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Hill climb Time Trial pacing strategy for short steep hills? There are several hill climb events in my area towards the end of the year, from august onward. Most of the hills are no longer than 0.8km long and well above an average 6% gradient. The main ones I will be targeting are three climbs ranging from: 0.7km, average gradient of 7% (and a max of 14%), personal best is: 2:25 0.5km, average gradient of 10% (and a max of 13.5%), personal best is: 1:51 and finally the local leg breaker (its hardly Colombia where I live I know): 0.8km climb with and average of 13% (and a max of 15%), personal best is: 4:44 If I am warmed up correctly could I race each of these time trials in my respective power ranges of 1 minute (434W) 2 minute (374W) 3 minute (346W) 4 minute (340W) 5 minute (336W) or would I stick to my ftp (220W) for the duration of the climb? Sticking to functional threshold power is my current strategy but found it hard going just because of the steepness of the climbs. <Q> Functional threshold power is defined as the maximum power you can produce for one hour. <S> See for example, this blog . <S> Since you know that your events are much shorter, you don't have to be so conservative. <S> And since you know your output for the approximate times those courses take, you should plan that level of output for the race. <S> Even with that approach different people will have different ideas on whether to go at the same power all the way or keep some in reserve for the steep bits. <S> My thinking is that the slow sections are where you lose time, so keep some power in reserve for the steep parts. <A> These type of short hill climbs are an incredibly hard type of racing. <S> Essentially success comes by enduring the most amount of pain you can suffer before blacking out. <S> If you don't hit your max heart rate by the end you held back too much. <S> On a local stage race, we had short 18 % climb as a single stage! <S> I hit my max heart rate twice in the 1.5 min climb due gradient changes. <S> At the end I felt obliterated and in some ways worse than after how I felt after the road race or criterium. <S> Immediately after crossing the line I wondered if I needed to be inspected by the ambulance staff as I was seriously worried about to dropping dead of a heart attack. <S> Of course I am somewhat embellishing the story (but not that much). <S> The take home is that while pacing and effort strategies remain important, mentally preparing yourself to suffer terribly is probably the most important aspect of this type of event. <A> Depends how you feel on the day, and what's coming up later. <S> Sticking with your FTP may be too conservative to win the day, but if its just one of a series of climbs then working at your FTP may burn you out too soon. <S> Standard advise is to carry all the momentum into the climb that you can, getting you some distance up. <S> Drop gears to keep your cadence up. <S> Then keep working till a third to half-way up the grade. <S> At that point you stock take yourself - decide how much you have left. <S> If the finish is at the top then go for it, but if there's hours more riding after this climb then just maintain. <S> When the top comes in sight, add effort like your mum/SO is watching. <S> You can recover on the downhill. <A> It is an old question, but, one important thing I didn't see mentioned is to actually test the climb to see what gearing you will ride it... <S> Since averages are averages and some parts may be less steep, you could start with big ring and upper cassette gears then drop to small ring for a steeper part. <S> Also, if in small front ring, keeping at least one easier gear to resort to and feel a bit of relief by the end can be mentally refreshing. <S> Your upper body will also play an important part. <S> For pacing itself I would say it is all out, but contrary to what people say I will go really fast from the beginning, because the finish line works as the proverbial carrot, and you will go all out when it is in sight, but if you've been too conservative at the start the all out for the finish may not be enough.
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So, more than pacing I would say that finding your ideal gearing for the climb is the point.
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Will my bike hold my weight? I'm pretty heavy (~150kg/330lbs) but being fond of cycling in the past, I decided to buy a bike, and maybe try to lose a few kilos with it. I didn't have too much time for looking around, so I bought a used (but in excellent shape) Scott Aspect 20 from some guy living close by. Now I'm wondering if the tires/wheels can hold me, and what pressure should I pump the tires to. The rims are Alex TD17 32H and the tires are Schwalbe Hurricane 26x2.0 (2.5-5.0 bar). I'm planning to ride within the city (so mostly paved surfaces, maybe a few unpaved sections here and there). <Q> According to the people at Scott , the general weight limit for a rider is 110 kg. <S> You are significantly above this, so the manufacturer doesn't necessarily support you on that. <S> The wheels durability depends a lot on who built them and how well they were built and if they have taken any damage. <S> You are in a YMMV ( <S> and at your own risk) range by sticking with that bike and wheelset <S> (I'd probably go for more spokes), but you may want to go to a bike shop and get the bike tuned up to make sure the wheels are in good condition and what not, and hope for the best (and do repairs as spokes break and what not, if they do). <S> It helps if you don't ride like a hooligan as well (like not dropping off curbs and what not). <S> I think this is a good article . <S> Trek specifies the max rider weight on most of their bikes to be around 300 lbs, which is probably closer to more comfortable than that. <S> Finally, fit is arguably more important for big riders than small riders. <S> The realistic thing to do (all at your own risk of course) is get the bike checked out to make sure its in good condition, and ride and replace things as they break. <S> Avoid road hazards and be careful. <S> Many bigger riders exceed their quoted weight limits on their bikes, but the factor is usually not around 35-40%. <S> Some other things to consider are recumbent bikes/trikes. <S> These may be a bit more comfortable as well. <S> There are also some manufacturers which build heavier rider-oriented bicycles (e.g. Worksman Cycles , which coincidentally today I found is the oldest bicycle manufacturer in the US, stocks things which can take up to quoted 500 pounds [though, your bike shop probably knows some bikes which have worked for heavy riders in your area]). <A> Offhand, that bike looks pretty good for your needs, aside from the front suspension and the 32H wheels. <S> The tires are good and wide, and if you keep them well inflated ( above 4 bar ) they should handle your weight OK. <S> The front shock has lockout, so if it sags too much you can just keep it locked most of the time. <S> You may find the seat not to your liking, but give it a try, and then shop around for something that looks better. <S> It's not a bike that will last 20 years with a 300lb rider, but you can probably get 2-3 years out of it, by which time you will be down to 80 kg and in the market for a carbon racer. <A> I'm 345lbs, 5'10", 32in inseam <S> (hence why I need a bike, walking on these knees <S> ain't gonna happen, lol). <S> I did research and went with a Specialized Sirrus Elite Alloy which is rated at 300lbs. <S> I keep the air near the 95psi limit and ride only on the streets. <S> No issues after a year so far. <S> It's had one full checkup & adjustment and all was well. <S> Just mentioning this for readers my size that are looking around. <S> The Specialized Rockhopper MTB w/29" wheels is also a good choice and rated 300lbs. <S> If you are big like me, carbon frame is OUT, you need aluminum. <A> I upgrade the old freewheel systems to the newer cassette systems. <S> Even at 185lbs (84 kg) I used to bend rear freewheel axles. <S> Cassette hub design does away with that problem. <S> I break a rear sprocket side spoke every 2 to 3 years using 14 gauge stainless spokes. <S> The gentleman commenting about buying a lighter bicycle not providing the performance gain you wanted is in my experience true. <S> In the 1970's I rode in the Davis, CA, Double Century one day ride <S> and there was a guy riding a stock Schwinn Varsity who rode the ride up near the front all the way to the end. <S> His bike was 10 to 15lbs (4-7 kg) heavier than all the race bikes <S> and I don't recall him wearing cleated shoes either. <S> Wheels should be made with 36 spoke rims and hubs with 13/14 gauge spokes. <S> If they break consider 12 gauge spokes or 40/48 hole hubs. <S> Rims for 40/48 holes are much harder to come by and selection is very limited. <S> Electric bicycle shops deal with 12 gauge spokes and they are not hard to get. <S> 12 gauge spokes do necessitate drilling hub and rim holes a small amount bigger. <S> I've done this in the past and had good results. <S> Be mindful of your front fork when ploughing into potholes and other obstacles. <S> Be careful with the front brake so as not to bend the fork back. <S> Older all steel chromoly MTB's with non suspension steel forks are great frames for heavier riders. <S> Good luck
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You may also want to look at some bike forums for big riders riding similar bikes. Of course, you will be stressing the wheels and tires, in particular, beyond what's "normal", so you may experience broken spokes and the like. But since you won't be going offroad and probably won't jump too many curbs, you shouldn't do too badly. I ride at 275lbs (125 kg) and haven't had problems with good quality older steel frame so called 10 speeds.
