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Drywall over plaster with furring strips So I just removed staple on ceiling tiles from my curling to find they were done on top of plaster, my questions are: 1) is there any fear in any case of the drywall adding to much weight to the ceiling? This house was built in 1908. 2) when installing the drywall do I attach along the furs or along the studs or where the fur overlaps the studs? The old tile where 12x12 so the furs are 1 ft spread if that makes any difference. <Q> Hanging drywall over old plaster is very common. <S> If the existing strapping is securely fastened to the ceiling, you should be able to hang sheetrock. <S> I use 3/8" rock all the time over plaster walls and ceilings. <S> The weight is not an issue. <S> It certainly would not do any harm to find the joists and add a screw into the strapping to be sure it is secure. <S> The only time you might have a problem is when the strapping is only connected to lathes, and if the weight of the rock held only by lathes may sag if the lathe nails are not secure into the joists. <S> Good luck, go for it! <A> Leave your firring strips in place, but make sure they are fastened tightly to the joists at the intersecting points. <S> Plaster as a rule is 3/4" thick including the lath, although it can vary, especially in turn of the century homes. <S> The firring should be 3/4" thick too. <S> You will want a minimum of 1" penetration into the framing to secure the firring to the joists, so 2 1/2" to 3" screws should be ideal. <S> You will not want to go over kill on the length for you may hit something in the ceiling you may not want to. <S> As I mentioned before 1" into the framing will hold anything in the way of sheetrock you install. <S> Pilot the screws through the firring only will help. <S> After that you can install the sheetrock any way you choose. <S> I have run it with the framing, I have run it across the framing. <S> Either way will hold fine, though some people may beg to differ. <S> But hanging drywall is not rocket science. <S> Set your screws the proper depth, which is critical. <S> As note, now is a good time to update the wiring in the ceiling PROPERLY, but you may need to open walls to do so. <S> You will need to find the joists to some degree, although the lath is capable of supporting SOME of the weight, I would not rely on it solely. <S> This would take approx. <S> 2" screws to hold this up. <S> If the plaster is for the most part intact, except for a number of small holes from the nails, you can use 1/4" drywall to overlay the plaster. <S> For my opinion, I would stick with going directly over the re-secured firring strips with 1/2" sheetrock. <A> If you decide to drywall over the ceiling, I would suggest to use one the new lightweight drywall panels. <S> Maybe more to save your back, then the ceiling. <S> I have some limited personal experience with homes built in the early 20th century, and have some things to take into consideration: The joists and ceiling framing in houses built in the early 20th century are undersized by today's standards. <S> This is with my experience with Philadelphia row homes at least. <S> You want to evaluate this possibility along with other sources of load placed on the joists since the home's construction, such as drywall added to plaster walls on the second floor, and multiple layers of flooring. <S> I don't think that you would have catastrophic failure, but if the joists are undersized, and they sag, you may want to consider taking the plaster down and sistering the joists. <S> This will allow you to fix any wiring and add nice things like recessed lighting. <S> In my case, someone had already drywalled over the plaster, so I decided to take up the floorboards on the second floor. <S> If you do have sagging, and you do not sister the joists from below, you will have to do it from the top to fix any problems (bounciness, sagging).
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You may want to check, using a stud finder to assure yourself that the strapping is attached to the underlying floor or ceiling joists. If the ceiling height is tight, but I think you may have high ceilings anyway, you can remove the firing strips, which will let a lot of plaster fall, (not good) and screw the drywall straight to the ceiling. The floor will likely not support the additional weight from self leveling underlayment, and you will not be able to take out any bounciness without sistering the joists. There are special drive tips that govern the depth for you.
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Does my crawl space need venting I have a crawl space under my main entrance of the house. It's about 3' tall. I added a heat duct because the floor at the entrance was always cold. So my question is do I need to vent the crawl space because I added the heat vent. Even if I just cut a hole in the door leading to the crawl space and put a vent cover there. Thanks <Q> Best practice varies with the climate . <S> If you open up venting between the basement and the dirt crawl, cover the dirt crawl with a moisture barrier. <S> Consider instead sealing the crawl entrance from the finished basement air, and opening a vent to the outdoors. <S> Mechanically controlled by humidity, it would offer the best of both cold and warm weather performance. <S> For research on this topic see, Moisture Solution Becomes Efficiency Bonanza in Southeastern United States , PDF by Bruce Davis and Cyrus Dastur, AdvancedEnergy.org <S> -Crawl Spaces <A> Is there insulation in the floor? <S> There should be. <S> There should be a vent but that has nothing to do with adding a new heat duct. <S> A vent is going to make the floor even colder. <S> Vents are normally opened in spring and closed in winter. <S> So you should add 2 on opposite walls <S> come spring. <A> Under floor ventilation of wood floors over earth is required by any model code to manage moisture from the earth molding and/or rotting the wood structure. <S> As Justin K indicated, it does make the underfloor area colder, this is why many people block off the vents in the Winter. <S> IMO, if you have adequate floor (and duct) insulation the temperature gained only makes a small difference in energy costs. <S> If the blockage causes moisture issues it will be a false savings. <S> How serious any moisture problem could be varies greatly by location, climate, soil conditions, and if the earth is covered with a vapor barrier or not. <S> Regardless, you do need vents.
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Seasonally block the vents if you like, but only if you're sure it will not cause moisture issues. In SOME areas you may be allowed to put a fan to the outdoors.
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Renovating Crawlspace with Poured Concrete Floor My newly-purchased 1950s home has a below-grade crawlspace with a poorly-poured concrete floor. Specifically, it is very coarse and looks like it was poured and spread with a garden rake. In some places, there are large holes that seem to go down to the dirt. Not good. Also on the list of "not good": we have slightly elevated levels of radon in the home. Ultimately, we want to use the crawlspace as a clean, dry, conditioned space that is an extension of the basement used for storage. My plan is to remove the door that separates the crawlspace from the basement, then have my HVAC guy run a supply line or two to the crawl. The supplies supply conditioned air, and the open entry to the crawl will serve as a return. I am also going to seal the outside walls of the space with insulation - but I will save the insulation details for another post. In order to make the space clean and usable for storage, I obtained a quote for a poured concrete floor. The contractor's intent is to pour a couple of inches of concrete right over the existing "concrete" floor without chipping the old floor out, and then trowel/level it nicely. My questions are: Any concerns with pouring concrete right over the existing "concrete" floor? Assuming that I am OK to proceed with pouring over the existing floor, do I need to stipulate that the contractor lay down a continuous sheet of polyethylene as a vapor barrier? To be clear, if I have the contractor do this, this poly sheet will sit between the old "concrete" and the newly-poured floor. Or is the vapor barrier a lost-cause (or, worse, going to cause a problem) if I do not remove the old floor? I haven't lived in the house very long, but it looks dry (contractors have agreed). Also, for the record, I do have some water supplies and drains that run through the crawl to the upper floor. That said, how important would it be to install a floor drain? If I were to have a plumber install a drain, would this drain flow into the sewer? To do this, I think that I would have to have the plumber bore a hole through the foundation wall, which sounds like a huge job. So unless it's highly recommended or a code issue, I would rather skip it. Regarding the radon, I am going to have the concrete contractor install a vent pipe into the floor (both the new floor and even down through the old floor) for sub-slab suction. My radon mitigation contractor will connect this vent pipe to the radon mitigation system. I would love to hear any comments from the experts. Thanks in advance! -Frank <Q> It sounds like you already have a couple of experts working with you. <S> Without seeing the proposed new space, I can only speak to a couple of your concerns. <S> There is no easy way to install a sub slab vapor barrier without removing the old slab. <S> You do not want to sandwich plastic between the old and new concrete if you are going to only put in an inch or so of concrete to level the space. <S> I'm sure your contractor will prep the old slab by cleaning etc to assure a good bond with the new concrete. <S> One or two inches of new concrete should be fine, especially in a space with low, lightweight traffic. <S> I see no reason for a drain in this area unless excessive leakage or standing water is a potential problem. <S> If radon mitigation is required, the collection pipes should be installed under the existing slab via cutting trenches and tied into your venting before you pour the new concrete. <A> Just to circle back on this... <S> my radon contractor stipulated that a polyethylene layer is needed for radon mitigation, and my crawlspace contractor agreed. <S> He then dug a trench, put gravel down, and put slotted drain tile pipe in the trench covered by a silt sock. <S> The drain tile pipe was then connected to a 3" schedule 40 PVC "T" that the radon contractor will tap into. <S> And all of this, along with the remainder of the old concrete floor, is covered by the poly barrier mentioned above. <S> They poured cement right over the poly. <S> My crawlspace contractor spotted a couple of foundation cracks - for good measure, I had him do an injection-repair on these. <A> Concrete can always sit on old concrete. <S> Will it bond properly? <S> Not without some sort of connection piece. <S> We use rebar "L"s to properly bond the new concrete to the old. <S> Drill <S> about 3-4 inches down into old concrete, insert short side of "L" and other side of L should be a little off the floor. <S> I have seen others use rebar with mesh kits and a few different methods. <S> No matter what chemicals these guys use the concrete will never "bond" <S> so you need to have a common stabilizer.
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The crawlspace contractor broke the concrete in a pitchfork-shape (to get good radon coverage and get around some concrete footings that are supporting the steel I-beam). Again, your radon contractor who can see the space should be able to advise you properly and make all the connections to your existing system. We are going to try and keep the space waterproof without installing a drain.
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What type and thickness of glass to use for floor over stairs? We have created a new loft room and over the already built stairs, the covering over the deepest part of the stairs is a plywood covering. I would like to replace this with glass that will be tough and strong enough to stand on. For this purpose should I use a special type of glass, if so which? Also what would be the recommended thickness of glass to use? This will not be a regular thoroughfare just needs to take the weight of a person. The last question is how should this be mounted, with glue/silicone/putty or screwed/bolted to a wooden frame? <Q> Not sure where you want to put the glass. <S> Landing? <S> Tread? <S> What span is it between studs? <S> 16"?You are probably looking at a 3/4" laminated tempered glass. <S> They will know what the best product at the best price would be. <A> I would check out the possibility of using Lexan, it can be drilled if needed for securing, but you would need to talk to their engineers to figure the thickness that would work. <S> I think with a 16" center framing that 3/4"thick would work, but I can't say for sure since I am not engineer. <S> The reason I spec Lexan, is to remove the possibility of the small chance something metallic will drop and shatter the tempered glass. <S> That is all it would take. <S> Otherwise, I have seen tempered glass do some incredible things, but holding up to a small ding left by the corner of something hard is not one of them.... <A> Use bulletproof glass. <S> It's designed to withstand stress. <S> Don't use laminated glass. <S> It is susceptible to chipping. <S> Bulletproof isn't because it's not actual glass; it's more like plexiglass or Lexan™. <A> Having said that you could use glass tile and a clear silicon adhesive.
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Using glass on a walking surface is not recommended due to slipping. Your best bet would be to call your local glass shop.
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At what temperature does a WiFi thermostat stop sending a signal to the router? I recently purchased and installed a Honeywell WP6500 WiFi thermostat and thanks to Stack Exchange, got it up and running. I have a house in New Hampshire, which I use occasionally during the winter. I do not like to keep heat on in the house all winter as I may not be there for 2 to 3 weeks. When I set the thermostat to maintain the house at 41°F it works fine. However, if I set it to the heat off position, at some point it stops communicating with the router, and I cannot turn the system on or raise the temperature. It can get 5 to 10°F in the house. I have tried on many occasions to get some answers from Honeywell as to, is there a temperature at which the thermostat, stops communicating with the router, and if there is, can it be overridden. <Q> This is the temperature range within which the manufacturer states that the device will function correctly. <S> For consumer electronics like these, it's typically from 0°C (32°F) up to about 60 <S> °C (140°F) to 70°C (158°F). <S> So if you turn the heat to off, the ambient temperature in the house will drop below that range, and the thermostat will stop working properly. <S> There should be a specifications page in the manuals for the thermostat and router that will tell you their minimum operating temperatures. <S> Keep your house above the upper of those temperatures and you should be OK. <A> I highly doubt that Honeywell would design the system on purpose to disconnect from the network based on the ambient temperature (BUT: I may be wrong about this!). <S> That said, it may be that either your router or the thermostat are starting to have technical difficulties if the temperature drops too low. <S> If you have one lying around, try a different router, or maybe it's enough to just change the channel setting on the one you have. <S> Or move it closer to the thermostat, even if it's just for testing by running a long cable through the house. <S> Some background: <S> Both the router and the thermostat need to have a chip inside (called clock source) that gives them a reference for generating the ~2.4 GHz signal to communicate. <S> Kind-of like a metronome that a piano player uses to play at the right bpm. <S> The frequency of the reference signal that these chips generate is dependent on the temperature of the chip, which in turn depends on the ambient temperature in your house. <S> Depending on how cheap the chip is, this change in reference might be enough for the two devices to no longer be able to talk to each other reliably. <S> Think of slowly turning the dial on your radio off the station that you are listening to. <S> You might still hear music for a little while, but eventually it will cut out. <S> If you find out it's the router, one thing you can do is stick it in a cardboard box. <S> That will trap the heat that the router generates inside and keep it a little warmer. <S> Just make sure that it doesn't overheat when it's actually warm in the house. <S> Unfortunately, if it turns out to be the thermostat's fault, you can't stick that in a box, since then it won't be able to measure the outside temperature any more. <S> But swapping out your router (for a cheaper one) might still fix it. <S> At what temperature the system stops working depends on the exact build of the involved devices. <A> I have a Honeywell <S> Wi-Fi thermostat that quits communicating at 55 degrees. <S> It is repeatable and verifiable. <S> All other functions of the stat work fine. <S> I have it programmed to ramp up the temperature on a set schedule and that works <S> but as soon as it drops below 55 it stops talking to Honeywell's server. <S> It still maintains the connection with the router and can be successfully pinged from the router. <S> As far as I am concerned this thing is junk. <S> The only thing good about it is it is half the cost of the other Wi-Fi stats.
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You're looking for a specification called the operating temperature range of the thermostat or router or both.
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Paint is scraping and wiping off too easily I recently painted some of my house with Glidden Duo eggshell (primer included). Days after painting, my wife informed me that the paint was wiping off and scraping off extremely easy (just the new paint- you can see the old paint underneath). This is still happening after about a month. I've never seen this happen before. The paint underneath was a Valspar latex eggshell and was put on about 7 years ago. I wiped down the walls before painting. Any ideas why this might be happening and what I can do next time to prevent it? <Q> It looks like other people have had similar problems with this paint. <S> Most modern latex paints will stick to glossy undercoats pretty well, but it never hurts to rough up the underlying surface with a 100-150 grit sand paper. <S> I've also heard several painters say that the best prep they ever did was wiping everything down with a 1:10 solution of Clorox Bleach and water. <S> Anytime I paint anything, I will run over the whole surface with a scraper just to get anything that comes up easily. <S> I hope that helps! <A> Could be be bad paint, could be bad prep. <S> Is the paint coming off everywhere <S> or just some places? <S> In and around the kitchen walls develop a small coating of grease if you don't have a good range hood that you use every time you cook. <S> Even when you do. <S> Good to clean walls before painting other rooms too. <S> Elaborate <S> on what you mean by "wiped down the walls". <S> Did you just run a damp rag over them? <S> Did you use any cleaning solvents? <S> Some cleaning solvents like TSP also need to be rinsed off. <S> Others like the TSP substitutes don't need to be rinsed. <S> Painted walls have a bit of texture from the roller stipple <S> so you need to scrub a bit to get down into it. <S> Paint over one mediocre paint with another without proper prep <S> and there's a greater chance that things can go wrong. <S> I hate painting <S> so I always buy the best paint that I can (usually one of Benjamin Moore's better lines) and spend a lot of time on prepping the walls so I don't have to paint again. <S> Try calling Glidden to see what they have to say. <S> Chances are that they'll try and blame it on the prep (rightfully or not) but you might get some good info. <A> I would remove a section of the new paint with a scraper, then sand it with 150 grit sandpaper, then reapply the paint. <S> After it dries I'd see if it adhered well. <S> If not, I would blame the paint and contact Glidden. <S> Otherwise, I'd remove all the paint, sand, and repaint. <A> Surface prep is everything with paint. <S> Cleaned and lightly sanded is usually adequate. <S> Is the paint just chipping or coming off in small bits or is it coming loose in huge sheets? <S> Is the problem in multiple rooms or just one? <S> These are things you will want to know before you call Glidden. <S> I suspect it's more of a case of improper surface prep. <S> Things you can do before re-painting, scrape what you can off the wall or sand it off. <S> Then prime as a totally separate coat, no paint and primer in one(consider an oil base primer, but that may not be necessary). <S> Give the primer a few days to cure, scuff sand, then paint.
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It could be a bad batch of paint, or a strange interaction between the old paint and the new, but I think it's more likely that the wall just needed a little more preparation than is normal.
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What should I do about a gap between a quartz countertop and backsplash? I had new quartz kitchen counters installed yesterday. On one side by the cooktop there is no gap between the counter and backslash. The other side, by and behind the sink, was left with a gap between the counter and backslash! One side looks great and other looks unfinished! My concern is that water can spill easily from the faucets to that area and seep behind into the gap and cause water damage or mold to grow in the pine wood cabinet below. How do I resolve the gap issue? Should I grout the gap using a color close to the (tan) quartz? Should I caulk it with kitchen/bathroom caulk? Or using clear, or white, preferably tan, silicone to fill gap? I would have to then do all lines between the counter and backslash in all areas to accomplish a consistent look: would that be OK? <Q> Did the countertop installers also install the backsplash? <S> If so call them back and have them correct the issue. <S> That seam should be sealed for appearance and to prevent any water from getting in there. <S> If the backsplash was already there it could be that they did a poor job leveling that section of countertop or the backsplash <S> wasn't level. <S> Either way, call them in to look at it and correct it. <A> The common solutions are to either float the wall so that it meets the backsplash (usually before the countertop/backsplash is installed) or to caulk the gap with silicone. <S> I'd wager caulking is your best bet, at this point, and it's neither difficult nor expensive, you should be able to do it yourself in an hour or so. <S> If the gap is more than the width of a pencil (1/4 to 3/8 of an inch), you might have trouble because the caulk will shrink a little, pulling away from the wall and/or backsplash. <S> Even in that case, I'd still caulk and see what happens because it's not hard to pull the caulk out if you have to try something else. <S> If you haven't caulked anything yourself, you should practice, as it requires a little precision to get a nice result. <S> Hope that helps! <S> EDIT: <S> Misreading the question leads to entirely unhelpful answers ;-) <S> It is not common to have an unfilled gap between the countertop and the backsplash. <S> That being said, you can still squirt some caulk in there to keep the water out until you have the time/money/etc to fix it for real. <S> Wish I could be more help :-/ <A> The folks who did my kitchen quartz (natural brown and beige colors) counter-top ran a bead of white silicone caulk between the backsplash (drywall painted light blue) and the counter-top. <S> It looks really nice to us. <S> I watched the guy do the caulking and when he had caulked about six or seven feet he used a squirt bottle to mist the caulk. <S> Then he pulled down the entire length with his finger. <S> That smoothed the caulk surface as well as forcing it down into the gap.
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Might just need to run a bead of caulk and they'll have the right color to work with the stone you selected. It's not unusual for there to be a gap between a backsplash and the wall, especially if the wall is uneven or made of something irregular like brick.
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How can I fuse galvanized sheet metal with a circular bottom together so that it is water tight? I want to make a large circular pot out of sheet metal that can hold water. How should I construct it so that it has a circular bottom and ensure it is leak-proof. Boiling water will be poured into this pot. Thank you <Q> Soldering is the usual method, but without metal-forming equipment I'd guess you don't have, that's not going to be a likely (or affordable) road to success for someone with no experience, for any value of large. <S> Buy a galvanised washtub or trashcan is the direct, simple route to a watertight circular metal "pot" over a wide range of sizes. <S> Move into "stock watering tanks" for a larger size, though most of those are more oval. <S> Without exhaustive shopping around: 17 gallons, $30: 31 gallons, $19, with lid: This one is 477 gallons, circular, and costs $219. <S> Now I've gone and started to think that would make a nice country-style hot tub, and the price is so right... <A> Perhaps pop rivet the sides and the bottom together at 2" intervals, and let the solder flow. <S> Yes DO be careful of any fumes may arise, but the galvanized metal may not get that hot enough to fume to get the solder to flow. <S> Still, something to be watchful of... <S> Back in the day they used to solder galvanized downspouts and gutters together. <S> I seen this from all the houses I worked on over the years. <A> You can weld it but DO NOT breathe in the poisonous vapors produced when welding galvanized steel.
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I would think that soldering would make a good seal provided you could keep the 2 surfaces tight to one another.
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Accidentally Touching One Lead Of A Multimeter While Other Is In Electrical Outlet If I have a multimeter, and I put one lead in the hot slot of an electrical outlet, will accidentally touching the other lead complete a circuit and electrocute me? Likewise, if instead I put one lead in the neutral slot of an electrical outlet, will accidentally touching the other lead complete a circuit and electrocute me? <Q> If the multimeter is set to read voltage, it will have a very high-resistance, so if everything is working correctly touching the other lead will not shock you. <S> If it's set to read current, it will have almost 0-resistance, so touching the other lead would be equivalent to touching the bare wire. <S> Thus, having the multimeter plugged into the hot-slot and touching the other lead will shock you <S> (but, having it plugged into the neutral won't) <A> If you have one lead in hot, yes, touching the other lead would complete the circuit and shock you. <A> No. <S> It wouldn't electrocute you unless you were touching ground. <S> I found this out when I was stationed in Taiwan years ago and some locals installed ceiling fans for us. <S> I kept waiting for them to tell me when to turn off the breaker, but they never did. <S> When they came down out of the attic I asked them how they didn't get electrocuted touching hot wires. <S> They told me that they didn't because they were not in contact with ground. <S> But I've never tested this myself: still don't trust touching a hot wire. <S> Better safe than sorry.
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If everything is wired correctly, you would not be shocked in the neutral scenario, however swapping hot/neutral is a pretty common error, so it is not a given that you would want to assume is correct.
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How do I install fire blocking while finishing a basement? In Colorado, the building code asks for a fire block when finishing a basement. I know this goes against the out walls (foundation). I've seen 2x4 and OSB used: which is better? And how does the OSB get installed? <Q> OSB would be easier and faster, it gets installed BEFORE the top plate goes up. <S> If you plan to use 2X4 framing set 1" away from the wall or if you follow the detail provided in another post, you can still use it as fireblocking. <S> When you layout for your top plate and chalk your line for setting the top plate by, before you do, measure over to sill plate that the joists set on for the dimension to rip the OSB. <S> that way you will always have it as a reference. <S> My carpenters had ripped the plywood wide enough to cover the line to supposedly follow it but when the wall was finished framed it had a 1/4" bow in it. <S> Set the plywood, then the top plate, and build the rest of the wall. <A> My guess is that your basement is not fully below grade. <S> Meaning you only need to insulate the area that is above grade - can maybe dip a foot below. <S> I frame - add in 2x4 crosses a little below grade. <S> Stuff Roxul above top plate and in the "square" <S> I have created below - <S> I make sure it is stuffed <S> so I make the piece a little too big for opening. <S> Building inspectors have been very happy with this in my area. <S> It is cheap, you are using usually left-overs for your crosses, you aren't overinsulating, and the is plenty of breathing room for the outside walls. <S> Also if you have to make electrical or plumbing holes in top plates my building inspectors prefer Roxul stuffing over any sort of foam (actually they won't pass this). <S> This all differs by municipality so talk to your inspector. <A> I use 5/8 drywall over and under and foam around the holes for working and plumbing. <S> Quick, easy to score and cut in 4 foot sections. <S> Works like a charm
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I would suggest to rip the OSB a little shy of the chalk line.
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Will running out of fuel oil damage my tank? My home heating oil is very low. I have 2 questions: 1. If I run out of heating oil can my tank/ furnace become damaged? 2. Can I use diesel fuel until I am ready to fill my tank? <Q> You are likely to clog your filter, so plan on replacing it if you do run out (it may be good to proactively replace it if you run very low, even if you don't run completely out). <S> After replacing the filter, you'll need to press the reset button, and there may be a procedure to bleed air out of the line (I've seen the service tech do this on ours after the system shut down due to extreme cold clogging the filter with gelled fuel). <S> In other words, you'll need a service call after you run out, unless you are comfortable maintaining your system yourself. <S> You are paying road taxes that will increase the cost, but in an emergency, that's probably not an issue (I keep a couple six gallon plastic Jerry cans exactly for this contingency because we have a driveway that is sometimes not passable with an oil truck in the winter). <S> Edit: <S> a web search on "difference between fuel oil and diesel" seems to suggest that they are mostly interchangeable, with some minor exceptions -- a cetane additive may (or may not) be added to road diesel in some circumstances, but should not affect your oil burner negatively. <S> Kerosene may be added to fuel oil (not sure why), but often isn't, so diesel would again be an OK substitute. <S> Here's one of the sites I read: <S> What is the difference between home heating oil / fuel oil and diesel? <A> Standard diesel fuel and home heating oil are basically the same thing. <S> Sometimes kerosene is added to home heating fuel to keep it from gelling. <S> I actually put the cetane additive into my heating fuel for this reason due to my tank being above ground. <S> It won't hurt anything to put 10 gallons of diesel into your tank to keep you going until you can get fuel delivered. <A> When I had an oil-fired heating system, I ran the tank dry on many occasions with no problem. <S> The outlet of my tanks was not at the bottom of the tank but maybe an inch higher. <S> This kept sediment and water out of the filter. <S> The only problem I had with one system (and only one) was that the line needed to be bled. <S> This was a time consuming (up to 30 minutes), messy and smelly process. <S> This system had a long length of pipe horizontally from tank to boiler/furnace. <S> Other systems (perhaps with shorter runs and more of a slope) had no need for bleeding, they just fired up immediately after the tank was refilled. <S> You might be able to use diesel - I'd check with the boiler/furnace manufacturer. <A> I'm a homeowner who rents to tenants in a two family unit, for me this has been a learning experience since I am a first time homeowner, this happened to me <S> a while back, one of my tenants in the first floor used to add low quantities of oil to the tank just to pass by the harsh cold winter days, in the long run when the tank was left empty <S> the remaining oil became sluggish, the sluggish oil ate through the metal of the bottom of the tank, when the next winter started to get freezing temperatures he went ahead and added his usual amount of oil to get by again, the oil tank started to leak big time from the bottom, the oil company was called immediately, they came in and they had to unscrew the tank from the wall and lift it to an slanted position so the oil would go to the other end <S> , a new oil tank had to be purchased, when the old tank was cut in half all the sluggish oil was there accumulated. <S> I was lucky that I happened to be around when that happened <S> otherwise there would've been a flood of oil.
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My understanding is that diesel fuel has additives that are not needed for an oil burner, but will do no harm to the system. If you run out of fuel, your burner will shut down, as there is a safety system that disables it if there is no flame when the burner is running.
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Can I install a receptacle outlet below a window? I need to add a receptacle outlet to an existing line. I will run the line from an existing receptacle outlet. Is it okay to locate the new outlet below an existing window? <Q> Yes. <S> As long as you have part of the wall under your window (your window doesn't go to the floor) <S> then it is treated like any other wall in your house. <A> However, my house in Calgary built in 1997 has several recepticals under windows. <A> I just realized after commenting this is a very old question I referenced NEC 2017 below <S> but this info has not changed in decades tried to edit but two slow. <S> If there is a wall below the window this space is included in the distance between outlets and depending on other outlet locations one may be required under the window (think picture window) <S> dmoore is correct that the NEC is ok with outlets under a window and may even require them.+ note <S> NEC exhibit 210.26 shows a fixed glass panel 2' wide with an outlet (any space <S> greater than 2' requires an outlet). <S> 210.52.2 specifys the space measured along the floor and around corners unbroken by doorways , and similar openings...
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Under widows does not appear to be a useable wall space for a receptical in The City of Calgary's current homeowners electrical wiring guidelines.
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Can furring strips be installed diretly to a cinderblock wall not in a basement? I've tried finding a definitive answer but it's far more common for folks to have block walls in basements that need to be furred out, so the information deals primarily with that and I believe this is different. Problem: The original owner of the home I just purchased used a combination of 1/2" and 3/4" high-grade plywood as wall coverings. Some of it was furred out to accommodate a pocket door and electricity, but the entire section of the perimeter (exterior) cinderblock wall has the wood nailed/glued directly to it. The wood has no signs of water damage of any kind and the wall's exterior has vinyl siding. Plans: Ultimately I want to go with drywall. I plan to install furring strips to attach the drywall to. Originally I looked into the $.99 - 1x2s for price and space saving, but I imagine I'll break half of them when I start screwing the board up. Same goes for the 2x2. In addition, they aren't treated, but neither are the 1x3 strips I've seen being recommended (again in a different context). I'm now thinking of using pressure treated 2x4s mounted wide-side-down just for piece of mind and plenty of space for shallow j-boxes. I would mount them 24" on center with either tap-cons or ramset. I plan to have the assembly entirely held by the wall. Question? Are there any moisture considerations when mounting furring strips to a cinderblock wall not in a basement but with an exterior side? I've read it's always an issue mounting untreated wood to concrete or other porous material, but he amount of time - about 25 years - and the lack of damage make me question this. Are there any other processes that can be used to accomplish this if it is a problem (i.e.; sealing the wall, painting the wood with a special product, etc.)? <Q> This is related to your question, but something I felt like commenting on: since your CMU exterior walls are covered up with vinyl siding, you have a perfect opportunity to insulate your house, which should give you quite a lot of bang for buck given that it currently has none. <S> Remove the vinyl siding (carefully), cover the CMUs with 3+ inches of rigid foam or mineral wool boards, and then re-install the siding right over that. <S> The difference in comfort and utility bills should be dramatic. <A> You need to decide what you are hanging the drywall on. <S> Choices: <S> Ramset framing members of whatever depth and economy you want to the concrete block. <S> Light load shells perhaps. <S> Tapconning on all those framing members seems expensive to me. <S> I believe this is your main suggestion. <S> Adhesive framing members to the concrete block. <S> I wouldn't recommend this. <S> You could have trouble getting a good bond and glue lifespans for the cheap stuff <S> can be very disappointing. <S> Build a standalone wall <S> (I think this is what DMoore is suggesting) with a top and bottom plate and 'studs'. <S> The studs could be 2x2s, 2x3s, 2x4s, etc. <S> Considerations: <S> Really? <S> You don't want to slip even a 1/2" of poly iso foam board into this system. <S> R-value has diminishing return but when you have nothing, the ROI is great (if you spend money to heat or cool the structure) <S> What climate are you in? <S> It may be desirable to try to prevent interior vapor (is there a shower? <S> cooking facilities?) <S> from entering the wall system. <S> I'd suggest you look at new smart vapor barriers <S> but I'm guessing they are outside your project budget at ~$0.50/sf. <S> In my area (CO), 2x2s and 1x anything less than 4 is garbage lumber and not actually priced that attractively. <S> Here, 2x3s and 2x4s are far and away the best values. <S> The problem with 2x framing members sideways is that you will be very close to 1.5" in thickness and your minimum thickness 4" square electrical boxes are 1.5" thick. <S> You can obviously deal with via paper drywall shims or redwood lath strip pin nailed onto the 2x. <S> If you go with 1x material, how would you put electrical boxes in the wall? <A> Here in Arizona many older homes are built of cinder block, often just painted inside and out, no framing, no drywall, no insulation. <S> This comes from an era when running a swamp cooler in the summer was cheap, and a gas furnace or electric heat in the brief winters was also cheap. <S> Some of the older homes were PANELED on the inside, probably not a great idea for fire code. <S> I've seen these drywalled over, typically the firring strips are used, and 1/2" drywall is attached over them with 3/4" screws. <S> Any existing outlets, etc. <S> in the block are left in place (typically they're metal) and an extension is added (slipped in place over the drywall, into the box) and new outlets installed with longer screws to hold both the new outlets and the extension box to the old box. <S> Be sure to install the drywall 1/2" up from the floor, and add a footer for baseboard using the same firring strips, and when it's time, use much smaller nails for that than you normally would.
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It's best to have some of the firring strips near/around the box even if not secured to the block, to prevent movement when the outlet is installed. I'd be careful with ramset and concrete block. As someone noted, thin foam insulation is better than none at all, it will slip between the block and drywall.
