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How to fix an electrical outlet where the threaded mounting hole is stripped? The threaded mounting hole in my electrical outlet is stripped; please refer to where the top flat-head screw is in the photo. As a result, the electrical outlet is not physically stable. How should I fix the problem without hiring an electrician? Thanks in advance. <Q> If the hole is slightly stripped, then slipping some type of material in the hole to take up space might do the trick. <S> A small sliver of card stock or paper or a very thin strand of copper wire (thin like a thread, not thick house wiring). <S> Superglue will probably work well and will set fast. <S> Even something as basic as wood glue would work to some degree, but that takes a while to dry. <S> Epoxy will be the strongest choice here. <S> The other glues would probably fail after a while or if you tried to plug in something with a very stiff cord. <S> Glue will make it impossible to remove the outlet, but since the box is broken already, anyone that would replace the outlet would just replace the box as well. <S> They are usually very easy to replace once you've done it a few times. <A> Given that the box is plastic, you have at least 3 options: Try a slightly larger screw. <S> Fill the mounting hole(s) in the box with epoxy, drill a new hole, and re-mount the outlet Replace the box. <S> If it were me, I would do number 3. <S> Edit 1 : <S> OP says the box is metal. <S> That kind of rules out option 2. <S> To replace the box, you have to: 1) Remove enough of the wall around the box so you can work. <S> Bigger is better than smaller 'cause you're going to have patch the wall anyway when your done. <S> 2) Disconnect and remove the outlet. <S> 3) <S> Loosen/remove any nuts that hold the wire clamps in place. <S> 4) Remove the box, pulling the existing cables out as you do so. <S> 5) Decide on the style box you want to use. <S> Probably want a new work type and just nail it to the existing stud, assuming you're removed enough sheetrock to do that. <S> 6) May want to pull the cable into the box before nailing the box, if you can do that. <S> 7) Wire up the new output and mount into the new box. <S> 8) <S> Oh yeah, last but not least - patch and repaint the wall! <A> This is one virtue of plastic boxes. <S> Instead of being a 1/16" thick tab, the screw actually goes into a fairly deep mounting hole . <S> Now, mind you, this advice is against Code since you're not supposed to modify UL-listed equipment. <S> But I really doubt an AHJ will have a problem with it. <S> Power off!! <S> ! <S> I would mix a quarter-size blob of epoxy, and fold in "fairing filler" (fine sawdust will do) until it barely flows. <S> Sort of like DIY bondo, but <S> a bit thinner - actual bondo is too chalky. <S> Use a screwdriver blade to trowel it in the hole, and an un-bent paper clip to ram it down. <S> Really pack it in. <S> It's OK to leave a slight hole in the middle; that'll actually help later. <S> After it dries, pre-drill a hole in it. <S> Make sure it's 6-32 thread ( <S> a bolt shear on a multi-strip tool can be used to measure threads). <S> Then google the correct drill size for tapping a hole that size; (#36 for a 6-32 thread) which you won't have, so round down (to 3/32"). <S> That machine screw is self-tapping, so it can deal with a slightly undersized hole. <A> I just had this and used a small plastic stucco anchor pressed into the box mounting hole <S> and it held the receptacle tight.
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If that doesn't work or if the hole is actually cracked wide open, you could use glue to hold the screw in place. Epoxy is another good choice, but it can be a bit messy. Obviously, make sure the electricity to the outlet is turned off before doing any work.
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Should I Add More Static Vents On My Roof I wanted to add insulation to an old ranch house. However, the insulation contractor wants to add static vents (2 turtles and 2 pipes). He says I don't have enough ventilation in my attic. The roof already has a ridge vent. It also has a gable vents but no soffit . The attic seems fine to me. The attic temperature is always within +/- 10 of the outside temperature. The house is in MA; so we have extreme weather. Even in the coldest winter, there has never been ice damns. There is no known mold issue. The shingles have aged well. Now, the roof is almost 25 years; I think it's time to start thinking about a new roof. Should I think about changing the roof or keep it as is? I'm a big believer in "If it's not broken." Was the insulation guy misinformed? <Q> You probably have enough flow through the ridge and gable vents. <S> If you're really concerned, soffit vents should be next. <S> But a lot of them I've seen do not have enough free space area, or net free area to be effective. <A> Adding openings below ridge vents short-circuits venting function. <S> There are several physical principles at play (convection and scavenging, put simply), and you degrade them by adding openings between the soffit and the ridge. <S> Even gable vents are often ill-advised with soffit and ridge vents. <S> They can hamper air movement at the outer edges of the attic. <S> Unless you have a hip roof with very little ridge, leave it alone. <S> They assume adequate soffit venting, but they're a good guide. <A> The code requires a certain amount of attic ventilation. <S> Attic Ventilation shall be “cross ventilation “ and shall be 1/150th the area that is to be vented. <S> (See ICC R806 Vents.) <S> However, there is one exception: <S> The attic ventilation can be reduced to 1/300th the area to be vented provided one of the following items are met: 1) a Class I or II vapor retarder is installed on the “warm-in-winter” side of the ceiling, or 2) not less than 40% and not more than 50% of the ventilation is located in the upper portion of the attic. <S> The upper portion is defined as: “Upper ventilation shall not be lower than 3’ below the ridge or highest point of the roof. <S> “ <S> (See ICC R806.1.2.) <S> Also, the Code says you shall maintain a 1” clearance between attic insulation and framing. <S> So, you can see there is clearly a benefit to having ridge vents, gable vents, etc. , <S> but in a proportion that allows COMPLETE CROSS-VENTILATION to the attic. <S> Soffit vents with ridge vents obviously meet that requirement best, but gable vents and “turtle vents” <S> (as you call them) are also effective. <S> So, if you have a 2,000 square foot house, you’ll need 13.33 square feet of vents if about half is NOT located in the upper portion of your attic, <S> Or You’ll need 6.66 square feet of vents if between 40% and 50% of the vents are in the upper portion of your attic. <S> You can easily calculate the amount of ventilation on your roof, if you use about 2” wide per foot for ridge vents (about 0.15 square feet per linear foot) and about 1/3 square foot for each roof vent. <S> (The free area of vents are reduced due to insect screen, which is required in every vent. <S> However, this rule of thumb will give you a good idea of how much ventilation you have.)
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There are plenty of calculation tables to be found indicating the amount of venting you need for a given attic space. I would not anything more to the roof.
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Is it ok to run a 30A water heater circuit on #12 wire? I moved into a 50 year old home about 2 years ago and we’ve been using a (miraculously working) water heater from 1994. Yesterday, its life finally came to an end when I found it had sprung a leak in our laundry room. Since it’s a rental, we had a technician come to assess it and he’s going to bring us a new one later today. Since the house is pretty old, however, I checked our circuit today and found something (maybe?) troubling. We’re still using the old fuse boxes from the sixties and while our current water heater has its own 30amp circuit, the wire that runs to the unit is 12 gauge, which I’ve read is a no no. Our current heater is 40 gallons and 3000 watts with a max amp of 18.75, so it’s probably never maxed out the load, but I’m concerned that a new one might. When I mentioned it to the technician, he waved off my concern and said the new units run at a lower max amp than this and 12 gauge would be totally fine. He’s obviously more experienced than I am so I have no choice but to defer to the professional but I just figured I’d check here to ease my mind a little. Is the tech right or am I putting myself at risk by having a new unit put in? Thanks in advance for any help or advice! <Q> The installer's language sounds like the standard platitudes they give people to get them to drop the subject. <S> You can't put a 30A breaker on a 12 AWG feeder cable, except for certain very arcane motor applications where the data plates from the numbers support it. <S> There is a new type of water heater which is basically an electric motor. <S> This is a heat pump type water heater, which is now mandatory for large tanks above (55?) gallons, and optional at lower sizes. <S> But still, the installation must be done in accordance with the unit's instructions, NEC 110.3(b), and that definitely includes exact breaker size and minimum wire size. <S> By minimum, I mean if the book calls out 14 AWG, you're allowed to use the larger 12 AWG. <S> That's always OK. <S> I would share your concerns with the landlord. <S> If the old cable is readily accessible, it's not expensive to change it, and 30A / 10 AWG is the de facto standard for whole house water heaters. <S> However, expect backlash if you do. <S> The only thing that would give me pause is if this is an old FPE or Zinsco panel. <S> In that case, your option for a new breaker is a Connecticut, and they're even worse than the breakers which got these panels condemned in the first place. <S> If it's a Challenger panel, Challenger breakers are bad news, but the panel is fine, and Eaton BR/C breakers are actually listed for the panel. <A> NEC 240.4(D)(5) Limits #12 copper to a maximum circuit breaker size of 20 amps. <S> NEC 422.10/422.13 Requires <S> storage type water heater circuits be rated at 125%, so that breaker can only accept a water heater rated at a maximum of 16 amps. <S> Watts are calculated Volts x <S> Amps = Watts, so the maximum power water heater at 240 volts is 240V x <S> 16A = 3840 Watts. <S> The installation instructions will detail the specific requirements as the above code sections will require, I have never seen a water heater <S> that the instructions deviated from the code requirements. <A> You really need to tell us what water heater you have now and what it will be replaced with. <S> We can't really answer your questions without such data. <S> You indicate you have "3000 watts with a max amp of 18.75". <S> I don't get it. <S> Most water heaters run on 240V, 3KW would require 12.5A. 120V (if such exists) would require 25A. 18.75 is neither. <S> Most electric water heaters sold by Home Depot draw 4500W, this would require 18.75A which is a little marginal for a 12 gauge circuit. <S> There are a few rated at 3800W at 15.83A.
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Gas dryers take very little power, and will be happy as a clam on 12 AWG wire; however they are not eligible for the special motor rule, which means the breaker on 12 AWG wire must be 15A or 20A. So if that existing wire is used then the breaker needs to be changed. But if the unit calls out a 15A breaker, then you must use that even if you've upsized the wire to 500 kcmil. If the landlord is a jerk about it, call the AHJ (Authority Having Jurisdiction) and warn them of the improper installation. You can order one under that maximum like this one from Home Depot , but they don't carry them in stock.
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Can I reduce the current/power consumption of an electrical heater by adding a resistor? I have a 2000W, 240V electrical heating element that I need to move. Connecting it to where it needs to be makes it draw, together with 2 other elements, more current than the fuse will allow (16A). Is there a way for me to add a resistor somewhere such that the heating element will draw less current? Edit: The two other elements have a wattage of 1200W and 800W. The three elements are used to heat a large room. I don't mean to put two of these elements in series, just to reduce the heat produced by the 2000W element by making it consume less, if possible. Ideally, I'd like to cut the power of the 2000W element about by half. Yes, I could disconnect the small 800W element, but I like it, it's the nicer one and it's close to the couch :) <Q> We'll begin by working out the resistance of each of the elements. <S> V=I R and P= <S> V I, so P= <S> V^2/R and thus R= <S> V^2/ <S> P. <S> The 800W element is 72 ohms, the 1200W is 48 ohms, and the 2000W is 28.8 ohms. <S> First, to directly answer your question, could a resistor be added in series with that 2000W element to make it heat less? <S> Suppose we wanted to get 1500W from the combination of the element and the resistor. <S> We'd need the combined resistance to be 240^2/1500=38.4 ohms, and the 2000W element contributes 28.8 of this, so another 9.6 ohms are needed. <S> How much power would that new resistor need to safely dissipate? <S> Well, the 1500W power at 240V means a current of 1500/240=6.25 amps. <S> Then the power in that new 9.6 ohm resistor is I^2*R or 375W. <S> It's not impossible to find a resistor capable of handling that power, but it's not exactly easy either. <S> OK, what would happen if two of your heaters were wired in series? <S> Suppose we pick the 2000W and the 800W. The total resistance is 100.8 ohms and the power would be 571W. Added to the full-power 1200W unit, you'll have 1771W of heating. <S> If the 2000W and the 1200W are in series then it's 76.8 ohms and 750W, for a room total of 1550W. Finally, if the 2000W is allowed to run full power while the 800W and 1200W units are in series, they'll have a resistance of 120 ohms and power 480W. <S> The room total would be 2480W. One other option.. you could consider powering any of the heaters from 120V instead of 240V. <S> It'll deliver 1/4 of the nameplate power if you do that. <A> Get another 2000W unit. <S> Seriously. <S> Place it <S> where practicable and useful, and place <S> it in series with the existing 2000W unit. <S> Together they are now individually 500W units, and 1000W together. <S> I believe that's the number you wanted to hit. <S> I mention this because resistive heaters are naturally perfectly inexpensive. <S> Talking about for-permanent-installation baseboard heaters, here in the US a 2000W unit is a mere $50+tax. <S> So this is a very economical way to do what you want, assuming there is not some mad discrepancy between units. <S> The gory details <S> When doing series connections with commercial products, I prefer to match up same-size. <S> Now, if you want all the numbers, here they are. <S> Voltage Power Current Resistance Conductance E or V <S> P <S> I R G <S> 240 V 2000 <S> W <S> 8.33 <S> A 28.8 Ω .0347 <S> Siemens 240 V 1200 <S> W <S> 5.00 <S> A <S> 48.0 Ω .0208 <S> S <S> 240 V 800 <S> W <S> 3.33 <S> A <S> 72.0 <S> Ω .0139 <S> S <S> 240 V 1000 <S> W <S> 4.17 <S> A <S> 57.6 Ω .0694 <S> S 120 V 500 W 4.17 <S> A 28.8 Ω .0347 <S> S <S> 240 V 750 W 3.13 <S> A <S> 76.8 Ω .0130 <S> S <S> 240 V 3200 <S> W <S> 13.33 A 18.0 Ω .0556 <S> S practical circuit limit 240 V 3840 <S> W <S> 16.00 <S> A <S> 15.0 <S> Ω .0667 <S> S absolute circuit limit <S> When placing units in series, add resistances. <S> Your calculation for the 2000+1200W heater in series is correct: 28.8 + 48 ohms = 76.8 ohms giving 750W. <S> All three heaters together are 16.6 amps. <S> The change I suggest will drop this to 12.5 amps, giving 3000W of heat in the room. <S> This is within the 13.33A circuit limit after the 125% derate for heaters is being applied. <S> Your country may not require this derate, but apparently, your fuse does. <A> You can add a resistor, but please don't . <S> In the first place it wouldl have to be capable of handling a lot of voltage (without breakdown) and a lot of current (without melting). <S> If you put it in the wrong place in the circuit you'll create "floating" voltages: the heater is designed so one end of the element is at ground, as is the chassis and so on. <S> Further, if the heater has any controls on it, they will not "understand" that there's a resistor in series (whatever you do, don't go parallel!) <S> and trouble may ensue. <S> If you need all 3 heaters running simultaneously then you must run a new line, on a separate fuse / breaker to support the necessary peak current. <A> It depends on the circuit of the heater . <S> If it is without any fan , i.e. a silent one, a simple 10A-Diode (on a heatsink) in series with the heater will - as already mentioned in a comment - reduce the power by factor 2. <S> If there is a fan in the heater , this simple method, f.i. to insert a diode in the plug of the heater, must not be realised. <S> Instead, the diode must only be in the parallel current path of the heating element - again in series with this heating element. <S> In any case the diode must not change the current through the motor .In <S> that way the fan's current is neither reduced nor rectified - both could be harmful to the motor and/or unit (not running at all, sometimes stopping, running rough etc., dependent on the type of motor). <S> As a plus, the heat sink for the diode can be omitted if the diode is cooled by the fan. <S> A parallel bridging 10A-switch (short cutting the diode) may set the unit to the normal status as before. <S> That way, it can be switched to 2000W or 1000W just like most hairdryers reduce the power output by factor 2.
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It could be complicated if a part of the heating wire is used as resistor for the motor. Let's explore what can be done with series combinations.
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Mounting long pipe as curtain rod from ceiling between exposed beams. What are these hex bolt sleeves used for existing pipes / better alternative? I live in a loft space with exposed beams ~9ft apart and vaulted ceilings. I'm trying to cordon off part of the space with a divider curtain. I previously tried a tension rod which sagged too much due to the span length, so now I'm trying to figure out how to mount some sort of pipe between the beams that I can then put a curtain with 1.5" diameter grommets on. After many hours of combing the hardware store, I still can't find something that seems like it will solve my issue. Floor flanges for pipe that I can find all seem to be threaded, so even if I could cut a pipe to the exact length between the beams, I would be losing the threading and thus unable to attach them on one end. I can't find any other option that would allow me to just go straight across between the beams (I'm all ears if there is one as this seems the ideal way to do it!), so my other option would be the ceiling. From the ceiling I need to come down around 12-14 inches to clear an exposed sprinkler pipe. There are two issues I'm having here. While the thinner (~3") pieces of wood that run perpendicular to the beams might just barely be wide enough to attach a floor flange, two pieces of pipe and two elbows for a U shape, all except the very last one closest to the wall are at an angle due to the vaulted ceilings. Additionally, were I to go this route, I'm not sure what I need screw-wise to ensure the weight is accounted for. I used lag screws with a hex head for a projector mount once, but I'm not sure how long these ought to be and lag screws don't seem to be the correct width for the flange holes regardless. The other option that appears to have been used for the existing sprinkler pipe seems to be sinking some sort of hex shaped sleeve with a threaded inside into the wood (no idea what this is called). Into that sleeve a long bolt comes down and on the end is a clamp with short bolts on each side that allow the bottom to come off so the pipe can be sandwiched between that and the part attached the the bolt. This would probably work except that I can't figure out what any of these pieces are, especially the thing that goes into the wood. After stubbornly spending most of the day trying to accomplish what I initially thought would be a very straightforward task, I'm hoping someone can suggest a solution either by suggesting something I haven't thought of, or identifying the pieces I can't figure out since I'm presently pretty frustrated and stumped. Many thanks! <Q> That is called a rod coupling nut . <S> The part above it is a double ended wood screw threaded rod stud , or something like that <S> Or you can buy a vertical threaded rod hanger <A> The sleeve piece you asked about may be a threaded insert (photo from https://www.ezlok.com/threaded-inserts-for-wood ): <S> The "long bolt" is called threaded rod or all-thread. <S> As you'll see if you do an image search, there are a multitude of styles available. <S> I couldn't quite work out a mental image of the space you're working with -- <S> a sketch or photo would help. <S> In general, though, if your curtain rod is sagging then you need intermediate support, lighter curtains, narrower span, or a larger curtain rod. <S> Regarding the floor flanges: in many cases you'd have to thread the flange onto pipe first, then bolt the flange into place. <S> If you feel a need to choose bolts that don't fit through the holes, drill the holes to a larger size. <A> Try hooks on the angles of the vault. <S> Then you can hang rope/cable with only another hook or two to support the center. <S> If you are hanging curtains, place the hooks where two panels met. <S> Look for threaded bridle rings for the middle so you can fuss with it easier. <S> 2 inch Bridle Ring from ShowMeCables.com <A> From your description the sprinkler pipes are hung with rod hangers in the ceiling, and pipe hangers in the rod hangers. <S> That would work fine but you wouldn't be able to slide the curtain past the pipe hanger. <S> If you want to suspend the pipe from beam to beam, you could use EMT - thinwall metal electrical conduit, normally used for wiring, available at any home improvements store or electrical supply. <S> Trade size 1" EMT is about 1-3/8" outside diameter, so that ought to work. <S> It's sold in 10' lengths so it will span between your beams. <S> You can use EMT set screw connectors on the ends of your pipe EMT connectors are available and inexpensive anywhere conduit is sold. <S> These would give you the threads you want to go into the floor flanges. <S> The threads should mate up fine. <S> Easiest way would be to assemble everything before trimming, make sure it's all snug, and measure the overall length; <S> subtract the width between beams from the overall length, that's how much you have to cut off the EMT. <S> Remove one of the connectors, and trim the pipe by that result, reassemble, and hang it between the beams. <S> Another alternative, even cheaper and easier solution would be to use two EMT hangers at the ends of the conduit: You would cut the conduit to just a hair shorter than the distance between beams; screw the hangers into the wood ceiling right near the beams; and install the conduit in the hangers. <S> The hangers are about a buck so this would be a <-$10 and <-10 minute project, the best kind.
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The clamp piece for the pipe is called a pipe hanger. To minimize sag, you'd probably want to use the largest size that will fit your hardware. You just have to trim the EMT to the right length before assembling everything.
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Do I need to remove old adhesive residue before installing new self-adhesive flooring? I have an old peel and stick floor in my kitchen that's is getting replaced. I'm putting down a new peel and stick floor. I'm removing the old one because it's curling and lifting from age. The subfloor has the sticky residue in it. Do I need to remove the adhesive or can I lay the floor right on top? <Q> Check the "surface prep" instructions as it will likely instruct you to remove all previous residue, grease, dust, etc... <S> or else they won't warrant their product. <S> FYI, removing all of the residue is damn near impossible as you are finding out and if you lay down new peel-n-stick then take a wild guess at what will happen to your new flooring in a few years. <S> I would probably choose to lay down the thinnest underlayment I can find such as 1/4 inch common plywood so that the project doesn't go to sh1t after a few years. <A> You should clean the surface with an adhesive remover like Goof Off. <S> You can get it at many home stores. <S> As always, read and follow the directions. <S> Good luck. <A> I have put down peel n' stick flooring after removing an older peel n' stick floor. <S> You need to lay down a new 1/4" layer on top of the old floor. <S> Yes the new floor would stick to the older sub-floor/glue, however, you'll find edges and corners that just won't stay stuck down. <S> With a new 1/4" floor you'll set. <S> Just pull out the baseboard shoe moulding and reinstall when complete.
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In my experience, glues and adhesives don't stick well to old glues and adhesives or to the residue they leave. First off, check with the manufacturers of the tile you're putting down on surface preparation.
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Attaching small, nearly zero weight cable clips directly to drywall without anchors My project runs about 30ft of ethernet cable along garage (interior) walls. I have 5mm plastic R-Style clips and I need to put about 1 per foot (at least 30 clips). I'm looking for something that I can attach these neatly without having to drive in anchors on every stop or comply with stud positions in the cable run. Maybe a product or fastener I've never heard of that you all may know about. Alternatively, I'll just do my best to line them up with the studs or deal w/ anchors. Thanks for any ideas. <Q> Keep in mind what you're dealing with here. <S> Drywall is chalk between 2 pieces of paper . <S> Here, take a piece of chalkboard chalk. <S> Soak strips of newspaper in 50/50 elmers glue and water mix, and roll them around the chalk. <S> Let dry. <S> Congrats, you've made drywall . <S> However, fragile as it is, an ethernet cable is a trivial load. <S> It'll be fine. <S> Just so you know, the National Electrical Code does have a chapter on non-PoE Ethernet wiring, it's in chapter 8 ( <S> 800 et.seq. ) <S> And better, as Section 90.3 says, “Chapter 8 is not subject to the requirements of Chapter 1 through 7 except where the requirements are specifically referenced in Chapter 8.” <S> So there are several ordinary requirements you can ignore. <S> However, chapter 1-7 requirements which prohibit data cables still apply. <S> You cannot use mains wiring or conduit as a hanger to support data cabling. <S> You cannot run data cabling inside a box or conduit containing mains wiring. <S> Code requires mains wiring to be able to contain an arc-fire event where insulation melts; and if a mains wire melted into comms wires, obviously it would put mains voltage on equipment not rated for it, which would spread the hazard. <S> If you're doing PoE, depending on the load that may push you into Class 2 or Class 3 wiring methods, but that's beyond the scope of your question. <A> The Command brand of products includes small clips designed to hang wiring . <S> There are lots of imitator products that use the same approach. <S> They use the same flexible adhesive strip approach as larger Command hooks, which don't require drywall anchors, screws, or other fasteners. <S> They make several styles of these small hooks besides the one I've linked to, so you may want to shop around to find the right version for your needs. <S> You may find that you don't need one per foot, I've hung wiring with these clips with only one per every three or four feet. <A> Will it work with a Sheetrock <S> screw <S> yes it will Hold. <S> To make an almost invisible hanger look up “coologin” pro photo hooks or push pin hangers one add called the one pice a high heeled shoe style . <S> I recommend the coologin and allow our renters to use them I have seen where the college boys hung all the hard wire internet connections on these and when they left took it all down with no real damage to the Sheetrock or trim they did reshape the hooks to hold cable, you could see where the pushed them into the trim <S> but it was not obvious in the Sheetrock.
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I'm not sure what your plastic R style clips are, but this style of clip is designed to have the wiring hung directly from it and don't require any other clip for the wiring.
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(SOLVED) What is a whining, high pitch sound coming from my furnace when heat kicks in EDIT: SOLVED. IT WAS THE FLEX CONNECTOR. THANKS EVERYONE. My gas furnace makes a high-pitched whining sound when the burners turn on (when I can see fire). A repair man came and told me it may be that the “flex connector hose” that goes from the gas line to the furnace. He said the flex connector is 1/4 inch when the gas line is 1/2, creating a bottle neck, stifling the system from getting enough gas. Could that possibly lead to a high pitch noise that is always present when burners are on and on occasions can be heard anywhere in my small home? <Q> However, the repair man may have meant that the flex hose was undersized for the gas line inside the furnace, which would make more sense. <S> Expanding flow could certainly cause the noise, but to really figure out what's causing it <S> you'll need a mechanic's stethoscope . <S> They're pretty cheap, but you may even be able to get one as a loaner tool from an auto parts store. <A> I had the whistle in my last home ,, actually in my shop , the corrugated flex whistled when it was at full blast. <S> Last try for tonight connect or ? <S> Problems. <S> I upsized from 3/4 to 1” flex and the whistle was gone <S> , it’s the flow and the ripples that make the whistle, upsize the flex 1 size you double the area and noise <S> gone, ok last time . <S> ok this worked for me <S> it made a huge difference , after doing this my hunting <S> buddy said look at your elk call exactly the same blow two hard and the squeal scares them off, my shop heater was 125 or 25 <A> If you’re hearing the noise when the fan kicks on, it could be that too restrictive a filter is installed.
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It's unlikely that going from a larger pipe to a smaller pipe (which is essentially what the flex hose is) would cause that.
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Can I repair this corroded shutoff valve on my own? I just noticed that this valve is corroded and slowly leaking (arrows point to the leaks): I started looking online for information and found this page , which discusses different types of valve, but I can't really tell whether this is a compression shutoff valve (install with wrenches) or a copper sweat shutoff valve (solder into place). Which is it, and is this a repair that I can make myself, or should I bring in a professional? <Q> That's a soldered valve, with a drain cap (typical for things that you might drain for the winter after shutting them off, though not always employed that way.) <S> Replacement is not the only solution, and may not be the best option. <S> The packing nut leak (right side) might be as simple as using a pair of wrenches to slightly tighten the nut on the handle stem. <S> The wrench close to the valve body is just holding still so you don't twist the pipes while tightening the nut closer to the handle. <S> In more extreme cases you might need to repack it (shut off water, remove handle and nut, replace packing material.) <S> The drain cap (left side drip) may either need to be tightened slightly, or else shut off the valve, remove the cap, with a bucket to catch the water that drains out (if the valve was installed in the correct direction, you don't have to shut off the main supply) and replace the gasket in the cap, or get a new cap with gasket. <A> It is absoloutely possible to DIY plumbing in most cases, but it pays to take some time to fully understand the situation before you start. <S> The first thing I would do is evaluate the broader situation. <S> What does that valve feed? <S> where is it fed from? <S> Is there another shutoff valve upstream? <S> Does the upstream shutoff valve work? <S> Does the upstream shutoff valve require special tools to operate? <S> what else does the upstream shutoff valve shut off? <S> if push came to shove can you live without it for a few days? <S> Unfortunately your existing valve is soldered in, which makes replacing it non-trivial. <S> So I would probably start by investigating the repair options Ecnerwal has mentioned. <S> However, before I started I would want to have a plan in place for what I would do If things go wrong and I had to switch strategies from repair to replace. <S> My replacement strategy would probably involve cutting the valve out and fitting a new valve with compression fittings. <S> Unfortunately cutting the valve out will probably leave a gap too long to fit a new one, so it would probably be necessary to cut out a longer length of pipe and then fit a new section of pipe and a coupler. <S> Looking at your other posts it looks like you are in the USA, while I am in the UK. <S> So the exact products available may differ. <S> Depending on how much play is in the pipes it may be difficult to fit a regular coupler. <S> I'm not sure if similar products are available in the USA. <A> Which valve is this? <S> Hopefully it's not the main valve to your home. <S> Can I safely assume you wish to avoid a propane torch and solder? <S> Assuming that you can turn off the main water supply and assuming you never plan to actually use this valve <S> then I would highly recommend cutting out that section of pipe and replacing it with two SharkBite push-to-connect couplings and a short piece of copper. <S> Supplies needed: Pipe cutter - cut the copper pipe A bucket - to catch drained water <S> Reamer/deburr tool - remove sharp edges inside and outside the pipe <S> Emery cloth or 180 grit sandpaper - sand off any grime from the end of the pipe Short section of copper pipe (not sure if you currently have 1/2 inch or 3/4 <S> so you need to measure) <S> 2 SharkBite push-to-connect couplings: <S> half-inch or three-quarter depending on your pipe size SharkBite depth gauge - use this to mark how deep the copper needs to be inserted into the SharkBite coupling if you want to make sure you did it right. <S> This should take you no longer than 30 minutes from start to finish. <S> If you want a shutoff valve there then SharkBite makes shutoff ball valves as well. <S> You may need to cut out a larger section of pipe so that you can accommodate this pipe layout: original copper > coupling > short new copper > ball valve > original copper
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In the UK you get special "repair couplers" that are longer than a normal coupler and only have a depth stop at one end, so you can slide them onto one pipe and then back onto the other one.
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A 110V air purifier comes with a 100-240V adapter I have a 110V air purifier that comes with a 100-240V adapter. Can I still use the air purifier with power input 220-240V? Do I need a transformer or converter? Thank you. Edit: I can’t find the attachment option :(. This is what it’s written on the adapter 100-240V. 50/60Hz. 0.8A Output is 24V and 1A This is printed on the air purifier 110V/60Hz. Does that mean I can use the air purifier anywhere in the world since the power adapter is 100-240V? Auto-switching? <Q> If the device has a 100-240V adapter, it's a 100-240V device, not a 110V device. <S> Or more likely it's a (some lower DC voltage you have not looked at - should be printed on the adapter, usually in tiny faint type) device with an adapter that is 100-240V <S> So, you should not need anything more than a way to plug its adapter in to use with 240VAC <A> Yes. <S> A good example is laptop adapters. <S> The only tricky part is IF it will fit into the physical holes. <S> Then there are universal adapters as well. <A> Usually items marked 100-240v are autoswitching, they react to the voltage supplied within the range. <S> It is probably packaged as a 110v because that is the only cord it is intended to be packaged with. <S> If it is marked 110v and the plug configuration doesn't match a standard receptacle then it was packed in the wrong box.
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If it's rated as 100-240V, you can plug into either 110 sockets or 220 sockets.
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What's gentler on screw heads: a regular screwdriver/drill, or an impact? I'm going to be doing some screwing/unscrewing of screws that provide both a utilitarian and aesthetic function, so I'd like to protect the painted coating on the heads as best I can when I remove and re-insert them. These are Torx (T45) rather than Philips head, so fortunately the heads are less likely to strip or be damaged than they otherwise would be. But having never used an impact driver before, while also having stripped plenty of Philips screw-heads with regular screwdrivers in the past, I am wondering what the best option for this job would be. In short: in general, which is gentler on the coatings of screw-heads: regular screwdrivers, or impact drivers? (Impact drivers sometimes shearing off screw heads in the case of overtorqueing notwithstanding) Addendum (added from comments): I'm doing some automotive work on a new vehicle. The bumper has a bunch of T45 bolts on it that are removable to add / remove accessories, and I'd like to keep them in the best shape possible, both for aesthetics and to prevent rust. While I'm specifically asking this question for this project, knowing whether or not impact drivers make screw head stripping less likely will help me decide whether or not buying an impact driver is worth it for the few projects I do. The screws in question are actually just going through the sheet metal of the bumper and aren't structural - but yes, in fact the "regular screwdriver" I was originally planning on using actually will be a socket wrench with a T45 socket. <Q> That’s funny , sorry but force is needed to break the screw loose , an impact if at the wrong angle will cause problems as a hand held driver will. <S> If there is paint both will damage the paint. <S> Once the breaking force to remove the screw is achieved there is no real difference except the impact will be faster. <A> Given the addendums to your question culled from comments, I would recommend a T45 Torx socket coupled with a ³⁄₈ drive socket wrench. <S> You can use the heel of the palm of one hand to hold the socket firmly in place while applying rotation with the other hand. <S> If the female torx bolt heads have enough paint that a solid socket-to-bolt connection is compromised, use a soft or 'dead-blow' mallet to seat the male torx head into the female bolt head before attempting removal/reassembly; even taking the time to remove stripped paint accumulated in the bottom of the female torx. <S> A true and solid 'seat' between wrench and bolt is more important than preserving the original paint. <S> There are many 'touch up' products available; I've found the right shade of nail polish a cheap and widely available option. <S> With all that said, an impact gun would be overkill <S> unless it was in the order of an 18V ¼" drive model and even with that, the main issue becomes the paint that is clogging the female torx. <A> To answer the essence of the question (regarding which is gentler), undoubtedly the standard driver. <S> The reason is control . <S> You have no real control over how much torque is applied via an impact driver--it just does its thing. <S> With a standard driver you can both modulate the motor force (assuming a modern variable trigger) and set a clutch, if available. <S> Therefore you only apply the force necessary to do the job. <S> The key to either scenario is tool usage technique, through. <S> Straight-on alignment and adequate engagement pressure are critical, as is the condition of the driver bit. <S> Either tool will mangle screws with poor technique, and damage is more likely with worn bits. <A> Making sure the bit is properly engaged is the first step - square and fully seated. <S> Then a screwdriver with the relevant torque setting is usually sufficient - only resort to heavier tools when needed ie when theycare too tight or seized. <A> The Torx T45 drive is beefy enough that it's pretty safe unless the head of the screw is very very shallow, so you'll probably be fine any way you go. <S> That said, an impact driver is far less controllable than a drill / driver. <S> Once it starts hammering, the impact applies torque in bursts, not continuously. <S> It's harder to control the torque by partially pulling the trigger. <S> Most drills have a torque dial on them. <S> You can use this to make sure you don't overtorque things. <S> You can work your way up one or two clicks at a time if you want - you could tighten everything with the drill on a low setting to get them seated something like finger tight, then adjust the dial up a few clicks, re-tighten everything, and repeat until it's at the desired torque. <S> Of course the safest thing is to not use a power tool, drive them with a ratchet, short extension, and T45 socket. <A> I am going to heartily disagree with some of the other answers with an asterisk *. <S> Yes I agree you have more control with a standard drill. <S> Yes an impact drill does not allot you the ability to adjust torque. <S> I agree with the other sentiments on this - I am sure there is science and facts that back this up. <S> However asterisks alert (*)... <S> If I have a situation where my screw heads are getting damaged and the screws are getting in (so it isn't that the screws are "stuck). <S> Examples of these are binding cabinets together or the perfect example is putting in cement or hardibacker screws into wood framing. <S> If you can keep a 90 degree angle with your screw. <S> If you can apply a good deal of pressure for at least a couple seconds. <S> In fact if I am working on something this is the number one reason I go out to get a tool - my impact driver (losing screw heads). <S> Using an impact driver like this is an art. <S> You get your angles aligned, get your pressure on it, and give it a tap (varies by model and <S> some you give a half squeeze). <S> Rinse and repeat. <S> You might align yourself 3-4 times for a screw, but if it starts going in like butter you just let it do its thing. <S> Again I am not telling you to hammer the impact driver, if you don't have a good touch for it - <S> and it isn't rocket science - <S> then yes the impact driver will eat up a screw head. <S> The issue with regular drills is that when you slow them down and start applying a lot of pressure they stick while the motor is still trying to move. <S> Either you will keep applying pressure hard and slightly dial up the motor or you will end up losing pressure over time - and bam the same thing happens - <S> your bit slips on the screw head.
