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Use baseboard to conceal wires? I am not a carpenter (programmer actually), therefore I need to know if it is possible to conceal wires in a baseboard. Basically I want a combination of this And this But I don't want my entire house to look hideous. If it is possible, are there any off the shelf baseboards, or do I have to get a carpenter to custom make them? <Q> Yes it's definitely possible. <S> If you have carpeting you often can just push the wire under the baseboard in the gap left for the flooring. <S> Otherwise the most common option is to remove the baseboards, and then cut out a strip of drywall at the bottom of the wall. <S> You hide your wires in this channel, and then replace the baseboards. <S> Make sure that when nailing your baseboards back down that you don't hit any of the wires. <S> The above advice does not apply to line-voltage wiring but can be used for Telco wiring. <A> This would be suitable for a single Ethernet or coax. <S> Similarly you can groove the drywall behind, but it's messier. <S> You'll want prime paint after grooving to keep everything from falling apart. <S> Note that the baseboard area can be a source of air leakage into walls, and you can take the time when the baseboards are off to caulk the remaining junction. <S> As pictured you have hardwood floors, you must maintain a gap at the edges of hardwood to allow for thermal expansion. <S> High voltage power wires need to be armored, and this technique is only suitable for hiding conduit. <S> But in some cases you can relocate a transformer (for certain types of lighting) and bury the low voltage runs. <A> There is channel that you can run along the baseboard in place of the quarter round molding. <S> You paint to to match the baseboard or the quarter round (even cover it with wood-look contact paper) <S> and it isn't noticeable. <S> Here's an example: Qtr Round Baseboard Channel <S> Lots of variations on the idea: http://www.homedepot.com/s/channel+raceway?NCNI-5
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Yes, you can take the baseboard off, cut a groove in it on a table saw, and install low voltage cabling.
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How are equipment grounding conductors counted for determining conduit or junction box fill? Suppose one is doing junction box fill calculations for a typical NM-B installation such as the one shown below for a switch box with one normal and one three-way switch. Which of the wires count towards conductor fill? Section 314.16(B) of the 2011 NEC states (in part): 314.16(B)(1) Conductor Fill Each conductor that originates outside the box and terminates or is spliced within the box shall be counted once, and each conductor that passes through the box without splice or termination shall be counted once. Each loop or coil of unbroken conductor not less than twice the minimum length required for conductors in 300.14 shall be counted twice. The conductor fill shall be calculated using Table 314.16(B). A conductor, no part of which leaves the box, shall not be counted. and 314.16(B)(5) Equipment Grounding Conductor Fill Where one or more equipment grounding conductors or equipment bonding jumpers enters a box, a single volume allowance in accordance with Table 314.16(B) shall be made based on the largest equipment grounding conductor or equipment bonding jumper present in the box. Where an additional set of equipment grounding conductors, as permitted by 250.146(D), is present in the box, an additional volume allowance shall be made based on the largest equipment grounding conductor in the additional set. So how many conductors, and how many equipment grounding conductors are present in the box shown here? <Q> Please see this answer , for more detail. <S> Example Breakdown <S> In the example you've provided you have 12 if it's a box without internal clamps, and <S> 13 if it has internal clamps. <S> Current Carrying Conductors <S> Ungrounded <S> (hot) 4 Grounded (neutral) <S> 3 <S> ---------------------------------- <S> 7Equipment <S> Grounding Conductor <S> 1Clamps <S> (maybe) 1Devices 2 x2 ---------------------------------- <S> 4 <S> ----------------------------------Total 13 <A> It requires yet another section of the code, but I think you are actually low. <S> The EGC is clear - 1, at the biggest size, and done. <S> Current-carrying wires (hots and neutrals and travelers) count once per wire. <S> But I think there is another paragraph (or sentence) which indicates that a "device" in the box ALSO counts (2 each.) <S> From Tester101's resonse to another question <S> (but I think he's just quoting the code here) <S> Clamp Fill <S> If there are any internal cable clamps, add 1 (not 1 per, just 1). <S> Support Fittings Fill <S> If there are any luminaire studs or hickeys, add 1 (not 1 per, just 1). <S> Device or Equipment Fill <S> For each yoke or strap containing one or more devices, add 2. <S> So you have 8 count of wires, but 12 count (at least) of "fill units" - 13 if you have clamps. <A> Equipment Grounding Conductors aren't Conductors <S> In the maddening language of the NEC, this is true. <S> "Conductors" (generally) refers to non-grounds: meaning Ungrounded Conductors (hots which are not neutral but normally carry current) <S> Neutral, <S> whose NEC lawyer-name is "Grounded Conductor" and carries current <S> These two are called "conductors" because they carry current in normal operation. <S> The lawyer-name for neutral has driven me absolutely bat-crazy, because everyone goes "Oh! <S> You mean ground!" <S> No no, the "Grounded Conductor" is a conductor . <S> Ground isn't, that's why they call the Equipment Grounding, uhhhh, Conductor. <S> You can't fight in here. <S> This is the War Room!
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Basically if you have equipment grounding conductors enter the box, you add 1 fill unit.
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Can I connect a portable generator to a subpanel to backfeed my house? I have a portable 6500 W generator. I have a main house electrical panel and a subpanel in my garage, which are on opposite sides of the house. My subpanel is on the outside wall of my garage. The main panel feeds the subpanel. I would like to connect the generator to the subpanel which would then feed the main panel and then I can decide which breaker (main breaker-OFF) to shut off and which to keep on. Can this be done? What do I need and how do I do it? <Q> NO. <S> You'll likely end up backfeeding the grid, which can easily lead to linemen being injured or killed. <S> A generator should never be connected to the electrical system without a proper transfer switch being installed. <A> I don't see any way this could be done safely, to code, etc. <S> Problem being there's no way to interlock the MAIN and the Generator if they are on different panels. <S> Without an interlock, it's quite simply not safe <S> (and in a more nuanced view, if the power company becomes aware of it you may not get your power turned back on - <S> they REALLY <S> don't like that.) <S> The fact that you say you will turn it off is just not good enough. <S> If the service folks are in your area restoring power and they hear a generator running, they very often WILL come check. <S> It IS possible to have a generator input to the main panel, if the panel manufacturer has an interlock kit for the purpose - I have one. <S> It is not physically possible for the MAIN and the Generator to both be turned on at the same time. <S> The only way you could have it go into the sub-panel <S> would be if the sub-panel was interlocked to disconnect from the main panel <S> , so you absolutely cannot feed the main from the sub, no way, <S> no how. <S> The generator is portable - when you need it, move it, and provide enough cord from a proper interlocked input on the main panel to connect to it. <S> Or, run new wire all the way to where you want it outside the garage. <A> Similar to throwing the main breaker and plugging the generator into household outlets, there is simply no way to make it safe. <S> It's not done because it cannot be done safely. <S> It's not as expensive or as much work as you might think, and it provides provably safe power from the generator to all of the house. <S> There is no other safe way to do this. <A> I work in electrical sales at a large home improvement store. <S> Besides the aforementioned main panel breaker interlock device we also carry a (Siemens) breaker interlock which can be used with two 240 volt (double) breakers back-to-back in a sub panel. <S> One breaker is the sub main fed from the main panel, and the other is the sub main fed from the generator. <S> With the approved device only one breaker can be actuated at a time. <S> Only the circuits that will be handled by the generator are included in the sub panel. <S> The feeders from those circuits are spliced in the main panel and fed to the sub panel. <S> When the power goes out the user has only to switch the sub main assembly to the generator, start the generator and proceed to power up the branch circuits. <S> An effort must be made to properly balance the loads between the two busses of the panel. <S> Technically splicing circuits in a main panel violates the NEC, but it is a common practice, and most inspectors will pass such an installation. <S> In reality, the commercially made generator sub panels must be hooked up the same way.
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If you want to connect your generator to the outside of the garage (don't operate it inside the garage) then you simply need to install a transfer switch at the main panel, and run a length of cable from the transfer switch to the generator location. There is no way to do this safely, and it's certainly against code.
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Is is safe to plug a surge protector into a 2-prong outlet using a 3-to-2-prong adapter? I live in an apartment that has essentially no 3-prong electrical outlets. I need to plug in a modest amount of computer equipment (which has a mix of 2- and 3-prong plugs), and I want to plug this equipment into surge protectors. Physically, I can accomplish this using cheap 3- to 2-prong adapters, but is that safe? In part, my question is, what happens when a surge protector does its thing? One plausible scenario is that it dumps the excess energy into the ground conductor, which seems like it could pose a much worse problem than damaged equipment if that ground is poor or nonexistent. This is in Colorado if that matters. These questions seem related but don't directly answer the surge protector safety question: What to do with an apartment with only 2-pronged outlets How do I use three-prong appliances when my outlets are mostly two-prong? Is it unsafe if some three prong outlets don't properly test as grounded? <Q> According to howstuffworks.com the most common type of surge protectors contain a metal oxide varistor or a gas discharge arrestor that utilizes the grounding wire to divert extra current. <S> However, as others have commented, the neutral wire is usually also used in conjunction with the ground, and therefore, you should get some, but not full protection when bypassing the 3rd prong. <S> the manufactures insurance will not cover damages caused as a result of such use. <A> The common 2 to 3 prong adapter has a screw tab, usually colored green. <S> This is meant to go under the cover plate screw. <S> Why? <S> There was a narrow period of time where a grounded wire was used, but outlets were still 2 prong. <S> Thus it's possible the center screw on the outlet actually is grounded. <S> If so the best thing is to install grounded plugs, but since you're renting, you can just use the 2 to 3 prong adapter. <A> A good option is a "whole house" surge protector, which is very easy to install <S> (See a guide I wrote at http://guides.obviously.com/Whole-House-Surge-Protectors/1482 ). <S> It won't add a third prong to your plugs, but at modest cost for your landlord will protect his house (e.g. protect his sump pump, dishwasher, light bulbs, etc.). <S> That's what you tell him. <S> And it will protect your computers. <S> As for the point of use strips: it's true most will have three protection devices arranged in a triangle. <S> But keep in mind neutral and ground are connected together at the panel anyway. <S> From a surge point of view the 2-prong is not all that bad. <S> But point of use protection is not enough anyway, not in areas that actually have lightning. <S> An "online" UPS can be a good substitute. <S> But the best protection is to have both a whole house unit and point of use protection. <S> Note: you have very little to worry about with computer equipment and the third prong ground: I rip the 3rd prong off most laptop supplies for example, as I know it goes essentially nowhere.
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That said, it's never considered safe to use bypass the 3rd prong (even with 2 to 3 prong adapters) and it is likely your insurance /
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Do modern washers heat the water if below cycle temp? As my house is currently without hot water (heater broken), I am curious if my washer has a heating element to regulate the water temp if what comes out of the pipes is below the cycle required temperature. I would like to wash some underwear as I have no clean left but would like to use a warm cycle. I was told that it is OK to use my dishwasher with incoming cold water because the DW has a heating element to regulate the water temp, it will just take longer. But I was wondering if a modern clothes washer will do the same. <Q> It would be rare indeed, and obviously it would matter what your specific brand and model was. <S> In general, assume no. <S> If you want a warm-water wash with a broken hot water heater, heat up some water on the stove and pour it in as the machine is filling. <S> On the other hand, you might find that you can get perfectly decent results with cold water. <A> European washers (low water usage models) (typically of the front load variety) can heat water (like some dishwashers). <S> If you have a US branded model, its doubtful it heats the cold water internally. <A> There are a few European and Korean models that have instant water heaters (which use a lot of current which you may not have) but perhaps due to the massive current demands of instantly heating water, these heaters are often "helper heaters" apparently, for a warm wash, or increase the temperature warm water. <S> I have not come across word of a washing machine with a non instant water heating method, due perhaps to the problems of having a heating element in the drum with your clothes. <S> Hold on the Frigidaire Affinity has only a 1000W heater. <S> This is low for an instant water heater such as on a shower which tend to have more than 4000 watts to get to typical shower temperatures and pressures. <S> Perhaps the Affinity fills very slowly, or cycles the water through the heater more than once. <S> In Japan almost everyone washes in cold water, with the exception of those that re-use their bath water while it is still hot. <S> The bath water even if reused, is generally re-used the next morning when it is cold. <S> The Japanese sweat less than Westerners. <S> But if you use a biological washing powder and leave your wash to soak you can have the same effect on organic dirt (such as sweat) as you can in a hot wash, without doing the damage to your clothes that hot washes can do. <S> Hot water tends to damage elastic for instance. <S> Try a long wash cycle or soak if you have that setting with a biological powder ( <S> assuming it does not bring you out in rash :-o ).
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As Ecnerwal says, generally speaking washing machines do not have heaters, but take the hot from the hot water from the hot hose.
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How can I eliminate condensation on my toilet tank? My toilet is getting a great deal of condensation on the tank and dripping onto the floor. What can be done to address condensation on the exterior of a toilet tank? <Q> When warm moist air comes in contact with a cold surface condensation forms. <S> There used to be these tank liners sold that you would install on the inside of the tank to insulate it. <S> It keeps the outside of the tank from getting as cold to reduce or eliminate condensation. <S> I did a quick search and couldn't find it anymore. <S> I did however find toilet tanks that come with insulation already installed. <S> See http://www.homedepot.com/p/KOHLER-Memoirs-Classic-1-28-GPF-Toilet-Tank-Only-with-Insuliner-Tank-Only-Liner-in-White-K-4433-U-0/203006152 <S> # <S> The liners were just sheets of styrofoam. <S> I guess you could get some styrofoam and cut it to fit. <S> You'd have to cut the kits anyway. <S> Then glue it to the side and bottom of the tank. <S> Going with a tank that's already insulated would be a lot easier. <A> While it is not a simple solution, one method of ensuring that toilet tanks do not sweat is the use of a mixing valve on the water feed to the tank. <S> These valves mix hot with cold water to feed warm water to the tank. <S> Warm water prevents condensation. <S> The valve only needs to be set once unless you significantly change the temperature of your water heater. <S> This is usually done when the toilet is being installed, but it can be retrofitted if you can get access water lines and there is also a hot water line near the riser to the toilet. <S> Images and links are for illustrative purposes only and are not an endorsement <A> There are at least four strategies: <S> Decrease the relative humidity of the air around the toilet tank. <S> Increase the temperature of the tank. <S> Prevent the air around the tank from contacting the tank. <S> Accept the condensation. <S> Put a catchment underneath the tank. <S> Decrease the relative humidity with a dehumidifier in the room. <S> Also, heating the air around the toilet decreases the air's relative humidity while simultaneously increasing the tank's temperature. <S> Strategy #2 could be done with @bib's solution for heating the water. <S> Or you could skip the mixer and run straight hot water to the tank (with no cold feed). <S> Or you could rig some kind of heater in the tank. <S> An electric solution seems replete with concerns but maybe a circulating radiant system exists at the location? <S> @OrganicLawnDIY's answer is one way of implementing strategy #3. <A> I read on another site a successful solution for heating the tank was to use an aquarium heater.
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Another method would be to insulate the outside of the tank.
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What do you call this thick washer-type part? I have been going through many parts that I have recently gotten ahold of. However, I don't know what many are or what they do. I ran into this steel part: It is 0.565 in tall, with an inner diameter of 0.25 in and an outer diameter of 1.25 in. I'm not sure if it is a thick spacer, a tall washer, or something entirely different. Does anyone know exactly what it is or what it is for? <Q> <A> Looks like a brass spacer to me: <S> I think it would be impossible to say with any certainty exactly what it's meant for without seeing where it came from. <A> As @Johnny has stated the top photo appears to be a spacer made of a nonferrous material or plated. <S> The bottom photo shows what is commonly called a fender washer. <S> A fender washer has an outside diameter larger than a standard washer of the same inside diameter. <S> The larger size allows it spread the clamping load over a larger surface preventing damage to the surface of the pieces being bolted together. <A> It looks like a spacer/ bushing. <S> I am searching for a similar one to allow a part to rotate freely inside the outer diameter of this spacer. <S> Instead of the part being pressed by the bolt, the bolt presses on this spacer. <S> The part is slid on to this spacer prior to getting the bolt through. <S> The part should be thinner in height than the spacer to allow rotation.
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Could be a bushing, or "plain bearing" . Though it could be some sort of brass (or steel, as indicated by the asker) roller like you might find in something like a laser printer (if they still used metal parts in laser printers instead of plastic).
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How should I vent bathroom exhaust fans in an old brick house with slate roof? I recently moved into an old brick house (slate roof), containing several bathrooms without vents. It's a problem that I've been wanting to correct, though I've put it off because I'm not sure if knocking a hole in either the brick wall or slate roof is worth the hassle (esp. with respect to what I want from the system). Since the fan's purpose is to move air out to remove humidity and odors, are there any fans out there that push the air through some type of replaceable desiccant to remove moisture, and charcoal to de-odor, so the air could be released back into the attic instead of the outdoors? To me, this seems like a reasonable option, considering I wouldn't have to worry about making holes in my bricks/roof (not to mention it eliminates the possibility of cold outdoor air flowing back in, which I hear is a problem even with dampered vents). Has anyone seen or used any such exhaust fans (do they exist)? With respect to outdoor venting, the only option I can see, since it's a walk-up attic with small windows on the gable ends, might be to cut a circular opening in the glass that just fit the vent pipe (with damper from the other questions I've read) and finding a way to seal it properly might be an option (which means never opening the window). Is this an acceptable way to go about this? Any suggestions and best practices for this old house would be appreciated! <Q> You could use one of these as a disposable hole saw for $20: Or one of these as the "right" tool, which will be reusable for $75: <S> Most hole saws require a 1/2 inch drill plus a ~$10 arbor, both of which will be very useful for other projects in the future, like installing door knob sets in new doors, installing plumbing, ductwork, plenums, and all kinds of projects in plywood, sheet metal, lumber, plastics, etc. <S> When making the hole, take care to slant it slightly downward ( <S> 2%—1/4 inch per foot—is typical) toward the outside to prevent rain, etc. <S> from finding a path indoors. <S> Install a vent device with a damper to prevent hot/cold air from coming inside when the fan is not on, and seal the hole at the outside surface thoroughly with silicon caulk. <S> Slate can be cut by this type of blade too, but holes through the roof are often fussier to make leak free. <A> I don't see how a desiccant could possibly remove moisture rapidly enough to be helpful, and it also just traps the moisture instead of getting rid of it. <S> Once the desiccant is saturated it won't absorb any more moisture (or it will just release it back into the attic — the whole problem you're trying to avoid). <S> If you have a window opening already, that may be your best bet. <S> I assume you will have to remove part or all of the window to build an exhaust — just cutting a hole in the glass sounds fragile and leak-prone. <A> If you have access to the attic, another alternative is to vent through the eaves. <S> You just have to make sure you get a damper designed for facing down or install the damper in a horizontal stretch of duct. <A> There is no quicker way to remove odors or moisture than a properly ducted exhaust fan. <S> Surprisingly enough, it is not that difficult to break a hole through the brick and duct it out the side wall of the house, especially if you have a rotary hammer. <S> Ducting through the attic is no issue either as long as if you are in a area that has cold winter climates, you will need to insulate the duct passing through any unconditioned space (the attic). <S> You would also have to duct the exhaust fan right out of the attic through the roof. <S> If the exhaust is piped directly into the attic you will have numerous moisture and mold issues especially if living in an area with cold climates. <S> There is a slightly more efficient way to remove humidity and odors. <S> You can utilize a HRV or Heat Recovery Ventilator. <S> What this does is remove humidity and odors from the air as well as expelling stale air from the house, and bringing in fresh air from outside thus ventilating the structure as well. <S> Most HRV's also have a recirculation feature which will recirculate and remove humidity from the air without exchanging any air with outside of the structure. <S> They are the manufacturer of a popular HRV make here in Canada (Vanee) and have great build quality, along with functionality and serviceability. <A> Slate's actually quite easy to work with, don't take that off the table. <S> Cutting a hole in brick is no big deal. <S> Under eave vents could work, depending. <S> Chemical desiccant, however, won't work, as the moisture will never leave the building. <S> You closest option is to distribute the moisture more evenly through the entire house through the HVAC system, but even that could readily raise the interior humidity too high. <S> A mechanical dehumidifier is a possibility, but only with a drain line. <A> If you have a 'cold roof' you can vent a 4" fan into the roof space, provided its large enough. <S> My former flat ran with the arrangement in place for many years. <S> If there is a window have you considered a simple plastic ventilation fan or one of the motorised window varieties?
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A dehumidifier with a drain in the attic near the exhaust outlet would be a somewhat better alternative, but even that is not going to keep the moisture from condensing in the winter. Cutting a hole through brick is no big deal. If you will be looking into one of these units i will recommend Venmar.
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How can I check for electricity theft? My electrical bill is very high despite less usage. I fear there is electrical theft used by my landlord. How can i check this? The meter is under lock and access provided only on request. Please suggest possible ways to check it. <Q> The only way to verify is to check the meter over a time period (at least an hour, longer is better) with everything shut off. <S> If the meter changes, then something else is drawing power. <A> Possible explanations for high electricity usage: <S> Failing appliance (e.g. refrigerator that runs more often) Arcing wires (this is a fire risk, but without AFCI's may not trip the breaker) <S> Seasonal changes <S> (AC in the summer, electric heaters and holiday lights in the winter) <S> Theft (either before or after the breakers) <S> To check for theft, start by checking the electricity usage of every device and compare to the meter rate. <S> From there it's a process of elimination. <S> If the meter stops, then turn on breakers one by one and compare the usage of that circuit that you measured with what the meter shows. <S> This will identify the circuit that is using excessive power. <S> Then once the circuit is located, turn off all devices on that circuit to see it's a problem with a known device or if there's something unknown using power on the circuit. <S> If it's a known device, double check every device when it's used individually against what the meter measures. <S> If it's an unknown device, trace the circuit or consider disconnecting the line/load connection in the circuit to locate the device. <A> Ask your landlord to let you see it at the beginning of the rate period. <S> Tell him you think your refrigerator is using too much electricity <S> and you want to track it. <S> Let him/her see you write down the reading from the meter. <S> Tell them you'll want to see it again in 30 days. <S> This may scare them enough to disconnect. <S> You'll know if your next bill has a noticeable drop. <S> In a couple of months, if it goes up again, ask the electric company to check it. <S> Let them catch him. <S> Keep in mind, if you're wrong you're going to pay for their visit.
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If the meter is registering more usage than you have devices for, then shutoff all the breakers.
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What's behind my drywall? I live in an apartment in NYC, built in 1973. I'm trying to mount something to the wall which requires two screws placed 5 inches apart vertically. I used a stud finder to find a vertical stud in the wall (3 inches across), but when I drilled it went in an inch before encountering a hard surface. Definitely not wood. I applied pressure and drilled, and it finally "broke through" in a matter of seconds, and it felt like there was nothing behind that. I tried screwing in a screw, and it gets to the 1 inch point before making a metallic grinding noise -- I'm assuming what I drilled through was some sort of metal plate. The screw definitely "threads" (if screwed in, it cannot be screwed out), but it's very loose and unable to be tightened. So, what is this vertical thing behind my drywall? How can I mount things to it? <Q> but when I drilled it went in an inch before encountering a hard surface. <S> Definitely not wood. <S> I applied pressure and drilled, and it finally "broke through" in a matter of seconds <S> This could be bad depending on what you actually drilled through. <S> Why could this be bad? <S> If it was a metal plate installed to protect electrical wires, a wire itself, or if you drilled into a pipe <S> *. <S> You probably can't be sure until you take a look. <S> I would carefully try to cut a larger hole through the drywall. <S> You can possibly replace the square you removed. <S> You should do this using a drywall knife, or another sharp knife that allows you to make clean and controlled cuts. <S> If you're not that handy, it might be better to leave it as is, as you don't want to hurt yourself or do more damage. <S> Once you know what's there, then it's easier to suggest what to do next. <A> Because it only takes a few seconds to drill through, is only about three inches wide, and runs vertically, <S> It sounds like it's a metal stud (as you've found out). <S> Metal studs are not as strong as wood studs when hanging stuff, but the one meal stud, along with the strength of the drywall should be enough to carry 20+ pounds. <S> If it were approaching 40+ pounds, it would be better to span two metal studs. <S> I've had the best experience hanging items on metal studs with toggle bolts . <S> Get the two smallest toggle bolts you can find that are: 1. <S> Rated for at least 40 pounds each, 2. <S> Long enough to go through the drywall and studs. <S> You want to put the toggle bolt through the drywall and stud. <S> Find the center of your metal stud and drill a 1/8 inch hole at the height where your mount is going. <S> Then, make the hole progressively larger until the toggle fits through. <S> Then, just follow the instructions that came with the bolts as if you were putting them just through drywall. <A> Use wood to reinforce and strengthen. <S> Many hardware stores will sell decorative beveled hardwood that could easily be screwed using several (or many, depending on the needs) screws along a suitable length of the stud, which would hold the wood securely in place, so that mounting your bike hanger can be more secure with it's own mounting options. <S> If it requires two holes, 5 inches apart along the same stud, then I would recommend something like a 1/2" - 3/4" thick wood "plaque" about 10"-12" tall, using about four anchor bolts evenly spaced down the middle, or optionally, a flat, asymmetrical length of quality (1/2" or thicker) hardwood molding the full height of the wall (floor to ceiling), which could allow for using common metal-stud "drywall screws" to strengthen and secure to the stud at about every 4".
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Then mount your bike holder to the center of that, making sure the screws or bolts are completely through both the molding and the stud. It might be a good idea to open up the hole enough to see what is there, but do it without drilling and do it carefully. If you can cut a clean square around the area it will make it easy to fix, as you can cut a square of drywall and use it as a patch for the area you removed. Metal studs are just thin sheet metal that has added strength only by their shape. Even anchors and toggle bolts can easily rip out of them easily or over time. Depending on how big the mounting holes for bicycle rack are, you may need to pick up some washers too.
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can I install a new thermostat by just turning off the power instead of turining off the circuit breaker? Can I install a new thermostat by just turning the power off at the servicemen's switch, instead of at the breaker? <Q> Yes, but I would test the voltage at all the thermostat connections before proceeding. <S> use an insulated screwdriver. <S> Some thermostat systems operate at safe low voltages (e.g 24 V) <S> but in some countries, it is common for thermostats to be switching dangerous voltages (e.g. 120 or 240 V) <S> so changing a thermostat needs to be handled with as much care as changing a light switch or lamp fitting. <A> Yes. <S> In fact, that's what it's there for. <S> If I remember correctly, code calls for the disconnect for a furnace to be within view of the furnace in some situations. <S> National Electrical Code 2011 Article 422 <S> Appliances III. <S> Disconnecting Means 422.31 Disconnection of Permanently Connected Appliances. <S> (B) <S> Appliances Rated over 300 Volt-Amperes. <S> For permanently connected appliances rated over 300 volt-amperes, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance or is capable of being locked in the open position. <S> The provision for locking or adding a lock to the disconnecting means shall be installed on or at the switch or circuit breaker used as the disconnecting means and shall remain in place with or without the lock installed. <S> (C) Appliances Rated over 1⁄8 Horsepower. <S> For permanentlyconnected appliances rated over 1⁄8 hp, the branch-circuit switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to serve as the disconnecting means where the switch or circuit breaker is within sight from the appliance. <S> The disconnecting means shall comply with Sections 430.109 and 430.110. <A> In very, very rare cases some thermostats are powered off a transformer to give it continuous 24v. <S> Normally on old furnaces where this is the case they will wire the transformer after the furnace service switch. <S> However i have found in some cases (of utter stupidity) <S> technicians have wired the transformer off of a different electrical source. <S> The other case is on certain new style communicating thermostats. <S> These use a wireless signal to communicate with the furnace. <S> In some cases a transformer is used from a different electrical source to power it so that a wire is not needed from the furnace to the thermostat. <S> The only real risk with 24v would be accidentally touching 2 wires and running something, blowing the fuse on the control board of the furnace, or a mild shock. <S> In other very rare cases i have found furnaces with hidden service switches, or older furnaces that never had service switches. <S> If the house has an old nob and tube style electrical panel (that takes fuses) it is normally easier to carefully remove the R wire off the thermostat first and put electrical tape over the bare part of the wire. <S> Then put the R wire on the new thermostat last. <S> As a technician, this is what i will usually do myself when changing thermostats. <S> It is not a preference of mine, but it saves me the time of locating the furnace room, finding the switch, and maneuvering through any debris between me and the switch. <S> The R wire is the only wire that carries continuous power (24v) <S> Remember that if a thermostat is controlling baseboard heat, it is almost always 120v and should never be attempted live. <S> As stated above, a multimeter is always a useful tool to have.
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Yes, shutting the service switch off will de-energize the thermostat, in most situations.
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What should I do if my vacuum trips my AFCI device? I have a vacuum that trips the AFCI device of the circuit that services my bedroom. The vacuum has some age on it, and there is some wear on the motor's commutator. This wear causes electrical arcing which, to the AFCI device, looks to be approaching an unsafe condition. It is not an unsafe condition, however, because the arching is internal to the motor and the wear is part of the motor's design. This knowledge, along with the fact that it sucks dirt really well, leads me to the conclusion that the vacuum is functioning properly. The AFCI device has been engineered to detect the type of arcing caused by electric motors. Although it occasionally trips when my older vacuum is in use, it does not trip when my neighbor's new vacuum is plugged into the bedroom circuit. The device trips when it senses a potentially dangerous (although not dangerous) arc in my older vacuum, but also is able to distinguish the arc caused by by my neighbor's vacuum as from a motor and not dangerous. This information leads me to beleive that the AFCI device is functioning properly. Should I get rid of the vacuum? I don't want to do this, because it sucks up dirt really well. Also, if I get a new one, it will wear in a year or two and cause the same problem. Should I get rid of the AFCI device? I don't want to do that, because I want protection from fires and it is required by NEC. <Q> However, if the vacuum is overloading the circuit, no filter will help. <S> When I run my vacuum sweeper / paper shredder / treadmill / etc. <S> it trips my AFCI. <S> Eaton’s AFCI has been designed to work with devices with motors that are within the FCC standard for noise. <S> Even though these devices have been manufactured to the FCC’s standards, after frequent use wear within the motor can create noise which trips the AFCI. <S> To mitigate the noise generated by these devices, you may use a surge plug or surge strip From Eaton AFCI frequently asked questions (pdf) <A> Run a 12 gauge extension cord to a non-AFCI circuit. <S> Or really rip your house apart and put in a central vacuum. <A> You can have the motor on your vacuum serviced. <S> Either by a professional or by yourself. <S> Here is a something I found that describes some of the conditions to look for. <S> ( It is chapter one of a general maintenance guide ) <S> Be sure brushes are properly seated, move freely in the holders and are not too short. <S> The brush spring pressure must be equal on all brushes. <S> Be <S> sure spring pressure is not too light or too high. <S> Large motors with adjustable springs should be set at about 3 to 4 pounds per square inch of brush surface in contact with the commutators. <S> Remove dust that can cause a short between brush holders and frame. <S> Check lead connections to the brush holders. <S> Loose connections cause overheating. <S> Look for obvious commutator problems: <S> Any condition other than a polished, brown surface under the brushes indicates a problem. <S> Severe sparking causes a rough blackened surface. <S> An oil film, paint spray, chemical contamination and other abnormal conditions can cause a blackened or discolored surface and sparking. <S> Streaking or grooving under only some brushes or flat and burned spots can result from a load mismatch and cause motor electrical problems. <S> Grooved commutators should be removed from service. <S> A brassy appearance shows excessive wear on the surface resulting from low humidity or wrong brush grade. <S> High mica or high or low commutator bars make the brushes jump, causing sparking. <S> There are more things to check on that page. <S> You really need to weigh the price to have it serviced ( either in terms of time or cash ), vs the price of a new one. <S> That is assuming that servicing it would allow it to run without tripping the breaker. <S> I would say that unless it is a really good vacuum; I would just live with it, replace it, or add a EMI filter as stated in another answer.
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Carbon dust, copper foil or other conductive dust in the slots between commutator bars causes shorting and sometimes sparking between bars. Look for obvious brush and brush holder deficiencies: Plugging the vacuum into a surge suppressor with EMI filtering, should prevent the vacuum from tripping the breaker.
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Does it make sense to paint floors prior to installing laminate flooring? I am building a new home & am taken aback by all of the never ending dust. Does it make sense to paint the subfloors prior to installing the flooring, in order to seal the dust. We have swept & vacuumed repeatedly, yet the constant drywall & grout dust persists. <Q> I have always painted my own subfloors. <S> My reasoning is that what ever finished floor material I use will be more easily removed if the subfloor is painted. <S> The carpet underlayment/pad doesn't stick as firmly, Press and stick vinyl tiles <S> adhere better. <A> Putting in engineered flooring in our 39-year-old colonial home in MI with a basement. <S> 1) Plan to Kilz/paint the 3/4" plywood sub-floor to try to reduce any moisture that may migrate up from the higher humidity in the basement.2) <S> Also think the paint will provide a slicker surface for the expansion and contraction of the flooring and the cushion under the flooring as humidity changes a lot in Michigan throughout the year. <S> Peace, MI licensed builder. <A> One reason to not paint them would be to reduce the level VOC's in your home.
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My biggest reason is spills are less likely to penetrate into the plywood and cause odor or mold issues later.