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How can I dim landscape lights permanently? I googled this question before posting here - I cant seem to find anyone with my exact needs, so I am asking here. I have a light switch connected to an outlet that is under my house. From here I have a power strip mounted to the joist then there are 3 sets of Home Depot brand landscape lights connected to this strip (22 total lamps). They are too bright, and I would like to dim all three permanently (meaning set it once). I don't have any desire to change the level once I have it set, so its okay if the device I need is under the house. What should I do? <Q> The specifications for the current power pack (transformer) offered by Malibu says that it is Not for use with dimmers. <S> Older versions listed on their site also say the same thing. <S> While some of the earlier transformers from that manufacturer may differ, it doesn't look promising unless you swap out the transformer for a different brand. <A> The easiest thing to do is just replace the lightswitch with a dimmer switch. <S> They make ones where the switch is separate from the dimmer so you can set it to the desired level and then just switch it on and off. <S> If you want to lock in the dimmer, just use some superglue. <A> If there are an even number of lamps, and you want them to be a lot dimmer, you could divide them into two groups, with the lamps in each group wired in parallel, but the two groups in series with each other. <S> Note that if any lamp fails that would cause all the other lamps in its group to become brighter and those in the other group to become dimmer. <S> If the lights were near rated voltage after having been wired in series, having the lights that were in the same group as the failed one get brighter could cause a cascading failure, but if each bulb is rated for the full circuit voltage that shouldn't be a problem. <S> Note that the transformer and all equipment should be perfectly happy with this approach, but that it will probably cut brightness by 75% or so <S> [it will probably cut power consumption by somewhat less than 75%]. <S> Whether that is acceptable would depend upon your desired look. <S> Such a design would not be appropriate with 120VAC, but shouldn't be a problem with low-voltage wiring. <A> I had the same problem when I replaced an outdoor landscape spotlight with 5W it could signal aircraft to land way too bright. <S> I took a small piece of solar screen 90% <S> and I cut it around the round lamp face and pushed it in. <S> now it is perfect, if it was still too bright <S> I could put another screen on top of that <S> but just the one was perfect for my use. <S> LED's are much cooler and they do not generate much heat. <A> A variac would be the way to go on the input of the power strip that feeds the lights with a straight transformer. <S> Dimmer's affect the wave form and may cause the transformer to overheat. <S> A variac is a variable transformer that can reduce the voltage without affecting the sine wave. <S> Transformers like this are simple 10:1 step down transformers. <S> If you provide the transformer with 90v AC using a variac instead of 120v <S> now your voltage at the lights would be 9v. <S> Dimmers affect the wave form and create harmonics that can cause overheating this may be why it says not for use with a dimmer. <S> If incandescent it will make the lamps last longer but some xenon and halogen need there rated voltage or the lamp life is shortened.
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This particular site doesn't support a schematic-drawing tool, but it would be possible to wire a double-pole double-throw switch to select between normal and greatly-reduced brightness.
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Do I have to increase the water line diameter all the way to the water meter? I have a 1/2" water line into my house from the meter. I would like to change that over to use a 3/4" or a 1" line into my house. Do I need to replace all the 1/2" pipe back to the meter with my larger line, or can I just start replacing it inside the house? I'm concerned I will lose pressure if I don't replace it back to the meter. <Q> I'll disagree a little - LESS 1/2" pipe has less restriction than MORE 1/2" pipe. <S> Now, in most cases the pipe outside your house is far more than the pipe inside your house but depending where the meter is, if it's a short run from where you increase it to the meter (one of those deals where it's sitting on the outside wall of the house, say, and is fed by a larger line) <S> and it was formerly the case that the entire water service in the house was a single 1/2" pipe <S> , you might well see a noticeable improvement (though it is of course better to have a larger pipe all the way back to the meter.) <S> Now, if there's 100 feet of 1/2" pipe from the house to the meter, or from the water main to the meter, you're not going to see much improvement if you change 20-30 feet inside the house. <S> But if it's 3 feet to the meter and 30 feet inside the house, you will notice an improvement. <S> And, if you want to get sneaky, you can have a huge improvement (for a set number of gallons) by installing a pressure tank (as for a well pump) in the house (along with larger pipe, or a PEX manifold and a lot of home runs), so the 1/2" line is not required to supply water as fast as you use it, until you draw down the pressure tank. <S> Not much help in filling the tub, lots of help in refilling the toilet when it flushes without dropping pressure to the shower precipitously. <S> How many gallons would depend on how big of a pressure tank you buy, and how much your pressure varies with use (now.) <S> Just to toss one out there, especially for the folks with a charge by size of line into house. <S> More extreme setups might throw in a booster pump, too; I'm not going to suggest that without more data suggesting it would be worthwhile... <A> If you want more water pressure you have to go all the way back to the meter. <S> Doing this usually involves local water company. <S> Mine doesn't care if you do the work <S> but they have inspection steps. <A> As Ecnerwal says, if you can reduce the amount of 1/2" pipe, you'll increase your pressure. <S> That said, most homes have 1/2" pipe to and from most of the fixtures. <S> You don't need to and will find it a hassle to run supply to sinks and toilets in 3/4". <S> You might look and see if you have a large brass pressure regulator near the entrance of the water main to your house. <S> This device is designed to down regulate excessive street pressure. <S> However, in your case, it could either be out of adjustment (usually has an adjustment bolt on top) or malfunctioning. <S> These devices typically approach $100 new so they aren't inexpensive to replace <S> but they do typically have unions attaching them to the main pipe so you may be able to replace this yourself if you have some plumbing skills. <S> Another possibility: do you have older galvanized pipe or another pipe type that could have corrosion in it? <S> This isn't typically a problem with copper. <A> Do you have 1/2" pipe installed thoughout your house? <S> If you do, increasing the size of your pipe outside of your house to 3/4" will not help. <S> The 1/2" piping inside your house restricts your flow. <S> If your piping from the water meter to your house is 1/2" and the house piping inside your house is 3/4" or above then replacing the piping outside your house will increase you're water flow. <S> This assumses your water pressure at your meter is steady.
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You could start replacing things in your house but this won't help your water pressure situation - until the main line gets replaced.
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Why are some light switches giving shocks? Some of our light switches are giving light shocks and sometimes you can see a spark. What <Q> Could be <S> static - kinda depends on the nature of the shock/spark. <S> If you still get a shock from the switch, move on to: <A> Just a thought that I had after verifying the switch was indeed wired correctly. <S> I took a VERY small dab of silicone caulking and put it in the switch where the small screws thread in and that solved the problem. <S> Good silicone should not get so hard that you cannot remove the screws when you need to later. <A> As others have said, it's most likely just static-shock. <S> In my experience, this happens a lot in houses in which the switches aren't grounded. <S> The solution would be to add a ground-wire to ground the switches, but to do that you typically need to replace the wiring for the entire circuit. <S> Given that this is a relatively minor problem, and the solution is very time- <S> and work-intensive <S> , it's probably not worth it (though, adding a ground does have other safety-benefits ...)
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Not uncommon in the winter (dry inside the house) to get a static discharge to the grounded screws - try touching a doorknob or some other metal thing before touching the switch - if the other metal thing has the shock then, and the switch does not, that might be it. If it's more than just static, call an electrician ASAP...
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Can I install laminate (Pergo) flooring over previous underlayment? I tore up laminate flooring and the underlayment is still intact and in very good condition. Can I install the new laminate (which has the underlayment attached) on top of the existing underlayment? <Q> I am sorry I don't have time to research this right now <S> but I will give you a quick answer and maybe edit later. <S> First - call Pergo and ask. <S> Second, I have installed 4 different types of Pergo+underlayment and all of them say to take out old underlayment. <S> I think there is first an issue with the floor becoming too spongy and second if there is spongy/vertical movement it could could splintering or disconnecting of the tiles. <S> If your old underlayment is "padding" I would remove. <S> If it is just a thin vapor barrier then keep it. <A> From the Pergo Installation Instructions (Section 10d, page 6): If the Pergo Product being installed has an attached foam underlayment then use only a vapor barrier when installing over a concrete subfloor. <S> When installing a Pergo Product with an attached underlayment foam over a wood subfloor <S> no other additional acoustic underlayment should be used. <A> Yes you can, make sure the floor has no dips or high spots, no more than an 1/8" preferably less, using a 4 ft level or straight edge. <A> What Jack said is correct. <S> I'll add some extra comments. <S> What would be the reason to remove a solid plywood subfloor and replace it with the same material except new? <S> If needed, screw down any loose areas. <S> If there are any dips, use an embossing compound or cement style leveler to fill and level any irregularities. <S> Do not use any additional vapor barriers over the plywood subfloor. <S> The only time a vapor barrier would be appropriate would be over concrete or an unheated crawl space, but then only under the underlayment.
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I would advise you to check the existing subfloor to be sure it is secured well. Of course you can install over an existing subfloor in good condition.
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How to fix small holes/separation in caulk around bathtub? I'm sure this is a relatively simple task but I've never done it before and want to make sure I get it right. There are some holes/separation appearing in the caulk between the bathtub and the wall around it. Here is a picture: What would be the most appropriate way to fix this? Can I "patch" the holes with caulk or do I really need to remove what's there now and reapply? What type of caulk do I need? How do I make sure there is not moisture being sealed in? Also, what is the name of this type of material covering the wall around the inside of the tub/shower area? It feels thin and kind of plastic-y. I tried to describe it to someone and realized that I do not know what it's called. <Q> One more thing is to keep water in the tub when you caulk until the caulk dries. <S> It's a pain to work this way, but flex in the floor under the tub when there's weight in it can help open up a gap in the caulk over time if it was caulked with no weight in the tub. <S> Given that your caulk is doing a critical job it shouldn't have to do means you don't want to miss a trick. <S> You definitely do not want water getting behind or under the tub. <S> It creates a superb natural habitat for mold and rot. <S> Long term, it would be best to install a tub surround (or equivalent) that correctly overlaps the lip of the tub. <A> This looks like this is one of those re-lined tubs. <S> Get that caulked in as soon as possible. <S> I don't mean to be an alarmist, but I am surprised that the sidewalls are set behind the tub's top edge, not over the tubs edge. <S> The way this is now, relies only on the integrity of the caulk to keep the water out from the actual tub under the liner, where it would be trapped. <S> Would you be able to have the tub area redone? <S> If that is not possible, practically any hardware store, big or small will have a mildew resistant caulk that will take care of the immediate problem. <A> Jack and Ecnerwal are both right in that the wall should overlap the tub. <S> Your caulk probably failed prematurely because of the excessive runoff on it (and it is a bad caulk job). <S> What would I do? <S> Strip out all caulk. <S> Then make sure that I fill the gap between wall and tub with Silicone. <S> I would level the Silicone off at tub lip. <S> Then I would recaulk using a mold resistant caulk on top of silicone. <S> The caulking should not be applied as high (thick) as shown in your picture or it just won't last. <A> Not clear exactly what the wall covering is, but very clear it's installed wrong (the wall material should be lapped OVER the edge of the tub, not behind it, so the whole job of directing water is not dependent on the caulk.) <S> That said, if recaulking best results are from removing the old caulking first and redoing the whole job.
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Do remove the old caulk by carefully cutting the openings that are there bigger with out scratching the plastic tub or wall liner.
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How do I know if my wood front door's finish is weather proof? We just moved into a new home. The wood front door is semi-sheltered by a small porch. The front of the house has southern exposure and has the most exposure to the weather. There was an unsightly screen door on the outside that we removed. The door has a semi-glossy varnish-like finish, and I am worried that removing the screen door may expose the door to more moisture. The screen wasn't much protection, but it probably kept rain from blowing against the door. How do I determine whether the door's finish is appropriate for its exposure to the weather? <Q> All exterior wood finishes that are "suitable for sun exposure" still slowly degrade in the sun <S> (it's worse than water, actually) and need to be renewed - Just ask the folks with wooden boats. <S> So whether or not the current finish is "weather resistant" (since "weather proof" is not really accurate) it will need to be renewed. <S> The simplest approach is to re-coat <S> it <S> now with spar varnish or some other exterior <S> clear finish <S> (spar urethane would be the other common one) and <S> then you know what it's got on there. <S> Then plan to re-coat before significant damage accrues - it's easier to maintain a finish than to try and restore the look of wood that has been damaged or discolored by weathering. <A> UV light is actually probably a bigger concern than water. <S> An exterior door should be finished with something outdoor-rated, like spar varnish. <S> I'm not sure there's any way for you to tell by looking at it, but water and light damage will appear over time as peeling or discoloring. <S> I would just keep an eye on it. <A> As far as I know doors don't have a weather rating - they do have a fire rating and sometimes have a rating for insulation. <S> Since you have a varnish I am assuming you have a wood door. <S> How well it stands up to the weather <S> If it is a solid wood door you would have to really neglect it for it to get torn up by the elements. <S> But that being said - test it out. <S> Spray it with the hose. <S> Does the water soak or run off? <S> If it soaks in a little you might want to add some poly. <S> If not don't worry about it. <S> You can also run hose over porch to see how much water would get to it. <S> Really this is something that shouldn't be a major concern. <S> It should be part of your bi-yearly house checkup. <S> You should be able to notice water damage way before your door isn't repairable. <S> And to answer your question a wood door isn't water-proof in the purest sense. <S> You would need to get a fiberglass door for that. <S> I would rather have wood rather than steel which in your situation - taking off screen door - could lead to rust on the bottom of steel door.
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depends on how well you small porch shelters it, the outer coating, the type of wood, and if it is solid or not. All but the most delicate finishes will provide decent water resistance, but UV light will break down anything not specifically designed for it.
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What could be causing my three way switch to malfunction? Ok we recently moved in. There is a problem with our kitchen three way switch. I have not opened the box yet, but feel comfortable doing so, and working with a volt meter and what not. Here is the problem. The switch that turns off the light HAS to turn it back on. Once on, either switch can now become the switch that turns off the light. That results in both toggles being down when the light is on, and of course the side that turns the light off winds up with its toggle UP. I've put in a three way switch in the past. So I am familiar with the common terminal and the traveler terminals. Before I attacked this, I wanted to see what you folks think. <Q> You have a simple mis-wire somewhere. <S> As previously stated, you need to open both switches and see how everything is wired. <S> Get a few good diagrams of common 3-way wiring patterns and see if one is like the way yours are wired. <S> A Google search will bring up many. <S> The position of the switches does NOT matter at all. <S> What matters is identifying the feed wire, the load wire and the travelers. <S> In many cases even colors don't matter (or at least are not consistent). <A> It turned out to be that one switch only completed the circuit in one position, as though it were a simple on/off switch. <S> Replacing the defective switch solved the problem. <A> As you probably know, standard three-way switches have two "traveler" wires running between them. <S> The problem you describe can indicate that one of the travelers has become disconnected. <S> The result is equivalent to two standard switches in series. <S> I expect that when you check the switches, you'll find a wire has come off its screw or out of the backstab.
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I had a similar problem on a circuit with two switches for one light.
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Why does my furnace drip bucket fill up so frequently? We have an oil furnace that heats the house using a two-zone hot-water circuit, and also acts as an on-demand hot water heater. There is a pipe coming off the collection of pipes coming out of it that has a 2-quart drip bucket beneath it. This bucket fills every other day. In other homes I've seen with this arrangement, this bucket never fills, and any water in it evaporates after a day or so. What's causing it to fill so quickly, and is it something worth calling the furnace repair service for? <Q> Depends what it's dripping. <S> If it's a high-effiency condensing boiler (despite not usually boiling the water these days, <S> a central heating device that heats water is referred to as a boiler, while furnace refers to those that heat air, in the usual vocabulary) , it may be dripping condensate (mostly water) from the exhaust. <S> This often has a somewhat purplish coloration (just as a possible diagnostic/disambiguation point) from the non-mostly-water fraction. <S> Those are usually directed to a drain, or to a collection bucket with a condensate pump that pumps to a drain. <S> If so either the valve is faulty and needs to be replaced, or the furnace controls are slightly out of whack causing it to actuate. <A> The furnace tech indicated it was an improperly connected pipe used for bleeding air from the system, and it was also unnecessary as we have bleeder valves on the hot water circuits. <S> They removed the pipe and plugged it, and we haven't had an issue since. <A> The issue could be a faulty overflow valve. <S> These values are typically rated at 30 psi (should be a metal tag with the rated pressure). <S> Watch the pressure gauge when the furnace fires up. <S> The furnace is usually about 12- 15 psi when it hasn't run for a while. <S> If the furnace goes beyond the valve's rated pressure and starts dripping a lot, then the issue is most likely the expansion tank is waterlogged. <S> Shut off the boiler, then the valve that leads from the furnace to the expansion tank. <S> There should be a faucet attachment that you can attach a hose to. <S> Open the faucet and drain the tank entirely ( might take some time if it is full as air has to get in the tank in order for the water to get out. <S> You may have a release screw in the upper part of the tank to speed this along). <S> Once completely drained, pop the lever on the over flow so that the pressure gauge drops below 10 psi. <S> If you opened a release screw, close it. <S> Open the valve to the expansion tank <S> and you should hear the water rushing in. <S> This is normal. <S> You should see the pressure increase as the tank fills. <S> The water should stop flowing into the tank once it reaches the set pressure of the boiler. <S> Turn the boiler back on and watch the pressure as it is running. <S> An increase of about 5 psi should be normal. <S> If it still goes above 30 psi, expect the overflow to release water. <S> The issue could be water temperature.
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It could also be a straightforward leak, (usually) from an overpressure/overtemperature valve - look for that type of valve on the pipe that is dripping.
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How much ventilation space does a refrigerator need? The person who built our refrigerator cabinet box only left 1" for ventilation at the top of the refrigerator. Is this enough space for proper ventilation? There is a 1" gap on either side, and a 4" gap in the back (due to a narrow heating duct going up the wall behind it). <Q> This entirely depends on the refrigerator and where the coils and fans are. <S> Older refrigerators were cooled with fins on the back, and depended on convection (heat rising). <S> The heat of the coils would draw air through the lower grille, up the back, and over the top. <S> A modern unit might do all it's cooling with a fan pushing heat out at the front bottom plate. <S> See : http://www.samsung.com/us/support/faq/FAQ00021650/21818/Y/RB197ABPN/XAA <S> Keep in mind <S> your cabinet is now built to fit just one size refrigerator: just hope that size is available in fifteen years when your current model is no longer repairable due to planned obsolescence. <S> Front venting units are also somewhat less efficient, all other factors held constant. <A> You need to consult the manufacturer instructions. <S> That is the only place to get accurate info for things such as clearances, etc. <S> In my experience, if this is a typical residential refer, 1" on top is pretty small. <S> Some units need no clearance at all. <S> I mean like Sub-Zero, etc. <A> The sides certainly do need some clearance especially considering some now have vents on the sides also. <S> I would say minimum 1/2 inch to each side. <S> Plus, freestanding fridges are hardly ever completely plumb. <S> Take a level to the side of one and see for yourself. <S> Due to the plastic material and the spray insulation used in the body the sides can be bowed out causing fit issues. <S> Never allow your contractor/kitchen designer to give you a 36" wide opening for a 36" inch refrigerator (most of which are between 35.75 and 36"). <S> The built-in look is nice, but you are asking for trouble and built-in Sub Zeros, etc. <S> are not designed the same as freestanding refrigerators. <S> Minimum 37 <S> " opening to allow for ease of installation, proper ventilation and increased options when your fridge dies, often prematurely. <S> It will still look good because there will be an even dark gap from the shadow on either side.
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It's common to have the cabinet above the fridge a bit less deep than the others, to allow for airflow. Samsung's current models require 1" on top, half inch each side. The sides do not need any clearance at all.
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Is there a motion sensor light switch that does not need ground? My house was built in early 1950's and all electrical switches do not have a ground.This was found out with an electrician when I asked them to install Lutron Maestro , but it would not power on since there was no ground to connect it to. His suggestion was to find a motion sensing light switch that did not need ground, but he could not make a recommendation off-hand. Do motion sensing light switches that do not require ground exist? Or do I have to build/rig them somehow. Unfortunately, due to cost, I cannot afford to add ground wires to the areas of the house that I need these at. EDITThe electrician connected the Meastro unit then attempted to turn it on. Pressing the button or moving in front of the sensor did not turn it on. He also attempted to connect the unit's ground to either neutral or hot, but did not work either (I can't recall which). Guess I have to spend the loot and run ground wire :( <Q> Occupancy sensors, timers, dimmers, and other "smart" switches often are required to be independently powered. <S> If you look at this diagram from the devices documentation (PDF) , you'll see that there are three ways this requirement is achieved. <S> Neutral Wire Required <S> The first method, is to simply require a neural wire. <S> In this configuration, the device draws power using the ungrounded (hot) conductor and grounded (neutral) conductor. <S> It also has a separate switched conductor, that it uses to control the load. <S> This setup would be wired like this... <S> Minimum Load Required <S> This method draws power using the ungrounded (hot) conductor, and the switched conductor. <S> So the device is actually in line with the load. <S> This setup is wired like this... <S> Ground Wire Required <S> This method draws power using the ungrounded (hot) conductor, and the grounding conductor. <S> It's wired similar to the Neutral Required devices, however, it uses the grounding conductor instead of the grounded conductor. <S> This means that there will be a small amount of current on the grounding conductor, and that the grounding conductor is required for the device to operate. <S> This setup would be wired like this... <S> Notice there's a bare, and green wire connected to ground in this diagram. <S> tl;dr <S> Your device <S> The device you're using (MS-OPS5M-XX) requires a ground to operate, according to the documentation. <S> Solutions Install grounding conductors <S> One solution, would be to install a grounding conductor with this circuit. <S> This will likely require quite a bit of work, and might be quite costly. <S> Install a grounded conductor <S> In this case you'd have to purchase a different device (one that requires a neutral rather than a ground). <A> I think you probably mean the switch didn't have a neutral (which is connected to ground but not the same thing as "ground"). <S> Standard light switches are either open or closed, and so they only have the incoming hot wire and the outgoing hot wire that are either connected ("on") or disconnected ("off"). <S> If you have a switch with additional features that need electricity there are two options: Add a neutral wire to the switch so that the switch can consume some extra current from the incoming hot and return it via neutral. <S> Draw a very small amount of current inline with the main light. <S> This means that the light is always on, just very dim when the switch is in the "off" position. <S> This is an older technique that eliminates the requirement for a neutral, however A) <S> It does not work with fluorescent or LED bulbs, B) <S> there is constantly electricity flowing through the light, and C) there is a limit to how much electricity can be used by the device. <S> Sounds <S> like your chosen motion sensor is of the first type, i.e. it requires a neutral. <S> Your electrician is suggesting the second type. <S> There may or may not be such a sensor. <A> Can you take the cover off a switch and take a photo to show us? <S> I rewired my 1959 house in 2011. <S> Although the switches and receptables were not grounded, there was a ground in every box. <S> (Although electrical code can vary by jurisdiction, I would be surprised if your electrical boxes were not grounded.) <A> You need a ground. <S> Neutrals aren't always in a switch box (depends on how the wires are ran). <S> You might be able to run a 14/2 from the switch box to the nearest receptacle box and splice the ground connection in the receptacle to your switch. <S> Cap off the white an black in that 14/2. <S> As long as the ground going to the receptacle is on the same system that is providing power to switch your good. <S> Might not be pretty but it will work. <A> Using the green wire which comes out of the switch, attached to the neutral is an acceptable method to get this type of switch to function. <S> Honestly, if anybody has violated safety rules, it's the manufacturer of the switch. <S> As a current carrying conductor, this should be a neutral connection, and a white wire respectively. <S> Since there is no exposed ground or neutral with this switch, there is no risk of contact to a live conductor when installed. <S> I don't see how this switch would pass leakage current testing with UL or any other testing organization. <S> For those saying " Your license should be revoked, and you should be thrown out of school. ", get your panties out of a twist, he's right, the manufacturer is the guilty party here.
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It may be possible to extend a grounded (neutral) conductor from the light to the switch box, which could then be used to power the device. Green/ground connections should only be intended for a safety current path, not for the operation of the switch.
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Circuit breaker does not trip - but produces no voltage under load Some lights and outlets started going out intermittently in my home. Circuit breaker did not trip off but under inspection with a multi-meter, produced no voltage. I disconnected the load from the breaker (Disconnected the black wire from it) and checked again with the multi-meter. It produced 117 volts. I installed a new breaker and same deal - under load; 0 volts - disconnected from load; 117 volts. Neither breaker tripped. This circuit has worked for years without fault. Recent work on home - the roof leaked through the ceiling a few months ago and we replace the ceiling. Could a drywall screw through a wire cause this issue? Any assist is appreciated. <Q> See https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/27285/82 <A> Sounds serious. <S> The presence of line voltage (117V) on the wire indicates a possible cross connection between two circuits. <S> If you put an circuit tester between the disconnected black and your panel neutral, and it glows, you've got trouble. <S> As @shirlock homes says above, turn off breakers one by one until that voltage goes away. <S> A drywall screw through an otherwise unchanged circuit would not produce the results you describe. <S> You can repeat the experiment with the breaker on and off: it should produce the same results as removing the wire. <A> Also, check the neutrals. <S> If some how a neutral got disconnected then you may have created a 208v circuit which requires both breakers on and two loads plugged in. <S> Sometimes this situation, when engineered intentionally, is called 'floating neutral'. <S> Gotta check the neutral. <S> Its a savior.
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You might have a break in a wire, a loose connection, or corrosion.
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Mold on Ceiling on Flat Paint Not sure what exactly the line of thought was here, but my bathroom walls were painted with flat paint. While there is a fan in the bathroom, I'm not exactly sure how well its working, as it seems that the moisture from taking showers is not able to escape properly. This has led to both mold and the paint cracking (surprise, surprise): It's pretty rampant throughout the bathroom: I'm not exactly sure what to do about it, since it seems to be a recurring problem. After we clean it, it just reappears a few months down the line. Now that the paint's cracking, I'm debating what to do. I was thinking of just cleaning off the mold with bleach/anti-mold treatment, then just painting over the entire ceiling with high-gloss white paint, but now that the paint is cracking, I'm really not sure what to do. I don't want this to turn into a huge project, but I'd like to solve the problem once and for all if possible. What should I do? <Q> Make sure everyone using the bathroom uses the fan. <S> The exhaust fan has some how moved. <S> Also make sure it is sized appropriately for your space. <S> See this guide on bathroom exhaust fan sizing from the Home Ventilating Institute. <S> You may want to consider a larger fan (or better fan) if it's not working. <S> I've even seen one with a humidity sensor that automatically turns the fan on and off. <S> Consider getting one of those. <S> You're going to want to repaint. <S> In a bathroom that means you have to thoroughly clean the walls whether you have mold or not. <S> Too much stuff accumulates on walls in bathrooms to get good adhesion without cleaning. <S> That might be why you're seeing peeling more so than from the steam. <S> Scrape off any peeling paint and sand the edges to feather them and repair any large dips or gouges. <S> Paint with a high quality paint meant for bathrooms. <S> Most good paint these days seem to have mold inhibitors in them. <S> You don't need to go with a higher sheen paint. <S> In the past I've used Zinsser Perma-White, which I believe was one of the first paints with mold inhibitors. <S> It is available in eggshell. <S> I recently used Benjamin Moore's Aura Bath & Spa paint which is in their Matte finish. <S> It's somewhere between flat and eggshell, maybe leaning more towards eggshell. <S> Happy with both but really thrilled with how well the Aura went on and has been holding up. <A> Well you have three things to do <S> : Get a better fan. <S> Change location of fan closer to shower. <S> I can see most of the mold is by shower and that means that the fan air flow isn't catching this. <S> Point <S> #3 has been answered to death on this site. <S> You need to get rid of all mold and get that bathroom dry for a few days before you do anything else to it. <S> Your tiles probably aren't helping but retiling should be a last resort. <A> As it turns out, there is <S> absolutely no ventilation in the bathroom whatsoever <S> : This is the fan. <S> It simply pushes air downward into the bathroom. <S> It is not connected to any ventilation channel whatsoever. <S> For others with this problem, examining your bathroom fan is definitely the first step. <S> Afterward, examine other options like scraping the paint, cleaning up and killing the mold, then repainting with mold-resistant paint. <A> There are a number of steps that should be taken here, but the ultimate goal is clearly to come up with a better ventilation system. <S> Remove the mold stricken areas. <S> It's a pretty safe bet to cut 1 foot around them in each direction. <S> Sanitize the area around the remaining areas. <S> Mold resistant primer/paint is definitely of value in a bathroom. <S> Pick up a tin of Zinsser from Home Depot. <S> You can just do one layer without primer <S> and it can be mixed <S> up to 2 parts Zinsser one part any other paint to create a nice tint. <S> Makes for good pastel colors. <S> This is a standard in the remediation industry. <S> Remove that fan - that's an atrocious set up. <S> I'm glad that you seem to have come to terms with that already. <S> 5a. <S> The ideal bathroom fan pumps air out of the house. <S> The second best is that it pumps air in to the same duct that your dryer uses, which then exits the house. <S> One easy way to do this is to funnel the air through a dehumidifier in the attic. <S> The common mistake is that the people often blow the humid air up in to the attic, creating another mold hotspot. <S> You will have to create a shared switch system that turns on both the fan and the dehumidifier at the same time. <S> You can then either let the water drip in to a drainage pipe that lets gravity take the water to a drain in your basement or bathroom. <S> An alternative and more expensive full house system is described here: www.ultra-aire.com/images/pdfs/UA-XT150H_Spec.pdf <S> 5b. <S> It's a bit of an eyesore, but here's a cheap and effective fix if you don't want to go through the ordeal described in #5: http://www.amazon.com/Eva-dry-Edv-1100-Electric-Petite-Dehumidifier/dp/B000H0ZDD2 <S> Best of luck! <S> Source: I'm a water damage specialist for a restoration company.
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But before you do those get rid of all mold in your bathroom, then use a mold resistant primer and paint on the entire bathroom. The third best is that you create a system that allows the fan to suck air in to a dehumidifier in either an adjacent room or in the bathroom itself. Inspect it to see why and check to see if there are any issues with the duct. It is possible that a much better fan would allow you to keep the fan in current location. They have a number of different options for fan switches that have timers that keep the fan running even after the lights have been turned off. Bleach is less than ideal - if you can get a spray bottle of Concrobium from Home Depot, that's your best bet.
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How do I stop lights from flashing when I turn on my table saw? I just installed a hanging fixture for two 40W T-12 fluorescent bulbs over my table saw. If I power up the saw when the lights are on, they flash off and come right back on (after the usual flickering). The saw is 1.75HP, 110V, 14A, and the circuit is 20A. The receptacle currently powers the table saw from one outlet and a 1.5HP dust collector and the light fixture plugged into a power strip from the other outlet. I know there is a big draw on the house's power when I turn on the saw, but this is a pain. Can I plug a UPS or other voltage-stabilizing device in front of the lights and dust collector to make this go away? Should I plug all the devices into a UPS? Or, should I deal with it and stop whining? Thanks! <Q> When an electric motor turns on, there is a thing called "inductive kick". <S> What this means is that for a second at start up, the motor looks like a short circuit and draws more than the rated amperage. <S> Voltage is dropped as well. <S> This is corrected by huge capacitors in an industrial situation. <S> In your case, the combination of large current drain and a resulting voltage drop causes the ballast for the florescent lights to fail to deliver proper voltage to the bulbs. <S> This is common. <S> I would move the plug for the lights to another circuit. <A> 1.75hp saw, 1.5 hp dust collector and lights all on the same 20 A circuit? <S> Way too much before you even get to the lights. <S> Not only should the lights be on a completely separate circuit, <S> the saw and dust collector should not be on the same 20A circuit - you are overloading that just with those (there are no 6 amp 1.5 hp 120VAC motors without using "magic"... <S> an impossible 100% efficient 1.5HP 120V motor will draw 9.25 A, and real motors draw more since they are not 100% efficient.) <S> If you only add one circuit, put the lights with the dust collector. <S> Even better to switch the dust collector and saw over to 240V, if possible. <A> A low cost UPS in front of the lights would fix the problem, cheaply and easily. <S> I'd use it just for the lights not the dust collector. <S> The only potential problem is the UPS might just alarm during the transient, which may be worse than the flicker. <S> Since the lights are on the same 20A circuit, moving them to another circuit would probably help a lot. <S> You can extend a nearby circuit if permitted by code, or run a new 15 or 20 amp service. <S> A whole house surge protector might take away some of the transients that are giving the lights fits. <S> A different brand of light might perform better under the same circumstances. <S> Power filters (different from surge protectors) might also help, but they're pricey. <S> Soft start motors or motor capacitors are a possibility, but too much trouble unless adding a new circuit is really impossible. <A> While I think either shirlock or ecnerwal's answers are more likely to be the case here, another possibility is a loose connection somewhere along the circuit. <S> I would avoid a UPS, you would just be masking the problem, and they are typically not designed for repetitive short bursts of power loss - you'll likely wear down the battery and need to replace them frequently.. <S> Depending on how much you use your saw, you could possibly drain the battery and not give it an opportunity to charge and you'd end up with the same problem. <A> UPS's here and there are interesting options and may even work. <S> But that's just addressing the symptom, not the disease. <S> The disease here is too much on one circuit. <S> The canonical and safest way to fix this is to create a circuit at the breaker panel for for the table saw. <S> Nominal cost: breaker, cable, outlet, electrician <S> (though many can do this by themselves). <S> End result: peace of mind.
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The only other thing that will cure the problem is a motor starting capacitor. Better to provide a lights only circuit, then when you manage to trip the outlet breakers there's still light.
