is clog proof enough. <S> They make cyclone converters for steel garbage cans for use with sawdust removal around woodworking equipment, but keeping the stuff moving through the hose into the can is a major part of the operation. <S> If you attempt to use a plastic garbage can, you will have massive static buildup. <S> So I got two leaf rakes, removed the handle on one of them for close in operation, and then got one of the smaller flowerbed rakes. <S> Mine was blown in fiberglass, nasty stuff that required a respirator and tight fitting gogles in addition to gloves and thick sleeves. <S> Dust still gets everywhere. <A> Professional, this is done with a glorified vacuum cleaner. <S> But why not just slap a new layer of drywall under the existing ceiling? <S> Or patch it <S> : houses patch really well, and lathe & plaster is reparable even on ceiling and even if sagging. <A> Get hooks and a tarp with rope through eye holes. <S> Hang the tarp with the eye holes, use a huge tarp that hangs enough to turn it in to a big bag. <S> Go up there with a blower. <S> Put it against a the end <S> so you don't blow past the hole in the ceiling. <A> I know this is an old question <S> but I have taken many a ceiling down and never removed the insulation from the house. <S> All you need is a leaf blower, broom, and hands. <A> Adding a layer of sheetrock is probably the easiest solution in your case, but in cases where you must remove the ceiling (installing AC ductwork or repairing ceiling or attic structure) you can rent an Insulation Removal Vacuum. <S> These are similar to insulation blowers, but in reverse. <S> They use a 20 HP motor attached to a turbine to create suction and 20 ft long bags to capture the insulation. <S> The insulation can either be thrown away or reblown in after the work is complete.
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Simply push all of the insulation to one area and then do the ceiling of the other area, flip the insulation back over and you are done. Rake it in, ball it up, shove it in the bag. Just be sure not to fill the bags too full.
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What goes on threads first: tape or dope? Should the dope be applied directly to the male threads or should the tape go on first? <Q> If you're using both, the tape would go on first. <S> Which is immediately evident, if you've ever tried to apply them the other way round. <S> There's open debate over whether or not there are any advantages to using both products together, or if each product by itself is adequate. <S> Pipe dope Pipe dope ; also known as pipe joint compound, is used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint. <S> It's available for both water and gas lines. <S> It's applied by simply brushing it on the male threads of the pipe joint, before the joint is fit together. <S> Pipe dope never hardens, and will not crumble and fall out of the joint. <S> Teflon <S> Tape Dope Teflon Tape dope; also known as polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) Tape, or thread seal tape , is also used to seal and lubricate the threads of a threaded pipe joint. <S> It's available in high-density and low-density flavors, for water and gas pipe. <S> PTFE tape is applied by wrapping it in a clockwise direction, around the male threads of the threaded joint. <S> PTFE tape is available in color coded versions (pink for water, yellow for gas), as well as the common white variety. <A> Im only here because we argue about it at work all the time. <S> I originally worked for a sprinkler company that put dope then teflon on, and thats how we did it, and if you didnt do it that way, you were simply doing it wrong, without a specific reason given. <S> I then went to a company who did it the opposite way with again no believable reason given. <S> I've never had a leak with either method <S> so I don't think it really matters all that much. <S> but since dope is supposed to be applied to male threads, I would prefer it be put on first, and then the tape has something to stick to when first applying it. <S> At the end of the day I don't think it really matters, and if your pipes arent holding water <S> it's not because of the tape or the dope, <S> but rather the guy threading the pipes or wrenching them in. <S> If you're breaking female fittings simply because you have teflon on the pipe, then you either need to pay greater attention when wrenching on the fitting or adjust your die head. <S> If anyone can come up with a scientific reason why one goes before the other, I would love to hear it. <A> Many people frown on tape being used for gas piping. <S> If the fitting was ever taken apart for service, shreds of tape can travel to gas valves, etc. <S> Gas controls with shreds in them <S> may very well not be covered by the warranty. <S> Also, putting pipe dope on the male only keeps dope from being pushed into the system. <S> Wiping any from the end will help. <S> If the fittings leak they are probably just some of the cheap junk you can buy today, or someone locally ran the pipe tap/die in too far. <S> As taps/dies are tapered that will oversize the female or undersize the male thread. <A> <A> Put on some high density yellow or pink Teflon tape, then a thin layer of Rectorseal Tru-Blu. <S> I have had good luck with this dope. <S> DO NOT use low density Teflon tape or non setting pipe dope, in my experience it does not work as well. <S> Only apply pipe dope lightly with a BRUSH, not a shovel. <A> We used one to one and a half turns of Teflon tape, and then doped the threads of the gas line(s). <S> The reason as explained to me was that the tape sealed it, and a light doping lubricated it to make putting it together easier, as well as aiding in the seal of a more poorly machined fitting. <S> I've rarely had to use both on a plumbing fitting though. <S> Only on a stubborn old fitting or two that were leaking with tape alone. <A> I'd use t-tape first and a small amount of pipe dope on the tape. <S> I've worked on 30 inch water main breaksAnd <S> have installed hundreds of copper water services with brass fittings,fire hydrants ive taped live water mains worked on cla- <S> Val's installed 10" gate valves, PVC plumbing. <S> Installed thousands of water meters and customer shut off valves. <S> 15+ years of plumbing outside of working for a water department for 10 years. <A> It's all relative. <S> If you were dealing with three-quarter inch PVC or DWV of any kind obviously you just need Teflon. <S> When you are dealing with plumbing, and heating systems in particular, you will want to use both. <S> Teflon first. <S> Dope second. <S> The last thing you want to do is complete a job (especially big commercial) and have a leak in the system. <S> Working in the fields for decades I can tell you I've seen far less leaks down the road on fittings that have both. <S> Teflon tape should never be used for gas piping unless it is yellow rated. <A>
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Use tape first, then apply the pipe dope on top. There are manufacturers ( Rapid being one ) that WILL void warranty if Teflon is used on the gas going to equipment.. that being said for water seals I dope then tape only to have tape for a clean look Also it is much cleaner to handle that way. A long time ago, when I installed gas lines for furnaces, using both was the approved method of the contractor that I worked for.
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What type of common materials can I use to detect water infiltration/leaks? I am trying to find the source for a water leak in my car when it rains. The answer here should also be good for hard to find water leaks in a house. Is there a material I can use which tells me the material got in contact with water in the past? I mean it changes color, or deforms or does something visible permanently even if it gets dry later? I want to know that some area got water before even if it's dry now. I want to know this after the fact. I hope I explained what I am trying to do and know. (For those interested: I did run the hose over the car for a while and saw no leaks. I think it takes time and it's happening under the inside panels) <Q> What you're looking for is called " water contact indicator tape ". <S> It's used in cellphones and other electronics to detect when damage was caused by water for warranty-rejection purposes. <S> You get it wet, and it turns bright red, as shown on page 2 , and stays that way permanently. <S> Though it's generally only sold by the 100-count reel. <A> I would check a paper towel fairly often since a little water will quickly soak the entire thing. <A> Blue paper shop towels turn darker blue and are quite obvious when wet. <S> They sometimes retain a different color or stiffness once they dry out, so they are mildly indicative once dried and highly indicative while whet. <A> One of the simplest leak detectors is a stethoscope. <S> Open the hood. <S> Turn the key to the "on" position. <S> Turn the fan on High. <S> Close the doors. <S> Move the stethoscope around the windshield, door openings, sunroof etc. <S> With the fan running the cabin will become slightly pressurized and the air will escape at the point of the leak. <S> The air will generate a noise that is audible with the stethoscope.
