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How to unscrew screws that are barely accessible? I need to remove the face of a fake drawer that is screwed from behind. Unfortunately, a kitchen sink is preventing me from using a screwdriver. There is approximatively 4cm of space. The screw head is a PZ2. Is there a tool can could help me remove this screw ? <Q> You can use a ratchet handle with a screwdriver bit attachment, like this: <A> They're manufactured by many different companies, with many different drive variations. <A> If you have them a socket driver with the appropriate attachments is the best way, if not then you may have to improvise. <S> Using what you're likely to have in hand you can make a rig using a PZ2 bit and a locking pliers. <S> You lock the pliers on the driver end of the bit, maneuver it into the gap, then use one hand to stabilize the bit and push it into the screw while you use the other to turn the bit using the pliers. <S> Also, you can use a closed end of a combination wrench to turn the bit. <A> Here are a few solutions that are actually usable if you need to improvise. <S> They are clearly not optimal, but it would certainly have helped me at the time I asked the question. <S> I didn't own a multi tool back then. <S> The four solutions are based on Leatherman multi-tools (Sidekick and Rebar) in this specific case. <S> Leatherman multitools are sometimes sold with a flat carabiner which can drive bits. <A> Right Angle Driver : (likely available at your local store from random manufacturers) irwin.com <A> For tight places where there also isn't room to rotate a tool, a low-profile solution is a "squeeze wrench": <S> Different sockets or drivers, including special screwdriver bits, are held in a rotating collar. <S> Without moving the wrench, you loosen or tighten the fastener by squeezing the handle, which works a ratchet mechanism to turn the bit. <S> They are pretty widely available at places that sells tools. <S> They are very handy, but note that they won't give you heavy leverage if brute force is needed on a frozen fastener (well, unless you have the strength to crush walnuts in your bare hands). <A> In a really, really tight space, reach in with a nail that has a head that will fit in the screw slot and use the head to twist the screw a bit at a time.
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For tight spots, they make Offset Screwdrivers.
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What are the key criteria to consider when purchasing new locks and deadbolts? On twitter, the cofounder of GDGT Ryan Block comments : Surprisingly difficult to find a list of expert-recommended consumer locks, padlocks, etc. Lots on defeating security, but few suggestions. So I'm curious, what are the key criteria to consider when considering purchasing a new consumer grade lock or padlock, deadbolt and the like. Some examples of things that might be important are "look at the lock and see if it shows structure XYZ, which is a prime sign that the lock can be "bumped" ..." or perhaps "consumer padlocks should have ABC feature, because it signifies ...". <Q> The frame on your h*me depot door will break in half with no where near as much force as you think it would take. <S> your $200 mul-t-lock dead bolt will be rendered useless. <A> The lock/deadbolt isn't going to stop anyone from getting into your house. <S> Each is rated to some degree by how long it takes to pick. <S> Most can be drilled, but in general, any window can be kicked in with minimal force. <S> Do you have a back door /glass door/ cheap garage door? <S> If so, those are your weak points. <A> Your key requirements should realistically depend on what your home insurer requires. <S> If they specify a particular type of lock in order to meet a requirement / get a lower premium etc, then that is the type of lock you should fit. <S> Often apartments or managed properties will have a minimum requirement or a preferred supplier. <S> All locks do is delay a thief - certain types of locks will delay a thief more than others, but if someone wants to get into your property they will be unlikely to worry about the lock unless it is a very weak one. <S> They will simply kick in the door or break a window. <S> Of much greater importance, if you are worried about break-ins, is to fit a door which has a strong wood or metal core, with multiple anchor points around the frame activated by a deadbolt lock, and ensure the frame is solidly affixed to the structure of your property. <S> (As an aside, this is why lockpicks are now legal in the UK and various other countries - only lockpicking enthusiasts, locksmiths, law enforcement and spies use them. <S> Burglars use a brick, crowbar or their foot)
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Here's a suggestion: Make sure your door and frame are properly installed and REINFORCED before even considering installing any lock that is above consumer grade.
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How can I get High-CRI lighting for a small room? I plan to replace a CFL lighting fixture in a small room (10' x 15'), due to its being too dim and giving less-than-perfect light. I'd like to install something that would give me 3500K light with color rendering index (CRI) ≥ 85. My options are seemingly halogen and LED. I'm OK with replacing the fixture, adding transformers, etc. Halogen bulbs I encounter seem to have low power efficiency, below 20 lm/W ( example ). This means lots of heat, which I would rather avoid. LED bulbs I encounter usually have CRI of 80 or worse ( example ), which I would rather improve on. What am I missing? UPDATE: A cheap and relatively nice solution I ended up with is having several CFLs with various color temperatures, from 2700 to 5000. I understand that my "3500K" requirement was due to misunderstanding. Update Feb 2020: By now, high-CRI LEDs are not hard to come by, for any reasonable color temperature. My current setup with 3200K and 5000K srtips with independent dimmers proved to reproduce colors in a way which is hard to tell from natural sunlight. <Q> A quick check on Wikipedia suggests that below 5000K the Color rendering index is unreliable in the first place. <S> Incandescent lamps have a color temperature of between 2700-3300K and a CRI of 100. <A> You're not missing anything. <S> LEDs that have a high CRI is a relatively new market segment, so the selection is limited, and prices are high. <S> So the potential exists to equal or exceed the best fluorescents. <S> Right now, the consumer LED market is focused on replacing lamps in non critical applications, and thus tend to be rather low color temperature and only modest CRI levels. <S> This situation should improve in the future. <S> "High" CRI fluorescent tubes are available in color temperatures from 3000 to 6500K, with CRIs between 80 and 90, and at reasonable prices. <S> Right now, this is probably still a good solution for many applications. <S> If the performance of these lamps are not adequate, halogen lamps are the only reasonable alternative. <S> LEDs are not quite there yet. <A> Colour rendering index (CRI) is on a scale 0-100. <S> A halogen bulb will have a CRI of 100. <S> LED bulbs generally have a CRI lower than this as this is an area manufacturers can reduce costs. <S> Generally a CRI of 75-80 or more will be fine in the home, however anything less than this and the colour of objects may start to appear strange. <S> Philips have recently introduced a master LED bulb range with a CRI of 90. <S> The LEDIFY bulb available from leds4less have a CRI of 80-95 plus video showing side by side comparison with a traditional incandescent, halogen and energy saver versus a LED equivalent <A> 3500K is perfect lights CCT as sun light morning. <S> if to use in room, >85% CRI is Important.for 10' x 15' room, one 8w light is enough. <S> Lumen output 800lm with 85Ra CRI. <S> How to check the CRI is high or not, you can see your hand in sun light, then light your hand with the led light. <S> If the color is same, then CRI is high more than 80%. <S> The sun light is 100% CRI. <S> Hope <S> this can help you.
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LEDs use the same tricks as fluorescents to reach reasonable CRI levels-- multiple phosphors with different spectra excited by the lamp's primary EM emission.
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Are 2" roofing nails through the nailing fins of a new window enough to hold the window in place permanently? Is using 2" roofing nails on the nailing fins of new construction windows enough to hold them in place permanently? It seems to me like there should be some fasteners in the extension jambs, but maybe I'm just remembering back to when I installed some replacement windows (without nailing fins). <Q> Matthew PK offers some very specific instructions. <S> I happen to disagree with most of them, but they may work for some windows. <S> I will simply state that every new window comes with specific installation instructions. <S> You should follow them. <S> Otherwise you will void the manufacturer's warranty. <S> Here is an informative article from Fine Homebuilding: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/install-replacement-windows-and-flashing-correctly.aspx As far as fastening the jamb extensions to the trimmer stud goes - <S> unless the window installation instructions specifically forbid it you may want to shim and trim screw just to guarantee plumb/square. <S> The casing is typically what connects the jamb extension to the trimmer studs. <A> You should apply silicone in a thick bead under the flange, including under each fastener penetration. <S> Some people choose not to apply silicone to the bottom lip of the flange. <S> You should screw through every other flange hole. <S> Wipe silicone over the top of the fastener. <S> Some people choose to flash the framed opening as well, before mounting the window. <S> So, to answer your question: no, simply nailing the fins is insufficient . <A> Using silicone behind a vinyl window flange (flanges constructed as part of the window frame, not tapped on) will not only void most warranties but also have the potential to break the window in temperature changes. <S> Vinyl expands and contracts in hot and cold weather. <S> This is why many high quality siding panels have a thermometer taped onto each panel with the appropriate position to nail. <S> This is why Azek vinyl decking seams will look perfectly tight in one temperature and open up in another, only to find their way back to the tightened position the next morning. <S> This is also why many window flange nail holes are oblong shaped and not circular, to allow room for expansion. <S> Waterproofing comes from the outside prep not hidden under it.
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Finally, once the silicone is dry, you should apply flashing tape to the sides, then the top of the window.
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Why would cold water be introduced into underfloor heating system? What connection has the cold water distribution to a washing machine and laundry sink have to do with my heating? There is a tap-off from one of the flow pipes for the heating which goes through what I've been told is a 'balancing valve' to the cold water supply to these outlets.To have hot supply to heating connected to cold supply sinks etc. doesn't make sense to me but, as with other things plumbing (and electrical), what seems illogical to me is totally correct to those who know what they're doing. I would be grateful if anyone could give advice on this. <Q> As longneck mentions this is a pressure reducing valve and this connection of the domestic cold water to your heating system is called the system make-up. <S> It used to fill the system and to maintain the heating system's pressure. <S> The knob on the top can be turned to adjust the system's pressure and should be done while the system is static. <S> However, a pressure reducing valve is not a cross connection device and should not be considered as one. <S> While by its nature it creates a lower pressure on the heating side then that of the domestic side (therefore not allowing the water to back feed due to the pressure difference), if there is a drop of pressure on the domestic side (the required significance would depend on the domestic system pressure) or if the safety mechanisms on the heating side fail (such as the boiler fails to cut off and the pressure relieve valve fails to open) the heating side can result in a higher system pressure then that of the domestic side. <S> This valve will not prevent back-flow in such scenarios. <S> For true cross connection prevention you would need a double check valve or a reduced pressure back-flow assembly. <S> One last note: if you shut off the system make-up be sure to periodically check that the heating system maintains its set pressure. <S> If the system drops too low you could cause damage to your heating source if it doesn't have built-in low water cut-off. <A> The looks like a pressure reducing valve. <S> Is there also a shutoff valve on the cold side? <S> There should be, and it should be closed. <S> The connection to the cold water plumbing is used to fill the radiant heating system with water. <A> Here's an attempt at a simplified answer. <S> Your heating system has to get filled with water at some point. <S> In normal operation, it will be re-heating and re-circulating the same water, and have no interaction with your domestic water supply. <S> However, if the heating loop loses water (e.g. if there is a leak, or if it is drained, or if you extend the system) there needs to be a way to add water into the system. <S> Because the heating loop should be kept at a limited pressure, this is typically done with a pressure-reducing valve, as you have pictured. <S> This lets the higher-pressure cold water supply flow into the heating system, but only when the heating loop is below a certain pressure. <S> This avoids over-pressurizing your heating system, which would lead to premature wear and failure. <S> In addition, there is usually a backflow prevention valve installed between your cold water supply and the pressure-reducing valve. <S> This ensures that even if there is an unexpected drop in cold water supply pressure, your heating water is not sucked into your domestic water supply. <S> You want to avoid that as your heating water has been sitting for a long time in pipes and fixtures that may not be rated for domestic water, and you don't want to drink that. <S> A backflow prevention valve is purely a safety device, though, and may not have been required when your system was installed (although US building codes do now require them for new work).
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The pressure reducing valve serves two purposes: 1) it limits the incoming water pressure to the level required by your heating system, and 2) it acts as a one-way valve to prevent the water in your heating system from contaminating your domestic hot water.
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Should I get a keyed chuck for cordless drill? I am thinking of getting a Milwaukee M18 fuel drill/ driver combo. The drill is insane with 750in-lbf of torque. It comes with a hand tighten chuck though. My other Milwaukee corded screwdriver has a key tighten chuck and I like how tight I can get it. My current drill (very old 9.6v Ni-Cad drill) has a 3/8in hand-tighten chuck. When I drill through steel with this chuck it comes loose. I'm not sure if more modern hand tighten chucks like the one on the M18 are better or not. If I do get this new drill would it be worth it to get a new chuck, or would the one it comes with be sufficient? <Q> I have a hand-tighten chuck on my cordless (a Makita) and I've never had any issues. <S> However most of my bits are spin-resistant (i.e. they have chamfers). <S> I've used it with a step bit to drill 7/8" holes through stainless steel. <S> If that drill has a user-replaceable chuck, you could always just start with the stock one and upgrade if needed... <A> The drill you refer to has a single-ring chuck that is operated with one arm. <S> Its surface is large enough so that you can have reliable grip and apply enough torque to the chuck to tighten/loosen it in all reasonable situations. <S> I've used a similar drill of another brand with the same chuck design - <S> the chuck operation and reliability are just excellent. <S> You don't need a keyed chuck instead of this one - <A> Here is my two cents worth. <S> A lot depends on the particular model and how it is used. <S> My preference is keyless for 3/8" cordless drills and keyed for 1/2".
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a keyed chuck comes with risk of losing the key and with risk of injuring the hand should it slip while tightening.
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How should I insulate a room built into a metal barn? I'm building a room into our (existing) barn; how should I best go about insulating it? The barn is a Morton building -- pole barn construction, metal siding. It's closed on three sides but open on the fourth, so it's not as much a closed-in building as a glorified run-in. The room I'm building will be against one corner, so two sides are defined by the walls of the existing barn, and the other two sides are framed up and built inside the existing structure. The floor of the room is a concrete pad; the rest of the barn is a dirt floor. I'd planned on doing standard kraft-faced fiberglass, just like I'd do in a house. However, I've read that the moisture in a metal building can build up on the insulation and cause it to mold. I've certainly noticed that on certain days there's plenty of humidity that builds up in the barn (enough to cause water to condense on the inside of the metal siding). So: is the fiberglass a bad idea? If so, what should I do instead? Should I do a moisture barrier on the outside of the room (between the framing and the metal barn sides)? Or...? <Q> The links in the other answers are very informative! <S> In answer to your question: So: is the fiberglass a bad idea? <S> The answer is yes, at least in the exterior walls. <S> In answer to your question: If so, what should I do instead? <S> You have a bunch of options, none as cheap as simple fiberglass batts. <S> Pricey but effective. <S> At the risk of losing a few square feet of floor space, why not just build the room free-standing in the corner, with maybe a couple of framing attachments (e.g. longer ceiling joists) to the barn walls? <S> That way you can do a simple wall with sheetrock both sides and fiberglass insulation in all four walls and the ceiling. <A> Sounds analogous to insulating the interior of a basement wall. <S> Rigid or spray foam next to the metal, then a stud wall with drywall, according to here: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-insulate-basement-wall <A> http://www.insulation4less.com/Insulation4lessTechnicalArticles-49-Metal-Building-Insulation.aspx <S> This article seems to indicate that a product called "Prodex" isn't affected by humidity or water.
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My personal recommendation would be rigid foam on the exterior walls and ceiling with fiberglass batts on the newly built walls. Essentially, you're going to be building a little tiny insulated house inside the barn without the need to weatherproof it.
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Why is it taking so long for my house to heat up? Firstly, I should probably mention that I'm in the UK... My wife and I bought a house new from a builder over 9 years ago and have had no problems whatsoever with our central heating system in that time. It is a typical modern system with a gas boiler in the kitchen feeding radiators upstairs and downstairs and a pressurised hot water system. The radiators have thermostatic valves on them (except for one in the entrance hall). Earlier this year, I contracted a local plumber to do 4 things: Replace the original ("bimetallic") thermostat with a more modern programmable thermostat so that we could keep the heating on over night but at a lower temperature Service the boiler (for no real reason other than that it was 9+ years old and had never been looked at) Re-balance the radiators Re-pressurise the hot water system as the showers had lost their original mains water pressure The system has never been quite right since but of course we haven't really been able to pin anything down until the recent cold weather. We are now seeing the following: For a while, the thermostat would call for heat, but the boiler wouldn't fire up. The boiler casing was very, very hot, so I suspect overheat protection had kicked in. When the boiler does fire, it doesn't stay on for more than a minute and then goes of for 2-3 minutes before firing up again. Again, suspicious that it is overheating. As a result of the above, it can take all day to get the house up to temperature (20C) The plumber came to investigate last week and made a number of noises about the pump overrun not working, and the possibility of a pump failure, but ruled both of those out. He made some adjustments and now: The boiler appears to fire up reliably, although it does cut out periodically. He assures me this is normal and that it switches itself off while the water is circulated. I can't honestly say I was aware of it doing this before the summer. The radiators get too hot to touch, but I'd swear you used to be able to feel the heat radiating from them up to 12+ inches away which you no longer can. But still the house is very slow to heat (it appears to heat up at a bit under 1C per hour). The house is a fairly typical British 4 bed detached (c. 1800 sqft) and is relatively modern (being newly built 9 years ago) so has pretty good thermal characteristics. So my questions are: Does taking 8+ hours to get the house warm sound right? I'd swear it used to be warm within an hour or so of the heating coming on. What further diagnoses can I perform to help (the plumber and/or you good folks) identify the problem. Does it sound reasonable to assume (having had 9+ years of faultless service) that my problems stem from the work done in the summer? Perhaps a valve was closed while the plumber worked that he subsequently forgot to open, or something like that? Taken together, all the symptoms sound to me like the hot water is not being circulated around the system quickly enough (boiler over temperature, house not heating up), and the plumber would appear to agree. He seems rather keen to fit a bigger pump. But I'm reluctant given that the system has worked fine for so long previously. Sorry for the rambling post, but I'm pretty much at my wits' end with this and we have two small children that we'd really like to keep warm over the winter. <Q> You've bought a programmable thermostat so you can lower the temperature of the house at night, however by doing that you are making it much harder work for the boiler to bring the house back up to temperature. <S> Before your house was at a constant temperature <S> so you boiler would turn on for a bit, off for a bit, on a bit, off a bit over the whole day. <S> Now it goes off for a long time and your house gets cold, then it has to run a very long time to get it back up to temperature again, leading it to overheat and shut down. <S> Try setting your night-time temperature a bit higher and see if that improves the situation. <S> It could also be that your system is gunked up, leading to poor water circulation in your system. <S> Did you have your heating engineer put a cleaner in the system? <S> If not, have him try it. <A> So, nearly a year later I think I've got this solved! <S> It appears that the bypass valve was left almost fully open. <S> This explains a lot. <S> The "path of least resistance" is for the water to use the bypass circuit to return to the boiler instead of going around the radiators, which explains why it was taking forever for the house to heat up. <S> Now, the water returning to the boiler is almost as hot as the water leaving, having lost very little of its heat in the brief trip to the bypass circuit and back. <S> This explains why the boiler shuts down very quickly. <S> It is expecting a much larger temperature difference between the output and the return and hence gets very hot very quickly. <S> In the mean time, the pump continues to circulate hot water around the bypass circuit. <A> To help you compare, I'm in NY <S> and my 2400 sqft home takes approx. <S> 30-60 minutes to reach 20C (68F) <S> when outdoors its 4C (40F). <S> My house was built in 1960, but the windows are double-pane and were replaced ~8 years ago. <S> The roof was replaced at the same time. <S> I'm far from an expert, but I would suggest getting a different professional to take a look. <S> Here in NY, I have a contract with the Oil company to perform service was needed. <S> They take care of any maintenance related to heating. <S> The scenario you presented, specifically that your house would heat up in a timely manner before, leads me to believe something was either changed or broken since the last maintenance. <S> Note, I do not mean to imply it was the cause, just that it was since then. <S> A second professional opinion looks to be worth it. <A> The new digital room stats start shutting down in pulses before they reach the set temperature these pulses or gaps get longer the nearer it gets to the set temperature. <S> This works great with a highly insulated house but feels like it never gets hot in an old house. <S> You will have to turn up the desired temperature an extra degree to overcome it.
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It may be your boiler simply doesn't have the grunt to heat your house for that long.
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How can I fill a screw hole so it can be used again? My dishwasher attaches to the cabinets on the side via a screw. This hole has become a little stripped, is there a way to fill it in and then screw in to it again? I can't change the location of where the dishwasher attaches. <Q> If you are lacking a wooden peg or the skills to make one use round wooden toothpicks. <S> Coat the toothpicks with woodglue. <S> Place as many toothpicks in the hole as will fit. <S> Gently tap in one more with a hammer. <S> Break off any bits of toothpick that protrude from the hole. <S> After the glue has dried, reinstall the screw. <A> Clean out the hole of debris and then carve a tapered peg from another piece of wood that will start into the hole. <S> Fill the hole with wood glue and then pound in your peg. <S> Let it dry overnight and then cut off the remainder of the peg flush with the surface. <S> At this point you can drill a new pilot hole for your screws. <A> If you have access to the inside of the cabinet you could replace the wood screw with T-nut and a machine screw. <S> You would need to drill the hole to fit the T-nut and place the T-nut on the inside of the cabinet. <S> Again, this only works if you have access to both sides of the cabinet wall. <A> I'd use something like a small screwdriver to fill each hole with epoxy, liberally coat the peg/matchstick/toothpicks with more epoxy and pound them in, cut them off flush, then stick a piece of tape over the hole to keep the epoxy in place until it hardens. <S> (Clean up the mixing surface and tools with alcohol.) <A> The quickest and easiest solution: Use a bigger screw. <S> A larger diameter screw of the same length will fill the hole. <S> I have done this to hold my own dishwasher in, and in numerous other scenarios. <S> I know a lot of cabinet material is crappy particle board which is not very durable. <S> Also, in cases where you are not worried about the screw coming out the other side (door hinges for example), a longer screw will work as well (and better). <A> Tap a plastic wall plug into the hole, the sort you'd normally use in brick or concrete walls, or a screw in wall plug if it's a cavity wall. <A> Golf tees work great. <S> may need to drill out first to get enough of the tee in the space--coat with plenty of glue and allow time for it to completely dry. <S> Cut carefully with utility knife. <A> 2' of 3/8" wood dowel from the handicraft section in Walmart for under a buck is my preferred choice. <S> Drill out the cavity with a 3/8" bit, clear out any residue. <S> use epoxy on the cavity and dowel, twist while inserting and trim to fit. <S> Predrill for new screw <S> and you are done. <S> You can stain the dwell end to touch it up for a match. <S> Good luck!
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I agree with using wooden pegs, matchsticks, or toothpicks to fill the holes, but rather than wood glue I recommend epoxy because it's better at filling spaces, and doesn't need clamping to form a strong bond.
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Where can I find very strong wall brackets capable of supporting a punch bag? I'm looking for an alternative to brackets actually made for punch bags as those available to me are very expensive. I need a bracket capable of holding a ~35kg/77lb punch bag that would be swinging around. Ideally a part of it would stick out giving the bag some space. I'm struggling to think of what these brackets might be called so I can find a way to search for shops who sell them etc. If it has no mounting holes, I could drill one, so that doesn't matter too much. <Q> I tried to think of an adaptive use of some common building product but drew blanks. <S> That may be why purpose made ones are expensive. <S> If it really seems exorbitant, you might be able to get a local metal shop to fabricate one for less. <S> For that matter, someone with decent carpentry skills could build one from wood. <S> The joint designs would be critical to ensure they are strong enough and don't vibrate apart. <S> Something of welded steel would be a lot more idiot proof. <S> Is there a possibility of hanging the bag from the ceiling? <S> This is more likely a DIY solution. <S> There's been a few questions recently about this here. <S> The key is to use multiple fasteners such as lag screws to engage multiple ceiling joists to spread out the load. <A> One thing to consider if you're mounting this bag on the wall, all the weight is going to be supported by 2 nails per stud that attach the stud to the top plate. <S> These nails are preventing the stud from pulling out from the wall and falling over. <S> I don't have a lot of confidence that you can hang a heavy bag from one or two studs without causing damage that could risk the structural stability of your home. <S> If you can, I would encourage you to consider a free standing solution that distributes the weight across a large area of your floor. <S> They're not cheap, but they are a lot more affordable than the repair bill if you accidentally pull down a wall. <A> These particular brackets are 24 inches in length and if triangulated as shown below on studs that at 16 inches on center you would achieve a projection from the wall of about 22 inches to the place you could hang the bag. <S> Several different techniques could be used to provide the mount point for the bag but the easiest may be to simply use the brackets up-side down and use the loop near the end on each bracket. <S> Another way may be to bolt through the end with a good sized bolt with a couple of large washers. <S> An S-hook or similar could be secured around the middle of this bolt. <S> You can place spacers behind the mounting flanges or bend them to be flat against the wall. <S> It may be advisable to mount a piece of sturdy wood on the wall between the mounting flanges and the wall surface to bride between the studs and add strength. <S> If you used a piece of 2x8 or 2x10 that was about 24 inches in length several additional advantages would be realized. <S> One would be more projection and another it may allow you more flexibility of where locate the bag mount point of directly midway between studs was not ideal. <S> I found this particular pair of brackets at Amazon . <S> They are probably available also at shelving stores. <A> Mejier has a punching bag bracket on sale. <S> Much cheaper than other dedicated punching bag solutions, and only slightly more expensive than the DIY solution. <S> http://www.meijer.com/s/century-wall-mount-heavy-bag-hanger/_/R-214858 <A> If it really must be attached to the wall, I would go with heavy-duty shelf brackets, like these: <S> The 16"x18" version like this one at Home Depot is rated for 600 lbs each. <S> I would use two, anchoring each to a stud with lag bolts. <S> I would then bridge between them with 3/4" plywood, and probably a 2x4 on top of the plywood at the point you want to attach the heavy bag. <S> Using two plus the plywood platform would keep the brackets from racking as the bag swings.
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How about you get two of these type brackets (they come in a pair) and mount them to two adjacent studs but triangulate them together to a mount point for the punch bag to hang from.
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How can I stop interior doors from opening when exterior doors are opened? In our church every time someone comes into the building through the main entrance, the interior main sanctuary doors come open and make it possible to hear noise from the hallway. Is there some piece of hardware that can be installed on the sanctuary doors to prevent them from opening from the exchange of air flow but still allow entrance into the sanctuary? <Q> You have two problems really and you can choose to solve one, the other or both. <S> First is the easier one, securing your doors so they can't be opened by the air. <S> As Gunner mentioned, a ball latch/catch might work however they are designed to allow the door to open with a bit of force. <S> (source: homedepot.ca ) <S> Other options include a bolt that you manually open at the top/bottom, or a panic bar: <S> (source: keylessaccesslocks.com ) <S> The second way to tackle this problem is to prevent the vacuum that is occurring when the doors are opened. <S> You likely need vents to allow air to flow between the two rooms - either slats in the door or more dedicated HVAC. <A> Here's one example: <S> This won't work if your doors swing both in and out. <A> Install a closer on the interior door. <S> This should keep the door closed and the pressure from the outside door will find equalization elsewhere.
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A magnetic closet door catch (similar to a magnetic cabinet door latch) may provide enough "stickiness" to keep the vacuum from opening the door, but require less force than a ball catch.
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Is it expensive to switch from an 80% to a 90% efficient furnace, to comply with the new mandate? I'm told by some HVAC companies via mail flyers and websites ( example ) that it may be very expensive to retrofit new PVC pipes to update an 80% efficient furnace to a 90% one. Therefore, the logic goes, it's better to install a new 80% furnace now before the new mandate takes place on May 1, 2013. Does that ring true? <Q> PVC is relatively inexpensive so the main cost is installing it. <S> If your furnace is near an exterior wall, they'll simply make a hole in that wall and run the lines directly out. <S> If your furnace isn't close to an exterior wall, then you need to run the lines through the ceiling, preferably in the direction of the joists, until you reach an exterior wall. <S> If that ceiling is already finished with drywall and has other utilities running through the space, then the expense will be to open the ceiling and get the vents properly routed. <S> Drywall repair can be a DIY job, though mudding the joints tends to be an art if you want it to look perfect. <S> And most HVAC installers would likely outsource that job to another contractor. <S> The second contractor is where the price on the job can start to jump. <S> That said, the added cost is only in that specific scenario, which is a minority of the installs. <S> And you'll recoup that cost over time with a more efficient HVAC. <S> Therefore, I'd avoid prematurely replacing a furnace since that will be the most expensive option of all. <S> And I'd also recommend against using contractors that are sending out fliers or knocking on doors to get business. <S> The good ones don't have to look for work, they've got a waiting list for their services. <A> Is it expensive? <S> Well that depends on your definition of "expensive", the amount of work you need to do, and who you get to do the work. <S> 90% efficient furnaces require PVC venting directly outside, as opposed to using a chimney like the older 80% furnaces do. <S> If your furnace is in the middle of a finished basement it's going to be much more expensive than if it's on the outside wall, simply because it requires opening up drywall, routing around obstacles in the walls, etc. <A> My new house was built with a high efficiency condensing furnace and the pipes they use look just like lawn sprinkler pipes. <S> Low pressure PVC pipes like these are very cheap for materials and very easy to work with. <S> Almost any tool can cut them and joints are just glued. <S> In my case, the pipes just ran straight to the nearest exterior wall, outside and then terminated with a down facing 90 degree elbow. <S> If there were a window that was too close, I'm sure they could just run the pipe up until it was far enough above the window. <S> I've never had a finished basement <S> so I don't know how important it would be to hide the pipes in that case. <S> Do you guys actually hide the ducts too? <S> Doesn't that make for a very low ceiling? <S> Aside from that, I would not stay awake at night about exhaust pipes. <A> This seems like a clever marketing strategy; as mentioned by Gregmac and Bmitch, the extra cost for the 90% install can be quite variable; you might want to start with an estimate, so you have the facts. <S> Put the money you'd spend today to replace the furnace aside for a future replacement, or use it to improve insulation, weatherstrip, or similar to reduce your energy bill.
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The extra expense is entirely dependent on how easy it is to route these pipes from your furnace to a suitable location outside (which I believe has minimum clearance requirements from windows and doors). In general, I would only consider this if you think your existing furnace is at the end of its life; otherwise, you might as well wait until you reach that point.
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How do I fix the cracks in my brick foundation? I have some cracks in the foundation of the house I am about to buy. The house is 100 years old, there doesn't seem to be water leaks. The cracks don't look to be offset.Attached is the picture (sorry for the quality, I got it from inspector). This is townhouse and there are two houses on the sides which I believe are touching my foundation on the outside. The question is - how hard is it to fix the cracks? Can I do it myself and if I can - what literature would you recommend? The guy who inspected the house said the cracks don't seem to be dangerous since they are not too wide and there is no staggering. <Q> If the cracks aren't new, then there's really nothing to 'stabilize' as that's already happened over the past 100 years. <S> If they are new, then you have bigger problems and need a structural engineer out there to figure out why your footers are sinking. <S> Assuming they are old cracks, if you don't have water problems, you don't really need to do anything with them. <S> But if you do want to seal them, and you're going to cover them (so not overly worried about aesthetics) then a hydraulic cement product is what you are looking for such as <A> As these walls appear to be load bering, I'd probably call a proper mason if your really looking to repair the cracks. <S> On the cheap and easy side, you could probably use this: Waterproofing <S> If you really, want to try to repair the crack yourself, I found this: How to do brick / concrete repairs <S> I edited the content, here is the jist: <S> Begin by cleaning all crumbling brick and mortar from the crack with a cold chisel and sledgehammer. <S> Where the crack runs through a brick or a concrete block, use a brick chisel, angled into the crack, to widen and undercut the break. <S> Enlarge the crack to a consistent width and clean the inside of the crack to its full depth, or as far in as you can reach. <S> Wire-brush the crack, inside and out, to remove debris, then flush it thoroughly with water from a garden hose. <S> Cracks that affect only a single layer of brick can be filled with mortar. <S> Mix a small amount of mortar according to the directions on the package. <S> Spread a little mortar on a scrap of corrugated cardboard, where it will dry quickly and reveal its true color. <S> Mix enough mortar to fill the crack. <S> Spray the crack thoroughly with the garden hose. <S> Treat the crack as one long joint, filling cleaned-out joints and the gaps in broken bricks or concrete block evenly all along the crack. <S> When the crack is solidly packed with mortar, finish the surface with a jointer and the trowel. <S> Match the old joints where the crack follows a joint: trowel the mortar to match the surface where the mended surface is block or brick. <S> Let the crack cure thoroughly for at least 1 week. <S> Spray the patched area lightly with the garden hose several times a day during the curing period. <A> You have cracks. <S> Which everyone is telling you is not a problem. <S> You can repoint the brick and the surface cracks will disappear at least until the wall shifts again, at which point they'll telegraph back out. <S> You can decide what you want to do <S> but the consensus seems to be that you don't need to do anything to them. <S> The consensus also seems to be that you may have water concerns, but based on the photos I would say you probably don't. <S> Put up the furring, and hang the drywall. <S> Cracks disappear like magic.
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Fill the crack with mortar using a small, sharp trowel to force the mortar into the full depth of the crack.
