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what is the correct procedure to patch up cinder block hole with plumbing? (followup question to Why is this Ptrap installed in this location? ) Here is the hole that I want to patch up: As you can see, it is a cinder block wall with concrete foundation with a new PVC drain pipe. I want to cover the hole to prevent future water damage to the foundation. I also want it to be relatively easy to break the wall again and expose the pipe in case there is a problem with it. Here is my current plan: use a shop vac to drain the leftover water and dirt use "great stuff" expanding foam to fill up the left and right blocks use the foam to cover the pipes with 1 inch layer use mortar type s to fill up the rest - including the bottom block wait for it to dry and paint over using the same color Is this a good plan? are there any mistakes that I need to avoid? update: a zoom out of the project <Q> You need to make sure that you can have access to the space in case you need to address any issues with the plumbing in the future. <S> ( especially since you have a fernco type rubber fitting installed . ) <S> Either option will need to have hole for the clean out plug as it stands proud of the wall. <S> Depending on the size of your opening you may find a metal/plasic access panel in the size you need and then cut a hole in it or you may have to have one manufactured. <S> It should be installed with an outdoor rated sealant or silicone and then screwed to the wall with concrete screws or concrete anchors with the appropriate fasteners. <S> Spray foam may be OK for the adjacent block cavities but i would not surround the plumbing with any material that can not be removed easily, for any future maintenance, stuff fiberglass insulation all around it <S> so you can pull it out if you need to. <A> I would make the repair in three steps. <S> Before doing the repair to the cinder block. <S> Wrap the pipes with something, like form pads using zip ties or duct tape. <S> Make about ½- 1” layer. <S> Purpose is not to encase the pipes in concrete. <S> 1. <S> Use your mortar mix and bring up the bottom part level to the joint line. <S> Your clean-out is located in this joint. <S> Remember to cover it <S> so it is not directly embedded in the mortar. <S> Let this dry. <S> 2. <S> Remove completely the block in the middle layer, clean out enough of the mortar grout, so you can cement in a new block . <S> Obtain a replacement block to go in the middle row. <S> From the back of the new block, chisel out the back a vertical opening so the new block can slide pass the pipes into the hole. <S> You also have to chisel the bottom for the clean out pipe. <S> Once the new block has been fitted, apply mortar to all the joints and slide the new block in. <S> Even If the block separate into a left and right part, you are still only have to apply mortar to the joint. <S> 3. <S> Once middle block is in place, you can continue to mortar up the upper portion of the hole, finishing the surface to look like the texture of the cinder block and put in a grout line. <A> I would tidy it up and then make a hatch to go over it. <S> Painted the same it will look neat and quick access.
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You should install an outdoor rated access panel that either has a hinged door or a removable panel.
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What is the best type of door/barrier for a 96" H x 48" W uncased opening? We have an uncased opening measuring 96" H x 48" W which opens to a room we would like to convert to a home office. What kind of door or other barrier would best serve this space? We're planning on engaging with a contractor for the work but are still exploring feasibility. I'm concerned about negatively affecting home value by taking a more open plan, adding a doorway and converting it to a new room. We've thought about something like narrow double doors which open inward that could be removed by a future homeowner if they want to leave the doorway open. Would the depth of the wall affect the feasibility of this option? We've also thought about a higher quality accordion door which could be added without too much modification to the opening. Being a home office reducing noise would be a huge benefit. Pocket doors aren't an option due to the angled wall. Barn doors would be cool but I can't find anything about mounting them where they slide on an angle like this. One 48" door would probably be too big as it would eat up a lot of interior space with the door sweep. We think that changing this to be a regular doorway would look funny and inhibit the open concept for future owners too. See pictures: <Q> Easy reversibility, awkward walls and sound deadening lead me to suggest heavy (probably multi-layered or quilted) drapes/curtains. <S> Do be sure the material is <S> fire-treated (or else fire treat it yourself) since that is one easily preventable issue with this approach. <A> I had an opening similar to this going into a narrow laundry area. <S> It was 72" wide <S> so I used two 36" accordion doors. <S> You could utilize two 24" doors, one mounted on each side. <S> They have 4 clips mounted on the side and three screws for the track on top. <S> They would be very easy to remove if/when needed. <S> When opened, they take up about 5" on each side. <A> Based on a guess that you're going to convert the carpeted space into the office: I'd suggest glass French doors that open into the carpeted space. <S> They would, of course, still cut off a sliver of that angle of the wall, but the space lost behind them would be minimal. <S> When closed, they're glass so the space still appears "open". <S> This also allows you to close the door to indicate to the kids that you're working, but allows you to keep an eye on what's happening in the tiled space (assuming kids that age remain stationary enough that you can see 'em <S> ;). <S> When open, they'll tuck away more or less against the walls of the office, minimizing their space usage. <S> One door will cover the existing light switches so they'll have to be moved. <S> Possibly put a "main" switch outside the room to turn a light on before entering (though there should be enough light from the tiled room to safely find your way to the carpeted room switch), then put the other two switches in the next-most-convenient location where they're not covered by a door. <S> This appears to be a corner off of an otherwise open space. <S> A solid door would probably be cheaper than a glass door and would also offer privacy and allow greater focus on "office stuff" when closed.
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French doors open in the middle, so each door would be a bit less than 24" wide and take up minimal wall and floor space to open. As a thought, instead of glass, you could use a solid door and not lose much of the "open concept" since you're only cutting off a small corner.
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How can I seal the lids on water collection barrels? I'm working on a rainwater collection system. Due to space limitations, I have arranged the barrels in a 2x2 configuration (as in the picture) Problem with this configuration is that I can't get a good seal on the lids, and the 2 barrels on top never fill up. Any ideas to improve the seal? <Q> I would fill the top 2 first as a pair then the overflow from those fills the bottom pair, then excess can be dealt with. <S> Of course one issue, if there is to be only one outlet is how to connect the top and bottom without a manual changeover. <S> That can be done with a oneway valve so the top ones don’t drain into the bottom ones. <S> Edit: to deal with air being sucked in consider a second oneway valve above the outlet as shown, once the upper tanks no longer have water then the valve will close. <S> Once the top pair are full the fill to lower tanks takes the excess until the lower tanks are full <S> then the overflow bottom left controls the final level. <S> The outlet is fed from the top tanks until empty, then the oneway valve allows water out to the outlet from the lower tanks. <S> If you don't have the oneway valve the top tanks will just empty into the lower tanks. <S> This has the advantage that the lids are now just dustcovers and are easy to remove / replace for cleaning. <A> Ok, so I've drawn an alternate configuration based on the solution originally proposed by @jsotola. <S> I don't know if it's the optimal solution, but I think it fixes a potential problem with lack of vacuum when connection a pump to the outlet. <S> I apologise if does not directly answer the question, but I think it solves the main underlying problem. <S> Either way I think it's worth to leave this answer here for posterity, although I will not mark it as the answer unless it gets upvoted by other users. <S> Thanks! <S> Update <S> However float valves are quite slow, which cause two problems: While using the water, it's possible the lower barrels get emptywhile the upper ones still have water. <S> This is not a big problem forme because I use the water every 1 or 2 days in small doses. <S> While filling the barrels, it's possible the upper barrels get fullwhile the lower ones are not full yet. <S> Easy solution is to connectthe upper barrel overflow directly to the lower barrel, adding a newoverflow to the lower barrel. <S> Update <S> I'm considering to replace the float valve with a float switch + actuated ball valve. <S> The float valves I tried to far are painfully slow. <A> If reconfiguring the barrels, as suggested by others, isn't an option I would try two things: 1) Teflon Tape. <S> In the past, I've used Teflon tape on a smaller diameter/volume container but similar working head pressure and it worked well. <S> The lid must be fairly rigid or it would deflect around rather than compress the tape. <S> As a result I had to use A LOT of tape. <S> Likely one roll per barrel in your application. <S> I eventually learned to replace the Teflon tape every time I opened the container and replace the lid every 10-12 times I opened it due to the plastic deforming. <S> 2) Gluing. <S> More permanent but more reliable. <S> Obviously only for consideration if you don't want access to the interior ever again. <S> I'm assuming these are standard polyethylene drums. <S> PE is very hard to glue due to it's chemical properties, however there are some glues on the market which "activate" the surface to prepare it for bonding. <S> Here is a brand available at my local hardware store.
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The float valve is still the best solution I've found so far.
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Framing for drywall around curved stairs I have a curved stair case and I'm looking to drywall it up going into the basement. I'm looking for guidance on how to best frame the area below the stairs to drywall it up. Images of the bottom of the staircase, looking up: <Q> I would not mount drywall directly to the stairs. <S> Establish lines on the wall. <S> Rip 1x4 boards in half to yield 1x2 boards with nice square edges. <S> 1x2 lumber usually has very rounded edges. <S> Mount these runners on the line with the narrow edge and square corners against the wall. <S> Use 3" construction screws and pre-drill so as to not crack the boards. <S> If you find the curves too tight, soak the boards in warm water for a few hours. <S> Mount 2x4 boards flatwise across the span, screwing them into the runners with 2-1/2" construction screws. <S> Pre-drill here, too. <S> This strategy, along with the corner tape joints, will leave you with a very strong ceiling. <S> It'll be isolated from the staircase, so that any vibration and movement in the stairs won't result in cracks. <S> | <-- wall|__________| | <-- 1x2 runner <S> , screwed to the wall studs|__________|_________________________________________________________|| 2x4 ceiling joist, screwed into the 1x2 runner||_____________________________________________________________________ | One suggestion for fitting the drywall (the most challenging part of all this) is to do it one side at a time. <S> Fit pieces that run about 2/3 the way across the span to the wall. <S> Do this from each side, mounting loosely near the walls and lapping the center area. <S> Then use a rotary cutter to slice up the middle through both layers. <S> Remove the scrap and screw it all tight. <A> Use 1/2" plywood ripped 3 3/4" wide, pushed into the wall, with the top edge following the slope of the stairs on both sides. <S> You may need to use a thinner plywood to conform to the inner radius but the idea is to conform to the radius and the twist the wall will make the plywood do. <S> do 2 layers of 1/2", and 3 layers if you need to go with a thinner plywood. <S> After that is done, cut 2x4s to go between the plywood strips. <S> No the 2X will not line up perfectly on either side meeting the plywood, because the inside and outside are at 2 different angles, but it will work for drywall. <S> When done the framing will look like the spokes of a wheel radiating out from the center. <S> Use the risers to establish the line to follow for your framing. <S> If you cannot get 6' 8" to the finish for code, rip the plywood 1 3/4" and set the 2x flat. <S> Use 1/4" drywall for the ceiling, it will conform to the helix, the ceiling is. <S> use 2 layers in your framing you place at 8" centers on the tight radius so it will be perhaps, 12-16" centers at the larger radius. <S> Closer framing centers the better. <A> I would put some furring strips on the bottoms of the stairs. <S> Then attach the drywall to the furring strips, I would want 3 for most stairwells. <S> Enclosing this will help improve your tape and texture skills.
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I would install thin, flexible boards against the wall and mount crossbars (ceiling joists) to them. This could be done with semi-rigid pipe held against the staircase to create smooth curves.
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Is it possible to cut a larger opening in this window / serving hatch of this pool house? I'm curious if it is possible to cut a taller opening in this pool house or if that would create structural issues supporting the roof From the inside you can see I would remove the 3 stubby studs and the 2x4 below it, leaving the 2x4 above that sits under the 4x4s that hold the roof. I'd add longer 2x4s to the left and right. Longer view of it: From the front you can see I would need to cut into the exterior trim but also a 2x8. That's my biggest concern. Does that act as a header to distribute the load or are the horizontal 4x4s already doing that? Could I add a 4x4 to the corner for additional support (like the far corners where the bar-top is)? <Q> As you can see, there is a header in place now fashioned of two 2x4s with blocking. <S> This is not a particularly strong support <S> but I doubt there is much to support beyond the roof itself. <S> Doing what you are proposing with the lines on the photo, however, leaves no room for anything but that one 2x4 which is probably not enough support. <S> You could probably get at least as much support as you have now with a couple of 2x4s and a plywood spacer between then. <S> You'd lose a bit of opening height from what you've drawn <S> but it would be close. <A> I see a half lap joint in the beam ( is it a beam ? ) on left side of photos 2 and 3. <S> The header seems to be supporting this joint. <S> If the beam was of sufficient size and spanned the full width and supported on proper posts at the ends <S> then i think you could do whatever you wanted in the space below. <S> ( I am not an engineer, i do not know what size beam would be sufficient for the length of that span. <S> ) <S> If the existing beam is sufficient and there was a post under that half lap joint you could shift the opening ( or have the whole space open ) to allow for the proper post under the half lap joint . <S> The 2"x 8" ( 2"x 10" ? ) <S> on the face of the header seems to be sufficient to support the joint but your plan would require removing that header. <A> I believe that 2x8 you're seeing is acting as the entire header. <S> Sit the bottom edge of it on the top flat 2x4. <S> Nail it into the rafter supports above. <S> Replace the jack studs at the sides of the opening with full height studs to bear the weight of the new header. <S> Extend it beyond the opening <S> so it's sitting above the jack studs.
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The 2 2x4 on the flat with the little cripple studs above them aren't really supporting any weight, especially since there isn't a vertical cripple above the jack stud at the edge of the opening. You may get away with it if you put a 2x8 above the opening. Yes, you can but you will need to properly support the structure above the new opening.
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Ground a dryer converting to a 3-prong cord - manufacturer hardware missing I need to change the cord on an electric dryer from 4-prong to 3-prong. My questions concern 1) what to do with the ground when moving to the 3-prong dryer and 2) how to test whether the installation is working as it should using a multi-meter. The dryer is a Bosch WTMC3300US/01. The relevant section of the manual is here: The ground strap that the documentation mentions is not present nor is it available. I have fashioned a connection from 10 gauge copper wire. The new installation looks like this: My research on the wisdom of this connection is all over the place, and I'm very interested in not screwing up. (One electrician I asked told me to connect the middle lead of the pigtail to the ground screw and leave the neutral empty. The most read post on this site says not to connect the ground and neutral. The manual says to use the ground strap, presumably connecting the neutral and ground.) This is the wiring diagram for the dryer: This is the original 4-prong configuration: Thanks for your input. EDIT: This is the inside of the current dryer receptacle, which is connected to a THQL breaker in the junction box (picture of that in the comments): <Q> If I had to do this at gunpoint, I would have used a Stranded piece of wire with eye connectors at each end. <S> That would give a much more solid connection at both ends without a wire wrapped around a screw over a eye termination. <S> To test the connections with a multimeter I'd go from the middle terminal to each end terminal and look for 120V, then from the two end terminals and look for 240V. <A> So here's the deal with that 3-prong 4-prong thing. <S> "My circuit lost power". <S> Oftentimes, it's "my circuit lost power, but the hot AND neutral are both reading as hot". <S> That's because the loose wire is neutral. <S> (And that's why neutral wires have insulation). <S> These happen literally every week here. <S> Now, imagine someone didn't have a safety ground and decided to bootleg ground off of neutral. <S> What happens when that neutral wire gets loose? <S> It becomes hot, of course, but so does everything touching the ground . <S> Super deadly. <S> Now, in the 60s when grounding came in, appliance makers lobbied for an exception. <S> They feared that a forced rewiring would interfere with appliance sales. <S> " <S> What about ground?" <S> They got an exception cut in the rules that dryers and ranges could wire the chassis to neutral - in other words, bootlegging ground. <S> And it's exactly the same risk. <S> Neutral wire gets loose, the chassis of the machine WILL energize at line voltage. <S> So even though 3-prong outlets are leeegal , we like to see them avoided at all costs. <S> I think ThreePhaseEel is going to come in with a few ways to do that, but the first thing you can do is open up the 3-prong receptacle and see if there isn't really a ground wire (or metal conduit back to the panel) back there. <S> Often, the ground is present, but the builder changed it to 3-prong because the buyer said they had a 3-prong dryer. <A> Just change the receptacle out Since you have all four wires (black, red, white, bare) there, there's nothing stopping you from changing that bad old NEMA 10-30R out for a nice, safe NEMA 14-30R. <S> You can then put the 4-prong cord back on the dryer, remove the field-fabricated replacement bonding strap, button things back up, turn the breaker on, plug the dryer in, and enjoy your dryer, without having to worry about an open neutral causing your dryer to zap you!
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You should really do this according to current code and leave the four wire plug and run your existing feed into a new box and add a four prong receptacle. What you have done is correct but whether it is safe is another thing. If you hang around any time on this forum, you find hear about loose connections.
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Is this a split bus electrical panel? My home inspector called this a split bus panel and that it should be replaced eventually. Looking at split bus examples, I don't think it is. Was he just confused by the 200Amp double pole braker? Should I have this updated? <Q> It's not a split-bus/Rule of Six panel. <S> I plainly see a huge main breaker. <S> The entire point of a split-bus panel was to allow services > 60 amps <S> so you could have all-electric houses... but avoid the (then, very expensive) cost of >60A breakers. <S> The strategy was to place the large 20-50A 240V electric appliance loads in the "main" or "Rule of Six" area, along with a 60A breaker which would power an internal subpanel. <S> In this subpanel went all your 120V loads. <S> Honestly I think what confused your inspector was the cluster of breakers that is 5 spaces tall x 2 wide, with a large empty section above. <S> I had to do a double-take myself. <S> It looks a lot like the 4x2 or 6x2 group of "main breakers" section of a split-bus panel. <S> Looks OK to me <S> I wouldn't replace the panel on the basis of it (not) being a split-bus panel. <S> It's a GE Q-line with all the spaces <S> enabled for the double-stuff breakers, so you could fit 40 breakers in here if you didn't need GFCI or AFCI. <S> And if you do, there's just enough spaces to convert them all. <S> And GE makes a magic 1-pole AFCI that can be used in pairs to protect 240V circuits. <S> The only reason I'd replace it is if the GE dealer (a local electrical supply house) were to say "I can't get you breakers for that panel". <S> But I doubt that would be so. <A> That main breaker is a low-cost way of some mfrs attaining a 200A main using molded case breaker frames originally designed to only go to 100A; they essentially parallel 2 x 100A breakers and call it 200A. <S> You and I can't do that in the field, but the manufacturers can if they can get them to past the proper testing and list them as such. <S> These are a relatively new (15years?) <S> development in the breaker / panel industry, so there are still lots of people who have never seen them and don't understand. <A> That is not a split buss panel. <S> Those have several breakers for heavy loads (range, water heater, clothes dryer, HVAC) that are not controlled by a main breaker. <S> There is a sub-main breaker for the other circuits. <S> As long as there are 6 or fewer breakers, they are legal. <S> I don't like them, but they are legal, or at least were legal, not sure if they are anymore now, but you are grandfathered in. <S> I see no reason to update. <S> Looks like a good clean layout with plenty of additional spaces.
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No, not a split bus. The distinguishing feature of a split-bus panel, also called a Rule of Six panel, is no main breaker .
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what's the minimum depth of a wire channel in a concrete ceiling? I would like to install fans and and ceiling lights at different locations on a concrete ceiling and not have the wire or the conduit visible. I've seen previous posts recommending a trench as a solution and like this idea. Is there a minimum depth to the trench? (I also tried to find out if the OP of a similar question had successfully pursued any of the solutions offered but that query was deleted for some reason). <Q> If you cut a "trench" in a concrete ceiling, you potentially weaken the strength of the structure. <S> Not a good idea. <S> Better to use already available surface mount wiring channel (trade name "Wiremold" for reference only) and if it bothers you, change your attitude about it. <S> Or hide it beneath some architecturally unnecessary structure, like a faux beam made of stryrofoam and painted to look like the concrete (people sell this for that exact reason). <S> Compromising safety for aesthetics is never a great plan. <A> So, if using 1/2" conduit, you would need a channel that is at least 1.25" <S> deep by 1" wide. <S> The outside diameter of the conduit is close to 0.75" and you need extra room because I doubt this will be a precision cut, and you need some depth so the concrete patch doesn't immediately crack and fall out. <S> Oh, and you need to fasten the conduit in place <S> so you need to take that into account as well. <S> Now, that all said, I really doubt you should cut anything into a concrete ceiling. <S> In a multi-unit residence, you likely don't have the legal right to do it, and in any other case, the ceiling is probably concrete because it's structural. <S> And engineer would need to tell you it is safe, in writing. <S> The normal way to hide electrical in a concrete ceiling would be to add furring strips to the ceiling, run all the electrical, and then build a new ceiling on top of everything. <S> Either that, or hide it with faux wooden beams or similar. <A> In the ground with the utmost minimal exception: (otherwise it's at least 4", usually 6", if not more) 5: <S> Where solid rock prevents compliance with the cover depths specified in this table, the wiring shall be installed in metal or non-metallic raceway permitted for direct burial. <S> The raceways shall be covered by a minimum of 2 inches of concrete extending down to rock. <S> – <S> adamselectric.coop, PDF <S> In a concrete ceiling, in a trench after it was poured : Absolutely zero.
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The wire would have to be run through conduit, and I don't believe there is a minimum "depth" that the conduit needs to be "buried" in the concrete.
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Replacment remote for an older garage door I have an older Lift-A-Dor garage door opener. The remote is no longer working. The remote model# is RC-10. The garage door lift is model# LD100. Where do I purchase a replacement or is there a compatible universal remote available? <Q> You can purchase from the big box home improvement stores or online resources a device which connects to the physical button (wired) of your opener. <S> It is a radio receiver matched with the remote(s) included in the purchase. <S> It replaces/augments the existing system, allowing more remotes along with the original for those who have working systems. <S> More advanced versions will also mate with one's portable communication device with the appropriate application. <S> Skylink is one such brand, there are others. <A> If you can not find the OEM you may have problems. <S> The frequency band with was changed a few years back and there are many different technologies for openers. <S> There are replacement modules that the receiver is wired to the door open button with a new style transmitter <S> this may be the best and most secure way to fix the problem. <A> To know exactly you have to know what radio frequency it uses, and the signaling technique. <S> You seem to know the model numbers which helps a lot. <S> A quick google on your info landed me on a site like this. <S> There are others. <S> (disclaimer: <S> I know nothing about this supplier) <S> garage-door-opener-parts.com
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For well known brands and models, you can do some internet searching for companies that sell this type of equipment, and have brand name or generic compatible replacements for sale.
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Installing flooring in bathroom and new toilet new homeowner here that decided to take on too many projects while moving in! One of our projects is installing new "peel-and-stick" laminate tiles from Home Depot and are 2mm thick. We are planning on installing the tile on top of the existing linoleum flooring. My question has to do with installing the toilet wax ring. The current flange on the floor was installed on top of the linoleum flooring. Will the additional 2mm on top of the existing floor warrant a taller wax ring? Should we replace the flange in the floor and install the new one (the current one is busted, I bought a metal flange to put over it already) on top of the new flooring? Just wondering what the proper procedure for this is. Thanks in advance! <Q> Is your new flange one of the metal repair flanges that attaches to the old one? <S> If so this will make up any difference in height. <S> When I set a toilet I work the new wax into the ring on the toilet so it seals. <S> When I place the toilet on the flange I check that the toilet has a space before pushing down as long as there is a small gap the wax ring will seal, if the toilet sits on the floor I pull the toilet up and add some wax <S> I normally keep a very cheap wax ring no flange to add to a wax ring but vinyl usually is not thick enough to cause a problem <A> That way the toilet will form a new seal. <S> In fact it's a good idea to replace the wax ring any time you remove the toilet. <S> As far as your broken flange, obviously you will want to replace that. <A> If your flange was good , the extra 2mm would make basically no difference with a standard new wax ring - they have a good range of compliance. <S> Since you have to replace the flange , do the floor and install it on top of the new floor.
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You will probably want to replace the wax ring with a new one.
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Can insects get into a house through the ducting? I have a study that normally has the door closed and all the windows are very tight, modern windows, yet I keep finding insects, especially flying insects like lady bugs and wasps in the room. Can insects get into ducting from the outside? Is there some kind of external vent in an HVAC ducting system? <Q> Unless you have an airlock entry system with strip and new clothes etc. <S> They will also come in through any gaps and there are few constructions that are 100% sealed. <S> There are tests that can be done to check this. <S> As for HVAc, that depends on the system, if there is a heat exchanger to prevent outside air and inside air from mixing then insects cannot cross <S> but if the outside air is heated or cooled and there is no filter or the filter is damaged or poorly fitted then insects can get through. <A> Code requires makeup air vents to have screens so the hvac system should not be the source, back draft dampers in range hoods commonly get stuck open but normally have grease grills the silver foil mesh that you have to clean if that is gone <S> it could be a path or the bathroom exhaust fan. <S> My last home we had 1 wall on the lower level that had thousands of ladybugs and they found cracks and small openings, our local plant nursery would come and collect them <S> (they might pay if you have enough or collect them yourself) <S> we just wanted them gone because they could find ways into the house dozens <S> if not hundreds a day collecting them <S> did help and finding / <S> sealing the very small cracks they were using to get inside many were at the fireplace and around 1 window. <S> That house only had electric base boards so no central air or make up air until I converted to gas and a ac unit. <S> If the screens at your soffit vents are damaged that is another possibility for entry but the hvac system would not be a normal entry point. <A> There are quite a few ways insects can get in thought an ac system. <S> There are electrical connections that run through conduit that insects can fit along side wires, ive had many insects trapped in bathroom light fittings. <S> They can also get in through condensate piping that is meant to take water out of the building but can sometimes provide a way in. <S> As said in another answer on clothes and bags is the usual route.
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As for vents they are easy routes for insects, unless there are grilles or filters on each vent which have to be fitted properly - any gap and they get through. They can come in with you, on your clothes in or on bags etc.
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What should I use to fill big gap around door frame? A door was replaced (due to break in). The contractor insisted to go to a bigger size door. So we went from 32 to 36 inch (which is more widely available). Now I see a gap of near 1 inch between door frame and what appears to be the stud near the key hole. The door is screwed with some long screws into the frame. Is this OK? What do I do with the gap? 1- Fill with foam 2- Try to fit in with wood. What wood type will not cause expansion and deformation of frame of door? 3- ? Also,near the door step I see newly exposed vinyl flooring in bad shape (something was covering this portion up before). What do I use to cover it up? <Q> With the deadbolt on the door, it appears to be an exterior door, so the space in the jamb should be insulated, both at the top and the sides. <S> No need for a full roll of insulation to be bought, there are smaller pieces that can be bought such as fiberglas pipe wrap, or ask a person you know that may have a little on hand. <S> It won't take much. <S> The drawing below will explain a bit on what to do about sizing material for the trim to cover the gap. <S> Perhaps other trim that is throughout the house will give an idea how to treat the door. <S> Perhaps the trim in your place looks like this? <S> The sides of the door in this pic looks like the trim will fill the footprint in your flooring. <S> Carpet trim is what I Googled to find the strip to cover the edge where the flooring is cut at the door. <A> It is completely common for there to be a 1/4" to 5/8" or maybe even more of a gap between the rough opening of the studs and the door jamb. <S> This is to allow for the adjustment of the door jamb to be nice and plumb and square even though the rough opening may not be so perfect considering the variation in framing lumber dimensions and variation in the wall framers skills. <S> Do not pack the insulation in tight. <S> Also do not bother for an interior door. <S> This gap gets covered up when you install the door casing trim after first fixing up and priming the drywall areas near the door edges. <A> You will find the wider door a lot more convenient. <S> The gap between the door frame which is part of the door assembly and the studs are normal. <S> The space allows the door frame to be installed straight vertical. <S> If this is an exterior door, you could use Smart-foam, which is low expanding and will not distort the frame. <S> If it is an interior door, just leave the gap alone. <S> Sealing the gap is to reduce heat loss on external walls. <S> It serves no purpose in interior walls. <S> After the wall is finished around the door, molding is used to frame the door and cover the gap. <S> At the bottom of the door, you would install a door threshold for transition. <S> All of this is part of the final finishing work, except for adding a filler for the gap.
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Best thing, if it is an exterior door, is to loosely press on some soft insulation in the gap.
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Is there such a thing as hardwired/powered keyless door locks? I've seen an explosion on the market of keyless door locks, keyless dead bolts, and so on. Schlage sells a bunch. From the looks of it, most of them are powered either by a 9V battery or some number of AA batteries. Since there's always an actual key slot, you can rest assured that you can still get in even if the battery dies. But what I'm wondering is if there are any keyless locks that don't require a battery? I'm not sure if such a unit exists in the first place. For something like that to even be possible, you'd likely have to run some power wires through the door frame somehow. I am not sure if that is even possible to do, or if any such unit exists. Are they all battery-powered, or is it possible to have a hardwired keyless lock? <Q> The word you're looking for is "Electric strike" . <S> In this system, the door latch is not powered or operated at all. <S> The door striker plate is. <S> In essence the door frame lets go of the door. <S> Obviously, since the strike is in the door frame, it's not moving, and running power to it is trivial. <A> <A> I've seen hinges that carry power in commercial settings. <S> I became aware of one in an office I worked in, when it started having issues and heated up a bit. <S> A bit of googling <S> and I found that Stanley makes one for about $100 <A> Another option similar to the electric strike is a Maglock or Electromagnetic Lock. <S> The door needs to be ferrous, so if its not mostly steel then a steel plate needs to be securely fastened to the top corner. <S> The magnet is mounted under the lintel and wired to a power source. <S> When power is applied, the electromagnet attracts the door with hundreds of kilograms of force, which is more than you can generate by yanking on the handle. <S> Advantages: <S> Doors can all be locked and unlocked by a building control system on a timetable. <S> Doors can be briefly unlocked by a swipe card / proximity tag reader and then immediately lock again, to limit tailgaiters. <S> The door's state can often be read by the maglock - so if someone has wedged the door open then the current drawn by the energised lock is different, so the building control system can raise a "door not secured, please check" alert. <S> Some downsides: You have to be mindful of tall people though - losing a couple inches out of an average door <S> height puts it into head-banging range for taller people, which is unpleasant. <S> The door lock requires power to stay locked - in the event of power failure, the door will fail to an unlocked state. <S> They're normally backed by an alarm battery good for days, but these can be forgotten. <S> The fix is to have a secondary key lock, and after a day of no-power someone has to go in and lock the doors with the key. <S> Cost - there's wiring to be done to each door, and a steel plate fastened to the moving part. <S> These don't work with sliding doors, but they tend to have motors which can simply be turned off achieving a similar goal. <S> One failure case is if the ferrous plate has come off the door <S> then there's no way for the sensor to know the door is insecure. <S> I saw one that had been in this state for possibly years, but noone had tried it when locked. <S> Lastly, these are not bank-vault grade locks. <S> Hundreds of kilograms can be generated by a vehicle yanking at the door via a chain. <S> However this will still slow a forced entry giving time for security guards to respond. <A> There are systems like Opera iControl that allow to have (possibly custom) control unit next to the door frame. <S> This unit is responsible for decision for opening the door and can be mains powered. <S> The part inside the door itself is battery powered, and activated by the coded infra red signal from the control unit. <S> The IR sender is embedded into the striker and is both powered and activated by the 12 V input that can come from anywhere. <S> The "in door part" uses very little power to move the tiny control latch somewhere in the lock. <S> The much larger deadbolt is then moved by a human pressing the handle, but for the outer side this can only be done if the control latch permits. <S> The battery finally needs replacement or recharging, but under the normal door usage (few openings a day) it can probably last for many weeks. <S> These locks can always be opened from inside, with and without batteries, locked or not, by just pressing the handle. <S> From outside, they can be opened with the key if the battery dies. <S> I have seen many such locks in the hotels of Italy. <S> While not provided by the manufacturer, it may be possible to design some kind of induction charging for the battery in the lock, with sender and receiver coming into proximity when the door is closed. <S> Both chargers and receivers are available on the market. <S> Depending on where does the door is, a solar battery may also work.
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There are mechanical combination locks .