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Depending on how much water you're dealing with, newspaper or a paper towel can be an easy low tech solution.
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furnace for central air heating, as what for central air cooling? In my apartment, the heating and cooling seems to flow through the same central aid conditioning system. The device used to heat the air is called the furnace. I wonder what the name for the device that cools down the air? Are they not the same device? Thanks! <Q> It takes liquid freon from the outside compressor unit and turns it into a gas. <S> This process results in a lower temperature and your indoor air is cooled by it. <A> It is possible that if it really is only one device, it might be a heat pump. <S> However, because of the way an air conditioner operates, the compressor is typically outside and just connected via piping to the air handling unit, so it might not be apparent if you just look inside your HVAC room. <S> Both a full-on air conditioner and a heat pump require an outside unit, however. <S> And just to cover all the bases, a device that cools the air is called an 'Air conditoner'. <A> It's typically called the 'air conditioning unit'. <S> The unit consists of a number of parts. <S> A handy diagram: <S> In a central air situation, the evaporator would exist as part of your duct system and be installed typically near the furnace. <S> The compressor and condensor would exist as a unit outside. <S> The two connected via a small loop of copper pipe (typically) of which the fluid passes through.
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The device that cools the air is called an evaporator.
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Laying Tile Over Asbestos Floor Tile In my laundry room, I've got asbestos floor tile. (The house was built in 1967.) The tile is laid on the concrete slab. Is it possible to lay ceramic penny tile over the asbestos tile if I put down cement backerboard first? I'd like to avoid pulling up the asbestos tile. <Q> Don't disturb the asbestos if you can avoid it. <S> Check with your town to see if there are special rules, but in general the process will be: clean the existing tiles thoroughly, with something that will remove grease and dirt. <S> If any old tiles are loose, nail them in place with 6D nails, then use a nail set to countersink the nail heads. <S> When it cures, lay down plywood as a new subfloor. <S> Check the directions for the new tile to see what they recommend for thickness and type of subfloor, as well as the recommended gap between sheets of plywood, and the number and type of fasteners to use to attach the subfloor. <S> Be sure your fasteners are long enough to get all the way into the original subfloor, under the asbestos floor (unless you're really fond of squeaky floors and popped tiles). <S> Sweep the subfloor, then use a thin coat of floor leveler to fill the gaps between the plywood sheets as well as the dimples created by the fasteners. <S> When it cures, clean the subfloor thoroughly, then lay your new floor. <S> If you leveled things well, and fastened the new subfloor properly, your new floor should be fine. <S> I think most people picture ceramic tiles with curved edges when you say "tiled floor" rather than flat linoleum tile, which is what I'm guessing is actually there. <S> Trying to put a new floor over ceramic tile would be a recipe for failure, but putting it over linoleum would be fine. <A> As long as you do not disturb the asbestos you're fine. <S> Asbestos is dangerous only when inhaled, which only happens if its airborne. <S> Take care when you lay down the backer board to not damage the asbestos. <S> Glue and screw it down (as screwing it down with cement on top isn't going to risk creating airborne asbestos fibers) and tile away to your hearts content. <A> I'd hire some professionals and have them remove the asbestos tile. <S> They can't just remove your layer of tile on top, it will likely be considered hazardous waste because of what it's attached to. <S> So the costs and effort of fixing it will significantly increase if you don't do this <S> right the first time. <A> There's no way to know for sure. <S> Given the cost in material and labor (and occupant inconvenience) of new tile, it's not worth the risk. <S> You want any tile work to be as reliable as possible. <S> This means removing any old material down to a solid substrate and starting fresh and doing it right. <S> When you think of all involved, and how problems crop up even in "good" installations, there's really no other option. <S> Removing old tile is hard work, but it's not really that bad, and it's better than tearing out two layers to do it <S> right the third time. <S> EDIT 12/7 Hehe. <S> I thought you meant existing ceramic tile. <S> Asbestos containing linoleum tile! <S> Ick! <S> Never mind! <S> Bury that stuff under layers <S> so no one ever need encounter it again! <A> I've been laying tile for over 30 years. <S> Yes its always good to do it right the first time, <S> all things being equal that is. <S> Until like I have come across these asbestos seeking rip off lawyers who want you to hire them because of the asbestos in your flooring, whether it be in the linoleum tile or what ever. <S> They want you to sue so and so landlord or homeowner for infecting you with their asbestos. <S> Anyway just so you know, some one mentioned, if you do not want to lift the tile because of the asbestos in it. <S> It is perfectly fine to lay your ceramic tile over the linoleum tile, if its on concrete slab etc. <S> Make sure the lose tiles are removed and or secured. <S> Level the dips and the risers where ever they might be. <S> If you take all these steps prior to laying your ceramic tile over the linoleum(that's linoleum on concrete). <S> You have to make sure the tile are laid over a firm foundation, the concrete is that. <S> I have done it this way for over 30 years and never had an issue with it. <S> A Lot of nuckle heads make a big issue over asbestos, when all they really want is attention and money, if they can get it. <S> If the asbestos in your linoleum becomes an issue later when the house is sold, the house is probably tooo old and is ready for demolition.(which(demolition) <S> I have done for the past 30 years)
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Use a thin coat of floor leveler on the old tile to fill the seams between tiles and level off any dents and depressions that have formed over time. If you tile over it, then when someone does have to remove the asbestos tile, everything has to come up and be specially treated. You may get by and not have cracks doing this, or you might not.