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Can I let rainwater run along the wall? I have 2 concrete small slabs (2m x 5m) that are sloped with 1.5% ending in the wall of the lower floor, 3 sides of the slabs have walls (just the low level doesn't). What is the best course of action to deal with this rain water? Can I just let it run along the wall below? Should I build a small (10cm) wall in the open end and use a scupper or some other thing? I don't want to use gutter because I will need to put a ladder against it from time to time for maintenance. <Q> It seems like the easiest solution would be to just put up a gutter and then move the lower ladder to one of the other walls, no? <A> You can get standoffs that either bolt onto the ladder with U-bolts or which clip-onto the rungs and are held with a spring-clip <A> This would help a bit, and not interfere with the ladder placement. <S> However, I really recommend putting a proper eaves trough and downspout. <S> This will keep water from pooling against the foundation, and running under the door. <S> If you really need a ladder space, run the trough over the door, and install drip edge over the 18 inches nearest the wall, so you can place the ladder. <S> (image source: http://www.easternwahomeinspections.com/drip-edge-flashing-on-your-home-is-recommended )
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I would add a gutter and then use a ladder standoff You could add some drip edge flashing, such as the one in the top right:
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What is the easiest way to replace an existing backsplash? I've got an unusual backsplash in my kitchen that I would like to replace. As you can see from the picture, there's about 6" of granite tile acting as a proper backsplash, but above that it appears they installed sheetrock (flush with the surface of the tile) all the way up to the bottom of the cabinets. So the combination of the tile and the sheetrock is like an additional layer on top of the actual kitchen wall. I guess the point of this is to give the impression that the tile backsplash is embedded into the wall? In any case, I would like to replace the backsplash with the least amount of work practical. If it were just sheetrock, I assume I could just tile over it. If it was just tile along the bottom edge, I would remove it first. But the combination of the tile and flush sheetrock is complicating my path forward. Am I going to have to remove the tile and the "false wall" above it? Or can I just apply the new backsplash right over the top of it? There's close to 30 linear feet of this stuff, so removing it will be a lot of work I don't want to do if I don't absolutely have to. <Q> Look on the right side of your picture. <S> You can tell the granite and fake stucco finish is layered on the drywall. <S> First you will not get drywall or backboard to adhere permanently to granite <S> so it has to go <S> or you have to use it. <S> Personally I would keep the granite. <S> Then I would scrape off all of the stucco. <S> It might sound like a pain in the ass but its not a HUGE project - 3 or 4 hours. <S> Then you might have to do some minor repairs to it. <S> If anything I would just take this stuff off in chunks and skimcoat the area afterwards. <S> You don't need backerboard unless you want to put up a heavier stone. <S> Drywall is fine. <S> Just scratch it up good before hand. <S> I would use thinset instead of mastic so that I can level out any wall issues as I go. <S> If you keep the stucco and put something over it you are going to have some really odd edges <S> and it just won't look right. <A> Something else to try might be to place backer board over the whole area. <S> Shim the stucco area out in a few places ( ideally at studs) to support the backer board and provide a sturdy mounting surface. <S> You'd lose a little depth <S> but you wouldn't have to worry about joining tiles to granite or removing stucco; you'll have a nice uniform surface. <S> You may want to adhere the backer board to the granite in addition to screwing it into the shimmec studs, rather than letting it float on the granite. <S> I'm thinking about the need for sturdiness of the surface versus the different behavior of stucco versus granite in temperature swings. <S> Any experts want to rule in on floating versus fixing on the granite? <A> Pull the outlet cover and verify that that you've got sheetrock on top of sheetrock first. <S> Assuming that is the case, you should be able to remove the extra sheetrock layer with a chisel and screwdriver. <S> Then patch the inevitable damage and sand the whole thing. <S> If it were me, I'd keep the granite and add tile or metal to the bottom of the cabinet. <A> I see two problems here. <S> One, you didn't say what kind of material you want to use as the new back splash, and two, is the faux stucco finish on the wall <S> would be a poor backer for a new tile back splash if it is not a masonry material. <S> If the surface is fairly flat, you could apply hardi-backer board over the existing materials. <S> I would use a urethane based adhesive like PL400 on the stone and hardi-backer screws into studs higher up under the cabinets. <S> This backer board will allow you to install new ceramic tiles or other adhesive secured materials as a back splash. <S> I would not normally use any drywall product in this location due to obvious water/moisture issues. <S> If you do not want to cover the granite back splash, just replace the drywall component <S> , I see no option other than removing all the old material to the studs and starting from scratch. <A> I would either score the granite with a grinder and take my chances with installing right over or remove everything down to stud. <S> Removing everything isnt tht bad just take a hammer and start whacking away <S> and once you have a hole start pulling if off. <S> Then put a new drywall up.
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Throw down some tile that fits in with the granite.
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What are the steps to cutting polyurethane? I've seen a lot of tips about cutting the first coat of polyurethane with mineral spirits to reduce drying time. However, given that it's the first coat, I have a full can of polyurethane. I'd pour some polyurethane out into a separate container, but am worried this will create air bubbles. Likewise, I imagine the act of adding mineral spirits to polyurethane could also introduce air bubbles. How can I add mineral spirits to polyurethane without creating air bubbles? <Q> I normally would not recommend thinning urethane. <S> If you have a new can of fresh urethane, it should be ready to go. <S> I would try to apply it thin rather than a thicker coat. <S> If you feel you really need to thin it, just slowly pour some in another container and add a small amount of thinner at a time. <S> Stir it slowly and you will have no issues with air bubbles. <S> Never shake or use a high speed mechanical mixer. <S> If you see some small bubbles, don't worry. <S> They should dissipate during application. <S> the only time air bubbles are an issue is when the product is shaken hard and the urethane appears real cloudy. <A> If I may add something here: <S> they sell polyurethane that is pre-thinned. <S> One brand I've used is Min-wax Wipe-On Poly. <S> It's intended to me wiped on with a rag <S> and I've never had any issue with bubbles. <S> This is actually all I use any more. <S> I have not examined the cost though; it could be that this product costs more than simply buying poly along with a can of thinner. <A> I add 20% thinner to my polyurethane to promote even coats, prevent bubbles(they <S> pop more easily on their own when thin), and speed up drying time. <S> You can alternatively use lacquer thinner and this will dry even more quickly due to <S> it's lower flash point -- <S> but in high temperatures it might dry too quickly. <S> As far as methodology for mixing, I have a "mixing <S> can" that I bought at a big box store -- they sell empty paint cans -- and I add 20% thinner and the rest poly. <S> I use a plastic <S> can attachment that acts as a spout to prevent poly from filling the lid gap when pouring. <S> Stir with a stir stick. <S> I don't get too many bubbles <S> but I don't worry about them either because they pop on their own. <S> Pour onto the side of the can to prevent bubbles <S> (think of pouring beer from a bottle into a glass). <A> thin the oil based poly at least 10% with mineral spirits before you start. <S> If you put on a coat and you get bubbles and a thick gooey coat, when its dry sand out the bubbles and add thinner for your next coat, I recommend +5% mineral spirits by volume until you get a coat you like. <S> Im about to do my final coat at 15% mineral spirits as 5% <S> was too thick <S> (had to sand most of it off due to brush lines and bubbles) and 10% was almost perfect. <S> I had to let it dry 48 hrs between coats as its pretty humid where I live. <S> Good Luck
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You WILL get bubbles if the varnish is too thick when you put it on unless you are a real PRO.
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How can I increase water pressure after installing dual-head shower? I recently installed a 2-headed shower system in my master bathroom (2 shower heads coming from one pipe). Afterwards, the problem I suspected occurred. Having the "gate", if you will, set to direct all water flow to one head works great. However, if I try to make it so both outputs have a stream of water, the pressure in both is too low to be of much use. Is there any way I can increase the water pressure for this shower? All the other faucets and such are fine, so I'm not sure if increasing pressure to the entire house is what I am looking for. This may not be it exactly , but the system basically this: Excuse me if I used improper terminology, but hopefully this is understandable. <Q> You would need to increase the pipe size from the water supply (hot and cold) to the shower in question. <S> A potential alternate solution/issue may be that some (most?) of the "gate" or "diverter" valves are not really giving full flow to either device when "set in the middle" - they are designed to go one way or the other, not both. <S> A different one might offer less restriction in that mode; or something cobbled up from a Tee and two full-flow shutoff valves. <A> This depends on what your current plumbing system looks like. <S> If you have 3/4 inch copper coming into your house and 3/4" copper into the shower valve then yes you would have to upgrade your whole house - doubt this is it. <S> If you have 3/4-1 inch copper coming into your house and 1/2" copper on the shower valve line then you would just have to upgrade that line. <S> That might be easy or very very costly because sometimes you have to open up walls that you don't want to. <S> Whatever it is you need to figure out where the shower valve branch diverts from the main line. <S> Then you can see if the branch is smaller or if it is easy or hard to get to. <A> In a bathroom remodel, the shower valve I installed (with hot and cold inlets, tub outlet, shower outlet) had a small brass cone in the shower outlet, presumably as a restrictor. <S> The lower tub outlet had no restrictor. <S> If you have "full" pressure on your tub <S> I suspect this is the case. <S> If you really wanted to remove the restrictor and had the skills you might be able to do it with only access to the valve from the tub side or by cutting an access panel from the back. <S> The way I would do it is to remove the pipe feeding the shower from the valve, remove the restrictor with a drill or by pulling it out, then re-soldering the pipe back in place. <S> Since the top of the pipe will be mounted to the stud you will probably have to cut a section of pipe then solder it back in place. <S> Note that I haven't tried this, it's only a theory.
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If your shower has a large cartridge you might be able to remove it and feel if there's a restrictor, although removing said restrictor would probably be difficult from inside the valve.
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Soundproofing a room so sound doesn't go out as much So the building I live in is really bad with sound. What I want is a way to soundproof my room so I can talk with my normal voice without upsetting the people who live above me. The floor above me is the 5th and they can even hear the guy playing guitar who lives in the 2nd floor. I'm usually on voice chat at night and especially if something upsets me and I raise my volume, the entire floor above me can apparently hear me. Is there anything I can do aside from making my room the way a radio studio is? <Q> Hard to know without some details of how the place is built - if they hear the guitar player from 3 floors below, I suspect there's a ventilation-duct connection acting as a "speaking-tube". <S> If it was just the ceiling, a "dropped" or "suspended" acoustical tile ceiling would probably help. <S> If it is a duct connection, some type of acoustic baffle on that would probably help. <S> Plug the gaps around the pipes, to start. <S> Possibly some sort of wall-covering as well as the already suggested ceiling-covering, if it's all brick and concrete. <A> in order Seal off any penetrations and openings using small cans of spray foam, caulk or similar. <S> This includes plumbing, HVAC and electrical. <S> including around outlets and boxes for light fixtures. <S> I believe spray foam does too. <S> It's not cheap but only requires one or two holes per stud bay. <S> If that's still not enough... Contractors who work on commercial office buildings usually are familiar with sound proofing. <S> There are a number of ways of doing it but in your case I think the easiest (relatively speaking) option is going to be to put up a new layer of drywall on all the walls and ceilings that are adjacent to other units with some sort of isolation between the two sheets. <S> There are special channels and I think possibly some rubber membrane, I even remember this acoustical caulk too. <S> It's been a while <S> since I've looked into this so don't remember all the details, <S> Not sure what to do about the floor. <S> If the insulation works you might be able to talk to the guy below you and see if you can add insulation to your floor through his ceiling. <S> 2 & 3 aren't cheap but your walls will look like regular walls and not be covered in egg crate foam or similar. <A> You didn't say anything about the type of construction of the building. <S> Most people on this forum are familiar with wood frame construction the way it is done in the US. <S> You mentioned Greece in your profile, so I assume your building is a reinforced concrete structure with brick walls? <S> I would not expect this type of problem in such a building, so either there is something very wrong, or you live in a different type of house. <S> If you have concrete floors, you can absolutely add insulation. <S> I lived in an apartment with brick walls once and added fiberglass insulation and drywall/gypsum board on the wall that I shared with my neighbor. <S> It worked well, but it is not a small job. <S> You could do the same thing on the ceiling.
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If that's not enough... Add insulation to walls and ceiling. Blown in rockwool has very good sound absorbing properties. Since you own the place... this is what I would propably try...
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How should a water heater drain pan be installed on a concrete slab floor? My water heater sits on a concrete slab floor in my utility room next to a wall with a bathtub drain, and a few feet over from my washing machine drain. When I replace the heater I would like to install a water heater pan and have it connected to the tub drain (I haven't yet consulted a plumber about this--I assume it would be possible). The issue I see is that if the water heater pan is sitting on the floor then the drain will--at best--be level. Will the drain is effective in this scenario? Would the heater need to be raised so that the drain could better be gravity fed?Would another option be altogether better? <Q> Installing a pan under a water heater is always a good idea. <S> As a contractor, I have responded to many leaking tanks over the years and a drained pan would have made the situation a lot cheaper and easier for the customer. <S> the leak is one thing, but the collateral damage is another. <S> If you have clearance above the water heater, you could raise the level with a few concrete patio blocks so it could drain down to the shower drain. <S> If you have a sump hole in your floor, that is a good option. <S> If using a shower drain, this assumes you can tap into it above the trap. <S> Plumbing it into the washer drain might be tricky because you would need a pump to lift the water to the drain inlet. <S> Not seeing your set up makes it difficult to say for sure. <S> There are also simple alarms that sense water and sound an alarm etc. <S> This would give you a heads up before the pan over flows and floods the floor. <A> Elevating the hot water heater will offer better draw especially if you were to have a large leak. <S> Most customer's we work with will use a fitting in the hole that will connect with some type of tube that will drain through the floor or if outside, drain down away from structure. <S> We offer Drain Pans and bulk head fittings so that you could connect to the tub drain. <A> Any drain pan gravity drained into a sewer line runs the risk of a back up which can overflow the pan even when the water heater is not the problem. <S> Use a pump.
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Placing a Drain Pan under your hot water heater is a smart idea.
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What are the benefits of a Floating Vanity over a Vanity that is secured to the floor? Would this be purely design choice? <Q> Most standard type box vanities are constructed with a back stile across the width of the unit at the top/back. <S> We never connect them to the floor. <S> We find the studs in the wall and screw the back stile to it. <S> When doing this, you can correct the level both side to side and front to back. <S> Strategic use of shims helps in the leveling process, but the screws lock the vanity in place. <A> I don't think this is a design matter. <S> It is a matter of the flooring. <S> You tile or whatever <S> and it extends close to the wall <S> - well doesn't matter a lot because vanity it over it. <S> So there makes doing that side of floor easy instead of cutting the tile to fit exactly at vanity. <S> And then that is the next point <S> , what do you do if you get a new vanity? <S> If it isn't the exact same size you would have issues. <S> So easier to extend tile to wall (even if a little sloppy on that side) <S> and this looks better, saves cuts/time tiling, makes putting the vanity in easier (shims), and can be changed out in a couple hours. <S> Like shirlock said you just need a couple of screws through vanity frame to wall framing to keep it in place in the back <S> and maybe one of the sides. <S> I test after each screw and if there isn't a wiggle (I give a hard wiggle) <S> then I stop putting in screws. <S> To sum: Easier floor installation. <S> Vanity to floor transition looks better - don't need skirt/trim. <S> I mean the vanity itself can take as little as 10 minutes. <S> Much much easier to replace vanity or move vanity <S> (think if you need to get to plumbing behind). <A> A matter of design preference but also, in case of remodeling where you are not standing new wall studs, it may be difficult to suspend a floating vanity to existing studs, unless they are positioned to line up. <S> I have a floating one because I totally gutted and rebuilt my bathroom <S> and I positioned my wall studs specifically to be able to screw the vanity into them. <S> If I had left the old studs, maybe it wouldn't have been possible.
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Easier to install vanity.
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Make new walls match thickness of old walls I'm working in a 1952 house and the studs used then are apparently 3 5/8" thick instead of the studs today at 3 1/2". I know it's really close so I'm wondering if I fill in door ways along a wall to make it into a longer hallway, will the difference be obvious when you cover the old and new studs with drywall? If so, what options other than tearing down and rebuilding the whole wall might there be? <Q> Rip some strips of 1/8 hardboard (masonite) and tack them on the new studs. <S> Or you could use plywood, but hardboard is usually less expensive, and less prone to giving you splinters when you rip a bunch of it. <A> You either go with different thickness of drywall or just shim the drywall out. <S> I really spent no time on this and had a 6 foot section 1/4 inch off. <S> Note: for 1/8th inch you only need to shim out the first smaller stud. <A> Put joint compound on the stud then screw the drywall to where it needs to be. <S> Then wait till the joint compound drys finish setting the screw. <S> I have done this many times and it works great. <A> You could use 3/8" drywall on one side and 1/2" on the other, instead of <S> 1/2"on both sides and it should be very close. <S> A good wide mud joint will even it out and hardly be noticeable.
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I shimmed out drywall in a similar situation and it is really easy if there is such a small difference in widths.
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How do I remove a lead stain from my windows? I have lead around my windows and after a new lead installation there has been a stain there for over a year. I have tried window cleaner and multi-surface cleaner but no success. I had an 'easy clean' treatment applied to the windows when I bought them and wonder if the fix to remove this stain then will also affect the treatment. <Q> Had hazy marks from lead flashing on conservatory roof. <S> I thought I'd try 'Silvo' which is non-abrasive and used for cleaning fine silver. <S> Success!! <S> Crystal clear glass after <A> An ideal cleaning solution that shouldn't impact a treatment to the surface should have a neutral pH level. <S> Unfortunately a mild solution will not have an impact on lead. <S> After prolonged weathering you will end up with lead sulphite , lead sulphate , and lead carbonate which are highly insoluble. <S> A cleaner containing phosphoric acid (some oven cleaners) should make the lead water-soluble to be cleaned off. <A> We are using big wipes scrub and clean wipes don’t know <S> what’s in them <S> but it works. <S> I’ve also just found another r link and they say treat the lead with pagination oil and this will stop it happening again. <A> I normally wouldnt answer a question in my following way, but I do not want to take credit for it. <S> My conservatory glass roof has lead staining from the lead flashing immediately above. <S> I have tried many cleaning products and managed to remove some of it with Ciff kitchen cleaner. <S> A friend then suggested Cillit Bang. <S> I couldn't believe after leaving it on the stain for just 5 minutes the stains just disappeared. <S> I can't promise it doesn't also remove the self-cleaning layer on my glass but to see the stain disappear is amazing. <S> I am truly impressed but anyone trying this product should proceed carefully and maybe try it on an area that doesn't show. <S> For me it is a final answer to this problem <S> but you must use it in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions and wear appropriate protective eye wear and gloves. <A> As with the previous response - I would not normally get engaged with this sort of dialogue, however seems this is a tricky one to solve. <S> My streaks were not as bad being the result of only a few years. <S> I googled and found the cillit bang solution, I could not find the exact product tried the white one, another bathroom cleaner and epic fail. <S> Applied with a damp cloth, left for 10 mins - cleaned off with hose and mop, major improvements a few little white marks ( probably down to my ineptitude in application ) <S> ...... if I did it again I am sure it would be completely clear, but even now it is more than good enough. <S> So Try Hob Brite <A> I'd use fine wire wool. <S> It's slightly abrasive, should remove the deposits but shouldn't touch the glass.
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The marks came off a treat with really minimal rubbing with a soft cloth moistened with the product. I also found a thread where someone recommended Hob Brite - so off I popped to Poundland and sourced some.
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Air Compressor Quick Connect Coupler Won't Latch Background: I just purchased a new air compressor. I was surprised to see that the collar on the quick connect coupling is retracted (I'm used to pulling the collar back to insert the male fitting), but figured that it would latch when the male fitting was placed inside. Question: When placing the appropriate-size male fitting into the quick connect, I cannot get the collar to move. The air compressor came with two of the quick connect couplings, and both have the same behavior. What am I doing wrong? Cheers. <Q> Some female quick disconnects latch the ring back as you describe. <S> I don't expect you have an issue with the female quick disconnect on the compressor. <S> I suspect that while your male fitting appears to be the right "size", it is of an incompatible type. <S> There are many different types that appear the same when held at arms length. <S> See <S> this answer for a primer on the various types of quick-connects. <A> I was sent replacement parts. <S> These fit and worked great. <S> Not sure what was wrong with the other pieces... <A> After applying the oil, I tried using a flat head screwdriver to gently push the collar forward, which did not work. <S> But i then tried again to attach the male connector, and after trying a few times and pushing firmly, the collar snapped forward. <S> I also noticed that it helps to make sure all air has been let out of the tank before i try connecting the coupling. <S> This also seems to help the collar come forward and the male connector to snap in properly.
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One quick fix that worked for me is to put some oil onto the quick connect coupling, above and below the collar to try and get it to move better and snap forward.
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How to fix gaps between flooring planks in mid-1800s house? I live in a mid-1800s house, which I plan to sell this Spring. The original (I think) wood flooring has gaps between the planks, some pretty sizable (photos follow). Is there any good fix for this? I've seen people use wood filler/epoxy, and it didn't seem to turn out well. Perhaps doing that and painting/dying it black might work better. I've heard the "old" solution was to pack those spaces with rope, but I don't think that would look better than the status quo. Any suggestions? Photos, big gap: Medium gap: Small gap: <Q> I think those gaps in the floor are part of the charm of old wood flooring. <S> I definitely would not slosh epoxy all over them. <S> I guess it partly depends on the style of the house and the type of buyer you're trying to attract. <S> Original wood flooring may be attractive to some people if it's restored nicely. <A> you might be able to make some shims, and stain them to match, but frankly I don't think it'd turn out well... <S> but best bang for buck is a juggle between fix it properly (which'll cost a mint but up your house value), cover it up if you think it's that bad, or leave it. <S> Some people will find it to better demonstrate it's "antiqueness" <A> I have a house just like this. <S> We do all of these: <S> fill with wood filler - definitely doesn't look great - no matter what folks say <S> leave - <S> but then you get bits of paper and crap in them <S> so you have to vacuum <S> spend some time putting a piece of pine wood in there with wood glue <S> - it won't match at first. <S> Note, don't stain a piece of wood you put in. <S> Just get some pine and put it in. <S> It will darken over time to match. <S> Also, your floors will look awesome if you get them sanded and varnished... <A> I have seen flooring experts for old homes using different sizes of rope in the gaps. <S> They actually dye or stain the rope to match the floors and then glue them into place. <S> I have seen the results <S> and I have to say that it looks good and adds character. <A> I have the same issue in my early 20th century home. <S> It does not hold up over time - perhaps only 2-3 years at best. <S> Our gaps are not wide enough for rope. <S> There is no subfloor (the floor is attached directly to the joists below), so I do have direct access to the underside of the floor from the basement. <S> I have decided to use black round window spline of various widths as a "backer rod" in the gaps along with Gorilla Tape (rated stickier than duct tape) to seal the gaps from below. <S> Not sure how long this will last, but this should prevent dirt/dust from filtering down through the cracks and will eliminate the basement light from peaking up through the gaps as well. <S> Inexpensive, tedious, DIY project - I'm hoping for a minimum of 5-7 years. <S> I'm planning to cover the taped areas with a removable ceiling in between each joist due to a low ceiling height in the basement. <A> This is an old question, but since the system just bumped it to the front page... <S> Those gaps are there for a REASON! <S> Wood is a natural product. <S> It expands and contracts with the seasons. <S> Those gaps allow the wood to move without splitting, buckling, warping and ruining your floor. <S> If your house was built in the mid-1800s, then those are probably pretty wide boards (especially in comparison to modern "strip" flooring) and will require more room to move. <S> You don't give us any perspective, but I'll bet the bigger gaps exist between wider boards, while the smaller gaps exist between narrower boards. <S> You have to consider though, that for a wide gap, enough rope to fill the gap might actually bluge up during the summer when the wood expands, squeezing the rope (which is also absorbing moisture and expanding). <S> Once the rope has no more internal space to contract horizontally, it will expand vertically - some down under the flooring, some up into the room. <S> This can potentially be a trip hazard. <S> The only thing I see there that I'd even consider fixing is in the first picture where the edges of the boards are feathered somewhat. <S> However, that feathering looks like it's due to the board having been cut near the edge of the tree an it got into the rounded exterior of the tree. <S> They do <S> not look like they're the result of damage where a sliver of wood was chipped up then peeled back, widening the gap as the tear followed the grain.
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When we had the floors refinished, they used wood fill for the gaps. When desired, rope could be used to fill those gaps because it is soft and pliable and will compress when the boards expand, then expand when the boards contract.
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What is a proper high-quality sub-floor preparation for porcelain tile floor installation I am preparing to do a kitchen remodel where I am replacing an existing tile floor with a new porcelain tile floor. The old floor that is being replaced has several areas where it is not level and some areas where the old tiles have cracked, possibly because the sub-floor is not stiff enough. I am interviewing contractors to do this work and I really want a high-quality installation, even if I have to pay more for it. I have a book about remodeling by that TV guy Mike Holmes and he says that the proper way to prep a subfloor for tiles is: First, make sure you have a 1 1/4-inch sub-floor before any tile goes down. That means if there's a 5/8-in layer of oriented strand board, then you need at least another 5/8-inches on top of that. Use oriented strand board, conventional plywood, or better yet, a waterproof product like WonderBoard or HardiBoard which are concrete-based products. Whatever you use should be set onto the existing sub-floor and glued and screwed to the joists underneath. Finally, I recommend a waterproof membrane on top of that such as Ditra from Schluter. It's a bright orange waffled plastic that's put down right before laying the tile. It helps with water-tightness and provides just a little bit of flex, which allows the tile to absorb impact. I have prepared a scope of work describing that I want this done and sent it to some local tile laying companies for quotes. The responses I have received have indicated that this is not the way they would recommend prepare a floor for laying tile and they recommend alternatives. After I received those responses I went to a tile store and asked about this and they also said not to do this. I have three questions Is the way described in the book a good way to prepare floor forlaying tile? Why would he write this in his book if it wasn't a good/standard way of preparing the subfloor? If you were having a tile floor installed in your house what subfloor preparation would you want assuming you are looking for the highest quality installation? I guess I am also wondering why I am getting pushback on this from the installers? <Q> One comment on the advice you read is that I don't see a thing in there about deflection - evidently <S> Mike Holmes is sure that if he merely has 1-1/4" of subfloor, all is good. <S> Real tile specs tend to involve a concept called deflection, and that's the distance part of the floor system moves when loaded, relative to the span you measure over. <S> L/360 is <S> a typical spec - L/180 is twice as bad. <S> (It's usually a lowercase L, but on the computer I'm using a capital to be clear that it's an L.) <S> I happen to have a 3/4" subfloor that's L/587, so it really doesn't need another half-inch on that basis. <S> Consider what a tile manufacturer has to say... <S> (I'm not going to cut and paste their extensive text here, or rewrite it all) <S> but for one thing they specifically mention setting the backer board in a mortar bed, not "gluing" it down. <S> I'd also venture to sneak in that if you really want "the best" (and will you pay for it these days) look at the "old fashoned mortar bed" (TCNA (Method F145-02)) mentioned at the end of their article. <S> That, of course, means you need to establish an adequately rigid base 3/4" or 1-1/4" + tile thickness below <S> the surrounding floor level, which is why it's not popular these days. <S> But it was a VERY good method, as a lot of old houses demonstrate. <S> Kinsman Tile <A> That sounds like overkill. <S> The Ditra underlayment is good for specific applications like tiling over a concrete slab on grade. <S> It's pretty expensive and something like the paintable elastomeric membranes like RedGuard were cheaper per sq ft and do a similar job. <S> Most of the times I've seen floor tile crack <S> it's been because the wrong tile was used. <S> Tile is rated for hardness by the Porcelain Enamel Institute. <S> Their rating is commonly called the PEI rating and a higher rating denotes a stronger, more robust tile. <S> PEI 4 is good enough for floors, PEI 5 is better. <S> Most porcelain tiles have at least a PEI 4 rating. <S> I've seen tiles crack that were laid directly over plywood with thinset. <S> They were replaced with tiles with a higher PEI rating without additional underlayment and they never cracked. <S> Plywood is stiffer than OSB. <S> If you know you're going to be tiling over an area <S> it's better to go with T&G plywood instead of OSB. <S> If you put two layers of OSB, then the Ditra you're really building up the floor and can have issues where the floor levels don't match up. <S> Then thinset and tiles on top. <A> The two more important concerns for laying tile is the deflection of the floor and how stable it is. <S> The right way to deal with deflection is by measuring it, and that will tell the installer what is necessary to make the installation work. <S> If the subfloor is solidly constructed, a typical installation would involved 1/4" cement board attached with thinset and screwed to the joists, with the joints taped and mortared. <S> The tile then goes on top of that. <S> The board might be thicker if the floor needs more stiffness or to match the height of adjoining floors. <S> Ditra can be useful if you have a large area <S> and you need to provide a bit of flex <S> and/or you need an area to be fully waterproof, but it's probably overkill for a kitchen. <A> Foremost, go with your contractor's advice. <S> That being said I would not hire a contractor who thinks Mike Holmes' technique is inadequate. <S> I think his show & his book are adequate for qualifying his technique. <S> Also remember most of the advice you get when you talk to other people will give you a snapshot of how ignorant your locale is to quality standards and professionalism. <S> In other words if the guy wants to throw mortar down on top of your floor and tile it's probably because he has been getting paid to do it for years. <S> This is a huge problem in the construction industry today where unethical cheap work trumps professional quality and cost. <S> Mike Holmes exposes this in his show in spectacular fashion. <S> So make sure you're not listening to the money maker job taker and that your advice comes from a moral and concerned professional. <S> Good luck sounds like your going to need it. <S> By the way: deflection is for architectural engineering something you would test on materials in a lab not on a job site. <S> Also the step up step down argument is a planning consideration and should not compromise a quality standard such as having a subfloor of 1-1/4". <S> Only after you met the minimum standard would you consider possible ways to make a flush step. <S> In other words you wouldn't tile over a 1/2" subfloor just to make the tile flush. <S> Again good luck and don't sweat it; most people can get inadequate work done without even noticing it. <S> Out of sight is out of mind just not for a real professional. <A> 3/4" OSB, then 1/2" plywood screwed down, thinset mortar first then screw down 1/4" cement board. <S> Thinset mortar again then lay tiles, that's how I did my house <A> Ive also used 2x4 blocking with pl400 and nailed between joist. <S> Every 8". <S> Two have hardwood and tile flush. <S> Ive been told once by a home owner i was trying to cut corners lol. <S> The subloor was super solid ?
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For most installations you're good with just using a cement underlayment like Hardiboard that is secured to the subfloor with screws and laid on a bed of thinset mortar.
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How do I secure a one-armed toilet paper holder, which constantly slips off the mount? I have a toilet paper holder attached to a tile wall with a single finger bracket (per the manufacturer). The holder constantly slips the finger bracket, goes loose, and leans to the side. The finger bracket is quite secure to the wall and does not budge. How can I secure it? I'd rather not have to unscrew the bracket from the wall to repair this. I would prefer to avoid having to mount it "permanently" via epoxy. Click for full size image <Q> This looks like a bad piece of engineering design to use a slip finger bracket to mount a cantilever paper holder. <S> This type of bracket would work pretty good for a towel bar that was mounted on both ends or possibly for a soap dish that was mounted right on center. <S> I can suggest two possible courses of action that would solve the problem as long as the finger bracket on the wall was very nice and secure. <S> You could mix up some good quality epoxy (the kind that takes 24hours to set up) and force it into the finger slots on the bracketand on the fingers of the wall bracket. <S> Then install the roll hangerand let the epoxy set up. <S> Note that this is a pretty permanent fixand future removal would require cutting the hanger off with a dremeltool or some such. <S> Alternatively you could clean up the wall and hanger assembly toremove any oil and soap film and then re-install the hanger. <S> Rubbingalcohol can work great for this. <S> Then run a small bead of clearsilicon sealer all around the perimeter of the bracket. <S> This sealer will take the twisting load off the fingers and transfer it tothe tile which should stop your problem. <S> For removal the siliconsealer can be cut away with a razor blade. <S> If it is the finger bracket on the wall that comes loose then you'll have to investigate how it is currently mounted. <S> If the two screws there are already go directly into a stud or wooden cross member then some longer screws may be in order. <S> If the screws just go into some cheap plastic hollow wall anchors then you may want to investigate some more secure types of metal anchors such as toggle bolts or molly screws. <A> Try tapping the fingers lightly with a hammer (test fitting often) until they are bent closer to the wall enough. <S> Otherwise you could unscrew the bracket and bend the fingers with pliers, but it may take a few tries before the desired fit is achieved. <S> Another possibility may be make the fingers of the wall bracket fit more tightly by covering them with a small strip of plastic, perhaps like that from some blister packaging; some heavy paper might work alternatively. <A> Were you the one who installed these? <S> I have a similar one in my own house. <S> It came with a black rubber gasket that goes behind the bracket. <S> Once it is tightened, the gasket stabilizes the bracket to the wall. <S> The gasket is easy to miss; mine was in with the advertising of additional products. <S> I had to contact customer service to find out about it.
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It might be possible to bend the fingers of the bracket on the wall inward a bit so that it pulls the holder more snug to the wall giving it enough traction to hold more firmly without being permanently glued in place.
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Why should I repair/replace roof just because it's old? My roof is old. Shingles are worn down, some are torn, and there are some nails coming through some shingles. I'm being told by some contractors there for other reasons that my roof needs immediate repair or replacement. They question they're not really answering though is why do I need to repair anything when my roof is functioning perfectly fine. There are no leaks, no bowing, no problems other than it 'being old'. So.. What are the problems with simply having an old roof?What am I missing - why should I repair/replace my roof when it is functioning perfectly?Why should I not wait for bad weather to tear up the roof and then rely on an insurance claim to cover damages? <Q> "Shingles torn" "Nails showing" You very probably have leaks you have not yet noticed. <S> If you re-roof now, you might not rot out the roof deck and need to replace it as well. <S> If you wait until you have leaks you notice, you may find that you're rotted out the roof deck and be looking at a far larger bill. <S> However - don't hire ANY contractor that drives by, looks at your roof, and rings your doorbell offering to replace it for you. <S> That sort of "drive-by marketing" is typically associated with the absolute lowest form of "wannbe contractors", often mobile units that won't be around when the new (shoddily installed from the worst materials) roof leaks. <S> Look up established local firms and invite them to make a bid. <S> Your insurance adjuster is wise to the tactic you plan to engage in - if the roof was not maintained in good condition, they will probably deny the whole claim (you neglected the house) rather than buy you a new roof. <S> They know what old shingles look like, even after they have been torn up by bad weather. <S> They probably even have "before" pictures of it, with dates, in their files. <A> During the high season (when you'll need it urgently) it's harder to find and schedule a roofer to come out. <S> Insurance won't cover all your losses : if it covers any losses. <S> Much damage can be hidden from view. <S> When it's not an emergency you can get competitive bids and get a good price for a roof that will last until you die and then some. <S> You don't indicate a lack of funds. <S> As long as you pay for quality, your next roof will last your remaining lifetime: why not get under it now? <A> Because the rot from leakage will damage the sheeting and anything else it gets to. <S> When the roof comes off, the foolishness is exposed. <S> Insurance does not cover neglect. <S> Our neighbors tried this little ploy and nearly had the house condemned. <S> One wall rotted out, cripple wall nearly ready to collapse. <S> "Functioning perfectly" is only a WAG, not an actual fact proven by inspection. <S> Unless you've pulled up the roofing and inspected the sheeting, you do not know this. <S> Not leaking usually means not leaking into the living area, therefore unnoticed for several years. <S> Torn shingles and exposed nails is a pretty good indicator of what will be found. <S> As my father once said, good roofing covers a multitude of sins, you can get by with just about anything as long as the roof doesn't leak. <S> Given this is Western Oregon, I've had plenty of experience over the years back it up. <S> A dry shambles is better than a pretty McMansion with melting walls any winter of the year.