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Two 20-Amp circuits in one box for outlets I would like run two 20-Amp circuits to a 2-gang box with two duplex outlets. One duplex outlet on Phase A and the other on Phase B. I know to keep the hots and neutral separate and that the grounds can be combined. Is there anything special I need to do at the panel? For example, should I use a tandem breaker with these two circuits. Revised: 2020-June-04 More clarification to come. All work will be inspected by the city that I live in. I want to make the inspector proud of me and my quality work. I am taking no short cuts. If the inspector makes me do it again, I'll do it again. This is how I will learn. The work will on a 2-story unfinished 20x24 detached garage. The second floor will be a studio apartment style (for my personal use only - no renters). I plan to use the first floor for combo car-garage and workshop (car/wood/kids projects/etc.). I do not believe I will need any 240V circuit. The idea is if I have a 120V air-compressor and 120V ShopVac running at the same time, I did not want to start tripping breakers. All the equipment would not be stationary. For example, I can move everything to one side if I need to work on a my car. Trying to plan for a future requirement is driving me crazy. So I am trying to build in flexibility so I want have to bang my head on the floor too hard. I had the panel upgraded to 200A Eaton Plug-on Neutral and I have currently installed plug-on neutral breaker (GFCI/AFCI combo). <Q> Well, you can run two totally separate circuits to the box, from two toally separate single-pole breakers. <S> That way if one trips, the other does not. <S> Nothing wrong with that. <S> You can also run a "Multi Wire Branch Circuit" (MWBC) from a two-pole breaker (a fault on either will shut both down) with a single neutral and two hots. <S> The savings is not particularly large so you can go either way. <S> If doing this, you need to pigtail the neutrals so that removing one outlet would not interrupt the neutral on the other outlet. <S> My personal preference with this sort of setup is to use different receptacle colors, though choice is limited without having the price get absurd (many colors are made, but some cost 10X what the "common" colors do) so some other sort of indication on the faceplate (such as actual labels) to indicate that they are different circuits (and <S> hey, state <S> what breaker number they are, too) is another approach. <A> What you're proposing is totally fine. <S> Let's be clear about what a yoke is. <S> A yoke (literally) is the metal frame that holds the recep and that the 2 mounting screws go through. <S> So your proposal is 2 circuits, 1 per yoke, all in a 2-gang box, and that is fine. <S> (If you were proposing to put 2 circuits on 1 yoke, they would need to be handle-tied for common maintenance disconnect.) <S> I believe you are correct to run 2 separate circuits with 2 separate neutrals. <S> While a 2-pole breaker would be fine (and unnecessary), I recommend against tandems. <S> You will want full-size breakers. <S> Because, when the inspector pinches you for the breaker not being AFCI, you'll need a full space for the AFCI. <A> Heads up... <S> If you live in the USA, and in a state that adopts the most-recent NEC, just be aware that almost any space in a dwelling needs an AFCI breaker per changes in the 2020 code. <S> Making changes to a circuit removes the grandfather provision that prevents us all from having to replace all our breakers if we're not doing other work. <S> "Who's going to inspect it, anyway?". <S> Nobody, perhaps ... unless you have a fire. <S> Then your insurance agency will have a reason not to pay your claim since your system did not meet code (I work for a utility in a county with no electrical inspectors, and we strongly caution our members against skimping on code compliance). <S> AFCI detects patterns in the voltage and/or current waveforms that signify an arc fault that could be too low for ground-fault or normal overcurrent breakers to detect and interrupt. <S> They're only expensive compared to the cost of other breakers. <S> Compared to having a fire, they're priceless (I'd surmise every victim of a dwelling fire <S> had said or thought, "It won't happen to me"). <A> Can you have 2 separate Fed 120v 20 amp receptacles in the same box? <S> yes! <S> there are many ways you can do this. <S> I would recommend a double pole GFCI breaker since you are in a garage, they need to be GFCI protected, having a double pole breaker would be the safest way with both being in the same box , , if the kids are into electronics and will be using multiple circuits I would feed each line from the same leg (us residential is split phase and are referred to as L1 & L2). <S> The reason I would do this is because having multiple projects powered by different sources can blow things up (I did this as a teenager trying to build a really big amplifier , once I had both circuits on the same leg <S> it worked but was a dead short with both hots connected when they were L1/L2). <S> Other things
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If using audio amps making sure the amps are on a separate leg from a fog maker or other electrically noisy devices so it depends what they will be doing, GFCI protection but breaker or receptacle is required and if L1/L2 I think the best and safest is for a handle tied breaker or double pole breaker as allowed for a multi wire branch circuit. As long as there is only 1 circuit on that yoke, you don't need to do anything special. They do not need any special breakering, the breakers can be anywhere.
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Daisy chain or dedicated outlets in wiring my RV? What will happen if I dedicate each outlet to its own breaker in an RV??I thought I was doing it the right way and may have cost myself a lot of extra money and put my safety on the line. I already have plastic and insulation up... do I have to take down and ponytail my outlets? <Q> If each outlet is on its own breaker then you have probably used more cable compared to having two or more on a circuit, as well as paid for a few extra breakers. <S> What you have not done is compromised your safety. <S> This way if any one outlet "sees" or detects a fault then the other outlets will continue - unless the inverter shuts down. <A> No, you don't have to remove and vapor barriers or insulation. <S> There's nothing wrong with tying each outlet to it's own breaker. <S> It actually makes sense because because there's not an abundance of outlets in an rv <S> and it's easy to overload them <S> and then you loose all on the one breaker. <S> It probably didn't cost that much because you already had to buy the wire <S> and it comes in a box or reel and the breakers are pretty cheap. <S> Just don't use the backstabs on the outlets. <S> Terminate the wires on the screw terminals. <S> Another advantage is that if one outlet acts up, it's easy to troubleshoot and you don't lose the whole string. <A> This might be wise if you are close to running out of breaker space -- it's always good to save a few slots for later updates.
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What you can do is pigtail the wiring together in the breaker box so that you can put two outlets on one breaker.
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Fix a wobbly table I have a table consisting of a top and a leg. But top is wobbly due to a space/gap between top and leg. What is the easiest/fastest way to fix it? Note that there's no attachment between the top panel and the structure underneath. <Q> You can buy adjustable size plastic shims easily at home improvement stores or online. <S> I would fit on to the gap's size and insert gently, using a chisel and hammer. <A> Now that I understand that the top simply rests on the substructure--a very non-standard arrangement--here's my suggestion... <S> Avoid the whole issue by installing pads or bumpers at the outer ends of each supporting arm. <S> These can be self-stick rubber pads or the kind of nail-on rubber bumpers used in moving assembly applications. <S> This eliminates any need to fine-tune fitment, provides good stability, and affords some additional friction to prevent unwanted movement. <A> Get a small piece of paper and fold it until is fits in that gap snugly at the biggest opening. <S> All the advantages of being cheap, quick, and fairly durable. <A> I would make two suggestions. <S> Properly attach the table top to the rails using table top fasteners. <S> Table top fasteners screw into the table top and lock it into a groove in the support rail. <S> This allows the top to expand and contract, yet keeps the top from being knocked off. <S> This is an example of the type of fastener <S> I'm referring to: No endorsement of this supplier or particular item intended or implied, it was simply the first result of a search for "table mount clip". <S> Image from linked source. <S> It's entirely possible that using 2 or 3 of these clips on each rail will suffice to stop the table top from wobbling. <S> You'd have to install them nearer the center of the rail where the drop of the clip will reach to where you actually have wood, as opposed to hanging into space or only having a thin section of wood above the groove which may break off. <S> I haven't looked, but it's possible that they make these clips with a greater drop that would span the gap between your table top and the drooped rail. <S> This would be the ideal solution. <S> If the clips aren't sufficient, plane or sand down the bowed center section of the support rails. <S> It's hard to tell exactly how much gap there is between the bottom of the table top and the top of the rail, but it appears to be 1/4" or so. <S> That rail appears to be substantial enough to be able to survive that much material removal without any significant loss of strength. <S> This will give you a flat surface all the way across the rail to support your table top. <A> Only glue it to the leg, not the top. <S> Sand first, clamp or weight right after. <S> Once dry, the joint will be stronger than the wood it's attached to. <A> Thanks guys ☺ <S> Later I will use methods suggested by @isherwood or @FreeMan
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Wood glue a shim into the gap. For now, I'm using some sort of plastic foam, something like @UnhandledExcepSean suggestion.
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Removing hose tap/faucet from old hose pipe (outside) when half the metal thread is stuck Today, I tried to replace the tap unit to my mom's hose because the 40-year old tap was leaking water everytime I turned the water partially on. So I used a vise grip to try to unscrew the tap. The nice news is the tap is removed, but the bad news is it was not removed completely. In fact, part of the threading is still stuck in the barrel. Now remember, no plumbing work was done on this in like 40 years at least. I tried various methods to remove the threading inside. First I tried scraping a kitchen knife around in hopes it eats at the metal. it only removed tiny pieces. I then tried an interior wrench tool which looks like a stick that you put inside and turn with a wrench. That was also unsuccessful. I even tried 60 grit sandpaper. That also does not work. Now, my mom suspects the metal on the old hose tap is brass, but I think it is copper. I measured a new tap with a conductivity meter and surely enough it conducts electricity. Makes me think maybe it is copper but then again could brass conduct electricity? Anyways, the only other thing I would consider trying is some sort of chemical to eat the metal. The only thing I have on hand is ferric chloride liquid that removes copper, but isn't there a better chemical or method I can use to get the stuck metal piece out? I also suggested to her that a torch might be in order to help remove the part because I'm guessing some sort of chemical adhesive was used to keep the tap from leaking in the wrong places. but is there another way to do it without having to resort to using a torch? This is the front view of the hole. I added red arrows to give you an idea of how far in I need to go to remove the stuck part. This is the side view of the whole unit. <Q> With the new photos added we can see you're working with a regular 1/2 inch coupler on the end of a piece of pipe. <S> Both are probably "black" iron pipe (as opposed to being galvanized pipe). <S> I suggest removing and replacing the coupler. <S> That'll probably be easier than cleaning out the internal threads. <S> You'll need a pair of pipe wrenches, and heating the coupler with a torch could help too. <S> For reassembly, apply a pipe thread sealant on the outer/male threads. <S> The white teflon tape is a common choice but my personal preference is usually a paste compound (often generically called "pipe dope"). <S> Being wet it's a bit messier than the teflon tape but in my opinion it lubricates better for assembly and it seals better too. <A> A photo of the pipe would be helpful, copper pipe is a possibility but the faucet will be almost certainly brass <S> , I agree with Ecnerwal leave the ferric chloride for pcb’s it would take forever with that thick of a material. <S> I would use heat plumbers dope commonly used to seal threads <A> Old fixtures are likely bronze ( copper , tin ,+ maybe Zn and Pb), very unlikely copper. <S> I have reached into the bore with a hacksaw blade ;you may need to grind down the back of the blade to fit into the bore. <S> Try not to damage the female threads . <S> I have done it a few times with steel, bronze should be easy. <S> You will probably need to make two cuts, then take a screwdriver and pry the cut halves away from the female threads. <S> A recip saw is much faster but much higher risk of damaging female threads. <S> Holding the hacksaw blade with vicegrips works well.
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works great but turns rock hard after a few years , I have found heat the only way to remove in the past, if this is a copper pipe to a brass fitting that is sweated heat will be the only way to remove it unless you cut it then use a shark bite to repair the stub , again I prefer heat, but a photo of the part may provide us the information to give exact instructions.
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What is a solid beginner 3D modeling software to use to replace paper and pen for home projects? I like to make home projects, for example building a bed or a loft or a soundproof room. I also want to design my own house to build. Currently I do the old paper and pen method, but this is limited. I'm finally considering learning some basic 3D modeling. What is a good easy 3D modeling software with a low learning curve to use for this type of thing? I am an expert in photoshop so I am very competent with computers, I just don't have the time to spend many hours learning 3D modeling software - it's actually faster to use paper and pen the old way than spend all that time learning the software. So, I'm hoping to use a 3D software that will give me greater benefit and flexibility on home projects and home design while not spending too much time learning the software itself. In addition in the longer term I want to learn building personal projects like designing inventions for a 3D printer etc. Free or paid software are open. Whichever is best for my utility. Which software should I start with? <Q> I've used sketchup for making plans and blender for 3D modeling. <A> It is a CAD program designed for working in 3D as its primary tool set. <S> It can produce scale drawing PDFs, renders, and even produce G Code for CNC machines. <S> It was easier to learn for me than SketchUp, but that might just be a function of how my brain operates. <A> OnShape is also popular with hobbyists, and is browser based <S> so there's no install <S> and it's cross platform. <S> Any drawings made with the free version are public - anyone can view and copy them. <S> Often you can find someone else's drawing that's close to what you need, take a copy and modify it. <S> Whatever package you choose, I advise spending half an hour working through the first couple of tutorials - otherwise it can be extremely frustrating trying to guess how you're supposed to do things. <S> For some reason CAD seems harder to learn than most applications.
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TinkerCAD is one of the easiest 3D drawing programs to learn. Consider Autodesk Fusion 360 which has a free hobbyist license that has full modelling functionality.
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Can I use only one phase out of a triphasic cable? Scenario There is a three-phase cable popping out of the wall exactly where I need to put a light bulb. Is it ok if I plug only two wires to the triphasic cable, (i.e. neutral and live 1) to achieve this? Further questions What consequences would this have (e.g. consumption?, stability?) Context At home I have identified two types of cables: single phase cables (with their expected three wires inside). three-phase cables (five wires inside). The latter has two outputs, one in the kitchen for the stove/oven, while there is another cable in the toilet (most prob for the washing machine), which I don't use at all. <Q> <A> In germany, the mains that enter a building are typically triphasic. <S> The three phases are then distributed throughout the house. <S> So, any wallsocket is connected to safety earth, neutral and one of the three phases. <S> In principle that's what you describe. <S> But : an electronic mains socket must be fused somewhere <S> (do you know how your triphasic cable is fused?)! <S> The electritian doing your installation has to take care of that. <S> Working on the mains has the potential to kill you and (at least in germany) you are not allowed to do electrical installations if you are no electritian ( <S> and I don't want to encourage you to do so). <A> Technically it will work. <S> But you must be aware that in some regions (and this can change within the same country) single phase is not achieved by using one phase and neutral, but by using two phases. <S> You must check this otherwise your light bulb may explode. <S> One way to know that is to open the fuse box and check how circuit breakers are connected: With one phase and a neutral or with two phases. <S> There is also the safety concern. <S> A tri phased cable will be protected by a tri phased circuit breaker and it won't work as well as a single phase breaker. <S> Instead of using the cable right away, I would look where it goes, and if it goes straight to the fuse box <S> and it's not needed for anything else, replace the tri phased breaker for a single phase breaker with preferably a much lower amperage (2A for example). <S> Tri phase breakers have usually very high amperage which is less safe. <S> Even worse, it may be connected to the general circuit breaker of the building. <S> If the cable is used for something else, add a small box with a single phase circuit breaker at the end of the cable, just for this light bulb. <S> Seems a lot for a light bulb, but later, you don't regret it.
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If it was a large load, e.g. an outlet, you would need to make sure the load on each phase was reasonably balanced, Having a lighting circuit on a different breaker to the rest of the house lighting is frowned at, as if that circuit trips, the light goes out, equally someone later on perhaps wanting to replace that light socket will switch off the lighting breaker, if they fail to test the light socket afterwards, they will have a nasty surprise. If there is a provided neutral wire, for most countries it should be fine, Consequences:
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Why are "horseshoe" shims shaped the way they are? Here's an example of the type of shim I'm referring to: They are sold marketed for various uses - tile spacers, leveling window or door frames, etc. They are non-tapered. Its not clear to me why the specific horseshoe shape is beneficial . Why not just a simpler flat piece of plastic? Or a more conventional circular "washer" shape if a central open area is needed? If anything due to the thinness of the material, the ones I've used (1/8" and 1/16") are pretty fragile, which is a slight disadvantage of the shape. (ie it covers a large surface area without commensurate strength). I assume these were invented for some specific applications ... what are they? <Q> I used these extensively in my kitchen remodel. <S> Wood shims always seem to split on me. <S> And, since I live in a humid area, wood shims disintegrate over time. <S> Many of my original base cabinets have settled leaving a gap between the counter and the backsplash. <S> This is how I assumed that they should be used. <S> When hanging wall cabinets, you loosely tape them to the wall (open side down) where you think that the screw will be installed. <S> The screw goes inside the horseshoe, near the top. <S> The shim is now captive, the pressure should hold it, but if it doesn't the screw won't let it fall out. <S> Why not round? <S> Probably so you can insert them after the screw if necessary. <S> The horseshoe shims that I used were slightly different <S> , they had flexible tabs so they could be stacked. <A> I ran into this video: https://youtu.be/uGjY26i6xvU <S> which shows a builder dropping a shim on a screw used to attach something to a wall. <S> Alternatives here would be a solid shim (has to be placed on one side of the screw, making things uneven, or requires 2 shims) or a circle (harder to place correctly, doesn't give additional benefit). <S> The horseshoe shape allows it to be placed while the object is only loosely attached to the wall. <S> It will be held in place by the screw <S> so there's no need to hold it in place. <S> Another way to think of these is that they aren't a single shim; they're 2 shims joined together for ease of installation. <S> Any time you need to screw two things together, but still keep them from touching, you can just use one of these at each screw location and get good results. <A> Bypass nails/obstacles <S> Material wise they will be more efficient with more support area per unit of material. <S> Under a window where the window may allow water to leak on the rough opening sill if you install the open end on the low side of a positive drainage plane any water that leaks into the open area can flow out. <S> These shims are often trimmed, it is likely easier to trim the ends of the horseshoe than a full side of a circle. <S> Handling <S> /Gripping a horseshoe is easier than a washer, I feel like you can have a better grip on less of the material. <S> The horseshoe shape is good luck and nailed to the wall of a house is supposed to keep the devil out. <S> Can't hurt to have some good luck in your build.
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It is easier to hit and direct a horseshoe with a hammer than a circle - more directional control when placing into tight opening. In tile application they can end up stuck and you want to be able to get a good hole on the portion that is sticking out so you can pull them.
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Hole in countertop too big for faucet I took out an old insta-hot faucet in our kitchen countertop and the hole that had been drilled was too big in diameter for any newer water filter faucet. The diameter of the hole is around 1.5" while the diameter of the faucet fixture cover is barely that large. Unfortunately the new faucet moves around a lot and we want to find something we can plug the hole with to create a more secure seal. The surface material of the countertop is Corian. I was thinking something like epoxy might work, but I also don't want to make this too permanent so I can't remove the water fixture if it breaks. Any suggestions on epoxies or other materials I should look at to make the seal a bit tighter around our water faucet? Any tips? We're talking about half an inch in diameter or so to fill. <Q> As the chrome cover seems to cover the hole then I would make a wood or plastic or metal collar that fits in the existing hole and has a suitable diameter hole for your new tap. <S> Make it sufficient thickness to suit. <S> If you still have an offcut of the worktop you could make it from that. <S> Even consider gluing it into place but the next tap may need the larger hole... <A> It would be large enough to cover the existing hole in the counter top and have a hole in the middle that is the correct size for the new faucet. <S> This may be a tough ask, so you may need to make one out of 3/8 or 1/2" plywood. <S> Using a hole saw, cut a circle out of the piece of plywood large enough to fit securely over the hole in the counter top. <S> Using a smaller diameter saw, just large enough for the new faucet to fit through, use the same pilot hole in your disk to guide the saw to make the new faucet's hole. <S> Since this will be used in a damp location, you may want to use pressure treated lumber, or, you may want to seal the whole thing in epoxy to protect it from any potential leaks. <S> If, of course, you have metal working tools (or know someone who does), you could make this out of a sheet of much thinner metal. <S> You could probably use a hole-saw designed for cutting metal to do this, but I'd suggest that you use a drill press as you'll need to cut slowly and keep it lubricated to avoid overheating the bit & the metal. <S> Place your new faucet through the hole in the counter top. <S> Place the washer over the stem from below. <S> Screw on the mounting nut that came with the faucet. <S> You may also want to cut a "washer" to use as a filler donut to go inside the hole in the counter top to prevent the faucet from wobbling. <S> Repeat the steps above, but make the outer diameter just large enough to be a snug fit into the counter top hole. <S> A little bit of silicone caulk between the donut and the counter top should prevent wiggle and water ingress, yet still be removable if a larger faucet stem needs to be installed in the future. <S> The drawback to this method is that the stem of the new faucet may not be long enough to go through the counter top and <S> the new washer (especially one made of wood). <A> An option that uses either epoxy or pretty much any quick-set material which hardens in place is to line both the hole in the countertop and the barrel of the new faucet with plastic wrap. <S> Then center the faucet barrel in place and tape or otherwise seal the bottom of the hole. <S> Pour in the liquid material and wait until hardened. <S> Granted <S> this is close to something Professor Branestawm would do :-)
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I'd suggest a new washer that goes on the bottom of the counter top.
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Contractor is installing a vinyl fence and posts but is not using any water with concrete. Is he doing it right? I hired a reputable local company to install 6 foot vinyl fence around my yard. Salesman was telling me how they would be using cement to hold the post in place. To my surprise I see the workers use dry cement mix with no water or sand or anything in the holes for poles. When asked about it, they saying that "water from the ground and rain" will activate the cement and its better to do it this way than pouring wet cement. Is this correct? I even called the company and they said that this is how they are doing it for everyone. <Q> I put some posts into concrete - made a dry mix and tamped it down. <S> Next day it was just about done - the mix absorbed moisture from the surrounding soil and was fine. <S> If you need a really smooth top surface then adding a wetter screed is a possibility. <A> Unless you are in a extremely dry area this is fine. <S> The concrete mix will absorb moisture from air and surrounding soil and will slowly set. <S> Usually a couple of days is all it takes. <S> Some rain or a bucket of water will speed up the process, but isn't really needed. <S> In fact, poured concrete is more in danger off being over-saturated with water, which dilutes the mix too much or flushes part of the mix away. <S> If you expect the posts to get a lot of lateral pressure while curing (like the fence catching a lot of wind) you may want to speed up the curing a little bit to prevent the posts being pushed out of vertical before the concrete is set enough. <S> But a temporary brace at an angle serves just as well. <A> This is a common technique for setting posts in the ground. <S> Here is a video from Quickcrete that explains how to do it: <S> Quickcrete Dry Mix Post Setting <A> This is perfectly fine unless you live in a desert where it never rains. <S> I've seen Florida Public Works workers build a concrete catch basin for a large pipe that passed under a road, and they used full, sealed bags of concrete mix and simply stack the bags in a gradual stair-step arrangement. <S> When they were done and everything was neatly stacked, they punched a hole in each bag with a tool -- <S> that's all -- and they left. <S> It rains every day for half of the year in this part of Florida, and the catch basin was soon a solid mass. <S> A year later, the paper and plastic that the bags were made of was noticeably breaking down, and two years later all the paper and plastic was gone and the catch basin looked like it was made of concrete pillows. <S> It's been at least 20 years at this writing, and the catch basin still looks fine. <A> Concrete hardens through a process called hydration. <S> As you'd guess by the name, water is required. <S> It's common practice to place dry post mix with a pool of water standing on top. <S> I haven't seen anybody just pour in the dry mix and walk away, but I guess if the climate is sufficiently wet and/or humid, then maybe.. <S> In either case, eventually that concrete will get enough water to cure to some degree. <S> The concrete resulting from dry-placed methods ends up weaker than a wet mix with the right amount of water. <S> It's easy to tell the difference when breaking the concrete off a post with a sledge hammer -- the stuff that was done dry often falls apart with a single blow. <S> In my opinion, the only reason it might be "better" to do concrete this way is that it saves the installer the trouble of mixing concrete, placing it before it sets too much, cleaning tools, and disposing of excess/waste concrete. <S> In other words, it's "better" because it's faster, cheaper, easier for the contractor.
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As long as the soil is stable (no expansion/shrinking) it's probably alright to have weak concrete surrounding the post.
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Replacing a ceiling rose with a led light without using wire connectors I have two ceiling rose lights in my corridor, I have managed to replace one without the need of any wiring connector. I achieved this because it had one Live, one neutral and one earth connector.So all I did was connect L and N to the new LED light and cover the earth wire with some tape.The new LED doesn't require earth However, I have now realised the other ceiling rose has several wires(a search suggested that this is due that being the main one) I did some search and found that when it comes to converting these type of wires, you need connectors (wago connectors)I don't understand the purpose of these, are these connectors really necessary? Can't the wires that can't be used, just be taped? I'm based in the UK The first ceiling rose that I converted by taping the earth wire(this picture show the setup was) The following is the picture of the other ceiling rose, which I found to have too many wires on UPDATE This is the photo of all the wires after being removed from the ceiling rose setup. Marked in Yellow : 4 earth wires, connected in pairs - I'm thinking of putting this in a wire connectors of five Marked in blue/purple : 5 wires connected to a 3 slot section(Neutral). these were connected in pairs of two black together, two(one blue and black together) and one blue that goes to the actual light - I'm thinking of connecting them to a wire connector of 5 Marked in green : connected to a 3 slots sections(Loop), all three were red wires were connected separately - I'm thinking of connecting them to a wire connector of three Marked in red : three wires connected to a section of two(Live), one pair(consisting of a red wire and green/yellowish) and one red wire coming from the light - I'm thinking of connecting these to a three slots wire connector. Do you think the setup I'm going for is correct? <Q> Taping wires (rather than using proper wire connectors) is a recipe for burning your house down. <S> Whether it's just two wires or a whole bunch, a taped connection is prone to loosen, and arc, and start fires. <S> Don't know where you are in the world, but virtually any place with any sort of electrical code, that method will not pass. <S> Regardless of code, you should be interested in not setting your house on fire. <S> Interested enough to use a proper connector type available and approved in your part of the world, rather than "not understanding" but choosing to do electrical work anyway... <A> You cannot "just tape" any electrical connection! <S> This will not meet the building/electrical code in any sane locale. <S> Electrical tape will degrade and fall off over time. <S> You'll end up with loose wires behind your light fixtures. <S> The least of your worries at this point is that your light will not work. <S> Wires need to be held tightly together. <S> If they're not, any movement (yes, your whole house will vibrate slightly with every step you take) will cause the wires to wiggle loose. <S> Loose wires will start to arc causing heat and, eventually, fire. <S> This will prevent the arcing mentioned above and prevent you from burning your house down. <S> When the wire insulation is stripped to the proper length, the connectors will also provide insulation preventing the hot & neutral from touching each other in the box, shorting out and causing a fire. <S> NO, you cannot just tape electrical connections! <A> Your job has been made harder by paint. <S> Your live wire needs to go where the wire from the pendant that is brown goes, your neutral wire to where the wire from the pendant that is blue goes. <S> The existing pendant wire seems to have no earth, but at the back of the picture I see some painted over green and yellow wires; add the earth connection where those go. <S> And when I say "where the X goes" I mean the terminal block. <S> Do not attempt to form a junction with insulation tape.
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NO, you cannot just tape electrical connections! Wago connectors, wire nuts or other code-approved wire connectors are designed to provide a solid, vibration-proof mechanical and electrical connection between two or more wires.
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Removing rusted screw and wingnuts from toilet tank My toilet tank is held in place by two screws, which have rusted so much that the shape in their head is almost completely disappeared.On the opposite side, they are held in place by two wingnuts made from plastic. I tried to losen one of them with pliers, but that only ended up in one wing breaking off. Main question is: what is the best way to get it off, given the wingnuts ? I'm aware of this other question , and this is the answer I like most, which suggest using a mechnaic's nut cracker, but I have a few follow-up questions to that: Is there a way to remove the bolts without cutting/drilling/breaking them? (Not that I need them, I'm just afraid of damaging the tank or the bowl in the process.) E.g., I read somewhere else that WD-40 might be enough, but did anyone actually try this with success? Also, where would I put it: between the wingnuts and the toilet bowl? Or below the head of the bolt? (It would be quite difficult to get into both places...) Or maybe with some rust-solvent? Can the wingnuts also be broken by the mechanic's nut cracker? (Obviously, plastic would be easier to break than metal, but the shape might not make it easy to access.) Also, as far as I see, this is a tool mostly for car shops (as the name suggests), so I guess a plumber would use some other tool. Which one would it be? The two rusty bolts inside the tank: A wingnut: EDIT: Proper name for wingnuts . UPDATE: Thanks everyone for the input. Yesterday I was able to remove one wingnut by gripping it really hard with pliers adjustable sized wrench. However, the screw itself is stuck, together with one gasket on the top, and one on the bottom. The other one moved too a few turns, but it came to the point that now it is rotating together with the screw (and I could not find a way to stop the screw, because the head is so rusted). <Q> When I had the same problem, I took a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder to the bolt heads. <S> Just be careful and try not to touch the grinder to the porcelain. <S> Also dont grind so long that you heat up the bolts to much and be careful not to melt any plastic bits in the toilet with the grinder spray. <S> When you are done grinding, make sure you clean out all the slag and dirt that you generate. <S> If you only grind inside the tank, you dont have to worry if you slip a little, any marks you make will be hidden when you close the tank lid! <A> It's called a wingnut. <S> I see the rust on the bolt heads in the tank. <S> Are they also rusted under the wingnuts? <S> Those wingnuts should be replaceable at your local home center. <S> Have you checked? <S> If so, try some WD40 or other penetrating oil under the wingnut and let it sit for a few minutes and then try turning them with large pliers or vise grips putting equal pressure on both wings. <S> If they break off just replace them. <S> The bolts and gaskets under them should also be available for purchase. <A> The plastic nuts put you in a better position than you might otherwise be, I think. <S> While a nut cracker would be difficult to apply to a wingnut, much less under a toilet tank, a pair of locking pliers or similar "high force" tool should be able to break (crush) <S> the plastic nut <S> so you can get the rusted bolts out. <S> Example, not endorsement: <A> Based on the updated info about the screws and bolts being tightly rusted together, I'd suggest 2 things: A heavy dose of a rust remover <S> I've had good success with PB Blaster™ in the past, but any similar product should work. <S> Give it a good several hours (or even over night) to soak in and do its job. <S> Put a disposable bowl under each nut to catch drips <S> - you don't want it ruining the flooring. <S> If that doesn't loosen things up, I'd suggest the use of a hacksaw on the nut under the bottom of the tank/bowl. <S> Cut as close to the top of the nut as you possibly can. <S> You should be able to get most, if not all, of the nut cut off the bolt. <S> If you can't get it all cut off, once you're down to a thin layer of nut remaining, you should be able to break the rest of the rusty bits off. <S> A hand-tool is less likely to cause damage to the porcelain coating because you're moving much slower than a power tool <S> would <S> and you'll notice very quickly if you are starting to cause damage. <S> You'll have the opportunity to stop and adjust at the lightest of scratches whereas a power tool will do notable damage before you have a chance to react. <S> Instead of sawing, use the nut cracker from the question linked in the OP. <S> If there is still concern about breaking the bowl/tank, hack sawing through part of the bolt (option 2) will leave much less material to be broken by the nut cracker, making its job easier. <A> Thanks for all the suggestions. <S> It turned out that under the wingnuts there were also hex-nuts holding the bolts in place. <S> I added some WD40 on the top of the bolts, and after one day, the right bolt came off quite easily (with a wrench and a screw driver). <S> _____ <S> <--- bolt head <=========== <S> > <--- hard plastic gasket ------------- <--- rubber gasket ======== <--- hole in the tank <========= <S> > <--- hard plastic gasket === <S> <--- hexnut (stuck) | | <S> | <---> <--- wingnut <S> (stuck) <S> | <S> However, the left bolt was stuck and corroded together with the hex-nut (even the wingnut got stuck) and even the slot on the top of the bolt was almost totally eroded (so I could not use a screw driver, I was trying to hold it with pliers).So in the end <S> I cut the top solid plastic gasket with a knife and pulled off the rubber gasket below it. <S> My original plan was to have a better grip on the head, with the pliers in this way, but suddenly the bolt just fell through the hole (which was much bigger than its head). <S> TL;DR: <S> I cut off the top plastic gasket and removed the rubber gasket on top, and at that point the bolt was free.
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See if you can loosen it by grasping the screw head with one pair of locking pliers and the nut with another pair.
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Does the ground bar on a subpanel need to be bonded to the subpanel? I had a lightning strike near my house that damaged the electric in my shed and now I need to replace the subpanel. I have a question about the groundbar. In the subpanel I am replacing the grouond and neutral bars were isolated, but the ground bar was not bonded to the subpanel itself. When I replace this subpanel should I attach a bonding screw from the ground bar to the subpanel? Thanks, <Q> Yes the grounding side needs to be bonded to the metal case the neutral or grounded side is isolated from the case. <A> I recommend you leave both of those as neutral bars, and add some accessory ground bars, which are $6-ish, each. <S> Otherwise you will run out of neutral bar locations long before you run out of spaces. <S> Neutral bars are hard to add. <S> At the very least, use the left one for neutrals. <S> It has a better chance of being able to support all the breakers this panel can support. <S> You can never double-tap neutral lugs. <S> But many panels will allow you to triple-tap ground bars, which means you would be able to get enough grounds out of the right side bar. <S> Also, since this is an outbuilding, it needs a disconnect switch. <S> Where is it? <S> If you have none, and this panel is convertible to main breaker, that would suffice. <S> Otherwise you'll need to either backfeed a breaker, fit a separate disconnect switch (generally more expensive) or use a different panel. <A> Neutrals are precious as you can't "double up" neutral wires, and most panels don't support accessory neutral bars. <S> So, instead of using the factory split neutral facility, I would fit the panel with an Eaton GBK10, move the grounding wires to it, then reinstall the cross bonding strap between the two neutral bars. <S> (P.S. if you threw it away, just poke your local Eaton distributor and ask them to order in a 80-20657-15; if they give you a puzzled look, ask them to email the Eaton TRC re: " <S> Cross Strap Replacement attn: Hannah", and <S> the TRC should get back to them with ordering instructions for the part.) <S> Once that's done, you'll want to address the lack of a disconnecting means for the outbuilding. <S> This can be done using a BREQS125 hold-down kit and a BR2100 breaker used as a disconnect switch. <S> Finally, you'll need to take some #6 bare copper and run it from the panel grounding bar to two 8' ground rods driven into the ground a minimum of 6-8' apart; that way, your shed's electrical system will stand a better chance of surviving the next lightning strike.
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It's probably best to get a separate ground bar The only place both the grounding and grounded conductors are connected together is in the main but both panels need the case bonded to the grounding buss.