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How can I run a coaxial cable into an existing single gang electrical outlet? The cable outlet in my girlfriend's living room is in a strange place. She wants to move her TV to a different wall but the landlord doesn't want any new holes in the wall or floor. If the wall was just painted drywall I'd just put a hole in the wall and patch it later when she moves out but the wall is covered with a strange fabric wall paper and I don't think I could patch it. Essentially, anything I do I need to be able to undo. I'm thinking of running the coaxial cable from the basement into an existing electrical outlet. What is the best way to do this? I couldn't find any coaxial/electrical duplex combos that can fit into a single gang box. Essentially what I'm looking for is a single gang outlet that has coaxial on the top and power on the bottom. I guess I could try and modify a single outlet and a coaxial outlet with a divider between them into the existing box. Any suggestions? <Q> Have you thought about trying to achieve the same result without running wires? <S> Assuming you're using a cable (or satellite) box of some kind <S> (and your TV doesn't have a built-in cable card), you could use something like this : <S> That would give you a standard RCA connection from your satellite/cable box to your TV. <S> There are other options for other connection types; e.g. this one for HDMI <S> (although it gets spendy). <S> Failing that, how about just using a quarter-round cable cover around the edge of the room? <A> Looking through a Leviton catalog and doing some searches on Google, this is probably a bad idea. <S> They don't make an outlet that is single gang, 1 120v outlet with a coax connection above or below. <S> Obviously, as you don't want to cut a bigger hole in the wall, this is a problem. <S> I would NOT modify a 120v outlet to have a coax connection anywhere near it. <S> The actual 120v outlet is sealed, made out of some sort of plastic <S> and it would be very dangerous to try to modify the outlet for this purpose. <S> Also, with the coax being so close to the 120v outlet IF you modified it, you may very well cause interference, not to mention risk a fire hazard. <S> Find another means to run the coax, be it along the edge of the room near the baseboards or in a plastic wall conduit. <S> I would also advise NOT taking out an 120v outlet and using it for a coax run. <S> You would need an outlet at the end of a run and even still, you would only be able to put wire nuts and electrical tape on it, not remove it completely. <S> This would leave you with a live line in the same box as the coax. <S> If anything ever happened to the wire nuts and the coax <S> some how got electricity running through it, it could very well burn down the house. <S> Ultimately, see if you can work something out with the landlord; even if it requires some $$$. <A> If the outlet is hidden from view, and the cover is large enough, you might be able to bring the coax out of the wall between the edge of the drywall and the side, top, or bottom of the j-box. <S> You could then modify the cover to allow the cable through. <S> This probably isn't code either (because you are modifying the cover), but at least the coax isn't inside the j-box. <S> You could then either put an inline junction in the line, or run it long enough to go the whole distance to the TV. <A> Why don't you ask the landlord, and just leave it installed? <S> If you use a low-voltage retrofit mount in the wall, a nice faceplate, put it in a reasonable spot, keep the wiring in the basement nice and neat (eg, stapled down) and leave the other outlet intact, I wouldn't think this would be a problem. <S> Heck, most landlords probably do not keep track of where outlets are and would probably not even notice (unless it was crooked, mounted unevenly, or generally there is something calling attention to it). <S> (note: this is one I did that also has ethernet, but you can get faceplates with a single coax in the middle) <A> I doubt that any of this would be compliant with NEC code standards, so that is probably why you don't see such a combo. <S> If you are set on this then what I would do would be to remove the outlet, wire nut the existing electrical wires and wrap the nuts well in electrical tape for safety. <S> If the existing receptacle is carrying the load of a second wire then proceed to wire nut the like colored wires together to prevent disabling other receptacles further ahead on the circuit. <S> I highly recommend getting a quad insulated high quality coax cable as being this close to the electromagnetic field of electrical wiring in the same box <S> will probably have a significant effect on the quality of the signal. <S> Before she moves out you should be able to remove the coaxial cable, and reinstall the receptacle that was in that box. <S> NOTE: <S> Test for voltage with a quality non-contact voltage tester just to make sure. <S> Electricity is dangerous and can be fatal. <A> This is way late for OP, but previous answers claimed that a double-gang box was required to allow a NEC code-approved "barrier" plate between the high- and low-voltage. <S> Some vendors do make a single gang box option where the box contains an internal divider and you use a special divided receptacle. <S> One example can be seen here: https://images.tradeservice.com/NLFIPK6LM8USYT9P/ATTACHMENTS/DIR100005/HUBKELE00211_10.pdf <S> Alas, that is a "new work" box, so still OP-inappropriate unless he could horse it around from the backside of/inside the wall. <S> But this info may keep future searchers from going away empty-handed... <A>
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When working with electricity, proceed with caution and make sure the circuit breaker is off before working on the receptacle. After doing this you should be able to run a coax cable up to the junction box and get a female connector plate to cover. In a double gang box, you would use a low voltage separator to keep the 120v side separate from the coax side. If there's carpet, the landlord won't notice a small hole drilled in the corner near the baseboard in the floor; if its hardwood it might be more noticeable. Either way, if the landlord finds out about it, she may loose her deposit (or whatever the terms of the lease are). The Hubbell single AC video/HDMI/audi gang box can be found here
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What could cause my washing machine to stop before the rinse cycle? My washing machine will get stuck right before the rinse cycle. The washing machine will be full of water. The way to "fix it" is to twist the knob right after the "rinse" line, find the sweet spot, and pull the knob out. It can take 10+ tries to find this sweet spot and seems to have no rhyme or reason. I've read online that this might be a drainage problem, but I'm not sure that is the case here. I'm basing that off of the fact that allowing time to pass doesn't increase the likelihood of hitting the sweet spot. Anything I can check? As the pictures show this is a Whirlpool Ultimate Care II <Q> Sounds like the timer-switch is dirty or worn, based on the fact there's a sweet spot that works. <S> If the timer is stuck, i.e. it never reaches the end of the cycle on it's own, the gear teeth are probably worn in that spot. <S> If the timer works, it just 'misses' the rinse, you may be able to access the contacts and clean them. <S> If the gears are worn or broken, you'll probably have to replace the whole assembly. <S> Since you can get it to work in the sweet spot, that rules out the usual suspects like control valves, relays, pumps. <A> Try to raise the exit hose on the backside so it levels to the top plate of the machine. <S> If the hose is flat on the floor or in a low height the machine can have problems draining the water. <S> I don't mean the end of the hose here, but the "middle" of it (see arrow on my amazing figure). <S> If the hose (in red) comes out at a lower point then make sure the bend is at a high point: <A> I just had this problem with my Frigidaire washer. <S> It's like from 1991 or 1992, I think! <S> I really appreciate the answer above because I did not know how to drain the hose or get all the water out of the washer, but someone asked how to check this switch, so I'm adding to the answer what I did: <S> Open the washer <S> lid look on the right. <S> There's a slit where your lid has this plastic thing that goes down in there to lock the lid shut. <S> Lightly press with a pen, or something of similar size to fit in the slit, at the top side of the slit in the machine. <S> It doesn't take a lot of pressure. <S> Wait for it to drain. <S> Water might start flying out, so be ready if you have to close the lid on your hand. <S> You have to keep the lever pressed for the entire cycle. <S> It takes about maybe 5 minutes, depending on your washer. <S> I was pressing it hard at first, but I realized I didn't have to push so hard. <S> If you let up the pressure, though, it will stop. <S> It will start again as soon as you reapply pressure. <S> This isn't the most convenient way to wash clothes, but it will do until I get it fixed or get another washer. <S> It will buy you some time if you don't mind paying extra attention to the washer on laundry day. <A> It could simply be blocked. <S> Put down loads of old towels and clear out the filter. <S> It won't go on to rinse if it thinks that there's still water from the soap cycle. <A> It's more than likely a clogged hose connecting to the water pump. <S> From my experience,i disconnected and unclogged a washer and found that so much cardboard,coins and sediment had accumulated,clogging the water hose and pump. <S> Sure enough the washer started to work as if nothing had happened,lol. <A> My daughter in law had the same problem and it was that her dry well was full of lint from years of use. <S> We installed a sump to the town sewer line instead. <A> This just happened to us today. <S> Our top lid was a little bit warped, so the lid strike wasn't "latching", more like striking, the button at the top of the washer to signal that it was closed. <S> I figured it out after I replaced the drainage hose and realized that it didn't fix the problem. <S> As I was getting frustrated, I used the screw driver that I had prepared for the hose replacement to push down on the little trap door/latch and sure enough, the washer kicked into the spin cycle. <S> It makes sense now because every other step of the cycle can function with the top lid open, except for the spin cycle. <S> Therefore, it's most likely that the lid isn't closing right. <S> That was my case and now it makes perfect sense. <S> On a side note, the hose is supposed to be replaced every 5 years and this thing is at least 10 years old, so <S> I'm justifying the pain I went through to replace the hose. <S> Our washer is jammed next to our dryer in a tiny room and the water basin is broken, so getting to the back of the washer was a pain. <S> If it was out in the open, it would have been an easy replacement. <S> The hose was like $8 at Home Depot. <S> Buy a clamp too if you need to replace the hose, fyi. <A> Had the same problem in my 1998 Whirlpool. <S> It was a broken plastic spin switch. <S> A new one costs $50, I was told. <S> It sits below the hole in the lower right corner of the top of the washer. <S> That plastic finger in the lid fits in the hole and turns on the switch when lid is down. <S> Repairer offered to wire around the switch. <S> Now lifting the hood, won't stop spinning, but pushing timer knob will. <A> My issue was the door safety switch!!! <S> I haven't changed it yet <S> but I pressed it with a pen <S> and it worked. <A> Had the same problem today and as one user has mentioned above. <S> The problem was with the door not latching properly causing the cycle to stop at Rinse. <S> I screwed the switch sorta thing on the right end of the washer back into place and had the door close on it and yay, the washer finished the cycle. <S> [Moderator edit: It appears that he's referring to the lock-out switch that the door makes contact with]
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Other causes are broken pressure sensor, failing water inlet valve, dodgy door lock. It also could be as simple as the door safety switch.
