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What is the metal I have in my wall? I've been trying to mount a TV on my wall, and have encoutnered a problem locating and drilling into studs. I used a stud detector to look for studs in my wall, and proceeded to drill. Instead, I have just hit a metal plate. I did some searching and reading, and it does not appear that the metal is a metal stud. I say this, because I can drill above or below where I hit the metal, and hit nothing. If I drill to the side I also hit nothing. The metal objects seem to be 16" apart. Whatever the material is, is very tough. I was reasonably certain it was not a protective plate, so so applied some pressure to drill through, but was unable to even get close. I can see where I drilled on to the metal, and it barely left a scratch. I don't have the experience to cut open and replace a section of my drywall, and so would prefer to avoid that if possible. I've attached a photo of my wall. I tried to get FiOS installed which was a problem because of the metal I have in my walls, although the technician was not more specific. What would this metal be that I can drill above, below and to either side of it? edit: not sure if relevant, but the entire door frame and door are metal also. edit2: the metal does not go in a straight line from top to bottom, but is rather on a diagonal slant. There is no wood to be found anywhere surrounding the metal. edit3: I managed to take a picture inside the wall, by putting a phone through the hole to feed speakerwire. It looks like something is bolted in..not sure if this helps to identify what is there though. <Q> What makes you reasonably certain <S> it's not a protective plate? <S> I ask because this is almost by definition what a protective plate does. <S> This is likely protecting an electrical cable. <S> This is an important safety measure, to keep you from drilling or nailing into a live electrical cable. <S> for example: <A> A few things that you stated stand out. <S> One, you are on a third floor apartment. <S> Two <S> you stated the wall is between two rooms. <S> Three, the metal runs at an angle. <S> Some contractors place rolled-edge wall bracing beams that run diagonal from the top to the bottom of internal walls. <S> I could not find an image of a commercial (as used in apartments)version of it but for residential, something like this: <S> http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/fasteners/connectors-reinforcements/miscellaneous/wall-braces/rolled-edge-wall-bracing-1-3-8-x-11-4/p-1343658-c-8877.htm <S> should give you a pretty good idea. <S> The residential version is usually placed between wall studs in a diagonal groove but for apartments no studs of wood or metal are required. <S> The fact it is very difficult to drill through tells me its a rolled-edge wall bracing. <S> EDIT: <S> After re-examining the picture it appears the side you are trying to attach your TV to is on the OPPOSITE side of the studs. <S> Which means it is the same as used in residential framing and there are slots cut for the wall bracing to fit into the studs. <S> So the link to menards.com <S> I added would be accurate. <S> It's possible there may just be a large internal gap between the wall you are on and the studs. <S> You may try to measure 16" O.C. from the edge of the wall and use an awl or probe to find the studs. <A> From your description, it seems unlikely, but the image you posted liiks like it is BX cable <A> I have recently encountered the same problem, and realised it's fire hazard deterrent flashing, and very difficult to drill through. <S> A standard steel drill bit will take care of it. <S> £2.50 at local hardware store. <A> Looks to me like plumbing strap .
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When you run wires to outlets or switches, it's good practice (and required by code in many places) that you place protective plates on the wooden studs where electrical cable has been ran through it. I would assume if you went to the other side of the wall you would find studs there.
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Did I ruin my bathroom faucet during descaling? I wanted to descale my bathroom faucet (for taking showers), so I put some vinegar on a tissue and put it on the faucet. I left it for 7-8 hours and when I wake up my faucet looks like this: It has indeed been descaled, but note how the color has vanished on the right part that controls the cold water. How is it possible that vinegar can do that? I think it is made of chrome, I thought vinegar should be OK for that? <Q> Im am no expert in this topic, But I do clean metals often. <S> I can only say what I would try. <S> Most of the time the answer is just to polish and clean manually. <S> From what I can see, you have relatively hard water, and you tried to clean mineral deposits off the faucet. <S> I would try now to clean the excess deposits manually. <S> what you don't want to do is damage the chrome surface <S> so steer clear from any sand papers or rough pads <S> you should only use sponge or cloth. <S> Also recommended is to use some toothpaste as your abrasive additive, it will have just enough grit to get the chrome clean. <S> Try to find a long thin piece of cloth, put a dab of toothpaste and wrap the cloth around the tap, then pull both ends one at a time to make a diy polisher. <S> If you could get one person to "shank" the cloth (pull-pull motion) while you use the back of a spoon to press the cloth harder against the tap (at a point) you will get some really good polish action going. <A> First of all, real "chrome" finishes are actually nickel. <S> Secondly it is not a nickel finish, it is some kind of plastic or cheap metal engineered to look like nickel. <S> Buffing with scotch brite might make the color more uniform, but the mirror look is probably gone forever. <A> I think you have a "chrome" film over the faucet. <S> I have fixed shower heads with auto body primer (spray paint), spray paint for the finish, and then a gloss coat. <S> This being touched a lot you can try painting it but replacement is probably the better option - and never buy any plumbing fixtures that aren't a solid metal.
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The Vinegar was the correct application, however you are left with some residual mineral deposit which was not removed by the acid wash (vinegar) It looks like the film has corroded badly.
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wiring for an oldish house I have 4 wires (red,black,bare,white) from the ceiling. From my new light fixture I have 3 wires (black,green,white). Which two switches for the light. I wired it black and red to black from fixture, white to white, and green to bare. And my light will not turn off. What did I do wrong? Power is good, checked with a fluke meter. <Q> Both the black and red are likely ungrounded (hot) conductors. <S> However, one or both of them are likely switched. <S> That is, one or both of them are energized only when a switch is closed. <S> Test the wires with your meter, and determine which one is controlled by the switch. <S> Cap the other wire off, and tuck it safely away inside the box. <A> Yup, I figured it out 10 minutes later. <S> Single red to black from fixture, capped the blacks. <S> All good, thanks!!! <A> Red should be switched power and you would cap off the black coming from the ceiling. <A> It sounds like a "three way" switch. <S> There are two switches, one lamp and 14-3 cable with 3 conductors and a ground. <S> The switches are wired do both must be on or off for the light to work. <S> This is hard to explain in words. <S> And careful, the white wires are hot in this arrangement.
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Once you figure that out, connect only that wire to the black wire on the fixture. Look up three way switch wiring for examples.
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Best tools for woodwork project I'm starting a project where I need to cut a 114mm diameter, 33mm deep hole into a piece of wood. My plan is to keep the circular piece, then to sand it. My question is, what would be the best piece of equipment to use in order to make a clean. straight cut? <Q> This can probably be done with 4.5" hole saw which is pretty close to your dimensions. <S> I assume what you want is the disk, not the hole. <S> A circular disk can also be cut with a scroll saw. <S> Another tool is an adjustable circle cutter or fly cutter of which there are few different types. <A> While a 4 1/2 inch hole saw will do the trick it would be an expensive investment if this is a one time project. <S> The hole saw will leave a center hole from the pilot drill. <S> You may be able to limit this to one side of the disk if you removed the pilot drill just prior to finishing the cut. <S> You will also need a hefty drill with a 1/2 inch chuck. <S> If you must use a single full thickness board then as @Tyler Durden suggested a scroll saw. <A> I think you can do this with a router. <S> Create a template in some thin material using one of the methods above. <S> Hole saw, circle cutter, jigsaw, even a hand saw, etc. <S> Sand it until it is as perfect as you can get it. <S> Then somehow tack it down to your 33mm stock (nails or screws), and use a flush cutting router bit with pilot bearing to cut the thick stock. <S> Here are some router bits: <S> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html See number 7805, for example.
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A circle can also be cut using a mill (or lathe) with a milling cutter in combination with a rotary table (or divider). I would suggest either using 2 thinner boards and gluing them together prior to sanding that way you can use an relatively inexpensive jigsaw or try it with a quality jigsaw going slowly with a long blade.
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Gas Dryer suddenly trips any GFCI Outlet immediately upon being plugged in, but works fine in non GFCI I have a Maytag Centennial gas clothes dryer in my laundry room. It is connected to a non-gfci outlet which is downstream of another outlet with built in gfci. It has been connected like this and working fine since I bought the house two months ago, and presumably has always been connected to this outlet for the 15 years that house has existed. Tonight we discovered the GFCI outlet tripped and wouldn't stay reset and upon further investigation determined that without the dryer plugged in, everything worked ok but as soon as the dryer was plugged in (even though not turned on), the gfci immediately tripped. If I connect the dryer (via an extension cord), to a GFCI outlet in my kitchen (different circuit), it also trips that one, but if I connect it to a non-GFCI outlet it doesn't trip the breaker and runs fine. My research on line has brought up posts saying the gas dryers should not be plugged into GFCI outlets at all as they may spuriously trip them, but this dryer has been working in this configuration for 15 years, so I'm guessing something has recently gone wrong with it in the past two days since we used it last. My question is whether I should be looking into getting a non-gfci outlet installed for the dryer or if I should be looking to get the dryer repaired, and if so is there anything I should look for in the dryer myself rather than call service. <Q> GFCI is new; dryer is old. <S> I doubt the "fluctuating current" argument: a washer, with its different cycle starts/stops, is going to generate more "fluctuating current" events than a gas dryer. <S> (Also the dryer is off when I plug it in.) <S> I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the dryer, removing all lint, and brushing dust off of all components. <S> Still trips when plugged in. <S> So I disconnected/isolated hot in the dryer's control panel: still tripped when plugged in. <S> Then I also disconnected/isolated neutral in the dryer control panel: still tripped! <S> New test: without the dryer, ran a test lead from ground in the outlet to the gas pipe connection: trip! <S> Measured a small AC voltage (30mV) between outlet ground and gas pipe. <S> Next step (in this case) is to talk to some people about grounding requirements for gas supply pipes. <A> The clue here is that the GFCI trips when the dryer is off . <S> (I'd want to make sure that it's really <S> off-- not even the timer motor running). <S> If this dryer has electronic controls, it's a little more complicated, as the electronics are always "on" even when the dryer is "off". <S> More on that in a moment. <S> Appliances can trip GFCIs by generating certain kinds of electrical noise, particularly "high harmonics" typical of variable-speed motors. <S> Your problem is happening when the dryer is off , however. <S> That strongly suggests that there really is a ground fault: some leakage path from the live ("hot") wire to ground. <S> It doesn't have to be much of a leak... <S> a GFCI will detect just a few milliamps of leakage current... but any new short would be concerning, because of its potential to get worse. <S> If this dryer has electronic controls: this may just be a weak capacitor in the electronics' power supply allowing more noise on the line; much less likely to be a ground fault (or safety hazard). <S> A technician might approach this either with a dedicated ground fault tester, or by selectively disconnecting components in the dryer to to find the leakage path. <A> While it seems counter to logic, two appliance repair instructors told the tech working on the same issue at my house (a dryer that trips GFCI but not non-GFCI outlets) that a dryer should NOT be plugged in to a GFCI outlet. <S> Their explanation was that the amp fluctuations drawn by the dryer would cause the GFCI to trip. <S> The one GFCI outlet actually broke and was totally dead. <S> Now, your assumption that the dryer was that way prior to you using it could be wrong. <S> It is possible a person installed the GFCI outlet prior to move out in an attempt to be code compliant (thinking it was the right thing to do) to pass inspection or that the dryer had a ground defeating adapter plugged in but that "secret" was undone when you moved in. <S> So while this seems counter to logic, I am now in the camp that dryers should not be plugged in to GFCI outlets.
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Same problem here: plugging in gas dryer, with dryer off, immediately trips GFCI. I have a garage door opener that started causing this problem after the GFCI breaker it was connected to was replaced: the new breaker was more sensitive.
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What could be causing a rumbling noise in our house? We bought our home in Dec. 2014, ten year old house. It started making a rumbling noises, as though it was thundering outside, and it seems to happen in the evening. However, sometimes during the day. We had the entire heating and air system checked out. We also just had a new 80 gallon water heater installed in February 2015. We just can't seem to figure out what is causing this noise? <Q> I recently experienced the same issue. <S> We just found out what it was and had it fixed. <S> Apparently, there is a pipe that sticks out of the house from the HVAC system underneath the house that releases water that is formed during the cooling and evaporation process. <S> We found out we needed to have the trap (device that collects debris) checked and cleaned annually. <S> Because the trap was full of debris, water couldn’t leak out of the HVAC system and out the pipe causing the build up of pressure in the HVAC system (cause of the rumbling noise underneath the house). <S> Eventually what happened was, our central air unit had pressure problem and could barely pumped out any AC. <S> Once we had the trap cleaned, ever thing started to work again and the noise went away. <A> Sometimes it is air buildup in the water pipes, especially if your home uses hot water (radiant) heating system. <S> Over time these air pockets accumulate and some sections of the pipes become water-less. <S> When a gush of water is pushed into these "air" area, especially in vertical pipes, the water just falls right to the bottom like a hammer and creating these banging/rumbling noises. <S> Once you solve the air-in-system problem, everything will be quiet. <A> No, it's the husband & not the dog, can you cut back on the broccoli for once! <S> I'd vote on it being the Water Heater <S> & hopefully you're still alive, but it may need a new or non-defective nor damaged T&P valve... <S> the water temperature may be set at maximum & this is very bad. <A> I think you're going to have to track this down yourself. <S> It could be anything from your heating system to train/truck noise. <S> (In my case it's traffic, pkanes, and a heating-system mounting bracket <S> thatught too be replaced with a noise-isiolating unit.)
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The air vents that are supposed to allow air in the heating system to escape are not working correctly, so there are pockets of air trapped throughout the piping system.
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How do I wire a light switch and outlet in the same box? I have a single gang box in a bathroom with a GFCI outlet. I'd like to replace it with a 2-gang box containing a GFCI outlet and a light switch for the vanity light. The outlet will have both receptacles live (not switched). The vanity light currently is not switched; it is controlled by a pull-chain on the light itself. We're going to replace it with a non-pull-chain type of light and we want a switch where the kids can reach. It'll be nice not to have to explain to our guests how to use our bathroom, too. I did some poking around and it looks like the vanity light is fed from a different branch from the receptacle. One plan is to pigtail the switch and gfci outlet onto the supply line, and then take the output of the switch out of the box up to the vanity light. Another way to do it would be to run a switch loop from the lighting fixture down into the 2-gang. The gfci receptacle would be wired the same as it is now, and the switch would be on the switch loop. Is one of these the correct way to do it? If not, how should I wire this? <Q> Since your light is on a different circuit than the outlet, you'll need to run a switch loop from the light to the 2-gang box using <S> 14/3 <S> (yes 3) cable, with black as the hot, red as the switched hot, white as a spare neutral, and the bare or green wire as well, the ground (aka EGC) :) <S> In the light box, you'll take the black that currently goes to the fixture hot and connect it to the black of the switch loop instead; the fixture hot then gets wired to the red wire of the switch loop. <S> The switch loop white and green wires get wired into the existing white and green wires coming into the box. <S> After transposing the existing GFCI from the old 1 gang box into the new 2 gang box, you'll want to leave it alone from here on out. <S> To wire up the switch, you connect the brass screws to the black and red wires, the green screw to the EGC, and simply wirenut off (i.e. put a wirenut on the exposed end of) <S> the neutral on the switch loop -- it's there for future use by <S> say a motion sensor or lit switch as per 404.2(C) <S> (neutrals are called 'grounded conductors' in the NEC, btw, if you're a Code newbie and scratching your head at this :): C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. <S> The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general- purpose branch circuit for other than the following: (4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom <A> Make two whips from the hot one for the outlet and pne for the switch. <S> Just splice the neutrals together with only one whip since the light switch doesnt need a neutral. <S> Heres a diagram i drew <A> The outlet itself, since you want it unswitched, is wired as normal. <S> On the other side of the outlet, where you'd either chain to another or add something additional, is where you'd link the light in. <S> The "out" on the switch would go to the light fixture. <S> For the neutral, you'd take the white coming off the outlet and link it up with the fixture. <S> Make sure to connect ground if there. <S> If you did the switch before the outlet, both would then be switched. <S> I did the same thing last year. <S> Sorry to be lazy <S> but I found via Googling your topic, some folks had done line drawings that were helpful. <S> Why I didn't link to one is that depending on your experience, one might be better than the other.
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So, the hot coming off the outlet, you'd wire up to the in on the light switch. You have the right idea.
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Is this "ice damming"? The north-north-west side of our house has a 2 foot soffit/overhang. This morning we notice that the vinyl siding of this wall is covered with icicles. It looks like water is somehow getting into the bottom metal runs of the soffit and travelling from the gutter end towards the wall and then dripping down the wall. We are in upstate NY so we have had a lot of snow and there is a 3 to 4 inch block of ice coming out the top of the gutter. Is this ice damming? How concerned should I be if the attic or the inside of the exterior wall in question shows no water getting inside the house? Here are some pictures <Q> Even if you are absolutely sure there is no water leaking into the attic you still have a problem. <S> It is migrating under the soffit trim and dripping out where it meets the siding. <S> Potentially the water may get behind the siding if it builds up far enough. <S> There are a variety of methods for dealing with the ice. <S> Try to remove as much of the snow as you safely can. <S> Melt the ice with an ice melt product that doesn't contain rock salt. <S> If the roof is higher than you are comfortable working on you can buy ice melt in a block form that can be thrown onto the roof from the ground. <S> You can also throw pantyhose filled with ice melt onto the roof. <S> All the ice doesn't need to be removed you just need several channels that run from the eave toward the ridge to allow the water to drain from under the ice. <A> If snow has piled up on the overhang and frozen, then an ice dam could have formed. <S> Based on the picture it looks like the dripping is outside the house and only a small leak. <S> It is possible the leak has always been there but you only now noticed it due to the icicle. <S> I would suggest removing any snow or ice on the overhang. <A> My guess is that vinyl siding is either horizontal, or slightly sloped towards the house wall. <S> Water under these conditions can move even if surface is horizontal. <S> Solution would be to put a drip batten at the edge of the roof. <S> It can be metal sheet or anything similar. <S> Whenever water is freezing on your house you should be worried.
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If there is no accumulation then it is not an ice dam, just an ordinary leak in the overhang somewhere. I am guessing that the water is getting pushed up and under the drip edge. This will stop the water from getting near the wall.
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How do I remove painted knockdown texture? We scraped our popcorn ceilings and had somebody do knockdown texture in the whole house. Problem is, that when the guy went to prime over the texture, some of the texture started peeling off on the roller in the master bedroom and living room. There may have then several issues that caused this... Including mixing The Home Depot Tuf-Tex bag incorrectly, possibly the ceiling still had some popcorn dust on it, we're because we're in Florida, the humidity may have gotten to it. I really believe the problem lies in the mixture or application... Because the guy inspected the ceiling, said we did a really good job, and even though we're in Florida by the water, the temperature has been low and relatively dry during this whole process. he tried to blame it on everything else but himself, but it didn't add up. Anyhow, he went back and patched the parts that peeled off, but when we went to go paint over it with a sprayer using a pretty light coat, with in just a couple of hours it started spider cracking everywhere. All this is besides the point though... I really fear just patching again because it could crack in other areas after we did the next layer of paint... And besides, especially in the living room, the cracking is bad all over the place... So we're considering taking it all down, and redoing everything from scratch, possibly using somebody else, and possibly priming prior to texturing. At any rate... The texture comes off fairly easily on about 30% of this 14x22 ft ceiling. The issue is the other 70%, where removal seems fairly difficult even with water. What I'm considering doing he is using a sander with a back attachment or something to try to at least get through some of the paint and primer before trying to wet scrape again. I've read about skim coating... But the ceiling, being 14 X 22, seems like a huge job to tackle that way properly. Can anyone please recommend a decent sander to use? Hopefully one thats affordable since we've already spent so much money on this remodel. Either that, or please offer an alternate method or tips to tackle this issue. Please note that hanging new drywall underneath the old drywall is probably not an option because some of the walls have mirrors going all the way up to the ceiling and other trim that gets in the way. We could possibly replace the ceiling all together, if that seems like a huge daunting task... Let alone expensive. Thanks in advance for any advice given! <Q> I don't know that replacing the drywall for that little a space wouldn't be the best route. <S> Seems the cleanest. <S> Removing trim isn't hard. <S> I don't know about the mirrors, though. <S> A bit of demo and hanging a new ceiling sounds easier than messing around with something that isn't working out. <S> Beyond that, I don't know about knockdown texture, but sanding down a ceiling without a drywall sander sounds like it sucks and trying to water/scrape <S> it sounds like it sucks and is super messy. <S> Demoing drywall is quick. <S> No expert here. <S> I'd just replace it. <S> Seems the surest, which is the direction I like to steer. <A> You can buy or rent a drywall sander that has abrasive pads and a vacuum attachment that collects the dust. <S> This is what I had to do when I experienced the same issue with my bathroom ceiling. <A> I had the same issue as I described here <S> I used a Black and Decker matrix sander attachment (that's what I had) with 80 grit sandpaper. <S> To answer your question about the sander, this is what I used: Black & Decker
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Renting a drywall jack is cheap and makes it a ton easier to hang. I completely got rid of the texture by scraping it off.
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How would you fix this wooden cottage's leaky walls? I have an old prefab cottage made of wood. its walls have become leaky. When it rains sideways (happens a lot because we're so close to the sea), water seeps in from in between the beams, and through the knotholes. This is, of course, ruining the wood inside and I need to do something. The weather conditions here are extreme: in summer, there is zero rain, and temperatures can reach up to 40°C (104°F). In winter, there are rare but intense rainfalls. I guess the nearby sea makes the air very salty. I have considered - and discarded - a number of options, but of course I'm open to being corrected! I am really out of my depth here. Varnish it - the most obvious solution I guess, and would take care of the leaks, but that'd have to be sanded down every couple years, right? I'd like to avoid that as it would be a lot of work. Especially since with our extreme weather, the cycle is going to be very short. Use silicone to fix the leaks directly - I've been told that might not hold together well, and silicone that can withstand the sun is extremely expensive around here. It could be hundreds of Euros to do the job. Plaster the walls - an interesting option as it would also add a little bit of insulation (it gets mercilessly hot in the cottage during the summer), but I've never done this before, it seems tough to do and it would of course alter the look of the building. Obviously, I'd like the solution to be as cheap as possible, and as long-lasting as possible. What would you do? <Q> Try not to go too cheap - if you do this right you may save a lot on not having to sort out dehumidification off-grid, as I assume this is the same building, and if you fix the walls getting wet you won't need that, or at least not nearly as much of it. <S> What dehumidification options don't require a lot of electricity? <S> Unless you have a great desire to preserve the exterior look, I'd strongly consider wrapping another layer around this - whether it's "plastering" "stuccoing" "rendering" "Exterior Insulation and Finish System" (high-tech stucco with more insulation) or just framing up a new wooden wall level with or just past the ends of the interlocking wall logs. <S> If going with wood framing, be sure place an air barrier ("housewrap") below the new siding layer that will block liquid water but permit vapor to pass. <S> Look up "Larsen truss" for one relatively low-cost and DIY friendly method of framing a new insulation cavity and non-structural (not holding the roof up <S> ) wall onto an existing structural wall. <S> Or you could just shingle it - traditional (and durable/effective, <S> thus the tradition) for seaside houses around here, but you may have difficulty finding cedar shingles in your local area...is there such a thing as wall tile like the roofing tiles a that are more common there than here? <S> Or perhaps you get shiploads of cedar shingles from Canada? <A> Well, you could try something like a log home chinking material. <S> These obviously aren't logs and it might be harder to use backing rods in the relatively tight chink joints, but I would still think that you'd want a flexible seal in the joints. <S> You did say the water is coming in through the joints and knot holes, right? <S> It obviously isn't seeping all the way in through the core of the wood. <S> I think you might want to look into using a preservative (borate based?) and some kind of sealer on the wood as well. <S> Particularly the ends which are naturally more absorbent, to protect it from that severe weather and from boring insects. <A> Residing the outside would be you best long term fix. <S> It will not be the cheapest, just the most durable WHEN DONE <S> RIGHT. <S> You will need to leave the corners as they are, they are a structural part of the building, if they are removed the corners will separate, and down comes the house. <S> The plaster you mentioned, for me the system that comes to mind to me is "EIFS" <S> it is a modern day plaster/stucco replacement. <S> Why that came to mind is that a lot of installs are done with a 2" layer of Styrofoam under it. <S> Horizontal wood siding is another alternative, but the corners will have to be dealt with in a way so that they are covered too. <S> Just that is a major leak area. <S> Caulking may do it too, but the wood will need to be cleaned to insure the caulk bonds well. <S> Seasonal changes should not allow the wood to expand and contract the way other houses do since all your sides are stacked like a log home. <S> The WHOLE house shrinks and expands together, so the gaps between the wood in the walls barely change, just the height of the wall, from wet season to dry season. <S> You must be certain the caulk adheres well to the surfaces, for caulk improperly placed can hold in water, as well as good practices of caulking keep it out. <A> Some good suggestions here for you to ponder, Pekka. <S> Looking at that stack of pallets in front of the house, I'm wondering if they're serving as a foundation for the structure (in addition to being a porch)? <S> If that is the case, I would probably not go the plaster route. <S> Just my 2 cents. <S> If you were going to do siding, maybe you could find some nice cedar-type lumber to do vertical lap or T&G, and as folks mention, insulate the walls some. <S> Though, if you are going to insulate, the top of the building envelope should be addressed first. <S> Good luck! <S> brett <A> I have the exact same issue with a new chalet of identical construction. <S> I'd say start by caulking the end crosses vertically. <S> Clean the exterior and apply two coats of pine tar vitriol (pre-thinned with gum turpentine). <S> Apply on a warm day and allow 2 or 3 days before the second coat. <S> You could use another pine tar product if you prefer a different colour <S> but it would likely require thinning with linseed oil for application and absorption into the wood. <S> Clean the wood first with linseed oil soap, you could even prime with a coat of linseed prior to pine tar application.
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I would suggest using a polyurethane caulk, maybe even with a primer to insure the caulk bonds to the wood well. Plaster, chinking, or something along those lines would be the easiest and most cost effective, but if your house is sitting on pallets it likely moves around a fair bit over the course of 4 seasons, which would make any kind of plaster/stucco crack quite badly.
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How can I get a direct stream of water out of my kitchen sprayer hose? I fill up my humidifier tanks several times a day. The tanks don't fit under my kitchen sink, so I have to fill them partially in the sink and then the last 10% with the sprayer. The sink has a flow restrictor, and of course the sprayer is inhibited by turning the water into a spray. Additionally, it's a cheap faucet where the water does not get cut off to the sink when the sprayer is engaged, so there is a half flow that goes to each. What I would like to do is: Replace the sprayer head with some other apparatus which will allow me to completely turn the flow on and off. Replace the sink aerator with some other apparatus which will allow me to completely turn the flow on and off. There are some aerators on the market with this feature, but my initial research showed that at least some of them don't completely turn off the flow, and I'm not sure about the others. update: Apparently there is a value that shuts off the sink water, it recently started working. So issue #2 has gone away. <Q> You can try replacing the sprayer and hose to see if that solves the problem. <S> There could be some bad washers which are making a poor seal. <S> This could be why you aren't getting a good flow from the sprayer. <S> Since you stated that the current faucet you have is a basic model, you could also invest in a replacement one. <S> These can usually be replaced without needing very many tools. <S> You would want to have some basic plumbing tools such as water pump pliers and an adjustable wrench. <S> These tools will vary depending on the style of faucet you have, so you should consult with an employee at the store to see what they would recommend. <S> You can also try filling the humidifier in the bathtub if you have one. <S> This is what I typically do. <S> There is much more room underneath the spout and it fills up pretty quickly. <A> Under the sink, you probably have a shutoff valve for the cold side of the faucet. <S> You could tee off that to a hose bib. <S> You'd probably want to figure out some way of clipping the end of the hose high up in the cabinet so residual water didn't drool out after use. <S> FWIW, plumbing measurements are baffling to the layperson (and some tradespeople that aren't plumbing specialists), so if you find someone in the plumbing aisle that knows their stuff, take advantage of that knowledge. <A> If you're not into getting a new high arc pull-out or pull-down faucet. <S> Then, you'll need to briefly act like you did. <S> The best option is to do nothing with the faucet's end or aerator. <S> Yes, you can replace the aerator with an adapter that's either a Screw-on or a Snap-on for even a garden hose, but then you have to remove it & put it somewhere to use the faucet with the sink. <S> Now, you can turn off the building's Main water supply & replace the kitchen sink's cold water shut-off with a Dual Shut-off so the Faucet & new Filler are separated & full flow. <S> - <S> Then, you need a long Refrigerator Supply Line to run through your old sprayer's mounting or even just the plain hole, it depends what fits or can be drilled for a loose fit. <S> The picture below is for a dishwasher & that'll work too of course, you really just need the hose & its attached ends. <S> - Finally, for your Dispenser you want a crappy old Multi-Turn style shut-off valve. <S> So, you can turn it on slowly & gently rather than having the pressure whip it out of your hand & soak-down the place. <A> Large diameter, flexible clear tubing that'll fit snugly over your faucet head, and is long enough to reach humidifier reservoir. <S> Measure your faucet outlets diameter, and head to the hardware store. <S> Keep hose under the sink when not in use.
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The best option is to replace the sprayer, so remove it from the faucet & screw a proper cap onto or a plug into (whatever you have) its outlet at the faucet. Sprayers don't last forever. The hose bib would have its own closure (I personally prefer the 1/4 turn ones), and you could put a short section of hose on it.
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Why does my microwave trip my AFCI only when it's mostly empty? I live in a recently redone home and I'm having a very odd electrical issue. My microwave is intermittently tripping a combination arc fault breaker only when it is mostly empty, e.g. one slice of pizza. When the microwave is fuller, it works fine. The breaker does not seem to be the problem: I've moved the microwave to a different circuit and had the same results. I have a new Panasonic Inverter microwave; my old microwave exhibited this same problem. No other appliance in this home has caused any trips. Breakers involved are Siemens QAF2 CAFCI. Any ideas? <Q> Most microwave ovens will generate arcs and sparks inside their cavity if they are run with an insufficient load, or no load whatsoever. <S> The high-frequency content from these arcs is being coupled (likely capacitively) through the HV transformer section of your microwave onto the AC line, where the AFCI can then see it and proceed to freak out, thinking the arcing is actually an AC mains arc, not a microwave cavity arc. <S> Suggestion: throw a coffee mug of water in with the slice of pizza. <S> This does the same thing as Keshlam's sacrificial bread slice -- i.e. provides more load to absorb the microwaves instead of letting them bounce around the cavity until they arc, just without having to waste a slice of bread. <A> Mine makes very unhappy noises if I accidentally hit start with nothing in it. <S> I don't know the circuit well enough to venture a guess about why, but I've learned not to try anything smaller than a slice of bread. <S> If I had to, I'd add a sacrificial slice just to make sure. <S> It's possible that yours has a similar limitation. <A> Seem like the afci breaker you have right now affected by the microwave frequency ,try to replace the afci breaker. <A> Had exactly this problem - same microwave, same breaker. <S> The eventual cure was to replace the Siemens breaker with this Eaton one: BRCAF120 <S> Did <S> the same on another circuit which tripped each time I turned the kettle on, and that issue was resolved too.
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Some older microwave ovens really need at least some minimal load to stabilize them.