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How do I reduce the number of screw pops in my drywall? Background: I'm gluing and screwing 5/8 in drywall on the ceiling in my own home. I'm attaching it with screws and construction adhesive directly to the attic joists -- which are 16 in OC. I'm placing 12- and 8-by-4 sheets perpendicular to the joists. And I'm putting in one screw at each of the beveled the ends, then four screws in between those two -- 6 screws total over the 4-ft width of the sheet. This is part of a remodel of my own home. Given the much larger cost of the general remodel, I'm not interested in skimping on drywall materials or techniques. I'm using a drywall screwgun to dimple the screws to just the right depth without cutting the paper. Question: What else can I do when installing drywall to reduce the number of drywall screw pops? <Q> Where I'm from, the ceiling schedule for drywall nails and screws is 7 <S> " O.C. From your description you're closer to 11 <S> " O.C. <S> Particularly when you're using a heavy sheet like a 12' x 4' x 5/8" sheet I recommend strongly a jack to hold the drywall in place as you screw it. <S> You can rent one at any major tool rental yard. <S> Also may I recommend picking up a carpentry or plasterer's textbook. <S> They offer many helpful tips and techniques for a stellar sheetrock job. <S> Two examples: "Carpentry, 5th edition" by Leonard Koel, or specifically for drywall: Gypsum Construction Handbook, Centennial Edition 2000, published by USG. <A> If your screws are at the right depth, then pops are an indication of pressure from behind. <S> Make sure your joists are flat which would cause the drywall itself to bow and strain. <S> And also be sure that there isn't any weight from above (e.g. insulation) until the glue has time to dry. <S> You should also be sure your screwing directly into the joist and that nothing with any flexibility is in between. <A> When using screws if they "pop" out the only real reason for this can be two things 1). <S> the screws hadn't pulled the drywall tight to the stud during initial installation or 2). <S> the wood stud has dried and shrunk altering the depth of the screw. <S> This should only occur on a new construction where the wood studs have too high on moisture content. <S> My two cents. <A> Here in Georgia they're called "nail pops". <S> When I first saw one I asked our builder why they would use nails instead of screws?! <S> Seriously, after the first year in our new home we had at least a couple hundred nail pops. <S> Luckily they came around and patched them all - I guess they figure patch work is cheaper than just using screws in the first place. <S> I don't know, I've always used screws. <S> Honestly though, if you're remodeling then I'm guessing your home <S> is already aged a bit and might not settle as much, which means you should get a lot less nail pops on the area you are remodeling. <S> Other than gluing and using screws, which you are already doing, I'm not sure what you could do other than just plan to patch a few. <A> The problem with screw pops is that the plaster (the skim) that's put onto the plasterboard doesn't bond with the screw heads. <S> Pushing lightly on plasterboards, I've found a lot of hidden screw pops. <S> Using plaster to repair the screw pops, the screw pops eventually come back. <S> In the end, I had to use Polycel Flexible Polyfil which seemed to bond to the screw heads a lot better. <S> NHBC and the builder told me that screw pops are not covered under snagging. <S> I'm surprised that screw heads are not covered with something first, but that's not required under building regulations, according to NHBC. <S> All the screws seems to be secure and have sunk into the plasterboards. <S> All the screws are black in colour. <S> I was recently told that putting tape over the screws is the only solution, but it's not required under building regulations.
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I've read on many forums about tightening screws, making sure the right screws are used and the amount of screws used per plasterboard, but the main problem is the plaster doesn't bond with the screw heads. If none of that helps, then most likely you are screwing too deep. The important thing is to differentiate between a "pop" and a hole. Living in a new build house, a lot of screw pops have come through, nearly all of the screw pops are on ceilings.
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Can I use 2x4s to extend studs so I can mount my TV? I need to mount my 55" TV to the left of the studs. Can I do this simply by running a couple 2x4s off the studs, and then connecting the mount to the 2x4s? While I imagine this can be done for lighter items, I want to make sure it will work with the heavy mount + TV. Here's an image of what I'm talking about. The black rectangles are the studs, the tan ones are the 2x4s, and the red dots are where the bolts for the mount will go into the 2x4s. <Q> You don't want the weight of the TV to pull the 2x4s away from the wall on the left side. <S> A 55" TV is going to be heavy and the eccentricity caused by the spacing of the wood and the bracket will cause it to pull away. <S> Personally I would probably use a single piece of plywood — it will have a lower profile and will provide plenty of opportunities for getting strong fasteners into the studs. <S> But 2x4s will be cheap (or free, if you've got some lying around), are easy to cut, and should work fine. <A> I encourage you to use plywood. <S> Half inch thick plywood would be fine, provided (1) it's also fastened to the stud left of the TV and (2) the TV mount is fastened to the plywood with bolts, not wood screws. <S> That means either the plywood is spaced out from the wall to give room for the bolt head or nut, or else you counter-sink the holes on the wall side of the plywood and use flat-head machine screws to fasten it to the TV mount. <A> But - if you drill your own holes in the mount, can't you hit at least two studs <S> no matter where you put it? <A> Had the same issue, used 2x4s I had laying around, went overkill and bolted them into three studs, that TV is not going anywhere. <S> It does space the TV away from the wall a little, but I do not mind <S> , it gives better access to the cabling and I have speakers on either side anyway. <S> In a nod to aesthetics, I did paint the boards to match. <S> Be sure to drill pilot holes through the 2x4s and into the studs first <S> and of course use a level. <A> I don't see a problem with this as long as you use 4 large lag screws in each 2x4. <S> It will never go anywhere. <S> Also if you don't want your TV to stick out quite this far then you could probably use 1x4 instead. <A> I tried this exact technique using 2 1x4’s mounted over drywall across two studs with four large lag bolts. <S> I then secured the tv mount to the 1/4s with 4 large bolts as well. <S> Long story short, the weight of the 65” led tv ripped the top bolts out of the 1x4. <S> Thankfully I was close enough when it happened to catch it. <S> Now i am trying to decide if i should use plywood with lag bolts to studs then <S> overkill the mount with toggle straps AND bolts.
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This should be OK, but I would recommend attaching the 2x4s to studs on both sides of the TV, not just the right side as you've shown. I would use plywood and paint it to match the wall.
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How to choose between chrome-coated and oxidation-treated tools? How do I choose between a chrome-coated (nice and shiny) and an oxidation-treated (dark oxidized surface) tool, all else being equal - same steel, same design, same handles, just one has its metal parts chrome-coated and the other has its metal parts oxidized. How do I make a choice? <Q> IN MY EXPERIENCE:Chrome resists rust better. <S> But does sometimes chip, and is vulnerable to rust at those points. <S> Chrome is generally easier to read the markings. <S> Polished chrome can be slipperier when greasy. <S> (Not matte chrome) <S> Black oxide resists rust generally fine for my purposes. <S> It looks better when it's greasy, <S> (It doesn't show the grease as bad, since grease is almost black). <S> It can occasionally be a challenge to read the markings, depending on the circumstances. <S> It's not as slippery as polished chrome. <S> As the user, you pick which benefits <S> /problems you'd rather have. <S> I personally don't really care that much. <S> I have some of each. <S> All things being equal, I'd choose matte chrome, then black oxide. <S> Polished chrome last. <A> I prefer the oxide coating. <S> The chrome tends to chip on the highest stress points. <S> At least in my opinion the chrome is more slippery when wet than the oxide coating. <S> Plus impact sockets are black, so black sockets and wrenches look tougher right. <A> I think chipped chrome is a sign of defective plating and/or poor heat treatment of the underlying steel (not properly hardened). <S> I would expect the chrome plated tool to be more expensive. <S> If both price and features were the same, I would suspect they'd taken shortcuts with the chrome plated tool, and would buy the black oxide treated tool instead. <A> Chrome wears more, is softer than the underlying metal, at least if it's a quality tool. <S> This creates poor fitment and loss of force, damaging fasteners, and it's more slippery. <S> There are only two good reasons to choose chromed. <S> Either you're a monkey fascinated by shiny things (aren't we all?) <S> or you're in an environment where it is difficult for you to put forth sufficient attention to keep tools from rusting.
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I prefer chrome, because I expect it to give better rust protection.
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Will insulating pipes shorten the time it takes for hot water to reach the faucet? Ok, so I took a few weekends and totally insulated all hot water pipes I could get access to from the water heater. Now, I still wait approx 90 seconds for hot water to reach the farthest faucet from the water heater. So my question, does anyone find insulating pipes useful? I feel like I wasted time and money. The insulation I used was both fiber and foam. I'm now looking at water circulation pumps but the wife is skeptical of my projects to have hot water fast at that farthest faucet. <Q> Insulating water pipes reduces the speed that they lose their temperature with the ambient air. <S> This can reduce the risk of the pipes freezing in an outdoor location. <S> For the indoors, it keeps the pipes warmer for longer, which may help for frequent tasks that don't require hot water, like hand washing. <S> But once the pipes have cooled off it doesn't increase the speed that water takes to travel from the hot water heater to your fixtures. <S> If you need to reduce that time, you may want to consider adding a hot water recirculating pump that ensures the water is always hot at your fixture. <A> I did the same last year and noticed the same: time to get hot water at the extremities seems the same because the pipes are cold after a long period of time no matter what. <S> What I haven't got a feeling for is whether it's quicker to get hot water after the pipe has been heated recently. <S> We just don't have water usage that would benefit from that, yet. <S> I think/hope that in that use case the performance will be a bit better. <S> The alternative that I view is having some kind of recirculation system, but I don't know how to calculate the benefits of that. <S> It seems like a lot of energy could be wasted if things don't exactly fit the schedule of the recirculation system. <A> To eliminate the wait, you can add a second pipe back to the tank (connecting to the cold water intake pipe, or thereabouts) and a circulator pump. <S> The pump could be small. <S> There may be smart systems that shut it off late at night or while you're on vacation. <S> You would definitely want all those pipes insulated.
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Insulating the pipes will of course make the water in the pipes cool down slower, but once it's too cool for your shower (or whatever), you'll still have to wait the same time for hot water to arrive from the tank.
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How do I properly cut pre-existing kitchen backsplash tile for new low voltage wall plates? I'm doing a little bit of kitchen remodeling, overflow from my home theater remodeling. I'm adding some RCA input ports to a pre-existing low voltage wall plate that previously hosted just Cat5 and RG6. Problem is, when this plate was first installed (before I was here), enough room was made only for the cat5 and RG6 aligned vertically. Low voltage wall plate cutout: Current Wallplate: As you can see from the picture, I rather foolishly thought I could just chisel the tile along the edges and break more off. My question is somewhat twofold I suppose: How do I properly cut the pre-existing backsplash tile, and how do I fix the damage I've already caused? <Q> Tile setters use carbide tipped nibblers to trim tiles by small amounts. <S> You would need to have access to the back of the edge you want to trim off <S> so you can grab it with the trimmers. <S> You take small bites, clip clip clip, until you have removed what you need to. <S> There is still the possibility of cracking the tile, but this is your best bet for trimming small amounts off ceramic tile. <A> Diamond Blade http://www.lowes.com/pd_349423-353-OSC312DG_0__?productId=3380378 <S> You probably wouldn't want to use a carbide blade for tile or grout as it will get chewed up and damaged very quickly. <S> NOTE: <S> Unless you are purposely trying to destroy an entire piece, it is never a good idea to chisel any type of glass or ceramic as you have already found out. <A> I would recommend neither in this case. <S> I would use a small masonry bit and drill several holes outlining around the edges of where the new box will be and then simply use a screwdriver and tap between each hole to make a larger space. <S> The same method works for making a large hole in a concrete block. <S> Should be cheaper than buying or renting some tool too.
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What would probably work best for cutting tile that has already been placed would be a quality oscillating tool with a diamond blade.
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What is the difference between equivalent watts and lumens? I have two lamps 6W LED (OSRAM 50R): equiv 40W or 170 lm 15W WW827 Tornado Philips, equiv 85W or 950 lumen Why the 2x power difference and 6x luminosity difference? <Q> There are a couple terms involved that all have specific meanings: <S> Watts : the amount of electricity used by the bulb (a.k.a. "power") <S> Lumens : the amount of visible light the bulb produces (a.k.a. "luminosity") <S> Equivalent watts : an approximate incandescent bulb wattage that outputs a similar amount of light. <S> Higher means better efficiency. <S> There's not a direct relationship between watts and lumens, but you can look at the luminous efficiency to compare bulbs. <S> Wikipedia lists values for common household bulb types: <S> Incandescent bulb: 12-18 lumens / watt <S> Halogen incandescent: 24 lumens / watt <S> Compact fluorescent: 45-75 lumens / watt <S> LED: <S> 60-100+ lumens / watt <S> The LED you list has an efficiency of 28 lumens / watt, which is pretty poor for an LED. <S> LEDs have been increasing in their efficiency; maybe it's an older model? <S> Your CFL is 63 lumens / watt, which is pretty good for a CFL. <S> Compare those to the current gold standard for mass-market LED bulbs, Philips' L-prize LED , which puts out 940 lumens using 10 watts, or 94 lumens / watt. <S> You're also seeing the problem with "equivalent watts", which is kind of an unhelpful metric. <S> I don't know if there's any regulation on what manufacturers can claim as the incandescent equivalent, but I've seen bulbs as low as 700 <S> lumens and as high as 950 lumens all claim to be "60 watt equivalent". <S> Even among incandescents there's a range of light output for a specific wattage. <S> The most reliable way to look at brightness is the "lumens" rating. <S> If you're trying to match the brightness of an existing bulb, try to look it up online to find the lumens. <A> Lumens is the absolute amount of light that a bulb puts out. <S> You can use this to accurately <S> compare how bright two bulbs will be. <S> The one with the higher lumens value is the brighter light. <S> However, most people have no idea how bright a 170 lumen or a 950 lumen bulb is. <S> What they do have is experience of how bright a 40W or 85W incandescent light is. <S> By using the "equivalent watts" value bulb manufacturers are making it easy for the typical shopper to have the information they require in order to make an informed decision over which bulb to buy. <S> However, as Henry Jackson points out this is usually a figure calculated (or even made up) by the manufacturer and should always be treated with some caution. <S> I would assume that each manufacturer has measured the light output from a "standard" incandescent bulb (or a number of bulbs) and used that lumen value to calculate the "equivalent watts" of their bulbs. <S> Once incandescent bulbs have been completed phased out and/or more different bulb types are on the market you might see a switch to using the lumens value exclusively as this becomes more widespread and accepted. <A> As was noted , the luminiocity of the reference (incandescent) lamp is not linearly proprtional to its power. <S> The more powerful incandescent lamp is, the higher is its luminous efficacy (lumen/watt) : incandescent lamp 100 <S> W 13.8 lm/W 2.0 %incandescent lamp 200 W 15.2 lm <S> /W <S> 2.2 % halogen lamp 100 W 16.7 lm <S> /W 2.4 % halogen lamp 200 W 17.6 lm <S> /W <S> 2.6 % halogen lamp 500 W <S> 19.8 lm/ <S> W <S> 2.9 % <S> So, when we rise power two times, luminosity increases 6 times. <S> This is my speculation. <S> But it cannot be a good answer because, as we see for powers > 100 W, 2x power increase adds only 1% to the efficiency, not 300% as needed for 6x.
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Luminous efficiency : the amount of light put out by the bulb per watt.
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How to shape the zone a radar motion sensor detects? The light in my bathroom is controlled by a radar motion sensor. The idea was that radar based sensors can be hidden inside the lamp itself and thus be invisible (so no sensor, no switch, only the lamp is visible). Unfortunately, since it's a small bathroom and some of its walls are made of plaster, the radar sensor detects movement in the corridor as well, turning the light on every time somebody walks by. Could the radar motion sensor's detection zone be shaped somehow? As the sensor is located on the ceiling, narrowing the detection cone would do the trick. Unfortunately, the device itself only offers control over the light duration, maximum darkness level when it still activates and the sensor's sensitivity (setting this to a low value helps a bit, but is inconvenient because you have to do an elaborate hand dance to turn the light back on again on longer toilet sessions... and it still sometimes detects people in the corridor). I tried making a cone out of aluminum kitchen foil, but it didn't seem to work at all. Any other ideas? <Q> I know that that's an old thread <S> but you can use the anti-static bag used in electronic: works like a charm for me. <S> Regards <A> It's a bit difficult. <S> In theory you could potentially change the antenna and change the radiation pattern but you would have to be an engineer to know what you're changing and <S> how. <S> Some like this from RS actually have some adjustment for orientation and sensitivity: <S> http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/12ad/0900766b812ad06a.pdf <S> Then one like this has no adjustments, however seems to have coverage in almost all one direction. <S> http://docs-asia.electrocomponents.com/webdocs/12ad/0900766b812ad053.pdf <S> So depending on floorplan may be able to have coverage say towards outside or similar that may work ? <S> http://cableplan.ie/downloads/pdfs/microwave_presence_detector.pdf Is another adjustable one. <S> The issue is that microwave can penetrate and <S> if you look at the specs of a lot of these they can and do cover a large area. <A> I think your strategy of making a cone out of aluminum foil was on the right track, but your choice of material was not. <S> Think about what happens when you put various materials in the microwave. <S> Paper, glass, ceramic: <S> no effect, these will be ineffective. <S> Aluminum foil: unintended consequences, do not use. <S> Then consider what the microwave itself is made out of. <S> You are essentially making the window (which is a person window, the negative image of a sensor window) <S> This suggests the use of a grounded metal mesh or foam. <S> You should also be able to find self-adhesive EMI/RF shielding foam at various industrial suppliers such as McMaster-Carr. <S> You will want to wire either material to ground. <S> I would start by trying to disable the sensor completely by this method (of covering it with grounded metal mesh or foam.) <S> Then open a small aperture in the opposite direction of the corridor. <S> Increase the size of the aperture until the functionality is as you desire. <S> Use white self-adhesive paper label stock cut slightly larger than your masking material to return the sensor to an all white appearance if that is important. <A> It's a bathroom, so you probably have mirrors, and they reflect microwaves just as well as they do visible light, adding to the problem. <S> You may be better off replacing the radar detector with a PIR-based occupancy sensor, either a separate switch or part of the light fixture. <S> If you don't want to change the wiring, there are adapter kits available, and I've also started to see PIRs built into the light bulbs themselves. <A> I use the inexpensive microwave occupancy sensor https://www.amazon.com/Solu-Microwave-10-525GHz-microwave-Detectors/dp/B00ZWPKO5E/ <S> There are similar, but costlier offerings. <S> This has only 180 degree detection angle. <S> I mounted it on a partition wall made of ply wood, and it does not respond to people moving on the other side of the wall.
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It is a bit of an issue, some PIRs can change orientation and/or have ways to mask part of mirror or lens to change the coverage pattern in addition to sensitivity. There may be a way of applying something to the walls whether conductive paint, a mesh, metal sheeting or so on. The problem is that even if your foil cone changed the radiation pattern of the microwave antenna in the sensor so that it no longer transmits energy in the direction of the wall, some of the other microwave energy in the room is going to be reflected by the surfaces that it hits (and some absorbed or passed through, those surfaces). Lot of effort though to work around a sensor. Locally in NYC, the SpyStore sells copper-nickel mesh fabric for unstated purpose.
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How to wire MR16 LED lights? I am building a wall cabinet with downlights in the shelves, for which I would like to use MR16 LEDs. However, my first attempt was obviously deficient, since two of the LEDs blew. I'd appreciate some help to figure out a) what went wrong, and b) what I need to install them properly. As you can hopefully see in the image above, I have a single transformer, which has the following specifications: Electronic Transformer for LV-Halogen LampsPRI: 220-240V ~50Hz 0.27ASEC: 11.5V~ 10-60W λ=0.99 I have four 12V, 4W MR16 LEDs wired in parallel to the transformer. When I connected them all up to the power, they seemed to burn fine, without any noticeable flicker; after about 30 min, one of the lights went out, and I thought it might have been my wiring. After another 10 min or so, another light blew with an audible pop. At that point I realised there was something wrong with my setup and switched it off. When all four LEDs were burning, and when only three were working, I took some voltage readings, which were around 4.5-4.6V (nowhere near the expected 12V). I have considered 4 possible issues here: 1) The LEDs are expecting DC input, and are getting fried by the AC current. When I bought the transformer (from the same store that sold me the LEDs), I specifically asked if I needed a DC transformer, and the assistant replied that they didn't have any other kind of transformer, and that this was what they used in their in-store demonstration arrays. The LED packaging makes no mention of whether they need AC or DC current. 2) The LEDs are wired in parallel, when they need to be wired in series to give the necessary resistance for the transformer to work. 3) The LEDs are too far from the transformer, resulting in voltage drop (the maximum distance is about 1.5-2m). 4) The transformer is faulty. I don't have the knowledge to diagnose which of these issues (or combination thereof) is at fault here, so any advice will be gratefully received. Edit: I am in South Africa, with 220V AC mains electrical supply. <Q> Electronic transformers designed for Halogen lamps will kill LEDs. <S> Electronic transformers are very simple switched mode power supplies. <S> They "chop" the input <S> 230 V/125 V sine wave in a way that will yield an average output voltage of 12 V. However, the peak voltage will be much higher and will eventually kill LEDs (that's no problem with Halogen lamps because they react more slowly). <S> In addition, the chopped waveform may cause radio interference if the cables to the lamps are too long. <S> The waveform may also be the reason why your voltage readings are off. <S> Instead of an electronic transformer designed for Halogen lamps, you should either use: a conventional AC transformer (the heavy kind); or an electronic DC transformer designed for LEDs. <A> We can determine by the specs you gave that the transformer is indeed AC Electronic Transformer for LV-Halogen LampsPRI: <S> 220-240V ~50Hz 0.27ASEC <S> : 11.5V~ 10-60W <S> λ=0.99 <S> The ~ sign indicates alternating current. <S> Also, the minimum load is indicated as 10W. <S> This is important when using LEDs <S> When all four LEDs were burning, and when only three were working, I took some voltage readings, which were around 4.5-4.6V <S> (nowhere near the expected 12V). <S> This is a common error even with pros. <S> A Electronic transformer chops up the load side freqeency between 20k-100k Hertz. <S> The common digital multi-meter is set to read between 50-60 Hertz. <S> This makes reading or testing electronic transformers practically impossible if relying on a multi-meter. <S> Instead, just take a basic working MR16 halogen and test it directly to the electronic transformer. <S> If it works the transformer should be okay. <S> 1) <S> The LEDs are expecting DC input, and are getting fried by the AC current. <S> When I bought the transformer (from the same store that sold me the LEDs), I specifically asked if I needed a DC transformer, and the assistant replied that they didn't have any other kind of transformer, and that this was what they used in their in-store demonstration arrays. <S> The LED packaging makes no mention of whether they need AC or DC current. <S> MR16 lamps whether LED or halogen will usually work on either AC or DC voltages. <S> 2) <S> The LEDs are wired in parallel, when they need to be wired in series to give the necessary resistance for the transformer to work. <S> All wiring in homes is done in parallel, never series. <S> 3) <S> The LEDs are too far from the transformer, resulting in voltage drop (the maximum distance is about 1.5-2m). <S> While this could possibly be a factor for runs over 4m and incorrect wire sizes, <S> 2m should not. <S> 4) <S> The transformer is faulty. <S> This seems to me to be the actual problem. <S> Using a magnetic transformer will have several benefits to electronic. <S> 1. <S> Will solve the minimum load requirements (when using LEDs). <S> 2. <S> Be more reliable for longer runs. <S> 3. <S> Can be tested with a common multi-meter. <A> Its the transformer for halogens that did the LEDs in. <S> The wiring had nothing to do with the problem you mentioned. <S> Its best to use a driver designed for LEDs to power them. <S> If you can share the specs on the LED lamps and weather there is a circuit in the lamp and how are the LEDs connected (in series back to back or in parallel) <S> I can help you with the specs for the optimum driver. <S> Noor.
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Even though the bulbs used did meet the transformers minimum load requirements, I suspect the transformer was faulty.
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How can I wire an exhaust fan to turn on from multiple locations? I just bought a Panasonic FV-20NLF1 inline bath exhaust fan that I planned to used to exhaust 2 different bathrooms. I want each bathroom light switch to control the fan, so when the lighting turns on in either bathroom, the fan will go on. If both light switches are off, the fan will go off. If one light is on the fan will stay on. Could someone share how I could accomplish this, ideally in a diagram? <Q> I don't think it's possible to individually control two different lights while controlling a common fan using conventional house wiring devices. <S> Powering the fan will backfeed power to the other light that was supposed to stay off. <S> But I look forward to being proven wrong. <S> It can be done if both lights and the fan all go on at the same time. <S> Alternately, wire two standard switches in parallel so one bath user would not accidentally turn off the light for the other. <S> This can be confusing as one switch may not always turn off the lights. <S> While such a switch is common in electronics, I don't know if such a device is available for house wiring. <S> Alternately, a double pole relay could be used to switch the fan. <S> Either pole powers the fan, but the separate coils keep each circuit isolated from the other. <S> Sorry <S> I'm not illustrating this, I need to take some time to learn how to add drawings here <S> , I know it's fairly easy. <S> In the mean time, if anyone gets what I'm saying, feel free to add some illustrations. <A> You have one option that you could consider. <S> Leave the existing single pole switches to control the lights in each of the two areas but remove fan wiring from these two switches. <S> Then add a 3-way wiring setup and two switches, one at each location, to control the fan interdependent of the lights. <S> This of course would wire the fans up using conventional 3-way switches and the two wiring travellers running between the switch locations. <S> Standard 3-way switches, electrical boxes and multi-conductor wiring is available at most hardware stores and home centers. <S> If installed correctly it will meet your local electrical code and regulations. <A> A second option that you have is to add a pair of relays driven one each from the two lighting circuits. <S> The relays would have coils sensitive to the AC line voltage applicable to your area. <S> Each coil would be wired in parallel (across) the light fixtures. <S> The output contacts of the two relays would be wired in parallel to the ventilation fan so that either light on would relay over to the fan so it would be on. <S> One difficulty with this approach is procuring the suitable components and then installing and packaging the solution in a safe and legal manner following all applicable electrical codes and regulations. <S> If you were to want to attempt to go with this relay approach I would suggest that you deploy some industrial style solid state relays that are designed to accept a wide range AC input and capable of driving the vent fan. <S> One possible component that could be used, as pictured below, can be mounted inside the bottom of a larger metal electrical box, two side by side, and then wired appropriately. <S> This style of component has isolated mounting holes to facilitate mounting to the electrical box and convenient screw terminals for wiring up to the lighting and fan circuits. <S> Here is the distributor that could supply the above pictured component. <A> I had this problem a while back - simple, use a two gang 2-way switch and wire the fan up as if it was a 2-way lighting circuit, one switch controls the fan, the other controls the light - no backfeed, fans operate when needed (client will have no automatic control however, unless you install a flush PIR in between switch and fan) <S> Dont forget your 3-pole isolator switch however! <A> There are two approaches to this problem: use dual pole switches to control the fan and each light simultaneously -- this is the best approach if the lights and fan all are on the same circuit from the panel use a dual relay to control the fan circuit from the light circuits -- this is the best approach if the fan and lights are on separate circuits, or if the lights in each bathroom are on different circuits from each other.
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To have only one light go on with a particular switch, you need a pair of single throw-double pole switches where one pole of each switch goes to it's associated light and the other pole of each switch both go to the fan. This is just a standard 3-way switch circuit. This approach as a distinct advantage of allowing the use of low cost readily available components with which to implement the solution.
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How can I avoid cold rooms due to combustion air intake? I have a newer split level house (2006) with unfinished basement. The natural gas furnace is on the lower level in a utility room that is also laundry and bathroom. There's an enormous 8 or 10" pipe that serves as combustion air intake just over the furnace, which goes outdoors through a screened hole. Now that it's become very cold outside (0°F/-17°C tonight) the intake seems to just be cooling off the entire lower level. The furnace is not in its own enclosed space; it's open to the unfinished laundry/bath room, and the door to the room has a gap of about 1" to the concrete floor. If I stand just in front of the furnace, which is the same location to do laundry (just the opposite direction), the cold draft is noticeable even when the furnace isn't running. Do I need to enclose the furnace in its own space to avoid this problem, or something else? I understand its purpose, but it seems to counter efficiency. <Q> Don't forget the combustion air is for all fuel burning appliances, not just the furnace. <S> Yes, it is counter efficient, but not providing combustion air risks carbon monoxide poisoning. <S> Not good! <S> One viable alternative would be to adequately heat the space, but that is certainly not efficient. <S> It appears you could easily enclose the water heater and furnace in a utility closet. <S> AFAIK, the mechanical code often applicable in the US still requires two combustion air openings, one high and one low. <S> You should verify your local requirements to ensure everything is correct. <S> This is not the area to cut corners. <S> Even with the closet containing the cold air, if you have a gas clothes dryer, it still needs adequate combustion air. <S> Again, check your local requirements to determine the minimum vent area required for a dryer. <S> You would want to insulate the closet walls, and maybe even consider using an exterior door for access, as it will provide better insulation and weatherstripping to limit infiltration. <S> OTOH, an undercut interior door might be adequate for dryer combustion air provision. <S> You have a little research to do. <A> I'm still exploring this issue of combustion air, but there is certainly an ancient way of making that cold winter air Far more reasonable to add to the structure. <S> In 1980, my family built a house in the Maine woods with what is now called an 'Earth Tube', that runs a fresh air source pipe underground for long enough to moderate the temperature away from the seasonal extreme. <S> We called it a 'cool tube' at the time, and it can bring fairly cool air in for summertime, and relatively warmed air in during winter.. <S> BUT, you have to be careful to manage moisture VERY responsibly, with the right surfacing and sloping so that you don't get condensation pools forming in Summer, which will become mold and legionnaire's disease dangers if untended. <S> It also must be well sealed pipe, so you don't introduce a Radon problem. <S> I've long felt it's worth remembering that anyone who freezes to death will thaw out pretty quick once they are placed in that magical 6 foot deep crib down there, and could cool right off after a deadly Heat Stroke, too, only a few feet from where they suffered. <S> That represents a LOT of stored energy that is right next to every one of our homes. <A> My solution was to put the cold air intake pipe in a 5 gallon bucket with a 2 to 3 inch space between the bottom of the pipe and the bottom of the bucket. <S> The cold air will fill the bucket but the ait pressure of the house will prevent the cold air from spilling all over the floor all the time. <S> When needed the cold air will be sucked out of the bucket and provide the required air flow for the combustion air exhaust. <S> Furnace experts have seen the setup and no one has ever question it. <S> No more cold air in the basement. <A> One option is a "heat recovery ventilator". <S> This is basically device that extracts heat out of air that is exhausting and transfers it to air that is entering. <S> You should also check to see if you can supply combustion air directly to the furnace; many furnaces let you duct an air supply in directly. <S> There are also water heaters that allows you to do this, though they tend to be more expensive than the normal ones.
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You would probably need some vents out of the closet to maintain this, but they can be relatively small, so the enclosure would still largely contain the cold air. The water heater and possibly your clothes dryer also need combustion air. Be sure to determine the needed clearances and working access for each appliance and ensure they are maintained. Those hazards aside, this can be a powerful resource to bring to bear.
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How can I secure a plastic toolbox to the wall? I have a plastic toolbox that I want to mount on the wall. I need it to be extremely stable once mounted, and I was therefore considering simply screwing it directly to the wall. However, I'm concerned that I might crack the plastic. What would the best way be to do something like this? The toolbox is made from a softish plastic, so that's why I was even considering drilling through it. <Q> If the tool box is not actually designed to be mounted to the wall then there is a strong possibility that doing so may deform the box so that it does not function in the way intended. <S> This could be especially true if the box has a hinged lid. <S> You could then secure the box to the shelf possibly by even gluing it in place. <S> Gluing the base of the box to the shelf would have far less chance of deforming the shape of the thing. <S> Using a shelf idea also allows easier adjustment of where to place the box so that a possible lid does not interfere with the wall. <A> If you do decide to attach with screws you should use what are called fender washers between the head of the screw and the plastic. <S> The fender washer has a larger diameter than a normal washer and is meant for situations where you need to spread the force of the screw over a larger area. <S> This will make it less likely that your screw will crack the plastic or pull through. <S> Additionally. <S> When tightening the screws slow down as you get close to full depth and gently bring the screw to full tightness against the washer and plastic. <S> This will minimize the chance that you will create cracks in the plastic with shock. <S> if your box is made from a brittle plastic it might not hold its own weight with out cracking. <S> In this case a small piece of wood that would span between two holes that you could screw through to hold it to the wall. <S> This would create a larger clamping surface and spread the forces over an even larger area than the washers. <S> If none of this makes sense it would help if you could describe the box a little bit or even supply a picture. <A> while i agree with the shelf solution, i would approach a little differently, use both the bolts into the wall and a simple L shaped flat iron bracket.. <S> So basically get two L shaped Brackets, and let the one side of each bracket support the bottom of the toolbox. <S> then put a hole in the top half of the other side and let this run along the wall. <S> the toolbox can then sit on the brackets and you can drill and put rawl bolts through the toolbox side, then through the hold of the bracket then in the wall... <S> I would also use the fender washer or a base plate on the toolbox side to ensure that you dont break the toolbox. . <S> The brackets (and essentially the holes in the toolbox) should be as close to the edges of the toolbox as possible for rigidity.. or alternatively... get a piece of wood to span from one end to the other inside the toolbox and then use that as your "fender washer"
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I think that your best bet would be to build a small shelf for under the tool box and secure that into the wall studs.
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What kind of drill bit would I use to grind down the end of a protruding screw? Let's say I have a 1"-thick piece of wood. A 1 1/4" screw is driven through the wood, resulting in 1/4" of the screw protruding out the other side. What type of drill bit would I use to grind that tip down just beneath the surface, leaving a dimple just the right depth to be filled in with wood putty? I do not want to extract the screw. I want to grind it. It would be a wood screw, not something as brittle as a drywall screw. Edit: I called Home Depot and they suggested that I use my oscilating tool to cut off the tip and then use a regular drill bit to grind it beneath the surface. This makes sense. Should I go that route? <Q> A protruding screw head is made of steel, so it will be moderately hard. <S> If the screw is brass, it would be easy to grind down. <S> You have several options. <S> With 1/4 inch remaining above the surface, I might first cut it down rather than grinding it all down. <S> Leave a little stub that can be dealt with easily. <S> This can be found in any hardware store, probably made of aluminum oxide, and possibly a 1/4 inch shank. <S> Smaller ones for a Dremel tool will have a 1/8 inch shank, but I'd get the larger one. <S> It will last longer, and fit in any electric drill, so no Dremel required. <S> You can use a high speed steel or carbide burr to do the grinding too. <S> But aluminum oxide is harder than steel, and far cheaper than carbide. <S> Use a bimetal blade in an oscillating multitool. <S> While I have found many uses for this tool, the blades are incredibly expensive and will wear out quickly when cutting steel. <S> (There are titanium coated bimetal blades that will last longer, but they are not at all cheap, and may not fit on every model multitool. <S> For example, no titanium blades are available for my Porter Cable tool.) <S> So I would definitely shorten the stub using a hacksaw blade first. <S> A belt sander will also do the job here, again be careful as it might tear the belt. <A> Back the screw out. <S> Cut off the tip with 4 1/2" grinder. <S> Screw it back in. <S> Fill the hole! <A> I've always used a 4.5" side grinder. <S> Very carefully. <A> A regular high speed steel bit will cut softish common wood screws. <S> Depending on how big the shank diameter is at the cut will determine how hard it will be to center punch and drill out without the bit slipping off the metal and gouging a good hole in the neighboring wood. <S> I suppose there's now no way to back the screw out and cut it to length, or substitute a shorter screw? <A> I second the use of a dremel with a round grinding bit on the end. <S> A drill bit will just slip off the pointed end of the screw. <A> How many do you need to do? <S> If it's not that many, just get a sanding block with some heavy duty sanding paper (the kind with the material backing) and just run a few passes over the screw head. <S> I would take a bet that this is easier than any Dremel. :) <A> Remove your fastener. <S> Cut 3/8" off with a hacksaw. <S> Screw it back in! <S> Simple! <S> You can't "grind" with a drill bit. <S> To "grind" involves an abrasive wheel or stone. <S> You also don't "cut" with a drill bit. <S> You only "drill" with it.
