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Why do my outlets start working when something is plugged in? I am in an apartment and have a small bar between living room and kitchen. In that bar is an outlet. It is NOT on the same breaker as the living room lights, fan, or outlets. Recently my lights and outlets quit working in the living room area. We had 7 kids over for a birthday so since the outlet on the bar was working, I know because my phone charger was plugged into it, we moved the TV to that part of the room. When I plug the tv into the bottom outlet all the lights, ceiling fan, and outlets start working in the living room. This only happens in the bottom outlet and NOT the top outlet. How is this possible since they are on separate breakers? I'm not sure if it's relevant but there is a roof leak in apartment. We have mold growing in closets in one bedroom, landlord says it is not mold, and water drips from air vent in ceiling in dining room when it rains. Nothing close to this plug though. Standing under ceiling fan. Outlet is just above my jacket on bar wall. <Q> Try turning off the power to the bar outlet and also the power to the living room lights and outlets. <S> The two breakers you turned off could be sharing the neutral and it could be loose in the bar outlet or connected by the backstabs in the outlet. <A> Teething pains in new work like this, is routine enough: most buildings are built in a hurry, and they use lawful techniques which speed assembly but have lower reliability. <S> (and one reason the builder wants to be involved in warranty work, is to track failure rates to evaluate whether these cost-saving shortcuts are actually worth it). <S> So it's the Chinese model; do low-reliability work and "eat" the cost of expected failures, because that totals out to cheaper than doing good work. <S> Ain't it great living in this modern age? <S> Of course the landlord's best play is to just fix it internally and stick it to the builder. <S> But also, it behooves the landlord for the builder to be smarter about building methods. <S> None of this is any excuse to leave you on the dangle for getting this fixed . <S> Top of our suspect list around here is " backstab connections" on receptacles and switches. <S> Note that none of these shortcuts are particularly unsafe <S> ; for instance backstabs tend to fail open, meaning power dies beyond that point in the circuit <S> and that's all. <S> That makes a certain amount of sense. <S> The agency that writes the Electrical Code is the National Fire Prevention Association , <S> so one guess as to their priorities; and the agency that approves electrical devices is Underwriter's Laboratories , and "underwriter" means "insurance company". <S> As long as it fails safely their concerns are satisfied. <A> There are 2 things I'd check. <S> Or, hire an Electrician, regardless of Landlord, to figure out the situation. <S> But anyway, first would be to inspect, correct and tighten any insertion of breakers and wiring at the panel, since you'll turn off the bar breaker for check #2. <S> Second, pull the bar's outlet out to see if the tab between screws is present or not. <S> If not, then the outlet is split and wired into 2 circuits. <S> If so, and everything was tight and right at the panel, then a bigger draw arced a connection from the bus bar to a loose breaker or similarly any other connection in the circuit. <S> Squeezing the breaker's beak tighter with pliers can permanently remedy the problem. <S> Other connections would need redoing under the wire nuts, starting with the bar outlet's box.
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Pull out the bar outlet and inspect it for loose connections, especially on the white,neutral, wire. As for what it is, not our problem; only licensed electricians can work in a rental unit.
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Why don't electrical receptacles have more than one ground? All modern receptacles have places for additional hot/neutral wires so you can add more outlets in series, but they all have a single screw or hole for the ground wire. Why don't they have two ground holes?!? I see many receptacles wired where the installer simply twisted the wires by hand, or only used electrical tape, or used a wire nut but did not use the proper size, or did not know how to properly use a wirenut (only doing a single twist)! Sometimes the connection is good when they install it, but since there is so little space behind a GFCI for example, they had to manhandle the wires back into the box, and this caused their halfass attempt at a connection to come loose the second I pull it out of the box. I am so tired of replacing receptacles only to find that the previous installer didn't know how to continue the ground line properly. It would seem that adding a second hole would be preferable to the dangerous situation that arises when someone does not have/know how to use a wirenut correctly. Is there any good reason they make them this way? <Q> This is because removing a device isn't allowed to interrupt grounding connections Removing a wiring device from the circuit <S> cannot break grounding connections, or else you are violating NEC 250.148(B): <S> (B) <S> Grounding Continuity. <S> The arrangement of grounding connections shall be such that the disconnection or the removal of a receptacle, luminaire, or other device fed from the box does not interfere with or interrupt the grounding continuity. <S> pigtail grounds using a splicing connector of some sort or another (whether it be a wirenut, a crimp, or a push-in type splicing connector). <A> I am glad you are finding it convenient that some devices allow themselves to also be used as splice blocks. <S> However, that is prohibited for certain types of wires: <S> Any and all ground wires <S> Neutral wires on multi-wire branch circuits <S> That is because it will cause serious problems for other (e.g. downline) <S> loads if those connections are severed due to removal of a device. <S> Further, grounds are only allowed to be attached via a shepherd's hook around the terminal screw. <S> No backstabs are allowed (they're not particularly reliable) nor should a screw-clamp connection style be used. <S> Devices are not obliged to provide convenient splice points. <S> That is when you use a pigtail , which should be part of your repertoire. <S> You should not be attempting a half-ass anything. <S> If you can't execute a proper pigtail, skill up. <S> Don't be the newbie who judges how things are done, or criticizes the previous work; it's typically more competent than you realize. <S> (Or not, but it's hard to be sure of that when you're new). <S> As always, we're happy to help. <A> In addition to what @ThreePhaseEel said, the purpose of having two screws on each side is not so that receptacles can be wired in series. <S> While that is allowed, the purpose is for "split receptacle" setups, where only one outlet is controlled by a switch (or each is controlled by a separate switch) . <S> This is done by breaking the metal tab that joins the two screws. <S> Here's an example . <A> Hot and neutral wires are working wires. <S> Ground wire is a security/reference wire. <S> Any connection may loosen over time. <S> When hot wire gets loose, you'll notice it immediately - the devices behind the failure stop working properly. <S> Same apply for the neutral wires. <S> On the other hand when the ground wire gets loose you want to have as few devices affected as possible. <S> And one uninterrupted wire is the way to go. <S> You also want to have as few hubs as possible as well - its faster to check 5 boxes than 15. <S> In the worst case You will become a grounding wire for a while. <S> It may also result in different ground potentials over the house and some devices may malfunction because of that.
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As a result, manufacturers only put one ground screw or terminal on wiring devices, so that you're required to do the right thing and When the ground wire gets disconnected somewhere you'll lose the ground protection and you'll realize it at the time of another failure, which is too late. There is nothing wrong if they don't.
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How can I build shelves that are 66" wide? I want to build a bookcase as part of a large built-in, and due to the geometry of the situation, it would be desirable to have one column of shelves be 66" wide. The problem is that even using hardwood boards, a shelf 66" will sag under the weight of heavy books. So, the natural solution is to use a a steel flat or angle to reinforce the front edge of the shelf and then hide it somehow so it cannot be seen. How can I do this? <Q> You can put a 1/2"-thick wooden board over the metal piece to camouflage it. <S> And if the shelf is really that long, you'll need something strong for the metal piece. <S> A structural engineer could probably tell you the minimum dimensions, but I would guess a 1.5" angle, or square tube, would do it. <S> And that means you're limiting access to the shelf below that. <S> If this was my shelf, I'd focus on finding shelf supports that take up as little space as possible. <S> Something like this: <A> A good way to add stiffness to a book shelf is to add an edge wise board along the underside edge of the shelf. <S> If you are able to support the long shelf in one or two places along its length at the rear of the shelf then you can get by just adding the stiffener along under the front edge of the shelf. <S> Appearance can be improved by setting the stiffener back some from the front shelf edge. <S> If the stiffener is made of the same material as the shelf then it is easy to use the same finishing on both pieces. <S> The stiffener can be attached to the shelf in various ways but all should include a glue joint all along the top edge of the stiffener board. <S> Methods can include: Dowels Biscuits (as shown above on the diagram) <S> Pocket screws installed from the back side up into the shelf Long counter sunk screws installed in from the bottom edge of the stiffener. <A> I recommend trying out the Sagulator . <S> It suggests that a 66" run in 1" Beech should have an acceptable sag. <S> If you try to reduce the thickness to ½", it will be very saggy. <S> An edging strip will have to be quite deep to strengthen the shelf. <S> Those calculations assume the back edge is unsupported. <S> If you support the back edge, and add brackets, things will get a lot better (but the Sagulator won't tell you how much better). <A> If a steel flat is secured to the back edge rather than the front it'll hide better. <S> There's probably little benefit in choosing an angle rather than a flat bar. <S> The vertical section is what gives strength to resist sagging; the second leg of an angle would serve mainly to prevent the vertical leg from twisting and failing. <S> A flat bar can be prevented from twisting simply by securing it well to the wood shelf. <S> For that matter, a very thick false back (plywood, for instance) fitted between the shelves would accomplish the same thing as a front edging strip or a rear support stringer without standing out as an obvious support structure. <A> Use Unistrut, such as A1001A or P6001A . <S> Flat surface up. <S> Several rows of it. <S> Tie them together somehow - either tackweld them or tie them with rigid steel straps on the bottom which bolt into the Unistrut to hold it parallel and surfaced. <S> Have 3 of these at the 1/4, middle and 3/4 of the span. <S> They could be pretty conformal, say 3/16" thick if you use 3/16" strap and flat-head bolts into countersunk holes. <S> You could replace some of the Unistrut in the middle with a wood plank of same thickness. <A> Instead of just using a plank, have you thought of making the shelf more like a floating shelf instead? <S> If you do that, you could mount the shelf directly to your studs and provide significant support in a hidden manner. <S> 
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If the flat bar must be taller than the thickness of the shelf it could be concealed by installing a thin false back sized to fit neatly between adjacent shelves.
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Do lag bolts need to be centered? I'm putting a 56lb TV on a 20lb wall mount and attaching it to two studs with 5 screws (3 on one stud, 2 on the other). Installing the plate so it is off center would make the rest of the installation easier. My gut tells me this is a bad idea for like three different reasons. Can anyone confirm or deny that intentionally shifting a lag bolt by an inch off stud center is a bad idea? Thank you! Update (and decision) : The stud in question is at a 135 degree corner next to a bay window. Something I saw in an outlet hole plus holes I was drilling to check led me to believe I have a single 4" stud. I now believe that I actually have 2 or three studs next to each other. Based on answers below, I want to hit the center of a dimensional 2x4, which is 0.75" from the edge. This actually buys me what I need. I originally thought I had to hit the middle of the 4", which is 2" from the edge. If all I need to do is hit 0.75" from the edge, that gives me an 1.25" extra inches. <Q> The following is minimum for BOLTS IN WOOD: <S> Edge distance: <S> Perpendicular to grain: 4 times dia. <S> Parallel to grain: 1.5 times bolt dia. <S> End distance: <S> When in tension: 7 times bolt dia. <S> When in compression: 4 times dia. <S> Center-to-Center spacing: <S> Perpendicular to grain: 2.5 times dia. <S> Parallel to grain: 4 times bolt dia. <S> Spacing between rows of bolts: <S> Between 2 and 5 bolt diameter depending on l/d ratio <A> Not clear as to where your location is but here in the USA <S> the studs are 1.5" thick. <S> The centerline to edge distance of the stud is 0.75". <S> If you try to move the lag bolt over by 1.0" from the center there will be no stud for the lag bolt to go into. <S> That is unless you get very lucky and happen to be working in an area where there is a doubled up stud. <S> Bottom line with only 0.75" to deal with in either direction you should aim to keep your bolts centered on the stud ... or at least try not to deviate off center by more than 0.25". <A> I'd keep the wall mount plate centered and drill new holes in the mount plate to match the center of the stud.
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Yes, keeping lags centered in studs is important.
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Can Teflon thread tape be reused? I need to take off my shower head for cleaning and possible replacement. I can see there is Teflon tape on the fitting where the head connects to the arm. When I reconnect the head, can I reuse the existing tape? Do I wrap an extra layer around the existing tape? Or do I need to go ahead and completely remove and replace the existing tape? <Q> You should remove the tape and replace it, a small roll at a big box store is less than a dollar. <A> I agree with Ed Beal that you should replace it, but if you're in a pinch <S> you certainly can reuse PTFE tape, assuming you recover enough of it <S> and it's not totally shredded. <S> Carefully unwrap it and evaluate which end is in better shape. <S> Re-wrap with that portion to the outside, respecting thread direction (you want the tape to tighten as you thread the parts together, not loosen or fold back). <S> Usually that's clockwise looking from the pipe end. <S> Check carefully for leaks as the seal will not be as reliable. <A> As an additional answer alluded to by Nelson, it also somewhat depends on the use case. <S> However, if it's hidden or difficult to get to, you'll want to do it <S> right the first time. <S> Also, if your jurisdiction permits the use of Teflon tape on natural gas or other flammable gas/fluid connections, always use new, as a leak there could be catastrophic. <A> For an application like this where a slow leak would not be a disaster you can omit the tape or substitute something similar like cling-wrap. <S> That's if the tape is even needed, usually shower-heads use a washer. <A> Teflon tape is a one-time use item. <S> It's sole purpose is to deform and tear itself into the threading of the pipe to prevent water from getting through the threads. <S> Clean the old tape off as much as possible. <S> Use a metal wire brush to really get off the crusty stuff as well but don't scratch up the chrome/nickel/ <S> whatever finish and apply about 2-3 layers of new tape clockwise; assuming that righty-tighty applies here. <S> This should take no more than 5 minutes. <S> Do note that if the shower head has a rubber gasket then that gasket is what produces the water tight seal and teflon tape may not do anything if the gasket fails. <S> It all depends on how that joint was designed. <S> In this scenario you can still apply the teflon tape as long as you don't put any tape where the rubber gasket meets the pipe.
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If it's a shower head (as in this example) where a drip really won't make any difference, if you don't have new, go ahead and reuse.
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Separating a circuit with existing 12-3 wiring I have 12-3 electrical wire running from the main panel on one end of my ranch-style house to feed both the basement lights and the living room lights/outlets upstairs (opposite ends from the main panel). The red wire is connected to a breaker and used as the hot for the circuit while the black wire is not connected to a breaker in the main panel, it is simply capped off. If I were to connect the black wire to a separate circuit breaker (opposite phase, of course), could I safely branch off at the first receptacle/light in the circuit and use the black hot for the living room and keep the red hot for the basement lights and just "share" the neutrals? I want the areas of the house to be on separate circuits, and thought I may be able to avoid a new run of cable the full length of the house. <Q> Yes. <S> This is the last person planning ahead. <S> They made sure you would be able to do this. <S> This would create a multi-wire branch circuit and you must follow the rules for MWBCs. <S> There must be 240V across the hots, so neutral carries differential current not the sum of both currents. <S> The breakers must have common maintenance shutoff . <S> It will be impossible to shut off one and not the other; one hand action does both. <S> This will almost certainly have a side-effect of common trip , meaning if one side overloads, it knocks out the other side . <S> In fact, the most normal (idiot-proof) way to wire these is to simply use a 2-pole breaker, because they are readily available everywhere, instead of UL-listed handle-ties for those breakers, which are a specialty, hard-to-find item. <S> Neutrals must be pigtailed. <S> You may be accustomed to using the two screws on each side of a receptacle for a splice to extend the circuit. <S> Can't do that on a neutral, because removing the receptacle etc. <S> would then create a "lost neutral" situation downstream! <S> The appliances on the two half-legs would be in series with each other at 240V, and one leg could rise to as high as 240V. <S> If you are past the point where the halves have split for good, then you don't need to worry about this requirement. <S> AFCIs normally go in the service panel, to protect wires. <S> Here, consult your panel's manufacturer (or the maker of UL- classified breakers for your panel) for how to do 2-pole AFCI breakers in their system. <S> Some simply offer 2-pole AFCI; others have you handle-tie two singles. <S> There are only 2 possible places to put GFCI protection: <S> As a 2-pole GFCI breaker at the service panel, or as a device serving only one leg of the GFCI. <S> You can't share the neutral past a GFCI. <A> Doing that creates what the NEC describes as a Multiwire Branch Circuit. <A> but you have to handle tie the breakers together. <S> You also have to trace the black wire to find the other end. <S> You mentioned it's capped in the main panel, well you need to find the other end and make sure you know what you're connecting to a breaker. <S> Good luck
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The circuits must be positioned in the electrical panel so handle ties or a two-pole breaker can disconnect both live conductors simultaneously. This must not be a duplex/twin/tandem breaker, which does not have 240V across it! Yes, you can do that
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Setting tack strip in concrete I would like to have carpet installed in the bedroom of my basement apartment which now has a concrete floor. I don't trust the carpet guy with this part because he suggested cutting corners and just gluing it and I don't trust the glue for this application. I was thinking to drill small holes in the strip, use it as stencil to project spots in the concrete, then drill holes with my jackhammer, set lead anchors and then attach the strip with screws into the anchors. That way the strip is as firm as it would be against an OSB subfloor. But it also seems a bit labor intensive. Is there a better way to attach carpet tack strip to a concrete floor? Like maybe drilling holes and filling them with some kind of epoxy that nails can be hammered into? That's a little easier but not much. <Q> Doing it by drilling and an insert or a concrete screw would be awesome but that is really going to take some time <A> Yes way too much labor. <S> Use powder actuated fasteners and loads specific for concrete. <S> I've removed the tack strips from concrete and <S> this is what held them down. <S> The fasteners were maybe 1" long. <S> https://www.ramset.com/Portals/0/pdf/RamsetPdrFastener_LoadChart.pdf <A> Tack strip for concrete, plus construction adhesive <S> They make tack strip with nails specifically for concrete. <S> They're thicker and harder than what's in the usual stuff, but nowhere near as large as actual concrete (cut) nails. <S> That said, in older concrete many of the nails will spall out and not hold. <A> I worked alot of high rise concrete buildings in my day. <S> when it came down to securing plates and bracing for the next level form work [concrete cast in place columns and walls] we would use a #8 duplex nail and a couple strands of wire 16 gauge I believe [rebar tie wire] <S> drill <S> a 3/16 hole using a real hammer drill with a real carbide tipped concrete bit and drill down the depth of the nail length drop in the strands of tie wire insert the nail and drive it home. <S> this is one of the best anchors I have ever used very cheap and can be removed if required leaving a small hole behind. <S> drilling is simple and if you use the proper drill and bits it no more effort than if you were drilling into wood no matter how old the concrete is. <S> try it on vertical or horizontal attachments <S> it is a very good anchor for thin pcs. <S> up to 3/4" thick. <S> use a #16 duplex and 1 strand of wire on 2x4's same 3/16 bit dia. <S> you'll be surprised with the holding power
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I have used a combination of construction adhesive and concrete nails. The few that do can be considered temporary if you use heavy-duty construction adhesive also and give it a day to cure.
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How to mount 18mm MDF Shelves on plasterboard/drywall hollow wall (no studs)? I have had some 18mm (0.7") MDF cut to make some shelving in an alcove between my shower room and main hallway. It's 18.5cm (7.2") deep by 196.5cm (77") long I have been considering the best way to mount these to the plasterboard/drywall - there's a few screw options and i'm inclined to go with this type https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-steel-self-drilling-metal-plug-pack-of-100/1511938_BQ.prd but I'm not sure what to actually use to mount the shelves. Watched a lot of videos where people screw wooden batten supports against the wall and simply rest the wooden shelf on that, but not sure that will work with the .5" think MDF Thoughts? p.s. found this pretty good guide - but I'm limited with my abilities and tools. https://www.practicaldiy.com/carpentry/shelving/shelving_alcove.php#metal <Q> I love those ez anchors they can support a fair load. <S> the other is 1” or 1/2 <S> my local big box store has this type of angle or bracket. <S> The issue here is the front will sag so <S> a longer bracket is really needed. <S> As far as how many you will need I would think at least 5 brackets because MDF will sag if not supported. <S> 4 may work <S> but I would probably use 5 . <S> I would create triangle braces out of 1x2 again <S> I would probably use 2 anchors for each support 7 “ is not much but better safe than sorry. <S> If you make your triangle 7” on the 2 sides then the long side creates the support for the front of the shelf , this would prevent sagging. <A> I wouldn't rely on those anchors for a shelf. <S> They just don't spread the load over enough of the plasterboard. <S> Expanding anchors spread the load more, but a shelf could end up full of books or a child could try to climb it. <S> Personally, if I can't find a stud, I'd create something to transmit the load to the floor. <S> Either a plank on each side, or individual timber legs. <S> You can use drywall anchors to stabilise these, so it's pretty easy woodwork compared to building a free-standing set of shelves. <S> screw wooden batten supports against the wall and simply rest the wooden shelf on that Battens on the ends of a shelf works for short shelves, but 2m (6') is far too long, especially for MDF, which will sag over time. <S> You need supports about every half meter. <S> I'd use wooden uprights about 20x40mm, with short horizontal battens of the same material screwed and glued to the sides to support the shelves. <A> If there's no support in the wall (seems dubious that 2 meters of wall would have no studs...?), the best option by far is to just put uprights on the ends (and for that long, probably also the middle) of the shelves and make a self-supporting "bookcase" or freestanding shelf that can be stood against the wall, holding itself up from the floor, rather than trying to hold shelves up on a wall with nothing solid to support them.
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At 77” long and only 7” deep I would consider L brackets that require 2 screws each this would provide ~100 lbs of support at each bracket l bracket is similar to your angle but one side is 3”
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What is the cheapest wood or wood-like material strong enough for books? I would like to create wall-to-wall and floor-to-ceiling bookshelves in a room, to hold several thousand books. The shelves for the larger books is in a grid like this, with vertical columns like in this picture: Since it is many books, some being heavy, it needs to be strong, but as lots of material is needed, it should be cheap. It will be covered with paint and mounted directly to the wall framing. It shouldn't be as cheap a solution as found in this question What is the cheapest/easiest way to make bookshelves? , as it still needs to look like wooden panels covered in paint. The 3 ft-wide bookshelf in my workplace collapsed as that was made of particle board, while supporting 30 three-hundred page textbooks, so I think this material might be unsuited. What is a strong cheap wood or product that if painted looks like a plank of wood, that is really cheap, yet strong enough for holding a large quantity of books and won't bow? <Q> The most important factor is the unsupported length of your shelf. <S> This represents a beam of length L supported at both ends (A,B) with a force applied in the middle (F): <S> The lowercase "f" represents how much your shelf will bend, ie <S> , how ugly it'll look once books are placed on it. <S> With uniform load (fixed amount of weight per unit of shelf length), f is proportional to L^4, ie the fourth power of L. <S> This means, for a fixed material and thickness, a shelf that is twice as long, loaded with twice as many books since it is double the length, will bend 16 times more ! <S> This is why a short shelf, like about 40cm as pictured in your question, can be made of pretty much anything, even the cheapest 18mm thick particle board, OSB, whatever. <S> It will stay straight. <S> But a 80cm shelf, like in IKEA BILLY, has a 16x times harder job... <S> And 80cm IKEA shelves, which are made mostly of as much air as possible, and as little sawdust and glue as they can get away with... <S> they do bend. <S> For a 80cm shelf loaded with heavy books I'd definitely not recommend particle board. <S> The IKEA BILLY one in my living room <S> looks quite bendy. <S> I'll probably replace it with plywood some day. <S> In summary, don't blame particle board for your 3 ft shelf collapsing, instead blame a wrong use of particle board. <S> 3 ft is too long. <S> It would be fine for storing clothes, but not tightly packed books. <S> If you want to make a shelf like in your photo, with "boxes" about 40-50cm wide, which is about half as long as 3 ft, then... you can use pretty much any material you want and the deciding factor will be cost and how easy it is to make a nice finish. <A> I can't tell you what the cheapest wood is, because that varies by location (where I live, that would be knotty pine). <S> Plywood is usually cheaper than solid boards, but it's a little more work. <S> It comes in large sheets, so the first thing you have to do is cut it into planks of the right width. <S> And most people don't like having the exposed plywood edge right in front, so they put a thin piece of edging over it. <S> This is not required, it's purely an aesthetic decision; if you want more of an industrial look, you can leave the plywood edge as it is. <A> You can use 1/2" sanded plywood for the shelves, then trim the edges with a suitable looking 1x2 to look nice and add strength. <S> This should work up to about 3ft wide. <S> If you want to be even more sure it holds, shorten your distance between supports to 18-24". <S> As an example, here's a pic of a 36"x12" kitchen cabinet with a 1/4" thick shelf filled with 50+ lbs of glassware.
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Any 3/4" solid board (or 3/4" plywood) will work, as long as it's supported properly. If you want a 3 ft shelf which can carry heavy books, then the deciding factor will be material strength, and you'll likely end up with 20mm plywood.
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Washing machine: where to put laundry detergent? I noticed, that washing machines usually start with flushing the detergent from the dispenser drawer into the drum. So I wonder, what is the difference if I put the detergent into the dispenser, or into the drum? <Q> Putting the detergent into the dispenser drawer allows the washing machine to make sure that the detergent is mixed with water before starting the cycle. <S> If you just throw the detergent into the drum it can get caught up in the clothing and some of it can end up never getting fully distributed throughout the wash water. <S> This is more of a problem with dry powdered detergent but can also be an issue using the concentrated HE type liquid detergent with the newest washers that purport to be high efficiency through the use of minimal water. <S> In the olden days I can remember my mother mixing the powered detergent in water before introducing it into the old style wringer washing machine she used in our basement. <S> She did that for the same reasons as the washers at the time only had agitate on/off and no automatically controlled water fill and spin cycles. <A> Mine starts with pumping any remaining liquids out of the drum, then flushes in the detergent. <A> I'm guessing you don't use bleach, and always pick the same cycle for the most part. <S> The problem with bleach, and even detergent in some cases, is if you just splash a cup of bleach into the filling drum, you get a huge white splotch on your clothes whereever the bleach landed. <S> Detergents can also have this effect. <S> Also, some cycles may do something before <S> they want the detergent. <S> An example is a pre-soak; you can get a headstart on tough dirt if the clothing is wetted for awhile before the soap arrives.
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If the detergent is absorbed in the clothes, not poured in the bottom of the drum, there's no difference.
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Tiling on Drywall in Shower I have a bathroom where water-resistant drywall was put up around and over the tub. Is it okay to put tile over the drywall around the tub or shower? If not, what can I do to be able to put tile? <Q> Tile over dry wall even water resistant will not last as long <S> but mat survive for up to 25 years if well sealed and has a gap at the bottom of the tub. <S> This method of tiling was quite popular in the 50’s, 60’s and into the 70’s . <S> On repair work I have done on tiled bath and shower stalls neglect is usually the cause of the failure. <S> What was the neglect? <S> Failure to reseal the grout so water finally degraded the Sheetrock to the point tiles fall off or someone pushes the wall in , the larger the tile the longer the wall will last. <S> So can you do it , yes , we flipped several houses with a quick overlay that made a crappy looking bath look like a mid level home. <S> On my own houses I have always stripped down to the studs, on showers I put up poly vapor barrier, not on tub surrounds, then cement board and then tile. <S> My very first tile shower is over 45years old and the only problem has been the fixtures failed and they were tough to replace as I tiled right up to the valves. <S> (My mom still has this home) <S> last time I was home <S> I did acid etch and reseal the entire thing as my step dad can’t do much any longer but asked if I could make sure it would be ok, Mom has always been worried as it was my first shower back in the 70’s. <S> So if done right they really can last a lifetime and this was 2”x 2”. <A> I would not be installing tile over drywall in a tub or shower, even if it was the water resistant type. <S> I would remove any existing drywall and vapor barrier and replace it with backer board. <S> Tape the seams with mesh tape and thinset. <S> Then tape the seams with mesh tape and Red Gard or some other waterproof membrane. <S> Then apply the waterproofing material to the entire wall surface according to the manufacturer's instructions. <S> When completely dry you can install the tile. <S> Think about using an epoxy grout, it's waterproof and much more durable than standard grout. <S> Use a quality silicone caulk for any changes in plane. <S> Hope this helps a bit. <A> The only consideration is that when you do want to re-tile in the future removing the old tiles will rip up the surface of the drywall to the point you probably would need to replace it.
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Not only is it fine to do this, but some tile companies recommend tiling directly on drywall (plasterboard) because it can hold greater weight than plastered drywall.
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Mounting a sliding barn door without a header I have a hallway that leads into a group of bedrooms. I would like to install a sliding barn door to close these rooms off. There is not currently a header of any kind above this opening. I'm fine with leaving it open for air flow. But I need to span about 44" to mount the track. This issue is not about cantilevering into an unsupported space. I have another wall in which to mount, it's just perpendicular... I am debating between something like hollow square steel across the opening with a flush mount to the wall on both ends... Or building a header by running a 1" x whatever down the wall on both ends and then sandwiching planks between to build up some stoutness. The second image kind of shows what I am trying to describe.Not sure if it's clear. Any ideas would be helpful. I'd rather not build a full height frame in this location. One side has door trim that I would need to remove to do that... not something I want to do. Would rather just span the space. I could be over thinking it. <Q> <A> I answered a similar door problem here using a full pull-out drawer slider: Link: Hardware for a barn/sliding door that cantilevers into free space when open Good Luck <A> You have the right idea on your second drawing, but you will only need 2 pieces of 5/4X6. <S> The first piece will screw to the wall and cover the distance you want the door the travel when it bumps into the wall on the other side. <S> The second piece will be laminated onto the back of the first one, and will be cut between the corner and the wall the door will bump into. <S> about 44" long. <S> After both are screwed together, with 2 screws, 1" from the edges every 16" apart. <S> then toe screw the doubled end into the framing at the corner of the wall that the door will bump. <S> This will give you 2" of material to set the track with their provided lag bolts, but do check the lengths before you start so the points of the lags do not poke through the new header. <S> This 2"X 5 1/2" thick header will take on the weight of any standard door without any problem 11-24 edit <S> Angle 4 screws total <S> so they exit the end of the covered part of the new beam about 1" from the face of the beam through the butt end, countersinking the heads enough to fill the screw heads with filler, this may take a counterbore perhaps as deep as 1/2" on the deepest side since it is angled. <S> To get through the new beam, the drywall and 1"-1 1/2" into the framing, you will need something like 3 1/2"-4" screws to do the task.
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Use the correct length screws to get into the framing,set the screws far enough from the end of the new beam to insure good shear strength, about an 1 1/2" from the end. Your "sandwich" idea would work, but here's a simpler design that accomplishes the same thing:
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How to block a window with plywood for big wall to project a movie? I have a kids' playroom with a big wall and a center window. I want to use this wall as a home theater projector screen. I don't want to block the window permanently with a fixed screen, and my existing rolling screen is a smaller one. So I am trying to block the window with temporary plywood from Lowe's and paint the plywood along with the wall with a white screen painting to play movies. I want the plywood to be easily removable when I am not playing movies, as I don't want to miss the ventilation when kids are playing in that room. What are some options for this? I mean, would buying an exact size of plywood and painting that with matching wall color be a good idea? <Q> I have had great success using a 4x8 foot sheet of white foam board. <S> It is extremely light weight. <S> I hung it from ceiling on strings attached to three binder clips or bull dog clips like show below. <S> If it falls on a child no one gets hurt. <S> The white foam is a good surface for projecting onto. <S> The one pictured below had foil on the other side but the plastic with lettering peels right off leaving a bright white surface . <A> Cut a sheet of wood into the dimensions of your window. <S> Screw in L brackets in the four corners of the wall where you want to put the wood. <S> Then just like a picture frame you install four rotating pegs to hold the board in place while you watch the movie. <S> Depending on your budget, you could also install magnets on the back of your board to hold it in place without the rotating pegs and screw in a pull tab on one of the sides to easily remove the board. <A> If you're not too attached to your current design, consider getting a pull-down projector screen ( example ). <S> They hide away almost completely when not in use, and you can install it without permanently attaching anything to your window frames. <S> They also have reflective properties that make your pictures look better than a normal painted-white surface would. <S> If light pollution from the window is a problem, blackout curtains are an easy solution (buy some, or DIY some fairly inexpensively). <A> Your biggest problem isn't retaining the plywood, it's how not to damage the window or walls. <S> Cut the plywood accurately to the window aperture minus 1/4" each side, and then stick pipe insulation all the way along each side (including corners!) <S> to cushion the edges. <S> This also makes the plywood sheet an interference fit to the window aperture, which means it will tend to keep itself there. <S> If the pipe insulation doesn't feel robust enough, get a bunch of pool noodles and cut a similar slit down each one to stick them on the edges. <S> A couple of bungee-cords hooked across the window might be enough to stop accidents. <S> I would strongly recommend fixing four handles to the panel though (two on each side) so that it's easy to position. <S> And don't forget to mark it "this way up". <S> :) <S> I've done gigs in pubs who had a very similar setup. <S> In their case the panels were backed with foam to help soundproof the windows. <A> The wild and crazy, "probably-more-work-than-it's-worth" idea is to make solid shutters that fold to the sides of the windows when you want light+circulation. <S> But, it appears that you already have the plywood. <S> And, you want the projection area to exceed the dimensions of the plywood, so it really should be flush <S> mounted with the wall and have as little gap between the plywood and wall as possible. <S> You want to cut the plywood to fit closely in the window <S> and then you need some mechanism to hold it in place. <S> Hook & Loop (Velcro) fasteners along the top of the window/plywood to keep the top from sliding into or away from the window. <S> Fabric loops attached to the bottom of the plywood to handle it when pulling out or pushing in. <S> The velcro "should" stop the top of the plywood from moving in or out, but it will not support the weight of the plywood. <S> In this design we are relying on the window sill itself to support the weight of the plywood. <S> The stop blocks can be simply 2x2x2 cubes cut from 2x2 stock and firmly attached to the window opening with 4" screws to engage the framing. <S> Inserting the plywood into the window frame would follow the arrows, #1 lift the plywood into place engaging the velcro strip, #2 grasping the fabric handles slide the bottom of the plywood onto the sill. <S> Gravity "should" hold it in place and the velcro "should" stop the top from sliding out. <S> But for safety, screw it to the stop blocks. <A> You can get "blackout" (almost-blackout) <S> stuff much cheaper than you mention in the comments. <S> Ikea used to be good but since they switched to only selling spring-roller blinds I wouldn't buy another from them. <S> The fabric is completely blacked out but light can get round the edges. <S> If that's still an issue then it's not hard to make a frame that closes up the last bit, even using brush strip for sealing if you want. <A> 1/4" thick plywood is light and strong. <S> Like the previous post says, be sure to paint both sides, so that it does not warp. <S> My favorite would be to have a notchedholder at the bottom, and then a screw-in to the upper two corners. <S> You could get a long piece of trim as the bottom piece. <S> The top is done with either molly bolts, or just screw it into some solid wood. <S> This takes about 30 seconds to install or remove, if you have anelectric screwdriver.
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I would strongly recommend installing "stop" blocks at the top and bottom to keep the plywood from indenting too deeply into the window (keep it flush with the wall) but also to allow you to put screws through the plywood into the stop blocks to prevent the plywood accidentally falling. They look nicer when permanently mounted, but I used to have some on a tension-mount curtain rod that I could easily take down when not using the projector. If it gets broken it’s cheap to replace. I only drew blocks at the bottom, but I would strongly recommend blocks at the top too. When not in use find a place you can store it flat. Various kinds of mounting would work.