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Is a porch just a deck with a roof? I'm thinking about building a back porch but I've never had experience with such a big project. I'm finding plenty of books and documents on how to build a deck but very few about building a porch. Is a porch just a deck with a roof or is there more to it? <Q> It depends. <S> (Notice how many of our answers begin like that?) <S> A deck is a structure, usually attached to a building, that supports people and furniture in a somewhat open area. <S> As some comments point out, because deck flooring is exposed to weather, there are generally drainage gaps in the floor. <S> As also stated, porches often have tight floors since little water/snow lands on them to need drainage. <S> But there are numerous variations on porches, and these have a significant bearing on their construction. <S> Weight - <S> The foundation of the porch structure needs to be able to support the roof and a possible snow load (depending on your location) and wind shear force (again depending on your location). <S> Drainage - Unless the porch is fully enclosed with walls and windows (at which point it is approaching an unheated room), you need some drainage to allow rain or snow that comes in form the sides to exit. <S> This has a bearing on how you structure the edges of the roof and the edges of the deck. <S> You may need gutters, weep holes or other moisture diverters. <S> Sides - These may be fully open, railed, screened, partially walled or even windowed-in. <S> All of these factors have bearing on the construction details, the weight bearing system and the drainage. <S> Lighting - You need to consider whether you need additional lighting if a roof is added. <S> Decks generally have only peripheral lighting, but porches often have ceiling lighting as well. <S> Ventilation <S> - A porch may need additional circulation and fans are often used, not usually found on decks. <S> Codes - There may be different permits and regulations depending on whether the structure is considered a deck or porch. <S> You need to check with your local building authority. <A> Sort of. <S> A porch is directly connected to a building, almost always outside a doorway and at interior floor height. <S> It is covered. <S> The porch floor is usually concrete, brick, or other rock, but it could be wood. <S> From Wikipedia : There are various styles of porches, all of which depend on the architectural tradition of its location. <S> All porches will allow for sufficient space for a person to comfortably pause before entering or after exiting the building. <S> However, they may be larger. <S> Verandahs, for example, are usually quite large and may encompass the entire façade as well as the sides of a structure. <A> in my opinion its as folks here have said,they are basically the same thing with a roof but with a little bit different approach on the design on the flooring also yea may have a different approach with zoning details too.a tent is still a tent if its made from blue plastic or canvas,when inviting folks to come and sit on the deck and have a BBQ they may have a chat with yea if you have to open windows to let the smoke out of (the porch)just saying.
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A porch is generally a deck-like space with a roof, attached to a building.
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Can I run PEX through PVC pipe embedded in a concrete floor with radiant heating? I'm building a new home in New York State. It will be slab on grade with radiant heat in floor. I'm going to run the domestic water supply (PEX tube) to each bathroom, sinks, toilets etc. in the concrete but inside of 1-1/4" PVC pipe in the concrete. Are there any problems with this approach? <Q> I can see two things to be concerned with. <S> 1) Is the 1-1/4" PVC pipe of sufficient size to permit you to pull out the old and replace new PEX tubing if that should ever be required in the future? <S> 2) Make sure that the PVC pipe does not detract from the thickness of your slab to the extent that it would weaken the concrete and lead to a potential crack path. <S> Cross wire mesh and re-bar in the concrete will help a lot but consider some additional thickness in areas where the pipe is embedded. <A> Be concerned about Rat & mount entry points. <S> Bends, that make replacement of pipe in the future impossible. <S> Thickness of concrete both above and below the 1-1/4" conduit pipe, along with any steel rebar discontinuities. <S> Keep in mind concrete should flow freely around all steel, and steel wedged against your conduit pipe won't function as it should. <S> Entry points for termites. <A> You are putting radiant heat (PEX) directly in the floor. <S> As such I don't see any advantage to putting the plumbing PEX in a sleeve, and the disadvantages are being pointed out by other answers. <S> If you are particularly paranoid about the plumbing for some reason, run double lines to everything and cap one of them at both ends to serve as a spare. <S> Wrap the sill seal around the pipe for about two feet (one foot either side) of planned expansion joints.
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In addition, you can wrap and tape sill seal around all the pipes at any point where there will be an expansion joint (it cushions the pipe just a bit if the concrete cracks and moves), and toss in a bit more reinforcing steel than the bare minimum that will be specified.
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What should I know before having bathroom fixtures installed? I recently removed the old towel rack in the bathroom (which was badly installed because it left huge holes inside and the rack was hanging and I had to literally tug it out, which took me ages!) and an old toilet roll paper holder. I filled up the holes with Selley's putty, sanded it and have painted both toilet and bathroom. Now I want to attach three fixtures: a rack, roll holder and a wooden rack above the toilet to hang a basket as a space saver. I am terrified it will not be drilled in properly and want some advice before I call a handyman. This way I can't be cheated out of $100 with a damaged wall and I know what is happening. Any advice would be good. One wall is drywall with an external wall on the other side and the roll holder and rack need to be attached on drywall. <Q> Sounds like you pulled out some butterfly anchors instead of unscrewing them, or even large molly type. <S> What I do in situations like this is to install a decorative BOARD behind the towel rack or toilet paper holder, on the surface of the drywall, which screws directly into studs. <S> This can simply be a piece of 1X4 with routed or finished edges, or baseboard or crown molding in 3 inch or larger width, painted white or the wall color. <S> If desired, continue around the room at a single height, making this look like a standard feature similar to the top of chair rail decoration. <S> Install this with screws long enough to reach into the studs behind the drywall, I typically use 3 inch long self drilling screws. <S> If you don't want the screw heads to show, spackle over them or use caulk before painting. <S> The baseboard or molding typically can be found in 3 inch or larger widths, cut to length as needed, providing enough room to install the racks or fixtures on it. <S> The racks can then can screw into this. <S> This eliminates any unsightly holes or bad patching that might be present, as the board goes right over them. <S> Studs are typically 16 inches on center, use a stud finder to locate them. <S> The exception would be a block wall behind the drywall, which probably would have furring strips holding it up. <S> You'd then be able to use a drill and concrete anchors with longer screws to hold up either the board, or the racks themselves. <A> On the wall with drywall in front of the external wall, if that external wall is concrete you may have to use a wall anchor such as a tapcon or something similar to secure the rack to the wall. <S> For more details, check out this question of me wanting to do the same thing. <S> For the drywall only wall, you can get by with basic drywall anchors, if you're not (or can't because of location) drill directly into a stud behind the drywall. <S> This is because screwing directly to just drywall alone isn't really secure, and a not so soft 'tug' or multiple tugs may loosen your screws over time, sagging your racks, looking awful (you may have seen that before). <S> Anchors prevent this, in different ways. <S> Some expand when the real screw is screwed end, others have wider threads. <S> As long as you use an anchor with a decent weight rating (25lbs should be fine, no one is doing chinups off of your towel rack), it'll be around for a while. <S> I'll also say follow the directions provided with the anchors. <S> Some require a pre-drilled hole, some don't. <S> The ones that do usually provide <S> A drill bit <S> Instructions for the specific size hole to be drilled, then they can be pushed or gently hammered into the hole. <S> After that, screw the screws for your rack directly into the anchor. <S> You may have to use the screws that came with the anchor or the size screw that the anchor instructions specified, or you may get away with the screws that came with your rack. <S> If those screws are the 'pretty' ones or will be seen when the rack is installed, you may want to get anchors that are sized for screws close to the ones you'll be using. <S> This sounds complicated, but it's really not. <S> The main thing is attention to detail and prepwork, as mentioned above. <S> My guess is that from all the trouble you went through to get the old ones off, they might have done the same thing. <A> I'd suggest either using an anchor as suggested above, or possibly buying a rack that you can screw right into any studs, which clearly you'd have to find.
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For the toilet paper holder, if the board is attached by screws into one stud firmly, and the other end is installed with butterfly anchors, it should never come off the wall.
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What is a reasonably economical way to heat a basement bathroom? I have a basement bathroom (roughly 8' x 4') that corners two outside walls, and has no heat vent. Months like this it's ice cold. I'd like to heat it up, just not sure how, outside of running a space heater unattended (!). I use the bathroom quite often so a spending a little money is worth it. It's on the opposite end of the house from the furnace, and the closest vent is just outside the door in the laundry area. I'm pretty handy, so I should be able to handle most diy solutions. <Q> A space heater or baseboard heater with its own thermostat should be sufficient, one with a schedule timer would be ideal. <S> Just like a central HVAC system it'll keep the room warm when you are likely to use it and not run the heater at night or beyond a certain temperature. <A> If your electric service is not overloaded, some form of permanently installed electric heat is nearly always the cheapest to install (without the "unattended space heater" issues), and the most expensive to run. <S> If you wanted to redo the tiles (or it has none <S> and you'd like to add them) <S> an underfloor radiant grid would be nice, if you can ignore what it does to your electric bill. <S> Otherwise plain old electric baseboard or a wall or ceiling radiant panel would work. <S> If cost to operate is an object, you might want to see if you can add to the duct feeding the laundry area and put a vent in the bathroom - or even relocate the laundry vent to the bathroom (if the heat will then flow back out of the bathroom in to the laundry area.) <S> Ideally you'd want to consult with a heating professional to make sure that duct sizes and overall load on the furnace are OK, rather than just ripping into it and adding a duct. <S> If you have gas heat, this will be anywhere from 1/2 - 1/4 the price of electric heat (depending on gas and electric rates.) <S> Next spring you should consider digging down outside that corner as far as you can manage, and installing XPS foam insulation sheets as far down as you can dig. <S> Aboveground treatment will vary depending what your termite issues are - here we have little in the way of those, so it's OK to foam right up to the sill and stucco over it for appearances sake <S> aboveground - in more termite prone areas <S> I think you have to forgo the insulation between the ground and sill or it <S> makes a place for termites to hide. <A> Long ago and far away, I lived in a newly constructed high rise apartment. <S> The bathroom had a timer-controlled overhead heat lamp. <S> Just enough time to dry after a shower, warmth aplenty. <S> What passes for energy efficient and heat, I don't know. <S> But such a configuration was great, you're not in the room that long and the room is small.
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For a "creative" method you could make use of a hot water recirculation pump and run the return piping all around the walls or under the floor (thicker than an electric mat, though) or through a fan-coil unit to basically put the heating load onto your hot water heater, rather than the furnace - and you'd have hot water without the wait to boot.
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How do I hang a shelf without drilling holes? I'm currently living in a house in which we have clear instructions not to drill through the walls for danger of asbestos. I purchased a small projector and would like to mount a shelf to the wall, but I know that I cannot drill through. The projector weighs about 1lbs, and the shelf could be just a piece of wood or plastic stuck to the wall. Does anyone have any suggestions about making this shelf and how to stick it to the wall without drilling through? <Q> A " C " (or perhaps " [ " is better) <S> shaped shelf could sit under and behind the couch, keeping it no more than an inch or two (even less if it was metal plate for the section behind the top edge of the couch) off the wall, and holding the projector above the couch without needing any attachment into the walls. <S> Not exactly what I'm thinking of (not having much luck thinking of the right search terms to find what I am thinking of), but the general idea - legs that can slip under the couch, standards, a shelf. <A> How about instead of mounting it to the wall, use a couple vertical tension rods from floor to ceiling and connect shelves to those? <S> See this IKEA hack: http://lifehacker.com/5890036/mount-your-hdtv-on-a-set-of-floor+to+ceiling-poles-keep-your-wall-hole+free <S> Oh, actually I see Johnny answered with a similar post. <S> But while the link he gave works, the links at the site he gave (which detail the parts used) don't seem to be working for me. <S> Anyway, a quick look at IKEA's web site should give you some parts to use. <S> Like these: Stolmen post: <S> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20179940/ Stolmen shelf: <S> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70179947/ <S> Stolmen end fixture: <S> http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50179934/ <S> If it's just a small component like you mentioned, you might even make do with just one tension pole. <S> No need for a shelf! <S> To mount your device to the pole, you can do a number of things. <S> First, you can buy one of those "O" rings and mount a small, lightweight shelf to it - maybe a thin piece of backer board or plastic from a clipboard or something. <S> You just have to drill a hole into the shelf and attach it with a screw, two washers, and a nut. <S> And then put your device on top of that. <S> But that may not be a perfect solution if the "O" ring can't handle the force or the shelf sags at a downward angle over time. <S> Instead, you might want to just make your own custom plastic frame to hold your device. <S> It's super easy. <S> Just buy some some Insta Morph and shape it into whatever you want. <S> Insta Morph melts at 150 degrees F, and then you can shape it for a few minutes until it solidifies. <S> It takes about an hour for it to become completely solid, and when it's like that, it's indistinguishable from any other hard plastic you've seen. <S> Just have to watch the heat from the device, make sure it doesn't re-melt the plastic (it can be melted again and reused any number of times by the way)... <S> http://www.amazon.com/InstaMorph-Moldable-Plastic-12-oz/dp/B003QKLJKQ <S> Oh and by the way, the idea of using vertical tension rods to make shelving is genius. <S> It's easy to put together and take down. <S> It's very customizable, allowing any shelf width and depth you want. <S> It can be added onto later on if you want. <S> And in my opinion, it looks very nice, clean and modern. <S> You may not need the shelving for your purposes, but it doesn't hurt to have extra shelving! <A> You can use the stands that will rest on ground and support your shelves. <S> Or use some chain or rope and screw some hook on your shelves to hang it using or rope. <A> I have actually done this a lot over the years at my place, as I had a family member that used to work for Velcro, full disclosure. <S> This will only work for a shelf <S> if you have some gussets underneath , if its just a free standing shelf it will fail immediately or eventually anyway. <S> I have also used double sided tape , which is extremely strong, but removed the paint from the wall once I had to remove what I had hanging. <S> I did use this for a coat hanger in the back of a door, and there I had no issues. <S> Link at Amazon
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Either Velcro, or 3M, even other brands have these strips you can use to hang pictures , shelves, coat hangers (as I have) that are great, and best of all, they are removable without messing up the paint.
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Is it okay to flush water heater onto the drip pan with drain hole? Our water heater is on the second floor and we need to have it flushed. It has a drip pan with a hole that has a tube attached to it. Common sense tells me that I can flush the water heater directly onto the drip pan since it has a pipe attached to it where the water will drain, but I haven't seen anywhere on line that this is okay to do. I've read only that it is there just in case there's a leak. Can I drain our water heater onto the pan or should I attach a hose to the it to drain? <Q> The drip pan's drain tube may not be large enough to handle the flow if you drain the entire water heater through it, leading to an overflow of the drip pan. <S> I would be safe and use a hose to connect the outlet to the drain. <A> I'd suggest you use a watering can or pitcher to test where the drain tube goes before you crack the hot water heater drain. <S> Pour a half-gallon to a couple of gallons down the tube and see if it shows up somewhere below. <S> It probably should be more or less directly below in the basement, but it's always a good thing to check that it works before asking it to do too much. <S> If the wall or ceiling on the floor below suddenly starts weeping water, at least it will be a small amount, and you'll know you should get this fixed before you have a leak, and not use it now. <S> My recollection is that this sort of thing is not likely to go into the sanitary sewer - dumping on the basement floor, or possibly into a sump, is more likely. <S> You may want to move things in the basement before dumping 50 gallons down there, if that's true. <S> It should be less than 12" from the basement floor. <A> The drain on the safety pan is for leaking heaters only, not for draining. <S> Shut off the heater via the breaker or shutoff. <S> Use a heat resistant hose (make sure hose <S> washer is in good condition) and place the other end in the bathtub or equivalent. <S> Then, slowly open the drain. <S> That will hasten the draining. <S> Be careful: water may scald you and cause injury. <S> Also, shut off power to the heater before draining. <S> It is best to let the water in the heater cool off first. <A> I have tried flushing our water heater with the drip pan and it overflow. <S> Good thing that we are located in the basement. <S> But that still sucks :( <S> Better use a hose for the draining. <A> I say go for it: as a bonus you get to test the operation of the drip pan (where exactly does it go? <S> Is it indeed large enough to handle a flood event?). <S> Just start slow, have towels handy, and be ready to shut it off... quick. <S> Don't forget the water is... um...hot.
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When you're confident the hose is sealed tight, there are no leaks, and half the heater has drained, then and only then slowly open the safety drain on the side.
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Combi boiler doesn't realise it's already lit I have an Ariston Eurocombi (A23).The problem is it doesn't realise the flame is lit. When I start it up and cause demand (run hot tap or turn on heating) it fires up the flame correctly, however, you can hear the igniter still clicking away. After about 7 seconds of this (flame working correctly, but igniter clicking) the boiler then shuts itself down and lights up the "Ignition failure" light. I can press the reset button but the same thing just happens again. I don't think the problem is related to over-heating because if I leave it alone for a few hours, then try running hot water again, the problem is still there. However, If I turn it off, and off at the wall, then wait for at least an hour or so, I can get it to work again for about 1/2 an hour. I assume the problem is either with whatever detects the flame is lit, or the board that responds to that sensor. Any suggestions for how to diagnose (or better still, fix) the problem? Thanks,Matt <Q> I believe it is fairly normal for the igniter to continue to fire for several seconds after ignition, I guess this is because it takes a while for the flame sensor to heat up - and probably also for performance/safety reasons. <S> Boilers have a flame-sensor, it sounds like your has failed. <S> You can buy replacements. <S> I think this is a job most people leave to a boiler service technician, you need special tools (e.g. multimeter with microamp range) to check those sensors. <S> Gas appliance repair is safety critical, probably best left to those with training and experience. <S> 19 = " <S> detection electrode"20 = ignition electrodes. <S> See manual A07 = flame detector. <S> A09 = flame detection circuit. <S> A10 = flame indicator LED - I'd check this is "on" after 5 seconds of successful ignition. <S> The manual contains a troubleshooting flowchart and a parts list that includes the flame sensor. <A> I have had the same issue with my boiler as many people have with the Ariston Microgenus. <S> In fact Ariston have modified the PCB (circuit board) and changed some components to resolve the issue. <S> If you have an older model like me and don't want to spend the 160 pounds for a new PCB. <S> I worked out the easy fix which I've made a video for and posted to youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-L3PzGQAa4 <A> Short answer: The flame sensor has become coated in carbon and is not sensing that the burners have fired. <S> You will not see the build up as it is an invisible coating. <S> The flame sensor will need to be cleaned. <S> It is not recommended to use sand paperer grit cloth to clean them as this will create grooves in the sensor, and will cause it to carbon up much quicker. <S> You should use either ultra fine 000 or finer steel wool, or paper. <S> Technicians will commonly use money when regular white paper, or steel wool is not available. <S> All repairs and service done to any gas fired appliance should be done by a licensed technician <A> I tried cleaning the detection electrode as suggested by @mnc123 <S> but no effect. <S> Ended up just getting british gas round. <S> Problem was solved by replacing the motherboard (the one on the right). <S> Thanks all.
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Don't rule out other causes, boilers shut themselves down for lots of reasons, maybe the flue is iced up or the water pump isn't operating.
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How do I eliminate the cold drafts coming from my air conditioning vents during winter? I have a forced hot water (baseboard) heating system in my home and added central air conditioning about 10 years ago. The cooling system's air handler is in my attic, and duct work was added for the 1st and second floors for cooling. There are 3 returns on the 2nd floor, and about 10 supply vents throughout both floors. My question/issue is that two of the returns and 3 of the supplies have pretty bad (cold) drafts throughout the winter. I measure the temperature at around 50 degrees F on them. All the others are at/near room temperature. I'm considering blocking them for the winter months by purchasing covers, or likely a DIY project like http://www.instructables.com/id/Winter-HVAC-Hack . My main question is that should there be any drafts at all. Are the drafts a sign of duct leaks that should be found and repaired by the HVAC company? <Q> I had the same problem with cold drafts coming thru the ac vents that are not used for heating in the winter (I too have baseboard hot water heating and only use the ac and ducting in the summer). <S> I have 3 returns and a lot of supply vents and covering each one individually would be time consuming and not practical. <S> Instead I pulled out the filter from my air handler (which like yours is also in the attic) and covered it with plastic sheeting. <S> This blocked the air circulation between the returns and supply vents and eliminated the drafts. <S> I have not heard of others using this method but it worked very well in my situation. <A> There will be some air flow through the ducts because they are not a "sealed container" they are designed to move the air in your home. <S> As for the DIY project if your covers are metal I would suggest using a magnetic tape or adhesive sheets to attach them. <S> Or they make covers : For the ceiling <S> registers you will want to make sure the magnets are strong enough to hold material tightly. <A> Go buy a new filter. <S> They are shrink wrapped in plastic. <S> Pop it in, come cooling season you have fresh filter waiting for you. <A> A few months ago when we bought our home, I immediately noticed the cold air flowing in through the ceiling AC vents and particularly where the "20" by "20" filter is located in the ceiling. <S> (It's a bummer to change because it is located in the ceiling at the top of the stairs... <S> one false move <S> and I'm going to be in a dozen casts!) <S> Anyway, I did exactly what was suggested in reply #3 above and what a huge difference it made! <S> For my other small ceiling AC vents that also leaked badly, I closed the vents with the little "handle" as best I could <S> and yes, cold air still leaked through, though somewhat reduced. <S> The vents are not magnetic so commercial "magnetic" products were not an option. <S> So, I took large zip seal FREEZER bags (thicker plastic than non-freezer bags), sliced them on all 3 seams and got 2 small "cheepo vent covers" from each bag. <S> I had to trim them a bit for a good fit on the vents. <S> I put clear packing tape on one edge of the sliced bag, taped it to the metal part of the vent (avoiding the ceiling paint) and then taped the other 3 sides of the bag) to the remaining 3 sides of the vent, being careful to fully surround the bag and vent with tape, leaving no gaps. <S> WOW. <S> What a difference! <S> Not a fun project to be sure, but cheap, effective and they can be easily removed and reused each year by just replacing the tape.
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The air in your duct work is cold because it is running through the attic which is not heated.
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How do I fish a wire into an existing electrical box? I have a 2-gang switch box that houses two light switches. I'm replacing one of the switches with a Honeywell Programmable Light Switch PLS751, which requires both an ungrounded (hot) and a grounded (neutral) conductor. To add this switch, I'm thinking I should route new 14/3 or 12/3 wiring to the box. I could alternatively route a single extra wire to the box also to act as the grounded (neutral). My question is: how the heck do I get either of these wires into the existing box? I've replaced a 1-gang box with a 2-gang before and routed new wire to that, but I'm clearly going to need some trickery to get a new run into an existing box without ripping it out first and fishing for it myself. <Q> At some point of agony, it's easier to repair drywall than to try and fish everything without opening any new holes. <A> You should run a new 14/3 cable. <S> Do not run a single wire. <S> If the distance is close enough you might get away with only removing one box, but most likely you will need to remove both boxes and replace them when you are finished. <A> Tie small magnet (small enough to fit through the boxes holes) to piece of string. <S> Tie other end of string to end of wire securely. <S> Move around till magnet catches. <S> Pull magnet and string back through box hole. <S> Keep pulling string till wire comes through hole. <S> Enjoy wire in existing box :) <A> My understanding from wiring GFCI outlets is that line was power in and load was power out (to the device being controlled). <S> If that is correct, this switch can be wired in in place of the switch. <S> Does this PLS751 require a third wire?
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Send string and wire down wall near box. There may be a few situations where you can actually get the job done without opening walls, but there are a lot where that is the only option (depends on where the wires run and the construction of the walls.) You'll never be able to fish box to box with the boxes in the wall. Insert metal rod or fishtap or something that the magnet will stick to up through hole.
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Starting row of laminate flooring Just wondering how to start the 1st row of laminate flooring.I have a door to deal with right off the bat. Wondering which is the better option (see diagram). This diagram is not to scale. The wall is 20 feet long with a standard door opening. <Q> Option B is a fine way to start, if possible check 2 things. <S> If possible shift your row if you can to get a potential butt joint out of the doorway. <S> It is always best to eliminate joints in the doorways since it is always a high traffic area. <S> The elimination of the added piece in option 1 is the reason I did go for option 1. <S> Secondly, adjust how much you cut out of the start row to minimize the problem of having a really narrow strip to finish on the other side. <S> A 1" strip can be glued onto the neighboring lap if need be, a 1/2" strip will be delicate but can handled with glue too. <S> Just make sure you will finish well. <S> you do need to leave a 1/2" room at all solid objects in the room to allow the floor to float within the room, it will move, it will expand and contract with seasonal, and changes in room humidity/conditioning. <A> In general, all tile and plank layout should be done to maximize the size of the pieces along both the starting wall and the finish wall. <S> (Even with 3/4 of a full plank, you may still want to divide the difference for a more symmetrical appearance). <S> Assuming fairly square walls, you figure out the size of the edge strips as follows: <S> Compute how many full units fit across the room. <S> Compute the extra width beyond the full units. <S> Divide by 2. <S> This is the width of your starting row and finishing row. <S> (Your full rowswill be one less than the maximum total you first computed.) <S> Examples: <S> Room is 10'2" feet wide and <S> tiles/planks are 1 foot wide <S> : 1. <S> Maximum full units is 10 2. <S> Extra width is 2" 3. <S> Extra plus one unit is 1'2" (14") 4. <S> Half of that is 7". <S> (Starting and ending rows are 7" each, 9 full units in between) and <S> Room is 10'10" wide and tiles <S> /planks are 1 foot wide <S> : 1. <S> Maximum full units is 10 2. <S> Extra width is 10" 3. <S> Extra plus one unit is 1'10" (22") 4. <S> Half of that is 11". <S> (Starting and ending rows are 11" each, 9 full units in between.) <S> In general, flooring will be finished with a molding over a gap left around the perimeter (usually 1/4" to 3/8" depending on the flooring material). <S> The door transition needs to be adjusted to reflect the door saddle or other capping mechanism. <S> A gap is needed at that transition as well as the wall edges. <A> I would start up in the top-right corner of the diagram, that way you have to cannibalize say two tiles, to make up for the little bit of space you need to cover between the edge of the first column of tiles and the door jam, as opposed to cutting off say two inches off of every single piece of flooring in the entire first column. <S> Alternately I guess you could also start in another corner of the room, preferably with a strait wall that has no doors! <S> When I redid the flooring in my bathroom, I was lucky enough to have a slight gap between the trim and the plywood under, so I was actually able to slide the flooring a little bit closer to the actual wall, and minimize cutting!
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in general, unless you have at least 3/4 of a unit at the end wall, you wan to cut both the starting and ending rows to have a more balanced appearance. This gap is needed to accommodate shifting of the flooring materials due to seasonal shrinking and swelling. You could use either A or B if the door transition cover will give at least a 1/2" cover of the edge. Add that to the width of a full unit.
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How can I install a vanity over this unfortunate plumbing? I have recently removed a vanity from my bathroom and am facing an unfortunate plumbing footprint when trying to put a new vanity in place. The cold water line runs right against a built in cabinet which I would like to keep in place and the drain for the sink is also the drain for the bathtub in the upstairs bathroom. So the drain pipe actually comes out of the wall and then into the floor. My question is will I be able to remove enough material from a new vanity to fit it in this space or will I compromise the structural integrity of the vanity I am trying to install. The previous vanity that I removed was custom built to fit in the space, ie extra pieces of wood were attached to an old piece of furniture and a piece of marble was cut for the counter top. Believe me it sounds nicer than it looked. Here is an image of what I am dealing with. <Q> Cut that pipe out in 2 places. <S> One place is above the bottom shelf of the new cabinet and mid way between the 2 fittings on the upper pipe that goes at a 45 degree angle. <S> Recouple it back together when the cabinet is installed. <S> The supply lines need to be relocated too, but you may be able to move them around to get past their issues. <S> The cutting of the vent pipe is still taking a small chance it will be difficult to get the pipe back together. <S> As it is you will need to shorten the pipe you cut out at least by a 1/2" to make room for the stop built in as part of the coupler. <S> You will also need to account for how much out of square the cut has too. <S> If the upper portion of the pipe has a little upward give to it, it will be a lot easier to rejoin. <S> If not you will need to be really assertive on getting it back together again. <A> I would probably just cut out section of subfloor around this mess, and the section of drywall, and then re-route everything (under the subfloor) so the pipes come out of the wall. <S> It's not that difficult, and it's probably less work than modifying cabinets and doing the creative plumbing necessary to get this to work. <S> Of course, this might also mean replacing the flooring (if you intended on keeping that), unless the new vanity can completely hide the patch. <S> This would also give you the option of using a pedestal sink, which might be appropriate because of the tight space between the wall and door. <S> Personally I prefer the "euro style" vanities in this situation, but just throwing it out there anyway. <A> Cutting three small holes out of the bottom of the vanity is in no way going to affect the integrity of the vanity nor is it bad practice. <S> I come across bottom plumbing from time to time. <S> The chances are there was a reason that they couldn't put the pipes in the wall - most of the time <S> it is the wall sitting on a joist. <S> Cut your pvc out so that you have about 10 inches sticking out of floor. <S> Cut pvc <S> so there is a couple inches stick out of wall. <S> Drill small hole for copper line. <S> For the one of the right make sure that you do not drill vanity base. <S> Drill out back hole for pvc. <S> If soddered on then just cut them off below. <S> Need one person holding vanity and the other guiding the pipes in. <S> Finish underneath plumbing. <S> Have never had an inspector say a word about plumbing straight to an unfinished area - basement. <S> It isn't normal but its certainly not helping your plumbing situation by moving everything. <S> It is just money and time spent for possibly more issues.
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Take off valves off copper lines so that you do not have to make huge holes for them.
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Bubbles in toilet, gurgling sound coming from kitchen sink So, all of a sudden, I have big bubbles coming out from my toilet bowl when the washing machine is pushing water out. Thinking it might be a clogged toilet bowl, I took the plunger to the bowl. I flushed, and the kitchen sink started making gurgling sound. What's going on? <Q> I know a house that has this all the time because there is no vent stack. <S> Any excess gas in the drain lines bubbles through the sinks. <A> It can also be a blocked sewer line. <S> I had bubbling toilets and drains and it was fixed by the sewer line being cleared out. <A> Thank you all for answering. <S> I think the problem may have been fixed. <S> At least, that's what I'm hoping and praying for. <S> My dad came to my house and heard the noise, went through all the bathrooms. <S> One of the bathrooms on the north side of the house is never used because it's always very cold that part of the house. <S> The toilet bowl was all dried up, so he flushed the toilet <S> and there's now some water in the bowl. <S> He also turned on the bath tub and sink faucets and let it run for a couple of minutes. <S> I haven't heard the noise from anywhere since then - granted I haven't done any laundry yet. <S> But at least, the noises coming from the kitchen is gone.
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It's possible the snow has effectively blocked the vent pipe on the roof, causing this bubbling.
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What are the possible ways to prevent heating pipes in an entryway from freezing? I live in Maine, and it can get cold in the winter. My house has baseboard hot water heating and three heating zones (basement, first floor, and second floor). We have a mudroom/entry room that I believe was added to the house after it was originally built - it has many windows and cools easily. It also has a long heating register, which is on the first floor zone. The thermostat for the first floor zone is well-located in a central spot. Typically, all works well. When most of the first floor is kept at a comfy 68 or so, the mudroom is probably in the mid or upper 40s. A problem has arisen, however, with the installation of a wood stove on our first floor. The stove works well and can heat the whole house. However, when it is operating, it raises the inside temp enough so that the baseboard heat doesn't come on. The problem is that if it is sufficiently cold outside, the temperature out in the mudroom can drop into the low 30s (or potentially lower if I don't keep a careful eye on it). I obviously don't want this to happen because i don't want the pipes that supply the register in the mudroom to freeze. What suggestions do you have that might address this problem? Some ideas I've had are: Remove the baseboard heat from the mudroom (possible, though I'd like a little heat out there) Put the mudroom on its own zone (a bit of a costly undertaking, but perhaps the best solution) Put a thermostat out in the mudroom set to, say, 35 - it would be connected to the same first-floor zone as the indoor thermostat. The whole zone would kick on when either thermostat tripped. Would add more heat than wanted inside...but might be workable? Install some sort of shut-off valve on the pipes that go out to the mudroom so that I can manually drain those pipes and shut off water in them when I am running the stove. (I suspect this is a bad idea) Install some sort of standalone heater. (I am reluctant to do this - there isn't a great spot for one, and it seems like a less elegant solution in that it adds an additional complication rather than fixing the existing problem) <Q> Some different ideas: Remove the baseboard water heater and replace with electric, thereby creating it's own zone. <S> Add insulation to the mudroom <S> Keep mudroom door open when using wood heater <A> You might want to consider trace heating , using heating cable . <S> There are lots of different brands available with built-in and add-on thermostats, plug attached or hardwired. <S> Simply install the cable following the manufacturers instructions, set the thermostat, and stop worrying about frozen pipes. <S> Most cables are designed to work with both metal and plastic pipes, so it's a fairly versatile solution. <A> You can replace the water in the system with antifreeze. <S> A special product is made for this. <S> http://www.ehow.com/how_5050275_add-antifreeze-heating-system.html Install a thermostat that only turns on the circulator. <S> Simplest way would be add 2nd circulator controlled by 120v thermostat (electric baseboard thermostat). <S> There is probably a way to do it using existing circulator too. <S> This way you are not wasting money heating a house that is already hot from wood stove. <S> You can get an electric heater that mounts on the wall and is less that 1" thick. <A> I would add a thermostat set for 35-38 degrees for the zone. <S> It's not likely to run very often, but would be the surest way to head off frozen pipes. <S> Keep in mind that the baseboard, being on the outside wall, and probably below windows, will be in the coolest spot in the room when you choose your thermostat setpoint. <S> If you have all the heat your need from the woodstove, you might also consider whether you can use a small fan to move some heat into the mudroom. <A> There is a product made specifically for this problem. <S> It is called ThermGuard and is a tiny microcomputer that attaches to your thermostat. <S> It is programmable to run the heat zone for a specific number of minutes with a programmable delay. <S> For instance, you can program it to run for 3 minutes every two hours. <S> This will circulate enough water to keep the pipes from freezing. <S> Anti-freeze can be dangerous to your domestic water supply as it is connected to the boiler system to keep the water at pressure. <S> If the anti-backflow device fails you will have poison in the drinking water. <S> Anti-freeze also corrodes the components in the boiler system. <S> The ThermGuard device has non-volatile memory <S> so it keeps your settings even when switched off. <S> When the weather is not threatening, you just turn the unit off. <S> Turning it back on restores all your programmed settings. <S> I have 3 in my house because I use a wood stove to heat in Montana. <S> I have had my pipes burst twice...once <S> when I wasn't home and it flooded the basement. <A> When it is very cold and you are heating with your wood stove, turn on the water circulation pump from your main furnace. <S> This will ensure water is always circulating even though the main furnace is not running. <S> You may need a bypass switch to the current aquastat for this to work. <S> Good luck <A> I turn the switch on when the weather drops below 32 degs to ensure the leg that runs in a crawlspace does not freeze. <S> This is a one zone system. <S> I could attaching a thermostat and eliminate the need to manually turn on the switch, but this has worked well for a few years and it is the equivalent electricity of an 80 watt light bulb. <S> I have mixed CI radiators and baseboards and when the pump is on 100%, the system heat balance is also improved.
