source
stringlengths 620
29.3k
| target
stringlengths 12
1.24k
|
|---|---|
Feet on the middle of the pedals I am 1,85m tall, have shoes sized 58-59 (European) and have classic non sloped frame with seat tube 55cm. Problem is that my feet land with their middle on the pedals, not with the front part where the toes are. I will try to move seat more to the back, but other than that, is it possible to look for different geometry on the frame, or are almost all frames the same in that respect? <Q> If I understand the problem correctly, it sounds like you're sitting too far forward on this bike. <S> Whether you're too tall for your frame or not is difficult to diagnose without at least pictures, but you might consider that this bike is simply too small for you. <S> (If you're having trouble getting the handlebars far enough forward, that's a sign that this could be the case.) <S> Are you able to get the saddle high enough <S> so your knees are locked with the heel of your foot on the pedal? <S> You might also consider simply moving your saddle back on the rails. <S> That might give you a little more room. <S> I'd also repeat Wadelp's suggestion - toe clips will help you keep your feet correctly positioned on the pedals. <A> Clipless pedals - like Shimano SPD or Crank Bros Egg Beaters - work great too, but they do require special shoes with cleats on them. <A> Ideally, the ball of your feet (the part just below the toes), should be on the pedal to transfer power to the pedals (efficiently and bio-mechanically healthy). <S> This is also likely causing your knees to "flare" away from the frame (like a V). <S> You'll want to keep your knee, toes and hip on the same vertical plane. <S> otherwise long term could lead to knee ligament problems. <S> It looks like the bike is too small for you. <S> see <S> http://bicycling.about.com/od/howtoride/a/bike_sizing.htm <S> and http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer/road-bike/size-sheet?utf8=%E2%9C%93&u=in&r=man&h=1879.6&i=863.6&b=Calculate <A> You may want to try this online fit computer . <S> It does require several measurements, but the results are generally pretty good. <S> Regarding changing the geometry, you can sometimes make a small bike work, but it will never be as good as a properly-sized bike. <S> I know someone who rides a too-small Colnago because he's so attached to it. <S> He has a 120mm stem (maybe longer, can't recall), and his seat is as far back as possible. <S> He's around 1.83m tall, and his bike is a 54 or 55 (can't recall). <S> He was commuting on the bike, around 200 miles (322 km)/week. <S> But just because it works for him doesn't mean it will work for you. <S> It depends on your geometry, too. <S> Long legs, short arms would be worse on a too-small bike than short legs, long arms on the same bike, because you need a certain amount of leg extension to pedal efficiently. <A> Try an offset seat post , that will help get your seat back a little further. <S> Other than that, sure, a different seat tube angle would change the spatial relationship between your rear and your feet. <S> But that angle doesn't change too much between the various road bike frames. <S> Perhaps shortening the effective top-tube length (forcing you more upright) might help the feeling - you can get a shorter stem, or different handlebars. <S> It begs the question - why do you care where your feet hit? <S> If the current scenario is comfortable, then why change it? <S> Unicyclists (mountain at least) ride with the pedal just in front of their heel. <S> Given your shoe size (58-59), I can imagine your feet are hitting the front wheel when you turn sharply - so <S> maybe that's the reason... <S> On some bikes I have that problem, and I wear only 48. <S> More drastic changes could be switching seat types, like a banana seat (yes, you might look silly). <S> Or switching bicycle styles, say to a recumbent. <S> But, really, if the change doesn't "feel" right, have you tried it for an extended period of time? <S> I'm thinking a couple hours (cumulative) - to get past the initial reaction. <S> Maybe you've just been riding mid-foot so long it will take a while to change what feels comfortable. <A> What type of pedal are you using? <S> You're a relatively tall guy for a 55 cm bike. <S> You're almost my height, I think you would be much more comfortable on a frame that's closer to 59 cm.
|
You could always add some toe clips to your pedals they will keep your feet positioned on the pedals better. At 185cm, I would think a 58-62cm frame is better suited depending on your leg length.
|
Buy a new cycle or assemble new parts? My budget is $300 - $400. I live in India. My doubt is whether, its better buying a new bike or just assemble different good company spare parts (used or new). I am very new to cycling, so please help... <Q> Don't know about India, but assembling from parts in my end of the world costs a lot more than a new bike. <S> I know of many instances where people buy a "donor" bike for good new parts at a reasonable price. <S> If you can get parts at the right price, it may be worth it, but problems with compatibility between components can lead to a lot of blood, sweat and tears, as well as expense, especially for a beginner. <S> It seems every year has at least one small but significant change that is incompatible with last years model.... <S> Something as simple as seat posts - <S> One post recently someone counted 39 different sizes <S> -size increments are 0.1mm - measuring the hole that accurately is not possible for most of us. <S> I don't know about India. <S> but where I live you can get great secondhand bikes for good prices, if you do homework and take care. <S> My 14 year old neighbor just got a "new condition" second hand bike for $850 - <S> a new one with equivalent components would have been $2.5K. <S> The previous owner was obviously a fanatic on maintenance and all of the important bits look anything more than a few 100km old. <S> It's not risk free, but its the best way to ride a better bike than you would otherwise be able to. <S> The other option is end of season and last years bikes - often 1/2 retail price just because the color changed. <S> This is a good way to get into a new bike cheaply. <A> Second, you say you are very new to cycling. <S> If you did go out and buy parts, how confident are you that (a) you'd be buying the correct parts, (b) you'd have the tools to fit them properly, and (c) you'd have the know-how to fit them properly? <S> I don't mean to be at all derogatory to you when I say the last bit, I'm just pointing out that some of the work will be very challenging to a novice. <S> Third, I don't know the Indian market, or really what type of bike you're looking for, but your budget doesn't seem that huge. <S> As a third alternative, have you considered second hand? <S> Of course there is an associated risk with this (buying a piece of crap, buying something stolen, etc.) <S> but I'm sure with some research you could reduce these risks. <S> You may even find shops which specifically sell used bikes (and therefore anything you buy will come with some kind of warranty). <S> Shops like this exist in England although I don't think many main dealers bother with second-hand nowadays...too much competition from eBay. <A> New Cycle or assemble new parts??this is absolutely different and both of them have an advantage. <S> New Cycleyou just choose one and pay. <S> you can't choose part one by one and buying new cycle is more than cheap. <S> Assemble new partsYou will have a satisfy your self. <S> you can choose anything you like and this is absolutely expensive. <S> because you buying one by one of cycle.so i have some advice if you have really like cycle choose s
|
First, my own experience is that the cost of the new bike is generally a lot less than if you bought the parts separately.
|
Is it safe to ride with bent fork? My bicycle went from this when I bought it: To this when I crashed (note the front fork bent where it attaches to the stem; front wheel almost touches the down tube): Update: Just looked at the frame and saw cracks in the paint on top tube and down tube . <Q> besides the structural issues, looks like this crash has changed your bike geometry rake , head angle, tail, and wheel base. <S> This will likely result in much more sensitivity to handlebar input. <S> As others noted, the clearance from the down-tube is also cause for caution. <S> otherwise, it doesn't seem likely that the steel bike would disintegrate as you're riding. <S> good luck <A> Well, that second image is a little too small to see what the bike's condition is, but I knew a guy back in the 70s (a fairly avid biker) who bent his fork rear-ending a parked car. <S> (Yeah, he was a bit sheepish about that.) <S> The fork was bent back to where the tire just barely cleared the down tube. <S> He rode it like that for at least 4-5 months, probably doing 200 or more miles a week. <S> (Note: <S> This was a steel bike -- if that wasn't obvious from the date.) <S> Clearly, handling will be affected -- that's for you to assess. <S> And I wouldn't trust a bent fork with aluminum or composite components. <A> Good LBS can straighten steel fork, but it would be a good idea to replace it when you can. <S> But in your picture top tube also seems to be bent. <S> If that is true than the frame has also been compromised which is much more serious problem. <A> I had a 80's 10 speed with a similarly bent fork. <S> It was also akimbo to the right, but not so much <S> you could see it with your eyes. <S> Handling was... interesting. <S> It rode okay but hit any sort of a bump and the bike wanted to turn right into the traffic lane (we ride on the left.) <S> I only figured out the fork was misaligned when for some reason I held the front wheel nearest the downtube and the downtube in one hand, forcing them to be in-line. <S> The front of the wheel was visibly pointing to the right by a couple of degrees. <S> Once we'd noticed that, other evidence was noticed. <S> The bike's two tyre tracks were side-by-side when riding straight ahead.... <S> the back tyre followed about half an inch to the left of the front tyre's track. <S> I'd seen paint cracking and frame rust about 1 inch astern of the head tube, on both the top tube and down tube. <S> Once I dismounted the fork, the internal part of that showed a subtle bend as well. <S> I fixed it using brute force, some pipes for leverage, and a stout bench vise. <S> Testing was done on a flat concrete patio using rulers to measure the height of the fork crown from the flat concrete, and a length of string to measure from the fork crown "shoulder" to the opposite-side dropout. <S> After reassembly, the bike was much better to ride, and I got a peak speed of 48 km/h.
|
The steel fork can likely be bent back, provided that there are no frame fractures and wheel damage (hard to imagine the wheel being perfect with forks bent). If you can, I would advise against riding the bike, particularly on low traction surface since a small jerk can put it a handle-bar lock and you into an endo.
|
Tips on buying a beginner mountain bike I hope this question isn't too subjective or open-ended, but I would like to know what I should look out for when buying a beginner mountain bike. My aim is to ride off-road and downhill tracks, but I don't know what type of bike I should be looking at. Should I look at a hardtail or do I get a second hand full suspension bike? Are there specific brands that I should look out for or stay clear of? Any other tips that you might have would also be greatly appreciated. EDIT As per the comment below I am adding some more details. The trails that I am looking at is more the foresty type single tracks. The way I am going to get to the top will be to take a back-route that is more open view. For all intensive purposes the forest scenario will be ridden the majority of the time, but I will surely do open view rides as well. EDIT 2 With the current exchange rate as it is I would say that my budget is roughly in the $1000 range. <Q> Focusing on a specific brand will only make it easier for you to choose but don't, for one second, believe that you've found a better brand than others. <S> I suggest visiting a couple of LBSes (local bike shops) to get more info and test ride a couple of bikes (even in the parking lot). <S> Pay attention to sizing. <S> This is something that your LBS will help you with. <S> If you need a bike for getting stronger and having a bit of safe fun then <S> any $1000 26 inch XC hardtail with 100mm front travel will do the job. <S> The bike will take you anywhere and will last for decades. <S> If you feel that at some point you'll want to get more aggressive then you'll need a more aggressive hardtail with slacker head angle and around 140mm of front travel. <A> If it helps, I bought my first mtb last Easter and did not look beyond the Boardman range . <S> Can you get these in SA? <S> They regularly win awards from (UK) magazines and are known primarily for being great value for money. <S> I've been very impressed with mine, although I should qualify that by adding that I soon decided that I preferred tarmac, so it doesn't get anywhere near as much exercise as my road bikes. <S> As regards the features you want, can I suggest you work out first <S> how much you want to spend? <S> Once you've got an idea, you'll find that steers you naturally toward a spec. <S> There's a definite relationship going on between price and things like frame composition, suspension options etc. <S> I suggest to get some idea of this you pick a single manufacturer and look at how the bikes' specs vary as you go up and down the range. <S> Even if you can't get/don't want a Boardman, the link above will give you some idea. <S> This was basically how I approached the purchase of my first "serious" bike (which was a road bike): I knew I was a total novice, and I knew that there were a zillion choices out there <S> , so I went for a Trek because, basically, if that's the brand that Lance rode then they must be decent. <S> And the actual model was purely down to budget. <A> I'm quite pleased with my 2012 Jamis Durango bike, I think it would fall into the $1000 range from the UK price I paid for it. <S> It's a hardtail, if that puts you off, but I personally feel I prefer that to the full-suspension bikes I've tried (admittedly cheaper, made of steel, heavier and crappier).
|
At your level all brands are equal and you can find a suitable bike for yourself in almost all brands.
|
Are frame changes needed to switch groupset from Shimano to Campagnolo? I want change the groupset on my Scott Addict R2 from Shimano to Campagnolo. Is Campagnolo fully compatible or will I need to make frame changes? <Q> I don't think you will need to change the frame, I looked at one of the bianchi series a while back <S> and I saw the same frame (the Oltre - <S> I can but dream) offered at different prices depending on the groupset. <S> But the groupsets available were from both shimano and campag. <S> There's variations with Dura Ace, Ultegra, Athena, Super Record etc. <S> I can't imagine the actual frame would be different between these groupsets, otherwise surely it would have a different name? <S> Here's the link to that page: <S> http://www.bianchi.com/Uk/Bikes/Bikes_List.aspx?RangeIDMaster=74825&CategoryIDMaster=74829 <S> You may want to visit the Scott site, you may find something similar <S> However I can imagine you're going to have to change just about everything else, though, including wheels (well, as far as the freehub at least). <A> No. <S> There are no frame changes required. <S> However, even then I'm sure there'd be a workaround. <A> You'd have to change the rear wheel or have it rebuilt on a campy hub (the shimano hub is not compatible with campy cogs), and of course all the components. <A> There are no compatibility issue at all. <S> For the most part, Campagnolo, SRAM and Shimano have designed their groupsets to work to common frame characteristics. <S> Drillings for electronic might be an issue in that Campagnolo EPS has until recently and still in the case of Chorus) needed an extra drilling for the Power Unit charge port, but that is a hurdle that any competent fitting technician should be able to clear. <S> Campagnolo make adapters for all of the current formats of BB with the exceptions of BB Rite in PowerTorque only (they do it in UltraTorque) and Specialized OSBB, neither of which is not a problem that applies here. <S> Shimano use third party solutions - they don't offer any in-house compatibility with anything other tha BSC or Italian threded BBs. <A> As your Scott is a modern bike, I'd be inclined to agree with some of the other answers here and say that I don't think you will require any modifications to your frame if you switch from Shimano to Campagnolo. <S> There are some areas which are not strictly frame related where you may need to be careful. <S> If you're switching to an EPS groupset then it's likely that your frame won't have specific mounts or routing for the electronic cabling. <S> However, in my experience you've often got options to run the cables externally quite neatly. <S> One area I have run into that's worth checking, is that if you intend to use an 11t sprocket at the rear with a compact chainset (or triple) that there is sufficient practical space between the chain and the chainstay. <S> You should be mindful of the bottom bracket setup on the R2 and make sure that any new Campagnolo system is compatible with it, or that you have a relevant converter if required. <S> Again, not a problem for the R2, but if your frame was setup for longer reach brake calipers, I'd also suggest that you measure the existing ones before you order, to ensure that the new ones have sufficient depth. <S> If in doubt or if you want extra reassurance, I'd check in with your local Scott dealer to get their confirmation, they may also be able to offer advice on subtle changes they make when setting up for Campagnolo which will make your transition smoother.
|
As already mentioned, you will need to either change your wheels (or the freehub body if possible on your current set) so that they can take a Campagnolo specific cassette. That said, nothing should need to be changed on the frame itself. The only time I could imagine this would be required is if you are looking at the electronic groupos, and frames that have specific battery mounts for one particular groupo. If your frame was much older, I'd also suggest that you check the spacing between the dropouts to ensure there was sufficient room. The same goes for the front mech, make sure your new one is the same (band or braze on) as the existing Shimano one.
|
Is riding shirtless safe? During the summer, I like to go for rides on trails without a shirt. Is this safe? Also, related: is it rude to other people on the trail not to wear a shirt? <Q> Safe is a relative term in this instance. <S> A shirt might protect you in a fall, but only just. <S> You'll know immediately whether a shirt can protect your skin from sticks, branches, and prickers dangling into the trail. <S> If you were going fast enough flying insects may even make an impact, though I can't imagine it'd be terribly painful. <S> Shirts do offer some protection from two things: sunburns (and subsequent skin cancer) and bites from insects (potentially carrying disease.) <S> For lightly complexioned people, skin cancer is a huge danger and can develop even without having been sunburned. <S> Insect-borne diseases are also a big deal in most places. <S> Having been treated for Lyme disease, I can attest to the importance of wearing insect repellent and, yes, shirts. <S> Additionally, that thin layer of material actually keeps you cooler by blocking the sun from reaching your skin - this is the same reason why desert dwelling peoples wear lightweight material all over their bodies. <S> Having a shirt on also keeps you from sweating all over your bike and other gear. <S> In terms of etiquette: if you're out in the woods and there aren't many people around, go for it. <S> If you're bumping elbows with people on a multi-use trail, maybe consider some modesty. <A> Safety <S> If you fall off, I can't see how a shirt would protect you. <S> It might reduce grazes slightly, but it's negligible. <S> A shirt may protect you from sunlight and risks of sunburn and skin cancer, although, unless it states UV protection, most shirts let some sunlight through. <S> Depending on where/when you ride, you may be more at risk of insect bites or simply getting them stuck in your sweat - nice! <S> Rudeness <S> Bit of a personal opinion on whether it's rude. <S> Personally I'm not bothered at all. <S> I'm more offended by dry creaky chains. <S> I think legally (in the UK, at least), it legal for anyone to show their bare chest in public, regardless of gender. <A> A typical shirt or bike jersey has no security benefits. <S> One might even argue that a shirt might reduce security as it might be caucght by a tree or somethingWhether iit is "rude" depends on your local environment. <S> In some areas it's absolutely accetable, in others not. <A> You'd have little to no protection against scrapes on trees or bushes close to the trail. <A> A sleeveless cycling jersey offers no protection to the arms and might save a scratch or two in a light tumble. <S> It might save some gravel rash on the body. <S> It does offer protection against sunburn - but sunscreen the upper arms! <S> But for a shorter ride or say doing intervals on a warm day I find riding shirtless feels great so take the risk
|
A shirt will give some protection from the sun, bugs/insects, and those who share the trail feel being shirtless is best saved for the beach or pool. Depending on the terrain some special protectors might make sense when thining about security.
|
How can I ride a bike having severe spinal disease and pain? I am 27 years old and bound to a power chair due to severe back pain and spinal disease. I have had multiple surgeries and will soon have more. I would like to be active but I know that is nearly impossible due to me being bound to a power chair and the inability to walk except for around the house without a cane. Is there a way or a special bicycle that is made that I can ride a bike??? Please help! I'm dying to get out more without my chair! <Q> I would think some sort of a tricycle would be the best choice for you, probably a recumbent. <S> Something like this is the first thing that comes to mind: <S> You lay in a reclined position and pedal with your feet in front of you. <S> These come in several variants, from fully reclined (such as the above) to more upright. <S> There are also numerous variations of the hand-powered cycle, and some that are operated with both hands and feet such as this one: <S> Some of these are "stock", while others are fairly highly customized "one-off" bikes. <S> (But several versions of the basic tricycle recumbent are available "off the shelf" at relatively reasonable prices.) <S> I never seen any of these bike styles with an auxiliary motor, but I'm sure there are some. <S> Several battery-assist systems are available for standard bikes and could be easily adapted to a recumbent. <S> A full-power gasoline engine would be a bit more complicated. <A> You may want to ask your question here . <S> It's a fairly active forum. <S> There are so many options, such as this and the cycles you see here . <A> I've ridden with a guy who was riding one of these <S> and he was flying. <A> There's a few different kinds of bikes you could try. <S> A charity called Wheels for Wellbeing in London has a list of some of them on their website, including trikes, recumbents, and handcycles (as suggested by other people here), the Veloplus (a bit like a trike that you can use to also carry a wheelchair(!)), and side-by-side tandems if you'd like to ride with somebody else. <S> http://www.wheelsforwellbeing.org.uk/?page_id=74 <A> I have no personal knowledge but have heard of the Courage Center. <S> It is an organization that helps people with varied challenges with rehab and fitness issues. <S> A German company called Stricker makes a bicycle type attachment that connect to a standard wheel chair, unfortunately their website doesn't translate all of it into english.
|
There is always the hand crank option.
|
Does rear-shock placement affect suspension characteristics? I know that suspension type(Horst-link, Four-bar etc.) affects how a full-suspension mountain bike handles, but you can often see these same types of suspension systems used with different shock placement. Some have a shock that sits under the top tube, while others have the shock mounted at the bottom of the seat tube. Does this placement affect the suspension characteristics as well, or is the shock just placed where it is for convenience? And if it does affect the suspension, what kind of characteristics does the different placements give? As you can see on the pictures, both bikes have a Horst-link, but the shock placement is different. <Q> Yeah, the main issue is the geometry that determines the arc the wheel follows as it responds to upward force on the tire. <S> Subtle changes in pivot points can affect that significantly. <S> Beyond that the spring force and damping force that the shock applies at each point in the wheel arc is obviously also important. <S> And differences in shock placement are one way that a manufacturer would "tune" this. <S> And of course "coolness" and novelty of appearance are major criteria for the frame builder. <S> One critical factor that isn't visible in those photos is the precise location of the pivot at the front of the chain stays. <S> That probably affects "bob" more than any other factor. <A> Basically, there are two abstract design parameters for a suspension system: trajectory of rear axle, and dynamic behavior (reaction force, damping) along this path. <S> Both of these parameters are simultaneously determined by the kynematic chain composed by the passive links AND the shock. <S> From single-pivot, suspension systems have evolved to 4-bar linkages (with wheel attached to one of the rocker bars), and more recently Virtual-Pivot-Point (VPP, where the whole rear triangle makes the coupler bar, allowing for potentially more elaborate trajectories). <S> Also, shocks have evolved from more simple and pre-set systems, to more non-linear, adaptive and multidimensionally adjustable systems. <S> Some have up to five independent adjustments, as far as I know (Manitou Fifth Element, now discontinued). <S> I don't think it's possible to categorize the bike's behaviour by linkage type alone, since the same topological configuration can be parameterized in almost infinite ways, and also the shock response has a definitive role in overall behaviour. <S> On the other hand, bikes designed for certain purposes tend to have similar designs across manufacturers. <S> From the photos you posted, I'd say the first one intended to have a shorter travel, with a lighter shock intended for relatively lightweight applications, and the second one most probably has a larger travel, a more robust and rigid shock, and is intended for heavier use, but maybe it's not like this, I'm not really sure. <S> Hope this helps! <A> The two bikes you posted have probably got different: geometry (chainstay length, bb height, top tube length, head tube angle etc) shock, shock characteristics and shock tuning leverage ratio pivot placement and design <S> All the above factors play heavy role in the performance and feeling of the bike. <S> Placement per se (assume on two completely same bikes) should only affect the weight distribution.
|
There is also, of course, the physical stiffness and durability of the shock mounting scheme, and the simple fact that some schemes facilitate a good frame design better than others.
|
Can I store my mountain bike + suspension hanging from the front wheel for the winter (in an unheated garage)? Switched over to my winter bike to keep my favorite away from the salt. Can I hang my bike by the front wheel for the winter? Will be in my unheated storage-room/garage/shed. My ownly real concern is the suspension. I have a Rockshox XC 32 shock. Edit: The average daily low in January should be about -15 C (5 F) the record low was -40 C (-40 F). <Q> Apart from the suspension: do you have hydraulic disc brakes?Some of them have an open design that is prone to let air in the system if the bike isn't stored upright. <A> The product page , <S> manual and warranty do not mention anything about this. <S> I think there should be no problem with storing the bike vertically or upside down. <S> When you bring your bike to the ground you'll probably need to cycle the suspension 10 to 20 times in order to make the oil go down and re-lubricate everything. <A> My main concern in hanging by the front wheel is the rim. <S> Rims / spokes are not made for a permanent force in this direction. <S> Depending on other parameters like the weight of the bike and the rim / spoke type, I would consider hanging the bike by the frame instead of the front wheel. <A> Dual Shocks like Revo hold positive and negative Air pressure. <S> It doesn't matter how you store it. <S> There is far more pressure on the valves if you sit on it. <S> Shocks are designed to withstand crazy forces. <S> But it a good idea to wait a couple of minutes after turning it the right way <S> so the oil can go back. <S> There is not much oil in it anyway.
|
Regarding the possibility of stress on the suspension, there will not be any problem, unless of course you hang yourself from the bike being upside down :) The oil will definitely stagnate at the top of the fork, on the seals.
|
How many fingers on the brake lever? I have seen people stop with one finger, two fingers or the whole hands on the levers. Is there a recommended number of fingers on the brake levers when stopping/anticipating an emergency stop? Do brake types or riding style (DH, road ..) affect this number? <Q> For downhill and all forms of trail riding (freeride, enduro, all mountain etc) <S> the prefered way is 1 finger (index) on each lever . <S> Anything else can be dangerous. <S> If the brakes are not powerful enough for dealing with this <S> then they either need fix or replacement to proper brakes for this type of riding. <S> This also helps the finger pull the lever from its most powerful spot. <A> I look at it the other way - what's the required number of fingers to maintain a hold of the handle bars. <S> On a sealed road it's close to 0, leaving 4 for braking. <S> In a serious rough/rocky track, it might take four, leaving none for the brakes (along with praying it smooths out soon). <S> Lose the handle bar, you lose brakes and steerage - there's only one way that ends, and you are a passenger. <S> Going too fast with steerage - there is more than one possible outcome, which you have a degree of control over the outcome, and can usually minimize the damage. <S> Off road, I typically use my outer fingers first - pinky + 1 is the minimum for useful braking, never more than pinky + 2. <A> In general the fewer fingers on the brake lever the better, as it means more fingers can keep you holding on. <S> However in the real world, it depends on your grip strength and how powerful your brakes are, for how many fingers you can stop with. <A> On both road and mountain bikes I tend to keep 1 finger ready to brake when I don't think I'm going to need to stop quickly, mostly for feathering my brakes to slow. <S> When I think there is a more immediate need, such as going down a steep incline on road or technical singletrack section off-road, then I tend to use 2 fingers. <S> This tends to be my default. <S> Sometimes, I'll use 3 for an emergency stop if I'm surprised, but most of the time 2 seems to be better for that as well. <S> Some brakes may be easier to pull than others depending on the style and how well they are tuned. <S> Hydraulic disc brakes tend to be the easiest and require less effort (so I use one finger more often). <S> You could just flip the whole gang the bird and use Middle finger braking . <A> Throwing in some anecdotal stuff. <S> I had been fine riding XC with two fingers in the lever (middle+index) <S> but when I began riding DH, I often experienced grip loss of hand / forearm fatigue. <S> Somehow I discovered that I was way more comfortable using just the middle finger on the brakes. <S> It seems to be that my index fingers are much better gripping the handlebars than actuating the lever. <S> I supposed that lever placement had a role, so I moved the levers towards the stem <S> so I could actuate them with my index finger. <S> The result: I was able to apply the brakes fairly well, but my fatigue problems worsened. <S> I reverted the setup to actuate the lever with the middle finger. <S> May be just my case, but it happens to be that my middle finger is just stronger applying the brakes. <S> This leaves me with 3 finger in the handlebar: pinky, annular and index, which provides me with enough grip for DH riding. <S> Now I use this technique even in XC or commuting. <S> Results more relaxed to me, less fatigue at the end of a ride or practice session. <S> So, conclusion after the long fairy tale: <S> * <S> *Try different positions at least for a ride or two, the perfect hand grip for you may not be in book! <S> ** <A> Under normal riding situations on paved roads, I always reach for the brake levers with at least two fingers. <S> Just in case you hit a bump and a finger is "jarred" off of the lever, or a finger just slips off of the lever because of sweating, you still have one finger left on the brake lever to exert some braking force to a wheel. <S> Of course, each individual usually will seek whatever feels most comfortable to them. <S> Keeping control is the main thing. <S> I still use my two fingers for the safety aspect, but "feather" the brakes using one dominant finger. <A> Professional racers use either 1-finger technique or 2-fingers technique for braking. <S> The 2-fingers technique is more efficient for hard braking and is useful only for racing or riding at high speeds (>200 km/h) while 1-finger braking is smoother and more precise and is useful for normal riding. <S> Furthermore, owner's manual for most bikes advice to squeeze the brake, not grab it and thus instructs to use one or 2 fingers for braking instead of 3 or 4. <S> Experienced riders know that on a bike, you should squeeze the front brake gradually so that some pressure will push the front wheel onto the ground, thus making a larger contact surface, thus allowing you to squeeze harder without risking the front wheel to block (the front wheel keeps the bike up while it is spinning, so blocking it will make the bike fall in about 1 second)
|
On a downhill, you should only need really "light" pressure on the brakes to stay under control. Also, riders position the levers closer to the stem (leaving 1 to 2 inches space between the grip and lever clamp) in order to enforce that only 1 finger can go on the lever.
|
DIY computational fluid dynamics for aerodynamics? Has anyone experimented with using consumer 3D software to do CFD -like aerodynamics simulations? Specifically, I was thinking: Setup the bike on a trainer (with rider) Take a series photos, and plug them photos->3D model software (something like AgiSoft PhotoScan or such as any of these free applications ) This would hopefully give you a reasonable 3D model of the bike. Would likely require some cleanup, and possibly modelling of smaller elements if they are relevant (like spokes/chain) Bring the model into a 3D package with a fluid solver (e.g SideFX's Houdini ) Simulate fluid (air) flowing around the bike model Somehow extract useful numbers, measurements or possible position-adjustments from the simulation With my limited knowledge of Houdini, I manage to make something kind of interesting looking, using it's fluid-solver's velocity visualiser: What use could all this be? For example, could this method be used to: see the impact various riding positions have on the flow of air (although I guess this is slightly hard to verify without a wind-tunnel) you could theoretically estimate CdA by seeing how much the object is pushed by the fluid. This could be verified relatively easily with a power-meter, e.g with the Chung Method Could there be any worthwhile insights gained from this? Could it be any more effective than the more elegant method of using a power-meter? <Q> I think you could take this technique pretty far, but probably not all the way (at least usefully). <S> I see a lot of use for the first part of your plan: taking multiple pictures and reconstructing a 3D model. <S> If you try this for multiple postures I think it should be possible to determine an optimal position for you on your bike based on just looking at the 2D area you take up perpendicular to your riding direction (through the cutout method described in the article about the chung method you linked). <S> But this is where the use stops I fear. <S> Some more insight might be gained by looking at the flow of air around your 3D model in something such as the fluid solver you link, but the accuracy is going to be too low to discern between different postures. <S> When you go for that level of detail small things such as the ripples in your shirt or even the fabric of your shirt can have an impact, and the errors you made in the 3D reconstruction will be far larger than the differences you can make by slightly improving your posture on the bike even more than you did in the first step. <S> Apart from this, I think that a fluid solver for movie effects is optimized for visuals first, not for scientific accuracy, so I'd be suspicious of any result it produces. <A> Has anyone experimented with using consumer 3D software to do CFD-like aerodynamics simulations? <S> - <S> Yes <S> Could there be any worthwhile insights gained from this? <S> Yes <S> However, you should not view work like this as an alternative to using a powermeter or windtunnel testing. <S> View it as a tool that can be used as an extension of sound methodical testing, to test variations that may not be possible or very difficult to test. <S> There are so many pitfalls that scientists in the field consider it a natural part of their best practices to at least partially back up CFD results with windtunnel tests whenever possible. <S> If you are interestid in this type of work, I recommend the Sports And Building Aerodynamics MOOC on Coursera. <S> Short of getting heavily involved in all of this, it is worth noting that frontal area plays a much larger role than shape of an object. <S> As noted in the other answer, using image analysis to minimize your frontal area will likely have a much larger effort-to-reward ratio. <A> The Stac Zero <S> Virtual Wind Tunnel has been developed and released since this question was originally asked. <S> I saw an analysis on someone who has tested in both wind tunnels and on velodromes. <S> The analysis I saw was in the right ballpark but a little different -- different enough that I suspect it would have had difficulty with things like skinsuits and shoe covers and other "small" differences. <S> The analysis I saw seemed like it would be able to pick up changes in head or shoulder or arm position though I can't be sure. <S> I think it had promise, not as a final arbiter between small things but possibly as a first cut to winnow through lots of alternatives down to a handful that you'd want to do further, careful, testing on.
|
If you want to try the full fluid mechanics simulation thing you would have to use a 3D scanner or some other very accurate method to produce the 3D models of you on your bike, and then I'd still try and find an actual scientific fluid solver.
|
Front Derailleur Not Working I recently bought a new bike off of BikesDirect. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/windsor/wellington2_IX.htm However, no matter what I do, I can't seem to get the front derailleur to do anything. The bike came in on the smallest cog, and no matter what I do, I can't shift it to even the middle one. I've tried changing the tension, changing the limit screws, etc. but I can't get it to move the chain. The derailleur itself moves when I shift, but it doesn't seem to move enough. It doesn't even come close to getting to the largest cog. I've watched countless videos and I'm out of ideas, so I was hoping if anyone could give me any suggestions. Also, I find it weird that for my rear gears, whenever I shift either using the lever or the thumb button, it takes me one gear up or down depending on what I press. But for the front derailleur, the lever can shift it one at a time but the thumb button always shifts it all the way back to the smallest cog not going through the middle (and is very stiff). I was wondering if this was normal? The bike is brand new so I don't think it has any mud or dirt stuck inside, and I've tried my best to align the derailleur cage parallel to the chain and the derailleur slightly above the largest cog. Thanks for any help. <Q> Have you looked at the instructions for the derailleur ? <S> If not, it might help. <S> If the bike is a recent purchase, have you contacted BD ? <S> I'm not sure they will be able to help (how recent is a "recent purchase?"), but you have nothing to lose. <S> Your other alternative would be to go with the bike to a local bike shop, and let them repair it. <S> It won't be free, in all likelihood, but you'll get results. <A> It sounds like the height of the front derailleur may be too low. <S> It may not be picking the chain up high enough to get onto the large chainring. <S> The derailleur itself would need to be loosened on the seat tube and raised slightly. <S> Also make sure the front derailleur is parallel with the chain. <S> Here is a link that shows good photos of the front derailleur adjustment process, and how to measure the clearance needed to get onto the larger chainring. <S> Hope this may help you. <S> http://www.wikihow.com/Adjust-a-Front-Bicycle-Derailleur <A> If it's very stiff to shift I recommend lubricating it with some grease. <S> If using the gear cable does cause the dérailleur to move but not enough to shift the gears it's most likely a case of 'wrong tension', either too much or not enough. <S> Take the appropriate hex key and free the gear cable to the front then 'shift' the front gears down to the lowest gear (if you have a road bike with drop bar compliant shifters, this will most probably be the little 'button' to the right of the shifter, on the left side of the handlebar) <S> now manually push the dérailleur over hand (the big hunk of metal on a spring which the chain feeds through) so that it is lined up above the smallest cog on the front gears holding the dérailleur in position, tighten up the gear cable again.