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Windows the big heat loss? I am planning an addition and trying to compute the insulation design, and it seems like windows are where all the heat is lost. For example, thermal triple paned glass only has an R-value of about 2.3 compared to 18 for 6 inches of mineral wool. If you consider that that is just the R-Value for the GLASS, and that double hung windows seem to lose most of their heat at the seams, the value could actually be a lot lower than 2.3. Other than making the addition windowless or reducing the size of the windows, is there anything I can do? On a related note, I am planning to use commercial-style sealed windows, so I have no issues concerning heat leaking past the cracks in the window. <Q> Using the most energy efficient type of window will help. <S> Double hung and sliding windows are made to fit a little loose so sashes can slide past each other. <S> Use an awning or casement window that has a latch that pulls the sash in tight AND locks it tight will have less air infiltration, etc. <A> One option is to use honeycomb-style insulating blinds. <S> The downside is that they block the sun during the day so you don't get any heat gain. <S> If you use them on the dark side (s) of the home they definitely help with heat loss. <S> I've found these blinds to be helpful with older windows that were either single pane or had bad seals. <S> Blocking drafts is the first priority, though. <A> You may not be able to get rid of the windows entirely as they serve as egress (fire escape); you need at least two. <S> If the sun shines through the window, you wouldn't have net heat loss during the daylight hours -- it would be adding heat to the home (assuming a properly sealed/draftless window). <S> At night, insulating blinds or heavy insulating curtains would help. <S> Insulating curtains need to close all the way to the ceiling (or box), floor, and sides. <S> Often they have some weights sewn into the bottom and magnets in the sides to hold the two halves together. <S> The purpose of all that is to minimize air currents (i.e. convection). <S> To minimize unwanted heat gain in the summer, you could install an awning outside. <S> An appropriately sized and placed awning would allow the sun to shine inside in the winter but not the summer, as the sun in higher in the sky in summer. <S> You could also install insulating shutters outside.
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Depending on the amount of sun and quality of the windows, if you open and close them regularly as needed on the sunny side(s) they can help there too.
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Is this gap between foundation and siding supposed to be here? If not what should I fill it with? I have hundreds of crickets in my basement every fall. I see them crawling up my foundation so when I looked underneath the siding I see this. There is what looks like ripped plastic paper but then just a large gap into my basement around the entire house. Is there supposed to be a direct entrance into my basement under the siding? (Maybe for moisture reasons or something?) If not what should I fill this with. Would like to do it once but do it right. If the gap is supposed to be there could I install a mesh like this to help with the problem? <Q> You can buy rolls of 'bottle or bristle brush' type material in different diameters. <S> Essentially plastic bristles with a twisted wire core, simply cut to length and pushed up into place. <S> Originally designed to deter mice, but it'd work for crickets just as well. <A> Source: https://seamlesschoice.com/wp-content/uploads/tyvek-vs-fanfold-insulation-01.jpg <S> DO <S> The bottom should remain permeable so that if water gets behind your siding for whatever reason then it has an escape path. <S> I am really not sure how you would attach it to the foundation though. <S> Not really a permanent solution <S> but you can also try spraying <S> https://www.ortho.com/en-us/products/bugs/ortho-home-defense-insect-killer-indoor-perimeter2-comfort-wand <S> around the perimeter of your house <S> and see if that improves things. <A> Bug/Insect screen is typically used here. <S> It is made of nylon and typically installed before the rainscreen but after the building paper.
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That is 99.456% likely to be a plastic house wrapping such as Tyvek found in this picture: NOT seal the bottom with any sort of impermeable caulking nor spray foam. Albeit tedious, you can choose to install that mesh if you wish because it is permeable.
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advice re:ground connections inside a metal box When installing two switches in a double gang metal box, I mistakenly followed the directions for doing this in a plastic box. So I bundled the five ground wires with a marette, but failed to make a connection via pig tail to the metal box. Is this OK to leave? <Q> I just did that today. <S> The box's ground screw hole wasn't on a dome, and it was mounted on a metal surface, so I couldn't use it without bottoming out. <A> Code requires the metal box to be grounded. <S> I would ask if the yokes for the switches contact the box, this can be a compliant ground in some jurisdictions. <A> That would not normally be accepted in the jurisdictions I have worked. <S> I was given some grace and allowed to do that with designated self-grounding switches where I failed to notice that an apprentice didn't put a ground screw in a concrete embedded box.
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Switches don't need to be hard flush; they are allowed to ground via the screw threads even if the switch is not hard flush. Just grounded to the receptacle, which is hard flush against the box, so done.
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Are these pigtails inside the panel and outside a junction box allowed? I am concerned about a newer electrical panel's installation, where one of the older load wires, at the main electrical panel, appear to be shorter in length, appear not reaching the desired circuit breaker's location, as a result, the Electrician elected to Pigtail it to reach its desired circuit breaker. How safe is such practice? Judging by other sub-standard electrical work that I uncovered in the attic, where wire connection are not done inside a junction box and left exposed, I am very concerned about the safety and the level of the finished electrical work. This residential electrical work was completed and approved by the local jurisdiction, building & safety, in the past few week in Southern California. Thank you, <Q> Pigtails in a panel are fine... <S> The wiring space of enclosures for switches or overcurrent devices shall be permitted for conductors feeding through, spliced, or tapping off to other enclosures, switches, or overcurrent devices where all of the following conditions are met: (1) <S> The total of all conductors installed at any cross section of the wiring space does not exceed 40 percent of the cross- sectional area of that space. <S> (2) <S> The total area of all conductors, splices, and taps installed at any cross section of the wiring space does not exceed 75 percent of the cross-sectional area of that space. <S> (3) <S> A warning label complying with 110.21(B) is applied to the enclosure that identifies the closest disconnecting means for any feed-through conductors. <S> ... <S> but that unenclosed splice job sure isn't! <S> However, that unenclosed splicing job is a big problem, and a clear violation of NEC 300.15 (none of 300.15(A)-300.15(L) permit anything remotely resembling a flop-a-dop splice job out in the open like this): <S> 300.15 Boxes, Conduit Bodies, or Fittings — <S> Where Required. <S> A box shall be installed at each outlet and switch point for concealed knob-and-tube wiring. <S> Fittings and connectors shall be used only with the specific wiring methods for which they are designed and listed. <S> Where the wiring method is conduit, tubing, Type AC cable, Type MC cable, Type MI cable, nonmetallic-sheathed cable, or other cables, a box or conduit body shall be installed at each conductor splice point, outlet point, switch point, junction point, termination point, or pull point, unless otherwise permitted in 300.15(A) through (L). <S> Also, that splice needs help anyway <S> Furthermore, that flop-a-dop splice contains some rather overstuffed wire nuts (7-8 wires into a nut that can only take 6), as well as missing or unhooked ground wires. <S> That should be easy for whoever fixes it to fix, since they'll have to take the whole thing apart to get it boxed in any case, though. <A> When panels are replaced wires can be pigtailed to connect a circuit to a breaker. <S> The wires you identified in the first picture look like the insulation is frayed where it gets connected to the breaker <S> and I'm surprised they weren't replacedThe <S> last two pictures are a disaster. <S> You definitely need junction boxes there. <S> I seriously doubt the inspector saw any of this <S> and if the electrician saw this, shame on him for not bringing it to your attention <A> Pigtailing in the panel <S> The frayed wire in your inspector's photo should be pigtailed. <S> In fact, expect pigtailing, because your installer appears to have gone crazy with the wire snips and runted off all your wires to just long enough to reach the breaker they're on right now . <S> Some people are mistaken that this leads to a neater panel; what's better is when the hot and neutral wires are long enough to reach any breaker space. <S> Suppose you add a generator interlock (must be next to main), whole house surge suppressor (preferred near main), and/or large subpanel (preferred near main). <S> Suddenly all your breakers need to move up 2-6 inches, and it'll be pigtail city in there. <S> Junctions without boxes <S> ; oh hell no <S> Unless your entire attic is a NEMA raceway, I can't even imagine what someone was thinking in the attic. <S> "It's the attic <S> so it doesn't matter"??? <S> Those all have to be inside junction boxes . <S> You might even contemplate a large NEMA box (12" or even longer) or a dogbone of two, say 4-11/16" junction boxes connected by a <24" EMT conduit. <S> All steel, is my recommendation, because that takes care of ground and because it's required to terminate that armored cable/MC. <S> Proper cable clamps on the rest. <S> The splice next to the vent pipe is particularly hoary; how many white wires are spliced together there!? <S> Eight!?? <S> Wire nuts can't do that ! <S> That's a great place for a dogbone; split them into four and four with a jumper between them running through the short conduit. <A> Seems like the wire is shorter, but judging by the pictures it seems to reach the breaker OK. <S> I don't think there is a problem because one is a bit shorter than the others. <S> I would be more concerned about how old these wires are and in what bad shape the textile insulation is. <S> I think they should be replaced or at least have insulating shrink tubing put over it. <S> Concerning the other wires floating in thin air in the attic. <S> You are correct. <S> All those should be in junction boxes. <S> I have a hard time believing a licensed electrician was doing that work. <S> You should talk to that company and tell them to fix that.
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Wire-splicing and pigtailing within a loadcenter cabinet (panel enclosure) is expressly permitted by NEC 312.8(A), and is quite safe (provided the splices are made up properly, of course): (A) Splices, Taps, and Feed-Through Conductors. All those cables and flexible metal conduit need to be appropriately connected to junction boxes and the wires connected in the boxes and the boxes covered. Fortunately, this is perfectly fine code wise -- not very pretty (which defeats the original goal of "neatness").
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Why do I read 120v between the hots and neutral in a 240v circuit? I installed a 240v outlet for a new GE stove with its own 50 amp breaker. I ran a 50' section of 6/3 cable, 18' of it from breaker box to a vent in the foundation then I stapled the remaining to floor joist to my 240 outlet, plugged in the new stove and only the clock and stove light work. When I was troubleshooting I found 120 on both hots to neutral and very little on hot to hot same reading at the new outlet. <Q> The two two are from the same phase I would guess. <S> Do u have a double pole breaker? <S> Make a picture from your breaker box wiring. <A> GE's Q-Line of tandem breakers is designed <S> so you have the option to put it on both phases or not. <S> so it is on both phases. <A> Your panel is in the GE Q Line. <S> They do double-stuffs a little bit differently. <S> But the same basic concept applies, you have 1" wide spaces, and each space only has access to one pole of 120V. <S> For more on how spaces work, read my Q&A on "what is a double-stuff breaker". <S> In particular, note what a quadplex breaker is. <S> GE does not do duplex/quadplex. <S> They offer individual 1/2" wide breakers and you sandwich them together into "build your own double-stuffs". <S> If you want a duplex 15/20, you just build it. <S> I believe you see this setup in row 3. <S> Now as far as quadplex breakers, they have the 240V breaker you have right there. <S> Similar to a quadplex, you mount that thing straddling 2 adjacent spaces, so it is grabbing a bus stab from each. <S> That leaves 1/2 space empty above and below. <S> You fill those with 1/2 space wide breakers: <S> You are trying to install it on an even space, in row 1, instead of straddling 2 spaces. <S> I would expect the breaker to be keyed so that is impossible, so I don't know how you forced it in. <S> My best advice is to move the breaker in row 2 up to row 1, and pull out the 1/2" breakers in row 3 out. <S> Split them apart, stick this new breaker in the middle of them, and put all that back into rows 2 and 3.
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That breaker is what we call a "double-stuff" -- it is designed to fit 2 breakers where one normally goes. Double check the wiring your outlet as well. So you essentially have it on the single phase and need to adjust it Essentially, it's a "build your own quadplex" :) If you damaged or altered the breaker, throw it out and get another.
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Is it safe to mount a 65" TV to the wall using 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts instead of 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts? We are trying to mount a 65" TV in the basement. The studs in our wall are 1 and 1/2 inches deep, and behind that is concrete. The wall mount came with 2 and 1/2 inch lag bolts, but we really do not want to drill into the concrete. Can we buy 1 and 1/2 inch lag bolts and will it be safe to put up? <Q> I would cleat the mounting using horizontal 2x4s or some thicker plywood mounted on the surface of the wall. <S> It's less sightly, but you can distribute the weight along more studs. <S> I would not try to mount it across only 2 studs using 1.5" screws. <A> TVs are lighter than they used to be, a 65" TV is only 55 pounds or so, and 2" screws are pretty darn strong. <S> (You probably want 2" screws - you have to get through the drywall, too.) <S> I am going to assume that the drywall is on 2x4's used as furring strips, solidly attached to the wall, capable of supporting the weight of the mounted TV. <S> That effectively magnifies the weight of the TV. <S> Choose a mount that will let you get at least two screws into two furring strips. <S> Make sure you locate the furring strips accurately. <S> You might want to use a newer type cabinet or structural screw because they are a little easier to use than traditional lag screws - for example, the GRK RSS in 1/4" x 2" is readily available here. <S> They are rated for far more than the weight of the TV and mount. <S> (They probably supplied washers with the mount.) <A> Your studs are quite shallow. <S> You might even be fine with 2 inch bolts once you account for the metal thickness of the mount. <S> A lag bolt's pull-out resistance is only as strong as the wood that it is attached to so according to https://www.hunker.com/13401751/lag-screw-pull-out-limits <S> it would be about 200 pounds per bolt. <S> Your wall mount will be attached with 4 bolts, right? <S> Everything should be fine as long as you are not doing chin-ups from the darn thing. <S> Make sure <S> to pre-drill a hole slightly smaller than the shank dead-center of the stud. <S> When screwing in the lag bolt DO <S> NOT OVERTIGHTEN <S> it or else it will turn the wood to mush and its gripping power will be compromised. <S> Use a drill to start the bolt but switch to a wrench for the last 1/2 inch and tighten it flat against the wall; no more, no less.
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If you have a finished wall with a half inch of sheetrock then I would go for at least 1 3/4 inch lag bolts so that they grip as much wood as possible. Use washers big enough to cover the holes in the mount. I would not do this with an articulating mount - one that lets you pull the TV away from the wall and aim it a different direction.
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How large should a hole be for a bolt to go through? I am building a table and I have something like the following: I want to know if I have a 3/8 inch bolt, how large should the hole on the diagonal piece be? I already secured it on the table leg. <Q> It's important to remember the difference between a bolt and a screw (this is handy if you don't know the size of the bolt or screw) <S> Screws have the threads doing the work of holding. <S> In other words, hold a drill bit above the screw. <S> You should still see the threads, but not the shaft. <S> Bolts have a nut doing the work of holding. <S> As such, the hole should be larger than the size of the outer threads . <S> In other words, your bit should cover the shaft and threads. <A> When you buy a hex bolt, the size on the label is the diameter of the shank below the head. <S> The outside diameter (aka major diameter) of the threads will be no larger than this diameter. <S> So for a 3/8" bolt, it's simple - you drill a 3/8" hole. <A> This is a rare case where you want the hole to be somewhat larger than the bolt diameter, to allow some shifting and settling. <S> For a 3/8" bolt the hole should be 1/2" or 5/8" diameter. <S> You must use a fender washer under the nut. <S> The squared and smoothed (deburred) ends of the side and end frame rails are what hold the leg square and prevent wobbling. <S> The bolt is only to keep the leg pressed firmly against the rails. <S> Do not rely on the side loading of the bolt for anything. <S> Wood is notorious for not holding its dimensions while in use. <S> Changes in temperature and humidity, or just drying and aging, will cause joints to shift and loosen over time. <S> (In fact when a leg gets a little shaky I recommend first loosening then tightening the fastening nut, to allow the leg to resettle into the corner.) <S> If the bolt is tight in the hole, it may prevent the leg from fitting snugly against the rails. <S> Then the washer will cut into the angle brace and the leg will wobble under any serious stress. <S> Another cause of poor fit is the difference among the legs. <S> It's very difficult to make all four corner braces, or all four legs, exactly the same. <S> Some day someone is going to remove the legs without marking their positions, and if the bolt holes are a tight fit he will have only 1 chance in 24 of ever having a solid strong table again. <A> It is called 10mm here, but the rule still applies - you drill for the advertised size of the bolt. <S> Neither the hole, nor the bolt, nor the drill bit are exactly 10mm, but everything will fit. <S> The only notable exception is when you drill in stone/concrete/masonry with a hammer drill. <S> The hole gets +10% - +100% larger and you never know how much. <A> You drill holes to the advertised size of the bolt. <S> So a 3/8" bolt gets a 3/8" hole. <S> In your case, alignment may prove tricky. <S> You may need to oversize a bit for that reason. <A> I like the hole to be snug on the threads, with these screws you don’t have a lot of shoulder so if the screw is a wood screw with the shank close to the screw head it is better to have the screw tight in the hole <S> so the head won’t pull thru the hole of over sized. <S> I was talking about the 4 wood screws that attach the brace not the single wood/machine screw <S> /bolt a washer can easily be fitted to the single screw/bolt but not the smaller wood screws. <A> I drilled holes for a living. <S> For very small holes (numbered drills), a clearance hole should be 1 or 2 drill sizes up. <S> For holes under 1/2 inch, drill a clearance hole that is 1/64 larger. <S> For holes larger then 1/2, drill clearance hole 1/32 larger. <S> You should never be drilling the same dia clearance hole as the screw size. <S> No to 3/8 hole for 3/8 screw. <S> Screws and holes are not always straight and you dont want the two mating pieces to bind on the screw. <A> You can use a drill & tap chart to see what size your holes should be. <S> This will show you not only what size to drill for a tap, but also what size for the clearance. <S> The one I found happens to include information for different materials, including specific numbered or lettered drills. <S> The companion one is for metric. <S> Randomly found online charts: <S> https://www.physics.wisc.edu/ishop/tapdrillchart.html <S> https://www.physics.wisc.edu/ishop/metrictapdrillchart.html <S> In my experience, these are just guides. <S> They are often really good guides, but due to the quality (or lack thereof) of the tools I'm using, I've needed to go up or down a size to make things work right. <S> Sometimes it's a personal preference, such as liking a snug fit or a looser fit. <S> Sometimes it depends on the materials or how much precision the project needs. <S> There are a wide variety of these types of charts. <S> I'd recommend trying one out and see if it does what you need. <S> If not, try another one. <S> Or if it's reliably off, stick with it and make sure you remember (or write down) what the adjustment is. <S> Since the one I linked above makes allowances for soft vs hard materials, it seems like it could be a pretty good chart. <S> I haven't used it, so that remains to be seen.
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Your hole should be the size of the screw shaft .
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Possible to have wire mesh fencing plus a couple live wires for wild animals? We bought a small former horse farm a few years a ago. We reinforced the old horse pasture with wire mesh fencing to keep our dogs in. Now we want to fence in a wooded part of our property for the dogs. We want to continue to use the welded wire/mesh fence along with some T posts. However we have a slight black bear problem in our neighborhood. She has been known to wander into our yard to graze and look for fallen nuts near the winter. I've had to patch up our fence a couple of times. I've seen bears take down strong privacy fence too, so I was going to opt for the addition of an electric wire along the outside of the fence. I'm worried about the hot wire touching the not hot welded wire and becoming less effective. I'm also worried about putting the insulators over the welded wire; not sure they will fit. Has anyone had experience with doing this combo? <Q> There are standard electric fence insulators for T-posts. <S> Some only go on one side of <S> the post - others have more options. <S> If you cannot get adequate spacing from the T-posts to prevent shorting, or cannot find insulators that fit with the mesh, you can run a separate electric fence a short distance outside the mesh, on T-posts or on fiberglass posts. <S> With a tightly tensioned mesh and electric fence wire/string/tape little spacing is needed - but if the current mesh fence is loose, it's probably going to be easier to run a second fence, which can generally get away with fewer posts. <S> Electric fences in the woods require regular inspections to be effective. <S> Branches and trees fall on them and short them out, break them, or hold them to the ground. <A> If you have wooden posts: I have cut 1/4" fiberglass poles into 12 inch sections and drilled holes in the top of my posts and inserted the fiberglass. <S> There are metal clips (from farm/feed stores) that are made to fit over the fiberglass rods and hold electric fence wire. <S> Worked great for me. <S> With "T" posts: you may be able to slip the fiberglass rods between the angle in the post With some "T" post clips and achieve the same thing. <A> What you're talking about is an electric fence . <S> This is a standard, common, readily available farm product. <S> The pulse generators, wire and insulators are sold in the very same aisle as you get your regular fencing at the farm store. <S> The readily available kit should suffice. <S> It goes without saying that you won't just hook 120/230V mains power to your fence wire. <S> That would constitute "constructing a lethal booby trap", which is a prison-time felony in every jurisdiction. <A> You need to find insulators that will fit or change your fencing material. <S> Without insulators, you take the risk of the hot wires coming in contact with the mesh and grounding out your supply and tripping some protective device if the fence is grounded or partially grounded from the posts being in the ground. <S> If the fence isn't grounded, you take the risk of energizing the whole thing.... not good for your dogs. <S> If you choose to do this, check local codes to make sure electrified fences are permitted and all warning signs are posted. <S> This is risky, be careful.
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What you're trying to do is actually a standard way electric fences are installed.
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Lamp base out of wood, containing wires. Is there a safe way? I want to build a lamp socket base out of wood. In general I'd have a total of three lamps sockets hanging from it, which I'd feed through drill holes and would wire together in a hollowed out part of the wood. _________________|_________________| <- wooden board/slab | | | | | | O O O <-lamp sockets This means electrics and flammable material together.Naturally, this brings up some concerns as I don't want to burn down my house.Is this in general a bad idea, or how can I achieve this in a safe way? Additional infoView from top on hollowed out fixture with cable canal: cable feeds from bulbs ↓ ↓ ↓ ____________________ | | | O------O------O | |____________________| ↑ wiring all together <Q> I know you've seen LED replacement "bulbs" that screw in, and you know those fail. <S> What is failing isn't the LED . <S> It's the conversion power supply which converts 230V to 3V for the LEDs, which tend to be built very cheaply. <S> You could fix them, but it's not worth it. <S> Don't let that scare you away from LED tech . <S> The actual LED emitters <S> proper have an extremely long service life. <S> They will not burn out, probably in our lifetimes. <S> So anytime you're homebrewing a lamp, the right answer is to use LEDs because LEDs use low-voltage and run cool . <S> There's a quasi-standard for projects like yours, to use 12 volts DC -- the LEDs won't run directly on that, but there are lots of ways to buy 12 volt LED modules that simply contain three LEDs and a resistor. <S> The resistor will last as long as the LEDs. <S> To power that, you use a common, commercial off the shelf 230V-12V "wall wart" type power supply, which is listed by the relevant safety agencies - BSI, TUV, UL, whoever you use. <S> (CE is pretty worthless when dealing with China). <S> That means you are never touching mains voltage. <S> An electrical short could still cause a fire, but 99% of such fire-starters are arcing faults across open connections, and 12V doesn't really like to arc. <S> All the "failable" electronics are in the wall-wart, all the rest is wires, LEDs and resistors. <S> The wall-wart will be what fails, just swap it. <A> This will probably be fine. <S> Electrics and wood are not a good combination if the electrics get hot. <S> Electrics get hot if there is a lot of current flowing through a poor joint. <S> If you want to fit three 500W incandescent lamps, and you are using a 120V supply, then you would need 12.5 amps; and this is a lot of current. <S> If you are using 220V mains it would only be 7A, which is quite a bit better. <S> Realistically however, you probably don't want anything more than three 200W equivalent LED lamps (which are 23W each). <S> Even with 120V, that is only about 0.6A. <S> The important point is that heating in junctions and wires is proportional to the square of the current. <S> Just over half an amp is not a particular problem (but it's always a good idea to make your joints as cleanly as possible). <S> There are two additional points: <S> Firstly, if you are relying on the low current consumption for safety, you need to ensure that nobody (who doesn't understand the construction) can swap in a high current lamp. <S> If you use a fitting with the LED built in, this is assured. <S> Secondly, whether this is legal or not will depend on where you live. <A> I'm a little concerned that the existing answers are based on an assumption that you are familiar with wiring codes and good electrical wiring practices. <S> There is nothing incorrect in those answers, but there are many considerations left out that could affect safety. <S> To get a reliable answer, you should really include the design detail. <S> Even with low voltage LED lighting, you can create problems for yourself. <S> A few considerations that come to mind: <S> This is a ceiling fixture. <S> If you use a wall wart to power LEDs, how will you connect it to mains power? <S> You could stick an outlet in the ceiling, but how will you secure the wall wart to it? <S> How will you ensure that the weight of the fixture is never pulling on the wall wart or its wire, including during installation or servicing? <S> Three lamps means tapping power for each one. <S> How and where will you make those connections? <S> How will you keep the connections from getting mechanically stressed? <S> How will you ensure good electrical joints, and connection insulation to avoid shorting? <S> Do you know what gauge wire you will need to carry the maximum current there could be if someone inadvertently puts high wattage incandescent bulbs in the sockets in the future? <S> How will you mechanically support each lamp? <S> so the weight of the lamp isn't pulling on the electrical connections. <S> If the lamps have heavy glass shades, hanging them only by the wire is a bad idea. <S> Your fixture will generally have less risk if you're using LEDs, but it will still take good design and wiring principles for it to be safe. <A> You mention two very different things: I want to build a lamp socket out of wood. <S> This implies the base of the light bulb is inside the wood - i.e., a hole in the wood with the socket embedded in it. <S> With that I would be very concerned, even with LEDs, about heat. <S> I'd have a total of three lamps hanging from it <S> On the other hand, if you have light bulbs hanging from the wood, even just a few inches away, the risk is much less as the heat dissipates into the air instead of directly into the wood. <S> As mentioned elsewhere, if you use some sort of LED device that is not a screw/plug-in bulb/socket then you can easily avoid the problem of someone (10 years from now when the LED driver wears out) screwing in a 60-Watt incandescent bulb they found lying around and starting a fire. <S> If you do use a non-bulb LED device, try to find a high-quality device. <S> DLC is a key certification to look for. <S> On the other extreme, make sure at a minimum that the devices are UL listed (or similar, not "CE" which effectively means nothing at all or "FCC" which has to do with radio frequency interference but tells you nothing about the quality & safety of the device). <S> A well-known brand and a long warranty are not guarantees but are good indicators of quality.
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If each lamp will be just a socket, bulb, and featherweight shade, the wire, itself, may be enough to support it if you use appropriate wire, and mechanically secure both ends
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Water always coming out of my perimeter drain around my house I have a brand new energy efficient home that was built in 2019 as a part of a new development and of course it has a perimeter drain system with a pipe coming out to the edge of the street. I just noticed that water never stops coming out of my perimeter drain. All the new houses around me does not have that issue. My house is the only one with water constantly coming out and the builder said there's no issue and in fact it's a good thing that water is always coming out as it's a sign the system is working great. I'm not convinced since no other houses have the water coming out like mine. Also when the propane company comes to fill my underground propane tank, they told me the water around the opening is higher than usual. What could be the issue and how to fix it? My house still within the 1 year warranty so i want to fix any potential problem. Thank you in advance <Q> There is water in the ground, and the drain is moving the water to the gutter at the curbside. <S> Your builder is correct, the drain is working. <S> The real question is: where is the groundwater coming from? <S> Have you had a lot of rain lately? <S> Are your neighbors running their sprinklers in the winter? <S> It's also possible that your (or your neighbor's) potable water main is leaking. <S> Did your builder do any sort of percolation test or evaluation of the ground water situation? <A> Localized underground drainage is common. <S> Water doesn't follow many rules, and who knows what's going on down there between you and your neighbors? <S> You might just be the luck one over a vein. <S> There are several homes on my block with almost year-round pumping going on, while mine basically dries up in winter. <S> The good news is that you have a gravity-driven system and aren't paying for a sump pump to run frequently. <A> First a modern house with a sealed chamber furnace & AC or a heat pump will have a constant water flow and may be being dumped into the premier drain. <S> if you think you have a leak make sure every water tap is turned off and go check the water meter. <S> No movement your water source is the heating and cooling system or ground water. <S> With a high water level around your propane tank would bother me but there could be a spring there that adds to any possible water runoff. <S> I would check the water meter first, then be looking at tying a French drain into the perimeter drain if you have enough elevation to drain the propane tank <S> well I have found many springs over the years that were not detected when we set the foundation and ended up with moisture problems that in some cases French drains solved the issue in others sealing the slab was needed.
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You also could be the lucky owner of a home that is built on or near a natural spring.
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How can I repair a leak in a PVC water line without bringing down the system for an extended period of time? I have a small leak in 1" PVC pipe at a connection to a shutoff valve. It looks like not enough PVC cement was used. Taking this apart to repair it will require the entire household water system to be shut off. I would like to replace the valve/pipe as quickly as possible. Is there a fast curing PVC cement that I can use on a potable water system? I would like the system to not be down more than a couple hours. NOTE: The leak is actually at the connection of a PVC valve. It looks like there wasn't enough solvent/cement used. UPDATE: There were a lot of great suggestions. I ended up following Ed Beal's answer for a permanent fix. The cure time chart on the cement said I only needed to wait 20 minutes before pressurizing the system again. Took me 30 minutes from start to finish (not including the wait time to turn the water back on). So far no leaks. <Q> I would use Oatey “hot” glue it sets faster than regular but cost a bit more , only get a small can as it evaporates faster also. <S> You can see the label most standard solvents require an hour or longer depending on the diameter , but hot glue is ready in as short as 10 minutes. <S> Primers also help but hot glue doesn’t need primer or the orange stuff I use <S> doesn’t. <S> Also the air temp and working pressure make a difference, colder takes longer to set. <S> Added: <S> most of the systems I have worked on are less than 80 psi <S> I checked the lava glue I use (Oatey orange lava) <S> the sheet said 2 minutes assembly and cure <S> but truthfully I think it is more like 15 seconds. <S> I have pressurized within 10 minutes , the chart shows an hour <S> but that is for pipe up to 1-1/4” at up to 180 psi. <S> I have done many repairs on 1” and below with just hot glue and had the water back on within 10-15 minutes of the last joint with out failure. <S> I always tighten the lid and store on the lid the cab tends to seal that way <S> but I usually have a brand new can available also. <A> PVC isn't connected with adhesive, it's solvent welded. <S> The "cement" is actually a solvent which dissolves the surface of pipe and fitting, fusing them into one piece as it evaporates. <S> The real trick is getting the stuff together before that happens, because you only have a handful of seconds to work with. <S> Proper planning and preparation help. <S> If you've never done it before it may be worth buying an extra fitting to practice with. <S> That way you won't have to cut off any mistakes. <S> The solvent is also a two part process. <S> There's a colored primer which you apply first to both pipe and fitting, you don't need to rush that. <S> Immediately afterwards you apply the solvent to pipe and fitting and press them together. <S> After a ten count it should be done. <S> You should also know that potable water systems are typically CPVC, while drains are ordinary PVC. <S> I would suggest double checking the printing on the existing pipe. <A> This is a two part epoxy putty that you mix together and then wrap the leaking connection. <S> I would clean the connection very well and sand the area to rough it up before starting. <S> This will allow you to make the repair without ever cutting the pipe. <S> This repair will be looked down on as a "hack" and not a permanent solution, but in a pinch its a workable option. <S> It does have an official cure time of about an hour <S> but it will start to get hard in minutes. <S> This might mean leaving the water off for a little longer than a fast setting PVC glue, but you also have to take into account the time it takes to cut out the old fitting and replace it. <S> The putty will also be a cheaper option. <A> You might not need PVC glue at all. <S> The catch with, say, a Sharkbite is you need square-on pressure to push the connectors in. <S> This is problematic for repairing existing in-ground pipes (you can't exactly "pull" the pipe). <S> The compression coupler solves that by allowing you to attach to either side and then screw to either each other, or the main body. <S> Rubber gaskets keep the pipe from leaking, and they are rated for the kind of pressure you see in a main pipe. <S> Best of all, there's no glue to wait for. <S> In this same vein is a slide repair coupling , but those typically involve PVC glue. <A> If there is a push-on fitting that meets your needs, such as from Sharkbite or one of their competitors, you can have the whole job done in less than one minute. <S> A photo of your plumbing would clarify, but I'd be surprised if there isn't a push on fitting that would work. <S> Please don't expect anything you apply externally to work properly. <S> Either use real cement or a push on fitting. <A> Flex tape (or one of its products) <S> The ads for flextape show it being used underwater, so you don't need to shut off/dry the leak, you can patch it up while it's running (at least according to the ads). <S> If you want something more like a sealant than a tape, the same company also does a kind of tar/rubber thing.
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If you're looking for a somewhat quick fix without much work, you can take a look at some plumbing epoxy putty such as this . A viable alternative to gluing would be a screw-tight compression coupling like this one .
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How do electric hot water heaters explode and what can be done to prevent that from happening? My neighbor and good friend is a union steamfitter, and general handyman. He had to replace his electric hot water heater last year and he did it himself. My wife and I have to replace ours now, and he says its a super simple job and he has offered to help me do it. I came across this article and many others that warn that these heaters can actually explode if installed improperly, and it has us a little concerned (to say the least!). I understand that the knee jerk, default response in these situations is: if you feel uncomfortable doing this yourself, have a professional do it. And I get that, I really do. I'm just trying to weigh all our options here. So I ask: under what conditions can electric hot water heaters explode? It sounds like (if I'm reading these articles correctly) that they explode when both the temperature is set too high and the expansion tank is malfunctioning. So if that's the case, then my followup question might be: OK, well, how hot is "too hot" and how can I test my expansion tank to confirm its functioning properly?! However, if there are other instances where these types of heaters can explode, I'd like to know about them, and what the diagnostic/operating procedure is to prevent those situations from happening. At the end of the day, if I don't feel 100% confident in the process, we'll have a pro do the install. But if its as simple as checking a few things or taking care to avoid certain specific pitfalls, I'd rather save the ~$2500 and just do the install with the help of my handy friend. <Q> Yes, that's a scary article but keep in mind that both safety devices have to fail to have the tank explode. <S> The pressure release valve and the high limit on the thermostat both have to malfunction. <S> Both of them to my knowledge operate at around 200 degrees <S> F. <S> The maximum you can set most water heaters is 150 degrees F but most recommendations are to set them at no higher than 120 degrees <S> F. <S> Also you should check and test the pressure release valve periodically for leaks and operation. <S> Replacing the water heater is a relatively easy task. <S> Just make sure it's completely full before turning on the breaker or you could burn out the elements. <S> Also, avoid using those corrugated pipe. <S> Sweat copper tubing all the way. <S> Your steamfitter friend can instruct you on this. <S> Good luck <A> Consider the sources; it is plumbers giving you a scare story to get you to hire them. <S> See also "aluminum wiring". <S> It will take a chain of 3 events at once: failure of the thermostat, causing the heater to overheat the water, boiling it. <S> the pressure relief valve fails to operate, preventing the pressure from simply blowing out the relief valve; that's what it's for. <S> water is unable to backflow out to the street, which would also relieve the pressure. <S> This would fail because someone fit a "check valve" to prevent backflow without also fitting a pressure relief valve on the house side . <S> If it's so unlikely, why does it happen at all? <S> Because it turns into dominoes. <S> First, the city requires retrofit of an anti-backflow check valve. <S> The family either skips the pressure relief valve, or sites it poorly. <S> Second, the house's normal pressure changes cause the pressure relief valve to spit water on their stuff. <S> They angrily cap it off. <S> Solved! <S> Third, the hot water heater's pressure relief valve starts to spit (or is ancient and is silted up or rusted solid). <S> Capping the other one off worked, so they cap this off too. <S> Then, they are down to a single point of failure, the thermostat. <A> An electric water heater explodes when the water in it starts boiling, producing pressurized steam that causes the heater to rupture. <S> In order for this to happen, three things all need to fail; if any one of them works properly, no explosion will happen. <S> First, the thermostat needs to get stuck in the "on" position. <S> If it's working normally, or if it sticks in the "off" position, the water in the heater will never get hot enough to start boiling. <S> Second, the high limit switch needs to fail. <S> This switch is a second, non-resetting thermostat that cuts off all power to the water heater if it gets too hot. <S> It's set at the factory to a temperature higher than the main thermostat can be set to, <S> but well below the boiling point of water. <S> Third, the pressure relief valve needs to get stuck closed. <S> This is a valve, usually on the side of the water heater, that will open to release steam or pressurized water. <S> It's set to a pressure above normal water pressure, but well below the maximum pressure the heater can handle. <S> The other safety mechanisms are configured at the factory and are pretty much foolproof, but this one can easily be disabled by improper installation. <A> Well, the answer is right there in the article <S> you linked: Always check your hot water heater’s pressure relief valve to ensure it is in good working condition. <S> If you have any concerns that your water heater is not functioning accurately, have an inspector come <S> take a look at it. <S> The best precaution you can take to avoid having this happen to you, is to set your water heater’s temperature no higher than your manufacturers suggested setting. <S> Note that it talks about the pressure relief valve (technically temperature & pressure relief valve), not an expansion tank. <S> The pressure relief valve is usually mounted on the side of the water heater and looks similar to this (on a new water heater, the piping won't be there): <S> To test this valve, remove the piping if you can't see where it terminates (you'll need to see if water is coming out the end). <S> If you can see the end, you can leave the pipe on. <S> Carefully lift the lever on the valve up. <S> Do not lift it all the way as that will lock it in the open position. <S> If you get water coming out, you're good. <S> If not, or the valve is stuck, you'll need to replace the valve. <S> Regarding the temperature setting, if you stick to the safe range indicated on the thermostat (usually it will say something like danger of scalding for the higher ranges), you will be fine.
