source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
Is it possible to tell if the current floor is solid or engineered hardwood? I am looking to replace the existing floor because I was told by the inspector that it is engineered and can't be sanded. But while I had the contractor came, he said it is solid which we can sand instead of replacing. How do I tell if it is solid hardwood or something else? <Q> You need to find an area where you can inspect the side of the boards. <S> If there are floor registers, remove one and inspect. <S> If you don't have those, look for areas around doors other areas where you might be able to easily remove a trim to inspect. <S> Worst case, you will need to remove a floor molding to inspect. <S> Also height will give you a clue. <S> 1/2 to 5/8 is the typical heights of engineered. <S> 5/8 to 7/8 is the typical height for solid. <S> And some engineered floors can be sanded once or twice depending on the thickness of the finish wood. <A> Both may be correct: "Engineered" floors often have a fairly thin, yet substantial, amount of hardwood laminated over a base of cheaper wood. <S> This section can be as much as 3/8" thick, and can be sanded (carefully!) <S> several times before hitting the laminated section. <S> Apart from the methods suggested previously, you can wait for winter, when solid floorboards will shrink substantially, allowing you to get a knife through and pry them apart. <S> "Engineered" floorboards don't shrink quite as much, and are typically 'lighter' colored on the tongue and groove section. <S> Finally, you might also be able to drill through the subfloor from underneath to look at the bottom of the boards, or, if you have a cutout for a floor-mounted electrical outlet, that can be used as well. <S> As an FYI: a floor can often be refinished without sanding; the technical term is 'screening'. <A> I would take out a baseboard and see if you can pull a board up a little or use a small mirror to see the side of a board. <S> They should be spaced away from the wall enough to see. <S> Engineered hardwood usually has 1/8" or less of said wood with backing. <S> You cannot in almost all cases sand engineered hardwood. <S> I have never ran across engineered that can be sanded so I would assume no. <S> If you sand any part to the backing it with look awful. <S> Most engineered floors or at least the higher quality ones have a "perfect" finish and protective layering on them - not poly. <S> Also if it is a wider plank probably engineered. <S> I could probably tell if you had a picture. <S> Now laminate and engineered can be hard to decipher but engineered and hardwood are usually easy to tell until you get into the $10 sq/ft variety. <A> Running a damp cloth along the cut-end of the board will clarify the separation of composite material and the veneer to which it's attached. <S> The moisture will magnify where the composite material ends and the veneer begins.
|
Best way to tell whether it's engineered hardwood is to pull up the metalfloor registers and inspect the rough cross section (the cut end) of the board to spot the veneer construction.
|
What do the color designations of wire mean? I am wiring a hot tub I recently purchased and is a 220V 4 wire connection. The wire is AWG 6. The instruction book shows black and red hot wires for this tub, but the wiring on this tub has black and blue hot wires. The reading I have done always indicates black and red hot wires. I'm guessing some wire companies make blue hot wires. Is there any significance to this not being red that I may not be aware of? <Q> Ungrounded "hot" conductors can be identified by any means that is not used to identify grounded "neutral", or grounding conductors. <S> So basically if it's not white, gray, any color other than green with three continuous white or gray stripes, green, green with yellow stripes, bare, or any of the other identification methods below, it can be an ungrounded "hot" conductor. <S> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article <S> 200 Use and Identification of Grounded Conductors <S> 200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors. <S> (A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller. <S> An insulated grounded conductor of 6 AWG or smaller shall be identified by one of the following means: (1) <S> A continuous white outer finish. <S> (2) <S> A continuous gray outer finish. <S> (3) <S> Three continuous white or gray stripes along the conductor's entire length on other than green insulation. <S> (4) Wires that have their outer covering finished to show a white or gray color but have colored tracer threads in the braid identifying the source of manufacture <S> shall be considered as meeting the provisions of this section. <S> (5) <S> The grounded conductor of a mineral-insulated, metal-sheathed cable shall be identified at the time of installation by distinctive marking at its terminations. <S> (6) <S> A single-conductor, sunlight-resistant, outdoor-rated cable used as a grounded conductor in photovoltaic power systems as permitted by 690.31 shall be identified at the time of installation by distinctive white marking at all terminations. <S> (7) Fixture wire shall comply with the requirements for grounded conductor identification as specified in 402.8. <S> (8) <S> For aerial cable, the identification shall be as above, or by means of a ridge located on the exterior of the cable so as to identify it. <S> Article 250 Grounding and Bonding 250.119 Identification of Equipment Grounding Conductors. <S> Unless required elsewhere in this Code, equipment grounding conductors shall be permitted to be bare, covered, or insulated. <S> Individually covered or insulated equipment grounding conductors shall have a continuous outer finish that is either green or green with one or more yellow stripes except as permitted in this section. <S> Conductors with insulation or individual covering that is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or otherwise identified as permitted by this section shall not be used for ungrounded or grounded circuit conductors. <A> Here is a breakdown of common U.S. household electrical wire color coding: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/220-wiring-color-code-interpretation <S> It is not always common to see blue, yellow, and other colors outside of your common black, red, white, green, and bare copper; however, there is nothing wrong. <S> The blue wire you see is likely the second hot wire and will be connected to the red from the house. <S> If you are unsure, and seeing as I don't have the manual and/or pictures, I suggest calling the manufacturer and asking. <S> I am also assuming the additional 2 wires on the hot tub are a white neutral and a green or bare ground. <A> The NEC only mentions a few colors. <S> White and Grey may only be used as a grounded conductor (neutral wire) and green or green with a yellow stripe may only be used as a grounding conductor. <S> Typically in a house application its industry standard to use Black and Red for the two line conductors but in a commercial application, specifically in 3 phase there would be three hots... <S> black, red, blue.
|
Blue is an acceptable color for the insulation on an ungrounded "hot" conductor. The manufacturers operate under different sets of codes than field installers so they pretty much just pick a color.
|
how many ring or radial socket makes a circuit like how many sockets can one have on a either ring or radial circuit planned to be protected by 20A breaker <Q> The number of sockets you can have connected to a circuit isn't limited by the circuit breaker's amperage. <S> No matter how many sockets you connect, you're still limited by the 20A limit on the circuit breaker. <S> A socket with nothing connected to it does not draw any current. <S> Think about what devices you want to connect to the circuit. <S> Find out how many amps each one draws and total that up. <S> A 20A circuit can supply 20A intermittently or about 16A continuously (load for more than 3 hours at a time). <S> Use the total amperage you need to supply to determine the number of circuits you need. <S> If you wish to connect multiple devices, but not use them simultaneously, you may do so as long as they don't exceed 20A <S> or they'll trip the breaker. <A> "Ring circuit" suggest UK or a country using similar practices and regulations. <S> As far as I know, BS7671 allows for (or simply suggests) up to 100 m length of T&E cable covering a floor area of up to 100 m². <S> Typical UK homes have one ring per floor and a separate ring for the kitchen/utility rooms. <S> A 20A breaker is sized to protect the cable (so depends on cable cross-sectional area, not on number of sockets, and not simply on how much current you would like to draw) <S> The breaker limits the total current draw through appliances connected to sockets. <S> So you could in theory have 150 sockets with 100 mA appliances running. <S> Or just one kettle. <S> In the UK, adding sockets at new locations to an existing circuit is not notifiable but adding a new circuit (ring or radial) would be notifiable under Part P - so you'd probably pay an electrician to do the work and certify it. <A> Just to add to what rj said...you can only utilize 80% of a breakers rating. <S> So if you have specific uses don't exceed the 16A or add another circuit to that. <S> But as rj said...you are not limited by the number of receptacles unless the load is known. <S> In my exp. <S> many people put on about 8-10 per circuit. <S> I personally split circuits by rooms, larger rooms splitting into more than one circuit.
|
There is no limit to the number of sockets per ring.
|
How to repaint a metal door and keep the paint from scratching off? I need to paint an exterior door that not only is metal, but has a small amount of rust on the outer edges. The door is used quite often and takes a lot of wear and tear. The past paint jobs have not held up very long and I have been given the task to prevent this from happening again. I primed, painted and put a laquor finish on the door, thinking this would do the job. Nope, didn't work! Any suggestions? <Q> Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal , condensed from KILZ.com , other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal. <S> The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. <S> The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has weathered) that must be removed with a stiff brush or abrasive pad, prior to coating. <S> It’s necessary to remove the oily film that can prevent coating adhesion with a water-based cleaner/degreaser. <S> Prime the surface with a water-based primer. <S> Since oil-based primers can interact with the zinc in galvanized metal , causing premature peeling, always use a water-based primer when painting galvanized metal. <S> KILZ® <S> 2 Primer is an excellent choice when priming and painting exterior galvanized metal. <S> It will grip to the metal surface and provide a better surface for the paint to adhere. <S> todayshomeowner.com/how-to-paint-a-galvanized-metal-door <A> Wirebrush the rust to remove it. <S> Apply a primer designed to adhere to bare metal. <S> (I'm fond of those which react chemically with rust to help finish the job of preparing the surface, but those are only available in dark colors as far as I know.) <S> Then apply a paint compatible with that primer -- not all paints layer happily on top of each other; generally you want the topcoat to use the same solvent the undercoat did for best adhesion. <S> Theoretically, painting a metal door is like painting a metal car... <S> I wonder what an auto body shop would charge if you asked them to paint it. <A> Need to spray a good distance away and layer it on lightly <S> but if you take your time it can look almost perfect. <S> Bonus points for following it up with a clear coat a few days later. <A> Since you can rarely get rid of all rust without sanding completely through the metal, due to pitting, you should remove as much as possible, and the apply a rust fixer.
|
I paint all metal doors with automotive primer (helps with rust and binds harder) and automotive spray paint.
|
How to build canted riser for queen mattress? My wife has severe allergies and has found that sleeping on an incline helps matters. We have a queen mattress on an Ikea MALM bedframe , and I'm trying to think of a simple way to test this out easily and cheaply. I'm thinking of cutting pieces of wood to fit and stacking them flush against the headboard, each layer a little shorter length-wise, to create a basic ramp. I'm told that a 15-degree tilt would be enough. A queen mattress is 79.5 x 76". My questions are: Does this seem reasonable, e.g., any gotchas here? Or is there a simpler (and cheaper) way? If the answer to the above is 'yes', what type of wood should I go for? Regular lumber? Plywood? And how thick? Based on a given thickness, how many pieces would I need, and how long should each be, to make the 15-degree tilt? <Q> "My wife has found that sleeping on an incline helps. <S> I'm trying to test this." <S> To confirm her findings, or that you can sleep on it? <S> --Two <S> cinder-blocks and one brick makes for 20 inches to test it. <S> Confirm this and then proceed. <S> Personally, I'd build it like a deck: <S> The structure using 2x6's or larger, joist hangers, blocking, and on 16" centers. <S> With 3/4" cabinet grade plywood as the 'deck' and sides, finished with poly. <S> Keep in mind that unless you own a table saw or (even) a very nice circular saw, the angled 'faces' will be hard to cleanly cut. <S> Try to keep the factory edge at the top, where it will show the most. <S> Ripping the angles on the joists isn't going to be fun without one, either. <S> Kind of like this (not exactly built the way I mentioned), but <S> the pitch makes it angled, it doesn't 'account' for it, like in the picture : <A> With some nails and some 2x4 you can just create a ladder and prop it up on the far side. <S> I suggest against a solid plywood sheet braced up because that prevents the mattress from breathing. <A> In college, I made a loft for my twin XL mattress with a 2"x6" runner on one side and a 1/2"x6" plywood runner on the other. <S> On the inside of each runner was a 2"x4" wide side flat against the runner, and flush with the bottom edge. <S> 2"x4"s were then laid crosswise between the runners, on top of the supports. <S> They were space with 1" gaps the whole length of the mattress. <S> This worked very well and did not require a box spring. <S> The frame was very sturdy. <S> This type of set up could be expanded to a 2"x6" frame all the way around. <S> One end could have legs attached to provide the proper angle.
|
The 2"x4" cross members would work, but may need a brace in the center running the length of the frame. If you would like this frame to look nice, it could be made from a nice hardwood and stained and finished.
|
How can I prevent my dining table from tilting? I am building a dining table similar to this one - The problem, if you apply some pressure, the opposite ends lift up. In fact, that box underneath itself lifts up. One way is to add a big plate underneath the box. That will help. But with that the aesthetics completely changes. Any alternate ideas? <Q> If the base is hollow and open at the bottom, I would try making it slide around something heavy. <S> Make a concrete block or something that will fit fairly tightly inside the base. <S> Make it a bit shorter than the base to ensure the table goes all the way to the floor. <S> Then when you setup the table you sit the block on the floor, lift up the table and slide it down on the block. <S> If it fits nice and snuggly, pushing on the table will try to tip the block as well. <S> To me this sounds better than filling the base because eventually, someone is going to have to move that table. <S> It is going to be much easier to carry up a flight of stairs if you have 2 pieces - a large but relatively light table, and a heavy but small concrete block. <S> You might even make some handholds in the block to make it easier. <A> But route out a section of your floor and make the base plate closely resemble the floor, then set the whole thing into the routed-out hole. <S> Get several L-shaped brackets and use them to bolt the table to the floor. <S> Ugly. <S> Make the base hollow with a secretly removable panel. <S> Hide the L brackets inside the base of the table. <S> Get access from below, and run long screws or bolts through the ceiling of the room below into the bottom of the table. <S> Solutions in which the table can move with some difficulty: <S> Go to a gun store and purchase <S> let's say three to six hundred pounds of lead shot. <S> Fill the base with shot. <S> A bit expensive -- <S> Amazon has lead shot for two dollars a pound if you buy it in 50 pound sacks -- but easily done. <A> Fasten it to the floor . <S> A table designed like this really needs to be secured. <S> Unless you're going to bevel-in a removable decorative center piece (to allow access inside the pillar and a means to attach the top) you will have to attach it with brackets that will show on the underside of the tabletop. <S> It's better than being the one whose house has that-table-that-fell-on-me. <S> Filling it with lead is an awesome suggestion but keep in mind that the shipping will be half the cost ($50 for 25lb, delivered). <S> Bricks will not be heavy enough, not even granite block <S> (they would just make it hurt more when it lands on your foot). <S> What happens when someone who weighs 250lbs sits on the edge of your two foot lever? <S> A thousand dollars worth of lead may or may not come crashing down. <S> Or if you happen to be there and had used brackets, you can ask them not to sit on your table.
|
Remove the table from its base and attach it to the floor joists with brackets, from the inside (find those joists or it may pull up the flooring). Solutions in which the table cannot easily move: Make a base plate, as you suggest.
|
Do receptacles require a 20 ampere breaker? I thought wall receptacles required a 20 amp breaker. Am I wrong? <Q> Answer based on the NEC in the US. <S> In some areas with local amendments to the NEC maybe, but it's not an across the board code requirement. <S> There are areas in a home that do require 20A circuits, such as bathroom receptacles, laundry receptacle(s), kitchen/DR/pantry receptacles. <S> Other areas such as garages, utility rooms and unfinished basements it is definitely a good idea. <S> Personally I do most receptacle circuits on 20A, but this is not a hard and fast rule for me. <A> 'T'-bladed 20a receptacles must be on a 20a breaker. <S> A 15a simplex outlet (where it only accepts a single plug) must be on a 15a breaker. <S> Standard 15 and 20 amp duplex receptacles (slots for two cords) may be protected by either 15's or 20's. <S> Is using 15 amp components on a 20 amp breaker against code? <S> Provided <S> it's not a simplex outlet (or as long as there is "2 or more" outlets on the circuit), code allows this. <S> www.inspectionnews.net, 20 amp duplex receptacle on a 15 amp circuit? <A> The maximum breaker size is determined by the wire size —not the type of outlet. <S> For example, 10 gauge copper normally has a 30 amp breaker. <S> However, it is perfectly fine to use a 25, 20, 15, or even a 10 amp breaker on 10 gauge. <S> Likewise it is safe (but a bit odd) to install a 50 ampere rated outlet on a 15 amp breakered circuit. <S> One might do this for connector compatibility with say an RV or boat cord especially when you know the maximum load in the vehicle will be within range of the circuit. <S> But it would not be safe to change the breaker to 50 amps to match the 50 amp outlet if the wire is smaller than 6 gauge.
|
Outlets rated for 20a is fine, a 20 amp outlet with a T slot, is not. It is okay to install a smaller rated breaker than the wire can carry, though that may be confusing to future owners.
|
Are entry door systems with lock release secure? I am renovating my recently bought house. It currently has a entry door system with a lock release on the yale lock so that you can release the door from one of the handsets. something like this . I have handsets all over the house so I opened up the entry system outside (1 screw) to make sense of all the wiring and realised that I could short circuit the power and lock wire and open the door from outside. I would have thought that it would be more sensible if the door release circuit was not exposed outside. Is this how they all work? Surely this isn't secure? Can I improve this? <Q> If I am inferring correctly what you are describing, it sounds like the "brains" of the system are installed outside with one screw access. <S> That, of course, is an abysmal design. <S> The only thing that should be outside accessible would be the wires to the call button and speaker - all other wiring should be inside-access only. <A> The system to which the question links lists this "Flush Mortice Lock Release12v AC/DC - Fail Secure" under the heading *Related Items You May Need". <S> If the lock is in a locked state, it remains locked upon interruption of power just as one would respect of a competently designed system component. <A> I don't know the details of that system, but that certainly is not "how they all work". <S> The box outside should only be an intercom in the one you've shown us. <S> If there was a keypad to unlock the door, that would only send key-press signals rather than connecting directly to the latch. <S> The wire which operates the latch should NOT be exposed. <S> Either you're misreading the circuit, or someone was incompetent when they designed it (unlikely), or someone was clueless when they installed it (fairly likely).
|
If you are otherwise happy with the system, you could probably move the components that should not be outside inside, leaving only the wiring needed for the outside components running to the outside box.
|
How can I deal with non square walls when installing a countertop with backsplash? I am converting the huge upstairs master suite in my house into a studio apartment. I have built a kitchenette in one of the dormers. Everything is coming along and looks great. But when the counter was dry fitted into place, we realized the corners of the dormer were not square. The counter is flush against the window but is 5/8" off the wall at each corner. I had planned on installing a subway and mosaic tile back splash but don't know how to deal with the gap. I love the way it has turned out but all the wind has been knocked out of my sails with this problem. <Q> If you are installing a tile backsplash, just sort the issue out on the tile substrate. <S> Depending where you want the tile surface, either overlay backerboard and shim to correct the gaps, or rip out the current wall surface and replace with backerboard, shimmed to correct the gap once the tile is installed (which may mean an even gap before the tile is installed, again depending how you intend for it to look.) <S> It's a small area, should not be too difficult/lengthy a process. <S> Counter looks a wee bit high going by the window opening... <S> if that's an egress window you may fail inspection for partially blocking it. <A> In my kitchen, there's a wooden cap molding which hides any gap between the backsplash and the wall, stained to match the cabinets. <S> I can't immediately tell whether it was scribed to follow the wall, simply nailed down tight, or if the wall was leveled in that area before the cabinets were installed... <S> but if you're willing to have the backsplash's reveal be a bit uneven, this would probably suffice to hide the problem. <A> For a small runout on laminate countertops <S> I like this method. <S> I assume this is a laminate counter top. <S> First cover the top of the back splash with a one inch width of masking or green painting tape. <S> Run a pencil held vertically <S> so it transfers the bulging section of the wall to the top centre section of the back splash. <S> In this case the centre section of the backsplash. <S> Trim along the line so the end result is the middle top of the back splash will be slightly thinner than the ends. <S> This will allow the counter top to move back slightly reducing the spaces on both the left and right sides that were being held away from the wall by the centre section. <S> Repeat a tiny amount each time to gradually make the back sides come closer to the wall reducing the space. <S> Use a very fine tooth metal cutting blade in jigsaw take your time, do not let it jump up losing contact with the surface to reduce chipping. <S> The back splash is very thin along the top <S> so it will cut easily. <S> I suggest green painting tape to be applied so the pencil mark shows up. <S> It will also protect against chipping and scratching. <S> Reapply painting tape for each cut.
|
Caulk the back splash where it meets the wall to eliminate any remaining narrow gap.
|
How do I properly nail two 2x4's at a 90 degree angle? Nail the horizontal 2x4 into the vertical 2x4 about 1/4 of the way down from the top of the vertical 2x4, so they are at a 90 degree angle. The way I've been nailing this scenario is to just nail through the vertical 2x4 at a 0 degree angle, directly into the middle of the end piece of the horizontal 2x4. I've read though, that the pros like nail at a 45 degree angle, so that the nail doesn't go through the end piece of the horizontal 2x4, but through the top part. Is this correct? I don't like having the end part of the nail stick out.. even if I hammer the sharp point towards the wood. So are my projects going to not last long if nailing directly into the end piece? They seem to work just fine for the time being, but am wondering what the correct approach is. Thoughts on this? Obviously I'd have another vertical 2x4 on the other side too, so it stands up. * Ignore the green and red brush lines, accidentally saved over what I wanted <Q> Nails are generally put in at 90 degrees to the wood (i.e. straight in), unless you are "toe-nailing". <S> (see picture) <S> It all really depends on the application. <S> As opposed to just nailing straight in, like if you were nailing together a built-up beam (face nailing) <S> - Toe nailing the wood <S> is usually not bearing much or any weight on the nails, they are holding wood in place. <S> If the wood is going to be horizontal and bearing weight , face-nailing parallel members is good. <S> However, for perpendicular members, I would want structural hardware in end nailed or toe-nailed pieces (joist hangers, angle brackets, etc.). <S> I've read though, that the pros like nail at a 45 degree angle, so that the nail doesn't go through the end piece of the horizontal 2x4, but through the top part. <S> Is this correct? <S> I don't like having the end part of the nail stick out.. <S> even if I hammer the sharp point towards the wood. <S> If the nail sticks out the other end, you should use shorter nails. <A> am wondering what the correct approach is <S> I don't think there is a single correct approach. <S> For building construction, in my part of the world, builders tend to join structural timbers using purpose-made bent perforated metal plates that go by various names (e.g. "gang nail plates", "spike plates", "joist hangers", "truss clip" ...). <S> When using 2x4s to make a gate I joined them using conventional woodworking joints† and waterproof glue. <S> If you are fixing a noggin (or fire-stop) to a stud, I believe they are usually fixed by driving nails through the studs into the ends of the noggins. <S> You should probably work out the likely direction and magnitude of stresses on the joint and make a decision based on that and other factors. <S> Footnote <S> † <S> I've seen mortice & tenon, lap-joints, dowels and other types of joint used. <A> For structural applications, I prefer framing angles because: End grain nailing is almost always poor practice. <S> Good quality toenailing is often difficult to achieve for people who are out of practice, e.g. non-carpenters working on a one-off joint. <S> Framing angles can reduce the need to hold a piece in place while making the first fastening. <S> Framing angles typically use shorter fasteners which are easy to install. <S> Deciding how to join two pieces of wood is a matter of selecting components at the store or in front of an online catalog, rather than during actual construction. <S> Because they are engineered, framing angles more easily provide consistent joints. <S> Simpson StrongTie and USP are two companies which produce such products for the US and other markets. <A> When "end nailing," place the wood on a flat surface (such as, for example, a concrete pad that you poured to later put the wall on) and stand squarely on the piece furthest from the hammer (with your steel-toed boots). <S> This keeps the wood more stable as you drive the nail in.
|
Hammering nails in at an angle can help them to resist forces that run in the same direction as a nail hammered in at 90 degrees to the wood. It really depends on the application and on personal preference.
|
What kind of floor is this? I got different answers from different contractors and I am so confused now. Some said this is hardwood, and some said this is bamboo.If is it wood, is it possible to tell what kind of wood is this? Can you really tell by eye what kind of floor is this? <Q> Looking at different images may help you determine the species. <S> Keep in mind <S> I'm not a wood expert, and wood being a natural material will vary widely. <S> Ash Ash tends to have a bold semi-tight grain. <S> Hickory Hickory tends to have a more subtle longer grain. <S> Maple Maple tends to have a subtle semi-tight grain. <S> Bamboo Bamboo tends to have a long straight tight grain. <S> The next question is to determine if it's solid, engineered, or locking. <S> The best way to figure this out, is to look at the ends of a plank. <S> Solid <S> Engineered <S> If it's engineered, it will look like the edge of a plywood sheet (a bunch of thin layers of wood). <S> Locking Locking will tend to be thinner, look more like Medium-density fibreboard (MDF) or plywood from the side, and will have a funny looking tongue that locks with the adjacent plank. <A> That is maple. <S> Plain old, flat sawn rock maple. <S> There's no way to tell from the pictures if its engineered or solid but if you knock on it the sound will tell you. <S> Solid sounds very dull, like knocking on a sidewalk. <S> Engineered hardwood, even if its installed very well, sounds a bit hollow. <S> You might not notice it when you walk across the room but if you tap on it with your wedding ring you'll know. <S> I might suggest not contracting with the guy that thought that was bamboo because apparently he doesn't know what either bamboo or maple looks like, which is not a great sign. <A> Flat sawn (note the cathedral pattern), but more than that? <S> Meh.
|
If it's solid, it will look like a solid block of wood. Likely maple, but there are a bunch of central / south american woods that are cheap and similar in appearance. Oak Oak tends to have a bold tight grain Definitely not bamboo, which is a monocot, and has a distinctive appearance.
|
Furniture needs to be attached to the wall, but my tenancy agreement doesn't allow it I've just rented an unfurnished apartment. Obviously I need some furniture. However, wherever I look (IKEA and similar websites), the instructions for any furniture I look at say that it has to be fixed to the wall, to prevent it from falling over. My tenancy agreement (and all tenancy agreements, as far as I know) doesn't allow me to make holes in the walls, for understandable reasons. If I go ahead and buy furniture but don't fix it to the wall, how big is the danger of it falling over? Or, is there furniture that doesn't need to be attached to the wall? There are no children or pets and earthquakes are almost unheard of. I imagine that everyone who's ever rented a house or apartment has had to deal with this but surprisingly I can't find anything on the subject. <Q> As a landlord I would say it's not the putting holes in the walls that I don't like, it's the leaving holes I have a problem with. <S> As long as it's a normal sheet rock and paint wall, not paneling, finished woodworking, or masonry, that's a different story. <S> A few holes for a noble cause (keeping your bookshelf from crushing a toddler for example) is not an evict-able offense, unless your landlord is out of his/her mind, so the worst thing that can happen is getting dinged on your damage deposit when you move out. <S> And if you properly patch and paint your holes that won't be an issue either. <S> I'd still ask first though just to be safe, we landlord's hate the old "ask for forgiveness instead of permission" trick:) <A> That changes when you live in earthquake country <S> I live in earthquake country (Tokyo) <S> Every home center here has an entire aisle of brackets, braces, anchors etc. <S> designed to hold things up without drilling - useful as most apartment walls are bunker-grade concrete. <S> However, nothing in our place is attached. <S> We deliberately pack it bottom-heavy, don't buy the tall, thin shelving units, and don't place them where a fall will damage anything. <S> Some lightweight items are held down with gel pads, and the TV has both gel pads and a retaining line on the back. <S> The 2011 quake produced zero damage. <S> Regarding the instructions from IKEA etc. <S> this may have more to do with liability than instability. <S> If you don't anchor it to the wall and your 2-YO climbs the shelves, they can point to the lack of anchors and the instructions (and enclosed bracket) saying you didn't follow the instructions <S> and therefore it's not their problem. <A> It is good practice to anchor any piece of furniture which could topple [or for that matter anything which could topple]. <S> Some reasons furniture might topple: Seismic activity: Beyond moving, this is out of a person's control. <S> Improper Loading: <S> e.g. bookshelves with heavy items on upper shelves above light items on lower shelves or file cabinets with full top drawers and empty lower drawers. <S> Abnormal contact: <S> e.g. children climbing or an inebriated person using the item for support. <S> It may makes sense to discuss the safety issues with your landlord, and otherwise worth the risk of financial penalty in order to create a safe living environment. <A> I have never fastened freestanding furniture to the wall, until recently when I had children. <S> I have never had a dresser or shelving unit tip. <S> I don't live in an area where earthquakes are common, and I'm guessing you don't either if the landlord won't let you fasten furniture to the wall. <S> However, in defying the manufactures instructions you are doing so at your own risk. <S> So be careful, and don't open all the drawers of a dresser at once, for example. <A> Do they prohibit you from nailing pictures to the wall too? <S> If so, that's ridiculous. <S> If not, then do this: Use a stud finder to find a stud. <S> Drive a 2" drywall screw through the furniture anchor and the drywall and 1.5" into the stud. <S> Anchor the furniture. <S> Plan to move out in a few years. <S> Patch the hole with a dab of spackling compound. <S> The hole you'll make will be tiny and insignificant; barely distinct from a picture's nail hole once filled in, especially if the drywall has any texture to it. <S> Your landlord will never notice. <S> If the wall is painted a bright color that makes the patch stand out, it probably still doesn't matter because your landlord is most likely going to repaint the whole place once you move out and withhold a portion of your security deposit to pay for it regardless of what you do. <A> If I don't have kids or pets and live outside a quake zone, is there furniture that doesn't need to be attached to the wall? <S> Yes , anything made out of real wood that has a foot at each corner or generally, anything not from [expletives] IKEA.
|
Assessing the risks associated with unanchored heavy furniture requires prudent judgement specific to the circumstances.
|
How can I determine why my lights flicker when the A/C is running? My lights considerably flicker whenever a large load comes on in the house and it has been this way since we renovated five years ago. I am attempting to troubleshoot this now and have already probably waited longer than I should have. I did some reading and ultimately removed the cover of the main panel and tested across the two hot wires at the main panel. All circuits were active. The reading I received was 245 +/- 2V, meaning average of 245V but fluctuated between 243V and 247V. I then had my wife turn our whole-house air conditioning unit on and voltage dropped to 237 +/- 1V while AC was running. Is this a normal voltage drop when a large appliance is turned on or is this indicative of an issue? <Q> What, if any work was done to the electrical system when you renovated and the problem started? <S> In addition, what, if any work was done on the house in the immediate vicinity of the electrical service entrance? <S> Do you happen to own a non-contact thermometer (or know someone you could borrow one from?) <S> If this is a bad connection (and that's my guess), it will be heating itself (more or less depending on how much current loads in the house are drawing) - ie, if your microwave draws 10 amps, it's heating itself with 20 watts (10A X 2V) when you run that - if your AC draws 30 amps it will be heating with roughly 270 Watts (30A x 9V) Lacking a non-contact themometer you can sometimes find these by touching the grounded exterior of electrical enclosures and feeling for heat. <S> Having one means you can also look at specific parts inside the panel (but the problem may not be there <S> - it may be in the meter box, which you generally can't open yourself anyway.) <S> Ideally you'd start at some point when nothing much has been using electricity in the house, or you've actually shut off the main for several hours, go around and feel/measure temperatures, then turn on the power and turn on as many loads as possible and feel/look for an area that is getting much warmer than the rest of the wiring/enclosures. <S> Since you are evidently comfortable in the open service panel, you can also check for voltage differences between the incoming wire and the terminal it connects to, and/or see if the voltage you measure is very different (under load) if measured from terminal to terminal or from incoming wire to incoming wire. <S> That checks that end of the meter-to-service cables - the other end you generally need an electrician or the power company to check. <A> It's tough to say for sure without seeing the setup and troubleshooting further but it could be a sign of a bad connection (corroded, loose, damaged, etc.). <S> Does this occur only on some circuits, or the entire house? <S> This will give you an idea of where the issue is - if its all circuits then its likely between your panel and service. <S> Something to watch out for is if the lights get brighter or the voltage jumps up (you'll only notice this on 120V circuits). <S> This is a sign of an open neutral which can be very dangerous and likely requires a licensed electrician to help troubleshoot. <A> The fact that the voltage drops that much at the main leads pretty well says it is a power delivery problem upstream of there. <S> There are only a few components it could be: <S> wires from the breaker panel to the power meter base <S> the meter socket <S> the meter itself <S> wires from the meter base to the transformer <S> transformer taps <S> the transformer itself the feed upstream to the transformer <S> If you have other neighbors sharing your transformer, measure one of their voltages while you turn on and off your load. <S> If there is similarly significant voltage variation, the problem is clearly with the utility. <S> If their voltage is steady, the problem is between the transformer and your breaker box. <S> As far as I know, the electrical utility usually owns and is responsible for all of these but the first two (meter socket and the wires from the meter base to the panel). <S> You could try giving the meter a wiggle to make sure it is fully seated in its socket—especially if the meter was removed during the renovation. <S> Since they will pull the meter to do this, try to be there to inspect the connections to your wire to the panel. <S> Maybe the tech will measure its resistance for you. <A> Add a capacitor across the lines feeding the A/C unit. <S> The capacitor will discharge in an effort to maintain the original voltage level when the A/C equipment starts. <S> This should improve if not completely eliminate the problem.