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How do you use a power meter to pace yourself during steep hill time trial events? The events in questions are no longer than one kilometer and have a gradient that fluctuates between 7% and 13%. <Q> First thing to do would be to get some data about your max power outputs over different gradients & conditions. <S> So you'll want to know what you can sustain over a 10% 3 km climb, or a 10k climb at 5%. <S> You'll also need to know how this fits into different length rides - you'll be able to output a higher average over 15 km than you would over 30 km. <S> The relationship between power, gradient, cadence, gear and speed is complex. <S> Increasing power will cause your cadence to rise, thus speeding you up. <S> The steeper the gradient, the more resistance there will be, so it'll take more power to remain at a steady cadence (in the same gear). <S> Dividing your power by your weight will give you a watts/kg rating which is useful. <S> Once you know all this data, you'll be able to look at a hill and know that, all else being equal, you'll give your best performance if you maintain, say, 4 w/kg for the climb. <S> You can then use your powermeter output to adjust your effort accordingly. <S> Edit:Mind you, if I understand the event description correctly, I suspect that over that sort of distance you are best off just pushing on the pedals as hard as you can. <A> In your previous question hill climb tt pacing strategy for short steep hills? <S> , I got the idea that you know where the races will be and can practice on those hills. <S> If that's not the case, find some other hills to practice on. <S> Do practice rides with the power meter. <S> Firstly, by using the meter, you will develop more power. <S> If you want something to change then measure it. <S> Make sure you follow a proper training and recovery schedule. <S> Next, you will learn how it feels, at a given power level. <S> And how it feels when you're ready to bonk. <S> Maybe you'll decide you don't like to have the thing telling you what to do, or maybe it will spur you on. <S> But you need to learn to hear what your body is saying; it doesn't always produce the same feelings and performance every day. <S> And finally, do some tests and keep records. <S> No one can definitively tell you the best way for you to race. <S> Only you (or a personal coach) can discover that. <S> And different people are ... different. <S> That's why sport is so unpredictable. <S> constant speed, increasing your power on the steep bits. <S> a combination of those, so that you a maximum power limit for flatter parts, and a target speed for steeper parts. <S> either of those, then flat out at the end. <S> gearing: test which gears <S> give you the best results. <S> As you train, the best gear may change. <S> Choose some different power levels or different speeds and see how you go. <S> What happens if you do the same hill with 5% more power? <S> Does it work, or do you fade out? <S> What happens if you try at one speed, then try 1kph faster? <S> Keep reading the various blogs related to power meters and climbing. <S> Affordable power meters are new and we are still learning how to use them best. <S> Remember that you are your own coach, so set out a training plan for the athlete you are coaching (you). <S> Make sure every session has a goal, and give your athlete some training variation. <S> And then come back to the same test, to see what progress is being made. <S> There are more books and blogs on this topic too :-) <A> I would recommend using your power data to make sure you aren't going too hard out of the gate, like with any time trial. <S> Try to keep your power in the Threshold-VO2 max range, with a high cadence, until you're within striking distance and then drop the hammer to the finish line. <S> More on determining power levels here. <S> This assumes you know how long you can hold a sustained AC level (aerobic capacity) effort. <S> I would try to pace it so that you are ramping up your power into the finish, not a big burst at 200 meters out and then a gradual taper in. <S> It really depends on the character of the climbs, I think some pre-riding of the course would be as, if not more, beneficial than power data for such short efforts.
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Tests you might try are variations of constant power, matching your power to the expected duration of the climb.
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Hydraulic Disk brake piston not fully retracting My front disk brake's piston doesn't fully retract. While I can ride the bike, the brake is slightly rubbing. (IE, if I just spin the wheel with my hand, it'll go around about one and a half times and then stop.) It's definitely slowing me down. If this fixable? The advice I got was that it's not worth the trouble and to buy a replacement set. The current brakes are Avid Juicy 7s that are about 7 years old <Q> I would try repairing them before binning them and purchasing the Shimano upgrade. <S> If there is no obvious fluid leak around the piston the seals are likely in good order and you've got a sticky piston rather than a failed calliper. <S> This is a simple fix: Remove wheel and brake pads. <S> Using a flat headed item hold the working piston in. <S> Squeeze the lever, the non-retracting piston should be fully out. <S> While holding the lever wipe around the piston with a clean lint free cloth. <S> Release the lever and repeat lubricating 5 more times, the piston should now be retracting. <S> Wipe off any residual brake fluid from the caliper. <S> Use a brake block to push both pistons evenly back into the caliper. <S> Pull the lever with the block in to align. <S> Refit the pads and wheel. <S> Realign <S> the caliper. <S> It's hard to separate pads and near impossible to separate pistons without bleeding. <S> Juicy 7s were good brakes, if they aren't broken there's no point rushing out to replace them. <A> If the steps suggested by @DWGKNZ don't work you should consider taking it apart and inspect the Piston seals. <S> Over time the piston seals can dry up and get gummed up with a little dirt and what looks like limestone. <S> Overhauling most hydraulic brake systems is doable by the home mechanic and Avid sells a parts kit for the Juicy 7's. <S> After I rebuilt mine I noticed the pistons still didn't retract evenly. <S> One side would move more then the other. <S> The reason for this is the friction between the piston and the piston seal. <S> Dot fluid will help lubricate the retraction movement but that alone may not be enough. <S> Ideally as part of the overhaul you should use some form of silicon grease. <S> Avid sells a compound called DOT GREASE that is specifically designed for piston seals and O rings. <S> You also need a bleed kit if your are going to rebuild. <S> Take the pads off and clean the area with brake cleaner. <S> Pump the lever to push the pistons out a 4-5 mm and dab dot grease around the piston edge with a cotton wool bud or very small paint brush. <S> Push the piston back in and repeat the process a few times, forcing the grease into the piston seal surface. <S> Eventually it should be nicely lubricated and pistons should retract quickly and evenly. <S> Obviously it would be easier to just buy a new set of brakes <S> but I personally learned a great deal by doing it myself and found the whole process very rewarding when you finally fix it. <A> Your brakes are of a good brand. <S> Hopefully this link should help you.
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Still holding lever lubricate the retracting bit of the piston with a bit of brake fluid (DOT 4 or 5.1, not oil, as this may damage the seals and/or might work through the seals and mix with the brake fluid) You should try bleeding the brakes first before binning them and buying new ones. Please note, never pull the lever when there's nothing in between the two pistons.
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Fork shakes on braking I reanimated an old city bike. The front brakes work fine but the brakes squeaks. So I cleaned the rim and brakes, now the fork shakes on braking. What is wrong and how can I fix this?Change the brake pads? <Q> What did you clean the pads with? <S> The angle of the pads also matters. <S> You should toe them in so that the front edge hits first, to minimize squeaking. <S> Another potential problem is a loose headset (as mentioned by a commentor). <S> Grab your stem in one hand and fork in the other. <S> See if there is play by shaking back and forth. <S> If you feel something loose, you may need to adjust your headset. <S> Note that usually pads need some time to wear in, and match the rim. <S> Until this happens, you will probably experience sub-optimal braking. <A> Usually you can get around this by adjusting the toe-in of the brake pads - http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/cantilever-brake-service .If <S> that fails, you can swap in higher quality pads. <S> Usually this works for even cheap brakes and forks. <A> I had a similar problem that was ultimately down to excessively worn bearings in the front wheel. <S> I'd tightened them previously but they were beyond their usable life <S> and so there was movement side to side in the wheel hub. <S> Once the wheel was replaced the problem was eradicated. <S> Check the wheels for any side to side movement and tighten accordingly,
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One more possible reason for your issue is that your pads have not been tightened enough. if like me this is no longer possible then look at getting a replacement wheel or rebuilding your existing one with a new hub. If there is residue left on them, this can cause the stuttering that you speak of.