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How do I make a table drawer child-proof? I want to build a drawer into a table that is held shut by an unseen lock (probably magnetic). The drawer front would have two small holes in it. The handle for the drawer would fit into the two holes, when inserted the handle effectively releases the lock allowing you to open the drawer by pulling on the handle just inserted. Any ideas? <Q> Well, it's not electrical engineering just because it's magnets. <S> I suppose an active version could be made, but there is this option: <S> It doesn't appear to be available for purchase , but it doesn't look difficult to build. <A> Lee Valley Tools Secret Magnetic Door Lock is available on-line and sells for about Can $9.00. <S> However, the picture may give you ideas of where else it might be available. <S> Lee Valley Tools does ship worldwide if you wish to purchase from them. <S> FWIW - I think very highly of that company - they sell very nice stuff at premium prices but everything they sell is top-notch. <S> They also stand behind the products that they sell and are very easy to deal with if you should have a problem. <A> A maker would probably suggest just using a spring-loaded solenoid directly as the latch. <S> (That's what's going on inside the electric strike, though with some mechanical engineering wrapped around it for strength and reliability.) <S> If you want to control this from electronics rather than simple switches, you'll need a driver circuit appropriate for the solenoid. <S> (Relay or equivalent plus a few components to make that friendly to the transistors. ) <S> ... <S> I also highly recommend the Tot Locks (currently sold by Safety 1st, I think) . <S> That's a magnet-operated latch, sold for childproofing but useful for other purposes too. <S> It's just plastic so it can be forced, but it's strong enough to keep kids out until they're old enough to understand magnets and action-at-a-distance, and strong enough to constitute a Very Strong Suggestion to your nosy relatives that they aren't supposed to open this cabinet or drawer. <S> (I was giving these out as baby-shower gifts for a while, having been able to pick up a case ar below-wholesale price. <S> Universal reaction was that these were the only latch that held up to determined and clever toddlers.) <S> No connection with the product, just a happy user.
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Answering the original question: the off-the-shelf answer a locksmith would give you is probably an electric strike or electric deadbolt, of the same sort used on doors.
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Missing front of cabinet drawer, need to sell my house One of the drawer front panels for a kitchen cabinet broke a while ago and I need to somehow get it replaced but I don't know where to look or who I should contact. I don't have the panel anymore at all. The main issue is that I am trying to sell my house so I need to get it repaired somehow. The panel above it is the same, so i can take that panel off and take it somewhere to get replicated somehow, i just dont know where to take it and if its possible due to the color. Does anyone have any ideas on what I can do for this? <Q> The major home centers, Lowes, Home Depot, etc can typically order items such as this custom made. <S> If the cabinet was originally a "stock" size cabinet from such a place, it should be easy to get a replacement. <S> You may or may not be able to find a match to the finish, though. <S> I would hesitate to spend a lot on a really good replacement as a merely adequate replacement would probably fill your need and not be an issue for the next owner. <S> Bring the existing drawer in, and possibly one of the others, as a sample. <S> If two drawers are the same, bring the completed one with you and ask for a copy of that. <S> Be sure to measure the width, depth, and height where the drawer will go. <S> Alternatively, you could look locally in the yellow pages or google maps for custom cabinet shops. <S> Some of the smaller ones may pick up any work they can get and would most likely be able to stain match what you have already. <S> You'll pay more though, shop time in a good cabinet shop can be $60 to $100 or more, and for a drawer like that, they might charge you for several hours of work including the staining/finishing. <A> It would help if you can identify the manufacturer. <S> Frequently the manufacturer will have some sort of marking on the side of the drawer boxes. <S> Pull out some of the drawers and see if you find anything indicating who built them. <S> It's also common for manufacturers to leave a label somewhere in the sink base cabinet. <S> Look on the door or inside the cabinet to see if you find anything. <S> The label will typically indicate the style and finish. <S> As beazors mentioned it looks like you're also missing the front of the drawer box <S> and you're probably better off getting a whole drawer assembly if possible. <A> If you can find out what the finish/company is, along with measurements, you may be able to get a close enough match. <S> I think most places charge around $20 per square foot, so a small drawer front shouldn't be too expensive. <S> EDIT: <S> It looks like you're also missing the front of the drawer box. <S> Typically drawers have two layers at the front, (1) the front of the drawer box and (2) the decorative outer front. <S> If you can't DIY that yourself, you could also order a new drawer box online.
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There are many websites online that sell drawer faces and cabinet doors for re-facing, when people change the look of their kitchens without changing out the actual cabinet boxes.
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Small geyser coming out of the basement floor My house is 40 years old. I have had basement flooding issues for years. With heavy rain, water comes out of my floors. I have a sump pump that takes care of it. Despite knowing better, Ive been able to ignore it. It hasn't caused any problems. My washer and dryer are the only things down there. However, this morning I started down the stairs and I heard water running. To my dismay, I found a small geyser about 3 inches coming out of the corner of the basement. I am a little worried because this last summer my garage patio started to get a small crack in it. However, one morning I went to back out of the garage only to find about a 3 foot wide hole had fell in. It was about 6 foot deep. (Thank God for back-up cameras.) I was informed there was an old well there and I had it fixed. Last week another crack appeared in the same spot. I also noticed a crack above a bedroom door at the other end of the house. The water coming into the basement is about 50 foot from my patio. Should I be worried that the problem is a sink hole and not a water well? Could this problem be diagnosed and fixed for a reasonable amount of money? I have not found a similar problem on the internet. <Q> I know that my answer will not be a proper one (ok, you may downvote if you wish...), but my experience tells me that it's a serious problem. <S> Cracks on walls always tell that something serious is around. <S> I strongly reccomend that, and I guess that this question will not be easily resolved here, on DIY SE. <A> Let me add my experience for the next person who reads about this. <S> We live in a 100 year old home. <S> For 20 years we experiences water coming up vigorously about the perimeter wall and by an interior stone wall. <S> The problems were many. <S> 5 <S> + years ago we trenched the center wall and the low outside walls <S> (floor was sloped to deal with run-off) and added a French drain; we dug a deep sump that the drains to get to. <S> This solved the water problem, but not the moisture problem. <S> This winter we had the floor dug out and replaced. <S> We added 4-5" of stone, a vapor barrier, some insulation and for grins had PEX run for underfloor heat. <S> The new concrete floor looks great and solved all the moisture issues. <A> This is more of a really long comment. <S> In my opinion (and I loved buying homes with basement issues), based on several facts you gave us about the house and surroundings I have to say it looks like your house was built hastily on unsettled land. <S> You have all of the consequences of pouring below grade on unsettled land. <S> I would probably couple that with a rather close proximity to groundwater and you have a recipe for disaster. <S> The problem with unsettled land, land not compacted, is that you will have pockets of water or holes and these pockets will either put an uneven force or your foundation or will leave no force - both are very bad. <S> Even worse is when there is a force in specific location (concrete cracked/broken or upheaval) and then no force (collapse). <S> Two things. <S> You need a structural engineer to give you guidance. <S> Someone local that understands local issues. <S> And the second unfortunately is that there is no fix for this.
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The concrete was poured right on the dirt with no stone; the sump was concrete and INTEGRATED into the floor (requiring water to be on the floor to make it to sump); the floor was cracked and allow moisture up in many places; the soil is clay and rock and doesn't drain. You can bandaid it and get certain things in place to stave off issues but there are no permanent fixes without getting ridiculously expensive. My advice is to find a civil engineer/specialist to make a proper judgement of this matter.
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What is this kind bracket called? I am looking for a bracket that will attach a 2x2 support to the underside of a bed. The support needs to be attached to the headboard and footboard with this bracket at each end. What is this called and where can I find one? <Q> The closest you're going to get is joist hanger brackets. <S> There are some short versions that may be adaptable. <S> All kidding aside, there are stainless steel hanger brackets for 2x2 made for Macaw and Parrot cages similar to your item shown. <S> Probably a little expensive. <S> The item shown is an OEM bracket made specifically for the furniture manufacturer. <A> That support bracket looks like it was manufactured specifically for that purpose. <S> I very much doubt you will find an equivalent bracket for a 2 x 2 layig on a hardware store shelf. <A> Google "bed rail bracket", and <S> you'll see a bunch of possibilities. <S> Some need to be mortised; others just screw on.
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What you could do is look in the "joist hanger/framing tie/framing bracket" section of your local supply store and, with a bit of ingenuity, adapt or alter a bracket to serve your needs.
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Do I have to GFCI protect a range plug if it's within 6 feet of a sink? I am installing a range plug within 6 feet of a sink, do I need a GFCI? I do not have a 2014 NEC code book so I don't know if the code has changed. It has not been required in the past but things can change. <Q> No in any case. <A> While GFCI protection isn't at all required on a 50A electric stove circuit -- it is only required on 15 and 20A receptacles serving kitchen counters as per 210.8(A): (A) Dwelling Units. <S> All 125-volt, single-phase, 15- and 20-ampere receptacles installed in the locations specified in 21O.8(A)(1) through (10) shall have ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel. <S> (6) <S> Kitchens - where the receptacles are installed to serve the countertop surfaces <S> you can install ground-fault protection on the range circuit using a two-pole GFCI breaker if you wish, since you are running a separate ground wire to the appliance -- nothing in Code prohibits it, and it can protect your oven from damage caused by element-to-ground arc fault failures. <S> Note that this doesn't work if you don't have a ground wire run (i.e. you're putting a NEMA 10 outlet in) <S> -- this is because of the exception to 250.140: <S> Exception: For existing branch-circuit installations only where an equipment grounding conductor is not present in the outlet or junction box, the frames of electric ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, clothes dryers, and outlet or junction boxes that are part of the circuit for these appliances shall be permitted to be connected to the grounded circuit conductor if all the following conditions are met. <S> (1) <S> The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120- volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system. <S> (2) <S> The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum. <S> (3) <S> The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service-entrance cable and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment. <S> (4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded to the equipment. <A> It will depend on which code your local authority having jurisdiction is following. <S> The 2017 code requires ALL outlets in living spaces (except for bathrooms) be AFCI protected. <S> If it is within 6 feet of the sink it must also be GFCI protected even if the receptacle is located behind the range. <S> Same thing with the small appliance, range hood, microwave, dishwasher, garbage disposal, refrigerator and other kitchen circuits. <S> In addition cord connected dishwasher and microwave/range hood receptacles can no longer be located behind the appliance.
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Electric range circuits and receptacles do not require GFI protection, and if this is a regular receptacle for a gas range it is behind the range and not serving the counter, so again ,no GFI required.
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Need a new roof but have2 gable ends and no overhang for soffit vents I have about a 1400 square foot roof with a 6/12 pitch. The house was built in the 50's and there are no soffit vents, but there are 2 Gable ends. I need to have a new roof installed and am adding a ridge vent. Is it ok to leave the gable ends with a ridge vent or should I close them off and have edge vents installed? I have no overhang to add soffit vents. Any insight would be very helpful. <Q> When I asked the roof contractor about soffit/ridge venting for my 1890's house, his opinion was that my gable vents were perfectly adequate. <S> Since the switch-over would have generated additional income for him, I'm inclined to believe him. <A> With a 1950's house, this would be a good time (since you are re-roofing anyway) to consider adding a "double roof" to address both insulation and ventilation. <S> From the existing roof deck, that would be 4-6" of rigid foam, 2x4's to make a ventilation channel above the foam, and plywood for a new roof deck, followed by the new roof. <A> There are a lot of factors that involve venting in attics. <S> The size of your attic, the amount of sun your roof gets, climate, the amount of directional wind, and so on. <S> To best serve your situations (in most cases) would be to install some sort of soffit venting and the ridge vent. <S> Depending one where in relation to the attic floor the gable vents where installed I would either close the top 3/4 of them or everything. <S> When you mix gable vents with ridge vents you can often get airflow OUT the gable vents which means your ridge vents are sucking in the hot air from above. <S> This effect causes a situation where you have a pool of hot air and humidity circulating amongst the dead space at the top of your attic, in between the height of the gable vent and ridge. <S> But you don't really have a choice on your gable vents. <S> You have to keep them open or all of the hot air in your house <S> will be sucked up. <S> In this scenario I would try to add more blown in insulation so that the height of the insulation reached the bottom of my gable venting so that there is an intake deck. <S> The other option is that your house was built in the 1950s, hasn't had any issues (I am assuming), so don't just add a ridge vent because that is the new thing. <S> Make sure that there is a reward <S> (how hot is your attic) for the risk.
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Good soffit ventilation with a ridge vent is usually a perfect scenario.
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How to cut aluminium chequer plate (with a jigsaw)? I have a nice sheet aly I bought for my project. It is 2.5~mm chequer plate that needs to be cut into 7 pieces (straight across the sheet, no curves needed), and I tried to cut it with a metal blade in a jigsaw - I only got ¾ of the way through cutting the first piece (2nd photo) The problem is the blade became blunted, either due to aluminium wearing it out, or the aluminium melting and blocking it. This probably due to the speed on the jigsaw being set too high, so would it be possible to cut the aluminium using a jigsaw, and if so what would be the best way to go about it? I know about cutting wood and plastic with a jigsaw, I am not experienced at all with cutting metal. One thought I had would be to try getting some new blades (e.g. 1 2 ). However I am not sure what would be best specification of blade to look for. The jigsaw is a Makita 4350FCT . <Q> They do make blades designed for non-ferrous metal, and may make a difference over a standard bi-metal/multipurpose blade. <S> These may be special order v. a home depot find. <S> I suggest going almost painfully slow to maximize cutting, over deforming the material/dulling the blade. <S> However, the two best ways I know to cut this material are a power 'nibbler' that cuts semi-circular bits out with a repeating punch style cutter, or on a power shear. <A> Aluminum cuts very nicely with a circular saw. <S> Get yourself a new carbide-tipped blade (and some earplugs), clamp a guide to the plate on both sides of the saw, and lower the blade about 1cm past the metal. <S> Push slowly. <S> A well-used blade, or non-carbide blade, will do a spectacularly poor job. <A> I don't think the blade angle is going to work with a jigsaw. <S> Even a circular saw with small teeth wasn't a clean cut.
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I have cut these with both a table/circular saw and an angle grinder.
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why is my led bulb running dim? I have five LED bulbs outdoors near the Twin Cities in Minnesota, all of the same brand (Feit 800 lumens, if that matters), which have been installed somewhere around mid-summer 2013. We don't have dimmers, just a bog-standard on/off switch. Four of them work perfectly fine, but the fifth doesn't. It glows dim, while all the others burn brightly. There haven't been any circuit, wiring, switching or other changes; the only thing I can think of is that we're springing out of a reasonably cold winter. This bulb used to work well, too, similar to the others. And it's now consistently dim. This is in a slightly-difficult-to-get-to spot, hence the question instead of pulling out ladders and playing with different bulbs / configurations. Is there anything that could contribute to this issue? <Q> Well, turns out that repeated slamming of the front entry door isn't good for many things, electrical connections included. <S> I finally had a chance to open the outdoor sconce yesterday and saw that one of the neutral white wires had sort of slipped out of its wirenut, and wasn't holding on very well to the others. <S> I don't know why this resulted in lower voltage going through instead of arcing, but that's probably a good thing. <S> Fixing this was a simple matter of winding the tip of this loose wire a bit deeper and screwing in the wirenut a little stronger than it already was. <S> Did this to the hot black and bare ground wires too, and the light's as good as new now. <S> Lesson learnt? <S> Next step? <S> Trying to convince the family that slamming doors isn't a good idea, but that's a battle I'm not going to win in any case. <A> Depending on the vendor/warranty, it might be worth taking it back. <S> Since it sounds like it's in a awkward position, I'd buy a new one and change it with only one ladder excursion. <A> Water intrusion - LED "bulbs" are typically complex assemblies with joints, as opposed to the glass envelope of an incandescent floodlight. <S> Add water, add freeze-thaw cycles, and perhaps a manufacturing flaw on one bulb, water gets where it should not, things don't work so well. <S> Simple component failure is the other likely option. <S> In either case, replace; try to get a replacement from the manufacturer (since this should be within warranty for most LED bulbs, unless you used "inside-only" bulbs outside) but perhaps do that after buying a different brand to put where this one was, on the gamble that something different might work better there.
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It seems very likely that the bulb is just faulty. Electrical gremlins don't need to be caused by faulty installation, sometimes things that you don't expect to break (like immobile wirenuts) also loosen up due to mechanical vibrations.
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How to change compact fluorescent 4 pin bulb at 22 feet I have compact fluorescent 4 pin bulbs that in the ceiling at 22 feet. I cannot find any bulb changing tools which I can use to reach the height using a pole. Any suggestions would be appreciated. (As a side note: Running out of luck finding a rental place that has 18 foot ladder. ) <Q> What were they thinking? <S> Never thought about the feasibility of changing it from the ground in the future . <S> Rent a boom lift and change that fixture <S> Select one that has an Edison base aiming straight down, and that has a big enough hole in the shade that it can be reached. <S> And then, put no bulb in it and come down to the ground. <S> Then, from the ground using a common bulb-changer stick, install a modern LED "bulb". <S> Do not install the first bulb from the boom lift; that was the last guy's mistake! <S> If this just doesn't work out with that fixture, then take it down and put up another fixture that does, while you still have the boom lift. <A> There are definitely bulb-grasping heads that fit standard pole threads, and section or extension poles which reach that far. <S> Whether one can actually manipulate a bulb well enough at that distance, <S> I don't know. <A> I purchased this on eBay. <S> Hopefully, you can too.
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I'll tell you exactly: "the last guy" installed that bulb from a boom lift or the top of the ladder and declared mission accomplished.
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How can I fasten nuts in narrow places when installing a faucet? Recently I replaced a faucet in the kitchen, but there is not enough room to fasten two nuts. These are not the nuts on the end of the supply lines; they thread onto studs to hold the faucet down. They're too close to the supply lines to be able to grab. I tried with a wrench and a rib joint pliers, unsuccessfully. How can I fasten nuts without calling a plumber? Is there a specific tool to achieve this or something else? UPDATE :I added some pictures to explain my case better. Pic #1 : These are the nuts. At the moment, they have been tightened just by hand: Pic #2 : As I said before, there is really not so much room to tighten due to sinks and pipes. As for pipes, they are almost attached to the nuts, hence a basin wrench is not the best option, in my opinion: Pic #3 : This is a detail from the faucet assembly instructions that shows a better perspective. <Q> What you're after is a tool called a basin wrench: It can reach up behind the sink and tighten those nuts. <A> Due to the nature of the valve construction another type of tool is called for to tighten these. <S> The tool will look like a hex socket end but is able to slide up over the long mounting stud to engage the nut. <S> Tools of this nature are often made of plastic and included in the faucet kit. <S> Included tools of course are manufacturer specific. <S> Here is a picture of a generic version of this tool which can be purchased from Home Depot . <A> After some time looking for a proper solution, the only one I come up with is using a tubular wrench, and sawing the threaded supports that were too long. <S> Maybe not the smartest workaround, but surely this faucet lacks a good design for assembling it. <S> These are some tubular wrenches similar to the one I used: <A> To add to the tools that can be used in this situation is the crowfoot. <S> Use it with an extension and a ratchet. <S> (flank drive style pictured) <A> I had an idea that worked for me. <S> I made spacers from steel brake line, and used a socket to tighten the nuts in a more convenient place for me. <A> I suggest before installing the taps cut the studs down to a more usable length, then just use a normal socket on them. <A> I have a solutionThe problem is the lock nut to hold the faucet in place. <S> If this nut can be small enough to just pass through the hole in the sink then it can be on the faucet ring of pipe .A <S> flexible rubber washer can be used between the nut and the underneath of the sink. <S> This will allow the tightening of the nut to prevent leakage of the water first then the assembly pass from the top and the nut together with the flexible washer can be hand tightened to prevent the faucet from spinning. <S> Since the faucet takes very little pressure to open and close or turning force .... <S> this will work or the lock nut can be smaller to accomodate passing from the top of the sink then a rubber washer that is made with a slit can be placed before the nut and again hand tightened
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A basin wrench is NOT the correct tool to try to tighten the faucet mount nuts that you show in your pictures.
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Is Duck/Duct tape safe to use to insulate mains wires? Question says it all really. Based in the UK so mains is 240v and 20 amps. It's a lighting circuit. <Q> Of course, if you can use heat-shrink tubing or some sort of wire connector (wirenut or push-lock) instead, that's a much better solution -- electrical tape doesn't last the way a proper heat-shrink job does. <A> Duck tape isn't even good enough for ducts. <S> It is not UL tested or approved nor manufactured for any electrical use. <A> Hell no. <S> In fact, don't use duct tape for ANYTHING. <S> If you're using a bare wire for some crazy reason and you want it coated, replace the wire with an insulated one or use heat-shrink tubing. <S> I am an electrical engineer <S> and I HATE electrical tape. <S> It shifts over time, leaving a sticky mess and possibly exposed wires. <A> No No No!!! <S> Duct tape has a metallic skin . <S> Where do you think the shiny metallic look comes from? <S> OK, maybe some modern, cheaper ones achieve the metallic look with non-metallic chemicals (though powdered metal is a pigment type!) <S> Regardless, when companies formulate duct tape, they are keen on making it look metallic and not caring at all whether it insulates . <S> As such, expect duct tape to have exceptionally poor insulation breakdown voltage (possibly as low as a couple of volts) since it is not optimized for that or tested for that in any way whatsoever. <S> Regardless, it's not made to last <S> In any case, duct tape (in modern incarnation) is simply not made to last. <S> I'm sure you've seen the "product" of old duct-tape work where the adhesive parts have fossilized and the sheeting has become crumbly. <A> You will need electrical tape on it first: 3M brand, 33+ type electrical tape, is the only way to go. <S> The current traveling through the wire becomes important at this time too. <S> The 2 weak spots in the use of electrical tape are that it is easy to puncture on sharp bits, and after some time, the adhesive starts to give up. <S> When that happens, the only thing it will not stick to is itself. <S> Heat Shrink, magic that it is, can not be used as for electrical insulation on mains. <S> Physical protection, yes - but not Electrical protection. <S> If the conductors are in a mains/breaker box or similar, you want electrician tape and then rubber splicing tape, which will seal to itself and make a connection that will also resist water, as well as provide some thickness to the wire. <S> Tape should be wrapped in a spiral, with 2/3 of an overlap in each wrap. <S> You can heat shrink over the rubber tape, should you choose. <S> Be warned, should the connection heat up in any way, the heat shrink will try to shrink more, and can split, without warning. <A> EE here. <S> I needed to insulate a 5 VDC circuit board (USB voltage), and people seemed to report partial failures (interference on phone wires) as low as 24 V (AC) from random scouring of forums, perhaps this was because it was AC. <S> I found this question on here. <S> I was out of electrical tape and the stores are closed for coronavirus/COVID-19. <S> Experiment: Wearing appropriate PPE, I used Gorilla Tape , a less metallic, but equally (more) sticky, possibly flammable, terrible choice around energy sources, and not rated for electrical insulation (should not even be considered to safely do the job). <S> I applied 32 VDC across a 1" section, and also directly across its thickness (to simulate one wire wrap) with a current limiting power supply set to 100 mA or so, with additional short circuit protection in case it fails. <S> There was a blip of 1-2 mA, possibly noise (?), but no current appeared to flow and voltage did not drop from hitting the current limit during the short duration of the experiment on my particular sample of gorilla tape . <S> Your tape formula might be more conductive, have lower breakdown voltage, and there is no assurance that this insulating effect will hold up for any amount of time. <S> Conclusion: <S> While this worked for 5 VDC/USB voltage in very short term, I did not have an easily accessible way to test mains. <S> A lot more could go wrong there if that fails. <S> Perhaps a 1 A fast blow fuse and a GFCI could be used. <S> Sounds face-shield dangerous. <S> Don't try this at home, especially in an uncontrolled environment without safety precautions and <S> if there is any doubt, you probably don't know what you're doing. <S> EEs can get killed by high voltage too, mains is easily capable of that, though probably won't if your skin is dry with high impedance. <S> Got my shiny Cu alligator clips all sticky/insulative and posted purely for academic/curiosity's sake so you don't have to. <S> For SCIENCE! <A> No. <S> It is likely to be conductive.
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Use an appropriately listed and labeled electrical tape instead if you must use tape -- duck tape is an unknown quantity when it comes to insulating properties, and also is more likely to combust if hit with sparks than a proper electrical tape would. No it is not an appropriate use. If you're trying to cap the exposed end of a wire, use a wire nut.
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Can I paint and polyurethane my plyfloor or does it have to be covered? On a new build, our subfloor is going to be 18mm plyfloor. I like the idea of painting it with a whitewash and then coating it with polyurethane to keep it as our main floor, rather than covering it with vinyl or laminate planks. Is that a possibility? What are the pros and cons if so? Thanks in advance. <Q> Pro: cheap, and nothing prevents you from putting a real surface on if you find the look does not really appeal after a while. <S> Relatively loud (both to walk on, and acting as a reflector of sound - also loud to the level below if there is living space there). <A> Pros: <S> I can't think of any. <S> Cons: <S> You will have gaps and screws showing, it will be extremely hard to clean, plywood will suck up poly faster than a fat guy drinking a milkshake, ditto the whitewash... <S> Real not to do it are simple. <S> You would have to sand down everything to prevent splinters. <S> Good chance <S> an inspector doesn't even pass it. <S> Also this will cost you in the long run. <S> All of your trim on the main floor will be installed at plywood height. <S> If you put a real floor other than rolls of vinyl all of your trim will have to be cut or pulled and reinstalled. <A> Pick up any Dwell issue and you will see plywood floors all over the place. <S> but realize you still need to 'finish' the floor by proper sanding, nail/screw setting and finish. <S> The top layer is just not thick enough.
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Cons: Potential for nasty splinters; plywood splinters are miserable. One potential con is that you can't resand and refinish plywood floors more than once or twice. No real cons other than style taste No way I could get a house passed with exposed subfloor in a lot of areas.
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How should I run power wiring and Cat-5 to the perimeter of my huge yard? I have a house that sits on about 4 acres of land. There is a very large front yard and an even bigger one in the back. I want to get both power and Ethernet (for security cameras) located at various points in both the front and the back. Does anyone know of a single cable bundle that includes both (shielded so as to not have the power interfere with the data), and that can also be buried directly in the ground? I know it's going to take a ton of trenching, but that's ok. I am more stumped on how to find the right kind of cable. <Q> Trenches are hard/expensive. <S> Conduit is inexpensive. <S> Having dug the hard and/or expensive trench, investing a tiny bit into having conduit in the trench so you never have to dig that trench again is just sense. <S> Direct burial is silly. <S> It's especially silly the second time, when conduit the first time would mean no need to dig again. <S> It's a short-term savings that often isn't even a savings (conduit + wet-rated outdoor wire is not infrequently less expensive than direct burial outdoor wire.) <S> Depending on what security cameras you get, ethernet can be the power wiring (PoE cameras) <A> Conduit is the only way to go. <S> Do it once and do it right. <S> In 5 years you will be happy you did. <S> PVC Conduit, you will need two runs, one AC and one data. <S> You will never regret buying bigger pipe. <S> They can lie next to each other. <S> Rent <S> a 'Ditch Witch' trencher for a day longer than you think you need, one that will dig 24", but an 18" trench will be fine. <S> Pull at least 3 pieces of plastic string, mason's twine or the like works well. <S> You can then pull bigger rope if needed. <S> Use the first one, the second is for pulling the other thing you figure out you need in the pipe. <S> The third is when the back-up breaks. <S> Buy a kellems type pulling grip for each cable, you will be glad you did, Use twice the pulling lube you think you need 'Yellow 77 <S> a Greenlee brand name,'or something similar. <S> Best of luck to you. <A> Note that wifi may be a perfectly reasonable alternative to the cat5. <S> A standard router covers my property quite adequately. <S> If i needed longer throw, a directional antenna can increase range considerably; websearching "cantenna" will find a number of designs. <S> (I've used the side-fired coffee can design;not <S> the most efficient but easy to build <S> and it does work) <A> Are you sure you want to run ethernet for your security camera's? <S> an alternative is to run Coaxial cable with power. <S> The cable is an integrated cable (one coaxial and one power) see RG59 Siamese cable <S> Yes. <S> this is not digital. <S> But at least you have the increased reliability of Coax and reduced cost of the camera's. <S> Remember your DVR can convert to digital at the DVR unit, so its not really much difference. <S> Do you plan to have a dedicated network for the IP Camera's? <S> EDIT: <S> Thought I would leave the post here, but on second thought, I think it would be a bad decision to run Coaxial since its lack of ground loop immunity, high interference and impedance. <S> At those distances, UTP cable will be far superior.
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You do need wet-rated outdoor wire - all conduits outside are assumed by code to be wet, and the assumption is usually correct - condensate will do it if nothing else does.
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can I use a thick coating to fill the gaps between planks on wood deck? I want to use the space under my deck for entertaining when its raining. What would happen if I used one of the thick bed liner type wood coatings and simply applied it to the decking and also into the gaps, After a rainstorm I was thinking the water would evaporate or I could squeegee it off, I also thought about installing a composite type material underneath the floor boards between the joists to eliminate the coating from dripping through the cracks while it is drying. After it all dried I would possibly remove the composite material and coat the underside of the deck. So could you give me any reasons not to do this? <Q> I have installed membranes underneath decks and ran them to gutters to provide an under deck patio space. <S> To answer your question, no you can't do that - for the easiest reason - because it won't work and your guests will get wet. <S> And for a hard reason, it will tear up your deck with wood expanding and warping due to pressure or wood rotting due to standing water. <S> I would ask a follow up question that asks possible ways to divert water, so that people can answer that. <A> I don't think this will work. <S> When the decking expands and contracts it will tear apart your coating. <S> What they do in apartments where upper decks overhangs lower ones is use a membrane. <S> First you need to apply sheeting, then you need to tape/seal the sheating joints. <S> Then you apply several coats of the membrane with a roller. <S> Most home improvement centers sell the kits (membrane tape and grit) but it pretty expensive. <S> I have done two decks this way and they have lasted for years. <S> Another thing I have done, but it is much more of a hack, is to install a corrugated roof under the upper deck. <A> As @joncon said in his answer, that kind of coating won't last very long because the boards expand and contract with the seasons. <S> You also don't want to do this because the deck will not drain properly. <S> Standing water could also be a hazard in the Winter. <S> There could be a sheet of ice on there which could cause a deadly slip and fall. <S> The best way to use the space below the deck if it is raining is to install a roof or awning over the deck. <S> There are tons of options for this. <S> A retractable one might be perfect for you since you can close it in the Winter, or in storms.
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You most likely would have issues with water pooling on the deck boards and causing them to stain, warp, and eventually rot. You don't want to completely seal up the spaces in between your boards.