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A grindstone bit, for use in an electric drill. A piece of hacksaw blade will suffice, held in my hand flat against the surface to avoid damaging the wood. Sandpaper on a sanding block, as suggested by one answer is an option, but sanding down a 1/4 inch steel stub will take some time and probably tear the paper into shreds (as well as the sanding block.)
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Can I ground my workbench using an unused outlet's neutral? I haven't found any advice on my specific predicament, so I'll ask here. First, some background. I just moved into a house with old electrical wiring (read: ungrounded outlets). Unfortunately, the area where I'll be working with static-sensitive devices (microcontrollers and similar devices) is in a carpeted area and the humidity here is very low. In other words, I will likely want to start using a wrist strap and anti-static mat for my work. However, I don't have anything to ground to. While I know connecting ground to neutral in an actively used outlet is a silly idea, I'm wondering if it would be alright to use the neutral connection of an unused outlet to ground my mat and wristband. Since the outlet is unused the neutral wire should never be energized and always grounded. If this is not a reasonable idea, does anyone have any better suggestions? (Rewiring is not an option for me as it's not my house.) If it is a reasonable idea, I'm curious if it would also be safe to ground an active outlet with the neutral wire of an unused outlet. Not that I plan on doing that, I'm just curious if that makes sense (it seems like it would theoretically be fine given my understanding of how individual outlets are wired). <Q> If you ever ended up with a break in the neutral between the outlet and the panel, you would have electrified your workbench and wrist band. <A> There are different forms of grounds. <S> Earth ground is obvious and what you'd wish for and what you should tie your anti-static system to if you want absolute ground potential on it. <S> A ground plane can establish an equal potential for everything that's attached to it. <S> While it's floating above or below absolute ground potential, it establishes a neutral differential level to all that touches it. <S> It's how you work with computers that aren't plugged into the mains power. <S> You clip your wrist strap to the metal casing which neutralizes any charge you may have in relation to the electronics and then set the packaging for the item you're working with on the metal case so it discharges to neutral potential. <S> Once you've created that situation, you're not going to have any static differential that will zap anything. <S> Expand that a little and cover the desktop with an antistatic mat. <A> This is a bad idea! <S> Don't do it! <S> If I were you I would just run a green ground wire along baseboards all the way to whatever good ground you can find. <S> That said, for the sake of theory and imagination, I think one could also do the following hack: <S> Find the circuit breaker that corresponds to the outlet you want to repurpose as a ground <S> Disconnect the hot from the breaker <S> so it is impossible to use anything on the entire circuit. <S> Maybe just remove the entire breaker. <S> Disconnect the neutral from its bus bar too <S> Connect both the hot and neutral wires to a bare-wire pigtail with a wire nut Connect the pigtail to the ground bus <S> However, this is still unsafe because it violates the principle of least astonishment . <S> Modern electrical systems are safe in part because they all follow the same conventions. <S> Violating these conventions will mislead them, and that's unsafe.
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As far as I can see, this would be safe because you will have completely disabled the entire circuit by repurposing both wires to be grounds. Do not do this. Now you have to go around to all other receptacles on that circuit and remove them or at least label them as non-functioning. Jumper the computer case to the mat and your surface work area of equal potential is now as large as the mat is. Any electrician can come into a home, look at part of the wiring, and make reasonable assumptions about how it is wired based on the colors of the wires (for example).
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What can we do about previously filled holes so I can varnish wood? We have bought a house that has nice wooden doors, but holes in them have been filled ready for painting. We would prefer to varnish the wood - what can we do about the white filling in the holes? <Q> Test it first. <S> You may be able to just stain the filler as is. <S> If that does not work, dig out the existing filler with whatever tool works (putty knife, old drill bit, a thick nail) and replace it with something you can stain. <S> Not sure if paint stripper works on filler, but it's work a short. <S> If there's any other stains or treatments on the door though, you need to remove those with chemicals like The Evil Greebo, and sand it down nice and fine. <A> Assuming they used a proper, stainable wood filler, your best result will occur if you strip the wood to remove any existing finish, and then re-stain the wood including the filler, so that you get a consistent look to the wood. <S> The downside is, stripping wood involves the use of pretty harsh chemicals, and a lot of manual labor scraping and then scrubbing with steel wool. <S> But the end result will not be better using any less intensive method. <A> Consider faux finishing the spots. <S> This is an answer if the filler will not take stain. <S> Paint the spots carefully with a good primer. <S> Using small brushes and different shades of glaze (a semi-transparent paint) lay down layers to complete the grain that is missing. <S> If you look at the grain you can see it as layers of different shades. <S> Probably two or three would do it. <S> Light, medium, dark, allowing each to dry before applying the next. <S> This is not as difficult as one might think. <S> The thing about decorative painting is that no one will ever look closely or even expect it to be perfect. <S> The goal is to get the eye to go over it without stopping. <S> It doesn't need to be great. <S> Some judicious smudging can go a long way to help it look natural. <S> Have fun.
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You can find many good sources for simple approaches to creating a painted finish for those spots that would mimic the wood.
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How can I prevent spillage from my bathtub? Let's set the scene: The horizontal surfaces of the bathtub in my apartment are flat. We have a double shower curtain (with the waterproof bit that hangs on the inside of the tub and the fabric bit that hangs on the outside of the tub) and are careful not to splash too much, but the flat top bits of the tub still get water on them when you reach for stuff. The floor in the bathroom is very slightly slanted, so the open side of the bathtub is slightly lower than the wall side of the bathtub. This means that any water that gets dripped onto the short end of the tub (the side with the showerhead) drips down to the floor, and then slowly flows across the bathroom floor to the opposite wall. Not ideal. We rent this apartment, so replacing or making major upgrades to the tub is not really an option. (We will have trouble convincing the management company that a few drops of water on the floor merit remodeling the bathroom, since there's no actual leak involved here.) I need a way to catch the water that wants to drip off the edge of the bathtub and redirect it back down into the tub. (My current plan is to use some foam tubing and rubber sheeting to create a sort of ramp... thing... around the corner of the tub, but I bet this community can generate some ideas that will both look and work much better.) Additional info : Turns out I'm sort of a natural at drawing bathtubs. A diagram, in case you're confused by my description: <Q> You can buy bathtub splash guards such as the ones found here . <S> You should be able to find similar ones at your local hardware store. <S> Most versions install in seconds, using easy peel and stick adhesive backings. <S> No tools, no mess, and usually no waiting for caulks and/or glues to dry. <A> I had this problem in my last house, but rather than Jaydles' fancy putty , I just grabbed a cheap tube of silicone caulk and ran a bead around the outside of the tub wall. <S> A couple seconds to squeegee it off after the shower, and things stayed nice and dry. <S> If you're not great at drawing straight lines, use good-quality masking tape to get those perfect edges on it. <A> Have you considered Sugru ? <S> In the words of its maker: It moulds like play-dough, bonds to almost anything and turns into a strong, flexible silicone rubber overnight. <S> Another way to think about it is that it feels like clay, then turns into stuff a lot like the outside of an iphone charging cord. <S> I think you could pretty easily use it to make something like a very thin ramp on the tub edge that guides water back into the tub (rather than splitting between in and out due to the currently flat surface). <S> One challenge is that it's designed for smaller patches, and is expensive when you start using a lot of it. <S> If you only need it in the corners where the curtain isn't, you're probably fine, but doing the whole length could get costly, depending on how much "ramp" you need. <S> It's also not super easy to remove when you move out, but you can cut off the bulk of it with a sharp knife, and then scratch of the remaining bits with your fingernail. <A> It will also stop splash water that seems to get around the curtain end. <S> It looks more purposeful than some stuff gooped near the edge. <S> It can be removed as much as any silicone can be removed. <S> Something like this should work... <S> You can cut plexiglass much as you'd cut thin plywood, and the edges can be sanded to be smooth and slightly rounded. <S> Similar products might be found already manufactured, ready to be glued in place. <S> You'll still want to mop up any standing water or water mineral deposits will develop. <S> Nice perspective drawing of your situation btw! <A> I have same puddle problem on bath edge after I had my bath and tiles resurfaced. <S> Plumber said this is because the new surface is too rough and solution is to buy a spray to repell the water. <S> I can't remember the name of the product but BigW sells water repellants. <S> I've done some research and someone stated the water turns into round droplets and just slid off the bath edge and keeps everything cleaner for longer as well. <A> Here is what I did in a similar situation. <S> purchase <S> a 150 mm white acrylic curved corner shelf with its fittings from e-bay at £7. <S> fit this in a upright position, 20mm in from the corner of the bath seal it with white silicone on the inside.
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If the water problem is primarily just right at the one end, you could cut a shallow triangular piece of plexiglass, with a nice stylish curve if you like, and glue it into the corner with silicone sealant.
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How do you properly clean hardwood floors? I've been cleaning my hardwood floors with all sorts of cleaners for the past 2 years and this has created a thin whitish film covering the floor that I can't wash away. I've tried scrubbing with a dry cloth as well as with plain water, but it won't go away. I've read that lots of people have used white vinegar, but I am a little suspicious about it. I would like to know how can I get rid of this film as well as how can I prevent it from happening in the future. What is the proper way to clean the floors to preserve the shine they came with? I've also read about Murphy's Oil Soap. Should I try this as well? <Q> If you use cleaners like Mop & Glo or Orange Glo on your floors than <S> yes you will get a cloudy white film build up. <S> The reason being is that these products have oils in them, that when used over and over again will build up and take away the shine. <S> Answer <S> Yes it can be too much of a build-up or simply the type of product <S> you are using. <S> Go a hardwood dealership and ask them what you can do about this as there are special products for cleaning hardwood floors. <S> Source <A> Don't use Murphy's oil soap or anything else that can build up. <S> If, at some point in the future, you wish to refinish the floor, if it is in good shape you can have it "screened" (lightly sanded with a sanded screen) and then simply refinished. <S> If you have used a cleaner that builds up, screening is not an option; the floor will have to be sanded before it is refinished. <A> I've ended up scrubbing the whitish film built up with water and vinegar and a rag. <S> Then, to prevent future built up I've only used Bona's cleaner, which does a great job.
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If you use a pure cleaner (I like Bona's), it will leave the floor clean.
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How do I fix a slow toilet flush? If I press the toilet handle or pour a bucket of water down the toilet, the water flows down slowly. What can I do to find out the cause of the issue along with steps to fix it. I've tried cleaning that little hole at the bottom of the bowl, still no success. Solids don't seem to flow down. It fixed itself After a day of not using the toilet, I flushed it. The water rose to the top then slowly goes down halfway in the bowl when suddenly, all of it got sucked out of the toilet. It is now flushing properly after a couple of tries. I live on the 17th floor of an apartment building. Does anyone know what could have caused it to fix itself? <Q> From a similar question's answer If the toilet still drains slowly, then you have a blockage that may not be solved with a new toilet. <S> It could be an improperly installed wax seal, perhaps the drain line isn't properly sized, or there's something that can be snaked out. <A> You have not given sufficient information with your description; even with a toilet in perfect considition, it will flush "slowly" or inadequately, if you pour water slowly into the bowl, from a bucket. <S> Throw the water from your bucket into the toilet with great vigor. <S> The toilet should flush instantly, with very little water left in the bowl. <S> If, with the vigorous bucket throw, you still see impeded flush, than you have an obstruction in the throat of the toilet. <S> This requires removal of the toilet, and inverting it. <S> It's a nasty job. <S> There are other reasons for inadequate flushing, but your use-of-bucket description eliminated them. <S> They involve failures in the tank-to-bowl circuit. <A> There are five things that will cause a slow-flush toilet, and you need to check all of them as possible causes. <S> partly filled tank <S> clogged drain trap <S> clogged rim jets <S> clogged siphon jet, and blocked air vent. <S> You can see more about each of these here .
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It's also possible you could have a venting issue, but I'd expect bubbles, gurgling, or bad smells with your other plumbing if that were the case.
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Could my wall have been damaged while the painters were painting? I recently had my bathroom renovated. Before the renovation I had noticed some minor cracks in the ceiling. The building is 1962 and the walls are plaster. I had semi gloss paint used which I know can highlight imperfections a bit more. However I did notice an area which I had never noticed before and I have included it in the photo. My questions: Is it possible that I didn't notice it because of the change from eggshell to semi-gloss? Is it more likely that something went awry while painting and this caused the problem (improper priming or something like that). Maybe a better question- how to fix it? <Q> The damaged area could have been the place the shower head pipe may have originally projected out of the wall. <S> When the rain type show head was installed it may have been moved to a lower level. <S> If this is the case then the damage that you see is just a shoddy hole repair. <S> Fixing it up so that it looks decent will involve scraping, sanding and repainting the area as a minimum. <S> Worst case it may mean removing the old patch and filling in with a replacement patch that was done correctly. <S> Patch technique will depend somewhat on the type of wall it is. <S> You mentioned plaster - is it on lathe or plaster backer board of some type? <A> It could be an ugly looking patch over a hole for an old shower head (or someone messed up when installing the current one and made a hole where they did not want to). <S> Another idea, especially if you want to blame the painters: if someone or something scrapped along that area of the wall after a coat of latex paint had started drying but was still wet it might bunch up. <S> I am imagining the paint getting a film on the top layer but it has not fully adheared to the wall yet. <S> Then if someone/something scraps along it the top layer gets all bunched together. <S> It is hard to see from the picture exactly how high the ridges are. <S> If it were semi-dried paint I would imagine it would not protrude from the wall a lot. <A> When talking about shower curtain rods there are really two types, compression and mounted. <S> Mounted rods are superior in strength and cause less damage to the wall, but take a bit longer to install. <S> Compression rods apply horizontal force to hold the rod against the wall. <S> They can also pretty easily be installed too tight to where it cracks or damages the surrounding plaster or drywall. <S> If it is mounted properly and sombody were to pull down on it before relieving the tension then that is another way that these types of rods can damage your wall. <S> I have seen similar damage around the edges of shower surrounds before caused by compression shower curtain rods. <S> EDIT: <S> That makes sense now that I look at it that it is a shower head pipe <S> , there isn't enough room on the side to justify a shower curtain rod. <S> Apparently there must have been a shower head above that new shower head at some point in time. <S> What you are seeing is either an incredibly amateur or incredibly lazy attempt at repairing the hole in the plaster wall where the previous shower head existed.
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It is hard to say but my initial guess is that since I see what looks like a shower curtain rod right below this damaged area, that I would think it might be plaster damage from a previous shower curtain rod mounting. They are not as strong and can fall rather easily.
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How can I remove a receptacle and abandon the electrical outlet? We are trying to remove an electrical outlet. We turned the power off and disconnected the wires from the outlet. Then we twisted the + wires and tapped them and did the same with the - wires. Then we covered up the hole. When we turned the power back on the other outlets on the circuit they failed to work. Did we do something wrong? <Q> It sounds you caused a short circuit by wiring the hot and neutral together. <S> Cap each wire that you removed separately unless they were already joined together. <S> Once the outlet is removed and everything is safely capped and covered, remember that the cover plate must remain exposed and you cannot patch over the box. <S> If you are unsure of how to rectify this, you are best to call an electrician. <A> You simply need to convert the outlet into a junction box : <S> Flip the circuit breaker off Unscrew the hots, neutrals, and ground from the outlet and remove the outlet <S> Splice <S> the hot, neutral, and ground from both sides (charge and load) and put wire nuts on Cover the box with a junction box <S> lid <S> Flip the circuit back on <S> That way the receptacle continues transmitting the current without actually acting as a power outlet <A> Amphibient's solution is perfect. <S> However a couple of pointers. <S> It is both illegal and unsafe to permanently cover up a junction box by, for instance, sheet rocking over it. <S> This can cause endless problems if a wiring problem requires troubleshooting and if something should go wrong you might end up with a fire. <S> Also the code requires a receptacle every 12 feet and within 6' of a door in a residence (not in commercial offices). <S> This is to discourage the use of extension cords and has been a code requirement for decades. <S> Although not illegal the same applies if you put a heavy piece of furniture such as a loaded book case in front of it. <S> Make sure the wirenuts are very tight to avoid future problems and do not clip the wires short. <A> Use a junction box but make it flush with the outside wall and use a blank 4 inch cover plate in that area so it can be located . <S> No big deal.
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You created a circuit with no electrical resistance so the breaker pops to prevent you from melting the wires and burning down your house.
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Are there any ductless mini split systems that offer standard HVAC wiring controls? Have been looking for in the US a ductless mini split heat pump system something like the Mitsubishi Electric Mr. Slim that uses a non proprietary wiring scheme for its wall mounted thermostats. Ideally it would be the standard 24VAC wiring scheme something like (R,G,W,Y,C) that would allow the system to be controlled by a internet connected thermostat such as the Nest , EcoBee , etc... Most of the ductless mini split systems I have observed come with either fairly complex non internet connected programmable wall thermostat or come with a dumb to complex remote control to mange its operation. Does anyone know of any ductless systems that offer standardized HVAC controls, remote internet management or other smart home automation capabilities? <Q> After much searching the only standard 24VAC controllable units found were a handful of EMI's fixed capacity commercial mini split units. <S> R-410A - WLCG/WLHG Wall Air Handler , <S> Model: R-410A - WLCG/WLHG. <S> The working proof for wiring a standard 24VAC wall thermostat starts on page 11 in the Installation & Operation Manual . <S> Additionally they provide two other form factors both offering standard 24VAC control options. <S> R-410A - CACG/CAHG & CACH <S> /CAHH Cassette Air Handlers , Model: R-410A CACG/CAHG & CACH <S> /CAHH <S> R-410A - UNCG/UNHG Universal Ceiling/Floor Mount Air Handlers , Model: R-410A - UNCG/UNHG <S> Again pay attention to the model of EMI unit, some don't support 24VAC controls such as their entire E-verter series. <S> Additionally not sure what kind of prices these units carry, as well as what sacrifices in efficiency are lost due to non smart inverter control, still should be better than central forced air systems, right? <A> There is an adapter that allows the Nest Thermostat, (or any other 24v thermostat), to control most brands of Mini Split A/C's and Heat Pumps. <S> It is cheap and easy to install. <S> It is made by "JP Manufacturing" and they can be found at NestMiniSplitAdapters.com . <S> I have also seen them on Ebay lately. <S> We retrofitted 26 mini splits at a hotel in Palm Springs, half Samsung half Mitsubishi, half inverter half non inverter. <S> They all ran without a problem. <A> If you go with the Mitsubishi line of ductless minisplits you can add the MHK1 wireless remote receiver kit that provides a wall-mounted thermostat that can be located anywhere within the wireless range and also connect via RedLINK to the Honeywell Redlink Internet Gateway (THM6000R1002) which provides control and monitoring via the free totalconnectcomfort site as well iPhone/iPad and Android apps.
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Found some Mini Split units that can use standard 24VAC thermostat controls and it is made by EMI - Enviromaster International LLC - USA .
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What is a good solution for hiding insulation in an unfinished basement? First off, let me note that I am a tenant in this house. My landlord lets me do small improvements, but I'm not going to finish the basement with drywall myself. Basically, we have an unfinished basement space in the house that is used for storage, laundry, and minor workshop duties. There are also some drainage pipes that are in the center of the room. The ceiling and wall areas are filled with pink fiberglass insulation, but they are open and exposed. I'd like to make the space a little more inviting and perhaps a little safer to breathe in for extended workshop sessions, by covering up the insulation with something inexpensive and quick to install (and that won't require a construction permit). Is perhaps stapling Tyvek sheeting to the studs a solution that would work here? Any other/better ideas? <Q> I have seen it covered with fiberglash screen mesh. <S> It will let it breath, but still keep it off of you if you accidentally brush up against it. <S> A whole basement covered in it would not be that inexpensive though. <S> Maybe some 1/4 inch paneling. <A> Pick up some cheap material at some closeout outlet. <S> If you get bored with the pattern or color, just change it. <A> I would avoid using tyvek or any other similar vapor barrier in a basement. <S> If you must cover it, I'd simply go with sheetrock. <S> It's not that expensive. <S> Pegboard might be a more useful thing to cover it with, but will be much more expensive.
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If you don't want to invest in sheetrock or paneling, perhaps you could stretch some attractive fabric over the studs and staple it. In terms of breathing, the insulation shouldn't post a problem if it's left undisturbed.
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Can I use low voltage lights with a motion sensor? I have installed and wired low voltage exterior lights. They required a transformer to bring the AC to 24 volts. I want them controlled by a motion sensor so before the transformer I installed a motion sensor. The lights work, but only with the switch. The motion sensor does not engage. Is it possible to have the motion sensor control the lights, and if so, how do I do it? <Q> You will have to install the motion sensor (if it is rated 110v) in the feed to the low voltage system. <S> that is, hot going to switch, then motion sensor, then low voltage transformer then low voltage lights. <S> that is, sensor powered by 110v, feeding transformer <A> The motion sensor needs to be hot 24x7. <S> Motion sensors actually calibrate for the environment, and if you constantly sever power to them, they constantly are reset and have to start calibrating all over again. <S> The sensor won't tell you this, the only symptom will be poor performance, which you will misattribute to a lousy or defective sensor. <S> If you also need a switch, put it downline of the motion sensor. <S> So that the motion sensor always gets always-hot and neutral. <S> Switch it to DC. <S> Low voltage DC motion sensors are cheaper. <S> About half the inherent cost in an AC motion sensor is the parts to make low voltage out of mains power, and to switch mains power safely. <S> Therefore low voltage DC motion sensors are much cheaper. <S> AC low voltage lights don't care if they're DC. <S> But low voltage DC motion sensors do. <S> So do LEDs <S> and it's time to switch to those, now that choices are available that give good quality light. <A> It is surely possible, just wire the motion sensor in series with the power switch. <S> The sensor should have three wires. <S> on hot, one neutral and one to the lamps. <A> I put in a system that uses all 120v flood lights due to the amp load. <S> Once I hooked all those up to power, I used a 24v relay and when a motion detector trips, all the lights come on at once, leaving a prowler nowhere to hide. <S> With this system, all you have to do to expand the system is add motion detectors where you want them, pull low voltage wire to them, and hook it into the relay activation circuit.
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Sure you can, mostly just like everyone has been telling you.
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How can I tell what dimmer switch to use with LED lights? I replaced the halogen GU10 bulbs in my kitchen with LED bulbs... I'm really pleased with the results but as the bulbs I bought are dimmable, how do I know what dimmer switch I can use? I did try them with a dimmer switch but they were flickering very noticeably so it must have been the wrong type of dimmer switch <Q> You will need to check the product packaging or manufacture website to see what types it is listed for. <S> All of the Leviton and Lutron products I see at Home Depot lately have clear markings on the packaging. <S> Lutron marks them as C-L and Leviton calls them "Universal Dimmers". <S> If your lights are 12V then you need a magnetic dimmers for low voltage lighting. <A> There are TRiAC dimmers, ELV Dimmers, and UNIVERSAL Dimmers. <S> each use a similar but different technology to Dim an LED bulb. <S> each will get different results depending on the Load you have on the switch, and the type of bulb you are using. <S> i have tried many different bulbs each labeled DIMMABLE with a Lutron MACL-153 ELV digital dimmer.... <S> each bulb the same wattage, and each dimmed differently. <S> i would recommend the Lutron CTCL-153 as it is mechanical and has a much more precise range for dimming with a low LED wattage of 20watts load or less. <A> The vast majority of wall dimmers work well near their rated load and down to about 20 or 30% of it. <S> Below that, they tend to "cut off". <S> Increasing the load to be closer to rated capacity improves the low end range. <S> However, LEDs are so amazingly efficient, they are nowhere near the dimmer's capacity. <S> You have three basic choices <S> : Add some load along with the LEDs, like maybe a 60 watt incandescent, or a lot more LEDs. <S> That will get the dimmer load closer to its design parameters. <S> Alas, it also defeats the whole point of energy efficient lighting. <S> Upgrade the dimmer to a more suitable technology. <S> There are dimmers specifically made for LED control, like Lutron's C-L line but they may be hard to find. <S> Here is one at Home Depot. <S> Replace the dimmer with a lower wattage capacity in the same technology. <S> This gets the dimmer closer to it designed range. <S> But a cheap one less than 600 watts is hard to find and I bet all your LEDs total less than 50 watts. <S> Reference: <S> [1] <A> So what I needed was a "Trailing Edge" dimmer switch which I struggled to find in the shops but managed to order online. <S> It was quite a lot more expensive but works perfectly.
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After a little research I discovered that most dimmer switches are "Leading Edge" dimmer switches and that these aren't compatible with LED bulbs and will result in a flicker and reduce the lifetime of the bulbs.
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Are generator interlock kits permitted in residential applications? There have been some questions on the site lately, that reference using interlock kits with portable generators. This has inspired me to read through article 702 Optional Standby Systems of the NEC (which is short so it wasn't much effort), where I found the following items that seem relevant. NEC 2008 702.5 Capacity and Rating. (B) System Capacity. (1) Manual Transfer Equipment. Where manual transfer equipment is used, an optional standby system shall have adequate capacity andrating for the supply of all equipment intended to be operated at onetime. The user of the optional standby system shall be permitted toselect the load connected to the system. So in the case of an interlock, would the generator have to be rated to supply the whole house, or only the items the user wants to run (which could change at any time)? 702.6 Transfer Equipment. Transfer equipment shall be suitable for the intended use and designed and installed so as to prevent theinadvertent interconnection of normal and alternate sources of supplyin any operation of the transfer equipment. A properly installed interlock seems to meet this requirement, so there's nothing here to prevent one. However, there is an exception to this section which may disallow the use of interlocks in residential systems. Exception: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted where conditions of maintenanceand supervision ensure that only qualified persons service theinstallation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by alockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supplyconductors. In my mind, this sentence " where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation ". Would mean an interlock cannot be installed in a residential panel, because there is no way to prevent the homeowner from servicing the installation. Are interlocks a cheap and easy solution for homeowners, or can they not be used in residential situations? Update I found this interesting response in this thread , on the Electrical Contractor Network Forum . Which appears to be from a representative from a company who makes these types of devices. Which basically says the device is NEC compliant because it's the user that is the transfer equipment, not the device. I also found this semi-related, not relevant to the question at hand, section in the NEC. 408.36 Overcurrent Protection. (D) Back-Fed Devices. Plug-in-type overcurrent protection devices or plug-in type main lug assemblies that are backfed and used toterminate field-installed ungrounded supply conductors shall besecured in place by an additional fastener that requires other than apull to release the device from the mounting means on the panel. Which means if you're backfeeding through a breaker, you'll need to strap the breaker in place somehow. <Q> It seems the decision is ultimately in the hands of the Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), as long as " equivalent objectives can be achieved " using the device. <S> National Electrical Code 2008 ARTICLE 100 Definitions <S> Approved. <S> Acceptable to the authority having jurisdiction. <S> Authority <S> Having Jurisdiction (AHJ). <S> An organization, office, or individual responsible for enforcing the requirements of a code or standard, or for approving equipment, materials, an installation, or a procedure. <S> ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations 110.2 Approval. <S> The conductors and equipment required or permitted by this Code shall be acceptable only if approved. <S> ARTICLE 90 Introduction <S> 90.4 Enforcement. <S> This Code is intended to be suitable for mandatory application by governmental bodies that exercise legal jurisdiction over electrical installations, including signaling and communications systems, and for use by insurance inspectors. <S> The authority having jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the responsibility for making interpretations of the rules, for deciding on the approval of equipment and materials, and for granting the special permission contemplated in a number of the rules. <S> By special permission, the authority having jurisdiction may waive specific requirements in this Code or permit alternative methods where it is assured that equivalent objectives can be achieved by establishing and maintaining effective safety. <S> This Code may require new products, constructions, or materials that may not yet be available at the time the Code is adopted. <S> In such event, the authority having jurisdiction may permit the use of the products, constructions, or materials that comply with the most recent previous edition of this Code adopted by the jurisdiction. <S> WARNING <S> While these devices may or may not be approved by the AHJ, they are not the best solution available. <S> They do not prevent the user from overloading the generator, since the load selection is made by the user dynamically during operation. <S> The better, safer solution, is to install manual or automatic transfer switches. <S> This allows you to pre-select the loads making it a more user friendly solution. <A> As a Master Electrician, interlock kits are a great option and if they have been tested by UL or other groups like CSA they are generally accepted by AHJs. <S> I would not buy a cheap, un-tested one <S> but you can purchase them from OEM's and get the test report with the kit. <A> Based on the quote: Temporary connection of a portable generator without transfer equipment shall be permitted where conditions of maintenance and supervision ensure that only qualified persons service the installation and where the normal supply is physically isolated by a lockable disconnecting means or by disconnection of the normal supply conductors. <S> No I would say that any home owner who isn't a licensed electrician may NOT install an interlock. <S> Joe Average Homeowner will not have the training necessary to keep that safety fact in mind. <S> In addition, as stated in the comments, Joe Average Homeowner can easily remove the panel cover, which would disable the interlock by removing it, allowing a scenario where the generator switch and main circuit can be engaged simultaneously.
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The only safe way to install a temporary interlock for a portable generator - say in the case of a power outage - is to disconnect the main power grid from the house (even if that just means shutting off the main).
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Do home radiators waste water? I received my second quarterly water bill and cannot believe it says I'm using 49,000 gallons of water each quarter. That's over 500 gals per day! So I started thinking about average water usage per appliance, shower etc and it still does not add up. The only thing I can think of, is maybe the water passed through the radiators is the culprit? I've tried searching online for an answer, but no dice. While I do know my home heating is based on hot water passing through radiators and baseboards, does this mean its an open system? Therefore, whenever the water passes by all the radiators then it leaves the house and into the sewer? Hope not, since this looks to be inefficient to me. I would assume home heating systems that use water are closed systems and not lose water. Maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree on what's consuming all that water, but at the moment, I need to understand how water circulation works in radiators. <Q> To answer your question, the radiators in your home are a closed loop. <S> If they are single-pipe steam radiators, then there is a small amount of vapor loss out of the little valve on the radiator. <S> (The one that may hiss a bit while warming up.) <S> If you have that type of system, the water level in your boiler must occasionally be topped up, but that would be a few gallons of water per month. <S> But if your heating system was installed in the last few decades, it's more likely you have the much more common forced hot water, which is an entirely closed loop. <S> My guess is that your meter was misread, or the meter is faulty. <A> There are several possibilities here. <S> As others have said, hot water heating systems are closed loop. <S> The water is returned to the boiler, with little loss. <S> Even with steam radiators, the steam condenses and most of it drains back. <S> There are other places the water can go. <S> You might have a bad toilet valve. <S> Surprisingly, a leaking toilet can be a huge water user, constantly running. <S> Even a badly dripping faucet can be a cause. <S> Maybe a hose bib that you don't see normally. <S> Or you might have a leak in the plumbing, hidden in a wall. <S> Are other members of the house using more water than you think? <S> 500 gallons a day is not impossible. <S> Finally, there may have been a mis-read. <S> You can always check the meter yourself to see if that happened. <A> No, it's not an open system. <S> Whatever your consumption problem is, it's not your hot water radiators. <S> But that's just a guess.
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Sounds to me like the supply line between your meter and your house may be broken.
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What kind of material can I use to cover a window to keep the cold out? I have a small window in my bathroom that is high up near the ceiling. It's pretty useless, but since the bathroom is always really cold I think it is letting cold air in. I'd like to prove this theory by covering it up with some sort of temperature proof material. What do you recommend? I rent, so it can't be anything too damaging. I'd also prefer something that is not really ugly like plywood. Any suggestions? <Q> I'd first check for leaks. <S> Even a tiny crack can let a lot of cold air in over time. <S> Caulking would be the proper solution, but since you're renting, foam weatherstripping tape may be a quicker/cheaper solution. <S> (This is probably more likely.) <S> If you don't need the window at all and don't mind blocking its lighting/venting, you can get insulation sheathing for around $10 and cut it to size. <S> If you do need the light from the window, there are various window insulation kits available on the market for $5-10. <S> Then use a blow dryer to even out any wrinkles. <A> I use shrink wrap. <S> Simple and effective. <S> Thermal loss is quite significantly by convection, not conduction. <S> We used it to take on power bills as poor college students, but I also saw this method employed by million-dollar homes. <A> I took plastic sheeting from your favorite home store and duct taped it around the windows to stop the draftiness. <S> It was very effective. <A> Cut bubble wrap to fit the window, spritz it with water and stick it to the window. <S> You can add shrink wrap if you like.
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Next, if the window is single-paned or otherwise just poor quality, the cold could be coming straight through the glass. Essentially it's shrink wrap taped around the window.
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Is voltage too high in C wire going to thermostat? I've managed to add a C wire to my thermostat. I then decided to check the voltage between the R and C wires, and find that it read as 27.8 volts, not the 24 volts it was supposed to be. Could this cause problems? I do have a Lux thermostat which is having trouble with it's ambient temperature reading, but I'm not sure if it's because of the voltage or something else. <Q> It's a bit high but whether it will be a problem depends on your thermostat and how it tolerates the high voltage. <S> Also consider that the furnaces controller board is also receiving this voltage. <S> Before you start anything else, check to see if your thermostat can be calibrated and complete this step first. <S> To rule out the higher voltage as the cause of the faulty temperature reading, find another transformer that gives you close to 24VAC and connect it to R and C - basically use that power source instead of the transformer in the furnace. <S> If the temperature reading is correct now then you have verified the cause. <S> If line voltage is OK and other transformers are OK then you can replace the transformer in your furnace; it's a pretty straight forward replacement usually. <S> Just remember to turn off the power to your furnace first! <A> Normal voltage range for 24 volt HVAC systems is 20 to 30 volts. <S> Normally if you are in that range to the upper/lower bound of accuracy of your measuring equipment you're fine. <S> An induction transformer will read higher when lightly loaded. <S> All of them I've ever worked with over the years do this, even modern switched mode supplies have a lower bound under which they read higher than the nominal voltage. <S> As always check with the equipment vendor if there are any doubts regarding range of voltage over which your equipment is expected to operate. <A> Sounds like your transformer is set to 208vac, not 240vac, or if the transformer has multiple leads on it, the 208vac lead on the transformer is connected to the 240vac line, rather than the more correct 240vac lead. <S> A 208/24vac transformer running at 240vac will put out just about 27.7vac (basically what you are seeing). <S> 208vac is used when the hvac is running on a commercial 3phase electrical system, not residential single phase (240vac).