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When would one use an impact driver versus a regular drill? Or vice-versa. As best as I can tell, the impact driver is very good for most any type of screw going through wood. When would you use a drill (with screw bit) instead? <Q> Drills and impact drivers are similar in that they're both rotating power tools and they have some overlap in usage, but they work differently and have different strengths. <S> Drills apply a constant torque and tend to have good control across a range of speeds and clutch settings. <S> They're good for work that requires care or precision, like drilling a hole or driving a a smaller screw. <S> Impact drivers provide much higher torque but in rapid bursts–very much like a hammer provides bursts of linear force. <S> This makes them good for heavy-duty jobs like driving long lag bolts (you can even take the lug nuts off your car wheels with most impact drivers), but the banging action makes them a little bit difficult to control. <S> They're also not good for driving into something very soft–between the hammer strikes <S> there's no torque applied and the bit can actually rotate backwards. <S> You can see this by holding the chuck with your hands while the driver is on; you'll feel the pulsing of the strikes but chuck won't actually rotate. <S> Finally, some impact drivers don't have a clutch, which means you need to be very careful if you're driving something that could be over-tightened or broken by the high torque. <S> Besides the higher torque, impact drivers have another huge advantage in that you don't have to hold them tightly to provide the torque. <S> The momentum of the rotating striker inside is what provides the rotation force, so even when you're driving something very tough <S> it's quite easy to hold the tool. <S> Drills on the other hand provide a constant torque and require the user to provide the reaction and prevent the tool from spinning. <S> If you have to pick a single all-purpose tool for general DIY use, a drill is much easier to control and is useful in a wider range of situations. <A> I started using a DeWalt compact impact driver a couple of years ago, and will never go back to a regular drill/driver again, with a few exceptions. <S> The impact driver is superior for most types of screws in hard wood, decking and sheathing. <S> It is also great for self tapping and self drilling screws. <S> It rarely strips the head of the screw as long as you keep the angle right <S> and it sets the head well. <S> Some applications not well suited for an impact drill are drywall, fragile materials like thin woods, veneers, plastics, acrylics etc and on screws like machine screws in threaded metal. <A> When I can, I use a regular drill because it's quieter. <S> Saves my hearing. <S> I also like the regular drill when precision is required. <S> My drill has a low speed setting. <S> Combined with gentle trigger pressure, I can get the screw to just the right depth. <S> For example, when using pole barn screws w/ neoprene washers on metal roofing or siding. <S> In soft woods, like cedar, an impact driver in novice hands can do a lot of damage - the screw can go very deep in to the wood. <A> An impact driver is inappropriate for anything that will not tolerate over-torquing well, such as fragile materials (very soft or thin woods, plastic, drywall, etc.) or fragile screws (e.g. brass). <A> Impact drivers tend to be a bit more compact than drills, so they can be useful when working in tighter spaces. <A> My new impact driver has 3 speed/torque settings and is also trigger sensitive, if I had to choose between a drill and an impact driver I'd take the impact driver any day because you can get drill bits for them for drilling also. <S> They go OK at doing a drill's job but a drill will never do an impact driver's job: it will burn out. <S> And a normal drill in novice hands is capable of a lot of destruction also: anything from over tightening to broken wrists, an impact driver will never break your wrist. <S> That goes for any power tool though: they are all dangerous. <A> When you don't have a drill around. <S> When you do have a drill around <S> but you have it ocuppied in some thing else.2a. <S> Don't go crazy as to which one to use - just grab the one closest to you and after a little while, you will have your own personal favorite system all worked out.
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When you are using the drill for drilling, you can use the impact driver for driving screws; that way, you don't have to keep switching between drill bit and screw bit on your drill which can be tedious.
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How can I prepare uneven concrete basement floor for vinyl planks? I have roughly 600 sq ft of basement that needs new flooring after some unfortunate flooding this past summer. We had carpet over concrete and are now looking to lay vinyl planks down. There is about 150 sq ft off to the side (L-shaped basement) that is very uneven. I'm a first time home owner, inexperienced with these types of jobs, and just trying to figure out the best way to approach this. Do we try to level out the higher area only? Grind it down, or self leveling concrete? Or lay down a subfloor throughout the entire basement? The majority of the floor is even, with one section that was possibly a crack in the foundation "repaired" by a previous owner. Max variation is nearly 1/4" in some spots around the edge of that patch. They had laid some ugly VCT over top to try and hide it. And yes, the water problem has since been solved. And if it makes a difference, the area that has the raised patch is not the area we had water issues. Any advice is greatly appreciated! <Q> Type of flooring dictates how "perfect" <S> it needs to be, carpet being the least work. <S> Vinyl is flexible so just no real drastic changes. <S> Below are the basic steps to fixing uneven concrete floors. <S> Use a straight edge and mark high and low spots. <S> (Really exaggerated case in this image) <S> You use a grinder (with dust mask and safety goggles) for high spots. <S> You can rent a large floor grinder or get on your hands and knees. <S> and SLC (self-leveling compound) in low spots. <S> For SLC just follow the manufacturer's instructions. <S> If the floor is really bad you may want to pour the stuff over the whole thing. <A> For a basement, it might not be worth the cost. <S> If your floor is just rolling, then you should be able to install vinyl tiles directly. <S> What you need to get rid of is any sharp changes in height such as lumps of concrete spatter and any ridges that have a sharp edge. <S> Your floor won't be perfect, but trying to grind it down is a lot of work, and self-leveling compounds are expensive. <A> If you do not have experience with concrete or self-leveling floor compounds, I recommend a sub-floor, or hiring a contractor. <S> Installing a sub-floor is a little bit more forgiving of mistakes (easier to fix in other words)... <S> The ones I have seen used had a black plastic bottom with wood top surface and inter-connected.
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That said, if you can just partially level the floor to remove high points you might be able to use any number of floor tiles that make this easier. Or if you like gadgets, Bosch has a new laser out that lets you easily mark the uneven parts.
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What should I use to protect and cover my floors during construction? We are building a new house and I'm installing the laminate wood flooring. The builder suggested I cover the flooring after I'm done to protect it during the last few weeks of construction and with moving in. What would you suggest I use? Rosin paper, Kraft paper, or something more? <Q> If you don't have any heavy duty canvas type drop cloths, then use a couple of layers of red rosin paper. <S> Tape the seams and around the perimeter to hold it in place. <S> Red Rosin is much better than plastic as it is not slippery to walk on and is fairly tough for foot traffic. <A> A product that I recently saw in use on a commercial construction job at my office is purpose-made for this application. <S> This should give some protection from impacts as well as scuffs. <S> Tougher than rosin paper, easier to handle than masonite. <S> No idea what it costs, <S> but I'd consider it if I had multiple trades working on top of my hardwood floors. <A> Your local bodyshop has tons of cardboard they are more than happy to get rid of. <S> Large boxes that hoods and body panels are packaged in. <S> 3 or 4 hood boxes will cover a room. <A> The edges can easily fold up to protect baseboards as well.
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It's called Ram Board, and it's a super thick non-corrugated cardboard sheet that comes in rolls. Keep an eye on it and tape or put an extra piece on any areas that get ripped. I have used Ram Board and it is excellent and waterproof (for some time).