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Maintenance is cheap, repair is expensive, crippling and you might not be able to get a mortgage to cover the renovation necessary to reclaim occupancy.
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How often should heat strip turn on for a heat pump unit? I have noticed my heating bill is higher than my cooling bill now that I have installed a Heat Pump. I am trying to find a way to reduce this winter cost but am not sure how often electrical heat strips should run, if at all. I have never selected the "emergency heating" setting for my unit, its always in standard heating when in operation. I am in a CA climate which rarely ever drops below freezing so I was expecting the heat strips to never come on. Was hoping to find a way to permanently turn off the heat strips but don't want to risk damaging the unit. I heard from a source that "it is best to increase your heat setting by only two degrees at a time to prevent your auxiliary heat from operating." But unless your coil is in danger of freezing, why would your heat strips ever need to come on? Basically, even during ideal conditions where outside temperature is above freezing, "emergency heat" is NOT used, and your only heating by two degrees F, should the heat strips still run for X hours a day during the heating season to maintain proper HP operation? <Q> I've been told that a properly sized heat pump should run almost non-stop during the days that the temperatures are the normal low for the season and area. <S> Any lower than the normal seasonal lows would kick the strips on. <A> This might need to be confirmed by others, but the emergency/auxiliary heat is a subsystem of the heat pump that does not need to be turned on at all. <S> I own a heat pump too with electric heat backup. <S> It kicks on when the temps are below 30 degrees or the temp is raised to much manually, more than 2 degrees higher. <S> Otherwise it does not come on. <S> My bill for the winter is higher than the summer. <S> This may only account for the lights since the lights are on longer in the winter than summer, maybe. <S> I am located in Maryland where the temps swing way up, and way down. <A> well below 40F.Utility financed heat pumps are required to have an outdoor thermostat installed to prohibit the heat strips from energizing unless the ambient temperature is 40F or below. <S> This is the point at which heat pumps performance begins to degrade. <S> Defrost modes require the strips since defrost is the AC mode which melts the outdoor coils ice but also cools down the home we are trying to heat, defrosts may last as long as 15 minutes. <S> Some units in areas as California have no strips installed.
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Heat pumps do not need a heat strip unless the outdoor temperatures dip
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Baseboard lumber choices for staining I am in the process of selecting lumber for my baseboards. My flooring is prefinished maple, dark red/brown, stained, looks great. I was thinking about also smooth finished but not stained maple but someone told me maple doesn't stain well. It is also expensive (approx. $4/ft) What are some good choices for baseboard lumber if I just want to stain? I plan to go with plain 1 x 6 (3/4 x 5-1/2 or better yet 5/8 x 5-1/2). E.g. would oak be a better choice? <Q> If you want to color maple, you might investigate dyes rather than stains - leaves much more of the grain visible. <S> Has a somewhat greenish cast, but dark stain will obliterate it. <S> Responding to Jack's comment: I've posted this one before - <S> it's from "fowl weather custom birdcalls" and provides a nice sample of what you can do with dyes on maple. <S> I suppose it may be possible to use dyes in a manner that gets less clarity, but my overall experience is that dyes leave more "wood character" visible than most stains do. <S> My personal preference is to let the wood be wood, and use a different wood if I want a different color; but I have seen nice things done with dyes. <A> I used poplar in my home, it is cheap compared to other off the shelf materials. <S> It took stain very well, but a word of caution, the heartwood of poplar is green, takes stain well, and when it ages it turns a nice shade of brown from UV exposure. <S> The sapwood is the bad guy here, it is really light in color, as soaks up the stain, so much so, that if there are any dark pigments that make up the stain color, for some reason the sapwood really accentuates the dark color, when on the green heartwood it responds differently to the color of stain being applied, so much it looks like 2 different stains are being used. <S> This problem was not evident when I built my home in 1989, poplar then was pretty much all heartwood. <S> My remodel that I finished last year proved different using poplar. <S> Poplar today has a lot more sapwood, and just a little heartwood which makes it difficult to stain evenly. <S> Maple has the same problem but for a different reason, but the fix is the same. <S> There are "wood conditioners" out there that are applied first to soak up into the softwoods or "curly grain" like maple that will let the stain soak in evenly, at least more evenly than without the conditioner. <S> This may be the simplest fix for the problem, though there are other ways to get past the problems, but they include a lot of trial and error- time consuming. <A> I would go with pine because it has a look that is close to maple but not exactly <S> and I think a good pine trim is probably my preferred wood type. <S> Oak would stand out too much. <S> You want something to complement what you have not draw a person's eyes to it. <S> So I would say pine or maple (if you can find maple trim in your area).
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If you're going to stain it anyway, poplar (in the lumber trade that almost always means tulip poplar) is a nice, cheap, stable wood.
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How do I keep my house cool especially my terrace during summer? I live in Bangalore in an apartment on the top floor and during summer, my terrace (built of concrete) absorbs a lot of heat. When I come home and switch on the fan, it ends warming my room and it is not cool throughout the night. The sun doesn't shine through windows or the walls much since there are trees in my apartment which help, but it is the terrace that takes a lot of heat especially during afternoons. Can anyone give any simple DIY approach on how I can keep my terrace cool. (I am not looking to install any kind of air cooler.) Some options I thought of were: Hang a cloth on some poles to cover the terrace. Keep plants on the terrace (not something my association will approve) Does any one have any ideas? <Q> Im not sure what building codes or home owner's restrictions there may be <S> but this is a common solution: <S> There are many types of variations that are tied to houses, stand alone, etc. <S> It is basically a set of posts (or house attachments) with a top plate and vertical boards (pressure treated of course) affixed. <S> This example then has cross bracing <S> so there will be less warping over time. <S> The key is to align the tall boards East to West so that as the sun rises its angled rays do not penetrate to the patio. <S> The height and spacing of the vertical shade boards is based on sun angle mid summer since that is when the sun is highest. <S> Do it right <S> and there should only be sun on the patio when the sun is lower in the sky (winter, spring, fall) as well as possibly early morning and late evening. <A> Apartment associations don't usually like fabric on poles either since they stand out visually and can blow off in the wind. <S> Maybe they will install a retractable awning or recommend one for you. <S> I suspect most of the heat is still coming through the window at some point during the day. <S> Blocking the sunlight on the inside doesn't do much. <S> The sunlight will still be converted to heat inside your apartment. <S> A window shade on the outside of the window may help. <S> You could try putting something reflective on the patio and walls that get a lot of direct sun. <S> a white vinyl or fabric mat, perhaps. <S> But choose the placement well as it may just reflect the light into the window! <S> I know <S> you said you do not want an air cooler, but any evaporating water will help keep the patio cool. <S> We use patio misters around here. <S> But simply mopping the patio with water once in a while or hanging some moistened towels. <A> I live in Lahore and all both weathers are at their extremes in this city; it gets up to 55 °C in summer and -2 <S> °C in winters. <S> I also live on the top floor and face immense heat, plus I am not allowed to alter the house <S> so I can't put insulation as I don't own the space. <S> So I have installed wooden shades above the windows. <S> Also I have covered my roof top with a porous Green house Sheet at a 6 feet height. <S> It all cost me around Rs 2000 <S> (~$30 USD), <S> but it has significantly reduced heat on my ceiling. <S> It does get warm but not insanely hot. <A> If Option 2 won't be approved and Option 1 will, go with Option 1. <S> It should work. <A> You essentially need to stop the sun from hitting the terrace surface by any means possible. <S> A shade structure of some type. <S> Plants help too because they transpire moisture, cooling the air. <S> But if they overly restrict airflow the cooling effect is offset by lack of circulation. <A> When in Bangalore, we used to live on the top floor of a 13-storey building and there aren't (m)any trees that reach up that high to block the sun. <S> Your option 1 won't work optimally, simply because the sun moves around too much, and unless you have some mechanism / person moving the cloth around to make sure your entire terrace is in shadow, you'll never be able to completely cover the thing. <S> We used to have plants on the terrace that the builder installed. <S> After several cycles of water leaking into the master bedroom + the builder's fixing stuff, the decision was to remove said plants, all the dirt above our apartment etc., and to just retain an empty terrace. <S> So unless you're willing to take on this (even slight) risk, this isn't a viable option either. <S> If it were me, I would use an air-conditioner at least in one or two rooms for an hour or so after returning home. <S> Alternatively, a few water-filled "matkas" (clay pots) scattered around the house, specially where you have some sort of air flow, will help cool the place down with no electricity. <A> This is the cheapest and the best which I am planning to install on my terrace.
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A light fabric shade on the terrace will cool terrace considerable and also help to make a shade for small parties.
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How do I level a sloping floor that has been tiled? We have a large room that we want to use as a bedroom and it has been tiled, over a concrete slab. On further inspection we now realise that there is a slope of approximately 5cm from one end of the room to the other. There are no cracks in the tiles, and I don't want to pull them up, if I can help it. I would like to put something like timber laminate over the top, but need to level the floor first. What can I use that will adhere to the tiles and enable me to fix laminate, or floating floor, over the top. <Q> The subfloor needs to be flat , not level. <S> Now, leveling out the floor may have other benefits, of course. <S> But, strictly speaking, it isn't necessary for the type of flooring you want to install. <A> There is no reason your tile is any worse of a binding agent than concrete. <S> As long as you clean and etch tile then hit it with the specified primer <S> you should be good to go. <S> Doesn't hurt to call manufacturer or check their website <S> but I don't see anything wrong with this at all. <S> You would have to use some sort of floating floor over this. <A> Self-levelling underlayment (or floor leveling compound) - basically runny, usually gypsum - based cement product. <S> Read the label before buying - get one that can manage the depth you need, or figure out how many layers you'll need to pour it in - some can be poured full-depth, others may need to be 1/2 inch or 1 cm at a time. <S> One example (image from US Gypsum, the maker) <S> - there are MANY brands and variants. <S> There should be no need to etch the tile. <S> Nothing is going to be applying "peeling" forces to the interface, so the leveling compound sits there on the tile which sits there on the concrete - it's going to stay put until the concrete slab fails, if that ever happens.
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There's actually no need to level the subfloor to install a hardwood or laminate floor. This type of material is often successfully used over much less ideal substrates.
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How to install a new window header that overlaps an old one I'm attempting to move some windows. I have an engineer drawing up the exact plans of how to make sure it is structurally sound, but my question here is more on actual implementation. In one or two locations I will be installing a new header of fairly significant size (~7') which is higher and offset from an existing header. This is a grade level previously converted carport that I'm leveling the floor of and incorporating into part of the house. The existing header is where the garage entrance use to be. It looks like this (orange is new header for a window [approximate location, does not include structural components, just for visualization of what I'm trying to accomplish]). I have a hip roof and the ceiling joists for this particular location run parallel with the exterior wall the distance of both the old and new headers. How can I add the new header safely and how much of the existing header do I have to remove? My only thinking is to punch some holes and build some temporary supports perpendicular under the top plate... lots of work! <Q> Based on your description of the loading, I wouldn't be too concerned about supporting it at all unless you're going to leave the framing out for any significant period of time (days for example). <S> If anything it might sag a fraction of an inch, but you'll true it up when the new header goes in. <S> You'll want to remove the old one first and re-frame that section of the wall, then cut in your new rough opening and put the new one in. <S> Pretty simple, <S> and I've done this numerous times with patio doors. <S> If you're concerned about the weight, consider that there are quite a few houses out there dating from the time before building codes became common that don't have proper headers over windows and doors at all. <S> Also, I've done a couple garage demolitions where I had a hard time removing enough structure to make it collapse. <A> If you have aluminum wrapped fascia, you will most likely have 2X material for a sub fascia, that's even better, unless it is a cover over an existing 1X fascia. <S> When you layout your cut on the existing studs where the new header will meet them, that itself, since it will be drawn as a straight line across the studs, cut as a straight line, from stud to stud, if any settling does occur, it will be picked back up when the jack studs are set under the header. <S> One suggestion, use LVL for the header. <S> Although all wood swells with humidity, LVL material to me is a lot more stable than regular framing. <S> For example, when I framed my home, I used 2X12 headers everywhere. <S> Back then I know wood shrunk over time, so I cut my jack studs in 1/8" longer than needed. <S> Well it did, so much it still put a 1/4" dip in my ceiling over my doors and windows. <S> So much for trying to compensate. <S> Not that you will need something that wide for a header, it is just to make a point about how much regular framing moves. <A> Build a quick temp wall inside about 3' in <S> so you got room to work. <S> If the ceiling rafters don't bear weight on it just try and bridge over temp.wall to keep.things up. <S> The temp wall is top and bottom plate and 2' centers with a stiff back 2x4 nailed a cross at center. <S> Maybe a angle brace 2x4 0n the other. <S> Put temp wall.in place and demo your wall. <S> The wall that remains at the corner will hold more than you think. <S> Good luck.
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Even if it sagged a little while you are getting your new header in will be of no concern. That way when everything is done, you will not have a dip in the ceiling and the cracking drywall related to wood movement at the header, from using regular framing. I've done several jobs where I had to install headers that were missing in the first place. The weight of the roof will be so little in that area, that if you have a fascia board, that will hold it together in a straight line for the short time while you are adding the header. Yes it put a hump in my top plate, but I figured it will shrunk and lay flat over time.
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Is it OK to re-paint a gas-range grill with paint? I have a gas range (gas stove - indoor) for cooking, and the metal grate that goes over the top has some areas of rust. If I was to sand down the rusty areas, would it be advisable to paint it with a high-temperature rated paint, such as Rutland 1200 Degree Brush-on Stove Paint or Black Porcelain Repair Enamel ? The main concern I have is not about the effectiveness of the paint product at adhering, but the safety considerations of having a paint in contact with a flame when preparing food in a pot on-top. <Q> Given the direct flame exposure, and that the flames are actually quite a bit hotter than BBQ paint is rated for (1950C for natural gas, 2392C for propane) I'd suggest sticking to clean, coat with vegetable oil (wipe on a thin layer) and bake. <S> This makes a pretty good finish, and does not involve anything that's not going to happen in normal food preparation as far as "what might burn off." <S> Wikipedia on flame temperatures . <S> These are probably a touch high for "in practice", but given that they are also in Celsius, and the grill paint is rated in Farenheit, I'll stick with "grill paint will burn off." <A> Yes you can paint them with high heat BBQ grill paint. <S> You can find this paint at any hardware store, walmart or lowes etc. <S> It is rated for 1400 degrees normally. <S> Be aware, however, that the surface in contact with your pans will wear off fairly quickly. <S> The other way to renew the grates is to sand off any rust etc, then season them with vegetable oil in your oven. <S> This is the same technique as one would use for a griddle. <S> They will not be jet black, but will be rust free and look like a professional range top. <A> Yes, the paint on the range grills is only rated to 950 degrees (hence why you aren't suppose to put them in the self cleaning oven).
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I personally would paint the grates, then burnish the paint off where it makes contact with the pans so the paint doesn't transfer onto the pans.
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Should I replace my magnetron? Is there anything else upstream of the mode stirrer? I have a very nice over-the-range microwave that died after 6 years of use (or after 8 months of renting to a very messy person). To replace with the same model used would be cost over $250, thus I decided to trouble shoot it. If i place a cup of water in the microwave everything seems to work, but the water does not get hot. I verified the mode stirrer rotates freely, and that it's motor actively turns when the microwave is on. The inside of the wave-guide, the motherboard, and the magnetron are surprisingly clean given the state the rest of device was in. Because the magnetron is the most expensive part in the microwave, I'm a bit hesitant to order one and try swapping it out. Are their any other parts besides the mode stirrer I should consider testing / replacing before replacing the magnetron? <Q> Somewhere on the magnetron is a thermal fuse or cutoff. <S> When the magnetron gets to hot, it shuts off power to the device. <S> Some of these fuses reset once the device cools, some don't. <S> Sounds like you have one of the later. <S> While you're in there, clean the cooling fins on your magnetron with 409 or similar cleaner and a toothbrush. <S> Buildup of kitchen grease on them can make the magnetron run too hot. <S> Also check that the cooling fan, if any, is working, has a free air path, and is pointed at the magnetron fins. <S> When my microwave started cutting out, all it took was a good magnetron cleaning to get it running again. <S> Sounds like your thermal fuse is a one-shot though. <S> You might replace it with a auto-reset version. <A> Search for sci.electronics.repair and look up their microwave troubleshooting chart. <S> Check to see if the primary side of the high voltage transformer is getting 120V to rule out any switch/relay/thermal switches/ <S> other circuitry not giving it power. <S> If you are getting power now start troubleshooting the high voltage side. <S> Write down and mark where each high voltage wire goes and take a picture for reference. <S> Disconnect the transformer and check to see if it is open or shorted on all windings. <S> If that's not a problem, disconnect the diode, put it between a 9volt battery and your tongue to see if there is voltage going through. <S> It should only conduct one way. <S> You can also use a voltmeter and a 9volt battery to measure the voltage, will be much less. <S> You cant use continuity testing on these diodes as their forward voltage is too high. <S> battery + ---|>|---o voltmeter measure + battery - ---------o <S> voltmeter measure - Check the capacitor <S> , it should measure 10 or 20 Mohm as there is an internal resistor. <S> Your measurement may start off at a high point and then climb down. <S> That is normal. <S> You can look up videos online on how to test the capacitor. <S> If you have a capacitance setting on your meter, verify if it is within range specified on it. <S> Finally make/buy a resistor divider to divide the voltage from 5000 or so volts down to something low that your meter can handle. <S> Disconnect the magnetron and connect your divider with meter to the high voltage wires that used to connect to it. <A> Sounds like the magnetron is faulty. <S> Remove it and use a multimeter to test between one pin and the body and then also test from the second pin to the body of the magnetron. <S> If there is resistance , change it. <S> They are cheap on eBay .The <S> fuse from the large capacitor to the large transformer is usually blown as well. <S> Good luck
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If you are getting high voltage and still no heat, its most likely the magnetron. You can replace the fuse, temp rating is usually written on the device itself.
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Can I drill a 3 1/2" hole through 5 joists? I need to move a toilet to the other side of room approx. 6 ft I will have to drill a 3.5 in hole for the waste line in 5 floor joist on the second floor. Can I double them and still drill the 3.5 in hole and be in compliance? <Q> You can remove an section of the joist in the way. <S> You then build a box connecting the ends of the cut off joist to adjacent joists with perpendicular ties of the same dimensions of lumber. <S> 2X10's for example. <S> These ties transfer the load to the adjacent joists and give you an opening for plumbing or duct work. <A> Not unless they are 2x12 floor joists and it goes exactly through the center. <S> See IBC 2308.8.2 . <S> Sistering the joists would not effect this restriction, as it is an issue of the structural integrity of the framing member - not an issue of the required lumber dimension for a given span. <A> Bored Holes <S> Simply following building code, you'll only be allowed to bore a 3 5/64" hole through a 2x10 joist. <S> A 2x10 is actually only 9 1/4" deep, and building codes set the maximum hole size to 1/3 the depth of the member (9 1/4" / 3 = 3.08333"). <S> Adjusted Framing <S> If it was only a joist or two, boxing off the section might work. <S> Using this approach for 5 joists, may or may not be the best way to go. <S> Joists before Joists after Engineered Plans <S> Another option, is to consult an Engineer. <S> The Engineer will be able to provide a solution, and will include all the documentation required for the solution to pass inspection. <S> Engineer approved solution <S> NOTE: <S> This solution will not pass inspection without the proper documentation.
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You need to box off that floor joist. The maximum permissible boring in a floor joist is limited to 1/3 of the height of the joist (with a 2" minimum). While the above image was a solution designed by an engineer, it is not a solution that will work in all situations.
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Why is smoke entering my home through the fireplace? I recently moved to a new home with a wood burning fireplace. I've never owned one of these before and I want to become familiar with it. With a fire extinguisher and a pot of water ready, I placed some kindling and a dry log (that came with the house) in the fireplace, along with some clippings from a shrub and some clippings from a paper shredder. Then, I lit the fire and closed the door. Within a few minutes, a cloud of noxious smoke wafted into the room. Not knowing what could be wrong, I drowned the fire. After this, I stepped outside and observed that there was a little bit of smoke rising from the chimney. As someone who has never owned a fireplace before, what do I need to know to operate my fireplace safely and avoid smoke coming in my home? <Q> Damper closed - most likely. <S> Chimney blocked - while "damper closed" is a self-correctable version of this, if the fireplace has not been inspected there may be anything from bird nests to parts of a chimney in serious disrepair blocking the flue. <S> SO - before you become a statistic (of the chimney fire sort) <S> call a chimney sweep and <S> have the flue inspected to be sure it is in safe condition to use, and find out where the damper control is (often a lever or chain hanging down in the top of the fireplace.) <S> Another possible problem, particularly common if the fireplace & chimney is on the outside wall of the house, would be an excessively cold flue - sometimes curable by putting newspaper up into the throat of the fireplace and lighting it (before lighting the fire), to get air moving the right direction (up and out.) <A> Chimneys have a damper, which is a flap meant to be closed when the chimney is not in use. <S> Look up from the inside of the hearth <S> and you'll likely see a handle or chain. <S> Generally you cannot see the sky, even with the damper open. <S> If the house is new to you, but not new, have the chimney inspected, and the nice person who does the work will give you tips on fire starting. <S> Shrub clippings are likely too fresh to burn without excessive smoke. <S> My parents liked to start a bit of newspaper up the chimney to get the draft going, but that's purely a refinement of the technique. <S> When done, close the damper to prevent loss of conditioned air. <A> "Flue Blockage" is the generic answer, ranging from the sliding damper being closed to some kind of physical blockage. <S> A fire doesn't need to be totally blocked for there to be smoke come back into the room. <S> Two common cases not mentioned by Ecnerwal are <S> Depending on the type of your fireplace, many have a metal plate in the top of the fireplace which can be removed. <S> This makes the hot air rise in a flattened "S" shape across the top of the fire, before it goes up the flue. <S> If this plate has been dislodged or put back at an angle, it can impede the flow of air. <S> Your flue may be blocked with soot - loose, fluffy, sticky material from partly-burned material. <S> This is often cleaned by professionals. <S> I have cleaned it using a long stiff wire, the high-tensile steel wire used in farm fences. <S> With a section about 1.5 times the height of the flue (yes, I'm talking many meters) <S> I fed it into the flue and swirled it around in a spiral motion as I went. <S> This approach requires being able to clearly access the bottom of the flue, which means removing a heavy plate such as described in point 1. <S> Cleaning soot from your flue may need to be an annual event - it depends hugely on what you burn and <S> particularly how "green" the wood is - wood for burning should generally be seasoned by being stored for at least a year, for sap to evaporate. <A> I have a modern home that is sealed against draughts. <S> If I light my wood burner and all the windows are closed, as the fire burns it reduces the pressure in the room. <S> This causes the smoke to start coming back down the chimney and into the room. <S> So a suggestion would be to ensure you have a window open before you light the fire.
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It is a simple case of pressure - if there's less pressure in the room than in a slightly-blocked flue you will still get smoke blow back into the room.
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How can I contain epoxy while it sets up? So I finally built my portable home bar but I would like to have a bottle cap bar top with epoxy coating. However, I do not want to add wooden edges to contain the epoxy when I pour it over the bottle caps because of the wooden molding design that is already present. So what would be the most effective way to contain the epoxy when pouring? If any members have bar-building experience either at home or for commercial "alcohol-serving" establishments, thoughts and comments would be greatly appreciated. <Q> I have built a few and I used casting resin. <S> i got it from a fiberglass boat builder. <S> it set up very fast but is self leveling. <S> we let it drip off the sides and cleaned up the edges after it cured with a router and 440 and 1600 paper. <S> I have encased fishing lures, German coasters etc. <S> it cures hard as stone and very transparent. <S> It has to be poured monolithic and quickly. <S> We use plastic non stick auto body tools to move it around. <S> The results are incredible. <S> Like a 1/4 inch of glass. <A> Backyard boatbuilders often work with epoxy and polyester resin like Mr. Homes mentions. <S> Saran Wrap and waxed paper are popular and common materials for creating surfaces for containing these resins. <S> Masking tape will not be easily removed. <S> When selecting your resin, keep in mind that you may have some control over how fast it sets. <S> Some resins are made to set more quickly than others. <S> Some polyester resins can be made to set more quickly or slowly depending on how much catalyst you add. <S> All resins take time to set completely; they may get hard to the touch in 20 minutes to several hours, but they will take several days to reach complete and ultimate hardness. <S> If you haven't worked with it before, it can be a real advantage to have it set more slowly, giving you time to get it properly in place. <S> Also be aware that resins that set very quickly can generate lots of heat, and the thicker the application the more heat there will be. <S> Note that the resin does not "dry", <S> it undergoes a chemical reaction, so it doesn't change size. <S> If you pour it level with your moulding, it will stay level when its set. <S> Good luck! <A> You should try using electrical tape. <S> The tape peels off easily after the epoxy has set <A> I have not actually done this sort of top - I grew out of love with the idea before I got around to making one. <S> I have seen descriptions of building a temporary edge with wide masking tape. <S> You might want to reinforce that with a band clamp. <S> Of course, the little metal bottle caps are supposed to be nailed upside down on the floor, to give you the sensation of walking on little metal bottle caps nailed upside down to the floor. <S> Don't forget the coracle painted in stripes of Telephone Black and White White to serve as a guitar tidy for parties. <S> (Flanders and Swann, who are terribly House and Garden at #7B - of course.)
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I have successfully used electrical tape a multitude of times as a "cusp" around glass capillary tubing.
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How do I remove Cement Board that has been screwed in and is bonded to wood subfloor with thinset? I am in the process of purchasing a townhome and I am looking to tear up the existing 12" ceramic tile that covers the entire main level... an area close to 600 sq. ft. to make way for laminate flooring. Thinset has been used to bond the tile to the cement backer board, and the backer board has been screwed to the wooden subfloor. There is also some sort of adhesive/mortar bonding the cement board to the wooden subfloor. What tools will I need. Are there any techniques that would make it easier? Would trying to remove the cement board damage the subfloor? If so, would it be acceptable to repair damage with some sort of floor leveling compound? <Q> Here is an idea to consider. <S> If the tile comes off the cement board fairly easy, you could leave the cement board, scrape off the thinset and lay your foam and laminate over the cement board. <S> Just a thought depending on the overall thickness you need to achieve. <A> If it was installed correctly, the cement between cementboard and wood will be thinset and it will break off the wood fairly easily - it's put there to fill the space well, not to actually bond it particularly. <S> If it was glued down with construction adhesive you might be in for a more miserable time. <S> Safety glasses, gloves, and a sledgehammer to get started. <S> You'll probably have to break the board around the screws and remove them with locking pliers - the screwheads will be full of thinset and it would be tedious to get them to the point you can use a screwdriver on them again. <S> Beware of screws that break off - they can be sharp if you don't immediately remove the stub from the floor. <S> You can try driving a wide (4" or so) flat chisel under the edge to pop sections off, but straight sledgehammering will probably be faster. <A> I have the same problem and need to remove the tile, durock / cement board as well as the subfloor due to water leaks and mold. <S> Nothing is easy about this job, but scoring the floor with a skill <S> saw cement blade has certainly helped by making the job a little more manageable. <S> Back to work. <S> . . <A> It's best as a 2 person job with one person busting and one removing ideally. <S> Just did one today. <S> How to to do it? <S> An electric chipping hammer to take off the tile first. <S> Don't kill yourself,..... <S> have 2 people carry it out.
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Then a 2 lb hammer to knock some holes, then just pull off the durock in fairly big pieces, like 3 x 3. Open windows, block all vents and mask required!
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30amp dryer on a 50amp breaker? After many pitfalls, I have gotten my new dryer working. It's a Kenmore 81182 electric dryer. ( Manual from sears ; Sears website ). Very long story short, the neutral wire at the breaker box wasn't tight, at all, not in the least (how my previous dryer ran 10 years is a mystery). Got that squared away, but I am wondering if the 30amp dryer should be on a dedicated 50amp breaker. I had it off for two days and noticed all other appliances working in the house (fridge, washer, dishwasher, oven, stove, central heat/air). The panel at the box is not labelled, but a nice little piece of cardboard inside the box labels the slot "dryer". Shouldn't this appliance be a 30amp breaker? Or am I misreading "minimum circuit rating = 30amp"? Hope this question falls to DIY.SE. <Q> Your question is a bit convoluted, but the answer is very simple. <S> The breaker size must match or be lower than the wire amp rating feeding the circuit, and appliances on that circuit should not exceed the max rating of the wire or breaker. <S> In a dedicated circuit for a dryer, for example, the normal size of the circuit would be 30 amps. <S> 30 amps requires a minimum of #10 copper or #8 alu. <S> Do not use a larger breaker then what the current rating of the wire is rated for. <A> The 50 amp refers to the capacity of the circuit: in particular the wires. <S> The dryer can, and likely does, draw much less, similar to plugging a 60 watt light bulb into a socket rated for a 100 watt bulb. <S> This itself is not a problem. <S> That said 30amp is more typical. <S> If that circuit runs one 30 amp outlet ( http://fam-oud.nl/~plugsocket/NorthAm-3hd.html ) then a 30 amp breaker is proper. <S> While you can measure all the circuit elements starting with the wires to see if they match a 50 amp circuit, it's probably just easier to drop a 30 amp in there and be done with it. <S> 30 amp is paired with #10 wire (complicated exceptions beyond the scope of this answer apply). <A> The 50amp will not kick as easy as the 30amp. <S> So as long as your dryer is perfect you'll be ok <S> but you can be in real trouble if it over heats or something <S> goes wrong. <A> In reply to:"but I am wondering if the 30amp dryer should be on a dedicated 50amp breaker. <S> " <S> Your question may have been better worded as:"but <S> I am wondering if the 30 amp dryer should be on a dedicated 6 gauge copper wire circuit with a 50amp breaker." <S> The first duty of a breaker is to protect the wiring and in your case it sounds as though you have a 10 gauge copper wire circuit which normally requires a 30 amp breaker or less (the breaker amps can be smaller but normally not larger than the amps the wiring will carry). <S> The appliance is a secondary consideration because if it draws more than the circuit will carry then all that should happen is the breaker trips and no fire.
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With this wire size, the breaker must not be larger than 30 amps.
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How thick should should wood be to hold 160 to 180 pounds over a four-foot span? I want to paint the walls above my living room stairwell. The stairs are four feet wide. I'd like to cover the stairwell with wood boards so I can stand my ladder on the boards to paint the walls overhead. The length of the boards would be about 4' 5". How thick should my boards be? How wide should they be? What type of wood would be the best? I am about 165 pounds. <Q> Regular framing lumber will do what you need. <S> You will not want to place a ladder on individual 2Xs that make up your scaffolding. <S> The deflection on one 2X will feel enormous when you are on the top of a ladder. <S> 2X4s are cool as long as there are no large knots, and you fill the area. <S> #2 grade 2X needs to be watched for this. <S> Don't even use #3 grade. <S> I have seen 2X6s with 2" knots in them that would render them useless as a walk plank. <S> All said, please be mind full of the condition of the wood used for walk planks. <S> Since you are putting a ladder on all this, unify the surface with a sheet of plywood (1/4" will work in a pinch with a solid fill, if you spaced 2X6s, use 1/2") cut to fit within reason, 3' wide or larger will work and as long as feasible. <S> Believe me, you will not want the ladder to find even one gap big enough for a ladder leg to slip through. <A> Wood 2x4s should be adequate, especially since the ladder will be distributing the load to four points. <S> However, to allow a reasonable amount of ladder walking, non-precise foot placement, and protect against random defects, earthquakes, etc., 2x6s or larger would be entirely appropriate. <S> I bought a 20' 2x12 years ago for such a project and have made all kinds of useful steps, stools, and other furnishings with the pieces of that temporary scaffolding. <A> Have the boards underneath in "on edge" position would work best. <S> Here you can see a different version where we have 2x10 planks with a 2x6 "strong-back" (on edge) screwed to the bottom to keep the deflection to a minimum: <S> And from underneath
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Regular framing lumber in good condition held together with boards running perpendicular every 2' or less would work well.