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ANT+ to Bluetooth Low Energy bridge? Does anyone know of a stand alone ANT+ to Bluetooth Low Energy (BTLE) bridge device? I have a Garmin Edge 810, which uses ANT+ ... but I would also like to track my rides on my iPhone 5S (which has BTLE, but ANT+ is a hassle). I'm looking for a device that will correctly bridge ANT+ to BTLE so the iPhone will pick up the data as well as my 810. I specifically want the bridge to work with a HRM, speed/cadence sensor (combo, like Garmin GSC10), and separate speed & cadence sensors. I've tried the 4iiii Viiiva, but it doesn't work properly due to a proprietary protocol (or just lack of adoption by the app developers). I had high hopes for this device, but it can't provide accurate data (yet). http://www.geekyramblings.net/2013/12/03/viiiiva-hrm/ I know about the Wahoo RFLKT, but I don't need the display and would prefer something cheaper that I can stuff in my jersey pocket or seat bag. I need something that will handle multiple devices at the same time without dropouts. Update 9/29: The manual upload issue is kind of moot now, as Garmin connect can now upload my rides to Strava automatically. I can now turn on BT at the end of my ride and the 810 will upload the ride to Garmin Connect and Garmin uploads to Strava. The live tracking was never a critical function. I'd still like to get some kind of bridge so I can use my ANT+ accessories on the bike when using a trainer and an iPad trainer app without having to use the Wahoo ANT adapter. I'll probably be upgrading to a lightning based iPad and I've heard the 30 pin adapter for lightning devices tends to be iffy. <Q> The Wahoo RFLKT+ is the only device on the market as far as I am aware (and I have looked). <A> A year ago I did some work investigating ANT+ and BLTE protocols during development of a mobile fitness application. <S> The details are a bit fuzzy, but if I recall correctly, this cannot be a simple conduit that listens for ANT+ radio signals and translates to BLTE signals. <S> The security, message structure, communication style, registration protocol, etc. are all different. <S> Such a device would most likely require some specific device to application translator, too (e.g. ANT+ power meter to BLTE readable by mobile app). <S> I think there may also be some intellectual property or licensing issues that could get in the way of a commercial product. <S> I seem to recall the ANT+ people not being too happy about BLTE when I spoke with someone from their ORG at CES '13. <S> Sorry <S> I'm unable to dig in deeper, but I think a number of technical and business factors stand in the way of a commercially available generic ANT/BLTE gateway device in the near future or perhaps never. <A> I think that what you are looking for is ANT+ sensor for you iPhone. <S> Unforunately this is also problematic; there are some products on marcet <S> but they all are using "old" 30-pin iPhone connector. <S> So you would need a 30-pin-to-lightning adatper like this . <S> Or you could just wait for lightning <S> ANT+ sensor :/
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As a BTLE user I can tell you you're better off with ANT+; I get far more sensor drops than my ANT+ co-riders.
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"Creaking" noise from headtube/handlebar I have a steel frame (Columbus steel, made by Dancelli), and when I put weight on the ends of the handle bar, I hear a creaking noise from the headtube. It might not be the handlebar because I tried applying force on the headtube while holding the top tube and I heard the same creaking noise. I can't pinpoint where the noise is coming from ... is there a way to find that out and fix it? Many thanks! <Q> The tube was glued to the bar, and eventually some of the glue would fail, allowing the two to move relative to each other as you rode and the bar flexed. <S> In very rare cases the bar would actually slip within the tube, but in most cases the sound was harmless and would eventually go away -- appearing after a few months of use and then disappearing after a year or two. <S> Tightening the bar clamp usually did not help. <S> Bars without the reenforcing tube, of course, did not exhibit this behavior. <S> One would also occasionally get creaking of the stem within the steering tube. <S> Also harmless, and usually quieted by slightly tightening the stem bolt. <S> I've never studied a threadless headset real closely, but presumably, given the number of individual components, there are all sorts of things that can slip slightly relative to each other as things flex. <A> Since sound comes from critical area, where some of the failures might result in loss of teeth or worse, I would suggest through approach. <A> Pull out the stem and remove the bar. <S> Clean the contact surfaces. <S> Grease them with cycle grease and put everything back in place. <S> Don't forget to put grease on the threads of the bolts. <S> Tighten with the required torque. <A> After disassembling the front assembly, as per Carel's and Davorin Ruševljan's suggestions, I found out that the fork tube (going through the headtube) had a crack in it, which is most probably what was making the creaking noise (see picture below). <A> In the past I've eliminated sounds such as creaking and popping up front by correctly torquing the stem and handlebar bolts. <S> I guess the bolts were tightened inconsistently and the cause for the noise. <A> This guide from Sheldon Brown may be of use.
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With the old style headsets this symptom was generally due to the handlebar slipping slightly inside the reenforcing tube that surrounds the center on most bars. After eliminating simpler problems like skewers and bolts not tight enough (too much), or bearing issues, I would suggest disassembling whole stem/headset/fork assembly and carefully inspecting it in detail with magnifying glass for dentures, cracks, or anything out of ordinary. I'd start with checking out the headset to make sure its tightened down appropriately. It is quite hard to locate origin of sound like that.
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How to choose protective cycling gloves? Yesterday I failed to make a turn and rode into a thorny bush, which cut my hands. I have often feared similar situations. For example, when descending, I often need to take a difficult line, in order to evade some hanging vegetation in one half of the fire road. I fear that a wound on the wrist at high speed can make me lose control. So I am looking for some kind of protective gloves. I do not need any padding on the inside . Rather, I am looking for: Cut resistance. To resist thorns on the trail and cuts from sharp rock, should I find myself on the ground. Breathability. Riding for 10 hours in the sun is already exhausting, the gloves should not wick sweat and become wet rags. Does such a product exist? What features and marketing slang to look for when purchasing? <Q> Look at Downhill MTB gloves, they are meant for folks who are likely to crash in the brush and often have padding on fronts of fingers and knuckles and leather palm protection. <A> I have had a two types of gloves by a motorcycling accessory maker. <S> They tend to be sturdier, but also a bit heavier. <S> I don't complain about weight, just acknowledge it. <S> They are so rugged that they last "forever", so I end up re-purposing them as work gloves when they get aesthetically unbearable for public display. <S> Often these gloves have reinforcement and protection for the fingers in the form of rubber or foam-like inserts on top of the finger and knuckles. <S> The fabric normally is very resistant and in my case has proven to be resistant to cuts from sharp rocks and in some circumstances even thorn proof. <S> I think the gloves I've chosen are intended for Motocross or Enduro, but there are some "lighter" options in some stores. <S> The only downsides I have found is that with thicker fabric, the glove takes forever to dry (if you get them soaked in a pond of heavy rain). <S> The padding absorbs water so they also get heavier in case of soaking. <S> Also, after washing the glove tends to get stiff, but you solve it by using a small amount of fabric softener or "massaging" the glove before using. <A> I use mechanics gloves purchased at the hardware store. <S> Mine are unpadded leather (goatskin) and have saved my hands from several crashes that otherwise would have caused nasty abrasions, judging by the damage to the gloves. " <S> Mechanix" and "Grease Monkey" brand gloves are usually what I see on the hands of local mountain bikers. <A> I looked into DH gloves, but was disappointed, that the only locally available model has non-breathable fabric. <S> Then, I got the Endura MT500. <S> Those things are quite pricy . <S> However, they offer: excellent breathability for the summer heat <S> I haven't tried the rubber locations, but the fabric holds well against bushes and tree branches (my original intent) excellent grip a fast-drying location to wipe off sweat <S> I was actually so fascinated, that I went on to purchase other items <S> form the same product line.
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Recently in my country the only DH gloves that the shops are selling are made of skinny fabric with no padding, so I've turned my head towards motorcycling gear.