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How to stop cold air from coming into the house I have a door similar to this, but it is an external door. There is a lot of cold air coming in from the bottom of this door, and around the perimiter (betweent he door and the frame). This is a rental house, so I don't want to spend too much fixing this forever, just enough for it to be effective. How do I prevent cold air from coming into the house? <Q> For the bottom, you need to install a (or replace the existing) door bottom (Yeah, someone was really inventive with that name). <S> The thing goes on the bottom of the door and will fill the gap there. <S> There are 2 general types, ones with vinyl fins ( like this ) or ones with short brushes ( like this ). <S> I personally find the latter work better, though if you have a large gap, the brush type may not be long enough to fill the gap fully, though a gap that large likely means your threshold is improperly sized. <A> This may work as a temporary fix seeing as your in a rental http://www.improvementscatalog.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/twin-draft-guard-26-23174-door-draft-stopper/10784?redirect=y <A> For a temporary, low-cost, low-hassle solution, you could just put a towel down in front of the door to block the draft. <S> That's what we always did in my house as a kid.
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You can get a under the door dual draft stopper that slides under the door like this below.
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How do I to choose a new light fixture for the bathroom? I've got a bathroom that has a single 75 watt bulb light fixture. It's wall mounted. Unfortunately, it's old and there isn't enough light. I'd like to replace it with a sconce that has 2 or 3 bulbs. How do I determine what type of sconce to get? How many watts? How do I know if the circuit will be overloaded? I'm going to hire an electrician to do the work, but I want to buy the right fixture for him to install. The home was built in the '60s. <Q> Two factors affect what light bulbs you can place. <S> The first is the branch circuit load, which is the total amperage (watts / volts * safety margin). <S> That must be less than the rating of the circuit breaker. <S> The safety margin is 1.25, which gives you a loading of 80% of the breaker's capacity. <S> This is to account for some resistance loss in the wire, initial startup surge, etc. <S> See also <S> How do you plan capacity for electrical circuits? <S> and the National Electric Code <S> if you're in the US. <S> ( NEC basic rules and design ) <S> The second factor which will matter less since you're replacing the fixture is the heat loading of the fixture. <S> When you see a fixture that has a wattage rating for a bulb on it, that rating is typically far lower than what the power cord is capable of handling. <S> The rating is based on the amount of heat that would be generated by an incandescent bulb of that wattage. <S> Overloading that is a fire hazard. <A> Put simply, in a residential structure no light fixture you can buy in a commercial big box outlet is going to pose a problem. <S> Most residential circuits are 15A - some are 20A and some are 10A. A 100W bulb on a 110V system uses just under 1A, so your light fixture would need to have a minimum of ten 100W bulbs to approach the threshhold for your house's circuits. <S> Plus you can get CFL bulbs which produce the same amount of light at a fraction of the wattage. <S> So - get what you like. <A> If you replace the bulbs with LEDs or CFLs, the electric draw and heat output concerns both become moot since those bulbs use only a fraction of the electricity and put out a fraction of the heat. <S> I would strongly urge you to consider LED bulbs–the price premium is insignificant compared to the cost of the fixture, the electrician, and the lifetime electricity usage of the light. <S> In return for a modest upfront investment you will be repaid with a cool and efficient bulb that never needs to be replaced. <S> Today's LED bulbs come in a range of colors and brightnesses, are dimmable, and last for many decades. <S> Big box stores near me have several great bulbs in the $10-$20 range. <A> If your house was wired properly, one fixture will not overload the circuit. <S> The real question is how much light is enough light? <S> We know 75w in your existing fixture is not enough. <S> Fixtures vary greatly in how efficiently they put out light. <S> One fixture will make a 100w bulb put out plenty of light, another may need 150w for the same amount of light. <S> Fixtures are rated with a coefficient of utilization that is a measurement of this property, but finding this rating in the product specifications can be difficult. <S> Another factor is where the light is projected. <S> Some fixtures spread it all around. <S> Some only downwards or upwards or both. <S> The color of the room's walls an ceiling affect light utilization as well. <S> If you can gather all the information, there's scientific ways to quantify the actual lighting level. <S> But just being aware of these factors will probably be enough. <S> You also don't want too much light, it not only wastes energy, but can be uncomfortable when your eyes aren't adapted to higher light levels. <S> Try to determine how much incandescent wattage you need. <S> Be sure whatever fixture you get can handle this wattage, many are surprisingly limited. <S> If you are going to convert to CFL or LED lamps, do not go by the equivalent wattage on the label. <S> A 21w CFL is not similar to a 100w incandescent. <S> More like 70w IMO. <S> I've no idea about LED conversion, I haven't tried any yet. <S> Be prepared for the fact that you will not find the ideal fixture, compromise is often inevitable, or if you do find the perfect fixture, it will be horribly expensive. <S> Selecting fixtures can be agonizing or fun. <S> Try to have fun.
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You could bring in some cheap clamp on lamp fixtures and bulbs of various wattages to establish a proper lighting level.
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How can I prepare this concrete floor for tile? I'm looking to replace an old carpet in my finished basement with tile. I've removed the carpet and found a surface with some peeling paint, which I've read needs to be removed since the thinset for the tiles needs to bond to a solid surface. I've tried attacking a small area with an angle grinder with a sanding attachment and a coarse grit sanding disc, and I've found that there seem to be a number of layers on top of the slab: It looks like there are at least two layers of paint, and then the green layer is pretty resistant to coming off. Below that there is this red, which I thought at first was maybe some weird color of cement, but if I really leave the grinder there it seems to get through to gritty looking concrete. What do I need to do here to be able to tile on top of this? It seems like the green / red layers are very well adhered and I wouldn't be worried about them coming up, but they also will not absorb any water, so I'm not sure if the thinset would bond? <Q> Putting tile over a painted surface can be risky. <S> Sure looks like removing all that paint would be a chore and <S> maybe hazardous (lead based paint if pre 1978). <S> We have put tile over such surfaces by roughing it a bit and putting a scratch coat of "floor patch and leveler" over the entire surface. <S> This is a good bonding agent on stable subfloors. <S> These are tiles mounted on an interlocking plastic base that just snap together. <S> They are very quick and easy to install. <S> There are several different brands, tile material and backer types available. <S> There is an article about these type of tiles, on Good Housekeeping . <S> Google "no mortar tile" . <S> Lots of articles on the subject <A> I would use a heat gun. <S> Been here before even on thick drywall with up to four layers of paint. <S> Wear a mask and have good venting. <S> Shaves off with a scraper after heating with ease. <S> Not too close or it'll ignite. <S> Wave it in small 6 inch circles and start in on the edges. <S> Once it bubbles or humps <S> it's ready to scrape. <A> You can rent floor grinders . <S> Properly set you can take off a very thin amount of concrete/paint. <S> Then you would likely have to get the edges with a smaller tool. <S> On a side note a slightly rougher surface will help your mortar etc stick to the concrete. <S> I think you're correct in trying to get this up though. <S> Seems like it could be a problem in the future. http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/Concrete_Grinder_10/50200-HD/index.html <A> I wouldn't bother with the floor leveler, there is no need in introducing a second product that needs to bond to the paint. <S> If it's that difficult to get up it will be fine, the only issue you might have is if water gets on it. <S> Which will be a problem if you use self leveler too. <S> If the paints bond loosens whatever is bonded to it will loosen as well. <S> Use a good quality thin-set such as ultra flex 2. <S> Don't go for economy grade thin-set no matter what you decide.
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You want a good bond to the self leveler or the paint. Another very good alternative is to use one of the new no-mortar interlocking tile products. Rent a rotating floor buffer with 18 sanding pads rough the surface up the best you can.