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If other transformers are also giving higher than expected voltages, check your input line voltage - if that is high, so will the transformer output.
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What options are available for insulating interior walls myself with minimal damage to the wall? United State | California I'd like to insulate the interior walls in my house using a minimally invasive method. My understanding that is that "blown-in insulation" requires specialized equipment and licensed professionals to do it. Are there alternative insulation solutions I can install myself that are cost-effective and won't require me to tear down the wall? <Q> The options that I am aware of: blown in cellulose (they come in, drill 1 small hole in each stud bay, and then fill the bays with insulation) <S> spray in foam (same general technique as the one above) exterior foam boards (they remove the siding, insulate with foam panels, add new siding) <S> Alas, none of them are really DIY. <S> The only DIY method I can think of would be to take down the sheetrock and insulate yourself, but that would be a huge amount of work and likely not save you much much money in the long run. <A> Keep in mind that heat always moves to cold. <S> You want to keep your expensive heat inside your home. <S> Therefore you should remove your drywall and replace it with sheets of polystyrene or similar closed cell insulation carefully fitted, this closes all the gaps and cracks in a wallThen fit new drywall over - job done. <S> The joy of this process is, you can strip off just as much drywall as you can replace over a typical weekend <S> , you don't have to worry about rain or snow or it getting dark, you merely continue at your own pace, insulating the inside of each outside wall at your own speed. <S> Fitting the insulation on the inside, means you don't have the cost of heating your frame, nor do you waste energy heating the spaces between the sticks. <S> When you add up the amount of wood in a typical wall and look at it as a proportion of that wall you can appreciate just how much heat the wall is conducting to the cold outside air. <A> Try using teflon lamination wall paints. <S> This will provide insulation. <S> They are a bit expensive than the normal paints but is definitely worth the money.
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Retrofitting walls with insulation as a DIY project isn't really viable if you don't want to tear open the walls.
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Is it normal to see nails coming through the roof decking after a new roof was installed? Our home was built in 1954, and is a Florida ranch style home. We have about a two-foot overhanging soffit with trusses that show and with tongue and groove under whatever that’s called. Sorry, I don’t know the proper terms… I had my roof redone. And nails have come through the plywood and show all over the attic and all the way around the soffit overhang on the outside.… Some are just the tips of nail that have come through the tongue and groove and some larger nails come through the trusses and have spilt the wood…My husband said this is normal, but it wasn’t that way before. Should the roofer repair all these nail holes? <Q> The plywood can and is expected to take a bit of damage over time and this is okay as long as the shingle has something firm to hold itself down onto. <S> Over time if the plywood is too damaged to properly hold down new shingles or becomes too dangerous to walk on safely then a roofer should be able to identify such compromised plywood board and replace it as needed. <S> What is worrying about your question is that you specified that the roofing nails have split and damaged the roof trusses. <S> Standard roofing nails should not be long or thick enough to split or crack <S> structurally sound dimensional lumber. <S> If this is what happened then you may have a problem unrelated to the quality of the roofing job. <S> Your home is over 50 years old in a warm wet climate, so you should inspect for a number of different problems. <S> Dryrot Termites Carpenter Ants <S> If you have any of the following indications of current or past damage to any of the three items then that would explain split, cracked or damaged roof trusses during a typical roofing job. <S> On another note: The soffit typically fits into a groove that is known as J Channel when installed on a roof overhang. <S> The roof overhang is typically MUCH too tall for any roofing nails to reach soffit. <S> I imagine instead you might be seeing a roofing nails perforating the fascia, which can be a sign of a sloppy rushed job. <S> Without pictures though we can't tell that for sure. <A> It's Florida, you have hurricanes. <S> The lifting force generated by high winds over a roof can pull 3/4" nails out and peel off large sections of roofing, they used 1 1/4" or longer to ensure penetration through all the shingle layers, underlayment and deep enough into the sheeting to hold up to this abuse. <S> Unless you live in the attic, you have no worries. <S> The heads are covered by the shingles so they don't cause leaks. <S> A neighbor down the street from us had the roof on his garage end up laying in the street from a severe thunderstorm downdraft specifically because of this. <S> It's kind of interesting finding a large 20x40 section of roofing laying in the street with underlay tar paper all over the place. <S> The tar strips on the shingles held quite well. <S> The nails didn't hold. <S> The wind gust was so strong it bent the 70' sycamore in my front yard nearly double and broke off several sweetgum trees. <S> Additional information from GAF for impact resistant roofing (tornado alley - wind and hail) as follows: <S> Use only zinc-coated steel or aluminum, 10-12 gauge, barbed, deformed, or smooth shank roofing nails with heads 3/8" (10mm) to 7/16" (12mm) in diameter. <S> Fasteners should be long enough to penetrate at least 3/4" (19mm)into wood decks or just through the plywood decks. <S> Fasteners must be driven flush with the surface of the shingle. <S> Standard nailing pattern is 4 nails per shingle. <S> Depending on local codes and expected wind conditions, 6 nails per shingle is required. <A> In the lower areas with exposed boards, the roofing contractor should have used shorter nails or staples in that area. <S> Exposed nail points would not be acceptable to me. <S> They should be clipped off flush to prevent possible injury if working under the eves, such as painting etc. <S> The exposed nails are also going to be susceptible to rusting over time even it they are galvanized. <A> It is absolutely OK to see nails coming through in the attic. <S> It would be More worrisome to see none. <S> Then you have to be concerned about the nails being too short or possibly having Staples which are an inferior fastener. <S> As to the chipping of trusses or decking/shearing. <S> This is normal especially on older houses. <S> If a 1-1/4" Roofing nail catches the edge of the sheathing it may also catch the edge of a truss and crack or chip either one. <S> On the other hand your roofer screwed up by using too long of a nail on your soffit over-hang. <S> Many older ranch style homes have tongue and groove decking that continues out as the soffit <S> and you must use a shorter nail in those areas. <S> A painter/handyman should be able to grind or cut the exposed nails on the soffit and touch up w paint <A> 3/4" penetration is the law <S> no matter the location on the roof. <S> This is a common thing that CARPENTERS like to say the roofer did it wrong. <S> They should read a code book sometime. <S> The nails need to adequately penetrate for your roof to function properly and to get the full life out of it. <S> If you dont want to see nails then the thickness of the plywood need to increase or the soffits should be enclosed. <S> READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE PACKAGE OF SHINGLES. <S> Its clearly stated with pictures.
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The plywood of your roof is typically not as thick as your standard galvanized steel roofing nail, so it is expected for nails to show through this in your attic.
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How do I remove cat spray smell from the exterior of the house? My in-laws have a cat problem. The neighborhood cat is spraying the outside of their house and evidently it really stinks. How can they get rid of the smell? <Q> Short of industrial cleaners and Kilz Primer, I've not found a better product for dealing with organic compounds deposited by pets. <A> Vinegar and water should work, but really the source of the problem must be stopped. <S> You can try oranges, lemon, grapefruit (citrus) in the area to keep them away. <S> Also I suggest spay/nueter if it is the neighbors cat. <S> There are other ways which are more costly: Motion Sensor + Sound Motion Sensor + Water <A> Hydrogen Peroxide works vey well on odors like cat spray. <S> Test in advance on an inconspicuous area to make sure <S> it doesn't 'bleach' any surfaces.
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Use the same kind you would use for first aide as if it was water, mixing in a bit of dish soap to remove the urine won't hurt either. If it is feral, trapping is an option as well.
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How can I measure the r-value of a wall? What is a reproducible test to measure the r-value of an exterior wall? Or even a specific spot on a specific wall? It needn't produce an absolutely certain result, but a good estimate with known level of confidence would be helpful. This is more a science question than a question about a specific project. <Q> Getting R-value is based on three things really. <S> Materials Distance <S> Sealing <S> Example - If you framed with 2x6s instead of 2x4s with just sheetrock - your wall would have more r-value because there would be a greater distance for air to travel to the other side. <S> Also materials are given an r-value based on their use in a best case scenario. <S> Just because you have insulation that is r-13 doesn't mean you are getting r-13 returns after installing. <S> Think about putting in one piece of insulation that is 12 inches wide to fix a 50 foot gap. <S> Did it do anything measurable? <S> Probably not. <S> Also r-value is a max measurement again. <S> If the temperature outside is 70 degrees and it is 70 degree inside <S> you could have 5 feet of materials with an r-value of 500 but in actuality it is providing an r-value of 0. <S> r-value is measuring a change in temp from one side of a system to another. <S> The more drastic the temperatures the greater need for more r-value and the greater r-value returns you will get. <S> So to answer your question without getting the CSI team together you will need a thermometer and a couple hours of steady weather (turn off your heating/air too). <S> Optional piece of equipment would be a shoebox - to keep thermometer out of sun and drafts. <S> Notice that I didn't answer how much potential r-value a wall could have because that doesn't matter. <S> You will have taped seems, outlets, studs, whatever. <S> You want real world functionality. <S> Take the temperature on outside wall, take the temperature inside, and take the temperature right by same wall in same location. <S> This chart does work. <S> Easiest to do on a window area but works everywhere. <S> To know your systems true r-value you will have to have extreme temps outside/inside. <S> If your system really did perform at greater than r-15 which is about a 5 degree change over the course of a 100 degree temp conflict then you will have to have one of those -40 degree days with a toasty 80 degrees inside to get your true measurement. <S> I have tested out very well insulated houses and they usually max out around r-15 to 20 range. <S> Spray foam in some cases has out produced r-20. <A> You need three temperature probes, a piece of material with known thickness and thermal conductivity (or known R-value) and a good measurement for the actual thickness of the wall. <S> The inside and outside of the building need to be at different temperatures; the bigger the temperature difference, the cleaner the measurement. <S> Sandwich <S> the wall with the known material and measure the temperatures as shown below. <S> The heat moving through the known material, per unit area, q '' = <S> – k <S> Δ T /Δ x , where k is the thermal conductivity of the known material (W/m/K), Δ T is T2–T1 and Δ x is the thickness of the known material. <S> At steady state, the amount of heat flowing through the mystery material has to be the same as through the known material, so you can find out <S> k for the mystery material using <S> k <S> = – <S> q '' Δ x /Δ T , where q '' is the heat flux you calculated before, Δ x is the thickness of the mystery material and Δ T is T3-T2. <S> R-value is Δ x / k , but you have to be careful about units. <S> If k is in W/m/K, R will be in K·m^2/W. Multiply this by 5.678263 to get to h·ft^2·ºF/BTU, which are the usual units for R in the US. <A> An inexpensive laser thermometer would give you readible difference between several points. <S> Both methods require a temperature difference between sides of the wall. <S> The most accurate measurents would require the greatest difference. <S> It would be easier to see the difference between a 70 degree inside temp and a 25 degree outside temp. <A> You could cut out a section of the wall, place it in a box made of an extremely poor thermal conductor, add a known amount of heat to one side, and measure the resulting rate of change in temperature on the other side. <S> This will allow you to calculate the wall's u-value, and the relationship u=1/r will give you the r-value. <S> You could also keep track of the temperatures at the internal and external wall surfaces as well as indoor air and outdoor air over time on a cold night while raising the interior temperature at a steady rate. <S> You may need to ask the Physics site for help with the calculations and potential sources of error for this method. <S> Or you could estimate it by checking the type, thickness, and condition of the insulation and other materials and consulting a chart like this . <S> As a general rule of thumb, you should subtract about 10-40% to account for thermal bridging at studs, imperfect installation, airflow, and other confounding factors. <S> In a near-perfect wall, you might subtract 10% to account for studs, but if it is not properly air-sealed and there are insulation gaps and a couple damp spots, you might subtract 20-50% depending on the severity of the issues.
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A thermographic camera would be an expensive way to measure heat loss.
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Can I install hardwood floors (not floating) on a concrete floor? We have recently bought an old house, and the ground floor has a hard floor and is currently covered in tongue and groove laminate - which we hate. We'd like to put reclaimed floorboards down - is this possible on a solid floor!? If so how would be go about this? If we get the boards cut to size is it something I could attempt - or is a strictly pro job? I'm guessing the latter and that its probably going to be well over our budget (£600 for 2 rooms) - but if anyone can provide any advice we'd be very grateful. <Q> Two of these reasons are: 1) <S> oftentimes <S> the concrete is moisture permeable, which means that any solid wood floor installed directly to the floor will buckle irreversibly; 2) typically solid wood floors are nailed to the substrate, which is not an option with concrete. <S> One can install 1.5" sleepers on top of the slab to provide this nailing substrate, but this affects significantly things like ceiling height, door height, countertop height, etc. <S> One thing I would recommend as a compromise is finding some way to seal the slab, say with an epoxy paint, and then gluing an engineered wood floor to it. <A> An architect friend in Mexico City had put wood floors over concrete but he put wood spacers to separate the two. <S> It worked quite well for him, as he did almost his entire first floor with them. <A> I have done 2 hardwood floors using Dricore . <S> We had to secure the dricore with Tapcon screws . <S> Neither of these installed was a basement. <S> Not sure if I would go this way in a basement unless I was very sure that there was no possible moisture issues. <S> Also I heavily suggest doing one of the following... <S> Staple your hardwood planks on a slant to the Dricore squares. <S> Screw in 1/2-3/4 inch plywood on top of the dricore. <S> We almost had a whole row down before we realized that we might have issues with the hardwood being on a seem. <A> You can use Bostik Seal & Grip on above grade concrete. <S> Recommended for 3/8 solid hardwood or engineered wood. <S> Above grade means not below the ground level such as a basement floor. <S> Trowel adhesive on floor and start dropping in the boards use tape to hold in place until the next day. <S> If floors are not level use self leveling surface patch. <S> This will help with trimming out the baseboards and aid in the installation.
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Installing hardwood flooring over concrete is generally not advisable for multiple reasons. So this is generally not done as a remodel project unless you're remodeling the whole thing. We called Dricore and they walked us through what we needed to do.
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Should I install an inline water heater for my bathroom? It takes 3-4 minutes of the shower running before the hot water reaches my upstairs bathroom. I'd like to not have to waste all that water and time. My initial though was to install an inline water heater to supply my bathroom. Is this feasible? Or are there other solutions? EDIT: I was thinking something like this: <Q> If you lag the hot water pipes you can help reduce the time it takes for the water to heat up as the water in the pipes will stay warmer for longer. <S> Obviously this won't help first thing in the morning when the water's cold. <S> Installing a heater is certainly an option as it will reduce the 3-4 minute "lead time" - especially if you site it as near to the shower as possible. <S> However you have to consider the following: <S> Is the cost of installing and running the heater less than the cost of heating the water that remains in the pipes and left to go cold. <S> If you pay for the amount of water you use then will the reduction in your water bill pay for the heater? <S> Can your shower be connected to an instant hot water feed? <S> If you have a pumped shower then you probably can't do this. <A> From a conservation standpoint it would be best to have the in-line heater fed by a cold water line. <S> I have not done this myself, but I am considering. <S> I haven't determined if gas or electric is preferable. <S> I think both are available. <A> With your cap method you have reduced the volume of water available to just what can be delivered by the single cold water pipe. <S> With current hot/cold piping you have the volume of the hot + the cold pipe - obviously greater than the cold alone. <S> With just the cold will not as strong of flow (volume or pressure). <S> To determine if the cold flow alone will be adequate, just run each fixture with the cold alone on high and see if you are satisfied with the flow. <S> If you are satisfied, the cap method should be fine. <A> Another option to provide quicker hot water is a recirculating pump. <S> These are usually installed on a timer to start up before you need them. <S> They do not waste water but do use a bit more energy via your hot water heater. <S> Often these are installed with a return loop on the hot water from the furthest fixture, but there are so models which can use the cold water supply as a return loop, avoiding the need for the extra plumbing.
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Combine convenience with reducing water usage would be worth the added expense of in-line heater, if you can afford purchase.
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How can I remove paint from slotted screw heads? What techniques work to dig layers of paint out of small slotted screw heads,when the slot is so full of paint a screwdriver won't work? I've tried an awl, utility knife and screwdriver/hammer. These all work, but are tedious when there are a lot of them. See also: How can I extract rusted/painted outdoor screws? or How do I remove calcification from a screw head? <Q> I have successfully removed paint from screw heads and slots by using a rotary tool with a small wire wheel attachment. <A> I've found that using a hot air paint stripper works. <S> Use the concentrating nozzle and a low to medium setting. <S> Then when the paint is soft use a flat bladed screwdriver to first take the paint off the surface and then from the slot itself. <S> Once the head is free from paint a further heating of the screw will also help as there will be a differential expansion of the screw and hinge (or whatever the piece is) which helps loosen the screw. <S> A further trick I don't always remember is that it can help to try to tighten the screw first before removing it. <S> This might just be enough to break the rust/paint <S> /whatever is causing the screw to stick. <A> It was pretty quick!
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I just had good luck removing dried latex paint by soaking the screws in hot water, then rubbing them with a rag.
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How can I add a piece of timber to my metal shed wall without creating a leak? I have a garden shed with steel (powder coated) walls. I'd like to attach a piece of timber to the inside of the wall. I'll use the timber to attach hooks for hanging tools. I don't want the holes I put in the wall to create a leak, and I don't know the best technique to use to prevent it leaking. The shed doesn't have eaves. 2 or 3 bolts through the timber and the shed wall would probably be sufficient when it comes to strength. Would some silicone sealant around the bolts stay watertight for a few years? Is there a better way of preventing water leaking through the bolt holes, or a better way of securing the timber? In case it matters, temperatures in my location range from -5 to 35 C <Q> I would use some neoprene washers between the exterior bolt head and metal wall. <S> Also put some silicon sealant in the hole/bolt. <S> This will keep water out and stop bolt head from scratching the powder coating and causing rust. <S> Should work fine. <A> each having 20# of pull should more than adequate to hang most tools from. <S> Plus you can re position the hanger and no holes in shed <A> Is there any way to fabricate some hooks that can go over the walls where the roof and walls meet. <S> I am thinking of several pieces of 1/8" by 1" flat stock bent into a "J" shape to which you could attach a 2x4. <S> Then install hooks in 2x4 to hang the tools on. <A> I would try construction adhesive before drilling any holes in the wall. <S> The MSDS for Liquid Nails states that the shear strength is 240 psi (1 week cure), and will withstand -18 to 60 C. <S> Should be more than sufficient.
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Instead of through bolting get 3 or 4 3/4" disc Neodymium magnets and cement them to that 2x4.
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How can plywood edges be finished to conceal the plies? My cabinet doors are tired and have many coats of ugly paint. Rather than strip all the paint off, I'm considering just chucking the old doors and making new ones. I like the plain style of just a simple, painted rectangle of plywood. But how can I finish the edges of plywood doors to conceal the plies so they don't shout "I am made of plywood"? <Q> Try iron-on edge banding. <S> Iron it on (you will have excess probably) and then trim the excess. <S> You can usually get it pretty close to the color of your stain that you choose. <A> You could use MDF . <S> Much cheaper than cabinet grade plywood, and will finish up just fine with paint. <A> Use a piece of clear pine (or other inexpensive wood) <S> the same length as the door edge, about 1/4 inch (or more) thick, and a hair wider than the the thickness of the plywood. <S> (You may need to trim down the plywood so the finished size, after edging, fits.) <S> Position edge band <S> so it extends a bit beyond each face of the plywood. <S> Glue to the edge and <S> either clamp or pin it with a brad gun. <S> Once the glue dries, sand the edges flush with the face of the ply. <S> "Break" (slightly round off) <S> the outside edges of the solid wood to give it a finished look before painting. <A> What I have done in the past is routed the edges of the plywood with a round bit, then finish it with sandpaper and seal it with poly and/or stain. <S> While it doesn't hide the layers, it ends up looking pretty good <S> and it is safe. <S> Sort of an industrial look. <S> Just make sure you use a high RPM router with a sharp bit (and wear eye protection).
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A standard approach on shelving (which works on doors as well) is to glue a solid strip of wood to the edge.
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Does a whole house humidifier go on the intake or outlet of the furnace? On what side of the furnace do I install the tank of the humidifier (the warm side or the return air side)? <Q> All the humidifiers I've seen mount on the return plenum and have a duct installed that bypasses the air handler to the supply plenum. <A> Check with your humidifier vendor. <S> Some prefer installing on the return side as, if it fails in a bad way, water is not dripping into the furnace / electronics leading to freezing kids / costly repairs. <S> Evaporative units with fans rather bypass lines normally go on the warm side however some vendors allow them to be installed on the return side provided hot rather than cold water is being used. <S> All others (steam, drum) <S> based units, as far as I'm aware, attach to the warm side. <A> I've had two different whole-house humidifiers, both humidified the return (intake) side of the system, but in two different ways. <S> One was a rotating disc system, which mounted on the bottom of the ceiling-mounted return; the discs rotated into the water and then up into the airflow. <S> In our current house, the unit is mounted on a vertical surface of the hot side, and has a small pump that dribbles water down over a replaceable element; hot air from the supply side blows over the element it and back into the return duct through a small bypass duct.
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Bypass style evaporative humidifiers can usually be installed on either the warm (supply) side or the return side; either side provides essentially the same results.
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Why does my central heating system comes on on its own accord? Can anyone tell me why my central heating comes on by itself: the radiators get hot and stay hot for around 1-3 minutes then the system turns back off again. This can happen any time throughout the day and night, and you can hear the system kicking in. <Q> Depending on the setup, you may be getting some hot water circulation through the radiators when this happens. <S> Is the radiator system steam, or hot water? <S> If it's hot water, can you tell of one or more of the circulators come on when the boiler runs? <A> You might want to check the manual for your boiler: some models of boiler will automatically activate for a short period of time once per 24 hours in order to avoid issues like a pump sticking due to lack of use. <S> If you have such a boiler, then what you're seeing is intended behaviour, and will be described in the manual. <S> This could also be caused by frost protection: many boilers/thermostats will attempt to warm up the system if it's at risk of freezing (as frozen pipes often cause leaks), even if it's switched off at the timer or thermostat. <S> If the temperature is below 10°C, then this seems like a very likely cause of the issue. <S> Also, note that the minimum of most thermostats is normally some specific temperature (e.g. 9°C), rather than "off" (the "completely off" setting is normally set on the timer, not the thermostat). <S> If the interior temperature falls below that value, then the thermostat will be "on" at any setting, because no matter what temperature you set the thermostat to, the interior temperature will be lower than the thermostat setting – and that's the rule the thermostat uses to decide whether to turn on or not. <A> Most heating systems are setup to automatically turn on and off based upon the setting of a thermostat. <S> When heat is required (i.e. thermostat reading lower than setting) then the heat system will come on till the thermostat reads a new temperature higher than the setting. <S> If your system is operating outside this automated procedure then it is possible that the any one of the following has failed in some way: <S> Thermostat not reading correctly Wiring from thermostat to heat system is damaged Relay and control board on heat system has failed or gone intermittent. <S> You may need the aid of a qualified heating specialist to troubleshoot problems like this. <A> If you have a programmable thermostat check every program every day. <S> It is possible a group program was set. <S> I would suspect a thermostat issue 1st. <S> Including a deflective one. <S> If the weather has been below freezing it is possible there is a sensor over ride on a pipe that is suppose to engage only when freezing is imminent.
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If your system also heats your domestic hot water, it may be coming on to maintain the hot water temperature.
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How can I repair water-damaged hardwood countertops? Me and my housemate are complete novices when it comes to home improvement/DIY/etc. so when we moved into a recently renovated house with solid wood worktops, we were oblivious to what care they might need and the thought never crossed our minds. We treated them just like any other worktop, and they have since become damaged. I am concerned about our deposit, so I want to know if there is anything I can do to 'fix' it. There are a few things: The worktops have become sticky because we just cleaned them with ordinary household surface cleaners (not bleach, but chemically stuff) and I think that has caused the 'treated surface' to 'melt' or something. We left pots and pans etc. with water in them to soak on the counter top, making the area next to the sink totally water damaged - the wood is warped, and has gone black. There are a few ringmarks where I've left mugs etc. on the surface What could possibly be done to remedy these? We have not done ANYTHING to maintain these surfaces because we have no idea how to care for them properly, and were not instructed by the landlord to do so. We have no tools or equipment barring screwdrivers, so if you could advise exactly what I'd need to ask for at a hardware store to fix anything that would be great. <Q> I'd really need to see a photo to know, but more or less... <S> A lot of your options aren't great for food prep surfaces: for a non-food surface, I'd use turpentine or Restor-a-Finish . <S> Start with baking soda, warm water and a green scrubber to get the gumminess up. <S> Fill a small bucket with warm water, sprinkle some baking soda down, scrub it up, wipe it up with a wet dishcloth, rinse the dish cloth, repeat. <S> I've heard you can alternately use white vinegar. <S> You probably won't scratch the wood but it never hurts to go with the grain instead of in circles. <S> Either way, don't leave standing water on the counter, clean it up as you go. <S> If it is really nasty you might wind up with a few rinses. <S> Once you get it clean, oil it with mineral oil or refinish it. <S> If you go the mineral oil route, you pour a small amount on (small) and rub it in (with the grain) and repeat. <S> UPDATE: I just happened upon a blog post which suggests that a bowl of hot water, a few tablespoons of murphy's oil soap and a pad of steel wool will go along way. <S> With steelwool and sand paper you definitely want to go with the grain, always. <S> Never ever go in circles. <S> Add the soap to your hot water, scrub with the grain, rinsing often as you go. <S> Change the water as it gets grimy. <S> Keep some rags handy to dry up with <S> so you aren't leaving standing water. <S> As far as the warping goes, you probably can't do much except plane it, is a recipe for making everything worse if you don't know what you're doing. <S> Are you moving soon or just starting to realize you maybe need to be more conscientious? <A> Without photos, it's pretty difficult to answer your questions completely, but... <S> the black stain can usually be removed with oxalic acid ("wood bleach"). <S> As to the bowing along the seam... very often that sort of thing will return to more-or-less its original shape if allowed to dry really thoroughly. <S> I'd leave that one alone until the Witching Hour. <S> The ring marks - that partly depends upon what was used to finish the countertop. <S> If shellac was (ill advisedly) used, often rubbing alcohol will remove the rings by reflowing the shellac. <S> A quick way to test whether it's shellac or not is to dribble a small amount of cheap vodka in an inconspicuous area - <S> if the vodka dissolves the finish there, it's shellac (shellac is unique among wood finishes in that it's alcohol-soluble). <A> Watermark damages on wooden countertops can be fixed with products with oil such as oil base furniture cleaner, petroleum jelly, or mayonnaise. <S> Apply on the affected area, leave it overnight then wipe it off and buff the surface with a clean, dry cloth. <S> You can also use baking soda by mixing it with water creating a paste-like consistency. <S> Rub the mixture on the affected area for about 10 mins and be sure to follow the grain of the wood. <S> Wipe off the excess with a dry microfiber cloth.
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You might try washing soda or dish detergent if the baking soda alone doesn't do it.
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How to mount ceramic tiles in a wrought iron frame? I bought my wife some ceramic house numbers and a wrought iron frame for Christmas. I had assumed I could just pop the numbers into the frame, but that is not the case. The numbers are free floating, and do not fit into the frame snugly. There is about a quarter inch gap all the way around. Please see picture. I thought about cutting a piece of wood to fit the wrought iron frame and adhering the tile to the wood, but as this will be outside I was concerned about wood rot and whether the tiles would adhere well. I have never worked with tile. I also live in New England where this style of house numbering is never used. So I don't have a neighbor's I can inspect for ideas. I guess my specific questions would be: Is it a good idea to adhere the tile to some sort of backing? Should the backing be wood or something else? What kind of adhesive can I use to stick the tile to the backing? <Q> If you decide to glue it, I would consider using a silicone adhesive, as it will flex as the weather changes. <S> An adhesive that is too rigid could cause issues. <A> Probably the nicest way to set the tiles into the frame would be to use a tile setting cement and grout compound. <S> A bead of the tile setting cement can be fitted around the frame channel. <S> Then the tiles can be laid in and pressed down till each is even and spaced nicely. <S> After the setting cement has dried you could come from the front and apply grout in between the tiles and around all the edges. <S> Done correctly this should secure the tiles in a way that will stand up to the outdoor weather. <S> It is possible that you could use a construction adhesive such as Liquid Nails to glue the tiles to the lip of the frame instead of the tile setting cement. <A> I would cut a piece of plywood as close to the inside dimensions of the frame as you can. <S> Paint the plywood with an exterior primer and a coat of paint. <S> From the aestetic point I would use black paint. <S> Install the tiles and glue the plywood in place with construction adhesive. <S> The idea is to allow the tiles to float as the frame and wood expands and contracts with weather changes. <S> You could also drill some small holes in the frame and insert some small wood screws into the wood to hold it in place. <A> I ended up using ideas from each of these answers, plus some of my own, to put something together. <S> These are the steps I took. <S> Cut clear plastic Lexan to the size of the frame <S> Cut a second piece of Lexan to protect the front of the tiles <S> Mount everything in the frame and use black silicon adhesive to fill around all the edges I initially drilled holes through the rear Lexan and put picture hanging wire through them. <S> But the weight of the frame eventually separated the adhesive from the backing. <S> For now I wrapped the picture hanging wire around the frame and hung it over a nail. <S> You can see it in the picture. <S> I'll have to come up with something more aesthetically pleasing in the future.
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Use construction adhesive to attach the tiles to it
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Can I split a 3 wire circuit into 2 separate 2 wire circuits? I currently have a 3 wire running from my panel, red is connected to a 15 amp breaker, black is connected to a separate 15 amp breaker. White is connected to the neutral bus. This is running to a split receptical. I want to install 2 extra outlets. Can I cut the 3 wire, and connect separate 2 wires Black to red and black to black and the connect all neutrals together? <Q> As others have mentioned, this is a shared neutral configuration. <S> Technically, yes you can do it however <S> I believe the current NEC only permits such circuits in a kitchen. <S> The most common use of this is to have an outlet where both top and bottom plugs are on different circuits. <S> The most important part of this configuration is that the two hot conductors come from different legs of your service so that they are out-of-phase from each other. <S> The result of this is that they balance out the neutral conductor; if you used hot from the same phase you could double the allowed current over your neutral conductor. <A> there isn't any relationship between 3 wire cicuits being peculiar in kitchens. <S> Three wire ckts can be utilized for use in any room in a house & in most commercial applications as well. <S> The implied situation aforementioned by others above, is for 2 seperate 120 volt circuits using a common neutral . <S> Note that both the red & black wires must be on seperate phases & should read 240 volts between them ,or double whatever each black or red read to ground , hence ; if u read 112 volts from black to ground & 112 volts from red to ground u should read 224 volts between the red & black in a single phase service found in most homes. <S> The neutral wire will carry the difference between the amperage found on the black wire & the red wire. <S> For example , if there is 5 amps flowing on the black wire & 5 amps flowing on the red wire the neutral wire or white wire will have zero amps on it , but only if the red & black wires are connected to different phases ! <S> In a scenario whereas the red & black are incorrectly connected to the same phase, with 5 amps on the red & 5 amps on the black the neutral current will be the sums of the black & red wires or 10 amps <S> Consequently, with red & black wires connected incorrectly with 15 amps flowing on the red & 15 amps on the black the neutral will carry 30 amperes. <S> On a #14 wire rated for a max of 15 amps you would have 30 amperes flowing on a 15 amp wire which when overloaded will get hot & possibly cause a fire ! <A> If I understand your question right, the answer is yes. <S> Be very careful not to allow the red circuit to contact the black circuit from the original 3 wire source. <A> Sure. <S> It should be evident to someone who is working on the outlets in the future that this is what you did. <S> The hot wire on the 'red' circuit should be marked red. <S> Use red electrical tape to mark the black wire on the 'red' circuit at both ends. <S> Another option is just to continue the split receptical setup for the two additional outlets. <S> All you need to do is remove the fin on the hot side of the outlets to split them. <S> While you are working on these circuits, it might be a good time to install AFCI breakers, if you don't have them already. <S> They can save your life by preventing fires. <S> Recent code requires them in all areas of a home, except where a GFCI is required (bathrooms, kitchens, garages, etc). <A> There's two common configurations: <S> Where both black and red are actually the same feed, but black is always energized and red is controlled by a switch. <S> Normally, you only carry the switched leg up to the single split receptacle, but occasionally you'll see both black and red in every box, allowing any receptacle to be converted to work off the switch. <S> Just make sure you're actually dealing with two circuits. <S> Dual circuit split receptacles as you describe, top half black, bottom half red (with the bond between them broken), sharing a common neutral. <S> Common in kitchens, bathrooms, work rooms, etc. <S> The only thing you have to watch out for on a dual circuit setup is the single neutral. <S> Both circuits have to be on different phases <S> otherwise you create something called a multifeed . <S> If you look in your panel, you have two incoming wires landing on the bus bar where the breakers attach. <S> One black, one red <S> - those are your phases. <S> Every breaker going down the line is on a different phase, e.g.: (incoming utility feeders) | <S> | | | (black) / <S> \ (red) <S> black black red red black black red red <S> Make absolutely sure that the three wire conductor landing in the panel is in fact paired black to black and red to red. <S> Two circuits on the same phase can not share the same neutral. <S> You would never attach a three wire conductor to a tandem breaker, as both circuits in the breaker would actually be coming from the same phase, for instance. <S> Other than that, yes - if you want to 'pigtail' to add additional receptacles you should be fine, and they can share the same neutral (white) wire.
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Treat the red and black as two separate circuits and the whites as a common neutral. You are also required to have the circuit breakers tied together so if one trips, both are shut off. Yes, you should be fine to do this. In my opinion, they should be used all the time when you are running non-metallic cable. Not really common unless it's a custom rough-in.
