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Is a recreational bike sufficient for a 10-hour bike trip? I am planning to go on a bike trip from Chicago to Milwaukee in the end of June. Is my Trek Allant , a recreational bike, suitable for the trip? <Q> Your bike is definitely fine for this trip. <S> I've ridden further on a cheaper hybrid bike fully loaded, and I saw a few guys who rode the same distance on scavenged department store bikes. <S> For a 10 hour trip, I would try to pack light. <S> You should be able to fit everything in one pannier or a rack-top bag. <S> Get some electrolytes too, either a Gatorade or electrolyte powders/pills for your bottles. <S> Make sure you bring a decent toolkit enough to fix a flat, adjust your brakes, and include a small adjustable wrench, bottle of chain lube, and a spoke wrench (probably have this on your multi-tool if you've got one) just for good measure. <S> Zip ties are always handy for repairs and hacks on the road. <S> Don't forget a couple extra tubes, pump, and a patch kit. <S> I wouldn't rely only c02 for a long trip. <S> As for comfort on the bike, you will definitly want some padded shorts (and probably some chamois cream), some gloves, and eye protection. <S> A quality map as backup is nice in case your directions send you astray. <S> If you've got all that, then you should be fine. <S> Plan a couple stops to refill your water and restock on food if you're not familiar with the route. <A> Looks perfect, if the bike fits. <S> You won't set any speed records, but it's probably about as comfortable for the trip as you could hope for, and certainly rugged enough. <S> There are several different lists around of what to bring on a trip. <S> Depends in part on whether you'll have any "support" or not, but basically, in that part of the country, with a cellphone and money you're equipped for any problem. <S> (Though I'd recommend some rain gear, assorted foodstuffs, including some salty and some not, pump and patch kit, and as many tools as you feel competent to use.) <S> And, of course, plenty of water. <S> Take a break about every 15-20 miles to stretch your legs and let your rear end restore the blood flow. <S> (Looks like a fun trip!) <A> 152 <S> Km? <S> But since you ask this question, my guess is that you're pretty inexperienced with long-distance rides. <S> If you're in good shape, you can expect to do about 100 km/day. <S> And regular bike tourers know that you won't exactly reach that every day, either. <S> But to make this distance in one day, you'd need the kind of endurance that comes from already knowing you can make the trip! <S> Since I'm answering your question well after the proposed ride, I'd like to know how you fared in the first place. :) <A> There are three answers, to quote the Windows dialog box: <S> Yes - sure. <S> 150km isn't that far <S> and it's more likely that you'll fail before the bike. <S> No - if the you or the bike is in terrible shape, then one or other of you will fail to make it. <S> Maybe - in the same way as the general advice to a novice is to ask a physician for advice before this type of strenuous exercise, take your steed to a local bike repair shop and get their opinion. <S> You'll almost certainly be in bucket 1, although if you're asking the question, then assume the answer to bucket 3.
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Make sure you have a few water bottles and food for the trip. Sure, the bike would make it. If you plan to stop and eat, then you can carry a bit less.
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Cure for numb nuts? It's been about 5 years or so since I did any amount of bicycle riding to speak of. Recently, I picked up a mountain bike ( Giant Revel 2 ) and started getting back into riding around some local roads on a semi-regular basis. My goal is to work myself up to at least riding for one hour, three days a week. However, there's a small problem with this. It seems after about a half-hour on the bike, I begin to experience numbness in my genitals. This usually clears up within a few minutes of standing, off of the bike. What are some likely causes for this? Are there particular adjustments or modifications I should make to the bicycle or my riding technique to avoid it? <Q> Perineal compression? <S> - <S> http://www.livestrong.com/article/346680-bicycle-seat-nerve-damage/ <S> Basically, you need to change your saddle and/or your bike fit needs modification. <S> Very valuable information: <S> This usually clears up within a few minutes of standing, off of the bike. <S> This is very clearly telling you that either the bike fit or the saddle is entirely wrong. <S> My suggestion? <S> The issue is compression of the perineum which reduces blood flow. <S> Here's some light reading: http://www.medicinenet.com/script/main/art.asp?articlekey=84072 <S> According to Andy Pruitt's Complete Medical Guide for Cyclists <S> the issue is actually more common with recreational cyclists and not racers so much. <S> Apparently, racers tend to be lighter and so aren't supporting so much weight on soft tissue. <S> And also, tend to lift their hips off of the saddle frequently. <S> Andy Pruitt's key points for solving the problem are making sure that one has an appropriate saddle and especially good bike fit. <S> Generally he recommends that the saddle is at the correct height and usually horizontal. <S> However, for some individuals a slight downward tilt is optimal. <S> . <S> wdy <A> First thing to come to mind is poor bike fit. <S> Second is are you wearing cycling shorts?If you bought the bike at a local shop see if they offer a fitting service. <S> If they don't see if they will show you how to make some adjustments to the saddle height,forward-aft,and angle so you can experiment to see what makes improvements <A> As others have suggested, bike fit, padded shorts, anatomical saddle, etc. <S> When it comes to bike fit, consider the tilt of the saddle: try tilting the nose of the saddle down. <S> If it's above level, or even level, you'll exacerbate nerve compression with the small surface area of the nose. <S> Don't tilt it too far down or as you slip forward you'll constantly be pushing yourself backward on the saddle. <S> Further, examine the position of the saddle relative to the BB. <S> If the saddle is too far back, you'll be sitting on the nose - try moving the saddle forward such that your bum is resting on the wider section of the saddle. <S> Note that saddle position and tilt can affect the saddle height. <S> So write down your saddle height before messing around and readjust afterward if necessary. <S> Also consider your body position. <S> Are you resting your upper body on your handle bars, or are you supporting it with your core? <S> This will affect hip rotation. <S> The former causes you to roll your hips forward putting more pressure on your perineum. <S> The latter will rotate your hips back relieving pressure on your perineum and resting more on your ischium (I think that's the bone you'd be sitting on.) <S> You can work on your position by keeping your elbows rotated down, relieving weight from your hands, making a conscious effort to use your core, and a conscious effort to feel the effect of hips rotated forward and backward (as far as I can tell, rotating your hips back is done more with your lower abs, similar to thrusting your pelvis forward.) <S> All this considered, I still get numbness. <S> I compete, I ride a bazillion km/year, I've got padded shorts and an anatomical saddle. <S> Whatever. <S> Likely because I don't support my upper body with my core and roll my hips forward. <S> It's an aggressive position that I like, so I mitigate the issue by occasionally standing - if I'm on flats I switch to a high gear and turn over a low cadence, or I'll just rest my thigh on my saddle and coast <S> (I do this a lot riding in traffic approaching red lights and stop signs.) <A> If you're just getting back into riding after a long break, this is normal. <S> It'll still happen for a while - especially on longer and longer rides as you build up your endurance. <S> There may be some fit issues there, but if you get a saddle with a cutout and your fit looks good <S> (and there's no sharp pain) then you may just need to build up your tolerance a bit. <S> You want your seat to have minimal padding and let your chamois do the padding for you. <S> Additionally, if you're mashing your pedals instead of spinning you'll most likely experience unnecessary numbness from all the bouncing in the saddle. <S> If you find yourself bouncing, slow down and concentrate on spinning fluidly. <S> There are a lot of threads here on how to improve spin. <A> Read the link that Dan sent; it's frightening! <S> I used to get this 50 years ago, but bikes were were much more rudimentary then, and so were saddles, often made of hard leather. <S> I used to angle it <S> forwards <S> but then always had a re-adjust my sitting position every few hundred yards. <S> These days, saddles are so much better, so get a new and good one. <S> And also wear gel shorts which really help.
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Tweak your bike fit; then, seriously consider a new saddle. Cycling shorts definitely help this, as do not overly padded seats. An upward tilt is bad news for the perineum.
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I'm looking for options for carrying 2 children on the back I'm looking at the Yuba Mundo with 2 Bobike Junior seats to carry my 4 and 6 year old children. First, does anybody know if those seats will mount on a Mundo? Second, I'm open to all other recommendations, but would like to keep the cost under $2k, so I think that rules out the WorkCycles Fr8 and any bakfiets. (I've got a Mundo dealer here in Chicago but would consider having a bike shipped). thanks! <Q> Maybe you'd be interested in a moederfiets <S> (dutch for "mother's bike). <S> This page appears to be selling them: http://www.tmannetje.nl/index.htm?errors/404.htm~mainFrame <A> The 6 year old is capable of pedaling, and would likely enjoying so. <S> We have had success combining a single kid seat (the Yepp Maxi) with a Burley Piccolo on the back of a Yuba Mundo. <S> This required some a bit of custom welding for Piccolo attachment, but it has been well worth it. <S> This configuration gets used quite a lot by my wife and two kids. <S> Here's what it looks like: ''The children pictured there are ages 2 and 5.'' <S> I also have lots more photos of our "Yuba Train" . <S> One some of the close-up shots, you'll find more details about the DIY changes made to put this combination of things together. <S> My daughter was already riding like that at age 4. <A> The Mundo is a great Cargo bike. <S> The Bobike Junior seat base will fit on the rack without issues, but you may need to be creative in attaching the footrest portion, as you will not have the Bobike designed rack to work from. <S> At the price you are looking, I'd say this is a great option. <S> Shipping a bike is likely to push it well above that price, so I'd stay local. <A> I built my own front load cargo bike last February and love it. <S> I built it at a hacker space here in Madison, WI. <S> I had very limited experience welding. <S> If you don't have access to such a space it still is pretty inexpensive to hire a professional welder to help build you one. <S> I spent around $500 and have a totally custom bike. <S> http://tomscargobikes.com/tomscargobikes.com/BUILD_YOUR_OWN/Pages/BUILD_IT.html
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At age 4, the younger child can likely be carried with just some "stoker bars".
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Annoying clicking sound from the bottom bracket I just purchased a Fuji ACR 2.0 road bike from a guy who bought it three months back but didn't ride it at all. I brought it home and found that it is making a clicking sound when I pedal. The sound is coming from the bottom bracket. Please check the video for more details: Should I worry much about it? I'm from Bangladesh and there isn't any specialized shop where I can take it to be inspected. I have to do the fix myself. So before I jump in to open up the bottom bracket, I wanted to get advice whether I should ignore it and ride it for few days hoping that noise will go away... Video including full drive train: <Q> Is it happening only when you pedal backwards or forwards too? <S> I note you have a small spoke guard on the back wheel. <S> Take a close look at that. <S> It seems way to loud and plastic like to be a crank issue <S> but then again I'm not there. <S> All my crank issues have had a much more solid clunk sound and were not nearly as loud. <A> It is hard to identify the sound from the video. <S> In person it may sound different. <S> I have a similar FSA crank on my bike and <S> after some miles it was making a creaking/clicking sound. <S> It was different that what I hear in your video. <S> Collectively, these worked. <S> No more creak/click. <S> Please note, some models of FSA cranks require a "wavy" washer to be installed on the non-drive side between the crank arm and the bearing shield. <S> I don't know if this could be at the root of your issue or not. <A> I dont think thats IN the bottom bracket. <S> Its too sharp and hollow sounding. <S> Like something plastic. <S> Broken plastic bushing, some sort of guard, etc. <S> The second thing would be to remove the cranks. <S> These are new cranks, and will be a single bolt on the non drive side. <S> Non drive side will come off, and the drive side will slide out with the crank spline / shaft. <S> Now you can inspect both sides of the sealed bearings. <A> Kinda reminds of a RJ the Bike guy video, where one of the deraileur pulleys were not catching the chain correctly and kept jumping, causing a very similar noise. <S> You can check if this is the case by looking closely at the deraileur pulleys (I think in that video it was the tension (lower) pulley). <S> Let me try to locate the video in the meantime. <S> Edit <S> : Found the video -
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It might be cracked and when you back pedal the freewheel teeth might be catching on it. My friend tried three things to fix this: 1) tighten the chainring bolts; 2) lube/grease the crankshaft on the non-drive side; 3) remove the crank, and coat the threaded bearing holders/cups with anti-seize lubricant. My crankset made a noise when it was under load, i.e., when I was pedaling. IF you remove the chain, and examine the cables and crank arms, i suspect you will find something else.
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How to attach maps, etc to handlebars of a Boris Bike? (London bike hire scheme) How can I attach maps (or any routing tool) to the handlebars of one of the Boris Bikes (i.e. the 'rental' bikes in the Barclay's Bike Hire Scheme) in London? I tried cobbling something together: but I kept dropping my smart-phone (it nearly got run over by a taxi!) and to be honest the screen's too tricky to follow on busy London streets. I've ended up just using a hiking map holder and the print-out of the suggested route from their cycle journey planner : but this feels a tad eccentric. As you can see from the first of those pictures the handlebars are not an easy shape or cross-section to mount to. They are based on the Bixi cycle rental system that operates in Montreal and other Canadian cities, if that helps. <Q> Phone Attachment:I would need to get better views of the front of the bike. <S> Probably fab something starting with an existing mount (looks like you started down that direction). <S> Map Case <S> : It looks like you already have a map case, if not, do a search. <S> If you take one that will fit more or less in the gap on the bar and add some lengths of double sided velcro you should be in business. <S> May require a bit of playing around to find the best attachment points. <S> I'd start with medium loops at the bottom circling the bars about where they attach to the "stem area" (not a real stem on the Boris bikes) and a bigger loop going around the front plate. <S> If this tends to slide, you can add pieces of velcro at the back of the top strap coming down at an angle (think a 'K' rotated 90 degrees to the right) and securing underneath the map case. <S> Once you have it figured, you can wrap the velcro that is not actively sticking anywhere with some old jeans and run the sewing machine across. <S> This will help keep it all clean and make it so you aren't spending all the time unsticking it from itself. <S> Searches:'bike map case''velcro cable tie roll, 3/4" x 5 yards"' <A> I had a big clip that was supposed to be used to accept a ball attachment for like your windshield suction cup style cell phone holder <S> It had a strong spring and could be used to mount to that book holder basket thing, but for the life of me I can't find anything similar!! <S> I did a google image search for "motorcycle cell phone holder <S> " it sent back a HUGE list of things, some that might work (also googled "boris bikes" to see what I was dealing with: http://bit.ly/JhYO6a ). <S> I actually like your contraption, and <S> the holder seems like it could work if you got some hair bands, <S> those elastic rubber band things girls use in their hair: <S> http://bit.ly/JhZ7xI and wrapped a few around it. <S> Kind of Ghetto, but it should keep your phone out from under taxis!! <A> Updated answer: <S> The "Finn" phone holder: https://getfinn.com/ . <S> Cheaper at Amazon than direct, though smaller choice of colours.
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and you could just clip it to something like a basket or a laptop screen or whatever.
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If I report intentional dangerous driving to police, will it have any effect? Today I was riding ~3 feet out from parked cars (dooring is the most common way to get killed) and this pickup truck comes up behind me and just lays on its horn for an entire block. The driver was also revving his engine and coming within a foot or two of my back wheel. The driver intentionally cut me off forcing me to swerve to avoid the back of their truck. As he passed me the passenger rolled down his window and informed me (using very crude language) that I should get off the road. I have had three or four incidents like this in the last year and I am getting increasingly infuriated by them. They have all been on residential streets that drivers are using to avoid the city's arteries. I do my best to be courteous and don't accept this behaviour. I think that I need to do something so that I don't end up throwing my bike through someone's windshield doing something inappropriate. I have been considering getting a camera on my bike but wonder if this would be useful. Question: Has anyone ever contacted their local police regarding aggressive drivers? Were the police helpful? Would video evidence be useful? (I suspect that a camera would help to remember an aggressive driver's information even if video evidence was not required by the police). Question: In the case of an accident would video evidence be useful to press criminal charges against a driver? If I am injured would video evidence be useful if I wanted to seek damages in civil court? I live in Ontario, Canada. Related: "Is complaining to companies about bad driving like howling at the moon?" <Q> I'm convinced that the prevalence of cameras is changing the attitude of certain drivers. <S> For the last year or so, I've ridden with a helmet cam. <S> I'm now on my second camera <S> and I'm toying with mounting my old camera (lower definition, poorer lens) on the seat post to face to the rear. <S> It wasn't for this kind of situation, but it would certainly be useful as evidence. <S> If you search YouTube there are many, many examples of similar behaviour. <S> If the police can't or won't help, just publish the footage on the web - the driver will almost certainly never see it, but you never know. <S> I've had several situations where a rant from an angry driver has suddenly become an embarrassed silence when I've pointed out that they're being recorded and I'd be quite happy to post the results to YouTube, the police, their employers (this does work well if it's a work van or similar) ... <S> There have been several cases here in the UK where dangerous and aggressive driving has been prosecuted successfully solely on the basis of the cyclist's camera evidence. <S> On the civil side, I know personally of one accident victim who was knocked off his bike and whose claim was enormously aided by the footage from a cyclist behind them who had been wearing a camera. <S> Anecdotal, I know, but he is certain that the claim was processed more smoothly because of the video recording. <S> If this seems like a good idea, the answers to what-is-a-good-camera-arrangement-for-city <S> -riding or recommendations-for-inconspicuous-helmet-mounted-video-camera might be useful in finding an appropriate camera solution. <S> In the first case, though, I would definitely contact your local law enforcement agency. <S> You never know, maybe this miscreant has done it before. <S> If a handful of independent people all report them, there's an increasing chance of something being done. <S> And you're raising awareness in the police that there are people willing to stand up and complain. <S> It might also be worth talking to your local councilor - ask about what they might consider doing to make life safer for their electorate ... <A> This does a couple of things that will actually help rather then hurt (in most cases). <S> You are asking them for advice rather than being a "whining bike rider". <S> Most cops are good guys that want to help out, but if you make it official, they HAVE to do paperwork. <S> If you approach them more casually, often they will already know the offender and might just spread the word to their fellow officers that the driver of the particular truck has "already failed the attitude test". <S> Also, many cops are in shape and are bikers, runners, triathletes, etc. <S> Ask around <S> and I bet you'll find a couple in town that you can approach as an athlete first...again, by not making it official at first <S> , you may allow them to fix the problem without causing them problems. <S> On cameras: they are great for evidence, but do little to address the problem initially. <A> I had a similar incident (horn blowing, screaming, and attempted assault with his vehicle) and did report it with plate number and description. <S> The interviewing officer told me they'd have to identify me to the driver. <S> Since I didn't trust the him not to seek me out to retaliate, I only left it as a report in case of a future offense. <S> Then the officer tried to tell me I shouldn't have been riding there anyway (a main street, not a highway or other restricted place) then covered his butt by disclaiming: <S> "of course, I can't tell you not to ride there... <S> " <S> I got a sense of the "oh, it's only a bike..." <S> attitude. <S> Milford, NH PD, if anyone's interested.
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The cops may want it to get official as well, if they've gotten some complaints and want to shut the guy down be prepared to file a report. I would talk with the local law enforcement first rather then "reporting". They can't hurt, might help, but avoiding/fixing the problem needs to be priority.
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Is it a good idea to get a narrower front tire and a wider rear tire on a road bike? I am currently running Continental Grand Prix S 4000 in 23-622 / 700x23C front and rear. I am about to buy a new set of tires for my road bike and am fancying a smaller tire for the front and a wider tire for the rear. Actually Continental offers such tires as a set ( GP attack and GP Force ). Also note, that Motorcycles usually have a wider rear tire to support quick acceleration but still have dual disk brakes in the front to maximize brake force. I tend to ride fast in a traffic situation where the majority of bikes travels slower. So I am often underestimated and have to brake sharply. While panic braking my bike tends to pulling, which I have learned to manage. I suspect a wider tire to reduce pulling, by developing more grip in low load situations. The weight balance gets shifted to the front, when breaking sharply and therefore the front tire does not skid even with much break pressure. The back tire on the other hand does only carry little weight and skid with the same brake pressure applied. I am also facing periodical flat tires with a frequency of 1 per 10 weeks or so on the rear tire. I suspect a wider tire to pick up fewer glass splinters, by reducing the pressure. The rear tire carries the main load while non-braked riding and a wider one distributes the force to a bigger surface area thus reducing the pressure. Update Thanks for all the input. Your answers have helped me a lot in finding my decision. <Q> I'm currently running the Conti Attack/Force combo on my road bike. <S> I have previously run both the GP 4000, and the Schwalbe Ultremo ZX on the same bike. <S> The concept behind the Attack/Force is that the slightly wider (24mm) <S> rear tire will allow just a bit more comfort, and the slightly narrower front tire (22mm) will be a touch lighter with more reactive handling. <S> I feel a difference in comfort, but I can't say the handling was noticeably different. <S> Of course, the GP 4000 was pretty stable to begin with, so maybe that's a good thing that I don't notice a change. <S> They do feel a bit more stable in a corner, and I feel like the rubber compound is a bit stickier. <S> They say it's the same Black Chili compound used on the current GP 4000, so maybe that's psychological. <S> I can say that the comfort aspect is worthwhile, and there is nothing I have bad to say, so why not try them. <S> A set (here, at least) is the same price as a set of GP 4000's. <S> No loss, at least, and a bit of gain on the comfort side. <S> @DanielRHicks commented that you might need to worry about braking power or traction. <S> I've had no issues with braking performance, and these are a pro peleton tire. <S> I don't see any issue there. <S> I've also had no issues with flats on the tires, but then, I didn't have with the GP 4000 either. <A> Motorbikes have larger rear tyres in order to allow the 189bhp (in the case of an R1) which is significantly more than most cars (twice mine infact) <S> the twin brake calipers on the front is about the weight distribution under breaking (it all goes forward) and cooling, and pull (to one side) <S> It common on MTB to run a larger front tyre than rear, better front grip, and no way are you going to spin wheels due to lack of grip <S> I would not expect a change of a few mm to make any difference to your breaking performance, and the contact are, is a fraction of the carcase width, so I don't think puncture resistance would be improved, infact by running lower preasures <S> , i would expect a larger contact area AND snake bites <S> Bit along with all things like this, try it and see if it works <A> Just think if you will want to have that extra drag against you when speeding vs the extra drag for you when braking. <S> And keep in mind what daniel said in the comments. <S> most of your braking is in the front. <S> so changes in the front wheel will make more difference for panic braking. <S> maybe a wider front and slimmer rear is what you are really looking for. <S> I'd go for a lighter bike as it will help both cases. <S> Less mass moving, less inertia to break against. <S> Great excuse for an all carbon shenanigans :)
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More rubber touching the road means more drag, which will probably help with braking.
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How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack? How can I fit 6 bikes on a hitch rack for my Toyota Sienna van? Thank you! <Q> Here's a rack that will do six. <S> I have no personal experience with this one and the fact that neither of the top two rack companies (Thule and Yakima) do a six bike rack makes me think you should approach with caution. <S> [Link removed due to the old link being expired/stale. <S> The link was to a "Northshore 6 Bike Rack"] <S> I have seen, with mixed success, 4-bike bike racks where folks have strapped an additional bike into the mix. <S> Again, proceed with caution. <A> I don't have any experience with hitch racks holding more than 4 bikes, but I do have an option that you may not have considered. <S> Forget the hitch rack and buy a small utility trailer. <S> Most hardware stores sell trailer frames like this to which you can add a simple plywood box enclosure ore something more elaborate. <S> It looks like the market for a 6 bike rack is fairly small, and the racks are expensive ($700+ US). <S> Difficulty accessing the rear doors of the vehicle. <S> Rattle, hum and road shake as the torque/lever forces shake the bikes on the rack. <S> If you decide to go the trailer route you can use plans like these to build your own PVC racks to keep the bikes upright. <A> Keep in mind that hitch racks intended to carry large numbers of bikes (including the North Shore six bike rack) tend to require heavy duty 2" receivers. <S> Ensure your vehicle is properly equipped. <S> If you have room inside the van, you can use one of these to carry a few bikes (perhaps in addition to 4 bikes on a more typical hitch rack): http://www.biketote.com/store/category.php?category=12 <S> I use the Bike Tote in the back of my Toyota Tacoma pickup to carry two bikes. <S> It works well <S> -- it holds the bikes securely, and is very easy to install/remove the rack to/from the vehicle. <A> A trailer sits on the ball and cannot twist the hitch, a rack adds twisting forces in all directions. <S> The end result <S> (I have a mate who manages a bike shop) can be pretty expensive <S> - like the guys who's hitch (with 4 bikes on the rack) failed while being followed by a 30 ton B-Train. <S> Luckily for him the remaining scrap metal only damaged one truck tire - you would think the cost of replacing the bikes was all you need you worry about..... <S> The addition of 6 bikes on the back of the vehicle will also upset the balance. <S> Most cars have a ball weight limit - some as low as 60kg, few above 100kg. <S> I imagine your van is on the higher end of the scale, but 6 heavy mountain bikes + rack will be close to 100kg. <S> (if you are US/UK and think pounds, thats 130lb - 220lb). <S> You may find you are overloading the hitch and voiding warranty / breaking laws / voiding insurance <S> There is a reason most manufacturers stop at 4. <S> Above 2, they almost always recommend/require straps and heavy duty hitches. <A> Well, not to encourage spammers, but the Totem Pole is an interesting design. <S> It does have the advantage that the weight is carried fairly close to the vehicle, so there's less torsion on the hitch -- maybe this isn't sufficient to really allow the weight of 6 bikes to be carried, but it likely handles 4 better than the standard horizontal beam rack. <S> I would be a bit concerned about carrying the bike's weight solely from the front wheel, as this design does. <S> At the very least you'd want your bikes to have "lawyer lips", and on a long ride I'd be concerned about stressing/distorting the wheel. <S> Plus it's not clear (despite the cavalier statements to the contrary) that bikes wouldn't bump/rub each other while being jostled on a rough road. <S> Also, the rack probably has trouble with kids bikes, since the wheels will not hit the bottom bar. <A> I also have a Sienna. <S> I put two bikes in upright racks on the roof. <S> And, as someone else said, can you put any inside? <S> That's what I usually do if I don't have people in the third seat; I can put four bikes inside if I arrange them carefully.
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If you do, you need to strap the top of the rack to the roof of the car, and strap the rack and bikes to limit the twisting forces in the hitch. The hitch is not designed to take the kind of forces that 6 bikes can produce. I am sure you could buy a small utility trailer for much less, you would be able to haul at least 6 bikes plus equipment and you would have none of the drawbacks of a hitch rack like:
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I need help replacing my bike's tube I recently popped the tube in my front tire and need help replacing it. I don't really know very much about bikes or the assortment of numbers on tubes, tires, and wheels. Here is what I do know: The tire that popped has 700x35/43C on it. The spare that I got when I bought the bike has A2 25/32 x 622/635 on it. I was told that the spare is not the right size for my bike. I inflated it just a bit to see what it looked like in my tire and it does seem a bit small as it looks like it has a bit of room. . I just got a spare tube that has a schrader valve and learned that those cannot fit through the hole in my wheel. I'm not sure but I think this is the type of tube I need to get http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Bicycle-Presta-25-35c-27-Inch/dp/B002K2DQ4S/ref=sr_1_10?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1337452869&sr=1-10 700 x 35-45c or 700 x 25-35c as I was told I need 35 to be in the range of the second set of numbers. Is this correct? Can I get these with a presta valve in a store (like Target, Walmart, etc local large merchant) or should I just order and wait? For additional info: My actual wheel says it is 622x17 6061H-T6. On the inside of the wheel groove it looks like it is stamped 900x16. It looks like the tire name and brand is Alexrims G6000. It is a hybrid bike. <Q> 700C (or 650c, 26", 29", etc) is how big around the tube/wheel is, while the x23,28 or x30-42, etc are the width range. <S> You want to find one that, as you mentioned, includes the target size within the range and is a match on size and valve type. <S> Based on the "replacement" not fitting, I'm thinking your wheel is a 700c/29" and you are most likely looking for the right tube: <S> 700x[range including 35] with a presta valve. <S> That said, if you have a local bike shop, swing in there and the bike mechanic can make sure you are getting what you need. <S> In most cases, the tube is going to cost the same (it's actually cheaper at the LBS <S> I hang at as they buy tubes in bulk and sell them at close to cost) and you will be sure to get the right item. <S> Bonus: <S> Ask the mechanic if he'd mind coaching you through changing out the tire. <A> You can stick just about any tube into any tire. <S> Some of the weight freaks will buy a 24" for a 26" wheel, I even had a friend use a mo-ped tube in a BMX tire, just shoved it all in there. <S> It works, but the problems you will have are not worth using them for anything more than a temporary "emergency" fix until you can find the proper size. <S> Using one too small will stretch it thin in places and might result in herniation which could lead to a blow out (very bad if you are going fast). <S> Walmart is convenient and cheep but sometimes they use inferior suppliers <S> and I have bought a few tubes that have separated at the seams. <S> I prefer to pay the extra $2 and go to an actual bike shop and get the better tubes, the pain saved in doing it right <S> the first time is worth it. <S> When you are looking for the numbers you will want to make sure that you are getting "700 x 35-45c". <S> Some tubes can be used on more than one size of tire, just be sure that number is somewhere on the box, and also why going to a real bike shop <S> is useful <S> , they can make sure you get the proper size. <S> Also, as you can see in the first picture, most tubes will have the size printed on it, usually in white, the numbers in that second picture are not usually what you are looking for. <A> I don't know if department stores like Walmart carry Presta tubes. <S> You had a Presta and need to replace it with a Presta. <S> I like thorn resistant tubes. <S> They are heavier and more expensive but will usually go 10 times further without a flat.
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Any bike store, and probably any Walmart/Target/etc, will have what you need. The size you need is 700x35 or 27x1 3/8. Someone who has changed a couple hundred tubes can usually give you pointers on how to roll the tire back on without tools, hot to prevent a pinch flat, and how to make the whole process quicker and easier. Using a tube too big will cause pinching and could result in a snakebite like flat.
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Why doesn't "butt soreness" affect serious cyclists? Over time, my seat (butt) has been broken in by my saddle. I don't have a callus, and nothing obvious has changed. Physiologically, why doesn't riding cause seat soreness anymore? On the flip-side, what does a saddle do to a less-experienced posterior? Is soreness caused by something as simple as bruising, or is there some other effect going on? EDIT: To clarify, I am referring to muscle soreness caused by the saddle rather than soreness of the skin (e.g., saddle sores). The question is about why the soreness doesn't affect experienced cyclists who have adapted (over the course of many months or years). <Q> Quoted from Wikipedia: When sitting, the weight is frequently placed upon the ischial tuberosity.[2] <S> The gluteus maximus covers it in the upright posture, but leaves it free in the seated position. <S> Essentially, there is very little sub-cutaneous fat or muscle tissue covering the sit bones while sitting on a bicycle saddle and thus little "padding" between the skin and bone. <S> So, when you go through periods of not riding or are new to riding, that region is not adapted to compression and impact from the saddle. <S> After riding for a while, the bone, tendons, and muscle in that region adapts by strengthening in that region, and no doubt vascular and nerve changes occur as well. <S> What happens in the case of an inexperienced cyclist or one getting back into cycling, is that micro-damage occurs to the bone, muscle, tendons and other tissue in the area. <S> The micro-damage leads to inflammation and thus pain/soreness. <S> At that point, the the tissues begin to repair and strengthen. <S> The bone is thicker and stronger, the muscles/tendons are stronger, nerves are adapted to the stresses, new blood vessels, etc. <S> Once those tissues have remodeled and healed, there is no more soreness. <S> (Actually, the process can happen again if one goes say, riding for 3 hours to riding for 6 hours, but usually won't be as bad the second time around.) <S> It's pretty much like any other area of the body that goes through the adaptations from not being exercised to being exercised. <S> To some degree, the issue is similar a bruise, but it's much more like the muscular/skeletal adaptations that occurs from exercise. <A> Here's my theory based on things that do happen in other areas of physical existence that I think are similar. <S> That soreness is actually just discomfort from interrupted flows of vascular systems. <S> You can see similar effects from sitting Japanese style on the floor on your knees. <S> If you keep doing it, eventually your body gets used to the new position, begins flowing elsewhere to compensate, and the soreness is relieved as you have no systems suffering from the lack of flows. <S> Interestingly, this is less prevalent in very young children, who are both incredibly flexible, and do not have established paths of preference for blood. <S> A lot of pains we have come this way, especially if you're like me and sit around most of the day. <S> I actually thought about this when cuddling with the wife last night because of your question. <S> It's probably the same thing that causes my arm discomfort as she lays on it, but I never get used to it because after a brief while of it becoming annoying <S> I usually shift out of it. <S> The same thing happens to a lot of traditional martial arts students. <S> They don't sit in seiza for very long, so they never have to get used to it. <S> I imagine the same thing would happen if you only biked for 10-15 minutes instead of forcing yourself to endure it for a while and acclimating. <A> As I've remarked several times, part of the "break in" involves pulling the hairs from your butt. <S> Shaving your butt short-circuits this step and lets you tolerate long rides much better, with less "break in". <S> Of course, there are other factors -- you need to develop some "inner calluses" in the areas of most pressure. <A> Not directly to the point of the question, but it should be pointed out that, among other things, "serious" cyclists "self-select": If a person is genetically inclined to have a sorer than normal butt, they're less likely to stick to cycling and more apt to engage in some other sport.
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So, one gets sore at first, but as muscle/skeletal tissue adapts, one is not sore later on. When seated on the saddle, your weight is primarily supported (or should be) at the ischial tuberosities which are commonly known as the "sit bones". It's the hairs, all tangled together, that create most of the "butt burn" that you tend to experience on longer rides. And you also just need to develop your riding style and the strength in your arms and legs to enable you to remove some of the pressure from your butt.
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What type of saddle doesn't hurt the pelvic bone? I have been having issues with my pelvic bone when riding my bike. I have a very good bike, and the saddle is wide, but after riding 10 minutes my pelvic bone kills me to the point that I have to stop riding to rest it. I want to be able to ride more than this but am confused on which saddle to purchase. Some sites tell you to use a narrow seat, and others say a wide seat. What type of saddle should I look for? <Q> Saddle comfort can be tough to get just right and is very individual. <S> You might just have to try a few saddles out... <S> Sheldon Brown has a lot of great information about saddle comfort here: <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/saddles.html <S> Are you just getting back on a bike after not having ridden for a while? <S> Your backside has to get used to a saddle. <S> If you haven't ridden in a while, do some short (1 or 2 mile) rides and slowly increase the distance. <S> Try that before you try replacing the saddle. <S> Those short rides in the saddle won't just help your backside break into the seat, they'll help get your riding strength up, so that more of your weight is on your feet and less on your pelvis. <S> How wide or narrow a saddle depends on your anatomy, your flexibility, your riding posture and your riding style. <S> Basically you want the saddle as wide as you need it to be, but no more. <S> Any extra width is likely to lead to chafing or soreness from the saddle pushing into things. <S> Your pelvis has two knobs at the back of a triangle with the point forward (essentially). <S> Sitting down on a stool or chair, you tend to have your weight on those knobs. <S> If you're sitting with your lower back fairly straight, you'll want a saddle that supports those two knobs, probably with a bit of padding right there. <S> If you have your pelvis rotated forward so that you're not sitting on those knobs and are instead resting your weight on part of that triangle, you'll want a narrower saddle. <S> You want just enough that whichever pelvic structure you're sitting on is on the saddle, with fairly little saddle to the sides of that. <S> And don't just go for the saddle with the most padding. <S> A lot of people like a little padding on their saddle, but too much padding will just sort of squeeze into all the other sensitive tissues down there, which can be uncomfortable and cause nerve pinching or circulation issues. <A> Hmm...I would head to your LBS and check your Sit bones to make sure your saddle is big enough. <S> Most shops have a measuring device that allows to see where your sit bones are. <S> I think investing some time, money into your saddle is very important. <S> I recently had to change my saddle and went with a Specialized Romin as the saddle was too small. <S> Good Luck. <A> The saddle with the right width, and with a "valley" for the crotch area will feel comfortable. <S> This can be a leather saddle after break-in (ex. <S> Brooks B17 or B67), or an anatomically designed saddle, like SQ Lab. <S> Both need to be of the right width for you. <S> If a saddle is too narrow, you will get sore, my experience shows that about 4-5h a day with a too narrow saddle is my limit. <S> If a saddle hits you around the crotch area, it will cause pain, and you cannot ride more that day. <S> My experience is 1-2h is enough to make pain in this area, and I start feeling "I want to get off" after 5h it is terrible, and I don't want to ride for days. <S> See my response on this post about the details on sitbone width, and crotch area. <S> Breaking in a Brooks B17 - sitbone width, crotch
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Get a saddle with just enough padding.
