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Wiring residential internet router through existing smoke detector My internet router is setup at one end of the house thus the other end gets bad coverage. I'd like to move it at the center of the house to provide better coverage. The gear in question is located in the basement, everything is opened and wired at the moment. Here is the center of the house, note the smoke detector: Essentially, could I branch off the smoke detector to power the router (residential unit provided by my ISP)? Edit #1 Per the comments below, I'll attempt to use the light fixture that is nearby: I was only thinking of using the smoke detector as it was closer. Now I wonder if it's advisable if I branch off a 4th line from the light fixture? <Q> No. <S> National Electrical Code 2011 <S> Chapter 7 Special Conditions Article 760 Fire Alarm Systems <S> 760.41 NPLFA Circuit Power Source Requirements (B) Branch Circuit. <S> The locationof the branch circuit overcurrent protective device shallbe permanently identified at the fire alarm control panel. <S> This branch circuit shall not be supplied through ground-faultcircuit interrupters or arc-fault circuit-interrupters. <S> The 2008 version was a bit vague about this, but the 2011 version leaves no doubt. <S> You'll have to find a power source somewhere else. <S> While this code snippet may not be applicable to smoke detectors, it's still good advice to keep smoke detectors on their own circuit (in my opinion). <A> I'll have to disagree with Tester101 here. <S> It is extremely common to have smokes and CO detectors on a lighting circuit <S> so they cannot be easily or conveniently turned off. <S> IMO powering a receptacle for a router <S> is fine since the router is a negligible draw, and if it is off for any reason you will quickly want it back on. <S> See explanation in the reply here from Mike Holt <S> : http://ecmweb.com/qampa/code-qa-86 <A> A individual smoke alarm is not governed by article 760 of the NEC, fire alarm equipment is for commercial/industrial use. <S> As long as the circuit is on an arc fault breaker, your fine to use this power for an outlet as well. <A> I have to go with speedy and mark here. <S> Check <S> this quote from ecmweb.com: <S> As defined in NFPA 72, residential smoke alarm systems (including interconnecting wiring) are not powered by a fire alarm system. <S> Therefore, Art. <S> 760 does not cover them. <S> http://m.ecmweb.com/code-basics/fire-alarm-system-facts <S> In Michigan, they are only required to be hard wired, interconnected, and powered from an AFCI since they are in the bedrooms. <S> It is probably a good idea to take your power from elsewhere <S> but there is no code requirement for that. <S> Just my 2¢. <S> Happy Saturday!
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A smoke detector, at least in my area, is NOT considered a "fire alarm", nor is it even implied in the name. The branch circuit supplying the firealarm equipment(s) shall supply no other loads. The 2011 version of the National Electrical Code made this very clear.
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Best shoes for walking on a standing seam metal roof? I went up on my roof this weekend to do some work on an antenna and clean chimneys. It's the first time I've been up there since I replaced the hail damaged asphalt shingles with standing seam steel. I wore some basic cross-trainers, roof was dry, but cold - probably 35F. The lower roof (4/12) was ok, but I didn't feel all that secure. On the upper roof (5/12) I didn't feel very secure at all with regard to slipping and doubt I'll go up there again unless I can find a better solution. I did some roofing and construction as a kid - working on roofs doesn't spook me in general and these aren't particularly steep. But I've never worked on a steel roof before. Will warmer weather or better shoes make a big difference? I don't recall the crew putting the roof on having much trouble, though they got off in a hurry at the first hint of rain. <Q> What you did was fine for the task at hand. <S> A good sneaker/trainer is all you need, but <S> yes, ANY moisture and you can go for a ride easily with little chance of stopping before the ground. <S> Metal roofs can be spooky. <A> I wouldn't put all my faith into footwear. <S> I'd suggest being strapped in or a ladder. <S> That said, if I had to suggest footwear, I'd look at rock climbing shoes. <S> Designed specifically for gripping: <S> Or, given that it's a steel roof, Magnetic Space Boots ! <A> As an aerial rigger a long time ago our boss bought us "Vibram Sole" trainers/boots. <S> These didn't give us any probs. <S> However, nowadays I just use normal trainers to do any roof work. <S> Regarding the metal roof I would seriously consider putting any jobs off till the weather picks up. <S> Always consider reducing your risks, as a human is deficient of self-powered flight. <A> I do a lot of industrial metal roofing in Dutch harbor Alaska which is relly wet. <S> Working 12 to 14 hour a day 7 days a week . <S> We use Xtratuf boots which stick really well as long as they are clean. <S> And we work on pitches up to a 6/12. <S> But use proper safety harnesses when required. <S> They come in Insulated and un- insluated. <S> You can find them at xtratufboots.comIf <S> you wear them day in and day out and its cold, get them 2 sizes bigger, and add a pair of wool or felt insoles, as well get a pair of Bama socks to control the persperation. <S> But use a pair of regular socks or what ever under the bama socks which are just a booty sock. <S> At the end of the day pull every thing out to let dry your bama sock will be soaked from sweat but yor sock under neath will be dry. <S> And use a boot dryer. <S> They are no longer made in the U.S. <S> so if you find those they last the longest, the china tuffs are still good but dont last as long. <A> I'm using walmart cheap sneakers that I smeared with GE silicon rubber caulking. <S> Be sure to let cure fully. <S> These work very well on my 4/12 steel roofing. <S> Keep them clean, <S> I take them off when I get off the roof. <S> I also smeared the knees of my jeans the same way. <S> I'm working on a 7500 sq. <S> ft. barn. <A> Bug spray the bottoms of your shoes then wipe off. <A> Old school converse, basketball shoes or skateboarding shoes work the best for metal roofs
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Flat rubber shoes are best also. Hire a Roof Ladder - or if a friend has one slip him a nice red wine.
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Why are all of my appliances becoming energized when ground wire is excluded? I live in Australia, with three-prong 240v power supply including ground prong. I own a simple plug adapter that does not include the ground connection. As far as I'm aware, using any appliance with this plug removes the safety of the ground protection, but should not have any further effects on the appliance. Instead, if I use this adapter with any of my appliances (washing machine, air compressor, etc) the chassis of the appliance becomes energised. By this I mean that I get a strong shock if I touch the chassis. Also, my proximity voltage detector and neon testing screwdriver light up when touching the chassis. My multimeter detects 0.3v running through the chassis (by the suggested method of touching one probe to the chassis and holding the other probe in my hand) Just touching both probes to chassis and trying all settings on multimeter gives infinite "1" result. What is going on here? How serious is this problem? Notes:1. Yes, this is a follow-up to a previous question asked.2. Yes, I have booked an electrician to come out, but it is always good to investigate yourself so that I can make sure that the electrician addresses the problem correctly. Also, I want to know if it's even safe for me to be in my house and use my appliances in the meantime. <Q> It is unlikely that the chassis is getting "energized" for multiple reasons. <S> First of all, if it was grounded the breaker would trip. <S> Secondly, the power draw of a washing machine would be very dangerous if you touched it. <S> Also, the design of such devices is done to make such accidents rare, otherwise the manufacturers would be facing hundreds of lawsuits. <S> That you see the same thing in multiple appliances makes it improbable that it is current leak. <S> (What is the probability that ALL your appliances have a dangerous current leak? <S> Negligible.) <S> If you are convinced there is a current leak, it is easy to test. <S> Just touch one end of a voltmeter to the "energized" chassis and the other to a ground. <S> If it reads 240 volts, its energized. <S> According to another post the OP apparently did this test <S> and it turned out negative, confirming there is no hot chassis here, it is static electricity. <S> The shock is probably due to static electricity. <S> Both washing machines and air compressors will build up very strong static electricity charges due to rotary motion. <S> If this is not discharged by a ground, static electricity will accumulate and charge up any metal on the device. <S> You also see this same effect on cheap, ungrounded shop vac-type vacuum cleaners. <A> I assume you have a 3-phase system? <S> The Ground wire pins Neutral to Ground potential. <S> In a 3-phase system, if you leave out the ground, the Neutral "floats" and can take on substantial voltage levels, compared to Ground, depending on the load on the 2 other phases. <S> That's what you feel when you touch it. <S> 60V or more is not an unusual reading for a floating Neutral. <A> What may be happening is capacitive and inductive coupling between the ground wire in the plug and the other conductors. <S> An AC electrical system has the current flowing one direction then the other. <S> You know what else works that way, radio transmission, and microwaves. <S> They work by imparting alternating magnetic fields on antennas, and burritos causing current which is either picked up the radio's tuner, or converted into heat in the burrito. <S> The same thing happens between the conductors in your washing machine. <S> As long as that is the only reason you are getting shocked <S> it isn't that serious of a problem <S> yet <S> unless you have a heart condition ( or you have a very long cord ). <S> ( This is similar to how those non-contact voltage detectors pick up the alternating field. ) <S> You may still find out that you read a few volts even after everything is grounded, this is to be expected as the ground wire is connected to neutral which is connected to the neutral of the main distribution network, which means that any imbalance anywhere in the system can pull the neutral away from zero volts in respect to the Earth <S> ( You are capacitively coupled to the Earth ). <S> There are so many things that can cause such an imbalance that it is almost guaranteed that there is some imbalance. <S> This imbalance should be low enough that you can't feel it when touching something that is grounded properly. <S> If you can feel it then it is a problem outside of your control, and you should contact your power provider. <S> ( Only do so after making sure that your house is properly grounded, unless you like talking to a brick wall. ) <A> My best guess is that your hot and neutral are swapped in your outlet and that your adaptor connects it's ground "output" to the "neutral".
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You should definitely make sure that anything that has a provision for connecting to a grounding system is connected, as that will protect you from getting electrocuted should a wire inside of the device shorts out on the case of said device.
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PEX Pipes running along Ceiling on Inside Wall My landlord fixed a leak from the baseboard heating system using a plumber who decided to run the red [guessing PEX pipes] from the water heater/boiler to the baseboards along the ceiling. The pipes are exposed on the inside [hall, closet, and 2 bedrooms]. There is no insulation around the pipes and they are held in place by plastic nails/fastener. To save money, she did not want to cut the gyprock and place the pipes inside the wall. Now, I can see some reddish hue along the ceiling above the pipes. Question: Is this safe? What dangers lurk by running exposed hot water pipes along the ceiling? <Q> As long as it's oxygen-barrier PEX (red often is) then it should be just fine for baseboard heating. <S> The reddish hue on your ceiling is odd, but I have a hunch <S> it's just light reflecting off of the red pipe. <S> Not putting it inside the walls is being a bit cheap, but, then again, there's some argument for making pipes easily accessible too. <S> If you want to cover them, one option may be to get some crown moulding to put over it. <A> It is safe. <S> No dangers lurk. <A> The quest for the cheapest possible plumbing and electrical continues. <S> Next step: pipes and conduit made out of cardboard and epoxy, hung from the ceiling with tissue paper and twine. <S> If it pops a leak you will know much sooner :-) <S> The main issue is that the pipe would be more likely to get damaged, for example, by someone hanging or attaching something to the pipe. <S> Don't do pullups on it, ok? <A> The only issue I see with this is the liability of the pipes themselves. <S> It kind of sounds like a cheap hack job. <S> When pipes are inside walls - 99.9% of the time - and they break the water just travels down. <S> Usually the initial damage is minimal. <S> Also if something did happen you would almost need to prove that you didn't hit the pipe or cause it. <A> Myself I like the idea of having water pipes where I can see them, if the work is done well. <S> Then you've got a big mess to find and replace the leaking pipe. <S> If the frozen pipe thaws while you're at work or away, one heck of a lot of water can pour out before you discover it. <S> I think it's better to have water pipes exposed high up on inside walls so that they are much less likely to freeze.
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Now when you have pipes in the open there is a chance that it could initially damage something expensive right away. I've had too many problems with pipes run in areas like crawlspaces or outside walls that get too cold and freeze. As for insulation, there's no need for that as long as the pipe is on the conditioned side of the wall (as yours is). Relax and be happy you don't own the place (so deciding what to spend money on when it breaks is not your problem.)
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Can I use a 50Hz tape recorder on a 60Hz electrical system? I have a Sony reel to reel tape player/recorder that is rated at 110V, 127V, 220V, 240V, 50Hz. Can I connect it to 110v 60Hz or do I need to purchase a 50Hz output power converter? <Q> Wether playback at 1.2x normal speed is a problem or not is up to you. <S> If you are recording and playing from the same machine then it won't matter. <S> Grid-synchronous timing was very common decades ago <S> (analog tv for example) - the AC frequency was stable and reliable. <S> When devices moved to DC motors and digital control they stopped caring about the mains frequency and just generated their own timing signals. <A> To change the frequency would probably cost more than the recorder is worth. <S> What kind of power supply does the machine have? <S> If it is the old style linear power supply (has a transformer and rectifiers) <S> then you have a problem. <S> If it is the Switch Mode type then it will probably work ok. <A> I would say no since it doesn't say 50/60Hz which would indicate it is compatible with both. <S> Yes you should use a transformer/converter.
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It should work fine ( 60Hz running on 50 sometimes doesn't work) but if the motors are synchronous to the power grid it will run fast. A transformer wont do any good.
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How can I stop my windows from leaking when mild winter weather occurs? We have an 11 year old bungalow and this problem only occurs on the middle section of a bay window. We think that frost happens inside the insulation somewhere and when the temperature outside is mild the frost melts and water drips under the interior window trim and drips onto the slats of the blinds and pools on the window sill. We never have any water leakage when it rains. We took out a large chunck of foam insulation in anticipation of mild weather and this morning the spot we had cleared was dripping. What do we do now? <Q> Are you saying that you manually insulate the window on the inside with foam board to prevent heat loss? <S> If so, this is completely expected. <S> What's happening is that the insulation is doing its job by preventing the movement of heat, thereby keeping the glass colder. <S> However, it sounds like the installation is not airtight. <S> As a result, any moist air that goes through or around the foam board and touches the glass finds the perfect surface to condense on: something vertical, hard, and cold. <S> So it does. <S> If you want to manually insulate a window on the inside like this, the insulation must be absolutely airtight to prevent condensation. <S> Low-E exterior storm windows are good too, and a lot cheaper, but that might be hard to do on a bay window. <A> If you have a beam or something coming out of the wall at that point, water can ingress through capillarity in the space around it. <S> Off topic, I have had this kind of problem on a Land Rover: absolutely no water coming in when running the vehicle -even through a summer storm-, but pronounced leaking around the windscreen and above the front doors after leaving it a night outside with light frost. <S> These are points that are under a bit of overhang, so water drops falling down do not stike there. <S> Capillarity at work, once more. <S> HTH. <A> These are Argon filled dual pane windows right? <S> The chances of only one window condensating because of insulation problems isn't likely but the window is giving you your biggest clue. <S> The seal between the glass is gone and the argone has leaked out leaving you a thermopane window that is no longer thermopane. <S> Have a new glass panel made up and replace the old one, simple!
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Have seen similar situations where the roofing above the point had been set too flat: rainwater (or thawing frost) can run backwards under the overhang to the wall. The more expensive but more correct solution to the problem would be to replace the window with a higher-performance one, likely a triple-pane. I would continue investigating upwards from there.
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Would upgrading hot water radiator heating result in much better efficiency? My wife and I are thinking about buying a funky old house where we live, in southern Ontario, and trying to prioritize upgrades. There's a lot of knob and tube to replace -- top priority -- and some old iron plumbing stacks that will probably be second tier. Third tier gives us lots of options, but nothing mission critical like the wiring or the plumbing. One strong contender is replacing the hot water rads, which are all those old baseboard "public school" style -- large metal boxes with dials on the front -- and seem to be several decades old, at least. The boiler system seems to date from 2002 and has been inspected annually and seems to be, on cursory inspection, in good shape. The question is obviously if there's a huge efficiency gain in upgrading them. The utility bills (for the gas-heated boiler, plus electricity) from the previous tenants seem high, but they're also fairly wealthy and quite elderly, so they may have just kept the place jacked to 80 degrees all year round without much thought to consequences. Windows are about 80% upgraded, so there's work to be done there as well, but I'm mainly wondering if replacing baseboard hot water rads with new models is a "pays for itself" upgrade or mainly an aesthetic choice. EDIT: Here's a not dissimilar picture to what we're looking at: this style, but twice as deep (it extends twice as far from the wall), and with a knob in the middle of the vents. I've assumed the knob opens/closes some sort of valve, or controls something with the vents, but I cheerfully acknowledge that I really don't know exactly what's up with these. <Q> Why is knob and tube top priority to replace? <S> It's quite safe if left alone. <S> You only need to replace it in visible areas: the stuff behind the wall doesn't need replacing. <S> You might want to add some circuits in certain rooms, but you don't have to remove the old ones. <S> Forget about "huge efficiency gain" - it's doubtful you will have a gain at all. <S> What might increase efficiency (somewhat) is balancing them. <S> An old house like that probably has only one zone, so you need to adjust the settings on each radiator so that the house is balanced - that some rooms do not end up hotter than others. <S> This can take a long time to do. <S> Then see if the rooms without the thermostat are hotter or colder than the one with. <S> If all the rooms are hotter/colder, then adjust the radiator near the thermostat the opposite way. <S> Now that you have it mostly set, start adjusting each room based on the temperature. <S> Wait like a day between each change and be aware the correct setting may vary based on the outside temperature, which is annoying, so you'll just have to find some reasonable midpoint. <S> If you want to upgrade anything it should be the insulation on the house. <A> Upgrading the radiators won't directly offer any efficiency improvement. <S> It's pretty hard not to get 100% efficiency when you're just radiating heat from a heat source. <S> To improve the efficiency of a radiant heat system, you need to upgrade the boiler - and to get the most efficiency out of them, with a gas condensing model, you need a lower water temperature than old school radiator systems were designed to run at (~120F rather than ~180F). <S> You may need to upgrade the radiators to be able to get enough heat out of your system from 120F water, but it's not necessarily the case. <S> Assuming the current boiler is a typical 80% efficiency model, you won't get huge savings out of upgrading to a top of the line gas condensing boiler - no more than a 10-20% reduction in heating costs. <S> If you need a new boiler anyway, the difference can be cost effective, but ripping out a perfectly good working system may not be. <S> The high utility bills are probably a consequence of poor insulation and air sealing in older construction rather than inefficient equipment. <A> The radiator you have is like the one in the picture but is deeper from the wall and has vents on the front and a knob in the middle on the front. <S> The knob controls a mechanical damper to increase or decrease the flow of heat from the radiator. <S> Quite often the knob and thread get painted over and won't turn. <S> Also the threaded bolt that is attached to the damper will come out of the damper nut leaving the knob to turn either way doing nothing. <S> First take a flashlight and shine it through the vents to see if there is a damper. <S> If there is, take out the top screws on front cover off the raditaor. <S> Just pull out the top and tilt it. <S> You don't need to take the cover right off. <S> Then attach the threaded knob bolt to the damper. <S> There is a lip/ridge for the damper to pivot on. <S> Make sure the damper is on it. <S> Push front cover back on at the top and replace the screws. <S> In short the knob in the middle only adjusts the damper which controls the air flow of heat.
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No upgrading the radiators (from your description they don't sound like baseboard heaters) will not increase efficiency. To start with, do nothing - someone might have already done it for you.
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Code for elevating water heater in garages? A gas/propane water heater in a garage is elevated. This is to ensure the open flame (at the bottom) is above a certain height (?) to avoid any combustible fuels in the garage from igniting. This all makes sense. But does it apply to electric/heat pump hot water heaters? I assume not, as there is no flame to cause combustion, but I'm not sure where in the code to find out if this is true or not. Is it a plumbing code? Electrical? <Q> As I suspected, the code you're referencing is from the National Fuel Gas Code. <S> I was not able to find anything in National Electrical Code, or International Residential Code that mentions this in the context of electric appliances. <S> So this code only applies to gas water heaters, and only those that are not listed as flammable vapor ignition resistant (FVIR). <S> NFPA 54: National Fuel Gas Code 2015 <S> Chapter 9 Appliance, Equipment, and Accessory Installation 9.1 General. <S> 9.1.10 Installation in Residential Garages. <S> 9.1.10.1 <S> Appliances in residential garages and in adjacent spaces that open to the garage and are not part of the living space of a dwelling unit shall be installed so that all burners and burner ignition devices are located not less than 18 in. <S> (460 mm) above the floor unless listed as flammable vapor ignition resistant. <A> The International Residential Building Code, section G2408.2, Appliance Elevations, Exceptions, specifically states that FVIR-equipped appliances are exempt from the elevation requirement. <S> Elevation might be advisable for water damage mitigation, but is no longer required for gas-fired water heaters in garage installations. <A> Which means, for all practical purposes, the actual water heater should be elevated approximately 12-14" above the garage floor. <S> The burner/ ignition flame is likely 4"-6" above the base of the water heater. <S> Adding the two together gives the required 18". <A> Most gas water heaters in the 30-50 gallon range sold/manufactured in America since 2003 are FVIR (flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant) <S> By 2005, all sold are FVIR. <S> If a water is FVIR, it does not have to be elevated when installed in the garage. <S> http://www.ashireporter.org/HomeInspection/Articles/FVIR-Flammable-Vapor-Ignition-Resistant-Water-Heaters/2361 <A> I was looking to install an electric heat pump water heater and had the same question. <S> After researching, I've come to the conclusion that it is not necessary to elevate a HPWH per: https://basc.pnnl.gov/code-compliance/heat-pump-water-heaters-code-compliance-brief <S> Specifically: "- IRC Section P2801.7 Water Heaters Installed in Garages. <S> Water heaters having an ignition source should be elevated such that the source of ignition is not less than 18 inches (457 millimeters) above the garage floor (currently not relevant to HPWHs) ." <S> (emphasis added) <A> "FVIR certified gas water heaters can beinstalled on a residential garage floorwithout the use of an 18-inch stand inaccordance with the National Fuel GasCode, NFPA 54, ANSI Z223.1, unlessotherwise directed by State and Localcode requirements."
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Code doesn't require the gas water heater itself to be elevated 18"' just the burner/ ignition assembly. That would cover virtually all water heaters manufactured and sold in the US since roughly 2003.
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Why is are the lights in my 60 year old house flickering? My lights will flicker throughout the house when I have a lot on. Also, the ceiling fan will go (beep, beep BEEP beep) then reverse all by itself when the bathroom light is turned on down the hall. This happens intermittently, day or evening, and especially if there has been rain. We live near the coast. <Q> Our house is old..1846 old. <S> We had this issue in our home as well. <S> All breakers were good, nothing was shorting out, tripping breakers, etc. <S> First thing I did was call the power company. <S> Turns out the service line connecting to our house was loose. <S> They tightened it up free of charge and the problem stopped. <S> This can happen over time, after a storm with lots of wind, from a branch falling and catching it some, etc. <A> Insufficient power would result in the lights just dimming when too many things are running or an appliance turns on. <S> With your flickering, I suspect the problem is much more severe, possibly a short or arcing. <S> And if it's either of those, it's a fire hazard. <S> As Tester101 says in the comments, get an electrician that can diagnose and track down the issue. <S> Attempt to isolate the flickering to a single circuit and check every junction on that circuit, particularly around points of the circuit where the flickering begins/ends. <S> If you believe it's weather related, check all outside outlets for moisture and/or corrosion and replace anything that shows damage with a weather tight covered outlet. <S> I would also check the junctions at outdoor lights where water could intrude. <S> As always, when working with electrical, turn off the breaker and verify there is no hot wiring with an electrical tester (preferably the non-contact style) before touching any wires. <A> Our lights flicker slightly whenever the A/C or the refrigerator starts. <S> When a motor/compressor starts it drops the voltage on the line for an instant especially if your utility has you on a transformer with several of your neighbors. <S> You could have a licensed/experienced Journeyman electrician check all your connections or use a FLIR camera to look for hotspots (bad connections). <S> The ceiling fan is another story. <S> If it has electronic controls (the beeping) then it could reset to factory default direction when the voltage drops far enough to simulate loss of power. <S> Requiring you to set it back to the other direction. <S> I would have an electrician inspect the whole system and tell them all the problems you are having.
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As a DIYer, things that you could do to track this down yourself include testing each outlet to look for voltage swings when the flickering occurs. I'd have the power company check the service line and if it's all fine and good, then I'd call and electrician. You'd also see a breaker periodically trip. Rewire anything that uses push in connectors since older versions of these can become loose over time. I don't know of any way to reverse a standard ceiling fan by changing the voltage you have to use the switch.
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Non-sanding solution to get old pen markings out of wood? My wife and I have a toddler who is ready to graduate to a big boy bed , and her parent's handed us down a twin bed that they've had in storage for years (woo hoo). The problem with it is that someone drew all over a section of it with pen (probably a Bic pen, or similar): My wife says this stain has to go, and wants me to sand the entire bed so that, when re-finished, it all looks the same color/etc. Not my ideal weekend: I envision the sanding being a 10 - 12 hours job, minimum. If it helps with a solution, this wood is maple. Before I lose an entire weekend to sanding a 20-yr old bed, I have to ask: is there any solution under the sun (besides buying a new bed) to getting rid of this pen stain, that (ideally) doesn't involve any sanding, but at the very least only requires me to sand this one area? Requirements: Minimum amount of work for me Entire bed frame looks contiguous/the same (no eye sore patch where the stain used to be) Safe/eco-friendly/non-toxic solution (my 2 year old son is sleeping on this thing and could be gnawing on the wooden frame for all I know) Thanks for any ideas/solutions! <Q> unlikely, since ball-point pen will also have dented the surface <S> so the pen mark is lower that the rest of the wood stain. <S> how about a covering? <S> Pick some interesting fabric, a think layer of batting, and upholster it?? <A> Before you go at this with trying to sand it..... <S> I would try using paint and finish stripper. <S> This will take off a huge percentage of the finish with a lot less work than sanding it off. <S> The first part of the stripping can be done by scraping off the bubbled surface. <S> Do wear GOOD rubber gloves when using stripper. <S> The stripper will almost certainly take off the pen ink marks too. <S> After everything has dried after the stripping process it would be the time to sand it out all smooth with fine sandpaper. <S> Always wear appropriate breathing filters when dealing with sanding. <A> I find that lacquer thinner really removes a lot of different types of marks off wood. <S> In your case, it will most likely remove the finish, since most commercial furniture finishes are lacquer based. <S> Try a soft lint free rag dampened with lacquer thinner first to see if it removes any ink, AFTER you bring the footboard outside where there is lots of fresh air, this stuff is potent and probably will kill a lot of brain cells. <S> (that explains a lot about me...) <S> Anyway, you may be able to only treat the spot, since the thinner will not remove the stain, let it dry a while and touch up the area with a few coats of lacquer spray. <S> After the few coats have built up, lightly sand the whole face of the footboard with 400G and give the whole face a spray coat. <S> Mask off other areas to control overspray. <A> Looks like a felt tip pen to me. <S> Most inks are partially water soluble (good news) but they usually have acid in them (bad news). <S> You can probably remove some of the ink by water or other solvent, but no matter what some of it will stay in the wood because it is acid-etched into the wood. <S> So, basically you will have to sand deeply into the wood to eradicate it.
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Paint-thinner will dissolve some pen-inks, but of course it'll also remove the finish on the wood. The secondary applications of stripper can be done with steel wool.
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How to remove a sheet metal screw from the threaded end I'm trying to remove the metal box that holds a bathroom exhaust fan into the ceiling. I've got all the wood screws out but there are 2 sheet metal screws that appear to connect the box to the duct to the outside. The problem is the screw heads are inside the duct and I can't access them. All I can see are the threads. Is there a way to remove the screws from the threaded end? I've tried cutting them off with a hacksaw and a cold chisel. I also tried pounding them out with a hammer. <Q> If there's enough sticking out that you can grab on to, a pair of locking pliers would likely help turn it <S> but it will be hard to fully unthread since there will come a point where the pliers don't have enough to grip on to. <S> If you're lucky, you might get enough clearance to cut it or turn it from another part of the screw. <S> Another option is to simply drill it out and then tap new, slightly larger threads to use with a larger screw when re-installing. <A> If there's not enough friction, you could try sandwiching the screw between a piece of scrap rubber or something similarly tacky or sticky. <A> this would probably have been easier if you hadn't hack-sawed off the exposed threaded ends….:D <S> w/ a screw-removal bit. <S> They're reverse-threaded drill bits made for drilling into the shaft of broken-off screws. <S> The challenge will being able to push hard enough against the screw to get it to bite. <S> Alternatively, get a set of metal sheers and snip the sheet metal of the fan. <A> The easiest way to do something like this is with a diamond hole saw, 1/4" maybe. <S> Sheet metal screws are da ebil. <S> Do not attempt to negotiate with them. <A> I finally figured it out. <S> One of them helpfully fell out after that. <S> For the other I tried a nail punch <S> but it was stuck too well. <S> So I used a crowbar between the outside of the box and the vent it was attached to. <S> That did it. <S> Thanks for all the answers.
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You could try grasping the screw's threaded end with a pair of pliers and rotating. Now that that's done, I expect your best bet is to try to 'tap' them I used a Fein MultiMaster to cut the screws down to the sheet metal.
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Why is my dimmer switch buzzing? We had 2 dimmer switches that had stopped working (lights were on 100% regardless of how turned the dimmer switch was. I checked the back and went out and bought 2 new ones, turned the electricity off and swapped them over. They both control 4 lights and they both work ok, but on one it buzzes constantly. Is this a sign of a faulty dimmer switch or is there something else going on? <Q> This can also be a sign that you bought a dimmer that is designed for incandescent bulbs, but you have it controlling CFL or LED bulbs. <S> This can absolutely make it buzz. <S> If the dimmer was not explicitly for CFL and LED bulbs and those are what you are running, then you need to get new dimmers that are explicitly for those bulbs. <A> Most likely a faulty dimmer if one buzzes and the other doesn't. <S> Are the bulbs on both circuits the same type? <S> (not CFL's) <A> Yes, a faulty dimmer. <S> But only faulty by manufacture, not operation: certain components within the dimmer circuit will vibrate, at 60Hz and 120Hz (or 50/100Hz if that's your mains frequency). <S> Because of this, manufacturers glue everything down, a process called 'potting', to the point where no components could ever be removed. <S> Nobody's going to bother trying to fix one, so it doesn't matter. <S> However, in your case they've been frugal with the glue, or just careless. <S> Ultimately the dimmer isn't going to break or do any damage (except to your sanity with it's incessant buzzing). <S> Replace it if you can, as the buzz is likely to worsen, but there's no risk if you continue using it. <S> You get the same from switch-mode power supplies, like laptop chargers or walls warts. <S> Put your ear to them when they're on <S> and you'll hear a very high pitched whine. <S> The cheaper, the louder! <A> I had this problem. <S> My house is a bit older and I started replacing bulbs in the basement as they burnt out. <S> I pulled out incandescent bulbs and replaced them with LED bulbs. <S> The dimmer started buzzing <S> and I <S> though "eh, its an old switch its probably going bad." <S> I started with the dimmer switch, replaced it, still had the problem, replaced it a second time...still no luck. <S> Turns out <S> the problem was simply that I had been replacing the incandescent bulbs with LED bulbs. <S> Standard LED bulbs are NOT DIMMABLE. <S> (You can buy dimmable LED bulbs, but in that case I would recommend updating the switch anyway as the power load is different) Always try the cheap fix first.