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What should I look for when diagnosing electrical circuit gremlins where load is much less than capacity? We have an electrical circuit with these loads (all on different outlets): 15W aquarium pump, 250W LCD television, 35W cable box, 13W GoogleTV box, and a 100W ceiling fan (plus an integrated 50W halogen bulb). I believe this is a standard 20A circuit. this is in Minnesota in North America, and at 110 VAC, we should easily be able to run up to 1600 watts (calculating for an inductive load, which is not the case). All of these things have been running at the same time without any problems, for over 4 years - new construction. However, for the past couple of weeks, the television's screen flickers off and on whenever I blip the ceiling fan's rotary dial - turn the fan's dial on and then off, and the screen goes dark for a second or two. It doesn't appear to be a problem with the television itself (at least, none that the internet can help identify). All of these loads (but for the fan) are active for several hours a day. I've tried disconnecting each of these devices in attempts to figure out what's causing this behavior. The only thing that seems to set this off is the 13W GoogleTV box. when this box is unplugged, the television won't flicker when the dial is blipped. This doesn't make any sense at all. We should easily be able to run a peak load of 1600W, and with everything plugged in, we have somewhere in the region of 500W. Is there anything else I should look for, or is it time to throw in the towel and call in an electrician? I can take care of reasonably DIY-able circuitry, wiring changes, etc. <Q> Replace Capacitors in LCD TV Power Supply <S> I would suspect that the problem is within the LCD TV. <S> Your symptoms are representative of the TV power supply just starting to go bad. <S> Small amounts of transient noise on the AC power line caused by switching other loads on and off, particularly the fan speed controller, gets into the TV power supply and causes a disturbance such that the various DC voltages inside are momentarily going unstable. <S> When the TV was new the capacitors in the TV power supply were able to filter out the noise and power line disturbance but as they start to go bad the TV acts up. <S> It is highly likely that you will continue to see degradation in the performance of the TV over time. <S> A common set of symptoms to look for include: <S> The TV may become difficult to turn on <S> wherein you have to press its ON button multiple times to get it to stay on. <S> In the failure progression you may observe a point where when you go to turn on the TV it will blip on for 1 - 2 seconds and then go back off. <S> Eventually it may get to the point that the TV will just simply fail to turn on at all. <S> I have personally experienced this problem with two of my own LCD monitors and got them back to perfect working order by replacing the power supply capacitors. <S> In this case the monitors were about 3 years old. <S> At my place of work I have been reclaiming failed monitors, ranging in age from 2 to 6 years, that were set for scrapping simply by replacing their power supply capacitors. <S> So far I've reclaimed over a dozen monitors that are now keeping their owners happy as 2nd or 3rd monitors off their company issued laptops. <S> Most recently a colleague came to me with his LCD TV with the problem that it was failing to turn on. <S> I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors on his LCD TV power supply board and he reported over the Christmas break that his TV is now working perfectly. <A> Thank you very much for your replies. <S> The process has certainly been enlightening (no pun intended). <S> The fan controller works OK - swapping it out with other rotary switches (and regular on/off switches) <S> did nothing to change the behavior we observed. <S> Plugging in other loads to an outlet on the same circuit - a vacuum cleaner, none the less, among others - also demonstrated the same thing. ... <S> which indicates that the problem is most likely with the television's capacitors. <S> Well, we got a decent enough discount when we bought it a few years ago, and things start to die as soon as the warranty expires, I suppose... :) <S> In any case, thank you, all! <A> Swap Out Your Fan Speed Controller Given your symptoms and some experience with similar "gremlins" I would first suspect your ceiling fan speed controller. <S> Old-school and/or malfunctioning speed controllers inject piles of noise back onto the power line - you might even hear the noise if you have audio gear with high impedance inputs like a guitar amplifier. <S> Most devices seem to deal with power line noise without event, but the odd device (usually powered by a switching power supply and controlled by an embedded processor) seems to have trouble. <S> The test is simple <S> : Replace the suspect speed controller with a modern one, or a switch. <S> If you can switch your fan on and off without side effects, you've probably found the culprit.
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The power supplies inside LCD TVs and LCD monitors use cheap electrolytic capacitors that go bad and cause problems with the device.
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How can I retrofit this existing wall-heater with an external thermostat? My house has several wall-mounted gas heaters. All but one of them have external, easily accessible thermostats. However, the one that happens to be the most used has no remotely mounted thermostat, to change the temperature you have to open the cover at the base, and adjust a knob at the base of the heater. Is there any way to retrofit this heater with a simple remote thermostat? Ideally, I'd like something really simple. All the other heaters I have just use contact-closure (e.g. 2 wire, I think) thermostats, not the programmable electronic kinds, and that's all I really want for this heater too. The heater doesn't currently have any connections for electrical, so an Ideal solution would not require any electrical power. However, I'm not sure if this is possible. I can run power to the heater if I have to, but I'd sure like to avoid any drywall work. Heater pictures: Edit - More Information: The whole burner assembly is completely separate from the actual heater. It looks like the whole burner, with valve assembly, can be separated from the heater with the removal of just two screws. Anyways, the heater model is a Williams 35 GV-C-5T NAT (I think. See picture): The burner assembly and valve is a RobertShaw Grayson 7000 SRLC: Of note is that on the instruction plates in the heater, there are several diagrams that show a similar valve that supports a remote thermostat: However, in both cases, the images are for a 7000 M VRLC or M VRCLC, while the heater I have is a S RLC. <Q> This is the same as one would have in an RV. <S> They do not use any electricity, and the thermostat is part of the gas regulator. <S> The only remote I am aware of would be a remote thermocouple. <S> I'm not sure if your unit has a removable sensor. <S> If it does, then you can place the sensor elsewhere, but you will still have to set the desired temp on the dial in the unit. <S> There is no actual remote thermostat for this type of unit that I am aware of. <A> It also uses a "thermocouple" to ensure your safety if the pilot light is extinguished. <S> You can install the gas valve with a "M" code designation, this one works with a "Powerpile" type of control, it generates its own power for a remote thermostat. <S> But be prepared, these valves are expensive! <A> This isn't impossible, but you'll want someone who has done it before You will indeed need to have the gas valve replaced to install a thermostat on this heater -- <S> your existing valve (a Robertshaw 7000SRLC also known as a Robertshaw 710-204) is a hydraulically operated thermostatic valve that has no electrical actuation means, just a safety magnet and thermocouple system. <S> According to the Sears Parts Direct page for your heater (the C in the model number appears to be irrelevant), a suitable substitute is a White-Rodgers 36C03U-433. <S> This valve is a millivolt gas control and thus can be used with millivolt-compatible thermostats -- the existing thermocouple will need to be replaced with a thermopile generator to perform this substitution as well. <S> Other options could include replacing the wall furnace wholesale (a Williams 3509822 is a suitable replacement which supports millivolt control), or using the Robertshaw 7000MVRLC/MVRCLC millivolt valves if the 36C03U-433 is unavailable. <S> I strongly recommend having this job done by someone who is experienced in commercial gas appliances <S> , BTW -- gas valve retrofits like this are vastly more common in commercial/industrial work than they are in a residential setting, and I suspect that many residental plumbers who work with gas aren't going to be very experienced with this type of job. <S> One final note is that your heater may or may not have a safety switch -- it appears that the Robertshaw 7000 (nee 710) series does not support a high-limit system that operates outside the thermostat system. <A> On a Coleman wall furnace with a standing pilot, I used a Honeywell V800A1070 . <S> I threw in a 24V step-down transformer wall thermostat <S> and I also didn't have any rollout protection. <S> It runs on one setting until the thermostat is satisfied.
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The style of gas valve you have has a separate temperature sensor which cannot be adapted to a remote thermostat. I think what you have is a mechanical thermocouple sensor that is connected to the regulator.
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How can I fix a table top that I spilled air freshener on? I spilled air freshener on the top my dining table. It is a veneer top with urethane finish. The area is sticky to touch. How can I fix this? <Q> As mentioned, goo gone and any similar organic solvent should help... <S> Things like mineral spirits, wd40 etc. <S> Test those in an inconspicuous location first. <S> Neither will harm a poly surface, but unless you finished it yourself you can never know for sure. <A> I assume you wiped up the "air freshener", whatever that is, already. <S> You essentially need to re-build the finish using tiny amounts at a time. <A> I did this once. <S> I didn't notice it came off until I wiped it off. <S> I just sanded the whole top of the table until it was bare wood and re-stained it and added a polyurethane on top. <S> Looks new.
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If the thing you spilled dissolved the finish and left it rough, then the way to fix it is to get the exact same finish liquid and rub a very small amount of it on the surface and rebuff it.
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How do I get even temperatures in my two-story house? There is only one A/C system in the house. I noticed there is at least several degrees difference between the two stories. How do I get both stories to have the same temperature? <Q> If you have forced air, running just the blower fan to recirculate the air may help. <S> Most thermostats have a way to manually set the fan to "auto" or "on", and you can also get thermostats where you can program the fan to come on at regular intervals. <S> Beyond that, there are changes you can make with varying levels of difficulty and cost: Plant trees or install blinds to shade windows where sun is coming in and heating the room more than the rest of the house Check for poor insulation around the house <S> (this can be done with an IR sensor or camera). <S> Check for and fix drafts and air leakage <S> Install a multi-zone heating system. <S> This requires some potentially major work to the house -- varying from installing dampers and separate controls to installing a second HVAC system -- but it would give you complete control over heating/cooling in two (or more) areas of the house. <A> This is what I do. <S> In summer the temperature of my top floor is way more than the ground floor. <S> We use dry straws all over the roof. <S> Then we pour water in it and let the water sink into the porous straws. <S> (This will not work with non-flat roofs). <S> This will reduce the temperature of your top floor. <S> Also like @gregmac said check for leaks, that can also be a culprit. <S> Let me know if you want more help. <A> Short of running the blower constantly as gregmac mentions, you can adjust your vents and dampers so that you cool the upstairs in the summer and heat the lower floor in the winter. <S> From the outside, these dampers will appear as a small metal lever on the side of the duct that's open when it's inline with the duct and closed when it's perpendicular.
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On my HVAC ducts, I have dampers that adjust how much air goes to each section of the house, so it's quick to switch from winter to summer that I do when switching the thermostat from heat to AC. The straws act as insulators and prevents sunlight from being absorbed.
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Why does my toilet randomly start running? Sometimes my toilet starts running for a few seconds at a time, like it's just finishing filling up the tank. Usually this happens when the bathtub is being drained, or when I turn on the facets in the sink, but I think it also happens sometimes when no water is being used anywhere else. As far as I can tell the flapper in the tank is working fine, and I don't see any leaks anywhere. <Q> The typical toilet tank will have a flapper which seals the water in the tank. <S> When you flush the toilet, the flapper is lifted and water is allowed to move from the tank into the bowl. <S> Once a set amount of water has exited the tank, the flapper falls back down and re-seals the tank. <S> The most common issue with toilets randomly flushing is that the flapper has become brittle or sediment has formed on the flapper/tank which prevents the flapper making a complete seal. <S> This will allow water to slowly drip from the tank into the bowl. <S> If enough water is permitted to leak out of the tank, the filling mechanism will be triggered and the tank will refill. <S> If enough water enters the toilet bowl, the self-siphonage will be triggered and the bowl will drain into the sewage system. <S> Here's a picture of a typical assembly: <A> My problem was that the chain was too tight and was exerting constant upward pressure on the flapper mechanism. <S> By adding a link to the chain, the problem was resolved. <A> I had this problem before. <S> It was due to the big plastic nut that hold the flapper unit to the tank <S> was not tight enough, thus water was slowly seeping out. <S> This may be your problem if the other suggestions are not it. <A> I think pdd's answer is the right idea. <S> The fix is to replace the flapper. <S> It's a $5 part and requires no tools to install. <S> It's a 5 minute fix. <S> I recommend replacing with a flat rubber flapper since a rounded/shaped flapper may not fit your drain hole well. <S> They also make flat hard plastic flappers with large rubber washers attached, but I've found these do not seal as well as flat rubber. <S> If you want to confirm that your flapper is leaking, pour some food color into the tank and check the bowl a few hours later. <S> If the water in the bowl is discolored, the flapper is not sealing as it should. <S> If you have no food color, you can get blue plumbing dye from any home supply retailer or hardware store. <A> Put a lead fishing sinker inside the hollow flapper to better seal when the flap is down. <S> Be sure the lead weight is big enough not to fall out through the hole in the flapper. <A> Always make sure the refill tube going into the overflow tube does not extend down below the fill line. <S> If it does, the refill tube may slowly siphon water from the tank into the bowl causing water loss and intermittent running of your toilet to refill the tank. <S> This mimics the effect of a leaky flapper. <S> Some toilet repair kits come with an extremely long refill tube and many novice or DIY repairmen just shove the refill tube into the overflow tube extending below the fill line by several inches. <S> The refill tube should always be cut and clipped to the top of the overflow tube. <A> It can happen for one of the following reasons <S> Main tank cleaning of the apartment buliding The toilet water controller or stopper is damaged Jammed flush systems due to high water iron <S> Generally the thing stops automatically unless there is an internal fault. <S> Try draining all water and refilling the flush to see if there is any leak or anything. <A> I had the same problem with an upstairs toilet. <S> A plumber came over and fixed a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV) valve in the basement that adjusted the water pressure into the house and havent heard a thing since. <A> I had a long chain that was stuck between the stopper and was causing it not to seal. <S> I'd recommend checking around the stopper. <A> Another thing not mentioned here, but along the lines of the PRV... <S> when you turn on a water faucet then turn it off abruptly, there is a slight, momentary increase in pressure, which may cause the fill valve seal to lift. <S> This motion will also cause the float ball to 'bounce', causing a run-stop-run-stop situation at the valve. <S> Usually only lasting a few seconds. <S> I hope I explained this satisfactorily.
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Almost certainly your flapper no longer seals properly.
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Can I float a tongue-and-grooved 1x12 pine floor over a concrete slab on grade? I have bare concrete floor that was, until recently, covered with carpet. After recently seeing a friend of mine purchase raw pine, shape the tongue-and-groove himself, and seal it to achieve a wonderful result, I wanted to do the same. The difference is that he was nailing directly to an existing wood floor, and I'm going over a concrete slab on grade. I'm leaning toward a floating installation because I'm doing it myself, so it's less cost and less effort. Almost everything I've seen is suggesting that the strata should look like so (From bottom to top): concrete slab moisture barrier 3/4" plywood (fastened to concrete) moisture barrier hardwood nailed to plywood However, I'm thinking that I'm going to run into issues with door clearances using this approach. Can I use thinner plywood in layer 2? Or my alternative thinking: concrete slab moisture barrier hardwood glued at t&g joints Does this approach make sense? What are the potential issues? Does gluing the joints help or hurt? <Q> You can float wood flooring installs over concrete. <S> Moisture is your primary enemy here, and uneven concrete will also be evident in the finished result. <S> I would consider painting on a moisture barrier, and then using a moisture/sound/mold/mildew/pad atop that. <S> You should absolutely glue the joints. <S> Set the first three courses straight and true and let the glue dry overnight. <S> Afterwards, glue each joint and use blue painter's tape every few courses to hold them together. <S> An uneven floor will show up more if your wood isn't beveled, and you'll notice dips with "springiness" in the finished wood floor. <A> The door heights don't matter, you can cut the bottoms to fit your flooring. <S> However you do need to be close to the flooring level in whatever room(s) <S> you are attached to. <S> This wood may need to sit a while too and you may need to buy a moisture meter. <S> Not knowing where you are getting it from or the exact grade it is hard to give advice on this. <S> 3 weeks would be my minimum. <S> And then lastly float vs nail... <S> I don't think it is a choice. <S> Good floating floors require very tight, precise, and most of the time curved cut-outs. <S> Companies that produce floating flooring go through these issues (sometimes with poor outcomes) <S> so I would highly recommend not going this way. <A> I am a big fan of DriCore . <S> These are interlocking tiles, about 2ft on a side that combine a moisture barrier and a particle board surface as a subfloor. <S> The barrier is a waffled plastic that actually lets any free moisture be exposed to air to dry out. <S> It is a bit thicker than 3/4 but adds more opportunity to solve any residual mositer problem. <S> I would also pre treat the floor with a Drylock type waterproof paint before installing the DriCore. <A> Most floating flooring systems have a plastic bubble wrap/like plastic barrier between the original floor (be it concrete or wood) and the actual floor material (usually a laminate). <S> I was thinking a paint on moisture barrier. <S> It probably wouldn't hurt to do both. <A> Wow! <S> most of the comments must be from novices. <S> I'm a 30 year custom wood flooring installation & finishing pro and cannot believe the things I just read; especially the "let the wood acclimate for a year" LOL really? <S> I will lay out exactly what you have to do also the pro's & con's of what you want to do. <S> and so you can anchor the floor by nailing into the joists themselves. <S> The first 2 rows should be top nailed at 16 on center to anchor the floor. <S> The same goes for the last 2 rows at other end of the room. <S> Middle is randomly hit by using the power nailer or Bostitch pneumatic nailer/stapler. <S> CONCRETE:1) secure 3/4" plywood to the concrete using 2-1/4" Tapcon concrete locking screws. <S> This requires drilling each with a titanium drill bit. <S> (you let the hammer drill do the work or you will go through tons of bits. <S> Not cheap bits! <S> 2) Use only 3/4" hardwood. <S> If your set on Pine use a yellow pine <S> they're harder. <S> But if you want to use white 'construction grade' pine, keep in mind they shrink a lot more than most floors.(BTW <S> all flooring should be brought inside the home and temps <S> should be around 69-72 <S> * for optimal acclimation for about a week) <S> Skipping this will cause the floor to shrink & gaps to develop all over weeks later.3) <S> Install your floor with the nailer(pneumatic 2" staples are best, they have glue on them that is friction activated) <S> (Keep in mind a 12" wide plank needs to be glued down to the floor as well as nailed due to excessive width. <S> Anything over 4"must be glued down by troweling a mastic then placing the board in place then nailing the usual way at the tongue <S> then repeat)(if not glued the wide planks <S> will 'curl' up from expansion regardless of acclimation. <S> Nature of wood is to absorb moisture from the air and 'breath' in and out in accord with the seasons).4) <S> Sand stain & finish to suit.(keep in mind <S> Pines do not accept stain evenly & your best option is natural-honey which is straight urethane).
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But seeing as the laminate flooring barrier is plastic it would protect the wood from rising damp anyway. First of all hardwood floors are 3/4" and meant to be nailed or stapled using 2" cleats or staples into plywood the opposite direction of homes floor joists for strength Laminate flooring is quite thin compared to real wood so you may need to plane the bottom of your doors to fit. I am not sure you will have the skills or equipment to do this. Also if your connections are a little loose you might be happy after the install but have issues a year or two down the road.
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Can a gas fireplace insert heat an entire house? I have a single-story 1400 sq/ft house (4 bedroom). Here's a VERY rough sketch of the layout: The house has blown-in insulation on the exterior walls but no insulation on the interior walls. Windows are single-pane aluminum (we're getting ready to systematically replace these this year). At the current time, we don't have any heating (the fireplace that's there is a standard masonry fireplace but we haven't used it (there's a gas line hookup nearby but it's not connected). At this point, we're considering a couple options: 1) Get a gas-powered fireplace insert 2) Get central heating. The fireplace salesman naturally said that his solution is the best (citing something about fireplace inserts offering better energy/heat transference efficiency than central heating). I like the idea of a thermostat-controlled fireplace insert but I'm skeptical that something like this could heat an entire house. So my questions are: 1) Is it remotely possible for a fireplace insert to heat an entire house? Especially considering the rough dimensions of my house? 2) Are Fireplaces truly more heat/energy efficient? <Q> There is no way that a simple fireplace insert can heat a house the same way that a central air system that pipes the heated air into each room. <S> It is possible to have a fireplace built that has a heat exchanger built into it that feeds into an air circulation system such that the warmed air is moved around to other parts of the house. <S> However I doubt that your existing fireplace has this heat exchanger system built into it... <S> then yet the ducting to an air curculation system into the rest of the house. <S> I'm glad to see that you seem to have it in mind that the advice that you get from the fireplace salesman will always be biased toward what he is trying to sell you!! <A> The answer will depend on how much you need to heat the house. <S> Are you talking about taking the chill off on a 50°F morning or keeping the pipes from freezing when it is 20°F outside? <S> If you need to heat your home to keep it from freezing, then looking at the floor plan I would opt for central heating. <S> In my experience area heaters will comfortably heat the room they are in and any directly adjacent rooms. <S> To get the rooms at the extreme ends comfortable, the room with the heater will be really warm. <S> This can eased some what with fans to circulate the heat but this doesn't work well if the doors are closed for any length of time. <S> When salesmen make statements about efficiency they may be giving you some of the truth. <S> Electric heat is very efficient, none of the heat it generates goes up the flue. <S> However it may not be cost effective if your kilowatt rate is very high. <S> You have to compare apples to apples. <S> A gas insert may be more fuel efficient than an oil fired furnace. <S> That means that less of the heat from burning the fuel goes up the flue. <S> This doesn't mean it is the best way to heat your house. <A> It won't heat a house as evenly, but a direct vent gas fireplace with a good blower can be fairly efficient and can definitely heat 1400 square feet (provided you size the insert correctly). <S> I see two drawbacks: 1) <S> You'll need a blower on it. <S> Blowers can be noisy. <S> Probably won't be able to watch TV if it's sitting next to the fireplace. <S> 2) <S> You're probably not going to get even heat in that floor plan. <S> Bedroom 3 will be a lot colder than the room with the fireplace. <S> You can possibly remedy issue #2 by installing ceiling fans in several rooms. <S> That will keep air moving throughout the house. <S> (you could just use floor fans too, though that's a little cumbersom). <S> All that said, maybe #2 isn't all that big of a problem. <S> If you're mainly in the bedrooms to sleep, a handful of blankets might be all you need to even things out. <S> (some folks prefer cold bedrooms anyways (I do)). <A> I have an Empire brand 65,000 btu input free standing stove with blower that heats my house (about 1,000 sq.ft.) <S> and it heats it quite well during our sometimes extremely cold northern Michigan winters. <S> We're talking some -20 plus wind chill days where it runs every 10 minutes <S> but it does the job. <S> Now this is an old house which has been insulated but there are enough drafts to remind you <S> it's not July. <S> The bathroom which is furthest from the heat source gets to about 65. <S> I've thought of getting two small vent free heaters to put in the kitchen and living room which are at opposite ends of the houseto more evenly heat the place and thus not tax any one unit by having it run so often. <A> I grew up for a time in a house smaller than yours, 1000ft with two bedrooms, in the Pacific Northwest. <S> Insulation was pretty much non existant. <S> We did heat the entire house with a woodstove. <S> It wasn't a huge unit, and you could certainly get an insert with a lot more heat. <S> There are two requirements to doing this. <S> You have to keep the stove hot almost all the time, and you have to install some kind of circulation system. <S> With a woodstove you can control the burn rate, so you would want a variable gas insert, especially to keep it from cycling too often. <S> You won't be able to bring the house up to temperature faster than a couple hours, so you have to make sure to keep it from getting too low. <S> The second requiremnt is circulation. <S> You will absolutely want to move air out of the heated space and into the bedroom, otherwise they may never heat. <S> We installed small fans in several closets and hung a fan in the hallway leading back to the bedrooms. <S> It will almost certainly be cheaper and more pleasant to install central air. <S> My advice is: Keep the fireplace as an accent piece and for the pleasance of the fire itself. <A> I've got a bungalow with all glass windows along the front and a walk out basement with lots of glass as well. <S> 1400 <S> sq ft per floor. <S> On the upper level, a 30 000 btu gas Insert fireplace and on the lower a woodstove. <S> I have been here for a year and am blown away by how well the gas insert heats the main level! <S> Kitchen, dining and living rooms are open and evenly warm. <S> The bedrooms a little cooler and perfect for sleeping. <S> We are currently pricing a gas stove to replace the wood stove downstairs. <S> For even consistent heat.
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I believe you could (depending on where you live) heat your house with a gas insert, but it is a very different way of living to central heat.
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How to make a Bevel Lap Splice joint, for connecting a portable floor? I'm new to woodworking, and I've read that I could potentially create this joint using a table saw, jointer, or even a circular saw - but I do not want to rent/purchase one and find out that I can't. Here is what it looks like / description: Bevel lap splice joint The bevel lap is a variation of the half-lap in which the cheeks of the opposing members are cut at an angle of 5 to 10 degrees, sloping back away from the end of the member, so that some resistance to tension is introduced. This helps to prevent the members from being pulled apart. I will be making floor panels that will hook together using this joint, and can easily be picked back up and stored. <Q> This will be a tricky joint, and it won't be as strong as you'd like, because the 'neck' of the bevel will be pretty thin. <S> But I'm going to explain how to do it. <S> You need a table saw and a jig/sled to hold your board vertically. <S> This jig is usually used to make the 'cheek' cuts on tenons, so you may have one. <S> You'll make two cuts--one shallow crosscut at the deepest point of the bevel, and one face cut to make the bevel itself. <S> Then you can optionally clean up the junction, or, you cut the notch a little deeper (at the expense of weakening the wood further); I show the latter (faster) solution here, since you'll be doing a LOT of these. <S> Carefully set the depth of the cross-cut to the depth of the bevel. <S> (See picture two.) <S> Cut a notch across the bottom of the wood. <S> Mount <S> the piece of wood vertically in your cheek-cutting sled. <S> Set the angle of your table saw to the angle of the bevel, looks like about 5-8 degrees might be enough. <S> Adjust the left-right position of the sled so that the top of the cut lines up with the corner of the bevel. <S> (See picture three.) <S> I have totally exaggerated the amount of kerf and overcut you'll get just <S> so you can see the dangers. <S> In practice you can make the second cut so that it doesn't overcut at all. <S> The annoying part is you can't test the fit until after step 2, which means you have to recreate the depth for step 1. <S> Not the end of the world, just take your time and sneak up on the depth from the 'shallow' direction. <A> I think your question is, "Should I go ahead and buy/rent these tools with the confidence that I am going to be able to successfully cut these joints?"My answer is, "No." <S> I'm not at all new to woodworking, I've been working on various tablesaw/router/bandsaw projects for years. <S> And cutting these joints on 3x4 pieces of MDF would be VERY difficult to do cleanly. <S> Not impossible, but definitely advanced. <S> I suspect you'll end up needing a fairly involved jig for a tablesaw, or a special bit in larger router/shaper. <S> I advise you consider alternatives. <S> Using 16" laminate floor squares comes to mind, but any sort of click-lock laminate is pretty fast/simple to install, and would make a great dance floor. <S> But I don't think the fancy cut on the mdf is going to work for you. <A> OK, now that I know what your goal is, here are some comments: A portable dance floor needs to have the individual sections lock together to avoid separation or movement and potentially resulting in injury and lawsuits. <S> The outside perimeter needs to have a beveled edge to avoid tripping. <S> Something like the tabled lap joint would probably work best. <S> The corner pieces and outside perimeter pieces will have 2 or 3 sides jointed, respectfully. <S> The center of the field will have to have oriented splices on all four sides. <S> The panels should be numbered for easy assembly. <S> As far as the material to use. <S> MDF will glue up OK for vinyl, but since there will be thin edges at the splices, it could be very prone to corner and edge chipping if assembled/disassembled often. <S> I might recommend an A/C marine grade plywood. <S> It is very stable, strong and uses a moisture resistant adhesive between the plies. <S> Vinyl will adhere well on the A side. <S> It also will hold up well to moisture and spills. <S> There will not be a substantial difference in weight. <S> Although this would not be a difficult project, some experience using a table saw with a dado on larger pieces would be helpful. <S> Proper support for the stock while doing these cuts is important. <S> The plywood stock needs to be flat and supported at all times for the dado cuts to be accurate, avoid kickbacks and assure your safety. <S> Good Luck.
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This type of joint can easily be done on a table saw with an adjustable dado blade.
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Do Wood Stove/Fireplace Inserts come in 'direct vent' configurations? It appears that gas fireplace inserts are common in a direct vent configuration (where combustion air is brought in from the outside). Are there wood burning fireplaces that are direct vent? I'm not finding any with my web searches. Do they exist under a different term? Or do they not exist and, if not, why is that? <Q> The usual definition is the gas combustion products are vented directly through the wall and no conventional flue or chimney is required. <S> They also draw combustion air from outside, and the combustion chamber can be sealed off from the house entirely. <S> You will not find a wood burning fireplace that does not require a chimney. <S> Such a contrivance would not draw properly and would be dangerous for burning solid wood fuel. <S> There are a few pellet stoves listed for this configuration however, but not for logs. <S> If your main concern, as you mention, is only that combustion air be drawn from outside, there are many fireplaces that offer this configuration as an option, including the ability to seal off the combustion chamber. <S> They typically do this by inserting some device that blocks the device's usual combustion air intake from the house and instead provides a 4" dia. <S> duct connection. <S> It's up to the installer to route the duct to the outside. <S> These all still will require a chimney terminating above the roof, typically 6" dia. <S> I would start searching for such devices by searching wood burning fireplace outside air. <S> You should find many fireplaces have this option, though sometimes you need to dig in the fine print to see that it's available. <A> Yes, they certainly do, but require drilling a hole or running a pipe up the flue. <S> There are also no vent logsets that work great. <S> Just close the damper and feel the heat. <S> The non-vented logsets are a great way to use an existing wood fireplace with a new hight tech much more efficient and cleaner fire. <A> I have installed quite a few wood stoves that had options to directly bring in fresh air to the stove. <S> In some cases I have been able to use the ash clean out for the source of fresh air on fireplaces that did not have <S> an ash clean out <S> I have opened a hole and lined with duct work. <S> These are the main types of venting I preferr, there have been a few that I added a vent through the wall but this allows cold air into the house. <S> I have never run an air supply line up the flue and was thinking if it was done this way would the draft have problems as the stack heated up and now the supply air is getting heated would this cause draft problems?
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Depends on how you are defining direct vent.
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How could I use 40lb Propane tanks in a residential hook up? I have two 100 gallon tanks from suburban propane but end up using so little, that I am charged approx $5.30 per gallon. I am reasonably sure that I could use two 40lb tanks and do the legwork myself without much inconvenience but I have no idea if such a setup is advisable or even possible. Right now, the propane is only used in my stove/range and as a rarely used backup to my electric heat. <Q> Make sure you are present when they unhook <S> so there is no damage to your connection. <S> I recommend that you use a pair of tanks, so that there is always a spare on hand. <S> One is disconnected and capped. <S> (Bugs love to nest in the opening...) <S> Note that for emergency heating you can go through a tank of propane in a hurry. <S> There may be merit in buying your own 100 lb tank, and parking it next to your hookup. <S> You need a friend to horse it there, but it may be there for a LONG time before you need to refill it. <S> Also: Here in Alberta, you can get an older tank recertified (Pressure test and a new valve) for much less than the new cost. <S> Not worth it for the barbecue size but for 40's and up <S> it may be worth it. <S> Many propane dealers are set up to do this. <S> A final thought: While $5 a gallon is too much, your project is going to save you only a hundred bucks a year, and the first year of that is gone to get your tanks. <S> Is it worth it? <S> Keep your tanks painted to stop rust. <S> Either aluminum or white. <A> First problem is that you are with Suburban. <S> They are worse than Comcast when it comes to customer support. <S> Also, $5.30 is way too much to pay for propane. <S> I pay $2.70. <S> If you are truly using only 40 gallons a year, you are correct to get smaller tank. <S> You can shop around your local Propane suppliers to get good deal. <S> This is not always the best deal, but it helps convince the suppliers that they are dealing with an informed buyer. <S> and since the price of propane follows that of gasoline, you will know when is good time to call around. <S> on the topic of available, ask the suppliers on your phone calls. <S> usually install is free and rental is free with annual purchase of one tankfull of gas. <S> good luck <A> Technically you need a high pressure regulator at the tank and a low pressure regulator at the stove. <S> Tank pressure has to be regulated down so that your low pressure regulator can further reduce it to 11" water column pressure which is what the range needs to see. <S> If you try to feed the green regulator from the tank, you may blow it out particularly on a hot day when the tank pressure rises.
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One thing to consider is OWN the tank, shop around for the fuel. I recommend you have a certified gas man check your installation to make sure it is safe, most will do it off the books night or weekend and charge you under $50 to check. Call suburban, tell them that you don't want the tanks any more.
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How do I determine which wax ring to use under my toilet? Other questions almost answer this question. What is the purpose of the flange on the wax ring? I can purchase a ring with or without the flange. How do I know whether to get the standard ring or the thick ring? I really don't like the idea of trial and error. 1) A leak may not show up until just after I've concluded that there are no leaks. 2) the marginal increase in price for the thicker ring is so small as to make the cost of my time the overwhelming factor (is it safe to always use the thick ring?) <Q> How tall the ring is depends on how close the toilet's outlet horn is to the flange. <S> Under ideal conditions, the standard ring is just a bit too tall so that it compresses just enough to form a good seal without squeezing out into the drainage path and causing an obstruction. <S> Toilets with more than normal spacing will need a taller ring to achieve a proper seal. <S> But if you use a tall ring without the flange on a properly spaced toilet installation, excess wax will be squeezed into the drainage path, causing an undesirable obstruction. <S> This is why double height rings are often sold with flanges, the flange keeps the wax out of the drainage path. <S> But the flange itself is a bit smaller than the outlet pipe, so it forms a bit of an obstruction itself. <S> Thus, it's not something you want to use unless there's a good chance <S> you'll need it. <S> You can estimate which height ring is needed and if a flange is a good idea or not by placing a straight edge along the base of the inverted toilet and measuring from the straight edge to the ceiling of the toilet base. <S> Adjust this measurement by how high or low the floor flange surface is from finished floor. <S> The wax ring should be compressed around 1/2 to 3/4 <S> it's initial height once installed. <S> If it will compress less, you need a taller ring. <S> If it will compress more, consider getting one with a flange to limit wax extrusion into the drainage path. <A> I always purchase the extra-thick ring with the flange. <S> The cost difference is not that great. <S> The flange helps to ensure that the ring is centered over the flange in the floor and to direct the waste into the pipe. <S> More wax in the ring helps ensure a good and thick seal. <A> Yes you can buy a wax ring with or without the attached plastic "guide" flange at any home improvement store. <S> The flange is supposed to sit on top of the floor, but sometimes people remodeling a home install flooring on top of original flooring, causing the flange to be recessed. <S> I guess a thicker wax ring would help counteract this, but if this is the case you should get a floor flange extender. <S> You don't know what you have until you get the toilet up. <S> Just buy a regular ring, and if your flange is recessed in the floor get a flange extender. <A> The flange on the wax ring has the purpose of flashing the toilet protecting against leaks, guaranteeing that water can not escape when there is not a blockage. <S> The cone on the bottom of the toilet sets in the cone of the wax seal creating a propor flashing against water intrusion. <S> Using a thick enough wax seal allows for a proper seal against back-ups. <S> I couldn't believe anyone would not use a wax ring with a flange during an installation as a roofer it seems completely idiotic. <A> On occasion the flushing will cause the rubber flanges to leak between the rubber and the cast iron seat... <S> this will not cause a puddle around the base of your stool <S> but instead it will drip wastewater down the cast iron pipes and travel along your wall or floor and ruin drywall and cause mold. <S> The rubber is a bad idea because when it fails you won't know it until its done $1000s in damage...