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I wired a switch in parallel that allows me to run the ciculator independent of the thermostat. Splice your pipes and add the mudroom baseboard to one of the other circuits that will be running even when wood stove is on (basement, likely). If the only pipes in this room were for the radiator, you wouldn't even need to set the heat, as there are no more pipes to worry about.
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Newly installed ceiling fan, lights turn on and off on it's own - dimmer switch, breaker or light bulbs causing issue? Help, I have a newly installed ceiling fan that is controlled by a remote control and the wall has a dimmer switch. (We had a smaller ceiling fan in place and replaced it with a larger fan to fit the room better). The 3 light portion of the fan works with 2-60 watt bulbs for 5 minutes. Then light starts to turn on and off again. When we had 3-60 light bulbs in, the light didn't work. The limited wattage on the fan is combined 190. 3-60 watts shouldn't be over that. Can anyone suggest why we are having this problem. I didn't install it, I paid a guy to do it. Is it because all 3 of our bedrooms are on one breaker and now with the bigger ceiling fan we have exceeded some sort of power limit on the breaker? Is it because of the dimmer switch? Should I try 3-40 watt bulbs instead? Help, would be appreciated. <Q> If the breaker isn't tripping (all your bedrooms are not losing power, just the light on the fan), it's not the breaker being overloaded. <S> How is this wired? <S> Is the "dimmer switch" controlling just the lights on the fan, or is it the older fan's speed control? <S> Or perhaps if I ask "How do {or did, with the old fan} you turn on the lights alone, fan alone, or both? <S> " - is there a wall switch or speed control for the fan, and a separate wall switch for the lights, or does one wall switch (dimmer?) <S> turn on the fan/light and then you select if the lights are on by a pull-switch on the fan? <S> You have a remote control now - that would probably affect the way things should be wired. <S> Why do I ask all this? <S> The only way I can imagine that you're causing something to overload with 120 watts of light bulb is is if you've got the fan motor attached to the dimmer, which is almost certainly not right... <S> either the "dimmer" is a fan speed control, probably sized for the previous fan motor (did it have lights?) <S> or it's only supposed to be attached to the lights, if it is a dimmer. <S> A dimmer won't work right as a fan speed control, and a fan speed control won't work right as a dimmer, and if both the motor and lights are attached to either one, it would not work. <A> It sounds a lot like your ceiling fan has a thermal protection switch built into it, and the lights are heating up the unit until it reaches the maximum whereby the switch causes it to cut off the power. <S> Recessed lighting usually has a thermal protection switch, but I didn't think ceiling fans would have something like that. <S> I do think many ceiling fans have a thermal protection switch for the motor, though. <S> So is it possible that your lights are overheating the thermal protection switch inside of the motor assembly? <S> Hmmm. <S> So one very easy thing you can do is to just swap out your incandescent bulbs for low wattage compact fluorescent bulbs if you can. <S> See if it still goes out. <S> You should realize, though, that CFL bulbs are not generally dimmable, so you should probably set your dimmer switch to maximum lighting when you do this experiment. <S> Either that or go with dimmable LED bulbs instead. <S> It doesn't exactly explain why 3 x 60 watt bulbs don't work at all, though. <S> That's a little weird. <S> Maybe the fan's internal 190 watt limit is kicking in, because although the bulbs themselves may be at 60 watts, the internal circuitry might require extra wattage even while doing nothing. <S> So my guess right now is that it's overheating with 2 bulbs in it, whereas with 3 bulbs it's simply over wattage and won't turn on. <S> Try the experiment with lower wattage bulbs and report back. <A> You mention a remote and a dimmer switch. <S> Motors and remote controls don't work well with dimmer switches, especially dimmers intended to be used with incandescent lighting. <S> A simple way to rule this out would be to 1) turn off the breaker, 2) disconnect the wires from the back of the dimmer, 3) connect those two wires together with a wire nut, and 4) turn the breaker back on. <S> If this solves your problem you can leave the now dead dimmer in place. <S> You could also replace the dimmer switch with a standard switch, or a special momentary normally closed switch. <S> This type of switch will briefly turn off the power when you press it. <S> This makes the light convenient to use from a wall switch without needing the remote. <S> And since it's normally closed, you don't have the problem of a normal switch being accidentally turned off, rendering the remote inoperable, too.
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Most fans that have a remote respond to a momentary interruption in power as a toggle command for the light.
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How will a granite countertop on a floating island affect the laminate floor it sits on? We are looking at upgrading our countertops to granite. We have a floating laminate floor under a movable island that we don't wish to anchor. The island would have a 40"x50" top surface. How does the weight of the granite affect the floor? <Q> A granite slab of the size you describe and 1 1/4 inches thick would weigh about 300 pounds. <S> A 3/4 inch slab, about 200 pounds. <S> This is on top of an island that may weigh 100 to 300 pounds, depending on how it is constructed. <S> if you add some contents, the total weight with the thicker granite will probably be between 500 and 700 pounds. <S> If people lean on it, this could add another 50 to 100 pounds of pressure. <S> The maximum weight of the island, top contents and dynamic pressure is probably about 800 pounds. <S> This is divided over four (or more) support points. <S> Each support is carrying about 200 pounds of weight. <S> This is comparable to a good sized person standing on something the size of the area of the support point. <S> If this were a tiny, sharp metal leg, it might well damage the surface of the floor. <S> If it were a wide 3x6 inch board, the risk would be very small. <S> Tiny metal glides might do damage. <S> Broad teflon slides, probably not. <S> If you need to use wheels, large diameter rubber ones would probably be fine. <S> Using the thinner granite (if it is well supported and doesn't have a significant overhang) might be better. <A> While granite that size can be heavy, it will be distributed on 4 legs equally. <A> The expansion of laminate is pretty small especially in a conditioned space. <S> Also the forces of the flooring when expanding far outweigh the forces of any island that you will make. <S> You would probably be looking at a few thousand pounds before it even comes close to cause buckling. <S> I will say though that you should think about the quality of the laminate when deciding on the legs. <S> A high quality with a good locking system will not be affected by a weighty island at all. <S> But if you have some cheap stuff or it has a bad locking mechanism I would be afraid to "move" the island if it had small leg bottoms. <S> I could definitely see it scratching or moving the laminate in some cases. <S> Lots of ways around this issue though and probably better to plan before heavy granite is on it. <S> that is a different question though - but with the granite top weighing it down <S> I would personally put it on industrial quality rollers.
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It depends on what the island stands on, but if they are fairly large casters or support bases, you should be fine.
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Should a gas water heater be shut down if the water main has to be turned off? I have a brand new AO Smith 50gal gas water heater. Today there was a burst pipe from the cold spell we're having currently, so I had to turn off the water main to the house until the plumbers get here tomorrow. With that, nobody had used any hot water all day so it should be full, but do I need to turn the water heater off until the water can be turned back on tomorrow to avoid any damage etc? <Q> Water heaters have a dip tube on the cold water side that puts the cold water into the bottom of the tank. <S> If water pressure is lost on the cold water side, the tank can siphon down through the cold water inlet till it reaches the bottom of the dip tube. <S> Then since there's no water in the tank to absorb heat, the dip tube can melt and the tank can be damaged. <S> It would be best to at least set the heater so it is on pilot only. <S> Note: <S> Manufacturer AO Smith states in their manuals that their gas water heaters must not be operated without being certain it's filled or with the cold water inlet shutoff valve closed. <A> The reasoning was simple: When the water heater came on to heat up its reservoir, it would cause the water to expand, and therefore pressurize, to the point where the tank or a pipe would rupture. <S> As long as the inlet valve were open to the distribution system, heating water would expand slightly into the city system and not build up pressure. <S> That is still good advice because many overpressure/overtemperature valves discharge into an inconvenient area—which could cause water damage, cause electrical concerns, etc. <S> If quick freezing conditions are present at the discharge, the valve's function might be impaired, resulting in 1960s over pressurization concerns. <S> Better to be safe than sorry. <S> These cost very little, and may save some hassle: <S> shut off the water inlet at the tank to prevent siphoning shut off electricity and gas to the heater to prevent undesired discharge, and possible over pressurization <S> leave as much hot water in the tank as possible to forestall freezing concerns if your heating system becomes inoperable. <A> This answer is my opinion as a technician to the simple question: If my water heater is left on, and the water is shut off, will this damage the gas fired water heater if the hot water will not be used very much, or not at all? <S> You can also shut off the cold feed valve to ensure water isnt siphoned out of the tank if cold water is used with the tank off. <S> This would also not allow much hot water to be used out of the tank as you have now air locked the system. <S> The water heater will still turn on and off to maintain the water temperature inside of the tank. <S> Think about if you have ever gone away for a prolonged period of time. <S> Normally there will be no water use for days or weeks and this causes no problems to the tank. <S> Even if water is used from the tank most (if not all) water heaters have low water cutoffs built into the unitroll (or aquastat). <S> Now The tank has a dip tube for inlet. <S> This dip tube normally stops 4 to 8 inches above the unitroll (which regulates temperature of the water). <S> This ensures that for whatever reason, if the cold supply looses pressure, the water inst siphoned out of the tank completly. <S> This avoids the tank being "tricked" to continuously run to try to maintain temperature if all of the hot water is used up. <S> This also avoids the possibility of a melting dip tube or catastrophic failure of the tank. <S> Realistically there is no danger to having the tank on with the water off. <S> Especially since the tank works off water pressure to supply hot water. <S> The tank pressure will be equal to your water pressure. <S> If there is no inlet water pressure, there will be no outlet water pressure. <S> If shutting off your water and leaving your water heater on could cause damage or catastrophic failure, then water heater manufacturers would be up to there necks in law suits. <S> Even if it did cause issues, all the parts, and even the labor should be covered by the manufacturer. <A> When I go on vacation in the winter <S> I always turn of the main water valve. <S> I also turn off the water valve into the water heater, and drain the pipes in the house at the lowest faucet. <S> I have done this for 25 years in three different houses, two with gas heaters and on an oil zone. <S> I have had absolutely no problem with any of those heaters. <S> Here a tip for maintaining a healthy water heater: drain a bucket of water from its bottom valve every six months. <S> The last hot water heater I had, AO Smith 75 gallon, was put in when I built my previous house in 1996, and is still working fine for the people who bought the house in 2011; that's 17 years so far. <S> The tank in my current house is on an oil furnace zone, and does not have a lower drain faucet. <S> That is because it is completely insulated, as it has not direct burner. <A> My understanding is that if you go away on vacation, turn off main water and turn off inlet water to the heater. <S> Lower the temperature on the water heater to save energy. <S> Don't bother turning off the water heater.
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Before the use of pressure relief valves, homeowners were always urged to shut off the gas or electricity to a water heater which has the water cut off. Considering you wont be using the water, and it will only be off for a short time there is no risk at all.
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Are T-8 lights and T-12 lights safely interchangeable? I have a fixture that came with T-12 lights. Is it safe to use T-8 bulbs instead? <Q> You are meant to replace the ballast on old T12s , reusing the old G13 base and enclosure. <S> There are numerous retrofit and upgrade kits available. <S> The official word for the USA is: <S> Based on [Department of Energy] analysis... <S> most T12 lamps are too inefficient to meet the [current] standards and can no longer be manufactured for distribution in commerce after July 14, 2012. <S> In addition, if a consumer replaces an existing T12 system with a more-efficient T8 or T5 diameter system, he or she may need to purchase a new ballast or fixture. <S> Even with this additional cost, however, DOE has determined that increasing the energy conservation standards will save consumers money overall. <S> http://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildings/appliance_standards/residential/pdfs/general_service_fluorescent_factsheet.pdf <S> Mixing the two bulbs types is chancy: it might work out great for you, but probably not. <S> Many of the old ballasts are pretty bad anyway: the new ones in this case really are better. <S> Old ballasts are likely magnetic and might hum. <S> They may have PCB chemicals, and they have a reputation for getting hot and even igniting. <S> Note: <S> retrofit kits make sense in commercial applications. <S> For your one fixture, it may be cheaper to buy an entirely new one. <S> 2017 <S> Update : The cool kids are all using LED instead. <S> As before the hookup options are still bewildering (single ended, far side terminated, ballast bypass, ballast compatible). <S> As before, the same G13 base and fixture can be preserved. <A> As far as safety is concerned, you can exchange them. <S> If you place T12 tubes in a fixture with a T8 ballast, you will wear out the ballast and have to replace it. <S> If you place T8 tubes in a fixture with a T12 ballast, then the tubes will have a shorter life due to a higher current through the tube. <A> Personal experience, with T8 tubes in a T12 fixture with old ballasts, supports what Nathan L posted. <S> T8 tubes rated to last 36,000 hours may last less than 2,000 hours. <A> Apparently, at least one ballast model is rated for F32T8, F40T12 lamps, the Keystone KTEB-240-1-TP /B. <S> Also, the Fulham Pony NPY-120-240-T8 is or was made to operate either T8 or T12 lamps. <S> If your T* ballast is designed so as to keep lamp current close to 265 mA, you should not have that sort of worry. <A> Probably not without also changing the ballast. <S> You could turn off the circuit breaker for the fixture, open it up, and read the label on the ballast to check - some can be used with either type of bulb; but most of the fixtures supplied new with T-12's at this point are bottom of the line and the ballast is T-12 only.
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T12 lamps with a ballast for T8 lamps might cause the ballast to go bad sooner, if T12 lamps (rated at 430 mA) draw more current than what a T8 lamp is rated at (265 mA) from your ballast rated for T8 lamps.
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What type of screws should I use? I am going to build a set of shelves for my wall to hold my bead jars. The shelves are narrow 4" nominal and very close together 3" is the farthest apart they will be. I'm using quality pine 1"x4"x3'. I'm extremely new at this, but am assuming I should use screws instead of nails. Any help would be fabulous. <Q> Depending how you make your joints, if you choose to use screws, they need to go into the joining piece at least 3/4"-1" deep, and deeper when going into the end of a piece, 1 1/2" is a good depth, For this you can use a 2" screw, countersunk a little. <S> The drawing below, may have a little more info than what you are looking for, but it will give you options if you choose. <S> I would suggest putting a 1/4" thick plywood back, thinner will work too if available. <S> I have cut this with a razor knife if you do not have a table saw. <S> The back can be nailed on with 1' brads after the shelves are assembled <S> If you are not concerned about the looks and it will be a utility type shelf <S> these are the screws I would use. <S> Still nail the back on with 1" brads <S> Any of these countersinks will do what you need, make sure you keep your drill perpendicular to the wood and in the center of the shelf for the thickness, about 3/4" from the edge from the front and back. <A> As a newbie, I'd do it like this:Get 4 pine boards and screw them together into a nice shelf sized rectangle. <S> Nail a piece of 1/8" fibreboard or plywood to the back to stabilize the shape. <S> Get more boards for the individual shelves. <S> (these'll have to be cut about 1/2" shorter than the inside of the case's rectangle to accomodate hardware described below)Get some bookcase shelf supports and strips: <S> Like this: <S> You'll need a total of 4 strips, and 4 supports for every shelf you want. <S> Look around for these, prices vary greatly, but they shouldn't be all that expensive. <S> Screw the support strips into the inside of your wooden fram, and put in the shelf supports where you want them. <S> You're done. <S> This design has the advantage that when you suddenly find yourself with some 5 inch bead jars, you'll be able to adjust the shelving without starting an entire new woodworking project. <S> They offer plenty of support, without having to do any routing. <S> 5/8" woodscrews will serve to attach the strips to the sides of the shelves. <S> Oh yes, always drill pilot holes when screwing deeply into pine. <S> The wood loves to split. <A> Wood screws are probably your best bet. <S> They don't need to be huge, but at least 1-1/4" or so. <S> I'd also highly recommend predrilling holes with a wood drill bit prior to setting the screws or you could crack the wood. <S> Nails would probably work too.
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I use 2" drywall screws for all my rough carpentry projects.
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How can I fix floor cracks in bathtub (enamel?) coating? We just moved into our new home (not a new build) and noticed flaking of the material in the bottom of one of the bathtubs. It appears as though the coating (enamel?) has flaked away in some places. We haven't noticed any leaking, but we're not sure how much of a problem something like this could be and we'd like to fix it before it becomes something bigger. Is there an easy way to repair this? <Q> Most home centers will carry a porcelain touch-up paint. <S> I have used it for chips but not for repairs as large as your photos show. <S> Trying it won't make it any worse. <S> As an alternative you can see if you it is possible to identify the tub manufacturer. <S> It is possible that it still is under warranty. <S> Several full scale repairs options are available with out replacement of the tub. <S> One type involves installation of a specially molded liner that covers the entire tub. <S> The other involves coating the tub with an epoxy like material. <S> Neither of these are do-it <S> yourself projects but generally are less costly than having the tub replaced. <A> I would guess that the tub may not be properly supported/bedded - thin steel and fiberglass tubs need a layer of support between the tub and the floor. <S> The tub probably has noticeable flex when you step into it, and this flexing is breaking the enamel off. <S> Traditionally plaster, or spray-foam (polyurethane) <S> these days quite commonly. <S> If you have any DIY inclinations, the "tub-refitters" will not seem so inexpensive. <S> They are only (possibly) inexpensive as compared to a full-on contractor remodel, if then. <S> And the result is often not satisfactory (do some web searching.) <S> There are some real horror stores out there. <S> I have personal experience only insofar as getting figures in the $4000 range to "refit" a tub that was failing, and reading enough about problems to opt not to go there. <S> The new tub was $250, new plumbing was $80, new surround was $350 after I saw what the $170 version looked like when I got it home (much too thin and cheesy, returned and upgraded.) <S> A wee bit less than $4000... <S> It's messy and takes a while, but this is "one of the tubs" so <S> at least you have another one you can use while ripping this one apart - which would be my suggestion. <S> In the meantime, you're fine to use this until it actually rusts through and starts leaking. <S> I don't hold out much hope for the enamel repair, but it's worth a shot. <A> I don't know that I'd do this myself. <S> There's quite a bit that can go wrong in DIY tub resurfacing and repair. <S> I was reading the other day where these people did a cheap kit from Home Depot and it started peeling and discoloring two months later. <S> There's also toxic fumes involved and not many bathrooms are well-ventilated. <S> If it were me, I'd just contact a handyman to take care of it for me and have it done right. <S> It should end up cheaper than having to replace your tub.
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A local search for Tub-refitters should yield some results.
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Two A/C units are close to each other and turning one on turns the other on. How to fix? I had an Air Con unit installed in the Living Room and another in a bedroom adjacent to the Living Room, both from the same brand. The Air Con units are actually next to each other, and only separated by a wall that has a doorway just 3 feet from the Air Cons. Most of the time, when I am on the couch and turn on the Air Con in the Living Room using the Remote Control, it also turns on the Air Con in the bedroom, which is a waste of energy. Likewise, when I am in the bedroom and turn on the Air Con in the bedroom with its Remote Control, most of the time it also turns on the Air Con in the Living Room, which is also a waste of energy. How can I fix this very frustrating problem without moving the units and without having to keep the door always closed between the bedroom and the Living Room? EDIT: As requested, the 2 indoor units that are interfering are the Daikin FTXS20K and the Daikin FTXS35K : http://www.daikin.co.uk/products/index.jsp?singleprv=FTXS-K <Q> I have 3 units air con of same brand in my office room. <S> So all 3 units will turn on/off at the same time, by single one remote control. <S> So I used a brown tape to cover the signal emitter to weaken the signal strength, and it works. <S> But i have to place the remote control very near to the relatively air con, and i can control each air con individually. <A> The remotes use infrared light to control the AC units. <S> Because the AC units are both in the same general direction from the remote, the wide angle beam from the remote is controlling both units. <S> I see two solutions: Move one or both AC units. <S> I'm guessing it's not practical, or you wouldn't be asking for advice. <S> It may not be the best solution, but it would work. <S> Find a way to use the remotes without pointing them at the AC units. <A> As already noted, the remotes use infrared light. <S> The problem is that they all use the same codes. <S> This is, in fact, why there are "universal remotes" for TVs - <S> each manufacturer picks a set of codes and uses it for many different models of equipment, and for replacement of a lost or broken remote all you need is a remote that uses the same codes. <S> With TVs this is usually not an issue as most people only have one per room. <S> The solution is to limit the range of the beam. <S> First figure out where the signal is coming from. <S> Typically this is on the end, but it may not be obvious. <S> You can figure it out by selectively blocking sections of the remote until you find out which section prevents the remote from functioning. <S> Then make a cone or tube out of some material that blocks the remote and tape it around the signal emitter so that the signal will only be "visible" in a narrow area. <S> Once this is done, you will need to aim the remote at one A/C unit and it should not activate the other unit. <A> This manual (page 5) is for the L series units, but by memory the remotes and controls are the same/very similar. <S> Cut the jumper J4 in the battery compartment of the remote, and jumper JA in the electrical compartment of the indoor unit. <S> Be aware that the electrical compartment has live wires inside . <S> Cut power to the unit before opening it. <S> Only do this on one unit , or you'll have the same issue again.
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You could use strategically placed mirrors or IR remote extenders to redirect or retransmit the signals to the correct unit. Change the address on one of the units. Keep the bedroom door closed so light from the living room remote can't control the bedroom AC unit. A solid opaque plastic should work (one site I found indicates that typical black plastic trash bag will transmit infrared) or cardboard (white paper will decrease infrared signals some but probably not enough). You may need to experiment a bit to find an effective material.
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Find replacement decorative wood spindle for screen door I have a wood screen door in the screened-in porch that is missing a decorative spindle. It came with the house, so I don't know the manufacturer. There are also no marking anywhere on it, and I've asked a few contractors about suggestions to no avail. I have yet to see any doors at the box scores, along with a local Harvey Industries store, and it seems modern doors are either fiberglass or metal. The door is fine and I'd like to find a replacement spindle or have one made, but I'm not sure where to look. I lack the woodworking skills and tools to "clone" myself, so I was asking here for suggestions. Link to album with images of the door: http://imgur.com/a/tmuMx <Q> A local wood working shop with a lathe can replicate one of those, if you get them a template <S> and you let them know the size of the pin on ONE end. <A> If they are about 6 inches long, how about one of these <S> If it's not quite right, you can search the web for decorative spindles and find either one that matches or a full set of similar spindles and replace them all. <S> This may still be chaper than having one custom made by a wood shop. <A> That's actually a pretty common shape design you would probably not have as much problem finding as you might think if you have an architectural salvage type place nearby. <S> They were mass produced and I see them often when I'm out at those type places. <S> Here's an example (not an endorsement, just an example) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-15-Architectural-Salvage-Wood-Spindles-8-1-2-/151206600920?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23349da0d8 <A> A possible lowcost alternative might be your local vocational school. <S> If you know any highschool age kids in your neighborhood they might be able to get you the contacts you need. <S> In my area the typical cost is the cost of materials.
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Some quick scouring on the web at places like ebay would probably also turn something up or possibly even at a local hardware store in the right section.
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How can I smooth out a poor drywall repair? I am a new 1st time home owner. The house I purchased is an older home, and has had some "renovations". The people who were there before me 'remodeled' the kitchen by taking out a wall that had cabinets to open the kitchen up a bit more. They did a very poor job at fixing the drywall in the ceiling where the cabinets & wall were. Image below: Is there anything I can do to easily smooth that out? It bumps out a bit, and is beginning to crack. Would I need to cut out that whole piece and re-do it to make it look half decent? Also, in the stairwell in my home there is a very distinct line, where the 2 pieces of drywall on top of each other meet. Is there anything that can be done to minimize that line as well? (image below) Click for full size image <Q> You would then sand it smooth, prime and repaint the entire surface. <S> Unless the drywall is water damaged or has significant physical damage <S> (doesn't look like the case), you will not have to cut out anything. <S> On the ceiling you might be able to get away with just repainting the entire ceiling (prime first!) <S> as people are unlikely to get close enough to it to really notice a few imperfections. <S> I suspect it is more noticeable in your case because of the color difference due to the paint fading at different rates. <A> If there are bulges, it will be much better if you dig them out to below the average level of the wall or ceiling; that way you will likely have less to fill. <S> If you have to dig out more than an inch deep, you will have to fill first with something solid, like a piece of wood screwed into whatever is available below surface. <S> Then you can start filling in no more than 1/4 inch layers. <S> Even if a stud is bulging out a bit you can shave that down. <S> I had to do just that in my previous house when I prepped it for sale, after 15 years of settling. <A> The ceiling looks to have paper tape under the mud, which is normally only used in corner joints. <S> For a quicker turn around, and more satisfying finish - it would probably be best to scrape all of the tape and mud from this repair off, then re-tape the joints using fiberglass tape. <S> After the initial coat on each of the seams, treat the entire space as one repair - skimming the middle section and out into the surrounding area of the ceiling. <S> When your done, you should have one giant spot, twice the size of the original area. <S> You should only mess with the "piece" of drywall, as far as ensuring it is secured properly, and of similar thickness to the pieces surrounding it. <S> The wall looks like a paper joint as well, but in this case, there doesn't appear to be any mud backing the tape up. <S> If this joint is soft, and can be pushed in - you will need to cut all of the loose tape out, as well as any loose pieces of sheet rock, then re-tape the joint, with fiberglass tape - feathering out into both pieces, far enough make both pieces appear as one. <S> In both cases, several thin coats, can go a long way, in making the repairs easier to sand and paint. <S> Don't try to get it done all in one day either. <S> In some cases, even a small patch job, can take two or three days, just waiting for the mud to dry, especially on exterior walls and ceilings.
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You will need to smooth it out by applying increasingly wide applications of drywall mud; depending on how rough it is it might take 2-3 coats.
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Replacing battery in backup sump pump I have a PHCC 2400 battery backup sump pump. It started beeping today and the controller light indicated that the battery terminals were corroded or that the battery was bad. I opened up the case and checked the terminals, no corrosion. I pulled the plug on the controller (charger) and tested the battery and it read 12VDC. The manufacturer sells two different replacement batteries. One that you fill yourself and one that is pre-filled and sealed. Can I use something like this instead? Note: I found the actual product on ebay which lists it at 12V, 90A max. So it would seem the universal battery I found would fit the specs. <Q> As long as the battery supplies the correct voltage and amperage, yes, you can use it. <A> There are several important factors when replacing a battery with a different one: <S> Form factor: size, shape, terminal type and location should ideally be the same. <S> This can be worked around in most cases, just make sure the battery will fit somewhere and that you can wire it properly. <S> Voltage: must be identical Chemistry: <S> the existing charger probably only handles lead acid batteries, which all the ones you linked to are Capacity: measured in Amp Hours (Ah). <S> This is the total capacity of the battery. <S> It needs to be similar to the old one. <S> Too low and the pump wont run as long. <S> In most cases higher is ok, but a lot higher could cause tue charger to overheat. <S> Maximum current: <S> Measured in Amps (A). <S> Sadly not all batteries will list this. <S> It needs to be the same or higher. <S> A battery that can't supply enough voltage to run the pump wont work. <A> A deep cycle marine battery is a reasonable compromise between the dedicated sump battery and a light discharge car battery. <S> The deep discharge potential is the problem: car batteries react poorly to getting used to the point of exhaustion, especially repeatedly. <S> The sump use profile matters also: <S> If the battery sump runs often and hard, buy the manufacturer recommended battery. <S> If the sump runs almost never because your power is reliable, you can skimp with an automotive/marine battery. <S> Sadly, the chargers on sumps are notorious for poor battery management. <S> They overcharge batteries, charge them too fast, and are generally stupidly dumb. <S> In general if your charger or battery are warm in everyday standby mode there's a problem, and you'll burn through backup batteries even in dry weather. <S> The good news is your charger actually warned you before the flood. <S> That's good. <A> The detailed instructions for PHCC 1730/2400 <S> Pro Series say to use lead-acid batteries only (which are maintenance types). <S> The 1370 says "Do Not Use with Maintenance-Free battery." <S> That leaves only two solutions for a corroded terminals signal on the PHCC systems when using a maintenance-free battery with them. <S> 1. <S> Muffle the noise somehow, or 2. <S> replace the backup system with one that works with a maintenance-free battery. <S> Eg., one of the recent Watchdog series. <S> The latter might be worth it to avoid adding distilled water to a lead-acid battery three to four times a year. <S> Ugh. <A> I've been using 105 amp/hr. " <S> maintenance free" marine deep-cycle batteries. <S> I just had to replace mine after 3 years and a good quality name brand cost only $82 at a big box home improvement center (national chain.) <S> You've got to shop around. <S> (These are supposedly sealed, maintenance-free batteries but the two large caps/covers are easily removable.) <S> Remove the large cap closest to the positive terminal and drill a small hole just large enough for your sensor to go through into the electrolyte in the second cell <S> and you can add DISTILLED water as necessary to maintain your electrolyte level. <S> (My batteries would probably last a little longer if I took the time to "exercise" them <S> but I seldom get around to it.)I've <S> had numerous hours-long power failures and never had a problem. <A> You can use a car battery for this -- 12v and plenty of amperage, not to mention cheaper. <S> You may need to adapt the leads to it.
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If you can't find the exact specs of the battery, in general if the original and replacement batteries are the same physical size and same chemistry (both lead acid), the capacity and max current will be similar enough that they won't cause problems.
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What is this, and can my dryer work without it? My clothes dryer had about a quarter of the rope in the image hanging out from inside the door. By pulling it the rest of it came out. Looks like some sort of gasket that's broken. Questions: Does anybody know what it is? Can the dryer operate without it? Dryer maker/model: General Electric Profile <Q> The item referred to as a "rope" is likely to be either the drive belt or the felt strip that the drum rides on. <S> If the dryer drum still turns when the unit is turned on then what you pulled out is not the drive belt! <S> On the other hand the belt could have torn in which case the motor will no longer be able to turn the drum. <S> Clearly you would not be able to ignore and run the dryer without the belt. <S> The felt acts as a low friction bearing surface for the front support of the drum. <S> If this is what you pulled out of your dryer then you do not want to attempt to operate the dryer without replacing the felt strip. <S> To do so would lead to more serious damage as the drum became a metal to metal or metal to plastic bearing surface in the drum track. <S> For most dryers the replacement of the drive belt or the felt strip is relatively easy. <S> You typically have to remove the front loading door assembly and the front housing of the dryer. <S> (There may be other pre-steps to get to the point of being able to remove the front housing). <S> Once you have access to the front of the drum it is easy to slide a new drive belt around the drum and onto the motor shaft and belt tightener/idler assembly. <S> If it is the felt strip being replaced it is necessary to clean away any of the old felt debris and then afix the replacement strip into place on the drum. <S> Note that the felt strip could be installed either on the drum itself or on the round track that is part of the front housing. <S> It is typical for the opposing surface the runs in the track where the felt is placed is lined with a surface made of a hard slippery type of plastic. <A> This looks similar to the felt liner that came loose from my Kenmore Elite 6 year old dryer. <S> I called several reputable repairmen/companies and got similar quotes of $600.00 and they said it was not worth repairing, at Home Depot and Costco inquiring about replacements and adhesive <S> was also a dead end. <S> Googling felt liners and adhesive turned up "Seal All" (available at automotive stores and maybe Walmart). <S> Seal All says it is not good for higher than 150 degrees <S> F. <S> I don’t think my dryer gets that warm, so I gave it a shot. <S> I tried to pry my dryer apart to get the drum out with no success. <S> So, I put a bead of Seal All on the stitch side of the felt that adheres to the drum and shoved it back in.......... <S> WORKED!!!!!!! <S> Clothes are drying just fine and the liner is staying in place. <S> but it just made sense to me to try. <A> Felt gasket is what give the proper space between the tumbler drum and the front door and frame , when is worn ,start making a friction noise cause by the rotating drum touching the front part frame of your dryer , is easy to fix and can be confused with major repair causes. <A> It looks like the seal on the dryer door. <S> See if there is any residue along the periphery of the door. <A> You can buy replacement felt seal kits for the drum, and for the front door.
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The felt strip is typically fitted around the front periphery of the drum where it fits into a round track on the front housing of the dryer. They are relatively easy to replace but do require disassembling the dryer. Search on ebay for dryer felt seal kits. My felt liner was still in great shape so I am pretty certain it would not work with an old tattered felt liner and accept no responsibility if it doesn’t work for you
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Why does my stud finder detect electrical wires over a large area of my wall? I wanted to install a shelving system into my closet. The stud finder seems to detect live wires over a large area (approximately 4 by 4 feet!) The closet is in the basement, with no power outlets except the light fixture. But the stud finder's signal turns on about 3 feet above ground and continues all the way to the ceiling. I checked it with two different stud finders (same result). Question: is this even possible??? That there is so much going on behind a closet wall? I don't want to drill through any wires, but honestly, a closet like this, without shelves is quite useless... <Q> Here is an easy method to determine the location of live wires, with a stud finder. <S> I have a stud finder on which there is no means to adjust the sensitivity of the live wire detector. <S> However, you may use paper for the same purpose. <S> Stud finder is sensitive to the electric field; electric field depends on the distance (i.e. how far you are from the live wire) and the medium (i.e. the material between you and wire (air or other material). <S> If you put some paper between the stud finder and the wall you decrease the sensitivity of the stud finder. <S> The thickness of the pages may go from one page to 1 centimeter or more depending on the current in the wire, and the paint used on the wall. <S> Good luck. <A> With most live wire detectors there is an adjustment wheel that sets the sensitivity. <S> If you have this turned up too high <S> it won't give a localised reading. <S> Usual procedure is to turn the device on, then in free air, adjust the sensitivity up until the detector emits a tone, then turn back until it turns off. <S> So you may need to back off the sensitivity further. <S> For example if you have a power outlet and know the cables run vertically from that outlet, use that area to adjust the sensitivity to give a good localised indication of the wire run. <S> Then try it in your closet. <S> If you have un-insulated hollow interior walls ("stud walls") and can justify buying, renting or borrowing an inspection camera, you may be able to make a small hole in a "safe" area and use that to locate wooden studs. <A> Tip stolen from an Amazon review: TIP: if you keep getting beeps that electrical wires are present EVERYWHERE you point at the wall, touch the wall with your other hand to ground the wall. <S> Plaster is not properly grounded so the sensor will show false signal. <S> Recommended <A> High moisture levels in the substrate will trigger false live wire readings. <S> I've gotten voltage readings over my entire house (brick walls). <A> It's best to do a visible inspection. <S> Just cut a small hole at the level of a normal power outlet and use a flash light and mirror to look up in the cavity wall. <S> After the inspection, either patch the wall/paint or just install a blank plate over the hole. <S> If you don't have a mirror, a camera phone with a flash works pretty well. <A> It could be the power lines inducing eddy currents in lead paint, which the detector would interpret as a live cable. <A> The live wire detectors can give false positives with no wires in the area. <S> I use tic testers all the time and when close to any on my 3 high voltage transformers they will go nuts for a large area. <S> To find the stud when the detector is giving false info turn off the circuit or circuits that may have wires running in the wall, now find the stud and mark both sides or the left and right <S> so you know the stud location. <S> When using screws to install shelf hardware use 1-1/4" or shorter screws and this will allow clearance of the wallboard / plaster as the wires are required to be 1-1/4" from the face of the stud. <S> Using this method the screw will be centered in the stud so of the wire is filling down the side of the board the wires will be fine. <S> I have used this method for many years and never hit a wire that was installed to code.