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Why is my chain riding up and skipping teeth on the freewheel? Due to a number of reasons, I would like to keep my freewheel at all costs (It's a Sachs freewheel, the bike has all sorts of more 'vintage' components, and they're hard to come by). From reading all the related questions, it seemed the solution would be a new chain, and the teeth certainly don't look worn enough (to me at least) to warrant the freewheel needing replacement. However, with both a brand new 7/8 speed chain, and the older slightly worn chain (0.140 in elongation over 12 links), the chain rides up as shown on the teeth when torque is applied. It doesn't happen in the highest gears, or when it's upside down and I'm adjusting derailleurs. The chain is also not touching any adjacent gears due to derailleur misadjustment. As stated, I will try ANY reasonable options before replacing the freewheel. I've certainly ridden more worn out cogs without this problem. Should I just try a different new chain? Or is this more seriously worn than I judge it to be? Additional Pictures added on request: <Q> Need better pictures to get a clear idea as to what is going on here, but assuming that the chain tension is good and the derailleur spring is okay <S> , I'd check to make sure your derailleur hanger is straight. <S> Checking the hanger is easiest with the right tool, it's a bit pricey ($60 - search on "Park Tool Derailleur Hanger Alignment Gauge - DAG-2") <S> so best bet would be to hit your local bike shop and have them lend a hand. <A> I do note that in your shots you have the front on the granny and the rear on the small cog, meaning that your chain tension is very low. <S> One generally should not ride in this configuration, of course, but shift to a larger ring when near the small end of the cluster. <S> Can't tell if the hanger or derailer is bent -- it kinda seems to be in the bottom shot, but from that angle it's hard to tell. <S> Look straight down at the derailer and cluster, and then straight on from the back, and make sure everything is parallel. <S> (A bike shop has the tools to check this, but you can often see a lot by just looking.) <A> This chain has offset links, Throw is away, flat linked chain willfall nicely onto the cog. <S> The rounded links here are catching and ridingthe sides of the cog...Guaranteed. <A> You might want to make sure your chain still bends at the links where you pressed the pin back in. <S> Smashing it together too hard is easy and that will "freeze the chain straight at that point. <S> This of course will cause a skip. <S> I'm not an expert, but the freewheel looks pretty solid to me. <S> Still has the chamfers ground out on the trailing edge without any distortion.
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Especially on older derailleurs, this can allow the chain to be received by the cogs at an angle whereby the cog above and/or cog below can 'trap' the chain. The smallest cog appears to be rather badly worn (hard to say for sure without a shot from the side) and the second smallest is sorta worn, but otherwise the cluster doesn't appear to be very worn at all.
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Do I need to replace hydraulic fluid in my brakes? I've had my bike (GT Avalanche 1) for maybe four or five years now. I've changed the pads once, removed and cleaned all parts on the bike a few times now, but I've never touched the brake fluid. Does this need to be changed, and if so, why and how? I couldn't honestly say whether performance has deteriorated over time - they still stop the bike and I don't notice any fade - I'm just curious. Brakes are Tektro Auriga Comp. <Q> Mineral oil based Hydraulic fluid will build up water condensation in the hoses over time. <S> How much time depends on a lot of factors, like humidity, temperature, bike storage conditions, and similar things. <S> After 5 years, I would expect that the level of contamination would be high enough to be noticeable, and that the fluid should be replaced. <S> The specific instructions for that brake are found here . <A> Contamination of brake fluid (bikes and cars actually) is caused by exposure to air and dirt. <S> Sealed lines should be good for 5 years easy,if not longer. <S> I would only replace if the lines got a crack or cut in them. <S> Because bike brakes have a very solid seal, and no real massive reservoir, they are less prone to contamination then a car. <S> Since cars have a large reservoir usually under a simple pop top or screw cap with a light seal, they see a bit more dirt and air in the fluid. <A> This problem is more severe with DOT type fluid, but can occur with either, especially if the bike is used/stored in wet conditions. <S> Keep in mind that the size of the reservoir is proportional to the size of the overall brake system, and really has little bearing on how rapidly contamination may occur. <A> Late posting as the accepted answer (zenbike's) is just wrong. <S> Unlike DOT fluid, Mineral Oil is hydrophobic and does not absorb moisture from the environment. <S> Taken from this article , which contains a lot of information on brakes' oils. <S> Your brakes being Tektro Auriga, they use Mineral Oil . <S> As a result, it's totally possible that your brakes keep on working properly after five years. <S> Especially if your bike has been looked after. <S> If the lever travel didn't change notably and you still feel the same response, there is probably no need to bleed them.
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The main reason for replacing the fluid is not because brake performance may have become worse, but to prevent corrosion of brake components due to water in the fluid. Replacing the fluid about every 5 years would seem to be reasonable -- not a terrible burden, and not being over-zealous. If your lines dont leak, you should be set.
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Need advice on choosing the right folding bike I'm looking for a bike for about half an hour of use a day in town. Don't have room in my flat so it will be a folding bike, and it has to cost less than £200. I consider buying this one Is it a good choice, or are there better options in the same price range ? <Q> There no bike on the market that is very good at folding and also very good at “biking”! <S> So you have to decide if you care most about the folding or how well it works as a bike. <S> For a bike to fold into a small space it must have small wheels. <S> Small wheels are never as good a ride as full sized wheels. <S> The Brompton is consider to be one of the best folders about if you care mostly about the “folding” side of the equation, however it costs a lot more than £200 unless you get a very good deal on a 2nd hand one. <S> For £200 <S> I think you will have to look on the 2nd hard market for anything good. <S> However even a “bike shape object” is better than walking or sitting in a road jam! <S> You will also not be able to take it on most public transport as it does not fold small enough. <A> I would go with a Dahon myself such as this one: Dahon Eco Dahon has been around for a long time and is well known for manufacturing folding bikes. <S> I have a friend who uses a similar bike to commute more than an hour each day. <S> It is fairly reliable. <S> He travels mostly on side streets. <S> and only when I can use side streets. <S> Beyond 5 km and/or when I have to travel via arterial roads, I use a cyclocross bike with bigger 700c wheels. <S> The Brompton is just too slow to travel safely in my opinion on arterial roads where I live where the speed limit is 60 kph... <S> most cars do more than that though. <A> The bike has some serious problems. <S> We make more money from repairing Dahon than selling them. <S> I hope it helps <A> You're going to struggle to find a decent folding bike in that price bracket. <S> I ride a Birdy and a Bike Friday both of which are great riders but cost me over £500 second hand. <S> I've got a Moulton F-frame Stowaway too but these are rare and also probably too expensive. <S> How about looking at an old Raleigh 20 (or similar) from the 1970s? <S> I've ridden a few of these and passed them on to friends later. <S> (I've got a tandem version now). <S> I've found the ride position to be good. <S> The 3 speed hub gears are indestructible and you can pimp them endlessly if you want to later. <S> Look at Sheldon Brown's website for ideas. <A> No first-hand knowledge, but I've read that the Brompton and Bike Friday are decent folders. <S> Many others (eg, Citizen) are not. <S> If at all possible, ride before you buy. <S> Many folders force you into an awkward posture. <A> Mezzo D9 here. <S> Lots of problems, and it's not even a cheap bike. <S> Like the other posters say, Brompton may be the only way. <S> I've owned 4 folders thus far.
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My advice is that you buy the best you can afford, and the best folding bike by far is the Brompton, it wil last you decades. I myself uses a Brompton M6R but only for short range commutes or for multi-modal commutes where I would only ride a maybe maximum of 5 km one way The bike you have linked to I would put in this category, check you are happy with its weight if you have stairs to need to take it up. I work in a well known high street cycle shop, and from my experiance customers who've bought Dahon have had nothing but problems.
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Which Crank Brothers cleat do I need? I ride these pedals: which came with these cleats: Now I see that Crank Brothers are selling their "Premium" cleat: I'm ready to replace my cleats. Is the premium cleat compatible with my pedal, or do I need to stick to the earlier style? Do the 'wings' on the original cleat offer something that I need? <Q> Per their webiste - compatibility: eggbeater , candy, smarty, acid, mallet ( <S> http://www.crankbrothers.com/accessories_premium_cleat.php ) <S> Some good FAQ on these from Crank Bros: http://www.crankbrothers.com/support/faq_candy.php <A> Premium cleats are a harder material, and will last longer than the cheaper brass cleats. <S> both fit the same, and both offer the 15 or 20 degree float option based on mount position. <A> I talked with CB about the cleats that do not have the side to side adjustment ability and <S> the answer was that early eggbeaters cleats had just two holes and no side to side adjustment and that was to save weight. <S> So if you see cleats like that, they must be from a few years ago. <S> But they work just as well. <S> I am guessing they found out from rider feedback that some side to side adjustments where required depending on the shoes (wide or narrow sole) you had. <A> The cleats and pedals I have look just like yours, except more used. <S> I love them. <S> I've used egg beaters on all my bikes for the last 5 years or so. <S> They shed dirt, they're easy and quiet to clip in and out, and except for one broken spring on an older pair, really reliable. <S> (FYI, some of the older eggbeaters didn't have wrench flats. <S> The ones in your picture do, but check before buying.)
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To directly answer your question, yes, the Crank Bros Premium Cleat is the one you want.
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Why do I ride so lousy after a tour? I'm a male, 44, "fast" (?) recreational cyclist, who has been doing week long -- mostly 50 to 80 miles/day -- tours for about 15 years. While I love touring, I have come to dread the aftermath . . . namely, that for at least 6 weeks following the tour, I ride and feel like a, uh, piece of crap, for lack of a cleaner phrase. Can't fully explain it. Sort of like I'm running on fumes, or with one less cylinder. Power output could be up to 15-20% less for a given hard effort, or so it seems. I ride pretty well during the tour. I take a week of recovery rides following it. Seem to still feel OK then, its the second week that it really hits me. I keep hearing how a tour -- or stage race -- will bring one's fitness "to a whole new level," etc. All these years, and I have yet to experience anything close to that! So, any ideas, suggestions, etc.? Only things I can think of: perhaps since I'm not doing hard intervals during the tour, I'm stating to lose fitness then? (My tours are usually in mountainous areas, so its not that I'm just riding easy, but I try to keep my pace on the climbs under control.) The recovery week following then exacerbates that loss? Also, I'm a mailman who has to walk 7 - 8 miles/day up God-only knows how many hills and steps, which I guess makes getting a "full recovery" pretty much impossible. <Q> My theory is endorphins. <S> Our bodies generate them when we exercise. <S> Or not, when we stop. <S> I suggest you not try replacing them with synthetic endorphins as those are illegal and tend to be more addictive. <S> There's also a body habit transition, where a bunch of the cycles in my body are set up for big exercise every day and suddenly I'm back behind a desk 8 hours a day. <S> Half an hour each way does not cut it, I'm barely warmed up by then. <S> So I bloat (very thirsty in the morning but then water retention), <S> feel stiff but twitchy, and after the first couple of days tend to lose interest in food. <S> This is my body saying "hey, you used to exercise, what happened to that?" <S> What works for me is: tapering the tour rather than spending the last couple of days riding really big distances to catch up after stopping to smell the roses earlier on taking the long way home from work (ride an hour or more) <S> eat junk food when I get home (swap endorphins for sugar, fat and umami) <S> stretching (yoga, martial arts) taking one day mid-week to go for a long ride <S> For me this is pretty much automatic now <S> , I get home and hit the supermarket for all the food I couldn't really get or prepare while touring and the long ride is often a freebie when I go to pick up all the extra cr <S> ... stuff <S> I took but posted home mid-ride and is now sitting in a post office somewhere on the other side of the city. <S> The twitchyness means I do tend to get out and do stuff, often after a tour I go into a burst of deferred maintenance around the house or just go for long bike rides. <S> One thing that I find helpful is to take a mid-week day off after I get back and do something energetic. <S> That means I have two days behind a desk, a day running round, then another two days. <S> It means I'm more able to actually sit behind the desk and focus. <A> I know a little of what you describe since I do an annual tour (coming up real soon now) and I always feel "off" for a few weeks after. <S> I suspect that the problem is more with hormones and neurotransmitters than with physical fitness. <S> the hormones go whacko. <S> And there's also a sort of lack of motivation, of course, since the tour's over <S> and it's back to the same old grind. <S> Motivation has a lot to do with how much effort you can put out. <A> The protein will aid in muscle recovery and help push lactic acid out of your muscles. <S> Carb load before big rides, protein after. <S> This seems to be the basis of most endurance diets I've encountered.
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All those days of steadily pumping out the good stuff makes the tour feel great but when I stop, ooops. The body adjusts hormones based on steady power output all day, and when that degree of power production drops (even though you're still quite active) You should also make sure you eat plenty of protein as soon as you can following each ride during and after the tour.
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Sources of vibration at high speed in and around rear wheel I’m experiencing vibration somewhere in the rear half of the bicycle when descending at high speed (say more than 30 mph), and I haven’t been able to pinpoint the cause. Everything looks fine, everything I’ve tried wiggling seems solid, and nothing seems to be getting hot except the brakes and rim. I’d like help figuring what, if anything is wrong. I could try to describe my observations in more detail, though I hesitate to do so for two reasons. First, they are all fuzzy and potentially misleading, since it’s hard to examine the bicycle while it’s moving 30-40 mph, and it makes me nervous so I slow down and the vibration stops. Second, it seemed like it could be useful to have a checklist of things to look into when experiencing such vibration, that isn’t limited to my particular problem. (If it’s more appropriate for this community, I’ll edit this question to add my observations.) <Q> Note: I've included things not at the rear of the bike as sometimes we think something is coming from one area when it's actually caused by another. <S> List of things I would check: <S> Wheels true and round without rubber <S> (check dishing too, but unlikely to cause vibration) <S> Adding rubber (tire and tube) and inflating does not take wheel assembly out of true (some tires seem to float from side to side a bit <S> and this can make things wobble a bit at speed. <S> Wheel attachments such as reflectors don't lead to excessive imbalance. <S> Accessories such as pump, water bottle, lock are firmly attached. <S> Check entire wheel assembly: spokes, skewers, bearings. <S> Everything should be free of cracks, dents, bends. <S> Parts that move should do so smoothly (bearings, freewheel). <S> Things that should be straight should be straight (spokes, skewers). <S> Pawls inside freewheel engage and slip smoothly and correctly. <S> Frame is intact, no cracks or bends. <S> Especially the chainstay and seat stay. <S> Fork is intact, no cracks or bends. <S> Headset is installed correctly, no play in steering. <S> Seat post is intact, no cracks or bends. <S> Saddle is tight to seat post. <S> Finally I would check the bottom bracket area. <S> This gets a lot of torque and abuse so give it another look for cracks or fatigue. <S> Still a problem? <S> Get an experienced rider that is comfortable descending to ride your wheel. <S> Find a nice straight descent with no traffic. <A> Have you put it on a true stand? <S> This will be very hard to see because the change is very gradual, but will definitely cause vibrations at higher speed. <S> Beyond that, the belts in tires sometimes separate, and the rubber will expand between the belt separation forming a 'bubble' in your tire. <S> These are usually noticeable at low speeds, however, so I'd check the truing first. <A> Based on recent personal experience, I would suspect the hub bearings. <S> I'm guessing you've checked the wheel for play, but if you did this while the wheel is still on the bike, you may have missed it. <S> Play is often not noticeable when quick-release skewers are used as these provide additional compression on the cups that can artificially tighten the bearings masking the underlying problem. <S> Check for play with the quick-release done up loose, or with the wheel off the bike, for a better idea of hub wear. <S> This quick release tightening phenomenon is documented at http://sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html . <S> Once I fixed the (totally knackered) bearings, the vibration stopped. <S> My bearing play was masked by the quick release tension <S> so it was not immediately obvious that the hubs needed servicing. <A> I had a similar problem, would a longer chain stay be a problem? <S> If a bike is specced with a measurement and actually measures another such as the the chain stay is off by 5mm, would that cause it to shake? <A> Too much tight chain or less lubricated chain also can cause vibration on high speed
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I'm assuming you don't see any obvious dents or seam separation, but a wheel can become untrue in such a way that the wheel is further from the hub at one end and closer to the hub at the other. Seat post is tight to frame. My recent experience sounds very similar to your's - vibration only when descending rapidly.
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Can I use gear oil on my chain? I don't have any chain oil right now, but I have some gear oil left over from working on my car. Would it be an effective chain lubricant? It's listed as 80W90, but reading the Wikipedia article suggests that that's not equivalent to motor oil viscosity ratings. <Q> Short answer: <S> No, you shouldn't. <S> Heavy oils attract too much dirt, grit and grime which will damage the useful life of your chain. <S> You need a light lubricant which will wick it's way into the internals of the chain, rather than simply coating the external portion of the chain. <S> A good Teflon carrier lube like the Finish Line Teflon works well, lasts a good while and doesn't pick up dirt when properly applied. <S> Using something like that will extend the useful life of your chain. <S> Gear oil is too thick, and designed for a higher heat production than you get on a pedal driven bicycle. <S> It relies on engine heat, and the gears moving at high speed to produce enough friction to reduce the viscosity of the oil enough to be thin enough to flow as a good lubricant. <S> It would be better than nothing, but hardly a good choice. <A> Short answer: <S> yes, you can. <S> I've been doing it for years and my chains are lasting very long compared to ancient times when I used other stuff. <S> Only potential caveat is that it is not the cleanest oil you'll ever use, but neither are the similar, much more expensive "wet" oils in the market (namely FinishLine Green). <S> One liter of gearbox will cost a few bucks and last for the rest of your life. <S> Long answer: <S> Who said motor oil is good for chains? <S> ;o) <S> The owner's instruction manual from my former motorcycle (a Honda 200cc one) said explicitly to use gearbox oil on the chain. <S> I suppose that either applications are similar (weather-exposed roller chains on two-wheeled vehicles), and if the oil is good for motorcycle, with larger torques and speeds, it should be good for bicycles too; Looking at the heart of the problem, roller chains need fluid, high-viscosity lubricants due to high pressure between metal parts. <S> That's what happens on chains, that's what happens on gearboxes too. <S> That's why FinishLine wet is viscous, and gearbox-oils are viscous too. <S> Motor oil has a different application (hi-speed, combustion-chamber exposure). <S> Hope this helps! <A> You can use gear oil if you want to, it will lubricate your chain. <S> Some thinner motor lube will tend to spray off the chain when pedaling. <S> I did an experiment and used chainsaw chain oil on my own chain on my fixed gear bike. <S> It did a good job of lubricating the chain. <S> However, it tended to pick up a lot of dirt and grime. <S> It was also much harder to totally clean off unless I used really harsh solvents (like paint thinner). <S> So, I'm going to recommend buying bike specific lube. <S> It is easier to strip and re-apply using citrus degreasers or other products (simple green) and will not pick up gunk as quickly (especially dry lubes). <S> However, I'm not going to convince everybody. <S> Chain maintenance is a religious issue and everyone has their own set of beliefs about how to do it properly. <S> Lot's of esoterica and info about chain maintiance here: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html <A> If you have some automatic transmission oil around the garage, especially the newer transmission oil, that would be better than a heavy oil on the chain. <S> The heavier oil will pick up and hold all kinds of dirt from the road. <S> Even some Marvel Mystery Oil ( remember that red stuff you could use for anything around the garage? ), would work well on the chain. <A> And its not too thick - grease is used as factory lube on all new chains, and this is way thicker than oil and is an extremely good lube. <S> Yes, applying too much will attract dirt, but you can avoid this. <S> Gearbox oil is my lube of choice - but with the following method: -I thin it out 50% with paint thinners. <S> This allows it to penetrate extremely well into every link and roller, and once dry, results in only a very thin application of the oil -After lubing and running the chain through the gears for a minute or so, I give the chain a good wipe to remove any excess oil. <S> Wipe again after the first ride. <S> I get over 500 km between re-lubes, and over 8,000km out of my chains with this method. <S> And its dirt cheap.
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It's an extremely good high pressure viscous lubricant, and unlike engine oils, it does not contain detergent additives which make engine oil less resistant to water washout. Of course you can use gear oil on your chain.
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Bottom bracket is ticking Recently my 2008 Devinci mountain bike sounds like it's ticking when I push down on my left pedal on a usual rotation. When I turn the bike over and go through rotations, I can't get it to tick. When I put my left crank all the way down & jump a little on the left pedal, I don't get the ticking. Only when I'm spinning. The ticking isn't 100% consistent, but probably about 80-90% of the rotations have this tick. I took it to my LBS, but they just said it was a bent chainring tooth - which it wasn't. Does this sound like this is definitely the bottom bracket? Thanks. Update: I took it into my LBS to get the BB taken out & cleaned. The tech said he couldn't find anything wrong with it, but did hear the ticking. He greased & lubed anything that moved, and the sound lessened quite a bit. I haven't had a good long ride on the bike since, so I haven't verified if the sound has gone away. Final update: Went for a good ride & didn't hear the ticking, so it was likely the BB. <Q> Bottom bracket noise is a frequent problem, and often hard to diagnose. <S> First and foremost, check the tightness of the crank bolts. <S> (Your LBS should have done this when they checked out the bike.) <S> A loose crank bolt can be the cause of BB noise, and failure to tend to the problem immediately (if not sooner) can result in irreparable damage to the crank arm. <S> After that there are a number of possible causes. <S> On a non-derailleur bike the chain may simply be too tight. <S> On a derailleur bike the chain may have a frozen link. <S> Rarely, the problem can be due to bearing problems within the BB, but much more often with BB cartridges the cups have worked slightly loose and the cartridge is sliding back and forth in the housing (harmless and easily fixed). <S> (This is easily diagnosed by simply grabbing the crank and shaking it -- there should be no bearing play detected.) <S> And pedal bearings seem (to me) to go out with aggravating frequency. <S> Then, of course, there's the "trick" knee or ankle that clicks sometimes. <A> If it's happening on every revolution, I would say it's not a frozen link in the chain as that would take a few revolutions to get back around. <S> Does it also happen when you stand up out of the saddle? <S> that would rule out any noises related to your saddle/seat post which can often be mistaken for BB noises. <S> More than likely it's your bottom bracket, the crank arm is loose, or perhaps the pedal is loose. <S> Especially on a MTB you can get dirt and grime in the interfaces where these parts join to one another and they will work themselves loose a little bit through normal wear and tear. <S> The reason it's not making the noise when you flip the bike over is because you need some torque to make it happen go out of alignment and cause the tick. <S> I'd either remove, clean and regrease your BB, crank arms and pedals yourself if you are comfortable with that or <S> take it to a shop and let them know you need your BB removed, cleaned and reinstalled. <A> Believe it or not I thought I was having crank issues on a new bike with Ultegra 6700 turns out my mavic front wheel had loosey goosey front spokes... <S> once that was tightened up the sound went away... <S> it took me a while to get to the bottom of it because it only made the noise when I pedalled medium strength. <S> I figure that with the side to side torque it made the noise? <S> All I know is it is gone!
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On bikes with loose bearings (vs a cartridge) in the bottom bracket a loose cup can allow the crank to actually tilt slightly, such that the chain hangs up on the sprocket. There may be a bent chainring tooth, or a deformed chain link.
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Best practice for patching snakebite pinch flats on skinny tubes So, I tend to run 700x23c or 700x25c tires on my commuter bike. Sometimes I'm lazy and forget to check the air pressure and inevitably get a pinch flat when I hit some stationary object, pothole, or big curb. When I get a snakebike type of pinch flat (2 holes somewhat separated, usually on opposite sides of a ridge in the tube, I find it hard to patch. Either I use a small patch without having the small patch only extend past the holes 1mm or 2mm and usually placed over the ridge/seam in the tube, or I use a large patch which is really hard to apply since it is wider than the tube (making it hard to apply glue and appropriate pressure to patch when gluing) but provides coverage for both holes at once. Park tool GP-2 glueless patches seem to work ok for this situation since they can easily be overlapped without issue. However, I hear anecdotal evidence that they are not as durable as patches used with vulcanizing fluid. What is the preferred way to patch these type of tricky flats? <Q> Use the thinnest conventional (tube-of-glue type) <S> patches you can find. <S> They should be the type with feathered edges. <S> A little overlap is OK, but trim the edges if there will be a lot. <S> Better still, swap in your spare tube. <S> Better still, don't let your tires go flat. <A> The issues you are seeing are more related to the type of patch and the air pressure. <S> Glueless patches and high pressure don't mix. <S> Even on a single puncture. <S> Or just make it a rule to check your tires every 2 or 3 days. <S> High PSI tires tend to drop in PSI fast because they are such low volume. <A> I've had good luck with the Park GP-2's being extremely durable, lasting as long as the tube. <S> Back when I was using them frequently, I think I was running somewhere in the 70-90 PSI range.
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(Avoid using large patches as they won't expand as the tube expands.) Try making sure you used the dime sized patches and vulcanizing fluid as directed. You could also try a latex tube as they have smaller holes between the molecules of the tube, which has less air leak over time.
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Protecting yourself from briars / brambles / jaggers while mountain biking Riding in the northeast US, I find myself encountering a lot of overgrown mountain bike trails in the spring. Many of these trails are bordered by briars / brambles / jaggers. I can't totally avoid them, so what can I do to protect my legs from them while not subjecting myself to overheating in hot weather with high humidity? <Q> I have used shin guards since the 1980s, growing up in Hawaii and now riding in Utah (both get pretty hot) and I found that wearing knee high socks help with the "heat" factor, but even then, as long as I am wearing shorts, I don't even think about my legs being warm. <S> I have been using the LizardSkin shinguards for about 15 years now and will continue to use them as long as I ride! <S> (I am still riding the same pair, they are frekn very durable!) <S> For the shin-whacks nothing protects better, they have a V-shaped insert that virtually eliminates any hit. <S> And if you want to ride without that layer of protection (or to wash it) you can take that insert out really easily. <S> Even without the insert, it has a pretty durable front with some padding that would help with any sticks or whatever slapping you. <S> The neoprene has holes for ventilation but not really a big help, but the back gives me a gap of about 2 inches, and I have skinny legs. <S> I have ridden a lot of downhill trails and they have helped a lot through the brush. <S> They even come down low enough to give your ankles some protection. <A> You could try soccer socks, with or without shin guards. <S> They cover the part of legs usually affected by vegetation, and are somewhat sports-oriented. <S> At least since soccer players usually get covered with sweat on hot days, I guess these equipment are design to handle that. <S> Hope this helps <A> Wear trousers/pants. <S> This provides some abrasion protection in the event of a slide. <S> If you're wearing workpants <S> then the thorns etc won't hook in. <S> Downside is heat - so wear a light colour to decrease the insolation and perhaps a thinner fabric for cooling. <S> Bonus - I have pockets for my small stuff, and a belt on which to hang my leatherman. <S> (and there's the advantage I can get off the bike and look vaguely normal, rather than scaring people with my.... cycling equipment.... )
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The shin guards are usually worn inside the socks, but if the vegetation damages the socks too much, it could be adviseable to wear the guards over the socks. I have always worn full length trousers while riding, normally over padded shorts or bib shorts.
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What purpose do the rubber 'hairs' have on new tyres? Up close you can see at least three 'hairs' of rubber from this picture from the side of my tyre: Why do they exist? I've heard they are just a bi-product of the manufacturing process. <Q> Note the technical term for what you are calling "hairs" is "vent spews." <S> [1] As the name indicates, they are a consequence of an important detail of the tire fabrication process. <S> While liquid rubber is being injected or otherwise forced into the tire mold, air bubbles can form in the rubber or between the rubber and the mold. <S> These bubbles can cause the finished tire to be weakened or malformed. <S> To prevent that, tire manufacturers place vent holes in the mold to allow the air to escape under pressure. <S> Necessarily, some rubber will get forced into these holes, forming the vent spews upon curing (which is the process by which the tire rubber converts from liquid to solid). <S> These vent spews serve no useful purpose in the finished tire; conversely, they can be removed without consequence. <S> [1] for some citations, see this ask.com post and this reddit post <A> Those are "sprues" -- bits of rubber that went into the vent holes in the tire mold. <S> They serve no purpose. <A>
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i can only imagine during the manufacturing process that hot rubber is injected into a mold like device and then spun till cool enough to remove, these little hair like things are formed during the centrifuge process through little holes that serve as a way for air to escape to prevent imperfections in the tyre (tire).
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51cm top tube too small for someone who normally cycles frame with 55cm top tube? I'm looking to buy a second bike and have found a really nice frame. The bike I cycle at the moment, which fits me perfectly (I am 5'11" (180cm)), has a 55cm top tube. The frame I'm looking at has a 51cm top tube. Is this difference too much? <Q> There are two lenghts on a bike that are crucial for bike fit: <S> Seat tube length, which tells you how much of your seatpost will be outside the frame; Effective top tube length, which is the horizontal distance between the centerlines of seat tube and head tube. <S> This tells about your reach to the handlebars, how much the bike will feel "long" or "short" to you. <S> Some time ago, almost all the bikes had an horizontal top-tube, and due to manufacturing constraints (lugged frames using lugs with fixed angles) they tended to have a certain proportion between frame "height" and "length" in order to fit the average rider with a certain height. <S> Today we have a widespread adoption of welded frames, sloped top-tubes, mirabolant geometry designs, and we should always consider variations in leg-torso proportion for people with the same height. <S> That's why I think is safer not to consider the relation between one of length/height of two frames to have a correspondent variation of the other measure. <S> In other words, is perfectly plausible to have two frames with same seat tube lenght and significantly different effective top tube length, and vice versa. <S> EDIT: <S> Unfortunately, since the frame you are looking at is a 51cm top tube, it is unlikely to be a good fit. <S> (EDIT: <S> I thank Zenbike for editing my question, because I had mistaken top tube for seat tube and didn't even notice. <S> Usually only the seat tube length is informed, and end up being considered as "THE" frame size). <A> Depends on the bike geometry. <S> I'd say that's a pretty big difference though. <S> I would only vary a few cm in either direction from your ideal frame size. <S> I'm sure you could ride it, but I think you'd feel kind of cramped on it. <S> Different geometry may have an impact on top tube size though. <S> I would hold out for a frame that suits you well <S> and you'll be happy with for years. <A> Simply put, yes, a 51cm frame is too small, assuming it uses traditional geometries. <S> Since you state that the top tube is 51cm, you can assume that it uses traditional geometries. <S> My wife, 5'2" and 118lbs, rides a 51cm top tube. <A> Frankly, it's better for the bike to be a bit too small (within reason) than a bit too big. <S> The main question is whether you can get the seat up high enough (without "cheating") to get full leg extension, and whether the "reach" of the bike and the handlebar height are then satisfactory. <S> (Which is a little hard to do with only a frame, sadly.)
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So, to answer your question: Yes, you can ride a frame with a 51cm seat tube lenght, achieving a similar fit, IF the effective top tube length of the frame is similar to the corresponding measure of the former 54cm frame. Measurements only get you so far -- you need to ride the bike to be sure.
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How to train for a long tour? Recently my interest was piqued with a very long tour: http://tourdivide.org/ Being time constrained by an 8 hour job, how does one train for a ride that will require 160 kilometers (100 miles) per day for 30 days? <Q> I confess, I have not done this kind of ride. <S> But I know a few folks who have done some long ones: <S> Vancouver, BC to San Diego; San Francisco to the Mexican Border; the 999 Ride, and so forth. <S> I will tell you a few things they passed along to me. <S> You can get some really nasty saddle sores from this kind of riding. <S> Once this kind of injury has occurred, it doesn't heal overnight. <S> It also may help to get out of salty, sweaty kit as quickly as possible, and rinse/wash both your body and your kit. <S> Some people are more sensitive to salt on their skin than others; if you're sensitive, take good care of your skin. <S> You will need to train hard for this. <S> Since your link specifies that the ride is self-supported, you should train as you plan to ride. <S> If you plan to carry panniers on your bike, for example, you should train with these. <S> Fully loaded, even if you use bricks or weights or something. <S> The people I know who do these long-distance rides know every steep, hilly route around here, and they ride them. <S> Frequently. <S> As in 250 miles per week (do the math on that, if you're averaging 10 mph because of all the climbing, that is a lot of hours on the bike). <S> (Easton and Mavic come to mind). <S> Make sure your wheels can do this kind of loaded touring. <S> You do not mention any particular experience with this kind of riding, so you may want to do some shorter rides-- 500 miles or whatever-- before attempting such a long, hard ride. <A> I trained for it by riding 60, then 70, then 80 hours in months -3, -2, -1 respectively, and came 4th out of 40. <S> How you fit in such saddle-time in is up to you. <S> NB: for a 30-day event you'll get stronger as it goes on, as long as you start conservatively and eat and sleep well each night. <A> If you are doing loaded touring on windy and/or hilly roads you may only average 8 mph, so you might be in the saddle a lot longer. <S> To be comfortable on a bike for that long you need only a few things: good shorts, a good saddle, good chamois cream and reasonably strong legs. <S> Padding in normally bad for both the saddle and the chamois in your shorts as it allows pressure to be placed on more of your skin. <S> You really want most of the pressure to be on your Sitz bones (ischial tuberosity). <S> You need a good cream to keep you from chafing or getting saddle sores (boils). <S> The stronger your legs are the more weight you can keep on them and off your saddle. <S> As for training, if you can ride for 2 hour with out ANY discomfort you should not have trouble riding 100 with a higher level of discomfort. <S> The problem I see you having is that you are going to be on the edge of your distance everyday and won't really be able to enjoy the trip. <S> I would cut the distance in half and enjoy myself along the way.
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Make sure you have some really good shorts or bibs, and some good chamois cream. Saddle time is essential, but you can use short-but-intense rides to help train. Plan on carrying spare tubes, a spare tire, and extra spokes, especially if you have funky wheels that use proprietary spokes I have ridden 200km dailyfor ten consecutive days, in the French Alps, in a timed event.