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Can multiple 2-way occupancy motion sensor switches be used together? Can multiple 2-way occupancy (AKA motion) sensor switches be used together? For the top and bottom of a staircase, I want the lights to be on if either switch senses motion and the lights stay on until both switches time out after not sensing motion. I know how to wire such a circuit but I want to know if doing so is by-the-code OK (Canada) and how to mark the wires so someone in the future will understand what has been done. Thanks. Edit 1: The building is my private home, so I can be confident of (mostly) who will use the stairs and their knowledge of the set-up. However, I could certainly make some tidy P-Touch labels for the faceplates. Writing on the backside of the faceplates and adding a note inside the junction box is possible too. (Are we certain paper in the box isn't a fire hazzard?) The bulb-changing scenario is something I didn't think of. Perhaps a 3'rd, manual toggle, master circuit kill switch would be possible? Or would that be getting too far away from K.I.S.S. ? The sensors will face perpendicular to the stairs, detecting people as they enter but only partially while they are on the staircase. I see the concern for the sensors timing out while a person is in mid-climb. However, the staircase is only 12 feet long and receives some natural light during day. A person would need to stop mid-way, out of sight of both sensors and eat a sandwich for enough time to pass to expire the lights. I could mitigate this by adjusting the time-outs, leaving the staircase lit for up to 30 minutes after a sensor last detected motion. I trust that I am answering questions correctly by "editing" my post. That seems to be what the options suggests I should do. <Q> For American readers: I cannot find any language in the NEC expressly prohibiting the use of switches (motion-sensing or manual) in parallel for ORed lighting configurations such as the OPs. <S> However, there's another problem, and that's user expectancy; even with manual switches installed, most people will see this setup and think "three-way switch", not realizing it's really been wired differently. <S> I, personally, would insist on having labels on the faceplates of both motion sensors mentioning that this is not a three way setup, and pointing up or downstairs at the other switch, as appropriate -- there's an off-chance it could get a clumsy bulb-changer bit because they only overrode one of the sensors, not both. <S> Considering that you have stairway coverage accounted for, and a way to label this, I'd go ahead with it. <A> This is a perfect situation for smart switches as mentioned in another answer. <S> Small suggestion regarding labeling - I wouldn't put a label on combustible paper inside an electrical box. <S> Use something made to be in there. <S> A little electrical tape flag with PARALLEL written on it, on the wire nut, might be a good way to go. <A> <A> As far as changing bulbs, LED moots that issue. <S> You can also use LED fixtures which are bulbless - the LED proper will outlive all of us, however quality matters in the electronic driver. <S> For that matter, one option these days is use a 4-5 watt LED and simply burn it 24x7 . <S> This sets you back about a dollar a watt a year, so <S> it's not a crippling cost. <S> At that point it does not require a light switch at all, but it must still be designed so someone does not turn it off thoughtlessly or carelessly. <S> Marking wires for "the next guy" is a good idea. <S> However you can imagine what will happen: a paper note will be considered trash, and instantly get lost. <S> You can do this with colored electrical tape . <S> There is a risk of (especially cheap non-3M tape) getting warm and unwinding off the wires, leaving a sticky mess and no useful markings. <A> Yes, you can, under code, but you will also need to have 'real' switches also installed. <S> As far as the second part write on a bit of paper, in marker, and stuff it in the the motion sensor junction box. <S> Will both of the sensors cover the entire stairway? <S> This is the game changer. <A> Lutron Maestro line of switches can communicate wirelessly to multiple ceiling mounted occupy sensor that use a battery. <S> The switches work the lights as normal if the sensors battery dies. <S> I've installed them and give it a thumbs up. <S> Battery Version <A> There no code (NEC) preventing the output from motion detectors on the same circuit from being combined. <S> I did this at my last home for a very long circular drive, 1 detector at each end and 1 in the middle it is still working today almost 20 years later <S> but 1 of the sensors did require replacement after a tangle with a weed eater. <S> To wire this up I used 12/3 with ground the motion detectors get the hot(black) and neutral (white) at each location <S> then the lights are tied to the red (switched output from each detector) and the neutral (white) to each lamp , grounds to the fixtures and junction boxes. <S> Works great, for a stairwell you may want a motion switch with override <S> , I think this may be one of the areas some one may have a problem with automatic only. <S> My plant had areas of automatic only lighting that had to be updated with Manuel overrides.
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Have successfully wired 3 Lutron motion sensors to control a common light fixture so that light would be activated regardless of point of entry into room, hall, etc. Your best bet is to mark the wires directly . To avoid that , use shrink tubing (the hair dryer will need power, don't use a match, it doesn't shrink evenly, and setting your house on fire defeats the purpose of careful electrical work!)
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Will galvanized metal conduit balusters resist rust? I'd like to use galvanized metal conduit as deck balusters with pressure-treated lumber. Will the bare metal resist rust? If not, is there an inexpensive way to improve its rust resistance? <Q> It is however inevitable that it will rust. <S> The most likely place for rust to start will be at the ends where it has been cut or along the surface where the finish has been scratched. <S> I've used EMT type conduit for various types of outdoor things and had some deployments last for many years without much rust at all. <S> On the other hand there have been times when the conduit has rusted on parts of its surface having been exposed to the outdoor elements for one or two seasons. <S> I can think of one or two other things to think about for your proposed application. <S> If it was your intention to bore spaced holes in cross lumber pieces that the conduit would be inserted be aware that this makes for a possible water collection point. <S> Especially in the lower section where collected water will speed the process of the conduit rusting. <S> EMT type conduit that is captive on two ends will have more of a tendancy to bend out of shape as opposed to wood that would have more of a tendancy to flex. <S> Of course a whole lot depends on the length if the pieces and what the cross sectional dimensions are. <S> If you wanted to take some steps to seal the metal pieces to provide longer term resistance to rust you could paint them. <S> Even better would be to prepare all your pieces and then send them out to a shop that could apply high temperature cured powder coat finish. <S> This latter has the possibility of sealing the ends where the metal was cut as long as the ends were smoothed and had no burrs or sharp edges. <A> Rigid conduit (which is pretty much the same thing as galvanized steel pipe) is galvanized with a considerably thicker layer than EMT - it's also stronger (emt is a bit flimsy for a railing) and more expensive (such is life.) <S> Since you didn't specify what type of galvanized metal conduit you were considering using, what happens will vary with the type you choose. <S> EMT is very flimsy and prone to rust - inexpensive and easy to workwith, but not a great railing material, IMHO. <S> Rigid would work nicely, and probably not rust for a good long time if the galvanizing was not deeply scratched. <S> I know there is a third product (IMC) <S> but I don't have any directexperience with it. <S> I believe it's "Intermediate" Metallic Conduitand heavier than EMT, lighter than rigid - and I don't know how itsgalvanizing compares. <A> I have built rails with 1/2" emt vertical balusters inserted into pressure treated 2x4 lumber stringers. <S> I cut, de-burred, and cold galvanized the cut ends of the conduits. <S> This installation was finished in 2001 and displays no rust or bent conduits after 18 years. <S> I am currently doing another installation and expect trouble-free service for many years. <S> I like the look of the galvanized conduit and <S> it never peels like powder coated balusters will. <S> Current cost is $3.52 for 10' of conduit which provides 4 or 5 rungs depending on rail spacing. <S> Total cost of the materials (conduit, paint, stringers, and top rail), is about $4.50 per linear foot. <A> Use black pipe; it'd be better physically and aesthetically. <S> I could tell from your neighbors yard if you used conduit <S> but otherwise I'd have to walk up to it <S> and then I'd say: <S> Ooh, nice. <S> They used black pipe. <S> You would have to paint it though. <S> At least consider 'sticking' with wood before you go with flimsy old EMT. <A> It's amazing. <S> I live in near the ocean where salt air makes everything turn to rust overnight. <S> I coat all raw steel with this before painting it. <S> I've used it on totally rusted out pallet racks and was amazed how it turned the rust back into steel. <S> I think Lowes carries a rust converter by Jaffeys.
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Typical EMT Type conduit will resist rust for a few years. Go to The Rust Store and get a gallon of their rust converter.
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Using half of a 240v dual-phase circuit as a 120v single-phase circuit (US) Usually when I see a 240v device, it is wired to its own double-pole circuit breaker, with each pole connected to a different 120v phase (to provide 240v total). If there is a 120v device in the same location, it is wired to a separate single-pole circuit breaker, which it often shares with other 120v devices. If a neutral were wired along with the two phases in the 240v circuit described in my first paragraph, either phase could be used along with the neutral to power a 120v device. If there were no other 120v circuits nearby (and with enough capacity), this could potentially cost less than leaving the 240v circuit by itself and adding a separate breaker, hot, and neutral for the 120v device. Why is the scenario described in my second paragraph uncommon in practice? Are there safety or electrical code concerns that I am unaware of? Thanks! <Q> The problem with doing this is you may have, say, a 30 amp double pole breaker on your 240V line which may be 10g wire, and the you come off it on one phase with a 120V circuit with 14g wire, the 30 amp breaker is to high for 14g wire, which then is not protected from melting. <S> The US has moved to 4 wire 240V service, to accommodate appliances that have internal 120V electronics. <A> If I read your question correctly, you want to both have 120V and 240V outlets coming off of the same tandem breaker. <S> The code compliant way to do this is to add a sub-panel at the end of the 240V feed and then have separate breakers feeding the 240V and 120V outlets. <S> I believe it is against code to have both voltages of outlets directly fed by the same breaker. <S> Because of the gauge of the exiting wires, you probably cannot increase the amperage of the existing breaker. <S> If your current circuit were 240V 30A, you would feed that into a sub-panel (60 amp will probably be the smallest you'll find). <S> Inside the sub panel you would have another 30 amp tandem breaker feeding the 240V outlet and 15 or 20 amp breakers feeding the 120V outlets. <S> You will need to be careful not to overload the original 30 amp breaker <S> but if you do, the breaker will flip and no harm will be done, the wiring will be protected. <A> Take a water heater. <S> Its rating is 23A. Code requires a 125% derate, which puts it at 28.75 amps, just enough to shimmy under the "30 amp" figure. <S> In other words, the appliance uses all of the circuit's capacity, and is designed to do so. <S> So you try to add a 3A load. <S> Let's say it doesn't require the 125% derate, so now you're putting 28.75 amps on one leg, and 31.75 amps on the other leg. <S> Whoopsydaisy . <S> That would require a 40A breaker, but now you have a problem. <S> Your water heater requires a 30A plug. <S> You can't put a 30A plug on a 40A breaker. <S> Okay, so hardwire the load. <S> Now you have another problem. <S> If hardwired loads provision more than 50% of circuit capacity, you can't have receptacles on that circuit. <S> Okay, so hardwire both loads and use the 40A breaker. <S> Nope, the water heater's labeling and instructions require a 30A breaker. <S> A subpanel would actually work. <A> The way I read your question was if an existing 240/120 was being unused, why is it not common to utilize it for two 120V branch circuits? <S> Well, in fact it is common practice. <S> One common scenario is for a residence to have a 240/120 3-wire <S> ( two ungrounded hots + 1 ground) unused range circuit feed two small 120V appliance circuits. <S> This is covered in the 2014 NEC 210.24 under the term tap conductors <S> and it has very specific rules to follow. <S> Another scenario is to take an unused 240/120 30A <S> #10 4-wire ( two ungrounded hots + neutral + ground ) and turn it into a multi-wire branch circuit, MWBC for short. <S> The installer would remove the 30A breaker and install a double pole 20A breaker and relabel the breaker to its corresponding loads. <S> Keep in mind <S> there are a lot of Code requirements when adding new circuits. <S> In general for example, Double pole breakers are required with a MWBC. <S> ( 3 pole too but rarely a residential situation). <S> Most all new 120V wiring will require GFCI and/or AFCI protection, and while they do make double pole GFCI/AFCI breakers, they can be more expensive.
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The issue is loading Generally when you see a 2-pole 240V breaker dedicated to an appliance, the appliance is intentionally sized to use the entire circuit . There's no way to do it, besides a subpanel.
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attic access to the outside If i build in my attic 2 bedrooms do I need to have a access door to the outside or some kind of ladder. The attic is the 2nd story of my home and has normal stairs going up from the main floor living space. <Q> They are literally $30 for a drop ladder. <S> I won't recommend any because I have never had to use one and don't want to recommend anything that is poor. <S> First any municipality will make you have formal stairs getting to the second level. <S> Second you need to understand these numbers (US) <S> - you need a window that meets them: <S> no more than 44" above floor (bottom of the window) <S> 20 <S> " wide 24 <S> " high and 5.7 total square feet Couple of notes here. <S> I have had inspectors check that the window is able to open and close. <S> So if you are thinking about buying a solid framed window, I would ask your inspector first. <S> I have never installed this on a second story of a home <S> so I can't say I missed an inspection, but I have seen an inspector open a few windows to make sure they were in working order. <S> I have messed up the 5.7 total square feet. <S> I had a framed window of 24" high by 24" wide, so you would say - "meets code". <S> No, it wasn't because it didn't meet the 5.7 requirement. <S> This is one of those mistakes you only make one time. <A> It may depend on your use of the term second story, which means different things in different parts of the world. <S> If you have a ground floor (ground level access) a first floor (no ground level access) and a second floor it is normal and customary to provide two means of egress (dual staircases, a staircase and an external fire escape, etc.) from bedrooms on the "second" floor, which is the "third" floor in the system below. <S> If you have a first floor (ground level access) and a second floor (no ground level access) <S> it is generally considered acceptable in most LAHJs to have one staircase as access to that second floor. <A> You will have to have two forms of egress. <S> Your stairs likely counts as one, as long as it's appropriately sized. <S> A properly sized window in each room could be your second. <S> x ft. above final grade.
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You don't have to have a ladder for a second story window. Luckily inspector noticed this during rough-in (I had already bought window but still). Depending on your location, there may be requirements for ladders from any egress However I would buy one and keep it in a well known place. There should, however, be windows of a size sufficient to be considered "egress windows" in all bedrooms (which are larger than you may anticipate, since they are meant to be able to permit a fire department person in full turnout gear and an air pack to get in, grab a person in need of rescue, and get out.)
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Retaining wall: footing or no footing? I'm looking to build a retaining wall on my sloped backyard . I'll be using cinder blocks (with mortar to join them together and rebar for added stability). (added info: at the lowest point the wall is going to be close to 4 feet tall, not counting how deep I have to dig and how much of the wall needs to be underground) Some questions: 1) Footing or no footing? Can I start setting the cinder blocks directly on base gravel, with rebar vertically every 3-4 feet for added stability, and filling them up with mortar as I go? Or do I need footing? 2) If I need a footing, how deep into the ground should my footing be? Not how deep the footing itself should be (I'm thinking I'll go with a 1' footing—feel free to comment on that), but rather how deep into the ground do I need to dig my trench in order to set the footing? I know that for gravity walls on sloped yards I need to measure 5' out of where I plan my wall to be and dig the difference. What about for cinder block walls, is it the same? Or the added strength and stability of rebar+mortar, or footing+rebar+mortar, makes it so I don't have to dig as much? Hope the info I provided is sufficient to get help and answers from. Let me know if you need me to try and sketch the design of the wall for added context. Thanks <Q> Can I convince you to not do this ? <S> Honestly not trying to be an ass. <S> Please, please - Get a quote from a company that builds retaining walls. <S> The quote will cost very little or nothing. <S> You will be shocked at the cost, and not in a good way. <S> The quantity of material needed to build the wall, will amaze you. <S> Please get a quote or two first. <S> I promise you, you will not regret it. <S> Block walls work in compression, heavy things directly on top of them is fine. <S> Side to side, their goal in life is to tip over, and they are damn good at it. <S> A 1' deep pile of soil, behind a 4' block wall, 1 block long, weighs 500 pounds. <S> The path of least resistance is to knock over the wall. <S> Blocks, attached with mortar, to the soil behind the wall about as strong as a 2x10 resting on its edge. <S> The question is more one of how many yards of concrete will you need to build the footing. <A> To make a retaining wall the stone (or other immutable material) must be make a 45-degree angle into the hillside. <S> The footing must be as broad as the plinth and must go as deep as the frost line. <S> In New England where I live the frost line is 4 feet deep, so I have used that depth in the diagram. <S> Any other form of wall will eventually collapse. <S> If the wall depends on metal in any way then it will collapse when the metal rusts. <S> If the wall depends on mortar, then it will collapse when the mortar erodes. <S> If an angle less than 45-degrees is used or if a non-fixed material, like gravel, is used as fill, then the wall will bulge out over time and eventually collapse. <S> The Roman walls still standing on the Appian Way and in other places that have lasted for 2000 years are all of the design I have shown. <A> A footing would be nice; if you do one with solid concrete, I'd leave some channels through for drainage. <S> Another options is to use road base; the different sizes of rock lock together very tightly. <S> Make sure that any loose base is well-compacted. <S> Note that in many places any wall higher than 3' requires a permit and/or engineering. <A> I landscape in MN where the frost table is much greater. <S> We bury the base course of our retaining walls which is generally 6"-7" with at least 4" of Class 5 gravel underneath. <S> Any wall greater than 4' needs a permit in general. <S> The one thing that nobody has taken into account is the need for water drainage. <S> Compact class 5 on the backside of your baseblock and install a perforated drain tile that drains at the lowest point of the wall or put outlets on the first unburied course generally one every 50'. <S> in your case i would have put in two 10' in from the outside of the walls. <S> Put permeable (allows water to pass through) fabric underneath the drain tile and up the back side of the wall. <S> Back fill with round rock of any sort <S> a foot behind the wall and all the way to the top of the wall; allowing 6 inches for black dirt if you want grass to grow. <S> Anything behind that 1' of round drain rock can be the fill that was taken out during initial excavation. <S> All of this back fill should be compacted to avoid settling and also washing of the fill into the drain rock. <S> Put 1/16" lean on your base course per layer of block. <S> So your 4' wall should have about a half inch of lean to it. <S> An easier way to achieve this is the bubble on your level should be split in half by the line facing the front of your wall. <S> Apply this to any wall and as long your building material, whether it be block or concrete and mortar, stays intact your wall should not push forward due to proper drainage, proper lean, and proper compaction of base and back fill. <A> Building code states that a footing supporting a structure above must be 8” below the local established frost line depth.
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Blocks work because they are tied to very solid, heavy things at the top and bottom that run the length of the wall, and have regular supports at a right angle to the length of the brick.
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Is there any benefit to upsizing to 3/4" pipe off a 1/2" main supply? I have a half inch main supply coming from the street (house built in 1954). Is there any benefit if I run 3/4 PEX from the water meter to the various feeds and then branch off 1/2" PEX to the faucets? Does it increase the flow or will it reduce it? will it improve pressure? <Q> Flow resistance, like electrical resistance, increases with conductor length. <S> If you are going a long way (say, over 50 meters) you will get better flow by running a larger pipe. <S> The volume is a non-issue - (static) pressure won't go down even if you install one of those giant green gas storage containers in the yard. <S> In no case will you get more flow than what the incoming pipe can provide, larger pipes just mean you will not lose part of this flow to resistance. <S> In a standard house you don't have enough piping (or demand) to make a difference. <A> Most of the pressure loss will have already occurred in the 1/2" line before it reaches your house. <S> So, it will help some, but how much will depend on how long the run is compared to how long that 1/2" service connection is. <A> Pex and copper have differing inside diameters. <S> Copper has the larger opening. <S> As to 1/2 copper to 3/4 pex I dont know for sure. <S> This said I would not run my hot lines at the larger size as the pipe holds more water and will waste more water waiting for hot or sitting in the pipes cooling. <S> If you can insulate both hot and cold pipes... <S> its a minor cost that will pay for it self soon. <A> There is no use in ever installing any plumbing that is bigger than your main supply line. <S> At best you will have no issues. <S> Worst case scenario is you will lose some pressure based on the increase in volume. <S> If you want to increase pressure you need to first increase the main supply line. <S> If there is no chance of that happening then decrease as many things as you can to 1/4" (toilets, faucets). <A> It is true that 3/4 supplies more water and lowers pressure. <S> When faced with this kind of question--resize to the ridiculous (you'll pass many tests with this trick too). <S> So if you have a 42 foot diameter pipe coming from the river to your house, what will the pressure be? <S> 1 pound per square foot, perhaps? <S> And almost zero resistance, and volume like crazy. <S> Now pretend it is a natural hot water spring you're feeding from. <S> You'll be waiting hours for all the non-moving water that has cooled in the pipe to move through your showerhead while the natural hot water spring refills the 42 foot pipe with fresh HOT water, eventually making its way to your shower. <S> The answer in short about your original question is, yes, change your mainline, but not to 3/4, instead to 1 inch PEX, this will greatly help flow, and will stop those annoying pressure drops when someone flushes a toilet while you're in the shower. <S> MAKE SURE your hot water supply to the shower is 1/2" and insulated!There is a really good <S> you tube video about this from one of the U.S. plumbing associations: <S> search plumbing layout in you tube, and then look for a bunch of letters such as AAPPA or some such abbreviation as the uploader. <A> You can have a 2 foot diameter pipe and not lose pressure! <S> A larger pipe has less surface per volume of water. <S> Going to a larger size would greatly reduce friction and help keep pressure. <S> A half horsepower pump could push water across the United States if not for the friction of the water against the wall of the pipe. <S> Push <S> but not pull
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Running 3/4" piping from the 1/2" feed will slightly decrease the pressure loss, meaning you'll get more pressure at your fixtures, but the difference will probably be very small. As a matter of fact you would be greatly extending your pressure tank capacity greatly.
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How can I vent a portable air conditioner when there's no window? My shop does not have central air and does not have operable windows. There is a steel door in the back and cinderblock walls. My landlord is against me cutting a venting hole in either the steel door or the wall...any wonderful ideas, anyone, for how I can use a portable air conditioner here...it was murder here last summer!!! <Q> Do you have a budget in mind for adding the ac? <S> You can use a water-cooled unit, but plan to spend $1500 and up. <S> These units can be hooked up to a water supply (sink, garden hose, etc.) and drained back to a sink, outside, or wherever is available. <S> The heat from the air is transferred to the water - much like a geothermal ac or heat pump works. <S> We use these a lot in restaurant food storage rooms and for portable ac's at public events. <S> The so-called vent-less ac units work by dripping cool water over a screen in front of a fan. <S> The humidity becomes unbearable and people will feel very uncomfortable quickly. <S> Avoid these systems entirely. <A> If the steel door is of a standard size, see what it would cost to buy another door of the same size. <S> In the optimal case this would just require lifting the old door off the hinges and the new door in its place. <S> At most you have to unscrew the hinges and move the lock from one door to another. <A> I'll bet you can take a piece of OSB, cut it just smaller than the jamb of the door, put some pipe insulation around it, and make a press-to-fit door. <S> Cut a vent in the middle, hook up the AC hose and you're done. <S> It will only work when you are there. <S> Idea 2 - move involved. <S> Open the door <S> so there is a gap of about 8". <S> Now build a frame around the door as it is open; you will probably need to wrap both the top and the bottom to make the frame work. <S> Vent through the jamb. <A> There are ventless portable a/c units. <S> they are typically in the 5,000 BTU range. <S> They have a container that holds the moisture that is removed from the air which you must empty manually. <S> In very high humidity areas it can become full in as little as a few hours. <S> As you can imagine they are not particularly efficient as the heat it generates is contained in the room. <S> They work best for small rooms like an office or bedroom. <A> Land lord said nothing about a hole in the roof :) <S> Roof vents are -really- easy to install, and look great when done properly! <S> The directions on the box will tell you everything you need to do, but really it really is just as simple as cutting a hole in the roof, caulking, and tucking under a few shingles!
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If they don't go for a roof vent, you could use an under-eave vent depending on how the structure is designed. Then ask the landlord if you can replace it with your own door, and cut a hole in that.
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Why is my gas heater shutting down the flame and pilot? I have a KINGSMAN gas heater, Model FV-5000N, quits working. After I relight pilot, turn switch to on, the flame lights and begins to heat, then after about 30 seconds, there is an audible click from the valve body and the flame goes out including pilot light. <Q> Bad thermocouple - it is supposed to sense the presence of a flame, and turn off the gas if it is on, but nothing is getting hot. <S> Last one I replaced was less than $10 at home depot, it is held in with only a screw or two, and less than an hour of work, including the beer after fixing my friends water heater. <S> Looks like this <S> , they are pretty much universal. <S> http://www.lowes.com/pd_26369-135-6910476_0__?productId=3133513 <A> Do you mean the main burners light when you say "flame lights and begins to heat"? <S> If so, check these possible issues: <S> Thermocouple is too hot. <S> The pilot light flame should only touch the top 1/3 of the thermocouple. <S> Is the pilot flame nice and blue, or is it orange in colour? <S> An orange flame may not be hot enough for the thermocouple to work properly. <S> Does the pilot flame decrease in size when the main burners come on? <S> If so, check for low gas pressure. <S> There could a fault in the gas valve's main burner solenoid, causing it to draw excessive power and starving the pilot flame solenoid. <S> If so, replace the entire valve. <S> Gas valve are allowed 30seconds to "fall out". <S> In English, that means a gas valve is slowed to continue to release gas for up to 30 seconds after the pilot fails. <S> Sounds odd, but this is how they actually work. <A> From grabbing the manual Here For natural gas, a minimum of 3/8" iron pipe with gas minimum pressure of 4.5" w.c. must be used for supply <S> It is possible you have low pressure gas from the gas meter.
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Also, there may be a pilot adjustment valve on your gas valve.
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Some ideas on how to block a wheel on a metallic rod? I manage somehow to put some old inline roller wheel to some old trolleys I use in my house for shopping (and trekking). The average weight is about 20-30 kg. I am looking for a way to fix those wheels knowing that, I only have some basic tools (no electric ones). I'm looking for a cheap solution, I dont want to invest more than a couple of dollars to fix those wheels. I'm looking for a simple and smart idea to prevent the wheel from getting out of the rod the big trolley rod is quite long, I might cut it. the small trolley rod is more tricky. The best way would be to thread the rod, but it would only work for the big trolley since the short trolleys's rod is not long enough (only 3 mm are cylindrical, the remaining part, 7 mm, has been too much filed to put the wheel on it, and it has a kind of conic shape). But anyway I don't have the thread tool so it's out of question. Drilling the rod to fit a pin would be great but, once again, no drilling machine. I thought about using hose clamp, but I'm afraid the wheel will make it turn with it, and damaging the hose clamps. I also though about using some sort of "weld epoxy", (I would just file the resin to change the wheel when needed) but I'm not sure it will be strong enough. Any creative idea and advice would be very appreciated. This is the big trolley: This is the small (foldable) trolley: <Q> Use a hacksaw (or just a hacksaw blade if you don't own a hacksaw) to make a groove all around the rod. <S> Use an "E-clip" in the groove (perhaps with a washer towards the wheel, first.) <A> Axle cap nuts (or axle hat nuts) are designed for this use. <S> You just press them onto the smooth axle. <S> The trick may be finding just the right size. <A> I know this wouldn't be as pretty as an e-clip, but you might not be able to readily find e-clips of the size you'd need to make this happen. <S> Something else you could try as well is to cut the ends of the bar down <S> so you have a short length of rod sticking out, place the flat washer next to the wheel <S> , then mushroom the ends of the rod to keep the washer in place.
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If you had a small electric grinder (Dremel or similar) that would also be an option, but the hacksaw will work and is a hand tool. If you cannot find the e-clips (as presented in @Ecnerwal answer), use some bailing wire (or some type of form-able, solid wire which can be wrapped around the axle at the groove.
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What's the strongest anchor for something heavy in double drywall? I have a party-wall in my apartment-née-condo that seems to have two sheets of drywall installed against eachother. All attempts to find some sort of stud or resilient channel / furring strip have failed miserably; short of going Hulk and tearing out a hole large enough to stick my head in and look for studs, I've given up. (And I don't have the drywall-repair skills to seriously do that; if it can't be repaired with spackle, I'm not going to try it.) I've looked at quite a few anchors; but most (toggles, mollies, and the like) of them seem to assume a standard(?) 1/2-inch thick sheet, or so. All the ones I have certainly do. I don't want to fall back on using plastic-expansion plugs, if I can avoid it; I hear they're extremely unreliable. Does anybody know if high-shear-capacity drywall anchors exist that latch onto double-thickness drywall? Or have other advice for me? (For context: I'm installing a large shelving system, that should ideally be able to support quite a bit of weight.) <Q> It's not unusual for the wall between tenants to be made with an extra layer of drywall. <S> The Snaptoggle will work in those walls: It will easily handle the thickness you're dealing with, and it's easier to work with than regular old fashioned toggles. <A> I think this question warrants an answer with a healthy dose of caution: Shelves for supporting a lot of weight should not be supported via drywall! <S> Given that there is a party wall, if this is a condo, the walls may very well be made using steel studs. <S> Depending on the gauge of steel studs, they may be able to support a wall shelf system, but maybe not. <S> The other issue is that you shouldn't put holes in party walls without permission . <S> A party wall is shared property and your lease or title likely has some conditions pertaining what can and can not be done to a party wall on your own. <S> The two main reasons to be cautious is fire codes (the double sheetrock is to meet shared wall fire codes and putting a hole in it defeats that) and sound (ideally, the party wall is fairly soundproof between units...creating holes, as well as attaching items to framing will allow more sound transmittance). <S> Suggestion: <S> Consider a floor-based shelving system. <S> Many of the wall shelving systems on the market also have the option to convert them to freestanding. <S> Ikea's system, for example, can be installed with feet to make it freestanding: <A> I'm not sure what the big problem is with using a basic toggle bolt. <A> EZ anchor is for sale at Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware. <S> These are rated for 50 pounds. <S> Stanley Supply online also has these. <S> If you can determine the width of your dry wall:it should be 1/2 + 1/2 or 5/8 + 5/8--then <S> your anchor should be a length of 1 to 1/4 inch. <S> If your shelves are not subjected to movement the anchors should hold well. <S> Youcan also supply wood stripping on top of the drywall and at least get those to anchor into the stud positions. <S> Wood strips would be the width of the opening (closet opening). <S> If these do not match your anchor positions (if these are predetermined by your shelving) then you can go vertical strips. <S> What is the width and height of your closets. <A> Well if you ask me there are two possible approaches: <S> If you insist on mounting shelves onto the wall you can do following: cut part of the dry wall from top to bottom in two places. <S> I’m sure that there is some metal construction inside, and then add vertical elements specially designed for load bearing. <S> Knauf and other call it "AU profile”. <S> They look like standard sub construction for drywall except the fact that they are made out of steel and are a bit bigger. <S> Then you just put them inside dry wall and connect them with horizontal elements, preferably both on the bottom and top of the wall. <S> In order to connect them use specialized elements which are "L" shaped. <S> Then just put new dry wall on the places where you made a holes and that's it. <S> Other solution is different approach <S> but, if you ask me far more easier and elegant: shelves construction can be completely separated from wall; what I want to say is that shelves are not mounted on the wall (in load bearing sense) but it has its own load bearing elements and it is just placed on the wall. <S> If you have additional questions don't hesitate to ask.
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Structural shelves need to be supported by proper framing...namely the studs within the wall. All you would have to do is buy a longer bolt for the double thick dry wall.
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What is this pipe coming up out of our driveway? Bought a house last week, which -- Canadian winter -- had been mightily surrounded by snow, including in the driveway. Today, with the snow melting, I saw this in front of the garage door. It extends about 2" up past the driveway surface. The cap on the pipe is black and has some sort of little handle on it. It comes off very easily, and underneath there's about 8' to 10' of pipe (I think? I'm lousy at eyeballing things), rimed with frost, leading to what looks like standing water. The fact that there's a big ol' PVC (or something) pipe jutting several inches out of the driveway in front of the garage is kind of annoying, but not having any idea what's going on here (sewer vent? In my driveway?) is more annoying. What's this pipe doing here? What's it for? Can I chop it down, fill it in, seal it shut? <Q> It's a cleanout for the sewer line. <S> You can shorten it to grade level, but you cannot remove or pave over it. <S> You'll probably never need it, but if you do, you'll want quick access to it. <A> Another option in addition to the other answers is a cleanout/inspection line for the weeping system. <S> If you're far enough north that there's still ice in mid-March, weeping systems are a must-have to prevent foundation damage from frost heaves. <S> Quick test; if it smells like sewer gas, it's a sanitary sewer cleanout. <S> If it smells like earth, mildew or just stagnant water, it's probably the weeping system which feeds to the storm sewer. <A> Closing the loop on this, years later -- it was kind of a cleanout. <S> Our neighbour two doors down started having sewer backups in her basement, and it was determined that three houses were all on the same outflow pipe, coming under my driveway, with a crushed pipe more or less where this cleanout was. <S> We split the cost for the fix (all three houses) since we shared the pipe. <S> After they dug up my driveway this was clearly a system created by some sort of lunatic cheapskate former house owner: it was a bunch of PVC pipe held together with clothes hangers and duct tape underneath the whole system. <S> The entire "cleanout" pipe was pointless and unnecessary. <S> It's gone now. <A> Filling it in and sealing it shut (more than the removable cap) would be foolish without positive identification. <S> It has probably heaved itself up from a formerly level with the surface installation. <S> Try asking the seller, first. <S> The color is commonly sewer pipe, but that's no guarantee. <S> If you can shine a light down and see the water, you could flush some dye and see if you see color. <A> To double check; have a helper flush a toilet while you listen for running water with the cap removed. <S> My first thought when I viewed the photo was that it was a field drain with the grate removed and someone used a test cap to cover the opening.