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You will see that the stud finder sounds for electricity only when it comes on top of the wire; you can pinpoint the location of the wire exactly. Sensitivity may be affected by metalwork on the other side of the plasterboard/drywall. I use phone book pages for this purpose (they are free and you may add as many pages as needed). I hope this info helps someone. Test the detector somewhere else.
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In what way does varnish protect wood? When researching wood finishes, I often see that varnish is attributed with the ability to "protect" wood. In what way does varnish protect wood? From scratching? From fading? From moisture? From direct contact with water? From something else? <Q> A much better explanation can be found in the book Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. <S> It has been through several editions so your local public library should have a copy. <S> He debunks a lot of myths and is pretty scientific while still being practical. <S> [edit] <S> I feel like I trivialized the question in my first answer. <S> Here is a bit more on the topic. <S> Wood has pores in it <S> and so the pores will fill up with dirt, oil from your hands, and schmutz in general. <S> The finish you put on the wood will protect it from this and make it easier to clean off. <S> It also protects the wood from water although how much protection it gives depends on the finish. <S> Varnish does a pretty good job with both of these. <S> Furthermore, polyurethane varnish often has UV blockers in it to protect the wood from changes in color due to sunlight (or UV from whatever source). <S> No finish does a very good job of protecting from scratches but some finishes are more easily repaired from scratches than others. <A> As @bib says in his comment, the purpose of the finish is really dependent on what the wood is being used for. <S> Most wood finishes will provided at least a little protection from drying and abrasion, but other than <S> that it's really application specific. <S> (By the way you use the word "varnish", which is a specific category of wood finishes, but there are many others.) <S> For instance: Spar varnish is typically used on wood outside where protection from UV light and water is critical. <S> Polyurethane is often used for wood floors because it forms a very hard, tough surface that protects against abrasion. <S> French polish is a finish (actually more of a technique) used on fine furniture which gives the wood a very lustrous glow, although it's actually not that protective. <S> Tung oil is a finish with good waterproofing qualities and is also food safe, so it's used for kitchen utensils, bowls, etc. <S> Epoxy may be used where flexibility is important. <S> ... <S> and about 20 more types. <A> Varnish is a clear, transparent substance that is used on woods. <S> But why? <S> Well, not only does it give the wood a shiny glow, it also blocks up the tiny holes in the wood. <S> This prevents the wood from absorbing the water, which can cause it to swell, rot and smell quite badly
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Generally speaking, varnish makes the wood look pretty and shiny and protects it from water although the protection is not perfect.
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What kind of wall switch is needed for a natural gas fireplace to ignite consistently? When we moved in, our natural gas fireplace worked well: Flick the switch & it would ignite. Years later, it started acting erratically: Sometimes, the switch worked, other times, no luck. We'd try turning the switch off & on again a few times ( "Hello, IT. Have you tried turning it off & on again?" ) and occasionally that would get it going. Most recently, the workaround hasn't, & the burners fail to ignite 100% of the time. The pilot is fine. Knowing the fireplace doesn't use the house power (we could use it even during an outage), I figured the voltage was low enough for me to troubleshoot. I disconnected the switch and tried to turn on the fireplace by carefully joining the conductors. This worked 100% of the time. So, I believed the fireplace was OK and decided the switch needed to be replaced. Since I had it open already, I immediately installed a spare switch I had lying around. This worked well at first, turning the fireplace on & off 100% of the time on that first day . However, the next day, it was acting up again and failing most of the time. I'm thinking it worked that first day since I'd warmed up the fireplace by connecting the wires, and subsequent attempts that immediately followed, using the new switch, could take advantage of the higher starting heat that generated just enough voltage. However, once the fireplace cooled to the pilot-only ambient temperature the next day, it wasn't enough voltage. What kind of switch, exactly, should I be getting to fix this? I checked our big-box hardware stores but their switches all seem rated for typical 120V+ use. I spotted thermostats in the fireplace section, yet no switches. Where, generally speaking, might I find what I'm looking for? I'd prefer just a wall switch, and I don't want to call somebody in to fix this. <Q> The thermopile in your fireplace puts out millivolts, nothing near the 120V <S> the light switch was designed for. <S> A generic low voltage switch from a electronics store, or ripped out of a toy, would probably do it (for example a 12V SPST). <S> Really here the smaller the better, but beware of anything too cheap as that may put you down the wrong path again. <S> There are some fireplace specific forums which could help, particularly with a model number given. <S> An example is http://www.hearth.com/talk/ . <S> The above image is from "Discover Circuits Magazine (December 2009 Issue 4)", which has a guide on this exact topic along with a clever booster solution from one "Mr. Wily Widget". <S> Find it over at http://www.discovercircuits.com/dc-mag/Issue_4/pg-7.htm <S> You can also try cleaning the thermopile which may have crust of soot. <S> Measure the voltage between those two exposed wires to see if your cleaning makes an improvement. <A> I had the same problem, tried everything, replaced the switch and the thermopile, no avail. <S> Then finally I removed the pilot light assembly, the top just pops off and using a straw blew a bunch of dust out of it. <S> The result was a better flame on the thermopile which allowed the valve to open, try that. <A> In my previous house I installed an X10 relay to trigger the fireplace from across the room. <S> I never had the switch problem or a problem with the relay. <A> Does anyone know what voltage a "healthy" thermopile produces? <S> A little Googling does not give me a clear answer; I've seen everything from 30mV to 750mV, but I am leaning towards 750mV being the correct answer. <S> I have the problem described in this thread and my thermopile is producing 300mV DC from the pilot light, measured at the switch. <S> I've taken an AA battery and lit the fireplace at the switch, and if I turn the switch on while the fireplace is burning the 300mV is enough to hold the valve and keep the fireplace burning, but apparently not enough to open the valve. <S> In addition to looking for answers on the expected voltage from a thermopile, I thought the approach of using a AA battery at the switch to light the fireplace might prove useful to others. <A> I had the same problem, intermittent flames, sometimes no response <S> no matter how long I leave the switch to on position. <S> Thanks to the knowledge here <S> I measured the voltage on the wire and it was 320 millivolts. <S> So I cleaned the contacts and the wire and reassembled the switch. <S> Voila, works perfectly now. <S> Thanks everybody. <S> Just a little sandpaper on the wires and contacts.
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It's probably just a matter of finding a switch with a low enough on resistance.
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Cast Iron to ABS - exterior of cast iron not smooth - how to stop leak at coupling? I have 2" cast iron pipe that is for kitchen waste. I had to cut out a 32" section of the pipe under the concrete slab of the basement because a wye had failed. I have replaced the cast iron pipe with ABS and used American Valve couplings to connect the ABS to cast iron. The only problem is the cast iron pipe is not smooth on the surface. After almost 50 years of being under the basement slab it has "junk" and rock pieces adhered to its surface. I have tried to smooth the surface of the pipe but I can't get it 100% smooth. So the coupling cannot seal perfectly. I still get a little leak around one of the couplings. Would anyone have any suggestions as how to stop the leak? Thanks! <Q> One of these ironic things? <S> ("American" Valve - Made in Taiwan...) <S> For sheer desperation, I'm not sure if silicone or beeswax (from a toilet seal ring, of course) would be the better desperation move. <S> With kitchen waste it could get too hot for beeswax. <A> I have seen pipe as corroded as you speak of. <S> It might be good to grind off the excess rust flakes with a small right angle grinder, or you could use a disk sander. <S> The trick will be to get all around the pipe and the part prone to leaking is the most difficult to get to. <S> Ecnerwal's idea about the emery cloth would work, I would suggest finding the coarsest grit possible, belts for a belt sander would allow a coarser grit to be had, just cut the loop and a strip will be made. <S> I would use 32 grit to start, or at least have it on hand, finer grits would readily clog. <S> I would still use a powered grinder or disk of some sort, then the inaccessible bottom can be cleaned using the strip made by the sanding belt, working it the way Ecnerwal says. <S> A little research and that can be found. <S> It would be handy to preserve the fresh metal that the grinding and sanding would expose. <A> If the connectors for the new section have rubber inserts there is a chance they may have dried. <S> I found that spraying with WD-40 works by swelling the rubber. <S> It may be worth a try to spray inside the fitting before securing.
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You should probably try to smooth the pipe out more - a lot can be done with a narrow strip of coarse sandpaper, wrapped around the pipe so you can "saw" it back and forth. You can also try really cranking on the hose clamps - if you're only using a screwdriver, you haven't really hit what they can do (but you have to maintain some sense of proportion once you switch to using a socket and ratchet on them, or you'll find the breaking point.) Once cleaned up a bit, there is a sealer that I seen plumbers use for the Fernco (neoprene)couplers.
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Can I dim LED lights when there are two different switches for the same fixture? I would like to place dimmers in two different rooms that are sometimes a bit over lit. Is that possible when both areas have two switches for the recessed lighting? Do I need to replace both switches with LED dimmer switches? <Q> No, you should not have to replace both of the existing switches on each circuit. <S> You won't be able to dim from both ends, of course. <S> You just need a " 3-Way LED Dimmer " and follow the appropriate wiring. <A> Yes you can <S> and I have a basement full of LEDs that are dimmed from either side of basement. <S> Use a product like this . <S> I have heard people say that these dimmers can't be used for all LEDs <S> but I have not had an issue. <S> So basically one of the switches is the master - you see that one has the lights to signify the dimming on it. <S> The other is the slave. <S> They both can dim. <S> When you dim the slave it signals to the master switch to dim. <S> I have 5 sets of these Lutron dimmers in my house and they are great because they work great <S> but also they are cheaper than buying individual dimmers from $30-40. <A> You cannot have a dimmer circut using two dimmers, HOWEVER <S> , i do believe that you can find a solution. <S> The first is to use a wireless dimmer, with two transceivers. <S> The other is to wire the correct Dimmer on one switch, the dimmer type must be the bell press button type and not the rheostat type with the knob. <S> These dimmers use a low current circut to determine the dimmer factor (as you press the button, the dimmer will cycle between dimming and full light) <S> You could then simply wire the second switch to the first switch's dimmer circuit (the same way the first one is setup) <S> LED lights cannot really dim, <S> the dim effect that you get is actually a switching circuit which turns the light off and on really quickly, the dimmer the light, the longer the time that the led is momentarily off for... <S> Each light manufacturer will ahve a list of dimmer types (trailing edge and leading edge) as well as manufacturers which are approved to work as a dimmer... make sure you buy a compatible dimmer module for your lights. <S> see the image below.
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Replace one of the switches (on each set of lights that have two switches) with the dimmer - the other switch will turn them on or off, at wherever the dimmer is set.
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Can I use the area above my garage for storage? The ceiling joists in my garage are 2x8 spaced 24" o.c., and span 21'. The roof load appears to be carried by the walls, so the joists seem to only be in place to hold the drywall. I'd like to use the space for light storage (holiday decorations, etc), but I'm not sure if the joists are up for the task. Obviously I'd want to add some decking; so items don't fall through the drywall, but that also adds to the weight the joists will have to carry. Will I be able to do what I want, or will I have to upgrade the joists? Since it's a garage (where cars have to park), I can't add mid span support without a huge undertaking. <Q> As is, given a quick look at load calculators and those inputs, probably not. <S> even reducing live and dead loads to 20PSF (minimum live load for a "storage attic" and a pretty low storage load) and allowing lots of deflection, it's too much for a 2x8. <S> Your best/most cost-effective approach would probably be to convert rafters and joists into a truss system by adding web elements between the rafters and joists. <S> You'll need a structural engineer, but it's the least added material. <S> My trusses spanning 24 feet are all 2x4 material, so it should not take much to make a 2x8 lower chord carry a reasonable load without support from below. <S> So you'll spend some money on engineering and save a good deal in getting it done, while having some peace of mind. <A> Any 'credible and/or official sources' will tell you to hire a Structural Engineer, which is what I'll say also. <S> There are too many variables and unknowns for Internet advice to suffice. <S> Prepare well to minimize costs, supplying all dimensions and drawings, and schedule a site visit. <S> The Engineer may be able to give the details for a top truss run perpendicular to the existing joists. <S> Gravity can't tell the difference between top and bottom. <S> A top truss or beam will create a lump or ridge on the attic storage floor. <S> The 2x8 joists would be held up with strap hangers. <S> The two ends of the truss must be supported, which could be difficult if there's a two car garage door. <S> You'd need to remove siding to slide the beam in place. <S> Or as @Ecnerwal wrote the engineer may prefer to retrofit the existing peaked roof into a series of trusses by adding web elements. <S> These might go in very easily from the inside. <S> Family Handyman has an article that has a good analogous bottom support example. <S> Prepare to DIY the work, not the engineering. <A> Looking at the maximum joist span requirements for southern pine, 30 lbs/ft^2 live and 10 lbs/ft^2 dead load (the minimum values in my chart) <S> I'm seeing a 2x8 at 24" spacing cap out between 12-13' (depending on wood grade, and this number will also vary by wood type). <S> Best guess is that these joists were originally designed for an unfinished space where there was no load and the drywall was added later. <S> The wood bracing you see connecting to the roof is for lateral support, effectively a shear wall, to keep the roof from pancaking. <S> Going down the table for the maximum joist spans, a 2x10 spaced every 12" is rated for the above loads for a 20' span (+/- <S> depending on the wood grade). <S> Reducing your load requirements would make this an acceptable for your purposes. <S> The 2x8 will cap out between 15-16' depending on the grade if you reduced the spacing to 12". <S> This is all based on my "Handyman in your pocket" guide, ymmv, <S> consult with a structural engineer to be sure, and other standard disclaimers apply. <A> I suppose if you stick to the idea of "light storage" it might be able to. <S> Best to always get a bit of a calculation in. <S> If I'm to be entirely honest, you'll end up using that storage space for lots <S> more than light storage let me tell you that. <S> Clutter tends to creep up on you. <S> So to play safe you might want to get them reinforced anyway.
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The joists are almost certainly taking some tension load (keeping the walls from spreading) from the roof, at least, unless it's very strangely built.
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Frame Overhanging Slab by 3inches and not attached to support bolts I'm using a contractor to build a brand new 2000sq foot home. There is one section on the house that looks suspect. The slab subs obviously overpoured, and it looks like it was compounded even more by the framers doing a shoddy job. There are two 5 foot sections that are not attached to the slab bolts (if that's what you call them), and the corner support strap is bent all up. Can anyone tell me if this is 'normal' or not? My builder said this is not uncommon and that it is secure and that 'all is well', but I'm a little apprehensive to just let this one go. My bank is going by for an inspection soon, so should I bring this up to them, or call in a 3rd party inspector? Any thoughts, please I'm open for suggestions. I'm adding some pictures here: <Q> That is not normal or acceptable workmanship. <S> Clearly that point was missed. <S> The larger problem for you is that you are already entered into a contract with an incompetent, lying builder. <S> I'd have your lawyer/solicitor review your options at this point according to the terms of your contract. <S> I can't see a lot of hope for a happy outcome, unfortunately. <S> And yes, call in inspectors, notify the bank, etc. <A> thank you so much for the advice and comments. <S> The inspectpr came by yesterday and confirmed our concerns! <S> He is going to fail the framing inspection and has provided a write up for all the items we were questioning. <S> Keeping our eyes peeled for any issues moving forward. <A> This is not good, but how you handle it depends upon your aggressiveness. <S> When I built my previous house in 1996, I ended up sending the contractor a weekly fax which was always at least a page long. <S> My wife and I would close the house up every night on our way back to our temporary lodgings. <S> The quality of workmanship depends on you as well. <S> My contractor barely followed the plans, which their engineer had drawn. <S> As with most other service industries, like tech support, the quality of the service is determined mostly by your luck of who you draw. <S> Ultimately, after some really major problems and being threatened by the project foreman, I hired my own architect who took over the job with the blessing of the Building Inspector who was embarrassed because his office missed a half dozen violations that my new architect found. <S> Building a house is not for the feint of heart.
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The correct response to a foundation that far out of specification is to require the foundation contractors to rip it out and try again, or not get paid.
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How to stiffen flexible plywood We have a curved wall framed with steel studs 16"o.c. that will be finished with hardwood planks (running vertically on the wall). For the hardwoods substrate, they recommended plywood and normal plywood does not conform to the curve. Our lumber supplier suggested snakeply (wiggle wood, a.k.a flexible plywood) which conforms to the wall easily, but it is still very soft in between the studs. Is there a way to stiffen up the snakeply? <Q> Laminating a second layer of the same product should stiffen it substantially. <S> Once the first layer is positioned the way you want, spread several beads of construction adhesive across the face of it and conform a second layer over the first. <S> Tack in place with brads using a nailgun to hold it in place until the adhesive sets. <S> Note <S> : These flexible plywoods come in a variety of thicknesses. <S> It is likely that the thicker ones will be somewhat stiffer than the thin ones. <S> I realize that even the thick ones may not be rigid enough for your application. <A> Have you tried a really thin ply, such as Luaun? <S> 16" is a pretty tight radius but Luan should handle it. <S> You'd want to use 2 or 3 layers glueing them together as you apply them to make a nice rigid curved corner. <A> I have done so with 1/4" luan, for a tighter radius, (8-16"), cut the plywood across the short side. <S> The 4 ft. <S> rips will bend much more readily than ripped the 8 ft. way. <S> This is a much cheaper way and in my opinion, the curve created by the luan is a better quality bend, and easier to gauge than the bending (wavy)ply which I have used too, it dips readily between spans, unless it is built up in layers, which may complicate other aspects of your job. <S> Lap the next layer over the breaks of the first, this will help smooth out the ends at the first layer, which always has a flat spot at the last span at the ends. <S> Use the same glue for the paneling too. <S> Another question, if the studs are at 16" centers, it suggests it is a big radius, <S> maybe 4 ft.? <S> Typically a framed radius wall is done with a much tighter spacing, most of the time 8" apart. <S> If the radius of the wall is really tight (1 or 2ft for example) a 6" spacing is not unusual.
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2 layers of luan, bonded together with construction adhesive will provide a good backer to create your curved wall.
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Prevent air leaking from couplings on an air compressor hose I recently purchased an air compressor. When I turn it on without a hose attached, it seems to work fine. It gets up to 140 PSI and shuts off the motor. As soon as I attach the hose, I can't get it above 60 PSI. I can hear air leaking out both at the quick connect coupling to the air compressor and at the other end where I have an attachment screwed on the hose to fill car tires. This is similar to the connection on the air compressor (except that the female end is permanently attached to the compressor such that I can't unscrew it): I assume that Teflon tape on the threads would help the screw on connectors, but I'm at a loss as to how to make the quick connect couplers less leaky. <Q> You are correct that it is a good idea to use teflon tape on the threaded fittings, however no sealant is required or advised on the quick-connect part itself. <S> These are designed to seal using internal o-rings. <S> It is very likely that you have connected two incompatible types, resulting in a leak. <S> This is very common. <S> The two "main" types are often referred to as "automotive" and "industrial", though each can have sub-types that are typically letter designations, e.g. Industrial can be M, H or G. <S> There's also a type called ARO, and one called Lincoln, but these are somewhat less common (at least in the US consumer market). <S> (image from Legacy Manufacturing ) <S> Otherwise head to the local big box store with your male coupling that leaks, and look for a similar-while-slightly-different male coupler to try. <S> Legacy manufacturing has published a very informative guide on the evolution of the various types of quick-connect fittings that lists the common types in use, with some images of each. <S> Milton Industries has also published a document that may help identify the type of plug you have, though their letter designations may not exactly match those of other manufacturers. <A> If you do not get a fitting attached properly or it is incorrect in size, air will surely find it's way through. <S> Sometimes, ensuring there is no built up pressure and using a strong hand is required for some tools as we can sometimes think we got the fitting on all the way when, in fact, we did not. <S> On occasion, when airing my tires, if I was tired or wore out after a long day, I would hear air leaking out from the chuck and would thus realize I needed to use a little more strength <S> /forward pressure with the chuck. <S> Same when connecting a hose, sometimes you have to make sure you pull the attachment back all the way and keep it open until the relative parts are in place, flush and set, before you can make a good connection happen. <A> This will also allow you to use an industrial (type D) end with an automotive (type C) <S> Quick Connect socket. <S> It has worked for me many times in a pinch. <A> I bought my Campbell Hausfeld Professional Air Compressor, air hose, and fittings in 1995. <S> 4.5 HP Electric Motor, and a 20 gallon tank. <S> I used pipe dope on my fittings for my air tools, and for the air hoses. <S> I have never had a leak. <A> If you got quick connect couplings at a big home improvement store there are different types. <S> It might pay to change the one that is on the compressor to the others you purchased just to make sure they all match. <A> Hey did you try to tighten the quick coupling connector with a wrench?? <S> That should work and some of the teflon tape. <S> You should tighten all the connections with wrench.
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There are multiple types of quick-connect air line fittings that at first glance appear similar, but are not necessarily compatible. The documentation for your air compressor may specify exactly which type of fitting you have. Placing an O-ring inside the socket will stop the leaking between the end and the quick connect.
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How to poke coaxial cables out of a wall nicely? I have coaxial cables that are poking out of walls in numerous places all over the house. I don't use them and I don't know why there's so many coming out of each hole. These were left by the previous owner. They look ugly just sitting on the ground. This is illustrated on the right side of the following photo. How do I make it look nicer like the faceplated contraption on the left? How would I handle the 3 wires if I don't see anyone selling coxial faceplates with 3 holes? The niceley faceplated contraption on the left has holes, whereas the wires on the right have pointy metal pointing out. Is it okay to convert the pointy into the holely ones? I don't understand when you would use one over the other. What is the point of having 5 coaxial connections in one corner of the house? Is anyone going to put 3 TVs and 2 internet modems in one corner??? If there's no purpose, should I just cut off the wires and seal the wall? <Q> Shopping <S> They sell modular wall plates in 1 to 6 port flavors. <S> Pick up as many as you need from the local home improvement store. <S> Grab some F type modules, and some low voltage brackets while you're there. <S> Install the low voltage bracket. <S> Connect the cables to the modular jacks. <S> Install the modular wall plate in the low voltage bracket. <S> Holey VS. <S> Pointy <S> The pointy connectors are "male" connectors, whereas the holey connectors are "female". <S> When a male connector loves a female connector very much... <S> You get the picture (I hope). <S> Why so many? <S> There is no way to say for sure why there are so many cables here. <S> It's possible that some come from somewhere, while others go somewhere else. <S> For this a cable tracer such as the Gardner Bender Wire-Tracker , can come in handy. <A> There's a good chance that the extra cables were installed with the satellite dish; the cable requirements are a bit tighter than what you can often get away with antenna or satellite lines, so dish installers sometimes run new wires so they have a known good system, rather than spending time troubleshooting existing wires or worse, getting a callback due to signal issues. <S> If you don't intend to use the wires immediately, I'd cut them back to about 16", install a low voltage bracket as Tester101 suggests, stuff them in the wall and put a blank plate over it. <S> If you later want to use them, terminate them with male crimp or compression connectors and install a modular plate with inserts like Tester shows. <S> You'll be glad for the length while you're reterminating the cables. <S> I would not bother reterminating them until you need them; if you do switch back to satellite, the installer would probably prefer to terminate them unless you use professional grade compression connectors. <A> Go to Home Depot or Lowes and buy one of these: <S> Curl up the wires and stuff them in the wall while screwing the two you want to possibly use in the future to the back of the new wall plate. <S> Then just screw the wall plate to the wall: the screws won't hold the plate if you pull on the cover, but, if all you're trying to do is make it look prettier, that's the quick and dirty way to do it.
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Shorten the lengths of cable, and add new connectors to the ends ( you'll also have to buy these from the home improvement store, so go back and get them ). Installation Cut a hole in the wall large enough for the low voltage bracket to fit. You'll have to trace the cables to determine where they come from, or where they go to. Install the modular jacks in the modular wall plate.
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Replacing hardwired fire alarms with 10 year sealed alarms My house was built in 2004 and came with fire alarms pre-installed and hardwired. The alarms also use a 9V battery backup, so we have to replace the batteries regularly (not an easy task with 9 ft ceilings, neither of us is exceptionally tall). It's time to replace the alarms, and we were looking at the 10 year sealed lithium battery units (so we don't have to replace the batteries, we can test the alarms with a broom handle easily enough), but they don't seem to come in a hardwire variant. Should we do something with the wires that are coming out of the ceiling? Would it be safe to not have them hooked up to anything? The circuit that feeds the alarms also powers the master bedroom (this house was built during the construction boom and it's terrible). Would we loose any functionality by not using the hardwires? <Q> Bad idea. <S> Since the hard wiring was a building code requirement, a change could readily give your insurance company an excuse not to pay in case of a fire. <S> In addition your detectors are interconnected, so they all go off together. <S> Wireless connected models are not available with ten year batteries ( I wrote on this topic at http://www.squidoo.com/you-have-three-minutes-to-escape-linking-home-smoke-alarms ) Instead consider pairing new detectors with ultra long life 9V or AA lithium batteries: such batteries cost more but last longer. <S> And it's worth highlighting: smoke detector electronics generally come with a ten year rated lifespan (dating to 2004, as you note, yours are due for replacement). <S> Perhaps part of the problem was detectors that eat batteries? <S> The hardwire alarm batteries only come into play when power is out: a two or three year lifetime for each battery is the minimum you should expect, even from a conventional alkaline. <A> Many jurisdictions mandate <S> hardwired alarms because people forget to change batteries. <S> You should check with your local building authority about the requirements. <S> If you change something away from code, in addition to the risk, you many also be jeopardizing your insurance coverage. <A> I agree with the previous comments about not disconnecting the hard-wired. <S> As a Certifed Fire Inspector, I would call this out as a violation and would also tell you that you are putting your family at risk since currently if one alarm sounds, you are warned throughout the house. <S> Secondarily, it is not necessary to choose one over the other. <S> They are sold at your local big-box stores and several online retailers.
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The leading companies sell hard-wired smoke detectors with the 10-year batteries, so simply purchase the correct version.
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How do you install a solar light tube through an outside wall into the basement? In renovating a basement, is it possible to install a solar-light-tube through the wall to the outside and still gather light? <Q> I'm assuming you need at least one bend to do this? <S> Otherwise you could just put in a window. <S> Adding bends significantly decreases light transmission. <S> The inlet also needs an open view of the sky for maximum light gathering. <S> An inlet on or next to a wall cuts access at least in half, possibly more depending on orientation. <S> You could run it up to the roof just like a chimney, but added length also diminishes light transmission. <S> These tubes are best with fairly straight, short runs. <S> Complex installations are just not worth it. <S> It's relatively weak otherwise. <S> The manufacturer has recommended maximum bends and lengths in their installation instructions, based on a roof top inlet. <S> The maximums should be reduced significantly for wall installations. <A> Will the tube be straight? <S> Are you running the tube above the foundation and sill and under the floor joists? <S> So the tube is sneaking just over the outside foundation? <S> If so, it will be like a round window and gather some light. <S> If you put it on a sunny wall it will bring in good light, especially when the sun hits it. <S> I put one on the north side of my roof in an attic. <S> Even without direct sunlight it brings in a lot of light. <A> This can work well. <S> Your choices are wall mount or roof mount. <S> The wall mount can be a straight shot, which will gather light when the wall is illuminated. <S> The roof mount involves a 90 degree bend which is supported by the tube skylight vendors. <S> Post pictures for more advice.
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From what I've seen, even with simple installations, the transmitted light is only decent on bright sunny days. In the end, the precise details of your installation would determine if this is practical.
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Do stairs need to be the same height after landing? I have set of stairs that leads from the main floor to the basement. A little over half way down there is a landing (typical L-shape). I'm looking to put in an insulated subfloor in my basement, which could raise the floor height quite a bit. If I did so, I might have to change the bottom set of stairs. I was thinking of cutting new stringers, which would allow my steps to all be of uniform height, but that would make the risers on the bottom set of stairs differ from the upper set. I have 6 steps, and if I were to put in a 3 1/4" sub-floor [1"XPS + 2x4 (1.5") sleepers + 3/4" plywood/OSB], that'd change the riser height by more than 3/8". Is this a problem? <Q> International Residential Code 2009 Chapter 3 <S> - Building Planning Section 311 Means of Egress R311.7 Stairways. <S> R311.7.4.1 Riser height. <S> The maximum riser height shall be 73/4 inches (196 mm). <S> The riser shall be measured vertically between leading edges of the adjacent treads. <S> The greatest riser height within any flight of stairs shall not exceed the smallest by more than 3/8 inch (9.5 mm). <S> Looking at the definition of stairway and flight , you can see that the the 3/8" variance only applies to individual flights of stairs, and not the entire stairway. <S> Chapter 2 - Definitions Section 202 Definitions <S> Stairway. <S> One or more flights of stairs, either exterior or interior, with the necessary landings and platforms connecting them, to form a continuous and uninterrupted passage from one level to another. <S> Flight. <S> A continuous run of rectangular treads or winders or combination thereof from one landing to another. <S> However, you may find that changing the riser height by too much within a stairway could lead to a tripping hazard. <S> As you travel up/down the stairs, your body gets used to the step height. <S> If midway through the stairway the step height changes, you may become temporarily disoriented and potentially trip or misstep. <A> No it is separated by a landing so it doesnt matter. <S> Just as long as the rise is between 4-7 3/4 inches. <A> If you have a high ceiling, you could put in a 7" subfloor, and just lose the last step.
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According to the International Residential Code (IRC), the 3/8" variance only applies to a "flight of stairs" not the entire "stairway".
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Should I leave the fan switch on my thermostat set to fan rather than auto? I purchased a new Amanda Furnace in Oct'2013. I am told in order to maximize a warm, consistent room temperature I should set the thermostat to the Fan position rather than the Auto position. Does this make a difference in maintaining room temperature and is it more costly? <Q> Running the air handler all the time is generally going to cost you some significant electricity. <S> Since either is fine, try it both ways and see what you think, in your house; houses do vary. <A> While it is impossible to give you a quantitative answer without knowing more details about your house and system (e.g. how they set the fan speed in each setting) in my opinion it is better to have the system on Fan setting. <S> What it does is running the blower motor even when heat/AC is not actively heating cooling. <A> It will cost you more in electricity and in filters. <S> Running the fans is basically recirculating the air throughout your house. <S> It will possibly make it colder depending on where the draws are located. <S> If they are downstairs it will more likely push the cold air from downstairs upstairs (given the fact that hot air rises). <S> In the summer it is smarter because you are evenly distributing the air upward.
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While running the fan does consume electricity, you end up with a more uniform air throughout the house.
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When snaking the main sewer line, how do you know when you've reached the street connection? I've had good success clearing out a blockage but am wondering - how do I know when I hit the street line? What does it feel like? Right now I hit a seemingly impassable point (I didn't force it) about 5-6 feet past the obstruction I cleared - would that be the street? The cleanout is around 50 feet from the street and I am snaking out around 70 feet (block was at around 60). I'm guessing that is due to the downslope and the fact the street line may be on the other side of the road. <Q> I've done this a few times and I've never been able to "feel" when you hit the street. <S> Maybe someone who does this often acquires more of a feel. <S> I'm at least 50ft from my street, so <S> perhaps it's just because there's a lot of resistance from the 50ft of snake in the line. <S> If you've gone 70ft when you think it should only be 50ft, my guess is that you're past the street already. <S> Either that or the markings are wrong. <A> I have 150 feet to my main and <S> when I think I get to around that amount <S> I tie a string to my snake line and measure. <S> Not a ton of math. <S> You have to probably guess what the drop is and then measure out the distance. <A> Chances are you won't feel the street, because the snake will just head on down the sewer main. <S> You'll want to measure. <S> The fancy snakes have readouts of the distance for exactly this reason. <S> Also check your line for additional cleanouts. <S> My jurisdiction requires a two way cleanout right at the curb line.
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The easiest way (other than a camera of course) to know you're at the street is to measure the distance from the edge of your foundation to the street, then add the distance inside plus a few feet to account for it not being perfectly straight and level. You have to measure your snake line.