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Make sure the bulbs are designed to be dimable. I ended up just taking the dimmer out and putting a standard switch in place.
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What could cause fluorescent lights to sporadically not come on? My kitchen has 9 26W fluorescent can lights (not CFLs - they have external ballasts). Often when I turn the switch on, particularly after they've been off for at least several minutes, about 4 of them won't light. They'll flash momentarily then stay dark. If I unseat the bulbs (handy being very tall :) ) and reseat them a time or three, the lights will come on. I've tried replacing bulbs, to no avail. I'd assume bad ballasts, but a couple of things make that less likely in my mind: While it's usually about 4 lights that don't come on, it's not the same 4. Some more commonly have the problem, but all 9 have at some point. This has been happening since the ballasts were new (about 2 years ago). It might be getting a bit worse (i.e., more lights out on average) over time. The lights are on a dedicated 15A circuit. They're switched by a 3-way switch. The ballasts are Sylvania QTR1x26T4 . The wiring, circuit breaker, fixtures, ballasts, and bulbs are all about 2 years old. Anybody know of possible causes for this behavior? <Q> Fluorescent fixtures can be rather tricky. <S> With that many installed on the same circuit, what you might be seeing is an unbalanced load on the circuit, causing some of the fixtures to have full current and others, less, and quite simply a ballast, or any fluorescent will not work without full current. <S> With the warm up times of older ballasts, combined with different features of newer electronic ballasts, this could be the answer. <S> The simplest way would be to install two (or more) switches instead of one, preferably running from different circuits. <S> You might also consider replacing some, or all, of the can lights with LED. <S> This would considerably lower the load, as well as saving energy. <S> Quite interesting that you have can lights with an external ballast, as well. <S> I've never seen that. <S> What type of bulb do these use if not <S> a CFL? <S> Is it possible that what you think is a ballast is simply a wiring box where the can lights connect to the wiring, or some sort of dimmer control? <A> Updating this for posterity and to share our solution. <S> Background -- 4 pin cfls with Sylvania Quicktronics residential series ballast, QTR 1x26T4 (120v). <S> 6 can lights on the same switch. <S> Same bad behavior as the OP -- some lights came on <S> ; others didn't in a totally random fashion. <S> On the possibility that there were simply too many lights on that circuit, we tried removing 3 bulbs as an experiment. <S> It looked good initially, but didn't reliably light all 3. <S> Fast forward a year... <S> we found some 4 pin LED retrofit bulbs that do not require a ballast bypass. <S> (This is key -- some do, some don't, and some of our lights were under a very short area of roof, so a ballast bypass would have been a curse.) <S> GE makes them; so do others. <S> This isn't a shopping recommendation, but we happened to get GE's model LED12G24Q-V/827. <S> At just shy of 20 bucks each, you wouldn't call them cheap, but compared to hours on your belly in the attic to bypass ballasts, they're probably priceless. <S> They are non-dimmable. <S> These have a ballast compatibility chart that our ballast didn't appear on. <S> However, things are working perfectly after a few days. <A> I've had a similar problem in my basement fixtures. <S> Check the contacts on the tubes for corrosion and remove it with sandpaper.
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You can also check the contacts on the fixtures and run some sandpaper in them but make sure the power is off first. Isolating part of the fixtures on the circuit from each other quite possibly will solve this.
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Screw's head screwed up I guess I screwed up with a screw's head. This is not unusual and the question answered all over the place, but all existing answers I found were for wood screws. Mine's a small (diam ~1/12th inch, length ~1/6th inch?) brazen round-headed slot screw that holds the name tag of a brazen bell system, similar to this one . The screw was turned in with too much force. When trying too loosen it, the head lost some brass around the slot, so I can't get any force into the screw with my screwdrivers any more. What can I try, before changing the whole bell system? <Q> The easiest way I've found to remove screws which you just cannot get purchase on with a screwdriver is to make the slot bigger. <S> This can be accomplished with Dremel type rotary tool with a slim cutting disk. <S> This is made easier if the head of the screw is above the working surface such as in the picture you showed. <S> All you are trying to do is recreate the slot you've damaged. <S> This will probably mean you'll need new screws in the end ( <S> but I think you are there already anyway). <S> This, of course, will not work if the head is snapped off. <S> Once the new slot is created, just use a flat tip screwdriver of the appropriate size to remove the screw. <S> If it is still happening after this, the aforementioned processes of screw extraction would come into play. <A> Brass Screws, what can you do... <S> Well these screw heads are not the typical Phillips head, which introduces the tapered slot, you are probably using a Phillips head, and the contact points are not great. <S> you could maybe try that. <S> Essentially, getting screws out requires a few things. <S> Good contact on screw head. <S> Try to find a better fitting driver, or try a flat head. <S> Make sure that your angle of the driver is spot on Try to apply constant torque Press as hard as you can on the head. <S> Non seized thread - first spray some penetrating oil - Tap on the heads with a small hammer - You could even heat up the head with a blow torch. <S> All of these factors are good cases for a power screwdriver, you can press hard, they have good torque and help you to align the head to bit. <S> If you do have one, you can even put it in its lowest torque setting and get the drill to do that clicking that it does when the thread it too tight, that may loosen the hold on the screw head. <S> IF you dont have an electric screwdriver, then try to get a set of grip clams (vice grips) and clamp the shaft of the screwdriver near to the end of the shaft, it will allow you to hold with two hands whilst applying good pressure and torque. <S> Obviously the other thing you can use is WD-40 penetrating oil, which will loosen the screws slightly. <S> The other thing is to heat up the head with a small blow torch, which, being brass, will heat up nice and quick, once cooled, you could try again. <S> I mention the oil and heat last, since i don't think you have a seized thread at all, a little bit of elbow grease should do the trick. <S> Remember, brass is easy to sheer off. <S> so you dont want to snap them off. <A> 9 times out of 10 you can get it out with a screwdriver that EXACTLY fits the slot. <S> The problem with the average screwdriver is that it has a BEVELED tip. <S> I have no idea what idiot thought that up, but it belongs in the same category as knives that are not sharp. <S> If you ask a knife company why their knives are not sharp, they will answer: "We are in the business of making knives, not making them sharp." <S> What this means, basically, is that whenever you buy a screw driver you have to grind its tip to make it perfectly flat. <S> If you can find (or make) a flat piece of metal that exactly fits your screw it will probably come out. <S> One trick is to use one or more razor blades. <S> Stack the blades until the fit the slot exactly. <S> The blades will "bite" into the metal a little bit. <S> You can also use those little rectangular Exacto blades the same way.
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I normally find that switching to a small flat screwdriver works better in this case. You could also tap slightly on the heads with a hammer to loosen.
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What is the purpose of a "framed" switch? I'm replacing the switches throughout my house and came across this one today . What is the value of it being "framed" (it seems like that's the only difference between it and the most basic switch)? Can I just replace it with this one . <Q> I think it means the case of the switch is molded around the bezel of the switch. <S> Levitron seems to use this language to describe its "commercial-quality" switches. <A> This is a Leviton spec-grade 20A switch: <S> While this is the framed residential switch from the original question: Decora switches, like this, are also typically spec-grade: <S> None of this has anything to do with grounding. <S> The only switches without ground screws are switches specifically to be used as replacements for non-grounding devices. <A> I'm 99% sure it means there is a raised frame at the base of the actual toggle or not. <S> I have 2 boxes in front of me right now, framed vs unframed. <S> The framed has a small raised area around the based of the toggle (plastic), while the unframed does not. <S> Not sure if this is purely cosmetic or if it adds any strength to the switch. <S> Also note both of these are marked as "commercial" grade (Hubbel from Lowes)
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Typically, cheaper residential grade switches are "framed" like this, and have a slimmer toggle, while commercial "spec-grade" switches have a larger unframed toggle.
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How do I find what these breakers go to? I recently mapped every appliance, receptacle, light fixture, switch to their respective breaker in the master 200A electrical panel. When I was finished I ended up with 2 20A breakers that did not go to anything I could find. The breakers were on when we bought the house. I have since shut them off not knowing what they go to. Is there any other way to trace them or should I just not worry about them and leave them shut off? <Q> appliances that you may not notice aren't working, like sump pumps and radon fans check outdoors, detached structures, in crawl spaces, and attics that you may have missed when labeling the circuits check for outlets that may have been used to connect a generator <S> Lastly, if you turned off just these circuits to see what stopped working, do the reverse. <S> Turn everything else off except the one circuit. <S> It's entirely possible that someone bridged two circuits together somewhere. <S> The location in the panel may give you a clue. <S> Similar appliances are often grouped near each other, and additions tend to be added to empty spaces at the bottom. <A> It is always possible that the two extra breakers and circuits are spares that were wired in. <S> Sometimes, particularly when some circuits are added after the initial building construction, it is cost effective to string extra wires from the electrical panel to a more centralized and easily accessible location. <S> The most obvious thing to find out where these two circuits connect is to suggest that you follow the two black wires from those circuit breakers to where they exit the breaker panel. <S> Then continue to trace them to where they are routed through the framing of the building. <S> This of course gets complicated fast when the wires are not visible and are covered over by wall and ceiling materials. <S> One clue that can be worth considering is if the two circuits are wired up with wiring that looks different from the rest of the installation. <S> You may find for example that, if Romex was used, that the wire jacket is a different color or is stamped with a different label. <S> You can then enter spaces such as attics, crawl spaces, unfinished garages or unfinished utility areas of the house to see if you can spot these particular wires being routed through that area. <S> Another thing to consider, especially if this house was built from a very standard plan, that it is possible that the extra circuits were installed at the time of original construction. <S> They may have been to support some building option that ended up not being selected by the original owner. <S> Some items like this could be wiring routed to near a fire place, wiring to lamp post locations out at the end of a driveway, wiring installed for a dishwasher when none was ever actually installed. <S> I have found that these do not work very well because the close proximity of all the wires in the main panel causes the signal to couple into many of the other wires as well. <A> I have not yet figured out what circuit my smoke detectors are on after 3 years in this house. <S> I had mapped out the entire box early on, but only recently thought of those. <S> They MUST be on a shared circuit, because every breaker has some function attached to it. <S> However, yours may be dedicated to those detectors.
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There are also circuit wiring tracer devices available that inject a signal into the wiring and than supposedly allow you to trace wires using a pickup probe that is near the wire. Short of buying and using a tracer, I'd check for: appliances that were converted to another fuel source appliances that you aren't using currently (e.g. AC or sprinkler system in the winter) It is possible that a more expensive tracer may be more effective than the lower cost one that I have used.
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How can I figure out why my Sears Craftsman garage door opener will not work? I have tried troubleshooting my Craftsman door opener (model 139.53325SRT), because it will not close. It will not close when pressing the wall switch: the opener light just blinks if I do that. Only the right side green light will glow, while the left sensor light will not come on. Nothing has improved over two days of troubleshooting. I have installed new door sensors. <Q> If both sensor lights are not on, the door opener will not close and the light will blink because the opener thinks there is something in the door path. <S> This is a safety measure. <S> You say that you have installed new door sensors. <S> If both lights are still not on, you have to troubleshoot that first. <S> Check all connections and then try to align the 2 sensors. <S> If both green lights are on, and the opener will still not open, then the fault is probably elsewhere. <A> If the door sensors do not indicate that they are happy, it's expected that the door does not want to move. <S> Did you replace the sensor wiring when you replaced the sensors? <S> If not, suspect the wiring on the unhappy side. <S> Presumably it's the receiver (the light source will show green if it's powered, the receiver will only show green if it "sees" the light source, indicating that the path is clear.) <S> Check that the aiming of the sensors looks good and the lenses are not dirty or covered with some sort of protective plastic for shipping (since they are new.) <S> If the wiring all checks out as OK and the sensor still won't sense, it's time to suspect the control board in the opener. <S> While replacements are usually available (and it's enlightening <S> just how many "different brands" are actually all from the same company when you look for replacement parts) <S> it's something of a gamble - I've done one, and it worked, but I was essentially betting about half the price of a new opener (with warranty) on a new board (no warranty) - <S> in that case I had a pretty strong suspicion that it was lightning-strike damage, but it was a gamble. <S> I would certainly compare replacement parts and the terms they are sold under with replacing the whole thing. <A> Could be a broken board, but its most like to be the sensor, or that the electronics are in a locked state due to obstruction. <S> Did you try to hold down the wired press button for a few seconds? <S> I think that will bypass the previous obstruction state To diagnose the sensor circuit, there are two ways: <S> If you have a multimeter with continuity tester (tests for an open or closed circuit) you can test to see that the sensors are working. <S> You would simply press the two test leads to make contact with the sensor wires <S> , when un-obstructed I think the circuit should be normally closed, then when you obstruct, the sensor should open (ie no circuit) -- I could be wrong if its a normally open or closed setup though since im not certain. <S> If you dont have a tester, you can just manually bypass the sensors whilst testing. <S> you can do this by running a short piece of wire to each of the sensor board terminal screws (as shown in the diagram below) <S> Anyway, Thats what I would try. <S> as, I said, I am not 100% certain of the specific details of this motor, and would appreciate somebody in the know to validate this answer... <S> but for now, this may guide you...
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One light being off is usually due to either the two sensors getting out of alignment, a faulty connection, or a faulty sensor.
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What equipment could I use for digging out a basement after the house is built? My mother and father built the home I live in many years ago. It only had a half basement. My father had started on the other side, but passed away before finishing it. I have now taken this job on. I have removed approximately 100+ 5 gallon buckets of dirt, chopping and picking away at it, shoveling it into buckets and carrying it from underneath the house. Is there a piece of digging equipment that I could rent or even buy, that would make this job just a small bit easier on mine and my husband's backs? A whole lot easier would be great, but I would settle for even a small bit. <Q> The standard (as much as there is one) technique for this these days is to jack the house up to the point that smaller power equipment (which is not cheap) such as a skid-steer loader can be used - and so that the basement walls can be removed (with the house supported on blocking) and replaced with new ones to full depth, properly supported on footings. <S> Sometimes the house is simply rolled off to the side once jacked up so that a new foundation can be built (without the house in the way), or a new foundation is built on the property and the house is moved to it, then the old one is demolished. <S> There are companies you can hire for the job, and that is by far the most usual approach to it. <S> Unless the current foundation is "full-depth" (ie, walls in deep trenches, with the dirt left on the inside for later digging out) <S> it can, as suggested by @djs be hazardous to both your house and your life to dig below the current level of the footings that the walls (and house) sit on. <S> One obvious improvement from your described approach would be to build a ramp from the basement (possibly involving digging some outside the house) so that you can use a wheelbarrow or cart to roll excavated dirt out from under the house, rather than carrying it in buckets. <S> In some cases a conveyor might be of use, but that's a fairly expensive and fiddly (lots of moving parts, and sensitive to overloading, etc) approach. <S> If you cannot make a long ramp and have a typical steep bulkhead, wheelbarrowing to the bottom of the bulkhead and transferring to a smallish box on wheels running up a track (probably wooden) on the bulkhead that you pull up from outside <S> (thus smallish- too heavy makes it miserable) <S> would be much better than carrying buckets upstairs. <A> I worked on a job where they did just what you are describing - only on a large, 3 story turn of the century home of perhaps 10,000 sf. <S> A number of guys dug for more than 3 months under the building, and they used one of these conveyor belt setups. <S> But as mentioned above, this is potentially a very dangerous undertaking. <S> These were professional builders with engineers managing the whole project. <A> My suggestion would be rent a Ladder hoist/laddervatoy from a rental place. <S> You my have to modify the way you send the buckets up. <S> Possibly build a crate for you to put the bucket in. <S> Mine lifts <S> 400lbs <S> but I know most lift <S> 250lbs. <S> I can't say I ever did this yet <S> but im going to do a test run because of a job coming up. <S> I let you you know what the results are afterwards.
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Some types of "trencher" may also be of use in this job. In the more desperate case where you don't even have a bulkhead, a ramp could be built to allow you to roll a box of dirt out a window, if there are at least basement windows to work with. Make sure you get the maximum lifting weight specs from the rental place.
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How can I resolve tripping problems with CAFCI? Situation: I was having combination arc fault circuit interrupters (CAFCI) installed in some 20 Amp and 15A branch circuits. In several cases , the CAFCI immediately tripped after installation, or tripped when an appliance was started. Devices were installed by licensed professional electrician. Load center is Square D, Type QOC 30UF, Series S01, Type 1 enclosure. Single family residence. The offending circuits are:1. Branch circuit (20A) feeding a furnace induced draft blower motor (12 Amp full load). No other devices in circuit. CAFCI is Square D, QO120CAFIC (pigtail neutral) Device tripped immediately on installation and CB set to ON. Branch circuit (20A) feeding kitchen, with a refrigerator, convenience receptacles, and some CFL lighting. CAFCI is Square D, QO120CAFIC (pigtail neutral) Device tripped immediately on installation and CB set to ON. Branch circuit (20A) feeding kitchen dish washer and a disposal (Insinkerator). CAFCI trips when disposal is started. CAFCI is Square D, QO120CAFIC (pigtail neutral) I have had no tripping problems on these circuits with the standard 20A 1-Pole CBs installed. Q1: Will a AFCI cause the same incompatibility problem as the CAFCI? Q2: Are CAFCI (and perhaps AFCIs) not compatible with circuits supplying appliance or HVAC motors? (is this a series arcing problem?) NOTE: I have square D QO dual—function (CAFCI+GFCI) and CAFCI CBs installed on other branch circuits (20A & 15A) that include ceiling fans, range hood blower, microwave, desktop computers (fans), and a tankless gas water heater. These CBs do not trip when fans are started or the water heater gas ignition operates. <Q> All of the examples you mention have motors, inductive loads that can trip GFCI breakers even without a wiring fault (not sure about the AFCI part). <S> (As soon as you power up the refrigerator the motor probably starts since it's warm.) <S> Not sure what your local codes are, but these devices are better off on their own non-GFCI circuit, especially the fridge. <A> Okay let me try this again. <S> You stated that "No other devices in circuit. <S> CAFCI is Square D, QO120CAFIC (pigtail neutral) <S> Device tripped immediately on installation and CB set to ON" correct? <S> When you say pigtail neutral do you mean that the neutral for the circuit, the neutral from the factory made breaker and a neutral wire connected to the neutral bar are wire nutted together ? <S> If this is true, this type of breaker should not have pigtail neutrals. <S> The neutral for the circuit should landed on the breaker, at the neutrals screw, and the neutral from the factory made breaker should land on the neutral/ground bar. <A> We can divide this problem into two cases; namely, "instant trip" circuits and "device trip" circuits. <S> (There are also "any device trips" circuits, but you do not have one of those.) <S> Circuits that trip a CAFCI instantly when the breaker is installed and switched ON without loads connected/switched on. <S> This is a clear sign of a wiring flaw in the circuit: either there is a parallel arc present due to faulty wiring (rare), or more likely, a ground fault is present in the circuit, also due to faulty wiring or a mis-wired circuit. <S> Examples of the latter include: landing the circuit neutral on the neutral bar instead of the breaker cross-connecting the circuit neutral to another circuit's neutral grounding the neutral at some point downstream of the main panel (this is most commonly the fault of bad subpanel installs, but can happen if someone does something wrong in a box as well) trying to put a single pole breaker on a multi-wire branch circuit or shared neutral run <S> Helpfully, you can glean diagnostic information from your breakers when troubleshooting this. <S> As per this Square-D instruction sheet , Turn the culprit AFCI OFF <S> While holding in the TEST button, turn the culprit AFCI back on. <S> If the culprit AFCI trips instantly, it is sensing a ground fault (such as a shared or miswired neutral, although damaged wiring cannot be ruled out). <S> If it delays a couple of seconds and then trips, it is sensing an arc fault (damaged wiring). <S> Circuits that trip a CAFCI when a specific device is switched on or plugged in <S> This is indicative of a faulty device -- in your case, a garbage disposal. <S> Having the motor rebuilt with new brushes would fix it in this case. <S> If your garbage disposal is a newer model using an AC induction motor, though, it is likely simply either a victim of water ingress, or just plain faulty; in either case, it's time to replace the whole disposal.
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Some older disposals use brushed "universal" motors, and these can produce more severe arcs if the brushes are worn, which could trick the AFCI into tripping. Hold in the TEST button (white button) on the culprit AFCI In the kitchen, unplug the refrigerator and see if it trips.
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How do I fix seams that open up at the corners of walls during the winter? Every winter, we get cracks like this where the walls meet the ceiling in certain rooms. We just got our bathroom redone, so it's most bothersome here. When springtime comes, they "seal" back up. Why does this happen and what's the best way to fix this? Or should I just hire someone? How much would this run minus painting? Update: thanks everyone for your answers! ultimately, I think the best answer is the "cover it up with crown moulding" since that will look prettiest, add some value, and fixes the issue for the long term. But is that what I did? Of course not!! I went the "caulk it and hope no one notices" route, and, honestly, it looks pretty OK now. I used Lowes White Lightning Latex Caulk and filled in the gaps, then painted. I think there is still a question of how it will look in the spring when it closes up, and if it will "bead" when it compresses. I guess we will see. (FYI there's more info on why this happens in this article I found -- he also endorses the caulk solution: http://www.chicagotribune.com/classified/realestate/sns-201401131900--tms--askbildrctnab-a20140124-20140124-story.html ) <Q> There is no good solution to fix the issues, but you can cover it up. <S> That is not to the ceiling. <S> This would allow for the expansion/contraction to remain covered. <S> Other options would be to install Cove moulding. <S> or Crown Moulding Note that the Crown shown here is clip on, and the clip attaches to the wall only. <S> Again, this allows for expansion. <S> These can all be DIY projects if you're comfortable with finicky work. <S> It's a bit tricky to get the corner mitres looking nice and tight, and you'll need a compound mitre saw. <A> From the picture it seems that the walls were done and the ceiling last and trying to meet the walls. <S> Normally (if done right) <S> the drywall on the ceiling would rest on the drywall from your walls. <S> In this case even if you had a lot of contraction throughout the year you would have a very minor crack at most (which could be fixed with plaster or even caulk). <S> Picture below illustrates how to do this. <S> Note that the wall would adjust horizontally up to a half inch (width of drywall) <S> and then the only issue would but if the wall contracted up or down which the floating part takes care of. <S> Since your drywall was not installed correctly you could redo the last two feet and sit your ceiling on your walls. <S> If your house will look significantly better his option is better. <S> If you are really worried about it and want to keep the same look, my option is better. <A> I had a very similar problem happen to me. <S> Someone had left a gap between the drywall on the ceiling and the drywall on the wall. <S> I bought the Spackle that has latex in it. <S> I filled the crack, do not over do it because that stuff is very difficult to sand. <S> Another part of the problem was they did not put any seem tape on the seems. <S> After I got the crack filled in pretty good and left it dry <S> I taped the seem and used regular spackle to even it all out. <S> Haven't had a problem since and it has been five years.
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This is relatively free from a materials point of view (minimal drywall, mud, and ceiling paint) but could take a lot of time. The reason why this is happening is the structural members are expanding and contracting with the temperature/humidity changes. Chris offers another option which probably takes more time and has expensive materials. The quick and dirty solution would be to put up quarter round over the seams, and attach it to the studs only-
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Cutting a window to see your garage from within the house I found this design concept that someone did of their house. They had cut a panel out of their house that allows them to see their garage which is a cool idea. Are there any projects out there that have done something similar? <Q> You'd do this like you would add any other new window. <S> Find the studs, choose a location, cut square holes in the drywall on both sides, cut sections out of the intervening studs to make room for the new window, and frame the new window properly like this: <S> Then you would flash the rough opening's sill with self-adhering membrane and install the window just like any other one, then repair the drywall on both sides and add trim. <S> However, in terms of the wisdom of this plan, it seems questionable for a variety of reasons: <S> It's probably a fire hazard; no window is going to contain a fire in the garage as well as thin sheets of rock (drywall), and this is especially true if the windows are framed in vinyl or wood. <S> Windows aren't completely airtight, so you're creating more routes for nasty gasses and fumes from the garage to enter the house. <S> The garage side of the window is going to continuously get dirty from car exhaust and need cleaning. <S> If you don't happen to own two fancy sports cars, or you use the garage for storage, the view may be less than stellar. <A> Your local building code requirements hold sway, and I encourage you to review them prior to planning. <S> That being said, many building codes specify a garage/home separation, but fall somewhat short of requiring a an actual fire rating. <S> The separation has some requirements that provide more fire protection and exhaust protection than typical living space separations, but they are not meant to be actual "20 minute", "1 hour", or "2 hour" fire ratings as given by the UL. <S> Consider install a non-opening window. <S> This allows you to fully seal the opening during installation, and prevents people from accidentally leaving it open or not fully closing it. <S> Running a car for under a minute produces enough exhaust to go over the OSHA limit for safe working environments - you don't want to trap any of that in your house. <S> Also, install a fire rated window. <S> Fire rated windows are available and will last longer in most fires. <S> Beyond that, standard window installation techniques apply. <A> This idea is definitely against building codes every place in the United States unless you install a fire rated window! <S> All codes require a minimum of a one hour rated firewall between the garage in the residence including in the attic area and some areas even extend this to a 2 hour rated wall. <S> This includes doors and any other penetrations through the wall! <S> Putting a window in this wall is a very bad idea! <A> In the photo you used as an example, it could very well be that the "room" with the window into the garage is actually still part of the official garage, meaning it is still behind the fire wall and NOT a legal living space. <S> Someone may be USING it that way; many people do convert their garages or parts of them into living spaces even though that is often illegal.
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Some windows will break when exposed to intense heat, much more quickly than the fire would have burned through the wall if you hadn't installed a window. Anyone you try to sell the house to may be less than enthused by a window into their garage allowing them to gaze upon their dirty Toyota Camry and boxes of Christmas and Halloween decorations. Your safety is in your hands, though, so I would suggest going above and beyond code.
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Does the number of links of a chainsaw chain affect the sprocket? How does the gauge of the chain effect the drive sprocket? I bought a new bar and chain, the pitch is .325, the sprocket is .325 and gauge is .063, but the number of links is 81 instead of 74. Will it work? <Q> Gauge is the thickness of the drive tangs on the saw chain. <S> The only effect chain gauge will have on standard spur sprockets is the contact area it presents on the spur teeth, thicker gauge = <S> wider contact area. <S> Rim Sprockets use a pocket that must be wide enough to allow the drive tangs to seat. <S> Pitch is the length of the links that make up the chain, basically the distance spanned by three rivets divided by 2 and chain pitch must match the sprocket pitch <S> so the chain is properly driven. <S> The reason for measuring over the span of three rivets and taking the average to calculate pitch is that the drive link has the rivets closer together than the tooth and span links. <S> Where the pitch matters, as shown on the simpler spur sprocket chain drive mechanism on an electric pole saw. <S> Chain drive tangs must be the right distance apart to engage the sprocket teeth properly. <S> This leaves the remaining variable which is the number of links. <S> More links, longer chain which must of course be accommodated by having a longer bar. <S> Since the chain is seven links longer (81-74), the chain will be about 2.3" longer. <S> If the bar nose radius on the new bar is equal to that of the old bar, your new bar should be about 1" longer. <S> Also, there are different geometries on saw bars that can be used to take up that extra length which only can be seen by comparing the old bar against the new bar. <A> Presumably the new bar is either longer or wider or both than the old bar? <S> Number of links is to fit the bar - pitch is to fit the sprocket. <A> Since the number of links is larger(81 instead of 74), there is low chance that it would fit properly. <S> What I suggest is to check the chain details(gauge,pitch and drive link) before you get one. <S> You can find the details printed on the bar or in the manual. <S> If not, take the chain with you to a local hardware store, they can tell you all the details just taking a look at the chain.
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Chain gauge must match the groove width on the bar.
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How to trash the trash can? I never expected to ask my first question about trashing something, but after 4 failed attempts to trash the trash can, I have no choice but ask you. Here is the problem: I have a trash can, which needs to be trashed. Simple, right? Not so. I've started last week. First attempt was to tie a trash bag to the trash can (I hoped they will be angry and will take trash can wit them), but they left it. Second through Fourth attempts were to leave a note inside the trashcan on top of the trash bags asking to take the trash can and put into garbage truck. I still have that trash can. My next attempt will be to find a large enough trash bag and put trash can inside, but that would be problematic - finding large enough trash bag. We have twice a week garbage pickup from the curb. So question is how to trash the trash can? <Q> I have trashed many a trashcan. <S> Simply get axe and have fun for 10 minutes and throw it in a few bags. <S> Note that whether metal or plastic, the axe ricochets so make sure no one is around you and that you have space. <A> I believe George Carlin had a commentary on this in one of his early routines, and suggested bending it to the point where it does not have a top opening anymore. <S> After all, the garbagemen don't want to get in trouble because they threw away your somewhat beat up trash can that you were planning to use for another 20 years. <A> The trash collectors are too busy to care about pieces of paper inside the can. <S> I'd suggest writing a new note in large bold letter on large paper saying a very simple message like "please take the can. <S> It is also trash. <S> " <S> the note should be placed on the outside in a way that makes reading it easy, fast, and inevitable. <A> In our state you trash collectors will no longer pick up metal items <S> You either take it to the dump as garbage or to a metal recycler. <S> Large metal items are not recyclable through trash collection either. <S> Check with you trash collection company or town.
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So you have to make it obviously no longer useable as a trash can.
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What could cause a crack in the drywall where the wall meets the ceiling? My wife and I bought our home 3 years ago. It is roughly 50 years old, and had recently been shored prior to our purchasing it. There were a few cracks in drywall here and there, nothing that wasn't easily patched and painted. Six months ago, we had spray foam insulation installed in our attic, and since that time, I've noticed some cracks starting to appear once again, some in places I'd previously patched, some new. As I was inspecting a re-opened crack, I looked around the rest of the house, and found an interior wall where the seam where the all meets the ceiling has split, almost the whole way across the room. I'm wondering, what could cause that? Could it be related to the weight difference caused by the newly installed insulation in the attic? Could it be some natural settlement following the recent shoring job? We also had a drought for most of October through present, which could also cause some settlement issues. I have visually inspected the slab, but I don't see where any significant cracks have appeared. Has anyone seen anything like that before, or had a similar experience? <Q> You indicate that you have been in a drought since October. <S> I experience some "seasonal" cracking and shrinkage in my home. <S> See what it looks like in July/August, if the condition persists, consult a local experienced contractor. <A> If the roof is structured with pre-built trusses, then this site, http://inspectapedia.com/interiors/Roof_Truss_Uplift.php <S> could explain the condition you observe. <S> Briefly, if different parts of a wooden truss are subject to different temperature or humidity, the changes in individual dimensions can cause the truss to arch in the middle, and draw away from walls below. <A> Cracks where the walls meet the ceiling are quite common and can be caused by a number of things including thermal expansion of the timbers, moisture and even vibrations caused by normal occupancy. <S> Consider the seam between two sheets of drywall in-plane on the wall. <S> Expansion of the structure is not likely to split this seam because the timbers expand relatively uniform and elongate in the same direction. <S> Though they are fastened you will have small strains focused on the corners. <S> Drywall mud is not a very elastic substance when dry. <S> To address this problem you should run a bead of paintable caulking the entire length of where your walls and ceiling meet.