|
You need about three millimeters of clearance above the big chainring when the derailleur is trying to bring the chain over and lift it onto the large chain ring.
|
Fixed-gear bike: How to ride backwards? I have flipped over my hub to try out the fixed wheel for a change, I am finding it very difficult to keep balanced while attempting to ride backwards! Does anyone have some advice or is there any trick to learning how to go backwards? <Q> Bicycles are designed in a way that makes them very stable going forward, at the cost of being unbelievably unstable while riding backwards. <S> As a comparison, BMX is a modality where riders usually ride backwards in half-pipes, but the bike geometry is very different. <S> What I tried to do (before giving up), and what I have seen people doing, is to try to ride backwards IN CIRCLES, perhaps lowering the saddle a bit to a more relaxed position. <S> I don't think the clipless or toestraps are key here, but a lower gear ratio might be very helpful. <S> After you perform some circle attempts, you can try to switch sides. <S> I could manage to go some 4 meters back when I was trying often, but with almost no control over the direction the bike was going. <S> Perhaps a good video to start (with interesting links on the sidebar) is this: Hope this helps! <A> From my experiences with going backwards(fakie) on BMX, the best way to learn is to find a small bank or quarter pipe, ride up it, and come back down backwards. <S> This will give you that initial speed so you don't fall over right away. <S> I imagine it'd be kind of similar on a fixed gear, expect that you can actually gain more speed by pedaling backwards. <S> I think the roll out would be similar. <A> Flip it back to non-fixed and get the hang of rolling backwards (perhaps down a gentle slope) first. <S> As others have said, the bike is designed for going forwards, so backwards is a real skill. <S> So you've got two major problems - steering and locomotion. <S> Do you drive? <S> Almost all non-4x4 vehicles are front-wheel steered and reversing any distance in a straight line is similarly tricky. <S> If you've driven a rear-wheel steered vehicle, perhaps a tractor or a forked lift, you'll know that they can be really maneuverable in tight spaces but quite tricky to keep in a straight line when going forwards. <S> It is though all about practice. <S> 10000 hours to be world class! <S> Once you can roll backwards unpowered, then try the rolling backwards with the fixed, you'll at least have conquered the steering problem, now you can mix in the locomotion. <A> Get some clipless pedals. <S> Then, practice until you feel like you've been practicing all day, then practice some more.
|
Trying to do it very slow aids to gain inside as to which movement you actually have to do, since this movement is very counterintuitive: when you are leaning SLIGHTLY to one side, you have to point the handlebar the opposite way, so that the bike will go under you again. The most common fixed-gear geometry (inspired in track racing) doesn't help a lot. Continue to practice until you're successful.
|
How to inflate a tire with a Presta valve? My new bike has these thin tires with a type of valve I haven't usedbefore. I searched online and found out it's called a Presta valve , and it's pretty common and popular. I'm finding it annoying and fiddly and don't know how to use it properly. I have a floor pump, and I know the valves and pump are fine, because the guy in the shop had no trouble using the same one. But after reading online and watching YouTube videos I still can't figure out how to do it properly! Here's what I'm trying: Rotate wheel so that the pump can comfortably reach the valve (guides online say the valve should be at 12 o'clock position, but I can't do that because the hose on the pump isn't long enough) Remove valve cap, unscrew thingy in valve, and tap it a little - a jet of air shoots out. OK. Push pump onto valve. This is where I get into trouble... I can't seem to get the attachment onto the valve in the right way. I'm pushing it on with the elbow lever thingy down, and then pulling the lever up as you can see in the pictures, to make the attachment grip onto the valve. Now, either it flops around loose and leaks air out the sides (when I push it on gently), or sometimes it goes on but then the tire doesn't seem to inflate any, the pump just gets stiff really quickly as if the valve was blocked - then I remove the attachment and it goes pffffft like all the pressure was just backed up in the hose and not actually going into the tire. I was able to pump up the tire eventually, but it took me about an hour of stuffing around and my "project manager" got angry, because I was supposed to be in the kitchen making her a salad, not mucking around in the garage. The time I got it on properly I had to deflate the tire completely, and even then it was difficult because with the tire completely deflated the stem of the valve just pushed into the rim. Surely this is not normal? What's the trick of attaching the darned thing? Also, how can I just check the pressure? When I attach the thing I expect the guage to jump up and show me what pressure it's at, but it just stays at 0. The tires say on the side to inflate to 110 psi (7.5 atm), but my pump only goes up to 100. <Q> Those valve stems are too short for those deep deep rims you've got on there. <S> You can tell just from the photos that the valve stem isn't sticking out far enough from the rim for the pump to fit all the way on it. <S> Hence, it's not contacting the valve enough for you to inflate your tires. <A> For shorter stem presta valves in deep rims the trick to fill air is to first deflate the tyre about 50%, then push the pump head onto the stem with one hand while at the same time pushing the stem through the rim from the tyre side with your other hand. <S> Then use the lever to get a good seal. <S> When you pump it up, the increase in pressure in the head of the pump will depress the presta valve on its own. <S> As Daniel Hicks said in a comment in this thread: <S> There is no need to depress the stem in a Presta valve, since air pressure will open the valve when the pump develops more pressure than is inside the tire. <S> All that's necessary is to briefly tap the stem before putting on the chuck, to make sure that the rubber gasket is not stuck closed. <A> "Remove valve cap, unscrew thingy in valve, and tap it a little - a jet of air shoots out. <S> OK. <S> " <S> You've got that right. <S> If you have the proper pump, and the chuck is working properly, then simply pushing the chuck on and flipping the lever should do it. <S> Normally, when you press the chuck on far enough a little button in the middle of the chuck will press the "thingy" down to let air out and let you read the pressure. <S> It may be that your chuck is poorly designed (or not really "stem agnostic") and you'd do better with a screw-on adapter. <S> (And some chuck designs require changing out the innards to do Presta valves.) <S> (It really isn't that difficult and fussy with the right pump and the right technique.) <A> Inside the Presta pump head there will be a peg behind a rubber washer, which depresses the valve on the stem which is engaged when you move the lever into the elevated position. <S> At the same time, typically a set of jaws will clamp onto the body of the stem holding it in place. <S> It sounds very much as if your pump isn't able to activate the valve sufficiently to break the seal, and therefore when you pump, the air is backing up against the rubber washer rather than inflating the tyre. <S> As mentioned above, this could be an artifact of the exposed stem not being long enough and you should look to: use either a chuck which doesn't require as much stem to be exposed; to replace the inner tube with one with a longer valve; or use a valve extender (that leaves the existing core intact), or if the tube has a replaceable core to screw in a valve extender (like those available from Continental). <S> This will remove the potential for insufficient stem being exposed to be a limiting factor and permit the pump to be exercised to ensure it is functioning correctly. <A> The pump appears to have a valve which is supposed to switch automatically between Presta and Schrader as needed. <S> In my experience, these valve don't always work. <S> I have a similar pump where the valve has become stuck, and I can only use it for inflating Schrader valves now. <S> If this is at the root of your problem as well, among many alternatives, you can 1) buy a new pump, or 2) get a Presta-->Schrader adapter . <S> My guess would be that if you operate the pump off the bicycle tire, air should come out the Schrader valve side. <S> This will show you in which mode the valve is operating. <A> You need a special Presta valve suited to the tire pump or an adapter to convert your bike tire's valve temporarily to a Schrader tire valve , so you can use a standard tire pump. <S> After filling, you remove the adapter till the next time. <A> One trick I have used in a pinch when my stem was too short for the rim depth (as your picture is showing) is to place my thumb against the tire at the point of the stem and carefully press in until the stem is being held out of the rim. <S> This can give the leverage needed to attach the pump head to the short stem length. <S> While the stem extender solution is a good one, your rims are not the super deep rims that require such a long stem that are not readily available. <S> Go for a nice long stemmed tube and your particular issue should be solved. <S> Also, I had trouble with unthreaded presta stems causing the pump head to slip off before the tire was fully inflated. <S> I purchased a new pump head, and now it is difficult to remove the pump head on threaded stems, but the pump stays attached to the stem all the way to 120+ pounds on the unthreaded stems.
|
Sometimes, I find it useful when pumps aren't functioning as I'd expect them to, is to use an inner tube with a known working valve without it being installed in a tyre.
|
What are good ways to dry shoes? I ride through the winter in the Pacific North West and get soaked about every other ride. What are the best way you've found to dry your shoes? I've found that stuffing them with wadded up newspaper works well to draw the moisture out, but if I don't swap the paper out every couple of hours, I just get damp newspaper that smells of mildew. An ideal solution would be passive - in that I would set the shoes up and then just grab the dry shoes a day later for my next ride. <Q> From a theoretical point of view, there are some possible methods to take water out of a fabric object, such as a shoe: "Replacing" the water for another, faster drying liquid and letting it evaporate; Squeezing the water out directly by compression and twisting (not usually adviseable); "Force field" like gravity and centrifugation; Capilary action (which is what the newspaper does); Thermal action (sun, heater); Wind action (free-air, fan). <S> The last two increase the rate of evaporation, the first by increasing the internal energy of water, the later by reducing the relative humidity of the air layer close to the fabric. <S> The problem that still persists is how to actually implement this air heating and circulation without a complicated device or combination of devices... <S> I use to put newspaper inside as you described, but for the first three stuffings, I squeeze firmly (stepping over if necessary) so that most the moisture is mechanically removed. <S> Then I put extra, dry newspaper and leave the shoes hanging in the open air. <S> Unfortunately, depending on weather conditions, this not always work. <A> I find that I'm still toasty warm even when it's very wet and down to 0C/32F. <S> Then when I finish the ride, I can hang up the shoe covers and let the shoes air out and everything generally gets pretty dry for the ride home. <S> Plus riding in sandals in summer is awesome! <A> There are a number of products that are referenced as "boot dryers" which would serve your purpose. <S> They are commonly used for ski/snowboard boots but will dry any shoe out efficiently. <S> Know that using these will stink up a whole room like a gym locker room, so use them with discretion in your home. <A> I have a Dry Guy Boot dryer which I put my shoes on after I get home to dry them out. <S> The heat really isn't needed, just set the timer to air out my shoes and gloves. <S> They also make a portable one that can be used with a 12-volt car power that works with just one pair of shoes at a time. <S> This is also useful after a long ride where you've been sweating a lot to keep them dry and prevent them from smelling. <S> I use this thing after every ride to keep my shoes fresh <S> , I just set the timer appropriately depending on how moist the shoes are. <S> You can probably DIY something like this easily with a large computer case fan and some PVC pipe if you're so inclined, but you need to make sure it's designed so that the water doesn't drip directly on to the fan. <S> If you don't use a boot dryer, you can fill the shoe cavity with newspaper and that should suck out some of the moisture. <S> You'll want to squeeze as much out as you can in to the first packing and then re-pack the shoes. <S> You'll probably need to re-pack a few times over the course of a day to get them really dry. <S> Placing them in front of a fan or by a heater will help speed up this process. <A> You should acquire a good dryer, the kind with the tray insert that you can set shoes on. <S> Easiest way to dry your shoes every time. <S> You're in Corvallis though, so there's <S> it's a safe bet for me to wonder if you're in a dorm or apartment that doesn't have a washer and dryer. <S> In this case what I do is prop my wet shoes in front of a space heater ( obviously, making sure that they're not so close that they get too hot ). <A> When I ride into the office I use the hair driers in the changing room to kickstart the drying process and then, during the day, I leave them on a ventilation grid close to my desk. <S> I also use the wadded up newspaper method - but I find that the stream of (dry) air is more effective if available. <A> If I really had this problem a lot I'd consider buying a boot dryer . <S> It blows air through the boot/shoe to dry it out, and can also be used to dry helmet and gloves. <A> I've found booties (shoe covers) to be pretty useless if you're cycling over 10 km. <S> Rain will inevitably get in. <S> I have a pair of SPD shoes with removable in-soles. <S> SPD shoes generally have a plastic base which doesn't soak through like fabric materials. <S> Since the insole can be taken out (when you arrive at your office in morning or wherever) the 'wet' parts of the shoe are separated so dry quicker. <S> Wear a good thick pair of socks and pack another for your days work to put on when you arrive. <A> If you have a regular drier, tie the laces into knots, and close the drier on them to suspend them inside the drier. <S> Turn the drier on high. <S> This came from this post: http://kc-bike.blogspot.com/2008/09/tricks-of-trade-drying-your-grimy-shoes.html?m=1 <S> Also, make sure you check the manual for your cleats. <S> Some manufacturers will void your warranty if you expose your shoes to high heat.
|
Then (always theoretically) one possible way to dry a shoe quickly would be to force-circulate warm, dry air inside a newspaper filled shoe that has been previously centrifugated/squeezed after being rinsed in warm water with a bit of alchohol. My solution is to wear cycling sandals (I use Shimano SD-66 ) in combination with neoprene shoe covers.
|
How to convert a multi-speed bike to single-speed with coaster brake? Now I don't want to take all the credit for this bike, but I'm pretty sure Trek must've lovingly had me in mind when they made this. I mean come on. This bike is awesome. Buying their beach cruiser was one of the best decisions I've ever made. Now I've got my eye on this puppy. So speaking of the beach cruiser, I really liked that it braked when you pedaled backward. I also liked the single gear splendor. I'd rather be climbing in a single gear at 3mph than zooming past all the ladies in top gear. More time to ask them whether you're supposed to floss before or after you brush. Just kidding. But seriously. The answer is after . Back on point, can you modify a bike to be single gear and do that backward pedal brake thing? Think Trek would do this for me if I requested it with my order? How hard is it going to be to custom mod my rig with tools and stuff? <Q> The desired conversion is possible, but maybe Trek won't do it as a "default" service. <S> You could consider going to the local bike shop and trade some of the bike parts (specially the gearing system) for a coaster brake wheel. <S> If your bike is like the one in the photo, you need to replace the rear hub, and get rid of the cogset, the derailer and the twist-shifter. <S> You can do this at home if you have some mechanical skils, but replacing the hub and relacing the spokes is not very simple. <S> And if you're so chatty with the lovely ladies as you are when asking questions on the internet, they sure get a lot of talk! <S> ;o) <S> EDIT: As Freiheit has correctly pointed, when you put a single cog and get rid of the derailer, something must be added to compensate for the almost inevitable chain slack. <S> MORE EDIT!!!!As people correctly pointed out, <S> you CANNOT use a chain tensioner if you use a coaster brake. <S> , might not give you a good gear ratio, cannot compensate for chain slack; Use an adaptor (usually not the most robust solution, but ok for a cruiser if you really want the coaster brake): <A> I used a carbon fiber frame to make a single speed with a coaster brake. <S> I had to reinforce the part of the frame where the lever of the coaster brake is attached. <S> I used spacers and no spring chain tensioner. <S> It works great to go around town to get coffee in a terrace. <S> In my opinion all depends on what is the purpose of the bike. <A> Its hard to do with a vertical dropout <S> but you can usually "cheat" it using a 1/2 link in the chain. <S> It will allow for some wiggle room with getting the chain tension right, note that this is not a perfect fix (sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't) even if it works your chain will probably still be a little too slack (or too tight).List of parts you will need for the conversion: <S> Coaster brake rear wheel of appropriate diameter and axle spacing, 1/2 link for chain and or possibly replace the chain with an 1/8" width chain and 1/2 link. <S> That's it... <S> Best solution <S> I'm sure your unicorn is lurking out there some where. <S> Buena suerte!
|
So the solutions are: Use a chain tensioner but not a coaster brake; Choose a magic combination of chainring and cog size (very difficult : Find a similar bike from a different manufacture that comes specked with a coaster, there are a LOT of bikes out there nowadays I suggest a tensioner like this, of DMR brand (with a bolt, to be placed in a fixed position, not a spring):
|
How to avoid sore nipples while riding I have a recurrent problem when riding in high humidity climate, either with hot or cool weather: after some hours riding, my nipples (in the chest, not in the wheel :o) get very sore from friction against the shirt's fabric. It seems that it has to do with salty sweat, the waving-flag movement of the shirt fabric against the skin, and perhaps with cold causing nipple erection, further increasing the friction. A more experient friend of mine has reported the same recurring problem, having even seen people bleeding from this. So I ask if anyone else has suffered from this problem, and how I could expect to solve it. I am considering to take along some band-aids, but I think there could be some preventive measure before the band-aids be needed, in the first place. Thanks for any insight! <Q> This happens to runners more than bikers but is the same thing you describe... friction. <S> I've done band-aids, tape and even special products ( Nipguards ) made for covering just the nipple area but the best remedy I've found is compression clothing. <S> Even in the middle of summer, I will wear some skin tight Under Armour shirt. <S> I'll switch to their cold gear during the winter, but always wear something skin tight under my upper layers. <A> It's caused by friction when your top rubs against your nipples, moisture from sweat (or rain) tends to make it worse. <S> Wearing technical clothing that draws moisture away from your skin will help, along with some kind of barrier cream. <S> Personally, I use bodyglide as I find it easy to apply, but vaseline or nappy rash cream should work just as well. <A> Don't wear 100% cotton, it's a sponge for moisture and soaks up your sweat. <S> They become heavy with moisture and this causes them to rub and chafe the skin. <S> I tend to really like the american apparel tri-blend track shirts for a better alternative (you can find cheaper tri-blend track shirts on amazon for about 1/2 the price). <S> You could also get technical gear that is either 100% synthetic, including compression clothing (like under armor). <S> However, my favorite is wool. <S> There's a reason cycling jersey's used to be made primarily out of wool. <S> It is also one of the best base layers to use in the winter since even if it does get wet, it will still be insulating, as opposed to many synthetics. <A> Try Chafeaway for friction and chafing of the skin. <S> It is an actual peel and stick body wrap. <S> You can cut it to fit any part of the body. <S> they sell it on Ebay... <A> I have the cure (I suffered with this same problem from biking). <S> The cure? <S> New-Skin Liquid Bandage, you can see it on Amazon. <S> Works for me. <A> This provides some advantages: <S> Less clothes overhead when on multi-day trip. <S> One of my friends carries 5 t-shirts on each multi-day hike. <S> That's more than a kilogram. <S> The ultimate evaporation - unmatched by any clothes. <S> Furthermore, there is no clothe, which the backpack to press against the body and increase sweating. <S> Unbuttoned shirt serves the same effect, even better. <S> The wind creates vortex in the shirt and cools even better than when naked. <S> Of course, there are some downsides: <S> Some people are uncomfortable showing themselves or watching others do it. <S> If riding all day in the sun, severe sunburn is a sure thing. <S> Marginally lower protection in case of a crash. <S> Only usable from about 15 C upwards.
|
Heat Gear (odd naming, but actually cools the skin too) in the summer just to prevent friction between cycling jersey and the nipples. You can easily find lots of t-shirts that are 50/50 cotton & polyester blend which helps a lot, they can still be a problem, but I find they stay dryer longer. Regular bandaids come right off due to sweating. I have had this problem when running (it's known as jogger's nipple ). I have a couple wool t-shirts that I wear all the time since they breathe well and tend not to get saturated easily. Liquid bandage forms a rubbery covering that will stay on. You could ride your bike without a shirt.
|
How do Mini V-brakes compare to cantilever brakes for Cyclocross bikes? I've got a surly cross check with straight bars, v-brakes, and mountain shifters. I was considering a switch to a drop bar setup for cyclocross racing so I have an alternative to my single speed cross bike. I'll be switching to STI shifters, so I have to replace my brakes since Shimano STI levers don't work well with the existing v-brakes. I am considering a pair of TRP CX9, Tektro RX6, or Paul's Mini Moto. These should be compatible with my STI levers. However, due to a lack of information about this, I need to know why I would prefer cantilever brakes to the mini-v option? Possible issues I was considering: Do mini v-brakes have to sit closer to the rim? Will this cause me to slow down more when my wheel goes through an inch or two of mud? Are the mini v-brakes going to be as effective at stopping? Will the modulation be poor, causing me to OTB more often when I try to stop suddenly? Is there a large difference in tire clearance between mini v-brakes and cantilever brakes? If it matters, I tend to ride a lot in the northeast/mid-atlantic region of the US and it gets really muddy here, so I doubt most races will involve a dry pack course. I also tend to get out on to real trails and ride on mountain bike singletrack from time to time. <Q> Correctly set up V brakes don't make feathering any harder or easier than correctly set up cantilevers. <S> What you give up with V brakes is clearance--for things like mud. <S> If you ride in dry conditions, the V brake is likely superior. <S> If you ride a CX bike mostly on road or gravel, the V brake is likely superior. <S> If you ride in gloppy sticky mud, a wide-open cantilever will take longer to cake up...and will be superior. <A> I recently installed TRP CX9s on my Surly Cross-Check with SRAM Red controls and the original Salsa Bell Lap bars. <S> Simply put, the stopping power is there and it will take some skill to deal with low modulation. <S> Now, if you are racing cross, I would recommend against these for the front... <S> that is, unless you don't brake ;). <S> On the rear, I have felt comfortable with the results so far. <S> They are good at cutting through the muck that might build up. <A> I switched to mini-v brakes, then to cantis. <S> The mini-v brakes worked well, but I had a few issues. <S> Here's what I found. <S> Do mini v-brakes have to sit closer to the rim? <S> Will this cause me to slow down more when my wheel goes through an inch or two of mud? <S> Yes, the mini-v brakes pads sat closer to the rim in resting position, and since my rim was a bit out of true, they rubbed a lot. <S> If I set them loose enough not to rub, I didn't have enough braking power. <S> Switching to cantilevers set the pads further away from the rim and had no problem with rubbing on the brake pads. <S> Mini-v brakes also did gather mud around the brake pads a bit more than the cantilevers. <S> Are the mini v-brakes going to be as effective at stopping? <S> Will the modulation be poor, causing me to OTB more often when I try to stop suddenly? <S> I didn't notice a lot of difference in modulation between the mini-v brakes and cantilever brakes. <S> Is there a large difference in tire clearance between mini v-brakes and cantilever brakes? <S> Yes, there is much more clearance with cantilever brakes for both tires and mud. <S> I swapped in 700x41c tires and I had to remove the boot from the brake cable on the mini-v brakes because it would occasionally rub on the tire. <S> I have a lot more mud clearance using the cantilever brakes, probably at least an inch above the tire, where I had only a few millimeters using mini-v brakes. <S> Regular v-brakes would probably have about the same mud clearance as the cantis, but don't work well with the cable pull from STI shifters. <A> While I don't have any experience with road type v-brakes, I was considering them for a while and asked my LBS about them. <S> They told me that the biggest difference is that v-brakes offer more stopping power than cantilevers but also make feathering the brakes for speed control more difficult.
|
I feel like the mini-v had a bit more power and could lock the rear wheel more easily, but I never felt that I couldn't feather the brakes in a similar fashion to my canti brakes.
|
Stop SPD shoes from grinding I have a pair of Chrome Midway Pro SPD cycling shoes. These look like sneakers, but have a cleat mount embedded in them. Mine have worn down a bit and now the cleat crunches against the ground all the time. What can I do to make the cleat stop grinding? Maybe build up the front of the shoe around the opening with a few layers of gorilla tape or glue strips of old bike tires to the bottom of my shoe, any suggestions? <Q> <A> They sell cleat covers you can use to protect the cleats, and the floors you walk on. <S> Most of them are for SPD-SL <S> but (i think) <S> the ones I linked to are for SPD. <A> I wear Chrome shoes as well, but only have the regular Midways. <S> Chrome, although their shoes are less than satisfactory (for me), have excellent customer service, and I mean EXCELLENT. <S> If you have some sort of defect on your shoe, take it into one of their shops, and they'll replace it for you. <S> (Within the 1 year warranty) Mine was splitting on the sides between the sole and the plastic band that's glued onto the shoe. <S> They replaced it no questions asked, and extended my warranty 1 year past the day of replacement. <S> That being said, this would only work if you bought your shoe less than one year ago, and still have the receipt.
|
A cobbler (i.e. a shoe repairman) can glue a new layer of sole (e.g a non-slip rubber sole that's suitable for winter) onto a pair of shoes' existing soles: so perhaps ask a cobbler.
|
How to handle an attempted bike theft TLDR; I chased down a bike thief and caught her. Turns out she's a juvenile. She claims she mistook the bike for her own. The police say if we press charges, nothing will likely come of it because it's a he-said/she-said situation. What should I do? Last night, my beloved racing bike got stolen off of the front of a Muni bus in San Francisco. I'd been watching it like a hawk, and saw it as it happened. The driver did too. He yelled, "Your bike!" and opened the door for me, I dropped my stuff and took off after the thief. She was obviously having trouble keeping her feet on the tiny Speedplay pedals, and I managed to tackle her as she slipped. Two security guards happened to be right there, and apprehended her. Thankfully, the bus driver waited for me, so I was able to retrieve my laptop bag (and 40lb bag of cat litter — man, that would have slowed me down). It turns out this happened right outside of the girl's apartment, and her mother and grandmother came out due to the commotion. The mother was genuinely and earnestly disappointed in her daughter. The police told me given her story (she mistook the bike for her own) and lack of prior arrest record, it would be hard to take it any further than a police report. The problem is that in order to convict, we would need to prove intent, and that would be difficult to do. Having done some Googling since, as I (possibly incorrectly) understand it, the city prosecutor would be responsible for pressing charges and would probably opt not to do so. Is that the case? And how should I proceed? I'm not convinced that pressing charges would result in a positive outcome (either if it wasn't successful or if it was; sometimes kids just do stupid shit and need an event like this to change their path). What would you do at this point if you were in my situation? <Q> Press charges, and have the police issue a warrant to search for a bike similar to yours/ Investigate ( <S> Asking her mom/neighbors questions about a bike that may be <S> similar)If <S> she shows up with one, you're out of luck, but it's probably not likely. <S> I'd think that when somebody adjusted my seat height, I would notice. <S> Good luck! <A> Don't bother - your bike, laptop bag, and cat litter were not lost. <S> It was a horrible experience no doubt, but in the end you didn't lose anything. <S> So what can be gained from this experience? <S> Stopping anyone else's bike being stolen by the juvenile is the obvious one. <S> If we assume that this was the first time she had attempted to steal bike - it went horribly wrong and would probably put anyone off doing it again anyway. <S> Especially if she came from a decent home, her family will give her some serious grief. <S> Personally I don't think there is general right or wrong answer, every situation is different. <S> The above is just my take on what you have written. <A> imho, you should press charges - this will help to make world around you a little safer place. <S> By not pressing charges you will send a wrong signal to the thief and to the police <S> The broken windows theory is a criminological theory of the norm-setting and signaling effect of urban disorder and vandalism on additional crime and anti-social behavior. <S> The theory states that maintaining and monitoring urban environments in a well-ordered condition may stop further vandalism and escalation into more serious crime. <A> Every time I've had my bike stolen, the police were mostly dismissive, or had helpful advice that should have protected me "next time" but <S> typically, didn't (My most recent theft was from an enclosed and non-obvious bike room in my complex's underground parking, locked with a U-lock). <S> At the very least, you know who did it. <S> Most of the time, you're not so lucky. <S> I would press charges for that reason alone. <S> As for the police's assessment that little to nothing will come of it, that's correct. <S> In my jurisdiction, stealing a $1200 bike is no different from stealing a chocolate bar at a convenience store from the point of view of the law. <S> It's all covered under the law for "Theft under $5000". <A> I've had bikes stolen in SF too and it sucks. <S> Get some reusable zip ties, and zip tie your bike to the rack. <S> That way, a thief has to also come up with a plausible reason why they disabled your locking mechanism to get at your bike, and you have a bit more time to get out of the bus and after them. <S> On proceeding in this case, "How to Sue Someone Who Stole Your Stuff <S> " suggests you may be able to pursue civil penalties: You have two options when seeking to sue someone who you believe has stolen your possessions: contact your local district attorney to file charges or file a lawsuit in civil court. <S> Note that you do not have to choose between civil or criminal enforcement, they can both proceed simultaneously. <S> For a civil suit you need to show that you were somehow adversely affected by her actions. <S> If there was any damage to the bike, you could probably go after her for the cost of repairs. <A> Unfortunately, the police are probably correct. <S> It's probably a waste of time trying to prosecute her. <S> It's fortunate that you didn't lose any property. <S> What is likely to happen here, is that in a few years, the police will likely be dealing with this girl again. <S> Only this time, the theft won't be of a bicycle, but a vehicle! <S> She'll feel like she got away with an attempted theft one time ( who know's, maybe this is just the first time she was caught! ), and have a similar exceuse the next time she's caught. <S> The police and her mother and grandmother are doing her no favors at all. <S> I'd bet they knew the bicycle isn't "just like hers!" <S> She'll likely see the inside of a jail cell in the not too distant future. <S> Glad it turned out for you!
|
If this was one of many attempted bike thefts then pressing charges (which as you say will almost certainly not result in any litigious action), won't change her behaviour - you will have just wasted your own time. Additionally, there is no way she would be able to pedal away with a bike that doesn't fit her, so her height and physiology may also make your case. If the amount is relatively small (generally under $5,000) you can file an action in small claims court, which is a streamlined and simplified system where you do not necessarily need an attorney.
|
How much faster can i go after moving from 2x10 to a 3x10 gear setup? My 26" mountain bike currently has a 2x10 gear setup with SRAM components: a SRAM S-1250 crank with 38/24 chainrings, and a SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t cassette. I feel that when riding on non-technical dirt trails I am maxing out my drive-train, meaning that I am not able to accelerate beyond a certain speed when riding the 'hardest' gear.I have been reading about the Shimano 3x10 system which may allow me to reach higher speeds, due to higher possible transfer ratios. So, how much faster can I with a 3x10 setup? please elaborate on the math in your answer... <Q> Well, if you switch to 3 in front, and then make it a 52/38/24 set (equal steps) <S> then your theoretical new maximum speed would be: [new max]=52/38*[Your current max] <S> Currently at your top speed one revolution of your crank leads to 38/11th of a revolution of your rear wheel. <S> This will become 52/11th or about 1.37 times as much. <S> This is not the whole story however. <S> You probably know that wind resistant is much more of an issue at higher speeds than rolling resistance. <S> So (unless you are really strong) your actual maximum will be quite a bit lower than the theoretical maximum calculated above. <S> This tool allows you to set your speed or power output and calculate the other. <S> If I assume your current max as 30kph, your bike weight at 9kg, your weight at 70kg (don't be offended, I'm just guessing), and you are on MTB tires and in the "hoods" position (whatever that is) <S> then your power output at that speed would be about 220 Watt. <S> With the extra chainring in front your theoretical maximum speed would be 41.1kph (all other variables being equal) but to attain it you would need to about 470 Watt! <S> More than twice as much! <S> Obviously in your current situation you are not pedaling efficiently at your maximum speed because you are spinning your legs like crazy, but a 1.4 times speed gain is probably too much to hope for. <S> As a test to see where you can get you could ask your friendly LBS owner if he'll lend you a bigger front chainring for a test ride and see if you can find out from that at what point you max out. <A> Assume your wheels have a circumference of l = 2 m. With a 38x11 gear you will cover d = <S> 38 / 11 * <S> l <S> = <S> 6.91 <S> m per crank revolution. <S> Assume that you can pedal at a cadence of 90 rpm, that will give you a speed of v = <S> d * 90 rpm <S> * 60 min = <S> 37.3 km <S> /h <S> On a road which allows for such speed you should be able to pedal at a higher cadence if you have good riding technique, i.e. achieve even higher speeds. <S> The maths don't care about brand names, but take a Shimano XT triple with 42-32-24 teeth instead: d = 42 / 11 <S> * <S> l <S> = <S> 7.64 m <S> This results in <S> v = 41.2 km/h at 90 rpm, which is (41.2 * 100 / 37.3) <S> - 100 = 10.6% faster. <S> Actually, the ratio of the two different big rings will give you the same (42 * 100 / 38) - 100 = 10.6% as well. <S> If you keep your 11-36 cassette, the drive train will have a total capacity of (36 - 11) + (42 - 24) = <S> 43 teeth, which may be more than what your rear derailleur can take care of. <A> I am going to skip the gear ratio discussion because others have covered it, and it really isn't the most important consideration. <S> That might be enough to keep your from spinning out while still retaining the capabilities of the bike. <S> If you decide to swap out the cranks/chainrings and get something more like a road-bike or cross bike, you will mess with the intended design of the "mountain" bike. <S> There is nothing wrong with doing that <S> but the gears are low on a mountain bike for very good reasons like negotiating stumps, ruts, rocks, mud/gravel and even very short 100% grades.
|
If you're spinning out frequently, you'll want a higher top gear, but you can only go so high with those cranks-- probably 42, max, on the big chainring. Apart from that it is often easier to maximize downhill speed by optimizing aerodynamics instead of pedaling.