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If it's a sewer cleanout you should be able to detect noxious gasses emanating from the pipe once the cap is removed. I wouldn't go any further than shortening it slightly without first actually figuring out what it is - where local inspection is going to have significant advantages over the ponderings of the internet.
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Will the original ceiling box in my 1939 home support a new 45lb chandelier? I recently purchased in a house built in 1939. The electrical boxes and wiring have been replaced, but the ceiling support bar holding up the box looks original (i.e., flat steel bar attached to the joists). Can this support the new 45 lbs chandelier I want to hang? The following picture (NOT from my house) is an example of my situation, but I do not have access above the ceiling like the picture. <Q> If the support is as you illustrated, the weight is being held by screws through the support and vertically into the ceiling joist. <S> The load is being held up by screws pointed upward. <S> The strain is downward. <S> All that is holding up the weight is the wood around the threads of two (or maybe four) screws. <S> In general, wood screws do best when the load is shear (perpendicular to the direction of the screw). <S> Pullout loads are especially vulnerable in older wood that may be deteriorating over time and getting powdery. <S> 1939 is not so old comparatively, but this situation is not ideal. <S> You might want to consider a replacement box and support that wedges between two joists such as this one . <S> On 16" centers, they are rated for up to 150 lbs and 50 lbs. <S> on 24" centers. <S> For fans, they are rated for less (70lbs. <S> on 16") because of dynamic stresses. <S> These can be inserted in a 4" hole. <S> Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> You are probably right, but double-check your box! <S> as per NEC 314.27(C): <S> (C) Boxes at Ceiling-Suspended (Paddle) Fan Outlets. <S> Outlet boxes or outlet box systems used as the sole support of a ceiling- <S> suspended (paddle) fan shall be listed, shall be marked by their manufacturer as suitable for this purpose, and shall not support ceiling-suspended (paddle) <S> fans that weigh more than 32 kg (70 lb). <S> For outlet boxes or outlet box systems designed to support ceiling-suspended (paddle) fans that weigh more than 16 kg (35 lb), the required marking shall include the maximum weight to be supported. <S> Where spare, separately switched, ungrounded conductors are provided to a ceiling-mounted outlet box, <S> in a location acceptable for a ceiling-suspended (paddle) fan in single-family, two-family, or multi-family dwellings, the outlet box or outlet box system shall be listed for sole support of a ceiling- <S> suspended (paddle) fan. <A> I would add a 2x4. <S> Run it across your joists, screw into joists, and then a couple of screws through your box. <S> You just need a scrap 2x4 and long screws. <S> , really it looks like drywall is holding it up right now. <A> No the box and support system is not rated for 45lb Chandelier. <S> Because you do not have access to box, you can cut a little bit bigger hole and remove the old box and support system. <S> Then install a Retrofit Ceiling Fan Saf-T-Brace. <S> UL listed to support lighting fixtures 150 lbs. <S> or less on 16 in. <S> centers and 50 lbs. <S> or less on 24 in. <S> centers <S> ; supports fans 70 lbs. <S> or less. <S> If the hole is to big for the new chandelier canopy then install a ceiling medallion to hide the hole then install the chandelier.
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If your box has a ceiling stud present, then it should support the weight it is listed for (often 50lbs, but check the markings on the box!) I wouldn't rely on nailed up box to support 45 pounds for an extended time
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Shower floods behind the wall. on pre-formed shower/bath and ONLY when the shower is turned on No previous leaks were found, but one morning the kitchen floor (on the other side of the bathroom wall) flooded when the shower was turned on. It's a high-usage shower, used for a minimum of 2-3 showers a day. Suddenly it just started flooding, but the bath is not showing any signs of a leak. What is the most likely issue? Could it be the pipe above the faucet? <Q> These trim pieces usually come with a cheap foam gasket, which crumbles apart after a while. <S> Then water runs down the wall, gets behind the trim, and goes into the wall. <S> When you take the trim pieces off, if the gaskets look bad, scrape them off and replace them with a bead of plumber's putty, which works much better than foam gaskets and lasts forever. <S> Form the bead all the way around the trim, but leave a little opening at the bottom of the trim; that way, if some water does get behind the trim somehow, it will have a chance to escape, rather than accumulate behind the trim. <A> Remove all the trim covering the valve assembly/s (handles, escutcheons, trim plates, etc). <S> Inspect (with flashlight) for signs of leak source and moisture. <S> Turn valve <S> /s on whilst inspecting to see if there is a leak associated with the actual valve/s assembly <S> /s. <S> If you cannot at least get a general idea of where the leak is coming from I am afraid that you will need to open the wall on the opposite side (kitchen?) <S> to create an access point from which to conduct a more thorough inspection. <S> Cut an inspection hole and take a look. <S> If you then provide pictures of the leak mechanism then many helpful persons on this site will guide you through the repair process. <A> If the leak occurs only when the shower is on, then the leak is after the tap and before the shower head.
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The easiest and first thing to check is the trim pieces around your valve knob(s). Look for source of water.
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Is there a way to deal with mold built up on the washer bellow tub? It looks like people who used to live in the house before us would keep the washer closed for extended periods of time and here's the result. I suspect it also contributes to odor issues the house sometimes has when not ventilated for a couple of days. I tried a mold solution (mildew stain removal) from Home Depot, but it didn't help. I also found replacement tub, but it's $100+, so I would like to try find other ways before replacing it. (It probably makes sense to replace the whole thing if it comes to spending $100+.) <Q> I once moved into a place with this problem. <S> The clothes absolutely stank after washing. <S> The gasket/seal (not sure what to call it) was visibly stained with mold, but I could not be sure if the bad smell or the spores or what it was came from the gasket or from some other parts inside the machine. <S> I guess the "outer tub" surrounding the "perforated rotating inner tub" (aka drum, aka basket) is likely to also be stained, when the gasket is. <S> I did everything I could without disassembling the machine, and nothing helped. <S> Cleaned all accessible parts with detergents and clorine Washed several times on 90 degrees, first with lots of detergent, and then with clorine <S> (I guess washing clorine at this temperature may produce toxic gasses, but this washer was in a tool shed <S> so I took the chance) <S> Washed with some anti mold agent <S> Nothing helped. <S> The mold in the gasket got less visible, but was still hard to not notice, but the smell never got better. <S> As far as I remember I could not smell anything from the machine itself, and when I took out my clothes it smelled ok, but then I hung it to dry indoors, and within an hour the whole room stank. <S> It might be possible to fix it by disassembling it, I would not know about that. <A> I would use acid if it was me. <S> Vinegar is one kind of acid. <S> In the US there is a cleaner called CLR that has lactic and gluconic acid in it. <A> What eventually helped (or maybe it was a combination of factors) after trying pretty much everything from <S> this article was 3 or 4 rounds with Affresh . <S> (You can buy it almost anywhere, like Walgreens, Home Depot etc.) <S> It looks like the mold on the outside was only a part of the problem and the real one (And the source of smell) was probably inside. <S> After two rounds I could see a difference and after another one or two seems like the inside part was completely gone. <S> The outside mold (what's on the picture) is still there, but interestingly, it's slowly starting to disappear. <S> After a couple of months I can totally say that there has been no odor at all and the mold is barely visible anymore.
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You can also buy hydrochloric acid at some hardware stores.
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Is it legal to wire a bath fan using load from top of GFI outlet? Purchased a place and we are re-wiring the bathroom and putting in a standing shower. The bathroom is quite small so there is just enough room for this. There is a dedicated circuit, a round box above the medicine cabinet for a bar light, and a shower fan+light above the shower rough-in. They are both fed from a box near the sink which contains a double switch and a GFI outlet. The top of the double switch will control the vanity light, and the bottom will control the fan+light. I was told that it is illegal [in PA] to wire the shower fan+light using power tapped from the GFI outlet. Is this true? Essentially, if the bath fan+light were to short [water] it would trip the GFI found near the sink....or vice versa if the GFI outlet is tripped from water [hair dryer]. Since the vanity light would not be behind the GFI, it would stay on if a trip occurred....or i could wire that GFI too if needed. If this is illegal, is there an alternate way to protect the fan with GFI without running ~30 feet more wire to a GFI breaker? This seems extremely overkill to run all that for just a bath fan that is already designed to function in a steamy environment tapped from a GFI that is already there. Thanks. <Q> The real answer is "it depends on what else that circuit does". <S> According to the NEC, if your outlet circuit goes to more than one bathroom, powering the fan/light from it is a violation. <S> If it's only in that bathroom, you may be able to do this without violating code, but I'd recommend consulting a licensed electrician for advice, if nothing else. <A> Bath Fan above shower (or tub)-- per code, must be "rated" for use in wet area/above shower (will be listed on the packaging/instructions of the Fan/light). <S> All such fans I'm familiar with also require GFI protection. <S> So answer is to put fan either on "load" side of existing bath GFI protection (assuming no other bathroom GFIs connected to that circuit) or to install a separate GFI (aka "blank" or "no face" GFI) in a separate outlet box (or enlarge outlet box with existing GFI) off the line that feeds the existing GFI. <A> Just pigtail the wires (hot and neutral both) before the GFCI, and don't feed the fan through the GFCI, and you'll be fine. <S> Having said that, if you really want to protect the fan with GFCI, just pigtail the wires (both hot and neutral) off the load side of the GFCI device to feed the fan.
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Outlets in the bathroom need to be protected with a GFCI, but the lights and fan do not need to be.
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Second toilet runs after first one flushed? When our one toilet is flushed, the other toilet will run for a short time? II have drained the tank and cleaned around the flap. <Q> Sounds like a problem unrelated to the flapper. <S> The "running" you hear is likely the fill valve. <S> I have seen this happen before and a rebuild of the fill valve washers (or fill valve replacement) should fix it. <S> Try shutting off the supply to the suspect fill valve and open it up. <S> Inspect the valve washers for debris, lime, scale, mineral deposits. <S> Flush the valve by cracking open the water supply while it is disassembled. <S> If the valve washers are worn or soft (if you get black stuff on your fingers when touching them) they need replacing. <A> I agree with jimmy that it is the fill valve and not the flapper. <S> The problem is one of water pressure. <S> The fill valve has a float, and this applies pressure to close the water flow into the tank. <S> The idea is that the valve fills up the tank to a certain level of water, and will stop. <S> This is almost, but not quite, how it works. <S> The tank fills until the float has enough strength to close the valve. <S> The water stops when the cold water pressure is the same as the strength of the float to stop the water. <S> When you flush the first toilet, it makes the cold water pressure fall. <S> This is the same thing that happens when you flush a toilet and the shower gets cold. <S> Like Jimmy says, because of debris and bad washers, the valve can open a little, just enough that the water runs for a few seconds. <S> Unless you ignore it, then there is so much debris, or the washers as so worn, it will run all the time. <S> Because the float is never gets as strong as the water pressure. <A> If the above does not cure the problem, it may be that the vent for the second toilet is blocked or non existant. <S> The water draining from the first toilet will cause a vacumn in the drain line of the second toilet causing that's toilet water seal to be sucked down the drain resulting in the start of the re-fill cycle. <S> It generally will not be a flapper valve problem. <S> Does this happen to both toilets? <S> In other words, does this happen when either of the toilets are flushed, does the other toilet "flush? <A> Is it old? <S> A modern diaphragm style valve might fix that, as it uses the actual water pressure to seal the valve; not just the wonky operation of a float on a stick. <S> It does have a float, but it only works a very tiny valve that works the big one. <S> Kind of like a touch lamp vs a pull chain light. <S> The reason could still be a very slow leak at the flapper, the flapper seat if that assembly is removable, or around the fill valve that evaporates or runs down the tube through the hole in the floor. <S> Mark the full water level with a crayon, check back later
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Perhaps the fluctuation of your water supply pressure when one toilet's fill valve opens is causing the other toilet fill valve to momentarily leak-by or open.
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Locating buried electrical cable/conduit in yard Our house, which we purchased about a year ago, has a shed in the back of the yard which has electricity and is roughly 100 ft away from the main house. From what I can tell the previous owner had cable run to the shed through a conduit that exits the house at the closest exterior corner. I see the same conduit exiting the house and entering the shed. My problem is that I have no idea what path the previous owner took to run the cable out to the shed, or if the conduit is even at code rated depth, and we're looking to do some landscaping and possible run a water line out near the shed. I'm assuming 811 isn't going to locate privately run cables in the ground, so is there a tool or service I can use for this? Just based on the unknowns I would prefer to stay away from the conduit entirely. <Q> Step zero - to reduce any nerves associated with digging, turn off the breaker supplying the shed at the house end. <S> Step one - assume a straight line from the endpoints you can see, as the most likely path in many cases. <S> Dig a little bit, carefully, along the conduit as it enters the ground, and see if the direction it points underground matches up. <S> Step two - very carefully go prospecting along the straight line. <S> Try close to one end and dig with a trowel or very gently with a shovel, looking to see if they were smart enough to put "buried electric line below" tape in the top of the trench. <S> Not would be no surprise, having it would be a helpful and pleasant surprise. <S> You'll also get a sense of the depth, and whether they used conduit the whole way or not. <S> You may also see a different backfilling (soil type) <S> the immediate area of the conduit, which you can use as a clue later. <S> Step three - go further out and dig again - go to the middle if step two supports the "straight line" path. <S> It's tricky enough to use (sorting out confusing signals, etc.) <S> that the experienced operator might be better, but DIY can work. <S> Check with your tool rental place. <S> Something like location service might be a heading to look for a contractor, or you might ask the irrigation folks if they know who to call. <A> It is often possible to confirm the location of buried AC power cables by sending a low frequency signal down one of the lines and picking it up from the surface with an AM radio dialed to the lower range of the AM band. <S> A strong signal can be induced by winding a narrow gauge wire (18 or 20 gauge) half a dozen times around the spark plug cable of a four-stroke engine (lawnmower or other), attached the other end of the narrow gauge wire to one end of the (disconnected from power) cable that you want to find, started the lawn mower, then sweep the portable AM radio over the ground surface near the location you know it is buried -such as where it leaves the house or enters the shed. <S> The mower magneto induces a signal onto the buried 2.0-gauge cable which the AM radio picks up as an identifiable pulsed static. <A> Different models can find wire down to 2-3 ft if used properly by an experienced person. <S> Source: I use metal detectors.
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You can track the signal over the ground surface if you stay right above the cable and it is not buried to deep. Alternate step one - hire a private contractor to trace the line, or try renting equipment to do the same yourself. You can use a metal detector, but find someone who knows how to use it.
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Should I use a timer or motion sensor in my hot water recirculation system? I want to get a hot water recirculation line added to a house. plumber is proposing a timer to turn on/off the pump. I'm thinking a motion sensor method would be better. are these even common and how do most people install them in terms of where to put sensor(s). this is for a single story 2 bath house. would it be best to have a sensor in each bathroom as well as kitchen? <Q> Timer: the other way is too slow in many cases. <S> Using this chart of water contents(gallons per foot), we see that a 3/4" pipe of 70 feet has around 1.75 gallons of water in it. <S> Using the fact that a lavatory sink emits out either 1 or 1.5 gpm, split between the hot and cold water pipes, means that it will take 1-2 minutes for the hot water to reach the tap, making the system useless. <S> A timer can circulate the water relatively quickly ever few minutes and then turn off, trading some electricity for your time. <S> The motion sensor won't have enough time to circulate the water before you need it. <S> Nominal Pipe Size(in) <S> Water Content (Gallons/ <S> ft)Type <S> K Type L <S> Type M1/8 <S> 0.0014 <S> 0.0016 <S> 0.00161/4 <S> 0.0039 <S> 0.0040 <S> 0.00433/8 <S> 0.0066 <S> 0.0075 <S> 0.00831/2 <S> 0.0113 <S> 0.0121 0.01325/8 <S> 0.0173 <S> 0.0181 <S> 0.01943/4 <S> 0.0226 <S> 0.0251 <S> 0.02681 <S> 0.0404 <S> 0.0429 <S> 0.0454 <S> http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/water-content-steel-copper-pipes-tubes-d_1617.html http://www.epa.gov/WaterSense/pubs/faq_bs.html <A> I have also seen "thermo-siphon" set-ups with no pump. <S> I have never seen one hooked to a motion sensor. <S> If your intent is to save energy by having the pump cycle on only when someone enters the bath/s or kitchen, I am thinking it would come on so often that it would defeat that purpose. <S> Every time someone enters the bath or kitchen it cycles on, so it runs practically all the time anyway, and you have a power spike due to inductive load (and a lot of wear and tear) each time it kicks on. <S> Multiple motion sensors might be a problem also, might you have to set up some type of relay system or a 4-way circuit? <S> Maybe use the normal thermostat, wired through a timer. <S> It should be rather simple to set up and you could keep it from coming on when you know you do not need it (like at night). <A> The most unusual solution I have ever seen this problem is a manual version of what you suggest. <S> They had installed a 'doorbell' system. <S> The button was slightly hidden, under the lip of the counter, or some other convent place <S> The 'ding-dong' part was replaced with a low voltage relay connected to the hot water circulation pump. <S> Before tap was turned on, you the button for a short time. <S> (the kitchen was count to 6) <S> JimmyFix-it's comment about the thermostat control is the most common by far. <S> His remark about pipe of your choice and vacation switch are both good. <S> The motion sensor, I like the idea, but it is likely the overkill geek in me. <S> Again jimmy and the false positive thought seems right. <S> There is the idea of motion sensor that points at a place that you have to think about, a small area under the counter, easy to find, but not easy to use by accident. <S> I think the easiest idea is the remote thermostat. <S> The next one would be a low voltage button, that started a 30 second timer for the pump. <A> I am currently in the process of installing re-circulation pumps (2 of them) in our new home <S> and I believe the best fit for us will be motion sensor switches coupled with thermostatic valves under each sink. <S> Before you install a pump however, you should know that by installing a re-circulating pump, you raise the water pressure by at least 5 psi. <S> this is required to force the water back into the cold water line and back into the hot water tank. <S> I have a pump under each sink and a motion sensor switch in each of the rooms. <S> I took one of those motion sensor wall switches that turns on the lights when you enter the room, which leaves the lights on for a few minutes (make sure wattage rating is appropriate for your pump) and wired it in as the main power switch for the receptacle to where the pump is plugged into. <S> I put the sensor/switch by the sink (minimal required distance from water taps) and left the pump/timer switch on the pump to "always ON", so when we are near the sink, the pump will have power and recirculate the water, only if needed of course, depending on the thermostatic valve under the sink, which came with my Bur-Cam Genie re-circulation pump. <S> This will circulate hot water only when we are in the kitchen or bathroom and only if the temperature of the water in the pipe is below the thermostatic valve's setting. <S> This way, the pump will never come on if we are not home or not using any of those rooms when we are at home. <S> I know this solution requires a separate pump for each room, but it also saves energy as it only recirculates the water in those pipes for the room you are in. <S> With the single pump installed at the hot water tank, you would be constantly recirculating water to all sinks where a thermostatic valve is installed.
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Most common (in my area) is a thermostat control that mounts on a pipe of your choosing, with a "vacation" switch to shut down the pump during extended absences.
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How to handle ground and neutral in multi gang box containing both branch and traveler further down on same branch? I have a 15 amp branch circuit where the first box from the breaker contains a switch for a ceiling light at the door leading to the garage. This box supplies the rest of the branch. On the same branch at the opposite corner of the room I am adding trailer circuits for multipoint switches located at each entry point to the room to control new recessed lighting fixtures . These trailer wires end back at the garage door where I am replacing the first box with a multi gang box. This box will now contain the switch for the existing ceiling fixture, feed the rest of the branch, and also be the end point for the trailer wires where they connect to the load through the final S3 in each chain. This ends up making a big loop with sub branches branching off in the middle. I have included a diagram for clarity. The question is, how do I handle the neutral and ground connections in this box (Multi gang box combining B1 and B5). I am inclined to wire the neutrals and grounds as if they were still in separate boxes but everything I've looked at seems to indicate I should wire all the neutrals together and all the grounds together. Does anybody know the correct approach? <Q> I'm guessing your wiring looks something like this. <S> So if you also draw the grounded (neutral) conductors, it looks something like this. <S> Drawing it like this you can clearly see, if you connect the grounded (neutral) conductors in box 5 (B5) to the grounded (neutral) in box 1 (B1), you'll have a giant loop. <S> It shouldn't cause any problems, electrically speaking. <S> Your electrons will just be able to take different routes back home. <S> To avoid paralleled conductors, you should wire the circuit as shown in the second image above. <S> Notice that the grounded (neutral) conductors are kept separate from box B3 on. <A> What you will want to do in your case, instead of nutting all the neutrals together (which is technically a 310.10(H) violation!), is keep the neutral from the breaker at B1 and going to B2 and the existing light fixture separate from the neutrals coming in from B4 and going out to the two recessed-light circuits -- in other words, B1 and B5's neutrals are separate. <S> One other tip -- the power feed to all the lights should come from the unswitched hot in B3. <S> Otherwise, you wind up having to return the switched hots for the two four-way loops back through B4 and B5 from B3, leaving you without a neutral wire in those cables unless you switched the 14/3 for those runs out for 14/4. <S> Using the netural from the three-way loop isn't an option because it'd create a large, annoying current loop that could interfere with the operation of timer or electronic switches that require the neutral at the switch box. <A> All fed from one breaker... <S> all neutrals together, all grounds together. <S> That's how I was taught.
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However, as ThreePhaseEel points out, paralleling conductors in this way would be a code violation. Also, in boxes B4 and B5, keep the neutrals separated from each other as per Tester101's revised illustration -- again, NEC 310.10(H) applies.
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Attaching non-load bearing walls to steel I-beams I'm preparing to remodel my basement. A steel I-beam runs the length the of the basement with vertical steel columns spaced periodically across the span. The beam is 5" wide and 8" tall. I'm considering constructing a 2x4, non-load bearing wall directly under the beam but I'm not sure how to attach the 2x4 framing to the underside of the beam. Here's a picture of the beam: How can I attach a 2x4 wall frame to the underside of a steel I-beam. <Q> You have a few options. <S> Frame around the beam. <S> This is probably the easiest method, though it changes the dimensions of the room slightly. <S> Simply build your wall either in front of, or behind the beam. <S> Attach the top plate to the joists. <S> You could weld threaded, or non-threaded rods (studs) to the bottom of the beam. <S> Then drill holes in the top plate to align with the rods (studs). <S> If you used threaded rods, use a washer and nut to attach the top plate. <S> Nuts and Bolts Drill holes through the top plate and the beam flange, then use nuts and bolts to attach the top plate. <S> Powder actuated fasteners <S> You could use powder-actuated fasteners to attach the top plate to the beam. <S> WARNING: <S> For any method that alters the beam in any way, consult an engineer for fastener schedule, size, and placement. <A> Notice that sill plate sitting on top of the beam? <S> Held on with some nails hammered part of the way in, then bent over the flange? <S> Do the same with your top plate. <S> The sill plate has the advantage of gravity holding it in place, so you'll probably want to put more bent nails in, especially if you'll have kids down there playing who may be running into it. <S> Since the wall's not load bearing, it just has to stay vertical, and that should do it. <S> To address Tester101's valid concerns: You will need to use a 2x6 to match up with the width of the beam. <S> You can build the 2 x 4 wall to one side of the 2x6 and have all the 'ledge' on the other side (suitable for the utility room side, if there is one), or you could center it and have a small bump on either side. <S> If you go for the uneven build, you'll get an offset of (5 1/4" - 3 1/4") 2" on one side. <S> If you drywall that, the sheetrock will take 1/2 - 3/4" of an inch. <S> If you center the support wall, you'd have 1" on each side leaving 1/4 - 1/2" after dry walling (depending on thickness). <A> build your wall on one side or other securing top and bottom plate so beam and wall don't move. <S> on the other side use I joist to box in or wood <S> frame it in or use of steel channels to enclose it.
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Weld studs to the beam You could, of course, build the whole wall out of 2x6, and that resolves all the above issues.
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How can I attach structure via oval holes in panel struts in a panel van? I am trying to build storage for a panel van. My problem is how to make use of pre-existing holes for attaching bolts to. The loading space in the van has vertical structural beams which have holes that I would like to use to secure the storage. The holes are shaped something like this: It is not easy to reach behind those holes - basically only via other similar holes some distance apart. Otherwise I might have used a particularly large penny washer and put a bolt through it. The distance behind the holes to the van's external panels is approx 25-35mm depending on location. Is there a trick that professionals use to attach things to these holes? I presume that's what these holes are for in the first place? The only alternative I can think of is drilling new holes and using a tap to thread them to accept a bolt directly. Edit: Thank you for everyone's suggestions/answers. Lots of fresh ideas which I will pick out bits of and combine for my solution. Could not choose an individual answer, so up-voted all helpful contributing answers! <Q> This is sort of a modification of what @FreeMan said, but what I would suggest is you get bolts with flat washers, where the flat washer is less than 20mm diameter <S> so it will fit through the hole. <S> The head of the bolt will need to be smaller than the flat washer (obviously). <S> You will need six pieces total per mounting bolt, including the bolt itself. <S> Put them together in this order: bolt, flat washer, flat washer, (supported structure), flat washer, lock (or split) washer, non-self locking nut. <S> The bolt itself will need to be long enough to accommodate whatever you are going to mount to the vertical structural beams. <S> It would look something like this when put together on the beam: <S> ( NOTE: <S> This is a quick PowerPoint rendering and is not to scale by any means.) <S> The idea here is to use the bottom half of the washers to grab the wall support. <S> About 1/3 of the washers would be grabbing the wall support, but this will be more than enough to hold it in place. <S> Of course, you'd want to choose the correct length of bolt so it doesn't protrude very far. <S> The lock washer is there so you can tighten the bolt from the nut end without the need for a wrench on the other end, <S> and so it will stay put once it's tightened. <S> If this is a permanent fixture, you could also put thread locker on the nut to ensure it stays put. <S> EDIT NOTE: <S> If you are looking for added holding power, move the bolt to the left or right in the hole. <S> This will provide the side and bottom of the hole for something the bolt/washer/nut can hold onto. <A> If this is a custom (read home made) set up the way it is typically done is to attach either furring strips or 3/4" panels to the ribs or frame supports. <S> Use self tapping sheet metal screws to attach the wood to the walls. <S> Then use what ever fastener is appropriate to anchor the shelves to the wood. <S> After reading you comments, can you drill a pair of horizontal holes in the frame/rib. <S> Then get the "U" bolt thru both holes and clamp it around the square tubing? <A> Find a bolt with a similarly sized and shaped head that can go in through the hole, then turn 90°. <S> Tighten it in place with a washer and bolt on the inside of the van to lock the bolt to the van. <S> Everything else then bolts to these. <S> If you can't find suitably shaped, oval headed bolts, a 30mm round bolt head or a smaller bolt plus a washer could be ground down to the oval shape. <S> The advantage here is that you're not putting additional holes in your sheet metal which opens it up for the potential of rust. <A> If you could find them with a head size that's just right, you could use something like toilet flange bolts. <S> Where the head of the bolt is ovular, and could be turned once in the hole.
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If you find that the bolt still moves without a wrench on the other end, you can put a lock washer between the bolt head and the flat washer, but I've found on blind holes like this, if you just hold the threaded end of the bolt with your fingers and use an open ended wrench to turn the nut, the bolt will tighten down without issues.
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Is it advisable to paint interior walls with a sprayer? We just purchased a house and before moving in we want to paint all the rooms: 4 bedrooms, living room, kitchen, and family room (2000 sft home). Being we want to be as efficient as possible I had looked into using a power sprayer. I've read both pros and cons on doing this so hoping to seek some answers from people here that have done this before. So, using a sprayer inside, yes or no? If yes, what tips and precautions would you suggest? <Q> Pro: Quick TO PAINT. <S> ONLY. <S> Floors, windows, toilets, sinks, outlets, switches, lights, the works. <S> Con: not good if you want more than one color, or yet more masking needed. <S> Apartment complexes that paint everything white and replace the carpets (and nearly everything is carpeted) afterwards find them "efficient" - most other people get the whole job done a lot faster with a roller and brushes. <A> When I did my house, I used a sprayer. <S> But everything was getting ripped out, floors, doors, trim and light fixtures. <S> Masking was simple because of this and being able to do the entire house in about 8 hours of work over two days paid for the extra paint and sprayer. <S> This was a coat of primer and 1 to 2 coats of paint. <S> The 3 rooms I didn't spray was the kitchen and bathrooms. <S> When I say extra paint, I mean extra paint. <S> I used about 25% more paint than I would have if I used a brush and roller. <A> If you plan on doing A LOT* of painting, then yes; use a paint pump with a roller attachment. <S> Electric Airless Paint Sprayer: <S> ( runyonrental.com ) <S> * <S> A LOT= <S> You are a painter or a landlord. <S> Breaking down and cleaning these systems can take hours (if you expect it to work the next time).
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If was going to repaint a room now, I would go with a brush and roller. Con: you have to mask everything, but EVERYTHING, you don't want covered in paint.
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Should I be calling a plumber or someone from my water supply company to test for contaminents in my water? I have one bathroom where the hot shower water has a sulfur-like odor to it on most days and I'd like to have someone come and check it out but I'm not positive on who to call. <Q> If you are on a public water supply, there may be water test results already published on a quarterly basis. <S> If you are doing your own testing, generally an environmental testing company or consultant (rather than a plumber) - in many cases you can save money if you can follow directions carefully and take the samples yourself, for testing at their laboratory, rather than having a consultant come and take the samples for you. <A> As @tyler durden comments, this may be an issue with the drain, but it is very unlikely that there is no trap. <S> A more likely scenario is that a partial blockage or obstruction of either the drain line or a vent line is causing a siphon action that is preventing the trap from maintaining a water seal. <S> Another possibility is that one or more drains have been added (or the drain configuration has been changed), causing inadequate venting and/or siphoning. <A> Sulfur smell is often caused by degradation of the sacrificial anodes in the hot water heating system.
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If it's ONLY the one bathroom, it's more likely something in your pipes than in the general water supply.