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But a t45 is large and if the bit is fully inserted and perpendicular there is really no difference as an impact only hits hard enough to get the screw moving. I will take an impact driver every single day.
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How can an outlet with only 2 wires (hot and neutral) be grounded? I live in a home that was built in the late 1930s with some old electrical wiring and some new wiring. As I was identifying which outlets and lights are controlled by which wires I discovered a brainteaser : A garage outlet that my outlet tester identified as properly wired and grounded: However, it only had 2 wires going into it: a red one and a white one: Furthermore, for some reason, the box that holds the outlet is attached to another box with thicker gauge wires that are black, red and white which are not connected anywhere. I suspect the other box with thicker (12AWG) wires used to have the outlet for a dryer, while the first outlet pictured used to power the washer (they have since been moved to another location). But my question remains -- how can my tester (which has been pretty good at showing missing ground in other outlets) be showing this outlet as ALL GOOD in terms of ground even though it only has 2 wires going in? P.S. Making sense of the source of these wires at the panel is not an option for me -- it's a mess. <Q> The conduit is the grounding path Note that the wiring in your case is run not using sheathed cables, but as individual wires inside a metallic conduit (aka the pipe-like stuff you see heading off to the left in your picture). <A> The weak link in the grounding may be the cover. <S> Your fully-raised cover only contacts the (grounded) box at the edges and through the screws. <S> A proper ground requires a cover with flattened corners , to make solid contact with the corners of the junction box. <S> The flat contact between the receptacle's strap and the cover completes the ground path. <A> I've come across a few boxes that were like this, have accidentally contacted live wires to them (with enough oomph behind the arc to weld it to the box) and I will say wire everything securely and insulate or trim down any exposed wire if you do any work in them. <S> In my experience, the discharge to the box didn't trip the breaker and it was blind luck that I jumped back fast enough to not eat a lethal dose of mains current. <S> e: Insulated tools!
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As a result, the conduit is a serviceable grounding path in its own right, connecting the receptacle grounds and boxes to the grounded panel enclosure without any need to run an extra ground wire through it.
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How can I extend a shower curtain to close a gap at the floor? My shower curtains fall a little bit too short (like 4cm / couple of inches) and in consequence there is a lot of splash on the floor on the other side of the curtains. Sometimes, it's really wet. I have to mention that I'm talking about a Finnish shower —I'm living in Finland — so there is not shower tray. It's just the bathroom floor leaning a little bit so the water goes to the sink on the floor. The curtains are held in place with a rod and of course the obvious solution would be lower the rod. However, we are renting and we've talked with the company owning the building and told us that there is no posible. I guess they don't want to make more holes in the wall. On the below image you can see the kind of hooks the curtains have. Wondering if anyone around here has a great solution for this problem or there is nothing I can do. Thanks! PS/ The ideal situation is to have the curtains at 1cm or 0.5cm so they are close enough, but they don't touch the floor. If the curtain is touching the floor, mold in the curtains it's going to develop sooner or later. <Q> I would buy a second set of those white plastic loops and drop the curtain down easily that way. <A> Get a second shower rod that's white and tension adjustable so no new holes. <S> Install it below the existing one and reverse the existing hoops so the round part has the rod passing through it and the small dip holds the curtain. <S> See example below. <A> Try to find longer/larger rings. <S> This may not be possible to get exactly the size you want, but it could get you closer. <S> You might also try using zip-ties as an adjustable "ring extension". <S> Move the curtain rod down. <S> Depending on how it is secured this may range from impossible to "needs paint work" or a more difficult patching job. <S> It doesn't look like the rod you have <S> is one of those pressure rods (that screw out and press against the walls). <S> *Bonus option:If you have a 3D printer, you could easily design curtain loops for whatever size you need.
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As far as I see it, you have 3 options: Buy a longer curtain, it may be too long, which is fine. You can bring this curtain to just about any seamstress and they will cut it down and hem the bottom for a "factory" look at whatever height you want.
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When should an asphalt shingle roof be replaced? My shingle roof is 21 years old. However, it still looks good. My roof has aged well. Should I play it safe and just arbitrarily replace the roof based on time? Or, is it safe to hold off a few more years? I live in Massachusetts (NOT on the coast) and I've heard estimations for asphalt shingle roofs to be around 20-25 years. <Q> Assuming a shingle roof. <S> When to replace: It is leaking and can't be easily repaired. <S> It looks bad. <S> You don't like the looks, or the city is threatening to fine you for code violations. <S> You want a better roof. <S> Better hurricane resistance in my case. <S> An unbiased expert says it should be replaced. <S> The climate affects the expected life--heat is hard on shingle roofs. <S> Are you comparing the lifespan to other shingle roofs in your area? <S> That is a better indication than opinions from people around the world. <A> I would suggest actively saving/setting aside money specifically to replace it, perhaps in 4 years if it appears to be in good shape now. <A> I would not proactively replace the roof. <A> As my long time (multiple home purchases and sells) realtor told me, if it's not leaking, why bother. <S> My situation was a ~20 year old shingle roof over my attached garage, but a newer roof on the main house. <S> It was great advice in my case, as a hailstorm came thru about a year later <S> and I got an entirely free new shingle roof from my insurance company. <A> I am in Southern Ontario, Canada. <S> Our weather is probably more severe than yours, so this may not apply to you. <S> Anyway, we can't normally expect to get the "rated" life out of an asphalt shingle roof. <S> A 25-year rated shingle will probably need replacing before it's 20 years old. <S> The things to look for are missing shingles, broken shingles (bits missing from the corners/edges), curling, and also if granules have worn off (the granules protect the underlying asphalt from the Sun; once they are gone, UV from the Sun will begin to break down the asphalt). <S> One risk you take with leaving it too long is the possibility of moisture damage to the roof decking. <S> Long before you see drips in your attic, water could already be getting under the shingles and rotting out the roof decking, or possibly other roof structure. <S> That can add to the eventual cost.
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25 years is a pretty typical rated life, and your costs for replacement go up a great deal if small leaks you don't notice inside the house cause the roof decking to rot before you replace the roof. If it looks in good shape (no missing or curled shingles), and there are no leaks, I would let it go.
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Make a hole deeper than the drill bit is long The longest drill bit I have is 23.62 inches and apparently the thickness of the concrete I need to penetrate is 27.5 inches. I don't wish to buy another drill bit, is there a smart solution? The hole is for a gas pipe to go through, so the diameter of the bit is ~1.5 inches. I am drilling into the foundation, other side ends with a thin layer of plaster. <Q> A 1.5" hole (38mm) in concrete is beyond any conventional drill. <S> You might get away drilling empty block, but not a foundation. <S> I'd suggest renting a big rotary hammer drill driver for this job. <S> Most rental places are happy to rent you a suitable bit for the task as well, on the basis if you didn't have the tool you're unlikely to have the proper sized cutter. <S> It might also be a coring hole saw instead of a masonry twist drill, potentially with a water feed for keeping the dust down. <S> The bigger ones come with a base that you bolt to the wall or floor to maintain tracking and not risk bending your tool's shaft. <S> Either way this is going to be a heavy tool to hold that is enormously loud, and will have high vibrations to the user and the structure into which you're drilling. <S> More info at https://www.instructables.com/community/How-to-drill-a-4-inch-hole-in-concrete/ <S> Also, consider that you risk running into reinforcing rod (rebar) in a foundation, so your cutter will have to deal with steel as well as concrete. <S> Once the hole is done, you will absolutely have to clear it of dust and then seal the fresh surface - cut steel will need rust protection and the concrete will need silicon of some sort. <S> Consider also what other concrete holes you might want to prepare while you have the drill in your hands. <S> There's no shame at all in getting a contractor to drill your hole too - they will have the gear and probably cost not a lot more than a rental. <A> If you are using a core bit with a shaft for which there's an extension, you'd probably have thought of that already. <S> As far as I know there's no extension available for SDS plus or SDS max shanks. <S> There are extensions for the "rope" threads and for the 5/8" and 7/8" threads on diamond core bits. <S> The John Henry method is to drill as far as you can, then smash around the hole with a ball peen hammer so you can put the chuck in the hole another 4", then drill the rest of the way through. <S> This comes out as pretty as it sounds. <S> Actually if you need another 4", you might need a chisel, or a chisel attachment on the rotary hammer to take out what you need to. <S> Before you start, check the chuck end of the drill and make sure you don't have to take out an excessive amount to get the drill in another 4", really depends on the shape of the drill. <S> If you are using a core bit with a pilot bit or pilot rod, another way to go is get a 3' long 1/4" bit and drill all the way through, then drill as far as you can from one side, then drill from the other. <S> The pilot hole will keep the core in line pretty well. <S> This doesn't always work as planned, sometimes it doesn't follow the pilot hole closely enough, but it usually does. <S> (The reason for this method is <S> a long 1/4" bit is a lot cheaper than a long 1-1/2" bit.) <A> I have extended drills for one-off jobs by soldering (or welding / brazing) <S> a piece of pipe (of a suitable diameter) to the end of the drill and putting an old drill into the other end of the pipe for the drive end. <S> Need to go slow as they tend not to be perfectly straight :) but have got the job done... <A> You could drill another hole from the other side. <S> It takes a bit of careful measurement to get the starting points lined up, and you have to make sure to keep the drill straight... <S> To make sure you're lined up, you could drill a small pilot hole with a drill bit slightly over 4" long. <S> If your pilot hole connects with the hole from the other side, you'll feel the resistance fall away <S> and you're good to go with the large drill bit. <S> If you're off, well, a small pilot hole is easier to fill than a large one. <A> For a hole that diameter in concrete <S> I'd strongly recommend a diamond core cutter. <S> If it's a one-off operation, you can hire one, or you may even find a tradesperson who specializes in drilling such holes for builders and DIYers, using the right tool. <S> Google is your friend. <S> This also makes both external faces neater (no "crater" around the pipe). <S> The technique will work with concrete. <S> It's just the amount of noise and vibration it will cause that makes me dislike the idea. <S> (Also the possibility of getting a broken wrist, if the drill snags on a steel rebar and the clutch is imperfect. <S> But I know a foundation is usually just poured concrete without reinforcement). <S> If your fat drill were almost long enough you could try drilling all the depth you can from the side where cosmetic appearance matters. <S> Then insert a mild steel rod to the full depth of the hole and whack it hard with a club hammer. <S> If you are lucky a chunk of masonry and plaster will fly off the other side. <S> But again, its more of a (somewhat bodgey) technique for brick or block walls.
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If it were brick or block, I'd look at buying a "longest" small diameter drill (cheaper) to drill a pilot hole, and then widen it with the fat drill from both ends meeting in the middle.
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Tap Oven Electricity for Outlet I just purchased a new house that has the oven in the island in the middle of the kitchen. Not the stove, just the oven. But there are no electrical outlets on the island. Can the oven electrical be tapped to supply power to an outlet or will I have to run a new electrical line to its own breaker? <Q> That is because gas is great for a cooktop but not as useful for an oven. <S> So typically a combination cooktop/oven will use gas but not when they are separate. <S> Electric oven typically means 30A or 40A dedicated 240V circuit. <S> Assuming that is the case, you can't add receptacles to the circuit because: The receptacles need to be on a 15A or 20A circuit. <S> A 30A or larger breaker is not allowed and is not safe. <S> However... <S> If the manufacturer's installation instructions require a dedicated circuit then technically code would require a dedicated circuit (because code says "do what the manufacturer says as long as it doesn't conflict with the code"). <S> But practically speaking, you are likely OK except beware - if you try to use a 1500W small appliance at the same time as your oven is the high-energy-usage part of a cycle, you risk tripping a breaker. <S> The whole situation is a bit strange though, as kitchens are normally (for a while now) supposed to have receptacles near all countertops for small appliances. <S> The island should be no exception. <S> If this is a truly new house then you may have recourse with the builder to meet code requirements. <S> But if it is just "new to you" then it is likely grandfathered in without the extra receptacles. <S> Three solutions: <S> Simplest, usually: Run a new 12 AWG cable for receptacles connected to a 20A breaker. <S> Much more expensive unless running a cable <S> = "tear up concrete": Connect the existing incoming power to a small subpanel and connect the oven (with appropriate size breakers) and new receptacles (20A) to the subpanel. <S> A hanging power pendant <A> The answer is yes. <S> The tap rules do allow this <S> and it is common in older homes to tap a duplex off the supply, <S> conduit from the tap to the outlet box is usually required and metal flex MC <S> /AC is normally used. <S> The 10 foot tap rule has always been used on every example of this that I have seen. <S> On both electric stove tops on top of the counter and single electric ovens below the counter. <S> Working in an area that for many years was almost exclusively electric this was quite common , maybe not as much today as “ranges” <S> that have both oven and stove tops are no longer hard wired <S> but I still see them. <S> The question since the 96 code change is the supply a 2 hot and ground or a 2 hot and neutral , it makes a difference, if 3 insulated conductors a grounding wire could be added and meet today’s code. <A> I really have to disagree for the following reason. <S> First the tap rule is found in Article 240 Which is for overcurrent protection. <S> More specifically 240.21(B) <S> "Feeder Conductors" (2) "Taps not over 25 ft long" which says you can only use the tap rule if it meets all 3 requirements. <S> Part 2 of that requirement states: <S> The tap conductors terminate in a single circuit breaker or a single set of fuses that limit the load to the ampacity of the tap conductors. <S> This device shall be permitted to supply number of additional overcurrent devices on its load side. <S> Article 100 <S> "Definitions" - define a feeder as circuit conductors between a power source (line side) and an overcurrent device (load side). <S> So to start, the tap rule can only be used as on a feeder 241.21(B). <S> Your better off following the Article 210 "Branch circuits" and the short version is; <S> You cannot run conductors any smaller than the rating of the overcurrent protection.
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What 240.21(B)(2)(2) is telling you is that, on the load side, you must have one breaker within 25' of the tap to protect your range and one breaker to protect your receptacle. Assuming we are talking about the US/Canada, I'll make some basic assumptions: Not the stove just the oven would almost always mean electric oven. It turns out that in theory it is OK to tap up to 10' away using the usual 12 AWG wire to 20A receptacles. Whether this is technically/code-compliant possible will depend on a number of specific details.
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how to take the sheen off baked high gloss surface I intend to paint my kitchen doors as they have faded into an almost cream colour I want to bring them back to brilliant white, however, as the kitchen doors are profiled sanding is not an option, and as the surfaces rejects any attempts of over painting, hence removing the sheen in order to create a surface key is imperative <Q> One thing I use to prep surfaces is scotch bright pads. <S> The green ones are what I use most often they conform to shapes and really take the sheen or gloss out with very little effort. <S> They have red that is Heavier or more corse or white that is finer but green works quite well for irregular surfaces. <A> You can also use a paint remover. <S> There are many on the market that are a gel and water based and can be used indoors. <S> One that come to mind is Citristrip, see below. <S> It can be applied and after a short time can be wiped or lightly scraped off to removing the old surface, eliminating the sanding you so dread. <A> They make products called liquid sandpaper or deglosser. <S> These products will prep glossy surfaces so new paint will stick to it. <S> It works on many coatings i.e. Enamel, latex, polyurethane etc... <S> They work fairly good. <S> You could also use a q-tip or small brush to get into tight areas or corners. <A> Sanding is the best option, just takes time, patience and elbow grease.
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You would rub onto the surface of the item you want to take the sheen off of. If it's wood, sanding is always an option if you want professional results.
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How to use a 100 amp sub panel for a 50 amp input I'm building a shed I want to add power to. To get power I'm planning to use the power that is going to my hot tub (50 amp). The hot tub has a 50 amp breaker from the main to a 50 amp breaker box that is mounted on the side of my house. I plan to disconnect the hot tub and run the wire to my shed from this breaker box. I can't find a 50 amp sub panel, but I can find 100 amp boxes online that are fairly cheap. I'm curious how I can wire this box to use the 50 amps that will be coming in? <Q> Just wire it up. <S> Points to note: <S> The cable to your hot tub will be rated for 50A (not 100A); therefore you must not upgrade the breaker in your main panel to 100A. <S> It would be sensible to add a note near the main panel that the cable is only rated for 50A, so not to change the breaker ( <S> so you, or a future purchaser, remembers in a year's time). <S> If you connect four 20A 240V devices to the sub-panel in your shed (and run them all at once) the sub-panel will be entirely happy with this, but the 50A breaker in the main panel won't be and it will throw - so don't do that then. <S> PS. <S> This is not directly related to your question, but still. <S> 50A is a substantial current. <A> It's a rating. <S> Like tires. <S> Go shopping for tires. <S> Almost any tire these days is rated 112 mph. <S> *You're allowed to drive 65 on those, it is saying don't exceed 112 mph <S> *. <S> Do not exceed 100A. <S> However, you certainly should exceed your feed-breaker size of 50A. <S> Even if 50A panels existed, they would be very small in terms of numbers of spaces . <S> The most important job of a subpanel is to not run out of spaces . <S> So you should be buying a subpanel with way more spaces than you think you're going to need, to assure you never run out. <S> (which won't be hard). <S> What about sizing the main breaker? <S> Yes, that means you may have a 150A breaker in the subpanel being fed by a 50A breaker. <S> That is fine . <S> The breaker isn't there to be a breaker. <S> Feel free to price separate disconnect switches if you want to, but you'll find "just getting a panel with a main breaker" is the cheapest way to get a disconnect switch. <S> "But I'm clever. <S> I want the breakers to be the same size so the breaker in the shed will trip first, and save me a long walk to the house". <S> Sorry, breakers do not work that way. <S> Even if you found a way to match breaker sizes, realistically the feeder breaker in the house will trip most of the time. <S> Especially when it is raining! <A> You can utilize the 50 Amp breaker in the hot tub panel as a connection point for the new wire run or just use that junction as a splice point. <S> If you do that, I don't think you can double lug the wires and would have to use split-bolt connectors (buy a lot of electrical tape) or Polaris connectors. <S> Wire nuts would not be a good idea. <A> 50A is not a standard panel size, you will find a few more options if you search 60A. <S> You can use a panel rated for higher than the feeder, the panel rating is the maximum current allowed. <S> You may wan't to consider checking your wire size, the instructions for the last hot tub I installed specified #6 wire, most of the time #6 can be protected at 60A. (Actually confirming proper breaker for the feeder size is a good idea anyway.)
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Using a larger sub panel will not be a problem but the breaker must stay a 50 AMP in the main panel. So size your panel for the spaces and make sure its busing is at least 50A Do remember to torque the connection to the panel correctly. There is no problem using a sub panel that can take more current than you will ever feed it. It's the same with subpanels: The "100A" is a maximum rating . It's only there to be a disconnect switch , to satisfy a Code requirement for a disconnect switch in an outbuilding.
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Is an ungrounded outlet for a gas stove a safety hazard? House was built in the 50's and there is a 3 prong outlet but no ground wire. I've tested it best of my knowledge, the metal casing is not ground either. 2 black and white wires. Basically, am I going to kill myself cooking dinner one day? Model# NX58H5600SS <Q> Your best bet, from a safety perspective, is to provide GFCI protection to the circuit. <S> You then label the 3-prong outlet "GFCI Protected - No Equipment Ground". <S> That will bring it up to code and render it safe. <S> The GFCI device can be at the breaker or anywhere appropriate to protect as much of the circuit as you want to protect. <A> Since you have the fridge on that outlet I would pull a grounding wire in since you are concerned. <S> The ground can come from another circuit if you possibly have one in the area or back to the service panel. <A> Well, somebody cooked Dinner for 70 years. <S> The chance that you die from an not present ground wire is pretty slim. <S> But of course it would be saver in case of a short to ground and an installed gfi outlet. <S> Nothing I would have sleepless nights over <S> but if you upgrade the kitchen it would be in my list.
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As long as the ground comes from the same service panel your outlet is connected to this is legal and you would have a proper 3 wire outlet without the problematic tripping of a GFCI. Code recently changed and now allows a separate wire to be brought in as long as it is from the same service panel that the circuit originated in.
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How can I get this asbestos sheet removed? So I have just learned that the sheet embedded in the wall (see picture) is asbestos. We're going to get a new room made adjacent to this wall, and I need to get this sheet removed? Unfortunately, there is no regulation related to asbestos in my country, and most people don't realize just how dangerous it can be. But I'm afraid that if I ask the contractor to get it removed, they'll break it, which will lead to spreading very harmful particles everywhere. What should I do? <Q> I have looked and never been able to find any data that indicates there is any measurable risk from a single, limited, isolated exposure to asbestos like this job would entail. <S> Here is what I would do. <S> I'd put on a dust mask, cut it off with a reciprocating saw, maybe with a shop vac on it to pick up the worst of the sawdust. <S> I'd put the cutoff in a garbage bag, empty the shop vacuum into the garbage bag, and tie the garbage bag shut while wearing the mask. <S> I might hose down the area. <S> Obviously you would want to control the area to some extent <S> so there's no kids, neighbors, etc. <S> watching and being exposed to the dust. <S> The hazard with asbestos comes when it's in the air <S> and you breath it <S> and you're exposed to it repeatedly over time. <S> The serious hazard is years of exposure, for example pipefitters and insulators that handled asbestos for years without protection had higher incidences of lung cancer, especially in smokers. <S> It's not a direct analogy <S> but it's like smoking: <S> it's dangerous <S> but you are very very unlikely to get lung cancer from a smoking a single cigarette. <S> (Fortunately asbestos is not addictive so you don't have to worry that this one job will lead to two packs of asbestos a day for the next 20 years.) <A> Asbestos can cause problems but they are actually quite rare. <S> Back in the 70’s and prior decades many building products had asbestos, popcorn ceilings, floor tile, siding, insulation, then things like brake shoes , to tell the truth after 40+ years in and around construction I have never known anyone that was affected , for many years I did demos without even a dust mask, people in the asbestos industry had life long jobs <S> yes a few were affected , but , many thousands were not. <S> The issue is it can be lethal , so strict rules were enacted , heck <S> my little brother is having a swimming pool installed and they had to monitor for asbestos in the earth. <S> I can’t even count the numbers of trenches I dug by hand without a dust mask and even more with a back hoe. <S> I now use dust masks and normally wear a tyvek suit to be safe, wet the material down with water to try and reduce the chance of creating airborne fibers. <S> It sounds like your country it may be able to be put directly in the garbage like we did for many years. <S> I think some go overboard <S> but it can be lethal so risk mitigation steps need to be taken. <S> You may find other building materials also contain asbestos so wearing a dust mask while the work is being done is a good idea and frequent wipe down of countertops with a wet cloth. <A> Removing the asbestos isn't your only option. <S> If there's no safe, practical way to remove it, you can also encapsulate it. <S> This entails applying some sort of sealant to the outside of the asbestos material that will bind the fibers together and prevent them from crumbling or flaking. <S> Since your ceiling will be lower than the asbestos sheet and since the sheet appears to be passing through a load-bearing wall, it may make more sense to leave it where it is and encapsulate it instead. <A> Disclaimer : I may be over-cautious about it. <S> There was asbestos panic in my country when I was growing up. <S> Carefully, preferably using qualified contractor even if you would have to pay someone from further away. <S> I mean, yes, any time when you want to ask "should I get rid of asbestos in or near my living area? <S> " <S> the answer is yes you should. <S> Asbestos being cut by someone who does not know how to do it releases a lot <S> o them in a short time, <S> and they'll be everywhere in and near your home. <S> It might be expensive to hire reputable contractor, but it is the only way to be safe. <S> From my experience, contractors that are skilled in asbestos removal make a pretty big point out of it, and you can easily see it in their web page etc. <S> Your mileage may vary, of course. <S> And if you'll see them cutting or breaking it without any protection (water, plastic foil, masks on faces etc) definitely tell them to stop and kick them out of your property. <S> If you do not have any contractor trained to work with asbestos in your area, or willing to go to our area, the safest way is just let it be until you find one. <S> I've seen oil-based paint and tar used for this purpose, but I am not a certified pro in this matter so you are doing it or not doing it on your own responsibility. <S> If you will, buy really good dust mask, one that'll protect your lungs and eyes, and do not touch it more than you have to. <S> Last but <S> not least, there are good guides / codes on asbestos removal on government sites around the world. <S> Easiest to read seems to be Australian (and specifically for small jobs here ). <S> It boils down to: Everything should be dripping wet Wrap everything in thick plastic foil <S> Protect yourself <S> Do not touch if you can avoid it <S> I wouldn't dare to do it, honestly, but if I had to, I would read their guide and linked document before attempting it.
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Asbestos just being there releases carcinogenic particles relatively slowly. Painting it with something that would prevent dust will help. In my area it can be put in plastic bags and taken to a dump (not a transfer station). You should not do it yourself.
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Is it ok to use joint compound for a thin or skim coat on new drywall? Is it ok to use ready mix joint compound on new drywall as a thin coat or skim coat ( if that means the same thing ). I just want to paint the walls or what is best to seal drywall for just painting. I’m just a DIY. Thanks <Q> .vs. <S> paper. <A> Joint compound will not seal drywall, which is what the likes of PVA primer does. <S> It's essentially as porous and absorbent as the drywall itself, meaning you'll need two coats of paint instead of one. <S> If you need to level imperfections or get a Level 5 finish <S> , sure. <S> It's not a substitute for primer. <S> Purpose-formulated primer is quite cheap and will be much easier to work with than drywall mud. <A> Joint compound is not primer! <S> I'm unclear what you're asking (and maybe you're unclear what you're after). <S> For a joint compound to be used to level the surface <S> , essentially like bondo, sure, that's fine. <S> It's a perfectly viable sanding filler. <S> But to prime the surface in preparation for topcoat? <S> No way. <S> You wouldn't prime your car with bondo. <S> But yeah, once the surface is level, hit it with a primer then topcoat. <S> You'll do fine. <S> But it's just DIY <S> Either do a rubbish job, or do a good job. <S> Your call DIY isn't necessarily about shortcutting/doing shabby work. <S> It's often just about saving money on labor, in which case you want to do the job tip-top to the limit of your abilities. <A> Adding more compound - especially the ready mix which is too thick and dry - is basically ruining the flat look of your walls. <S> You should only be using it to fill divots or major flaws. <S> There are professionals that skim coat entire walls to have a truly "flat" wall. <S> These are very high end services that most professional drywallers can't provide. <S> What will happen if you try to skim coat your wall? <S> To make things not have an edge, you will probably sand all of the skim coat off. <S> or If you lightly sand it you will notice ridges and edges even after painting. <S> What should you do? <S> Put on two very thick layers of PVC primer. <S> If you are finishing with an oil based paint your second coat should be a primer made for oil based paints. <S> So to answer your question... <S> Yes skim coating is OK if you want to spend an ornate amount of time doing it, you have practices the technique many times and you have the innate artistic ability to do the job... along with the tools. <S> Here is an example of a Level 5 grade install and how this guy goes about it (uses a roller and really thin joint compound - not ready mix).
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Yes, it's fine to use a skim coat as a paint base, and it reduces the contrast between white dry compound and gray paper under the paint, as well as removing any difference in how the paint takes on compound In general if your drywalled walls have been finished - means the gaps are filled and sanded then no you should not be adding extra joint compound as a DIYer.
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How do I move my sheave pulley vertical with the bottom door bracket? I just recently purchased a house and the garage doors need some work (Replace wheels with silicon for less noise, etc..). While I'm at it I also want to change the stationary sheave pully so that the wire connecting the door to the pully is no longer in front of the door and I can move the sensors to be on the track itself instead of attached to the floor with 2x4s. Do I need a new track piece, track flag bracket, or both in order to fix this? If I need a new track piece, can I find it at my local hardware store? <Q> Just screw that two-by vertically on the wall, or mount the bracket directly to the wall. <S> That's why that bracket is adjustable, so that you can extend it out in front of the track so it can see the corresponding sensor. <S> Like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fd25t6i72XU <A> I'm no garage door expert, but it looks like it might be technically possible to convert from your linear spring arrangement to a torsion spring setup. <S> The torsion sprung systems usually place the cable between the track and the wall, so it's a very compact way of arranging the parts. <S> A different style of bottom track roller bracket would be required, though, and there would be a mechanical conflict with the top-most roller bracket too. <S> It might be possible to arrange a torsion system so that the cable follows a path similar to what it does now. <S> I couldn't say whether it's economically feasible to do so. <S> Also, those parts tend not to be offered via ordinary retail outlets; you'd have to find an overhead door parts supplier who sells to the public <S> and you'd have to educate yourself as to safe practices when working with torsion <S> sprung doors. <S> Unfortunately, unless that bottom roller bracket is changed, you won't be able to clip the sensor to the track. <S> A more creative arrangement for the door sensors might be a better solution. <S> A blog at ProtectAmerica and the FAQ at Veteran Garage Door <S> both state that safety sensors should be placed "not more than 6 inches above the floor. <S> " <S> Conceivably, then, it might be possible to position your sensors so that they pass light under the cable-mounting arm of the bottom roller bracket. <S> This would allow the sensors to be placed nearer to the track and wall. <S> Whether they're actually attached to the concrete, the track, or the wall is a matter of preference. <S> A rich source of parts and inspiration for this is the wood construction connectors aisle in a home/construction store. <S> Here is a top-flange joist hanger made by Simpson: <S> Rotate it 90 degrees and screw those top flanges to the wall so that the bracket projects out from the wall. <S> Drill a hole in the bottom of the bracket (the area where a joist would rest if the hanger were used for its intended purpose) and mount the safety sensor there. <S> Other materials to consider for building your custom solution are slotted angle and strut channel ("uni-strut", "super strut", etc): <A> The pulley you wish to move is there for a purpose, to allow the door to open as high as possible for THAT track. <S> If you change it, it will not work as well. <S> You can get rollers, pulleys and tension springs at some hardware stores, but I have never seen track to be sold separately. <S> For what its worth, the sensor does not have to be mounted on a 2X4 on the floor. <S> I also have never seen one mounted on the door track. <S> There are wall brackets available that may be found. <S> If not a wall bracket, a floor mount is available that does not need to use a block of wood for mounting. <S> Even the one in the picture looks like it could be mounted on either surface, it only needs someone with enough ambition to do so. <S> That is as long as it can be placed where an object is not blocking it all the time. <S> Maybe that's what the issue was???
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Consider fabricating your own mounting brackets for the sensors.
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Walls out of square, how to align base cabinet? Hello all. In the process of remodeling a kitchen, and the corner where this standalone base cabinet is going is quite out of square, to the tune of about 1/2" gap at each end of the cabinet. Next to it will be a fridge. We're doing granite or solid surface countertop with a 3x6 subway tile backsplash. Countertop/cabinet people, how should I square this cabinet up? Flush to the back wall, flush to the side wall, or split the difference? My first instinct is to go flush to the side because it'll look better straight-on and the fridge will hide the 1" side gap and the countertop guy will just scribe the back of the countertop to the back wall. But would that throw off the fridge? I dunno. How would you do it? <Q> Assuming you're installing cabinetry along the entire wall, I'd do this: <S> Find the point on the back wall that sticks out the most. <S> Measure out one cabinet depth and mark a line over the entire length of the floor. <S> (Use a grout line as a reference-- <S> even if your tiles are off-square, these are the lines your eyes will pick up as square.) <S> Install cabinets to this line, use shims to fill in the anchor points and the sides if necessary. <S> Tell the granite cutters that things aren't square, and let them deal with it. <S> I realize that this particular installation has a standalone on the end. <S> This really doesn't change anything -- You want the fronts of all your cabinets to be on the same line as you'll pick up the tiniest of inconsistencies, even with the fridge breaking the line. <A> I'd push the cab against the back wall and scribe a filler strip (somewhere between 1/2" and 1-1/2") on the right side. <S> But realistically, if the counter edge on the left (beside the fridge) is perpendicular to the wall, nobody but you would ever notice. <A> If you put the cabinet tight to the right wall and then install the fridge next to it the cabinet will look out of square as it will be 90 degrees from the right wall. <S> A gap will form between the right cabinet and the fridge or the fridge will be skewed. <S> So as the cabinets run looking at your picture from right wall to left the gap in the back would have to get larger to keep everything looking straight. <S> Imagine your cabinets as one large piece of furniture in the front; solid, ridged and all parallel, that is the way they must appear when finished. <S> If that first cabinet is off the end of you furniture (left side of kitchen) will be sticking out with a large gap on the left back wall. <S> Get a couple packs of shims they are angled and fit together to adjust for these issues, you'll find them in the door section of the home improvement store. <S> You will then be able to adjust each cabinet to fit perfectly and the end result will look professional. <S> Go off the back wall.