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Does an SPD-SL AND SPD compatible pedal/shoe exist? I am soon going to buy a pair of pedals (and new shoes of course) for my road bike (mostly used for commuting, and short-ish rides (40-50 miles/80Km). Most important to me is being able to walk in my cycling shoes BUT ALSO, be able to cycle my bike without needing to wear my cycling shoes. (Ideally, both are equally as important...ideally.) I am currently torn between a pair of SPD OR a pair of SPD-SL pedals, and then the required shoes. Ideally I am looking for a pair of SPD-SL pedals, so I can ride my bike sometimes without my bike shoes without killing myself. Something like the Shimano PD-R540 SPD. [1] They have a resonably large platform for the foot, which helps when wearing "normal" shoes. Then I am also looking for a pair of SPD off-road shoes, something like the Shimano M076 MTB SPD Shoes.[2] The reason I say these is they have some grip, and the cleat is slightly recessed, not the make/model. So to my question. It can be asked in either of two ways: Does an SPD/SPD-SL pedal exist? OR Does an SPD/SPD-SL shoe exist? All advice welcome. [1] http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-R540-L.-type-.pd_road.html [2] http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=31536 <Q> Maybe a better option than an SPD-SL pedal would be something like the PD-M324 from Shimano . <S> It's a dual sided pedal, one side flat, with no cleat required, and one side SPD. <S> They don't make an SPD-SL version of it, though. <S> An SPD-SL pedal, because of the depth of the cleat retention area of the pedal doesn't really offer good, safe traction in trainers. <S> of course it can be ridden that way, but it's not your safest way to go, even on gentle rides. <A> Here what you do. <S> Contact Bodybike who makes bikes for spinning. <S> Their pedals have SPD on one side and Look Delta on the other. <S> Just run <S> Look Delta cleats on your road shoes and Shimano SPD on your "everyday" shoes <S> and you're set. <S> https://body-bike.com/catalog/accessories/pedals <A> Does an SPD/SPD-SL pedal exist? <S> No, the cleat and retention is mutually exclusive. <S> SPD is a two screw setup, while SPD-SL is a three screw setup... <S> Does an SPD/SPD-SL shoe exist? <S> Yes - these exist. <S> The Shimano SH-R087G , for example. <S> You'll find these lean towards road rather than offroad -- a more rigid sole, and small rubber spots to minimize the sound and harshness of walking in them. <S> But the cleat is not recessed, so you can't walk normally. <S> Offroad <S> /casual shoes are SPD only, comfortable to walk in because the sole is more flexible and the cleat is recessed... <S> It's pricey, but the Speedplay Zero system might be worth considering. <S> Totally different cleat from the other systems mentioned (uses the old Time, four screw setup) <S> , there are Speedplay specific shoes so the cleat is more shallow than SPD-SL. <A> Short answer, no. <S> SPD and SPD-SL are two completely different systems. <S> Based on what you are asking to get out of the pedal and shoe combination however, going with the shoe you specified (or similar) and an SPD pedal like the following should cover your needs nicely. <S> http://www.rei.com/product/764688/shimano-a530-spd-sport-road-pedals Happy riding! <A> Yes, my Specialized Elite road shoes are both SPD and SPD-SL compatible as you can see in this picture... <S> http://cdn2.media.cyclingnews.futurecdn.net/2011/12/11/2/specialized_elite_road_sole_600.jpg <S> I'm sure there are others out there too! <A> with mtb spd shoes you can walk easily or if you want to ride with sandals or <S> whatever shoe you have on atm, riding is just like it was when you were a kid. <A> Check out some of shimano's 'lower end' 2016 road shoes. <S> Most now are SPD and SPD-SL compatible. <S> RP2, RP3 & RP5 shoes. <S> http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/articles/2016-shimano-shoe-models/_jcr_content/bodycontent/titletextteaser_5/image/file.res/1443281313322.jpg <A> Get yourself any clipless pedals you want (double sided) and buy a set of Fly Pedals II- Plus a spare set of cleats for them. <S> You can keep the Fly Pedals in your pocket, snap them on any time you want then, them take them off & put the away. <S> Plus you still have double sided pedals when you wear your bike shoes. <S> FlyPedals website
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there are spd pedals with a shoe platform on the flip side of the cleat.
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Good Gloves to Prevent Ulnar Numbness I recently noticed that towards the end of my 6.4 mile ride to and from work, my hand and arms began to numb. A friend recommended I try cycling gloves, so I purchased these from Amazon. They do seem to lessen the numbness, but not prevent it entirely. What's more, it doesn't feel like the pads hit my palm in such a way that it removes weight from the middle channel of the wrist, though the gloves seem to fit my hands without any slack. How do you identify the right fit for preventing ulnar numbness? And is it ever completely preventable, or do I just need to live with it to some extent? If I am still feeling numbness, should I send the gloves back? <Q> A little more information would be helpful. <S> Are you riding a road bike or hybrid, or what? <S> How tall are you? <S> What is your inseam? <S> What size is the bike? <S> Without this information, the best I can do is: 1) 6-7 miles isn't a long ride. <S> If you're getting numbness in such a short distance, something is probably wrong. <S> 2) <S> Hands get numb when they carry too much weight. <S> 3) <S> It could be your fitness. <S> If your core (abdominal and/or back muscles) are weak, you could be compensating by putting too much weight on your hands. <S> 4) <S> It could be a combination of #2 and #3. <S> What can be done to fix this? <S> It depends on the cause. <S> See if your bike is the right size for your body. <S> Online fit computers can help with this . <S> In addition, consider strengthening your core . <S> If you ride a hybrid, consider some new grips . <A> The Pearl Izumis are my current favorites. <S> They're far from perfect, but they suck less than other gloves I've tried. <S> BTW -- it sounds like you may have a fit problem with the bike, not the gloves. <S> No glove will compensate for a poorly fitting bike. <S> Get a professional fit from a local bike shop. <A> I use These cycling gloves . <S> They seem to have much more padding than the ones you linked to. <S> They are also available quite cheaply ($15-$20) if you can find a shop that carries them. <S> I've done some pretty long rides in them, and I've only experienced numbness on the longer rides. <S> I agree with the others though, you shouldn't have so much numbness after only a 10 km bike ride. <S> You may be putting too much weight on your hands, possibly due to a bad fitting bike. <S> Don't stay down in the drops all the time. <S> Using a variety of hand positions can help to stop numbness from occurring.
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If your bike is not the right size, or if it is set up incorrectly, this may cause you to put too much weight on your hands. It could be the fit of your bike. If you ride a road bike, try changing your hand positions as your ride.
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What features should I look for in a cool helmet? I have a Bell Metro helmet. It's fine but even with all the holes, it is very hot. It also causes skin irritation on my forehead and causes (sorry people) pimples on my scalp. Are there specific features that I should look for to have a cooler (as in temperature) and less irritation experience for my head, as it exists under the helmet? <Q> The most important thing to look for when shopping for a helmet that will keep you cool is that air flows all the way through it from front to back. <S> Put the helmet on and look in the mirror. <S> If you can see all the way through the back of the helmet, it'll probably keep you relatively cool. <S> And the more you can see through it, the better. <S> Higher end helmets will also sometimes have vents that scoop air down into the helmet. <S> The vents are raised at the front and lower at the back to force air down into the helmet as you ride along. <S> I don't know what your budget is, but you'll probably pay a pretty penny for one of these. <S> You could also try wet bandana on your head. <S> That works wonders for me. <A> It's not necessarily about how many holes your helmet has as opposed to how the air flows through. <S> It's important to try them on before you buy them, so I would look for the lightest helmet that still provides a good fit with comfort. <S> If your helmet is causing you irritation it may be fitted improperly. <A> Skin irritation could be heat and / or materials. <S> Or both. <S> My son gets rashes and bumps from synthetic fabrics on his skin in the summer, but not winter. <S> Try a ' do rag '. <S> Stick with lighter colors to reflect the sun more.
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But a better vented helmet will also add to the cool air coming in.
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How do I know if it's worth restoring my bike? I found myself in need of a bike, but buying a new one is out of the question. So two possibilities remain: buy a used one for a low price; fix one of my old bikes. But here comes another problem (and my question): how old is too old? I mean, apart from comparing the price, how do I know that fixing a bike is just a waste of time and money because it's simply too old? What should I consider for changing my choice from "fix it" to "buy it"? Rust? Other things? <Q> I volunteer at a community bike shop. <S> We take old donated bikes and fix them up for sale, so I have a lot of experience with this exact dilemma. <S> Here are a few reasons why I will stop working on a bike I am refurbishing: <S> Frame has worse than just surface rust: <S> i.e. extensive pitting and / or holes. <S> Seized parts, especially if they need replacing. <S> Sometimes a seized seatpost isn't so bad, as long as the bike is sold along with that information. <S> However if the bottom bracket needs service and can't be removed, the frame is scrap. <S> The same goes for quill stems that can't be removed, locking the fork into the frame. <S> Damaged threads. <S> If it's not possible to rethread an interface that has been wrecked (e.g. cross threaded), scrap the frame. <S> Bent or cracked tubing. <S> Same goes for tubes with any cracks in them, even if it's fixable. <S> Obviously any carbon frame with cracks is worthless. <S> I'd also add that the original quality of the bike plays into these determinations as well. <S> I will spend a lot less time working on the seized seatpost of an old BSO. <S> I'll also point out that a lot of these issues can be solved with extreme effort, e.g. replacing tubes in the frame. <S> It just isn't worth it in this context <S> and I suspect the same guideline applies for most folks tinkering at home. <A> There is, unfortunately, a degree of "planned obsolescence" with bikes. <S> For better or for worse (I haven't figured out which yet), bike technology (which used to move at glacial speed) now turns over every 5 years or so, and once you get about 3 generations back (ca 15 years) <S> parts become much harder to find. <S> In terms of condition, it somewhat depends on your skill level for making repairs -- a full cycle shop rehab will cost you several hundred dollars, making a "bargain" much less so. <S> that was ridden twice and then stored in a dry garage or basement for 10 years. <S> You'll need new tires and some lube on the chain and cables, but otherwise you're in good shape. <A> There is no such thing as "too old" technically speaking -- however 2 things worth considering: too old because out of fashion too old and hard to get compatible components (for example I have 14-years old bike, and I cannot get a clamp for seatpost -- nowadays the diameter is bigger) <S> Now, since we solved "too old" thing -- there is only one issue -- it is simply damaged bicycle. <S> For example if you are looking for a frame only, broken handlebar is OK, but if there is corrosion on the frame it is no-go deal. <S> Or take a risk, and simply assume "3-years old bike cannot be damaged too much" (which does not have to be the truth). <S> If you don't want to change your bicycle entirely, like from 26" to 29", I would fix my own one. <S> But that's just me.
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So you have to "simply" to look at all signs of damage at those parts which are important for you. The odd dent is fine, but if a bike has obviously been bent in an accident I scrap the frame. The ideal bike to find is a reasonably good quality one (that fits you!)
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Is it possible to use road-style brifters with an internal gear hub? I have a touring bike with road-style Shimano brifters, which I love. I'm also very intrigued by internal-gear hubs, but these hubs seem to focus on rotary or push-button shifters. Is it possible to run an internal-gear hub, especially one of the 11-, 12-, or 14-speed ones, with road-style brifters? And if so, what parts would be needed? <Q> Based on the number of other people asking the same question around the internet, I suspect the answer is no. <S> This page contains the best wrap up I've found of available shifter options for Rohloff hubs. <S> Mittlemeyer may be bringing out some brifters that work with hydraulic brakes in September, but they've already delayed their earlier March release date. <A> Versa makes an 8 speed drop bar shift/brake lever intended for use with Nexus/Alfine 8 speed. <S> UPC is 686605506835, image: http://img1.qbp.com/6SPsvm45/prodl/LD0090.jpg <A> An ugly solution would be to build a cable pull adapter for one lever, then use the other lever to pull that back and forth. <S> That would give you more cable travel and more indents, so you might be able to get the indexing to support more gears. <S> I fear that some hubs have variable travel between gears, though, so that's not guaranteed. <S> If it does work you're going to have the ungainly adapter hanging round somewhere on the bike where it can move. <S> Which is going to be messy <S> and I'm not convinced of its longevity. <S> But it would be easy enough to make one and see whether it works, assuming you already own the hub/wheel to test with. <S> If you do, I suggest building one and seeing what happens. <S> Maybe even build a double beam version to start with rather than machining up a travel adapter. <S> Then slide the cables along the beams until you find an arrangement that works. <S> For Rohloff, as heltonbiker said in the comments, you have two cables and need to pull in both directions so that's not going to work. <S> The twist shifter rotates 273°, so a brifter would need closer indents (less rotation) or a very long travel (from almost hard against the handlebar on top, to the same underneath it. <S> Broadly, they either mount the Rohloff twist grip on the end of the drop bars in a slightly odd position that leaves cables wandering everywhere; or they rely on what amounts to a straight bar with drop bar bar-ends fitted. <S> Either way, twist shifting.
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Various people have tried to make adapters to fit Rohloff shifters to drop bars, but they (IMO) don't work very well.
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What caused my cycling shorts to get damaged during washing? On a ride yesterday, I noticed a spot on my shorts where the fabric felt rough. After washing, the problem became much worse, and there are major areas of damage on both the front and back of the shorts. The following picture shows a close-up of a section of the shorts on the front near the chamois. If I look at the shorts closely, it almost seems like there are short little threads of elastic sticking out. I've never put the shorts in the dryer, and I'm not aware of anything I've done wrong. Is this sort of damage common? Are there any mistakes in care or handling that are likely to have caused this, or is it a manufacturing defect? <Q> These look like normal wearing patterns of cycling shorts, unfortunately. <S> My last 3 shorts (last five or six years) had to be put away because they became "transparent" right in the regions where they COULDN'T be transparent, even though they were still pretty much rideable. <S> But it was very unconvenient to go inside convenience stores, for example. <S> I noticed this has a lot to do with which parts undergo friction with the skin, and stretching/unstretching during regular use. <S> I suspect some chemical reactions from sweat and other skin substances might be involved. <S> Probably the washing procedure might influence the speed or visibility of the process. <S> As a final observation, in general the highest the quality ones (as perceived at purchase time) tend to last much longer before the transparency effect ensues. <S> Anyway, you probably need new shorts. <S> Hope this helps. <A> This happens in areas of high friction or where there's a lot of "scrunching/unscrunching" as you pedal. <A> It was rubbing on the inside of my leg when i would pedal and wearing out a patch on my shorts. <S> I don't know of any chamois creams that would cause that type of damage. <S> Do you purchase quality or budget cycling shorts? <S> I've certainly worn through cheap shorts pretty fast after only a few washings (i always wash cold and never dry).
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I suspect that some of the fibers in the fabric have broken with use, and the washing causes the broken fibers to slip out of the fabric and "show themselves". I've experienced wear on some of my cycling shorts before and after a while I traced it back to the velcro strap on my saddle bag.
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How do I properly apply chamois cream? There is a lot of advice out there to use chamois cream on long rides to prevent sores and chafing. How are you supposed to apply it? In particular I'm curious about the following: Do you apply the pad or to your nethers? Do you wipe it on with your hands or a cloth? What about when you are touring and can't wash up easily after applying? How much cream do you use? <Q> There's no right/wrong answer. <S> Just make sure you have some sort of towel available so you can wipe your hands before riding. <S> What I generally do is place dabs on the chamois and rub the sides together to spread it around -- keeps the hands relatively clean and doesn't require a separate applicator. <S> Some people prefer to rub it on their butt. <S> I don't use a lot -- maybe a half ounce (about 15 cc, IIRC). <S> Others use much more, maybe 2 oz. <A> It really depends on the type of Chamois Cream you are using. <S> I use Assos and that has a little bit thicker consistency than Vaseline, so it typically takes a bit more to get a good spread across everything. <S> The rule of thumb I follow is anywhere where friction will be a factor. <S> That for me means most of the taint, and the inner part of the upper thigh. <S> I know of some riders, such as my dad, who will also apply a fresh coat after being on the bike for a couple of hours. <A> For short rides, I just use Glide. <S> It comes in a deodorant style container and can be applied directly to the nether regions. <S> For longer rides, I use a tube+cream based lube that i apply in both places chamois and directly to the "friction zone." <S> One indispensable word of advice, if you are directly applying down there...remember this order of operations: <S> Sunscreen on your face, neck, arms and legs <S> Butt cream do not mix those up.
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Depends on the type of lube/cream you're using. After applying I try to wash my hands (when a sink is handy), when it is not then I use one of the handi-wipes I keep in my saddle bag. I agree with @Daniel, there really isn't a wrong way to do it. I don't like applying it to padding in the bib because I hate that feeling when I first put it on (worse than a wet bathing suit). I would try out different ways on shorter rides to see what feels good and what does not.
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Is there a good resource for helping to discern the cause of pain / soreness? I went for my longest ride of the year this past Sunday. I guess my body wasn't expecting it or my bike is slightly misconfigured. I'm interested in finding a resource where I can look up what I might have done wrong based on where I am experiencing pain. Does such a resource exist? FWIW, I had serious stiffness and pain between my right calf muscle and right ankle. <Q> It sounds like you want a web site similar to WebMD that you can put in symptoms and get an answer. <S> I'd recommend against going down that route. <S> With all endurance events, you can have resultant pain in the same areas caused by entirely different things. <S> Trying to solve for problem (A) may actually exacerbate problem (B). <S> Instead, I'd recommend seeing a physical therapist or sports medicine doctor. <S> Both can help you correctly identify what is actually injured and the PT and often the doc can help you identify how it got injured and what you need to change (setup of bike, strength in particular muscle, etc) to prevent it from occuring. <S> In the meantime, RICE: <S> Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevation. <S> Ice baths aren't fun, but they really do work. <S> Happy Riding! <A> This is hands down the best write up of cycling related pain and the probable source of said pain: Sheldon Brown :: Pain . <S> In fact, be sure to check out the whole site. <S> It's not much to look at, <S> but it's one of the best (if not the best) resource on the web for all things cycling. <A> There are many conditions that can cause joint/muscle pain, and there is no comprehensive site. <S> If you suspect that you have some "unique" condition that is causing your pain (vs simple exercise soreness) <S> then this site can be helpful, if you can figure out how to navigate it.
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There are probably some "sports medicine" sites around, but they can only take you so far.
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How can I remove a fork if the bolt on the stem is rusted? I got run over a car a few weeks ago and now i have to change the fork.It's an old racer, as you can see in the picture, with a 1 inch fork. I am trying to loosen it from the frame, but I can't loosen the bolt marked with 2 because of the rust and now it's completely gone. Any advice? I couldn't post any picture, but the stem and fork is similar to this one: And the bolt I am talking about is the one that is in the stem and goes to the fork. <Q> You'll need an allen key - probably a 6mm one to take off the stem, which is the silver part that holds your handle bars. <S> If you loosen the bolt and it keeps coming up, hit it with a plastic mallet to knock it back down which should loosen that. <S> Once the stem is off you will need a headset wrench, probably 32mm. <S> Having 2 helps because it's basically a double nut that holds the stem on. <S> The lower one holds the stem in place and the upper one locks it into position. <S> If you've stripped the nut, I would take it to a shop and they'll have to do some additional work on it and most likely replace your headset. <S> If you were in a crash, I'd have a bike shop inspect your bike front to back. <S> A crash can do a lot of damage that the untrained eye will not be able to spot and you could be riding a cracked frame or otherwise dangerous bike. <A> If it's rusted, you will also want to try some "Creep" (lots of brands out there, Liquid Wrench is popular on East Coast) penetrating oil. <S> Straight oils won't get in where you need them. <S> Note that the penetrating oils have solvent in them <S> so you will want to clean, degrease, and re-oil after you get everything apart. <A> What you need is the proper size of headset wrench. <S> Take your bike into a bike shop and ask them for the proper sized headset wrench for your bike. <S> If you're stripped the bolts, I would recommend filing off the rounded bits if they aren't stripped too badly, or using some channel locks if they are stripped too badly. <A> If you're ok with destroying your stem, sawing through it will definitely work. <S> You won't even have to get all the way through it, just a bit over half. <S> Once you've sawn through the bolt that runs through the center it'll all come apart just the same as if you'd unscrewed it until it came out. <S> That said, I've never sawn through a stem before. <S> I don't imagine that the metal would be too hard for your garden-variety hack saw, but some bike parts are (I'm thinking specifically of a bottom bracket spindle).
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Occasionally it helps to have two headset wrenches or a nice big adjustable wrench so that you can work the bolts against each other if they are binding. If you still have issues, you might consider cutting off the fork from the bottom with a hacksaw (since you are replacing it anyway) which will give you more access to the stuck parts.
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Is it possible to measure your sit bones at home? Some bike shops have gel pads that you sit on to measure the distance between your sit bones. Is it possible to take this measurement on your own at home, or does this really require special-purpose equipment? [Related question: Should I use a narrower saddle on a road bike than I would on my hybrid commuter? ] <Q> Copied this from a BikeRadar article : How to measure your own sit bones <S> Of course the measure you really want is between the centres of your ischial tuberosities – the pointy lower parts of your pelvic bone on either side. <S> Many bike dealers have a pad that you can sit on to measure this distance, but you can do it at home too. <S> Take a piece of aluminium kitchen foil and place it on a carpeted stair. <S> Sit on the foil, lean forward a bit to approximate your riding position, then lift your feet. <S> This should leave a good impression of your rear in the foil, and you can measure between the two points of deepest impression to get your sit bone width. <S> ‘Narrow’ sit bone width would be 100mm or less, medium 100-130mm, wide over 130mm. <S> These figures should translate approximately across other ranges, with all other factors taken into account. <A> None of the above techniques worked for me. <S> I made no impression on the corrugated cardboard and the foil just showed a nice big bum-print after sitting a few different surfaces. <S> I came up with my own technique that's a bit more trial and error but seemed to work for me. <S> Then I got up and measured how far apart they were. <A> I know this is an old thread <S> but it's the top one on Google <S> and I found it helpful. <S> I tried all the methods above <S> and I didn't have a lot of luck <S> so I wanted to share what I tried. <S> I made some playdough using the first no cook recipe I found on Google <S> (it was fun and doesn't take long). <S> I then put it between two pieces of cling film and pressed it to about 2" thick, placed it on a hard surface (my kitchen floor) and put a tea towel over it so my legs didn't stick to the cling film. <S> I then sat on it with my back in roughly my riding position. <S> The impression of my sit bones is really clear, I can see 2 circles (see image) and I measured the distance between the centres. <S> I tried a few times and it was consistent. <A> You can do it on any surface which will conform to the shape of your butt, like a piece of memory foam. <S> Sit on it, with your knees higher than your seat by 4-6 inches, then measure the center of the depressions left. <S> There are different types of memory foam, and some will have a more durable impression than others. <A> I've used this method which worked well: Fill a large size ziploc bag with icing sugar. <S> Icing sugar's fine texture means that it binds together when compressed. <S> This is what we want - it will hold the shape of your buttprint after you get up. <S> Close the bag making sure to squeeze out the air. <S> Place on hard chair. <S> Sit while assuming the degree of forward rotation that you intend to cycle with. <S> The distance between your sit bones change depending on this rotation. <S> Get up cleanly and measure the distance between the depressions. <A> Here's a link to a video that may help you: <S> In this technique all you need is a piece of corrugated cardboard and some chalk. <A> A fresh piece of corrugated cardboard on a hard surface such as a coffee table. <S> Sit down and try to mimic the upper body position you have on your bike. <S> Your sit bones change position based on how your pelvis is tilted. <S> Your sit bones should crush the corrugated cardboard slightly and leave two indentations. <S> Measure center to center as best you can. <A> There is one more method people here aren't talking about... <S> You can feel someone's sit bones on their butt. <S> They're pretty obvious once you're touching them.
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Sit on a bike on a trainer, get into riding position, and have someone you don't mind touching you physically measure your sit bones, in proper riding position. A saddle’s width is measured from edge to edge across the top, and Specialized recommends a 130mm saddle width for narrow, 143mm for medium and 155mm for wide. I got two small erasers, put them on a chair, sat on them and moved them around until they felt like I was sitting on my sit bones.
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Good goggles over glasses for a small head? I have a pair of prescription sunglasses that partially wrap around my face, but when I ride (mountain biking and commuting), dust and debris still end up in my eyes, and after twenty miles, my eyes are watering. I am looking to get a pair of goggles that can fit over my glasses, but I don't want to order a pair that won't fit my head (I'm 5'3"), and I have yet to find a goggle review that mentions a small size. I have a cross-country helmet, so they'd be sitting directly on my face. Are there any recommendations? I am looking to get a pair for under fifty dollars. <Q> Safety Glasses. <S> I no longer bother with prescription sunglasses, I have multiple pairs of Uvex safety glasses that fit nicely over my glasses. <S> There are multiple lenses that filter all UV, come in different colours, etc. <S> I also have a pair with clear lenses that I use when it's particularly dusty or dirty. <S> (e.g. I sometimes ride over a very busy bridge) <S> If you do go with some sort of safety glasses, you can either find someplace online that sells them or look for a local safety/industrial supply company. <S> Here's some more Uvex-specific information, I'm sure other brands would also work: <S> The glasses I use are the Uvex Genesis with Espresso Lenses. <S> The Gold Mirror lens looks cooler (both are 100% UV) but the gold surface finish is more fragile. <S> The lenses on these and many other safety glasses are interchangeable so if you want another colour or need a replacement, you don't need to buy the frame. <S> OTOH, the frames are not expensive <S> so it's possible to have multiple shades for different conditions. <S> (The last pair I bought last year was about Can$35.) <S> Uvex has a smaller series called the Genesis Slim that might meet your need for a smaller pair of glasses. <S> They don't have as many colour choices for lenses, but both of the "Grey" choices block 100% of UV. <S> This page has PDFs of reference info: which tints are available for which frames, details of the different lens tints. <A> Order a pair of glasses with more coverage from zenni-optical . <S> It's nice not to have to wear a goofy contraption over top of your existing glasses. <S> You can get a pair of prescription goggle type for around 25-30 bucks that will do the job for you. <S> Just try sorting by type, use goggles as the filter. <S> You just need to give them the details of your prescription and they will make them for you and ship them pretty quickly. <A> I ride a motorcycle (Honda 750 Shadow) and use sunglasses with a foam around the rims like these: <S> http://bit.ly/Oo2ode <S> (those are prescriptions), or you could get some MX goggles like these: http://bit.ly/Oo3JAz or http://bit.ly/Kjrj2s and keep your regular glasses. <A> They make over the glasses goggles most of which are pretty affordable, but ski goggles might be too big for your application? <A> Have you thought of a bicycle helmet with a built-in visor? <S> There are several different types, from ones that clip-on with a strap to those that are more integral (flip-down like a motorcycle helmet).
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Until then, you could pick up some cheap hardware store goggles, a pair of ski goggles, or moto-cross goggles and try them on for fit over your glasses.
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Are 22mm tires too thin for commuting? I recently switched from a mountain bike to a road bike with 22mm tires for commuting. I noticed right away that I could not do the things like hop over curbs with this new bike. I also got flats. Lots of flats. I would get 1 flat per week, and I got good at patching tires. After a few weeks of this i got Tuffy tire liners and haven't gotten a flat since. I patched up all holes in my tires from inside before putting them in (and they were a pain to put in). I still have the following fears: If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3" bump), I might get a pinch flat. I cannot ride off a curb onto the payment without wrecking my bike. I cannot hop curbs. I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers. If there is a sizeable hole (from glass) in my tire, I must use a patch kit to patch it up. I must always ride at 120psi per tire (I weigh ~200lbs). My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain). I must pay extreme attention to the road and go around bumps. Should I be worried about these concerns? Are 22mm tires too thin for commuting? Followup : Well, after about 2 months of daily commuting on the road bike I have this to say in the defense of my earlier self: My biggest issues turned out to be: My bike lock which I used to attach to my bike created a lot of vibration which in turn made it impossible for me to hear any noise my bike was making. One time I rode on a flat for a few minutes because I couldn't hear/tell it was there because of the vibration/noise. This incident made me think that flats on a road bike were undetectable. I rode clipless which scared me in traffic. I've since started to carry my bike lock in my backpack so now I can hear my bike. I've also replaced my awesome clipless pedals with regular ones which made me feel much more comfortable in high traffic. Not fearing death actually made me faster with regular pedals in the city. Commuting on the road bike is a blast. I love passing everyone, and now that I figured out how to properly use both brakes, I can actually stop almost as quickly as I could on my fat tired mountain bike. <Q> Most of your fears are unfounded or way overblown. <S> If I am going fast and I hit a small (less then 3" bump) <S> I might get a pinch flat. <S> Pinch flats do not occur on tires that are properly inflated. <S> I cannot not ride off a curb on to the payment and not wreck my bike. <S> I do this on both my commuter and my racing bike. <S> Just do it gently and not violently. <S> I cannot hop curbs. <S> I do this at slow speeds with no problem. <S> I must check my tires after every ride for glass lodged in them and take it out with tweezers. <S> Easier is to just not ride through glass. <S> I've never had to pick glass out of my tires after three years of commuting by bike. <S> If there is a sizable hole (from glass) in my tire I must use a patch kit to patch it up. <S> Yeah. <S> But again, you shouldn't be flatting this often. <S> I made it 6,500mi on my last pair of tires. <S> I must always ride at 120psi per tire <S> (I weigh ~200lbs). <S> Ride at whatever the printed range is on the tire itself. <S> Some road tires are fine at 85psi. <S> Usually this involves topping up air once every week (for 120+psi tires) or two to three weeks (for 85psi tires). <S> Your front brake should be more than capable of hurtling you over the handlebars if slammed shut at speed. <S> Braking power will be significantly impacted in the rain, however. <S> I must pay extreme attention to the road and go around bumps. <S> Way overblown. <S> Don't go plowing into 5-inch potholes, sure. <S> If you're having this many problems, you're probably treating your road bike like a mountain bike <S> (why are you having to hop curbs so often — it's a road bike, not a sidewalk bike) and you probably have worn out and/or bargain bin tires. <A> Road bike tires are indeed different than what you are used to. <S> IF your tires are aired up right <S> (yes likely 100+ PSI per the sidewall recommendations) <S> you should NOT be getting pinch flats. <S> Avoid potholes and curbs. <S> Yes you can hop a curb on a road bike, <S> but but takes grace and a soft touch, and you have to pop up the back wheel a bit. <S> you can not just pop the front and bash the back. <S> Even with the right tire pressure you can break the rim. <S> Glass is a road bike tire's worst enemy. <S> It will slice or gash a tire. <S> Also watch out for chunks of metal and bolts. <S> I slit open a tire 3" on a piece of metal i failed to see. <S> Braking power is a different thread. <S> But good brakes will go a long way. <S> I went years on cheap textro or low level shimanos and simply thought road bikes never stopped fast. <S> Then i picked up some Ultegra's <S> and wow what a difference. <S> I now stop on a dime, just as fast if not faster than with dic brakes on my mountain bike. <S> I have since added some shimano 105's to my commuter, and while not as good as my ultegras, they are 2x better than the stock junk. <S> I picked up the 105 calipers used on ebay for $40. <S> Worth a look. <A> I used to ride my racing bike every day to and from work. <S> This bike had an 11mm wide front tire and a 15mm wide back tire, and over the course of ten years I had had only one puncture. <S> I rode it as fast as I could, everywhere, up and down hills - but got very used to just avoiding debris in the road. <S> Your eyes will get used to looking far ahead and your brain will learn to plan the route around bumps and potholes. <S> Dropping down kerbs I would use my legs as shock absorbers, letting it come down gently. <S> The only problem I did have was the one time I missed a new pothole on my usual high speed run - my front wheel got far enough down into it that I shattered the magnesium rim and went forks first into a busy roundabout! <S> Since then I've always had at least a 13mm front tire. <S> tl;dr - you'll be fine. <S> just get used to planning where your wheels will go by looking further ahead. <A> For commuting I bought a bike with 700x32 wheels (following advice from Q+As on this site) and put 'Marathon Plus' tires on them. <S> Those tires seem bullet-proof to me, and would surely take your weight well.
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Get some decent tires with puncture protection and chill out a bit. I also popped it up kerbs when I had to, but would take that a bit slower, and aim to pop the wheels up exactly the height of the kerb, so they wouldn't either hit the corner or come down from a height. My stopping power compared to the mountain bike is really really bad (especially in the rain).
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avoiding punctures in 22mm tires I used to get a lot of punctures on my 22mm tires riding to work every day in boston. All of the punctures were from small pieces glass. After a few weeks of almost weekly flats i got tuffy tire liners and now i no longer get flats. Question: Is there some other better solution then tire liners because they were really difficult to put in? <Q> Some tire makers have a thicker center. <S> Specialized Armadillo based tires will work wonders. <S> They are a bit heavier, but worth it. <S> Specialized Armadillo Tires <S> Im sure there are others, but this is the one I have used the most on my commuter road bike. <A> Similar to Matt Adams' suggestion, I'd go with Continental Gatorskins or Armidillo or other kevlar lined tires. <S> This will provide you with a little more material to fend off glass and other debris. <S> It'll also be a bit more comfortable of a ride for commuting. <A> Have you tried SLIME or similar sealant? <S> Saw this one a while back, way more hard core than slime, but after looking into it I decided Slime works best for me <S> (I only ever get thorns, high PSI will usually prevent most glass from sticking long enough to puncture) - Using a sealant allows you to keep any tire you prefer. <S> Cons: can be messy, doesnt prevent snakebites. <A> Did you get the right size of liners? <S> They sell a couple different sizes (you can tell the size by the color). <S> I have 28s <S> and I didn't have that much trouble putting them in. <S> Maybe narrow tires are more troublesome. <S> Also, I've had great experiences with tuffy tire liners. <S> Combined with Gatorskins, tires are pretty resistant to punctures. <S> Ran over a broken beer bottle, heard it crush under my tires, and still no flat. <S> A little tricky to get them in there, but defintely not something you have to do very often. <S> Probably worth the trouble. <S> Checking their site, you should have the orange liners. <A> Your first best solution would be bigger tires. <S> 22's are really light weight and are intended for racing, not commuting. <S> Foldable tires are also usually a little thinner more prone to punctures than non-foldable tires. <S> So get something non-foldable. <S> Bonus: <S> non-foldable tires are usually cheaper. <S> " They have an extra layer embedded in the rubber that helps prevent flats. <S> You won't actually be able to see it <S> but they'll probably have a cutaway picture on the label. <S> I've never used it, but I know people who swear by it. <A> Panaracer Ribmo PT . <S> These tires never flat on me. <S> They are really thick and tend to be pretty good for fixed gear riders as well. <S> The panaracer T-serve is also a bit lighter, but has good flat protection too. <A> If you are just commuting and dont need much performance wise, you might look into the foam inserts like these: http://bit.ly/L1mKJO <S> They are a pain to get on and almost impossible to get off (I had to cut my tire to get it off) <S> but they never get flats. <S> The biggest problem is that I need my tires to be 85+ psi <S> and I have not found any to replicate over 65. <S> Another problem some say is that if you hit a pothole that the impact goes directly into your rims, with weak rims that would be a problem, but I have triple walls. <S> But like I said, I would only use these on commuter bikes rather than performance bikes.
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Most companies make tires that are "puncture-resistant. As someone else suggested, you could use slime. Additionally, I'd suggest that you move to something a bit larger such as 25mm for commuting. 22mm/23mm tires are mostly used for racing and are usually very soft and prone to picking up and holding on to debris like this.
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If I can't find the hole causing a flat tire, do I need to replace the tube? My back tire got flat. If I pump it up now, it can hold the air for about 30 minutes to an hour before it's totally flat. I took out the inner-tube yesterday, pump in a bit air and put it into water, trying to find a hole but couldn't find anything. Could it be that the tire is too old and I must replace it? EDIT: thanks to all your response. Beside soap water, I found out hot water is really helpful and that was what I used to fix my tire. There was a very tiny hole on the tube that I couldn't find when I used room temperature water. <Q> Sometimes it can be hard to find a small hole. <S> Sometimes it helps to mix water and dish soap together and either pour that over the partially inflated tire, scanning for leaks or submerging the tire in a bucket of soapy water. <S> The soap will bubble and make holes more apparent. <S> You also probably want to immerse the valve to see if the leak may be originating from there. <S> If the problem is coming from the valve, then you will want to go ahead and just replace the tube. <A> Take the tube out and pump it up so that it balloons to 2-3 times its normal size. <S> There have been times when the puncture is too small to detect in normal situations, even soapy water, but this has never failed me! <S> Even the smallest puncture, like from a brake cable sliver, will show itself. <S> Listen for the hiss and then mark it with a pen to find it after you deflate it <S> (Usually I make 4 lines coming out away from the hole, like an X but with the middle taken out, this pic is just an X, but the 4 lines makes it easier to pinpoint). <S> If this doesn't produce any results it might be in the valve. <S> this will allow you to feel any air leaking out. <S> With a Presta it is a little harder, but wrap your wet thumb and index finder around the top of the valve to check it. <S> Most of the time you can fix the Schrader using a core tool, not sure you can do anything to fix a Presta (but aside from a bent core bolt I've never seen a Presta valve leak) <A> To answer the question directly, yes, if your tube is losing air that quickly, it needs repair. <S> It is not a matter of simply being too old. <S> There is likely a very small hole or a leak in the valve. <S> Replace the tube, or patch it. <S> Benzo's soapy water suggestion will work very well. <A> In my experience (twice) : To find where the puncture is based I get a bucket of water and have the inner tube inflated to the point where i can bend it into the bucket sections at a time. <S> Naturally I see bubbles on the tube under the water at the bends in the tube due to trapped air... <S> but if you squeeze the tube you should find bubbles rising. <S> Move the tube out and put in a new section, repeating around the entire tube to make sure there isn't more than one puncture. <S> Around one bubble per tire squeeze should be apparent when you have found the issue. <A> Before replacing the tire, you could try putting slime tire repair sealant in the tube. <S> In my experience, slime is very efficient in closing the hard to find punctures from the inside. <S> After inserting the slime, pump the tire to the max and ride your bike for a while and see if it works. <A> I've used this to quickly identify leaks that were so slow they took days to deflate the tube.