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What should I look for when buying a bike from an auction? I'm going to an auction to look for cheap gems. Each bike is shown only very briefly and the bidding starts immediately. No hands-on inspection is allowed. What should I pay attention to when trying to decide how much / if to bid? Are there some immediate signs that I should look for that either hint to the high or low quality of a bicycle? I don't know brands very well and the brands here in Finland might be different from other countries. However, brands I should look for or avoid are welcome, but any other more general external indicators for quality would be better. I know this is similar to What should I look for when buying a used bicycle? but I think the situation is different enough to merit a separate question. <Q> Just like with any other area of expertise, there is no substitute for years of experience. <S> If you need a simple heuristic though, brand recognition in combination with a general knowledge of groupsets and their quality can go a long way. <S> At the very least, know how to tell forged components from stamped. <S> Learn Shimano's and Suntour's groupset lineups. <S> Groupsets are generally a good indication for the overall quality of the bike. <S> Know about the different qualities of steel <S> (hi10 < 4130 chromoly < branded {reynolds, columbus}). <S> Learn about the qualities of good steel lugs (some framesets are worth money that won't have any parts on them). <S> Back all this up with a smartphone <S> and you should be good. <A> Two sites to look at are Bicycle Blue Book and Bikepedia . <S> This probably helps you avoid having to look at the individual component specs since most of the time if a part is replaced, it is replaced with something at least as good as the original equipment (you may not be able to see what components are on the bike to begin with). <S> In general its a pretty hard problem (which you really need experience), and in an auction situation, the best thing to do would be to bring along a friend who knows a lot about bikes to tell you what to bid, and then buy them a beer afterwards. <A> From what you have said be prepared to end up with a dud. <S> It's not easy for a novice to tell the difference in quality, and impossible to tell the condition of the drive train without close inspection, even for an expert. <S> Obviously look at the condition. <S> Tires with mold tags still on them are a likely sign of a low mileage bike. <S> Learn the local brands, especially avoid the cheap chain store brands. <S> If MTB, learn front shock models from Fox and Rock Shocks. <S> These are the best place to look for a guide to quality. <S> Anything from SRAM is OK, anything from Shimano with a name on it is likely to be OK. <S> No name or model - don't touch it.
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But a quality bike with few miles will be a better bet than a low quality bike in new/shiny condition. You will most likely see Shimano and SRAM gear. Since we live in the advent of the smartphone, you can likely look at the brand and model of a bike and quickly google it. Learn the rear derailleur models for the type of bike you are interested in.
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Should I not use a trail because of poor conditions? I spoke with someone and they said they were staying off certain trails because snow melt and mud would ruin the trails. I had never thought of this and really want to be considerate. Is this a valid concern? Should I avoid a trail because of this? How do I know when it is ok to use? <Q> Riding on a muddy trail makes ruts which make the trail conditions worse for everyone once the mud dries and the ground hardens. <S> In addition to ruts, if the trail is muddy and you slide out a front wheel going around a turn, for example, your wheel can scrape several inches of trail off. <S> This can cause erosion problems later on. <S> However, as alluded to earlier, if the trail is a known mudbog and stays muddy year-round, one more rut probably won't hurt anything. <S> Another common counterexample is when the trail is melting in the afternoons but can be ridden early in the day when the ground is frozen. <S> If you're crazy enough to be out riding then, more power to you. <S> But generally speaking, it is in good taste to stay off melting, muddy trails. <S> Any time your presence can alter the trail physically (ruts, slide-offs, feature damage), everyone else who shares the trail with you will be glad you stayed off. <A> As Alesplin puts it, it is common practice to stay off of trails that are muddy. <S> I'd like to expand on his answer a little. <S> I think there are a few factors that come into play with a question like this. <S> One of the biggest contributors of damage to a muddy trail is large amounts of traffic. <S> The more people that use the trail, the more damage will be done. <S> If you are one of a few people to use a trail, you most likely won't do any permanent damage. <S> The worst thing you will do is create ruts, that when dry are not the nicest things to ride on/in. <S> Ruts can also lead to other forms of damage. <S> A rut will collect water, which will not run off the trail. <S> Quite often, these puddles of water will get bigger and bigger until they consume the width of the trail. <S> This, I think, is when the real damage occurs. <S> Trail users (both rides and hikers) will most often avoid going through the standing water and simply go around (at the cost of the surrounding vegetation). <S> This can lead to parts of the trail being expanded unnecessarily, and there will still be the problem of the expanding rutted water hole in the middle of the trail. <S> In the end, if the trail is used very lightly, riding in the mud will not do much damage at all. <S> For most trails though, it is best to avoid the muddy ones. <S> Of course, there are always sections of trail that are muddy, no matter what. <S> Those are a whole other matter of how to properly build and route a trail. <S> Get dirty and have fun. <A> The issue is not just muddiness and ruts. <S> Activities like biking and hiking promote soil erosion (and soil is much more susceptible where erosion already has taken place). <S> We try to strike a balance between preserving the condition of the trail and enjoying our activities. <S> If the ground is very wet, the damage caused by our use is much greater, since we move more material around including whatever plants are helping to reinforce the soil (roots act like the rebar in concrete). <S> The damage caused in one trailride could be greater than several years of use in decent conditions. <S> Even under normal use, trails need to be reconstructed and/or moved from time to time to allow the land to "heal". <S> I'm grateful for the volunteers that work to maintain the trails where I ride <S> (Thank you, Waterloo Cycling Club!)In short, thank you for your desire to be courteous and thoughtful, and please save your riding until the trail has dried up. <A> IMBA wrote a great article summarizing the various studies of mountain biking's impact on trails. <S> Their conclusion was as follows: <S> Furthermore, while the impact mechanics and forces may be different from foot traffic, mountain biking impacts are little different from hiking, the most common and traditional form of trail-based recreational activity. <S> [...] <S> So what does this mean for mountain biking? <S> The existing body of research does not support the prohibition or restriction of mountain biking from a resource or environmental protection perspective. <S> Existing impacts, which may be in evidence on many trails used by mountain bikers, are likely associated for the most part with poor trail designs or insufficient maintenance. <S> Managers should look first to correcting design-related deficiencies before considering restrictions on low-impact users. <S> By enlisting the aid of all trail users through permanent volunteer trail maintenance efforts, they can improve trail conditions and allow for sustainable recreation. <S> In other words, current studies show that mountain bikers do no more harm than hikers and that muddy trails are a product of bad trail building and management, and not from mountain bikers riding them. <S> The problem here is more with perception I believe, as some small groups of extremely reactionary hikers usually wants to ban everything that is not hikers from venturing into the great outdoors. <S> If they can keep mountain bikers off the trails by saying that they damage them, they suddenly have a great argument for doing so. <S> And if we as mountain bikers accept this as a fact and the way that it should be, then we are suddenly at the mercy of the hikers, and this would be very unfortunate for mountain biking as a recreational activity. <S> So instead of staying of the trail you should help doing maintenance on them so that problems such as mud and erosion are lessened and the trails become more pleasant for everyone who uses them.
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It's common etiquette, at least everywhere I've been, to stay away from wet and muddy trails (unless they're supposed to be or always are a mudfest).