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When installing a water heater, the most important thing is to make sure the pressure relief valve has a free-flowing connection to somewhere where the water can drain.
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Main panel mounted directly to cinderblock wall My main electrical panel is mounted directly to my basement wall, and I noticed last night while I had it open that it is starting to show signs of rust/oxidation around the mounting screws. What is the correct and safe way to get a piece of plywood in between the panel and the block wall? Should I be able to simply pull the panel out away from the wall far enough to slide a piece of plywood in or is there disassembly involved? Thanks <Q> I usually seal the plywood so it will last longer and look nicer. <S> All my phone and data patch blocks are hung with plywood. <S> I do this in unfinished basements as this extends the life of the panel if the wall is damp. <A> Assuming the connections are not rigid, it shouldn't be too hard to temporarily pull it away. <S> Just be safe, pull the meter socket first. <A> My answer is just a little different from @Ed <S> Beal 's. <S> There should be enough give in the wiring to lift it off the wall an inch or two without straining any of the connections. <S> If that is the case, I would just cut two pressure treated 2x4's a little wider than the panel, and set them between the panel and the wall, positioned so the boards are behind the mounting holes in the panel. <S> Fasten the boards to the wall and the panel to the boards <S> and you have some breathing room. <S> It wouldn't hurt to put a little silicone on where the rust has started, might prevent the rust from spreading. <S> Keep in mind <S> there are energized parts in there <S> even with the main breaker off - don't do it if you can't do it safely.
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You may be able to pull the panel off the wall and attach the plywood then screw into the plywood. Use pressure treated so it won't rot.
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Furnace: pipe is leaking when switched to air-conditioning I observed that when I enable air-conditioner , after awhile the valve (red one on the photo attached; correct me if it's called differently) starts leaking, the water drips from under the red "valve". The pipe which is next to "red valve" is fine, no leaks, it withdraws the water in to drain hole in the floor. I wiggled it, but it looks it fits in quite tightly. I'm not sure if it is possible to replace it or put some rubber ring under it. Is it common problem? What would you recommend to do?Thanks. <Q> That plug is where I add biocides to prevent mold buildup in the pan, mold is the main cause of obstructions , if the pan is starting to drip you probably have some cleaning to do as the water should not build up in the pan and a small layer has probably raised the water level because it is acting like a dam. <S> I have had customers ask how can mold grow in there it’s only water and metal, <S> well this is almost true but dust and fine organics get trapped in the coils and drip down to the pan, when the conditions are right <S> a mold colony starts growing, For this reason pros recommend having your unit serviced, adding this biocide treatment is a requirement for large commercial systems to prevent legionnaires disease <S> , I have not heard of it in home systems <S> but it is possible. <S> So you may need to clean and treat your pan or eventually the drain line will be totally blocked and the water may come out in other areas less noticed and cause problems. <A> I think the other answers make it clear what's going on, but I wanted to add some more details. <S> That red cap is probably not meant to be water tight, so when the water level in the pan is high, it will drip. <S> What is common in my area is that there is a "main" drain line, usually plumbed with PVC pipe (not that flext tubing you have) that will drain condensate into a drain pipe in the house somewhere. <S> The second drain hole will be plumbed to a "backup" drain that will drip in a safe, but obvious place. <S> It might drip out of the eaves of the house or onto the driveway, etc. <S> In cases where a secondary drain is not feasible or to make sure a leak never gets out of control, an A/C tech can install a float valve on the second drain hole that will cut power to the unit when the first drain gets clogged. <S> The drain water backs up into the second hole and trips the float valve. <S> If the A/C can't run, it can't generate condensate and leak. <S> You're forced to fix the drain problem rather than ignoring a drip from the secondary drain. <S> Anyway, my recommendation would be to make sure that primary drain is going where it is supposed to. <S> It really should be re-done properly with PVC. <S> Also, installing a float valve is pretty important in your case because an overflow in the pan is going to drip water all over your furnace, possibly causing some expensive damage. <A> That looks like just a thin plastic filler plug for a second drain hole. <S> If you pull it out or unscrew it there's probably threads under it. <S> You can buy a pipe plug and some thread sealant at a local hardware store to plug it properly. <A> Those two openings are for draining the pan that catches the condensate off the coil. <S> One is usually a bit higher than the other. <S> Make sure drain line is attached to the lowest hole. <S> If it is correct or or there is no difference I’d look for some blockage in the drain line. <S> A dirty filter can also cause draining problems by increasing the internal vacuum pressure which holds more water in the pan. <S> The drain line is not a standard looking arrangement. <S> Usually a 3/4” minimum pvc pipe is used and must have a trap installed to prevent the unit from sucking air back into the plenum. <S> When a trap is missing the suction drawn back into the unit causes inefficient draining that allows the water to stack up in the pan which also could cause your symptoms. <S> For details on why a trap is so important for proper draining see this link
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The point is when you see that dripping, you know the main drain is clogged.
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capacity of my electric panel I see a 100 Amp breaker in the mains, which means my electric panel is 100 Amps.I see may arrays of circuit breakers on it, as many as 18. When I add the total amps on them, it adds upto 375 Amps. Although, I use 1 dishwasher, 1 microwave, 1 dryer, 1 washer, 3-4 Ac's and lights, 1 sauna, I haven't observed mains or individual breakers going down. I have 40 Amp double pole and a 30 Amp breakers among them and rest are 15 Amp and 20 Amp. I am trying to install a Tesla charger, which has a recommended breaker of 60 AMP. Is there any possibility to support a new breaker? I do see empty slots. e.g., if I use 60 AMP charger in the night, I will not use any other appliance, will that work? please guide. of course, last alternative is to upgrade to 200 AMP panel, which is easy response. <Q> If it wasn't a QO or Murray panel... <S> I would say this is just too close . <S> However, I think we can "cheat it", especially if you are willing to fit a subpanel. <S> I'll disregard the 120V loads for now; it looks like a gas dryer. <S> Based on what you've mentioned, it appears the large 240V loads are 30A sauna 40A range <S> If there are others, do the same thing with them. <S> Add a subpanel for your large loads <S> So add a small (16 space) <S> "QO" main-lug subpanel right next to this panel, and migrate your large loads there - the sauna, 40A/range, and whatever other large appliances I haven't deduced. <S> Feed that subpanel from an appropriate 2-pole breaker in the panel. <S> Interlock the subpanel and 60A EVSE breakers With this beauty, a $20 QO2DTI generator interlock. <S> This clips onto a 2-pole breaker and interlocks with a 2-pole breaker below it (or 1-pole breaker). <S> Only one can be on at a time: the loads in the subpanel, or the EVSE. <S> Note that normally, this is used where the breakers are backfeeding, and so the breakers need to be bolted down, requiring a separate bolt-down kit. <S> However, since these are normal loads, they do not require a bolt-down. <S> Now you will need to turn off the one that's on, and turn on the one you want. <S> But it should solve the load factors in your panel. <S> The 120V loads seem like a lot, but #1 they are split among the two poles, so it's only half what it appears; and #2 <S> they are not likely to be all heavily loaded at the same time. <S> Probably your worst loads will be your 120V <S> A/C units, and you should make sure there are evenly loaded on the 2 poles (2 on each pole). <A> What is a major issue is that the combined currents of all appliances that are turned ON must NOT exceed the rating of the main breaker. <S> The reason for a safety margin is that when large electric motors startup the current can briefly be three times the run current, assuming the motor is not overloaded. <S> You should NEVER encounter a situation where you are consuming most of what your breaker panel can offer. <S> To run your Tesla charger make sure other high current loads are manually turned OFF. <S> This is the compromise you have to make, or fork out lots of money for a 200 amp panel. <A> This really feels too close. <S> You only have 40A available once the charger is going, and you run the AC at night. <S> Heating/cooling is one of the biggest energy usages in a house, and that doesn't stop at night. <S> I think downgrading to a 30A charger should be safe, (and will still recharge your car overnight.)
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Overall adding breakers to empty slots is not an issue. Ideally you want some safety room as well, at least twenty amps to spare.
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Does a storm door help prevent heat loss? One person advised me that I'll cut down on the heat loss in my kitchen by installing a storm door. Another said I'd get better results by replacing the door itself, and then I can either install a storm or not, it doesn't really make any difference. I'm confused. My existing kitchen door is well hung and with no drafts around the edges. However, I think it's at least 40 years old, maybe more. What is causing a problem is that it has some glass panels, and they are made of single pane glass. My infrared gadget, and my hand, are both telling me I'm losing a lot of heat in those glass panels. <Q> Does a storm door help prevent heat loss? <S> Yes, unequivocally. <S> The closed storm door traps a pocket of air between the screen and entry doors. <S> That trapped air significantly slows heat transference from indoors to the great outdoors. <S> How much? <S> From the ACCA Manual J, it looks like adding a storm to any door increases the R-value of the door by about 2. <S> Here are some better questions to ask: Would a storm door or a new door prevent more heat loss? <S> To answer this, we need to know what type of door do you have now, what type of door you'd replace it with (a steel or fiberglass insulated door?), and which storm door you'd choose. <S> A typical wooden door has an R-value of about 3, whereas steel or fiberglass insulated doors are around 7. <S> If your existing door is not insulated, you can gain about four R by replacing the door. <S> Which is the better value? <S> This depends on your choice of doors. <S> A good R-7 insulated exterior door with small windows can be had for about $250. <S> Storm doors range from half that to twice that. <S> Which is the difference in cost between a storm door and a new insulated door with thermal pane glass? <S> Use this to calculate the $/R of each choice. <S> I replaced one of my exterior wooden doors recently with an insulated fiberglass door. <S> The before/after infrared photos can measure the difference. <S> We can also hear the difference, insulation also blocks sound transference. <S> Depending on your climate, it might make sense to do both. <S> In my climate (PNW), the convenience of not having another door to deal with upon every entrance/exit is certainly worth the potential loss of 2 R. Doors are a very small proportion of the walls so they don't make a huge difference in heating, unless they're not air sealed. <S> In northern Michigan where I grew up, the winters are much colder and everyone has storm doors. <A> If you replace the door with another wooden door with a single pane of glass, you won't see any significant benefit. <S> Unless you go to an architectural salvage yard, you'll probably have a difficult time finding another wooden door with single pane glazing. <S> You can find wooden doors at your local big-box, but they'll come with significantly improved glazing and eye-watering prices ($1500 is about the cheapest at my local favorite). <S> If you install a brand new door, you'll most likely get a steel or fiberglass door with a foam core. <S> (Doors like this are available off-the-shelf at my local big-box for $150-$300). <S> This will provide significantly better insulation. <S> It will also come with better glass (double pane, low-e coatings, etc) which will show additional insulating improvement. <S> If you add a storm door, you'll get the added benefits of another layer of insulation (the door itself) plus the trapped air between the doors. <S> Doing both - replacing the door and adding a storm door - will give you the best possible insulation value. <S> The question is how much improvement are you willing to spend for and how long will it take for your investment to pay off (both financially and in comfort factor). <A> I'm going to disagree with the other answers and say that a storm door will provide a very marginal insulation ability. <S> It may not even be worth your time depending on what your actual problems are. <S> A storm door will protect the main door from high winds which can stop a lot of drafts if that is an issue. <S> High winds can force cold air through the cracks of the door, but in this case, we're not actually insulating - we are providing a form of sealing. <S> The additional physical door and the air gap will reduce air circulation. <S> A storm door can also help protect the door from debris and keep it cleaner. <S> It can keep leaves, dirt, etc from accumulating on the threshold, and that can improve the life of the seal on the bottom of the door. <S> Cheap single pane windows on a storm door will do almost nothing for radiative heat loss. <S> The window will feel very cold, and the window on your door will also be just as cold as it is now. <S> A nicer double pane storm door will probably rival the cost of a new main door, so that seems like an odd choice. <S> A few sources: <S> So, forget the storm door. <S> Go with the caulk, spray foam, mastic, and weatherstripping first. <S> Sealing the air leaks is the place to start. <S> Energy Vangaurd <S> Blocking wind is essentially mitigating forced-air leaks around the door. <S> However, the energy savings from storm doors are minimal. <S> Aside from air leaks, doors aren’t a significant source of home energy loss. <S> Save on Energy R value of metal storm door with single pane glass: 1.00 Colorado Energy Org R value of 1. <S> That's not much at all. <A> Yes a storm door will help prevent heat loss. <S> Heat loss is measured in resistance (r-value or u-value) and generally speaking the thicker an assembly the slower the heat will move through it. <S> Wood has an R-value of 1 per inch, so if you add an additional 2.75" of storm door plus the air space you'll add <S> at least R2.75. <S> Current triple pane 2 surface triple low-e coated windows can achieve close to R7. <S> But having both the old door and a new door in front of it would certainly prevent more heat loss than just replacing the old door. <S> Generally speaking if you are worried about energy you do air sealing first as that is the cheapest and most cost effective way to reduce heat loss. <S> A good book is : Insulate and Weatherize : For Energy Efficiency at Home <S> Also a link to energy.gov that talks about doors: https://www.energy.gov/energysaver/design/windows-doors-and-skylights/doors
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If wind and a poorly sealed main door are big concerns, a storm door might be worthwhile, but for general "insulation" purposes... Probably not.
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Would triple pane give me better results than double pane in a key location (bathroom)? I am ordering replacement windows. I'm going to go with double-hung in the bedrooms and bathroom, and casement above the kitchen sink. Double-hung vinyl with added foam insulation in the frames. But in the bathroom I want the best protection from heat loss I can possibly get, because the toilet is inches away from the window and that's not a place one wants to feel chilly. Would going up to triple pane in that location help? Is there anything else that would help, in terms of either the order of the custom window, or the installation method, or anything else you can think of? I am in upstate NY. <Q> In general, yes, you would expect triple to outperform double but that cannot be applied to all windows. <A> You should be looking at the window's U-Factor . <S> (Lower is better.) <A> Whether you do double or triple pane windows you're still going to have a chill coming off that bathroom window when it's cold out. <S> The key, especially for the bathroom is to install an energy efficient window covering. <S> You need to look at R values. <S> For example, a wall has an R value of about 19. <S> A good window with a U value of .20 has an R factor of about 5. <S> You want to purchase a good insulating blind. <S> Honeycomb type blinds which aren't super expensive usually work well and have an R value of 3 to 5 or even higher. <S> You can also do blinds with side tracks that should seal out the chill and would have higher R values. <S> The trick is to ad the R value of your window (maybe 5) to the R value of your insulating blind and try to get as close to 19 as you can. <S> It'll be worth it. <A> I found that the Pella 250 series had a U factor of .28. <S> I chose the 350 series with foam insulation in the frame and triple pane glass, and that got it down to .17.
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A triple-pane is not necessarily a better insulator than a double-pane. You need to check the specific ratings of the windows you are considering. In New York, windows below 0.25 are recommended by Energy Star, and you can get windows going all the way down to 0.20 and below.
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How can I increase the friction on the surface of PVC pipe? So, I have sort of an odd question - I need a coating (or something) that will increase the friction on a CPVC pipe as much as possible. Specifically, I rigged some CPVC pipe to mount a light from my bicycle rack (I am a commuter.) However, the PVC pipe is apparently not a standard size of bicycle tubing, and even as tight as I can get it the light tends to slide around a bit. Would some sort of rubberized coating work? (I suppose I could put some inntertube on there, but I suspect stretching it tightly reduces the friction if provides.) <Q> Most bike clamps come with rubber « <S> inserts » for exactly that reason - inner tube cut to fit will work, but consider roughening the pipe surface with glass paper. <A> Use rubber cement to glue a strip of innertube to the PVC, or wrap the pipe with a single layer of duct tape. <A> You'd probably get better suggestions at Bicycles , since this is a bike improvement project not a home improvement project, but... <S> I doubt you'd see a significant reduction in friction from stretching the rubber, but what you're really after is making the thing the clamp goes around thick enough that the clamp can apply proper squeezing pressure. <S> You're not really worried about the friction level. <S> If you'd gone up a size in your choice of piping, you'd probably be able to get the light's clamp to tighten down and hold just fine on the exact same material.
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Wrapping some inner tube, duct tape, or just about anything else around it should work just fine.
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How to hang wood letters I have cut out a word made of 1/2" poplar and would like to hang it in the wall. I originally thought of using my (non plunge) router with a keyhole bit to cut two keyholes, but I'm afraid that the wood would be too thin. Is there any way to do this nice other than picture hangers? Edit:I don't want to glue it to the wall because that would cause too much damage to the wall. My current hair brain idea is to drill a hole with a forstner bit and then maybe use a t router bit to cut a slot for the keyhole <Q> Since this is one piece of wood screw two of these eyes to the back in strategic locations. <A> I can think of two alternatives that would be workable. <S> Glue the wooden letters directly to the wall. <S> Construction adhesive would be one type of glue that would work but since the letters are probably rather light weight you may also be able to make gel type super glue work as well. <S> This approach will likely work best on a drywall type wall material rather than a fancy wood covered wall because at some future time when you want the letters gone it will be easier to repair the surface of the wall. <S> Glue the letters to an appropriately sized thin piece of clear acrylic plastic or Lexan. <S> Then simply hang the plastic panel with some simple hangers or screws. <A> I would use mounting tape. <S> It should work with letters up to about 12", maybe larger. <S> Scotch outdoor mounting tape is the one that I use, even indoors when I need high strength. <S> You will likely damage the wall when it is removed, but probably less than if they were glued.
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Hang it on picture frame hooks
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how to remove some small rocks at the bottom of a 4' vertical water pipe 2 1/2" diameter? Two small rocks about 1" are blocking access to main water shutoff valve in 4-5' vertical pipe about 2 1/2" in diameter. Need to snag them! pipe is outside residence. <Q> Try sucking them out with a vacuum cleaner, preferably a wet vac. <S> Most of them have hoses that will fit down a 2 1/2" pipe. <S> Good luck <A> Find a PVC pipe cap that is a little smaller than the inside diameter of the 2-1/2" pipe. <S> The open end of the cap must face away from the main body of the rod. <S> Fill the cap with sticky wax, Play-Doh, thick grease or a similar substance. <S> Lower the assembly into the pipe. <S> When it reaches the bottom, press gently to deform the sticky substance around the rock(s) and lift slowly to retrieve them. <S> Inspired by the old-timey " sounding lead " with a hollow bottom containing tallow, used to measure the depth of water below a ship and simultaneously, the character of the bottom based on whatever sticks to the tallow. <A> You could try contacting the town to see if they could shut off the water for you. <S> The main water shutoff is usually part of their jurisdiction, and they should be able to help you. <S> Normally the main shutoff has a cover on it which would prevent objects from falling inside. <S> This is definitely not a job you would want to attempt on your own since it connects directly to the water main and you would be liable for damages.
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If they are not able to remove the stones, the only other alternative would be for them to dig down to the main valve and replace the shutoff riser. Tape or otherwise affix the pipe cap to the end of a length of rod, dowel or other convenient material.
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Light switch no power when on I have this bathroom light switch, when I turned it on, I tested power between red and black wire, there is no power If I turned it off, there is power red/black line How does it work exactly? I don’t understand this UPDATE 1 According to answers below, this is a 3-way switch but it unnecessary because there is only one switch for the bathroom light. My goal is to move this switch to a different location. Right now it is OUTSIDE the bathroom. I want to turn it inside the bathroom. So should I continue to use this same switch and the way it is routed? Or should I take advantage of this and re-wire it? <Q> What you're trying to do isn't going to work <S> Judging by the extra Romex freshly brought into this box, it looks like you're trying to power an additional lamp or outlet from here, and specifically, from this here switch. <S> Not gonna happen . <S> At least not the way you intend. <S> However, a new thing changes the picture: Smart switches. <S> There's good chance <S> we can save this. <S> If you can pull the other switch out, and get us some photos of what's going on in the back of the box, we will be able to advise. <S> Why you can't just pull wire to any old place <S> Your new branch needs "always-hot" and "neutral" if it's an outlet, or "switched-hot" and "neutral" if it's a lamp or fan. <S> In 3-way circuits, the downside is they almost never have the 2 wires you need in any given switch location. <S> The upside is, they have extra wires, and with smart switches, we can take advantage of that. <A> If I’m understanding correctly, you’re connecting a voltmeter (or similar device) to the two terminals of the switch. <S> Because there is no (or very little) resistance there, the voltage is the same on both terminals and your meter reads zero. <S> When the switch is “off”, it is (very near) infinite resistance between the terminals. <S> Your voltmeter draws very little current so it is seeing full mains voltage, conducted through the load. <S> If you were to disconnect the load (e.g. unscrew the light bulb) <S> then you’d measure zero volts in both cases. <S> (It might not be quite zero when off due to capacitance between wires.) <A> That is a three way switch. <S> The black screw is a common terminal that switches to two different terminals on the switch. <S> If you look at the other side of the switch, you'll see another brass screw. <S> The black terminal will switch between the two other terminals depending on the toggle position. <S> Hope this helps.
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This and one other switch should be operating whatever is being switched. When the switch is “on”, it is effectively a short circuit between the terminals (allowing current to flow to the load). You can't just assume those are going to exist in any given location. In the future, don't buy anything or pull the wire until you've figured out the circuit :) That switch is a 3-way switch , as HP discusses.
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Connect two lamps to the same ceiling socket, controlled by two three-way switches Apologies if this is a stupid question, but my google fu is failing me. I have a ceiling socket for a lamp. I want to use it to power two lamps, controlled by the same two three-way switches. How do I achieve that? I thought there'd be some sort of standard 'splitter' box I can connect to the endpoint and then connect the individual lamps to that, but I cannot find anything. Thanks in advance EDIT2 : completely forgot that the light is actually controlled by two switches, not one EDIT : here's the socket, standard EU I believe, brown wire, light blue wire, and earth <Q> You're looking at things from the lamp's perspective. <S> From that perspective, multi-way switching is irrelevant . <S> Just carry it from there to the other lamp, and you're done. <A> Going from fixture to fixture I would get 3 lever locks. <S> 3 contacts on each one. <S> The wires top and bottom left in another lever lock and then the ground in the 3rd now you can connect the ground to the existing fixture and a new cable that runs to the new fixture in the corresponding openings on the 3 (I can’t make out the colors) . <S> With the connections made inside the fixture this would meet the way it is currently connected. <S> If the fixture doesn’t have a enclosure for the wiring a box would be needed on this side of the pond. <A> @harper-reinstate-monica's mention of "lugs" (yes, I'm that clueless) took me to this page which explains the whole thing in simple terms accessible to a total beginner like myself. <S> Leaving it here should anyone get here via a google search https://www.flameport.com/electric/lighting_circuits/lighting_overview.cs4
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On the lugs are the switched-hot and neutral that you need to provide to the other lamp. Connect the wires in the same way the wires top and bottom on the right connect in 2 of the openings of 1 lever lock .
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How can I unscrew the faucet nuts in the tight space behind my sink basin? My bathroom faucet is dripping, and I would like to change the washers in it. The problem I am running into is the placement of the nuts holding the faucet valves in place: This is the underside of the sink, the hot and cold valves are on either side. The nuts holding the valves in are quite large, and they are inside a small recessed space that I can barely fit a small pliers into, much less one large enough to actually get around those nuts. Does anyone have any suggestions for how I might get those nuts off? Update: Always make sure you are asking the right question first, see answer below. Though if anyone is in a similar situation to mine and actually needs to remove a valve, some of the other suggestions here look helpful. <Q> This is exactly the purpose of a basin wrench <S> Here's a picture from familyhandyman.com that shows a basin wrench in action: Note that as mentioned in another answer, you usually don't need to remove the faucet to replace the washers; <S> but if you do need to remove the faucet for whatever reason - this is the tool. <A> Maybe I'm missing something here <S> but why are you trying to take off those nuts? <S> The washers for the valves are topside. <S> You just have to remove the valve stems to expose and change the washers. <S> If you wanted to replace the faucet, then you'd need to get these nuts off. <A> I usually remove both of the supply pipes then make a socket to fit from a suitable sized metal pipe. <S> Even found a copper pipe hammered on was sufficient in some cases. <A> A crowfoot wrench might do it, if you can find one that's the right size to fit those nuts.
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Another option (much more work) is to disconnect the pipes lower down (where they join the hard lines), disconnect the drain, and pull up the whole sink.
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Electric Boiler System won't get warm I moved into a new rented property about 3 weeks ago in the UK. I put on the heat, which is water-filled radiators supplied by an Electric Boiler, a Range Senator 6W, and a medium-sized water cylinder. I have never had this type of system only ever a gas/electric mix so I wasn't really sure how long it should take for the radiators to heat up! It took about an hour and a half to get to kinda hot, like lukewarm. Is this right? The same with any hot water? and the tepid water only seems to last about 4 hours, shouldn't a boiler produce warm water into the pipers relatively quickly? and keep in the tank for a while? I'm having no luck with landlord. They have sent out an electrician who didn't know anything about electrical heating systems. He said he thinks something it wrong as when its turned on the pipes leading from the boiler didn't warm up at all after 10 mins of being on and told me just to turn it off until it could be looked at. I am now waiting for a plumber, so who knows how long that could take? To top it all off, I checked how much my electrical bill was for the first 2 weeks I was in the property. It was over £70! This cannot be right I'm not even warm and was putting it on for less than 1.5 hours a day. Is this normal for this type of system? <Q> If everything was cold to begin with, and the boiler is heating both hot water cylinder and the radiators, it can take several hours before the cylinder is up to temperature. <S> Since the cylinder is a massive heatsink, it holds down the water loop temperature until the water in the cylinder gets up to temperature. <S> Is there a control to select CH/CH+HW/HW? <S> It'll be on a timer box that controls a diverter valve, probably hidden somewhere. <S> If so, set it to HW only, and the tank should warm fully in about 2 hours. <S> These systems should be set up with a thermostat on the HW cylinder that shuts off the diverter valve, which then would shut off the boiler it it were set to HW. <S> You could set it to CH only, the radiators should warm up quickly then. <S> As such, the radiators don't output as much heat as you'd expect. <S> I've never been impressed with these "electric furnaces" or "electric boilers". <S> While they're technically very efficient, they're far more expensive than gas to operate, and usually pretty limited in output - 6kW <S> is about 20,000BTU, and I had a 36,000BTU boiler that struggled to maintain room temperature plus HW in a 2 bedroom single story building. <S> They are unfortunately popular in rental properties, since they're usually pretty reliable, and the owner doesn't see the operating cost. <A> thanks for that <S> I wish I understood it more! <S> I usually only am heating one or the other and either way the radiators take hours to heat, <S> the pipes either side of the boiler don’t even warm up. <S> I’m really hoping there is something wrong <S> otherwise I don’t think I’m gonna be able to live there for long with those costs and not heating or hot water. <A> You really need the landlord/agent to provide instructions for the system as installed. <S> This may be connected to Economy 7 or 10 electricity tariffs, so they only or preferably heat up on cheaper off-peak electricity <S> - you may have to wait until the following day to notice much benefit. <S> If it's connected only to peak rate electricity it'll cost a fortune to run and be comparatively unresponsive.
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If there's no diverter valve, and the HW and radiator loops are run in parallel, you're going to find that the temperature that the radiators get up to is not very warm, as the boiler thermostat will be set to a value that is safe for the hot water - probably 40-50C.
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How should I connect my dimmer switch? I'm trying to change my light switch to a Leviton dimmer switch (4). I checked with a voltage detector pen... Both bottom two wires connected with my old switch has power when switch is off. Does that mean there are 2 hot wires? How do I connect it with the dimmer? The upper wire connected with old switch has no power when switch is off but has power when switch is on. So I assume it is the load wire. I can't find any ground wire connected to old switch, but there is a red wire in the wire box connected with nothing. Should the ground wire to connect with Leviton green wire? <Q> Those two bottom wires are connected internally in the switch, so if one is hot they both would read hot while connected to the switch. <S> One of the wires daisy chains the hot to other outlets. <S> Both of those wires need to be connected with the hot to the dimmer switch. <S> You may need a larger wire connector than one that might have come with the switch. <S> I know this is a DIY advice webpage, but if those two bottom wires are both hot when disconnected from the switch then it isn't a DIY problem. <S> Back some time ago in the previous century it used to be accepted practice to not ground light switches, those days are gone. <S> Some dimmers require a ground to function properly, try folding out the wires in the box to locate bare wires that should be connected together and to the box. <S> If you cant find a ground wire in the box then the ground might be accomplished by a cable assembly or raceway system that grounds the box. <S> If you can identify that one of those systems are used you will need to find a 10-32 green ground screw to put into threaded hole in the back of the box. <S> Also it looks a little like the glue on the tape on the red wire may be failing, you might want to replace the tape or put a correctly sized wire connector on that before you tuck it back into the box. <A> There's no correllation at all between "the wires in the box" and "the wires that you need". <S> The red wire is useless; we don't know what it is, and it won't be used. <S> It needs to be safely capped off and pushed into the back of the box. <S> The type of switch you have uses "screw-and-clamp" terminals, which allow 2 wires per screw. <S> These should be wire-nutted together, with a pigtail to the switch. <S> Note that the new switch has pigtails naturally. <S> The single wire on its own screw is the switched-hot to the lamp. <S> I would mark that wire with blue tape, and also mark the pigtail on the new switch that is for the switched "load" side. <S> Now, hooking up inside the box is as easy as matching colors. <S> On the ground wire, the universal colors for grounds are green, yellow-green, or bare. <S> All grounds must be joined together in the box. <S> Most likely the ground is mandatory here, so you need to find it in the box. <A> Thanks for all your advice. <S> As both of you said, I looked at the wire box again and I found 2 bare wires screwed at the very back of the wire box. <S> So I connected my green wire to it. <S> Now it's time for me to connect all the wires. <S> And it works! <S> Yeah!
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That simply means the screw is also being used as a splice between those two wires.
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Adhesive for PVC-glass in a high temp situation I am making a steam condenser for my chemistry project, as our lab is not equipped with one. The materials I am working with are a 0.5 litre glass jar (was a honey jar) and some plastic pipe I bought from a hardware store (not sure about the material, but it is see through, and labile to heat). My plan is to have 4 holes in the jar's lid : Input/Output for the gas, and another I/O for the cooling water. The steam pipe will be arranged in a spiral on the inside, a small distance apart from the walls. However, I am concerned about the adhesion, as it may come off under the high heat, and may be not be suited for plastic-plastic or glass-plastic-joints. Thus, I am looking for advice on which glue to use for this task. If the temp. goes above 110C, then the ethanol is on fire and giving me bigger problems. Pipe Specs : Vinyl tubing, Inner diameter 7-8mm, Thickness 1mm Jar Specs : Soda glass, Thickness 3-4mm, Outer is 8x8cm square with rounded corners, Height 15cm Adhesives I currently have access to are Glue Gun Sticks, M-seal(Epoxy), Feviquick(not sure if it classifies as hot glue), and Crafting glue(Fevicol). EDIT : I am open to product recommendations, but can only order them from Amazon and such. Note : I realize this may be too much information, but I can't reply back quickly so the more you know. I also realize that this may not be right Stack Exchange site for projects like these, but I wanna talk adhesives and the site says DIY. <Q> I think making a strong, lasting bond between glass and PVC is actually very difficult. <S> With the temperature changes, you need something that will be flexible / elastic enough to tolerate the uneven expansion of PVC and glass. <S> It will have to make a vapor tight seal that holds up under pressure, and stands up to the mechanical stress involved. <S> I think you'll have more luck if you look for a fitting that makes a seal through the lid, with silicone gaskets / <S> o rings you should be able to make a satisfactory lid, but it will be fragile, <S> glass isn't ideal. <S> If you could find something with a lid that isn't glass, everything will get much easier. <A> A common product known as high temperature rtv silicone may serve your requirements. <S> 550°F continuous (almost 300°C) fits into the temperature you've noted. <S> It is a product available via Amazon, but may also be found at automobile parts stores as high temperature gasket sealer. <S> It's often red, although I suspect that's not universal. <S> Your design as described would not be subject to high pressures, much above one atmosphere, and the sealant should not dislodge unless subjected to greater pressures. <A> What type of gas are you condensing? <S> Your question says steam, implying water, but you also mention ethanol. <S> What pressure are the steam and cooling water running at? <S> What's the expected condensate outlet pressure? <S> Is this just for demonstration or will you use the condensate for something? <S> Vinyl tubing also doesn't bond well with adhesives. <S> My first thought is like an old small moonshine still, with an air-cooled coil of copper tubing, soldered together. <S> If you're running large volumes of steam & condensate and need better cooling, immerse the coil in a water bath. <S> Whatever your cooling arrangement, put your condensate and coolant inlets at the top and outlets toward the bottom to use gravity to your advantage for drainage. <S> If you must use vinyl tubing, look at barbed hose fittings and hose clamps. <S> The hose fittings are available in different sizes at most local hardware stores, seal pressure-tight with common hose clamps, and can be found with threaded connections on one side that can be fastened to the flat side or top of a cooling vessel. <S> If that's not practical, JB Weld, JB Qwik, or other metal/epoxy mix may be suitable for the high temp once cured. <S> I once used JB Weld to fix a cast iron cauldron that was then used several times for cooking food on an open fire. <S> IIRC <S> , it was rated at 450 F continuous after it's completely cured. <S> For any adhesive, check the package, search the manufacturer's website for technical info, or even call the manufacturer to ask about use with the particular materials, temperature, pressure, etc. <S> that you're working with.