|
Call the utility to check their connections and voltages up to the meter base and the meter itself. It is important to find and solve this issue before it gets worse; you're in the early stages of "how electrical fires get started" IMHO.
|
How can I determine what's behind a wall? I live in a two story house build in the 60s. The lower floor(half buried) is only under half of the ground floor so I think there is a possibility that there is an extra room beside a wall in the lower floor. When I knock on the wall it emits a hollow sound. Any ideas on how I could find out if there is a room behind the wall without drilling through it or knocking it down? <Q> Sure there are other ways, you could spend tens of thousands of dollars to have it x-rayed (they do this in commercial buildings), but realistically, drilling a small hole and using an inspection camera is the simplest and cheapest route. <S> You might also try contacting your cities building department to see if they have any plans on-file - this might show you what is there. <A> You could analyze pipes and wiring, looking for things unaccounted for in the rest of the house. <S> If the lower floor is "half-underground" it would be fairly unusual to have no room there if the ground is level and "halfway" all around. <S> I managed to find a "mystery cubbyhole" in my abode once by noting that measurements didn't add up. <S> Nothing exciting in there, just a "dead space" (per the thinking of builders who didn't believe in storage space, I guess) covered in drywall and closed off. <S> I also lived for a while in a house with no mystery - there was a narrow, accessible space behind the uphill wall of the lowest room, and the wall behind the wall was raw rock that the foundation had been quarried into, which leaked out water when it rained. <S> The non-mystery space was there to divert the water into a drain. <A> You could measure the length of the inside floor, wall to wall, and compare it to the length of the exterior, right? <S> Just keep in mind the 2x4 walls and subtract that from the exterior length. <S> If there is no real variance, then you no longer need to be curious, but... <S> If you have a couple foot variance inside, than cutting a hole would make sense then. <S> Yea? <S> (looks like these people did that to cover a hole...see the light). <A> I created a detailed plan drawing of my upstairs and found two places that didn't add up. <S> I had brief hopes for more closet space, but I think it's where the ductwork crosses from the attic to the lower floor.
|
If the "mystery room" side is uphill and fully or near fully underground, while the other side is fully or near fully exposed on the downhill side (thus still allowing for a description of "half-bured") you are probably going to be disappointed in your "mystery room", as it is very common to have a step-wise foundation in that case, and the area will very likely be full of dirt, probably with drywall over studs over concrete wall, from the description. But the only way to know for sure is if you open a hole and have a look. After scratching my head a lot and triple-checking how the measurements didn't add up, I cut out an access hole in the drywall between two studs, and there it was. Also, you could cover a hole with a vent cover
|
What is the meaning of the letters on the top of a common hex bolt? I recently drilled and tapped a 5/16"-18 in a piece of soft steel, then found that the 5/16"-18 bolt I had chosen wouldn't fit (the bolt was slightly too large). When I found that other 5/16"-18 bolts fit just fine, I got curious and eventually tried every 5/16"-18 bolt that I had. I was amazed to find thirteen different sets of letters (and sometimes numbers). The one bolt marked "AKD" was slightly too big to fit. Of the four marked "HKT", two fit and two did not (too big). All the others fit just fine (though with slightly differing amounts of slop); they were marked "AFE", "AHB", "AKD", "AMD", "BL", "FH", "HBJ", "HBN", "HBS", "HHW", "HKT", "307A CYI", and "307A JZ". A few had no letters at all. I got these bolts at different times and places over an unknown number of years, at various hardware stores and big home centers. They are all steel, not galvanized, not stainless (as far as I know), and all the threads are the same (18). None of the heads bear any of the lines that are supposed to identify the grade. I've been searching the internet, and I found many sites that claim to explain these codes, but so far none of them include the codes I found on my bolts. Can anyone point me to a comprehensive reference for these codes? <Q> Those sets of three letters sound like a whole slue of manufactures as seen here <S> (fastenal.com) <S> in the example of a head marking, on page 44. <S> The Appendix, beginning at page 36, shows industry standards. <S> Any bolt not conforming to these specifications is assumed to be a grade 2 or less. <A> The three-letter code is the manufacturer code (for example, HKT stands for Hau Kwang Enterprises) and the numbers (if metric) or radial lines (if SAE) refer to the bolts' strength. <S> If there are no numbers or lines present, assume the bolt is no better than a grade 2 (low strength). <A> The letters are from the manufacturer mostly in combination with the material grade. <S> Why the bolt did not fit ( in my guess ) is that you have different types of thread . <S> UNC / UNF / UN Coarse / Fine .. even though the size is the same the TPI ( threads per inch ) can be different. <A> Are you certain that the ones that did not fit are actually 5/16-18 UNC and not M8 <S> x 1.25? <S> The 8 millimeter threads will often seem to start in a 5/16 tapped hole but will quickly interfere. <S> The outside diameters are only 0.002" apart and the thread pitches are only 0.006" different. <S> You would be hard pressed to detect that by eye. <A> Here I've included a link to the best resource you'll ever find or ever need on the subject - The DEPARTMENT OF DEFENSE HANDBOOK <S> LISTING OF FASTENER MANUFACTURER’S <S> IDENTIFICATION SYMBOLS. <S> This .pdf <S> file from the US Department of Defense lists every bolt manufacturer that ever existed, quite literally. <S> If you can't find it here, it was probably made by aliens! <S> An example is "HHW", which means it was manufactured by Ho Hong Works in Taiwan <S> (page 152 in the .pdf document - page 105 as noted at the bottom of the document itself). <S> Here's the link: https://quicksearch.dla.mil/Transient/B11EB30153DE40B48DA8DA80AD186E9D.pdf <S> (PS: If you happen to get a "This site is not secure" message, it's nothing to be concerned about. <S> Just click "details" and then "Go on to the webpage". <S> This is a military - .mil - website that simply has a website certificate error. <S> I assure you that the site is perfectly safe - I've been on it many, many times.)
|
I know this is an old question thread, but the letters (and sometimes symbols) on a bolt refer to its' manufacturer.
|
How do I connect a C wire to an Utica PEG112CDE steam boiler? I want to upgrade my old mercury thermostat that I currently have to a newer programmable thermostat. This little DIY project is for my first late 1920's home that I recently purchased. I currently only have heat hooked, and use window A/C's, however I have no problem running a 18/5 Cable down to the boiler instead of a 18/3. My question is how to I the C wire from the boiler transformer. Please see pictures attached from the manual for the boiler (I have no idea why they even have 3 listed). Currently the two cables that run from the thermostat are hooked up to T-T terminals (on the top of the figures that run from TH-2). Would all I need to do is basically run a third cable to the empty C terminal in N-H-C-W-B terminals on there? UPDATE: The physical boiler has a Honeywell AT150D1001 transformer attached to it[next to the emergency cut-off switch]; which seems to be supplying the 24V to the system.(See picture below). My question now becomes do I use the white wire or the dark brown wire as the C wire that I run to the thermostat? <Q> The device labeled " PS-802 ELWCO ", is a low water cut-off. <S> The "C" terminal there, is not the C <S> you're looking for. <S> I believe the white wire from the transformer, is what you'll want to connect your C wire to. <S> I'm not 100% confident though, since I'm not that familiar with this system. <S> You may be able to contact the manufacturer for confirmation. <A> I just pulled this off. <S> You can't wire the thermostat to the T-T transformer, because when it calls for heat, the thermostat will turn off. <S> Ran a new 18/5 wire from the thermostat to the boiler. <S> Rh = <S> T-T Right - Red wire <S> W = <S> T-T Left - White wire <S> C = <S> New transformer - Blue wire <S> Rc = <S> New transformer - Yellow wire <A> Ok, so I have this same boiler that I wanted to add a Nest to <S> and I spent a little time looking into the wiring of the boiler a little more carefully. <S> I am slightly afraid that the Nest can bypass the pressure switch and low water cutoff if wired to the T-T terminals directly. <S> I had an issue where the Rh wire was connected to the BROWN T wire coming off the pressure switch and the W1 wire connected to the ORANGE T wire. <S> When the pressure switch cut off the power (as it is supposed to), the Nest complained that there is was no power going to Rh. <S> For some reason when this happened, our furnace kicked on and stayed on, which if you look at the wiring diagram shouldn't happen. <S> It seemed as if the Nest supplied power to the W1 wire from its battery - essentially bypassing the pressure switch and low water cutoff - which could be scary. <S> I think the best solution for a Utica or similar boiler with a (T-T) connection would be to purchase a simple 24VAC relay ( http://a.co/d/2RS0NHC ). <S> Connect Rh to R terminal on the 24V transformer (you can use tap into the same transformer that is on the side of the furnace), C to the common (C) terminal on the transformer, & W1 to the relay control coil pole (1 on the linked relay) and then back from the other relay control pole (3) to the transformer's common (C). <S> Then hook up the T terminals to each side of a the normally open poles (2&4). <S> This way the nest will essentially work like a dummy switch and you don't have to worry if it does anything weird. <S> It will always have power and won't bypass any of the essential cut off functions of the boiler. <S> Edit: Found this little video on Youtube which pretty much explains exactly what I described here. <S> It's not a Utica boiler, but it has basically the same type of T-T terminals for a thermostat and describes how to install an isolation relay for a smart thermostat. <S> - https://youtu.be/f0v3FeDZBeY
|
I bought a 24VAC transformer from Home Depot ($16) and screwed it to the boiler chassis just above the T-T transformer, and wired the 120VAC inside the T-T junction box.
|
How to repair a crack along the grain in a solid block of wood from a single tree? Approximately 3 years ago I purchased a slice of a log, approximately 50 cm (~1.5') wide at the widest place, approximately 2.5-3 meters (~9-10') long, and about 4-5cm thick (I don't have exact measurements with me right now, will add them in a comment later, if necessary and will add photos if necessary, also later). I think the wood is pine, but am unsure at this moment. The piece was cut into two pieces (~2m and ~1m). One was treated (by me) with an oil based coating ("Yacht Varnish") with two or three (can't remember now) fairly thick coats, from all sides. I don't know whether this is a mistake or not (let me know!) but I did not fill the imperfections first, but rather tried to put enough of the varnish to coat them as well. The other, after some time, was treated with two coats of water based laquer which gave is a nicer matte finish, in order for it not to be exposed to the elements. The long piece was attached at the ends (screwed with 2 corner joints on each end, such that it was resting on the joints) to a wall and a concrete column. The shorter piece did not find a use. After about a year the shorter piece developed a crack along the middle, with the grain. I did nothing about it. After we moved I turned the bar piece into a bench by screwing 4 feet into it. I did not remove the corners from the wood as I thought it might ruin the thread there, and allow moisture to enter the wood (planned to use them to add hand rests at the ends). Despite the fact that it felt very sturdy and that people sat on it a handful of time for a total time of maybe an hour, the board developed a fairly wide (3mm I think, at its widest) crack along the grain, around the middle of the bench. So, I have two questions:1. I presume I treated the wood badly or this would not have happened. What should I have done differently?2. What can I do now to stop the crack from spreading and to make the bench safe for sitting without fear of breakage? Most of all I want to avoid sanding it again as I don't have the proper place to do it and don't want to breath wood/lacquer dust. In regard to Q. 2, I thought about adding a frame undernear, shaped as H or as a rectangle. I thought that maybe the crack didn't develop earlier since the corners did not allow the wood to expand, and now that there is nothing holding them, it did expand in an uneven manner? or perhaps that the presence of the corners did not allow the ends to expand with the middle, and it was bound to happen anyway, with the way it was affixed? Thanks in advance for all the answers! Edit: Just measured: The cut piece is ~1.5m x 40cm x 4cm. The largest crack is about 1 mm wide and 50cm long. Photos:The crack at the end I think has been from some time after cutting the smaller part off and before the varnish: ( http://i.imgur.com/CgnBjeM.jpg ) First part of the crack (it is one long crack with varying width): ( http://i.imgur.com/AeAREE3.jpg ) Second part of the crack: <Q> The attached pieces and legs may have exacerbated the effects by not moving with the seat but a piece of pine of that size was probably destined to crack regardless. <S> but it probably won't be permanent and you could damage your finish with the clamp pressure. <S> Were it me <S> , I'd fill the crack with tinted epoxy and let the piece wear the crack like a badge of honor. <S> Think of a piece <S> reclaimed pine: <S> Tape off the crack with painters tape. <S> You don't want epoxy all over the finish, just down in the crack. <S> Mix <S> a 5 minute epoxy to the manufactures specs, then add 5% by volume a Van Dyke Brown (or similar) aniline pigment. <S> Most manufacturers will recommend a product compatible with their own on their website, I recommend West System. <S> Apply the mix carefully over the crack and then force it down in with a putty knife or shim. <S> Trowel off the excess as neatly as possible and let dry. <S> Repeat this step as necessary (sometimes is sinks in after application) until the epoxy fills the void flush with the surface. <S> Remove the tape preferably when the epoxy is still sort of gooey and let dry over night. <S> (yes it's 5 minute epoxy but trust me) <S> Sand off the residual epoxy with 220 and a light touch and then scuff sand the entire piece with 280. <S> Apply a light fresh coat of your original finish. <S> Hope <S> this helps, cheers! <A> Another traditional approach to reinforcing cracked wood is to install a "butterfly key" (also known as "bowtie key"). <S> This is essentially an inlaid piece that acts as a pair of dovetail joints to tie the two sides together. <S> Keys can be as larger or small as desired, in similar wood or contrasting wood ... <S> the latter is a bit more common since the key's grain direction is different anyway. <S> Websearch will find info about this technique; the site I swiped this image from is https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/tipstechniques/butterfly-key <A> 1/4" steel flat stock , one under each end, cut to width. <S> With counter sunk holes for short, pan-head lag screws. <S> Fancy installations will have an area routed for this piece, making it flush to the surface. <S> Ideally it runs under the legs, sharing two out of the four fasteners per leg. <S> Sort of like this :
|
You can try to weep glue down into it (run a line of yellow glue over the crack then blow it down into the void with an air nozzle) and then clamp out the space
|
What to do about a rotten top plate in the wall of old home addition? This week's rainstorms brought a leak in my roof above a set of windows that are at the low end of a single-story addition with a shallow roof. Our search for the source of the leak (which turned out to be a small hole in the EPDM membrane roof) revealed rot in the framing of the house, probably mostly from a previous leak from before we acquired the house. That leak was shoddily fixed — the owner sistered the rotting roof beams (see photo) but did not deal with the top plate, which is in pretty bad shape. What can we do about the top plate? <Q> It looks to me like the proper fix for this is going to end up being a lot more work that what you probably want to hear about. <S> If I was the contractor recommending the repair scenario I would be saying to remove whole upper structure and replace it anew. <S> Such a flat roof is always a recipe for a mess like this. <S> It <S> it was at all possible to rebuild the roof to add some rafters above to give some more slope <S> it would be the right thing to do. <S> Short of that, if you end up deciding that the rest of the roof structure is basically sound except in the area where these leaks have been then repair probably entails supporting the roof on temporary supports and then removing the window and the wall covering back to the corners. <S> It may then be possible to fit in complete new plates and rafter / joists to completely replace the wet and rotted materials. <S> Still a pretty sizable job. <S> :^( <A> In addition to what Michael said, I see an another problem: this roof structure is a moisture trap if you live somewhere <S> that's not a desert and where it ever gets cold. <S> Moisture-laden interior air that's trying to get out will migrate up through the ceiling drywall and the air-permeable fiberglass insulation until it hits a cold surface. <S> That cold surface is likely to be the boards of the roof deck which are exposed to the cold exterior temperatures and insulated from the warmth generated within. <S> So water is going to condense on the underside of the roof deck, run downhill, and pool... <S> exactly where the top plates are rotten. <S> There are two ways to fix this problem, while you're already having to make repairs to this part of your house: <S> Remove the fiberglass batts and apply an air-impermeable insulation like spray foam to the underside of the roof deck to prevent interior air from being able to touch the cold roof deck Attach rigid insulation boards over the top of the roof deck to keep it warmer so that moist air that hits it doesn't condense on it. <S> You'll need enough to keep the roof deck above the dew point in winter. <S> Needless to say, this will entail replacing the roof as well, as the roofing material has to go above the insulation boards. <A> Tear it all off and rebuild a roof that's not made out of 2x4's. <S> Temporarily support the beams and remove the sisters (the tacked-on LVL's). <S> Insert new 2x4 sisters that go the entire span, tucked above the header that would of been behind you while taking that picture, short enough to slip up into the cavity, just short of sitting on the existing header above the window. <S> Keep them as big as possible while still being able to psychically insert them. <S> A slight angle cut on the bottom of the 2x4 where it will sit on the header behind you helps squeeze it in there. <S> A slice off the side might help get the other end up into the cavity as you will be trying to angle them in there. <S> Then attach a new header to the face of the old window's header, ideally the entire length of the room, across the top of the windows; a cripple for your new joists. <S> (yes it will show and stick out into the room a little, just pretend its a decorative trim, perhaps bevel it or route the edge) <S> Stagger the spacing on the fasteners; one high, one low, ect., every 8-12 inches. <S> Fix the roofing before you do anything else.
|
To fix-at-it , tear off all the ceiling drywall. A framing nail gun may split the existing joists, you might want to use deck screws for attaching the new sisters to the existing joists. It's likely that even if you replace them and fix the roof leak, they will eventually rot again due to this additional problem (again, assuming you live in a place where it gets cold and is not a desert).
|
Can fluorescent lamps work in low voltage grid? My country house has low voltage (150~180V) and the lighting is mostly comprised of incandescent lamps. I don't really know if voltage has anything to do with the brightness of incandescent lamps, but it's dim in the rooms with them. I figured I could try and use a few energy saving fluorescent lamps and see how bright they'll be. But then I heard that fluorescent lamps don't work very well with voltage different from optimal. They break faster or give off less light. Since they're pretty expensive, I'd like to keep them alive longer. So I thought of buying a dedicated voltage stabilizer just for lighting, but it's also expensive, and before spending so much money, I'd like to make sure it will all work out as intended. How will low voltage affect fluorescent lamps? Will they even work at low voltage? If they won't, will a voltage stabilizer (regulator) help them glow brighter and prolong their life? <Q> Since you say 150-180V is low, I assume you live in a country where the standard voltage is 230V? <S> The first thing I would do is contact the electric company to see what they can do. <S> It's possible there is a defect in the connection to your house from the main utility lines that's causing the abnormally-low voltage. <S> There are probably all sorts of things that are not running well in your house: anything with a motor (a refrigerator, washing machine, etc); anything with a heating element (hot water heater, kettle); probably the only thing that could handle such a low voltage without a problem is modern DC electronics: most laptops, battery chargers, etc. work with 110V and 220V without requiring any adapters. <S> Anyway, to answer some of your questions: <S> Yes, running an incandescent that is designed for 220V at a lower voltage will cause it to be dim. <S> A fluorescent bulb is probably not so forgiving of low voltage. <S> I would expect it to not start. <S> You could buy one and see if it works. <S> A "voltage stabilizer" probably won't help you, since they usually are designed to smooth out momentary changes in voltage, not actually step it up. <S> What you really would need is a transformer. <S> I don't know if you'll be able to find something suitable. <S> Another thing to consider is getting an LED bulb that is capable of accepting a range of voltages. <S> Since LEDs internally adjust the voltage to something much lower than household levels, some models will accept wide ranges of voltages (e.g. 100V - 250V), so that they can be sold around the world. <A> There are fluorescent ballasts that accept a wide voltage input range (just as the LED ballasts that other answers are suggesting.) <S> Since you appear to want fluorescent lights, those would be what to seek out. <S> 100-277VAC is a typical input range, as is 120-277VAC (277 is common in 3-phase systems where a lot of commercial lighting is installed.) <S> If you cannot find a light with that type of ballast in your country you may have to order it from elsewhere, but they are commonly available and would appear to be exactly what electrical suppliers in your country should be stocking. <S> I am suggesting a florescent fixture with a ballast separate from the tubes, not a screw-in compact florescent "bulb" (though you may also be able to find the latter with a wide input range.) <A> Since you didn't specify your country, I'm assuming that you have a normal mains voltage of 230 or 240 volts. <S> On the good side, they will last a lot longer than normal. <S> If you want to try staying with incandescent lights, you can try higher wattages. <S> For example, replace a 60W light with a 100W. <S> In the case of electronic lights, such as compact florescent or LED, you need to check the labeling on the box. <S> Most will be marked for your specific mains voltage (e. g. "230V AC" or "220-250V AC". <S> You should not try to use these at a lower voltage. <S> at best they will flicker and at worst, they could burn out quickly. <S> You should try to find CFL or LED light designed for universal voltages, that is to say, to work in both the USA (120v) and Europe, for example. <S> These would be marked something like "85 - 250V AC". <S> You may need to get these mail-order. <A> While this does not directly answer your question, perhaps it is worth your while to persuade the electric utility to adjust their equipment to get your service up to snuff. <S> Distribution transformers have various closely spaced taps on them just for fine tuning delivery voltage. <S> Utilities tend to be motivated to deliver full voltage because low voltage means most equipment uses less watts than full voltage, and that means lost revenue. <S> A.C. motors being fed less voltage compensate by using more current (to a point), and that could lead to utility problems with overcurrent draw and a need for more distribution capacitors to compensate for the excess phase lag introduced by a motor.
|
Yes, low voltage will cause your incandescent lights to dim.
|
Should I be concerned if the toilet water level drops after a flush? After flushing, the water level in the bowl drops a bit. It takes about 30 seconds and loses between one and two inches. It starts dropping fairly fast, then slows, then stops, and then the level holds steady until next flush. Bowl still has a nice, respectable amount of water. No other problems around toilet; no word from person downstairs about leaks or ceiling stains (but haven't had chance to ask them specifically since noticing this). I'm not sure if the floor's level; may slope slightly toward back of toilet, don't have a level handy. This may even be normal for this toilet (is that likely/possible?)... I only noticed it now, about a week after clearing a clog with a closet auger, and hadn't paid attention to whether it dropped or not before. About that clog: it was from a toothbrush dropped into the toilet and pushed further down when I tried to pull it out by hand. Auger didn't retrieve toothbrush, but I guess pushed it through to main drain, because toilet has flushed fine ever since. Do any of these details make it more/less likely to be a leak into the subfloor? And if that is likely, I guess that makes things very urgent, or would it take a long time do any damage? (It'll be tricky to bring in a plumber until a few weeks hence, esp. if that means coordinating with other tenant.) Apologies for full-on newb questions; this isn't so much DIY as should-I-have-someone-else-do-something, and how-panicked-should-I-be-if-at-all. <Q> Open up the back part of your toilet and push down firmly on the flush valve ball (the flap that goes up and down when you press the toilet lever) after you flush the toilet. <S> Your ball/flap probably is leaking a bit and eventually settles after a flush. <S> These can be replaced by following a set of instructions and spending $15. <A> If the water level doesn't drop so low that air is sucked through the bowl, causing <S> a 'glurk-glurk-glurk' sound <S> it's likely fine. <S> (That sound is usually indicative that there's a partial clog preventing the vent from equalizing the pressure as the bowl drains.) <A> Based on all the evidence, I think there is still a partial clog inside or just below the toilet. <S> I would auger it again. <S> Also, check other nearby drains that they are functioning okay. <S> If other drains are okay, but the toilet continues to be odd <S> , I think it will soon clog when enough stuff is flushed. <S> Pulling the toilet and inspecting underneath may be required. <S> I think the toilet itself is fine. <A> I wouldn't expect to see evidence of water leaking outside the pipe, so the ceiling below should remain okay. <S> But this is a surprisingly common problem. <S> Here are most common causes: <S> Some extraneous porous material is stuck in the trap and is "wicking" water over the hump of the syphon. <S> For example, a strand from a string-mop or scrub brush, a piece of cloth, or even a stubborn scrap of paper. <S> I don't think a toothbrush would do this, but I suppose it's conceivable. <S> Snake the fixture trap again to make sure it's completely clear. <S> New fixture installs encounter defective castings more frequently than a reasonable person would expect. <S> Any hairline crack inside <S> the trap section of fixture can cause this symptom. <S> These are INTERNAL leaks, so no water outside the pipe would be evident. <S> Sometimes you can de-install the bowl and find (and even patch) <S> such a hairline crack. <S> I doubt your plunging opened a crack, more likely one was always there. <S> (The pattern you described of water consistently sinking slowly but steadily after a flush - without a glug - is NOT typical of a vent problem, more likely it's one of the previous issues.) <S> Partial clogs can mimic (or cause) venting problems as per above. <S> Its amazing how often cheap toilets come from the factory with internal trap leaks due to cracks in the trap walls. <S> Product exchange under warranty is the best remedy - albeit a dang nuisance! <A> I had a similar problem over the last day or two. <S> I noticed the level in the bowl had dropped but not so much to allow air in. <S> It would take about 10 minutes to drop. <S> Can see no leaks - floor dry - bowl dry etc. <S> Rung a plumber <S> and he said could be a partial blockage down line and suggested an ordinary sink plunger to force water down the toilet. <S> It appears to have worked. <S> Foe the last couple days the level has stayed constant. <S> So if no visible leaks - before calling a plumber get a plunger and try that first. <S> A lot cheaper!!! <A> It is a blockage slowing the flow of water drainage. <S> Trap in toilet is 2 - 3" slow leak from flapper will not flow enough to have noticeable effect. <S> Only thing is something slowing down flow through the trap.
|
Vent problems - or even windy conditions causing pressure fluctuations - can suck water out of a bowl.
|
How should I clean under the narrow toilet rim to restore full flush power? I have just moved into a new apartment and I found the toilet does not have a very powerful flush. After thoroughly cleaning the entire toilet – inside and out –, checking the water valve is fully open, and tank water level is correct, I still found the toilet to not flush properly. I believe I have traced the issue to grime and dirt under the toilet rim that must be clogging the rim jets. I tried a few different household cleaners with a toilet brush as well as pouring vinegar through the overflow tube. I have removed quite a bit of the dirt; however, about 35% of the toilet rim still does not provide water when the toilet is flushed. As many online guides suggest, I tried to use a mirror to look under the rim of the toilet and a wire to clean out the jet holes. However, the space between the bowl and the rim is quite narrow and I am unable to see any jet holes under the rim even when using a good mirror and flashlight. I do see a lot of dirt however and I cannot seem to get rid of it.Does anyone have any suggestions on how to restore full flushing to the toilet despite the hard to reach area under the rim? Is it possible that this toilet does not have any flush jets? <Q> You need to get some sort of acid into the affected area. <S> You can use vinegar, which is relatively safe but slow and relatively expensive. <S> You could use citric acid, commonly available as a dry powder that you can add to water, and generally cheaper (per effective acid function) than vinegar. <S> You can also use the nastier sorts of acid, some of which are pretty cheap, but generally more hazardous as well. <S> Some commercial toilet cleaners have a significant proportion of hydrochloric or other acid in them. <S> I would lean towards citric acid, myself. <S> If the water passage in the rim is not totally blocked, this should apply acid to the top of the problem area. <S> Let this sit in the passages of the toilet for a while (several hours, at least) and then repeat (or return to using the toilet normally until the next day before you leave the house, and repeat just before you leave the house.) <S> Do make sure that pets can't get at it and any other people in the house know to turn on the water and flush the toilet before using it. <S> With dry citric acid <S> you MIGHT be able to mix some with a tiny amount of water and effectively form a paste that you could get to stay up under the rim. <S> But I have not actually tried that, and you would have to be quite careful with it as it would be very strong citric acid. <S> Another method would be to deliberately and reversibly plug the toilet so you can fill it right to the brim with an acid solution and let it sit and work for a long time. <S> Something on the lines of a balloon stuffed in the bottom. <A> It's possibly, but highly unlikely. <S> A more likely answer is that the house must have hard water (or have had hard water in the past.) <S> This leads to iron, lime, calcium, manganese, and magnesium deposits. <S> I would suggest using one of the commercial hard water deposit removing substances- if I recall correctly, one's called CLR (for Calcium, Lime, Rust). <S> The hard part is going to be getting the solution up into the area you need it. <S> I'd try a foam scrubbing pad, soaked in the solution. <S> One caveat though, most of these mineral deposit removers are very caustic, use gloves and eye protection, especially if you're going to be inches away from them; and open a window for ventilation, too. <S> If you have any pets, make sure they can't get into your cleaning equipment before it's had a thorough wash. <A> I just use an electric toothbrush (I use only for cleaning) with extra thick toilet bowl cleaner and a mirror. <S> Takes about 10 minutes every 3-6 months depending on the time of year. <S> (Well water) <S> if it's completely clogged, I use a thumb tack to reopen the hole then insert a toothpick soaked in the extra thick toilet bowl cleaner.
|
Since it is difficult to get an effective application up under the rim, I'd shut off the water supply to the tank/cistern, add acid to the cistern and flush (either a very slow partial flush, repeated, or simply a full flush, depending how cheap you can get your acid or how much you care about the cost.)