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Why would said gas furnace keep shutting off? Seems that I have a gas furnace that is having some sort of heat/air sensing issue. Basically it shuts off after running for a minute or two. But if I remove the top plate of the furnace itself it runs just fine. It has an automatic ignitor which is doing just fine. Also no errors on the motherboard. But as soon as I put the top plate (area of ignition and flames) back on it will short cycle on me. Too many registers closed? I just cleaned the filters out so that isn't it... More Info:Model - will get the exact when I get home but its a Rheem high efficiency model bought about 5 years ago. Any recent changes - Finished basement 3-4 months ago and added to duct lines - the duct lines have been up 5 months. Can I see pilot light? There is no pilot light since it is automatic ignition. The ignition is working fine. Flames come on strong with cover on or off - so don't think it is a gas issue and I have several other appliances with no gas issues. With cover on it does seem like there is a grasp for air eventually (after a couple minutes). I can't see the flames with the cover on but it seems to go through a normal shut-down and cycles back on in a few minutes. Filter - Filters are brand new. Does the blower run when unit is off? No. As mentioned before I can't find anything odd except for the short cycling and the what it seems like lack of air. The two PVC pipes meet about 4 feet above and go out the back of the house. The one on the left is always a little warm and the one on the right cool. There doesn't seem to be anything obstructing the pipes but I also did the "paper" test while the furnace was on and it didn't suck the paper in. Today was about 20 degrees here and I could notice warm air coming from the pipe outside (not blowing but you could tell). This is with furnace door off. Everything seems to be working fine. Has electronic ignition so no pilot. Other note: We have an electronic air filter that has been turned off for a while because of some construction we are doing. Found out today that it is dead. Shouldn't matter to the furnace but who knows. <Q> This isn't a great answer <S> but I want to provide something in case it helps others. <S> There was no issue with my flame sensor or the ignition device. <S> It went on just fine but was kicking off due to some other reason. <S> After a lot of troubleshooting it was fixed by one of three reasons: powering off the furnace for a couple hours with thermostat disconnected. <S> installing new thermostat. <S> I was due for a new thermostat and not sure what could have been wrong with the old one. <S> It did run out of batteries right before this <S> but it doesn't make sense that when I left the old thermostat it worked fine with the furnace cover off. <S> The only thing I can think of is the old thermostat was sending incorrect signals to the furnace that caused it to need more air during usage (maybe an AC expert might be able to give a plausible reason for this). <S> Reseating cover with slight gap. <S> I have since put this fully on but left it with a slight gap the first couple of weeks. <S> I did nothing else to the unit and the unit was in otherwise pristine condition - only a couple years old. <A> Had a similar baffling problem. <S> Called in a pro who checked out everything <S> and he discovered a clogged condensate tube. <S> Water backs up into the secondary condenser fan and gets into a vacuum pressure tube. <S> With a little water in that tube, the vacuum level is way off normal and the safety features kick in and the burner shuts off. <S> Solution was to "blow out" the clogged tubes, drill one of the tube orifices out slightly (from a diameter of about 3/16 to 3/8), reattach the tubes and everything seems to be working. <S> This also explained why turning the system off for about 10 minutes seemed to work for a short time each time. <S> The water would drain out of that fan and from the pressure tube so everything would start fine. <S> But after a few minutes, condensate that was being created would back up and cause a shut down. <A> It us useful to understand the basic operational logic of these new furnaces to be able to pinpoint possible problems. <S> On high efficiency, direct vent furnaces, when the thermostat calls for heat, the inducer fan turns on. <S> If the vacuum sensors do not sense sufficient draft, the whole thing shuts down. <S> If it is starting correctly, the intake/exhaust is not the problem. <S> The next thing that happens is the igniter turns on for a while until it glows hot, then the gas valve opens enough to light the pilot. <S> If the igniter did not get hot, the pilot will not light and the heat sensor down wind of it will not sense heat, the whole thing will shut down. <S> This is not your problem, either. <S> If the pilot lights and the flame sensor reacts, the main gas valve will open and the furnace will fire up. <S> If the fan came on before the whole thing shut down, this is not your problem, either. <S> If that sensor is broken or the fan doesn't work, the furnace will overheat and the overheat sensor will shut it down. <S> I had the exact problem, and walked through the sequence as above. <S> The answer is above in another answer. <S> The condensate line was plugged. <S> I could see water in the clear vinyl drain lines. <S> (there are several of them that sense the vacuum in the various areas of the furnace.) <S> In my case, I tracked the main drain line and found a trap in the line. <S> I disconnected the hoses and removed the trap which was plugged with 20 yrs. <S> of dust and misc. <S> gook. <S> Gave it a good brushing and flushing, reassembly and all good. <S> Water was draining slowly through the guck so it would start after a rest, but when the water started coming, the drain line would fill up quickly. <S> I had a little trouble figuring this out, because there was water coming out the end of the drain pipe, just not fast enough. <A> You might have spiders and webs in the pipe try sucking a String through the pipe with a shop vac tie a SMALL rag on it with a string you can pull it back if stuck pull through it’s clean <A> I would look at one of two issues, plugged condensate tubing as was mentioned, as well as plugged or sagging exhaust/intake venting. <S> Frost can build up on the exhaust/intake terminations Sagging or incorrectly sloped <S> intake/exhaust can collect water but more thought, these are less likely due to working fine after resting but none the less other possibilities: faulty pressure switch, leaking pressure switch tubing, an eroding combustion blower wheel, worn bushings in the combustion blower motor, leaves in the intake screen at the furnace, corrosion in the heat exchanger, faulty gasket between combustion blower and HX, incorrectly sized venting
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When the air in the plenum (the box the ductwork attaches to) gets hot, the sensor there will turn on the big blower that sends the heat around the house.
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How can I make suction cups stay securely to a tiled shower wall? I am trying to hang a mirror in the shower and it simply will not stay on the wall. It does not weigh more than a couple of pounds. There are two suction cups. Things I've tried: Cleaning the tile surface before attaching Using water on the suction cups Using soapy water on the suction cups <Q> You could definitely just silicone the suction cups to the tile. <S> This is kind of permanent in the sense that you will not be rearranging this, but not so permanent that you are hurting the tile. <S> To take it out a putty knife would do the trick. <S> Might have to use a solvent to get rid of the remnants but not a big job at all. <A> I had this problem recently with a shower caddy from IKEA. <S> It lasted for about four months, then I bumped it, and I couldn't get it to stay. <S> I cleaned the tile and the suction cups without success. <S> The caddy fell in 15 minutes after putting it up. <S> After I washed them, I dried them with a cloth. <S> This left tiny fibers on the suction cup which affected the suction. <S> I then tried to let the cups air dry after cleaning them, and now they suck! <S> Try to clean your cups really well and let them air dry before using. <A> The best approach I have found is to make sure everything is clean and then apply a small layer of petroleum jelly to the suction cup. <S> It helps to create an air tight seal. <A> a layer of leftover soap scum on the tile or suction cups could be preventing the suction cups from sticking. <S> Cleaning with vinegar or an appropriate cleaner might help. <S> Suction cups stick best when damp. <S> However some suction cups are poorly made and will never stick well no matter what you do. <S> You may just need to replace the suction cups with higher quality ones. <S> the kinds that have a hinge stick best in my experience.
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I found that my problem was how I cleaned the suction cups.
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How do I deal with glued-on drywall? I'm in the process of gutting a bedroom. I had to remove a pocket door, move the light switch, add a couple of receptacles, and deal with some rot/mold/insects on the exterior wall. I found that whoever put up the drywall in that room used glue on every stud with only a handful of drywall nails per board (to hold it in place while the glue dried, I suppose). My problem/question is now that I've removed all of the drywall, little bits at a time, I have studs with up to an 1/8 inch of hard construction glue up and down them. Should I leave the glue and put the new drywall over it if it seems even, or it is worth the time to chip off all of the glue and then install drywall right on the studs? It's a LOT of work and I'd like to avoid it unless there's some problem I can't think of. <Q> I would spend the time to scrape it off. <S> This will increase the contact area between the studs and the drywall, which in turn will give better stability. <S> Stability is important because if there is any free play, the screws will move, and may eventually show through the paint. <S> There are various scrapers available in your local home improvement store, in the paints/brushes section. <S> If adhesive proves hard to remove, use mineral spirits or any type of adhesive remover you can find. <S> I also found that a reciprocating saw with a scraping attachment can be efficient. <A> If there is a lot of glue I would definitely spend the money on an oscillating tool and get one of the cutting tools. <A> If they aren't level, and scraping is too daunting, I suggest sistering new studs to the existing ones but have them stick out 1/8 inch. <S> I'd suggest using metal ones as that'd make the job extremely quick. <A> Highly recommend for removing the liquid nail, a very sharp wood chisel will do just fine with a little effort. <A> To see if the glue warrants removal, check your walls with a straight edge, 4 ft. minimum, longer if you have one, make sure it is straight. <S> Lastly check across the studs horizontally at the center. <S> Another alternative to a straight edge is string lines with a spacer block at each end, but takes a little longer to set up. <S> If you have everything cleaned to where the thin layer of paper front the back of the drywall is left, that is all the cleaning needed. <S> If the differences between faces are more than an 1/8", trim the tightest spaces back until the gaps are uniform. <S> If everything is within an 1/8 of an inch the drywall, with screws and new glue behind it, the drywall will readily stay, as you may have noticed when you removed the old drywall. <S> You were accurate in your observation, there are enough screws to hold it until the glue dries. <S> That can be a good thing or a bad thing. <S> The good thing is, drywall has a tendency to lay completely flat if there is nothing to keep it from doing so. <S> The bad thing is, it can also, with a minimum of obstruction, bow away from the wall studs, the biggest culprit being, cutting the sheet too tight between other surfaces or getting it to close to the floor, it should be about an 1" above subfloor, 1/2" above an existing finish floor. <S> This is so any trash or small debris will not get trapped between the framing and drywall. <A> I would make sure all the screws are out and then run a circular <S> saw up the side of the stud. <S> As long as you hold your line and keep the plate pressed against the side should be able to shave off everything except for a mm or two. <A> A sawzall with a metal-cutting blade as opposed to a wood or general-purpose one (many small teeth, not few deep sharp ones) will be easy to run along the surface of the studs and cut off the glue with cutting the wood. <A> I know you already solved this problem, but for future reference, I'd say the best/easiest tool to use would be an angle grinder. <S> There are many many attachments that will very quickly remove glue while keeping the studs relatively intact. <S> Just be sure to use eye, ear, and lung protection! <S> HTH someone! <A> As a rule on modulars, they use adhesive for the drywall, not just to reduce spackling but to assure the integrity of the structure while it is being craned and transported. <S> Now that they are more common in my area, I am starting to run into some different construction practices than I've been used to dealing with the past 30 years. <S> One of these is GLUED DRYWALL. <S> My first instinct was to use a 2" chisel and a hammer. <S> Daunting when you need to replace drywall in 2 average sized rooms. <S> The next idea was to leave the drywall on the studs as 1 1/2" strips. <S> using longer drywall screws. <S> This will work on the ceiling but not the walls where there are door jambs and window jambs that will need to be built out. <S> For those areas, I find the process easy using a scraper blade in my Sawzall. <S> However it will still take time and patience. <S> I tried using my multi-tool but in large doses, I can feel carpel tunnel coming on from the constant vibration, even with gloves. <S> The scraper blade gummed up within minutes even though the glue was brittle. <S> Running a fine Sawzall blade in between the drywall and the stud is messy, awkward and reckless, especially when other parts of the house are being lived in and will gum up the best blade when it starts getting hot. <S> I have pulled out my 4" angle grinder with a 60 grit disc but, same thing, gets gummed up very quickly. <S> What worked for me is scraping with a Sawzall scraper blade and hand scraper. <S> Use a straight edge on the wall to check for anything drastic. <S> Just don't forget to charge for the additional time!
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Because of this it can span over slight differences between surfaces, that's what the glue will do, provide a "filler" for the gaps behind the drywall. It should make quick work of getting the glue off but won't be as aggressive/damaging as a reciprocating saw. If the liquid nail is only 1/8 thick then no problem, just hang right over it. With that check the top and bottom plates for straight, then check each stud face with the straight edge too. Drywalling over what you can go over (ceilings and closet side and rear walls).
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How to remove floor adhesive from concrete? The problem is aggravated by the presence of underlayment. When engineered hadrwood flooring was removed, some underlayment was removed with it, and some stayed glued to the floor. What is the best way to remove all this mess? And should I use any solvent or adhesive remover? <Q> I found the answer by talking to a team of professional contractors who are removing the floor in the apartment next door. <S> There are several steps. <S> After the flooring is removed: <S> There will be many holes in the underlayment from removing the flooring, so the solvent will slowly seep in. <S> The underlayment should now be easy to scrape off. <S> If not, pierce more holes in it and let it soak a bit longer. <S> When the underlayment has been scraped off, there will be still a layer of adhesive on concrete. <S> Pour liberal amount of adhesive remover and let it soak overnight. <S> Warning : I am not certain if now is the time to scrape again, or proceed to the next step. <S> You may want to try over a small area to see what works best. <S> Spread sweeping compound on top of the floor. <S> The floor is now completely cleaned of glue -- just bare concrete, smooth, clean, and nice to look at. <S> Unfortunately, the job is very messy. <S> And the vapors from adhesive remover are toxic. <S> So if you are doing a small patch, you might be better off with scraping it manually using a reciprocating saw with a scraping attachment. <S> Very labor intensive, and does not remove all glue completely, but a lot cleaner. <A> I have had to go through this a few times recently. <S> You can try hot water or some kind of remover <S> but you may be making a liquid mess where you adhesive just spreads out. <S> I have found the fastest way of dealing with it is chiseling for a small area or power scraping - rent one <S> or I personally own one that hooks up to compressor - scraper <S> was like $15 at big box. <S> Yes the work is more laborous but it gets done quicker and cleanup is with a broom. <A> I've used hot water for laminate glue on concrete and rented a floor stripper. <S> For construction adhesive you might want to consult with a local hardware store and see what popular adhesive removers are available in your area. <S> Unfortunately in my experience this is hard work. <A> I used hydrogen peroxide, let it set a few minutes and scrape with scraping tool. <S> Works like magic. <S> Costco sells the peroxide in bottles of two, I used all of it on my laundry room, 9 x 6 1/2. <S> Very easy. <A> Use a pancake air compressor and a air chisel with a wide chisel blade. <S> Use ear protection, knee pads and goggles! <S> No gum mess or chemicals to clean up. <S> Lowes sales the air chisel for $30.00. <S> I already had the wide chisel blade. <S> You can rent, beg, borrow or steal the pan cake compressor ( stealing should be your last option) . <A> It depends on the adhesive. <S> For tile mastic, I've used Blue Bear Mastic and Adhesive Remover on concrete before and it worked amazingly well (if but a tad messy): <S> It also smells funny, but is completely non-toxic.
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Pour adhesive remover on top of the underlayment, let it soak a few hours. Scrape underlayment with a sharp scraping tool. Sweep the floor using a heavy duty broom.
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What kind of plug adapter do I need? See the image below. This is from a lamp. Clearly it needs some kind of adapter to go into an outlet (I assume it came with one many years ago). Any idea what the name is of the kind of adapter I need? And do I need to pay attention to voltage, watts, etc when making the purchase? Here's the label that sits right under the lamp. It reads 50W Smaller 12V Type T Bulb , with various markings underneath it. And finally, here's the lamp itself. <Q> It's very likely to be a proprietary connector. <S> Even if it conforms to a standard size like DIN (as @Trout suggests), that doesn't really tell you anything about the electrical requirements. <S> The part your missing may have a transformer, a dimmer, or allowed ganging of several lights together. <S> Unless you find more markings on the bulb or cable, I would not assume anything about the lamp — could be DC or AC, could be 220V, 110V, or low voltage. <S> (You don't say what country you live in or whether the lamp is likely to be foreign. <S> There are several countries that use plugs with 3 round pins in approximately the configuration of your plug, but yours looks smaller. <S> It's a little hard to tell scale from that photo... <S> any chance of pin-to pin-measurements?) <A> Max, Looks like a Din connector. <S> I'd look for it on Mouser or Grainger. <S> Maybe even McMaster. <S> Check out the lamp itself because I'd bet that the light source is low voltage. <S> This is the kind of connector typically used for low voltage. <S> I suspect that the transformer the lamp came with is misplaced. <S> If this is the case, its easy to discover the needs of the source and replace the transformer. <S> I definitely would check the light source voltage before wiring in a regular ( Edison ) connector and plugging it in. <S> Of course, the pyrotechnics would be lively! <S> Good Luck! <A> Trying to find the power supply and connector pre-made to fit a weird old lamp connector is a needle-in-haystack problem, and not likely to be one with a satisfying result. <S> But there's no need to approach it that way. <S> Simplest approach: <S> Get a 12V X 4.2-5.0 (or greater, but not less) <S> Amp power supply (50W @ <S> 12V = 4.167A) <S> Chop off the plug. <S> Enjoy.
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Use a multimeter to assess where each plug wire goes (probably ground to the case, and each side of the bulb) and connect up to the power supply to suit - or connect to one side of a NEW 3-terminal connector pair and connect the other side to the power supply.
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What is the best way to cut receptacle holes when hanging drywall? I will be installing drywall in a 10x10 room this weekend, walls only. I'm planning to use the longer sheets so there is only a single horizontal seam on each wall and install the top sheet first, flush against the existing ceiling. My question is, what is the best/easiest (not usually the same thing) way to cut holes for the receptacles as I'm hanging the bottom panels of drywall? I'm considering a few options, but what is the best for someone new to this for a good result? One option is to just hang the drywall and use old-work boxes for the receptacles. I don't like to use old work for new work as it doesn't seem as secure. Personal preference. In the past, I've nailed up the boxes and then tried to cut the holes by measuring from the sides several times and then cutting out the holes before putting up the board over the boxes. That never seems to come out in the exact right spot that I don't have a gap around the box. Lastly, I've installed the boxes and then used a saw or rotary tool to cut it out with the drywall loosely fastened into place. This always seems to damage the wiring and still leaves a gap around the box where I cut. So, which of these methods are mostly likely to work with practice or is there a super slick method that I haven't even thought to try? <Q> My experience says to use the rotary tool, but I have always used metal boxes with plaster rings. <S> I have no experience cutting drywall over plastic boxes. <S> I do have three pointers for cutting with a rotary tool: <S> Put as little pressure on the box from the drywall as possible. <S> The more pressure against the drywall, the more likely that you'll get tearout near the edge of the box. <S> Leave any NM cable sheathed and set the depth of the cut to the minimum possible to reach the box plus a half an inch (keeping in mind that the drywall will be at an angle to the box). <S> Always take a few seconds to visualize your cut. <S> Have a good idea of where your corners are so you can anticipate direction changes. <S> Do a sanity check and make right sure you know which way counterclockwise is. <S> If you still don't want to use the rotary tool, there is another option. <S> There are tools that attach to plastic electric boxes. <S> You put them on and then position the drywall where it will be installed. <S> Press the drywall against the tool, and it will place small perforations at the outside corners of the box. <S> Connect the dots and cut. <S> The image below is of one of mine, but I haven't had the chance to use it yet. <A> I prefer to hang the drywall loosely and use a rotary tool. <S> But make sure you use a bit designed for this purpose -- the proper bit will have cutting flutes that don't extend all the way along the length of the bit, leaving a smooth round tip. <S> This tip will follow the contours of the box without cutting into it, even if it's a plastic box. <S> Note that if you apply too much pressure on the box or linger too long in one place the smooth tip will still heat up and melt plastic <S> , so use light pressure when following the outline and keep moving! <A> Gaps around boxes are normal when hanging drywall. <S> The standard tool for a beginner is a keyhole saw and careful measuring. <S> Realize when measuring that drywall will likely have up to a 1/4" gap with whatever it's adjacent to, so pad your measurements appropriately. <S> That padding also needs to account for the box itself. <S> So with the wonders of ascii art, you get: wall box | X <S> " <S> |--| | <-------------- <S> > <S> | <S> | | <S> |--| <S> If the box is B" wide, and the measurement from the wall to the near side of the box is X", then the left side of the cut will be a roughly X" - 3/8" <S> (gap for wall and box are added to each other), and the cut for the right side of the box will be at X" + B" (the gaps cancel each other out). <S> Double check all measurements to be sure you haven't reversed anything (right/left, top/bottom). <S> Next, factor in where you can hide gaps. <S> And with walls, depending on which way you are overlapping, you may be able to have the same allowance. <S> Around doors, windows, and the floor, things will be covered by trim that will easily hide a 1" gap, so there's no need to be perfect around these. <S> The reason small gaps around the boxes themselves are no big deal <S> is that you seal these up with drywall mud while you're doing the seams. <S> If you walk through a home being built after the mudders have gone through, most of the outlet boxes will have a large blob of mud that has settled to the bottom and need to be cut out. <S> Then, any imperfection in the mud is sanded and finally covered by a switch plate. <A> Chalk. <S> Rub chalk over the boxes and tap the drywall against it. <S> The chalk outline will appear on the back of the drywall and you can cut a pretty tight hole. <A> The key is to hang the dry wall perfectly level. <S> Then any measurements you make for cutting holes or trimming edges will be right. <S> If you are hanging it horizontally just snap a level chalk line 4'1/4" above the floor on the wall and hang it to that line. <S> The gap at the floor will be covered with base molding. <S> As far as cutting holes for receptacles buy a drywall knife for five dollars. <S> It is shaped like a knife with teeth and pointy end.just push the knife through the drywall and saw out the hole. <S> Remember to hang it LEVEL, measure twice and cut once. <S> Hope this helps <A> I haven't hung new drywall in a long time; but when I used to, I used to put something glooey on the receptacles, like gasket sealant or prussian blue, on the outlets and press the wallboard up against it; then cut it before hanging the wallboard. <S> These days, when I put new outlets into my house, I just use the clamping type outlet boxes in existing wallboard. <S> I use a stud finder, if I want to secure to a stud, then cut the hole and insert and clamp the box. <S> If I want extra support, I side screw it into the stud.
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I have done the same with ceiling light boxes, for exact positioning, by installing pieces of strapping in the ceiling through the box hole, and screwing them into the ceiling joists; then screwing the clampoing box into them. With the ceiling, the sides will be hidden by the drywall on the wall, so you can allow for gaps as large as 1/4-1/2" without being noticed. Start out going clockwise, and you'll spend a lot of time repairing drywall.
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How to add a new cable box to an existing stud wall I need to wire in a new speaker volume adjuster and box into an existing stud wall. My worry is I am not sure if the speaker wire will be able to get to where I need it to go. This is because I am worried that the stud wall wood will get in the way. If this were not yet plaster boarded, I could pre-drill any needed holes. The wall is freshly painted, so the less cutting the better. How likely is it that the cable will be able to drop vertically down the wall if I insert it at the top of the wall? If not, what do I do to get the cable where I need it? Top View Please ask for more information is needed. What are your suggestions? <Q> If you have access to the top plate of the wall and the wall has no insulation <S> , that's super easy: <S> Get a low-voltage, existing work rough-in box from the hardware store. <S> Cut a hole in the wall for your box. <S> Make sure you are at least a couple inches away from a stud, although dead center between to adjacent studs makes the process easier. <S> Drill a 1/2" hole in the exact middle of the top plate. <S> Drop the cable down through the top plate. <S> Stick your hand in to the wall through the hole you cut through the drywall and grab cable. <S> Done! <S> If the wall is insulated, the procedure differs based on what kind of insulation you have. <S> If the insulation is soft, such as blown-in cellulose or batting, then instead of just dropping the wire in you need to use something stiff to push through the insulation. <S> The proper tool would be a fish tape or similar, but if the distance isn't too long you could use a hanger or similar. <S> If the insulation is rigid foam or sprayed in foam then you will need to carve a channel through the insulation. <S> The easiest way to do that is with a long drill bit designed for drilling through cross-members inside a wall. <S> The only difficult part is knowing where the drill bit ends up because they don't always travel straight. <S> I've had success drilling the initial hole through the top plate almost adjacent to a stud, and aiming the long drill bit towards the stud. <S> (Not at the stud; towards and long the stud.) <S> The drill bit can then follow the stud down the wall. <S> That should make it easier to locate the cavity you've drilled out. <S> And don't forget that repairing drywall is pretty easy in the grand scheme of things. <S> If you need an extra hole(s) then don't worry about it. <S> When you're all done, make sure to fill the hole you drilled in the top plate with fire stop caulk or foam. <A> Usually in stud walls, the studs are all parallel and vertical. <S> This means that you have vertical pockets between the studs (from floor to ceiling) to work with unless your wall is an outside wall <S> -- in this case, the pockets may be filled with insulation. <S> In the non-insulated case, you can drop your cable right down the pocket. <S> If insulated, you may need to resort to a fish tape in order to sneak between the insulation and the wall. <A> Walls can have horizontal 2 <S> " X 4"'s between studs; <S> and, there is no easy way to find out. <S> Some folks can tap on the wall about midway down and based on the thump sound <S> ascertain whether there's a cross piece behind the drywall. <S> Me, I have to drill a hole through the top plate and run a fish tape (search for "steel fish tape" at Lowe's or Home Depot) down inside the wall cavity to find out. <S> Keep in mind that the wall likely has insulation which will impede the fish tape. <S> But, you can still run it down to a hole in the wall. <S> Just make sure you drill the hole between the two studs in the outlet hole's cavity. <S> To do this, what I do is take a coat hanger wire and push it through the ceiling right close to where I want the hole to be drilled. <S> Then I go in the attic and find the coat hanger wire sticking up. <S> Make sure you stick about 15" through the hole to make it easy to find. <S> And drill the hole big enough to make running the fish tape and wire easy. <S> Once you run the fish tape down the wall you still may have trouble finding it in the cavity, especially if there is insulation. <S> I usually have to run my hand inside the outlet hole and feel around until I get it. <S> It helps if the hole was drilled in the middle between the two studs. <S> A mirror and a flashlight can alsobe useful, as well as bending the coat-hanger wire to form a "c" and using it to try to hook the fish tape. <S> Good luck.
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I would suggest using a stud-finder to... find the studs, or even a strong magnet to locate the nails or screws going into the studs; this way, you can choose a spot in the center of a wall pocket.
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How do I tighten/loosen this recessed nut and bolt? My bed has a nut and bolt that are recessed into a piece of wood. The only tool I have that fits it is the tiny toy spanner that came with the bed. The spanner does not grip the nut tightly enough to be able to turn it. But a larger adjustable spanner/pair of grips does not fit in the hole. How could I tighten this nut? Update: The toy spanner did work up to a point, but now it just slips off the nut every time, as if it's too loose. <Q> You can often get a box-type ratchet wrench around those recessed nuts <S> These often come in sets. <S> They are a bit pricey but have many uses. <S> But even a standard open end wrench (like the U shaped end of the wrench above) would give you more grip than the toy wrench provided. <S> Links and images are for illustration only and are not endorsements <A> Don't underestimate what that little wrench will do, or how much torque you need to hold the bed rails together. <S> With the lock washer, it only needs to be compressed, plus maybe another half turn at the most. <S> The force created by the threads drawing through the nut create an incredible amount of pressure on the joining faces. <S> The included wrench has 2 distinct ends, one has the legs of the wrench equal lengths more or less, the other end has a shorter leg on one side. <S> Because of the shape of the wrenches, I will assume there is little or no space to get a box end wrench around it, if there is any room behind it, then a box end wrench can be ground down enough to fit around it. <S> A rail bolt wrench may work too, they are made to fit into even a deeper, hole. <S> They are used for handrail assembly. <S> Back to the offered wrench, the one end with the short leg, in my opinion is the workhorse, the short side is always on the leading side of the turn, as in if you are turning to the right, or clockwise, the short side is on the right side. <S> That side is shorter so it does not bottom out as quickly in the shallow hole the captured nut is in. <S> The wrench with the equal lengths are for the nut when it is in the midway point, where the nut is being turned where the legs of the wrench will still clear the bottom of the hole. <S> As soon as one side of the wrench touches the bottom of the drilled hole, turn it around, and use the end with the short leg to complete the turn, so to speak, then swap ends again, turn that a little, then change ends of the wrench, and repeat. <S> You may have tried these techniques already, but it wasn't stated in your question to what extent you tried to work with the wrench. <S> The picture of the wrench only shows a little distortion on the short leg of the one end that would occur if the wrench is turned the wrong way. <S> Even though there a slight distortion, having the proper orientation of the wrench to the nut, that won't matter. <A> I've used bicycle chain to undo a difficult fastener - would work great in this situation if you could drive the bolt from the other side. <S> Without that could be a lot of resetting. <S> I had a length of bike chain, which was too worn out to use on a bike, but still structurally strong. <S> I cleaned it well and wrapped it around the nut. <S> Then I clamped down on the base of the two free ends with some pliers which were outside the hole. <S> A little tap with a hammer and cold chisel against the chain was enough to move it a few degrees, then reset. <S> Haven't got a photo, but imagine something vaguely like this oil filter chain-whip. <A> An outside-the-box solution would be to remove a small area of wood from the railing. <S> We can see where the wood has already been dinged by the tool. <S> Removing a small sloping area will make access easier in the future, and should allow a normal 4"/100 mm spanner access <S> Also, next you move, consider leaving the bedframe assembled, rather than going through this process every time.
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While you can also use a standard box wrench (a closed loop without the ratchet), in tight places, placing the wrench, advancing it a fraction of a turn, freeing the wrench, resetting it and turning again can get annoying.
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What is this technique of joining wood called? I'm hoping someone can tell me a couple things about how the clipboard pictured below was made. It appears to be three pieces of wood (the same kind of wood), each stained separately, and then joined together. First, does this technique have a specific name? Second, do you know how the pieces are joined? It is very sturdy despite how thin the wood is. <Q> No, seriously...it actually is "stronger than wood". <S> Bandsawn lamination is about as close as you'll get for a "specific name", though it could also be done with a router and templates. <S> Or a CNC router, for that matter, these days. <S> The efficient approach will result in this one and a dark one with a light section, by sawing in stacks, then shuffling. <S> This also has veneer strips along the glueline. <A> Those pieces are almost certainly glued together. <S> Wood glue forms an extremely strong bond if properly applied to side grain. <S> It actually can be stronger than the bonds that hold the wood together. <S> I'm not sure if there's a name for this other than "gluing". <S> Maybe you could call it "laminated", but I think that's usually applied to a piece made from many thin layers, as in plywood. <A> Although what Ecnerwal and Henry said is 100% true in general <S> , I don't think what you have is a side-grain-glued board. <S> If I'm not mistaken, what you're holding up is a clipboard, which is usually about 1/8" thick. <S> At these thicknesses, and given the board's width, the bending moments will easily break the glue bond. <S> I think what you have might be a veneer inlay. <S> If it is at least 1/4" thick, then it could just very well be solid wood joined by glue. <A> This is done by doing a complementary lamination of the shapes using a router (rough cut is usually done at the bandsaw but the final shape is done using a router with a guide and template). <S> Usually, the pieces are butt-jointed using only glue. <S> When you have enough thickness, you can add biscuits, loose tenons, or dowels for a stronger joint, but it's then very tricky to align the pieces due to the curve. <S> Every woodworker will tell you that, when properly applied, glue is stronger than (most) woods :)
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They are joined...with wood glue.
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Getting shocked by a neutral wire I'm trying to figure out how I got a shock from a neutral wire. I didn't think it was possible until I read this article on being "in series with the neutral." Here's what happened: I was disconnecting a ceiling fan remote receiver which has a hot and neutral connection and supplies power to the fan and light kit. The hot wire that supplies the box runs through a single-pole switch, so I shut off the switch and tested with a solenoid voltage meter to make sure it was in the off position. I then removed the wire nuts from the hot and neutral connections. I tested both the hot and neutral bundles with the voltage meter (between wires and the grounded box) and there was no voltage, but there was a small spark when I touched the lead to the neutral bundle. I tested it again and there was no voltage, so I assumed that it was static discharge (I don't know why I did that). So I tested the neutral bundle again, to be safe, and there was no voltage. I started unbraiding the neutral wires and that's when I got a shock. I couldn't believe it. I got a multimeter out and tested again, but there was zero voltage from the neutrals to ground. I turned the switch back on and tested again (hot to ground and hot to neutral), and the black wire was indeed the hot. Then I realized that there were two neutral wires coming into the box, which seemed odd for a ceiling box with only one load (the fan controller). I tested both neutral wires with the switch on and off (neutral to ground): no voltage on either. Is it possible to get a shock even though you can't detect voltage from a neutral wire? I think now that "neutral one" came from a mystery load that ran into the box and hooked up to "neutral two", which runs to the neutral bar. I probably should have tested hot to each neutral separately to confirm this, but I didn't want another shock. Did I complete a circuit when I touched both neutral wires, and that is why I got the shock? <Q> Here's how you can get a shock from a "neutral" wire: you had multiple white wires, only one was the neutral leading back to your circuit breaker/fuse panel. <S> The rest are extending the neutral to other fixtures/outlets. <S> Let's say that one is a light fixture and its switch is on. <S> When you undid the white wire bundle, the white wire going to that light now becomes hot: voltage is coming through the closed switch and the light. <S> You'd get a shock from that white wire, but only when you'd disconnected it from the true neutral. <S> Now, as for the volt meter, did you meter the individual white wires to ground, or only the complete bundle? <A> When you have power going to any part of your house, if there is any type of load on it,and you take the neutrals apart,you are interrupting the load so if you touch the 2 neutrals at any time you can become the neutral which is how and why you feel the shock. <S> It can be harmful depending on the load. <A> This makes absolutely no sense, unless the wiring is completely cockeyed-crazy-cuckoo bananas, or you are working on a completely live circuit without disconnecting the power at the breaker. <S> It is my understanding that you are not working on the main feed box, but on a box that is separated from the feed box by a switch on the hot wire. <S> Thus, the switch turns off the electric current flow to the box you are working on. <S> In no reasonable scenario that I can possibly imagine, the white neutral wire should not continue anywhere else <S> but this box. <S> That is, the white neutral should dead-end here. <S> The white neutral should ONLY continue in parallel with an unswitched hot circuit running in parallel to the original feed box. <S> If the white neutral goes on from this switched box, that means it is going to a box that has a different hot feed to it on a different line to the hot feed line that is supplying this box. <S> That is, the white neutral would be orphaned from the main hot feed line. <S> I can not imagine any kind of proper parallel circuit in which this could possibly be the case, unless the white neutral forms a loop, in which case every white neutral line would still be connected to the neutral through the other end of the loop. <S> If the white neutral does continue on to other devices, that are fed by a hot line independent of its white neutral line, you have a major wiring problem that requires the attention of an electrician,and that is presenting a safety problem far beyond you getting a shock. <A> So he would need to remove the metal cover, dead front, from the panel and see if the circuit he is working on is part of a black/red/white NM cable. <S> If so, shut off both legs of the MWC which will make it safer. <S> However, if the previous "electrician" stole a neutral from one circuit to make a different circuit work, then he could still get shocked. <S> Also if the house has obsolete knob and tube wiring all the neutrals could be shared. <S> If you shut off the main breaker and the solar power breaker if you have one, then you will be safe.
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As I noted above, you would only see voltage on that white wire when it was disconnected from the real neutral wire. But even if he did turn off the circuit breaker, he could still get shocked if the circuit is part of a multi-wire (shared neutral) circuit which are commonly found in most houses. Andrew did not shut off the circuit breaker, he just turned off the switch to the light he was working on.