|
Affordable security nuts and bolts I don't ride particularly fancy bikes, but I do ride in New York City, so I'm interested in securing the components on my bikes without using a ton of locks. Most security bolts products cost a bunch of money, though. Anyone know of affordable sources for security button-head or socket-head M5 and M6 bolts, or M10x1mm nuts, especially in stainless steel? McMaster-Carr only has them in English thread. <Q> If you can find some ball bearings that just fit into the allen key sockets, then you lube them up with thick grease, it's quite difficult to remove them. <S> Use a magnet to get them out. <S> Although I imagine a good bike thief would carry a magnet because this trick is quite common. <S> You can also replace your quick release skewers with allen key skewers. <S> They wouldn't be the most secure solution, but they would work better than quick release skewers. <S> If you use nutted wheels, you can pick up some security nuts for a lot cheaper than you can buy security skewers. <S> Check you local professional tool supply store and you can probably buy them by the piece for a couple bucks each. <S> They also sell security skewers which are cheaper than pitlock. <S> The disadvantage over pitlock is that they all use the same specialized tool to remove whereas pitlock has 256 differently shaped pits available. <S> So they would be safer than quick release, allen key or hex nut, but less so that pitlock. <S> And almost definitely safer than the bike next to yours. <A> I just did a little more digging myself, and found a promising source for bike-sized stainless security Torx bolts: <S> http://www.bicyclebolts.com/collections/bicycle_bolts <S> Security Torx aren't the hardest driver bits for a thief to get their hands on, but a bike thief isn't that likely to carry them around, and my parts aren't fancy enough to be worth a trip to Home Depot. <S> I've also found what looks to be a very small British manufacturer of security axle nuts: <S> http://www.seclock.co.uk/Seclock/Bicycle_Nuts_1.html <S> They don't look easy to get a grip on with vice grips, and if the tool needs to be ordered from abroad, it's probably not going to be common on the street. <S> In researching the Pinhead skewers, they are apparently relatively simple to defeat with a "Gator Grip" tool, and this is supposedly known to thieves at least in the SF area. <S> I have seen it claimed that newer ones come with a security washer as a countermeasure to this attack. <A> Assess the risk for the single parts, and start with the most risky ones: Wheels <S> Pitlock skewers work very well and will outlive a couple of bicycles. <S> In comparison to wheels interesting enough for a bike parts thieve, they are cheap. <S> Saddle <S> The second most stolen part seems to be saddle and seat post. <S> You can attach the saddle rail(s) to the frame using a piece of an old chain, without a chain lock of course. <S> Nicer looking options include, of course, Pitlock (a seat post clamp bold and a cover for the seat clamping bolt ). <S> Alternatively use a separate lock cable through the seat rails. <S> Stem and handlebars <S> Now it gets harder. <S> An ahead stem can be fixed using a Pitlock insert . <S> Still, the stem/handlebars connection is there, too. <S> Maybe the bearing ball option mentioned in another answer is the way to go here, and even for the bolts of the precious shifting and brake levers. <S> Drivetrain <S> This is hard. <S> A lot of simple bolts, and potentially valuable parts. <S> I would instead use cheap derailleurs (with good cables and proper assembly they will work very well). <S> A cheap crank set upgraded with good quality chainrings when the first set is worn out <S> does not look attractive for thieves either. <S> Camouflage <S> The cheapest option, and working very well <S> : Don't let the bike look good. <S> Stickers, tape, dirt, rust, weird colors all have their place. <S> Be creative! <S> In Germany we call it Boruttisieren ( translated by Google ), after the guy who brought the concept to perfection. <S> Behaviour <S> As long as there is are enough more attractive victims nearby, your bike is pretty safe. <S> Take that into account when leaving the bike somewhere. <S> If it still is attractive to a thieve, it will help if you don't leave your bike in a predictable manner, e.g. not at the same place during work time monday to friday etc. <S> That makes it pointless for the thieve to prepare (e.g. by taking a magnet). <A> A wide range of security bolts and nuts, together with technical information and videos are displayed on this site: www.securityfasteners.net . <S> You mentioned socket button screws in your post - the site has information on the security pinned versions as well as other security screws. <S> Hopefully you'll find it useful for making a decision. <A> Sphyke.com has a system where you can use any normal cap <S> screw that you like (up to M9). <S> Then a Stainless steel/ Alloy 'security cover' is placed over the head so it cant be accessed. <S> Only with your personalized combination lock code can this security cover be removed. <S> They also have the M10x1 nut version you ask about using the same system.
|
I figure putting a security bolt on one side of each of my racks, in the binder bolt and seat bolt, and in the headset bolt would be pretty good deterrence while still making the bike easy enough to adjust. There are cheaper replacement skewers which are not as safe (basically variations of allen key bolts).
|
Bicycle for 2 x 30mins commute I plan to use my bicycle 5 days a week to get to work and back, approximately 30 minutes(~6 miles /10 km) one way, mostly good/ok roads but with some bumps here and there. Should I care about cx bicycles because of not perfect road conditions or typical road bicycle would be able to endure? I don't care about comfort that much and only carry my laptop with me in a backpack, so my priority is to get from one point to another and do it fast. Any recommendations? Thank you. <Q> A 10K commute is pretty short, I would say almost too short for a racing style bike for several reasons. <S> I would recommend you look at tourer or hybrid bikes. <S> Allow me to explain. <S> You say you are not really interested in comfort. <S> I assume you will ride in your regular clothes. <S> This is a bad combination. <S> When done regularly, no matter the amount of discomfort you are prepared to take. <S> A hard saddle and stiff frame, combined with the seams-in-stupid-places of your regular outfit will wear you down. <S> Moreover, 5 days a week, regardless of weather means dirt everywhere, even on paved roads. <S> Your clothes will get dirty, and you might even get mud in your hair, so you'd need to shower. <S> But with a 10K commute the time it takes to change clothes and shower takes up a significant part of the total time you spend commuting. <S> (if showers are available at your place of work). <S> Then there is the matter of durability. <S> This is just one of the many things that can break. <S> Remember: "regardless of the weather" so dirt will accumulate, oil will wash off, things might rust. <S> I expect you are not going to spend every weekend meticulously cleaning, checking and oiling everything, so you want durability. <S> My suggestion for a good commuter bike for 10K one way in your regular clothes would be a touring bike with full fenders (to keep away the mud) a chain guard, puncture proof road tires and a relatively comfortable saddle. <S> This will be heavier, so your top speed will be lower, but any time that costs you you'll easily gain not showering, changing clothes, and fixing your bike. <A> It ain't that simple. <S> :) <S> You want to ride fast, but your estimated 30min duration would mean a 20km/h pace, which is quite leisurely. <S> Are you going to take a shower and change clothes afterwards? <S> If you're going to ride at a 35km/h pace, you'll save 13 minutes from the commute, which you will then spend at the shower and locker room. <S> :) <S> So, for the slower pace I'd suggest a higher end "hybrid" with rigid front fork and larger (30mm) tyres, somewhat upright riding position and fenders. <S> For faster pace, either a CX or road bike. <S> Doesn't really matter. <S> They can handle the rough patches too. <S> If you go for the road bike get as wide tyres as it fits. <S> IMO using 23mm tyres on a commuter bike is just silly. <S> Also, expect to spend $200 on clothes and shoes. <A> The reason for going for one over geared bikes would be the added simplicity of not having derailleurs to maintain. <S> I consider my fixie ideal for commuting - its steel so can handle a few bumps, and although I ride 23mm tyres (the roads in London are perfect!) <S> , I think it ships out of the factory on 32mm which should be quite absorbent. <S> I can get into a decent position on it and (depending on traffic) can go at speed...also its great fun to ride. <A> A nice hybrid bike will be OK. <S> IMHO <S> you shouldn't spend more then <S> 400$ (if you plan to use it only for commuting), but not less then <S> 200$ <S> (or you'll get total crap). <S> Just remember to clean & lube your chain every 2 weeks <S> and it'll last you for a few years. <A> It really depends on how big the bumps are. <S> You might want to stay away from a full carbon bike as they are rigid and you will feel everything. <S> When you say road bike I assume you mean racing style. <S> A tourer or hybrid may also do the job but the fastest will be a racer. <A> My answer would depend on how secure your bike will be once you lock it up at work. <S> Is it locked up outside? <S> What are the odds it will be stolen? <S> The greater the odds it will be stolen, the cheaper the bike you want to use to compute. <S> And that price will limit your choices. <A> I do a Similar length comute every day in the UK. <S> It's a bit undulating with 100m climb all told and some steaper than I would want myself for a singlespeed <S> so I need gears but don't want to do regular maintance <S> so hub gears it is. <S> It rains a lot here so full mudgaurds essential. <S> There are some bits that get jamed with traffic and the pedestrians tend to step out infront of me so in the wet I see disk breaks as essential. <S> My answer is an older 8 speed Charge Mixer <S> but there are a number of Hybrid hub geared disk offering availible. <S> It's a bit heavy and slow feeling as people sprint away from me at the lights <S> but that just makes getting out on the road bike at the weekends more fun.
|
A CX bike might fit fenders better, which are a really nice option on a commuter. Nobody so far has mentioned a single-speed or fixed-wheel bike but if your commute is pretty flat it may be worth considering. Some comfort -a good saddle and fenders- will save you time and pain. Think about the appointment you will miss because you had a flat 5K into your commute and you had to either walk 5K or take the time to fix the flat. The main thing is that in two years I have just had to fix 2 punctures and tweak the cable tention twice no other maintnance event with no cleaning and riding it into a river the once. You can get "Roubaix" style that are built for a bumpier ride.
|
Is it possible to glue or patch tire sidewalls? This morning I discovered that my commuter folding bike had a bad flat tire, and I ran out to buy a new tube, no problem. I didn't notice until after I'd changed the tube that the tire sidewall was beginning to crack. I need this bike for my commute tomorrow, and am not going to be able to get a replacement tire on short notice. Is there anything I could do to reinforce the sidewall to minimize the chance of a catastrophic flat tomorrow? I saw something on Answers.com about supergluing tears in tires, but I don't know if that's good advice or not. <Q> You need to "boot" the inside of the tire with a dollar bill or purpose-made tire boot or some such. <S> You shouldn't glue the boot in place, but you may use a small dab of glue to keep it from shifting while you install the tube and inflate the tire. <A> I usually carry a park tool emergency boot in case of big tears on the tires. <S> When in need and desperate, a dollar bill along the inside of the tire where the crack or tear is on the tire does the job too. <S> Just keep in mind that it's a very temporary fix and a replacement tire should be bought as soon as humanly possible. <S> Just make sure not wrap the dollar bill around the entire inner tube. <S> Be Safe and Be Green. <A> I use a standard tire patch on the inside of the tire to fix this. <S> It's only a temporary fix, but it works very well. <A> I have my doubts about using superglue. <S> The tire bends and flexes and the glue will fail. <S> If the crack is a small age crack in the side wall and doesn't go through the cord inside the tire, I would just put in the tube and ride. <S> If the cut/crack goes all the way through the cord and is visible inside the tire you can cut a piece of the old tube and glue it over the split on the inside of the tire. <S> If you don't have anything but preglued patches use one or two of them to cover the hole. <S> Install the tube and inflate the tire. <S> I have used a tire boot (it basically a large patch) on mountain bike tires with success. <S> MTB tires run at much lower pressures. <S> The boots are available at your local bike shop and are worth having for situations like these. <A> I'm assuming you lived through your commute, but for posterity if your tire has a sidewall tear because it's so dry-rotted that it's failing on it's own, you need to skip the commute and fire up the car or take the bus. <S> I regularly do this for tubeless punctures that are too big for the Stan's goop to seal. <S> Same principle for tires with tubes. <S> For bigger punctures you can use a purpose made tire boot. <S> Basically the same as the tube patch, only bigger. <S> In a pinch, a folded up bill, a candy bar wrapper, whatever's handy. <S> I've seen people stuff leaves in a cut tire to get to a tube to stay in - mixed results on that one. <A> If possible, please use alternative transportation. <S> If you are really really persistent and want to repair your commuter bike rather than using other means, there are glues and patches available online (even on the high-street shops). <S> I have seen them and they are okay for a normal dry weather day to fix the tyre and keep going. <S> BUT I STILL WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THEM because if the weather is hot, they might affect the tyre. <S> It is always good to have a backup tyre, but <S> hey! <S> you cannot predict that it will have trouble when you are at home (may be at work?). <S> The best way to preempt and avoid this kind of problem is to check your tyres every 2-3 months, or earlier if you have had quite a rough tarmac to go through recently. <S> Tyre cracks are also affected when you keep your bike outside overnight for a long period. <S> Atmospheric pressure, humidity, temperature, etc. affect the tyres. <S> keep that in mind. <S> I hope this helps <A> I remember I had ~ 2 inch tear on my Kenda K-Rad. <S> I glued it from the inside with a rubber adapter from a light reflector and it did a good job for another half a year. <S> It's totally not the end of the world and in the worst case scenario you will simply stuck with flat (your tube will escape from the tear and pop like a baloon). <A> In the past, I have tried a few different things: I have melted rubber from an old tire into the inside lining of my tire where the hole was. <S> If it's a crack, I have put duct tape on the inside doubled with non sticky side on rubber.so one folded piece with no stick on inside of crack, then the rest of the tape wrapped all around inside of tire. <S> I've also glued with gorilla glue or rubber cement to the inner tire, placed a mesh like material or a thin Lacey type of material onto the glue and lining of inside tire. <S> Let dry <S> and then some times put that graited yellow duct like tape used for fixing holes in the wall to cover material. <S> Hemp works well <S> say if you don't have nylon in your tire. <S> You can compensate so your tire life is longer. <S> Also, once I had a slit in my valve stem <S> and so I took some thick string <S> and I put a thin layer of rubber cement or contact cement, and put it on the valve stem. <S> Then wrapped the string around every bit of the valve stem and put more glue on top of my wrap. <S> It actually worked perfectly.
|
If you've got a small sidewall cut you can actually use the rubber glue type patches to seal the hole from the inside. Check the tire in the repair area to see if the crack is spreading. Superglue typically dries into a stiff,hard non-flexible film.
|
Tire slips off the rim when inflated to 8bar I bought new wheels for my roadbike (shimano wh-rs80 which have c24 alu/carbon rims). I was mounting tires on them yesterday and inflated them to 8 bar (~116 psi). After a few moments (30 seconds or so), the tire started to slide off of the rim at a certain place, resulting in the inner tube to expand more than it could handle, and blow out. I tried again with a new inner tube, checked that no part of the inner tube was stuck between the rim and the tire, inflated to 4 bar or so, checked again, inflated to 8 bar, BOOM. Same problem. The tires are almost new continental GP4000s 23mm (a few 100 kms on a fulcrum 7 wheelset this summer) which were stored for a few months without using them. The inner tubes are also continental. I checked the inside of the rim and can not see any damage or anything that looks odd. There is a factory installed rim tape in place, all brand new. I had this twice with the front wheel and the same tire. I could try the rear wheel and/or the other tire to see if there is any difference, but I am a bit reluctant to potentially destroy yet another inner tube at this point. Am I doing something wrong? Did I miss something given that these are new wheels? <Q> Especially when seating a new tire for the first time (and probably more so on a "virgin" rim) it's wise to inflate to about 1/3 or 1/2 final pressure and then roll/bounce the wheel around quite a bit, to work the bead into position. <S> Then deflate, break the bead loose all around, and repeat the process. <S> Then, as you're doing the final inflation, watch the joint between tire and rim all around. <S> Usually there will be ribs in the side of the tire that should be a constant distance from the rim. <S> If you see the ribs moving up or down relative to the rim, stop inflating and manually work that section of tire back even. <S> Generally once the tire has been ridden a few miles it takes a "set" and will then reseat relatively easily if you have to repair the tube. <S> But do note that there are variations in tires and rims, some due to spec differences and some due to manufacturer differences. <A> I had a rim with similar behaviour. <S> Every tire was very easy to install and remove by hand on this rim, but it had a problem: while inflating, there were always a spot where the bead "tried to escape" from the rim, and I had to reseat everything by hand, cautiously, while slowly pumping more and more air. <S> The final result was rideable, but quite unstable, and once during a race the tire bead popped at a certain spot, and I had to stop, lower the pressure, etc, losing precious time. <S> There were no explosions, fortunately. <S> In the end, the problem was a MANUFACTURING DEFECT: the total rim diameter was about 3mm smaller than it should, due to some quality control mistake. <S> I gave up using that rim, and it now lies around, useless... <S> I don't know if this is your problem, <S> but maybe you could compare it side-by-side with other rims just to check it out. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Sounds to me like the bead ( <S> the part of the tire which seats in the rim) has seen better days. <S> This is like a thin steel cable molded in the tire. <S> Cut a cross-section of an old tire which you would otherwise throw away with a hacksaw to see the bead.
|
It's possible in several scenarios to have a tire and rim that are simply not compatible.
|
What to look for when buying bicycles for children I have young children (5 - 7 years old), and having taught them to cycle on some really cheap bikes, I am looking to get them something more road worthy with a view to cycling to school with them. (~1 mile). I looked briefly at a chain store (Not my regular local bike shop but closer to home), but was disappointed by build quality - The bikes were about twice as heavy as my own racer, the bearings seemed a bit rough, and the final assembly seemed to have been performed by chimpanzees. Even if I bought these, I think they would require a lot of tweaking after purchase and a lot of maintainance. What should I look for when buying children's bikes? Are there any check lists that anybody can recommend? With regard to weight, is it normal for them to be so heavy? Why are the tyres on children's bikes all so wide? (~2 inches across) - I would imagine that the lower weight of a child would make thinner tyres a better option? Thank you. <Q> To answer your specific questions first: <S> wrt weight: you are paying less for the children's bikes than for your own <S> I hope? <S> (they'll only fit on it for a few years after all) so kids' bikes use cheaper materials, cheaper usually means heavier in cycling gear. <S> Don't expect to match your racer, but twice as much is a bit much even for a cheap model. <S> Shop around a bit more. <S> Tires: <S> Width, and the thickness that comes with it means the tires can take more of a beating going over bumps, ridges, ledges and sidewalk edges. <S> So actually wide/heavy tires save you time in money in patches both for your kids and for the tires. <S> As for things to look for: <S> Make sure the bike just barely fits your kid now <S> (i.e buy maximum workable size), that way you can use the bike for a few years with just some adjustment to handlebar/saddle height. <S> Make sure you can add something like a flag on a long (high) pole to the bike. <S> That way your kid is still visible from the other side of parked cars etc. <S> Brake quality is a big issue, especially if you are going out on the road with your kids, more so if the route is slightly hilly. <S> avoid bikes with gears unless you like spending your weekends cleaning and fixing bikes. <S> Less gears=less maintenance. <S> Regarding the tire issue, and my point about bike size: when considering multiple bikes: get the bike with the largest tires. <S> Larger tires=higher gyroscopic force=more stable and all at the same weight. <S> Don't overspend. <S> Your kid is not going to be as careful with his/her bike as you are. <S> You shouldn't be wincing every time they just let the bike fall to the ground where they stopped. <A> My daughter is 13 and it is only this year <S> have we started looking at more "up-market" bikes for her - a hardtail (still pretty cheap by hardtail standards) and for christmas, a good-quality BMX. <S> I am still unconvinced that she is old/responsible enough to take care of them, but we'll see... <S> Up until then I have always gone down the "chain store" route. <S> There are two main reasons for this: first, you have to be prepared for them to treat the bike like crap. <S> And this is not just letting the bike drop without thinking, as Jilles says (although certainly this is true), but also things like leaving it out in the front garden, unlocked, on rainy nights to gradually rust or be nicked. <S> Second, kids will grow out of bikes, and probably a lot sooner than it will take the bike to fall apart, even if made by a chimp. <S> So you're not necessarily looking for a "well made" bike <S> , you're looking for a "well-enough made" bike. <S> Sure, the better its condition the easier it would be to sell on, but you'll never get big bucks for a second-hand bike now that people have eBay and Craigslist available to them. <S> In the 5 - 7 age range I'd have thought the most important thing will be teaching them road sense and safety, so would have thought getting them used to peripherals such as hi-viz gear, a helmet and lights would be more critical than the bike itself. <S> Bikewise maybe introducing them to a derailleur setup (we got a noddy 5-speed for my daughter at one point <S> but she may have been older than 7) <S> - obviously it is useful going forward for them to be familiar with this but also from my experience a kid will see a mountain where you or I would see flat road! <S> But certainly I wouldn't rule out "chain-store-quality" bikes because, like I say, you'll probably end up throwing it away eventually. <S> Though of course you may prefer to shop at your lbs if you have an existing relationship with them (and you want them to stay in business). <A> I'd suggest a visit to your local bike shop to get some recommendations from them concerning either new bicycles or possibly a used bike that's on the shop floor. <S> Safety and reliability would be top priorities at this point. <S> You don't want the children to have any mechanical problems going to or returning home from school. <S> A good used bike may be a good choice since at their ages they are growing and developing rapidly. <S> Just make sure that the children like and are happy with the bikes suggested, or they won't care to ride very much. <S> You are obviously concerned with quality and reliability while they may be more concerned with colors and accessories. <S> Since you are familiar with bicycles, looking at the "for sale" ads or garage sales for possible bicycles is also a possibility.
|
Wider tires are more stable because of the wider surface and because the higher tire weight that comes with width increases gyroscopic stability of the tires. Be sure that you use a bike shop you trust, not a shop just trying to clear bikes off of the floor because they've sat there for awhile. You may even get lucky and find a bike for the 7 year old that the 5 year old also likes and can grow into when the 7 year old gets a larger bike in a few years.
|
Advantages / disadvantages of freecoaster and cassette hubs I've been reading a lot over the past few days about BMX, and last night I watched a few videos like this one . I have been seeing the words "freecoaster" and "cassette" around a lot, and I was curious what they were, so I looked them up - freecoaster does not require pedaling to go backwards, while a cassette hub does. In that video (around 3:08) I assumed that they were pedaling backwards just for "style" or whatever to make it look cooler - and after reading I think it is a cassette hub he is running. What are the advantages of a cassette/freecoaster hub, and am I right to assume that if you take your feet off of either to do a trick that they will not keep spinning (provided that you press off of the pedals evenly and don't produce a spin)? <Q> My son wanted to change his freewheel/cassete hub to a freecoaster hub <S> so I did some research about 6 months ago and found this great YouTube video from Odyssey and RideBMX magazine all about freecoaster hubs. <S> As you said, the cranks will not move when coasting backwards. <S> For my son, this is the real advantage and why he wanted the hubs. <S> Landing a 180 out of a half pipe, his freewheel hub did not allow great control of the bicycle requiring him to spin cranks as he rolled backward (just like that trick at 3:08 in your video). <S> In the end it came down to money and we (he 12 year old) did not want to spend the money to get a new wheel with a freecoaster hub <S> , you cannot just swap the axle/mechanism/insides of your freewheel shell with a freecoaster mechanism, you need a shell/hub that supports the freecoaster axle/mechanism. <A> Freecoaster: Advantage is coasting backwards. <S> Disadvantage is higher weight and price. <S> Cassette/freewheel: Advantage is lower weight and price. <S> Disadvantage is no coasting backwards. <A> It is much easier to fakie out of a quarter or 180 type trick.
|
As you have to back pedal when you fakie it makes it much harder to balance compared to a freecoaster. The only bad thing with freecoasters is the higher price and the extra pound. The bad thing about the cassette is that it is much harder to fakie out of a trick.
|
Recommended handlebar style for short daily commute? I am looking to buy a bicycle for a San Francisco city commute totalling 4.1 miles (about 6.6km) in each direction. My question is, what handlebar position (and riding position) would be recommended for such a ride? I notice drop bars are very popular here, but I am concerned that the bent over position would be stressful given that I will be commuting 5 days per week. At the same time, I do not want to overly stress my quads. Perhaps a compromise is recommended? <Q> For a short commute in street clothes I opted for flat bars with bar end extentions. <S> This allows some different hand positions and for me a more comfortable upright position. <S> If you are riding for the first time is several years, bike fit is more critical than bar type. <S> A bike that is the wrong size will never be comfortable no matter what type bar it has. <A> I love a good drop bar, but if you're only going 4 miles, an upright position might be more comfortable for you, especially if you're starting to commute for the first time. <S> Start with your basic commuter bike if you want, something that looks like this, with some flat handle bars. <S> http://s7d4.scene7.com/is/image/TrekBicycleProducts/52049 Head to a bike shop where you can test drive some different models, maybe you even end up liking the drop bars more. <S> Especially if you have some hills in your way on your commute. <A> They give you several different positions; on the drops, on the brake hoods and on the top of the bars. <S> The top of the bars position is fairly close to and upright position like you'd see with regular handlebars. <S> I immediately thought of the hills and winds you can run into in San Francisco! <S> There may be times when a more aerodynamic position would be your best choice for efficiency. <S> If you haven't purchased a bike yet, perhaps the local bike shop will allow you a test ride using different handlebars available on bikes they have at the shop. <S> I've even seen the drop bars used upside down for a totally different look and fit.
|
Once you get your bicycle set up correctly...seat height and position forward or aft and tilt angle, and the handlebar height, any position you use with drops should be fairly comfortable for your short commute. I believe I'd opt for the drop bars.
|
Replacing brake system on a bike Is it possible to change the braking system from rim brakes to rotary. I want to replace them because I hate how after a while the pads wear out and I need to replace it so I think the rotary might be better. What would I need to do? <Q> In general, you can't replace rim brakes with hub or disk brakes unless the frame is designed for that. <S> In particular, hub or rim brakes place too much stress on the front fork unless the fork is designed for them. <S> You're probably better off buying a new bike with the "right" (for you) brakes factory-installed. <S> But I'm surprised that you have so much trouble with rim brakes. <S> I just had my rim brake pads replaced for the first time last year, after putting about 10,000 miles on my current bike. <A> They may seem expensive, but <S> both Koolstop and SwissStop work pretty good. <S> Search around, there are many online sellers. <S> You can see a significant change in brake performance with the right pads installed. <A> watch this video it does describe in details the process
|
The most practical solution would be to upgrade your brake pads.
|
Good pedal and shoe combination for summer touring First off given that I will be sightseeing as well is it worth the extra weight to take a dedicated cycle shoe and a walking shoe or is the extra hassle of having something else that can go wrong not worth it? I'm wondering what are some good combinations of pedal and shoe for touring. Should I go for a dedicated touring pedal like the A520/A530? I don't know anything about shoes so some recommendation would be good there as well. I will be touring japan in the summer so it will be warm but still possibly quite wet. Finally, how hard is a pedal/shoe combo to set up correctly for comfort? Is it something that's worth getting done in a shop? I have a good LBS and they will most likely do a basic set up for free. <Q> My preference is for SPD clipless pedals and "walkable" clipless shoes. <S> But I still have a pair of lightweight "tennis shoes" in my gear for campsite, days off, etc. <S> Another option, if you can still find them, is the old-fashioned "touring" shoes and regular toe straps. <S> "Touring" shoes are (or were) quite walkable, and it's reasonable to walk miles in them <S> (whereas you'd not like to do that in even "walkable" clipless shoes). <S> It is a little tricky setting up clipless shoes -- the cleat position needs to be positioned correctly. <S> Partly this is trial and error <S> (be sure to get your setup early to try it out), but a shop can help you get the right "initial conditions". <S> (For those who've never seen them, touring shoes look superficially like bowling shoes, with relatively flat, smooth soles, to more easily slip into and out of toe clips. <S> Unlike bowling shoes, however, the soles are reasonably stiff -- flexible enough for easy walking but stiff enough so that the pressure of the pedal is reasonably well distributed over the bottom of the foot.) <A> Grant Petersen has an interesting article about clipless pedals and their perceived benefits for recreational riding. <S> I would recommend reading it and then making up your mind. <S> Quickly summarized it says that you won't have any benefits for normal riding and that you therefore should ride in the type of shoes you find to be the most pratical and comfortable. <A> Everyone has different strategies for touring. <S> I prefer to travel light and wouldn't want extra shoes. <S> Others prefer to be more comfortable, and prefer to carry more. <S> Those pedals are a good choice if you plan to have extra shoes. <S> Just get some comfortable mountain bike shoes (they protect the cleats better than road shoes) with good breathability (I like my Giro Carbide shoes) for riding and take some other comfortable shoes for walking. <S> Alternatively, If you don't mind eschewing clipless pedals and shoes I've used hold fast straps with BMX platform pedals for touring with regular non-clipless shoes. <S> You have to be careful that they are adjusted properly and that your shoes are not too far forward or back, since improper foot position can cause pain from bad habits like ankling .
|
I'd say an extra pair of light weight shoes are a good idea if you prefer to use clipless pedals and plan to do a lot of walking.
|
Finding store selling SM-PD64 reflectors for the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals? I've bought the Shimano Saint PD-MX80 flat pedals. According to the user's manual, an optional reflector set is available for them. In Shimano's dealer's manual one can read that the reflector set is called SM-PD64 ( according service instructions ). However, I didn't succeed finding a store selling them (I could not find it neither on ebay, amazon, froogle nor several bike shops I know). Does anyone has some suggestions on finding stuff which is obviously sold not so often (preferrably a store shipping to Germany)? <Q> I have no experience with reflectors but I do have experience with ordering "bit parts" from Shimano <S> so may be able to help. <S> The first step was to go to the Shimano site and find the official distributors for my country (UK). <S> I was quite surprised since I'd never heard of them, but fortunately they had a website etc. <S> (So if you have no joy with the German distributor, you may wish to try the UK distributor). <S> When I contacted them, these people were happy enough to order the stuff for me, but (a) relatively-speaking they were very expensive, and (b) they took an age to arrive - <S> it was like the distributor had to order them from Japan. <S> If I tell you that what I had was some SL cleats, and all I wanted was something as simple as some replacement screws (this was when I first started riding, one of mine fell out one day <S> so I figured it would be sensible to get some spares). <S> With hindsight I should have just bought some new cleats, which of course I ended up doing anyway eventually. <S> Its as few years ago but I can have a look through my old emails and find out exactly who I ordered off, if you can't find this on the Shimano site. <S> Let me know if you'd like me to do this. <S> Hope <S> this helps some. <A> My searching for those reflectors also ran into a dead end. <S> You may posssibly want to consider using some light reflecting tape cut to the desired shape or even light reflecting paint for that same area. <S> Excellent light reflecting tape like is used by emergency vehicles and road signs <S> is available in many hardware stores as is the light reflecting paint. <S> Either of these alternatives should also save weight. <S> The light reflecting tape is also excellent for use on your helmet. <A> As pointed out by andy256 in a comment, several shops are selling them now in 2017 (also in Germany). <S> I ordered them in https://www.bike-discount.de/de/kaufen/shimano-reflektorset-sm-pd64-fuer-pd-mx80-487758 (where I saw them accidentally while searching for something else) for just 6.49 Euro. <S> So finally after 4.5 years I have proper reflectors instead of using reflective tape :) <A> I was curious about this <S> Once you see it back in stock, you may want to see if they'll ship internationally.
|
so I looked up this item in Amazon.co.jp, and it's available but out of stock -- and is being sold by a third party vendor.
|
How often should I change my mountain SPD bikeshoe cleats? I bought a pair of Shimano PDA600 SPD pedals along with a pair of cheap-ish Garneau Terra MTB shoes in early 2012. I wear them for my daily commute (approx. 18 Km) and semi-regular long distance rides. I also walk on the street with them - to the office, pub, etc...not very far. The cleats when new have right-angled edges, but now they have been "worn"/"smoothed" into more curved edges. To use they "feel" a little bit loose, but sometimes they feel quite sticky (hard to remove my foot from the pedal), so I'm not sure. On other pedals, I've changed cleats every few years, but I rode a lot less. Is there a recommended period of time (based on usage, etc) to change cleats on MTB shoes? Also, is there any suggestions on how to increase the life of your cleats? (I guess one would be don't walk on the street!) Thanks. <Q> I have similar problems as you describe, but mine come from dirt, mud, and other things that get caught in while doing MTB. <S> Aside from that, the Shimano SPD pedals develop some sort of a lip as they wear out, in the side "ramps" that rise the cleat when you twist the foot sideways. <S> It happens in similar fashion as if you repeatedly hit the end of a metal rod with a hammer, until it deforms and starts to look like a nail head. <S> This "lip" makes it very difficult to twist the foot, hence it is difficult to release the cleat from the pedal. <S> The solution I have implemented is to file those lips out every now and then. <S> Sometimes it is so little that even sandpaper can do the job. <S> After that, clean the mechanism the best you can with a toothbrush and apply some lubricant. <S> Apply lubricant also when you feel it's necessary. <S> (I do it before every MTB ride, but almost every 10 rides for city commuting) <S> Regarding cleats, at least for me, I never change them, my shoes usually die first, then I try to put the same cleat on new shoes, and only if the bolt is too hard to remove <S> (happened once) <S> then I use new cleats... <S> My oldest pedals are 13 years old now, in the bike I use the most (the MTB for XC and light DH), have other 2 bikes with old SPD on them (commuting or urban riding), but only one pair of shoes for everything. <A> To my knowledge, there's no time frame that's given as a guideline. <S> I would think that the reason for that is that there are too many rider-specific factors that contribute to their wear, or lack thereof. <S> Under that criteria, it sounds like yours are due. <S> Then again, as DanielRHicks suggested, it could be the pedals that are worn out. <S> Personally, I'd try the cleats first since they're cheaper. <A> My limited* experience with Shimano SPD was that a drop of oil on the cleats can resolve the hard-to-get-out problem. <S> (*) Only had them for a year quite a while back, didn't like the feel.
|
Close inspection to the pedal clamp mechanism is all it takes, scratch the ramps with your fingernail and if you feel a little stop near the end of it, then you file it and repeat the fingernail test until your nail can freely slide out of the ramp... I've always heard that they should be changed when they're either hard to engage, won't stay engaged, or hard to disengage.
|
How should I train for a century while still commuting by bike to work? I'm going to start training for a May gravel century at the end of March. This is my first century. I plan to follow this training schedule here: http://www.kintera.org/htmlcontent.asp?cid=54755 . My concern is that I commute by bike to work, which is 6 miles each way. Tuesday through Friday's rides will be on a stationary at the gym over lunch, which means I'll be also riding two separate 6 mile rides on those days. On one hand I'll be putting an additional 12 miles in. On the other hand they won't be consecutive miles and will be broken into 3 different rides those days. Should I adjust the training miles to account for this, or just ignore my commute miles? <Q> Take a "short cut". <S> I commonly take a "short cut" on my 10-mile commute, riding up to a neighboring community and then down a bike trail, adding another 17 miles. <S> Added: <S> The advantage to this is that you're already dressed and on your bike, so the time required will be ONLY the additional time you actually spend on your bike. <S> Get going 90 minutes earlier in the morning or get home 90 minutes later in the PM -- no extra changing, no extra showers, <S> no extra hauling the bike around. <A> I wouldn't bother adding in the commute miles. <S> You should be focusing on getting your ride distances up, rather than nickle-and-diming a mile here or there. <S> I went through one of these training routines for a charity ride 7 years ago; just follow their schedule and you'll get there. <S> These things are tried and true. <S> Hundreds of riders use them every year. <A> Maybe take it just a bit easier on your commute for the days with a training ride than you normally would. <S> Whatever you do, don't give up the commutes. <S> They help maintain your fitness throughout the week. <S> I have never been in as good of shape as when I was training and commuting simultaneously. <A> I did my first 100 miles in October, I didn't train enough and it was extremely painful and unpleasant. <S> Get the miles in or suffer like hell. <S> You have been warned. <A> The first time I did my century, I ride 200 km / week, leading up to the ride. <S> After that I realised I didn't really need to ride that much, though it helped mentally. <S> These days, if I wanted to ride, say 150 km, I just need to ride at least that long every week. <S> Anything more than that will help finishing the ride faster. <S> So, if you commuted 60 miles a week, I'd just throw in 40 miles on the weekends and maybe do one long ride to learn about refuelling if you never done it before. <A> You need saddle time for a century ride, because the only way to train your backside to be in the saddle for four to seven hours is to be in the saddle for longish rides, like three to four hours. <S> A rule of thumb for centuries is that you ought to be able to go 70-80% of the distance about two weeks prior to the century. <S> I would add to that: over similar terrain. <S> Try to ride that at the pace you plan do the century at, and let those training rides inform your pace for the century. <S> In other words, if you're thinking you can do the century at 15 mph average, attempt that with your training rides, and see if it is realistic. <S> You don't need to regard your commuting miles as useless, however. <S> If possible, do some intervals while you're commuting . <S> Another thing I might add: long rides require proper intake of nutrition. <S> Personally, I find that I drink a fair amount on long rides. <S> For example, I did a 60-mile ride this morning, and drank about 2.5 liters of water. <S> To keep my electrolytes good, I always add some Nuun tabs to my water when I fill (and refill) my bottles. <S> These tabs acidify the water slightly, which makes it far more refreshing, and they also add electrolytes without adding sugar. <S> You can get some pretty bad cramps on longish rides when you neglect hydration, and that is another purpose of the 70-80 mile training rides: finding out how much you need to drink.