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Get a line on the back wall and follow it to the face of all cabinets to remain true or your fridge would have to sit at an angle to hid the gap on the right.
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Do powerline adaptors need to be plugged into outlets that are on the same leg I used a powerline adapter like this to connect my security camera receiver to my router. This allows me to access the cameras from my cell phone which was working but now it doesn't. There's two things that may have caused this. 1. The receiver was unplugged for a while which may have affected the settings on the receiver. 2. The other powerline adapter was moved to a different circuit. The settings on the security camera receiver look fine although it's possible the ip address changed and the phone may need to be re-connected. I know the easy answer here is just plug the powerline adapter back into the old outlet. Unfortunately that outlet was removed because it wasn't code compliant. Edit: Photos of the panel showing the which circuits the powerline adapters were/are now plugged in to. <Q> I did the unthinkable, and started to read <S> the manual for the product you linked, and in the troubleshooting section there is a theme: <S> Try another wall socket and make sure all powerline devices are on the same electrical circuit. <S> If you search the PDF for "circuit" you find this phrase several times. <S> I didn't find where the manual lists using the same phase or circuit as a hard requirement, but you can infer from the troubleshooting that they fully expect you to use the same circuit, which I think is a "dumbed down" way of saying it should be the same phase/leg. <S> I also found this in their FAQ section: <S> Q3.5 <S> : Can Powerline adapters work if they are separated by different electric circuits? <S> A: <S> No. <S> If they can pair in the same room, but the powerline LED turns off when you move one powerline device to another area, this usually means they are plugged into separate electrical circuits, preventing them from communicating. <S> Please try different locations. <S> I think they are being a little concervative, because I do have powerline adapters on different breakers, and they work reliably. <S> Netgear is more optimistic, which muddies the waters a bit because most of these devices are based on the same protocols and theorys: <S> Can powerline be used in homes across multiple phases? <S> Finally the Homeplug (standard the devices use) <S> wiki page states: <S> One of the greatest technical challenges was finding a way to reduce sensitivity to the electrical noise present on power lines. <S> HomePlug solved this problem by increasing the communication carrier frequencies so that the signal is conveyed by the neutral conductor, which is common to all phases. <A> Cross-phase communication for power line carrier products can be a challenging problem. <S> (see a white paper from Intellon, a manufacturer of PLC devices, there .) <S> You may be able to improve the coupling between phases, at least for a short time, by turning on an electric-powered heating appliance such as a range, oven, clothes dryer, or water heater. <S> If connectivity improves while one of those appliances is heating, that's an indicator that the two modules are not on the same phase. <S> If you conclude that the devices are not working well because they're on different phases, there are three things you could do to improve the situation: <S> The reason why a high-power heating appliance may temporarily improve the connection is that such an appliance can be thought of as basically a low-value resistor. <S> The high frequency signals used in PLC can travel from the transmitting device through wiring to the breaker panel, out to the heating appliance on one phase, through heating element, return on the other phase, and from there out to the receiving device on that second phase. <S> This path can have lower loss than other paths that might exist between the phases. <S> As was mentioned in comments, this is most commonly applicable in the US and other countries where multi-pole service is found in a residence. <S> However, it's equally applicable anywhere multi-pole or multi-phase service is found: find some heating appliance that is powered between the poles/phases and turn it on to see whether it improves the PLC communication. <A> American residential power is usually two split-phase legs off a power pole mounted transformer with a center-tapped secondary winding. <S> The center tap is connected to the house neutral. <S> You'll get the best connection if your two powerline adapters are on the same circuit, but you have a good chance of them working even if they are not on the same circuit as long as they are on the same leg. <S> And since there are only two legs in a normal house, you can probably find a workable outlet with a little bit of trial and error. <S> Even better if you understand how breaker panels work, you can then try only outlets that you know are on the same leg. <S> What is unlikely to work is to have powerline adapters on different legs. <S> This requires the signal to go through the power pole transformer and such transformers are not able to carry the frequency band required. <A> There are devices designed to allow this to work, and to not endanger you while you install it. <S> (This one is just the first I found, there are probably cheaper ones.) <S> In the early days of powerline communications, they just suggested installing a small capacitor joining the two sides of the circuit. <S> It must be able to take 240V, and to be small enough to pass the frequencies involved. <S> Installing it is dangerous unless you are very careful.
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Relocate one of the devices in hopes of randomly choosing an outlet on the same phase as the other device Re-arrange circuit locations in the breaker panel so that the chosen outlets are on the same phase Install a cross-phase coupling device (if you can find one). In conclusion, the answer appears to be a big "Maybe". Yes, but you will either suffer a noticeable loss in performance, or if the signal is too low the units will not be able to communicate.
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Can I improve the water pressure by changing from 1/2" to 3/4" pipe? My water heater is 40' from my shower. Would replacing 1/2" pipe to 3/4" help increase my water pressure? <Q> Do you have a pressure reducing shower head? <S> my impression is the effect wouldn't be large. <S> How much more pressure are you hoping to get? <S> Do you know the water pressure for your house? <S> Are your pipes currently copper or pex? <S> Switching to pex and avoiding 90s would probably do more to reduce friction than simply upsizing your pipe. <A> Technically speaking, the pressure is not related to pipe size. <S> The flow is most certainly related to pipe size. <S> Going from 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipe is a huge flow increase. <S> But most showers with one or even two heads won't tax the supply from one properly functioning 1/2 inch pipe. <S> If you have three or more shower heads running, the flow may reduce some. <S> I'm betting that changing pipe won't do anything. <S> You either have poor flow to the heater, or the heater is mineralized enough that the flow is obstructed. <S> If you have hard water and a 30 year old heater, I'm betting it's time for a new heater. <S> I'd also bet that it seems to run out of hot water too soon and makes popping or boiling noises when the water is heating. <A> As others have said, yes you will get a slightly improved flow with the larger pipe. <S> If you are looking for a good but inexpensive shower head buy a Delta model 52650-PK for about $15.00 from Home Depot, Lowes, Or almost any Plumbing supply store. <S> I tried 1 and liked it so much I bought 3 more. <S> I have 3 showers and have an extra for a spare. <S> My 2 cents
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Increasing the size of the pipe will reduce friction losses and result in slightly more pressure -
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What is the significance that "no blade is involved" in threading pipe? Lowe's (a big US chain home improvement store) offers black iron pipe cutting and threading services to customers. Basically they sell the pipe & will alter it for you. From their website in the "We Cut It" section says that they offer: ... pipe threading and cutting for any size galvanized or black iron pipe. The process involves a machine-based cutting operation with a metal wheel that creates threads in the ends of pipes. This service is specifically designed to both thread and cut pipes. No blade is involved in the process . I italicized the last part of this statement - what is the significance that no blade is involved? I assume it is important or why would they even bother to mention it? I'm no expert but do have a little experience cutting threads (manual taps & dies) and from what I'd seen I thought pipe threading was essentially the same thing. But this makes me think I'm missing something? I need to do some pipework projects soon and mainly I just want to make sure I'm educated well enough to do it right! Thanks Note - there is a "learn more" link on their website, but it doesn't offer information about this. <Q> When pipe is cut with a blade it can result in material debris and/or metal filings or oxides inside the pipe. <S> This is equivalent to dangerous sediments or solids in a gas line which can damage or clog equipment. <S> Pipes cut with a blade will likely need to be cleaned and/or flushed before use. <S> Imagine PVC filings clogging a sprinkler head. <S> Using something like a wheel or die should not pollute the pipe interior. <A> A die is not a blade. <S> That is what makes threads. <S> A pipe cutter uses a round wheel that is not sharp but is tapered to a dull point. <S> I make hundreds of threads and pipe length adjustments. <S> I have made thousands of threads or pipe cuts and rarely use blades (like a hack saw or Sawzall). <S> Pipes cut with a blade may not be true and are harder to thread and much harder to assemble if not totally perpendicular. <S> This is the only reason I could see them mentioning it. <S> Unless in an area banning knives? <S> But no knives are normally used. <A> The way I read the section it feels like they are trying to say "this process is specific for pipes, and we can't cut anything else even if it is pipe shaped. <S> There is no blade, just special wheels and machines that only cut pipe threads".
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Saying no blade may mean that if the end of a pipe thread is not filed it can slice you open as fast as a cutco knife from the factory.
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luxury vinyl flooring under gas stove I want to install luxury vinyl floor in my kitchen. If I don't want to move my gas stove, can I install it up to first couple of inches under front side of stove? Is that OK with a floating floor (tongue and groove)? Can it be left like this? <Q> This is actually done quite often, especially with gas appliances. <S> People don't want to disconnect the gas lines to move their stoves. <S> Many times the gas company will disconnect/reconnect for you. <S> I have never floored around an appliance <S> but I see it a lot. <A> I don’t skimp often as some places have ended up without a stove and the buyer backed out until we finished the space on 1 flip and the next one we finished it after a renter damaged the stove, it can be done but after a couple of issues I totally finish dishwasher, stove and closet spaces , things my mentor said to skip but is 20$ worth the loss of a sale later ??? <S> Your choice, yes it can be done but I quit doing this in the early 90’s. <A> I don’t foresee this causing any issues, and if it did then you could just move the stove at that time and rectify the situation. <S> Probably a non issue
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If you choose to do this, do yourself a favor and save a few lengths of the flooring in case you decide later to correct this.
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Outdoor Outlet Non-GFCI Downstream of GFCI Can I run a non-gfci outlet outside if it is downstream from a GFCI outlet on the same circuit? <Q> Yes, you can do that, using the LOAD side of the GFCI. <S> But not only can <S> you do it, it is actually a very good idea . <S> That is because GFCI includes sensitive electronics not in a regular receptacle. <S> Keeping a GFCI clean and dry and temperature controlled will likely make it last much longer than it would outside. <A> Sure you can. <S> If the downstream outlet is fed from the GFCI receptacle's LINE terminals, it will not have GFCI protection. <S> Intending to protect downline loads is the only valid purpose of the LOAD terminals. <S> They should not be used for any other purpose. <A> "And this is still the case even if the non-gfci is outdoors?" <S> Yes, anything that's downstream on that circuit will be GFCI protected regardless of whether its located indoors or outdoors. <S> As long as you continue the circuit from the LOAD side, just like what the last person said.
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If it's fed from the GFCI recep's LOAD terminals, it will have GFCI protection.
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What alternatives are there for basement post footings besides concrete? House is cabin construction 2x4's. Dirt floor. Main support piers in the center of the house are sunk concrete, but the beams are sagging all over. Center support piers are reasonable. I used jackposts on concrete blocks between the center support pier and outside wall. The problem was crawlspace was wet so the blocks sunk. I have remedied most of the wet problem. So the right way to do this is to dig down 2 feet and sink some concrete, then jackposts under the sagging part of the beam. (ok should be wood pier...) I was told only screw the jackpost say 1 inch a week till its level. Are there alternatives to sinking concrete? It's rather cold here now and the less I have to be under the house, the better. Thanks. <Q> As Steve Foutz said, you're looking for surface area, and it has to be something that won't flex into a banana under load. <A> (See ICC Section 1805) <S> It even allows for treated wood members but they must be designed for expansive soil conditions, seismic conditions, must be constrained (can’t lay loose on ground), AND must be BELOW ground water conditions. <S> The reason it must be below ground water conditions is because bugs can’t survive below water. <S> Some of the other answers suggest using treated wood on the ground or on gravel. <S> These suggestions are for temporary repair ONLY. <S> Ultimately you’ll need concrete footings or treated piles, etc. <A> I don't think digging a deeper hole into wet ground is going to help you. <S> You need more surface area. <S> I would form and pour a footing two to three times the area of the support you currently have. <S> If it is too cold to pour, then I would simply put the jack on some 4x4 or 4x6. <S> If you are sure you will fix it in the spring, it doesn't matter what kind of lumber you use. <S> If you may forget it, or it becomes a 'git'er later', then use pressure treat or ground contact lumber.
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The Building Code allows for alternate footing designs other than concrete and allows for treated wood piles, steel piers, etc. A bed of gravel under 3' 6x6 sleepers or a triple stack of 2x10s should do fine.
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How to remove sheared woodscrew behind a 5mm hole? I'm looking for a way of removing a sheared-off stainless steel woodscrew embedded in a hardwood plank that is accessible only via a 5.5mm diameter circular hole in a metal panel. The screw is secured fast, so will need a good amount of torque to remove. The hole is too small for needle-nose pliers and the metal panel can't be removed without a lot of effort. Because the exposed part of the shaft is mangled at the top, I've thought about several possibilities: A female square/hex key narrow enough to fit into the hole. A square/rectangular cross-section metal tube that I can fasten over the exposed shaft. However, short of going bespoke, I'm not aware of any standardized tools/materials like this. I'd be grateful for any advice on how I can get it out, short of drilling it. <Q> A quick update on this question that I asked several days ago. <S> The way of removing a sheared screw like this is by attaching a tubular diamond drill bit (for drilling into tiles, as in the image below) to a power drill. <S> The internal diameter of the drill bit should match the diameter of the shaft of the screw, so that it fits tightly. <S> In this case, a 3mm internal-diameter drill bit. <S> If the drill is spun in reverse direction while forward pressure is applied, the diamond encrusted tip of the drill bit bites into the screw thread in counter-clockwise direction, turning the screw. <S> The more tightly the screw is embedded, the more forward pressure may be needed to turn it. <S> If the first attempt fails, and you just end up cutting away the thread, leaving just the shaft, using a smaller-diameter drill bit (just enough to bite into the outer circumference of the shaft) may work. <A> You could try taking a dowel rod that fits in the hole and drilling a 2 mm hole in the end of it. <S> Put some epoxy in the hole you just drilled and then screw the dowel rod down onto the shank of the screw in the hole. <S> Wait for the epoxy to harden and then try to "unscrew" the dowel rod from the hole backing the screw out with it. <S> I know you don't want to remove the other screws <S> but that might be the easiest. <S> Then you could enlarge the wood hole enough to use needle nose pliers to remove the screw and then reassemble the hinge plate. <A> I've had occasional success with a left-hand drill bit. <S> If the sheared end of the screw is relatively flat, or if you can get a small grinder into the hole to make it flat, then you could try this. <S> It might be necessary to construct some kind of aid (a block on the surface, a tube going into the boss, etc) to keep the bit centered on the screw. <S> A left hand drill bit is so named because it has a left-hand, or reverse, cutting direction. <S> You'd run a drill in reverse to make the bit cut. <S> This way the force of the drill cutting away the screw metal acts to unwind the screw at the same time. <S> In the worst case you end up removing all the screw metal by drilling; in the best case, the drill causes the screw to twist out early. <A> <A> The fact that its Stainless Steel means that you applied an extreme amount of torque before it snapped... hence that guys is in strong!.. <S> solutions are not going to be easy.. <S> Some possible options HEAT: if there is a way to get a small blowtorch flame onto the base of the screw , you could heat the screw and singe the wood around the contact points of the screw.. <S> that would at least loosen the "grip" ready to use one of the proposed solutions REAR ACCESS: if you can get access to the back of the board, you could use a grip plyers to turn it out from the back. <S> Bend the Shaft: If there were a way to bend the shaft, you could make some contraption to get leverage to twist it out. <S> some sort of reverse drilling technique: as proposed with diamond head bits or screw removal tools, but being stanless steel, your device must be hard. <S> Welding: if you can weld.. you can simply weld an adapter to the expose head and turn out Removal of a block of wood: <S> Use a hole saw and remove the entirearea, then replace hole with a dowel stick. <S> drill a second hole: and patch up this leaving it for ever in thewood.
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I think the easiest solution would be to remove the plate, use a hole saw to remove the screw and the wood around the screw, and then plug the hole after with a dowel and glue.
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Is there a measuring method for determining of the real thermal conductivity of a building component? We would like to determine which elements of building are to be renewed or changed. Among other things, we want know which elements are subject to a specific heat transfer. Does exist a measuring method to determine the real existing value of thermal transmittance (W/(m²·K)) or R-value ((m²·K)/W) of a bulding component (e.g. wall, roof, window glass, window frame, ...)? And what accuracy is there? <Q> Window manufacturers will provide those values and they are used when designing the building envelope. <S> Perhaps the easiest way to determine the worst performing parts of the building is to use a thermal imaging camera. <S> Trying to remove, then test under laboratory conditions components would be challenging and difficult. <A> For any changes concerning walls or roof there is a site providing an easy tool for calculating thermal losses, dew points and more . <S> Each layer can be edited and switched on/off to instantly see any change if an insulation layer is added or removed. <S> But it is mainly based on European materials and standards. <S> It is free for private use. <S> www.ubakus.de <S> Fastest way is to choose an adequate example (menu) and to edit the layers. <S> Disclaimer: I do not have any association with that web site <S> , I do not benefit/profit in any way from my recommendation/mentioning of that site. <S> It is just by far the most professional and sophisticated site to calculate and visualize the relevant insulation parameters that I have found up to now. <A> If you know what makes up your wall (for example), you can find thermal conductivity (U-values) or insulating values (R-values) for most/all common building materials such as wood panels, drywall, insulating materials, etc. <S> You can then just stack up the insulating (R-values) given the type and thickness of the material in your wall and come with a total R or U value. <S> For things like windows and doors, manufactures usually provide R or U value for their products.
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There are books and papers which have generic values for single, double and triple glazed windows, this is also available for all types of insulation used in the roof and walls..
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Old single pane House window has a crack, can I fix it using a resin? Old single pane House window has a crack, can I fix it using a resin? Sort of like how a windshield crack can be repaired with resin? <Q> I'm going to say no on this because of how a windshield is made. <S> They are a layered construction with glass on the outside and a plastic material on the inside. <S> A small crack or chip in a windshield doesn't cause a structural failure - the other layers hold the window together. <S> Resin can be injected into the glass crack and pushed against the other layers with pressure to completely fill the crack. <S> On a single pane window, there is no backup. <S> A crack means the glass is literally broken in half at that point and the crack will spread very easily. <S> And pressure put on the glass to force the resin into the crack would probably be enough to make the crack expand across the glass. <A> I have had single pane glass replaced before typically it is quite affordable - <S> I think last time my bill was $80. <S> You just call glass people to do it. <S> Even if you could use a resin which I suspect you couldn't in an aesthetic way - it never looks as good and would be a lot of work. <A> Replacing a single window pane in a multi-pane window sash in the window of an old house is not that hard. <S> My friend taught me how to do it. <S> In our old house the putty is mostly on the inside face of the window pane enclosure in the sash. <S> You carefully take out the old window putty that is holding in the old, broken pane. <S> Then (with gloves and safety glasses) take out the pieces of the broken pane. <S> You will need the smallest tub of window putty the hardware store sells, a putty tool for doing window panes, and you will need to measure the opening in the sash. <S> The hardware store can then cut you a new pane to measure, and sell you the glazing putty, the glazing points, and the putty knife and box cutter for maybe $30 - a lot less than $80. <S> Here's a YouTube video on how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dc67opK57sk
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If you were very careful, you may be able to just dab some resin on the surface of the crack and possibly reduce its visibility and give it a little extra strength, but it won't be the same fix as a car window.
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Why do LED Lights Flicker on Low Dimmer Setting I just wired up the following schematic and both sets of LED recessed lights will flicker when dimmed below full power. It doesn't matter what the other dimmer is set to (full power, low power, off). The flicker is very quick, it is sporadic and doesn't follow a pattern. All lights on each line are included in the flicker. When set to full power on the dimmer slider, no flickering occurs. Both of the dimmers are the same and they are listed as compatible on each set of lights. All of the wiring that I ran was 12/2 based on this being on a 20 amp breaker. All of the LED lights come with junction boxes and screw on pigtails down to the actual light. In the set of 4 LED's on the left of drawing, I have all 4 junction boxes wired up, but only the last light is connected by its pigtail as the wife wants to wait for the countertop to be installed before deciding how many lights she actually wants over it. So I may be removing a 1 or 2 of those lights from the line. The middle switches in each 3 gang box are simple on/off switches to run either a ceiling fan or an exhaust fan. I am curious of what steps I should take to try and diagnose the flicker. I just rechecked all wiring connections and nothing is loose. My thoughts are that either the three missing lights on run one are causing the flicker. Or the USB outlets sharing the neutral line are causing the flicker. Or the dimmers, even after being listed as compatible actually aren't. Is there anything in this schematic that jumps out to someone before I start buying different switches and outlets to troubleshoot with? LED Lights Link #1 LED Lights Link #2 Dimmers Link #3 <Q> LEDs on AC Power <S> Don't Like to be Dimmed. <S> Period. <S> (LEDs on DC can actually be dimmed quite easily - just look at an older battery powered LED device (like handheld computer games from the 1980s) and you can see the LEDs dim when the battery is low.) <S> But most AC powered LED lights - whether complete fixtures or Edison bulb incandescent replacements - have a driver circuit that takes high voltage AC and turns it into low voltage DC. <S> That process does not lend itself well to dimming. <S> A modern dimmer is not, contrary to popular belief (including what I thought when I was a kid) simply reducing the constant amount of current or voltage. <S> Rather, it chops up the power into little pieces and only sends some of those pieces to the lights. <S> With incandescent lights, only the total power really matters much. <S> It also helps that the incandescent lights use the power "as is", where an LED light has to convert from 120V AC down to very low voltage DC. <S> So this works fine on incandescent lights. <S> However, CFL & LED lights are, essentially "on or off". <S> So dimming becomes a lot more complicated. <S> With LEDs in particular, it takes very little power to produce light, so you often end up in one of two situations: <S> Flickering - The LED gathers up enough "bits of power" until it has enough to produce light. <S> Uses that power to produce light. <S> Waits for some more power. <S> Dim - This is actually what you want with a dimmer. <S> But with LEDs this can happen even with a very small trickle of current to power a timer/motion detector/etc., with the result that "off" is never really "off". <S> There are technical solutions, aka "dimmable compatible LEDs" together with "LED compatible dimmers". <S> But despite the best efforts, sometimes they just don't work well together. <S> As you have found out the hard way. <S> If both the LED fixtures and the dimmers claim compatibility, I would start by trying a different brand of dimmer to see if that helps. <A> The specifications of the LED lights you have say they will dim down to 10% without any flicker or buzzing. <S> Some lights don't go down that far, and some will go even further. <S> Based on the manual for your dimmer switch, there is an adjustment to change the low end of the dimming range: <S> I would assume the switch would be factory set to work with most lights, but maybe the quantity of lights or their exact dimming capability is a little outside the norm. <S> Follow that adjustment procedure and <S> see if it helps. <S> If you feel like you have to adjust the minimum dimming to be quite high, you should also plug in all the lights and make sure that is not making the problem worse. <A> Check that your LED bulbs are compatible with dimmers, and check that your dimmers are compatible with LEDs. <S> If their respective packages don't say, then they probably aren't compatible and you will have problems. <S> Even if everything claims to be compatible, you still might have issues. <S> In that case, the best you can do is experiment with different brands and models of each until you get a combination that works. <S> Both AC dimmers and AC LED bulbs employ some electrical trickery to perform their intended function. <S> AC dimmers make the light appear dimmer by turning the voltage on and off very quickly. <S> This on-off effect happens at twice the line frequency (e.g. 120 Hz) which is usually too fast to see. <S> LED bulbs typically need less voltage than is provided by the AC line, as well as constant forward polarity (in contrast to AC's alternating polarity). <S> Packed inside the bulb is a small circuit to make these adjustments. <S> In isolation, both of these things work pretty well, but when combined, things can start behaving weirdly. <S> The dimmer's rapid switching disrupts power to the LED bulb's voltage regulation, and the LED bulb's voltage regulation prevents the dimmer's rapid switching from having a useful effect. <S> There are "dimmable" LED bulbs that are designed to cope with dimmers, and "LED compatible" dimmers that are designed to cope with LED bulbs, but neither are guaranteed to work well in all cases. <A> I'll tell you a secret : they flicker all the time <S> You just don't notice it, because the higher the power, the longer they stay ON and quicker switch on/off. <S> As you dim down them, their flickering becomes more even and noticeable. <S> What about randomness ? <S> Well, it flickers randomly to minimize harmonics disturbance. <S> Wait, what's that ? <S> It's topic for another question on stack exchange... <A> Electronic devices like LED compatible dimmers that chop up the AC power into tiny chunks tend to generate electronic noise that consists of harmonics of the line frequency but at very high frequencies. <S> These signals will bounce around between other devices nearby through the wiring. <S> This can cause interactions between those devices which would be more likely to be noticed in LEDs operating at low output levels. <S> Some electrical devices are marked "Surge Protected" such as "Surge Protected" Receptacles, which contain special circuitry to absorb the electronic noise that may be present. <S> The protection works best when it is very close to the source of the electronic noise or close to the susceptible load. <S> If, for example, you insert a "5280" surge protected receptacle between the dimmers and the LED lights you should see a noticeable reduction in the flickering. <S> There are many other devices marked "Surge Protected" that would also work if they fit betteer into your specific application.
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Essentially, the LED light has to figure out that the chopped up bits of power are not a deliberate attempt at flickering the lights but rather intended to dim the lights.
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GFCI vs. 40v 5ah battery for water safety My wife has recently taken to running a cord out near our pool to watch TV. She's very careful, but I was thinking of doing what I can to make it safer, since the outlet in question is NOT a GFCI outlet (It's a standard US 110v outlet). One obvious solution is an inline GFCI (or installing a GFCI outlet) The other more expensive idea that occurred to me is using a 5ah 40v lithium battery that I can purchase a 300w inverter for. My guess here is that if the wired TV were to go into the water, a GFCI would be better than nothing, but unsafe...whereas the battery would be practically speaking likely to be completely safe. Can anyone enlighten me as to which approach would be the safest, and if either or both is actually "safe"? The water is typical "saline-pool" water. <Q> It doesn't need to be a GFCI outlet. <S> It needs to be GFCI protected . <S> GFCI protection is conferred by having any particular outlet obtain power power from the LOAD side of a GFCI device somewhere. <S> On most string-topology circuits, a single well-placed GFCI device will protect the whole circuit. <S> If you stick a GFCI tester in there, push the button and the outlet goes dead, you're sympatico. <S> The bigger problem is the temptation to bring cords to the pool area Your #1 safety risk is the fact that people wanting to plug things in, in the pool area, feel a need to run an extension cord from some distant location. <S> This requires a social-engineering solution. <S> You need to rearrange your home to suppress that desire . <S> So either put GFCI protection on every outlet they might ever dream to tap... or, install a plethora of outlets, actually poolside, that are protected by a GFCI device somewhere. <S> I prefer to have my GFCI devices indoors, so I make extensive use of the LOAD feature of GFCIs. <S> Now there's no reason for someone to run an extension cord to the pool area; there are outlets all over the place. <S> GFCI is safe as you're going to get A properly installed GFCI setup, with the protection device some distance from the outlet, is as safe as things can be. <S> It will trip the GFCI if hot or neutral current takes a path other than the normal one. <S> Higher DC voltages bite. <S> HARD. <S> Electronics and car people tend to believe DC is docile and harmless. <S> It is at 12V, yes. <S> However, somewhere in the 20s it starts getting a personality, and by about 60 volts it goes full honey-badger. <S> Can 40V bite you? <S> Oh, yes it can! <S> And it won't let go, either. <S> So ixnay on the 40V battery pack. <S> I encourage you to develop a little bit of fear of it. <S> TVs are 12 volts, anyway <S> Better off just using a battery pack that size than do a double conversion. <A> High voltages may be present inside the TV, and eliminating ground does not make the electricity harmless in water. <S> When energized electrodes are applied to water, an electric field is created which extends far from the electrodes. <S> Depending on the voltage, whether there's pulsing or AC, and current this can induce muscle contractions and make people and animals unable to leave the water, or maintain a safe posture above the water. <S> So, in short, no - a battery and inverter combination is not safe, and certainly not safer than a GFCI protection unit. <S> While a properly used GFCI will stop the current very quickly once a wire or electrical appliance drops into the water - it will only do so if the appliance doesn't have an isolated power supply. <S> Most electronics, however, do have voltage converters that isolate internal power from the power line, which means it's possible for a partially submerged electronic device to create an electric field in the water without causing the GFCI to trip. <S> The only adequate solution is to mount the TV and all wiring in a permanent fashion so it cannot come into contact with the water, and to GFCI protect it. <S> You may need a larger TV to make up for the distance from the water, and you may need more weather proofing if this is outdoors. <S> Any solution where it's possible for the electronics or wires to come into contact with the water is inadequate, regardless of the care of those using the equipment, or the protections you might put in line. <S> An alternative is using a tablet in a waterproof case, or one of the many newer waterproof or rugged tablets. <S> It will probably be cheaper and more flexible than the TV, and if you have cable or satellite service you can use it with online streaming to get essentially the same content without having to use a real TV. <S> If you already have a suitable tablet, the waterproof case would be cheaper than hiring an electrician to mount the TV and wire in a GFCI outlet. <A> How about bolting the TV set to the wall permanently (above the possible splashes) AND employing GFCI for all circuits that go somewhere near the pool? <S> It is just a matter of time someone to bring a hair dryer.
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If the TV is mounted to the wall, for instance, and connected via a short cord to a GFCI outlet mounted high on the wall with a tamper evident cover and lock (to discourage others plugging in extension cords which could reach to the water) then you'll achieve a reasonable level of safety. Besides, now that TV tubes are gone, lot of TVs these days actually use a low voltage, typically 12 volts.
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Attaching drywall to cracked/sagging plaster ceiling? I have a plaster & lath ceiling in a bedroom that is in need of repair - it's intact for the most part, but it's pretty unsightly. Since the entire ceiling is full of cracks, I'd rather simply cover it with a layer of 1/2" sheet rock. Would the drywall be sufficient to clamp the sagging parts to the lath/studs, or should I use plaster washers and then attach the drywall? I know furring strips and then drywall would probably be the safest bet, but I'd rather try to keep as much ceiling height as possible. Thanks <Q> The plaster is sagging probably due to issues with some of the lathe boards above it. <S> Those need to be repaired. <S> If you have access above this you could just knock these totally out and reframe with 2x4s. <S> This would probably be the quickest way. <S> As far as mess... <S> You are thinking about this wrong. <S> Demoing might be a mess. <S> Sanding the mud for the new drywall will be 10 times worse for your house. <S> (this will take minutes) <S> Then reframe and then add drywall. <S> This space will have to be totally emptied out. <S> Day 2 you can add second - final set of mud (if you are really good). <S> This will take at least two days to dry. <S> Day 4 you are sanding. <S> That is best case scenario. <S> Room will have to be emptied and doorways will have to be tarped off from rest of the house. <A> Adding a layer of gypsum board over your existing plaster will only be as level as the existing plaster. <S> First, make sure it’s acceptable. <S> Second, you may want to test it to make sure <S> it’s not asbestos. <S> If it is, there’s no special reason to remove it, but you’ll want to be extra careful working in that room until it’s “encapsulated” with the new layer of gypsum board. <S> Finding the support spacings above and anchoring into them seems safer. <S> AND you’ll probably want 5/8” thick gypsum board in lieu of 1/2”...1/2” tends to sag over time if the supports are more than 12” on center. <A> I had a similar issue with my brother-in-laws house. <S> The ceiling was sagging badly in the middle of the living room, it was almost 3" lower in the middle than the walls!!! <S> Turned out that the joists were terribly over-spanned... <S> like 20' 2x4s. <S> Earlier, he and his wife, not knowing better used the attic space as storage. <S> Then he added a layer of sheetrock. <S> I ended up tearing out the ceiling joists completely and replace with 2x8s. <S> (there were no trusses). <S> But we did some tie-ins to the rafters to support the roof. <S> Needless to say this was a major patch job to make the house last a bit longer for them. <S> The house wasn't worth major repairs, in reality it's a tear down. <S> Sorry for such a long explanation, but the bottom line is be sure your ceiling joist <S> /truss/attic structure is solid before making more cosmetic repairs. <S> I like Dmoore's suggestion. <S> His timeline is for professionals who are good at it... <S> probably a crew as well, not just a single DIY'er! <S> Still, I think his approach is solid: <S> Get that old stuff outta there and evaluate the structure. <S> Maybe add insulation if needed at the same time. <S> You'll want to be sure you're screwing the sheetrock to the joists, not just lathe.
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Depending on the existing ceiling plaster’s condition, anchoring to the plaster could be a problem. My advice is knock out the ceiling. If you are quick you can get drywall up with first coat of mud in day 1. It was old and poorly constructed.