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PVC pipe cutter not working properly I got a PVC pipe cutter a year or two ago, and used it once. Now I need to use it again and I am finding it extremely difficult to get it to cut the pipe. This cutter is of the style where there is a sharp disc on the outer edge and two black rollers on the inner edge with a screw-like mechanism to move the inner edge towards the outer one; one rotates the cutter around the pipe (or vice versa) while gradually tightening the screw. The first problem that I had (when I first used the device) was that I seemed to have to turn the screw an insane amount to get the pipe completely cut, to the point where the pipe itself is showing visible deformation (bowing). If the cut in the middle of the pipe this doesn't seem to be a problem (I'm using 3/4" schedule 40 PVC), but if I need to cut a short length of pipe (under 2-4 inches) this can damage the pipe. The second problem I only encountered now after not using the cutter for a year or so. The problem that I am having now is that, before I have tightened the cutter enough to cut all the way through the pipe, I am seeing some kind of black mark being made on the pipe itself. Since the rollers are black I can only suspect that the force between the pipe and the roller is causing part of the roller surface to come off. Obviously I don't want a black film compromising the integrity of the bond; I have tried sanding it but it doesn't completely come off. I wound up using a pocket knife to finish cutting the pipe but that is rather sloppy and the edges requires a lot of sanding. Is this just a crappy tool (my searches for "PVC pipe cutter" yield hardly any images similar to the type I am using, but it's what the hardware store had) or did I just get unlucky? I haven't really used it that much so I wouldn't think the problem would be the disc blade getting dull. I assume I probably need to throw away this cutter and get a new one, or is there some trick like applying oil to the roller or something? <Q> It sounds like you're using a crappy copper pipe cutter. <S> To cut PVC, you want one of these instead: <S> I've used mine to cut thousands of PVC pipes and it does the job quickly and easily. <S> You can probably find one for less than $10 and it will serve you well for life. <A> Are you sure you're using it correctly? <S> Clamp the pipe in the jaws loosely so that the blade just scores the pipe. <S> Rotate the cutter around the pipe, until you feel the resistance decrease. <S> Tighten the cutter a bit. <S> Repeat steps 2 through 3 until the pipe is cut. <S> If you're deforming the pipe, you're likely tightening the cutter too much at each interval. <S> Let the blade do the work, not the clamp. <S> A friend of mine holds the cutter by the crank in such a way, that as he rotated the cutter around the pip, the crank advances the blade. <S> However, I've only seen this technique used on soft copper pipes. <A> @iLikeDirt has posted a picture of the normal PVC pipe cutter. <S> Throwing it away is rather extreme - you may need to cut a copper pipe someday. <S> A handsaw works if you can saw straight (or use a miter box to saw straight.) <S> You should be able to remove black marks (and dirt, and grease, and printing on the pipe) with PVC pipe cleaner, which should be step one of getting a good PVC joint (cleaner, primer, and glue.) <S> This is an example of a deburring tool. <A> Even a new cutter could have a faulty blade. <S> I use the attached cutter for all pvc and abs. <S> http://www.toolup.com/Reed-TC3QP-Quick-Release-Tubing-Cutters-3-8-3-1-2
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Whatever you cut with, but especially with this type of cutter (which will deform the pipe and create a lip) you should ream the inside of the cut pipe to remove any burr and ensure full flow (on any type of pipe, not just PVC.) You either have the wrong cutter or a bad blade. I think the hardware store sold you a copper (or iron - they look the same except the iron-pipe version is built a lot heavier) pipe cutter, not a PVC pipe cutter.
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Adding a C wire to a new Honeywell WIfi Thermostat I am trying to install a new Honeywell touchscreen WIFI thermostat and need to add a C wire to my terminal inside the furnace (using the help found at How can I add a "C" wire to my thermostat? ). BUT.. I have a white wire that runs from the A/C unit outside that is connected to the C terminal on the furnace. If I run an 18/5 wire from the terminal to the thermostat, will this cause a problem or a short? I'm completely lost as to why there is a C wire running from the terminal outside to the A/C relay. I do not want to move the green wire as Honeywell suggests and lose the power to operate my blower manually. <Q> Terminals R and C are a 24V AC power supply, from a transformer on the control board in the furnace. <S> The control board also has relays: one is for the fan, one is for heat. <S> One side of the coils of these relays are connected to the G and W terminals respectively, and the other side is connected to C (one side of that 24V AC power). <S> Your thermostat is essentially a switch that connects the other side of the 24V AC power -- R -- to the other side of the relay coil (G and/or W, depending on fan-only or heat). <S> The air conditioner relay works the same way, but it's not on board the control board obviously. <S> So the white wire on C goes to one side of the relay, and the red wire on Y goes to the other side. <S> When the thermostat calls for A/C (by connecting R and Y) it completes the circuit and supplies 24V AC to the A/C relay coil (which then switches on the 240VAC main power to the compressor). <S> TL;DR: You are safe to use the C terminal despite the fact that the air conditioning relay is also connected to it, just like the other on-board relays are also connected to C. <A> There should be no problem connecting the C wire from your thermostat to the C terminal in the furnace. <S> Take a look at this diagram, which is a rough approximation of your system. <S> Notice the cable going to the condensing unit has a red wire connected to the Y terminal in the furnace, and a white wire attached to the C terminal. <S> When the thermostat calls for COOL , it does so by energizing the Y terminal (connecting R to Y ). <S> This provides power to the coil of the contactor, which allows it to close the contacts and turn the condensing unit on. <S> The other side of the contactor coil is connected to the C terminal, as to provide a complete circuit. <S> You'll notice in the first image that two relays in the furnace, the thermostat, and the contactor coil all connect to the same leg of the transformer. <S> This is because the thermostat basically works like a switch, connecting the R wire to the C wire through control circuitry. <S> Anything that needs 24VAC power, will be connected to both legs of the transformer. <A> Colors of the wires is misleading, in reality there are but 2 sides or legs of 24 volt power, The "Hot leg" Red, and the "Neutral leg" Common. <S> Common is called this because every 24 volt circuit terminates upon it to complete its circuit. <A> If you don't want to run a fifth wire (which, in our case would have been a real pain since the basement has a finished ceiling), and you don't mind losing the "Fan Run" feature, then jumper the yellow/red and the green/green wires together at the central air/heat circuit card, and move the green wire going to the thermostat from that circuit card to the C terminal on that circuit card, and then connect the green wire at the thermostat to the C terminal, <S> and then you will have power for the thermostat. <S> Instant common. <A> The other pictures and schematics are excellent. <S> The "C" wire is connected to Chassis ground, also known as 24V Common. <S> See picture, above. <S> In my system, a blue wire runs from the 24V Common to the thermostat but was unused at the old thermostat. <S> I connected it to the "C" terminal of the new thermostat. <S> In addition, the chassis of the blower assembly and PC board SHOULD be connected to earth ground via the AC power cable. <S> If so, and you CANNOT run a new wire, you can find the nearest earth ground to the thermostat and connect the "C" terminal of the thermostat to earth ground. <S> You won't lose your fan control wire. <S> All the other wires in the thermostat remain the same from old to new.
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If you have to run a new wire, and the PC board has no "C" terminal (very old PC board), you can connect one end of the new wire to any metal part of the blower assembly (chassis) and run the new wire to the "C" terminal in the new thermostat.
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how to fix rotten exterior wall Due to moisture my outside wall is rotten in a small section of house. Picture attached. What is the best way to fix this. <Q> I see that you have posted two questions about this situation. <S> I fear you have to address a couple of problems here. <S> First and foremost is to try to route water away from this area. <S> We can address this in another segment with more info on the area in question. <S> As far as the immediate problem, I am pretty sure you will have to remove the damaged sections of the rotted siding. <S> I also suspect there will be damage to the bottom plate and will have to be replaced as well. <S> Also inspect any insulation in this wall for moisture damage and mold. <S> I would be looking at replacing the sill plate with pressure treated lumber and seal it with caulk under the plate to avoid any water creeping indoors under the plate. <S> If you do not want to replace the entire height of the siding, you may be able to scab a matching replacement patch in there, but that could be unattractive. <S> The important thing here is to remove the rot and create a side wall that will not rot again. <S> You could use a PVC trim board (1X8 etc) or other rot resistant material. <S> If you are looking for step by step directions for cutting, removing, and replacing, that is a whole other discussion, depending on your level of expertise and tools you have available. <A> Shirlock's advice is good <S> but I want to add a few things: <S> However I think you have more than a standing water problem. <S> The water damage is pretty high up and it is pointing me to thinking that your gutters are not functioning . <S> I think your flashing may not be tucked over the gutters or something else. <S> We don't have pictures of that though. <S> Wood looks good as siding but need to be protected more which it doesn't look like this side of your house is. <A> I've had this same problem before and found it difficult to find replacement material that matches. <S> In Texas it rains heavy and the high humidity keeps these surfaces wet. <S> If the rot is low enough to the floor, run a chalk line across horizontally. <S> Cut of the rot with a circular saw,(adjust <S> the depth of the blade <S> so it doesn't cut the 2x4 wall behind) then use a piece of hardi cement trim board to fill in the bottom. <S> Caulk well between the old wall and the trim. <S> Ted
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You could install a horizontal trim piece along the bottom, under cut or flashed to the siding if the rotted section is not too high up the wall. You need to regrade plus move spout out. This is one of those jobs that require a look-see and adapt a solution as the amount of damage is determined. The bottom foot or two - or possibly the entire side - I would use a water resistant material not wood for siding.
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How do I get my recessed light fixture flush? I installed two new recessed LED light fixtures using 4" new construction IC housings . The problem is that both fixtures are not flush against the ceiling after installation, they are dipping down on one side 1/4" or so. Am I doing something wrong? Is my 1990's(Minnesota, USA) ceiling drywall too thick or something? Do I need a different fixture? I'll rig something up with tape/glue/etc. if necessary but I like the fixtures so don't want to return them. How can I get these fixtures flush with the ceiling? I've tried removing the fixtures and reinstalling with the same results. The housings are as close to the drywall as possible and secured under and to the sides of the ceiling joists. The housing itself does slide into the hole in the drywall about 1/4" I would guess but does not completely go into the room; I'm not sure if this is typical or not. The mechanism to secure the fixtures into the housing seems somewhat unique to me. It has clips that use friction to install, but will collapse if you turn the fixture clockwise to uninstall. It is best explained via an image: Notes Fixture: Commercial Electric 4 in. Recessed Soft White LED Can Disk Light Link 1 Link 2 Box: Halo T24 New Construction 4 in. LED Recessed Housing Link 1 <Q> The symptom of the gap you have in all my experience with recess lights have been the rough in housing has room for deflection. <S> As you push the trim in place, the rough in pushes up also under the tension of the lens going in and it stays pushed up until the lens bottoms out on the ceiling and is released. <S> The housing relaxes back down and creates the gap. <S> I have had some success minimizing the gap by twisting the trim slightly after the trim is meeting the ceiling. <S> Twist it in the direction that keeps the tension fingers out on the lens. <S> The wrong direction may allow the tension fingers to collapse for removal <S> and you are back to square one. <S> If that does not work to your satisfaction, I have glued the rough in down to the drywall <S> so it is stable enough to not rise when inserting the trim. <S> Blue tape <S> the finished drywall to keep it clear of the adhesive you choose to use, it can be practically anything. <S> Construction adhesive or painters <S> caulk would be my choice. <S> Push up on the rough in to expose the gap if possible of the upper drywall surface and rough in lip. <S> Inject a lot of the tube in the space, it will be messy, have paper on the floor. <S> Let the rough in back down, more may ooze out, keep it clean remove tape and let dry for a while. <S> A day or two will work, longer the better, then try to reinstall. <A> As Jack explains in his answer, the problem seems to be that the rough-in deflects upward as you are pushing the trim in and then returns to its at rest position after the trim is in place. <S> The trick is to keep the rough-in from moving upward. <S> Consider drilling two small holes about an inch above the bottom lip and on opposite sides of the rough-in. <S> Attach an eight inch strip of flexible strapping or something similar (flat, strong, and not prone to stretching) using sheet metal screws through each of those holes. <S> Allow the straps to hang down. <S> Installation will be a two person job. <S> Have someone pull those straps downward and then outward to hold the rough-in at its lowest point. <S> Then you push the trim kit in while your helper maintains the tension. <S> the rough-in may even slide upward a bit once the trim is in place and the straps are released, pulling the trim even snugger. <S> You can then trim off the pieces of strap sticking out with a utility knife. <S> You could make this a one person job if you are willing to put two anchors in the plasterboard of ceiling to hold the straps in place. <S> Once the trim is installed,the anchors can be removed and the holes filled and paint touched up. <A> Just chiming in here because I had this problem too and this was one of the only threads that I could find that discussed the issue. <S> My problem was definitely the housing can shifting upwards <S> and I was pushing the light into place. <S> All I did was take two strips of electrical tape, stuck one end to the interior of the housing and ran it vertically down and around the lip of the housing and drywall hole, sticking the other end on the ceiling. <S> This provided just enough resistance to secure the housing in place while I pushed up on the light. <S> Didn’t leave any marks, no mess. <S> The electrical tape was sturdy enough to pull out without it ripping but probably would have been fine if I had had to cut it with a utility knife.
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When it was almost completely flush I just wiggled the electrical tape and pulled it out.
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How can I repair a towel bar with one end ripped out of the wall? I'm in desperate need of assistance. I'm a tenant living in a rented apartment and one end of the towel bar just fell out of its socket! Can anyone tell me how, if possible, I can fix it myself without telling my landlord? Or in the worst case scenario that I have to call someone, can you tell me who I should call? I'm sorry but I'm new to all of this so I don't even know who to call to come fix it if I can't fix it myself. You are supposed to call an electrician for electrical stuff and a plumber for your plumbing but who should you call for something like this? Any help would be truly appreciated. If it is possible to fix it myself, could you help by giving me detailed instructions on how to do so including any materials I might need to buy. I've attached pictures since I don't know how to describe it like what screws it uses and such. Click any photo for full size <Q> What does your lease say about routine maintenance? <S> Chances are if you weren't doing chinups on it, you shouldn't be charged. <S> However, if you've had a previous experience with this landlord in which they've proved to be unreasonable, you could attempt to fix it yourself. <S> To do this, find a short length of steel rod with an outer diameter the same as the inside diameter of the sheared pin. <S> Test fit to make sure it all fits together. <S> Mix up some JB Weld, coat the steel rod, and then slide it into the sleeve on the wall, then press the other side on over it. <S> Try to avoid getting any of the epoxy compound on the end of the rod near the wall, as doing so may end up bonding it to the wall rather than just the bracket. <A> Sad to say, the pot-metal piece attached to the wall broke, and it's likely hard to find the right replacement part. <S> The proper person to call in a case like this is your landlord. <S> If it broke without unreasonable force, you should not be charged. <S> The landlord owns the property and has the right to choose the time and manner of repair <S> (she/he may not want a first timer to make the repair, for example). <S> Else the proper profession is ' handyman '. <S> An epoxy repair is possible here, but is tricky and may not hold. <S> This answer from @Doresoom gives an excellent method to make such a repair: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/40608/5960 <A> Honestly? <S> The easiest fix is to replace the whole towel rail, at your own cost. <S> The only tools you'll need is a large Phillips screwdriver, and perhaps some cleaning products for the wall. <S> The only critical measurement is the overall length. <S> So take the old one off the wall, and go visit a hardware store. <S> The US has Lowes or Home Depot or Walmart or similar, and most other countries will have similar large shops with many aisles. <S> Buying online from the likes of Amazon or ebay tends to be a bit riskier, because you can't visually check its what you need beforehand. <S> In the store, hold the old one up to the new rail through the packaging, and confirm the length is identical. <S> Ideally, the mountings would be the same design too, so you can reuse the same mounting holes and screws. <S> Visually, any similar design and chromed towel rail will be hard to notice. <S> You may choose to store the old towel rail or recycle/bin it.
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Your landlord may have a stock of the exact towel bar and thus have factory new parts. I agree that the best solution here is tell your landlord, provided you have a reasonable one.
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How do I even out a pair of bookcases on an uneven floor? So, I have a couple Ikea Billy bookcases, normal. I got them with doors, so with the forward weighting, I'm a bit extra paranoid about tipping. I put them together; all fine. Then I try to place them against the wall. I find the floor is uneven. Not just slanted, but a little bowed as well. I want them flush together, but it seems if I try to get that they don't fit together right, and are not aligned vertically. I can get them to sit nice together, but then they have a slightly forward lean (I can and will anchor to my wall with a bracket at the top). So, if I shim enough to be perfectly level, they won't stand together right and I get a little stair step effect across the top. I also get a bad gap with the kickpanel/toepanel underneath. If I have them standing together right, they're not level across the top. Is having them level all that necessary, especially since I will be anchoring to the wall? Is there something I can do to make the gaps from shimming less noticeable? Does joining them together with bolts make sense? I saw some parts from Home Depot that can bolt them together, would that help, or would the stresses from the bookcase shear the bolts? (unlikely, but as I said paranoid about tipping). Thanks much. EDIT: I accepted the answer closest to what I did. But this is what I did. I realized a few things. 1) the hinges on the Billy (standard Ikea hinges) don't have to be super level to work, they have a bit of a snap action to them. 2) I'm bolting to the wall, so with this and above, I don't need to be super paranoid about level, i can just join together at sorta level. I actually got some binding posts and some breakable/adjustable length bolts . I drilled through the shelf holes in the bookcase, trying to use the ones where the hinges were anyway. This got them together. Then I did some mild shimming, and bolted to the wall. NOTE I got 3, I probably should have gotten more. I sheared one bolt by tightening too hard. If you break before Ikea does, you're not heavy duty use. Seems to work well, and very solid. <Q> Attaching the bottom of both bookcases to a single flat board will get them aligned right. <S> Then you'll just have to shim once to get things properly vertical. <S> If the problem is extreme, consider bolts or a backboard to connect the sides of the units. <S> Both these options will improve overall stability of the pair. <S> Depending on the aesthetic situation, you could use anything from 3/4" BB grade plywood to birdseye maple for the boards. <A> I do not know the exact materials and construction methods used for your IKEA Billy bookcases but one scheme you could use to get them to sit nicely in their place on the floor is to "scribe" them to fit. <S> This technique would involve you first clamping the two units together using some C-clamps. <S> Make sure to put some protective material under the clamp faces to protect the book shelf veneer or laminate surfaces. <S> Clamp these into place so as to get the while unit vertical and even. <S> When you do this note the highest spot on the floor (i.e. the part of the floor that has the smallest gap underneath the stilted bookcase unit). <S> Ideally you would be letting the floor support the parts of the bookcase that has the narrowest gap so that the gap at that point approaches zero. <S> For the scribing operation you want to either use a scribing tool (see picture below) or find a small piece of material that has a thickness approximately equal to the largest gap between the floor and the bottom of the bookcase. <S> Let's say the largest gap is 1/2 inch. <S> You would use an item that is 1/2 inch thick (or set a scribing tool to 1/2 inch). <S> Now slide the small piece of material along all the lower edges of the bookcase as it sits on the floor. <S> In each position draw a line onto the sides and front kick pieces of the shelves. <S> (The scribing tool would have its straight arm drug along the floor surface while the pencil draws a long onto the shelf side). <S> The next part of this scheme is to saw along these scribe lines and cut away a small part of the sides and kick boards. <S> If done correctly the two shelves will now perfectly match to the floor at their intended position and be nice and vertical and straight. <S> Here is the picture of a scribing tool. <S> Get these at most hardware stores or home centers that sell tools. <S> A standard short pencil fits into the one side of the tool. <S> Set the point of the pencil to be approximately even with the point on the other arm of the compass/scriber tool. <A> There are two ways you could do this, both start with shimming the bookcases so that the doors operate the way they should. <S> The shelves do not need to be perfectly level and plumb, they only need to look that way so they do not draw attention from being out of level or plumb. <S> After the shims are set the way the shelves or better to say, doors work the best, measure the gap at the floor at the widest dimension there is. <S> If you have a compass scribe, you set the scribe to the widest part of the gap, mark it, and cut the bottom to conform to the floor. <S> You could use a pencil with a gauge block of the right thickness to do the same. <S> Maybe even pinch the pencil between your fingers to keep it a consistent height as you mark the bottom will work too. <S> The other way is to add another piece of small molding around the bottom to conceal the shims, or adding another piece of base to do the same. <S> This might be simpler being the bottom has a recess that will require a number of small pieces of molding to do the job, where a new base will cover the recess. <S> The base might need some trimming to follow the area better, since the floor varies. <A> In weird situations like this I have just screwed the bookcases to the walls. <S> Take the highest point in accordance to the floor and screw them in. <S> Obviously you might need some anchors, brackets, or other helpers but this is often the easiest way to deal with this situation. <S> From there just build up the legs with shims or other suitable materials, so that the bookcases have a little of the weight offset to the floor.
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Next you place the book cases in to their intended location and use some 1x2 pine board strips which you will clamp onto the sides as temporary "stilt" legs.
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How do you remove a wire from a push-in fitting when there is no release opening? How do you remove a wire from a push-in fitting when there is no release opening? Note: “ What could cause two of my receptacles to stop working? ” is my post. Note: My home is a 1980 manufactured home. It had junk plumbing (I have replaced the plumbing) and it has a junk electrical system. I wanted to practice on an old receptacle by replacing the receptacle with an up-to-date receptacle that has screw terminals. When I looked at the old receptacle I saw that it had push-in fittings, but no release openings to remove the wires (two white, two black) from the push-in fittings. So, how do I remove the wires? I see four ways: Cut the wires. I would cut the wires as close to the push-in fitting as possible. By using brute force pull the wires from the fitting. Is this even possible? Use a Dermal rotary tool to cut-up the receptacle being careful to not harm the wires. I see no reason to save the junk receptacle. Some other method. Any help you can give me with this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. <Q> Unless the wires are way too short, just cut them off - it's not worth wasting your time for 1/2" of wire. <S> You can use wirenuts and add a pigtail if you need more wire. <S> Life is way too short to fuss with a rotary tool cutting them open. <A> Aren't those slots on the side the release points? <S> I had similar receptacles (it's been some years, <S> so my memory is fuzzy) <S> and I recall being able to push a screwdriver into the slot to make the wires release. <A> If you twist the outlet back and forth while pulling on the wire, usually the wire will walk itself off. <S> However, you should not re-use the wires you remove in such a manner as they will be scratched and scarred. <S> With that in mind, just cut them flush with the outlet and strip the wire fresh.
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If the wires are way too short, and the circuit is dead, put on safety glasses and use a hammer or locking pliers or a bolt cutter to smash the crap receptacle and release your wires quickly.
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How to identify the type of plastic I'm wondering if there's a practical method of recognizing what kind of plastic a something is made of. This is a recurring issue I face when trying to fix/glue/work-with plastic stuff around the house. More specifically, I was trying to fix the connection of a garden hose reel. I thought that the black, carbon-like, hard plastic was ABS and used some ABS-compatible glue, but the bonding came off almost immediately after it was put under pressure. So, before I try again, I'd like a way to identify the material and use the right kind of products for it. <Q> Most products you purchase will have the information on the label. <S> If no information is provided you can look for a marking similar to the following that will help you identify the type of plastic it was made with. <S> ABS does not have a symbol, but is often marked >ABS<. <S> In your case, I'd look around the base of the hose reel you should be able to find it. <S> If not consult the manufacturers website. <A> After 30+ years in the plastics industry, my tried and true method is to take a scraping of the plastic piece and burn it, extinguish the flame and smell the smoke. <S> Polyolefins will catch fire, smell like candles (a paraffin based plastic); PVC won't usually ignite, smells like chlorine and will burn your nose - BE CAREFUL; ABS has a sweet smell and burns with a very black smoke; styrene isn't as sweet and burns black also; nylon takes more flame to ignite and has a smell like burning hair and also burns your nose; epoxies smell like a burned out electric motor. <A> There are numerous guides for attempting to identify the type of a plastic . <S> But when it comes to adhesives it appears that you can cover all your bases with just three: Cyanoacrylate ("superglue"). <S> Primer (a.k.a. "activator"). <S> Before using a glue like #1 on polycarbonate, polystyrene, polyethylene, polypropylene, PVC, or PTFE: you basically need to dissolve the surfaces to be bonded. <S> PVC primer is widely available and cheap in the plumbing section. <S> All other commercial primers appear to be similar combinations of solvents. <S> In a pinch, acetone might do the trick. <S> Acrylic cement. <S> Apparently ABS is just too different from the other plastics, and so it needs its own solvent and binders. <S> However, some of these are so aggressive that they seem to work on every plastic too: <S> For example, when in doubt, or when all else fails, I tend to use SCIGRIP 16, which is nominally an acrylic cement. <S> Note that this is for cheap household repairs.
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If you really want to fix plastic, proper heat welding or carefully-matched chemical or epoxy welding is the way to go.
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Will an old oak tree close to my house cause problems? I'm considering buying a 45 year old house. The house is in good condition, and has a big old oak tree 15 or 20 feet from the back of the house. It's a beautiful tree, clearly as old as the house, but I'm concerned the proximity of the tree could threaten the house foundation or lead to roach infestations. Will this tree cause trouble? The house is in the southeastern United States. Of course I'd get a home inspection before buying, but I'm too curious to wait. <Q> Maybe I can post some pictures later but I have 3 very large oaks next to my house - one is absolutely huge and 10 feet away. <S> There are tons of limbs directly over my roof. <S> Do I care? <S> Not really. <S> I asked my insurance company <S> and they don't care nor do they offer discounts for trimming them back. <S> Pros: <S> Tons of shade when you are out Definitely lower energy costs in the summer <S> Protects roof and cars from hail and harsh weather <S> I have a 15 year old roof that looks half its age <S> burglars scared of spooky trees leave my house alone <S> have sticks to burn in backyard fire pit <S> once the leaves come in the sun isn't blinding in the morning <S> Cons: <S> branches, squirrels, and acorns hit the roof in late summer and fall pollen <S> acorn residue in gutters <S> (I have a guard <S> so leaves don't get in) <S> I might have to pay someone in the future to cut something... almost 10 years here and haven't <S> but I could at some point leaves... <S> I mulch them up as it sheds. <S> Not a ton of extra work but a little. <S> Things not mentioned: <S> roaches... huh? <S> Never had a roach in my house. <S> foundation issues... <S> the house would have already had issues. <S> I would consider an older tree a minor threat to a patio area. <S> other bugs... <S> Never had any sort of bug/termite issue at my house. <S> I have 3 huge trees near my house and about 25 more in yard. <S> I would consider it only a plus given two things. <S> First that the tree is in good condition. <S> You don't need a pro for this unless you think it is iffy. <S> Second <S> if there is a branch that is a little too big for the tree creeping over the house. <A> Does the tree spread over the house? <S> It's impossible to say that the tree will or won't cause problems - it might, or it might not. <S> For instance, if it does spread over the house, you can trim it so it does not. <S> It can also cause benefits, such as reducing your airconditioning load, depending where it is. <S> Trees and termites and carpenter ants are typically connected (sensibly enough) <S> - I'm not aware of any common connection of trees to roaches. <S> I connect roaches to uncleaned kitchens, mostly. <S> There are control approaches that do not involve removing the tree if the associated critters show up. <A> This isn't an answer to the OP's question <S> but I can't add a comment to either of the answers above (so, please don't down vote me!) <S> Regarding cockroaches: "The large, outdoor cockroaches breed prolifically in pine straw mulch and poorly in gravel or on bare soil." <S> Although the tree above is not a pine, I would still take care not to leave excessive accumulation of leaves near the perimeter of the home. <S> "Fill tree holes with cement to remove this prime harborage area." <S> source: http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ig082 "Cockroaches and Their Management"
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Many problems can be mitigated if you like having a tree in your yard - no point in mitigating them if you don't.
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Running computers in basement storage room safely I have kinda an odd one. I'm mostly concerned about fire safety here and am not concerned about power, I already know how to handle that properly. I have a somewhat large basement with an unfinished storage room that is probably 150 square feet total. The room also contains the gas water heater and furnace. I have a 19" server rack that I'd like to put in there and run 2 or 3 servers in it at a time. These are servers that draw 300W of power and so generate about 3000 BTUs of heat per hour. There are not any combustibles next to the water heater, furnace or servers. My questions are: Is it safe to run servers/computers next to a gas water heater if Igive them about 3-4 feet of clearance? Will I have to worry about the heat generated by the servers not being handled by the airflow? <Q> 3x 300 watt servers together would produce ~3070 BTU/hr. <S> ~1023 <S> BTU/hr each. <S> There's no particular hazard to running the servers near a water heater or furnace, other than the heat associated with those items raising the baseline before you add the heat thrown off by the servers. <S> Most system administrators would choose not to <S> but that's from a "hazard to the computer" point of view, <S> not fire hazard <S> - Nothing quite like having a water heater fail and spray your servers with hot water to ruin whatever service you were running on them. <S> You have provided no data on airflow or ventilation - it's certainly possible that the temperature may become excessive without some active ventilation and/or cooling. <S> If the ceiling height is 8 feet, there's about 89 lbs of air in the room. <S> The specific heat of air is 0.24 BTU/lb/degreeF (varies somewhat with temperature and pressure), so in the absence of airflow into or out of the room and with infinitely insulating walls/floor/ceiling, you'd be looking at ~140F temperature rise per hour. <S> Might be a bit toasty for the servers, though it would save a bit on hot water bills. <S> During the heating season you may well be able to arrange the cold air return so that the servers get cooler air and contribute to heating the house - in warmer weather <S> you'll want to dump heat somewhere else, though you could get some benefit by using a heat pump water heater (or just an add-on unit) to provide some (erratic, as you use hot water) cooling and make use of the heat from the servers. <A> I think that no matter where you put those servers, whether in a storage room or near to your actual computers, you should really do something about the heat generated. <S> There are proper cooling systems that you should have in place to make sure that your electronic bits are kept cool and don't overheat. <A> I have a lab at work right next to water heaters and air conditioning unit. <S> I got the space for free and the "good" space <S> is production stuff. <S> I have not even thought about the units until your question, and will soon forget about them. <S> They mean nothing. <S> Pretty much there are three things to worry about. <S> Temperature, humidity, and drastic changes in temperature. <S> Room should optimally stay below 75 degrees Fahrenheit. <S> maybe 20-30. <S> Air flow really doesn't matter. <S> However my only issue with your basement is the humidity levels in that room. <S> Higher humidity will eventually cause some components on your motherboard to fail/rust/deteriorate. <S> This won't be any consequence to you until your servers are in there for a while. <S> It might give them a shelf life of 3-4 years instead of 6-7. <S> It isn't a huge deal but these kinds of problems are just a PITA to troubleshoot. <S> The temperature swings are a bigger deal because they can leave condensation everywhere, including in HDDs. <S> This is a much bigger deal <S> Just don't leave heat/air off when leaving on vacation for a few weeks.
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Real walls, floor, ceiling will bleed off some heat, but you still might have a problem without some active ventilation. You could probably run 10 servers in an open rack and be fine in a basement room that size... and I don't think it is an issue unless you treat your house as an unconditioned space...
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How do I run ethernet and speaker cabling in 2 story home? My home is 1988 built and I put my modem and router upstairs. I want to have a music system around house and also want to run Ethernet cable to my tv downstairs. How can I do that? I do not want to open walls for this if possible :-( I am running tv on wireless but it sucks. Any help is appreciated. Edit0: I do not have a crawlspace, its a concrete base. And not sure if attic would also be of any help based on what I need. The comcast cable that I have enters my home from a hole upstairs. Right in the room where I have my cable modem. Can I run an ethernet cable in reverse direction and then wrap it around my home and reach my tv? I have a previous dish networks cable hole on a wall near my tv. Question is, is it a good idea to run Ethernet cable aournd the house? Would whether do anything nasty to it? <Q> Having done a LOT of this over the years, your options are basically - find something else to follow, go plenum-rated and use ductwork <S> if you have it as @Comintern suggests in a comment, run wires on the surface or go though a lot of agony trying not to open up walls. <S> In many cases, opening up walls would be a lot less agony. <S> There are often inconvenient things like firestops in the middle of walls, and you can get into all sorts of excitement <S> you'd just as soon not when trying to drill blind or around corners or any sort of fancy work like that. <S> Yes, long flexible drills are made - without a long flexible camera to be sure what the heck one is drilling into, you can get into a world of misery trying to use one... <S> My prime suggestion - open the walls, run conduit, never have to do this again <S> (if you run the conduit right so that you can pull these wires out when you need to install whatever everything is using in 10 years.) <S> In large part you may be able to minimize opening first floor walls if you can distribute across the basement and have short runs up to the first floor. <S> The run from basement to attic will probably require it - you can distribute much of the second floor through the attic to minimize opening walls up there. <S> If you can't use plenum rated cables in air ducts (and DON'T use non-plenum rated cables in air ducts, since you and your family are the ones that will be subject to smoke inhalation for the savings of a few pennies) look around the plumbing for possible routes you might get a network wire in. <S> However, most non-owner-built homes have miserable access to the plumbing, so that may not save you much if any wall opening. <S> Builders who are not going to live there seem to love just sealing it all up in drywall to make more work when service is required... <S> Look around for things like stacked closets to try and locate space where you can open the walls with minimum area to repair/repaint to run your conduit or wires. <A> If you don't have much experience running wire, an easy option in some cases is to run the wire along the exterior of the house. <S> You punch out the wire at the source, run along the siding, under the gutters, etc. <S> and then drill through the wall to bring it into the house. <S> This is easiest on exterior walls, but you can also bring the wire into the attic and then down into a wall. <S> If you choose this route, make sure to leave a drip loop and seal all of the holes with caulking or expanding foam. <S> Use a low voltage rework box on the inside, and seal and holes you made in the vapor barrier with tuck tape. <S> Running wire inside is usually doable with minimal damage but requires a good plan and some experience with a flexible drill bit, fish tape, etc. <S> Remember that at every location you choose to terminate a wire, you will need a cutout in the wall for the rework box. <S> This is usually close to the ground, so you can easily drill down through the bottom plate to get between floors. <S> Similar but more involved would be removing existing electrical boxes in order to use the hole (make sure to shutoff the power!). <S> This combined with a few techniques for hiding wires such as behind baseboards or crown molding will usually allow you to plan a wiring route with minimal wall damage. <S> If you've never run or seen cables run before, you could get an electrician, alarm installer or other installer to do a few runs for you while you learn about how they do it. <S> Do yourself a favor too and pull multiple cables to each location. <S> 2-3 Ethernet and 1 RG6 is a typical run that I have to multiple locations in my house. <S> Conduit is nice but gets expensive to run and is not as easily installed as flexible cables alone. <A> I have run the odd cable in my house (wood frame, wallboard) by drilling down from the attic into the hollow wall. <S> There's a 2x4 at the top of the wall, with vertical 2x4 studs. <S> I've mounted a junction box on the stud by cutting into the wall, then made a small pilot hole into the attic through the ceiling to register the main hole through the 2x4. <S> Then use fish tape, or just find the cable coming down the side of the stud. <A> Stop! <S> Before you start drilling holes everywhere - take a look at Homeplug adapters . <S> Plug one in near your Cable Modem. <S> Run ethernet from the modem to the plug. <S> Plug another one in downstairs near your TV <S> Run ethernet from the plug to your TV <S> Hey presto! <S> Your Internet connection now runs over your power lines. <S> Depending on the age and the quality of your wiring, you may or may not get acceptable speeds. <S> That said, adapters are very cheap and (if they work) you can plug one in every room which needs an Internet connection.