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Equalizing upstairs and downstairs temperatures when A/C is on Our A/C unit is in the attic in an unfinished area on the second floor. The A/C thermostat is in the finished area on the other side of the wall from the unit. As expected, the the second floor is generally several degrees warmer than the downstairs and we have the A/C thermostat set at what is for us a comfortable 76 degrees. It appears to be working as expected, but while the upstairs is kept at 76 degrees, the downstairs is generally about 5 degrees colder. Would a simple solution be to partially close some (all?) of the downstairs A/C vents help to raise the temperature there - I would experiment by gradually making small changes? Or would partially closing the vents in any way hamper the efficient running of the A/C? Thanks. <Q> Cold air always sinks (gosh ! :-) ), so the stable condition will pretty much always have the lower floor ending up cooler than the upper floor. <S> There should be dampers in the ductwork close to the heat exchanger (in the attic) and those are designed to adjust flow rates for each path. <S> If those weren't installed, go ahead and partially close whatever dampers are at the exit points of the downstairs vents. <A> Seems like your system is probably arranged pretty well. <S> You can try closing some of the downstairs vents, but keep in mind this increases your risk of having ice form in the evaporator. <S> The reason is this: with some vents closed the unit will have less air flowing through. <S> Less air flowing through means the discharge air at the vents that remain open will get colder. <S> That discharge air being colder means the evaporator is running colder -- and when its temperature drops below freezing ice starts forming. <S> Ice in the evaporator blocks airflow, it gets even colder, and it can quickly cascade into a situation where the whole thing is blocked with ice and won't thaw until you shut the thing off for several hours. <S> Nevertheless: give it a try. <S> Your system may be operating far enough from the freezing point that you won't have any problem. <S> If it does start freezing, you'll now know why and what to do about it (re-open the downstairs vents). <A> You could use a ceiling fan. <S> A device similar to this was designed for such a purpose. <S> You can reverse the air flow based upon the season. <S> Thermal Equalizing <S> Note <S> : I have not used this particular product -- not an endorsement. <S> IT is designed to circulate the air between the ceiling and the floor. <S> Back in the day, there was a long tube with a fan in it that was mounted against a wall or post, etc. <S> This looks like a newer version. <S> Of course, adding insulation to the unfinished area helps (if there isn't any now). <S> I would be reluctant to close vents as it changes the airflow and load on the blower. <S> I is even possible to REDUCE the total airflow in the entire system -- exactly the opposite of what you want.
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Yes, closing downstairs vents will help balance things out, and at least avoid overshoot in the downstairs temperature. This is a common problem in warehouses and homes with high ceilings.
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Why is my Water Heater Leaking only when I open the Pressure valve? I woke up today to a full drip pan under the gas water heater and my utility room slowly flooding with water. Of course the drip pan was never connected to a drain and overflowing. After shutting off the water to the water heater the flooding stopped completely. I did some investigation and noticed whenever I manually open the top mounted pressure valve I can tell that some water is discharged through the connected pipe, but I can also hear an amount of water flowing down somewhere inside the water heater . I cannot see any water or wetness when looking closely at the valve connection at the top. I am not sure where the water could be leaking inside the unit. The relief valve is connected to pipe that does not drain into the pan btw. It leaves the room through the wall behind the water heater and does not show any signs of leakage. Could it help to replace the pressure valve? Is it likely there is a hole in the tank somewhere, but if so why doesn't it leak all the time but only when I open the pressure valve? I am planning to buy a pressure meter today and check the house water pressure as well as test the pressure on the heater when I reopen the water supply. Will update later with readings. *Update: I did test the pressure and the house pressure was a little high (75psi, which I now lowered to 65). I also found where the water comes into the drip pan. It is right from the burning chamber, but again, it only flows when I open the pressure relief valve on top of the unit. I can also hear air bubbles moving up while having the relief valve open, so the outflow is replaced by air. (See new photo with markings) Added photos: Original Photos: <Q> Check the age of the tank. <S> The lining is most likely leaking. <S> The pressure vent doing what it is suppose to do, When you manual release the pressure through that valve, water is allowed to escape. <S> The real leak is in the lining, and dripping down to the bottom of the tank. <S> If the bottom is above your drain pan, you should be able to water dripping from the bottom of the tank. <S> Replacing the relief valve is not going to fix the leak. <A> It turned out the heater was leaking in general. <S> After some more trial and error the leak started when the pressure relief valve was closed but the cold water supply line nut was losened slightly (so that air could get into the tank). <S> And after the pressure was reduced more the leak just kept going no matter what. <S> So for some strange reason the tank pressure was holding something in place that was plugging the leak from the inside (maybe sediment?). <S> I assume the previous owners didn't maintain the water heater properly (we bought the house 2 years ago). <S> There is also a chance the water softener we installed accelerated the decay. <S> I drained it, uninstalled and will replace with tankless model ($900 gov. incentives for me right now). <S> That should go along with our water softener. <S> Unfortunately the model I want has a two week delivery time. <S> No hot showers for a while... <A> I’m not too shure <S> but if you turned water off and it’s no longer leaking dry <S> it all up turn it back on run some hot water <S> so it starts to run then <S> see if you can spot it ?? <S> Don’t know how long it’s been leaking but check color of water or any discoloration around it <S> but it’s <S> probably gd gd unless you had some work done around it/ flooring check bottom of it if still nothing
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It was leaking before you touch the relief valve.
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What wire do I run to feed 120v driveway lights a total length of 500' from the switch? I am running 5 - 8'lamp posts down my driveway a total of 400-500 linear feet. The lights will be 120v and will have LED bulbs vs. incandescent. Even though the total watts will be no more than 60 W, I know there will be voltage drop.Thank-you <Q> Plug your scenario into a voltage drop calculator . <S> If the entire 60W (0.5A at 120V) <S> load is at the end of the run (which it isn't, but makes the calculation simple - your actual results will be better), 14 AWG copper wire fed by 120V has only 1% voltage drop. <S> If you go up to 300W (2.5A at 120V) <S> the drop would be 5.26%, which is still fine. <S> You could run 12 AWG copper instead if you want the future flexibility to run a much larger lighting load, or to do something like adding receptacles at the posts. <S> The price difference should be relatively small compared to your full project budget. <A> There are voltage drop <S> calculators <S> online <S> you can toy with if you would like. <S> The NEC advises 3% loss for branch circuits and 5% for total loss from service (which at a residential service can be considered one-in-the-same if all services on a transformer are similar lengths from the transformer.) <S> 0.5 amps (calculated 60w/120v=0.5A) at the end of 500 feet with #14 will give you about 1.5% drop, and your current gets reduced in increments so it is likely the circuit will function just fine with wire as small as #14. <S> Would I use #14? <S> Absolutely not! <S> No way would I do all that digging then be unable to use the circuit for anything else. <S> Some day I'm going to find myself wanting to add some Christmas lights, or a cement mixer. <S> With conduit I might pull #12 because it could be replaced in sections, if UF I would use #10. <A> Lights only For a 15A circuit, you will need #14 wire, and your voltage drop will be less than 1.12%. <S> (I assumed all 5 lights are at the far end). <S> For a 20A circuit, you will need #12 wire regardless because you can't put #14 on a 20A circuit. <S> NOT NM-B (Romex). <S> If the circuit is GFCI protected, burial depth is 12" of cover. <S> Otherwise it's 24" if direct buried or 18" if in conduit. <S> Lights and receptacle <S> With a receptacle at the far location, you will need 6 AWG copper wire resulting in a 4.60% voltage drop with a common 1500W appliance in use (NOT with the lights). <S> This is the point where you should be considering aluminum wire, and that would require #4 aluminum. <S> 240V to reduce wire size <S> 240V lights are readily available (your LED lights may already be). <S> Is it worth evaluating? <S> Not just for the lights. <S> But it changes everything for the receptacle. <S> That's not so bad.
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If you are willing to use a 240/120V stepdown transformer, perhaps a portable one that you take to the recep location you want to use that day. That would let you use #12 wire and have 4.52% voltage drop assuming a 1500W appliance in use at the far location. Remember you must use outdoor rated wire
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Is there a revolving small flat file for a drill? I would like to file down (just a bit) a metal tube's end to make it completely flat. See a drawing of it in another question of mine on this site Fix a faucet that has a groove . Taking that drawing as the case, I would like to file it from what in the drawing is the top, in order for that top to be flat instead of having that groove. In reality the groove is very small, but it's big enough to cause a bit of a drip to pass through it despite a rubber part closing it from the top. I was thinking that if there is some revolving small flat file for a drill, something like the following drawing (the flat black part being reminiscent of sandpaper): I could point the drill towards the tube and file the edge so that there will be no groove and the rubber part will close it hermetically. I can't get to the tube's edge from the side because it's surrounded by another tube which goes farther than its edge. But I can get to it from the top. I remember seeing something like what I'm looking for but much bigger (and perhaps for wood) and I can't find any images of it now. I'm probably using the wrong keywords. So does such a file exist, and if so, what is it called? EDIT Perhaps the rubber part that closes on the pipe is called a compression faucet valve cartridge. I can't cut it off from the side. Unfortunately there is absolutely no access from the side. As mentioned in a comment, the term seems to be a sanding disc. But at least so far, I can't find any narrow ones with a diameter of under an inch. Do those exist? I just remembered where I've seen them - at the dentist. Though I assume dentists' tools would be super expensive. I just need an attachment for a drill. EDIT 2 Here's the best I could do (a cross section of what I have): The dotted yellow line is what I need to file. Its diameter is a little under half an inch (around 1 cm). The green is the rubber part that's supposed to seal it. <Q> It sounds like what you are describing here (and in the other thread) is called the "seat" for the valve stem washer, and usually that seat is replaceable for this exact reason. <S> If it is replaceable, the inside will have a geometric shape, usually hexagonal, sometimes square (or the corners of a square cut into the sides of a round opening, see below), to accept a tool that us used to unscrew and remove it. <S> Here is an example of a bad faucet seat, one with a "groove" in it like you describe. <S> You typically cannot see anything but the end when you remove the valve stem, so you may not have known that this is a separate piece. <S> But if you look on this photo, the insides are hexagonal, so you can use a hex key tool to remove it. <S> They are almost always made of brass so that they do not corrode and become impossible to remove, but it sometimes takes some effort. <S> Once you do so, take it to a hardware store and you can buy new seats, they are cheap. <S> They will come in pairs, replace them both because if one is corroded, the other one probably is not far from it too. <S> Here is an example of the type that needs a square tool. <A> Be aware that these tend to be very brittle and will crumble with even very light force along the shaft axis. <S> If you don't actually need to do any grinding, a cutoff bit might do as well. <S> These are much more durable. <A> You may need a similar attachment that is a sanding drum for a Dremel - like tool. <S> https://cdn3.volusion.com/bkxfh.dqbfy/v/vspfiles/photos/drum100-pcs-2.jpg?v-cache=1535212293 <S> -Pic courtesy of volusion.com <S> They're small diameter usually less than 1". <A> As mentioned in a comment, the term would be "sanding disc", and I've found that it's better to search for "sanding disc for drill". <S> However all of those I've found have been too wide. <S> Perhaps a dentist's rotary sander would be best. <S> I did find something similar, thanks to the comments' help, which was an Aluminum Oxide grinding piece. <S> I've even found one <S> that's pretty narrow . <S> Maybe I can use its top side. <A> You might be able to take a spade bit and slowly rotate it on that yellow line to shave away excess material. <S> Assuming the material is plastic or a soft metal like copper then it should work quite well. <S> Not sure how well you can control a drill <S> but it might be worthwhile to put the spade bit on a screwdriver for better precision. <S> Not sure what size is appropriate for your application but below is a Bosch Daredevil spade bit. <S> Sidenote: it's my absolutely favorite because the screw head sucks into wood applications <S> and I don't have to exert much pressure on the drill itself. <S> You could also get a grinding wheel if the sanding discs from the other answer are too brittle.
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A sanding or grinding disc intended for a rotary tool will do nicely.
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Should my AC condenser and evaporator be the same size? It's difficult to find a consistent straight answer on this. I asked earlier today on Reddit, and was told "It’s common to upsize the indoor (evaporator) coil to get greater efficiency" . When I search "next size up evaporator greater efficiency" , these are the top results: "Yes, it’s bad if your evaporator coils are sized bigger or smaller than your condenser coils." People arguing 9 years ago on a forum about whether you want the condenser smaller or larger. Little agreement suggests people don't know what they're talking about. "Matching Evaporator and Condenser Coils – An Absolute Must" Number 6 says "Mismatched Coils Can Really Mess Things Up" . Number 5 says "I usually go a half ton larger on the evap coil. The added surface area slows airflow and you get better heat and dehumidification." , while the answer to "Can you Oversize an evaporator coil?" says the exact opposite: "After extensive research, we have found that having a matched or oversized evaporator coil will not control humidity enough. Rather it increases the humidity level in the home, especially at night. The reason is that the evaporator cannot get cold enough to properly dehumidify the air, causing your air to feel sticky and humid." I've tried other search phrases, and the results are generally the same: all over the place. I think this is a representative sample, so I won't bother exhaustively listing them all. What's the truth? Is there any evidence to back up the claims of a particular side? <Q> You have done a fair amount of research as you can see this an art and depending on what you want lower operating cost or dryer air the answer can be different. <S> To me <S> I like much dryer air for 2 reasons <S> the first is how much cooler and comfortable it feels, the second reason cool high humid conditions are a great mold factory in the ducts <S> I found this out later on industrial systems. <S> The control of your system also has some affect where the sizes are exact and a very high efficiency throttle valve system setup it may not get as cold and not remove as much moisture unless set on a less efficient setting, again it is a power savings vs comfort to get in the mid <S> to upper 20 seer <S> the coil is not as cold so not as much moisture is removed, but down around 18 seer the coil gets really cold and removes a bunch of moisture. <S> So even with a exact match there can be trade offs. <S> My split I think 23 or 24 seer has a dehumidifier setting that we cycle on 2-4 times a day depending on how humid it is. <S> Sorry to add another variable into your research but almost every system I have installed is slightly different <S> so there is not a one size fits all unless you have a system that can vary it’s <S> pumping rate then an equal match is best <S> so you have efficiency for most of the day and dehumidifier for a couple of hours. <A> A simpler answer to this may be that IF the A/C manufacturer could have made it more efficient by simply changing the coils, don't you think they would have? <S> On something like an AC unit, having a higher efficiency rating than a comparable competitive product is like printing money for a manufacturer. <S> If it would make a difference, they would have already done it. <S> There is no advantage to their design in having a less efficient model, in fact it would be a distinct DISADVANTAGE and would not save them any discernible costs. <A> Some matches are compatible and some aren't. <S> Every result will have a reference number. <S> If a particular match you're considering does not show up in the results, that is if it doesn't have a reference number, then it is not a good match.
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The Air Conditioning, Heating, and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI), an industry group, keeps a directory of known-good matches that can be searched, by condenser or evaporator model number, at https://www.ahridirectory.org/Search/SearchHome .
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Can insulation touch the roof sheathing in a sloped garage roof without soffit vents? I am beginning to install fiberglass insulation in my garage and want know if I have done the ceiling wrong. The issue is that the insulation touches the roof sheathing in the sloped area below that I marked in yellow. There are no soffit vents at the bottom of the sloped area. There are two triangular gable vents (one pictured, one on the other end) as well as a roof ridge vent. Do I need to remove the insulation I have installed and staple rafter vents to separate the insulation from the roof sheathing, or are they not needed in this area there aren't any soffit vents? Thank you. <Q> <A> This is old building code I am reciting, and I was an insulation installer for a while as well, for what its' worth. <S> You do not need soffit vents but it makes the venting more efficient. <S> Code required 1/150 per square feet worth of venting in a given attic. <S> My way of putting it may be rusty, but what it means is, if you have 150 sq ft of attic, to properly vent it, you will need 1 sq ft of "free area" for venting. <S> If soffit vents are used, the equation increases to 1/300 or 1 sq ft of venting for every 300 sq ft of attic. <S> So check the free area equivalent for your gable vents, since the measured dimensions do not mean free area. <S> The blades of the vents themselves offer restriction to the free flow of air and reduces efficiency of the vent. <S> It may reduce the efficiency by as much as 30 to 50%. <S> About the insulation touching the roof. <S> If the insulation is installed properly, there should be a 2" air space above the insulation to the sheathing. <S> In all practical purposes, this is should be easy to do if the rafters are 10" deep and the insulation is only 8". <S> If that is the case, the random touching of the insulation buckling up will not matter. <S> If you have 8" of insulation in an 8" rafter, then heat will build up and in essence "cook" your roofing. <S> A metal roof may be an exception, but standard composition shingles will degrade rapidly. <S> I seen it. <A> The reason you need ventilation is because warm air (vapor) will condensate when it travels from a warm environment to a cool environment. <S> This process is called “reaching the dew point”. <S> In your attic the inside air (vapor) will travel through the insulation. <S> When it reaches its dew point it will change from vapor to condensation. <S> That condensation needs to be vented in order to remove the condensation. <S> The Code requires “cross ventilation”. <S> Attic Ventilation shall be “cross ventilation “ and shall be 1/150th the area that is to be vented. <S> (See ICC R806 Vents.) <S> However, there is one exception: <S> The attic ventilation can be reduced to 1/300th the area to be vented provided one of the following items are met: 1) a Class I or II vapor retarder is installed on the “warm-in-winter” side of the ceiling, or 2) not less than 40% and not more than 50% of the ventilation is located in the upper portion of the attic. <S> The upper portion is defined as: “Upper ventilation shall not be lower than 3’ below the ridge or highest point of the roof. <S> “ <S> (See ICC R806.1.2.) <S> Also, the Code says you shall maintain a 1” minimum clearance between attic insulation and framing. <S> Summary: <S> So, you can see there is clearly a benefit to having ridge vents, gable vents, etc. <S> in addition to soffit vents, but in a proportion that allows COMPLETE CROSS-VENTILATION to the attic. <S> If you don’t install a soffit vent in each joist space, then the air cannot be vented...in each joist space. <S> That is to say, just having a ridge vent does not provide “cross ventilation”. <S> (You need an “in-ee” and an “out-ee” in each joist space.)
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With a ridge vent you need space for air flow so move the insulation or add more vents .
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Turning an HMO into a family home I am considering purchasing a house that for the past ten years has been an HMO (House of Multiple Occupancy - so each room is rented separately, with a shared kitchen). I'm in the UK. Because of this, what would have been the two downstairs reception rooms are currently styled as bedrooms, complete with en-suite shower room each. The ground floor of the house also has a bit of a weird flow to it (no floorplan available so I drew one based on a video tour of the house. thin lines are windows, open lines are doors; it's not to scale. red line shows original house before extension. The image is oriented with East at the top, and the back garden is east-facing. All dimensions are height x width as far as I can tell): Upstairs is fine, it's just a typical three-bed house (one en-suite and a family bathroom); all above the original home (i.e. the extension is single-story). I'm not against knocking down walls etc. What can I do to make this house feel like a family home, and flow better between rooms; and also get light into the dining room? My initial thoughts are: Move the front door to the right of the stairs, and extend the dining room down into the hallway (remove the wall to the left of the dining room door, add a wall joining to the under-stairs cupboard with a door in it) Remove the en-suite in the lounge and the dividing wall, and have patio doors out into the garden at the top of the image. From what I can see from old pictures, the lounge used to have that configuration anyway. I could then additionally add a door from the removed en-suite into the dining room, near the kitchen and block up the current door into the lounge. OR, perhaps, to make it more of a Q&A type question, what in general gives a family home good "flow"? or Would the suggestions I have made be feasible, what sort of costs would I be looking at, and would they help the flow? <Q> I used to live in a house with a dining room that had no outside windows (Also in the UK). <S> Similarly to yours it had a kitchen extension behind it (SW-facing. <S> It had a big window between the two, and a partially glazed door which we replaced with a fully glazed on (lots of little panes). <S> At the front we had a slight advantage over you - the dining room was semi-open-plan to the living room (it had a half height wall). <S> There was an RSJ as the original wall had been taken down. <S> The dining room was very dark when we moved in. <S> Just replacing the dark wallpaper with pale paint in the dining room itself and the lounge made a huge difference. <S> Improvements we made to the kitchen helped too. <S> In your case, I'd look at: Removing walls that have been added (e.g. probably those between bedrooms and their en-suites) Adding internal windows between the living spaces. <S> In fact it might be a matter of restoring original windows in the S (right) wall between the DR and lounge 2, as that was the original external wall, though L2 might have been converted from garage to a bedroom given the size and location. <S> Depending on how much light comes into L2 these will make a big difference (while L2's windows face S, they're neither front nor back windows <S> so could well be shaded by next door. <S> Adding internal windows/glazed doors (maybe double doors) between the dining room and hallway. <S> I wouldn't knock the wall down even if it's not structural: A front door and stairs in the living/dining room can be perceived as belonging to a cheap house, can be draughty, and with your open-plan layout into the kitchen could lead to cooking <S> smells in the bedrooms. <S> These ideas would be a little cheaper than yours while still opening the house out into something that feels more like a single home. <S> On thing to watch with HMOs is that extensions may have been built or garages converted on the cheap with little insulation in the right place, so before you get too far you should check. <A> Looking at the upstairs layout may help with this - if you are not sure then get a professional. <S> Which walls have pipes (heating, hot & cold, waste) and electrical services in them. <S> How will these need to be addressed? <A> If the kitchen is flat-roofed put in lantern lights (shown in yellow). <S> Remove the kitchen and decorate as a large central lounge. <S> Put only low seating in the former kitchen end, to avoid blocking light from the lounge. <S> Where you have "4.4m height here" as it's single storey you might also put in lantern lights or sun-pipes, and then have a new window wall between the new lounge and new dining room. <S> You'll probably need a structural engineer to calculate the steel required for the lintel. <S> This work will be subject to Building Regulations and will require a building regs application to your local authority.
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Knock through the study and bedroom 2, put a new kitchen in the study end and the dining room in bedroom 2. You need to decide what you want, but do consider the following: Make sure you know which walls are structural - these cannot be removed easily.
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Why does my re-plumbed shower come on whenever the tub faucet is opened? We recently bought this place and are in the middle of updating the bathroom. Bought all new tub/shower fixtures as well as a valve. Handyman installed and flushed/tested/etc. this new valve, and I’ve since installed the new spout, faucet, shower head. Things work okay, EXCEPT when the tub is on, the shower comes on. Not just a trickle! I’ve searched and searched to find a similar problem with answers in the forum, and what I’ve found is related to pex vs copper and shower height. Everything was copper before and still is. Also, we didn’t change the shower height. I did purchase a gooseneck shower arm to add a little bit of height/length, but it makes no difference. Not knowing much about water pressure, my gut is telling me it’s something to do with that and the new valve. It’s a pressure balancing valve that cost a good $90 and says it’s 20psi (seems low?). It fits the new faucet specifically. The old valve was a delta, and I don’t know if the previous owner had the same problem. We do live in the foothills and have high water pressure naturally. Also, although we have a VERY large and nearly new water heater, we seem to run out of hot water very quickly in the tub. Related? I have the drywall behind the fixtures open but don’t know where to go with it as of now. Any ideas? Thanks for reading. <Q> FIXED! <S> The problem was these little buggers inside the shark bites. <S> Don’t know why the handy man use shark bite instead of soldering, but those little plastic bits were restricting the flow enough to shoot everything right up to the shower. <S> Removed them, replaced everything, now the tub works as it should. <S> Holy smokes! <A> The tub has a shutoff, and when you shut tub the water pressure releases out the shower. <S> So with the limited information that I have right now I will take a guess at your problem. <S> You are getting hot and cold sent to valve. <S> And you have line from valve to tub. <S> I am guessing the line from valve to tub is too small. <S> If you have a valve/system that allows you to change water pressure then let the water run on a very low setting, and everything should go out the tub. <S> If you do not have a valve system that allows you to change water pressure, then: <S> You should be able to see the first few seconds go out the tub only. <S> You need to restrict your water pressure to your whole house (close your main 80%ish) and then test. <S> There is a chance that the valve can't spit out water to tub fast enough <S> (highly doubtful <S> but there is a chance). <S> This basically you starting over. <S> So before doing that can you give me the size copper of cold in and hot in <S> and then the size to tub and size to shower? <S> (also you could be running out of hot water quickly because you have a ton of water period running to this tub/shower) <A> There are basically two arrangements for diverting water from flowing out of the tub spout and up the shower pipe. <S> We call one a "spout diverter" arrangement. <S> With this arrangement, the pipe leading to the tub spout from the mixing valve(s) has a tee in the line and is always open to both the tub spout and the shower. <S> The tub spout is equipped with an integrated diverter valve to block flow out of the spout when desired. <S> The water flowing from the mixing valve(s) then has nowhere to go except up the shower pipe and out of the shower head. <S> NOTE: <S> the tub spout diverter valves are generally not designed to be a "tight shot-off", in other words there will always be some water flowing out of the tub spout. <S> ALSO: <S> any other restriction at the end of the tub spout will cause the same diversion of water up the shower pipe and out of the shower head. <S> The other arrangement , we call "mixing valve diverter". <S> This is where the mixing valve arrangement is equipped with an integrated valve for diverting water to either the tub or shower. <S> The tub spout pipe and the shower riser pipe are not connected at all. <S> The mixer valve arrangement has a seperate port for each, and has a diverter valve mechanism for sending water one way or the other depending on diverter valve position. <S> NOTE: <S> some mixing valve diverters will send water both ways if they are not fully set to one or the other position (or if they are malfunctioning). <S> ALSO: there are many, many (many, many, many) styles and types and each brand and model looks and operates differently.
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Most valves (all I have seen) meant for tub/shower send everything to the tub by default.
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Is it worth repairing this spigot? The hose spigot on my house leaks from the handle end, as you can see here: When I took it apart, the lower washer looked intact: However, I could not disassemble it any further to inspect the upper washer (which I assume is there, but who knows). It looks like the handle and the valve with the washer on it might be one piece (but, again, who knows). The house is seventy years old, and I'm assuming the spigot is original. The questions are: Repair or replace? Either way, is this a reasonable DIY job for a plumbing novice? <Q> I have rarely found a faucet I can not repair. <S> Yours needs a new valve stem packing no problem even if you cannot get the handle off. <S> Move the nut as far as you can to the handle. <S> I use expanded goretex rope for valve stem packing, some has graphite and is easy to install. <S> 1/2 a dozen wraps of this will solve most valve stem leaks. <S> I replace the washer when I do this screw the valve back on then tighten the jamb nut, if it still leaks you can loosen the jamb nut and put more wraps of packing, in a pinch I haven used the Teflon tape <S> quite a few more wraps are needed but it will seal. <S> Tighten the jamb nut and turn the water on again. <S> I have repaired valves that were over 100 years old doing this 5 minute repair procedure. <A> When a valve leaks from the top then the seal/washer/packing, that's under that nut <S> you can't remove because of the handle, is bad. <S> There should be a screw that secures the handle to the valve stem <S> but it could be corroded over. <S> I'd first try pouring some CLR on it to see if you can loosed up the handle. <S> You'd be good to go. <S> Replacing spigots is a relatively simple job. <S> You have turn off the water to the spigot and then remove the spigot from the pipe protruding from the wall. <S> A 12" adjustable wrench will usually do the trick. <S> A word of caution. <S> When turning the spigot counterclockwise to remove it, make sure only the spigot is turning and not the protruding pipe. <S> You don't want to disconnect the pipe on the wrong side of your shutoff <S> (Don't ask how I know this). <S> Then take your new spigot, apply some pipe dope and screw it on. <S> Turn on the water and check for leaks inside and out. <A> You can probably stop the stem leak by removing the handle ,then remove the packing nut, then wrap the stem with several turns of teflon tape. <S> The teflon makes good packing material. <S> Maybe the stem could use some polishing before putting on the tape. <S> New cheap brass valves will not give the service of that old bronze valve.
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Then you could stop by your plumbing supply store and get a new seal and also replace the bottom washer as it's pretty well compressed.
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Can I put an electrical conduit through this space above the wall to simplify future fishing? Ok, I'll try to explain as best as I can. Basically I have a space above my electrical box that leads into the unfinished section of the basement, with a bunch of electrical wire running through. As it happens I periodically want to run a new cable through this space, and it's a pain in the butt every time to get the glow rod through. Question: Can I put some flexible conduit up there to provide an easy raceway for future Romex runs? It wouldn't terminate in a box, it would just be there to be an easy pathway for rods or tape in the future and fully insulated Romex would go through it. <Q> Yes, this is a good idea, but a few details. <S> No more than four cables per conduit, unless you're willing to upsize ALL the cables to the next larger size. <S> That is 310.15(B)(3)(a). <S> The conduit needs to be fairly large, because the cables are oval. <S> Each oval cable is treated like a single wire of the wide dimension (because they twist). <S> They can't fill the conduit more than 30% (for two) or 40% (for three or more). <S> 1-1/4" conduit is probably a safe choice, though 1-1/2" will be easier to pull. <S> (pulling stiff Romex is a bugbear). <S> * <S> This is not a Code requirement per se, but it'll surely be a practical limit given NM-B tends to have kinks, and kinks snag like crazy in conduit. <S> Flex is a bad idea. <S> I know it seems easy to install, but the flex will fight you every inch of the way. <S> With a non-flexible conduit secured at both ends, that's an non-issue. <S> Assemble the conduit first, then fish the wires through it. <A> Yes, you can run NM/Romex cable through conduit. <S> This is generally used to protect the cable in exposed areas. <S> Sorry, you can't use Spa hose ( <S> but I've seen it tried) <S> They sell special bell ends for PVC conduit that ensure that the cable does not get cut or damaged by the end of the conduit. <S> It would be wise to use these if you can locate them, or some other fitting that will protect the NM/romex from getting damaged. <A> stick a rope though there that's reaches more than twice the distance, tie each end to an anchor point. <S> when you need to run a cable pull the rope's slack to you side then tie the cable to the middle of the rope, then go to the other side and pull the rope until you get to the cable untie the cable and leave the rope for next time.
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As long as the conduit is designed for electrical work, it should be fine. The energy you are using to push or pull the cable will instead bend the conduit sideways. Believe me, this is very frustrating, especially when pushing, and pushing is (otherwise) easier since you only have to watch one end.
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How to verify electrical box is secured strong enough for 16# ceiling fan? The metal electrical box says it's "Acceptable for fan support when secured with 10-32 screws provided". The box has 2 black screws (sheetrock screws?) in the middle that are screwed to some piece of wood above it. The screws are 2.5-3" long but I don't know how thick the wood is they are screwed into. This is between finished floors so I wouldn't have access from above. The ceiling fan I am installing is 16lbs in weight. Fan Instructions Fan Product Page How should I verify that this box is secured strong enough for a ceiling fan? Or, how can I make it more secure? -- Should I replace the black screws with 10-32 screws? Thanks! <Q> Okay, stop. <S> The 10-32 screw requirement is for the lower screws which attach the fan to the box, not the upper screws which attach the box to the wood. <S> You can see the holes that the 10-32 screws go into, in those tiny squares to left and right of your photo. <S> It's entirely possible those squares do something clever, like capture a nut. <S> But they are designed to do a good job taking a 10-32. <S> I don't know if the kit comes with special, hardened #10-32s. <S> Suffice it to say I bet you haven't lived for years with this mess on your ceiling <S> , so the magic screws probably secured the old lamp. <S> Go get them back. <S> If that means digging in the trash, let that be a lesson not to throw away things before the job is done. <S> Other than that <S> , what makes them "magical" is probably their carefully chosen length. <S> DO NOT REPLACE THE DRYWALL SCREWS WITH 10-32 <S> The 10-32 requirement doesn't refer to those! <S> These screws need to be strong enough to carry 16 pounds and the box. <S> Drywall screws will do the job, but I would convert to deck screws (a wee bit thicker) if they are the same thread pitch . <S> Lay the screw threads so they touch, and see if the threads have the same spacing. <S> Oh yeah, feel free to unscrew <S> one of the drywall screws at a time to evaluate it - not both at once. <S> The stiffness of unscrewing it will also tell you something about how thick the wood is. <S> If it gets easier as you back it out, that tells you the wood is pretty thick. <S> Alternately, I would pre-drill small holes in the two remaining locations, and fit the deck screws there. <S> You must pre-drill! <A> Secondly, you don't know what's supporting the wood that the box is attached to. <S> Get up into the attic and inspect it to make sure it's secure. <A> Look at all the parts that come with the fan and read the instructions. <S> The newer Hunter fans with sealed bearings (not oil bath) come with special engineered wood screws for the fan bracket which are designed (strong and long) to go into a ceiling joist. <S> If your fan has those, then they would go through two holes in the box or outside the box. <S> The box itself would then not be bearing any weight.
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The deck screws will certainly go in if you don't pre-drill, but they will likely also split the wood right down the line of the screws - and then none of the screws will have any gripping power at all. First of all, those drywall screws are not "10-32", use what's specified or something similar.
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Why did my light string turn off after a short while with GU24 to E26 to socket outlet adapters? I'm new to this website and (as you will see), I have no electrical knowledge. My wife and I recently moved and hung string lights in our back patio (bought from Costco; 24 watt per string). We do not have an outlet in the back patio, so I intended to use an E26 to outlet adapter. Problem is when we went to install the adapter, the socket is actually a GU24. So here was my "solution": I bought a GU24 to E26 adapter and installed it. Then, I installed the outlet adapter to the E26 adapter (I know this sounds hairy). The string lights turned on, but shut off after approximately 20 seconds. Any diagnostic impressions or troubleshooting ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! <Q> My first guess would be that your existing (presumably outdoor fixture) socket was connected to a "dusk to dawn" photocell (light sensor) somewhere, with a 2 minute delay (not uncommon) to automatically turn your outdoor fixture on and noght and off when the sun comes up. <S> So when you turn it on, the light from your string lights is enough to make the sensor think it is dawn and it turns off. <S> Usually if the existing outdoor fixture had a flood lamp in it, the light from it was directed away from the sensor so that didn't happen, but the string lights are spreading light in all directions, so now the sensor sees it and reacts. <S> Look for a photocell or sensor somewhere and if you find one, cover it with something dark, like electrician's tape. <S> Sometimes, like in the example below, they provide a sliding metal cover to use for this purpose. <S> The photocell may not be a separate device like this however, it might be built into the fixture itself. <S> But the "cell" might look like that round area with the squiggly lines in it. <S> It also might look like the gray area on the top of this example: <A> It is just hard for them to fit solidly and well. <A> I am honestly floored but the quick responses to my question and for the moderator for helping to articulate my question clearly. <S> You guys rock. <S> Truly appreciate it! <S> They're working perfectly now--it was a small photocell above the light housing that was out of view. <S> I'll be back with more questions <S> I'm sure, <S> and hopefully I can pay it forward <S> ins due time. <S> Cheers! <S> -Jamison
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Your adapter stack is failing I've dealt with this myself with the cheapie adapters from China (though, mine were at least UL Listed, probably because I was doing something reasonable, putting Candelabra bulbs in Edison sockets).