|
Do I really need a redundant sump pump? So I'm getting my dirt basement encapsulated, and the contractor is installing an interior perimeter drain and sump pit/pump. They offer either a single good quality pump, a redundant system with just another pump, and a triple redundant system with a battery backup. I have no reason to believe that I'll seriously flood the basement, since water infiltration has been due to spring thaws and some relatively minor grading issues on one side (recently corrected)... is it worth springing for the double redundancy (~$400 extra) or triple redundancy (~$400 MORE)? <Q> Only you can answer if it's "worth it". <S> I would imagine if it did flood, the damage would be more than $400 <S> and you'd be kicking yourself that you didn't spend that $400. <S> If you die at 100 years old and it never flooded, I guess then you could say it wasn't worth it. <A> Most pump failures that I hear about are due to one of several causes. <S> The pump runs on a regular basis due to poor drainage, high water table etc. <S> Eventually it wears out and fails. <S> Usually it fails in the middle of a flood. <S> On other occasions it cycles very infrequently and it corrodes due to it being in a humid/damp sump well and rarely running. <S> The other failure occurs when the pump exceeds its' duty cycle during the one in a hundred year flood. <S> The pump just runs continuously until it fails. <S> I am guessing that the work your contractor is doing is several times the cost of the pump. <S> So you have a sum of money invested already. <S> I would go with the double pump. <S> By the way it is a a real pain to replace the failed pump while the cellar is flooded. <S> As @ <S> Tester101 has stated if time shown that power failures are an issue go with a battery back-up instead. <S> Remember that the battery requires regular servicing and won't run the pump for extended outages. <S> A watered powered unit is only an option if you have municipal water. <A> As others have suggested, you should conduct a risk assessment and consider the likelihood and severity of a flood or other fault condition. <S> Another option I've not seen suggested is to install a float or level switch connected to an alarm sounder/beacon which would indicate a rising level and potentially warning of a pump failure. <S> A friend of mine did something similar in his wine cellar containing a lot of valuable wine. <S> He ended up with a single pump and an alarm unit detecting room temperature and pump pit high level which would send an SMS over a GSM network to his cell phone. <A> This is especially true since power outages are common during storms, which could be a cause of rising waters. <S> If you do get a redundant system, you'll want to get one that doesn't rely on the same power source as the primary. <S> So you'll want a battery, or water powered system.
|
If you frequently have power outages, a redundant system could well be worth the cost.
|
What could be the source of dirt in attic I've had occasion to get up in the attic of my (new, to me) house recently. There is what appears to be dirt all over everything up there, with actual accumulation in places. This is a 2-story 1964 stick built stucco exterior home built over a dirt crawl space. There is no plastic or anything over top of the dirt. The walls are completely uninsulated. The only possible way I can conceive of dirt getting into the attic is stack effect sucking dirt out of the crawlspace and up the inside of the walls where it then settles out in the attic. Anybody ever heard of something like this or can identify another possible source for dirt in an attic? <Q> Tunnels going from crawlspace to attic is common. <S> Most termite guys will destroy the tunnels after treating the area and not bother to clean up the dirt. <S> Not saying this is the source (I'm not a termite inspector) <S> but something to consider <A> I can think of three reasons. <S> Dust, like you mentioned, but coming from anywhere (e.g. soffit vents), not just the crawlspace Debris from the the last roofing. <S> Termite turds. <S> Look up pictures of termite pellets. <S> Is like dust? <S> Sandy? <S> Gravelly? <A> A couple of thoughts... <S> If there are holes in the ceiling of the second floor then air can be flowing up into the attic. <S> Over years this can create a fair amount of dirt/dust. <S> Sounds like you do not, but suggesting... <S> When I moved into my home we had a minor mold issue in our attic. <S> It looked like dirt <S> but it was mold. <S> We had to remove the top layer of insulation and improve the attic ventilation among other things. <S> If you have an AC system maybe the air before it hits the filter is also exhausting out someplace. <S> Do the areas of high dust provide any sort of pattern? <S> Can you identify those areas of higher dirt and identify any reason they might get more? <S> Near a bathroom fan? <S> a hole in the roof that you assume or thing is sealed but might have a small opening etc.? <A> It could not be dirt at all. <S> If you see discoloration on your insulation that could indicate a high amount of airflow through the space over time.
|
If you have an automatic fan to ventilate the attic this could be pulling dirty air into the attic through the soffits. Subterranean termites build mud tunnels from dirt that they bring up from the ground. It may not be dirt and could be something else.
|
Should I replace my house wrap when re-siding? My house was built in the 60s and doesn't have normal plywood sheathing. It has that old sheet-rock-like sheathing (it's black, I think it is exterior gypsum). Basically the walls (right now) go, exterior gypsum > tar paper like stuff > foam board > vinyl siding. I am not re-sheathing the house, so I am unsure if a house wrap is needed when re-siding. I'm hiring a company to do the siding and the owner said it wasn't necessary to install a house wrap, I was hoping to verify that with someone who knows siding. <Q> Whether or not you want it has nothing to do with siding. <S> It makes no difference to the siding. <A> Being that you are on the upper east coast, I would say yes if you do not currently have a house wrap. <S> This will decrease moisture/air issues and is a good bang for your buck. <S> I also agree with Ecnerwal - the siding is its own thing - you really need both. <S> If the siding company tells you that you don't need it then it is possible that they believe you have a housewrap performing OK now or that they don't usually do housewraps (or feels like the profit isn't worth it or whatever) and don't want you talking to a siding installer that does. <A> Building wrap is used as an infiltration barrier. <S> Before materials like Tyvek were widely available, tar paper was used as appears to be the case with your home. <S> Materials like Tyvek superseded tar paper because their lighter weight allows wider rolls and thus more efficient installation. <S> But tar paper is fine. <S> As with building wrap, proper installation is more important than differences among suitable materials. <A> I believe if you don't have a moisture problem the way the house sits right now <S> ie. <S> Mold or mildew or popping plaster. <S> Then you don't need the added cost for labor and materials for a siding job.
|
The point of housewrap (brand-neutral) is that it is vapor-permeable air-barrier - as such it can reduce drafts and air movement, and thus potentially reduce your heating and/or cooling costs.
|
How do I stop a dimmer switch from humming? I installed a dimmer switch in my washroom and it's making a buzzing noise. The more I increase resistance/rotate the dimmer clockwise, the louder it gets. The humming seems to be coming from the common wire , not from the light fixture, live wire or from the mechanism within the dimmer itself. The dimmer switch is advertised to hold up to 600w and I'm currently using 340w. I tried to remove some of the lights and the noise persists. The one thing I did notice is that the common wire isn't exposed or attached at the end, a section of the wire has been stripped at that's what the original switch was attached to. How can I lessen or completely rid myself of this humming noise? Edit: I've since replaced my Leviton rotary dimmer with a high end Lutron sliding dimmer and the problem still persists, at the same loud volume. <Q> All dimmers buzz a little bit. <S> They "chop up" the AC waveform, which creates mechanical vibration (buzzing) and electrical noise (EMI). <S> Usually they are the most quiet when the lights are fully bright, and get louder as you dim the bulbs. <S> Here is a good page that describes what is happening. <S> A different dimmer may be quieter, although Leviton does make solid products. <S> I suspect, however, that you may be using the "new" CFL (compact-fluorescent) <S> bulbs? <S> They're the ones with the twisted white glass tube. <S> The electronics in most of these bulbs interact poorly with the dimmers and can cause a lot of noise problems, both audible and electrical. <S> Now that it has become difficult to find incandescent bulbs (at least here in the USA), a lot of people are having to choose between paying substantially more money for "dimmable" CFL bulbs, or simply replacing their dimmers with simple on/off switches. <S> Good luck :) <A> I just installed a Levitron 300w CFL dimmer in my newly renovated bedroom where I installed 4 recessed lights. <S> The two CFL's dim great but the two LED 65w bulbs hum. <S> I switched them around to make sure that it's not the switch but the bulbs that hum. <S> After I switched out the 65w with a lower wattage the humming stopped. <S> Make sure that all your bulb wattage that the dimmer is controlling is NOT higher than what the dimmer is capable of controlling. <S> I hope this helps. <A> If the dimmer itself is buzzing my suggestion is to replace the dimmer. <S> I would only use a high quality dimmer like Lutron, Cooper, or a higher end Leviton. <S> Also don't get a rotary dimmer. <S> Many cheap rotary dimmers are low quality with little filtering. <A> I noticed that putting a powerful magnet near the cord of my dimmed lights can eliminate the hum. <S> Maybe you could get some semi circular magnets, and place them around the cord? <A> The problem is with the prongs that hold the filaments. <S> With the cheaper bulbs there are not as many prongs to support the filament and keep from vibrating. <S> Try a more expensive bulb.
|
I have seen cheap light bulbs that hum when dimmed.
|
How can I totally smooth a wall surface without replastering? I have taken the wall paper off of a wall, to find there are several layers of paint under it. I have sanded till it's as smooth as I can get it, but there are still patches not even 1 mm deep that look like little indentations. I have bought polyfilla smooth over, but when putting this on, layers of the previous paint are coming off. The peeled paint is getting stuck to the roller, and then making the rest of the surface have lines across it. Should I sand more and risk damaging the plaster? Any help would be appreciated as I am a total novice. <Q> You could use a fine surface filler to fill the small imperfections and sand that smooth. <S> Alternatively, if the old paint is loose enough to pull off on the roller, you should probably scrape it off before painting anyway. <S> Finally, if there is too much surface imperfection, you could paper the wall with lining paper and paint over that. <A> Once dry, the surface will be able to be sanded lightly, to remove fuzz. <S> This product is sold as a primer and is a good water-based stain blocker. <S> Deeper imperfections will then need to be filled and sanded. <S> The non-latex, non water base fillers will not soften the surface. <S> Oil based ones like MH are also less shrinking. <A> I would avoid sanding the wall because it is likely that the paint has lead in it, and sanding will put fine particles of it in the air which can make you and your family sick. <S> Before you go any further, I recommend strongly that you purchase a lead paint testing kit to determine if there is any lead paint to deal with. <S> These kits are inexpensive and are sold at home improvement stores and some hardware stores. <S> To fix the holes/depressions in the wall, I recommend that you use a paint scraper like one of those "n in 1" tools that has a good scraper on it. <S> They usually have an end on it shaped like an awl that you can use to tap the wall to see if the paint is loose. <S> Scrape as much loose paint as you can. <S> You should also have good ventilation. <S> This will encapsulate the possibly lead containing paint. <S> After that has dried, then you can use joint compound to fill the defects. <S> Once the defects have been taken care of, prime the wall in those areas again and then put on a final coat of paint. <S> This will give you a professional level result. <A> It could be that some of the compounds in the smoothover are reacting with the paint to loosen it. <S> If not, then you are dealing with loose or insecure paint and you'll need to remove that before you have a surface you can smooth. <S> If the paint seems secure until you use the smoothover, stop using it and find another compound to fill in the dents and low lying areas. <S> If the paint isn't secure, remove all the loose paint, then sand, then fill and smooth. <S> As others indicate, given the history you should check for the presence of lead and take appropriate action if there are lead based paints in your home. <S> Another option is to use a primer to secure everything left on the wall, then use smoothover or a similar product on top of the primer.
|
After the loose paint has been removed, you should prime the wall with stain blocking primer. Using a coat of white pigmented shellac will harden and seal the distressed paper that is flagging. While doing this, make sure you use a dust mask with a respirator and eye protection.
|
Can I hang a TV with one stud and drywall anchors? I have read several questions on here regarding this topic but my situation is slightly unique. I have a TV mount that is about 20" wide. The studs in my wall are 24" apart. I am mounting a 55" tv. The tv weighs 53 lbs and the mount is at most 20 lbs. The mount does swivel so it might be pulled on to swivel the tv. The way I see it I have 2 options. First, put a piece of 3/4" ply wood into the studs and mount the tv on the ply wood. Or the second is a little easier, I can mount the TV into 1 stud and use heavy duty anchors on the other side of the mount. The anchors I have say they will hold up to 110 lbs. So 2 screws into the anchors and 2 screws into the stud. It seems like this will work, but I don't want to take chances with the TV. Please advise. EDIT***It is a steel stud. So I bought drywall toggles rated to 110 lbs. I am going to propose the following and ask what people think. There are 8 holes in the mount. What if I use the drywall toggles to mount the TV in the 2 holes nearest the center of the mount, then use Drywall anchors with a high weight rating in the other 6 holes. Between 8 anchors/toggles totaling almost 900 lbs with 2 of them mounted into a steel beam seems to me that it would be sufficient. I'd also comment that I have no intention of using the swivel feature. <Q> If it was a mount that didn't have motion, I might say that's acceptable, but not with a swivel mount. <S> Plywood can be attached to the wall studs using 3-1/2" lag bolts with fender washers. <S> To provide a clean finish, the drywall can be cutout and the opening filled with the plywood. <S> Then tape and mud the joints. <S> Sand the surface smooth, prime, and paint. <S> The plywood will be barely noticeable if done right. <S> Be sure to match the plywood thickness to the drywall thickness. <S> If you do not want to remove any drywall, the plywood can be mounted directly over the drywall. <S> You will need to use at least a 4" lag bolt in this case to account for the extra depth of the drywall. <S> The plywood can be finished with a routed edge, sanded, primed, and painted for a finished look, if desired. <S> A final option for a truly hidden mount would be to open the wall by removing the drywall. <S> Then install 2"x4" crossbracing between the studs at the correct locations for your TV mount. <S> Replace the drywall, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime, and paint. <S> The bracing is now hidden in the wall and you can attach the mount to the bracing. <A> Plywood would work well, but may not provide the nicest of aesthetics. <S> A 1x3 board (or thicker/wider) at least 25 inches long would provide more than adequate load capacity and convenience of attachment points. <S> Depending on the bracket mount, perhaps two such boards would be needed to attach upper and lower points and keep the bracket parallel to the wall. <A> EDIT <S> *** <S> It is a steel stud. <S> This is actually very bad news. <S> Steel drywall studs are sheet metal, not structural iron. <S> They are designed to hold up drywall, using the very sharp-tipped drywall screws, and not much else. <S> They typically don't have enough strength to take a large drill bit without buckling, and you will get the standard thin-metal messy hole as a result. <S> Between 8 anchors/toggles totally almost 900 lbs with 2 of them mounted into a steel beam seems to me that it would be sufficient. <S> The ratings are best-case, new installation. <S> Overtorque a toggle anchor <S> and it starts to cut through the back of the drywall. <S> Leaves a nice big hole when it pulls out. <S> As others have stated, a plywood panel is the best choice. <S> Pre-drill the panel for the drywall screws, use steel-stud screws 1 inch longer than plywood + drywall, don't overtighten. <S> If you don't pre-drill <S> the plywood it will not tighten up properly. <A> If you are inserting wood backing into a finished wall please be aware you may be able to do so from the opposite side of the wall. <S> Especially if doing so will be easier for the installer, make less mess, and be less conspicuous. <S> If you are hanging an articulating arm for use with a 55" TV, toggles, hollow wall anchors, moly bolts, ZipIts®, SpinIns®, or any other novel fastener <S> **will carry the weight but cannot provide for a static installation due to the underlying angular forces going into or out the plane. <S> In other words, "You'll eventually pull it off the wall, with or without the attached drywall." <S> How about a better mounting bracket? <S> I know they make ceiling fan mounting kits for remodel jobs <S> so why not for flat screen? <S> Check out what's available for TVs before you demo the wall if it should come to that. <S> I know there's a lot of hardware out there, although finding it can be difficult. <S> Check out commercial grade hardware as well as out of state or out of country vendors. <S> Be sure to read the manufacturers instructions as their concern for liability is at least as great as yours. <S> They also have professional engineers on staff or under contract to help write the directions for you, the companies legal department, and everybody else, so don't poo poo <S> the directions(like <S> I do sometimes) right off the bat. <S> Sorry I don't have an easy fix. <S> Whenever mounting anything that moves, I always emphasize overkill on "my" installations. <S> Movement over long periods of time is almost impossible to see early on and by the time its noticeable <S> it's usually too late for a quick and easy fix. <S> Good luck! <S> It never hurts to think outside the box. <A> I used two boards, 52 inches in length, used 3 1/2 inch wood bolts, put six bolts with washer in studs and top board was put on wall with bracket at same time. <S> I drilled hole in board first and aligned bracket to hole and stud. <S> I hung a 75 inch tv, worked perfectly. <S> we needed three people, with mantle over fireplace.
|
You will need to use wood in some form to add the necessary strength. Do not use drywall anchors to hang a TV that large on a swivel mount. Just don't forget to always consider the environment you're working in as it pertains to client side safety!
|
How can I remove this screw? Any one know how to open this screw? Tried pliers but no avail and standard box of security screwdrivers couldnt open it. Here are some more photos <Q> Those are external line head screws, and are used as anti-tamper screws in some Japanese electronics. <S> You can probably find a driver for them from a game console hack supplier (they're used on Gamecube, Wii, and some other game consoles). <S> The driver looks like this (sorry for the horrible pic): <S> They also come in 5 and 7 point varieties (hard to tell how many points from the picture you posted). <S> I've also seen them called torx inverted. <S> If you don't want to get a specific driver for them, you can probably get them out by clamping on the head really hard with a pair of vise-grips or use a screw extractor. <S> You might be able to find a socket that will mesh with them well enough, but that's a long shot. <A> Get an old toothbrush. <S> Head up the handle with a lighter or a heat gun. <S> When it gets hot, press it over the screw head. <S> Hold it until it cools. <S> That gives you a custom screwdriver. <S> Press hard when you use it. <A> It looks like a rivet, in that case you will have to cut it off or try to pry the head off. <S> It also looks like it has 6 tabs, you might be able to get a 6-sided socket on it and break the head. <A> You can use a pipe wrench for this. <S> If you use it "downwards" the wrench tightens itself on the screw. <S> It is a little tricky because you have to make sure the wrench stays on the screw of course.
|
If it's a screw, a couple of ideas: You can use a dremel to cut a slot in the screw head and then use a normal screwdriver on it.
|
Would vinyl plank flooring allow liquids to leak through? I'm looking to replace carpet on an upstairs bedroom and was thinking about going vinyl sheet (12' x whatever I need) to avoid seams. I need to have a hardwood look (requirement from the missus). The vinyl sheet looks pretty good, but the locking vinyl planks look even better. We have two dogs that occasionally have accidents in that room. I'm concerned that vinyl planks would allow urine to possible get into the joint and then onto the subflooring (where it couldn't be cleaned readily). So, would vinyl plank flooring allow liquids to leak through? Other thoughts or comments on the subject would be appreciated. <Q> Even if it is properly installed. <S> Using sheet vinyl will work perfect for your application. <S> The only way urine or any other liquid could get underneath would be if a hole/tear was made into the vinyl from mistreatment or from a big spill seeping in from under the walls. <S> Also you can get the room floored cheaper. <S> If you do need a seam in the room a seam sealer is used - like epoxy, so no leaks <S> I've been installing for a long time <S> and I have dogs that have accidents. <S> I have sheet vinyl down in their room (12'x18'). <S> No leak throughs. <S> Easy cleanup, no joint lines to scrub. <A> Neither offer a completely impregnable barrier but locking laminate is particularly susceptible to water damage. <S> Thermal fused sheet vinyl is often what they use in hospitals to create a surface that has no seems where liquids can seep through, but it takes special tools to install. <S> Heavy gauge plank vinyl when properly installed is highly resistant to spills and odors (my mother has had it in her hair salon for five plus years with no problems) and it cleans up beautifully. <A> You can add an underlayment with vapour barrier, or just 6mil plastic vapour barrier underneath. <S> Will protect the subfloor (wood) but not the vinyl seems. <S> For occasional "accidents" this could work, and protect the subfloor from long term soaking.
|
Vinyl plank will allow the urine to seep underneath, unless you use a sealant on the joints/seams. You can also get some sheet vinyl with wood grain in any tone/shade to match the room decor.
|
Why does my basement floor paint come off when it's wet? I painted my basement floor and now just 3 weeks later my washer leaks and the paint is peeling off. I also put some water down on a spot and when I wiped it up you can scratch the paint off. It is durable when dry but as soon as it gets wet it comes off. Why and what can I possibly do now? <Q> First it sounds like you used a latex paint which for a basement floor is not a good solution. <S> You need to use the messier, oil based paint. <S> This will soak into the concrete a bit and are a lot more durable. <S> This paint will continue to have problems when wet - especially with hot water or when scraped by something sharp or heavy. <S> Also at the 3 week period I doubt your paint has fully cured in a basement environment. <S> Once it cures it will hold better but probably not up to your expectations. <A> Sounds like you didn't use a concrete floor paint. <S> There are only a few kind of paints that can stand up to the harsh conditions of a basement floor. <S> Best thing you can do is try removing what is there and then applying the proper type of paint. <S> What you have will just continue to peel. <A> It will say on the can of paint what the cure time is. <S> The concrete has to be cured about 30 days to apply concrete paint. <S> But the room also has to be dryer than a normal basement. <S> I would run a dehumidifier for a week or so before you paint or if you have heat in the basement turn it on. <S> I have done this on 1 year old concrete with great success-no peeling even with occasional puddles and one flood. <S> I would us a high quality paint-research Consumer Reports to find the best ones. <A> The two key steps in painting cured concrete are proper surface prep; etching , and using the correct paint. <S> Etching opens pores in the concrete providing something to bond to and removes the alkali salts that will prevent good adhesion. <S> How do I prep <S> my houses exterior cement walls for painting? <A> I have had good experience with Epoxy paint on the garage floor. <S> if applied correctly as per instruction on the can, it is durable and scratch resistance. <S> The prep of the floor is extremely important. <A> We have the same problem for several years now on screened porch, patio and front entry way which is a covered porch area. <S> The water based paints do fine as long as not used walked on or get wet <S> but we live here! <S> It gets dirty and you try to wash it <S> the paint comes up and you get to start all over again. <S> Am going to an oil based paint <S> said to be for concrete to see how it works. <S> It only makes sense to me that if cleanup is warm soapy water water will take it up.
|
Some concrete paints need to have a primer/sealer put down if it hasn't been painted before.
|
Is it OK to use 1/4" concrete backer board over 1/2" plywood as a bathroom subfloor? I just bought a house built in 1978 and I'm planning on putting tile in the bathrooms (currently linoleum). The fixtures are removed and the flooring under the linoleum is particle board. I think its 3/4". It has a couple weak spots (one over a vent and the other around the toilet that was leaking). I was planning on pulling this up and replacing with plywood and concrete backer board. However, my question is, can I put 1/4" backer board over 1/2" plywood , so that the level of the floor is pretty close to where it was before and not have a large transition between the rooms? -edit to add-1 bathroom is along an outside wall of the house.1 bathroom is in the middle of the house with a support beam running along one wall (beam runs the whole length of the house).Bathrooms share a wall in between them (total span of 10ft from outside wall to middle support beam of the house).Both bathrooms are on the 2nd floor.both bathrooms are above another heated/insulated room.16in joist spacing.I don't know how big the joists are because I haven't removed the existing subfloor yet.We will most likely be installing ceramic tile. My main goal here is to create the smallest transition as possible between the bathroom flooring and the carpet (installed on the same particle board) outside the bathroom. If there are other options outside plywood + backer board that would be available, I am 100% willing to listen to them. <Q> 1/2" plywood is for temporary applications, exterior sheathing and used as gigantic shims. <S> It does not belong as a floor or a roof; minimum 5/8" exterior grade . <S> HardieBacker : <S> What subfloor should HardieBacker board be installed over? <S> HardieBacker board is not designed for use over concrete. <S> Durock : <S> Subfloor should be minimum 5/8" exterior-grade OSB or plywood . <S> Wonderboard : <S> For the subfloor, securely glue and fasten minimum 5/8" (16 mm) exterior grade plywood or OSB panels (PRP-108) to the floor joists. <S> Floor joists should be spaced a maximum of 16" (40 cm <S> ) o.c. <S> ; a 3/4" (19 mm) <S> Exterior Grade Plywood or OSB subfloor with I-joists spaced a maximum of 19.2" (48 cm) <S> o.c. is also acceptable. <S> For the threshold you don't want something that overlaps, like this : <S> For a Hardwood transition, you want the type that abuts the tile, like this one-sided beveled threshold: (I've had luck filling against them with grout; complementary colored caulk is also available for tile-to-wood transitions. <S> Standard thresholds can be ripped down, length-wise, to remove one bevel and then the bottom sanded down for a custom fit. <S> Endeavor for absolutely perfect cuts along the doorway .) <S> Since you are transitioning to Carpet , I'd use something like this or this : (an abrupt leading edge is more of a concern then a reasonably high threshold) <A> This is more of a comment because you don't have enough info to answer it properly <S> *** <S> You have an array of answers here. <S> None are right. <S> For most homes you want a minimum of 3/4" plywood + 1/4" backer or membrane (Kerdi). <S> This is bare minimum. <S> But there are a lot of factors to your install. <S> What is your joist spacing, how big are your joists, is there currently any deflection in your joists, where in the joist does the bathroom sit (on top of a support beam or in the middle of a run?), <S> what type of tile... <S> and so on. <S> Any answer that gives you specifics without knowing these things could waste your time and money. <S> But this doesn't help your transition issue. <S> You could lose maybe 1/4" by putting a membrane in. <S> Still have a transition step with thinset plus tile. <S> So you have a couple options: 1 - do it wrong, hope flex and movement in floor doesn't cause cracking in tile or grout lines. <S> 2 - do it right, live with transition. <S> You can put this right under the door and no one will notice. <S> 3 - go with something else like rubber planking - some look just like tile. <S> These would float right over plywood. <S> You can redgard floor if you want to add some water protection if needed. <A> I've seen pro tilers install tiles right onto a plywood (not particle board) subfloor by putting down Ditra mat. <S> I'm not a tiler <S> so I can't say 100% that this is advisable <S> but it's up to commercial code anyway. <S> It would solve you're height issues and its easier to install than backer.
|
If you want to be really safe you can go 1" subfloor plus 1/2" backer and this would be OK for 98% of the homes built in the late 70s (assuming they met building codes then). HardieBacker board must be installed in accordance with local building codes and the floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria, including live and dead design loads, for the specific joist spacing used. The minimum subfloor specified is 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 23/32'' exterior grade OSB subflooring .
|
Truth about high quality HDMI cables My home theater setup specifically warrants a 25 feet HDMI cable. I have a Sony Bravia 55" LED TV 3D + 240Hz refresh rate, alongside a XBox One, Comcast digital cable and Blu Ray player. I went to BestBuy and they were trying to sell me an 8 meters (26.2 feet) AudioQuest HDMI cable that costs $299 and an 8 meters AudioQuest optical audio cable for $99. Their justification was that the quality deteriorates as the length of the HDMI cable increases and the AudioQuest cables have silver that provides excellent conductivity of audio and video signals. But when I took a look online (Amazon), I saw a rather large selection of HDMI cables that were significantly cheaper (under $25) and pretty good reviews. Technical specs-wise, they did not seem all that different or inferior to the AudioQuest cables. So I am very confused. Is there any particular criteria that I should use to form my decision? I want the best bang for the buck and at the same time, I want cables that provide the necessary quality and are reasonably future-proof, although the latter expectation is not crucial. <Q> They're the same. <S> The "premium cable" game is nothing more than a big scam. <A> I agree with @iLikeDirt - it doesn't matter. <S> The thing is, HDMI is digital; it's pretty much work or don't work. <S> You can't just get a "degraded signal". <S> If you're running full resolution and you don't see it breaking up or severely pixelating, you're good. <S> Buy cheap cables and try it. <A> I bought one of the $20 variety of 8 metre cables with mini HDMI connector on one end and a full HDMI on the other. <S> It runs 4000p just fine. <S> No artifacts, no noise, no distractions. <S> It noticeably lacks silver, gold, and platinum.
|
Save your money and buy the cheap cables.
|
Sump pump & ejector pump: can I (and should I) change single dedicated non-GFCI receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI? Moved into a new home about 6 months ago which had been gut rehabbed. Our mechanical room has 2 pits, one for the sump pump and another for the ejector pump. I was planning on installing a battery backup system to our sump pump when I made a few surprising discoveries. neither the ejector pump or the sump pump were on GFCI receptacles. while the sump pump and the ejector pump receptacles are on different circuit breakers, the ejector pump is using a single dedicated receptacle, while the sump is on a dual receptacle, sharing with our alarm system. my impulse was to switch each receptacle to a dual receptacle GFCI outlet, but I became skittish after seeing the single dedicated outlet for the ejector pump. from what I understand, GFCI receptacles should be standard for this room since, by definition, we're talking about water with risk of flooding and shock. is there a particular reason the ejector has it's own dedicated outlet? if not, can a single dedicated receptacle be easily converted to a dual GFCI? if so, can the ejector pump and battery backup be on same dual GFCI outlet as I now have planned (with the sump remaining on it's own dual GFCI with the alarm, on a separate breaker)? While I've never installed a GFCI plate before, I'm comfortable with very basic electrical and it seems pretty straightforward. however, I don't want to get in over my head or be unaware of some important point about the single receptacle, and then be faced with flooding, sewage, electrical shock... and worse, angry wife. <Q> Current code leans to GFCI the heck out of it, and if it nusiance trips or fails (as they do with some regularity; typically about 10 years) and backs up sewage or water, tough noogies. <S> People who sell GFCIs write the codes, and they have been expanding places where GFCIs are required for years. <S> As of 2002 code (at least) there was still an exception for sump pumps and freezers, but those have been removed due to either "greater care for your safety" or "vast sums of money from GFCI makers <S> .vs. <S> no sums of money from people with flooded basements and freezers full of rotting food" in the code-writing cycles. <S> [It should be self-evident that the linked page is from the side with all the profit in this game, and just a tad smug/biased.] <S> I would NOT change the ejector pump to a dual, nor add anything to its circuit - sewage backups stink. <S> A dedicated breaker with one outlet is one way to be certain that nothing OTHER than a pump failure or power outage causes the ejector pump to stop; and depending on the pump, it may need the entire circuit to itself, period. <S> Even if it does not, sharing is poor practice, IMHO. <S> If you would like to add a GFCI to it, put in a blank face GFCI in-line before the outlet, or a GFCI breaker. <S> If it's installed to code as of the time it was installed, I'd suggest leaving it alone, but that's up to you. <A> There should be no technical problem just replacing both outlets with GFCI units. <S> For end of circuit branch they install pretty much just like a regular outlet. <S> Just make sure to connect the wires in electrical box to the "LINE" terminals of the GFCI unit. <S> These make it much easier to mount the unit into the box leaving more room for the wires in the back. <S> Check the amperage ratings of the two pumps, the alarm system and the battery backup unit. <S> You want to make sure that the total amperage allocated to each circuit does not exceed 80% of the capacity of the wiring and circuit breaker for each breaker. <S> I would tend to suggest that you swap the alarm system to be on the circuit with the ejector pump (within the above loading restriction of course) then place the battery backup for the sump pump to be on the same circuit as the sump pump. <A> If it ain't broke, don't fix it. <S> The pump is likely plugged into a single receptacle on a dedicated circuit, because there used to be an exception in the code that allowed a setup like that to avoid GFCI protection. <S> It's possible that the pump will not play well with the GFCI, and then you'll be up shits creek (literally). <S> It's quite possible that the other pump was originally installed this way too, <S> but then somebody needed an additional receptacle in that area. <S> This person likely didn't understand what was going on, and swapped out the single receptacle for a duplex. <S> Or all this equipment was installed before code required GFCI protection. <S> Newer pumps should be designed to work with GFCI protection. <S> If you ever update the pump, you should be able to switch to a GFCI then. <S> If you're worried about flooding due to a power outage, you could install a backup water powered sump. <S> Or better yet, get a generator. <A> GFCI is not required for dedicated circuits when a nuisance trip would be unfortunate - usages such as freezers or sump pumps. <S> So, I would not put a GFCI on those circuits. <S> They must, however, not have outlets that other appliances could be plugged into. <S> The ejector pump is okay, but the sump pump does not conform to code, as it has another outlet. <S> You current setup would be fine going forward for the sump pump + battery backup (1 duplex non-gfci outlet), and the ejector pump (1 single non-gfci outlet). <S> You should move the alarm to a GFCI outlet.