|
So in other words, if your century route includes 4000 feet of climbing, try to find a 70-80 mile training ride that also includes about the same amount of climbing. Ignore the commute miles and follow the training schedule. You also need to make sure to keep munching on stuff during the ride, like Power Bars or some equivalent.
|
Higher cadence or lower cadence for long distance cycling I am going to ride long distance like 200 km on my hybrid. I am not sure if I should pedal in a higher cadence (a lower gear, pedaling more frequently) or a lower cadence (a higher gear, pedaling less frequently) for the same distance. Or should I mix between both? Can anyone please suggest? <Q> 100 RPM minus your age. <S> (Only half kidding.) <S> 80-90 RPM is a good target for younger, fairly serious bikers. <S> When I was in my 20s-30s <S> I could do that for several hours. <S> As I get older (I'm 63) <S> I find it harder -- 70 RPM is probably closer to my "optimal" speed now, and I drift down toward 60 if I don't keep at it. <S> One rule <S> I tell folks that I think is good for almost all environments, whether flat-out or casual, uphill or down, is to never pedal slower than you're breathing. <S> Keep your cadence at 1-2x your respiration rate. <S> If you're riding along lazily with a resp rate of 30 you can get away with a cadence of 45, but if you're resp rate is <S> 60 your cadence should be at least 60, maybe 80-90. <S> Similarly, if your cadence is 90 and your respiration rate only 40 then you should be using a more difficult gear. <A> Out on the road its a mixture. <S> But first, are you able to measure your cadence? <S> I use this as my guide (i.e. I try and keep my cadence within a certain range no matter what the gradient) - if I am able to pedal comfortably at over 80rpm, then its time to change to a bigger gear. <S> If I'm unable to pedal comfortably at 65rpm, its time to go to a smaller gear. <S> That's my scientific approach. <S> Alternatively, when it starts hurting I change down, and when it feels too easy I change up. <S> But again I'm trying to maintain a constant-ish cadence. <S> But over that kind of distance you'll need to take your nutrition <S> seriously - keeping your energy levels up will be to key to allowing you to control your cadence. <A> Optimum efficiency is usually quoted as being somewhere above 80rpm which is usually a good deal faster than most people spin. <S> http://adventure.howstuffworks.com/outdoor-activities/triathlons/training/cycling-cadence1.htm
|
Climbing hills obviously takes it out of you as you're climbing them but generally speaking it should only be a short while (minutes) after you've passed the summit before you're able to pedal as normal.
|
Preventing rust in bolt heads I have several bikes and use them more and more in bad weather. I have no problem with rust on the chain, but I am seeing little bits of rust in the various hex bolt heads on the bike. What can I use to remove this rust and how can I prevent it from happening again. Note I ride things like Ragbrai, so keeping out of the rain, or drying the bike right away is not an option. <Q> This leaves a very fine film of oil that won't hold dirt but is just enough to stave off the rust if done regularly. <S> The spray also displaces (WD, water displacement, geddit?) <S> any water left from cleaning in any little gaps. <A> Where possible, replace with stainless fasteners. <S> Things like water bottle bracket bolts are readily available in stainless at a good hardware store. <A> Little bits of rust shouldn't hurt anything, but if you're getting lots of rust or it just drives you crazy <S> you might consider spraying them down with a wax based lubricant or dry lube. <S> Finish Line's Teflon dry lube might be a good option because it has a tendency to build up on chains, which means it goes on thick and may act as a barrier to oxidation. <S> Boeshield's T9 may be another option though it goes on thinner than Finish Line's product. <S> Of course these products aren't truly "dry" and you're going to be trading rust for dirt. <S> If you wanted to get really crazy you could pack the heads with paraffin wax, but that seems over the top to me which brings me back to my first point that you probably shouldn't worry about it. <A> You may have to do some searching to find the right sizes <S> but you could go with stainless steel hardware. <S> Buying them in small quantities can be expensive. <S> I have had issues with some hardware that is countersunk. <S> Conventional allenheads won't fit in the hole. <S> Maybe that is why they call the brand "Specialized". <A> I like using marine grease in the hex "slot" itself. <S> Just get a mini grease gun and some tubes of marine grease (both available from automotive shops), and then you can quickly apply little blobs of grease in each bolt head. <S> You'll end up with some grease on the ends of your hex wrenches whenever you make adjustments, but this way you know that your bolt heads won't clog with dirt or ice (or rust, which as others have noted usually does not meet destructive levels). <A> They sell galvanized bolts in almost every shape and size. <S> or find some cosmoline and thin it with mineral oil. <S> Give them a bath after you wire brush them. <S> They will last for years.
|
A mini grease gun is also what you use for maintaining Speedplay pedals. But most fasteners on a good quality bike are stainless to begin with, so it may be that you're not seeing "rust" per se but rather a sort of corrosion that can form on stainless. After cleaning I give the bolts a small squirt of WD40 followed by a good rub down.
|
What are some Routes to riding from Los Angeles to San fransisco? I'm a fixed Gear cyclist and I'm trying to set up a big ride with a group of friends from Los Angeles to San Fransisco. I am aware this is not an easy ride but we are willing to go, but I'm not sure Google Maps is giving a very good route for cyclists. Is there any place where I can find a route suitable for cyclists to get to San Fransisco. <Q> Friends who have ridden the coast from Vancouver, Canada to the Mexican border used Adventure Cycling Association maps for the route. <S> ACA has a series of maps that cover the route. <S> The ACA description of the terrain for LA to SF matches what I heard from my friends: <S> lots of climbing. <S> TERRAIN <S> This route segment is generally hilly, with lots of ups and downs following the coastline in the northern part of the state. <S> Some sections in the southern part of the route are rolling to flat, especially along the various cities' bike paths along the beaches. <S> From what I heard about the ride, it was tough enough with (multi-geared) road bikes. <S> I suppose, theoretically, it could be done on a fixie. <S> California Bicycle Coalition is one such example. <S> I have the SLO County map which they link to, and it's an excellent map. <S> Don't miss Turri Road when you go through there. <S> There are also many threads over at BF regarding this trip: San Francisco To Los Angeles <S> thread; Advice for Los Angeles to San Francisco thread; <S> Considering Riding From Los Angeles To San Francisco <S> thread. <S> Just to provide a few. <S> Lots of experienced answers in those BF threads... <A> Check out this option on mapmyride, goes along the coast, low altitude change with a few burly climbs. <S> http://www.mapmyride.com/routes/view/69166928 <A> Having made the Seattle-San Diego run (long ago and far away) <S> the simple answer is stick to highway 1 or highway 101 when necessary. <S> Be aware that highway occasionally drops into the ocean, so be prepared :) <S> As far as the fixed gear goes, I road a Masi which most assuredly has the wrong geometry for the job <S> and I don't really remember switching gears all that much. <S> My suggestion would be to choose carefully a gear that you can use a long time over terrain that is not flat. <S> Hugging the ocean means up and down every time you have a 'dent' in the coast. <S> The down is a blast, the up not so much. <S> There is such a situation on the north side of Elk CA which was steep to the point that I broke two spokes not to mention coming to a stop and falling over! <S> Enough war stories---have fun :)
|
If you look around the Web, there are many sources of bicycle route maps.
|
New 26" inner tube different size to old 26" inner tube The new 26" MTB inner tube is much bigger than my 26" wheel (and old 26" MTB inner tube). I don't understand why. How to shopcorrectly for new tube? The bike is 1990s Raleigh mountain bike. Edit : the new tube is very loose both deflated and inflated. The new tube specs are 26 x 1.5 / 1.75 / 2.125 F/V according to the box and tyre The old tube was 26 x 1.50 / 2.25 according to its box. <Q> Check the label on the tube - does it say '26 x 1 3/8' by any chance? <S> If so, this is actually a completely different size than the standard MTB 26". <S> Get a tube that says something like 26x2.1 or 26x1.9 - the point is, the tire width should be expressed as a decimal, not a fraction. <S> See Sheldon Brown's tire size chart. <S> Yeah, I know, it's stupid - I didn't come up with this system. <A> You can essentially inflate the tube out as much as you want until it pops. <S> If you over inflate it before mounting it, it wont fit. <S> Try using less air. <A> You might be better of if you compare ERTO-measures for your tires. <S> A 26 × 1 1/2 (= 26x1.5) is a 40 - 584 in ERTO, which is 40mm wide and 584mm in diameter. <S> A 26 x 1,75 is ERTO 47 - 559 which is wider an has a smaller diameter. <S> Modern tubes tend to cover a wider range of tire sizes. <S> Not everyone appreciates this. <S> If the tube fits without folds it will do the job.
|
Generally, also, tubes are marked for a certain size of tires, so try to match that too (if the tube is too big of a size, you may have it fold over itself, while if its too small the tube may be effectively a bit thinner than you like, but there is some tolerance in this - one or two sizes either way from the tire probably won't make a difference provided you're using the right diameter and both the tire and tube are sold as fractions or decimals).
|
Cable routing and why is there no optimum solution This is a general question, regarding the routing of the cables of both brakes and derailleurs on a frame. I find it highly practical to mount all cables along the bottom of the top tube . This offers the following advantages: The wide down tube protects the cabling from mud and gravy, originating at the front tire The top tube can support weight e.g. sitting* there or supporting luggage. What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? I am most puzzled the combined scheme "2 cables on bottom of the bottom tube + 1 cable on top of the top tube". * one of my pleasant habits is, when there are no free seats in the park and the grass is wet, sitting on the front tube, with the bike tilted, one hand on the brake and the other holding a beer <Q> What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? <S> Most Cyclocross bikes will route all the rear cables along the top of the top tube. <S> Many CX bikes have a flat bottom top tube as well for easier shouldering. <S> Routing the cables along the top keep them cleaner too, cyclocross races get muddy and if they put the cables on the bottom of the downtube, they would get very wet, muddy and allow grime into the housing. <A> In general, designers will seek to achieve the shortest possible cable routes while minimizing the number and severity of turns. <S> And off-road bikes will be designed with consideration of problems due to running through underbrush, etc. <S> Assuming a standard diamond frame: Under the top tube is generally a good place for the rear brake and derailer cables (except, of course, for bikes with downtube shifters). <S> It's usually best to run the front derailer cable along the down tube, though. <S> Where/how are your cables routed that it's bugging you? <A> What are the reasons of the other cabling schemes? <S> A combination of practicality and aesthetics. <S> Which direction it leans depends on the frame and routing scheme. <S> I am most puzzled the combined scheme "2 cables on bottom of the bottom tube + 1 cable on top of the top tube". <S> This is for practicality. <S> The cable across the top of the top tube is for the rear brake and puts less of a bend in the housing that leads to the brake caliper- <S> you reap the most benefit from this cable routing scheme with rim brakes.
|
In a cyclocross race, you will get off and shoulder your bike, the cables would get in the way on the underside of the top tube.
|
V-Brake levers for drop handlebars? I would like to try the drop handlebar on my touring bicycle that has V-Brakes, and Shimano 9x3 speeds. Are there drop handlebar levers (integrated shifters would be great), that have correct pull ratio for V-brakes? If there are brake levers but no shifters, where would be a good place to put my existing (deore shifters) on the drop handlebar? <Q> Most V-Brakes have a different pull ratio which is not compatible with brifters. <S> The TRP CX8.4 is for SRAM and Campagnolo levers <A> Tektro makes relatively inexpensive brake levers for drop handlebars. <S> They have a RL-340 model which works with caliper and cantilever brakes, and a RL-520 model that works with V-brakes. <S> I found this the hard way: I bought a Genesis single-speed cyclocross bike online, and it came equipped with mini V-brakes and the wrong levers. <S> The biggest surprise was finding out that it wasn't an assembly error: it was like that in the specs. <S> I ended up buying some RL-520s for $20 and replacing them myself. <S> I am not aware of any V-brake lever with an integrated shifter. <S> I have never tried one, but the standard in many touring setups seems to be bar-end shifters, as the picture below. <A> I have a Surly Long Haul Trucker which came stock with dropbars and Tektro 992 “Oryx” brakes cantilever brakes and levers. <S> I have now switched out those cantilever brakes out for Avid Single Digit 7 v-brakes and to specifically answer your question fitted Cane Creek Drop V brake levers. <S> These are not integrated shifter levers but, so I still have my bar-end shifters. <S> For me this update has significantly improved the braking on the bike.
|
Sounds like you want to use your current V-Brakes, but if getting new brakes, TRP makes mini V-Brakes that are STI lever compatible, sometimes called a brifter (brakes and shifting in one lever). The TRP CX9 is for Shimano STI levers
|
Do all stems have the same stack height for the steerer tube clamp? Does the height of the steerer tube clamp differ between stems, or is there one standard height used on all modern mountain bike stems? In my particular case I want to replace the stem on a mountain bike with a shorter one, but can I pick any other threadless stem and have it fight right on without needing any more/less spacers etc.? <Q> There will be slight differences in the stack height of the clamp itself between different makes and models of stems that can typically be accommodated for with addition or subtraction of a small number of spacers, or the difference may be so slight that you don't have to change your spacers at all. <S> Spacers are cheap so don't sweat it. <S> Doesn't sound like that's an issue in your case, though. <A> Stems are certainly not all the same height or length. <S> As long as you get the right diameter, I believe you should be fine. <S> I've had friends swap out stems to fine tune the positioning on a bike. <A> @kibbee Steerer length is not that important as you very very seldom get any other size than the standard 1 1/8" other sizes like the 1" steerer thread <S> less are normally only for retro conversions and will be almost impossible to find a stem in a LBS without a special request , you are however correct on the bar size, the old standard been 1" and the new standard of 31,8mm or oversized
|
The only situation where you could run into trouble is if you have no spacers and a steerer that is already nearly too short and you move to a stem with a taller steerer clamp (stack height). No, the clamp that mounts to the steerer is not a standard height.
|
Fixed gear wheel hard to spin My wheel feels harder to spin than usual. I just put new tires on, and at first I thought a tire must be rubbing, but that's not the case. Seems like the hub might just be gunked up inside, but I'm just speculating. From this video, does anyone else think this is higher-than-normal resistance? https://vimeo.com/57230216 <Q> The chain looks a little bit too taut for what I use in my fixie. <S> But I don't rely on my chain to stop the bike, as I am of the sissy kind that rides with brakes, so dropping the chain is not that bad of an issue, although it has never actually happened. <S> But from your video, there basically does not seem to be any slack in the chain <S> , I try go with 1-2 cm (1/2-1 inches) when pressing on it. <S> That means that you see some curvature on the bottom side, yours appears to be running straight. <S> This other question may help you get the tension right. <A> It does appear a bit off. <S> Looks like there is some extra resistance present somewhere in your drivetrain. <S> Check your chain tension. <S> If it's too tight, that could be adding resistance. <S> You could also remove the chain from the fixed cog and spin the wheel to see if the resistance is coming from the hub. <A> There are two things to check here. <S> Is your chain too tight? <S> When you push on it, it should have some movement. <S> A cm or two. <S> When tightening your wheel nuts, did you manage to upset the cones on your hubs? <S> Take the wheel off and turn the axel by hand, if it feels like its moving in steps then the cones have got overtightened. <S> To fix that, you'll need Mr Sheldon Brown's help. <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html <A> I rode over to the bike shop and had the mechanic take a look. <S> My rear cones were way too tight from a previous adjustment from a different bike shop. <S> He adjusted those and the wheel spins freely now. <S> I'll post another video tomorrow <S> so people can see the difference. <A>
|
It may be that, with the wheel off, you somehow overtightened the wheel bearings.
|
More freehub removal problems. So helpful folks here helped me get the cog and lockring off, and now I'm stuck with this. I looked on Park's website again for "removal of freewheel" help, but mine didn't fit with any of the methods. No hex wrenches, screws, bolts or anything. The ratcheting mechanism just seems sort of...on it. There's two notches (picture below), screams "two-pronged tool" but I'm starting to think this wheel simply cant be converted to a fixed wheel. New rear wheel perhaps? <Q> If the notches are about 25 mm apart, this may be your baby: <S> On the Park Tool website there are two very informative documents on freewheel removal , and destructive freewheel removal , which should answer all your questions. <A> There's a special tool that matches those notches so you can dismantle the whole thing. <S> You can reuse the rim, if you get a hub with the same number of holes, but you'll need new spokes. <S> You're going to need to know the spacing of the rear dropouts on your frame and find a track hub that matches that. <S> For mountain bikes this is usually 135mm, 130mm for road bikes, and 120mm for track bikes. <A> and there a nightmare to re-assemble. <S> If you want to remove the freehub body intact you need to use a 12mm Allan key from the opposite side of the hub.
|
The two notches are to remove the bearing race and dismantle the freehub body often resulting in tiny bearings going everywhere However, yeah, you'd be better off with a new rear hub.
|
Reflective tape instead of rear reflector, in Australia I currently have not enough room on my seat post for a saddle bag, rear reflector and a rear light. My question is if replacing the rear reflector with reflective tape on the saddle bag would be enough to satisfy the law here? The law states: "a red reflector that is clearly visible for at least 50 m from the rear of the bicycle when a vehicle's headlights on low beam shine on it". Note: My current rear light is a Lezyne Micro Drive Rear which doesn't act as a reflector. <Q> OK, so: <S> I called Queensland Transport, who put me through to main roads <S> I then called main roads back (since the first call got disconnected). <S> They told me to call my local main roads office, as their central number doesn't answer questions about compliance. <S> I called the local main roads office. <S> The inspector there told me this was an issue of legislation under the traffic act, and hence I had to call the Police instead. <S> I called the police central number; they told me I needed to call the local Police Traffic Branch. <S> Finally, I spoke to a very nice lad at the traffic branch, and asked him about this question. <S> He said that the only time you need the reflector is at night, and as such, if you instead have a front and rear taillight, and they're both turned on, then you're compliant. <S> You will not be "pulled over" for not having a reflector on during the daytime when you are perfectly visible. <S> His thoughts on the tape were that it sounded good - anything that makes you more visible is a bonus - but it wouldn't be any "more compliant" than the light itself. <A> Reading the link and interpetting it in the strictest sense I would say no. <S> My reasoning is that the law states "a reflector" that is clearly visible. <S> It does not say a reflective material that is clearly visible. <S> My other thought is that since reflective tape is cheaper and easier to install, if bike manufacturers could get away with reflective tape they would have used it. <A> Since we are talking about Australia, there are two distinct requirements: <S> Section 259 "Riding at night" of the Australian Road Rules about use of bicycles on road-related areas; and Consumer Protection Notice <S> 6/2004 <S> "Consumer Product Safety Standard: <S> Pedal Bicycles: Safety Requirements" about safety equipment to be present upon the sale of a bicycle. <S> Section 259 is short: <S> The rider of a bicycle must not ride at night, or in hazardous weather conditions causing reduced visibility, unless the bicycle, or the rider, displays: (a) a flashing or steady white light that is clearly visible for at least 200 metres from the front of the bicycle; and (b) a flashing or steady red light that is clearly visible for at least 200 metres from the rear of the bicycle; and (c) a red reflector that is clearly visible for at least 50 metres from the rear of the bicycle when light is projected onto it by a vehicle’s headlight on low-beam. <S> Section 259 does not talk about the technology of the reflector but does set a performance standard which it must meet. <S> Reflector isn't defined, so the usual dictionary understanding applies. <S> Note carefully the words: "reflector", not "bicycle reflector". <S> BTW only excellent reflective tapes will meet the performance requirement. <S> CPSC 6/2004 is a different beast entirely, referring to AS/NZS 1927: 1998 Pedal bicycles — <S> Safety requirements which in turn requires the rear red reflector to meet <S> AS2142-1978 Reflectors for pedal bicycles <S> which is essentially the same standard as the USA Consumer Product Safety Commission's 16 CFR 1512.16 "Requirements for reflectors" regulations. <S> The essential requirement for the rear red reflector is for a wide angle of reflection in the horizontal plane. <S> CPSC 6/2004 is where the requirement for the additional front, pedal and wheel reflectors comes from. <S> Again this only applies at the point of retail sale of bicycles: you can remove these all these devices after sale as long as you still show a rear reflector when riding at night. <S> I had the same issue as you, and mounted a traditional reflector on the traffic-side seat stay. <S> That satisfies the Australian Road Rules but not the CPSC 6/2004 regulations. <S> As an aside, the Australian Road Rules demand that a bell or other warning device is always required when riding on a road-related area. <S> So that's the often-missing item which police enforce in "cycling crackdowns". <A> It may be possible to use some red reflective spray paint on the rear of your Topeak Aero Wedge Pack. <S> If you don't wish to spray the Wedge Pack itself, you could spray some cloth and then sew it to your Wedge Pack using some heavy duty thread. <S> Just a few stitches at each corner should secure the material. <S> This area would likely be larger than the normal sized plastic reflector. <S> I've seen them at Walmart in the bike department. <S> The lamp can be a steady light or a flashing light. <S> You may be able to attach something like this to the seat rails. <S> From http://www.oneforceaustralia.com.au <S> Dupli-Color® <S> Nite Lites™ is a highly reflective coating that provides a custom look in dark conditions. <S> This reflective coating is highly visible when exposed to light in dark conditions, making it ideal for vehicle customisation or for reflective safety applications. <S> Nite Lites is ideal for spraying bumpers, helmets, children's bikes, car door jambs, fence posts, or any other metal wood, or plastic surface. <S> Here's a video attempting to show the reflective spray paint on a kids bike. <A> You never forget to turn it on, or let the batteries run down. <S> Personally, I run a Radbot 1000 on a rack mount, but also have red reflective tape on the seat stays, rack stays, rear fender and on my trailer. <S> White on the fork blades and on my clipless pedals that don't come with reflectors.
|
Good quality reflective tape is always a good idea. Nitize also makes a plastic red light that has heavy duty wire like twist ties to secure it on unusual surfaces.
|
Do shops that sell used bikes normally also sell used parts? Background I'd like to buy some used bike parts. I don't want to shop online. I'm not very good at bike repair. I want to ask the seller if the part is the right shape and size to fit my bike. If they say "no", then I'll know not to waste my money and time buying it and trying to install it. If they say "yes", and it turns out not to fit, then I can get a refund without paying for return shipping. I know that I can definitely buy used parts from a bike co-op . In fact, because co-ops disassemble so many bikes, they tend to have a better selection of used parts than most bricks-and-mortar vendors. But I live in the suburbs. I'd rather not schlep downtown to get to a co-op. There are two different individuals in my neighborhood who fix bikes in their backyards and sell them out in front of their homes. Perhaps they'll have the parts I need. But perhaps not. Another possible alternative for me would be to go to a local bike shop. My question What's the general rule? Do bike shops that sell used bicycles normally also sell used parts? <Q> They likely have "extra" bike parts around that are scavenged from bikes that were unrepariable, just be sure you know what your getting. <S> There likely isn't any warranty included on used equipment, so if it was a "distressed" part that finally breaks a week after you've been using it, you be replacing it again. <S> If you trust the bike shop and it is a reputable store that's been around for awhile, you should be fine. <S> Nothing wrong with used parts, just so it fits and works correctly for its intended design, and doesn't appear to have been abused or been on a bike that was not maintained or has been wrecked. <A> Short answer: <S> yes. <S> Long answer <S> : You might not find what you are looking for at a shop. <S> I would seriously suggest checking online. <S> Three reasons: <S> There are hundreds of models/sizes/configurations of bike parts. <S> The part(s) that you are looking for will need to match the parts/bike you already have. <S> Bike parts are a lot like cars. <S> They depreciate pretty quickly. <S> If a bike store is going to stock parts, they want to stock new stuff that will make them more profit. <S> Bikes are pretty self service. <S> There are a lot of individual people capable of replacing their own parts. <S> That means there are a lot of people with spare used parts for sale online (e.g. craigslist). <A> A bike shop will do whatever it can to turn a profit by selling cycles and parts and services. <S> Selling brand new takeoff parts is not at all unusual, because they sold the original for a profit and can sell the takeoffs for a profit. <S> Used stuff is more effort than profit, so expect much less of this. <S> A bike coop will do what it can to encourage cycling. <S> That involves fixing bikes for no profit, just covering costs normally (if even that much) <S> Upshot: You're most likely to get the help you need from your local bike cooperative. <S> Remember they can also teach you to maintain the bike yourself. <S> If you can tell us what city you're in, I can google it for you too <S> :-P <S> Don't be concerned about the people at the bike coops, they're there volunteering their time because they want to help cyclists. <S> They won't judge or make fun of you for some perceived fault, like I've seen bike shop monkeys do when a bike or rider isn't their "type"
|
The likelihood that your local bike shop has the exact part you need is pretty low.
|
Is 650b a better platform than 26" or 29"? I have seen more and more reference to the 650b (27.5") mtb wheel size. Whilst I don't see any need for a new standard, does anyone know of any benefit to have a 27.5" wheel over a 26" or 29"? While I understand there are currently 650b specific frames and wheels I haven't seen forks yet. Also can someone please make a 650b tag, I don't have the rep yet. Thanks. <Q> You might want to take a look a this question which discusses the advantages of 29" over 26". <S> 650b (or 27.5") falls somewhere in the middle and therefore performance characteristics will be somewhere in the middle of the two. <S> For instance, 650b would be faster than 26" but slower than 29" at same chainring/cog. <S> It would also roll over obstacles easier than a 26" but not as well as a 29". <S> Also, the weight would be somewhere in the middle. <S> Also, you should consider how easy it is to find parts in your area for a particular wheel. <S> Since 650b is only starting to gain popularity, it might be difficult for you to find the tires you want, or to find replacement tubes at your local bike store. <S> Also, I'm pretty sure you have to have a completely different frame for all 3 options, as tires aren't really interchangeable at that large of a difference. <A> Pinkbike recently did a little opinion piece it. <S> To summarise they thought 29ers were better for open, fast XC; whilst the 26" dominated in downhill, technical sections. <S> 650b (27.5") were considered to be poor in either domain, and not particularly liked by any of the 3 testers. <S> But remember it's all opinion and it really depends on what you do with a bike. <A> I know you tagged your question as "mountain bike", but there is also some interest in 650b for road bikes. <S> Jan Heine of Bicycling Quarterly is keen on wide 650b tyres for comfort without loss of speed . <S> ... <S> we chose 650B because it offers the best handling with wide tires. <S> The other reason you'd want 650b on a road bike is if you're a smaller rider (say 5ft 5in or less), or you're keen on very low trail. <S> In these situations, slightly smaller wheels fit a smaller frame better, when 700C wheels might result in toe-overlap or uncomfortable geometries. <S> The details are explained here . <S> The downside is that 650b tyres are harder to find, especially for road bikes. <A> I did not test the 650 extensively, but being "better" is a very relative term. <S> The 650 essentially is a compromise, so due to that, it is not better than the other platforms. <S> HOWEVER, in my opinion, 650 is closer to the 26. <S> I measured the overall diameter of a few 650B tires, most are right at 27 (or even slightly under 27). <S> That's only 0.5 inch difference from 27.5, but 2" smaller than a 29er really. <S> I made my mind up the first time I demo'ed a 29er. <S> I ride mostly XC and wooded trails. <S> The trails have steep drops and tight corners at the bottom, then steep climbs - essentially a lot of switchbacks along a ridge. <S> Throw in a few flat fast sections, and even some techinal areas, these are my local trails. <S> The 29er climbs MUCH better than my 26. <S> It is overall much faster on my trails than a comparable 26. <S> I still have my 26, but for my local trails the 29er wins hands down. <S> For my trails, I personally think 29er is better (i.e. faster, smoother). <A> I went from a 26 to a 29, you can go faster and <S> the is more efficient, your wheel takes longer to turn the bigger it is making you produce less work. <S> I would go with the 29, I love mine!
|
I'd agree with what Kibbee said that the 650B is essentially "somewhere in the middle" and it really DEPENDS on the type of riding you do. The only thing I would knock the 29er on is really tight twisty technical turns, but honestly it is not nearly as bad as I was lead to believe (or at least imagined in my mind). You could possibly put smaller tires on the frame than it is designed for, if you had disc brakes, but it might look odd, and might have weird handling. It depends on what type of riding you are doing to determine which is the "better" platform.
|
How to avoid turning the spokes while tuning the wheel When I tried to practice tuning my wheels, I found my spokes turn with the nipples. I tried to drop some lubricant on on the nipples, but I had the bike for two years now and there are a lot of dust clog in it. So the lubricant doesn't help too much. What can I do in this situation? <Q> When I build/maintain wheels, I specifically make an extra quarter-turn to the nipple and then quarter-turn backward to release the rotational tension. <S> This was recommended by Sheldon Brown <S> Lubing the spoke can help, but if your spokes are rusted, you might as well replace them with the new ones. <A> A lot of this has to do with how the spokes were prepped when the wheel was built, as well as the material that the nipples are made out of. <S> There are two primary materials that spoke nipples are made out of- brass and aluminum. <S> Brass is strong, cheap, easy to work with and doesn't have the same tendency to seize that aluminum does. <S> Aluminum nipples are typically a tad bit more expensive, can be more temperamental when building or truing the wheel, and more attention needs to be paid to spoke preparation because aluminum nipples tend to seize to the spokes. <S> The upside is that aluminum is lighter than brass so you can shave off some grams in terms of rotating weight. <S> For round spokes, you'd be surprised how far you can turn the nipple without damaging the spoke. <S> For most wheels in decent shape, after a third of a turn or so, the spokes will usually break loose from the nipples with a distinct "ping!" <S> sound and an obvious drop in resistance to being turned- <S> this is especially true of aluminum nipples. <S> Go much beyond a half a turn without movement and you're risking snapping the spoke or damaging the nipple. <S> If the nipple doesn't want to let go, you can try a tiny bit of penetrating lubricant and let it sit for a while. <S> If you have flat/aero spokes you aren't afforded the same wiggle room in terms of what the spoke will tolerate in terms of torquing a seized nipple free. <S> As mentioned in the comments there are tools made specifically for holding aero spokes in place while tensioning them. <A> Have you removed the tire,tube and rim tape then applied the the penetrating lube to the open end of the nipple? <A> The best to do is to disassemble everything, specially remove the nipples from the spokes and rim, and maybe remove the spokes from the hub for best cleaning. <S> If you are exercising wheel maintenance, then this would be a good exercise, and lubing the spoke threads is what you need so <S> that spokes stop turning along. <S> Once more, the "secret" is to lube the threads, not the nipple body (where it touches the rim). <S> I guess any lube would do, but only a very small amount is needed. <S> Hope this helps!
|
Now if your nipples are so rusted that you just can't turn the nipples in anyway, then you should CUT the spokes out with a wire-cutter and replace them for new ones, before you need to true the wheel and discover you can't.
|
Bicycle lights- Indicating in the dark I am a product designer and am currently working on a bicycle lighting project and would really appreciate your valuable feedback. In England, turning left on a bicycle is not really a problem as you would just follow the road, but turning right can be an issue as often you would have to change lanes or cut across traffic. Likewise in other parts of the world where you drive on the right, turning left would be the issue. That is why it is so important to use hand signals, so motorists can see your intentions. But how can motorists see your hand signals in the dark? I have an idea for a bicycle light which would clip onto the sleeve of your clothing; very much like the way an ipod shuffle would clip onto clothes. It would always be on; therefore acting as a safety light as well. If you wanted to turn right, you could put your arm out and then motorists could see your intentions through the flashing light. Many people have tried to crack the cycling indication market before, but it involves adding expensive and ugly lights to your bike. What if there was something as easy as the above, that just clips onto your sleeve- no need for bike modifications and probably less than a £10 spend. This in mind, any answers to the following questions would be great: Do you find it difficult to indicate in the dark? Do you think an idea like this would improve bicycle safety? Would this be something that you would buy? <Q> It's not clear from your question whether you ride regularly a bike, but really the best way to understand the requirements for a product like this is to get on a bike and do a bunch of riding around at night. <S> When you do this you'll find that the visibility of signalling at night is not as big a problem as all that. <S> First, the proper approach to making a manoeuvre is look–signal– <S> look–move: <S> that is, you always check that it's safe to move and never presume that anyone has seen your signal. <S> Second, bicycle position within the carriageway is a clear signal to other road users of your intentions: if you are positioned towards the left side of the carriageway, you intend to go straight on or left, and if you are positioned towards the right side of the carriageway then you intend to turn right. <S> (Assuming drive-on-the-left as in the UK.) <S> Nonetheless, there might well be people who would like to buy lights to improve the visibility of their signals, so I'll make a couple more comments: <S> A device that clips on to clothing depends on you wearing long sleeves and so will not be usable in the summer. <S> If you're going to wear a light on your wrist for signalling then the light ought to be visible from all directions (so that it does not matter which way you put it on or how you hold your arm while signalling). <S> The best shape would be a bracelet with lights all around. <S> So if I needed a device like this, I'd buy a SlapLit LED bracelet . <A> When I ride at night, I just use those "pant leg bands" with a velcro closure, that have reflective material completely around the band. <S> They fit easily around a forearm or wrist, and are easily illuminated by vehicle lights from any direction. <S> They take no batteries at all and last until they are somehow lost. <S> They can be used at any time of the year in any weather. <S> These have worked well for me and require no maintenance at all. <A> I think you've got a good idea here. <S> As a frequent commuter to work, I often have to ride at night on roadways with poor lighting and/or no bike lane. <S> The lights on my bike function well enough to warn drivers of my presence in the road, but do not offer near enough illumination to show any hand signals I may give--something which has resulted in several almost-accidents. <S> However, I do feel these should not act as a full-on replacement for lights on the bike. <S> In Florida, at least, it is required to have both front and back-mounted lights, otherwise you incur a hefty fine. <S> Keeping the extra lights at a lower cost would definitely make me want to add them to my cycling gear. <S> Avoiding adding more to my bike is also a draw. <S> Now you just need to market it to your overseas audiences as well!