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Combine cooler weather, better insulated roof, and heat being on; the structural framing of the house may have shrunk. Now, between the wall and the ceiling you have ceiling timbers expanding laterally and the wall timbers expanding vertically. You will still have the wear on the corner but the caulking will now show a crack like the raw mud will. Alternatively you can use crown molding to obscure the corners.
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I ran into two hot lines when replacing a three way switch I've read up on three way switches, and have replaced a few over the years. I recently installed a bathroom fan, and so had to replace two three way switches. Very simple setup - two switches, one fixture with four lights. As soon as I looked at the old wiring, I got confused. After removing the switches, I did some testing. Each switch box has a hot line coming in. By that, I mean that with no switches installed, each box has a hot pair into it. The only thing that I can figure is that it was a Carter system, as that is the only diagram that I have seen with hot/main into both switches. A little disturbing, as this house was build in 1970, and Carter hasn't been code for ages. Is my assumption correct? Is Carter the only one with main/hot to both switches? If so, what do I do from here? I'd rather not wire up another Carter setup. Thanks,Erick Additional information : I've attached a picture with what I've discovered. My next task (tomorrow) is to open up the fixture and see how it is connected. It seems like 3 way switch in box 2 was wired in series with the rest of the circuit. I verified A is connected to B by turning off main, then checking continuity with a multimeter. Verified both are hot with main on with a multimeter. I assumed C by turning off power, then checking continuity with a multimeter. I don't know if there is a junction or anything else along this, but it does connect through. I have one line going to the fixture ( D ), but I haven't verified it yet. It could be some combination of C , D and E for all I know. Update I had to admit defeat on this one. I wired up the new switches in exactly the same way as the old. It works, but I still don't understand it. At some point I'll revisit and rewire. Thanks to everyone for their help! <Q> It's possible that you are detecting residual voltage from the neutral through the lamps at one switch (in the order of 50V often), you can use a multimeter in voltage mode and see how much voltage you actually detect. <S> Or take out the bulbs from the fixtures and check again. <S> Other wise <S> you can <S> (with the breaker off) connect 2 wires at one switch then check continuity of the wires at the other end (with a battery and little bulb for the poor-man's checker). <S> If the non-lives are those that connect on both ends <S> then it's fine. <A> There are a few possibilities. <S> Perhaps the hot-and-neutral pair coming up cable B are merely passing through box 2 on their way to cable E, and they don't connect with the 3-way switch at all. <S> In that case, cable C would be a 14/3 (or 12/3) containing 2 messengers and a common, in the usual style. <S> Perhaps you have a Carter 3-way system , which has been illegal since 1923, but some electrical "genius" might have "reinvented" it. <S> If I were you, I'd install a modern "smart" 3-way switch in box 1, with its power fed by cable A. <S> I'd put a "smart switch" remote in box 2, with its power fed by cable B. Hence, A-D would be one circuit, and B-E would be the other. <S> I'd shop carefully for smart switch/remote combos that didn't require a signal wire between them, or, if they did, were able to reside on different circuits and use wires in cable C for communication only. <A> In the 1960's/70's (in Canada at least) it was normal to run a three wire with two hot lines to save on wiring, even if you removed one of the hot lines, there was still another that was live. <S> Have you traced back both lines to the box? <S> A three wire with this setup will have both the red, and the black line connected to separate breakers.
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This would require "hot" and "neutral" to be present at both 3-way switches, but would only require a single wire in cable C.
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How to white spray paint bath window for privacy? What are tips to paint on privacy for bathroom windows? White spray paint sounds easy, but would make it harder to clean the window, would it not? Pros: Privacy with natural light. Window shades stay open while showering which keeps the condensation away, thus improving life of wood window frame. Cons: Unless the paint dries smooth-as-glass, it will collect dust much more quickly and be more difficult to clean. What are professional tips to apply paint to windows for bathroom privacy and ease-of-cleaning? Electrostatic paint? <Q> Have you thought of a bathroom window film? <S> It's very easy to put there, and it works really nicely. <S> I mean one of these: <S> They come in a variety of patterns, from plain to very fancy. <S> I think they are easier to apply than the sprays (I've put them on couple windows without any problems). <S> They are made to be in the bathroom <S> so they last long, and the surface is easy to clean from dust. <A> If you have to paint the window try putting the paint on the outside of the glass. <S> This way the inside where you clean more will still be "smooth as glass" because it will still be glass. <S> On the other hand there are partially opaque films that you can get that apply from the inside of the glass. <S> They are plastic and clean easily. <S> Plus they are intrinsically more removable should a future owner not want the same level of privacy. <A> I think it would be a desirable option, since you still get good light through the glass. <S> glass frosting spray
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I have not tried it, But I have seen the glass frosting spray a lot.
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How concerned should I be over scraping/sanding a small area of lead paint We removed a shelving unit in our kitchen that was attached directly to the wall. We intend to paint the entire room but the cabinet was on top of many layers of flaking old paint. The house dates back to the 30s and it is likely that some of the paint is lead based. The area is roughly 3ftx6ft and we don't have any children. Should we avoid scraping it and call in professionals or is that small an amount relatively fine? What about sanding? <Q> Get some medium plastic and taped it to the wall and extend it out 6-12 feet to catch all the chips. <S> Scrape it carefully <S> so all the chips fall on the plastic. <S> When done, roll up the plastic to trap the chips and dust, tape it closed, and dispose in the trash. <S> (I don't like that step, but last I heard, there was nothing better). <S> Wipe all surfaces down with damp towels until no more dust is removed. <S> Wash your clothes thoroughly; be careful not to track through the rest of the house. <S> If you have a HEPA vacuum, use it! <S> :) <S> You may not have kids now, but it's the lingering lead dust that is most dangerous. <A> Wear a mask while sanding or scraping. <S> Clean up with towels and a wet solvent. <S> Don't eat the lead chips. <A> This sounds like a good project for a modern paint stripper. <S> Get a sample size of SoyGel (or CitriStrip or whatever), and cover the whole surface with the goop. <S> Then cover the gel with strips of plastic wrap, and leave it overnight. <S> In the morning, you'll be able to remove it easily with a scraping tool; it just melts off. <S> Repeat as needed if you have many layers of paint. <S> Benefits of this approach: 1) <S> Minimizes lead exposure. <S> The lead paint is bound into the goop. <S> 2) <S> Modern paint strippers don't contain methylene chloride. <S> They still don't smell great, but they're a lot safer for indoor work.
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Don't sand, that puts lead dust all over the place.
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Drawbacks of a stacked top-loading washer + drier We're considering getting a stacked washer-drier (top-loading washer). I like the option of soaking clothes before washing them, which is why I like a top-loader. What are the drawbacks / things to consider when buying such a unit? <Q> The height to the top of the stack will, in the worst case, require a step ladder to get the cloths in and out. <S> If it is reduced height thing then maybe just a stool is required but it still seems like a big pain. <S> There is another consideration too. <S> Washers, especially ones loaded with wet cloths and water, are way heavier than dryers. <S> It seems all wrong to put a heavy washer on the top of the stack. <S> Lastly if you select one of the type of stacked units that only lets a lower washer door open up to a 45 degree angle I find those to also be a pain to reach into and get the cloths in and out (especially out). <A> My primary concerns with stacked (single non detachable unit) appliances is durability. <S> In my experience dryers outlast washers at least 2 to 1. <S> I have had three washers in my life and still use the same dryer. <S> Dryers, at least the low tech variety only have a few items that fail. <S> Belts, timers, bushings, etc. tend to be inexpensive and easy to replace. <S> If the washer tub rusts, the gearbox or pump fails and repair costs exceed the value you have to throw away a perfectly good dryer. <A> One obvious drawback is that top-loaders use more energy, water, and detergent than front-loaders. <S> You can use a pre-wash or rinse cycle to give clothes more soaking time in a front-loader. <S> See also: How to Solve the Soaking Problem with a Front Load Washer <S> There are stacking kits for separate washers and dryers of the same brand, including front-loaders.
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Stacking a top loading washer on top of a front loading dryer is going to be a ripping pain to use.
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What reasons are there to rewire an ungrounded circuit instead of adding GFCI protection? The NEC allows replacing non-grounding-type (2-prong) receptacles with grounding-type (3-prong) receptacles by adding GFCI protection at the breaker or first outlet. What reasons might there be for wanting to upgrade the circuit wiring to include an equipment grounding conductor (EGC) instead of, or in addition to, adding GFCI protection? ( alluded to in this answer ) Specifically, I'm curious about: Safety - In what scenarios does an EGC provide protection (from electric shock, fires, etc.) where a GFCI does not? Can an EGC help prevent damage to computer or audio equipement ? Could an EGC reduce noise/static from audio equipment ? <Q> Points one and two, I can't make a definitive answer but generally when a ground is not provided a GFCI provides acceptable protection. <S> As for point 3, grounding issues are a major source of noise/static. <S> Likewise, any EM interference the device creates will be poorly contained within the case. <S> Another source of grounding on audio/video equipment is referred to as "ground loops". <S> Pretty much all audio/video cables use a grounded jacket around a central wire to shield it from EM interference and this jacket also connects different pieces of equipment together on the ground. <S> If two pieces of equipment happen to be grounded to two different sources, a small electrical current can be transmitted across the grounding jackets causing a lot of noise on the lines. <A> A GFCI is the best protection against shock you can reasonably put on a 120V mains circuit, grounded or not. <S> Surge suppressors absorb surge energy as well as attempting to divert some of it back to the source—even without a ground, they can function just fine. <S> The mains ground is ineffective at RF as it is long enough to be highly inductive (or even a transmission line!) <S> at typical EMI frequencies. <S> Local (i.e. as part of the computer, AV, et <S> al installation) bonding is what provides effective RF suppression due to the equipment chassis being equipotential to both AC and RF relative to the other chassis it is connected to—cable shielding is an extension of the chassis when terminated to the chassis correctly. <S> Note: <S> Leave the ungrounded outlets <S> ungrounded if you cannot put a new home run in! <S> In other words, don't run individual EGC wires to outlets or ground outlets to water pipes. <S> Bootleg or otherwise improper grounding can be very dangerous to life, limb, and equipment when combined with reversed polarity due to 120VAC flowing through equipment chassis and cable shields. <A> Safety - In what scenarios does an EGC provide protection (from electric shock, fires, etc.) <S> where a GFCI does not? <S> GFCIs are a poor substitute for grounding. <S> In the absense of grounding a GFCI will only disconnect a fault to the case after your electric shock starts. <S> Hopefully it will do it before the shock kills you <S> but there are no gaurantees. <S> Having some equipment grounded and some ungrounded is often worse than having nothing grounded. <S> Current flows in circuits so to give yourself a shock <S> Can an EGC help prevent damage to computer or audio equipement? <S> Without a proper grounding path fault and leakage currents may flow down routes they were not intended to such as signal interconnections. <S> This may cause damage Again the worst case is when some equipment is properly grounded and other connected equipment is not.
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If the item is not grounded the metal case around the device will be very ineffective in shielding the device from EM interference.
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How to close gaps between laminate floorboards I have a laminate "click together" flooring and some of the board have separated. If I kick my foot on some of the boards, I can scooch some of them together.However, its not very effective. Is there a tool for closing floorboards. Perhaps something that has a rubber foot to stick to the board that I can tap along with a hammer? <Q> A suction cup (~$12) and a rubber mallet: From: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mmhet1bp9U ... <S> its possible to stick the suction cup to the floor board and tap it with a rubber mallet. <S> Glue can be applied in the gaps. <S> The gaps should be cleared of debris first. <A> So, someone finally made a product for this. <S> Mine is on the way <S> so I'll let you know how it works. <S> It's an aluminum bar with a micro-suction material on it. <S> Simple but genius. <S> https://www.floorgapfixer.com/ <A> <A> I had 15-20 gaps in the entire house. <S> Last time I pulled the baseboard and used a prybar and the z-bar that I used for installation. <S> I had my wife help <S> so I wouldn't damage the boards. <S> I added glue to the gaps before closing them <S> and I did this in one room. <S> I glued those ones and a month later more gaps appeared in other areas of the room. <S> I was pretty excited about it. <S> I bought one <S> and it was wider than my flooring <S> (mine are 3" wide). <S> I saw Dylan post and checked out this "floor gap fixer". <S> I decide to buy one since it would fit my flooring and the videos on youtube <S> showed it working well. <S> You move one board at a time until you get to the wall. <S> I was able to do it myself <S> and it went quick. <S> I only added glue to the first gap. <S> It was quick and worked well. <S> Much better than pulling the baseboard again. <S> I am no longer dreading the day when my wife spots a gap. <S> I will update you If anything changes but for me it was worth it. <S> I am thinking about starting a business to close gaps after seeing all of the views on these youtube videos. <A> It is normal for laminate flooring to expand and contract with changing seasons and changing humidity. <S> The important thing is that it must not be fastened down at the edges, or pinned under too-tight or toenailed baseboards.
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Apply wood glue in the gap, kick the boards together with your foot or a hammer + piece of scrap wood in the gap on the other side, and then tape the now-glued-together boards with a couple pieces of masking tape or blue painter's tape. If the edges cannot move, then the boards will pull apart. I checked youtube and the internet and found that people were using the "Handle on Demand". The whole floor needs to be able to contract as a unit, with the slack taken up at the edges.
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Ramp for a tool shed I need to build a ramp into a shed to roll carts in and out.It has to be removable.Door opening is 50", rise is 10" and I have 48" of space in front of the shed.Max weight on the ramp at one time will be 800 lbs. Will a piece of 3/4" plywood, 48"x48" (unsupported) work? <Q> Why not put a shallow triangle slightly inset from each side and one in the center? <S> These could be hinged to lie flat against the bottom of the ramp for storage. <S> Use a hook and eye on the side opposite the hinge to lock the wedges in place when in use. <A> Also, you will need strong anchors where it latches to the shed because that is where all the force will be applied. <S> Landscaping equipment suppliers sell ramps for getting mowers and stuff into trailers and some of the ramp systems that have two tracks are relatively light. <S> Do an Amazon search for "trailer ramp". <A> Yes. <S> I think your 3/4" plywood will work for the span described, However. <S> I would go buy some steel square tubing (also around 3/4") and run braces down from the high point to the low point. <S> just two supports will be sufficient. <S> and I would also definitely bolt the plywood to the steel struts (using at least 3 bolts on each strut). <S> I really think that will be way sufficient for the 800lbs required.
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If you want a flat ramp with no supports it will have to be of steel, probably at least 3/8" and that sucker will be extremely heavy. Normally, for something like this you always have support of some kind. For a removable solution the obvious plan would be to use ramps.
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Would it make sense to have a bathroom without a sink? I had this idea to maximize the amount of space in my small bathroom, to redo it and the kitchen in one go, put the kitchen sink next to the bathroom, and skip the bathroom sink. A quick internet search doesn't give me any examples of this being done, but I can't think of a reason not to do it. Sure, it's a little strange, and guests might think I'm crazy, but hand-washing is just a door away... Is there a reason not to do this, beyond "not normal", or resale value, because I've already considered this ? Are there examples of this being done anywhere ? <Q> Unless every one of your guests wipes the inside door knob down (and disposes of the cleaning material) each time, you have no guarantee of hygiene, assuming you do the same thing. <S> Each time. <S> And, it's a kitchen. <S> What if you need to clean up a little kid who's not quite potty trained? <S> Would you go back and forth between sink and toilet? <S> How about vomit in the bathroom? <S> How would you clean that up without needing to rush back and forth? <S> So many other use cases come to mind. <S> Yeah, I wouldn't recommend this. <A> The are toilets with a sink built into the tank, an image search of "toilet sink" will show you several designs. <S> These have the upside that you save a bit of water as the run-of of the sink will be used to help fill the tank after you flush. <A> I think you should always consider resale with remodeling projects. <S> Without a sink it is no longer considered a half bath. <S> A buyer would look at it as an expense and a "have to do" project. <S> As a woman and former Realtor, put in a sink! <S> There are plenty of space saving/ <S> smaller size sink options available. <A> Ignoring the hygiene implications, there's a social reason not to do this. <S> We all know that hand-washing after visiting the toilet is advised, but many people don't bother. <S> Particularly after a less... <S> significant trip to the toilet. <S> Having a sink outside the toilet draws attention to the habits of others that perhaps you'd rather not know about. <A> Ratchet Freak's suggestion is good, though they are always a little awkward. <S> But do have a big benefit of being the only plumbing fixture you need to plumb. <S> Before committing to that, though, do note that they make really small sinks. <S> A few examples from a quick Google image search:
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Sanitation, resale, convenience should be enough reasons to put in a sink. We humans have evolved to that point where we generally don't allow (or try not to allow) fecal bacteria to commingle with the stuff that we eat.
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Should I proactively replace old GFCI outlets? The way I understand this page about GFCI outlets : (a) GFCI outlets can fail after about 10 years, making them unable to detect faults, (b) when outlets made after 2006 fail, they shut off power automatically, and (c) pre-2006 outlets fail silently: they can't detect faults but they continue to provide power. That seems like a big safety hazard, and a good reason to replace my old GFCI outlets before they fail. However, I haven't found anyone recommending proactive replacement, and if this was a legitimate safety concern I'd expect people to shout it from the rooftops. So are the old outlets worth replacing? Or am I just getting worried over nothing? The GFCI outlets in my house were installed in the mid-90s (in the USA). And they're passing the tests with a GFCI outlet tester. <Q> I think this depends on the quality of your old outlets. <S> A lot of times builders might use the lowest quality for outlets and I have gone through houses that were 10-15 years old and just spent a day replacing them all. <S> However with GFCIs it is not very common for these to be cheaply made. <S> They would have to probably be quite a bit older than 10 years old to be junk GFCIs. <S> So I would keep them unless another GFCI in the same room fails. <S> I like my outlets to generally match if they are right next to each other but that is just aesthetic preference. <S> Really though if you are talking about electricity in general (save for very old knob and tub or aluminum) if you touch it there is much more chance of you causing an issue than you preventing one. <A> I seriously doubt that a meaningful quantity of GFCIs fail after only 10 years. <S> Maybe that's just the typical warranty length. <S> If you're concerned, GFCI outlets have a test function, which simulates a ground fault (or use your GFCI tester, which probably does the same thing). <S> Test them monthly, if you desire. <A> Since you are asking, seems like you are concerned. <S> You can read about AFCI Breakers/Outlets and replace the ones in your bedrooms too. <S> http://www.ehow.com/info_8324361_afci-receptacle-outlet.html http://www.ehow.com/how_8025734_connect-fault-breaker-panel-box.html <A> As the article you cited states, if they pass with a GFCI plug in tester (not the test button built into the receptacle), they are still good. <S> Why change them?
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If its a matter of being proactive or having piece of mind, At $10-$15 an outlet do one a month and have a safer piece of mind.
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Can I drill/rivet into my Fridge? I would like to attach a clasp/latch to the side of my fridge/freezer, so that I can tell when it is closed at a glance, and to make closing it a concious effort. The fridge is from some time in the 90s (maybe even 80s), and is 4th hand (I know its last 4 owners). I just want to squeeze a few more months/years out of it. I initially attached it with hot-glue, but that came off when I forgot it was there and opened the latched door. I moved up to superglue, which has the same thing happen when my mother-in-law opened the door. So next up would be to drill a hole and use pop-rivets to hold it inplace once and for all.But I am not sure what is actually inside the fridge wall?Is it safe to drill a hole in the side?Will it damage the fridge/freezer -- assuming on don't penetrate the inner layer. Does the same hold for the door? My other option is to use 2 part epoxy resin / Araldite.Though I would rather rivets. <Q> Do not drill. <S> I did, big mistake. <S> Did not drill deep, and drilling was not the demise of the fridge. <S> I used short sheet metal screws. <S> First two went ok. <S> The third offset screw punctured a line. <S> Had the Company not insisted it be done <S> Right <S> Now, I would research alternative applications. <S> Marine lock made by 3-M company, sells adhesive pads with cable to padlock door shut. <S> Reviews <S> we're all good. <S> Just look up marine lock for fridge. <S> NO HAPPY DRILLING <S> HERE ! <A> Drilling into side is not safe. <S> A coolant tube may or may not be there, but you will mess up the thermal insulation for sure, creating dew point and similar problems. <S> Those may not manifest within few months, but the risk of letting the genie out is simply too big. <S> Use a double-sided foam tape, the kind that's used to secure towel hooks to ceramic tiles. <S> It's sold in rolls for eg mounting mirrors. <S> If you use sufficiently large area (like 5x10cm), it will actually have MORE strength than rivets, because a rivet is not very strong in a thin sheet, while the foam tape will distribute the load evenly. <S> Just make sure that the surface is degreased and cleaned thoroughly and that the part holding the door wraps around and is glued to the front of the door, because there simply is not enough area on the side of the door for any firm grip. <S> A rather extreme idea is to use a lock that wraps around whole thing, like a ratchet strap. <S> In this case, the glue would only serve to keep the lock at proper height, and once locked it would keep the thing impossible to open. <S> Just make sure it's routed properly at the back and not putting stress on fragile parts like heatsink (eg route it under the heatsink). <S> You may want to consider removing the original handle and attaching a new handle that will hold quite weakly and is easily reattached, to serve as a "fuse" in case of someone forgetting it's locked. <S> /edit <S> : Look here for the general idea. <S> One pad on the front of the door, one on the side of the main body, uses "3M VHB adhesive pads" for installation. <A> As the other answers have addressed the title question, let's look at your scenario: <S> You want closing/latching your refrigerator to be an explicit matter. <S> Have you looked into child safety locks? <S> The adhesive-mounted ones such as this are quite effective, in my experience. <S> I've used used that company's mounting magnets (with a machine screw, not eyehook) to hold a DSLR to the top of a car moving down the highway, and can attest to their strength. <A> Sure, I don't see why not. <S> All the AC coils are behind and underneath <S> but I'd use sheet metal screws (no chance of penetrating the inner wall) as I'm not a fan of rivets. <S> Inside the fridge wall it's just full of spray foam. <S> Puncturing the inner wall is more of an aesthetic concern then worrying <S> you might be causing some giant loss in efficiency. <S> Consider adhering magnetic strips along the door seal. <S> Or level the fridge so that it leans back a little and gravity will close the door. <S> I hope your going to use a clasp that doesn't 'lock': Refrigerator death .
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If you're not comfortable with adhesives, combine these mounting magnets with a bungee cord. A temperature alarm such as this would also be very effective at the underlying issue--ensuring your fridge's content remains cool, and alerting you when it isn't.
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Use Gap and crack sealant on the window sill I have a small gap ( 2mm ) under the window sill that is causing some draft to come inside the house. I have attempted to correct this using the Ge Silicone Caulk, but the draft continues to come in. So I am going to now try the gap and crack sealant in that area? The name of the product is Gaps and Cracks Insulating Foam Sealant and it is available at home depot. How can I stop the draft from coming in? Is this the right product that I should use? The temperature outside is 20 degrees F. <Q> If the product your talking about is GreatStuff (which it sounds like it is), you'll want to use the window and door variety instead. <S> The gap and crack formula expands too much, whereas the window and door stuff doesn't expand as much. <A> If you caulked it and there's still a leak, you didn't caulk the whole gap. <S> Air isn't going to come through silicone caulk. <S> Another possibility is that there are additional gaps and holes in the area. <S> Caulk the heck out of every gap you can find. <S> If you really want to do a thorough job, you can temporarily remove the trim and seal the exposed area between the rough opening and the window with expanding foam--be sure to get the kind that Tester101 recommended for this--the low-expansion window & door foam--and then replace the trim. <S> And if your windows are of the very old variety that have poor seals, add stick-on compressible foam gaskets to the sliding sashes that contact the frame. <S> You'd be surprised how much that can help. <A> How old is this window? <S> In the past, I have had air come in from between the panes and around the window tracks on older (~1900's) homes. <S> Do you hear the window move when the draft is felt? <S> If so, you have to seal around the window on the inside. <S> There are tons of methods which range from temporary to permanent. <S> Keep in mind that caulking the window shut may complicate your egress in the event of a fire. <S> Many older windows are painted shut, so that may be a non-issue. <S> To stop the draft until you are able to locate it, you may want to hang an old comforter, buy heavy curtains (some are insulated) or place some other type of temporary thermal barrier over the window.
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For such a small gap, expanding foam is overkill and may do more harm than good if it expands too much and widens the gap, which could cause the window to start sticking. If the windows have wood trim, caulk that to the drywall and the windows using color-matched or clear caulk. Windows--especially old ones--are notorious sources of air leaks.
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How does this 1 wire to 2 fixtures & 2 switches work? Is it safe? I am cleaning up my basement and came across an open junction in a closet between 2 adjacent rooms; I will call them "paint room" and "radio room". I know open junctions are not good so after turning off the power, I was going to disconnect it all and put in a junction box mounted on a stud and hook everything back up. But after taking what must have been half a roll of electrical tape off I am not sure about the entire thing. There is one 14/2 wire that runs between the light fixture in the radio room and the light fixture in the paint room. The covering is stripped off this wire at the open junction. There is a 2nd wire - 12/3 coming in from direction of the main panel. The 3rd wire (red color, not ground) in this 12/3 is snipped off. The black wire from the 12/3 goes to the 14/2 black wire in the radio room. The white wire from the 12/3 goes to the 14/2 black wire in the paint room. The white wire between the radio and paint rooms (remember it is 1 14/2 wire between the 2 rooms), is not broken, nor is the ground wire, though the ground wire from the 12/3 goes to nowhere. I thought the white "neutral" wire in the 12/3 had no power?? There are separate wall mounted switches that are wired directly to the light, and not from the panel. Still don't understand it. I probably should have left well enough alone..but my question is, is it safe? Should I even mess with it any further??? Picture attached. Roberto <Q> It looks like they spliced in a switch loop in the middle of the run. <S> and the ground to the switch is missing. <S> Then the whites (neutrals) should be pigtailed together. <S> So should the grounds. <S> Then the black should be connected to the power source and red to the light being switched. <S> At the switch itself <S> you cap of the white, connect the ground to the ground screw and connect the black and red to be switched. <A> I think your assumptions about where the wiring goes from and to are wrong. <S> That wiring makes sense if the 12/3 is actually the switch for one of the two rooms; that 12/3 is not coming from the main panel. <S> To really fix this, you're going to have to figure out for certain where those wires are going. <S> At a minimum, that junction will have to go in a junction box. <S> The gauge of the wire could be fine, although not quite kosher. <S> If this particular junction is representative of the quality of the rest of your house, then you've got an accident just waiting to happen. <A> That's not electrician work, that's bozo <S> work right there -- a clear and present violation of 300.15 in the NEC (2014 edition linked) : <S> Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings - <S> Where Required. <S> A box shall be installed at each outlet and switch point for concealed knob-and-tube wiring. <S> Fittings and connectors shall be used only with the specific wiring methods for which they are designed and listed. <S> Where the wiring method is conduit, tubing, Type AC cable, Type MC cable, Type MI cable, nonmetallic-sheathed cable, or other cables, a box or conduit <S> body shall be installed at each conductor splice point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, or pull point, unless otherwise permitted in 300. <S> 15(A) through (L). <S> Turn the power off, take it apart <S> (tag or otherwise note which wires are hooked together!), put a screw-in box in (you should be able to screw it to the joist), feed the cables into the box (make sure they are clamped or otherwise fastened securely both as they enter the box and within 12" of the box), reassemble the junction inside said box, bond the box to the EGCs with a bare or green pigtail, and put a cover plate on the box. <S> Then, go on a Code violation Easter-egg hunt; if you happen to have friends who are in the electrical trade, feel free to invite them along as well ;) <S> (BTW: the box I linked is simply an example -- if any of the electricians roaming around here want to suggest a better box for this job, just leave it in the comments and I'll update the link :)
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The proper way to wire it is first of all in a junction box. The bottom bunble will end up in a switch that controls the light in one of the rooms. You owe it to yourself and the continued safety of your house and family to inspect as much electrical wiring as possible. However the colors are not correctly matched.
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How do I remove paint from pipes? I have exposed piping throughout my condo that is used for the sprinkler system. It has been painted white. I would like to remove the paint and leave the pipes in their natural color. The building is 100 years old but was converted to condos in 2007. By the way the sprinkler pipes are coordinated with the unit's walls (which were put up during the conversion), it's a safe bet that they were installed and painted at the time of the conversion and that lead paint was not used. What is the best way to do this? I am considering a heat gun as it is the least messy, least toxic option. However, from what I've seen, this method requires a putty knife to scrape up the paint after it has been heated. I don't imagine that would work well with a round pipe. Would a heat gun still work or am I better off getting a paint remover? <Q> If the paint is in good condition, with no chips, peeling unsightly blemishes I would repaint. <S> It would be a lot of work to get the pipes really clean. <S> Any exposed thread at the fittings will be tough to strip <S> You will need to scuff the old finish to promote adhesion. <S> Pick a metal color. <S> Rustoleum has colors like Bare cast iron, nickel, brass etc. <S> You could accent the fittings with a contrasting color. <S> Just be careful when working around the sprinkler heads. <A> The "original" color doesn't exist Actual pipe color is not what you think. <S> Naked pipe is very dingy gray that quickly turns rust red. <S> The pipe you see in buildings is Sched 40 water pipe and it is silver/gray. <S> Your sprinkler pipe is Sched 80, which comes from the factory painted black. <S> Looks like gas pipe. <S> Larger fittings are typically red. <S> Example. <S> The blemishes on the pipe are not an illusion. <S> That is wear and tear. <S> So just over paint it black and done. <S> If you're thinking "galvanized silver" you can get that as paint , but your inspector won't like seeing what looks like schedule 40 in a sprinkler system. <S> Many places I see <S> , sprinkler pipes are intentionally painted red. <S> This designates that it is a completely separate water system, not to be treated lightly, and keeps some idiot handyman from tapping it for a refrigerator's icemaker. <A> You say condo, so I assume it is not much older than 1978, so lead paint is not a worry. <S> If this is an older condo building then that comment is null. <S> Like I said, I think a heat gun is likely your cleanest bet. <S> Definitely wear a respirator, NOT just a mask. <A> Tap with hammer. <S> Breaks up all the dry paint to the core. <S> Gently tap and use a putty knife with hammering technique to remove where it gets hats to tech. <S> The tapping breaks up the paint.
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Stripper or sanding will be very messy and/or create a ton of dust. With a heat gun all you will have is chips and dry clumps falling pretty much straight down.