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The purpose of the flange on the ring itself is to help guide installation and to keep excess wax from obstructing the drain.
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Can I vent my bathroom exhaust fan into a plumbing drain vent? I installed a bathroom fan in the ceiling. My bathroom is in the room right next to the laundry room. The washing machine has the standard drain pipe vent of a pvc pipe venting to the outside through the roof. To avoid cutting another hole in the roof I connected the bathroom fan vent to the washing machine drain vent in the attic so it can vent outside. The only problem I can foresee with this is maybe some rain could possibly get down into the bathroom fan, but that is very unlikely the way I have it set up. Any other issues or problems I can't see? <Q> You have two big issues here. <S> First is that you have a serious risk of venting sewer gasses into your home. <S> This is why drain vents open above the roof line or use one-way air admittance valves. <S> This is likely to be unpleasant and possibly unhealthy. <S> Second is that a drain vent is typically too small and too moist to properly vent a bathroom fan. <S> Your fan is probably designed to use a 4" duct, and instead it's going through a 1.5" diameter pipe. <S> Beyond those functional problems, you'll also have a pretty visible issue that anyone inspecting your attic will see. <S> You should do this the right way: add a properly-sized duct line and a roof vent for ventilation, and re-seal your drain vent pipe. <A> Not enough detail to be sure, but I doubt that the drain vent has a large enough cross-section to allow enough airflow. <S> The vent pipes in my house are 2"; the ventilator conduits are 6" or 8". <S> You may find that your fan is spinning and making a lot of noise but not moving much air... <S> The downside, if rain does get in, isn't just that the fan might stop working - it very well might catch on fire <S> *. <S> So make absolutely certain that rain won't get in, OK? <S> * <S> My sister's bathroom ceiling fan caught fire a couple of months ago - albeit due to advanced age, not rain damage - and came very close to burning down the house. <A> The answer is no way! <S> Sewer gas is explosive and could settle back into your exhaust fan which has an electric motor that is not rated for explosive gases. <S> If a fire or explosion were to occur, good luck on your insurance claim and worse if someone was to be injured. <S> Vent the fan through the roof as required and fix your sewer vent system.
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And if any lint/dust gets pushed out by your fan, it risks accumulating on the sides of the vent pipe, potentially blocking the pipe and slowing both your drainage and ventilation. So this is a topic that concerns me. You're now not at code for the sewer or the fan. Also, your statement that it's "very unlikely" that rainwater will get into your fan does not fill me with confidence.
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what is the easiest way too clean adhesive residue from glass? Stickers have left residue on some windows and old glass jars. I have typically used acetone to clean the residue but is there a better / easier way? <Q> Orange oil (limonene) based cleaners dissolve sticker residue as well or better than acetone. <S> Put some on, let it sit a bit, scrub a little with nylon,and wash off. <S> There are zillions of different brands of the stuff . <A> There are extremely effective window scraping devices, which ensure that you always maintain the correct blade angle and dont scratch the glass pane. <A> Use a new razor blade on the windows to scrape it off (blades like the kind you use in a extractable utility knife). <S> Angle <S> the blade at about 30 degrees up from laying flat against the glass and move in a scraping (rather than slicing) <S> motion - works great with paint too. <S> The old glass jars will be more difficult because of their shape... <S> I'd try putting them in a dish washer or possibly using Sherwin Williams 'Oops' product - Lowes sells the same thing labeled as 'Goof-Off'. <S> You might also use the 'Oops' product to keep your razor blade clean when working on the windows. <A> Goof-off works wonders and won't cause any discoloration with the glass. <S> Try to breathe as little of the vapors as you can as the smell is pretty potent. <A> WD-40 works well if used with caution. <S> Be careful of overspray or spray on a paper towel or fine steelwool and wipe on the glass. <S> Then use regular glass cleaner to remove the WD-40.
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also you can spray some simple window cleaner onto the glass while scraping.
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Is it safe to shut off cold water entering water heater? I have a pretty bad situation at my place. I have a leaky shower faucet which has gone from drips to a steady stream. I calculated the flow at .3 gallons per minute. My very old home has no private shut off valve for the water. I tried to shut the water off at the meter, but the valve was very tough and I didn't want to force it, break something, and be liable. I've noticed that the water coming out of the faucet is pretty hot. So, I tried shutting off the valve supplying cold water to my heater. The amount of water leaking from the bathroom faucet reduced significantly. Is it safe to simply shut off the cold water supply to my gas heater or will it cause problems with pressure? Will water come out of the pressure relief valve at some point? This is a temporary measure until I can have the water shut off by the water company or plumber. For now, I've left it on. <Q> If you have no separate shut off valve <S> you should wait till the local water authority can come and temporarily shut off the water at the meter (which is presumably near the street). <S> It would be a good idea to turn off the water heater during the time that the water supply is turned off. <S> After you turn the water supply back on the only issue you will have with the water heater is that some air could have fed back into the tank. <S> All you have to do is to open the hot water valves in several of your sinks and let them run for a short while until the water runs clear without any bubbles or spitting coming out of the faucets. <A> Last time our hot water sprang a leak, the plumber wisely put in a cutoff valve right in front of the replacement water heater. <S> We always turn it off when we go out of town (and the washing machine hose lines too), and never had an issue. <S> As others noted, it would be safest to cut the power to the water heater if turned off for an extended period. <A> Cant hurt the heater at all and no need to shut gas or electricity off to the HWS either as it's always full and only delivers you hot water by way of you opening hot tap and cold water entering bottom of tank forcing hot out. <S> While you have hot water turned off why dont you replace the shower washer too? <S> You can find out how simple to do on utube. <A> Normally but also depending on the age of the home there is a cold water shutoff behind the tub/shower handle assembly. <S> Remove the handle usually a Phillip screw holds it on. <S> Next remove round lock ring which is threaded on using channel lock pliers being careful not to deform the ring. <S> Remove large round silver plate. <S> You will see a round shutoff that has a slot for a standard screw driver. <S> Turn to the right until it stops. <S> Often you have to put pliers on the screw driver <S> handle to help get it started. <S> Turn off H/W at the H/W heater. <S> Water is now off and remove the nut that holds the valve cartridge in place. <S> Remove cartridge and repair or replace. <S> Reverse procedure when done. <S> There is variance on different brands but usually shutoff in the wall is the same. <S> You might notice the same shutoff at your washing machine which turns off cold water to machine the same way the tub shuts off. <S> I left out plumbing terms as they really don't matter. <S> Remember to turn H/West back on.
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I see no problem with shutting off the water supply to the water heater as a short term measure to curb the water waste from the leaking faucet in the shower.
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Can I block a skylight during summer without condensation? I have a small fixed skylight and figure that during winter it's no problem to block the tunnel at ceiling level as suggested by an answer to a similar diy.stackechange question . (The only difference is that I like the light the skylight provides, so rather than rigid foam I am thinking of using clear multiwall polycarbonate panels that provide an R factor of 2 or more.) The skylight is over a stairwell and difficult to get to so I'm thinking about leaving it in place year round. What would happen if I were to leave this in place during the warm months? It's dry and hot here in central CA in the summer, but would I still be at risk for condensation or mold on the drywall tunnel? <Q> If you do find condensation then you have a more significant problem that you would want to repair. <S> Here's why: <S> The drywall tunnel, being exposed to sunlight should always be hotter than your house, which means that relative humidity will be lower than in your house even if infiltrated with air from your house. <S> That also means that any condensation would only be against the insulation barrier at the bottom. <S> Unless you have other moisture infiltration into the tunnel that shouldn't happen. <A> I don't see a reason to block the skylight at all, especially if you like the light. <S> We have a fixed skylight in our house, and I don't recall ever seeing condensation form in or around it. <S> If it does, it may be installed poorly. <S> I would leave it and see how it does throughout the whole year. <S> We did install a shade in ours, but we rarely role it out. <A> I doubt if you'd have a condensation issue. <S> Condensation occurs when one side of the glass is warmer than the other side. <S> (I call it the coke bottle effect. <S> When you take a coke bottle out of the refrigerator, the exterior of the bottle will create condensation because of the warm room.) <S> However, in your case the Velux skylight has two panes of glass, so the interior warm side is "insulated" from the exterior side. <S> In addition, air movement will help reduce any condensation. <S> Do you have a forced air heating / air conditioning system? <S> If so, I'm sure there'd be no problem. <S> Have you seen the Velux website lately? <S> You can get "blackout shades" all the way down to "partial shades" that you can see through. <S> (Motorized shades would be great for your stairway location.) <S> There are federal tax credits for this too. <S> (It's on their website.)
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If you were located in an extremely cold climate then you may have a problem, but with such a temperate climate as central CA, the difference (inside to outside) is minimal and the thermal pane windows will not condense. We use Velux here too and we usually spec the skylights with motorized shades (sunscreens). If it does then you need to insulate the tunnel from inside the attic or else find the leak that's letting moisture into the tunnel.
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Which side of a sink should I install a garbage disposal in? I am about to purchase a garbage disposal to install myself. Our kitchen sink has a large, deep side, and a small, shallower side. Which side is more appropriate to install the disposal in? <Q> The small bowl is typically called a veggie bowl. <S> The idea is that you use the large sink for cleaning dishes or soaking <S> and then the other sink is available for prep usage, peeling etc. <S> So, the disposal would go on the small bowl. <A> I'm not aware of any official convention or rule that says which side should be used, that's just what I've noticed. <A> I always install into the smaller bowl. <S> (experienced but non-professional opinion) <S> If you think about it, the only thing that would prevent access to the disposal is a sink full of water. <S> I'd rather have the larger bowl available to fill up with water and still allow access to the disposal. <S> If the user wants one bowl of water and still use the disposal, it could be frustrating to have to fill the smaller bowl. <A> I would say that 90% of all sinks with 60/40 splits have the disposal located in the smaller of the two areas. <S> It only makes sense. <S> A lot of people say they want them on the side they wash dishes in. <S> I would be willing to bet that when they have theirs installed on the wash side that eventually they will be rinsing on that side instead of washing. <S> Again, it only makes sense to be able to use the disposal for that forgotten plate or leftovers that have been stored too long while doing dishes in the other sink. <A> I personally would install on the deeper side. <S> Due to food particles from hand washing done in the sink flowing to the disposal and easier clean up. <S> Just my opinion. <A> I know my answer is going to raise some eyebrows <S> but here it is... <S> If budget permits, I recommend installing 2 disposals, one on each side of the sink. <S> PROS:1) flexibility in which side of the sink you want to wash/rinse/prep food2) can use 2 different sizes (H/P) of disposals3) less wear-and-tear on each disposal CONS:1) reduces cabinet space underneath2) <S> more costly to buy/install 2 disposals, compared to 1 disposal <S> It's worked-out well for me and hope it helps others, too! <A> Placed in the big one allows to scrape food from big pots and pans directly to the GD.Small one let's you defrost turkeys, and other meats efficiently. <S> This setup works better if you have a dishwasher on the side of the small one. <S> InSinkErator tutorial video has it this way too https://youtu.be/b4weX2rnm24 <A> Personally, when I'm hand-washing things I use the semi-industrial approach of wash basin to rinse basin to drying rack. <S> That works besg with two full-depth basins, and if the dring rack is on the right (as mine is) <S> the right-hand basin is the rinse and left-handbasin is the wash. <S> The wash basin is the one that will have almost all the food scraps in it, hence if you're going to have a disposal <S> thst's the one which needs it most. <S> Others use other approaches, but my point is to consider what you're using each basin for and where the disposerable scraps will be. <A> I'd like it further away from the dishwasher which is on right side of the sinks. <S> Large sink is on the left, shallow one on the right. <S> There is bacteria in the gb <S> so I set it up on the left with soap dispenser and on the right is air gap and filtration water faucet. <S> Angie of San Diego <A> The disposal lowers the drain line several inches to go through the disposal itself. <S> Every inch of height can matter when getting the kitchen sink to drain properly. <S> Depending on your disposal and sink, installing on the deep sink could result in the output of the disposal being below the drain connection in the wall, which would result in water needing to flow uphill, and water doesn't flow very well in that direction. <S> This has the added benefit of more room under the disposal for storage.
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I've always seen the garbage disposal installed on the smaller bowl. I'd like it on the shallow side to give me the most range in height for the drain lines going out the disposal, through the trap, and into the wall. Don't think there is a rule per se on which is correct or incorrect.
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Are there websites to manage home improvement projects? Are there any websites where you can create an account to manage your home with things such as: Layout or floor planning Budgets, project logging Wiring plans I'm aware of FloorPlanner.com and Google Sketchup, but those are rather specific and I'm hoping for a more complete site to consolidate my home information/plans. <Q> I have its little brother Home Designer , which lets you do the design, visualization and parts lists, and gives you an upgrade credit to CA if you need more power. <A> There is very little market for this. <S> I've looked as well and have found both floorplanner and sketchup somewhat tedious to use. <S> I always resort to some chart paper and drawing floor plans to scale. <S> Google Docs are your friend here. <S> Most youtube videos aren't super helpful either as they have part-info. <S> I've seen a few great examples of this in Home Depot who have decent books for various projects. <S> Look around and browse them. <S> Alternative what I've found to be a great resource is second hand stores like GoodWill, Value Village etc. <S> even 10-20 year old home improvement books have great info. <A> Microsoft Visio is great for this and lays out its grids to whatever measurement you choose - for example each square can be 6 inches. <S> Also they have a ton of built in things that allow you to add lighting, doors, electrical, plumbing, code comments. <S> You can download even more for free or super cheap. <S> I have done a few floorplans and have used several products. <S> Visio works the best as long as it is 2D.
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There are products that do that Chief Architect comes to mind, though its an install-on-your-PC program, it does all you ask.
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How can I shave about 1/8" from a 8'x3/4"x1 1/2" strip of oak? I attached a 8' x 3/4" x 1 1/2" strip of red oak to the edge of multiple layers of plywood in order to make the plywood more rigid. Altogether, the three layers of plywood are 1 3/8" thick. This means that the wood strip is 1/8" too thick, so I need to shave that off. I came up with the idea to use my oscilating tool with wood blade, but this oak is tough to cut through. I've only been able to shave off about 5" before I gave up. In addition to being hard to cut, it burns the holy heck out of the wood to the point that I am wondering if it's actually going to catch fire or combust (although I do love the smell of burning wood). I tried a chisel and it's a lot easier, but it doesn't do a very clean and even job. I would like to shave off the edge of this so that it's flush to the surface of the plywood. The oscilating tool seems to do the best job, but at the risk of burning my house down. Feel free to edit this question's title if you think it's too localized. I also couldn't find any other good tags, so feel free to add those, too. <Q> Since the edge that you attached is 3/4 inch thick you would an edge cutting bit that has at least a 7/8 inch cutting edge. <S> The picture below shows this type of trimming operation in process. <S> Note that when you set out to do this for your project you will need a more powerful router than the small single hand sized unit shown in the picture. <S> Shown is a small router known as a laminate and veneer trimming router. <S> Also it can be tricky balancing a larger sized router along the 1 3/8 inch edge of your plywood pieces <S> so use care to be safe. <S> I also suggest that before using a router to spend some time researching online and become familiar with the proper cutting direction for router use and to learn about some jigging possibilities that you can use to help stabilize the router base by clamping on another parallel edge of wood or plywood that is spaced away from the cut piece by more than the width of the router bit. <S> The picture below shows one type of jig clamped in place to provide more support for the router during an edge trimming operation. <A> The traditional tool is a block plane. <S> This is basically a chisel protruding through a smooth flat base that solves the evenness problem. <S> A variation on that is a tool like a Sureform. <S> This is a hand tool that has numerous small chisel-like edges that shaves of curls of wood. <S> In either case, once ytou have removed most of the stock, you can finish the edge and get it smooth with the plywood by using a hand sanding block or an orbital power sander. <S> All of these approaches are a but slower and more work than a router, but do not require specialty tools (and give the special satisfaction that comes with working on wood by hand). <A> This can't be done on the table saw? <S> Set the fence to the wide side and take off the 1/8" <A> You can also use a band saw. <S> Just set it to 1/8" and go really slow :'( <A> In case anyone was wondering how long this would take with sand paper only.. <S> I had to remove a 1/8" layer from a piece of 18"x1"x1" pine and it took me about half an hour with 60 grit paper. <S> I drew a line and used a flat piece of scrap wood for a sanding block so it came out level enough for what I needed. <S> However, I had to take multiple breaks and change my shirt afterwards. <S> Definitely should've just picked up a block plane. <S> ¯_(ツ)_/¯ <A> I had to take about 1/32” off of the end of a red oak riser. <S> Stock 3/8”x 6 1/2” x 34 1/2” <S> - I used my hand saw angled at about 5 degrees to the work, taking small strokes it took about 15 minutes and a little sanding with 100 grit sandpaper. <S> I have twelve of these to do so <S> I hope my sawing becomes more precise.
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The tool of choice for this type of shaving operation is a router with a ball bearing edge cutting bit.
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What could cause my radiators to go cold when the hot water is turned on? When only heating is selected on my program timer the radiators all work fine and are hot. But when both heating and hot water are on the water gets hot but all the radiators go cold. When the hot water is up to temperature on the tank thermostat the radiators still don't get hot until I turn the heating off then the hot water off then on and off again. Then turn the heating on again and it works OK. I have a 3 position zone valve and this makes a banging noise when the water is first turned on. Could it be the valve that is faulty because I have had to replace it twice now in the past 3 years. The current one is about 13 months old. Or could it be the pump that's the problem? <Q> It does sound likely that the 3 position zone valve is the problem, or likely more accurately the actuator that controls the valve is the problem. <S> To check that it is the actuator: remove the actuator from the valve body (there's normally a button to press which releases it), and then turn the heating on/off and the hot water on/off and see how the actuator moves - does it go into three different positions? <S> (NB, the total rotation from all-heating to all-hotwater is a lot less than you'd probably expect; something like 40 degrees if I remember correctly.) <S> Possible faults with the 3 position zone valve (off the top of my head): <S> If you've previously replaced the valve (including, I assume, the actuator), and wired up the new actuator however the old one was wired, then this might be the problem. <S> The valve itself is gunked up / not moving freely. <S> A symptom of this would be that when the actuator is removed from the body it rotates as expected, but then when replaced onto the body it stops moving. <S> Perhaps if you've previously replaced the actuator but not the valve body, this could be the problem. <S> One of the springs in the actuator has come loose/broken. <S> The actuator relies on springs to return the valve to the default position when unpowered. <S> Normally the default position is hot water though, so this would be more likely to be the problem if it you were getting heating but no hot water. <S> If this is the problem you'll probably need to replace the actuator. <S> Or if this is happening repeatedly, buy a better quality valve/actuator! <A> Do you have an indirectly-heated hot water tank, with hot water supplied by the same boiler that heats the house? <S> If so, it's fairly common for the water tank to take priority, on the theory that fewer people scream about losing a degree or two in the house than scream about their shower going cold. <A> I'm assuming the whole system was working well in the past. <S> You need to determine what has changed or what event occurred such that afterwards, the initial problem was noticed. <S> I have had capacitors and other electrical or electronic components go bad and when I trace back with input from the customer on what event had occurred that afterward the problem was noticed, a lot of times they mentioned a severe thunderstorm. <S> Even if you think the house and all the houses circuitry is well grounded, a strong lightning strike nearby can float the ground potential for a fraction of a second to several seconds and fry circuits that are active at that time. <S> It is always a prudent measure to unplug everything and shut down all electrical circuits and HVAC before a thunderstorm. <S> If the 3 way valve has been replaced in less than a year and the newer one after inspection has also gone bad, then there is another factor that is causing the 3 way valve to go bad. <S> I believe the 3 way valve actuator is replaced with the 3 way valve as one unit. <S> If the actuator is determined to be bad then the problem probably stems from the electrical and or electronic control circuitry that controls the actuator. <S> When you disconnect the actuator, check the impedance at the connection wires for shorts or open circuit if it is a passive electrical control system, meaning the actuator is not controlled electronically from a micro-controller (micro-computer) based circuit board. <S> If the actuator is directly connected to a IC (integrated circuit) based circuit board, you need to contact the manufacturer for troubleshooting and replacement. <S> If the actuator and the controlling circuitry are good, but the 3 way valve itself is bad <S> then the problem could be extremely dirty or caustic or acidic working fluid. <S> When was the last time you flushed and cleaned the entire system? <S> Did you properly put treatment chemicals into the working fluid?
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The actuator isn't wired in correctly and so isn't receiving the correct signals.
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How do I open a padlock after it has frozen? I do some maintenance on the neighborhood ice-skating rink. To control the lights, there is an outside electrical panel that is locked with a padlock. This padlock always gets frozen. Every time I need to mess with the light controls, I have a hard time trying to even get the key in, then I cannot even turn it. The only solution I have found so far is to heat it up with my bare hands, which risks frostbite. That was sustainable when the weather was good, but the temperature is going down to -25 Celsius (-13 Fahrenheit) this week. Is there a easier way to unfreeze it? <Q> Get some lock deicer/lubricant. <S> It's sold specifically for this and contains graphite and methanol. <S> Shake well before applying. <S> The methanol removes water and oil from the lock mechanism and leaves behind graphite well flooded through every nook and cranny in the device. <S> You use graphite because it's a dry lubricant and unlike oil, it doesn't attract dirt or gum up like petroleum lubricants. <A> You should use a Zippo or gas lighter -- the ones with the blue flames. <S> It will super-heat <S> the lock and then you can put the key in. <A> grab a bowl of hot beverage and let it steam on it a bit for a quick solution (any temporary heat source will do, like a hot pack) for a more permanent solution take the lock inside and dry it out in rice like you would drowned electronics to get the lingering moisture out and then lubricate it with some penetrative oil so much that water can't get in to seize up the mechanism again to prevent further seize <S> ups don't let water enter it again; ensure it isn't exposed to rain or snow and seal of the keyhole with a plastic bag over the lock <A> Alcohol did it just now for me , in MO and 6 degrees snow and ice during the night needed to get into my trailer ( I drive a truck . <S> 1.00 and done <A> Here are a few other methods that can be used to heat the lock and melt whatever is frozen inside of the lock and preventing your key from entering and turning properly: A cigar lighter or a soldering/welding torch <S> A heat gun <S> A cordless hairdryer <S> It's worth a shot considering it's free. <S> Don't burn yourself. <S> Obviously, you should mindful not to burn down whatever the lock is attached due to use of excessive heat --- especially while using a torch. <S> The flame is extremely hot and will melt whatever is frozen inside of the lock very quickly. <S> Your padlock will be fine unless you decide to apply the flame for a ridiculously long period of time. <S> Apply for a FEW SECONDS at a time only. <A> I heat the key with a butane lighter, and put the key in the keyhole. <S> It takes 2-4 cycles of re-heating but the hot key melts the ice and frees up the lock. <S> I have a lock in a very wet/cold/snowy environment and have tried several ways including graphite, synthetic oil, and even chain lube for bike chains, and ultimately the amount of water the lock is exposed to washes out everything sooner or later. <S> Plus with most lubes, once they are placed they will run down the lock and make it messy to handle. <S> I may try wrapping the lock in shrink wrap to better protect it against rain infiltration... <A> I warmed the key on the space heater then use it to warm the lock and it opens. <A> I used a hot water bottle to defrost my garage door lock. <A> Blow torch will work. <S> I have to use one regularly at my work. <A> Isopropyl alcohol in the key hole and holes of shackle
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Boiling hot/warm water may also be used to melt the frozen contents of the lock, but has the potential to make the problem worse since it will freeze.
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Should I let pressure treated lumber dry before building with it? I bought some treated 2x4's from Lowes, and it was fairly wet and heavy. I went ahead and built a firewood rack, but screwing into it releases a lot of water. It got me thinking, is it better to let the wood dry out a while before building with it? This project is done, but if I was going to use treated wood in the future, should I buy some ahead of time and let is sit outside for a few weeks? <Q> Unless you have a kiln to dry wood in, drying wood in a standard environment takes a really long time (if you buy firewood, usually you want ~2yr old wood!). <S> I don't know that leaving it out for a couple weeks would dry it if it were so saturated that there is visible water coming out of it. <S> It is recommended to let wood used for hardwoods sit a couple weeks to get accustomed to the environment as far as humidity goes, but it is not being dried any further. <S> I would recommend that you find a better source of wood that is dried properly. <S> You also want to carefully select your wood, it might be that you just got a bad piece <S> some how. <S> For outdoor projects, instead of PT lumber you might opt to try a wood like cedar which naturally resists the elements pretty well. <A> PT wood will warp if you let it sit. <S> It would have to be in an ultra controlled environment to dry and not warp horribly. <A> +1 on the stainless fasteners. <S> TheSean, you're actually working with that pressure-treated lumber in its IDEAL condition for working. <S> After it dries, it'll become much much harder & more prone to splitting. <S> Right now it's very resilient, and every fastener you drive into it "wet" will become tighter as the wood dries out. <S> Too, dried PT lumber will give you the most painful splinters you'll ever get from any wood. <S> Wet, it's much less likely to give you splinters. <A> Wet wood is common when considering the PT stuff. <S> Although not as easy to find, but there is such a thing as KDAT wood (kiln dried after treatment). <S> You should consider the project and for things that will be exposed to the weather or high humidity <S> , wet wood is OK, just heavy to work with. <S> Two years of drying would only be required if you are building fine furniture, and hopefully you're not using Pressure treated stuff for that. <S> In building construction, there are times when you want to minimize the shrinkage (primarily in board width) so there are not excessive gaps. <S> My personal experience is that a 2x6 may shrink 3/16" to 1/4" in width, leaving a considerable gap once dried. <S> If the project under consideration will suffer with that kind of gap, store the wood for a couple of months on a level surface using "stickers" to allow air flow. <S> I have weighted and clamped stacks of wood in attempt to keep the warping to a minimum. <A> All PT lumber comes wet. <S> They put it under pressure and force chemicals into it. <S> Then they palletize it tightly so it won't warp in transit and ship it. <S> I usually lay the boards out on a flat surface stacked up in criss cross layers with air space between each board. <S> I put some cinder blocks on top to keep the top layers from warping. <S> In the summer in Oklahoma they dry and shrink n a couple of weeks. <S> I only do this on boards where I care about the appearance. <S> If you put deck boards in wet you are supposed to put them on pushed completely t <S> and then they will shrink about 1/4" in width. <S> However when the shrink they tend to split along the grain where the screws are because the screws won't let the board shrink so it splits instead. <S> If the deck boards do warp before installing you can use a couple of wedges to force them straight <S> but it is a PITA. <A> Most likely you got wood that had sat out in the weather and been rained on. <S> Since this is pressure-treated wood it will be fine. <S> Agreed on using only hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners and hardware; the less-toxic chemicals now used for pressure-treating wood <S> are unfortunately more corrosive to metal. <S> Something I've done under e.g. a gate latch that was only electro-galvanized and had rusted in contact with the previous PT gate wood <S> is (1) wire-brushed and painted that side and (2) put a piece of tar paper between the metal and the wood to reduce corrosion. <S> Preferable to avoid trapping moisture next to the metal though, maybe spacers next time. <A> Yes, let it dry. <S> Working with wet treated wood is a very bad idea unless you like shrinkage, cracks, gaps, squeaks, etc. <S> Let your framing and decking dry out first. <S> Here in Oregon that means buy the wood and store it in a DRY place. <S> Building with wet wood only causes issue later. <A> I buy p t lumber ahead of time, and stack it with spacers in between in my garage. <S> stain will penetrate much better. <S> infact staining can be done before building. <S> Doinng it anyother way, would be like mixing your stain with water. <A> Correct me if I’m wrong, <S> I believe “Fine” is to proceed with caution. <S> There are many variables to consider, and I am in agreement. <S> - weather,climate pattern in region- climate conditions when building and being stored - frequency of use for the structural design- longevity - type of wood, quality of wood
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The answer is simply No.
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How can I protect my (engineered) hardwood floor from scratching? I have engineered hardwood that scratches easily (be it from furniture being slid on it, a kid playing with hard toys on it, or simply from regular wear and tear). We currently mitigate the scratching by coloring the wood with some Old English. However, we would like to treat the floor with something to keep it from scratching so easily going forward. Unlike, this question our wood is relatively new, is not brittle and dull, and definitely does not splinter. I am also not looking for spot treatment, I am open to something that I do to the entire floor. I read of a few possibilities, that I'll put here for discussion. Would oil or water based polyurethane work? Would applying non-slip wax do the trick? What about some type of varnish? Note, the idea would be to avoid having to sand down and refinish the floors, but if thats my only option, please say so. The wood layer is thick enough that it could be refinished if need be. <Q> I really doubt you can sand your floors. <S> Some engineered floors can be but this is a very small percent. <S> And this would be a diy because pros won't want to be responsible for the thin top layer sanding through. <S> One of the things I have found with engineered hardwood is the clear coat varies drastically from different types. <S> I have tested a lot and some scratch by pushing a penny across it <S> and others I have had to stab full force with a screwdriver. <S> I am guessing yours scratches with a penny. <S> So the only cost effective thing that would definitely help would be to add a couple layers of poly. <S> You may need several layers. <S> http://www.clarkeus.com/clarkerental/~/media/029C45196DC6413FAC0CCF1922BD1BFA.ashx <A> But if the wood itself is getting scratched or marred, the cause of the scratching has to be eliminated. <A> If you refinish your engineered floor chances are you will void whatever warranty if any that came with it. <S> I doubt that a refinishing would provide you with the look you are going for or even add much strength to the finish itself. <S> Most engineered hardwood floors have a UV curred finish on them which allows it to be much more durable. <S> Something you apply yourself isn't going to be as good as what you already have on the floor most likely. <S> Treat the disease not the symptom. <S> In other words eliminate what is scratching your floor through whatever means available. <S> Or change it to a more durable flooring such as Bamboo. <S> Which will scratch also but not as easily as hardwood in most cases. <A> Remove flooring and put in wood plank ceramic tile, with epoxy grout.
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If it is the finish that is scratching, choosing a more durable finish and applying several layers would be the closest to bees knees.
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How can I verify that the protective earth/ground is separate from the neutral wire in an electrical AC installation? It's easy to verify which wire is the phase without relying on wire colors. But I'm not sure if I'm able to determine which wire is the ground and which is the neutral. I have heard that using a multimeter it will show a higher voltage between the phase and the neutral than between the phase and the ground. Is that method correct? Is there any other way to determine if the wire colors are correct and the installation was done properly? <Q> Usually your central heating and your water piping is grounded by regulation. <S> Your ground wire shouldn't have any potential differerce with these installations (as there shouldn't be any current flowing through it), whereas neutral may carry a few volts (because of current elsewhere in the system lifting potential). <S> If your installation is behind a residual-current device and you have the live wire identified, another way to figure out neutral and earth is connecting a 25W lightbulb. <S> If the bulb lights up you're using neutral, if the residual-current device trips, then you used earth. <S> Of course if you don't trust wiring or its colors, the only way to go is to pull the existing wires out of the pipes an do a proper re-wiring according to national regulations. <A> You've asked three related but not identical questions here which makes it hard to figure out what your real concern is and how to solve it. <S> is the safety ground separate from neutral. <S> how to identify and distinguish the safety ground from neutral. <S> is the voltage between hot and neutral greater than hot and safety ground under load. <S> The first two questions have a common issue which is whether and where the safety ground is connected to neutral. <S> I will answer assuming a US installation. <S> For your first question: Safety ground and neutral are supposed to be tied together in one and only one location, the main service panel. <S> Sometimes you see receptacles where the receptacle's neutral and safety ground are both connected to the circuit's neutral because the house was wired without a safety ground. <S> If you are trying to detect this, a visual inspection of the receptacle's wiring is the most reliable method. <S> Sometimes you see houses with incorrectly wired subpanels. <S> In a subpanel, safety ground and neutral are required to be separated. <S> Visual inspection is the best way to verify this also. <S> For your 2nd question: maple_shaft's answer is good with one exception. <S> The problem is he uses the ideal wire model where there is no wire resistance. <S> In fact, 14 gauge wire has a resistance of about 0.25 ohms per 100 feet. <S> Assuming the circuit is wired correctly and safety ground is bonded to neutral only at the main panel, <S> a heavy load like a hair dryer will generate enough voltage drop across neutral from the load to the main panel to be easily measured. <S> I personally verified this ten minutes ago. <S> For example, 15 amps will generate a voltage drop of 3.75 volts over a 100 foot neutral. <S> If you put your voltmeter between safety ground and neutral at the same receptacle as the load, you will see this 3.75 voltage drop. <S> For your 3rd question: <S> Under a heavy load, the voltage between hot and neutral will be LESS than the voltage between hot and the safety ground. <S> In the above example, there will be 3.75 volts less. <A> There really is no way to tell the difference from the point of the load, because the ground and neutral are bonded together at the service entrance. <S> The only real way to be sure is to temporarily disconnect the neutral for the circuit in question at the distribution panel and verify that there is now no voltage between line and neutral at the load, while there's still voltage between line and ground. <A> The neutral and ground wires should conduct the same voltage potential from the phase in a proper installation. <S> Also in a proper installation the neutral and ground should show continuity on a multimeter because the neutral and ground blocks should be connected by a wire at the breaker box. <S> In a standard installation, the ground should either be green or bare. <S> If you are still unsure then locate the breaker for that circuit and find the wire that leads to it. <S> You should see the sheathed wire from that line go to the neutral block, and the bare wire go to the ground block. <S> Then inspect all of the receptacles and wired devices on that circuit to make sure that neutrals are connected to neutrals and bare wires are connected to bare wires. <S> In this way you can ensure that everything on that circuit was connected correctly and that they didn't do something foolish like wire a ground to a receptacles neutral or connect neutrals and grounds at the box.
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The neutral is the sheathed wire that has continuity with the ground wire (NOTE: when testing continuity, turn power off on that circuit just in case!)