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What do I need to know about fitting new wheels on a bike? My girlfriend has had the wheels stolen from her bike. I'd like to replace them, but we're working with a limited budget so I'm going to do the work myself and source the parts second hand. I've done a basic bike maintenance course but beyond that I'm relatively clueless. I know that the new wheels need to be 700C's, and that the new rear gear cassette needs to be 7-speed (I guess because that's what the gear shifters are) but I have the following questions: Will any 700C wheel work with any gear cassette? From browsing eBay it seems that some of the wheels are specified as working with 7-speed or 8-speed cassettes? The first question aside, will any cassette screw on to the mounting on the wheel I buy, or are there different threads? Should I buy a free wheel or a cassette? I'm not even sure what the difference is! <Q> There are a number of factors to consider when buying a new wheel set: Wheel size, there are many different wheel sizes to choose from, modern road bikes are generally 700c and mountain bikes 26, 27.5 or 29inch. <S> There's also a number of legacy, children's and specialty sizes. <S> Rim width, rim width determines how wide a tire you can run and is determined by seat stay and chain stay clearance. <S> If you have a road bike you may be able to fit wider cross tires if you were so inclined. <S> Front widths on mountain bikes are either 100 or 110. <S> There are 7, 8/9/10 and 11 speed free hubs. <S> A 7 speed cassette will fit an 8 speed hub with a spacer. <S> Cassette type, shimano and sram require a compatible hub, campy requires a different compatible hub. <S> Brake type, rim brakes need a specific rim, disc brakes and coaster brakes require a specific hub. <S> Axle diameter, on Mountain bikes there's 9mm QR and 15mm and 20mm thru axle on the front and 10mm QR, <S> 10mm bolt up or 12mm thru axle on the rear. <S> Everything thing else such as material, number of spokes or valve type is user preference. <A> Will any 700C wheel work with any gear cassette? <S> No, it depends on what size free hub is on the wheel. <S> I believe there is also variations in hub spacing too. <S> It could be between 126mm and 135mm. <S> From browsing eBay <S> it seems that some of the wheels are specified as working with 7-speed or 8-speed cassettes? <S> That is because the free hub installed will allow those size cassettes. <S> will any cassette screw on to the mounting on the wheel I buy, or are there different threads? <S> Cassettes don't screw on unless you are using a free wheel, they have splines and a lock ring. <S> Yes, there are some differences. <S> Most likely it is Shimano Hyperglide, the wheel manufacturer will probably state this. <S> Sometimes, they don't though, which makes it fun. <S> Should I buy a free wheel or a cassette? <S> You will want to buy a 7 speed cassette, because your shifter only supports that. <S> See this related question . <A> The number of cogs per cassette will depend on hub compatibility. <S> (largest cog closest to the wheel spoke) there's many ratios you can choose from depending on ride style. <S> If you go anywhere larger than 28, you may need a midsize derailleur ... <S> all this will determine your chain length too. <S> If you swap a low speed cassette for higher gears, then you probably can't use same chain as it will be too tight or too loose. <S> Just something to keep in mind :)
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Cassette size, you need a hub (unless using a free wheel) that is spaced for the cassette you'll be using. Axle width, the width of the rear drop outs, generally 135mm on road bikes but older bikes may be less, 135 or 142 for mountain bikes. If you have 8 cogs (8 speed) you also have to make sure what ratio you want, the smallest being 11 up to 32
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How to protect rear derailleur while mountain biking? I am a college students, and I live right next to an amazing rocky area (picture below), I bike every day, and while I am getting much better and more confident I still take a pretty hard fall every so often. My derailleur has been crushed so many times, and I have been forced to literally pull on it to bend it back into shape on more than one occasion. I am hoping to replace the derailleur soon, but I would like to know if there is a good way to protect the derailleur during a fall - this will decide how much I spend on a new one! This is the stuff that is crushing my derailleur every time I fall. <Q> They make bash guards for derailleurs which mount to the frame which protect a derailleur in a crash like <S> but these are dangerous in that they transmit a hit to the derailleur to the frame (and frame damage is typically less repairable/ more expensive than a derailleur damage). <S> Usually, what gets damaged in a crash is the derailleur hanger, which can be bent back into shape with a special tool at your bike shop (Park Tool DAG-2 for example). <S> You should never pull the derailleur into shape by the cage (this is the weakest part of the derailleur and can damage it more). <S> On non-steel bikes, this is often a little replaceable part which is designed to deform in a crash so hopefully your derailleur makes it out alright as does your frame <S> (so if you can't bend it back into shape, you can replace it). <S> The best thing to do is "don't fall". <S> But obviously, compatibility within brands and budget dictate what to buy. <S> I'm curious as to how the derailleur is "bent", and how you're straightening it though. <S> It would be good if you updated your question with a diagram or picture of your "bent derailleur", along with the type of bike you're riding. <A> The derailleur is, unfortunately, one of those critical parts that is very hard to protect from damage; without sacrificing another part. <S> As he pointed out though, these types of products might protect the derailleur to some degree, but you risk transferring those damaging forces to the frame in a crash. <S> Besides that, a derailleur is constantly moving and is very exposed to anything that might knock, touch or grab it. <S> There really isn't a whole lot you can do. <S> It is easier said than done, but try not to fall as much. <S> Pick your lines carefully through rocks and keep an eye out for anything that will snag it. <S> If you lay your bike down on the ground, always make sure to lay it with the brakes facing the ground, in order to not put the weight of the bike on the derailleur. <S> One thing that I must ask, is if your derailleur has been damaged multiple times; during any of those incidents, did your derailleur hanger suffer damage? <S> If the hanger has not ever been bent or snapped, maybe it is too stiff/strong and not taking any of damaging forces. <S> I have always had bad luck with very soft hangers that snap prematurely. <S> Try to find a lower quality one and use that. <S> Maybe next time the hanger will bend instead of your derailleur. <S> It will bend under pressure that much easier each further time it is put under stress. <S> Parts get fatigued and sometimes must be replaced, even if they still appear to be semi-functioning. <S> Sometimes it just comes down to luck at the time of an incident. <S> Sometimes you take a spill and come out of it with zero broken parts. <S> Other times, you can be looking at major damage to something (even from the most innocent of crashes). <A> Go Singlespeed or use an Internally geared hub to avoid the problem entirely. <S> May need an eccentric bottom bracket or a bike with horizontal dropouts to pull this off without adding dangly bits like a chain tensioner. <S> However, chain tensioner a tend to sit a bit further out of the way and are less likely to be damaged.
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Another thing that should be mentioned that every time you bend the derailleur back into its correct position, it gets a little weaker. Typically the Shimano Deore level is what gives you the best hit taking ability for the price, though it depends on how you fall and how the derailleur gets hit and stuff. As Batman pointed out, you can purchase small hoops that attach to your frame and offer some protection.
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Has a bike been made with a rear derailleur above the chainstays? The question title pretty much sums it up, but has a bike with an alternate drivetrain style like this been made? This would mean a derailleur mounted essentially upside down with the tension pushing the chain upward. I could see where this would protect the derailleur and keep the chain out of the way from dust and debris more. However, I could also envision some issues with front shifting due the the chain coming up from the front chain ring as well. Pictures would be much appreciated! <Q> The tension pulley needs to go on the slack side of the chain - which again means it goes on the bottom (the top side of the chain loop has the drive tension). <S> If the drive train was reversed, you could do it. <S> Put the drive wheel in front and steer with your butt - like this . <S> US Patent 6588786 has what you've described . <S> Bonus: <S> you don't have to steer with your butt <S> - cables link the handle bars to the forks. <S> I found this while googling for 'front drive bicycle'. <S> Here's another configuration: <A> This would never work due to fact that no force would be transmitted to the rear wheel until the derailleur cage was at maximum extension. <S> The derailleur has to be below the chainstay to allow it to take up the slack in the chain. <S> I suppose you could split the derailleur into to parts, one to keep the chain tension and the other to change gears, but that seems excessively complex. <S> The real solution to the derailleur problem is an internally geared hub. <A> Actually there is one such solution from Campagnolo which did not really stick: <S> The general idea was to skip tensor altogether, and recompense change in chain length (distance it travels) by moving sprocket (whole wheel) back and forward. <S> The main disadvantage of such approach was reduced number of speeds you can have in our bike; mainly by disallowing you to have front gear changer. <S> That wasn't too big problem on some races, just like Paris-Roubaix classic, but still lack of freedom was with speed selection (bracket size needed to correspond to distance by which wheel was moved) and wheel changing during race.
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The derailleur needs to guide the chain into the sprocket - which means it goes on the bottom.