|
Two separate circuits would be needed if the ejector and sump pumps took more power than could be supplied by one circuit. When purchasing the GFCI units keep a lookout for the newer lower profile types that use up less back space in the electrical box. For now, I'd leave it as is.
|
Can I replace 3 switches with one 3 toggle switch I have three switches by my kitchen sink. One for the dish washer, one for the sink disposal, and one for the light above the sink. Three separate circuits. I purchased a Leviton 3 toggle switch with one pole on one side and three poles on the other. The sales person said to tie all of the hot wires together to the single pole and the other three wires to the three pole side. When I tied two of the hots together and turned the breaker back on it was like the 4th of July !!! I used a volt meter to isolate the hots from the nots. So I know I followed the advise. The instructions on the box show the hot side going to the single pole but don't mention multiple hot feeds to the single pole. Is the issue that you can't tie different circuit hot sides together ? Is this switch just made to feed three different devices from one circuit ? Thanks to everyone that replied to my question. Yes.. in retrospect I created a 240v circuit by putting the two 120v circuits together. Should have known better, but the resident expert at my local big box home improvement store told me that was what I needed to do. I realized the switch was probably meant for one single circuit after the sparks. Just wanted verification. Thank you all for your advice. <Q> Don't do it! <S> If you're in the USA and use single phase service, you've likely turned a 120 Volt circuit into a 240 Volt short-circuit. <S> You've directly connected the two legs of the service, causing a short-circuit. <S> The switch is intended to control three branches of a single circuit. <A> You can have two independent circuits on a double if you break its link tab off, but not on any triple that I know currently being manufactured <S> , Ebay : <S> I don't think they make the one ( justanswer.com ) on the right anymore: <A> If you use a single hot (as opposed to tying the hots together) it will work but will likely overload that hot conductor, the switch, and trip the breaker. <S> Your dishwasher and disposer pull a significant inductive load (they both have electric motors) and should be supplied by a dedicated circuit, never combined. <S> I don't understand why you would switch control the dishwasher <S> anyway?When you tied the two hots together you likely made a "phase to phase" connection, you are lucky you did not get hurt or start a fire. <S> Please be careful, or call an electrician.
|
If the devices are on separate circuits, you cannot "tie" them together. Please put the switches back to their original arrangement, but use heavy duty switches for the motor driven appliances. Yes, it is made to supply multiple loads from a single hot source.
|
how do i flatten my hardwood? I have a 60 year old house and the original hardwood floors have been covered for at least 25 years and the slats are cupped with the edges of each slat being higher than the center of the slat. What is the best way to sand these floors smooth so that i may put either another layer of hard woods or vinyl slats over the top of these existing floors? <Q> Worst case scenario : remove the flooring. <S> Medium damage throughout <S> : Lay down 3/8" plywood over it, first replacing heavily damaged areas. <S> Every board is slightly cupped : Have it professionally sanded and refinished. <S> Upright floor sanders can be rented but they are not for novices. <S> A random orbit sander would get it done... eventually. <A> You might consider removing the slats and replacing them with sheets of plywood - it's likely to be less work than anything else you will do. <S> You could use steam to soften the wood, and nail the edges, but that's a ton of work. <S> I would remove them <S> , it's less work than the alternatives. <A> Cupped floorboards are generally caused by water damage. <S> If the cupping is slight, you can sand it with a commercial sander. <S> If they are too far gone, then it might be better to remove the wood and replace it instead of going over the top of it. <S> If you add another layer to it, then it would throw off the height of the thresholds, doors, moldings, etc.
|
You could try a huge floor sander, but they are not made for removing that much wood, and you will be left with very weak slats.
|
How would I reverse yellow stains resulting from sealing a marble table top? I sealed a new polished marble table top with a granite sealer that also works on marble.The discoloration is slight, but I'd like to remove it. What's the best way to do this? I've read about "color enhancers" that accentuate color, but I'm looking for something that would reverse that effect and fade the yellow. Does something like that exist? I've read that using bleach is not a good idea.I'm considering sanding it at 220 grit—wise move? <Q> Sanding even with 220 grit requires feathering and also making sure you go to 600 grit or higher to match existing polish. <S> A product I use as a professional called diamond renew works wonders <S> it is acidic and it is similar to glass etching products. <S> It must be applied and removed in sections exactly as the instructions say. <S> As warning: it is a lot of physical work and it must be used across the entire surface after sanding. <S> It is a difficult process but renews the surface to a factory or near factory finish. <S> You must not let it dry on the marble or get into cracks as it will continue to eat in to the stone and create pits. <S> If after feather sanding the spot another option besides diamond renew you might try to buff the surface with rouge. <S> Use a variable speed buffer on low to medium speed with enough rouge to bring out the shine but not so much it leaves residue on the surface. <S> Start light and work up. <S> However diamond renew is my preference <S> it is just very difficult <S> and you should if possible practice on a piece of marble before you attack the counter top. <S> Lastly marble is not granite... <S> lemon juice can discolor marble and it scratches easily <S> so sand lightly ....if you are not sure how to feather sand do not attempt it until you understand it. <S> Also please remember products that claim are for both granite and marble should be used with caution. <S> I would recommend using an "ager" after you finish sanding and polishing...not a sealant. <A> Diluted muriatic acid 10% and water will take the sealer out but will also slightly etch the marble , you need to use gloves and have fresh air as the fumes can get quite strong. <S> Try it in a corner to verify you get the results you are looking for , you may need a stronger solution but don’t go above 30% with lots of fresh air. <S> Any place that sells pool supplies will carry muriatic acid and some home improvement stores. <S> It is regularly used to etch cement prior to sealing or painting. <S> as far as sanding I would use a much finer wet/dry paper minimum of 600 grit and 1000 or better for the finish pass with a dual action <S> sander.and finish with a polish compound <A> Tile Doctor has a tile and stone cleaner, any acid will damage your stone.
|
The solution might be a Stripper cleaner.
|
How can I use a 16A appliance in a UK 13A socket? I have recently moved from India to the UK and carried a Philips air fryer with me. The plug on this appliance is marked 16A 250V. Wattage is 1425. The UK house I have moved into has standard 13A sockets. Is there any way to use this appliance? Addition after reading your answers - thanks for the replies. seems like this appliance can be used after all. I'm not too comfortable cutting into the power cord and replacing the fused plug. Do you think this product will work? http://www.cableuniverse.co.uk/13a-16a-fly-lead-converter-13a-plug-to-16a-socket.html it says it's used for hooking up caravans to household mains but it seems the end purpose is the same i.e. plugging 16A into a 13A source? <Q> According to my calculator 1425 watts at 240V is 6 amps, well within the 13-amp limit. <S> Are the round-pin 16 amp plugs standard in kitchens in India? <S> If yes, that's probably why it has that particular connector. <S> You should be able to get a 13-amp fused plug at any hardware store. <A> I have recently moved from India to the UK and carried a Philips air fryer with me. <S> The plug on this appliance is marked 16A 250V. Wattage is 1425. <S> The marking on the plug is the current rating for the plug, not the current the appliance will draw. <S> 1425W is just under 6A <S> so it should be fine to use the appliance on a 13A UK socket. <S> Sometimes you do find appliances (especially ovens) that draw a bit more than 13A and can therefore be a PITA to connect safely in the UK <S> but it doesn't seem your case is one of them. <S> I'm not too comfortable cutting into the power cord and replacing the fused plug. <S> My advice would be to change the plug, it's really not <S> difficult and more plugs and sockets in the chain mean more things to go wrong. <S> Do you think this product will work? <S> http://www.cableuniverse.co.uk/13a-16a-fly-lead-converter-13a-plug-to-16a-socket.html <S> it says it's used for hooking up caravans to household mains <S> but it seems the end purpose is the same i.e. plugging 16A into a 13A source? <S> There are many different types of plug in the world. <S> Just because two plugs have the same current rating as each other does not mean they are compatible with each other. <S> The indian and south african 16A plugs are equivilent to the 15A BS546 plug 1 . <S> In this UK this plug is mostly used for stage lighting. <S> Stage lighting suppliers will be able to aupply an adaptor cable ( <S> http://shopwl.com/13a-to-15a-adapter/ ) <S> but they don't seem very cheap <S> (I did spot a used one on ebay for £5 <S> but I won't bother linking it because ebay links go stale really quickly). <S> Caravans use a totally different type of plug, the 16A blue IP44 single phase <S> IEC60309 connector (often reffered to be UK electricans as a "CEEFORM"). <S> For the beneit of other people reading this question note that the 16A "SCHUKO" plugs used in mainland Europe are different from both of the above types. <S> 1 <S> Similarly the indian and south african 6A plugs are equivilent to the 5A BS546 plug. <A> Fitting a plug to a appliance is simple, all you need is a screwdriver to remove the old plug unless it is a molded on item <S> then you just cut the old one off strip the wires to length and fit the new one. <S> My son at age 8 could do it with no problem. <S> Just because the old plug was <S> a 16 amp one does not mean you need a 16 amp supply. <S> If the device requires 1425 Watts on a 240 volt supply it would be using 6 amps. <S> In the UK we only use 240 volt 13 amp plugs and sockets no matter how much power is required, even a small led desk top light which uses 200 mW (0.2 watts) still uses a 13 amp plug. <S> The markings on the plugs are the maximum that the plug can handle. <S> The only other supply fitted in UK homes is a 30 amp supply for electric cookers and they have to be wired direct to the outlet without any plug or socket. <A> The best option would be to get a UK Kettle Cord, with the end to match your fryer. <S> I tried a number of searches for the Philips UK listed replacement power cord but no success. <S> I would expect it to be a common cord there. <S> Ah, for the UK we are speaking of the always popular B 1363 (World Plug Type G, Rated 13 Amps) <S> In India the Plug is the BS 546 (World Plug Type M, Rated 15 Amps) <S> Philips air fryer <S> 1425 Watts Global ( 6-6,5 Amps @ 220-240 Volts)
|
You want a World Plug Type G (Plug) to Type M (Socket) Adaptor, and it will be fine to use. The link is broken but a cable sold as an adpaptor for caravans is almost certainly NOT the correct adaptor for your needs.
|
How can I remove humidity from a room without a dehumidifier? I've noticed a problem in my apartment that returns every winter - I get mold around the windows. This year the cold weather came earlier than usual and the mold appeared quickly in great amounts, so I am looking for a way to at least reduce the thickness of it. My guess that the molds cause is the humid air would be the fact that very often I can see a condensation on the window, and, since the windows are plastic ones, I guess they don't "breathe" like the wooden ones would. I've heard about putting bowls of salt around by the windows that would attract the moisture, but some suggest other substances like silica gel since they absorb the moisture better. Problems I see with getting silica gel are that I'm not sure where to get it for starters, am not sure about the price - whether it wouldn't be too pricy and, since I own a cat, I don't want the little adventurer to try out new things to eat - how would I store it so it would do it's job and not harm my pet. I mentioned "without a dehumidifier" in my question title because buying one just isn't in my budget at the moment, so I'm looking for some temporary solutions right now. Any tips gladly appreciated. <Q> You can purhcase products such as DampRid . <S> It is availabe in various size packages and will work to passively dehumidify a space. <S> You do not want to use a fan or any active air mover to attempt to dry the window space. <S> This can enable the mold to spread to other areas. <S> Mold is dangerous to your health and this issue should be handled soon. <S> One point of concern is that the mold may be in the drywall surrounding the window. <S> The mold issue should be brought up to your building manager. <S> If they do not take corrective actions, you should speak to the local public health department. <A> This will greatly reduce the moisture in your apartment. <S> On warmer days it would also help to crack your windows open and get some cross ventilation for a while. <A> You can buy an air ioniser and purifier which they should be much cheaper and smaller than most dehumidifiers . <S> It reduces the level of humidity in the air. <S> Also it will remove pollutants from the air such as dust, mould, mildew, bacteria, viruses, fumes, fungus, pollen, odours, fibres, smoke, soot and other microscopic airborne particles. <S> In addition, pre-filters used to remove larger particles such as hair or fur before they arrive at the main filter (in your case, cat fur). <S> There are also ioniser air purifier bulbs which works in similar way. <S> It attract smoke, dust and other chemicals which settle on the bulbs. <A> Use sponges soak with salt water and let dry. <S> Then put sponges near windows which will absorb excess water. <S> It is old family trick we have used for many generations now. <A> This is the classic case of condensation problem. <S> My guess is that PVC windows haven't been placed on your building originally, but something you put recently. <S> The other problem (I'm guessing) is that you have no thermal insulation on outside walls or it poor. <S> All of this has contributed to your problem. <S> Also, like you said these windows don't act like wooden ones which add up to your problem. <S> Next thing fix the jambs (I'm guessing that they are faulty).Use Styrofoam 1-3cm thick. <S> Now, if you don't have thermal insulation on façade walls, and you can't afford to put it on whole façade or if you are living in a building, you can put some Styrofoam or something similar from the inside on these walls and then repaint the wall (not just repaint put whole preparation procedure).This should fix your problem. <S> Also, try to keep your windows opened as often as possible.
|
Your problem is probably caused by the steam from showering condensing on and around your windows. Firstly, remove the entire mold; use some chemicals to disinfect that area. Furthermore jambs around your windows are most probably faulty. I would recommend keeping the bathroom door closed while you shower and turning the exhaust fan on while you shower and for at least a half hour after. To find the source of the problem, you may try thermal imager (e.g. Flir One ) which can help you isolate places of possible cold leaks around the windows.
|
What could cause a Trane furnace to not start heating? I have a newer (2007?) Trane XL90 (model: tdx2b080a9422aa)forced air gas furnace. The problem I am having is the burner and fan will not start. The thermostat is set at 67 degrees and shows it is calling for heat but no heat. Noticed it started coming on and off intermittently over the last few days. I took a multimeter to the ignitor and its not reading ohms. Have not checked the flame sensor yet. Should I? Also the fan is on on the thermostat, however it will not start on the furnace. Is this a startup sequence issue? the fan should start first I believe. Any help would be greatly appreciated. <Q> I have the same issue... <S> I did the filter change, checked all the thermoswitches <S> then it worked for a few hours <S> then no heat LED flashing 4 times. <S> Then I measured the voltage from the 24V transformer and the voltage would vary from 11V to 19V max. <S> Replace transformer and furnace is working perfectly. <A> Yours may be different, but generally high temp limit switches <S> look like this: <S> Order <S> the correct replacement online <S> (if you can figure out the right one to get and have verified it has failed by testing for broken continuity) or take it to your local appliance parts supplier. <S> Bring the model number of your unit with. <S> "well 4 blinks is an open limit or roll out " <S> - Matthew <S> What else is on the same wire? <S> (test the other parts of the safety chain) <S> Roll out <S> switch : <S> "I replaced the batteries in the thermostat, even though it wasn't calling for new batteries and now it works". <A> My Trane XR90 gas furnace was not producing heat. <S> The red diagnostic light was blinking 4 times, which means "Open High Temperature Limit Device". <S> I did some analysis and found that I have two flexible condensate hoses that drain into two 3/4 PVC pipes. <S> These PVC pipes meet at a Y junction and drain into one PVC pipe that leads to the exterior. <S> The plumbers clay around one of the flexible hoses <S> was old and crumbling, allowing air to enter. <S> This was creating a backdraft, which prevented condensate from draining and causing a sensor to trip the unit. <S> As soon as I removed the old, crumbling clay and replaced it with new, pliable clay, the unit starting heating again. <S> Hope this helps someone. <A> It has been my experience that these units are very air filter sensitive, i.e. if dirty or the wrong filter merv rating is used they will go into a limited mode - - - try changing the filter to a Merv 8 and see if it fires up normally .....
|
After replacing a faulty ignitor, the elusive culprit for the OP was old batteries in the thermostat .
|
How can I get my gas fire pit to have a larger flame or better disperse heat? I currently have a gas (run from our house gas line) fire pit in my backyard. It is approximately 18" off the ground and the fire ring (relatively new) is 36" in diameter, filled with gravel at the bottom and lava rock on the top. (We are not able to lower the pit). During the fall, we are able to sit around it and feel quite warm. However, in colder temperatures, we have noticed that the heat does not get dispersed horizontally very well, because the heat is obviously straight going up. So, as one might expect, it gets a bit colder and people are less inclined to sit out in front. Overall, we are hoping to get more heat to the people sitting around the fire. Any suggestions on how we might get better heat? Would any of these help? Artificial Gas Logs? Use a different type of rock? Get a bigger flame somehow? (Bigger pipe?) Use a different fire ring? Different size? Any type of device we can use to circulate the heat? Thanks very much! <Q> We had a similar issue. <S> As you note, the heat rises and if you have a large stack of rock over the flames, the rock will redirect this convective heat through the rock and heat up the rock itself. <S> Once the stack of rock is heated (ours gets quite glowing red in the middle), it radiates the heat out to the sides (where people are sitting) quite effectively... much better than the flat layer of rock in the bottom of the fire pit. <S> Since most of the heat is in the middle of the ring, that is where you want your stack tallest since it will extract more useful heat that way. <S> The only thing you need to be careful of is the stack of rock tumbling down. <S> Fortunately, lava rock is quite porous and there is a lot of friction between two pieces. <S> You can easily stack the rock in an interlocking manner and test it but pulling or pushing to ensure that the stack is stable, and that red hot rock won't come tumbling out on you while the fire is going. <S> With heating and cooling, the rock will shift over time so it is best to inspect the stack periodically to make sure it stays stable. <S> Note, I'm talking about large size lava rock, not the stuff I see in your fire pit. <S> Something like what you see here: <A> Do not stack large gapped rocks too high because they can trap gas down in them and they will blow out when lighting it. <S> Nothing like real wood for heat. <A> That fire pit (if it is the one pictured) is not designed to put out a lot of heat—less than 15,000 Btu/hr. <S> Even if you somehow managed to double that, it would not be all effective at heating people near it unless an enclosure were built. <S> The output of these pits is little infrared (which is what is needed) but a fair amount of hot air, which just rises directly up and away. <S> Effective measures to make it more accessible are likely to be unacceptably dangerous: like building a deck around it so the fire pit is at floor level. <S> Even this would be unsatisfactorily chilly. <S> Consider the fire pit a pretty light and center of focus. <S> If you want effective warmth, get some patio heaters : <A> Soap stone is the best for radiating heat back to the sides. <S> It is used in pizza ovens. <S> Vermont Marble, Granite, and Soapstone sells what they call Hot Rocks, chunks of soapstone in different sizes. <S> This is what I use in my gas fire pit. <A> Get a glass wall around the hole and a broken glass top layer over the lava rock. <S> Keeps the area really warm. <S> I can use mine on low, and I feel the heat from 3 feet away.
|
The solution is to stack up larger chunks of lava rock into something that is vaguely pyramid shaped. If you want more heat then buy a patio heater , sink your gas pit in the ground and or use real wood.
|
How can I make an exterior door? I have a solid wood entry door installed by the previous owner of the house. However, it doesn't match the mid-century style of the house and it doesn't have any windows; making the front entryway very dark. I would like to go back to the style of the home without breaking the bank. I'm interested in a simple flush slab door in solid wood with a few narrow windows (lites). Like the door in the picture. I've looked at a few manufactures that make doors like this but the quotes I've got are all $1400-1700 range. This is quite a bit more than I was hoping to spend. I was wondering if there is a DIY solution. I'm going to be painting the door so I don't need a beautiful stain grade finish. Can I get a 1 3/4" thick plywood sheet cut to size, install hinges, bore holes for the handles and cut out squares to install the glass lites? If 1 3/4" plywood doesn't exist can I laminate two or three sheets of thinner together with screws and/or glue? The door is under a carport and we live in a relatively mild climate but it will be subjected to some rain/freezing so I wan't something that will survive. <Q> It is of course possible for an individual to make a door that provides a normal level of performance. <S> The probability that a person without knack for or reasonable experience performing finish carpentry is, however, rather low. <S> To perform to a normal level, a door needs to fit within a tight tolerance and maintain dimensional stability without twisting or warping. <S> Typically, doors which are not manufactured in a factory are fabricated in a professional carpenter's workshop. <S> It's not really a do <S> it yourselfer's project given the standard to that appears in the photograph. <S> As an alternative, a used doors from local building recyclers are a reasonable option if a person is patient and diligent. <A> Honestly, building an exterior door is not a DIY project. <S> It's more complex than you would think, especially if your planning on having it be lighted (with windows). <S> As for building it out of plywood, even if you had a way to press it up properly (a vacuum press) it would not stay flat long term. <S> Hands down your best bet is going to be finding an appropriate replacement at a salvage yard. <S> Even if you can't find one that's exactly the right size, it's possible to re-size a solid core door (within reason). <S> I bought both my front door and back entry door at our local building salvage yard for $45 each. <S> The front door was 3 panel with a leaded glass window <S> so it was a real find, but it just goes to show what you an find if you look. <S> Cheers! <A> This would be only moderately difficult to reproduce on your own: <S> Buy a slab exterior door. <S> This will be $200-300. <S> If you can't find it for that price, look harder. <S> Frame the door plus the left panel. <S> $50 Cut out panels in door (probably jigsaw). <S> Free <S> Hang door. <S> Free Add trim panels on outside surface. <S> Might need something custom unless you want some rather thick trim. <S> $50-150 Buy glass. <S> You can also have craigslist glass cut for you. <S> Most places would make these cuts for probably $60-100 total. <S> Probably double that to do it new, especially with frosted. <S> So you can get it as low as $350. <S> But you have to buy the door. <S> Unless you are a door maker or want to spend a year figuring out how to do it properly this part is non-negotiable. <S> (Also buy the time you figure out how to make a door right <S> , I am positive you will blow through more money on materials - not even counting your time)
|
Modifying an existing used door is another option that requires less specialized knowledge.
|
Do I have to worry about condensation on plywood over rigid foam insulation in the attic? I have a vented attic space with poor insulation in the attic floor and rafters, so I'm going to button it up. My energy auditor suggested I insulate the floor as follows: cut blocks of rigid foam for the ends of the joist bays, and tack them in place with spray foam. Then, fill the joist bays with loose cellulose, and top that with rigid foam (ISO) seam-sealed with spray foam. This should create the air and vapor barrier between the conditioned and unconditioned spaces. Finally, since I'd want to use it as storage space, I'd put plywood or OSB decking over the top. The rafters will be fiberglass bats (there are some in place that were improperly installed, but in good shape, so I want to reuse them) with the foil side facing towards the roof about 1" off the sheathing. I'll then staple FSK across the rafters with the foil facing in. I think I'm on board with everything, but I'm wondering about the decking and the FSK. Since the rigid will act as the vapor and air barrier between the conditioned and unconditioned space, do I have to worry about condensation forming on the decking? Is it really worth spending money on the FSK if the attic space is vented? I do have the ability to open and close the gable-end vents (the only active vents in the space). This house is in Seattle, built in 1925. <Q> I am sorry but this sounds like horrible advice. <S> Rigid or spray foam should not be used in large attics unless you just have money to burn. <S> For your $ fiberglass blown in insulation is perfect for your installation plus plywood. <S> (Fiberglass over cellulose since insects may love the coziness of the "wood boxes"). <S> Also in large attics you ONLY insulate near the top floor ceiling. <S> Insulating the roofline is useless. <A> What is your budget for the entire project and does it near the quote from a company willing to spray-foam the rafters? <S> Shove all the old insulation at hand into the floor cavities. <S> Deck over it ASAP <S> , so the workers don't damage your drywall by falling into a cavity. <S> The gable vents could be sealed and the attic can now be considered (somewhat) conditioned space. <S> Insulation does not go in backwards . <S> The vapor barrier goes on the heated side. <S> You should remove the face if you're going to fill behind with it. <A> I did some work in my cousins home, one project was improving his insulation in his attic. <S> He was already using it for storage and only had the 1960's version of insulation in place. <S> (R-8) <S> The plan included making a 8X12 storage platform and catwalk to his gable vents and HVAC unit. <S> Using a number of 2X8s <S> I crossed them over the existing joists <S> edgewise at 24" on center, the same way I would run the R-30 insulation that I added in the next step. <S> This is what I attached the 1/2" plywood to. <S> The 2X8s kept the deck from compressing the insulation. <S> I also attached the 2X8s with screws, because the hammering would otherwise knock loose the drywall on the ceiling, may be plaster in your case. <S> 23 <S> " X 40' +/- <S> unfaced rolls were brought in to do the job, since the existing had foil facing on it. <S> I set them on one end and sent them on their way to the other end unrolling as they went, using a 1X4 to adjust them in place. <S> With the rolls run the way they were, there is a complete blanket of insulation over the entire floor of the attic, only interrupted by the 2X8s in the area of storage.
|
Once the rafters are completely sealed with foam, the ceiling joists become less of an issue.
|
How can I prevent water from puddling on a shower ledge? I'm about to paint/re-caulk the walls above a fiberglass shower. There's a ledge that I'd just as soon eliminate by putting in something to slope and prevent water from puddling in the corner (shown in photo). What can I use to fill the void? <Q> Short of recasting the tub I can only think of one solution: Water always flows downhill, so if you can get some shims under that end of the tub to elevate it enough that water flows away from the wall you're set. <S> Otherwise invest in a squeegee and wipe the ledge diligently after using the shower. <A> You can buy some polyfill which is basically a two part epoxy used to replace coatings on surrounds and tubs. <S> It is pretty thick stuff <S> so you would be able to add it to this until you sloped away. <S> However I am not sure how much you can put on at once <S> (I have never tried beyond normal tub repair) and I am not sure how thick it can be in total. <A> As already stated, this is a problem with the mould and you cannot really correct it. <S> The only thing that i would try, is to chip away the existing silicon and cement around the corners of the ledge and then try to get something which you could use to pry the ledge upwards ever so slightly. <S> What I would use is some expanding foam, you will be surprised the force that it can apply (provided you can restrict the flow back out the sides of the ledge)
|
The other thing to try, is to build up those indented corners slightly so that there is a smooth transition to the wall, that way, at least the runoff water will push existing water off the ledge and will not pool in those sections.
|
Putting together a tool set for children 8-11 One of the many hats I wear is the hat of Bagheera, assistant cub scout leader. I'd like to introduce a project where we build a wooden tool box. But I'd also like to provide the cub scouts with a minimal set of tools they can take home. What would you suggest I shop for to make it actually useful? <Q> If I recall my time in the scouts well enough, I'd suggest the following: a set of screw drivers an 8-10oz hammer a set of pliers a small chunk from a bar of cheap soap for coating screw threads a piece of chalk- <S> both to use for marking things, but also to absorb moisture and prevent rust. <S> a small framing square <S> a retractable tape rule <S> If you shop around and hit discount stores, it's not an expensive proposition (in the US, I'd recommend Big Lots and Harbor Freight.) <A> I would suggest - to go along with TX's answer: <S> Magnetic stud finder (many uses and kids love playing with it - and educational) gloves safety glasses set of little screw drivers with mini plier (computer grade). <S> Kids have toys they can try to fix <S> and they will need smaller tools to start there and work their way to houses. <A> At around that age I got a premade toolbox at everybody's favorite radio parts / cell phone store (for $8 on clearance, when I came home with it <S> my mom gave me $16 and had me buy one for my brother) <S> , here's what was (going from memory) was in it: <S> Hammer Combo wire cutter/wire stripper/crimper Level Ratcheting screwdriver with a fairly wide assortment of bits (philips/flathead/torx/hex) <S> Miniature screwdriver set (two different sizes each of philips and flathead) <S> Adjustable wrench <S> Assorted wire connectors (included crimp-style and the twist-on style) <S> Wire cutter Exacto knife <S> I think that's everything, and was almost every tool I needed at that age (besides a soldering iron and related equipment) <A> I would add a small spirit level and maybe a cheap adjustable wrench too. <A> Echoing @DMoore, Safety glasses! <S> And don't forget to wear yours! <S> And get some spares/loners so that no one isn't wearing them. <S> Nails hardly ever hit the hammerer but often "squirt" sideways and get the kid sharing the work bench. <S> If this is just for carpentry Pencil. <S> (Carpenter's pencils are hard to sharpen. <S> I use "kids" pencils. <S> And they have erasers!) <S> Ruler. <S> Consider making it. <S> Just a stick with marks on it. <S> Square. <S> Make two; right-hand and left-hand. <S> Just two sticks and some glue. <S> Good intro to technique, too. <S> Short saw. <S> (A Japanese pull saw has both crosscut and rip blades, makes thinner kerfs, and cuts straighter.) <S> Hammer. <S> (Light hammers require higher speed and accuracy to sink the nail. <S> Heavy hammers are easier to use.) <S> Some nails! <S> Little (9mm) <S> LOCKING utility knife. <S> Make sure what ever you get will all fit in the toolbox and you can build anything. <A> Actually useful tools are the ones that are (expensive) well made. <S> It's not very fun when the handle breaks; cheap tools can be dangerous. <S> If they are responsible, they may own some of these tools for the rest of their lives. <S> I'd suggest a minimalist approach to mitigate budget concerns. <S> Though it would be a great addition that could add some random hex, torx, sockets, ect. <S> An adjustable wrench would be nice but not crucial if you have pliers. <S> A bit kit may actually be the most useful thing to them at this time , for taking toys apart, changing batteries and whatnot; kid stuff. <S> As a child I received a cheap tool box, mostly geared towards woodworking; it was (and would still be) useless to me. <A> My 7 yr old grandson helped me put together a new bball goal. <S> and he had no problem, and enjoyed, using a socket wrench set.
|
They need a hammer that the head won't fly-off of, needle nose and slip-joint pliers, a quality tape measure and screwdrivers; not a bit kit. Focus on items that will stand the test of time and be useful for the duration.
|
What are these male sockets called, and what are they used for? This has taken me an embarrassingly long time to figure out, but how the heck do male sockets work? Or, what are these different tools called ? A socket wrench is usually male. A socket usually has two female ends: But I also have some of these male sockets. It also looks like socket extensions suffer from the same problem: Are there female socket wrenches? How would I know which type I need? Or, for the real-world example that actually inspired this question: (ignore the fact that those are flex-sockets) <Q> Hex shank to square drive adapter <S> This bit is a hex shank to square drive adapter, which allows you to use square drive bits with a drill/driver. <S> Hex shank socket <S> The second set of tools is hard to tell for sure what it is. <S> If the sliver bit at the bottom has a hexagonal cutout in it, then they are hex shank sockets. <S> If that's what they are, they allow you to drive hex bolts/nuts using a drill/driver. <S> Square drive hex (allen) <S> key <S> If the silver bit at the bottom of the second set of bits is square, then they are square drive hex (allen) keys. <S> In this case, they allow you to drive hex/allen bolts using a square drive tool. <S> Hex shank sockets <S> These are defiantly hex shank sockets. <S> They have a hexagonal shank, and a hexagonal hole at the other end. <S> They allow you to drive nuts/bolts using a drill/driver. <S> Flexible (Jointed) sockets <S> These appear to be flexible (jointed) sockets. <S> They should have a square hole at one end, and a hexagonal hole at the other. <S> They allow you to drive nuts/bots with a square drive tool. <A> In this picture: The top bit is for driving sockets with, for example, a power drill. <S> The bottom bits are for turning allen screws with a socket wrench. <S> Such as this: <A> The one you have that is matte silver is meant to go into a hand turning ratchet (looks like a screw driver, but <S> with a female side) or most likely a drill so you can use the sockets on there. <S> Hand turning ratchet: <S> The line below that looks like Allen wrenches for your socket wrench. <A> Yes, variously over the years, there have been female ratchet wrenches produced. <S> The idea is that the male driven socket is tubular, removing the need for deep well, standard and shallow sockets. <S> Plus the drive head is closer to the nut putting more twisting force on it instead of tipping off like a deep well socket will do when trying to turn it. <S> Originally, these were produced as car alignment tools through companies like Snap-On as some of the link bolts were essentially threaded rods that could be longer than available deep well sockets, likewise some of the shock absorbers used long threaded rod ends. <S> They've also been available in construction where threaded rod is used and you want a faster, more sure way of installing nuts than using a wrench. <S> One example of the technology. <S> Note that second from left, top row is a locking male square drive adapter for standard square drive sockets. <S> Another, Craftsman Max Axess with fits-all spline drive (hex, square, 12-point, spline, torx). <S> You can get the matching power ratchet from them. <S> They don't tend to catch on for general use as you can't just pick up a standard ratchet, tee handle, L-bar, torque wrench, speed driver or extension and use them, plus finding an air ratchet to drive them is impossible unless provided by the manufacturer <S> and you're just not going to be using them on an impact wrench. <A> As others have noted. <S> What you are looking at is not a socket extension. <S> Here is what you are looking for:
|
The name is pass-through socket set if you're trying to search for them.