|
I think by clipping on additional lights to your sleeves, you can better indicate your destination/direction of riding.
|
Fixed gear Biking, how to ride properly? I Have been riding bikes since I've been 6 years old, and I don't mean riding up and down the street - I mean touring with my sisters for 10-20 Km. Later on, I really got into Downhill. Over time I have collected an assortment of bikes and then I moved to America (from Germany). I could only bring one bike so I chose my Trek Full Suspension MTB. My bike got stolen. I'm on a really limited budget, and I could never waste $300 on a really crappy bike from Walmart, and I can't afford a nice 2 - 6 thousand dollar bike. So I spent $430 on a Mercier Kilo TT fixed gear. I am incredibly impressed, it's a complete new experience of bike riding and I love it. However, I worry about some of the dangers of fixed gear if not ridden properly, how can I do it safely? (This is my first fixie, and I really got it for it's simplicity and cheapness, I have ridden all sorts of Road Bikes and Mountain Bikes) <Q> Put a front brake on it if you're using it on the street. <S> Don't get distracted and forget to keep your legs turning, this comes with practice. <S> Watch out for pedal strikes in tight fast corners, not sure how you can practice this safely. <S> Other than that <S> , it's just like riding any other bike. <A> If you haven't already, invest in some type of pedal-retention system. <A> Make sure you don't have any loose shoelaces, if they get caught in the chain it could be very nasty. <S> So just tuck them nicely. <A> I am a convert. <S> Praise the Fixie Lord! <S> Amen! <S> I started out riding thinking <S> , what the hell have I got myself into. <S> But I persisted with it, and at first I was very afraid. <S> So I took it to a park, with grass and simply started to ride in circles to get used to riding without attempting to or thinking I could coast. <S> 4 years later, and I am loving riding my fixie. <S> I have dual brake levers, like on a road bike, as it will keep me from going over the handle-bars. <S> I ride it just like my normal road bike, but when it comes to braking, I found that it simply slows down automatically because of my natural reflexes to slow or stop. <S> I used the brakes of course to slow down more quickly, but I was already slowing down because I "sensed" the danger ahead, and I naturally tried to back pedal or at least give some resistance. <S> The difference compared to a normal road-bike with gears, shocked me. <S> I believe it actually takes you longer to react and slow down, whilst coasting because the only things slowing you are the brakes. <S> On a fixie, you have not only that, but the back-pedaling as well. <S> It's a weird but satisfactory feeling. <S> So to answer your question: <S> Just pedal. <S> Keep pedaling, keep it in your consciousness that you have to pedal continuously, and apply the brakes as necessary. <S> Soon enough it will be embedded into your muscle-memory and you'll know when to pedal and when to slow down. <S> I am even going to say, riding a fixie is the best way to ride a bicycle. <S> Hills - well that's for weirdos! <S> ;)
|
You'll find that reversing pressure on the pedals is a very efficient way of slowing down without using your brakes, but without a way to keep your foot attached to the pedal (cleats, toe straps) it can be pretty easy for your foot to slip off.
|
Do brake hoods come in different sizes? I have a Ribble Sportive Carbon road bike. The brake hoods are much smaller than most other bikes whihc makes them much less comfortable than other bikes (Scott, Specialised etc.) Can I just replace the hoods to make them more comfortable or put larger hoods over the top of my existing hoods? <Q> yep they come in different sized based on what brand the gears are, and what year or model. <S> Campagnolo, Sram and Shimano the 3 main manufacturer's. <S> Looking at the stock Ribble sportive bike <S> i'm guessing you will need these: <S> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/campagnolo-ergopower-replacement-hoods/ or these <S> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/One-23-Replacement-Brake-Hood-Covers-for-Campagnolo-11-speed-WHITE-NEW-/280905184450?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&hash=item416740f4c2 <S> Campagnolo 10 speed, or modern 10 speed replacement hoods <A> The levers are designed with a particular hood shape in mind <S> and I don't recall ever seeing a replacement that was of a different size. <S> Some folks like a deep dip in transition from their bars to their levers; personally I find it much more comfortable to have a flat transition from the bars to the levers, which can be achieved by rotating the bars back <S> while pushing the levers down (which effecively keeps the levers at the same angle). <A> There used to be a velcro wrap that was padded and wrapped around the brake hoods. <S> I believe I got it from Bike Nashbar or Performance shops. <S> It made the brake hood "rest" area larger as well as helped to cushion road vibrations. <S> I don't see them available any longer and could find no other types of replacements online, but I'd say that you could use some "stick to itself velcro that has the "loop" surface on one side of the band and the "hook" surface on the opposite side, so it will stick to itself when wrapped. <S> You could buy longer bulk strips, say 12" long by 3/4" to 1" wide and wrap the brake hoods to the desired size. <S> You may even be able to place some sort of padding on the hoods before wrapping if desired. <S> This would be more cost effective to try before replacing the brake hoods with a different style.
|
Different makes and models of hoods are going to be different sizes, but as far as different sized rubber replacement hoods for a particular make and model of lever, I believe you are out of luck. You may benefit from changing the position and angle of your levers on your bar for extra comfort.
|
Safety Bike Tail Light with Directional Signals I am a urban rider that I ride locally on a regular basis but I am always concerned about fighting with cars on the streets. When I traveled aboard last year I ran into a manufacturer who has a tail lamp that has some unique safety features including: 1) Light-sensing hazard light that comes on when it detects dark surroundings (like going through a tunnel) ; 2) motion-sening break light that comes on when it detects deceleration ; 3) left/right/hazard signal lights that can be controlled by radio frequency using a control panel mounted to the handle bar. This tail lamp I thought was perfect to tackle safety concerns of riding in the city streets.I currently have one that I installed on my bike and I am thinking of importing this product into the country to try to offer other cyclist who may have the same safety concern I had.However, this tail lamp is rather costly compared to what you can find on amazon or ebay these days.Its MSRP is about $90 - $100 per. So I am posting to seek opinion/advise if anyone think this tail lamp would be worth the investment before I decide to take the plunge to import bulk quantities.Any advise is greatly appreciated. Thank you. <Q> All this is very much <S> depends on how good you are as a salesman. <S> Very good salesman can sell sand in a desert and make good living. <S> And I have seen these lights used on the streets. <S> So $90 makes it costly for most of the people, but certainly you would find your customers who would want the set of features you are talking about. <A> I know I wouldn't pay $100 for a rear facing light - Most fatal accidents arrive from the front. <S> All those extra things don't seem useful to me. <S> They are just additional things to break and/or not work as I expect them to work. <S> The only thing I really care about in a rear light is brightness and beam shape. <S> If you are worried about cars recognising that you are signalling to turn get a bright helmet mounted light. <A> I'm afraid that while I am very focused on safety I wouldn't pay anywhere near that. <S> I am more concerned with bright front and back lights and wheel lights for side visibility. <S> I'm less concerned with a light for signalling as with visibility. <A> Steady lights tend to fade into the overall background "noise" of other lights at night. <S> Where as a flashing light makes you much more visible. <S> I would say spend $50 on a good bright set of lights that flash, like these http://ecom1.planetbike.com/3040.html . <S> The turn signals (hand signal) and brake light seem like over kill to me.
|
You get much better visibility from blinking/ flashing lights. I'm not sure what market you are talking about, but in UK you can get very different price range for the lights, top models priced at £144 ($227) .
|
Can too many electolyte supplements be dangerous? I know riding and drinking only water can potentially lead to dangerous Hyponatremia or minor issues like muscle cramping. So I often supplement with electrolyte pills in my water like nuun or gu-brew, especially on long rides in hot weather and when doing multi-day tours. Can too many electrolyte supplements be dangerous? Is there a ratio or formula to follow to make sure I'm getting enough electrolytes, but not too much? <Q> Yes, too many electrolytes can do all sorts of bad things to you. <S> Good article here: http://www.livestrong.com/article/521763-can-you-consume-too-much-electrolytes/ <S> The U.S. Army has done a lot of research, here's probably the most pertinent paper: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10410838 <S> In general, if you are mixing the drinks according to the directions, you won't be too wrong. <S> Most will be a more natural mix if you mix according to directions then dilute 1:1 with water. <S> Happy Riding. <A> If you have kidney disease, though, you should discuss the issue with your docs. <S> Other stuff in some supplements -- herbals, carnitine, etc -- can be harder to eliminate. <S> And the electrolytes, taken in excess, can behave as a diuretic. <A> I'd recommend you read this series of four articles on hydration and electrolytes from The Science of Sport , the blog maintained by Ross Tucker and Johnathan Dugas. <S> They are two South African sport scientists, disciples of Dr. Timothy Noakes, author of Lore of Running and a respected researcher in all things sport physiology. <S> As an indication, he published the first peer-reviewed paper on exercise induced hyponatremia. <S> One , two , three and Four . <S> And five and six . <S> To make a long story short: Hyponatremia is not caused by sweating, but by excessive fluid intake. <S> You should not be worried about what percentage of your body weight you lose to dehydration, but about the osmolarity (concentration of electrolytes) in your bodily fluids is. <S> The thirst mechanism is triggered by changes in the osmolarity. <S> If drinking by thirst, water will do just fine, as you will restore electrolyte levels to normal levels with dietary intake. <S> The link between cramping and dehydration or lowered electrolyte levels is not really supported by field studies. <S> So the most sound advice is to let thirst be your guide, and stop worrying about electrolytes. <A> Here is some information from the nuun website, might help you work out whats best for your body: http://www.nuun.co.uk/pages/faqs-questions
|
Letting thirst guide what you drink will prevent you from taking too few or too many electrolytes. If your kidneys are functioning properly the body will eliminate excess amounts of "electrolytes" -- potassium, sodium, calcium, magnesium, etc -- without much difficulty.
|
Is it safe to use a spacer that reaches above the steerer tube? I have a spacer that reaches from the top of the stem and over the top of the steerer tube. I am able to lock it down with the top cap, but I was wondering if it is safe to ride like this, or if I should get a smaller spacer so that the spacer and top cap is flush with the top of the steerer tube. The picture below illustrates the situation (hopefully). <Q> You actually need something sticking up above the top of your steer tube. <S> It can be either a spacer or the stem itself. <S> This is because the top cap squeezing down onto the stem/spacer stack is what keeps the headset bearings snugly in their cups. <S> If the top cap is flush with the steer tube, there will be play in the headset which is bad. <S> Park Tools has a very detailed set of instructions about headsets that you might want to look over. <S> The following image is from those instructions and shows the amount of space that you need. <S> More than that is acceptable as well, as long as it's not so much that the stem or spacer at the top is barely holding on. <S> In your case, as long as the steer tube protrudes 2/3 of the way through your top spacer, you're probably ok. <S> If you shuffle it around and put the stem on top of the stack, you'll want to make sure that the steer tube is well above the pinch bolts. <A> It would seem to be safe to me as long as the stem is properly installed. <S> The clamp bolts of the stem on the steerer tube in a threadless headset setup are what holds the whole assembly together. <S> Spacers below the stem are required to eliminate vertical play. <S> Spacers above the stem are only required for aesthetics. <S> The only risk I see is that if the bolts on the stem loosen then the cap screw will be at increased risk of shearing and will not provide any real backup security of the assembly, but you shouldn't be relying on that anyway. <A> Totally fine.
|
If the stem was sitting well above the steerer you would be in trouble, but having a spacer with a big gap should be of no concern.
|
handlebar setup/selection to mitigate wrist pain on multiday rides On my first multi-day bike tour the only physical trouble I had after a several long days on my bike was pain in the wrists. My current touring bike setup has drop bars with a long fork. I chose the setup so that I would have a couple different positions to ride in, though in practice I generally keep my hands in palm rests on the brake levers. I'm sure preference can be up to individual preference/physiology, but I was wondering if there were preferred handlebar types/brands/positions/setups known to be good for addressing wrist pain. Alternately, is there an ideal wrist position (or other strategies) I should look for, regardless of gear? Thanks! <Q> The biggest consideration for addressing wrist and hand pain (especially when riding long distances) is by reducing the pressure you're bearing on your wrists. <S> Aggressive riding postures put excess pressure on your arms/hands/wrists/elbows for the benefit of aerodynamics and better advantage on your pedal strokes. <S> For the majority of cyclists unconcerned with such things (tourists, especially) comfort and rideability are more worth the effort. <S> The traditional KOPS (knee over pedal spindle) has been the go to rule for adjusting saddle fore-and-aft for quite a while. <S> Lots of people find it totally satisfactory, however, everyone is built differently and quite often different riding styles necessitate different setups. <S> Moving one's weight back onto their sit bones and feet (two parts of the body that aren't as sensitive to bearing weight) will in turn reduce pressure on your wrists. <S> Your saddle needs to be adjusted for the appropriate height and then set back a bit. <S> The idea is that when you squat (sans bicycle), your hips have to move back to balance your upper body. <S> In the above diagram, you can imagine the effect of moving your saddle back as being a similar shift in weight. <S> To compensate for that more upright posture, you may need to change your stem and spacer orientation and setup. <S> The idea is to bring the bars up and back (with some room for fine tuning.) <S> Most touring bicycles are fitted with tall stems that enable you to achieve this posture. <S> If you're refitting a bike, you may need to buy a new stem or some spacers. <S> Many people will suggest adding padded bar tape or thick gloves. <S> While this is a great way to relieve some of the roughness and pressure, no amount of padding will make supporting your upper body all day comfortable. <S> The idea is to use your legs and rump to get you from place to place. <S> Also, these sorts of issues can certainly be caused by medical complications (carpal tunnel syndrome, especially), so consult with a doctor if things start to deteriorate or worsen. <S> Further resources can be found at SheldonBrown.com and RivBike.com (and many others.) <A> Having your position correct isn't always just a matter of having certain handlebars. <S> I have a custom road bike, and recently did a fit session for another bike. <S> It can be pricey, but if you plan on riding long distances, for many years, it might be worth it! <S> Try asking around with your bikey friends for recommendations on fitters. <A> You might try adding clip on aero bars. <S> Not so much to make you faster, but to allow the option of using your bones to hold you up. <S> Aim for creating a 90 degree angle in your arm at the elbow joint to have the pads of the aero bar support your upper body via the Humerus bone (connecting elbow to shoulder). <S> This will allow you to rest your wrists and use your skeleton for support. <S> You must be very alert when riding in this position because your hands are no where near the brakes or shifters, but for long open straight stretches you can give other parts of your body a bit of recovery. <S> Also, this aero position will feel odd/squirly at first <S> but many can ride all day in this position, it just takes a little to get used to. <A> Touring/trekking/butterfly bars! <S> (Also called "randonneuring" bars, as in a comment above.) <S> All the hand positions ever; set the bar at whatever angle makes you happiest. <S> Here's the set (from Velo Orange) that I'm getting on my new bike:
|
You can angle the aero bars a bit more upright for comfort, experiment a bit to find the right position for you. Consider splurging for a fit session with a qualified bike fitter.
|
How to cope with boredom whilst cycle touring? I went on a long cycle tour before and I found myself getting bored whilst I was riding at some points. E.g. on monotonous main roads, and areas with not much scenery or people to stop and talk to, or when I got bored of music I was listening to. Does anyone have any advice about how to cope with boredom and in general improve the experience whilst touring.. I like to meet as many people as possible, because I found before that it was the people that made my journey interesting. <Q> As I may have given away in the comments, I'm not a fan of sensory deprivation when you're as vulnerable as you are when you're on a bike. <S> I don't think there are many scenarios where not being able to hear as good as you possibly can is safe on a bike — but you may not agree and safety really isn't the point of this answer. <S> My belief is that when you listen to music, you are isolating yourself . <S> Same applies to an audiobook or a podcast. <S> You may as well go the whole hog and watch a movie while cycling on a turbo trainer. <S> The moment you ride with music , the music has become your concentration. <S> Throw the music away and engage with your scenery. <S> Listen to birds, weave potholes, count squirrels... <S> Whatever you do, just enjoy the majesty, the unimaginable effort that went into creating what you're cycling past. <S> If you can't do that (and can't swap squirrels for the homeless, potholes for bullets — I have no idea what your area is like!) <S> change your route <S> so you're going somewhere that does interest you. <S> Otherwise, as I said before, you might as well be on a trainer doing something that does entertain you. <A> This may depend on what you enjoy doing. <S> But if you need to actively do stuff, how about: <S> focus on the weather, <S> (I'm less keen on this, as I like a quiet cycle) <S> give yourself challenges, for example x minutes for each of the next 10 miles, or stay at this speed but focus on reducing heart rate <S> use counts - if you simultaneously count down miles to next stop, number of pedal rotations and number of breaths you will find it very hard to think of anything else - you can't get bored while focusing like that <S> think on challenges at work, and possible solutions compose songs <S> - I do a lot of this, using my cadence rate as a beat <A> If you already have an earpiece (or headphones) or are comfortable with such a device, you could try listening to some podcasts, talk radio, or audiobooks. <S> However, I think this wouldn't work so well on the road. <S> Also, some TV shows, like certain sitcoms, work well with the audio only. <S> You miss some of the visual jokes, but if you've seen the episode before, those can be ok as well. <A> Try doing some intervals. <S> Example: try doing 3 x 5 min efforts each hour. <S> (Or 4 x 5 min, 3 x 10 min etc.) <S> Don't go too hard though -- just enough to liven things up -- you need to conserve your energy when touring. <A> You say you like to meet people.... <S> so there's your start point. <S> Plan a route where you have a village every four or five miles if possible, and be prepared to stop. <S> When you feel like it, stop for some food or a drink, visit a museum, a church or something. <S> The four or five mile gap is long enough to have a decent ride too, especially if you can pick a scenic, traffic-free route. <S> Don't budget to ride too far each day - if you end up thinking "I've got 20 miles to go and only an hour of daylight left" then that will force you to concentrate on the riding and not on the experience. <S> (For my visit over to France I left myself with only about 50km on my last half-day, so visited the museum at Arromanches, plus the one at Pegasus Bridge, before I hopped on the ferry. <S> Great visits the both <S> if you like your history.) <S> You're going to China <S> aren't you? <S> There must be a million things to see there, the opportunity of a lifetime if you ask me. <S> Incidentally the last thing I would do is to wear earphones etc. <S> unless you're confident you're not going to meet any traffic. <S> Its just a safety thing for me. <S> But to each their own...
|
For me, the very act of exercise will stop me being bored, and cycling wins on so many fronts. You're only going to enjoy the ride as much as you enjoy the music. When I'm on my trainer, I like to watch TV shows and movies. on a good day feel the breeze watch the scenery talk to others in your group Get yourself onto Google and make a list of things to visit. But by the same token its worth having some places "in reserve" too - if you're going well so have time for a detour.
|
Is there such thing as a freewheel that doesn't click? The clicking sound of the freewheel on my singlespeed when it's coasting is annoying for me, so I flipped over my back wheel and rode fixed for a few months in blissful silence. But having to pedal all the time even when going downhill, over bumps and around corners, was probably even more annoying - so today I am flipping it back again to the freewheel. Then I wondered, is there any such thing as a silent freewheel hub that I can buy? If so, what's the search term I'm looking for? <Q> As already said, Shimano used to manufacture Silient Clutch rear hub. <S> But that has been stopped a few years ago, so if you manage to source one - you are lucky man. <S> I used to have one of them <S> and it was truly silent. <S> It was heavier than standard shimano LX hub, but it was silent and with instant engagement. <S> Also I used Chris King hubs. <S> If you put a lot of grease in their mechanism - they also become silent. <S> Unless you ride Hope hubs -) <S> I've heard about Stealth hubs - they are claimed to be silent, but I never had a chance to try them out. <S> You might as well read this thread about silent hubs for further information. <A> Police / Law Enforcement bikes often have a quiet freehub. <S> This Cannondale Law Enforcement bicycle refers to it as a "Silent Clutch Rear Hub" and specifically mentions "R085" as a model number <S> (further googling suggests it's a Shimano). <A> <A> I don't know about other bikes, but in BMX there is a type of hub called a freecoaster - you can coast backwards and forwards without pedaling, and it is silent. <S> Apparently they have them for mountain bikes as well. <A> Shimano R085, 8/9 speed, 36H $100 QBike.com2595 N. Federal Highway , Fort Lauderdale, FL 33305 800-390-2122 http://store.qbike.com/shimano-hub-rear-fh-r085-36-cl-8-9s-black-bulk.html <S> this is the only thing i've been able to find. <S> been searching since new years 2013. <A> Bought a pair of wheels from Neuvation . <S> I have to say, their hub is dead silent. <A> I seem to remember a hub type that used ball-bearings in a tapered recess rather than pawls, as you pedalled the balls tightened (oh er) and on the overrun <S> they release. <S> This is of course silent. <S> Or did I dream this? <S> Edit. <S> I knew I was awake! <S> It's called a slipper clutch . <S> Further Edit: The link above is for a specific implementation of a bearing clutch referred to as a slipper clutch. <S> It is used with motorcycle clutches and used to prevent skipping/locking of the rear wheel when an aggressive downshift would result in too much engine braking <S> - it basically de-clutches the engine when the plate holding the bearing clutch is over-driven, causing lateral movement and so forcing the bearings to press against the clutch mechanism. <S> In general ball (and roller) <S> bearing clutches (free wheels) operate by having bearings sitting in a series of ramps on the inner driven race, and lightly sprung against the smooth outer race (which accepts the drive). <S> As the inner race rotates forward, the bearing, which is already lightly pressed into the narrow face of the ramp and against the outer race, locks, and so engages the drive. <S> When the wheel over-runs the pressure on the bearing is reduced as it is pushed out of the narrow channel, and so disengages the drive (as would back pedalling) <S> The main advantage of such a clutch is that it is silent as there is no ratcheting, and since there are no dogs, the effect is instant, with engagement at any position around the outer race. <S> It should be noted that the greater the pressure from the drive, the greater the locking of the drive and driven races. <S> Dirt can cause these devices to lock and so become a fixed hub! <A> Short answer is get used to it. <S> The clicking of freehubs/freewheels is like a fine wine- <S> it's an acquired taste. <S> That said, the drier the hub is of lubricant, the louder it will become. <S> You can squirt some grease in there to quieten the freewheel down if it's getting dry. <S> The heavier the grease, the quieter it will make the clicking. <S> Some freehubs actually require a very light grease due to the low spring tension acting against the pawls; too heavy of a grease will actually stop them from catching when you pedal forward. <S> However, I'm not aware of a freewheel with this problem. <S> I'm sure some brands of freewheels are quieter than others, but I can't make any suggestions for you in that department. <S> Finally, it's important to note that freehubs and freewheels are two different creatures, which is why I edited your original question slightly. <S> Explaining the differences is a fairly easy but different conversation. <A> Check out the Stealth Hub from True Precision Components; as opposed to using pawls these hubs use a roller clutch. <S> They are completely silent when the coast, the engagement is instantaneous and the cost is astronomical ;) <S> I recently built myself a new rear wheel for my singlespeed mountain bike using one of these and really enjoy coasting in silence. <S> http://www.trueprecisioncomponents.com/ <S> Although, now that I think about it, the bike is probably spaced at 120mm; it could be spread out to 130 to use a standard road hub, or axle spacers could be added to the BMX version. <S> and I've found new wheels thru J+B imports that are build with silent clutch hubs. <A> My 1996 Trek 950 has a silent clutch. <S> Maybe some other year models do as well... <S> Maybe the 1997 950 and maybe some years of the 520. <S> If anybody has info on how to overhaul the hub without damaging it (R085) please let me know.
|
Single speed hubs with coaster brakes don't click, at least I have never seen one that clicks over here in Europe. Pretty much with most of the freewheels, if you put a lot of thick grease in them, you'll silent them for some time. As for silent clutch being dead, it would appear not as it's featured on Shimano's Disc version of the Nexus 3speed
|
Do I need a separate dishing tool for building wheels with park tool TS-2.2 truing stand? I'm trying to get started with some wheelbuilding. I've got a Park Tool TS-2.2 truing stand. Can I just rely on the calipers to provide a guide for centering the rim and dishing rear wheels or will I need separate dishing tool? <Q> A properly aligned TS-2 truing stand will show dish, as well as alignment. <S> You rarely need additional adjustment after using it. <S> However, if the stand is out of alignment, you may need to re-dish the wheel. <S> The best way to ensure that the wheel is properly dished, and thus an accurate alignment check, is with a dishing tool. <S> Bottom line, if you can afford the TS-2, a dishing tool shouldn't be a major expense, and is worth the cost, even if you only use it as a final, double check of the truing stand. <A> As long as you verify the centering you don't need to do separate dishing. <S> You will need the centering gauge: http://www.parktool.com/product/centering-gauge-1554-1 <S> Do read the instructions and get comfortable making the centering adjustment. <S> It's not difficult. <S> Biggest thing to pay attention to is to SLOWLY lower the gauge into place. <S> Happy Riding! <S> (and Wheel Building!) <A> It wouldn't hurt to buy an inexpensive dishing gauge for double-checking your builds. <S> I have an old Performance one that would likely cost about $15 today, and it's perfectly adequate for this duty. <S> However, you can get the same double-check by simply flipping the wheel around in the truing stand. <A> As said here before: A correctly aligned TS2 will be sufficient. <S> Beside using a dishing tool or a TS2 centering gauge, it is also possible to check the TS2 centering by flipping the wheel around. <S> If the TS2 is centered, you will have a symmetric behavior of the gap to the rim. <S> I.e. if you had a 1mm gap on the left while the right gap is closed and turn the wheel around, you will have a 1mm gap on the right and a closed gap on the left. <S> Be sure that the wheel does not have any axial run-out or/and make sure that you compare the gap at the exact same position of the wheel (i.e. by marking a spoke). <S> If the gap is asymmetric and the TS2 needs to be centered just lower the larger gap by 1/2 times the gap difference. <S> You can repeat this procedure after having the wheel centered with the so centered TS2 stand. <S> Then, you center the wheel again if you needed to re-adjust the TS2 centering and so on. <S> Finally you should have no gap on both sides for the flipped and the non-flipped position of the wheel.
|
The easiest and most accurate check for TS-2 alignment is a properly dished wheel.
|
Replacing the Trek Lime I purchased a Trek Lime for my mother a few years ago. Unfortunately, it has now been stolen and I need to replace it. She has terrible arthritis so any bike that would require her hands to do more than hold on would be out of the question. I've considered buying a cruiser and having an automatic transmission such as the nexus hub installed, but I'm just not familiar enough with automatic transmissions to be sure this is even possible. To complicate matters, I'm working out of the country for the next year and a half so I have to rely on others. Does anyone have any suggestions? BTW--I'm not willing to spend thousands of dollars on it. <Q> If she liked the Lime, why not look at the second hand market. <S> Get one and have it serviced by a good bike shop and off she goes... <S> Edit : <S> Quick 1 minute search and <S> I found <S> This - why go second hand..... <A> One option that I really recommend you, at least to consider, is a recumbent bike, specially one with a low crank and a relatively upright position. <S> With such a bike, not only the hands get much more relaxed, but also the butt benefit from a wide padded area for support, which is shared a bit with the lower back. <S> For a senior lady I doubt there could be anything much better than this on two wheels (there are trike versions) <S> BUT there are some caveats: <S> They are heavy; <S> They are cumbersome to manoeuver in tight spaces; They require generous space for storage and to get in and out of house. <S> A garage would be ideal; <A> SRAM make an auto internally geared hub these days. <S> I'm sure you can find a bike that comes with one, with some deft Googling, or buy a cheepy cruiser and add the new hub to it.
|
I have ridden a clone of the Easy Rider similar to this , and although I was very skeptical about the cumbersome looks of the bike, the comfort and ease are unbelieavable (to the point of asking myself why have I been torturing myself with regular bikes for so long).
|
Are velocity A23 rims suitable for building a wheelset for a 29er Mountain bike? I'm was looking to build a new wheelset that I can use on my rigid Karate Monkey 29er using either cyclocross or Trekking tires for gravel / dirt road riding and 29er tires for singletrack (mostly cross country riding). I need a rim I can use with either disc or v-brakes, depending on my setup at the time. My weight tends to be around 190lbs. I also tend to be really hard on my wheels and have bent rims on my 29er before. I'm not really concerned about tubeless compatibility. I planned to use this rim, the velocity A23, since it seems to be recommended for cyclocross on velocity's website. It seems to meet all the specs superfically. I can use it with rim brakes, it's relatively light, and it's 23mm wide, which should be good for wider 29er tires while still being suitable for 32mm+ cyclocross tires. It comes with the appropriate amount of drillings for 32 spoke mountain bike hubs. It also doesn't seem that it would be too weak for disc brakes since velocity themselves offers them in a build as a road disc wheelset. Would the velocity A23 rim be suitable for this wheelset build? Are there any factors besides tire compatibility, spoke hole count matching the hubs, and brake compatibility I need to be concerned about? <Q> I've briefly ridden A23's on a road bike, and while I think they'd be OK for cyclocross <S> I did find them a bit flexy (I am ~220lbs). <S> I've spent significant time on the delgado cross rims, and I found the A23's noticeably less stiff. <S> I think you'd want something a bit beefier for singletrack riding, especially if you are hard on wheels. <S> Guess this all depends on your weight and trails you ride though <S> - I'm a pretty heavy guy and ride in eastern PA where we have a lot of rocks/roots. <S> but I guess I could be wrong. <S> If sticking with Velocity, maybe the Dyad would be more up your alley? <S> They look a bit like A23's on steroids. <A> If you can find a 700c Salsa Delgado Cross rim, these will work fantastic for this application. <S> Designed as a burly cross rim but was one of the early 29er rims, works great. <A> Based on my experience with A23's (a couple posts down from yours) I'd find out first of all if you can mount your favorite tires on without too much trouble. <S> (I know there're other factors to consider, but I had to go back to my old rims . <S> . . <S> and that was for road tires.)
|
In your situation I'd probably want more of a mountain bike rim that's skinny enough for the cross tires than a road rim that might be strong enough to stand up to mountain biking, but imagine the lack of good mountain bike options with v-brake compatibility does make the road rims more attractive (along with their light weight). A lot of people seem to like the mavic open pros as a 29er rim and they don't look much beefier than the A23's - I always assumed these folks weighed 120 lbs and were riding really smooth singletrack
|
Cross tires on a road bike I want to buy a road bike for commuting, fitness, leisure, etc. and not for professional racing. However, because I live in a "wet" country, I would like to be able to change the tires into cross tires. As far as I know, standard road tires are 25mm and standard cross tires are 30mm. Are there any entry level (meaning less than 2-3K) road bikes that have the frame/fork/brake clearance for the larger wheels? <Q> The main thing to watch out for is the brakes, if the comes with V-Brakes or Cantilever brakes, you should be able to run wider tires and fenders. <S> Typical CX tires are 32-35mm and typical road from 23-28. <S> Visit your local bike shop and look at a few options. <A> I would look into Raleigh's Endurance and Cyclocross bikes. <S> Both have road geometries with plenty of tire clearance, with many very affordable options. <S> Also, if your outside the US, canyon has some great options <S> But here's a full list of 2017 Bikes with road geometries and at least 35mm clearance. <A> Most road bikes in the "endurance" genre that use canti brakes can typically support up to a 28mm tire. <S> There are some some decent touring tires at that size such as the Conti Ride Tour. <S> It has some tread on it to imrpove grip in wet conditions. <S> The best bet would be, however, to go with a cross or "gravel" bike, as those can typically accommodate larger tires. <S> The Raleigh Willard or Tamland series are decent enough, and the price is right on those.
|
The caliper style brakes found on many road bikes will not accommodate the wider CX tires. There are many options under 2-3K, You could even look at cyclocross bikes as many are under the 2-3K in the US. A buddy bought a Kona "Jake The Snake" last year and is a very nice bike and under the 2-3K.
|
What's best engine to motorize a road bike I have a road bike I use for commuting and I'm about to move 20km further out, so I'm considering fitting a tiny engine to it to assist my ride to work. However, where I live I have a restriction - the maximum power allowed is 200 watts (about 1/4 HP). I've seen some kits , but they have huge engines (beats me why they have to be so big). Further, I'd prefer a diesel engine (no spark/glow plugs) and better economy. Some brief research has shown that a tiny (5cc or so) diesel engine should be able to produce about 200 watts. A larger one could be de-tuned. There are model aircraft diesel engines of this size, but they're quite expensive. I've been told a "brushcutter motor" (small two-stroke) could be an option, but they are noisy, smoky and smelly. I'm not worried about how to deliver the power to the wheel - I'm trying to pick the power plant first then make it work. Has anyone got any suggestions for: diesel engine very small (200 watts max) not expensive Edit: My bike is a Focus Planet TR 2.0 (2012) , which has internal hub gears , so the solution can't involve replacing the rear hub. It also has disk brakes front and back, so replacing the front hub may be problematic (not sure). Regarding range, I will live about 30km away from my CBD and batteries seems to have about a 60km range. Also, recharging takes a while, but filling a tiny tank takes seconds. Also, I seriously doubt that the pollution created by a tiny 1cc engine exceeds that pollution created by the recharging process of burning coal and pushing the electricity through all the transformers and switches between the power station turbines and a bike battery. For these reasons, I'm still seeking an internal combustion solution. <Q> If you google "bike hub motor" and take a look at the images, you'll get the idea. <S> I think these ones are ideal since they require minimal changes to the overall bike structure, allowing for normal riding if the motor is not working, and they don't burn evil oil: you just plug the bike to the wall and that's it. <S> The spoked ones should be adequate for building a front wheel with a regular road bike rim. <S> Hope <S> this helps <A> MY first thought was MTFU and get fitter pedalling further. <S> It might not be as hard as you think once you get used to it. <S> However, for a 20k commute, definitely go with an electric hub motor. <S> Loads available off the shelf. <S> Easy to fit and use, very economical and reliable with low/no maintenance. <S> Also nice and quiet. <A> These guys make small petrol engines for bicycles. <S> I've never seen a Diesel one though. <S> The advantage here is they supply everything you need. <S> Drivetrain, engine, ignition. <S> The lot. <S> I'm currently in Bondi, Australia and I <S> see a few buzzing around. <S> They look like a lot of fun. <S> With these tiny engines economy isn't going to change hugely from Petrol to Diesel.