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Is a ground required when replacing an old single pole single throw switch? I need to replace a switch that controls a single light source in a bathroom. The switch has two wires connected to it. I bought a replacement switch that has two screws (one for each wire), and a green ground screw. Is it OK to connect just the two wires to the new switch and have the green ground screw unconnected? This is not a remodel. Just trying to replace a switch that's broken. EDIT: strangely, I didn't see a ground screw on the original switch. Was this permissable at some time? EDIT 2: Picture as requested. The left switch is for a light source and is the broken one. Right switch is for a fan. The two switches are on the same circuit. The outlet is on a separate circuit. I can't tell if the box is metal. It seems plastic but could be painted metal I suppose. EDIT 3: With switches and outlet pulled out. <Q> Because you are replacing the switch, not installing a new switch, you can get away without a ground. <S> You should install a nonconducting, noncombustible faceplate though. <S> NEC 2008 <S> 404.9 (B) <S> Exception. <S> Where no means exists within the snapswitch enclosure for connecting to the equipment groundingconductor or where the wiring method does not include or provide anequipment grounding conductor, a snap switch without a connection toan equipment grounding conductor shall be permitted for replacementpurposes only. <S> A snap switch wired under the provisions of thisexception and located within reach of earth, grade, conducting floors,or other conducting surfaces shall be provided with a faceplate ofnonconducting, noncombustible material or shall be protected by aground-fault circuit interrupter. <S> If you were installing a new switch, you would be required to provide an equipment grounding conductor at the outlet. <S> And the switch would have to be properly grounded, in accordance with the National Electrical Code (NEC). <S> There was a time when an equipment grounding conductor was not required at each outlet, so it's fairly common to come across this situation (especially when working in older homes). <S> You'll often see exceptions like this written into codes, so as not to require a full rewire just to replace a switch. <S> New info, Better answer If you are replacing a switch a ground is not required, as per the above exception. <S> However, if you're installing a switch; replacement or otherwise, into a metal box that is grounded. <S> The switch will be ground via the devices yoke and mounting screws. <S> So if the metal box is grounded, the switch is also grounded. <S> If the box is nonmetallic, and there are other grounded devices within the same enclosure. <S> Just keep in mind, that you can't terminate two conductors under a single screw terminal. <S> So if you do this, you'll have to use pigtails to make the connection between the devices. <A> from the photo, the outlet clearly has a ground and should be spliced and then the ground run to each switch and the original outlet. <A> Ok, now that we've got all the questions answered. <S> Get yerself a spare bit of unshielded 14ga copper wire. <S> Connect the ground screw from the new switch to the ground terminal on the grounded outlet. <S> You're grounded.
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You can ground the new switch using a jumper between the switches grounding screw, and the other devices grounding screw.
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Can I install data wiring in a clothes closet? I want to add network drops to several rooms in my house, and have them connect to one point, preferably inside an existing closet. I would like to put a cable modem and a WiFi router in this closet, as well as a reasonably presentable method of the wires entering the closet (I would still like to be able to use the closet as a regular closet). I figure that I would need to run power, RG-6, and all the network drops to this panel. Is this something that could be code compliant? If I don't have a designated place for data wiring, is there a preferred place to put things like this? Possibly relevant information: The house is a concrete slab foundation, and PITA attic access. All existing wiring (electrical, phone, coax) is loose on top of the ceiling framing. The other "low voltage" signals for phone and coax have their own junction box on the outside of the house, so I wouldn't be re-running or really touching those. <Q> The current solution being installed in new homes is a "structured media enclosure" that you can install between the studs in a closet wall. <S> You want this on an interior wall so that you're not dealing with insulation. <S> The outlet is installed as part of the enclosure and the enclosure is covered to reduce the risk of clothing blocking vents and starting a fire. <S> Here's a sample enclosure: <S> See this question for photos and a discussion about typical wiring in one of these enclosures. <S> Your patch panel for networking, phone splitter, cable splitter, router/modem are all installed inside the panel. <S> Typically, electrical is wired from below and all the data wiring goes through access holes in the top. <S> When closed, no wires come out the front of the panel, everything stays inside the wall and panel. <S> I'd also recommend installing an access panel in the ceiling of your closet to make it easier to fish new wiring, unless there is access from above. <S> If you're going to open up a lot of walls/ceilings to fish the wiring, then you may also want to install some conduit to each of your drops in case you want to change this network in the future without opening everything up again. <A> It should be straightforward to meet code in your area as regards power, temperature and fire requirements - but what you need to think about are your hardware requirements: <S> In addition to your cable modem and wireless router, you'll also want a patch panel and a power bar (networks always grow - don't limit yourself to just the power you need now) <S> so you'll want to either situate this at the back or side of your closet to avoid cabling getting in the way of things. <S> If you have a closet adjacent to your breaker box, then this will be very easy, otherwise look at which mains spurs you can use. <S> Ideally your data cabling should exit the closet as far away from power cabling as possible. <S> Standard wireless antennae have an omni-directional pattern, so having a closet in the centre of the house will work best here - <S> but if it is behind a boiler, for example, signals will be blocked quite badly so you'll need to think about propagation paths. <S> What I typically do in houses is have my network closet in the attic with cable drops down to each room. <S> I also have my storage and various servers there as the attic is at a much lower temperature, and I can place wireless antennae wherever I need for coverage, and I point them downwards. <S> Edit - once last point: for all kit with fans, be aware that dust and fluff from clothing will build up over time, so you need to plan on checking and clearing out fluff on a regular basis. <A> I highly recommend putting the wireless router in a central location. <S> I actually plan on mounting mine on the ceiling in my hallway soon. <S> I currently have it in the basement with my fileserver and the signal quality is not very good. <S> Upstairs in the hallway will give me the best signal quality. <S> The only standards I can think of are 568A/568B for when you're wiring everything up. <S> You want to follow these standards so someone else can come into the house after you've sold it (or died if you plan on keeping it forever) and easily repair or add new cable if needed.
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Since it's between the studs, you need to make sure nothing is currently running in that space today (although an outlet that's wired from below servicing the other side of the wall would be very convenient).
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Who manufactures this bath tub faucet? I have a bath tub faucet that leaks and needs valve replacement. No one seems to know what kind of faucet it is. I have sent a picture of it to the major suppliers and no one seems to know. Maybe someone out there can help. I have had plumbers here as well that do not know. Click on photo for full size <Q> This is a discontinued brand/manufacturer called Valley. <S> My faucet handle broke and I saw your picture while I was researching for a replacement. <S> I was able to get a replacement today from Biard & Crockett Plumbing Service Inc in Orange, CA. <A> I have the same one and found a repair kit at Amazon. <S> I still need to make sure the Amazon kit includes the same cartridge as mine before ordering it. <S> The cover that needs to be removed (after removing the handle) can be loosened by spraying it with WD-40 and use regular big pliers to remove (turn left to loosen). <S> YouTube has a couple of videos showing how to replace a Valley cartridge. <S> They're not the best videos, but they might help. <A> It appears to be a Moen or one of the Moen knockoffs. <S> Moen units usually will have a name somewhere. <S> This also might be a case where the handle was replaced with an off brand but the guts are genuine. <S> As @ <S> Steven has suggested remove the cartridge and bring it with you. <S> Even if it is an older model the parts may span for many years and be available. <S> Don't be discouraged if the big box stores don't carry what you need. <S> Try a local hardware store. <S> Most times they can order it if it isn't stocked. <A> Rather than fuss over trying to get repair parts for an old mixer valve body, why not replace the entire unit? <S> You can upgrade to a good anti-scald, volume/temp control valve. <S> Any good plumber can easily remove the mixer and replace the unit, You will need access to the back of the unit however. <S> The model of the mixer valve is almost always cast into the body. <S> Moen or Price Vista usually have a red/blue ying/yang logo somewhere. <S> Has anyone removed the handle and wall trim to actually look at the valve body? <A> I'm pretty certain that is a Valley Tub/Shower fixture. <S> I have the same one. <S> You can find replacement parts on-line. <S> Just Google "Valley Tub/Shower Valve." <S> This link shows how to fix one of those. <S> http://plumbing.about.com/od/shower_and_tub/ss/Fix-A-Valley-Shower-Leak.htm <A> ...I believe.