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Should I replace my toilet's wax ring when I see moisture around the base? I am noticing moisture around the bottom of the toilet, and can tell some moisture is staining the wood floor when viewed from the basement. The bolts holding the toilet are easily tightened. Will that help or should I just replace the wax ring? UPDATE: When I got the toilet ready to remove, drained it, turned off water, removed as much water from drain as possible. I started to undo the bolts holding the toilet in place. I noticed they were VERY loose. Since I could hand tighten the screws, I decided to just tighten the bolts a little and see what happens. So far (3 days) no leaks. I am surprised but will monitor it for awhile I'm sure. Feeling lucky. <Q> Before you start verify that the supply line or tank isn't leaking , dripping down the back of the bowl and flowing around the base. <S> If that looks good I would pull up the toilet and at the least replace the wax ring. <S> I say at the least because most times the bolts get loose for a reason. <S> It may be a cracked flange, broken bolt, rotted floor etc. <S> You have no idea how long it has been leaking before you noticed it. <S> By taking up the toilet you can examine the flange, the floor, the subfloor and the bottom of the toilet to determine the cause of the leak. <S> This will allow repairs to be done in the earliest stage. <S> It will be easier to repair the flange if that is the issue then to wait and have to replace a piece of rotted subfloor. <A> If the toilet moved at all with respect to the floor, then the wax ring seal is broken, and you must replace it. <S> And while you are doing that, make sure you get the proper thickness ring. <S> I had a problem in my former house where I replaced the ring a number of times and still got sewer smell sometimes. <S> Ultimately, Just before we sold the house, I figured out that two of them needed risers bolted to the floor, because the floor was tiled and no wax ring would seal it well. <A> Moisture is a nice way of putting it, but it's actually sewage that's seeping out. <S> If you can hand tighten the bolts <S> then they are definitely on the loose side <S> so there's no harm in trying to tighten them. <S> Careful not to over tighten as you can crack the toilet. <S> Most likely though the seal is broken or not seated properly and you're going to have to replace the wax ring and reseat the toilet. <S> Make sure to remove the old seal and don't try to re-use it. <A> They are normally $5-10 <S> and it takes about 30 minutes. <S> There are tons of videos on youtube that show how. <S> Watch 2 or 3 and you will be a pro :) <A> Wax ring needs replacement without a doubt. <S> Keep it nice and tight also with bolts but never over tighten. <S> snug is how you want the toilet sitting
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You should replace the wax ring.
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Under Cabinet LIghts - Anything Exist That's Not Harsh White? I'd like to replace the old fluorescent white tube lights under my cabinets. I hate that harsh white color and want something warmer. Does such a thing exist that could be hard-wired into the existing circuits and switches? I've seen halogen before but my recollection is that they tend to get quite hot. LED lights seem to be the latest trend, but I'm wondering if they're white as well. <Q> What you are interested in is the color temperature rating, rated in Kelvins. <S> Lower K rating is redder (2700K Warm White), higher is bluer (5000K Daylight). <S> LEDs and fluorescent tubes use phosphor technology to produce the light and by changing the phosphor mix, unlike other lighting, can be made available a wider range of Kelvin ratings. <S> If you're already using T-8 (1" dia), T-5 (5/8" dia) or <S> T-4 (1/2" dia) tubes <S> , you might get by just by changing the tubes out from the Cool White or Daylight color you describe for Warm White. <S> I wouldn't bother if you have T-12 (1.5" dia) tubes, these bulky old, larger tubes require more power in both the ballast and the tube to produce light. <S> Best to swap to LED lighting, pricing has come down and the fixtures are a lot smaller. <S> Kelvin ratings of common lighting: <S> Candle 1800 <S> K Tungsten Incandescent 2700-2800 <S> K Tungsten Quartz Halogen 3200 <S> K Cool White Fluorescent 4300 <S> K Bright Sunlight 5600 <S> K Standard 4 ft T8 <S> Warm White - F32-T8-827 <S> Note: <S> Technically, there are two types of LED systems out there, Native color LEDs that emit a certain color of light due to the elemental makeup of their PN junction and White Light LEDs that emit UltraViolet light and use phosphors embedded in their plastic casings that fluoresce in the visible spectrum to convert it to perceived white light. <S> The first are specified by the nanometer light wavelength emitted (color), the second by their Kelvin rating. <S> White Light Phosphor LEDs most closely approximate the spectrum of lighting we are already acquainted with. <A> You should consider installing strips of 3528 series LEDs. <S> They can be purchased in any color you like, including a variety of warm whites, even yellowish or orangish tints. <S> The light from 3528's is very even because the bulbs are very close together compared to other varieties of LED strips such as the 5050. <S> This site has a good selection of LEDs in whatever style or color you like, or search at Amazon, Ebay, etc for 3528 LED. <S> 3528 LED's at Super Bright LED's <A> The bulbs are not as hot as halogen, and not usually an issue, unless you let your babies crawl around on the countertops.
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Undercabinet light strips that employ small xenon bulbs emit a pleasant light that is little different from standard tungsten incandescent, especially when dimmed.
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I have this light and I don't know how to open it I would like to replace the bulb and I don't know how to do it. I tried pulling the clips on the side out, but they don't budge. Then I tried to unscrew the clips off (hence the third picture), but the screwdriver has to be used at an angle and won't unscrew. Any advice is appreciated. <Q> I have the same one... <S> the definitive answer is as Grant says. <S> One of the clips pulls out enough to remove glass! <S> No screws or screwdrivers needed. <A> For those who came here through Google and have a similar light, I just wanted to say: check the clips to make sure they're actually the same as the one here. <S> My light looks very similar from underneath <S> so I thought the clips would come off the same, but it ended up having screws to loosen the clips instead of a spring. <S> I only found out after tugging on the clips for a good five minutes and wondering why the heck none of the clips would budge. <S> Anyway, I thought I'd put this here in case <S> it helps anyone. <A> One of the clips is spring loaded. <A> Grant's answer was the best for me... <S> but mine wasn't "spring loaded", 2 of the clips were welded onto the fixture while the third clip you're most interested in wasn't welded and so if you pushed it out from the middle there was more flexibility for it to move..... <S> a little left/right action was needed as well. <S> A little harder to put the cover back on.
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Pull it out away from the dome, then slide the dome out from the other two stationary clips. I even got the pliers out before realizing that I just needed a screwdriver (and subsequently feeling like an idiot). Be sure and support the under side of the dome while releasing the spring clip.
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How can I replace a long double vanity with two single vanities? I have one long double vanity in my master bathroom. It is approx 122" with a 53" vanity on the left (butts up to soaker tub) and a 49" vanity on the right (butts up to wall when entering bathroom). In the middle is a 20" open section where you would sit on a stool to do makeup. It looks pretty outdated, so I'm thinking about switching it out for 2 furniture style single vanities as part of our remodel. My question is, how big can they be? How much room should I leave on the left next to the tub, the right next to the wall and in between? And depending on the answer to that question, I am trying to figure out if I need to move the plumbing as well. How many inches can I move the center of the vanity to the right or left of where it is currently before I have to also move the plumbing? <Q> You mentioned that you are retiling <S> and I think your tile extends under so that doesn't matter. <S> your hot and cold for each sink are already probably close enough or were they need to be. <S> Maybe you have to move them over a foot or two... <S> This is an easy DIY drain pipes for sink. <S> May have to move these over a little but maybe not. <S> Unless there is something really odd going on in the wall where you can't move a drain over a foot or two, again no big deal and maybe no issue at all. <S> and if it has drawers that would get in the way. <S> Know that your plumbing can be anywhere really. <S> Need to just make sure your cabinet if functional and plumbing meets code - for instance you can have your hot/cold shutoff in the corner of the cabinet if it fits there. <S> Also if you do have to change these things your wall doesn't have to look perfect after with a cabinet going over. <S> Throw up some drywall and a bad mud job. <S> Maybe you get taller cabinets for the modern look? <S> So what you have to think about is the mirror has to go up and then possibly the vanity light. <S> Still moving this is taking out a couple of very small squares of drywall. <S> How much space from tub? <S> Doesn't matter as long as it doesn't create a safety factor. <S> I personally would make it none or a lot (at least a foot). <S> Very weird having 3-4 inches to clean there. <S> And my take as a cheap flipper... <S> Tile has to go. <S> Cabinets aren't bad and mirror looks nice. <S> Paint the cabinets - maybe they need new doors. <S> So I might order new doors. <S> The counter goes. <S> I cut out the middle section. <S> I throw on granite on each cabinet, install undermount sink, and backsplash. <S> Right under 1K. Can usually pick up granite and undermount sinks on craigslist as leftover or overstocks. <S> Your 49" is an easy find. <S> 53" a little harder <S> but they are there too. <A> There are a couple factors to replacing the cabinets/countertop: Where is the existing plumbing, and is there tile underneath? <S> Depending on those, it will help guide to what the cabinets should be replaced with. <S> Tile <S> If the tile doesn't extend all the way underneath, I'd be sure the new cabinets covered any untiled areas (unless you are replacing tile as well). <S> You could probably remove the toe kick to check, if you can't see from somewhere else. <S> Tile is nearly impossible to "add to". <S> If you're super lucky, maybe you have some of the same tile and grout left over <S> and it would be possible to add and have it not look completely different. <S> Plumbing <S> I'd also ensure they were big enough and positioned so the plumbing wouldn't have to be changed. <S> It's not impossible to change plumbing of course, but moving it even a few inches could add anywhere from a couple hours of work, up to a multi-day job that includes re-tiling the entire floor (if you have to open the sub-floor and break tiles to do it). <S> As long as you have a couple inches between where the plumbing comes in to either side of the cabinet, it's doable. <S> You just need enough room to actually work on the pipes. <S> So to answer your direct questions <S> : Leave as much space as you feel looks okay in the space, which could be as little as none (like it is now). <S> I'd tend towards finding something that is big enough that prevented me from re-tiling the floor, and from moving any plumbing. <S> It would take a lot to convince me personally to change to a vanity that required those types of changes, assuming they weren't happening anyway. <S> Most of the time as far as the look goes, it would be possible to find a similar looking vanity that is slightly wider/has a closed-in base/etc, so the design is essentially the same but extra work and expense is avoided. <A> Your best bet is to consult with the plumber who is going to to do the plumbing. <S> You can move the vanities but you will also have to relocate the plumbing. <S> This requires cutting open the walls (sounds scarier than it actually is). <S> I'd leave 6" of space between the tub and the left vanity. <S> Water damage can wreak havoc. <S> If you enjoy the added counter space, keep it! <S> If not, you can shorten them down or even go with 1 long 72" double vanity.
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This really depends on what kind of cabinet you get More often, it's impossible to find an exact match, and so the only way to make it look right is to completely replace all tiles.
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Should a water distribution manifold consist of a circular loop? I'm replacing the copper in my house with PEX tubing and I'd like to set up my new utility room with hot water and cold water manifolds. Each connection on the manifold would then lead to either hot or cold on a plumbing fixture and I'd have shutoff valves to each at the manifold. I recalled hearing somewhere that each manifold should consist of a circular loop; that is, the manifold should not terminate directly, but should contain a connection to circulate water back to the inflow of the manifold. I'm not sure why this should happen, or if it should happen. Don't know whether it matters, but I'm on well water. <Q> The circular loop would only be for the hot water side. <S> It is called a recirculating line and it is in place so when you turn the hot water on the line will not have to purge the cold water first, the hot water will be there at the ready in seconds. <S> It is more expensive in energy costs since the hot water is always moving through the pipes and loosing a little heat which would need to be maintained. <A> It is simply a manifold arranged as a ring, typically only a few feet in diameter and located near the water supply, and it provides a couple of advantages, depending on exactly how it's built. <S> The main advantage is that it effectively doubles the pipe area of the manifold - water can flow both directions from the input to any load, and this is particularly helpful when multiple loads are drawing at the same time; this is as compared to a linear manifold where the last item on the manifold will see less pressure when other items "before" it in the manifold are drawing. <S> There is also a large cost advantage over pre-built manifolds, but that is not specific to ring manifolds. <S> Of course, there is still a worst location (the side of the ring opposite the input) <S> but it's roughly twice as good as a linear arrangement. <S> If you incorporate valves in the manifold (as well as the valves on the branches) you can isolate a part of the manifold without shutting down water to the entire building. <S> Whether that is worth doing is somewhat debatable. <S> Arguably, a hot water recirculation loop is not the same as a ring manifold, becasue the nature of a manifold <S> is to try to minimize pressure differences between branches, by having a large, short, tube with all the smaller branch tubes connected to it, all seeing similar source pressure. <S> A recirculating loop running throughout the house would have significant pressure drops between draw points. <S> A system following the manifold approach with recirculating loops would have a loop return from each hot water branch, unless it was using the ( IMHO terrible ) practice of returning along the cold tube. <A> A circular manifold provides a "parallel circuit" of water distribution and evens out the water pressure better than a straight line manifold with a "dead-end". <S> See James Glass'svideo at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy9w7bNJWfY
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A circular manifold is not a hot water recirculating loop, though a hot water recirculating loop could conceivably be set up as a sort of large ring manifold.
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How can I prevent racking on a large free standing wardrobe? I have two free standing wardrobes, 2.8m by 2m (depth 70cm). Actually inside the wardrobe there is one internal 'wall', halfway 1m, so it divides each wardrobe into 2, but is no stronger than the side 'walls'. I would like to remove the back board (for ventilation purposes and to keep an eye on possible mould) but I am worried about racking (when a rectangle box structure slides horizontally forming a diamond before collapsing...). What are my best options? I thought about using internal L brackets, similar to shelving brackets, I have some industrial strength ones to hand for 60cm shelves (with a diagonal support within the L). Could that work? Would I need to support all four angles? IF I use internal L brackets should they be longer? Or if these brackets are overkill, let me know because i don-t want to waste these shelving brackets! Or should I go for four strips of backing plywood to place within the original backing board grooves? (a piece along each vertical, and each horizontal) So a a partial back board by at least with this some of the wall behind is visible. Or.. the fact there are two wardrobes, shall I join them? Or....? <Q> Consider drilling a series of 4" holes instead. <S> You'll retain most of the shear strength, and get some ventilation. <S> Diagonal braces are more effective but more work. <A> The easiest solution would be to fix a diagonal tension/compression member across the back, from the top left corner to the bottom right corner. <S> If you use a rigid support like a metal rod, you'll just need one. <S> If you use something like steel cable or webbing, you'll need two forming an X. Note that whatever you use cannot have much stretch to it, or the wardrobe will be wobbly even if it isn't in danger of falling down. <S> Use crimping sleeves to hold everything in place, and cable thimbles for the bends to reduce stress on the cable. <A> My vote would have been for equilateral triangular sections of hardwood (with sides of 50-60 cm each) to fit in the grooves left when you remove the back panels. <S> Would be similar to your idea of shelving brackets, but less "industrial" in appearance than either the brackets or the steel cable solutions.
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An eye bolt at each end with a turnbuckle in the middle would be a good solution for getting steel cables taut. T brackets at each rear junction are a possibility, but probably not as strong as the backboard with 4" holes.
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How do I fix a squeaky carpeted floor given that scored screws don't help? My flooring--second story, carpeted--squeaks. I tried the scored screws solution answered in this question . I covered the entire room and adjacent hallway with scored screws on all the joists, every 6 inches, per the instructions. After the fix, the squeak still exists, but walking around the room/hallway, the squeak now seems to be more localized--specifically, the sound emanates from the edge where the wall meets the floor. I can walk in the middle or the side of the room and the sound still comes from the edge. How do I fix (or verify) the cause the squeak? I'm happy to provide more info; but I'm not even sure how to proceed to gather more information. <Q> Squeaking usually comes from two places: Joists. <S> Loose, overloaded, damaged, braced improperly, not even. <S> Fix is usually lateral support using crosses. <S> Plywood. <S> Poor quality, warped/damaged, not thick enough, not glued down, not screwed properly or enough, pattern not well thought out (edges should be on joists or supports). <S> Usually have to pull them up to figure out the issue. <S> In your case you don't want to open up first story ceiling <S> so you need to pull up a couple pieces in high-squeak areas. <S> Figure out what the issue is. <S> If the joists aren't even (note that I didn't say level) <S> the boards will eventually squeak. <S> If there is no cross-bracing then the joists certainly have movement which itself can cause a squeak but also loosen screws or make screw holes bigger over time. <S> These are just common examples. <S> You can keep adding fancy screws every inch <S> but you don't know the root cause yet. <A> The suggestions from @sborsher, @Bryce, and @DMoore were fantastic, and gave me a lot to investigate (and budget) for. <S> However, for my specific case, I had talked to over a dozen contractors. <S> One - Sasha Grote - suggested a fantastically simple & effective solution that fit my budget, was minimally invasive, and even if it had failed, it would have provided a solid actionable data. <S> Solution <S> Remove the baseboard along the squeaky wall Using an impact drill, insert 4 inch screws every 3 inches or so. <S> If it works, DONE <S> If it doesn't work, you know it's not the wall-anchoring-to-the-floorboard. <S> Success: <A> It's time to remove the carpet and use screws with real heads. <S> It's possible your problem comes from the plywood edge directly against a stud. <S> If that does not solve it, it may be time to take up sections of floorboard and add cross bracing: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/38041/5960 <A> Do you have manufactured joists? <S> Under the Master Bedroom, which was 16X16. <S> we had to take down a center strip of the Living Room ceiling below and install stiffeners between the joists. <S> That helped a lot. <S> We never had a squeak, but we did, initially, have a lot of motion in the floor, which was probably putting a lot of strain at the wall interface. <S> Also, my office was above the garage, and, although they did finish the garage, they failed to put strapping on the manufactured joists first. <S> That floor had a creaking crunchiness to it as the sheet rock rubbed against the joist as the flexed. <S> I fixed that problem by strapping the garage ceiling below the sheet rock, and then unscrewing the sheet rock from the joists. <S> I had that house custom built in 1996, and I learned a lot. <S> A full page fax, minimum, went to the builder every Monday morning, after we inspected the work over the weekend; although we did also close the house up every night because there were many storms during that period. <S> This was at the beginning of the big ramp up in house construction that ultimately led to the housing crash.
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Your better screws should solve this, else you could try construction adhesive in the crack (remove baseboards first). My previous home was built with them, and some of the floors had a lot of give.
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Why little holes/dots when I apply joint compound? I can't find answer anywhere, can somebody tell me why and how to avoid these little dots/holes when I spackle. I also including the pic of the compound I'm using. <Q> There have got to be many ways to minimize the bubbles. <S> These kind of problems you deal with when finishing drywall require a certain amount of skill that, for me, comes only with experience. <S> That said, I have a few ideas: <S> Add a little bit of water. <S> The further along in the finishing process, the thinner the compound should be. <S> Mix <S> well, even if you add no water. <S> "Work" your mud with a knife in your pan (or on your hawk) for a few seconds. <S> It's hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like your application could use fine tuning. <S> a. Apply the mud to the wall as you have done. <S> b. Remove mud from the knife and, putting pressure on the left side of the knife, go back over application. <S> c. <S> Do the same for the right side. <S> d. <S> With light pressure in the center, go over again. <A> Actually, @Edwin gave you a good answer. <S> I'll add a bit to it. <S> It is not unusual to see lots of small bubbles on the first coat. <S> The second coat is going to be thinner and applied with a bit more pressure and wider knife or trowel than the first. <S> Here's a little trick for your third or final coats of mud. <S> Mix a small amount of water and Ivory dish soap into your mud and mix well. <S> It will glide on like soft butter and be as smooth as a baby's bottom!! <S> Also, practice makes perfect, mudding takes a lot of practice, so hang in there. <A> You are getting these because the compound going on is too thick. <S> My drywall guys start with a small bucket of powder and water and mix to the consistency of pancake syrup and then add the premixed stuff in. <S> Basically to the point where it barely doesn't drive you nuts. <S> It will make a mess no doubt because you will have drop everywhere. <S> But this allows for smaller/wider coats that will require almost no sanding and we hardly ever have bubbling issues. <S> The fact is the premixed compound out of the jar will start drying so fast that the air will escape during the initial drying process. <S> They sell it this way because it is more usable and you can always add moisture but much harder to take it out. <A> I have always had air bubble problems when patching over a painted surface. <S> They occur in each succeeding coat, but a little less. <S> I have found that sanding the first coat and then wiping thoroughly with a wet sponge seems to fill in the bubbles so they don't appear in succeeding coats near as bad.
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The bubbles are usually from not mixing the mud well enough or not applying it with enough pressure. This will help to better feather out our edges.
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Does a thermocouple need to be screwed in to work? I'm recently having trouble with a water heater. The pilot light with ignite just fine, but will go out after releasing the reset button, even after holding it for over a minute. That makes me think the thermocouple is bad. In addition to that, the hole where the brass nut that holds the thermocouple in place is stripped out. I cannot get the nut into the hole. I tried holding the thermocouple in place with my hands and also with strands of duct tape and the pilot would still not stay lit. But would the pilot stay lit if the bolt were not in place, or does the bolt serve a purpose other than securing the thermocouple that allows it to function? <Q> To be clear for future searchers: the nut is critical, it provides half of the electrical connection. <S> While some thermocouples have two wires, the original poster is talking about a model with one wire. <S> The case of the thermocouple must firmly contact the frame of the furnace, to complete the circuit. <S> Consider buffing the furnace frame with steel wool to remove rust and scale. <A> Do you have a multi-meter? <S> If so, test the voltage output from the thermocouple when heated by the pilot. <S> Set your multi-meter to DC and the lowest voltage it can measure - the output should be at least few hundred millivolts. <S> You can perform this with it held in the correct place versus unsecured. <S> If the threads are stripped, you're probably best off replacing it anyways. <S> Also check to see if your heater is equipped with diagnostic LED's and if so consult the error sequences in the user manual. <A> Apparently the nut only serves to hold the end of the thermocouple in the socket firmly. <S> It really needs to be held in quite firmly. <S> I managed to keep the pilot lit while holding the thermocouple with my hand, applying a good deal of pressure, but when I let go of it, the pilot would go out. <S> I managed to overcome the problem by screwing in the nut at an angle and only half way up (essentially drilling new threads). <S> The pilot remained lit for about five minutes until I switched the heater to on and turned up the thermostat. <S> Then, as expected, the heater ignited and began to heat the tank. <S> The tank heated as expected and the pilot light remained lit.
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Before screwing it in, I placed a small piece of electrical wire casing around it to give pressure from the nut to the end of the thermocouple. You can consult your furnace documentation for the minimum voltage needed. A thermocouple requires two wires to function: electricity is generated at the junction of two different metals and two wires are needed for current to flow. It's a cheap part and easily replaceable.
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Will removing the insulation from an unfinished basement cause it to be a lot colder? We live in upstate NY and the house has an unfinished basement. It's waterproofed with cinder block walls and a concrete floor. There is no framing, no drywall. However someone put up this hanging batting insulation with a white vapor barrier over it and it is just nailed to the cinder blocks. It's awful looking so we really want to take it down. We can't afford to frame it and insulate it properly since it's just for storage and laundry. So my question is: -If I take off this current insulation is the basement going to be a lot colder? Is it a bad idea to get rid of it even if it hideous? If so is there a cheap idea for insulating without framing? <Q> Good question. <S> Under the circumstances, I feel you would be better off leaving the existing insulation alone, or simply cover it with a more attractive plastic sheet or some inexpensive fabric. <S> perhaps a curtain type wall over the insulation? <S> There are several ways to insulate the walls without framing, but adhering rigid foam insulation is expensive, up to $80 per 4X8 sheet, and spray on foam is more expensive than that and should be professionally applied. <A> If I take off this current insulation is the basement going to be a lot colder? <S> Probably. <S> It's difficult to estimate without knowing the indoor/outdoor temperatures of your home, construction of your home, R-value of insulation, etc. <S> Is it a bad idea to get rid of it even if it hideous? <S> If so is there a cheap idea for insulating without framing? <S> I wouldn't remove it because it's serving a purpose. <S> If it's an unfinished basement, what does it matter if it's ugly? <S> I haven't seen a great looking insulation. <S> If it were me, I wouldn't worry about it, or finish your basement. <A> The only thing that really matters is that the zone in your basement that is above grade is insulated well. <S> Your region is a mixed climate - you are on the colder side of the mixed climate though. <S> I would suggest two things if you are not finishing your basement. <S> Keep insulation to the point where you hit outdoor grade. <S> This might be a foot to three foot in some basements. <S> Add 2x4s along the perimeter at grade level to support insulation - or add rigid to those wall parts. <S> The 2x4s plus concrete nails is cheaper and would look good. <S> I don't agree with the batte insulation against the wall with a vapor barrier over it for your climate. <S> But the vapor barrier is probably better than having insulation flying around... <S> So poke lots of small holes in vapor barrier. <S> You will have condensation and it needs to be exposed to air. <S> Now with less insulation you will have a colder basement in winter - but not a lot colder... <S> but also a colder summer which is good. <S> Basically the offset neutralizes the energy costs for certain climate zones. <S> And add on the mold issues complete batte installs it is a no brainer to not do it.
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If you remove it without a plan to replace the insulation, the basement will be somewhat cooler.
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How to get a new tumbler pattern to re-key existing locks? I suspect I don't know what terminology is correct which is why I can't find any information on this via google. Say I have standard door locks (Schlage or Kwikset) that are fairly new and I have deadbolts and doorknobs that are all set to the same pattern (so one key will open two doors). Now, say I need to get a new master key or key pattern or tumbler pattern or whatever it's called because my key was stolen or a copy was made and now I don't trust that my locks are secure. My problem might be that I don't have another factory-cut master key (or pattern) that I can use to have the locks re-keyed to and to cut blank keys to. How would I go about getting a new key that I could get the locks all re-keyed to? Do I have to buy a new lock-set to install or use to re-key the existing locks? If anyone thinks they could improve the vocabulary in this post, that'd be awesome, because I don't know what words I'm looking for, even after looking through lockwiki . Summary The key I have is compromised The locks I have, I'd like to keep I don't have a new key to re-key the locks to How do I get a new key that doesn't match any of the existing locks? And can I then re-key the locks to that key? <Q> You can have a locksmith rekey the locks, or you could even do it yourself with a rekey kit. <S> To do this the cylinder will be removed, and the pins within it either replaced with different ones, or in theory they could just be swapped around. <S> After this, the old key will no longer open the lock. <S> You will need a new key. <S> This must either come as part of the rekey kit, or one could be cut based on the new pin arrangement in the cylinder. <S> Schlage has a rekeying manual online that you can read and decide if it is a task you want to tackle or to leave to a locksmith. <S> I would expect a locksmith to do it fairly inexpensively if you're able to bring the lock sets into the shop. <A> Go to your local Home Depot store where they will have spare keys left over from re-keying. <S> At least when my customers ask me about that same problem I give them the left over. <S> They're all new and have only been used once to re-key. <S> You can then re-key with a new key. <S> Good luck! <A> For low-end brands like that, it's far cheaper to just buy new lock-sets. <S> (if you were in higher-end stuff that's designed <S> to be re-keyed, a locksmith can invent a new key pattern for you at no extra charge over the normal cost of re-keying.) <S> So you're asking " <S> How do I get a bunch of new lock-sets of my preferred brand and style which are keyed alike?" <S> Go into any hardware store and look at the lock-sets on sale. <S> Each retail package has a key number on the back. <S> The cardboard box that came in will have 4-8 packages with the same key number. <S> Scary, huh? <S> So. <S> Once he's locked out, your nemesis will visit all your usual stores and buy every lock of that same model, hoping to get another with that same key number. <S> ($0 cost to him, since he returns them when he's done.) <S> He's all but certain to succeed. <S> So, buy your locks secretly, from a faraway store nobody would expect you to shop at. <A> Previous answers seem to miss the easiest approach -- you do not need to play with the cylinder! <S> There are two aproaches: <S> Use the same lock cylinder, but change the pins [hard, described in previous answers]. <S> Change the lock cylinder, which, implicitly, changes the pins. <S> Many exterior/deadbolt grade locks have fairly standard cylinders embedded in circular plugs that are mostly interchangeable, and very cheap ($10 each or less). <S> It is possible to order these to be keyed alike; installation is very quick (typically just requires a screwdriver), and there's no danger of the lock exploding and sending pins and springs all over the place. <S> Example: <S> In general, this is how commercial landlords operate. <S> The major reason to re-pin an existing cylinder is to copy the pin arrangement from another lock, when replacing all of the keys would be problematic.
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Do it yourself rekey kits are available for some lock brands online.
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Can a 20 amp circuit have a 14 gauge pigtail directly to one receptacle? I'm rewiring a a small part of a wall and I'm confused about a combination of the NEC and the products that I'm able to find. I'm working on a 20 amp circuit (with 12g wire of course). I'm connecting 4 receptacles each in their own box, 15 amp receptacles for normalcy. But the terminals don't seem to accept 12g wire, even on the screws. My first reaction was to make pigtails 14g pigtails, so that the 14g tap goes directly to the receptacle and is not used to feed the rest of the circuit. 12g in the box, 12g out of the box, and 14g inside the box only. Is that type of splice allowed, or should I look harder for a 15 amp outlet that can more easily accept 12g wire? <Q> National Electrical Code 2008 <S> Article 210 Branch Circuits II. <S> Branch-Circuit Ratings 210.19 Conductors — Minimum Ampacity and Size. <S> (A) <S> Branch Circuits <S> Not More Than 600 Volts. <S> (2) Multioutlet Branch Circuits. <S> Conductors of branch circuits supplying more than one receptacle for cord-and-plug connected portable loads shall have an ampacity of not less than the rating of the branch circuit. <S> Which means in your case, you'll have to use 12 AWG conductors for attaching the receptacle. <S> note: A duplex receptacle actually counts as two receptacles according to NEC <S> However, there are situation <S> were <S> 14 AWG conductors can be used on a 20 ampere circuit. <S> (4) Other Loads. <S> Branch-circuit conductors that supply loads other than those specified in 210.2 and other than cooking appliances as covered in 210.19(A)(3) shall have an ampacity sufficient for the loads served and shall not be smaller than 14 AWG. <S> Exception <S> No. 1: <S> In addition, they shall have an ampacity of not less than 15 for circuits rated less than 40 amperes and not less than 20 for circuits rated at 40 or 50 amperes and only where these tap conductors supply any of the following loads: (a) Individual lampholders or luminaires with taps extending not longer than 450 mm (18 in.) <S> beyond any portion of the lampholder or luminaire. <S> (b) <S> A luminaire having tap conductors as provided in 410.117. <S> (c) <S> Individual outlets, other than receptacle outlets, with taps <S> not over 450 mm (18 in.) <S> long. <S> (d) Infrared lamp industrial heating appliances. <S> (e) Nonheating leads of deicing and snow-melting cables and mats. <S> Check the Device <S> Click for larger view Push in #14 CU solid wire for 15A branch circuit only. <S> Installation Screw Terminal <S> > <S> #14 - #12 AWG CU Wire <S> Only. <S> Notice on the back of this 125V 15A duplex receptacle, it states that you can use 14 AWG or 12 AWG copper wire when terminating at the screw terminals, but that 14 AWG copper must be used when terminating at the push in terminals. <S> It also says that if you're using the push in terminal, and 14 AWG copper, it can only be used on a 15 ampere circuit. <A> I would say 14 gauge wire anywhere on a 20 amp circuit is not OK. <S> The purpose of the breaker is to cut off power before the wiring overheats. <S> If you plug in several devices on an outlet that total 20 amps, you will exceed the safe working capacity of the 14 gauge wire without tripping the breaker. <S> (You may be under 15 amp for each individual outlet but between the two outlets on a duplex receptacle you can exceed the 15 amp rating of 14 gauge wire). <S> 12 gauge wire is a little tougher to work with <S> but I've never had much of a problem getting it attached to outlets. <S> (Working with the extra stiffness & bulk in the junction box is the issue I've usually noticed.) <S> However, maybe you can pick up some 20 amp receptacles, even if you don't anticipate using any 20A appliances? <S> Obviously a 20A receptacle needs to support 12GA wiring... <A> NEC 240.4(D)(3) states that 14 AWG must be protected at 15A. <S> If you are putting 15 amp receptacles on a 20 amp circuit with 12 gauge wire, then you MUST use the screw terminals, not the back stab terminals. <S> I wouldn't use those even with 14 gauge wire as I've seen the wires bend and break right at the point where the shielding was stripped and the plug goes dead or the breaker trips. <S> Just use the side terminals. <S> Make sure that the wires are wrapped clockwise around the screw so that tightening the screws pulls the wire tighter and not so it's pushing the wire out. <A> There are VERY few times when you can have #14 on a 20A breaker, and this is NOT one of them. <S> Also, as stated, NEVER use the quick-wire holes in the back of devices. <S> They are extremely failure prone and are simply NOT worth the 2 seconds in time they save.
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You can not use 14 AWG anywhere on a circuit that has a 20A breaker. If you're installing this on a 20 ampere circuit, with 12 AWG wire, you'll have to use the screw terminals. Tap conductors shall have an ampacity sufficient for the load served.
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What is the best way to remove hair from carpets? We do have a vacuum cleaner, but unfortunately that does not do a good job. I do not mind purchasing a new one, but I am going to be here only for the next 3 - 6 months and I would rather not buy one unless absolutely necessary. I found the following while searching if someone had already answered http://homeguides.sfgate.com/removing-hair-carpet-48919.html It does a partially better job than the vacuum, but does not remove most of them. Any suggestions? <Q> For problem areas, I tape together a square of masking tape about a foot (0.3 meters) on a side, and press that onto the carpet after a stiff brushing. <S> The sticky will pull the hair right out. <S> It'd be a lot of work for large areas though. <A> I do not mind purchasing a new one <S> Ok, if you don't mind purchasing a new one then I can offer you my experience. <S> We had a dog for about a year that had long white hair. <S> And, it shed hair everywhere. <S> It wasn't so bad getting it up on the hardwood floors and tile, but, it loved to lay on the rugs. <S> Well, we had a couple of inexpensive Hoover or Dirt Devil or whatever vacuums that we used for awhile (another story), but they wouldn't pick up all of the hair. <S> But, our old Kenmore cannister vacuum with the beater brush took it right up. <S> So, I think you need a vacuum with a beater brush. <S> It vibrates the carpet, loosening the hair, and sucks it right up. <S> They are probably still a lot more expensive than the inexpensive ones, but, we've had the Kenmore for about 30 years. <S> I've done some minor repairs to it over the years, but nothing major. <S> And Sears has always had the parts I needed. <S> Think of it as a long-term investment. <A> I have this carpet rake <S> and it helps loosen and pick up hair as well as reviving the texture of the carpet. <S> Helps bring up other dust and debris that are too far down for the vacuum cleaner to get on <S> it's own. <S> Takes a little manual effort but helps your carpets and it keeps the beater brush of the vac from getting all clogged up with hair. <S> Even a cheaper upright I had years ago did a decent enough job but the hair cept getting caught in the beater brush <S> and I'd wind up burning through belts fast.