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Vinyl tubing isn't the best conductor of heat and may leach solvents when it's heated. There may be specialty adhesives available for industrial use that would work, but it will not be easy to find. If you go with copper tubing, I'll recommend soldering as your first joining method.
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Can a leak in a drainage pipe cause an increase in water bill? I am wondering if something like an intermittently clogged shower drain can cause an increase in water usage. The problem might be that the clog in a drain causes waste water from our showers leak into the floor and not the drainage pipe, causing an increase in water bill. What I am really wondering is if water, in its return path to the sewer, is somehow calculated by the water company and used to offset the cost of the water that was pumped in. Does the water company only charge you for the water pumped into your house, with no regard for the water pumped out? <Q> You don't say where you're located, but around here (Massachusetts, and I'm guessing most places are the same), we get billed for both volume of water consumed and volume of sewage emitted. <S> That's because it costs the city money to provide water, and money to dispose of sewage. <S> In fact, costs per volume are often (always?) <S> substantially higher for sewage than water. <S> Measuring volume of sewage is much harder than measuring volume of water, so generally cities will assume some ratio of incoming water to outgoing sewage. <S> For example, 1 cubic foot of water in might imply that 0.95 cubic foot of sewage went out; given evaporation, and people watering plants, this is pretty close to the true value. <S> If you irrigate your lawn a lot (or leak water into your walls), your true outgoing sewage volume will be smaller (sometimes a lot smaller) than the calculated sewer volume. <S> However, since the town can't tell the difference, you'll get billed the (sometimes a lot larger) calculated value. <S> Since per-volume sewage fees are generally larger (e.g. a factor of 4) than water fees, this can really boost your bill (from personal experience this can add up to thousands of dollars). <S> To avoid this, you can get a separate water meter for your irrigation system; water usage through that meter is not presumed to increase your sewage production. <S> But, back to your situation. <S> If indeed water coming into your house leaks inadvertently into the environment, then the town will still bill you as if the water were actually making it back into the sewer. <S> However, assuming you don't change your water use, this won't change your bill; it'll just mean that the town is billing you for "sewage" that is actually damaging your house rather than being treated by the town. <S> TL;DR: don't let water leak into your floor! <A> All the water companies I know of, in the USA, only meter water going into your residence. <S> They assume that the water in will be the water out and that's how the sewer charge is calculated. <S> A common exception is if you fill a swimming pool or have a bad leak they will sometimes not charge for the sewer <S> but you'll still get hit with the water charge. <S> In Florida, the sewer charge is about three times the water charge. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Primer lines are installed in sewerlines to keep the “P-trap” full so smell cannot “leak” back into the house. <S> However, generally p-traps to showers and tub units do not have primers, because they’re used sufficiently to keep the p-trap full. <S> However, if you have a floor drain nearby your shower/tub unit, it likely has a primer that could continue to try to fill the p-trap if it’s broken and leaking. <A> Bottom line direct to your question, a drainage leak is not causing your water bill to increase at all. <S> It might be causing other damage, but that's a separate issue.
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Yes, a wasteline that leaks COULD cause an increase in your water supply line if the wasteline has a “primer”.
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Supporting foam board melts when cutting plywood First time cutting plywood using foam board as support, and it burns, melts, and produces enough smoke that I have to open the garage to ventilate it after every cut. There is no damage to plywood, but burning foam does not support the cut, thus leading to chip out. Here is the example of what it does: The foam board is a major brand pink insulation from a big box shop. That seems to be the kind that I see being recommended for that purpose, but it appears to be a softer foam than the one it should be, the harder styrofoam-like substance (For instance, Kreg talks about rigid foam insulation ). What chemical compounds should I get for this application, and what should I avoid? I use 4600 rpm worm-drive Skilsaw with the track sled attached and thin kerf 40-tooth blade, so it shouldn't be an issue. <Q> Never tried this, honestly don't see a point in doing it this way (expensive material, and <S> yes, foam melts.) <S> OSB, or MDF for two, or hardboard, for another. <S> Hardboard being the generic term for Masonite® which you might or might not know it better as. <S> And I do recall mention of using it for exactly this purpose on difficult materials in some old woodworking text. <S> However, as a rule the combination of the correct (and sharp) blade and the correct depth of cut for that blade (so it's cutting into the surface, not stripping it off - <S> this problem is usually associated with inadequate tooth projection from the cut material - the entire tooth down to the gullet should be sticking out below the sheet) are a more common solution that does not require a bunch of sacrificial backing material. <S> A dull blade will tend to beat the wood more than it cuts it and aggravate this problem. <A> The culprit turned out to be my lack of experience. <S> Previously, I’ve only used the regular, direct-drive circular saw, but had never used a worm-drive saw. <S> When I had installed a new blade, I assumed that branded side of the blade should be visible just as it is on a regular saw. <S> Since the blade on the worm-drive saw is on the left side, but rotation is the same, it should’ve been oriented the same way, so that branding faces inwardly. <S> I've discovered that by trying to figure out why I was having the tearout on the underside of the plywood which shouldn’t have been happening with a circular saw. <S> Only then I have realised that my blade was reversed. <S> It was an idiotic, but honest mistake, I would like to think. <A> A method to prevent tearout that I've had success with was using 1.5 or 2 inch painters tape. <S> Roughly figure out where you want to cut and place the tape over that area. <S> Tape on both sides, pressing it down firmly. <S> You use the wider tape to give you a margin of error. <S> Mark your line and cut. <S> Peel off the tape when finished. <S> A blade with a finer cut (more teeth) should help too.
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Ignoring the option of using a blade that causes less problems, a supporting material that costs less and does not melt would be appropriate.
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Cheap digital thermostat turns off furnace when cold? I woke up this morning and my thermostat which looks like a pocket calculator was just turned along with my furnace. I pressed both buttons and it turned back on, but my house was freezing cold. When it turned back on all of the segments on the display lit up first, and after that it worked as expected. When I lived in places before I always had analog thermostats and never had them flake out like this one; the time wasn’t even set when it came back of because apparently it doesn’t keep the time; maybe the power went out and caused this, but I’m ultimately I don’t have any evidence of this. Has anyone had experience with a thermostat like this, do I just need to buy a new one? Update Here is the back of it: Here is inside the wall plate where two wires come in: Anyway, I guess it turns on and off when bumped because the batteries aren’t held in place terribly well. Also, to your point there isn’t much connecting it to the furnace, just two wires from plugged into a MOFSET that the thermostat plugs into via pins. <Q> 99% sure this will be a thermostat that needs batteries. <S> A fairly common approach to getting "smart" features without changing from old two-wire (heat only) mechanical thermostat wiring. <S> I've lived with several variants - the batteries and method to get to the batteries can be less than obvious, depending on the design. <S> Generally plan on replacing them once a year rather than waiting for them to leave the house cold. <S> As a new homeowner, if you have not had your heating system professionally serviced annually, you might schedule a service call (for the heating system maintenance, not just for getting into the thermostat) and have the service person show you how to get to the batteries, as they will probably have a good idea how to get to them without breaking the thermostat (not uncommon to have to pull it off the wall to get to the batteries, but HOW you pull it off the wall without breaking it is not always evident.) <S> Otherwise, figure out what brand and model thermostat you have and look up the manual on the internet. <A> That thermostat takes 2 AAA batteries. <S> There is a plastic plate mounted to the wall and the thermostat can be removed from the plate by pulling up at the two bottom corners. <S> To re-install place the top of the thermostat on the plate first then push the two bottom corners in. <S> Upper left corner is a "Set" button. <S> Push it and you can set the current time and day of the week using the arrows on the right. <S> Continue pushing and you can go through four different cycles for Mon-Fri and for Sat-Sun. <S> The cycles are Wake, Leave, Return and Sleep. <S> When you push Set you'll see the cycle flash and either the time or temp flash. <S> Use the arrows on the right to move the time ahead or back and the temp warmer or cooler for the cycle you want to set. <S> Whichever one is flashing is the one you will be adjusting. <S> Just hitting the arrows will adjust the temperature temporarily until the next cycle occurs. <S> If you hit hold it will hold that temperature permanently. <S> If you find that you need a new thermostat see if there are any rebates from the utility company for buying a programmable thermostat. <S> I received a rebate when I bought my thermostat and if I recall it almost covered the cost of the thermostat. <A> Some digital thermostats present only an up and down button. <S> They have a display with a bunch of meaningless garf, and a big 2-digit display showing temp. <S> However, if you open up a little door, there are many more buttons. <S> These are for programming. <S> It is a programmible thermostat . <S> At programmed times, it will reset to the programmed temp. <S> This can be overridden by the buttons, however at the next progam time, it will again set to the program temp. <S> The reason I think it's programmable is that it's digital. <S> Almost all digital thermostats that look like pocket calculators are programmable. <S> It doesn't save much money making them non-programmable.
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If new batteries don't solve it, then it probably is new thermostat time (had that happen with one of them after 20 odd years of trouble-free service...)
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Can I replace my range cord with one having larger conductors? I want to move my 40A range. The cable is 2-8 + 2-10 on a 40A circuit with a 40A breaker. Problem is the 4ft cord is too short. Can I replace the cord with a 50A one (2-6/2-8 10ft)? <Q> You can use a 50A rated cord for a 40A appliance with a 50A receptacle on a 40A circuit. <S> Pay special attention to NEC 210.50(C) <S> Appliance Receptacle Outlets. <S> Appliance Receptacle Outlets...shall be installed within 1.8m (6 ft) of the intended location of the appliance. <S> You will probably need to install a permanent breaker lock out device in your electrical panel to comply with NEC 422.30/422.33 that allows a receptacle accessible through the drawer to satisfy the required disconnecting means. <S> Also check with the Installation Instructions of the range to see if it specifies receptacle location or cord length. <S> Lab Listing (UL,CSA) is only valid when installed or used as instructed in the Installation Instructions. <S> You may need to and it would be cleaner to change the existing receptacle to a junction box and extend the circuit to the oven location. <A> Yes, you're always allowed to use larger wires - no harm there. <S> However, 8/8/10/10 is perfectly adequate for a 40A range. <S> 8 AWG is legal to 40A@60C and 50A@75C. <S> The neutral only has the oven light and clock, so #10 is wild overkill. <S> #10 grounds are legal up to 60A circuits. <A> You can replace the cable to your oven with a larger one <S> but you cannot increase the breaker size. <S> You might have to change that too. <S> Check with some additional stores, maybe even an electrical supply store, to see if you can get a longer 40AMP cable, and the shorter, the better.
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Check to make sure your new cable plug will fit into your existing outlet.
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Cast iron pipe is too low to a use gasketed toilet flange replacement While removing the toilet the The previous flange came off with it. We suspect that is what was causing a leaking issue on the ceiling below. So we went to replace it with an extender flange but the 4 inch extender flange is not getting a tight seal on the cast iron pipe. What are my options? <Q> It sounds like you can get at the pipe from below. <S> I would highly suggest cutting some of the cast iron away and using a rubber gasket coupling (i.e. a Fernco) to transition to PVC. <A> Open the Floor from rafter to rafter(circular saw). <S> That gives you access to the area you are working on. <S> Later you cover that area with a piece of plywood of the same thickness and support the piece with the existing rafters and some sistered in 2x4's. <S> I bet the old cast iron is laying on the ceiling below and that's why you don't get a tight seal. <S> Support and lift the cast iron a bit up that you get the right heights. <S> That will give you the seal. <S> The key is that you really see what you are dealing with. <S> Good luck. <A> They have toilet flanges that are longer then the one in your photo. <S> Yours looks like four inches. <S> The one pictured below is 6 inches long and might be long enough to solve your problem. <S> You'll probably need to go to a plumbing supply store to get one. <S> Good luck. <A> That style of PVC flange will not provide a good seal to the cast iron hub below. <S> Originally, the flange would have been cast iron and was connected to the soil pipe using a combination of lead and oakum, which is a hemp fiber. <S> The oakum would be packed in around the fitting, and lead solder would get ladled over the top to make it water proof. <S> The purpose of the oakum was to prevent the solder from falling through the gap in the pipe before it solidified. <S> The original flange must have been removed as part of a bathroom remodel at some point. <S> Using lead and oakum is still used occasionally, but many installers have switched over to hubless fittings, which are connected by a type of coupling known by the brand name Fernco. <S> To install the new one, use a reciprocating saw to cut the bell off the end of the cast iron pipe and use a piece of PVC pipe the same diameter to extend it to the proper length. <S> Once that part is done, you can then install a standard toilet flange, and it should not ever leak again.
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Then you can put a regular PVC pipe flange up there and avoid the problem of depth entirely.
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Does Rosemary repel mosquitoes from home? Setting out the mosquito repellent plants in your home is the best option to keep mosquitos away. Plants not only avoid mosquitoes away but also provide you fresh air to breathe. <Q> Here is a published source, USA Today, that has published an article discussing rosemary as well as other plants that repel mosquitoes. <S> USA Today Article <S> I'm not making any claims as to the effectiveness of any of these, so take this for what it's worth. <S> My guess is that these can't hurt and would make a nice garden. <S> To quote what they say about rosemary: Rosemary. <S> Though you'll want to plant an herb garden for cooking, rosemary repels flies and mosquitoes. <S> It also has a pungent scent that drives away other bugs, including cabbage moths. <S> It does well in hot dry weather, and thrives in containers, so you can set it in various places around the garden. <A> The statements made in the body are unsupported. <S> In particular, plants are almost exactly oxygen-neutral (vs CO2), despite what you were incorrectly told in grade school. <S> Mosquitos don't care in the least what plants are around. <S> They go after regions with higher than average CO2 content on the assumption that a tasty meal is exhaling there. <A> Rosemary plant is an aromatic and distinctive herb with a sweet, and resinous flavor. <S> Their woody aroma is exactly what keeps the mosquitoes, cabbage moths and carrot flies, away from your house. <S> Rosemary plant prefers warm and dry temperatures. <S> These plants can be trimmed in any shape and size and can be used for decoration purposes. <S> Rosemary is a perennial plant that lives more than 2 years. <S> According to the research, it is found that the crude ethanolic rosemary extract slowed the spread of human leukemia and breast carcinoma cells.
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To keep mosquitos out of your home, use screens.
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How to use a side by side refrigerator in a cold garage? During the summer months, the fridge in my not insulated garage works fine, and has for some time. During the cold winter months (below freezing) the KitchenAid KSRS25Q (old) side by side fridge won't cycle the compressor, unless I position space heaters around it (energy inefficient). Even then, on the coldest days (Indiana can get cold), the freezer internal temperature will still go higher than 10F/-10C. Looking for solutions, I hear of something called a 'garage kit'. Seems straightforward. You add a heater inside so that the compressor continues to work even when the ambient temperature is lower than the fridge interior. Problem is, I have only found garage kits for top freezer models. It seems that, somehow, there is a difference between those and side by side models, and the 'garage kits' kits wouldn't work in my side by side model. Is the problem just that I can't find the answer, that no such answer exists, or that the answer is so simple that no kit is really necessary? In other words, what can I do for a 'garage kit' for a side by side refrigerator? <Q> There are refrigerators & freezers designed for outdoor use . <S> One semi-random example : <S> The basic problem is that ordinary residential refrigerators & freezers are designed for indoor temperatures. <S> From a GE side-by-side installation manual : <S> REFRIGERATOR LOCATION <S> * Do not install the refrigerator where the temperature will go below 60 F (16 C) because it will not run often enough to maintain proper temperatures. <S> * Do not install the refrigerator where the temperature will go above 100 F (37 C) because it will not perform properly. <S> For better or worse, I believe some of this goes hand-in-hand with energy efficiency. <S> EPA EnergyStar and similar regulations (and common sense "save energy" mentality) have resulted in refrigerators/freezers that are "just right". <S> They have a lot of insulation to keep the cold in and relatively low-power compressors, based on the assumption that they will not have to cool "too much" and that keeping the cool is good enough a lot of the time. <S> So they aren't powerful enough to get things cold if it is 100 F. <S> And the flip side is that, especially with side-by-side , a certain amount of run-time is needed to keep optimal freezer & refrigerator temperatures as they are dependent on each other - they are one unit, not two. <S> So if the temperature is cold enough that the refrigerator doesn't need to run, the freezer doesn't run either - and gets too warm. <S> Alternatively, if it gets so cold that the freezer doesn't need to run, the refrigerator will be cold but won't get internal air circulation and parts will get too cold. <S> Best answer <A> It's sort of like making a heat pump work when it's too cold. <S> You need to make an enclosure of some kind for the bulk of the machine, that is highly insulated. <S> Then, heat the space. <S> The nice thing is, by and large, you get the heat back . <S> Once the refrigerator is operating, the waste heat of the refrigerator will help heat the space, and make the space heater need infrequent. <S> Since it sounds like you have supervisory thermal data anyway , have that also warn you when the enclosed refrigerator space exceeds about 80 F. <S> It's time to remove the covers and for it to cool normally. <A> I have a Kenmore side by side circa 1997 <S> or so in my garage. <S> I put it in the garage when I got a new one for the house. <S> I then found out it didn't work properly because it's not designed to work below an ambient temperature of 60 degrees F. Sheesh! <S> My garage is insulated and in the winter maintains a temp of around 50 degrees. <S> I live in the mountains in a cold climate. <S> I have found somewhat of a solution: <S> I crack open the refrigerator door about 1/4 inch. <S> The refer side heats up a bit and kicks the compressor on and the freezer drops and holds at about 20 degrees and the refer side holds at about 38 degrees. <S> I am not sure how much electricity I am using but it doesn't run that much. <S> In the Spring when its 60 in the garage I'll close the door and adjust the thermostat accordingly. <S> I would be interested in feedback from somebody that knows about refers.
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I know of is: Put the spare refrigerator or freezer in your basement (if you have one) or in an area (e.g., mudroom or similar) between the garage and the house so that it gets at least some climate control.
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What kind of electrical connector is this and how do I remove it? I am replacing a bathroom ceiling light fixture. The house is pretty old and has cloth covered wire. The fixture I'm replacing is relatively updated but when I went to remove it, I noticed it was connected to the wires out of the ceiling using some kind of wire joining implement that I've never seen before. I lightly tugged on one the old black fixture wire and it came right out of this connecting device. The white wire won't budge. Since it was for the old fixture I'm replacing, I cut it. What is this connector and is there some kind of release button/switch on it that I need to press to disengage the wires? Pictures are below. <Q> It's a push-in connector . <S> Basically the splice version of a "backstab" . <S> Not the best connector, to be sure. <S> Do not cut. <S> Firmly grasp the splice connector <S> , then steadily tug and twist <S> the -- -- <S> Actually, forget that. <S> The wires in the ceiling are already too old, short and fragile. <S> Leave the connector alone and cut the modern, plastic black and white wires about 6" from the connector. <S> If you dislike this plan because you plan to reuse the old lamp, then cut it at the halfway point. <S> Strip the ends of those wires you just cut, and wire-nut your new fixture to that. <S> Also these types of connector are single-use, so once you drag a wire out of a void, you have damaged the spring and can't use it again. <S> This is also true even if you use a proper release mechanism. <S> I would say "just cut" because it leaves the wire stub in the hole, preventing reuse; but wire length is precious and not to be squandered <S> , that's why you have a short-wire problem today. <S> Note that the above part of my answer violates Code. <S> The Code answer is the wires in the ceiling are simply too short. <S> Loosen the cable clamp and see if you can pull extra cable length in. <S> If not, replace the entire cable in the ceiling/wall. <S> It must have 6" of length beyond the cable clamp, and 3" beyond the ceiling surface. <A> That is a push-in connector, it has a one-way spring inside that holds the wire. <S> I think it's a Gardner Bender Pushguard . <S> Ideal makes In-Sure connectors that are similar, Wago makes similar connectors, and <S> I am sure there are other brands. <S> This will work it out in a few seconds, the wire kind of "unscrews" from the connector. <S> Caution: <S> Be very gentle with that old wire, that insulation may be prone to crumble. <S> If it falls apart, you'll have a much bigger problem to deal with. <A> Fortunately the housing is clear so you can see the workings inside. <S> It contains a springy "tooth" that grabs any wire pushed alongside it. <S> There should be a small slot or round hole nearby for a small pointed tool to release the tooth while you tug on the wire. <S> It works much like the quick-connects on the back of receptacles and switches. <S> Normally they are designed for a certain range of wire gauge. <S> I guess I should type my answer more quickly, to not attract copy-cats. <A> (can't comment and this falls out of the scope for edits to, in this case, @Harper - Reinstate Monica's answer, thus ...) <S> but if it were a WAGO connector <S> you most likely could reuse it <S> (search for reusable) <S> So the general statement Also these types of connector are single-use <S> is just false. <S> This is stated more clearly on a German Wago page: <S> " Tip: Reuse WAGO box terminals " (and a picture shows how to remove wires) <S> Disclaimer: I haven no connection to Wago except for being an occasional customer (and fan).
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To get the wires out one at a time, hold the wire in place, steady light pull on the connector, and twist the connector back and forth. As already stated by other this is a push-in type connector and/
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How to fix smashed wires in washing machine? I believe the motor capacitor with its bracket fell down and pinched two wires going to the motor. I spliced them back with two blue wire nuts. The motor works again. However, this made me thinking, can I leave this as permanent solution or is there disaster going to happen if wire nuts come off (there were 2 14 or 16 awg wires that were rejoined)? Should I get Wago connectors instead? Solder? Crimp? Or change the whole harness? What's the best practice? <Q> The wire nuts will be fine. <S> I do not like push in wago connectors but love lever locks. <S> In high vibration equipment sometimes I will lock the wire nuts with some electrical tape but if properly installed with 2 twists of the wire I have not had them come loose , I just like the idea that the tape water proofs the connection. <A> If you connected the right wires together and followed the directions on the wire nut package then you're good to go. <S> They are as good as the spade connectors as far as connecting wires. <S> That's why grounding is so darn important. <A> Make very sure that the wire insulation in other places has not been beaten thin, beaten hard, stretched thin, or cracked - such defects could, especially in a vibration-rich environment, lead to delayed insulation failure.
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If a wire nuts did come off, which would be no different than a wire coming off the capacitor, and come in contact with the frame, it would trip the breaker because the machine is grounded (should be).
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What’s the best way to connect my 3/4” gas line to my 3/8” grill hose? I just had a natural gas line installed in the outside wall of my house. It has a valve and a female 3/4” connector. My natural gas grill has a hose with a 3/8” connector. How can I best connect these? I saw silver male-to-male fittings going from 3/4” to 1/2”. Big box stores didn’t have 3/4 to 3/8. Is there such a thing? An old guy at the store told me a need a bunch of black iron pipes strung together to achieve the reduction but couldn’t explain why. He seemed dubious about a simple double threaded connector. I’d rather not have 7” of lead pipe sticking straight out of the wall if I can avoid it. My intent is to only have the gas on when using the grill and turn off the supply valve when the grill is not in use (ie most of the time) Thoughts? Here's the 3/4" connector (gas line) from the house w/valve: Here's the threaded 3/8" connector for the hose on the grill: Just found this from a company selling brewer's supplies: The thread sizes match what I need but... Does that mean it's OK to use for natural gas??? Doesn't mention what it's made from. My existing connectors both seem to be brass. <Q> I had the exact same size gas pipe connector and hose connector. <S> I ended up using one adapter. <S> I located it on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E5CIMQ <A> My specialty store carry’s both the hard line adapters for pipe 1-1/4” down to 1/2” for the flex lines, I was picking up a fitting just a few weeks ago for my son in law <S> he said they did not have them <S> but he went to the big box store and was ready to use several nipples and reducing adapters <S> , I picked up the correct one for less than he paid for the mess he had cobbled together. <S> You may be able to find it on line also. <S> I think it was a 3/4” female pipe to male 3/8” flare fitting. <S> Note <S> you should have a gas rated shutoff valve at this connection and there are 3/4 to 1/2” ball valves out there <A> What brand is the grill? <S> Weber, for example, manufactures (or has someone else manufacture) <S> a kit that includes all the necessary connectors for hooking the gas grill to a domestic line. <S> (And if the grill's manufactured by Weber, my first-hand experience is that they do, since I've already had that conversation with them.) <S> Surely you can find the appropriately-sized fittings at a specialty store and cobble together your own connection. <S> And assuming you use the right tools and materials (e.g. gas-rated thread tape, etc.) there's probably nothing wrong with that. <S> But IMHO it'd be better to just get whatever the grill manufacturer provides, assuming they do. <A> If your gas grill connection is really a 3/8 female NPT sized... <S> Then what you need are two pieces. <S> A 3/4" x 3/8" NPT black steel bushing, and a short 3/8" black steel nipple. <S> ( short pipe with male threads on both ends. ) <S> You can get a really short nipple and barely add any length to the output. <S> However, that complicates the install since you won't be able to get a wrench directly on the nipple. <S> I suggest a 3" nipple. <S> It will add about 1.5 inches to the overall length with the bushing. <S> For something this close to valves, I wouldn't bother with tape, just use the correct pipe dope (sealant) for gas pipes. <S> I recently fell in love with sealant in small tubes ! <S> No brush, no mess. <S> Leak test with soap once you are done.
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Your first stop should be to contact the grill manufacturer, explain what you want to do, and see if they can provide such a kit. This is where big box stores don’t help but plumbing and electrical specialty stores May have the correct fitting and the gas rated tape or dope.
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Have a weird light switch issue happening Trying to set up a new pantry light. I want to tie this into the outlet that is controlled in the switch in the pantry. However when I rigged it like in this image it's all reversed. When I turn the switch off the light goes on and when the switch is on the outlet goes off. I tried switching the white and black and that did nothing. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Attached is what I'm trying to do. The dotted lines is the new light that is going in. <Q> First off, turn off the breaker and leave it off until you can get this fixed, or have an electrician fix it. <S> Dangerous wiring error there. <S> Look at this diagram: I suspect you tripped the breaker, possibly more than once, when closing the switch wired wrong. <S> If that's the case, you should have an electrician replace that breaker. <A> Assuming for the moment that the wires you show as red are actually white , and that everything was wired up "basically normal" originally, the original configuration was probably something like: <S> Panel -> Hot black -> <S> white hot -> switch (not actually connected to receptacle but cables connected in receptacle box) <S> Switch -> <S> Black switched hot -> receptacle - <S> > <S> white neutral - <S> > <S> Panel <S> Then you added a light bulb bridging the hot and switched hot . <S> That resulted in: <S> Switch off: <S> Panel -> Hot black - <S> > <S> white hot -> light bulb <S> Light bulb - <S> > Black switched hot -> receptacle - <S> > <S> white neutral -> Panel which would make: <S> Light bulb <S> ON Receptacle power lower voltage <S> due to voltage drop across the light bulb <S> so things plugged into the receptacle may not work quite right . <S> Switch on: <S> Essentially light bulb bypassed because of the much lower resistance path through the switch. <S> Which would make: Light bulb <S> OFF Receptacle operate normally <S> The end result is you need switched <S> hot and neutral at both the light and the receptacle. <S> You currently have switched <S> hot at both but neutral only at the receptacle. <S> New code requires neutral to the switch which would mean neutral would be routed along with hot & switched hot everywhere, but that doesn't help you here. <S> Fixing this will likely involve running a new cable. <S> You can't run two cables parallel as part of the same circuit, so that means replacing the 2 wires between the receptacle and the light bulb with 3 wires. <S> Once you do that, you really should go all the way to the switch. <S> And once you do that, you should make switched hot be red and hot black . <S> End result: <S> Panel -> <S> Hot black -> <S> hot black (new) (bypasses light bulb) - <S> > <S> switch (not actually connected to receptacle but cables connected in receptacle box) <S> Panel -> <S> Neutral white - <S> > <S> receptacle -> <S> neutral white (new) -> <S> light bulb -> <S> neutral white -> <S> switch (not actually connected to switch, just capped in the box) <S> Switch -> <S> Red switched hot -> <S> light bulb - <S> > <S> red switched hot -> receptacle <A> As you have discovered, you can’t just put the new light in parallel with the switch. <S> The way you did this, when the switch is on, the light is shorted out and off. <S> When the switch in on, you end up with the light in series with the outlet and, if you use a low wattage light, like an LED, the light will leak power through what you plugged in and will light. <S> The first thing to check is if you have a neutral wire or wires in the box with the switch. <S> If you do, connect the light between the neutral and the switched side of the switch. <S> (Connect to one side of the switch. <S> If the light is not switched, switch it to the other side.) <S> You’ll have to instead connect to the outlet box. <S> Connect the light in parallel with the outlet. <S> Connect black to black (or red) and white to white <S> (don’t forget the ground). <S> I’ve ignored details about how to connect things like pigtailing wirenuts. <S> If you aren’t comfortable with this, get someone to help you. <A> You've bodged it up at the receptacle, and it's a good thing you did, because the way the wires to the lamp meet the wires to the switch would have blown the circuit breaker otherwise. <S> Right now, the switch and lamp are parallel. <S> However, in the receptacle socket, they are in series. <S> You didn't draw that part. <S> They need to be the other way around. <S> Right now, fix the switch so it's in series instead of parallel with the lamp. <S> Remove the solid red line between the two dotted lines. <S> That means you'll be joining the dotted black line to the solid red.
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If the is no neutral with the switch, sorry, you cannot connect your light here. Remove the dotted black line between the two solid lines.
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How to overwinter a roof during construction? I am building a new detached garage, and the forecast this weekend is just warm enough that I plan to get my trusses and roof sheathing up. My sheathing is 5/8" plywood ( not OSB). It's a single car garage, 12' by 20'. However, the weather won't be above 40F / 4C until the spring, so I won't be able to shingle for some time. How should I protect the bare roof sheathing to best survive the winter? I am in Wisconsin, USA, so expecting lots of wind, snow, and frigid cold. These are the options I am thinking of - are there better alternatives? Install tar paper underlayment and ice dam only Install underlayment / ice dam and spread a tarp or plastic over the whole thing Tarp over the bare sheathing <Q> If anything just a tarp over the sheathing. <S> The snow and wind will ruin the tarpaper. <S> I have had A outbuilding sit through the winter after getting started and having to have knee replacement surgery, in fact it sat for well over 6 months with nothing covering it and was fine once roofed, I did allow a week of warm dry weather prior to roofing to allow the wood to dry out that was 2 years ago <S> and it is fine. <S> I would have preferred to have a tarp but the way things happened there was no chance to get back up there but is fine today. <A> How big is the garage? <S> Plywood will do pretty good if you keep the majority of it dry. <S> The ice and water should do okay if you can get it to stick. <S> Normally heat does the trick. <A> With the snow and wind in Wisconsin (for one month last year, Eau Claire not only had a record amount of snow, but the new record was twice what the old record was) <S> I would do as both Ed and Nic suggest. <S> In other words, I would do the ice and guard, and the heavy felt along with a well secured tarp. <S> If time is a problem, do the tarp at the very least. <S> I would not leave it bare. <A> The plywood might not hold up too bad if you do nothing. <S> I am not sure whether it's wise to paint the plywood, but they do make paint that you can apply in cold weather (35*F). <S> I wouldn't rule out installing shingles in cold weather. <S> It's done quite a bit around here. <S> I would check with the shingle manufacturer and get one that allows for cold weather installation. <S> Just an example, here's one . <S> A 12 x 20 garage is a nice manageable size job. <S> I think the brittleness of the shingles is the big thing. <S> Maybe if you stored them indoors in climate controlled environment for a few days so they get nice and warm. <S> Then put a torpedo heater in the garage and keep them in there, this will also keep the roof a little warmer. <S> Then bring up the bundles maybe a couple at a time, a bit of trouble <S> but hopefully you can get them in before they get cold and brittle. <S> Likewise keep the adhesive warm. <S> Use a nail gun and set it so you're using the lowest pressure that will sink the nails.
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In my opinion I would try to get drip edge on then the ice and water shield with staples in the top part that gets overlapped and then a heavier felt than normal or double felt with ample cap staples so the wind won't rip it off. I would think your biggest problem will be the wind and moisture.
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Can an outlet for a dishwasher be located below the floor? I am not a handy person, so I had family members install a new dishwasher. When they finished, I noticed that this was how the electrical was installed. The dishwasher was plugged into a new outlet installed in the garage level below it. The plug runs through a hole in the kitchen subfloor behind the dishwasher and into the garage. I assume this is not to code, but I figured I'd ask. I want to make sure it's done right. If not acceptable, is the solution to bring the outlet to beneath the sink next to the dishwasher and do it that way? Thanks in advance. <Q> 400.8 <S> Uses Not Permitted. <S> Unless specifically permitted in 400.7, flexible cords and cables shall not be used for the following: ... <S> (2) Where run through holes in walls, structural ceilings, suspended ceilings, dropped ceilings, or floors Running the cord inside the cabinetry does not break this rule. <S> Contrary to other answers, in my opinion, the cord and plug connection for the dishwasher is perfectly fine and makes it easy to disconnect power. <A> Switch to Hardwired Connection Dishwashers <S> can be cord/plug connected. <S> But more typical is hardwired because typically they only need to be worked on once in a very long while and even more rarely get moved. <S> Assuming you require the GFCI protection: <S> Remove the cord from the dishwasher. <S> You can't hardwire using a regular cord. <S> Connect one end of a 12/2 NM cable to the dishwasher. <S> All connections should be inside the junction box on the dishwasher. <S> Connect the black & white wires of the other end of the 12/2 to the LOAD side of the GFCI receptacle. <S> All grounds go together. <S> Test first by plugging a lamp or other small appliance into the receptacle. <S> If it does not work (and TEST/RESET doesn't fix it) then disconnect the dishwasher wires from the LOAD screws to troubleshoot. <A> 2017 <S> NEC 422.16(B)(2) <S> Allows a cord identified as suitable, and 422.16 <S> (B)(2)(6) says " The receptacle for a built-in dishwasher shall be located in the space adjacent to the space occupied by the dishwasher ". <S> 210.8(D) Requires GFCI protection for a dishwasher. <S> That's an interpretation. <S> 422.31(B) <S> Hardwired would require a permanently mounted breaker lock-off device in the electrical panel, and that may interfere with the GFCI button on the breaker. <S> Exposed NM cable in a cabinet or under the dishwasher could easily be interpreted as being subject to physical damage. <S> So personally I would change the box below the floor to a metal box, extend 1/2" flex or MC Cable through the floor to the appropriate cabinet, and install a GFCI receptacle there. <A> In addition to other peoples comments about whether its electricaly acceptable to terminate the dishwasher connection like this, if if the entry from the garage to the house is sealed for air intrusion. <S> In many jurisdictions there are requirements to properly seal any places where air could move from the garage into the house. <S> The primary concern for is to prevent carbon monoxide from engine exhaust from getting drafted into the house. <S> The picture here indicates a back cable running up through the floor, but it's difficult to tell if it's the same cable as the dishwasher plug or not.
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You are correct, the issue here is the cord and plug for the dishwasher running through the floor. If you installed that from the garage then I would consider it quite possibly not readily accessible. If you convert to a junction box you would need to install a GFCI breaker or feed from load terminals of a GFCI receptacle.