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How can I temporarily disable a garden hose tap without an interior valve? I have a water tap in the garden of the house. My little son keeps opening it regardless of how tight I close it. I would like to seal it off. I was hoping to find a metal cylinder shape element which I can screw on the tap water end. Any help would be highly appreciated. Please note that I can't close the water supply to the tap. <Q> You could also remove the handle if it has one screw in the middle. <S> You can also do a web search for "locking hose bib" and find a plethora of options. <A> Hose caps as mentioned above will definitely do the trick. <S> You might think about just removing the spigot handle. <S> They usually just have a screw in the center holding them to the valve stem. <A> I would put a hose on it and add a valve at the end--either one that he can't operate or one that's stored out of reach. <S> Other ideas: <S> Add a hose cap to the spigot <S> Do a " safety wire " locking technique, like race car drivers do, where a small wire is passed through the knob and tied around the spout to prevent it from turning Install one of those spinning child-proof knobs to the spigot <S> handle <A> You could also replace the hose bib with a different version that needs a special key to use it. <S> Here are some examples. <S> I'm not endorsing the sites or the brands, they are just examples I found online. <S> Stem locks <S> "Standard" Square pattern keys Child lock stems <S> Some of the products are the full spigot and some are just screw-in replacements for the current valve and handle system. <S> If you go this route, make sure you know what you need and what you're getting. <S> That "child lock" system looks like it only works with certain brands of sillcock as a replacement for the valve. <A> You could use a tap lock. <S> They are common where I am from (South Africa), but a quick google <S> and it seems you might have to import them since they don't seem common elsewhere. <S> Here are some links https://leroymerlin.co.za/tap-lock-81440292 <S> https://ecodepot.co.za/products/small-garden-tap-lock-galvanised <S> They might just have a different name in other countries. <A> you can take the knob off of the valve, so that he cant turn it on
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You can get a hose cap and screw it on nice and tight.
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Can I glue instead of screw a 3/4” strip of cement backer board? I am building a shower. The entrance is framed by 2x4s. On the outside of the shower there is drywall butting up against the 2x4. So, there is only enough room for a 3/4” strip of hardibacker. I’ve tried predrilling and countersinking, but the hardibacker is still breaking at every screw hole. I’m thinking about gluing it down with construction adhesive instead. Thoughts? <Q> The solution I came up with was to predrill, just through the cement board, and then using roofing nails. <A> If it's breaking, then it isn't well supported on the back (or you're driving the screws too far, or your pre-dilled holes are too small). <S> The official website says that it should be mechanically fixed at 8" on center for wood, or 16" on center for metal. <A> With a strip that narrow you would be better off to put some screws / nails in every 6-8” below the surface and fill the strip with mortar embed mesh in the top surface for maximum strength. <S> The problem Your screws need to be 3/8 or more away from the edge Of backer board a 3/4 wide strip will break every time. <S> it is best to fill <S> it embed some fiber mesh for strength. <S> The screws/ nails in the wood will be enough for it to hold onto.
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The predrilling and the flat head of the nails kept the cement board from splitting.
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Can I cut the shower seal that is tearing or do I have to replace the whole seal? On my glass shower door, the outer seal of the under sweep is tearing. (I think it's called the under sweep based on other questions I've seen on this site but I could be wrong). Can I cut the piece that is tearing so that it stops or do I have to replace the whole seal? <Q> I'd try removing the door and see if you can refit the seal into the groove on the door, maybe a little super glue to hold it in place. <S> If you just cut the loose end off, the door will probably leak at that point. <A> Sure you can cut it off so it's not bothering you. <S> When you do, you'll only have a partial seal left, though, and whatever amount of water that's currently dripping under the door will continue to do so. <S> If you'd like to stop the drips/leaks, then you'll need to replace the entire seal. <S> If you were to try to replace just the torn off bit, you'd still have the seam where the two pieces meet and water will get through that. <S> Water is a bit insidious that way... <A> It is better if you replace the whole seal. <S> That is the only thing you can do now. <A> UPDATE: <S> I used Loctite Clear Silicone Waterproof Sealant to glue the torn outer seal to the inner seal. <S> Works perfectly <S> and it's not leaking.
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If it is, in fact, torn or split from th groove in the door, then you'll need to replace the whole seal.
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How do I remove textured paint from my patio floor? My patio flooring has a paint-like texture on it that is chipping off. The base is concrete. I have tried scraping, but it's incredibly tedious to get up and is taking hours of work. Is there some sort of chemical or solution I can use to help the paint/texture lift easier? <Q> You say "paint-like" texture. <S> Are you sure it's paint? <S> If it's paint, any sort of chemical paint stripper should do the trick. <S> There are quite a number of more "friendly" "citrus" or "orange" based paint strippers that don't have the smell and toxic concerns of paint strippers of the past. <S> Aim the blast at the currently chipped edges to allow the water to get underneath them and lift. <S> You may need to shoot the water almost horizontally for the more stubborn bits. <S> Aiming at a fairly well covered area is unlikely to get a hole started. <S> If you've got enough pressure to do that, though, you've got a non-zero chance of actually damaging the concrete underneath, too, so turn down the pressure. <S> It's possible that you've got an epoxy coating instead of paint. <S> I'm not certain if the "friendly" strippers will work on that, you'll probably have to get one that's specifically for epoxy coating. <S> Also, the pressure washer may not work so well on epoxy - it tends to grip pretty well. <S> If you're not sure what you've got, try taking a few flakes (the bigger the better) to a local paint store to see if the can ID it for you and make a recommendation. <A> Your patio flooring has been painted over top of concrete. <S> The problem is, when you do that, the surface tends to become impossibly slick - it's not so bad bone dry , but get a drop of oil and some condensation, the oil will spread all over and the water will multiply with it to make the the surface shockingly slick . <S> This being a known vulnerability of painted concrete floors, they sell traction modifiers for painters to apply to the pant, to create a roughness which makes the surface safe to walk on in all conditions. <S> Paint manufacturers sell traction modifiers compatible withtheir paint. <S> But lots of peoplesay "I ain't paying $13 for a quart of sand", so they use a quart of sand. <S> And it may have compatibility issues with the paint. <S> Regardless -- you need traction modifier . <S> If you're going to remove it, you will need to repaint, and in that paint coating, include your own traction modifier. <S> A glassy smooth surface is simply not an option from a safety POV. <A> If you can't beat em, join em. <S> If you can get the old stuff off, you probably will want some sort of treatment on your concrete porch. <S> Somaybe you could just put the new stuff on top. <S> Of course if the old stuff is totally flaking away then the new stuff will not adhere <S> but it sounds like the old stuff is pretty tenacious. <S> If as @FreeMan suggests the old stuff is epoxy a new coat might adhere to and cover the old stuff and look good.
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I presume a patio is outdoors, so a pressure washer may do the trick.
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Do power strip switches provide the same protection as circuit breakers? Do power strip switches serve the same kind of protection a breaker do? How are they different? I'm designing a small switchboard for my desk / workbench, in order to have better cable management and convenient outlet access. I estimate all of the equipment used together wont exceed 5 A. For that usage I want to add a current limiting switch and I think I can get a 5A (maybe less?) breaker switch from the hardware store. My question is, does a power strip switch would add some meaningful protection if installed downstream the breaker? (I do not think that switch would trip on 5A, as most strips are rated 12A or so) Would it make sense to hack such a switch to add it to my switchboard? I have never had a power strip tripping although I'm a regular user. I have read that they have a limited amount of events they can handle after which you basically end up with a overly complicated extension cord. Most p.s. packaging states they protect against "spikes", but I'm not sure what that refers to. Some project details: I never use all the equipment at the same time but I want to safely tuck most of the cables safely and not need to unplug them every time. I'm thinking of about 10 receptacles, most of them with a dedicated switch and possibly a pilot light (an indicator of whether the outlet is powered). The panel would be accessible near my desktop / workbench, bolted to a cabinet. (Main usage: Programming work on weekdays, small electronics hobbyist projects and toy repairing on weekends and free time.) Some outlets would be covered and a couple of them accessible for quickly (un)plugging tools. My concern is someone else may turn all the switches on or plug in some other equipment in there (For example a hairdryer rated 1350 watts, or a clothes iron rated 1200 watt. A person not knowing the purpose of a conveniently placed outlet.) I'm planing on using 3 conductor wire, about 2 meters long due to cable routing, to bolt the switchboard to a cabinet near the wall outlet. I do not want to use as thick wire as most power strips have because such cable is difficult to bend and manage neatly. I will use the proper cable gauge depending on the confirmed load rating of my device collection. The main cable would be routed around the back of a cabinet. This won't be used near water. The equipment I plan on using here: 2 Laptop switching power adaptors. 2 Cell/tablet chargers rated 0.35A 1 Radio Cassette Recorder (Boombox) 3 Other low power music devices (speakers and such) 1 Hot glue gun (temporary) 1 Soldering iron (40Watt, temporary) I'm not in the USA but rather in Central America. Here we use 120 V (I have measured it to range 110-127 in normal circumstances). Here most homes and buildings use only plain breakers and switches/outlets, i.e. no GFCI or similar, so they are not easily available from hardware stores. Buying electrical equipment from internet is frowned upon and being here delivery cost would not be worthy. I live in a 3 year old apartment building and have never had an electrical mishap within the building complex but we have very frequent power outages. <Q> This is what you are looking for in a design your power strip outlet that has all the functionality you are looking for. <S> I do not believe you could purchase the individual components to build this yourself for the price. <S> The product I found shows how it is put together if you want to look for all the parts yourself. <S> Even with shipping to Central America, the price would still seem to be reasonable. <S> You could buy two of these and have 14 outlets available. <S> Link to the Tripp <S> Lite 7 <S> Oulets <S> Another way is to purchase a power switch with surge protection and add the lighted switch to the back of the strip. <S> This way the switches can be position on top and the outlets are now against the wall facing down. <S> You can also add the 5A reset button on the strip to limit the max current flow to 5A. <S> There are also circular button on/off, but none I seen that are lighted. <S> The circular ones are easier to fabricate, as you are only drilling a hole, not have to use a punch out to make a rectangle opening for the switch. <S> See example below of how to do this. <S> The switches have to be installed on the side of the outlet. <S> There would be very little space behind the outlets. <A> Most of the power strips I have seen installed do not act as mini circuit breakers. <S> They switch on and off and their rating is based usually on the switch. <S> I'm sure there are some out there <S> that do trip if overloaded and also have surge protection <S> but those are the more expensive ones. <A> Power strips tend to be very rinky-dinky and are not good or reliable quality. <S> Relying on a circuit breaker built into a power strip is not a good idea. <S> I don't know what you mean by "hardware store" circuit breakers, since my shop sells everything from mains-rated Square D "QO" (top shelf) to cheapie automotive circuit breakers that trip 5 times and break. <S> Obviously you need to use mains-rated breakers for AC mains. <S> Most of those are designed to clip into pre-made panelboards, except for certain breakers (typically DIN rail) of the European style made for industrial equipment. <S> That's the kind you need, but they are large. <S> If you're thinking of the baby breakers that are 15mm <S> x 20 <S> mm <S> x 30mm or so, those are the automotive cheapies.
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For the 5A breaker (fuse) on each outlet, I don't believe you will find that in any power strip. The switch doesn't trip if overloaded, it starts to fail by overheating the contacts, or melting the housing.
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Crooked light switches in loose electrical box needs fixing I recently replaced 2 rocker switches in an existing electrical box and they are both crooked (inward) and look like garbage. They also don't feel that nice as they are indented and not flush, so honestly they don't function all that great either. It's a problem specific to this electrical switch outlet box. I've tried every adjustment I can think of, but nothing has worked. I tried: Making sure the copper wiring attached wasn't pulling the switch to 1 side Making sure the screws mounting the switch were tight but not over-tightened Checked both switches to make sure tabs were flat and not bent I did notice the electrical box is loose in the wall and torqued a bit and not flush with the wall. The system of tightening the switches which pulls on the drywall and should pull the box forward isn't quite working well either. The drywall starts to press in and almost get destroyed before the electrical box pulls flush. The box is the type mounted with nails on the top and bottom (I can see them and a little rusted). I can move the box around say 1/4 to 1/2" with my fingers. I would guess that people that do this type of work as a trade have specific practices on the 'right' way to fix this and something that doesn't break code. Here are the things I'm guessing might fix it: Add some type of shim behind the light switch flanges to help make the mount truly flush as maybe the drywall is soft and from the pictures a bit worn away Use spacers like washers behind the switch to pull it out and more flush (I'm not sure if that's a bad practice or against code) Call a drywall and electrical contractor to cut open the drywall, remove and replace with a new electrical box, and repair the drywall (I really hope not as that's expensive, but if that's the only way to fix, then that's what will have to be done). Some other proper way to fix I haven't considered How can I get these switches to mount flush and protrude correctly from the light switch cover please? EDIT: The 1st picture shows the torqued switches fully tightened and installed. The 2nd picture was taken after I had loosed the screws on the switches. I probably should have used a different picture or clarified. That picture is to show the drywall to electrical box condition for helping show the bare parts. When fully installed those switch mount screws are fully tightened and pressed on the drywall. <Q> OK, Those tabs are not up against the drywall. <S> Press the switches in hard until the tabs are against the drywall and then tighten the screws. <S> Then get a two gang switch cover with the four screws that will aid in getting the switches lined up correctly. <S> You can loosen the screws holding the switches to the box a bit if it helps line them up with the new cover. <S> That cover plate you have is useless. <A> Per the commented suggestion from @DaveM, there are rubber shims/spacers that can be used for worn out, abused, maligned, damaged, or non-flush electrical outlets where getting the electrical switches to pull flush and level upon tightening isn't possible. <S> I used the following pack from Lowe's which was less then $10: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-24-Pack-0-75-in-W-x-4-in-L-Yellow-Plastic-Wall-Plate-Spacer/4573784 <S> They are quite flexible in use and can be stacked, used individually, or used on 1-corner to do whatever is needed to bring the outlet flush. <S> I was able to cut and stack these behind the switch where the drywall was chewed up and the outlet box wasn't flush to correct the problem. <S> This seems to be the safe and proper way as opposed to stacking metal washers, or a bigger solution to replace or re-install a box. <S> I have the switches about 95% better and the end result is flush and aligned with the outlet cover. <A> What I've found, when I have switches that are twisted like that is that I've done a poor job of packing the wiring behind the switches and into the box. <S> After turning off the power at the breaker pull the switches back out of the wall just enough to see behind them. <S> Have a look at where the wiring is behind them and rearrange just a bit - based on what I see, you've probably got a wire nut on each side of the box that's sticking out just far enough that the back of the switch is hitting it and doesn't want to go any further back into the box. <S> Rearranging the wiring so the nuts will go against the back of the box will help immensely. <S> Once you've tidied up a bit behind, if they still won't sit flat, I will twist the switch slightly against its mounting tabs so that it's even from side to side. <S> The electricians here will probably scream at me that this is dangerous and that I shouldn't do it (and I'm fine with being corrected on this point), but it's worked for me so far. <S> If, as it appears, the box has been installed a little too deep, you can put some washers on the switch mounting screws to bring them further out from the wall so they sit flush with the cover plate. <S> Of course, your "screwless" cover plate is probably a bit thicker than a standard cover plate, so that's probably why this is a problem now when it was never a problem in the past. <A> This will only work (reiterating FreeMan's answer) if the switches are not bound up by the way that the wires are packed into the box and if the wires are not pushing the switch to one side or the other.
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Loosen the screws that attach the switches to the box, and use the cover plate screws to "pull" the switches into alignment against the back of the cover plate as they are tightened.
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Any special precautions when turning off water to a property? When turning off incoming pressurized fresh water to a property for a few hours during non-freezing conditions, are there any special precautions that need to be taken? Specifically, is there anything that needs to be done to protect a tank-based water heater? Also, what about when the water is turned back on? <Q> In addition to what FreeMan stated, if you have an electric water heater you want to turn off the breaker that feeds it. <S> Depending on your plumbing, turning on some hot water faucets to finish some dishes or finish washing up could drain the water heater. <S> If the thermostat for it kicks in and the water level is low, you'll burn up the element in seconds. <S> Once your tank in full, turn your power to it back on. <S> If your tank is gas, it's not so important because your tank don't be damaged like your elements would be <S> but it's still a good idea to shut it off. <A> I've turned the water off at the meter for our house more than once - I even bought my own "curb key" to do it. <S> We've had a small variety of leaks and issues requiring this. <S> The water company has turned it off for a variety of maintenance work too. <S> I've never taken any particular precautions prior to turning the water off, nor had any ill effects after turning the water back on. <S> When we first connected to city water, they started the meter at zero (the new meter had never been used!) and told us to run 100 gallons to flush the line from the meter to the house. <S> They started billing us after the 100 gallon mark. <S> Other than that - nothing. <S> You may get some air in the line if you're opening other valves or cutting into piping. <S> The water will spurt and splutter as the air is forced through the pipes and out the taps, but this won't harm anything beyond possibly splashing you, and, depending on the length of pipe between where the air got in and the tap where you're letting it out should be over in well under a minute. <S> It's possible that you'll get a small spurt from every faucet and tub, as the air bubbles might work their way all through the house, but it's not too likely. <S> If you know your house's plumbing well, go to the farthest faucet from where the water main comes in and let it run for whatever amount of time it normally takes to get hot water there (assuming a single water heater located near the main inlet). <S> This will ensure that you've flushed the vast majority of water out. <S> Or, if you're up for some fun, don't warn the family and let them discover the air themselves and get a little splash as each faucet is used during the day. :) <A> You are lucky to live in a place where the utility company doesn't turn off your water on a schedule because there is a water shortage. <S> Those of us who are used to it know that nothing particularily bad happens. <S> If you plan to work on hot water part, turn off your water heater no matter if it is powered by electricity, gas, coal or uranium rods <S> (sun-powered are a separate case, refer to their manual). <S> Drain any hot water from it beforehand. <S> You don't want hot water leaking on your hands in some confined space where you cannot readily run away, do you? <S> It probably has a valve that won't let the hot water into the cold side, but one could never know how this valve feels like, so it is better not to have hot water available to burn your hands it even if you don't plan working on the hot side. <S> Washing machines, dish-washing machines, water coolers, coffee machines, etc, ... anything connected to both water and electricity must be turned off and unplugged from the mains if applicable. <S> Forgetting one or two of these is less important, they don't have the water heater potential for doing unpleasant things. <S> When turning off any rarely-used water valves, esp. <S> old rusty ones, be prepared that (1) they may not close absolutely tight (you may get a small amount of water flowing from open pipes for the whole duration of the repair) and (2) they may start leaking from the shaft. <S> The shaft leak usually, but not always, stops later by itself. <S> Ok, you turned off the water, did some repairs, now turn it back on. <S> Check for leaks. <S> Run water from all taps until it stops coughing air. <S> Look for any signs of mud or rust in the water that comes out first. <S> If there is any sign of mud or rust (it depends on the type of plumbing and the quality of your local utility water), you may need to run the washing machine on the shortest program without any clothes in. <S> You don't want your clothes washed with rusty water, beleive me. <S> Check for leaks again, everywhere, even where you didn't touch. <S> One can never be sure. <S> Turn back on anything you turned off. <S> Done (probably). <A> If your municipal water supply does not require a check valve (backflow preventer) where the water enters your house, then you probably do not have an expansion tank in your water system. <S> In that case, if your water heater is not up to full temperature when you close your main valve and the water heater is running, the water in the tank will expand as it warms, and the pressure will increase until the temperature / pressure relief valve dumps the excess water on the floor. <S> It's not the end of the world, but the T/P relief valve at that point might develop a permanent slow leak and require replacement. <S> So just turn off the water heater before closing the main supply valve. <S> And if you have an expansion tank in your water system, no worries!
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When you turn your water back on, release any air in the water heater by opening a few faucets.
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Is it possible to use the same key when replacing a door knob? The lock mechanism broke in my exterior door knob. I am probably going to have to buy a new one. Can i buy a new door knob and program it to use my existing key so I don't have to get new keys? <Q> Most brands of locks can be re-keyed, but it usually requires specialized techniques and sometimes tools. <S> Many retailers will do it in-house free or for a small fee. <S> Otherwise, any locksmith* should be able to help you out. <S> Be aware that keys have brand-specific cross-sectional shapes, so be sure to buy a new lockset of the same brand (or compatible with) the old one. <S> * <S> I'll concede that locksmiths may have a slightly higher than average rate of crookery among them, but it goes without saying that any company performing service on or involving your home should be vetted properly. <S> Any implies any reputable locksmith. <A> Cheap option <S> At least one company makes self-rekeying door locks. <S> They are a hunky vendor, and their stuff is all about features not longevity or quality, but it works for awhile. <S> Sensible option Find a locksmith that has a walk-in retail store. <S> Walk in, and tell them you want new lock sets to match this key. <S> They will make you absolutely anything . <S> And it will be a cut above; ranging from “acceptable” to “ indestructible” depending on how much you want to pay. <S> Prices will be sane, but more than “grab a kwikset off the shelf at HD”. <S> Out of this world option Call the same established locksmith (do not use web search, or you will get a lead generator or crook) . <S> Have them come to your site with their truck. <S> Many locksmiths will only do business this way. <S> They are the wrong ones for you, unless you want this. <A> https://www.kwikset.com/smartkey-security <S> If it's a different brand, then follow isherwood's advice. <A> As it turns out, I was just in a similar situation recently. <S> I went to my local hardware store, where I found the same brand of doorknob (Kwikset). <S> They were able to re-key the new doorknob for me while I waited. <S> They charged me $5 in addition to the price of the doorknob. <A> When I moved into a house that was previously owned by someone else, I wanted to have <S> all the exterior locks re-keyed, have some upside-down cylinders turned right-side up, and make some doorknob locks match their deadbolt locks <S> so I wouldn't need two keys for one door. <S> I was looking at over three hundred dollars for a reputable locksmith to do all the work. <S> (It's a country house with many doors.) <S> Instead, I purchased two re-keying kits online, one Kwikset and one Schlage for about $45 total. <S> The kits included special tools that make the process easy. <S> There are numerous instructional videos online that show how it's done. <S> Since that time, I've had to replace some worn out locks with new ones, and I simply re-key the new locks myself. <S> Easy peasy, and no locksmith required. <A> A lot of big box stores typically have one person trained in re-keying locks (and only one, as in if they're not there when you come, you're out of luck until they come back). <S> If you ask them, they will typically re-key anything the big box sells. <S> It's less prevalent in the era of the Kwikset DIY re-key, but they're still out there.
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If your current locks are Kwikset brand, you're in luck -- they make a line of products called SmartKey, which allows you to rekey them yourself at home.
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Removing router bit that is stuck with damaged shaft I got this router from a family member for free but the bit is stuck. It's waaaay over tightened. Trying to get it out just damages the shaft (which I already managed to do). What is the best approach to loosen this and get the bit out? Thanks! EDIT: Following several suggestions, I tried using the pin with a bigger wrench. I tried before but only with the supplied wrench. Here is the result. It is waaay over tightened or there is some other reason why I can't loosen it. That's is way I asked for help here. EDIT 2: thanks for all the suggestions. I will try the different approaches and report back. <Q> While the other answer is correct in normal conditions - that is the purpose of the pin. <S> Using the normal mechanism relies on the strength of the aluminum casting which may break under these conditions. <S> And looking at the first picture it looks as if that casting is already cracked so take care. <A> Rotate shaft until the hole (red arrow)aligns with the pin. <S> (Yellow arrow)Push orange button to interlock pin with hole in shaft. <S> Use appropriate size wrench to turn locking nut(purple arrow). <S> After a couple turns the bit should slip out of the end of the shaft . <A> Looking closely at the threads that are showing it appears that it may be a reverse thread. <S> ( counter clockwise, it is difficult to tell for sure. <S> I do not know why it would be, <S> neither my dewalt nor my bosch are. ) <S> It may also be that the collet is cross threaded. <S> Since the shaft is already damaged: Clamp the router <S> FIRMLY to a bench, clamp the shaft <S> FIRMLY in a large pair of locking pliers ( vise grips ) and use a LARGE adjustable wrench ( crescent wrench ) with long pipe over the handle on the collet to give you leverage. <S> When you start to turn the crescent wrench, the vise grips will turn until they hit the bench <S> and then you can start to use leverage/muscle. <S> AND as Freeman stated, the future use of the router is questionable. <S> A note on penetrates: PB Blaster is a much superior penetrate. <A> It sounds like it is very tightly stuck, in which case similar methods could work as with removing stuck nuts in general: <S> Penetrating lubricant, such as WD40. <S> Spray it into the nut threads and let it soak in for 15 minutes before trying to loosen the nut. <S> Heat: use a hot air gun to warm up the nut, it should expand and be easier to remove. <S> Impact: the idea is to mount the bigger piece (the router) into a sturdy vice, put a well-fitting wrench on the smaller piece (nut) and then give a whack to the wrench with a hammer. <S> The sudden impact will deliver a large force that can break up whatever corrosion is holding the nut up. <S> In your case, mounting the shaft to a vice is probably difficult, but you can experiment with some kind of strong pin in the hole to stop it from rotating.
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I would use a bar that fits into the hole in that shaft and a properly fitting wrench as if it has been overtightened it will need some force to undo it.
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Connecting 3 wire timer to 2 wire circuit I went to replace an old mechanical timer for a bathroom extraction fan with a more up to date timer. The new single pole timer has a ground of course (no more mention of that), a black hot, a white neutral and a red load. All good, but when I took out the old timer, the wiring in the box simply had a black and a white wire terminating at the old timer. Can I connect neutral, white from timer to white house wire and then both black hot and red load from the timer to black house wire? <Q> No. <S> The white wire to the old timer is actually the load, not neutral (and technically should have some black tape over the white insulation to mark it as such). <S> Unfortunately, your switch box does not have a neutral wire <S> (they were not required in switch boxes until relatively recently, 10-15 years ago). <S> You need to return the new timer and find one that does not require a neutral connection. <A> This is the classic dilemma when substituting any simple switch for a powered/sophisticated switch. <S> Many light switches in legacy (pre-NEC 2011) <S> homes are wired with switch loops , which bring only "always-hot" and "switched-hot" to the switch - no neutral since plain switches don't need them. <S> You have what is very common - that switch loop with always-hot and switched-hot. <S> The installers did what is now a Code violation by failing to mark the white wire as a hot on both ends. <S> Code also requires the white be used for always-hot if it's not being used for neutral <S> (so it's easier to detect). <S> And this is something you better get used to, as it's probably true for half the light circuits in your house . <S> As it happens, I just yesterday saw a listing for a GE pushbutton timer of the type you seem to want, which did not require a neutral wire but did require a ground wire. <S> That might suit your needs. <A> Without a neutral wire you will have to stay with a mechanical timer which are still available today, or you could rewire the box with a 3 conductor wire from another source.
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The upshot is that you cannot use a "smart switch" unless that smart-switch is designed to not require a neutral wire.
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Can I drywall over a skylight without removing it? Is it possible to put a ceiling over an existing skylight without removing the skylight? It's not leaking. We just want to divide the room in the middle of the skylight. Would it pose problems with heat building up inside the shaft? <Q> You could extend the wall up into the skylite cavity but still keep it open and light both rooms... <A> It isn't a big deal because if your skylight leaks now, its going to ruin something. <S> If you are selling the house anytime soon it will be a huge huge red flag having a hidden skylight. <S> There are no code issues with what you are doing, it is just weird. <S> Normally you do this after you take skylight out. <S> But I also get why you wouldn't have a non-leaking roof repaired. <A> I did something similar where we added a wall and used light tubes below in each area but the skylight was enclosed with no problems, the light tubes provided much of the light the sky light did prior to the remodel.
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Yes as long as you plan on removing the skylight the next time you have work on your roof and you are OK with that particular area having a chance at water damage.
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unscrew a rounded nut I tried to remove the supporting wheel of my son's bike the other day, it's quite easy to remove one but the other gave me quite a bit trouble - the nut is rounded thus can't be secured by a wrench. The bike, the nut, and the tools I used to try are shown below. I looked up online and found some links which look promising but not sure if they are fisible in reality, like this one on youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5d0Bgvjmlk Can anyone kindly help out? Also, on the left side of the bike, which direction is to loosen the nut? Counter-clockwise, right? <Q> They will lock on to any portion of that nut, embossing some grooves in it, and allow you to turn the nut. <S> You'll have to squeeze the pliers quite hard to get them to lock, but once they're locked, they'll hold just fine. <S> You then unscrew, applying whatever turning force is necessary without worrying about holding the pliers on to the nut. <S> Depending on how tight the nut is, you may have to release & relock the pliers more than once as you run out of turning room. <S> The exceptions are the right-hand side pedal and crank arm. <S> You won't have to worry about the crank arm on this bike, though, as it appears to have a 1-piece crank. <S> There may be a couple of other left-hand threads, but they're on parts you won't ever encounter until you're deep into home bike maintenance - the kind of maintenance you'll never do on this bike because the kid will have outgrown it long before that maintenance is necessary. <S> As a side note, you're probably going to want to replace the nuts on the rear axle where the training wheels attach. <S> This will help prevent the kid from scraping himself on the potentially sharp edge of the nut. <S> You'll probably want an acorn nut (which will cover then end of the bolt with a smoothly rounded "lid"). <S> You will not want to reuse whatever's left of the nut in your picture - it will have more sharp edges than the axle! <A> At this point the nut is ruined. <S> Get some vice grips or small pipe wrench. <S> Once you remove it, replace it with a new nut. <S> Turn the nut counterclockwise. <A> If the nut is that tight <S> and you show the same tools in your picture that the other answers suggest so I am going to explain a different technique. <S> Using a small drill 1/8" or less I have drilled 2 or 3 holes into the nut inline with the axis of the shaft just down to the start of the threads - stitch drilling then split the nut with a chisel. <S> once the nut starts to expand it then comes undone easily.
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When you get that nut off, take it to your local hardware store, and ask for a pair of acorn nuts - you'll need this bolt so you can be sure the threads match. You need "locking pliers" - Vice Grips™ is a trade name that has become a common name for these types of pliers. With very few exceptions, all threads on a bike are standard right-hand threads (righty-tightey, lefty-loosey).
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How do I remove an old ceiling junction box to install one rated for a fan? I want to replace a light fixture in my house (1950s construction) with a ceiling fan. I doubt that the existing box will support a fan. I see the big screw in the middle of the box. Is it holding the box up? How difficult will replacing the box be without attic access? <Q> If you have determined that the existing box is not sufficient to support a fan or you want to make sure that a box is designed for a ceiling fan, it would not be difficult. <S> After opening the breaker to the box in question. <S> Remove the old box. <S> You may have to cut some of the drywall away to remove the old box and to install the support bracket of the new ceiling fan box. <S> Once the old box is removed, use a ceiling fan mount like this and attach to two joists. <S> Re-patch the sheetrock and mount the ceiling fan. <A> To determine how the box is attached you should proceed to remove the box. <S> First remove the flat bar with projecting machine screws. <S> Then look at the inside of the box to see how the box is attached to either a metal bar or to a ceiling joist. <S> If the latter, it should be readily removable without enlarging the hole. <S> I think removing the box will be easy. <S> The harder part would be removing a bar, if the bar was installed as new work before the ceiling was put up. <S> I can't think of any appealing way to do that. <S> The light duty junction box is left in place and the large shroud covers the box. <A> I would seriously double that the existing box is fan worthy. <S> That big screw in the middle leads me to believe the box is attached to a bracket bar of sort. <S> Removing that screw/nut should allow the box to be pulled out after undoing all the wires (which you need to carefully mark so you can reinstall them in the new box. <S> If there is a bar support, you'll have to cut it out with a hacksaw blade or rotary tool, like a Dremel, with a cutoff wheel. <S> Then proceed to install you new old work box or box to joist. <S> If you need to cut away some drywall around the box, there are cover plates available to cover up the additional drywall removed. <S> They come in many sizes depending on how much you need to cut out. <S> See picture below. <A> A metal box in wood construction is usually attached by means of nails, or possibly screws, through ears attached to the box. <S> It might look something like that shown below -- you can probably shine a light in through the gap between box and drywall to confirm whether yours matches. <S> If it does, the simplest thing to do is probably to cut the nail flanges off the box. <S> You can do this manually with something like a hack saw, or using power tools such as a jig saw or reciprocating saw. <S> The cables entering the box are very likely to be out of harm's way, but it's possible there could be cables routed just above the box too. <S> Figure out some way of confirming the area is clear. <S> You might be able to see in there if the gap is large enough, but if not, you might be able to probe with a screwdriver, a piece of bent wire, or other tool. <S> Finally, install an old work ceiling fan mount as per its instructions. <S> If the nail flanges from the original box aren't in the way of the new fan mount then can simply be left in place.
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After the box is detached from its mounting you'll be able to work the cables free of the box. The instructions for the new lighter Hunter fans allow installation into a ceiling joist with special wood screws provided if the box is attached to or near the joist. You'll want to ensure that the electrical cables are clear of the saw blade.