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My favorite method is to remove the tube from the tire, reinflate it a bit, and completely submerse it in a swimming pool. If you have a Schrader, get your finger wet and put it lightly over the top (I spit on the ground and put my finger in it)
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What is this rubber ring around the top tube for I have seen these on a few bikes. What is the purpose :S <Q> It protects the frame from the handlebars. <S> The handlebars, unrestricted by brake or derailleur cables, can rotate freely to the point that they can smack into the top tube. <S> This is particularly easy to do when carrying the bike. <A> I have also seen them used to protect the paint while the bike is on a trunk mounted rack. <A> First off, track bikes cannot be slowed down by pedaling backwards. <S> They are fixed gear bikes, which means that as long as the wheel is moving, the cranks are also moving (and vice versa). <S> Track bikes are slowed down by using your leg muscles to slow down the rotation of the cranks. <S> If you tried to 'pedal backwards' while moving at any decent speed on a track bike, you'd just hurt yourself. <S> Since there is no front brake or cables on the bike when one is racing, it's quite common, if one crashes, for the handlebars to rotate around and hit (and sometimes dent), the top tube. <S> Track bars usually only have grips on the flat part of the drops, so you are risking metal to metal contact when that happens. <S> Do they add protection on a bike rack? <S> Sure. <S> Do they give your track bike some street cred? <S> Definitely.
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Now, getting to the pad on the top tube, that is a protector that some riders use to protect the tube if it gets hit by the handlebars.
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Front derailleur is hard to shift into the big ring. Where to start? I have a shifting problem on a bike that has a crank with a triple set of chainrings. The bike is a tandem. I have to put a great deal of effort to get it to shift into the big ring. Where should I start? Is there a simple adjustment I should look at first or should just jump right to replacing cables and housing? Vitals: * STI shifters * 2004 Shimano Tiagra * triple * tandem * probably same cables/housing from 2004. * bike has 4000 miles on it, maybe more <Q> First off, of course, lubricate the cables and assure that the derailers are properly adjusted. <S> Also, understand that you must let up a hair on the cranks when up-shifting the front -- don't do it under full load. <S> But if not that then likely the rings are worn out. <S> Even if the chain and rings gauge out OK (did you check them??) <S> the ramps on the side of the big ring may be worn to the point that they're no longer effective. <A> This is not uncommon with the old Shimano components. <S> I had the same front derailleur and 105 STI 9-speed shifters <S> and I had to really crank it to go into the larger cogs. <S> The bike shop replaced the cabling (there wasn't much housing) and that really didn't help all that much, though I wish it did. <S> The problem sort of fixed itself when I purchased a new bike with modern components. <S> 2009 or later shimano 105 (shifters and derailleurs) are much, much easier to shift up through the cogs. <S> Just push the button and it takes care of the rest. <S> No having to push on it to get it to the next cog. <S> I am sorry I wish there was more I could recommend, but in my experience, there is not much you can do with that setup... <A> With my older Shimano setup I found that as it aged I had to adjust the limit screws on the front derailleur to allow it to travel past the correct position because it would then settle back a couple of millimetres - probably most of the cause was old cables, but some was definitely just old/worn components in the derailleur itself allowing flex. <S> As @bwalk2895 mentioned, it is an age thing - you can hold it off by tweaking (and in fact mine was much older and was still usable when I finally retired it for a new bike) but changing cables is relatively simple and should help a bit. <A> I know this is an old post <S> but it comes up top in search and so might help others. <S> I had this problem with SRAM Rival, stiff front derailleur and a loud clunk when shifting to the small ring. <S> I found that it was caused by a misrouting of the cable around the anchor bolt <S> such that excessive force was required to overcome the poor leverage. <S> I am convinced that it is a poor design of the front derailleur lever which isn't long enough. <A> Park tool's site breaks down how to adjust the front derailer pretty well. <S> http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/front-derailleur-adjustments Check the high limit screw first. <S> If that doesn't do it, you probably want to play around with the indexing adjustment (possibly needs some tension due to cable stretch over time). <S> It's not going to hurt if you lube the existing cables as well. <A> I could solve this problem by replacing the front derailleur with one that satisfied the following conditions. <S> The spring is weaker than the current one. <S> When the cage is between the 2nd gear ring and the third gear ring, the arm to which the cable is attached becomes almost horizontal. <S> This condition maximizes the force exerted to make a shift from the 2nd gear ring to the third gear ring. <S> The derailleur selected must be able to cover all the gear rings.
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After fiddling with it for ages I moved the cable outside of the cable pinch bolt clamp to give greater leverage. After that, make sure you're not cross-chaining too much when shifting up -- you should have your rear near the outer cog before up-shifting the front, so that the angle of the chain isn't fighting you.
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What causes the threads on bike pedals to become stripped? Is there something I can do to prevent my bike pedals from wearing out? And what causes the threads on a bike pedal to wear out? I have a 4 year old Raleigh road bike with just regular open pedals. After 300 miles of riding, I had to replace the pedals because one of them broke off when the threads on the arm that the pedal screws into wore out. The bike repairman offered to send the pedal out to be re-threaded but that would have taken a week and cost more than just replacing the pedals. Any suggestions or recommendations? <Q> It probably means that the pedal was never installed correctly: either it was not tightened enough or <S> it was cross-threaded. <S> It's actually not that hard to install a pedal incorrectly. <S> If you miss perfectly aligning the threads, it's called cross threading. <S> It's possible to cross thread the pedals and still have them feel like the pedal look like it is installed properly. <S> However, if you look closely, you'd see that the pedal isn't perfectly perpendicular to the crank. <S> When you pedal, you'll feel a pop as the pedal goes around when your foot crests and the pedal (due to not being parallel to the crank) has to change orientation. <S> Over time movements of the pedal relative to the crank will slowly strip out the threads on the crank, on the pedal, or both. <S> I could speculate that your raleigh may have been purchased at a department store, and that it wasn't assembled by a professional. <S> They didn't install the pedal correctly. <A> Having never had this happen, and having had one bike for over twenty years, I can only think that the pedal must never have been tightened up properly, so it was moving and wearing out - otherwise the pedal/crank connection is actually pretty solid. <S> It is something that can be hard to tighten, especially as one thread is clockwise and one counterclockwise, which can confuse people. <A> Either that or it simply wasn't properly tightened to begin with. <S> (In fact, a right-hand pedal may have been force-fit into the left crank or some such.) <S> In any event, the crank arm (in addition to the pedal) is likely damaged beyond use. <S> The only possible repair of the crank arm is to install a "Helicoil" repair kit, if one can be found of the correct size (and rotation). <A> In my experience the best way to fix/prevent that issue is before you install the pedals make sure to apply a water proof grease like this to the threads. <S> It costs about 3 dollars and will ensure that the threads will be less likely to cross thread and most importantly the pedals won't seize or stick to the crank <S> arm the next time you change out the pedals. <S> If the damage is already done you can buy a 9/16" 20 tpi die to re-thread the pedal like in the image below and a 9/16" 20 tpi tap to re-thread the crank arm.
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I would guess that the pedal was cross-threaded.
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XC (mountain bike) tire for dry hardpack and loose conditions I am just looking for a a new set of tires for my front suspension mountain bike (has a newer nicer fork on it now). I mostly ride in the Gatineau Park in Eastern Ontario. The conditions are almost always dry. There is quite a bit of loose gravel and a good amount of hardpack. The terrine is pretty hilly and occasionally I find myself loosing traction on my rear tire while climbing. Right now I am riding a pair of stock tires. Both tires are pretty cheap. Rear tire . Front tire . Am interesting in upgrading to get a bit more performance out of my bike. Would also like to reduce the rolling resistance. Couple questions: What difference will more expensive tires make? What width of tires will work best for the conditions described? What price range is reasonable for a good set of XC tires? Any other pieces of wisdom I should consider when choosing tires? Any examples of good tires for these conditions. <Q> the tyre carcass reacts better to bumps and curves, have a good cushioning effect and a good rolling resistance. <S> I'd say there is a perceiveably relationship between price and quality, or at least the vast majority of low-price tires are not very good compared to medium- <S> to high-priced ones; For the described conditions, I'd say 2.0 would be best, some might prefer 1.95, some up to 2.2. <S> More than this is possible, but probably not necessary; Cannot tell about price range, depends on country; Tires are funny in a way that the best tires (so as the best suspensions) do their work quietly. <S> If you notice that you just GO, enjoying the trail and never ever having to think about the tire, traction, cornering control, pinch flats, etc., then the tire is good, it's doing its magic. <S> Not-so-good tyres constantly remind you they're there, and you end up thinking: "this f***ing tire sucks!"; Tire models/brands are a very personal matter, but I had good tires - ones that did their magic - from (not in any order) <S> Bontrager, Specialized, Maxxis, Ritchey, WTB, Panaracer, Tioga. <A> Those tyres look a little aggressive for dry, hard pack XC riding to me. <S> I ride XC in Australia and use Maxxis Crossmark, they are a great tyre for this type of terrain. <S> As for loosing grip when climbimg, try to stay seated but slide forward onto the nose of the saddle to shift your weight slightly to the front. <S> This will help keep weight on the back tyre but also stop the front wheel from poping up. <S> Also ensure that your leg is at almost full stretch on the down stroke of your peddle with just a slight bend in the knee. <A> You should talk to some local riders & bike shops as they'll probably know the terrain best and can probably recommend an appropriate tire. <A> Knobbier tires help, but more so focus on trying to sit as much as possible while climbing. <S> This will really help keep extra weight on the back tire and prevent it from loosing traction. <S> You'll want to make sure you have your seat high enough to facilitate this.
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A good quality bike tire usually has a better size tolerance, a better rubber compound (might make more difference on traction than thread geometry itself), a better seating on the rim, and a better "feel" -
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What are the pros and cons of sunscreen vs. protective clothing? I have decided that, lack of sunburn aside, I need to get back to being pretty serious about UV protection. I've been sloppy about it for a few years, and would like to not continue inviting skin cancer. I'm on my bike for 90 to 120 minutes every day, about 45 minutes in the morning and 55 minutes in the evening. But, I'm in Austin, which means intense ambient heat and intense sun during the summer. Sometimes I resent stop lights because they leave me sitting in direct sunlight with absolutely no air flow to cool me down. Sometimes it's so hot that doesn't do any good, anyway. So far as I see it, my options are to lather up my arms, legs, and face with sunscreen twice a day, adding on a hat beneath my helmet (or getting a solid helmet); or to get some of the UV-protective clothing like what Izumi makes and wear that on most of my rides, though that means extra cloth on my arms, legs, and hands, and thus more gear that I have to cope with. Clothing appeals from a reusability standpoint. It might also help by reflecting more sunlight and thus more heat. Sunscreen appeals from a "not putting on cloth that traps heat" pespective. So, in bright/hot areas, which is more comfortable? Should I just try both and see which I find more comfortable? Even more importantly, which provides adequate protection? And, if parts of my body are not tanning at all (such as, under my shirt), am I actually getting adequate protection there? <Q> Unlike walking or standing still, there's always a breeze as long as you are pedaling which increases comfort. <S> Long sleeves and long pants may be comfortable on a bike in hot weather even when they are uncomfortable indoors or walking outdoors. <S> Pros for Sunscreen as sun protection while biking <S> It's invisible. <S> You can wear whatever you want. <S> Pros for clothing as sun protection while biking Unlike sunscreen, it doesn't wear out after 80 minutes. <S> You are never left wondering if it's time to re-apply or not. <S> While you may find that your sunscreen has run out half-way through a multi-hour ride (as I recently did), you are less likely to find yourself unexpected naked half-way through a ride. <S> Regular clothing often has some amount of UV protection. <S> While you might need to opt for full-coverage clothing, you don't necessarily need special clothing <S> Doesn't involve covering your skin in chemicals. <S> Don't have that covered-in-sunblock feeling at the end of a ride. <S> Here's a photo of clothing-as-sunscreen before I departed with a friend on a 114 mile day on loaded touring bikes: <S> On a trip this past weekend I decided to spray-on sun-block instead. <S> We I went to re-apply some half-way through the trip, I found the canister was empty. <S> Sunblock-Fail. <A> I like wearing a clean long-sleeved shirt of e.g. thin cotton or cotton/poly. <S> It is hot <S> so I perspire. <S> So I am cycling in the (endless) breeze, and wearing a wet shirt, which is cooling. <S> Beware: <S> http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11312422 <S> concludes, The two cotton fabrics used in this study offered limited protection against UV radiation Laundering with detergent and water improves UPF slightly by causingfabric shrinkage. <S> Dyeing fabrics [to blue or yellow] or adding aUV-absorbing agent during laundering substantially reduces UVtransmission and increases UPF. <S> More UVA is transmitted through thefabrics than UVB. <A> Sunscreen pros Allows use only on body locations preferred. <S> You can alter the SPF to whatever the situation requires. <S> Can be used for other outdoor activities besides cycling. <S> Sunscreen cons <S> The price can be rather high for a SPF above 35. <S> It will come off with sweat and will need to be re-applied during a longer ride. <S> You must keep it out of your eyes! <S> UV protective clothing pros Protects without feeling "clammy", greasy like a sunscreen can. <S> You won't have to worry about re-applying sunscreen during a ride, although you may still need some sunscreen for your neck and ear area. <S> It can actually move the sweat away from your skin for better cooling. <S> UV protective clothing cons <S> May need to be laundered using special UV detergent. <S> Usually loses the UV protection capability after a certain number of washings. <S> It really boils down to personal preference, or using a combination of the two.
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Clothing is a good choice for sun block while cycling. The UV protective clothing can be expensive initially.
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Rotate or replace tires I ride a cross bike mostly on the road right now and my rear tire is wearing much faster than my front, which is to be expected. I found the following thread which I think is a similar question but not quite the same, Should I change both tires when I need to change one? which says to just buy one tire and replace the front tire with the new tire and move the old front to the rear. As this article says you want a good tire on the front for traction and safety. My questions are: If I am riding knobby tires that have been worn, wouldn't that just make them a little more road like and help with the road riding that I am doing? Why it a bad idea to rotate tires instead of replacing the worn tire? I would like to stress that they are not "bad" just the knobs have been worn smoother or maybe that makes them bad. Also, I don't use slicks because I do have short portions of several rides that I do which have short stretches of dirt and/or gravel. <Q> With a bike tire you shouldn't run into this problem (unless you make a lot of left turns, or a lot of right turns). <S> "Rotating" in this case means moving the less-worn one (front tire) to the position where it'll get more wear (to the back) and replacing the more-worn one in the position where it'll get less use (to the front). <S> This means you don't have to buy 2 tires when one gets worn (just one). <S> A couple of observations. <S> If you play games with your tires (e.g., stickier front tire, deeper groove on the rear, etc.) <S> you should obviously replace the tire with one with similar characteristics, so you won't be able to swap them around. <S> Typically, one replaces a tire when it either has a huge gash or has worn down to the point where there's a significant decline in the performance <S> (i.e., no tread left or it's about to blow). <S> If you're using knobby tires and you're wearing the nubs down <S> you're correct in that they'll take on the characteristics of road slicks. <S> It's not necessarily "bad" to rotate them; if you can only afford one tire or the other one is perfectly good <S> it means you can continue to ride without having to miss meals or rent payments. <S> If you're still able to maintain the needed grip throughout your ride (road and gravel) there's no real reason to replace them if they're just a little worn. <S> If, on the other hand, you're starting to have difficulty with traction, control, leaks, etc. <S> it might be time to replace them. <S> An alternative to "rotating" your tires would be to buy a new set (if you can afford them) and save the less-worn of your two existing ones as a spare just in case you run over a chunk of glass or something. <A> I dont rotate tires on a bike. <S> I dont think I have heard you should. <S> It will help the tires to wear together but unlike a car, it doesn't cause problems if you don't. <S> I will buy 3-4 rear tires for every front tire. <S> There is also the issue with better performance with some tires on the front vs rear, just not designed to be on both. <S> That said, I tend to stay away from knobbies, even on my "dirt" bike. <S> The knobs put up quite a bit of wind resistance vs road tires, I found this out bombing a really steep road, I could feel them push the wind. <S> You say there are "short stretches of dirt" in your rides. <S> Even when I raced in dirt I used street tires. <S> Knobbies have better grip on acceleration and in turns but it is not like glue. <S> I would rather have the street tires and know I will slide at 35 degrees than have the knobbies and think I can hit a turn at 36 degrees and slide. <S> Especially when you are only using the knobs on "short stretches of dirt", you might consider street tires to help with better traction and road resistance on the street and better wind resistance all around. <S> And there is a HUGE difference in riding knobs on the street vs road tires, they can cause you to slide out way easier on tight turns. <A> There appears to be confusion on this issue, I think the answer is here: Back tires wear out quicker than front tires. <S> Therefore, someone wonders if they should be swapped to even out the wear. <S> However, apparently front tire blowouts are more dangerous, so this is not a good idea (to have more worn out tires up front than back). <S> But it is a good idea to move the less worn-out tire to the back, and then replace the front with a brand-new tire, rather than replace both whenever the back tire becomes worn out. <S> If the back tire wears out two or three times as fast as the front, and you rotate a front tire to back <S> and then replace the front with a brand new front tire, you will end up saving 1-2 tires per rotation versus if you changed both at the same time whenever one (usually the rear tire) was bad.
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Rotating tires on a car is usually done to even out the wear (unless you have specific front / back / left / right tires) across the tread - they'll often wear on the outside of the tread, so rotating them presents fresher tread to the gripping surfaces (i.e., they're wearing at the places that make the most contact with the road).
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Cross training athlete, running out of energy during long rides, what should I eat before I ride? I'm a high performance rower that uses cycling extensively to cross train (the local waterways are.....suboptimal some of the time). When I'm out for longer rides (2-3hr) I generally run out of calories and crash, occasionally getting dizzy. I've started carrying a camel pack and some snacks (granola, GU, etc.) which helps if the pack decides to stop for a quick pitstop but its often hard to get enough calories down fast without feeling it 10 minutes later. I never have problems within my normal training but it typically never exceeds 2.5hrs and isn't quite as continuous. Such a workout can easily burn 1500+ Cal, however. My question is, is there anything I can eat before rides to maintain blood sugar levels so I don't pass out while trying to strike fear into the hearts of the local cyclists? <Q> I don't know what you consider a "long ride" to be <S> but I just did a 77 mile fund-raiser ride yesterday in Ohio. <S> I averaged a little over 16mph for the entire ride. <S> About 50 miles of the ride was into a 10-15 mph head-wind. <S> During the ride, I probably went through 10 large bottles of water and Gatorade, a dozen energy bars, a couple brownies and a Subway sub. <S> The temperature was in the mid-80's with a little humidity. <S> Even with all that, there were times <S> I was a little light-headed and got some chills (almost a sure sign of not enough hydration). <S> So on rides like this, you almost cannot drink and eat enough. <S> It's very important you try though. <S> If you don't, your body will let you know it, and you won't like how it feels :). <S> You don't necessarily need the pack to stop just to hydrate and eat. <S> And you can probably include two bottles on your bike. <A> I'm going to guess that you shouldn't be looking to replace those 1500 calories immediately during the ride. <S> Shouldn't part of your energy-to-exercise come from burning stored body-fat? <S> And a lot of your energy, from the food you ate the day and week (not just an hour or two) before the ride? <S> Compare your 1500+ Cal, with the 15000+ calories in one day that is needed to swim the cold English Channel. <A> My question is, is there anything I can eat before rides to maintain blood sugar levels <S> so I don't pass out while trying to strike fear into the hearts of the local cyclists? <S> It's not difficult. <S> Option <S> 1 - Carry along "energy" (not protein bars) bars, or gel packs, etc, and consume freely. <S> Option 2 - "Make it yourself" - Boiled potatoes or any high carb snack should work. <S> Option 3 - Pre-made product - Something like Hammer Perpetuem or other similar products. <S> Any of these during the ride. <S> All of the above thinking that you're doing at least 2+ hours of riding. <S> Pre-ride - Eat some complex carbs. <S> Oatmeal? <S> Or something like that? <S> Your complaint is: <S> When I'm out for longer rides (2-3hr) <S> I generally run out of calories and crash, <S> Interesting. <S> Calories can be consumed while riding. <S> Running out means that you didn't bring any with you. <S> Bring some along on your next ride.
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Most cycling jerseys have enough pockets to store a lot of energy bars and bottles of water. Actually, you need to consume calories during the ride.
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Left side of my foot -- 8 inches up leg numb? First of all -- I know this isn't Medical-Overflow-Exchange, sorry. But, I think my issue may be cycle related. I've been riding a lot lately, and actually just started riding Fixed again. And for about 3 weeks the whole left side of my foot and about 6-8 inches up my leg are completely numb! I've read it could be related to my back, I've been cycling and when even not cycling carrying a sling bag for work; with a Laptop and a few notebooks in it. Anybody come across this before? <Q> I've heard that sling bags are terrible for your back. <S> They don't distribute the weight evenly at all, and can cause major problems I don't know why they are so popular. <S> I guess backpacks look too "high-school". <S> They make a few of them that are specially equipped for carrying laptops. <S> If it's the bike, you might want to check that everything is aligned properly. <S> Ensure that your seat is straight and level. <S> Check for a bent axles in the wheels and bottom brackets, although that may be less likely. <S> I guess a couple clarifications could help diagnose some other posibilities. <S> Do you have brakes on your fixie? <S> If you do have brakes, do you use them? <S> Do you wear bike shoes or have toe clips? <S> Is the pain always there, or only after a prolonged ride? <S> If it's continuous, I'd definitely get myself to a doctor. <S> That's way too long to be numb in such a large part of your body. <A> It's not unusual for the feet to get a bit numb from long-duration riding, but the numbness wouldn't be expected to extend far from the contact point of the pedal. <S> This can be a back problem, but may also be something akin to piriformis syndrome where the muscles of the upper leg compress nerves feeding down the leg. <S> This is particularly likely if you've been hyper-exercising and are experiencing some degree of swelling of the upper leg muscles. <S> Kind of a toss-up as to whether it should be a neuro or an ortho <S> -- I'd be slightly inclined towards the ortho, as he would be more familiar with disorders due to overtraining. <S> Or a "sports medicine" guy might be good, if you can see one relatively quickly. <S> If the numbness progresses much, or if there is any accompanying paralysis, it would become a medical emergency. <A> sounds like your aggravating your sciatic nerve. <S> If you have lower back issues, it can do the same, but you said complete numbness. <S> The sciatic nerve would only cause numbness and/or pain on the outside of your leg and foot. <S> A disc problem could cause complete numbness
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It can cause numbness on the way down to the foot. The fact that the numbness extends up the leg suggests that it's neurological, likely due to a compressed nerve somewhere "upstream". Ensure that you handle bars are properly aligned. You need to cut back substantially in your training and see a doc. But I would start by getting a backpack.
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Can I fit a cassette with a larger range with my Shimano Tiagra 10-speed ( GS-4600) derailleur? I'm currently running a 2x10 shimano tiagra 10-speed drivetrain with a 50/34 compact crankset, a 12-30 rear cassette, and a Shimano Tiagra GS-4600 derailleur (that's medium cage aka road long cage) on a light touring / road bike. I tend to ride a lot of hills and want a touch more range for tough climbs. Can I make this work with an 11-32 or 11-34 mountain cassette or do I need to get a long cage derailleur? It looks like I might answer my own questions, becuase the specs say, they say I shouldn't really run more than a 30t max in the rear. However, I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this and had success going past spec with this derailleur or if I should resign myself to spending more cash on a new derailleur. <Q> With the b-screw tightened all the way on the medium cage <S> GS-4600 tiagra derailleur <S> I was able to install the 11-32 cassette. <S> It was obvious from the appearance that I wouldn't be able to squeeze any larger of a cassette on the rear wheel without switching to a long cage mountain or touring derailleur. <S> There were no issues when shifting with the 34t front chainring in or out of the 32t rear cog. <S> However, using the 50t front chainring, shifting out of the large 32t cog was a little off. <S> It worked, but it was lagging a bit and having a harder time jumping to the next cog, probably due to the chain being too short since I didn't adjust the chain length. <S> This should be solved by adding a link or two to the chain. <S> However, I'm going to be swapping in a 46t large chainring, so that should address the lack of slack. <S> I shouldn't even be in the big ring in the back and the big ring in the front anyway to avoid cross chaining. <A> You are correct. <S> You have answered your own question. <S> A 30t cog is maximum for the Tiagra derailleur. <S> At that point it usually ends up in your wheel, and jammed against the chain stays on your frame. <A> I just modified my Merida Race Lite 903 which has a similar off the store set up like yours a week ago, the hills here are tough (Sangklaburi, Kanchanaburi, Thailand). <S> I changed the Cassete that was 11/28T to 11/34T <S> and it worked without replacing the rear derailleur with a long cage (XT Deore). <S> did this by turning all the way to the bottom the screw of the tiagra short cage RD to adjust the pull of the spring on the chain... <S> noticed that the upper pulley chain guide space is just a few millimeters but not hitting the large cog as i change gears... <S> I did not change the chain either, but i cannot use the large chaining on the largest cog... <S> this combination not a good combination anyway... <A> Just to add one more perspective:I've done this on a racing route full of hills. <S> I swapped out my medium cage 105 for a mountain bike derailleur (Deore 9 speed). <S> I was teased a bit, but after 85 miles I was asked a lot of questions as to how I did this and why it worked. <S> Large cog was 34, and I had no problems shifting. <S> So consider dishing out for a mountain bike derailleur if this is to be an everyday sort of thing. <S> They look fine, have tons of adjustment and are much cheaper than road stuff.
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Using anything larger risks damage to derailleur, derailleur hanger, rear wheel and your frame, since shifting into a cross chain position can tear your derailleur off the bike.
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Why are rear shocks at a 30 degree angle and the mud-guards so high? For bikes like these , why aren't the rear shocks (the shocks are directly above the pedal) vertical like those of a motorcycle? I don't see how the bike can take shocks when the shock absorber is at such a low angle. A friend said the mud-guard is so high because there's no other way to attach it to the cycle at a lower height. Is that really the reason why the mud-guard is so high? <Q> What's above the rear wheel for vertical shocks to mount to? <S> It's pretty clear from the provided picture that the fulcrum for the rear wheel is near the bottom bracket. <A> From my understanding, one of the major features for bicycle suspension is vertical travel. <S> This is to increase pedal efficiency and rear wheel feel. <S> This is why you see engineers jump through hoops when designing rear suspension for bicycles. <S> For example, take a look at the Pivot Mach 429 . <S> If I count correctly, this bike has 5 points of rotation to accomplish beter pedal efficiency as well as offering more rear-wheel travel. <S> Some motorcycles do have non-vertical mounted suspension as well; the first to come to mind is the Kawasaki Ninja 650 . <S> As for the "mud-guard", that is often referred to as a filth prophylactic . <S> This isn't intended to do much more than keep mud off your shirt and backside. <S> Full fenders can be quite difficult to mount to a full-suspension bike (everything keeps moving, man!) <S> so filth prophylactics are common "good enough" equipment. <S> They also tend to have very little in frame requirements (full fenders require braze-ons for mounting them), so they fit on most any bike. <A> The fender or "mud guard" is so high because if it was much lower the tire would be banging into it whenever the shock compressed. <A> The rear wheel is attached to stays that connect to a pivot point. <S> As long as when the rear wheel moves upwards, the wheel and stays all rotate around the pivot to compress (or stretch, depending on shock type) <S> the shock, then the rear suspension should work fine. <S> But, unlike the picture you showed, there are a number of pivot points. <S> The bike you showed has a single pivot near the crank and pedal area. <S> http://www.dirtragmag.com/sites/default/files/blogarific/wp-content/uploads/2007/06/trek-fuel-ex-full.jpg <S> Most mountain bikers I know don't bother with mudguards, because the faff of them is annoying (it's not because of lack of mud, I'm in the UK and it can get pretty muddy at times). <S> So, they're usually not fitted to mountain bikes as standards. <S> That means, this one has to be fitted to the seat tube, and it doesn't move with the wheel as it takes up shocks.
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Take a look at this bike, the shock is vertical. An upward force against the rear wheel will cause it to lift, reducing the distance between it and the mount point of the shock, allowing the shock to resist that movement. The mudguard is high so that the wheel doesn't hit it and to ensure there is plenty of mud clearance.
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Self-made studded tyre with glue? Can I glue circular pieces of some sort of uneven tiny metal heads, on every other knob of my mountain bike tyre, to bike in winter with snow and ice? If glue sounds too naive to some, there are some really professional hard to undo glues out there today, like those used in contruction work, that are super strong and anti-corrosion and sort of can be molded even and when dried they are like rock. <Q> If you have disc brakes you can use zip ties to create a cheap studded tire and can remove the zip ties when you're done. <S> Get long enough zip ties to go around your tire and rim. <S> Because of this, it will not work with rim based brakes. <A> I am nearly certain the answer is no. <S> Any metal or hard plastic will flex very little compared to the rubber of the tire, which flexes more than you think. <S> There is no glue I have ever heard of or used, including the Gorilla glues and epoxies, that would ever hold these two together - it'd essentially have to be so strong that the rubber won't flex under your weight as you ride, and unless it's top secret <S> I'd just sum it up to be: <S> that doesn't exist and probably never will. <S> Drilling, however, is not hard. <S> You select a screw that protrudes from the lug by the amount you want (1/8" or so for a bicycle would be appropriate), screw it in with a drill from the outside <S> so there's a hole on the inside, then screw it through from the inside out. <S> Then you need to line the inside with rim tape so that the screw heads don't pop your inner tube, but if you do this yourself, they probably will <S> (there aren't enough tire/metal bands like a motorcycle/vehicle tire to keep the screws in place, they'll start pushing into the tube and eventually get through). <S> In my opinion, neither option is good, or would do anything for your traction besides waste your time. <A> The problem IMO will be that you need a glue that flexes with the rubber tyre. <S> A rigid glue will just break off taking some of the rubber from the tyre with it. <S> I'm imagining something like the sealant glues that come in a sealant gun, rather than a cyanoacetate type super glue. <S> The ones used to glue concrete together, for example, that have to fill gaps as well as adhere. <S> The metal bits will be more of a problem I think. <S> You need a good area for the glue to stick to, but you also need sharp edges to grip the snow. <S> So just attaching 10mm washers flat on the tyre probably won't help. <S> I suspect you'll end up gluing screws across the tyre to more or less match the way the DIY screw tyres work. <S> I suggest covering the screw with glue, then let the glue wear away from the outside when it hits the track. <S> I'd be tempted to start by trying a few screws with each type of glue that I had available just to see whether any of them work at all. <S> And whether you can ride the bike with this setup. <S> Usual caveats apply: <S> I haven't done this, I doubt it will work, but this seems to be to be the approach least unlikely to fail. <A> When I was in Hokkaido, Japan (Very cold, almost no snow removal) I saw a few guys that screwed screws through their knobs. <S> It seemed to work pretty well. <S> They protected the tube by putting Mr. <S> Tuffy's in there as well. <S> It might work better and last longer than glue. <A> There's a video here of a guy putting studs on ATV tires. <S> They just screw into the tire knobs. <S> I imagine this would be much harder on a bicycle (since the tread is much thinner and you have less room for error) but not impossible. <S> I would forget about adhesives - you need something that sticks to the tread with just mechanical friction.
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But given a flexible glue that bonds to the rubber and fills the space between tyre and metal object, I think it could work. I'd even go further and say even if you got them joined, it wouldn't be a very good or effective tire. If money's really that tight, look for used studded tires on craigslist or eBay - some will be half retail, at least, and may actually help your traction.
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How to nonverbaly signal a drafting proposition to fellow cyclist? There are situations when words cannot be used, e.g. during heavy wind or when someone is out of breath. Is there an universal hand signal to communicate a proposition of a chain gang behavior to fellow cyclist? <Q> Yes. <S> There are a number of different ways to initiate a paceline via hand signals, but the most common one I've seen and used is to make a circle with an upwards pointed finger. <S> Watch Peter Sagan (white jersey, yellow/red helmet) do this in the following video. <S> He's joking in this situation, but note that his fellow sprinters all know that he's referring to starting a paceline, which is why Greipel (green jersey) checks the gap to the rest of the peloton. <A> Here's an easy recipe that I've seen used in a number of casual riding situations with anonymous cyclists: <S> You should take the first pull, so pass the rider on the left. <S> Make sure you're going slow enough that she can actually hitch a ride without a massive sprint. <S> When your rear wheel is passing her front wheel (ie. <S> about the time she can see you without having to turn her head), pat your upper butt <S> /hip a couple of times on her side . <S> This should be a friendly "come here" gesture. <S> When it's safe to do so, pull in front of her. <S> (But don't slow down so much that she'll just have to pass you again!) <S> Once it looks like she's on, slowly and evenly accelerate up to your desired pace. <S> Keep in mind that some people aren't comfortable drafting and that others may not even understand the concept, so of course this won't always work. <A> I prefer to come ahead of the other person and once I'm far enough in front of them that they can see me (but still not completely ahead of them) <S> I'll point at my rear wheel with my right hand (i.e., the hand that's closest to the other rider). <S> Usually they'll either pull forward ("no thanks - I'll keep pulling") or drop back slightly ("thank god - what took you so long?"). <S> On the few times when there's been confusion I've found that they'll usually pull around you if they didn't want to draft.
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You may also consider slowing down slightly to further communicate that you aren't interested in blowing by her.