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Why is part of my home electric going out? At times my thermostat in another room, oven, clothes washer, dishwasher, and two outlets in the kitchen go out for no apparent reason. The breakers don't trip. The GFI receptacle doesnt trip. We have a coffee pot plugged into one outlet, and humidifier plugged into the other. An electrician was out when the power came back on and could not figure out why the power goes out. He said he would have to see it when the power was out. Could the problem be a result of a daisy chain? One half of the receptacle do not work right. How do I fix it if that is the problem? <Q> With both 240 and 120v devices having a problem I would first call the power company and report the problem to them. <S> Usually they will preform a service safety inspection for free (they don’t want a fire in their gear).Then <S> I would check the type of panel there 2 brands known to have these problems <S> the first is federal pacific (FPE) <S> the stablock model of breaker is known to fail (to the point I will only remove them). <S> The other is zinsco , I haven’t seen the extent of problem on these but others have reported. <S> If neither of these brands one thing I will do is turn all the small breakers off, then cycle the main breaker on and off 10-20 times. <S> This cycling the main breaker can clean carbon off the hammers in the breakers and reseat them For a temporary fix. <S> If you feel comfortable remove the dead face or front cover from the panel and look at the main feeds looking for overheating damage <S> (I would expect your electrician at least did this). <A> A circuit is defined as a circuit breaker (often a double breaker with tied handles) and all the outlets and hardwired devices that it controls , i.e. that lose power if you switch it off. <S> Obviously, some circuits are failing, and whole circuits are failing at the same time (that is, all the outlets/devices on the circuit at once). <S> So I need you to identify the failing ones. <S> Often if your panel is properly labeled as required by law, this won't be too hard. <S> Cut up some Post <S> -It notes to make flags, and stick the flags on the breakers that are failing. <S> Then, shoot us a photo of the panel face. <S> Also if possible the label that describes the make/model/instructions of the panel, and the breaker labeling chart if any. <S> Do this before you call in an electrician. <S> This may be free to fix. <S> What I want to see is if all the failing breakers fall into a pattern that looks For most panels, every other row, like in this answer All on the left side or all on the right side for Pushmatic. <S> On a Zinsco, could be anything, so, not helpful. <S> If it does follow this pattern, then this is almost certainly a power outage from the power company. <S> This is what power outages look like. <S> "Why doesn't the power fail completely? <S> Because in North America, power is delivered as 3 wires. <S> Typically 1 wire fails. <S> 2/3 chance it knocks out half your panel. <S> 1/3 chance it causes a floating neutral which makes your voltages go bananas. <A> Did the Utility actually open your meter and check the connections? <S> A thing that has been happening a lot lately is that when they come out and plug in the new "smart" meters, the act of unplugging the old electro-mechanical meter and plugging in the new one exposes some previously minor corrosion or spring tension weaknesses that then become worse with the new meter. <S> I've seen it 3 times in the last year. <S> The symptoms leading up to the discoveries were exactly as you described in all 3 cases. <A> Everything you are describing points toward a bad 120v leg on your 240v single phase service. <S> Most likely up at the pole, mast, or at the service panel. <S> Either way you will need to call your utility company to come check it for you and visually inspect all those connections and perhaps do a load test. <S> this is why NONE of the 240v circuits work... because none of them are getting both legs of power.
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If every 240v device goes out but some 120v circuits still work then its almost always a bad connection at the service or pole on one leg of power. Providing us with a photo of the panel and model number we may come up with additional possibilities if the utility comes up with nothing, but most of these failures I have seen have been on the utility side other than a few main breaker problems or rule of 6 “main” for the lower section.
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Weatherstripping for inswing exterior door with clearance problems. Clearance door sweep? How would you weatherstrip this gap under an inswing exterior door? The door threshold is not very high, and the door already drags a bit on the interior carpet, so many styles of door threshold are out. The gap ranges from 1/4" to 1/2", and is curved over the threshold width. Light is clearly visible under the gap. A bottom threshold is possible, but Pemko #250V for example is way too high to fit (and as an extruded part wicks cold right from the outside to the inside, defeating the purpose somewhat). What are options here? <Q> I've used mounted door sweeps for this before and it seemed to work well. <A> You would need to order one of these 3 choices but Pemko makes saddle thresholds that will raise the height from 1/4" to 1/2", depending which one you may go for. <S> I checked their catalog online and the numbers are 151, 170 or 166. <S> This would give you a durable surface that would not wear out, but you will need to cut the door bottom, reseal it and add the sweep to the door leaf. <S> If the original sill has a crown, the added threshold can be carefully shimmed flat so a new sweep will seal better. <S> There are "door shoes" in the catalog to aid in the sealing, but those are available at the local hardware store too. <A> My inclination is to install something on the threshold and, depending on the thickness you can find, you may have to trim the bottom of the door slightly. <S> You could try an under door threshold kit like this one but turn it over and screw it down to the threshold instead of the bottom of the door. <S> OR if the gap is not to big, try a bumper threshold like this one .
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Another alternative is to cut the door bottom off for clearance, rout a groove in the bottom of the door and set a drop threshold, but those are rather particular to set and get to work good.
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Is it better to splice outlets into a run, or to run a branch? I have an electrical line running through the joists of a basement storage room. It runs near an area where I’d like to put a couple of 2-gang outlets, but not immediately past. I was thinking about rerouting the line to go past where I want the outlets, and splicing them into the line. Is it better to splice in a junction box and run a branch off the existing line to the two new outlets, or would splicing the outlets into the existing run be better? I’m starting to think the former would be better, since it lets me run whatever length of wires I need and I don’t have to worry about whatever’s downstream of the new outlets, but I figured I ask people more knowledgeable than I. <Q> and the splices or devices are properly terminated. <S> In your situation, one thing I might do is, since I need a box there anyway, actually have an extra outlet in the ceiling (but I am 6’5”). <S> Use the same or larger wire size and there is no difference. <A> Either one is permitted <S> There is nothing special about running outlets in a string. <S> The physical topology of wiring must be in a "tree" format, but branches are fine. <S> The best method is the one that provides the shortest route for most current. <A> Can you cut the wire in the middle <S> so there is enough length to reach each outlet location desired and then run a new wire between the outlets to connect it all together? <S> Thats how I would do it if this was possible since cutting wire and installing one junction box to splice off <S> it is nearly always impossible without enough wire length to make proper connections inside of a jbox. <A> I would re-route as necessary. <S> For one thing, I like having receptacles exactly where I want them. <S> It's neater and maybe even safer to have less cord hanging / lying around. <S> The other thing, you usually can't just cut the cable, put the ends in a box, and pigtail on a receptacle. <S> That doesn't give you near enough wire in the box to work with.
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That said, there is no real difference as long as the wires are well anchored, the boxes are accessible. I tend to make splices in places that makes the best use of the wire and the least number of “junction only” boxes.
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Adding an outlet above this metal box I'm trying to install a new outlet about 3 feet above an existing outlet (for a wall-mounted TV). It appears that the existing outlet is in the middle of the run, so I'm not sure how I would add the existing outlet. Can I connect the new outlet to what I believe is the plastic push connector? (There appears to be room for one more set of wires.) Or can I wire the new outlet directly to the existing outlet? I've included a photo of the existing outlet below. <Q> Electrically, you can go either way <S> Attaching to the push connector or attaching to the backstabs or screws is 3 of one, half dozen of the other. <S> I mean, backstabs (and push connectors) are known to be unreliable, so you take your chances of having an hours-long, frustrating bug hunt. <S> Screws are more reliable, but you must torque them adequately. <S> A better option might be to switch to a screw-and-clamp type receptacle, which can support 4 wires in special grooves under its screws (2 per screw). <S> Assuming Code allows this; the choice of push connector for 2 wires is an odd one since there are already 2 receptacle backstabs. <S> I suspect there may be a local amendment that requires the push connectors and pigtailing . <S> Cablewise is a different problem <S> This appears to be modern construction using steel sheathed AC cable instead of non-metallic. <S> Nobody uses AC cable instead of Romex for no reason. <S> This is certainly due to a local amendment requiring it . <S> This means you also need to use AC cable or proper EMT conduit. <S> The two upward holes in the junction box are already occupied . <S> This means you will have to come into the bottom and go upward, or relocate one of the existing cables to side or bottom if possible. <A> Yes, you can connect to the push-on connectors, or to the outlet. <S> Connecting to the push-on connectors is the best approach. <S> You can not attach the new ground to the outlet. <A> It definitely looks like there's an extra slot on those connectors so you could use those. <S> The existing cable looks like #12 BX so check codes if you're thinking of using Romex. <S> Good luck <A> Yes you could connect to the connector or the receptacle, but I wouldn't go to the receptacle when an opening is available on the connector. <S> Actually I never spliced through a receptacle in a commercial project (which I assume this is because of the data jack). <S> For me it would be pretty hard to fish Armor Clad cable into the box and properly ground in the self-grounding cable connectors without access to the outside of the box. <S> I would look to find a 1/2" knock-out and use MC cable and pigtail the ground from the MC cable to the box and receptacle. <S> It looks like the receptacle has clamp connections (not stab-backs based on no release tabs on the receptacle), <S> if they are clamps they are just fine to use. <A> There are wiring kits for TV's that are essentially two hole grommets and an in-wall extension cord that run up to the TV. <S> They require no "wiring" because the TV just plugs into the existing lower outlet. <S> I would love to have a high mounted outlet, but it's something to consider if it looks like the wiring might be too hard.
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You could connect your new cable to the extra screws on the outlet if the existing connectors won't hold an additional wire. Note how there are no grounds in the box; those are on the AC cable and secured by the AC cable's clamps. It also looks like stranded wire, do not wrap stranded around any screws, you would have to use stake-ons, the clamps backs are better. The problem is your cable needs to go upward. If your code requires conduit, it's going to mean quite a bit more work than just fishing a few feet of romex through the wall. However, I don't see where the ground wire originates, so you will need to address that. Also check breaker size, if the wire is #12 like the pigtail wires it may be a 20A breaker, and #12 is the minimum size in most jurisdictions.
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120 volt timer passes small amount of current when off 120 volt timer passes small amount of current when off. It's on Christmas outdoor LED lighting. The lights glow real dim when the timer goes to the off position. Does it on two different timers. Do I have a short in the lights or what might cause this? <Q> This is a common issue with LED lights, and we have a few questions about in regards to normal light bulbs, but nothing I remember that is specifically about Christmas lights. <S> Plug in timers (and some smart switches, motion detector switches, lighted switches, etc) need to get power from somewhere <S> so they can operate. <S> In the past, these devices have used the fact that incandescent bulbs need a ton of power to cheat the system a little bit. <S> Even when the device is off, it's running a very small current through the lights so it can power its internal circuits. <S> The problem is that LEDs will glow with even a minuscule amount of current, so this little trick that was invisible in the past, now shows up as glowing LEDs. <S> For Christmas lights, I would say it's no big deal, and just live with it. <S> It's not going to cause a problem. <S> They are cheap timers that are using a "vampire" method to steal power from the circuit. <S> If it's unacceptable, the only fix is to get a timer that says it will work with LEDs or a timer that is obviously powered by batteries. <S> These will use AAA or AA batteries. <A> Another solution: plug a small incandescent lamp into the timer, in parallel with the LED string. <S> The current draw of the incandescent should keep the LED string from glowing when the timer is supposedly "off". <S> Ideally, this could be something as small as a 4W night light. <S> But, the details of where you're installing this could make it impractical. <A> There are 3 ways that a timer, motion detector, smart switch or other device that needs power when the controlled device is off can get power: <S> Leak through the main circuit <S> (switched hot)This is what you currently have. <S> It works great with incandescent bulbs. <S> It does not work well with many other things, including LED lights. <S> NeutralThis is preferred, by far. <S> However, it is often not an easy thing to do in an older house because many switches do not have neutral available at the switch. <S> The current NEC requires neutral to be available (or easily added via conduit) at all switches for exactly this reason. <S> But in older houses it is a big problem as it is often quite a hassle to replace cables. <S> GroundThis is cheating a bit. <S> However, if designed properly and UL (or similar) <S> Listed, it is OK . <S> But you can't simply say "neutral and ground are almost the same <S> so I'll hook up this timer's neutral wire to ground" <S> - it may function but it is not safe unless designed to be installed that way. <S> Unfortunately, often the only way to tell what method a particular timer/switch/etc. <S> uses is to carefully read the installation manual. <S> Fortunately, those manuals are generally available from the manufacturer (and often from retailers such as Home Depot) online. <S> If the instructions indicate a neutral is required, it is. <S> If the instructions make a big deal about ground <S> but there is no neutral connection <S> then that is a strong indication that ground is being used instead of neutral. <S> If the instructions indicate that the timer/switch/etc. <S> is compatible with LED lighting <S> then it is almost certainly using neutral or ground. <S> On the other hand, if the instructions specifically exclude LED lighting then leaking current through switched hot is quite likely.
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A timer that only uses a coin cell is probably just using that battery for a timer backup and might still steal power from the lights.
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Using a heater and toaster oven trips the breaker. Can an electrician fix this? Using a heater and a toaster oven together, both about 1500w each, trips the breaker. It seems both are on the same circuit. Moving either appliance to a different location is not really an option.Can an electrician do something so that this load can be handled? I want to get an idea of his work.. what will he do? <Q> This is relatively straightforward for the combination of a heater and toaster. <S> Unless you are a toast making factory, the toaster runs like 3 minutes per day. <S> During that time, turn off the heater. <A> Yes an electrician can fix this. <S> I would suggest a second 20a circuit be pulled in. <S> 3000w / 120v= <S> 25 amps <S> so you really don’t have many options as you are limited to 20 amp circuits. <S> Depending on the type of service panel and if it has space may really affect the cost ( and access to an attic or crawl space to pull the new circuit). <A> Why run the heater if the toaster oven is on? <S> When the toaster oven is on, it also is putting 1500W of heat (about 4000 BTU) into the room. <S> Therefore it is redundant to the heater, and you don't need the heater at those times. <S> You can turn it off. <S> Someone raised an issue about toaster oven heat being delayed heat. <S> Since your other heater is a radiator type, it is also delayed about the same. <S> Improving service means running new cables to the service panel. <S> The electrician will cheerfully take your money to run 1 circuit on 1 cable. <S> However, the lion's share of cost will be labor of fishing cables through the walls. <S> That labor is unaffected by whether 1 cable is run, or 4. <S> So there's big economical savings in running as many as 4 additional circuits on 4 cables (provided you have the circuit breaker space) for barely more than the cost of cables and outlets. <S> There is also a way to run 2 circuits per cable, however it is largely obsolete and requires compromises. <S> If this is a kitchen, there is no such thing as too many circuits in a kitchen. <S> Code now requires 2 complete 20A circuits merely for kitchen countertop receptacles. <S> Practicality calls for a dedicated non-GFCI circuit for the fridge. <S> You can't have too many. <S> Think about a circuit dedicated to heating If you're running a new circuit anyway , you'll get far more heat capacity by running a 240V circuit. <S> This allows up to 3840 watts of heating per circuit instead of 1500. <S> Further, it allows (requires) you to use installed heaters actually made for, and safe for , permanent/continuous service. <S> Cost for the heaters is very minimal, at $50 for a 2000W Cadet, and that's comparable to a radiator style heater and cheaper-by-the-year than those cheapie 1500W heater-fans. <S> And worlds safer! <S> And you can run two of them on a 20A/240V circuit. <S> Resistive heating is cheap. <S> To buy. <A> Kitchen circuits have been required to be 20A for a long time, your capacity then is 120 Volts x 20 Amps = <S> 2400 Watts. <S> If you reduce the heater to 900 or 600 watts then it should not trip. <S> If it does then your breaker is likely failing and replacing it may help. <S> However you may actually find more devices on the same circuit, even the fridge is allowed to be on the same circuit as countertop receptacles. <S> Sometimes people state that a circuit should not be loaded more than 80%, this is generally conservative and safe advice, but the NEC only restricts 80% on motors and circuits that operate at full current for 3 hours or longer, which both the toaster and heater should be cycling loads. <S> Otherwise routing another cable or two from the panel is the only option, this could take 2 hours, it could take 22. <S> Bear in mind your general purpose receptacle circuits were not designed to replace an engineered heating system. <S> Constantly using general purpose in that manner will certainly result in shortened lifespan of some of electrical system components. <A> There might be a shortcut that can be taken depending on how nearby circuits are run, but figuring that out would take an on-site electrician anyway. <S> Go into the bid process assuming that a new wire will need to be run. <S> If there are not any blank spots in your current breaker panel, that will make the job a little more expensive if you can use "double" breakers, or a lot more expensive if you need a second electrical panel. <S> What you can't do is just replace the breaker, because the breaker is limited by the wire size. <S> Even if you happened to have wire rated for a 20A circuit, that still is not enough to power two 1500w appliances.
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Since you said toaster oven (in a kitchen) there should be 2 20 amp circuits for the small appliances already. The only thing that can be done will involve running a new wire, which is typically a more expensive job (compared to just switching out some light switches or an outlet). There is something you can do: Do not turn on both appliances at the same time! You should be able to get a quote on the job that explains the scope of work , new circuit, number of boxes and outlets ect. So shutting off the heater while toasting is a good plan that will yield about the same heat in the room.
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Outlet turning on ceiling fan I have two switches in my kitchen for the ceiling fan. One red, white, black and ground wire. It was replaced with a receptacle but the fan and other lights on that circuit only work when you plug something into the outlet and turn it on.... What gives <Q> Fire your electrician <S> That is such a fundamentally dumb "do not know what's going on here <S> " mistake that it took some serious hubris to intentionally do this without knowing (or caring) how things work . <S> This person is a danger to self and others. <S> Keep in mind that electrical is a world where blindly attempting combinations is dangerous . <S> There are many combinations which will appear on the surface to work, but will kill you . <S> Look closer at the existing circuit and wiring From here we need to look closer at what the switches are controlling - fan and light specifically. <S> We need to see which wires might be in the back of the switch box, and how they are grouped. <S> And we might need to make some design compromises, or fish additional wires into the walls. <S> Your next step is to post some photos of the wiring in the switch box, and if there's only one cable in there, the fan box as well. <S> Don't disturb how wires are interconnected; that is essential information because colors mean nothing. <A> This sounds like a switch loop has been wired to an outlet. <S> Basically, there are two ways that a switch gets wired. <S> The other way this can be done is if the main power comes into the box that the light is in. <S> Now, we don't want to spend money on two cables just to go down to the switch box and back up, so we do it with only one cable. <S> This is known as a switch loop. <S> From your description, it sound like you only have one cable coming in to the box. <S> One way this could have been wired is that the constant power would be on the black wire, and that would connect to both of the switches. <S> Then, the white wire would be connected to one switch and the red to the other. <S> Now white and red are switched power, but if you didn't know how that all worked, you might assume that white is neutral like it is in most boxes. <S> Now, if you pull out the switch and connect an outlet to the white and black wires, you have an outlet that is wired "in series" with the lights or fan. <S> With the outlet in place, electricity will not normally flow through just the outlet, and the lights don't come on. <S> If you plug in a device, electricity can then run through it and provide power to the lights. <S> The voltage and current will depend on the device you plugged in, but some power will get to the light (just not the right amount). <S> This incorrect wiring can lead to damage to the light or the plugged in device. <S> There is a way to fix this, but in order to have a working outlet in that position, you have to give up one of your switches and also rewire the boxes that the light or fan are connected to. <S> That is beyond the scope of this question and would require quite a bit more expertise than just replacing a switch. <A> I have two switches in my kitchen for the ceiling fan. <S> One red, white, black and ground wire. <S> Making a few assumptions <S> I would say.... <S> You are describing a three wire cable which has a white, red, black, and bare copper ground. <S> Typically this type of wire is run to a ceiling fan location so you can switch the light and fan separately from the switch. <S> None of those wires should go directly to an outlet. <S> The power wire should be a two wire cable, white black and bare copper ground. <S> You need to identify which is which then then experiment by connecting the neutrals together (the white wires) then taking the black hot wire from the two wire cable and connecting it with either the red or black from the fan switch leg (3 wire cable with red and black) until the fan comes on. <S> If you have no light switched separately ignore the wire that doesn't turn the fan on and complete the switch by connecting the black from the two wire cable to one switch pole, and the red or black from the 3 wire cable that turns the fan on to the other pole.
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One way is that power comes in to the switch box on one cable and the switched power leaves the box in another cable and connects to the light/fan/whatever.
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air-compressor size for continuous duty What size air-compressor is needed for continuous duty ? I'm trying to use a 90psi needle scaler to remove paint layers from an outdoor wrought-iron trellis that has lots of nooks and crannies an abrasive pad and angle-grinder cannot reach. My brand-name 6-gallon air-compressor doesn't have enough capacity to support continuous use: the scaler works well only for about 5-6 seconds and then its ability to remove the paint rapidly peters out. Then it takes about 15-20 seconds for the compressor to get back to 90psi. So the job is taking forever. <Q> Your tool and your compressor both have (or should have, but they probably do) ratings in "Standard Cubic Feet Per Minute" (SCFM) possibly stated just as CFM. <S> The compressor SCFM needs to be equal to or greater than that of the tool to operate the tool continuously. <S> Small "homeowner-grade" compressors are often not rated for continuous operation at all (they will overheat if asked to supply their maximum SCFM for more than 10 or 20 minutes at a time.) <S> Industrial compressors are more typically designed to operate continuously for long periods without failure. <A> For continuous duty on the compressor end you need a rotary screw rather than a piston compressor; you've probably seen road crews towing them behind the truck. <S> (And technically an air set to inject oil into the line, because if you're stopping to lubricate it manually the tool isn't in continuous use.) <S> The first problem you're running into is that portable compressors provide very small amount of air. <S> A typical six gallon pancake provides about 2.5 CFM, which suffices to run staplers and finish guns all day. <S> Anything using more air like a framing gun or your scaler and you'll be waiting on the compressor. <S> They can still be useful with large tools you use intermittently. <S> The second problem you'll encounter is physics. <S> Enthusiastic horsepower claims aside <S> you can only draw a finite amount of power from a standard outlet. <S> Ingersoll Rand's Garage Mate is a popular portable compressor retailing around $600, which gets you a whopping 5.5 CFM. <S> (Portable is a bit of a stretch too, since it has a twenty gallon tank.) <S> That's about all you're getting from a regular outlet. <S> Unless you're running a large assortment of tools it's probably more economical to stick with corded electric ones if you need to use them continuously. <A> I used a 90 PSI needle scaler (Ingersoll-Rand Model 125) for two weeks, four hours a day of nearly continuous scaling. <S> This needle scaler consumes 8 SCFM. <S> My compressor was an Ingersoll-Rand Model 30 with an 80 gallon tank, rated for 24 SCFM, with a 7.5 horsepower motor that consumes 40 amps at 230 volts. <S> The compressor cycled on and off every few minutes during the entire experience and it got blazing hot, but it was able to keep up with the air demand. <S> In my opinion, a needle scaler is the wrong tool to clean a wrought iron trellis. <S> Use an angle grinder with a knotted wire wheel to get into 99% of the nooks and crannies, and finish the last 1% with the needle scaler using the compressor you already have. <S> If you're just touching up random spots that you missed with the wire wheel, you can tolerate brief delays while the compressor pumps up.
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For continuous tool use what you need is a compressor which provides a higher CFM than the tool requires.
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How do we add structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount? We are preparing to install a single stud TV mount, (Kanto PS300). However the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs. We want to open up the wall and frame in a faux 24" vertical stud, securely suspended between the real ones, then attach the TV mount wall plate assembly To the faux stud. So, how do we add a structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount? We have a handyman coming over who says he can do this but are looking for tips/best practices, (proper blocking/bracing, etc.) from people who know about framing, so we can make sure the job is done right. We have searched for how to do this but have not come up with much, but it could be that we lack the correct terminology to search for. Is there a name for what we are trying to do here? Any help you can provide would be appreciated. Thanks! <Q> A bunch of ways to do this. <S> What I would probably do myself, which is not what you are currently planning, is: <S> Cut a piece of plywood, probably 3/4" thick, 24" tall by ~ 20" (studs 16" apart) or ~ 28" (studs 24" apart). <S> Mount the plywood with 3 screws on each stud. <S> Paint the plywood to match the wall. <S> It doesn't have to be perfect because it will be mostly hidden by the TV. <S> Mount the Kanto PS300 to the plywood. <S> I wouldn't necessarily recommend that for all situations, because of the need to paint the plywood . <S> If you insist on the original plan: Cut a hole in the drywall ~ 36" tall (24" stud + 4" on top and on bottom for the cross pieces) <S> x ~ 16" or 24" (depending on distance between existing studs) <S> Screw metal brackets into the existing studs and new 2x4 pieces to span at top and bottom. <S> Screw metal brackets into the new 2x4 cross pieces and the new stud at top and bottom. <S> Patch drywall Paint <S> Mount Kanto PS300 <A> If you insist on opening the wall, which seems rather foolish to me considering the other options available, I wouldn't install a full-height stud. <S> I'd keep the destruction to a minimum and enjoy a better outcome as a result <S> Open a section of wall slightly taller than the TV mount bracket and to the center of each adjacent stud. <S> Add cross-blocks between those studs, centered on the top and bottom edges of the opening. <S> Use 3" gold screws to toenail them in place. <S> Add a vertical block between these two cross blocks, also toenailing it twice at each end into the horizontal blocks. <S> | <S> | | || |____________________________________________| <S> || . .|............................................ <S> |. . <S> || . <S> |____________________________________________| . <S> || . <S> | | <S> | new block --^ <S> | <S> .<-|-- <S> opening <S> in| . <S> | | <S> # | <S> | . <S> | <S> drywall| . <S> | | <S> # <S> | <-- new stud | . <S> || . <S> | bracket ----|- <S> ># | <S> | . <S> | <S> If any of that doesn't seem rigid enough, apply a heavy bead of construction adhesive to each joint as though you were caulking it. <S> It'll be rock solid. <S> Even without the adhesive, this will be more rigid than a full-height stud since the load is transferred to two studs, both of which are already well anchored. <A> It interferes least with the electrical and cabling if you screw a piece of flat piece of 26 ga. <S> sheet metal with cut outs for electrical flat to the studs, just behind the drywall. <S> Then mount TV bracket using toggles. <A> There are options here; <S> you could avoid opening the wall if you don't mind looking at some supporting structure on the exposed wall behind the TV. <S> I am assuming you want to avoid that for the sake of the finished appearance. <S> It very well may look nicer that way. <S> A horizontal 2x4 block is not going to work. <S> For these reasons I would say adding a full height stud (vertical) is really your best bet. <S> The mounts that attach to a single stud usually have three bolts and must attach very securely. <S> All you will have to do is toe-nail the stud into the top and bottom plates where you want it. <S> It will be cheap (maybe $5?) easy, and secure. <S> You'll want four 8d common nails, two on each side. <S> Toe nailing can be a little frustrating until you get the hang of it, and it can be very difficult if there's limited space. <S> You could use screws instead of nails, but should at least use special "structural screws" or "construction screws" - not ordinary deck screws, and definitely not drywall screws. <S> Since this isn't holding up your house, just your TV, you have some latitude. <S> With screws, you can probably toenail the bottom in place without removing your cove molding. <S> Re-reading the question - it looks like you want to install a horizontal block or blocks. <S> That works if you install two horizontal blocks with a vertical block between them. <S> This can be done with a smaller hole in the drywall. <S> I really don't think there's much difference in the work involved in a big 16" x 8' drywall patch versus a small 16" x 2' drywall patch. <S> However in this case, the small drywall patch may be less noticeable behind the TV, if the patching is less than perfect and visible.
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Note that with a single stud mount, you need to have attachment points that are spaced along a vertical line. But if you are going to open up the wall to put in a stud, you are going to need to do drywall patching and then painting, so this will actually be a lot less work. But if you want to use a single-stud style mount, that is going to mean opening up the wall. If it's an articulating mount, the cantilever when the TV away from the wall puts a lot of pullout stress on the fasteners, especially the top one.
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Is this mold on my room's ceiling? Is it dangerous? We have a room that has been unused for a while. We noticed some faint spots appearing on the ceiling a couple years ago. The spots have slightly darkened over time but haven't changed in size or shape. I was not sure if it was mold or something else. We couldn't see any obvious signs of water damage or moisture in that area. We even looked in the attic. Other than these spots isolated in one corner, the ceiling and other walls look fine. We ignored it for all these years as the spots haven't really changed in size, shape or color but now we want to use the room and were planning on painting it when we noticed these spots again. Could this be mold? If so, is it dangerous or we can just put a good primer and paint it over? Ceiling picture without flash: Ceiling picture with flash: <Q> They definitely look like water spots or leaks. <S> You stated you've been in the attic and saw no sigh of leaks... <S> have you been up there lately and actually looked at the drywall where the spots are? <S> If no signs of any leaks, blotch some bleach over the spot. <S> If it's an old water stain that might remove it. <S> It really does not look like mold. <S> have you ever had any rodents up in the attic?? <A> Looks like a leak in the roof or plumbing above! <S> Find out what is going on before the Sheetrock comes down! <A> Here are a couple links that may help you make the determination: https://www.familyhandyman.com/cleaning/mold-and-mildew/how-to-test-for-mold/ https://www.moldbacteria.com/mold/how-to-distinguish-mold-growth-from-other-discolorations.html <A> Is this along the outside wall ? <S> If so, probably caused by ice damming in the past if you are in an area susceptible to freezing. <S> Now that you are monitoring them, watch out for further wetness. <S> Don't worry though, once dry, prime and paint. <S> Mold starts with dark spots on areas that stay moist.
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They look like water stains. It's difficult to look at a picture to determine if dark spots on a ceiling are mold. If you do paint, get a stain blocker and apply it per instructions before painting.
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Is there a simple way to make these rough sawn, exposed joists level and flat? I am renovating the kitchen in my 100+ year old American Four Square home. I was unfortunately not able to salvage the original longleaf pine flooring, so it has all been pulled up. I'm left with original rough sawn 2x8 joists (spanning about 13'). The problem I am facing is that none of the joists are in the same plane, even at the ends where they are sitting on the foundation (one end) and a support wall (other end). Luckily, there is a cinder block wall near the middle of the span running perpendicular to the joists. The most obvious thing to do is shim under that to get the middle sag out of each joist. But since none of the joists are in the same plane at the ends, this job isn't as simple as that. I'm not quite sure how to tackle this problem. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Here are some pics of the room. Notice that there is one point in the foundation wall where the joists are resting on a wood header and they notched the end of a few joists halfway up. If you have any idea how to address that, that would be great, too. EDIT - Finished Job Thanks for all the advise. I decided to go with the shimming approach, which was a bit tricky because the joist are quite wavy (up and down). I created custom shims by scribing a pattern on to a level 2x4 and cutting on the scribe line with a jig saw. If I would have had fewer mechanicals in the joist bay, sistering would have probably been faster and easier. Ripping 14' with a jig saw is time consuming and I still had to use additional shims when my scribe wasn't accurate enough. I used Advantech subfloor adhesive to set the shims in place, then used a variety of screws to secure each shim. In some places I needed to use 3" screws because my shim was about 1.5" tall! If you haven't used Advantech subfloor or adhesive before, I highly recommend it. Sistering probably would have been necessary if I wasn't lucky enough to have a block wall mid way under the joists to act as a girder. The original joists would have needed the extra strength from a glued and screwed sister without the block wall. Here is what it looks like with the shims installed: <Q> The Code requires the floor joists to support 40 psf Live Load (people, furniture, etc.) <S> plus Dead Load (permanent flooring, insulation, etc.). <S> It appears your joists are about 24” on center (based on the size of the bricks). <S> Therefore, your joists (rough sized) will support about 120 plf at 13’ span depending on the species and grade. <S> If the joists are at 24” on center, then your floor will support about 60 psf (Live Load and Dead Load). <S> Your dead load should be between 10 psf and 15 psf. <S> So, your joists are adequate. <S> However, in kitchens we always add a joist (or 2) under the refrigerator. <S> Notching <S> the bearing end “about half way up” is serious. <S> This limits the support strength in “shear” but not “bending”. <S> (Notches in the middle third of the span affects bending more than shear.) <S> With that big of notches, I’d guess (without actually doing the calculations) you’ll loose about 20% of the total strength of the beam. <S> I’ve seen leveling done with a transit and level, but it’s time consuming. <S> Start at the highest point in the room and work out in all directions. <A> I've seen leveling of floor joists like this done by sistering new members against the side of all the existing joists. <S> They are installed such that the top edge of the new members are offset from the tops of the existing joists to create a new planar surface that is level and even. <S> In such situation the highest point of the existing joints is set even with the sistered member that is attached at this high point. <S> Installing these additional members does impact the existing diagonal blocking that would have to be removed and re-done. <A> I think your on the right track to start by shimming under the joists along the top of the cinder-block wall. <S> The target height for the middle of the joists is the most common high-level of the joist-ends. <S> Then lay shims on top of the low joist-ends to bring them up to the target height. <S> I've ripped unusable (warped) 2x4s and thin sheet materials into long strips for the shims. <S> I like to have a selection of 1/16 and 1/8 inch shims. <S> If the shims on top of the joists-ends are laid down with adhesive, they won't move around on you when you lay the sub-floor. <S> Shim up to, but not over, <S> the target height. <S> The sub-floor can span some un-shimmed distance (say 16 inches), so the shims don't have to be continuous. <S> But there should be shimming under all the sub-floor joints. <S> A stiffer sub-loor (7/8" or better) is more forgiving about the spanning. <S> I borrow a rotating laser-level for similar work, it saves a lot of string or hand level work. <S> I'd need another picture of the notched joist-ends to comment on that issue.
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Therefore, you can shim each joist to get the joists level, but I’d keep the added weight (shims) to a minimum and I would not add a ceiling finish under the joists. The shim strips can just be scored and snapped off at the needed lengths.
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Could using an orifice for the wrong gas type damage a water heater? Question...Over the past 18 months, after our home was built, we learned our two tankless water heaters have been running propane through a natural gas orifice. We discovered the issue after hearing a loud noise coming from one of the water heaters. Could this have damaged the water heaters? Thanks in advance <Q> I learned this the hard way; hooked up a nat gas grill to a propane bottle. <S> On the lowest burner setting flame came out around the space between the top and bottom of the grill. <S> In round numbers the gas molecules take up the same volume ( Ideal gas law) . <S> In the nat gas molecule you have one C and 4 H to burn , in a propane molecule you have three C and eight H to burn. <S> So the nat gas orifice is larger to let more molecules through , it lets the same larger number of propane molecules through producing more heat/flame. <A> From memory the propane orifice would be larger so by using the natural gas <S> your heater would not get as hot as it would with the correct orifice <S> so I do not think it would hurt anything. <S> Added : <S> Orifice size for natural gas range from # 54-31 <S> (drill bit sizes)Propane orifices range #62-48 <S> so I had it backwards <S> The larger the number the smaller the hole. <S> In this case there was two much going to the heater <S> so it may have shortened the systems life , however since the air mixture was probably off <S> it may not have been burning efficiently and wasting gas. <A> Damaged? <S> Probably not, just inefficient and more prone to the flame blowing out. <A> An appliance designed for natural gas has the burner orifices (flame holes) designed for the pressure and flame temperature of a natural gas system. <S> Propane burns with twice the energy of natural gas, so if you put propane through a burner designed for the lower pressure / lower yield gas, it will burn significantly hotter and potentially more dangerously. <S> It will also likely waste a lot of heat because the heat exchanger in the water heater was designed for a specific amount of flame contact. <S> So the hotter / larger flame coming from the propane will just go up the flue as waste heat. <S> It MIGHT possibly cause damage to the heat exchanger, only the water heater mfr could tell you for sure, but it's a sure thing they will not tell you that it is OK. <S> Of concern here is not only this, but if someone did that with your hot water heater, could they have plumbed the propane into your entire house? <S> If so, there is significant risk of that excess heat causing damage to the fire box of your heater, which can then lead to gasses like carbon monoxide getting into your living space and poisoning you! <S> There have been news reports of whole families being killed as a result of substituting propane for natural gas to heat their homes (without making the necessary changes).