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Adding an outlet to the dishwasher/disposer circuit I have switched garbage disposal, like many people do. The switch is on a wall w/o any outlets. I'd like to convert the switch to a switch/outlet combo. I read that you shouldn't add an outlet to the dishwasher or disposal circuit so I figured I'd ask y'all. Here are some facts: The dishwasher is hardwired. The garbage disposal is corded (not hardwired) and runs to an outlet under the sink. Nothing else is plugged into that outlet. I'm not sure if the dishwasher and disposal are on the same circuit. Or what else is on either circuit. I'm not sure what the amperage of either circuit is. Here are my questions: As a general question, can I add an outlet to the garbage disposal switch? If yes, what considerations do I need to take into account? What questions would I need to know the answers to before proceeded? What would I need to change? If no, why not? Thank y'all so much!Jason <Q> This should be fine* <S> There is not a restriction that a disposal must be on a dedicated circuit unless the manufacturer states that it must be. <S> Unless you have a high-end beast of a commercial unit, it probably doesn't. <S> There are rules in the NEC on circuit sharing, and <S> a "fixed" device like a disposal or dishwasher can't use any more than 50% of the circuit capacity if that circuit is to be shared with general purpose lighting/outlets. <S> What that means in your case is that if the dishwasher shares the circuit, it probably uses more than 50% because of the heater used for drying and water heating. <S> I think that means you really shouldn't share it with the disposal either <S> and it should be dedicated (so I normally see a dedicated circuit for them). <S> GFCI required As you stated, a GFCI outlet is required, and that means you will need a two gang box. <S> There are switch/outlet combos you could stuff into a single box, but not with GFCI <S> (Link in comments, single gang switch/GFCI does exit), but you probably want more than a singe receptacle. <S> Upgrade to a two gang (or three!) <S> box and use a GFCI outlet. <A> Expanding on the comments here. <S> 1) determine whether your dishwasher is on the same circuit. <S> Turn breakers off & see what happens with each breaker, i.e. does the outlet stay live while the dishwasher goes down? <S> 2) look up the amperage drawn by the dispos-all and any other items (dishwasher or anything else that share that breaker. <S> Compare with breaker capacity. <S> 3) <S> If everything is copascetic, go ahead and add an outlet connected to the hot and neutral source side wires feeding the disposal switch. <S> You'll need a larger receptacle box, and the usual array of wire nuts for connections, etc. <A> Just about a week ago I was asking the inspector several questions regarding helping my son build a house. <S> During our discussion I mentioned I planned to put the garbage disposal outlet on the same circuit as some kitchen outlets (3 20 amp circuits for small appliances, so plenty of power). <S> He said no way, a GD is a permanently installed appliance requiring it's own circuit. <S> OK, I asked could I share it with a DW circuit. <S> He was less committal on that, but repeated that all permanently installed appliances required their own circuit. <S> So if this will be inspected, you'll want to check with your local inspector and get his/her input.
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If the disposal is on it's own or already shared with other kitchen outlets, you are fine to add an outlet.
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Masonry bits dulling after 3-4 holes I'm using an 18v makita hammer drill with a 3/16" Bosch blue granite turbo concrete bit to drill 2" deep holes into concrete-filled cinder blocks. With a fresh bit, it takes about 15 seconds to drill a hole. By the 4th hole, it slows to a crawl and it takes 2-3 minutes to drill a complete hole. After the 5th hole, the bit is completely shot and I have to get a new bit. I've gone through half a dozen bits now, trying to discover what I'm doing wrong - and I have no idea. The hammering action of the drill isn't activating, so i'm losing all of the impact potential - I can't really apply any more force than I am already, as the drilling is happening over-head at an awkward angle... Any idea if there's a reason the bits dull so quickly? Is this a better job for an impact drill? I should also say that I can't notice any visible difference on the tip of the bit - it doesn't look blunted, or marred, which is part of why it's so puzzling. I don't have a means to sharpen it, but just from visual inspection it looks OK <Q> The hammering action of the drill isn't activating <S> It is supposed to hammer the material you're drilling into dust then evacuate it, not rub it off through friction. <S> You have to activate the hammer action. <S> Pretty much the only use cases for not using the hammer action are when drilling into ceramic tile to avoid breaking it, or drilling into plasterboard or other soft materials where hammering will smash through and make a crater on the other side... <S> Is this a better job for an impact drill? <S> Advantages of cordless hammer drill 's are Light weight. <S> Convenience, you can drill the hole and drive the screw with the same tool. <S> It works for a few small holes (like less than 6mm diameter) in easy to drill materials like brick, cinderblock, soft stone (limestone), etc. <S> Drawbacks: noisy and underpowered, slow/useless on tough materials (hard stone, concrete especially if it contains rebar). <S> If you want to make lots of holes, or diameters like 10mm and up, or drill into tough stuff, a rotary hammer with SDS+ bits will be a LOT faster . <S> Don't get an impact driver for drilling, impact drivers are for bolts and tough screws, not for drilling. <S> I don't have a means to sharpen it, but just from visual inspection it looks OK <S> It's tungsten carbide, you can't really sharpen it. <S> Besides, it doesn't need to be really sharp, it's basically a tiny hammer with a blunt point. <A> An SDS-plus hammer drill will make holes very fast using a bit that starts hardly sharp and rapidly becomes completely dull. <S> It really doesn't care, because it's a pneumatic hammer action and the rotary action is just to clear away the dust. <S> (It also works with masonry chisel bits if you turn the rotation off. <S> An "ordinary" hammer/non-hammer drill had a very inferior hammer action (when engaged). <S> I'd have expected it to be OK with 3/16 into cinder blocks and soft bricks, but on solid concrete or hard bricks, not much or no good. <S> I never purchased expensive bits for use with such a drill. <S> I used cheap-as-chips <S> Chinese carbide tipped drills sold in 6-packs and threw them away when they wore out, which they did often. <S> When I moved to a house built of natural stone outside and inside, the hardest bricks I have ever encountered, I gave up and bought Bosch's cheapest SDS_plus hammer drill. <S> It was money very well spent. <A> The hammering action of the drill linked in the picture doesn't really need anything more than turning the dial to the hammer setting - it doesn't selectively "activate." <S> It should be pretty noticeable but <S> nothing that's going to bounce you out of your shorts. <S> The mechanism is usually something like two plastic poker chips rotating, which gives you some vibration, but not true hammering action like a rotary hammer. <S> It's likely you're just heating up the bits and ruining them quickly. <A> Make sure you have not accidentally set the drill in reverse mode. <S> When the bit rotates the wrong way it causes the bit to heat up and wear out. <S> Something similar to this happened to a friend and to myself. <A> Go to harbor freight and get an SDS or SDS max. <S> Any consumer/pro drill that has a 'hammer' mode will stink compared to a proper tool. <S> I've gone through much harder material using the SDS-Max <S> I bought for 100$ whereas I would ruin bits with my makita or Milwaukee. <S> So yes, you're over heating the bit <S> and it isn't removing the material right.
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If you're setting the dial to hammer and exerting decent pressure, it's the drill that's the problem. So the bit is overheating due to friction.
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2-pole 30 amp breaker into two individual 120 receptacles? So i have a single 30 amp 240 volt dryer plug that is fed from this 2 pole 30 amp breaker. It has a breaker tie so it throws together. If i wanted to remove the plug and put quad 20 amp receptacles (two different circuits using each hot that I currently have in the box.) is this possible? I can remove the breaker tie, so it wouldn’t throw together, but with it sharing a neutral and being 30 amp breakers, I’m not sure if i can put the 20 amp receptacles. Also the wire ran to the current box with the 30 amp plug is 10 guage, not sure if that would be fine with 20 amp receptacles? <Q> The lack of a separate safety ground is a show-stopper. <S> In fact, this circuit is unsafe, obsolete, and has been illegal in new construction for over 20 years <S> - it is legal because it is grandfathered. <S> Full stop. <S> You should do that, seriously. <S> And then let 24 hours go by. <S> Once that is done and in your rear-view mirror... <S> Then, since there's already a ground here (it's not like you're adding the ground today ), you can go three different ways to power your NEMA 5-15 plug-in loads. <S> You can fit a "Subpanel" here. <S> Powered off <S> that nice 4-wire feed <S> , it can then have a subsidiary 30A breaker for the dryer as well as 15/20A breakers for your various 120V loads. <S> That would be four breakers to get the most out of your 30A feed. <S> You can get a PDU (Power Distribution Unit) with a NEMA 14-30 cord. <S> The PDU acts like a subpanel in terms of breakering. <S> You can remove that fat receptacle from the wall, and replace it with two normal NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 dual receptacles, with appropriate cover plate. <S> But then, you will need to change the circuit breaker to 20A. <S> Now, to wire the receptacles, you split with pigtails the grounds to both receptacles. <S> Black goes to one recep hot, red to the other. <S> Can't I just both retrofit the ground and convert the receptacles in one day? <S> No. <S> Since these new receps are effectively new work, it would need to be done to new-work standard with new cable homeruns, and you wouldn't be allowed to retrofit ground. <A> 20 <S> Amp MWBC <S> This <S> may be a good candidate for a 20 Amp Multi-Wire Branch Circuit. <S> An MWBC uses 2 hots + neutral + ground . <S> The big question (as noted elsewhere) is ground. <S> 1 - Replace 30 <S> Amp x 2 breakers with 20 Anp x 2 breakers. <S> Needs to be handle tied or common trip. <S> 2 - Must have separate neutral and ground wires. <S> You might not have that, need to check. <S> A 3-wire dryer receptacle does not use ground, but there is a possibility that you have a ground wire ready & waiting. <S> Metal conduit, if you have it end-to-end can be a substitute for a ground wire. <S> If not then it gets a bit complicated - i.e., "retrofit ground and <S> later replace the receptacle and breakers." <S> 3 - Depends on location, but very likely you will need GFCI, either as part of the breaker or receptacles. <S> Note that with GFCI you can't use "2 separate 20 Amp GFCI breakers". <S> You either need a double 20 Amp breaker with GFCI (i.e., one unit that connects to both of the hots & the shared neutral) <S> or you can do the GFCI at the individual receptacles after splitting neutral. <A> You can always use the oversized wire, you can pigtail on smaller wire if you have to. <S> So if you replace the breaker with a two pole 20A you're all set. <S> Not code compliant, not safe, don't do it. <A> I think you have to kinda square dance your way through the intent of the NEC, but 406.4(D)(2) says you can replace ungrounded receptacles "with a ground-fault circuit interrupter type recepacle(s) <S> ". <S> It doesn't actually say same voltage/same amperage. <S> , you can't leave it on a 30 amp breaker, nor should you want to. <S> If you had some little #16 AWG cord plugged in <S> and it got pinched on a 30A breaker it could draw 60A for 2 minutes before tripping. <S> On a 20A breaker should trip in less than 35 seconds. <S> That could be the difference between a bad smell and a bad fire. <A> It appears that you have a 3 conductor #10. <S> You can't make this 2 separate circuits and use the bare ground as the grounded conductor(neutral) and the grounding conductor(ground). <S> Since this would be a straight circuit, we would reduce the breaker to 20amps single pole and move the White conductor to the neutral bar leaving the Black conductor to the 20amp breaker. <S> The bare ground will remain terminated to the ground bar. <S> Use a breaker blank to fill the empty space in the panel. <S> Now at the receptacle end make taps with #12 and go to each 20amp 120v duplex receptacle. <S> Since this is now a straight 20amp circuit, you may be able to add a couple of extras if needed.
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Again you need to change it to a two pole 20 amp breaker Regardless of whether you ever power something else here, the best thing you can do is search for an existing ground, and if absent, retrofit a #10 ground wire to this receptacle and change it to a NEMA 14-30 type recep (and the dryer to a NEMA 14-30 cord, while removing the onboard neutral-ground strap on the dryer). But you can't use 20A receptacles on a 30A circuit, protected by a 30A breaker; the breaker is too big to protect the receptacles in the event of an overload. You split with pigtails the netural to both receptacles. Also as others have said sharing the neutral creates what the Code calls a multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC), the code requires a two pole breaker or a listed handle tie. You would only be able to exploit a retrofit-grounded dryer circuit if it was already like that. We have changed these over. Black White and ground to this receptacle. The Code is subject to interpretation of the AHJ, so you might quickly lose, but you might not.
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Simplest solution for hanging 50lb frame with welded hooks I have a 50lb mirror I'd like to hang. It has an iron frame with two hangers welded onto the curved top edge on the back. Here's a close-up of one of them: The hangers are about 17" apart on center, and the keyhole cutouts are 3/4" wide. The wall is standard drywall, and there happens to be a stud dead-center where I'd like to hang it. What are the simplest and safest options here? Considerations: I haven't checked yet but there's no guarantee that the brackets are 100% level, so the solution needs to be able to account for that. I'd like for the mirror to hang as flush to the wall as possible, minimizing lean-out and gap. I'm pretty conservative re: hanging weight and would strongly prefer using the stud for support, although I can be convinced otherwise. I saw this (Hillman no-stud hanger) mentioned in another answer and perhaps two of those could work if the result hangs fairly close to the wall, although point #1 could make this very challenging. Preference is for a minimum of "construction": cutting wood, etc. This technique (spanning plywood) seems to be a good solution, and I can make it happen, but if there's something simpler that is as safe I'd be interested. My experience with hanging anything close to this heavy is to just use a z-bar, but I don't have that option with this frame. <Q> (Suitably sturdy) <S> Picture hanging wire. <S> Wire between the hangers, put a screw or hook into the stud, hang and adjust. <S> "100 lb" rated picture hanging wire is easy to find. <S> As is 200 if you want more safety factor... <A> Since the answer has to take into consideration that the two hangers are not level, you're stuck with one solution: hang it like a picture. <S> Go to your home store and get some stainless steel picture hanging wire rated for 50 to 100 pounds. <S> Make a strong loop around one end and hook it into one of the hangers. <S> Do the same to the other hanger <S> so there's not much slack in the wire. <S> Add two wires if it will help you sleep at night. <S> Then screw a 1-1/4" lag screw and washer into the center of that 2x4 stud you like so much. <S> Leave just enough space between the washer and the wall to slide the wire behind. <S> Lift the mirror and slide it around until you hook the wire behind the washer. <A> Cut a piece of steel bar / tube that is thin enough to fit between the back of the glass and the front of the hangers and will reach between the two welded brackets. <S> The bar needs to be strong enough to support the mirror at it's ends without significant bending so it might need to be wide. <S> Drill and tap this <S> so you can fix it to the hangers such that it can't move. <S> Just to be clear, the bar is to sit inside the thickness of the frame of the mirror between the front of the welded hooks and the back of the glass. <S> Attach to the mirror and find the point at which the whole assembly hangs vertically. <S> Use this chain or wire on a suitable hook or bolt screwed into the stud. <S> It gives you a little wiggle room in case <S> you didn't get the position it hangs vertically quite right. <S> If the concern of the manufacturer is that wire between the two welded hangers will distort the frame by pulling the sides together, this stops it happening.
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Remove from the mirror and attach a length of suitable chain or wire to the bar so it bridges this centre point on the bar by maybe an inch either way.
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What type of fuse should I use for my GFCI kitchen receptacle? I have a countertop 15 amp GFCI receptacle in my kitchen and I would like to replace the fuse for it. It's currently on a time-delay 30 amp fuse (it's a cartridge/capsule style fuse), which is too much, since the wire going to the receptacle is 12 gauge aluminum (which as far as I know is rated for max 15 amps). My question is, should I use a time-delay fuse or a fast acting fuse for this receptacle? I've read that time-delay fuses are for appliances which may have large electric motors, but I'm not sure what's considered large in this context. The outlet will connect things like a toaster, kettle, blender, slow cooker, microwave, etc. This receptacle is the only one on this circuit. <Q> Yes, use 15A time delay, the short inrush of motors will not damage the wire. <S> In the US even circuit breakers operate on a time delay, they call it "inverse-time", which really means the same thing. <A> Use a standard 15 Amp fuse. <S> You said the wire is #12 AL. <S> That's good for 15 amps. <S> Read and pay attention to Harper's comment. <A> You are correct about 15A for #12 aluminum. <S> While some of the current-capacity rules in 310.15 can be complicated, NEC 240.4 wipes them out and forces #12 aluminum to 15A. <S> Copper lugs/screws/terminations are intolerant of aluminum wire. <S> In the rush to aluminum in the 1960s, Underwriter's Laboratories hastily approved the AL-CU rating, which required only minor changes to existing copper-only designs. <S> This caused a spate of house fires, resulting in the "Revised" CO-ALR spec. <S> You see CO-ALR receps are quite different. <S> Breakers get a separate rating system; their Cu-Al mark is OK. <S> While fuses are not prohibited, the normal practice is to use circuit breakers. <S> Circuit breakers have a generous and slow trip curve.
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Not sure what type of fuse is used in your country, in the US a FRN15 fuse would have a similar 500%/10 second delay that a typical thermal magnetic breaker would trip. Remember when terminating aluminum wire, you must use CO-ALR rated receptacles.
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Oven tripping after aluminium foil touched element I was just using the grill part of our electric oven. It tripped the main fuse box. I think tin foil touched the heating element.Now every time we switch on the oven...it trips the whole house.Where do we look for the short circuit?Which part needs repairing? It's a hotpoint Aniston. There are so many coloured wires i dont know where to begin <Q> Examine the area <S> the foil was contacting the element and you might find a small hole (or possibly a large one) <S> the heater outer core is not energized but if it cannot radiate the heat. <S> the shield cracks and or melts <S> and then the insulation is damaged allowing the inner hot (both electrically and physically) to short to the shield. <S> Make sure to turn the breaker off and tag it out <S> so no one turns it on while you are working on it. <S> Remove the damaged heater and insulate the ends of the wire with tape (then the stove top could be used until the new heating element arrives. <A> You're in Europe. <S> Your house has a "Whole house RCD". <S> It detects current flow between places electricity should go, and <S> places electricity should not. <S> (aka "residual current" or a "ground fault". <S> The RCD is tripping because a small amount of current is leaking from the heating element (presumably through the tinfoil) to the chassis of the oven. <S> The oven's safety earthing is doing its job. <S> The heating element is not; it should be insulated by ceramic material, which I gather has spalled off over the years. <S> So, in the short term, you can fix this by removing the rest of the aluminum foil. <S> However, that heating element desperately needs to be replaced. <S> Having tinfoil touch it should not matter. <S> In the meantime, the RCD will continue to protect the oven from starting a fire. <S> As far as protecting you from getting shocked, not quite as much; that RCD trips on 30 milliamps, and that's enough to stun and rarely kill. <S> Human-rated RCDs trip at 6 milliamps. <A> It is very unlikely the aluminum foil could have any affect on the Nichrome ( or equal <S> ) alloy. <S> The sheath and internal wire <S> some how touched ; the sheath is grounded and has ( should have ) no voltage. <S> The elements normally have a white powder ( magnesium oxide ) to keep the central wire from touching the sheath <S> but it can happen. <S> The heating element needs to be replaced . <S> A possible problem is that the control mechanism may also be damaged. <S> I had this problem once and it was cheaper to replace the stove than the control and element.
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The heat rod it self was probably damaged by overheating and it probably needs to be replaced. It is likely a coincidence and not caused by the aluminum foil .
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Why aren't AFCI breakers required for bathrooms/lavatories? Why doesn't NEC require AFCI breakers for bathrooms/lavatories? Is there a good reason NOT to install AFCI protection on a 15A/20A 120V bathroom outlet? (I.e., use GFCI only.) <Q> We're reading tea leaves here to guess at NFPA's intent. <S> NFPA writes the "model electrical code" which they offer for anyone in the world to adopt as their law. <S> But politically, NFPA has been having a big problem. <S> Normally NEC changes are fairly trivial in cost: Pull a neutral wire on switch loops, gosh, you're using the /3 <S> Romex instead of the /2. <S> It's maybe $3 per house. <S> Those increments have been getting bigger, as they've started so snake GFCIs and AFCIs in more and more places. <S> Mind you, AFCIs started out as a solution for electric blankets starting fires in bedding. <S> However, they discovered that in actuality, AFCIs were catching arc faults caused by backstab connections . <S> Backstabs are a builder favorite (jab a wire in a hole and you're done, instead of having to form a shepherd's hook and torque to spec, times say 200 connections in a typical house). <S> Builders don't want to quit backstabs. <S> (if they fail after closing, who cares?) <S> Well, in 2014, NFPA was hellbound and determined to require AFCI or GFCI breakers on darn near everything . <S> And a lot of people were thinking "Why not just outlaw backstabs, then?" <S> Anyway, NEC 2014 was adding six hundred bucks to the cost of a house , which was actually going to have a material effect on real estate prices. <S> Builders were saying "Oh hell no", and telling their Congresspeople to say "Oh hell no". <S> And NFPA had to lobby right back , and influence public opinion . <S> So states adopted NEC 2014 very reluctantly (seven still haven't), and some states still adopted it with some AFCI/GFCI requirements left out. <S> Anyway, requiring both AFCI and GFCI on a circuit was politically "a bridge too far". <A> NEC doesn't require AFCI because it does require GFCI, and they are not the same. <S> GFCI outlets protect against electrical shock and this is very important around water. <S> AFCI protects against electrical arcs that come from damaged cords and bad connections. <S> Arcing is super hot, and is responsible for electrical fires. <A> Maybe because arc faults are not more dangerous in those places then in other rooms of a building. <S> The probability of arc faults to go undetected may be even lower in bathrooms, since normally all electric appliances and devices are only switched on if that room is occupied. <S> An arc could be detected by smell, flickering or fume. <S> A fridgerator, A/C unit, laptops and other devices are often running in rooms without a person being present all the time. <S> In that case, an AFCI protection is as indicated as in any other room. <S> In theory, the probability for an arc to occur increases with the water in the air, but a room's air without any water outlet could have a high moisture level as well, dependent on location and weather. <S> Otherwise, a GFCI is very important in rooms with water and electric outlets, independent on local codes.
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A combination protection device could be installed in the bathroom, but some people say the combo's don't work quite as well as single purpose GFCI, and arcing fires are generally not a risk in a room filled with tile and other hard surfaces. No, assuming there is a GFCI and a correct earthing.
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Can I use a 2-wire NM cable staple on 3-wire cable? I have a package of Gardner 1/2 inch staples and the package shows that they are good for 2-wire, see below: I am running some 14/3 wire (flat) wire for AC hardwired smoke detectors but these staples are all I have on hand. I've stapled the 14/3 using these and the 1/2 inch is just enough to fit the wire without pinching it. I can even slide the wire back and forth fairly easily. FWIW, I read the package after stapling about 100 feet of wire. See below for an example: Is it necessary to use 3/4 inch staples instead? What is the hazard associated with using the 1/2 inch staples? I'm not sure how much copper expands when heated but I can't imagine that it would outgrow the 1/2 inch. Is it more of an issue that people tend to pinch and/or impale the wire while hammering so the 3/4 inch is an attempt to reduce errors? I can definitely see the need for using 3/4 inch for 12/3 wire but I haven't run any. My walls are currently wide open so if I should be using the 3/4 inch staples then right now would be the best time for me to make things "right". Additionally, can I use the 3/4 inch staples for 2-wire? I'd rather simplify the contents of my electrical bag. <Q> The problem is that the staples are UL listed for the wire sizes shown on the package. <S> Technically, you'd need the 3/4" staples. <A> I've used them myself, and I would be careful trying to cram a /3 <S> into a staple for a /2 . <S> The danger there is your pinching or clipping the outer sheath of the cable (or, worse, accidentally having a nail go through the cable). <S> The inverse isn't true, however. <S> I've used /3 <S> staples on /2 <S> wire without issue. <S> The main thing is they want the wire secured to the stud. <S> Even the appropriate size staple will allow smaller cables (like 14/2) to move some. <S> This answer quotes NEC and mentions nothing about size vs cable. <S> Since these packages aren't terribly expensive (about $3 for 50 that fit /3 ) <S> I would buy the ones that fit and avoid any questions later. <S> Used properly, these are safe. <A> If the cable, and its casing fit into the 1/2 inch staples, and by you even mentioning that you can pull them through is definitely ok. <S> I would go so far as to say, that if you can easily pull the wiring through, its too loose, generally speaking, when fixing external cables to batons / trellises, or wooden beams / struts etc, the wire should fit snug, so you can keep the cabling as taught as possible between staples, you should be able to pull through slack or create a little through the last staple only at any point during the installation. <S> Doing some research and based on same practice here in South Africa, the sizes on the packages, are for ease of use in this case, not for regulation sizes, i.e. Regulation states that wiring should be stapled, and preferably not with wire only / steel only staples. <S> It however does not dictate what size staples must be used for what size / type of wire. <S> IMHO, if you're doing a decent job, i.e. not leaving wiring hanging all over, with loose loops here and there (excluding for future plug points etc) <S> then there's no need to worry about whether or not the ones you are using are the right thing for the job. <S> Once again, as far as the 2 core wiring is concerned, I would go by the same as above. <S> If its doing the job it was intended for, i.e. fixing the wiring to the wood, and keeping it tightly in place, then it should be ok. <S> I only say this, because in this case, the staple to wire sizes are not regulated. <S> This is after all, electric were talking about. <S> Hope this helps, and good luck with the rest of it. <A> In the NEC cable assemblies, like NM or MC cable, the description only describes the current carrying conductors although the additional ground wire is present. <S> (This is not true for "cords".) <S> As an example as this applies to product marketing look at this graphic from Southwire , the image at the top for a ceiling fan says 12/3, you can see the picture has 4 wires. <S> While the image at the bottom for wall switch and receptacle says 12/2, and you can see three wires. <A> DON'T drywall until you replace that wire with 14/3 red, black, white and bare(uninsulated)ground. <S> The 14/3 you have is insulated ground according to what I see online. <S> Fire alarms require black(a/c 120volt live,white neutral and red for the signal wire between smoke detectors so if one detects smoke they ALL GO OFF.I'm a Canadian electrician so if this is incorrect I will apologize in advance, but I really think you should check with a local electrician about this.
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Your picture looks like 14/2 NM cable (or pre-2001 12/2), if that is what you have then as indicated on the package should work fine. If your cable is actually 4 wire 14/3 cable the staple package bears a UL label, listing is only valid when installed as approved, and would not be acceptable to NEC standards. It comes down to what you are comfortable with, as long as the job is being done property.
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Can a handrail with a baluster channel be used with wall brackets? Can the type of handrail shown in the photo be mounted onto a wall using brackets for use in a stairwell? As you can see it has a groove cut out of the bottom. <Q> Yes, that is a Type 1 handrail and is legal if: 1) it’s at least 1 1/4” in diameter and not more than 2”, 2) <S> if it’s not circular, (which yours is not) it must have a perimeter of at least 4” and not more than 6 1/4” and a cross section dimension of 2 1/4”. <S> (See ICC R311.7.7.1) <S> Type 2 handrails are larger (like made from 2x6 trim) but must have finger grips. <S> (See ICC R311.7.7.3.2) <S> Make sure there is 1 1/2” clear between the handrail and wall. <S> Make sure the handrail “returns” to the wall or extends to the ground or post. <S> That means you need to miter the handrail at a 90 degree angle so it fits tight to the wall. <S> Handrails are not required on stairs with 3 risers or less. <S> Mount the top of handrail between 34” and 38” above nosing of tread. <A> Maybe, but it is not a good choice. <S> Like Kris' comment said, this is made for the top of spindles. <S> It will look funny IMO. <S> You may need to notch the inside to accommodate the wall bracket (depends on the exact wall bracket that you use. <S> Since the vertical dimension is fairly thin, it will be less rigid than expected. <S> You could compensate by using more wall brackets than normal. <S> If I really wanted to use this profile, I would put a steel bar in the groove running the entire length if possible, or if necessary, use several with the breaks near the brackets. <S> There may be building codes that I am not aware of. <S> Common sense says that a strong man should not be able to pull it off the wall. <A> Do a search online for "handrail wall brackets <S> " You will see the part that attaches to the handrail is basically the same on every style bracket. <S> The plow or plough is for a fillet piece that is cut between the square top balusters and should come with the handrail, at least any plowed rail I bought, it came with it. <S> I have had to add the fillet to a few rails to get past some details on jobs. <S> You should have no problem finding the same rail that is not plowed, try that first, it will look better.
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The hand rail you chose will work with practically any handrail wall brackets on the market, if you choose to use that type.
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Twisting 6 feet of solid 14 gauge wire? I need to twist nicely a 6-foot pair of insulated solid electrical wire. It can be 14 gauge or slightly thinner. The insulation can be nylon or PVC. Two wires must be at 90 degrees to each other while being twisted. I’ve tried this by hand, but the result is inconsistent. Is there a tool or technique I could use? <Q> Try an electric drill. <S> As the wires twist and the cable shortens, you'll have to walk forward to where the wires are anchored. <S> But I'm not sure if this would work with your "90 degrees to each other" requirement. <A> Expanding on @ecnerwal 's answer This sounds like a rope-making jig, that uses one winder per strand. <S> Navies use to make their own mooring and rigging ropes using machines like this sometimes with a "pingpong bat" paddle to help set the tension in the layup. <S> I think you could achieve your goal using two lengths of wire, perhaps 50% longer than the final length <S> you think you require. <S> Onecordless drill per wire for twisting, a helper to press both triggers, and a clamp for the far end. <S> You would use some form of paddle to keep the twists apart until sufficient tension is reached, where you slowly move the paddle towards the drills. <S> This twist will lessen the twist in the remaining sections of wire, so the drills have to add more twists. <S> Perhaps practice with anything you have around the home <S> already - even long strips of plastic would work as test ropes. <S> Have you considered winding an earth wire into your "power-rope" ? <S> What about cooling? <S> twisted wires will get hotter than the same wire untwisted. <S> Stranded vs Solid core wire - the solid will take the twist better but will be much harder to work with. <A> The 90 degree requirement would be most easily achieved by cutting two slots in a board at 90 degrees that allow a slip-fit of the wire, with the intersection point being just off the edge of the board, then screwing another board to it to hold the wires in place. <S> Given your budget, you'd then be attaching a drill (or a brace/hand crank/speed wrench) and walking away from the board, maintaining tension while twisting. <S> For precision, you might mount it on a wire wrapping lathe carriage to ensure even feed, but not on your budget.
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Put the two ends of the wire into the drill chuck; fasten the other ends of the wires to something; step back until the wires are taut, then turn on the drill.
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Replacing Shut Off Valve I changed out our kitchen faucet over the weekend and after getting everything hooked up, I'm only getting hot water. Our cold water valve's handle broke off a while back so I just use the screw to open and close the valve. I've unscrewed it all the way and even used pliers to turn the white part but I'm still not getting anything. I'm guessing it's the valve that needs replaced but I'm not sure what to do. Do I just unscrew the valve? Does it screw out of the white cap with text on it or is that part of the valve? I don't ever do projects like this so sorry if I'm not describing it very well. <Q> Buy a piggy back valve, you screw it into the existing valve and use it instead of the original. <S> As zelinka mentioned the existing valve is done in expansion pex and the tools needed to put a new one on are close to $600. <S> Something like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-1-4-in-O-D-Compression-Chrome-Plated-Brass-Quarter-Turn-Straight-Stop-Valve-23337-0000LF/202721912 <A> Before doing any of this you would need to make sure the water is off, either by turning off the water to the entire house, or by turning off the water to that faucet. <S> The easiest way to fix the broken valve would be to get a new stop valve, but that looks like it was plumbed using expansion pex of some sort, which require specialized tools to use, and even if you put a new expansion valve on you would still need to cut the old one off. <S> That being noted, you can use a push fit stop valve if desired, and that would also work, but would require cutting off the old valve. <S> The other option is to try and re-build the valve you have. <S> This is done by unscrewing the nut on the valve and replacing the interior components of the valve. <A> Thank you so much for everyone’s input. <S> I was able to cut the PEX and put a SharkBite push valve on and were in business.
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As long as you can get the existing valve fully open you can leave it in place. You could probably do a sharkbite fitting on the pipe if you cut it below the expansion ring.
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Wiring 240v where 12/2 wire using a 20 amp circuit breaker is present I have a 20 amp breaker that is providing juice to the new outlets I installed in my basement. I would like to put a space heater in the three rooms. The space heater allows for (1000/1500/1600W, 120/208/240V) but I am concerned that 1000/120v will not be enough. Will I have to run separate wire for 240 or can I change out the circuit breaker with a 220? Will that impact what I can use with all of the outlets that are currently wired to the 20 amp breaker? <Q> You would need to change out all the receptacles from NEMA 5-20 or 5-15 (125V) to NEMA 6-20 or 6-15 (250V) - it is a gigantic violation and hazard to supply 240V on a 120V outlet. <A> First, a habitable space requires a certain number of 120V receptacles that are mandatory. <S> That is because most appliances come with 6' cords. <S> Whatever else you do, you cannot eliminate these mandatory receptacles and they must remain 120V. <S> If you change voltage, you must change ALL the receptacles <S> You are familiar with the standard socket that's everywhere. <S> You must not use this socket for 240V. Not once, not ever . <S> However there is another socket you use instead, with different keying so you can't plug the wrong thing into it. <S> Therefore it is not a productive thing to do; you're better off adding a separate 240V circuit on a separate cable. <S> Cables contain multiple wires inside a single sheath. <S> Only 240V loads can be on 240V circuits <S> If you plug a 120V appliance into 240V, most likely you will get magic smoke. <S> However if you install the correct receptacles on the correct voltages, that won't be anything you need to worry about. <S> There is no way for a 240V (only) circuit to support 120V loads. <S> There is a hybrid circuit called a multi-wire branch circuit , but it's a specialty thing that requires a lot of care to install correctly. <S> It should not be attempted except by the most experienced DIYers, and recent rules about GFCI and AFCI make it problematic. <A> A bathroom needs a dedicated circuit so you will need some new wiring. <S> I would want a 50 amp sub to provide power for the bathroom, receptacles / lights and heat. <S> You could get by with less <S> but when putting a sub As you have found not having enough to do what you want is a bummer. <S> If your panel is full pull the 20 amp double pole and get a 50.6-4 wire will be need and a sub panel. <S> You can get a panel of a larger size and it can be a main lug only but needs to be 50 amp or larger. <S> The ground bus must be isolated from the neutral and most main lug panels come this way, if you get a panel with a breaker the bonding screw or jumper if installed will need to be removed. <S> This is what I would suggest and that allows for a few additional circuits in the future. <S> Edited <S> I don’t know where I came up with bathroom, may have mixes 2 questions. <S> If using electric heat I would suggest cadet built in electric heat. <S> These are inexpensive and will last longer than most space heaters, I think Harper would agree with that. <A> The simple answer is if your cable is 12/2 or 14/2 (black, white, and a ground) you can't power 120v and 240v from the same wires. <S> If you have 12/3 or 14/3 (black, red, white, and a ground) you could make it work. <S> To be able to operate 120v and 240v on the same "multiwire branch circuit" you need 4 wires, which is two opposing 120v hot wires, a neutral, and a ground. <S> The two opposing 120v wires would provide the 240v for the heater, and either of those hots (or each hot separately) could be used with the neutral to provide 120v.