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2 15 amp breakers to 1 30 amp I have a wired garage that has 3 wire 10 gauge going in to it. In the panel this wire is hooked up to 2 individual 15 amp breakers. I want to know if i can put in a 30 amp breaker in that spot. The Garage has a 240V heater and 115V plugs and lighting. <Q> I just want to clarify what you're asking. <S> You have a sub-panel in your garage. <S> How large is the breaker feeding this sub-panel? <S> (located in your house) <S> This sub-panel in the garage, has two 15a breakers, one of which is connected to the red, one to the black wire in a run of 10-3 wire. <S> What does this circuit power? <S> I'd assume your 240v heater? <S> Is there anything else connected to this circuit? <S> Since it's 10 gauge wire (as I understand from your post), it can be used with a 30a breaker, but it will need to be a 240v 30a breaker, there can't be any branches off this circuit with smaller wire, and only if your heater is rated for 30a. <S> Now, do you need 30a? <S> What is the requirement for your heater? <S> There's nothing wrong with oversized wiring, and if you're not tripping any breakers, it might not need to be changed. <S> YOu WILL need to make sure both 15a breakers are tied together, but that's it. <A> No, it seems like each phase is wired to 15A putting a single 30A breaker wold pull 30A from one phase, only give you 115V and pull no current from the other phase. <A> If the two individual breakers are not tied together (e.g. both levers are physically connected), then your current setup is incorrect and unsafe. <S> Both hot wires need to be tied together so they won't be tripped/switched off independently. <S> You should replace the two individual breakers with a 240v breaker. <S> If your outlets are connected with 14 gauge wire (likely), then it is not safe to put in more than 15A breaker. <S> The outlets themselves are likely NEMA 5-15 sockets, which are rated for 20A and thus would not allow more than a 20A breaker. <S> To use a 30 amp breaker, you would need to replace all outlets with NEMA 5-30 sockets and ensure they are connected with 10 guage wire.
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It is only safe for said 240v breaker to be a 30 amp breaker if all wires and outlets on the entire circuit are 10 gauge.
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Which parts are missing from this vintage lockset? I'd like to get this lockset back into working order on a vintage 1-3/8" interior door with 2-3/8" backset, but do not know which parts are missing. Here is what I do have: Also, either the door has twisted, or the walls have leaned. The door matches the stop fine on the hinge side and on the topside. There is no threshold. The bottom of the door on the lockset side stays away from the door-stop by 9/16". The painted door has a single flat panel in the frame. I suspect the panel is plywood. My thoughts for fixing this is to either cut a tapered filler strip to fill the gap between the door and the door stop, or cut one of the corner mortise/tenon joints in the door frame and re-glue with a counter-twist and kerf-filling dutchman, maybe spline the bottom. Any thoughts? <Q> I too wish you luck. <S> The parts you show are made from 'pot metal.' <S> Such parts have a short life in the best of times. <S> For older hardware on the cheap, I think ebay, the ReBuilding Center in Portland <S> http://rebuildingcenter.org/ or somewhere from here http://portlandonthecheap.com/homeimprovement.html would likely be your best chance <A> You definitely would not find any replacement parts for that passage set at a home improvement store. <S> Unfortunately, you may not have luck finding a replacement online either because there are such a wide variety of manufacturers, as well as models. <S> If you could find the name of the manufacturer, it would give you a fighting chance in being able to restore it. <S> The escutcheon plate is an Art Deco design, which means the passage set was most likely manufactured in the beginning of the 20th Century. <S> There may be an architectural salvage yard located near you. <S> These places have a wide array of building materials which have been salvaged from demolished buildings and remodels. <S> This would be a good starting point since the staff are usually quite knowledgeable, and would either be able to locate a replacement, or at least give you some information on it. <S> It would be a good idea to find a complete example instead of replacement parts if possible. <S> That way you can ensure that it will operate properly. <S> You can always keep the parts you have as replacements just in case you need them. <A> The part which are missing from this "lockset" -- are anything resembling a lock. <S> Did you mean knobset?
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Frankly, I'd rescue the knobs and the decorative escutcheon plates, and obtain a new mortise knobset or lockset for them to operate.
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How noticeable should the seam be on a quartz counter install? This is my first question on the DIY stack so be gentle with me! Background We just had new quartz counters installed in our kitchen renovation. We have done everything else our selves, but we figured we would use professionals for the counter top since we wanted to make sure it looked perfect. It is a medium sized L shaped counter area and due to the size of the counter the installer informed us that it would require two seams and gave us a few options for where they could locate the seams. We were a bit concerned about this but he assured us that you would not notice the seams unless you really looked for them. Fast forward a few weeks to the installation date. The counters looked FANTASTIC as they were being installed. Unfortunately, once the installers finished and were ready for us to sign the satisfaction form we took a look at the seams and they are very noticeable. We refused to sign the satisfaction form at this point in time because we wanted to investigate it further. Question How noticeable should the seams be for a quartz counter installation? Obviously this depends on the texture and color of the counter, but is it something that should ever be painfully obvious? Do the pictures below illustrate what can be expected for this type of counter? Update 1 Based on the feedback I received from this site, as well as a few other companies I contacted for consultation, I have determined that this is NOT the normal for this type of counter installation. The general consensus is: There is a pretty serious shade difference on either side of the seam which is not acceptable. There should only be a single seam for this type of installation. Most likely the company was trying to cut costs by using a single slab of the material. I have contacted the company that provided the counter tops and they are sending someone out to take a look at the counters and see if there is anything they can do. I will update this post again once we get to a final solution. Update 2 The company has been great to work with to resolve this issue. Unfortunately, because the counter was already cut they couldn't do anything about the double seams, which is annoying. However, they did have their crew out to my house twice to get the seams as minimal as possible (both look great now) and to fix a few chips in the counter. I would leave the following advice for anyone else having a counter install: Be sure to ask that the the company installing your counter use as few seams as possible. This is likely going to increase the material cost for the counter but is well worth it in the long run. Ask for opinions from the installer on your counter selection. The color we went with in this case is very difficult to install because the seams are very visible and it is difficult to mix the filler to match. This is the consensus we received from multiple installers. If we would have known this, we would have definitely gone with something that is easier to install. Think twice before going with Quartz. We went with the top of the line Quartz so it was very comparable from a cost standpoint to granite. We were sold on the fact that it is zero maintenance and is supposedly as durable as granite. Unfortunately, this is not the case. It is very difficult to clean well and it chips extremely easily. We have seen small chips from dropping a very light weight ceramic plate on the counter from ~1 foot. The plate didn't even chip or break! <Q> I wouldn't sign the form if you were told that you wouldn't be able to notice the seams. <S> As Jack says, they are in horrible locations. <S> But the #1 thing I am thinking about is I have had granite and quartz installed on at least 30-40 kitchens, with at least 15-20 Ls. <S> You have two sheets, not 3 and your seam <S> is in the corner. <S> If they are using smaller pieces they could easily be using leftovers from other jobs, maybe really costing them nothing more than labor. <S> I would have never allowed them to install 3 slabs there. <S> That is the biggest mistake. <S> I have had many many companies propose something like this, a couple with no-see guarantees. <S> I took two of them up on it in the beginning <S> and they both looked like yours. <S> Got the first one at 1/3 cost and told them to take the second one out. <S> Never did I go for the three slabs. <S> Now the other issue is the install itself. <S> To me - <S> and I am just seeing a picture - it looks like the slabs aren't exactly level with each other. <S> They may be off by 1/128th of an inch <S> but it looks like they are off. <S> Then you have the epoxy filler which was not mixed with a matching sparkle nor was it sanded/buffed properly at the site. <S> I have paid a lot for high quality quartz and don't have pictures but the seams are much smaller than yours and really you couldn't see them unless you put a spot light on them. <S> The question is did you get what you paid for. <S> Did this cost you $500-800 and you are expecting better? <S> If you paid full/normal cost you probably just need them to come take the counters. <S> You obviously aren't happy now. <S> Let me tell you by the looks of your seams, they aren't going to look this good in 3-4 years. <S> So you are seeing them in their best state. <A> The seam is pretty good, they chose a really bad spot to put it. <S> It should have been placed at the narrow spot in the first picture. <S> Never in the middle of a cabinet front, where you look at it every time you open the drawer in the picture. <S> That one should not even be there. <S> This installer was trying to get by with out getting into another slab, or not good planning, IMHO. <S> There has to some reason why the installer put the joint there, but whatever it is, the reason is not good enough. <S> Seams should only be at corners where the countertop changes directions, or if the run is over 8-10ft long with no cutouts for ovens or sinks, etc... and those are usually placed over the edges of the cabinets. <S> Sorry if I sound a little critical, this should not pass a quality work even if the joints are done well. <A> The join is done very well, better than most companies out there. <S> The problem is that the join should not be there at all. <S> I.e. one join for a L shape bench and two joins for a U shape bench. <S> The only time when the above does not apply is when your benchtop length is over 3000mm long since most slabs maximum length is only 3000mm. <S> Therefore, will need a join to extend the benchtop to over 3000mm. <S> However, if this is the reason why there is a join in your photo, then the company should have informed you before they installed the benchtop so that you are aware of it. <A> The seam is excellent. <S> If people want no seam they need corian or staron both better products than quartz imho. <S> The biggest issue here is how the product was sold. <S> Some patterns seam very well ( but never invisible) <S> also quartz chips very easily especially Caesar stone. <S> Higher end quartz and pattern like pebble are very easy to repair. <S> At least you don't have white it stains also. <S> But again most sales people have no idea how delicate this product is.
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There should only be 1 join per "corner" of a bench.
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Can I mix latex paint into concrete would like to color concrete mix can I use outdoor latex paint to mix in with the concrete? <Q> While you probably could , this wouldn't be a good way to try and match a color. <S> It would likely effect the setting performance of the concrete and you'd never match the color of the paint. <S> On top of everything else, it would be much more expensive than the alternatives - <S> all you really need is the pigment and everything else that makes up the paint is essentially wasted. <A> Cured concrete is a chemical brew. <S> When concrete is setting, it doesn't just dry out. <S> There is an exothermic chemical reaction going on. <S> Go put your hand on it. <S> It'll be warm (or hot, depending on how thick the pour is). <S> My point is that if you were to mix latex (rubber) into the concrete mix to color it, you would be interfering with the chemistry and would end up with weaker (or very weak) concrete. <S> The correct solution is a concrete dye or stain that is created for this purpose. <S> SERIOUS EDIT: <S> A comment prompted me to do a little bit of research, and there's a chance that mixing the right proportion of latex paint into concrete based on Portland cement might be fine, or even improve certain properties of the concrete. <S> Concrete curing absolutely is a chemical process, but it seems that the polymers in latex might actually work in a synergistic way with cement as both cure together. <S> It seems there has been substantial research in the past into PMC (Polymer Modified Concrete) or LMC (Latext Modified Concrete) to improve properties like tensile strength and chemical permeability. <S> One of the problems was that the cost per gallon of LMC was three times as high as regular concrete. <S> So there has been more recent research into the potential to use waste latex paint to produce LMC (Latex Modified Concrete). <S> There's obviously more in latex pain than just latex and pigment, and it might differ quite a bit from brand to brand, but this is suddenly a pretty interesting possibility, to me. <S> A quote: "It is thought that a co-matrix is formed in LMC, where the cement paste is surrounded by a polymer film. <S> Figure 1 displays a three step formation of the polymer-cement co-matrix (Ohama, 2005). <S> I haven't read the whole thing (skimmed it), and who knows if the link will last forever, but here's one resource from academia: http://digitalscholarship.unlv.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=2232&context=thesesdissertations Caveat Emptor. <S> I'd do more research, ask more questions, and try to find specific information on what ratios to use, but this might be just fine to do!? <S> ;-) <A> I can tell you that I have mixed latex paint with Portland cement(Mortar mix). <S> I put the slurry into a spray hopper and sprayed my concrete block wall. <S> I wanted the wall to match the house in color and finish. <S> It worked perfectly. <S> I did this in 2008, and the wall looks as good today as the first day I sprayed it. <S> The wall has an adobe finish, and the grout lines are not even visible. <S> To this day there is not one crack, chip, or flaking going on. <S> The wall finish is almost bulletproof! <A> Why not just buy the pigments, buy the acrylic polymer, some sand and cement and start experimenting? <S> I made concrete countertops this way with no previous experience. <S> You'll have more control, and you'll be using ingredients that have been extensively tested and designed to work together. <A> Isn't this the basis for products such as UGL waterproof paint? <S> I know that paint MUST be added to ready mix drywall mud to accomplish water resistance prior to decorative finishing. <S> I know acrylic additive is available for all portland cement based products. <S> I know latex additive is available for ceramic tile mortars. <S> In my estimation, these are over-priced dilutions. <S> I have mixed paint with cement for decades and had very good results. <S> " <S> Bulletproof" (as the one comment said) is not an understatement!!
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For coloring concrete it is much better to use products that are specifically designed for this - either a concrete dye mixed into the concrete itself, or a concrete stain applied afterwards.
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How to connect 6x12 AWG wires? I'm replacing an electrical box in my bathroom that connects to both a vanity light and a fan. The idea is to put in a GFCI outlet and a duplex switch for separate light/fan switching. Right now I'm stuck on grounding: I have three ground wires coming into the box (line, light, fan). Plus one to ground the box itself, plus one each to the GFCI and the switch. That's 6x12 AWG wires that all need to be connected. How do I connect that many wires? The largest readily-available wire connector (red) is rated for 4x12 AWG. <Q> I'm a HUGE fan of Wago's "Wall-Nuts" ... <S> They exceed all NEC pull-out tests and they're much more secure than the crappy wire nuts everyone has been using since plastic was invented. <S> And they come in up to 8-port. <S> There are 6-port versions as well just not pictured. <A> Like the Wing-Nut 454 Wire Connector <S> (source: idealind.com ) <S> If you're only working with grounding conductors, IDEAL also has Splice Cap Crimp Connectors <S> that can handle six 12 AWG conductors. <S> Splice Cap Crimp Connectors <S> http://www.idealind.com/media/img/product/medium/2011S.jpg <S> Though you'll need a crimp tool to work with these. <A> First off, you do not need a separate tail to the box itself. <S> Personally, I use ground crimps. <S> I twist all the grounds at the point <S> I want the crimp, then I leave tails for the number of devices in the box, and cut the rest off right at the crimp spot, then put on the crimp. <S> Another option is to use a green wire nut, the one with the hole in the end. <S> Twist, and them cut off all but one long tail and put the wire nut on. <S> This tail will go to one device then on to the next in one continuous piece. <A> Another option is to just cut a length of bare copper #12, pigtail it to 3 of the ground wires with a red wire nut, then connect it to the remaining 3 ground wires with another red wire nut. <S> Mission accomplished.
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Typically we'll wrap one of the grounds around the box grounding screw then on to the splice. The Wall-Nuts gadgets are a handy option. Now each device has its own tail and the spice is nice and neat and small. If you search the IDEAL Connector UL Listed Wire Combinations (pdf) document for "6 #12", you'll find they offer a few twist-on wire connectors that can handle six 12 AWG conductors.
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Our hot water heater is gas, and it only has low med. and high temperature settings. Which setting is the safest to use for our home? Our hot water tank is gas, and only has high, med, and low temperature settings. Which one is the safest setting for our single home? <Q> Start at medium, or at the current setting, if you already have it connected. <S> Go to the nearest hot water faucet, let the faucet run for 3 or 4 minutes. <S> Put a thermometer into the stream of water. <S> NOTE, your finger is not a thermometer. <S> If the temp is higher than 115F, then your heater is set too high. <S> If the temp is under 100F, it will feel warm at best in the shower, it is too low. <S> In a perfect world, you have a mixing or tempering valve. <S> This lets you mix some cold water with the water coming out of the heater, allowing you to get 'baby bear' temperature - just right. <A> Use a thermometer, but you want to make sure that you have temperatures in the 125-130degF range for your untempered hot water (it sounds scalding hot, but cooler temperatures promote the growth of nasties like L. pneumophilia in your hot water system). <S> Tempering valves, by the way, belong at the point of use -- <S> this prevents stagnant legs of warm water from serving as points where bacteria can grow. <A> If you have children and none of the faucets have an anti scald temperature mixing valve then go with with medium. <S> If you do NOT have children then go with hot.
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if you have children and do have an anti scald temperature mixing valve then go with hot.
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removing glue from felt pads on chair legs I am trying to remove old glue from chair felt pads. I have tried GooGone, sanding and paint thinner. Does anyone have a remedy for this problem? <Q> If the glue is a hard type glue such as Elmer's or a Wood glue, your best bet is to try to chip off as much as possible with a sharp pocket knife. <S> Then a block sander or electric sander may work OK for the rest. <S> Or if you have access to a flat bastard file ($4.99 or so at Sears Hardware or Home Depot, Lowe's, etc..), then you can really put some muscle into it. <A> See if you can get some evo stick adhesive remover... <S> its in a red tin. <S> It really is the best... <S> we use it in the factory <S> so it is industrial strength stuff. <S> If that doesn't get it off I doubt anything will. <A> I had to do this recently with some old flimsy chairs. <S> Secure chair on the side or upside down, if the legs are flimsy maybe secure them as well. <S> Use a sharp wood chisel to remove the chunks. <S> Watch your hands, fingers and wear eye protection. <S> Work chisel between the wood and glue or slice through layers of glue. <S> Once the majority is gone, use a sanding block or orbital sander to sand down to the wood. <S> You want the sandpaper backed by a hard surface. <S> It sounds like you are almost there, the two main ingredients are determination and patience.
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If the glue is still tacky at all (or ever was), Laquer Thinner or "Goof Off" may be a good solvent.
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How to measure and cut square tiles to make a herringbone pattern? I have 18x18 inch square travertine tiles. I would like to know if it is feasible to cut each tile in half and make a herringbone pattern for our bathroom floor. I was planning on using 1/8" grout lines and I'm not sure how to make everything fit nicely together with the awkward measurements, spacings, and cuts. Any tips or tricks for doing this or should I just resort to a diamond pattern instead? PS: I love diagrams <Q> Travertine Limestone - These are natural stone tiles with a saw cut edge. <S> I would rent and use a diamond saw tile cutter and use plenty of water during the cut to keep the blade cool and the lime dust down. <S> Otherwise you'll get a funny cut that will be obvious in the final layout. <S> Travertine and Slate are some of the softest and most easily cuttable natural tile you will work with. <S> Be aware that either can have imperfections and can break away on the edges so have spare material available. <A> Measure your tiles, chances are they're not a true 18" anyway. <S> You can cut all four edges of course, but that's a lot of work. <S> Are you able to order more tiles that match what you have? <S> If you can, it's likely that they're available in a 9x18 or 8x16 size. <S> Alternatively you could use a belt sander to smooth the cut edge although it still might look different than the factory edge. <A> You can, of course, do something like this. <S> There are several big caveats: <S> Get a good book on tile setting; there are a lot of nuances and you want to thoroughly read the advice of the pros before going into a project like this With any custom pattern, you need to meticulously plan it; you need to design out the pattern with EXACT measurements <S> so you know exactly how the pattern will play out Once you start making the pattern you will need to make small adjustments. <S> The room will not be square and there will be other errors that creep in; you have to make small adjustments in the cuts to compensate for this; skill in making such adjustments is why pro tile setters get paid the big bucks Doing a custom floor is a LOT of work; think long and hard about how much time you are willing to devote to this, because it will be days, if not weeks of solid work.
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It's all in the setup on the saw, make sure you get the sawcut exactly centered, cut in one smooth stroke and make sure the tile is secured so it won't move during the cutting operation.
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How can I calculate the effects a floor coverings thermal conductivity will have on my heating costs? We are choosing between laminate and plastic flooring over water based underfloor heating (heat pipes laid in the screed floor over thick concrete). Laminate floorings have a thermal resistance of app. 0.06 m^2K/W, plastics (for example Classen NEO) have halve of that or less. While plastics are twice as good in terms of thermal conductivity, they are also more expensive, may be harder to install (linoleum has very low thermal resistance but needs to be glued to the underfloor) and there are environmental and air quality concerns for the cheaper options (vinyl). How do I find out what the consequences of higher thermal resistance (lower thermal conductivity) really are, in terms of how much more m^3 in gas I will need each year? Are there any calculation tools, lookup tables or rules of thumb to help me with this?Maybe experiments with different floor types? I could calculate the difference straight from the theory, but I don't even know what the average floor heat is from underfloor heating (from this, I imagine, I could calculate back the energy difference for different floor types, and then I would need specs of the heater to calculate how much more gas this would cost). <Q> Respectfully, you are trying to compare apples to autos here. <S> Burning gas makes things hot. <S> I suggest you go <S> try to calculate it from theory <S> , physics is fun, calculus is interesting, the numbers will not lie to you, and you will see the logical error immediately. <S> The heat has to go somewhere. <S> A metal floor would get hot fast, and cold fast. <S> A concrete floor will get hot slowly, and get cold slowly. <S> It would have hot spots and cold spots. <S> With a high thermal resistance the entire floor will feel the same temperature. <A> Aside from the factors mentioned by "Some Guy", note that the relatively still air next to surfaces also has an insulating value. <S> A rough estimate for many common cases would be about 0.1 m^2K/W. <S> For thin assemblies, this air film dominates the total heat transfer and means the insulating value of the materials themselves have very little impact on the overall heat transfer. <A> The most honest answer is, "it doesn't matter." <S> Assuming the worst case scenario that there is no insulation of any sort beneath the pipes, a flooring material with a lower thermal conductivity will cause a small amount of the heat to be directed downwards rather than upwards, but we're probably talking about a difference in the number of watts/BTUs that can be counted on two hands, for the cost of pennies/Euro cents per year on your gas bill. <S> It's background noise, unless you're talking about a floor of tens of thousands of square feet, in which case you're probably running a business and should have this calculation done by a professional.
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If your floor has a very low thermal resistance - you would be able to feel the path of the heating pipes/elements. Thermal conductivity is just how fast it takes the heat to get to you.
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Nailing down hardibacker on walls I'm in the middle of a bathroom renovation, which will be tiled with large format porcelain tiles on both the floor and walls. I put 1/4" HardiBacker on the floor, laid on top of a bed of thinset as per the installation instructions. I used the "BackerOn" coated screws that home depot sells with the HardiBacker sheets. I was not happy with how the screws tend to split or fracture the hardi, mostly around the edge even when holding back 3/4" from the sheet edge. When I started putting 1/2" backer on the walls I switched to hot-dipped galvanized ring shank nails, 2" long, using a framing nailgun to set them. I dialed back the drive depth to leave almost all nails either flush or slightly proud of the surface, and then I tapped them flush with a hammer. I had some that broke the surface of the board though. After completing almost the entire bathroom I then was told that I should have used roofing nails, not framing nails, due to the size of the head. What I'm concerned about is that the backer board might pull through the nail heads of the smaller diameter framing nails. They are full-round head. not clipped head, but still much smaller than a roofing nail. Am I justified in my worry? Should I go back over and augment the nailed boards with some screws? <Q> I use HB 30-40 times a year <S> and <S> and I use the HB screws and long roofing nails. <S> For shower walls that are a little tough <S> I will double predrill for my backer screws. <S> I will use a small bit for the hole <S> then I will through each hole and use a larger bit. <S> The larger bit I just give a tap into the board - about a 1/16th of an inch. <S> This will allow the head to sink in well and also keep my backer from breaking on the corners. <S> It might seem like a lot of work to double predrill but when you need to end up with flat right angles... <S> well you will spend more time screwing and unscrewing - and backer screws are really good at pulling your board out <S> 1/8" to drive you nuts. <S> Another note on the roofing nails. <S> I strategically use them. <S> They are fine to use <S> , they are easy, they are faster... until you need to take the board out or add a shim. <S> Then you are screwed. <A> I'd be inclined to add a few roofing nails in critical locations--corners, edges, etc. <S> The nails mostly provide sheer strength, so it's unlikely that you'll see a problem. <A> I have always used a handful of nails around the perimeter, then use screws for most, but I countersink every single hole first.
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Depending on what is behind your backer you need long roofing nails.
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Is it dangerous if the ground pin of a 3 prong plug breaks off in the outlet? The grounding prong of a 3 prong plug broke off in an outlet. Could this be an electrical hazard should a child touch it? <Q> It could be bad if other things go wrong as well, or if the circuit/device is miswired. <S> It also prevents you from plugging in other grounded devices, which could be a problem as well. <S> The best thing to do would be to either remove it, or replace the receptacle. <S> Turn off the power to the circuit at the breaker, and verify power is off. <S> Then using needle nose pliers (or tweezers), try to extract the pin. <A> Assuming the outlet is correctly grounded, this would be no different from touching the outlet mounting screws - harmless. <A> It's not immediately dangerous, but it is bad simply because it is wrong . <S> And it may be easy to fix, as others have noted. <S> If so, you've probably already fixed it. <S> If not, (perhaps the prong is deeply inserted in the outlet), then consider: Turn off the power at the circuit breaker Verify <S> the power is off using a lamp in the other outlet socket <S> Remove the prong by what ever means needed pliers? <S> tweezers? <S> In any case, you should definitely fix this, at the very least, it will be a problem at some point later when you want to use a three prong plug.
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However, if the outlet were miswired, for example, the outlet ground actually connected to neutral (because there was no ground in the box) and there was a wiring fault disconnecting the circuit's neutral, the neutral prong, as well as the ground, could become hot. If you're unable to remove it, have the receptacle replaced by a professional.
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What are the differences between these two receptacles? Residential duplex outlets come in a variety of styles. The two most common seem to be: and Does it matter? Is the difference purely aesthetics, or is there any technical difference? <Q> The outlet on the left will accept both 15 amp and 20 and compatible The outlet on the right is a 15 amp only outlet <S> The left is formally a: NEMA R5-20R <S> The right is formally a: <S> NEMA R5-15R <S> The designation is for the pin pattern alone <S> the word Decora is a trademark of Leviton. <S> But it is used generically. <S> At this point, I think you can actually get more things in the Decora pattern footprint. <S> GFI, Motion sensors, and other devices come in the Docra pattern, but are not seen often, if at all in the double d format. <S> Both of the devices you show are in a 'Single Gang' and 'Duplex' format. <S> 'Gang' is a trade unit of measure (2.812" x 1.75") and 'Duplex' refers to the fact that there are two of them. <S> The 'NEMA' (knee-ma) is the acronym for National Electrical Manufactures Association. <S> Lots of information, but being a standard, it lacks the symmetrical debates that occur with the NEC http://www.nema.org <A> There are two main differences between the outlets shown. <S> First is the left one is a 20 amp outlet and accepts both 15 and 20 amp plugs. <S> You can tell because the left prong is T shaped. <S> The right outlet is 15 amp only because the left prong is just vertical. <S> Second is the visual design: two cropped circles on the left vs. a single rectangle (a.k.a. decora ). <S> This is purely aesthetic and has no functional difference. <A> Since you are more concerned about the plates, There are a number of standard plate designs designed to accommodate different devices in the box. <S> Decora which you show on the right works with not only regular outlets which you show, but with gfic outlets, switches, dimmers, fan controls, timers, motion sensors and more. <S> All of these special applications are also available in decora except 300 ohm tv. <S> Rounding out the most common wallplates is the switch plate, which accommodates a single switch in a small rectangular cutout. <S> Also available in this form factor are dimmers and indicator lights. <S> The less common wallplates with a few exceptions are single round cutouts of various sizes to accommodate single outlets of various descriptions. <S> The exceptions are the old style double button switch which has two round cutouts, keystone plates used for communications, plates with integral specialty jacks and oddball plates that are matched to the equipment. <S> When you put two devices in a box (double gang) you are more limited, although the common pairings are available. <S> With three devices (triple gang) and wider you are limited to switch and decora style plates.
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The shape of the 'Square' vs. the 'Double D' outline is cosmetic only The square shape is typically called 'Decora' - When choosing, cost and aesthetics are your typical consideration (assuming the plates are purchased at the same time as the outlet they are used with when you put one device in a box (single gang). Duplex which you show on the left is the most common for outlets, but has also been used for mixed switch (one switch, one outlet), double switch, switch with indicator, telephone, tv antenna (I have seen both 300 ohm and 75 ohm) and keystone.
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What type of hose should be used when flushing a water heater? I know that a hot water heater should be flushed yearly to mitigate sediment buildup. What kind of hose should be used? Is a simple garden hose sufficient, or will the hot water melt or damage the rubber? Are there heavy-duty or heat-resistant hoses for hot water? <Q> If you're going to flush the hot water heater <S> you might as well turn it off and then take a shower or do a load of laundry. <S> That way the water will only be lukewarm when you flush the tank <S> and you won't throw away water you already paid to heat. <S> Then you don't need to worry about the type of hose (or worry about spilling scalding water on yourself). <A> Why? <S> No pressure. <S> You don't (or shouldn't) have a nozzle on the hose, so it should not be subject to much pressure. <S> Also, you are draining from the bottom of the tank, the cold water dip tube supplies cold water to the bottom of the tank, so <S> your tank flushing should be mostly cooler water - <S> the hot water will mostly remain in the top part of the tank, or at the most be somewhat mixed with the cold water coming in to replace the water you are draining out. <S> So your hose will see "warm" water at the worst. <A> I use a washing machine fill hose . <S> There are two reasons why I use this type of hose: <S> It is rated for hot water use. <S> More importantly, it does not leak water; I first tried with a (cheap) garden hose and that leaked.
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While there are "hot water hoses" and you'll pay a pretty penny for them if you want more than the standard 5 feet or so that washing machine hoses are, you can use an ordinary garden hose.
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Why would two circuit breakers be connected inside the service panel? I was trying to locate the circuit breaker for an outlet in my garage and found a truly baffling setup. Two breakers control the same outlet (both plugs). After some head scratching, I opened the breaker box and found (see pic) breaker 4 (20 amp) wired to the outlet as expected but breaker 34 (30 amp) wired to breaker 4. Why would this be done? It was obviously intentional and possibly setup for a freezer. Is this safe and in anyway an accepted practice? Thanks everyone for the help! I know enough to keep from getting electrocuted and this just didn't meet the logic test. I'll be checking the wiring and hopefully this is the only work they attempted. <Q> My guess is that the guy kept tripping breaker #4 (maybe too many power tools in the garage?) and decided to share the load with another breaker by adding the extra wire. <S> Approximately half of the current will flow through each breaker, effectively creating a 40 amp breaker. <S> EDIT: <S> in fact it's possible / likely that the wires on that circuit were regularly carrying more than 20 amps. <S> If you find any indication of heat damage I think it would be prudent to rip out the entire circuit and rewire it, since there may be damaged insulation in the walls just waiting to catch fire. <A> Alright, now that you found the blatant 240.8 violation: 240.8 Fuses or Circuit Breakers in Parallel. <S> Fuses and circuit breakers shall be permitted to be connected in parallel where they are factory assembled in parallel and listed as a unit. <S> Individual fuses, circuit breakers, or combinations thereof shall not otherwise be connected in parallel. <S> I'd grab a copy of the 2014 NEC , call up any electrician friends you have, and invite them over for a Code-violation Easter-egg hunt. <S> I think it'll be a blast :D <A> Uh, NO!!! <S> That was a hamfisted moronic code violating idiot wiring job done by a guy who said "hold my beer and watch this!" <S> Rip it out and look around for other work this guy may have done while three sheets to the wind. <A> Two breakers on the same circuit that are not clipped or otherwise mechanically forced to trip at the same time... <S> doesn't seem like a good idea. <S> Best case: Someone upgraded the wires/fixtures on the circuit to handle the extra load but didn't want to reconfigure the panel. <S> Worse case: Someone got tired of resetting the breaker and/or unplugging his garage grow op or garage full of beer fridges and decided to burn his house down instead. <S> Good catch on you. <S> Make some smores before you fix it. <S> Mmm, basement panel smores.
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Wherever possible you should inspect the wiring, including all outlets on that circuit, to see if there are any signs of melted insulation or other damage. As @Ecnerwall says, definitely not safe / legal / advisable.