|
There are some bike hubs containing an electrical motor inside.
|
Could I switch tires on an MTB to tires with less friction if I mostly use the MTB in a city environment? I thought MTBs were OK to use in the city but the friction from the tires seem to hold the bike back more than other tires would. I got a mountain bike (Scott) and it's less than optimal on flat city roads. It's like comparing dubbed tired with tires that are not dubbed(?) So I'm thinking of switching tires to flatter tires making it easier to pedal the bike in a city environment. Would this be a good or bad idea? Should I instead just get a regular city bike for use in the city? <Q> Schwalbe Big Apples are a popular choice -- I use their 26x2.0 tires on my mountain bike. <S> They roll well on asphalt, and are quite functional on packed dirt and gravel. <S> They're not suitable for loose dirt/gravel, rocks, roots, etc, you'll need a knobby mountain bike tire for those. <S> The only real downside to this plan: If you intend to ride your bike in the city, and often ride trails as well, you'll quickly tire (pun intended) of switching between your mountain tires and your city tires. <S> If you reach that point, you might consider buying a separate set of wheels and keeping the mountain tires mounted on one and the city tires on the other. <A> Yes, tires with a less knobby tread will be faster on pavement. <S> You may also lose some efficiency due to your suspension fork as well. <S> If you can lock out the suspension on your fork, then that would probably improve the ride quality as well. <S> Do you need another bike? <S> No, but other bikes may be better suited to city riding. <A> Absolutely. <S> Hence the term "city slickers". <S> Slicks on the road will mean a faster, quieter, soother and more comfy ride. <S> It also depends on how long your commute is & if you like going off-road on the weekends.
|
If you don't plan on riding the mountain bike off road, you might consider another style of bike, however many people are totally happy using a mountain bike in the city as their primary bike. You can certainly switch to a more appropriate tire.
|
Why do current, entry-level shimano rear derailers have large-diameter pulleys? I have seen (and recently bought) entry-level rear derailers from Shimano (Tourney for MTB, 2300 for road bike), and I keep wondering why they are making these parts with such large pulleys. I don't think this make the parts cheaper to produce, since large size means more material, and I can't see why customers would find this more attractive or adequate than the smaller-sized ones (unless customers would prefer more expensive models because they DON'T HAVE large pulleys...). Also, I imagine there might be advantages to larger pulleys (less chain link rotation, less wear, slower pulley rotation), but the reason why entry-levels are big, while more expensive models continue to be the same old size, is very unclear to me, not to say arbitrary. <Q> There are 2 versions of derailleurs which come with extra large pulleys. <S> The first, which is what is being discussed here, are the low end mega-range compatible derailleurs. <S> A mega-range freewheel has one distinct characteristic which requires compatible derailleurs to have very large cogs. <S> As seen in the image below, there is a large tooth count difference between the second to largest cog and the largest cog. <S> If you use a smaller pulley on the derailleur, you may be able to get it to shift, but it will be clunky and loud at best. <S> At worst, it will trap the chain against the side of the largest cog, and refuse to shift into that gear at all. <S> The second type of large pulley derailleur is decidedly not low end. <S> The Berner Carbon Fiber derailleur upgrades are designed to reduce resistance on the drive-train by decreasing the severe chain bends associated with smaller cogs. <S> While expensive, my experience has been an average 10 watt reduction in energy used by the cyclist, with no apparent loss of efficiency in shifting, or in anything else other than the cyclist's wallet. <A> The main reason for the larger pulleys is that you don't need to make them as strong. <S> More teeth helps to spread the load. <S> A small pulley is lighter and can aid shifting, but needs to be made from stronger material <S> so you don't shear/wear teeth as much, and so you don't wear the bushings as fast (as @alex commented) <A> Low end drive-trains tend to have a bigger range from smallest gear to largest. <S> Meaning the biggest cog in the cog set on the rear wheel tends to be much bigger. <S> that means there is extra chain length needed to cover all the possible cog/chain ring combinations. <S> (aka the gear you are in) <S> The larger pulley wheels take up extra chain length when not needed.
|
This large difference in size requires a large derailleur pulley, to make sure that the chain has cleared the teeth on the last cog, in order to shift into this gear.
|
Are deep rims more durable for a heavy rider? Since I weigh quite a lot (~115kg), and ride on bad roads with many holes and cracks, I am looking for rims that would be able to cope with bad conditions without getting out of true or breaking. My tires are 37x622, maybe I will go to one size wider in the winter. My first instinct is that deeper rims should be more durable. Am I right? Are there some down sides to deep rims? Are they equally easy to true and put tires on? For instance, which one would be better choice in my situation, DXT 337 or DXT 221 <Q> I'd actually lean toward a shallower rim, but the important bits are going with a high spoke count and either 3x or 4x pattern (both drive and non-drive sides). <S> With a deeper rim, you are changing the angle in the cross patterns and reducing the length. <S> This means that the spoke has to deflect more to handle the cross. <S> This is more noticeable with really deep rims, with the slight differences in depth for the rims you listed, the difference would not be that much. <S> I've built some race wheels and training wheels for a customer that's on the heavier side and competes in Ironmans. <S> I've built the fronts with 3x both sides and the rears with either 3x both or 4x drive with 3x non-drive and haven't had any problems. <S> With your size and the road conditions, you will still need/want to true your wheels on a fairly regular basis, they will go out of true. <S> If you get in the habit of giving them a quick check and true on the bike, you'll soon get where you are comfortable maintaining them. <S> Happy Riding! <A> To elaborate on Ken Hiatts answer: look at tandem wheelsets. <S> A tandem team can easily be 150-200+kg. <S> However, tandem wheels will typically have rim profiles similar to regular bikes. <S> However, they'll have much beefier hubs, and more spokes, which is what you'll want to do too for an optimum wheelset. <A> Since you asked about deep section rims in particular, I'd like to address why deep section rims are more durable in general and tend to stay true. <S> When a wheel rolls, the part directly directly above the riding surface is deflected inward (toward the hub) slightly. <S> When a spoke becomes slack, it can loosen - and that's the most common way wheels go out of true. <S> The strongest, most durable wheels have deep section rims, lots of spokes (think 32 and up) along with a well designed hub. <S> Their butted spokes are uniformly tight and have quite a bit of tension. <S> The spokes also need to be stress relieved during the building process. <S> Lastly, all else being equal, smaller wheels will be stronger than larger wheels, so if it's an option and makes sense for your riding goals, you may want to consider MTB wheels. <S> If I were you, I'd look at Velocity deep V rims with at least 32 spokes, brass nipples, and something like DT Swiss Competition spokes. <S> I hear Wheelsmith and Sapim also make some excellent spokes. <S> Find a really good, experience wheel builder. <S> My answer is based on 1) <S> my 30 years of riding bikes included loaded touring tandems and lots of commuting/utility riding 2) building a number of wheels over the years and never having to true any of them even once 3) the advice and analysis given by Jobst Brandt (an engineer) in his excellent book "The Bicycle Wheel" and, for what it's worth, 4) <S> I was a mechanical engineer myself for a number of years.
|
The reason a deep section wheel is helpful is that the deeper cross section is much stiffer, i.e. harder to deflect, than a rim with a shallow depth. If it is deflected enough, the spokes in the deflected section may become slack. Peter White Cycles makes wheels that he guarantees.
|
Refitting Cable to Rear Derailleur Whilst riding recently the cable slipped from the clamp on the rear derailleur. I'm attempting to affect repairs by re-clamping the cable. However by pulling the cable tight I have lost the bottom 2 gears. If I then slacken the cable just a small amount I gain the bottom gears again but lose the top gear. I can't seem to reach a balance. This is the first time I've had to fit a cable to a derailleur, are there any tips? Am I potentially doing something wrong? Do I have to be in a certain gear before attempted to re-attach the cable to get the correct balance? <Q> Are you sure the cable is clamped correctly? <S> Having that wrong can change the amount the derailleur moves for a given amount of pull (in fact it's sometimes done deliberately to use mismatched components - http://sheldonbrown.com/drivetrain-mixing.shtml#alternate ).Otherwise <S> , make sure the cable moves smoothly through the housing and that the hanger isn't bent, then work through: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailler-adjustments-derailleur and/or http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html <A> This might happen if there is friction when the cable moves in the housing. <S> The definitive "sign" of it is whan <S> you shift to larger cogs two or three times in a row (say, three consecutive shifts to a larger sprocket), <S> but when you shift back the derailer doesn't move. <S> Then if you keep releasing shifts, eventually the cable is lose enough for the spring to pull it. <S> But then the cable is still "in the wrong position", and if you shift up again the derailer won't move since only the cable slack will be compensated. <S> I don't know if this is the problem, but <S> if you have to do "double shifts" and can't get to the smaller cog without releasing too much cable (thus losing larger cogs), then I'd bet the cable or the housing have at least one frayed spot. <S> Other possibilities would be a bent derailer or derailer hanger, or the cable is wrongly attached as described by Armb. <S> Hope this helps! <A> My recommendation is to dismantle the cable and housing, clean and lubricate with dense teflon grease, or replace with a new one if necessary. <S> Then use one of the hundreds of videos on youtube on how to setup the rear derailleur, normally they all start by the smallest sprocket in the cogset...
|
This happens because when you shift up, you stretch the cable with a rigid lever (the shifter lever itself), but when you release the cable, due to friction, the spring in the derailer is not enough to pull the cable.
|
Will an 1/8' chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32' chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup? Will an 1/8" chain and cogs wear slower than 3/32" chain and cogs for single speed / fixed gear setup? What about using an 1/8' chain mismatched on 3/32" chainring and cogs? <Q> I don't remember where, but I read once that <S> because a 3/32" chain is more flexible laterally than a 1/8" chain, it is more tolerant of imperfect chainlines. <S> This makes sense to me, but I haven't seen any numbers to support it. <S> So with an imperfect chainline you might see faster wear with 1/8". <S> I suspect the difference in wear is imperceptible, especially with a steel cog. <A> Just from personal experience 1/8" chains are less forgiving to any misalignment with the chain-ring and cog. <S> You can really feel it (and hear it) if you place a 1/8th chain over an 3/32" chain-ring/cog. <S> Constant use in that manner leads to things breaking, even if it's just your sanity over the clicks and pops you can hear as you pedal. <S> I've only ever broken one chain-ring <S> and it was a 3/32". <S> In short, a perfectly set chain setup at 1/8" I believe would outlive an 3/32" setup. <S> Or at least has so far on my fixed gears. <A> Whilst this may be the case, it will all depend on the quality of the products involved ie cog, chainring and chain. <A> Your chain line is very important in a situation like this. <S> Also if you use a flip flop rear hub your wheel has to be symmetrical.... <S> So when you flip it around it does not affect the chain line. <S> For my chain line I use a Phil Wood BB which gives the most adjustment. <S> I run a 1/8 crank (Paul Royal Flush). <S> 1/8 chain. <S> 1/8 Phil Wood track cog <S> but I use a WI free wheel cog which is 3/32. <S> They are both 18 teeth so when I flip the hub the tension is pretty closeHope this helpsChuckmeister
|
The combination of a 1/8" chain, imperfect chainline, and an aluminum 3/32" cog would probably be where you'd see the most increase in wear because you add a slight bit of play where the chain interfaces with the cog, but I still doubt you'd notice much additional wear. However, because 3/32" are more flexible, they seem to keep quiet and hide your misalignment issue. I personally think that the wear issue is not as simple as one size chain being better than the other.
|
Chain replaced but bottom jockey wheel "jumps"? I have a 10speed MTB and replace the chain using a powerlink. Now the bottom pulley wheel makes like a jumping kind of movement. It is not smooth. Also when in my small ring in front I get chain suck. It sucks!! I never get chain suck :( <Q> The jumping is either chain friction (ie the links are not moving smoothly against each other) or links catching on teeth. <S> Fagan.co.za has a useful article on chain suck. <S> To summarise his points, the most common causes of chain suck are: <S> Mud causing extra friction <S> New chain with a worn chain ring Worn chain with a worn chain ring Worn chain with a new chain ring <S> Because the chain loads up unevenly on teeth on the bottom of the chain ring you get high friction, and the chain won't disengage properly from the teeth. <S> First up - clean your chain and lubricate it properly. <S> If the problem continues, the simplest fix is to replace the chain ring, but you could also get your teeth reprofiled to reduce the friction. <A> I'd also check for stiff links in the chain. <S> Details of how to repair these can be found here <A> The other answers are most likely the correct solution (stiff link I'm guessing based on chain suck). <S> But just in case you are using the term Powerlink in a generic way... <S> Wipperman chains call their link "connex" and is directional, if youput it on backward it can cause these jumps. <S> The Wipperman Connexlinkages are reusable. <S> SRAM chains link is called a Powerlink and allows for easy connectionand removal, but is not re-usable. <A> Small amounts of hook just cause the jockey to jump, but larger amounts cause suck. <S> A rear sprocket can be cured of chain suck by replacing the chain, but the opposite is true for the front sprocket, since it's being "peeled" by the weak tension of the derailer.
|
If you're getting chain suck on the front sprocket after replacing the chain then almost certainly the front sprocket is "hooked".
|
Can I use WD-40 on my bike? Is WD-40 really bad to apply on bikes? I was told so but still see people doing that. Also I saw WD-40 launching their new products of bike lubricant and degreaser. Did anybody try those? <Q> WD-40 is mostly a solvent with a very light lubricant mixed in. <S> It's great for getting stuck parts moving again. <S> When you spray it on, the solvent dislodges whatever gunk may be causing the part to stick and then evaporates, leaving a light lubricant behind. <S> This will allow the previously stuck part to move again. <S> The reason it is generally not considered a good bicycle lubricant is because it is a light lubricant. <S> It's just fine for household items like door hinges, which aren't exposed to weather and don't get moved a couple hundred times a minute. <S> But the lubricant is not thick enough to adhere to rapidly moving bike parts for any length of time, especially when you add a little bit of road grit and/or rain. <S> You will notice in the answers and comments on the aforelinked question, and this one , that whether or not this is good practice is highly debatable. <S> Some people will use WD-40 as a cleaner and degreaser followed by a bicycle-specific lubricant, with or without a cleaning inbetween, depending on personal preferences. <S> I don't have any experience with their bicycle-specific products, but they're a solid company that's been in the business of cleaning and lubricating mechanical parts for a long time. <S> They also make Lava soap and 3-in-1 Oil, a product that was originally designed as a bicycle lubricant (although they did acquire both of those from other companies). <S> I actually didn't know until I read this question that they were making bicycle-specific lubricants now. <S> Given their history and the number of patents that they have to draw ideas and develop from, I'm certainly willing to give them a shot. <S> The worst case scenario is that I have to clean it off and go back to my previous products. <A> WD-40 (original) can be used as a de-greaser on bike parts. <S> It is a bit harsher than other bike specific de-greasers, or common house hold degreasers (like Simple Green ) that are often used by bike mechanics but essentially does the same thing. <S> Keep it mind that it is <S> NOT <S> a lubricant, but a de-greaser. <S> After using any de-greaser you want to wash the area with soap and water and then apply a lubricant. <S> I have used the WD-40 bike specific lubricants and don't have any complaints. <S> The wet lube held up well in a few nasty cyclocross races, and the dry lube is what I've been using on my "indoor trainer" bike. <S> They have thrown a lot of money into the launch of these products over the last few months and I expect that with this type of support, their products will become a household name in the bike space in the coming years. <A> The "W" in WD-40 stands for water and the "D" stands for displacement, and the 40 stands for the 40th. <S> attempt at being successful with the product. <S> WD-40 <S> doesn't really lubricate much of anything. <S> It's actually a de-greaser, so it will remove any lubricant from bicycle chains, cables and other pivot joints. <S> It's also said to "rust proof" items, but probably because of it's ability to displace water which commonly causes rust to form. <S> I haven't tried any of the new products yet. <S> They have a bike "degreaser", a bike "foaming wash" and two different chain lubricants, as well as a frame protectant. <S> It will be interesting to see some reviews about these new products as far as pricing and how well they work. <A> I have used many types of bicycle lubrications over the years. <S> The short answer is that WD-40 can be used; my experience pretty much the averages out of allthe comments above. <S> The strength of WD-40 is that it is time efficient and cost efficient. <S> A small amount of money buys you a big can, and one application both cleans and lubricates (a little). <S> When you spray it on you will see all the grime etc. <S> dripping off (not quite as good as properly degreasing using a chain cleaner ) and you will be left with a chain that is reasonably well lubricated. <S> The slightest bit of rain will wash it off, and even with no rain it will disappear quite quickly. <S> However it is very easy to re-apply. <S> I found that it worked for me for a bike I was just using for short rides (45 mins ~ 1 hr) on the road. <S> I would just give it a spray every 2 rides or so (or every time after rain). <S> I turned to this after years of using expensive bike-specific lubes. <S> They definitely do a better lubrication job, but I found the dry ones were washed off easily by the rain while the wet ones attracted a lot of dirt, while both required the chain to be properly cleaned before application. <S> The bottles were always expensive, so in the end I found that for that particular bike WD-40 provided a cheap-and-cheerful time and cost effective soln. <S> The chain will also wear out a little quicker if you use WD-40. <S> Your own choice will depend on how much time /money you want to spend, how long your rides are, what type of riding (off or on road) etc. <S> The very best way to lubricate your chain is to properly wax it; this will take a whole morning but will then last a year, which also provides a good cost performance if you have a morning to spare on it. <A> I used WD-40 on my oil starved bike chain and gears, and it totally brought it back to life. <S> It was like magic!! <A> WD 40 washes out the manufacturers high quality lube from the chain links so do not use it.
|
If you're cleaning your chain for re-lubrication purposes with a product other than WD-40, then WD-40 will be fine to use. Some people do use it for loosening up shifters in the winter time ( they stick when it's cold ) or cleaning chains and derailleurs.
|
Shorten or replace bicycle chain? The chain on my internally geared hub bicycle is now too long even when the rear wheel is entirely pulled back. How do I tell whether it's sufficient to shorten the chain by removing some links, or if I need to buy a new chain altogether? I've done 14335 km (8907 mi) and the chain is a Rohloff. <Q> If this chain has been on it for nearly 9000 miles - I'd suggest a new one! <S> You could shorten it, but the wear is on the link connectors, so the sapcing is going to be wider than it should be - thus wearing the sprockets! <A> Given that it's an internally geared bike and therefore basically a singlespeed in terms of what the chain touches, I would be less inclined to change it. <S> You can run a chain on a single speed fr a very, very long time without issues. <S> The components will all wear together <S> and yes you will likely have to replace the chainring, cog, and chain all at the same time <S> but you can get away with lots more miles on a single setup without any adverse effects compared to an externally geared configuration <A> As chains wear, the distance in between the link gaps increases. <S> ( This page on chain maintenance will tell you more than you need to know on the subject.) <S> When this gets past a certain point, the chain needs to be replaced. <S> If this isn't done, increased wear to the drivetrain sprockets almost certainly will result, since the chain no longer fits over the sprockets properly. <S> (Since this is bike has an IGH, this problem will still exist but to a lesser degree, due to the lack of derailer gears.) <S> I highly recommend you not only replace your chain but also have the sprocket and chainring examined; they may need to be replaced as well. <S> Once this is done, you'll notice the bike shifts more smoothly and works better in general.
|
If it was an externally geared bike I would say replace it. A chain with this many miles on it almost certainly has a large amount of what's called "chain stretch".
|
Apart from the size, is there any difference between chains for derailleurs or for single-speed / internally geared hubs? I might need to replace my bicycle chain (see this question ). The store where I've bought components before ( cyclecomponents.com ) seems to be entirely marketed to derailleurs, and I have an internally geared hub. Can I buy one of their chains as long as the size is correct, or are there some fundamental differences between the two? <Q> I see a few different sizes of chain, broken down as follows 1/8 inch wide chain <S> Single Speed / <S> Internal Hub only, don't use with a standard derailleur. <S> Can fit on 1/8 inch or 3/32 inch chainrings and cassettes. <S> It will have some play when installed with a 3/32 chainring or cassette, but it's usable. <S> So, if you accidentally buy an 1/8 in chain and have smaller chainrings, you can still use the 1/8 inch wide chain. <S> 3/32 inch wide chain <S> Used for single speed or derailleur bikes. <S> Speced to be used for specific number of gears on the rear cassette, 6/7/8 speed, 9 speed, and 10 speed are most common sizes. <S> You typically want this number to match the chain (it matters more on 9, 10, or 11 speed clusters since the chainrings tend to vary slightly in width and tooth shape so they work better with the narrower spacing on the rear cassette and require more lateral flexibility. <S> I typically use 6/7/8 speed chains for my bikes that have single speed, fixed gear, or internally geared hubs that have 3/32 cogs since they tend to be cheaper than the 9, 10, or 11 speed chains since they don't need to be as flexible and will usually have a pretty straight chainline. <S> 1/8 inch cogs/chainrings will not fit a smaller 3/32 chain. <A> Summary: It might work. <S> You have to check. <S> It's easier/better to find a single-speed chain, since they're easy to find and not more expensive than a multi-speed chain. <S> There's actually two size differences between chains for singlespeed/internally-geared bikes and chains for derailleur bikes. <S> The obvious is length : <S> The chains might be sold at the same length, but you shorten the SS chain a lot more. <S> Width : <S> a Singlespeed chain is 1/4-inch (6.35mm) wide, while a derailleur chain is 3/16-inch (4.76mm) wide. <S> (There's actually more variance in width of derailleur chain due to different gearing setups) <S> The good news is that the pitch is the same , meaning that the distance between pins is the same and the number of links in a given distance is the same. <S> Because of the width difference of the chain, often sprockets made for a single-speed/internally-geared bike are wider. <S> In other words, it might work , but it might not. <S> If it looks like a tight fit with no clearance, you need a singlespeed chain. <S> If it looks like you could almost fit a second tooth in the wide gap, you could probably make do with a derailleur-chain. <S> Make sure to check front and back. <S> There happens to be two SS/internally-geared bikes in my garage, so I went and looked. <S> One (the cheaper one) looks like the teeth are narrow enough that any chain would work, while the other has thicker teeth that just fit between the inner platesand I doubt a derailleur chain would work on it. <S> I think it'd be fine in the front on both bikes, it's just the back on the internally-geared bike with teeth a bit too thick for that. <S> It probably doesn't matter for your usage, but it's also possible with singlespeed chains to get some options that aren't available on derailleur chains, such as half-link, decoratively colored outer-plates, super-heavy-duty chains, etc. <S> There are some other differences with derailleur chains, such as flexibility, pins, etc. <S> But no differences that matter for putting a derailleur chain on a single-speed bike. <A> A derailleur-style chain needs to be more flexible, side-to-side. <S> Not that such flexibility will cause problems on a single-speed setup. <S> Also, newer derailleur setups need for the chain pins to project slightly, to facilitate indexed shifting. <S> This is not needed (but harmless) in a single-speed setup.
|
A chain installed on a singlespeed bike is likely a lot shorter than a chain installed on a derailleur bike. Look carefully at the old chain when it's on the sprockets, and look at how the teeth fit in between the inner plates of the chain.
|
How can I properly replace the hose on this older Schwinn pump? I have the following Schwinn bike pump. It’s pretty old, perhaps 30 years or more. I like it a lot. Some years ago, I changed to Presta valves; for this I needed a new head. I got a Topeak SmartHead Bicycle Floor Pump Upgrade Kit , which is a replacement head and hose with a number of different adapters. Unfortunately, none of them fit this pump, so I just hacked off most of the worn-out stock hose and spliced in the Topeak hose (one of the adapters is designed for this). Every so often, the splice begins to leak because the stock hose cracks a little. This is easily repaired by cutting off another 5mm and re-splicing, but obviously that's not sustainable. Here are some close-up views of the threads, and also the gauge for ID purposes. That's a AAA battery for scale. My question is: where can I find something that will screw into the threads in the base of the pump and somehow lead to a modern Presta pump head? <Q> I think that the size of that thread is called, "1/16 pipe thread" Find local places that make custom hydraulic hoses and verify the thread. <S> Then ask whether they have a fitting that is 1/16 male thread by hose barb. <S> Then you could eliminate all of the 30-year-old hose. <A> Another option would be to very carefully cut off the piece of metal that crimps the existing hose onto the threaded part, and then reuse the threaded part by crimping the new hose onto it. <S> The downside is that if it doesn't work, you can no longer even go on as you are, because you will no longer have any of the old hose left at all to join to. <S> If you can find another hose that fits first, like maybe a one from a similar age frame pump (which would be too short to just use as is), that would be safer. <S> Downside - if the new thread is too much larger, the base of the pump will break. <S> (And if it's not larger enough, it won't hold the new adapter securely. <S> You could cross thread it and then use epoxy, but that's getting pretty desperate.) <A> A search online turned up nothing for a pump that old. <S> If you have a model number or something else that identifies the pump, that may help get better answers. <S> There are plenty of replacement hoses out there, but the photos don't really show a closeup of the threaded connection to the pump base. <S> The only thing I can think of, would be to take the pump and the hose connection piece to an automotive shop where they can make their own high pressure hose fittings for vehicle applications like air conditioning type hoses. <S> You would obviously need a smaller diameter hose, but it's possible they have smaller hoses for other high pressure applications. <S> They may already have a threaded fitting that will work, or know where to get one. <S> If they have or can get the fitting, then the correct diameter and length of hose should be easy. <S> This would likely cost twice as much or more than you paid for the pump, but if it's a favorite, it may be worth it to you.
|
Yet another option (which could also be used if you try the option above and it fails) - pick one of the adapters that came with the new hose, and make the pump fit it, either by tapping it out to a larger thread that fits a larger adapter thread, or tapping it out to a larger thread and fitting a helicoil.
|
How do I tell if my cog needs replacing? Two answers to this question gather that after 14335 km (8907 mi) of cycling with a single chain, the cog is at risk of being damaged. I haven't noticed anything unusual apart from the chain being too long. How do I tell if my cog needs replacement? My rear cog on a Rohloff Speedhub Different angle, close-up <Q> The sprockets (apart from the 13 tooth) are reversible, so you can get twice the life out of one by taking it off and using the other side of the teeth. <S> http://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/sprocket/index.html (From my experience with a 3 speed hub, a hub gear sprocket can be badly hooked without causing problems when run with an equally worn chain, long after the point where a derailleur wouldn't shift properly. <S> I'm not recommending that you let it get that worn though.) <A> That cog is barely worn at all. <S> I wouldn't bother flipping it until the tip of the teeth is about 2mm, and then I'd ride it until the tips were breaking off. <S> Specifically, that's what I actually do <S> and I have a cog bolted to my workshop wall to remind me what "slightly too worn" looks like. <S> When I replaced that cog <S> I did not replace the chainring, just the chain. <S> The problem with leaving it until too many teeth have broken off is that it can be hard to get a chain whip on to remove the cog. <A> A quick way, is to just have a little look. <S> If a new chain meshes nicely and there are no funny sounds or any skipping when it turns, then it's good to go. <S> Sheldon Brown has some examples of worn cogs and how to spot them here .
|
The problem is that the chain starts to skip or hang, because the teeth are so short the chain will easily ride up on or over them. From the photo it looks to me as if it's only worn in one direction so far, or at least significantly more worn in one direction.
|
How to deal with long pre-bled brake line? I bought and installed a set of pre-bled hydraulic brakes onto my bike to replace the mechanical discs that came with it. My future plan is to buy a new bike, transfer the brakes to my wife's bike and replace the old discs onto my bike and sell it. In the meantime I have a very long rear line, about 30cm extra, that I'm struggling to manage. I've looped it and cable tied it on both sides of the loop, once back on itself and again to the front brake line. Unfortunately this solution slips a lot so I'm looking for a better one. At this stage performance of the brakes seems ok with this method. Does anyone know of a better solution or is getting them shortened by my LBS the way to go? <Q> Shortening the hoses isn't much more than a 10 minute job on most models. <S> You'll need either a bike shop, or some nice cutters and a new olive and insert which will cost a dollar/pound or two. <S> Although, as these are moving to a new bike, I'd leave them be and do a more thorough job of looping them until you can measure them on the new bike. <S> What are you using, my first stop would be zip ties and if that slips still, duct/duck tape. <S> When you move them, a little alcohol will lift any sticky mess that's left. <S> You wont hurt the performance of the brakes unless you kink the hose. <S> Don't do that. <S> They'll want replacing if you do. <A> What i suggest is to find a better way or a better spot to tie them looped. <S> This will create friction between the hose itself and the cable tie. <S> AS for the spot to tie them, For the rear brake <S> I sugest tie it in a loop as big as possible in a side of the front triangle (i.e. between and tied to at least two os the following: seat tube, topt tube, down tube). <S> With two attachment points against the frame it is almost sure it wont move. <S> Three points would be even better. <S> For example, if the normal cabling route goes For the front brake <S> I sugest to route the hose towards the middle of the handlebar and tie it near the stem-handlebar joint. <S> Loop it down and back to the stem-handlebar joint. <S> Use two ties, one for the hose coming from the lever and other for the hose going out of the loop. <S> When you look it from the front it will appear lika an "O" hanging from the stem. <S> Add a tie at 3 O'clock (or 9 O'clock) where the hose separates from the loop. <S> That will keep the "O" shape a little neater. <S> Further tips: <S> If the hose keeps slipping out, use bigger size of ties. <S> The small ones stretch easily. <S> Use some protection on the frame to avoid friction damage to the finishing. <S> There are comercially available frame protectors, but you may be able to fashion them out of old inner tube, foamy or cloth, warped around tubes and held up with the same ties. <S> Tie the hoses in such way that normal steering, pedaling and suspension movement (if applicable) is not interferred and it does not push against / pull from the tie points. <A> For the rear brake line, how about spiraling it around the downtube or top tube?
|
Cable ties should work fine enough, but if the hose is too stubborn or slippery, you might add a loop of duct tape around the hose in two points that once looped will get in touch. As the other answer says, if this brake system is going to be transferred to another bike, it is better left with complete length hoses and shorten them when put in the new bike. A loop could stick out, and invite snagging on a branch with disastrous results.
|
Employer Duty of Care for cyclist The company I work for provides cycle racks for cyclists in a semi underground carpark that is open at one side. Several cycles have been stolen from this area and one colleage was attacked by a bike thief who he surprised. Another was threatened on another occasion.The company refuses to install a gated caged area or secure entrance to the car park, does the company have a duty to provide a safe parking area? <Q> Where I live the employer would have an obligation under law to "Take all practical steps", however, one practical step for the employer is to remove the bike racks, as these are attracting the thieves, thus, the employer has addressed the issue. <S> I do not think you want to go quoting various legislation at them. <S> The better way is to sell the benefits of people biking (reduce number of car, healthier people- less time off work (careful here - accidents can count against you, happier more lively people - more productive when at work.). <S> Sell the benefits of not have low life-cruising company car parks (it's not only cyclists who will get attacked) - they might take a liking to the bosses car.... <S> When you say they refused - how and <S> what did you ask for? <S> Did you leave room to negotiate, to did you demand a they provide a solution to your problem? <S> Was the refusal from one person (say a low level facilities manager), or from the Executive/Senior management team? <S> A flat refusal with no good reason would seem unlikely to me. <A> where i work we had the same problem. <S> Lots of bike thefts and on two occaisons, violence directed at people who interrupted a theft. <S> Work had a duty of car to look after us and many options where explored including moving the bike rack from the semi underground car park. <S> It was decided that the underground car park provided good protection from the elements so a cage was installed around the bikes with a code to get in. <S> We haven't had a single theft since. <S> Absolutely brilliant! <S> If work won't pay for it, is it an option for all the users to club together and cover the cost? <A> Where I worked in the US, our company furnished a parking area for bicycles, but it was up to the owner to secure their bicycle with a lock if they wished to deter any theft of the bike. <S> The area for bikes was right in the same location of the vehicle parking, so the bike parking was visible from anywhere at the front of the plant. <S> I would think that any company no matter where they were located can furnish an area for bicycles, but should not be held reaponsible for stolen bicycles or damage to bikes on their property. <S> Quiet/darkened areas are very condusive for having a bicycle or anything else stolen. <S> Maybe the company would consider installing a security camera and better lighting that covers this area, if they have someone to monitor the camera. <S> If you can find a safer place with more pedestrian traffic nearby, that would possibly deter a bicycle thief from having "private time" to work on stealing a bike. <A> I'm not a lawyer but there seem to me to be two issues here: (1) does the company have a duty to provide a parking area (for bikes) <S> The answer is generally "No", but you may have a contract with them (written or otherwise) that means they are obliged to provide one to you. <S> (2) if the company provides a parking area what steps are they obliged to take to make your bike and you safe from thieves? <S> Generally, employees would bring property on to their employer's premises at their own risk but that is, again, an issue between you and your employer (check staff handbook, notices posted in staff areas, etc). <S> As for your personal safety, your employer would have some type of duty of care. <S> As other posters have suggested though, removing bike racks, or simply advising you not to use them may be considered acceptable solutions. <S> My personal experience of this is that a previous employer did respond to bike thefts by providing a locked cage. <S> Also, where I have worked in places that involve entering or leaving the building late at night, I have been warned of the increased personal risk (e.g., from drunks).
|
In my opinion, this bicycle parking area you describe is in an area that is accessable by a thief, but in an area that is too quiet and provides a thief with the solitude needed to break a bicycle lock unnoticed by anyone passing by. If your employer knows of a threat to your health and fails to warn you or take reasonable steps to ensure your safety then there may be some liability.