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Converting the existing circuit to 240V would leave you without any 120V receptacles at all. As such, running a new dedicated wire for the heater (if even needed) would appear to make the most sense, as you probably don't have many things with 240V plugs to plug in. Other than the keying, it looks and installs like a normal socket. The rules vary by space, but typically you need a receptacle within 6 feet of any point along a wall (with the hypothetical 6' cord following the wall). Possibly quite a lot of it. It's a thing you should not do. I would suggest installing a sub panel (depending on the location and fill of your existing panel).
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Do tool cross-manufacturer battery adapters work without damaging battery or tool? I'm talking about something like this which allows you to use a Dewalt battery in a Makita tool. Since this is just a question of connecting pins and so on, and no change of current or voltage is taking place, this should logically be ok as long as the battery is the same voltage as the one made by the same manufacturer as the tool, right? <Q> Logically, you're correct, but practically, you might run into problems. <S> For the purposes of this answer, I'm assuming you're only crossing lithium ion batteries from different manufacturers. <S> (Crossing battery chemistries is even more fraught.) <S> Lithium ion batteries don't like being run down to an extremely low voltage. <S> (This varies subtly by chemistry, so <S> I'll suggest you look up your specifics. <S> You're in the ballpark of 3.2v per cell, which will multiply out to whatever number of cells is in series in the battery.) <S> If you run them "dry", they get damaged internally, and either won't recharge or might (in extreme cases) catch fire. <S> You really don't want lithium ion fires in your life. <S> (Google "Hydrogen fluoride".) <S> So power tool manufacturers have built a deliberate cutoff circuit in to prevent overdischarge and protect the battery. <S> You'd have to know whether that cutoff circuitry is in the tool or the battery. <S> Crossing manufacturers might leave you without a cutoff circuit. <S> (And I frankly doubt that any cheap adapter has the smarts to have a cutoff, though I could be wrong.) <S> If you absolutely had to do this, you need to figure out what the cutoff voltage is for your particular battery and be sure that you don't overdischarge your battery. <S> (You need a voltmeter of some description for this.) <S> You also need to use the manufacturer's charger with their battery. <S> (Even if the adapter works on the charger... just don't!) <A> No, it's a lot more complicated than that. <S> An 18V pack might be NiCd, NiMH, Li-Ion, Li-Po or other technology. <S> All of them charge and discharge differently, and the safety circuits may be different. <S> It's not a matter of "put only Apple brand accessories on your Mac"... <S> it's a matter of electrical compatibility. <S> If your oh-so-clever adapter manages to put a lithium battery on a NiMH charger, you could have yourself a nice fire. <A> A battery is container for power ( DC electricity ). <S> ( given that the two tools are of the same voltage I.E. <S> a 20v dewalt vs a 20v craftsman ) <S> The reason being they want your battery money to go to them and not to the competition. <S> In theory adapters should work ( i have not used any ) as long as the voltages are the same and they are of sufficient quality. <S> This a simplistic explanation, i am sure there are others more knowledgeable or verbose who may like to chime in. <S> ( I am not a know-it-all, i just play one on the internet.)
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The only difference between the different manufacturers products is the connection interface that allows the DC current to be transferred from the battery to the tool.
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Locating CAT3 wire with Transmitter and Receiver We are looking to convert the phone lines in our house over to network connections. The house is wired with CAT3 for both phone and DSL. The problem we are faced with is locating the end of the wire where it terminates at the patch panel. When I connect a transmitter to one of the phone jacks and use the receiver to locate the end of the wire, the receiver will beep on more than one wire. From my understanding, it should only beep on the one wire that has the transmitter connected to the end. Can anyone explain what I’m doing wrong? Thank you. <Q> Well, if they are wired as for phone wiring still, they would all be tied together. <S> If you have undone that wiring already, they may be having "cross talk" from the RF signal getting picked up by adjacent wires - CAT3 is not as good at rejecting this as CAT5, 6 or 7. <S> You might be able to note a change in volume of the "beep" in that case, but really, if you are not hunting for wires behind the wall, you're probably using the wrong tool. <S> I'd pull out either a pair tester (since I own a couple, as a "network guy" - they are pretty cheap) and plug it in, where you will either see lights or not, depending on a DC connection that's not subject to crosstalk... ... <S> Or else grab a simple meter (volt or ohm) and either attach a 9V battery to a certain pair and look for voltage, or short a certain pair and look for low-ohms (or continuity) <S> - this might require hacking up a patch cable to make the connections. <S> Here's a simple, cheap pair tester (under $10 - similar to what I have but <S> mine are too old to have examples for sale now - no affiliation) <S> You can find things with the same name that cost a lot more, as they add fancier functions you don't need for the simple tests. <A> Thank you, everyone, for the helpful advice. <S> Here is how I was able to find the correct wire: <S> I replaced the RJ11 wall connector with an RJ45 connector. <S> Then connected the transmitter to the RJ45 connector and used my receiver to locate the correct wire. <S> Again, I was getting beeps on multiple CAT3 wires. <S> So I pulled aside the CAT3 wires that tested positive. <S> Then individually tested all 8 wires of the twisted pairs until I found one that tested positive for all 8 wires. <S> This might not have been the most conventional way to resolve the problem but it worked for me. <A> You cannot send a signal down one wire. <S> You need a return path. <S> So, the transmitter should be connecting to two conductors. <S> I don't know what the transmitter you are using is like. <S> I think I would just step back and go for simple connectivity. <S> It is possible that the cable has a short introduced due to damage somewhere along the cable path. <S> You can use the same test (ohmmeter) to try to identify that when you are not shorting out the phone end. <S> Of course, a RF-only short may not appear on a ohmmeter at DC. <S> You would need to use a TDR device to look for it. <S> Plus, that would allow you to pin-point the location.
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Short two pins together on the phone end and then test all the patch panel ends for that short via an ohmmeter or continuity checker.
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Moving a circuit from one panel too another I have 4 sub panels in my home and I want to move two 20amp breakers from one into another. I want to run #12 Romex from the one panel too the other and use the original panel and just splice each circuit. My question if the neutral stays in the original box can I just move the hot leg <Q> The underlying principle is currents must be equal in each cable or conduit . <S> If currents are equal, each wire kicks a large electro-magnetic field (EMF), but the various wires are equal and opposite, so the magnetic fields cancel each other out. <S> Since currents are not equal, large electro-magnetic fields are kicked up. <S> This will cause eddy current heating, and vibration -> fatigue failure on wires. <S> Further, neutrals do not have circuit breakers . <S> If you return current from a different path, you break that protection, and now the oversubscribed neutral can overload - and no breaker will care. <A> No you cannot just move the hot. <S> You must move the hot with the neutral. <S> The ground needs to come from the same panel if there is one. <S> You can splice in the panel and jump to the original panel that would be ok. <A> NEC 303.3(B) Conductors of the Same Circuit <S> All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment grounding conductors... <S> shall be contained within the same raceway...cable.. <S> The grounded circuit conductor is the neutral.
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This is safe, because neutral only handles current for its partner hot wire(s), so they handle the same current and the "hot" breaker protects the neutral. You MUST move both the hot and neutral together! You can't have a situation where current flows on the hot wire from panel 4 to panel 2, but neutral just ends at panel 2 and takes a different route back to the panel (creating an imbalance in that cable too).
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How should I deal with lumber size differences when replacing floor joists? I am in the process of replacing 4 floor joists and the new 2x10s are 1/4" taller than what was previously there. I understand that as the lumber dries out it will shrink but how do i handle the 1/4" difference to have a level subfloor and not crack the tile i put on top. <Q> In my experiences there in no way to control how much a given piece of wood shrinks, that is if it has enough moisture content (MC) to shrink. <S> If you could get it tested with a moisture meter for MC <S> and it is around 6-8% preferably less, you can cut the joist to size for it will not shrink anymore. <S> If the MC is 10% or more it will shrink and it will take a few weeks to get it to loose enough MC to not crack your tile. <S> If you have kind of time to install the joists and wait for them to shrink in place in a heated environment, all the better. <S> If you don't have that kind of time, then you will be better off purchasing LVL or other engineered lumber that does not move that much at all, unless it is really saturated. <A> Unfortunately when dealing with replacing old lumber (or really any lumber with mismatched dimensions) you may have to buy kiln-dried new lumber and rip it to match the old dimensions. <A> Lumber has been cut differently over time. <S> Just cut out a notch where the joist sits on the sill plate and center beam. <S> If your lumber was too small, you would shim it, notching is just the opposite. <S> Once your subfloor is screwed or nailed with ring-shank nails(and glued to prevent squeaking) to the joist, there is little chance that there will be shrinking in a direction that causes any problems. <S> Make sure you use quality flexible mastic under the tile and you will be fine. <S> I renovated an old house that had a variety of different thickness and width boards. <S> You just notch and shim as much as you need to.
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I doubt your lumber will shrink 1/4" in width; it might shrink that much in length, but that won't affect your floor.
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Why did water come up through my basement drain instead of out the sump? I recently moved into a home in Illinois that has a basement. I’m coming from Arizona and have never had a basement or actually knew about sump pumps until I started searching for a home. Me and my wife were out of town a few weeks ago and there was some heavy rain and some snow melting as well and water must have backed up because there was water in my basement. No one could have been in my house to run any water or flush any toilets while we were out. I identified it coming from a floor drain in the laundry room and could see the water pattern go out. It did not seep in from the walls because they were dry and there was still dust on the walls. The plumber said my drain out pipe must be backed up and he rodded it from the outside. My question is if the water came from the outside into the drain why didn’t it go into the basin of the sump pump and it should have pumped out to my backyard? The area around my sump pump was dry so I know water didn’t go into the basin and overflow. If anyone could explain this to me because I feel like I’m missing something or not completely understand how this whole system is suppose to work. <Q> In some locations you cannot connect the sewer to the sump system, I understand this is not the discharge but sewage can be in that drain and pumping it outside could Create a health hazard. <S> I have installed back flow preventers in the past to keep back pressure from entering, these do have there own problems but stop the city system from filling your basement with other peoples waste. <A> It seems that your floor drain and your sump pump are not connected which is often the case due to building codes. <S> The sump pit is designed so that any water that gets next to the foundation or under the floor (presumably concrete) will flow into the pit and collect until there is enough to trigger the pump switch which will then lift the water and expel it into a drain. <S> These are needed because the basement is often BELOW the grade of the drain and will not drain using gravity alone. <S> Your floor drain, however, is a mystery here since we don't know where it goes. <S> First, you want to identify WHERE the floor drain discharge is located and see if you can remedy the problem there. <S> Perhaps it drains to a nearby ditch and that ditch has become clogged with debris. <S> Perhaps it drains to the sewer and some obstruction has blocked the flow there. <S> Failing that you might install a backflow valve to prevent any outside water from backup up into the basement. <S> As far as the sump, it sounds like there is not really an issue there although regular testing is always a good idea so that you are aware and can fix any problems before the need arises and another basement flooding situation occurs. <A> As an addition to what Ed Beal stated, I'd surmise that your neighborhood has significant intermingling of storm water with the sanitary sewer. <S> Hopefully not sewage into the storm sewer but the other way: storm water put into the sanitary sewer. <S> This is common in older neighborhoods. <S> It was also allowable in a lot of neighborhoods to run everything to the sanitary up until sometime in the 20th century. <S> In my current home, a previous owner had connected the sump pump outlet to the sanitary sewer. <S> I know it's not the only home in the area that has/had a setup like that. <S> It was somewhat understandable because the (literal) clay tile system was completely defunct. <S> When there's a heavy rain and/or melt, this results in the sanitary sewer backing up into homes. <S> This is where Ed Beal's suggestion comes in. <S> I had to have new drainage put in in order to run the sump properly. <S> The sump pump connection actually caused issues when the sewer backed up because the sump water had no where to go but up the sanitary vent stack. <S> This kind of problem is also a major cause for sewage discharge into bodies of water that are sometimes used to supply drinking water. <S> It's a big issue that we should all care about.
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In your case, however, is sounds like the floor drain is connected to a separate drain going who-knows-where and at the discharge point it's possible for water to backup and cause a backflow into your basement. If your home has some configuration like this, you should correct it and it should help somewhat.
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How to attach to electrical subpanel? So I'm having some problems planning the last step of my electric run to my detached garage subpanel. I'm using 2 inch pvc buried with individual 1 gauge aluminum conductors (and a 2 gauge ground). The garage was just built, so open walls and such. I'd kinda like to mount the subpanel between the studs and have all wiring be behind the wall. My understanding though is that since I'm using individual conductors, they have to be in an approved raceway, like PVC. 90 degree pvc bends are very large. Each one is about a foot. I'm not sure what my options are. My state uses 2014 NEC. I was thinking: Two LB conduit body boxes, one on each side of wall to make kind of a U? 2" ones are pretty massive so I may need to downsize to 1.5". Two 45 degree angles may work, but the hole would be difficult for me to drill at an angle, or kinda large (i.e. out of the ground, 45 into structure, 45 on other side to straighten it out into subpanel). I've thought about switching to a SER cable near the end, but I'm not sure how to properly join large gauge aluminum connectors. Would I be able to switch it in a conduit body piece above ground outside the structure? <Q> I'd do (and have done) <S> Ed's suggestion of up the wall a then LB (or LR, LL) straight into the back of the box. <S> It works, no fuss, no muss. <S> If you want to come in lower for some reason, I'd stay with PVC on the exterior but transition to a metallic product (EMT, IMC, RMC) once in out of the weather. <S> Among other things, a lot more compact than their PVC friends for the same "size product" A handy thing I've only just now seen in PVC (but was familiar with from metal) is a "pulling elbow. <S> " Oddly called an "access elbow" for some reason in PVC? <S> Those are a lot more compact than an LB. <S> Making some assumptions about your wire insulation, I also see that your conduit fill % is quite low (generally good for pulling) but that does mean you could switch to a smaller size for the presumably short section inside the building without violating 40% fill. <S> 1-1/4 EMT or PVC-40 would appear to work (with the assumptions I'm making, basically XHHW insulation) <S> - you need PVC 80 where subject to physical damage, but if you are already in 2" outside that's fine if the inside is protected by being in the wall. <A> Is that correct? <S> Use an LB or other right-angle conduit body to connect from the outdoor conduit through the wall into the enclosure. <S> From the enclosure up to the panel you could install a conduit or a cable. <S> You could splice in a suitably sized NEMA 1 enclosure, though. <S> Or you may be able to use conductors that are suitable for the entire indoor and outdoor run -- in this case the enclosure would be merely a pull box that integrates much more nicely in the finished wall (as compared to using a second LB body). <A> The simplest way is to come up to an outside wall, then mount the panel on the inside wall on the other side. <S> That way you come up the wall, go through an LB conduit body, and into the back of the panel. <S> You cannot splice inside a conduit body. <S> Or to be more precise, you can, <S> but then you have to satisfy the cubic-inch and bending-radius requirements of a junction box, so while the catalog may call it a conduit body, the rules of junction boxes apply to it.
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You could mount a NEMA type 1 enclosure inside the wall down low. The question seems to imply a desire to keep the outdoor conduit as low to the ground as possible. Conductors can't be spliced in a conduit body because bodies aren't sized large enough to allow that (fill rules).
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Risk of Using 3 amp fuse for 2.5 amp plug I have a small portable fan that, for reasons beyond my understanding, has a fuse inside of the plug. The fan stopped working because the fuse broke. At the store, I couldn’t find a fuse nearly as tiny as the one in the plug, but a colleague suggested I look in my Christmas lights because they often have the same size fuse in those plugs. Surely enough, I found the size fuse as a spare in a box of unused Christmas lights. The only difference is the fuse is labeled as 3 amps, and the plug of the fan has this text on it: So, I’m just curious what danger lies in using a 3 amp fuse here. Could the fan be damaged? Could the house burn down? Something else? <Q> You should instead consider looking at a distributor that you can access online to gain access to a much larger selection. <S> If I am not mistaken you are looking for a micro fuse that measures 3.6x10mm in size. <S> You can find sets of fuses rated at 2.5A 125V or even 250V. Picture Source <A> Disclaimer: <S> I am a visitor here from Electrical Engineering SE. <S> Whether that risk is significant can vary greatly depending on the particular situation. <S> Take the following answer with the greatest of precaution. <S> In higher powered or more critical situations, one would be wise to be very careful about safety concerns. <S> In this situation, 3 Amps of current would not likely even come close to pushing the limits of the branch circuit to which the item is connected before the 3 Amp fuse blows. <S> If the offset in ratings between the two different valued fuses were larger, then there might be some room for concern, but one has to consider that fuses are not an exact science. <S> In their simplest form, their tolerances can vary greatly. <S> According to the manufacturer "Littelfuse" on page 4 section 1 in <S> this PDF , just a change in temperature alone can change the rating of the fuse by 25%. <S> Furthermore, section 3 on the same page actually shows a situation where a circuit that is intended to blow a fuse at 2.25 Amps, actually should use a 3 Amp fuse. <S> NORMAL OPERATING CURRENT: The current rating of a fuse is typically derated 25% for operation at 25ºC to avoid nuisance blowing. <S> In view of this, the 2.5 Amp specification being 16% less than the 3 Amp fuse you would like to use seems insignificant. <S> Based upon the above-linked PDF, the original 2.5 Amp fuse could have passed over 3 Amps of current before it blew if the fuse were very cold. <A> You are taking the risk that your house could burn down, and that your insurance policy could be void because you knowingly caused the fire.
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I don't think the difference would cause any significant issue, as any hard failure would blow the 3 Amp fuse just as fast as it would a 2.5 Amp fuse, for most practical purposes. Exceeding recommended safety ratings always comes with some amount of risk. Fuse selection at a local hardware store is often limited to the types that are likely to be used by customers in the area.
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Can sewage smell penetrate indoors because of inadequate venting? I have a basement toilet that is connected to a 4" buried sewer pipe but its vent that goes three stories up to the roof is only 2". The toilet seems to have a permanent smell of urine which starts even very soon after I clean it with Ajax and before anyone has used it. I understand the toilet has its own P or S trapping module intended to prevent backflow of gases from the pipe but could it be that the vent inadequately forces air out and some of it is finding its way indoors through the 1-2 sec period of flushing? This is a hypothesis and I have no other explanation. My other toilets that are right next to a different, 4" vent stack don't smell and it has nothing to do with the cleaning or sanitation treatment. Moreover, I have a sewer access point (for snaking and cleanouts) above the toilet behind the wall and when I open the plug, it has the same smell as what collects inside the bowl. <Q> I would say NO, the vent is not the problem. <S> A more likely culprit is a bad wax seal. <S> I have found toilets with no water leakage and big gaps in the seal were someone tried to use silicone to seal the flange. <S> No leakage and constant sewer smell. <S> I pulled the toilet and was amazed. <S> Cleaned probably a full tube of calking (calking gun size) out installed <S> a .99$ was ring and the smell was gone. <S> Any residual smell may be from urine in the flooring and there are chemical treatments that can fix this. <S> Last if there is a floor drain it may be the cause of the smell, pour some water in the floor drain then add a cup of cooking oil <S> this will keep the water in the trap from evaporating. <S> A clear vent even in a 3 story would not cause the smell you describe. <A> Check little used sinks, tubs, showers, laundry tubs, etc. <S> Sometimes the “P-trap” will dry out (evaporate) and smell can come into the living space through the drain. <S> Pour a couple of cups of water down the drain to fill the “P-trap” and block any smells coming up through the drain. <A> At one point I had 4 boys and 2 girls in the house. <S> For some reason the bathroom the boys used always smelled like pee. <S> When the last one left and went to college, the odor stopped. <S> Someone may be missing the mark.
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Vents generally do not smell like just pee, based upon my plumbing experience.
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how to install 1 single pole and 1 2 pole GFCI breakers with common #12 neutral I have a 15 amp breaker to my pool light and a 20 amp 2 pole breaker to the pool pump both using a common #12 neutral. How do I wire GFCI breakers to replace existing breakers? Wires are underground and can not be changed/added. #12 wires are aluminum. <Q> I find it highly improbable that these circuits were wired with /4 <S> cable back in the age when people were using aluminum. <S> So I will proceed assuming that there is a 12AL/2 cable for the 240V-only pool pump, and a 12AL/2 cable for the pool light/recep. <S> 12 AWG Aluminum wire requires a 15A breaker. <S> Using a 20A breaker is out of the question. <S> This will be ample for lights/recep and a 1-horse 240V motor. <S> I would use a common, 120V, dual-mode AFCI+GFCI breaker on the 12AL/2 cable for the pool light/recep. <S> That's done and dusted; any GFCI receps on that circuit which are outside can be replaced with plain outlets and used indoors etc. <S> In fact they should be replaced with plain CO-ALR outlets; because most GFCI outlets do not support aluminum wire. <S> The reason to use AFCI is the aluminum wire. <S> Small gauge aluminum has a history of problems, but 90% of that is because of using inappropriate receptacles which are not rated for aluminum (or, hastily rated for aluminum with inadequate testing, e.g. "AL-CU" per the 1970s; the R in CO-ALR stands for "revised"). <S> The AFCI takes care of that. <S> A 240V, 2-pole GFCI breaker (about $80) goes on the other cable to the pool pump. <S> The breaker pigtail goes to the neutral bus, but the neutral terminal on the breaker is unused. <S> All aluminum connections should either land on CO-ALR receptacles or switches; or on Alumiconn (mini lug connectors). <S> If able, a CO-ALR recep makes two aluminum-copper splices and it's cheaper than an Alumiconn. <S> I'm not sure they make 220V receptacles in CO-ALR. <S> If the pool pump for any reason has tapped the neutral of the other circuit, you will need to remove that. <S> A normal pool pump does not need it. <S> If yours is a 120V pool pump, you'll need to rewire that other circuit as 120V instead of 220V, but I doubt that. <A> You will be unable to install and have work a GFCI with this non-standard and unsafe configuration. <S> If you fix the wiring, to meet code, you can install a GFCI on the 220 V circuit and a separate on one the 110 V circuit. <S> GFCIs work by looking at the sent current, and the return current through the neutral. <S> So they need their own neutral for each GFCI. <S> A 220V GFCI is a little more complex in that it matches current though L1 and L2, as well a neutral. <S> However a neutral is still required. <A> The business about sharing a neutral wire among those circuits is sketchy. <S> It's possible that the pump runs on 240 volts and so doesn't actually use the neutral at all, though. <S> As others have pointed out, there are likely some code violations embedded in the arrangement. <S> It sounds likely that replacing those two breakers with GFCIs could be unsuccessful because of the shared neutral. <S> There is another approach that would work, however. <S> Understand, though, that this does not eliminate or mitigate the problems of a potential shared neutral -- it merely re-arranges the situation so that a GFCI can function. <S> You could move these two circuits to a separate sub-panel. <S> Use normal breakers in the sub-panel -- even literally move the existing breakers, if you choose a sub-panel in which they're compatible. <S> Feed the sub-panel with a two-pole GFCI breaker. <S> The GFCI protection will extend to all circuits originating in the sub-panel. <A> You should have two SEPERATE circuits. <S> One for the pool light (15 AMP) and one for the pool pump(20 AMP). <S> Never share a neutral for two different 15 and 20 amp circuits. <S> The neutrals should be separate.
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Two different circuits from two different GFCI breakers should NEVER share the same neutral wire.
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Safe to screw on a paper towel holder way above socket? I'm probably overthinking it, but I'm trying to mount the SimpleHuman horizontal paper towel holder. It turns out that the best place for it is in the middle of the inner wall (5.1 inch wide) but above a socket which is located on the bottom of the wall. The three screws are about 1.1 inch each. I'm not drilling a hole, just using a normal mechanical screwdriver. Is this a concern at all? <Q> Entry level models are inexpensive. <S> This way, you can find the studs and the wires. <S> More expensive models may also detect other services (e.g. metal plumbing or gas pipes). <S> If you are just going to attach the holder with screws, or with the skinny little excuse for anchors usually included with these sort of things, you run the risk of the holder coming out of the wall over time, because at least one of those two mounting holes probably won't line up with a stud (unless you've got some super wide studs). <S> Grab yourself some drywall anchors or spring toggle devices to get a better hold on the wall. <S> The former looks like a big plastic screw, with room for another screw in the middle, and a flat tip. <S> This is is shown in the first picture below. <S> These bite in to the drywall and get a firm grip, providing you with a rigid hole to screw in to. <S> The latter (spring toggle, second picture) consists of a screw with spring loaded wings that spring apart after you push them through a wall. <S> Naming may be different in the US, but I would expect they would still be readily available. <S> The objective here is to distribute the load of the holder (and <S> anybody pulling on it) over a greater area to avoid ruining your wall. <S> Be somewhat wary of the drywall anchors though if you ever want to remove the holder, as they do tend to make a mess when they come out. <A> I wouldn't worry too much. <S> Modern electrical standards have wire stapled an inch and a bit back from the interior of the drywall. <S> If your screws are less than 1.5" long, you shouldn't hit anything. <S> If you are pre-drilling for drywall plugs, only go 5/8" in. <S> It's ideal (and still safe) if you get one screw into a stud. <S> There should be one either on the left or the right side of that outlet. <A> Good question! <S> Your primary goal is to assure that you do not have a screw it a wire, and become "hot" possibly electrocuting someone at an inopportune time! <S> The secondary goal is to get a sound mechanical connection for your holder. <S> Usually studs are on 16" centers, but in smaller rooms like bathrooms they may not be. <S> A hot wire detector is a good tool to identify where wires may be, but a stud finder is a good way of detecting where the studs are. <S> So using a stuf finder (or your knuckles rapping on the wall, and detecting sound changes), I would identify where the stud is. <S> Then I would try to get one of your mounting screws into a stud. <S> For the other screw, I would consider a plastic insert that goes into the drywall, and using a screw that only protrudes 1/2 to 5/8" past your holder into the wall. <S> That will reduce the possibility of hitting a wire. <S> The paranoid, who own a voltmeter, will check for any voltage on the screws relative to ground, when the job is complete. <S> It only takes seconds, and gives confidence that someone with wet hands, and another part of their body grounded, will not get the shock of their life at some inopportune moment. <A> Another perspective is to think if there would ever be a risk of dropping a metal object onto a plug which is in the outlet. <S> If the plug isn't quite in all the way then the electrified prongs could be exposed. <S> A metal object making contact could in the worst case lead to injury or fire. <S> Or at least a blown breaker. <S> (This is one argument for why some people prefer that US-style outlets should be installed the other way around - with the ground pin at the top). <S> There could even be a nonzero risk from dripping water, perhaps. <S> In this particular situation the risk of this seems quite small at any time other than when you are installing the holder . <S> You might drop a metal part, tool, screw, etc. <S> So the simple precaution it to not use that outlet while you're working above it -- or at least make sure whatever's plugged in is fully inserted. <A> I would also be concerned about reaching for a paper towel with wet hands and dropping some water down at the plug/socket interface. <S> The risk must at least be higher near where you are likely to have wet hands, or to be holding something wet. <S> (TBC to add - photo of towel dispenser at work)
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If you are concerned about the presence of wiring near where you are installing this, grab yourself a stud finder with "live wire" detection from your local hardware store. A related risk could be handling a plug with wet hands, more likely to occur near the source of paper towels. As pointed out by another poster, generally, but not all the time, there is a stud on the right or left of an outlet.
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Can I reuse the garage door rail when replacing the garage door opener? I have a chain drive garage door opener. The sprocket on top of the garage door opener broke off so the chain isn't connected to the garage door opener anymore. I want to re-use the garage door rail I have because it's one piece that's 6 or 7 ft long (I didn't measure but it's about that long). Looking at the chain drive openers I can buy at Home Depot, it looks like the rail is in pieces since the box is like 2 ft long. Assuming the length, load strength, etc. is the same for both the one piece rail and the multiple piece rail, is it a good idea for me to reuse the old rail? I'm asking because I want to install less things if I can help it. Also, the idea of a single solid rail sounds more structurally sound than a 5 piece rail that's screwed together. <Q> Generally no, you cannot reuse the rail, they are not all exactly the same dimensions. <S> There is no one standard size of profile, even within the same manufacturer, they change over the years. <S> The holes for the attach points may change also, this could be solved by drilling more holes, but this would defeat the purpose of saving time. <S> If you bought a new opener within a few years of buying the old one, then maybe. <S> But, they normally last 10 years or so. <S> Edit: just to be clear, this is the rail on a typical opener. <S> For most designs, a shuttle rides on the rail. <S> Not all rails have the same cross-section (profile). <S> There are at least two types, T and Box. <S> And each of these are not standardized. <S> But, these are high wear items, not recommended. <S> Not all use chains anyway <S> , there are belt drives also. <A> I have reused the rail, to save time when swapping garage door units. <S> It was a similarly branded unit, and the rails appeared to be identical. <S> That was 32 years ago. <S> The original rail continues to work fine. <S> Every 5 years or so, I clean it up and re-grease it. <S> If the new and old rail are different, or the old one has allot of wear, I would install the new one. <S> Otherwise, you may save some time and effort by reusing the existing on. <A> That wouldn't be a good idea. <S> Too much rests on that rail and it's designed to fit exact. <S> You mentioned that the sprocket broke off.. <S> There's usually a roll pin that attaches the sprocket to the drive shaft, did you check that? <S> Also, you might want to look for a replacement sprocket if your old one actually broke. <A> Why don't you ask a manufacturer customer service rep with details on each opener? <S> I agree that the multi-piece rails are unstable compared to a one piece rail.
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You could possibly re-use the shuttle and possibly the chain.
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Wire AC Condensor fan motor to three prong plug for shop fan Here is the wiring schematic on the motor: How would I wire these wires safely to a plug like this: <Q> Mains wiring is dangerous <S> You're not allowed to just barf a bunch of wires and call it done. <S> The fan, I assume you scrounged this from an old air conditioner, is made to fit inside a housing, which you have removed. <S> You need to head off to the metal press to restore two key functions of the housing: <S> Physical protection from fan blades, and electrical protection for the wiring. <S> Once that is done, you can fit an appropriate cord and strain relief onto that housing. <S> The fan is almost certainly 240V ... <S> Since most air conditioning units hook up 240V no neutral. <S> The motor will not like 120V because it's simply the wrong voltage. <S> There's nothing you can do with the start capacitor to improve that. <S> Which means it can't be powered from 120V ( <S> unless you do some very graduate-level stuff that's way out of your depth and would be prohibitive in cost, since I assume the point here is to scrounge/be cheap). <S> It needs to be powered from 240V, which means it needs a different type of plug . <S> You need a NEMA 6-15 <S> (I presume this isn't a 3600 watt fan). <S> This has <S> the 2 blades rotated 90 degrees, so they are flat to each other. <S> See #3 here <S> This in turn means you'll need to run a 240V circuit to your garage if you don't have one already. <S> However they are rather useful, and let you get good deals on 240V tools on Craigslist from people who didn't know what they were buying and are now stuck with a white elephant. <S> That's just dumb. <S> Cheap is not the same as stupid. <S> Aside from potentially killing you in the interim, the inspector will require you put it right when you sell the house, and that usually turns into an expensive fiasco because you're in a hurry to close. <S> There are some things you don't mess with, and electrical is one of them. <A> This isn't really possible. <S> First of all, almost all AC fan motors that I have seen are 240v, not 120v, so a common plug and common electrical outlet will not work. <S> Even if it is 120v, that diagram shows that it requires a run capacitor (CAP). <A> You would have to step the voltage up from 120 to 240, the transformer will need to have the same or higher KVA as the motor FLA to do it with 120v. <S> To tell the truth it would be safer just buy a fan compared to a transformer and proper wiring box for the connections and transformer. <S> The size of the motor (HP) is the last issue we need to look at power in the primary is approximately equal to power in the secondary <S> your plug is a 15 amp so your max load will be 12 amps primary <S> 6 amp secondary <S> Many of these fans are fractional horsepower so it can be done. <S> But we would need to know the size of the motor to be able to identify the correct transformer. <S> But it may be cheaper to purchase a fan.
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That capacitor will need to be wired onto the cord, and will need to be protected by a box of some sort to prevent anyone/thing from touching the exposed terminals (which are high voltage). The temptation for the novice cheapie is to hork this up in some non-code-compliant way.
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Is a vertical crack in a wall stud okay as long as the wall isn't load bearing? In the photo above you can see that a pipe was put through a 2x4 and that the 2x4 splintered/cracked somewhat as well. This is framing a bathroom in the basement. On the Framing perpendicular there is a steel beam support the house. I don't think that the framing around the bathroom is supposed to be a major load bearing wall. Is this 2x4 okay as is or should I have it replaced? <Q> There is no need to replace it. <S> Just put in couple of 2 inch screws to tighten it up. <S> ( your could squirt some wood glue into the crack for good measure before hand ) <S> We can not see further down the wall but in theory it is attached to the 2x4 of the wall next to it <S> so it is not carrying any load by itself. <A> Use a Simpson Strong-Tie 16-Gauge Galvanized Stud Shoe for 2x material. <S> Picture Source <S> The stud shoe also offers a equivalent of a protection plate for the pipe. <A> Not a clean fix, but I would sister another pre hogged out 2x4 so as to reinforce the cracked area. <S> Use structural screws for the sistering. <S> You can use structural screws to pinch together the cracking. <S> When all done, reset the hanger on the sistered spliced 2x4. <S> Addendum: A friend reminded me of a bathroom floor we had problems reinforcing, and urged that construction adhesive also be used on the sistered stud. <S> Not needed in this case, but something to consider like on a floor with a history of water contact. <A> If I was sure about not at all load-bearing, use screws and wood glue as per Alaska Man's answer. <S> If it was bearing some load but was not critical to the structure of the house, then you could reinforce it with a length of 2x2 at least a foot either side of the pipe (to the left in the photo). <S> Beware 5 minute epoxy which may set faster than you want it to!
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Drill and screw it above and below as prep, then if you coat the surface with epoxy glue and screw it back, the glue will be stronger than the wood when it has set. You want the pipe resting on the hangar, not the wood, so the pipe doesn't chatter on the wood with temperature changes. On the bathroom floor job we used treated deck screws, because of the history of water.