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How to hang a chair from the ceiling joists (with attic access) I'm planning on hanging a chair from the ceiling. From what I can tell the best method is to add a crosspiece above multiple joists, and mount the chair to that using an eye bolt. The problem with that is that there is a reasonably large distance between the eye, and the crosspiece. I can't find a suitable eyebolt (rated to carry a load) that is long enough to cover the space needed. The longest I've found is 225mm overall (so about 207mm ceiling to top of beam). I would need one at least 300mm long overall, Is this a suitable method, and do eye bolts of the required length exist that will carry the load? <Q> Don't use an eye bolt! <S> Anyone who swings in the chair, especially in a circular motion, will take the bolt right out of the nut, through the joist, and into the floor. <S> How do I know? <S> Because both of my kids managed to do this with two different hanging chairs. <S> There is a part which can be described as such: A steel plate that attaches to the joist through drywall with four bolts. <S> In the center of the plate is a swivel hook, to which you attach a latch. <S> The swivel part ensures that the swinging motion is localized and doesn't move an eye bolt, allowing it to unscrew itself. <A> Look for a "threaded eye nut" with your strength requirements. <S> (Breaking strength <S> =4000 kg usually translates into safe working load of 400kg.) <S> Use a plain threaded rod (readily available in the length you need) and a good sized metal plate as a washer (I'd suggest 100mm^2, ~6 <S> mm thick). <S> From the scale of your drawing, I'm inferring that the board you're using over the joists will cross 4 joists and be fairly substantial. <S> If you're concerned about a lot of swinging (ie, children), then it might be a good idea to place a wide-ish timber (a 2x8 on this side of the pond; is that a 37x180?) snug between the middle joists and on top of the ceiling with the rod running through. <S> A couple of screws to pin it in place would help. <A> Would just add more support near the point of the ceiling, that way any swing in the chair will not destroy your ceiling. <S> otherwise, yes its just a matter of getting a long enough threaded eye. <S> Which you should easily find at a bolt and nut supplier. <S> If you are struggling to get a long enough eye. <S> you can use a threaded bar extender (hex coupling)... <S> I think its strong enough, just get two lock nuts to tie on each side. <S> that will allow you to join the bolt to a threaded rod. <S> If you use this method, then you need bolts on the support near the ceiling (ie. <S> on the actual threaded eye) that way it will not free turn and come loose. <S> Then once its connected, also use a lock nut to secure it better and drill a hole through the centre and put a split pin to make sure its strong. <S> (you aslo get the shorter ones)
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Your last idea is to get a threaded eye like these.
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How can I fit a pipe inside another pipe? Does anyone here with experience in plumbing or piping know if a 3/4" pipe can fit inside a 1" pipe to the point where you can slide it in and out like a telescope to make an adjustable stand post? According to this link and if my math is correct, the inner diameter of a 1" SCH 40 pipe is 1.049" and the outer diameter of a 3/4" SCH 40 pipe from the chart is 1.05" which is .001" too big. If I were to go to Home Depot would this difference matter? Also I have a random question, are "all-purpose" drill bits able to drill through galvanized steel piping and is there a good method for drilling on round surfaces? The reason I'm doing this is because I'm trying to build a DIY bike repair stand with an adjustable height. It's loosely based off this , but with a "Quik Klamp 3-Way Open Corner 1" (sorry I couldn't post another link) acting as the base-support piece mainly because the whole thing could be disassembled and I'm hoping a bit more solid. <Q> If this is PVC, 3/4' will slip inside 1" Class 200. <S> The class 200 has a thinner wall, so is larger inside. <A> It is not a near interference fit like other styles of pipe and thus does not bind up. <S> This is nice because copper is easy to work with (it solders) and is strong but light weight. <S> Rigid copper fittings of all sorts are available to allow making all the corners of your stand. <A> I would look at the twist lock connectors that you get for tent poles, they are quite strong and you have no limit to the length settings. <S> twist lock adapter <S> Otherwise the most reliable route would just be to drill lots of holes and used pins through the tubing. <A> I hand drill water wells in Africa and design hand pumps from whatever pipes are available locally. <S> We do this all the time. <S> You can fit a 1/2" into 3/4" or 3/4" into 1" etc. <S> Just use a torch to evenly heat the last inch or two of the larger pipe. <S> When it is soft enough, twist and push the smaller pipe into the larger. <S> If you want to glue the two together, as it cools, keep wiggling and twisting the smaller pipe or the larger will shrink so tight it is difficult to get apart. <S> Then take the two apart, glue and push back together. <A> I used a threaded pipe coupling on a base. <S> I found a pc of plate steel or an old industrial fan base. <S> Weld the coupling to the base, I used 2". <S> Then find a used piece of @ <S> " threaded on one end, I cut mine about 2' long and screwed it into the coupling on base. <S> Find a piece of scrap 1 1/2 in pipe about 2-3' long <S> and it will fit easily into the 2". <S> About 3" down from the end of the 2" pipe drill/tap for 5/16 bolt in 1 or 2 places. <S> This will lock it into any position up, down or rotate. <S> Put a 1 1/2" tee or 90 on the end of the 1 1/2" and put a padded clamp or something on it to secure your bike. <S> You could thread or glue 1 1/2" pvc into your 90 or tee to hand your bike on for a no scratch mount. <S> Or cut the top out partially for a "U" to drop your bike or seatpost into.
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Right copper tubing of 3/4" size telescopes nicely inside 1" right copper tubing.
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Any way to do a mitered corner without a table saw? I want to use some left over wood from a table i did to build a 1ft^3 storage box to use in the living room. The wood has a beautiful pattern but it is plywood so i do not want to expose the edges. Is there any way to accomplish the 45 degree cuts on the edges without a table saw? something like this: <Q> Your circular saw should be able to cut the 45 degree angle, there should be a lever to allow you to tilt the plate thus tilting the bade. <S> Something like this <S> Then to get a Straight cut you need a guide along one edge. <S> You need something longer than the piece you are cutting and wide enough to clamp it to it and have enough room to run the saw along the edge for a straight cut. <S> Something like this , although this is a special clamp guide, you could just use something a bit wider with some other clamps. <A> It will cover the seams. <S> Use an "external corner" molding. <S> You can cut it with almost any wood saw. <S> It is usually available in several species of wood. <S> It will stain, paint or finish like the panels. <A> When the occasion arose and I did not have a table saw for repeated accurate cuts, I got a piece of 3/4" plywood, in your case maybe a 2'X3' piece would do, plunge the blade of a circular saw through the plywood or better yet cut a 1"X6" hole in the middle of the plywood to set a circular saw blade through. <S> Using fender washers and screws, clamp the saw to the plywood locking the base of the saw in tightly. <S> If you don't mind a few holes in the base of your saw, screw directly through the base after you drill a few holes in it as close to the corners as practical. <S> this Is what I did, they come in handy for other purposes too. <S> As a mention, needless to say you need to govern how long the screws are <S> so they don't go all the way through, if they do, grind them flush. <S> Turn the whole thing over <S> so the saw is under the plywood and the blade is the only thing showing, just like a table saw. <S> Set your angle, set a scrap piece of wood for a fence, adjusting it for it being parallel with the blade using scraps to test cut and check the width of your cut, then make your parts for your box. <S> With a little planning you may only need to change the fence 3 times or so to do the whole thing. <S> Once you get the fist cut set up right, draw a line on the table to serve as a parallel reference to save all the tweaking for each cut. <S> As a caution, no there is no guard, yes you can cut your fingers off with this, same as a table saw. <S> BE CAREFULL!! <S> Last tip, get yourself a decent blade for this type of cut, the joinery will turn out sweet, using tape along, not across, the joints to hold it all together until the glue dries. <S> The link is for a 24 tooth blade, some folks may say you need more teeth, I have seen some blades with 10 teeth cut satin smooth cuts, this is all you will need.
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If you have a limited amount of woodworking tools you could use molding.
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Is 150 CFM ventilation fan right choice for bathroom in my older condo? My bathroom ventilation fan broke up and I am shopping for a new better one. I noticed the newer fans are higher CFM through-put and are quieter, I have narrowed down my choice to this one . My question is that my condo was built in 1980 so its older, will this fan still do a good job and be quiter? I have read in some product reviews/youtube installation that high CFM fans require bigger ducts. I live in 3 floor condo building. I only have access to the bathroom and nothing outside. Will this 150 CFM be still a good option for me or I just need to go with the lower ranking basic fan? The bathroom size is 7 ft by 5 ft. I have no idea of about the ducts size. Update I end up asking my condo management and I am told the duct is 6 inches which is great. Now I am gonna go with 150 CFM and I am buying this from Amazon which is way cheaper than others but I worry if this will fit? I took my current one dimensions (from outside) and is 12 by 10.5 inches. The one at amazon shows bigger but I think all new ones will be standard sizes. Should I be worrying about physical dimensions? Thanks! <Q> Calculate the CFM Needed. <S> (Length X Width X Height)/7.5 <S> (7 x 5 x 8)/7.5 = <S> 37.3 CFM <S> Did the 7x5 include a Shower/tub area too? <S> If so, the 50 CFM should be fine. <S> That Fan is a bit overkill for your bathroom, that said Mine is a 190CFM for the same size. <S> The issue you are going to run into is that the fan you chose has a 6" Duct coming from it. <S> Typically fans from a Bathroom are 3" or 4" for something that size. <S> It would be Similar to your Dryer Vent where it Exits the house, so that should give you an Idea. <S> If you can get the Part number of the Existing Fan and look it up you should be able to google it to determine its Duct Size. <S> If your Duct run was less than 2' you might get away with it, but if not you would probably void the fan warranty. <S> Find the Duct you have and then get a Fan that Supports its. <A> It's very difficult to determine what type of ducting was used and if that ducting was properly installed or has an obstructions just by the era the building was built. <S> Since the fan is broken you can try removing it to see what size ducting is currently in place. <S> If your current fan was doing a good job before it broke... <S> meaning you didn't have moisture or mold issues, fogged mirrors, etc... <S> then sticking with the same CFM fan would be a good idea. <S> The new fans should generally be quieter and more energy efficient. <S> The Home Ventilating Institute recommends a minimum 1 CFM per sq foot in bathrooms <S> smaller than 100 sq ft . <S> That will give you the minimum 8 air changes per hour in a bathroom with standard 8' ceilings with a 50CFM minimum. <S> For your bathroom you'd need a minimum of 35 CFM. <S> Panasonic makes those WhisperCeiling Fans in various sizes. <S> Larger CFM fans will have a 6" duct and smaller fans have a 4" duct. <S> The WhisperGreen fans use less energy and the smaller sized ones come with the option of connecting to 4" or 6" ducts. <S> Larger CFM fans have a 6" duct. <S> The ducts create resistance so a larger duct mitigates that. <S> If you have 4" ducts and the ducting isn't very long you should be fine <S> but I don't think you need the 150 CFM fan. <S> If you can take the old fan out you might be able to tell if the duct is a short straight run if you can see daylight through the duct. <A> A 50 cfm should be sufficient for a 35 sf bathroom. <S> 1 cfm per 1 sf is a good rule of thumb.
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The larger duct size is recommended if the ducting is very long. There are Downsize collars that would downsize the 6" to 3 or 4" though that is not recommended as you will cause back pressure on the Fan as it can't push the required CFM out the smaller hole.
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What can I do about water leaking behind the shower tray? Background:I've moved into a house 3 months ago that I have been renovating for a while. I have done a lot of the work myself but I left my builder to do the plumbing and tiling while I was away for work. If I spray the tiles in the shower for 5 mintues, water starts tricking out from behind the shower tray. If I just run the shower into multiple buckets then no leak occurs so it can't be the pipes or the waste.I have uploaded pictures here (You can see the shower tray is not flush with the wall)I re-siliconed around the tray / tile boundary and I tried a grout sealer which seemed to stop the problem for a few weeks but now the issue is back again. I know he tiled straight onto green plasterboard and used Bal Micromax 2 grout. Do you think the grout has failed? Would this happen if we did not let the grout cure for long enough? How long is not long enough? Should I expect the grout to be waterproof? If not is their waterproof gout on the market? Would removing the grout and re-grouting fix the problem? I also thought about removing the bottom row of tiles and trying to reseat the try against the wall but I am not sure that will help either... He was a nice guy so I am sure this is how he always does it and I know he has done 50+ jobs without issue (unfortunately he has moved country so I have lost contact with him and cant even bounce some ideas off him to troubleshoot) <Q> Tile over green drywall is not waterproof; you will get water migrating through the group and into the drywall. <S> The best thing to do is to tear down tiled walls, put up a new solid backing, and then put a waterproof membrane over the backing. <S> Then tile goes on the backing. <S> Kerdi is a common backing, and that will be waterproof on top of a drywall backing, though I'd probably use a fiberglass-reinforced version. <A> When you spray the tiles, where does the water come from? <S> If the shower's plumbing, the leak may be arising from feed lines junctions beneath the tile at the head or the faucet handle. <S> I'd start by spraying the tiles without using water from the shower's plumbing. <S> Pour a few gallons of water from pails (filled elsewhere) onto the tile to confirm that the leak is not coming from the feed line plumbing. <S> Water also might be entering around the faucet cover plate or along the shower door seal. <S> It's unlikely to be the grout in the tile field since the thinset should have sealed the tiles too well for any real water flow to occur. <S> Sealing the grout would repel any water that much more. <S> I agree that the bottom most row of tiles could also be the source of leakage, if it wasn't sealed properly to the pan. <S> But a close visual inspection ought to indicate gaps or misalignments. <S> If it looks tight it probably is. <S> You might also want to temporarily tape a plastic sheet (e.g. garbage bag) over each suspected source of leakage before re-wetting the shower and looking for seepage. <S> This may not seal perfectly but it should slow the leak enough to help you to exclude or confirm each possible source. <S> (Am I seeing things? <S> In your picture #4, at the bottom right of the bottom-most right-most glass tile where the surround meets the pan... <S> it looks like there's a small hole in the bottom corner of that tile.) <A> The basic requirement when two tiled/ceramic surfaces meet at an angle other than the same plane is to use silicone. <S> Do not use grout as invariably there is movement which will crack the grout and allow water egress into other substrates and weaken them, which will give you a headache. <S> If so, then re-grout using waterproof/flexible grout. <S> If there are large gaps at the bottom then "Dob&Dab" may have been used to affix the tiles. <S> In which case, remove the tiles and re-plaster and when dried re-tile. <S> Perfect finish. <S> When this has been done silicone the vertical corners but no need to use tape. <S> One other thing. <S> Have the frames for the glass panels been siliconed before they were screwed in place? <S> Make sure. <S> The skirting board/floor joint close to the shower should be siliconed also, This is a wet room. <S> Tiling straight onto plasterboard however, is incorrect as the area has to be "Tanked" first. <S> Kits are available for shower areas at all good DIY farms. <S> The shower tray should be tight against the two walls as mentioned previously. <S> Good luck
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Sealing the bottom joint is best done by masking the tile and the shower tray to a spoons distance and "pushing" the bathroom silicone in the using a teaspoon, drag the waste out, smooth-off with wet finger, remove tape straight away and finally smooth-off again with wet finger. Some things to check: Get a grout scraper and scrape the joints from about 4 or 5 feet up down to the tray to see if there are any gaps.
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Do I need a vent fan in an interior laundry room? I am renovating a few rooms including an existing laundry room. It currently has one exterior window and another openable window onto an existing mudroom (which also has exterior windows). After the renovation, the laundry will lose the exterior window as an existing bathroom is extended. The interior window into the mudroom will survive. Does the Uniform Building Code require that a room with no exterior windows have an exhaust vent fan? Does the existence of the interior openable window into a room with exterior windows have a bearing on that? (I do realize that local regulations may vary from the Uniform Code, but my jurisdiction generally follows those regs.) [I know there is a related question here , but I have no air conditioning and I am wondering about the additional interior window.] <Q> In fact, most dryers are essentially acting as exhaust fans when they run because they take air from the room and exhaust it outside. <A> Washington State requires a minimum 50 CFM exhaust fan in the laundry room. <A> Whilst you're specifically asking about the Uniform Building Control, I'll add this as this answers the question for people wanting to know the answer that would be compliant with UK building regulations: In the UK, utility rooms in newly built homes require either a continuous airflow of 8 litres per second, or a switchable (intermittent) fan capable of at least 30 litres per second. <S> A window alone may not be sufficient to provide this sort of airflow. <A> The 2015 IRC (international residential code) requires a 50 cfm fan in the laundry and bath rooms - the exhaust fan is for moisture control <A> As far as I know no active fan is required by code in laundry rooms. <S> Washers generate very little ambient moisture. <S> However if you intend to vent the dryer indoors <S> then you certainly will need some form of added ventilation to distribute the moisture across a much larger space, probably using a powered fan. <S> Dryers produce even more humidity than do bathrooms, so careful venting is essential.
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Most laundries vent the dryer outdoors which is sufficient to dissipate humidity from the room. No, this is not a code requirement for laundry rooms in dwelling units (at least in the 2012 IBC).
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Could mice be escaping traps because the traps are being reused? We've caught 6 or so mice using the classic snap traps. Being frugal, we tried washing and re-using the traps. We're getting mixed results. The mice are clearly nibbling the food (peanut butter, cheese) and escaping the traps. The only thing we can identify that is different is trap re-use. Or is there something else going on? Note: We are and will remain a no-cats home. <Q> Just check that there's not a little rust or something developed that is causing them to stick. <S> You could try a square of chocolate as the bait. <S> If you heat the pin on the trigger platform, you can push the chocolate on and it's stuck there. <S> That makes it harder for the mice to get away with the bait. <A> I have personally moved to the "plastic cheese" traps and use them with no bait (other than the supposed, and probably fictional IMHO, "odor in the plastic." <S> They have a large target area and a trigger of adjustable sensitivity - if it gets stepped on, it gets tripped. <S> I reuse them without undue care <S> (I do leave them out in the weather for a while if they are covered in mouse-blood - if they get a clean kill, I just remove the mouse with a plastic bag or gloves, and re-set it.) <S> I place them in likely looking spots, and sometimes arrange barriers to guide mouse traffic into them - and I'll use multiples in one location. <S> Any baited trap will, unfortunately, select for smart, hungry mice. <S> The last mouse I removed (Sunday night) was in a 2-year old (at least) trap that has caught 6 or more mice in the past 4 months, and is somewhat rusty, with weathered wood (it's had the weather treatment a few times.) <S> The rust does not seem to affect its function, though I'm sure that the spring will break eventually. <A> I believe it comes down to smell, that of you and dead mouse. <S> Sanitize them over the stove for a few seconds. <S> Ecnerwal's 'weathering' technique probably works just as well or better. <S> Mice have a very keen sense of smell. <S> If they start to avoid traps, it could be because they sense a human smell around the trap. <S> That is why it is always best to wear gloves when handling mouse traps. <S> You also need to clean mouse traps thoroughly. <S> It’s actually more likely that they sense the build up of the smell of death on the trap, or the build up of a human smell through repeated handling. <S> They will likely not know that the trap can kill them, just that a dead mouse was there, or that a human was there, and they would rather not be there. <S> - Are mice smart enough to avoid traps? <S> - pest-control-products.net <A> I had the same trouble with the classic snap traps: a blob of peanut butter would just get licked away. <S> My solution was to add a tube of tape around the trigger and bait, so that it was tough to get all the peanut butter; that way the mouse would end up tugging and chewing, and snappo. <A> Smashing a raisin down, onto the trigger plate of regular, wooden, snap traps is a great way to get the mice to commit. <A> Mouse and rat traps work better with time. <S> Speaking to a pest control guy he indicated that the traps originally smell very foreign to mice and rats. <S> Last time I had to trap rats I put baited but unset traps out so the traps would pick up the body oils of the rodents. <S> The next day, after the bait was gone, I put bait on (stale bread covered in peanut butter, really jammed on there) and set them. <S> I caught three rats in one day, using the same traps back to back. <S> Priming them without being set and reusing them apparently increases their catching ability. <S> I can attest that this works with rats: I caught 16 rats in three weeks using the same trap. <A> We had a similar experience and it turned out that unfortunately we had mice and rats! <S> A rat can trip a mouse trap and escape unharmed because they are significantly larger. <S> You might try a couple of the large rat traps with peanut butter as well. <S> You could also try placing the mouse traps in the center of a glue board. <S> They would get stuck when trying to escape. <S> Good luck! <A> I had a problem with mice licking peanutbutter out of trap without settling it off! <S> Then a guy told me raw bacon because they Have to tug on it! <S> Worked awesome got rid them in no time!It's been over 10 years and no problems! <A> Just FYI if you want to catch mice 100% or close to it then you need to lay out glue traps or very elaborate door traps. <S> Anything else gives the mouse a chance.
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This is one reason why some people think mice are very smart, and can work out that Victor mouse traps are dangerous things for them. It's unlikely to be a major issue with reused traps. They can't easily remove the bait without engaging the trap.
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How do I extend an Ethernet cable at a wall socket? I have a wall socket in my kitchen but there isn't enough cable leaving the wall to attach a new RJ45 jack to (There's about an inch left to play with). There's no slack in the cable so I cannot pull more through. is there a way to extend the cable within the wall socket? <Q> Correct solution - replace the wire with a long enough wire. <S> This plays to "why network & telephone wires should always be run in conduit, always." <S> Kludge that will still be difficult with only an inch inside a box - put a plug on it and use a dual-jack extender. <A> You should have enough room to wire a keystone style <S> jack on the remaining cable. <S> It will be easier to do this than try and wire the remaining amount of cable to a RJ45 wall plate . <S> Note, most home improvement stores will have the network parts you need. <S> If that will not work and you don't have the means to run a new wire you will need to use an extension. <S> Note, this should be last resort. <S> Attach a keystone jack to the end of the cable that will just float in the wall. <S> Then make a short one foot cable, or cut a network cable you already have, with a RJ45 terminator on one end. <S> Connect the short length to the jack that is floating in the wall and then wire your network plate to it. <S> This method will introduce introduce interference on the line and if the run is already near its max then it might make the connection unstable/slow/unusable. <A> Is there a way you can attach a new cable at the old one and pull a new cable through the pipes? <S> Some tools: Connector tool . <A> Sometimes if you unplug the other end of the cable, you can get enough slack to put a terminator or jack on the end of the cable. <S> Then run a small bit of cable into the box. <S> Alternately, get an 8-way terminal block: http://www.newark.com/cinch/8-141/terminal-block-8way/dp/28F717 and use this to bridge the wire to another length of wire. <S> Then screw the terminal block to the sheetrock or to a stud. <S> Finally, you could also get a piece of protoboard, solder all 8 wires into the protoboard, and solder 8 wires from another piece of ethernet cable to join to the first piece. <S> Easy enough to do
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Once you have the jack on the end of the cable, you then snap it into the wall plate . Kludge that will work fine if you are OK with drywall and paint repairs - move the box 4" up the wall. You really should not attempt this, but if else fails, you should try this:
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How to fix sagging plaster under window We bought a 1928 house, the plaster is sagging here to the point it is flush with the trim. How should I go about repairing this? Is it worth fixing? Thanks <Q> There is a strong chance that what you see is drywall overlaid a plaster wall. <S> Plaster, does not sag or bow out as it is shown in your picture, not without severe cracking. <S> Plaster is very brittle and does not take well to any movement at all. <S> Based only on what the picture shows, the plaster did move, or cracked or fell off or something like that. <S> The remedy that somebody thought of, which is done a lot, is overlay the wall with drywall, whether it be 1/4" thick or thicker. <S> Flat window trim in homes the age your is typically very thick, 3/4"-7/8 <S> " thick, unless it was redone with newer stock. <S> Regardless, the trim's edge is covered to a degree by the wall material, suggesting an overlay of drywall over the plaster. <S> To answer your question, since the base is already off, so it appears, cut the offending section out to the original wall surface, remove whatever is creating the waves in the wall and re-shim if needed and reinstall the same thickness of new drywall that was removed. <S> It will still cover the trim to a degree, but it will be uniform. <A> The only option would be to replaster it. <S> Plastering requires great skill and in old houses you will often find plaster jobs done by run of the mill builders who are not really plastering artisans. <S> Therefore, over time you have problems such as the one pictured above. <S> Nowadays, it is practically impossible to find skilled plasterers, so a typical contractor will just want to replace it with drywall, which is much, much easier to install than real plaster. <A> You could sand it down, only to find yourself putting it back the way it was when the crack develops again. <S> Personally I'd caulk it (the trim) and be done with it, but I deal mostly with rentals. <S> If in my own home, it'd be dealt with when the plaster gets pulled off to do new insulation and re-wiring. <S> Is it worth fixing, to you ? <S> Slap a coat of paint on the whole thing and take a look at it. <S> Keep in mind <S> no one will ever look at it as hard as you are right now. <S> If it really bothers you, replace the trim board with one that has a larger edge. <S> The one you have there has a beveled edge that basically makes it look like it disappears in some spots (or someone hit it with a sander when they did that patch). <S> I'd be harder to tell that the wall was so wavy if the trim had more of an edge to it. <S> Beyond that, you might as well gut the place.
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What you have is most likely a bulge of drywall mastic that is covering a spot in the real plaster that likes to crack. A large bead of caulk where it isn't so close to the wall would alleviate some of the shadow and make it 'go away'; be more uniform. It would be less of a concern if your going to use the same paint on the walls as on the trim.
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Mounting TV on Plywood over Window I need to mount a TV over my window. It is a 70" TV and weighs 96 lbs. I was thinking of using the framing of the window, there are 2 studs that are 54" apart. I included a diagram of my idea but I am not sure if this idea is going to work. I was thinking of filling the gap between the windows with some wood and drill the plywood over that onto the 2 studs. Then drill the TV Mount onto the plywood. Are the studs too far apart with no support in the middle? Is this idea feasible? If so, how thick does the plywood need to be? What kind of hardware do I need, lag bolts, screws, etc...? How many do I need to drill into each stud? Any help would be much appreciated. <Q> You do not want to cover over the window with a TV. <S> That alone should make you take stock of this situation and see what a bad idea this is. <S> However there are a number of additional considerations as well. <S> This for both outbound escape and for inbound access by emergency personnel. <S> There is a reason windows are added to a house. <S> Obviously it is to allow light in so that the room does not look like a cave. <S> and you can even get them with an integrated post assembly that permits mounting the TV bracket with tilt and swivel capability. <S> Best with this approach is you can move it around if your change your TV room layout or go off to a different house. <S> Talking about moving. <S> Say you did move after you had mounted a TV over a window. <A> The weight of the TV (and don't forget the weight of the mounting bracket) is not that large. <S> Books on shelves routinely weigh much more than that. <S> And most of the pressure is downward. <S> You probably could get away with 1/2 inch board, but I would probably go to with 3/4 to reduce bowing. <S> Your proposed frame for the plywood seems very wide without middle support. <S> I would add horizontal members across the top and bottom that extend over the vertical window frame members, and an upright in the middle. <S> Your illustrated uprights, as well as my suggested middle brace, could fit between the upper and lower horizontal supports. <S> I would attach the plywood to the frame with numerous wood screws, probably #10 or 12, about 2" long. <S> I would space them no more than 8" apart. <S> I would use at least four lag bolts on each side, probably 5/16 or 3/8, long enough to reach 2" into the studs behind the window fascia boards. <S> All screw holes should be predrilled. <S> I think the best approach to mounting the bracket would be to use bolts and nuts with large fender washers through holes drilled in the plywood. <S> Probably 1/4" bolts. <S> You can do this. <S> But, as Paulster2 suggests, you need to consider whether you should . <A> just add two 2x4 in the middle that is what i did <S> there is no glare since the window is behind the tv
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I would attach the plywood/frame structure to the window framing with lag bolts, through both the plywood and your new framing. Windows have a role of safety exit possibility if you ever get caught trapped in a room during a fire. Lastly, putting a TV over a window is just weird. These do not have to be that expensive First of all there is the glare point that Paulster2 points out. Think of the mess in the window trim that would need repairing before you could sell. If you have no usable wall space to mount the TV then get your self a console table. Let's start with the plywood.
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How many Tapcons should be used to anchor a baseplate to a concrete floor? I'm building a non-structural wall in my basement. I'm using Pressure-treated lumber on top of a foam sill gasket to protect from any moisture. How many tapcons should be used per 8-foot length to ensure long lasting stability? <Q> I'd use 3 good ones in an 8 foot run; more if they don't feel solid. <S> (Since it's not structural, all you're really trying to do is hold the wall to the floor and resist any after-the-fact warp/twist issues.) <A> The sill or bottom plate you are securing to the concrete will likely not take any impact itself, but will have to accept impacts from studs attached to it. <S> This question shows a typical 2x4 can expect to hold well over 300 pounds of evenly distributed force over a 6 foot span with no issues. <S> It will handle sudden impacts of significantly greater magnitude before failing. <S> So you can expect the wood to be fine with only 3 positions along it secured to the floor. <S> A 3/16 tapcon, embedded in normal concrete one inch deep has a sheer strength of over 700 pounds. <S> You might want to secure it more frequently for purposes of vibration/noise reduction, or if your concrete is suspect, but beyond that you're wasting fasteners, drill bits, and time. <A> If you've prebuilt the wall, one per stud bay will provide sufficient clamping. <S> (6 total for 16inch stud spacing) <S> If you are stick-building in place , I like two at each end (staggered by an inch and countersunk). <S> Then 3 more at 2 ft intervals. <S> (7 total for 16inch stud spacing) <S> I use the 1/4 inch vs the 3/16 version for more strength. <S> The 3 1/2 x 1/4 are good for this task. <A> I'm doing something similar, except I'm using powder-actuated charges to push a nail in instead of a Tapcon scheme. <S> Same situation in the basement, too... non-load-bearing regular partition walls, with kids running around and all that. <S> See my earlier question here: <S> Is there a recommended distance between fasteners on sole plates? <S> In short, I'm using 3 fasteners, though that looks to be more than what's necessary. <A> My rule of thumb is one at each end, and then every other stud. <S> Every other stud may be overkill, but it's easier to overdue it a little than under do it and have to repair the job later. <S> Structural fasteners around the top and bottom plates tends to be done as close to a stud as possible, to leave lots of room for utilities that are being drilled through. <S> You won't have this on your concrete floor, but it doesn't hurt to stay close to the stud (but not so close that you can't fit your drill in).
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So as far as "long lasting stability" three tapcons per 8 foot length is probably still overkill.
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Does a fluorescent lamp that does not light up still draw power? First of all, I am not a native English speaker, please forgive me. I recently rented the room I am currently living in. On the ceiling there are fluorescent fixtures like the picture below (I found this image on the Internet, but looks very similar to mine). When I first came, two lamps would light up when I turned the light switch on. (I just found that it had 3 lamps moments ago. So, there had been one lamp that did not light up all along.) But, two were too bright for me. I had been thinking about opening the cover and taking one out (leaving only one) but I was just too lazy. Yesterday, suddenly one of them would no longer light. So currently only one lamp (out of three) is on. The brightness of one lamp is fine for me, but I wonder if the two non-functioning lamps are still drawing power? Is it OK to leave the non-functioning lamps there? As I said earlier, I rented this room and I will leave here in 9 months. So if there are no downsides other than they do not light up, I do not want to take the hard work of removing/attaching the cover and taking them off. <Q> You can remove the lamps that are not working. <S> This will only let the one good light to work. <S> Perhaps one light was faulty already before you moved in and the other was ready to go bad. <S> So you will have an idea what the condition of the lamps are, and using the picture you offered, these type of lamps when they are going bad or have gone bad, get dark spots on the ends close to where they connect to the fixture. <S> The darkening occurs in the glass, not the porcelain. <S> Take for example the last lamp on the right, where it connects has some darkening at the base, where the other 2 lamps do not. <S> The lamp on the right will not work anymore in time, or perhaps is already not lighting up (glowing). <S> These words are interchangeable here. <S> If your lamps in the fixture of your room have dark spots at the base, close to the end or ends that plug into the fixture, then it is most likely that the lamps are bad. <S> It does not hurt to leave them in that <S> I know of, they may still draw some power. <S> If you prefer not to have the room heavily lit, you will do fine by removing them temporarily and replace them in 9 months before you leave the rental, or replace them with new lamps if you wish, as a good gesture towards your landlord. <A> No, unlike LEDs, the fluorescent bulb itself (or rather the tube) can not use power when it burns out, however, the ballasts may use a trace of energy whether or not there is a bulb installed. <S> Simply removing the bulbs should have no effect <S> so there really are no downsides or problems with just leaving your bulbs the way it is unless you end up needing more light or as Jack said, if you would like to do your landlord a favor. <S> I hope this helps! <A> The ballasts ARE taking a small amount of power, to try to ignite the bulbs, which isn't working because (I guess) <S> the bulbs are at end-of-life. <S> Keep this in mind: good chance all 3 bulbs were replaced at the same time, meaning the third is also near its end-of-life and could blow at any time. <S> Most likely it will fail to start when you turn it on. <S> Plan accordingly. <S> I have a rule: if you have a problem, then most likely, the guy ahead of you also had that problem, and tried to fix it. <S> You say you have way too much light in the room. <S> What I see is 2 ballasts. <S> One drives one lamp. <S> The other drives 2 lamps. <S> My guess is they are (or were intended to be) on 2 separate switches, so a person could select either 1 or 3 bulbs on. <S> Look carefully at the layout of the fixture to see what I mean. <S> I wonder where such a switch might be? <A> From the looks of your fixture, I am almost 100% certain the ballasts are electronic. <S> These newer types of ballasts can detect bad fluorescent bulbs, and will automatically stop trying to ignite the bulb, thus, not wasting energy. <S> Older ballasts would continue to try to ignite the bulb. <S> There is no harm in leaving the bad bulbs in place.