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What is the hand gesture for "I'm sorry"? I usually signal "turn left" and "turn right" and "pass me by, take point". However, there is one more situation that happens to me often and I do not know a widely accepted gesture to convey my thoughts. How do I express that "I am sorry." to a car driver near me (car driver == probably won't hear me, so a hand gesture is needed). As in "I cut you off, sorry man!". <Q> I use a sort of wave, raising my hand but with no movement in it (so not a 'Hey buddy' or 'I need help' side to side movement).... <S> it works on my bicycle, on my motorcycle, and while driving a vehicle. <S> It's got somewhat of a dual purpose: <S> acknowledgement that I did something wrong, <S> and/or 'thanks for letting me in' gratitude gesture. <S> The motorcycle I find a very odd case of this. <S> It's 95% not me giving the gesture, but receiving it after being cut off, not seen, turned in front of, etc. <S> People are in general not interested in showing any rage and are quick to apologize when I'm on one, even if I'm not wearing the armored jacket and helmet. <S> I don't get even half this respect in vehicles or bicycles. <S> That was a side note that I've found interesting, but the point is that it's the same gesture I seem to get from many other people. <A> I have seen and used a sheepish wave and a shoulder shrug or head bow, never had someone try to beat me up after that. <A> I wave if I can but sometimes that's not possible because I'm controlling the bike. <S> I always give them a look of apology and say "sorry" even though they can't hear me. <S> I slightly exaggerate the look and the lip movements so that I can be sure that they see it. <S> And most people can read lips well enough to pick up "sorry" even across an intersection. <S> I usually get a wave back, so I know it works most of the time. <A> In Hawaii, it's common for drivers (and cyclists, I suppose) to use the shaka to communicate an apology on the road: To folks who know about it, the sign carries the same range of positive meanings as Aloha and should be taken as a friendly gesture. <S> While it doesn't specifically communicate apology, the sign is used as a relaxed greeting, which could diffuse a hostile situation. <S> As far as I know, the sign doesn't resemble any rude gestures. <S> As always, be sure to check with a local for the meaning of any hand signals used in an unfamiliar culture! <A> Short answer - there's no widely recognized hand gesture for <S> I'm sorry . <S> You could try the American Sign Language for sorry : <S> I'm not sure how likely it is that this will be understood by the other person though. <A> I have thought about this a lot. <S> What usually works for me is raising the left hand palm in and fingers up and covering my ear and lowering the head slightly. <S> a gesture of submission, the covering of the ear "please don't yell at me for my mistake". <S> Then raising palm upward and forward in a surrender mode. <S> I am sorry. <A> If they beep, you can just give a thumbs-up as if to say "yeah, that was justified". <A> Complementing @BSO rider response: here in Brazil a simple "thumbs up" sign means that you agree with the driver that's not their fault <S> and you just mean say sorry. <S> Another way is raise your hand and make a face expression like "it's my fault". <S> This works too, like this: <A> I'm not so sure about <S> "I'm sorry" , but the gesture for the related <S> "I'm sorry for you" <S> is simply to pass hundreds of cars that are stuck in bumper-to-bumper traffic. <S> If you're sorry frequently, it means you have some kind of problem that causes you to carry out actions that you didn't plan, or which have consequences that you didn't forsee. <S> Fix that problem. <S> Do things deliberately and own them. <S> Correctly predict their results and own them also. <S> Consequently, don't be sorry. <S> Then when you're not sorry, you don't require any gesture to express it: you just do in order to achieve a result, the result occurs, and you don't regret anything. <S> When you're on your bike mingling with traffic, you can't afford to be taking unintentional actions, or poorly predicting the results of intentional actions. <S> "I'm sorry" won't cut it when there are serious negative consequences. <S> What does "I'm sorry" really mean in traffic? <S> Usually this: " <S> I regret that someone else had to take an action to avert a disaster that would otherwise have been caused by what I did." <S> It's vastly more important not to have this occur than to have a well researched and rehearsed gesture for the accompanying sentiment of regret. <A> Thinking about it, and considering that non-verbal, single-handed signal is preferred, I think that: Touching your head with the fingertips, above and behind the ear; Shrugging the shoulders and; Raising the eyebrows; <S> In sort of a "oops, what have I done! <S> So sorry!" <S> attitude, might be very well interpreted/understood by drivers, and probably dissolve any aggressive behaviour (if any) on his/her part. <A> I accidentally cut someone off today. <S> He looked at me as he passed me, and I immediately and instinctively just raised my left arm, bent at the elbow, fingers straight up and together, and mouthed <S> "I'm sorry. <S> " <S> I was so surprised by my automatic response that I googled "hand gesture <S> for I'm sorry" and found this listing. <S> I wonder if anyone else has just done that automatically, not that we intentionally cut people off!
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There's no side/side or waving motion, just a hand up, fingers together, "Thanks/Sorry".
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How did bubbles form on my tire? I was riding recently and kept hearing a noise similar to a rock stuck in a tread, but I have no tread. When I got off and inspected the tire, I found these weird bubbles had formed. I have replaced the tire (the bubble doesn't telegraph through to the inner wall), and the tube appeared just fine. I can't figure out what caused this though. I'd really like to know, so if it's something I'm doing, I can keep from doing that. It was my rear tire, and the tire only has about 1200 miles on it. <Q> I suggest taking it back to the shop you got it from, as it looks like a manufacturing defect. <S> Since the bubble isn't visible on the inside <S> it's clear that the layers of cloth inside the tyre have separated, and that's not supposed to happen. <S> You should be able to get a warranty replacement. <S> Sheldon Brown has an explanation of how the tyre is made that may help you picture what's going on: http://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html <A> This happens commonly on vehicle/motorcycle tires, and for similar reasons. <S> Non-bicycle tires use woven metal 'bands' that form the structure, with rubber molded around them. <S> Bicycle tires use cloth/nylon/some other type of non-stretchy material with the rubber molded around it. <S> You can usually feel them as the lines inside the tire. <S> When bands break and/or separate, it allows air pressure to push out the now unsupported rubber around it out farther than normal. <S> You may not even notice the inner part following, because they're not really one piece, more like two pieces of bread surrounding the meat (the bands). <S> Further, they don't need to make both sections airtight, so usually just the outside is ( <S> even if you don't see holes, the rubber can be quite permeable (indeed it usually is to a small extent, even airtight ones). <S> If you're asking what causes the breaking, it could be poor manufacturing, extreme flexing, folding, extreme heat, sitting flat on the bead for a while (or getting ridden on while flat), over-inflation, or any number of things that stress one section of the tire more than the rest of the structure. <A> I can think of 4 causes for the "bubble": <S> Somehow air pressure from inside the tire has worked its way through the inner cords and pushed out the outer tread. <S> But for this to happen the rim would have to be essentially airtight, and no rim is that tight unless designed for tubeless tires. <S> Some sort of gas created from within the tire collected in the bubble. <S> One might expect this on a fairly new tire, due to some manufacturing process problem, but an older tire (more than maybe 6 months old) should have "outgassed" everything. <S> But if this were the case the bulge would go away once the tube's pressure were removed, and there would be a soft spot inside the tire that you could feel with your fingers if you pressed. <S> The defect is due to a bruise/rupture, but the bulge results from the ruptured cord "bunching up" under the tread. <S> One would expect such a defect to be less regular looking, though. <S> Additionally, the bulge would be hard when pressed, whereas the other cases would result in a bulge that could be compressed with your fingers. <A> I had a similar situation this afternoon. <S> Air temps 95+f. <S> Tire pressure 105. <S> I noticed a click sound. <S> I thought maybe my magnet was touching bike computer pickup. <S> Another rider happened to notice the bubble. <S> I began my return toward home just clicking along. <S> After about 2 miles the sound was gone. <S> I looked and could see where it had been. <S> Apparently ruptured leaving a minuscule indent on the tread (slick). <S> No evidence on the inside. <S> Returned home 20miles w/o further incident.
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The defect is actually a bruise/rupture in the cord, allowing the tube's pressure to press out the tire.
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"Clacking" noise coming from drivetrain I have a 2005 Specialized S-Works Tarmac with Dura-Ace components and Mavic Ksyrium SL wheelset. I get a "clacking" noise coming from the drivetrain area only when pedaling forward. I say "clacking" because it's not a click or creak noise. It reminds me of the noise those acrylic Clacker toys from the 70s made when they hit, but obviously not that loud. If I backpedal the noise will go away temporarily. I do notice if I backpedal, then pedal normally, the noise goes away; it will not typically return until I freewheel then pedal forward again. The noise has been around for about 2 years on this bike and I have changed the following: Cassette from 7800 to 7900 series, chain, 53T chainring and pedals from 7800 to 7900 series. The issue is still there. It happens in the small or large chainrings regardless. The "clacking" noise does not happen freewheeling at all only pedaling. It does not correspond with wheel revolutions or even crank revolutions. It's more of a loud clack immediately followed by a smaller clack happening about every 3/4 crank revolutions. Last time I took the bike in for a overhaul I told them about the noise that I thought it was coming from the bottom bracket that I wanted that rebuilt. Once I got the bike back the clacking was gone for about a week, then returned. Thanks for any help on what to look for! Mike <Q> It's possible that the chainring bolts are loose. <S> This would allow the chain rings to shift slightly when under load, which creates a clicking or clacking noise. <S> To tighten them, you'll want a 5mm allen wrench for the bolts and a large flat-head screwdriver (or a tool specifically designed for chainring nuts, like the one from Park) for the nuts. <S> The allen wrench approaches the bolts from the drive side of the bike and the screwdriver approaches from the non-drive side. <S> You don't say which edition of Dura-Ace is installed on your bike. <S> The 7900 edition uses Torx chainring bolts (in the T30 size) instead of 5mm allen bolts. <A> I had a similar problem until recently, initially thought it may be the BB, but after cleaning, greasing, and eventually replacing the problem was still there. <S> Turns out it was the freewheel hub on the wheel, and fairly quick to fix <S> , if that is your problem, open up the freewheel hub, I needed 2 5mm allen keys for this, but various wheels have different methods of opening up. <S> Don't force anything, these are easy to destroy, and expensive to replace. <S> Apply grease, I used the Park Tool one (personal preference), and close everything up again. <A> This may sound ridiculous but grease the seat post. <S> I had a similar problem on my mtb <S> solved it by greasing the seatpost, only the portion remaining inside the frame ofcourse. <S> Before using grease, things I tried include, tightening the bottom bracket and the crankset replacing pedals replacing the chain and none of them worked.
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Once you have the freewheel open, make sure that the little pins stay in place, most new hubs will have springs keeping them in place.
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Why do you think I nearly fell on this turn? I was riding my new Scott road bike yesterday and I nearly took a terrible fall. The pavement was wet and there was a curve. I was riding approximately 15 mph and I braked with the rear brake. As I applied the brake the rear tire nearly spun out from under the bike. Do you know what I did wrong? <Q> You braked too hard given the road conditions, plain and simple. <S> The road was wet, which decreases your traction. <S> You hit the brake, which uses the tire's traction on the road to slow the bike. <S> If pressed too hard, the rear wheel will lock up and skid, which can be disastrous in a corner — the rear wheel will continue to follow its outward momentum. <S> 15mph may not seem fast, but that particular corner may have been especially dangerous for any number of reasons: wet leaves are notorious for being slippery automotive oil collects on the road if it hasn't rained in awhile, or if there's poor drainage there was a dip in the road <S> the road may have been off-camber (the road slopes down toward the outside of the turn) <S> To avoid accidents in the future, the first thing you should do is properly learn to use your front brake . <S> The front wheel will not skid under reasonable cycling conditions. <S> Other than that, you'll over time develop a sixth sense of how safe the road conditions are. <S> Just pay attention to the corners and watch out for dips, debris, puddles, and the camber of the turn. <A> Have you done the usual tests on a new bike which also allow you to become accustomed to how the bike handles, or were you hoping to gain that knowledge experientially without falling? <S> My suspicion is you are still not comfortable on the bike. <S> When you get on a new bike it's always a good idea to first test the brakes before you move, then once you're moving apply the brakes gently, then more firmly. <S> Then speed up to walking pace and do an emergency stop. <S> Do this somewhere very safe, possibly even in your living room. <S> The goal is to break anything that's going to break easily, and detect problems like improperly fitted or insufficiently tightened cable fasteners. <S> Then move out to an open area and do a series of turns and accellerations of increasing enthusiasm as you gain confidence and skill on the bike. <S> You want this all to be done in a place where an equipment or technique failure will be embarrassing rather than fatal, like a car park or playground. <S> Bike mechanics generally do this for every bike they service, calling it a test ride (excluding bikes that are returned unridden, possibly unrepaired, as they're judged unsafe or unrepairable). <S> When I'm buying a bike or testing for a friend I always take these tests to the point of locking up wheels. <S> If you're not comfortable locking up your front wheel don't do that, bust <S> you definitely should be able to deal easily with a rear wheel lockup under controlled conditions. <S> Test the front brake to the point of lifting the rear wheel. <S> Again, IMO a competant should be able to deal with that situation. <S> And any bike must be able to deal with both of those situations without failing. <S> Not, however, a rear wheel slide-out leading to a highside dismount - that will generally deform the rear wheel. <A> There are many reasons as to why you may have fallen. <S> But I think the largest factor is that when using only back brake you don't have very much stopping power because the bike is accelerating backwards <S> so there is a force pushing you forward. <S> (This is like gravity pulling us down, but it feels like the ground is pushing us up.) <S> This causes you to have little traction on your back wheel, and more traction on your front wheel. <S> (traction is force x surface area.) <S> Since there is so little traction on your back wheel it is already likely to slip. <S> When going around a turn, even more so because "centrifugal force" is pushing your bike in the opposite direction of the turn. <S> All of the forces combined with the low traction from the back tire make your bike likely to slip. <S> When the road is wet you should use your front brake more than your back because of the acceleration of braking there will be more of a force pressing on your front tire and it will give you much more stopping power and you will have much more traction (the converse of what I said in the first part of the answer). <S> The problem is that if you are used to using your back brake you will want to be careful as to NOT apply the brake to quickly or you may flip over the handle bars and crack your new Scott bike. <S> Getting in the habit of using a front brake will be a good one to get into. <S> I always used to use my back brakes only until I realized that it really doesn't have much stopping power, especially on hills. <S> Now I go through front brakes nearly 3x as often as back brakes (on mtn bike and street bike). <S> But, as mgb said, you really should limit your braking while turning as much as possible, at least start braking before you start to turn your bike. <S> Unless of course it is an emergency in which case you should be ready for the worse, even ditching your bike if you need to.
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I suspect you either did not notice a slippery section of the path, or braked too sharply.
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Fast touring bike / Roadbike with touring capabilities I am looking for a bike as primary transportation in the South Bay area.My commute is 5 mi, I like to do overnight trips on weekends and usethe bike for shopping, which will involve occasional trips not longer than 30 mi. My budget is $1500, but I would not mind to spend less in order not to worrytoo much about theft and maybe even get a second bike. I went to a lot of bike shops, but they seem to be gearedmore towards racing or mtb, very few bikes even had rack mounts. My current favorite is the Novara Randonee 2012 http://www.rei.com/product/816068/novara-randonee-bike-2012 but I am not 100% sure it is the right bike for my purpose. My concerns with the Randonee are: -Main concern: Bar End Shifters. I've never had bar ends, but I have the feeling that theyare unsuitable for traffic. I have to go through a few streets with heavytraffic I don't feel too comfortable in, even without taking my hands off thebrakes. I like integrated shifters. -Minor concern: The Randonee is not overweight (29 lbs), but a bit too heavily built for mypurpose. I won't do any tours of more than a few days, most of my use will be running errands and doing tours (not races) with friends who have mostly cross or road bikes. I don't want to be the slowest. Are these proper concerns? Did I overlook anything? Does one get used to the bar ends? Other bikes I looked at: -Novara Verita, $1200: Goes in the right direction, but sitting was uncomfortablecompared to Randonee, and they weren't able to identify the problem in the shop. -Fuji Cross 3.0, $800:400318">http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1094122_-1_400318I have doubts about the canti brakes, especially when wet. -Salsa Vaya 2, $1700: BB5 disc brakes probably better than brakes on Randonee, far too expensive -Fantom Outlaw, $999: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/outlaw.htm Cheaper version of salsa, but bad idea to buy without trying it out. Anyway, these four only have double cranksets with a lowest ratio of 36:32, I am notsure this is low enough. Bikes I read about but that I didn't see in any shop: Specialized Secteur,Surly LHT, Trek, Surly Cross Check Are there other bikes I should look at that -take a rack and fenders-have reliable brakes for all weather use in traffic-preferably have integrated shifters-low enough gear <Q> The Surly Pacer is a good choice. <S> My first real bike was a one, and I used it for commuting, training rides, and a two-week tour in Europe. <S> Even though it wasn't "ideal" for training rides or touring, it worked great for me until I was able to afford more specialized bikes. <S> That said, about your individual concerns: <S> bar-end shifters are great for touring bikes <S> they are perfectly fine for traffic, you get used to them faster than you think <S> they are waaaay less prone to malfunctioning, which brifters are legendary for <S> 30lb isn't really that big a deal for a do-everything bike <S> the extra 5lb is nothing compared to the weight of the rider and touring equipment steel is probably the best choice for this type of bike regardless <S> it's easier / cheaper to upgrade the engine instead of the bike :) <A> I suggest checking out the Space Horse . <S> I have one and am very pleased with it. <S> Most recent version comes with a compact 10 cassette, is a very smooth ride, and quite comfortable. <S> I've taken it off road onto the gravel rails to trails we have around here <S> and the next day loaded it up for a 15 mile commute to work. <S> Solid as a tank. <S> Comfortable. <S> Versatile. <A> This titanium Motobecane is slightly above your budget range, but it's a very nice bike. <S> It can accommodate a rear rack, and can be outfitted for touring: <S> The same retailer offers several different models at a lower cost, including this one with a steel frame . <A> I got a Marin Four Corners for the exact same purpose as described and have been happy with the results. <S> It too is 29lbs of double butted steel, but considering the weight you shed riding on a daily commute, its not big deal. <S> To the 'Four Corners;, and beyond. <A> Steel, steel, steel. <S> Anyone who has owned a good to high end steel bike (4130 tubing or better, with Prestige being perhaps at the top of the touring food chain) and has also owned aluminum will disparage aluminum until the sun goes down. <S> There is no comparison. <S> As to bar ends, they are perfect for touring, and cantilever brakes are the best choice because of weight issues. <S> The above Motebecane looks great, but expensive.
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The Pacer doesn't come with as many rack bosses as you'll want (one advantage of the cross-check), but p-clamps did the trick for me. The bar end shifters on touring bikes are meant for durability on long hauls and can be a hassle, at first, to deal within a city commute, but easily conquered at 20 miles a day.
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Are bicycle rear racks and panniers suitable for cross-country riding? Later this summer, I intend to make a ten-day travel. It is going to be mainly road touring with one-two-tree days of sloped dirt roads or forest trails possible. I usually pack heavily, carrying a 60 litre pack, that I will probably fill up for this journey (tent, sleeping bag, beer will be restocked continuously). Both the backpack and bags have rain covers. However, my concern is that putting around 10 kg(22 lb), maybe 15kg(33 lb) directly over my rear wheel will ruin the rim at the first hole I bump. Which should I choose : the backpack or the system of rear rack mounted bags system? Related: Why do cyclists prefer messenger bags over backpacks? Gary Fisher Kaitai suffers from handlebar wobble at moderate speed with 10lbs on rear rack <Q> I'm a member of Warm Showers , and regularly host cross-country bike tourists and get to check out their gear. <S> Except for the occasional monk with orange robes and a small backpack , what bike tourists choose has been surprisingly uniform. <S> It's usefully Ortlieb panniers on front and rear racks, and sometimes a handlebar bag. <S> The details and presence of the handlebar bags vary some, but the choice and use of Ortlieb panniers has been a near constant. <S> I don't own any yet, but I suspect they are chosen because they are waterproof and durable-- two key qualities for a long distance trip! <S> Here are a couple sample photos of bike tourists I've hosted (both with Ortlieb panniers) <S> I would add: don't worry about the weight-- with a proper rack, bike tourists sometimes carry 50 to 80 pounds of gear, much of it on the rear wheel. <A> For a trip that you describe, I would actually recommend using both a rear rack system and a front rack system. <S> I have not used a front rack system, but I understand that it changes the handling of the bike. <S> Having basically four panniers, two on front and two on back, will allow you to distribute the weight around so that you are left/right balanced and neither of the tires is taking an excess. <S> Then you can redistribute to get the handling that you want. <S> The people who run The Path <S> Less Pedalled went across the United States with just such a setup before they bought Bromptons and changed everything. <S> For rear panniers, maybe one of the Topeak units that consists of a trunk and two side panniers. <S> Alternately, an Ortlieb set of panniers, leaving the rack proper for you to rope on gear that doesn't fit nicely in the bags (I'm thinking, say, a sleeping bag or hiking poles). <S> I'm not sure what to use for the front, though. <S> Your bike shop should be able to help out with that. <S> Finally, keep your tire pressure within spec and do be careful on the forest trails. <S> If you are familiar with off-road biking, understand that your agility is going to be far less than you are accustomed to. <S> Good luck! <S> Maybe also start a weblog and post your progress frequently. <S> ^__^ <A> Savanni makes a good point, the answer depends on your weight distribution. <S> Something else that will effect it is your tires. <S> Another point. <S> You can get seat post racks (second link) made popular by offroad tourers riding dual suspension bikes which can't accommodate the traditional back rack. <S> Another option is depending on your bike geometry (traditional touring diamond I guess?) <S> you can get a pannier for this space, this is very common with long distance audaxers wanting to stay ultralight on 200-1200km rides: http://i.stack.imgur.com/ulCoK.jpg These used to be odd home made contraptions but are quite common now. <S> They have two advantages, they don't need a metal pannier rack to clip onto so are a lighter solution, and are attached with straps which aren't affected by all the bumps in riding surface that a pannier rack would be (not to mention your pannier clips). <S> I've toured with 15 kg (30 lbs?) on the back rack and 25 kg <S> + (50 lbs?) spread across front and back off road on 35mm tires: <S> http://i.stack.imgur.com/3uafV.jpg using normal racks and had no problem <S> what so ever. <S> Just use your brain and don't go speeding along at 30+ km/h on bumpy sections.
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The fatter tires you have the more they will absorb (bumps and the like), and prevent these bumps vibrating up to your pannier rack. I'll agree with all of the other comments in that a backpack will both put a lot of painful strain on your back and throw off your balance.
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How to tell what length of chain to get? I am replacing the chain on my road bike soon. How do I know how many links to get? Does it have to exactly 114 or 116. Or is it not a big deal? I ordered a 116 link chain. Will I need to shorten it? Thank you. <Q> If your old chain was 114 links (assuming it was the right size to begin with) <S> then it's a good idea to take a couple of links out of it. <S> It'll still work with two extra links but shifting may not be optimal and the chain will fall off more easily. <S> Keep in mind that one chain link is composed of an inner and outer link, so a link is actually two pieces with a hinge in the center. <S> This means that to remove two links, you'll actually remove four pieces of chain with three hinge points. <S> If the old chain was 116 links and you're trying to replace it with a 114 link chain, you'll run into problems. <S> A chain that is too short can jam when shifting and puts puts too much strain on your rear derailleur. <S> Make sure that the chain is long enough for one full link (again, inner and outer) to overlap <S> and you'll probably be spot on. <S> You can read more about it here: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain <A> A standard replacement chain is always several inches longer than needed for a standard non-recumbent, non-tandem bike. <S> What I generally do is hang both from a wire and match up the links (the old chain will be "stretched", so you can't simply match by length). <S> Then I "break" the new chain at the location (number of links) that matches the old. <S> Skilled mechanics can simply stretch the chain around the big rings front and rear, put their finger on the link that meets the other end, and break it there, but I'd rather be sure that my new chain matches the old exactly (if the old performed well). <A> As always, Sheldon knows best .
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To determine the correct length, wrap your chain around largest chain ring in the front and the largest rear sprocket, without running it through the derailleurs.
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Should I use a master link? I just ordered a new KMC X10SL Ti 10 Speed chain for my bike. And I am wondering if I should use a master link or not. In the past I have had much trouble with them. I used to use them on my 9 speed mountain bike, and the master link would fall of often. It turned out that how the suspension compressed it pushed the chain backwards and the master link would pop out. Now I'm changing the chain on my road bike for the first time. It's 10 speed. And it doesn't have any suspension. Should I use a master link, or not? My bike is a Scott CR1, it's their entry line carbon bike. I ride it about 150mi/week. A am concerned that using a master link on a chain like the one I ordered will be a problem because it may wear faster then the rest of the chain. Is this true? Or am I just paranoid? <Q> The ones I've seen shouldn't wear any faster than the rest of the chain because the wear surfaces are the same <S> - what's different are the side plates (and the notch around the end of the pin). <S> If you look closely at how the powerlink is built it has the same elements as the rest of the chain, they're just held in place differently. <S> The only time I've had problems with them was the old 8 speed ones when I used to regularly reopen them <S> and they've become steadily easier to open until they were useless. <S> I found one report of faster wear here and a discussion here <S> where Sheldon Brown actually measured things and concluded it wouldn't be a problem. <S> The latter also features some good advice: <S> Don't worry about it. <S> Just enjoy riding your bike. <S> Too many people get caught up in the most minute of details and <S> for some reason I tend to think they spend more time thinking about what's wrong (or what could go wrong) with their bike than they do enjoying it. <A> I tried a master link, but for all that it was supposed to be tool-less, I couldn't lock it closed without pliars, and later I couldn't take it appart without tools. <S> It may have been <S> I didn't know what I was doing, but since then I just use the chain tool. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Most master links I have used are designed to fit into the the "barrels" of the smaller links and never actually touch the sprockets, in that sense, there shouldn't be much wear on them. <S> The master link is designed to be removed <S> and so it has more moving parts than the other links and this makes it SLIGHTLY weaker. <S> Unless you are cranking the snot of of your chain like a racer in a gate or straight up abusing it like a BMX street rider, you shouldn't have problems with them. <S> I have run into problems with my master links and <S> so I have almost always just used a chain breaker to bolt the chain on, but I am in the last category, I beat the snot out of my bikes, so I need the extra strength. <S> Basically it comes to this: You shouldn't have a problem with a master link, but if it gives you peace of mind, loop-bolt the chain!! <A> Most manufacturers now recommend you use their provided chain joining method rather than the classic pushing the pin out partially to remove links and pushing it back. <S> This is because with tighter tolerances, partially pushing a pin out and re-pushing in it in may weaken the chain or not provide a solid enough closing of the chain. <S> This can lead to the chain breaking at the re-pushed pin area (so the questions of wear and what not are secondary; you want the chain to stay on, so you should use the master link/special rivet/whatever manufacturer suggests). <S> The chain joining method is generally in the form of a master link or a special rivet. <S> SRAM, KMC and others provide master links with new chains and it's highly recommended you use them. <S> Some of them are one-time use (SRAM Powerlock; used for >=10 speed) while others are multi-use (SRAM Powerlink; used for <=9 speed, KMC Missinglink, etc.). <S> Generally, manufacturers state you should only use their link with their chain, but many people mix and match depending on the situation (at their own risk, obviously; a lot of people, for example, use a SRAM Powerlink 8 speed with a KMC or Shimano chain which is 7-9 speed, even though it is against manufacturer recommendations). <S> Shimano uses a special rivet that you push in and break the head off. <S> Campagnolo has a more difficult special rivet which you have to peen with a special tool on some chains, or some other systems of the sort. <S> I highly recommend using a master link (or whatever chain closing method the chain manufacturer recommends/provides). <S> I would definitely not recommend trying the push pin out partially and pushing it back on a >8 speed chain. <S> If you're buying a chain with a master link and having trouble using it, you can try a tool like Park Tool MLP-1.2 to help install/remove them. <A> I was thinking about this today. <S> I have a similar KMC chain and own the Park Tool Master Link pliers . <S> Following chain removal for maintenance, the KMC master link began to cause an audible click every time it engaged the cassette. <S> The noise grew over the course of several weeks.
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For <=8 speed chains, you can probably get away with the pushing pin out and pushing back if you're careful, but even these chains generally come with master links/rivets which are easier to get right and install (so I would recommend using the master link or rivet if provided). I'd just as well go without the link from now on. I think the utility of a master link has diminished over time as tolerances grew tighter and cassettes narrower...
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How do I know if I can replace the 27 inch wheels with 700c wheels on my bike? I recently purchased an 80's Japanese bike off craigslist called "Jupiter King." It has 27 inch tires but I want to switch to 700c for greater wheel/tire selection. I specifically want some nice yellow wheels with yellow rim. Help? I am quite a noob with bikes. Thanks for any help/advice. <Q> Your brakes will have to reach farther because a 700c wheel is a smidge smaller than a 27 inch wheel. <S> If it all lines up, great. <S> Purchase whatever 700c wheelset strikes your fancy. <S> If not, you may be able to purchase brakes with a longer reach. <S> Some older frames still won't work with 700c wheels even with the longest brakes available. <S> If that's the case for your frame, you're stuck with 27's. <S> Personally, if it were me and I couldn't get it to work with the existing brakes, I'd stick with 27 inch wheels. <S> If you start having to swap brakes out, it starts to get iffy and frankly <S> , I think it's more hassle than it's worth. <S> It's a lot easier (and maybe cheaper) to just start hunting for a frame that already has 700s on it. <A> You will probably need to drop your brake calipers. <S> I did this on my 1981 Raleigh. <S> Despite fitting long-reach Tektro R559 calipers, the back wheel looked like this: There might have been another millimetre by fiddling, but not the difference I needed. <S> Please ignore the dodgy-looking <S> cracked tyre sidewalls... <S> they where only for testing. <S> Here's the drop-plate I made from 6mm of scrap aluminium bar. <S> Fitting that with lots of copper grease and some solid bolts gives this: Curiously, the same brake on the front reached the wheel rim perfectly without any crafting. <S> I should have lowered it even more, but this way there's clearance for a mudguard someday. <A> The difference between 700C and 27" is pretty small. <S> The rims are 622mm and 630mm <S> so the actual change in brake shoe position is 4mm (less than 1/4"). <S> Look at your brakes and decide whether they will suit. <S> You may be able to change the brakes to ones with longer arms (assuming caliper types). <S> Another issue may be the rear hub as these have got wider over the years. <S> If it's only a couple of mm you can probably spring the rear forks enough to fit. <S> If it's more than that I would advise you to find a frame builder who can reset the forks.
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You may or may not be able to make that conversion with your existing brake/frame combination. I'd recommend borrowing a 700c wheelset from someone to see if you can line it all up. Depending on your setup, that may be possible.
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Which tube size to prefer if several options apply? I have 40-622 (a.k.a. 28x1.5") tires, and Schwalbe offers two different sizes of tubes - their models "17" and "19" - as applicable for that tire size. Ok, either one would surely fit well. But apart from weight difference (150 vs. 220 grams), is there any reason to prefer one over another? Is it better to have as small & light tube as possible? Or perhaps a bit larger and heavier one would be more durable, as it wouldn't be stretched as much? Err on which side? <Q> Basically, the tube box will list the sizes it covers. <S> Make sure your size is within those parameters (and ideally not "on the edge"). <S> Beyond that you'd generally pick the lighter tube for road and the heavier one for off-road. <S> And a heavier tube will generally provide a slight improvement in puncture resistance. <S> Avoid very light tubes unless you're a racer, as they will often "leak down" much faster than heavier tubes, requiring you to inflate your tires twice daily in some cases. <S> (It would be nice if manufacturers rated their tubes based on leakage.) <A> You want to get the tube to match the tire as close as possible. <S> Nowadays they make the tubes smaller and allow them to stretch out, and for the most part it isnt a problem, but this is to save the company money and not because it doesn't matter. <S> As for which tube to use, I don't know the conversion, if the 19" is larger than the tire go with the 17". <S> But I would say try find one that is closer to the actual tire size. <A> Find the tube that will fit without any folding. <S> I would avoid a tyre that needs to stretch too much. <S> It can exopose manufacturing differences and makes patching harder. <A> Personally, I use the largest tube that will fit my bike. <S> That makes me feel better because the rubber of the tube is not stretching out as much as it might be for a smaller tube. <S> I honestly don't have any "prof" <S> but I feel like it helps prevent flats. <S> I've gone 1000 miles since my last flat. <S> Mostly because of the tires I have, <S> but I think that using the largest working tubes does help prevent things like pinch flats.
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Anyway, I would suggest a slightly smaller tube over a slightly larger tube (in comparison to the tire) because there are more problems with pinching in a larger tube than stretching/herniating with the smaller tubes.
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How to mount posters, bills or placards on a bicycle We want to do a ride through our city to show the presence of cycling and want that people do not only see bikes, but also a message. We thought of using some posters that we mount on our bikes, but we are not sure how to do this. We thought about glueing the posters on card board and maybe even reinforcing the card board with wood. We are thinking about A3 sized posters, or even larger. If there was somebody with experience on how to build posters so one can mount them easily on a bicycle, tips would be appreciated. Other tips on how to convey a message as a group on bicycles would also be nice! I wanted to keep the problem pretty open, so it can be of use to other people facing a similar problem, but since they have been requested: Specifics are as follows: We want to make a bike ride in suits to show that cycling is possible in any attire, and I opted in to find a solution how to make posters so people see our message and do not just wonder about a group of cyclists in suits. We might need a big poster in front and in the back, and the individual cyclist should also be able to mount a message on their bikes easily (want to make around 5 smaller posters). There should be some trailers available. It would be nice if the posters are reuseable, maybe even for different purposes, but the ride I want to use them for will only last around 2 to 3 hours. Budget is pretty tight, I would guess around 50 $. <Q> Like this <S> They're somewhat inclined to fall over in the wind <S> so you have to be a little cautious, but the group who were using them lent them out to a range of people without any problems (other than getting the trailers back afterwards). <S> You can attach the same A frames to a loadbike if you have one. <S> Up to about A3 you can strap to your back, ideally to a backpack, or to the sides of a rear rack. <S> I've either laminated posters or printed on coreflute, then stapled them to a wooden frame and cable tied them to the bike. <S> The problem is that you have to print large for people to be able to read it, and that means "BIKES GOOD" rather than a paragraph. <S> The graphic below I stole from a guy in Sydney because it's IMO good - simple, easy to grasp and direct. <S> You could leave the "critical mass" off if you wanted to, obviously. <S> If you want to attach slogans to cyclists <S> it's easier to do it on a T shirt. <S> Critical Mass have a huge range of advocacy shirt designs and places like the Chicago Flyer Exchange have a range of artwork ready for you to use. <S> People will generally pay you for the shirts, so you can use them to fundraise a little as well <S> (cost of a printed shirt is usually a lot less than people expect, so just rounding up to the nearest convenient price usually results in a cheap shirt and a small surplus). <A> I would think the best would be to attach to a rear rack. <S> The posters could stick up above the top of the rack, occupying maybe 3 vertical feet. <S> Width would be limited by heel clearance issues -- probably about 18 inches. <S> You could also put small posters on the front wheel, mounted to a front rack. <S> And there can be a poster in the triangle between the tubes. <S> This would be easiest to mount -- just secure with nylon cable ties around the tubes. <S> Depending on the durability desired, foam-core posterboard would be a good starting point. <S> From there I'd go to "Masonite" (tempered hardboard) if you can find it, for more durability. <A> I have seen quite a few bikes with a piece of plastic in the front triangle attached with wire or zip-ties. <S> It was a thicker kind of plastic, kind of like they make binders out of. <S> I couldn't find a picture of one <S> so I MSPainted what it might look like: <A> You can have your message printed on eithera) <S> a tarp like material, put eyelets on the edges and use cable ties to attach it to your frameb) a plastic laminate billboard with a hollow corelike this http://www.pp-sheet.com/PP-Billboard-c65.html
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Another idea would be to carry a flag on a pole attached to the bike. The most practical approach we found for larger posters was trailers.
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Solutions for pedals screwed in the wrong sides? I have a Focale44 fixie with a single speed on the other side of the gear (this is called a flip-flop I think?) and I LOVE it so far! I've ridden it for about six months and haven't had to fix anything big on it yet. The only problem is that I must have screwed the pedals in the wrong sides and now I can't get them back out. But, in trying to fix this, I'm really hoping not to have to buy a whole new crankset. Any recommendations on this one? Here is the crankset... Focale 44 Crankset Can I still ride it? I can't really afford to replace anything for a few weeks and I might die if I don't get to ride during that time! Can I just replace the arms? If not, what cranks can you recommend? I really can't drop any more than about $100 on this. <Q> I doubt that you actually managed to screw your pedals into the wrong sides. <S> If it can even be done, the amount of force required to do so would have easily alerted you that you were doing something dreadfully wrong. <S> Not to mention the aluminum shavings that would have been all over the place. <S> Pedals can get pretty snug just through the action of peddling the bike and it may take quite a bit of force to get the unscrewing action started. <S> Also remember that crank arms and pedals are threaded so that the action of pedalling the bike does not cause the pedal to loosen and fall off. <S> This means that on one side of the bike, the right/chain side, the pedal is threaded as a regular clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen bolt. <S> The left-hand crank is threaded in the opposite direction. <S> Don't be afraid to apply a good amount of force (in the right direction) to loosen the pedals. <S> If they are threaded correctly, it would be quite difficult to ruin them by applying too much force. <S> If they actually are threaded incorrectly, the crank arms are ruined anyway, so you're not going to make things worse. <A> I am not too familiar with fixies, but I do ride a BMX with a Left-Side Drive. <S> When I first flipped my cranks to the left I stripped out my pedals. <S> This had nothing to do with cross threading, but rather because the pedals on the right are right hand threads, and the left are left hand threads FOR A REASON! <S> The solution to MY problem was to by a more modern crankset that had a sprocket bolt hole on the left arm and leave the left/right arms on the correct sides. <S> Unless I had your bike in front of me I wouldn't be able to tell, but is your sprocket on the left or right side of the bike? <S> Looking at the link you provided it looks like your sprocket is integrated into the cranks so flipping it to the left would mess up the left/right feng shui! <A> Another possibility is that the pedal threads were different from the crank threads - e.g., one English and one French. <S> Not very likely these days, but perhaps more likely than that someone could have somehow managed to force the alternate-threaded pedal into the crank.