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how to wire two switches in one box with three wires , two of the go to different lights, which one is hot If somebody could help me with this, please! There are two switches in a box. I wanted to put a timer on one switch, so I disconnected it. Then I realized that the timer needs a neutral and there is no neutral in that box. So I reconnected the switch but now one switch is depended on the other. Here is my puzzle. There are three wires, white, black and red, I am not even sure which one is hot, but there is obviously one hot and two are loads (lights). So which one is hot?? I connected black to both switches and one switch to white and another to red. The results is one switch turns on lights only if the other switch is on. I reconnected to the white as common - the same thing. Maybe red is common, but something is fishy here, as I don't remember it being common. So how I determine for sure which is hot and how to make sure the switches are not influencing each other Thank you in advance <Q> White is hot, per NEC. <S> However your installation is already a code violation, so it might be two. <S> Also, this particular instance is one of those rare times experimentation does not hurt; switches either short their terminals or do not, so you have already seen the worst case symptom. <S> So go ahead and try all 3 possibilities. <S> The hot wire is the one that is split to go to 1 terminal on each switch (doesn't matter which). <S> The remaining 2 wires each go to 1 switch, on the remaining terminals. <S> Here are the relevant Code bits: in a cable, if the white wire is not needed for neutral, it can be re-marked for use as a hot. <S> It must be marked with paint or tape and the tape must be a valid hot color (not white, gray or green). <S> Black is fine. <S> A re-marked white wire must be always-hot , if always-hot <S> is one of the wires in the cable. <S> As to your timer problem <S> Either GMOs, vaccines, Roundup, or HFCS is turning young people's wrists into things that can only hold phones. <S> However, for those of us with wrists, we can use a traditional <S> (if 1980s is defined as "traditional") timer. <S> These don't need neutral for power, because the power comes from the aforementioned wrists. <S> These come in a variety of runtimes, and you can choose a model with or without a "continuous hold" position. <S> These have 2 screws and install like a plain switch. <S> (The cover plate is NOT Decora, it is very clever but weird, and you must, must read and follow the instructions. <S> NEC 110.3(B).) <A> swap the wire that goes to both switches with the wire that goes only to the switch which currently controls both lights. <S> This <S> because, hot must be thw wire that currently goes to the switch that is master. <S> it the place it should go to is common to both switches. <A> To find the HOT wire, test between the WHITE AND GROUND and see if you read 120 volts? <S> If so, that is your hot wire. <S> If there is no neutral in the box for the timer you will have to feed a new 2 wire HOT AND NEUTRAL in the box. <S> Hope this helps.
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It sounds like the WHITE is the hot wire (common feeding both switches) and the BLACK and RED are the switch legs for the lights (loads).
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Should insulation batts in my attic be lifted off the ceiling, leaving a gap? I have what appears to be R-30 unfaced fiberglass insulation batts between my ceiling joists. The installation looks like I would expect, except that the batts appear to have been pulled away from the ceiling drywall such that there is an air space between the drywall and the insulation. Some batts are bowed up and others have their edges exposed to the attic (not fully in contact with the joist as a result of being pulled up). Because the house has non-IC can lights, the insulation isn't continuous, meaning that the otherwise insulated air pocket is effectively vented to the attic every so often. I would expect that insulation in direct contact with the drywall would perform best. It's not clear to me if this was done by the builder to make the insulation appear to be thicker than it actually is, if it has crept over time due to thermal expansion or other movement, or if this is a superior way to insulate an attic. If it matters, I live in CA and the house is mid-1980s vintage. This is typical of what I'm seeing. The batt on the left has its sides touching the ceiling joist, but will sit 2-3 inches lower if I push it down against the ceiling drywall. The batt on the right does not have its sides consistently touching the joist. Here's a quick takeout from ubakus, though I couldn't find a way for it to show as a vertical space rather than a wall. The air gap between insulation and my roof sheathing ranges from 2-16 feet; I used 4 feet in this model. <Q> Sounds like a sloppy install to me, and as a result the insulation that's not in continuous contact with the ceiling panels is doing nothing. <S> If air can circulate around the insulation, virtually no heat is retained or blocked (in winter and summer, respectively). <S> I would do my best to lay and fit the batts that are there, then I'd consider overlaying blown cellulose (an easy DIY job) to fill voids and bring your R-value up to modern standards. <A> It doesn’t matter if there’s a 2” air gap or 2’ air gap between the ceiling insulation and the ceiling finish, the air gap is considered part of the living space AND will be conditioned to the room temperature. <S> (You are heating/air conditioning an extra 2” of ceiling space.) <S> The graph is confusing because it’s rotated 90 degrees to how the space is constructed. <S> (It looks like a wall space instead of a ceiling/attic/roof space.) <S> You can see from the direction of the black line why the attic space needs to be vented. <S> A bigger issue is the method of construction for your recessed can lighting. <S> I’d build a box (usually made out of gypsum board) around the lights to keep the insulation away from the light fixture (so it doesn’t catch fire) and then install batt insulation around and over the box to compete the insulation envelope. <A> An air layer is sometimes part of insulation constructions in order to get rid of moisture , depending on the location of the due point. <S> A reliable way to get all necessary information is to input each layer into the "Ubakus"-Site, which is free for private use: Ubakus.de
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If this was some sort of intentional air gap there would also be an air barrier over the insulation (out of necessity).
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How can I remove a cable from a junction box? I have a ceiling junction box in my garage that has four armored cables coming into it. I want to remove one of the cables as I'm not using it. I don't have access to the back side of the box, because the ceiling is finished (metal lath and plaster). I'm thinking I could remove this a few different ways: twist the wires together, wire nut, and leave in the box cut the exposed copper, and electrical tape the ends cut the wires back to the cable clamps <Q> Fortunately, they don't say that about conduit, because I have loads of conduit routes I'm not using right now , that I prefer to keep in place for future use. <S> Even though you don't envision a need right now, fact is, you never really know. <S> So I recommend exactly what JACK is telling you: remove them from the picture non-destructively so you are able to spare yourself the expense of fishing wire if you ever need them in the future. <S> (about 10 cents). <S> I would do either that, or what Jack says - just cap it off and don't worry about it. <S> The only exception is if retaining the cable exceeds the cubic-inch limit of the box; that must be dealt with either by adding a box extension or pushing the cable out of the box. <A> You don't want to cut the wire, especially since your garage is finished. <S> We are always getting questions on how to run or install wire. <A> Cap it. <S> Tag it with "Dead" and date of OOS. <S> Leave it in place. <S> While the NEC code says destruction, unless you pull it completely out without an explanation the next owner will wonder what happened. <S> Just an opinion. <S> I'm not a Master. <S> You could also reach out to your code enforcement office for your township and see what opinion they have.
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NEC officially says abandoned wire/cable should be removed altogether from the box, and the walls, and if that is not practicable, then utterly destroy it where it is reachable. The best option is to wire nut each wire separately, don't cut the copper piece, and then wrap with some electrical tape and just leave them in the box. You never know when you might need it for something in the future. One of the numerous opinions on the forum you linked recommended pushing it just outside the junction box, but where it could be reached if you wanted it in the future, and then if needed cover any empty holes with a knockout cover.
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How can I run voice over existing coaxial cable? I've been doing home improvement projects for a while and one thing that I've made use of the most is taking advantage of existing cabling in the walls that isn't being used. The project that did this the most was my "video-over-coax" setup, which uses a composite-video-to-cable modulator and a coax switch to show some video output on the whole coax network, for example the security camera monitor. This thing works by tuning into a specified channel on the TV that the coax is attached to. I want to get access to my landline phone signal from my garage/office. As of now, there are only a couple of connections from the network closet (where the main networking stuff is, most importantly here the phone line switch) to the garage, which are a coax line and an Ethernet line (which can't be tampered with because it's needed for an internet connection). Simply running new cable from the closet to the garage is unfortunately impractical, since it would need to be underground (the garage and main house are separated from each other) and we can't do that. skip to here to ignore background info ramble The only solution I can come up with is somehow modulating the voice signal over the existing coax line and demodulating it at the other end (and vice versa because voice is two-way), which I have no idea how to do (or if it's even possible). The main problem here is that my current modulation setup is one-way, video-->coax-->TV, where the TV never interacts back with the modulator or video source. This is obviously incompatible with voice (and IP, etc), which means I would need some sort of modem on both ends rather than a modulator on one and a demodulator on the other. Regardless, if it is indeed possible, how could I go about running voice over coax? Expanding on this I'm also curious if I can do "general purpose" modulation, wherein I could run stuff that's completely unrelated to what coax is usually used for, like USB or SPI (for Arduino), over the existing cable. I've ran USB over Cat5 cable before with success (the 4 USB wires connected to 4 of the 8 Cat5 wires on either end), which is what brings up this idea. <Q> Assuming you don't already have ethernet available in the garage, you COULD use a pair of MoCA adapters to use the coax for ethernet. <S> Beyond that, the two magic terms you'll need to Google for are "FXO" and "FXS". <S> A FXO VoIP gateway is basically a VoIP server that's connected to a telephone line. <S> A FXS VoIP interface is basically a VoIP client that uses a regular telephone as its input and output device. <S> In theory, any device capable of being a FXO server should be able to be a FXS client as well, because the interface hardware is basically the same... <S> but if you can find a FXS adapter, it'll probably be cheaper than buying two FXO servers. <S> Don't take my word for it without further research (it's been about 10 years since I last looked into it), but I think at least one member of the Linksys SPA-3xxx family can be used for this purpose if you buy a pair of them... <S> basically, each box has an ethernet port, a FXO jack, and a FXS jack. <S> You'd configure one of them as a FXO gateway and VoIP server with local LAN IP address & connect its FXO jack to the phone jack, and configure the other one as a FXS client that connects to the first & plug the phone into its FXS jack. <S> Be careful with the SPA-3xxx (and SPA-21xx?) <S> devices, though... some of them are service-locked, especially if you buy one that isn't brand new. <S> From what I remember, the only way to know for sure whether it's locked to a specific service is to try accessing its configuration menu... <S> if it's locked, you won't be allowed to change the SIP or FXO settings. <S> Also, there are two passwords... <S> one of which is necessary for "advanced" settings and can NOT be factory reset. <S> I remember reading about how a bunch of people who bought cheap ones on eBay to use with Asterisk & discovered that they were basically paperweights due to service locks or lost passwords. <A> POTS (analog phone) is very undemanding, so long as you respect its nature. <S> It's dependent on a DC connection, so any sort of "transformer" like converter will screw it up. <S> Odds are excellent that simply connecting one phone wire to the center and the other to the shield will work, despite the cable being unusual. <S> This is, of course, also the inexpensive option. <S> Your more modern approach would be to use VOIP to add the phone conversation to your other data streams on the existing data connection, or to use a different sort of converter/modem to send ethernet signals over the coax. <A> Depending upon what you want to do, there are several ways to accomplish your goal. <S> You will then have ethernet in the garage, and can choose from a variety of devices to stream TV, music, provide internet, etc. <S> You will likely also want a small ethernet switch to help you interface to more than one device. <S> If audio is your only desire, a simple balun will match two balanced wires to the coax unbalanced line. <S> There is a plethora of other devices to help you match your signals to a coax line. <S> My suggestion is the ethernet to coax adapter, and that will give you the ability to interface to a variety of devices. <S> Yes, you can have a big screen TV in the garage for your buds when they come over. <S> Depending upon which way you want to go, you may be able to find the adapters from sources like Amazon. <S> If you want two audio channels over coax, without ethernet, that can be done, but finding the adapter and matching it to your coax may be more complicated. <S> It will be helpful to know what kind of coax you have. <S> Some are 50 ohm, and others are 75 ohm. <S> You may be able to read the type of coax off the cable and look it up. <S> Knowing the impedance will help you select the right devices to interface to the coax.
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You can get an ethernet to coax adapter which will allow you to use the cable to connect between two adapters.
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How wasteful is a voltage transformer? If an appliance that is rated for 220V is used with a 110v-to-220v transformer in a 110v country, or an appliance that is rated for 110V is used with a 220v-to-110v transformer in a 220v country, how much of the electricity is wasted? That is, how much more will it consume compared to the appliance used in its native current country? If it matters which type of appliance, let's assume something like a humidifier, dehumidifier, air purifier type. <Q> The bigger problem is the transformer is going to set you back about $100, so it spectacularly fails to make sense for a $40 humidifier. <S> Dollar for dollar, if you're coming to North America, you may be better off just adding a couple 240V circuits to your house, and running the appliances off 240V straight shot. <S> North America has both 120V and 240V available. <A> Something like a dehumidifier which has a fairly high load and a high start up current, will require a larger transformer. <S> Cost and portability will be major considerations. <S> Smaller appliances with low current draws, will be easier to fit to a small transformer. <A> You're wasting about 2-3% of the transformer rating in inefficiency. <S> If you're switching secondary voltage, then you're paying for the primary winding losses 24 hours a day even if there's no load on the transformer. <S> The transformer is just one more item that can fail and leave you without your appliances.
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For reasonable quality transformers, figure a loss of about 3%.
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How can I seal up this gap on top to make it smellproof As you can see, at the top of my door there's an open panel with fixed glass panes attached to allow airflow through. How should I best seal that giant gap up so that I can install air-conditioning in this room? <Q> Tape plastic over it. <S> If you tape the perimeter fully, it should work pretty well. <A> I would go the home improvement store and buy the following: <S> A piece of plexiglass (PG), a plexiglass cutter , some clears silicone adhesive caulk, some painters tape and piece of 220 grit sandpaper. <S> and then you can snap it on the score line. <S> Search YouTube for visual tutorials. <S> Lightly sand the edges of the cut to take of the burrs. <S> Run a bead of caulk around the perimeter and press the PG into place. <S> put some tape strips over the plexiglass in both directions to keep it from sliding down or moving for 24 hours. <S> Gently remove tape, have a beer. <A> Fitting foam is usually simpler than plexiglas, and it has some R-value if you are air-conditioning the room.
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If visual appeal is not a concern, you could also get a piece of closed-cell foam-board insulation, and cut it to fit. Cut the plexiglass to fit, Measure and mark your PG and use a straight edge to run the cutter against, this scores the PG
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Torque delivered by a hand ratchet with 1/2" socket How much (maximum) torque can a normal 150 lbs. man deliver manually with a hand-ratchet wrench (say 8" ratchet arm and a 1/2" socket) assuming no rust-resistance, direct/easy access etc? <Q> Okay my curiosity was piqued. <S> I am an average 60 something year old guy who turns a wrench for a living. <S> I clamped my old school Beam Type Torque Wrench in a vise. <S> Using a 1/2" square x 3/8 drive drive socket on the torque wrench and an 8" ratchet I hit 70 ft-lbs. <S> This was just a straight steady pull. <S> I did not test to see how long I could hold that number. <A> Torque is simply the amount of force you apply (lbs) multiplied by the distance from the thing you're rotating (ft), hence the unit "ft-lbs" (foot pounds). <S> If you apply 50 lbs of force 6 inches (.5ft) <S> away from the bolt head, then you're applying 25ft-lb of torque. <S> The same 50lbs applied at the end of a 2ft wrench would give 100ft-lb of torque. <A> if your're a weightlifter or other athlete probably much more. <S> (you'll probably break the handle and skin your knuckles) <S> If torque is important use a torque wrench. <S> if doing up wheel nuts stand on the end of the wrench, that will be "enough". <S> (to undo face it the other way and jump on end, that will be more than "enough") <A> It depends how long the "cheater" is. <S> With a 3 foot cheater pipe over the handle ,it will be a LOT of torque. <S> For my 3/8 drive , 1/2" thinwall conduit is a perfect fit over the handle <S> so I have about a 10" length in my tool box. <S> Large box wrenches ( like 2") in industry only have about a 12" stub handle <S> , the user supplies what ever length pipe he wants for torque. <A> Thinking more of the underlying question, max torque isn't the only tradeoff between hand and power tools: <S> The power tool will provide the rated torque for as long as you can supply power (e.g. charged batteries). <S> Can the person? <S> The power tool's maximum torque is likely to be with a fully charged battery, and will drop off before the rated runtime, and is a hard limit, while you can often find a cheater for a hand tool. <S> Heavier impact drivers are better for this for the same grip (conservation of angular momentum) <S> but then you're holding a heavier tool for long periods, which is hard work in some positions. <S> An advantage of a (typical) impact driver over a ratchet&socket is that the power tool provides closer to pure torque, while a handheld spanner can require a lot more bracing of the workpiece to avoid moving it. <S> That's fine if it's a car or a building, but for something lighter it can be troublesome (e.g. undoing the crank bolts on my bike - I have to do it on the ground rather than the workstand because the down/up force of the hand tool is too much for the stand <S> - I wouldn't use an impact driver there anyway) <S> When comparing different power tools, runtime and ease of use (ergonomics, battery options) are at least as important. <S> I often do the slow heavy part of the job with hand tools but use my non-impact power driver for the boring spinning of an overly-long bolt.
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Many light high-torque power tools don't really have a suitable grip to resist that torque, at least not more than briefly, and can be quite harsh on your wrist if used to give maximum torque for long periods, especially single-handed. If you can apply upwards force using your leg muscles to supply the force and just hanging on with your arms you can probably put three times your weight on it so 450 pounds on an 8" handle is 300 foot-pounds. On the other hand if you're working away from power most people would last longer.
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What is happening to the surface of this shutoff valve? Yes, I know it's rust, but should I be concerned? In the third picture you can see the complete layout, to the right is where the water enters the house with the first valve (green) before the meter, then the red is the primary shutoff. This is in a house we moved into, but do I need to worry about turning it if I need to? In the sideview, it looks like it's just the handle, perhaps it hasn't rusted inside the valve? It doesn't appear anything has been dripping on it, just seems odd why there is so much rust. Can I replace the handle? <Q> You can replace the handle but you've probably have to take it off a new valve that you'd buy. <S> No reason to do that though, just wire brush the valve and throw a little rust remover on it. <S> That's the main shutoff and there could have been a leak above it ,maybe on another faucet, that just ran down the pipe before or after the insulation was added. <S> So clean it up and keep an eye of it to see if it starts to rust again. <S> I wouldn't worry about operating the valve as they are probably the best valves on the market. <A> The cadmium ( possibly zinc) <S> coating has corroded off the steel handle ; this was caused by being wet. <S> It should be easy enough to replace the handle although you may need to buy a similar valve just to get a handle . <S> To clean the rust and coat the old handle you will need to remove the handle anyway. <S> By taking the old handle with you to a store , you should be able to get an equal replacement. <S> Find out why it gets wet , my guess is condensation during hot weather . <S> A layer of grease or vasoline will help protect the new handle from the water corrosion. <A> The iron handle is rusting. <S> It replaces the way you mention in comment. <A> From the side view I can see it has a packing nut. <S> You can probably remove and clean the handle with a wire brush and also tighten the packing nut under the handle. <S> Check the valve in a couple days for moisture. <S> If you should have to replace the valve be sure that if the new one has a packing nut that you tighten it after soldering it in <S> and it has cooled down.
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If there is moisture the valve should be replaced. The actual valve and stem it is on is brass and not rusting. Who ever originally installed the valve should have known to check the packing nut to be sure it was tight.
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How could I attach a face plate to a broken Appleby dry lining box? An electrician has installed a dry lining box for a cat6 network terminal. These boxes are supposed to have a metal insert inside each of the yellow parts, which accepts the type of screw that is standard for attaching UK electrical switches, sockets etc. Unfortunately, both of these metal inserts are missing, so there is no obvious way to attach the faceplate. I don't want to replace the entire box as the plasterboard has already been tiled. What alternative methods could be used to attach the faceplate securely? Somebody asked about removing the yellow inserts from these boxes on Screwfix , and Appleby responded that "in design principle and as a general rule these [yellow parts] should never be removed as the lugs themselves cannot be replaced." I hope somebody here can be more helpful than this. Again, this is being used for networking -- not mains -- so electrical safety is not a serious concern. <Q> The yellow lugs might not be officially removable. <S> In practice they are. <S> Whether you will be able to get the existing ones out, and replacement ones in, without causing damage to the rest of the box in situ (causing the mechanism to become inoperable) <S> I woudln't like to say... <S> but you have nothing to lose by trying. <A> Very popular old method, toothpicks. <S> If you don't have toothpicks, just shave a few chips off a pencil or something. <S> Steel wool - pack the holes with steel wool, the screws will hold well enough for light non critical duty. <S> Drill the hole out so that a small concrete or drywall anchor will fit in there. <S> Use a larger screw, enlarge the holes on the faceplate if necessary. <S> You get the idea, just get creative, <S> just about anything will work if you let it. <A> I have made, in the past, some small angled brackets - threaded for the "normal" face plate screws and then screwed them to the sides of the box, you would have to remove or flatten the yellow bits. <S> The brackets were mounted sufficiently far back <S> and I kept the standard screws so anyone loosing one in the future would be able to replace it. <A> Wax the screws, fill the holes with a fairly stiff epoxy putty, tape the faceplate to the wall and screw the waxed screws into the epoxy putty (unset) and then wait for it to set. <S> Wait longer than the minimum time <S> (or just have everything with the wiring/jacks ready to go when you do this <S> so you are in no hurry to remove the screws.) <S> Alternatively, fill, let set, drill and tap. <S> More tools needed. <A> bust the box out and fit an old-work box. <S> then put drywall or panel adhesive on the four corners of the square, pass it through the hole and rotate it 45 degrees, pull it into place and clamp it using the screws until the glue sets.
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or seeing as the box is not needed for safety, cut a square of plywood the same size as the opening and put holes for the two mounting screws along one diagonal, cut a round hole in the middle of the square to accomodate the network jack. Insert a couple toothpicks in those holes and snap them off flush. There are lots of easy ways to do this.
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Should this 3 ply LVL bear on a single 2x4? My engineer has designed a 6'6" beam to carry my load and this would consist of 3 LVL glued and screwed together. 7 1/2" LVL. Like most LVL, a single ply is 1 3/4" deep. So, as he has it specified 3 of those will be put together and that'll be 5 1/4" deep. However he has specified this will go inside / span the bearing wall, which is a 2x4 wall. In this case, he has also specified that each end of the beam will bear on only one 2x4. I don't doubt his design necessarily but would like more explanation on how/why it is legitimate to bear the 5 1/4" beam on a 2x4 ( 3 1/2" actual depth). I've attached a sketch below for clarity looking at the side of the 2x4 link to engineer doc https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vlIXbt2FQ_YYJN9PjOkHpAx7pcumKWch/view?usp=sharing <Q> None of us can really answer this with confidence, not having all necessary information (or, in my case, an engineering degree). <S> I will offer a few assumptions and suggestions based on the engineer's drawing: <S> A tripled, relatively squat beam is probably being used to maximize head clearance. <S> More typically this would be a doubled 9-7/8" beam, which rests more comfortably on a single trimmer stud and fits within a 2x4 wall. <S> You might consider whether that's a more desirable option than having a beam that exceeds the width of the current wall. <S> On second thought, this looks like a "flush beam" situation, whereby the beam is at and above ceiling line. <S> Concerns about beam width in relation to wall width are probably moot, and the beam will rest on doubled studs per spec. <S> Otherwise, you could always double the trimmer studs to alleviate concern. <S> This is a low-cost solution that may bring peace of mind. <A> Trimmers are designed to support the total load without crushing the fibers in the wood beam where it rests on the trimmer or from crushing the trimmer. <S> The engineer notes in the letter that the new beam is to support the second floor (one floor). <S> There are no dimensions given, but using 2x8 floor joists at 16” on center, They can span about 12’-9” maximum, depending on the species and grade. <S> So the floor load on the new beam is about: 50 psf (Live Load of 40 psf plus a Dead Load of 10 psf) <S> x 12’-9” = <S> 637.5 plf <S> So the load at each end is: 637.5 plf x 6’-6” / 2 = 2,072 lbs. <S> One 2x4 trimmer has an area of: 1.5 x 3.5 <S> = 5.25 sq. <S> Inches <S> Therefore the stress on the trimmer and the new beam at each end is: 2,072 lbs. / <S> 5.25 sq. <S> In. <S> = 394 per sq. <S> in. <S> Wood in compression parallel to grain (the trimmer) can support about 1,100 lbs. <S> per square inch, which is significantly under stressed. <S> However, wood in compression perpendicular to grain (the new beam) can only support about 500 lbs. <S> per square inch, which is slightly greater than the actual 394 lbs. <S> per square inch. <S> So, one trimmer is acceptable, provided: 1) the hose is not more than 25’ wide, 2) there is no roof load on the existing wall, 3) <S> the LVL’s are Douglas Fir No. 1 or better. <S> The most important thing is to verify that the engineer accounted for all the loads on the new beam, INCLUDING any roof loads. <S> I’d look in the attic and see if any ceiling joists or roof joists bear on this wall and ultimately the new beam. <S> If so, I’d notify the engineer immediately. <S> (As he says in his letter, he wants to know if any of the conditions are different than what he has shown.) <S> Btw, I’m surprised he did not stamp the drawings. <S> It’s required in every state. <S> (I think you’ll find out he’s a civil engineer, not a structural engineer.) <A> If you're in direct contact with the engineer, I'd go back to him with <S> Hey, Mr. Engineer, this is pretty cool! <S> Let me ask you something, though. <S> From my uneducated non-engineer's perspective, this doesn't quite make sense, would you explain this to me? <S> i.e. acknowledge that he's the engineer <S> , you're just Joe Citizen and ask him to talk it through with you explaining why it's OK. <S> He may realize that he's made a mistake (if he has), or he'll explain why it's OK as is and put your mind at ease.
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A single trimmer stud is apparently adequate for the load on the beam (though it wouldn't hurt to ask the engineer rather than us), and the attached full-height (king) stud provides the stiffness that I was concerned about in my comment above.
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How to test voltage between neutral and ground I'm not an electrician. Per, https://www.apc.com/us/en/faqs/FA158817/ , I want to test the outlets in a room for the following: Overloaded neutral wire (>5 Volts AC measured between Neutral and Ground). Reversed polarity (hot and neutral wires are reversed). Missing ground wire. (Note: this also includes using a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter) I've found simple plug-in devices on Amazon that I'm confident can test for #2 and #3, but what sort of tool do I need for #1, to measure the voltage between Neutral and Ground? <Q> A simple multimeter can help you verify all three, as well as many other voltage related troubleshooting. <S> It's a real must have for... <S> anyone really. <S> To measure between neutral and ground, you will set the meter to AC voltage, 200V range, and stick one probe into the neutral slot of the socket (the wider slot for USA standard sockets, on the left if the ground hole is on the bottom) and one probe into the ground slot (the D shaped hole). <A> A common digital voltmeter will do everything you need. <S> Quality should be reasonable since you will be sticking this thing in electric sockets. <S> You should be wary of the 3-light testers. <S> While they do provide a simple pass/fail test for most outlets, the legend describing the likely faults for "fail" conditions are misleading and wrong . <S> Many hours have been wasted because people believed the legend's interpretations of the fault. <S> I just saw a labeled "hot-ground reverse" which was in fact a lost neutral. <S> (night and day, like reporting a bad fuel injector when the problem is actually a flat tire). <S> Be doubly wary of anything from Amazon. <S> Anything to do with mains AC power should be <S> UL-listed (e.g. a responsible testing lab should approve it). <S> Anything you buy at retail (e.g. Home Depot or Target) will meet this standard. <S> Amazon will not. <S> Amazon seems like a legit retailer, but they quietly opened the platform to third party sellers. <S> As a result, it is completely flooded with the same junkstream you see on eBay, but in sheep's clothing: gussied up to look like a legit product. <S> Products which direct-ship from China, or are drop-shipped from China via Amazon's Fulfillment warehouses (e.g. Prime), do an end-run around all the product safety laws. <S> That may be fine for fidget spinners, but anything that touches mains power can kill you. <A> Most home stores have inexpensive ones that will answer your question but if you're doing this for a living, you'll want to invest in a good/great one. <S> Since you need the meter anyway, you can save yourself a few bucks and not get the plug-in device because the meter will be good for #2 and #3.
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You're going to need a volt meter with test leads and read between the ground point and the neutral point.
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I'm replacing old dishwasher but the connectors are different Ok so the white is the piece comming out of dishwasher and other copper one is comming from water supply under sink. How do I connect the two together when the white is threaded and two big to fit the copper fitting. I don't want to have to replace the copper line it's a older house and would require having to do do much. I'm doing this on my own and I'm a girl but not stupid but am limited in tools and so need a easy fix thank you mary <Q> It is in your interest to understand / measure the connectors on the dishwasher and your water supply to select the right hose adapter. <S> Perhaps one of these lines will allow you to bridge the new dishwasher into the existing water lines; https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dishwasher+line <S> If you are near a Home Depot or Lowe's try their websites as well. <S> Let us know when you are successful! <S> Best to minimize the number of parts: you may need an adapter to bridge your hose into the female copper piping fitting. <S> Whirlpool W10685193 Dishwasher Swivel Gooseneck Fitting. <S> 3/4 by 3/8-Inch Or get a flexible 3/8" steel braided supply line <S> , that is however long you need, and then you don't have to mess with copper. <S> Just make sure the other end will fit on the valve under the sink (e.g., you might need a 3/8" to 1/2"). <S> The fitting pictured usually comes in the bag with 10' supply lines along with other adapters you might need. <A> Looks like you're going to have to replace at least <S> some of that copper line as it appears to have been cut off before the fitting! <S> In the (now removed) image of just the copper line against a white background, it looks like you've got an inline connector (SharkBite baggie) to repair that copper line, but the line has a dent in it near the threaded nipple. <S> I'd suggest that you may want to discard that dented line. <S> Consider getting a new fitting to go on the line at the point where it was cut, then put a flexible line between that and the fitting on the dishwasher. <S> This will allow you to get a fitting that goes on the dishwasher, then you can get the proper fitting for the brass line that will match whatever is on the other end of that flexible line. <S> If you can't find something for the brass end that will match up with your flexible line (pretty unlikely, I'd think) <S> you may have to get an adapter for the brass end. <A> Easy answer, buy a tubing cutter and a dishwasher install kit. <S> Find a section of the existing tubing that's not bent and cut it with the tubing cutter <S> so you get a nice clean round cut. <S> You can google how to use a tubing cutter, they're also inexpensive. <S> The install kit will have a brass compression fitting which will connect to the tubing you just cut (you'll need to wrenches to tighten it). <S> There will be a fitting in the kit that you will screw on to the white fitting on the new dishwasher, careful don't break the white plastic fitting. <S> The kit will have a flexible hose that will connect to the two fittings. <S> Edit:The fitting you connect to the copper tubing is an adapter which will allow you to connect the flexible hose to the copper tubing. <S> Now you can easily connect the flexible hose to each adapter fitting. <S> This is much easier than trying to bend the copper tubing to connect it to the dishwasher. <A> The connection between those two fittings is made using an appliance hose. <S> while these superficially look like garden hoses they are manufactured to a much higher quality because a leak indoors is much more serious than outdoors. <S> your brass fitting appears to be connected to a very beat up piece of copper tubing, that will need to be replaced before it can be reliably connected to your water supply. <A> Just to make sure you haven't missed an easy way. <S> If the sink is nearby, look at the water pipes for the taps under the sink. <S> If the water pipe there has joins (such as a local shut-off tap) then you may be able to buy a T-piece (not sure of local word). <S> Then attach long flexible pipe. <S> This way you might only need to screw and unscrew parts without special tools, and high chance of success. <S> I wish you good luck, and invite you to continue consulting all of us.
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The other fitting going to the dishwasher is also an adapter that will allow you to connect the flexible hose to the dishwasher.
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Efficient whole house heating on a budget. Electric baseboard? Here's the question, read below for the back story and details. 1100SF row home shell. LNG and 200A Electric service but at the moment leaning towards all electric. Considering upfront capital, long term efficiency and long term maintenance, I'm looking for the best heating solution and could use some insight. A little back story here. I'm flipping a row home which will be primarily for student housing. While this is not my first flip. It is my first flip for student housing and also, my first flip where I am hiring a contractor. The goal here is a cost-effective flip given the intended tenants, not cheap. My budget is 80K for a 1100SF home. Also, this home is in an old area of the city where natural gas headers are at best an unknown variable but in some cases filled with sediment and sometimes collapsed. The contractor proposed going all electric since we are redoing the electric anyway. I'm not married to this idea, but not opposed to it if it is necessary, or I can get incentives from the electrical company. I'm concerned about heating. The home appears to have had forced air in some of the home at some point. However, it doesn't appear to be balanced and is in really bad shape. This is a clean slate, even some of the sub-floors are being replaced. The contractor seems to think that each students room should have its own heating control, and suggests electric baseboard heating. I do like the fact that there would be less maintenance involved but the independent controls seem a little superfluous, and I was under the impression that electric baseboard heat is horribly inefficient. Since there is not a fluid medium with any heat capacity to speak of, if it is not running, it is not heating. I'll be putting in new R13 and brand new windows which will help, but I'm still not sure. I'd like to know what my other options are. Most homes I've worked in had an existing Hydoionic system to work off of. So the decision of what type of heating to use for both long term efficiency and reasonable (not minimal) upfront capital expenses somewhat eludes me. <Q> Electric baseboard is "100% efficient" - all the heat gets used in the house. <S> It's also horribly expensive to operate, and not remotely the most efficient "all-electric" heat, which is a cold-climate heat pump(CCHP) that can be 250-300% efficient. <S> Also known as mini-splits. <S> The only "advantage" electric baseboard has is that it's cheap to install. <S> It can also cause fires if furniture or drapes are pushed too close to it. <S> Many utilities have rebate programs for installing a CCHP. <S> Some states do as well. <S> Depending on utility rates, natural gas or CCHP are the most cost effective form of heat to operate in most places that have natural gas available. <S> As far as I can discern from your question the area of concern for that would appear to be the domain of the gas utility, so perhaps they would be willing to investigate if you are considering connecting to their service. <A> A mini split system would likely meet your needs best. <S> While it's obviously a lot more expensive to install you might be able to recoup at least some of the cost with a higher selling price. <S> Not sure if A/C is needed in your area, but of course you also get A/C with a mini split system. <S> I believe a mini split system can only do heating or cooling at one time, not both. <S> Each indoor unit will have it's own thermostat, so that meets your need for individualized controls. <S> Baseboard heat also typically have room thermostats and usually run at line voltage. <S> Programmable line voltage Tstats are available, but not very common. <S> Like Ecnerwal said, baseboard is considered 100% efficient, but not cost effective. <S> One more thought, will the individual rooms be metered separately? <S> I would guess not, which could lead to arguments among your tenants regarding splitting up the electric bill. <S> Because a mini-split system would be so much less expensive to operate, they might not argue over the electric bill if that were installed. <A> I would propose that the best overall solution that I see here is electric baseboard heating. <S> Here are the reasons that I see to make this viable: Low upfront cost to install, both from a unit and labor cost. <S> Very easy to allow for simple AC line style thermostats in each room to allow for room to room temperature adjustment. <S> With multiple renters it is straightforward to pass the monthly electrical operational costs on to the renters. <S> These days it should be possible to use smart WiFi attached smart thermostats to be able to monitor electrical usage to and use that data to split up the electric bill among individual renters.