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You can remove other wall plates for existing phone lines/cable and use cutout as an access point for running the wire.
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How to remove silicone caulk from a shower wall? I took down a shampoo dispenser and now I have several big blobs of moldy silicone caulk on the shower wall. I bought a plastic razor scraper and a bottle of Goo Gone Caulk Remover, which gets high marks for removing silicone on Amazon, but I haven't even made a dent. I think part of the problem is that the wall is vertical (duh :) and the remover is liquid, so it doesn't stay on the caulk long enough to do the job. Is there a gel formula out there that works well, or some other technique that would work better? <Q> If you saturate toilet paper with the remover and slap it on your vertical surface it will stick there and hold it against the caulking. <S> Practice a couple times with water to get a feel for the appropriate amount of moisture. <S> Scrape off as much as possible before you start in with the remover though. <S> Just to clarify, you should be using a plastic blade in the scraper <S> so you don't damage or leave marks on the wall. <S> EDIT: <S> BTW, you can also use acetone (i.e. nail polish remover) to remove silicone caulking. <S> Acetone attacks some plastics, so I'd only go this route on tile. <S> EDIT 2: <S> If neither of those options work, you can also go to an auto supply store and pick up an adhesive eraser wheel . <S> You use these with an electric drill and they are designed to take adhesives off of auto bodies without damaging the paint. <S> Again, this might not be the best thing to use on a plastic surround. <A> I had the same situation. <S> Old shower dispenser had been attached with silicone. <S> After pulling it off, the silicone was completely intact on the shower wall. <S> Shower is an acrylic shower stall fitted into the wall around the tub. <S> I found a bread knife in the knife drawer, about 10" long, non-serrated (not the sharpest knife in the drawer). <S> Holding both ends of that knife, sharp side down, thumbs providing a little bend in the middle, I found that I could slice that silicone almost down to the wall. <S> A few precise, surgical passes, scraping the wall a little bit with no damage, and it was gone in no time. <A> They called this the duct tape of caulking for a reason. <S> I have been trying everything I have googled stating that it would work to no avail to remove this caulking from the floor of a trailer so that I can paint in a new floor. <S> And don't we all hate it when our parents are always right? <S> I grew up with my father telling me carburetor cleaner cleans everything including sap from your hands. <S> Lo and behold it works with minimal scrubbing for both the caulking and the liquid nails! <A> It does take time, but there is a lot less elbow grease.
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The easiest way that I found to remove silicone caulking from tile was high acetone nail polish remover with a magic eraser.
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Should I refinish hardwood floor with scratches? I am in a process to to get my hardwood refinished. The floor have few deep scratches and is of oak type hardwood. My question is: 1) Stain or not to Stain ? Is it a good idea to stain the hardwood floor if it have significant scratches. I think many of scratch will go away with sanding process, but i am still sceptic if staining can make the scratches more noticeable? 2) If after deep sanding i have surface imperfection in floor is "sanding + clear coat" will be better than "Sanding + Staining + clear coat?" <Q> If the scratches are all in the finish rather than gouging the wood, then (depending on what finish is already there) a "screen and re-coat" pass might be another option. <S> That approach just roughs and somewhat levels <S> the surface of the existing finish, then lays down a fresh coat on top of it. <S> Faster and cheaper, can yield good results if the floor's basically in good condition, doesn't cut into the "wear layer" of laminate flooring as much as a full refinish would... but won't take out any deeper damage and may not be applicable for all finishes, especially if they've had polishes/waxes applied on top of them. <S> (I just know it's an option, <S> can't advise on details. <S> Personally, I sorta like the fact that some of my floors have clearly been in use as long as the house has stood here; as long as there's enough finish to protect the wood <S> and it's clear enough to let me see the wood, I'm happy.) <S> Remember that wood looks different dry than it does either wet or under a varnish <S> (try wiping it with denatured alcohol to get a better sense of what it will look like when varnished). <S> Also remember that the varnish may add some color of its own, depending on what you use. <A> Although my floor was in much worse shape, vacillation between replacing or refinishing. <S> I ended up having them refinished by a company I found online. <S> They were able to sand the wear and the scratches so that when the poly dried it was like a brand new floor. <S> I'm also a big fan of seeing the natural wood grain & tone, so I would also recommend either a very light stain or just straight poly. <A> Sanding will definitely help. <S> After you sand you will be able to tell which direction of staining you should go. <S> If you still see a lot of marks and scratches that are a "darker" color, then I would pick a darker color of stain to hide the marks. <S> It could be that after you sand you will see about the same color difference. <S> If you stain it the exact same light color or just poly then you will get a cleaner version of what you have now. <A> In a stained floor, any abuse that cuts through the finish and scratches the wood shows the contrast between the stain colour and the wood colour. <S> A dark stain on light wood is particularly bad this way. <S> One thing you can try as an experiment: Take a spot that is scratched but is out of the way. <S> (May be hard to find. <S> The out of hte way <S> spots don't get much wear. <S> Maybe look where the lighting is bad.) <S> Do the floor prep for revarnishing -- wax stripper, light sanding, 3 coats of PU varnish. <S> If the scratches are still visible, then refinish the floor. <S> If they are 'good enoough, then treat the rest of the floor that way. <S> In the Bad Olde Days, twice a year we would strip and wax floors. <S> Mom would put clean socks on us kids and we were encouraged to run and slide on the floor to buff it. <S> To strip the wax was usually just a mix of sudsing ammonia and water. <S> You wanted the windows open! <S> Could get intense. <S> We tried to make a point of being elsewhere, but usually at least one of us was drafted to move furniture and rollup area rugs. <S> The advantage of wax was that it absorbed the abuse, but was easily renewed. <S> It also filled in hairline scratches in the varnish. <S> In the 60's self stripping waxes came out. <S> They weren't nearly as hard, but you you avoided a step in the process which meant that the furniture had to be moved one less time.
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Unless you want to darken the wood, I wouldn't consider staining unless necessary to match color in a damaged area... especially since you have to strip ALL the varnish off first or the stain will go down unevenly. So I would definitely recommend sanding, if nothing more than to even out scratches a bit.
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How can I check for drywall behind wood panelling? What's the best way for me to know whether there is drywall behind wood panelling walls? The wood panelling looks inexpensive, and it's in a big room (a converted garage). <Q> If there are electrical outlets, remove one and look. <S> otherwise you need to remove a section of panelling or drill a hole and observe what comes out. <S> Odds are pretty good <S> it's just panelling, speaking to typical practices in garage remodels. <A> Drill a screw in the wall. <S> Pull it out. <S> See if it has white flakes on it. <A> Like drywall, many types of wood paneling come in 4' x 8' panels. <S> That means you should have seams with finishing nails along every third stud. <S> If you're careful enough, you can just tap the nails back in when you're done. <S> But use caution: those finishing nails usually have shanks.
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You could try carefully popping out a few nails in the middle of a panel to see what's behind it.
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What is the best way to fill finishing nail holes on door and floor trim? There have been a couple of similar questions but none for my exact usage or that provides a good answer. I consider myself average to weak on finishing wood work so would like to hear some good input. Let's assume that the floor or door trim is either poplar or pine (wood I usually use). And let's also assume that it will be painted white. I usually use a wood putty to fill the finishing nail/staple hole. However I run across two minor issues. the wood putty dries smaller leaving an indention. Sometimes this is not noticeable for months even when being careful and wiping the surround area, there seems to be some noticeable putty remnants near the filled holes So just looking for any tips/secrets in getting a perfect finish on white wood. Update: Over the next couple of days I will go wood putty (using ecnerwal's advice) vs. spackle to see what turns out the best. Any other fillers to try? <Q> Less wiping. <S> More time before sanding. <S> Unless you go to something extreme like epoxy putty, it all shrinks. <S> If you leave the filler proud of (sticking above) <S> the hole, let it cure fully, and then sand it down, it should work. <S> In extreme cases you may need to refill and let that cure, but that's adding more time to the program which is probably not good for you. <S> If you scrape it flat to the hole, it will shrink below the hole. <S> Without adding any overall time to your program, I'd save sanding for the next day just before painting, at least. <S> Excess putty near the hole will come off with a sanding block (and if you don't use a block, that can also promote divots) - since you specified that you are painting over, filler beyond the hole should make no appearance difference if it's allowed to cure and sanded flat. <S> If the building is not fully heated when applying the filler, or is heated but is dumping a huge amount of water from fresh drywall work (or unvented construction heaters), that may affect the curing time of the filler product negatively. <S> I have personally had better luck with "modern" "lightweight" filler compounds than with "wood putty containing actual wood fibers" (which, inherently, shrink quite a bit, because they are wet wood fibers...) <S> - the fact that the nailholes are glaring white .vs. <S> the wood surface does not matter if you are painting over them. <S> Given that you are (I gather) in a production/professional capacity, probably best to run some experiments with different fillers and schedules and see what works best for you. <A> You want spackle. <S> It sticks, it doesn't shrink, and it can be sanded flush. <S> For more detail, see this awesome article that turned me on to the technique: http://www.thejoyofmoldings.com/when-to-use-spackling-and-when-to-use-caulk-moldings/ <S> Spackle is probably one of my favorite compounds; it just has so many uses! <A> Spackle is best. <S> It's cheap, easy, water clean up and <S> you can completely remove it if need be any time later before you paint. <S> And it can't hurt anything, because there's nothing you can't clean it off of or out of at any time later too. <S> First screw, nail <S> and/or glue anything that has movement. <S> fill in all cracks and imperfections, trim to wall and trim to trim, with a putty knife, fingers or anything that'll do it. <S> The wider the gap <S> the more you should push in, Remove excess and let dry. <S> Use the flat and angled edges of sponge sanders, damp rags, sandpaper, putty knife to scrape, finger nails or whatever works until you get a smooth chiseled look. <S> Wide gaps will have shrinkage so fill them again. <S> Once satisfied, paint all trim with 2 light coats overlapping onto the wall a couple of inches to fully seal the trim and spackle. <S> Be careful not to form a paint ridge on the wall. <S> Feather it out on the wall farther if you have to. <S> You'll be surprised at how easy it is to cut the wall paint into the trim when you do it this way. <S> Cut in twice with the wall paint then put painter's tape sticking out on top of the floor trim to catch the specks while rolling. <A> The only thing I use is lightweight Spackle. <S> First fill is fast with your finger. <S> In 20 mins clean off the excess with a damp sponge. <S> 15 minutes later put on a second coat to fill any indents. <S> Again, after 20 mins sponge it off very gently. <S> After an hour sand it if needed and it will be perfect. <S> Minor touch up if needed until you get the nack. <S> I have painted miles of trim and you cannot find a nail. <A> I have always had good luck with pencil fillers such as the one below. <S> It takes a little practice to get it to fill the hole evenly, but works great once you get the hang of it. <S> It will also never shrink, since nothing is drying. <S> These come in all sorts of colors: mostly various wood-shades, but also plain colors such as white. <A> Most people will shoot me down <S> but ive always had shrinkage problems with puttys as well. <S> Funnily enough ever since i started using a finishing plaster compound i have never had any issues with shrinkage or cracking etc. <S> I first used it about 6 years ago in my house and have since redone every skirting/arcitrave in my house. <S> I have not had a single sunken or cracked nail hole yet. <S> I fill high and sand til its very finely proud still and it is a flawless finish <A> I hardly ever anser my own question and this is the first one I have accepted as the answer to something broad. <S> But there is a clear winner. <S> Durham's Water Putty. <S> I have no affiliation with the company and really used their products only a few times until this year. <S> I then started using it for trim nails. <S> I wanted to wait a while to post it as an answer because seasonal highs/lows cause cracking. <S> Let me sum it up: <S> Drywall mud = <S> Cracks on surrounding area <S> Caulk = reduces Spackle = cracks, not as bad as drywall mud <S> but it also has a lip unless perfectly sanded wood putty = <S> dries and cracks internally <S> Durham's = no issues... like using bondo on a car Only issue with Durham's is sanding is more of a chore. <S> But this is more about practice. <S> Applying it right took me a few times. <S> And then when sanding getting the area wet beforehand if there was a lot of sanding. <S> Definite winner here. <S> Good for this small company - <S> no wonder they are still in business.
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This spring I filled in large holes in trim using Durham's (the lock holes).
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Why are my fluorescent lights not working sometimes? I have a fluorescent light fixture in my kitchen, which uses u-shaped tubes. A few weeks ago they just stopped working. I could turn the switch on and there'd just be no light. Not flickering which I've read indicates a bad bulb. No buzzing sound, which I read means the ballast is bad either. To make things weirder, a couple days ago I absent mindedly flicked the switch and the lights came right on! Today they worked fine when I got home from work, but after cooking I turned the lights off... when I tried to turn them on again an hour or so later they wouldn't come back on. So what could be causing this? EDIT: I should note that I installed new bulbs and they didn't work until the other day... and now they've stopped again. <Q> Confirm your wall switch is good. <S> Turn off the switch and take the tubes back out andput them back in making sure they're fully snapped in. <S> It's worth atry. <S> Don't go buy more, but if you have other new tubes try them. <S> Otherwise, the best test for a ballast is just what you did, try newtubes. <S> If no luck, replace the ballast. <S> While replacing the ballast, make sure all of the wires in thesockets are well connected. <S> Give them each a little tug. <S> If you can't get awire to stay in a socket replace the socket, maybe replace all 4. <S> Fluorescent lights need to be grounded to work properly. <S> Make sure aground wire is attached to the fixture. <S> I've seen fluorescent lights, especially in old homes, where the people say they're always replacing tubes, and it's because the fixture isn't grounded. <S> If you're going to replace the ballast or the entire fixtureconsider going with an electronic ballast maybe even T8 size tubes. <S> Amazon sells the smaller clips you'd need for a retrofit to T8 U-Bent tubes - ASINB00A3WGR0W. <A> Bulbs nearing end-of-life. <S> Ballast nearing end-of-life. <S> The CFL in my office has been doing something similar for months - I just turn it on once a day and try to remember not to turn it off unless it will be off for hours. <S> It's a normal failure mode for fluorescents. <S> Buzzing and flickering not required. <A> Depending on the type of light you have your may have starters which precharge your light. <S> If these are malfunctioning the light will not turn on or may turn on at random times. <S> The starters will be a small component which you push in and turn counterclockwise to move. <S> It usually appears under the shield of your light. <S> they are less than a dollar usually at a local hardware store to replace. <S> Typically, if a ballast is going out you will have signs of flickering (at a slow rate) buzzing etc... <S> Before spending big money on a ballast see if you have a starter on your light.
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If the lights work for a period of time and go out on their own,that usually indicates an over-heating ballast - replace theballast. Bad switches can be intermittent.
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What should I use to repair plaster in a bathroom? Our house was built in 1941, so all original walls are plaster (I'm assuming lath and plaster?). This is true for the bathroom in question. The walls in this bathroom are plaster, and are painted with latex paint. Where the shower curtain rod is in contact with the wall, the plaster has begun to break away, most likely due to continued exposure to moisture. I noticed this when I went to swap out the rod for a new one, and began to peel some of the bubbling paint away. See the picture for detailed shots. My question is what I should use to repair this damage. I've read that normal spackling can be used to repair minor plaster damage, but is that best to use in a moist bathroom setting? Or do I need to go the route of dry mix plaster that I smooth over? And as a side question, if there are any suggestions for what I could do to not have the shower rod in direct contact with the wall, that would also be appreciated. Thanks. <Q> There are a few options that can be used to repair this damage. <S> You can use standard joint compound (non-lightweight), and apply it in thin coats to avoid cracking due to shrinking, joint compound mixed with plaster, or professional grade oil based drywall spackle. <S> The first step would be to dry the wall and inspect it for mold. <S> If there is any surface mold present, you can kill it with a bathroom cleaner that has bleach in it. <S> After the surface has been cleaned and dried out thoroughly, you would want to apply a stain blocking primer like Kilz. <S> This will give you a good surface to bond the repair to. <S> You can then apply the drywall filler of your choosing. <S> You may need to apply it in several layers to get a good result. <S> Once you are satisfied with the repair, then you can begin to prepare the wall for paint. <S> 2 - 3 coats should be enough for good coverage. <S> I also recommend that you extend the primer past the damaged area to ensure that the same problem won't reoccur. <S> If you can, prime the whole area around the shower. <S> After it has been primed, then you can apply the top coat. <S> A good idea would be to repaint the entire bathroom with paint that is made for kitchen and bathrooms. <S> This kind of paint will resist water, and can easily be cleaned. <S> Many brands are also resistant to mold. <A> after replastering the damaged wall, you can use water-proof paint to protect the plaster. <S> The items and materials used in bathroom and kitchen should be anti-moisture. <A> bcworkz and Snowman are right, but I would like to add some details. <S> This is without doubt moisture damaged, and everything that has moisture or water damage must be removed and changed. <S> Also, water and sewerage pipes in this bathroom are questionable, at best, so I strongly recommend that you check them. <S> But, I’m not sure that is the end of your problems: you should apply some hydro insulation both on the floor and on the walls, because even if you floor is OK now, materials applied are mineral based insulation meaning that gradually they disintegrate. <S> and since you should apply insulation on the walls, it is a good thing to make a "bathtub". <S> I'm afraid that ceramic tiles are hiding an even bigger issue, that’s <S> why I suggest all of this. <S> When it comes to greenboard, I disagree. <S> Because if you put that in, then ceramic tiles wouldn't be "in front" of the rest of the wall, but in the same plane, or even worse "behind" the tiles which is really bad. <S> I would suggest that after you remove plaster you apply layer of mortar, than some insulation, and then you paint it over. <S> Of course this is cheaper, fix the burning issue solution. <S> Complete solution is elaborated earlier. <S> When it comes to shower rod, you can paint just that part of the wall, or that one wall with acrylic based paint, like the one they use for façade. <A> Here's what I would suggest for repairs like this <S> Just spackle the wall. <S> Nothing special needed here Prime it. <S> Can use oil or latex primer <S> Paint it with a semi-gloss or hi-gloss paint. <S> The gloss part will resist the moisture better than a normal latex. <S> You can also opt for an exterior oil-based paint, which would afford the same or better moisture protection Install a permanent shower rod. <S> Tension rods will tear your wall up and leave you in the same situation down the road. <S> Caulk the edges on the wall if you want maximum water resistance.
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I suggest priming the wall with an interior/exterior grade primer that will be able to stand up to the moisture.
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How do I fix a leaking connector between my garden hose and faucet? I am trying to connect a garden hose with the faucet. After connecting and turning on the faucet, the water still squirted out. Please see the attached picture. I am not sure whether I need a wrench to tighten it, or it is just because the faucet or hose connector are too old. Or in other words, is using a wrench to tighten a hose connector a required procedure? <Q> It's possible to get the hose screwed on by hand tightly enough that it won't leak if your grip is strong enough; I think the strength required is within the normal range for an adult (mine is relatively strong though, so your mileage may vary). <S> But before you get a wrench, there's a couple of things you should check: <S> make sure the threads on the faucet and on the hose are clean; if they've been disconnected over the winter, they could have picked up some dirt or grit which is preventing you from getting a good seal. <S> the hose is supposed to have a rubber washer to make the seal against the end of the faucet. <S> If it's missing, perished, or not seated correctly, then you won't get a good seal. <S> You can get packs of washers (more than you'll ever use, probably) <S> cheaply at the big box stores. <S> Once you've got those taken care of, try it with the hose screwed on hand-tight. <S> If you're still getting leaks, you can try using a wrench, but remember that tightening is good, over-tightening is bad because you start to deform the rubber washer, which reduces its effectiveness. <S> Get the hose hand-tight, then use the wrench to go another quarter-turn or so. <S> If it's still leaking, it may be time to get a new hose. <A> If the leak is around the threads themselves (you can tell vs gasket based on where water comes out), teflon tape (sometimes called plumber's tape) exists for this. <S> It's readily available at hardware and home improvement stores, and very inexpensive. <S> Just wrap it around the faucet threads a few time and screw the hose on and it will make a good seal. <S> It's not permanent <S> , you can remove / replace it after removing the hose. <S> (Image source: http://plumbing-n-electric.wonderhowto.com/how-to/use-ptfe-tape-teflon-tape-threads-294854/ ) <S> Generally I use teflon tape on all summer / long-term garden hose connections by default, leak or not. <A> Garden hose gasket , do you have one?They like to fall out and get lost, and without one it can become nearly impossible to tighten the connection up hard enough to prevent leakage. <A> I just fixed this same issue today. <S> After trying my best to screw it on over and over it was the tape that did the trick <S> but I still replaced the washer since I had the stuff out already. <S> I also fixed a leaky hookup from my house to sprayer attachment with one of the extra washers. <S> I said something to a friend who owns a plumbing company and he chuckled and said "well I could have told you that". <S> So I'm believing tape method is something that's been around a while <S> plus it makes sense, you can always remove it, and it works.
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Combined with garden hose gasket, you don't even need to tighten the connection that hard.
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Can armored bx cable come into contact with other metal objects? I am running armored 12/2 bx to wire 4 high hats, the armored cable is grounded. There is a heating duct which I must go over, but the AC will come in contact with it... Is this ok or do I need to avoid having it make contact? <Q> Armored cable is meant to resist damage to the conductors from contact with other materials (like a duct). <A> There is no such thing as BX cable. <S> Are you working with Type AC cable (armored cable), or Type MC cable (metal-clad cable)? <S> Metal-Clad Cable (Type MC) <S> Type MC cable has a grounding conductor, and the sheath cannot be used as a grounding conductor. <S> Armored Cable (Type AC) <S> Type AC cable has an internal bonding strap, which is used as a grounding conductor. <S> If you're working with AC cable, there are indeed fault conditions where a duct in contact with the armor could become energized. <S> I'd try to avoid contact between the sheath and metal objects. <S> In either case, make sure the grounding strap is properly bonded. <S> NOTE: <S> The fault conditions required to energize the ducting would be, improper bonding, and a ground fault (current flowing on the sheathing). <A> Electrolytic corrosion could compromise one or the other of the metals. <S> That's why, for example, you need to use copper clamps and copper nails to fasten copper water pipe... <A> When properly installed the cladding of both AC and MC cables are always grounded (in most cases using identical connectors) and both cable types have always been installed in contact with most of the usual conductive building materials: steel studs, structural steel, ducts, plumbing and so on. <S> And because Armored Cable has the bonding strip, its sheathing would have the lower resistance of the two cable types making it the safer one if its sheathing had to conduct a fault current. <S> Because many more people know exactly what you mean when you say Romex , I prefer the word. <S> When it comes to the terms <S> BX , AC or Armored Cable , it depends on who I'm talking to <S> and it also depends on whether it's the old steel stuff or the contemporary aluminum. <S> For the old stuff, because more people would know what I mean, I'd be more likely to say BX and reserve the terms <S> AC or Armored Cable for only when referring to the newer stuff and talking to someone who knows what it is. <S> Why Armored Cable? <S> Is this your home? <S> Is it elsewhere wired in Romex?Why #12 awg? <S> Is it a 20 amp <S> circuit?What kind of Armored Cable do you have? <S> Is the sheathing aluminum? <S> Is there a full size bonding strip? <S> Is there a green insulated copper ground conductor?
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The armor itself is grounded when properly installed, and touching other metal should pose no risk (assuming the armor is not so bent or compressed as to expose the conductors). If you're working with MC cable, it's not likely any fault condition could lead to the ducting becoming energized. Apart from electrical considerations, one should avoid having dissimilar metals in long-term contact, especially in what could be damp or humid conditions.
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How do I patch a large hole in plaster and lath? I am having some plumbing repaired in my 1913 house that will result in a large access hole (2' x 16") on the first floor. The wall is currently plaster and lath and I'm trying to get a handle on the best way to repair the damage after the plaster and lath are removed. From what I've read so far, plaster of Paris hardens too fast, making it difficult to work with so I'm leaning towards DAP® Plaster Wall Patch (Dry Mix). I know I need to provide some backing material either metal or wooden lath but I'm not sure what else is needed. Do I need to use any fiberglass mesh to put over the lathe or can I just start with the plaster. Does anyone have any experience with the Plaster Wall Patch? Is there something better that would work? When applying plaster it sounds like I need at least two layers, once base and another finishing. Should I build up a first layer, let it dry and then another layer level with the existing surface or is there a technique that would be better. Do you think I can paint over the Plaster Wall Patch or is something else needed to prepare the surface for painting? I can't wait to get started, I just need a little help in putting a plan together. <Q> What I have done on my 1909 house (I am in the U.S.) in the same exact situation is clear a wider area of the lath and plaster and replace it with drywall. <S> To do that, you will need to add some padding over the studs because the lath&plaster is thicker than 1/2" -- what I did was pad it with 3/8" plywood, then drywall over plywood to achieve approximately an even joint between the new drywall and the old plaster. <S> Then you tape and sand the joints like you would with regular drywall, prime and paint it later. <A> I am a drywall and plaster contractor in <S> Va. The guy above told you correctly. <S> The problem with wood lath is: once you start to cut it or re-screw it back up where cracks are, the lath pulls away from the studs, causing the cracks to get worse. <S> If you are determined to use plaster, you must use a bonding agent, plaster weld, for the new plaster to adhere to the old. <S> Your best bet would be to use a product called easy sand. <S> It is a drywall product that works the same as plaster (no bonding agent needed). <S> If you are going from room to room remodeling your house, you will be much better off gutting the entire room, hanging new wallboard and finishing it. <S> Smooth plaster is very difficult especially for a home owner. <S> Gouging them out and mesh taping will not stop the cracks. <S> Cracks are caused by movement, where the lath nails have pulled out from the studs. <S> Good luck. <A> While the most common answer is "patch it with drywall", it can be done in lathe. <S> Save the lathe during the demolition. <S> Be very gentle, and use a fine tooth blade on any saw (preferably use a handsaw). <S> Don't stress the old lathe. <S> Now nail the lathe back in place. <S> If you come up short on wood, check a garden store for a cheap trellis to disassemble. <S> You can nail metal lathe over the wood lath, but it's really not needed. <S> Coat the plaster edges with a concrete bonding agent, or at least spritz them with water (else they'll draw water out of your new plaster and create cracks). <S> Do two coats of "structalite", or another lightweight plaster. <S> Your top coat need not be fully even, because your existing plaster is not fully even. <S> Now prime. <S> Wait. <S> Prime. <S> Paint. <A> I am a homeowner/hobbyist that loves fixing up old houses. <S> Lath and plaster was a special challenge towards my endeavor to perfection. <S> Many attempts at trial and error before this solution. <S> Clean all loose plaster from the damaged area and secure the exposed lath with small ring shank nails. <S> ensure you pre drill all screw holes to avoid cracking the lath. <S> Leaving a 2" space between the existing plaster and the repair piece of drywall. <S> Most doityourself stores carry cutdown pieces of drywall. <S> The final coat of joint compound should be at least 1/8 inch above any taped areas. <S> Feather edge the plaster and drywall with a orbital sander using 40 grit sandpaper. <S> Do NOT break the bond of plaster that has adhered to the back side of the "good" plaster. <S> Clean all surfaces with a vacuum cleaner. <S> Spray lath and feathered plaster with a light coat of water and apply a thin coat (1/8 in.) <S> of joint compound to all exposed surfaces. <S> Apply 1 layer of drywall tape. <S> Nylon tape works best, however, I have used both paper and nylon. <S> Apply nylon directly to the feathered plaster, lath and feathered drywall, overlapping all strips. <S> (Spray paper tape with water prior to applying to surface.)Apply a second light coat of joint compound to all exposed surfaces. <S> Allow this step to set, but not cure. <S> Apply buildup layers, as needed, until all surfaces are smooth and even. <S> Allow this process to dry until cured. <S> Usually overnight. <S> Joint compound shrinks as it drys so additional build ups may be needed to achieve a smooth, even final patch. <S> Remember to keep all paper/nylon tape at least 1/8 in. <S> below the final surface of your patch. <S> Sand patch and surrounding plaster smooth. <S> Fill and smooth as needed. <S> Texture to blend with surrounding plaster. <S> Joe from Yuma
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If the depth of existing plaster is greater than (on hand) drywall, then add a piece of drywall to the exposed lath with drywall screws, With wood lath, it can never guarantee the cracks will not return. When you purchase your patch, ensure you buy a piece that is narrower than the lowest spot of your patch.
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How to get rid of moisture in hardwood flooring? We have recently come to a halt with our building due to our hardwood floorboards cupping and swelling in several places.(Boards were acclimatized for several months before installation) They were laid by a so called professional installer, who sealed the concrete first then laid the boards, sanded and applied only one coat of lacquer. Within a month we noticed boards cupping and swelling!! The installer has no idea of the cause and wanted more money to fix the boards, but not fix the cause of the problem. Since then we have given him the boot!! (unfortunately paid him majority of the money!! and heard nothing from him since!!) My husband (handyman) replaced the popped up boards and sanded the entire area lightly at first waited another few months then sanded the entire area again. Now are faced with the moisture coming up through the joins as pictured. Is there any solution? Our next step is an expensive inspector, but unfortunately money is an issue right now. If there's anybody out there that has had this problem or knows how to solve or point us in the right direction would be so helpful. Beginning of problem. Another pic, repair stage boards replaced and lightly sanded. Within a week of sanding Moisture coming up. <Q> Your problem is obvious. <S> Moisture is migrating up from the slab. <S> I don't imagine anyone suggested to do a moisture check on the concrete before you started? <S> There are meters that can measure the % of moisture in concrete. <S> With that said, it is never a good idea to put wood or laminate directly on concrete slabs or uncured concrete upper floors. <S> In your case, you said the concrete was sealed. <S> How was it sealed and with what? <S> One of the only products that seals and creates a vapor barrier is DryLoc. <S> Even using DryLoc, some sort of underlayment should be used. <S> The old way was to lay pearlings across the slab, put on a plywood subfloor and then your finish floor. <S> Today there are several subfloor products that resemble 2'X 2" or 2" X 4" panels with a waffled plastic base and a resin embedded or synthetic subfloor attached. <S> These panels interlock covering the concrete and create a vapor barrier. <S> The materials in these products resist mold and mildew and allow any water to escape if you have floor drains etc. <S> Unfortunately, once hardwood has cupped badly or water stained from the bottom up, it is usually junk and cannot be reused. <S> Sometimes if the cupping is minor, exposing it to a very dry environment for some time will allow it to flatten out, but I sure would not count on it. <S> In your case, I fear you have no alternative but to rip it all out and start from scratch. <S> This time, address the moisture or possible water leak in the concrete first. <S> Use a proper subfloor, or select a different kind of flooring that is not susceptible to damage from moisture. <A> It is possible most of your flooring can be salvaged. <S> I see a small area where it might not be able to <S> but this depends of the install. <S> If the tongue/groove are glued you have almost no chance of pulling the board apart for reuse <S> but if they are just "locked" then you are better off. <S> The key is that I would under no circumstance lay anything on that floor in the future. <S> Then you need to have a foam/rubber barrier then plywood. <S> The floor will be raised an inch at least - it is a bigger project getting the subfloor in place than the flooring. <S> That leaves me to a suggestion. <S> You cannot always get exactly what you want in every situation. <S> I would not suggest hardwood or carpet in this area. <S> I would simply seal the concrete with something like dryloc and then install an all vinyl/rubber engineered flooring. <S> Home Depot carries a really good brand of thick vinyl planking that I have installed many times. <S> builddirect.com also has a variety of this flooring - very reputable site. <A> This thread is dead, but I know the problem. <S> Condensation. <S> Simple.... <S> Colder concrete than air temp, water condenses on the sealed slab. <S> The dehumidifier would work, if you want to slather on chapstick and lotion all summer. <S> Tile is better on concrete. <S> Period. <S> Vinyl and floating laminate wood floors are for either poor or uneducated people. <S> The very best solution is tile, with ditramat or another form of crack isolation, then use tiles that look like hardwoods... <S> they are expensive, so is the mistake that was made here. <S> Very expensive. <S> I am a licensed NC contractor, specializing in being on site, swinging a hammer myself, and building one or two totally custom homes a year. <A> I had a similar issue last year with my floor and <S> my carpenter had me run a dehumidifier for a few days and the results were successful, so I invested in a good dehumidifier which ran me 400.00. <S> But well worth it in the long run. <S> Good luck!! <A> Do you have a space around the perimiter of the room? <S> There should be about a quarter inch gap between the wall and were the wood floor ends. <S> That gap is meant to handle the shifting of wood, weather it be due to water, humidity, and/or the house shifting through the years. <S> I'm not saying that would have totaly prevented your situation. <S> I'm just stateing that there is a purpose for that gap, and without it you are Guaranteed to run into these problems sooner than later... <S> carrieing on through out its life unless fixed.