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Nat gas orifice is significantly larger than propane orifice , so the heaters have been exposed to more heat /flame than design ; that could be a problem.
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Double sink with disposal - water shoots up when disposal runs I have a double sink with a disposal on the right side. The disposal joins the left sink drain via a slip joint baffle tee below the left sink then the drain goes to the P-trap and out. It was installed by a licensed plumber. Every time the disposal is turned on water shoots up into the left sink which is where we like to keep a dish drainer. What can be done to stop the water from shooting up? <Q> My instincts are inline with the comments by MonkeyZues and Solar Mike. <S> The impeller design of some disposals accelerates the discharge. <S> A partially plugged trap will send water up, following the path of least resistance (and still let the sinks drain). <S> If the discharge from the disposal swept down (with a swept tee) <S> the discharge would be directed down instead of splashing into the vertical-side of the straight tee. <S> Both ideas are simple and inexpensive - cleaning the trap and swapping the tee. <A> Baffled Tee. <S> How to Install a Garbage Disposer - plumbingsupply.com <A> What about adding a dedicated p-trap for the garbage disposal, which would also cause the Tee to be slightly lower and further down from the sink, which might also help. <S> I have seen installation where there are separate P-traps for both.
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It might also help to lower the tee to make it further from the sink.
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How to hook up a new gas range with mismatched fittings, and meet all code requirements? The connection on the stove appears to be female 1/2" NPT. The 3' long yellow flexible connector has a female flare connection with a 15/16-16 thread at both ends. At the stove end there is a male/male adaptor that converts the flare connection to 1/2" NPT. The same adaptor is at the other end (in the picture). The gas supply line (no valve now) has a female 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 Thread). The old valve is in the picture. New valve is arriving by FedEx. To make the new valve work, I have purchased a bushing 3/4" NPT (valve end) to 1/2" NPT (adaptor end). Note: It took half a day to even find a valve that would fit the 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 thread) that was useful in this case. It is a Legend 102-114. Questions: 1. Does the "NEW" solution described below meet US codes in general (I know that codes vary from Jurisdiction to jurisdiction)? 2. Should there be a ”Safety+Plus®2” (in the picture) in place of the steel adaptor at the supply end (my connector set did not include it, but many at the store had it). 3. Why are there two 5/8' OD flare connectors in existence with different threads? This complicated everything. For clarity: Gas is propane, all fittings except the new yellow flexible connector and the adaptors supplied with it are brass. ORIGINAL (supply to range): 5/8” OD copper pipe supply with female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to brass valve with two male flare (7/8-14 thread); to 5/8” OD copper pipe with female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to old stove (fitting unknown) NEW (supply to range): Original 5/8” OD copper pipe with original female brass flare (7/8-14 thread); to new brass valve with one male flare (7/8-14 thread) and one female 3/4' NPT; to new brass bushing 3/4 Male NPT to 1/2 Female NPT; to new 1/2 stainless or chromed steel adaptor Male NPT to male 5/8 OD flare (15/16-16 thread), supplied with new flexible yellow connector set; to female 5/8 OD flare (15/16-16 thread) on yellow connector (same at both ends); to new male 1/2'NPT, and into the stove. The installers that brought the stove and attached the new connector to it were unable to complete the connection at the supply end. Supply House has the identical new Gas Connector kits (adaptor; to yellow flexible tube with flare fittings); to adaptor or safety valve. But nothing that will adapt to the 5/8 OD flare (7/8-14 thread). And yet, in their brass fittings section, all 5/8 OD flare fittings were the SAE standard 5/8 OD (7/8-14) thread. <Q> I prefer gas rated pipe dope for gas <S> but there is a gas rated (yellow tape) for those that prefer tapes. <S> yes the part might cost a dollar or 2 more <S> but I get the correct parts that match the first time and don’t end up with a bunch of adapters or cobbled together parts. <S> The bonus about specialty stores is that they usually do know local codes and this project may be a good reason to give them a visit, I am not sure about the flair fitting prior to the valve that would bother me. <S> I have done a bunch of gas pipe work on my own homes including new gas services in several, but am an electrician by trade. <A> You don't have to use the adapters supplied with the yellow gas hose if they're not needed. <S> You can hook it up how it was with a 5/8 flare valve connected to your copper line, then connect the yellow hose directly to that without an adapter. <S> Then on the stove side use the supplied adapter to adapt from the hose's female flare to your stove pipe thread inlet. <A> I just ran into this myself, this evening. <S> They require fittings made of steel, not brass, and bear the marking "SS" on the fitting, designating that it is approved for stainless steel flared tubing. <S> Stainless steel is harder than copper or brass(?), and my understanding is that the tube flare is intended to deform (like a metal gasket), and not the fitting. <S> So the fitting is harder than the material being connected AFAIK. <S> My guess is they changed the thread to assure that SS is not installed into a brass flare fitting. <S> Also, fine threads 'pull' more torque than coarse thread, and this would make sense, as SS (which is harder than regular steel) would need more torque to insure proper sealing. <S> PS, uncoated brass flex is now prohibited in the code IIRC, and I believe it is required for you to change it out, if encountered (with coated SS flex line). <S> I myself bought my house with an existing stove (which I never moved, but my wife cleaned behind it once or twice; and the uncoated brass line blew one night! <S> (split open). <S> Mr K L
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I normally install the shutoff directly on the incoming gas line this way there is less chance of an issue.after the valve I install a flair adapter to match my flex gas tube . I have a theory: The flex lines to the appliance are rated different than copper in the wall to withstand occasional flexing if the appliance is moved, and are now usually stainless steel (and coated for secondary protection if a crack develops). I rarely order fittings on line and tend to use speciality shops not big box as they always have the correct fitting I need and many times helpful advice ,
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How to get this finish on a ceiling? The ceiling in this image is very typical of houses built in the 90s in the UK. Wondering if this type of finish is still available and what it would be called? I'm guessing its a kind of wallpaper that was put over the ceiling boards. It also has a flat border around the edges next to the coving, any idea how to achieve that kind of finish? <Q> This is done with a special roller and common plaster/mud. <S> It's just sort of hackle-dackle spackled on there, really amazingly cheap. <A> Google "textured painted ceiling" to find a wide variety of materials and tools including rollers with various textures. <S> The edges were probably done last with a small roller that has no texture. <A> In the UK that type of finish would almost certainly be produced with Artex - a product that is still available in the UK, though I don't know about other countries. <A> Without seeing the whole ceiling, it looks like a stomped texture with a subtle knock-down. <S> The smooth edge next to the trim, was most likely done with a drywall knife or clean brush. <S> This is a common finish in the US, that has been around for many, many decades.
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The purpose is to roughen the surface to conceal lack of parallelness in the ceiling panels, drywall taping lines, hole patches, and other surface defects. My father used to produce the edge feature simply by running a paint brush along the edge after the main texturing was completed.
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Replacing a power outlet safely I want to replace some power outlets in my condo with ones that have built-in USB ports. The condo was built in 2008. My thinking is I can simply turn off the breaker for those outlets and get to work. But then I thought... what if those outlets are mis-wired? Should I use an outlet tester? What is the best way to be safe when replacing power outlets? <Q> They are also useful to show that the correct breaker has been tripped before you start working. <S> Take pictures before you disconnect anything so you'll have accurate information in case you have to come back here and ask questions. <S> Follow the directions that will be included with the outlets. <S> Also, make sure none of the outlets are switched as that could interrupt your charging. <A> We have a FAQ for novices doing receptacles. <S> There are many tricks and traps when changing receptacles. <S> I wrote a Q&A specifically for folks like you, please review it. <S> The #1 thing I'd say that isn't mentioned there is <S> don't downgrade an outlet from GFCI to USB (unless it's redundant). <S> Speaking of testing, those 3-lamp testers have 3 Rather Useful lights which let you do three tests at once. <S> (Obviously, if any lights light, the outlet is most likely hot; but that is not enough.) <S> But the little chart/legend is completely wrong ; it's about as useful as a "magic 8-ball". <S> It's actually optimized for new construction; once built, houses have different kinds of problems. <S> However, the GFCI tester function is very nice; if you suspect a redundant GFCI, use the 3-lamp tester's TEST button. <S> It will trip this GFCI (obviously). <S> But if this one turns stone dead and refuses to reset, it tripped another GFCI somewhere else, which means this one is redundant and doesn't need to be a GFCI. <S> As far as safety, once you're opening things up, turn the entire house off and check it by plugging a lamp into both outlets. <S> There are so many surprises and gotchas for the novice (MWBC, borrowed neutrals, you name it) that it's not worth fooling around any other way. <S> It's what I do myself in our factory building; I pull the main 480V which shuts off all the 120/240V transformers. <A> You are correct in thinking to turn the breaker off. <S> Since your place was built in 08 it will be wired to code. <S> The new receptacles will usually have 3 different colored screws. <S> Brass color is hot normally <S> the black wireSilver color is neutral normally the white wireAnd <S> last a green screw <S> the equipment grounding is normally a bare copperSince you are in a condo <S> the colors may be slightly different the hot Brass screw could connect to any color other than white, gray or green. <S> The neutral silver screw may be white or gray only. <S> And the equipment grounding green screw will be green or bare copper. <S> Your outlet may say hot , neut next to the screws <S> i don’t remember seeing any UL approved receptacles that don’t have the colored screws. <S> Last don’t use the back stabs wrap the wire 2/3 to 3/4 wrap around the screw and torque to the MFG specifications. <S> (Back stabs have a high failure rate).
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An outlet tester is a great way to determine that an outlet is wired correctly.
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Can I run CAT6 FTP cables parallel to electrical cable in the same conduit? Can I run CAT6 FTP cables beside to electrical cable (220v 1 amp) in same PVC Trunking ? <Q> Absolutely not. <S> Low voltage (LV) and mains cannot share a conduit. <S> Further, you cannot attach anything else to the outside of the electrical conduit. <S> So forget about ty-wrapping the LV cable to the outside of the conduit... <A> You can run cables parallel outside conduit. <S> Ideally a few inches apart but in practice right next to each other is usually OK. <S> But you can't run them together inside conduit . <S> Plus, inside conduit you would be better off for the electrical cable using individual wires (appropriately sized & rated) instead, which is not an option for the CAT6 anyway. <A> Parallel <S> to is no big deal, people who fuss over things that will generally have no effect do like to keep a foot/30cm between them, ideally, but in point of fact the signal design is such that interference between 50/60 Hz powerlines and 100+MHz network wiring is not really a problem. <A> An important question for you to ask is this: what is the difference between Cat5e and Cat6? <S> The answer is shielding . <S> Cat6 adds a layer of shielding over Cat5e. <S> That shielding is designed to reduce electromagnetic(EMF) <S> interference <S> so you can get more signal through it. <S> Cat 7 and 8 add even more shielding. <S> Electrical wire is a significant source of EMF interference. <S> The more your wires run unshielded and parallel, the more interference they will get. <S> Mere perpendicular crossings are generally limited in how much interference they produce (although you should still limit exposure). <S> As such (ignoring the electrical code), you will render your Cat6 unusable, especially if you want to run 10gB Ethernet. <A> I cannot speak to building codes (though I was always told that running low-voltage wiring near high-voltage wiring was a really bad idea, in case of a fire or other damage-- in particular, never do this on either the interior or exterior of a building where they could be struck by an errant forklift or car, and short through each other), but I CAN talk about the signal issues. <S> Ethernet cables contain eight conductors, formed as four twisted pairs. <S> The idea of twisted pairs is that they are used as a balanced line , where one line in the pair carries a positive signal, and the other line in the pair carries the inverse of that signal. <S> Ethernet jacks , meanwhile, are implemented using magnetic isolators-- usually just called "magnetics" . <S> These are tiny air-core transformers, built right into the jacks. <S> The idea is that the positive and negative signal, applied to the coil forming one side of the transformer in the jack, produce a voltage in the coil in the opposite side of the jack. <S> Meanwhile, any external noise will introduce a voltage of equal sign and roughly equal magnitude in both lines, such that the net voltage across the lines in the coil due to the noise is very close to zero, and therefore the voltage induced in the opposite side of the magnetic isolator is also very close to zero. <S> Notice the word "roughly". <S> When an unshielded Ethernet cable is VERY close to a noisy line-- either an electrical line, or another unshielded signal cable with similar twist rates but <S> higher power-- <S> then the difference in the noise power induced in the two wires in the twisted pair can be significant enough to induce a significant voltage across the magnetic. <S> Ethernet energy levels are fairly low partly to ensure that adjacent Ethernet cables in a trunk can coexist without much crosstalk. <S> But with power lines, antenna feeds, and so forth, this can be an issue. <A> The answer is: NO! <S> Due to the emg interference.
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Not in the same conduit as 120 or 220 - 240VAC, no.
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Safe to use a 16 amp motor on a 20 amp circuit with a 15 amp outlet? I have a 1.5 hp table saw motor rated at 115v/16amp. My garage has all 20 amp breakers but all outlets are 15 amp. Does the 15 amp outlet present a hazard if the wiring and circuit are all rated at 20 amps? <Q> Just change out the receptacle I bet your tablesaw has a 5-20 plug on it, which won't fit into a 5-15 receptacle. <S> Since you have a 20A circuit, though, there's nothing wrong with having a 5-20T duplex receptacle on it, or even changing all the receptacles on the circuit to 5-20Ts from 5-15s. <S> This shouldn't be too tricky a job, as long as you turn off the breaker before you start (of course), change the receptacles one at a time, and note down how things were wired before you start unhooking them. <A> All of this is safe, except you cannot plug in the table saw. <S> What, you say? <S> The table saw has a common-as-dirt NEMA 5-15 plug? <S> How did that get there? <S> That right there is the fly in the ointment. <S> No, that is not safe. <S> A 16A motor needs a NEMA 5-20 recep. <S> (unless the motor has some very peculiar characteristics in which it's allowed to use a smaller plug AND breaker, but you do a specialized rain dance with Code to see if that is so). <S> However, there is nothing wrong with plugging a mix of 15A and 20A receps into a 20A branch circuit. <S> Make sure that if this recep is GFCI, that you either replace in-kind or move the GFCI recep to an upstream location and feed this location off its LOAD terminals. <S> 15A Receps are supposed to be rated for 20A passthru, and that includes GFCI receps. <A> Short answer is yes. <S> This causes the contacts to degrade and eventually introduce a good fire hazard. <S> The longer you run it over its rated amperage <S> the more likely you are to start a fire. <S> I'd replace the socket with a 15/20 socket like so <S> : https://bit.ly/34SZTvs <S> My table saw has similar ratings, and to be honest as long as you don't put a ton of load on the blade the current will stay less than 15 amps. <S> I've been running mine on a 15amp socket and breaker for 8 years. <S> Have blown the breaker a couple of times when a piece got stuck, but my house hasn't burned down yet.
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Also, if the existing receptacle is a 15A GFCI, it'll need to be replaced with a 20A GFCI, not a regular receptacle. If your table saw motor gets pinned down and is pulling > 15 amps, you've exceeded the specs for the outlet and it will get nice and warm.
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Repair frayed electrical wire with strain-relief stopper I am shocked at the condition of this wire on a Crane humidifier. Would like to repair the wire to return the device to being 100% safe. With there being plenty of "spare" wire in the 6ft length, I am thinking to cut the wire at the fray, and then route inside and crimp new connections. I don't think there is much in the existing crimped connections to consider leaving those as-is and splice the wire at a later point, right? My main question lies in how to replace the "stopper" (big white plastic piece) that is actually part of the white wire? This provides relief to the internal wiring and I worry just using the internal screw-down posts will not be sufficient (the manufacturer had both). <Q> Well, it's hard to tell. <S> That part is called a "strain relief" but in these types of mass produced products, it's often molded onto the cord when manufactured. <S> Unless the manufacturer sells a replacement part, it will be near impossible to exactly replace. <S> There is a possibility that you could slide it off that cord, but will be difficult to thread your "slack" cord though it. <S> Another potential, depending on your Xacto knife skills would be to try to cleanly cut into it from the side, coax it off, and then put it over the new cord, perhaps securing with some wraps of white electrical tape. <S> The part is held in place by the slot in the cover you removed. <S> Given the state of the cord, you are doing the right thing, even without the external strain relief, that first cable clamp is doing the internal work. <S> Your repaired device , even without the external strain relief, would be safer than the current condition. <A> Nice pun. <S> Your plan will work to get this appliance working again. <S> You can crimp or use blue wire nuts for the connections. <S> As far as the stopper, try cutting it at the seam and then peeling it off the wire and then super glue it back on to the wire at the right spot. <S> This is actually about appliance repair and will probably get flagged. <S> You could also go to an appliance repair shop and get an exact match or go to Crane's web site and look for a new cord. <A> The strain relief is molded on but can be recovered and reused. <S> The technique I use is to pull out the copper then drill out the plastic using a hand drill or pin vice until the strain relief is clear enough to allow the remaining cable to be reinserted. <S> It may be worth replacing the whole cable as PVC cables harden over time and <S> an identical looking repair re-using the existing cable will probably not last as long as the original cable did. <S> Over-drilling the original strain relief to allow a layer of heat-shrink tubing over the first few inches of cable where it where it passes through could result in longer cable life. <A> As DaveM says, repairing the cable without replacing the square strain relief that goes between the two halves of the case is better here than doing nothing. <S> There is still the possibility that the cable will chafe on the hole, and you will have difficulty finding a square strain relief to match the existing hole. <S> An alternative is to buy a round strain relief grommet (or cannibalize one off another piece of dead equipment) and drill a new hole in the casing to suit the grommet. <S> you need to find a flat area of the casing that is in the correct thickness range for the grommet. <S> The area to the right of the current cable exit looks promising (depending on the thickness of the casing there) but would mean the wire exits out the back. <S> Not sure if that works in your application. <S> Grommets come in two types. <S> One is made of flexible rubber shaped like a donut with a groove around the circumference for the casing material to sit in. <S> These are very simple in construction but fiddly to install. <S> Once the grommet is installed you thread the cable through. <S> The other is of hard plastic in two unequal parts. <S> You install the big part, then the cable, and finally the small part which is like a wedge. <S> In some cases you install the small part before the cable. <A> Either tie a knot in the cord ahead of the hold down clamp or go to Lowe's and get a grommet to fit in the cutout section. <S> Fix with some gorilla glue or rtv. <S> Will suffice with your needs. <A> Simply replace the cord. <S> I would think the hold down would be sufficient unless you plan on twirling it around your head. <S> Do not over think it.
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I then feed a little too much cable through the strain relief, add a couple of drops of cyanoacrylate glue (super glue, krazy glue etc) behind the strain relief, then pull the cable (and glue) back into the final position. As far as a special ‘ crimping tool , if you don’t know how to use common sense in your crimping let someone else do it or simply use the small blue wire nuts. Again I really would not worry about the square ‘strain relief’ , I think putting a new cord without the relief would be inherently better as it would allow more movement and not have such a sharp movement radius, if that makes sense.
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Rewiring for doorbell, is idea up to code? Behind my doorbell panel, a 24VAC transformer is currently wired into mains (USA) using wire nuts. I am interested in tapping into mains to power an IoT device that would integrate with the doorbell (similar to this implementation ). I wish to continue allowing the existing transformer to draw from mains while also powering a USB power adapter, all while staying compliant with electrical code. The resulting implementation would continue to fit within the doorbell enclosure. Some options I was considering: Split the existing connections (e.g. using Wago 221-413 connectors) and expose a non-grounded connector for use with a USB power adapter Replace the direct connection to the transformer with a grounded connector (e.g. this ), rewire the transformer to a plug, and drive both that transformer and the USB power supply with a splitter Though less preferable, I was also considering tapping into the 24VAC output from the transformer to drive 5VDC, or having my device be battery-powered. Any advice on how I should best proceed would be greatly appreciated. <Q> Wow, now that I see your picture, this thing is a hatchet job. <S> No, no. <S> That transformer cannot just be stuffed loose in a plastic (!!) <S> Box. <S> There is no separation between mains and low voltage. <S> What a fiasco. <S> I would extract the doorbell wiring from the box and bring it out to the wall through a hole outside the box. <S> Now, with only mains wiring in the box, I would install 2 standard receptacles (path of least challenge) with 2-gang cover plate, and fit up a plug-in "wall wart" transformer for the doorbell. <S> Use another socket for any bog standard USB supply from the local gas station. <S> It's all about separation <S> There should be a metal curtain between your mains and low-voltage wiring. <S> This is where we get into mains wiring methods . <S> This separation is easy with doorbell transformers; they make transformers that mount on a 1/2" knockout or a junction box cover plate. <S> The mains wiring is contained; the 24V comes out to open screw terminals. <S> The single best way to achieve that is to install a common receptacle and plug a quality USB power supply <S> (Apple iPad is my pick) in the receptacle. <S> Install any common 1-gang deep "handy-box" steel junction box right next to the doorbell box. <S> That holds the receptacle. <S> Assuming the power supply cable going into the doorbell box is full-current-rated, reroute it into the handy-box instead, remembering minimum slack (6" of wires free inside the box). <S> Connect from the handy-box into the old doorbell box. <S> I'm a conduit person <S> so I would go into a standard knockout via a steel conduit nipple to the handy-box, and use THHN wire between; this also carries ground to the metal doorbell box. <S> But you could use a few inches of appropriate Romex (most places sell it by the foot, remember 6" tail on each end). <S> Or alternately, just install a power cord (with strain relief) on the doorbell box. <S> In all things mains, hook up safety ground first always, and never disconnect it, not even for troubleshooting <S> (it's never the problem). <S> Plug the USB power supply into one socket, and (if needed) the doorbell box's new line cord into the other. <A> Use a bridge rectifier and a LM2956 module to make 5VDC from the 24VAC supply. <A> Hard to say for sure without seeing a picture of your existing installation. <S> But typical, and ideal here, is a box with transformer mounted on the outside and standard receptacles on the front for your USB adapter to plug in. <S> Another question Can a doorbell transformer sit loose inside main panel? <S> addresses the issue of mounting on outside vs. inside a breaker panel. <S> This is much the same, just mount in on the outside of a regular junction box with receptacles in the same box - i.e., transformer on the side, receptacles in front. <S> Having trouble finding an exact match at the moment. <S> This question <S> What is this thing on my junction box? <S> addresses a transformer on the outside of a box (which is what you should have) and discusses hooking up a separate box to the same power. <S> But you can hook it all up with <S> **one* box, as long as it is large enough (which should not be a problem as the transformer is outside <S> so it only adds a pair of wires compared to the receptacles by themselves.) <A> There are a few alternatives you could consider as well. <S> For instance: if the IoT widget has a low power draw, as the ESP module would, power it from the low voltage side of the transformer. <S> You'll need a little power supply board that can take about 16 VAC in and put out whatever DC voltage your circuit requires. <S> (HVAC circuits use 24 VAC, but doorbells in USA usually run on a 16 VAC transformer.) <S> Another option is to detect the doorbell ring rather than relaying it. <S> The ELK 930 doorbell and telephone ring detector kit does this. <S> It installs in series with the existing doorbell circuit. <S> Current flowing in the circuit when the bell is rung causes an opto-isolator to trigger; the isolated output is often connected to a security alarm system or a home automation system.. or a home-grown IoT device. <S> The only problem with the ELK model in particular is that they just charge too much. <S> It has been priced about US$60 for more than a decade..
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Wire it up in the usual, Code-legal way, so both the receptacle and doorbell box get power. This concept of "metal curtain" must be respected.
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circuit breaker that trips when there is a loss of power Is there such an animal that would trip a circuit breaker when there is a loss of input power? Similarly with the relay system which energized to close the main contact to apply main/grid power to the service panel, but when there is a loss of grid power = loss power to the relay which disengage the main contacts which isolate the grid to the service panel. I am wondering as to is there such a compact plug and play device to do just that. Many thanks in advance and hope to hear your great insights... <Q> A magnetic starter switch or magnetic contactor can do what you want. <S> Most are designed for fairly heavy loads (8A and up), and they are not consumer-style plug-in devices but rather bulky boxes intended for permanently wiring. <S> There are circuit breakers with this feature that you can mount in a panel (hopefully you have a panel type that one of these can fit). <S> The on/off buttons are provided on the breaker itself and/or via a separate switch connected with its own wiring and mounted near the load (usually a machine of some sort). <S> The Fuji SC-03 is one example of such a circuit breaker: https://www.fujielectric.com/products/mc/mc_ms_tr_sc_neos.html <A> In answer to your original question, Yes there are breakers and devices that trip out breakers when the is a loss of prime power. <S> Usually they are found in larger industrial sites where large motors create voltages at loss of power or there are parallel and redundant systems. <S> They are not compact and they usually cost more than a Homeowner DIY is willing to pay. <S> Example see @John Zwinck go ahead and price his Fuji SC-03 and an Enclosure it would go in. <S> I was thinking more along the line of Bassler's relay protection or a Smart Breaker depending on use. <S> What would be the residential need for such a device? <A> I am pretty sure that some will allow setting a status on "power restored", though it may take some digging to figure that out - fortunately manuals are generally available online before buying. <S> But if you go that route, you have to be careful about what you are connecting. <S> Limitations <S> may include: Total power (actually, every switch has that limit, but it is generally far below the 15A or 20A capacity of a circuit breaker) LED/CFL/Incandescent compatibility Motor compatibility Neutral vs. ground vs. leakage current for getting power, which may affect compatibility with various devices
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Smart switches have various behaviors on power cycle.
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20 amp circuit breaker failed to trip I had an electrician install a dedicated 20 amp GFCI duplex outlet and 20 amp circuit breaker (both customer supplied) two years ago. The outlet is directly below the panel box. Just this month, I mistakenly operated a 12 amp vacuum cleaner, a 12.5 amp space heater (on max heat), a 1/2 amp fan (on max speed, an air purifier, and three LED lamps, at the same time, out of that outlet for a few minutes. That’s 26 amps, or 130% of the rated current. According to Waytek’s Table of “trip time versus percentage of rated current”, it should’ve tripped somewhere between 100 seconds (one min 40 secs) and 1000 seconds (16 mins 40 secs). That’s too big a range for me. And the chart was too hard to interpret for me. In any case, it did not trip. How long should it have taken before tripping? <Q> Infinite time. <S> It is unlikely that it was actually drawing 12 amps at that particular time. <S> If it was drawing say 8 amps, maybe the total load was closer to 22-23 amps. <S> Circuit breakers are rated for the current they will definitely allow for an unlimited period, and there is some tolerance on top of that depending on the ambient temperature (the hotter the breaker is, the lower the tolerance above labeled current will be). <S> We can assume the ambient temperature was less than 20C since you were using the space heater, and this gives roughly a 5% "bonus" to the current before the breaker trips. <S> If for some reason you want to make sure 22 amps cannot be drawn on that circuit, you should probably install a 15 amp circuit breaker instead. <S> But do make sure the power strip plugged into the outlet is rated for 20 amps as well (or that you are using two separate strips with their own 15 amp breakers). <A> I find it interesting that you looked up the breaker rating on Waytek’s Table but did not use an amp meter to verify your true amperage usage on the circuit. <S> Many appliance makers advertise the amperage or horsepower of a device because they believe it attracts buyers. <S> Yet we have constantly found that their advertising doesn't hold up. <S> Try to simulate the same conditions on that circuit with an amprobe (amp meter) attached. <S> It would be better if it is the type that records minimums, maximums, and average. <S> Good Luck and Happy Holidays <A> 15 amperes or 20 amperes on a typical circuit is not a magic critical number. <S> The wires (14 AWG or 12 AWG) can actually carry far more current. <S> The concern is heat . <S> The electrical code is based on an understanding of how much heat, for how long, actually poses a problem. <S> While you should not push the limits, an occasional overage is built in which is why the breakers are designed with these trip curves. <S> And a ground fault can be extremely dangerous, so GFCIs are designed to trip super fast. <S> All that being said, there have been some poorly designed /fraudulently approved circuit breakers that don't trip when they should. <S> If you have Federal Pacific or Zinsco, google for more details. <A> Some good points already: But significant numbers of breakers in recent production are failing to meet the standard trip on 130% of rated current. <S> The Federal stablok and their chinese knockoffs are the worst. <S> https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Circuit_Breaker_Failures.php <A> If I am correct, Waytek supplies automotive breakers. <S> Mains breakers are quite different. <S> They have a magnetic (instant) trip for extreme overloads. <S> And a thermal trip for lesser overloads. <S> The thermal trip mode is to protect the wires from melting. <S> You are stating nameplate ratings, actual performance may be less.
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If the total load was about 10-15% over the circuit breaker rating, it is expected that it would not trip. Also, thermal trip is influenced by panel temperature. Your 12 amp vacuum cleaner is probably labeled according to the maximum current it can draw (to be sure, look at its electrical specifications rather than the big marketing label some manufacturers put on the front to make the vacuum sound powerful). A short circuit is dangerous and results in an immediate trip. But since this is recent work done by an electrician and the outlet is near the breaker, it's unlikely a cause for concern. Then we have an accurate measurement of what is truly happening on the circuit and we can then compare it to the trip charts. The thermal trip must trip (eventually) at 135% of rating, in order to get a UL listing. However I suspect your actual load was somewhat shy of 26A.
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How to cut many shallow grooves on the side of a square aluminium tube? I would like to craft a slatted ventilation panel/grill like this: The frame will be made of square aluminium tubes (25 mm side, 3 mm thick). The slanting panes will be cut of 4 mm thick aluminium sheet. The main challenge here is to affix the panes to the frame in a nice, regular fashion. My intention is to cut shallow (0.5-1.0 mm deep) grooves on the tube sides, apply some metal epoxy (e.g. JB Weld) and slide the panes in the grooves: The whole point of the grooves would be to direct/hold the panes in the right position while the epoxy hardens. How do I cut the grooves? Is there some artful tool that could save me from tedious and error-prone work with a hacksaw and file? <Q> I believe this can be done in a home-shop environment using a table saw with a carbide tipped blade. <S> I cut 25 mm square aluminum tube often enough without harming the saw. <S> The swarf is a bit of a mess, as one might expect. <S> The challenge here is to properly index the cuts. <S> As you require 4 mm slots, it means two passes for each slot, along with the need to index for each individual slot. <S> The requirement for two passes would be managed by a shim on the stop block. <S> One pass for the main cut, insert the shim and make a second pass for the correct width, then relocate the stop block From Lumberjocks.com : <S> The photo represents a simple, flexible saw sled for angle cuts. <S> The indexing stop block could be attached to a longer piece of wood on the right side in the image. <S> Alternatively, one could make the right block indexed to the sled or to the hold-down clamp. <S> This isn't necessarily the only answer, and is expected to be used as a starting point for expanding one's thought process to reach the goal. <A> I would use a router with a carbide bit, a jig to hold everything steady, a pin set at a distance to index each slot. <S> The router would use a guide bushing, the jig would set the angle and length of cut and distance apart with the indexing pin. <S> The side frame material would be pierced through fully, but not cut edge to edge so as to cut into multiple pieces, but the slots stopped short to keep it all in one piece. <S> A carefully placed pilot hole will start the router bit in the material, using a plunge router to make the cuts. <S> Heat will be your enemy here. <S> you need to let the bit cut the metal without forcing it. <S> It should go pretty easy. <S> Start with material a few inches to a foot longer than you need to use as an extension to help index towards the ends. <S> Through cutting will eliminate the need to make a left and right hand piece. <S> The slats will be notched on either end, and on either corner to fit into the angled slots. <S> The notches at the corners of the slats will govern how far the sides come into its final dimension. <S> Any slight movement of the material may allow the metal to break loose of the hold that a jig has on it and throw it out with tremendous force. <A> How about a miter saw with metal abrasive blade. <S> Set the angle and one sweep could give you the depth and width and you'd be able to see what's happening. <S> Just a thought.
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I think the best approach would be to construct a sled with the required angle and create a stop-block that is secured to the angled portion of the sled with indexed holes into which you'd thread a bolt or screw for more precision. Creating a jig that will hold everything securely at the point of the cutting is crucial. Please note, and you may be aware of this already, cutting metal is a very dangerous proposition.
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How to fix stripped screw holes in drywall? (Without using drywall anchors) Where drywall anchors can't be used (for example, where only the screw holes themselves are visible through holes in a panel covering the drywall). I've seen questions covering stripped screw holes in wood, metal or plaster, but nothing specific to drywall. Does the wood glue and toothpick method work here, or is another method recommended? <Q> Drywall without anchors has very little holding power. <S> There really isn't a method to repair stripped holes in it either. <S> You could insert a toothpick in the hole and hold it in place while you screw in the screw and the screw would hold but not with any power. <S> None of these will give you any holding power. <S> Using an anchor of some sort is your best bet so you don't have to go through this again. <A> When you "strip" a drywall hole, most likely had too much weight with either A regular screw without an anchor <S> A cheap plastic "split" anchor <S> A toggle bolt (the gold standard in anchors) can work around the problems created by both by Widening the hole Straddling the hole Does the wood glue and toothpick method work here? <S> No. <S> Wood glue is designed to work by gluing wood to wood, not wood to gypsum. <S> Toothpicks work by gripping the surrounding material (wood, concrete, brick, etc). <S> Since gypsum isn't a sturdy material internally, a toothpick would simply tear open the hole more. <A> Depending on how much damage the stripping has done, you may be able to repair the hole with a plastic wall plug, and then screw into that. <S> Alternatively, drill a large enough hole through the panel+drywall to insert a spring toggle wall anchor. <A> If there is space between the drywall and you are prepared to make a larger hole in both the drywall and the item you are fixing to it you could use a spring toggle in conjunction with a penny washer.
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You could also use a larger screw which would cut into new drywall.