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It will use less power and will be of no concern, I believe you operate it with only one lamp.
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Difference between blue and grey blue coaxial ports I have blue coaxial ports in almost every room in my house. What the heck are they for? Are these regular cable jacks? Maybe I am confused since cat5e jacks are also blue colored? To add to the confusion, some of the cable jacks in my house are grey, not blue. <Q> There's no difference between the colors. <S> In locations with lots of different AV sources, different colored connectors are used to differentiate between sources. <S> So there may indeed be a difference in quality, and/or construction. <S> F connectors (and coaxial cable ) are commonly used to transmit cable, satellite, and broadcast television signals. <A> I couldn't help but read this and not let you all know what the difference is. <S> I installed cable for years. <S> White ports support a maximum of 1GHz signal pass-through, white blue ones support a maximum of 3GHz signal pass-through. <A> The blue is just the connector. <S> The dish network guy who wired my house a couple of years ago used a blue connector, a green, and two grays... <S> They are all channeled to the same connection and the colors mean nothing unless there is some secret masonic code that I am missing. <S> Your cat5e <S> I am sure is in the light blue because it is a popular color for consumers and one of two colors (other is yellow) <S> that is kept in stock at most stores in large strands. <A> The blue and orange RG-6 barrel connectors in the wall plates are swept tested to 3GHz where some of the other (clear, white, etc.) <S> that come with most wall plates you see on the walls are not tested above 750 MHz and will not be guaranteed to pass signals used by satellite providers, or MoCA devices. <A> There is no color code for telephone and video jacks.
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It looks like your house is wired for cable or dish. The connectors in your home may have come from different manufacturers, or different times in history. This, however, has nothing to do with the color of the connector. I'm guessing one installer had a pouch full of blue connectors, and another installer had gray. The one in your photo looks like a video jack for cable television.
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How to calculate cutting angle for a circle of tiles? I'm looking to calculate the angle I need to cut on square tiles that will be arranged around the edge of a circular pool. Given that radius is 7' and that tile width is 12", how many tiles are needed to close the full circle, when distance between each tile is 1/4". At what angle does each tile need to be cut on both sides, so that when laid in a circle, sides of the tiles are parallel to each other? Can somebody point me in how to calculate this? <Q> Assuming you are just going to tile a simple circle with a radius of 7', the calculation is easy to estimate number of tiles. <S> πR2 = <S> Area <S> I'm going to use inches here: <S> Radius is 84" = surface area of 22,156" squared. <S> It wouldn't be out of the question to calculate the number of tiles out of this, and add in a percentage for breakage/cuts. <S> based on a 12" tile and 1/4" grout, I'd guess 150 tiles + 20% breakage/waste, or 177 tiles. <S> The next part gets more complicated. <S> What I believe you're suggesting is cutting trapezoidal sections of tile, and arrange them in concentric rings. <S> If you want to maximize the tile size, the pitch will be the same, but will not have the same layout on each and every tile. <S> For each consecutive ring of tiles form the center, they will become more oblique and large. <S> I suggest doing an accurate scaled drawing in the spirit of what I threw together. <S> Using autocad or sketchup would be highly advisable to make a 2D drawing. <S> This is really the easiest way in my mind. <S> Then you can have a firm plan of cuts, measurable angles, as well as a count of tiles. <S> Keep in mind, this is just about layout and measurements. <S> I have NO idea of the tiles cut like this will be stable or if it will be easy to install. <S> Good luck <S> and let us know how it goes! <A> For your circle & tiles: 12-1/4 inches if you leave the tile full-width at the outside edge - tile plus grout. <S> 2 pi R is circumference - 43.923 feet. <S> 527.79 inches. <S> Divide by 12.25 to get number of tiles. <S> 43.084 - depending on the project, you either figure 43 is <S> close enough (0.27 inch grout line rather than 0.25) or you use 44 tiles and trim more off them (not full width at edge - 11.745" at outer edge.) <S> 360 degrees in a circle divided by number of tiles = <S> the angle of cut 360 degrees divided by 43 = 8.37 degrees per tile, to make symmetric, cut 4.185 degrees on each side. <S> For 44 tiles, 8.18, 4.09. <S> To get fussy (the 43/44 may be near enough to make it matter) <S> you could check with the fact that the edge of the tile is not really "the circumference of the circle" but a chord making up a polygon inscribed in the circle. <S> Chord length = 2 <S> * r <S> * sin (c/2) where c is the "central angle" - <S> so c/2 is 4.185 or 4.09 degrees for 43 or 44 tiles, respectively. <S> Looks like it might make it 0.26 rather than 0.27 inch grout line for 43. <S> In real life, start from opposite sides and work to the point where you have one tile left on each side - check the fit of that as constructed and trim to fit as needed, since getting grout lines precisely repeatable to the 100th of an inch is unlikely in practice. <A> I accepted answer but wanted to provide my line of thinking also, and some facts that were missing in initial question, and that is that length of the tile is 18" and that there will be a 1" overhand over the circle. <S> Here is how I calculated it: Circumference of the circle is 43.98, let's round it up to 44. <S> Since I want the tiles at the end not to be cut, and there will be overhand of 1", outer circle radius is 84 + 17 = 101. <S> So outer circle circumference is 52.88', lets round it up to 53'. <S> So basically inner circle is 9 feet shorter then outer one. <S> Inner circle due to gap of 1/4" between tiles can hold only 43 tiles. <S> So from these 43 tiles I have to take away 9'. <S> 9x12 = <S> 108/43 <S> = 2.51. <S> So from each tile I have to take away 2.5 inches, <S> so on each side that is 1.25". <S> Now if we apply trigonometry, since we know all the pieces we can calculate the angle of the cut. <S> Based on opposite and adjacent side length, angle on the top of the tile is 3.97 degrees. <S> I think that is pretty close to what others came up with. <S> It is not absolutely necessary that it fits exactly as the circle will not be closed, only half circle will be created. <S> This is for the pool coping.
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Take your time, measure twice, cut once and when in doubt, step away and ask yourself "Is this work going to be worth the outcome".
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Should drywall used on a ceiling be of a different weight/grade than drywall used on walls? Should drywall used in a ceiling be of a different weight/grade than drywall used in walls? We are demoing a closet this weekend, and will need to repair the remaining drywall in a few places. <Q> Depends on the ceiling/wall function. <S> If the wall/ceiling is a firewall, you normally need to replace the structure that was there, which may be double-layer 5/8 type <S> X ("firecode") gypsum. <S> I prefer it for ceiling applications anyway (single layer where double-layer is not needed), as it's far less prone to sag than the thinner grades. <S> It's also heavier, which you may not be fond of - and it is sometimes used on "acoustic" walls for that reason. <S> I've dealt with old walls that use as little as 1/4" drywall. <S> 1/2" is what's normal/standard in new construction - 1/4 and 3/8 may be available from a supplier <S> but I would only use those for repairs of a wall starting with that thickness where replacing the whole wall doesn't make more sense. <A> If they are they must be 5/8 inch type X. <S> If not I would suggest one of the two: 1/2" gypsum ceiling board - ceiling board is simply drywall rated to have less sag and less pulling properties. <S> This is normally what we use on jobs. <S> It is not always available at big box in all lengths but we usually find it. <S> And then you can always order it and they will deliver. <S> See <S> this PDF to compare ceiling board to regular wall board. <S> 1/2" lightweight wallboard . <S> This is your stock lightweight drywall. <S> Given its light weight it will have less sag and pop out issues. <S> I would never use anything less than a half inch. <S> It just bends too much. <S> Given that there is more flex during your install could cause issues down the road at the seams. <A> My home has a mix of 1/2 and 5/8 drywall on the ceiling and it is completely related to the spacing of the ceiling joists. <S> If they are 16 on center, the builder used 1/2. <S> If they are wider than 16, then they used 5/8. <S> The 5/8 will prevent sagging between wider ceiling joists. <A> If one can afford, I would recommend go for the best - protection, performance and build quality of your home. <S> Using a 5/8" drywall makes sense in so many ways, so go with the best available, after all you don't rip drywall now and then. <S> Once installed, follow the manufacturer's guidelines as to how it needs to be finished if you want that excellence in paint finish etc. <S> Thank you
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In most cases for repairs you want to replicate what was there, unless you are ripping the entire wall/ceiling or it's too hard to track down matching replacement drywall. First you need to figure out if the ceilings are considered a firewall. If it was my own home, where I wish to live for a long time, I would get it built with the finest material.
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Easy way to temporarily insulate gap between hardwood floor and baseboard? Odors are entering my apartment from a neighboring unit, and it appears to be getting in via a draft between the baseboard and hardwood floor in my apartment. The draft appears to be localized to a small area in my living room. I'd like to put something in between the baseboard and the floor to insulate the gap. Is there anything I can use that will provide good insulation but be easy to remove without damaging the baseboard or floor? The gap is about 1/8". Also, if I did talk to my landlord about permanently filling the gap, what is the recommended way to do this with hardwood floors? <Q> You could use "seal and peel" type removable weatherstripping caulk. <A> There is a polyurethane foam <S> rope-like insulation used to fill gaps before adding caulk <S> This comes in various sizes from 3/8" to 5"8. <S> It can be compressed to about 1/4 of its diameter. <S> It also should be removable, if need be. <S> Images and links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources. <A> If you have a concern about potential damage I would use "Moretite". <S> It is a clay like material. <S> It comes in a roll of various diameters. <S> It is inexpensive and somewhat reusable. <S> You can wrap several pieces together for larger gaps. <S> I have never had issues with paint damage or residue after removal
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Some type of caulk would probably be the permanent solution as well.
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What kind of screws are used for plywood subflooring? I have removed the old bathroom lino and cleaned the parts that adhered to the floor. I want to screw down the existing plywood subfloor because the nails are old (45yrs) and sparse. What kind of screws should I use and how close together should they be? <Q> It should be noted that the above linked screw is a sheetrock screw, not a subfloor or underlayment screw, which you will probably find in real life labeled something like "deck screw" if you're working on the cheap. <S> Sheetrock screws are brittle and prone to breaking under the flexing/shifting of a floor. <S> DO NOT USE sheetrock screws. <S> My apologies to the OP for not viewing this page 18 months earlier. <S> If you're installing tile, or doing anything involving concrete (like self leveler), you'll want to look into screws that are alkali resistant. <S> The cement board that you'll grout to the latex primered (better bonding, moisture barrier) subfloor will also be attached with these screws, and the fiberglass tape you'll use to "mud" the seams between the cement board (just like installing drywall) will also be of an alkali resistant variety. <S> In both cases of subflooring and cement board, leave a 1/16" gap between sheets for building shift/expansion. <S> This will help the floor float during the inevitable expansion and contraction of temperature and humidity swings. <A> The type of screw I recommend is one where the thread ends before the head about the thickness of the subfloor. <S> This increases the pull of the screw head on the sheet downwards onto the joists. <S> This also allows you to use a battery operated drill/driver without the screw thread shredding your finger tips. <S> Also use PAZ screws (passivated). <S> As mentioned previously use course thread. <A> Depends on how thick the underlayment is. <S> So if you underlayment is 5/8" or 3/4" <S> thick you can use 1 5/8" coarse thread screws . <S> You could use the same screws for thinner underlayment, but the risk of hitting something unseen below the floor grows. <S> The typical screw spacing for underlayment <S> , NOT sheathing is 4", +/- <S> on the edges and 6", +/- <S> in BOTH directions in the middle. <S> It sounds a little overkill for thicker underlayment material, but for the thinner stuff, say 1/4" thick, it is needed.
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Use a cable/pipe detector to precisely mark your subfloor for screw placement if you aren't lifting the existing floor. One final note, if you're adding plywood subflooring over an existing subfloor, screw the original sub to the joists anywhere it's loose, and screw the new sub to the old sub but NOT to the joists. If you can in time find out, the rule of thumb is a minimum of 1" embedment into the lower substrate.
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How should I fill the holes in my floor to prevent mice from getting in? I live an old apartment building and discovered a month into my lease that my apartment has a mouse problem. No matter how may times I bait or trap, I have no luck. It it appears that this might be because the mice live under the floorboards and between apartments, darting in and out of holes in my hardwood floor around every radiator, the cabinet beside my gas stove, and the toilet. If I make it bad for them, cleaning and putting out traps, they just leave, only to come back once I get lazy or leave anything out they might eat or hide inside. The holes themselves are decent sized, around an inch on the radiator and 2-4 inches on the toilet and cabinet. Shining a flash-light into them lets me see down into the floorboards and it looks like they might all be connected, at least to the mice. Management doesn't care, I can't just move, and I'm done almost stepping on mice when I finish my morning shower. Is expanding foam my best bet here? Are there any other options? <Q> You may want to either incorporate a heavy gauge metal mesh wire , neatly cut around or into the place the mice go through. <S> You might could even "bed" the wire mesh in the foam as it is expanding to lock in place that way. <S> This will not look nice in any sense of the word on the larger holes but it will certainly slow them down for a while. <S> Otherwise a cat, as mentioned in the comments section, will also take care of the problem. <S> Thin sheet metal screwed in place will work as well without the foam too. <S> You could try nailing it down, but in the cabinet it will bounce a bunch, screws are better here. <A> Mice can fit in holes the diameter of a US dime, and through cracks down to 1/4" <A> Steel wool in any openings will completely prevent them from entering. <S> Works like a charm!
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Expanding foam can get messy but it may be your best bet, if you can keep it in place and they do not chew through it. From the pest control guy when there was a mouse problem: Bunch/roll up coarse steel wool (thicker strands than a Brillo metal scrubbing pad) and stuff it in the hole tightly. Doing this will make a potentially messy task and make it even messier.
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Muffling a fire alarm speaker? First off, this may or may not be legal, but seeing as this is in my own place of residence and it's bothering me a lot, I figured I'd ask. I live in an apartment complex near my college. I have 2 smoke detectors in the living room/kitchen area and 1 in each of the 3 bedrooms. In addition, there is a Simplex TrueAlert horn/strobe device on the living room wall. It is one of the loudest alarms I have ever heard, and it is completely unnecessary considering the smoke detectors are plenty loud on their own. I have bad anxiety when it comes to anticipation of loud, unexpected noises and it's at the point where I'm not completely relaxed when I'm sitting in my own apartment living room anymore, because it could go off literally any time and the noise is god awful. here's a picture of the alarm on the wall for reference: Anyways I was wondering if there's anything I can put over the speaker grille to muffle the noise a little bit. My living room is pretty small so the noise has nowhere to go and is awfully loud. <Q> No. <S> Your safety is worth more than you feeling anxiety. <S> You have smoke alarms for your apartment <S> but this one looks like it is hooked up to the building. <S> Meaning <S> if there were a fire somewhere else in the building you would be notified via this alarm. <S> You may think that this alarm is extremely loud if you are standing next to it but <S> what if you are in the shower with a radio on? <S> In college I had a similar alarm and showered right through a drill and had no idea. <S> Also these alarms should go off <S> maybe a couple of times a year <S> so your anxiety should be only messed with for a few minutes a year at most. <S> If this doesn't convince you, then maybe saying that tampering with fire alarms is illegal and could be grounds to have you evicted. <A> I am a NICET Level IV Fire Alarm System & Life Safety Professional. <S> The horn/strobe in the living room to alert you when another section of the building outside of your apartment is on fire. !!!! <S> NFPA 72 Fire Alarm Code states that the horn should be 15 db above the ambient sound level of the space. <S> The horn strobes come out of the box set to HIGH. <S> It can legally be set to LOW by the fire alarm service company. <S> Removing the horn/strobe may cause a supervisory alarm on the fire alarm system. <S> Many horn/strobes are connected to the same circuit. <S> If its already on LOW then be thankful there are codes and technicians trying to save your life. <S> If you can't deal with the potential loud life saving noise, then move to a low rise building with exterior entrances to units that doesn't require the same level of life safety systems. <S> Don't be the selfish person that tampered with a fire alarm system that 1. made the building less safe for other people living there 2. <S> caused an expensive nuisance service issue for building management and the service company. <A> I know this is really old. <S> But I'm in an apartment with TWO of these alarms. <S> One bedroom, one living room. <S> It's unbearable. <S> And there's the same alarms in the hallways and fire stairs. <S> There's no way to miss any of them. <S> There's trying to lower the volume so your ears aren't bleeding <S> and there's tampering. <S> Tampering imho would be doing something bad! <S> like getting the cover off and messing with the works. <S> Don't do that. <S> Covering the speaker box to just muffle it a bit? <S> I don't see that as tampering, I see it as trying to keep sanity, at least some. <S> I've put foam board over the speakers in mine with duct tape. <S> Easily removed, tape is not on the actual speakers, can definitely still hear them <S> but my ptsd isn't set off quite as bad or as long with just quieting them down a bit. <A> The OP mentioned that there are smoke detectors tied to the system in both the living room and bedrooms, which will all sound at once if the building alarm is activated. <S> I know what types of sounders they are, and I can say that they would definitely be loud enough on their own to wake anyone up. <S> - it's not like it would be rendered completely inaudible anyhow. <S> I suppose it might technically be illegal, but are the powers that be really going to be so heartless as to fine or arrest you over this? <S> At the most you could get a warning, and you could always try to appeal based on your condition. <A> Remember, the whole purpose of this alarm is to be heard through closed doors, earplugs, and sleeping pills, and to actively drive people out of the building before they are trapped by the fire and killed. <S> It is supposed to be too painful to ignore. <S> Let it do its job.
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If you tamper with the device in your apartment, you could unknowingly open the circuit and render the remaining downstream horn/strobes useless and endangering the lives of your neighbors. So I honestly can't see what great harm it would do muffle the horn with some duct tape or something It is unlawful to taper with a life safety system! Ask the building management team to have it set to LOW.
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I need to make a swinging cat-door in a piece of furniture but I can't figure out how to hinge it I'm trying to convert a cabinet into cat litter storage. I've cut a piece out of the side of the cabinet and want to re-attach it as a top-mounted swinging door for the cat to get in and out. Unfortunately the wood is an inch thick so if I hinge it on one side (i.e the inside or the outside), it doesn't have enough clearance to swing the other way. I'm trying to figure out a way to "hinge" or attach the door in the center of the opening thickness (as opposed to a hinge on either the inside or the outside) so as to cut the clearance requirement in half. Any ideas? <Q> If there is such a hinge it would leave a big gap and the door might be too heavy for your cat to comfortably go through it. <S> I looked into this myself and decided it would be best to just use a cat flap like this one. <S> http://store.petsafe.net/2-way-locking-cat-door <S> Alternately you can do something similar like round over the top of your wood and use 2 metal pins on the side <S> but you still have the weight issue. <S> Not sure if they make spring pins big enough but that would make it easy to mount like a toilet paper roll. <S> Update: <S> I had a little time today to draw out what I was talking about with the rounded over top... <S> Top needs to be rounded over. <S> Radius should be 1/2 the width of the stock and rounded over on both sides to make a half circle top. <S> Drill holes and insert metal pins. <S> The metal shelf pins should work. <S> Insert the door in the slots you routed out for the pins and cover with a small metal bracket attached with screws or something like that to prevent the pins from coming out. <A> Swinging inch thick wood is liable to trap cat tails. <S> The cat will not enjoy having its tail pinched. <S> I use multiple layers of cloth, say 3 for an inch thick gap, for an effective, cat friendly airlock. <S> Tack or staple in place. <S> Oh yes, you can weight the bottom of the cloth so as to ensure it always hangs properly. <A> I would suggest that to make it hinge in a workable manner whilst at the same time not detract from the looks on the outside of the cabinet that you cut the wood like this.(This is an on edge view)
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Couldn't find spring pins big enough to handle this so just routing out a channel to accept the pins then covering with a straight metal bracket or strip of wood might be the only option. I still think the cat flap is the best option but if you want to give this a go...
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How long and how often should I water my concrete? I have just applied cement on some stone joints, and I was wondering for how long should I pour water on it? How frequently should I apply water? Is it twice a day, or thrice a day? I really need to avoid cracks and weak joints. <Q> Best is to keep it damp "forever." <S> Design strength for most concrete is based on 28 days at 21C/70F. <S> The early part of the cure is the most critical. <S> Time is doubled at 50F/10C and reduced at higher temperatures - so long as it's kept damp. <S> Covering with damp cloths/ <S> burlap/ <S> sacking and then covering that with plastic can help to keep it damp longer (from a single application of water.) <S> Just covering with plastic helps some. <S> How frequently you need to apply water will vary with climate and how much you have done to keep the water in place. <A> Procedure which Ecnerwalhas explained is "by the book" and I agree 100% if we would be speaking about concrete slab, wall etc. <S> But since you are just using cement for joints in a stone wall <S> no need to pure water over it. <S> In fact, you could cause damage if you would pour water because there is a chance that cement would wash of. <S> My advice would be just to use "heavy duty" cement plaster for this <A> After pouring the concrete slab, we will keep the water in concrete for 48 hours. <S> We continue watering the slab for at least 5 days.
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After 48 hours we must start watering the concrete to maintain it, because the chemical actions still need watering.
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Can I install insulation on the ceiling of an old unfinished basement? Can I install insulation on the ceiling of an old unfinished basement? I have a bungalow home with hardwood floors. <Q> Actually adding insulation is both beneficial for sound reduction and heat retention. <S> When you insulate your floors you prevent heat loss from your basement, especially if you live in Northern States where it gets cold like me. <S> This also helps keep rooms at even temperatures which makes your HVAC system operate more efficiently. <S> Also, if you're outside walls in your basement are not insulated <S> then I wouldn't install it in the floor. <S> As it would be more beneficial to get those outside walls done first then insulate the floor. <S> You'd be well on your way to a finished basement as well. <S> Python is right about doing it completely or not at all. <S> Hope this helps! <A> Yes. <S> If you're using bats with a vapor barrier put the vapor barrier side against the wood floor. <A> When I started working chief engineer on one site told me something that describes this situation the best: "When you are cold do you eat your coat or do you wear it?” <S> To put it differently every type of insulation, thermal included should be placed on the outer side of the building. <S> From how you described I realized that you are planning to do it from the inside. <S> Or did I have it wrong? <S> Anyway, you can isolate basement, best to use Styrofoam or something like that, but it is highly recommended that you do it from the outside, which in a case of basement, sadly can be a problem, since most of it is under ground. <S> EDIT: <S> Plus I forgot to mention that partial installing insolation partially (just ceiling or one wall etc.) <S> doesn’t make much sense, and could cause even more problems.
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Even if the basement is conditioned another benefit of insulation is to reduce noise transmission from any appliances (like air handlers) that may be running down there. If you want to do it you should do it completely.
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Is this wall load bearing based on the attached blueprints? I would like to remove a wall in my walk-out basement but I don't know how to interpret this architectural blueprint. Based on this blueprint, is the wall bearing load or not? I have highlighted the wall in question in the pictures below. Click for larger view Click for larger view <Q> EDIT: <S> On second look, the drawing actually tells us. <S> There's a note box to the right: <S> TYP BEARING WALL 2x4 stud 16" O.C. on Continuous footing. <S> The dashed line around the wall indicates the footing. <S> ORIGINAL: <S> For the sake of this discussion, north is the top of the drawing. <S> There appears to be a beam running E-W from the post to the East wall. <S> There are no notes on the west wall talking about a beam pocket. <S> So the beam does not extend westward towards the area you want to deal with. <S> This makes the total span in the area you're looking at 36 feet. <S> Far too long for 2 x 12's,which means the wall you want to remove is definitely supporting the joists. <S> Even if the beam does continue, I would take great care. <S> 20 feet is about the max for a joist span. <S> This involves building temporary stud walls on either side of the existing wall to support the load while you're working. <S> You'll need to find a contractor who has done this type of work before. <A> According to the response from Shannon @ house-improvements.com <S> (he's the pro who owns the site): <S> Yes that is for sure <S> [the wall is load bearing]. <S> there is a note about a header in that door opening . <S> the span of those joists over to the main beam is to long to be supported by the size of joists indicated with out some support along the way. <S> There are some options for you though: <S> That wall looks to be approx 20' long <S> It is possible that a steel beam could possibly be designed to carry that load but more than likely you would need a post in the middle as well. . <S> You could open just a portion of that wall and use a wood or steel beam that can span the chosen distance. <S> Either way you should consult a pro because this is load bearing. <S> And this will require a permit. <S> Thank you everyone for your comments and answers, it is much appreciated! <A> Everything Chris said is true... <S> but I’m not sure if the note box gives us information about mentioned wall or different one. <S> It't hard to tell from the drawing, at least for me... <S> I don't know the standards in your country, and if house is built according to regulations, but bearing walls should be either vertical or horizontal <S> (I mean one or another direction on the drawing) <S> so maybe you can compare these two "types" and see which is bearing. <S> Also,keep in mind that maybe it is not the wall which is bearing weight, but only his upper part, beam and the rest of the wall isn't load bearing. <S> I would like to provide you with more helpful information but just from the drawing I can't.
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This leads me to believe that the dark line following the same path as the beam is simply a dimension line, not a continuation of the beam. The solution is probably to dig a footer where the doorway is now, and put up a steel post and raise another short steel or paralam beam where the wall is. If I'm reading the drawing correctly, IT DEFINITELY IS . This job calls for a professional engineer to assess the situation. Three things tell me that: there is a concrete footing (dotted lines) under that wall.
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What can I use to hang up grocery bags? I'd like a good solution for hanging up grocery bags and other miscellaneous things on the wall. Basic hooks would do the trick, but some things like to slip off it (like too many grocery bags). To combat this travesty, I thought to have a carabiner attached to a wall, so it seems my options are: http://www.woss.com/oblong-stainless-steel-eye-pad-600lbs-working-weight/ http://www.berkeleypoint.com/products/hardware/S0230-0000.html Remaining questions: Does it have another name that I don't know of? Do you guys think the carabiner solution is a decent one as well? <Q> There are millions of available types of coat hooks, most of which will look a lot nicer than the carabiners you proposed. <S> The trouble with both of your suggestions is that they require two hands to get things off... <S> one hand to unclip them and the other hand to remove the object. <S> As such they will eventually drive you crazy. <A> What you have suggested are great ideas, but perhaps a bit overkill (unless you intend to hang full reusable grocery bags, gallon of milk included). <S> The best solution I've come across in similar storage searches, is to create a decorative, but sturdy rail, mounted on your wall. <S> They make similar systems for garages that are effectively modular, and typically an engineered metal solution. <S> A nice 1"x3" of finish grade, poplar or similar (with or without trim, paint, etc) Could be attached with appropriate hardware to the studs of your wall, similar to how people might mount a chair rail. <S> Then, any number of hooks, loops, carabiners, etc. could be easily attached to this sturdy, yet decorative runner. <S> Otherwise, unless you only mount on studs, you'll find drywall anchors will work out as drywall has a poor working performance. <S> Depending on the statement you're looking to make, and the location of your project, I might suggest a board with several light duty recessed pan fitting rings. <S> These will certainly be cheaper than what you had suggested. <S> These could be neat in a storage area. <S> Look HERE on Amazon. <S> Now, specifically for storing empty grocery bags (reusable or otherwise), the best solution I've ever seen is a "grocery bag sock" or "stocking". <S> It acts as both storage and a dispenser. <S> That is personally how I manage a myriad of reusable grocery bags at my home. <S> Good luck <S> and let us know how it turns out! <A> I really like your ideas but can also understand the previous suggestion of having something that you can use with one hand. <S> I had a couple of ideas. <S> One is to use large hooks intended for bicycles or tools. <S> Here's one example (below in red) but they make different sizes and shapes.
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Another smaller makeshift solution would be to get one of type pictured below and mount it on its side, using screws through the short protrusion into the wall so that the large protrusion acts as the upward-facing hook.
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Can I use metal masonry device (switch) boxes in a stud wall? I am installing new wiring and need to place 5 lighting switches in one location (yes, I understand the problems/issues of confusion, etc.). These will all be 3-way switches, non-dimmable. I plan on using 2 dual 3-ways (two 3-way switches on a single strap that fit in a one gang box) and one regular 3-way. The switches are UL listed and rated for the load. I would prefer to use a 3 gang box. My concern is box fill. Each 3-way has 3 wires (not including the ground): two travelers and one common for each circuit. That means 15 wires for switching, plus at least one white out for each circuit (5), one white in and one ground (2). Each single gang switch is treated as two conductors (6 more). That is 28. Assume all conductors are 14 gauge and connectors are external. The code requires 2 inches per conductor. That adds up to 56 cubic inches. The largest standard 3 gang box I can find is 54 cubic inches. But there are metal masonry boxes that range in the 60s. Is there any reason I shouldn't use one of those (recognizing that I need to properly secure it to the non-masonry studs wherein it will sit)? <Q> Masonry boxes are metal because concrete can get wet and conduct electricity. <S> The box can be grounded to prevent this becoming a problem. <S> Code allows you to use items that are MORE safe than is required. <S> For instance, if code requires 14 gage wire, you're OK using 12 gage (but not 16). <S> The same holds here. <S> As long as it physically fits, you will be OK. <A> There is no problem using the metal boxes, it is done all the time. <S> I will Never be caught saying this it the best idea - 3 gang plastic 1.5" extender, UPC 018997489678 <S> 3 gang mud ring for the metal box http://www.homedepot.com/p/Raco-3-Gang-Raised-3-4-in-Mud-Ring-For-RACO-942-and-952-Gang-Box-822/100539345 <A> This will work as long as you can mount the box securely, and are not violating the box's listing. <S> As Some Guy pointed out, the whole lot of EGCs (ground wires) only counts as 1 wire for box fill purposes. <S> And yes, an extension ring on a stud-type (old work or new work) box can work as well, if you don't mind the resulting box sticking out from the wall.