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I have a good canister vac with a beater brush but the carpet rake helps it do a better job.
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Can an electrical subpanel go underneath plumbing? I was about to wire up my new basement subpanel when I realized I had put it directly under a toilet. I don't think this is a code violation. I can relocate it with some difficulty. I'm also considering a hack like cutting a slightly larger piece of PVC in half and putting it under the plumbing pipe to carry any water to the other side of the joist. Is the present installation unsafe? If so, what should I do? <Q> The National Electric Code strictly prohibits the installation of water piping above the service equipment you described. <S> Art. <S> 110.26(F)(1)(a) states: <S> National Electrical Code 2008 <S> Article 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations II. <S> 600 Volts, Nominal, or Less <S> 110.26 Spaces About Electrical Equipment. <S> (F) Dedicated Equipment Space. <S> (1) <S> Indoor. <S> (a) Dedicated Electrical Space. <S> The space equal to the width and depth of the equipment and extending from the floor to a height of 1.8 m (6 ft) above the equipment or to the structural ceiling, whichever is lower, shall be dedicated to the electrical installation. <S> No piping, ducts, leak protection apparatus, or other equipment foreign to the electrical installation shall be located in this zone. <S> (b) Foreign Systems. <S> The area above the dedicated space required by 110.26(F)(1)(a) shall be permitted to contain foreign systems, provided protection is installed to avoid damage to the electrical equipment from condensation, leaks, or breaks in such foreign systems. <S> You can place the piping from the toilet above the electrical panel <S> provided it's located above the 6 foot high dedicated space, and provided it "is installed to avoid damage to the electrical equipment from condensation, leaks, or breaks in such foreign systems." <A> Putting the panel under a toilet is a disaster waiting to happen. <S> I have replaced a hundred wax rings and closet flanges over the years. <S> From looking at your pic, it looks like you could move the panel to the right one or two bays and avoid the potential problem. <S> DSlake gave you the right answer. <S> Just move it and sleep soundly at night. <A> In viewing this install I see the panel set INTO the stud space with a 2x4 plate (header like) above it. <S> Therefore that should represent a structural ceiling as far as the panel is concerned. <S> Code does not specify any area in front of the panel - only the width and depth (which are inside the stud-space). <S> The closet drain enters the overhead in front of the panel - not direcly above it. <S> In the strict interpretation the panel appears to be legal (though a a hard-ass inspector might disagree). <S> This appears easy at this point with only 1 non-connected cable hanging in it in the photo. <S> Can't see the wall on either side?
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There is no plumbing directly over the panel as would be if the panel was surface mounted. My answer is this: Code is clear - nothing above the service panel except a structural ceiling. If it can moved that would be best if only to appease a particular inspector. As seen right now, it does not meet code and poses a serious safety hazard or shock or fire.
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Can a door bell be powered from a receptacle? What's an easy way of installing a traditional door bell? I know there are the wireless, battery operated ones, but I'm tired of changing out batteries. Is there a version of doorbell that could just be plugged into a wall outlet, or better yet, NOT use up and outlet but somehow "tap into" a nearby outlet for power? <Q> There are a small number of battery free doorbells such as these <S> They work on a signal generated by pressure (piezoelectric?). <S> These are similar to the wireless battery-free switches now showing up for AC fixtures. <S> Images and links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of any products or sources <A> This is usually done at a j-box in the basement or some exposed area. <S> The transformer cannot be hidden without access in a wall etc. <S> If you have existing finished walls, there is never an "easy" way to fish these wires through enclosed spaces. <S> I like some of the suggestions in the comment section. <S> A plug in chime and a battery operated button is an excellent option. <S> +1 <S> johnny. <A> To answer the question: yes, small plug-in transformers exist if you're willing to tie up an outlet that way; most traditional doorbell systems run on something between 12 and 24 volts. <S> (First one my web search hit was 16V.) <S> It's more common to hardwire the transformer into a box in the basement. <S> As noted, though, the more challenging part may bd running the wires between transformer, button, and bell. <S> Easy to do in "new work"; harder to retrofit without a lot of patching.
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Installing a conventional doorbell involves fishing low voltage or T-wire from the button and chime to a transformer that is attached to a 120vac power source.
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How can I repair this damage to the walls in my garage? The walls in my garage look terrible, they are ripped at the bottom all around the entire garage. I have no idea what caused this. What's the best way to fix something like this? I've also got foam insulation oozing out all over the place beneath the tears. <Q> Steven and I were typing at the same time, I've explained and elaborated a bit more FWIW. <S> Neither of us really needs the points :) <S> It appears the wallboard was cut a bit too long during installation and it was forced into place, causing some pieces to spall off. <S> In removing the spalled pieces, the paper was further torn. <S> Ideally, you want a small gap here so any water on the concrete does not wick up into the wallboard. <S> It's difficult to completely remove polyurethane foam from concrete. <S> Scrape off as much as you can, then hit it with a wire brush mounted on a drill or angle grinder. <S> Other than being unsightly <S> , it's not really hurting anything. <S> Remediation would be pretty low on my to do list. <A> The expanding foam that has seeped out can be cut with a utility knife. <S> The drywall can be fixed with a skim coat (or a couple coats) of drywall compound. <S> If you really want to go all out then you would also sand smooth, prime and paint. <A> Provided that they would cover the damage, I would buy 1x4 or 1x6 pine and nail it in place as baseboard to cover the unsightly appearance. <S> You wouldn't have to spend a lot of time doing it, especially if you have a pneumatic nailer: just butt the pieces end to end. <S> If you don't have a nailer, I suggest you pre-drill guide holes through the baseboard to make nailing easier. <S> For the corners you could just butt the boards rather than cutting 45° angles. <S> I'd paint them before installing: much easier that painting after nailing in place. <A> I would not take any of the foam out. <S> I am guessing there is a basement on the other side of that wall and this is filling a framing crack. <S> Not only providing insulation but keeping bugs and things out of your house. <S> I would personally not worry about it. <S> If you need to have a luxury garage I would cut drywall at least an inch off the floor and then use some pressure treated wood as trim - probably can get PT fencing to handle this the cheapest.
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You can level off the spalled areas with joint compound, then paint for a clean neat appearance. As long as this area does not get wet, it's nothing to worry about.
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What is the minimum distance wiring must be behind a tile backsplash? I have a log home and would like to correct the kitchen counter-top receptacles. I have discovered the following problems that necessitate rewiring the entire kitchen (new cabinets/countertops were installed recently by previous owner). No GFCI. Wire splits somewhere inaccessible (probably behind counter -- requiring me to GFCI each receptacle.) Only one circuit Not enough boxes to meet the 2ft/4ft rule. Wire is run through the cabinets -- visible (not behind the cabinets) I've allocated two circuits and plan to put the fridge and three receptacles on one and the gas range and four on the other. I will be adding two boxes. I plan to router a channel for the wires in the solid log wall above the counter tops and then install the backsplash over the wire. I am curious if hardiboard and tile (between 3/4 to 1 inch total of material) is sufficient protection for the wiring. Does code require some kind of metal protection or min distance from the surface? ...in the event someone tries to drill a hole in the backsplash? I want to make the groove depth as small as possible as one wall is an exterior load-carrying wall. <Q> Your issue is covered in the National Electric Code, for installations in the USA: <S> NEC 300.4 Cables and raceways shall be protected from damage. <S> Where installed through bored holes in wood framing members, the holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 1¼ inch from the nearest edge of the wood member, or shall be protected by a 1/16 inch steel plate. <S> So basically you need 1¼ of solid wood material (not counting the wallboard/wall covering) to buffer access to the wire, or a metal plate. <S> But in your case I'd I recommend using armored cable <S> (formerly known as 'bx'). <S> Or emt (conduit). <S> Then you've got no worries. <S> Frequent practice is to have the fridge on it's own circuit, and the dishwasher (if you've got one) is required to be on its own. <A> Protecting the Cable National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Article 300 Wiring Methods <S> I. General Requirements 300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage. <S> (F) Cables and Raceways Installed in Shallow Grooves. <S> Cable- or raceway-type wiring methods installed in a groove, to be covered by wallboard, siding, paneling, carpeting, or similar finish, shall be protected by 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) <S> thick steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent or by not less than 32-mm (11/4-in.) <S> free space for the full length of the groove in which the cable or raceway is installed. <S> Exception <S> No. <S> 1: Steel plates, sleeves, or the equivalent shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing. <S> So you have a couple options. <S> Free Space <S> Run the groove deep enough, so that there's 1 1/4" of free space in front of the cable. <S> Steel Protection Protect the cable using a 1/16" steel plate, or sleeve. <S> Or install the cable in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing. <S> Dividing the Circuits National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Article 210 Branch Circuits <S> I. General Provisions <S> 210.11 Branch Circuits Required. <S> (C) Dwelling Units. <S> (1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. <S> In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by 210.52(B). <S> III. <S> Required Outlets <S> 210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets. <S> (B) <S> Small Appliances. <S> (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. <S> In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment. <S> Exception <S> No. 2: <S> The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater. <S> (2) <S> No Other Outlets. <S> The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets. <S> Exception <S> No. <S> 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units. <S> So as far as your plan for dividing up the circuits, you're spot on. <A> (I agree with Bryce). <S> Since you said you're going to be notching/ <S> grooving the path, you will need to use the flexible metal conduit for continuous protection and you might also be interested in this area of the residential code: R602.6 Drilling and notching-studs. <S> Drilling and notching of studs shall be in accordance with the following: 1. <S> Notching. <S> Any stud in an exterior wall or bearing partition may be cut or notched to a depth not exceeding 25 percent of its width. <S> Studs in nonbearing partitions may be notched to a depth not to exceed 40 percent of a single stud width.
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You should use either flexible metallic conduit or 1/16 inch steel plates to protect the wiring behind the backsplash if you can't put the cable at least 1 1/4 inches from either edge of the stud.
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What is the easiest way to install 4" recessed lights in 6" holes? I purchased some nice-looking 4" recessed LED fixtures to replace my existing fixtures that use incandescent bulbs. I've now discovered that my current recessed lights are of the 6" variety. I like the size and appearance of the 4" lights better than any 6" fixtures that I've seen. How hard it is to "shrink" the holes in the ceiling so that 4" recessed lights will work. What's the best way to achieve this? <Q> Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - <S> the can and the trim . <S> They need to match. <S> The first issue will be getting the old can out. <S> If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. <S> If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace system. <S> More complicated to remove and usually requiring cutting a bigger hole to get to it. <S> Even if it is old-work, a 6" hole differs from a 4" hole by 1" on each side. <S> Cutting a 1" ring from drywall is hard, leaves you with a fragile piece, and will be difficult to tape and mud smoothly, and hard to brace properly. <S> I would suggest cutting a somewhat larger square out of the existing ceiling area. <S> This will allow you to remove a new work can, if that is what you have. <S> Leave at least 2" on each side of the hole. <S> Once you have a section out of the ceiling, you may be able to reach the framing to attach a new-work type unit. <S> More likely, you will use an old-work style. <S> In either case, you will need to brace the new patch to provide strength to hold up the patch and possibly the new fixture. <S> You can do this by using furring strips that are at least 6" longer than the size of your patch. <S> The furring strips will extend on either side of the patch. <S> The strips should be screwed to the ceiling beyond the patch and the patch should then be screwed to the strips. <S> I would use 4 strips, all parallel, two on the outside edge of the patch and two just a bit wider than the location of the new 4" hole. <S> Once the patch is up, tape and mud (spackle) the edges. <S> Finally, you might want to think about moving the new fixtures to a slightly different spot to get a solid surface to attach to. <S> This may require some adjustment in wiring. <A> I would need to see pictures of what said bulbs look like in your current cans <S> but I can tell you that they sell thousands of varieties of recessed lighting trim for 6 inch cans. <S> I am almost positive you can find trim that will work for your 4 inch retrofits and you don't have to touch the drywall. <A> My guess is that you really don't want to shrink the holes that the existing 6" recessed lights are in. <S> That requires a lot of drywall skill, paint color matching, paint blending, and a lot of work to make your ceiling look as good as it does now. <S> Instead, I think you should consider LEDs with a 6" baffle trim. <S> This video shows an example: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9oCX_ZBga5A . <S> Or, you could possibly use a baffle like this with the fixtures that you already bought: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Halo-6-in-LED-Baffle-Trim-494WB06/202024774 . <A> One solution that may be more expensive, but possibly simpler is to create a "trim adapter" specialized to the 4" LED fixtures. <S> The fixtures should mount into the trim and the trim should mount to the existing 6" cans (e.g. via spring holes). <S> Something like this below: <S> The trim adapter can be printed using an online 3D printing service . <A> The question is now "how do I make a 6" opening to be able to fit a 4 inch opening the size of the smaller light fixture?". <S> Cut a 4" opening in a piece of sheet rock the size of the old opening. <S> Slide the circular piece of sheet rock into the opening in the ceiling and use some sort of tape to hold it in place. <S> Spackle around the newly inserted piece. <S> After it dries, sand the area and paint. <S> It will look as good as new.
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I would cut the new 4" hole (check the fixture for exact hole size) before mounting the patch to the ceiling. Unfortunately if you would like a very professional finish using the same spot that the 6" light was in, there is no short cut but to remove the 6" can entirely.
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My light switch make a loud noise when used slowly; does it need to be replaced / fixed? I have a 3-way switch that controls 6 recessed CFL floods. One of the switches consistently makes a loud crackling / popping noise when used slowly. The other switch if played with slowly enough will make a quiet pop after several trys. Should either of these switches be repaired / replaced? <Q> Yes, I would replace any switch that is consistently making the "popping" noise. <S> This noise is from sparking of the switch contacts and is a bad thing and could lead to switch failure or even a fire. <S> When choosing a new switch choose one that has a quality snap action to it. <S> Lastly stop teasing the switches by moving them slowly. <S> This is a bad practice and should be avoided. <S> Operate the switches as they are meant to be used - snap on - snap off. <A> Almost any switch if moved slowly enough will make that noise. <S> Its arcing between the contacts inside the switch. <S> In some you can even see the spark in the dark. <S> For a properly working switch the only way it usually happens is if you intentionaly hold the switch in the middle. <S> This arcing will eventually damage the contacts of the switch, causing it to fail prematurely. <S> If the switch got stuck in that position long enough the heat from the arcing could potentially cause a fire. <S> Usually the switch will simply fail without causing a fire, but it is a possibility. <S> If you are just intentionally moving the switch between positions very slowly - stop doing that! <S> The switches may still need replacing from the damage the arcing has already caused. <A> If the switch got stuck in that position long enough the heat from the arcing could potentially cause a fire. <S> Usually the switch will simply fail without causing a fire, but it is a possibility. ... <S> This noise is from sparking of the switch contacts and is a bad thing and could lead to switch failure or even a fire.
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If the switches feel lose or don't quickly snap between on and off positions, they need to be replaced.
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kitchen sink plumbing hook up I am remodeling and I have to replace kitchen cabinets and sink, I was thinking if I had a set up like I do for my washing machine,-in wall faucets and drain it would make it easy to disconnect and move sink out to replace the bad floor then put it back until the new cabinets come in. do they make something like this, is it a good idea? <Q> If you really want to go through this effort (rather than just capping off the lines), then you should just install the lines into the walls (if they aren't already). <S> Normally you'd just cap the lines off until you're ready to hook everything up (as seen in my picture above), but there's nothing stopping you from putting valves on instead of caps, which is a great idea anyway <S> (it makes it easier to hook up, service later, etc). <S> With the pipes in the walls, you can freely work on the floor and install cabinets without worrying about them (and as you can see in this photo, it was before I had flooring or cabinets in). <S> Here's the same connections (with valves) after installing cabinets and the new sink: <S> Nothing stops you from using valves instead of caps, though it does require cutting a bigger hole in the cabinet to install. <S> Depending on your cabinet style you may or may not like this -- <S> in my case these are pretty cheap cabinets installed in a laundry room in the basement, I wasn't too worried. <S> Just be sure you don't accidentally knock the vales open while you're working, or you'll ruin the floor that you're not even finished installing yet! <A> That probably violates code for the clean-out somehow. <S> Yes, it will work, however there will also be an air gap where you shoved the drain into the standpipe leading to bad smell if the trap has goo in it. <S> It's OK for washing machines because there's no food waste and a good dose of soap every time. <A> Not really necessary. <S> There should be shutoff valves under the sink. <S> Usually those can be turned off (verify that once they are no water comes out of the faucet) and the pipes up to the faucet can be disconnected. <S> The same is true with the waste lines. <S> They normally have screw fittings that can be removed and reassembled. <S> A wall box like a washer uses won't work for a sink. <S> A sink has the trap under it, a washer box has the trap hidden in the wall. <S> A washer pumps water up and out, a sink relies on gravity. <S> There can be no openings in the pipe after the trap, doing so will allow sewer gases into the home. <S> In commercial spaces and in some countries it is common to have a drain (with trap) on the floor, and the fixtures have pipes that empty out above the drain. <S> This can be messy and is rarely done in residential.
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It is not advisable to have an inaccessible trap for a kitchen sink.
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Can I reduce capacity of a water heater? I recently purchased a large fixer upper with a 135 gallon AO smith gas water heater built in 2001. Only two people are living in the house so we need a fraction of that amount. Do water heaters always store their full capacity or is there some way to limit what they store or reduce their cost other than turning the temperature down? <Q> A larger tank does not cost more energy. <S> The only thing that costs energy is when the water cools - and that depends only on the surface area, not the amount of water in the tank. <S> (Mathematically volume increases by the 3rd power, but surface area only by the 2nd power.) <S> So to save energy add extra insulation around the tank. <S> Reducing the amount of water in the tank will do nothing since it won't save all that much surface area (and potentially none at all). <S> (Yes, it takes more energy to heat the water in the first place, but after that it doesn't matter - and you already heated it.) <A> Actually, the math seems to contradict parts of the top-voted, accepted answer. <S> Assume that you decide to cut the volume of the water tank in half, by reducing, in proportion, the dimensions of the actual internal tank, while leaving the shape the same, and leaving the thickness of the insulation the same. <S> This would require each linear dimension to be reduces to 79.4% of the original value (cube root of 0.5). <S> This in turn means that the any area of the tank would decrease to 63.0% of the original volume (79.4% squared). <S> So, theoretically, this reduced tank would have heat conduction losses reduced to the same 63.0% of original. <S> This said, there is no real-world way to achieve this reduced size without replacing the tank. <A> Water tanks store the water under pressure, just like the rest of the piping in your house, so there's no way to keep it partially full. <S> Turning down the temperature would be a great way to save money if it's higher than the recommended 120º. <S> If you can't or won't turn it down, you might just consider replacing the tank. <S> 13 years is getting up there for a hot water heater... <S> you might only have a few more years left in it. <S> Plus a new one is likely to be more efficient, regardless of size. <A> Turns out, the surprising answer is you can reduce the thermal energy stored in a fixed size tank water heater. <S> At rest, water in a tank stratifies or even 'stacks', an effect well known to solar installers. <S> Hot water floats up top and cold water sinks. <S> A typical older water heater has just one temperature sensor low down in the tank. <S> Move that sensor higher on the tank, and it won't react to cold water at the bottom of the tank. <S> The top of the tank will have hot water, the bottom cold water, pretty much like you wanted. <S> Now there is a significant downside: vigorous flow can mix the water in the tank, giving you the average between the hot water on top and the cold water in the bottom. <S> If you could carefully draw the water off the top there would be no problem, but cheap tanks are going to introduce some turbulence and run the stratification pretty quickly. <S> And note this works better in electric heaters compared to gas heaters (with an electric you can disable the lower element, and regardless there is less mixing with the heat is on). <S> Great discussions on these matters can be read in United States Patent #6880493 or http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-water-heaters
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As others have pointed out, reducing the water temperature and adding insulation are both cost-effective ways to reduce stand-by costs
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How to determine gas leak on a water heater? My gas water heater is certainly leaking gas. I can smell it. Using the image below, it seems like it might be coming from the red circle where the dial connects to the thermostat or the blue circle where the manifold tube connects to the thermostat. I don't smell anything around the green circle, the pilot tube. Is it even possible to leak where the red circle is? If not then I assume it is the blue circle, the manifold tube. Is there a trick to tightening the manifold tube, like there is for water pipes? I have it as tight as I can get it right now. If it is leaking from the red circle area do I have to replace the whole thermostat? <Q> Time to call a professional; either a plumber or the local fire department. <S> They can use more sophisticated leak detectors to pinpoint the leak, and know how to do so safely. <S> Leaking gas is not something to trifle with. <S> I think an electronic combustible gas detector is in order. <A> You can use a mixture of water and dish soap to discover where it is leaking. <S> I'm not sure of the ratio <S> but you want it the consistency to be somewhat thicker than water, maybe 1 cup water and one Table spoon dish soap. <S> Combine in a container and gently swish around until it is evenly distributed. <S> Once you have the solution made apply liberally to the area you suspect. <S> If it is leaking there you should see bubbles from the gas leak. <S> If it is leaking at the red area. <S> you would need to replace the valve. <A> Buy a leak reactant, because soap and water is not good enough: a micro bubble coccoon will appear at the leaks. <S> Call the gas company
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Liquid leak detectors (the type that bubble up when gasses are leaking) are great for simple threaded connections, but you've got a whole host of potential leak sources, some of which appear to be not conducive to slathering soapy water on.
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Why does hot water come from the faucet when only the cold water tap is on? On occasion, when I open the cold water tap on the kitchen sink, the flow from the faucet briefly becomes warm: it starts cool, becomes warm for about 30 seconds, and then returns to the desired cold temperature. I have only observed this to happen early in the morning, when the plumbing has not been in use all night. It seems to happen no more than once in a day. What could be the reason for this? <Q> There are a few possible reasons: Some hot water recirculation systems use the cold water as a return. <S> In these systems, warm water is returned in the cold water pipe until hot water reaches the the temperature valve that controls the recirculation. <S> Or, perhaps the one-way valve near the pump is failing. <S> Hot water pipes could be touching a cold water pipe (probably near the water heater). <S> The two pipes touching would heat up the cold water pipe. <S> Cold water pipes could be touching a ventilation duct. <S> In the winter, the duct would be warm and would heat up the cold water. <S> No heat trap in the water heater inlet. <S> In the morning, try to feel which parts of the cold water pipe are hot, and that'll be your answer. <S> Another thing to check, but is likely unrelated, is the condition of a water expansion tank (generally mounted near the water heater) if you have one, or contemplate installing one if you do not (they're needed if you have a pressure reducing valve or a one-way valve in your water meter). <A> Mixing valves can cause this, a typical culprit can often be found in a washing machine or also a single handle plumbing fixture, they malfunction and allow the hot to pressure into the cold line. <S> That is <S> if you get hot water constantly out of the cold side, the question of why is it warm at first is pretty normal stuff, basic physics. <A> Hot water in lines causes the lines (especially copper lines) to heat up. <S> In some faucets the hot water supply gets warm enough to heat the whole body of the faucet, including the cold water lines in the immediate vicinity of the faucet. <S> This warms the cold water nearest the faucet, causing it to be warm for a short while. <S> Once some cold water flows through the line, it eliminates this warming effect. <A> I have used recirculating couplers, without a pump, in two of my houses; relying on convection only to keep the water hot at the tap, which has worked quite well. <S> They have the same effect as what you have stated. <S> I would say that if you get almost instant hot water out of the hot tap and warm water out of the cold tap, which lasts a short while, then you may have a recirculating coupler somewhere in the system. <A> I have reviewed about a dozen different websites and nothing matched up... <S> the solution, found by accident, was a malfunctioned heat tape that had locked on and fried the thermostat and was heating the cold water line from the well all the way to the cold water taps in the house... <S> in fact we had hot water going INTO the hot water tank in the cold line... <S> which was part of the confusion since that matched some of the possible causes I read about online and checked out, such as routing etc. <S> The problem appeared suddenly, as in the days following the first freezing temperatures at night.
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Hot water might flow up out of the water heater into the cold water pipes.
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How to repair a microwave door with a broken spot weld My microwave door slacks down and I have to lift it up a bit before shutting it. I sent this picture to Frigidaire and asked what I should do: Their support emailed me back saying: I'm sorry, there is no screw that goes in the hole. that actually is a broken spot weld for the hinge. The hinge cannot be repaired. Here's a short video of the issue: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMWu6HFAwN0&feature=youtu.be I want to fix the issue without replacing my entire microwave. Anyone have any ideas on how I can fix this? <Q> Don't do it. <S> Microwaves, while safe, emit a significant radiation that is controlled, in part, by a carefully designed door interlock system. <S> If it is compromised, there is a risk of radiation leakage. <S> You don't fix microwave doors, you send it back for them to fix or you replace the entire unit. <S> Period . <S> SUPPLEMENT <S> The World Health Organization <S> (WHO) has this to say about microwave oven safety. <S> Microwave safety: The design of microwave ovens ensures that the microwaves are contained within the oven and can only be present when the oven is switched on and the door is shut. <S> Leakage around and through the glass door is limited by design to a level well below that recommended by international standards. <S> However, microwave leakage could still occur around damaged, dirty or modified microwave ovens. <S> It is therefore important that the oven is maintained in good condition. <S> Users should check that the door closes properly and that the safety interlock devices, fitted to the door to prevent microwaves from being generated while it is open, work correctly. <S> The door seals should be kept clean and there should be no visible signs of damage to the seals or the outer casing of the oven. <S> If any faults are found or parts of the oven are damaged, it should not be used until it has been repaired by an appropriately qualified service engineer [emphasis added]. <S> The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) says this Checking For Leakage <S> : There is little cause for concern about excess microwaves leaking from ovens unless the door hinges, latch, or seals are damaged . <S> If you suspect a problem, contact the oven manufacturer, a microwave oven service organization, your state health department, or the closest FDA office [emphasis added]. <S> The problem described is not just tightening a screw or putting a seal back in its track. <S> The door is misaligned and poses a risk. <A> I had the same problem. <S> I fixed it with a small screw, washer, and nut. <S> I had to pick a screw with a shallow head. <S> Now, several years later, the metal at that point is beginning to crack, and the door is sagging again. <S> I am not sure what to do, but I did lengthen the life of the microwave. <A> It's hard to tell from your video how the hinge works. <S> It probably works like the top hinge. <S> If it is simply attached to the front like the "broken weld" suggests, then your goal would be to reattach it. <S> My go-to for this would be a steel rivet. <S> They come in handy. <S> Though, if there is no existing hole in the hinge part, it might be impractical to make a hole to accommodate the rivet while the microwave is assembled. <S> Bare in mind that disassembling the microwave would make some on this site uneasy. <S> I say use your common sense. <S> If you feel uncomfortable or that you're not up to it, don't do it. <A> I just fixed the same problem. <S> 6-32 screw from the outside and a nut on the inside. <S> I was unable to get it off the wall <S> so I just removed the screws that hold the bottom on and fixed it from underneath. <A> I did the same as James without having seen this thread. <S> The screw used must be a flathead type so that it does not protrude from the front of the microwave chassis and interfere with door closure.
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On my Frigidaire microwave, the hole does go through both the door frame and the hinge piece. Trying to realign and weld parts of the safety system seems very ill-advised. If you don't have a handheld riveter, I highly recommend getting one.
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What type of wire should I use to feed a 70 ampere subpanel? Finishing a basement and I need to add a subpanel. Main panel is outside. Subpanel will be in the basement. 70 Amp breaker in the main to feed the subpanel. I was thinking THHN but would this mean I need to run the conduit all the way to the subpanel? Would NM-B be ok? Edit: I live in Colorado if that makes any difference and I think the wire size is #6 for THHN and #4 for NM-B. <Q> If you're using Non-metallic sheathed cable, the jacket fulfills this requirement. <S> If you're running individual conductors, you'll have to use conduit or some other approved raceway. <S> As for conductor size. <S> This means whether you use single conductors or a cable assembly, you're still going to have to use 4 AWG conductors. <S> NOTES: <S> - More information can be found in my answer to this question: What wire gauge do I need for a 100 Amp subpanel at the end of a 60' wire run? <S> - After further research, it appears 75°C is common for load center terminals (check your specific equipment to be sure). <A> When figuring circuit ampacity you can never use the 90 °C column. <S> There is no way that every item on the circuit will meet or have 90 °C ratings. <S> The best you'll do for conductors in conduit it <S> the 75 °C column. <S> In my opinion 70A is an oddball sub-feed size. <S> There's no reason for it. <S> Either go with #6cu cable and a 60A feeder, or #4cu/#2al and go with a 90A feeder. <S> The sub-panel can be the same in either case. <A> I know this is an old question, but there was one aspect <S> the other answers did not address: <S> " <S> NM cannot be used in wet or damp locations (see 334.12(B)(4) of the NEC quoted below). <S> You could potentially use UF (similar to NM wire, but constructed to handle the outdoors) <S> provided the cable assembly is not subject to damage as defined by the NEC, or conduit/THWN outdoors and switch wire types at a junction box once the wiring reaches interior spaces. <S> From the 2011 and 2014 <S> NEC (wording is the same in both for this section): 334.12(B) <S> Types NM and NMS. <S> Types NM and NMS cables shall not be used under the following conditions or in the following locations: (4) <S> In wet or damp locations
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If you can meet all the requirements for using the 90°C column, you'll be able to use 6 AWG copper for the run. You cannot use NM for the whole run because of this comment in the question "Main panel is outside. The wiring will have to be in some form of raceway the entire run. However, since you're less than 100 amperes, you're likely going to be using the 60°C column.
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How can I safely remove snow from my roof? How do I remove snow from my roof? How about 4" of snow covered with 1/2" of ice? How do I know when I should risk getting out there to try to remove it? We just received a notice from The New York City Office of Emergency Management saying: The Dept. of Buildings is reminding property owners to de-ice public areas and safelyremove snow from roofs, overhangs, and awnings. The buildup of wet snow and rain can present a threat to the structural integrity of a building. I live in a suburb of NJ, but presumably the message still holds. I have been out on my back roof (accessible from my bedroom window) in the rain but the ice-covered snow that we've had build up lately is another matter. I don't want my husband out there either. He is concerned for the structural integrity of the roofs, and now I get that, but it's not worth risking life and limb. Any suggestions would be super. Thanks! <Q> I would suggest a roof rake - like this . <S> You would start about 3-4 feet up, crack through ice and then rake down. <S> If you have a tall roof this becomes a safety issue and might need two people - one to secure ladder. <S> It isn't easy work. <S> Also if you can safely get on top of the roof it is much easier to push the snow off. <A> The NYCOEM has no authority over NJ. <S> I'm guessing you received the notice as part of an alert system you signed up form. <S> Mailing list, twitter feed, etc. <S> The reason it's important for people in NYC to clear their roofs is because roofs generally are right over the sidewalks. <S> You don't want melting snow dripping on the walks and freezing or worse, having chunks of ice or snow falling 6 stories down on people. <S> I live in NJ just outside Manhattan <S> and I have never seen anyone rake snow off their roofs. <S> Generally houses are set back from the sidewalk, at least 50' in my area. <S> If your home is like most, you have regular landscaping just under your roof and not a sidewalk. <S> I just knock the icicles off <S> were <S> the front and side walkways are and throw some ice melt down on the front walk so it doesn't freeze for the mailman. <A> 99% of the time there is (or should be) <S> no need to remove snow from a roof that is properly built for the area it is in. " <S> Properly built for the area it is in" should include the ability to hold up the expected maximum snow load for that area until it melts. <S> As a side note, in new construction, it is often VERY affordable to add 10-20 pounds per square foot of loading to the "code minimum" for the area when buying the trusses. <S> As far as I recall a paid about 4% more for a 20% increase (and peace of mind) on my last building project. <S> Only shoddily constructed buildings require removing snow from the roof, with the associated labor and fall hazards, excepting the already mentioned city condition of ice falling to sidewalks (and that is arguably also bad design, as clambering around on icy roofs is not any safer in the city, especially if its 6 stories to a cement sidewalk...) <S> A handy and practial link from Sterling Mass with a very direct method (core it, melt it with a coffee can, measure the depth of water in the can used to core it, and multiply by 5.2 lbs/sqft/inch of water depth) to assess the current weight on the roof (since snow varies a lot.) <S> So if your 4.5 inches was solid ice, it would only weigh 23.4 lbs/sqft, well below any standard US roof (minimum 30 PSF per uniform codes even where no snow is expected) <A> I saw a roof rake on This Old House about a year ago that looked so simple, yet brilliant. <S> Instead of having to scrape a little bit of snow at a time down to you or to push, this device slid a sheet of plastic between the roof and the snow so that one big column came down at one time. <S> I don't have the need for one <S> but it looked like a real time saver. <A> Besides the amount of snow on your roof, an important consideration is the slope of the roof. <S> If the roof is barely sloped (level or nearly level), ice and snow accumulation is more of a priority to do. <S> Naturally it is also safer to do. <S> If it is moderately sloped, 20°–35°, then it is less urgent to clear as it will naturally shed excess load under many weather conditions. <S> Snow covered with ice <S> is one of the situations in which it probably will not automatically shed excess accumulation. <S> Unless you happen to have little insulation in the ceiling/attic. <S> In that case, you could simply turn the heat way up inside the house (90+ °F) for a few hours and let the heat do the work safely and easily. <S> As someone else pointed out, you need not bother if there is nothing endangered by falling ice. <S> If the roof is steeply sloped (35+°), you should not need to do anything: <S> it should just slide off. <S> That is why buildings in deep snow areas, like Alpine lodges, have steep roofs. <S> If you have to get out on it when it is snow covered, hopefully you already have climbing anchors installed. <S> If the roof is structurally challenged (which is unlikely), it might already be too late to do anything about it. <S> If it is a two or more story building, remove non-replaceable items from the attic and top floor and stay on the lower floors until the danger is passed. <S> If there is only one floor, maybe stay at somebody's else house or a hotel for a day or two.