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How can I eliminate one 3-way switch to leave just one switch on the lighting circuit it's on? I have two sets of lights in my kitchen. At one end of the kitchen, I have a 2 Gang light switch which operates both sets of lights, and at the other end I have a single light switch which operates the lights at that end of the kitchen. I want to eliminate the single gang light switch totally so it just leaves the 2 gang light switch to control both sets of lights. How do I do that? <Q> Your circuit contains two 3-way switches. <S> 4) the unused "traveler" wire is abandoned If the switch without the incoming "hot" is the one you want single control from (shown at right)- 1) remove the switch with the incoming hot (shown at left) and connect the incoming hot to either of the "traveler" wires 2) replace the other switch (shown at right) with a single-pole switch 3) connect the "traveler" wire used in step 1 to one side of the switch 4) connect the "switched hot" that goes to the lights to the other side of the switch. <S> 5) <S> the unused "traveler" wire is abandoned <A> Replace the double pole with a single. <S> Cap the red on both ends, keep the white and black attached as normal on the remaining switch, and tie the black and white together on the removed switch. <A> To expand on Paul's response. <S> Since everyone else's is so dang complicated. <S> But his was lacking enough detail. <S> Step 1: <S> Remove the 3-way switch from the junction you want to remain and (Assuming this is the hot source) replace the switch with a single pole switch. <S> (continued on step 2) <S> Knowledge 1: <S> 3-way switches only have 1 hot (the black). <S> Then two wires that run through to a second switch to the circuit that are called travelers. <S> Knowledge 2: <S> At the power source switch, the whites are tied together and capped. <S> Leave them like that. <S> Step 2: <S> Place the black into one of the hot poles (gold) <S> Step 3: <S> Identify the traveler (white or red) and attach it to the other hot pole. <S> (mine was red) <S> Step 4: <S> On 3 way switch being removed, take the chosen traveler (mine was red). <S> tie it together with the power traveler (mine was black) <S> Knowledge 3: <S> You can trial and error what you tie together as long as you make sure the power on the input. <S> Is seperately attached.
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Referring to the diagram below: if the switch with the incoming "hot" is the one you want single control from (shown at left)- 1) replace that switch with a single-pole switch 2) connect either of the "traveler" wires to the load side 3) remove the other (unwanted) switch and connect the traveler wire used in step-2 to the "switched hot" wire that goes to the lights.
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What do volts and amps imply for angle grinders? I have several home improvement projects that would be made enormously easier if I had a decent angle grinder with both grinding and cutting wheels to attach to it. But I've never used or bought one before. Arbitrarily, going to Lowes (not that I am endorsing Lowes in any way shape or form here), and arbitrarily picking Dewalt as a brand: http://www.lowes.com/Search=angle+grinder?storeId=10151&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&N=0&newSearch=true&Ntt=angle+grinder#!&N%5B%5D=0&N%5B%5D=1z136s7 Some models seem to focus on amps, and some seem to focus on voltage. This is confusing to me, as I would have expected the main rating on a grinder to be, say, torque or RPM. So I ask: When does one care about the amp rating on an angle grinder, and why? When does one care about the volt rating on an angle grinder, and why? Are these the only two quality metrics that really matter for angle grinders? <Q> First and foremost, select a tool with as many of the latest safety features as you can afford: an integral clutch that disengages the drive-line upon wheel bind a "slow-start" or "soft-start" feature <S> NO "lock-on" button a "deadman" trigger or lever feature <S> (shuts off if you let go) an easily adjustable guard (no tools required) auto-braking <S> Buy gloves, goggles and dust mask when you buy the tool <S> Amps indicate the power that the motor draws during use and generally indicates the size and power of the motor (higher is "better"). <S> I personally think a well built tool with the features I want and which is comfortable for me to hold and use is more important than the amp rating. <S> If you are routinely grinding and cutting thick heavy hard metal materials you might consider a bigger/more powerful machine. <S> Voltage should be whatever your household current is (220-240vt angle grinder would not be practical for home or general shop use, pretty much industrial only) <A> Volts should be irrelevant - normally only even mentioned on battery powered tools, and an angle grinder is not a good choice for battery power. <S> Since you mention Lowes, presumably any grinder you look at with a cord will be 120VAC, end of that story. <S> Elsewhere in the world, 220-240 VAC, still end of that story. <S> Buy an extension cord if needed, or a generator if you have really remote uses for it. <S> In that context, more amps either means more power (power out of the wall = <S> volts times amps), or a less efficient motor (power out of the wall that just turns into heat <S> does no useful work.) <S> No good way to tell, for sure, really. <S> So one is prone to making the assumption that it SHOULD mean more power, if efficiency is assumed to be similar. <S> Quality of bearings and gears matters more than either of the above, longevity-wise. <S> Rotational speed is mostly something to pay attention to not exceeding when you buy discs, brushes, or other attachments, so that you do not put a 10,000RPM attachment onto a 13,000 RPM grinder (the other direction is fine.) <S> Getting a widely-interchangable arbor size helps to keep your attachment and disc options open <S> .vs. <S> weird proprietary sizes. <S> A usage tip - if the grinder begins to bog down, ease up the pressure - the JOB gets done faster with the tool running full speed. <S> If you apply so much pressure that the tool bogs down (labors, is not running full speed) <S> the cutting or grinding process is slower, not faster. <S> Let the tool work, don't force it. <A> When does one care about the amp rating on an angle grinder, and why? <S> Models that list amps as a primary specification have cords. <S> The amps are directly related to the machine's power. <S> When does one care about the volt rating on an angle grinder, and why? <S> The volts are sort-of related to power, but more related to how long it will run. <S> Battery capacity is a function of amps vs time, and as volts go up, amps go down for the same power. <S> Also, once someone chooses a battery-operated tool they tend to stay with the same voltage for subsequent tools as the batteries and chargers are interchangeable. <S> Other comments: a "slow-start" or "soft-start" feature <S> unless the tool is industrial / contractor size it doesn't make much difference <S> NO "lock-on" button <S> Your finger will get very tired, and that prompts users to do silly things like a string or tie-wrap around the switch which is far more dangerous than the lock-on button. <S> a "deadman" trigger or lever feature (shuts off if you let go) <S> Same, unless it's very well designed. <S> auto-braking noisy (not that the tool itself isn't deafening, but...) <S> and on battery operated tools makes a noticeable difference to the run time. <S> Can also loosen the disc clamp, turning it into a high-speed frisbee. <S> Not everywhere in the world has 110-120V mains <S> Quite true, but Home Depot in <S> country A tends not to sell power tools for country B's electricity. <S> The plug is also different.
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Electric angle grinders are very useful tools, they can also be extremely dangerous. Models that list volts as a primary specification are battery operated.
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Is this wall load bearing? I want to remove these three small pieces of wall (Marked in yellow arrow) to combine dining and living room? Since the house has a basement. I also attached the basement pic to show the structure those walls. Are they load bearing? can I remove them? <Q> Your house plans (blueprints) would tell you for sure, presuming the house was built faithfully to the plans. <S> Or both. <S> Do you know which direction the joists are running? <S> Floor and ceiling joists will be perpendicular to the load bearing walls (or beams!), not parallel to them. <S> If the ends of the joists are resting on the wall or beam, then it is definitely load-bearing. <S> if there isn't another floor above this one, and you have engineered, prefabricated trusses holding up your roof, this won't be load-bearing. <S> The trusses are engineered to handle the load of the roof by themselves. <S> If they aren't engineered trusses, that doesn't apply. <S> Is the long common wall of the living room/dining room/kitchen directly on top of (parallel with) the long wall downstairs, and is the opening between the dining and living rooms perpendicular to that long wall downstairs? <S> It looks like the photos might be from different directions? <S> If so, then the common wall with the kitchen is probably the load-bearing wall, and the opening between the living and dining rooms may or may not be, depending on how the joists are laid out. <S> But you really should look at the plans or get somebody knowledgeable to take a look in person. <A> Its unlikely you can remove those walls. <S> In any case, would you really start knocking down walls in your house based on what random people on a forum wrote? <A> An interior wall which is perpendicular (at right angles) to the floor and ceiling joists was probably originally intended to be loadbearing. <S> An interior wall parallel to the joists was probably not originally intended to be loadbearing. <S> Probably. <S> Originally. <S> There are exceptions, and load may shift as the house settles. <S> We knew one wall was certainly loadbearing and needed him to design the path by which those forces would now travel and specify the materials. <S> But even though the other wall was across the joists, he expressed concern and recommended a heavy parallam beam across that opening too, to make sure it would be properly supported. <S> There are some rules of thumb. <S> There are some ways of getting a partial test. <S> But given the possible cost of getting this wrong, I have to recommend getting an expert opinion if there is any doubt. <S> but it's worth paying someone to tel, you before you make a potentially serious mistake. <S> If you don't know, assume it's loadbearing until you find out. <A> TL: <S> DR version: <S> Is it possible? <S> Yes. <S> Is it load bearing? <S> Perhaps but I think not - Get professional, in-person opinions <S> Long version: <S> You <S> can remove them, because anything is possible with enough money. <S> Even if the wall is load bearing, a carrying beam could be put in, posts added to support the beam, and footers added to support the posts. <S> A contractor could tell you better if he is thinks it is a bearing wall. <S> Then you'd need an engineer to tell you the right way to do so and possibly a contractor to tell you how much it would cost. <S> Then you have to make the determination if this is worth it too you. <S> Non-load bearing would be substantially cheaper, but there could be other issues inside these walls like plumbing, electric runs. <S> , etc (but doubtful from the pictures alone.) <S> All that said, if the stairs in the basement pic are behind you and to the right in the main floor pic <S> and there is not another floor above <S> , then I doubt this is load bearing. <S> Otherwise, it's anyone's guess.
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If the joists pass across the top of the wall (or beam) unbroken, then the wall is possibly not load-bearing, depending on your joists, the length of the span after you remove the wall, and the load on the floor above. When I had two walls opened up, I paid the relatively small amount to bring in a structural engineer to advise us. You really should have a good look at the plans, or get somebody knowledgeable to look at this in person. It can be kind of hard to tell from photos. You can still do the work yourself, if it turns out to not be loadbearing or if you get expert advice about how to handle it...
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Why are the lights flickering when the a/c is on? The lights flick on and off when the a/c is on and the sound of a/c is too noisy and look like it's going to blow. I already checked the connection if they have a short circuit. Did not found any trouble <Q> Im going to assume you are talking about either a window air conditioner or portable unit - not central AC. <S> The lights flickering means the voltage is dropping. <S> Incandescent bulbs are particularly sensitive to that. <S> Most CFL and LED bulbs <S> flicker less, though some may still flicker. <S> It is normal for there to be a momentary large draw as the compressor starts up. <S> Fridges and freezers do the same thing. <S> The manual for your AC may even say it requires a dedicated circuit. <S> If its doing this when the AC first turns on, its not a problem. <S> If it were drawing too much power for too long your circuit breaker would trip. <S> If the compressor is starting and stopping rapidly causing constant flicker, your AC unit needs servicing or replacing. <S> The noise might be the compressor or a fan dying, or just vibrations. <S> Hard to tell without hearing it. <A> Although this is a very common issue you have to totally be certain that the flickering is only taking place by switching on the A/C. <S> For the condenser to start it can take up to 100 <S> + Amps of current for the first few milli seconds(aka locked rotor amps). <S> This energy is much much greater than full load amps. <S> As soon as the motor is up and running the current drawn decreases to a much lesser value(around 2 - 5A). <S> Coming to the flickering of your bulb. <S> When the A/C is switched on, the large amount of current drawn causes the current across the bulb and other electrical devices to decrease and hence the bulb <S> either switches off momentarily or goes dim. <S> As soon as the motor is running at normal speed the bulb glows starts to glow at normal brightness. <S> Hence, you feel the bulb is flickering. <S> This should happen only when the motor/condenser starts and not throughout the working of the A/C. <S> If this is happening throughout then there is a problem with the A/C and it is probably pulling too much of current. <S> In that case you need to contact your technician immediately! <A> large inductive loads can cause out of sync pulse <S> power goes into the the compressor motor does the work intended and comes out a fraction of a second later this anomaly is calculated by what is known as a power factor for motors <S> this is mostly a non issue but say you put 2 transformers in parallel so they are drawing power from the same source and output to the same load if the transformers are of the same rating you might think all is good but <S> unless they are manufactured in the exact same way they will more or less short out into one another back to motors its gonna contribute to flickering its more then a simple heavy load and yes its almost like you have a out of phase generator hooked up to the grid but that would be a 1000 times worse and likely result in damage to generator and house <S> hold wiring
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The voltage is dropping because of a large current draw. Its part of the reason for having a dedicated circuit for such appliances.
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Why are there sewer odors coming from my shower drain? I have random sewer odors coming from my tub and shower drains. They are separate in my bathroom. I have had plumbers come and clean the drain, but that is not fixing the problem. <Q> You have sewer gas. <S> Water in your plumbing traps is supposed to prevent that. <S> There's some problem that is resulting in not having a water seal in your traps for these items (they may share one trap if it happens to both at the same time.) <S> If you pour water down the affected fixture (slowly) does the odor stop shortly thereafter? <S> Or, if you carefully do this after each use, does the problem not occur (since it can be hard to tell when an odor stops coming in, if it's lingering around the bathroom.) <S> If so, you may have a venting problem, with the traps being sucked dry when lots of water goes down and creates a siphon (what venting is supposed to prevent.) <S> How old is the house and/or the bathroom? <S> "Pouring water slowly down the drain" would have no effect in this case. <S> It's surprising that plumbers would not have mentioned or investigated these possible causes, unless they were only asked to clean the drains, rather than to identify and solve the smell problem. <A> Is that bathroom used much? <S> Our 3rd bathroom tub never gets used. <S> As a result (we surmise), the water in the drain evaporates, allowing sewer gas to find its way into the house. <S> We just run the tub for a minute every week or two to fill the drain. <S> Haven't had the problem since. <A> I had the same problem after I had my bathroom remodeled. <S> I just pour some vinegar down the drain and it goes away. <S> I'm not sure what caused it <S> but the vinegar solves the problem for now. <S> I had to do it a few months ago.
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Another common possibility for an older house is that an old drum trap has failed, and is not functioning as a trap at all anymore.
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How do I remove a double-ended T3 R7S bulb that isn't spring loaded? A fixture using this type of bulb burned out of me. All of my searching seems to indicate that these are often spring-loaded but I applied significant force to both sides with no give. I feel so ashamed being defeated by a lightbulb.... how to I replace this? I am able to jiggle the bulb around in the socket so I know it's not corroded into place but I feel that I'm applying far to much force than should be required. I suppose it's possible that it is spring loaded but that I don't know where to apply the pressure. <Q> It's an extraordinarily stupid design. <S> Neither side is spring loaded. <S> It relies on the flexibility of the metal bracket to separate enough to get the bulb in. <S> Requires very substantial force, to the point that you are convinced you'll break the bulb. <A> Even after applying pressure no spring seemed to give sufficiently. <S> It turns out that this fixture is setup so there isn't as much clearance as I would have expected. <A> I ran into the same problem - everyone said it was spring loaded but even with considerable force the bulb barely moved. <S> But as one person says above, you only need the bulb to move slight to be able to remove it. <S> You will note that on one side there is a gap in the white plastic holding the bulb in place - in the photo above, you can see the gap on the right side. <S> That is where you slide the bulb out of the holder. <S> Put on leather gloves, push the bulb towards the other end and then slide the bulb out through that gap.
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A little pulling and the bulb came out.
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What are these blue and yellow cables coming out of my house for? I recently purchased a house built in 2007. All houses in the area have those cables on the side of the house. The white cable on the picture is for cable/tv. But what about the blue/yellow cables? Are they safe to remove? <Q> As best one can see from that resolution those are twisted pair cables. <S> If you look closely you should see the rating on the jacket. <S> you want to connect service <S> so you don't have to drill back through the siding. <A> With the limited information provided, they could be anything. <S> Likely they are for telco, but could also be for monitoring your water meter, or could part of an alarm system (fake phone line that triggers an alarm if cut). <S> I would suggest you leave it until you know for certain what it is. <S> Extra wires are usually a good thing that you'll be happy to have at a later date. <S> As one of the commenters suggested, one of your neighbours probably has an idea what they are for. <A> I finally found out what those cables are. <S> They are simply CAT 5 cables. <S> They were used by the Frontier technician to install FiOS. <S> The blue/yellow color is just to distinguish the cables.
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It could also be speaker wiring or some other low voltage wiring. The blue is probably a Cat5e or Cat6, for ethernet, and the yellow is probably Cat3/VG for phone. If your area has or is scheduled to receive fiber-optic com utilities then some vendors (like FIOS) put the fiber terminal outside and split off the various services from there. If they're not connected on either end they're safe to remove, but I'd leave terminals in case If you were to remove it, and later had a need for it, you would need to run new wiring which could involve cutting walls and drilling another hole through your siding.
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Why does my stove vent fan take time to turn on The vent hood is quite old. For some reason when I flip the switch to turn it on it takes 10-30 seconds to actually turn on. I've checked it and there's no power flowing for those 10-30 seconds. There's no sound during that time or any indication of what's going on. At first I even thought it wasn't getting any power until it suddenly started after I'd left the switch on for a bit. I mean, its definitely not getting power for those few seconds but I thought it was a dead motor or something at first. It always does this, even if it was just running. Turning it off and then on again will cause it to stop and take its time to turn on again. I'm fairly decent at DIY household electricity, but I've never encountered a problem like this. It defies my basic understanding of electricity.I think it might be the switch but I don't know how to check for that and don't know what to do to replace the switch on an old stove range if it is. <Q> Probably kitchen gunk on the switch contacts. <S> It takes that long for the contacts to "sink" through the gunk. <S> Replace the switch, <A> If you know the brand name, you can look up the technical specs even for discontinued models. <S> Usually it will be a PDF file that includes a schematic. <S> It does sound like an electrical problem. <S> It could be something like a cracked solder joint that expands and connects after heating up that initial thirty seconds. <A> If it works when you turn it on, then it can't be a contacts issue. <S> It's possible the windings in your motor are wearing down or shorted, hence the extra current draw and the delay. <A> It is most likely one of your capacitors. <S> Some single-phase motors (which your fan has) have just a Start Capacitor and some have both a Start and Run capacitor. <S> A motor circuit is simple. <S> A couple switches, a couple capacitors, and the motor windings (inductors). <S> Windings are delicate <S> and there's no real "half broken" mode. <S> Switches are simple and they do have their problems, but they are usually obvious when their broken. <S> They'll either not turn on, pop loudly and not turn on, or fizz and crackle and not turn on. <S> Capacitors are complicated works of engineering and are more likely to degrade over time. <S> They have a very specific chemical inside of them (be careful if you see any leaking out; it could be harmful), are dependent on very small pieces of metal very close together, and are affected by temperature. <S> The inspection process for a capacitor by someone who is not a pro is simple. <S> Pros can do a better analysis, but with how cheap those fans are these days, it's not worth hiring one. <S> Capacitors (in this capacity) are cylindrical and range from 3/8" diameter to upwards of 1-1/4". <S> Find the one or two biggest capacitors on the electrical circuit board inside the hood somewhere. <S> Look for puffed up tops, splits in the sides, goop dripping out, black burn marks, and other obvious damage. <S> If one of them is damaged, carefully look on the side of it for it's "size." <S> It should say something like "150v 10uF". <S> At this point if you don't know how to solder or don't want to try learning, look up a business near you that deals with "ham radios" or "CB radios". <S> Take the board in and nicely/humbly ask if they could help you. <S> They'll be able to find the part for you and install it. <S> Post back if you have any questions in this direction.
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It may be that your start capacitor is dying out. Again you might have a ton of gunk in there. If your fan still works after start-up, it's almost certainly not the windings.
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How should I remove the water from my pool cover? Winter is finally over, and it's time to remove the cover from my above ground pool. However, snow and rain have left quite a bit of water on the cover. I see three options Pull the cover off, and let the water go into the pool. Use a garden hose, and try to siphon some of the water off. Buy a pump, and pump the water off. The water on the cover is gross, so I'm not sure I want to just let it go into the pool. I don't know if siphoning would work, as I'm not sure I'd be able to get it started, or if it would continue to flow once started. Haven't looked into buying a pump yet, so I'm not sure if they're expensive, or how much electricity they consume. I'd also have to monitor the pump, so it didn't run dry. Which doesn't sound ideal. Is there a tried and true method that pool owners prefer? Or any methods I haven't mentioned? <Q> The water in the pool will also be gross, so I wouldn't rule out option 1. <S> Especially if you'd otherwise be refilling the pool with a water source that has metals or other problematic contaminants. <S> Option 2 will work if and only if you can get the siphon hose outlet to a lower point than the water on the cover. <S> If you can reach that level then I would suck it up (pun intended) and use this option. <S> There are automatic pool cover pumps designed specifically to run when there's water on the cover and then shut off. <S> Cheap ones are under $50, so not a bad option either. <S> You've covered all the options. <S> I've done all three, and now have a mesh cover that lets water drain into the pool when it's on. <A> My family had a pool that would be covered over the winter. <S> We would use a simple garden hose to siphon the water off. <S> The siphon would be started by putting one end in the pool and filling the hose up through the spigot. <S> When it was disconnected it would start siphoning immediately. <S> The end of the hose was put in a beach play bucket with a brick in it <S> so it would always be the lowest point and not get air in it. <S> We'd have to clear leaves and detritus occasionally from the hose end, but usually the leaves were decomposed enough that they'd flow through the hose. <S> Sometimes we would use the pool vacuum hose, but since it was so big (1 1/2" OD) it was hard to get a siphon started. <A> I would often have to do this <S> a few times a year. <S> Once in late November to get all the water off that collected since closing (and before the winter freeze). <S> Then again right before opening the pool. <S> The water on top was usually pretty dirty, so I didn't want it in my pool. <S> Still these pumps still leave a few gallons behind that often end up in the pool. <S> I used a model similar to the one below that you could hook up a water hose too. <S> ~$60 from Harbor Freight tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/16-hp-submersible-utility-pump-1350-gph-68422.html
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I used to pump the water off my cover, at least as much as I could.
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How can I fix a door that is leaning into my bathroom? My bathroom door is leaning into the bathroom. The bottom of the door will touch the frame before the top does. Not sure what is causing it. It looks like a 2-3 degree tilt into the bathroom from the bottom to the top of the door. <Q> If it's a wooden door, the door leaf could have warped/twisted. <S> Quite often you can (if you have the space e.g. a workbench) cramp the door up so that it is twisted the opposite way, leave it for a few days <S> and then when you release the cramps the door will spring back to a position where it is (substantially) flat. <S> If the door is already flat, then it may be that it has been hung incorrectly and you would need to recut the hinges most likely. <A> Moving hinges and stops leaves you with a wonky setup that's visually odd and may result in poor latch alignment. <S> I'd start by checking for door warp . <S> Get on a stool and look downward along the edge of the door. <S> Swing your eyeline up to the far edge. <S> Do you see a twist? <S> If so, try flexing the door manually to adjust it. <S> Place a shoe or some other padded blocky item in the path of the door and give it a few nudges. <S> See if that has an effect. <S> If not, consider bracing it under pressure for a few days to see if it relaxes and flattens. <S> If the door is flat, you may need to reset the jamb (door frame). <S> If the wall has a twist in it, and the jamb was set flush with the wall, obviously the jamb will be twisted as well. <S> Remove the casing (wall trim) on the hinge side of the door opening (or both, if convenient). <S> Place a long (4-6 ft.) <S> level vertically against the hinges. <S> Check for plumb in both directions (parallel and perpendicular to the wall). <S> Adjust as needed with shims, long screws through the hinges, and/or hidden screws behind hinge leaves. <S> Now close the door and look at the gap at the top and latch side. <S> It should be uniform and parallel. <S> Adjust as needed. <S> You may need to set the jamb crooked with respect to the wall. <S> This can be remedied to some extent by careful re-installation of the casing. <S> You may need to shave back the drywall or plaster to get it to fit well. <S> By having all components of the jamb plumb, the door should now close well. <S> One trick to prevent latch rattle is to bend the tab on the strike plate slightly toward the jamb stop. <S> This gives the bolt a surface to slide against when it pops back out into the latch bore, and maintains tension when the door is closed. <A> Check the frame for a lean with a level. <S> If the frame is square and true then you need to rehang the door: <S> I.e., chisel out the hinges and rescrew them so the door hangs and swings perfectly perpendicularly to the frame. <A> You can also use that same four to six foot level and lay it against the door and if there are any gaps on both ends of a level or in the middle of the level <S> then you'll know the door is warped. <S> Doors can be very tricky there are some Handymen that specialize in nothing but doors. <S> Your house may have settled pushing the rough framework that the door frame is mounted in out of square or plumb that could be part of your problem as well <S> and it could have miss shaped your door frame when this happened. <S> In cases like this I often check the door for being warped first and if it is not then I will dismount the entire door frame and then remount it and let it relax as in don't screw it into type to conform to the shape of the rough opening as the rough opening might not be square anymore due to settling. <S> While you have the old door frame dismounted check it for squareness with a framing square in all corners. <S> If it is square proceed with remounting the door and you shouldn't have any more problems as long as you let the door frame stay relaxed and square and don't make it conform to the shape of the misshapen rough opening.
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You can shim it back up and screw it back in once again remembering to let the door frame relax. Check plumb on the latch side of the jamb, perpendicular to the wall (into and out of the room).
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Best Way to Extend 30A 120v circuit over 300 feet? I have an old barn to which i'd like to provide electricity. The problem is that the barn is about 300 feet away. I understand that voltage drop over 300 feet is fairly significant. Buying thicker wire to accomodate voltage drop of that magnitude may be very costly, and I'd have to figure out how to terminate the end in the panel at such a thick gauge. Is using a transformer at both ends a viable/smart solution?Would using two conductors in parallel be a better or safer option? How is something like this done normally? <Q> Note that you will need to drive ground rods at the barn. <S> Two rods a minimum of 6 feet apart should be good. <S> Be sure to both bury it deep enough and put a pressure-treated board over top of the cable before you pile the dirt back on top. <A> I believe you are complicating this issue somewhat. <S> It would have been helpful to know the load distributions at the barn, lights, motors, number of circuits etc. <S> Generally running two #4 wire for power and neutral and #10 for ground should work very well for conventional loading. <S> There maybe cheaper solutions but more details would be required. <A> Considering that 6/2 UF is $3.00 a foot at the blue borg and <S> 14/3 UF is $0.87 a foot at the blue borg , the transformer idea looks like a good option, until you realize how much 3.6kVA of transformer will cost you -- almost $600 via McMaster-Carr, which is the cheapest supplier I could find , with an alternative part available for about $650 via Platt Electric Supply . <S> Even with 240V being tapped at the house (source) end of this instead of 120V <S> (so you only need one transformer) -- you'd still be out a good $850, which is comparable to simply burying 6/2 UF. <S> A further drawback created by the transformer idea is the extra labor involved with creating a separately derived system in the barn (the equipment grounding arrangement gets... <S> funky, see NEC 250.30 for details), so simply burying 6/2 UF is going to be your best option. <S> As to terminating it in the panel? <S> Don't worry about it! <S> The main lugs on a panelboard will easily accept 6AWG! <S> If you're not using a panelboard (as this is a single branch circuit feeding an outbuilding), simply use appropriate wirenuts to pigtail the 6AWG UF to a length of 10AWG for the indoor branch circuit in the barn.
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Concentric-Neutral cable is relatively inexpensive and is intended for direct-burial. Personally, I'd be getting the 2 AWG stuff but that may be more money than you want to spend. Using Table 8 in chapter 9 of the NEC along with Ohm's Law (the max drop generally permitted by good practice on a branch circuit is 5% or 6V on a 120V circuit) gets you a minimum wire size of 6AWG in copper or 4AWG in aluminum.
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How to determine if hardwoods are under cabinets? I'm house shopping and some homes have built-ins or kitchen cabinets that I'd like to remove. I was wondering, first, is it possible to determine without taking the cabinets apart whether there are hardwood floors underneath? Also, if there are not hardwoods underneath, how feasible/costly is it to patch a section of hardwood flooring to get a decent match to the existing? Would the whole floor need refinishing? <Q> If it is an older house with existing hardwood floors, there is a terrific chance of the floor going under the cabs, <S> If there is laminate flooring, The chances are nil it goes under. <S> On older homes, with hardwood floors if the cabinets are removed, they may need to be refinished anyway since the floors usually are never sanded and stained under the cabinets, but it beats a tie in and refinish. <S> On newer homes, I have seen cabinets placed on the subfloor or on plywood to raise them up, and the flooring run to the cabinets. <S> With laminate floors, if you can find the flooring still, you will need to pull a piece to match it up by. <S> This will have to be done anyway to some degree to tie in the new with the old, if that is what you have. <S> You could try to patch the immediate area, which I do not recommend. <S> I would pull up the flooring to the affected area and relay the new to recover the cabinet's foot print. <A> 3 choices <S> Measure toe kick height. <S> These are usually right at 4 or 4.5 inches. <S> I might assume that if toe kick was 3 3/4" then there was probably no hardwoods under. <S> This is not the best way though because toe kicks can be non-standard. <S> This might just be pulling back some quarter round. <S> This suggestion is pretty dubious. <S> You can always drill a hole in the cabinet to see. <S> If the hole is off to the side in the very front corner no one would ever see unless they were in the cabinet. <A> I think the easiest way to tell, look for a quarter round trim between the cabinet and the floor. <S> If it has a quarter round, then two options: floor does not go under the cabinet, or the owner likes the look of the quarter round. <S> If it doesn't have a quarter round, floor goes under the cabinets, and if it doesn't it is pretty easy to see it doesn't (hence the need for the quarter round). <S> But if you see the quarter round, just assume it doesn't go under. <S> If the kitchen has tile, look at the grout lines. <S> If the tiles are cut to fit next to the cabinets with a grout line between, then the tile does not go under. <A> Sometimes you can tell by looking under the dishwasher. <S> Most have a plate that either moves or can be unscrewed. <S> Then, you can sometimes look at the edges. <S> Also, you can sometimes tell my walking on floors... <S> if it's a floating floor, no it should only go up to cabinets (or if it's underneath it's done improperly <S> and you may have other issues. <S> If you are going to replace cabinets and use same footprint, this is not a big deal at all. <S> It' very easy to do if it's oak. <A> Easiest way is to look under stove- bottom drawer typically pulls right out and the bottom panel is most often a skeleton type. <S> Also pull the trim panel at bottom of dishwasher and check there too.
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Remove a piece of trim and see if you see the bottom of the cabinets. If you will change footprint and there is a section missing, you often can weave in new wood and refinish the room.