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It is definitely an old-style Valley brand. that is the Moen 'tear drop'
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What's the best way to get rid of ants inside my home? I have ants occasionally in the summer come through the cracks in my garage floor. What is the best way to eliminate them? <Q> Some options to consider: ant poison (Terro a being a popular choice) fill in the crack (concrete crack filler) <S> get a pet anteater (not sure how easy they are to house train) <S> Once the ants are gone, you can then get perimeter ant poison for your big-box DIY retailer. <S> It's a granule that you can spread around the perimeter of your house to help prevent them from migrating into the house. <S> Diatomaceous earth is also a good choice as a perimeter barrier (it's basically a sand that is microscopically 'sharp' for insects <S> and they are reluctant to cross it). <A> My own (not) special blend of herbs and spices. <S> Specifically, 1.5 cups warm-to-hot water (warm water mixes better).5 cups sugar1.5 tablespoons <S> 20 Mule Team Borax Mix vigorusly. <S> The method of delivery I used was soaking a cotton ball in the mixture and placing the cotton ball on juice bottle top or something similar, and placing this in (a) strategic location(s). <S> The sugar attracts them and the borax they can't digest, so poof. <S> Another bonus is it's recursive. <S> My wife told me that ants will carry dead ants back to somewhere (their hq?) and eat them, since we've effectively poisoned these ants, the second round of ants will be poisoned when eating these dead ants as well. <S> I've seen this in practice, although I'm not sure how long the cycle lasts. <S> Usually they're attracted to the trap for a couple of days or so <S> before a new one is needed, not sure if it's because the path to that food is marked as bad, or because the cotton ball got hard or something else, so they can't smell the sugar. <S> We've got them pretty bad so although these definitely work, they keep coming <S> and I think it's because I haven't found where their entry point, thus why I'm scouring SE. <S> Glad to see this is on topic, but I digress. <S> Oh yeah, credit where credit is due: I originally got the recipe from here . <A> They don't like to cross soap. <S> I like to use dish soap to direct the ants to march around the kitchen like a Balanchine dance troupe. <A> I personally don't like to 'kill' ants. <S> I'd rather 'keep them away' :) <S> I ain't an expert but here are a few things we do to keep our food safe from ants. <S> If you have to keep cakes or the like, first use a plate with some water and place the container for the food in it. <S> This way the ants cannot reach the food. <S> Add a few cloves into the sugar jar but makes sure not to bury it in. <S> Amazingly, the ants don't come to it for some time. <S> Always keep food covered/ <S> sealed in containers whenever possible. <A> Note that the right answer depends on the type of ant. <S> For other varieties, a barrier of sticky poison the ants will walk through and carry back to the nest that way is preferred; pro products are better, and a pro's going to be somewhat better at figuring out what paths to protect. <S> Carpenter ants, as I understand it, require finding and physically removing the nest, vacuuming up as many as possible of remaining ants, repairing the damaged wood, and then a pro-quality treatment.
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Exterminator told me that for the small "sugar ants", retail bait traps work as well as anything he could offer.
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Can a Wood Burning Stove use a stovepipe made of copper for a chimney? Planning to install woodburning stove one day. The plan includes exposed stovepipe running up through a loft space, through attic, and out to roof chimney. I know the stovepipe comes in black and stainless steel, but I'd rather the look of copper. The house is made of Cedar with Copper Cupula. The look matters. <Q> These pipes are also listed to be enclosed by construction. <S> Thus it seems acceptable to me to install the listed stovepipe and enclose it inside a decorative copper tube. <S> For good measure, you should probably have some provision for venting the resulting annular space at the top and bottom of the copper tube. <A> A custom job where you have steel stovepipe copper plated will be your solution, copper discolors under heat and picks up fingerprints so those conditions will need to be assessed. <A> I'm about to do this on my bus stove pipe. <S> Copper is an excellent heat transfer material. <S> It does become <S> annealed at around 800 °F. <S> However, this is far from the standard stove pipe temperature. <S> Don't let people ruin your vision of what is safe and what isn't. <S> Building codes are written to protect people from themselves and shady contractors, and to generate targeted business for certain manufacturers. <S> Follow the basic protocols for installing stove pipes: pitch, 90 bends, clearance from combustibles and proceed with caution. <S> Be ready to do maintenance to keep it looking bright and shiny if that's what you want. <S> Personally I want the patina!
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You need to use a listed insulating stovepipe anytime combustible construction is penetrated. Flue fires and the lack of structural integrity of copper under this kind of heat point to no.
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How do I properly prepare newly-finished drywall for priming? What is the minimum amount of dust that can be left on a wall before it adversely affects primer application? If it has to be completely free of dust, how do you get it all? Taking a damp rag over the wall seems to be the way to do this based on my own research, but then you have to rinse it wring it out. This dirties up the water which just means more particulates would end up back on the wall as dust after the water evaporates. Plus, going over all walls and ceiling of a 250 sq ft room with a damp rag just seems like a PIA. Is there a better way? <Q> <A> I picked up a mop with a wringable, rectangular sponge head from the drug store. <S> What I did was get it wet and wring it out to dampness. <S> I did all walls and ceiling of my 250 SF room in well under an hour. <S> There is now only ever so slight of a trace of dust on the surfaces. <S> It may be ready to prime right now, but, since it was so easy, I'll probably do it once more tomorrow for good measure. <S> It will go even quicker this time since there will be far less wringing out of the sponge head. <A> I recently prepped two rooms for primer and paint. <S> I read that the best prep is to use water and sponge as you did. <S> It was not so much the drywall compound dust, as the thin coating of kaolin the drywall manufacturer uses to keep sheets from sticking together that the water will take off. <S> I currently have a garage ceiling to scrape, mud, and prime, that pro painters apparently didn't prime. <S> The paint is peeling off every where there is a joint, and will peel off the surface with a quick swipe of a 5-in-1 tool. <S> Bozos! <A> I've heard from professional drywallers/painters that they don't even try and take all the dust from sanding off, just a quick sweep of the walls to get the majority off. <S> The really fine drywall dust will add itself to the primer coat and help smooth it out.
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You didnt have to use a mop, for next time all you have to do is take a broom to it and sweep the dust off, put some primer on, wait for it to dry and then take a pole sander to it, and dust clumps left on the wall is forever gone. After taking it from the ceiling to the floor and stepping to the side a bit to repeat, I'd be able to get about three sweeps of the wall before the head looked like it needed to be wrung out again. I tried this approach when I remodeled my living room and the results were great.