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How to replace wire next to another wire? Currently I have, courtesy of the last owner, 3 wires running to the "socket" behind my TV. It's a coax and 2 audio cables (image below), and they go to the fuse box/meter box in the hallway. . I'm not sure how they run, but at least: in the wall they go up, through the ceiling (probably some turns there), and then back down into said box. The yellow PVC tube they run trough is about 1.5cm in diameter (also see below). Now I don't need an audio cable there at the moment, but I DO need network. I have a "wire pulling spring" (not sure that's the correct term). I figured my options are: Attach the spring to one or all wires, pull everything out, pull everything I need back with the spring Attach new wire to audio wires and pull the audio out and the network in with one action Attach the spring to the audio wire, pull the spring in and the audio out in one go, then pull the network in with the wire pulling spring. Option 2 and 3 mean that if I do get stuck, I won't be in a worse situation: the coax is still there. On the other hand, I imagine failure is easier if you don't pull out all the wires. My question is of course: is there a dead-give-away best method, or are there options/considerations I didn't account for that might provide a 4th way or at least pick a certain winner of these three? (As an added bonus I wouldn't mind some help or links to the best way to attach springs/wires to other wires for these purposes, but that's kinda a seperate thing.) <Q> I would approach it first by trying to pull the network cable through with one of the audio wires. <S> Strip the covering from about 6 inches/10cm of the network cable and separate the conductors in the audio cable about the same distance. <S> Put the two cables end-to-end with the stripped parts overlapping and fold half of each cable back around the other and use electrical table to tape down flat to the original cable (folding the full cable may make your joint thicker and more likely to catch on the other wires in the conduit). <S> Tape the remaining conductors down flat to the opposite cable <S> (I adjust how I do this for the flattest seam with the specific cable being pulled). <S> Now, see if you call pull that one cable through. <S> If not, you may need to pull all three out, in which case I would pull a "pull string" rather than a fish tape -- electricians use a synthetic string that is lightweight but slippery -- and then pull the wires you do want back through. <S> If you have access to the attic, you should check to see if the conduit is continuous or if you will need to make one pull into the attic and a separate one back down. <S> Depending on the length of the run, you may also want to look into wire lube that eases the effort to pull them through the conduit. <A> I have checked @tomG 's answer as accepted, as that seems the best advice. <S> I will tell what I actually did, and how it worked out. <S> I connected the network to the audio wire, and pulled it about halfway trough. <S> Then the audio cable broke. <S> Instead of removing everything and switch a fish tape, I pulled (and pushed!) <S> a pulling wire with the remaining audio cable, leaving the coax in place (needed holding down though :) ) <S> Pulled the network with the wire. <S> And done. <S> I should've probably removed all the cables, but this seemed to work and felt like less risk of damaging the coax. <S> In the end I might have broken the second audio wire as well, and the coax doesn't connect as nice to the pulling wire, so that might have been an issue :) <A> Get out your shop vac, and use it to apply suction to one end of the conduit. <S> Tie a small piece of paper (say, half the size of the conduit) to a piece of string, and feed it into the other end of the conduit. <S> The last time I did this, I pulled a string through 75' of conduit in about 15 seconds. <A> When I moved into my house a few years back I used one of the existing coax runs to pull cat5 behind my tv. <S> I just stripped the insulation from both cables, twisted the copper together, and then taped them so they wouldn't snag. <S> It pulled through fairly easily. <A> Best part of your situation: You have an unneeded/undesired cable in place and a new cable you want in that position. <S> As mentioned by Josh and Tom, your best and easiest solution is to attach the new cable to one end of the old speaker wire and pull it right through. <S> I would add that you should also attach a pull string with the new network cable so you can pull both on the same action unless space is extremely tight. <S> Then you'll have your new cord plus a pull string that will serve you for any future changes (or if you just want to put that speaker wire back). <S> Be sure to tie a washer <S> (nylon/plastic is best) <S> that is larger than the conduit to both ends of the pull string to prevent pulling it out before you're good any ready. <S> In my 10 years installing communication equipment (mostly in old or ancient Gov't buildings) nothing makes you happier than to open a panel or junction box and see a pull string dangling there. <S> They'll save you (or the next guy) <S> a ton of work in the future, or should I say, it could have saved you all this work
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Use this string as a pull string to pull back in the cables that you want. There's a really simple solution for this since you have conduit. Pull all of the existing wires out.
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What water:cement:sand ratio gives the strongest mortar? A typical mortar mix ratio is 1 cement : 3 sand. But what is the water ratio? Is it 0.5:1:3? Would a 0.5:1:2 ratio be a stronger mortar? Our next door neighbor has a dog that digs like a pro. The dog somehow manages to dig underneath some parts of our wire fence netting and get through. So I have thought of filling the holes with mortar. I previously tried to fill the holes with concrete made with 0.5 water : 1 cement : 2 sand : 3 gravel, but the mix I made easily crumbled apart. Could that be because I bought gravel made of 0.5inch stones? <Q> The less water the better, to a point. <S> Excess water will weaken the mix. <S> At some point in the other direction, there is not enough water for the hydration process(around <S> 0.25:1 water:cement). <S> In general though, to have a workable mix, there will be enough water for hydration. <S> Use as little water as possible to make a workable mix, around 0.45:1 is fine. <S> Don't use mortar for bulk fill, it's a waste of cement. <S> The gravel in concrete is just filler, saving cement. <S> The concrete you mixed is sort of the standard DIY ratio, I don't know why it didn't work. <S> While 0.5" gravel is a bit small, it can't be the reason for crumbling. <S> Perhaps the cement was old? <S> It may have absorbed enough humidity to partially hydrate, but not so much that it bound together. <A> It is virtually impossible to specify the proportion of water in a concrete mix due to the wide range of moisture content in the sand used, Regarding "old" cement powder - if kept completely and utterly dry it will work fine after literally years. <S> The only downside of using old cement is that the Chromium additives change from relatively harmless to relatively harmful. <S> In my opinion if proper precautions are taken (e.g. respiratory and skin protection) this should not be a problem. <S> Best mix to fill up these holes would be 1:4 ratio by volume cement to sand/ballast mix (20mm stones in the ballast). <S> The total volume of cement in each hole must be at least 1 litre. <A> The correct mixing ratio would be 1:1.5:1 — 1 cement : 1.5 sand : 1 gravel stones with 0.4 water. <S> If you use more water it will leave holes (porosity of the mortar), and if you use less water, it will not lead to hydration. <A> You're talking about concrete, not mortar. <S> Mortar is used to stick things together, not stand alone. <S> The same by volume ( ie. buckets) is a good ratio as well, 1/2 to 1 to 3 to 3 (or a little less water- <S> too much water weakens the concrete, and there will always be some water content in the sand). <S> Make sure you have Portland Cement, not mortar mix or some other pre-mixed product. <S> Adding your ratios to a pre-mix would greatly reduce the cement content, resulting in a disaster such as you described. <S> For a stronger mix, increase the cement a bit, and reduce the sand. <A> Not exactly sure why your original mix failed <S> but yes, you're trying to make concrete, (mortar is a no gravel finer mix for laying brick, block and stone, plus rendering finishes etc. <S> in layers usually no more than 1/2" or 13mm thick) <S> It's possible that it was too thin? <S> On a really solid base you might just get away with 2" (50mm) <S> but really 3" (75mm) is a 'minimum', with 4" (100mm) being the 'norm'. <S> Right then concrete. <S> A 'standard' mix if there is such a thing, is 1:2:4 which is one cement, 2 sharp/washed sand and 4 gravel/crushed stone. <S> This is fine for general concreting jobs like pathways, floor slabs etc. <S> often in thicknesses from around 3" up to 6" (75mm to 150mm). <S> Thicker concrete for things like foundations and larger mass concrete is usually a 'weaker' mix of 1:3:6 which is one cement, 3 sharp/washed sand and 6 gravel/crushed stone. <S> In all concrete just enough water should be added until the mix folds nicely off the paddles/tines inside the mixer. <S> If the paddles run straight through the mix <S> it's too wet, if it crumbles it's borderline too dry. <S> Dry concrete will dry very strong but it needs careful placing and compacting/agitating to get rid of any air in the mix. <S> Technically as someone else said earlier, there only needs to be enough water in the mix to hydrate all the cement particles but in practice bung enough in until you get a nice workable product that doesn't slop but doesn't heap up in crumbly piles either. <S> These two mixes cover the vast majority of concreting works in domestic construction (in the UK at least). <A> Mortar mix:1/2 of a 94lb bag portland cement 1/4 of a 50lb bag type S lime 14 shovels Masonry sand <S> Aprox. <S> 3 to 4 gallons water this depends on the thickness that you prefer for the application.
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A ratio by weight of 0.5 water, 1 cement, 3 sand, and 3 gravel should make a fine concrete, although a little less water (0.4 by weight) would make stronger concrete.
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What should I do with a shallow closet? My guest bedroom has an extra shallow closet (15 inches deep). This is too narrow for a hanger, so clothes hung on the rod end up being angled, rubbing against the back wall and the door, etc. What can I do with this thing? It needs to remain a closet, but I need an alternate method to hang clothes. I've thought about trying to rotate the rod. Perhaps I could hang two rods somehow so they go from front-to-back rather than from side-to-side? But, how could I support the door-side end? Well, I could hang it from the shelf somehow. The shelf is fairly sturdy. Any ideas on how to mount such a rod? Or other ideas on how to refurb the closet? <Q> The left and right bar ran between the front and back walls (the closet had a swinging door in the middle, not a full-width sliding door), and the middle bar's front end was suspended from the shelf above by a triangular wooden bracket (perpendicular to the bar). <S> The middle bar was half the depth of the closet, so you could walk in and reach the side bars easily. <S> Note that the shelf was supported by wooden rails fastened to the wall on three sides, not just shelf brackets on the back wall; the whole system felt quite solid. <S> I think a design like that would work very well for the closet you describe, and all of the parts were wood, so they could easily be made to fit. <S> If you are interested then I could make a drawing of the design as I remember it, or perhaps even arrange for a photograph. <A> One thing that instantly came to mind was this: I bought one from Goodwill years ago, the top on mine swivels <S> but then you would have to take it out or fight it to get to the other side. <S> I also found this: This model specifically seems to be for over the door mounting <S> but I bet you find a flush mount one or install a 2x4 in the back of the closest as a rail to support them. <S> Image Sources: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-New-Folding-Multi-function-Magic-Hangers-Clothes-Rack-/190622930311?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D180899714769%26ps%3D54 <S> http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/HONEYCANDO-OvertheDoor-Folding-Hanger-Holder-15V409 <A> I have an antique chifforobe that is only 16" deep. <S> I purchased 'petite' or kids hangers from Amazon. <S> they are 14" wide and big enough to hold most adult clothing. <S> Bonus, they are very thin and flocked so that your clothes won't slip off. <A> Why not use slide out closet bars such as <S> this one <S> It is mounted under the shelf.
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I had a closet once that wasn't particularly shallow, but it did have 3 closet bars mounted front-to-back, and I found the multiple bars very convenient for organizing my clothes.
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How can I make wooden stairs slip-proof? My wife loves the idea of removing our stair carpet and putting bold/bright wallpaper on the vertical faces (risers)... ...but we're concerned that the horizontal parts (treads) would be much more slippery as plain wood, compared to carpet. With a 4yr old in the house, and my wife being so accident-prone, I think we need some sort of anti-slip. I am not sure if it is possible to cover every single tread with a seperate piece of carpet. It might be difficult to secure the outer edge under the lip. Perhaps paint each step, and sprinkle on sand/sugar whilst still wet? This would leave a textured surface, quite rough. Perhaps glue thin strips of rubber along each tread? <Q> A few options. <S> 1 - Grip/tread tape (easy/cheap but maybe ugly): 2 - Rubber treads (modern/industrial look): 3 - 'tread/grip' additive for paint (easiest to 'blend in' to decor): <S> 3b - DIY 'tread/grip' additive: <A> I visited a house last week that had 4 grooves routed in each tread. <S> It looked really good and definitely helped with your foot slipping. <S> Also it is a better long term answer than a non skid paint. <A> There are web sites like SlipDoctors & Noskid that offer a clear spray that has non slip properties. <A> Don't use a furniture finish formulation, floor finish formulations already include items that provide for a higher traction finish. <S> Adding grit is the most common solution for increasing traction; but even bothering to add grit is rare. <S> There are also marine grits meant to be mixed with your existing paints. <S> Since lots of people tend to go barefoot on their boats, marine grit additives tend to be less abrasive (and youre feet will thank you). <S> What is your rise and run? <S> Often a short run will have far more impact in determining if you will slip down the stairs. <S> The grip / tread tape mentioned above also has clear plastic variants. <S> A bit more aesthetically pleasing than the black item pictured; however, any kind of adhesive backed item is gong to ruin a finish below it and have a limited lifespan (determined by the adhesive backing, the cleanliness of the step prior to application, and humidity). <S> Bare feet and tennis shoes tend to do well on wood stairs, it is the occasionally stocking footed person (or rarely the leather soled shoes) that are really going to give concern. <A> I like the picture where the stairs are designed as books, what you're suggesting will turn a staircase into a real feature. <S> But you have to think about safety first before anything else. <S> I'd install non-slip tread nosings as paints, coatings and tape will wear quickly. <A> I am researching to solve this problem. <S> I have come across Skid Guard 100 paint, rubber treads, black sandy tape, and now a clear tape that goes at the edge of the tread that is textured with 2 choices of grit and usually lasts 5 yrs. <S> they say. <S> At present we have a textured colored rubber runner that came from Sears years ago <S> and it is wearing out <S> and it is slippery when wet and a bear to scrub and keep the grooves clean. <S> I can't find another runner. <S> So we are going to remove it, paint steps or replace the treads. <S> May use the idea of routing grooves <S> , I like that idea except I can see dirt catching in there <S> and it not feeling good on our stockinged feet (we don't wear shoes indoors). <S> Also we had a cat who leaves hair on the steps. <S> So when we have new treads or new paint we are going to use the textured transparent tape on the tread edges.
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If you do opt to add grit, look into "Interdeck No Skid" which is a marine supply grit additive.
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Is it wrong to connect multiple J-bends (traps) together? My tenants recently told me that they have constant clogging problems with their bathroom sink and had me come take a look at it. I found the following 3-trap configuration: This was done because the sink is too far to the right for it to mate with the drain in the wall via a standard p-trap configuration. This seems like the wrong solution to me (it was done by a (non-plumber) contractor when I was living out of state). A guy in the plumbing section at Home Depot didn't like it either and suspected that it would lead to clogs. I replaced two of the traps with one of those flexible pipes and was able to make the connection with the remaining trap being rotated slightly - not ideal, but I'd suppose that two (roughly) 45˚ bends are better than what was there previously. There seemed to be no alternative way to connect the sink to the drain given the 1-1/4" pipes and fittings available at HD. My Questions: Is it fair to say what was there before was incorrect and was contributing to the frequent clogging problem? What is the "right" way to solve this plumbing problem? <Q> Much too much up and down! <S> You want a P trap with an additional angled connector toward the wall. <S> The first down and up from the sink drain is correct. <S> That is the P trap. <S> It should end with a horizontal leg pointing toward the wall (an L shaped piece). <S> This will not line up with the opening in the wall because the drain is offset. <S> Therefor that leg will run a distance and then will use an angle to bend it back toward the wall. <S> A 45 degree angle would be better (the less sharp the bend, the less likely to stop up). <S> However it may be hard to fine a 45 degree slip joint elbow. <S> You could use standard pipes and elbows, but these would require glued joints rather than slip joints. <S> Finally there should be a straight run from the angled connector to the wall connection. <S> You can rotate the P part of the trap so the L leg coming off the P <S> is parallel to the wall (assuming you are using the 90 degree elbow; if not, adjust accordingly). <S> Then the elbow turns the drain toward the wall. <S> Another horizontal run carries the drain back to the wall. <S> You need to measure the length of the horizontal leg of the P and the length of the connecting run to the wall; be sure to allow for the sections embedded in the elbow and trim each accordingly. <S> Assemble. <S> It is easier done than described. <A> LOL, yes that is incorrect! <S> The two trap version (S trap) used to be legal, but no more. <S> The "snake trap"(??) was never legal. <S> It is certainly more prone to clogging, but I'll wager there are other contributing factors. <S> Correct fix. <S> Discard the other two traps. <S> Remove the trap arm adapter at the wall. <S> Install a flat 45 degree ell on the pipe in the wall such that the ell outlet is pointing to the sink trap. <S> Add a short length of pipe to the ell, then a trap arm adapter. <S> Reinstall the trap arm to the adapter and connect the downward facing part to the single trap. <S> Check for leaks. <A> You need to start from the tapped fitting using a 2" 45' fitting if it's a sink, or a 11/2" 45' fitting if it's a vanity, then trap arm, then P-trap (depends on size), then a tubular extension, then a tail piece. <S> You are done! <S> If you have multiple sinks in the kitchen only , with outlet drains separated no more than 30", place the one trap in the center then take tubular elbows from the outlets to a tubular tee then to the trap. <S> Multiple sinks to a single trap is not valid for vanity or bathroom sinks. <A> Note: Plumbing code also prohibits this, for example:California Plumbing Code 1004.1 <S> “No fixture shall be double trapped.” <S> Though a second vent could make the "problem" go away. <A> Google s-trap, this is a snake trap or s trap. <S> The water will get sucked out of the ptrap allowing gases to come back into the home which would be very noticeable <S> & yes it will be more prone to clogs but the gases are the main thing. <S> Ptraps must have fluid in them or sewer gases come back through to the home. <S> EVERY drain needs a ptrap under it and a vent to give the prap air, if an S trap is installed down flow of the ptrap after the vent it may suck the water out of the ptrap.
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Keep the first trap out of the sink and the last arm going to the wall. You could use a right angled slip joint connector (running horizontally).
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How can I shut off circuits when I have a generator with an automatic transfer switch? We had professionals install a generator with an automatic transfer switch. I showed them our circuit-breaker box and told them which circuit numbers should be on generator power. Okay, everything's working hunky-dory. WELL ... I wanted to cut the power to one room in the house to install a light fixture, so I went back to the original circuit-breaker box and tried flipping switches (which worked before the generator installation) -- and nothing happened. None of the switches cuts out any power in the house. I threw the main switch for the entire house's power -- and the generator promptly turned on! How can I shut off individual circuits now? Or for that matter, is it possible to shut off everything and leave the generator off? I'd think this is a safety thing... The transfer switch box needs a screwdriver to open, so I've left it alone. The transfer-switch manual (it's a Kohler RXT) says it has a load center and circuit breakers can be added, not included. -- Do I need to pay an electrician (more money?!) to come out and add circuit breakers to the transfer switch? <Q> The original breakers no longer function because nothing is connected to them now; there is probably one dual-pole breaker feeding the critical load panel, and there should then be a breaker for each circuit there. <S> If you are not comfortable investigating, call the electrician that did the install and ask them to walk you through operation and service requirements for the setup. <A> As far as the generator goes, it should have a on-auto-off switch on it. <S> Turn it to off, and then it won't kick on. <S> On the matter of a breaker not turning off the power to that circuit, that sounds wrong to me, and I would have them back out to correct that, as that is not a correct installation. <A> This transfer switch has branch circuit breakers inside the outer cover. <S> You remove that and the breakers are visible and can be used to shut off the circuit. <S> There is still an inner cover to keep all live parts shielded. <S> I just installed one of these today.
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The load center with the transfer switch (or "critical load panel") should have a circuit for each circuit that was specified to be connected to the generator.
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How to use ceramic glaze to waterproof an earthen tank? A rammed-earth architect and myself have had the idea of building rammed-earth water tanks that would be coated with ceramic glaze on the inside, as an alternative to a cement / concrete tanks, for remote areas of Nepal, where transporting cement would be logistically unsound. We have yet to experiment and see the cost effectiveness of our idea. As for now, I would like to know what type of glaze I could use to coat the inside of the tank and how I could fire it? Is there a recommended low-temperature glaze? Can it be fired cheaply? (For instance I was thinking of filling the tank with saw-dust and feeding oxygen / air through a ventilation pipe so temperature would soar). I am merely speculating here, but it seems like a valid idea. Would you have some suggestions regarding glazing? <Q> Glaze is essentially glass that is formulated to bond with the supporting clay body such that it's physical properties such as coefficient of expansion are similar. <S> Since your "clay" body is unfired earth of varying composition, even if you were to succeed in applying it, it will quickly crack and spall off. <S> You also will never get the consistent temperature control required for a homogeneous glass surface. <S> A good part will be either over or under fired and not water proof. <S> Also, pure glass fires at very high temperatures. <S> To produce glaze that fires at lower temperatures, a flux must be added. <S> Traditionally, low fire fluxes have been various lead compounds, which have been proven unsafe for food and water contact. <S> I believe alternate food safe fluxes have been developed, but their functional temperature range is very restricted, so may not work for the application that you envision. <S> I commend your out of the box thinking, but this idea is just not practical. <S> Keep the ideas coming though, you're bound to hit a good one eventually! <A> As bcworkz pointed glazing may be too difficult on the scale of a water tank, I looked into using rosin as a glazing. <S> I made some tests melting resin from local sāl trees and applied them to a ceramic shard, which is now waterproofed. <S> We'll try this on rammed earth now and see if it is a success. <S> (Answer to be updated). <S> NB: <S> the resin might not be from sāl proper, but it is sold under this name on the market. <A> I find your idea interesting. <S> I recommend the book Ceramic Architecture by Nader Khalili. <S> Khalili was able to fire whole adobe structures utilizing a gravity fed kerosene burner. <S> I believe he experimented in using glazes on the adobe bricks. <S> Would it be possible to include, during the rammed earth process, a way to securely attach strings or wires in the rammed earth? <S> If so, then you could use hardware cloth tied to the strings and white cement to waterproof. <S> Or alternately, you could utilize white cement in the rammed earth mixture to waterproof the entirety of the rammed earth.
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Another path might be to use materials that would be used to waterproof swimming pools.
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How to prevent incandescent light bulbs from heating up the room, safely? Currently I have ten 60W incandescent light bulbs heating up my room, very little ventilation, and no ideas on how to stop them from making the room so very hot. If I had other lighting option, I would've switched to them by now, but I have to work with what I have. How can I prevent the light bulbs from heating up my room, so that I don't lose too much light (at most 20% brightness loss is acceptable), and the lamps don't overheat, or otherwise become a danger? <Q> Efficiency in light bulbs boils down to "for a given amount of power running through the bulb, how much is turned into light and how much is wasted as heat? <S> " <S> Fluorescent bulbs are much more efficient than incandescents; LEDs are even more efficient, but they're a lot more expensive. <S> Here's a comparison chart from the US Department of Energy . <S> CFLs are marketed according to the incandescent bulb they could (theoretically) replace; 60-watt replacements draw 13 watts . <S> As I said, the replacement values are theoretical, and you may find that a 13-watt CFL is not quite bright enough; if so, you could step up to the "100-watt equivalent", which draws 23 watts , and still be generating far less heat than you are now. <S> The maximum-wattage labels in light fixtures are based on the power drawn and heat generated, NOT on the light produced; you could safely upgrade all the way to these bad boys (55-watt CFL, "250-watt equivalent") without worrying about overheating, but your room would be unbearably bright (and nearly as hot as it is now). <A> A 60-watt incandescent puts out about 800 lumens of light. <S> A 100-watt incandescent puts out about 1600 lumens. <S> Your 10 60 watters put out about 8000 lumens total. <S> It'll only take 5 100-watt bulbs to equal that. <S> 60 * 10 <S> = 600 watts <S> heat.100 * <S> 5 = 500 watts heat. <S> So, if the sockets can handle it, your room will be a little cooler if you switch to using 5 100-watt bulbs. <S> The room will be just as bright.150 <S> watt bulbs, if you can find them, will give you still more lumens per watt. <A> P = <S> I <S> * <S> A <S> Typically 10 or 20 AMP circuits draw : 10 <S> * 120 = 1200 <S> W <S> 20 <S> * 120 = 2400 <S> W Watts of power. <S> So, 600W is a lot on one circuit, (25% to 50%) of total output. <S> That in of itself will produce a significant amount of heat. <S> As @MT_Head says, you need to decrease your draw, and that is only going to be accomplished by switching out the bulbs to a more efficient bulb. <S> It will be more expensive. <S> but that is the cost of efficiency.
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You haven't mentioned what sort of fixture these bulbs are in, but this sounds like a classic case for compact fluorescent lights (CFL).
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Is it OK to have ground wire connected to breaker box wall instead of neutral bus? After having issues with lights flickering, I noticed the main 100A breaker was warm and arcing slightly. Instead of just replacing the breaker, I decided to call in a electrician to install a larger panel with spaces for more breakers, as I was planning to install an air conditioner in the future. He said the existing ground wire wasn't long enough, so he connected it to the metal wall of the panel with something that looks like a miniature bus with one screw. (sorry, I forgot exactly what it was called) Is it really safe to do this? Is there any advantage/disadvantage to connecting the grounding wire to the metal casing of the panel instead of directly to the neutral bus? <Q> The panelboard will be bonded to ground, and according to the National Electrical Code (NEC) it must be done so using specific methods. <S> 250.8 Connection of Grounding and Bonding Equipment. <S> (A) Permitted Methods. <S> Grounding conductors and bonding jumpers shall be connected by one of the following means: (1) Listed pressure connectors <S> (2) Terminal bars <S> (3) Pressure connectors listed as grounding and bonding equipment (4) <S> Exothermic welding process (5) Machine screw-type fasteners that engage not <S> less than two threads or are secured with a nut (6) Thread-forming machine screws that engage not less than two threads in the enclosure (7) Connections that are part of a listed assembly <S> (8) Other listed means <S> (B) <S> Methods Not Permitted. <S> Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used. <S> If the specific method used in your situation fits one of the methods listed above, then the panelboard is likely grounded properly. <S> The ground and neutral bus bars inside the panel are surely bonded to the panel itself using one of these methods. <S> Which means as long as the panel is connected to the system grounding conductor using an approved method, the system should be properly grounded. <S> If you have doubts as to whether or not the installation is correct. <S> Contact your local government and check on any permits that were obtained for the work, and/or request the installation be inspected by the local electrical inspector. <A> Nope, the box breaker wall is not designed to serve as a ground bus. <S> Yes, it is grounded so that if a stray wire falls onto the wall this incurs a leak or a short and protection trips <S> but it is not meant to serve as the primary path to ground. <S> You have to extend the actual ground wire and use it as a ground. <S> So although from the common sense point of view you're perhaps okay <S> (I've seen much worse installations and noone was shocked), the described installation violates the idea of how grounding is designed and so is not proper grounding. <A> Yes this is probably fine. <S> Usually grounds and neutral are connected to the same bus but if that is full you can add a ground bar that connects to the housing. <S> Only grounds should be connected to it though not neutrals. <S> For instance this Square D Catalog has a "Grounding Bar Kit" designed to add additional ground terminals to the Load Center. <S> This Instruction manual for the Grounding Bar kit shows that it may be installed with a single screw.
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As mentioned in the comments both proper installation and a compatible grounding bar is required for it to be safe.
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How do I insulate the ceiling in my crawlspace? I'm desperately looking for some advice on how to properly insulate the crawl space. I live in eastern Massachusetts where it has recently been in the teens and 20s for low temps in winter.I have a large crawl space under my kitchen and 3 season porch ranging in height from 1' to 4' with no venting to the outside. I recently air-sealed the entire rim joist with an expanding foam and added a heavy mil plastic sheeting over the dirt floor, making sure to overlap and seal all edges. We also insulated the copper pipes in the space with closed cell insulation tubing and taped all joints to prevent the pipes from freezing. The kitchen is still very cold. I would like to ideally insulate the space in between the floor joists and possibly the exterior brick foundation walls but are getting conflicting info on what to do. Could use a poly spray foam kit, but the max R-values I have seen are only in the 7-10 range and its not anywhere close to warm enough outside to prevent it from failing. Everything I read says not to use apply when below 60 degrees or it will not cure properly. Its barely in the 30s right now! Also, the exterior walls are not all that clean and the foam might not stick. Floor joists are not evenly spaced and range from 17"OC to 22"OC so batt insulation is going to be a pain. Could use blown-in insulation but how do I get it to stay up there? Someone told me to use a plastic sheeting across all the joists with furring strips for extra support and then simply blow the insulation into each joist cavity, but I am worried that the plastic sheeting is too much of a vapor barrier and will cause mold inside the joist cavities. If the crawl space is already moisture sealed, am I OK? Do I need some sort of barrier up inside the cavities on the bottom of the floor? Also, do I really need to insulate the brick foundation walls and will this show a big difference? Because the dirt is not evenly distributed and some areas are tight to get into, getting rigid foam board would be nearly impossible. Please help!!! <Q> I am also in the Northeast and have had to tackle this type of situation a few times. <S> There are several ways to attack it. <S> In your case, the best solution, but unfortunately the most expensive would be to use an open cell foam kit to fill the joist bays. <S> They are fairly easy to use and give you about an R-4 rating per inch. <S> They are a two tank kit with a hose and wand. <S> Here is an example product: Touch N Seal 1000 Kit Open Cell Spray Foam Insulation <S> These type of kits start around $400, depending on the square footage and depth required. <S> A cheaper method would be to use 24 inch R-19 unfaced blanket insulation cut to your custom widths. <S> You can use wire springs to hold it in place and keep it from falling. <S> I would then cover the entire area with 4 to 6 mil plastic, stapled to all the joists. <S> Tape the joints, if any. <S> Moisture should not be a major problem since you have already done what sounds like a good job sealing the dirt floor. <S> In the summer months, some ventilation in the crawl space will also help avoid excess moisture. <S> If there is free air flow, insulating the brick walls would be a waste of time and money. <A> You could use rigid XPS foam. <S> Usually you get about R-5 per inch of foam and the foam itself comes in 1", 1 1/2" and 2". <S> You can secure it with adhesive (PL-300 - must be for XPS foam) or screws/washers. <S> Insulating the brick foundation walls will likely make a big difference too. <S> Building Science has all sorts of great information on the different ways to accomplish this. <A> <A> I'm currently insulating my bosses crawl space <S> and we decided on paper backed R30 stapled up with the paper facing down as to provide the means to attach it. <S> Problem is R30 while providing a far more energy efficient means of insulating is too thick and protrudes from the ceiling putting extra pressure the staples which we fear will cause the paper to rip off over time . <S> Solution : install 6 mil plastic with staples over the insulation.
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Rigid foam glued to the foundation walls would also help if the area is fairly air tight. There is netting that is used to hold loose insulation up; it could be attached under the joists and then loose-fill insulation added. It usually comes in 4'x8' sheets which you could cut to size in order to properly fill your mixed dimensions.
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Is it bad that my cordless drill is smoking? I was using my cordless drill today. I was trying to drive a bolt that was stuck with my drill in low gear and it wasn't really budging. I tried a few times and then noticed that smoke was coming out of my drill's cooling slots. My drill has a brushless motor and 725in-lb of torque and it was stalling out. Does that mean that something inside the drill fried, or is it common to see smoke come from a drill while under a heavy load? EDIT: The drill is a Milwaukee M18 Fuel . <Q> Don't Stall Electric Motors. <S> Ever. <S> Stalled motor = <S> no back EMF = High Current. <S> It burns the windings out. <S> I'd think the technology in more expensive drills with brushless motors would sense a stall condition and go into shutdown, but yours seems to be willing to sacrifice its life, cooking the insulation off the windings and attempting to burn out the MOSFET array that drives the motor. <S> An Electric Impact wrench is more appropriate for this kind of abuse. <S> It has a mechanism that allows the motor to spin up, deliver a sharp shock to turn the bolt and release immedately so the motor never stalls. <S> If an electric or pneumatic impact wrench driving the appropriate impact socket won't loosen it, the time has come to apply some Mouse Milk and a breaker bar. <S> Here's a Dewalt Planetary Set with attached Brushless Motor. <S> Your windings will be dark brown instead of that gold, green or red color <S> they usually color the enamel. <S> The next step for it is to turn black and the windings then start to short. <A> Mine started sparking and smoking. <S> After a few short bursts I could tell that the light/sparks were coming from the very back of the motor. <S> As my last attempt before I burned it out and replaced the motor was to blow compressed air in then try a squirt of wd40 onto the very back from the inside of the motor (the bearing?). <S> A LOT of smoke as the oil burned off, then it was good as new. <S> Which isn't bad for a 10+ year old Ryobi P200. <A> The sparks are ok for it just means heavy load. <S> Stop, feel and smell for burns. <S> Let it cool for a few minutes and switch to a heavier duty setting such as hammer. <S> If sparks still form up and the tool is still getting hot, then it means it reaches its limits. <S> Stop and use something else. <S> The tools are forgiving for a once in a while overload. <S> Learn the limits and go slightly under maximum work load to be safe.
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A one time burn is no big deal just don't repeating it.