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You're proposing using a more safe box than is required. All of the ground wires count as only 1 wire for box fill calculations
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How can I determine what the minimum working pressure is for a gas range? I have recently purchased a range top, converted it to propane and am planning to use it with a 5 gallon propane tank. When I connected it to my tank, I got a second worth of gas flow and then it stopped. After my plumber troubleshooted with the manufacture for a while, it turns out that new ranges seem to have a minimum working pressure in order to operate. How is this minimum pressure feature called- so I can look for a different range that doesn't have it? <Q> You may not be able to use a 5 gallon (20 lb?) <S> tank as the supply for a range top - effective propane delivery depends on having adequate tank to boil off the required supply of gas - depending on how much the range uses and the temperature, a 5 gallon tank may "freeze up" (really, self-cool) to the point where it does not provide the gas required - a 100-200lb tank is certainly much more standard as the supply for a propane range. <S> LP stands for Liquified Propane - it has the useful feature for storage and transport of becoming a liquid at relatively low pressures. <S> when you draw gas from the tank, the liquid boils - as it boils, it cools the tank. <S> If the tank is already cold (question is from February) and the gas use rate is high, the pressure in the tank falls to 0 at roughly -40 (F or C) <S> A larger tank has more area to collect heat from so it cools more slowly for the same rate of gas use. <S> Using the correct regulator (for delivery pressure with adequate tank pressure driving it) is also required... <S> This previous answer may also shed more light on the subject. <S> If my regular propane tank for the house runs out, can I use a BBQ tank as a temporary fix? <A> All gas appliances have a minimum requirement, and while it will vary between units, its not something that only applies to new ranges. <A> One thing that you may need to take care of is the conversion of the gas orifices. <S> If the range top that you purchased was setup for natural gas usage you would have to change the orifices for propane usage.
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The specs for the range will list the minimum pressure required, likely with verbiage along the lines of "Minimum Xinch water column" or "Minimum X psi".
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p and s trap plumbing help We installed new counters and along with it a new sink. The location of the drain on new sink is lower and much to the left of the old one. After rotating the trap, its still off from the drain by about an 1. But there isn't enough vertical room to make the necessary jogs. So my question is, would it hurt to add a s trap right out of the sink drain only to jog the h2o to the location of the orginal trap? Would it still drain correctly? Would the lower trap still work correctly? See the attached sketch. Thanks, <Q> I don't believe you're allowed to have two traps on the same drain line at all, and you certainly don't want two in a row. <S> You will surely get weird syphoning and gurgling problems. <S> Just replumb the new sink so that the drain goes straight down and joins the old sink's drain before the P trap. <A> If these sinks are close enough to share a trap arm, then I see two options. <S> Down and over Over and down <A> S-traps are not typically allowed. <S> The reason is that an S-trap, by design, tends to siphon the trap. <S> To make an S-trap into a P-trap the horizontal run after the first trap has to be significantly longer. <S> I'm not a plumber, but I believe because both your sinks drain into the same line that DOES have a P-trap, you might be OK with just the one P-trap <S> (Provided it's all vented properly)
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You never want to put two traps in a row, and you never want to use an S-trap.
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Should I use Kerdi membrane or cement backerboard? I have to redo my tub surround due to moisture leaks and failing grout. One of the company says they are going to apply kerdi membrane on the drywall, then tiles onto the kerdi membrane, and as such as cement backboard would not be required. Just wondering how effective is the tile on kerdi membrane vs the traditional cement backboard where tiles are glued directly to the drywall? <Q> First Kerdi can be installed on drywall or cement board. <S> However if installed on drywall it is only protecting one side. <S> The back side of the drywall fails and it is just as bad or worse than if it had an issue on the tile side. <S> All shower/tub areas should have concrete board (I prefer hardiboard). <S> Whether or not you need a Kerdi membrane is a factor of use. <S> In normal residential use I wouldn't worry about it. <S> Backerboard plus a waterproofing membrane like Redgard is all that is needed for tub surrounds with thinset then tile. <S> Kerdi really offers very little advantage over hardiboard plus membrane. <A> As a contractor, I have been using Kerdi since it came out. <S> I always install it over cement board or backerboard, never over drywall, even blueboard or the mold resistant greenboard. <S> Redgard is a similar product. <S> If done according to manufacturers instructions, it will seal nicely. <S> Important to overlap seams in a shingle method. <S> I've never had a failure. <S> Even the tiling subs have moved away from mortar walls because of the labor cost and lack of craftsmen in the industry. <A> There's a really great manual (with diagrams) that makes this all easier to understand. <S> The waterproof membrane isn't a substitute for the substrate. <S> It is a topical waterproofing layer that is put over the substrate to keep water from getting to the wood frame and nails. <S> My understanding is that Schluter-Kerdi, being a sheet topical membrane, recommends just going with regular drywall instead of cement board <S> but you can certainly use cement board as the substrate. <S> It doesn't matter <S> but you absolutely need to use both a substrate and a waterproofing membrane. <S> The site is called floorelf.com. <S> The manual can be found here: http://floorelf.com/waterproof <S> I would say unless you are experienced in working with Schluter-Kerdi waterproofing membrane kit, then I would say work with an easier waterproofing approach, either liquid waterproofing or a combination of liquid and traditional waterproofing (plastic covering the wood frame). <S> Here is a video off the Schluter-Kerdi website that describes how to apply the waterproof membrane on top of the substrate (gypsum board in this case): http://www.schluter.com/schluter-us/en_US/Shower-System/KERDI-SHOWER-KIT/Schluter%C2%AE-KERDI-SHOWER-KIT/p/KERDI_SHOWER-KIT <A> Out of curiosity, why are any of you suggesting backerboard at all? <S> that's home depot homeowner installation method. <S> Any competent tile contractor would float the wall in mortar giving you a stronger, level, perfectly flat, and square surface to properly install tile. <S> If your going to do the job do it right, and give professional advice pls. <S> The Kerdi/Daltile TS underlayments do have some valid applications such as in steam shower installations where a bullet proof vapor barrier is required. <A> Not everyone knows how to do mud and lathe <S> it's so old school <S> plus it wears you out, ive been a setter for 27 yrs <S> and I have yet to go back to one of my showers <S> I installed using perma base or durock, with a liner, i have started using waterproofing such as redguard or aqua-defense
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You absolutely need to include some sort of substrate (cement board, green board, regular drywall) with the Schluter-Kerdi waterproofing kit.
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How do I clean marks from masking tape glue on my windows? During the Hurricane Sandy, we placed tape on our windows in case the glass would break. The problem is, after removing the tape, it left a disgusting glue mark that it became impossible to remove. It has been a few years now. I hope somebody can help me here, see the pictures: <Q> Use something like Goof Off or Goo Gone to dissolve the solvent, or something with orange oil in it, and then scrape it off. <S> You might have to repeat a couple of times. <S> BTW, taping windows provides no additional protection during a hurricane. <S> Don't bother. <A> WD-40 says it removes adhesive residue Research: http://wd40.com/uses-tips/construction/removes-adhesive-residue <A> You might have luck with a razor blade. <S> (source: homedepot.ca ) <S> This is what's commonly used by mechanics, to remove registration and inspection stickers from vehicle windshields. <S> *Warning: <A> You will probably need to use a combination of methods which were suggested by longneck and Tester101 to completely remove the residue. <S> A window scraper tool uses the type of blades in Tester's picture. <S> If you don't have Goo Gone or Goof Off around the house, isopropyl alcohol will also do the job.
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After the majority of it is scraped off, then you can use a solvent to remove the leftover residue. Using the tool will make it easier to scrape with instead of just a blade. Don't use razor blades on windows with films or special coatings.
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How can I get my entry door to stay closed? Our entry door opens and closes fine but it won't engage the latch when it's closed. It almost seems like it's too small for the frame. The wind just howls through the opening and the strike plate on the frame will develop a frost layer on it. I have to use the deadbolt to keep it closed all the time. <Q> I had a door with many of the same issues. <S> It turned out that the previous owner had done a shoddy job of door installation. <S> The first step I would recommend is to check the door to ensure that it is square. <S> IF the door was not hung correctly, it could cause many of the issues you described. <S> It may not be the door itself <S> but the door frame. <S> I ended up just replacing my door, as I wasn't very fond of the previous door anyways. <S> It was an afternoon <S> well spent. <S> My house is much better insulated, as the new door actually has a decent R factor. <A> Sometimes the problem is a misaligned strike, especially if thick weatherstripping was added since the door was installed <S> but it can happen for other reasons. <S> I've patched that on multiple doorframes... <A> Shim out the hinges and then add weatherstripping to the hinge side.
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If the door frame is out of square, you can try to adjust the reveal to remedy the situation.
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Staple through a small electrical wire, will it still work correctly? I'm running a small cable along a wooden beam, using a staple gun. I accidentally put the staple through one of the wires (the one with the black stripe). It's very small gauge wire and the hole is all the way through. More worried because it's an electrical wire from a solar panel, going to an outdoor security light. How will the hole in the wire effect current and ultimately charging of the batteries on the unit? The picture is a bit blurry but you can see the hole in the wire. Any direction is greatly appreciated. Thanks. <Q> Wrong kind of staples. <S> Eventually they might all abrade the cable, whether or not you stapled right through it and present a fire hazard. <S> Replacing the cable would be best. <S> Inspecting the damage would be good, but then you'd have a splice to deal with or have to re-insulate, both having to be waterproof. <S> Damaged insulation can be fixed, but we don't know how bad the wire got nicked (also a fire hazard). <S> Plastic Insulated Cable Staples: ( Ideal ) <A> You'll have reduced the cross-section of the conductor. <S> That will reduce the conductivity and safety of the wire. <S> You should cut out that part and reconnect the working wires again. <S> This should be inside a junction box. <A> Check to make sure. <S> Just use the appropriate splice connectors depending if it's indoor (something like Scotchlok) or outdoor. <S> Might be easier/better/cheaper in the long run to just get new wire and use the appropriate wire staples as @Mazura suggested. <S> You shouldn't be stapling wires down with regular staples like that.
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Otherwise you will need to run a new wire. Solar panel, security light and the looks of that cable... sounds like a low voltage wire. You don't need to have those splices in a box unless it's in your local code for some reason.
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How can/should I remove paint from my overhangs? Old paint is peeling off my overhangs (maybe eaves is the right term?) and I need to repaint. Big pieces of the old paint are coming off by hand, but in many patches the paint is still holding on to the wood. Should I scrape it off, remove it with some kind of chemical, or just paint over it? If I should remove it, what's the best way? I tried a hand-held metal scraper and I don't think it's a good solution for the whole house -- too much work, and I find myself gouging the wood almost as much as removing paint. <Q> you have a couple of options: 1) sand it down, depending on how sound the paint is you could just sand down and then prime again before painting, however the paint applied to these patches may come off with the underlying paint in the future 2) best option for me is get some eco paint stripper gel, paint it on the paint patches generously and then attach some cling (PVC food wrap) film secured with drawing pins. <S> The cling film will initially hold on to the gel quite well, but as the gel penetrates the paint it will fall off, hence the drawing pins. <S> Leave it 24h and it should scrape off quite readily <A> There is no need to remove all of the existing paint. <S> This is what the majority of house painters do. <S> I would recommend that you put drop cloths under you so you can catch most of the flakes. <S> They tend to make a pretty big mess. <A> I use many different methods of removal, especially when working on historical homes as I have done in the past. <S> I first start with a 5and1 as I like to begin with more conventional methods. <S> I also combine wire brushing with this method. <S> I will also use random orbital sanders, oscillator tools, and mouse sanders, depending on how particular the homeowner is about the finished look. <S> Be careful not to sell yourself short and be prepared to work diligently.
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All you have to do is scrape off the loose paint, and paint over it.
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Can I remove a furnace compartment vent that's obstructing roof repair? There are two vents going up to our roof, one is the normal vent from the furnace exhaust straight up to the roof. But right next to it there's a second vent pipe, a little larger and single wall. This second pipe starts at the top of the furnace closet, about three feet above the furnace, has no obvious function and also vents out to the roof. It is not hooked to the furnace. The roofers are not able to properly cap these two vents because they are so close together, so we would like to just get rid of that second one, but we don't know if it has some official function. Some previous owner of this 1960's California house made modifications and we just want to get it back to normal code. The furnace closet also used to have a drywall ceiling which was apparently partly ripped away, and we don't know what the code requirement is, aside from providing the proper clearance from the furnace vent to combustible materials. The furnace closet at this time is open to the attic. The odd second pipe which we want to remove seems to be part of the original house construction, judging by the way it's fitted into the ceiling drywall. Combustion supply air comes from the crawl space below which is well vented. I took a close look at a friend's house and that furnace closet has no ceiling and only the one vent that goes from the furnace to the roof. Can anybody comment on this situation and help us decide what to do here? Can we get rid of that second vent? What about the drywall ceiling above the furnace? Thanks <Q> It could be an intake. <S> Furnaces require combustion air, which can only be taken from certain sources. <S> If the furnace is in a utility closet (or surrounded by living space), the pipe could be supplying combustion air. <S> Without more detail, it's impossible to definitively answer this question. <A> It sounds like this pipe was originally an air intake, but that since it was installed, the furnace closet has been substantially altered. <S> Since you're in California and this involves combustion appliances, there's bound to be a code official involved at some point, and he'll tell you what an appropriate source of combustion air would be. <S> It's possible you'll be able to remove this original air vent if the inspector approves of the combustion air coming from somewhere else. <S> Another option is to simply shorten the vent <S> so it pulls combustion air from the attic, assuming the attic is a vented one that is effectively open to the outside. <S> That's how my own furnace closet is set up, and it's perfectly code-compliant. <S> That would allow you to remove the part of the vent that goes through the roof. <A> That pipe could also be an old sewer vent pipe that got disconnected during previous renovations but not removed. <S> It could be an air intake for the furnace too, but knowing how leaky California houses are I doubt that would be much of an issue esp. <S> if your furnace closet is open to the attic. <S> I'd have them shorten the pipe to be below roof level and beg forgiveness later if need be.
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In these parts at least, it is the norm for there to be a vent pipe for the sewer line on the roof to allow noxious gasses to escape and prevent air-locks in the sewer line. If this is the case, it cannot be removed.
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What could cause flashing LED lights when other LED lights in a different room are turned on? I have the same problem and I'm pretty certain it's NOT related to bad switches - let me explain. We have LUTRON switches through the house. All was fine. We then had a minor 2nd floor renovation creating my wife's walk-in closet. LED's were installed in the closet. In the kitchen on the 1st floor which never had any issues, we always had LED's. We started noticing the lights in the kitchen would go on/off with 1/2 second intervals - couldn't figure it out. The renovation occurred during the summer so we didn't connect the lighting issue with the renovation because, being in a northern climate, it was bright and the lights weren't needed. We then realized in the winter that whenever the lights in the walk-in came on, that's when the on/off occurred. I would add that its NOT a flicker - definite on/off; I would also note that the walk-in switch is a sensor switch. We were just living with it. Then we created a media closet - I screwed in LED bulb - then all of a sudden the LED pot lights in the adjoining hall started to do the same thing! Off/on. I switched the media closet light back to incandescent and the problem ceased. I would add that the media closet switch is also LUTRON sensor. Q: Any thoughts? We have a few sensor switches as well as regular touch switches and LED for all pot lights though some fixtures are regular halogen/incandescent. <Q> Some LEDs with switching power supplies demand power in pulses, which can get coupled back onto the power line as small surges. <S> I have a chandelier which takes 16 bulbs, which is something of a worst case since they are all trying to draw power through the same ten-foot lamp cord and am using a dimmer to control its brightness. <S> When ask the bulbs were identical, there was no problem. <S> When one failed and I replaced it with a bulb that drew a tiny bit more power, some dimmer levels would cause that new bulb to flash badly. <S> Replacing it with a bulb that drew slightly less power than the others solved the problem. <S> I have some guesses about exactly why, but they are more detailed than I think we want to into here. <S> So I'd try making sure all the bulbs are identical and see if that helps. <S> Some folks have reported that replacing one of the bulbs with an incandescent or fluorescent may also solve the problem, since these draw power differently. <S> Again, I have some guesses about why, but they are mostly guesses. <S> Might be worth trying an experiment, though. <S> We're playing with a product that's still in the early stages of its evolution. <S> There are likely to be a few hiccups before the manufacturers learn how to make them "as cheap as possible, but not cheaper. <S> " I am trusting/hoping that those companies are aware of this effect and will solve it eventually. <S> Unfortunately, given the long life of LED bulbs, that may not help us early purchasers very soon. <A> Mine flicker when they are on depending on the dimmer setting of the LEDs and the dimmer settings of the incandescent lights on the same circuit. <S> Part of the problem is noisy dimmers and part is the LEDs susceptibility to small voltage changes, outside the noisy dimmers. <S> I just change one dimmer setting slightly and it stops; until the next time. <A> Your lights should not switch on and off or flicker. <S> If they are not lighting consistantly then they are not working right. <S> A couple things I would check:They are miswired. <S> You need to check (or have checked) the wiring for mistakes. <S> The power supplies for the lights are somehow interacting with each other to cause a drop in voltage at on a regular interval. <S> You could try putting them on separate circuits if they are on the same circuit. <S> If all that comes to naught then I would experiment with changing the switches to a different brand or type and then change the lamps to CFL or incandescent. <S> It is never fun having a unique problem <S> so I wish you luck. <A> Many electricians are used to installing three-way lighting systems with incandescent lights, which are forgiving. <S> With an LED system any dimmer has to be on the load side (the lamp) and the second switch has to be on the power source side. <S> If you think of the lighting system in simple electrical flow terms you would not consider that important, but LED dimmers work by varying pulse width, and long wire runs and other components can affect that. <S> Additionally, a three wire LED dimmer (typically red, black, and red/white) that relies on the neutral path through the load (the LED) may be more sensitive to wiring issues or the design of the LEDs. <S> A four wire dimmer with an additional white wire so <S> the neutral path for the dimmer doesn't pass through the load might be less susceptible to issues. <A> I moved the on/off led bulb to another fixture <S> and it is doing the same thing. <S> Must be the bulb. <S> This is something new I have never seen. <S> At first I thought it was loose in the socket, but it wasn't/. <A> I stumbled on the solution so easy, I was stunned!!!!! <S> If you have LED flicker, just try mixing bulb manufacturers. <S> Even if you have a fixture with 6 bulbs in it; just replace any one of the 6 bulbs with a LED from a DIFFERENT manufacturer. <S> It worked for me in 5 different fixtures where I was having a flickering problem.
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If you have bulbs which are making that demand at different frequencies, and the current available is a bit marginal, this can sometimes make one or more take longer to charge than they should and cause flashing.
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What can I use to lubricate CAT6 cables while installing them? I am about to run some network wires inside the wall at home. I had already done so but apparently too much pressure on them while pulling caused one of the pairs to go bad and therefore prevent gigabit speeds. I am going to replace them so I was wondering what options do I have to make the pulling easier? I have been told soap (yes soap) could be used to pull AC cables but I am afraid it could damage the network cables? Would (sex) lube be any better? Any thoughts on this? Edit: Thanks everyone for the input! I just pulled some new wires, used dish soap and got someone to push from the other side and everything went really smooth! <Q> When someone says soap you have to take in consideration their experience. <S> They may very well mean soap, as it is slippery and would probably work. <S> If, however, they're from the electrical/low voltage field they more likely mean <S> Yellow-77 - or a similar variation available today. <S> A gel-ish type is what you'll likely find at a big-box store. <S> Personally, I prefer the yellow stuff, but I'm old-school like that. <S> I doubt sex lube is what you want. <S> It's probably expensive and not really the consistency you're looking for. <S> But it might work well enough if you've got an abundance laying around. <S> Ideal : <S> Yellow77 <S> When applying a pulling lube don't fall into the trap of thinking the entire wire must be saturated with the stuff. <S> You shouldn't need much more than an initial amount on the head. <S> It will work to coat the path for the following wire. <S> This is why using the proper lube is beneficial. <S> It's consistency works for you. <A> Lubrication is generally only useful when pulling through conduit. <S> If you are pulling through open walls, usually the issues are obstructions, bends, small holes between framing members, etc. <S> All cables will stretch slightly when you pull them, the goal is to not pull so hard as to wreck the cable. <S> Different cable types tolerate this better than others. <S> Fiber optics have zero tolerance, Ethernet a bit of tolerance, and obviously big heavy gauge electrical wire will tolerate a lot more stress. <S> So usually bends are the issue as they significantly increase the required pulling force. <S> After a few 90 degree bends, it becomes almost impossible to pull. <S> When this happens, you will need one or more "pull points" where you can pull a section of wire into, and then continue pulling to the next area. <S> So for example, if you are pulling wire via your attic then down into a wall, first pull all the wire up into the attic including the amount of cable you need to get down the wall, and then finish fishing the wire down the wall. <A> They make special lubricants that are used to pull wires and cables. <S> Here's one example. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-32-oz-Premium-Synthetic-Clear-Lubricant-51028/100660159 <A> I can't imagine how hard you pulled the cable to snap one of the wires. <S> I suggest you reinstall the connectors. <S> You probably just missed the conductor while putting them on. <S> If that doesn't work, pull the cable back out and look for any damage. <S> It may have been snagged on a nail or something. <S> Measure out where the damaged point would be in the wall and open it up. <S> Then try to guide a new cable by hand past the potential rough spot. <A> I have worked in the Caribbean on a couple of projects and I feel your pain on getting the right product to do the job, but I have to ask: What are your walls made of? <S> Solid Block? <S> Hollow with <S> Studs?What <S> are you putting the cable in? <S> Conduit? <S> Free Air? <S> How many Cables in the run? <S> 1,2,3Are <S> you using a pull string of some sort? <S> Everyone wants to use "product" and the benefit only really comes when you can answer:"Are you EVER going to add additional cables to this EXACT location in the future?" <S> If the answer to that question is "no" Then you can definitely use LIQUID SOAP (it will dry sticky and make any future additions difficult with out adding water....... <S> BUT IT WILL WORK <S> And yes...... <S> Sex lube will work also....... and agreed...... awfully expensive to use... <S> but if you got it and you're in a pinch (pun intended) go for it. <S> ALSO...... <S> DO NOT USE a petroleum product to lube your cables..... <S> it will eventually destroy the outer cable jacket and effect the copper pairs inside. <S> Lastly.... try having someone push the cable while you pull <A> You can use petroleum jelly. <S> It's cheap and easy to find. <S> Or wrap the cables in duct tape, duct tape is sturdy and has good gliding properties.
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Sex lube will not work because it dries out and is not viscous enough.
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Which furnace thermostats support variable swing/deadband? My home furnace is currently controlled by a programmable Honeywell thermostat, but it regularly thrashes the furnace by turning the furnace on for just ten or twenty seconds. It seems that the thermostat will register a one-degree drop in temperature for a few seconds, turning the furnace on, but then switch back up to the previous temperature a few seconds later, turning the furnace off again. Presumably, air currents near the thermostat produce rapid swings in temperature of around one degree. After some investigation online, it seem that what I need is a thermostat that supports "variable swing" or " deadband " -- that is, heat to a given temperature (e.g. 25 degrees), then let the temperature cool to a different temperature (e.g. 22 degrees). Apparently Honeywell thermostats do not support this. Which thermostats allow a temperature range to be programmed? I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a smart thermostat; a simple and cheap programmable thermostat would be ideal. Update: the thermostat is a Honeywell Pro TH4000 series, most likely a TH4110D. <Q> Looks like many Honeywell thermostats have a "cycles per hour" setting instead of a deadband setting. <S> Not exactly the same thing but roughly analogous. <S> If your thermostat has that setting you could try changing it. <S> But if the cycle time is 10 seconds , I'm not sure the deadband is really the problem... <S> even 1º should take longer than that. <S> Do you have a hot air vent blowing directly on the thermostat or something? <S> Or possibly some other problem with the furnace not lighting? <A> One possible solution would be to insert some time-delay relays into the loop to enforce minimum on/off times. <S> A simpler one would be to replace with a more functionally correct 'stat. <S> Even the old mercury bimetal stats had sufficient hysteresis to keep this sort of thrashing from happening. <S> It's also possible that your current 'stat does have adjustments that are mis-adjusted which would help with this. <S> Whether or not you could find documentation on them I don't know, and you have not mentioned a model number. <S> If you pop it off the wall and have a look at the back you might see something, or you might get lucky if you look the model number up online. <S> Often older stats will have somewhat obfusticated terminology intended to keep you calling your heating guy rather than adjusting it yourself. <S> If your heating guy wasn't too bright this could backfire (after all, he knew how to adjust a mercury 'stat, so why learn anything new? <S> Followed by the "newfangled junk" not working, just as he predicted while throwing the directions in the trash.) <A> I have the same problem. <S> Set to 60 <S> °F it will fast cycle 15 minutes on at 60°F, and 10 minutes off at 59°F. <S> So I called Honeywell. <S> Their answer: build a custom thermostat that has an "anticipator circuit", with hysteresis like the old Mercury thermostat. <S> "All Honeywell thermostats have a +-1°F or +-.5°c and are not adjustable" said tech support. <S> I did a test. <S> With my gas forced air furnace and my Honeywell RTH221B thermostat, I set the switch on the back to water water/electric, instead of gas /oil. <S> Result: with set point at 68°F, it will turn on at 67°F, and off at 71°F. <S> I believe <S> this is the fix you were looking for, unless you have a heat pump. <S> Gumby stay flexible. <A> I know this is old, but it is surprisingly hard to find this information on the web. <S> I had the same problem with a Honeywell thermostat in my old apartment. <S> It was located by the door and the temperature at that location <S> would change by a degree frequently, which was a major problem because my forced air heat was very loud. <S> I spoke to Honeywell and they do not make products with variable swing, so I went to a different company. <S> One solution for you is LUXPRO PSPA711a <S> http://www.luxproproducts.com/pdfs/PSPA711a_NL_ENG_WebManual.pdf <S> It has a variable swing that can go between 0.5 and 4.5 degrees (the 0.5 is marked as .25 because it starts heats when the temp is 0.25 degrees below the set temperature and shuts off when temp is 0.25 above). <S> This worked for me <S> and I believe Lux makes other thermostats with variable swing so check out their models. <S> I ended up not liking this thermostat because each day has 4 different periods temperature settings, and everyday is programmable. <S> If you want to change the weekday temperature, you have to sort through 28 different periods and adjust 5 of them. <S> Works for people that need to adjust each day, but this was overkill for my needs. <S> Lux doesn't always highlight that variable swing in the product description, so read the manuals. <A> I have a very long house with long duct runs. <S> This reveals itself as a problem with my Honeywell 7600 thermostat which has a very narrow hysteresis. <S> I was almost ready to throw the thing away <S> but I discovered that the ducts run under the floor nearby the 'stat, and so heat rises up the wall is mounted on but is captured under the thermostat box bottom forcing it up through the stat. <S> To solve that problem somewhat, I spaced the thermostat OFF the wall, allowing the warm air to pass BEHIND the thermostat instead of through it. <S> This means the heat runs a few minutes longer and that has made a big difference with the rooms at the end of the the long runs! <A> Is your vent pointing directly at your thermostat? <S> that would affect the temperature reading when the system is on.
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Defective thermostat certainly seems like the most likely option here, so probably any reasonable programmable thermosat will work more correctly than this, no need for fancy and pricy "smarts."
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How do I look up a contractor's license status in Pennsylvania? I've seen this question but it's a few years old and isn't specific to a state. I am past the inspection stage on a potential new house and the seller wants to use a certain plumber to do some repairs. They forwarded me an estimate and the plumber's address comes up as a residence. I realize that doesn't necessarily mean much, but Googling the business name also yields no results. Does the state of Pennsylvania maintain a searchable online database of licensed contractors in the state, so I can see if this plumber is in fact licensed and insured in PA (specifically, the city of Philadelphia)? <Q> I ended up calling the city's 311 information line and they were able to search their database of licenses for me <S> (it turns out this guy is not licensed). <S> The city does maintain an online database of licensed professionals of several types (including plumbers) here: http://www.phila.gov/li/Pages/FindLicensedProfessional.aspx . <S> But from what I was told by the city, that list is not comprehensive, only contractors who agree to appear there show up. <S> So if someone is listed there, they are definitely licensed, but if they aren't listed, that doesn't necessarily mean they are not licensed. <S> For a definitive answer, you need to call the city's 311 line. <A> A contractor being licensed is one thing but likely does not give an immediate indication of work quality. <S> But a whole lot more can come from references. <S> Ask for references and then contact them to see what they thought of the contractor and quality of work performed. <S> Do keep in mind that references are not going to be offered from previous clients that the contractor had problems with so you still have to take what you hear with a grain of salt. <A> Are plumbers even licensed in PA? <S> There's a website to look up professional licenses (many states have similar sites): <S> http://www.licensepa.state.pa.us <S> but there's no category for "plumber". <S> Being bonded and insured is another matter... <S> mostly for liability, not legal permission. <S> You could also check 3rd party websites like Angie's list or the Better Business Bureau, but of course those are not official sources and are subject to all kinds of biases. <S> EDIT : <S> Looks like I was wrong. <S> In PA, Master Plumber licenses are done by the city, not the state. <A> In the midwest in most towns the plumber and electricians would be licensed in each town. <S> I would simply call town hall and ask them if this person is licensed there. <S> Beyond that the easiest way to check the quality of work or liability is the inspection report. <S> If the city didn't inspect the work than it wasn't licensed. <S> If they did and signed off on it their inspector shares blame with plumber.
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It turns out that licensing for plumbers (and other contractors) in the city of Philadelphia is separate from whatever licensing concerns the rest of the state of Pennsylvania. You might have to call Philadelphia city hall since I can't find a license lookup online.
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What can I burn in fireplace to minimize smoke I had my fireplace checked and was told that the flue is too small for the fireplace (historic home, botched renovation by prior owner). As a result, a normal fire sends smoke billowing into the room. I'd still like to use the fireplace for appearance rather than heat. Is there anything I can burn that will minimize the smoke? I know I could get an electric insert but I'm interested in other options first. <Q> How about a sealed wood-burning insert? <S> All the smoke will go right up the flue. <A> You can purchase fireplace inserts or individual fake logs used in those inserts that accept gel fuel cartridges. <S> The gel fuel burns with very little smoke and may be a good alternative for your situation. <S> Most major hardware stores will carry them or be able to order them for you. <S> We have the same problem here and decided to use lots of colorful candles instead as @BrownRedHawk suggested in their answer. <A> Short answer - not really. <S> Electric insert is the only way to go if you don't want to mess with your chimney. <S> A wood burning insert (or gas, or pellet) will certainly keep everything contained, but requires a functional chimney with proper venting. <S> Most inserts require the chimney to be lined with a 6" diameter steel liner, although some smaller inserts will support 5" liner if you have a tall chimney ( tall chimney = better draft ). <S> If you have a small chimney opening with a clay liner, there may not be room for a steel liner inside it (our 1924 colonial didn't). <S> The existing clay liner may need to be broken out. <S> Gas inserts (natural or propane) produce flue gases that need to go up the chimney too. <S> These flue gases are corrosive, so require PVC vents to the outside (4" should suffice as noted by Steven). <A> No smoke, no heat and low energy consumption. <S> I've seen some of these that are amazingly convincing even fairly close up. <S> You can find these also referred to as a "flameless fireplace". <A> I've seen some beautiful sets of different height pillar candles that looks quite nice. <S> It may also still be possible to have a gas insert fitted, and a steel flue liner fitted up the original chimney. <A> A natural gas/propane insert does not produce any smoke. <S> It does produce CO2 and CO, which are vented up the chimney. <S> You don't specify how small your chimney is, but they don't require a huge one. <S> If I recall, my unit has a 4" duct. <S> If the chimney is just a no-go then you could still install a direct-vent unit and vent out the exterior wall instead of the chimney.