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Why do I have shiny patches where I touched up paint on my walls? We recently had some remodeling done and the walls were all freshly painted with Behr Premium Plus Ultra Matte paint. A lot of the walls got marked up from the workers still coming in and out, so I used the EXACT paint, from the SAME container that was used to paint the walls. First I used the same roller that was used to initially paint the walls. Every area I touched up has more of a sheen to it!!! It's not noticeable when looking at it head on, but when you look from the side or in certain lighting, it's very noticeable. Then I tried using the "dry brushing technique" and this made it even more shiny. Am I going to have to TOTALLY repaint every wall that I touched up? I'm so frustrated over this. Home Depot was at a loss. Thanks for your help!!! <Q> This is a usually a problem with with the sheen differing due to different application techniques. <S> That is mixing spraying, brushing, and/or rolling. <S> My guess is the paint was applied by a roller or sprayer, and the touch up was done with a brush. <S> We usually try to make sure every thing is rolled in some way <S> so we can roll out our touch ups so they hide better. <S> So when we spray, we back roll a coat or the primer. <S> Then when we touch up, we back roll all the brushed locations with a low nap roller. <S> This typically will hide all the touchups very well. <A> Sorry that Home Depot was at a loss. <S> I worked there in the paint department, and I received quite a bit of great training, so maybe things have changed. <S> What this sounds like is something that I have seen time and time again. <S> If you use a good coat of quality primer first, and then get a good coat of paint on the wall, this shouldn't be an issue, but with remodeling, and especially with new sheetrock, this can happen. <S> Anecdotally, one thing I have seen happen is a contractor will do the absolute bare minimum in prep work to keep their costs down because the customer insisted on a "premium" paint brand like Behr rather than the "builders grade" of paint (American Standard at Home Depot) that they normally use. <S> This causes the paint to absorb into the surface more, so the sheen and durability are not what they should be, and if you try to touch up... <S> well you've seen what happens. <S> Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do to make the touch-up look the same as the first coat. <S> The only option is probably to repaint. <S> The "problem" is not specific to any brand of paint or any particular sheen of paint. <A> The shiny reflective property of a paint's sheen comes from a reflective particles in the paint. <S> The more layers that are put on, the more light gets reflected back to the viewer. <S> It's odd that this has happened with a low sheen; I have seen this with satin and eggshell quite a bit myself. <S> I have got pretty results from patches I have painted by rubbing the shiny spots with a microfiber towel or even lightly with a Mr. Clean eraser to dull the surface. <A> With the recent remodel work, I wonder if it is not the paint but instead the walls. <S> Meaning the "shine" might be lacking on the walls not the paint. <S> I use shine loosely here. <S> Have you wiped down the walls? <S> They might have a layer of dust on them? <S> After a bathroom remodel where I did a lot of drywall sanding, despite my best effort the dust got onto the walls in our hallway and down the stairway, we only really noticed it at an angle but at the right angle it really stood out. <A> I don't know what type of paint is that you used (not trade mark and manufacturer but what type from the chemical point of view. <S> But that's not really important. <S> From my experience problem is that you just painted some places on the wall; patches. <S> This is why you can spot differences. <S> You should always paint over the whole wall, or at least one part which is, visually separated from the rest. <A> You said that you touched up with the last 2" in the can. <S> I think the material that caused the shine was in the bottom of the can, and hadn't been adequately mixed in to begin with. <S> Two months ago we had our bedroom painted, and in some areas there was a lack of coverage, so when I pointed it out, the painters went over it with the last little bit of paint, scraping the sides and bottom of the can. <S> When it dried, this paint was visibly lighter than the paint applied earlier! <S> (This was Benjamin Moore matte paint, mid-grade. <S> Good paint.) <S> Another painter told us that issue was due to a white pigment in the bottom of the can, that was inadequately mixed into the paint before it was applied to the wall. <S> I bought more paint, and told the guy who mixed it about the problem with the earlier batch. <S> He spent more time mixing the new batch, and the color problem didn't happen again, although I removed little lumps and painted over places on all the walls. <S> We learned lessons: 1--Be very careful that the paint on the bottom really gets mixed in. <S> 2--Cut-rate painters don't do all the needed prep work, like getting little pieces of sponge and old "pimples" knocked off the walls before they start painting. <S> But you can do it. <S> It would have been much easier to do it before the paint went on, and avoided the repair work I did. <S> 3--If your painter is confident he won't spill a drop and doesn't want to cover the WHOLE floor, SEE THAT <S> IT GETS PROTECTED. <S> Especially if you hired a cut-rate painter. <S> I spent hours cleaning the tiny drops of paint, and smudges of paint that got under our feet and then on the carpet. <S> Our painter knocked over a loaded paint tray, on brand new carpeting, too, but did a good job cleaning up 99% of it, with water and a water vacuum cleaner. <S> Better that the carpet had been fully protected to begin with. <S> For the next room, we covered the whole floor before they arrived.
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The first coat of paint is simply absorbed by the wall differently than the next coat of paint. The sheen between the different application techniques will be different and noticeable.
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What to use to cut large roots I have a big Sycamore tree in my front yard and the roots are growing towards the foundation of my house. One of the roots is about a foot from the foundation. My husband is not able to do the work, so I will have to try and cut the roots myself. We can't afford to hire someone to do the work. A Sycamore tree has large roots. I've tried using a hand saw and a hatchet, but it takes a long time. What would be the easiest tools to use to cut the roots? I'm 73 years old, but I'm pretty strong. <Q> You will want a coarse blade with less than 14 teeth per inch. <S> They are available in battery powered models if you don't have an outlet nearby. <S> If you have never used anything like it before ask the salesperson if they can show you how to use it safely. <S> Ask if they have a piece of scrap wood so you can make a cut to see if you are comfortable using it. <A> If you're not comfortable using power tools, and the roots are not too large (less than about 2 inches). <S> A Ratcheting Lopper should handle the job. <A> I will echo a previous reply about the sawzall. <S> you can rent one, just don't tell them what for! <S> I own one, and keep a few sacrificial blades JUST for root cutting. <S> You do need to dig around the root enough to get the saw in there, but a sawzall, IMHO, is faster and cheaper then renting a root-witch or a chainsaw. <A> I am a petite Asian elder female, 68 yrs old. <S> I was able to cut a few roots of over 2 inches. <S> I digged a hole deep enough for the hand saw movement, wet the cutting section and kept it at least damp during the cutting work, used the root cutting hand saw that can be folded and adjusted to different angles so that I can cut in different directions around the root, and used a regular hand saw additionally when it is possible <A> Use a sawzall or reciprocating saw same thing. <S> You don't even have to dig, it will cut right thru the dirt and root. <S> I use this method all the time by laying a 2x6 on the grond and running the saw through the dirt for many feet on both sides with a 12 inch blade. <S> It sure makes laying electrical conduit or using it with a 2x4 wide for sprinklers systems a breeze. <S> And the dirt comes up in nice cubes.
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If you are comfortable using power tools a Sawz-all also called a reciprocating saw will do the job.
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Is there such a thing as a horizontal tension rod shelf? I want to put up a shelf going the width of a narrow hallway, but cant do any drilling in the walls (our walls are terrible and I rent so I don't want to do any damage). I thought about suspending a few pull up bars and then putting a plank of wood on them, but first wanted to know if there is a more elegant solution. When I google tension rod shelf they are all vertical and I want one that is horizontal. <Q> I've wondered this before, too. <S> Honestly I wouldn't trust a horizontal tension rod shelf unless you're putting lightweight, and not breakable, things on it. <S> I know you're renting, but you could install shelves with braces and then just patch the holes when you leave, assuming you can find similar paint. <S> Another alternative is just something like bookshelves. <A> Pull-up bars sound elegantly ingenious to me. <S> No damage: improvements! <A> I have seen tension shelves popular for kids lockers <S> but I don't think they go bigger than about 18" but try Google for locker shelf's
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But if this is a dead space in a hallway that would never really serve a better purpose than having a shelf, consider installing a real shelf mounted with brackets; one that you'll leave when you move out.
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How do I remove a stuck kitchen aerator tip? I recently moved into a new apartment and need to remove the aerator tip on the Moen kitchen faucet to set up the countertop dishwasher I brought with me from my previous apartment. It was missing the aerator inside and had a bunch of mineral build up to begin with. I've tried everything I found suggested for this issue online and it just won't budge. I tried soaking in vinegar and spraying both inside outside edges of the piece with WD-40 to break up the mineral build up and any rust. I tried (clockwise from above) hand twisting, a wrench, and channel lock pliers both with a cloth and without since it was missing the actual aerator to begin with so I'm not concerned about scratching but it hasn't moved at all, all that I've accomplished is stripping the metal on it. Shy of replacing the entire faucet, is there anything else I can try? <Q> If you look closely, many aerators have a couple flat spots on them, that you could tighten an adjustable wrench on to. <S> That or a strap wrench would have been my first tool. <S> But failing that, and the lack of desire to preserve the original finish, the curved jaw vice grips pictured above should work. <S> The next level, replacement wise, would be to file some flat sides onto the doomed aerator and use a wrench. <S> Dave. <A> I had the similar situation. <S> Finally I used my longest locked plier to unclog it. <S> Yes a lot of metal shed scratched off from the aerator, but it is cheap to replace with a few bucks. <S> Much worthy than changing the whole sink faucet system. <A> ...and following on my comment, locking pliers would be my gripping tool of choice. <S> this flavor with curved jaws: Not this flavor with straight jaws. <S> However, for the level of stuck you have, I would also use a hammer, in conjunction with the locking pliers - put the things on <S> so they are like this picture looking from above, quite tightly. <S> Tap, don't beat (or at least don't start with beating) on the heavier handle with the screw adjuster (making this the unscrew direction is the point of putting on like the picture when looking down from above). <S> If the jaws slide, stop, unclamp, tighten the screw, and clamp harder. <S> The shock of the hammering will help to break things loose. <S> Many small tappings may be more effective (and certainly less damaging to the tools and faucet) than just beating on it as hard as you can. <A> Things expand when heated, and metal is great at this... <S> but the trick is to heat it without running the finish of the metal. <S> If your hot water is hot enough to scald you, that may be enough to loosen it. <S> If you have a heat gun, one would be ideal, or possibly a strong hair dryer. <S> Heat the stuck aerator part more than the neck of the faucet <S> (So it expand more than the threads of the other piece) and then try to remove it with vice grips or pliers. <S> You might be amazed at the difference. <S> Also try CLR cleaner for the mineral deposits and use a small rubber sheet to wrap around the faucet while you use tools so you get a good grip without scratches.
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Otherwise you could try wrapping it in a few layers of tinfoil and using a candle or a LIGHT dose of flame from a blowtorch.
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Continue with Back Wire on GFCI when the wire keeps coming out? Having trouble with the back wire on GFCI's popping free. 20amp, 12 gauge wire. When I fold the wires into the box, they like to come free of the back wire hole. I suspect this is due to the difficulty bending the 20 gauge wire to fit into the box. I've read this which suggests I should be using the back wire on the GFCI. A few other web sources say the same thing. Earlier, I had a problem with just being at the conductor fill limit of what could fit inside the outlet box because I was using two GFCI outlets. I was unhappy with this and am rewiring so each box has one GFI and one normal 20amp outlet downstream. The GFCI is pigtailed. The regular outlet is side wired to the GFCI outlet so it protects the standard outlet. I feel like I should side wire the GFI outlets because they keep popping out from the back wire, BUT numerous sources say that GFCIs should use the back wire. This is a proper back wire that gets screwed down, not the "Quick Wire" push in wiring. I'm hand tightening as much as I'm able. I suspect it's the process of folding the wires into the box, with the 12 gauge being so stiff, that causes the wires to come loose. However, on the outlets I've done so far, I was able to eventually make it work. But in one case, I was getting an error with the GFCI tester, and it was because the neutral wire had popped out. I fixed it, but concerned over the long term if they might work their way out. <Q> I'd have to suspect that you are perhaps not always getting the part where the wire actually ends up between the plates right - to Quote @shirlocks answer "Just be sure to tip the device so the grab plates open before inserting the wires. <S> " If the wires are in the right place and the screws are tight THIS flavor of back wiring is VERY secure (as distinct from the push in springloaded that I will never use.) <S> It is generally advantageous to prebend the wires a bit before stuffing into the box, but there's no way the wires should come out if they are clamped correctly. <S> If the wire is not between the plates (so it's sitting outside them) <S> it's not going to be clamped very well at all. <S> Grab one, (out of the circuit) and look at it carefully under good light with the screws open as you move it around, and you should be able to see what's going on there, and have a better idea of what to look for when putting the wires in. <A> Unless the specific device requires it, there's no requirement to use the back wire terminals. <S> It's simply a personal preference to do it that way. <S> You'll also want to check the markings on the device, and read the documentation, to make sure the back wire terminals are rated to accept 12 AWG conductors. <S> If they're not, you shouldn't be using them with 12 gauge conductors anyway. <A> You could rewire it with stranded wire pigtails, this would add flexibility and relieve stress.
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If you're having trouble using the back wire terminals, it's probably safer for you to not use them (unless of course the device requires it).
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I drilled holes in my brick too big for my anchors. How can I fix this? I am mounting some bike racks to a brick wall (basically, a special hook that you hang your bike on). The holes in the metal bike racks are big enough for #8 screws. I purchased some lead plugs which were supposed to accommodate #8 screws, drilled holes for the anchors in the brick and installed the bike racks. It turns out that the anchors were actually mis-labeled at the store, and are for screw sizes #10 - #14, so the anchors don't expand enough in the brick, and the bike racks don't stay on the wall. My problem is how I can use the existing holes to re-mount the bike racks. If I take out the existing anchors and buy smaller ones to fit the #8 screws, is there some way I can fill the hole so the anchor holds? Is there another kind of anchor that will expand to fill the oversize hole? Is it just easier to buy larger screws and drill a larger hole in the bike racks? Other options? Thanks. <Q> IMO this is the best option. <S> There are dozens of different types of anchors, so it is possible to find one that will be larger but fit the smaller screw. <S> Myself, I'd drill the rack and use the proper screw for the anchors you have. <S> Another possibility, since brick is pretty deep, is to use a longer Tap-Con style screw, like 3" say. <S> You can drill past the old anchor point, but still have plenty of meat for the longer screw to bite. <S> Sure, you can plug the holes with wood <S> but I would not trust a bike rack or similar item <S> hung off such a makeshitft anchor. <A> Epoxy based anchors are a potential alternative provided the epoxy anchor manufacturer's written requirements are met. <A> You could use the large anchors to mount a piece of wood on the wall, then mount the bike hooks to the wood with #8 screws. <S> This may be easier than drilling out the bike hook mounting holes.
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Use larger anchors/screws.
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What's a high R-value insulation material alternative to dimensional lumber Years ago I read somewhere about a building material described like this : a composite/synthetic material (not wood) available in traditional dimensional lumber sizes (e.g. 2x4) rigid enough to have roughly the load bearing capabilities of lumber allows drilling and using fasteners in much the same way you would lumber has a high R-value (more insulating than wood) likely patented and manufactured by a single manufacturer (as opposed to more generic technologies like fiberglass or polyurethane foam) I've since tried to find out what it was but without luck. My use case is to modify a chest freezer by adding a "collar" between the lid and the chest to allow for running beverage lines into the chest freezer. This is a common DIY project for homebrewers called a "keezer". Here's a photo of a typical example. Often the material used to build this collar is dimensional lumber, which the builder then adds insulation to the inside of. I'd like to find out what this alternative building material is that I'd read about in hopes of using it instead. <Q> This thread suggests Azek siding trim http://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=161256&page=2 <A> Lots of things are better insulators than wood. <S> Most of them aren't strong enough to be structural, or not better enough at insulating to bother, since generally people insulate with insulation materials that are designed to be good at that. <S> If the thing you're describing existed, people would almost certainly build houses out of it instead of wood, unless it was ridiculously expensive. <S> Perhaps you're thinking of composite lumber used for decking? <S> This stuff is as strong as wood, and presumably slightly better at insulating given that it is a porous mixture of sawdust, plastic, and glue. <S> It is more expensive though, and since it's not rated as insulation, it's questionable as to whether it's <S> R-value is higher enough to matter. <S> It almost always makes more sense to build the structure out of something strong and insulate that structure with something insulating unless you are not limited by space, cost, or strength considerations (in which case you would use foamglas, aerogel, or polyurethane, respectively). <S> I would stick to using real insulation here. <S> 1 <S> " of XPS foam gives you R-5 at 70 degrees, which rises as the temperature falls below that--a useful characteristic if you're insulating against cold. <S> EPS, mineral wool, and perlite have the same better-at-low-temperatures characteristic. <S> Polyiso is the opposite: it gets better at higher temperatures, and worse at lower temperatures. <A> There is a product called Thermo-Lite which is probably what you want. <S> it's available in a sheet/board form and it contains a closed cell foam with fiberglass reinforcement. <S> It's incredibly nasty to work with (fiberglass dust) and it isn't terribly strong, but it's leagues ahead of any type of foam insulation board that has been suggested. <S> I work in the walk-in freezer/cooler industry and we use this stuff extensively, though I do not know where we order it from. <S> Here's a link to the product I found via google: http://www.merrittsupply.com/products/28728-spaceage-versatile-series-30-lb-thermo-lite-board.aspx <A> Most commonly used in decking. <S> Some is a direct replacement for wood, and yes it is expensive. <S> But your deck will last much longer without maintainance. <S> It comes in different densities and <S> the lighter the greater the r value, but the lower the strength. <S> Unfortunatly there are pretenders in the market place. <S> HDPS with 50% or more wood filler. <S> I guess if it is good for a deck, it probably would work for this. <S> But I always insist in 100% (no filler) HDPS. <S> I think it's all made in China <S> and so it isn't highly marketed against our natural resources in recent years. <S> Google HDPS board and follow the bouncing ball. <A> Practically speaking, SIPs are about it. <S> Sounds like you might be thinking of some of the hopeful but largely unrealized press releases for autoclaved concrete or foamcrete (two different products, both with VERY limited practical availability despite nice websites and articles) though the "dimensional lumber sizing" aspect does not fit with that.
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It's called HDPS (high density polystyrene)
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Does a fluorescent light fixture use more energy than an incandescent? Help me save a friend's marriage! :-) They have 2 light fixtures in their bathroom. One is incandescent with 6 75W bulbs, and the other is a fluorescent fixture with a 22W bulb that looks like it probably a type T9 bulb. Whenever she goes into the bathroom, she turns on the incandescent fixture, because she heard that it is expensive to turn on an fluorescent fixture. In contrast, whenever he goes into the bathroom, he turns on the fluorescent fixture because he knows that 6 75W bulbs uses much more energy than 1 22W bulb. But she argues he winds up using more energy because of the initial draw on the fluorescent bulb. He argues that she winds up using more energy because of all those incandescent bulbs, and the heat they create. I suggested that maybe they replace the incandescent light fixture, but they both said that's not an option right now (they are saving to eventually buy a nice LED one). Then I thought maybe they should replace the fluorescent one, but I questioned whether or not the cost (and waste if they didn't find a new home for the old fixture) would be worth it. What do others think? How much energy does a fluorescent T9 bulb use on start-up? Should they use the fluorescent fixture for long bathroom visits, but the incandescent for short visits? How do you define long and short? Would it be worth it to replace the fluorescent fixture? All in all, I say they are pretty happily married, if this is their biggest argument! :-) <Q> They should use the fluorescent and leave it on if they both are going to use the bathroom within a few minutes of each other. <S> the energy cost of turning it off and on is saved within a few seconds. <S> http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/when-turn-your-lights <A> The fluorescent-start issue is not about energy. <S> It's about tube life . <S> Fluorescents are a type of "discharge light" meaning an electric arc runs down the length of a tube of vapor. <S> Many lights are: the most obvious is neon, but also sodium, mercury and metal halide. <S> To start the tube, the ballast must initially strike the arc. <S> It does this with a spike of high voltage across the electrodes at both ends. <S> They have a chemical coating. <S> Normal operation wears the coating, but starts wear it a lot more. <S> That said, tubes are cheap - cheaper than the electricity needed to run the equivalent incandescents (which also fail sooner from frequent starts, and fail sooner in any case.) <S> Also, smarter ballasts greatly ease startup wear by preheating the bulbs for a soft start, however, this takes a second or two to start up. <S> I don't mind using a programmed start ballast on a motion sensor. <S> The best answer is LED. <S> They are not degraded by frequent cycling, in fact, turning them on/off 500 times a second is one common way to dim them. <A> I once performed a direct study on this subject. <S> I built an apparatus to power-cycle a T12 fluorescent lamp every 60 seconds and an identical lamp every 12 hours. <S> I used both recording watt-meters and standard household electric meters to measure the power consumed. <S> I expected that the power consumption of the filaments during preheat would be different from the power consumption of the ionized arc. <S> Probably more, but possibly less. <S> I was surprised to find that even after 96 hours I detected no measurable difference. <S> I could only guess that the ballast limited the filament current just as it limited the ion arc current. <S> This was so long ago that there was only one kind of ballast available, what we now call a dumb ballast. <S> I don't know what the result would be with a modern fixture. <S> I also applied an oscilloscope to the line side of the ballast and I could see a power spike that lasted less than 1/120 second. <S> I couldn't get a good idea of its magnitude. <S> I theorized that the meters used moving parts and could not practically respond to an event of such short duration. <S> My conclusion was: Yes, a fluorescent lamp does consume a power surge on startup -- but you don't pay for it!
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If your fluorescent fixture is frequently turned on-off, the tubes will fail sooner .
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Best way to locate a specific neutral? How can I determine which neutral in a sub-panel is for a particular (tripped) breaker?We have a sub-panel in the basement for circuits that are supplied by an automatic generator. There are eight breakers in that box, and seven neutral wires on the bar, none of them labeled. (I think one slightly larger wire is for a ganged pair of breakers.) I've tried disconnecting several of the wires, one at a time, but when I try to reset the breaker, it trips again. Could it be shorting to the bar in general, rather than to its associated neutral? I think there may be a hot-to-neutral short somewhere in the circuit, but I need to isolate the correct neutral before further testing.Something tells me it could involve shutting off all eight breakers in that box, and maybe disconnecting the generator so it doesn't fire up (or at least not supply any juice) when I open the main breaker. <Q> You should disconnect all power to your sub-panel (turn off your main breaker and your generator). <S> Be absolutely sure the power is off to avoid serious injury or worse. <S> I'd suggest using a voltage sensor pen to verify the panel is cold. <S> You will need a ohm/continuity meter for this test. <S> Pop the breaker in question out of the panel, leaving the hot wire connected. <S> Turn on the breaker and test continuity between the back of the breaker and the neutral bus. <S> Since the breaker is tripping, you should see continuity/low resistance. <S> If you do not, it's possible the short only exhibits under higher voltage but more likely, you have a bad breaker. <S> Assuming you do see continuity, remove neutral wires one at as time from the bus and recheck continuity. <S> When you lose continuity, you just removed the neutral you're looking for. <A> If you're sure it's a hot-to-neutral short, you could use the following the find the breaker: <S> Remove all the breakers from the panel (leave the hot wires connected to the breakers). <S> Switch the breakers on (still removed). <S> If it is indeed a hot-to-neutral short, you should get a "beep" on the breaker that has the short (but not on the others). <S> From here, you can find the neutral by disconnecting neutral wires from the bus until the continuity stops. <S> Note that this answer only applies when you know there's a hot-to-neutral short on a (only one) circuit. <A> First, never disconnect the neutrals -- basic safety rule. <S> All neutrals are connected together, and also to ground, either at your home entrance and at the utility company, so if you have already disconnect the neutral the short circuit, if any, should be from the phase line to another phase or to the metallic boxes or conduits. <S> Consider also that some thermal/magnetic circuit breakers can go bad, and trip off even with low amps.
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Do a continuity check between the hot on the breaker and the neutral bar. First disconnect all power to the panel (including the generator, like you mentioned).
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Ok to roof-over in the rain? A buddy and I will be installing a second layer of composite shingles over the old ones already on my roof. Should we consider doing any of this in the rain? <Q> It is quite possible to slide off a wet roof even if it's not that steep. <S> Shingles over shingles are not remotely close to vapor-tight, so they will dry eventually. <A> The problem with roofing in the rain especially this time of year is the temperature. <S> The backings on the shingles stick better when it is hot. <S> Even on a reroof the staples are doing some of the bonding <S> but it is really the "glue" on the shingles that hold them flat. <S> Not saying it won't stick <S> but this is why it is best to roof in the summer. <S> If it sticks well initially you won't have issues later down the line. <A> I would say no - do not install the shingles in the rain. <S> I say that in particular because I highly discourage you from piling new shingles on top of old ones. <S> Any short cut that you get out of such an installation with new shingles on top of old ones is highly leveraged into a shortened life span for your new roofing material. <S> New shingles will also look much better after a few years if they are installed on a properly flat surface. <S> Another aspect that gets missed with the short cut scheme is that you miss the ability to properly inspect the under sheathing for integrity. <S> It may be that there are boards that need to be replaced due to dry rot of other types of damage. <S> And probably one of the most important considerations is that flashing, trim / drip edges and valleys are greatly compromised when trying to leverage the old stuff or cover it up.
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And removing the old roofing is not something you want to be doing in the rain.
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Are there special pocket hole screws? I purchased a pocket hole jig and it comes with screws. Are these special pocket hole screws? Is there a type of screw I should be using with pocket holes, or would any wood screw work just as well? <Q> Yes, those are special pocket hole screws. <S> Standard wood screws may work, but you are forced between trying to center a pilot hole at the bottom of your pocket or risk splitting the piece you're screwing into. <S> As far as finding more of them, just search for " pocket hole screws ". <S> Most of the big box home improvement stores should carry them. <S> Kreg Pocket Hole Screw with flat head to engage step in drilled hole and thread cutting flute to prevent wood splitting. <A> Any screw with a flat shoulder will work just fine. <S> The trick is not splitting the material or protruding. <S> Have a close look at the end of the included drill bit. <S> It has a tip that creates the beginning of the pilot hole for the screw. <S> Make that hole deeper and the proper diameter <S> and you can use any kind of fastener you want. <A> I used self-drilling screws instead of Kreg screws. <S> It worked just fine in plywood. <S> Even without additional drilling.
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They're basically just self drilling wood screws (which is why they have the fluted tips).
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How can I make my garage door quieter? My garage door is loud. I didn't realize this until I visited a friend who has a garage door that's nearly silent. He says he has a belt-driven door opener and nylon door wheels, while I have chain-driven opener with metal wheels. Are these really making his garage door quieter, or is my noise generated by something else? If so, are these parts user-replaceable? <Q> I repaired and installed residential garage doors and openers as well as commercial and industrial doors and operators for twelve Years. <S> The steel rollers don't make a really big differance. <S> They will click as they turn if they are a year or more old but that can usually be stopped by using a lubricant. <S> WD-40 is great for cleaning out the grime/dirt but doesn't leave a residue being that will keep them quiet. <S> My recommendation is to buy a belt drive operator from a dealer. <S> I say a dealer because they get the solid one-piece rail, whereas the 'sears' ones have to be assembled and retightened once every year or twp. <A> ATOH did a quick video on limiting the vibrations: http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1631898,00.html Mount the opener floating from some thick rubber straps <A> I used lots of grease in the tracks where the wheels of the doors roll. <S> That has helped. <S> If you have the time and energy, try the following: Take the door completely off and replace the wheels with smaller ones; with the wheels about 1/2 inch smaller than the inside diameter of the tracks. <S> Line the tracks with strips of 1/4 inch thick rubber. <S> Be sure to include the insides of the curved edges as well as the track. <S> Reinstall the door. <S> I have seen this done somewhere a long time ago <S> and it made an enormous difference.
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You are going to notice a big difference if you change your opener/operator to a belt drive though.
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Sash window design / security - parting bead vulnerable to attack? I'm currently trying to design a timber box sash window. I've had a look at both "traditional" designs from books, and more modern double-glazed window designs, and most have the same general arrangement: There are two sashes in the frame, the top/outer sash and the bottom/inner sash. The outer frame is built as a box in the factory. On site, the frame is fitted into the brickwork (often behind a reveal to mask the large sections needed to house the balance weights). Next the outer sash is placed into the frame, the parting bead (which separates the two sashes, acting as a runner, and also holding the outer sash in place against the frame rebate) is hammered into a groove in the frame, then pinned into place with glazing pins or similar. Then the bottom sash is placed into the frame, and the staff bead on the inside is pinned in over the top to hold this sash in and also act as a runner face. The sashes then lock together in the closed position by a catch at the meeting rails. What gets me is that the parting bead is what's keeping the bottom sash from being pulled out to the outside of the frame, but it's also visible/accessible from the outside. What's to stop somebody either chiselling off or levering away the parting bead, then yanking the bottom sash out of the frame towards them? I've found a product that claims to address this here but the end result is that the parting bead is fixed into place via screws which are still accessible from the outside of the frame. They call it "secure" because the screwdriver bit needed is a "Torx" bit (star key), but in my experience any standard multi-bit set has a number of these in these days, so they're not exactly exotic and this doesn't really seem to solve anything. How can I change the fixing method of the parting bead or alter the design in such a way that it's secure? Assume that the frame is fitted with the most secure glazing available - I'm not interested in debates about the glazing as this is largely a solved problem. <Q> Being in the security trade, I can tell you that burglars are smart. <S> It doesnt really matter if they know about that particular shortcoming or not. <S> The main element to theft is speed. <S> It will simply take too long to fiddle around with the bead strip in the hope to neatly displace the window. <S> If someone wanted to get into your house a crowbar and a good kick will do the job just as well! <S> With that said.. <S> its your job to make as many aspects of your home as secure as possible. <S> The sash security parting bead is probably the best thing you can do if you dont like the bolts, try fixing it with one way screws <S> Another option is to drill a metal pin into the bottom portion of the bead, but you may end up doing some damage. <S> Or you could get some brass or stainless screws drill pilot holes into the bottom of the beading, set your screw till the head is almost in, then get a hacksaw and remove the head of the screw, then polish with a file.. <S> that way, if they remove the beading there will still be a pin to make life more difficult. <A> I know this is an ancient thread. <S> The lower sash still can't be pulled out of the house because the portion of the window frame that holds the upper sash in also prevents removal of the lower sash. <S> In my victorian that frame is substantial, and is not letting any intact sashes out, period. <A> Any theif will find a way in, if they really want to get inside. <S> Them main thing is to make your property less inviting than next door! <S> On a sash, the outside of the frame has no beads. <S> The sash box retains the sashes. <S> Breaking the windows is just as easy an quicker than fiddling about with beads...
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As long as the sashes are locked together, then they are reasonable secure.
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How do I find a replacement door lock for this? I moved into a newly built home and am trying to replace the deadbolt and the lever below. But I'm not able to find a replacement lock that replaces my existing locks. All locks I've looked at have rectangular plates that need to be screwed onto the side of the door (see the picture, but I have circular openings on the door with no screws and no rectangular latch plate). I see "Fortis" labeled on one of the deadbolts. Can anybody help me identify this door lock? <Q> If you are having a hard time finding the strikes that do not have the rectangular plate, many latchset makers have the round ones like you have in the box with the others. <S> Seems to me that they make the bolts or latch fit into any situation. <S> According to one of the manufacturers the type of bolt you are looking for is called a "drive-in" latch Or as Ecnerwal suggests, although it may take longer than 5 minutes for a newbie to mortise in the rectangular ones. <S> All it takes is a razor knife, chisel and hammer <A> Fortis is a schlage product. <S> go onto their web site and you might find what you are looking for. <S> but most schlage products the parts are interchangeable so you can buy new locks and just reuse the latches. <A> I know these are older posts <S> but I found it looking for the answer to the same question. <S> If you search "drive in latch" with the brand name of the lock you are trying to get a round insert lock for instead of the latch plate that you have to carve the door for you will find what you are looking for. <S> You can buy JUST the dead bolt insert part that matches your lock for cheap. <S> I paid less than five bucks a piece for mine. <A> This looks to be like a schlange or kwikset lockset commonly found at Home Depot. <S> You can easily re-cylinder this, <S> but it isn't obvious how to get the lock off. <S> My solution was as follows: <S> Rotate the lever to the vertical position. <S> There will be two screws hidden under it. <S> Remove them, and separate the lock into two halves. <S> The lock-half has a cover on it. <S> Remove it. <S> There's a screw that holds the cylinder in. <A> Your best bet is to take it off and take it to your local locksmith. <S> You will have a hard time getting it out and should use a Phillips screwdriver to pull it toward you. <S> This type of deadbolt is called a "slam in deadbolt" (at least thats what I call it). <S> You may need to tap the screwdriver with a hammer to get the old one out and the new one in.