|
Where's the C terminal on my boiler control? The new thermostat I purchased doesn't run on batteries, and needs 24 volt power. I have only a red and a white wire connected between the boiler and the thermostat, but there is also a third, unused wire. The instructions from the thermostat say to hook that third wire to the C terminal on thermostat and to the furnace's C, but I have a boiler with no C. Where do I put it on here? Please help I'm desperate. <Q> The transformer is likely soldered directly to the board; so unless you're good with a solder gun, you're going to have to buy a different thermostat. <S> The white wire attached to the T terminal, should be connected to the W terminal of the thermostat. <S> When the thermostat calls for heat, it will connect the R terminal to the W terminal. <S> This will cause the coil to pull a switch closed (relay), which tells the boiler that the thermostat is cold. <S> If you're not afraid to potentially break things, and you really want to try to get the new thermostat working. <S> You could try to add your own C wire. <S> You'll simply have to connect the new C wire, to the other lead of the secondary coil of the transformer. <S> Left image shows original wiring. <S> Right image shows where the C terminal should be added. <S> WARNING: <S> Modifying the wiring of the Aquastat will likely void the warranty, and could potentially damage the equipment. <S> Proceed at your own risk. <A> If those red and white wires are wired correctly, the +24v 'R' terminal should be the red wire in the upper right, that is under the 'T' screw. <S> Do NOT mess with either of the (12g) wires in the upper left, under the L1 and L2 terminals. <S> Shut the power off to the unit before you go poking around in there. <S> The C terminal you're after does not seem to be user accessible; it would be one of the solder joints on the back of the circuit board the transformer is mounted to, as old boiler controls weren't designed to supply auxiliary 24v power. <S> I'd have to ask if it is OK to achieve a low voltage ground by attaching it to the control box with a screw. <S> I lack the experience necessary (and the schematic/number for this control) to even attempt to say one of the other terminals on it might work for you, safely. <S> This doesn't make any sense to me, the thermostat just shorts out the transformer after it goes through a resistor. <S> (top left) <S> Source of the picture and some good boiler talk. <S> The manual for a L8124A. <A> For T-T connections you need to wire an isolation relay! <S> See <S> https://youtu.be/f0v3FeDZBeY <S> If you do not have an exposed 24VAC transformer, you'll need to buy one as well as a 24VAC relay ( http://a.co/d/aI6iRva ). <S> Connect the transformer load to Rh, the transformer common to C, and the W wire to the relay coil control pole. <S> Connect the other control pole back to the common on the transformer. <S> Then connect the T-T terminals to the normally open poles on the relay!
|
The red wire attached to the T terminal, should be connected to the R terminal of the thermostat. Unfortunately, the Aquastat you're using does not expose a C terminal.
|
What type of refrigeration is recommend in a cabin with sub-freezing temperatures? In the winter the indoor temperatures in our cabin often reach as low as 10° F (-12° C). We had an old refrigerator that worked just fine in these circumstances, but when we purchased a new refrigerator it failed even after multiple repairs. Upon reading the manual I discovered that it is only designed for operation in temperatures above 55° F (13° C). Now we need to find a working refrigerator before winter. Preferably we would like one that maintains the correct temperature in the presence of extreme cold. Barring that, we would take something that just doesn't break when it gets too cold. RepairClinic , among others, seems to indicate that refrigerators just won't work at this temperature because of premature compressor failure: ...if you live in a region in which the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius), this is not a good idea. Such temperatures could cause the oil in the compressor to thicken, leading to premature compressor failure or other issues. Also, refrigerator/freezer units often won’t keep food frozen when the temperature of the garage drops below 35 degrees Fahrenheit Anecdotal experience seems to contradict this, saying that it will work in the winter: Unless you live someplace REALLY cold (and by REALLY cold, I mean close to the arctic circle cold, not "it sometimes snows here in february" cold), a fridge in an unheated garage is fine. Really. Me and everyone I know has a fridge in our garages, and nobody I know has every had a problem with things freezing. The refrigerator before our most recently broken one worked just fine for several years, so that one is a point in favor of "they will just work." Meaning, the fridge didn't completely fail - even if it didn't maintain the right temperatures during the winter. I have only been able to find one refrigerator that advertises the ability to work in cold temperatures: The Gladiator . My only concern is it appears 3 inches too tall for our cabin. It seems that as long as the refrigerator won't fail, this device can solve the problem of the freezer not working in the 32-50° F range. But how can I make sure the refrigerator doesn't fail? Has anybody else had to deal with this problem? <Q> You may be able to use a propane or natural gas powered fridge. <S> They have no moving parts that would break; in the extreme cold, I'd imagine that only the pilot light would be on. <S> I've stayed in a cabin that had one of these that was regularly exposed to -25 F, and it lasted for 40+ years. <S> http://home.howstuffworks.com/refrigerator5.htm <A> I don't see how a fridge could keep food above 32º in sub-freezing temperatures unless it was specifically designed for that and has a heater. <S> I assume that's how "The Gladiator" works? <S> Frankly I don't believe that forum where someone claims stuff won't freeze. <S> Maybe if it just dips below freezing for a few hours overnight, but long term there's just no way. <S> It looks like "The Gladiator" has detachable casters, maybe you can remove them to get back a few extra inches of height? <A> That will prevent it from running when the temp is so low it could damage the frig. <S> Something like this: <S> Wiring diagram: <S> It's good for 10 amps which should be plenty for a frig. <S> $18 on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-All-purpose-Temperature-Controller-STC-1000/dp/B00862G3TQ <S> That won't prevent everything from freezing if the cabin is 10, but will save the frig. <S> This also has the advantage that when the temp goes back up, the frig resumes normal operation. <S> Said another way, this is like unplugging the frig, but plugging it back in so the meat won't spoil when the temp gets too high.
|
Another option is an inline thermostat that will literally cut off all power to the frig once the temp drops below a certain point.
|
What is a line to neutral load? I'm looking at the electrical code and it states "Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads." Could someone explain what line-to-neutral loads are? <Q> A multi wire branch has a neutral and 2 lives in opposite phase. <S> What the code says is that you may only allow loads connected to only 1 live and neutral (V1 and V2 in the picture) and you are not allowed to have a live to live load (V1+V2) (which would have double voltage). <A> This is also an unnecessary line in the code. <S> Here is the text: (C) Line-to-Neutral Loads. <S> Multiwire branch circuits shall supply only line-to-neutral loads. <S> Exception <S> No. <S> 1: A multiwire branch circuit that supplies only one utilization equipment. <S> Exception <S> No. 2: Where all ungrounded conductors of the multiwire branch circuit are opened simultaneously by the branch-circuit overcurrent device. <S> * <S> See exception 2? <S> This says you can also supply line to line loads if "all ungrounded conductors of the multiwirebranch circuit are opened simultaneously". <S> Thing is, in 210.4(B) it already tells us: (B) Disconnecting Means. <S> Each multiwire branch circuit shall be provided with a means that will simultaneously disconnect all ungrounded conductors at the point where the branch circuit originates. <S> * <S> So basically (C) is an unneeded section. <A> Line to neutral loads are loads that require a path for electricity to come back to its source. <S> It carries the unbalance provided by the "hot" wire back to the panel so it can provide electricity continuously to whatever needs it. <S> Your oven circuit (240 v line to line) would not be a line to neutral load, generally. <S> It only consumes power to do its job. <S> Although, ranges nowadays are more than likely to have electronics like a clock or timer function in which cases they would be both 120/240 circuits
|
An outlet circuit (120 v line to neutral) in your house for example is a line to neutral load.
|
Is it safe to use barn wood indoors for furniture, trim, walls and ceilings? I am renovating a farm house built in the late 1800's. I am planning on tearing down the barn from the same era and using some of the wood to finish trim etc. I believe the moisture content is good 7 to 12%. I'm most concerned about bugs. The area is south-western Ontario. <Q> Working with reclaimed wood presents a few unique challenges and concerns. <S> It sounds like you're going to be using your stock in its raw form <S> so I won't get into milling etc. <S> The first thing to watch out for is dust. <S> Barn wood is impregnated with all sorts of nasty stuff including molds and animal dander (a carrier of tetanus). <S> Dust masks are an absolute must and take special care to clean out any wounds and splinters you acquire because they will often get infected. <S> Another issue is imbedded foreign objects. <S> Hitting an old bolt with a skill saw is as dangerous to you as it is to your blade. <S> Pick up a metal detecting wand ($40) and go over your parts before you make any cuts, you'll be amazed at the variety of shrapnel you collect. <S> Finally, finishing reclaimed wood is its own bag of problems. <S> Most protective finishes don't really like to be applied over top of dirt and contaminates so be sure to start by wire brushing out the worst of the gunk and then apply a good sealer coat before finishing, or better yet use a penetrating oil like Penofin for a more natural look. <S> Note that any finish will change the color of your patina. <S> As far as insects are concerned, there is a spray that can be applied to the stock that can mitigate or eliminate the threat of transporting them into your house <S> but it's probably best left to a professional to handle it. <S> If you don't see any signs of activity (holes, larvae, etc. ) <S> you might not have anything to worry about. <A> There are businesses which specialize in the identification and treatment of termite infestation in most areas where termites are common. <S> It would be prudent to consult with such a company if termites are a reasonable concern. <S> Otherwise, suitability comes down to a question of species and quality of the specific pieces on one side and the applications for which they are intended and the finishes desired on the other. <A> Put bowls of ammonia in bowls or cans around the wood and then tarp the bowls and the wood <S> so they are sealed up together for five days. <S> When you untarp the bowls of ammonia and wood, all the bugs that might be in the wood are driven out of the wood and they die. <S> I did this with a big ponderosa pine table. <S> I did have a few pine beetles come out, even after that wood had been cut, milled and stored for a couple of years. <S> So that was what I was told to do. <S> Anyway, it works great for killing off boring bugs. <A> Why tear down the barn? <S> Either way, old sun-bleached barn wood can be impressive without any finish, especially if it's a hardwood like Oak. <S> Powder post beetle holes can also add a distinct character to the wood. <S> If there is active bug activity, they will soon die off. <S> Most wood-eating pests require a source for water and if you dry the wood thoroughly they will either die off or find a more favorable environment.
|
Termites would be the most serious construction risk factor.
|
How to improve the drainage of a patio with 6"x6"x39" cement blocks used for edging? The patio looks like in the picture. I have no idea if this is standard practice but it looks dumb to me. There is a very small space between blocks and that is filled with dirt. Virtually the patio holds the water in heavy rain when the runn off water should go over the edge of a graded patio. I am wondering what would be the best way to improve the situation. I am thinking about drilling holes like below, one per block. I have no idea how easy it is. The other option would be to enlarge the spaces between the blocks.The cement blocks are beveled, the maximum diameter of a hole can be 0.5" <Q> Drain holes aren't a practical solution here. <S> If you insist on drilling them, you'll need a high powered impact drill with a concrete bit, then you either have to dig a trench on the outside to get the drill positioned parallel to the ground or pry up the concrete <S> so you can drill above ground. <S> At that point, you're still going to have a maintenance chore as those holes will clog up. <S> In the winter, they may fill with water, freeze, and crack the concrete. <S> As such, I'd highly recommend just getting rid of the concrete. <S> It's a poor design to begin with. <S> Not sure what the original builder was thinking by putting that lip on it. <S> Unless maybe the goal was to use it as an ice rink in the winter? :) <S> You may have to dig a dry well or something to accept that amount of concentrated water, though. <S> I think it'd be better to remove them all instead. <A> One easy solution is to rent a grinder, and a diamond blade, and cut (from the top) channels into the slab (where your drill holes are positioned). <S> then you can insert your runoff pipes and then fill the holes with fresh cement. <S> Unfortunately, I don't see any practical way to drill at the angles which you propose, you will have to remove paving and create space to drill at those angles. <A> Firstly, there should be a way for the water to runoff OR drain. <S> So, you could either raise the brick so that it is slightly above the cement block OR remove some brick where the water collects and install a catch basin that carries the water away from the patio (at a pitch/angle away from patio of course).
|
As it's not a monolithic slab of concrete, but in separate blocks/pieces, you may get away with just removing a couple piece at the low end of the patio to act as a funnel to allow the water to run off from that one spot.
|
Can an electrical junction box be closed and covered if not needed? Can an octagon fixture box that was also found to be a junction box, be closed and covered over in the ceiling after remodeling. Box not needed. <Q> Absolutely not. <S> Any box containing splices or live wires, even if it's not being used, must remain accessible. <A> As long as there are no cables in it, you can rip it out or cover it. <S> If there are cables in it, you can't. <A> An alternative, if there is access to the box from above via a crawlspace or attic, would be to replace or re-orient the box so that access is provided from above. <S> Depending on your local code, you may be able to use one of these new type splice units, and eliminate the junction box. <S> These are available at home centers and electrical supply houses, one brand is Tyco. <S> Ask for a in-wall romex splice kit. <A> Listen to the first answer it is never permissible to cover(hide) <S> a junction box behind anything. <S> God Bless Big Jim
|
You state that the "box is not needed"; I presume you mean not needed for the fixture but that the wire connections originally present still remain. Then you could cover the hole in the ceiling. If that is the case then you cannot bury it.
|
Should I use MDF, plywood, or something else when building a desk? I'm looking at building a desk but have been reading a lot of conflicting info about which material to use. My main concern is having the desk sag at all. I will also be painting/coloring the desk. Which material is stronger while bearing weight? Which would be the best choice for building a desk without sag? <Q> Any sheet goods are going to be lacking in strength in terms of deflection so your construction will have to compensate for this. <S> You'll want to create rigidity using geometry of some kind like this torsion box or maybe by adding solid wood stretchers and aprons. <S> As far as materials go, I'd be partial to MDO for a project like this <S> but here's your options. <S> Plywood is the strongest of the sheet goods and takes mechanical fasteners by far the best. <S> But it's either a terrible surface to paint (if you get construction grade) or too nice/expensive to cover up (if you get cabinet grade). <S> MDF paints well but is monstrously heavy, is the most prone to sagging, and will not take fasteners in its edges. <S> Particle board is inexpensive but it's flimsy and is almost impossible to seal up well enough to protect it from water damage unless you cover it with laminate <S> but then you've just got a counter-top. <S> Melamine has an durable, stain proof film on both faces <S> but as such it cannot be painted. <S> It's also susceptible to water damage as it's just particle board in the center. <S> MDO is a sheet of plywood covered in a thin layer of MDf. <S> This gives it the strength and versatility of plywood while keeping the weight down, but it also takes paint just like MDF. <S> It's only draw back <S> is that the edges are not finish grade in the traditional sense so they'll need to be banded or captured in some fashion, and it's a bit more pricey than MDF or CDX. <A> All wood sags. <S> How much depends on the type of wood, the dimensions and the weight that will be put on it. <S> The addition of an edge strip helps reduce sag considerably. <S> Check out WoodBin's Sagulator which can estimate the amount of sag given your exact conditions using different materials. <A> OSB takes forever to sand smooth enough for a desk. <S> You can plywood with one side smooth for not too much more money. <S> Without a really good sander and patience, you won't be happy with the splintery OSB as a desk surface. <S> Another option is laminated pine. <S> I've built some cheap desks out of it with good results. <S> Experience: <S> I've built some desks and platform beds and cabinets and stuff. <S> Not a real carpenter. <A> Which material is stronger while bearing weight? <S> MDF will crack in half while plywood would still just deflect. <S> Which would be the best choice for building a desk without sag? <S> "Other". <S> DMoore knows what's up; solid hardwood.
|
My vote is plywood, for that reason alone. Generally particle sags more than MDF, MDF sags more than OSB, OSB sags more than Plywood.
|
Where to get the semi gloss black paper that is used to cover particle board furniture So, I have a cheepo corner computer desk that has served me well over the years. To accommodate a gaming keypad, I widened the keyboard tray. I made the new tray out of particle board and it's shape isn't bad, unfortunately it's uncovered and could look better. If possible, I'd like to use the same type of paper they used for the desk, or something similar if I could find it. Problem is, I have no idea of where to find it, or even what the technical term for it is. The stuff on the furniture doesn't even try to look like wood, it's just a semi glossy black material. It's very thin, and tends to peel of when wet. If anyone knows what this is called, or where I could get some, i'd greatly appreciate it. <Q> Most factory furniture is covered in a thermal foil resin paper. <S> It's not something you can purchase or work with as a consumer. <S> You could probably make a pretty close match by covering the piece with some matte black laminate which is pretty easy to work with and will hold up much better than the desk itself. <S> A counter top maker would probably sell you a remnant on the cheap. <A> Placed over a coat of semi-gloss black paint , which doesn't tend to peel off when wet. <A> You can do something similar using paint, possibly even spray paint. <S> Use a primer first, possibly two coats if it's soaking in. <S> Then a couple coats of black, sanding with a very fine (eg 400 grit) sandpaper in between. <S> Finally, use a clear coat gloss layer or two, again, with very fine (800 grit) sanding between coats. <S> I've done this for a couple small-ish projects, but I'm far from an expert at it (and I may have gotten the sand paper grits to use wrong -- please correct me if so). <S> Biggest thing is it takes some patience.. <S> don't rush it, and realize it won't look right after the first (and maybe second) coat. <S> Thin, even layers are key.
|
Other suggestion; drawer liner (should be available locally). I'd recommend picking up a pack of a few different types, as what works best may depend on the material and paint you use.
|
Why is this light fixture with 3 bulbs giving me so much trouble? I have a light bulb fixture on the ceiling in one room of my house that holds 3 bulbs. The previous owner installed it to make the room extra bright, for certain work and tasks to be done here, that simply require a bright environment. I used to put in 75 - 100 watt incandescent bulbs in the fixture. Most of the time though one of the three bulbs would burn out super fast (like within months if not weeks... I got tired of changing them all the time, especially because its such an ordeal with the big, heavy, decorative screw-on glass cover mounted to the fixture). Burned out bulbs would leave the room unevenly lit, and generally not bright enough. At the same time though 3 100W bulbs were kind of making you squint a bit, because it was SO bright... I wanna say 2 years ago, maybe 1.5 years ago I saw some 60W-equivalent CFL bulbs on sale and bought a package. I used 3 of those in this fixture, and TADA! No more burned out bulbs since then, and generally perfect lighting conditions (except for the first minute when you turn them on, but oh well...) It's been going good for probably a year or longer. About 3 months ago I noticed that one of the CFL bulbs was making a buzzing noise. I changed it with a newer bulb and that fixed the problem, I figured the bulb might have had a factory defect, as they are supposed to last 10 years. This morning I noticed that the light is making a buzzing noise again! Haven't been able to check which bulb it is, but come on! What am I doing wrong, what can I do to prevent this from happening to the bulbs? I find the noise not only annoying but I am also concerned about safety: I had installed one of the bulbs in a fixture in the basement once, and while I was down there I noticed that the light started buzzing, then flickering. When I looked I saw it was practically burning on the base/ballast. I turned the switch off immediately and the flames stopped... Hasn't happened with any of the other bulbs since then (I bought 2 packages of 8, one of which I didn't need to open yet). Again I assumed at the time it was a defect with one of the bulbs. Is there anything I need to be aware of regarding lighting? I figured each fixture has 120V on it, so it shouldn't matter what bulb you put in, should it? Oh, and these are no dimmable lights. EDIT: It took me forever, but here is finally a picture of my setup I don't see why there would be any heat issues arising, especially since the fluorescent bulbs don't get hot... <Q> Do you have a picture of the cover? <S> It seems very likely that all your problem simply relate to an overheating. <S> Is there a chance for a better air flow (thermal ventilation)? <A> It could be that the tab at the center of one of the light sockets is not making adequate contact and this is producing an arc between the tab and the bulb. <S> Try bending the tab out toward the bulb and screw the bulb back in so proper contact is made. <A> CFLs vary greatly in quality and lifetime. <S> Almost all are overseas products, so you're depending on the marketing company to enforce the quality control at the factory. <S> Stay with Sylvania or Phillips. <S> Stay away from brands you've never heard of. <S> Even in that case, the ballasts on CFLs can be flaky. <S> @Grant has a good suggestion. <S> And that 10-year lifetime depends greatly on the duty cycle. <S> 10 years is for 3-4 hours per day without multiple on-off cycles. <S> Rapid on-off cycling can reduce lifetime greatly.
|
Some will last years and others will last an hour before they start popping and flickering. Overheating and premature failure might result.
|
Why is my power flickering across multiple circuits? I woke up this morning and went downstairs to find that none of the lights would come on (lights were working fine upstairs). My first instinct was thinking that a breaker had tripped, so I went to the breaker box and checked everything. Nothing out of order. I started investigating a little bit more and discovered that the power was not actually out... just flickering. If I turned on lights, they would occasionally flick and try to come on and then go back out. The dishwasher kept clicking like a relay was opening and shutting continuously. I went downstairs to discover that the fan for the heat kept trying to spin up and then dying. My second hypothesis was a simple loose wire at a switch or outlet... but that can't be the problem either. The problem is affecting about 50% of the circuits in the house, seemingly at random. Fridge works, range is out. Basement lights are fine, basement sockets are dead. Etc. A loose wire would only affect one circuit. I killed power to everything but the fridge to prevent damage and went to work. I plan to take a look again when I get home. Any ideas what may be going on? Things that might be related or might be a complete coincidence: We recently (work finished a week ago) had a deck put on. This required an electrician to move an indoor outlet, add an outdoor outlet and light, and install a switch for the outdoor light. It also just got cold enough for us to turn the heat on. Last night was the second night it was on this year. When I got up, it was 63 degrees in the house because the heat could not actually turn on. <Q> Sounds like a classic compromised leg of your main service. <S> IMO this is NOT something for a DIY to troubleshoot since you would need to be testing live unfused wires in places that are inaccessible to a homeowner, such as inside the meter pan. <S> I would start with calling your utility and explaining to them the issue. <S> If they find no problem call an electrician to check the equipment in your house. <A> This pops up most commonly when the temperatures outside start to change and cause the wires to contract or expand. <S> The power coming in to your house is normally fed by two separate wires, if one of these has become loose, you will see issues on about half the circuits in the house. <A> Since it became cold enough for you to turn on your heat last night, other people probably did the same thing. <S> This can result in brownouts, greyouts, and blackouts within the utility company's service area. <S> In the US, this is less common than other parts of the world, but still happens from time to time. <S> I'm not saying this is the cause, but it could also produce the symptoms described. <S> The deck addition is likely to have produced immediate problems and those problems are likely to be more localized.
|
This problem could be anywhere from the connections at the utility transformer on the pole, to the connection taps on the side of the house, to the meter pan, to the main breaker. This is definitely an issue with one of the legs of your main service. This means a surge in load on your utility company's entire grid...and the grids it connects to.
|
How can I extract a broken off 1/2 inch threaded galvanized pipe? Looking for options on removing a 1/2 inch threaded galvanized pipe broken off with about a third of an inch of it still inside the hole. <Q> Screw Extractor: ( cromwell.co.uk , #3 is what you need, <S> I think. <S> Finding them at a real store and comparing actual sizes might help) For larger sizes, use an Internal Pipe Wrench: ( plumbingsupply.com) <A> Mazura's answer describes the best solutions. <S> (Be very careful to avoid cutting into the intact portion of the pipe!) <S> Then take a rubber mallet and use it to tap the blade of a stout flat-bladed screwdriver against the protruding lip of the broken pipe next to the channel you have cut, so that the cut edge of the pipe you were sawing is pushed a little way into the void. <S> This should loosen the pipe fragment from the thread of the intact pipe, and also create enough room to allow you to grip the broken bit of pipe with some needle-nosed pliers and then work it free. <A> FYI: <S> A neighbor (in the physical world) wondered by and had the perfect tool. <S> Expanded details: <S> https://ello.co/cwhii/post/W6vBG5nnYlOSFK6ciW0SBw <A> I had this problem today. <S> 1/2 <S> " of 1/2" thread left inside the pipe. <S> Logic said that if the tap was that rotten then the remaining piece in the pipe would be the same or worse. <S> It had snapped off flush so <S> no edge to work on. <S> Where I could see the join I placed the very corner tip of a coal chisel on it and gave a gentle tap. <S> It shattered! <S> Job done The moral being that "It don´t take a sledge hammer to crack a nut"!
|
But if there really is only 0.33" inside the pipe and part of the broken pipe remnant is protruding from the intact pipe, you might be able to manage without special tools if you take a slim metal-cutting hacksaw blade and carefully saw a channel all the way through the wall of the pipe fragment, parallel to the direction of the pipe.
|
How do I hang drywall where the wood is uneven? I need to hang some drywall; my ceiling has a couple spots of uneven-ness. There's a few spots that are about 1/4" out of whack and another spot where joists+hanger are a little less than 1/2" down. It's a normal sized room and the spots that are either bulging or sunken are all located in the same area. I am wondering if that warrants furring out the ceiling or will the drywall flex enough where there's a half an inch level difference? <Q> Went through this recently myself. <S> I'd try to limit the joist-to-joist out-of-flatness to 1/8" or less. <S> If it's an obvious part of the ceiling, try for 1/16". <S> Get a long straightedge and a pile of drywall shims . <S> I attach the shims with staples, but many people like to glue ceiling wallboard in place, to prevent dimples at the screws/nails in the future. <S> If this includes you, then the shims should also be securely glued. <S> Once you get the drywall up <S> you can <S> somewhat correct ridges and valleys with a repeated skim coats of joint compound. <S> However, it's difficult, messy, and much easier to fix the framing first. <S> 36 <S> " Drywall Shims: ( menards.com ) <A> That's a good option if you only have a few bad joists. <S> Pay extra attention to the joints in the drywall to make sure everything ends in the middle of a joist. <S> You may end up adding a few extra 2x4's in some places just for nailers. <S> If you don't have the room beside the joists, or you have lots of problem areas, then strapping also works, run perpendicular to the joists and individually shimmed to the proper height. <A> Since your ceiling is so uneven, I would recommend installing furring strips approximately 16" on center perpendicular to the ceiling joists across the entire ceiling. <S> I would also install them around the perimeter of the room. <S> This will even out the waves in the ceiling, and the ceiling will appear to be perfectly flat. <S> If you need to, you can shim behind the furring strip to level it up. <S> It also has the added bonus of allowing you to run wires behind the drywall after it is installed. <S> EDIT: You can also refer to this question for more tips. <S> What is the best method of hanging drywall on ceiling?
|
If you have space, you can sister a straight 2x4 along side the joists at the proper height and attach the drywall to the 2x4. Low joists require you to build up the adjacent joists gradually over a few joists to meet that 1/8" (or 1/16"). High joists are pretty easy: add shims to bring them down to flat with the others.
|
How can I secure an outwardly opening front door without damaging anything? This is a rented house in Japan (single room). It has an outwardly opening front door. The resident (a single woman) has fear of intruder breaking in. Also, damaging/modifying the door or the wall is not welcomed and makes thing complicated. How can she reinforce her front door in this situation? I recently heard her story and found this video SWATLOC-Introduction , it looks good, but I can't find actual buying information for the product. <Q> Sample image from Home Depot, no product or vendor affiliation <S> The small stud protruding between the middle screw holes prevents the door from being removed from the hinge while the door is closed. <S> You can create a similar result with a DIY solution by placing a long screw or lag bolt in the door frame that is left protruding almost 1/2" near each hinge. <S> And on the door, drill a small hole to receive the screw head. <S> It wouldn't hurt to cover that hole with a deadbolt strike plate to make it more difficult to force the door off and give it a more finished look. <S> These options are both on the hinge side of the door and have no need to install/remove as you use them. <S> Most property owners wouldn't have a problem having something like this installed since you're securing their home. <A> The original person has probably moved from japan <S> but it's still a valid question. <S> Either buy or make a screw or stud yourself, don't rely on that little punch out thing on the so-called stud hinges. <S> To make a screw, take out one screw, put one in twice as long leaving half sticking out, cut off the head, then either remove the facing screw or if not aligned drill a hole <S> so when the door closes the sticking out part goes into the hole. <S> Or you can buy headless screws made for that purpose, just search for "security stud for hinge". <S> Do that for each hinge and the door can't be lifted or shifted over. <S> Just make sure your lock and jamb are sturdy or <S> it's all for naught since a well placed boot could splinter a cheap door. <S> Granted, it's much easier to splinter an inward opening door. <S> Pay no attention to the full-light glass, surely nobody would break that... <A> I have an outswinging entryway door where I live in a studio cottage. <S> As long as the door does not have glass on the lower 2/3rds of the door, they are really very secure doors. <S> No one can kick them in when closed. <S> The first thing you need to do is make sure you have security hinges <S> so no one can just come along and take out the hinge pin and remove the door. <S> There's a few different types- 1) <S> "Setscrew" hinges: you can buy or diy. <S> These have a screw that goes through the pin <S> so it can not be removed <S> 2) <S> Stud Hinges that have a metal rod on each side of the hinge plate that sticks out and goes into a hole on the opposite plate. <S> The pin can be removed <S> but then there is no way to remove the door from the frame when in the closed position. <S> 3)Security hinges work the same way that stud hinges work but instead of a rod, there is a metal tab that sticks out so again pin can be removed <S> but then there is no way to remove the door from the frame when in the closed position. <A> You can use a CinchLock temporary door lock for outward opening doors. <S> http://www.cinchlock.com . <S> They are designed for use on outward opening doors and are manufactured in California. <S> Easy to install and remove. <S> Standard width is 44" long.
|
For outward opening doors that need security against having the hinge pin removed, you can get hinges with a security stud in the hinge.