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If you simply flip the cranks around you are cranking with the threads (unscrewing), rather than against them (tightening), and the pedals will twist out of the cranks.
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Should I listen to music when I bike? Possible Duplicate: Is listening to music dangerous while cycling? Is it bad to listen to earphones while commuting? I have a lot of people tell me I shouldn't, but I find when I'm biking without them I completely zone out other audio and I don't even notice other cars. Is it really that bad to be listening to music while biking? Am I putting myself at risk? Thank you. <Q> But in traffic, or on a narrow bike path where you'll need to hear the cyclist behind you call out "On your left", I'd strongly advise against it. <A> Every opinion differs. <S> Check local law and then decide for yourself. <S> I listen to music and audiobooks during my commute, but not on rides with others (I'd rather chat with them during the flats). <S> I do pay attention to my surroundings and if the traffic is sketchy <S> I will pop one (or both) buds. <A> Car-locating via the auditory system is a pretty much subconscious activity, but it exists nevertheless, and requires the audio channel to be free from blocking music. <S> Other option would be to listen to music at a lower level, or with only one earbud inserted, but this tends to give a poor musical experience, since wind on the earbud and the lower perceived sound level from a single ear makes necessary to rise the volume too much, or otherwise the music gets obscured by noise (and roads are naturally noisy). <S> I'd strongly discourage earphone usage while riding a bike. <S> A better option would be to use some handlebar-mounted speaker system that play radio or mp3. <S> Hope this helps.
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If you're riding in situations where you do not need to be aware of automobile sounds (quiet side streets, broad bike paths, etc) then it's probably OK. It depends on where you're riding.
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How bad is this broken brake cable strand? I just bought a new bicycle. While I was fiddling with things (removing tags, mounting a light, etc.) I noticed that the boot on the rear brake cable was loose. When trying to reseat it, I found that one of the strands of the brake cable was broken, and poking through the boot. Furthermore, the cable is un-twisted just before the bolt that clamps it to the right side of the brake. These seem like very bad things to me which I should immediately get fixed (and complain about). Am I correct? Is the bike unsafe to ride? <Q> This might be a sign that whoever put this bike together or inspected it for sale doesn't have a very thorough shop ethic. <S> If they were careless enough to install a brake cable incorrectly, there may be other - more serious - oversights which can add up rather unpredictably. <S> Not totally unsafe, but not ideal for a new bike. <S> In any case, brake cables are cheap and should be replaced at regular intervals. <A> That looks to me like an overtightened bolt. <S> See how the cable has spread out under the bolt? <S> That means more strands have probably been damaged. <S> The problem is not that one strand has broken, but that more strands will break in short order. <S> So yes, do something about it soon. <S> If you're lucky you'll be able to wind the barrel adjuster on the brake lever in and use the same cable, as anyone lazy enough to leave a cable like that on the bike might well be lazy enough to not wind the adjuster in. <S> But I wouldn't bet on it, and either way it's safer to bin the cable and put a new one on, since you won't have much cable left after the fastening bolt which is not ideal (there's a short, sharp end that's hard to get an end cap on and the cap will be poking out at an annoying angle, or without the cap <S> there's lots of sharp ends on the exposed strands). <S> This also gives you a change to see what the shop you bought from is like with warranty service issues. <A> There's nothing structurally wrong, but whoever put the bike together (likely at the bike shop) was a little sloppy. <S> The bike is perfectly safe to ride, and the durability of the cable is not seriously impacted. <S> You'd need to have about half the strands in the cable broken before its integrity was at any risk. <S> It's normal for the cable to spread out like that when compressed.
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I wouldn't say that a single broken strand on a new brake cable would render the bike "totally unsafe to ride," but if it is an option you should bring it back to the shop and have them replace it. And, contrary to what Kohi said, the bolt is not overtightened.
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Are anti-pollution masks effective? In Toronto when the temperature goes above 30 degrees Celcius (90 degrees Farenheit), for a few days and without wind, there is smog. I find the smog irritates and makes it difficult to breathe in through my nose. Worse, if I breathe in though my mouth instead of my nose then it hurts my bronchial tubes. A related question is, Is pollution a problem in urban cycling? - which says that it is a problem, but doesn't ask whether a mask or other anti-pollution measure is effective. Might a mask help me for this situation, i.e. breathing on the hottest days? Are they effective and are they usable? If so what type or brands or models should I look for? <Q> I get this question once in a while (working in Danish Cyclist Federation). <S> It seems to be based on the idea that commuting by bike will expose you to more pollution than commuting by car. <S> I have seen no research that proves this. <S> However, I have seen research indicating that the opposite might be true. <S> Some was in danish, but here's some in english and french (links to pdf's at the end of this article): <S> http://www.pollution-china.com/Blog/More-exposed-to-pollution-in-a-car.html <S> You should also consider the possible danger of wearing a mask while being physically active. <S> There has been little research in this field that I'm aware of but there could be a risk of creating negative pressure by obstructing the airway which has been known in some cases to produce pulmonary edema. <S> We (again Danish Cyclist Federation) sent some masks to some danish specialists who concluded that the risk was very small, but since pulmonary edema is a very serious thing, I still want to lead your attention to this. <S> Maybe you can find some research (I would be interested to hear about it). <S> Also keep in mind that if the research on "in-car pollution" vs "on-bike pollution" cited above is true it is much more important for car drivers to consider wearing a mask than it is for bicycle commuters. <S> On top of this comes all the additional beneficial factors that bike commuting produces. <S> Happy cycling. <A> To answer this question (which is different from asking "Which mask?") you have to define what "pollution" means and then examine the available masks to see if they do anything to reduce it. <S> Just offhand, I believe that "pollution", in an urban traffic setting, consists of carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide (and various other sulfur compounds), nitric/nitrous oxide (and various other nitrogen compounds), and soot (which contains a significant amount of unburned hydrocarbons). <S> (Lead used to be a significant component of exhaust but is no longer, with unleaded gasoline.) <S> Of these, only the soot is really "visible", while the sulfur and nitrogen compounds can contribute to "yellow haze". <S> A simple filter mask will remove only the soot (if that). <S> You need a mask containing at least a reasonable layer of activated charcoal ( <S> ie, a canister) to remove much of the others. <S> The masks I see advertised just have a thin layer of "activated charcoal cloth" or some such, not enough to make a noticeable difference. <S> They do test for particulate filtering, but that's of minimal value, and, besides, you can buy (much) cheaper particulate filters if you skip the "pollution" moniker. <A> I know of at least one peer-reviewed article which shows that wearing a (proper) filtering facemask does have noticeable effects on one's vital signs compared to when not wearing a facemask . <S> However, some people still say that they make very little difference in terms of long-term health effects . <S> Moreover, the actual quality of the "filtering" of masks varies wildly — Each has different tests done on it by different companies... and even on different parts of the mask: Some certify the filters themselves but don't have a certification for how much air goes through the filters as opposed to past the sides of the mask (and is therefore unfiltered). <S> Finally, although it is merely a personal anecdote, for about a year I commuted on a heavily-trafficked route and would have a runny nose and a scratchy throat when I arrived at my destination. <S> I then ordered a mask from totobobo and saw that the filters were indeed getting visibly dirty over little time , so something must be happening. <S> I also noticed less nose-running and throat stratchiness — but this could just as easily have been a placebo effect, a random change in average pollution levels or a number of other confounding variables. <S> Whether the amount it is reduced by is enough to make a significant health difference, I can't say. <S> However, when riding on especially heavily-trafficked roads for a longer period of time (either on a pushbike or a motorbike), I do still get out the mask, 'cuz <S> I'm paranoid like that.
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So, I'd tentatively say that yes, a good facemask can be (somewhat) effective at reducing the amount of particulates and other pollution a cyclist inhales while travelling through heavily-polluted areas. I was unable to find any evidence of rigorous testing of these masks anywhere -- by the manufacturers or independent bodies.
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Difference between "Track Frame set" and a "TimeTrial/Triathalon frame set" I am going to make a custom fixie bike (possibly with a front brake) that I will use to race on tracks and even commute with. I have been looking at a Planet X frame, and they seem to have very high quality frames for decent prices. But I am not sure if I should get the track frame or the time trial frame . What are the differences between these style of frames? The time trial frame is $150 more than the track frame, is it actually that much better? I am going to put time trial handlebars on the bike. I also plan to use a belt instead of a chain to cut down on weight and maintenance. <Q> You seem like you want three different bikes all smashed up into one, and the result is not going to be good. <S> First, the time trial frame is not intended to be a track frame. <S> If you're going to race at the track, use a frame and components that are designed for the track. <S> For starters, the time trial frame will have a lower bottom bracket, dramatically increasing your likelihood of a pedal strike, which can be disastrous. <S> Second, bikes at the velodrome are not allowed to have brakes. <S> Period. <S> You will also likely not even be able to mount brakes on the Planet X Track frame. <S> Third, a belt drive won't really improve the reliability of a track bike. <S> Track bikes use significantly thicker chains due to not having to fit between tightly-packed cogs in a rear cassette. <S> Having raced a few years at velodromes, I have yet to see anyone snap a chain. <S> Fourth, you probably won't even be able to install a belt drive. <S> Fifth, aero bars are explicitly disallowed from any mass-start events at the velodrome. <S> Unless you only plan on riding pursuits, you will need standard drop handlebars. <S> My advice? <S> Save the creativity for your second bike. <S> The fact that you have to ask this question tells me it's probably your first build, and you're very likely to end up with a frankenbike that's not actually what you were hoping, not race legal, and likely not even possible to build given the requirements / parts you've named. <A> Two very different animals. <S> The TT frame is built up with road components, the brake handles and shifters are a bit different but the front/rear derailleurs, crank, etc are all regular road components. <S> there are no pictures or specs on the fork. <S> Belt vs Chain : you need a custom frame for this (or the ability to customize the frame) as belts don't break like chains do. <S> In frames made for belts, there is usually a piece that unscrews to reveal a gap in the wheel stays. <S> On some CrMo or Aluminum frames you could probably do the customization, but I'd be hesitant to try this on a carbon frame. <A> For your purposes, the biggest difference is the rear dropout (where the rear axle connects). <S> The track bike will be much easier to set up as a fixie. <S> I suspect the pricing difference has to do with features like bottle bosses, attachment point for derailer, cable routing stuff, etc, not from the TT frame being "better" in any other way. <S> The TT frame has a vertical dropout, designed for a bike with a rear derailer. <S> The track frame has a rear-facing horizontal dropout. <S> If you want to set the bike up as a fixie, you need some way to tension the chain. <S> With a horizontal dropout chain-tensioning is relatively straightforward. <S> With a vertical dropout, you'll have to use a chain tensioner or something else to take up the chain slack. <S> The geometries are different. <S> The TT has a top tube about 1cm shorter in the same frame sizes. <S> They have different angles which affects handling. <S> Both frames are better for what they're made for. <S> Unless they're hiding something pretty well, you won't be able to put a belt onto either bike. <S> A belt requires that there be a reconnectable split in the rear triangle on the drive side of the bike (I've seen it in the dropout and in the seat stay, but it could be in the chain stay, too). <S> If you're racing, you may want to reconsider the belt drive idea, anyways. <S> I've heard belt drives tend to have a subtle "squishiness" to them (from the material coating the carbon compressing) <S> that's annoying when you're trying to push hard.
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The TT frame is better as a geared bike with TT bars, the track frame is better as a fixed-gear bike with drop bars. Basically, the TT is a better geometry for TT-style bars. Belts can't be disconnected/reconnected like chains can, so you will have no way to route the belt through the frame to mount it around the chainring and cog. The track frame is a single speed frame and many do not have holes to mount brakes...for Planet X you'll have to ask if the fork does or does not have them...
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What is the trick to riding on sand? I have been trying to ride on some trials that have very soft sand and especially agitated by ATVs. When I hit a soft patch my front tire pulls in one direction and I freak out a little. I cannot seem to plow through it and ultimately just end up moving slower and slower, which than leads to a full stop. Is there some trick or style to riding on these trails? <Q> Yes there is one main trick, and some regular skills. <S> The trick is: if you LOWER THE TIRE PRESSURE, any tire will float over sand like magic. <S> It should not be so underinflated as to allow easy pinch flats, but the lower the pressure, the more marked the floating effect. <S> There are just two limitations: <S> If the tire is skinny (low volume) it might not be possible to have a pressure level that allows flotation AND safe riding over rough terrain on other trail sections; <S> It's not possible to adjust tire pressure "on the fly" ;o) <S> But if you know you're having a long stretch of soft terrain, it's possible to have a good trade-off. <S> Anyway, huge tires (2.3 +) are perfect for that <S> (watch this Surly Pugsley video). <S> Also, knobby doesn't help that much, sometimes slicks are better; they cause less shearing of the sand and rob you of less kinetic energy. <S> Now the skills are mostly help maintain speed and direction. <S> Speed: not so fast as to suddenly throw you over the bars in case of loss of control, not so slow that your rear wheel loses traction in order to maintain or recover speed. <S> Direction: plan ahead the smoothest possible trajectory, and point your front wheel firmly along that trajectory. <S> Avoid wobbling on the pedals, major gear changes, and specially avoid sharp turns, because there is a critical steering angle above which the front tire skids sideways and the bike becomes unstable, making it almost impossible to regain control in some cases (of course the more skill one has, the more one can recover from). <S> Hope that helps and... PRACTICE! <S> Few things can be more fun than that! <A> I have personally ridden and raced on many sandy courses and trails (e.g. Moab) and the best advice is to shift your weight back, relax and think about guiding rather than steering the bike. <S> You will never be able to ride in a perfectly straight line, so get over it or avoid sand. <S> Rather you need to let the bike move and shift around under you. <S> You will need to stay loose and relaxed while making sure to have a firm grip. <S> You can't force the bike or it will skid out. <S> Rather your job is to look ahead and guide the bike in the general direction you want to go. <S> You also need to avoid sudden jarring movements. <S> If you have ridden in dry snow, the feeling is quite similar. <S> I know some answers said avoid excessive speed (which is good advice for riders new to sand) <S> but I will say it is also possible to scream along on sand. <S> I have hit deep and long sandy sections at full speed before (e.g. 50km/hr) and been fine. <S> Sure the bike moved around a bit, but as long as I don't panic (and tighten up), kept my weight back and guided the bike I was fine. <S> If you are riding uphill or on the flats try to keep steady power on the pedals as you have less traction to work with. <S> Some find a faster or slower pedal cadence easier - try both and take your pick. <S> Also make sure to conserve momentum, if you slow down to much you won't be going anywhere. <S> Finally, don't get discouraged, riding on sand is a learned skill and always work to Lastly <S> , there are also technical aspects (e.g. tire pressure) that have already been covered (heltonbiker) <A> I have plenty of experiance in insanely soft sand. <S> Before you leave : 29er, wide tyres, low pressure. <S> BUT Low preasure costs when you get back onto hard stuff, as do insanely wide tyres. <S> I set the bike up to go well on the hard stuff, and pay the price on the soft sections. <S> On the track : Riding style is Weight Back, Very high cadence, great balance and steer with weight shifts rather than handlebar movement. <S> It VERY quickly becomes faster, easier and more efficent to dismount and run/carry bike. <S> The only reason to ride soft sand to prove you can and get fit fast. <S> If the tracks are mostly soft sand (and you are like me - out to have fun), find better tracks, as it's not much fun after the novelty wears off. <S> One big advantage <S> , it's a soft landing when it all goes wrong <A> <A> Fatter tires and stand up. <S> If you stay seated, the front tire will not be able to carry its weight and basically float, making it really hard to control.
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Riding on sand is pretty easy once you get the hang of it, keep yourself heavy on the front of the bike through technical dh sections and over the back on a low gear on climbs, when riding on sand around corners (especially deep sandy sections) avoid leaning into the corners too much and don't be afraid to counter steer with the bars, just don't do it too quick or you will be jerked off, try not to ride the brakes too much especially when going around corners or you could easily get bogged, stay loose and ride the smoothest, straightest line. Growing up on the beach in Hawaii, I have had my fair share of riding in sand and found that the wet sand that the ocean just saturated is 30 times easier to ride on than dry sand.
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Would the seating position of a road bike cause issues with prescription glasses I currently use a mountain bike to commute to work but I am keen to switch to a bike more suited to commuting. I have been looking at road and cyclecross bikes but I am concerned the more horizontal seating position of these sorts of bikes would cause issue with my glasses; specifically, I would end up peering over the top of my lenses rather than through them. Is this a common problem? Do I need to worry? <Q> Yes, in most cases normal prescription glasses sit too low on the nose for the purpose of shielding the eyes in road bike position. <S> And as the speed increases, the need for effective eye protection grows, too. <S> Consider either: Getting contact lenses, and then you can wear bike specific glasses Getting bike glasses with prescription lens inserts. <S> In my experience, they are somewhat awkward to handle and not all optometrists will undertake fitting the lenses to what they perceive as nonstandard frames. <A> Ordinary prescription glasses are sufficient but suboptimal. <S> I wear prescription glasses and have not yet budgeted for cycling glasses, but I have not had any major problems. <S> Cycling glasses would make the biggest difference when you are riding above 20 mph. <S> If you normally ride slower than this, or if you don't have the budget, then you can wait until later to get cycling glasses or goggles. <S> EDIT: <S> Several months ago, I finally switched to contact lenses, and they have made a huge difference. <S> In particular, the wide field of view afforded by contacts with cycling glasses is much better than what I might hope for in all but the most expensive prescription cycling glasses. <S> I believe that switching to contacts was much easier (and much cheaper) than trying to find prescription cycling goggles with a wide field of view. <S> I still think it's better to ride than to wait for the perfect solution, but getting contacts and a decent pair of cycling glasses was surprisingly easy. <S> I switched to contacts primarily because of cycling, and I'm glad I made the change. <A> Eyeglasses, particularly those with relatively "low profile" lenses, will cause problems in an extreme aero crouch position. <S> So it depends on the specifics of your glasses, the bike, and your usual riding position. <S> I'm extremely nearsighted and wear glasses that are about midway on the round/low-profile axis. <S> I ride a touring bike (ie, a road frame) with a relatively high drop bar. <S> On the hoods I have little trouble with my glasses. <S> On the drops (which I rarely use) I have to tilt my head up a fair amount to see through the lenses, but can when needed. <S> (I can generally see adequately to steer when peeking over the tops of my glasses.) <S> My bigger problem is seeing through the glasses AND <S> my helmet mirror at the same time. <S> Requires careful positioning of my mirror and some twisting of the head to see behind adequately while on the hoods, and it's a lost cause while on the drops. <S> I find that using a "Croakie" eyeglass strap helps a lot by keeping my glasses from sliding down my nose. <A> I've never heard of this being a problem for anyone... <S> but I admittedly stick to the more upright-seated end of the bicycle continuum. <S> I suggest you try before you buy, of course, but you may also wish to look for a bike with a longer stem, so that if you find you have this trouble, you can raise your handlebars. <S> Cyclocross bikes should actually be a bit more forgiving of an upright stance than straight-up roadbikes.
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Although I agree that the best answer is to get bike glasses with prescription lenses or contact lenses, waiting to get optimal eyewear is no reason to avoid using a road bike.
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Handlebars for an upright seated position After injuring my neck, shoulder and arm on a fall from my bike I need the type of handlebar that you see more commonly on a cruiser bike. ie that is one that gives you anupright sitting position. My bikes are a Merida 100d and a Specialized Ariel. Does anyone know of a handlebar the can fit these bikes.Erin <Q> You can likely find bars the will fit, but keep in mind that you still want the bike to function which means moving over your shifters and brake levers. <S> While you could probably do this as a DIY project, I'd really recommend going to a bike shop and at least getting some advice first. <S> The can help you select a bar that is the right diameter to fit with your current stem and talk you through issues like <S> re-cabling (longer bars probably mean longer cables) and where/how to mount shifters and brake levers. <S> You might end up wanting to change brake levers to a different type depending on bars. <S> Don't forget the you still need to be able to get on and handle the bike. <S> You will be doing some strange things with the center of rotation for the bars. <S> At low speed (...i.e. <S> the speed cruiser bikes that normally have these bars), this is probably not an issue. <S> But you get up to high speed on a decent and you might find yourself in trouble. <S> Start slow and see how it handles. <S> Happy riding. <A> The simplest thing to do would be swap the stem for one that gets your handlebar taller, say some 5 inches taller at least, perhaps preferrably more. <S> This would allow you to keep your current "cockpit", with grips and levers and shifters etc. <S> If you don't find the taller stem (I've had a hard time finding really tall stems at the shops), I would suggest a BMX handlebar, since they get your hands much higher. <S> One thing to note is: when you raise your hands and torso, the body weight gets shifted so that there's less weight on the front wheel, which might affect handling making the bike a bit more unstable and prone to unwanted wheelies uphill. <S> The downside is the torque BMX handlebars apply on the stem, which usually is not a problem if you don't ride aggressively. <S> A final note on the BMX handlebar: some shifters don't fit well around the curves of the handlebar, test it before buying, if you will. <S> And, of course, cable and router lengths will most probably need to be replaced for longer ones. <S> Hope that helps! <A> I think using a stem raiser may bring your handlebars to a position where you can ride upright. <S> I used the a stem raiser on my cycle with road-style drop bars. <S> This helped me achieve more upright position. <S> This is applicable to the cycles that you have, just make sure the stem diameters match the fittings. <S> An alternative solution would be to use an adjustable stem, here is an example . <S> These options are cheaper than getting a new handle bar setup, unless you are specifically looking to change the handle bar style. <S> The links above are used as example only, I am not affiliated to mentioned organizations.
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In this case, a BMX handlebar can be more adjustable because by rotating it in the stem you can adjust reach to get a good weight-balance and steering behaviour.
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Determining which derailleur hanger is compatible with a frame When your derailleur hanger needs replacing, is there a good resource for matching frames to hangers? Mine was recently bent, so I had to dig through some websites and compare pictures of the hangers to my bent unit. Surely there's a better way. Any ideas? <Q> Just one company of many that produces replacement hangers. <S> http://wheelsmfg.com/products/derailleur-hangers.html <A> http://derailleurhanger.com/ allows you to search by brand or design (number of holes). <S> It being a distributor of Wheels Mfg parts, the prices may be slightly lower than purchasing from Wheels Mfg directly, especially for single-digit quantities. <S> The search function does require JavaScript to be enabled, however. <A> There is not one place that has an exact list of every bike model ever produced <S> but if you go onto one of the sites mentioned or http://mechhanger.com/ <S> just type inn <S> your bike make and it will narrow it down to a few derailleur hangers to compare. <S> If you are still stuck, send them a picture and let them do the hard work!
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Wheels Manufacturing has a feature to search by brand for their hangers.
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Clip-on to temporarily convert Look pedal to stand-on style? I have a road bike with look style pedals, and I am looking for an attachment I can clip-in to the pedals (where my cleats clip in) to provide a platform so that I can temporarily use ordinary shoes to pedal. I find this convenient if I have to lock up/walk somewhere after so I can wear whatever walking shoes I want (I can't walk in my look cleats and don't want to convert to SPD). <Q> I don't know of any commercial attachment, but there are at least two other ways you can solve the problem. <S> Mikes linked to a DIY solution for eggbeaters. <S> You could easily do the same with Look-style clipless pedals. <S> Just buy a spare pair of cleats for and bolt them to a piece of wood or plastic. <S> You'd need to drill three holes in the flat support piece, but you can probably buy all the hardware (including cleats) for under $30. <S> The disadvantage of this method is that it would be difficult to properly weight the clip-ons so that they rest in a convenient orientation when you foot is off the pedal. <S> You may have noticed that Look pedals always sit with the front pointed upward. <S> This done intentionally so that you can simply slide your shoe and cleat forward into the pedal to clip in. <S> I know that the question asks for something to clip on to the pedal, but it seems like the real problem you're trying to solve is "How can I walk around in the same shoes I ride in? <S> " <S> For that, I would propose an alternate solution: cleat covers! <S> These are rubber covers which fit over the cleat, available at just about any bike shop in a variety of generics and brand names. <S> For "short" distances <S> (every rider is going to disagree on what short means in this context) <S> I find this works acceptably well. <S> I place my feet on the pedals the same as if I were wearing cycling shoes with cleats. <S> In other words, I use the top of the pedal and place the ball of my foot over the axle. <S> Walking around in cycling shoes with cleat covers can be a little awkward at first because your toes are pointed slightly upward (the covers have to go over the cleat, obviously, so that adds even more thickness to the front of the shoe). <S> Most people get used to them pretty quickly, though, and it's really not a big deal. <S> One thing you can try is walking on the balls of your feet. <S> Normally that wouldn't work in cycling shoes because the cleat is smooth and slippery, but with cleat covers you get just as much traction as you would in regular shoes. <A> Personally, I wouldn't do it. <S> For the platform to be of any benefit it will have to have grip of some sort. <S> The resulting grip combined with the torque from your foot twisting naturally can cause the platform to un-clip accidentally. <S> I would recommend just buying a cheap pair of platform pedals and swap as required. <A> http://www.cyclelicio.us/2012/diy-flat-pedal-adapters/ If you have looked everywhere and cannot find anything this might work for you <A> Works with every kind of clipless pedal, and the best part is they have a lifetime warranty. <S> They sell on flypedals.com but shipping is cheaper on Amazon <A> There is the Deckster clipless pedal adapter. <S> Works with most 2-bolt cleats. <A> These guys too. <S> I have not tried them but they look cool.www.bikedabs.com
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Fly Pedals came out with the best version of a clipless pedal adapter. You can, of course, also use the pedals as-is with your street shoes.
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Is there any difference between professionally painting a car and a bike frame? I'm getting ready to purchase a new bike which I love but I hate the color scheme. I can't find any custom bike paint shops in the area. Can I simply take it to a car paint shop and get a professional team bike paint job? The frame is aluminum, the forks are carbon. Am I overlooking something? <Q> You might want to talk to a motorcycle shop that does paint. <S> They are most likely setup to do smaller parts with lots of details. <S> They would be more familiar with masking threaded holes and bearing surfaces. <A> Pop out all the bearing cups, remove the wheels, cranks, chain, everything that is not welded on. <S> Automotive shops can do it, and might be the best but might not be the cheapest, and even if you mask it, bikes are easier to spot minor mistakes on. <S> Don't forget about places that powder paint farming fences or folding chairs. <S> I have always preferred to do it myself. <S> I was trained to paint cars, but it really isn't hard, just remember to start the motion before pressing the trigger and release it while still in the stroke. <S> Stay about 8-12 inches from the bike. <S> (and be careful when touching up around the string) <S> Most bikes can be done in 2, but get 3 just in case. <S> string the bike up through the head tube to a tree or something and give it a nice thin bottom coat. <S> Let it dry in the sun for a few hours. <S> Give it a 2nd thin coat. <S> Dry it over night. <S> Then apply the 3rd coat and let it dry. <S> As long as you have decent paint and don't over paint any of the layers, it should last for YEARS! <A> I took my wife's frame to a local powder coating shop after having the seat tube replaced. <S> I had it completely stripped down with all bearings and attachments removed. <S> They did a really good job and masked all the thread holes. <S> The only awkward thing was that they hadn't masked the pegs where the cantilever brakes are mounted so they needed sanding back. <S> It was just something that I didn't think about mentioning. <A> The one of the differences between bicycle painting and auto painting might be the diameter of the painting gun. <S> The smaller gun could do better detailed work on bicycle. <S> While those guns used in auto shop usually have larger diameter.
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I would suggest going to a paint shop that sells touch-up paint for cars and have them sell you 2 or 3 spray cans of the paint you want (you can customize to any color on the planet and include "pearl" for that cool shine). I have repainted almost every single bike I have owned and have found the absolute best way to be sure you are satisfied with the finished product is to strip the frame COMPLETELY!
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Were there always teams in road racing? Did bicycle road racing always have teams? Were the early road races competed by individuals who were racing for themselves? At what point was it realized that having a team would confer huge strategic advantages? <Q> In this interesting video about the history of the Tour de France, at some point the narrator explicitly mentions the period (during the 70s if I remember well) when great cycling events beginned to change from a one-to-one fight amongst a few super-strong riders (typical example: Merckx) to a teamwork fight amongst well-orchestrated, hierarchical teams (typical example: Armstrong). <S> I think (and the video also mentions it) that this is due, among other things, to an increased understanding - and acceptance - of the importance of aerodynamics (LeMond), and also to advances in scientific training, which leveled the differences between well-prepared riders, I think. <S> Also, the role of the team in one or another era can be inferred from the very title of another excelent video, "Stars and Watercarriers" . <A> It's worth mentioning that even though at first the major cycling events were strictly individual, soon teams started emerging in a "natural", free market way. <S> The stronger riders, who had a real chance of winning, began to pay off the weaker competitors to serve as domestiques. <S> This was at first considered "underhanded", like Marius Balaban mentions, and the cycling federations fought it at first. <S> What happened later can be pictured as a win for reason, common sense and free market, or as a travesty of noble sports ideals, depending on how you are inclined to view the world... <A> Because of some events and underhand tactics of sponsored teams only national teams were allowed to participate between 1930 and 1961 (not sure about the period).In 1962 trade teams returned.
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In the first editions of Tour de France individuals and teams were allowed to participate.
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Is there such thing as an automatic transmission for bikes? Has anyone ever designed or manufactured an automatic transmission (or automatic shifter?) for cycling? I imagine such a device would automatically change the gearing to allow the rider to maintain constant cadence or constant torque on the cranks. I used to daydream about the existence of such a system many years ago when riding my first (battered, second hand) racer as it was such an ordeal to change gears. <Q> http://www.landriderbikes.com <S> They were very heavily advertised several years ago <S> but currently they seem to show up more on craigslist than on TV. <A> I have ridden one - it used weights thrown out by centrifugal force and springs to move the derailleur in and out. <S> Horrible is all I can say. <S> Maybe it was me not being used to it, but things like not being in the gear you left it in, and less than smooth changes - which you have not idea when they are going to happen, especially under power. <S> The only redeeming feature was <S> it was a borrowed bike I could give back at the end of the weekend holiday. <S> That said, for cruising around a by someone who otherwise would not ride, and only on flat, even ground), its would do the job. <A> Trek had a bicycle a few years ago named "Lime" which had 3 speed automatic gearing. <S> I don't think it sold well. <S> It used a gearing system called "Coasting" that was created by Shimano and actually controlled by a computer chip from signals from the front hub. <S> "A dynamo is fitted on the front hub that gauges the revolutions of the wheel. <S> It sends this information to a computer chip housed near the pedals on most of the bikes. <S> From there, the chip, which controls the planetary gears located on the back hub, determines whether to shift up or down. <S> All the chip needs to make its determination is for a rider to pedal four or five times, according to Shannon Bryant, Coasting project coordinator for Shimano." <A> There's the Nuvinci Harmony . <S> It uses the Nuvinci N360 CVP hub, which is a continuously variable transmission , meaning there are no shift points. <S> The Harmony controller changes the ratio based on cadence, or it can be adjusted manually. <A> There have been attempts over the years, but never particularly successful. <S> I expect that, with the new electric shifters, there will be some new attempts at it in the next year or two. <S> With a computer it should be possible to be reasonably "smart", especially if mated to some sort of torque meter. <A> I know Im a little late for this posting <S> but this is the first time I came across such question. <S> I do own a Trek Lime, purchased back in 2007. <S> This is a fully automatic bicycle. <S> It has 3 speeds a front hub dynamo (speed sensor), a shifter module-solenoid (computer) under the center frame, and the 3 speed auto-shifter hub in the rear wheel. <S> As far as I know there has always been autoshifting bikes out there, they're rare and not very cheap, but a joy to ride. <A> As the Nuvinci system has been mentioned in other answers, I'll mention one more. <S> It's a 2 speed system (ratios 1:1, 1:1.37) with a centrifugal clutch. <S> There's no manual shifting possible and no cables involved. <A> Check out the new Autobike http://www.autobike.tv . <S> It uses a CVT. <A> I have one with an automatic, its a six speed. <S> It works really well actually <S> , you just pedal nice and it does a real nice up/down shift in the gears; its not a hard riding bike, it's a nice causal ride, great for me and the dog, but it will up shift and down shift on its own. <S> It seems to be an older bike. <S> I picked it up at a garage sale for ten bucks; it has 3 weights on the back wheel that have the name dad on the and small piece of plastic the size of a dime that rides in a groove. <S> If I'm not riding it wont shift. <S> The only stickers on the bike are ones that say metro and automatic. <S> I have searched the web for about three years and find nothing of the likes of it. <A> Not really, the one from Nu Vinci is closest but Has manual shift <S> the weight factor is an issue. <S> But I believe some solution is possible. <A> It basically seems to be an extension for Di2 electronic shifting. <S> http://www.baronbiosys.com/
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One I recall used a 5-speed rear hub that was shifted by weights on the spokes, similar to a centrifugal governor. I don't know much about it and it doesn't seem to be publicly available yet but Bioshift is the most recent variant I know of. The major problem in developing is the input power is too low for a fully mechanical system to respond smoothly and if you include electronics it becomes too complex. SRAM makes the Automatix hub now.
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Deterrents against partial (component) theft Big question: Is there any way to increase the security of bolted on portions of a bicycle? Specifics: I cycle as my primary mode of transport (in East London) on a early 90s steel road bike with drop bars. It's a good bike, though it could use a paint job. A few weeks ago my bicycle was securely locked in a place with moderate foot traffic (I'd guess someone walked by every 3-5 minutes) for about 4 hours. During that time, someone undid my (quill) stem and the brake cables (at the caliper) and made off with my handlebars, stem, brake levers and brake cabling. So with that in mind, does anyone know of means to secure that portion of my bicycle? (Part of my concern is that I'd love to move to STI/Ergos from my current downtube thumb shifters, but I can't escape the nagging feeling that a move like that would have massively increased the replacement cost of this theft, and I'm yet to find an acceptable security strategy) Update:Was just directed to https://pinheadlocks.com/store/en/ by jstutters on twitter which is clearly close to what I'm after, though not quite right for a quill stem. If anyone has experience with this sort of system, I'd love to hear about it and if anyone knows of something similar that works with quill stems/threaded headsets that would also be very useful· Second Update(Nov 2014):I've taken to using a full setup from http://atomic22.com they're pricy, but exactly what I was after. Been using them for a couple months now and am thus far very pleased. <Q> For quill stems, you can use a rubber cement to glue a ball-bearing into the socket on the stem bolt, making it so you can't get at it with an allen key. <S> You'd obviously want to use a glue that can be removed with a solvent, so that you'd be able to do regular service. <A> One additional technique that works quite well is to camouflage your bike by making it look UGLY. <S> Add reflective tape bits everywhere. <S> Put a ratty cover on your saddle. <S> Zip tie junk wherever. <S> Soft beeswax mixed with food coloring and rubbed on chrome parts will protect the parts and make them look terrible. <S> Get creative! <S> Ideally you can do this without damaging your bike, too! <S> The uglifying technique alone won't stop bike theft, but it takes your bike off of the radar of most thieves. <S> It might also be worth it to consider buying an actual junker for commuting and keeping your nice ride for nice rides (considering a cheap bike costs $100-200 while replacing your wheels/handlebar groups/brakes/etc costs much more). <A> I've heard good things about Atomic 22 , and they have a quill stem fastener. <S> I haven't used them myself though, so don't take this as a recommendation, and ask around! <S> The only other vendor I recall hearing about is Pitlock, but like Pinhead I don't think they have a quill product. <A> Replace all of your allen bolts with security allen bolts. <S> There's really nothing you can do to stop a determined criminal, only slow him down, but security bolts will add a level of confusion which will quickly deter the average opportunistic thief. <A> Pitlock is head and shoulders more secure than Pinhead, which can be defeated. <S> Probably overkill. <S> For this bike I don't plan to upgrade anything so it's not a problem -- and the occasional required part replacement can be handled with a hammer and a punch to break away the JB weld. <A> There is a fairly new solution for securing components I came across recently that hasn't been mentioned here yet: https://hexlox.com/ <S> It's basically a filler for existing bolts that needs a special tool to remove them (the keyword being "existing", meaning no replacements necessary).