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Breaker tripped under no load? Came home tonight and found my hall light didn't work when I flipped the switch. Went to the panel and found the breaker had tripped. The only things on this circuit that I know of, based on what stopped working, are:- hallway light - closet light- half bath lights and fan All of these things were working this morning. I know because I used all of them. All of them were also turned off before I left. Normally, when, I've seen a breaker tripped, there's something obvious like a hair dryer, space heater, or a short or ground fault. This one is so odd because it seems to have tripped while nothing was drawing current. I have two theories: The breaker is old and beginning to fail. I've read they can start to trip at random as they wear out. This house is over 100 years old. The electrical is definitely newer than that, but I am not sure how old it is. I suspect maybe sometime in the 90s at the earliest from looking at the panel labelling. One of the switches for the listed lights shorted when I turned it off. If it was the last thing turned off, no one would have noticed anything. In this case, I suspect the closet light, as it's a pull-chain type fixture that doesn't seem well mounted. Maybe the wire shorted against the box? So, here is my biggest question: can a failing breaker trip when there is no current drawn? That is, when everything on the circuit is off? If the answer is no, the problem is definitely a short or ground fault somewhere. If it can, I suppose I can replace the breaker. I welcome the experts' advice. For the time being, I've left the breaker on the OFF position for safety. <Q> I would check that closet light in any event, inspect the wiring inside the box carefully, and re-mount the fixture so it's secure as it should be. <S> (Even if the breaker didn't trip you'd want to fix that.) <S> It's very possible there is a pinched wire, stray wire making short, or something else in there that caused a short when you pulled the chain. <S> It's more of a hazard when a breaker fails to trip than when it trips unnecessarily. <S> But it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it if it is old <S> and there's been a short. <A> Circuit breakers scan tart to nuisance trip when they have tripped and been reset many many times; the current sensing elements can develop what's called a "thermal memory", meaning they no longer return to their original state, so it takes less and less current to make them trip the next time. <S> If your breaker has not been repeatedly tripping, it's not "worn out". <S> Most likely your pull chain switch has failed and caused a short circuit. <S> There are two kinds of sensing elements in most circuit breakers, a thermal trip that responds to long term overloads that increase slowly, and an instantaneous trip that responds to immediate short circuits, i.e. not waiting for the current to build up. <A> This more of a comment than an answer, but I can't post comments because I don't have enough brownie points yet! <S> Anyway, had an identical problem at a home I used to live at. <S> First symptom was the circuit supplying the freezer in the garage kept tripping, so I thought dang, bad freezer. <S> But plugged into another circuit and it was fine, no tripping. <S> The circuit the freezer used to be plugged into kept tripping. <S> Then we lost some outlets and lights in the living room (shared wall with attached garage). <S> OK, now what!? <S> Crawled up in the attic and found the cabling where it went thru the top plate had been chewed thru my mice! <S> There was a dead one right there in the hole. <S> But it only explained part of the problem because the living room lights were on a separate circuit. <S> I pulled some outlets to do continuity checks and they failed. <S> So I pulled the sheetrock off the garage side of the shared wall and found more mice had chewed thru cables along with a large mouse nest. <S> The electrocuted bodies where still there. <S> I counted my lucky stars <S> the breakers did their job and my house didn't burn down. <S> Had to do a reasonable amount of re-wiring, <S> but again, very glad <S> I had a Square D QO panel and not Zinsco panel! <S> I share this story because it sounds similar to your problem. <S> Shorts and tripped breakers without known reasons are scary and cause for concern. <S> Good Luck. <A> With all loads turned off, reset the breaker, if the breaker holds turn on each light switch one at a time when it trips that's where to start looking. <S> I agree with the other guys <S> closest light is probably the culprit, a specialy if it's a pull chain type fixture. <S> If it's not the problem, and you don't have Ark Fault type breakers, then it's time to start searching... <S> If there are recepticals on that circuit, make sure they are properly "pigtailed" and wires are terminated by screw type connections, not back-stabbed! <S> Loose connections via back-stabbed devices are the majority of residential service calls and fires! <S> Which is why code now requires Arc-Fault type breakers. <S> Hope this helps!!!
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When switch components break off inside of old worn out fixtures, they can sometimes land in places that cause short circuits, in which case your breaker did EXACTLY what it was supposed to do, prevent a fire.
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LED bulb replacement in Dusk-Dawn Outdoor 175W light My old metal halide bulb finally died after 30 yrs use. Considering switch to LED corn bulb. However, the seller website states "Connects directly into E39 Mogul Bases. Just screw in. Please note that in some cases the ballast may have to be bypassed when changing to LEDs. Most are plug and play but please check. (LEDs uses a driver, not a ballast)". LED bulb seller's website So my question is "How do I check?". Would like to go to LED for quicker starts, BUT... not if it means headaches with a ballast. The original bulb is Philips PS Lifeguard H69KB-175 (as best I can tell... the writing is very faded after 30 yrs use.) <Q> You will need to bypass the ballast! <S> Failing to do so will fry the LED. <S> Corncob LEDs are always a bad idea. <S> They are inefficient. <S> They intentionally defeat the best characteristic of LED -- that they make a wedge of light, which is what you really want. <S> Look around at lights. <S> You have wallpack lights painting a super bright spot on the wall (useless), path lights lighting a huge circle not just the path ... <S> and oh, the skyglow ! <S> Just here at this restaurant the car dealer's halide light is blasting in the window from across the highway . <S> Meanwhile at the gas station, the canopy lights make the pump area glow pleasantly, but even the trees in front of the place are pitch black. <S> Their lights are LED and are properly aimed. <S> This saves them a fortune. <S> Cost savings is in aiming, not LED <S> Fact is, halide lights are about as efficient as LED. <S> I saw one ad claiming their 45 watt, 3300 lumen LED is more efficient that the 175 watt metal halide . <S> um... a 175W MH is 14,600 lumens. <S> It would take 4 of those corncobs to make the same light, and it's actually less efficient . <S> Your linked one is 7000 lm, half the brightness of your MH. <S> On the other hand, if you aim the LED in exactly the wedge of light that you want, you're still no more lumen efficient, but you're only paying for the lumens that are actually on target. <S> We once had seven 400W halide lights (3150W) lighting up a 400' right-of-way (and also, half the town). <S> They were on city poles, so the location was not good. <S> This was costing $1600/year. <S> I specced a mere 250W of extremely well-aimed LED spots, $125/year. <S> Anyway, for former halide lights, I just mount an aimed fixture inside the old diffuser, aimed out the hole in the bottom. <S> A tiny amount of splash light makes the diffuser glow, it looks nice. <A> The "PS" in your lamp part number means "Pulse Start", which is the way in which the Metal Halide bulb is initially excited to begin putting out light. <S> That means it most certainly has a ballast in the fixture. <S> Before you do that however, you must ensure that the line voltage feeding your ballast is the same as what your LED driver needs; the spec sheet says 100 to 277V, so that would be appropriate for a "4 tap" ballast. <S> If you have a "5 tap" ballast, the line voltage might be 480V and your LED would not work. <S> If you don't understand anything of what I just posted, you might want to hire a qualified electrician. <A> Any halide I have seen had a ballast, larger than a fluorescent ballast. <S> The simplest action is just buy a mogul socket instead of trying to figure out the wiring system of the halide . <S> I wired up a 400 W from components and it has a large metal case , but I forgot what was in it <S> but it was not just a couple wires.
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So to use your LED replacement, someone will need to remove the ballast and run the wires directly to your mogul base socket (you can leave the old ballast in place if you want to, just wire around it). If you go with a corncob LED, you won't save any money unless the LED is less bright : this is a common con-job when selling LEDs.
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What's this bolt head type and how can I open it? There is a bolt screwed inside a long hole: I don't know the bolt head type. Is there a trick to open it? <Q> It looks like a spanner tamper-proof security bolt. <S> Either buy a set of tamper-proof security bits, or modify a cheap standard slotted screwdriver with a dremel tool. <S> Here is a cheap set: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W8659-Security-32-Piece/dp/B002KS19PK/ <S> A good chance that something in this set will work, but no guarantee. <A> A flat headed screw has part of the slot filled in to make it difficult for the average joe to undo. <S> Either purchase a set of security bits or take an old screwdriver and grind out the matching part on the screwdriver blade so it fits neatly. <A> I recently found out the local name for a head like that translates to slotted flat. <S> The screwdriver fitting those heads is an H-screwdriver. <S> Look like this: <S> However, for the smaller screws (with heads up to 5-6mm), it's common to simply take an old flathead screwdriver and a hacksaw. <S> Might take a couple of minutes, but they can be made yourself quite easily. <S> The bigger the pin in the middle of the bolthead, the more work you have with the hacksaw. <S> On the really big ones, pliers could work but I wouldn't recommend it. <S> I don't see those boltheads as often as I used to (say 10-15 years ago), I think manufacturers prefer Torx nowadays in places where I used to see slotted flats. <A> That is a style of head, known of as "notched spanner", most security bit sets will have bits to fit it. <S> The bit is like a normal flatblade screwdriver but with a notch cut in the middle. <S> Unfortunately bits generally don't work on screws that are down holes, because the bit (or worse for deep holes or short bits, the combination of bit and bit holder) ends up with a diameter too large to fit down the hole. <S> I have never seen a regular screwdriver for sale with this type of head. <S> I suspect buying a cheap flatblade screwdriver and modifying <S> it is the way to go.
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It is a simple security slot headed screw.
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Can "bending" screwdrivers really apply enough torque? I was uncomfortably driving a screw to affix a ceiling lighting fixture - either with my knuckles grazing at the ceiling or angling the screwdriver and having it occasionally slip. So, somehow I got the idea to look for a slightly bending screwdriver. I'm not much of an expert so I just, well, web searched. I found a few items similar to this one: But I wonder - if you can just bend it so far with your hand - will this even carry enough torque to screw anything in? The best answer would be from someone who's had experience with these kinds of screwdrivers; otherwise - people feeling capable enough to speculate. <Q> I have had one for 45 years and have used it a lot. <S> It was part of a screwdriver/socket set I got from my little sister for Christmas. <S> The screwdriver bits are not as effective because you can't put your weight behind it and the bits have a tendency to turn out of the screw in some cramped places. <S> It works very good with the sockets because the torque is just about as good as a standard nut driver. <S> This is one of those crazy tools you have that you won't use a lot, but when you need it, you'll be glad you have it, like an offset screwdriver or the little stubby screwdriver. <A> I have often used offset screwdrivers : <A> Short answer: not really. <S> However if you get the screw in most of the way and just have to do the final tightening with a regular driver, it might be worth using. <S> With square, hex, or star drive, or sockets, you can get a decent amount of torque, but you're ultimately limited because the flex shaft absorbs some of the torque. <A> The problem with any screwdriver including your flex (radius)screw driver is that nothing really works all of the time, or better yet how it is advertised. <S> You will usually find its really a mater of space and access. <S> What I have discovered is to use the fixture disconnect we are now installing on commercial fluorescent or LED fixtures. <S> This way you install the wire on the ground and just plug it on. <S> You do have to have space for the disconnect to fit. <S> You could also use a plug-in type wire connector or a post and shovel head connector. <S> I suppose I have to quote the obvious by saying they must be properly rated. <S> Hope this helps. <S> Edited for comment - Fixture disconnect <A> The problem with any flex drive anything is that you must hold position against two things now: the handle and the head. <S> If you don't hold the head in place, it just flops right out. <S> You run out of hands in a hurry!
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With phillips or flathead tips, no; getting full torque with these depend on you pushing the tip of the driver into the screw to keep the driver tip from camming out.
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How do I replace an old ladder's anti-scratch strip? An acquaintance of mine an old aluminum ladder, sort of like this one: The ladder used to have some kind of rubbery strip at the forward edge of its top platform, to prevent it from scratching the wall when it's leaning against it. But - that strip is all worn out. My question: What should I replace it with? I mean, obviously, some other kind of rubbery strip which adheres to aluminum, but - there's lots of kind of rubbers and adhesive strips. Is there some combination of materials, or category of these things which I should look for? Also - should I look for something which comes with adhesive, or should I use use my own glue/bonding agent to attach the strip to the ladder? <Q> I would use a strip of UHMW plastic it won’t wear out and can be held in with counter sunk screws <S> I have 2 strips of this plastic on the bunks for my boat and over 25 years of use <S> they still look great, no marking on the boat hull. <S> I would not use a self adhesive strip as with pressure they can move and that would not be good in this case. <A> Allow it to dry until it is not sticky to touch. <S> Now align carefully and press the glued surfaces together. <S> The bond is instant and not movable <S> so get it positioned right before allowing contact. <A> Any scrap felt or carpet should work as a cushion for when you are storing your folding step ladder. <S> You don't need anything for when you are using it because YOU SHOULD NEVER LEAN A FOLDED STEP LADDER AGAINST SOMETHING <S> THEN CLIMB IT :
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I use a scrap of unbound carpet like the marine carpet found at big box stores Cut a strip to size needed and use a contact type adhesive like Follow directions that say apply to both the rug scrap and the ladder with a cheap paint brush.
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Should my carbon monoxide detector be reporting zero PPM? I've got a Carbon monoxide detector hanging in my kitchen for a few years now. Lately I've noticed it reads a PPM of 0 (zero). Is this right? Doesn't the air contains around 400 ppm? In other words, is my detector even working? I'm getting the feeling I should throw it out. <Q> No, 400 ppm is NOT a safe level. <S> Here is the US Govt. <S> CPSC information on CO: CPSC CO Information <S> To quote the relevant part: What CO level is dangerous to my health? <S> The health effects of COdepend on the CO concentration and length of exposure, as well as eachindividual's health condition. <S> CO concentration is measured in partsper million (ppm). <S> Most people will not experience any symptoms fromprolonged exposure to CO levels of approximately 1 to 70 ppm but someheart patients might experience an increase in chest pain. <S> As COlevels increase and remain above 70 ppm, symptoms become morenoticeable and can include headache, fatigue and nausea. <S> At sustainedCO concentrations above 150 to 200 ppm, disorientation,unconsciousness, and death are possible. <A> I think it's a legitimate concern. <S> If something is important, it's important to test that thing. <S> The self-test button is better than nothing, but it does nothing to test the sensor, it is a self test of the electronics. <S> (And in general you can never really trust a self-testing device - <S> if device has failed or is defective, how do you know the failure or defect doesn't affect the self-test?) <S> Obviously not a great test <S> but it might at least show that the detector sees something. <S> Doing any better gets complicated. <S> To test the ppm level display on the alarm's LED readout, you'd have to expose it to CO in a controlled environment and compare the alarm's readout to a calibrated CO meter. <S> That's going to be well beyond DIY. <A> Yes, zero ppm CO is quite possible, especially if your home is very drafty or has decent ventilation. <S> If I remember correctly, anything over 30 ppm CO calls for evacuating the occupants to fresh air. <S> If you question your CO reading contact your local fire department or someplace that services smoke alarms and fire extinguishers. <S> My local FD responds to possible CO/CO2/natural gas calls in case oxygen is needed and carries a meter on their truck. <S> The FD and smoke/fire equipment places were able to either test the equipment or help me narrow such a search. <A> Reading zero should be normal. <S> If you can carry it to the right authority they might be able to test it, or tell you when is a good time to test everyone's at the same time.
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You can do a crude test by making some smoke with an incense stick or a cigarette or something and flooding the sensor with smoke. As stated in @jwh20 's answer, the question is incorrect - 400ppm isn't a commonly occurring level - but it's a great question in that it brings up testing your alarm.
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Can I install heat mat and backer board over cork flooring? I am installing a new bathroom floor. I plan on getting an electric underfloor heating mat, 2 backer boards for under the heating, screed the mat and tile over this. My question is can I place the back boards on the cork vinyl(even though it's got glue on top) or do I need to remove the cork. Another option is cleaning the glue off the cork and using the cork as the subfloor. Is this possible? Thanks for the help, first timer here. <Q> When I am redoing a bathroom and adding the needed backer board to a subfloor assembly, I would remove all existing finish floors no matter how many to get back down to the original subfloor. <S> Then evaluate that, repair it if needed, add to it if needed to make it stiff enough for tile, then add the one layer of 1/4" backer board, then the heating wires, screed, then thinset and tile. <A> I've never had to do this (install tile over cork), but I think you need to remove the cork. <S> Backer/cement boards needs to be firmly fastened to the sub-floor. <S> Any kind of softness, give, or "springiness" will be transferred up the tiles and will cause the tiles or the tile joints to crack. <A> If you read James Hardie installation you need to thinset the board down with modified thinset so over cork no don't do it <A> You can check with the heating mat manufacture to determine if the cork is a suitable subfloor. <S> It's too soft. <S> The target finished height of the floor is a key consideration. <S> If you install materials over the top of the existing floor, the new floor level will be higher. <S> That can be awkward, especially in a bathroom. <S> To stay at the current floor height, you need to remove something before adding something. <A> Do not ever tile over cork. <S> Unless you poor a 5ft thick layer of concrete over it 1st.
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All these layers together will add up to a reasonably thick floor, if the all original flooring is not removed, you will have a potentially sizable rise in height from one floor to another But I don't think that cork is a good underlay for tile. Then it might work.
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How should I eliminate an unused switch in a two gang box? Florida, USA We bought a house with five ceiling fans, each with a light fixture installed. Each fan is controlled by a pair of wall switches in a two-gang box, one for the fan motor and one for the light housing. Simple enough. We are replacing the fans with models that do not have lighting kits. My wife desires fans without lighting kits. What's the best way to handle the wall switches and lighting kit wiring? <Q> Hold on. <S> You can't just eliminate lights <S> You may notice that in almost any room you go into, anywhere, you have an intuition as to where to reach for the light switch. <S> The light switch is in an expected location . <S> That's not by accident. <S> That's established in the Building Codes. <S> It is mandatory. <S> It also comes up in NEC Section 210.70(A)(1), which provides rules on dwelling unit lights and switches. <S> source <S> So as you eliminate light switches, you must make sure you don't eliminate the legally required ones. <S> "But we're not moles, of course there will be light, you'll just have to know the secret way to turn it on". <S> Nope. <S> Nope. <S> Secret ways are not allowed. <S> They may work for you, but won't work for guests, particularly First Responders. <S> If in doubt, post a room layout drawing here showing lights and switches. <S> How to do it <S> In normal 1-way switches, they have 2 switch terminals. <S> That is all. <S> If there are 2+ wires going to the same terminal, I recommend doing something to indicate to the next person how this was wired; e.g. Mark the solo with red tape (if it's the switched-hot), or bundling the group with tape. <S> Then, simply join all wires with a wire nut. <S> Then, fit appropriate cover plates, as discussed elsewhere. <S> They also make little "switch plugs" that bolt up like a normal switch, but have no wires and simply a rectangular plug that fills the hole. <S> This allows <S> "the next person" to easily reactivate that feature if they find it useful, or if you're selling and your inspector catches a missing mandatory switch. <A> You have a few options... <S> Cap <S> the extra wires in the ceiling box and do nothing else. <S> Cap <S> the unused wires in both boxes and install a single-sided cover plate. <S> Remove the switch box, install a deep single-gang box, cap the wires in both boxes, and repair the drywall. <S> Whether you can do this option depends on how many cables come into the box, as fill rules may prohibit using a single gang box. <A> Replacing the box and patching drywall, etc. is a lot of work. <S> The trick is that the wiring can vary a bit. <S> The typical configuration will either be: <S> Hot/Neutral into switch box, hot connected to both switches, neutral passes through Neutral/Switched Hot Fan/Switched Hot Light <S> goes from switch box to fan/light. <S> One Switched Hot connected to each switch. <S> At fan/light, one switched hot to each device and either neutral pigtailed to both fan & light or neutral to the one-and-only neutral connection on the fan/light <S> In that situation, you will have a Switched Hot to cap on both ends and at the switched <S> you need to handle the "2nd switch Hot" correctly. <S> If there is a pigtail currently for "Hot -> Both Switches" then remove the pigtail and connect the Hot directly to the remaining switch. <S> If the hot chains from one switch to another (two wires under one screw or looping around a screw and continuing to the other switch), make sure you handle it correctly - i.e., no loose extra wires or bare wire (except ground, of course). <S> or it may be: <S> Hot/Neutral into fan. <S> Neutral connects to fan/light, hot passes through. <S> Hot/Switched Hot Fan/Switched Hot Light goes from fan/light to switch box. <S> At fan/light, one switched hot to each device. <S> In switch box, one Switched Hot to each switch, Hot to both switches. <S> If this is a recent installation, you may find neutral passed from the fan/light down to the switch box and capped in the switch box as it is only needed for timers/motion sensors/etc. <S> and not with simple switches. <S> Of course, if you really can't stand the sight of a blank plate where there "should" be a switch, you can: <S> Install a convenience receptacle (only works if there is neutral in the box) <S> - commonly found next to switches in bathrooms but no reason you can't have them anywhere or Disconnect the wires from the switch and cap them and leave the switch in place to add confusion. <S> or Connect a siren to the wires in the ceiling in place of the light. <S> Tape a note over the switch that says "Important: Do NOT turn on this switch". <S> Install a webcam to catch the reaction each time someone gets a little too curious!
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So the usual answer is: Cap the "extra" wire on both ends Install a single switch + blank plate :
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How do I know if this switch box has a neutral wire? This outlet is two rocker switches. Left controls my bathroom light (4), right controls my bathroom fan (3). I am trying to install a timer switch so the fan is only on for ~30 min at a time. The instructions insist a neutral wire is connected to the switch. My house was built in the late 60s. Many of the wires have paint on them which makes things difficult. The wire nut under (1) contains wires which come from the wall and don't connect to the existing switches. They are an egg-cream color which I believe is white + age. All the other white looking wires are black wires that have paint on them. I think what's going on with the wire nut in 2 is that the hot line from the wall is joined with two other small wires, one for each switch. My thought is that (1) is the neutral wire, and I should undo the existing wire nut, add an additional wire which will goto my new switch as a neutral, then wire nut them all together. Is that correct? Is there anything else I can do to verify this? What's the risk if I'm wrong? (note 3 is the actual timer switch, once I realized I didn't know what the neutral was I took the pictures and then put it back how it started) (edit: additional note, this bathroom has a small room for shower/toilet, where this picture is, connected to the area with two sinks... basically the other side of the wall in the same position is a gfci outlet by the sink) <Q> Naturally, you want to shut off the breaker before doing any work. <S> You're going to have to be careful arranging the existing wires so you can get the new timer switch into the box, and even then, you might need to add a box extender. <A> They also make timers that don't use neutral wires. <S> Same company, same shelf. <S> They wire up exactly like your old switch, and are guaranteed to work anywhere a plain switch works. <S> These have a dial you twist and set to the exact time you want, and a spring and clockwork mechanism makes them unwind. <S> They come in any range from 5 minutes to 12 hours, with or without a "stay on indefinitely" position. <S> (At the lodge I use the ones without the "stay on" function, because the point is to stop people from leaving things turned on.) <A> Check if a blue wire (CENELEC) or white wire (NEC). <S> Be carefull to identify "switch loops" those may have a neutral-colored wire actually used for live. <S> A simple contact test-light will tell you if a wire is live or not, switched loops go from 0 to live potential after switch is operated, so testlight is off if switch is off and on if switch is on. <A> So the only reason there would be a neutral present would be if the circuit fed through the box. <S> From what we can see of the box, it appears that the lighting circuits are fed to the light fixture first and the a line leg is sent down to the box and a switch leg is fed back to control the light. <S> Since most NM comes with a white and a black conductor, white does not always indicate a neutral. <S> The bundle wires you have labeled 1, have a green wire nut on them. <S> That would indicate that they are a ground. <S> Then again it could be the neutrals with an incorrect wirenut on them. <S> So unless you can use a voltmeter to find 120V power between a line side conductor and another conductor other than the ground wires or verify that the #1 bundle are the neutrals. <S> Good luck <A> There are only a few ways this can go <S> There are only four ways switches ever get wired: Power-to-the-switch, where always-hot and neutral are brought to the switch location, the switch breaks the hot, then switched-hot and neutral are brought from the switch location to the outlet location An "old-style" switch loop , where always-hot and neutral are brought to the switched outlet, with neutral terminating there, but always-hot carrying on in another cable to the switch location, which breaks hot, leaving the switched-hot to run back with the always-hot from the switch to the outlet A "new-style" switch-loop, which works as before, save for the fact that neutral is run on from the switched outlet to the switch location and capped off at the switch (since a Plain Old Light Switch has no use for neutral, but fancy doodads like dimmers, timers, wifi/... <S> switches, and occupancy sensors can make productive use of it) Or a traveller spur , where either always-hot or switched-hot and the travelers of a 3-way setup (with multiple switches controlling the light) are brought from one 3-way location out to the other, instead of having always-hot come in one end of the 3-way and switched-hot come out the other <S> Since this is a single-pole situation (only one switch controls the fan in question), we can rule out #4. <S> #3 can be ruled out by the lack of any wire colors other than white or black in the box, given that the wiring is done using cables, with their fixed internal color scheme (instead of individual wires in conduit, where one has the power of the rainbow at their disposal). <S> We then rule out #2 in your situation because that requires a white wire to be attached to a hot terminal on a switch, and that's not the case; instead, all the white wires run into a bundle (nut 1), alongside a bunch of bundled black wires (nut 2) (although they're partly masked by white paint/drywall-compound splatter), which means we have case 1, and the bundled white wires must be the neutrals. <S> So, you can add your new timer's neutral to the existing bundle, alongside all the existing wires. <S> Note that you may need to upsize to a larger wirenut to do this if the existing wirenut is too small for the new bundle of wires.
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You can identify those by checking if a live wire is enetering the switch and a neutral colored wire is coming out of it. I would guess that there is no neutral in the box. Yes, #1 is your group of neutrals and you would need to pigtail into that connector with a piece #14. I believe that up until the NEC 2017 version, neutral conductors were not required in a box with switches in it.
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Why does my old table saw power switch cut both hot and neutral? I am refurbishing an old Craftsman 10" table saw that has been collecting dust in the back of my shop for years. I don't remember exactly how I acquired it, but to my recollection the one time I tried to start it sparks flew from the on/off switch. The switch controls an integrated 110vt receptacle which the motor plugs into. All is factory original. I tested the motor by plugging the motor power cord directly into a wall receptacle and it runs fine. I would like to resume using the factory On/Off switch (because it is a safety switch- pull On, push Off) but wanted to check it first. Opening the switch box I discover that the switch is double-pole, i.e. opens and closes both the hot and neutral wires that lead to the motor receptacle. why did the manufacturer install a switch that opens/closes both the neutral and hot? can I safely use the switch to only open/close the hot (the neutral side is dead/open)? I can wire the neutral to bypass the switch... <Q> The technique is called double-switching . <S> It is permitted by this exception in NEC 404.2(B) : <S> 404.2(B) <S> Grounded Conductors . <S> Switches or circuit breakers shall not disconnect the grounded conductor of a circuit. <S> Exception : A switch or circuit breaker shall be permitted to disconnect a grounded circuit conductor where all circuit conductors are disconnected simultaneously, or where the device is arranged so that the grounded conductor cannot be disconnected until all the ungrounded conductors of the circuit have been disconnected. <A> Probable reason: they made ONE saw assembly and used a motor that could be configured as 110 or 220. <S> For 220 you would break both lines, for 110 you don't need to, but there is nothing saying you can't (so long as your switch breaks both lines together), so it's just easier to have everything the same. <A> I don't think anyone can answer why that it a double pole switch or how the saw was originally wired. <S> You can remove the neutral wires from the switch and connect them together. <S> Make sure you carry the neutral integrity to the power source so you don't end up switching hot. <S> Also, did you determine why you had sparks flying when you tried turning it on before? <S> Check that on-off switch thoroughly. <A> My understanding is that should a short happen down stream of the motor on either side, the safety switch cuts both sides because you are dealing with 110v AC here. <S> If there was a short to ground anywhere, the motor could still spin (at half speed) due the fact that AC alternates directions with every cycle. <S> Breaking both poles at the same time means that no electricity can flow in either direction. <A> Does the cord have a grounded plug (3 prong?) or 2 prong? <S> If 2 prong is it polarized (one prong slightly wider than the other, which is the neutral prong). <S> If the saw is old enough not to be grounded, nor have a polarized plug, it's really important to have a double disconnect if the saw in plugged in backwards, very easy and "normal" to do if not grounded or polarized. <S> So I agree with the post above, that if the saw is plugged in backwards, with a single pole switch, you'd be cutting off the neutral, rather than the hot, which is NEVER a good idea. <S> Note that the Neutral is at ground potential, meaning there should be no voltage between the neutral and ground under normal operating conditions. <S> If I were rebuilding the saw, given it's age, I'd replace the cord with a 3 wire cord with a grounded plug (you can buy those with the plug pre-wired at Home Depot or Lowes, replace the switch with another double pole switch and attached the ground (green) wire to someplace metal on the frame for proper grounding. <S> Be sure to pay attention to the amperage draw of the motor and that your wire and switch are of the proper size. <S> You should be able to find that on the nameplate on the motor. <S> Not knowing that right now, I'd suggest at least 14ga wire and 15-20 amp double pole switch. <S> It wouldn't hurt to go to 12ga wire which is rated at 20 amps (might be hard to find pre-wired, might have to buy your own plug). <S> Hope <S> this helps. <A> Table saws, can remove a lot of material very quickly. <S> This makes them very effective but it also makes them very dangerous. <S> That is the whole reason your manufacturer used a special switch in the first place. <S> A double pole switch considerably reduces the chance of the motor turning on unexpectedly due to a fault in either the switch or the wiring. <S> This is not the place to cheap out, trying to make a faulty original switch work by bypassing one side of it or fitting an inappropriate modern switch. <S> Fit a modern switch designed for the purpose. <S> Preferably one with "no volt release", so the saw doesn't start up unexpectedly after power is lost and restored. <A> A table saw motor contains components like capacitors and will switch into generator mode when unpowered. <S> That can leave enough voltage while the saw runs out to cause twitching or flailing, and the vicinity of a rotating table saw blade is a bad location for twitching or flailing. <S> Without a neutral to base that voltage off, it's a lot harder to get that voltage to cause damage as you'd need to touch two rather than one conductor. <S> There is a reason table saws usually have double interruptors, and it's not a good place to try trading safety against a few dollars.
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According to this article , on AC equipment the technique is used to avoid dangerous conditions when hot and neutral are reversed, as often happens with outlets that have been improperly wired.
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Tabletop saw stops midway through chipboard I am new to woodworking and I tried my ''new'' secondhand table saw (General LR63420 Model D) today. It cut through the first few chipboard boards just fine but then had a lot of trouble going through the middle of a 4 x 8 chipboard board. I am pretty sure I did not squeeze the blade so I am wondering whether it could be a belt or blade issue. What should I look for/change first? <Q> Examine the blade disk to see if it has become gummy or coated with resin. <S> You may have to remove the blade and scrub it clean. <S> The teeth of a saw are bent slightly to the side (usually every other tooth to each side) to make the cut wider than the saw blade. <S> Sometimes a saw blade can seem sharp but the projections formed by the bent teeth are worn down, making the cut too narrow. <A> There could be several issues that cause the blade other than a dull blade, you have hit on squeezing the blade with the rip fence and chip board will get chewed up a little even with some squeeze, since it’s not that a loose belt is another possibility and the last thing I have seen a few times is the pulley on the motor shaft or the saw arbor is loose, sometimes there is a key or a small square metal piece in the pulley to shaft connection that is normally held in place with a set screw through the pulley, <S> if no key there will be a flat spot on the motor and arbor shafts that a set screw keeps the pulley from spinning on the shaft. <S> If the pulley has been spinning it may have done a little damage to the shaft, you may need to adjust the pulleys in or out if the flat was damaged severely but once tight and inline with the other pulley even a badly damaged shaft will work because it is a belt drive. <S> My son had the blade slowing down and tightened the belt so tight I was amazed it could slip or did not break the belt. <S> Once we tightened the set screw his saw worked fine. <S> So I would be looking at a missing key and or a loose set screw if the belt is tight. <A> What is the horse power of the motor? <S> What is the rating of the circuit breaker? <S> Are you running on an extension cord? <S> Circuit breakers can take some time to trip if the overload is small. <S> As the motor slows, it draws more current. <S> If a saw has been moved, it may no longer be in alignment. <S> Using a vernier caliper check that the blade is parallel to the miter slots. <S> To do this, mark a tooth with a felt pen. <S> Put the tooth just above the center plate on the leading edge, then repeat using the same tooth at the trailing edge. <S> The numbers should be the same to within a few thousands of an inch. <S> Next, check that the fence is parallel to the miter slots. <S> This is easier. <S> Slide <S> the fence adjacent to the miter slot and lock it. <S> Again, it should be parallel to a few thousands. <S> That saw, I think is a cabinet saw, with the saw mounted on the base. <S> Adjustment is usually done by loosening the bolts that secure the top to the base. <S> Should say in the manual if that came with the saw. <S> If not, google it. <S> In passing: Chipboard is hard on blades. <S> I buy Freude 7.25" circular saw blades on sale for rough work. <S> As a smaller diameter, there is more torque and the saw bogs down less. <S> It's also a thinner kerf. <S> Finally, if you do bind the blade, stuff coming at you is only moving 45 mph instead of 70. <A> It turns out it was a combination of the 2 following issues : <S> Underfed saw <S> : My extension cord did not transfer 240V <S> but 120V <S> only Old blade <S> : Blade was pretty worn out
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If the saw is not new the blade may be quite worn and need replacement.
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Can I extend a 220 V line? I have a 220 V line in my kitchen for an oven. We are remodeling the kitchen and moving the oven and, thus, need to move the 220 V outlet. Can I extend the line by joining cables in a junction box and moving the outlet where it needs to be? Can I just have a long cord (6–10 feet) from the oven to the original location of the outlet? Here is a photo of what my outlet currently looks like Here is the inside: It may be hard to see, but there are only three wires, no ground. Here is another picture of the inside of the box. You can’t see very well outside of the box. There is a ground wire attached to the metal box. There is no conduit. There should be something (I don’t know what it’s called) that clamps the wires as they come into the box, but there isn’t. <Q> You need a 4-wire range connection. <S> Since this is a remodel, you must upgrade this circuit to a 4-wire connection. <S> That "NEMA 10-50" 3-wire connection is obsolete, illegal and dangerous. <S> If there is metal conduit, or a separate ground wire hidden back there, then you have the necessary grounds present, and extending is a possibility. <S> Otherwise, forget about it; you'll need a home run back to the panel as part of the remodel. <S> I recommend running 6/3 cable unless you are in conduit, then #8 will suffice. <S> Ranges and dryers can be easily converted from one to the other, but you must follow the instructions (available on the web) to properly remove the neutral-ground internal jumper. <S> Splicing is tricky, though. <S> You can't bury the junction box . <S> Obviously the temptation is to seal up the steel box and bury it behind trim or whatever. <S> Can't do it, not allowed. <S> (other than the two screws holding on the box cover itself, obviously). <S> However, you can make the junction box be dual-purpose . <S> It looks and acts like an ordinary countertop recep, nothing special. <S> But if the receps are removed, there isthe oven splice lurking behind, still full accessible. <S> Remember in any splice, the wires must be long enough to a) come out 6" beyond the clamp, and b) come out 3" beyond the surface of the wall. <S> That would require 8-9" in a large box like I describe. <A> Pay special attention to NEC 210.50(C) <S> Appliance Receptacle Outlets. <S> Appliance Receptacle Outlets...shall be installed within 1.8m (6 ft) of the intended location of the appliance. <S> Also check with the Installation Instructions of the range to see if it specifies receptacle location or cord length. <S> Lab Listing (UL,CSA) is only valid when installed or used as instructed in the Installation Instructions. <S> An installation permit or pre-sale inspection could trip you up. <S> If you can get within 6ft. and comply with the UL approved location you would need to install a permanent breaker lock out device in your electrical panel to comply with NEC 422.30 since the installation wouldn't satisfy 422.33 that allows a receptacle accessible through the drawer to satisfy the required disconnecting means. <A> You'll have to pull the box out and rearrange things <S> While it sounds like you have all the correct wires available to extend this on as a four-wire connection to your new range location, your last installer forgot the clamp for connecting the cable to the box, and also made the ground connection outside the box, which isn't right either. <S> So, you'll have to carefully remove the box, get a suitable box (I'd recommend a big box such as a 4-11/16" or even a 5" square for this since it's going to get blanked anwyay), get a cable clamp that can handle a 6/3 with ground SER (not just NM) cable in a 3/4" KO, and refit the box with the cable properly locked in the clamp (the cable jacket needs to extend 1/4" past the inside of the cable clamp) and the box grounded on the inside using a 10AWG solid pigtail to a 10-32 grounding screw in the tapped hole on the back of the box, then nutted to the existing grounding wire. <S> From there, since you have all four wires, you can extend it to the new location with the largest wirenuts you can get (rated for 2×6AWG), a length of 6/3 W/G NM cable, and a 3/4" NM clamp (you can use the plastic button-style for this side). <S> Of course, you'll need a box (and another 3/4" NM clamp, if your box has knockouts in it) at the new location as well, as well as a similar grounding arrangement as the replacement box if you're using a metal box for the new box. <S> Note that you'll need to fit a proper NEMA 14-50R (instead of the existing NEMA 10-50R) for the new receptacle and change the oven over to a four-prong range cord from the three-prong cord it was using as part of this work, too.