|
Where should I connect the C wire in a Janitrol furnace? I currently have a Honeywell Thermostat with 4 wires going to a Janitrol Furnace. I am trying to install a Honeywell WiFi Thermostat RTH6580WF and I'm missing my C wire. My bundle has 8 possible wires, 4 of which are currently being used by the old thermostat (see attached OLD Pic). I went to the terminal block and saw a black screw above the W, G, R terminals. My question is: can I use the black screw above them as my C Wire? It has 24VAC burned into the board above it, so if my assumptions are correct, I would be fine with it; is this correct? <Q> It does look like it might be a common, but only way to know for sure is to either look at a schematic of the board, or test it with a multi-meter. <S> For reference: R <S> = Constant 24V <S> ac W <S> = Heating contact (the thermostat connects this to R to turn on heat) <S> G <S> = Fan contact (the thermostat connects this to R to turn on fan) <A> That screw is for a 24v humidifier. <S> C wire is blue that connects to the transformer in these Janitrol furnaces. <A> It is blue, I had the same issue. <S> That will bring power to the unit. <S> Then, in order to get the fan to turn on, connect a jumper from the Y wire already attached, which runs the cooling/compressor to the G attachment where you previously moved that original G wire.
|
You'll probably have to at least partially pull out the connector currently on the R to get the multimeter probe on it. Using a multimeter, set to VAC (Volts AC) mode, you should read 24V between the R and C (or in your case, "24V") terminals. Must remove the G wire on the terminal board on the furnace and attach to the chasis nut with the blue cord already attached.
|
How would I fix drooping ceiling tiles? Long story short some of the ceiling tiles in my bedroom are sagging. No idea why, it was like that when I bought the house. How would I fix this: <Q> once moisture has set into the tile it is basically ruined. <S> Your photo appears as thought the support wire above the ceiling has come unattached from the grid. <S> Check your support first. <A> I categorise ceiling tiles into two types exposed support hidden support <S> With the first type you can usually see a white painted metal grid on which the tiles rest. <S> You remove the tiles by gently pushing them up, rotating them a bit, lifting one end a bit and lowering them through the opening diagonally. <S> The second type probably have many variations. <S> push gently on the center of each edge until you find an edge that canbe easily pushed upwards. <S> The opposite edge has a lip that locks under the adjacent tile once you have found the liftable edge, push it up and slide the tile an inch or so towards the lifted edge. <S> the tile should now be free to be removed as described before. <S> All the tiles have a direction because of the assymetric arrangement oflips/rabbets/rebates at the edges <S> All the tiles face the same way. <S> Ceiling tiles are usually very fragile and easily damaged. <S> Don't use force. <S> You should be able to lift them with no more force than straightening your little finger. <S> Once you have removed the sagging tiles you can examine, photograph, repair or replace any damaged supports. <S> Or you can replace the tiles if they are damaged - it may be that the supported lip on the upper edge has simply broken off. <A> This type tile is not on a metal grid. <S> They have tongue and groove edges and the edge is usually stapled to a furring strip that is attached horizontally to the ceiling beams. <S> The tile with the groove is fitted into it. <S> I have reattached some of the tiles that I had coming loose by having someone tightly press the tile to the surface that is above it and used drywall screws to screw through edge that would be where the flange is. <S> The head of the screw should not go in so far as to break the surface. <S> I then used patching compound to cover the head of the screws. <S> It is hardly noticeable since the ceiling was painted. <A> We use to use these type of acoustic tiles when we want to add some acoustic quality to a room or cover up a damaged gypsum board ceiling. <S> The edges actually have small "chamfered" edges and need to be installed tight to the adjacent tile. <S> They are installed using glue (mastic). <S> Then, they'd need to be pressed into position and held there until the glue dries. <S> I don't know if the tiles could be taken down and slowly re-shaped flat again by using steam and weights to get them to lay flat again. <A> If these are T&G tiles, the staples may have pulled through some of the tiles causing them to sag. <S> If you have some replacement tiles handy you can repair/replace by starting at the closest wall. <S> Caregully remove tiles starting at the wall and work toward sagging tiles. <S> Wear proper removal gear. <S> Then replace any damaged tiles. <S> Staple carefully and properly to avoid this issue in the future. <S> If you dont have replacement tiles, it may be a better longterm investment to replace the whole ceiling. <A> Usually the glue on tiles come down when they get wet from a leak, but I don't see any water damage. <S> They may be able to be reattached with double stick tape or construction adhesive like liquid nails. <S> The tiles I have put up similar to this were interlocked or were lapped to hide any seams these will be difficult to get down with out breaking <S> but if you can get 1 down put the adhesive behind the loose ones and the one removed, then put the one removed back in the hole and work them back up as a group. <S> If after taking 1 out you push the others up you would have trim 2 sides of the one removed to get it back in <S> and it may show a small gap. <A> Syringe filled with superglue and a brace to hold it in place while it dries may need a few syringes because they stop up after you have put the glue In draw air back on syringe helps about stoping up
|
You may need to slide adjacent tiles towards a hole you have created by removing a tileThis is particularly true at the edges and next to light fittings Those look like the glue to the ceiling type to me as I don't see any t bar supports. Usually, we used beads of glue (not a coating). The ones in my office can be removed as follows first start from a tile that is not next to any wall or light fittings. These tiles have "square edges", that is to say they do not have T&G edges. Now that they have been exposed to moisture and come loose, they are deformed and probably unusable.
|
What type of room divider should I use to convert a dining room into a bed room? My dining room has 2 openings:96H x 64W (do not need a door/opening)96H x 41W (sliding door) What are my best options to install something which is sturdy (not removable). None of them should be glass doors as it'd be a bedroom. Noise separation would be good but not a must. <Q> My personal perference would be to remove the trim and floor under the opening, frame with 2x4's and then drywall. <S> Paint and re-trim. <S> The pocket door will take a little more work depending on where the hinges will be. <S> If the door handle will go on that side, you can get away with filling the old pocket with a 2x4, but the wall will be stronger if you re-frame where the pocket was. <S> Remove the trim, order a custom pre-hung door, install door, re-trim the new door. <A> Quick and Dirty - Get double doors with pins that go into the jamb and floor to hold the center closed, and lock them. <S> Advantage: <S> Undo-able. <S> Permanent: <S> See diceless's answer. <S> Semi-Permanent <S> : Create a 2x4 stud wall that just fits in theexisting door. <S> Nail it to the door jamb. <S> Cover with drywall, orawesome 1970's basement paneling. <S> Put the dresser in front of thedoor area where the casing is visible, or put the head of the bed sothat it's framed by the casing. <A> Diceless and Chris given some solid suggestions <S> so I'll just throw out one more option here by way of this link . <S> These sliding barn doors are a lot easier to install than a pocket door and add a nice architectural element to the room.
|
If the hinges will be on the side where the door slides into the wall, you will need to open the wall and re-frame that section.
|
When is it appropriate to use a wood rule rather than a tape measure? Wood rules and tape measures are similar tools, and I've realized I almost always default to the tape measure. When should I be using a wood rule instead? <Q> You should use the wood rules when: you have a beard prefer flannel use only hand tools <S> prefer your lattes with artisan made, gluten free, non-dairy, coconut milk live in Brooklyn, NY or Portland, OR <A> Wood rules work great when it is impractical to use a tape measure. <S> They are great in tight areas, or when you are measuring small distances. <S> When you do use one, just make sure that it is accurate. <A> Let me spin this in a slightly different direction: <S> Or nonconductive. <S> If I use a rigid metal rule, it's because it's more accurate than a tape measure <S> and/or I need the rigidity or straight edge. <S> If I use dividers, or a story stick, or something of that sort -- wood or metal -- it's because I'm measuring one thing against another rather than against numbers; again, that can be more accurate. <A> No real "should" here as far as I know. <S> sometimes a wooden rule can be stiffer, and it has the nifty feature of being able to do some interesting stuff with angles/trigonometry due to having hinges regularly spaced... <S> but I would just call those handy features rather than rules. <A> You can hold a rule against a flat object much more securely than can be done with a tape measure. <S> Also, if you have a machinist's rule that is accurate to the end, you can scribe using the end of the rule, something that is impossible with a tape measure. <A> Nowadays, the only place I regularly see them used are with masons. <S> Mason's rules have sizes and lengths for standard cinderblocks and bricks printed on them (for measuring multiple courses with the appropriate number of mortar lines, etc.) <S> I still reach for my smaller folding rule when making decorative boxes; though I might just as likely reach for a small steel square or flat ruler.
|
A measurement by a rule will usually be more accurate than a tape measure and will not bend. If I use a wood rule, it's because I like the feel of the wood and/or need the rigidity or straight edge.
|
Is it possible to install backer-board on a curved surface? We are replacing the carpet around our Heart Shaped tub with tile. For better waterproofing we are using cement board on the top surface. The tub is sunk in the concrete floor with a 7" step up to the edge of the tub on one side. The other side of the rise is to the wall, finished off with a tile backsplash. The problem is that the step follows the curved edge of the tub about 10" out, at a radius of about 10 feet. We can tile by using 1" squares or other small configurations, but how do we curve the backer-board to go behind the tile on the stair riser? <Q> and I'd use 1/4 Wonderboard in this application. <S> IIRC <S> , it is the most ductile <S> (bends before it breaks) of the three. <S> On a stair subject to being kicked, you may want to use two sheets of quarter inch (the same trick for bending drywall) with troweled mortar between them. <S> Basically, backerboard easily lets you fake a "dry pack" mortar bed: <S> Traditionally, for wet applications, the arguably proper method is a "dry pack" mortar bed sloped to a tile drain followed by a hot-mop asphalt application, followed by floated cement followed by tile set in thin-set mortar. <S> It is a method that is quite labor intensive involving specific steps. <S> This is still a common method for commercial and residential applications, but becoming less so with the advent of modern alternative materials and techniques. <S> – <S> Jimmy Fix-it <S> The 'tar' waterproofing is accomplished by the application of an anti-water membrane over your backerboard; embedding fiber tape along any seams or cracks. <S> Even if one or both of the sandwiched backerboards does crack as you install it; the mortar will fill and set it back into a solid piece... hopefully . <S> If the framing is sound, using screwed-down mortared-in-place backerboard and a liquid applied membrane will go a long way towards achieving a professional tile job. <S> This is all assuming you have a nice, gently curved plywood substrate that you can screw to every 6~8" and not just 16"oc studs. <S> Ditra mat is possibly what you could use <S> but I never have, and therefore cannot attest to it's functionality nor whether it is applicable, vertically: <S> ( emctiles.co.uk ) <A> If I ever had to tile a heart shaped tub (and God willing someday <S> I will) <S> I would be looking at the Schluter Kerdi system . <S> They have a great website with videos, pdf's of installation procedures, and videos demonstrating techniques. <S> And their products are easier to work with than traditional cemetitious backers. <S> They even have a board specifically made for curves. <A> A jigsaw fitted with a carbide or metal cutting blade will cut through the backer board without a problem. <S> Sounds like a pretty long cut, so you may go through a few blades. <S> But those are cheap. <S> However, the dust created is not healthy. <S> At a minimum, do all the cutting outside and if it were me, I'd use a respirator. <A> Will cut it like butter. <S> You will need goggles and a very good mask though - and do it outside.
|
If you want to cut Hardiboard on a curve just use an angle grinder with an old diamond blade on it. I have used HardieBacker, Wonderboard and Durock
|
Will enclosing my porch keep my house warmer? Will enclosing my porches during the winter help keep my house warmer? There is a lot of wind hitting the house, and I'm afraid that is causing a drop in temperature. <Q> An enclosed porch can act as an oversized "storm window" for the part of the house it covers, so there is some insulation benefit. <S> How much depends on how well the porch is air-sealed and insulated. <S> It's probably a relatively small part of the surface of the house (unless it's a wrap-around porch), but it certainly won't hurt and, depending on prevailing winds and lighting conditions, might help. <S> Again, probably not a huge effect, but it's there. <S> And gives you a sheltered place to leave outdoor stuff like bicycles, or muddy shoes that you don't want to track into the house. <S> I doubt energy savings alone justify it. <S> Those combined with increasing the year-round usefulness of the porch space might. <S> (Mine just has storm windows all the way around. <S> It definitely does work as windbreak and airlock and so on. <S> Its R-value for the rest of the house is probably negligible, but I still find it useful -- and it gives me a screened porch in the summer as well. <S> Someday I'll upgrade it into a three-season space, but there's no rush right now.) <A> I have an 1930's vinatge house w a glassed in front porch on the east side. <S> I open those windows in the summertime. <S> Otherwise the porch heats up to 115°F or so, and that heat comes through the limited, 1930's style, insulation into the living room, where I have to pump it back out with an AC. <S> If I forget to close the porch windows in fall, winter makes the porch icy cold. <S> That cools the wall to the living room, and I have to combat that with the furnace. <S> Closing the porch windows will raise the temp out there by up to 25 <S> °F on a sunny winter day. <S> It's not comfortable sitting out there, but it keeps the living room wall much warmer. <A> Unlikely. <S> If your house is too cold in the winter, ans especially if it's very windy, you need to start by sealing off places where cold air is coming in. <S> That will often help a ton. <S> The next time it's very windy, just go around the house feeling for drafts and air currents. <S> After doing that, you can then start to improve your house's insulation. <S> The attic floor is often low-hanging fruit since you can blow a bunch of cellulose onto the floor very inexpensively. <S> If you have hollow walls, those can be blown full of cellulose as well (in the wall, it needs to be dense-packed) through holes cut in the top of the wall. <S> Basement walls can also be a big win, but to do that properly, you need to add rigid foam insulation boards and make it airtight <S> so moist air can't blow through the insulation boards touch the wall. <S> After that, new windows or low-e storm windows can help. <A> If your porch gets any sun, it should help. <S> My dad enclosed his each fall and opened it back up in the spring to let the breeze through. <S> Worked great, but this was in the high desert where it would be sunny and below freezing at the same time.
|
An enclosed porch can also act as an "airlock", reducing how much warm air you lose each time you go in and out by preventing winds from blowing straight into the house.
|
Why do utility companies sometimes offer incentives for having equipment that uses less of their product? Originally asked as a follow up question, and lost in the controversy of Why would it matter whether a front-loading washer is upstairs? ( They will only give me a free FRONT-loader if it's on the first or basement floors ...) Why they would only offer it in this way has been speculated about; how it is economically viable for the power company to do this at all, isn't. The power and gas companies in my area have offered similar rebates and incentives that I would think to be counter-intuitive to their business. Why would the power company offer an incentive for having equipment that would use less power? My less than educated guess is that it's a 'government thing' or they're somehow trying to deal with demand spikes. But the latter wouldn't explain why the gas company would give you a rebate for upgrading to a HE furnace or a programmable thermostat. <Q> The utility company wants to reduce PEAK demand -- it is much cheaper to ensure that power demand never goes above X than to build a new power plant. <S> Furthermore, balancing the peaks and valleys of demand means that they can generally use cheaper power sources (nuclear/hydro) and avoid the expensive gas/oil fired plants. <S> A washing machine has a giant heater in it, and a front-loader uses less water and thus less heat to heat it up. <S> Hence the utility no longer has to plan for so much more peak demand... <A> Very simply, because otherwise they may be forced to do things they like even less -- make a huge investment in infrastructure, for example, to provide enough power to serve all the customers. <S> There are also government incentives (carbon credits and so on) and PR benefits. <S> Put those together, and it's worth the relatively small amount of money they're investing. <S> Especially when they're in competition with the other energy sources (gas vs. oil vs. electric) and want to encourage you to continue, for example, heating with gas rather than switching to oil. <A> In many areas, electric utilities are strictly regulated, and may be subject to political forces as much as they are to market forces. <S> Although efficiency improvements with things like air conditioners may help a company to reduce its peak power demands, some subsidized appliances would be used largely during off-peak hours. <S> On the other hand, if an electric company wants to build a new plant, apparent efforts to reduce demand and improve the environment may help it clear the regulatory hurdles necessary to do so.
|
Subsidies to customers to promote the purchase of energy-efficient equipment might win the favor of politicians responsible for setting tax policies, environmental regulations, electric rates, etc., and the value of such favor to shareholders may in some cases exceed the money spent.
|
Is it really such a terrible idea to have original pine floorboards in a bathroom? we have just pulled up some awful old carpet in our bathroom and found that, underneath a layer of particle board, there are lovely old (original?) pitch pine floorboards in lovely condition - I'm so tempted to sand and varnish them instead of laying new flooring (I know tiles would be better etc but our house is a 200 year old cottage so a distressed/vintage floorboard look is what we are really keen on). However I'm aware of the potential issues with solid wood flooring in bathrooms. The alternative is to lay new engineered wood over the top instead, but it seems a shame. The question is, is it really such a terrible idea to have original pine floorboards in a bathroom providing they are varnished heavily (yacht varnish or similar)? With care around spills and splashes - could this be made to work? <Q> If the wood is in good condition and you refinish it properly <S> I see no reason not to keep that flooring. <S> Most oil based flooring vanishes will work fine but if you want to get really serious have a professional flooring company come in and finish it with an aluminum oxide based finished or one of the catalyzed varnishes. <A> I would leave the wood as the gentleman before me commented. <S> Just sand them (if needed) re-stain and wax sealer. <S> Put some rugs down... <S> small rugs with pads. <A> I'm putting down reclaimed pine in my house (1926 bungalow) and will include the wood floor in the kid's 10'x14' bath. <S> I too, am going for a vintage/distressed look <S> and I like the look of a white clawfoot tub and pedestal sink against the warmer wood tones. <S> Overflowing toilet seems to be the only potential drawback, but what the heck...
|
Enjoy the beauty of the old wood!
|
How can I safely get rid of the odor caused by EasyOff oven cleaner? I recently cleaned my oven with something called EasyOff Fume Free . It worked great at getting the crud off my oven, but now, for the life of me, I can't get rid of the smell. The "fume free" part of their marketing is a joke. If I turn the oven on, even at its lowest setting (~100 degrees), it starts emitting a nauseating odor that chokes me out and makes my throat sore. I opened up all the windows, opened the doors, started a big room fan, and left the house for an hour. I came back and the smell was still there. It only goes away after I turn the oven off. I tried washing the inside of the oven with water and a sponge, and that didn't seem to help. Is this normal?!? Has anyone else had a similar experience with this (or similar) oven cleaning products? What was the fix? <Q> I think you're going to have to burn off any residue. <S> This is going to take a very hot temp for several hours. <S> If your oven has a self clean then try using that, otherwise I'd set it to max temp for 2-3hrs and then give it several more hours to cool off before you open it and wipe away any remaining residue. <A> When I want to get rid of strong odors, I use a tray of vinegar. <S> It doesn't have to be a lot of vinegar. <S> Try to maximize the vinegar to air surface (shallow pan). <S> Leave it in there overnight, and it should do the job. <A> Once boiling, leave to boil for an hour and toward the end turn on fan bake. <S> It should help to suppress the odor.
|
Try heating it on bake at max and placing a pan of water on the lowest rack.
|
How would one extract a brick chimney embedded in the middle of a house? I have a no-longer-in-use brick chimney running from basement to attic (roof was closed over it), left over from earlier heating systems. The space alongside it is being used for plumbing and electrical, so it would probably be a pain to actually recover those few square feet... but it has me wondering: How would one extract a brick chimney embedded in the middle of a house? Open up one of the adjacent walls and attack it with rotary hammer? And would the years of combustion residue -- gas and oil most recently, but I suspect there were one or more woodstoves originally -- be a significant health hazard, or just a mess? (If I don't extract it, I'll probably want to cap it off to make sure it isn't breaking my air-sealing. Thoughts on an easy/cheap way to do that also welcome.) <Q> We removed an old brick chimney to install a modern (well, 1970's modern - stainless steel is more common these days in your better chimneys) <S> block and tile chimney by simply hammering and removing bricks. <S> If you do it top down <S> it's "apparently more tedious" but actually less time overall than anything involving "knocking it down" and then clearing up the mess, when it's inside an occupied, normally clean house. <S> A wide mason's chisel may help. <S> Incidentally, if you drop the bricks down the chimney they pile up in short order and become a relative pain to remove. <S> Take it from a former teenager who thought that was a great way to get rid of them until we hit the pile coming up as we were tearing down. <A> Just wanted to make sure this was recorded: Be careful to look at what else the chimney may be supporting, In my 1880's house, the base of the chimney used to help support the ground floor's main beam; that eventually faled which is why the beam now has columns under it (and why the dining room, and the bedroom above it, have tilted floors). <S> It is possible that the corresponding beams for the second floor or the attic floor are still resting on the chimney; if so, I'd have to bring in someone to advise on whether that support is needed and how else we could achieve it. <A> Bricks and mortar... <S> Anecdotally, I removed an embedded brick chimney from a 1900's era house. <S> It was (floating above for a stove) resting on a 2x4 frame, supported by two 2x4's at a 45. <S> Amazingly even once removed, someone had to go in the attic and pound on it a little. <S> KABOOM! <S> -and <S> then we took a nice long lunch. <S> We first removed what we could from the attic. <S> -by <S> throwing it down the chimney. <S> If you're removing it to regain wall space, then the old soffit is in the way anyway; open up the drywall/knock the wall down. <S> The respirator ( not a dust mask) you should be wearing for demolition will protect you from all that stuff. <S> Surgically? <S> Notch out an area of the lower section to install temporary bracing. <S> Remove the lower section. <S> Remove the bracing. <S> Kaboom (protect the floor appropriately). <S> Take lunch.
|
Remove as much off the top as you can get to. Bricks are actually pretty easy to get apart when you learn how, and that won't take long if you pay attention to what works on the first few layers.
|
What type of 6ft fence should I get, that can take a lot of high winds? We need to replace our chain link fence with a 6ft fence because 2 of our dogs can jump over it. We just don't know what type of fence can take a beating from the high winds we get due to the fact that our yard faces the west and there is a huge retention ditch behind us that they us as a field for sports when its not filled with water, so when it is a windy day, a bad thunderstorm, or a snow/ice storm we want our fence to be able to last a while. We have lived in our house for 12 years and have seen my neighbor replace their wood fence 3 times and I notice that the wood starts to splinter fast. My other neighbor has the PVC fence for about 5 years and had to replace a couple of sections twice. Also we have had to replace our storm screen door on the back door 3 times since we have lived here due to the winds blowing them off. Looking forward to hearing what you recommend. <Q> How much is "a lot of high winds"? <S> I have a classic cedar panel fence <S> (now with pressure-treated posts; it was time to redo them all and PT <S> lasts in ground contact better than cedar), and it has withstood a couple of microbursts and the like with little or no damage. <S> It did lose one board from one panel and a couple of post caps and cap strips over the years (which I also had cleaned up as part of this redo), but not much more than that. <A> Chain link is probably what you want to stay with. <S> It will survive hurricane-force winds (little resistance), is low-maintenance, dog-proof and provides excellent security. <S> If the hounds can jump 6 feet you can easily get 8 foot chain link. <S> But (and it's a big one) <S> you don't install chain link fence on the cheap. <S> Poles must be anchored in concrete, corners must be braced against the next pole and it must be tensioned properly. <S> If the dogs like to dig, rent a small ditch digger like the kind used for sprinkler systems. <S> You can then simply bury the fence 2 feet down. <A> Any wooden type with 4x4 or 5x5 post sat in a 2foot hole using concrete. <S> But leave a small gap between the pickets for the wind to blow though.
|
Use good materials (PT in ground, PT or a weather/insect-resistant wood like cedar above ground), set the posts properly, and a wood fence can be good for 20 years with only minor maintenance.
|
Why is there no water after replacing the filter in a Samsung refrigerator? I just replaced my refrigerator (RFG297HDBP) water filter with a genuine Samsung replacement filter. However, with the new filter in, I get a short burst of water, then no more water. I can pull out the filter and reinstall it and the same thing happens ( I have pulled it out and screwed it back in about 20 times so far). I put the old filter back in and now it is has the same problem. My guess from the sound of it is that the filter is filling up with water during the turning process, but once it gets to the lock, no more water is able to pass into the filter. Has anyone else experienced this? How should I fix it? <Q> We had the same problem as everyone else. <S> Installed a new filter (not a Samsung filter). <S> After we installed the new filter there was no water. <S> Tried the old one again and same thing, no water. <S> We tried everything and could not figure what the problem was. <S> Finally we unplugged the refrigerator and waited a few minutes. <S> Plugged it back in and voila, we had water! <S> Evidently something needed to reset itself. <A> Here's what I found. <S> I tried installing another brand of filter. <S> When I put in in and turned it, it broke off one of the star-shaped, spring-loaded valve stems that controls the flow of water in and out of the filter. <S> If you look back inside the filter (the filter housing), there should be two of these valves. <S> My cheap filter broke one of these. <S> I'm looking into ordering the filter housing myself and see if I can do the repair. <A> I had the same problem. <S> I use generic filters. <S> One time I got no water after changing and the old filter would not work either. <S> Tried multiple times to get it to work. <S> Finally just removed filter, closed door and ran a glass of water without the filter. <S> Bingo, put filter back in and worked IMMEDIATELY. <S> Assume there was some sort of air lock and that flushed it. <S> I would also pre-fill the filter before inserting it. <A> What I did was remove the 49 dollar 300 gallon filter. <S> Then I installed at 32 dollar 6000 gallon 5 year in line filter on the line leading into the refrigerator. <S> The filter head assembly is a design defect. <S> I won't pay 160 dollars for replacement of the assembly <S> so I can continue buying Samsung filters. <S> So... solved two problems and Samsung just lost business in selling their 49 dollar filters. <S> It was a win win for me and a lesson to Samsung that if they want to sell expensive filters they better make sure the check valve pins in the filter head don't wear out early. <A> Here is the answer to the question. <S> When you changed the filter and put the new one in, the one or both of the valve stems broke off. <S> You can replace the filter housing for about $170 or do a poor mans repair. <S> So I took a hot glue gun and put some glue on the flat part of the filter that touches that stem. <S> By the gaskets. <S> Let it dry and get hard. <S> This will push the stem all the way in. <S> Put the filter in <S> and it all worked again. <S> Cost, 1 cent. <S> Call the repairman, $200 to show up and $200 for the part. <S> This is what is wrong with your water. <A> Same Problem Solved. <S> Turn off water. <S> Take out filter. <S> Turn on water. <S> Run water for long enough to fill the supply tubing. <S> Shut off water. <S> Install filter. <S> Slooowwly turn on the water while someone else is drawing water. <S> Worked for me. <S> Thanks <A> So, This has been driving me crazy for 2 years now. <S> The only fix that i found was to take a hot glue gun to the new filters and put a small dab of glue around the inner and outer rims that push the X plunger into the filter housing assembly(props to Pete). <S> I have the Samsung french door fridge and use the DA29-000029B filters. <S> If i don't use filter <S> I get a perfect water stream. <S> If I press either plungers boom water in my face. <S> Nothing looks broken, and after doing the hot glue it seems like its a filter manufacturing tolerance issue. <S> Where when turned in till it locks, it does not fully depress the plunger(s). <S> This is why my original one worked, and replacements don't. <S> Also this explains why sometimes it works for a little bit then gets slower and slower and stops as the plugged works its way out with vibration. <S> Worked for me <S> and i just hot glued three filter replacements <S> so i wont have to do it for a year and a half. <S> Either try that, spend $200 on a new filter housing assembly (that may not fix it) or say screw it and get an inline filter. <S> I hope this helps at least one person driven to the level of insanity I was. <S> Last ditch effort is to unscrew the filter but leave it in so it looks like its filtering and just reset the light when it turns red. <S> This will keep the wife fooled for awhile. :P <A> I've been going a round with this fridge and filter issue since moving into a rental in August. <S> Finally tried to insert the filter simultaneously while depressing the water lever on the front of the fridge. <S> The water kept flowing through the filter once it was locked into place and no stoppage thus far! <S> Hallelujah. <S> Good luck. <S> YMMV
|
I looked where my filter goes in and saw that the outside valve stem was slightly shorter than the inside one.
|
Why would changing ceiling fan speed cause an AFCI breaker to trip? I recently installed 2 ceiling fans with Lutron combination light and fan dimmer switches. On both circuits, if more than a half second or so is taken when selecting the fan speed (that is, a delay while between the low-medium-high states) the arc fault protection kicks in and shuts down the branch. There is no issue if I move fast enough between states or while the fan is in a steady state condition. This happens on two separate circuits with two identical fans and dimmers. I'm going on the assumption that while the switch contactor is being moved there is either a small amount of arcing inside the switch or there is some EMI being generated that is offending the AFCI. Should I go ahead and move to a non-AFCI breaker or are there any alternatives that I should consider? <Q> Switches generate small, momentary arcs as part of their normal operation; AFCIs are designed to recognize and ignore these momentary arcs. <S> In other words: "Doctor, it hurts if I do this!" <S> "Don't do that, then!" <A> NEMA maintains an "AFCI Unwanted Tripping Report" form at http://www.afcisafety.org/report.html . <S> After reporting a problem there, I was contact and eventually send a new AFCI breaker that solved the problem, sort of. <A> I had a ceiling fan that was tripping the Square-D arc fault breaker every time it was turned on. <S> The fan was working perfectly while the electrician was here, and once he left it would trip the breaker every time. <S> Plugging a small LED nightlight into the other outlet serviced by that breaker completely eliminated the problem!
|
However, holding the switch between positions (or taking a while to transition between positions) can lead to the arc sustaining itself, which damages the switch contacts and also causes the AFCI to trip because it sees an arc it doesn't recognize as harmless.
|
How can I run cables along a concrete wall? I am living in a house with concrete walls (no attic, no basement) and I want to run Cat5e or Cat6 Cable from the router which is downstairs to my office which is upstairs. Right now running cables through the walls is not an option. previously I have been using these little nail things with a bracket on them to hold the cables down, but they tend to fall out, so that is not a useful option. What is the best way to run ethernet cable so it stays in place and not spend too much money <Q> There are various types of cable clips that use adhesive to hold them in place, such as these If you are concerned about damaging the finish when they are taken off, some brands have pull strips that claim to avoid paint damage. <S> Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> Buy cable in bulk. <S> I'd suggest raceways. <S> It should be easy to install with an adhesive <S> or you can probably find some with a peel and stick backing. <S> If you rent, you should be able to remove it and take it to the next place or if you did a nice job, the landlord might not care that you leave it. <A> You need some plastic anchors, you can see some here. <S> Simply drill a hole into the concrete with a a concrete bit and then glue the plastic anchor into the hole then drill the screw into the plastic anchor. <S> You can get ones with a cable brackets. <S> https://www.homedepot.com/p/10-12-x-1-1-4-in-Blue-Ribbed-Plastic-Anchor-75-Piece-804092/204273427 Heres a better example of the pair: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-6-x-7-8-in-Yellow-Ribbed-Plastic-Anchor-with-Pan-Head-Combo-Drive-Screw-50-Pieces-804122/204273419
|
You can buy mortar screws that come with plastic anchors. The best deal is probably an online supplier. You can get raceway for about $4/lf.