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Is it dangerous to run electrical cords through heating vents? I'm living in an old apartment, and my roommate has fed electrical cords through a heating vent from the living room into the bathroom, up to a power bar on the side of the sink. I see this as a double hazard and illegal. The heating vent exits from the wall behind the toilet, about 3 inches off floor. He says it is safe because the power bar and the cords behind the toilet will not cause a fire because the heat in the vent will dry any condensation that might cause an electric fire. But wouldn't using an active vent be dangerous, as well as being near water? I know very little about any of this, but doubt any amount of safety or grounding will make this safe. Would anyone know how to make this situation safer? Or give me some peace of mind so I can sleep. Update: This roommate is a contractor and is educated through college for home renovations. I cannot convince him to remove this hazard and will move out soon. I was told I was overreacting and do not understand how it works...so I appreciate the confirmation that it is dumb and dangerous. <Q> Of all places to hack together power supplies, a bathroom is absolutely the worst place to do this. <S> Mystical theories about the heater protecting the strip from dampness don't remove the shock hazard. <S> Fire hazard is not your problem here <A> I don't know your location, but in the USA, it is strictly forbidden to run any electrical wiring through heating vents or any air handling plenum. <S> The reason for this is that you now have a combustible material in the plenum, that can spread a fire between rooms and into wall cavities. <S> As previously mentioned, any AC electrical outlets in a bathroom MUST be GFIC protected. <S> If you do not have electrical outlets with GFI protection in your bathroom, take it up with your landlord and ask that a safe source of electricity be installed. <A> Why can't he use the electricity in the bathroom? <A> You can reduce the risk of electric shock due to a ground fault (e.g. caused by moisture) using one of these GFCI plugs . <S> Since it sounds like the extension cord starts in the living room, you would use it at the outlet there. <S> It will protect anything downstream the same way a GFCI outlet would. <S> However, this is not a fantastic solution and doesn't solve the issue of the HVAC vent. <S> Obviously the best solution is to remove the power strip and/or find another place to live. <A> Tell him that the county electrical inspector will ask him if he's wearing a halo and wings already until he corrects the violations of 210.8(A): <S> (A) Dwelling Units. <S> All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 210.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. <S> (1) Bathrooms 300.22(B): <S> (B) Ducts Specifically Fabricated for Environmental Air. <S> Equipment, devices, and the wiring methods specified in this section shall be permitted within such ducts only if necessary for the direct action upon, or sensing of, the contained air. <S> Where equipment or devices are installed and illumination is necessary to facilitate maintenance and repair, enclosed gasketed-type luminaires shall be permitted. <S> Only wiring methods consisting of Type MI cable without an overall nonmetallic covering, Type MC cable employing a smooth or corrugated impervious metal sheath without an overall nonmetallic covering, electrical metallic tubing, flexible metallic tubing, intermediate metal conduit, or rigid metal conduit without an overall nonmetallic covering shall be installed in ducts specifically fabricated to transport environmental air. <S> Flexible metal conduit shall be permitted, in lengths not to exceed 1.2 m (4 ft), to connect physically adjustable equipment and devices permitted to be in these fabricated ducts. <S> The connectors used with flexible metal conduit shall effectively close any openings in the connection. <S> and, of course, 400.8: 400.8 Uses Not Permitted. <S> Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following: <S> (1) As a substitute for the fixed wiring of a structure (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors
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Any electrical socket in a bathroom must have GFCI protection. It's not safe and not good practice to run anything through heat vents. You're damp, you touch something with a ground fault, feel a slight tickle and wake up wearing a halo and wings. Meanwhile, get that extension cord/plug strip out of there. Your roommate is an idiot who needs to be soundly bludgeoned over the head with a paper copy of the NEC until he gets electrical safety drilled into his thick skull.
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How can I repair a slow drip at the main water shutoff valve? I noticed a slow drip and wondering if solution is to turn the nut clockwise to solve. I normally would give it a go but since this is the main water shutoff I figured it'd be smart to get some confirmation before I flood my house. Another question is what's a good way to enclose/hide this. It's a eyesore just hanging out of the wall in a bonus room. <Q> Have you tried gently tightening the gland nut? <S> It's the hex cap under the handle and squeezes some sort of packing against the valve stem. <S> Tighten only in 1/16 turn increments and only if it moves with minimal force. <S> If it acts in any way <S> like it's tight, somebody else may have already compressed the packing to its maximum and no further seal is possible. <S> This is a globe valve and its design dates from the days of steam for a good reason. <S> Globe valves usually have arrows on them to show proper installation, the inlet should always be the pressure side with the valve closed. <S> If properly installed so the pressure comes in on the bottom of the valve, with the valve fully closed, the stem is on the pressureless side and allows you to remove the handle and the gland nut to replace the packing without taking the system fully out of service. <S> Packing is available at any plumbing store, take the gland nut and what you find under it with you so they can identify what was used. <A> Your problem is very common with old multi=turn valves. <S> The packings in the valve have probably dried out and split or shrunk a bit. <S> Have you tried turning the valve open and closed a few times? <S> If the packings are shot, you will see the leak change a bit in both open and closed positions. <S> You can try tightening the nut around the on/off shaft just a bit. <S> You probably won't make the leak any worse, but snugging that nut may help a bit. <S> Assuming the valve's interior parts are shot, you will need to shut off the water from the street. <S> This is usually done by the utility. <S> Once the water is off, you have two options. <S> You can either open the valve body and replace all the internal parts, or replace the valve with a newer style 1/4 turn stainless steel ball valve. <A> You are right to be prudent <S> but I wouldn't worry too much. <S> It may be wise to find your home's water cut-off valve in the street before doing anything in the very unlikely case that the valve shears submarine movie style. <S> I expect it will be difficult to turn though, so a spray of penetrating fluid before attempting to tighten it would be a good idea. <S> As for the cosmetics of it that's very hard to say without knowing more about the size, shape, and the function of the room. <S> Also, the placement of the valve and pipe in it. <A> Suggest you gently turn the 'packing nut' or 'gland nut' but only 1/16 of a turn at a time. <S> I've seen this issue countless time with these valves - many of which are well over 30 or 40 years since originally built in the home. <S> In all likelihood this will stpe the annoyuing slow leaking. <S> If not, yes, close the valve fully, then remove the handle and the 'packing nut' or 'gland nut' and takle to local plumbing store to pick up new packing. <S> Reinstall and you'll be fine. <S> No need to mess with the street water main. <S> In some places that's against the law so be aware.
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Use the right tools and try not to round off the nut. Any time I have to have the water supply turned off, I always opt to replace multi-turn valves with ball valves.
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Is there anything I can do to make it easier to remove plugs from receptacles? Is there anything I can do to make it easier to pull plug ins out of the wall sockets? All of the wall sockets in the kitchen make it very difficult to pull the plug in out of the wall receptacle. The toaster, the coffee maker, the can opener, the microwave, etc., are all difficult to pull out of the wall sockets in the kitchen. <Q> This will depend in part on where you are in the world. <S> Sockets in the UK can be very tight when new, but if you open them up you can often loosen the metal contacts so they don't grip the plug as tightly. <S> I would imagine sockets in other countries will also have similar adjustments possible. <S> Make sure you turn off current at the breaker/fuse box first! <S> This is still a low risk, so don't panic, but in general repeated plugging-in and removal will loosen and weaken the socket over time. <S> I do not unplug appliances in my kitchen, but just turn them off with the switches, which are designed for repeated use. <A> Source <S> These appear to stick onto your existing plugs. <S> You can get new plugs with a built in handle: UK Source <S> but these would require you to rewire all your appliances. <S> This is perfectly safe if done properly, so if you don't feel confident in doing it yourself you should be able to get an electrician to do it for you. <A> I recommend that you buy a power strip. <S> And, no more plugging and unplugging.
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You could try something like this attachments to make plug easier to pull out: If you are concerned that the appliances are disconnected when you're absent, then you can turn off the switch on the power strip. In general, though, I wouldn't advise doing this as it does increase the risk that you will get a bad electrical connection, which could lead to arcing and fire.
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