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Do I need rim joist for this tree house platform? What will happen if I leave them off? Because the angle is odd and the trees are not parallel my idea was to put everything up as is, tack the decking on and then strike a line on the joists to cut them exactly so they're even. You can see in this picture that everything is up and all I have left is to cut the joists to the right size, but, after having it like this for a few days we like the exposed looks of the joists and don't really want to add a rim joist. Is this a problem for cutting them to length but not adding a rim joists? I know it's there to provide lateral support but for this application do you think it's necessary? What could happen if I leave it off? <Q> Do you have to? <S> No. <S> What will happen if you don't? <S> The unsupported ends of your joists will: <S> sag twist <S> The decking on the left of the single tree (from the angle of the picture you provided) will become uneven, making tripping hazards for the occupants up top. <S> You'll also end up needing to replace those deck boards more frequently, since not only will they want to do some warping and cracking of their own <S> (it's wood, that's what it does), but they'll be forced into even more warping by the joists moving underneath them. <S> An additional consideration - without the rim joist, what are you going to attach the railing to? <S> Having the nice straight, even surface of the rim joist gives a good mating surface for screwing the railing posts to (with some serious sized structural screws, not decking screws (they're not designed for that kind of load), and especially not drywall screws). <S> Without it, you're going to have to fabricate some pretty unique and <S> beefy brackets to hold the railings to the ends of the joists. <S> You'll probably have to cut through that last deck board to attach them. <S> Then, you'll get to watch the whole railing get ripped apart as the joists twist with age. <S> But, you don't have to. <S> Maybe OP had thought about this, but it just occurred to me: I'd put a rim joist at the far end, too, even though each joist is directly supported by the beam and attached to them with the hurricane clips (kudos for that!). <S> Those metal clips will help prevent the bottoms from moving when the joists want to twist ( <S> if it twists away from the metal, a joist can pull itself off the nail, leaving the metal behind), but will leave the tops free to move. <S> A rim joist on the far end will help prevent warping all the way along the ends of the joists. <A> yes you should use them <S> As you stated they are a part of the lateral system and the answer about that is no <S> you don't need the rim joists here for that reason. <S> However, the rim joists serve other purposes. <S> For one, they are also part of your gravity system. <S> Look at the picture you posted an ask yourself, what stops all the joists from rolling over together like a connected string of dominoes? <S> Yes, you do have the blocking in the middle (kudos! <S> because that is serving the same purpose here, like a rim joist in mid span) but remember that wood is very ductile and the support is localized. <S> That is why we use blocking at 8' oc maximum. <S> I do note that loads are a big factor and this is more important if there are walls, roof and maybe more levels bearing on the end of the joists (building edge) and here that won't be the case. <S> However, the roll over can still happen, slowly over time... <S> Other purposes for the rim joist is to provide overall integrity, alternate load paths and so on. <S> To attach railings, and so on <A> I see you are using “Dry” lumber (rather than “Green” lumber) so drying out and twisting probably won’t be a problem. <S> However, standard construction practices would require a rim joist. <S> to prevent rotation. <S> (See ICC R502.7) <S> However, this requirement is under the general heading: “Lateral restraint at supports”. <S> Key phrase here is “at supports”. <S> In addition, the Code requires bridging or blocking at 8’ on center when the size of joists exceed 2x12’s. <S> (See ICC R502.7.1) <S> Your framing doesn’t “exceed” 2x12’s, but it does eliminate lateral rotation of the joists. <S> All these Code requirements are based on standard construction, including design load of 40 lbs. <S> per square foot. <S> I doubt you’ll have that unless you add furniture, etc.
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If you follow the Building Code, the Code says, “Joists shall be supported laterally at the ends of joists by blocking, rim joists, etc.
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Hanging drywall on taller than 8-foot walls I have a concrete slab porch that was made into a family room by the previous owner. They used paneling on the walls and I'm going to remove that paneling and replace it with drywall. The top of the wall has wood trim all the way around. That wood is damaged to some extent and I'm thinking of just removing it all. However, that would make the total height for the walls 8ft 8inches. So how should I hang the drywall? If I take 4x8 sheets, mounted horizontally, I would have 8 inches uncovered. Where should that 8 inches be? Should I mount one drywall sheet at the top and one at the bottom and patch the 8 inches in-between? Put the 8-inch section at the top? At the bottom? <Q> Firstly, you may be able to source 54" drywall. <S> Two sheets oriented in the usual horizontal way will cover a wall height up to 108" (9 ft) with one tape joint between them. <S> The extra cost may be worth the effort savings. <S> If your framing is laid out accurately on 16" or 24" centers, 10' sheets would stand up (vertically) nicely. <S> All tape joints would be vertical - none horizontal. <S> The waste won't cost much. <S> Otherwise, it really comes down to where you want to work. <S> Normally you work top-down, so you'd have that joint near the floor. <S> One benefit is that you have flat drywall where you'll install base trim instead of a tapered edge. <S> The drawback is that you're taping a joint hunched over. <S> Pros will sometimes do narrow strips in the middle so they can tape both joints almost as a single joint, skimming it all out together. <S> The drawback to that is that you're taping a flat (butt) joint, since one edge of the strip won't have a taper. <S> That means a slightly thicker bulge in the wall. <S> If it's done well it won't matter, though. <A> Think about how you're going to trim out the room. <S> You'll use some sort of baseboard molding, how tall is it? <S> You can hide that much drywall seam behind it. <S> It probably won't be 8" tall, so maybe you could put a small filler piece of drywall <S> (maybe 4"?) <S> down low, then put a cove molding up top and cover another small filler piece of drywall behind that. <S> Sure, that's 2 seams instead of 1 , but since they're hidden behind the trim, you don't have to tape & mud very nicely. <S> Heck, you might not need to tape & mud at all! <S> BONUS! <S> Or, you could put the extra bit right in the middle of the wall and hide it behind a chair rail, thus hiding it in plain sight. <S> Or, you could install 4x10' drywall vertically by cutting it to the 8'8" measurement you need and only have vertical seams (with their feathered edges, which make finishing easier) to tape and mud. <A> I'd put the patched drywall at the bottom, near the floor, for several reasons. <S> It takes more work to plaster and sand, because there are more joints. <S> This is easier to do while standing, not working off a ladder or stilts or scaffold. <S> There's a good chance that you'll be putting furniture along some of the walls, which will hide anything. <S> If it suits the decor, a bold geometric pattern can hide a pretty bad plastering job. <S> But simply spend more time on your plastering and sanding, and the surface should be as good as anywhere else on the wall. <S> A good sanding job is worth the time and effort. <S> Wood is a fine lining product and scuffs give it character without compromising function. <S> You can do a lot with sanding and stains. <S> On the other end of the wall, putting the patched bit at the top means that it would be very hard to see any errors. <S> People generally don't look up, and the top of the wall is often a little darker than the rest of the room because light fittings tend to illuminate down more than up. <S> Downside is working a little higher <S> can be frustrating with platforms and ladders etc. <S> Either way, if you can put a batten behind the joint, or arrange for the joint to be over a stud or dwang, then it becomes much more rigid and easier to plaster.
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A flat/matte paint as opposed to a gloss will reduce visibility of any minor variances, as would a wallpaper lining. The outcome will be the same regardless, since a well-done tape joint is more or less as strong as the sheet itself. You might even want to dig through the removed wood panelling/trim and see if there's enough to create a lower panelling line.
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How can I disconnect rusted tail piece mount from popup flange? I am experiencing a water leak from some sort of waste trap piece below my bathroom sink. This piece sits directly above the U trap. Here's a photo. This trap looks unusual, in that it seems a bit different from most of the wider traps. Any pointers on what the name/make of this piece is, or where what replacement part to look for? UPDATE: I've unscrewed and detached mostly everything but am having a hell of a time trying to actually remove the popup drain assembly. I've updated my post above to show whats going on. I've tried the pliers trick to stop the pop up flange from moving but no luck so far. Am I doing something wrong? Should i be trying to unscrew the tail piece mount or the tail piece itself? If not, are there any tools/strategies that I may not be using that would help loosen the gridlock? I feel like I must be doing something wrong. The channel lock pliers I cannot hold fast enough and are stripping the grooves a bit. Is this the correct strategy? <Q> You need a spud wrench to hold the upper drain flange (which is threaded to the lower drain assembly) so you can unscrew the drain from the flange. <S> Cheap ones (which are hard to hold) look like this: Good ones (which are easy to hold with a large wrench) look like this: <S> And like it or not, you need a helper to either hold from above or turn from below whilst you are doing either. <S> NOTE- there are many tools colloquially called "spud wrench", these are plumbers' spud wrenches. <S> NOTE- <S> I have substituted for a spud wrench in a pinch by sliding my ChannelLock plier handles down into the strainer from above, as a holding tool. <S> NOTE- sometimes none of this works, that's when I use a mini-hacksaw to cut relief slots around that upper drain flange and break it off. <A> The trap looks standard to me. <S> What you're pointing at is just a drain assembly nut, but replacing that won't fix your leak. <S> I'd replace the entire popup drain assembly. <S> They aren't that expensive and you'll have nice shiny parts on top. <S> This diagram gives you a better idea what's involved. <S> source <A> It appears that yours has a rubber gasket under the bowl, and that the gasket has failed. <S> Put a bucket under the trap (that's called a "P-trap", BTW, not a "U-trap") <S> I'm not sure what you mean by "unusual" and "wider <S> ", this looks reasonable from this angle. <S> If it's working, don't worry about it. <S> Unscrew the two connections on the P. <S> They should be hand tight, though you may need a pair of pliers to loosen them - gunk build up can make them really tight. <S> If pliers are necessary, wrap a rag around the nuts to protect them from the plier jaws. <S> Wait for all the water to drain out. <S> Shouldn't be long, but it may drip for a minute or two. <S> Get all the scum, hair, etc. <S> out now while you've got easy access to both ends. <S> Disconnect the drain plunger at the back, near the wall <S> These have different attachment methods - you'll need to figure yours out or provide close up pics if you can't Unscrew the tail piece from the strainer filter inside. <S> If necessary/desired, you can replace the tail piece with a brand new one, but then it will be all nice and shiny while everything else looks a bit used, making it stand out. <S> Installation is reverse of removal. <S> Remember all those nuts should really only be hand-tightened until they stop leaking.
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If you can't get it lose by holding the strainer and having a helper unscrew the pipe (again with a rag and pliers if necessary) they make wrenches that are designed to hold the strainer. Take this opportunity to give the trap a good cleaning. Your part is labeled "Lock Nut". That's the tail-piece of the drain. Take the tail piece and gasket/washer to your local plumber's supply store (support your local businesses) or big-box and get a replacement.
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Why are there three cables coming into my ceiling fan box? I'm working on a new ceiling fan install. I pulled out the old light fixture (traditional fixture) with three sets of wires coming into the box (three hot, three neutral, and three grounding wires). There is only one light switch, so why are there three sets of wires? One long hot wire was connected to the hot wire receptor on the fixture, two shorter hot wires were held together with a nut and not connected to the fixture, and the three neutral wires were held together and ran to the neutral receptor. I tried to copy this after I installed the new fan outlet box and support bar, however, I can't get the power to turn on to the fan. Here are the installation instructions that I followed to a "T". Any help to solve this problem would be much appreciated. Thank you. This is how the wires were bunched with the old fixture. The white wires were combined. I think that the long black wire is coming from the box because it is coming in from that direction. The one on the left is connected to the fan, the one on the right is not. Here is how I connected the white wires for the fan. <Q> (A partial answer) <S> Why are there 3 cables in the box? <S> One cable brings power from "upstream", either directly from the circuit breaker to the fan, or from the breaker via another fixture. <S> This should be the cable that you connected to the fan. <S> This is what enables the switch on the wall to operate the fan. <S> The last cable takes hot power from the box to another fixture somewhere. <S> Turn on all the lights in the house, then turn off the breaker that controls the fan. <S> See what else turns off - that's where this other cable leads. <S> (Once you've figured that out, you may want to be sure the label for the breaker accurately describes what it powers <S> so you don't have to figure it out again in the future.) <A> The diagram for connections must be adapted for your case because the diagram does not consider that there is a wall switch. <S> The cable connecting the wall switch to the receiver has a white and a black, one of which must be a line hot and the other a switched hot. <S> It can be wired either way. <S> The white in the cable from the switch is not a neutral. <S> It cannot be connected to neutrals and at some point will be connected to a black wire. <S> If the white is the switched hot, then the white will connect to the black input lead to the receiver. <S> If the black is the switched hot, then the white will be the line hot and it must be connected to the black line hot or hots of the house wiring using a wire connector. <A> So the solution was a combination of things. <S> The wires were loose causing some of the issues <S> The white wires in the box needed to be connected together by a nut. <S> The remaining two black wires (shorter) needed to be connected and fed to the white wires. <S> The longer black wire needed to be connected to the black wire in the fan. <S> Thank you all for the help! <A> Jim is correct one of the wires in the box is not a neutral one of the wires is a switch leg you need to identify the black from the switch and the white from the switch put the white from the switch to the hot wire and put the other black wire to the fan
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One cable leads from the fan to the switch.
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How can I cut slots in the ground to install insulation panels? To build a geothermal greenhouse, I need to insulate a thermal mass -- basically the ground directly the greenhouse. The insulation will be for the underground "walls" only, no floor, and 5 feet deep. As an alternative to having to break up my 6-inch-concrete-paved backyard and then digging a hole, putting up the insulation walls, and refilling the hole, I thought of cutting out only the "slots" for the walls (basically just cutting out a 2-inch "moat" that goes 5 feet deep, around the greenhouse, and then filling it with insulating foam. How would I achieve this, what tools/techniques would I have to use? What type of contractor would do this and how would I find them? <Q> You'll have to excavate to the width of a backhoe. <S> In the case of a mini-excavator, this might be 12". <S> If you have ideal soil you might get a cable trencher to clean out a slot, but they're really designed to backfill as they go. <A> Nearly impossible to do it that way. <S> As close as you might find would be to use a ditch-witch or similar trenching tool, and few of those will go 5 feet deep, and if they do, odds are excellent that the trench will collapse before you can insert foam. <A> Boy, that sounds like the hard way to make a thermal mass, especially in light of the already present concrete. <S> I’m also concerned with how you are not insulating the bottom of the “dirt thermal mass”. <S> Here’s a quick science question. <S> You want the largest thermal mass possible in a given space. <S> Your choices are a) depleted uranium (freakishly dense) or b) plain old tap water. <S> Which would perform better? <S> Answer is b) tap water. <S> Thermal “mass” has nothing to do with actual mass . <S> Dirt is a weak thermal mass, and concrete isn’t much better - but <S> more importantly, both are rather poor thermal conductors . <S> Water, however, is an excellent thermal condutor and the best thermal mass known. <S> You’ll want these plants set up on shelves anyway for ease of gardening, <S> so here’s what I propose. <S> Come up the sides with also very good insulation. <S> Everywhere except the aisles, put tanks of water. <S> Say, 55-gallon drums stood vertical and packed dense. <S> Set the planters on top of those. <S> Packed all in heavy insulation, that water will hold heat like crazy. <S> In fact you’re betting on that because you don’t want the water to freeze (though you can certainly use non-toxic propylene glycol antifreeze if needed). <S> All this doesn’t require digging, hard construction problems, or modification of the concrete slab.
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Unless you're in the perfect type of sand/clay soil, with no gravel or rock larger than say 1/4", this won't happen. Lay thick layers of insulation on top of the existing concrete; this will be the subfloor of your greenhouse.
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Is it normal for air to be leaking from this part of the HVAC? First time living in a house. While I was cleaning (AC was also running) I noticed that somewhat cold air leaks from the circled part of the furnace on either sides. Not sure if this this information is relevant: My electric company shows usage comparison to neighbors (mostly town houses), it says I am about 30-40% higher than my neighbors. Is this normal for air to be leaking here? Should I do anything about it? <Q> "duct tape" - <S> this is what it is actually designed for! <S> Though actually I would use a good metal tape like : <S> However, would that explain 30% difference in energy usage? <S> No. <S> Maybe 1%, if that, since any leaked air is still going into your house and not to to the outside. <S> The typical utility company comparison is based on very broad comparisons. <S> At best, they will compare single-family-home to single-family-home and townhouse to townhouse. <S> I've never seen any that actually take square footage or other factors into account. <S> Your 30% difference could easily include one or more of: electric vs. gas hot water electric vs. gas heat electric vs. gas kitchen appliances (e.g., I have a gas cooktop, but the house originally had electric and most of my neighbors still do) <S> number of people in the house (more people = more computers, lights, cooking, etc.) <S> typical temperature setting for air conditioning and whether you set back the temperature during the day (well, in the old days when people went to school or worked outside the home...) quality of windows lighting - incandescent vs. fluorescent vs. LED and many other things. <S> Bitcoin mining in your basement? <A> Any of the following could apply plus others we cannot guess. <S> You run your AC more than the neighbors. <S> You are running an electric car charging process every day or so. <S> You have electrical powered heat, cook stove, water heater, or cloths dryer whilst neighbors are using natural gas appliances. <S> You are running high power tools like saw tables, jointers, lathes, planers, grinders in your shop. <S> Your furnace filter is probably behind that lower metal lid. <S> You may want to investigate the air filter. <S> If it was all clogged up with dust this could be causing an increased pressure in the forced air unit and causing more cold air to leak out than it would with a clean filter. <A> Leaking air is insignificant. <S> Find something else to worry about.. <S> Refrigeration Tech <S> 30 years <A> I've never heard of that. <S> I'd put some duct tape on it for your peace of mind and move on.
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To really decide if the cold air leak on your furnace is a problem you could cover that crack (opening) with duct tape and see if that results in a more effective use your AC cooling the other parts of your house. Your notification that you are targeted to be using 30% to 40% more energy than your neighbors is interesting information but probably is a poor comparison since there are so many factors that can lead to your total consumption. You are using lots of bright incandescent and halogen light bulbs when the neighbors have converted over to all LED lighting.
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My kitchen cabinets were mounted with drywall screws. How can I better secure it to the wall? The kitchen cabinets in our apartment were hung with drywall screws which has been flagged to us as a safety concern because they might not bear the load when the cabinets are fully loaded with dishes: My understanding is these screws can be removed and replaced one at a time with hardware to better support the load. Is that right? If so, what hardware would you recommend I use for this? Some sort of anchor I'm guessing? <Q> Don't Replace, ADD <S> Removing the screws is a lot of extra work, for no real benefit. <S> In fact, you might even find that some of the old drywall screws snap when you try to unscrew them, and then you have no practical choice but to add other screws anyway, leaving the partial screws in the studs. <S> Just add proper cabinet screws. <S> Depending on the layout, you should be able to move a little up or down or left or right from each existing screw and put in a cabinet screw. <S> Predrilling holes slightly smaller than the new screws is highly recommended. <S> That will make it easier to drive the screws, minimize the risk of any cracking, and also let you easily tell if you are hitting a stud (which you want here). <S> Thinking about this a little more, this is definitely a case where having two charged up drill/drivers would make the job much easier - one with a drill bit, the other with a screwdriver bit. <S> If you've only got one, I'd pre-drill <S> a bunch of holes then come back around with the screws. <A> There are screws designed for hanging cabinets, they are called cabinet screws . <S> Some have more attractive heads, if that is important to you. <S> You need to hit the studs. <S> Hopefully, the existing screws hit the studs. <S> Assuming that you have wood studs, if you have metal studs, you will need advice from someone else. <S> An impact driver is very useful when driving long screws. <S> Yes, you can replace them one at a time, if the cabinets are empty. <A> Any generic gold construction screw will do in wood framing. <S> #9 x 3" are a common size for that purpose. <S> If you have metal studs you'll need a fine-toothed screw. <S> Torx-head screws are the easiest to drive, but Phillips are fine if you use a fresh driver bit and good technique. <S> While I don't recommend black oxide screws for load bearing applications, millions of homes in the US have cabinets installed with them. <S> I've never once heard of them falling due to broken screws. <S> I've even done a lot of demolition and haven't found them particularly lacking. <S> The problem comes when they get bent. <S> The don't tolerate bending much at all, so if a sloppy carpenter kinks one during install it'll be very weak and possibly snap upon tightening. <S> My objection to using them mostly comes from frustration around that issue. <A> I agree with isherwood. <S> I've worked on a lot of houses (as an electrician). <S> All I've ever seen used for hanging cabinets is what most people would call a drywall screw. <S> They are actually quite a bit longer than the typical drywall screws, with some of them having a very small head. <S> These screws are made of hardened steel, which makes them very strong; they will also break if you overtighten or bend them. <S> I've never seen them fail. <S> I used them to install my own cabinets over 20 years ago and they are still on the wall. <S> I'd leave them alone, or if you are concerned, add more as recommended above by "manassehkatz-Moving 2 Codidact."
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Anectodally, I'd say there is nothing wrong with these screws, installed properly, except they don't match the color of the cabinet, and they can rust if exposed to weather.
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Affixing a sail shade to balcony railing with a pole I need suggestion on how to put up a triangular sun shade sail over my balcony. There are already two pre-drilled holes on the wall where I can hook up the two corners. Now is the third corner of the canopy. My old plan was to attach it to a pole and affixate the pole somewhere on the balcony railing. The pole has to be tilted slightly outward, I used a bamboo pole and placed it behind the planter, but it was never sturdy when the wind was strong, and it has already snapped. This is an illustration from the side of my balcony (forgive my drawing) This is the railing. The parasol holder is where I want the pole to stand but can't think of a way to hold a pole with it at tilted angle sticking outward. And the two other corners of the sail see below. Ideally I'd like to tuck them away like this behind the pigeon spikes when I'm not using the balcony. The sail is 3m x 3m x 3m, but the balcony is not that wide, hence the third corner will be a little bit out. Would it be possible to utilise the parasol holder to hold a pole at a tilted angle. Perhaps with the help of small gadget such as fishing rod holder? I don't know much about the maths of how much wind the sail can take if the pole is put up like that... I want to use a pole because my balcony is really tiny, and I want to avoid things like sand/water base... Thanks for reading this, any suggestions welcome :) <Q> Generally speaking, when the wind gets behind a sail, it exerts considerable force. <S> People have crossed hundreds of miles of ocean with no more than 3m x 3m x 3m. <S> If you manage to affix the corner of the sail firmly to a sturdy pole and affix the pole immovably to the railing, you may be rewarded with the sight of sail, pole, railing, and all soaring off over the courtyard. <S> Even if it doesn't actually break, your landlord is not going to be happy about what happens to that railing. <S> I checked some online introductory sail and rigging tutorials. <S> According to their calculations, if a gust of wind is deflected by your building and strikes your sail nearly upward (or downward) at about 35 mph, the force exerted by each corner of the sail upward (or downward) would be about 200 pounds. <S> The structure that is least likely to damage your balcony is a full pyramid. <S> Find two rigid lightweight poles <S> each 3m long, attach them together at the ends, and form them into a triangle based at the pre-drilled holes. <S> Prop up the free end of the triangle with a third pole, with its bottom attached to the base of one of the railing stanchions. <S> Attach the outer corner of the sail to the place where the three poles meet. <S> Do not brace the vertical pole against the railing. <S> Let its motion be constrained entirely by the two poles along the sides of the sail. <S> Note that whatever fixtures you install at the locations of the pre-drilled holes will also have to hold against momentary upward (or downward) loads of 200 pounds. <A> no no no, stop before you get someone hurt. <S> listen <S> i have the same types of coolaroo sails <S> and I anchored them to brick wall. <S> im on the ground,being on a balcony and anything <S> pole-ish is asking for it it to fail or give way to causing damage. <S> that is if the rigging/ nots hold up.the commercial way of fixing those sails is a sch80 pipe of at least 3" OD if not larger ( <S> steel).look for other options of providing shade. <S> maybe something temporarythe <S> last thing you want is to tear up your balcony my two cents <A> I think you should consider a heavy-duty adjustable flag/pole holder like shown below. <S> I also think that you are under-estimating the forces that the wind may create; <S> it is a sail after all. <S> You should also consider a method of attaching guy-wires to the tip of the pole to reinforce it against wind loads. <A> after looking at it again, for the side closest to the house (top) we'll call it ledger side, take a 2x4 @8-12" long and drill for eyelet of at least 3/8 thick, wood screw that into the house at locations where the sail rigs. <S> for the pole side you will have to make something tall enough to stand under the sail and configure it. <S> do it in such a way should it blow away <S> the pole is still there mounted. <S> the plastic mount illustrated is fine but it doesn't look to sound and might be better off making something a bit more durable .. <A>
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I would take up welding and make your own pole type fixture and mount it with the bolt pattern shown above..maybe put a radius type bend in it to achieve desired results
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Do i need to mud the top of horizontally mounted drywall if i am hiding the seam with quarterround? I am doing a bedroom with horizontally hung drywall. The ceiling in the bedroom is already drywall with popcorn on it. The existing wall is just wood panel with nothing behind it. Am hoping to hide ceiling and floor lines with trim. If I hide the top edge with quarter round trim, do i need to mud the top or bottom due to the bevel edge? <Q> At the bottom the baseboard would be at a slight angle and could screw up your mitered angles. <S> The bevelled edge will definitely show up at the top with only quarter round mounted up there. <A> Without tape and mud the top joint would allow air infiltration and insect ingress. <S> AFIK <S> it is always done and may be the code. <S> What size quarter round did you have in mind? <S> The proper molding would be some crown molding. <A> No, you do not need to. <S> A zillion lake homes up here in the Great White North have pine boards for wall paneling, and there's no real seal at ceiling corners other than poly sheeting behind in modern homes. <S> As was mentioned, you probably want to skim to flatten the taping channel.
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If you don't mud the top and bottom, the bevelled edge will show up. Mounting the quarter round up there might be harder than you think. Code doesn't address that as it's purely an aesthetic issue (excepting in cases of firewalls).
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My 20 amp circuit has some 14 gauge wire in it. Is that OK? I have a 20 amp breaker in my 1890’s home with 12 gauge wire attached to it. Further down the line (Where I can not see) there is some old 1960’s 14 gauge Romex wire attached to it within the walls of the house. This old 14 gauge wire is attached to a plug I want to tap into with 14 gauge wire to add a ceiling fan in my bedroom. Is this ok? <Q> Since your 20A circuit has 14ga wire attached to it, it's already illegal -- adding more 14ga wire to it won't change that situation as far as the code is concerned. <S> But adding load to it may well start a fire inside your walls and burn your house down, since a 20A breaker or fuse can't properly protect 14ga wire. <S> You're lucky in that it hasn't overloaded so far, but your new ceiling fan may well be the straw that breaks the camel's back. <S> To correct this problem, and make both your existing installation and your proposed extension legal and safe, you should change the breaker on that circuit to 15A. <A> Technically, no. 14ga needs to be protected by a 15A breaker, not 20A. <S> Your choices are to replace the breaker with a 15A, find and replace the 14ga section, make an entirely new run for your new fan, or ignore it and take your chances. <A> No, that is not ok. <S> All the wiring downstream of a 20A breaker/fuse must be 12 Ga copper or larger ( <S> 10 Ga or larger for aluminum).
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You may not have 14Ga copper (or 12 Ga aluminum) downstream of a 20A breaker/fuse.
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Applying urethane to table: brush or pad? I am finishing the stain coat of my revamped desk, and I am wondering, after much enjoying using a staining pad rather than a brush, if I could use a pad for the urethane as well — or will that leave streaks? What do you folks use to apply polyurethane, is it a brushes-only world? <Q> well i just got done with staining and polyurethane a few projects.. <S> i was supposed to sand smooth and coat <S> but i just hit it with 60grit and brushed it <S> on.there are stain/poly type products that are applied with one step.. <A> I prefer a decent foam brush, but I don't see why a pad couldn't do as well. <S> Since you have a large area, you will need to get the finish on and leveled out and uniform over the entire surface as quickly as possible, at least for the finish coat. <S> To get real time practice, using a foam roller, get the finish over the surface uniformly, after that is done, use the pad dampened with finish to level the surface, getting rid of the minuscule texture left by the roller. <S> Let dry the recommended amount of time before sanding with 240 to 320 grit, getting the surface satiny smooth. <S> Then, since you now have a better feel for getting the finish over the surface, set a lighter, but complete coat over everything again and level out one last time with the pad. <S> It is important to not let the finish to start drying wile applying the finish. <S> The term "wet edge" is used a lot in this type of finishing. <S> and then the finish will show a seam (lap) there. <S> So get it on the whole surface quick to alleviate the lap made by not maintaining a wet edge. <S> You could go a third coat since it is a wear surface, but for the sanding, use only 320G since the surface will be really smooth by this time. <A> Polly-Shades has the stain and the urethane of sorts already mixed into the product , i just used a brush made specifically for stain, yes <S> if it dries on you while applying you will have a hard time, I think dude said it right "wet edge"
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You could use a pad exclusively, but you would need to watch how you apply so that when you start applying finish beside a part you did a few minutes before, depending on the conditions may have started to dry
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How do I test a GFCI circuit breaker (without pushing the "test" button)? I want to test if my oven can trip the GFCI. The leakage current should not be a problem but I worry about the GFCI would trip at high frequency. So I bought three circuit breaker and tested oven on them individually. They all didn't trip. But I just realize that my lab has a circuit breaker too. Will the circuit breaker on another circuit breaker impacts my results? The oven is a commercial oven. I am not familiar with how commercial kitchen do this. Do you think I should buy some portable GFCI and receptacle GFCI to test as well? <Q> They do make testers but it depends on where you live to the model used. <S> I will guess you are in the US since this is a new requirement. <S> The good thing about us power is the max voltage to ground is 120v240v is 2 120v lines that are out of phase so the max voltage to ground is 120v where other places in the world have 240v to ground. <S> I have a fancy one that plugs into a wall socket and a precision 10 turn pot <S> so I can verify from 3ma to 100 ma depending on the type of protection required (personal or equipment),According to the NEC commentary in the handbook GFCI’s for personal protection <S> is required <S> the set points are from 4-6 ma <S> you can do like I did with my 180$ tester and turn it into a 4 wire tester with a receptacle and <S> a plug mounted in a box (ok the first few times I did it <S> I just used wires on the prongs <S> but you can use a standard tester with an adapter to test Connecting the smaller prong (hot) to one of the hot(s) and the ground round pin on the tester to the ground on the stove <S> receptacleWhen <S> the test button is pressed a 15.5k resistor is connected from ground to a hot this <S> is above the 4-6 at almost 8 ma but a good test unless you want to purchase the pro model and record the exact trip point I have a switch on my setup <S> so I can test both hot’s after checking 5 or 6 <S> they all trip at the exact same level no matter which hot is connected. <S> I have not seen a commercially available tester <S> so I made one that will work with either of my standard receptacle testers. <S> If you really want to test this was the cheapest way I could find to do it. <A> I have a NEMA 10 outlet To lay out an exception here, if this is a NEMA 10 (hot-hot-neutral) receptacle, this is a train wreck waiting to happen: GFCI provides far worse than no protection to a NEMA 10 socket: it provides zero shock protection while creating the illusion of protection. <S> NEMA 10-wired appliances bootleg their chassis to neutral, which defeats the purpose of GFCI. <S> This bootlegging must be removed as part of the procedure for converting to a NEMA 14 outlet, and a NEMA 14 outlet must be fit without ground. <S> I have a NEMA 14 outlet, but it’s not grounded <S> Now, if you have a NEMA 14 outlet, you should look seriously at legally retrofitting a ground wire, because that will make this go much, much better. <S> If you can’t do that, then temporarily provide an equipment ground to your ungrounded NEMA 14 recep; drape it in an obvious, hokey way as to remind yourself to remove it when the test is done. <S> My NEMA 14 is grounded (even if illegally) Now, obtain one of the illegal “cheater cords” that plug into a NEMA 14 outlet and provide 2 separate banks of NEMA 5-15 receps. <S> Plug any common-as-dirt GFCI tester in to one of the receps. <S> Push the “TEST” button. <S> The GFCI should trip. <S> Reset and move the GFCI tester to a recep on the other “leg”. <S> (If you don’t know which that is, test more than 50% of them). <S> Push TEST again. <S> Should trip. <S> I have a NEMA 6 outlet, and it’s grounded. <S> You will have to build your own “illegal cheater cord” of the above type. <S> Obtain a NEMA 6 plug, and two 3-prong extension cords. <S> On the extension cords, lop off the plug end, you won’t be using that. <S> Both cords’ grounds go to ground. <S> Both cords’ neutrals are insulated (even from each other!!). <S> Each cord’s hot goes to one of the NEMA 6 hots. <S> Then you do the GFCI tests as above. <S> This cable is useless for anything else. <S> Never connect the neutrals to ground! <A> Why would a GFCI provide zero protection with a NEMA 10? <S> If the chassis somehow becomes hot (e.g. due to a broken neutral) and someone touches it, the resulting current through their body to ground should trip the GFCI. <S> I guess GFCI breaker would trip immediately, because the 120V control unit puts current on neutral wire (thus imbalance between the hots). <S> Unless the GFCI has all three conductors (hot, hot, neutral) running through the current sensing core. <S> Then it would protect against shock current due to, say, neutral (and chassis) being at different potential from the water pipe or garage floor near the appliance.
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I used a standard 120v receptacle single a single pole double throw switch And a 50 a 4 wire range power cord , plug my tester in and push the button on the cheap home owner one or dial the resistance until it Tripp's this fit in a single gang box with a 3/4 cord grip.