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Unless you are in a rare part of the country where electricity is cheap, operating electric baseboard heat will be very expensive.
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Drywall repair with cut wall studs We've just had a french drain installed around our basement. In a couple of places, it was necessary to open a hole in a (non-load-bearing) wall, leaving both a hole in the drywall and a cut stud: I think we know how to handle the drywall repair ourselves, but first we need to repair the stud so that we have something to which to attach the drywall. What's the correct way to do that for such a small area? Would we do something like this? And if that's the right approach, can we use something like construction adhesive to attach the replacement baseplate to the concrete floor? <Q> Your proposed solution is perfect. <S> I'd suggest using pressure treated wood in contact with the concrete. <A> I'd probably opt for the paper free green board that can't mold. <S> The sheet will be 4x8 <S> so I'd pull back a 8' section along the bottom and cut it to the height of the current hole. <S> Keep the drywall 1/4" off the concrete. <S> Your plan for 2x4 nailers is fine. <S> After you drywall - I go with a vinyl facia type of baseboard that is water proof. <A> A little too perfect; it'll be protected by trim. <S> It could just be a 2x4 screwed to the surface of the stud and one to the floor plate. <S> And maybe a floating one in the top right. <S> Cut the hole square first.
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Given what looks like black mold on the lower portion of the other drywall I'd be tempted to cut a large rectangle. Adhesive probably won't work terribly well, but if you get a couple of screws in on an angle on the right (connecting to the old plate) plus lots of screws elsewhere, everything should hold together well enough to carry drywall.
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Why does this pipe feeding a hot water heater dip down like this? This is a cold water pipe just in front of the hot water heater it is feeding. Why is it shaped that way? What is its function? <Q> A water softener will have a need to accept a pipe with incoming hard water and another for the outflow of conditioned water to the rest of the residence. <S> When a water softener is installed the U shaped fittings at the bottom of those two pipes would be removed and replaced with a new setup that usually consists of three or four valves. <S> The valve setup allows for bypassing the softener, allowing water into the softener and also a configuration to backflush the unit. <S> These days the whole valve system is often all integrated into a control unit with solenoid valves so that the controller can manage the flushing under electronic control. <A> Looks to me like a heat trap, intended to keep hot water from flowing back through the cold water inlet. <S> A connection for a water softener would be arranged so that all water to the house (with possible exception of the outdoor faucets and the kitchen cold) could be routed through the softener. <S> Softening just the hot water makes little sense. <A> Without knowing the rest of the layout, I can't be 100% certain, but there a few possibilities: <S> As others have mentioned, it could have been placed that way because the original owner intended to fit a "softener" or "filter". <S> Since the house is over 20 years old, its possible there was previously some other device fitted that has subsequently been removed. <S> It's possible it is designed to limit backflow, for example when the inlet pressure drops, or supply is turned off for maintenance. <S> Similarly, it could be designed to stop air bubble making their way into the heater and becoming trapped. <A> @Michael Karas has it right. <S> This website has a DIY that explains things rather well, complete with diagram and YouTube video. <S> They recommend 10ft of pipe between the water softener and water heater to prevent backflow of hot water into the softener, similar to @Hot Licks heat trap, but I personally would use a check valve, which allows flow in only one direction (e.g. into the water heater.) <S> If you eliminate the outdoor faucets and kitchen cold from water softener, as both @Hot Licks and the above website recommend, there isn't that much water usage left unheated, 2 or 3 toilets, the cold on 2 or 3 sinks and 2 or 3 tubs/showers, maybe an ice maker in the fridge and maybe a dishwasher (hot and cold), perhaps a clothes washing machine (hot and cold). <S> So, @Hot Licks, since we don't know anything about the provisioning for softened water to the remaining cold usage points (ice maker, toilets, etc.), I would bet there's an easy way disconnect them from the incoming supply and connect them to the softener. <S> Regardless, softening just the hot water still can make sense. <S> The hard water in areas with limestone and chalk, dissolved by weakly acidic rain containing carbonic acid, gets its hardness from calcium hydrogencarbonate (CaHCO 3 ) 2 . <S> When heated, calcium hydrogencarbonate breaks down into CO 2 (gas), H 2 O (liquid, obviously), and calcium carbonate (CaCO 3 , solid), also called limescale in this scenario. <S> This can clog pipes and encrust the heating elements of a water heater, causing poor heating efficiency and hastening the burnout of electric heating elements. <S> In areas with hard enough water, by keeping energy usage down and preserving the life of the water heater, a water softener just for the water heater can pay for itself long before you pay off the mortgage. <A> Could be the supply and return loop tied together from and old indirect water heater. <S> Possibly once the house was fitted with gas piping the water heater was replaced, eliminating the need to be connected to the heating system.
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It is highly likely that that piping arrangement is made that way to facilitate the installation of a water softener.
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Lifting 200-300 LBS with 2x8 wood - design question I want to lift the body off my 66 VW (not the whole car). Since I already have a 450 lb rated hoist, I decided to take an advantage of it and use it for lifting. This comes handy specially when try to put the body back on the frame. Question I have if my design can handle the weight? I am only planning to suspend the body for a few mins, until I move the frame out and place the dolly under it to lower it down. With that said, I have I have two 2”x6”- 5 feet long going across the front and rear windows opening. (inside I have some extra woods / padding so it not resting on the doors). On top I have a 5 feet long 2”x8” with a 1/2" eye in the center of it. The bottom woods are fastened to the top wood with 3/8” threaded rods and also all the bolts are 3/8” head. The weight of the body is 200 LB, but for safety, let’s assume is 300 LB. can the woods handle the lift? My main concern is the top wood which is lifting 300 LB (~ 150 on each side). can 150 LB on each side bend the 2”x8” enough to break it? All these woods were purchased from Home Depots. Not sure what kind of woods they are but used for constructions. <Q> This will most likely work if the body is as light as you say, but that seems like an optimistic estimate. <S> When you start to lift, the board should tell you if it's going to be ok. <S> By the book, this isn't strictly "safe", but I don't have a problem with self-engineered solutions. <S> The one thing you have to remember is to treat the lifted object as if it could fall at any moment. <S> Never put yourself or one of your limbs under the body and always predict how it will fall if it does and stay out of that path. <S> What you have created will work, but it is also dangerous in that it has not been tested or properly planned/designed. <S> It could damage the car, and it could damage you, so treat it like a pending failure, and be happy when everything does work out. <A> Pay very close attention to the attic structure and how this hoist is attached up there. <S> A minimal attic truss with only 2x4 cross members on the lower joists is not up for this . <S> I'm not happy with it grabbing only 2 joists. <S> (tell me you didn't just use drywall anchors? <S> Drywall has 0 strength). <S> I'd be happier to see it grabbing 4 joists. <S> I'm very concerned with the possibility of the attic trusses running parallel with your mounting beam so you are only attaching to one of them. <S> If so, you'll want to go up in the attic and install some cross members to spread the load to 5 trusses at least. <S> Use those 2x8 and fit them vertically on edge, with Simpson ties. <S> Also, from the way your design gratuitously lays all the wood on its side, I'm guessing that you did not get the memo that wood is much, much stronger lain on edge. <S> Ask on engineering.se why that is, but you'll notice all the working beams in your attic are edgewise. <A> The wood should be fine. <S> Like the others have said, there are other concerns. <S> Is the ceiling attach strong enough? <S> I would like 5X. Calculation for the 2 x 8 on top. <S> The deflection is not acceptable for building construction, but OK for what you are doing.
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The safety margin on the hoist is marginal.
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What is this thing in the entryway of some houses? What is this thing, made of wood, in the entrance of this house in front of the mirror and under the light switch? What is it called? What is it for? Is it there for people to put their keys on? <Q> Yep. <S> Just a key/purse/phone shelf. <S> You'd rest your items there while you pull on your coat and galoshes. <A> It looks to me like some type of cabinet/safe/alarm panel is above the shelf. <A> It's commonly referred to as a niche (perhaps spelt as <S> nich <S> in some regions) <S> Dictionary.com says says Niche <S> Nee-sh noun <S> an ornamental recess in a wall or the like, usually semicircular in plan and arched, as for a statue or other decorative object. <S> Sometimes used to hold a framed painting or mirror, and reduce the risk of incidental damage by passing foot traffic. <S> If the niche is illuminated with a spotlight, the recess also helps to retain the light-spill and highlight the artwork on display. <S> OP's niche is rectangular and relatively shallow compared to the depth required for a semicircular niche. <S> The question is asking about the shelf, which is a part of the niche. <S> Without the recess, it would be a simple shelf, but because there's a recess, the "shelf" is the base of the niche. <S> Therefore this is a niche, not a shelf.
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The shelf is probably just a place to put down keys or purse while you access whatever is in the wall. It is also a cheap way to break up an otherwise boring flat wall, and being thinner will save on framing/construction materials while providing a way to use up lining offcuts during construction.
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Strapping down a copper pipe with little access I installed a new tub faucet because the old one had a terrible diverter. Because the pipe moves in and out (about 1.5inches), it’s impossible to get the new faucet to fit tight against the tub. I also can’t caulk any gap because the movement will break the seal. I have a plan to fix it and I want to make sure this is the best plan. I’ve opened up the wall to strap down the pipe. This is what it looks like inside: The pipes run along the inside of the studs so I cannot screw in a strap. So here’s my plan and I’d love feedback. I plan to add a 3/4” thick piece of scrap plywood behind the pipe. 3/4” is the distance between the tub and pipes. Then, I’ll strap the pipe to this scrap plywood with this: That will keep the pipe from pulling towards the inside of the tub. Then, I’ll toenail a 2x4 between the studs. Finally, I’ll screw through the 2x4 into the 3/4” plywood. Is this over-complicating things? <Q> You don't want to just have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood floating around in there without securing it to the studs. <S> There are a number of ways to do this type of job and your approach seems sound. <S> Be sure to securely attach the 2x (screws or nails) and the 3/4 ply to the 2x. <S> Also, I noticed what appears to be moisture around the lower run of copper where it goes through the wall. <S> I'm assuming that is the feed for your tub faucet. <S> I'm further assuming that the moisture is from prior unsuccessful attempts to seal around the tub faucet and isn't a leak. <S> If that's the case make sure you allow that to dry out thoroughly before you seal up the wall. <S> Might want to use a hair dryer on it but remember the moisture is permeating the entire width of the drywall - don't just get it surface dry. <S> Even with a hair dryer I'd leave it open for a day or two. <S> Good luck. <A> I believe that is a coating sprayed on to keep water from penetrating into layers of shower. <S> Middle of those showers is cardboard with fiberglass sprayed over it. <S> As far as the strapping of the valve. <S> Just silicone your plywood to shower use short enough screws as to not hit the tub and maybe use 2 straps instead of just one. <S> I've done it many times over the years when customer does not want to open up wall behind tub <S> or it isn't an option or tile shower other side <S> just slip a piece in through hole for valve with some silicone on it stick it to back side of tub/shower <S> then tighten the trim up against that piece <S> and we do that with no strapping. <S> It has worked for me for over 10 years. <S> Personally I think the 2x4 is not necessary. <S> Seems a little overkill to me but won't hurt anything as long as 2x4 fits flush with the studs without putting stress on the plastic lines supplying valve. <A> A 2x4 toe-nailed and perforated strapping . <S> Attach two long strips to the bottom of the 2x4 and feed them up between the pipes and the backerboard as you insert it. <S> Pull the strips taunt. <S> Then take 3" screws and set the tip of the screw (at a severe angle into the face of the 2x4) so that it will pull the strap tight before it bottoms out. <S> If it bottoms out, set the screw even lower or use one of the next holes up.
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No, I don't think you're over-complicating it.
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Concrete floor "too thin" for bolt and sleeve anchor In our 100-year-old co-op building in NYC, I'm replacing a failed door stop with a heavier one to prevent our (very) hefty entrance door from smashing the doorway's marble. The door stop is intended to be bolted into the floor with a sleeve anchor very similar to this one and a 5/8" pre-drilled hole. Unfortunately, as I drilled through the tile/concrete with a hammer drill, I discovered that the floor only extends maybe 2" down, after which it seems to be loose fill/sand. If I try to use the sleeve anchor in this hole, it looks like the "expansion" part of the sleeve will be expanding into thin air, or at best only partially in the concrete floor. What should I do? I'm considering somehow inserting as much concrete as possible into the hole, letting it cure, then drilling and continuing as before. Unfortunately I only have this 5/8" hole for access and I'm not experienced with concrete—I'm not sure if it will be thin enough for me to get enough down there before it sets. Clarification: this is the ground floor entry way from the street, elevated maybe 3-4’ from ground level and accessed by four steps from the sidewalk. I guess this isn’t “the” slab of the building, but just something odd used for the entry way floor. There is no access underneath the floor. And as to the oddness of the whole thing, hey, 1913 construction in NYC? Not sure. <Q> First - what kind of construction uses a 2" slab for a floor? <S> Trying to get more concrete down there is unlikely without breaking out part of the floor because it needs something to displace in order to do what you want. <S> Even if you got some down there it's very unlikely to hold. <S> Why not go to a 3/8 x 2 1/4 expansion bolt . <S> I know you're rightfully concerned with the 2" slab holding <S> but it should be okay unless that door is a real behemoth. <S> What this does is take advantage of the shear strength of the molly by exerting force laterally when the door strikes the block or stop as opposed to a narrow stop that will want to tilt when it's struck exerting diagonal forces (up and down) on the 2" slab. <S> If you go with an over-sized stop you could also strengthen it by using more than one anchor spreading out the load. <A> You can find drop in anchors made for shallow materials such as this one at McMaster Carr. <S> It accepts a 5/8" thread and requires 2" embedment. <S> You'd just have to cut a short piece of 5/8" threaded rod, thread it into the anchor, then spin on the stop. <A> This is kind of dodgy, but so is a 2" thick concrete floor. <S> Take a 3 foot threaded rod. <S> stick two nuts onto the top end <S> (the top nut should not have any rod protruding). <S> put the tip of the rod into the hole and drive it down into the sand using a heavy hammer, when the nuts reach the floor remove the nuts and squirt a a few cheap tubes of cyanoacrylate glue into the crack. <S> allow 15 minutes for the glue to sent and fit the door stop. <S> and tighten the nuts down, but not too tight. <S> A less dodgy solution could be to pour a mixed two-part casting resin down the hole then insert a 6" threaded rod , the resin will bond the sand together into something concrete-like
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Another option is to improvise an extra large (i.e. 6"x 6") block that you can molly-bolt onto the 2" slab.
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Crooked (Not Parallel with Wall) Electrical Receptacle I recently replaced an electrical receptacle. It was old and the device box was also recessed. So, I added the 1-Gang Outlet Box Spacer Extenders from Home Depot. Now, the receptacle is held tightly in place by the device box rather than against the drywall with a space in between. However, this has revealed that the device box was not mountedparallel with the drywall and the receptacle appears crooked (see photo below). I was thinking of shimming the device box on the side connected to the stud but that would only increase the angle. Does anyone have any suggestions for fixing this angle so that the receptacle and the drywall are parallel? <Q> The tabs on the outlet that the screws go through attaching the outlet to the box are made of somewhat malleable metal. <S> Turn the breaker off to the circuit <S> so there is not ANY power to the box. <S> You should use a non-contact voltage tester to insure that there is no power in the box to any wires. <S> Take off the cover plate. <S> I can usually just grab the outlet with my fingers, i reach in as far as i can and try to push the back of the outlet to one side or the other. <S> In your case you would push the back left side to the right. <S> Sometimes they are stubborn and do not move easily <S> or i can not get a good finger hold <S> so i carefully use a pair of adjustable pliers or a small pry bar to push the back to the side. <S> ( remember the power should be OFF ) Be careful to not crush/crack the outlet. <S> It may take little fiddling <S> but you can straighten it out. <A> At a certain big box home store with blue and white trim, they have a "Silver Steel Wall Plate Spacers" that look like this: <S> These are purpose made for what you are trying to do. <S> The description reads <S> Innovative design helps repair electrical outlets that are too far recessed into the wall. <S> Works with all switches, receptacle, and GFCIs. <S> Installs quickly and easily, bringing devices up to level. <A> The screws aren't able to counter the strength of the solid copper. <S> bend the wires to hold the socket straight and all should fix itself.
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i find that is often the result of the wires not having a proper z bend in them and are pushing the socket out on one side. I find that i can usually manipulate them into alignment.
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How to disconnect air conditioner lines from outdoor unit? I need to temporarily move the outdoor unit to one side to access the wall behind it. Is it possible to do this with basic tools? I just need to disconnect the copper pipes as there's enough slack in the power supply so I can keep the wires connected. <Q> Absolutely not . <S> These lines contain a refrigerant/lubricant mix under pressure. <S> The lines also must have no dirt, water or air in them, i.e. they have to be bled, evacuated to fairly high vacuum and refilled that way. <S> You'd need to invest in a lot of tools specific to refrigeration to do this, e.g. a pump . <A> you can't disconnect those pipes without damaging stuff. <S> but it may be possible to move the unit with them connected. <S> they are a little flexible <A> You may be able to move the condenser without disconnecting the lines, but if you're unsure <S> it's probably not best to try. <S> I was in a similar situation where I needed to replace the siding on that wall of the house, but the AC condenser was only about 6 inches away from the wall. <S> I was able to move the condenser about 2' away from the wall by simultaneously moving it away from the wall and lifting it up off the ground. <S> While holding it in the air, I slid a temporary platform I constructed underneath the unit. <S> I managed to do this all on my own with a 3 ton unit, but it was difficult. <S> Two to three people would certainly have be preferable. <S> I think the determining factor if you can do this <S> is how much "slack" you have in your lines. <S> In my case, the lines ran up into the soffit, so I had about 8' that I could work with. <A> I'm a professional HVAC tech and I have successfully done this. <S> Just keep in mind if you cause too much torque and flex on those Flare nut connections they will leak. <S> So I recommend if you're going to do it <S> you have one person holding those line still while the other person spins the other end of the unit <S> 90 degrees <S> But as always the best answer is call a professional <A> Knowingly releasing refrigerants into the atmosphere is illegal and could subject you to significant fines . <S> Moving the unit with the knowledge that you are likely to crack the lines may be considered "knowingly".
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Please have a licensed service person remove the lines and purge the system in a legal and safe manner, it will save you money in the long run. If you're very careful with it you can spin it 90 degrees making sure that the refrigerant lines are your axis and they don't move very much but the whole other end of the unit will be out of your way.
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How to install a Wemo Three-way light switch in this configuration? I currently have this configuration in my home and I would like to replace the left switch with a wemo three-way Smart light switch. I'm not able to find any information online on how to do this with the smart switch. It works with 2 regular three-way switch. Update: I uploaded a picture of the outlets for all to see. Box 1 contains 3 cables entering. 14/2 Source, 14/2 Light Fixture, 14/3 going to Box 2. Smart Switch: Source power goes to black to Common on Switch 2 Traveler 1 on Smart Switch to Red traveler going to bass screw on Switch 2 Traveler 2 on Smart Switch to White traveler going to brass screw on Switch 2 Ground to all ground Source Neutral to Light Fixture and Smart Switch Source Power to Black cable going to Common on Switch 2 Box 2: Red travler to brass screw White traveler to brass screw Black power to Common Ground to Ground Issue: If Switch 2 is "ON" then smart switch can turn the lights on and off. If Switch 2 is "OFF" then smart switch cannot turn the lights on. <Q> You would wire up the smart 3-way switch as shown in the picture below. <S> I am showing the connectivity and did not show the various wire nuts that will be required to connect the wires on the switch to the existing wires in the box. <A> It's very common for people to snatch one of those diagrams off the Web, and say their wiring is exactly like that. <S> Probably not "exactly" . <S> The first task is to identify the travelers. <S> Wire colors in 3-way circuits can be anything . <S> Each of the old 3-way switches will have 2 brass screws and 1 black screw. <S> I strongly recommend color-coding in situations like this, and to mark the traveler wires with yellow tape. <S> Both travelers can be marked the same since they are interchangeable. <S> Do this on both switches; they should be the same pair of colors on both ends. <S> If you've already dismantled the old 3-ways, put them back on temporarily, wired <S> so they work absolutely 100% on both ends. <S> When they do, mark the travelers. <S> Don't shortcut this process or make assumptions; they will blow up in your face later. <S> Now look at the third wire that is in the cable with the travelers. <S> Is it white? <S> Does it go only to other white wires? <S> If so leave it alone. <S> Does it go to a switch or to any black wires? <S> If so, re-mark that white wire with black tape on both ends -- this mark is required by law. <S> If you know for a fact that it is switched-hot (hot only when the light is on), I prefer to mark it with red tape. <S> Now, with those marked, look at any white wires that remain. <S> Do any of them go to switches or to black wires? <S> If so, then Houston, we have a problem. <S> We will not be able to install this switch on this 3-way complex. <S> Stop entirely; you cannot continue. <S> You will need to pull additional cable, post pictures of the insides of your boxes and we can advise. <S> Ok, so now all travelers are marked, as are any white non-neutral wires. <S> We know we have power coming through a 3-way box, because white wires remain. <S> At this point, this is straightforward. <S> On the Wemo, mark the red and blue "traveler" wires with yellow tape. <S> Add green to existing bare or green ground wires. <S> Add white to existing white neutral wires. <S> pull the 2 yellow travelers off the old 3-way and attach it to the yellow wires on the Wemo. <S> Which you re-marked. <S> one wire remains on the old 3-way. <S> Remove it and attach it to Wemo black. <A> My wiring was fine. <S> The smart switch was defective. <S> Replaced it with a new one <S> and it’s working.
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You cannot install the smart 3-way switch in the box at the right because there is no neutral there.
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Is the electrical outlet by my kitchen sink supposed to be protected by a GFCI? Aren't all electrical outlets near sinks supposed to have a safety reset switch? This one is for the garbage disposal but also has outlets for electrical equipment. Should I call an electrician or just unplug the night light and can opener? It doesn't seem up to code like this. <Q> If there is an upstream GFCI device protecting that outlet it is fine. <S> See if any other outlet in the kitchen has a test and reset button, when you test it <S> and it trips <S> does the outlet by the sink also lose power? <S> If so then the outlet is protected by the GFCI. <S> The GFCI device can also be the breaker in the panel feeding the circuit. <S> So check there as well. <S> If you find that they are protected by GFCI take your label printer and print out a "GFCI protected" label to put on the outlet. <A> It depends on the year the house was build. <S> The requirement for GFCI protection within 6’ from a sink was adopted in the 70’s. <S> The protection may be in the breaker panel if the home is newer, the breaker will have a test button. <S> If your house was built prior to the GFCI requirement you can replace that receptacle with a GFCI receptacle and meet current code. <A> As installed, this would be a Code violation if the kitchen was built or renovated since the GFCI requirement was added to Code; or, if your locality requires GFCI retrofit in kitchens and bathrooms as a condition of sale . <S> If so, it requires <S> either Somewhere else, there is a GFCI device which is providing protection to this outlet, and, this outlet has a sticker that says "GFCI Protected". <S> Or There is the GFCI receptacle you expect to find. <S> It is not as simple as "no GFCI recep = no GFCI". <S> A GFCI device anywhere can confer GFCI protection to any other location it's fed to. <S> GFCIs have special terminals called LOAD for that very purpose (they shouldn't be used for anything else). <S> However, dumb home inspectors won't even use a GFCI tester to see if the sticker is missing; they just say "Hup, you need a GFCI receptacle here". <S> Realistically, the stickers fall off -- or are removed by homeowners who thought it ugly. <S> Or they were never applied in the first place (99% of the time lol). <S> You don't want to put a GFCI on a GFCI, because that makes for annoying problems when you try to reset them. <A> Installations must meet current regulations whenever you modify a circuit. <S> Undersink receptacles for a disposal or dishwasher would be subject to the 6' rule. <S> The NEC requirement for protection does not specify a receptacle at every location, or even a receptacle at all. <S> Everything connected to the load terminals of a receptacle behaves just like anything plugged into the front of the receptacle. <S> States, counties, and even cities can determine when and which edition and modifications to codes they adopt. <S> The 2020 NEC is available now, and slowly beginning to be adopted, but some places are even still using the 2008 edition. <A> A tip: We recently wired our kitchen (in a new extension). <S> We did it ourselves and just cut to the chase by installing a GFCI/AFCI breaker . <S> The breaker is a bit pricey, but cheaper than installing individual GFCI/AFCI (or whatever) outlets. <A> Meaning the top and bottom plug are not connected to the same 'leg' of electrical power at the panel (the receptacle will have the tab broken off that ties the top and bottom hots together). <S> Quite likely it is fed by a three wire cable (l1, l2, neutral, and bare ground). <S> This means that a gfci plug will not work as a replacement due to the shared neutral. <S> Older homes this setup was comman and met code, and does not need to be updated necessarily. <S> If you find the breaker that feeds this receptacle at the panel it will be (or should be) a double pole breaker, where the breaker handle shuts of both legs simultaneously (so that you can't mistakenly shut off only 1 leg of power to the junction box)
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The whole circuit could be protected by a circuit breaker, or the wires feeding a location could be fed from the "load" terminals of another GFCI receptacle. I do install GFCI’s in cases like this as it makes sense even though code does not require older houses to be updated. Pressing the test buttons on local receptacles or buttons on breakers in your panel may safely interrupt the power, but a tester designed for the purpose is generally works best, and is a one-step method to determine if protected. The requirements tthat were adopted locally when last modified are pretty hard to determine. The 2017 NEC (which is the edition most jurisdictions are now enforcing*) requires "Ground-Fault Circuit-Interrupter" protection for all kitchen receptacles that serve countertop surfaces, and receptacles within 6' of any sink. *The NFPA (National Fire Protection Association) which owns the NEC has no enforcement authority. you will need a new cover plate that would fit a GFCI and switch but we are talking under 20$ for both unless you get a fancy plate. Chances are that the receptacle is a split receptacle.
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Fitting add on blinds to rear door I am trying to fit add on, enclosed blinds ( like these ) to the rear door of my new home. I have not been able to find a set of blinds that fit appropriately and I am not sure why. I've returned 2 sets so far. Is this a non-standard door? Using the measurements below where can I purchase blinds that actually fit? Is there a type of enclosed blind that has the narrow clearance I need to fit it with the door hardware? Are there other, equally effective solutions for putting privacy blinds on this door? I want to avoid blinds that slap against the door when it is opened and closed. Window Frame Measurements: Inside frame Vertical: 63 in. (approx) Horizontal: 21 in. (approx) Outside frame Vertical: 66 in. Horizontal: 23 3/4 in. Distance to hardware from frame Door handle: 1/2 in (approx) Deadbolt: 3/4 in (approx) Pictures: Full door frame: Inside vertical measurement: Inside horizontal measurement: Outside vertical measurement: Outside horizontal measurement: Handle to frame measurement: Deadbolt to frame measurement: <Q> You just need to have the blinds cut to size, many home stores even big box can cut custom sizes. <S> To avoid blind slap some blinds come with lower mounts that hold the bottom bar in place. <S> This limits the blind to twisting them to horizontal for open or verticals for closed. <S> And can be raised and lowered <A> I want to avoid blinds that slap against the door when it is opened and closed. <S> You could use normal blinds, but velcro the bottom of the blinds to the doorframe. <S> It's mildly more work than normal blinds, but it eliminates the slapping and is easy enough to detach and raise. <S> Going in a different direction, another idea would be applying privacy window film to the door's window. <S> That gives you privacy but doesn't do much for sun glare. <A> Self answering! <S> I finally brought my measurements with me to Home Depot and sure enough they had what I needed! <S> I wasn’t sure it was going to fit during the installation <S> but the blinds turned out to be perfect, real snug. <S> In my circumstances I needed to order 24”x66” blinds (which seem obvious). <S> I should have brought my measurements and pictures the first time! <S> Here are the blinds installed: <S> And here is the packaging for the ODL product I ultimately needed: Thanks again for the help everyone!
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Some higher end blinds actually have rails that contain the blind and bottom and keep it in place.
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Hot water without hot water supply and electricity I have a tap in a room where I only have a cold water supply. Also I don't have current electricity nearby. Is there any way to provide at least lukewarm water there? <Q> Install a holding tank or a coil of supply line, hidden under the sink. <S> It wouldn't last long, it'd only be ambient temperature at best, and its recovery would probably be hours, but it would be above the incoming water temperature at least long enough to wash your hands without getting frostbite. <A> Yes. <S> Bosch makes mini hot water heaters that have a standard plug. <S> You can run a heavy-duty extension cord to operate it with the proper amount of amps (they are listed on the cord heater and on new cords), but long term you should have an electric outlet installed by an electrician. https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Electric-Mini-Tank-Heater-2-5-Gallon/dp/B0148O658Y/ref=asc_df_B0148O658Y/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198079373928&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10364721406833964669&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9006798&hvtargid=pla-319346703050&psc=1 <A> Propane is a portable fuel source that can power water heaters in remote locations. <S> It may not be economically feasible day after day over long term use but it certainly does not require electricity and it certainly will provide hot water. <S> I understand this requires a rooftop water tank and some solar panels.
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Alternatively, rooftop solar water heaters can generate electricity enough to heat water.
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Can heat cause a GFCI to trip? I have a GFCI in the garage. There are several outlets downstream of it, most of which are outside, with covers on. Despite the covers, sometimes the rain can get in and trip the GFCI. Strangely enough, this pattern only happens in the summer. It rains in the winter too, so why is my GFCI not tripping when it rains heavily in the winter? The circuit normally has two fridges connected directly to the GFCI, and a computer downstream, and nothing else. In the summer, once it trips for whatever reason, even removing everything else from the circuit, it will still trip afterwards. This is how I found that moisture could get into the outlets outside. Yes, fridges work hard in the summer, but the GFCI still trips with nothing on the circuit. Note: The coil on the fridge (hot part) is facing the GFCI about a foot away. I get that fridge compressors can trip the GFCI. I get the moisture tripping the GFCI with nothing else on the circuit. But why is the summer season a factor? Edit Aug16 2020: I found the source of the tripping. I found a mystery box on a wall with a blank plate and a vertical PVC pipe running into the ground. The pipe had broken, allowing rainwater to get in. Although the wiring is insulated, there might be a knick in the romex further down, or some underground junction. It is possible that the heat difference between outside/underground caused some condensation to form somewhere bad. I prevented large droplets from being able to get in the gap, and the tripping has largely stopped. I was also confused by the color of the visible wiring, as the sun caused the yellow wiring jacket, used elsewhere on the garage circuit, had faded and appeared white, making me think it was an unrelated circuit. <Q> No they are not temperature sensitive. <S> What may explain this: Are the GFCI receptacles rated Weather Resistant? <S> WR receptacles have the electronics potted so moisture is not a problem. <A> Remove the fridges from the GFCI <S> This is actually a health & safety problem. <S> If the trip were unnoticed for awhile, the fridge would warm up and bacteria would bloom. <S> If it were then reset, the food would re-chill and not seem spoiled. <S> A fridge is not the use-case for GFCI anyway. <S> It's well-grounded, the electrical parts are totally inaccessible, and you're not likely to drop it in a sink! <S> Humidity is doing it <S> Most likely, it's not rainwater. <S> It's condensation, accompanited with big temperature swings in the condensing range. <S> Humid air gets into the receps due to barometric pressure changes (or just wind). <S> Then it cools off and the moisture condenses. <A> As a layperson, I am skeptical that GFIs work in heat. <S> It was 118° here 3 days ago and <S> 114° most of this week. <S> I just took and infrared temp reading of the OUTSIDE of our Electric Pedestals, and they read 148°. <S> I can only imagine the temperature inside where the electronics of the GFI are. <S> (Possibly close to 180°) <S> I have a small RV Park that caters to Senior Snowbirds. <S> I have 57 GFIs outdoors alone on the property, that as of today I am giving up on. <S> For years I have replaced them so many times it is unfathomable. <S> The only one that uses them is us, to plug in things like hedge trimmers and yard equipment. <S> It says in the Park Rules, that they are not to be used by our guests. <S> Today I went out to try to find one out of the 57 that worked and could not. <S> Some should be brand new, not used. <S> I use to replace them all the time on a one by one bases. <S> But I am over it.
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In summer with higher humidity non WR GFCI receptacle’s May trip from moisture but not heat.