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You should splice it in a box and extend to floor level behind range. Part of this will be converting the range to a 4-wire plug. Leaving that on would be bad. The junction box cover must be accessible without the use of any tools . For instance, the best way to conceal such a junction box is to use a large, deep 4-11/16" square metal box (which you need for the cubic inches), then stick a 2-gang "mud ring" on it, then stick plain 120V receptacles or switches there, fed by totally separate 120V / #12 wires.
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Can you have neutrals on ground bar only bonded through main panel body I have just added a circuit to my main panel and saw something I wanted clarification on. For reference, my main panel is a Homeline 30 space panel with 2 extra grounding bars on the sides. Picture for reference. I know that in a main panel, you can have grounds and neutrals on the same bar, since they are bonded together at the main anyway. But doesn't that only pertain to the 2 inner neutral/ground bars, the ones that have the bonding screw. I found several neutral wires on the grounding bars on that are near the edges of the panel. From my understanding, wouldn't that be against code since the panel body is now carrying the return current for those particular circuits. In other words, should those 2 outer bars ONLY have grounding wires on them, while the 2 inner bars can have ground AND neutral wires. Thanks for any input. <Q> It may sound funny but it is ok and even required in a way <S> your neutral and ground being on the same bar is fine but look closer and you will see a jumper to ground (the panel is required to be grounded, your grounded and grounding conductors are tied together and then to the case <S> so it is functionally the same on separate bars that are bonded and connected to the case. <A> You're absolutely right that a best practice is to separate neutrals and grounds. <S> There are a bunch of reasons, but I'll give you one <S> : you can replace your neutral-ground bonding screw with a bonding wire , and then stick a clamp ammeter around it. <S> Voilà , ground faults are revealed! <S> However, this best-practice is not a Code requirement and you can't be written up for doing it the lazy way... in a main panel . <S> This variation on Code was put there under pressure from builders, who didn't want to spring for panels with accessory ground bars. <S> They said "it's all the same anyway, inside the main panel , and NFPA said "Alright, not worth fighting over". <A> Although it's OK to run the grounds to the neutral buss bar, I prefer to keep them separated. <S> Also, note that on a SUB-panel, it's imperative the neutrals and grounds are separated and the neutral is NOT bonded to the enclosure. <S> Instead, you need to feed a sub-panel with a 4 wire setup: 2 hots, a neutral and ground wires. <A> I think an inspector could call out NEC 200.2(B) Continuity. <S> The continuity of a grounded circuit conductor shall not depend on a connection to a metal enclosure, raceway, or cable armor.
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It's not a good idea to run the neutrals to the enclosure attached ground bars for reasons other have mentioned.
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What is the most efficient method for heating of rooms on working days? It is to decide between two possibilities for heating of rooms during the absence in the building: heating constantly to 20 °C (68 °F) or heating 1 hour before coming home with 25 °C (77 °F) with the same effect that the room temperature is 20 °C (68 °F) at 5 p.m. The following conditions has the example: No people are at home 9 hours in the time between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. The outside temperature is 0 °C (32 °F). The normal inside temperature shall be 22 °C (72 °F). The building has a medium insulation, so that the room temperature decrease from 22 °C (72 °F) to 18 °C (65 °F) after 4 hours. Which method of heating is the best to achieve low energy costs? <Q> This theory was proven by tests of Twin Homes by The Canadian Centre for Housing Technology. <S> Several papers have been written about studies at these homes, here is a rather thorough one https://www.healthyheating.com/downloads/Thermostats/nrcc48361.pdf <A> Keeping an unoccupied building heated or cooled is always wasteful, unless you're up against some sort of environmental boogeyman like pipe freeze or condensation. <S> The idea that "it costs more to cool it down/reboot/etc." is pure bunk . <S> It does not take a half gallon of fuel to start an engine. <S> PC's do not surge 5000 amps during the 30 seconds of startup. <S> Nor do fluorescent lights, though there's a nugget of truth here: every startup ages the tube slightly (The $2 tube. <S> You can greatly improve this by spending $4 premium on a programmed-start ballast , or just go LED.) <S> A/C runs continuously for awhile when you start it back up, but the savings from when it was not running is huge. <S> Ditto heat. <S> There is nothing magical about "1 hour". <S> If, based on conditions, it will take 40 minutes to do that, then it should start 0:40 before. <S> If it'll take 1:30, start 1:30 before. <S> Smart 'stats like the Nest are good at this; they base it on learned experience and indoor/outdoor ambient temperature differences. <S> "But wait, I don't remember fitting and cabling up an exterior thermostat on my Nest!" <S> No, the Nest got the outside temp by saying "Hey Google, I'm at zip 60061. <S> What's my outdoor temp? <S> " <S> That's why a Nest needs the Internet. <S> On a thermostat, never overshoot the temperature and come back down. <S> What you're trying to do is kick the furnace into overload to make it get hot faster. <S> Furnaces don't work like that; they only have "on" or "off", 0% or 100% (a few have intermediate settings, but all furnaces understand when the temp is -5 of target, go 100%. <S> The only thing you could possibly accomplish is, on a heat pump system, get the system to run the primary and emergency heat at the same time, and that is uneconomical. <S> The primary heat will get there in a reasonable time. <A> I've been involved with many efficiency studies about this during my years with the power company. <S> All of them came up with the same results, more efficient to start heating/cooling one hour before coming home. <S> In all cases, the units ran more when set to heat/cool all day. <S> It was even more efficient if the first one home turned on the unit. <S> This wasn't the results the power company wanted because it caused peak generating demands in the evenings. <A> The amount of time it takes to raise the temperature depends not only on the inside and outside temepratures, but also the wind, rain or snow, even humidity makes a difference. <S> I would not overcomplicate this. <S> I would just set the programmable thermostat to say 60* while the house is empty, and raise it to 72* an hour before you get home. <S> The heat will run full bore for an hour which should be enough to get it reasonably comfortable. <S> Experiment from there. <S> Setting the thermostat higher does not make sense. <S> When the thermostat calls for heat, the heat runs full bore until the desired temperature is reached, then it stops. <S> (It can be a little more complicated with two stage etc. <S> but that's the basic idea.) <S> So if it's not up to 72 (or close) <S> when you get home, and you're uncomfortable, switch over a little earlier.
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The house should reach target temperature the moment you walk in the door, and not one minute sooner . The engineering theory is that a greater differential in temperature causes a faster loss of energy, so maintaining a constant temperature is more costly.
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Is having all locks with the same key a bad idea? My partner and I have recently bought a house. I'm going to get new door lock cylinders for the front and back door. I'm not sure whether to get them keyed alike. Is it a bad idea to get them so that they use the same key? <Q> If you lose the keys, or need to give them to someone who you later come to distrust, or post a picture of them on the internet <S> then you'll need to change both locks instead of just one. <S> If this is just two doors, then it's not really a big deal - slightly more inconvenient if things go wrong weighed against slightly more convenience in everyday life. <S> (Note that a 'lost keys' insurance policy may not pay out to have both locks changed if you lose the keys - it's a conversation you'd need to have with the insurer prior to purchasing the policy.) <A> If they are just standard doorknob entry sets, I see no reason to key them differently. <S> If you add deadbolts, then those should have different keys. <S> I have often encouraged people to install a deadbolt without a key for additional inside protection but maybe not a good idea if you have small children or a spouse/partner who gets mad easily. <A> You have the "master key" which works every lock in the house. <S> Then you have the "contractor key" which only works certain doorknobs (but not the deadbolt there). <S> The special-pin method (sacrifices 1-3 bits of entropy) <S> Mechanically, this is done one of two ways: <S> Either fitting a double pin for one of the 5-7 pins, or simply removing that pin altogether. <S> The doorknob locks get a key that accepts either depth 2 or depth 7 on pin 6; or that doesn't check pin 6 at all. <S> (the deadbolt locks require depth 7). <S> You give the contractor a key with a cut of depth 2. <S> Works in the doorknob, not the deadbolt. <S> The non-duplicatable key method <S> The words "Do Not Duplicate" stamped on a key mean nothing. <S> The key-duplicating robot at Lowes is illiterate. <S> (I mean the actual robot, no judgment on any human clerk). <S> However, un-duplicate-able keys are a thing . <S> Since you're going to a real locksmith, you can "nip the key-duplication issue in the bud", by using a non-duplicatable key system like Primus or Medeco. <S> These keys have a second cut that can only practically be made at the factory. <S> src <S> The primary cut can be applied by any locksmith in the normal way. <S> But the controlled second-cut is assigned to the locksmith. <S> Your secondary cut will be shared with your locksmith's other customers of that system. <S> I like using locksmiths 50 miles away, for that reason :) <S> But no one could duplicate your key unless they stole a key from one of your locksmith's other customers, and then modified it with brazing to add material to re-cut it to your pattern. <S> Not gonna happen . <S> I recently did a Medeco system and it was priced at $120 per core, though we opted for "figure 8" field-replaceable cores. <S> Our Class II (but good Class II) hardware was $200 per knobset and $80 per deadbolt set and $60 per padlock, but you can get any figure-8 hardware; the magic is in the cores. <A> How handy are you? <S> On this forum, I assume that you know which end of the screw driver to grab. <S> The big difference is the hassle of re-keying multiple locks if you want to deny a keyholder access. <S> Getting a lock rekeyed is straight forward. <S> You don't even have to have the lock smith come to your house. <S> Remove the locks, take them in, and a decent smith can do it in a few mintutes each. <S> At one point our local hardware store could do it, and charged about twice what cutting a key cost. <S> You only need to change one pin, and if you change it to a longer pin (shorter tooth on the key) you can regrind your existing keys. <S> If you live alone, make two trips, one with the latchsets and one with the deadbolts.
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Since you're dealing with a real locksmith , it's a simple matter to have 2 tiers of key.
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Should lintels above wall portals be considered for smoke alarm placement? I need to place a smoke alarm on my first floor (no sleeping areas). There is a wall portal with a 15" lintel (see image) between the living room and the dining room. I am unsure whether one alarm is adequate for both of these areas. My understanding is that smoke in either of these areas would tend to hug the ceiling and therefore, I would think that there would have to be a lot of smoke before it would begin to dip below the lintel into the other area. Assuming only one alarm in either area, my concern is that this could significantly delay the alarm. So, I wonder if the right solution is to install an alarm in each of these areas. In the event of a fire, would enough smoke be in the air to trigger an alarm in either area or would the lintel tend to localize the smoke to one area and thus delay the alarm? <Q> Which, may not involve this lintel nor these rooms. <S> An abundance of appliances is always your biggest culprit indicator, not that a TV or outlet's wiring could be faulty... though they would've typically revealed themselves with early symptoms. <S> I would suggest either a ceiling placement of the detector or a high wall placement that results in the detector being very close to the crown molding. <S> The ceiling will fill with smoke long before it escapes beneath the lintel/header/apron. <A> The Code (See ICC R314) requires a smoke alarm located: <S> In each sleeping room. <S> Outside each sleeping room area in the immediate vicinity of the bedrooms. <S> On each additional story, including a basement, but not uninhabited attics and crawl spaces. <S> Also, when one alarm is activated, the others shall sound an alarm. <S> However, in remodel and retrofit projects, this requirement is not required. <S> In general, the detector shall be located at the highest point in the room or within 12” of the highest point. <S> If your lintel is 15” deep, you can see that an additional detector would certainly help. <S> Remember, detectors are installed for “early detection”. <S> Anything you can do to assist that early detection will help. <S> (How about carbon monoxide detector?) <A> Where would a potential smoke source be coming from? <S> The direction of the Dining Room or the Living Room? <A> Quoting https://www.nfpa.org/News-and-Research/Publications-and-media/NFPA-Journal/2017/January-February-2017/In-Compliance/NFPA-72 <S> If the depth of wall section above the door is 24 inches or less, for example, the code requires one ceiling-mounted smoke detector on one side of the doorway only. <S> If the designer specifies the use of wall-mounted detectors, then the code requires two detectors, one on each side of the doorway. <S> Though the above is referring to smoke-detector automatic closing fire doors. <S> My gut feeling is that two detectors is a good solution. <S> I'd position them in the middle of each room, not on the wall above the door. <S> "why not both?"
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Therefore, I absolutely agree with Jack that you need to place the detector closer (the lintel side that's closer to the threat) to the known threat area or even just within the shortest path from that area. Both ceilings could have a smoke detector, but if a fire only has a possibility of starting by itself in one area, no need for 2 alarms Yes and fantastic question, the lintel/header/apron will absolutely delay detection...by quite a lot.
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Is a reciprocating saw the right tool to saw 2cm/0.8" hardened steel? I have a bicycle that's locked with a 2 cm/0.8" hardened steel lock that I have unfortunately lost the key to. I would very much like to get the bike operational again, but all I have is a 900W reciprocating saw. I had some moderate success with it and a metal blade, until the blade became dull after getting about 1 mm through the lock. Note that this was a very cheap blade, and I'm sure I can get some that are harder and more durable, but is it actually worth the effort and cost of blades to use a reciprocating saw for this? Or is an angle grinder a better tool that I should acquire instead? EDIT: And for those who are curious, the lock looks like this: <Q> Good locks are all made with hardened steel that should be as hard as any metal cutting blade for a saw. <S> The reciprocating saw will be able to make a little progress into the shackle, but its speed will dull the blade quickly, and once it's even a little dull, it will stop cutting and melt/grind the teeth completely off. <S> A grinder on the other hand works by heating the metal, softening it and scraping away particles. <S> The grinding disk is meant to be consumable, so rather than getting dull, it just wears away as it does the job. <S> Of course, you should also consider that a lot of locks are very easy to pick open. <S> While you are trying to get access to a grinder, spend a few minutes to research picking and determine the type of lock you have. <S> It's unfortunate, but many locks claiming to be "high security" can be picked in minutes or seconds using improvised tools. <A> Although an angle grinder with a thin cut-off (type 1) wheel is the right tool; if you don't already have one then you can pay well over $70 for a good one. <S> You should look into diamond-grit or carbide-tipped blades per https://www.discountsawblade.com/Articles.asp?ID=264 <S> If you dull down a section of the blade then you should be able to carefully continue cutting with a different section of blade since the reciprocating action only involves about 2 inches of movement and you have a 9 inch blade's worth of cutting material. <S> Additionally, if your reciprocating saw has an "Orbital" setting then make sure it is turned off or else your saw will be uncontrollable. <S> Orbital is immensely useful for cutting wood though. <A> We used to call this a 'hot wrench'. <S> Cutting or Blow torch <S> Most any automotive repair, metal working shop or even a decent bike repair shop will have one and they shouldn't charge that much to blow the old lock off the bike. <A> Get a torch and heat up a section until it turns cherry red and then allow it to cool. <S> This will cause it to lose its temper and it will be soft enough to cut. <S> You can then cut it with a reciprocating saw, angle grinder, or bolt cutters. <S> If you use heat, protect the frame of the bike by wrapping it with a damp towel. <S> You could also try finding a locksmith to pick the lock.
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For cutting locks, nothing beats an angle grinder.
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Good way to remove something from a bathroom sink overflow drain? My wife dropped an earring down the overflow drain of her bathroom sink. The earring is about 1" in diameter, so the hole which goes from the overflow to the main drain is too small for it to pass through. The earring is silver, so it's non-magnetic (I checked the other one to make sure). Short of removing the sink and turning it upside-down, any other ideas on getting that thing out? I thought of just a hook and wire, but it would be a crapshoot on being able to hook it. Just want to add, here's what the sink looks like. Note that the overflow drain is very narrow, and if you measured between the opening and the back of it, it's maybe 5/8": <Q> I'd be going at it with a strongest vacuum <S> you can come up with. <S> Maybe put a nylon stocking over the end of the hose so the earring doesn't get damaged flying down the pipe. <A> If you absolutely, positively, must know for certain that you've hooked the earring, the whole earring, and nothing but the earring, then you want an endoscope: <S> An inexpensive USB or WiFi endoscope with attachments costs somewhere around $10 US. <S> Using the hook attachment, snake the camera into the drain until you see the ring, then hook the ring and pull it out. <S> It could also be used in conjunction with other hooks, grabbers, or even a vacuum. <A> You could try a flexible claw pickup. <S> Press the end, the claws open, let go <S> and they close: <A> A crapshoot might be your best shot. <S> They are flexible and won't wedge the earring further down the drain. <S> Some light gauge wire, like bell wire, would probably work too. <A> (there's no real accepted trade name). <S> They have hooks or tabs on the sides to grip things in the drain and pull them back out. <S> Most hardware and general purpose stores carry them.
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Try getting a few pipe cleaners and bend a hook on the ends and go fishing. All you need to do is connect the endoscope to a phone or a laptop and use it like a webcam. A simple and cheap solution is a flexible drain unclog stick
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Water dripping from soffit - problem with the gutter, roof, or something else? We recently bought a house that has gutter guards installed. I noticed during heavy rain storms, water drips from the front of parts of the gutters, and ends up dripping onto the porch underneath as well. There is a gap in the soffit area that the water drips from that lines up with a darkened area on the front of the gutters. We had a roofing person look over the roof recently who didn't see any obvious issues with it, and based on experience in past houses I'm guessing there might be a clog in the gutter, as opposed to something else causing this leak. Does this seem likely to be an issue with the gutters, or might there be more going on here? <Q> Drips are hard to locate: they can originate a good distance away and follow along a beam to emerge elsewhere. <S> That said, check for clogs in the downspout. <S> I've used a flexible plumbing snake to push though leaves. <S> Use it hand-powered, since downspouts are much more fragile than drainpipe. <A> I've seen a house do this where the first row of singles were ripped off from a storm, causing the water to dribble over the edge rather than run off into the gutter. <S> However, given that in your arrow on the right there is a discoloration on the gutter, my guess would be that the gutter has just been clogged for a while. <S> If you do buy the house, consider trimming trees away from the gutters and possibly putting a gutter guard to keep debris out. <S> This likely effects the gutters periodically throughout the year, mostly Spring and Fall. <S> If there is standing water in the gutter but nothing visible down the pipe, Pippik has a good suggestion. <A> Embarrassing confession: Once I could finally be there during heavy rain to see what was going on, I observed that the water on the porch was not coming from any leaks. <S> We've since had the gutter system of the house totally replaced (the old gutter guards had so many problems that water was barely even making it into the gutters during heavy rain) and thus far this water problem seems to be resolved. <S> Thanks all for the responses.
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It was coming from water spilling over the gutters onto the ground, which resulted in water splashing off of the ground and railings and onto the porch from there.
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What is this attaching my toilet seat and how can I unscrew it? I’m trying to unscrew my toilet seat but it seems to have been fitted with this plastic mechanism, which doesn't seem to want to be unscrewed. Do I need a special tool to remove it? <Q> That is called a blind jack nut, jack nut, blind collapsing nut, etc. <S> They are typically used when you don't have access to and/or don't have the tools to hold onto a nut on the backside of whatever you're putting it into. <S> As you turn the bolt the wedge will move along its length, moving into/out of the split nut which adds/removes force that pushes the split nut apart. <S> In the non installed position the wedge is at the end of the bolt <S> so there is nothing in the split nut to force it apart & <S> the entire assembly can be pushed/pulled through a hole. <S> In your case the bolt is accessed from the opposite side. <S> You will most likely need to grab the entire assembly from below with fingers, a screwdriver, or pliers to keep it from rotating as you turn the bolt. <S> Once it breaks free the nut will likely be incredibly easy to hold as you unscrew the bolt. <A> That is a collapsible nut that fits into various size holes. <S> As the comment says, undo the bolt from the top - you may have a plastic cover to remove. <S> But no image so my "goto" is usually a small screwdriver - just don't stab a finger with it. <S> Note that if you keep tension on the bolt head by pulling on it as you unscrew it then <S> the "nut" will stay located in the hole - may drop after though... <S> Can help if getting to both sides at the same time is difficult. <A> The other answers aren't wrong, but may be optimistic. <S> On mine, the heads weren't accessible from above - <S> the chromed metal covers weren't going to come off with any reasonable force. <S> I managed to unscrew the whole seat by using mole grips (AKA vise grips, self-locking pliers) on the exposed threads, and used the same method to refit it. <S> I could have tightened them up without removing it, but was curious about the mechanism; it looks like the caps on mine clip on too securely to ever be removed. <S> Had I thought of it in time I would have filed a pair of flats on the end of each bolt while I had the whole seat removed, so I could use a spanner next time. <A> You access the top of the screw. <S> It probably has a philips head on it. <S> The means of removing the seat varies. <S> I am not an expert on this <S> but I happen to have seen a couple of these recently. <S> One had a button on the bottom of the lid at the centre - with lids upright. <S> Depress button (well it lifts up away from the floor), lift lids gently and the lids come clear. <S> In my own place the lid assembly lifts straight up - lids upright. <S> HOWEVER they have a detent <S> and I couldn't move them by lifting with what seemed reasonable force. <S> They popped off individually at each side when levered gently upwards with a 6 inch long screwdriver. <S> The lids lifted clear and then there were then small circular covers on each side that had to be lifted off to expose the screw heads. <S> In both cases I was baffled for a while and tried this and that before figuring it out. <S> I even had fitted the latter ones myself a few years earlier and it was very mysterious <S> but I was certain that the lids came off the top somehow to reveal screw heads.
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There are usually caps covering the bolt that can be gently popped off/open using a small screwdriver.
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Outlet screwed directly into stud I was replacing old outlet in my house and came across an outlet that is screwed directly into the studs. Also the stud and the junction box were cut to fit the outlet. The new outlet is too big to fit in this space. I am afraid to put a new outlet in here as it could be a fire risk. What should I do with this? Should i cap off the wires and put a blank wall plate? Or is there some way I can salvage this and put an outlet in here. There is a wall (fireplace) to the left and a sliding glass door an inch or so to the right. <Q> It looks like you are up against a corner on the left, which means you can't simply shift the outlet into the box location. <S> In a perfect world you have enough cable to move the box to the other side of that stud. <S> You would then simply repair your drywall. <S> (We've since learned that there's a door to the right, just out of frame, making this impossible.) <S> Since you are right near a corner you can safely take a third to a half of the stud out without concern. <S> It may not strictly meet code, but experience tells me it won't be a problem. <S> A good way to do that is with a nice sharp spade bit of 1 inch or so. <S> Just make a series of straight-in bores in a grid pattern to cut the wood away. <S> Mark your depth on the side of the stud before hand <S> so you know how deep to go. <A> Use a surface mount electrical box : <A> To add to this answer , I wouldn't just add a surface mount box, I would Cut open the wall open a bit more to remove the wire from the box (it might be stapled inside the wall) <S> Fully patch and paint the wall <S> Drill a hole in the ceiling directly above Surface mount conduit with the existing wire <S> Mount your surface box <S> Why so much effort? <S> If they cut this many corners in mounting the outlet, I would want to know there's nothing else hidden in that wall that could come back to bite you (or burn your house down). <A> Okay - that is absolutely not to code and a fire/shock hazard. <S> You show an electrical box that is partially covered over by plaster/drywall. <S> To fix, just cut the drywall off in front of the outlet 1-gang electrical box (the blue box), pop an extender on it to bring it flush with the surface of the drywall ( for example ), and install the outlet back normally. <S> By US Electrical code, any place you are connecting wires, you have to have access to that in the wall (e.g. at least a plate covering it, if you have room for a plate - you have room for an outlet). <A> Thinking a bit outside the box , this is between a corner and a fireplace, so would you be able to add some fixed permanent or built-in shelving in this little corner? <S> That way you could bring the new socket out and install it permanently in the framing for your new shelf ? <S> but with the power socket in the white backplate? <S> Or if that's a bit ambitious, Ikea have kitset corner shelves called LILLÅNGEN which might fit nicely with a bit of finangling. <S> https://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/90211041/ <S> Something short could even float off the floor, meaning it only needs to be secured to the stud (which you've found) and flush with the wall on both sides. <S> Then bring the wire through a convenient hole, and mount your power sockets. <A> If you are willing to do a little wall repair, this should be easy to correct, at least as far as we can see. <S> If you do, just put one in, and patch the wall as needed. <S> Planning to might well be the best bet here, just from seeing the visible-now butchery. <A> I'd be inclined to saw a notch in the stud and install a proper box. <S> Between a doorway and a corner <S> the stud is not apt to be bearing much weight and can stand to have a notch for a shallow box cut out.
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Cut the wall in front of the box and patch the wall over the stud. Otherwise I would find a shallow box and cut the stud back so that the box can sit partially or completely in front of it. The connection also has to be contained in the box - so the way it's partially covered by drywall is not to code and a fire hazard. Surface mount can be aesthetic, but it also affords you peace-of-mind in knowing it's done right. Depending on what exact butchery is revealed, you might need a new box, you might not.
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How to effectively and efficiently remove varnish from wood I have been restoring an old staircase. I started sanding it with fine sandpaper and then tried rougher paper. It seems that the varnish layer on the wood is melting when sanding over it and sticking to the sandpaper, rendering it useless in a matter of seconds. It is hard to peel the varnish off the paper. The staircase has a lot of perpendicular surfaces and corners; these are hard to reach and the edges of the sandpaper gets cluttered immediately. The current result is a staircase where the varnish is sanded in the middle of the surfaces and around the edges there is still a lot of varnish left. I have used cellulose thinner twice, but that was not effective at all. What did I do wrong here? My question is: how can I remove the varnish from the wood easily, especially in the corners? <Q> I've used it indoors many times and it leaves no fumes. <S> I've used it to strip multiple layers of paint and varnish from furniture. <S> There are many products to choose from <S> but I know this one works. <S> It just goes on with a brush. <S> Good luck, you took on a big job redoing a staircase. <S> This product looks similar due to the fact that it is for indoors and is a gel, which is what you need for a staircase. <S> Verity it with the store personnel. <S> It is sold in your neck of the woods. <A> You might want to try a scraper, which will do particularly well with corners. <S> In the current era, a scraper with a reversible & replaceable tungsten carbide blade is probably your best bet unless you really enjoy sharpening/burnishing a steel scraper. <S> A scraper can do the whole job, or assist with those parts of the job that other methods do not quite do. <S> You might also test a small area with alcohol just in case <S> your "varnish" is actually shellac, which will easily dissolve with alcohol. <A> Check out Diamabrush ( https://diamabrush.com/ ). <S> I used one in an angle grinder to strip 7 layers of sander clogging paint from 700sqft of pine flooring. <S> It worked great.
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I've had great results using Citristrip, (see below).
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Considerations for installing a high efficiency furnace in my attic? I live in Upstate NY and in the winter it gets below 0° F. I currently have baseboard water heating throughout my home. Prior to this I believe there was a gravity furnace which supplied the house with heat. I am hoping to switch to a regular furnace for two main reasons: I would really like to get central A/C in the future I strongly dislike the idea of water lines everywhere in my house; copper does fail eventually Right now we have 2 zones, upstairs and downstairs, which would be nice to maintain. My 1940 home has a full basement and a full attic in which I can stand upright. I would like to have a basement furnace which heats the downstairs. It will be trivial to run the supply lines and cold returns in the walls above the baseboard trim. This would allow me to remove the downstairs zone from my boiler. I would also like to have an attic furnace to heat the upstairs. I feel that this would be easier than trying to run HVAC upstairs from the basement and it would make dual-zones easier to achieve. I think the supply lines would be do-able but properly doing the cold air returns would be a headache. My understanding is that a high efficiency furnace has a condensate reservoir which gets pumped out through a 1/4 tube whenever it fills up; much like a dehumidifier with a built-in pump. Would this be a freezing risk? My attic does get below freezing. Assuming I have insulated supply runs, would my attic get heated by the furnace and cause ice dams on my roof? I do have some space on the second floor which can fit a furnace, would this be a better choice? <Q> Yes you can put a high efficiency furnace in an attic hose if allowed by your local code. <S> I use self regulating heat tape if there is any chance of the condensate line freezing. <S> Have you considered a mini split system? <S> I have installed high efficiency furnaces in attics in the past but you would still need a separate compressor unit outside for AC. <S> The newer mini splits are extremely efficient and zone control can’t be beat as each unit or zone can be independently controlled. <S> With larger homes I recommend multiple outside units each outside unit can serve from 1 up to 8 inside units depending on the size and brand. <S> Mini split systems don’t require duct work and this is where installing a new forced air system gets expensive, in your case with multiple heat sources and ac you should at least consider a split as it won’t take up space in the attic or in the 2nd floor if you choose that location , no duct work is a big plus when changing heating styles like you are planning. <A> Since you have some space in your attic, and you seem set on installing the furnace up there, I think it would be easy enough to make a small room just for the furnace. <S> I did that in our new addition, as the dedicated furnace for the addition was an afterthought after running ductwork over from the original furnace location turned out to be impractical. <S> We put it in the attic next to the second level, but if the attic is above, it should work just the same. <S> We simply made a room large enough for the furnace and to have some work space around it. <S> Coordinate with the furnace installer in how they're going to place it, and keep in mind which direction the filter needs to come out to be changed. <S> Then simply build some 2x4 stud walls around the furnace at either 16" or 24" spacing. <S> This allows you to use paper faced batt insulation so you can leave the one side if the wall just open. <S> The other side should then have a continuous vapor barrier installed and probably sheetrock for fire protection. <S> If you're going to install a high efficiency furnace, it will have its own combustion air supply, so you don't really need to worry about letting air in too much, otherwise, obviously, you will need to make sure there is an air supply there. <S> If you're taking the room all the way up to your roof, make sure to leave space for venting in between your insulation and the underside of your roof. <S> Depending on how you will be situating things, think about the easiest method to seal around the ductwork. <S> With this setup, your furnace will be at least in an insulated space, and it will keep itself warm in there to some extent. <S> It might be worthwhile to remove the floor insulation underneath your room to get more heat in there as well. <S> You may end up running ductwork through non-insulated areas, in that case, consider getting the ductwork spray-foamed after installation. <A> Another consideration is installing the unit on vibration isolators. <S> When the fan turns on, it will cause the unit to move (slightly). <S> Likewise, when it’s running, the fan will cause some vibration in the unit. <S> Make sure the unit is isolated from the framing. <S> I prefer hanging the unit from the roof rafters rather than sitting it on the ceiling framing. <S> They make vibration isolators for both, but the hanging isolators are better than the floor mount isolators. <S> However, you may need to increase some roof joists in order to support the unit... <S> you get some large amounts of snow <S> you’ll need to accommodate too. <S> Otherwise you’ll hear vibration, especially when the unit kicks on. <S> Electric Heat pumps are efficient and inexpensive to operate...down to a certain temperature. <S> Heat pumps work on the principle of taking heat out of the air (or cool air during the air conditioning cycle). <S> This works down to about 38-40 degrees. <S> Then resistance heat turns on and that is expensive. <A> The catch about these new units is that they are sometimes condensing units. <S> I had two installed. <S> One has a direct feed to the drain, while the other has a pump that pipes it to the same place. <S> We had a super-hard freeze (uncommon where I live) and the pump line froze up. <S> That, in turn, tripped the failsafe switch, which cut power to the unit (required by code). <S> I awoke to half the house being cold as a result (I figured it out when I heard the condensate pump running non-stop). <S> Had to defrost the line with a hair dryer and that fixed it. <S> The HVAC guy then insulated the plastic tube and it has not frozen since. <S> If you deal with freezes on a regular basis like that, just be sure to use an appropriate heating device on the condensate line.
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It may be best to install the ductwork first, then build walls, then install the furnace, but based on your situation, a different order might be better. Also, install isolators between the ducts (supply and return) and the unit. Keep the condensate drain plumbing within the insulated areas to keep it from freezing.
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Can I wire a one-way parallel light switch? I have some switched lights in my attic, which is accessible via scuttle in a pantry, which also has lights. Sometimes the attic light gets left on and forgot about.The attic and pantry lights are on the same breaker, served from the same junction box. The attic switch is not visible when the scuttle door is closed. I'd like the switch in the attic to turn on both the attic lights and the pantry lights in parallel (not three way) such that if the attic lights are on the pantry lights are also on. The pantry lights should always be on if the attic is on, regardless of the switch position in the pantry. However, I do not want the opposite to be true. If the attic lights are off, then the pantry switch should work correctly for the pantry lights but the pantry switch should not turn on the attic. Can I do this without "smart switches?" My intent is to make it more obvious that the attic lights are on. <Q> An alternative is using a switch with indicator for the attic. <S> That has a small light that will light up when the light is switched on. <A> Replace the pantry fixture with one containing two bulbs. <S> Wire up one bulb's hot and neutral just the way the current pantry light is. <S> Use the same bulb. <S> Run a cable from the attic light, bringing attic-switched-hot and neutral to this new fixture. <S> Attach those to the other bulb's hot and neutral. <S> Fit a blue or red bulb . <A> Yes you can, I use French wire coloring norm: <S> Red is live. <S> Blue is neutral. <S> Orange are switchable wire. <S> In the schematic: <S> Left side is the attic. <S> Right side is the pantry. <S> Circles are the light bubbles. <S> (Looks like American people call it a 3 ways switch.., in the attic a simple switch can be used) <S> Remark: From your current installation <S> , you probably only need to add the almost-horizontal orange wire between the two switches. <S> Blue and Red must be connected to an unique breaker. <S> Here are the different configurations (Switches black wires positions) : <S> Attic left , Pantry left : everything off. <S> Attic left , <S> Pantry <S> right : pantry on. <S> Attic <S> right , Pantry left : everything on. <S> Attic <S> right , <S> Pantry <S> right : everything on. <S> You can't turn off the pantry if the attic is on. <S> One issue with this solution, is, when you try to turn off the pantry and it doesn't work because the attic is on, so you have to go to the attic to switch it off. <S> Now, half the time, it will turn off the attic and the pantry. <S> So (if the only way out is by the pantry and you need light), you will have to turn everything on from the attic, go to the pantry <S> switch to switch it with no visible effect (everything still on), go to attic to turn it off and finally leave the pantry and turn it off. <A> Not a direct answer but could be an easier solution to your problem. <S> Replace the attic switch with a mechanical timer switch . <S> That way, it doesn't matter if you leave the light on or not, it will automatically turn itself off. <S> You wouldn't have to modify the pantry light's wiring at all. <S> The downside is that it might turn itself off while you're still up there, but you likely don't spend enough time in the attic for that to matter (you can always re-set it as needed).
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Otherwise you will can use a double pole switch for the attic and wire the second pole in parallel with the pantry light. The fixture MUST provide an independent hot and neutral for each bulb. It use two ways switches, the only kind of switch available in France.
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