|
Replacing Crankset. Do I need to replace chain? Then do I need to replace cassette? Over the past year, my road bike's crankset has gotten pretty bent up and out of wack. Not due to abuse, just wear and tear I guess. It's pretty bent and has a nice wobble that I can see as I look down at it while pedaling. So I'm interested in replacing the crankset. But I've read there are various rules of thumb to follow when replacing cranksets, chains and cassettes. When you replace one you have to replace the other or something along those lines. Something about teeth wearing evenly. Do I need to replace anything else if I replace my crankset? <Q> If you replace the crankset you almost certainly get new front sprockets. <S> Compared to the cost of the crankset and sprockets a new chain is chicken feed, so get a new chain. <S> Whether you need to replace the rear cassette is a whole 'nother question, pretty much independent from the front. <S> If the cassette is badly worn it may cause your chain to wear slightly faster, but not enough to worry about. <S> And you may find that the rear shifts poorly with the new chain, or suffers some "chain suck", but probably it will be OK, if it is now. <A> Your new crankset will have new chainrings so you'll be set on that front. <S> It's also possible that you need to change your chain, cassette, or both. <S> Generally speaking, as a chain stretches the cassette stretches with it. <S> The chain rings on the crankset can stretch too but they take longer due to the stress being distributed across more teeth, thus less strain on any one tooth. <S> You can get an estimate of how much your chain has stretched by measuring a full link (which consists of two half links, an inner and an outer). <S> They should measure exactly one inch. <S> A tenth of an inch longer means it's worn and should be replaced. <S> There isn't any really foolproof method that I know of for checking the wear on the rear cassette other than try it and see if it works. <S> You can try to eyeball it, but that's not entirely accurate even if you know what you're looking for. <S> For all you could ever want to know, check out the always helpful Sheldon Brown. <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html <A> There is a similar thread that addresses the chain\cassette question. <S> Bottom line is it depends . <S> Here are the steps I would follow in determining what to do if you were to bring your bike to me: <S> Make sure the crank is not loose (this can cause crank wobble). <S> Make sure there are no loose bolts that connect the crank to the chain rings (this can also cause wobble). <S> If you need a new crank get one. <S> If you buy a crank that does not come with new chain rings (higher end cranks can be purchased without the chain rings) <S> you'll probably want to purchase new ones (unless your current chain rings are not heavily worn\damaged). <S> Check your chain for wear. <S> If your chain needs to be replaced do so. <S> Check your cassette for wear. <S> There are tools for this. <S> Your LBS can also check this. <S> If you have been using a worn out chain (step 5) for a while then there is a good possibility that it damaged your cassette. <A> If the bike is a good bike, a good fit and you like riding it I would replace the chain, cassette and chain set with a higher quality upgrade. <S> If you do that you can ensure that the gearing will not jump on a worn cassette and to guarantee my gear changes I would change my derialleur jockey wheels.
|
A chain wear indicator tool is a great investment as it will save you from using a worn out chain (and possibly ruining your cassette and chain rings).
|
Different Gear Type when there's no Front Derailleur? I have a 7 speed Jamis Boss Cruiser, 7 gears in back and one up front. I've been using it fine for several months now. Lately, the chain is coming off of the single front gear, usually after stopping at an intersection when I start back up again. I took it to a bike shop and the guy claims the front gear is not the right type of gear, its the type of gear that's meant to work with a derailleur. He says that's why the chain comes off. I'm disinclined to trust him since it's worked without problems for almost 8 months. If it was the wrong gear, I would have been having problem before now, right? Is it true that there is a type of front gear for use with derailleurs and a type of front gear meant to be used as a single front gear? <Q> A derailleur suitable chainring is designed to assist the chain climbing onto the chainring, via ramps and pins that the chain engages into. <S> Non-derailleur chainrings are much simpler and are just the straight teeth. <S> To solve your problem, you could: <S> Check your chainring and potentially replace it with a single speed chainring Get a chain keeper like this one Or both! <S> More information is on these questions: <S> Mysterious case: chain falling off large chainring <S> Why does my chain keep jumping off the front chainring? <A> Although this has been answered I thought I'd chuck another suggestion in there. <S> As Mac said there is a difference between chainrings meant for deraileurs and those meant for single-speeds. <S> That's not to say you can't use the former without a deraileur, but as it is easier to derail the chain you should check your chainline is well set up. <S> This is because the chain is being pulled to one side. <S> Ideally your front ring should be more-or-less in line with the middle cog on your rear cassette. <S> You say the problem usually happens when you stop at intersections. <S> This could be because you are shifting into a low gear to ready yourself for setting off again <S> and it's this situation that causes the most lateral force on the chain. <S> Combined with high force on the crank from accelerating and possible wear on the front ring increases the chances of derailment. <A> Bikes with 1 front gear comes with a "guard" on the chainring that prevent chain from falling. <S> When this guard broken up chain will easily fall at the extreme gear position, usually when you turn the pedals back.
|
If your front ring is aligned too much to either side of your rear cassette, when you shift to a gear on the opposite side (e.g. the highest or lowest gear depending on the misalignment) it could cause the chain to jump off the front ring. Yes, there is a difference between front chainrings for derailleur equipped bikes compared to bikes without a derailleur.
|
My front wheel steers right. How do I solve it? Some time ago I had a little accident with my bike. With the accident the front wheel got unaligned from the handlebar. I simply put it in the right position holding the wheel with my legs and turning the handle bar. Easy solution. Since than the wheel has a strange behaviour. If I let go of the handle bar when riding the wheel (and handle bar) turns right "automatically". Do you have any idea of what is happening? Note: Initially I thought it could be a warped wheel but it doesn't seem to be the case. <Q> Depends on how "little" the accident was. <S> First double-check that the handlebar really is "square" to the fork, and not slightly cocked one direction or the other. <S> (Though this problem shouldn't cause the wheel to turn when you let go.) <S> Next, oddly enough, do the same check with your seat. <S> If the seat is slightly angled to one side or the other then it will put your weight off-balance and you will get the tendency to turn. <S> (Also, note that you'll have this problem if you put weight in a basket on one side of the bike or some such.) <S> If not those, pick the front end of the bike up and spin the wheel -- make sure it doesn't wobble at all as it turns. <S> Do the same with the rear. <S> If not those, I'd suspect that the frame is bent. <S> If you stand in front of the bike and imagine a line going down through the center of the steering shaft, that line should be exactly in line with the frame of the bike behind. <S> If it twists to one side or the other then that's your problem -- bent frame. <S> Also look at the fork itself (a slightly more difficult thing to do accurately). <S> Especially likely if the accident involved hitting something. <S> In any event I'd suggest you take the bike to a bike shop (or a knowledgeable friend) and have it checked out. <A> Another check not mentioned yet: <S> The bearing in the head tube may have been bashed giving you a point which the handlebars prefer to remain in. <S> I had this happen with an older bike and as this point was slightly off to one side, the handlebars would end up moving to that spot if I tried taking my hands off, which meant it could not be ridden hands free. <S> The fix was to replace the bearing completely. <A> Maybe you have bended fork, so now your right fork blade is little behind left blade? <S> Or maybe you have dented something in headset? <A> Depends on the bike, but a common problem is that your fork and handlebars are out of alignment. <S> This is more common on older bikes that don't use a threadless headset. <S> It used to happen to me frequently. <S> This style of clamp tends to allow this more easily than the newer threadless fork/headset/stem designs. <S> If you have a newer bike with a threadless headset, you'll probably need to loosen the star nut on top of the steerer column as well as the clamp bolts on the stem before you can adjust the position and re-tighten. <S> Though, this is much less common with this setup since the stem tends to be clamped directly on the fork's steering tube, which prevents them from going out of alignment easily. <A> While riding the bike try looking at the front tyre from both sides. <S> Only in the riding position I notice the tilt of the fork. <S> If the fork is bent then the tyre can be seen easily only from any one side towards which the fork is bent.
|
If you have an older bike with a threaded headset and fork, you can just loosen the bolt at the top of the stem, adjust the bars so they line up with the wheel, and re-tighten the bolt. In your accident one "tine" of the fork may have gotten pushed back relative to the other.
|
deore LH crank on 105 chainset I have a 105 triple chainset (hollowtechII) and the left hand side has developed a crack. Now I can't find any replacement 105 LH cranks but there are some Deore ones on the ebays that aren't too expensive. So will they fit? I know since it's Shimano nothing is compatible with anything else, you're supposed to just go out and buy a whole new bicycle, but I'm hoping… <Q> I don't think these are compatible, but I can't find anything. <S> You might want to look for a HT2 road crank arm. <S> The Shimano road ranges are DuraAce, Ultegra, 501, Tiagra, Sora and 2100. <S> Not sure if these all offer HT2 cranks. <S> Also, you'll need a special tool (TL-FC16) to install the preload cap. <A> As mentioned by Alex, Hollowtech parts are compatible. <S> If all you're replacing is the left-hand crank arm, the only thing that you need to worry about is that it is the same length as your existing crank arm. <S> Whether it's for mountain or road bikes, crank arms come in a variety of different lengths. <S> The weight will likely be off if you get any type of crank other than what's already on there. <S> Cheap cranks tend to be heavier on average than more expensive cranks. <S> But you're probably not going to notice the difference. <S> Except maybe when you take your feet off the pedals with the heavy one in the back position and gravity pulls it downward. <S> Other than that, a mountain crank will probably look funny and that's about it. <A> Mountain bikes have wider chain stays than road bikes so the cranks need to be further apart to prevent them (or the cyclist's heel) from banging into the frame. <S> The distance between the pedal attachment points on the crank arms is referred to as the Q factor. <S> Typical Q factor for road cranks is ~150mm; for mountain cranks it is ~175mm. <S> This means a mountain crank is likely to be 10-15mm further from the frame than a road crank. <S> Small differences in the crank symmetry aren't that noticeable, but I suspect that 15mm might be. <S> Also worth noting that many people believe that narrower cranks are more comfortable and efficient, which is why manufacturers produce their road cranks with a lower Q factor. <S> Do swap the chain rings, even if the replacement crank has rings, because differences in the wear between rings and chain can accelerate wear and cause chain slippage. <A> Be careful because even if you find one with matching interface, it might still be heavier than right arm. <S> It would not be end of the world but it might feel a little funny.
|
If you want to replace your cranks on the cheep, I would try to find a second hard pair compatible with your existing chain rings and bottom bracket. All Shimano Hollowtech II road crank arms are compatible , however, the Deore is a mountain range.
|
What will happen to a roadbike when rode on broken tar? I am planning to buy a bicycle (either road-bike or MTB ). I personally prefer road-bike. I have to travel on broken tar to reach a smooth tar road. On an average I will cycle 200 km per week out of which 15% will be on broken tar (rugged road) with ups and downs. If I buy a road-bike, it will be this . I know the purpose of the road-bikes and the MTBs. Is it advisable to buy a road-bike given this condition? My main question is, will the road-bikes do good for 30 km, in a week, on rugged road? If not, what will happen to the bike? Can anyone please suggest? Also please let me know if you want more details on the question. <Q> What do you expect to happen? <S> Not quite sure what you mean by "roadster", <S> but I assume it's roughly the same as a "road bike" in the US -- <S> what would have been called a "racing bike" 30 years ago before racing bikes got all high-tech. <S> The main distinguishing characteristics of such bikes are that they have a more "aggressive" riding position, a lighter-weight frame, and skinny tires. <S> They'll also usually have "drop" handlebars, but that's true of many bikes in other categories. <S> All of those characteristics make it harder to ride on rough, uneven pavement, and the skinny tires can make it impossible to ride on really loose gravel. <S> But it's certainly possible to ride on ordinary "broken pavement", if you exercise a little care. <S> And you should probably stay away from super-narrow tires. <A> Sounds to me like a Touring bicycle would meet your requirements. <S> To the unfamiliar, they look like a road bike but they have larger treaded tires (About 1"), their frames are built for strength and they can support heavy weight from either the rider or loads. <S> They ride a little more upright than a road bike and mine came with mountain bike gearing so it is a joy on climbs but not so fast flat out. <S> I ride mine on what we call crusher fines which is similar to your road condition. <S> There are several well known touring bikes that should fit your need quite well. <S> I understand it is against site policy to give models but a Google Touring Bicycles <S> you'll get a list to start with. <S> Mine is a Surly. <A> You shouldn't have problems with a road bike under these conditions. <S> I have a 1989 Miyata LT1000 touring bike, ( Chromoly steel frame ). <S> I ride on some roads that have broken pavement, rolled stone, and even in some towns that still have brick streets. <S> These can all be very rough. <S> I probably ride about 100 to 150 miles average per week ( 5 to 7 days ), on these types of roads/streets, with about 5 or 6 miles of this being the same type of condition you talk about, and have never experienced any type of bicycle/wheel failure due to these conditions. <S> Proper maintenance keeping everything "buttoned up", and tire pressure correct is the main thing you have to do. <S> I carry 75 PSI in my 700CC 32MM wide tires. <A> I might look into getting a cross bike. <S> They are road bikes designed for abuse. <S> Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclo-cross <S> Cross Race: This won't be a great option if you are wanting to race road riders, however a cross bike will offer you 9/10ths of a roadbike's efficiency with much greater freedom to explore more technical terrain. <S> There are a couple cross riders (who are very tallented) who ride my local XC trails. <S> I think a cross bike should also feel more lively than a touring bike which may be a good thing or bad thing. <S> I would recommend trying to find something that has fender eyelets and rack mount points.
|
As to the bike, such conditions would tend to be rough on a carbon frame or exotic rims, but a bike of more ordinary construction (if you can find one anymore) should not experience extraordinary wear/fatigue. Add to that some common sense about the speed you travel in these sections, and you shouldn't have any real bad experiences on your daily travels. You'd want a bike, first and foremost, with sturdy rims -- 32 spoke if possible, and at least 28.
|
Why do I always get punctures in my rear wheel? I get probably five times as many punctures in my rear wheel as opposed to my front wheel. I run a good pressure and don't get obvious pinch flats. Does anyone have a logical reason why this could be happening? <Q> The back wheel is the wheel bearing most of the weight and also the wheel providing the driving force. <S> For these 2 reasons it is likely that the forces being exerted between the wheel and surface are much greater on the rear wheel than on the front. <S> This makes it more likely that you will get punctures on the rear wheel than the front - all other things equal. <A> That piece of glass or metal can pierce the tube repeatedly, even after you repair the tube. <S> This happened to me once. <S> I repaired the hole in the tube and a day later another pressure loss. <S> I finally realized that a piece of glass was stuck in the tire. <S> You can feel with your fingers on the inside of the tire for sharp objects. <A> Other effects: the front tyre can disturb something lying flat on the ground, flicking it up ready to cause a puncture on the rear; and taking a rear wheel off to fix a flat is more hassle because of the gears and so even if you have equal numbers of flats, the extra time spent on rear ones makes it feel like you have more rear ones :-) <A> In the past year, have gotten 5 rear flats and 0 front, while riding in bike lanes. <S> 3 flats were caused by small metal pieces, 1 by a thorn, and 1 by a screw. <S> Suspect that the front wheel lifted up these items and <S> the rear wheel rode over them at a puncture angle (straight into the tire). <S> This must be happening since the metal items would normally lay flat on the ground, explaining why flats are on the rear. <S> Am riding 20+ mph, which means the rear tire passes over where the front was very quickly. <A> Are the holes on the inner surface of the inner tube as opposed to the outer surface. <S> It could be that one of your spokes is slightly loose, when you sit on the bike this spoke may be pushing into the tube slightly and causing the punctures. <S> Check the position of the holes and see if they're inside or outside, if they're outside then check for sharp objects pushing through the tyre as previously mentioned by someone else. <A> I cut up a leather belt and use it to line the inside of my tyres. <S> Its a trick my grandad showed me 20 year ago... <S> Its not puncher proof <S> but they are rare. <S> hope this helps you. <S> Also wrap tape around the wheel to put a barrier between your spokes and inner tube because they can pinch your tubes causing them to deflate.
|
It is possible that something is stuck in your rear wheel tire.
|
Gear up-shift not smooth When I am pedaling hard and shift to a larger sprocket, the shift is not smooth or sometimes doesn't happen at all. Sometimes even double up-shifts don't work. There is no problem shifting when I test for it without riding. What could be the issue? <Q> The sprocket into which you have attempted to shift, and the pulley in the derailleur should be aligned. <S> As you tighten the screw, you should see pulley moving horizontally. <S> If that does not help, other problem might be that your chain hanger is bent, but that happens much less often, and typically after some crash or hard hit on the rear derailleur. <S> If that is the case, taking your bike to LBS sounds like a good idea. <A> That is perfectly normal because when you are pedaling hard the chain is under tension and resists being moved by the derailleur. <S> Before shifting to a higher gear slow your pedaling slightly. <A> After a lot of tinkering and research I found the derailleur was in the need of indexing adjustment . <S> Just twisted the barrel adjuster anticlockwise a little and the gears are shifting promptly now. <S> The above link advises that indexing adjustment is the most frequently required adjustment for rear derailleur.
|
If the pulley is more to the right than sprocket, you need to get it aligned to the sprocket, by tightening in the screw on shifter or on the rear derailleur. On ground, after shifting, look at your bike from the back.
|
Freehub has started slipping, what can I do? I've just gone through the london winter and both my bikes now have a slipping freehub. Admittedly my mountain bikes' freehub is quite old and probably worn out, but I'm wondering if they are seized up inside and I can apply some lubrication to stop it from slipping? Anyone got any good advice? <Q> Here's a couple of guides: <S> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freehub-service <S> http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-how-to-overhaul-your-freehub-23757/ Cold also makes it worse, but this covers much worse temperatures that the UK: http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm <S> (And while it's true that "flushing with solvent has not been a reliable substitute for full disassembly", if the freewheel isn't engaging at all, just drenching it with WD-40 <S> can work as a short term fix until you get round to a proper job.) <A> Hello Everyone Please pass this on. <S> I had a free hub I thought was slipping. <S> It's not the freehub. <S> It's steel. <S> It's not the chain, it's new. <S> Theres <S> no way the front drive is slipping, the chain is wrapped around. <S> SOI put a mark on my freehub spline position. <S> Quess <S> what?? <S> The Rear Wheel Drive spline is Pressed IN, and it slips. <S> Go slip it. <S> Teardown look at the marks. <S> If they moved..you need a new wheel. <S> ORHere's a trick. <S> It's aluminum. <S> Where the two are pressed together, drill right on the interference diameter and hammer a brad into the interface, 2 places. <S> The washer on the free hub will keep it from coming out. <S> This applies to NEXAVE FH C500 on TREK3900.I <S> got the bike because they couldng fix the slip. <S> Crazy, everyone's replacing the Wrong PART!Please share!!!!! <A> If it's sticky pawls, often the syptom will be freewheeling while attempting to pedal forward immediately after coasting. <S> If it is the cassette body and it's been skipping for awhile, you may well have damaged the pawls and ratchet to the point where the cassette body requires replacement. <S> This is a job of moderate difficulty. <S> First, though, get the chain completely slack and rotate each link to check for smoothness. <S> If you installed a new chain recently, but not the cassette, that's likely the source of your skipping.
|
Check for tight chainlinks and excessive cog wear if it skips under load. It can happen that the pawls get sticky and cleaning helps. So before you spend money... take apart the assembly, remove the freewheel, mark the spline position to the wheel.
|
Can you put disc brakes on road forks originally intended for calipers? I've decided I want a disc brake, at least on the front, which seems a good enough reason to go bike shopping, but am I overlooking the possibility of fitting a cable pull disc brake to my current bike? I've been using a ten year old road bike as a commuter. It has carbon front forks with road caliper/rim brakes and integrated Shimano road brake/gear levers. <Q> Like this: Original Image <S> And hub with mounts for brake rotor: <S> I've seen a few attempts to create an adaptor for fork/frame to install disk brakev tabs. <S> But none were good enough for real life. <S> So your best route is to replace your fork and front wheel/hub. <S> But sometimes it is easier to get a whole new bike. <A> I have disc brakes on two of my bikes (one road, one mountain), and swear by them in the winter. <S> You should consider whether it's worth replacing a carbon fork, though, since it will add quite a bit of weight and you may find that this offsets the improvements of the brake itself. <S> A lightweight cyclocross fork with disc tabs will not be cheap, and the beefier steel or aluminum ones are neither light nor free. <S> If you can describe some more of your current specs, I might be able to suggest some options. <S> But to play devil's advocate, I would strongly encourage you to read a few articles to familiarize yourself with some of the issues that can arise when using disc brakes on a road bike. <S> Firstly, this critique by the proprietor of Rodriguez bicycles. <S> Take note of the photo at the bottom of a crumpled road fork which wasn't up to spec for the installed calipers. <S> Secondly, a concrete example of what can go wrong if you use the wrong type of discs on a road bike and push them too far. <S> Also beware that to use discs on the front, you will likely need a dished wheel (unequal spoke length on the two sides). <S> This increases the complexity of a wheel build, making it more expensive and typically more prone to going out of true. <S> That being said, I strongly recommend discs for commuting. <S> As long as you aren't riding up and down mountains and sustaining 35 mph downhill for long periods, you should be fine. <S> Go with mechanical calipers -- hydraulic ones aren't worth the cost, or complexity for a commuter. <S> You'll get all the benefits without the downsides. <S> I suspect it's even cost-competitive, because disc pads and rotors last so much longer than rubber pads (not to mention the wheel wear issue). <A> No. <S> You'll need a replacement fork.
|
To install disk brake, you need brake mount tabs on your fork/frame. As others have suggested, you will need to buy a new fork at the very least. Discs are quieter and require far less maintenance overall, because I'm not sanding my rims down every time I ride on gritty roads in the winter.
|
Front Fork Bent After Crash I had a little spill after stupidly riding in the dark through a park (my light had just broke the same day), and I didn't have enough time to react, leading to a head on collision at about 27km/h with a small wooden post - I ended up ok, but my bike had some noticable problems like the brakes being in the wrong places afterwards. Ok, no problem, easily readjusted with my trusty allen keys. But then I noticed that my front fork had seemingly been bent backwards. Before : After : Noticable that the front tire has been bent back - anything I can do about this, or is this a case for a mechanic? <Q> Is there a fine crack there? <S> Who knows? <S> Certainly, no one can tell from a photo. <S> Are the forks bent unevenly or beyond their design specs, leading to handling problems? <S> Again, who knows? <S> Personally, I would replace it without further ado. <S> It's steel, so <S> although that does mean it can possibly be straightened, it also means it shouldn't be very expensive to replace. <S> A fork is an awfully safety-critical component to gamble with, so I would just replace it. <S> I want my forks in unquestionably perfect condition. <S> But if money is a serious constraint, I would, at an absolute minimum, have it inspected by a bike mechanic and take their advice. <A> I had a somewhat similar accident this summer, and the steerer of my fork was bent and I assume this is also the case for you. <S> I decided to go for a new fork, as it was quite inexpensive (sub $30) and bending it back would have been troublesome and awkward, even with a lathe (which I happen to have access to). <S> One of the problems would be that you'd need to bend it back such that the headset bearings are (near) <S> perfectly aligned, otherwise you'd end up more or less than normal play in the headset bearings when steering. <S> If the steerer is not damaged, you'd have to align the blades of the fork to their old position, without knowing this old position (at least not exactly). <S> Other than worry about the fork, I would suggest checking all the parts of the steering mechanism, as well as the frame and the front wheel for cracks/bends to avoid surprises, I you haven't done so yet. <S> P.S. <S> : If you really want to fix the existing fork, I'd suggest removing it from the bike, putting it into a lathe at the steerer above the bend and try to bend it back. <S> You'd have to be careful however, if you feel that the material is giving in, you've likely already gone to far with the bending. <A> I have bended steel fork like you did, maybe even more. <S> Since I was not able to find a cheap one at that time, my LBS straightened out the bended one. <S> I was not watching him do it, but he told me that steel has a memory, and that it would snap back to the position it had before bending. <S> I was driving about half a year with repaired fork, it worked ok with following exceptions: adjusting front V brake not to squeak in wet weather was next to impossible. <S> Installing break booster did reduce squeaking but did not eliminate it. <S> I guess fork was still a little misaligned. <S> It seems that my headset was also dented in the hit, and it was kind of "indexed" in straight possition. <S> So when I finally found cheap replacement fork, I have replaced it together with new headset. <A> One piece of advice I would add to the answers here: <S> If you hesitate to have your bike looked at by a mechanic / continue to ride on the bent fork, be wary of any new squeaks or rattles you hear while riding. <S> These may indicate a break in the fork (or elsewhere on the frame). <S> Two days of riding later I found the source of the seemingly insignificant rattling noise. <S> My front wheel was holding on just one side of the fork; very dangerous. <A> There are a number of you tube videos out there about straightening steel frames and forks so in theory <S> it's possible, However, whether your fork can be straightened successfully depends on how much it has been bent. <S> Note that there be further damage
|
I once crashed and broke my fork right above the axle and never noticed the break. : the steerer might be bent, the headtube may be ovalized at the bottom headset bearing, and the headtube may be 'kicked in' a little at the bottom, with a slight kink to the bottom tube. I don't think anyone can give you a valid answer from a photo. This is definitely something you will want a professional repair shop to tackle.
|
Does any rental car company offer bike racks? We are hoping to take a self guided trip in Wisconsin. We would like to rent bikes there, but can't find a rental car with a bike rack available. Any ideas? <Q> <A> I recommend giving them a call. <S> From their website <S> it says they have ski racks, but doesn't mention bike racks. <S> Might be worth giving them a try. <A> Most newer rentals have rear seat passthru. <S> Take the front wheel off and you should still have one rear seat available for a passenger. <A> Sixt rental cars USA customer service says: We do have bike racks available but it is based on the location as well as availability. <S> With any rental car agency, you should call and verify that they have the equipment you would like before you depart on your trip. <A> Some places rent folding bikes, which would remove the need for an external rack. <A> I would have thought with a few rachet packing straps you could place the bikes upside down on the roof, secure the handle bars to the frame (so they won't turn) then secure the bikes through the rear door or window (front window as a last resort). <S> As a disclaimer I have never seen this done but secured right it should work just like a roof rack and not damage the paint (but hey I reckon the rental company wouldn't check the roof). <S> If the car has basic roof racks you could rig something pretty good up. <A> From personal experience with Enterprise, I brought a rack with me when I went to Colorado to ride. <S> I just made sure to cover the contact points so it didn't leave and scratches or marks and put it on after getting to my hotel and before leaving. <S> I think it's kind of a don't-ask-don't-tell policy.
|
If you could rent a van or SUV you may be able to load the bikes inside the vehicle. Information on this forum is old, but one guy says that Enterprise has bike racks.
|
Leak only inside the tire I have a tube with a Schrader valve, previously repaired (twice). I needed to use it, so I inflated it by hand until it ballooned to 2x the size, search for leakages in water (valve too) and let it all night to check for slow leakages, but none were found. Later, I put it inside the tire, inflated it by hand (~15 psi) again, put a little soap in the valve, and went to check my email. Ten minutes later, it was totally flat. I repeat the whole procedure twice and it was the same story: the tire showed no leakage outside the tire but lost all pressure when inside the tire. (Finally, it blew out while outside the tire). Why is this happening? I'm just curious ... <Q> Your tire tube is still subject to the basic laws of physics and logic on this Earth. <S> If air is leaking out of it, then there is a leak somewhere and it is perforated. <S> There is probably something in your tire causing the damage, especially if this continues to happen. <S> It's also possible that the leak was close to the valve, and whenever the valve was up against the rim of your wheel, it was bent just so to allow the leak. <A> Try putting the tire in water with a bit of dish soap. <S> The soap will make the bubbles a bit more apparent. <S> Adding a bit more pressure and trying to articulate the area around the valve may help identify the source of the leak. <S> Keep an eye out for tiny air bubbles forming on the surface of the tube while you hold it under water. <S> Also, be careful to check around existing patches. <S> After checking the tube thoroughly, check the inside of the rim for any sharp ridges or places where the rim tape maybe has been worn too much and may let a sharp edge protrude under pressure. <S> Then check the tire itself for any items which may be lodged in it. <S> Glass and metal shards can hide within the rubber of the tire, and when under load or pressure, the fragment can puncture your tube. <S> Sometimes I try and work slowly around the tire and bend the tire so that any gaps in the inside of the tire would open slightly and expose the fragment. <A> Well, I think it is not the fact that it is inside the tyre, but you are probably inflating it to much larger pressure when inside the tyre. <S> At larger pressure tube starts to leak.
|
Slowly feel around the inner surfaces of your tire (lining up the label on the tire with the valve stem can help you identify where to look if you find a hole in the tube). They may not always be visibly apparent.
|
New Chain causing skipping on cassette - will this work itself out or is it unsafe? I just installed a new chain on my 2002 Trek 2200 Road Bike. The old chain was a Shimano 9 speed that I installed 18 months and about 5000 miles ago. It had stretched modestly and was full of winter cruft/grime. The new chain is a SRAM 9 speed, my first time using the gold snap ring system. I followed instructions and made sure I have the same link count as the chain that came off the bike. The cassette was new with the old chain, so it has about 5000 miles on it and doesn't appear to have significant wear. After installation and a clean/wipe/lube/wipe, I took it for a 15 mile easy ride at about 15-16 mph. It shifts perfectly and I didn't have to make any adjustments to either derailleur. Three times, however, when putting it under stain (once on a modest hill climb, once starting from a stop sign in a fairly big gear, and once on an acceleration coming out of a sharp turn) it skipped several teeth and caused my foot to slam down hard. On the hill, it actually hurt as I had my weight off the saddle (not really standing) and I came down hard on the inside of my thigh. I think all three were on the right side (power train side) pedal stroke, and I don't think they were all in the same gear. I'm pretty sure it was the rear cassette that skipped, not the front chainring, but it did happen really fast each time. I will also say that it's not like these were the only three times I put substantial pressure on the pedals in the ride - I wasn't going hard, but I wasn't being tentative or anything. Also, in case it's relevant, it was cold, about 40 degrees F or about 4 degrees Centigrade. My question: Is this going to get me hurt, or will the new chain 'settle in' over a few rides? I searched here and pretty much got confirmation of what I had previously thought, that you always get a new chain when you get a new cassette, but you should be able to get a few chains out of each cassette. Thanks! <Q> Over time an old chain and cassette wear together, so you don't notice the wear until it gets really bad. <S> Unfortunately it won't get better and the only recourse is to replace the cassette as well. <S> In the future you can save money by changing the relatively inexpensive chain more often as the cassette wears faster with an elongated chain. <S> More info: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html <A> After 15000 miles on the same 9 speed chain, same cassette, and same chainrings on a Jamis Aurora 2010, my chain starting skipping when up off the saddle. <S> One day the skipping caused me to flip forward onto my helmet/shoulder/left hip. <S> I'm an advocate of always wearing a helmet now. <S> I suspect I'd have a broken eye socket if I had no helmet. <S> I too thought the skipping was on the rear cassette. <S> But I was wrong. <S> I first just changed the chain. <S> Problem got worse. <S> Then changed the cassette. <S> Problem same. <S> Did some closer testing and found when on the smallest chainring <S> there was no skipping. <S> Changed the two largest chainring and the problem was fixed. <S> When purchasing a chainring you'll need to know the bcd (bolt circle diameter). <S> It should be marked on the large chainring. <A> You might need to get your derailleur adjusted; the new chain would be shorter than the previous chain and one might have bumped the derailleur upon installation.
|
When you replace the chain while leaving the old cassette the tooth profile is no longer correct and the new chain will skip off of the teeth, especially under load.
|
What subtle factors affect performance in unsubtle ways? As a non-professional biker who commutes on a bike daily I've been noticing that some factors that I didn't think would make much difference in how fast I go or how quickly I get tired have a much bigger impact. For example, sideways wind. I did not think that a 5-10 mph wind from the side would slow me down as much as it does. Even tail wind doesn't seem to help. Another is cold. I think that I can bike much faster when its 30C outside vs 0C. Its a little bit hard to say though because I can never compare them side by side. This question may seem a bit vague, but what other factors affect performance in either positive or negative ways that one would not necessarily consider as making much of a difference? <Q> Heat and humidity make a big difference. <A> I'm a commuter who has to carry things like books, a notebook, food for the day, bike lock, etc. <S> I should say that it makes a striking difference whether you carry stuff on your back or on a bike rack -- a heavy bike is not as bad as a heavy backpack, in other words. <S> Another thing that I've noticed is that my performance decreases if I ride five days a week for prolonged periodes of time, compared to having an extra day (or two) off a week, or having a week off in a month. <S> Having rest is important, not only constant training. <A> Boozing the night before has a dramatic effect. <A> It is impossible to push the pace everyday, and hit a consistent performance level. <S> Day to day consistent performance is only possible (far) less than maximal effort. <S> symptom-free infections . <S> It's possible for your body to be fighting some virus, yet fully recover without ever showing symptoms. <S> For instance, you could have a cold virus, but you have no runny nose, no sneezing, no stuffed sinuses. <S> However, when you go running, there is this mysterious extra 1:15 added to every mile which has no obvious explanation like muscles not recovered from prior hard training. <A> Road quality has an amazing effect.
|
A smooth and freshly paved road vs a worn down road, where the tar has leached away and it is very rough makes a real difference on performance. Some factors that affect day to day athletic performance are: the degree to which your muscles have recovered from previous strenuous work . Small changes in bike fit make dramatic differences in performance.