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Can I replace a quad breaker with a tandem breaker? My panel has a 15-amp breaker for two-bathroom outlets and two outdoor outlets. Is that normal? I would like to replace that with a 20 amp breaker. Also, I want to replace my water boiler with the "Ecosmart ECO 36 - 36kw 240V 150A Electric Tankless Water Heater" but that requires 4 x 40 amp breakers (my electrical panel is 200 amps). So I'm trying to make room for it on my electrical panel by replacing the quad breaker with a single-pole tandem 20 amp breaker since the water boiler won't need the quad breaker anymore. Is all of that possible and correct to do? In the future, I will remove the furnace and replace it with an all-in-one heat pump, perhaps some of the furnace breaker slots will be freed up. Another thing to note is that my refrigerator and microwave are on the same line and when the toaster and microwave get used the microwave power dims a bit. My microwave keeps dying every few years. Perhaps the fridge and microwave should be on their own breaker, right now it feels like too many things are competing for power on that line/breaker. My electrical panel is exactly the way the electrician left it when the home was made in 2006, except for the labels. <Q> I would SERIOUSLY reconsider an on demand, tankless electric water heater. <S> All the hype about the tankless: IE: <S> Why keep 50+ gallons of water hot all the time when you don't use it? <S> Well, once the water is heated it pretty much stays heated given the quality of the insulation on electric water heaters these days. <S> While tankless gas WH might make some sense (I still don't like them), a tankless electric <S> WH is a MAJOR POWER DRAW and more complicated than a tank type. <S> I don't think you'll ever get cost recovery on the small energy savings you might get from a tankless. <S> Have you considered a HP water heater? <S> I don't know a lot about them, but they operate on a heat pump principle. <S> I hear their recover time is very slow, but there are real energy savings there. <A> First NO you cannot just change breaker sizes. <S> Second is your panel even rated for tandem or double stuff breakers? <S> And last ARE YOU KIDDING?You want to put a 150 amp water heater on a 200 amp service, do you plan on turning all the lights off unplugging the refrigerator and freezer so you can cook dinner on the range? <S> Also make sure the dryer and furnace is off. <S> No your service is not even close to large enough to put that water heater in. <S> You will need a 30/40 panel at least some call a 320/400 panel. <S> From experience you should first find someone with a similar model. <S> I have upgraded a customers service installed a similar sized unit, then added point of use kitchen and bath and the home owner was not happy / upset and had me return the system to a tanked system after almost 20k spent. <A> Well done with all the pics! <S> You'd be amazed how many people don't think of that. <S> NO! <S> ALL <S> the wiring protected by that breaker is 12AWG. <S> If there is any 14AWG wire anywhere in the circuit, you're creating a fire hazard. <S> 14AWG isn't designed to handle 20 amps <A> I agree with the responses you received, you can’t exchange a 15amp breaker for a 20amp without changing the wire size to #12. <S> In regards to changing the entire panel....the size of the wire feeding the new panel will have to be increased to handle the potential load of the new panel. <S> In my area microwaves, refrigerators, and dishwashers all require a dedicated 20amp circuit. <S> I also agree that tankless water heaters are too expensive, the payback/break even time is too long. <S> Standard water heaters are pretty efficient, just check that they aren’t set too high. <S> Good luck. <A> I'm adding another "answer" to be sure to consider flow rate. <S> My son decided to use a tankless water heater (fairly large one), but didn't consider flow rates needed. <S> I was showing the house to a builder friend of mine and he spotted the fancy, multi head, high flow rate shower in the MB and then noticed the tankless. <S> Took a look at the tankless <S> and he said, no way can that support the flow rate needed for the shower. <S> So after discussions with the plumber decided to add a SECOND tankless <S> WH! <S> So please consider the flow rate needed and that your tankless can support it.
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You cannot simply replace a 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp breaker unless ... You would not be able to get a permit with the existing service panel.
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Is it OK to replace a 15A outlet with 20A outlet as long as it's already on a 20A breaker? My circuit panel has a 20 amp breaker on the circuit that leads to the garage (I know this only by the little 20 on the head of the breaker switch). The garage has one 15A outlet, a few lights, and two garage doors. I want to plug in a treadmill into the garage. The treadmill has a NEMA 5-20P plug on it and has a label that says it draws 18 amps at 120 V. Is it safe to replace the 15A outlet with a 20A (NEMA 5-20R) outlet and plug the treadmill into it? I imagine running the treadmill at full velocity and opening a garage door might trip the breaker, but are there any other downsides? <Q> Yes, you can do that <S> but it would have to be a 20 Amp GFCI outlet. <A> There are rare circumstances and sometimes local exception that allow a #14 tap to a single receptacle on a #12 20A circuit, so you need to examine the wire feeding the receptacle. <S> But 18A with a NEMA 5-20? <S> That's odd, NEC 210.21(B)(2) limits cord connected loads to 20A receptacles to 16A, and it is very rare to see a Listed (UL) device violate the electrical code. <S> Also the instructions included with the appliance are part of the Listing (UL), if they say to use an a dedicated circuit then this is required to satisfy Code and the Listing . <S> Also as noted by others the code now requires receptacles replaced in garages to be GFCI. <A> Yes, what Jack said: GFCI, and make sure the cable from 20A breaker is no less than #12 AWG.
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There are extremely limited cases where 20A breaker with #14 wire is permitted, I think all related to dedicated circuits for certain electric motors. It's always a good idea to check the wire size to make sure you have #12 AWG wire.
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Can I DIY fix the broken main feeder support cable? After trimming the old tree, we found out that the steel cable supporting the main feeder lines is broken: Must have been like that for years. The actual feeder wires are fine, the electricity is on. The steel cable seem not to be really connected to any electrical part, so I assume its function is only to hold the wires. Question: is this something I can fix myself, i.e. by simply clamping them together? Or it requires welding? Or full cable replacement? <Q> You can see right there where the steel cable is bonded to the lighter colored of the three service entrance wires. <S> Yeah, you lost a neutral. <S> This is when we get out the big font and say This is a power outage. <S> Call your power company NOW. <S> Normally these arise as “Hey, my appliances keep blowing up”... or <S> “I measured 84 volts on an outlet” “check your other ones” <S> “Oh, this one is 148 volts”. <S> But the funny thing about lost neutrals is people can take quite some time to realize they have the problem. <S> But yes, that wire is electrically <S> “hot” - well, it’s near ground voltage <S> if everything is working ... <S> but if you go up there and try to rejoin it, you’ll end up with one wire in your left hand and the other wire in your right hand, and the neutral current will try to go through you. <S> Of course, you said “feeder”. <S> That is a word with a specific meaning: it means a cable after the meter going between panels. <S> So supposedly you would have a house and a pole barn or something, and an overhead line feeding a subpanel out there. <S> But that would be 4 wires (with messenger as ground), not 3 as we see in this photo. <S> The specific name for this cable is “service drop”. <S> And the service drop is in the power company’s bailiwick, <S> so they will fix it for free in almost every case. <A> It appears to be the neutral for your triplex service. <S> They should fix it at no cost. <A> The bare connector is a neutral and carries the imbalanced load, and now is relying on the ground rods and other electrodes to conduct the difference between the 120v conductors back to the transformer. <S> It must be replaced. <S> Normally the overhead conductors are the property of the utility and the user has no authority to service it. <S> You should call the utility immediately to replace it, you may have some difficulty convincing them you had no part in damaging it, hopefully you can ask them to look for rust on the cut surfaces. <A> Yes, never touch. <S> Call <S> PG&E. <S> We lived in a triplex in the Bay Area and when the common dryer was used, the lights would brown and dim cyclically. <S> The main electrical drop came in on our unit and I went outside one Sunday night to notice that the bare wire was broken. <S> Called PG&E, they came immediately. <S> Worker donned the full suit, gloves, ground rods and clamps and went up to the roof and spliced it back together. <S> Afterward, he, I and my wife were standing below it and talking about how this might happen and he said "well, sometimes rats chew through them, they seem to like the taste of the electrical current"... to which my wife said "rats?". <S> He shined his flashlight into the large tree above and said "sure, like that one"... <S> The largest &% <S> $*%^d rat was just hanging out. <S> My wife had disappeared behind a closed and locked sliding door... :)
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Call the power company as soon as possible and tell them a wire on your service drop is broken. You should not go near that.
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What is the name of this plug/socket combo from a rangehood? I have a rangehood with some lights for illumination. But they're expensive lamps, mains voltage, not very bright and they run hot. So I'm looking to remove and replace with something LED based. Ideally I'll remove the whole lampholder assembly and store them, and fit a replacement. To do so I'll need to connect to the existing wiring harness with two new plugs. But I don't know the name to search for, and there are many different standards. The lamps are 240 Volt AC. Both sides of the plug are designed to hide the metal contactors from accidental touch. One side is a round prong and a square prong, and the matching connector has round and square holes. Each block is 4 mm per side, though this is hard to measure, could be 20% off. They are mounted inside an earthed stainless steel rangehood. As you can see there is not a lot of slack in the wire, so while I could snip these off there's no space to reconnect them. Also local laws allow me to "plug modules in internally" but not "rewire" so plugging is important. The only other comment is that these are inside the rangehood and are exposed to grease and steam and heat. They're astonishingly clean given an age of ~8 years, with no tackyness or similar feeling, so I suspect I need plastic that is heat-tolerant. Question : What are these called? And do I need a special tool for them - if so what is that called ? <Q> Molex is one of the leading brand names for these connectors, there are several different sizes of pins commonly used Based on the amperage. <S> Some manufactures use different shaped pin and sleeve connectorsThere are tools to slide in and release the connectors so the body can be repinned. <S> The commercial tools are expensive but I have had mine over 20 years. <S> You can get parts online for a few $ molex pins , extraction tools, kits all available on amazon prime. <S> There are also crimp tools (look a lot like wire strippers with a small pair of crimp Jaws again look up molex crimper. <A> That's a fairly standard quick release type connector called a <S> ... um... well.... <S> and they have a bajillion varieties. <S> I'm sure most electronics suppliers as well as electrical supply houses ( <S> i.e. residential/commercial wiring, not "electronics") will have a pretty good supply. <S> You might even find that style at an auto parts store. <S> I'd either browse the link above (or any other electronics supplier <S> - I'm not endorsing DigiKey, just the first link I found) or maybe take whatever it was that plugged into that (i.e. the other side of the connector) into your local electrical supply shop to see if they can find you a matching piece. <S> Then you can replace the bulb/socket/mount with a new one and wire it into your new connector and mount it. <S> Or... <S> You simply snip the connector off of the existing bulb mount and wire the old connector directly into your new bulb mount? <S> That would save you the time of finding a matching one. <S> If the wires are too short on the mating connector, there are tools designed to pull the pins out of these headers so you can desolder/resolder new wire to the pins and reinstall the pins. <S> You may need to replace the pins, but I'm pretty sure those are literally a dime a dozen (plus shipping, handling and local taxes). <A> There's a suggestion from a coworker that this is a "Tamiya connector" used in RC cars for battery power connections From https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamiya_connector <S> Although my rangehood plugs appear to be reverse polarity of the DC battery example, and there's a worrying difference between 7~14 volts DC and 240VAC. <S> UPDATE Turns out that I was incorrect - the halogen lights already installed are 12V not 240V. <S> So I've ordered some of these for testing.
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DigiKey (a very large electronics supplier, and the first result of a search for plastic wiring connector ) calls them rectangular connectors
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Outside garden hose bib plumbing - 1/2" or 3/4"'pex I recently renovated and I now want to setup an outside garden hose. I can either hook it up to the 1/2" PEX or the 3/4" PEX. I have 3/4" PEX coming from main water entry to my water heater, then from there the whole house is on 1/2". (Side story, my water pressure / flow is not that great throughout. Should I hook up my outside garden hose to the 1/2" PEX (that's basically feeding my kitchen) or setup a new new 3/4" PEX from my water heater (not talking about getting hot water out, just the layout)? I guess this ties in the conversation, I currently bought a 3/4" hose, but if a 1/2" hose is recommended, I can do that also. I don't have a big yard (25' * 25'), water source is for washing car and light gardening. Open to advice! PS: Saw this related post : routing hoses in the duff, 5/8" garden hose, or 3/4" garden hose, or 3/4" polyethylene? but still not sure. PPS: Also open to advice on the 1/2" PEX, should I have had this done in 3/4" PEX? <Q> I think you should take off for the outside faucet from the 3/4" PEX. <S> This will have a lesser effect on the water pressure inside the house than taking off on the 1/2" line that goes to the kitchen. <S> You can always throttle back at the outside faucet if you need to. <S> EDITYou could run a 1/2" line to the outside faucet, split off from the 3/4" PEX. <A> Also, your trunk line should have been 3/4". <S> It also depends upon the water pressure supplied by your utility or well. <S> If it's high enough, you can "get by" with 1/2" but bigger is usually better. <S> Re-circ systems fix that, though. <S> I think you already answered your own question regarding your outdoor faucet. <S> I would suggest running 1/2" to the location near the water heater and not continue to overload your existing plumbing. <S> 1/2" is plenty for just one faucet. <A> Pressure loss in a pipe is proportional to the flow through the pipe. <S> A garden hose has potential for high flow, meaning higher pressure loss in the pipe, and you mention that the system pressure is already "not that great." <S> I can think of two reasons not to use a larger-than-necessary pipe: when it simply costs too much to use the oversize pipe (usually because it's a long run), or when you'll have to wait a while for the water in the pipe to be flushed out (as when waiting for hot water to flow from a centrally-located heater to a distant fixture). <S> Probably neither of these applies here. <S> Just as nobody ever comes back to DIY.se and says "I wish my circuit breaker panel didn't have so many open spaces for later use," I also believe nobody would say, for a situation like the one you described, "I wish I'd used a smaller pipe."
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1/2" is fine for individual fixtures such as sinks and dishwashers, but high flow fancy showers should be 3/4" The only disadvantage of 3/4" on a the hot pipe is that it takes longer to get hot water at a remote faucet due to the increased volume of water that needs to be moved.
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Two black wires connected into a single black wire in light switch box I pulled out a one-way dimmer light switch in a bedroom in order to replace with another dimmer switch. Within the switch box, there were two black wires connected together, with another single black wire exiting out of the connector (see the red connector and the yellow arrow). The single black wire exiting the connector was then connected to the switch. Can someone explain why these two wires were connected within the box? Was it to convert a three-pole into a single-pole switch, or for some other reason? Is this something I should be worried about? <Q> The additional black wire is probably continuing the hot to another outlet or light switch. <S> If you were to leave the other wire disconnected, you'd find that other outlets and/or switches would stop working. <S> Just go ahead and connect the new dimmer the same way. <A> That thing there is called a pigtail <S> You probably know that your house has many more “points of use” (places electricity is used) than it has circuit breakers. <S> How does this work? <S> Power (in a cable containing hot and neutral) are brought to a point-of-use (technically that <S> ’s called an “outlet” even if it’s a light/switch)... <S> then hot+neutral are continued onward to another point-of-use. <S> In effect, the outlets are “daisy chained”. <S> You see this all the time in receptacles. <S> They have extra screws just for the purpose of making that “onward cable” easier to hook up. <S> (Tell you a secret: I don’t use them, I pigtail everything . <S> Climb <S> the ladder, flick 3 wire nuts <S> and I’m done. <S> Not recommending that, just making the point that the dual recep screws, and pigtails, are basically doing the same thing.) <S> Switches and lamps don’t have dual screws, so you see a lot of use of pigtails to achieve the same effect. <S> Moreso, you have a double pigtail, where the multiple wires join to a short branch wire, then that short wire joins to another short wire. <S> That’s somewhat redundant, but very harmless (assuming the wire nuts are done competently). <S> So I would leave it just that way, don’t disturb the 3-wire splice, and break the 2-wire splice. <S> That way you are joining 1 wire to 1 wire, and there’s no confusion which is supply and which is lamp. <S> If you broke it up and suddenly have 3 black wires, that turns into a real headache. <S> Competent wire nuts = survives a pull-test without tape. <S> Tape is very bad! <S> A wire that pulls out will also have arcing problems and start a fire. <S> When people tape wirenuts to keep wires from falling out, they do it to conceal the pull-out problem, which also conceals the arcing problem! <A> The 2 blacks connected are "power in, power out" to the next switch in the circuit. <S> The pig-tail to the dimmer connected to the two blacks is also typical. <S> Most inspectors (and I believe the code as well) require rough in to be completed to the extent that the box is "ready to receive the device". <S> What you have is very typical and up to code.
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Getting stranded wire onto receptacle screws is fidgety work, and it’s easier to do at a comfy workbench. Which often means using pigtails. If you were to disconnect the black wires that are connected together from the wall, you'd find that only one has power. This is the typical way to connect a switch.
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Code question: Can electric range outlet with 6 Gage wire be exposed under surface mount box? I am in the USA. I want to change my propane stove to an electric stove. I have read that I should put in a 50 amp outlet with 6 gauge wire.The employee at the big-box store said I could make it easy on myself by using a surface mount box and run the wire up through the floor. Most likely, through the hole that will be left behind when I remove the gas line. I asked if the wire needs to be protected in some fashion like with conduit. He stated and it was not because it was not that far off the ground. What is allowed via NEC codes?Thanks PS is 50 amp code on new construction for range rough in ? <Q> NM, UF and SE all have specs in different chapters, but generally are all similar to the NM requirement in 2017 <S> NEC 334.15(B) <S> that "Cable shall be protected from physical damage where necessary by ... <S> " <S> Generally a surface receptacle installed two inches off the floor, behind the range (like the instructions posted in the comments above) <S> would not normally raise to that level if the existing hole lined up with the zone required by the stove. <S> Actually the code doesn't specify the exact size of circuit for a range, but the circuit has to have adequate capacity for the range used. <S> For greater than 99% of electric residential ranges <A> Ignoring codes, experience, and off-the-cuff responses from big box store employees your question boils down to: <S> Should I make this electrical connection safer? <S> so you asked for some reassurance and received: <S> No, you don't need to make your electrical safer. <S> Yes, make the exposed electrical safer. <S> You'll sleep better at night and you won't be second-guessing your work after it's done. <S> Some things you might not be thinking of right now but are possible: What if a mouse decides to chew through the romex sleeve? <S> What if you're renovating and tearing up linoleum with an oscillating tool and get too close to the wire? <S> What if you go to shift the stove and it catches a foreign sharp object which cuts into your wire? <S> What if you spill hot liquid behind the stove and it melts the sleeves? <S> I'm sure there's other <S> "what-if's" but imagine not having to worry about them by just doing it right. <A> I would cap the propane line. <S> you may want to go back to it at a later date. <S> Most inspectors use below 8’ as the location that the cable needs protection. <S> But as far as specifically calling out 8’ it doesn’t. <S> 334.15.B & C the NEC specifically allows exposed work & requires protection of the cable coming through the floor for 6”. <S> the only place I could find a direct 8’ is guarding of live parts 50-300v <S> is 8’ but cable is not a risk for contact as defined by 110.27.I <S> do believe there was another quasi 8’ rule that I was told in the past <S> but it’s just better to use conduit, Sheetrock or plywood as code specified for protection, schedule 80 pvc, 1/2” plywood or Sheetrock. <A> I'm not yet able to comment, or I would have on other posts. <S> I want, though, to reinforce MonkeyZeus' remarks... <S> Code requirements are MINIMUM. <S> If you design for code, you're designing for "just barely good enough", and leaving no room for variations. <S> Do you want a "just barely good enough" kitchen? <S> The cost of additional mechanical protection is far, far less than the cost of a house fire... <S> what's your insurance deductible?
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If it doesn't line up you could create a situation where damage is possible and protection would be needed if you don't drill a new hole. Unfortunately "where necessary" isn't well defined in the Code and is mostly up to the interpretation of the inspector. But as I mentioned most inspectors view protection against physical damage is below 8’, protected by elevation Sometimes a 40A breaker is called out as required or allowed, but a 50A (NEMA14-50) receptacle is still used with a 40A breaker since NEMA hasn't designated a 40A configuration. Some jurisdictions (like Chicago) have adopted additional requirements that require conduit, you can normally find local ordinances online. #6 copper 4-wire cable and a 50 amp breaker would normally satisfy the requirements for the range.
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How would you repair this broken sprinkler irrigation PVC pipe? Please see the photo. We had a (plastic!) stake hit this (red circle). There doesn't appear to be any leaking from the red circle. Unfortunately, there is quite a bit of spray from the bottom of the elbow joint (the Yellow Arrows indicate the direction of the spray). If you click the photo you can actually see part of the crack on the bottom of the elbow joint. EDIT: As oriented in the picture, the bottom two pipes (with the T and the straight through) are NOT AFFECTED, as far as I can tell. I'm at a loss as to how to repair this. Any ideas? <Q> You'll have to cut the tee pipe on both sides of the tee. <S> Cut the pipe two inches from the edge of the tee in both directions. <S> Also cut to the left of the red circle. <S> Bring your cutout piece to your home store and get new parts and construct a new piece to fit exactly in place. <A> See diagram. <S> Instead of slip (or sleeve) connectors you can have stronger glued joints. <S> It will be less fiddly also. <S> Excavate around the tee, and much more along the upper pipe. <S> cut the higher pipe past the injury, and the pipe going into the tee at a matching place. <S> Also cut as expected on the other side of the tee. <S> Think carefully about the order of joint connection, fitting without glue first. <S> The reason for excavating the top pipe more is so that it can move more. <S> The last connections would be two vertical pipe connections at the same time. <S> Ingredients: 3 elbow connectors, one tee, some pipe, primer, and glue. <A> Two possibilities come to mind. <S> First of all, is this a pressurized main line? <S> or a distribution line that only has pressure when the zone is being operated? <S> It looks like a glue failure from the impact. <S> One trick <S> my plumber buddies use is to put a shop vac on some part of the plumbing and suck in some heavy glue (like Christies Red hot Blue Glue) by applying the dauber to where the pipe enters the elbow. <S> I don't think that will work in this case, but wanted to mention it. <S> If #1 doesn't work you'll have to get into the Tee below that elbow. <S> Expose more of the pipe by removing more dirt to give yourself some working room. <S> Then cut out the Tee and replace it with something like this: <S> Cut the pipes at the correct length for the repair Tee. <S> Then cut the damaged part of the upper pipe (order of cuts doesn't matter). <S> Hopefully you can find one of these fitting with a slip /glue rather than thread. <S> That will get you started.
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Get three slip connectors to connect the three pipes to the existing ones.
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How to seal dryer exhaust vent I am replacing my dryer exhaust vent. Here is a picture of the old one after I removed the cap. I did my best to clean up the old caulking before adding the new tube and vent, which looks like this: As you can see, it's not sealed very well against the brick. I'm not really sure how to go about that. I can't really just splork a bunch of caulking in there because the gaps are too big, especially in the grout lines. The other side of the vent where the dryer hooks up is fairly well sealed, so I'm not too worried about that. But for the outside, do I even need to worry about the sealing plastic cover against the brick? Or should I focus on sealing the metal tube, maybe with caulk or spray foam? The gaps around the tube are definitely caulkable, assuming I can take the plastic cover off the tube to get access. Thoughts on approaches here? FYI, I'm in Austin, TX and the dryer is located in the garage. <Q> In the end I used a sealant putty called Mortite to fill in the space between the tube and the brick. <S> I tried low expansion foam but as it expanded and dried, it squeezed the tube out of shape so that I couldn't fit the cap back on. <S> There was really no way to caulk that area because once the cap is on, you can no longer access it. <S> Then I smooshed the putty into the cracks and placed the cap back on. <S> Had to get some help to make it work <S> but it wasn't too bad overall. <S> I also went ahead and used the putty to seal the metal collar to the wall on the other side where the dryer hose connects. <S> Also I used Loctite to glue a piece of broken stone back onto the wall on the right of the hole. <A> You probably don't need to worry too much for sealing against the air coming out, since it is practically outside. <S> The sealing outside is important for a different reason: to prevent animals coming in. <S> You may want to look into how to do that instead of thinking about airflow. <S> Nothing messes with your vent like a family of birds living in it, or other less desirable animals. <S> For this you'll be looking at more durable meshes instead of air-tight sealant. <A> The Only thing you need to worry about is water entering the wall between the brick and the duct. <S> Before you put your new cap on run good thick bead of caulk around the outside of your duct, make sure you get it in <S> so it seals the space between the duct and masonry. <S> This will be much easier than trying to caulk the cap in place with all the contours of the brick and mortar. <S> Any water that get behind the cap ( the plastic housing for the louvers ) will not penetrate the wall, it will just flow out the bottom of the cap. <A> I draw a line with soap stone at the edge of the cover and remove it now fill the voids 1/2” from the line and re install the cover <S> this will direct the lint out the front. <S> I don’t use a pencil in this case because the black graphite is always obvious For years soap stone is white and washes off with normal weather.
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So basically, I put the vent into the hole with the cap on, secured it to the wall on the other side to it wouldn't move, and took the cap off. As others have said I would not worry buch if the pipe connected to the vent, if the vent is just a cover you don’t want lint hanging out of all the mortar gaps.
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What is this metal block found in our yard? We found this metal block while digging in our yard. It is 3x4x11 inches, very heavy (around 30 lbs), and shows rust. Our property is in Charlotte, North Carolina. Does anyone know what it is and its purpose? <Q> Steel barstock; My guess is some one picked it up where he works to use such as an anvil . <S> It has little cash value so was abandoned when there was no more use <S> or it did not do the job. <S> I have had a few chunks like that , but what do you do with a pressure vessel nozzle cut-out 8" thick 12" diameter of chrome -moly steel ? <S> They get very heavy . <S> This reminds me , many decades ago I had a 4 ft long 18" diameter heavy wall pipe I was going to make into a lawn roller , but I left it behind the shed when I got divorced. <S> Someone is wondering what that is. <A> Iron would be used so it can be found with a metal detector without digging. <S> Survey markers are usually rebar or metal pipe, but I've heard of bricks being used for this purpose too. <A> Could be an unprocessed iron ingot. <S> How or why it was left in the dirt is anyone's guess. <S> According to https://www.aqua-calc.com/calculate/volume-to-weight <S> a 3"x4"x11" block of iron should weigh about 37 pounds which is close to your claim.
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If you found it near the property line, it may be an informal survey marker showing the corner of your lot.
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Electric heat pump water heater with solar power vs. gas water heater I am getting ready to replace my current hot water heater - it is a ~15 year old tank gas water heater so I want to be prepared in case it breaks. In the summer (when I am not using gas to heat the house) I pay on average $20 per month for gas, so as a first-order approximation I pay ~$240 a year for hot water. I also have solar panels, and currently pay nothing for electricity except for the connection fee. My electrical provider offers net metering, so excess electricity made in the summer months count towards the winter months. I haven't had the panels for a whole year so I cannot be sure that I generate a net positive amount of electricity yearly, but it is trending that way at this time. So, for the purposes of this comparison, electricity is currently either free or very cheap, but the addition of an appliance that uses a large amount of electricity could change that. I am trying to decide whether I should replace my current tank gas water heater with a heat pump electric water heater, or with another gas water heater (of some type). Everything I have read about electric heat pump water heaters is that they offer significant energy savings over conventional electric water heaters . I have not been able to find a direct comparison of energy used by a heat pump water heater compared to a gas water heater, so it's not clear to me if I would see any savings (either money or energy) over what I currently pay/use. In terms of potential gas water heaters, I am pretty open to any of tank, tankless, or condensing - my primary interest is saving energy and lowering monthly costs, and am OK with a large up-front cost if need be. Taking into account that I have solar power (e.g. cheap electricity) but also have gas already set up, which of heat-pump electric or gas water heaters is likely to be the most efficient and least expensive to operate? Update Answers to some questions Current water heater is in the garage, and that is where the replacement will go Home heating uses gas I am looking at hybrid heat pump water heaters. Basically, my question boils down to the following: it is known that going from conventional to heat pump electric means savings, and going from conventional electric to gas means savings, but it is not clear to me in what direction the savings flows when going from gas to heat pump electric. <Q> Is your water heater inside the home or outside? <S> I ask this because heat pumps use heat transfer using the heat of the area they are in to create heat. <S> Ok to put it more simply if the water heater is inside the home when the water heater is extracting heat to store in the tank it is cooling that area just like an air conditioner would. <S> So are heat pumps more efficient inside the home envelope <S> barely when compared to electric but compared to gas it will cost more. <S> Also remember that 15 year old gas water heater that is still running , you now have a fancy electronic controlled thermal transfer system with a compressor to pump the process, do you think that will last as long as a new simple gas water heater? <S> I would gladly go back to gas, faster recovery and less monthly cost. <S> I you might think well I don’t like electric stuff. <S> I am a professional electrician that also has universal 608 and 609 (HVAC&R & MVAC) licensees <S> and I like gas better. <S> The only possible advantage is your electric utility may have incentives to go heat pump usually electric to electric but check. <S> My utility paid 99% of me installing my unit but I am licensed so most of the install cost was just my time. <S> Edit they gave me most of the cost of the heat pump unit. <A> The #1 factor in water heater life isn’t raw age (and 15 isn’t exactly geriatric), <S> it’s maintenance of anode rods. <S> Heat pump water heaters aren’t free. <S> They just change the piper you are paying. <S> As Ed Beal says, heat pump water heaters are basically air conditioners that have the “hot side” in a big tank of water. <S> That’s awesome when you want to run air conditioning, throw the utility room door open and enjoy the cool! <S> However, when you want heat, the HPWH is stealing your heats, working against your furnace. <S> And worse, if you bottle the HPWH inside a utility room, it will quickly turn the utility room into a refrigerator, at which point it stops working . <S> You must actively heat the utility room! <S> That is working as intended: the environmental logic of this is that most places have gas heat, so you’re turning 90% of the gas’s energy into water heat, instead of the the 33% you get from converting gas to electricity at a gas thermal power plant. <S> (Turning gas into heat is easy; turning heat into electricity is hard ). <S> Obviously this is an ignominious fail if the house has pure electric heat-strip heating. <A> If you gas to heat the hot water is only $20 a month, It would not make economical sense to change to a heat pump. <S> The cost of a gas water heater would be roughly 1/3 or less the cost of a hybrid heat pump. <S> The gas has low maintenance, just yearly flushing and maybe anode replacement. <S> Gas has a fast recovery time. <S> The hybrid heat pump would require 220 v circuit, has a shorter life cycle, very slow recovery time unless the electric elements are turned on, then it would still be slower than gas. <S> Trying to save $20 a month with a $2000 hybrid water heater with all its short coming would not be practical. <A> Then there's the upfront costs of the heat pump water heater (fairly expensive) <S> .vs. <S> a gas water heater (boringly normal.) <S> While you are OK with a large upfront cost, in cases of slight savings per month you may never recoup a large upfront cost increase before it's time for the next water heater. <S> Finally, there is house heat in heating season (presumably gas?) and whether you cool or would like at least some cooling in the summer - <S> the heat pump water heater cools air, so it contributes to A/C, but also adds (slightly) to your heating load in the winter.
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Depends a LOT on your local costs - in many places, natural gas is quite inexpensive on an "energy basis" but against "nearly free" electricity that might not hold.
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Ideas for making a backyard fort moveable I'm in the planning stage of a backyard fort similar to this , standing on six 4x4 posts with the floor roughly three feet above grade with far more structure than the linked example. Since this thing will need to be placed within a utility easement, one requirement will be that it can be moved. I'm thinking of placing skids made of 4x4s under the posts, joining them to the posts with mortises/tenons, then fixing the skids to concrete pilings. Then I can unscrew the fasteners from the pilings and pull the fort out of the easement on demand on the skids. But will a truck pull this beast? And will the fort be too top-heavy to be moved safely without tipping? Should I skip the pilings and simply level the ground? Are there any other options for fort mobility that I've overlooked? <Q> I'm not sure I'd count on that being particularly mobile. <S> There's going to be a lot of weight on that and dragging it across the ground, even if you put a bevel on the end of the skids, is going to be iffy. <S> There's some diagonal bracing hidden behind the paneling at the deck level, but I'm not certain I'd count on that to hold the whole thing square when you're towing it around <S> and it's bouncing lumbering wobbling across the yard. <S> Even if your lawn is putting-green smooth, it's going to be a rough ride. <S> (And any kid worth his salt is going to want to ride it!) <S> If you use the type of anchors to hold it to the concrete blocks that were mentioned in those instructions, you'll have a hard time getting the wood to slide square out of it, and an even harder time getting it to slide back in. <S> Realistically, you'd probably have to jack it in and out to get it to settle properly into each anchor. <S> If it happens to be in the middle of a hot, humid streak in the summer, the wood will have swollen quite a bit and that will make it really rough. <S> Will a truck pull it? <S> #ItDepends. <S> Are you talking a '78 Datsun pickup, or a Peterbilt? <S> What kind of surface will you be driving on when you're moving it? <S> Will it have just rained? <S> What kind of towing capacity does the truck have? <S> What kind of tires and condition? <S> That's really an unanswerable question for us without a lot more detail, and even then, who knows... <S> Honestly, I'd seriously consider relocating it, or if you can't, modifying the design to keep it out of the easement area <S> so you don't ever have to think about moving it. <S> As a side note, painting the floor will leave a fairly slick floor surface. <S> It will be extra slick if the kids are playing on it in the rain. <S> Also, I wouldn't go with OSB for an exterior project <S> , I don't think it will hold up to the elements particularly well <S> - I'd go with plywood, even if it's a few bucks more. <S> If you build it and make it mobile, I'd love to have you come back to post a video of it being detached from its moorings, moved, reset and reattached. <A> Make the base frame with locating points so you can fit axles underneath. <S> Also make sure the frame will be limited in its flexing. <S> There are truck companies with special low trailers that may help, but will you like the price? <S> I would think around and design around the issue. <A> What about a "two skid" approach, where you lay a set of skids down, then lay a slippery layer - something like the "bunk slicks" they use on boat trailers, then lay another set of skids down, and build the fort on top of those. <S> Then, when/if moving time comes, unpin, and the fort/top skids should slide off the bottom skids, perhaps onto a set of log rollers. <A> In all honesty.. open trenching is largely a thing of the past. <S> There's liability (people falling in, as well as cave-ins), and a lot of cost associated with restoring landscape after an open dig. <S> In the unlikely event that a utility does come along wanting to install new lines through that easement, it's probable that they'd be using directional boring and would tunnel under whatever you have there whether bare dirt, grass, or a play house. <S> If ease of relocation is important because the yard might be re-arranged, or because you might want to bring the play house along in a move, that's one thing. <S> But I wouldn't go to any great pains to design and build a play house specifically for ease of relocation just because it's over an easement. <S> Build it to satisfy any authority having jurisdiction that it's not a permanent structure, ie that it could be moved if necessary.. but expect a move will never actually happen.