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Why is an AFCI tripping when a particular light on a different circuit is turned on? I have 4 GE AFCIs in a GE subpanel in my basement. Occasionally, when I turn on a bank of dimmable CFL lights via a CFL-rated dimmer switch, I get a trip in a particular AFCI breaker that's on the other phase. This doesn't happen every time, and it seems to happen more when the dimmer isn't set to full brightness. Resetting the breaker gets the power back on with no issues, but I'm tired of this. I'm at a loss as to why a different circuit on a different phase is tripping, and even more confused why it happens only some of the time. These are not MWBCs, but obviously share the neutral in the panel feeder. Nothing else causes any other trips anywhere else in the house that aren't obvious, like 4 hair driers on a 15A circuit. What's going on here? How can I find the cause of this? <Q> The dimmers are spewing radio-frequency hash into the power line, which confuses the AFCI into a false trip. <S> It makes sense that it's more reproducible on an intermediate dimmer setting, because that's when the dimmer chops the line voltage aggressively, not when it's fully on or fully off. <S> Bypass capacitors could help with this: 1 to 10 nF capacitors, X1/Y2 rated ceramic or film, minimum 250VAC working voltage rating. <S> This diagrams shows three caps: between hot and neutral, hot and ground, and between neutral and ground. <S> The basic idea is that 60 Hz AC will not pass through these capacitors because the frequency is too low, but radio frequencies pass through easily. <S> So the capacitors provide a short circuit shunt path for high frequencies, reducing how much of it spews back upstream from the dimmer. <S> This looks simple, and it is, but it has to be done properly. <S> Capacitors have long, uninsulated terminals, creating opportunities for short circuits if you're not careful. <S> Instead of these ad-hoc capacitors, you can install an EMI filter upstream from the light dimmer. <S> EMI filters have a more sophisticated circuit which includes inductors. <S> One more thing: the Lutron dimmer company sells a filtering component that they call a lamp debuzzing coil . <A> After months of diagnosing an intermittent "nuisance" ARC fault trip on a circuit protected by a Siemens QA115AFC <S> this thread gave me a hint and ultimately a successful diagnosis. <S> The afflicted circuit had a LED can retrofit "bulb" and when I removed that from use no more nuisance trips on Arc Fault. <S> The retrofit is a GE model and UL listed bulb, made in China of course. <S> What is weird is that immediately after the fault was cleared by resetting the breaker if you tried to reproduce the trip condition, lamp on and then energize higher draw device, the trip wouldn't occur. <S> It would only trip after some time elapses with the lamp on. <S> I think the Siemens device circuitry must monitor the slow leakage of current from the LED bulb driver and only after some amount has accumulated the condition is primed for a trip at higher draw. <A> Have you tried swapping the breakers around? <S> If the problem stays with the branch circuit, then you know the circuit is the problem. <A> The easy answer is to use dimmable bulbs. <S> Cheap non- <S> dimming cfl and led don't have an anti flicker circuit built in. <S> Very likely the flicker is the issue. <S> Those very small on-off voltage moves will cause an AFCI to trip. <S> I agree, do not add any "ad-hoc" equipment to attemp to bypass the afci protection. <A> Arc fault breakers have a problem with dimmer circuits and variable motor control circuits and heave loaded modern florescent ballast. <S> The larger the load the the more often an arc fault breaker will trip. <S> For this reason Some states have exempted Arc fault on problematic circuits. <S> I would verify your local code and see if the arc fault breaker is required. <S> If the breaker is required different combinations of dimmers and lighting may work better than others.
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The trip would only occur when the bulb was on (single bulb in the circuit) and then a larger current draw device was energized, immediately on energizing the higher draw device the breaker would trip. If the problem follows the breaker, then you know the breaker is the problem.
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Should I use 3 wire or 4 wire for a range? I am trying to do a little work and have an electrician check it. I have a range that is a 3 prong 50amp 125/250 (looks like the 10-50R). List of materials purchased: 50 amp Siemens Circuit Breaker 25 ft of 6/3 Aluminum wire Staples Cable Brackets 50amp 125/250V receptacle I am aware that the code changed in 1999 requiring 4 wire, albeit after I purchased this stuff. Would it be better for longevity to install 6/4 rather than the 6/3 and have the 3 prong range plug rewired? Not even sure if you can install the 3wire, though it is an old house. <Q> You must always follow the most recently adopted code when installing new wiring, no matter how old the house is. <S> With that said, the cord of a cord-and-plug attached device is beyond the scope of the National Electrical Code (NEC). <S> Installing a new range <S> When you purchase a range, they will also sell you the attachment plug. <S> If you opt to install the stove yourself, they will ask you if you need 3 or 4 wire. <S> This is because if you already have a 3 wire receptacle that was installed before the code change then you are not required to update the house wiring when installing the range. <S> When you're ready to install the range in the house, you'll follow the manufacturers installation instruction for a 3 wire attachment plug. <S> Once the cord is attached to the device, simply plug it in and you're done. <S> Installing or modifying a range circuit <S> This will likely mean running 4 conductor wire, and installing a 4 wire receptacle. <S> Remember, the code is applied during installation, not when the materials are purchased. <S> Side Note: <S> Technically, code applies at the time of inspection. <S> However, the inspector will usually use the date the permit was granted. <S> So if there was a code change after the permit was pulled, but before the inspection, the inspector will usually use the old code. <A> Do you want to wire the plug for an old existing range or a new one? <S> If it is older 3 wire, then a three wire plug is fine technically, but if it is designed for four wire, you should upgrade. <S> An electrician most likely will want you to install a 4 wire circuit and modify the range to use a 4 wire plug. <S> Also, if this is a new circuit where a range has not been installed before, then a 4 wire circuit should be installed. <S> you can use the same breaker and exchange the 3 wire plug for a 4 wire plug. <S> You will have to get new wire however. <A> Popular belief is that all certified electricians want to rip you off by telling you that you need this or that done when you really don't. <S> Well I am not one of those, and this question deserves a qualified proper answer. <S> If the stove receptacle and 3 wire are already in the wall and working fine don't mess with it. <S> However if you are getting that funny vibrating tingling feeling from the stove when you touch it, when it's on or not, then the stove is not properly grounded and that is what the 4 wire system does. <S> It has very little to do with causing a fire or earning electricians more money. <S> Codes are put in place to prevent fires, but also to protect homeowners and their families from getting a life threatening shock from a faulty manufactured appliance or another condition that could potential be life threatening. <S> So please stop thinking wrong of us hard working, caring, safety conscious individuals.
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If your range has a 3 wire attachment plug, you'll have to follow the manufacturers installation instructions to change to a 4 wire plug. If you are installing a new circuit for the range (which it sounds like you might be), or modifying the existing range circuit, you must follow all currently adopted codes.
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What size ceiling joists and rafters should I use for a 14' span? I'm going to build a single story addition to my home with a width of 14ft. I plan on using ceiling joists every 16" but I'm not sure which size to get. The roof will be asphalt shingles and the attic will not be required to hold storage. I've looked at span charts for both rafters and ceiling joists but I'm not sure of the dead load, live load and deflection limit. Another factor is ground snow load. My location is Northern Virginia. What size joists and rafters should I use? I'm guessing 2"x6" for both. <Q> As @TheEvilGreebo mentions, 2x6 is not enough for a floor that will be used as "habitable space". <S> I know because when I remodeled my attic to convert it to a bedroom, the existing 2x6 floor joists (over a very similar span) were not enough and I had to sister them all. <S> At a minimum you will need to check with your local (municipal or county) building department. <S> They should be able to tell you what you need. <S> It might be easier to get a structural engineer or architect to come out and tell you what to do. <S> If they are not drawing up plans you might be surprised that their prices are quite reasonable (they should be able to give you a quote for what it would cost for them to come out and generate a report up front). <S> It will also help when you get your building permit to be able to submit the report written by a certified professional to the building department. <A> There seems to be some confusion in terminology. <S> I understand the ceiling joists to support the ceiling finish, support no live loads, and serve to tie the rafter ends together to form a triangular truss like structure. <S> The ceiling joist size will depend on whether you will be installing knee braces and purlins or not. <S> Such a ceiling joist you can figure a 10 psf dead load for span tables, but with knee braces, you can't use span tables. <S> The roof dead load depends on your roofing material. <S> For regular asphalt shingles, figure 15psf dead load, much more for tiles. <S> Some jurisdictions specify a roof snowload that is not reducible. <S> Snowloads can vary drastically by small changes in location. <S> For deflection limits, 1/240 the span for ceilings is OK. <S> Unfortunately, there is not enough information to answer your question. <S> If I understand your ceiling joist application correctly, a 2x6 should be adequate if no knee braces are involved, but I couldn't say for sure, <S> it's just my gut feeling. <A> If you are building something for yourself or something you take pride in, ask the local building official then get the next size larger. <S> What is good now is now is not always good enough 5 or 10 years from now. <S> The few dollars now is the difference between custom and tract housing.
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You should inquire with your local building authority for this kind of information. For rafters with no ceiling finish in the typical attic situation, you can use 1/180 span under combined dead and live loads. The roof live load will typically be some portion of the ground snowload, depending on roofing material and pitch.
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Is super insulating exterior walls with rigid foam board insulation possible? 2" rigid foam-board insulation can have an R-value of up to R-10, layering 4 boards would create a R-40 value, right? However that creates an 8" foam wall above the actual wall. What would be a recommended way to attach all the boards to the exterior wall? Also how would you attach the finishing wall surface to the foam? Reason to use rigid foam board insulation, is that its cheap? Cost to insulate 16 Square feet to an R-40 value, $70 USD for rigid foam, $238 (not including installation) for closed cell spray foam. I am thinking plywood base, vapor barrier, foam board base, screwed and glued down to base. Then can I glue??? the remaining insulation foam boards in place on top of one another? Then lastly how about attaching the exterior weathering wall, maybe something like exterior cement fiberboard? Can that be glued to the insulation foam-board. Products in mind are: FOAMULAR® 250 rigid XPS foam insulation for exterior walls Natura Pro exterior fiber cement panel Note: Spray foam insulation cost can be estimated here <Q> Yes, Rigid foam (XPS and ISO) boards are frequently used in exterior applications, and can be a great option for improving efficiency. <S> There are a couple of issues with your proposed approach, though: Vapor barrier location. <S> The vapor barrier should be on the warm side (probably inside, unless you live in a very hot & humid climate). <S> Ideally, this is immediately behind your interior drywall. <S> You also do not usually need an extra vapor barrier layer adjacent to rigid foam sheets, they are typically highly resistant to moisture. <S> Attachment. <S> You cannot rely on glue to support foam and siding panels. <S> These need to be mechanically fastened. <S> On a wood frame house, you'd want to use this order: <S> interior drywall possibly a vapor barrier (e.g. poly sheeting), though the wisdom of this is debatable (see the comment from iLikeDirt below) wall studs (optionally with batt or cellulose insulation in between) exterior sheathing rigid foam <S> wooden strapping for attaching siding, screwed to studs through foam. <S> This provides support for the siding and also allows air circulation behind the siding, so any moisture that gets behind the siding can dry out. <S> siding panels, nailed to strapping <S> Here's a visual from Fine Homebuilding, which has a couple of good articles on this: <S> Note that adding foam on the exterior of your house complicates some things. <S> You will likely need to redo the trim on your windows and doors, which will become more in-set. <S> These inset areas will need to be flashed properly or you will have leaks, which have more potential to do damage when you've got multi-layered, thick walls that could trap moisture. <S> But make sure to work with someone who knows what they're doing! <A> If you do this, make sure to stagger the joints and it would be best if you tape each layer's joints with a high-quality long lasting tape to prevent any air movement. <S> UL181 rated tape would be good. <S> I would be pretty dubious about gluing the weather layer. <S> It seems that spikes (long nails) are more commonly used. <S> Or perhaps long screws would have better holding power. <S> You're basically building a SIP. <S> Is it cheaper than buying one pre-made? <A> I was actually looking for information on how to attach the rigid foam insulation to the outside of a brick house, when I ran into the question, above. <S> I do not have a great deal of technical expertise or anything, <S> but, I just wanted to say that in Southern Arizona the rigid foam insulation is often used on the outside of buildings. <S> What I do know about using it in this climate is that there is no vapor barrier used, no fiberboard or plywood, either. <S> The insulation is attached directly to the walls (but, I don't know how to do it) <S> and then it is covered over with stucco or adobe. <S> It's very simple and very effective. <S> I know that some people do glue it; <S> but, I can't imagine that would be effective for long term, as glue dries out very quickly in the heat. <A> Don't ever use a vapor barrier under the drywall, only use under a concrete basement floor. <S> Or if you enjoy trapping moisture then go ahead and use it. <S> 8" of XPS? <S> Do you live in the North Pole? <S> Firstly, you should use two layers (one overlapping the other). <S> Depending on your location, use either 1", 1.5", or 2". <S> So that gives you up to R20 on the outside and covers all the wood which is better than any system that does not use exterior insulation. <S> The 2nd layer of XPS nails to the first with those nails that have plastic washers on them. <S> You only need enough to hold temporarily until #6 below. <S> You don't need 2x6 walls unless you're building really tall. <S> Use 2x4's which is cheaper and then throw cheap R11 fiberglass in it. <S> With 4" of foam, that system will give you a total R value of 29.5 (assuming your studs make up 20% of the surface area of your walls.... <S> your R11 fiberglass becomes 9.5). <S> After your tywrap you need something to create a 1/8" gap before the XPS....and don't count on "crinkle" wrap to do this. <S> Don't put your exterior boards right on the XPS (good lord.... <S> you've got nothing to nail into). <S> Use 1x4 vertical wood boards (3/4" thick) <S> screwed into each stud. <S> This is what you will use to nail your exterior to. <S> This also gives the wonderful benefit of a natural air flow of summer heat behind the exterior which will vent out the top into the soffit.
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If done well, you can get very good insulation.
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Can I use a paint & primer combo on new wood? I'm currently painting a window and door that are both new. Although I initially bought primer which I used on the window (but haven't painted over yet), when doing the door, I just used my paint/primer. I only did the front part of the door this way, and then realized maybe I've made a mistake? Is the paint/primer not good enough on its own? Or can I continue painting the door with just that, and then do a second coat to ensure full coverage? <Q> The paint/primer should be fine, especially with two coats, but I typically begin with primer, as it seems (in my experience) that primer holds paint better and lasts a bit longer before requiring touch ups or repainting, and it's often cheaper to do a coat of good primer (match latex to latex, or make sure you follow the label if you use a different combo), then two or three even coats of less-expensive paint (paint+primer is almost always 2-3x more expensive than paint alone. <S> I wouldn't sand and re-paint, of course. <S> You should be fine with what you have so far. <S> [Edit: one other note on paint+primer paints; make sure you read reviews or ask others about their experiences with the particular brand you're buying. <S> A friend ended up with a patchy-looking paint job when he used one of the cheaper brands. <S> I don't know if it was an isolated incident or if the brand is normally bad (or if he didn't mix the paint well!), but research before you buy.] <A> For once, Wikipedia has a good article on primers: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Primer_(paint) <S> In summary, paint has two functions: protection and decoration. <S> Primer is really good at protection, so it makes sense to prime properly, with a specialist primer. <S> Combined primer/undercoats inevitably compromise somewhere, usually on the ability to penetrate the wood. <S> The finish coat is just that, it's for the decoration. <S> A good, expensive, aluminium primer, followed by one or two coats of undercoat, followed by one or two coats of top-coat. <S> (But I live in the UK where conditions are horrid for wood -- very rainy, occasionally snowy, and dry and hot in the summer.) <S> In your case: you'll most likely be OK with two or three coats of combined paint/primer but be prepared for it to need another coat in three or four seasons. <S> At that point a sand/recoat should be good. <S> Final tips <S> : don't economise on paint quality, expensive brands invariably cover better and last longer. <S> And, match manufacturers and chemistry if at all possible, as a paint "system" that matches will generally last longer. <S> And, prepare, prepare, prepare! <A> In my opinion any exterior bare wood or wood that will be hit, touched, etc..often should be covered with an oil primer if you have access to it. <S> Allow it to cure properly and then go over it with the topcoat of your choice. <A> I would definitely prime the wood first. <S> I've had nothing but bad experiences with the paint/primer combos, even the expensive one's. <S> I live in a rural area and am limited in what I can get <S> and I keep finding myself in conflict with clients over this issue. <S> They've fallen for the gimmick that you can do the whole thing in two coats. <S> Not true <S> and like someone else said a third coat of the more expensive PP combo in order to get it to look right is actually costing people more money. <S> That's the gimmick. <S> I wish the stuff would just disappear from the market.
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If it's an outside wooden door I'd definitely go for a full three- or four-coat treatment.
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How do I slow down a pocket door when opening and closing? I had a pocket door installed in 2009 and the pocket door slides way too fast when opening and closing. I can't work out how to slow it down. <Q> I'm currently installing a pocket door. <S> It's a full 1.75" exterior door thickness, flush door that weighs 120 lbs (plywood facing and oak rails and stiles and oak edging.) <S> I built the door myself (cost me 10% against the cheapest bid I got for the door.) <S> I am using Johnson 200 series rollers and I-beam for the door. <S> It rolls VERY easy. <S> Easy enough to break finger bones. <S> So this quickly became a serious safety issue for me. <S> Luckily, before I set to finishing the pocket door wall. <S> I am using carpet samples (free) on the floor inside the pocket. <S> The carpet is attached inside a separate piece of "furniture," in the sense that by removing the door trim, I can remove the pocket door and then reach inside, unclip the wood box (3/4" high, 32" long, 3.5" wide) that holds the carpet samples, replace worn samples, reclip the box back against the floor inside the pocket, place the door back, and retrim the door. <S> I can easily set the resistance this way (packing several strips of carpet on top, if needed) and appropriate carpet samples will be available in perpetuity. <S> Also considered using pile weatherstripping as an alternative idea. <S> But the carpet really seems to work better and only wears against the bottom of the pocket door which no one sees or cares about. <A> The thing that makes an object on motion go fast or slow is friction (or lack thereof). <S> You need more friction. <S> The challenge is to introduce a little friction that will not interfere with the doors operation or mark up the visible portions of the door. <S> While I could envision a system of roller tensioning adjustment in a pocket door, I am not aware that any exist. <S> What about putting a little sideways pressure on the face of the door as it slides? <S> I would suggest introducing a small felt pad between one of the faces of the door and the framing that it faces. <S> The gap in there is probably about 1/8 to 1/4 inch. <S> Use something with a soft face and an adhesive back, such as felt chair pads . <S> One of these could be placed inside the framing at the top of one side of the door. <S> You could test it by leaving the protective paper layer on the adhesive side, and putting a piece of double stick cellophane tape (not the foam type - too thick) on one half of that layer. <S> Fit the pad in half way <S> (so you can get it out for final placement) with the tape holding it. <S> Try sliding. <S> If it seems ok, take the pad out, remove the protective layer, hold a piece of wax paper over the adhesive side and slide the whole pad into position. <S> Use a needle nose pliers to hold the felt in place and slide out the wax paper. <S> Use a putty knife (or a butter knife) to press the pad firmly in place. <S> If you need additional friction, you could add a second pad on the opposite face of the door. <A> My guess is you have ball bearing hangers on the doors, if you want to slow the door down, you could change one of the hangers to a standard none ball bearing hanger. <A> I would be tempted to retrofit some soft close hardware to the door. <S> This would keep the door easy to move but would slow down the last bit of motion. <S> It will certainly require some work that will be difficult now that the door is installed but would give you a nice high end feel and save fingers. <A> Today there are many options available in the market for automatic control of the opening and closing of pocket doors. <S> Why don't you try them?
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You would need to select a pad that is just thick enough to rub gently against the door.
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How can I finish and seal an interior exposed brick wall? I have exposed a 100+ yr old brick wall inside, tuckpointed, cleaned with cup brushes on a grinder, and Sureklean 600 . I don't have a picture right now but it looks beautiful. Two questions: I want to finish the wall with polyurethane or something mildly shiny but definitely not too much. What is the best coating to use? After using Sureklean, what is the purpose of neutralizing? The instruction on the jug say neutralize with water + baking soda for indoor but not outdoor application. <Q> It is solvent based, so use an organic respirator during application, remove pets, ventilate! <S> The Miracle product adds no sheen or color, absorbing completely. <S> They have a water-based product also, although I haven't used it and can't confirm-or-deny. <S> The Sure Klean is an acidic product, (hydrocloric acid). <S> On exteriors, you would flood with hose and/or pressure washer, obviating the need for a neutralizer. <S> I doubt you would hose down your interior, so a neutralizer indoors is needed. <A> I finished a wall in my 1906 house with plain shellac. <S> I got very good results. <S> Two coats <S> and you'll get a nice finish with a sheen but not a shine or gloss. <S> It's held up well too. <S> I needed two quarts for 150 square feet applied by brush. <A> If you've mechanically removed all remnants of paint, then your choices are pretty broad. <S> You could use any clear "original" or "heavy duty" masonry sealer, and there are plenty. <S> If you still have paint or paint could have penetrated further into the masonry than you removed, then your choices are much more limited. <S> There are some brick sealants, but they require fresh, clean bricks mostly. <S> Seal Krete makes some masonry sealers that are listed to go on top of painted or previously-painted surfaces. <S> I'm not familiar with your product, but it's most likely an acid <S> and you're "neutralizing" it with a base to cancel out the pH <S> so it won't continue to act on the wall or the next top coat.
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A sealer I use for stone and grout (also rated for brick) is Miracle 511 Porous Plus .
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How to make a floor plan? First, I'm not good with home improvement or anything too manual for that matter - I'm more of a computer geek. I am soon to move into a new empty apartment and I am going to go furniture/appliance shopping soon. I figured before I start shopping, I need to know where to put things and what fits. So I thought of making a floor plan (a simple one). Having never done this before, I am looking for tips, tutorials, fallacies, geeky tools or anything to make this experience easier and more useful. <Q> There are numerous approaches from simple graph paper (which can be printed out from free online sites, such as this one ) to sophisticated paid-for programs, for example one from HGTV . <S> There are also hard copy layout sets with standard furniture that can be purchased. <S> You might want to look at one of the free programs, such as Google Sketchup <S> (there is also a more complex paid version). <S> There is a bit of a learning curve, but it has great tools to do three dimensional modeling. <S> The paid version has a two dimensional module called Layout. <A> Home Designer <S> As a contractor, I used to use Home Designer before upgrading to more professional and expensive stuff. <S> They have various product levels to as low as $59. <S> It is a scaled down version of professional software, Chief Architect ($1500-2000). <S> Sketchup <S> It is better for 3D designs and modeling than floor plans. <S> That being said, if you want to take the time to look through tutorials and plugins, you can easily do some nice floor plans, and 3D with some extra effort. <S> The great thing about sketchup is you can use it for lots of things. <S> It is very good for quick 3D mock-ups and has very intuitive use once you get accustomed to the hotkeys and controls. <S> There are many other pay and free software out there, these are just some of the ones I have experience with and the two that I would recommend in this case. <A> Since you are a self-described computer geek, I recommend Microsoft Word! <S> You don't need to get down to the nitty-gritty stuff just to figure out how to arrange furniture. <S> You can open a word document, set it to show gridlines, and then adjust the gridlines so that they are square and you get enough of them on the page. <S> Figure each one will represent 2 inches or so. <S> Then you can use the "insert shapes" function to add walls and furnishings. <S> Figure an interior wall is 6" thick by the time you add drywall and trim to it. <S> Make rectangles or whatever other shapes you need to represent your furnishings, and add text to label them. <S> For new items <S> you're thinking about buying, look up their dimensions online and make a new shape to represent them. <S> Then you can drag and rotate all of the shapes around any way you like. <S> Best of all, it's free, and you probably already know how to use the program.
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If you are looking for something free, then Sketchup is great, but without plugins is not as easy out of the box to use for floor plans.
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Where should I place nails when installing crown molding? Is there any particular place on the crown molding where I should position a nail (middle, inside creases, top, bottom, multiple locations)? <Q> What is important when nailing crown molding is hitting a solid background. <S> This can be plates for small crowns or studs. <S> What I prefer to do is add a profile (triangle) piece of scrap wood, such as mitered plywood or ripped 2X4 stock into the corner and nail it into the plates and studs. <S> No problem if you miss or have to use a lot of nails to find a good solid backer because it will be covered by the crown. <S> Now when you go to nail the crown, you will have a good nailer everywhere. <S> I usually use nails along the top edge down 1/2 inch from edge and same along the bottom edge. <S> This helps close any gaps along the ceiling and wall. <S> You can go back after and fill any gaps with painters caulk and touch up to match the crown (if painted) or the wall/ceiling colors respectively. <A> Otherwise it will be hard to fill and sand. <A> Gents using a triangular backer is a great idea but unnecessary... <S> It is a very light molding per foot, simply tacking it to the sheetrock is more than adequate. <S> By the by, due to thermal expansion issues, even in newer homes that have not settled it is a mistake to nail your modeling to the ceiling. <S> Most of these crown moldings are only intended to be nailed to the wall (yes there are profile exceptions) check your profile. <S> If it has a single broad flat area where it contacts the wall, that is where it should be nailed only! <S> I've seen numerous homes where someone nailed to the ceiling and wall <S> and it pulled on the wall or ceiling and caused cracking. <S> If you do the backers you won't need to worry about those issues, your project just takes much longer especially if your are measuring the actual angle that your wall/s and ceiling make where they meet in the corner. <S> Rarely do I see corners that are within an eighth of an inch. <S> As far as a smooth finish goes for nail holes, use paint able caulk, then dip your finger(or caulk finishing profile) in water and run it over the spot. <S> Nice, smooth, perfection!!! <S> That's the way to finish without sanding!
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I always put the nail on a part that is accessible by sandpaper and a finger.
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What causes a water heater's relief valve to discharge water? I have a Gas Reliance Water Heater 1212. I found recently (in winter) there is a water dip through the relief valve into a 5 gallon bucket. Sometimes, it can fill the whole bucket. Sometimes, it has no water drip at all. I can't find the reason why that happens. My two guesses are the usage of water or temperature in the basement. However, I have normal usage -- just laundry, or the dish washer. Nothing odd there. I checked the temperature, and it's sometimes hot, sometimes cold (I live in Pennsylvania). I can't find any pattern. Can anyone help me on this? <Q> There are three reasons a T&P valve opens. <S> Temperature, pressure, or a faulty valve. <S> Temperature <S> If the water in the heater reaches a temperature of 210 degrees F, the T&P valve will open and release water until the water temperature is reduced. <S> As water is removed through the T&P valve, cold water enters through the inlet and mixes with the water in the tank. <S> When enough water has been mixed to reduce the temperature, the T&P valve will close. <S> If temperature causes the release, there will likely be a lot of water released. <S> Pressure <S> Most T&P valves are set to open at 150 psi. <S> If the pressure in the tank reaches this level, the valve opens until the excess pressure is released. <S> If pressure caused the release, you'll usually see about 1 cup of water per 10 gallons in the tank (per release). <S> Temperature or Pressure <S> To figure out if the trip is being caused by temperature or pressure, you'll have to monitor both. <S> Test water pressure? <S> To test water pressure, you'll need a pressure gauge. <S> They sell threaded gauges, that can attach to a standard hose bib. <S> This will work well if you have laundry hookups. <S> Wait until the water heater is actively heating the water (you can expedite this step by using hot water, so go take a shower or something). <S> Connect the gauge to any hot water outlet, and open the tap. <S> Monitor the pressure through the end of the heating cycle. <S> If you get a gauge with a " lazy hand ", it will stay at the highest pressure achieved. <S> That way you won't have to stand by and watch the gauge the whole time. <S> Test water temperature To test the temperature, all you need is a thermometer. <S> Wait until the heater has just finished running. <S> Open the nearest hot water tap, and let it run for a minute of two. <S> Use the thermometer to measure the water temperature. <S> Causes and fixes Without knowing more information about the installation, it's very difficult to speculate as to why this is happening. <S> Determining why the valve is opening (temperature, pressure, or some other reason), is the first step to diagnosing the problem. <S> Once you understand why the valve is opening, it will make it much easier to figure out the cause of the problem. <A> Relief valves discharge when the temperature or the pressure gets too high in the tank. <S> When the tank heats up water, the water will expand and the pressure will increase. <S> Pressure: <S> If there is no allowance within the system to absorb the increase in pressure such as an expansion tank or a thermal expansion valve and all the taps are closed, the relieve valve will open and discharge water until the pressure drops to below the setting of the relief valve. <S> This would most likely happen after a large amount of the tank was been used and it has to heat up the majority of the tank's volume. <S> Temperature: <S> This will cause the reloef valve to open and discharge water. <S> Simple Test: I would drain the tank empty and then refill it with cold water, allow it to fully heat the water backup to the set temperature. <S> Do not open any taps during this time as you don't want to release any pressure. <S> Once the water is fully heated, check the bucket for any new water. <A> I test the relief valve every six months, when I test smoke alarms et al. <S> I also flush the tank a bit by letting some what out from the bottom valve, if there is one. <S> I have done this ever since a tank blew out on me. <S> Removing the sediment seems to elongate the life. <S> In my last house my hwh lasted over 15 years, up until I sold the house. <S> I think it is still working, making it 18 years. <S> It was an AO Smith.
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If there is an issue with aquastat, the tank may over heat the water resulting in the temperature getting higher then that of the setting of the relief valve.
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What material can I use for this custom corner desk? I'm looking to make a custom desk. I'm trying to decide on a material for the desk's surface. I have a fair amount of tools and am familiar/experienced in cabinet making (though it's been awhile). I have not, but probably could do laminate. What gets me confused is the shape of my desired desk. It is roughly 4'x7' with multiple cutouts along the face. Cheaper is better, as long as it's functional and looks good. Laminate is an option, if I could face the edges well/cleanly. Something like carbon fiber or such would also work (the look, not the actual product.) Requirements: sturdy able to be mounted to wall without legs smooth/clean (writing surface) (will varnish if I have to, but tend to not be happy with varnish as a writing surface...too soft sometimes) either modern-black or rustic-burnt wood grain Done in Google Sketchup. (File available upon request) Possible options (from answers below): Coloured MDF -- Excellent option that I'm looking into Particle board with laminate -- Backup option Biscuit joined wood planks -- Only if I have to <Q> For an inexpensive and easy to work with material I would consider MDF. <S> In particular there is coloured MDF available. <S> The colour is throughout the board, not just painted on the surface, here's an example: <S> The benefit of this is that simply scratching the surface will not remove the colour. <S> It also gives the MDF a neat texture as the colour is not 100% solid. <A> Particle board with laminate. <S> Cut laminate <S> so it's a little larger, glue it on with contact cement and trim the edges with a router. <S> Cheap and durable. <S> + = <A> I built a very similar desk using A-grade birch finish ply. <S> It requires some careful jigsaw work for the corner part. <S> I faced it using hardwood planks, routed and sanded. <S> The entire desk was then urethaned, for a hard and durable finish. <A> It is relatively cheap and available at most hardware stores (at least around me FL/USA). <S> It is easily to cut and leaves clean edges. <S> either modern-black or rustic-burnt wood grain <S> For the modern look in black, what about rounding the front top edge fairly heavy (~3/8-1/2" radius) and using a black epoxy, that would leave you with a clean shine that would be durable. <S> You can buy spray epoxy paint (typically called appliance paint) but I have not had good success with it other touch up, I'd go with a brush on which are typically intended for concrete. <S> Depending on how you like it, you could do the under-shelving in white epoxy or a flat white to accent it. <S> sturdy <S> able to be mounted to wall without legs <S> Really depends on how much weight you expect to put on it, an alternative that you might hate <S> but I'll at least mention is a few large chrome legs to make the black top really pop.
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I'd prefer the MDF, like most options you have it would be available to be done in a single sheet/piece.
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Can different gauge wiring be used in the same circuit? I am extending a lighting and outlet circuit in a basement. The current setup has the following characteristics 15 amp. circuit breaker (200 amp service) 4 existing lighting fixtures using CFL bulbs (~ 20 W each) 1 existing double duplex outlet box (no regular appliance in use) 14/2 and 14/3 NM cabling (lighting switched, outlets not) throughout less than 100 ft of cabling so far I plan on adding three lighting fixtures (for LED spots, less than 20W each) and one duplex outlet. I will tap off one of the existing boxes to get both a switched and a constant hot line. Additional cabling will be less than 30 ft. Is there any reason I cannot use 12/2 and 12/3 NM cabling for this project (I happen to have some on hand)? Is there any practical benefit (e.g., less voltage drop in this small section of line)? Is there any disadvantage in doing so, other than higher cost of cabling and the slightly harder handling of thicker wires? If the cabling were concealed, would the presence of a 12 gauge wire in an outlet box or fixture convey something to an electrician or future DIYer that is misleading based on the existence of unseen 14 gauge wiring upstream? <Q> The OP has a great reason for using 12 ga. <S> wire. <S> He already has some on hand, so using it is cheaper than going to get new 14 ga. <S> wire. <S> It's perfectly safe to use it. <S> Don't worry about confusing future workers. <S> Then, if they have any brains / experience at all, they will see that there is 14 gauge wire hooked up to that 15 amp circuit breaker, so they will know not to upgrade it to a 20 amp breaker. <A> It is perfectly acceptable to use 12AWG, though I would, personally, choose not to. <S> 12AWG isn't required for the size of the circuit going from 14AWG to 12AWG confuses the use of the circuit by changing wire size -- future workers will see 12AWG and may make an assumption about the size of the circuit 12AWG is more expensive than 14AWG <S> 12AWG is more difficult to work with than 14AWG <A> It is perfectly acceptable to use 12 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit. <S> If the cabling were concealed, would the presence of a 12 gauge wire in an outlet box or fixture convey something to an electrician or future DIYer <S> that is misleading based on the existence of unseen 14 gauge wiring upstream? <S> It shouldn't, many older homes were wired with 12 gauge throughout. <S> Apart from that, it is actually explicitly allowed by code. <S> From the NEC: Table 210.24 Summary of Branch-Circuit Requirements <A> "explicitly allowed by code" <S> I think the term TAP is confusing. <S> In Part M of Article 410, Special Provisions for Flush and Recessed Fixtures, appears Section 410-67(c), which reads as follows: <S> (c) <S> Tap Conductors. <S> Tap conductors of a type suitable for the temperature encountered shall be permitted to run from the fixture terminal connection to an outlet box placed at least 1 foot (305 mm) from the fixture. <S> Such tap conductors shall be in suitable raceway or Type AC or MC cable of at least 18 inches (450 mm) but not more than 6 feet (1.83 m) in length. <S> Note that the 18-inches and 6-foot lengths are for the raceway (or cable sheath), not the conductor. <S> (The tap lengths in Sec. <S> 240-21 are for the conductors, not the raceways or cables.) <S> The other controversial matter in this Section is the use of the term “tap.” <S> Some believe that the high-temperature wire from the junction box to the fixture must have a lower ampacity than the branch circuit overcurrent protection rating, due to the definition of “tap” in Section 240-3(c), new in the 1999 NEC: As used in this article, a tap conductor is defined as a conductor, other than a service conductor that has overcurrent protection ahead of its point of supply, that exceeds the value permitted for similar conductors that are protected as described elsewhere in this section. <S> The “tap” referred to in Sec. <S> 410-67(c) is not the “tap” as defined in Sec. <S> 240-3(c), because that definition starts out with “as used in this article.” <S> Therefore the definition applies only in Article 240, and the tap in Art. <S> 410-67(c) need not have overcurrent protection greater than its ampacity. <S> As a matter of fact, where higher temperature insulation is required, these conductors probably have an ampacity greater than the rating of the branch circuit overcurrent protection. <S> There, now it's not confusing.
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I wouldn't use 12 gauge wire for the project for a few reasons: Your plan is perfectly fine. If they want to add something to the circuit, they will have to go turn off the circuit breaker first, and then they will see they are working with a 15 amp circuit.
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