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You could install one of those fire simulators what has colored lights shining on a piece of translucent fabric that is fluttered around via a small electric fan.
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Best way to stop boiler steam from entering attic I have a cape cod. The boiler is in the basement and vents to the outside about a foot above ground level. I get a considerable amount of snow melt and ice buildup in the attic section directly above the vent. I have recently been remodeling and I cut a hole to get into this section of the attic (about a 6'x12' area between 2 alcoves). My initial intent in here was to investigate and patch up cold spots on the wall as we had a breeze coming through a corner that borders this. I found 3 things that could be causing my snow melt and ice buildup. Spots that are not well insulated, particularly switches, outlets, and a corner section. 2 Copper radiant heat pipes that go from one end of the attic to the junction box at the other end that were just sitting under the insulation, fully exposed every 16" over the studs. Steam...coming from the boiler, into the eave vents and into the attic. This is condensing on the roofing nails, then dripping onto the insulation. I can solve the first 2 with various types of insulation. I could block the eave vents, which is a quick solution. I could extend the pipe out and up past the roof, which with the current ice issue, could just get knocked down, plus I'm not sure how it would look aesthetically. I could also move the pipe from one basement wall to another (likely best permanent solution). My question is, is it safe or acceptable to block off that section of the eave vents? Is there a solution that allows water to drip out, but not allow steam to come in? If I covered the vents with blown insulation, it should block the steam and allow water to drip through it. <Q> My old physics teacher would give you an 'A' for simply creating this question. <S> It is important to remember that whatever solution you choose must fix the problem, and not just move the problem to a different place <S> - AKA: the Wack-A-Mole paradox. <S> I think the first step is to get an infrared thermometer,I chose this one,but pick your own vendor and price point <S> http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Digital-Infrared-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ <S> This will allow you to identify the source of the heat leaks, and locate the problem areas. <S> After you know what problem you are trying to fix, we can move forward from there. <A> Since you have continuous soffit vents, blocking off any one section would not be the end of the world. <S> You would want to block it with an air barrier material like plywood or foam insulation board, sealed at the edges with caulk or spray foam. <S> Blown cellulose alone won't cut it, since it is air-permeable. <S> Relocating the vent could work too. <S> Having it exit the house under a gable end rather than an eave would put the exhaust farther away from the roofline and out of the path of a soffit. <A> There is only one right answer: build a chimney and vent it above the roof. <S> If you don't extend it beyond the roof line, you will continue to get the issues with the ice dams since the heated vapor will melt the snow above the exhaust point. <S> My house is built in the 70's and we have a chimney (no fireplace) which vents the exhaust from my gas water heater.
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If the aesthetics don't bother you, just extend the vent duct right to or above the roof line. The problem is most likely hot exhaust coming from the vent entering the attic and melting snow on the roof, creating an ice dam and snow melt.
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How to find a motion sensing light switch that turns lights on AND off when motion is detected? Location: USA. The light switch to our laundry room is in the hallway outside the door. I replaced the standard light switch with a motion sensing switch (Leviton ODS10-ID). When we enter the room, the lights turn on automatically and stay on for about 10 minutes. The problem is, when we leave the room, the sensor is triggered again and the lights stay on for another 10 minutes while no one is in the room. I have researched various types of motion sensing light switch products from all the major manufacturer's websites and can't find anything that will simply turn lights on when motion is detected and then turn off when motion is detected again. I'm okay with getting the lights turned off on me if someone happens to walk by the room while I'm in there. It seems like a common need, so perhaps I am in need of guidance on the correct terminology to use. This is not a request for a product recommendation, rather a request for help on researching products or re-wiring needs to include an additional sensor that could potentially address this waste of electricity while continuing to have the convenience of a motion sensing light switch. <Q> Put the sensor in the space you are trying to light, and suddenly this "common need" becomes "not a need at all" which is why you can't find them, since that's how it's done, when done conventionally. <S> Either move the switch into the room or get a remote sensor switch and put the sensor in the room. <A> I have a similar situation in my restroom. <S> My sensor is in the room and the time constant is 1 minute only. <S> Everyone in the house is used to eventually move from time to time ... <S> this may be applicable for your laundry as well. <S> Simnilar to you <S> I started with a longer delay (5 min in my case), but that's too long as long as the motion detector constantly "resets" the time. <S> Long delays are only good for stairway lights without motion detector where you speculate that a user will need a lighting period of max. <S> x minutes. <A> It sounds like you need to teach the folks you live with (and maybe yourself), how to turn off lights when they (you) leave a room. <S> Occupancy sensors; like the one you have, turn on when they detect motion, and have a delayed off when no more motion is detected. <S> In some cases the delayed off is adjustable, and can be set for 10, 20, or 30 minutes. <S> Some devices even have a test mode, that will turn the load off after 30 seconds of not detecting motion. <S> As Ecnerwal points out, it would be helpful to have the device installed inside the room <S> it's monitoring. <S> Though even so, the light would stay on for 10 minutes after you left. <S> Though most occupancy sensors have an actual on/off button, so you could always turn the lights off manually. <S> Until that day, you're stuck with the lights on for 10 minutes. <A> As stated, this is not really possible with normal relay switches. <S> you CAN however add a toggle relay board which will toggle each time <S> it sensors state changes from the PIR or motion sensor. <S> LINK <S> HERE <S> These boards can be found/built at any electronics store. <S> In this example, you would just wire the normally open channels from your sensor to this board (on this one its the two middle inputs near the button). <S> Then, every time the sensor picks you up it would change the state of the light (from off to on) <S> What I would also do, is replicate the normally open channel to a toggle switch (bell press light switch) near the exit. <S> Since you will be dependant on the fact that the sensor has not picked you up a few times when you walk around the room (haha) <S> the other thing you can do is employ a delay on the sensor, so that it only re-activates after 30 seconds or so. <S> All in all... <S> This is not an elegant solution since the sensor and circuit will probably just turn off and on the whole time and annoy you!. <S> you could get it right, but not without intelligent circuitry.
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Each pulse of the motion sensor will reset the 1-minute timer, so after the door is closed from the outside (the last movement the sensor detects) the light will stay for 1 more minute and then be switched off. A switch like this either does not exist, or is not commercially available. At some point in the future, biometric switches that can more accurately detect the presence of a person may become economically viable. You could probably find a commercial kit online somewhere (besides the provided link)
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Repair cracks in concrete block wall that's no longer moving I'm fixing up my detached garage built in the early 1900's. At some point there was some movement in the walls (not the slab, the walls are built next to the slab). There doesn't seem to be any more movement; however, there are cracks left between the blocks (none of the blocks themselves are cracked). It seems to be a combination of some decay in the mortar and the settling. The largest crack seems to be about 3/4" wide and runs from the bottom of the wall zig-zagging up about half way to the corner of the wall. What would be the best way to fix these cracks? Cleaning them out and adding more mortar? <Q> Before you patch it, I would recommend making sure it isn't moving any more. <A> If you live in a cold climate where the blocks are at risk of cracking from the freeze/thaw cycle, then I would recommend using a caulk that is specifically designed for concrete block. <S> The color of the caulk will be pretty close to the color of unpainted concrete when it cures, and isn't very noticeable. <S> I repaired a few cracks in my garage with the same product about 3 or 4 years ago, and it seems to have held up pretty well. <S> The caulk remains flexible, and will still stay in place if there is still movement in the wall. <S> It will take a lot of caulk to fill the cracks. <S> I would suggest buying several tubes at a time. <S> Also, when you install it, you could use painter's tape to leave clean lines. <S> If you look at it from a distance, it should look just like a mortar joint. <A> I would fill the cells solid at least one course above the crack then restrike the joints
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One common method is to epoxy a small piece of glass across the crack; if the crack is moving, it will break the glass.
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Can I use an extension cord for a mini fridge? I read a thread earlier basically saying a fridge should not be run on an extension cord. I was curious why that is. And how it would be different than having the same distance ran in the wall to an outlet. But I was really more curious if it would be any safer for a mini fridge instead. I am building a fermentation chamber and kegorator out of a mini fridge. The fridge plugs into a thermo controller. The thermo controller has a 3 foot power cord on it. This is a very popular thing to do, people do it all the time without burning down their house or garage. I may have to put another 1 or 2 foot extension between the controller and fridge cord. All this will be tucked out of the way and secured. <Q> An extension cord is usually lighter gauge than house wiring introduces an additional connection, another opportunity for reduced voltage <S> the connection may be exposed to dust and/or liquids <S> the connection can easily be loosened exposing open, live conductors <S> the connection may be in a place more accessible to children, pets, falling metallic debris, vehicle tires, etc. <S> In severe (though rare) cases, the light gauge wire could be a fire hazard if the fridge runs especially hard, like when an overabundance or lack of refrigerant oil causes the pump to work hard. <S> In commercial and industrial sites (at least around here), fire inspectors require immediate removal of extension cords from anything vaguely permanent looking. <S> If your kegerator is going to be in use for some time, why not install a real outlet in the right place for it? <S> In a garage or utility area, the wall doesn't (usually—depending on your wife) have to be perfectly patched. <S> The wire, outlet, box, nails, etc., won't set you back more than about $15. <A> The issue comes down to using extension cords that are not rated to take the power of the appliance. <S> A fridge connected to a 20A circuit may fry <S> an extension cord rated for 10-20A. Many many people have to run extension cords for fridges. <S> Is it a best practice? <S> No. <S> I would first check your fridge's manual and see if there are instructions or wiring a new cord. <S> If there isn't make sure that the extension cord you go with is rated for 20A - I have bought this cord and was happy with it. <S> I have ran everything with it. <A> In reality your mini fridge is at most a 12 amp draw or designed for a 15 amp circuit. <S> A 14 gauge cord will be fine in this case. <S> Most folks don't realize that cords like sjo, so, are actually rated higher than standard wiring for example a sjo cord with #14 wire is actually rated at 18 amps per the NEC table 400.5.a.1. <S> So this will provide enough capacity for the inrush current especially since it is a small unit and a short cord. <S> Depending on the actual draw it is possible an even smaller cord could be used for example a 16 awg cord is good for 13 amps so if the draw on the mini fridge is less than 10 amps this size cord would work without problems.
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The lighter gauge wire may lower the life of the fridge's motor by not providing full voltage especially during motor starting. Also note that if you are making this a "permanent" connection then I would make sure there is no chance of the cords becoming partially dislodged.
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Biscuit, dowel or simple braces for making unit top with inset lid and slim sides? I've had 5 pieces of iroko machined for creating a top to my DIY TV lift, complete with a lid for the TV to pop up through: The dimensions are based on the pre-existing cabinet, and the lid size needed for the TV to rise up. I was originally taking my cue from this YouTube video wherein he joins his (very long) pieces with biscuits; however now I have my pieces I'm concerned that: The two sides are too slim to really hold the whole thing together with any strength (as I imagine I could only use one biscuit on each side); The boards may be relatively slim (20mm) and as such need small biscuits or dowels, compounding point 1 . Bearing in mind that a) I'm a total novice, and b) I don't own a biscuit-cutter, I was wondering whether a far easier solution might be to use one or two 'braces' (apologies if this is not the correct term) running on the underside of the lid, on either side, joining the front and back pieces and spanning the shorter side pieces. These would be hidden inside the unit once the lid is in place, so it shouldn't affect the look. Although the top isn't structural, it should still be solid and sound, and most likely need to at least bear the weight of a graceless cat who will hurl his body at any piece of furniture like a sack of potatoes. TL;DR Illustrations Biscuits: Braces: <Q> Part of it depends on what material you're using for the top. <S> If it's hardwood or plywood, a good quality wood glue and biscuits / dowels / pocket screws will likely hold it together just fine. <S> If it's something like MDF or OSB, then I'd want some additional joining mechanism such as dog bone fasteners. <S> Braces below are fine, as long as they don't interfere with the attachment of the top to the cabinet. <S> Rather than thin braces, though, you could do wide flat ones, and glue, preferably with nails and/or screws. <S> That would give you lots of surface area for the glue to adhere to. <S> I'm a belt and suspenders kind of guy, I typically glue + screw or glue + pin nail things together. <A> Honestly for solid wood boards <S> (hardwood in your case) just applying wood glue and clamping would provide more than sufficient strength to hold the weight of a cat. <S> Simple glue joints are used to make table tops without additional fasteners. <S> The strength of the glue joint is generally stronger than the wood itself and since your boards have already been machined they provide great gluing surfaces. <S> Just don't clamp so hard you squeeze out all the glue. <S> 20mm (a little more than 3/4") is plenty thick to use most fastening systems including biscuits or dowels. <S> Biscuits you need a special bicuit cutting tool which can be expensive. <S> Dowels benefit from a jig to get them to line up properly. <S> My personal choice is to use pocket screw holes for applications like this. <S> and you don't need expensive bar clamps as you would with glue alone but a face clamp would benefit to keep everything flush. <S> You can also just use standard quick clamps though. <S> I use mine frequently but there are more advanced models that make positioning easier. <S> I have comparisons of the different Kreg Jig models on my site. <S> The way I would do it is to drill the pocket screw holes on the undersides of the boards using 3 screws on each side, 1 of which is screwed onto the long board. <S> 2 screws per side would be adequate but I like to have some on the alternate board for glueups like this. <A> As you surmise, the biscuits offer very little in added strength in a construction of this sort. <S> The primary strength in a biscuit construction is in the overall glue joint, and on a thin piece, that is problematic. <S> This is even more problematic when the piece is horizontal rather than vertical and when some weight might be applied, stressing the joints. <S> Not just the cat, but an occasional hand leaning on the top. <S> The braced approach is much more stable, especially if the joints are glued and the braces themselves are glued and screwed. <S> You do need to give yourself a bit of spacing between the lid and the frame to allow for a modest amount of dimensional shift due to humidity changes.
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A Kreg Mini jig will suffice for your needs as long as you have a power drill and only costs about $13
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What should I do about a stubborn screw on the middle of a dryer cord connection? I am attaching a 3 prong dryer cord to a dryer. The middle connection is being stubborn. The screw gets to a certain point and is stuck. It will not tighten and the connection is very loose. Can I safely use a metal washer to tighten the connection? <Q> The important thing about the electric cord is that all connections be tight, so if the screw will hold then using a washer to pack the gap so that the connector is pressed against the conductor would create a safe connection. <A> You can buy lengths of terminal strip at a wholesaler for peanuts. <S> you could short it out or expose yourself to live electrical parts. <A> Using a washer probably isn't a good idea. <S> The screws on those terminals are critical and must work exactly right. <S> The tightness of those screws makes the electrical connection secure and keeps it secure over months and years subject to heat, humidity, and vibration. <S> If that connection is loose, it is not safe. <S> You might be able to figure out what's stopping the screw. <S> It's possible <S> there's some debris inside the hole, and if you can remove it without damaging the threads, the screw will work as it should. <S> If the threads in the hole were malformed or damaged, either by cross threading the screw when you tried to drive it or otherwise, that will stop the screw. <S> If you force it in, it might hold the terminal down securely, but it might not hold up. <S> I would not force it and hope for the best. <S> It's possible the screw that you're installing bonds the terminal to the metal frame of the dryer - the screw goes through the terminal block into a tapped hole in the sheet metal below. <S> This bond is particularly important for safe function of the dryer. <S> If this is the case, you may be able to move the terminal block around a little and get the block aligned with the hole. <S> If you have to buy a replacement terminal strip, do not assume that a generic terminal strip is a suitable replacement, buy one from the dryer manufacturer. <S> Even if you buy a generic terminal strip rated for the voltage and current, if one of the terminal screws is a bonding screw as described above, a generic terminal block won't provide that bond, which would be a hazard. <A> You may have cross-threaded the screw in the hole. <S> Back it out and try again and make sure it goes in straight. <S> It'll be more difficult now because it will want to keep going in crooked because the screw will have created a new set of grooves criss-crossing over the real threads. <S> Hopefully you haven't damaged the holes threads too much and can get it going right.
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If the terminal block isn't aligned correctly with the tapped hole in the underlying sheet metal, you won't be able to land the screw all the way, and if you just force it, you may damage the terminal block. If the connection you are referring to is at the dryer end the connection is typically a piece of terminal strip, just replace it. I definitely don't recommend jamming anything in there that isn't meant to be there
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Removing silicone caulk from counter I have a granite counter top, and a small granite backsplash that sits on the counter and goes up about 3 inches. There's about a 1/8" gap between the two that had silicone caulk which I am trying to remove so that I can replace it. Most of it is out. However the upper side of the gap is almost impossible to get perfect. Wondering if there is a tool, material, or technique that I could use that I just don't know about. <Q> A utility knife works pretty well for me. <S> If it truly is granite, it is difficult to damage with steel blades, except by repeated slashing. <S> Of course you won't be able to remove every shred of the old caulk, but as long as there is significant clean and bare edge in the gap, it is good enough to hold a new application. <A> When I set the splashes on my granite tops, any ooze that occurred with the silicone, I wiped to the best of my ability. <S> with paint thinner. <S> The trick is to govern the amount you use so it lessens the mess. <S> That said, with the ooze that did happen, since the paint thinner made everything so shiny, even with many, many repeated wipes with a moistened cloth, I still left a bit here and there. <S> To remove the excess, I used a razor knife blade, without a handle, the handle of a razor knife forces you at an angle, so <S> the whole edge of the blade cannot make contact with he countertop surface. <S> I did make a duct tape handle. <S> It took a good number of wraps to make it thick, no more than a 1/4". <S> This will not be kind to the fingers, it will hurt, it may even be a bit dangerous, mainly behind the faucet, but it worked for me, it got the corners precise, the surfaces clean. <S> Always use a new blade!!! <S> If you have a lot to do, say over 20-30 ft., change blades, keep the edge pristine! <A> If you're the kind of person who likes a specialized tool for every job, companies make "Caulk removal tools" (Google it!) <S> that usually look something like this. <S> (source: vancouvertool.com ) Unnecessary for most people, but it is plastic instead of metal <S> so if you're really worried about scratching something, it might be a good choice. <A> Dimethyl adipate, softens silicone caulk. <S> Sometimes marketed as caulk remover. <S> http://www.noblegov.com/media/catalog/product/msds/N399C37.pdf
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A powerful shop vacuum mated to a crevice tool slowly run along the gap should do great job of getting all the dust and crud out and maybe remove some loose old caulk unreachable with the knife..
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Why does my utility sink faucet vibrate and pound loudly? I have a water faucet in my utility room that is about 10 feet from the water heater. It is the only faucet in my house that makes any noise, but when I turn the hot water on even a little bit it will start to pound / bang / hammer loudly and also vibrate considerably. You can find a short video of the event on YouTube here . The laundry washer is right next to the faucet and utilizes the same copper pipe for hot water, and I have never seen it exhibit the same behavior. What causes this and how can I fix it? I did find this similar question on this site already, but I'm so green that I couldn't tell you if my situation is the same or different; so I'm assuming you all will tell me if it is a duplicate and I'll follow that advice: Why do my pipes bang when running hot water in my kitchen? <Q> Although the faucet looks to be an older style faucet it looks to me more like a model that is currently still in production and still available. <S> Based not only on the photo but also on the video. <S> That faucet has a cartridge instead of a stem valve like older faucets might have. <S> Could be as simple as something stuck in the cartridge or the cartridge has worn out. <S> The first thing I would do is try and swap the hot and cold water cartridges to see if the noise follows the cartridge. <S> If it does, replace the cartridge. <S> If that's not the problem make sure everything is tightened down properly where the spout meets the faucet body and check that all the fasteners for the piping are secure. <S> There are a couple of manufacturers that make that style of faucet which you'll need to contact for a replacement cartridge. <S> Home Depot currently has one from Glacier Bay which would be my first guess since they've been around a while. <S> Here's a link to the faucet on HomeDepot.com for reference. <A> Generally banging in the pipes occurs due to water hammer. <S> This is a huge problem in large piping systems that engineers go through great lengths to avoid. <S> The water hammer many times is experienced as you change the rate of flow (opening or closing the valve). <S> As mentioned in the comments there are add-ons available for purchase that will stop this. <S> For more background on the physics behind water hammer take a look here . <A> I had jumped to the conclusion that it was a water hammer effect, until I watched the video. <S> It shows us the valve acting like a reed. <S> I had a tub spout do this until it warmed up, also. <S> The faucet looks rather old and seams to have been repaired in the past, judging by the nice shiny knobs. <S> You could repair the innards of the valve again, or replace the whole thing. <S> Furd's answer at doityourself.com helped me shed some light on this: Problems such as you are describing are often caused by a loose disc (or more rarely a loose seat) in the valve. <S> What kind of valve do you have on the washing machine supply? <S> If it is a globe valve you can sometimes tighten the screw holding the disc (washer) but if it is a gate valve you are probably going to need to replace the valve.
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It's possible there is air in your lines causing this, but a poorly seating valve will vibrate with either water or air.
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Where do I need to insulate my house to help avoid ice dams? We have had some leaking this past winter due to ice dams. After we get everything dried out, we would like to put up some insulation to help prevent this in the future. Is insulating the ceiling enough or do we need to insulate along the actual beams of the house (we have easy access to a crawl space along part of the roof but not for an addition to part of the house which was where the main problem was)? <Q> Ice damns are caused by heat rising to the underside of the roof, heated it and melting the snow, where it refreezes as ice. <S> You need to make sure no hot air is leaving your house - insulate thoroughly. <S> Airflow is also crucial - make sure you leave baffles to provide airflow from the eaves to every part of the attic. <S> If you have a "one and a half" or similar you need to provide that channel of air between the corner (of roof) crawl spaces and the proper attic. <S> A well ventilated attic, with no heat bleeding into it, will not ice dam! <A> Just to point out, if your roof is un-penetrable by water, for example if it's an epdm rubber roof, water can pool against the roof behind ice dams and will not enter the house. <S> Ice dams are nearly impossible to prevent in certain weather. <S> Here in Massachusetts, I'm hard pressed to find a house without some ice dams, even brand new houses. <S> Clearing the snow from roof and insulating the attic are the surest way to prevent ice dams. <S> The difference between those that leak and those that don't is often whether the water that inevitably builds up behind the dam can find a way into the house. <S> I'm not saying that reducing ice dams by making sure warm air doesn't filter up against the roof isn't a good thing to do, but just that the roofing materials and roofing job are equally if not more important. <A> Ok, since you know that thermal insulation is crucial in order to avoid ice damps I will make the long story short: two places are crucial when it comes to insulating roofs. <S> I would suggest you to use rock wool. <S> Because of condensation you can wrap it with PVC foil, or put foil as an extra layer under the wool. <S> Also, eaves must be protected same way. <S> In this case insulation should go over facade wall 10-20cm (4-8 inches). <S> Wool should be 8-10 cm (3-4 inches) just to be on the safe side. <S> One other thing I forgot to mention: everything that is going through your roof (ventilation etc.) <S> should also be insulated. <S> In this case you can wrap it with wool which could be thinner, because thick wool can't be folded.
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Doesn’t just put thermal insulation horizontally, on the floor of your attic; put it between roof rafters and if temperatures are REALLY low you can put it even around rafters.
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Are sheet metal screws required for connecting round duct branches? I've finished dry-fitting a new branch (6-inch round) from the main furnace duct to a new register. I've supported each section of duct with metal strap and have begun taping all connections with foil tape. The tape and strap seems quite sufficient to hold everything together. Are screws required for every junction? The other branches in this (older) home are screws-only; no tape. <Q> Yes, now a days screws and a sealant of some sort are required. <S> Use aluminum tape, not the gray plastic crap with cloth backing, it falls apart in a few years. <S> There are brush on sealants also. <A> What I've learned thru doing residential HVAC for a couple of years in Michigan is that for it to be up to code you need at least three screws for under 8 inch diameter ducts. <S> Anything larger deserves at least four. <S> Keep in mind <S> it's not always possible to evenly distribute the screws, so this is why you also want to use hangers of some sort. <S> Finally, use mastic sealant or aluminum tape; be sure to degrease your duct when using tape as the duct has oil on it from production and tape will not always stick. <A> Self Screwing Sheet Metal Screws + <S> Air Duct Sealant/Caulk + <S> Aluminum Foil Tape + <S> Duct Wrap (if in unconditioned space) <A> An alternative to a screw is to use a rivet like a pop rivet. <S> You need a diamond hole cutter to make the hole for the rivet.
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Using rivets will result in a tight, permanent connection that will not work loose and will not have any sharp protrusions.
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Water damage in bathroom ceiling floor: how to treat and then prevent? Water on the floor next to the bathtub in the upstairs bathroom (tile floor and tile baseboard) was allowed to sit for a half hour, then I heard drip-drip-drip in the bathroom directly below it. We rushed to clean it up, but I was disheartened to see this: What should I do now? I turned off my house humidifier and cranked the heat. What else? Should I fix it? How? Or should I leave it, figuring it is going to happen again? How do I prevent water on the floor from seeping through so quickly? <Q> Bathroom floors are not supposed to leak. <S> You may want to pay to have the floor redone properly. <S> I assume this is a new house that you are just discovering this. <S> The photo looks like plastered drywall. <S> Theoretically it can be dryed out, but that would not be an easy operation and practically requires removing the drywall to get full access to it, so if you remove it you may as well replace it. <A> Cut the damaged drywall out. <S> With it out inspect the area between floors to see if there's any moisture or other damage. <S> Dry it out, run a fan, spray with mildewcide, whatever it needs. <S> See if you can see any light shining in from the upstairs bathroom now that you have access so you can identify the source of the leak. <S> Repair the drywall with a drywall patch then tape, mud, prime and paint. <S> How much water are we talking about on the floor? <S> Did you want to see if you could turn it into a hot tub? <S> Did you not close the shower curtain all the way and a lot of water hit the floor? <S> Or was it something minor <S> like you didn't use a bath mat and your feet got the floor wet? <S> You really need to identify the source of the water. <S> Normally tile, even a tile job that isn't done with an underlying waterproof membrane or sealed isn't going to result in significant water seepage through the tile for most normal things bathroom floors are used for. <S> It's more likely there's some sort of penetration somewhere. <S> The toilet drain (toilet base should be caulked to floor), the tub/floor joint, joints where floors meet walls, plumbing penetrations etc. <S> Is the caulking bad in any of those areas? <S> If so replace or add it if not there using silicone caulk. <S> Is the grout cracked and allowing water to pass through? <S> If the caulking is bad is there some reason that it's bad like the floor flexes too much when there's weight on it? <S> If so you need to address the framing before you reseal. <A> The perfect way to repair it is to slice out the drywall, reinstall, retape, replaster, and repaint; there is no guarantee that this won't happen again. <S> Most people will either ignore it entirely, or run a scraper along the popped paint to knock it off, put a little bit of drywall mud on it, sand it, and spot paint. <S> It is very very hard to get ceiling paint to match, but relatively few people look over there. <S> I'd also throw an absorbent bath mat next to the tub and teach the kids that it isn't a swimming pool.
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Normally wet drywall has to be replaced, otherwise it will grow mold which is bad. If so repair the grout and seal it.
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Clear densely-packed snow from driveway? I'm experiencing my first real winter. Our house has an asphalt driveway about 100' long. I've been shoveling it when the snow gets too deep, but cars going in and out have left 2–3" of densely-packed snow that is very difficult to get up. I got out my metal garden shovel and used that a bit, but it's slow going and is probably damaging the driveway. Is there a better way? <Q> An ice chopper with some weight in the business end, such as <S> this one can be very effective; you can use it to scrape the ice/compressed snow up, and if needed, can chop at the tougher stuff. <S> The tradeoff for the extra weight is more physical exertion, but I find that I make much faster progress. <A> Given that you have already got the packed layer (clear any snow before driving on it is the way to avoid that) <S> your choices are chip away at it, chemistry, or physics. <S> Chemistry is salt or calcium chloride. <S> Salt is cheaper, calcium chloride works at lower temperatures. <S> Even if you don't use enough to melt everything, if it can melt some holes through to the black sufrace, that will help with... <S> Physics depends on whether the sun shines. <S> When it does, spreading anything that makes the driveway dark will help it to melt itself clear - wood ashes, the dirtier rocksalt (chemistry AND physics), sand, etc. <S> - those will also help to get some traction on the icy layer until it does melt clear. <S> Getting any part of the black surface exposed will also help. <S> Under some conditions, once you get a strip cleared, you may be able to find times of day when you can peel up a fairly large sheet of ice once the sun has started to work on it. <S> Chipping away at it is a LOT of work for anything more than a tiny driveway. <A> Realistically it may not be possible to remove 2-3 inches of packed snow & ice at this point without using an obscene amount of ice-melt chemicals. <S> If you are insistent on trying to remove the snow now, I like to use a heavy snow scoop like this: https://www.suncast.com/sf1850.html <S> The metal edge and two-handed handle make it easier to break up and move packed snow. <S> It might be hard to find something like that this late in the winter, though. <S> But really, next year you should just try to stay on top of it and shovel before cars drive over the snow. <A> I use one of these, edger. <S> Works best for me. <A> Wait until the temperature drops as low as it will, <S> then it will break up into chunks a lot easier right down to the asphalt or cement surface and shovel off with a lot less effort. <S> From the land of the frozen chozen.
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I would say you should just use enough to break up any smooth ice that might be a safety hazard and then wait until temperatures warm enough for you to shovel the slush off.
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Is insulation necessary under slab with hydronic radiant heat? We are getting ready to pour a new concrete slab over top of an old slab where a house was demolished. The old slab is 4-6 inches thick, and the new slab will be 3-4 inches thick. We would like to run PEX lines for a hydronic radiant heat system in the new slab. From the research I have done, everyone says to use insulation under the slab to prevent the heat from going into the ground instead of into the house. I am wondering how critical that is and how much it will affect the efficiency of our system since we don't have the option of putting insulation under the slab. Should we abandon the radiant heat idea? Any advice is appreciated! <Q> If you want to do radiant infloor heating you will need to insulate under the slab. <S> If you don't you will constantly be rejecting heat to the ground underneath the slab, and it will suck excess heat out of the system. <S> If your not going to insulate beneath the slab, abandon the idea of radiant infloor. <S> Your also going to have to use HE Pex for radiant infloor. <S> Standard waterline Pex is not allowed for hydronic heating systems. <A> It is thermal mass; virtually the opposite thing. <S> If you can't put insulation under the new radiant hydronic slab, you should abandon it. <S> 50% of the heat will he lost under the house. <S> It will run all the time and cost you a ton of money. <S> Radiant slabs are often abandoned in my experience. <S> They often don't work right, and this is a surefire way to torpedo the project. <A> Heat moves from hot to cold. <S> The more insulation you put in walls, roof lines, or attics, the more heat you push into the uninsulated ground. <S> It makes sense to insulate and isolate the ground from your inside environment even if it doesn't have floor heating. <S> Never install radiant without insulation, the insulation is more important than the radiant heating system.