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You can also get a lock/lever combination, as well as new doorknobs -- in many cases you can re-use the existing deadbolt and striker latch and just change the visible hardware.
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Is there a simple way to convert from a pull switch to a toggle switched light fixture? I would like to replace a bathroom vanity light fixture in 100 year old house. It currently has a pull string on/off switch. Is there a simple way to convert to a switched light fixture? The switch can be located fixture. How can I simply surface mount a switch for a new vanity light? <Q> The easiest-to-install solution to your issues is a length of 14/3 run in surface raceway and used as a switch loop. <S> You'll want a circular raceway box at the light fixture, and a single gang raceway box at the switch , by the way. <S> (Also note that the non-metallic raceway recommended by dfife's answer won't work here -- <S> Legrand, for some reason, doesn't make round extension boxes for their non-metallic raceways, just for their metal ones.) <S> Diagram (originally appropriated for this Stack by Tester101 and reused here): <A> Good question. <S> There's a couple of options you have (if I understand your question correctly): <S> Tap into a power source (e.g., a receptacle), run the wire (typically behind the walls) to a switch, then run wire from the switch to the fixture. <S> This is the standard approach (but may require an electrician). <S> (See how-to-wire-it for examples of how to run the wire). <S> Tap into the power source and run the wire outside the wall and cover the wires with raceway wire channels , to the lightswitch, then to the light. <S> Plug in to a receptacle and connect the same as #2. <S> Option 3 is easiest but most conspicuous. <S> #1 isn't that hard, you just have to know what you're doing (lest ye die) and you may have to remove then subsequently repair drywall. <S> Hope that helps. <A> For the switch, you'd use an "old work" electrical box, like the ones with tabs that open up and clamp against the back of the sheetrock (or lathe and plaster) when you tighten them.
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If you have attic access you can drill into the wall cavities from above and fish cable down to the fixture and to a new switch.
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How can I repair a poor drywall taping job? For my first-ever drywall taping attempt, I (predictably) messed up. Taped the walls (three coats), then added primer (two coats) and semi-gloss Behr paint (two coats). Reinstalled my lighting and decided everything looks terrible. I've been told I should either sand the paint/drywall down or put more mud over the whole thing. I don't know what I'm doing, but I do want this to look good. Are there good techniques/approaches to get me out of my mess? More pictures here <Q> The whole wall doesn't need a skim coat. <S> The picture does a good job highlighting what you failed to do: bevel any divots or ridges with a sanding sponge during the final sanding. <S> This is not something you can do easily with a pole sander; it'd be easier with just the paper in your hand if you've no sanding sponge. <S> Fudge it . <S> It doesn't have to be flat, it just has to <S> not have any ridges that will catch light and show the imperfection. <S> Keep this in mind when sanding the extra coat you're going to put on, to fill these giant voids, that are next to the ridges that are covered in paint and are at this point basically unsandable. <S> Mudding an optically flat wall is beyond most people's abilities (if not, the general realm of possibility). <S> The closet you're going to get (or ever really need to) is 'looks' flat: nominal . <S> If you can feel a 'catch' with your fingers, you're not done sanding yet. <A> Ugh. <S> The paint is just going to make what should be pretty easy rather more difficult. <S> Even your drywall pros sand stuff - they just waste far less time than amateurs trying to get the mud perfect (and messing it up more) - get it on, get it dry, sand, next coat. <S> Drywall mud is made to be easily sanded. <S> Paint, not so much. <S> Don't even think about painting it (next time) until the surface is about perfect. <S> Start sanding. <S> The only way out of this mess is to get through it, which will be something of a chore with all that paint on there. <S> Always use a block of some sort when sanding drywall - you want to knock off the high points and leave the low ones alone (then fill the low ones left with mud, dry, repeat....) ..and (perhaps now more obvious to you) <S> don't work in the dark - bring in bright, harsh portable lighting and get it on the walls as unflatteringly as possible so you can see what you are doing. <S> This is what I use cheesy halogen worklights for... <A> You need to get a wire brush and scratch the hell out of your wall in the bad area and a little outside of it. <S> Add mud to flatten area. <S> Let it dry. <S> Scrape any high areas (with mud knife). <S> Add a big layer of mud for a second coat. <S> Scrape then thoroughly sand. <S> You are going to have to prime and paint the area. <S> If you just slightly prime the already painted wall but use a thicker coating for the new wall you can do this where it is basically unnoticeable. <S> This is a total of a couple hours over 3 days. <S> I would try to remove as many things from room or tarp since to sand right <S> you will make a mess. <S> (I am guessing from your pic - and it isn't very good - that you are not using enough mud and not sanding enough. <S> If done right you only sand on your last coat - a lot. ) <A> Apply a coat of primer over the whole thing and allow to completely dry. <S> Use setting type 90, light weight joint compound, in small batches, to smooth out the imperfections. <S> (It comes in a bag.) <S> Do not sand between coats - <S> if you do, use a <S> well wrung sponge, to remove excess dust, before applying another coat of mud. <S> Use the edge of a knife/trowel, to knock down any ridges/clumps, prior to additional coats of mud. <S> When you are satisfied, that you have a reasonably uniform surface, begin blending in the edges, with 120 grit drywall sandpaper. <S> You can use 100 grit on thicker sections or ridges, but try to stick with the 120 as much as possible, following up with 120, if you use 100 on any spots. <S> (Attach the sandpaper to a proper sanding pad/block - the bigger, the better. <S> Take your time, and start with the small spots first, gradually moving towards the bigger sections, as you build confidence, in your work. <S> When in doubt about drying times, there is nothing wrong with overnight - you'd be amazed what a fresh outlook in the morning, can add to the experience. <S> The wider the area, that you cover with mud, and subsequently blend into the surface below it - the flatter, the finished surface will appear, when painted. <S> If you have a portable shop light, or an old table lamp - put it opposite of you, close to the wall, while sanding, using the shadows, to even out the surface. <S> (Turn off the decorative lamp, in the pictures too.) <A> Make it easy on yourself if you can. <S> Sand <S> as much of the paints gloss off as you can. <S> With a 10" or larger mud knife or trowel add more mud in a thicker layer. <S> If there are ridges that is ok. <S> Go back and add a thin layer of mud that you have slightly thinned with water or later/acrylic paint. <S> Just a couple of spoon full of either. <S> As you trowel it on the thinner mud will deal the low places. <S> Wipe <S> your tool dampen <S> it's edge and work from bottom to top or vice versa. <S> Make sure the trowel is almost flat on the wall. <S> Wipe off excess from your trowel. <S> If large clumps start to adhere to the tool... <S> Dampen the tool again. <S> You can do it I did. <S> It was my 1st time also.
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That patch just needs touch-up spackle, sanded correctly. Use a swirling motion to reduce any deviation to a nominal profile. Do not sand or scuff up anything.
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how to blackout a large bedroom window on a budget? I am renting an apartment that comes with blinds - that I can not remove or replace - but they are not very effective at blocking the light in the morning. I can not remove the existing blindsI want to keep the room light during day so no sticker or dark foilmy budget is limited and I would like to avoid buying and installing heavy curtains.How do I darken the room on a budget? Any DIY tips are welcome. Someone suggested pinning fabric inside the blinds but I am not sure how effective that is? What kind of fabric should I buy to try this?This is for a baby room, so he doesn't wake up with the sunrise :) <Q> With a small finger hole or notch <S> cut out so you can pull it out easily. <S> Thick cardboard would be best so it doesnt bend. <S> Practically free, blocks all light, does no damage, and can easily be removed in the morning and put back in at night. <A> What I've done in the past is use Command Adhesive hooks to hold a curtain rod, then hang a curtain from that. <S> This is rental-friendly, as there are no permanent hangers installed, and it can be moved as needed. <S> It's a bit more expensive than cardboard, but should have a better appearance. <A> Walk into a fabric store and ask for advice on making "blackout drapes". <S> They'll sell you something suitably heavy for the purpose; this is a fairly standard request. <S> but you did ask for a budget solution. <S> This does imply doing at least enough sewing to hem the material, of <S> you want it to last, but again you're trading lower cost for spending some time and effort on them.
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A sheet of cardboard cut to fit the window frame tightly. Adding that behind a cheap set of drapes,or getting a more attractive face fabric to sandwich it with, will do a pretty good job of blocking outside light; not completely I'm still using a set of blackout drapes my mother made 40 years ago.
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How can I align 2 holes 1.5m apart? I need to drill 2 holes in a concrete wall, about 1.5m apart and I need the line between them to be as horizontal as possible. I have a level, not that big, and few other basic tools. How can I align them properly? <Q> Borrow a laser level Borrow a 4 foot mason's level <S> Now pick a point on the wall that will be your left hole and two points on your chalked line. <S> Use a wire and measure the distance from the hole to the upper point on your chalk line. <S> Draw an arc on the opposite side of the wall. <S> Repeat for the lower point on your chalk line; where they intersect is the location of your other hole. <A> Hold this length of wood up against the wall in a horizontal position and set your level atop it. <S> The wood can then be repositioned till the level shows a "level" position on its bubble. <S> The wood piece effectively extends your level and should work very well unless the level is one of those really cheap short 5cm to 10cm jobs. <S> Once the wood piece is positioned properly you can draw a line along the top and have a good level reference. <S> You can pre-mark <S> two positions on the wood piece that are 1.5 meters apart so that you can know just where to draw short marks instead of having to mark a huge line across your wall. <A> Water levels and long bits of wood are good solutions. <S> Alternately, drill one hole; have a helper run string from there; level from the taut string and mark your next hole. <S> (When marking the second hole, try to account for any wandering that the drill bit did when you drilled the first hole.) <A> Get yourself a length of clear plastic tubing from the hardware or auto parts store. <S> For your application it would be good if this tubing was 5 or 6 meters long. <S> Now hold the two ends of the tubing up in the air with the remainder of the tubing hanging down. <S> (It can be extremely beneficial to have a helper for this process). <S> Fill up a good portion of the tube with water but keep maybe a quarter or third of a meter of unfilled tubing at each end. <S> The ends of the tubing need to stay open to the atmosphere. <S> The water top in each upraised end of the tube will be level with respect to each other. <S> As long as the two tube tops are held at the approximately same height you can move this around to use as a "level". <S> If it is a little hard to see the water top through the tube because the tubing is not really clear you can mix food coloring into the water to make it easier to see. <S> Mark <S> the position of where you want one of your holes. <S> Then measure over your 1.5 meters distance from the first mark at an approximate horizontal position and make a vertical tick mark. <S> Now with your helper position one end of the tubing with its water level top matching the first mark and the other one near where the second vertical tick was placed. <S> Once equilibrium is reached and the water level is at the first mark you can make a horizontal tick at the water top across the vertical tick. <S> This will mark two spots that are level with respect to each other. <S> If it is really hard to estimate the "approximately level" place to mark the vertical tick you can use a string from the first mark and measure over the 1.5 meters and draw an arc instead of the short vertical tick. <S> Then when the water level is brought into position you mark across the arc instead to get the level position for the second hole mark. <A> Simply: <S> Mark your first hole. <S> Use your spirit level (assuming its a good one and not a tiny boat level etc) to mark a horizontal line from the first hole out towards the second hole position. <S> Flip the level <S> around 180 degrees lengthways and continue the line towards the second hole. <S> Keep flipping the level around each time you need to move until you get to the position you want the second hole. <S> When drilling be mindful that the 'twist' factor as you start each hole heads in the same direction! <S> It's quite easy to start off with two level marks but end up with two slightly out of level holes. <S> Kind of a small version of this principle... <S> It works <S> because turing the level around each time (in theory) cancels out any inaccuracy in the spirit level. <S> Of course it requires very careful observation of the bubble, every time, plus careful marking. <A> A tripod & a lazermeter might be an okeyish solution.level the tripod to the desired height and put & turn on the lazermeter.each point <S> snap it takes on the wall will be paralel.
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If you have a shorter level than the distance between two hole positions you can find yourself a piece of wood that is say 2 meters long that can be seen to be nice and straight. Don't use a level -- use a plumb bob and HS geometry Make a plumb bob by hanging a heavy and centered weight from a chalk line and snap it in the center of your desired holes. . One method to do this if you do not have access to a long level is to use a water level.
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How can I speed up the removal of stubborn tile? I am trying to remove tile from the bathroom floor. It was installed in the 70s, and the pieces are tiny, 1 in x 1 in. I've been hammering away but they're not coming up very easily. Is there a product I can use to loosen them up? <Q> With these types of tiles you do not want them to break as they are harder to demo when they are in bits and shards. <S> Also this method severely damages the subfloor, sometimes to the point that you will have to put a new subfloor in. <S> What you simply want is a mallet or a hammer. <S> Let me be really clear <S> since I have demo'ed at least 50 of these bathrooms now <S> and I think I have it down to a science. <S> Start in a corner. <S> Hammer the edge tiles flat. <S> When I say hammer, imagine that you are playing drums in marching band, not hammering a nail. <S> You want some force but not enough to break the tiles (they are usually hard to break when striking straight down). <S> Bring hammer up 8-12 inches with each strike, hitting a small area repetitively. <S> The first couple of rows might take 20-30 taps for a small group of tiles. <S> This method does not "remove the tile", it removes the thinset bond to the subfloor. <S> The tiles will just disengage from the floor. <S> Don't just tap right at the edges. <S> If I have an edge then I am tapping in a 6-10" perimeter in the area. <S> Clean-up is easy since most of your tiles are in one piece. <S> I can usually get a decent size floor demo'ed and cleaned in 2 hours this way. <S> Note: <S> One of my contractors does this via air compressor and flat air hammer bit. <S> After I showed him the method he went and got a flat bit that I think was made for pounding out auto bodies. <S> You have to be careful with this because the force sometimes is too much or too repetitive <S> and it will crack tile. <S> I personally don't think it is faster <S> but you could argue it is less labor intensive <S> - he spends more time cleaning up. <A> Step one, which I hope you are already doing - put on a pair of safety glasses. <S> You may also want earplugs, and gloves. <S> Use a masonry chisel (nearly parallel to the floor) to get under it and lift it up. <S> You can also drive it into the grout joints, but if you already have a few tiles out, driving under the remaining ones from the area where some are removed is usually more efficient. <A> You'd be amazed how easily a bit of heat helps. <S> Try a paint stripping heat gun and treat the tiles as if they were paint. <S> Depends on the adhesive, but it might be the easy way to get them off.
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If you try to use a scraper (even power) what inevitably ends up happening is the top of the tile comes off, leaving the much harder to remove bottom on. The hardest part about this type of demo is on your knees (I would pick hammer/knee pads over compressor/hammer bit).
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Should I lock the door between my garage and my house? My house has a garage. The garage has a "garage opener" - so when I leave home, I press a button and the gate lowers. There's a door between the garage and house. What level of security do people usually give this door? What kind of lock do I need. Is the external garage door considered as secure as a dead bolted door? Is it unwise to simply leave the internal garage door unlocked just like any other internal door in my house? I understand that I should err on the side of caution, but I just wanted to get an idea for what the "standards" are. <Q> If your garage door opener is made in the last 10-15 years, it's almost certainly impossible to "hack" the code. <S> Modern openers use unique codes for each remote with 64- or 128-bit keys (which allow for a ridiculously huge number of possibilities). <S> However, it can be really easy to break into a garage mechanically, using the quick release: <S> As others have said, once inside, someone is free to work on the door. <S> Often the walls between the garage and house are nothing more than drywall with insulation in it, so it's also possible to simply cut/smash the drywall and go around the locked door. <S> A locked door may thwart a crime of opportunity (if the garage door is left open, for example) but if someone actually goes through the effort of opening the door it doesn't really seem like a really big obstacle. <A> I think it all depends on yourself. <S> Just remember that if someone is intruding in your garage already they can pretty much break that door without to much disturbance form outside. <S> If your concern is slightly better security yes lock it. <S> Only real regulatory concern that I know of is that inside garage doors (at least where I live in South Africa) need to be fire resistant. <S> So in general they are much stronger (except for hinges and lock). <S> I generally lock the door from inside when sleeping as it provides another barrier to entry. <S> If you are concerned about break-in safety rather have a sensor fitted to the garage door and a PIR inside the garage. <S> These are my views. <S> Everyone will have slightly different views depending on what they see as priorities. <S> Take the arguments and adjust to your own taste. <A> It mostly depends on the type of garage door (composite slider, thin aluminium, or solid wood flip up etc... ) <S> but generally the automated motors connected to your door are extremely tough at preventing a forced opening (i.e by hand) <S> The problem comes where most garage openers have a quick release coupler which is made from plastic (i.e it can get brittle). <S> I have seen it that my door can release the coupler with enough force from the outside. <S> So you would need to assess your garage door first. <S> The other issue is most garage doors can be set to back up in the event of a collision, so if there is something in the way, you may drive off and have it open up again without you noticing. <S> Another issue is signal mirroring on your remote, Depending on the remote, some older types can be copied fairly easily (this is extremely rare) <S> With that said.. <S> (in the crime ridden area where I live) many hi-jackings occur when you are getting out of the car, If someone does attempt to follow you into your house, its always a good idea to have a slam-lock style gate from the garage to the house so that you can escape into the safety of the house. <A> I recall several cases where a car was stolen from the airport long-term parking lot, the car's GPS system directed the thieves straight to the car owner's house ("Home" or "Location #1"), the garage door opener in the vehicle let them in and they used the tools in the garage to open the interior door. <S> Load up the car with valuables then drive away. <S> The outer garage door is the weakest entry point in most houses - it's usually a single layer of thin lumber with locks that can best be described as a speedbump. <S> The inner garage door is basically no different than your back door, except it has a shelter around it to hide anyone working on the door. <S> If it's daytime, the sound of power tools from inside the garage would be normal. <A> I've never had an attached garage <S> but if I did, I'd have a gate latch deadbolt because I'd be too lazy to lock it every time and wouldn't want to forget. <S> I have one installed in a common area with a stay-unlocked-lever for convenience (for taking out the trash, ect.) <S> I'd at least have a classic deadbolt to throw when I'm home. <S> I've driven down many an alley that had a open door, whether forgotten to be closed or opened by a stray RF signal, I'll never know... <S> even when I've come home to find my own door open. <S> If you live in Chicago, the answer is yes . <S> Canada probably not, eh? <A> Add a second remote to turn off (deenergize the outlet) your opener, after you lower your door. <S> This will prevent an opening by a casual hacker. <S> There are a number of remotes available for home automation, some are plug in and would not require any wiring. <S> The Z-wave solutions come to mind(which would require a hub. <S> I did this back in the day with an X-10 remote keyfob and a plug in switch module for a customer whose neighbor was activating her garage remote accidentally. <A> Would locking it make it more secure? <S> Sure. <S> Does it matter? <S> Only if you aren't home. <S> Anyone who breaks into your garage when you aren't home will certainly use the garage cover to break through the door if you aren't home. <S> Unless you have a steel door on a steel frame this is probably short work. <S> If you are home, I have never heard of someone opening up the garage door to get into the house. <S> Thieves/Bad guys aren't this dumb. <S> Garage doors are loud and this certainly would alert you more than them going through a window or picking another door. <S> So general advice, if you are gone for more than the day, lock it. <S> Other than that <S> it probably doesn't matter since there are far easier ways in your house.
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Most garage door mechanisms can be forced open with very little noise, so locking the inside door does provide some additional safety.
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Is it acceptable to use a ground wire from one outlet to ground another? I live in a condo/apt. Two of my three prong electrical outlets were not showing up grounded when I plugged my surge protector in. I think from lightning or something. I need to plug computers and an air conditioner in, so we called the superintendent. In the end, he came over with some wire from Canadian Tire and attached a ground wire from the one good electrical outlet to the other one outlet. The wire he attached goes around the walls of the room like a cable wire to the other outlet. Since he has done this, I keep noticing weird lighting on peoples faces when I watch T.V., but I can't put my finger on it. Should he have fixed the problem using a ground wire from a good outlet, to fix the other two? Is it safe? Can it cause problems with my T.V. or other electrical equipment? <Q> You have two things going on here: <S> The superintendent's repair may or may not be acceptable <S> -- if he used a bare or green wire, or single conductor MC cable (unlikely), it can be considered OK in jurisdictions that have adopted the 2014 NEC (you'll have to check to see if the Canadians have caught up to this change). <S> Do you have a tube-type TV? <S> If so, you have an objectionable current flowing on the superintendent's ground wire, which is causing magnetic field emission which is interfering with your TV. <S> I'd have the superintendent pull the outlet(s) that test as properly grounded and check for a "bootleg ground" jumper between neutral and ground; trying to use the "ground donation" provisions in 250.130(C) <S> point 4 with a bootleg ground jumper present could cause this as stray currents circulate through the EGC and bonding network back to the main ground/neutral bond jumper. <A> I'm reasonably certain that this is not an acceptable repair method even though Canadian electrical code and US electrical code are not the same. <S> I'd suggest complaining (or asking for them to check out this "repair" that was performed) to a higher authority (municipal inspector) to get the problem corrected, correctly and to applicable codes. <A> Sorry for the delayed response. <S> My T.V is not a tube <S> T.V. <S> It has definitely been affected by something he has done. <S> I would describe the picture as, Greyer faces and a bright picture. <S> Tiny bits of distortion at times. <S> Although, I'm sure when he comes back, he will look at the T.V and say it's fine. <S> Of course I want it to be safe. <S> I have to plug an A/C into one of these 3 prong plugs. <S> You guys obviously know about electricity. <S> I just want my amazing T.V back. <S> And it was amazing. <S> He's not an electrician, but they say he is like one or something..
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I'm not as concerned about whether he was allowed to do it this way as much as I am how it can be corrected.
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Can I connect laundry tub drain directly into floor drain? I would like to install a laundry room tub directly over the floor drain. Can I simply have the tub drain directly into the top of the floor drain? <Q> You most likely will overflow the floor drain and damage your surrounding walls/floors. <A> This is simple to test. <S> The typical faucets on one of those tubs let water absolutely gush out; there is no resistance. <S> Likewise, your outside spigot for a hose has no resistance. <S> If we assume the pipe size to your sink and the pipe size to your hose spigot are the same: <S> Get a 5 gallon bucket and stopwatch Time how long it takes to fill the bucket up most of the way from your hose spigot Dump bucket over drain and see how long it takes to drain Double that time because you could potentially have the hot and cold running full blast at the same time If your fill time is faster than your drain time doubled, your laundry room could flood. <S> If your doubled drain time is less than your fill time, you should be in the clear <S> *Don't dump the whole bucket at once. <S> Dump enough to cover the drain with an inch of water and keep dumping enough so that the drain is never exposed to air during this test. <S> It is highly unlikely that your drain can handle more water than your spigot produces. <A> Floor drains should have a grate. <S> Placing your drain pipe so that it pours through the grate will protect your floor drain but the grate will eventually clog. <S> Make sure you can see and remove any gunk buildup. <S> If there are other sources of water that could be using the same drain simultaneously, testing the flow rate of only your tub may not be useful. <S> A pool store will stock all the drain parts (elbows and such), flexible hose and filter baskets (normally used in skimmers) you may need. <S> If there is still a flooding concern, it may be wise to get a flood sensor. <S> There are one time use sensors, and those who have alarm systems can connect a flood sensor to it to be advised even if no one is home. <S> Some alarm systems can be programmed to close an electric valve, such as your water main for example, when an alarm such as a flood sensor is triggered. <S> Also useful if your hot water tank leaks and many insurance companies will offer a rebate if one is installed.
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Regardless of your floor drain's capacity (to handle the flow rate from your sink, tub or whatever), consider placing a ball valve in the piping between your tub and floor drain and keep it partially closed if you have any concerns.
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Install floor tile or tile-board first? We are updating a small basement bathroom. We agree on the style and materials, but not exactly on the method of installation. The idea is to put tile down on the floor, and use tile-board for the walls. Do we install the floor tile first, or the tile-board first? Thanks for the help! <Q> Floor first. <S> Tile. <S> Cut out the the bottom of the drywall so that the tile can sit underneath it. <S> Throw some cardboard on top of your tile, sit tile board on tile and put it up. <S> Pull out cardboard. <S> Caulk the gap. <S> You are done and everything looks perfect. <A> But, a professional tiler will do the walls first most of the time, so they can get the job done faster. <S> After you do the floor, you can't do the walls until the floor sets. <A> Seems kinda like washing a car....from the top down. <S> Once that NEW pretty tile is on the floor, you will have to protect it for the remainder of the project. <S> Dirty boots, dropped tools, grout drips all will have to be guarded against to avoid damage.
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The general consensus is that for the purpose of quality, it's best to do the floor first.
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How to fix a warped parquet floor? Less than one year ago my parquet floor was sanded and about 50% of it was replaced with new wood strips, sealed, and then buffed. Now, if my lovely cats happen to knock over their water and it spills on the floor, I end up with a few warped strips. It makes sense that water seeping into wood would warp it but shouldn't there be some resilience to this? Any suggestions on how to repair the warped strips? I was thinking of something like mineral oil and a dumbbell. <Q> You can try whatever to the board that is warped. <S> If it works great, if it doesn't you are back to square one. <S> Mineral oil plus dumbbell may work, but it is a factor of the amount of space that is there below the wood. <S> I seriously doubt you are going to condense the water logged wood. <S> So your objective would just be to have the wood flat on the surface. <S> Often for small areas this has a decent chance of working. <S> If you want your hardwood floor to be a bit more resistant to water than you need to hit it with a few coats of polyurethane. <S> With cats this seems like a no brainer to me since if they piss it will soak into the floor (and possibly smell like cat pee forever). <A> Here's the process I was told was to use: <S> Spread some sawdust over the curvy board with filler, as if you were going to pile some dirt to even out the field. <S> Use some sand paper to smoothen out the filler, which will stiffen <S> Then coat it with a smooth finish <S> Alternatively, just remove a small sector of the board, turn it into a T formation into a bottom upside down half T at each end, sand, then coat and finito. <A> Wait for it to dry.... <S> I have seen parquet that has been completely under water for several days, (and which was warped) to recover completely. <S> Basically there is nothing you can do but wait.... <S> everything else would be worse. <S> Recovery depends mostly on type of wood.
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Your other option if the wood is just bulging is to sand it down.
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Is there code that states there must be a sheet of plastic between vinyl siding and the house sheathing? I'm the president of a 20-condo association and several residents have been complaining of water coming in and destroying their drywall. The water is coming in at the exact same place in all units and the residents claim they didn't have this problem until we had a company replace all of our siding a few years back. The owner of the company who did the siding said that we need to caulk around the J channels to keep the water from coming in. I had a company come out and look at it and they said that the problem is that there's no layer of plastic wrapping between the siding and sheathing. He said different counties/cities/states have different codes for siding installation. Is there indeed a code for this type of thing? Where would I look to find this specific code for my area? What keywords should I be looking out for? <Q> Yes. <S> What he was talking about was the "water-resistive barrier." <S> (WRB) <S> This is typically Tyvek housewrap (a kind of vapor-permeable plastic) or grade D building paper (tar-soaked paper). <S> All wood-framed buildings need one of these, or else any water that penetrates the siding can contact the sheathing, and will quickly rot it out and infiltrate inside. <S> All buildings in jurisdictions covered by a building code are legally bound by this requirement. <S> If your condo building was re-sided by somebody who removed the WRB and did not put another one, you have an emergency situation on your hands. <S> You need to IMMEDIATELY have someone remove the vinyl siding, replace any water-damaged sheathing, studs, and drywall, and install a proper WRB behind new siding. <S> This is not optional. <S> If you fail to do this, the building could be rendered structurally unsound and effectively uninhabitable due to mold; the aforementioned building materials are highly vulnerable to water. <S> It will cause them to grow mold, become soft, and get eaten by termites. <S> Another possibility, because the residents say the water is coming in at the same place in each unit, is that the windows were not flashed properly--especially if that place is under any windows. <S> This is a more common error than forgetting the WRB entirely but no less important to fix in a climate where it rains. <S> A common error is not lapping the WRB over the top flange, but rather nailing the flange over the WRB--which allows any water flowing down the WRB above the window to get behind the window's flange and into the wall. <S> Needless to say, if there is no WRB at all, the windows are by definition improperly flashed, and could easily be the water infiltration points. <S> It is highly likely that you have an actionable legal case against the company that installed the vinyl siding if either of these defects can be proven. <S> Unfortunately, any company that will make such galling errors is unlikely to be well-insured. <A> The actual code requirements depend on your municipality/authority having jurisdiction (AHJ). <S> Also, keep in mind the requirements in lots of places were different several years ago. <S> Some places vinyl siding did not require a wrb below it. <S> However, the current best practices are that you generally need a vapour barrier , air barrier , insulation , weather resistive barrier (wrb), and cladding (and ideally a rainscreen) in your wall system. <S> The vinyl siding is the cladding, underneath that you would want a wrb like tyvek (+ flashing). <S> From vinylsiding.org: Weather Resistant Barrier Vinyl siding has always been designed as an exterior cladding, not a weather resistant barrier . <S> Because of its design and application, it provides a supplemental rain screen that enhances the weather resistant barrier system by reducing the amount of water that reaches the underlying weather resistant barrier. <S> What Is a Weather Resistant Barrier System? <S> It is a system that includes water shedding materials and water diversion materials. <S> Weather resistant barrier systems commonly consist of a combination of exterior cladding, flashed wall openings and penetrations, weather resistant barrier material, and sheathing. <S> Effective weather resistant barrier systems will shed the water initially, control moisture flow by capillary and diffusion action, and minimize absorption into the wall structure. <S> The level of weather resistance required is determined by the applicable building code and structure Best Practice: To achieve designed performance, vinyl siding must be installed over a weather resistant barrier system that includes a continuous weather resistant material and properly integrated flashing around all penetrations and where vinyl siding interfaces with other building products such as brick, stone, or stucco. <S> Refer to the manufacturer’s installation manual for specific product applications and recommendations. <S> Whichever product(s) you decide to use as part of a weather resistant barrier system, be certain the materials meet the applicable code by contacting the manufacturer of the weather resistant barrier material(s). <S> Always consult the applicable building code for minimum weather barrier requirements in your area. <S> Keep in mind that additional measures may provide better protection against water intrusion than the minimum requirements of the building code. <S> http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-001-the-perfect-wall <S> http://www.vinylsiding.org/professional/resources/installation/ <A> Depending on the code in your jurisiction, the answer is most likely yes. <S> Around here, the code is based on Uniform Building Code (UBC) Sec. <S> 1708.(a) <S> : <S> All weather-exposed surfaces shall have a weather-resistive barrier to protect the interior wall covering. <S> ... <S> and... ...exterior openings exposed to weather be flashed in such a manner as to make them weatherproof. <S> Vinyl siding is by no means waterproof, or is it intended to be.
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You might want to call a local building inspector and ask what the code requirement in your area is. The solution to this problem would be to make sure the wall's WRB is properly integrated into the windows' nailing flanges. Vinyl siding is designed to allow the material underneath it to breathe; therefore, it is not a watertight covering.
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