|
How can I muffle a loud doorbell? I live in an apartment, in which the doorbell emits an unreasonably loud tone (kind of square-wave-y) continuously and at constant volume for as long as someone has the button depressed. Since people buzzing me from the complex's front door have no feedback that the bell is actually working, they tend to press it multiple times and for a long time; this gets to be very annoying. I would like to figure out a way to dampen the bell's sound. Since I do not own the property, I cannot replace or alter the bell in any way, so I'm looking for non-invasive ways of quieting it down. I'm not really concerned about aesthetics; if I need to make the thing look like a Lovecraftian horror to quiet it down, so be it. My first instinct is to purchase some acoustic foam ( like this ) and tape it over the speaker; does that seem like the kind of thing that would work? Here is a photograph of the thing for reference: <Q> You can get some wide white gaffer tape and cover the speaker grille. <S> If you did it neatly, you would barely be able to tell it is there. <S> Gaffer tape looks similar to duct tape, but it sticks better and leaves much less sticky residue when it is removed. <S> That way your modification would be completely reversible. <A> It's always debatable what exactly you can alter and can't. <S> A lot of times, as long as the process is reversible, the landlord can't stop you. <S> Plus you can always ask for permission. <S> If you wanted to reduce the volume electronically, you could place a resistor in parallel to the speaker. <S> A resistor of the same impedance of the speaker (usually 6 or 8 ohms) would cut in half the power (not volume) to the speaker. <S> You need a resistor large enough to handle the power of the speaker, a few watts probably - <S> a standard 1/2 or 1/4 watt resistor isn't likely going to do it. <S> And you might need to play around with resistor values to get the ideal volume level. <A> Drive to your local craft store and pick up some felt and hot glue.
|
You can glue a few pieces of felt over the cover, and it will dampen the sound so it is not as shrill or loud, and it may even look nicer than foam!
|
Why would an old fridge trip a circuit breaker? I recently got an old fridge from a friend for use as a fermentation fridge for my homebrewed beer. The reason they were getting rid of it was because it was working fine, however it wouldn't cool below 8C, and they were quoted a few hundred dollars to fix the problem. However despite not cooling particularly low, the form given to them by the repairman has a box which is ticked which indicates that it has been tested and is in compliance with some sort of Australian/New Zealand standard, indicating that there can't be terribly much wrong with it. We took the fridge over to my house, and after leaving it for a day or two upright (since we had to put it on its side to transport it), I turned it on. It immediately tripped the circuit breakers. As soon as I tried to switch the breaker back on, it tripped again. However I persisted, and after a few attempts to turn the breaker back to the on position, it stayed there and the fridge began to cool. The problem here is that I need to use an external temperature controller to switch the fridge on and off in order to maintain the temperature I need to ferment my beer (roughly 16-20C). This presents a problem, since turning the fridge on and off will trip the circuit breakers. I've tried moving the fridge to a different circuit, but that didn't solve things. I'm reasonably sure that the circuit I moved it to (the one for my garage) has nothing else on it, or at least whatever else is on it was switched off when I tested it. Does this issue sound like something that's easily fixed, and are there any common causes for this sort of issue? Could it be simply high inrush current due to the age of the fridge? Could it be solved using some sort of inrush current limiter? Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. <Q> I have a homebrew chest freezer in the garage, and a very understanding wife. <S> I am going to guess the problem is that the fridge has a 'freon' leak. <S> This leads to lack of oil in the freon line to lubricate the compressor. <S> Which causes the compressor to overheat, and then a high temp thermostat opens. <S> The unit cools down, the thermostat resets, and it starts back up again. <S> The magic temp for overheating the compressor happens to be 8C inside of the fridge. <S> The reason for the breaker tripping immediately the first few times was from the compressor trying to start. <S> Even though you gave it a couple of days, because of the leak, there is just not enough oil, in the right places, to start right up. <S> I am guessing the fix is easy for an appliance guy, a bit of dye to find the leak, solder over it, and recharge. <S> Best of luck to you and your lager. <A> The first step is to determine if your circuits are adequate for the rated load of the appliance. <S> This will require looking at the appliance for its load requirements. <S> Keep in mind that adding additional electrical components between appliance and the outlet providing power does not repair the appliance and may simply mask a hazardous condition that may result in serious life safety threats such as structural fire or fatal electrical shocks. <A> The electrician said that this is fairly common with old fridges and modern (i.e. switched rather than a fuse wire) circuit breakers. <S> There are simpler switched circuit breakers (e.g. without ground leak detection?) <S> that might be less sensitive. <S> In this case the fridge was replaced.
|
Someone I know brought an old, working fridge from an old house to a new flat, where it would frequently trip the circuit breaker. If the circuit is sufficient for the rated load, yet the appliance is tripping it, then the appliance is out of spec and requires repair or replacement.
|
Door lock and unlock based on authorized user proximity I want to install an electronic lock on my office/workshop that only a specific individual(s) can unlock. I want it to lock every time the door is closed and the room is empty but I do not want to have to use a key or pin code every time I open it. So I am thinking of designing a system that detects close proximity to the door for authorized users, and unlocks it. Allowing authorized users to walk up and open the door. The system would also need to know when an authorized user was actually in the room, and keep the door unlocked until they leave. This should be manageable with motion sensors and computer terminal usage (registering that someone is using the computer equals someone is in the room). What kind of solution would be necessary to accomplish this? <Q> A Bluetooth solution (where the smartphone acts as the key) may be the way to go for you. <S> You can check out this page , which has a lot of options, although I must make a disclaimer that I have never done this type of thing. <A> I never implemented something like this <S> but I did implement something similar with other uses. <S> I also asked a question here for automating parts of the home based on user that entered. <S> It can be implemented using OpenHab with the NetworkHealth binding : https://github.com/openhab/openhab/wiki/Network-Health-Binding . <S> There is no need to issue different hardware tokens for each users but rather have them always keep their mobile phone's WiFi on. <S> You must know the IP their phone has in the network so as to store them in OpenHab like this: Switch <S> Phone_WIFI <S> "Phone 1" (Status, Network) { nh="192.168.1.101 <S> " }Switch Phone2_WIFI <S> "Phone 2" (Status, Network) { nh="192.168.1.102" } More details for OpenHAB <S> : the binding will check the connection status of a given device with it's IP Address, then you can use a rule such as : rule "Allowed user home - Unlock Door"when <S> Item Phone_WIFI <S> received update ONthen // <S> turn on all lights postUpdate(Door_lock, <S> OFF)end and a similar code for when they leave the proximity range for Item Phone_WIFI received update OFF <S> I have not tested the received update OFF code as of yet and not 100% sure it works. <S> Also be aware as proximity and range is an issue because with several different methods (bluetooth or WiFi) <S> the range might be longer or shorter than what you desire so router placement or bluetooth device must be very correctly placed so as the door does not unlock while you are still entering the driveway (unless that is not a problem for you). <A> I do not have any experience with proximity sensors but there are quite a few options available, and I am sure you will get better responses in that regard here from forum members. <S> You would require a Primary Z-Wave controller to do this, as well as a Z-Wave Doorlock or Deadbolt. <S> Hope that helps! <A> Just found this Kwikset IoT lock. <S> Differentiate inside/outside. <S> * Touch to lock/open* <S> Bluetooth phone or hardware token <S> * Guest key possible. <S> HTH,
|
Once you find a sensor that will work for you, the Fibaro RGBW Controller can accept analog proximity sensors that when triggered would send a Z-Wave signal to a Z-Wave controller thus opening/closing the a door lock and/or deadbolt.
|
Reliable, inexpensive way to be notified of a water leak? I have a few places in my home that I really, really don't want water to be. I've had bad experiences with water in the past (read: whole-house flooding from an upstairs toilet valve), and I'd like to make sure I can catch a slow (or even fast) leak before it becomes a huge pain. There are a few places that I'm suspicious of, namely a couple sinks, the line running into a refrigerator, etc. We currently have some water alarms that beep when they detect water, but that won't help much if I'm not at home and thus can't hear the beep. What's a reliable, long term , cheap way to get notified (SMS, push notification, IFTTT action, etc) of a water leak? <Q> Apart from notification, cut off the main water line when detecting a leak. <S> For example WaterCop . <S> It may connect to your existing automation system; see their FAQ : <S> WaterCop systems are equipped with auxiliary input/output contacts and can be wired into your existing home automation system with simple low voltage wiring (wiring not included). <S> Please consult your security system manual or installation professional for details on other systems. <S> I haven't used any such system. <A> An interesting leak detection system you can find in industrial processes can be implemented with a flow sensor (or level sensor) on the PVC pipes leaving the building : the flow (or level) is monitored real-time whenever on a particular day, min(flow) <S> > 0 <S> ; there is probably a leak whenever there is a flow > 0 between 02:00:00 and 03:00:00 ; there is probably a leak Such a process can allow you to monitor multiple houses. <S> You can reverse the process and monitor the water supply counter of your home. <A> Embedded system: (not inexpensive) <S> Universal Devices makes a controller which is very useful for many home automation tasks including alerting. <S> with it you can create a simple If/ <S> Then statement which will alert you when an insteon water leak sensor triggers. <S> with open source software <S> you can definitely accomplish this for a lower cost using the same sensor. <A> The Insteon Leak Sensor is one such device, when paired into your Insteon System, you simply place it near any places you wish to monitor and when a leak occurs it triggers a response to your Insteon Hub which then will send you a notification anywhere you are on a smartphone or other internet device. <S> You would need an Insteon hub for this to work as you wish. <S> Z-Wave has a number of leak/flood sensors, the best being the new Flood Sensor from Fibaro, which we are a US dealer for, or any similar products from Fortrezz, which are good as well. <S> Again for remote control and montioring you need a Z-Wave controller like Vera, Smarthings or others, the Vera will send you SMS, Emails etc anywhere, anytime.
|
I would suggest a simple home automation system, such as Insteon or Z-Wave for remote or local, live continuous monitoring of leaks.
|
Why is a neutral wire needed for most 'smart' light switches? Why do most smart light switches need a neutral wire? <Q> Put simply; the smart switch contains electronics that needs power to operate, while a regular switch just mechanically cuts the load. <S> Regular switch: <S> Smart switch: <S> Source: http://www.vesternet.com/blog/2014/09/why-smart-switches-cant-be-used-without-neutral/ <A> In order so that the switch can be 'on' to receive the RF signals, it needs a return path for itself so the 'load' isn't on all the time. <S> Having the neutral wire present at the switch allows this to happen, and then when you command the load to turn on, it can pass through all the electricity to the load and thence back via that neutral wire to your load center. <A> What more important; what if you don't have a neutral and use a 2-wire module... <S> In those cases the smartswitch will be added to your electrical system in serial, instead of parallel. <S> This power is not enough to be noticed on a regular light bulb (though on led lights it might show, as not being able to turn the lights completely off) <S> This is also the reason you see those devices (2-wire devices) only as dimmer modules, not as switches.
|
Because the smartswitch needs to be powered to be able to receive commands from the homecontroller, it cannot completely switch off, so it will always "leak" a certain amount of power.
|
How can I seal old Jalousie windows? In our rented house there are old Jalousie windows (the kind with glass slats). When I was looking for ways to seal them better (it's getting cold here), I came across this: http://www.amazon.com/Clear-Jalousie-Louver-Slat-Vinyl/dp/B000KZPB9K However, the product matches 3/16" thick glass, whereas our windows are 1/4". Any chance it will fit anyway since it's Vinyl? Any other suggestions for sealing Jalousie windows? <Q> Apply doublestick tape around window frame, apply shrink film, heat with hairdryer or heat gun to shrink, remove in spring. <S> Quite clear, quite effective, not very easy to remove/replace if you decide to open the windows in January, though it can be removed/replaced with care if you don't trim all the excess film when installing. <S> " <S> Shrink film window kit" will find a vast array in a search, or try your hardware store. <A> And even if it did a half-baked job of staying in place the flap that is to seal against the opposite slat will be cocked at a strange angle and may not even allow the slats to close properly. <S> I would search out a similar product made specifically for 1/4" glass slats. <A> At the cheap end, I've seen a combination of duct tape and Visqueen used effectively. <S> Interior storm windows are more costly but offer a different aesthetic. <S> For long term thermal performance, replacement is probably the best course but comes at the expense of what jallosies provide during open window season.
|
Shrink film - works irrespective of window type. The strip will likely not stay in position trying to pull it over the edge of the thicker glass. I believe that if you purchased the 3/16" style of the vinyl strip and tried using it on 1/4" thick glass that you would be extremely disappointed with the result.
|
How do I remove huge gluey sticker tape on glass? I'm asking for my cousin in Hong Kong, whose little children stuck this window sticker onto the glass. We read How do I remove the gluey residue left by gaffer tape on glass , https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/30948 , Removing Tuck Tape from an unfinished window frame , but nothing works! Please see the picture with my labels below. We tried vegetable oil, dishwash detergent, rubbing (isopropyl) alcohol, and vinegar. The only solution is to use our nails to tear off a litte piece of the tape, a tiny piece by tiny piece. Please help! Thanks! <Q> A good brand of orange oil (limonene) cleaner takes care of most of my tape problems. <S> Some tapes, such as window-tinting sheets, are thermosetting, and removal requires heating. <S> I used a clothes steamer/razor blade on the tinted windows of my Honda. <S> That worked well. <S> See method two, here . <A> My cousin managed to solve it. <S> He used a razor blade scraper and something called 綠水 in Chinese. <S> I think it's just a kind of bleach used only in Hong Kong. <S> It doesn't work if you only use the razor scraper and scrape dryly. <S> He found a "putty knife", underneath, completely useless. <A> Because you have already tried other approaches, this may not work any longer but I have had great success with a blow dryer ( <S> hair dryer).Just warm it up and use a sharp object to start an edge of the sticky tape, gently lifting it as you aim the hair dryer at it (slowly moving it back and forth). <S> The heat generally releases the sticky adhesive so you can peel it off! <S> I'd follow this process with some Goof Off over the tackiness that will likely remain on the glass surface. <S> Good luck! <A> Heat generally helps a lot - softens the adhesive <S> so it pulls away easily. <S> Depending on the adhesive, cold also works (but not in Hong Kong - never gets to -30 there). <S> Regarding solvents / cleaning chemicals etc. <S> Solvents only work on things they are chemically compatible with. <S> There is no "magic glue remover" unless you work your way up to spectacularly dangerous chemicals like straight chromic acid. <S> Try one, if it doesn't like the glue in question try another. <S> If you can't pronounce it on the first try, definitely get gloves and a respirator.
|
The trick is to use the razor scraper while spraying the sticker with the bleach, so you need to scrape wetly.
|
Can I plug a generator into a dryer outlet I have an electric dryer with a 30 amp circuit running to it. If I had a male-male plug to run from a portable generator to this outlet, would it be safe to run essential appliances (water pump, refridgerator, sump pump, etc) during a power outage as long as I tuned off the main breaker and the total draw was less than 30 amps? <Q> ABSOLUTELY NOT!! <S> This is NEVER an option. <S> Also, a male-to-male cord is called a "suicide cord" for a reason. <A> The transfer switch that MUST be used - as pointed out by <S> Speedy - is essential that it be properly installed in conjunction with how the utility / house wiring is installed. <S> The transfer switch and interlock mechanism is essential for the safety of both you and for the utility folks that may be working on downed utility lines. <S> People who try to short cut and cheap out on installing a generator hookup correctly always think that they can remember to cut the main breaker before starting up their generator. <S> But the plain fact that rules and regulations exist for use of transfer switches and interlocks proves that people make mistakes despite best intentions. <A> I worked as a high voltage lineman for 30 years and have seen all kinds of squirrelly generator set ups. <S> NEC requires that a transfer switch be used. <S> I have seen more than a few main breakers that had failed and were still on when they showed off. <S> If you do not have a transfer switch, you risk sending power back through your breaker and meter, back to the transformer, and stepping 120 volts up to line voltage. <S> No a good thing for the linemen out in the middle of the night, in bad weather, trying to restore everyone's power. <A> I was told by an electrician that the mains breaker does not disconnect the neutral line, only the two halves of the 240 volt feed. <S> A transfer switch will isolate everything. <A> Can you? <S> yes it is possible, it will probably even work. <S> Is it a really bad idea, yes. <S> Is it criminally illegal, probably not as long as you are sure to flip the breaker. <S> As others have said use an interlock, or if you need to do it cheaper, buy extension chords for your 3-4 critical appliances and use them.
|
With out a proper interlock and transfer switch your generator would be feeding out onto the mains lines and could very well kill someone. You MUST use some form of transfer switch or interlock, along with the proper male inlet. It is never a good idea to plug your generator into your home's wiring even if your turn your main off. Thus you are still connected to the grid. Is it against code, yes.
|
What could be causing my kitchen drawers to be sliding out? Two out of the four kitchen drawers are sliding open after about 20 seconds of staying closed. I managed to fix one by tightening the screws, but one continues to misbehave. I compared the ones that stay closed and the one that still won't, and there does not seem to be much difference. All the screws are tight and the tracks are clean and level. How can I diagnose what's wrong? Here are some photos of the one that won't stay closed (the angle on the camera is off on the second one): <Q> I've had this happen before. <S> Like the commenter mentioned, it's due to one of two things: <S> The cabinet is not level with the floor causing the whole cabinet to lean forward. <S> Just get a level and test the drawer and the track. <A> Your tracks are not level. <S> What you need to do is take the drawers out and then unscrew the back of the track where it attaches to the wall. <S> Then you need to move it down so it is just a little bit unlevel (make sure the track slants down away from you!). <A> I have this happening at a rental unit, and it just started happening at my own house in my kitchen that we remodeled a few years ago. <S> I talked to my cabinet maker <S> and he said there is a little rubber bushing on each drawer slide that keeps it closed. <S> Over time, the rubber cracks and the bushing falls out, so there's nothing keeping the drawer closed. <S> This only occurs on side mounted slides, not bottom mounted ones. <S> Usually the rubber bushings are riveted on. <S> Unless you can figure out some way to get a new bushing in there, you have to replace the drawer slides. <S> Consider it a normal wear item. <S> The other option is to realign the drawer slide so it closes by itself (i.e., tilt the slides down slightly in back), which is probably almost as frustrating as having it open by itself <A> It's opening either due to gravity, or something pushing on it. <S> Either way, solve the problem by adjusting the tracks. <S> Make the tracks themselves level or slightly past level. <S> Don't use the level on the drawer top, but on the tracks themselves. <S> You'll probably have to take the drawer out entirely to adjust the track screws inside the cabinet. <A> The tracks were level. <S> I think the second photo exaggerated the slant due to camera angle. <S> I actually wound up loosening the screws a bit and it completely fixed the problem. <S> When I tightened them again to test this, the problem started again. <A> Just had this start happening to our most used 8 yr old drawers and found Geoff's answer most helpful. <S> Found my rubber bushings and noticed <S> this drawer had a looser feel just as it was fully closed <S> so I suspected the bushing. <S> It's intact and not dried out. <S> I tried to see how it was attached and noticed it's not riveted - it slipped on like a collar, over a tab. <S> So not only is it easily replaceable when needed, <S> but I suspected the tab it slides over was bent back slightly from repeated drawer closing. <S> I bent both tabs forward slightly <S> (use your fingers, a pliers, or tap gently from the backside with a small hammer) and voila, problem solved. <S> Thanks for getting me thinking, Geoff!! <A> My drawer started drifting out after years working fine, and the tracks were still held firm and level, and all aspect of the drawer were identical to the one next to it <S> (or so it seemed). <S> After reading this post I loosened the screws and it started drifting out slower, then I tried screwing in a plastic bit on the back that didn't have a screw, but was looser than the drawer next to it. <S> That additional screw did the trick. <S> Screwing around works!
|
The tracks for the draw are not level, causing the drawer to tilt forward.
|
Should I trim or bend the lip to a strike plate? Inside my house, the strike plates are T-shaped and the protruding tongue sticks out 10-13 mm (3/8"-1/2"). Occasionally someone gets their clothing caught on the strike plate. It seems to me that these would do their job just as well if I cut the tongue nearly flush with the wood or bent the tongue far enough back that they wouldn't catch on clothing. Is this commonly done? <Q> Cutting it would be okay so long as you keep enough of the bend for it to function properly. <S> Having said that, the tab on that strike looks exceptionally long to me. <S> You might want to see if you can pick up a new one that has a more appropriately sized tab, it would be way easier than modifying the old one. <A> The strike plate that you have looks like a very odd ball unit. <S> It is either specially made for a specific application and misapplied here <S> OR is some artsy piece of hardware that is a PITA (as you have found out). <S> You should remove one and take it with you to the hardware or big-box store for size reference. <S> Then look for a much more conventional type of strike plate as shown below: As you can see this type of strike plate has nice curved edges that really help keep it from getting caught on clothing and other things. <S> Installing this type will require that you modify the shape of the inset in the door frame a small amount so that it can seat properly. <S> The normal tool used for this is a good sharp wood chisel. <A> They work well and don't look especially weird.
|
In the end I just marked the frame edge on each one, removed them and carefully bent them in a vice with a rubber mallet so that the tip of the metal tongue was flush with the woodwork when refitted.
|
How to pull toothbrush out of the sink? My toddler dropped a toothbrush down a bathroom sink. Unfortunately, the stopper wasn't in the sink at the time. When looking down from above the sink, I believe the toothbrush is in the PVC section of the picture, and leaning against the side. The PVC is a larger diameter so even if I could reach the toothbrush from above, I'd need to pull it center before pulling up. How do I remove the toothbrush and get the sink functional again? <Q> In my part of the world, PVC P-traps for sinks and basins are universally designed so that you can easily remove the U-bend from below without tools. <S> I wouldn't hesitate very long before undoing all the obvious nuts visible in your picture† and attempting to gain access to the U-bend. <S> In some cases a strap-wrench may be useful, but usually those joints between PVC sections are sealed by a simple rubber ring and shouldn't have any kind of putty or sealant applied (which can make them hard to remove by hand) <S> † <S> Obviously, except the one on the flexible tap connector(s)! <A> You could try using a pick-up or claw tool to reach down in the drain to grab it and pull it out. <S> Something like this one at Amazon.com . <A> Before you start taking things apart..... try this!Get a dowel and your glue gun. <S> Nothing to take apart! <S> This probably would not work for a small item in the water but worth a try!!!
|
Dab hot glue onto tip of dowel, quickly put down drain onto toothbrush ( or whatever you've dropped down there) leave for a minute or 2 and pull dowel out!!
|
How can I repair a ceiling fan that hums, but doesn't turn? The ceiling fan/light has power. The lights work, but the fan doesn't turn even though it hums. Why is this, and how can I fix it? <Q> Electrolytic capacitor on those old ceiling fans do go bad. <S> That'll cause the motor to run slow, just hum, or not run at all. <S> With a bad capacitor, it'll often start if you give the blades a push. <S> New capacitors are easy to find at your local big box or lighting stores, and also online . <A> I had the exact same issue after fitting my extractor. <S> The humming sound when I switched it on. <S> I discovered that it was due to the hole in the ceiling for the extraction being too tight this tightened in on the fan and prevented it from operating freely. <S> I made the hole larger to ensure the fan was loosely fitting. <S> It now operates perfectly. <S> I hope this helps. <A> I have just installed a new fan, and it was humming, but not spinning. <S> Found it hard to believe that the motor or capacitor was already bad, so i went at it pretty thoroughly. <S> this is the white plastic square plug with many wires. <S> I noticed one had pulled loose of the white cube. <S> I pushed it back in (these wires have "plugs" crimped onto the ends) to the cube, and that completely solved my problem. <S> Haven't seen this solution yet, so I hope it helps someone. <A> I just wanted to post what worked for me. <S> There are some common issues that can easily be fixed if you hear a hum <S> but it does not spin. <S> The bearing has seized. <S> If you open the fan up, take the motor apart, there is a bearing that spins the fan. <S> Spray that with some WD40 <S> and it will fix the issue (this fixed it for me). <S> The fuse is gone. <S> The wires have become loose. <S> Check to make sure that the soldering is secure at the ends of the wires to where they connect to the coils. <S> The motor is covered in dirt and dust. <S> Take the motor apart and vacuum out all of the debris. <S> Hope <S> this helps someone.
|
There will be a small fuse that needs replacing, this happens when the power gets too high for the fan. What i found to be the culprit, was a single wire has pulled loose of the wiring harness that connect the fan to the switch housing (or in some cases , light kit).
|
Remotely tracking room temperature with smartphone, tablet or laptop I need a way to remotely monitor the temperature of my room. It is very important to know (for health reasons) the temperature of a specific room in my home. In the future I will also look for a way to adjust the thermostat of the room or turn A/C on/off depending on the situation but now I am looking for a way to simply track the temperature of a room remotely using smartphone, tablet or laptop. Any of the three would suffice. <Q> For DIY you could use a RaspberryPi with a RaZberry (z-wave module for the Pi). <S> This way you can use standard z-wave products. <S> In this case a radiator thermostat. <A> Rasperry Pi <S> ( Appx $40 ) Dallas 1-wire <S> DS18B20 sensors <S> ( Appx $2.5 each ) <S> Spare Wire <S> The sensors can be connected to the Pi without requiring an external adapter, then you can run a Home Automation supervisor such as OpenHAB <S> to monitor it and triggers various actions with the inputs. <A> They have a special temperature package , but unfortunately their shop seems to be in German only. <S> There is another solution by Devolo . <S> Both of them use portal you connect to, and offer mobile apps to control your system. <S> But I think there are many other producers/distributors. <A> If you have a z-wave based home automation system like me, you can use : http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-everspring-temperature-and-humidity-sensor <S> (very accurate) <S> There are also equivalent temperature sensors for other types of home automation protocols. <S> Alternatively if you're looking for a solution that works on your phone without an external sensor and you have a phone that supports it, like the Galaxy S4 or Note 3, you should try this https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sensirion.ambientsensing&hl=en . <S> However, this approach is generally off by a few degrees also, but it is completely free if you happen to have the right devices. <S> :) <S> If you google what the temperature offset is, you could just guess what the actual temperature is. <A> http://www.smarthome.com/la-crosse-technology-server-room-wireless-temperature-and-humidity-monitor.html plus many others on <S> smarthome.com <S> Another solution is to get an insteon thermostat at smarthome with a universal devices ISY 994i series controller will allow for advanced automation in the future. <S> (disclaimer <S> : I have many insteon devices and a universal devices controller but no experience with thermostats) <S> (I am also considering moving to an open-source home automation system for advanced scripting capabilities, though the ISY is quite adequate for most applications and has less of a learning-curve) <A> For extra bonus, you could hook it up to <S> Xively and get graphs out of the system.
|
You could then use their system to have it report the temperature to their ecosystem with alerts if it goes below or above a certain point as well as looking at it any time you would want from anywhere. http://www.vesternet.com/z-wave-aeon-labs-multisensor (always reports the temperature a few degrees higher than the actual temperature, but it comes with other sensors built-in) Smart Things offers a temperature sensor . RaZberry comes with a web-app and mobile apps. But you have to bring your controlling web-app into the net and care about the security! If you are on the cheap and can afford running wires there is a cheap & efficient solution : One example for an out-of-the-box solution is RWE Smarthome
|
Plumbing: Two control points for shower I'm doing a remodel and I wanted to ask for your advice. I have a fairly large shower spanning the entire width of the bathroom (see the plan below). I'd like to set up the showerhead at one end of the shower (the furthest point from the 5'6" unmovable glass door) - but I worry that with that plan, I won't be able to turn the shower on without getting wet before the water warms up. What I would like to do ideally is to have the showerhead where it is on the plan, have the mixer right there, but add a secondary set of flow controls where the red arrow is on the plan. Is that possible? Is it crazy? What kind of equipment would I need to add to make that happen? Thanks in advance! <Q> Sure I think you could do this. <S> You'd need another set of supply lines at the other side, and a second valve. <S> You'd then run the pipe for the shower head to the other side of the shower and T it in with the other shower head pipe. <S> The only downside I can think of is the cost - a good thermostatic valve is expensive! <A> It sounds like what you really need is a remote controlled shower valve and temperature controller. <S> Most major manufacturers are offering these now including the likes of Kohler, Moen and others. <S> These give you remote digital control of your shower including temperature, timer mode, warm up mode and flow rate control. <S> If you're not prepared for the relatively high cost of these systems then I guess you will just decide to get all wet. <A> You could leave the mixer set at the temperature and flow rate that you normally use, the upstream valves would basically be remote shut-offs to be opened fully when preparing to shower.
|
Simple (and cheap) method would be to install the mixing valve set of your choice for the wall with the shower head and install two simple control valves upstream of the mixing valve unit, one for hot and one for cold.
|
Is peel and stick vinyl tile flooring really waterproof? I am installing these tiles in a bathroom mainly used my youngsters in a bath. When they inevitably splash water on the floor won't the seems in these tiles allow the water to pass through. I really want to do the flooring install myself and want to give these tiles ago. What can I do to prevent any water getting through the gaps? Is caulking a viable alternative? <Q> They are waterproof in that you can get the top as wet as you want. <S> They are not waterproof in that they will keep water off your floor, nor will said water not affect the bond to the floor. <S> but they will not keep water from getting underneath. <S> Your only options are really one sheet of vinyl or tile (could I guess use a membrane). <S> If you install these right though I would bet that 99% of the water (given you don't just let an inch of standing water sit) will never meet your subfloor. <S> To keep your bathroom better suited for a kid you may want to make sure baseboard are sitting right on these and caulk between baseboard and tile. <A> The tile you liked says "waterproof: no" in the specifications. <S> I suggest plank-style vinyl flooring that clicks together without adhesive. <A> I used peel and stick in a kitchen bathroom makeover. <S> I used a vinyl glue. <S> with the tiles. <S> They lasted through 11 grand children. <S> The added adhesive helped protect the floor and improved adhesive nature of tiles. <S> Getting ready to do it again. <A> The previous owners of my house put peel and stick tiles over the old vinyl in the laundry room. <S> Well our washer leaked a little from a loose connection, cleaned it up right away but noticed water coming from the edges of the tile when I stepped on them. <S> Long story short, we now have to rip up the entire floor because the water is under all of them. <S> These would be great for a kitchen <S> but I would never put these in a bathroom or laundry room.
|
These tiles may be able to last sitting in water No caulk is needed, just make sure that all of the edges are tight and clicked into place.
|
Is the Nest thermostat smart enough to turn itself on BEFORE you get home? I'm wondering if in "Away" mode, is Nest smart enough to learn about when you come home, and kick on approximately 30-40 minutes BEFORE then? Or does it only kick on when it senses you've come home? Also, can you control how much it lowers the temperature in Away mode? Further, if you adjust the temperature manually over the internet (say, just before you leave work), does that count towards teaching it when it should turn on? I'm basically wondering just how smart its auto functions are, because if they're not smart, then I would rather just spend $30 on a programmable unit rather than $250 for Nest. <Q> The Nest saves people money simply because most people can't/won't program their thermostats. <S> Where the Nest will mostly auto program itself based on your away/home and manual thermostat changes. <S> You can set the temp ranges for away as well as another emergency min/max for when the unit is turned 'off' (this can prevent frozen pipes). <S> The unit can also be set to start before the program schedule time to warm/cool. <S> But if you go out for a night, the unit then goes into a non-scheduled auto away <S> it will wait until it detects movement before it will kick the heat/ac back on. <A> The Nest thermostat saves you money because of it's "intelligence" <S> It learns how long it needs to get from it's present temperature to the required temperature, it monitors this continually. <S> The need for wifi is so it can get weather data for your postcode/zip code which helps with it's decision making. <S> Due to this knowledge it will be able to either come on early or later due to weather conditions. <S> As it knows how long to change temperature it can also switch off early because it knows that there is enough heat already in the system to raise the temperature up to the desired setting. <S> A normal room stat set at 22c or 70f will switch off at 22/70 but temperature can rise another 1,2 or 3 degrees c/8f, that's a fair amount of energy saved. <S> You can set a minimum temperature for away mode and you can set another minimum temperature for when it's off i.e. 18c in away and 9c when off (frost protection etc) <S> I installed one early November and we can see the difference now in comfort and costs. <S> We have turned it down from 24c to 22c at peak times and it settles at 20.5 for most of the evening when my wife is watching TV <S> Just one other thing, you don't need wifi to use it, wifi is there for remote control and weather data and the wireless connection is just to control the system by the thermostat. <S> You can override if you want by pressing the front of the heat link if you're having problems. <A> You can set up schedules on the Nest. <S> After that, enable a feature called 'Early-On.' <S> This will make sure the temperature is what you want it to be at the given time. <S> For example, if you set 70 degrees at 6pm, it will be 70s at 6pm when Early-On is enabled. <S> On traditional digital thermostats, 70 degrees at 6pm would mean the thermostat turns to 70 degrees at 6pm but may not reach the temperature for an hour or so. <S> Another great reason to get a Nest. <S> https://nest.com/support/article/What-is-Early-On <A> No. <S> It's not as smart as I'd hoped. <S> When I walk in the front door after being gone all summer day, my house is hot. <S> I used Google maps to drive home.e, so why didn't Nest realize I'd be home in about 40 minutes and start cooking it down? <S> I stead <S> , it waited u til <S> I was in the front door and then proudly announced it would be two hours until my house cooled off. <S> This is dumb.