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You absolutely need to insulate your slab on all sides that you don't want heat escaping (i.e. all but the top). Concrete is not an insulator.
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How can I remove the stopper from my sink? As you can see in the picture, in my infinite wisdom, I managed to block the kitchen sink with the stopper by placing it upside down in the sink, now I can't take the stopper out... Oops. Any suggestions on how I could take the stopper out, so I could use the sink again? The stopper has a vertical wall running through its center roughly 1 cm tall, I was thinking I could pull the darn thing out by latching onto this surface with a grip of some kind. I couldnt do this with my fingers alone. <Q> You need to use a pair of long nose pliers like this: There is also a good bet that an ordinary pair of pliers would do the trick as well: <A> Fill void with water and use a toilet plunger. <S> Failing that, you're going to need to drill it and insert a screw. <A> Nail clippers, for anyone reading this in future. <S> It just happened to me with water in the sink. <S> I spent an hour unsuccessfully trying to pry it out with a butter knife. <S> I couldn't find a plunger or pliers, so I used the best thing at my disposal and thankfully it worked. <S> Then press the clippers and pull up. <S> It pops out EZPZ. <A> happened to me yesterday with a mason jar lid. <S> I filled the other sink and quickly let the water out. <S> The pressure dislodged the obstruction. <A> If the stopper is flat and will not pop up, put a drop of super glue on the corner of a note card and glue the card to the stopper. <S> After a few seconds, lift the card and it will pull up the stopper. <S> I just did this and it worked like a charm. <S> When I pulled the card off the stopper, the tiny bit of paper residue was easily scraped off. <A> <A> It happened with me too, just within a week of arrival in the USA. <S> An online tip to use a butter knife on the side of the snapped-in-lid to release the vacuum worked for me. <S> Yes, first taking out the collected water in the sink to see the lid clearly was essential to this process.
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If there is not too much plumbing in the way, you could undo the drain pipe under the sink so that you can push the stopper up and out. Just open your clippers and rap them around the rubber ridge in the middle of your plug like you're going to cut a nail.
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What tools would I need to make a wood accent wall? Just moved into my first house (yikes!) and the wife and I would like to turn a wall in our living room into a wood accent wall. The plan is to use Tongue and groove Carsiding, stained to our liking, affixed to the wall. What I need to know is: Is this the best material for the job? What tools will I need? I current own: A dremel, a jig saw, a power drill, a 150psi compressor, and an orbital sander. I did a little research and I think that for attaching the siding to the studs in the wall, I will use a compressor driven brad nailer. For making cuts I will use a mitre saw. Is this a good idea? <Q> If you are fixing this to a wall with drywall on it, you will need 2 1/2" long finish nails to toenail it with, at the tongue edge. <S> If you are staining it, DO NOT face nail it. <S> If you are painting it, well nail it anywhere you please. <S> The wood you are planning to use will work very well, make sure it will give you the look you want by making a sample, say 3' square and place it so it will take on the light that come from windows, lights, <S> what have you. <S> This is done at the wall you are planning to cover. <S> The surrounding colors of the painted wall or stained cabinets that are nearby will play into the choice too. <S> The saw you linked to is a good saw, maybe more than what you need to do the job, It is made for heavier material but it will still cut small trim pieces too. <S> I have used another brand that was made like this <S> and it cut very small pieces too. <S> It will serve you well for many years to come if you get it. <S> Be mindful of its cut capacity, it looks like it has a capacity if 5 3/4" at the 90 degree setting, it will be much shorter on the 45 degree setting. <S> If you are making all square cuts, no problem. <S> I would consider getting an 8" slide compound saw, larger capacity, lightweight. <S> I have an old Hitachi 8" compound slide, I have owned for the past 15 years, worked it to death, replaced the armature once <S> , the brushes twice, did it myself, still doing a great job. <S> Here is a link to the modern replacement of what I have been using <A> For tools: I own a Porter Cable FN250B 16 gauge brad nailer <S> and it's great for this type of application. <S> It costs more but you will also get a range from 3/4 to 2 1/2 inches. <S> It is on Amazon for a $140 ($92 used). <S> I'd recommend selecting the material before buying the miter saw. <S> A ten inch saw is only going to handle up to six inch material, so if you buy wider material, you'll have regrets. <S> Best of luck! <A> You're going to need some way to rip material to width. <S> Better option would be a table or radial arm saw.
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Cheapest would be a hand-held circular saw, and a long straight-edge & clamps (or steady hand).
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How can I heat up my apartment to kill bedbugs in Southeast Asia? I have a bedbug problem in my apartment and I want to fix it myself with heat. (I do not want chemicals sprayed around.) Apparently, getting a room to 140 degrees for two hours is sufficient to kill the bugs, or 130 degrees for a few more hours. My first thought was to get a space heater for my room (I think the infestation, which is minor and new, is confined to my room, and that's where I'll start at least). However, I live in Cambodia, where "cold" means 80 degrees Fahrenheit, so I don't think heaters are exactly flying off the shelves here. My next thought was to put black trashbags over the windows (maybe 3 square meters) to absorb heat (my room gets direct sunlight during the day). Given that my room already gets to at least 100 degrees with the window open (it's the top floor apartment, which gets hot), do you think that trashbags + closed windows + closed door would be sufficient to heat it to at least 130? If not, what cheap electronics could I buy here that would emit enough heat to tip the scales? I know my desktop computer with the graphics card running used to pump out a bunch of heat, but obviously I want to get something more economical... Perhaps some powerful halogen lights? Candles under overturned clay pots? Would a hairdryer work, or would it turn off? Rice cooker filled with water? The good news is that the bugs have nowhere to run to, as the room is really well sealed. Also, it's heating up to 97 this week. Any other thoughts on how to heat the already-hot room? Edit There is almost nothing in the room. Just the heavy, wooden bedframe, mattress, and a small bedside table. No carpets- all tile. Oh, and an armoire made from thin, cheap wood. Also, turns out that bedbugs die at 113 degrees for 90 minutes (source: http://www.vdacs.virginia.gov/pdf/bb-heat1.pdf ). Which is why professionals heat it to 140, to ensure the heat gets everywhere. So I'm just looking for about 20 extra degrees. Another question- will my room get hotter with black trashbags over the closed windows, or without? <Q> The bigger issue is that if there are bedbugs in your apartment, the whole building is probably infested. <S> Your best bet is probably to isolate yourself from the bedbugs and set a CO2 bedbug trap . <S> Look into finding a new apartment. <A> I dont think you will be able to effectively heat the room to 140 deg. <S> The main problem is Insulation. <S> Escaped heat <S> : Your room is probably not insulated for the cold (as much as some other climates). <S> so internally heating your room may require a large amount of source heat since much will escape. <S> will naturally insulate. <S> so you would not need to get the room to 140, you would need to get to a temperature much higher to ensure that the minimum heat is 140. <S> That means that you would probably melt or set fire to some things in your room. <S> I would rather try to use localised steam to heat up specific things, one at a time thats the only way you could "cook" the critters. <S> Do you have access to a steamer? <S> I tried to answer the direct question about getting a room to that temperature safely, and cannot think of any ideas.. <A> The black garbage bags are a good idea, but wrong usage. <S> Put everything you can't clean in the garbage bags and put them in the sun outside. <S> There's more to getting rid of bedbugs than just this. <S> It's really very simple, get a toothpick and go around the apartment. <S> Anywhere the toothpick fits, check, clean, and seal.
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The bedbugs will die or scurry away looking for shade. Insulation from Room Components: items such as beds, wall cracks, under carpets, under cupboards.
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Would solar panels save money with electric baseboard heat? My house has electric heat, built in 1969. How can I save $. Are solar panels the way to go, or is there something better out there? I'm not sure which way to go . My electric bill is nuts . I have a fireplace and it helps, but it only heats one room. Are there any good solar panels on the market? I thought about geothermal but I would have to remove my electric registers to put in hot water registers and the cost I think would be too much. I also thought about an outside wood furnace but I have no duct work, more money? So I guess solar panels is the only way, right? Is there anything out there that would help? <Q> Entirely apart from the high cost of electric resistance heat, (that is, regardless of heat source) a 1969 house is almost certainly going to benefit from insulation upgrades and the boring best bang-for the buck stuff nobody ever thinks is "fancy enough" to go for first - caulking, weatherstripping, and generally reducing air leakage. <S> With the advent of cold-climate air-air heat pumps (mini-splits) <S> that is probably the best direction to look for electric heat replacement - 2.2-3.5 times as much heat from the same amount of electricity. <S> But start with a caulking gun and a can or 12 of spray foam, follow that with more insulation anywhere you can add it (usually the attic) - THEN think about replacing the heating units, since it's unlikely you'll actually get that done during this heating season, while you can be air-sealing in minutes and benefiting from it in minutes - not to mention it's cheap... <S> Solar electric panels generally don't make sense as a heat source. <S> Costs of the relevant types of panels are also rather different. <A> Electric resistance heat is expensive, no way around it. <S> Here are a couple of high-level things you can do to reduce your bill: <S> Common sense <S> : Stop using your fireplace (it's sucking more heat out of the house than it's adding. <S> Free. <S> Conservation <S> : Turn down the heat and wear more clothes. <S> Free. <S> Efficiency: Improve your house's level of air sealing and insulation so less heat is required because the heat takes longer to escape outside. <S> $100-10,000 upfront cost, depending on how far you want to go. <S> Cost-effectiveness: <S> Add additional, cheaper methods of heating, such as an air-source heat pump or a natural gas heater or furnace. <S> $1,000-10,000 upfront cost, depending on how fancy the equipment is. <A> Reducing drafts are the first place to start. <S> It's your best return on your investment. <S> (as others have said already) <S> The test to do is a " Blower door test ". <S> I did one myself with a fairly powerful fan, some plywood and a window. <S> I think I can get my hands on a thermal imaging camera from a friend, but so far I've been able to detect leaks fairly easily with my hands and face when it's sufficiently cold outside. <S> It's surprising where you will find leaks. <S> feel around doors and windows, but check baseboard, outlets <A> Adding a wood, wood pellet, or coal stove insert into the fireplace can significantly increase its heat output and potentially heat your whole house depending on size etc. <S> The insert basically converts the fireplace (inefficient) into a unit that can actually generate 50k btu/hr or more into the home. <S> A unit with a blower to circulate the heated air would be best. <S> $4K should cover the install. <A> Solar panels may make sense, but they will make exactly as much sense no matter whether you're using the power for heat, to run the rest of your household, to sell power back to the grid, or a combination of those. <S> As others have said, start with air-sealing and improving insulation. <S> Your power company may offer free on-site surveys and some subsidized pricing or rebates; check that out. <S> Longer term, I agree that fossil fuels or biodiesel are likely to be cheaper than electric unless you go with high-efficiency heat pumps and thermal well energy storage... and even then I'm not sure it's cost effective. <A> Solar electric can work, but you have to site the solar panels in the correct location. <S> I recommend the Mojave Desert. <S> " <S> oh, but I will have such high resistance losses hauling the power thousands of miles to my home!" <S> No, the power only needs to make it to L.A. and their hungry market. <S> Solar is peaking power, and they pay top dollar for that, especially when it's green. <S> You sell the power there. <S> Then you ship the money to your house, which is basically zero loss, and use it to buy local power at low winter rates.
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Direct collection of heat from the sun is far more efficient than collecting a little bit of the suns energy as electricity and then using that for heat.
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How can I clean water stains off my shower stall? It is all glass (transparent) but has become translucent because of salt stains (slightly hard water). What is the best way to clean without using harsh chemicals? My toddler is allergic to harsh chemicals like Ammonia. <Q> Ammonia is not the right chemical anyway. <S> Try vinegar; if that's too much of a chemical for you, get out a razor blade and start scraping. <S> Or rinse after using it.... <S> Once you have it clean, use a squeegee to remove any water from it before it dries after each use to keep it clean. <A> This really depends on the exact cause of your water issues. <S> When I buy a house with a lot of build up on the glass I try the following steps in pretty much this order: <S> Stick paper towels on door. <S> Note that when using vinegar you can ruin nearby towels/clothing. <S> Hot vinegar/ <S> Dawn/baking soda paste. <S> Rub it on door, let sit for 10-15 minutes and hit it with a heavy pad. <S> If the glass is flat I would suggest a few SOS pads. <S> Lemon juice. <S> The acids in lemon juice tends to break down the things vinegar doesn't. <S> Then we are on to CLR and whatever we find at store. <S> However if this is an ongoing issue at your house I suggest using an auto glass sealant like RainX so that the buildup is much much slower. <A> Couple things I have used that work well and are fairly mild are Barkeeper's Friend Soft Cleanser and <S> Simple Green Clean Building Concentrated Bathroom Cleanser along with a blue scotch sponge. <S> It's important to leave either cleaner on the glass for a while before you start scrubbing to let it work. <S> The more you leave it on the easier it is to clean. <S> Neither one has a very strong scent to it. <S> If you keep the window open and rinse everything well when you're done <S> I don't see how that could be an issue <S> but I'm not a doctor. <S> Barkeeper's friend is oxalic acid and citric acid. <S> MSDS lists it as a moderate health hazard. <S> It's very good at getting rid of heavy buildup. <S> Once you get it clean the easiest way to to keep it clean <S> is to squeegee the glass after every shower. <S> 0 chemicals. <S> The Clean Building Bathroom Cleaner is from a line specifically developed to be safer. <S> The MSDS lists it as a slight health hazard. <S> Dwell time is very important for this one. <S> Spray it on and let it sit on the glass for a good 15-30 minutes <S> then scrub lightly with a blue scrub sponge. <S> Be careful cleaning the glass, they do break. <S> If your build up is very bad you may need to let it sit on the glass longer and come back and respray every so often to keep it wet. <S> May need multiple cleanings but once you get it clean <S> it's easier if you clean it regularly. <S> I've been using the Clean Building for a while now because it works well for me and you only mix about 1oz or so per spray bottle <S> so it's very cheap in the long run. <A> You can also try a shot of vinegar concentrate poured into a small bowl with water. <A> If you are sure it is hard water deposits- CLR. <S> Close the door and keep your sensitive child (really, all kids) out. <S> Rinse and repeat ad nauseum... then ventilate.
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If it is soap film (and it might be)- cleanser with phosphoric acid. Hot vinegar on paper towels.
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What could cause a gas fireplace to come on by itself? My natural gas fireplace has a mind of it's own. It has been working properly until today--it decided to come on by itself It has been cold (15 degrees) here in SC--could this be the problem?? The pilot remains on and seems to be find. My service man came and disconnected the control valve from it's electrical source and the fireplace remained on--strange at best. Finally disconnected all wires to control valve and fireplace went off. <Q> Some gas fireplaces with electric start have a thermopile that generates enough electricity to keep the valve open, even if you disconnect the mains electricity. <S> So if the fireplace was on already and you disconnect the main power, I would expect the fire to stay on. <S> However, starting by itself is not a good thing. <S> I would look at two components: the control board the the thermopile and solenoid connect to, or the remote control receiver. <S> If you do have a remote control receiver, it's easy to eliminate that as the problem because you can just disconnect it. <S> Otherwise, just replace the control board. <A> On most fireplaces I've seen (non-electronic start), a thermocouple provides enough power, along with the initial press/hold of the solenoid, to keep the solenoid open for the pilot light to remain lit. <S> There is also a thermopile that provides enough power to open/close the solenoid that controls the main burners (on it's own, without requiring you to first manually hold the solenoid in place like the pilot). <S> A switch between the thermopile (Tp) and Thermostat (Th) contacts on the valve is what opens/closes the solenoid. <S> So if the fireplace is stuck on, I would think it's one of two things: <S> You could test this by checking for voltage across the solenoid when the switch is off. <S> The solenoid is stuck open. <S> Similar to #1, if there is no voltage, <S> but it is open, <S> it's likely stuck. <A> Mine just started on its own while I was using a dell laptop <S> i <S> n <S> the room. <S> I could not shut it off with the remote control, had to close the gas valve. <S> Glad I was home. <S> This is a "Sure heat" savanna, purchased thru home depot a few years ago. <S> Have problems every year, must replace the batteries very often, but never new it could come on by itself. <S> May tear it out and replace, or just use manually. <A> My house was either hit by lightning or lightning struck very close by. <S> It was the loudest explosion I have ever heard in my life. <S> It was then pitch black and all power was out in the area. <S> It is late summer. <S> Downstairs <S> some items on the mantle were knocked to the floor. <S> The fireplace was blazing and it must have been 90 degrees downstairs. <S> The lightning actually ignited the gas fireplace?
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There is a short in the controller and power is always being provided to the solenoid.
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Furnace running.Shuting off for a few mins then starting again.Continued process Why would my furnace run it's cycle, shut down and then start up again a few minutes later. Continuing this cycle all night?? Thanks <Q> If the home is maintaining the temperature set on the thermostat (at least AT the thermostat) <S> then it's probable that you are near, but not quite at, "design load" for the furnace. <S> At design load, the furnace runs 100% of the time to keep up with heat loss in the house and maintain temperature - if it gets colder than that outside (below the "design temperature"), the house gets colder than set. <S> At anything less than design load, the furnace runs a fraction of the time, and is off a fraction of the time. <S> The closer the outside temperature is to "design temperature" the longer the run time and shorter the off time. <S> As it gets warmer outside, the off time increases and the run time gets shorter. <S> Anything that makes the house lose heat faster raises the effective design temperature (doesn't change what temperature was assumed to design it, but alters the actual one.) <S> Anything that makes the house lose heat slower lowers the effective design temperature <S> (doesn't change what temperature was assumed to design it, but alters the actual one.) <A> As Ecnerwal said, your furnace cannot keep up with heating your home. <S> This could be caused by a number of things. <S> Your furnace itself is inadequate and cannot keep up with the load. <S> The rating in BTUs is not high enough. <S> There are inefficiencies in your home which is causing the furnace to work harder than it was designed to. <S> The furnace requires service. <S> Insulation in your home may be inadequate. <S> There could be air leaks and drafts caused by old windows, doors, etc. <S> Too many leaks in the duct work are causing heat loss. <S> You are trying to maintain a temperature that is too high for the furnace to handle. <S> There are a number of services available that will come into your home and do an energy audit. <S> They will be able to figure out what issues you have in your home. <S> They will do tests like the blower door test to determine how many air leaks you have. <S> They also have special tools such as thermal cameras that can see where the heat loss is. <S> They will also inspect your insulation to see if it meets code. <S> I would also recommend that you have a technician come in and service your heating equipment. <A> Thank you all for your replies. <S> The issue was simple. <S> My filters were clogged. <S> First thing I should have looked at. <S> Obviously with the dust build up, not enough cool air was coming in to transfer
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If the house is NOT maintaining the set temperature AND the furnace is shutting off regularly, something may be in need of maintenance/adjustment.
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What type of subfloor should be used for Engineered hardwood flooring installed on grade concrete slab? I would like to install engineered hardwood flooring over a concrete slab which is on grade. It is the first floor of the house, there is no basement and the house was built in the 1990's. I have seen vapor barrier sheets, DRIcore vapor barrie/plywood tiles, as well as other methods used underneath the engineered hardwood. Would it make sense to seal the concrete slab and then place DRIcore as well as a foam underlayment down below the flooring? Or would DRIcore or a vapor barrier with an underlayment be enough? Would it be recommended to lay the floor floating or glued down? Or if using the DRIcore, could the flooring be stapled down? I would appreciate all advice! Thank you! I am in NYC, not in a flood zone and the backyard and front driveway are all properly graded away from the house. There doesn't seem to be any evidence of flooding or water damage. The floor is currently tiled. But I think that was an aethetic thing, as the former owner tiled every room of the house including the second floor. <Q> I have had 3/4" hardwood floors placed on Dricore on 2 different jobs. <S> One below grade with a foundation drain system the company I worked for installed. <S> Top of the line, no holds barred water control system. <S> The floor went down <S> a is still performing beautifully. <S> 1 1/2" staples were used so they did not go through the plywood so far to poke holes in the dimple mat. <S> This was tested on a piece to insure this would not happen before the flooring was laid. <S> The other floor was done with wide plank flooring, 5 years ago still working great to this day too. <S> So you would not be going wrong if you went with Dricore. <S> I placed this on the concrete without a vapor barrier in either case, but the floor was sealed. <S> You may need to check what the staples will do with your thinner engineered flooring. <S> Also, you MAY be able to direct glue the flooring to the concrete slab since it is above grade. <S> Since it is a newer home there should be a below slab vapor barrier. <S> Two good conditions to have, so you don't get moisture rising through the slab. <A> You don't need to seal the concrete, just be sure it has cured for the correct amount of time. <S> If you are floating the engineered hardwood you will need at least a basic underlay that offers moisture barrier and cushioning. <S> You can also go with an underlay that offers some temperature insulation as some people find floors installed directly over concrete to be a little cold. <S> If you glue down you will just need to use an adhesive that has a vapor barrier built into the formula. <S> Floating is the easiest method but gluing down will provide better sound and a more solid feeling underfoot. <S> If you want to staple you will need to lay a full 3/4" plywood sub floor on top of the concrete. <S> Most warranties will only be valid if it is installed over the proper sub floor and DRICore will not be strong enough to hold the staples. <S> For more information you can take a look at the BuildDirect blog at the link below: https://www.builddirect.com/blog/how-do-i-install-engineered-hardwood-floors/ <A> If your concrete slab already has poly sheeting under it (it probably does if it was poured in the 90s), you don't need to worry about adding a dedicated vapor barrier. <S> So regardless, don't worry about "sealing" the concrete. <S> Anyway, most closed-cell foam engineered flooring underlayments already constitute a vapor barrier, and that's probably okay even if there's poly under the slab. <S> The problem with having a double vapor barrier situation is that if the thing between them ever gets wet, it doesn't have an easy drying path. <S> But concrete is not moisture-sensitive, so there's no humongous problem with it having a lot of moisture in it and drying slowly the way we would freak out about encasing a sheet of OSB between two vapor barriers and letting it get wet. <S> So the foam-underlayment-with-a-floating-floor-engineered-hardwood system would be the most economical choice here. <S> If you wanted to have a really bulletproof system, DRICore with real 3/4" hardwood over it is very nice. <S> But it'll raise the floor 1 1/2 inches.
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This protects the floor in case the concrete sweats over time.
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How can I prevent my furnace and A/C from slamming doors? What specifics will I need to collect to figure out if our furnace and A/C are sucking too much at the source/intake? I don't know the proper terminology for these things, do forgive me for any errors here. We are in a 1,000 sq ft home. The air intake for the furnace and A/C is in our hallway near our bathroom and two bedroom doors. Any time the thermostat turns on, any doors that are within a foot or so of being closed are sucked closed, hard. Is there a way to determine if our furnace and A/C are sucking more in than it should? Is there even a way to turn the volume of air down somehow? Also, most likely contributing to quite a bit of our home energy cost is a whole house attic fantasy we no longer use mounted in the hallway right next to the furnace and A/C intake. Is it a problem having this whole house fan still installed? The louvers don't actually open and close when the thermostat turns on, but I'm sure it sucks some air from the attic. <Q> This is common in HVAC systems with a single central return. <S> My system does this too. <S> The only practical way around it is to have a balanced system with per-room returns sized the same as the supply registers on those rooms. <S> There are a couple of things you can do about it. <S> Or you could just keep the doors wide open. <S> As for the whole-house fan, remove it, seal up the hole, drywall the ceiling, and pile insulation over the top to the level of the rest of the insulation on your attic floor. <A> How high are the bottom of the doors off the floor? <A> Check the CFM rating of your blower unit against the square footage of your home, and the capacity of the furnace/AC units. <S> It could be too high and in need of adjustment or replacement with a lower CFM unit (contact an HVAC pro if you aren't confident in making this assessment yourself.) <S> Also, check that you have the right air filter in place ahead of the blower unit in the return duct, since a missing or too small filter could cause the blower to run faster than designed. <S> To keep a comfortable temperature in a living space, it is rarely necessary to move so much air that doors slam shut. <S> And what happens after the doors slam? <S> it's butt off (i.e. wasting energy) trying to move air against a significant restriction. <S> If that all checks out, consider partly closing the dampers (either on the supply duct or on the vent in the room) for the affected rooms, since air can only be "sucked" from rooms where it is being significantly supplied. <S> Lastly, I second the comment on checking/changing the door gaps. <S> If the home was built with hardwood and is now decked out in plush carpet, the door spacing is probably too small or nonexistent. <S> You need a 1" to 1 1/2" door gap to allow rooms to properly heat <S> /cool if the doors are closed.
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The airflow is restricted so the blower unit is either dumping a lot more heated/cooled air in other parts of the home, or it's working It's simply the nature of a central-return system. Another thing that might help is to replace your doors with heavier ones on less-well-lubricated hinges. you may be able to solve your problem by cutting bottom off of doors 1 1/2" max. One is to spend hundreds to thousands of dollars necessary to re-do your house's return ducting to put a dedicated return in every room.
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What materials to use replacing a water damaged bathroom ceiling? I had a leaky roof that caused half the bathroom ceiling to come down. The roof is now fixed. I know I have to remove the rest of the ceiling as well, and dry it out before replacing, and possibly do some mold remediation. My question is, what do I replace the ceiling with? Regular gypsum board or is there a special something that needs to go up since it is a bathroom? Steps would be appreciated. :) Thanks! <Q> Do you want to have to replace it again if there's ever another leak? <S> If yes, then use another inexpensive paper-and-gypsum-based product, such as drywall, green board, etc. <S> If no, then use cementboard. <S> Maybe overkill, but for a small bathroom the uncharge won't be more than $40 and that stuff can get wet till the cows come home and not complain about it! <S> Once it's up, you can texture it, skim coat it, paint it, or whatever you were going to do to the drywall that you were considering. <A> A lot of people use mold-resistant drywall in bathrooms. <S> This is normally blue or green and costs a few extra dollars at the hardware store. <A> Any answers to this question will be heavily opinion-based. <S> Here's mine. <S> An exception would be a very low ceiling over a shower that's often splashed. <A> Note that the use of most greenboard or moisture board on ceilings requires 12" OC joists according to manufacturer standards. <S> They for the most part are not a good material for ceilings and in my opinion offer nothing that drywall doesn't. <S> Your materials for above shower are concrete board or regular drywall. <S> Unless you are building an enclosed shower or sauna than I would stick with drywall. <S> For moisture purposes greenboard does not matter, in fact with minimal maintenance and prep drywall vs. concrete doesn't matter either. <S> In bathrooms we have <S> at least two generous coats of an oil based primer go on the walls and ceilings. <S> This is far more effective at keeping out mold from drywall/whatever. <S> Top that with a mold resistant paint <S> and you would only have surface mold if you did a really poor job of ventilating. <S> So your answer is drywall, oil, oil, paint.
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Assuming a good roof and adequate bathroom ventilation, there's no reason to use anything other than standard drywall, properly sealed and painted.
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What is this bathroom basin tap connection and can I replace it myself? A few months back I had a problem with the cold tap in my upstairs bathroom — no water would come out after turning it on. I also noticed that the flexible tap hose underneath the basin was damp and sometimes dripping a little bit. So I got a plumber out who fixed the lack of water problem by replacing the tap thread. I rather assumed that that was also the cause of the flexible tap hose dampness, but I was wrong. Then I noticed that there was a tiny gap where the tap wasn't 100% over the hole, so I loosened the back nut and repositioned it to close off the hole. Unfortunately that didn't solve the hose dampness/dripping problem. So now I'm thinking that the problem is perhaps due to the flexible hose being past its best. So I'd like to change the hose. As a DIY/plumbing newbie, I don't recognize the connection between the hose and the plastic piping. At first I thought it was a standard braided hose, but then when I unscrewed the nut, the thread of the hose is connected to what looks a bit like a compression olive. Is anyone familiar with the connection? And would a reasonably handy but inexperienced DIYer be wise to fix it himself, or is this a job for a pro? EDIT: To assist with Duncan's helpful answer, I'm adding two images: <Q> First find out were leak is coming from. <S> I like to use toilet paper <S> it shows very little trace of water. <S> Water could be splashing through hole you pointed out. <S> Top hose connection could need new washer. <S> You can steal one from hose you have that doesn't fit. <A> You can do it! <S> That looks like a flare fitting to me. <S> What is the grey "T" its connected to? <S> You may be able to get rid of that and use a regular pipe T and gain space to eliminate the kink. <S> OK you guys apparently call them (flare fittings) cone fittings. <A> What looks like a compression olive is, in fact, a compression olive. <S> The flexible hose has a compression fitting, therefore (even when using plastic pipe) you need a compression olive for watertightness. <S> As long as the plastic pipe also has a plastic insert in the end, your photo shows a perfectly normal connection. <S> However, it is not clear from the photos that the leak is due to the flexible hose. <S> The olive looks like it may be a bit knackered (though this may just be the quality of the photo), which may be the cause of the leak. <S> I'm guessing though, as I can't tell from the photo were the leak is located.
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If you just want to replace the braided hose unscrew it from the top and take it to your plumbing supply place and ask them for a new one. The replacement is definitely within the realms of the DIY plumber (it's the sort of thing I'd do).
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Bamboo floors with cats and dogs We are purchasing a place and one of the things we are looking at doing is replacing the carpet downstairs with something more wood like. I say wood like because of pets and the damage they can do to hardwood floors. We had been considering laminate floors but I've been reading about bamboo and how it can be highly durable too. So would a bamboo floor with a high Janka rating hold up well to pets or should we stick with laminate flooring? Thanks <Q> This is really about your expectations of the flooring. <S> If you are more worried about looks then you need to go with a solid hardwood. <S> Bamboo is a very hard wood and will last many pets - when we are talking about surface damage. <S> The "look" of the floor will be dependent on the wood rating and bamboo <S> is very hard (oak would be fine too), <S> the grain of the wood (wood with more character hides things better and flat woods show), and the color - a light color will hide scratches. <S> Your other option is pure vinyl/rubber laminates. <S> Here is something that I have installed - also <S> Home Depot has a line of planking (and some look like porcelain tile) that I have used. <S> Both were great - installed easy and pure rubber. <S> Have used them in many many basements. <S> This won't give you the exact feel of hardwood <S> but they look great and can be FULLY cleaned. <S> So it really comes down to the upkeep you want to do, how truly clean you want everything, and the look/style you are going for. <A> Do not install a laminate floor with pets. <S> Barf, urine etc. will swell the edges of most laminates. <S> Even using mops that are too wet will swell the edges of the flooring. <S> Your best bet will be with bamboo or the like. <S> Talk about this with your installer, or if you are buying directly, check with the supplier what their warranty covers. <S> You may find different forums online about what people installed and how it fared with pets. <A> I've never seen an oak floor with high-heel divots like I've seen in almost every other type of wood flooring. <S> Bamboo is the only wood on this list that has the caveat: (represents one species) -do <S> your homework on the species and the supplier.
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However scratching will eventually breach the stain/poly finish - and then when they pee/poop that will get in the wood and it is basically never come out. IMO, anything other than oak is only for esthetics (unless you can afford ironwood ). So this depends how well you upkeep the floors and how many accidents you have.
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