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What is the best way to stop and restart at a stoplight? Since your feet should hardly touch the ground when the saddle is at optimal height, what is the best approach to stopping at a stoplight and then quickly re-starting when riding in traffic. <Q> These are the options I use depending on the circumstances: <S> Trackstand <S> : Requires a lot of practice and it is a bit of a swhowoff. <S> (This is the one I use the less) <S> Partially Dismount: <S> Preferred when riding cleated pedals. <S> Dominant foot stays on the pedal, and the pedal is kept ready for a full stroke (at 45 degrees over the horizontal as the other answer says). <S> The other foot goes to the pavement. <S> Preferred on busy crossings or when I have to use a lane not next to the curb. <S> Right foot on the curb <S> : My Right foot is the dominant one, but when I get to stop besides a curb, the fact that I remain in the saddle almost makes up for having to take the first stroke with the left. <S> Use your hands: When there is a light pole or a suitable road sign, I keep mounted (and cleated) and use my hand to keep balance. <S> Sometimes I can even put the shoulder against a pole or wall or the end of the handlebar. <S> This one lets me re start fully engaged to pedals. <A> Since I exclusively ride cleated pedals, what I always do whenever I need to come to a full stop is to shift to a low enough gear (on flats I'd shift to 34/21 or 34/23 -- I have a 'compact', ie. <S> 50/34 crank), unclip my left foot, brake, then as I come to a stop, I shift my body towards the top tube and stand over it with my left foot on the ground. <S> Usually when I put my foot down the bike would still be moving very slowly, but friction between the cleat and tarmac and/or a touch of the brake would stop me immediately. <S> When I need to move again, I'd take the right crank arm to the 2 or 3 o'clock position, give the bike a forward push with my unclipped (left) foot while my clipped (right) foot simultaneously pedals. <S> And as my right crank arm reaches the 6 o'clock position, I'd lift my left foot off the ground, move my butt from over the top tube to the saddle, clip my left foot back in, and continue riding. <A> If you can't time it <S> so you don't actually get caught at the light, you pretty much just have to dismount. <S> As Daniel R Hicks mentioned, you can use a curb if one's available, but that's not always the case. <S> And on a personal note, my strong leg is my right leg and since I live in America, the curbs are on the right, which makes that method less appealing to me. <S> If you set your pedals properly, dismounting can actually help you accelerate more quickly when you get going. <S> This allows you to get a full stroke right off the bat. <S> It takes a bit of practice and familiarity with your bike to know what gear that is, but it comes pretty naturally over time. <A> Well, you can't get around losing some/most of your momentum at a red light but if you do it clever, you can play with the timing of the lights and decrease your speed in such a way, that you won't have to stop completely. <S> If you're very familiar with who gets green after whom, you can plan even better. <S> Good practice is also to not put the feet down but balance or trackstand. <S> That way, you can keep your feet ready on the pedals. <S> You can position yourself a bit behind the stop line (if possible) and take off on mid-orange, so you're already going when you pass the line at green. <S> The accelerating is common technique and power workout. <S> Keep your strong (first pushing) foot at 3 o'clock, don't lose time with a lazy second foot. <S> Start in an appropriate gear (depending on road gradient and bike specs) and work on the perfect shifting time. <S> Doing the shifts quickly will save you some more time. <S> And then: full thrust!
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If you're riding a geared bike, it's also a good idea to shift into the appropriate gear before you actually come to a stop. Set the pedal for your stronger leg a bit less than 45 degrees from vertical. When the light turns green, all you have to do is stand up, which puts your full weight on the pedal, and you're off.
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Do I have too much chafer strip showing after fixing a puncture? I have had two innertubes explode on me on my bicycle, on the same wheel and tire. The first time I was inflating my inner tube after aquiring a puncture. On this occassion I was pumping my tires (rated at 50-90psi) beyond 70psi. After the first explosion I replaced the innertube, being careful to avoid pinching. I pumped up to 60psi. A few days later the inner tube exploded while the bike was hanging on it's rack. After becoming the recipient of yet another puncture on the same tire (city streets...), I am wary of my inner tube installation. This time I inserted the inner tube under the tire, moved the tire beed back to the inner rim, and carefully checked to ensure that no pinching occurred. I have now inflated the tire to 60psi. My concern is that, despite being very careful, I have sections where beed appears to be showing. My question is, given the amount of bead showing (about 2mm in one section), could the inflation cause another inner tube burst? <Q> The visible strip sticking out from the top of the rim and inside the line is in fact the Chafer strip. <S> This is on the tire to prevent the bead hook on the rim from cutting into the tire. <S> The bead is the wire or in the case of folding tire such as the x'plor ush Kevlar ring on the edge of each tire. <S> When seating the tire the bead is place inside the bead hook on the rim with a tube inside. <S> Rims have a few different standards and many proprietary designs so do not have a consistent inner sidewall height. <S> The tire bead when seated actually sits at the bottom of the rim rather than on the hook, so the amount of Chafer strip shown is dependent on the depth of the rim. <S> but my thought would be something loose in the tire. <A> Based on your edit, do this. <S> Remove the wheel, deflate to about 10 PSI, then roll it along the ground, pressing down hard, for several revolutions. <S> After you've done this examine the strip. <S> Anywhere where the strip is showing too much, first examine the opposite side of the tire at that (ie, the left side of the tire if the problem's on the right). <S> If the strip is not showing as much on that side, tug it out a bit. <S> If the strip is showing too much on both sides try to work it inward (tug out other places where it's too close). <S> You may find that the tire sits too high near the valve. <S> This is often due to the thick portion of the tube near the valve being caught between the bead and the rim. <S> In that case, push the valve into the tire (remove the nut if there is one) and try to rock the tire back and forth to get the tube in the right place. <S> You may find a spot where the tire sits too low. <S> This can be due to having twisted the tube while installing it. <S> And, of course, if you have a blowout on a tire, always examine it for actual holes that will let the tube "balloon" through. <S> Small ones can be fixed, at least temporarily, with a "boot". <S> Bigger ones (larger than about 1/4") would require the tire to be immediately replaced. <S> And, since you don't say what size this is, remember that not all 26" tires have the same rim diameter. <S> Make sure that the metric diameter on your tire matches the metric diameter of the rim. <S> Also , when installing a tube the way to do it is to first inflate the tube just enough so that it rounds out and limply <S> holds its shape. <S> Then work the valve into the valve hole and tuck the tube into place. <S> This is easier than inserting while completely flat, and it helps assure that the tube is not twisted or caught between tire and rim. <A> As far as I know, the line that you are seeing is indeed an indicator if the tire is properly installed. <S> It doesn't matter how much it is showing. <S> If the indicator is showing too much somewhere, it will be hidden under the rim on the opposite side of the rim (opposite passing through the diameter). <S> This would be an indication that the tire is seated in a wrong way and may: fall out under pressure when cornering give a rough ride. <S> Or I think <S> this is how things are supposed to work.
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Once you've got the tire relatively well centered, inflate in increments of 20 pounds or so, roll along the ground, and inspect/align again, until you reach your desired pressure. Anywhere where the strip is not showing the "average" amount, tug on the tire to pull it out. The amount of Chafer strip showing would not be a cause of your tube exploding and there are many answers that address punctures What is important is that it is visible.
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Why doesn't Shimano use shadow technology on road derailleurs? Shimano has been using their 'Shadow' technology on their high-end mountain bike rear derailleurs (> Deore) for many years. In addition to the benefit described in the images below (from here ), Shadow derailleurs have a more direct housing routing near the derailleur, which results in a lot less cable friction, and therefore, better and smoother shifting. Why doesn't Shimano use this technology on their road rear derailleurs? Interestingly enough, SRAM also went out of their way to avoid direct housing routing near the rear derailleur when they came out with their road derailleur, even though they'd been using direct routing for many years on their mountain bike derailleurs. <Q> Simple answer would be that it's heavier, which is very important in road-bikes. <S> Regarding the cable friction and smoother shifting, road shifters are going towards electronics <A> a) profile reduction is more or less irrelevant to road bikes. <S> b) <S> It might be more expensive to produce dérailleurs in that configuration too. <S> c) <S> (tinfoil hat mode <S> ) they deliberately want to keep shifting on their cabled road dérailleurs poor so as to boost sales of di2 <A> In 2017 Shimano has now introduced its Shadow technology on road derailleurs for its Dura-Ace and Ultegra newest rear derailleurs R9150, R9100 and R8000 models. <A> Key words rough terrain here. <S> Further, the friction clutch adds a damper to the mass (chain, bouncing) and the spring (twist of the derailleur cage). <A> It solves problems which simply don't exist on the road. <S> Making the design change would require a significant investment and Shimano is already moving their upper tier road groups to electronic shifting which makes the whole cable friction aspect a non-issue. <S> I do wish they'd put out a STI lever with the appropriate cable pull for Shadow. <S> Would be great for cyclocross and also for drop bar MTBs <S> (drop bars on MTBs are pretty awesome for all but the most technical of terrain!)