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Pin/bolt or plate those top and bottom skid pairs together.
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A 1" T fits the pipe and a 1" valve does not, why? Both of these are labeled 1". The T on the left fits the little bit of grey pipe. The valve on the right is too small. What am I missing? <Q> The difference is deliberate because CPVC is rated for hot water whereas regular PVC is not; they don't want people to accidentally (or deliberately, to save money) install regular PVC pipe or fittings on a hot water system. <S> Look at the valve label. <A> When plastic piping systems were first introduce to the market, the manufacturers tried to make them similar to metalic piping systems so "pipers" would accept them. <S> So they adopted similar wall thicknesses to schedule 40 and sch. <S> 80. <S> Piping systems have to be checked against the pressure and temperature of the process fluid. <S> Here in was the problem. <S> Adopting sch. <S> 40 an 80 wall thickness caused inconsistant P-T rates for different sizes of plastic pipe. <S> The solution was to create plastic pipe with a SDR, which stands for Standard Dimensional Ratio. <S> Could one of you pipe and valve components be for a scheduled piping system and the other for a SDR piping systems? <A> Cpvc and pvc have the same od(outside diameter) and the fittings are interchangeable. <S> The valve is probably just labeled wrong <S> I bet a piece of 3/4 fits the valve just fine
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That valve is for a different type of piping system called CPVC and the sizes and fittings are different. SDR piping has the same P-T ratings regardless of pipe size.
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How many wraps of Teflon tape around nipples that need to point in one direction? I cannot find one source on the Internet that addresses what to do when you’ve wrapped the threads with Teflon, threaded the fitting on and threaded until it’s pointing in the right direction, and it’s not tight but it won’t go around again. The most common example is shower head nipples but the same problem applies with drop fittings. I’ve included some examples. I did the customary 3 wrap, and wasn’t tight enough, so I unwrapped and did 7 wrap. That worked on one, another took 10. I mean, this is the way to do it, but why can’t I find anyone online admitting that this janky method is the solution. And if there is some other trick, please let me know cuz baby needs a new pair of shoes and I ain’t got time for this. EDIT: this isn’t an answer, but it solved my problem. I replaced the elbow fittings with straight fittings and I used elbows in the pipes instead. This way I could crank down on the threaded fittings. <Q> Too much tape and <S> you interfere with the threads meshing to hold pressure, so you end u relying on the tape to do that, and it was not designed for that purpose. <S> If you read the instructions that come with the tape, it probably says that. <A> What I do is first screw the fitting on with no tape and see where it ends up. <S> If it's 90 degrees past where I want it <S> I unscrew it and add a wrap of tape or maybe a wrap and a half for each 90 degrees. <S> Like some things with plumbing it's as much art as science. <A> Maybe teflon tape isn't the right product for your application. <S> Try pipe joint compound aka "pipe dope. <S> " It is a paste applied to the threads with a brush. <S> I find that it does the job <S> (seals the connection) in situations where teflon tape wouldn't. <S> You might also be over-estimating <S> what "tight enough" feels like. <S> It doesn't have to be tightened to the limit of your physical ability; a quarter to a half turn past what can be done by hand is often sufficient. <S> Frequently one can achieve a full turn beyond hand-tight if necessary to get the fitting clocked just right.
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I was taught to never exceed 3 wraps of Teflon tape, because all it is there for is to lubricate the threads and fill in the microscopic gaps between the tapered threads. It varies depending on the fitting but the key is to start with no tape and adjust from there.
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How impactful will it be to lose 7' of radiant heat pipe in a room? My home has a hydronic heating system, with fully enclosed floor radiators. In one room, there is a radiator that runs the length of the room, on the outside wall which is about 20' long. In the center of this run, I want to install a set of french doors to the outside. In order to do so, I will have to have about 7 feet of that run diverted into the floor. So it will run down the wall, dive down into the floor on one side of the door, and then pop back up on the other side and continue on as it was. Will losing this amount of radiator have a significant impact on its ability to heat the room in winter? This is Ohio and it's a west facing wall (windward side). Some additional information, from comments: this is a hydronic baseboard setup, with louvers on them that can beclosed to minimize the convection and thereby limit the amount ofheating. the space where the door will go is already occupied by awindow of greater width, but lesser height. In essence, this willreplace one set of glass for another. <Q> 7 feet? <S> Also, if the walls are insulated, adding the french windows will increase the heat losses anyway <S> so you have two negative effects - less radiator and more heat loss. <S> So you might find you will need to compensate for that. <A> TL;DR <S> That room will become one-third less comfortable. <S> Hydronic heating works best when installed near a cold/draft source such as a window so that the cold air falls into the heater and gets released back out as warm air; this is why it is on your outside walls. <S> Removing 7 feet and placing 6 foot wide french door (presumably windowed not solid wood) is going to produce cold air which gets sucked into radiators elsewhere. <S> In addition to that you are removing 33% of that room's heating capabilities so it will likely feel colder than it used to. <S> If you want to combat this issue then can look into placing vents in every floor bay for that 6 foot door span so that the cold air can be exchanged for warm air efficiently. <S> as you will get zero heating benefit from having the radiator beneath your floor. <S> Ignoring the information about an existing window nor the french door of similar size your question boils down to: I want to remove 33% of the radiant heat from a single room, what will happen? <A> Maybe I am missing something here but the entire loop will still be in the room <S> so there will be heat in the wall <S> And the floor with a longer loop. <S> but my concern would be air trapped in this loop <S> could kill the loop if you don’t have flow restrictors on your manifold.
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Unless it was massively oversized when it was installed then the room will take longer to heat up to temperature and may well feel cold. That is one third of the radiator. So from the cold source you will notice a continuous draft at your feet.
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"Connect the ground wire from the branch circuit to the ground screw"? This is what the directions say for my new pendant light. Both the (metal) box and the fixture have ground wires. The diagram didn't show how exactly to connect the wire to the ground screw (located on the mounting bracket). Do I wrap part of the ground wire from the box around the screw and then wire nut it to the fixture ground wire? Or does it mean I should connect the fixture & box ground wires and then pigtail to the screw?? Want to do this safely. Any help here is appreciated. <Q> That's an excellent question and it can be quite confusing. <S> If you're using a plastic box, it won't have a ground screw, just connect the two ground wires together. <S> If you're using a metal box, there will be a ground screw. <S> In this case, your idea will work just fine. <S> You could also wire a "pig-tail". <S> That would be the ground wire coming in with the rest of the power supply cable, the ground wire from the fixture, and an extra piece of bare ground wire all held together with a wire nut. <S> Then, the other end of the extra wire goes to the ground screw. <S> Either way you choose to connect to the ground screw, be sure you wrap the wire around the screw clockwise so that the wire gets pulled into the screw as you tighten the screw. <S> If you wrap it counterclockwise, it will get pushed out from under the screw as it tightens. <A> I think the intent of the instructions is to emphasize that the bracket needs a proper ground connection, particularly that the mounting screws even on a metal box don't satify the requirement. <S> If your metal box is fed by NM cable (Romex) or conduit with a ground wire then the box needs to be grounded too. <S> If the ground from the cable is long enough you can loop around the screw in the box then the bracket, then connect to the fixture ground. <S> You could certainly pigtail all the connections if the wire is too short. <A> You attach the ground wire from the supply cable to the metal box. <S> Always. <S> If the lamp has a metal frame, and the box is metal, it can ground itself through the mounting screws. <S> Otherwise you’ll need a 3-way pigtail between a pigtail off the box, the supply wire, and the lamp’s ground.
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If fed by conduit with no ground in the conduit then you could connect from ground screw in the box to the bracket and on the the fixture wire.
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Should a UPS be unplugged when working on the electrical circuit it is plugged in to? I need to do some electrical work on a circuit in my home. One of the outlets on the circuit has a UPS battery backup plugged into it. The UPS is tucked away behind a lot of other equipment, so I'd rather not have to unplug it if its not necessary. Is there a risk of the UPS "leaking" (or whatever the term would be) back onto the circuit when the breaker is tripped? That is, for safety, should the UPS be unplugged before I work on the circuit? Specifics in case they matter: I am replacing some switches for lights on the same circuit as the UPS the switches do not control the outlet the UPS is plugged into the UPS is a bXterra BM1500AVRLCD (1500VA) <Q> The UPS battery won't be backfeeding into the house service. <S> DC current won't be flowing back through the rectifier diode. <S> I'd be more concerned about doing something wrong with your switch replacements, turning on the power and frying your UPS board. <S> We see this happening all the time here. <S> Play it save and unplug the UPS and anything else on the circuit while you're working on it. <A> While this should be acceptable, I have personally found a UPS which backfed 240AV out its input pins. <S> I only found this out when brushing against the exposed pins on the wall plug - <S> That UPS went straight in the junk pile! <S> In short, when dealing with mains power, make no assumptions. <S> Use a non-contact voltage indicator or a plug-in lamp or even a voltmeter, to check your assumptions . <S> In your case, the switches are on a different circuit, and you will shut off the breaker to that circuit. <S> When you open the switch plate, check for voltage immediately. <S> And if its still live then stop and re-evaluate. <A> It depends. <S> Cheaper ones have a single (or two) relays that separate the output from the input when there is no power at the input. <S> Bad news are that the relays CAN stick and even if they are sane, a bug in the UPS firmware can engage them in a hard to predict moment. <S> Then again, one can never be sure, esp. <S> if the UPS has "bypass mode" and associated circuity that connects output to the input and you are again at the mercy of the relay quality and the firmware sanity. <S> I would unplug. <S> Everything. <S> p.s. <S> Anyway, it is a bad practice to have an appliance that you cannot quickly unplug from the wall socket. <A> You should not be too concerned, the UPS supplies power to the outlets on the UPS, not to the circuit it is plugged into. <S> When the circuit is opened, the UPS will provide battery backup to the devices plugged into UPS.
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If the UPS is one of those expensive full-conversion zero-switching time types that have a rectifier and an inverter at the input - the chance of it backfeeding something is minimal, comparable to the possibility of an unplugged laptop power supply to feed back something to the plug.
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Should I use a GFCI breaker or receptacles for my shed run? In my question about running a circuit to my backyard shed, a discussion arose in the comments about whether I should use a GFCI breaker or have the convenience outlet be a GFCI. Instead of debating it in comments, I thought I'd ask a new question where the answer will be more obvious and findable for future generations. To recap the situation: I'm running a single circuit out of my sub-panel to my backyard shed for lighting and 1 convenience outlet. This is a storage shed, not a workshop, so there will be only the 1 outlet and loads will be minimal. My plan was to use a GFCI breaker which will allow me to run conduit with only 12" of cover according to Row 1, Column 4 of table 300.5 . However, it was suggested that I not use the GFCI breaker since that would put all the lighting under GFCI protection. Instead, as I understand it, the recommendation is to use a standard breaker and use a GFCI outlet for the convenience outlet. As I understand it that would put me in Row 1, Column 3 of table 300.5 and require 18" of cover over my conduit. I'm not certain that this suggestion was made with the full recognition that the lights are plug-in, not hard-wired or if that would make a difference. Obviously, less digging is better than more digging, so I'm all about needing only 12" of cover over my conduit. I'm pretty sure a GFCI receptacle is cheaper than a GFCI breaker and saving cash isn't a bad thing either. However, if there are repercussions of running the lights with GFCI protection that I'm not aware of, the extra work and money saved is worth it. Bearing in mind that the lights I'm planning on using are plug-in and are not hard-wired , the question is: What is the reason for not running the lighting in the shed off of a GFCI breaker? If the reason is simply "that's what code states" then I'll meet code. If there are preferences, concerns, and considerations but lighting on GFCI protection is allowed, I'd like to know what things I need to consider before I determine which route to take. Note, I'm looking for reasons for/against, code implications, general concerns, etc. i.e., it appears that I can spend a few extra bucks to do less digging and that would be my preference, but if there are significant concerns, I'll dig a deeper trench and throw the few bucks at the kid to have him put his back into it. <Q> Because if an appliance trips the GFCI breaker, there go the lights <S> The issue with having your whole shed on a GFCI consists of two parts: <S> some things (power tools, hot things) can pose a stored-energy hazard after shutdown for a little while tripping the GFCI breaker will plunge you into the dark as the lights will have to be on it as well <S> Being in the dark around a stored energy hazard, such as a spinning saw blade, is bad, so we don't want the lights to go out if that device malfunctions and trips the GFCI. <S> Besides, the difference between 12" and 18" burial depth isn't significant in terms of trenching costs as far as I know; if you really care that much about trench depth, you're better off using RMC and matching non-threaded fittings, as that gets you down to 6" of cover anyway. <A> In my area, a few years ago, I ran a conduit in a trench to an outbuilding and didn't get the trench quite deep enough for the inspector, so he wanted GFCI protection in the panel supplying the run. <S> I think it was about 14" deep. <S> Your situation sounds pretty simple. <S> Will this be inspected? <S> But if not, you sound as if you want to do this according to code anyway. <S> So I'd run a conduit in a little over 12" deep trench and protect it with a dual function (GFCI and AFCI) breaker in the sub-panel. <S> I doubt that would be the end of the world, but up to you. <S> If you ran single wire such as THHN or THWN it would be easy to make it into a MWBC with just one more wire. <S> You would have two outlets in the shed, one for the lighting and the other for the convenience outlet, 2 hots, a shared neutral and of course a ground. <S> The hot legs would need to be on opposite poles in the sub-panel with handle ties on the breakers. <S> hmmmm....does that work with dufi breakers? <S> Harp? <S> you know? <A> In my opinion, the GFCI Breaker offers the highest degree of safety. <S> The point of GFCI is to protect any user in areas that can become wet. <S> In the event you decide the lighting is not adequate and decide to replace the light with a droplight, anything plugged into the droplight would not be protected if the convenience outlet is the only protected supply. <S> Protecting at the source not only protects you in the shed itself, but offers protection all the way across the yard. <S> If someone in the future decides to dig a trench, put in a fence pole or drive in a Horseshoe stake for that matter without knowing there is a service below the only result would be a dead toolshed, not a resident.
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Furthermore, with the GFCI tucked inside the shed, that keeps it reasonably protected from the weather; this isn't an issue for most folks, but can be if your breaker panel is outside (say, on a meter-pole). Without running 2 circuits separating lighting from outlets, if you tripped the breaker, the light would obviously go out. You don't need separate grounding electrodes (rods) in this case at the shed.
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What is a safe way to ground this light fixture? We are putting in a new mirror and light fixture. Unfortunately the electrical box is not centred with the vanity. I am going to drill a hole in the metal backing for the light fixture (see pictures) to put the wires through, but i'm not sure about what is a safe way to ground it.The guy installing the mirror will then fix the fixture's backing onto the the mirror. can I make a new hole for the green ground screw closer to where im cutting the larger hole for the wires to go through? alternatively can I use a twist wire cap to connect both grounds together, then loop a section of the newly connected one to the ground? (the ground coming out of the wall isn't long enough to reach the current ground screw once repositioned) Sorry if it's obvious, just want to make sure I do it safelythanks for the help! Update:Thanks everyone for the replies, they were all helpful and appreciated.I installed it yesterday and it worked out great, thanks! I've added a picture with the final product. <Q> I would move that 10-32 green screw to the point the wire comes through and tie your ground there <S> but you can make a jumper in this case with a wire nut. <S> You need to protect the wires from getting cut if you can’t easily find a large enough firewall gromet , snap in gromet , snap in bushing you need some type of protection <S> I like 3/4 snap in bushings <S> the big box orange store has a bag of 3/4 acc snap ins for 2.23 a bag of 10. <A> The incoming cable’s ground wire goes to the junction box. <S> It does not go to the lamp. <S> If you want to bring a ground wire through that hole you are drilling, it either needs to pigtail off the above grounds, or go to a second ground screw hole you add to the box. <S> You can add a ground screw to a junction box by drilling a hole correct for a #10-32 tap, then tap the hole or use a self tapping screw. <S> The -32 or finer thread pitch is essential, do not use a sheet metal screw. <S> Since you are now running an additional ground wire, length to reach the OEM ground screw won’t be a problem. <S> Or, drill a couple extra holes to tie to the junction box with the normal screws <S> If you know how the light will be positioned, then drill holes that line up with the mounting screw holes on the junction box. <S> One screw will ground you. <A> Sometimes it's just easier to move the box. <S> You'll have to drill a hole large enough for a nonmetallic bushing or a romex connector. <S> Get a 2' piece of romex 14/2 with ground and splice it in the junction box. <S> Pull the romex into the fixture bracket and hook the romex to the fixture wires.
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Yes you can cut the hole but you need some protection for the wire coming through the hole I would find a large snap in gromet drill a hole to fit the gromet
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Quickest way to circulate outside air thru house? All but one major room is part of a single path through home, from a window on one end to a window on the other. In the evening I want to bring in cooler outside air as efficiently as possible. If there is no breeze outside, is it faster to close all windows except the two endpoints, setting up the box fan (which fits well in the window) to push air in or pull it out at one end. open all the windows, and put the fan somewhere, without knowing exactly what the path of airflow from it will be. The first method takes no advantage of whatever minimal passive airflow would occur with all windows open wide. The second method doesn't make as good use of the fan, because it may end up cycling the air immediately around it over and over instead of reaching all areas of the house. If passive circulation were truly nonexistent, then maximizing the fan's efficiency would be the way to go. Does it seem plausible that passive circulation could indeed be low enough for that to be the case? <Q> Moving air tends to feel cooler than still air. <S> If you can put up with the noise, the box fan trick works quite well. <S> In my experience, air movement in the home depends on air movement outdoors; if it's a still evening, even with lots of windows open, you won't get much air. <S> If you have lots of money and live in an amiable climate (cool, dry nights), buying a modern whole-house fan may be a good fit. <S> Modern units suspend the fan itself from the rafters via an insulated duct, and are much quieter than they used to be. <S> As Jimmy Fix-it commented, the best thing to do is to try both of your methods. <A> Previously I had a home with no A/C, it was in a forested area so not too bad. <S> But to cool overnight, I put 2 box fans in the living room (great room) windows, both BLOWING OUT. <S> I also blocked off parts that the fans didn't cover in the two windows. <S> Then in other rooms opened windows which allowed cooler night time air to enter the room. <S> I wouldn't use the "push - pull" method you described. <S> So the cool night time air entered other rooms (mostly bedrooms) and got expelled via the fans in the living room. <S> Worked pretty well. <S> Sometimes got a little too cold in the BR for the wife, but it worked. <S> Hope this helps. <A> If this will be long term, a whole hose attic fan is excellent, I have had them in 4 different houses. <S> Get a belt drive because the direct drives make air noise because of higher RPM ,smaller fans. <S> You can install it in any room although the instructions say to put them in a central location. <S> My present one is in a utility room in the corner of the house and works fine. <S> Open the windows more in the rooms you want the most airflow. <S> Our 24" two speed fan will make it uncomfortably windy on low speed if I only open windows in three rooms. <S> In winter , I did pull off the belt so the fan will not run and lay insulation over the louvers to slow heat loss; but now that I am older ,I don't bother. <S> Noise was only a factor in the one direct drive fan as I made the mistake of putting it in a central location which was a hallway outside bedrooms. <S> Cost was not a factor as I put them in myself and the fans are cheap. <A> Because you're renting, I'd close draperies during hottest part of day (light =heat).
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After sunset, open draperies/windows on both sides and turn on your kitchen exhaust fan in addition to the box fan, to determine if it creates a sufficient draw of cooler air into your home. It would only function in the immediate room space and probably not do much for the rest of the house. On the flip side, even a small breeze can help.
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Can I oil a push button light switch? I have a circa 1920 push-button light switch which sticks occasionally. The push buttons move fine, but sometimes the blade switch inside doesn't flip unless the button is pressed very hard. I'd hate to replace this, because this antique switch has a more solid feel than replicas I've used. Is there a safe lubricant for mains power the switches? And yes, I plan to remove the paint. :) Edit:I would take it apart to clean, but the screws have been sealed by some kind of resin. <Q> Oil, no. <S> Lubricate, yes. <S> Common oils have multiple problems for electrical devices, the worst of which is possible flammability. <S> You can get specific electrical "contact lubricant" for this though. <S> It is usually not sold in hardware stores, you may have to order it on-line and the smallest package will be a lot more than you need, but don't substitute. <S> And to those who will tell you "WD-40", that is NOT a good lubricant, despite what people think. <S> It's main purpose is as a water displacement agent, in fact that's what the "WD" stands for (Water Displacer, <S> attempt #40 is where the name came from). <S> As a lube, it only lasts a couple of weeks before it breaks down and evaporates. <S> And NEVER apply any lubricant to an energized device. <A> I would use dielectric grease, which is widely available at auto parts stores. <S> Apply to blades, contact points and pivot points with a toothpick, bamboo skewer or other applicator. <S> Work the mechanism a few times and apply a little more. <S> Power off, of course. <A> I would spray it with contact cleaner. <S> And then cycle the switch several times. <S> That should clean out any gunk interfering with the operation. <A> <A> I wouldn't. <S> Most oils are flammable. <S> Those that are not are usually toxic. <S> Substances that are used to improve contacts don't generally deal with interrupting contacts. <S> Expect soot buildup. <S> Any (organic) liquid may degrade the primitive plastic of the buttons. <S> And finally, you have a better course of action: <S> Disassemble it and see where the moving parts have worn out. <S> Some of these can be assembled with some part flipped and work 50 more years. <A> Why not just go and buy some new ones. <S> You will get the look you want and might be safer.
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Use switch cleaner spray to clean any gunk away, then use a silicon grease with a small craft paint brush.
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How to protect an outdoor electrical cable which can’t be buried? Last week we had an electrical point installed at the bottom of the garden (about 15m from the house). The cable runs alongside the property boundary. The electrician did not bury the cable as the weather was “so hot” that day and advised that the cable needs to be buried 50cm underground. Obviously I’m very annoyed, and that’s a separate story. I’ve started to dig out the trench where I can but have two questions: Can the cable be left as it is (on the ground/on the ground with a protective Hard plastic cover over it) for the section where is runs under a row of conifers? How to best protect the cable for areas where it cannot be buried (there are two trees along the boundary and so I won’t be able to dig the trench under their roots). The cable will have to come back up from their trench, over the roots, and back down). Finally, can I check I am doing the right thing by burying what I can; putting a warning tape over it; filling in the trench; putting something like wooden sleepers down that length of garden as an extra measure/reminder that there is cabling there? Many thanks <Q> Was this guy an actual licensed electrician? <S> Was there a permit pulled for this work? <S> Did the building inspector sign-off on the work? <S> Of these questions I suspect the answer is "no" to all of them! <S> Even if #1 is "yes <S> " clearly he's incompetent and/or lazy. <S> Anyway, what you have is unacceptable and the wire should be protected from the elements and from damage. <S> Simply laying it on the ground, even with some type of warning tape is not going to change that. <S> If should have a "UF" designation on it. <S> UF wire is more expensive than non-UF types and that's what concerns me regarding your "electrician". <S> He cut corners on the installation, he may have cut corners on the materials as well. <S> Also, this type of circuit (i.e. outdoor) needs to have a GFCI breaker installed. <S> Where did the hookup to existing power happen? <S> Did he run a new circuit from the panel or did he just splice into an existing circuit? <S> In my opinion a license professional electrician would NEVER do such shoddy and incomplete work. <S> Hopefully you didn't pay this clown yet. <A> In the US you could use rigid metallic conduit and only have to dig 6” but based on your cm & m measurements you are in a different location, left on the ground would not be legal in any on the countries I have worked but some have no standards. <S> I would want to protect the cable. <A> As others have said you would need to check your local codes, but here in North America if the cable is designated as "direct burial", it has to be 18" minimum under the surface, which is 46cm, so <S> I'm thinking that's what he was referring to when telling you to bury it 50cm. <S> You cannot (again, here) run it above ground around trees and such, it's underground all the way or up above ground in approved conduit, generally rigid galvanized steel if not physically protected from damage. <S> That then means junction boxes for the transitions etc. <A> Yeah, you can lay it on the ground like that, but don’t energize it!!! <S> As far as hokey-doke burying it on a “best effort” basis, you have to check the requirements of your Metric nation’s electrical code, and do what it says.
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The line needs to be buried but before doing that you need to determine if the wire used is rated for direct burial.
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Ground neutral bond screw on a PON main panel I'm installing a Plug-On-Neutral (PON) main panel. There is a screw with a label indicating that if I need to bond the ground to neutral, tighten to 40lbs. Now I know main panels generally have the ground and neutral bonded, and it appears that they all are, but I am assuming something is not. Is it the PON neutral bars specifically that are not currently bonded? Is there any reason, for a main panel install, that I would not want to tighten this screw? As a side note to someone with a higher reputation. It seems like a "Plug-On-Neutral" tag is warranted. <Q> On a main panel, you always bond the neutral and ground. <S> Just because it's a PON panel doesn't change that. <S> The reason they don't have it "factory bonded" is because sometimes they get used as a sub-panel. <S> This is becoming the case more often. <S> If the panel is covered by a separate disconnect, which is becoming required, then the main panel gets treated like a sub-panel. <A> As such it has no bearing on the question of neutral-ground bonding. <S> Main panels must be bonded; subpanels must not. <S> Also, you are not required to use the provided bonding screw, and you can run a heavy ground wire instead if you prefer to have something you can put a clamp meter around. <A> With GFCI’s being required in all garage receptacles I have used PON panels for subs it just makes sense. <S> remove the bonding screw For a sub (plug on neutral) are a bit faster to wire and our inspectors like them so inspections go quicker. <S> You can use old style breakers in a pon <S> but pon will not fit in a old style panel.
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There is no difference between plug-on neutral and regular panels; plug-on-neutral is just an alternate way to pick up the neutral instead of a pigtail.
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Getting rid of a Chalkboard Wall Around 4 years ago, we painted a chalkboard for our 1-year-old kid. She loved it and did all sorts of artwork on it. Now she is 5 years old and doesn't want the chalkboard anymore in her room. I tried to scrape it off using sandpaper and a Dremel power tool (MM 50) to powersand it. On a suggestion from a home improvement store, I painted the Killz Latex based Primer over the blackboard. I cleaned the blackboard with a wet rag dipped in Dish Detergent and water, before applying the primer. I let the primer dry overnight. Now it looks like this. I am planning to paint the entire wall with VALSPAR https://www.valspar.com/en/products/interior-paints-primers/signature-interior-paint-primer Should I do a few more coats of the primer before applying the paint? How can I hide the blackboard completely? <Q> I would give it a good sanding with 100 grit paper and then 220 grit paper. <S> I would then give it two coats of a shellac based primer <S> , it is very good at covering or hiding dark colors and stains that may otherwise bleed through other primers and paints. <S> It is a very thin product and you may think that is not hiding the black board, but just because you can still see some black does not mean that it is not providing a sealed coating. <S> I would then give it coat of a good bonding primer , these are thicker and formulated to bond well to stubborn surfaces. <S> Now you have a nice primed surface that you can paint with any type of paint you wish. <A> I don't get why this is so hard. <S> You have trim on two sides and a wall on another. <S> Cut it out and install a new piece of drywall. <S> You have only have two small seams to mud. <S> This will cost $15 and be half the time as trying to "super" prime it. <S> Long-term you try to paint over that I seriously doubt with all the paint in the world you won't see the edges show through of the old chalkboard plus trying to paint over it has to be way more time consuming (and more costly). <S> If we see this in a house we never for one second think to paint over it. <A> Patching compound (be it spackle or other) needs to be sanded thoroughly until it is properly flush with the wall surface prior to any primer or paint or other surface treatment. <S> You need to properly sand the entire area and then start anew with a "problem surface" primer (e.g. shellac, alkyd primer, latex bonding primer, etc.) <S> Also, the surface should always be rinsed with clear water as the final step prior to application of primer or paint. <S> Detergent/soap residue can interfere with adhesion.
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You did not properly prepare the wall surface prior to priming.
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What is the most affordable means of storing 3,000+ gallons (11,000+ litre) of rain water? I'd like to setup some rainwater storage, collecting water from the rainy season, so use later on the garden. The hardware stores sell water storage containers, but to store 3000 gallons (11,000 litre) would require $5000 of containers. In prehistoric times, people just built a pond-like reservoir nearby my house, but I believe the water would just evaporate. Is there a cheaper alternative for storing water? I have a 50 ft by 50 ft (15 metre by 15 metre) area of land to use. <Q> Single large tanks <S> Two such tanks were famously seen in Breaking Bad season 4, as the repository for both the magic “methylamine” they needed, and also for the (spoiler alert). <S> Figure on 8 foot (2.4 metre) <S> diameter x <S> 10 feet (3 metre) tall. <S> These tanks are absolutely enormous and come on a flat bed truck; the trucker will expect you to have a backhoe and rigging necessary to pick the tank off the back of the truck. <S> You could probably fetch one yourself, e.g. if you found a bargain on Craigslist; but to move it <S> we’re talking a big 8 foot (2.4 metre) <S> wide 2-3 axle trailer with a Reese hitch, and a big macho vehicle to pull it. <S> It’s <S> not the weight, it’s the wind resistance <S> - you don’t want your trailer or tow vehicle tossed out of control or flipped over entirely! <S> Arrays of small tanks <S> Country folk have a single “go-to” container: the “intermediate bulk container” or IBC Tote . <S> These are pallet-sized (40 x 48”, 1 × 1.2 metre) and hold usually 275 or 330 gallons (1040 or 1250 litre; note: multiples of 55-gallon / 208 litre drums). <S> They are 4-5 feet (1.2-1.5 metre) tall. <S> Now, you can buy these new if you really, really, really want to ... <S> and I’m sure factories get quite a good price on them by the trainload. <S> But the people proffering them in single quantity really stick it to ya - they’d brazenly charge $4 for a 2-liter soda-style bottle. <S> (You can get ‘em full of soda for $2). <S> On the other hand, they’re usually single-use containers, especially food-grade ones, so industry winds up with a whole lot of ‘em. <S> Now, some clever people on Craigslist will clean them out for you and sell them to you for $35 to $75, but your best bet is call around to industry and service providers, and see who has way too many of them and will let you have em for nothin’. <S> I recently had a need for one, and a friend immediately offered me one from his workplace’s overstock, and driving through the local sawmill <S> I saw another 30 or 40 piled up. <A> In large parts of the world this is routinely done with underground concrete cisterns. <S> Odds are that's the common way because it works effectively and for the long run, though I'm sure plastic tank suppliers would prefer you buy a plastic tank. <S> Given that a 3000 gallon (11000 litre) <S> plastic tank is still going to require major equipment to install, the benefit of the tank being lighter is quite limited. <S> What your local installed cost is <S> and/or any use limitations (such as load limits on top of a plastic tank that may be much lower than on top of a concrete tank) would be one factor - the odds of a leak and/or length of guarantee on the tank not leaking might be another consideration. <S> I recall my precast concrete septic tank at around half this capacity as being remarkably affordable, delivered to the hole. <A> As people have mentioned, in other parts of the world, and on farms, rainwater is often collected in cisterns. <S> And they are not always dug in pits, or underground. <S> If you are collecting from a roof top, you can use containers along side the building, or in a separate silo like building. <S> This has the advantage of not having to pump the water up for use. <S> I just googled "rainwater cistern system" and found this commercial site which shows a variety of examples of plastic, fiberglass, and metal tanks including some with supporting or protective structures. <S> Examples of cistern systems <A> In France we can get soft water cisterns. <S> I don’t know if they’re available in the US. <S> They look like this: <S> This one holds 2600 US gallons (2200 imperial gallons, 10000 litres). <A> Ponds are a significant modification to a property. <S> The water will percolate into surrounding soils, evaporate from the surface, and attract pests like mosquitoes to the stagnant water. <S> If you were going to try to establish one, a simple plastic liner isn't all it takes. <S> Perhaps if you have clay and silty soils <S> you could just keep filling it with water until it created a sufficient barrier but this will take time and land planning. <S> If your have structures anywhere near this then forget about it. <S> I would see if you can find a deal on plastic septic tanks. <S> Bury one, drop a pump into it, and reuse the water. <S> None of the risks if the pond and no loss of land use. <A> Dig out a 20'x20'x15" (6m × 6 <S> m × 4dm) <S> deep area and line it with a single plastic liner. <S> That will give you 500 cu ft (14.4 m³). <S> 3000 US gallons = <S> 401 cu ft = 11.4 m³. <S> You would have enough room for an extra 748 US gallons (2830 litre). <A> In the American Southwest, where the law often forbids watering of any kind due to drought, some people have large plastic cisterns capturing rainfall from the roof. <S> I don't know how much they cost <S> but they work well and hold lots of water. <S> Someone mentioned them earlier and with a link. <S> Aside from looking industrial and possibly clashing with your home decor, this is a good option. <S> I'd say the ones I've seen are 6-8 feet (1.8–2.4 metre) in diameter and tall enough to fit beneath the gutters on the roof on either side.