|
Can I use a shock pump to inflate a tube? I know that shock pumps are meant for high pressure applications so that they can withstand high pressures needed by suspension shocks. However, can I use a shock pump to inflate my tire in a pinch if I run out of CO2? How would it compare to a standard mini-pump in terms of volume? <Q> Note: this calculation makes many assumptions, so it's only useful in an 'average use case', not some sort of exact measurement. <S> If you find better information, please post it and I'll update the answer. <S> How many pumps you would need to fill up a tire depends on many variables. <S> First, the volume of your inner tube, which can be approximated as a torus (doughnut-shape) atop the rim size of a given diameter. <S> You can find yours approximated on this graph . <S> 26 <S> " Mountain Bike, 2.1" tire width = 4.8L 29" Mountain Bike, 2.1" tire width = <S> 5.2L <S> 700C Road Bike, 35mm tire width = <S> 2L 20" BMX Bike, 1.85" tire width = <S> 3L <S> I'm finding pump specifications quite difficult to find (I need piston diameter and stroke length), but here's a comparison of some shock pumps on an empty shock cylinder of a 2007 Fox 36 RLC 160mm Fork. <S> Average Accu-Gage Pressure Reading after 100 strokes <S> : 77.2 psi <S> My best guess at RC2 air chamber specifications: 1" (25.4mm) <S> diameter, 160mm length (max travel). <S> If someone can find accurate specs or the true volume, I'd appreciate it. <S> Fox RC2 Air Volume (estimated): <S> Vcylinder = <S> pi*r^2*h <S> = <S> 81 <S> mL <S> So then, IF pumping air into different volumes is linearly proportional (it's not, but somewhere in the ball park), and you wanted to inflate the tires listed above to ~77.2psi <S> , it'd take about this number of pumps with the 'average' shock pump: <S> Tire Volume Ratio of Tire to Air Shock Number of Pumps <S> to ~77.2 psi 26 <S> " Mountain Bike, 2.1" tire width 4.8L 59:1 <S> 5,900 29 <S> " Mountain Bike, 2.1" tire width 5.2L 64:1 <S> 6,400 700C Road Bike, 35mm tire width 2L 25:1 <S> 2,500 20" BMX Bike, 1.85" tire width 3L 37:1 <S> 3,700 <S> So, perhaps if it was a life or death situation, you have a lot of time on your hands, or you just can't afford that gym membership, <S> you might want to pump a few thousand times to fill your tire . <S> You probably don't. <S> By contrast, if you're just looking for this functionality in one device, you could just use a dual purpose model, such as this Specialized Pump , that can inflate both high pressure, low volume containers (like your shock) and low pressure, high volume containers (like your tire). <S> (source: bikeradar.com ) <S> You twist the handle to select between uses, and save yourself a few thousand pumps. <A> A shock pump is designed to fill a very small volume of space with very high air pressures. <S> You can technically fill a schrader valve tube using a shock pump, but because the volume of air for each repetition of the pump will be so low, it might take a week to fill the tire. <S> On a practical level, you should use a shock pump to fill your shocks, and a tire pump to fill your tires. <A> Absolutely, in fact I only owned a shock pump for two years <S> I was in the UK and was using it on my rides and at home. <S> The reason was that I also used it for skike tires which are high-pressure and low-volume and use the Schrader valve. <S> And alas, I did use it many times, my rims were horrible and would cut the valve regularly even after taping the sharpest edges. <S> Some models of shock pumps feature a knob allowing you to switch between a high-volume (nothing comparable to a floor pump!) <S> and high-pressure. <S> Mine current shock pump BETO MP-036 has this useful feature where I can start pumping at the high-volume mode and switch to the slower high-pressure mode around 50 PSI where it becomes too hard to pump otherwise. <S> Using the Presta-Schrader adaptor can be anoying. <S> Special care must be taken with valves that can have their inner part unscrewed. <S> It is easy to loosen it when unscrewing the adaptor and you will lose all the pressure immediately and the inner part with the adaptor may be shot away with the burst.
|
A tire pump is designed to fill a large volume of air, to relatively low pressures, pretty quickly. A shock pump will not mate with a presta valve at all.
|
BMX stem slipping; how to stop? I recently bought a BMX bike that currently has all stock parts. Recently, with the school and weather, I haven't been able to ride it that much. Anyways, when I picked it up from the shop, the bars were positioned leaning forward, not parallel with the forks, so I adjusted them. After playing around on the bike a bit, I noticed that the bars would slip forward if I put a good bit of pressure on them, so I completely removed the bars. In the stem there was a lube, I guess for the screws, which I mostly wiped off because I figured that wasn't helping the slippage. I also tightened the bolts pretty tight, and I had to use a hex wrench + a cheater bar to get them pretty snug... I could go further, but I don't want to snap off a bolt in the stem and have to buy another. So, does anyone have any suggestions on how to lower / stop the bars from slipping forward? I'd prefer to not cut grooves in the stem (unless it's the bottom, the bottom part of the bracket is completely smooth) but if that's what it would take I'll do it. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Note: I did tighten the bolts in the correct pattern <Q> Try sanding the stem and bars because most BMX company's paint there bars and stems all the way <S> so there is no grip. <S> If you sand the inside of the stem and the grippy part of your handlebars it should be fine. <A> If the parts move in spite of the tightening (with extra torque via the cheater and all), that shows there is sizing issue: the part is fully closed, yet the handlebar can still rotate. <S> You can use metal from a pop/beer can as a shim between the stem and the bar. <S> You will, of course, be losing whatever powdercoat finish is on that inside surface, though. <S> A similar thing is sometimes done with old engine heads to improve compression. <A> You could try wiping the grease in the stem off with some alcohol or thinners. <S> Even a little bit in there could be a problem. <S> I'd leave cheater bar alone and try and get them snug without using it. <S> Stems aren't something you want to fail suddenly. <S> Have you checked the dimensions of the bar and stem? <A> I had this issue once <S> so I cut an old tube (about 4" of it) then wrapped my bars with it and tightened the bolts tight in the correct pattern and my problem was solved? <S> A rubber shim I guess... <S> By using a tool for tighter leverage this may have ovaled the bars on it's own?
|
Also, perhaps the stem's clamp could be machined to shave a fraction of a millimeter from its mating surface, reducing the clearance in the handlebar channel.
|
How much smaller frame is ok? I'm looking to buy my first MTB and I had an online calculator tell me to get a 17.5". My measurements are height: 177cm and leg 76cm. Thing is, I found a bike that I REALLY want, but it's the last one and it's a 15.5" hence the good price. If I don't get this particular one I'll have to get something significantly lower spec as this is massively discounted. I don't intend on doing really long rides ever. Maybe 2 hours max. 1.5" difference doesn't seem that much.. Will this be ok or am I about to waste allot of money? <Q> You can use a bike that's "too small" or "too big" without too many problems, so long as you set it up properly for your own biomechanics. <S> Try using this fit calculator instead: <S> http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO <S> Compare the bike you really want with the results of the calculator. <S> It will give three separate options, and provide you with a rough idea of whether the bike is likely to be a reasonable fit for you. <S> 1.5" doesn't sound like a lot, but in the world of bike fit it can make a massive difference. <S> Ideally you want to work around things that don't fit by changing components, but you need to know first if changing the components will help. <A> Ride it, see if it's comfortable. <S> That's the only way to know for sure. <A> and, shall we say, avoirdupois. <S> Too short a reach and the torso must curl up, compressing the lungs and causing strain, and the ability to assume an aerodynamic crouch (if you would wish to do so) is reduced. <S> On the other hand, too long a reach places <S> a strain on the arms and back and significantly increases the pressure on the hands. <S> Moving the seat back to increase "reach" makes the angle between torso and legs more acute. <S> Up to a point this moves one closer to the "sweet spot" of maximum power from the legs, but this can go too far, plus the problem with an over-ample gut compressing the lungs is increased. <S> Moving the seat forward generally moves one away from the "sweet spot" and also increases the weight on the hands and arms. <S> Moving the handlebar forward/back to adjust "reach" upsets steering stability/agility. <S> A too-large bike may not allow the seat to go low enough, forcing the cyclist to slide side-to-side as he pedals.
|
A too-small bike may (in rare cases) not allow the seat to be raised high enough to attain full leg extension, or (more often) not allow the handlebar to be high enough for comfort. The most critical thing is the "reach" -- how far forward and up/down the handlebars are from the seat, relative to your torso and arm length
|
Are tow-hitch bike racks legal? I am considering buying a tow hitch and bike rack for my minivan to transport a few bikes for an upcoming vacation. I've read a few reviews of these bike racks, and many folks have said that their license plate is not visible with these racks. In the US, is there anything I need to get with my bike rack (license plate frame, extra tail lights, etc.) to make hauling my bikes legal? <Q> This will be state depended, and the law enforcement response is likely very localized (down to individual officer responses). <S> Where I live (outside US) it is illegal to have the numberplate obscured. <S> We have a choice to either temporarily relocate the plate, or we can buy a Supplementary plate. <S> In both cases we have no obligation for number plate lighting provided the main plate is in <S> it's correct place when that is not obscured. <S> As far as local law enforcement - the only problem is you will get pinged rarely - usually a cop who has not got his ticket quota this month. <S> Many people print there numberplate onto a piece of card and use that - whilst not legal I have not heard of anyone being ticketed for doing it, but i have heard of people being ticketed for not having anything. <S> Best option is talk to a local bike shop - the one you are buying the rack from - and ask them. <A> As others have indicated, vehicular laws vary from state to state and as such, laws about license plate display will too. <S> However, there is a lot of uniformity between states' vehicular laws. <S> You can most likely count on a couple things regarding the display of your license plates: <S> There is most likely a state statute dictating that your license plate must be clearly visible. <S> How exactly they define that will vary from state to state. <S> There is also most likely a statute dictating where your license plate must be placed. <S> I.e., not more or less than a certain distance from the ground. <S> And although I'm not aware of a state that does this, it's not unthinkable that there would be something requiring that the license plate be horizontally centered on the rear of your vehicle. <S> For example, I live in Missouri and <S> our laws say: 301.140. <S> Each such plate shall be securely fastened to the motor vehicle or trailer in a manner so that all parts thereof shall be plainly visible and reasonably clean so that the reflective qualities thereof are not impaired. <S> Each such plate may be encased in a transparent cover so long as the plate is plainly visible and its reflective qualities are not impaired. <S> License plates shall be fastened to all motor vehicles except trucks, tractors, truck tractors or truck-tractors licensed in excess of twelve thousand pounds on the front and rear of such vehicles not less than eight nor more than forty-eight inches above the ground, with the letters and numbers thereon right side up. <S> Again, the exact wording of your laws will be different. <S> You should really look them up. <S> You should also note that it is not just tow hitch racks that can obscure a license plate. <A> That said, can anyone cite any place in the world where they enforce those laws so strictly that a plate slightly and unintentionally obscured has even a remote chance of resulting in some sort of enforcement action? <S> Certainly nowhere I've ever heard of.
|
Pretty much every state in the US and most countries have some sort of law saying your license plate can't be obstructed. Many trunk racks will also obscure the plate if it is placed on the trunk and not the bumper.
|
How long will a battery last in a Garmin GSC 10? My relatively new Garmin GSC 10 Speed/Cadence unit has started losing connection to my Garmin 500. I'm assuming that the battery is running out, since I'm still using the original that came with it. I have done about 35 hours of riding. So I am wondering: how long should a CR 2032 battery last? I know this is a little subjective and will depend on ambient temperature and to a lesser extent speed and cadence for transiently illuminating the LED each pedal stroke/wheel revolution. But generally, how many hours can I expect to get from a battery? <Q> Right now I am at 159 hours of riding time on the battery which came with my GSC-10. <S> Garmin's stated battery life for the GSC-10 is 1.4 years at one hour of riding per day which works out to 511 hours. <S> (See page 51 of the Edge 500's Owner Manual ) <S> On the interweb I've come across two different suspected causes for low battery life on the GSC-10: <S> Some (mostly older?) <S> GSC-10's are susceptible to corrosion due to incomplete sealing of the circuit board inside the GSC-10. <S> If this occurs battery life is shortened due to an internal short which causes the battery to drain more quickly than normal. <S> This seems to result in faster than normal battery drain. <A> I've had my GSC 10 since 2008. <S> I used to get about 1 to 2 months out of name brand CR2032 batteries, but have since switched to Harbor Freight batteries. <S> I get about 4 to 6 weeks out of these <S> (a four pack of these costs about the same as a single name brand battery). <S> Like you said, it all depends on your riding habits and environment though. <S> The above is based on ~30 miles per day @ <S> ~15-18mph and ~80 <S> to ~95 rpm on average. <A> My experience with the GSC10 (though with an Edge 305 not a 500) has been that the batteries last 6 to 12 months, or roughly 2500 to 5000 miles of riding. <S> That works out to something like 125 to 250 hours of operation. <S> That is considerably less than what is stated in the manual, but in the ballpark of what the other two answerers experienced. <S> The symptom you described (losing connection with the Edge 500) is consistent with a dieing battery. <S> However, another cause could be poor alignment between the magnets and the sensor. <S> I've found that the cadence magnet, in particular, will not be sensed if it shifts by a centimeter, or so. <S> Since the Edge 500 can compute speed from GPS data, it's sometimes difficult to tell whether the GSC10 is really not sending data or simply not sensing the cadence magnet. <S> Make sure the cadence magnet is aligned with the embossed groove on the side of the GSC facing your crank arm. <A> 6 months on cheap brands- <S> and yes, there is such thing, esp bulk buys, and 1-2 years on medical grade ones - especially marked as medical grade. <S> Had at some point 5000-7000 kms on quality ones, and 1000 or less on bulk buys.
|
If you store your bike with either the cadence or speed magnet lined up with the sensor, the GSC-10 may not go to sleep after a short period of inactivity like it is supposed to.
|
Do I need to take my weight off the bike to lock out the suspension? I've recently bought myself a new mountain bike (my first since my schooldays...) and it has front suspension with a lock-out function. Suspension is new to me and I'm not sure how to use the lock-out. It seems I have to stop and take my weight off the bike to lock-out the suspension - is this correct? Or should I be able to operate the lock-out whilst sat on the bike and I'm just not turning the lock-out hard enough? As I'm not really sure, I've avoided turning it too hard in case I do some damage. <Q> Less expensive forks have a mechanical lockout. <S> This type of lockout is only usable when the fork is unweighted. <S> Think of it like trying to deadbolt your door when it's still ajar. <S> Higher end forks- <S> coil or air- use a hydraulic lockout. <S> There's a lot going on inside them but to simplify things a bit, there are two valves in the damper of most mid-high end forks that allow oil to pass through and both only work in one direction. <S> One allows oil to pass through when you hit a bump, the other allows oil to pass through on the rebound from that bump. <S> When you engage the lockout on one of these forks it basically closes the valve that allows oil to pass through when you hit a bump, however the rebound valve stays open allowing the fork to return to it's original position. <S> So back to your original question- <S> No, there is nothing wrong with your fork. <S> The lockout is working as expected and don't force it <S> or you might break it! <A> With an inexpensive coil sprung fork the lock out is often only usable with no weight on the fork. <S> So yours is probably working normally. <S> More importantly, don't forget to free it again <S> if you get enar anything bumpy, you can damage a fork like that. <S> (Personally, even with a remote lockout I rarely use it, except on perfectly smooth tarmac.) <A> You have the same fork i have on my 29er <S> Felt Nine 70. <S> I paid $70 extra for the ability, used it once, hit a ramped curb and landed hard, so I turned it off and never used it again. <S> If your new bike is under a grand and straight off the line, most likely you have a "cheapy" lock out system. <S> I just got a banshee spitfire with a pike and a crane creek inline db, and I can lock it out while riding. <S> Makes life so much easier when you don't have to stop pedaling to lock out the suspension. <A> If in doubt leave the fork locked out. <S> If it's a bolt action mechanical cheap version, then I'd take the switch off so it can't be locked on. <S> If it's not hydraulic lockout then don't bother. <S> Work on your smooth high-torque cadence and the lockout won't matter. <S> A good rider will be smooth and not bob up and down.
|
Yes, you have to unweight the fork to lock it out. Lockouts are most useful for sprinting and climbing, when your weight moves forwards and your putting in more effort that you don't want to waste.
|
How to carry skis on a bike? I don't have a car and think about biking to ski resorts. So the question is how to carry my XC skis on a bike. Have anyone tried doing this and what was the solution? Thanks. <Q> I have seen people trailer them, but for a local race here, many people go car free and strap them to the top tube extending back behind the seat, usually onto the rack. <S> Found many images using google image search for "carry skis on bike" http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5132/5471607772_40dc377ed0_o.jpg <A> Here's a DIY solution, adding a vertical ski tube to your rack <A> Very stable except in high winds. <S> No reason this would not work riding a bike. <S> Here is a pic <A> I myself just put my x-country skis and poles in a lightweight ski bag with a shoulder strap and rode short distances without issues. <S> Was even able to carry a mid-sized backpack alongside the ski bag. <S> The trick is to put the shoulder strap over your head so that the skis won't fall off or hit your bike. <S> There is a model made for cross-country skis, alongside ones for different types of downhill skis. <S> Though to be honest, the solution seems to be similar to other answers here about strapping the skis to the bike frame, except that the part of the skis strapped to the bike is protected. <A> Depending on the length of the skis a "Sandwich" of skis with the frame in the middle can work, using bungees to strap them together. <S> also if you have a rack over the rear wheel this will further support them... <S> Wouldn't try this for my old Downhill boards. <S> by my newer and shorter Slalom boards would do the trick. <A> The Burley Travoy trailer is an interesting design and is a good deal more compact than a traditional trailer. <S> The trailer folds down to keep it convenient while still being able to carry a good deal of stuff. <S> The benefit of a trailer mounted at an angle rather than parallel with the ground is that you wouldn't need to drag along the length of your skis - it'd only trail by a few feet. <S> In mounting skis you would have to angle them upwards so as to avoid whacking yourself in the head, but with the right arrangement of luggage <S> I don't see that as being a problem. <S> This might be the ideal option if you were to carry more than one pair of skis in addition to your standard gear. <S> Disclaimer: I am quite fond of my Burley Flatbed trailer and can attest to Burley's design, but have never used the Travoy (it generally gets pretty good reviews, though.) <A>
|
When ski touring we often carry skis on our backpacks - tied together at top and one each in loops each side. Surfers here in San Diego carry their boards to the beach with this little side or rear-mounted rack on their beach cruisers. However, I recently came across an interesting commercial product called the Gunslinger that also seems to solve this problem: https://defiantpack.com/products/gunslinger-ski-carry
|
Experiences of the Cannondale Headshok system? Does anyone have any experience of the Cannondale Headshok suspension system, where the shock is in the head tube / above the fork? Are they reliable? I'm looking at a Cannondale Bad Boy 2 (2013) and am concerned that if something goes wrong it could be hard to rectify.. <Q> I only know this system from older times, perhaps current (2013) systems have different qualities. <S> It uses a wider head tube, because the shock is placed in the steering tube of the fork. <S> Usually, you can install adapters to the frame, so that you can use a normal suspension fork. <S> The main difference is that, instead of using telescopic stanchions, it has a squared tube with needle bearings. <S> When new, this system has virtually no static friction, so it will be VERY responsive to minor and/or high-frequency road irregularities, such as cobblestones, rough gravel, and rooty trail sections. <S> If something goes wrong <S> it's usually the needle bearings themselves, which develop progressive "play", thus needing service/replacement, which in turn can become "complicated" since only Cannondale can service them or provide replacement parts, as far as I know. <S> Hope this helps! <A> I have experience of them, yes. <S> They are great, when they work. <S> Other than the Lefty, they are probably one of the better short travel cross country mountain bike forks if by best, you mean stiffest & lightest. <S> But you are considering a 'BadBoy' which is usually used on-road. <S> In this case, a fork, headshok or not, is at best a bit of a waste of time, and at worst, a costly mistake. <S> The dirty secret of suspension forks, Headshok, or otherwise, is that they need regular and quite specialised maintenance, and if you don't treat them right, they suffer, and eventually die, and it's expensive to repair / replace them. <S> Are they any less reliable than 'normal' forks? <S> No. <S> Do they suffer from the same problems if left unmaintained? <S> Yes. <S> If you ride on road mostly, and want comfort, go for bigger tyres and a rigid fork for simplicity & reliability. <A> No, they are not reliable in the long term. <S> I have the same problems with a Ultra fatty dlr Headshok on my cannonade Caffein 2006. <S> Bought in 2008, it worked one year, then leaking oil, air and finally corroded , to function as a "stiff" fork... <S> I had it repaired at a german hedshok repair specialist, called"team88" <S> , they replaced the whole air suspension cartridge and overhauled the needle bearing . <S> costs ca 300 Euro plus delivery... <S> Then functioned pretty well for 2 years, now again leaking more and more air, and the last weeks it can't be fixed by filling air anymore because it is flat after some hours... <S> Im not sure if i want to repair it once more or just change to a stiff fork. <S> Has been really expensive already. <A> I think the headset on the headshock system is propriatary and can't be used with existing 1 1/2in forks, but uses the same oversized headtube, so you can swap the headset with a standard 1 1/2in or use a reducer for 1 1/2in to 1 1/8in. <S> Sheldon has a page with some info on the system and links to manuals: http://sheldonbrown.com/cannondale-headshok.html <S> You could possibly rebuild it, parts are out there. <S> Honestly, unless you were getting a smoking hot deal, I'd avoid proprietary crap like this. <A> Headshok is super-stiff, light and solid. <S> There is virtually zero stiction and the damping is butter-smooth. <S> The guy who serviced it said I'll easily get another 15-18 years' use, as the updated bearings and seals are even better then original OEM. <S> I love the true, solid lockout knob. <S> One quarter turn and the fork is shut off. <S> I only get 2.75" of travel, but it's plenty for an urban application. <A> The bike mechanic suggested to avoid locking the shok. <S> It lasted about two years before I needed to start adding air every month or so. <S> One day it leaked oil everywhere, made nasty clunking metal-against-metal noises, the lock became non functional. <S> I took it to the shop, they fixed it somehow without replacing it, and it worked again for a few months before it started needing air added to it every week or every month, depending on still unknown variables. <S> It now failed again with the same symptoms, and it's completely collapsed: the shok doesn't have enough strength to support the bike's weight. <S> I have to take it to the shop again <S> and it's not exactly cheap to get it fixed. <S> I had known about this, I wouldn't have bought this bike.
|
So, If you can't service the fork, You should be able to swap out the fork if you get a reducer headset (1 1/2in to 1 1/8in), a new stem, and a new 1 1/8in fork. Headshock is pretty low travel, so you'll probably want a fork with low travel, an adjustable travel fork, or a suspension corrected rigid fork. I have a vintage, 2001 Bad Boy Ultra with Headshok and only recently re-built it (2013) – that's 13 years of reliable operation! The lock never really worked, it locked but there was always a very small move causing noise when riding over a bump. I have seen some problematic Fatty forks in the past, but I have also seen A LOT of people happily using Fatty and Lefty (which uses the same principle) without issue. I have Cannondale Quick CX 2010 with a headshok on a Fatty fork .
|
I have 27 inch wheels and need new inner tubes what size can I use I have 27 x 1 1/4 inch tires on my bike and need to buy new tubes. Can I use 700c or just 27 inch? <Q> The size of the tube is usually written on the box. <S> Tubes stretch a bit so they fit a variety of sizes. <S> For a 27 x 1 1/4 tire you would need one that says 700x32 which is the equivalent new size of tube, although both the old system and new system are usually written on the packaging. <S> This size is very common and you should be able to purchase the tube at any cycling store, or sports store that sells bikes. <S> Also make sure that you get the right valve type. <S> Schrader is the same valve that is used on cars, while Presta is the only found on bikes. <S> An older 27 inch wheel will almost certainly use a Schrader valve. <S> You should be able to see the difference quite easily. <S> Also, there are different lengths of valves, although those are usually only found on Presta Valves. <S> This can be a concern if you have deep rims. <S> I try not to use valves that are too long for my rims because its sometimes difficult to attach the pump in these circumstances. <S> Although having too short of a valves can make it impossible to attach a pump. <S> Here is a picture of a box showing the sizes of tires that the tube is designed for. <S> This tube will fit tires from size 700x25 to 700x32, or in the case where you have older wheels like yourself, will fit 27 x 1.00 to 27 x 1 1/4. <S> It has a presta Valve. <A> Just convert the inch width to mm to get the width of the 700C tube, if the box doesn't say the inch size. <S> Tires, of course, are a different matter -- there is enough difference in rim diameters between 27" and 700C tires (which don't stretch like tubes) that one will not fit the other. <A> I have peugeot 27 Inch wheeled bike. <S> The Original tube is Michelin Airstop 550x 32 -35A <S> confort 22x 1 3/8 <S> 32/37 -490 37-501.(not Schrader valves). <S> This is written on the tube exactly above in sequence. <S> Hence the metric figures.
|
If you don't have any in your area, you should also be able to purchase tubes at any department store that sells bikes. Yep, a standard 700C tube will fit a 27" tire (and most tube boxes bear multiple markings to indicate this).
|
Getting used to narrower handlebars Just switched from flat to drop bars which are narrower that the original flats. Also, to compensate the "depth" of the riding position, I took a shorter stem (60mm instead of 105mm). Because of these changes: The riding hands position is different (which was the purpose, but I am not used to it yet): the hands are "vertical" when riding on the "safe" positions (on hoods and on drops) and are when in the "unsafe" position (around stem), they are very close to the stem which is unusual for me as well The bars are narrower, so in any position, the hands are close to the center of the bars which feel very different The shorter stem also affect the feel of the direction As a result, in my tests, I did not have any problem per se , but my starts have showed to be a little "wobbly" (not riding completely straight on the 1 meter or 2) and on a general level I don't feel as safe as I used to. I am sure a big part of that needs just getting used to, but still, any tips? <Q> A big part of your problem is purely what you are used to and comfortable with, however wide, flat handle bars are used on comfort bikes and mountain bikes as they tend to offer more stability (at least, more perception of stability) than drops. <S> I never feel as stable on my roadie on drops as I do on my MTB with relatively wide flats - although on the roadie I never screamed down bumpy technical single track at insane speed, so do not consider the relative instability of drops. <S> However, hard to know if this is purely down to the bars, or the different the riding position, bike geometry etc. <A> Conventional wisdom says that your hands ought to be the same width apart as you shoulder bones, although personal preference should trump this. <S> It's a shame that for most of us it's not economical/convenient to get various combinations and try them out for comfort. <S> You can try different sizes in a shop, but other aspects of the bike may also change. <S> As a reference point, there's some discussion of handlebar size and how to measure your shoulders, here . <S> Unless you're way off the recommendation, though, you should spend some time trying to get used to the new set up as you suggest. <S> I'm sure you'll get more control as time goes on. <A> I think one possible issue is that you changed your stem. <S> Drop bars are "supposed" to put you in a more aerodynamic position. <S> From what I have seen, most drop bars go WAY front relative to the rest of the bike. <S> That way, you have two forwarded positions (the safe ones), and one "resting", taller position that you sould use only when actually 'giving a break' to your body. <S> I have assembled a flat-bar road bike recently, with a quite narrow (55cm) bar, and "by the numbers", I should use a 90mm stem. <S> It was terribly wobbly, and everything felt much better after I switched to a 120mm stem: the added "frontal leverage" provided by my body weight over the more forwarded stem made the bike much more stable going over and around obstacles on the road. <S> With a minor saddle foreaft adjustment, the bike became even more comfortable, too. <S> At last, try to research <S> (oldschool bike shop owners might be of some help) <S> what's the philosophy of drop-bars positioning, because I am sure you are supposed to use each one of them preferrably in some specific moments of the ride (which I don't know by the way). <S> Hope this helps! <A> You could always set off with your hands dropped down, so wider and more stable for those wobbly 2-3 initial metres. <S> i have tri bars on my bike - I have to remember to move my hands back to main handle bars, and never to turn to look behind me when I using tri bars, as very unstable!
|
Also, a longer stem adds more stability to the ride, because the weight of your torso, and the direction it is applied over the bars, tend to "self-center" the steering, thus reducing the perceived wobbliness of a narrower handlebar. Agree with last answer - some of it is just getting used to the narrower hand position. I've also read that, strangely, stem length can affect whether bars feel too narrow or not.
|
Anyplace sell bolts for SPD cleats? I have more problems with those stupid things getting stripped than you would believe. (Just ruined a shoe trying to get a stripped bolt out.) Anyone know if I can buy just the bolts, rather than the whole cleat? That way I can put a new one in every time I have to adjust it or it comes loose to, hopefully prevent that from happening. (I mean the MTB recessed ones) <Q> I usually ask my LBS when I need spare parts like that. <S> You might have to pay them a buck or two, but a lot of places keep a small stash of parts like that. <S> If that doesn't work, they might be able to order the part directly from Shimano (or ask your friends). <A> Ebay - if you can figure out the thread size, it's often the best/cheapest way for small quantities of stainless bolts. <A> As for keeping the bolts serviceable, one thing you may want to try is coating most of the bolt (including the hex recess) with a quality paste wax. <S> While it won't prevent most wear, it will help prevent corrosion of the threads and seating surfaces. <S> And, last but not least, apply thread lock, as mentioned by Gary above. <A> You can just look at the data sheet for the screw type and pick them up at your hardware store or go to your LBS and pick up something like the Sunlite Cleat Screw pack . <S> It looks like you need a countersunk M5 x 11.5 mm (which could likely be replaced with a M5 x 10mm or M5 x <S> 12 mm which are easy to get at Home Depot <S> - I'd probably go for the latter).
|
I had a problem finding a replacement bolt myself recently, including stopping at a local bike shop (which claimed not to have them) and did some searching--a good source I found was Bolt Depot .
|
How to cut carbon handlebars Last year, I installed carbon bars on one of my mountain bikes and I'm finding them too wide. I've been told that taping over the points you're going to cut at will prevent fraying/roughness, but what type of hacksaw blade should you use? Any other tips? <Q> At the shop we generally use a "normal" hacksaw blade. <S> I'd go with finer blade (more teeth per inch) <S> if there's an option. <S> Go slow and smooth (long low pressure strokes) and keep the blade perpendicular to the bars. <S> We tried these and switched back to hacksaw. <S> Happy Riding! <A> Additionally: To cut at a perfect rightangle, I use two 'lock-on' collars (the sort that come with ODI MTB grips) next to eachother with a small gap between them as a guide for the hacksaw. <A> I've had better luck with the purpose made tungsten carbide blades. <S> The teeth on a normal hacksaw blade tend to fray the carbon fibers more easily, especially with a low tooth count blade. <S> The carbide blades are less apt to cause fraying, but you still have to be mindful as you cut. <S> The other big part to cutting carbon is your own personal safety. <S> Carbon dust is nasty stuff that you don't want to inhale. <S> A dust mask is one way mitigate the dust, but it still goes everywhere just to be knocked back up into the air later. <S> Your best bet for keeping the dust out of the air is to spray water or rubbing alcohol (it dries quicker) onto the area you are cutting as you cut it. <S> This traps the dust and keeps it in one place. <S> Once you're done cutting you just wipe up the liquid and allow the area to dry. <S> Much tidier and better for your lungs and the lungs of your shop mates. <A> It was a bit tougher cutting than I expected. <S> But patience and no problems. <S> I'll echo the caution of carbon fiber dust. <S> I sprayed the area with water <S> and I still got "cotton" at the back of my throat. <S> But no fraying and some 150 grit sandpaper helped smooth the edges.
|
There are special carbon cutting blades. Let the blade do the work for you- don't bare down on the saw as you make your strokes. The tape will probably help but do take care removing the tape or you might cause the fray you're trying to avoid. I used a 32tpi hacksaw blade with a miter box from IKEA that they sell to cut their ceiling hanging curtain rail to keep my cut perpendicular to the bar.
|
Does a helmet-mounted light affect the safe functionality of the helmet? I am currently testing a bunch of lights for my (slowly) upcoming head lights review. Several of the lights can be mounted to a helmet using a mounting strap, like this: I'm wondering if having a light mounted on the helmet impacts its effectiveness in protecting from impacts. It seems that if the light hits the ground first, it might cause the rider's head to torque at a weird angle, or rotate the helmet causing the rider to hit their head when they might not otherwise. Is there any research or data on this, or are there any anecdotal accounts of helmet lights affecting helmet safety? <Q> I found something on the homepage of the Bicycle Helmet Safety Institute . <S> They have an article about bicycle helmet lights , listing the pros and cons of them: <S> Summary: <S> Lights on bicycle helmets can be useful, but must have a breakaway mount. <S> Especially about the breakaway mount: <S> The importance of breakaway mounts <S> The first and most important rule for mounting a light on your helmet is that it must break away readily when you crash or catch an overhanging obstacle. <S> If it does not, you risk having your neck jerked when it snags on the pavement or tree. <S> Besides jerking your neck, that can add to the g's of the shock to your brain when you hit pavement. <S> Although there are no studies mentioned how dangerous it is when the light does not fall off during a crash, some manufacturers test their lights to break away during a crash: <S> Only one helmet manufacturer we have spoken to provided their lab test levels, Uvex, proving that they actually have an internal standard. <S> And the light manufacturer Jet Lites has a standard requiring their mount to break away when loaded with a 5 pound weight. <S> This shows that it is important that the light falls off during a crash, but unfortunately most manufacturers do not care. <S> Which seems to be a problem: Some manufacturers use hook-and-loop straps to hold their lights on. <S> We have seen some that wrap through the vents and under that seemed unlikely to detach when they should have. <S> But again, there is no standard for that. <S> Source: <S> http://www.bhsi.org/helmetlights.htm <A> Answer : <S> Yes - anything on your helmet may affect its ability to function. <S> Remember the skiing accident that gave Michael Schumacher brain damage? <S> http://www.telegraph.co.uk/sport/motorsport/formulaone/michael-schumacher/10640839/Michael-Schumacher-skiing-crash-did-helmet-camera-cause-head-injuries.html <S> That was not cycling, but he managed to run his helmet into a rock, and the impact was focused and exaggerated by the gopro camera mount on his helmet. <S> Corollary : taking things off your helmet also interfere with its function. <S> The best example here is when the plastic outer layer gets a bit tatty or peels off completely. <S> Some riders may elect to remove it all, leaving a foam/polystychrene head-cup that looks as before, but will fail badly. <S> This looks okay, but if your head is sliding down the road, the foam will simply tear rather than absorbing and time-stretching the impact. <A> It is certainly true that adding bulk to your helmet has some drawbacks in crashes and such, and consequently warrants some concern. <S> In the incidence of a crash, solid, small objects that are fixed to a specific area of the helmet increase the distribution of force on mounting area, instead of spreading it away from the impact site. <S> However, my justification has always been this: a light can prevent just more crashes than not having a light <S> will save you once you have crashed. <S> Essentially, by using a head mounted light, you have more freely accessible light and can therefore be more aware of your surroundings. <S> Equally, your surroundings will be more aware of you. <S> These two facts combine to reduce the likelihood of crashing in the first place. <S> Also, I like to think that landing helmet first with a light attached is just like landing helmet first into a branch or small rock. <S> These are also likely occurrences in MTB riding, so I would assume helmets are designed with at least some thought on this sort of situation. <S> It mightn't be the case in reality, and I haven't confirmed this with standards, but hopefully saying this will give you peace of mind. <S> Seems like a good idea to me!
|
So yes, as far as personal experience has told me, a fixed light on your helmet can potentially do some harm in the event of a crash, but in the rest of the time spent riding, lights make helmets safer, and therefore makes riding safer.
|
Subsets and Splits
No community queries yet
The top public SQL queries from the community will appear here once available.