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the cost of retooling all their road bike dérailleur manufacturing to get a very marginal gain in reduced cable friction probably makes it not worth it. The whole purpose of the shadow tech is to reduce chain slap, which isnt a problem for pavement road racing. The benefit of the Shadow Plus friction clutch is that rough terrain doesn't allow the chain to pull against the rear derailleur cage spring, so the chain stays taught and in control.
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Will These Bike Racks Fit a 2002 Citroen Berlingo? Could someone please advise me as to whether either (or both!) of the following bike racks will fit on the back of a 2002 Citroen Berlingo? 3 Carrier with Clips 2 Carrier without Clips Please note: these are links to eBay (UK) listings - I realise that this is irregular, but I couldn't actually find the manufacturer's website for them! They are both strap-mounted, not tow-bar mounted; I do not have a tow-bar. Please note that it is a van and so has a vertical rear, not like a saloon/hatchback/estate, but to a smaller degree with an estate. I am looking to mount a road/racing bike and a mountain bike on it. I would prefer the 3 Carrier with clips, since, well, it holds three and has clips (!), but if it doesn't fit and the other one does, then the other one will do fine. :) Thanks in advance! :) <Q> This puts weight further behind the rear wheels affecting handling. <S> I used a Rhode version of these regularly, but when I need to carry 3 or more bikes I use my old 4x4 (Isuzu Bighorn, Opel/Vauxhall Monterey/ GMC Trooper depending where in the world you live) and a towbar mounted rack. <S> Even that car is affected by the weight of 3 bikes hanging off the rear end. <S> I would hesitate to put too much weight on such a rack, and I would invest in a reputable brand if the bikes are worth a lot, but I have seen racks like these loaded with 4 mountain bikes. <S> Think about what happens if the rack fails - I had a mate who managed a large bike shop, he often had customers buying new bikes after they fell off racks. <S> One customer purchased 4 new bikes after the rack fell off at 100km/h with a logging truck following him. <S> If you do go ahead with one of these be aware of the common failure modes- <S> the straps on some models often loosen over hours of driving - so long trips pay speacial attention. <S> Many internet reviews discuss straps breaking and bikes falling on the road. <S> I always use an independent tie down (bungies are fast and effective), maybe I am paranoid. <S> Also many people discuss problems at speeds like 70MPH - think of the wind pressure of a bike movign sideways at 70mph, even on the back of a car its significant <S> (My car uses 2litre/100km more petrol carrying bikes, all of that is drag caused by the bike....). <A> Typically, you have to try a rack or check the manufacturer's compatibility list in order to see if it fits. <S> The latter is not a sure option though - I once purchased a Thule rack which wouldn't clear the lip spoiler on my car, despite it being listed in the Thule compatibility list. <S> It turns out that the models they test for compatibility on are the very base model (of which only the base manual lacks the lip spoiler), and I had to return the rack. <S> Also, when you buy a rack, make sure its of good quality. <S> I'd be wary of putting a thousand dollars of bicycles on a 40 dollar rack. <S> Also, note that racks aren't very secure when the vehicle is parked, so if possible, valuable bicycles should be stored inside the vehicle rather than outside <S> (there are small locks which some rack manufacturers sell, but you can usually just take the rack itself if you really wanted to if its the kind that goes over the trunk - its a bit more work for the trailer hitch kind, but still feasible). <A> I've had a similar rack (halfords branded) to those 2 (they use the same basic setup) on an estate with a very steep tailgate, and can't see any reason why it wouldn't fit a Berlingo (which has a tailgate I presume, swing doors might be an issue). <S> I did tend to set it up with the bottom of the rack on the rear bumper, but I didn't have to, it was just that the lowest hooks had nowhere to go except underneath the car. <S> You may have a similar issue, which would mean you can't open the tailgate.
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Those style of racks are pretty versitile, I would be surprised if they do not fit. The only problem may be that as you Citroen has a near verticle rear, the bikes may sit further out from the rear than needed, depending on rack design and adjustments. Also the ones with the rubber clips that hold the bike, do not trust the rubber.
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Shifting can't keep up with my acceleration I noticed that when I really give it hell after stopping or riding slow (I do that all the time on commute), I have to shift two gears at a time in the lower gears, to keep up with my acceleration. I then asked myself whether there's any better way for the shifting to keep up with my acceleration . The shifting process itself goes very smooth and I can time it very well in my opinion. Also, how do real bike racers do it?The reason I ask is that I hardly believe that racers always loose time with shifting over several gears before the next "thrust". Or does that not cause lots of time loss? Do racing bikes have special gear ratios for optimizing speed of the shifting process? I only cycle as a commuter (just 3.6km), but I probably behave somewhat like a racer (regarding speed) as well on that short route. <Q> Remember, very few road racers are giving it hell from a standing start. <S> The vast majority of the time they are traveling at a fairly high rate of speed as they approach the end of the race (With the lead out for the sprint, positioning, etc), so the need to jump multiple gears is very limited. <S> Other times where quick acceleration is needed is to jump a gap or catch a potential breakaway, take advantage of a person lagging on a climb, things of this nature. <S> Again, they are traveling at speed, not from a standing start. <S> The reason that you have to jump gears is that it is easy to push the gears (low torque), but you quickly speed up past the point where the gear is effective, and depending on your cassette, you may have already almost passed the speed where the next gear up is effective. <S> Also, road racers often swap gearing in their cassettes, but this is to match the gearing to the terrain. <S> If you are going to be in a mostly flat race, there is no need to have a 28 tooth large cog in the back, so they might go with an 11-20. <S> Conversely, if there is a lot of steep climbing, they may swap to some kind of 12-28 (or greater) configuration. <S> Track bikes (Which would have more relevance to short burst from standing starts in some of the events) have no gearing, they are fixed. <A> You might consider working on your cadence range; if you are able to spin up to 120-130 RPM, you will have a larger range and won't need to shift as often. <S> One-legged drills and pure cadence drills can work well for this. <A> Change gears before you need to <S> You can do this two ways. <S> Get out of the saddle when you start. <S> You'll accelerate faster and shouldn't need to change gears until your doing 30 kph (20 mph) or so. <S> Or change gears regularly as you start, say every 3 or 4 pedal strokes. <S> 1, 2, 3, change. <S> 1, 2, 3, change.
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Change to a higher gear before you stop.
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MTB with gears or non gears, suspension or non-suspension for stunts? I am planning to buy an MTB for learning stunts...(BTW my family wont allow me to buy a BMX because of its height).So my question is shall I go for MTB with front suspension or not and with gears or not? What i think is i should consider bike with gears,although they add extra weight but they can be removed later if i find them annoying...However i have no idea about front suspensions whether they will make a bicycle stronger/flexible for stunts or not... and which one will you prefer for my requirement btwin or schnell <Q> If you want to learn BMX type tricks then rigid BMX bikes come <S> rigid BMX bikes also come single speed Suspension and gears cost money. <S> Put that money into better frame and components. <S> In a mtn bike don't worry about dedicated single speed. <S> A single speed conversion kit lets you go to gears later. <S> Even if you don't want to convert it for yourself it will tend to have better resale <S> Get mtn bike with a low slung frame and a tube that lets you go way down with seat (some seat tubes have a bend). <S> Consider a 26" used mtn bike with a nice frame that has a worn out shock and gears and convert it to rigid single speed. <S> Since mtn bikers want 29" there are some really good deals on used 26" mtn bikes. <S> Especially 26" mtn bikes without disc brakes. <S> You don't want to go so old that it has the 1" treaded fork. <S> You want a 1-1/8˝ threadless steerers. <A> If you plan on doing slopestyle/dirt jumping, you'll want at least front suspension in the range of 80-120mm (80-100mm being preferred) and no rear suspension. <S> With larger slopestyle type jumps you may want a full suspension bike, but it's not worth it when you are just learning. <S> On the other hand, if you are looking at doing more street BMX and park style riding, you can get away with a rigid fork, but a suspension fork wouldn't be unusual here either. <S> For gearing, most dirt jumpers and street riders ride single speed and just vary the ring/cog sizes as needed to suit their pedaling needs. <S> As for brand, I would say Schnell, but neither of those brands look like they make a good trick-related bike. <S> I would spend some time researching Dirt Jump/Slopestyle bikes, you can get one for the same price new or used and it will fit your purpose much better. <A> They share more in common with BMX style bikes probably than anything else. <S> Really it depends on what your definition of stunts is. <S> Any number of flatland, freestyle, freeride, slopestyle, dirt jump or trials bikes could be applicable.