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If you do have sidewalk under the end of your roof, or have some other issue like maybe a really old roof in bad shape that can't handle the snow load, I don't see a reason to bother with it.
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Why is the neutral wire the same size as hot wire in a 3C cable? I thought that the wire size depends on the amperage that the current passes. However in a 3 conductor cable, the size of the neutral wire is the same as the hot wire; which puzzles me. If both hot wires carry 15A current, the neutral wire will carry 30A current. <Q> So a load of 5A on one leg, and 15A on the other leg, will result in a load of 10A on the neutral. <S> For a typical MWBC it is extremely rare that both legs will be 100% balanced, so the neutral will almost certainly carry some current. <S> This is why a straight 240V circuit (which is a line-to-line circuit as opposed to a line-to-neutral) requires no neutral wire. <S> It is a 100% balanced line-to-line circuit. <S> See? <A> A simplified representation of a multi-wire branch circuit, would look something like this. <S> If each part of the circuit had a 120 Watt light bulb installed, it would look like this. <S> If the switch on L1 was closed, you'd see 1 ampere on the circuit. <S> Ohm's law <S> I= <S> P/E <S> L1 <S> = 1A, N = 1A, L2 <S> = 0A <S> If both switches were closed, you'd still see 1 ampere on the circuit. <S> However, in this case the current flows line to line, and there will be no current on N . <S> L1 = 1A, N <S> = 0A, L2 <S> = 1A <S> If we replace one of the 120 Watt bulbs with a 240 Watt bulb, you'll see that the unbalanced load flows on N . <S> 'L1' = <S> 2A, N <S> = 1A, L2 = 1A <S> So as you can see, the neutral ( N ) will never carry more than either line ( L ). <S> At least not in a properly wired circuit. <S> This is because of the nature of alternating current, and the properties of a split-phase system. <A> No, because the two hot legs are out of phase. <S> So 15 amps on one side will cancel out the 15 amps on the other side. <A> 3 conductor cable is usually used for one of two purposes: <S> An additional/dedicated hot (i.e. feeding a switched light and an always-on receptacle), or a multi-wire branch circuit. <S> In the case of a multi-wire branch circuit, the two hot legs come from different legs of your supply (+120V, -120V), so they actually cancel each other out when properly balanced. <S> You are correct in that you would not want to return 2 15 amp circuits on the same leg via a single neutral. <A> The two hot legs are <S> NOT out of phase! <S> They are completely in-phase . <S> No current flows through the neutral when the same load is applied to both legs of the hots <S> because all of the current flows through the hots (only) from one end to the other across the entire length of the (power pole) transformer secondary winding. <S> A difference current flows through the neutral only when the loads on the two legs of the hot are not equal --- not because they are out of phase (because they are not out of phase) <S> but because they are out of balance ! <S> If the two hot wires were out of phase then no current at all would flow into a 240-volt motor when it is wired across the hots. <S> I'm not an electrician, but I am a certified electronic technician and I do know electricity . <S> I've been wiring circuits since before the Beatles were a band. <A> As others have said the 3 conductor cable could be used for feeding two circuits on split phases. <S> Transformer on the pole (or in the ground) is used as shown in Tester101's diagrams. <S> However, you must be sure that the breakers in the panel are on two different phases. <S> Generally breakers that are adjacent to one another are on different phases but not always. <S> Some panels have alternating phases at the top of the panel and some at the lower end adjacent breakers are the same phase. <S> Also a dual breaker that fits in a single slot would not be on separate phases. <A> The exception to this rule is harmonics. <S> Triplet harmonics will SUM in the neutral, in a 3 phase supply. <S> Triplets come from single phase rectifiers (eg most electronic power supplies for computers, TV's, microwaves, etc).In years gone by when there were less electronic consumer products, half size neutrals were used in 3P supplies. <S> Today the minimum is same size neutrals, and even double size in some installations, depending on the nature of the expected load. <A> There are many varieties of three and four conductor cables that have unequal size conductors for this very reason: http://www.wireandcabletogo.com/Underground-Secondary-Distribution-Cable/
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When it is said that the current cancels each other out, it means that the neutral of a multi-wire branch circuit only carries the imbalance of the current between the two circuits of a properly wired MWBC.
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Minimum drop on washer drain? I would like to add a diverter valve to my washer's drain line to facilitate a graywater system. I'm thinking of shortening the washer drain so I can relocate the P-trap higher up and add the diverter valve beneath it on the main stack. If I were to do this, what's the shortest that I could make the washer drain? What does the code say, and what does sanity say? If necessary, I can just move the washer box higher up; it's a little low as it is. Here's a picture to show my thoughts: The dryer ducting is all going to be removed, and the 220v outlet is going to be relocated, so ignore those. And needless to say, that cast iron is going to be replaced with ABS. <Q> International Residential Code 2012 <S> Chapter 27 - Plumbing Fixtures <S> Section P2706 Waste Receptors P2706.2 Standpipes. <S> Standpipes shall extend not less than of 18 inches (457 mm) but not greater than 42 inches (1067 mm) above the trap weir. <S> Access shall be provided to standpipe traps and drains for rodding. <A> Practically speaking, what you want to do is fine. <S> The minimum horizontal slope is 1/4 inch per foot and the max is 3 inches per foot unless vertical. <S> the inlet of the washer drain must be above the height of the washer. <S> This is usually 36 to 38 inches minimum for floor seated washers. <S> Obviously, if your washer is set on a platform, you will need to adjust the height of the drain inlet to be above the washer. <S> I like to see at least a foot to 18 inches higher than the washer so that the drain can keep up with the washer pump and not overflow. <S> I caution you however, if the diverter valve slows the drain flow at the current drain diameter, you may need to increase the pipe/valve diameter size to avoid back-up and overflow. <A> You probably ought to ask your local building code enforcement. <S> The numbers I find are wildly variable state-by-state. <S> Wisconsin seems to have a minimum drop of 12 inches and Michigan is 18 inches. <S> Most states seems to mention the drain opening must be <S> at least 34 (or 36) inches off the finished floor without specifying any minimum drop. <S> If you can't get a straight answer from the inspectors, I would play it safe and move the box up 36+ inches off the floor so that it is a) out of the way of those pipes, b) replaced by a nice, non-crufty connection box, and c) handier to reach when a washer is in position.
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International residential code says that a standpipe must be no less than 18" above the trap weir. Check local codes, to determine what's acceptable in your area.
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How to (portably) mount warped plywood artwork on apartment drywall? I have a 4' x 4' piece of plywood artwork (acrylic painting) that has become warped. It used to be mounted to drywall using velcro strips, but now the outward force of the warp is strong enough that "peels" off and cannot stay on the wall. I've tried undoing the warp by wetting the concave side and flattening with weights, which only seems to work temporarily — the warp returns after a few days. Is there a way to permanently undo the warp, so that the velcro mounting system is viable? Or is there another way to mount this that would be non-destructive to the art and reasonably portable? One answer in Is there a way to remove the warp in plywood recommends nailing or screwing the plywood to something, but that sounds destructive and non-portable. (Another suggests leaving the plywood in the sun, but sadly I don't have a place to do that near my apartment.) <Q> Plywood is a lamination of several layers of wood set with the grain rotating with each layer. <S> This actually helps resist warping, but does not eliminate it (as you can see). <S> This happens because of some flexibility in the glue that allows a gradual creep. <S> The usual solution is as you suspect - laminate the plywood to something else. <S> This could be a metal bar, either aluminum or steel. <S> Perhaps the most effective would be angle stock (metal forming an "L" in cross section). <S> A flat edge of the angle is screwed to the back. <S> The perpendicular edge then acts as a brace. <S> If you do this, you need to first flatten the piece as much as possible. <S> I would recommend placing it face down on a flat surface, possibly with a sheet below it to protect the art surface. <S> Then weigh down the corners with very heavy weights, such as full paint cans or barbell discs. <S> Lay an angled bar across the full width near the top and another across the bottom. <S> Place screws every 6 inches. <S> The screw length should be long enough to go through the angle stock and 3/4 of the way through the plywood. <S> You can then rehang the piece using a wire threaded through holes at the ends of the angle stock. <S> An alternative bracing can .be done with strips of plywood, al teast 3 inches wide and 3/4 inches thick. <S> These can be glued and screwed to the flattened panel instead of the angle stock. <S> If you use a strong wood glue, such as Titebond Ultimate, this will help prevent creep, as will the screws. <S> The advantage the angle stock method is that it is reversible (no glue). <A> Maybe you could make a frame for the picture and screw it on from behind. <S> It might pull the plywood back to shape. <S> Depends on how thick the ply is. <A> I've tried undoing the warp by wetting the concave side and flattening with weights, which only seems to work temporarily — the warp returns after a few days. <S> If you paint the back (acrylic paints on the front, use acrylic gesso on the back) <S> when you have gotten it flat, it's much more likely to stay flat - with one surface only painted, it will always warp.
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If you really need to use velcro, you could attach wooden filler strips to the upright edge of the angle stock, and attach the velcro to the back of these strips.
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Could bad grounding cause sparks and fire when connecting the cable box and TV? I just moved into a home built in 1955. During inspection, it was noted that none of the outlets were grounded even though they had three prong outlets installed. Per our agreement, the owner supposedly grounded all the sockets using a licensed electrician. During our final walk through, the owner's general handy man told us he rewired everything. I unfortunately didn't think anything of it. Come to move in day. The cable installer shows up. When plugging the HDMI cable into the TV, the cable box sparks and catches fire and the TV is dead. Scorched and melted HDMI ports on both end. The cable installer assumes a bad box, gives me a new box. We try again with new everything (cable box, power cords, HDMI cable, TV). This time we notice the HDMI sparks like mad when making contact with the HDMI port in the TV. Luckily we were wary this time and didn't actually plug the cable in. At this point I'm suspecting the "unhandy" man botched the grounding on the outlets. I'm getting an electrician out here Monday to take a look. Right now I'm avoiding plugging anything in with a three prong power cord. Any thoughts? Does my hypothesis sound correct? Links to pictures. http://imgur.com/a/8sjx1 Suspicions confirmed. The guy didn't even cheat. He hooked the hot wire to the ground, he should of at least used the neutral cable to boot leg it. <Q> This is a very suspicious situation. <S> Adding a proper ground to every receptacle in the house is no small feat, it's weird that the handyman just casually mentioned that he did it. <S> I believe the only correct way to do it would be to run a new ground wire of the proper size back to the service panel where it can be connected to the grounding rods. <S> Perhaps the handy man just used pigtails to ground to the box, as @SpeedyPetey says. <S> Or maybe he connected the ground to the neutral, which would be good enough to fool an outlet tester. <S> Or maybe he accidentally connected the ground to the hot side, which might explain your sparks. <S> (Many appliances have their metal housing connected to ground. <S> If the exterior of one of your appliances was actually electrified that would explain the sparks.) <S> If you have a simple outlet tester <S> you could start with that, but it will not detect all faulty conditions like a ground / neutral swap or connection. <S> You could also shut the power off and pull one of the receptacles off the wall, to see if you can tell what kind of grounding, if any, is actually there. <S> I suspect you will want to get an electrician and your real estate agent involved. <A> If you have an ungrounded system, the only safe and legal way of grounding it is to run all new cables. <S> I have come across outlets that had a "fake ground", that is where the neutral is also connected to the ground screw. <S> If the hot and neutral wires were swapped, which can easily happen on old cloth wiring where the white color has fallen off the neutral, you would see the exact problem you have. <S> Which could also cause the problems you are seeing. <S> To ground them properly would have likely required putting holes in the walls. <S> The reason being that all of the cables supplying those outlets would need to be replaced. <S> The only way to get around doing that is to put in outlets that don't have a ground pin, or to put in GFCI outlets. <A> Use a non-contact voltage detector pen to check the ground screw/strap of each outlet -- if hot is present on the outlet ground terminal (i.e. the reverse polarity bootleg ground that has been alluded to by other answers), it will light up brightly and/or beep at you as soon as you put it near the hot outlet ground strap; on a properly wired outlet, you'll need to stick the tip in the hot slot. <S> See this article for more details on the problem you may have.
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I have also seen it where the hot wire has shorted to the ungrounded metal box, which the outlet was then swapped to one that has a ground pin. As an aside it is very unlikely to find a handy-man that could fix this situation that quickly, and do so properly.
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Can I shut off the cold water supply to an oil furnace while away on vacation? I have a hot water baseboard oil fired system. I am going away for a while and would like to shut off the cold supply to all the house in case of a water leak. If I leave the furnace on to heat the house, will shutting off the cold water supply to the furnace be a problem? <Q> It should not be a problem. <S> Your boiler should have a cut-off switch so if, for example, a baseboard springs a leak then the pressure drop will turn off the boiler. <S> If your boiler is old enough to not have such a switch, then turning off the water is probably a bad idea. <A> I think it is somewhat risky to shut off the water supply because you have deviated from the normal. <S> At least you might want to test your plan before you actually leave. <A> I was told by my oil delivery company that my baseboard system is a closed one and does not replenish itself. <S> I have not had the time to investigate the system fully, including whether it had ever had antifreeze added, but I will get to it eventually; two years into this house, and that is still a low priority project. <S> That said, I did believe the oil company enough to shut the water off to the house, and to the boiler, each time I have traveled since moving into this house, including a recent two week vacation. <S> My advice is to call whomever services your boiler and ask them; as I did.
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I have seen no deleterious side effects from shutting the water off.
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Questions after a test-run grout replacement I have very little experience with this sort of thing, so after reading and watching you-tube videos I attempted a test patch - a 3 tile wide, 1.5 tile deep section (these are 12" floor tiles). And now, I have questions… Removing the old grout I purchased a hand grout saw for the test patch. My grout lines are 1/4", so the saw is significantly narrower. I tried to cover all areas but kept finding myself with tiny parallel ruts. I finally resorted to running the saw at a slight angle. This helped, and did not seem to be damaging the tile, but I never saw any recommendations to do this so I'm wondering if it was a bad idea? I also wasn't sure how much of the old grout to remove. I basically just got the dirty layer off. For the whole big job I plan to use a Dremel; there are two different types of blades for this, one that's basically a powered version of the hand saw and another that uses a bit that can be set to a particular depth. Is one more appropriate than the other for this job? And can I expect to have less trouble taking the old grout off evenly? The grout I have a feeling that my grout choice was too sophisticated for me. :) I used TEC Power Grout RTU, which is a premixed sanded grout that doesn't need sealing. It sounded perfect. However, in reality it was very thick, nothing like the wet mud texture I saw in all those videos. I got it spread but it required quite a bit of elbow grease and was very difficult to get smooth. The original grout, at least according to the builder, was TEC sanded powder grout, which I would have to order from Lowes. I had thought that using the premixed stuff would protect me against having mixed it incorrectly, but now I'm not so sure. EDIT - I returned the grout I had bought (I have to give Lowe's credit for allowing this, since I had used some) and ordered a bag of the same brand and color of powdered grout that the builder says they used. This should help with the amount of effort it took to get it spread. The application As I said, the grout fought me every step of the way. It rolled up into balls, it stuck more firmly to the rubber float than to the floor, and was just generally aggravating. However, I did finally get it to go where it belonged. The exception was the edges, where the grout line met the wall or the cabinet. It was impossible to move diagonally over the line in those places, which is essential to working with this stuff. Is there a trick to getting the edges right? The cleanup This was the smoothest part of the process, but I did notice that by the time I got the tiles clean there were obvious places in the grout lines where it was not applied thickly enough. I don't know if this was an application failure that I didn't notice because of the covering of grout everywhere (even after scraping with the float at 90 degrees) or if I was actually wiping away some of the product. Either way, I didn't know if it was ok to apply more with the surfaces wet, so I left it alone. This was only a test, and I fully expected to have to remove this grout and replace it, so I have already succeeded no matter how it looks. But I think I am going to have to get a different grout - the color was much whiter on the floor than in the tub or brochure, even though it's supposed to dry the same color, so we'll see. Right now it is too white for the tiles. EDIT - having changed the grout, I have one further question. The grout I will be using is TEC AccuColor Sanded Grout. Their website describes this as a "polymer-enhanced portland cement grout" but doesn't say anything one way or the other about whether it needs to be sealed as an additional step. I think that the polymer-enhancement means it does not, but can anyone confirm that? So - there's my tale, I'm hoping those with more experience than I can make some suggestions on how to make it go better the next time! <Q> I used an oscillating multi-tool with a carbide circular blade to grind out the grout. <S> I took it all out, and used a chisel to removed whatever remained. <S> Re-grouting is a grueling task; I could not find anyone to do it. <S> Sounds like you need to thin that grout. <S> Maybe some latex additive would help. <S> Grout should be pasty but flowing. <S> When all else fails, I use tongue blades to smooth caulk and grout. <S> It will flow and be heavy enough to sink to the bottom. <A> I cannot address question 1 although the use of an oscillating multi-tool as mentioned in another answer sounds like a good idea; I've used those tools to cut trim away near cabinets and it comes in handy for a wide variety of awkward geometry problems like that. <S> Question 2: <S> It does sound like the grout could have used a bit more water. <S> But only add water in very small amounts - it can go from too thick to too runny very quickly. <S> If it does get too runny, just leave it alone for 10 minutes or so and it will begin to thicken. <S> It is a tricky to force it into the space between tiles but going in several directions consecutively works for me. <S> When you get to the edge I just used some caulk that was made for that purpose. <S> Mine came from Lowes (which is where I bought my tile, adhesive, and grout) but seemed pretty common. <S> It was in the tile department and was colored the same as the grout I used as well as containing some sand to match the consistency. <S> This made the edge treatment much easier although not as trivial as I expected. <S> Like the grout, it was a bit tricky to get the surface just like I wanted. <S> I used my (wet) fingers a lot to smooth the surface. <S> Question 3: the cleanup. <S> The cleanup of the tile surface with a wet sponge does indeed remove some grout from the spaces but wiping lightly will leave a slightly concave shape to it. <S> I think it's key to wipe lightly <S> but you do have to wipe many times and wash off the sponge very often. <S> It is normal for a lot of grout to be left on the surface after the use of the float. <S> The float is pretty much to force the grout into the gap. <S> Cleaning was a long process requiring much clean water. <S> I had three buckets and my wife would empty and refill them as I wiped the tile and rinsed the sponge in clean water. <S> This is all pretty fresh in my mind; I just did my tile job last week. <A> I run my dremel at an angle all of the time for wider grout lines. <S> Actually this keeps it from jumping. <S> I am glad you ordered the correct stuff. <S> Premix is crap and you have no idea how long it has been on shelf. <S> When I am doing small/medium jobs I use big juice jugs to mix the grout - cut off the top few inches. <S> Now when you are mixing just let there be at least an inch of water at the bottom and start adding grout then water and so on until it is right. <S> 90% of your problems was the grout. <S> It should be less thick than peanut butter. <S> Let a smooth JIF peanut butter be a barometer for the thickest it can be. <S> Just make sure that you are making several parallel passes on each grout line, <S> then pushes in with perpendicular, then do gentle parallel wipes for finish. <S> If you want easy cleanup <S> I have two easy pieces of advice. <S> 30 minutes before grouting wipe down the tiles with a super heavy Dawn/water solution. <S> When this is mostly dry you can begin grouting. <S> Also use Dawn when you are wiping. <S> And every minute you should be wringing out sponge in bucket. <S> And then every 10 minutes empty bucket for new bucket of Dawn/water. <S> Dirty sponge or dirty water = <S> double the time.
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The right consistency grout will not leave bubbles and voids.
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is it worth upgrading from 14 AWG to 12 AWG I am looking to replace all the OLD 14/2 wiring in my "new to me" house with 12/2 wiring do you believe this is over kill? <Q> In my opinion, no. <S> Additional Capacity <S> If you need the additional capacity on a single circuit, you'd be better to simply replace that single circuit, or add an additional circuit. <S> Additional Outlets <S> If you're adding additional outlets (I'm talking outlets (lighting, receptacle, etc.), not just receptacle outlets), consider installing a new circuit rather than expanding an existing one. <S> Technology Upgrade <S> If you're replacing the wiring anyway (removing old knob & tube, etc.), you'll want to install 20 ampere circuits with 12 AWG conductors where appropriate. <S> Though it still may not make sense to simply install all #12 wire. <S> Free Wire <S> If you have a ton of 12 AWG wire laying around that you got for free, and you just feel like spending hours pulling cable. <S> Go ahead. <A> You have to consider, you are talking about a complete house re-wire. <S> Are the walls all open? <S> If not, do you plant to gut the house? <S> If not, are you aware of the scope of this job?Also, just asking about 12/2 vs 14/2 is hardly accurate. <S> I assume you are just asking about #12 vs #14. <S> There is <S> ABSOLUTELY NOT safety advantage of #12 over #14. <S> DoO not let the "bigger is always better" crowd tell you different. <S> Pulling in the cable is not really an issue at all. <S> What does become a big issue is box fill in switch boxes. <S> Using #12 for lighting, especially with 3-ways, 4-ways, and boxes with dimmers, can very quickly over fill legal box capacity and can make installing dimmers very difficult. <S> Even for lesser receptacle circuits, like bedrooms, #14 is FINE. <S> It's not the number of receptacles on a circuit, it's what's being plugged in. <S> This is why kitchens, bathrooms and laundries require 20A receptacle circuits, where most other rooms do not. <A> I will add a little reality to the conversation. <S> #12 wire is used for circuits that will require more power to them compared to #14. <S> But that is a misnomer too since if you are designing a house wiring system <S> can limit the amount of things that one single circuit does. <S> If a circuit will power an appliance, tools, machinery, garage, or will have heavy constant usage then yes it needs #12/20A. <S> However we are cycling out of heavy power usage. <S> Things are made to be more energy efficient. <S> We have LED and CFL lighting. <S> This trend will only continue. <S> In 20 years we will see appliances that repurpose energy. <S> Honestly I wouldn't care if my house was all #14/15A minus kitchen appliances and heater/AC. <S> If anything having a lower breaking point would tell me as a consumer that I am doing something wrong. <S> For instance I had an old compressor that I should have thrown away years ago... <S> I used it on jobs and in my basement all the time. <S> Basement was all 12/20A. <S> Well first time I tried it in an upstairs bedroom it kicked the breaker within 1 min. <S> I am not saying that having reduced power ability is THE barameter for finding energy hogs or issues. <S> I am saying why not? <S> It is cheaper, just as safe, and easier to work with. <S> And to answer the $ question. <S> Is it worth it resale-wise. <S> NO. <S> I have flipped many houses. <S> Having #12 vs #14 wouldn't get you an extra $5 unless an electrician is buying your house.
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You'll need 12/3 for some circuits and wiring patterns, and larger wire for some other circuits like a dryer or range. You have to consider what will be used on the circuits. Unfortunately almost any electrical upgrade will not add much value to your house compared to the cost associated with it.
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What's the key to sawing straight by hand? Whenever I saw by hand I end up with edges that aren't straight. This includes both the long edge and short edge, or horizontally and vertically. What is the key to sawing straight by hand? Update 1 I've had the same wonky results with a crosscut saw , coping saw , and backsaw . <Q> I can think of two possibilities: 1) <S> you're beginning your cut with the saw out of alignment, or 2) the saw teeth are not set correctly. <S> (" Set " is the distance of the tip of each saw tooth from the center. <S> If you look, you'll notice that the saw teeth are bent slightly away from the saw plate in alternating directions). <S> Let's assume you have already worked out your body geometry <S> and you're holding the saw straight to begin with. <S> It's possible that the saw teeth are set more on one side than the other. <S> This can cause a saw to drift off the intended cut line. <A> Practice. <S> There's just so many variables: type of saw (fine, rip, cross-cut, pull..) <S> condition of saw (are teeth dull, or sharp, is handle loose,..) <S> your posture <S> , stance your grasp of saw type of wood work surface (e.g. is it level in relation to where you're standing) lighting fatigue <A> If possible, clamp a metal straight edge to the inside of the cut line to guide the saw. <S> If your cut curves, it will curve away from the piece. <A> Watch the reflection of the wood on the saw blade, to keep the blade perpendicular; if that is what you are trying to do. <S> If you can't see the reflection on the saw blade, then get a new saw, or polish yours up. <S> Rusty saws don't cut well.
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In the end, IMHO, a lot of it comes down to practice and getting a "feel" of how the wood and the saw respond to one another on each stroke.
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Why won't primer adhere to my walls? We are finally (after 12 years!) getting to painting the last room in our home. It was originally painted with builder's paint, but being a "spare" room, we weren't in a rush to repaint. The room is on the 2nd floor, as are the other bedrooms, and there has never been any moisture or leakage problems. We purchased Kilz primer and it won't adhere to the ceiling or walls! It peels off as you apply it! What do you suggest? This is getting expensive and very frustrating. We had no issues with any of the other rooms. <Q> Both answers so far are correct to a point. <S> Older oil based enamels can be very difficult to cover. <S> NOTE OF CAUTION <S> , many older enamels contain LEAD <S> and should not be sanded without first testing for lead and if positive, proper precautions taken . <S> Lead testing kits can be purchased at most paint departments. <S> Read the directions carefully, but they are really quite easy to use and are very accurate if used properly. <S> As mentioned, cleaning the walls is very important. <S> Use TSP and scrub with something like Scotchbrite pads or green scrubbies. <S> Use an oil based primer or sometimes pigmented shellac (Bulls Eye Primer) works well. <S> They are kinda nasty to use, stink and are caustic, so follow the directions carefully and wear protective eye wear and gloves. <S> If the surface tests negative for lead, sanding may be the best way to prep the surface. <S> Using a DA sander with 100 to 150 grit paper, then cleaning the surface should do the trick. <S> Be careful and Good luck. <A> You said you skim coated the surface and sanded. <S> I assume you used joint compound because you sanded it. <S> You need to get rid of the dust on the surface: So take a wet sponge mop and mop the surface, not too wet. <S> Then I would rent a sprayer and spray the primer coat on. <A> Before applying any new paint on the walls it would be a good idea to wash down the walls with a hot water solution with TSP (tri-sodium phosphate) which should be available at your local hardware store. <S> This will help remove any old oily grime and dirt on the walls that can keep paint from adhering. <S> The TSP wash also helps remove some of the gloss surface of old paint which can also help with new paint adhesion. <S> To save effort initially you can try a small area before committing to the whole paint job. <S> If you find that the TSP scrub down is not enough to fully solve the problem then you may want to lightly sand the old surface to roughen it up. <S> I would sand before the TSP wash as the this will help to remove any remaining sanding residue from the wall. <S> Note that TSP solution is fairly caustic and can be quite hard on your hands and skin. <S> Make sure to use some good quality "rubber" gloves that have cuffs that cover well up past your wrists. <A> I am going to throw this out there because I have run into it more than a few times with older homes. <S> If you previous paint was an oil based paint then you need to get an oil based primer. <S> You can go kilz or latex over that <S> but you will need the first coat to be oil based primer.
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If you still have an adhesion problem, there are liquid sandpaper prep liquids available that are good to use if you have lead based paint or high gloss finishes.
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Can I cool 540 sq. ft. with a single A/C unit? I have a small apartment - about 540sq ft. The layout: Click for larger view The red square would be the internal unit, and to the left and right I have 2 rooms. I also have a 6 month old little girl, so I wouldn't want a unit in her room. I'm thinking that I could have a single unit, that would reasonably cool both rooms indirectly. Will it be pointless? Should I go for a multi-split? More info: The doors stay open most of the time, and the windows are only on the right side of the building (as you see it in the picture). Each room also has a balcony, and that takes most of the sunlight. The sun enters the room usually after 4 pm during the summer. The average temperature in the summer is around 90F, but can go up to 105F for stretches of 4-5 days. <Q> Someone would need a lot of detailed information about your apartment to determine the actual cooling load. <S> Even assuming you have a properly sized air con unit, it seems silly to me to spend good money on an air con system and then need to rely on box fans to get it to work right. <S> You basically should have a fan/coil unit in each room that you require to be kept at a comfortable temperature. <S> If you do not, one room will inevitably be too cold and the other too hot. <S> But on the average I suppose you could claim your apartment is comfortable ;) <A> I assume you're talking about a ductless mini-split AC system. <S> Some more information will be required to provide a good answer as to the total required cooling capacity. <S> The answer will depend very much on the climate and aspects of the building like number/location of windows, sun/shade, etc. <S> Once you have an appropriately sized unit, then the issue will be moving the cool air around the apartment. <S> If you are OK with leaving doors open, and perhaps using some portable fans or ceiling fans to aid air flow, then I think you could potentially make the whole place comfortable. <S> If doors between rooms are closed, then the temperature will not equilibrate as well. <A> Yes but you are going to have some variance between rooms. <S> Maybe by as much as 5-10 degrees <S> F. <S> I would suggest having a way to get the cold air out of the main room and into the others - basic box fans would work. <S> Also subrooms will need to be closed of sunlight to reduce temp variance during the day.
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Also you have to understand that if you want the subrooms very comfortable then you may have to have unit running a lot and the main room a bit chilly.
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Will I have to install new cables when converting from a SD CCTV system to HD? After a breakin soon after moving into our house, we used our cash reserve to improve security. One of these updates was an 8-channel DVR with four external CCTV cameras. The DVR exposes the cameras over TCP/IP, but I'm going to assume it will require replacement as well. The cameras are "good" for outdoor standard definition closed circuit cameras, but with the use of some HD IP cameras for other purposes (bird monitoring, etc.) we've decided to improve the resolution of the security cameras both for identification purposes as well as being able to tolerate some loss of image detail with the use of wider-angle lenses. These are currently cabled with twinned power and video cables that are broken out at the outdoor cameras, with power and coax (single-cable BNC) video broken out indoors. When replacing the cameras, will I need to replace the cabling (assuming I don't go cat5/5e) or should "decent" HD cameras be able to reuse the same video feed? I'll also be rewiring the power injectors because the installer ganged a bunch of cheap wall-warts onto a power strip, so I can increase power within reason. Or, should I use the existing cable as fishtape and run new cabling? <Q> Coaxial cables are good for pretty much any resolution. <S> So a full HD security camera will probably be fine over your existing coax. <S> After all, your HD television signal probably arrives via coax to your TV or STB. <S> What you will need at the other end of the cable is a receiver that can record full-hd images at a reasonable FPS over the number of channels you have active. <S> If you have HD cameras and a recorder that can record your HD images, then you should be good to go. <A> Most newer HD security camera systems are IP based, and would require Cat5/5e to be run. <S> If you want to keep your old cables, then make sure the new cameras are analog and not digital/IP. <A> These camera will need to be HD-TVI analog cameras and you will need to replace your DVR with a HD-TVI DVR. <S> You most likely will not be able to use the existing cable as a "fish tape" as this cable should have been secured with staples inside the walls if cabling was installed at time of building construction and not a retrofit. <S> IP cameras have to ability to do much higher resolution VS hd-tvi cameras. <S> A hd-tvi camera and 5mp ip camera will look about the same on a 22" monitor but <S> when you zoom in on the image you will get much better resolution/image quality with the ip camera (assuming you have a high quality ip nvr) <S> For ip cameras they should be POE meaing you will only need 1 cat5 to camera and no power cable. <S> For hd-tvi power supply you should install a CCTV specific power supply. <S> You will need to confirm camera's power requirement of 12v dc or 24v ac and get the proper power supply. <S> Something like this http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=6875
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Yes, you can use the existing coaxial cable for "HD" cameras. If you want to upgrade to IP cameras you will have to replace/install cat5 wiring for the cameras.
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How can I thaw a frozen exterior drain quickly? I have a driveway that is angled down slightly towards my house. About two feet before the garage there are two long drains that cover most of the drive way. Right now one is 100% frozen and the other is 1/2 frozen. I am getting so much water build up that it's going into my garage. Does any one have any idea on either: How I can remove the water from my driveway (I said wet vac it but I can't seem to find anyone with a wet vac in my area), or How to thaw the drains? The drain that is fully frozen I think is also frozen under part of the driveway where it would travel to exit so I'm not sure how anyone would thaw that. Also any advice on how to get rid of 3 inch thick ice really fast would be very helpful as well. <Q> You can pick up a cheap water pump that you can use to remove the water. <S> If you have a Harbor Freight in your area, they have a good selection of cheap pumps. <S> If your drain is metal, you can use a brush torch with a 15 pound propane tank to help remove the ice. <S> Use it to help break up the ice. <S> It will probably not be efficient to melt all of the ice. <S> Warm water may help break up the frozen water in the drain pipe. <A> Provided the water is no higher than a few inches, you could go to Lowes and buy 10 or 15 bags of sand and dam up the garage entrance. <S> After the ice in the drains melts, stack the bags near the garage for future use. <S> Tip: <S> Back the car right up to where you want the sand to make unloading easier. <A> Rock salt, or any ice melter, won't work if the ice is more than an inch deep. <S> If the ice is thick, the salt will just melt through and the ice will freeze again; harder. <S> I learned this because they were putting rock salt on the ski slopes at Sochi to make them harder and faster. <S> I would actually use that propane blowtorch as the first pass. <S> I clean the ice off my cement stairs with one. <S> But, yes, you must be careful. <A> Hopefully you don't have 90's in the drain lines. <A> I have a driveway exactly like yours. <S> Only with a smaller drain. <S> Submersible pumps and long garden hoses. <S> Long, outdoor extension cords. <S> Find a place/s to pump water where it will not make flood situation worse. <S> I aim one in backyard away from house and the other in front yard away from house. <A> I just solved this problem with a 6" drill bit. <S> Just drill through the ice, making sure to aim the bit for the holes in the drain so the water can escape through the ice. <S> Once it is clear of water you can use salt to remove remaining ice.
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If you can get to the open end of the drain you can use a cheap pump and a hose to force hot water up the drain line to thaw the ice.
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