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Before you rip out the whole floor you might want to consider renting a dehumidifier first. You need to have the concrete sealed. There are several vinyl plank type floors that look like wood or tile that are good choices in a damper area.
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3 wire service to panel... neutral and ground wires on the same bar? I'm getting two conflicting reports and was wondering if anyone can help me. I was told that on the distribution panel, grounded conductors (neutral) and ground wires need to be separated in the distribution panel. The point of disconnect is at the meter and the neutral and ground wires, apparently, have to be separated downstream of the point of disconnect for proper grounding system. Is this true? I got a second opinion and was told that on a 3 wire service to panel, neutral and ground wires are allowed to be terminated on the same bar. Any help would be really appreciated. Thank you all!! <Q> Whoever told you the meter was the point of disconnect was dead wrong. <S> The main panel or disconnect is the first means of overcurrent or disconnect. <S> THIS is where your neutral bond must happen. <S> 2011 <S> NEC Article 250 Grounding and Bonding II. <S> System Grounding <S> 250.24 <S> Grounding Service-Supplied Alternating-Current Systems <S> (B) <S> Main Bonding Jumper. <S> For a grounded system, an unspliced main bonding jumper shall be used to connect the equipment grounding conductor(s) and the service-disconnect enclosure to the grounded conductor within the enclosure for each service disconnect in accordance with 250.28. <S> * <A> The grounded (neutral) conductor is bonded to ground in one location. <S> It's common to bond the grounded (neutral) bus and the grounding bus in the panel, but it's not a requirement. <S> The grounded (neutral) conductor can be bonded before the panel, but you'd then be required to keep the grounding and grounded (neutral) conductors separate after that point. <S> So if you bond the grounded (neutral) conductor before the panel, you'll have to pull a separate grounding conductor along with the grounded (neutral) and two ungrounded (hot) conductors. <S> In most cases the main breaker in the panel is used as the main disconnect, which is why the grounded (neutral) conductor is typically bonded there. <S> If, however, there is a disconnect before the panel. <S> It's likely that, that will be the location where the grounded (neutral) conductor will be bonded. <S> If this is the case, the grounded (neutral) and grounding conductors must be kept separate after this point in the system. <S> So if the grounded (neutral) conductor is bonded before the panel, you'll have to have 4 conductors from the point of bonding to the panel. <A> If it is a back to back service, with only a meter outside and a main breaker inside, then the inside panel must have a neutral and ground bonded together. <S> Sub panels cannot have a relationship between the ground and neutral. <S> If you have a free standing service with a meter main combo, you must drive 2 ground rods at 6 feet apart, and the bonding must happen there. <S> Get it! <S> Got it! <S> Good! <S> I know this because I have an inspector that likes to teach.
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If it is a meter main combo, with an extended service, the neutral and ground must be bonded together at the meter main combo and separated at the interior panel.
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How to fit 4" rigid aluminum duct vent in between walls when there is an angle brace? I want to do what these people have done here: The problem is I have bracing going diagonally and it is not leaving enough space for the 4" aluminum duct vent. Can I saw the bracing off for the 1 section where I need to pass the pipe? I assume not.. What else can I do ? <Q> I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. <S> Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) <S> is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down. <S> Clearly nobody ever cleaned it due to the annoyance of having to get up on the roof, and as a result it was entirely blocked by lint and dust, with a bunch of creepy-crawlies living in it due to disuse and abundant organic material during an unoccupied period. <S> Not only that, but a section of the ducting had gotten open and was depositing moist air right into the wall cavity, which eventually invited termites into that wall: <S> Do the world a favor and don't hide your dryer ductwork inside a framed wall and vent it through the roof! <A> You can get it as small as 3" in the smaller dimension, but it will likely be a lot harder to find and a lot more expensive. <S> I would also limit yourself to one transition for that reason - a round-oval-round would collect a ton of lint. <A> For example you could attach 2x2s to the edge of each stud to open up the wall cavity to another 1.5". <S> This actually removes only a small amount of finished space in the room. <A> I definitely agree with iLikeDirt, but if you have no choice you can use oval duct such as this: <S> http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Skinny-Duct-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-br-4-Oval-Duct-Adjustable-27-48-4p445.htm <S> If anything, as a safety precaution you should foil tape ALL joints and even elbows. <S> I do this as standard even for exposed duct work. <S> DO NOT use typical duct tape as "duct tape" is terrible for duct work since the glue does dry out over time and will eventually fail. <S> An example of foil tape: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-322-1-57-64-in-x-50-yds-Aluminum-Foil-Tape-3220020500/100030120 <S> Interesting read: http://www.lbl.gov/Science-Articles/Archive/duct-tape-HVAC.html <A> The brace you refer to was probably put there to keep the house framing square until all exterior sheathing was installed. <S> Cutting a notch in the bracing seems a fine alternative long as you inspect lint buildup in venting at regular intervals.
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Also, it will compound the issue @iLikeDirt pointed out in keeping it clean, especially if you have transitions to round pipe anywhere. I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like the one in your picture which vented through the roof. If done all the way across one wall surface you would probably hardly realize that that one wall was "thicker" once all finished off. The sheathing now serves as bracing long as it was nailed to code. Another alternative is to build out one side of the wall that is away from the brace side. One thing you could look into would be flat oval ducting: After the install you can put hurricane straps connecting that brace which is thin and sheetrock can go over it without noticing.
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What's the true longevity of exposed fastener metal roofs? I want to replace my roof. Exposed-fastener metal roofs are popular and common where I live, but nobody nearby has owned one long enough to really comment on the longevity. I worry that over time, the metal's thermal expansion and contraction with ambient temperature changes will eventually enlarge the screw holes to the point where a million tiny leaks will appear. That doesn't sound good. It seems that rubber or neoprene washers are used to alleviate this danger but that seems like putting a band-aid on it. For this reason, I'm looking at metal shingle and standing seam roofs, but both are more expensive. Are my concerns about an exposed-fastener metal roof justified? Or are we talking about a difference in longevity of like 50 compared to 100 years? <Q> I work for a metal roofing company, and this is a big area of concern for a lot of homeowners. <S> Here's what I can say: based on experience and facts. <S> 8-10 years ago, the fasteners on exposed metal roofing were terrible. <S> They failed CONSISTENTLY. <S> There were very few competing fastener companies and rubber washers cracked and leaked like crazy. <S> And when your next best option is a concealed fasten standing seam at twice the price, metal roofing was unpopular. <S> At the time, metal roofing only represented about 2% of the residential market. <S> Fastforward to present day. <S> There are several large fastener companies and there is a ton of competition for the best performing screw. <S> Our company uses screws with a neoprene washer (already light years better than traditional rubber) that is independent from the screw head allowing overcorrection during install. <S> They also have a slightly larger and slightly domed metal washer stacked on top which creates an umbrella for the neoprene that guards it against the UV rays that cause cracking. <S> Some companies are now even offering screws with oversized heads and washers with military grade strength that are guaranteed for life, even against backing out! <S> This year, in the Southeast, metal roofing saw a rise in popularity to 14% of the residential market, and the majority of it is an exposed fasten system. <S> 2% to 14% in 8 years <S> and we wouldn't have that kind of growth if the roof systems were failing consistenly. <S> Of course, DO YOUR RESEARCH. <S> Buy from a reputable company that uses good screws and make sure that your installer is experienced with metal. <A> It depends on the quality of installation, but on average exposed fastener metal roofs (which do, indeed, use EDPM washers if not of very low quality and life-expectancy) are a 15-25 year roof, while a quality standing seam job is a 50 year roof. <S> The EDPM washer is not a band-aid - it's a part of this roofing system design (and most of the fasteners are located on top of ribs <S> so they see very little water - also part of the design.) <S> Standing-seam should be very similar for the basic cost of material and forming, but is always quoted much higher (IME) making it economically dubious despite the potential longer life. <S> A bad job of either may not be leak-free for a month. <A> Your concern with exposed-fastener metal roofs is justified. <S> But neoprene washers aren't a band-aid. <S> They form a part of the design of metal roofs. <S> Another solution is you can opt for a fastener with a non-metallic head fully covering the neoprene washer available at metal buildings colorado . <S> This kind of fasteners makes the head of the fastener rust-proof, and thus the washer becomes virtually a lifetime product. <S> On an average, the lifetime of such a metal roof is 20-30 years. <A> I think it depends on where you live. <S> I live where we get a ton of rain <S> and it blows sideways. <S> When the metal roofing expands and contracts, it causes the head of the screw to move, thus the neoprene washer moves. <S> It often gets “tweaked” from the movement causing one side of the washer to curl up. <S> This allows wind blown rain to penetrate the roofing system. <S> Here, we use concealed fasteners. <S> The cost is nearly the same and there’s no chance of leakage, because the fasteners are protected from the environment and the metal panels are connected together...but can slide due to expansion and contraction. <S> If you get much rain (or snow) <S> I’d consider concealed fastener metal roof over exposed fastener metal roof.
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We are seeing screws that at this point can live roughly 50 years if not longer without failed washers. If you want to go for exposed-fastener metal roofs be sure you get them of good quality and their installation is done correctly.
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Do I really have to cut my wood flooring to a 1 inch width? So my flooring in almost done, I have about 99% of it installed. The only problem is that the gap between the last board and the wall is only 1 1/2 inches. Is my only option really to cut down these nice full pieces of flooring into strips? Worse so is that it is Uniclic bamboo so that means I can't cut 1 piece into 4 strips but that I have to cut a full piece to get each strip (cut all the tongue sides off to fit into the grove of the piece before it)?!?! Is there any work around for this? I have the same gap in all 4 rooms, that's going to be about $200 worth of flooring that will be 75% thrown away! <Q> At this point, the answer is yes. <S> You can plan to avoid this kind of thing in the design phase by ripping down the first row, but if you're already 99% done with the install, it's a bit late for that. <S> One final, <S> if not ideal option is to have a really wide baseboard and add shoe molding to the bottom, which could conceivably cover up that kind of gap, but you'd have to commit to doing this on all the walls or else it will look funny. <A> Yes you have to rip them <S> and yes you only get one per board. <S> You cannot cut the tongue off or install without the tongue. <S> It will never look right and isn't worth trying to bastardize the install. <S> Also don't think about it as $200. <S> If you planned out the room you would have cut half the board out on your first row and the other half on the last row. <S> I did a very large room in my own house. <S> I measure and did the calculations so that my last board would be full or almost... <S> So in the corner there is no "board" needed and <S> then at the other end of the room it goes to almost 2 inches. <S> It was a pain. <S> 3 years later, it looks great. <S> I have no issues and even "knowing" that I have the small cut <S> it doesn't bother me even a little. <S> So the advice is to install as normal. <S> If you want to extend the pieces by another 1/2 inch for more stability then cut out bottom inch of drywall. <A> A strip 1 inch wide won't sit flush - it will keep popping up (we have some laminate in our house done by previous owners with the same issue - sadly you need to plan at the beginning to stop this happening)Put baseboards plus a quarter round that matches the floor and put it down to experience.
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I had to angle off all my boards and cut out drywall bottoms because the first cuts were too small to make. You would have used the same amount of boards. Well I didn't think about the walls not being 90 degrees at all.
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How do I cut 1968 cast iron rough sewage pipe? I have a rough in bathroom that was done in 1968 for the homeowners to finish. Cast iron pipes for shower and toilet are about 4 in. out of floor. How do I go about cutting them to install a toilet and a shower? To be flush with the concrete floor. <Q> Usually, the easiest way to cut cast iron pipe is with a snap cutter, but I don't think you could cut it completely flush with one. <S> A sawzall with a long diamond tip blade might work for you. <S> Alternatively, you could frame a wood floor to the height of your pipes. <A> If they really need to be flush, I'd recommend using a 4½" angle grinder. <S> Cut the pipe close to the concrete with an aluminum oxide abrasive cut off wheel. <S> Spring for the good ones, and get an extra. <S> Finish the job with a flap disc, which will allow you to get in nice and close with good control. <S> Your application won't require anything finer than 40Grit, which will give you a decent rate of material removal. <S> Use a type 27 zirconia alumina disc. <S> And PLEASE USE EYE PROTECTION. <A> Had a half bath where the 61 yr. <S> old commode had a very slow constant leak/refill issue. <S> Replaced all the internal parts possible, some twice. <S> When I pulled it up to replace wax seal, noticed that the cast iron pipe was rigid and uneven/wavy with 1/2 inch or more differences in height. <S> Took my angle grinderwith 40 grit ferrous metal cutter to it, after attempt with oscillating tool with metal cutting attachment. <S> In 45 minutes, it wore out cutting just two inches. <S> The angle cutter took 10 minutes, never wore out blade.*SPARKS! <S> Tip: <S> because of limited space, location, and sparks, I soaked old, large work towels dripping wet. <S> I spread them out covering newly installed beadboard, baseboards, and flooring. <S> I stuffed pipe to prevent metal from going down drain. <S> IMPORTANT Keep a large bucket of water and a fire extinguisher within arms reach. <S> I used nearly all the water to cool the wet towel in pipe, and rewet others.*There is alot of "dust", but a lot it got caught up in the towels. <S> Still had to clean up from ceiling down. <S> Use rags you can throw away, there will be dirty greasy wax in the "dust". <S> Don't bother rinsing out, gets gummy and rusty, just throw away. <S> Will clean up easier and faster.
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A diamond wheel in an angle grinder is another possibility. Use the widely known name brand, blue grease cutting dish soap full strength on wet disposable rags.
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Do brass ball valves have to be oriented with the flow of water? I bought this brass ball valve from Home Depot and installed it in the orientation of what I would consider "backwards". I'm not sure if it actually matters and before I close up the wall I would like to make sure orientation isn't an issue with these. My use of the term "backwards" in this case is when the handle points against the flow of water in the open state. Model: NSF61-8? <Q> If a valve has directionality, it will almost universally be cast as an arrow in of the body, as seen in this globe (aka stop) <S> valve: <S> I've never seen a ball valve that is directional. <S> If you look inside, you'll see the guts of it are symmetrical. <S> I would say the general rules of thumb for this are: If you can even change the handle direction, be sure that off is perpendicular to the pipe. <S> If clearance or safety is an issue, then install it in the way that works or is safest . <S> For example, if it's sticking out when it's off and likely for someone to accidentally bump into or get caught on it, then install it the other way <S> so that doesn't happen. <S> If clearance and safety are non-issues, and there are other valves present, then follow the convention of existing valves . <S> If you have pipes that flow in opposite directions it's very handy to ensure the valves indicate this. <S> There are probably regional and/or industry-specific variations to this, but as far as North American potable water goes, this is it. <A> I installed a brass ball valve about 13 years ago with the handle pointing against the flow when in the on position. <S> It has worked perfectly. <S> My valve is female by female so the direction did not matter when assembly the piping. <S> In short: a ball is round <S> so direction does no matter. <S> If a valve must be installed in a certain direction is should have an arrow cast into the body showing the direction of flow. <A> Without hunting through all the spec sheets to find your particular valve or at least one that looks just like it (not having a number) I note that none of the spec sheets I did examine at Apollo valve for brass/bronze ball valves indicated any directionality (and in fact, you can usually put the handle on the opposite way if it's more convenient. <S> Perhaps not on that model, looking closely.) <S> Apollo Valve Spec Sheets <S> This also matches my experience using ball valves, generically. <A> Pipe fitters in NYC have a local rule that the incoming water be piped to the cast side, leaving water on the side with the seam. <A> According to this, their ball valves are bi-directional http://www.apollovalves.com/_products/94ALF-A/IOM_I908900.pdf <A> I used one on a 1/2" water line supplying an outdoor faucet. <S> It doesn't matter which way you. <S> The one I used was the SharkBite brand from Home Depot. <S> The only indication on it was the direction the shark was swimming <A> Pointing the handle where the flow comes from is the way to go I think because, you can open unscrew the part of the valve that can be unscrewed without having to remove the valve.
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If there's no existing valves, and no clearance issue, then the most common convention is to have the handle point in the direction of flow.
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Should I install a floor drain in my laundry room? I am relocating my laundry to a room over my garage. I have an opportunity to put in a floor drain. My old laundry has a floor drain (not sure why -- it is carpet and subfloor with only crawlspace below). Putting in the new drain will not be easy. It requires finding space for the trap and crossing a couple of 2x10 joists (12-OC) with 2 inch pipe. I do not intend to slope the floor towards the drain, but do intend to have Marmoleum or vinyl flooring. Again, it is only garage/shop below. So at worst I would lose drywall and insulation and maybe some tools(!). My previous home did not have a drain in the laundry room, but drains/pans seem to be common practice these days? <Q> Consider that a typical washing machine holds roughly 40 gallons of water. <S> Now imagine that all gushing out onto the floor at the same time. <S> I've never seen this happen because of a washing machine failure, but I have seen it happen when the drain line from the washing machine pulled out <S> and it wasn't a very pretty sight. <S> If you have the opportunity to put in a floor drain, I'd do it - it doesn't add much work, but certainly beats ripping out a garage ceiling to replace wet drywall and insulation. <A> Even if you always shut off the water supply when the machine is not in use, there is always the risk of failure while the machine is running. <S> The hydraulic shock of the washer's on/off valves could be the last straw for the hoses. <S> In a related note, is the structure of a "room over my garage" speced for the dynamic load of an out-of-balance washing machine? <A> From personal experience my husband and I made the mistake of installing a new washing machine in our 2nd floor laundry room without properly placing a pan underneath the machine. <S> We were thinking it was new <S> so there was no chance of it leaking at least not for a long time. <S> Boy were we wrong! <S> Three days later, a disaster filled the laundry room floor, out into the hallway and started down the stairs. <S> There was something inside the machine that had not been tightened properly. <S> The thought of having to replace our wood floors was horrifying! <S> My husband immediately ordered a drain pan for the washing machine, custom I might add, so it works perfect! <S> The company even put a hole in the pan exactly where we needed it to attach to our drain pipe. <S> He purchased it from Killarney Metals. <S> They help take the worry off of us regarding another disaster like that happening again!
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In some jurisdictions, floor drains in a laundry are a requirement of the local building code. Another significant risk is from a failure of the filler hoses; they have the potential to dump much more than 40 gallons on the floor.
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Does electrical wires on exterior need to be in conduit? Do I need to run electrical wires exiting the breaker box on the exterior wall of the house & traveling across the wall in conduit or can the wires be stapled to the wood siding with steel staples? <Q> In the US -- the general rule is that outdoor rated cables (MC, SE, and sunlight-resistant UF are the only ones you'll see in residential work -- <S> AC isn't allowed in damp/wet locations, nor is NM of course) can be run in the open provided <S> they cannot be subject to physical damage -- if your cable is running anywhere where people can run into it, mow it, whack it, or trip on it, you'll need to install your wire (THWN) or cable (there are no Code objections to pulling intact SE or UF through conduit, although it may annoy the next electrician who works on it) in RMC, IMC, schedule 80 PVC, or RTRC-XW to provide protection from said physical damage, as per NEC 300.5(D)(4): <S> (4) Enclosure or Raceway Damage. <S> Where the enclosure or raceway is subject to physical damage, the conductors shall be installed in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, RTRC-XW, Schedule 80 PVC conduit, or equivalent. <A> It depends. <S> As @bib implies in a comment, it depends where you are. <S> It depends what type of wire you are using - it must be exterior rated for both water and sunlight exposure. <S> It may depend what type of structure it's on <S> (many things that are fine in the US on a "residence" are strictly forbidden in "commercial work.") <S> In some cases the residential work should at least consider meeting the higher standard as a minor investment resulting in greater safety. <S> Code is a minimum, it's fine to exceed it. <S> In some cases the conduit approach is actually cheaper than exterior cables*, and it's certainly more damage-resistant. <S> However, it's not uncommon for 3-4 wet-rated wires to be cheaper than the same number and size of wires grouped as an exterior cable to an extent that will pay for the conduit to put them in. <A> They need to be in conduit for 2 reasons. <S> First, exposed wiring needs to be protected from damage and stapling bare wire to the siding would not qualify. <S> Burying it at least 24" would qualify, but any portion above that would still need to have some sort of damage protection (conduit). <S> Second, exterior boxes, receptacles, and entry/exit points need to be weatherproof. <S> Conduit provide a means to weatherproof the ends of the runs, and I doubt any other method would be suitable for a horizontal run.
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*Any wire in a conduit that is outside must be rated for wet locations.
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Fix a copper pipe leak I have a copper T joint that is leaking on one side, what is the best way to repair this joint that does not involve cutting the joint out and starting over? -- Update -- The pipe in question is for hot water and is soldered together. <Q> Sometimes when undertaking a repair like this it can be advantageous to incorporate a UNION fitting into the line to permit the last connections to be joined together. <S> A union fitting looks like this. <S> When assembling the union into the piping system do not forget to slide the brass nut part onto the pipe before soldering the unthreaded coupling part onto the pipe end. <A> Nothing needs to be cut , barring a very strange installation. <S> Unions in soldered copper pipe sytems are extremely rare, and there's good reason for that. <S> Applying more solder and flux without disassembly <S> (note: not cutting) is unlikley to work. <S> Assess <S> your ability to use a torch without burning the house down - a plumber is a lot cheaper than even a small fire. <S> If you pass that test, drain the pipe, leaving the nearest taps open (don't want any steam pressure to build up) apply flux, apply heat, and pull on the pipes. <S> There is nearly always enough give in the piping system to allow joint disassembly. <S> If present, a few clamps of the "hold pipe to wall" type may need to be loosened to provide that give. <S> With the pipes apart, clean the joint surfaces inside and out throughly. <S> Start with a damp rag in a gloved hand to wipe off as much solder as possible when the solder is still molten from heating to pull it apart. <S> It may be worth using a new Tee, but even on new fittings, clean the surfaces throughly - <S> it's essential to getting a good solder joint. <S> Apply flux, reassemble. <S> Apply heat to the joint GENTLY and dab with the solder (not in the flame - to the pipe/socket interface) watching for the point where the pipe/fitting melt the solder and pull it into the joint. <S> Excessive heat is BAD, and can only be solved by disassembling and cleaning again. <A> If the real reason you don't want to cut it out is because you don't want to solder anything back in, consider something like Sharkbite connectors. <S> These connectors are snap-on fittings for copper pipe. <S> You just cut out the bad section of your copper pipe and replace it with equivalent Sharkbite fittings. <S> It's almost as easy as Legos. <A> I am assuming you have a pin hole leak and the pipe is holding water. <S> Not gas. <S> If the leak is small, a drip, and it's located on one of the arms of the T, you could potentially wrap the arm with gasket rubber and put a hose clamp around the gasket material. <S> This is a temporary fix and the only correct way to fix this is to replace the T. <S> But since your requirement is to do it without cutting the pipe either do it this way or via the method described in the first comment (drain and solder). <S> Make sure you cut a piece of gasket rubber large enough to wrap the entire circumference of the pipe and wider than the hose clamp you're using. <S> If the pin hole is directly opposite the intersection of the T, you might have to drain and solder as you won't be able to apply pressure with the hose clamp. <A> There is no 'best way without redoing the connection', unfortunately. <S> Ecnerwal has the most affordable solution. <S> Disassemble and re-sweat the joint. <S> Easy for a plumber. <S> Certainly doable DIY, but, personally, I find it a bit of a pain. <S> You're often dealing with fire in a confined space and you have to make sure everything is absolutely dry to work on it. <S> For repairs and small DIY plumbing, I really prefer the Sharkbite products that longneck suggests for a number of reasons: <S> they work with copper and PEX <S> you don't need the line to be perfectly dry <S> the connectors allow the pipes to rotate (making it a lot easier too assemble in tight spaces) <S> you can easily take them apart if you screw up. <S> In terms of easy assembly, I'd suggest the following: <S> ++ || || C <S> || <S> + <S> + <S> + <S> + | | |3 <S> | | <S> | <S> | <S> | <S> + <S> + <S> ++ <S> || <S> || P || <S> + <S> + <S> + <S> + <S> +-+ <S> ++ <S> |+-----+1+-----| <S> 2 |+-----+ + <S> -----| <S> | C <S> +-+ <S> P <S> ++ | <S> + <S> + <S> ++ <S> || <S> || P || <S> + <S> + <S> ++ |1 <S> | <S> + <S> + <S> ++ || || C || || <S> ++ C = existing copper (you've cut out the 'T' and a bit of the copper) <S> P = PEX pipe (cheaper, lighter, and easier to cut than copper) 1 = sharkbite junctions to connect the copper to PEX 2 <S> = sharkbite T <S> 3 = sharkbite slip connector To install, cut out the existing leaking T and back a bit to make room for all the connectors. <S> Install the #1s and the #3 first. <S> Then connect the T to the #1s with PEX. <S> Finally, connect the T to the slip connector with PEX. <S> The slip connector is the key to making this all easy, the slip connector slides up on the copper giving you room to put everything else in, then slides back down to make the connection. <S> The only drawback to all of this is cost. <S> Sharkbites cost quite a bit. <S> You're probably looking at $25 worth of connectors there (plus $3 of PEX). <S> Still, that's cheaper than getting a plumber and saves a WHOLE lot of time.
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If this is soldered copper slip joint fittings there really is no other choice other than cutting out the faulty parts and starting over.
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Why is water from the dispenser slow after replacing the water filter on my refrigerator? At one of our rental properties, we have a GE GSH25JFXN WW Refrigerator. Our tenant changed out the water filter because of the recommended time to change it. He said that before he changed the filter there was good water flow at the water dispenser. After changing the filter, water flow at the dispenser was slow. Here's his e-mail before I went out there yesterday "Thanks for the email. I changed out the filter because it had been on for longer than 6 months. When I took the old filter off, that's when I noticed there might be a potential leak (where the filter is attached). I installed the new filter and the water would barely come out. I've changed out the filter before and never had this issue. I gave the reservoir time to fill and I also held down the water dispensing mechanism for 5 minutes (at the request of GE customer service to make sure any air was pushed out of the tubing). Was still slow coming out. GE recommended trying another filter in case the one I got was defective. I bought the official GE MWF water filter each time and am still having the same problem. My rough estimation is that it's taking 7 seconds to fill about 1 ounce." Here's a picture of the point of connection for the water dispenser. Also when you take out the water filter, it kind of leaks at the connection and it stops when I press on a little white button on the right. I went there yesterday to try some things: I checked to see if there weren't any kinks in the piping. I found none. I tried this solution. http://boogster.blogspot.com/2011/10/ge-profile-refrigerator-slow-water.html I didn't know what part the person was sharpening. I tried cleaning the water discharge at the filter with a pipe cleaner and didn't feel like there was any blockage there. So I noticed that he turned off the icemaker. I asked him to turn on the icemaker to see if any ice were to be made. This was around 5:30pm yesterday. I followed up with them today (12 noon) and he said the following: "Just looked actually. Ice was made but not very much at all. The ice was also thin and even hollow in some spots so it's not getting very much water to make the ice." I wanted to see if it's the main water supply to refrigerator or something that is just affecting just the water dispenser. I have attached pictures of the water filters for reference. There is a slight difference in the both of them. The old one is on the right. <Q> I had the same issue and it turned out to be air in the system. <S> When you install a new filter, it's full of air. <S> I took out the filter, dumped out the water out of the filter, refilled the filter in the sink, and reinstalled the filter. <S> It took a few tries to get all of the air out of the system. <A> Yes, air will have that effect. <S> Other things to consider... <S> If there is a valve that feeds the fridge, make sure it is all the way open (even if there is no need to shut it off to change the filtrr... <S> The tenant may have done so and then not turned it all the way back on). <S> Also, for my fridge at least, not all filters are the same. <S> The whiz bang filter model that includes carbon flows much more slowly than the cheap filter. <S> Last, I've never seen a fridge with its own water pump. <S> They just use line pressure, hence my advice to make sure all feed valves are all the way open. <A> I've just ran into the exact same issue with our GE water dispenser. <S> I'm suspecting the water pump since the water pressure at the filter hookup is good. <S> It will fill a bit, then pump a bit out and then slow down to a crawl. <S> Every other time I've replaced the filter, the water shot out like crazy. <A> When I had the same issue I just bypassed the filter by connecting the water source directly to the water inlet. <S> This showed me that there was an issue somewhere between the water filter and the water inlet. <A> The problem is the filter. <S> After years of experiencing slow water (directly after changing filter) I took the filter out and inserted the bypass. <S> Now a glass that took 3 mins to fill takes 3 seconds. <S> I read somewhere that the problem can be solved by putting a dime sized washer over the head will also fix it. <A> Well I took a look at the new filter and it had an o-ring in side the filter, and I took this out, <S> re-installed the filter and water flows like it did when new. <S> So it appears the filter have evolved. <S> I figured since the valve already had two O-rings I would be safe. <S> Water flow good and no leaks
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Apparently the filter is obstructing the water flow.
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How to properly ground a subpanel in detached building? I Will be installing a subpanel in a detached garage. The subpanel will be 60 amp. The garage is about 30' from the main-panel in-house, and I will of course get an exact length before selecting the proper gauge wiring. I'll be using pvc underground for the wiring. There is already existing wiring going underground from the house to the garage, which will no longer be used. When it comes to grounding this subpanel, should I run a grounding conductor from the main panel to the new sub, or ground the sub to earth? Reading this answer sounds like I would have to ground the subpanel to the main, primarily because in my situation this is a new install. All other variables I have control over. If so, I would be running 4 wires from the main panel to the sub, 2 hots, 1 neutral, and 1 ground correct? Then, at the subpanel, the ground bus bar and the neutral bus bar would not be connected, and the grounding screw removed from the ground bus bar? Lastly, a GFCI Breaker must be used at the main, right? I believe this is true for any subpanel in a detached building, just want to be sure. <Q> Pull 4 conductors (2 ungrounded (hot), 1 grounded (neutral), 1 grounding) (250.32(B)(1)). <S> Grounded (neutral) and grounding bus must be separate at sub-panel (250.32(B)(1)). <S> No need for a GFCI breaker in the main panel, unless your local code requires it. <S> A grounding electrode system is required at the second structure (250.32(A)). <A> Doing this right now. <S> Simple 50 amp sub feed to a shed. <S> Two hots (ungrounded conductor), one neutral, one ground (equipment grounding conductor) in 1" pvc. <S> Simple, that's how you do it. <A> The ground should always be attached anywhere there is a potential to have a live wire touch any metal that the ground should be tied to so that current will travel down the ground wire to the earth and not into anyone that grabs a box or piece of equipment or device that is shorted slightly but enough to hurt someone if touched. <S> There are ground fault protection devices but fail sometimes. <S> I feel all grounds should not be tied to any neutral because voltage will be read from the hot to ground just like from hot to neutral once a circuit is applied and current flows and this will make your meter run more since it is using current to the earth. <S> I an not sure if i am right <S> but if you do disconnect the ground system from the neutral then you will not see current flowing to earth at 120 volts or 220 volts i think.
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Grounds are for any equipment that becomes shorted in itself and must always have a ground attached to the equipment and then run to a ground bar that is grounded to the ground. Ground rod at the shed.
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How do I determine the fill rating of a conduit? I Will be installing a subpanel in a detached garage. The subpanel will be 60 amp. The garage is about 30' from the main-panel in-house, and I will of course get an exact length before selecting the proper gauge wiring. I'll be using pvc underground for the wiring. There is already existing wiring going underground from the house to the garage, which will no longer be used. I saw a youtube video that mentioned that different sized PVC conduit have different limits on the number of conductors that can be ran through them underground. Is this true, and if so where can I find documentation on this? Specifically, the number of conductors for each size conduit. <Q> That is slightly different for different type conduits due to the different actual size of the hole in the different types of conduit. <S> There are charts in the NEC, and there are also a LOT of on-line conduit fill calculator s (and some charts .) <A> To determine the number of conductors allowed in a conduit, you can use Table 1, 4, and 5 from chapter 9 of the National Electrical Code. <S> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Chapter 9 Tables <S> If you're pulling more than 2 conductors, you'll only be able to fill the conduit 40%, according to Table 1. <S> To calculate conduit fill: Get the 40% area value from the table corresponding to the type of conduit you're using (Table 4). <S> Get the approximate area value for the size conductors you're using (Table 5). <S> Divide the 40% conduit area by the conductor area, to determine the number of conductors allowed. <S> NOTE: <S> When calculating conduit fill, if the calculation results in a decimal of 0.8 or larger, you can round to the next whole number. <S> EXAMPLE: - 1/2" <S> Schedule 40 PVC 40% fill = 0.114 in². <S> - 12 AWG THHN conductor <S> = 0.0133 in². <S> 0.114 in² <S> / 0.0133 in² = 8 <A> If you can settle for a 50amp feeder, not only is it the next smaller size wire, but it could mean the difference between 3/4" and 1" conduit. <S> That's a bigger difference than you might realize right now. <A> Adding to other answers: <S> As mentioned before, it is hard to pull wires in a just-big-enough conduit. <S> Allow for e.g. bending the pulled wires over the fish-tape and duct-taping them together <S> : gets to be quite a large bundle! <S> Use wire-pulling lube, water-based to not degrade insulation. <S> Make the fish-tape to wire junction smoothly tapered. <S> Plan conduit <S> so the bends in each pull are less than 360 degrees; under 270 is better. <S> NMT (PVC) glues together. <S> Plan conduit junction directions <S> so the bundle will be sliding into the tapered flares at joints, not hitting square pipe ends.