|
Nest will learn your routine to some extent by the changes you make to the settings.
|
How to attach metal knife rack to tile without ruining tile? I'd like to attach a magnetic, metal knife rack to a tile back splash in the kitchen of my rental apartment. The tile is glazed white and the attachment points on the rack are small (about 0.9 sq in of metal). The rack weighs 2.5lb and with the knives and a margin for error, we're looking at about 5.25lbs total weight. Lsat week I asked for guidance on choosing an adhesive, but that was roundly identified as a bad idea. Now I'm looking for alternatives. Since it's a rental, I'm not willing to break the tile (or risk breaking it). Could I drill into the grout? There are white formica wooden cabinets on either side, but I don't know how to drill into those in such a way that I could patch it later without being obvious. Could I use a horizontal tension rod between the cabinets? Could I use vertical tension rods between the sink and the cabinet above the sink? <Q> If the tiles have a non-porous glaze, an adhesive over a larger contact area should work fine. <S> Adhesive Joint Strength and Surface Area <S> The strength of the adhesive joint is proportional to the area in contact. <S> This is how drywallers hang 100lb sheets of drywall with adhesive and almost no screws: <S> Because of the large area over which the adhesive spreads the holding force to the studs or joists. <S> The larger the sheet of drywall, the larger the adhesive surface area, the higher the holding strength. <S> Adapter Plate <S> Because the rack's mounts have small surface area, you would build an adapter plate with adequate adhesive contact surface area to support the weight. <S> You mount the rack to the plate and adhere the plate to the tile. <S> Suppose the plate had an area <S> 4"x4" in contact with tile. <S> That bond will be 20x the strength of the 0.9"x0.9" area of your existing mounts. <S> Increasing the contact area is how you get strength from your adhesive joint. <S> Adhesive Type <S> Once you've increased the contact surface area, you are no longer requiring anything extraordinary from your adhesive. <S> You don't want something with too much holding force per unit area because it will take too much force to pop the plate off when you're done. <S> Plate Material <S> Ideally the plate material is something slightly flexible so that you can peel rather than pop the adhesive joint when you remove it. <S> If the plate is rigid then you'll be applying the entire failure force to the tile when you remove it. <S> This could crack or lift the tile. <S> On the other hand, a flexible plate allows you to peel the plate which means overcoming only a small area of holding strength at a time. <S> This is the exact same principle as peeling scotch tape. <S> Sacrificial Test <S> To be safe you'll want to test a representative mockup of an adapter plate and tile to test the following: the plate/tile bond is adequate to support the weight <S> the adhesive can be removed without marking or marring the tile or grout <S> you can pop the plate from the tile without breaking or lifting the tile <A> Command Strips are definitely worth a shot for attaching the knife rack, and will do absolutely no damage. <S> The large picture hanging strips can hold significant weight, and can be cut to a size that will fit and be hidden. <S> Do make sure to keep the tab in tact so that you can easily remove them when you move out. <S> For $4, 5 minutes, and no risk of damage, it seems like a really good option: http://www.amazon.com/Command-Large-Picture-Hanging-Strips-4-Strip/dp/B00404YKZI <A> Drilling into the tile or grout is your most secure option. <S> To do that, you will need a tile or glass bit. <S> Glass bits are best because in my experience they cut clean holes with minimal jitter. <S> It will work if you want to drill the tile directly or just the grout. <S> Don't push hard though! <S> It is slow drilling, but very effective. <S> If you push hard, you will wear the bit out in a few moments. <S> Also, I recommend you put tape over the spot you want to drill, to prevent cracking and damage.
|
I would guess that something like silicon tiling caulk that is designed for clean removal from tile would work best.
|
Is it okay to connect 2 ground wires to a single ground screw? I have 2 ground wires that I can get around the ground screw on an outlet. Is it okay to do this or do I need to use a pigtail to join the wires and have only one wire attach to the ground screw? <Q> In all my years I have never seen a device ground screw rated for two conductors. <S> Even clamp type ground connectors found on GFI devices are only rated for one conductor. <S> You will need to pigtail a single wire to the device. <S> This can be achieved several ways. <S> A green wire nut, a ground crimp, or a standard wire nut are examples. <A> The reason that wiring devices have grounding connections that accept only one wire is that otherwise, if two ground wires were connected to the device, then if someone later removed that wiring device and then re-applied power without wire-nutting the grounding conductors, there would be a break in the ground path for the downstream wiring but perhaps not the hot wires. <A> <A> No you can't. <S> If two ground wires went to a device, like they do with hots on receptacles, then if you remove the receptacle (say for servicing), you cut that ground to downstream appliances. <S> Thanks to MWBCs and the retrofit rules, it's possible that ground may serve things that are not on this breaker. <S> In fact, MWBCs have the same rule for neutrals - "pigtail it, mustn't sever neutral for downline appliances". <S> That's because older MWBCs are on separate breakers, and that neutral could be returning current for another breaker that you didn't think to turn off. <S> (this is why MWBCs currently require a "common maintenance shutoff" breaker).
|
Most screw terminals are designed for only a single wire. You must be able to remove devices without severing ground You must pigtail it - always with grounds!
|
Need some help removing a kitchen sink drain I'm trying to remove the drain/flange from a kitchen sink so that I can install a garbage disposal unit. I can not get the wide nut on the underside of the sink to turn. I'm assuming it's glued or rusted or painted into place. Is there any sort of special tool to help remove it or anything I can do to try and loosen it up? Right now I'm just using a 12 inch groove joint plier to try and remove it. It's just barely big enough to get a grip on it. Attached is a photo of the underside of the sink <Q> Tap (don't overdo it and break the "ears") with a hammer and nail or hammer and punch against the projecting "ears" - and do as many of them as you can easily reach, rather than only tapping on the most accessible one (at least until the thing starts to move.) <S> Scribe a line before you start that goes across both parts so you can detect even a small movement. <S> The shock of tapping may start to move things where grabbing with pliers won't budge it. <S> If no joy, add heat - use a serious heat gun if you have one, or a torch VERY carefully and pretty much so far out that the flame isn't directly contacting the sink parts, at least at first. <A> These can be found at your local home improvement or plumbing supply store. <S> You might be able to turn the drain instead of the bolt in order to remove it. <A> Another idea that may be necessary if the thing is so rusted and corroded is to cut the lower section of the basket assembly off. <S> This can be done by several methods. <S> The easiest one may be to cut into the side of the lower assembly along one side (vertically) with a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. <S> It may be necessary to cut it on only one side or both. <S> When cutting be careful not to grind up into the sink casting. <S> After it is cut you can open up the cut with a chisel or pry bar. <S> This will relieve the threads and allow you to peel off the lower basket assembly. <A> A sufficiently large strap wrench could be used. <S> But at some point tool cost may approach the cost of fixture replacement. <A> When the nut is stuck that well, the basket has a tendency to start to slip before the nut. <S> So instead of twisting the nut loose, you'll end up spinning the basket. <S> At this point it's likely you'll have to replace the basket anyway, so trying to save it could be a moot point. <S> I'd start by trying to crack the nut. <S> Use a hacksaw blade or oscillating tool, and cut as far through the nut as you can. <S> Make two cuts, one on each side of the basket. <S> Do your best not to damage the threads of the basket, but don't worry too much since the basket is easily replaced. <S> Once you have the two cuts, try to break the nut into two pieces. <S> Use a flathead screwdriver or cold chisel, and poke, twist, and pry at the notches you cut. <S> NOTE: <S> If this is a one piece sink, and that's not a seperate basket. <S> Disregard the above.
|
A Tub Drain Removal Wrench might help in this scenario.
|
How can I seal air leaks and otherwise winterize, as a renter? As winter arrives I am finding cold air leaks all over my apartment. Various parts of my sliding windows, light switches, power outlets, etc. Unfortunately, I rent, so caulk and expanding foam aren't options for me. I need solutions that aren't quite permanent, and won't do too much damage when they are removed. I know about weather stripping for the non-sliding parts of my doors and windows. I don't have a good idea for the parts that slide against each other (like the tracks for the window). I can put plastic child-proof plugs in the electrical outlets to stop air from coming straight out of those holes, but that doesn't help with leaks between the outlet and the faceplate, or between the faceplate and the wall. Is there some sort of tape I can put there, preferably clear or available in colors that might match my faceplates? PS: Of course I am also going to use curtains. <Q> For outlets, there are pre-cut foam gaskets that fit under the faceplates. <S> You could leave those or remove when you go, as you prefer. <S> Peel them off in the spring. <S> Horribly stinky stuff, but it did peel off with no damage in the spring. <A> I have been using this weatherseal tape for a couple of years now: Frost King Weatherseal Tape . <S> It does a good job of sealing around leaky window frames. <S> Of course you have to pull it off in the spring (except on windows you don't need to open). <S> Seems to be good at not pulling off paint (not perfect!). <S> I prefer it to the shrink film, because I find that obscures the view. <A> for sliding doors, use something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-8659-Weatherstrip-18-Feet/dp/B000LNS8DM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2 <S> It is a form of weatherstripping specific for sliding doors/windows. <S> Have a warm winter! <S> Fellow renter <A> Window shrink-wrap kits can be a significant improvement. <S> (They're basically low-cost/disposable interior storm windows.) <A> Peal and seal is a product that is like silicone <S> but it is easily removeable when you want to remove it <S> and it drys almost instantly.. <S> I've only seen it in clear color <S> but it is wonderful stuff. <S> If you have ever gotten a credit card in the mail, its the "gummy" adhesive they use on the back of the card to secure it to the paper.
|
For windows that you will leave closed all winter, shrink film window sealing kits cover the whole window (best to put them all the way to the outside edge of the frame) and are fairly clear and non-obtrusive once shrunk, plus they seal the whole window (frame and all) if done that way. I have used removable caulk on one building.
|
What size electric service do I need? My son and I are building a house at the beach. I currently have a 100 amp temp service and my question is “can I get everything I need on the service to pass code if I keep it at 100 or 125Amps”? The inspector is telling me that I can only use 80% or 80 amps if I keep the box at 100 amps but that doesn’t seem right because the load center that I bought has a 100 amp main breakers and 145amps worth of branch breakers that came with it when I bought it new. I have been reading the NEC codes and the way I understand it I need 2ea 20 Amp 120 circuit plus 1ea 50 Amp 240 circuit for the kitchen, 30 Amps 240 for heating and I have an AC unit that runs off of 20 Amps 240. Which adds up to 110 Amps before I do an outlet or light circuit so I must be figuring this wrong. Should I be figuring by watts or volts instead? <Q> My advice would be to install the largest service that you can get regardless of how much you plan on using in the short term. <S> Reasons: <S> In most residential areas, you pay for what you use, not overall capacity <S> There might not be capacity on the transformer later when you need it <S> Replacing the feeder cables can be very expensive Replacing the meter and panel <S> later is expensive <S> You won't have to worry about it again <S> Years ago, a lot of houses only had 60amp service. <S> Consumption increased for a while especially with the increase in electronics and lighting, but now with LED, it looks like it might be going the other way again. <S> Also consider what amenities you might add later. <S> A pool, hot tub and second kitchen can easily put you over capacity if only have a small service. <A> The NEC has some minimums that must be included that often push homes over 100 Amps. <S> I'm assuming electric applinaces. <S> 220.82(B)(1) <S> = <S> 3VA per square foot. <S> Assume 1,500 sf home = <S> 4,500VA 220.82(B)(2) <S> = <S> 4,500VA (2 kitchen circuits + 1 laundry at 1,500VA each) 220.82(B)(3) = <S> 5,000VA clothes dryer; (220.54) <S> = 4,500VA water heater; = 8,000VA range. <S> (220.55) 220.82(B)(4) = <S> any other motors like pumps. <S> 220.82(B) <S> = <S> 4,500 + 4,500 + 5,000 + 4,500 + 8,000 <S> = 26,500VA <S> = <S> 40% anything above 10,000VA <S> = 16,600VA <S> = 69.2 Amps @ <S> 240V <S> 220.82(C) = <S> Add A/C nameplate. <S> 2-ton is about 17.6 Amps <S> 69.2A <S> + <S> 17.6A = 86.8 Amps @ <S> 240 Volts. <S> This is the bare minimum for a 1,500sf house. <S> And other known loads connected need to be added. <S> I'd suggest new homes get a 200A service size. <S> The 80% rule is from 210.20. <S> It is often misunderstood, even by inspectors and electricians. <S> Loads are separated into two categories, continuous and noncontinuous loads. <S> All breakers and fuses are rated for 100% of noncontinuous loads + 125% of continuous loads. <S> The inverse of 125% is 80%. <S> So a 100A panel can only hold 80A of continuous loads. <S> Section 100 defines continuous load as any load that runs at peak amperage for 3 hours or more. <S> This is different than being "on" for 3 hours. <S> I contacted a kiln manufacturer when I was green because their listed amperage was 49.5A on a 50A outlet. <S> I thought I knew more than them and pointed out the 80% rule, kilns run all night, well more than 3 hours. <S> They pointed out to me that the kiln cycles on and off to maintain the temperature inside. <S> The peak amperage is not continuous. <S> I had a "duh" moment. <S> There's not a lot of stuff that runs at peak amperage for 3 hours or more. <A> I cannot think of any reason not to install a 200 amp service. <A> It is an old post, but I thought it might be important to note this for others that might come upon this looking for answers. <S> I believe the initial poster was confused about what a 100 amp service actually is, and nobody seemed to catch it, he was confusing his panel with the service. <S> The service size has everything to do with the size of the cable that comes from the street to your house, and nothing to do with panel size. <S> If you have a 100 amp service and you need more, you can't just buy a new panel, you need to upgrade the service to your house!
|
Regardless of how big a panel you think you have, if you have a 100 amp service running to your house that is all you get! 200amps is pretty typical for a lot of residential areas in North America. It's best to size load by Watts (or Volt-Amps).
|
How can I secure wire fished between two plastic switch boxes? I have two light switches in two separate plastic switch boxes. The upper box controls the motor of a fan, and the bottom switch controls some outlets. I want to change the wiring so that the bottom switch controls the light on the fan. Since the wiring for the fan came into the upper box, I plan to fish new wire from the light in the upper box to the lower box, and connect that to the lower switch. However, this post says that the new wire must be clamped to the switch box, since it is nonmetallic. Unlike the box in that question, my switch box does not have clamps, and looks like this: How can I secure the wiring to the switch box? Edit: Just to be clear, the switch boxes are already in the wall and are connected as described above. I am just trying to modify the wiring. I would rather not remove or replace the boxes if possible. <Q> That box does have clamps. <S> The "flaps" that cover the holes are clamps. <S> You push the cable in, and the clamps prevent it from sliding back out. <A> You can get a dual switch that will fit in a single-gang box. <S> Then you don't need to rewire that bottom box at all. <S> A picture of the wires coming into that top box would be useful to confirm the feasibility of this project. <A> Type MC cable can be fished, but will not work with that style of box.
|
NM cable cannot be fished, because it needs to be secured to the framing of the structure within 8 to 12 inches of the box (the "clamps" in the box do not count). Also, you need to be sure that the top box and fan are wired such that it is possible to separately work the fan and light.
|
Can I change the fire rating of 1/2 inch drywall? I currently have 1/2 drywall on my wall sepating the garage, which is now an accesory apartment. The house was built in 1975. Code says it must be 5/8. It is not possible to take everthing down to add more drywall. Is there another way to increase the fire rating, by either a product I paint on or spray on? I am getting ready for an inspection, just looking at other options I can run by the inspector if he doesn't like what I have. They tell me they are trying to work with me to get this apartment passed and legal. Both sides of the wall in question have 1/2 inch drywall. <Q> It is just a paint now. <S> 3 coats would add 20 minutes or so to the fire rating of the drywall. <S> Here, narrow clearance homes are required to use intumescent coated OSB on the outside walls. <S> These paints can withstand up to a year of exposure before being covered up so bad weather is no longer an issue as it used to be just a few years ago. <S> The old stuff was PVA resin and water soluble (almost edible) ingredients. <S> Now we have encapsulated stuff with tough, exterior grade thermoplastics as the binder. <S> Things have changed :) <A> You're approaching this backwards. <S> If there is any mitigation that you would need to do, the inspector would have to approve it. <S> You should therefore ask your inspector this question; he/she will be happy to tell you. <A> and there's living space above it. <S> But it sounds like it's not a garage anymore, and <S> if there's no living space above it, then you doubly don't need 5/8" drywall. <S> Regardless, you shouldn't have to pass a drywall inspection unless you're already altering the drywall there in which case. <S> Older houses are generally grandfathered into new codes as long as you don't touch the thing that's out of compliance. <S> Bottom line, if you were told this by an inspector, he may be wrong (codes are complicated and they're busy and human). <S> If you're looking it up yourself and worrying about being unsafe/out of compliance, then don't worry about it-- <S> you're fine. <A> If this is a code requirement that the city is demanding of you, see if they'll accept a layer of gypsum veneer plaster over the top of the 1/2" drywall. <S> The National Gypsum association gives such an assembly a 1 hour fire rating if you use their special fire-resistive backer-board: http://www.nationalgypsum.com/File/goldd.pdf <S> See if your inspector will be reasonable. <S> Alternatively, perhaps they'll accept a layer of 1/4" drywall over the existing stuff. <A> The proper installation of intumescent paint to create a fire barrier is not a do it yourself project. <S> though in theory an intumescent paint might work, in practice, magic-in-a-can tends to be impractical in anything but a corner case in commercial contexts and adding additional layers of gypsum board is inevitably the preferred solution based on cost, ease of proper installation, and trade base. <A> Thanks for all the ideas. <S> I was being proactive in searching out ways to improve the fire rating if the inspector did not accept the current conditons. <S> The end result was that all the inspector asked for was a smoke alarm hard wired between the two units. <S> So it is all done, and I now have a registered legal apartment.
|
Normal drywall might be less fire-resistive, but applying gypsum veneer plaster is sure to raise it. Inspectors aren't supposed to make you upgrade older stuff that was compliant at the time it was installed if it's not being altered now. Intumescent coatings have evolved (I formulate them). 5/8" drywall is only required nowadays if it's still actually garage
|
How can I move hot air from a cathedral ceiling to colder bedrooms? My main living room has a 25 foot cathedral ceiling with a ceiling fan including a staircase going to the second story bedrooms. The thermostat is situated in this space. There is space to install a vent and ducts to move air from this ceiling hot zone to the first floor main bedroom. I would like to create a system that has: Has two temperature probes - one in a the "hot" area and the other in the "cold" area. Controller which will detect if there is a "Max" difference between the hot and cold zone, Start the fan in the new duct which will stop when the second "Min" temperature difference between the hot and cold zone is reached. Is there something like this commercially available or do I have to cobble it together myself with a 1-wire system or multiple thermostats? <Q> I suspect this will be a DIY project. <S> Note that an alternative would be to simply install ceiling fans in the cathedral ceiling room to circulate its air better, removing most of the stratification you now experience. <S> (I've got upstairs/downstairs zones myself, with definite air exchange at the stairwell. <S> I've considered installing a vertical tube with a boxer fan or two to get some counterflow there. <S> Simpler alternative might simply to be to close the doors of the upstairs rooms, or to install a door at the landing, to limit the airflow.) <A> I had to construct my own solution with a new duct line using an inline 720 CFM Inline Fan, 8-Inch sitting in the attic. <S> A Samsung SmartThings IOT (Zigby) system was used to monitor temperatures and turn the fan on. <S> A motion sensor with built in temperature was installed at each ducting endpoint. <S> A smart wall switch was used to drive the fan. <S> I could manually turn the fan or drive it with SmartThings custom smart controller. <S> I created own SmartThings controller to monitor temperatures in the two rooms to switch the fan on when the temperature delta is over a certain value. <S> Worked OK but attic fan was a little loud and a mild winter this year made it somewhat redundant. <A> My father in law got some flexible ducting, maybe 6" in diameter or more and hooked a fan to it on the intake side that blows air into the pipe. <S> He has a "Sun Room" that gets pretty warm, and it funnels the air into the house in the winter. <S> He heats with a wood burner in the basement <S> so it's a big deal to use the extra heat source. <S> Sounds like you want to rig something like that up. <S> I can get more details on the fan he used if you care, but <S> I'm betting it's not rocket science to set something up. <A> Then run some duct work or flexible tubing into the HVAC duct system where you want it to go (or optionally just add a vent somewhere for the air to come out) <S> A fan that size can be very quiet which is good and the throughput of a small fan is low enough that you could probably get away with 2" flex tubing so it could go pretty much anywhere. <S> Only drawback it <S> this system wouldn't give you your two location temperature reading. <S> You could likely wire two of them up (and at 15 bucks a piece getting two isn't a big deal) and feed them both to an electronic switch at the fan, but that complexity of wiring is beyond me <S> so I am not sure how it would work. <S> There are also multi-zone thermostats you could check out. <S> Not terribly familiar with them <S> but it may be an avenue for you to research at least. <S> Edit: <S> Ok <S> I was curious <S> so I went out and looked some things up... <S> if you are willing to spend more time an money a system like this (scroll to the <S> What Zoned Temperature Control is and why you need it section) would solve this problem nicely. <S> , I have no experience with it, but the explanation of what Multi zone is and how it works is useful.
|
A thermostat like this could do the trick for you, just wire it to something like a bathroom vent fan in the ceiling. I am not recommending that particular product mind you
|
How do I replace the toilet shutoff valve? Since the shutoff valve is leaking (the packing inside is worn), I'd like to replace it. Is the valve soldered onto the supply pipe, or is it a threaded connection? <Q> That looks like a 1/2" copper pipe with the valve soldered on. <S> Definitely check it with a magnet before trying to wrench it off. <S> If it is copper and you are not handy with soldering, you could replace it fairly easily using a valve with a compression fitting inlet: You will have to carefully cut the pipe behind the existing valve, and use steel wool and/or some emery cloth to clean up that oxidation/corrosion on the copper pipe. <S> My personal preference is to solder a threaded male adapter onto the pipe and using a new threaded supply valve with 1/2" FIP inlet: <A> You can try a magnet to the pipe to see of it is an iron or steel pipe. <S> The magnet will be readily attracted to the iron pipe. <S> Copper will not be attracted by the magnet. <S> From the looks of it in the picture I would say that it is a galvanized iron pipe. <S> To properly remove the valve from the pipe extension you are going to want to use two tools, one to keep the pipe extension out of the wall from turning and the other to turn the valve. <S> An appropriate tool for keeping the pipe from turning will look like one of these: <S> The tool to turn the valve assembly could be one of these: <S> The reason it is so important to keep the pipe extension from turning is so that you do not loosen the threaded connection in the wall which could lead to a leak there. <S> When you have the valve off it would be a good opportunity to replace the very rusty escutcheon plate that is against the wall. <A> That looks like a Brasscraft valve. <S> I bought a repair kit at Home Depot <S> (Lowess didn't have it) for a few bucks. <S> Pretty easy to install and that fixed it. <S> Here's a link to a Dano (aftermarket) repair kit: http://www.amazon.com/Danco-88001-Repair-Brasscraft-Stops/dp/B000HE6OPE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1416804275&sr=8-3&keywords=brasscraft+stop+valve+repair+kit
|
An iron pipe will have a threaded connection to the valve.
|
Mounting Full Motion Mount on a Single Stud I've seen this question regarding a sheet metal stud, but my plan and situation are a bit different. I am curious if ananyone thinks this sounds secure: I have a full motion flat screen wall mount for "up to 70 in." televisions. My tv is 50 inches and weighs approximately 50 lbs. The mount weighs maybe 15 lbs and is only 16 inches long (studs over my fireplace are 22 inches apart). There is however, one stud directly in the center. Is it safe to attach the mount to the single stud with two 2.5 inch lag bolts at the top and bottom center, and 100 lb rated drywall anchors on all four corners? <Q> Or toggles in to metal studs. <S> Since the load is mostly shear and not pull-out, this is fairly safe. <S> (Provided the drywall is thick enough, the anchors are installed correctly, the wall is properly supported, and lots of other considerations too numerous to go in to here.) <S> However, adjustable, articulating or arm mounts should never be used on just drywall or metal studs. <S> No matter what anchor you use, drywall and metal studs can not handle the pull out force applied when a TV is extended or tilted away from the wall. <S> So either get a flush mount, or open the drywall and install appropriate wooden studs. <A> If it is a single metal stud, I would suggest you look into the snaptoggles (aka toggle straps, toggler bolts) that you can attach to metal studs and/or drywall. <S> and if it is a wood stud in the middle, consider using the same snaptoggles for the other 4 corners that are only in drywall since they claim to hold over 200 lbs. <S> in 1/2 inch drywall. <S> I am also planning to mount into drywall that has metal studs and as the other commenter suggested, I plan to go with the wood panel support solution thanks. <A> Your idea is exactly what I would do <S> and I have mounted hundreds of TVs. <S> I have mounted lots of larger / heavier TVs on drywall only with high quality anchors. <S> Hit that one stud and it will carry the lion's share of the weight, the anchors will just keep it nice and flat. <S> My suggestions: Don't just trust a stud finder. <S> Drill a series of tiny holes horizontally <S> so you know right where the center of the stud is. <S> You can also just poke a finishing nail or etc through the drywall. <S> These holes will be behind the mount so they won't be visible. <S> (If you ever remove the mount you'll have to paint anyway.) <S> Use 1/4" lag screws and washers, washers are important. <S> Drill a 3/16" pilot hole for the lag screws. <S> Get it tight but not so tight <S> it deforms the sheet metal. <S> This only takes a few minutes and will make it as strong as possible. <S> These two lags could carry way more than the weight of the TV. <S> Now in the corners, I have a specific product suggestion: <S> http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/overview.php <S> I'd use the Snaptoggle BB, the 1/4" size. <S> You could probably hold the mount and TV with just these without hitting the stud, but it's safer to hit the stud.
|
Toggles and other heavy weight drywall anchors can be suitable for TV mounts when the mount is flush. Just make sure you really hit the stud!
|
Why is there increased dryer motor hum while powered by a generator? We have an off grid home, solar powered 120v. While running the home on the backup generator (also charging batteries), the drum motor on the propane dryer has an increasing noise, then gets to a point where it trips the breaker on the generator, but the breaker on the manual transfer box (30 amps) and the 20amp breaker in the main panel are unaffected. I have check voltage and frequency at the dryer outlet with the generator running (dryer not plugged in the outlet), 119-121 volts and 59-61 hz which should be very acceptable. Also in a possible related sense, we have 4 ceiling fans 2 of which also get the hum situation but no issue with breakers. <Q> Is your generator producing true sine wave, modified sine wave, or square wave output? <S> The motor's designed to work on sine-wave AC, which is what large generators are happiest producing, and which is generally the most efficient form since all the energy goes into the single frequency and can be easily drawn back out. <S> Square wave is easier for small alternators to produce, but has a lot of high harmonics which can cause resonance in motors, sometimes to the point of being damaging. <S> Square-wave alternators may also be damaging to some electronics, for similar reasons. <S> "Modified sine wave" is a compromise between the two -- it adds another few steps between the most-positive and most-negative outputs. <S> This reduces the harmonics to a level that most motors and electronics can handle safely. <S> There are still going to be some harmonics, which may be made audible by the motor, but they shouldn't be strong enough to be damaging. <S> If you've got a square-wave unit, consider replacing it. <S> If you've got a modified-sine unit and are still having trouble... <S> well, switching to true sine wave will probably solve it, but you might want to get someone with expertise in this system to take a look at your set-up before you commit to that purchase. <A> It sounds like the inverter is producing a cleaner sine wave than the generator. <S> Your TRMS meter might show 120 volts and 60Hz but isn't telling you the whole story. <S> In other words, the sine wave is distorted with harmonics. <S> The hum is telling you the story. <A> I am the one that posted the original issue. <S> After research and consideration of what is happening, I believe that what is going on is that there is an imbalance in the way the generator/inverter is wired. <S> I looked at the inverter/charger wire diagram and I am sure that the leg that feeds the charger is the same that is powering a larger portion of the home requirements, that being those kitchen lights, washer and dryer. <S> The other leg is feeding a tv, a couple living room lights and a well pump that has a max of 1200 watts when running which should be a non-issue. <S> We run the generator at night as most usage is lower at that time. <S> I am going to swap the two feeds at the main breaker. <S> A key thing happened is that I discovered the inverter generator was operating along with the circuits that run the dryer etc, and the twist lock had backed out some and there was no power to a portion of the home, that being the other leg from the generator... <S> I thought the gen had an issue <S> but it was the connection at the twist lock. <S> I'll be back with the answer.
|
Thinking is that what is being heard is the generator going into surge (the hum that starts low and increases) and then trips the breaker.
|
What are the code regulations for stairs off an exterior french door? Do the stairs off my french doors need to be the width of both doors or can they be just the width of the most used side? How big does the landing have to be at the top and bottom? Can I just attach a guardrail to the exterior and forgo the stairs? <Q> You can put a guard rail in front of the inactive one, then have a smaller landing. <S> That will look a little odd in my opinion though. <A> Model building codes rarely have exemptions for less used doors. <S> However, a myriad of model building code compliant configurations is possible provided that among other things: The overall configuration of doors and stairs complies with all the requirements for landings at both doors. <S> The overall configuration complies with the requirements for guards and handrails. <S> Keep in mind that to be code compliant, the construction must meet all the requirements of the code, not just selected sections. <A> I can't speak for specific codes but have remodeled houses in at least 15 different counties and a few countries. <S> No inspector would ever let me have french doors opening to either a drop-off or guard rail. <S> There is exactly no way around this. <S> If you don't want wide stairs than I suggest that you create a small landing area - at least one foot wider than the width of the doors - and then do the steps on the side you want. <S> I know that this may not work with your surroundings <S> but you haven't let us know the whole layout.
|
If the door can be opened, it must have a landing on the outside, minimally 36"X36", but in your case, it must be the width of the doors X 36" deep from the house. You must have a proper step off on all doors, whether they will be used or not.
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.