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You can go a long way to making a great bike look like a total junker, which makes it a less than ideal target-especially for opportunistic thieves. That said, for my "errand bike" I use the cheaper Pinhead locks in combination with ugliness plus JB Weld in nearly every allen head on the whole bike. Leave scratches and scuffs or cover them with a clear or mismatched paint. Cover brand names wherever possible. Otherwise, the ball-bearing + wax or solder method is probably easiest.
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Suggestions on buying a road bike for the city I'm looking to buy a bike with which to get around Atlanta. My budget is about $500. I've seen lots of suggestions for a fixie but those seem relatively difficult. I plan to ride about 5-10 miles a day. Any help would be much appreciated! Update: I need a bike in order to get around as quickly as possible. There are few hills, but pot holes and poorly paved roads are a problem. I do not need racks or fenders. <Q> I was able to find a ten to fifteen year old road bike with good components (Ultegra) and an aluminum frame for around $600. <S> A friend found a twenty to thirty year old road bike with a steel frame and downtube shifters for around $300. <S> Both were in good condition and have high quality components, with the age of the bikes being the main sacrifice. <S> If you're looking for a nice road bike, you can do it with your budget as long as you're willing to go used, but a new bike in this price range will just disappoint you. <A> A $500 budget is a little tight, but you can probably find something. <S> If by "road bike", though, you mean a bike with drop bars, you're going to have to scratch a little harder, though. <S> But, one thing to keep in mind is that national outfits like REI will start discounting the list prices on their bikes very shortly (if not already), and <S> the later you wait in the "season" the better deal <S> you're apt to get (though of course selection will diminish somewhat). <S> Local bike shops (in your area) are less apt to do this, but are probably more willing to bargain any time of the year. <S> I do recommend you look at the REI web site since they have a nice selection of decent quality bikes (though mostly over your price range). <S> You'll get a fairly good feel for what you can get for the money there. <S> (But I'm really not pushing REI, it's just an outfit <S> I'm familiar with.) <A> Look to a 3 speed hybrid or a flat bar road bike. <S> Craigslist and ebay may really save you some money. <S> Plenty of deals out there for $500. <S> You may want a touring style / path bike because they will have a bigger volume tire. <S> A true road bike has a 25mm wide tire, and touring / path bike will have a 32 or 35mm wide tire. <S> A little better for the bumps and holes. <S> You can try new with places like bikesDirect.com hybrids or Bike Nashbars Hybrids pages. <S> both have deals in the range you are looking for. <A> I've had an old 12 speed, steel framed Miele (c. 1982) <S> move me around Atlanta really well (Northlake area to downtown/midtown/Decatur). <S> The roads in Atlanta are pretty good so my tires at 1.25 in wide, while thick for a racing bike, were plenty thin for commuting and still offered a comfortable ride. <S> Since it does rain a lot in Atlanta, and often suddenly, I had fenders, which if you're commuting are a must. <S> I'd carry my work clothes in a back pack (which with the fenders would not get wet) but would much rather have had a pannier. <S> Performance Bikes (85/N. Druid Hills) <S> I believe even has road bikes (drop bars, light aluminum frame, >18 gears) right in your price range. <S> I'm looking at the Fuji Newest 3.0 for my girlfriend <S> It is a great intro bike especially for what your after <S> and it's only 550 $. <S> Performance is also across the street from REI <S> so you can ride bikes at both in one day easily and then right down the road is Bicycle South.
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With this budget, a used bike will get you the best bang for your buck.
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Which parameters should I track with bicycle computer so I can analyze changes in my riding? I'm building Arduino -based bicycle computer with GPS at my free time as a hobby project.So I have to find out which parameters of ride will be useful to track to see a progress (or any changes) in riding. Later I will surely write software to analyze recorded track. What will be recorded anyway: Trackpoints (latitude, longitude, elevation + time), Cadence, Current front gear number, Current rear gear number. Which parameters should be also tracked to get the best result in ride analysis?Or maybe there is some articles about bicyclists training on the web, that I can read to get more information that could be usefull? <Q> You will obviously be able to get this from your trackpoints, but it can be useful (depending on the frequency of collection of trackpoints) to take speed - directly from your front wheel tacho if possible. <S> This just gives you a higher degree of accuracy. <S> Other nice to haves: <S> accelerometer input - both fore-and-aft, and left-and-right <S> - these can give a good correlation between the movement of the bike and the cadence and gear readings so understand how the power is being transmitted to the road. <A> Pressure sensor / altimeter. <S> http://www.meas-spec.com/pressure-sensors/board-level-pressure-sensors/altimeter-pressure-sensor-modules.aspx <S> The best one of their sensors can detect a change in elevation of 10 cm. <S> I2C interface. <S> These are really great. <S> Bosch makes a sensor with similar quality. <S> Of course the most interesting and most difficult to measure quantity is the power. <S> There is a system that measures the tension of the chain by its resonance frequency, times the speed of the chain that gives the power. <S> Compass sensor, 3 axes, cheap and easy to hook up Heart rate, easy to measure Respiration frequency? <S> Don't know if this is useful, but fun to measure. <S> To be really fancy, put strain gages on the frame. <S> Extra points for putting them on the spokes. <S> Temperature, just because it is easy. <S> Oxygen saturation, don't know if there are cheap sensors. <A> Curiously, I've been tinkering with GPS data analysis (taken from some multi-kilometer randonnees, gpx format).Since you have the 4D trajectory (latitude, longidude, elevation and timestamp), you could theoretically get any derivative or combination of it. <S> For example, currently I am calculating, for each pair of consecutive points in the trajectory: Distance (using geodesic distance, haversine function); Speed (distance over timedelta); Grade (elevation delta over distance delta); I could be working better, mainly due to these factors: <S> It seems that timestamp is recorded as an integer, with one second resolution. <S> That causes a quantization effect which affect speed calculation horribly, specially when the sampling rate is too high (lots of samples per minute); Elevation from GPS alone is not very precise, and causes a lot of noise unless you have a barometric altimeter onboard (which more modern GPS devices already have). <S> So, as others have already suggested, I think the way to go is having dedicated cadence and speed sensor, provided that you could log all the coordinates of each trackpoint at the same time (that is, your board should query every sensor at almost the same time to record their values). <S> Unfortunately, these are expensive things, since power-metering instrumentation (strain-gauges, piezoeletric stuff) are tricky to work with. <S> It would be interesting to extract some metrics from the ride that could tell about the RIDER. <S> For example, some statistic that could tell if a rider is tired or not. <S> So, it would be possible to track evolution of rider's tiring along time, be it between several days or weeks, be it during a long-distance event. <S> Hope that helps!
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Accelerometer, cheap and simple, too. You could try a guitar pickup to measure the vibrations of the chain and the links as they pass by and get both speed and tension. Aside from that, the most useful measure I think should be made by a multi-parameter sensor is torque (and its integral, power) which is what PowerTap hubs and other power meters do.
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change derailleur and shifter in an old road bike reconverted to hybrid I have an old road bike, that I converted to a hybrid bike, I just use it for small tourings. Some time ago I changed the handlebar, the brake levers and the tires. Recently the derailleur broke up, it was in bad shape and there's no way to repair it, so I just want to get a new one, also I would like to replace the shifters, as they are the old ones that are on the frame, and put triggers like an MTB. The bike has a 6 speed cassette, I was thinking in a cheap Shimano Tourney derailleur but I can't happen to find trigger shifters of 6 speed on online stores. My idea would be to put a 7 speed shifter with just 6 speeds and someday change the cassette. What you think? Would be possible to put a 7 speed cassette? Any other suggestions? <Q> It's best to have chain, shifters that match your cassette, both in terms of number of speeds and make (and to a lesser extent model). <S> In a non-matching configuration, your chain will try to sit slightly between gears in certain settings, which is actually rather annoying. <S> Having said that, what you propose will work for locomotion, and depending on how much annoyance you're cool with bearing in a given day it may work well enough for your desires. <S> I tell you these things as someone who has piecemeal upgraged from 7 to 9 speeds; it isn't an ideal solution. <A> Most forward facing rear drops from the 80's and 90's used a small bolt to position the derailleur and the axle nut to secure it in place. <S> More modern bikes mount the derailleur with a separate piece of hardware to a separate deraileur hanger. <S> The Tourney appears to use a separate hanger. <S> Doing some on line research it seems the tourney is offered in both types of mounts. <S> The TX 35 mounts for the forward faced drops. <S> The TX 55 mounts for a derailleur hanger. <A> There's no problem with having a shifter with more "speeds" than the derailer/cluster, so long as the pitch between the components is the same. <S> The shifter will simply stop shifting when it hits the limit. <S> (Generally speaking you probably want the "dead" gear to be the highest one.) <S> (Just did some digging on Sheldon's site. <S> 6-speed clusters come in 5.0, 5.3, and 5.5 spacing. <S> Pretty much all 7-speed clusters are 5.0. <S> But essentially zero 6-speed clusters are designed for indexed shifting, whereas virtually all 7-speed clusters are designed for indexed shifting. <S> This means that 7-speed (indexed) shifters would would not down-shift (to a larger sprocket) <S> a 6-speed cluster very well. <S> You need friction shifters.)
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Depending on the age of your bike the derailleur may or may not fit.
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What are the most significant factors affecting downhill cruising speed? When I'm riding with my friend, I notice that he rolls down hills significantly faster than me. We can be riding next to each other, both in a similar aerodynamic position, but if we both coast he pulls away from me surprisingly quickly. I'm a fair bit taller than him and probably weigh a little more (but only a few kilograms/pounds). Our bikes are similar. We both tuck into a similar position. Apart from our size/shape, the main difference I can see are wheels. I have Campagnolo Khamsin and he has a set of American Classics that he purchased after he got the bike and spent about $800 on. They have a much deeper V than my wheels. My main theory is that the wheels are what's making the difference, possibly with aerodynamics and also better rolling resistance in the hubs, but I'm not sure how to confirm or deny this. <Q> The following forces are acting on your bike as you roll downhill (in more or less decreasing order): Gravity <S> The force of gravity is proportional to mass. <S> If two riders have the same aerodynamic profile, the heavier rider will descend with a higher maximum speed. <S> This is easily seen in the formula for terminal velocity . <S> The intuitive explanation is that the two will experience the same force due to drag, but the heavier rider will have a higher force due to gravity. <S> As you are heavier than your friend, gravity can't explain why he is faster. <S> Drag Drag has a huge effect on descending speed. <S> The aerodynamic properties of the bicycle (the frame, rims, spokes, etc.) can also make a difference. <S> My guess is that rider position is the most likely explanation for your difference in speed. <S> Since you are taller than your friend, it may be harder for you to get into a tight tuck. <S> You mentioned that you think it might be the rims. <S> If this is the case, the front wheel will make a bigger difference than the rear wheel, so you could try swapping front wheels to rule this out. <S> A bicycle with a higher top gear can be pedaled at a higher speed, and a cyclist who can ride at a higher cadence may have an advantage. <S> To rule out pedaling as the explanation, try going downhill with both of you coasting. <S> Rolling Resistance <S> Tires with high rolling resistance are slower than tires with low rolling resistance. <S> If you both have similar 700x23c wheels at roughly the same pressure (or slightly higher for the heavier rider), then you can rule this out. <S> Friction Friction in the hubs will slow down a bike, but this force is probably insignificant unless there is a problem with bearings. <S> Another source of friction is in the freehub or freewheel, which will be ratcheting (clicking) while coasting. <S> The friction may be difficult to compare against your friend's, however, unless you remove a lot from each of your rear hubs. <A> I haven't seen it mentioned, but have you made sure your wheels are true? <S> Am having the same issue and worry there is something like brakes rubbing. <S> After I get the wheels aligned we''ll try try again, starting from 0. <S> If he takes off then well try swapping bikes and seeing if its the bike or the rider! <A> You could use the following equation; (Gravity equivalent power in watts) <S> x (Coasting time in seconds for 1,000' elevation change) = <S> 1360 <S> x <S> (Total weight in pounds) <S> 170lb. bike & rider vs <S> 340lb. <S> bike & rider ( <S> The heavy rider coasting at equivalent 462w noPedal input) = <S> (light rider gravity 231w + 231w pedal input to keep up) <S> 231w pedal input (like superman/woman)
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Pedaling A cyclist who continues to pedal downhill will go faster than one who is coasting. Factors include not only tread type and width, but also the type of rubber and casing. It's possible that your friend is getting into a tighter tuck, which as @ChefFlambe pointed out can even include your leg position.
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any gps improvement on smartphones with barometer? I know that smartphones gps have problems with their accuracy, especially with altitude. But I heard that the Galaxy Nexus has a barometer that theoretically is used to improve the accuracy of the gps. Anyone has used it to track any route? It can compare (in accuracy) to a mid-range bicycle gps device? <Q> Barometric altitude is far more accurate than GPS over several hours IF you have it corrected for the air pressure. <S> Air pressure does not vary quickly. <A> Accuracy varies between each smartphone and dedicated GPS device. <S> It even depends on how the device is used. <S> For example, many smartphones use cell towers in addition to GPS, which can improve accuracy in a city but have no effect on mountain roads. <S> Furthermore, the type of accuracy you require depends on how you plan to use your data. <S> With respect to barometers, a GPS with a built-in altimeter will show improvement in altitude accuracy. <S> Whether this is helpful depends on whether elevation is important to you (see: Is it possible to estimate road grade while riding? ). <S> A barometer will not improve the accuracy of latitude or longitude readings, and if you don't care about elevation while you're riding, you can fix altitude data after you get home (see: How can I fix bad elevation data in a GPS log? ). <S> In short, a barometer will help with elevation accuracy during a ride but won't affect latitude and longitude. <S> Other factors, such as the quality of the GPS receiver and antenna, are more important for the accuracy of latitude and longitude, and these vary from device to device. <A> Barometric pressure is usually accurate to less than 5 meters with even a cheap sensor, provided it is calibrated on the day (A fast changing weather system can trow it out however) GPS altitude is very inaccurate due to the very nature of GPS. <S> Think about the earth, the GPS satellites in orbit, you and the ground <S> The only GPS satellites you can "see" are those above you. <S> To get accurate altitude, you would need to have a satellite below you - which there are - that you can "see" - which you cannot. <S> Therefore it is easy to get accurate lat/long, and hard (nearly impossible) to get accurate altitude. <S> The only way to get altitude from GPS (the kind that is useful to a cyclist), is to augment the data from either Barometric source, or location based. <S> Unfortunately the altitude profile data is not accurate enough for most cycling applications. <S> Although I have not used a Nexus, I rely on a Garmin with barometer when in the mountains - <S> My guess is there is no way a GPS based altitude will be more accurate than barometer.
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So if you calibrate a barometer to a known altitude (using a marker, sign, map, or very good GPS fix) it is much better than GPS for measuring an altitude profile
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Does a typical floor pump have an integrated one-way valve? In order for a floor pump to work correctly, something has to make sure that when we pull the pump piston up, the air from the tire does not escape back into the pump. For that there should be a one-way valve between the tube and the pump interior. My questions is: does the pump itself have its own integrated one-way valve (installed in the pump head, in the pump body or in the hose)? Or does it rely on the existing tube valve (Presta in my case) to keep the air trapped inside the tube between pump strokes? In other words, when I use a floor pump to inflate my bicycle tires, is the Presta valve on the wheel supposed to open and close with each stroke of the pump? Or is it permitted to stay open at all times (pressed down by pump head), while an integrated valve in the pump provides the one-way functionality? <Q> There is a valve in the floor pump, yes, so it is supposed to press in the presta valve the whole time it is attached to it. <S> I too have seen the problem you refer to in the comment on @Useless's answer - diagnosis <S> has always shown this to be down to the presta valve either catching on the side of the pump fitting or just being stiff and refusing to budge. <S> A simple solution I use is to give it a quick press with my finger before using the pump, just to ensure it moves cleanly and isn't stuck. <A> When I press my pump head onto the (presta) valve, I can feel & hear air escaping until I twist the hose/head junction to lock it on. <S> When I unlock and remove the head, some more air escapes until it is fully clear. <S> To me, this indicates that the pump head holds the presta valve open, and the pump head must have its own return valve. <S> This pump head is double-sided though (one side presta, one schrader), so it's possible that a dedicated presta head would be able to rely on the tube's own valve. <A> It knows nothing about the pump state. <S> The valve is kept closed in normal operation by the pressure inside the tube + the threaded collar pushing it up (Presta) or a spring (Schrader). <S> The pump is where the one-way valve lives. <S> Air is supposed to go in and leave your tube whenever you wish. <A> It is easy enough to test. <S> Hold your finger over the nozzle and pump (you can hold about 20 psi). <S> Then take an upstroke with the pump. <S> Does it lose pressure or not? <S> Mine holds pressure on the upstroke. <S> If there was not a check valve at the bottom of the stroke when you let go the handle would come up.
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The valve on the tube (Schrader or Presta) will stay open the whole time your pump head is attached. Air is only supposed to leave the pump and never go in (via the connection to the tube, air gets in elsewhere).
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Jammed Giant brand U-Lock. Unable to insert key The other day I locked my bike to a fence and upon my return about an hour later, I found the lock jammed. I am unable to insert my key fully into the keyhole. My friend suspects that while locking the bike, I might have removed the key too hastily, resulting in the lock pins being misaligned. The lock is a Giant brand U-lock. The key goes in about half way and is unable to turn. I tried forcing the key to turn which resulted in me snapping the key (luckily, I have a spare). Any help in the matter is much appreciated. <Q> I've had this same issue happen with my Masterlock, and generally remedy it with lots and lots of wiggling. <S> It mostly happens to me in the winter when a bit of moisture gets in there, so I don't know if it's the same issue or not. <S> Just go back and forth a lot - sometimes it works quickly, but sometimes it takes ~15 minutes. <S> Either way, that's always eventually worked for me. <A> I've done this before and nearly sheared the key off in the lock before realizing that it wasn't completely seated in the cylinder. <S> Bang the crap out of the lock, and if you have anything slender enough to fit, see if you cant get it up in there and dislodge or scrape anything that might be impacted at the back of the cylinder. <S> Don't be afraid of a bit of dry lube as well, as long as you use it sparingly. <S> Otherwise, cut it off and go to your Giant dealer to try to get it warrantied. <S> Stealing your own bike will be fun- <S> it's quite the social experiment to observe how little people care and/or are willing to get involved. <A> It happens every once in a while, and I am not sure it is anything you did, just the design of the lock. <S> Shoot some WD-40 or something up in there and just wiggle the key around in there, that has helped me in the past. <S> If it is locked to something that makes it so you can't take it somewhere, a hydraulic car jack can be placed inside of it and pop it open. <A> So I just had this happen to me, though it was a Masterlock brand U lock. <S> The key inserted fully but wouldn’t turn all the way to allow me to open it. <S> I had just finished a few hours of exhausting bicycle delivery, and it was returning to my bike in the dark after my last delivery that I discovered I couldn’t unlock it. <S> I read a few forums, including this one, and resigned to go home after jimmy-ing the lock for 20 mins. <S> The next day, I returned with WD-40, a power saw, extension power cable, and a regular saw for good measure - never used any of these tools <S> but they were at my apartment. <S> By sheer luck, the lock opened immediately, without any need to apply anything. <S> Then I tried turning it again and realized it was stuck again. <S> I don’t know how it opened the first time, but if it didn’t open, every attempt after that would’ve been stuck as well. <S> As you can see in the pictures, there’s some dumb plastic thing that goes around one side of the U insert (the side farther from the key). <S> Don’t ask me what it does, but apparently the rather soft plastic got damaged, pushed around, and blocked the turning mechanism. <S> I spent another 30 minutes carving as much of it out as I could with a pocket knife <S> and I hope this never happens again. <S> Just wanted to make this post in case <S> it helps anyone out there. <S> In this U lock mishap, there were no issues with the key parts. <S> I guess I don’t even have an answer to how it managed to open the next day, but perhaps the next person with this problem to come across this post might find it slightly useful. <S> If that is you, I wish you luck!
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My method was to stick the key in as far as it would go, and then repeatedly try and wiggle it back to the most locked position, while moving the key back and for laterally (or whatever the perpendicular direction would be to whichever way it turns.) It's possible you've jammed dirt into the cylinder inadvertently. If that doesn't work, take it to a bike shop and have them chop it and buy a new one.
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What bikes will be used by the competitors in the Mountain Bike Olympics? I'm just curious to know what bike models and setups will be used by the competitors? Is there any data out there on the web? <Q> There was a test event on the Hadleigh Farm Mountain Bike course which will be used for the 2012 Olympics. <S> There are various photos and videos of the event which show the bikes being ridden: Videos on YouTube Photos from The Guardian Photos from Cait Elliott From looking at these: <S> Everyone seemed to be using carbon fibre frames <S> There was a mix of wheel sizes (I assume 26 and 29 inch) <S> Edit - a few things I picked up from the commentary on the 2 races: <S> In the men's race there were 3 different sizes of wheel in use - 26, 27.5 and 29 inches. <S> Most of the riders opted for a single chainring, with the rest using 2. <S> Suspension travel was around 100mm with the suspension set hard. <S> Tyre choice was small lugs to give better grip on the rocky sections. <S> At least one rider was using a "lefty" fork. <S> Some riders were carrying gas canisters to deal with punctures. <S> Bike weight was around 19 pounds (8.6 kg). <A> I came across these articles which have some detailed specs and pics: <S> http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-men/ <S> http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/olympic-preview-the-contenders-women/ <A> For the major favorites, you probably have some chance of finding the setups (not necessarily the most recent ones) at the Mountain Bike > Tech section of http://cyclingnews.com . <A> I read on José <S> Antonio Hermida's twitter account that the olympic course is clearly for a 29er. <S> He posted some pictures preparing his Merida Big. <S> Nine Carbon Team. <S> This is a 29er hardtail. <S> He was also mounting Sram's new XX1 gears which comprises a single chainring with a 11 gear cassette. <S> This or 2x10 will be most used gears. <S> mostly carbon hardtails with a few full suspension. <S> This would include: Merida Big. <S> Nine, Orbea Alma, Specialized Stumjumper, Specialized Epic, Cannondale Flash, etc.
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Most riders used a hard-tailed bike, although some had full suspension Also, most riders will use their team's brand 29er, 26er or Scott's 650b (27.5 aprox.) You can make out manufacturers names on many of the bikes and in some cases on individual components if you're particularly interested in those.
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Will a 650x23 tire fit on my 26" rim? I have an MTB that I have been riding in the city for many years. As such, slick tires suit me well and I have been using a set of 26x1.25 tires for the last 3-5 years but they are starting to show their age, especially after I got caught in the rain last week and the water cleaned off all the dirt and dust. I noticed a number of small punctures that looked like they were stretching out as well as what I can only describe as spider veins (though not cracked) For some reason, 26" slick tires in widths less than 1.5 are harder and harder to find locally nowadays. I saw one tire listed online as 26x1.0 / 650x23. Are these size equivalent? <Q> There are around 8 different rim sizes that fit tires all called "26 inch. <S> " Many are obsolete. <S> The tires all have different Bead Seat Diameter (BSD) and are thus not interchangeable. <S> The ones you are most likely to see in your local bike shop are as follows (largest to smallest): 26 x 1-3/8" = <S> BSD 590mm. <S> Often found on middleweight 3-speeds. <S> 650B (aka 26 x 1-1/2") = <S> BSD 584mm. <S> Mostly found on French or French-style touring or sport cycles. <S> It has found new life as the new "27.5"er MTB size. <S> 650C (aka 26 x 1-3/4") = <S> BSD 571mm. <S> This uses about the same rim diameter as the 26" tubular race tire. <S> Occasionally used on small racing frames. <S> Last <S> but not least, 26" mountain or cruiser (aka 26 x 1.75") <S> = BSD 559mm. <S> THIS is the most common size in the USA for the last seventy years, and the size you need. <S> You can ignore the old inch-based designations if you wish to avoid confusion, and use the ISO sizing standard instead. <S> It is printed on the side of every tire made since about 1964, and consists of two numbers: the tire width in mm, and the BSD in mm. <S> I prefer tires at least 1.25" (32-559), and am riding a 1.75" (47-559) tire right now. <A> No sir. <S> You need a proper modern 26" tire, which has an ISO diameter of 559. <S> That doesnt match up to a 650b or 650c sized tire. <S> The 2nd (bigger) number in the ISO will tell you for sure when you are in doubt. <S> As far as skinny 26" tires go, a few pop into my head: <S> Panaracer RiBMo <S> Panaracer Pasela Specialized Nimbus <S> Your LBS can offer you even more suggestions. <A> No, you will need a 26" tyre. <S> 650b is equivalent to roughtly 27.5" wheel, and is meant to be a compromise between a 26" and 29" wheel, and has been long used by road bikes but is now coming in for XC mountain bikes as well. <A> I found a great article on wheels and tires <S> that does a great job of explaining the sizes and the implications of different choices. <S> It is a bit long to easily summarize, but very roughly: <S> Use <S> ISO/ERTRO sizes when comparing (the ones that look like this "ww-ddd" where "ww" is the width of the inflated tire, and "ddd" is the bead seat diameter, for example a 700 x 32C tire would be 32-622 in ISO sizing), doing this saves you from all of the weirdness of the other sizing systems (for example, a 26 x 1 1/2 tire is not the same size as a 26 x 1.50 tire). <S> Bigger is better (less rolling resistance at a given pressure). <S> Tread is good for off road riding and of little value for road riding. <S> There is also a nice explanation of how to figure inflation pressures.
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So if you want a 26 tire that fits your mountain bike rim but is only an inch wide, you should look for a tire marked 25-559. Personally, I do not like tires that small for city riding, as they must be kept at very high pressure, and even then, they are prone to pinch flats.
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How exactly are pedals attached to crank arms? Recently I tried to unscrew the left pedal of a bicycle by turning it counter-clockwise with a spanner lengthened with a piece of pipe. The net result is the spanner broke apart and the pedal is still there. This makes me wonder. Is that just threaded joint or is there something else besides threading? Is the threading left-handed or right handed? Do I need anything else except what I would normally use to unscrew a threaded joint? <Q> Like Daniel Hicks says, they are threaded opposite to each other. <S> This ensures the act of you pedaling is constantly tightening them both. <S> If they were both the usual right hand threads then the left pedal would eventually unscrew and fall off. <S> So, if you're like me and use the right hand rule to constantly assess which direction you should be turning things to make them move in the direction you want, you'll now need to switch to the "left hand rule" for the left hand pedal. <A> About "just threaded" vs "something else", the answer is: they are just threaded. <S> A possible problem, though, is rust or other chemical bonding, which might make significantly difficult to take the pedal off with raw force (a friend of mine recently broke a spanner, even applying the force in the correct direction). <S> As for the right vs. left rule, if you attach the spanner with the handle pointing upwards, you have to pull the handle to the back of the bike. <A> Before trying to unscrew it, you should spray some degreasant here, like WD-40. <S> Wait for a couple of minutes and then try to unscrew. <S> You should also use a proper pedal wrench instead of a standard wrench (easier and more force is applied). <S> If it doesn't work, spray more degreasant, wait more, and try again. <S> That's the recipe I used for many old bikes, and it usually works but sometimes, <S> even if the bike isn't rusted, there's no other option than to dispose of the crank.
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Pedals are threaded as said above, but over time the pedal may become stuck, especially when the pedal is made of steel and the crank is made of aluminium. Sometimes spraying degreasant and waiting a whole day (or night) is sufficient to unscrew it, sometimes it just doesn't move, and my advice would be to just change the crank and the pedal, or else you might end by hurting yourself.
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Do higher speed crashes result in less serious injuries. I have heard that the severity of injuries tend to decrease while riding a road bike at high speed. An instance of high speed would be like those in the Tour de France. The reasoning behind this idea is "enough" speed allows the cyclist to "roll" upon landing thus decreasing the chance of breaking bones for example. This seems contrary to my basic knowledge of physics and momentum, so, is it true? <Q> In " Epidemiology of bicycle injuries and risk factors for serious injury " by Frederick P Rivara, Diane C Thompson, and Robert S Thompson, the authors gave a questionnaire to 3,390 bicycle riders who had attended a hospital emergency department in the Seattle area. <S> They found that cyclists involved in a crash at a speed greater than 15 miles per hour were 1.4 times as likely to have a "severe" injury (defined as an injury severity score greater than 8) as cyclists involved in a crash at a speed of 15 miles per hour or less. <S> The 95% confidence interval was 1.0 to 1.9. <S> (Caveats: 1. <S> It seems strange to me that the authors only reported odds ratios, when they apparently had the data to compute effect sizes too. <S> 2. <S> The fast cyclists differ systematically from the slower cyclists: the odds ratio fell to 1.2 when other factors in the study were controlled for. <S> 3. <S> It's Rivara, Thompson and Thompson.) <A> This also applies to being hit, or front-to-front crashes. <S> There's even the term "high-energy-trauma", applied by health professionals to injuries involving high energies, for example high kinetic energies. <S> Of course there are confounding factors: are fast riders (professional riders?) <S> more skilled? <S> Are fast racing events the place for a more "focused" riding? <S> Do they fall less, or are someow more prepared to fall? <S> Anyway, I cannot see how a SLOWER fall could hurt MORE than a fast one. <S> It's a matter of kinetic energy, speed of response of human motor coordination, even common sense. <S> Although I have not evidence to bring about, I hope this helps someway. <A> It is totally dependent on the impact. <S> If you run into a wall you want to be going slower. <S> If you hit a bump and are launched off your bike or jump off a cliff you want to be going faster. <S> I don't know physics well enough to explain it that way <S> but I do ride a lot of street (jumping down stairs, off roofs, etc.) <S> so I will explain it how I know you want to land in that sense. <S> Think about the angle of impact jumping off a loading dock, if you drop going at a slow speed you will impact the ground almost at a 90 degree angle, your body will need to absorb almost all the impact (on a non-suspension bike). <S> If you go faster you will impact the ground at say 45 degrees, you will feel a lot less impact on your body. <S> It might help to watch some parkour, they will roll out of a jump because they are trying to transfer the impact at an angle against the ground rather than absorbing an impact perpendicular to the ground. <A> I think there is likely no clear answer. <S> The points go both ways. <S> Yes at speed there is the ability to roll. <S> But also the risk of trauma with a stationary object. <S> Be it an object or the ground. <S> Humans are soft and squishy with fragile bones compared to concrete and asphalt, rocks or trees. <A> These speedy types have learned to be situationally aware, and are more alert to their surroundings and the proximity of obstacles. <S> When I noticed this when riding quite fast on an ebike... <S> I was looking around a lot more and riding much more defensively <S> so if an obstruction were to appear, I already knew where my runout spaces were. <S> Having had one significant-speed whoopsie myself that was caught on camera, I can say that perception of time really does slow down when its all going badly. <S> Perhaps thinking "this is gonna hurt" is the key.
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Taking that to the tour de france (or crashing in general, even on a jump), if you roll rather than slide, your impact on the ground will be a lot less at higher speeds, your chance of twisting a leg or whatever is less because your limb doesn't have time to get planted. Those who can and do ride at higher speeds are generally fitter, often younger, and more able to bounce back from an injury. As far as I know, in any vehicle, there is a direct relationship between speed and severity, statistically speaking, with "lots" of studies showing that.
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My Road bike pedals locked up tonight. Why? I was riding my road bike and my pedals locked up and I couldn't spin anymore. I got off the bike to check the gears and chains and while fiddling with them I heard a loud POP and my rear tire popped and kind of tacoed the bike rim. Why did this happen? What did I do and what can I do to prevent this from happening again? I am new to road biking and I absolutely LOVE it!! I just want to learn more so I can no have the fear of going farther away from my house than I can run home! <Q> Once the tube popped, it would no longer be pushing the tire in to the brakes and allowing your wheel to spin freely again. <A> You almost certainly broke a spoke. <S> Broken spokes are rare on a bike in good condition, but they do happen randomly. <S> You should carry a spoke wrench so that, in case of a broken spoke, you can loosen the spokes on the opposite side to allow the wheel to turn and get you home. <S> Also, loosening the brake on that wheel (as if you were going to remove the wheel) provides more clearance for a wobbly wheel (though of course it seriously reduces your braking ability). <S> (But be aware that exotic wheels with fewer than, say, 20 spokes will taco so badly when one breaks that you'll not be able to correct it with a spoke wrench and/or by loosening the brake.) <A> my rear tire popped and kind of tacoed the bike rim <S> I guess either: the rim sidewall failed (this does wear down eventually, if you're using rim brakes); if sufficiently weakened, the inner tube pressure will buckle the rim outwards, until decompression (or a sharp edge) bursts the tube or, the rim was distorted because of a broken spoke (when a spoke breaks, uneven tension pulls the rim out of true), and <S> either: <S> the spoke caught in the chain or rear derailleur, or the rim distorted enough to foul the rim brakes; if the brake ended up touching the tyre sidewall instead of the braking surface, this would be sufficient to damage the sidewall and again explain the tube exploding
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If you didn't notice any broken spokes, it could have also been that the bead of the tire popped off the rim and caught on the brakes, preventing the wheel from moving and then ultimately dragging on the ground causing a blowout and maybe warping the rim.
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Skid on small frame I bought a new, cheap and maybe nasty fixed gear bike. They were only in sizes 54cm and 56cm, so I had to go for 56cm, even though my road bike is 61cm and I'm 186cm. My first few skidding attempts today failed miserably, because I could not get my weight on the front wheel. I now removed all spacers and lifted my saddle a few inches. Can I learn to skid if my front leg is below the steering bar when trying to lock my legs? How can I get my legs fixed to resist the pedal power? Where should my front knee be located? <Q> Then when your wheel hits the road again, it will skid. <S> You shouldn't need to jam it anywhere against your bike, I'd suggest this is probably a bit dangerous. <S> It's much easier to get the skid started when grip is reduced. <A> Don't shove your legs against the steering bar. <S> Not only can this cause an injury, but it immobilizes you slightly and gives you a lot less control overall. <S> For that moment your leg(s) are pinned you can't do very much and if you start to tumble <S> it's going to be bad. <S> The wet pavement advice is the best. <S> Learn to hop it and get the skid started, but never lock your legs on anything. <A> You should be able to lock up your back wheel without jamming your leg against part of the bike. <S> It's especially easy if you skip the back wheel a little. <S> You'll stop faster if you don't force a skid, just move your weight back and resist as hard as you can. <S> Install a brake, damn it.
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Particularly when you're learning to do a skid stop, you need to hop your back wheel off the ground momentarily and then lock your back leg while your wheel is not in contact with the road. It's good to practice on wet roads.