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I've seen silo like cisterns used by residences in the Caribbean islands. They sell plastic water tanks in the $1000 range for 3000 gallons (11000 litre).
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Is it safe for plumbing to use rainwater to flush toilets? A couple of articles encourage the use of rainwater to flush toilets. ( article 1 , article 2 ) However, would it be safe to do so if the rainwater in your particular area has a pH that is considered as acidic or akaline?(The risks of which are outlined on this page and reproduced below) <Q> It is doubtful the pH+ of rainwater anywhere, other than directly downwind of an erupting volcano, would be unsafe in terms of damaging plumbing fixtures or pipes. <S> That said, there is concern in how the rainwater is stored. <S> It must be kept so as not to be a breeding place for mosquitoes, toxic algae or other noxious critters, nor should the container cause entrapment of wildlife. <S> There also must be air breaks to ensure that the untreated rainwater does not enter and contaminate potable water. <S> There may be local regulations regarding use of rainwater or "greywater". <A> Yes, you can do this, but you must make sure that the supplies to the wc are separated from the rest of the supplies to the taps, showers etc. <S> We planned this in the plumbing for our house so that we could easily separate the washing machine and 3 wc from the other items <S> - plumber was not happy <S> but we got what we wanted. <S> That meant we only needed a simple filter from the rain water tank as it never gets into the potable system. <A> Rainwater is regularly captured and used by rural domestic properties here in New Zealand for everything in a typical household - from drinking to flushing toilets, with minimal treatment. <S> Its pretty much the norm for people in rural locations (if you are a few miles outside a built up area, you wont have mains water or sewerage) - capture rainfall runoff and store it in large tanks for use in the home. <S> The alternative is drilling a borehole (expensive and not always possible) or regular water deliveries (again, expensive). <S> Pretty much the only treatments the water goes under is to kill microbes and filter large detritus. <A> What can a rainwater contain? <S> Something that was either in the air or on the roof. <S> Acids: sulfuric or nitric, coming from the air pollution. <S> If the air is more or less safe to breath, water raining from it is acceptable for the purpouse intended in regard to the acidic content. <S> Steel pipes may suffer some corrosion, but they are rarely used today. <S> Plastic pipes are OK. <S> Bases: the only more or less gaseous base is ammonia. <S> See about acids. <S> Corrosion is less likely. <S> You will pretty much know if there is unsafe level of ammonia in the air. <S> Dust: it may be dominated by soil, soot, tyre flakes or something else. <S> May settle at the bottom of the container. <S> Easy to filter out. <S> Microbes, tree leaves, bird feces and feathers, insects and other organic life-related things. <S> Not always easy to filter out. <S> May make water unsafe or unpleasant to drink. <S> May clog something as well. <S> The toilet will be still happy to flush with it. <S> Life may try to develop in the container. <S> In order to prevent it, filter the input as much as practical, keep the container dark and covered. <S> UV lamp may also help, but may as well damage a plastic container. <S> All things considered, go for it. <A> Even fresh water from a lake, river, or stream can suffice, with its entrapped microorganisms and impurities. <S> Ocean-going vessels utilize seawater for numerous functions, including firefighting and the supply plumbing of the urinals and toilets. <S> This necessitates the use of stainless steel piping and fixtures for the toilets, but enables the use of the "free" water source that they float upon. <S> (Granted, they may not be "flush" toilets onboard a ship, but the analogy is otherwise valid.) <S> For residential-grade installations, water quality will affect the looks and longevity of your piping and fixtures. <S> If you are willing to use collected rainwater, then you can expect to suffer some additional costs of maintenance, filtration, storage, and possibly pumping that your neighbors wouldn't incur. <S> Your tank and bowl might grow algae or become discolored without extra cleaning. <S> An addition of copper to the holding tank or within your piping would help mitigate the algae. <S> Even still, none of these factors affect the safety of the toilet: it will still work and not harm you. <A> Yes, using rainwater can be a great way to preserve water from potable and drinkable sources. <S> However, I do agree that some contents could cause for problems if they are present both for restrictions, erosion, and etc.
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Virtually any water is safe for toilet water use as long as it has, at minimum, a "sand filter" of sufficient size to keep out sand and particulates.
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What would be the cleanest way to wire a wyze security camera from a light switch in a staircase? I am planning to install a wyze security camera at the top of a staircase. There is a light switch right there I can draw from. Was thinking about wiring a romex from the light switch to the ceiling. But then how do I plug to the camera ? External outlet ?What is a clean solution so that people cannot see all the connection if they look up ?Thanks! <Q> This is good. <S> However, it looks like the switch is a 4 way switch (though I always though 3 way switches were used at the top of the stairs). <S> This is less good -- there's no consistent hot leg on it. <S> You can verify both of these with a multimeter. <S> So I don't think this box is going to help you much, as you need to have constant power and neutral to power an outlet. <A> If you want a Wyze cam there, and there's no power (won't be from just a light switch), you could get the new Wyze outdoor cam that's battery powered. <A> I used an Edison bulb light socket adapter (one example here: https://www.leviton.com/en/products/1403-i ), and simply plugged the camera in below the bulb. <S> Total cost was quite low, and required zero wiring.
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The wire was neatly attached to the wall with u-clips, and the excess was coiled around the camera. (Obviously won't help if you absolutely, simply must use an existing wired Wyze cam.) It looks like the white wire may be a neutral.
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what should I use to cover a table made out of a broken bookcase? I'm working with a friend who is trying to make a kitchen table (i.e to use for eating) from a bookcase which broke.We're trying to do it as low-budget as possible (he's in a lot of debt right now). The bookcase is made up of a type of WPC . Each piece is about 2cm thick. It has a very thin plastic or vinyl cover on the top, bottom and the exposed side of the shelf (the one you would see when looking at the shelves in the bookcase). The other three sides of the shelves- the parts that would be against the bookcase when the shelf was in place- have no cover at all. For this project, we're basically planning on attaching 4 shelves to form a rectangle, via a couple of wooden slats underneath these shelves. Then we'll attach a couple of legs underneath it to prop it up. (The goal here is cheap and functional, not aesthetic!) The question we have is what we should do to cover the top of the table to seal it. As mentioned, there are 4 shelves next to each other which means there are cracks between each one. And some of the surfaces in the cracks don't even have a vinyl covering, so if anything spills it will get absorbed into the WPC. And frankly, we want to seal the cracks so nothing gets caught there anyway- it's a recipe for microbes. We're debating getting a thin sheet of thick plastic to put down on top and attach. But if we drill the plastic in, we now have holes around the screws where things could seep in. Someone recommended that we attach the thick plastic by first applying a layer of silicon to the table. Someone else said to skip the plastic and just apply silicon. A third person said to just apply shellac - not silicon- to the whole thing, but a fourth person said the shellac will drip through the cracks and won't be thick enough to seal the cracks. We're getting quite confused by these possibilities. We don't have experience with any of these, nor do we have any of the above on hand to try out. We'll obviously buy what we need to use, but we're trying to keep this as low cost as possible. What's the best (cheapest, easiest, effective) way to seal the table top to make it useable as a kitchen table, disregarding aesthetics? <Q> Your most "microbe resistant" option would be what you already thought of: a thin plastic sheet. <S> Just glue it down with contact cement, rather than drilling and screwing, if you are worried about the screw holes (I would not be so worried about the screw holes myself...) <A> Not seeing or knowing the length of the shelves you are using, I would not use slats to assemble the top. <S> It would be another expense saved. <S> I would use a cross layer of selves for that if there were enough of them and the table was small enough, since this material sags readily under its' own weight. <S> It will make the table heavier, but it is not like it needs to be moved everyday. <S> Screwing 2 layers together and keeping the table small will allow the table top to work over time and not fail with light use. <S> I would suggest not using this table for anything other than eating, not a work space. <S> The extra thickness will allow better grab for screws used for holding the legs in place. <S> After it is assembled, protect the top with the plastic like you suggest. <S> It does not need to be a full bed of adhesive, just dabs maybe 8" <S> apart, closer works too but a continuous line around the perimeter. <S> Pre-fit the top before applying the adhesive. <S> Press the top layer in place and clean the edges with cleaner for the adhesive after the adhesive squeezes out. <S> There are many good brands of water based adhesive out there that will allow you to do this. <S> If any finer tunig of the edge is needed, a file can be carefully used to get rid of any edges that may get hung on clothing or other things. <A> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Contact_paper A type of adhesive plastic sheet <S> But if you're really desperate for cash just seal the joins with packing tapeand replace the tape as needed. <A> If you're thinking of buying plastic sheets and silicone and or shellac, just save the money and buy a sheet of plywood then cover it with a table cloth. <S> The plywood will provide stability as well as prevent liquids leaking through the slats to the floor, etc.
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A thin coat of sealant will provide at least as much waterproofing as any other wooden table has.
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Wood fence posts in clay I'm installing a wooden fence around my back yard using prebuilt cedar panels and 10 ft (3+ m) 4x4 pressure treated posts buried 3 1/2 to 4ft (1+ m) deep. The posts are packed in with pea gravel to allow for drainage. Most of the post holes I've dug go through 2 ft (60 cm) or so of hard clay before hitting a softer sandy soil. On one corner of the lot however, the hard clay continues down the full 4 ft. I placed a few feet of water in a hole to try to loosen the soil for digging (which helped greatly), but after 48 hrs the water level had only gone down a few inches. What can I do to get these post holes to drain properly? <Q> Your other option is to fit a short concrete post, and bolt the wooden post to it. <S> It's more expensive, but the concrete won't rot when the hole fills with water. <S> Around here they're often called a 'grandfather' <S> but apparently the official name is a ' repair spur ' <A> I have heavy clay that won’t drain. <S> I dipped the end of my pressure treated posts in liquid asphalt (roofing material) and let them dry before cementing them in. <S> 20 years, and they are still in pretty good shape. <A> Dig them deeper, perhaps 6ft or even 8 and fill up to level with the pea gravel. <S> That should provide sufficient volume to drain the water from the posts. <S> However there may be other water seeping in. <S> The bottom hole is capped and then a waterproofing / preservative is injected through the side hole. <S> Retreat annually or as needed. <A> An old claim staking trick is to first dig the hole to the depth you want. <S> Put the post (claim corner) in the hole. <S> Pack 1 inch (large) gravel only in the hole. <S> Wiggle the post to pack the gravel around the post. <S> The pebbles wedge between each other, the post, and the side of the hole. <S> Work the gravel into the hole until the post stops wiggling. <S> Works as well a concrete. <A> An option I hadn't originally mentioned would be to trench the length of the post holes and add a drain. <S> Trenching the length of the fenceline would have been a lot of work and likely destroyed a handful of productive fruit trees. <S> After conversing with my neighbor it turns out he has a drain pipe 6 inches (15 cm) into his property line used for his rain gutters which drains to the municipal storm drain and happens to be buried 3 1/2 feet (1+ m). <S> I was able to access and drill into his drain pipe (with permission) with only a little extra digging. <S> The posts don't quite go as far down as I had planned <S> but I think this is the best solution. <S> I will be accepting Anthony Stevens's answer because it is what I would have tried if this option did not become available. <S> I added this answer in case someone else runs into a similar problem where trenching is an option.
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One solution I saw was to drill into the post from the bottom and meet that centre hole with a small hole from one face.
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New concrete up to blacktop's soft edge I want to make a concrete walkway next to a blacktop driveway. This is on private property, and the total length of the walkway will be about 20 feet. I don’t want a curb, and I want the concrete to be at the same level as the blacktop for ease of snow-plowing. Trouble is, the edge of the blacktop is not square; it’s a soft curve that fades into the ground (see above). If I dig out the soil next to the blacktop, put down a bed of gravel and pour concrete right up to the blacktop, the concrete will have a feather edge onto the blacktop which will soon flake off, leaving an ugly furrow. How should I deal with this? My first thought is to take my worm-drive circular saw with a 7-1/4” abrasive blade for masonry and cut a square edge on the blacktop as deep as the blade will go. (I don’t have a pavement cutter.) I’ll finish the joint between the blacktop and concrete with a concrete edging tool. Is there a better / easier way to make the transition from the soft edge of the blacktop to the concrete without renting a pavement cutter? <Q> I have used a segmented blade to cut asphalt with a worm drive skill saw. <S> this was a long time back <S> I don’t remember if it was carbide , diamond or possibly flame sprayed <S> (I don’t know what that coating is).when the blade got hot <S> it smoked and I did not realize until later was filling the guard with hot tar <S> , the blade had no problem making a similar length cut maybe a few feet longer <S> but when my saw cooled down it was basically ruined, the tar became solid and froze my guard in place <S> I did try for a few hours to heat and clean it <S> but no matter how good it looked when it cooled the guard froze up. <S> I ended up pulling the motor and tossing the guard. <S> I have wiped out a few saws over my years and this one I did not even think would be so nasty. <S> Just an FYI I might be inclined to purchase a garage sale special for a job like this it can do the job <S> but I would not risk a good worm drive again. <A> You could set up a form for your concrete as normal for concrete work. <S> Set it a few inches from the edge of your asphalt <S> so you have room to un-form after the concrete is set. <A> I would pour the concrete to a nice square edge, then depending on the radius of that edge, I wouldn't worry about it at all. <S> If it's 1/4-1/2" radius, who cares. <S> If it's 1-2" radius fill in the asphalt side with a sealer or patching to make a flush surface. <S> If it's somewhere in between, make a judgement once the concrete has set up. <S> Depending on what you're using for snow plowing, even 1-2" might not be an issue. <S> If you can live with it, you're done, if you can't, fill it.
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Once the concrete is set you could back fill the space between the concrete and the asphalt with asphalt patch and tamp it down.
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Do drywall cracks pose any risk for further damage? I recently discovered a fairly long (~2 foot) crack in my drywall within my home. Aside from the aesthetics, is there any negatives associated with leaving a drywall crack alone for an extended period of time? Of course I will eventually fix it up, but does delaying this fix pose any risk for further damage? Edit: The property is basically brand new. It is a condo that was constructed in 2019. The crack (image attached) is about 2-3 feet long. From top to bottom, it starts off jagged like a normal drywall crack but then suddenly becomes very straight near the window frame. The area right at this crack-type transition is raised off the wall. Don't know the exact dimension of the raise, but it is obvious in sight if you are close and very obvious running your finger over it. I do not know what would be in the wall here since it is a perimeter wall. <Q> Assuming your unit is similar to those outside your window. <S> The crack is worthy to keep an eye on. <S> If there is a beam in that bulkhead, there could be a shoddy load support in the wall under it or in the floor below. <S> Is the lower floor(basement)finished?Depends on where you are located, structural defects such as that crack indicates is typically covered under the new home warranty. <S> Structural engineers or Building science engineers will have the expertise to identify if there is reason to escalate the issue. <A> Cracks that are straight are very common as a result of mud shrinkage or maybe some drywall fasteners weren't properly countersinked(?)... <S> countersunk(?) <S> ... so cracks occur at the drywall seams. <S> That would be a superficial blemish and nothing to worry about. <S> This doesn't look to be the case to me here. <S> Based on the diagonal nature of the crack leads me to believe its cause indicates the building is settling. <S> That being said, it doesn't rule out that there could be something more serious going on as @user68368 <S> noted in their answer. <S> I would suggest keeping an eye on in to see if the gaps change in size or if the raised surfaces get any worse. <S> There's usually a 1 year warranty in new home construction, but I don't know what the typical warranty for a condo is. <S> I would also suggest if it's still under warranty to let them do any repairs so not to risk voiding the warranty for that particular problem. <A> Cracks like that are very common near the edges of windows and doors, since those spots often have the perfect conditions for it. <S> Drywall is weakened for much the same reason, and there are often vertical seams near the edges of the opening. <S> All of that, combined with the natural shifting and settling of the structure over time, makes this a very common issue. <S> Definitely keep an eye on it, but don't get too worried. <S> By themselves this kind of crack does not indicate any deeper problem. <S> Next time you are in someone else's home, take a look around the doors and windows and you will probably see a few with similar drywall cracks. <S> You are just more likely to notice it when it happens in your own home.
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These are also pretty common fractures and usually nothing to be too concerned with. You have a hole in the framing that will never be quite as strong as unbroken studs, and lots of vibration. It wouldn't hurt to call the builder to get their input if you really wanted to ease your mind.
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Can pressure treated wood be buried in concrete? I was planning a relatively simple, 6x8ft "2-post" pavilion, just a small structure to provide protection to a small bench. This design would require to bury the wood into the concrete several feet. Is it OK to bury wood in concrete this way? How to avoid getting water in it so it does not rot? Or is there an alternative that is considered better? <Q> "Pressure treated wood" isn't one thing. <S> It's many things. <S> Some is rated for ground contact or below grade use. <S> Most isn't. <S> You'd need lumber that is. <S> You won't keep it from getting wet underground, but you can keep it from being constantly saturated by giving the concrete sleeve a drain at the bottom. <S> One strategy is to set the post on gravel and just pour the concrete around the post, not under it. <S> This only works if the surrounding soil drains well also, though. <A> The deck was very solid and done to my perfection. <S> 20 years later when I was selling that home, the treated 4X4's that were the uprights were soft and seemed rotted about 1/2" into the wood. <S> I was told by a home builder that was because the wood posts were in contact with the concrete surrounding those posts. <S> I was told that burying the treated wood in the concrete made the deck extremely strong but that the softening of the wood, just above the concrete was the draw back. <S> He also said that the posts would have to be replaced when the softening of the wood was compromised enough to weaken the posts. <S> He did not specify when that would happen but said that it would probably happen in 50 or 60 years. <S> (just a guess) <A> The biggest problem with that approach is that the slightest lateral movement of the post is going to crack the concrete. <S> It’s just too much leverage against a brittle substance. <S> Since you are bothering with a hole and concrete, I would suggest using anchors. <S> Pretty easy, just fill the hole and insert the anchor. <S> Let it fully set and build. <S> This keeps the wood out of the wet.
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In my last house, I built a very large deck and all the uprights were installed in concrete that were buried 3' minimum into the soil below.
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Why do I have two doorbell transformers? I'm trying to debug why one of my doorbells isn't working, but to keep things simple, today I'm just trying to understand the reasoning and implications of what I see at the electrical box. Background: The house has two doorbells; one original location (1967) and one added with an expansion (1980s?). When I moved into the house in 2019 I installed a Ring Doorbell Pro at the Expansion door; it worked; I was happy. The other doorbell does not work, although there is electricity in the wires at the doorbell (wires spark / read 12-20V with a multimeter). Looking at the electrical box I see two transformers attached to the side. They appear to be wired in parallel? The silver transformer is marked 16V and the other isn't clear. There is only one wire pair (red/white) leaving the transformers and going off into the house. (Click for larger version) So my questions are as follows: What is the effect of this wiring setup? Higher current? Why would two doorbell transformers be wired together like this? Cheaper than buying a bigger one when the expansion was added? <Q> But not by much, likely done because that is what someone had available. <A> You mention serial transformers in the title and parallel in the text so we'll cover both. <S> Transformers of the same type in series would double the voltage but have the same current. <S> Those same transformers in parallel would have the same voltage but double the current. <S> You could find either scenario in doorbell situations, although not the best way to do it. <S> Your two are more than likely wired in parallel due to the one transformer being 16 Volts and your multimeter readings being 12 to 20 volts. <S> You'd be better off taking your reading at each transformer after isolating each one to get more accuracy as <S> 12 to 20 V is a big difference. <S> This would also insure each transformer is working. <S> Then you could better determine series or parallel. <S> Whoever did this tried to save a buck, and didn't get the proper size for the chimes they purchased or had a voltage drop problem. <A> Ok if this were DC the answers would be correct but this is ac and <S> even 1 wind difference creates a phase imbalance, <S> since they happen to be on the same side it is not a direct short but this is the wrong thing to do with an AC transformers. <S> It is both dangerous and not energy efficient. <S> The proper thing would be to get a new transformer That is properly rated. <S> Adding the 2 kva values will be more than is needed at the same voltage. <S> This is bad and if your home burned this may be cited as a possible cause if the fire started in this area.
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Yes, adding a second transformer to make higher current available would be cheaper than buying a bigger transformer.
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approximate strength of poured reinforced concrete slab We would like to back a truck over a garage floor recently poured. The slab is 6 inches thick with 1/2 inch rebar in a 2 foot grid throughout. The concrete is a 6.5 sack mix and has cured 60 days. The garage floor has no walls erected. Our intent is to pour a walk around three sides of the slab and they are only about 40 percent reachable to pour from the truck without using a wheel borrow to place the concrete. The concrete company estimates their loaded truck will weigh about 37,000 pounds. Two sets of dual wheels in rear and one set of single wheels in the front. Any suggestions will be appreciated. The concrete is poured over a soil surface compacted to 95 percent minimum compaction. No voids, no rock. <Q> The slab you’re driving on is a slab on grade that does not rely on reinforcing to span voids. <S> If, as you say, the ground is compacted to 95%, (which is about the most aggregates can be compacted,) then the load will be transferred to the ground without the slab bending. <S> With 6 1/2 sack concrete, it’s compressive strength is probably between 4,000 psi and 5,000 psi depending on the amount of water, aggregate, etc. <S> Therefore, one square foot of concrete will support between 576,000 lbs. <S> (4,000 x 12 x 12) and 720,000 lbs. <S> (5,000 x 12” <S> x 12”). <S> Therefore, one square foot of concrete is substantially less than the area of 8 or 10 tires from the concrete truck. <S> Note <S> : Don’t let the truck “bump up” onto the edge of the slab... <S> it’ll crack the edge. <S> If possible let it bump up on timbers and have timbers along the edge of the slab and on the slab for the first 12” or so. <S> This will allow the weight to distribute out into the slab. <A> This is a tough one I have seen full trucks break curbs. <S> At 1/2 truck your slab should be thick enough and has cured long enough was definitely mixed strong enough at 6.5/ yard <S> it should hold the weight but make sure the truck is not full as I have seen both curbs and driveways crumble under a full truck’s <S> weight but <S> those pours were lower strength pours 3 bag in most cases. <A> Doing a proper check is too complicated for this site. <S> The slab will attempt to distribute the wheel loads across an area of soil. <S> If the soil is soft, the slab will have to bend more in order to distribute the load over a larger area, and it is more likely to crack. <S> And you haven't given us enough information to even estimate the stiffness of strength of the soil. <S> (The compaction ratio doesn't tell us anything about the type of soil or its quality.)
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An alternative approach could be to cover the slab with a thick layer of gravel to protect it from the local effects of the wheel loads. If you want a reliable answer, you should hire an engineer to do the calculations.
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Installing tiles on bare floor after removing kitchen cabinet We had to remove a kitchen cabinet to free space for a dishwasher, and now the visible floor is bare. I have few tiles that I would like to install on that area, but I have no idea what steps I should follow to do it the right way. it is an old kitchen, 40 years old, I can see wood floor then another layer of wood then a layer of vinyl. I'm looking for a fast fix for that area since our plan to renovate the whole kitchen in a couple of years. Appreciate your help! <Q> Based on the picture and what you described, you have tile set over vinyl sheet flooring that was put down over 1/4 in plywood used as underlayment, and the gray stuff underneath <S> is the old floor boards. <S> I'm assuming you want to tile this because it's no longer going to have something sitting on it <S> and you just want it to match for the next few years until you renovate the whole floor. <S> The easiest quickest thing to do would be to fill the gap in the thin plywood underlayment with more plywood, either same thickness or a little thicker to make up for thickness of vinyl, then set tile over that adhering it with thinset directly to that plywood. <S> If you don't put down plywood, you'll need to have the thinset a good deal thicker which means a) more thinset to buy+mix+handle, b) sloppy deep mess of thinset to work with and level tiles in, c) maybe over thickness spec for the thinset. <S> Also you'll be adhering directly to the floor boards and that's not great because a) <S> you'll probably ruin those boards and will have to replace them if you do anything else with the floor later and <S> b) they're almost certainly not a good substrate for tile because they flex from load and environmental changes. <S> Quarter inch plywood over floor boards is still not great, that tile is likely to crack either when you set something heavy on it, when the seasons change, or just from walking around in the kitchen. <S> But as a temp fix, you can put down more plywood to make the hole less deep and protect the floorboards, set tile on it with thinset, and grout it. <S> You can try to knock out the cut tiles like Jack said if you want to make it more continuous. <S> For more info on setting tile, invest a few bucks in this book from amazon and check out the John Bridge forums. <A> I would be cleaning up that square, get rid of the wood and cut the edges straight down to the floor. <S> Then mix up your thinset and set your tiles. <S> I'm assuming you don't have the exact type of tiles so place the new ones in to your liking and then grout. <S> If you do have the same type of tiles, then chip out the old cut tiles and add the new ones to match the old pattern, then grout. <A> While I'm no contractor, I've done my own tile for years, and helped quite a few friends tear out old and install new - and this looks an awful lot like a lot of the "tear out" jobs. <S> You have essentially three options: <S> The cheap option. <S> Fill in the hole with plywood, thick enough to generally match the linoleum, and apply thinset directly onto the plywood. <S> It's not good for the wood, and it won't last long, either; I expect it to start cracking the grout within the first year unless the floor doesn't flex much. <S> But, that's the cheapest and easiest option, if you need it done right now . <S> Trying to put new tile on something as flexible as linoleum on thin plywood like that is maybe not the worst way to install tile, but it's pretty close. <S> Fill in the hole with cement board, chisel out the cut pieces of tile, and cut out the linolem, replacing it with tile underlayment membrane. <S> Thinset and tile on that. <S> I would expect the tile to last maybe 5 years before either the tile cracks or the grout chips out. <S> This is a good middle option, and would probably be ok, as long as you're willing to patch up the grout every few years or so. <S> It'll last longer than the rest of the tile, at any rate. <S> Tear out the tile, wall to wall. <S> Rip out the linoleum. <S> Depending on how bad of shape the first layer of plywood is, you might want to rip it out, too. <S> Then, put in a layer of cement board (which will provide stiffness for the tile), put down a layer of tile underlayment membrane, then thinset and tile. <S> This method will last the longest and look the best once you're done, but cost more than the other two... on their own. <S> This is the only way to guarantee the tile doesn't look like a patch job, but like that spot was part of the floor all along. <S> It also waterproofs the whole floor, which is a nice plus. <S> If you have the money for it, this is the best long-term option. <A> Never tile on top of vinyl as it will hold the water if floorboards will need 9mm ply wood the tile <S> when do your kitchen next time tile all will save lot of hassle and be easier
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Ideally, you'd make sure the structure underneath that floor is sufficiently strong so the floor doesn't flex, tare up the whole floor down to the floor boards, put down proper thickness of plywood, maybe some kind of waterproof membrane if you want a waterproof floor, then tile the whole thing wall to wall.
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Installing smart switches in 2-gang box with switch loop We have two dimmer switches in a finished basement room. Switch 1 controls wall lights, and Switch 2 controls overhead lights. We are hoping to replace them with smart switches that require a neutral. It looks as if Switch 2 is wired using a switch loop. (The white wire connected to Switch 2 is wrapped in black electrical wire, to indicate that it is being used for that purpose.) From what I understand, the switch loop is an obstacle to using a smart switch, because the neutral wire is being repurposed. What I'm wondering is whether it's possible to rewire (ideally without having to run new wire) to take advantage of the fact that there is a true neutral that is accessible within the box from the cables that are connected to Switch 1. <Q> Can’t do it. <S> There’s a “Great Wall of China” between the left switch (and its cables) and the right switch. <S> You cannot cross that with any wire, except safety ground . <S> What you might be able to do is reverse flow. <S> Depending on load factors, you might be able to flipper-oonie (that’s a technical term) <S> the right-side lamp circuit <S> so it isn’t powered at the lamp anymore. <S> Cap off that supply at the lamp. <S> Then flip this former “switch loop” <S> so it is not a switch loop and powers the light in the normal way. <S> By “load factors” <S> I mean you’re now throwing all of that light’s current onto the left circuit. <S> If it’s a large light, that could be a provisioning issue. <A> If that's the case there's no way to reconfigure connections and maintain switching at switch 2 without adding a conductor. <A> If you had more space than a light switch box would provide has you could use a relay to separate the smart switch from the circuit powering the light. <S> Then the configuration would be, bottom cable powers <S> the switch <S> and it outputs a switched live. <S> That switched live and neutral from the bottom cable go to the coil of the relay. <S> The switch loop cable is connected to the common and normally open contacts of the relay.
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It does seem like the center top cable in your diagram supplies the light fixture, and that the cable at switch 2 is a loop. If you don't mind adding a decently large electrical box you can still do it. It’s a Code violation, it’s a safety hazard to workmen working on the left circuit... and what’s more, if there are any GFCIs or AFCIs in either circuit, it will trip them.
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Trace live wire without an outlet I have an old-school intercom installed in the house that I am in the process of disconnecting. When I remove the master unit from the wall, I found 120v mains coming in directly to a transformer behind the unit, with absolutely no separation between the HV and the LV side (and all the wires to the various head units). Given that I'm pulling the system out, I don't mind, as ultimately I'm going to put the 120v wire into a junction box and add a doorbell transformer into the cavity left by the master unit. I'm having a hard time locating the breaker though. It isn't the light or outlet breakers that are near by in the kitchen, and it's un-labeled. There are a lot of breakers, so ideally I'd like to avoid going one-by-one. There is a 60-htz hum coming from it and my non-contact voltage detector confirms it is hot. Is there an easier way to determine which breaker it's on than just trial-and-error for all of them? If there was an outlet, I'd use a tracer to find the breaker. But given this just goes into a pair of wire nuts and then the transformer, I don't want to touch it while live... <Q> Trial and error flipping breaker handles isn't so bad especially if you have an assistant or can attach something that makes noise (a fan, a radio, etc) so that you can hear at a distance when you find the correct breaker. <S> Some of us might have been known to wire 120 v devices while the circuit is live. <S> Were a person to attempt this, it might be most safely accomplished if the receptacle is prepared with some "pig tails" (wire leads 6 inches long or so), wrapped in electrical tape to insulate the bare terminals, and then the pig tails could be attached to the live 120 v leads with wire nuts. <S> If the old-school intercom is still at least somewhat functional you might be able to set it up in a way that it makes noise. <S> Some had a built-in AM/FM radio, or an audio input jack, or maybe you can just turn up its volume and listen for the background crackly static sound to go quiet while you're going through the breakers. <A> I would purchase a circuit tracer if you don’t want to flip breakers. <S> A quick internet search brought up sperry cs61200p for 39.15$This kind of tracer is handy to have you connect to a live circuit and scan over the breakers the strongest signal is the right breaker. <S> I have some cheap ones similar to this For residential and high dollar ones <S> +800 <S> $ <S> that don’t need power to be on <S> but I do this for a living. <S> The less expensive ones work when you have it turn the breaker off and the signal disappears that is your double check for safety. <A> Minimal fuss to other circuits <S> : Shut down the stuff that would be offended by a power outage. <S> Shut off the main breaker, Disconnect transformer and wire in a receptacle <S> Turn on the main breaker, plug in & trace. <S> Turn on the stuff that would be offended by a power outage. <A> You need a very noisy device that can run off the LV side of the transformer, or a suitable LV lamp and a long wire. <S> Since it's LV you can connect something with practically no risk. <S> The idea of course is that you need to hear it or see it while at the service panel, so you can tell when you've cut the power to the transformer.
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While of course I couldn't recommend that a person should do such a reckless thing.. if a person did choose to wear gloves and work carefully, it wouldn't be impossible to attach a receptacle to those bare wire ends so that the plug-in tracer could be used (or a plug-in noise maker, for that matter). Honestly it's the quickest thing you could do.
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Why would the neutral current be significantly greater than phase current? I am in India. The typical domestic supply here is 240v @ 50Hz 1phase. The utility company recently replaced the old analog wheel type meter with a modern electronic meter capable of providing several readouts. Amongst these are Ip and In , which I assume are the phase current and neutral current, respectively. I was under the impression current flowing out of the neutral is equal to the current drawn in by the device on the phase. Yet the readouts differ by fair numbers as much as 200% as far as my attempts to test go; could be more if I try with other devices powered. Why would the neutral current be significantly greater than phase current? <Q> On a single-phase, Euro-style connection, neutral and line must be equal - if they were not, your RCD would trip, because looking for unequal line and neutral is how it detects ground faults . <S> If neutral is larger than line, then my only guess is one or more of your neighbors has a broken neutral wire, and their neutral is returning via their neutral-earth bond, their earthing rods, the earth, to your earthing rod via your N-E bond, to your neutral. <S> We see that in the US from time to time. <S> Check with the power company, and make sure you’re not paying for that . <S> If they bill you for Line current only, that’s fine, but if their bill is based on the average of L and N, then you’re buying your neighbors’ power. <A> Neutral currents should not be more than the phase currents. <S> They could be in some individual household circuits if you've got some multi wired branch circuits on the same phase, if you even utilize them. <S> I would verify with the power company what In and Ip actually are and what the units of measurement are. <S> The smart meters I'm familiar with do not measure neutral currents. <A> If all loads are line to neutral then the maximum neutral would be equal to the phase, however when using split phase 120v to ground or 240 leg to leg any devices that do not use a neutral would have no neutral currents. <S> So your maximum neutral current will always be equal or less than the addition of the legs.
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The neutral should be equal to or less than the phase currents.
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