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How to fit curtain poles so they won't be pulled down by children? I am putting up a curtain across a large gap, to separate two rooms in my open plan house. I'm concerned about the weight of the curtains combined with children passing through it everyday and don't want to see it pulled down. It's 4.6kg for the curtain + pole. Walls are brick and plaster board. What type of fixing will a strong enough? Will normal screws + rawl plugs be strong enough or they will just get pulled out once some weight is put on them? <Q> "It's 4.6kg for the curtain + pole" + a hundred pounds of children (or one or more idiot adults). <S> That calls for steel pipe and structural pipe base , preferably threaded and not setscrew, 1" or larger, with long enough masonry screws to embed 1" into the masonry. <S> If it's in a 'curtain catalogue', that's not good enough. <S> If it needs to not fall down, then it needs to be able to take me doing pull-ups on it, which is a base prerequisite for anything I mount in a home. <S> If it's not going to be, then it should be flimsy enough that falling on someone's head won't definitely kill them. <S> If it isn't going to be flimsy, then you'd better mount-the-shit-out-of-it. <S> It basically is a pull-up/grab bar, and some poor sod is going to use it as such eventually. <A> Taking a shot here. <S> I'll assume your doorway is double width, 5 feet or so. <S> You described the walls as "brick and plaster board". <S> If you are attaching to brick using expansion type fasteners <S> it'll require some heavy drilling but <S> the brackets you put up should be very secure. <S> If the door is framed in wood, some good wood screws will do it. <S> The key here is the width of the door. <S> Even at 5 feet (abt 1.5m) with a 4.6kg curtain you'll probably want to support the rod at the center with a hanger which should be available at most hardware or drapery stores where you bought the rod. <S> If the door is a lot wider you may have to go to two hanging supports or more. <S> Good luck with the kids. <A> there's genrally lots of wood near a door in a plaster wall, the bigger the door <S> the more wood there is. <S> Find the wood and attach your rod brackets through the plaster to the wood. <S> Expanding plugs do tend to pull out of brick. <S> Expanding bolts tend to outlast the brick, some are avaiable with countersunk heads (so externally they look like screws), there are also those brick screws that are pretty good.
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The variables are the width of the gap, the surface you are attaching to, the weight of the curtain (4.6kg) and your ability to keep the kids from swinging on them. If you're going into drywall within the door frame the 2x door framing behind the drywall will give you sufficient support with normal wood screws.
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Pulling Wires Through a Plastic Tube I have a 2 meters long plastic tube with 8 mm inner diameter, and I need to pull 5 wires with a 6 mm diameter silicone tube through it. But all the different ways I tried were unsuccessful and It made me really frustrated. What is the best way you propose for doing this? I have limits in choosing a larger diameter plastic tube.As you can see in the picture, although being slightly tight, there is enough space for pulling them through the tube. Thanks. <Q> If you have access to a shop vac or other vac, try sucking a strong string thru first, then tape the end to your group of wires & tube and pull it thru. <A> The maximum conduit fill allowed is 40% of cross section, when 3 or more wires are used. <S> The reason is to prevent jams and wire damage due to jams. <S> You're way, way, way over maximum. <S> Comms-only wires are exempt from this (i.e. not PoE), but I have a feeling those power something , and regardless, the exemption for comms wires does nothing to cure the practical reason for the rule, which is jamming, which is the source of your frustration. <S> I don't even see how you're going to pull it; you have to splice to the pull wire <S> somewhere <S> with quite a strong splice <S> (can those little wires handle the pull?) <S> and that splice will be lumpier than the wires alone. <S> The outer tube must be larger, and/or the inside tube must be smaller. <A> Feed a strong string through the tube (eg builder's twine) and tie it round the bundle near the end with a sheep-shank, back that up with several half-hitches until you get to the near end. <S> theses knots must be tight, Tie the other wend of the string to a fixed anchor (eg <S> a tree, or a post, or a vise, or a door-knob) lay out all the part in a straight line the draw the tube over the bundle. <S> Doing it this way keeps everythjing straight. <S> if it doesn't add some talc that should help a lot, talc is ofen used as a lubricant inside electric cables.
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It's helpful to loosely tie some knots on the start of the string to give the vacuum something to "grab on to". We have rules for this The silicone has a fairly high friction, against the wires and the plastic tube but as it stretches its diameter reduces so it should pull in ok.
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Can I use 12-2 wire on a 20amp breaker to power an entire bathroom? I have a half bathroom I was going to power with a dedicated 20 amp circuit breaker. I was going to use the 20 amp breaker to power: vanity light shelf light (Phillips hue light strip) outlet bathroom fan I was curious if this is frowned upon or even allowed? More specifically if using 12-2 to power my vanity light, and light strips is unsafe or “too much power” I was under the impression 14-2 is typically used to power these sort of things so I was unsure what is preferable and safe. Any help would be appreciated <Q> You must use 12AWG with a 20A breaker for this run <S> Your "half-bath" is still a bathroom by the NEC's definition, as it has a toilet and a basin <S> aka sink: <S> Bathroom. <S> An area including a basin with one or more of the following: a toilet, a urinal, a tub, a shower, a bidet, or similar plumbing fixtures. <S> As a result, the fact you have a receptacle on this circuit makes it a bathroom branch circuit, which falls under NEC 210.11(C)(3) and the Exception thereto: (3) Bathroom Branch Circuits. <S> Such circuits shall have no other outlets. <S> Exception: <S> Where the 20-ampere circuit supplies a single bathroom, outlets for other equipment within the same bathroom shall be permitted to be supplied in accordance with 210.23(A)(1) and (A)(2). <S> This requires the circuit to be a 20A circuit, run using 12AWG wire throughout. <S> It's not at all rare or unusual, by the way, to have a single bathroom powered entirely by a dedicated 20A branch circuit as you describe, so don't worry about any silly notions of providing "too much power" to the lights. <S> The only things you'll need to know is that the bath fan needs to draw no more than 10A in order to comply with the 50% rule in NEC 210.23(A)(2): <S> (2) Utilization Equipment Fastened in Place. <S> The total rating of utilization equipment fastened in place, other than luminaires, shall not exceed 50 percent of the branch-circuit ampere rating where lighting units, cord-and-plug-connected utilization equipment not fastened in place, or both, are also supplied. <S> Note that you'll need an AFCI for your 20A breaker, and will probably want to bring power to a two gang box at the vanity for the GFCI receptacle and lightswitch, with separate 12/2 runs going from there to the lights/fan. <S> If you only have a single gang box installed, and can't change it, you can still do this, but you'll be stuck with a GFCI/switch combo, which means your fan and lights will be on the same switch, stopping you from having a timer for the fan. <A> You are right on target with a 20 amp breaker and 12/2 with ground. <S> You don't want 15 amps in bathrooms or kitchens due to heavy current draws from appliances and hair dryers. <S> A 20 amp circuit in your bathroom should allow you to draw about 1900 watts safely (120v x 20 amps x 80%). <S> Your lights and bathroom fan won't draw very much. <S> Hair dryers vary but most don't draw more than 1500 watts or so - and that is only intermittently. <S> Importantly you want to make sure that all of your bathroom outlets are GFCI protected. <S> This can be done at the breaker if it's a dedicated circuit or by installing a GFCI protected outlet in the bathroom. <S> There is one advantage in protecting at the breaker - it will protect the entire circuit. <S> The downside is if it trips the lights and fan will lose power as well as the outlets. <A> 14-2 requires a 15A breaker. <S> Code requires a 20A breaker on bathroom receptacles, so 14-2 is out of the question. <S> 14-2 could be used for the hardwired loads, but then, you'd need a #12 20A circuit for the receps. <S> Bathroom receptacles have some special rules. <S> They can only be on two kinds of circuits. <S> One of the allowed types is your "dedicated to one bathroom" circuit: the same circuit can serve recep loads there, and also hardwired loads in that same bathroom. <S> That may be a problem from a usability point-of-view.
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In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, at least one 120-volt, 20-ampere branch circuit shall be provided to supply the bathroom(s) receptacle outlet(s). Unless you have one of those fancy heated bath fans, you shouldn't have any problem meeting this rule, as an ordinary bath fan only draws a few amps. However, if you trip that breaker, the lights will go out. However, you probably will want to protect with a GFCI at the outlet.
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Three way switch with two common wires? Im currently trying to upgrade two three-way light switches in the kitchen to some new smart three-way switches. The issue I have run into though is that there appears to be two common wires on one of the switches? The other switch has just one common but this one appears to have two. See picture below. Picture shows the old switch with the wires already disconnected. Any idea which one is which here? I believe the two wires on top are the traveler wires but not sure about the bottom two. <Q> Notice how the two terminals are brass? <S> Those are travelers. <S> Every 3-way switch circuit is different. <S> Colors are totally inconsistent in 3-way switches, the next one you see might have red and white travelers. <S> It's not unusual to have 2 wires on the common terminal; that is simply the supply being split off to also supply something else. <S> That is more clear if it uses a pigtail , and feel free to convert it to a pigtail if you prefer. <S> You have to be especially careful with smart-switch 3-ways. <S> There are many cases where the smart switch is not going to work in that box or even that application. <S> Move slowly, document carefully, and if you get stuck on one, ask us a question and post pictures of what's going on inside both switch boxes. <A> In your photo the the round holes you've circled at the top are the backstabs for the travelers for the switch. <S> They're quick connection terminals that are known to be unreliable. <S> You want to shepherd hook the wire and hook it around the brass screw terminals and tighten the screws. <S> It's a good idea to tape the travelers with some yellow tape for future identification. <S> You wouldn't want to use the backstabs <S> so you'd pigtail the feed with a wire nut and connect to the black screw. <S> Hope this helps. <A> I’ll second the motion NOT to use the quick push-in connectors. <S> It’s asking for trouble down the line. <S> Quick way to get your 3-way wires <S> right: the hot feed wire will always go to a common (differently colored) switch screw. <S> The common screw on the other switch will always feed the light(s). <A> Sometimes there are multiple light wires in one switch box. <S> Then a tail can be used or both can be put on the common screw, depends on the local code and/or if it was followed. <A> Always identify screw color 2 brass = <S> travelers (x2), and black screw is common for the switch leg or for the lack of better terms <S> the hot wire that supplys power to the lighting array and the opposite switch has the constant hot and of course the travelers from the aformentioned switch. <S> And always after the screw color id, always replace one wire at a time for beginners. <A> If you look carefully the bottom screw should have com beside in small lettering. <S> The other two are travelers. <S> Smart switches are wired differently. <S> Here is a video that explains it. <S> Worth the watch. <S> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=qi6o8v3rJug
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Every 3-way switch configuration is different. You'll save yourself a world of confusion if you get a 5-color pack of electrical tape and mark the traveler wires yellow. The bottom black screw is the common terminal along with two backstabs for continuing the feed if needed.
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Can you build a retaining wall vertically with no angle? I am planning to redo our front steps in stone and my plan is to essentially have two stone walls on each side of the steps coming down from the entrance. For appearances it would be definitely ideal to keep these walls completely vertical for the aesthetic, but I am worried that the weight of the compacted gravel under the steps will be too much of a force pushing on the wall. PLUS, since were up in Canada, I'm concerned that water that inevitably gets into the gravel will push those walls outwards when it freezes. Is there anything I can do to keep it vertical or is that a pipe dream? Thanks for your help! <Q> I have built many vertical retaining walls. <S> Drainage is the first concern then the height. <S> Code may require rails over several feet (in my area 3' is the max). <S> You did not specify the number of steps or the rise (if more than 3' even with drainage usually reinforcements are required). <S> With some walls this is drilled holes that are pinned together. <S> Some are mortar. <S> So yes you can go vertical but more information is needed on the height and conditions to give a specific recommendation. <A> if the walls are close to the steps they could support the treads directly. <S> the steps could be hollow underneath instead of gravel fill. <S> alternatively mix some cement with <S> that gravel fill it'll stand up on its own then. <A> Drainage will keep the water away from the backside. <S> Typically, non-reinforced walls, like the rock wall that you want to do, are often sloped slightly backward. <S> They resist the soil simply through dead weight and gravity. <S> If you want to be sure, consult a structural engineer.
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Vertical concrete walls are common but require reinforcing (due to tension forces) and an adequate footing that resists both overturning and sliding.
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Does unthreaded portion of bolts fit through hole? I'm getting replacement for some M5 x 30mm hex bolts. The original ones are fully threaded, i.e. the whole shank length. The ones I can find have an unthreaded portion (i.e. grip) but their overall length matches the original. I wonder if the unthreaded portion can also fit through the hole because I need the whole length inside the wedge that the bolt goes into. Or does the bolt stop where the threaded portion ends? <Q> Unthreaded portions of bolts are generally just a tick under their nominal diameter. <S> So an 8mm bolt might be 7.8mm across the shaft. <S> Typically, the OD of threaded areas is smaller than that, so it might be an issue. <S> You also have the possibility of bottoming out the threads if the screw goes deep into the threaded portion. <A> How much clearance do you have between the threaded portion and the hole you want to insert the bolt in? <S> In most cases,the shank is cut first and then the threads are cut so the threaded portion will usually be a bit smaller than the shank. <S> If the threaded portion fits snugly into the hole, you'll have a problem. <S> If it's a loose fit, you'll be OK. <S> You might want to get a caliper or micrometer to check the difference in diameter of the threaded portion of your existing bolts and the shanks of the new ones. <A> Most bolts that have an unthreaded portion or shank are designed that the shank is to support the shear loads and provide more loadbearing surface than just threads. <S> The shank is usually larger or the same as the outer diameter of the thread so it fits reasonably tightly in the holes of the pieces to be secured. <S> Thise pieces are designed so the depth of theunthreaded portions match the length of the shank.
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So if your piece is fully threaded then you need fully threaded bolts or bolts with a turned down shank.
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Why don't HVAC service people want to use outdoor temperature sensors to increase efficiency? Here in central Virginia, most houses use heat pumps with electric auxiliary heat. I have inquired with several different contractors about installing outdoor thermostats on my units to 1) disable the use of auxiliary heat above a set outdoor temperature and/or 2) stop the outdoor compressor from running below a set outdoor temperature. No one I talk to thinks it a good idea or they have not done it before. Looking at the schematics and examining the current wiring it seems fairly simple and the parts are very cheap. It seems like running the compressor when it's too cold to do its job and running the expensive electric heat strips when the compressor is much more efficient and able to do the job just seem like a lot of wasted energy. There are manufacturers that make outdoor thermostat controls that are designed to do exactly what I am looking for and can be purchased at my local HVAC supply. (one Example :TPI # LRD100A) My question is why wouldn't you want to do this? Are there downsides that I'm not seeing? (besides possible personal comfort) <Q> When a heat pump is installed it should be set up to turn on the electric heat strips when it drops below the point where the heat pump is more efficient. <S> This is calculated on the units performance which should be specified based on the predicted (Charted) lowest anticipated temperature for your area. <S> If it is using the compressor it will defrost either according to a time schedule or, on more efficient models, when it senses the outdoor coil is too cold and needs to be defrosted. <S> When it does this, it turns off the outdoor fan and reverses the flow of refrigerant into cooling mode. <S> It activates the heat strips to keep the air inside running warm. <S> When it reaches a set temperature or after a set period of time, it will change back into heating mode. <S> They showed us this in my Residential HVAC Technician Class last year. <S> Should do everything you want it to. <S> All in one universal replacement heat pump defrost controller with included sensors can be set up for demand or timed defrosts. <S> https://climate.emerson.com/documents/47d01u-843-universal-heat-pump-defrost-control-specs-en-us-1569854.pdf <S> About $81 on Amazon. <A> If the temp dropped while the compressor was running, you would hear a hissing sound when it would shut itself off. <S> I grew up with gas heat <S> so there was always hot air blowing regardless of the outdoor temp. <S> I mentioned this to the HVAC guy and he wired the auxiliary heat to kick on every time the system kicked on. <S> That way I didn't have to pay attention to the outdoor temperature and know when to flick the switch. <S> By doing it this way, I really didn't notice much change to the power bill as the system would run slightly shorter cycles. <S> Perhaps this could be done for yours. <A> I had a Nest thermostat at my last home <S> and it does exactly what you're suggesting. <S> Because it uses Wi-fi, there is no need for an outdoor sensor - it gets the temperature from the internet. <S> The setpoints at which it locks out the aux heat (above a certain temp) and compressor (below a certain temp) are adjustable. <S> So if you don't want that feature, just set them to extremes.
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The one place that I lived at where it had a heat pump did have a auto-stop on the compressor so that it would not run below freezing temps.
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Does anyone know the name of this tool? Can any one name this tool? Found it online and haven't found anything yet. <Q> You asked, Does anyone know the name of this tool? <S> That tool is called a scorp. <S> Specifically, that scorp looks like it is designed for block print carving, the act of cutting an image out of a block of wood or a thick piece of leather to be used in printmaking. <S> Scorps are different from gouges or other carving tools in that they're meant to be drawn (pulled) towards yourself, instead of pushed away. <S> Other, larger scorps are made by bending larger flat blank into an oval or rounded shape: <S> These are meant for carving out the hollows in a spoon or other "dishing" actions. <S> Some scorps resemble really tiny draw knives, and are used like draw knives, but with a single handle (versus one on each end of a draw knife): <S> Confusingly, some larger scorps do actually have two handles, which essentially makes them a curved version of a typically-flat drawknife: <S> Sometimes they are designed to be used by one hand or the other, and are open on one side, not forming a complete loop. <S> For example, this is a "right handed" scorp: <A> It is likely to be a wood or leather carving tool, seen many similar, but can be used for other materials. <A> I have one with 2 sides and used it to install the rear window on my 1956 Chevy wraparound rear window. <S> It installs the gasket into the groove and locks the glass I to the opening. <S> Similar to this https://www.classicindustries.com/product/153818.html
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It could be a windshield locking strip tool.
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Identifying live and neutral wire of an old lamp So I have this old wall lamp with a different color code that I'm used to: There are 2 brown wires welded together and a separate dark brown wire. As seen on the picture the 2 brown wires leads to the light bulbs and at the connector / switch it says "2A / 250V" meanwhile at the dark brown wire it says "A1 / 31". The thread on the picture is the switch, to be pulled up and down. I'm not sure how to go about it and I rather not risk it so I turn to your wisdom instead! <Q> Unscrew the bulbs and see which wire is connected to the side-contact that contacts the thread of the bulb using a continuity tester. <S> That one is the wire you want to be the neutral. <S> That way the live contact is buried deep within the socket and harder to reach by inquisitive fingers. <S> The dark brown looks to be the ground connection. <S> Check that it has continuity to the metal housing to verify. <A> Test with a multimeter - every time, even if you think you know which is which. <S> I have nearly been caught out by amateurs doing it wrong... <S> So, test and stay safe. <A> For a lamp, you want the neutral to connect to the outer threaded part of the bulb socket. <S> You want the switch on the live wire so when it is switched off there will be less potential for something to go wrong. <S> Cut the messy end off the dark brown wire so that it can be stripped back neatly and connect it to the live feed. <S> Mains wires shouldn't really be soldered together. <S> If the connector in the wall gives you the opportunity, you could cut off the soldered joint and fix each wire into its own connector - or use a Wago connector for stranded wire which has enough holes. <S> I am not a qualified electrician. <A> The two brown wires "welded" together appear to be the neutrals and should be hooked to the white wire or neutral. <S> The single brown wire appears to come from the switch and should be the feed and should be hooked to the black, hot, wire. <S> You always want to switch the hot feed. <S> The other two brown wires appear to go into the load side of the switch. <S> It's meant to be installed hanging on a wall because of the keyhole notch at the top. <S> There should be some sort of bracket/cover that goes over the back to cover the wires and the feed, black and white wires, would come from a properly mounted box on the wall. <S> It doesn't look like it was meant to have a cord go out the bottom and plug into an outlet along with the pull string, but could be done this way. <S> There isn't a ground wire that I can see but one could be added.
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The switched hot wires should connect to the center contact in the bottom of the socket. You could /should verify this as ratchet freak suggests. Ideally, get a qualified electrician to install it for you. Installing this will be tricky.
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Name for a T-shaped piece of hardware with a screw hole in a "shaft" What is the name of a hardware piece like on the drawing, with a thread in the hole? I need it to mount a guide wheel for a sliding door, like on the picture below: UPD: replaced the picture with a drawing. <Q> There is no common name for what you describe; it is not a standard type of hardware. <S> That's why the supplier in your link used a self-describing name (" <S> T Shaped Shelf Support Holder Bracket") instead of some common term. <A> If the mounting hole is in the shaft, is the "T" necessary? <S> Closest <S> I could find is pictured below. <A> The hardware in the photo you posted are floating shelf brackets or floating shelf hardware. <S> I have never seen nor can I find any that have threaded hole in the shaft. <S> Sometimes the shelf that slips over the shaft has a hole in the bottom with a Allen key set screw that tightens up against the shaft To keep the shelf from sliding off of the bracket. <S> Some also have a leveling adjustment component built in. <S> If you need one with a threaded hole then your best bet is to take those two a machine shop and have a hole drilled and tapped with threads. <S> Another option would be to buy some and drill your holes and get a tap and die set and thread them yourself. <S> To do it yourself you will need a drill press or a drill and a vice, metal drilling drill bits and lubrication oil, A set punch, and a tap and die tool set. <S> EDIT: <S> based on the updated information in the question I found this product <S> If this is not exactly what you’re looking for then use the term <S> ** <S> sliding door roller guide <S> ** to search the Internet. <A> The name is "Slab-based T-nut" or "Slab-based nut". <S> Thanks to @SolarMike for pointing out in the right direction (T-nut).
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Product and equipment manufacturers custom make all types of unique and specific parts, not all of them have common names.
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I want to install generic capability for future car charging. What 240v outlet on the outside of the house is acceptable? I am wiring an old house with new wires and want to have an outlet outside for charging a potential electric car. There is no carport or roof overhang, so weather resistance is important. The wall is still fully open to studs and I have full access to inside and outside of the wall. I was considering a stove or dryer outlet. The house has 100 amp service, but everything inside is on propane, so I would never draw more than 30 amps during normal home use. <Q> In my humble opinion, I'd run #6-3 w/ground from the panel to a outlet box accessible from the outside and just cover it with a water tight cover. <S> Wait until you get your car and then get the breaker and outlet according to the specs for your car. <S> If you're running conduit, run a 1" conduit from panel to outlet box and pull the wire later on when you know the specs. <A> But you can never be sure. <S> It might require a 14-50 or 14-30. <S> The "universal donor" cable would be a 6/3 copper. <S> This will allow up to 60A (though, 60A would be hardwired). <S> Some EV chargers are hardwired. <S> As far as the breaker, they all cost $10 (assuming your panel has space ). <S> So you could buy one pre-emptively, but I would just wait. <S> I certainly hope you picked up on the importance of extra spaces in a panel from countless discussions here and elsewhere. <S> Spaces are dirt cheap at install time; <S> not so cheap later, so I recommend you finish with almost half your spaces unused. <S> Although there's nothing wrong with just adding a subpanel; if well-placed it can even cut down on long wire runs, so can pay for itself in wire. <S> I concur with your assessment that you are unlikely to draw more than 30A much, or to be more precise, I see no trouble with your house supporting a 60A EV charger. <A> Something commonly installed outside with the amperage that you need would be a 50A RV hookup. <S> If you search for what that requires, you'll find weatherproof enclosures and the expectation that everything will be outside and weathertight. <S> I also think that since it is such a common setup that a future charger might even have some sort of adapter to make install easier. <S> Even if not, the 50A outlet can be easily removed to hardwire the charger. <A> Yeah, that sounds stupid but it is the way the world works. <S> Having installed wiring for my Tesla, I can offer a recommendation similar to Harper's. <S> It's unlikely that you will want or need more than 240V <S> X 60 Amps for any car <S> (until you move up to a Level 3 Supercharger -type system, and that's a seriously different cost bracket). <S> So, install a breaker & wiring gauge to handle that much, and hold off on installing the socket or port until you know what you want to use. <S> Tesla, Chargepoint, and others will sell a wall-mount controller with cable; <S> alternatively you could put in a NEMA-XX and get a cable& controller with adapters to match. <S> In my case, I have the Tesla-supplied cable which sports adapters for 120VAC <S> (20 Amp), NEMA14-50, and at least one other socket. <S> I have found intermediate adapters on Amazon to connect the Tesla cable to sockets designed for laundry dryers, electric stoves, RV camper connections, and so on.
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Every socket is generic when you have the right adapter. Most likely the EV charger will want a NEMA 6-30 or 6-50. If you try to look at how to install a stove or dryer connection, you'll get the wiring right, but might not find the right enclosures, conduit, etc. You can certainly preclude any of the NEMA 10 types (hot hot neutral no ground); those will never be used on an EV (except in old homes hijacking the dryer connection). Even if that means junking a panel you installed yesterday; believe me, you will thank us later!
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How to 'fix' a twisted murphy door? I'm new to woodworking and I am building a bookshelf door. The bookshelf is constructed of hardwood. I mounted it, and the measurements and square look good, but it seems that the surface I used to lay it out on (a 6 foot plastic table on my steep driveway) was not particularly flat, and the top left corner sticks forward about an inch when the bottom is flush with the doorway. The hinge side is perfectly aligned. I plan on putting trim mounted to the bookshelf that goes over the existing doorway. I hope the pictures adequately illustrate the situation. When I add trim, this will be a problem, as I want to give the illusion that it is a built-in bookshelf. As I see it, my options are: adding a spacer between the bookshelf and the trim on the left side shave an inch off the top left corner rebuilding the bookshelf adjusting the hinge side and adding a spacer on that side The last two options are much less preferable- the hinge side is much more visible, and you know, not rebuilding it. I'm leaning towards a spacer on the left side between the trim. Would love any alternative recommendations. I know it's a tough issue to describe and adequately illustrate, so please let me know if I can provide more concise information. Edit: Illustrating my current best option- a spacer to fill this gap <Q> I'm hoping Solar Mike's solution works and solves your problem <S> but that's a lot of twisting to correct by "pushing" and seems like it would be likely to revert back to the way it was built. <S> You're new at woodworking and <S> your job looks pretty good, except for the gap. <S> I don't thing a spacer will give you the desired effect you're looking for, especially for a Murphy door (secret door). <S> Bite the bullet and fix it right, your option #3. <S> If you don't, it will probably bug you every time you look at it and you will eventually end up fixing it right. <S> We've all been there, done that. <S> The more you try to cover up a mistake, the worse it looks. <S> Just my humble opinion. <A> Take it apart and redo it. <S> Sorry. <S> That said: Book case doors tend to bend like crazy after they are loaded. <S> I have a friend who has several in his house: <S> Instead of conventional hinges he uses a heavy duty ball flat plate bearing (Like a lazy susan uses) for the bottom bearing, and a 3/4" shaft bearing for the top bearing. <S> The shaft bearing is mounted on the top of door with carriage bolts, and a 3/4" bolt goes through a hole in the top of the case thorugh the bearing and into a nut embedded in the jam. <S> The back panel of the bookcase is 3/4" GIS fir plywood. <S> The bookcase does not have movable shelves but has rabbeted shelves secured with glue and dowels. <S> On the back of the plywood he attaches a 2x3 diagonally to the plywood using counter sunk 2" x 1/4" lag bolts and glue. <S> The door has a sill about half and inch high, with a long taper on the side the door opens to. <S> A recessed adjustable castor in the door near the outside of it's path, but centred in depth rides up the slope as the door closes unloading the the warping torque on the door. <A> I used a block at the bottom corner while pushing the top corner in so plan on “reversing” the twist. <S> ie you have an inch at the top <S> so block the bottom out an inch then push the top in flush - leave for 24 hours <S> then test... <S> Worked for me but can’t guarantee your results. <A> screen door turnbuckle kit <S> Will give a lot of results for a common hardware store item of limited length, with solid rods (typically.) <S> To go all the way from the protruding corner to the opposite corner you may need to use a standard turnbuckle and cables. <S> Terminating the cables will take a bit more hardware (cable eyes, cable clamps, or suitable crimps and a crimper.) <S> You might actually want two, in an X, because the direction it's not sticking out is precisely the direction it will want to "droop" or "sag" under the weight of books over time, so restraining that with a brace now might prevent that later.
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You might be able to more effectively pull it in (and have it stay put that way) with a turnbuckle to apply tension on the backside (where it will be hidden), if it has enough flex to move with some force applied.
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Which wire is line vs load wires Which wire in this configuration is line and subsequently which ones are load? Legend : B1-B6 are 6 black wires. Not shown : each switch has ground wiring as well. Left them out for simplicity. There is also a clump or neutral white wires in the back of the box with a wire nut around them all. Context: Two light switches where the left switch controls lanterns next to a front door and the right switch controls a light post. They are independent. Turning either off doesn't affect the power to the other. Background: I’m wiring in a smart switch Caseta by Lutron and it has a black line in and red load out. I want to swap the right switch with this and need to know which of the existing two blacks is line in vs load out to the light. Commentary: The electrician used a red wire nut, not sure if that was intended to indicate something about all of those black wires. I was a bit confused by this configuration because my assumption is that B1 is line, and through the left switch it caries power up to the red-capped pigtail and that feeds power to the right switch via B5. However when left switch is off, right switch still works. My assumption is B1 is line, B3 and B4 go to each of the lanterns, and B6 goes to the pole. B2 and B5 join the switches. <Q> Those colors <S> OK, so B2-B5 (blacks I assume?) are hot all the time, and would be even if B1 and B6 were disconnected. <S> Those four wires perform the following 4 jobs (and I really don't care which is which, as it's irrelevant): <S> Always-hot from the supply Always-hot onward to other points of use Always-hot to switch 1 <S> Always-hot to switch 2 <S> I like to force particular color codes <S> Now, cables are made in particular colors, but that does not reflect what functions <S> those wires actually do. <S> I like to re-mark wires using colored tape, using the following color code: : Bare, green, yellow-green: <S> Ground (mandatory per international law) White or gray - neutrals (mandatory per NEC) Black - always-hot (unswitched) <S> Red - switched-hot e.g. to a lamp <S> Blue - alternate switched-hot Yellow - 2nd alternate switched-hot 2 yellows together = <S> 3-way travelers 2 blues together = <S> alternate 3-way travelers 2 reds together = <S> 2nd alternate 3-way travelers <S> B2-B5 are always-hot and are already black. <S> I would recolor B1 to red... and B6 to blue. <S> And also recolor the wires that they splice to from the wall. <S> The colors of wire nuts <S> Colors of wire nuts are a different deal. <S> They designate wire nut size. <S> Red is "the biggest in ordinary use". <S> Yellow is next down, fit for 2-3 and sometimes 4 #14 wires. <S> Orange is good for 2 wires. <S> They have a lot of overlap in their ranges, but for instance four wires would be too much for an orange. <S> Their ranges are published and it's best to stay near the middle of the nut's working range. <S> You can stretch a yellow to work where a red is ideal, but better to just use a red. <A> OK, based on this highly technical drawing I'm going to say that B2, B3, B4 & B5 are all connected and hot. <S> one of the B's is the feed and is connected to a feed out. <S> B2 and B5 make both switches hot. <S> B1 would then control the lanterns and B6 would control the post light. <S> Now you've stated that the grounds have not been shown. <S> You also seem to be missing some neutral, white, wires that would be connected to all these lights, to the line feed in and the line feed out. <S> How about that? <A> To answer your question further: B2 and B5 are considered "line" and B1 and B6 are considered "load'. <S> In this case - lights. <S> In your question you just had the flow going the opposite way.
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Line supplies the power (hot side) to the switch and the load side of the switch (switched hot) is delivering the current to the device being energized. Edit Typo correction; B2 and B5 are "line" and B1 and B6 are load. So now that your wires are identified, they are same color to same color.
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How do I fix this drill hole on countertop? How should I go about fixing this mistake I made? The size of the hole is 5/32 in diameter and about a 1/16 deep. I’m thinking of cutting a piece of laminate from behind the fridge and hole punching out a circle the same size. Not sure what the best way to adhere it would be. Should I do multiple punch outs to get the right height? Or should I fill it with something? Any help would be awesome. Thanks. <Q> That's a tough one because plastic laminate is applied to the particle board substrate with contact cement, which is soft and rubbery. <S> It's very good for large areas, but lousy for little fixes like that. <S> To make matters worse, you need to remove the existing adhesive before carrying on. <S> If you can indeed get a repair disc from a hidden area, here's what I'd do: <S> You could also scrape it away with a square-ended hobby knife or whatever. <S> Remove the adhesive from your repair disc. <S> The simplest way might be to rub the disc on a piece of sandpaper until it's clean. <S> Test fit the disc. <S> Figure out the best orientation with respect to pattern-matching. <S> Set the disc with clear two-part epoxy or wood glue. <S> The key here is going to be to get the patch on plane. <S> See the glare in your photo? <S> If you don't get the patch on plane it'll reflect differently and appear much darker or lighter than the surrounding area. <S> Set it in the adhesive and periodically adjust it as the adhesive sets using a toothpick or hobby knife. <S> After the initial set has cured and the disc is stable, fill the circular joint with more epoxy or glue to seal it up and improve the appearance. <S> Be prepared to wipe excess off the surface before it cures. <S> Once that's done, buff the area lightly with something suitable (like steel wool) to knock off any bumps or edges and make the sheen uniform. <S> Be very careful here to not leave a large marred area. <S> Test somewhere hidden and inspect your work often. <S> This step could ruin the outcome. <A> The laminate companies make a material to create a seam between 2 sheets. <S> I would get that and fill. <S> It will have a slight difference in color but trying to patch laminate will usually show no matter how good you are the small tube to fill a seam may be a better solution than a plug. <A> Try super glue and baking soda. <S> Put a tape at the bottom of the hole from below. <S> Then pour little baking soda and then few drops if super glue. <S> Once that sets pour little more baking soda and then add few drops of super glue and likt that built it up till hole gets filled. <S> Super glue reaction with baking soda makes hard like rock. <S> Watch this on YouTube. <A> That small of a spot, I would use lacquer burn in sticks. <S> You can blend the colors to match a good "middle ground" color, by heating it up with a heat gun or butane lighter. <S> Drip the hot mix into the hole till filled. <S> Slick it off with a slightly hotter than warm putty knife to knock off most of the excess and clean the rest of the smear off with lacquer thinner.
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In my opinion, trying to get a small patch in that size of a hole will be more obvious than a mono-color filler done in the right color. Clean out this hole by drilling deeper ... just enough to completely remove the old adhesive.
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