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How can you remove logos from a bike frame? I'm trying to remove all these annoying labels from my bike. On the main frame there is one big logo, but I'm not sure if it's a sticker or not. The frame is black, but it's very cheaply made, and the logo is a bit higher, but between the letters it gets lower again. Is there some laser techique to get logos like this onto a frame? Or are that also just some weird kind of stickers? Anyhow, how shall I go about removing the logo without damaging the underlying varnish? <Q> It's almost certainly stickered if it's a cheap bike, plus laser etching is usually reserved for bare metal frames - Titanium in particular. <S> Cheap or not, it's still probably got a clear coat over it, and that sticker is almost certainly underneath the clear coat. <A> If the bike was inexpensive it is likely a sticker. <S> Can you feel an edge with your finger nail? <S> You can try to warm the adhesive with a hairdryer and gently peel the sticker off. <S> If the glue residue won't come off try alcohol or GOOF OFF a chemical made for that purpose. <S> Try the chemicals on a small area that is likely to get scratched anyway (like the rear drops near the axle slot) in case it damages the paint. <S> If you cannot feel an edge the sticker may have been applied before the clear coat of paint in which case you can't remove them without ruining the paint. <A> I use 3M Adhesive Remover . <S> It has gotten off all my stickers and duct tape, even some very tough [stuff] that I thought was a lost cause, and has not hurt any of my paint jobs, even some pretty ghetto paint I have used. <S> I got mine at Walmart, but I'm sure any hardware store will have it. <S> Make sure to test it on a small area that is not too visible, like the inside of your rear triangle, before using it, just in case! <A> Be real carefull when using decal removers, such as those used by model builders ( I have been a builder for a very long time) many of thes removers will also remove paint. <S> Then you have a nasty spot on your bike. <S> If you want to disguise the make of your bike, try masking the surrounding area and use auto body touch up spray paint. <S> Most auto part stores will carry this. <S> just try to get as close a color as possible, OR tape up a cool pattern and get a contrasting color. <A> The traditional bike label is a decal. <S> This is essentially the same sort of decal you used to botch while trying to apply it to the wing of a model airplane as a kid, except that, after application, a solvent is applied to dissolve the decal and cause it to "become one with" the paint/varnish. <S> A hobby shop would have the solvent used for decals -- you could try a little of that and see if it loosens the decal. <S> But keep in mind that a layer of varnish may have been applied over the whole mess. <A> I'd be very careful with solvents, some are quite strong and will damage the paint. <S> Be sure to check before. <S> Sometimes nothing happens for a few minutes, and then the paint comes off suddenly. <S> I've been quite successful removing "void if opened" stickers by freezing with liquid nitrogen or freeze spray http://www.techspray.com/category-listproducts.php?cId=10&lang=1 or a hot air gun as mikes proposed. <A> If it's a decal, it was applied by first putting it in HOT water, then put in place. <S> I use the exact opposite to remove these. <S> It will slip lose in short order, say a 10-30 seconds. <S> If it's a sticker, you can heat it with a hair blow-dryer until it's soft, then peel it away. <S> It's messy, and likely to mar or dull your paint job. <S> The Wall-Mart adhesive remover mentioned above should be nice for this. <S> I personally wouldn't bother with sticker/decal removal unless I want to custom-paint the machine, but your mileage will vary on this. <S> Good luck. <A> A several weeks ago I bought some bike name stickers, but then I got a new bike, so I had to remove them, because I wanted to sell the old one. <S> Here: https://bikersstickers.com/en/pages/tips-faq.html ; I learned that it goes off easily when heaten up with a blowdrier, so I tried and it went off almost by itself without damaging the original paint. <S> Maybe you could try it with yours too. <A> I let my bike bake in the sun before doing sticker removal. <S> It's the metal you need to heat to soften the adhesive. <S> Mine came off very easily since the bike was older and any seal coat had long faded. <S> Once the stickers peeled away I wiped the area with a cloth dampened with alcohol. <S> The same product available from a pharmacy. <S> This is safe for skin and will not damage paint but WILL remove adhesive. <A> A lot of the time they can be removed and are just sticker decals. <S> The only exception of not being able to remove a sticker decal with heat or goo gone, is if the bike manufacturer clear coated over the decal. <S> If they clear coat over the sticker it's a lot harder to deal with. <S> And I'm not sure how you would dissolve the clear coat without messing up the paint.
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You'll need something to remove the sticker's glue, though. Unless you're prepared to strip it down to raw metal , prime it, and paint it, you're probably better of just leaving it as it is - especially if it's a cheapie. Get a rag soaked in HOT water, steaming or boiling, and wrap or cover the decal.
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Should I buy a cyclocross bike or road bike to do Triathlons and CX? I have a mountain bike and used it in my first triathlon without slick on. Now I'd like to get into doing triathlons just for fun, not competitively. I'd also like to get into doing cyclocross. Here's my dilemma...should I purchase a road bike and just use my Gary Fisher mountain bike for cyclocross or should I buy a cyclocross bike and use it for Triathlons? Any suggestions? Also what are the top brands for both road bikes and cyclocross bikes for a 5' female and cost range around 1K? <Q> If you have the budget for only one more bicycle you cannot go wrong with a cyclocross bike, you will be able to race CX in the fall (typically after triathlon season) and you can get some fenders and slick tires for road rides in winter/spring and take the fenders off when the weather turns nice for Triathlon season. <S> You can get clip on aero bars if you really want to, but since your planning the triathlons as fun events, there is no need for aero bars or a tri specific bike. <S> I use my CX bike year round, either with CX tires during cross season or fenders/slicks during rainy season and take the fenders off during the summer months. <S> You can get by with a MTB for cross races (I see people all the time with MTBs at cross races), but it will be heavier and harder to carry up the run ups and over the barriers. <S> Take a look at Kona - 'Jake' or 'Jake the Snake' for a good CX bike. <S> Keep that mountain bike and try an XTerra (offroad) triathlon, lots of fun! <A> A cross bike will do a little bit of everything fairly well. <S> A triathlon bike will only do time trials. <S> You're also going to have more options at the $1k range with a cross bike. <S> Slim pickins at that price point for a tri bike. <S> Get some clip on aero bars and get a cross bike. <S> If down the road you really get eaten up with triathlon, and get a dedicated tri bike. <A> It has to depend what your priority will be <S> You could then spend some time adapting your MTB for Cyclocross racing which takes a little effort but can lead to good rewards. <S> The joy of cx is that you can ride whatever you like and have just as much fun. <S> If your priority is going to be triathlon events AND doing better at Cyclocross you would be better suited to spending the money on a nice cx bike. <S> Make sure it has a 46/48t outer chainset which will allow you a big spread of gears and your only real adaptations required will be the tires. <S> Disc's haven't made big strides into European Cyclocross as yet and my opinion is that when Sven Nys starts riding them-That's when it's time to swap from canti's. <S> Good luck
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If the triathlon's are going to be a priority consider spending all of your money on a road bike and add some clip on aerobars. If you do choose to buy a Cyclocross bike the big debate at present is whether you ride discs or canti's.
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Does a rear derailleur guard provide effective protection? I recently caught my rear derailleur on a log and snapped it in two. I have done some recent work on some department store bikes and noticed that some come equipped with an axle mounted guard around that surrounds the derailleur. Does anyone have any experience with these. Do they work or is it just something else to get snagged by brush and vines? <Q> I had a mate fall off with one attached it got bend and jammed the derailleur so bad we had to walk home, as the tools we carried were not good to get it off. <S> I have seen many prangs where the derailleur took bigger hits with no problems. <S> Most that I have seen (Department store ones) are too light and cheaply build to be anything other than cosmetic. <S> Department store bikes often don't have a hanger, hence the derailleur takes the full impact. <S> I have though about it, but with years of Mountain biking, many falls (some big), only ever bend a hanger. <S> They may work, but I asked - why do no mid/high end bikes them. <S> Is it purely weight <S> , do the want to sell more parts, or is it just not worth weight and money required to make a bike so strong it cannot be broken in a fall. <S> I decided (for me) they a not worth while..... <A> I had one on my bike in Japan. <S> I never had problems with them, my derailleur stayed intact. <S> I didn't take it through many bushes, but I did drop it a lot on the right side (naturally get off that side, and I never use a kick stand) and have bumped against posts and stuff. <S> The riding I do now is in the mountains, lots of rocks but not much brush <S> so I don't ever think about it anymore. <S> The one I had was bolted to the dropout, but covered the same area as the ones I have seen on the axle. <S> If you are going through some pretty tough brush, it might not protect against everything, but for the protection it does give, it is definitely worth the effort. <A> I have seen some bikes with the derailleur being bent because the bike fell on the derailleur side. <S> So I usually recommend to have one so that your derailleur is protected, and it proved useful for me a few times, but some guards are just too light and they bend and then bend the derailleur, so it must be heavy to really protect your derailleur. <S> Yes it makes your bike heavier, but what the heck, to gain weight on your bike just wear short pants instead of jeans, you'll gain more weight than using costly parts on your bike.
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It also depends on the bike - better bikes have a derailleur hanger that is sacrificial and bends, protecting the derailleur in many common prangs.
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Replacing the front derailleur: unlink the chain? If I want to replace the front derailleur on an already set up bicycle (replace SRAM Apex with SRAM Force), do I have to unlink and relink the chain on order to thread it through the FD cage? Or can I open the cage instead? I notice that the FD cage has a screw near the bottom. Can I just unscrew it, open the cage, put it over the chain and replace the screw afterwards? It looks like a have to force the cage open for that to work, risking damage to the cage. Virtually every FD replacement guide on the Net does it by threading the chain through the cage before the chain loop is closed, but most of them apparently refer to new setups. What about the situations when the chain is already installed? A followup : Unscrewed the cage and installed the derailleur without unlinking the chain. The cage is actually slightly pre-tensioned to spread apart when the screw is removed. Granted, it is easier to perform the initial alignment and adjustment of the derailleur without the chain, but it is also doable with the chain in place. <Q> If your chain has a powerlink, you can disconnect it pretty easily. <S> Otherwise, it is pretty straightforward to open up the cage and slip the chain out. <S> It shouldn't damage it <S> (as front derailleurs are pretty simple mechanisms). <A> Do it gently, and there is enough spring resistance in the steel to return to it s proper shape. <A> 10 speed SRAM Powerlinks require a special tool to undo and, unlike their 9speed counterparts, are not supposed to be reused. <S> That said, you can use a pair of needle nosed pliers in a pinch, and the Powerlink can be reassembled after breaking it if you want to take the (relatively small) risk. <S> However, if both derailleurs have screws as opposed to rivets, just undo the screw. <S> Not a bad idea to apply threadlocker to the screw upon reassembly as I have seen them fall out before.
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Yes, if you have a removable screw at the back of the front derailleur, you can remove it, spread the derailleur cage, and slip the chain through.
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Flying with your bike I am going away on a cycling holiday to the Alps and need to take my bike on the plane with me. Has anyone had experience taking bikes on planes and how did you protect your bike? Can anyone recommend anything which will solve this problem? <Q> There are two schools of thought. <S> 1a) <S> Bike box: <S> This is a hard shell, fairly large box that with wheels, pedals removed, and handlebars (disconnected at the stem) put to the side fits your bike. <S> From a safety of your bike perspective this is pretty protective. <S> I have used this approach flying within the United States, and over to Europe. <S> You will almost certainly be charged by the airline extra. <S> At one time membership in the US's Mountain Bike association (whose name escapes me) had a deal with many airlines to waive the fee. <S> 1b) <S> Paper bike box: Sometimes you can buy these at airports (Call ahead), or else many bike stores will let you grab one from a new bike they recently assembled. <S> (I know taking Via Rail on Sunday from Ottawa to Toronto <S> they sell them for $10 at the train station). <S> 2) Bike bag: By using a soft bag, it implies to the luggage handlers, be gentle. <S> I know people who travel with bikes who swear by them. <S> Again wheels and pedals removed, to minimize size. <S> I am not personally convinced that luggage handlers at airports around the world really feel that way. <S> You will still likely have to pay an oversized luggage fee. <S> In both cases, many airports have different luggage carousels so it will probably NOT come off with your regular luggage, so look around or ask where that might be. <S> I have seen as nice as a specially marked obvious area, <S> to an unmarked door you have to wait at. <S> Also, some smaller planes might not have room for your box or bag, so they might send it later, making you wait for it, depending on how your connecting flights work out. <A> I've flown twice from Australia to Europe using a bag. <S> On the whole it was great. <S> Once my wheel needed a bit of truing, and on one trip (home luckily) my derailleur hanger was bent and needed replacing. <S> The advantage of a soft bag is you can pack it up when you arrive, which is great if you are touring. <S> British airways had a policy where you could buy an extra luggage allowance for a bike for about $50, ie not per kilo, though that was about a year ago and may have changed. <S> Either way you have to dismantle your bike fairly significantly, so make sure you have the skills to put it back together :-) <A> This mini review of the airlines may help You will no doubt need a bike-bag these range from 60quid to hundreds <A> I am a fan of boxes, I have flown all over europe, and once to New Zealand with my bike and the worst damage were some scratches, and (once) a slightly bent rear derailleur (that was quite fixed). <S> In the Netherlands you can buy really strong really nice boxes from KLM, and they fly the all over the world for about EUR 100,- one way (including the box). <S> These boxes are so big you just have to remove your pedals, lower your handlebars and saddle, and you can drive your bike right in. <S> They mostly get their bikes shipped in boxes that .. oddly .. fit an entire bike! <S> The best you can get are Koga boxes. <S> They are huge and strong, but not worldwide: http://www.koga.com/koga_uk/find-dealers/ Regarding the return trip: What I usually do if I'm returning from the same airport is to spend an hour or two to find someone willing to keep my big-ass box in his office or storage space for a few weeks. <S> If this doesn't work I ditch the box and buy a cheap foam camping mat and a roll of duct-tape at the last campground and wrap pieces around the most vulnerable bits of my bike.
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Outside the Netherlands you could check the odd-size luggage department of various airlines to see if they carry boxes, but a better option is to ask your LBS to save a box for you. Box is safest for your bike, no doubt.
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The back brake on my bike is not functional, is it illegal for me to cycle in the United Kingdom? I live in the UK and cycle to and from work. I recently noticed that the back brake on the bike is not functioning. Is it legal for me to be cycling on the road (the front brake works fine but it is a bit difficult to stop at, for example, pedestrian crossings) <Q> Yes, technically . <S> Most sorts of cycle are required to have at least two efficient braking systems, by which the front wheel (or wheels) can be braked independently of the rear wheel (or wheels). <S> The likelihood of you receiving a ticket, fine, or other punishment is infinitesimal. <S> It could happen, but it almost certainly will not. <S> Practically, the front brake is much stronger than the rear brake. <S> Most experienced road cyclists almost exclusively use the front brake . <S> Why is it "a bit difficult to stop" in some circumstances? <S> That said, you should absolutely have it fixed. <S> Having redundant brakes is important for your personal safety. <S> Brakes and brake cables can fail. <A> In England and Wales, the relevant legislation is the Pedal Cycles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1983 which say: 7.—(1) ... (a) <S> every pedal cycle shall be equipped with at least one braking system; (b) every bicycle or tricycle the height of the saddle of which is 635 millimetres or more and every cycle with four or more wheels <S> shall— <S> (i) <S> if it is so constructed that one or more of the wheels is incapable of rotating independently of the pedals, be equipped with a braking system operating on the front wheel ...; (ii) if it is not so constructed that one or more of the wheels is incapable of rotating independently of the pedals, be equipped with two independent braking systems one of which operates on the front wheel ..., and the other of which operates on the rear wheel ... <S> 10.—(1) <S> No person shall ride, or cause or permit to be ridden, on a road a pedal cycle ... <S> unless the braking system or systems with which it is required to be fitted ... are in efficient working order. <S> (I've elided a bunch of exceptions that apply to tricycles, quadricycles, etc.) <S> (See Road Traffic Act 1988 §41A .) <S> You say, the front brake works fine but it is a bit difficult to stop <S> The front brake should be easily sufficient on its own to stop quickly, so it sounds as if your front brake needs adjusting too. <S> For your own safety and the safety of other road users, get your brakes fixed! <S> There are lots of instructional videos out there, or your local bike shop will be happy to do it for you. <A> Just to note something from another country, in France you must have two brakes: Tout cycle doit être muni de deux dispositifs de freinage efficaces. <S> (From the road code, art. <S> R315-3, "All bicycles must have two functioning brakes.") <S> If you don't have two brakes, you can be fined €11, although usually cops don't care about bikes as long as you're not drunk-riding. <A> No answer for the original poster, but maybe interesting for readers in Germany: <S> (1) Alle Fahrzeuge müssen eine ausreichende Bremse haben, die während der <S> Fahrt leicht bedient werden kann und ihre Wirkung erreicht, ohne die Fahrbahn zu beschädigen. <S> Fahrräder müssen zwei voneinander unabhängige Bremsen haben <S> Translation: <S> (1) <S> All vehicles require a sufficient brake, which can be handled easily during the ride/driving and which reaches it impact without damaging the road. <S> Bicycles require two independent brakes. <S> Source: <S> Straßenverkehrs-Zulassungs-Ordnung §65 . <A> You must have at least one braking system working to be legal. <S> Coaster bikes only have a rear brake anyway. <S> But what conerns me is your statement that the front brake is working fine, yet you find it difficult to stop at a pedestrian crosing. <S> If the front brake ( the most efficeient brake in most two wheel brake systems due to ther being relatively little weight on the rear wheel ), is working fine, then you should be able to stop very efficiently. <S> You should have to be wary of getting tossed over the handle bars! <S> Therefore, I'd suggest taking time to either replace the brake pads or adjust the system if you're having difficulty stopping. <S> You may save your own skin or that of a pedestrian in a cross walk. <S> Check the wheels and the brake pads to get them both working efficiently. <S> Bicycling is inherently dangerous in some areas anyway, so you must be able to protect yourself and others from getting injured. <A> Minnesota (USA) law: (b) <S> No person shall operate a bicycle unless it is equipped with a brake which will enable the operator to make the braked wheels skid on dry, level, clean pavement. <S> Minnesota Statutes 169,222(b) <S> This, technically, may disqualify front brakes on standard bikes, since on dry pavement the bike will probably flip before the wheel skids.
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So for an ordinary bicycle with a freewheel, it would be a criminal offence to ride it on a road unless you have two braking systems in efficient working order. But as Stephen Touset says, it would be unheard of for police to check your brakes unless you were involved in a crash.
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What are the disadvantages of wearing an aero helmet? During the Olympic Final of the Men's Keirin one competitor (Chris Hoy) was wearing an aero helmet (red helmet in the picture below), the other competitors wore normal helmets: The advantages of wearing an aero helmet seem pretty obvious - less drag so you go quicker (Chris Hoy won the gold medal). However, most of the competitors did not wear an aero helmet so I can only assume that there are some disadvantages to wearing an aero helmet, what are they ? <Q> They're heavier, hotter <S> (vents would do the opposite of what you're trying to do with an aero helmet, which is to route air up and over the helmet), and it's more difficult to turn your head <S> (it doesn't completely prohibit turning your head but you lose the benefit of the shape as you turn it off-axis) <S> so you have to depend on peripheral vision more. <S> Plus, if you wear one on a bike path while towing a kiddie stroller federal law requires all other riders (including small children riding Huffys) to treat you with "derision and scorn". <A> All the helmets in the picture are aero helmets, just different styles. <S> Helmet needs in sprint competitions <S> are different than for individual timed events as the rider is more likely to turn their head around to assess the race situation as well as be in various positions on the bike (e.g. out of the saddle while accelerating) which means the interaction of the helmet and body for air flow is more variable and needs to be a compromise for this more variable situation. <S> For this reason a more uniform spherical like shape has become common. <S> Nevertheless, depending on the rider, some helmets are a better aero choice than others. <S> It is individual and no single helmet is universally the best aerodynamically. <S> I regularly test helmet aerodynamics for riders and am constantly surprised by the results. <S> Hoy quite possibly doesn't turn his head as much as he has tended to race like a human derny . <S> For national level track riders, don't assume all have tested these things. <S> That level of attention to detail isn't as common as some are led to believe. <S> For road professionals keep in mind <S> they mostly ride sponsor's equipment whether or not it is aerodynamically superior or inferior. <A> A lot of road racers look side to side which, if wearing an aero helmet, causes more aerodynamic drag
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Aero helmets are more aerodynamic...as long as you look straight ahead.
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Simple plain English explanation of VO2 MAX What is VO2 MAX and how is a measurement taken? By how much can VO2 MAX be increased in the average person? <Q> It is usually reported as as milliliters of oxygen used in one minute per kilogram of body weight, though sometimes you see liters of oxygen per minute with no adjustment for body weight. <S> The former measurement is more useful in exercise and sports science since it allows the measurement to be compared among athletes of widely different weights. <S> The test subject wears a mask and heart rate monitor. <S> The mask is connected to a device that collects and measures of the volume and oxygen concentration of inhaled and exhaled air. <S> At some point below maximum effort the body switches from aerobic to anerobic processes to generate energy. <S> Exercise intensity is increased gradually until the subject is at a maximum aerobic effort - beyond which there is not or only negligible increase in oxygen uptake. <S> That is the VO2 Max point. <S> I don't know how much it can be increased in any individual, and there are both genetic and exercise components. <S> This page lists that: The average for a sedentary individual is close to 35 ml/kg/min. <S> Elite endurance athletes often average 70 ml/kg/min. <S> One of the highest recorded VO2 max results (90 ml/kg/min) was that of a cross country skier. <S> Cyclist Lance Armstrong's VO2 max was reported at 85 ml/kg/min. <S> For even more detail, including the associated math, see Wikipedia: V02 Max . <A> Vo2 Max is a measure of 2 things: Physical lung capacity -- This a measurement of the actual cubic feet of airspace available in your lungs. <S> This is a genetic factor, which cannot be trained up. <S> Ability to transfer oxygen in your blood stream. <S> Increased red blood cell counts mean more carriers available to transport oxygen to the active muscles in your body. <S> This can be increased through exercise or drugs. <S> The latter course, drugs, while common will bar you from any competition, and is both dangerous and illegal. <S> The combination of the 2 gives you your oxygen consumption rate, which is also known as Vo2 Max. <S> VO2 max (also maximal oxygen consumption, maximal oxygen uptake, peak oxygen uptake or maximal aerobic capacity) is the maximum capacity of an individual's body to transport and use oxygen during incremental exercise, which reflects the physical fitness of the individual. <S> The name is derived from V - volume, O2 - oxygen, max - maximum. <S> VO2 max is expressed either as an absolute rate in litres of oxygen per minute (l/min) or as a relative rate in millilitres of oxygen per kilogram of bodyweight per minute (ml/kg/min). <S> The latter expression is often used to compare the performance of endurance sports athlete <A> One note about VO2 max, is that it is becoming more and more an academic interest number, as studies are increasingly showing that it is a poor predictor of actual performance. <S> The two numbers that are becoming more important/relevant are vVO2max, and tlimvVO2max. <S> vVO2max is the minimum running/cycling speed at which your VO2 max level is attained, and after a few minutes of which, additional power has to come from anaerobic sources. <S> This number is receiving increased attention (especially in running) as economy of motion is becoming a factor. <S> A more efficient athlete will be traveling faster when they hit VO2max, so their vVO2max is higher than a less efficient athlete. <S> In cycling (especially for TT), aerodynamics and proper fit will increase economy (Getting more speed out of the same effort). <S> In aerodynamics I include losing weight, as a larger person presents a larger wind profile, efficiency would be enhanced through a proper fit, and comfort/familiarity on your bike. <S> tlimvVO2max is simply the time limiter for VO2 max, or how long you can continue to keep your pace once you've hit your VO2 max. <S> If two cyclists both hit their VO2 max at 26mph, but cyclist A has a tlim of 10 minutes, while cyclist B has a tlim of 15 minutes, cyclist B will win. <S> (Assuming the finish line isn't 10 minutes away :p) <S> Both tlimv and vVO2 can be increased through greater efficiency and training, while VO2 is a relatively static number, and really only indicates potential, so while VO2max is an interesting number to know, simply knowing it won't really help you change anything in your training.
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VO2 Max refers to the maximum volume of oxygen that an individual can use at maximum levels of intense aerobic exercise. It is usually measured in a fitness lab setting using either an exercise bike or a treadmill.
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How effective is checking spoke tension by ear? Sheldon Brown's Wheelbuilding page links to the article: Check Spoke Tension by Ear . Obviously a tensiometer would be ideal, but Sheldon suggests that checking spoke tension by ear is a reasonable alternative. The article was written in 1987 and updated in 1997; are there any developments from the last 10 to 20 years that would invalidate the technique or require adaptation? For example, the article mentions that dished wheels require a different pitch on the left and right sides, but how great should this difference in pitch be? In general, how effective is tensioning by ear? <Q> That depends on how good your ear is. <S> If you can tune a stringed instrument effectively, then tensioning a wheel by ear is very effective. <S> Identical spokes that have the same pitch when plucked should have the same tension within the margin of error for any tensiometer reading. <S> The catch is you need a tensiometer to get the relative tone for the proper kg/f tension on the spokes, unless you have perfect pitch and can remember up to four different tones for a single wheelset. <S> Keep in mind that for a wheel with any amount of dish, the tension, spoke length, and therefore the pitch, will almost certainly be different from one side of the wheel to the other. <S> Therefore, once you have your tone for a given kg/f reading it will only be accurate for one side of one wheel (there are exceptions, such as a front road wheel, or a flip flop rear wheel). <S> Flange heights and spacing vary from front to rear hub and side to side as well, also with some exceptions. <S> Also worth noting that different gauges and shapes of spokes of the same length and tension will have a different ring to them. <S> In short, don't assume that the pitch of properly tensioned spokes on one side of one wheel apply to the rest of the spokes on the wheelset, and certainly don't use the pitch of a spoke on a wheel as a reference for a completely different type of wheel. <S> Anecdotally, I was discussing this very issue with a friend of mine the other day. <S> He said that he believed tensioning by pitch gave a valid reading, but that he couldn't do it because he was mostly tone-deaf. <S> So to reiterate, if you don't have a pretty good ear musically, then this isn't a viable method of checking tension. <A> The method I use (still need to get a tension meter to verify) is as follows: <S> The formula for the connection between tension (KgF) to frequency is f <S> = 1/(2L)*sqrt(T/u) where L is the length of the spoke, T is the tension (in Newtons) and u is the linear density of the spoke. <S> ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vibrating_string ) <S> you can get the linear density by dividing the spoke mass by its length. <S> you can get the tension T by multiplying the KgF in 9.98 to get it in Newtons. <S> It is important to use all the length measures in meters and all the masses in Kg. <S> for example for 140 KgF and 260 mm spoke that weighs 6.5g <S> you get the frequency to be (1/2 <S> *0.260)*sqrt(140*9.98/0.025)~450Hz which is approximately A4. <S> this results also correlates with John S. Allen's article http://www.bikexprt.com/bicycle/tension.htm . <S> If anyone gets to check this with a tension meter to confirm it would be helpful. <A> How about this? <S> https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/spoke-tension-gauge/id518870820?mt=8 <S> It is an iPhone based spoke tension gauge that uses sound to determine tension. <A> All the wheels I built by ear were within the tolerance when I finally got a Park Tension Meter. <S> However, I can build much more consistent nowadays with the meter. <S> Somehow the range of tension from one spoke to another <S> is so much better that I would never like to build without it ever again. <S> I think the wheels will last much longer with consistency from one spoke to the next.
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To summarize, with a good ear you can use pitch to check tension on spokes, but it's more of a timesaver than a replacement for a tensiometer as you need a baseline tone at proper tension to check the rest of the spokes against. So don't leave any loose ends, just buy the meter.
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What is the usual pattern of use of a velodrome (cycling track)? In the first place, if the title is not properly describing my question, please edit it. The fact is: the bike advocacy groups of my city are slowly getting some attention from City Hall, and bicycle culture is slowly growing, with some cycle paths and education campaigns. The growing of bikers, in the other hand, is much faster, and there are a lot of people prone to advocacy and putting pressure on the politicians. We are beginning to think about asking to build a public velodrome (track), nothing fancy, but something that would allow regular folks, respecting some rules of course, to train in a controlled environment instead of in traffic. The problem is (and now come the questions): How can city hall perceive any positive effects of having a velodrome, so as to justify investment? Should we mention racing events, and such? Normally, the cities which have velodromes allow non-track bikes to train there? What are the common restrictions for use of a public velodrome? What should we care about, in terms of size, surface type and other norms, in order not to end up building a track that could not be used in official events? Thanks very much for reading and for any advice! <Q> Velodromes are not a suitable cycling venue for members of the general public. <S> They require specialized equipment (e.g., higher bottom brackets to avoid pedal strikes), training (e.g., no moving up/down track without ensuring you have room, maintaining enough speed in corners), and discipline. <S> Expecting untrained riders and/or unsupervised novices to ride on the track is practically begging for crashes, injuries, and lawsuits. <S> As an example of restrictions on use of public velodromes, the Dick Lane Velodrome in East Point, Georgia was built as a public venue. <S> Control over operations was granted to a 501(c)3 nonprofit, the East Point Velodrome Association. <S> It is operated as a sporting venue. <S> Track bicycles are required, with the single exception of pursuit-style events, where riders may (but for all intents and purposes never do) ride a standard road bicycle. <S> Cheaper and more appropriate for your purposes would be to petition the city to build a circuit. <S> Essentially, just a mile-or-so long, limited-access, paved bicycle path that loops back onto itself. <S> No banking necessary, and bike paths are cheap and fast to build. <S> You're not constrained to a flat oval, and turns need not be sharp enough to require banking for fast riders. <A> Honestly, I don't think that a velodrome would accomplish what you are intending, taking the public from the streets to the track. <S> Riding on the banks of a velodrome (Unless it's wide/long such as the 'drome at the end of Paris-Roubaix) is an accomplished skill, so what I'm afraid you'd have is a bunch of riders doing laps at the bottom of the track. <S> Also, unless you make a velodrome the size of Indianapolis Speedway, it's going to be size prohibitive for being able to accommodate a lot of riders, it would quickly become very congested and nearly as dangerous for untrained/average riders as the street with a bike lane. <S> And, your serious track riders will not use it during public hours for that reason. <S> If you have a strong advocacy group, I would lobby for more bike lanes, public awareness of the 3 foot laws, more off the road bike paths and other safety/training opportunities than a limited use velodrome. <A> This an old thread with an accepted answer; the consensus is against the idea. <S> So here is a dissenting view . <S> In my city (Melbourne, Australia), there are seven velodromes that are open to the public. <S> Access is always with personal responsibility. <S> These open (to the public and to the sky) facilities see fairly constant use, and regular club use. <S> Most of them are listed on this incomplete wikipedia page. <S> There are also 3 high quality covered velodromes with controlled access, and in the wider state (Victoria) we have 9 more velodromes, most of which are open. <S> At the public velodromes, we do <S> not see crashes, any more than crashes on bike paths, roads, and cycle lanes. <S> Users self-select by experience how they ride. <S> Beginners, with some "coaching" from more experienced users ride at the bottom. <S> As they gain experience / skill / speed, they ride higher up. <S> Most of the public velodromes have banking of only ~20°, but some have banking (at the ends) of up to ~40°. <S> The outdoor velodromes are nearly all concrete; a few are asphalt. <S> The indoor ones are all wood. <S> I certainly agree that velodromes should not be the highest priority for cycling infrastructure. <S> They should be part of an integrated cycling lifestyle culture. <S> They benefit their users, and non users . <S> Velodromes are like any sporting infrastructure. <S> The more you have, the more they are used, and the better the health and sporting outcomes are. <S> @heltonbiker <S> It would be interesting and helpful to others to hear (three years later) how that advocacy turned out.
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A velodrome is one place where a cyclist can ride as fast as possible, without endangering others, and minimal danger to themselves. Members of the public are allowed to ride on the velodrome during unscheduled hours provided they have signed a release waiver, are accompanied by at least one other person, and have completed a weekend-long training course.
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Is there a quality alternative to powder coating when it comes to repainting a steel frame? I'm not a paint expert and want to make a choice that will last a few years. I know that powder coating will last a long time, but I'm restoring an older bike and don't want to spend too much. Maybe someone has a creative solution. <Q> Powder coating, done right, is quite durable. <S> I have had it done on an old steel frame a few years ago and have been happy with the result. <S> The more expensive alternative is regular paint. <S> As far as vehicle owners go, you can't find ones that are more vain than motorcycle riders. <S> These people often get paint or powder coat jobs done. <S> The good news for us is that that means there's always a nearby facility that can handle bike frames. <S> Bicycles are just like motorcycle frames except more simple. <S> So, look for places that handle motorcycles <S> and you then know they can do bikes too. <S> What you need to do first is to take off all parts from the frame including the bearing race on the fork (will require a bike shop or very special tool). <S> The shop will then be able to blast the old paint/coat off your frame, clean it with a solvent and apply a base coat and paint or powder coat. <S> If the shop has done motorcycle frames, they will know what to do with holes and threads and know which areas should be free of paint. <A> What kind of steel? <S> IIRC <S> , powder coating/anodizing can't be done on all metals, and some metals have less options and are more costly (Such as Ti frames). <S> Also, you have to consider the effect of the heat in the process on the welds, and whether they will be affected. <S> The other thing to consider is if you want customization. <S> Take a site such as HotTubes and the paint jobs they have produced, you aren't going to be able to get that with a baked finish. <A> Is there any difference between professionally painting a car and a bike frame? <S> has a lot of suggestions about powder coating. <S> DIY Painting a Bike Frame: Is it possible? <S> talks about stove enamel as an alternative to powder coating. <A> Cyclart <S> (Some customers report issues with their service , however); Yellow Jersey ; The Color Factory advertises in Velo News, $140 for a repaint with Imron; Joe's Bicycle Painting ; Joe Bell's Bicycle Refinishing ; <S> And the list goes on...
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A paint job will probably never be as durable as powdercoating or anodizing, but unless you're really hard on your bikes, the only places you might notice it are on the unders of the bike where rocks may strike, and you can get clear protectors for those areas if you want. There are a lot of business that will strip/repaint a bicycle frame using quality paint.
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Why is BMX gearing so low I was watching the BMX racing on the 2012 Olympics and the gearing seems incredibly low. About half way down the start ramp they are already going too fast to keep pedalling and they barely seem to be able to pedal effectively any other time through the race. Why don't they adjust the gearing to be higher so they can get more power down through the course? <Q> The tracks do not have many long stretches and so cornering and getting ahead of the pack is a lot more important than going fast in the flats. <S> The gearing on a race BMX is higher than on one you will buy out of the store. <S> Most BMX will come with 44:16 gear ratio where racers will use 46-48:16, and I have seen higher. <S> (There are different rear sizes but the standard is 16 when talking about Gear Ratios , even if you ride 9t or 14t rear you almost always know the conversion to 16t.) <S> As it stands, the berms are where you make your moves and getting in and out of the berms require more power than raw speed. <S> I raced 44:16 against guys with 46:16 and never placed lower than 3rd. <S> You want more power than over all speed on a race track. <S> On street or in park you want even lower gearing, especially when you are trying to get that last pop before jumping up onto a rail. <A> This is all my guessing based on BMX racing when I was younger, but getting ahead of the pack out of the starting gate is a rather big deal. <S> Once you're behind or right next to someone else, you sometimes have to tap the brakes to avoid them, so there's a huge advantage to this sudden rush of acceleration. <S> This would be a clue as to at least an upper limit on gearing. <S> You might have some advantage to higher gearing after the starting gate, but you wouldn't have the quick burst <S> and you'd probably spend much of the race making up for it. <S> Much of the gear selection from at least stock BMX bikes has to do with age; I remember having a lot of difficulty with how high mine was geared because of my age. <S> This would be why some youth-oriented BMX bikes have low gearing, although this doesn't apply at all to professional circuits. <A> There are two things no one has mentioned: <S> This is a CONTACT SPORT, track have one PERFECT line, and is the one that first guy will use, and there are pretty low chances to have few other guys in the same race, with a better line or even the chance to select a better line. <S> So elbows, cuts, hits and everything is allowed to get that PERFECT LINE. <S> A few years ago, there were SINGLE SEEDS LAP to qualify TOP bikers (single biker lap) where some of them used to change the gearing. <S> Basically, there are only short track sections where you can pedal and apply full power, and the whole stuff is around that issue. <S> There were several attempts to use shifters, but nothing too effective (shifting and BMX aren't good friends) <S> https://vimeo.com/31119376 <S> (you can see BARRY NOBLES with 3 crashes because of XTR fails) With that in mind, is all about RPM and legs speed. <S> Having in mind that most powerful muscles acts for a very short time in a pedal stroke, then you need to see how to have more strokes instead a long one. <A> It is because BMX racing is sprint racing. <S> The riders stand and spin very quickly. <S> There are a variety of crank lengths available which can help achieve higher cadences (RPM) based on your skill and leg length, and which in turn affect gear choice.
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If the tracks had longer straights like a mountain bike course you might see more bikes with multiple gears and even higher gearing. Most racers will start with 44/45:16 then move up when they build their leg muscles to handle the higher ratios, but even then you really need that hole-shot a lot more than you need the higher end speed.
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