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All conduit has a fill rating (which equates to 40 % of the free area full of wire, unless there are only 1 or two wires - in practice, less fill is better - the full-rated fill is VERY hard to pull into conduit. If you're using all the same size conductors, you can use Table C.9 or C.10 from Annex C Annex C - Conduit and Tubing Fill Tables for Conductors and Fixture Wires of the Same Size
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How can I get a 60 Hz refrigerator to work on a 50 Hz system? I bought a refrigerator with 4 doors (model #: LMX31985st) in the USA, for use in Europe. I also bought the slow down converter. I'm afraid that the frequency in the USA is 60 hz, and in Europe it is 50 hz. Because of this, the appliance doesn't work. Does the slow down converter regulate the frequency, or could there be something wrong with it? <Q> You face many challenges with this refrigerator. <S> It is a discontinued model . <S> It is made for North American electricity. <S> It is made for North American kitchen space. <S> It will probably be too big for 95% of European kitchens: width, depth, and height. <S> Many European kitchen floors will not be able to hold its empty weight of 324 <S> pounds/147 kg , let alone loading it full of stuff. <S> Its weight loading is 36 pounds per square foot (empty) which should be okay in most buildings (less than an adult standing on the floor). <S> It will be very expensive to ship. <S> Probably at least half the price of a new fridge. <S> Maybe one like this for around $900 will do. <S> Some models allow input range from like 90 V to 250 V. <S> Most heftier, non-switch-through do the proper frequency conversion. <S> I looked for awhile but didn't see any less than $750. <A> Not sure what you mean by a "slow down converter", but I've used a transformer in the past, so I could use 110V, 60Hz devices from the USA on 220V, 50Hz power supply in India. <S> Some of these devices ran for years (think cordless phone base units, laptops, etc.) <S> , so I'm assuming stuff did convert properly. <S> Note that there are limits to how safely you can transform power. <S> For instance, the transformers I could buy wouldn't work with anything over a 100W or so draw, so huge appliances such as refrigerators are simply out of the question. <S> Also, I'm guessing there's going to be some sort of power loss, though I have no idea how to quantify that. <S> Effectively, you're better off buying something local to the area where you're going to use it, specifically for large appliances. <A> I just Google'd, "230vac, 50hz to 120vac, 60hz converter" and nothing that would be anywhere near suitable for you was found. <S> There is equipment that can do that, but it would probably cost more than your fridge. <S> Motors are AC frequency sensitive and it's the AC frequency <S> that's the hardest thing to convert. <S> A refrigerator's main component is a motor that runs a compressor. <A> We brought our 110v 60HZ fridge from the USA to the Netherlands and used our converter <S> so it was running at 110v but only 50HZ. <S> it has been in service this way for 10 years till we finally bought a new one because of high power consumption. <S> The newer ones are much more efficient.
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A sufficiently hefty non-switched UPS (uninterruptible power supply) intended for North American power can do the frequency and voltage conversion, but it won't be just any off-the-shelf UPS.
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Newly installed water heater with faint gas smell Installed a new water heater last night (Rheem Performance Plus Model #XG50T09HE40U0). All went well with installation (including gas line bubble test), but this morning I could detect a faint smell of gas. I had re-used the existing gas line last night (except for a new male threaded adapter), but after smelling it today I replaced the line with a fresh one (and reused the new male threaded adapter from last night). All threads were well sealed with thread tape. However, after replacing the line today, I can still detect the smell. It smells like it's coming from where it is connected in the control unit. Options? <Q> You have used the wrong type of teflon tape - for gas the thicker yellow teflon tape should be used. <S> Another option which many prefer is to use a pipe sealant like RectorSeal. <S> If after replacing the white teflon the smell persists I would check the other end of the gas line. <S> It's possible that when removing the old gas line an existing fitting was loosened and is now leaking slightly. <A> The leak was inside the control box. <S> I talked to Honeywell, and they sent out a replacement control box. <S> It was a straight-forward replacement. <S> The original was either faulty, or I was too eager while tightening the gas line (e.g. broke it myself). <S> Either way, replaced it, used the correct tape, and confirmed all is well with a gas leak detector. <S> All good. <A> That is a common mistake made by many people. <S> You don't use ANY sealant on that connection. <S> The flexible gas line has a compression type flare on it. <S> To make sure it is connected tight, use two crescent wrenches, and hold the nipple at the control box with one wrench, and tighten the gas line with the other wrench. <S> The gas nipple that attaches to the control box on the water heater DOES NEED pipe sealant though.
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Where the flexible gas line connects to the fitting on the water heater, you DON'T use Teflon (or any other sealant).
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What could cause my oven to trip at a certain temperature? I have a (fairly old) Whirlpool fan oven, which turns itself off and trips all of the electrics in the kitchen when the oven reaches a certain temperature (around 150). If we then reset the trip switch and turn the oven down everything works again, and as long as temperature is kept below a certain point the oven stays on. The hob and grill all seem to work fine. Does anyone have any ideas? <Q> Most likely the fan motor is bad and is factory set to come on at 150... <S> pre-baking temperature. <A> My guess would be an underrated circuit, not a short-circuit. <S> The amount of power used (and therefore amperage pulled) by an oven is linearly-proportional to the amount of heat it generates. <S> Thus, if the circuit was underrated, it would trip at nearly the same temperature every time. <S> What is the amperage-rating of the oven, and of the circuit? <S> Also, are there any other devices on the circuit (by code, the oven should be the only one) ? <S> You can check this by turning off the breaker, and making sure all the devices/outlets in the kitchen/nearby rooms still work. <A> It is one of three things: <S> There is a defect in the blower. <S> The building wiring is not adequate. <S> If there has been a change to the range's internals since it worked well—like replacing the blower—it is likely it was not done correctly. <S> For example, the thermal sensor may be bridging the power feed directly to ground instead of to the blower. <S> If the blower used to draw 75 watts but now, for some reason (loss of lubrication), it now draws 1000 watts, and the new total is more than the main can handle, it would completely explain the symptoms. <S> If you have recently added an appliance or other electrical load, maybe now the sum is too much for the service. <S> Alternatively, perhaps the main breaker has weakened and now trips at, for example, 85 amps instead of its rated 100 amps. <A> There is a short circuit created when it reaches the temperature, either wires, of the heating element itself is faulty. <S> It difficult to say without inspecting the wires, elements and everything closely really. <S> Since it trips your circuits, then its a fault and not a safety measure(like overheat switch) so be careful, or better yet, don't use it any more
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The blower's circuit is mis-wired within the range.
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Is there anything I can use to remove gorilla glue from hardwood? I have a very thin layer and some thicker blotchy spots on some steps and was curious how or what I could use to remove it? <Q> I would first try a plastic scraping tool to see if you can physically remove it. <S> This page, under the FAQ tab from the Gorilla Glue site states: <S> Wipe off excess glue immediately with a dry cloth or standard paint thinner. <S> Do not drag glue over material, instead make small swipes to remove wet adhesive. <S> Make sure you avoid skin contact. <S> I'm not positive if a solvent would work, but before you try a solvent, test it on an inconspicuous spot of your floor to ensure it doesn't damage the wood finish. <S> Try denatured alcohol, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, etc. <A> I checked with the Gorilla Glue website , and the only solvent for this glue is acetone. <S> Be careful using acetone as it will strip many clear furniture finishes. <S> The website also said that it may be necessary to allow the acetone to soak into the glue for awhile to soften it. <S> Good luck! <A> I was using Gorilla Super Glue on a leather strap and it accidentally flopped onto the top of a MacBook Pro surface (the smooth metallic surface I think is aluminum).Right away <S> I gently rubbed it with a tissue with nail polish remover on it <S> (acetone).I clean right up. <A> I used Solvo-Plast 11 ( made in Canada) an adhesive remover and WoW, it cleaned my mess up really well. <S> I had put the gorilla glue on the inside of my Moms handles for her walker because they were sliding off, it expanded and came out the opening and dripped all over the place. <S> Worked lickety split and even off my hands, although I didn't really have much on them so <S> can't really say if it would unstick you from something, and I'm not going to test my theory.
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Cured glue can be removed with a chisel, scraper or sandpaper.
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Does big current draw make GFCI outlets go bad? About 2 years ago during a kitchen update, I replaced a GFCI outlet with a new one, 20-amp (both pass through and the GFCI outlet itself). Branching downstream from it are two more outlets, one on the other side of the sink, and one right behind it on the outside of the house. It's an up-to-date "lock" GFCI, is wired correctly and has always tested and functioned correctly. Last week having a new roof put on, the roofers plugged a pretty heavy-duty looking air compressor into the outside outlet. After about an hour, the GFCI tripped. Now, plugging just about anything into the outside outlet is causing it to trip after a few minutes' use, for example yesterday, my shop vac. I have used the shop vac in that outlet many times before with no problem. So, my question is, did the current draw by the air compressor damage the GFCI (it still tests fine). If so, I guess I better replace it. <Q> I have noticed that GFCIs seem to be worn out by heavy, prolonged loads. <S> I can't find any authoritative sources for this effect. <S> Probably the GFCI manufacturers know all about it. <S> The bridge circuit which detects the flow imbalance depends on some precision electronics which are heat sensitive. <S> The heavy current itself does not affect them, but the side effect of that current heating up the components will lead to premature failure. <A> My experience is that when GFI receptacles trip due to overloads rather than a ground fault, their lifespan is diminished greatly. <S> I have replaced dozens of them over the last few years. <S> Easier to replace them then deal with a lot of nuisance tripping. <A> OK, here are the results of my test. <S> I ran the shop vac for about 15 minutes directly off the GFCI, no problem. <S> Then I went outside and plugged it into the load outlet -- dead. <S> I think it tripped the second I plugged the vac in, even though I didn't hear the vac start at all. <S> The reason I think this is because using an LED nightlight as a tester, I see the LED illuminate for like a microsecond when I plug it into the load outlet. <S> And there's more -- even after the load outlets go dead, the GFCI outlet itself still has power, only the two load outlets are dead. <S> My conclusion is, it has to be replaced.
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To be honest, I think they are sensitive to overloads and simply are damaged.
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Apartment on the top floor gets very hot - cheap, eco friendly ways to keep the place cool? I have an apartment on the top floor of an apartment building (the community roof is right over us). In summer, the place gets very hot! I can't start a community garden upstairs and am dying with the air conditioning bills. Is there some quick cheap way in which I can cool my place? <Q> The master bedroom in our last house was below a flat roof, and I found the following measures made for more comfortable sleeping: 1) Since the cold air from air conditioners tends to sink, use fans to blow it back up to the ceiling. <S> From there it will descend and you will feel it more than if it were just all pooling on the floor. <S> 2) <S> If you can open windows and the air is cool outside, use fans at the base of the window to blow air upwards. <S> Same principle as before. <S> 3) <S> Humidity is as much your enemy as the heat. <S> Although A/C is supposed to dehumidify, I've found that running a supplementary dehumidifier can help. <S> You'd be surprised how much water you can draw out of the air. <S> No point doing this while the windows are open, though. <A> Roofs are one of the main sources of heat gain (in summer) and loss (in winter). <S> That is why this is the most important area to insulate. <S> Since it probably is not possible for you to add to whatever insulation is above your ceiling, you might try adding some below it. <S> If you have enough height, you could create false ceilings below the existing ones. <S> This would require either a wooden or steel structure to support new drywall. <S> An alternative is a suspended ceiling using a track system in which large tiles are inserted. <S> Between the new ceiling and the old, you can install insulation. <S> Some of the new foam sheets provide very high insulation values, nearly twice as much as fiberglass batts of the same thickness. <S> Also consider sun-blocking shades if your windows get direct sunlight. <A> If possible, consider adding a skylight. <S> Mount a ceiling fan below it. <S> On hot days, open the skylight and turn the fan on so that the fan is pushing air up and out the skylight. <A> Add window tint. <S> They are designed to allow visible light in but cut out 99% of UV light and some of the heat coming into the home. <S> There are different types, different shades and some have insulating properties. <S> As I recall, we had this huge heat and glare problem in an office I once worked in in Malaysia (tropical). <S> The air conditioning wasn't terribly good and we had a lot of heat producing equipment. <S> Once the film was on the temperature was much improved. <S> Also, ceiling and wall insulation makes a huge difference. <S> We recently got wall insulation added. <S> A product called air foam. <S> They installed it from the outside and you can hardly tell where they blew it in. <S> It's made an enormous difference.
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Adding insulation to your ceiling is probably the ultimate answer, but it may be expensive and disruptive. Placing a fan near the A/C source may also help draw a greater flow of cooled air.
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Adding a two-way circuit to a three-way circuit I have two overhead lights controlled by two separate circuits of two three-way switches. One is wired like this: The other is wired like this: There are two three-way switches for the overhead light in a three gang box. Is there a way to add a separately controlled single pole switched light using the feed from the three-way switches just before the overhead light in the first diagram. <Q> If both switches are of the type 2 configuration in your diagrams, then no. <S> You need unswitched power from somewhere to either the new light or new switch. <S> For example, if either of the switches in the 3 gang box were of the type 1 configuration, then you have unswitched power and can add another switch. <A> A feed is a hot and its neutral uninterrupted by any device from the source (the panel). <S> You need access to the feed to tap into that circuit. <S> In both of your diagrams the feed is in the box with switch #1. <S> In your 1st diagram switch #2 has <S> the neutral but not its un-switched hot in the 2nd diagram <S> switch <S> #2 doesn't have either an un-switched hot or its neutral . <A> Here is an utterly stupid solution to the problem (please don't). <S> If you got a double pole switch (not a three-way - not a four-way ) <S> and you were willing to install two fixtures to be controlled by this switch, you could run two conductors (one to each light) and one of the two lights will be on when the switch is on, and neither will be on when the switch is off. <S> This is for academic purposes only. <S> I do not recommend doing this unless you really want to confuse someone.
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What you call circuit power supply cable , electricians call the feed . To do what you want you would need to run another conductor from where there is unswitched power available.
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How to solve a miswiring of neutral and ground An Outlet in the dining room which had a microwave plugged into it stopped working. I found 120+ volts from hot to ground and 96+ from hot to neutral. Also at one point my "three light tester" showed hot-ground reversed at one point, but also good at another point. After researching on-line I believed the problem to be an open neutral, possibly in a back stabbed outlet or loose neutral wire nut connection. I started by checking all connections on that particular circuit once I isolated it in the breaker box. I replaced both outlets,connecting to the screws not the backstabs. I also rewired light switches by disconnecting the backstabs and re-attaching to the screws although this step, in hindsight, was probably unnecessary. Eventually I found a two wire (hot and neutral only) ceiling light fixture in an adjacent laundry room (same breaker in panel box). The plastic fixture box has four Neutral wires plus the neutral light fixture and a ground wire all in a single wire nut. When I removed the ground from the connection of five neutrals (four rolex and one light) the light stopped working and I now have 120V from hot to ground but only 16V hot to neutral at the outlet. I really don't think I want to rewire the ground back into the neutrals and I am thinking I should continue by checking the neutral set screws on the neutral bar in the panel, but I'm a little stumped about the ground that I disconnected and re-attached to the green nut on the light mounting bracket that spans the plastic ceiling box. <Q> The ground conductors were probably functioning as your neutral return (just not very well) until you disconnected it at the light. <S> So not only do you have an open (or high resistance) neutral wire, but you also have too much resistance in a ground wire. <S> I would probably contact someone who has access to test equipment that can diagnose the actual in-wall wiring. <S> (like maybe an infrared thermometer to detect a hot spot, or a voltage detector to trace wires in the walls, or at least an ohmmeter) <A> Rarely do wires fail in the middle somewhere. <S> (Well, except for aluminum wire.) <S> Almost certainly the neutral conductor problem is at a junction. <S> Keep the ground disconnected from the neutral in all places. <S> Shut off the circuit and use a DMM or other ohmmeter along with an adequately long run of wire (any gauge, even telephone wire) to directly measure the resistance of the neutral wire from point to point. <S> In each measurement, deduct the resistance of the test wire. <S> It should quickly be apparent which run of wire has a problem. <S> Probably, you'll find during measurement that there is a poor connection: once that is cleaned up, everything will work well. <A> Wow! <S> It looks like someone that predates you in that house was having the same problem <S> and you discovered their quick fix. <S> If you don't already, and while you're getting that circuit repaired, you might also want to consider getting a new 20amp circuit into your kitchen for a receptacle or two, then maybe you can put the microwave in there. <A> The ground wire is being used as a neutral and is tied in to neutral conductors somewhere. <S> When so-called "handymen" come in to supply power for a device or light, they'll take it from the nearest source. <S> This can be helpful when in a bind, however, whoever did it did not wrap white phase tape around the green wire to identify it as a neutral wire. <S> Your best bet is to identify the breaker which controls that circuit, turn it off, then open up everything on that circuit to identify where the green wire is tied into the neutral.
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If you've checked all the boxes and terminals for loose connections, you may have a damaged wire in the structure somewhere. The high resistance will cause heat (and risk of fire) if you continue to use the circuit. Also it sounds like you don't have a small-appliance receptacle circuit in your dining room and maybe not in your kitchen either.
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What features do I need in a stud finder for use on plaster walls? I have an old house built in the early 1930s. The conventional stud finders are useless on plaster. The more sophisticated ones are more expensive in the $50 range. What features would a stud finder need to have to work well in my situation? <Q> This stud finder with magnet and level is what I keep on me at all times. <S> It is the only stud finder that I have and works excellently. <S> It is strong enough to pick up nails used for crosses most of the time too. <S> I have no affiliation with the product - I am just a customer that has bought 6-7. <S> The magnet is super strong and the pointer + level help. <S> The only downside is the plastic tip breaks on every one if I drop it, but it still does the trick. <S> A bonus is that it finds screws, nails, tools, whatever... in hard to see/reach places. <S> I don't know how many times I was up in an attic and dropped something and pulled out the stud finder. <A> If the house construction is lath and plaster (with no metal mesh), you may be able to use a stud finder with metal scan capabilities or a dedicated metal finder. <S> The reason why these work, over basic stud finders is because metal finders work by finding the nail heads that attach the wood lath to the studs. <A> It works like magic on plaster and costs less than $5! <S> Get a small, strong magnet <S> Be careful! <S> Especially with neodymium magnets and children/pets and around other metal/magnets/credit cards! <S> Tie the magnet (or stack of magnets) to a thin string, roughly 1.5-2 feet long. <S> Slowly drag the magnet sideways across the wall, so that it's hanging freely by the string. <S> Eventually, it will stick to a hidden nail behind the plaster. <S> These are the nails that hold the lath to the studs. <S> Once you find a nail, go up/down about 1.5-2", and you should find another nail. <S> If you find a whole vertical line of them, then you found a stud! <S> There can be other metal objects hidden in the wall (electrical wire sheathing/boxes, metal mesh/repair screens, corner reinforcements, etc.) <S> so you want to make sure you find a full line of discrete/separate nails. <S> It will not detect copper wires or pipes so be careful drilling! <S> I use little bits of blue painter's tape to mark the nails, then I go about 16" or standard stud spacing to the side, to find the next stud, and mark the nails in that one too. <S> Then I use a level to match 2 nails horizontally, to identify the horizontal lath, and I drive screws into the lath to hang small pictures, etc. <S> I kept my magnets in the plastic package they came in, so I can just tie the string to the hole in the package. <S> It also keeps it from scratching the paint or twisting. <S> I do have to take the magnets out of the package to center on faint nails now and then. <S> Source (answer #3): https://thecraftsmanblog.com/how-to-find-studs-in-a-plaster-wall/
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If metal mesh was also used to help secure the plaster to the lath in some instances, even metal finders may not help you find the stud. A strong magnet on a string!
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How can I protect the soleplate when framing basement walls? I plan on finishing my basement and I have a specific question about framing the walls and protecting the soleplate. I plan on framing and setting up the walls BEFORE laying the subfloor, but that means I need to protect the soleplate from moisture. I plan on sealing the entire basement (thankfully it's fairly new and there are no cracks in the floor), but when I anchor the soleplate to the floor, it will obviously break this seal and potentially allow moisture to seep up around the fastener. Should I do any of the following? Put caulk/glue under the soleplate where I know I'll be anchoring it Use washers or some other inorganic spacer to elevate the soleplate off of the concrete Use a pressure treated soleplate I would rather not lay dricore first and then frame on top of it as that makes the dricore much harder to remove if there is ever a flooding issue. I'd also prefer the walls to be more stable than if they were anchored to dricore subflooring. <Q> Any framing that directly contacts concrete should be pressure treated. <S> So option 3. <S> Sealing is an optimistic concept at best, .vs. <S> ensuring that there is proper drainage outside the basement, but you could certainly put construction adhesive on the bottom of the soleplate, it won't hurt. <A> You can't really stop leaks in concrete from sealing from the inside. <S> Products like DryCor and epoxy seals are temporary solutions to water leakage problems, at best. <S> So if you have seepage issues, just do not finish the basement, as you will not want to rely on sealant as your only line of defense. <S> If it's just natural moisture that you are concerned about, then I don't think you need to over-think the penetration of a few nails into the concrete. <S> But you do not want untreated wood in contact with the concrete, so you're right about that. <S> So that's only half-solution. <S> Two options off the top of my head: Rubber window flashing on the floor, wood floor plate nailed on top (my preference) 1/4" EPX foam, metal floor plate nailed on top. <S> I prefer using metal framing for basements for a number of reasons that I outline here. <A> You want water to escape, not sit. <S> Ideally, you want a series of things: <S> Have a place for moisture in the basement to go. <S> Periodically, create breaks in the sole plate a few inches wide so in a worst case <S> scenario the water can escape. <S> You will put a continuous non-treated bottom plate on top of the treated sole plate upon which you will build your wall. <S> Bring the drywall or wall sheeting material down to the untreated bottom plate, but not over the sole plate. <S> After the wall is framed and sheeted, put baseboard over the gap between the sheeting and the floor. <S> A few spacers there are okay. <S> But don't seal it.
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Use a pressure treated sole plate on these interior walls. Using pressure treated lumber will prevent rot, but not prevent it from wicking up moisture. What you really want to do is create a break between the concrete and the wood. A sump hole with an optional sump pump at the lowest part of the basement is ideal.
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How do I remove a brass pipe that has been jammed into a larger iron pipe? I was replacing the sink this afternoon when I noticed that the p-trap would not reach the drain pipe. No biggie, right? I'll just buy some extensions from the local big box and be on my way. I attempt to take off the drain pipe so I can fit an extension on and what I can see appears to be someone who took a 1.25" pipe, shoved it into the 1.5" hole (with the threads "holding it in") and then tightening everything up. Now, I'm trying to unscrew this mess (literally) and I can't get the pipe out of the 1.5" drain. I'm wondering if I should try to heat up the system with an acetylene torch to try to make everything a bit more pliable or if I've got no other choice than to get a plumber to come and rerun the drain in the back of the wall. The input of this community would be most appreciated. Here are some photos: <Q> I'd slip a cheater bar into the drain and see if you can pop it loose by turning it clockwise (so you don't unscrew the tail-piece). <S> If you can get it to turn without twisting it you should be able to get it to pull out. <S> If you can't and it starts to twist the pipe without breaking it loose, cut it off with a hacksaw close to the tail-piece leaving enough of outside to grab with a pair of vise-grips. <S> Then take a hacksaw blade and carefully cut through the pipe from the inside. <A> Do not use an acetylene torch! <S> That will melt the pipe and make holes, cracks, etc. <S> in it. <S> A 18+ inch pipe wrench applied to the insert will probably unscrew it so it will just slide out. <S> Otherwise, it will turn the outer pipe loose from whatever it is connected to. <S> If the outer pipe was built well, it is fastened to structural framing which will easily hold it in place. <S> Just unscrew the whole assembly and either replace the 1.5 inch pipe or separate the two and replace the 1.5 inch. <S> If that is a standard wall, there is an elbow just a few inches inside the wall, so it will be quite easy to re-install. <A> Dissimilar metals, the inside of the iron pipe will have rusted so tight to the brass pipe that you will need a half-round cape chisel and patience to get it out. <S> This is a normal installation, the 1 1/4" pipe is supposed to slip in rather loosely into the larger pipe with a threaded ring and rubber gasket to make it water tight. <S> Years of corrosion have won out. <S> Been there on this one; if the recommendations already made by wallyk and Comintern don't work, chiseling it out is all that's left. <S> It would help to know what's inside the wall as in, does the iron pipe thread into an iron Tee with the rest of the system being iron till it gets to the larger diameter pipe? <S> Most of the Swede bar methods mentioned will need to take that into consideration otherwise dealing with the aftermath can be kind of annoying. <S> BTW, I have seen 1/2 iron pipe rust internally till the water channel was less than the diameter of a pencil, quite something to see. <A> @Martin James Agreed. <S> I've freed jammed press brakes with a whole lot of ordinary ice, and the dissimilarity in metals there is pretty minor. <S> But check with your local welding gas distributor--they may have dry ice. <S> Just remember that it can burn you, too. <S> And if you haven't worked with it before, you might be surprised how fast it can disappear, so be sure to be ready to use it as soon as you get it home. <S> Also, please heed Fiasco Labs' advice about the breaker bar. <A> You could try shrinking the inner pipe with cooler spray. <S> That will temporarily provide a bit of clearance and crack scale/rust. <S> If you can warm up the assembly first, even better <S> but, if you use a gas-axe for that, just use a bit of gas AND NO OXYGEN. <S> An ordinary butane blowlamp would be safer :) <A> I know exactly what you need here: <A> I would have used a hub puller.
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You should then be able to use a vise-grip or pliers roll it in to a smaller diameter and pull out the last bit. As the volumetric thermal expansion coefficient of brass is nearly twice that of steel at room temperature, but the amount of heat needed for sufficient effect might damage the existing installation (or you), chilling the pipes would probably be the better option. I suggest turning with great force.
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How do I wire a switched outlet with the switch downstream? Can I simply use the same switch loop technique as with a light? in combination with this: replacing the light with the final outlet? <Q> Only if you either have only one outlet or have 3 conductors all the way between the feed and the switch. <S> Notice in your top diagram that there isn't a neutral going to the switch <S> - it is being used as a switched hot. <S> If you have more than one outlet, you need to find a way to get a neutral beyond the first one. <S> See below - ground and boxes omitted for clarity (feed is from the left): <A> Yes, you can wire it like this... <S> Notice that the white wire between the boxes has been repurposed, and is marked at both terminals to indicate this. <S> If you wanted a half-switched receptacle, you could do this... <S> As long as you remove the tab between the hot terminals, there should be no problems. <S> Just remember to always interrupt the ungrounded (hot) conductor with the switch, not the grounded (neutral) conductor. <S> NOTE: <S> If you're following current codes, and this is a new install. <A> I'd tend to go with @Tester101's note, rather than what's electrically possible but does not meet current codes (whether for switching lights or outlets.) <S> While you will find the switch loop without neutral technique in old wiring, so it's good to be aware of <S> , it's no longer acceptable (because codes are adapting to make way for smarter switches that may need a neutral conductor at the switch) <S> so you should not install one that way, now. <S> Take @Comintern's diagram, delete the white wire with black tape, extend the red wire all the way to the switch, and extend the white wire on the bottom to the switch. <S> Then you are good by current codes.
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If there is only one outlet between the feed and the switch, you just wire it like your top diagram with the outlet as the "light". A grounded (neutral) conductor is now required at each switch location, so this would no longer be possible without an additional conductor.
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How can I bend skirting for a bay window? We have a bay window in our living room with a fast approaching deadline for the carpet being fitted. We need to bend the skirting as it won't be as pleasing to the eye if we do it in chunks and our bay is curved. Can anyone please advise on how to do this as our joiner can't come out to help any time soon. <Q> So, more of a bow window than a bay window, per the usual terminology where the smooth curve is a bow. <S> The typical approach is to kerf the back of the piece you need to bend. <S> Depending on the profile, this can be simple or more difficult - the basic concept is to make a cut every 1/2 inch or centimeter (approximately - don't get fussy about measuring them!) <S> that leaves only 1/8-1/4" of wood on the face intact, at which point the board should bend into place easily. <A> Have a look at Resin-based flexible molding. <S> Something like http://www.flextrim.com/index.php <S> Standard profiles are available, so you have a good chance of matching one of their products to your existing skirting. <A> I have used PVC that is available in the standard 1X sizes in the big box stores. <S> Top caps are available in PVC too, but those are tricky to set in place. <S> The 1X PVC can be machined to a profile with the same tools for wood if you need to match something.
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If there is a molded profile on the face of the board, this becomes trickier, since you need to be careful not to cut through the board where the molded profile is deep.
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Hooking up a 50A hot tub breaker to a 60A subpanel I am considering adding a hot tub to my backyard. Most of the ones I've seen require a 240v 50A breaker, presumably with #6 4-wire. It would be most convenient to run the line for this from my subpanel in my detached garage. I had an electrician put in the subpanel just a year ago (so it is up to modern standards; previously it was knob-and-tube! house built in 1927) and he set it up as a 60A subpanel. This consists of a 60A breaker at the main panel in the house, run underground to the subpanel in the garage, which has room for eight GE Q-line miniature breakers. Due to the number of available spaces, I'm guessing the breaker panel could handle more than 60A, but it's just limited by the breaker at the main panel and by the amp rating of the wire going between the panels. There isn't a lot of load in the garage usually, just a couple lights and outlets. I think we could have gotten away with using two 20A circuits, but he wired up two 20A circuits and two 15A circuits, using 4 of the breaker spaces. This adds up to 75A, but from what I understand this is okay since once it hits 60A it would trip the breaker at the main panel and shut off the entire garage. Occasionally we will run a 12A electric lawn mower or other similar electric lawn tools from the outlets. The lights are motion lights on the outside, and switched fluorescent shop lamps on the inside. Okay, now for the the question: Would it be okay and up to code to run a 50A 2-pole breaker in two of the remaining 4 slots in the panel and hook the hot tub up to it? I'm assuming that the hot tub isn't going to be drawing close to 50A under normal conditions otherwise it'd regularly trip the breaker. But even if someone is sitting in it with the jets on and say it draws 40A, it seems like I could still run the lawn mower at 12A and have a couple lights on and not trip the 60A breaker at the house. (Related: does anyone know how many amps a typical hot tub would draw at peak and during regular operation?) I assume this line of thinking is why the electrician was able to put 75A worth of breakers on that 60A panel. But, if any of this screams "could cause a fire" or "not up to code", please let me know! Thanks in advance! <Q> @Steven is essentially right. <S> What has been explained many times on this site is that there is NOTHING dangerous about what you propose. <S> The 50A breaker will be protecting the wiring to the tub (and internals of the tub). <S> You can do this if you want and you will be perfectly fine. <S> BUT, if the tub really does pull 50A and you have it on at the same time as other devices in the garage which are taking more than 10A then the 60A breaker will trip. <S> Bottom line: <S> You can have as many breakers as you want totaling more than their main/subpanel breaker. <S> It is safe. <S> It just will trip if you actually consume more than that at any one time. <A> Regardless of what all the individual breakers add up to, the maximum you can draw through that subpanel is 60amps. <S> Realistically you want to be a bit lower then that to allow for some spikes. <S> To determine if you can support the tub, you need to take a measurement of the current (amps) on the circuit with some or all of the existing devices in use (i.e. normal use). <S> Ideally you would use a clamp meter around the hot wires in order to measure this, but alternatively you could add up the loads on the circuit. <S> If you subtract this value from 60, and you have enough capacity for the tub, then it should be OK to run from that sub-panel. <A> I don't think I've ever seen something that when the manufacture provides you with the circuit size to connect it to, either literally or implied by the factory installed plug type, it isn't at least 125% of the most it will draw. <S> My guess is that your hot tub will draw between 33 and 40 amps at 240 volts with everything on heater, pump and whatever else it has. <A> The hot tub, being 95% a resistive load, is going to draw exactly what it says on the tin . <S> It may draw it for more than 3 hours, so most likely, if they are calling out a 50A breaker, they are drawing 39.9A. <S> Why? <S> Because continuous loads must be derated by 125%, and 125% of 39.9A is 49.9A, which is good for a 50A breaker. <S> The fundamental issue is that the hot tub absolutely needs to be protected by a GFCI breaker. <S> (unless you can find a 50A rated GFCI deadfront somewhere, good luck with that). <S> And you're working in a Q-line panel, which has a very unique approach to "double-stuff" breakers. <S> The standard space is 1" wide, but GE allows individual 1/2" wide single breakers, which take half a space in the panel. <S> Now you said it has room for 8 miniature breakers, i.e. eight 1/2" breakers. <S> In other words it's a 4-space panel . <S> GFCI's don't come in double-stuff. <S> You need a full 2" wide 2-space breaker. <S> It will take 2 of your 4 spaces, leaving only 2 spaces for all your other breakers. <S> Your panel is full . <S> Just like that. <S> We often warn about scrimping on panel spaces: extra spaces are dirt cheap, regrets are expensive. <S> What's more, all your garage receptacles are also supposed to be GFCI. <S> So now you need 6 spaces, in your 4-space panel. <S> Of course there's a way you can do an end-run around all this. <S> The downside is that if anything out of that subpanel has a ground fault, it'll trip all the loads, so finding the ground fault will involve more hunting. <S> This "GFCI in the main panel" trick <S> might also allow another trick if the hot tub's instructions allow it to be on a 60A breaker. <S> In that case you wouldn't need a breaker in the subpanel at all, because the breaker in the main panel would provide that protection @60A. <S> You would either use a thru-lug kit for the subpanel, or some 3-wire lug splices.
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The 60A breaker is protecting the wiring to the subpanel (and its internals). You can put the GFCI breaker in the main panel, and protect every circuit in the subpanel just like that. That would also allow you to use one of GE's "double-stuff" 2-pole 50A breakers, that is only 1" tall, leaving you 2 spare half-spaces in the panel. Often times if the device, appliance, machine or whatever it is, only slightly exceeds 80% of the next smaller circuit size, in this case 40 amps, the manufacture will rate it for the next higher. You have to figure out whether that situation will ever occur.
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