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I will interject that there is a whole discipline/style of riding called "trials" and they have bikes that are tuned/designed for "stunts". I would recommend visiting your LBS and having a in depth conversation with someone knowledgeable to find out what kind of riding you are planning to do.
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Tough road or touring frame/bike I recently had my bike destroyed by a car. I love cycling, and since I'm no longer a research fellow, I'm considering replacing it with a bike with great longevity (N.B. I know that until a process is perfected for constructing self-healing, Adamantium bike frames, no bike is guaranteed to survive a collision with a car). I've owned several aluminum- and steel-framed bikes in the past, and liked them all (although aluminum Canondale and GT frames had fairly thin, oversized tubes and once or twice got dinged on university bike racks , and the steel bikes slowly succumbed to rust in the rain/snow/salt of winter). For these reasons, I've long held titanium frames in high regard, because I've heard anecdotally that a good titanium bike can last the longest with minimal care (i.e. it is strong and resists corrosion); however, I recently read about stainless steel frames (e.g. KVA and Reynolds 953), which are very strong and corrosion resistant (although I've heard conflicting accounts as to whether stainless is as corrosion resistant as titanium). Which is the frame material with greatest longevity-- stainless steel or titanium? I've learned that in addition, there are other stainless steel frame types such as the nascent Reynolds 921 (Also, do you know the manufacturer with greatest longevity? I've read that the longevity of the frame not only depends on the material, but depends even more so on the quality of construction, and it's almost certainly better to have a good aluminum bike than a titanium bike held together by gum.) And if stainless is the best, is there a recommendation between KVA and Reynolds options? I found a couple of nice tables comparing physical properties online , but wanted to ask because such tables does not quantify corrosion resistance or the average tube thickness used for that material or the difficulty working with the material (which can manifest itself in greater likelihood of imperfections and later cracks), or any other je ne sais quoi that a bike expert like you can recommend. Thanks for any help you can offer, and hope all is well with you and your bike. <Q> Its not just the material that affects frame longevity, but the design of frames - different tubing thicknesses and geometries will last longer than others given the same materials. <S> That being said, a lot of touring bikes (often made of steel such as Reynolds 521 or the Tange equivalent or something, since in a pinch, you can repair steel in pretty much any country and its "ride quality") <S> are essentially bomb-proof if you take care of them <S> [the material is a neglectable factor relative to this, especially since you won't build identical bikes with different materials due to different material strengths and properties]. <S> Some people have hundreds of thousands of miles on them with little degradation. <S> Examples of touring bikes are things like Surly Long Haul Trucker, Trek 520, etc. <S> That being said, a lot of 70s Schwinns and 80s road bikes and what not are still running perfectly fine after replacing consumable parts (chainrings, chains cassettes, hub repackings, bottom brackets, etc.) when they were maintained reasonably. <S> Part of the reason why titanium lasts so long is that the people who buy titanium bikes are already extremely invested in their bicycles and take extremely good care of them. <S> They aren't left outside, they get the top level of care, they don't abuse it, etc. <S> so they see a very nice environment. <S> Also, very few if any decent bikes are going to survive taking a significant hit from a car. <A> Honestly, I would find it difficult to compete with a properly-treated steel bike with regard to cost, durability and repairability. <S> Several manufacturers are moving to ED coating, which is essentially a plating process applied to the bare metal of the frame. <S> Because its composition is typically metallic, you can powder coat or paint over it. <S> The Ogre's finish seems to chip a little more easily than either the Space Horse's or many of the powder-coated steel frames I've owned. <S> Time will tell whether the corrosion resistance will be better—I applied Framesaver to both ED-coated frames because I assume the internal coating is not perfect—but I fully expect both bikes will outlive me. <A> Some modern steel frames are ED coated, which inhibit rust on the inside and out. <S> All-City does this with most of their frames, and Surly has started to do this with some new models as well (such as the ECR and straggler). <S> Though in my experience the paint can chip a bit easier, but the ED coating below tends to remain intact. <S> This may be an option if you want a durable steel bike at a cheaper price. <S> You can always buy a can of FrameSaver and spray that inside the frame to protect it from rust as well. <A> Are you prioritizing longevity above all else? <S> Because nothing's likely to beat a cheap bike of thickwalled straight-gauge chro-moly steel (which isn't particularly vulnerable to corrosion, especially if you sand and repaint, or apply rust converter to, any nicks in the paint). <S> Lightweight, high-end tubing is more vulnerable to picking up dings, buckling in a bike accident, or, in the case of Ti, just being rubbed right through by a tire . <S> I have a stainless steel fork that I broke an eyelet off of previously, and just irreparably bent in a minor accident. <S> On the other hand, Sheldon Brown rode an 80-plus year old steel bike <S> that by all appearances was pretty neglected before his purchase. <S> 1970s <S> Schwinn road bikes were built so that their lifetime warranty would never need to be used, and you see a ton of them soldiering on through neglected maintenance and harsh urban riding. <S> I'd bet a simply-designed straight-gauge chromoly bike would be your best bet for something similar new. <S> Or you can look for a vintage frame of Columbus Aelle or equivalent, or perhaps a late-80s Miyata, which were also ED-coated, and have shown their mettle by lasting 25 years already. <S> High-end money in the bike market generally buys lighter weight or more refined aesthetics, as opposed to ultimate durability.
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Today's cheap aluminum bikes also likely have thickwalled tubing, and are thus probably less vulnerable to dings, and are even less vulnerable to corrosion than steel. I own two ED-coated bikes: an All-City Space Horse I believe is wet-painted and a Surly Ogre that is powder coated.
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Is there a polite way to take the centre of the road without antagonizing motorists? The city I live in isn't especially well designed for cycling. There are some streets with parallel parking on the sides, and in this situation it's safer to ride in the middle of the lane as to force cars to pull right over to pass, (or wait), rather than trying to squeeze past on the same lane. However I get the feeling that this antagonises some motorists, even though it is the safest way to ride. Is there a way to ride safely, while minimising motorist antagonism? <Q> In my experience, no. <S> The problem is that however polite you try to be you're taking the lane <S> so you're in their way. <S> My commute takes me over a narrow one-lane-each-way bridge that's a bit of a choke point, so it's busy. <S> It's also a raised bridge, so sight lines are very poor. <S> Since I ride it twice a day I've had the chance to experiment with some different approaches. <S> Normally I ride during daylight, so <S> I'm only considering that at the moment, but I have dynamo powered lights that are always on (they don't flash). <S> 1: ride normally, take the lane Result: <S> most motorists are fine, perhaps 10% follow closer than I'd like (within 3m), occasionally one will (illegally) overtake, often failing to allow the 1m separation that I like, but since I have room I simply move away from them. <S> 2: ride "politely" as close to the side of the road as I can Result: 5-10% of motorists try to squeeze past me, often pulling back in before they have actually done so and forcing me to brake to avoid being hit. <S> Some of them are aggressively close and these are the only times I've been abused. <S> 3: take the lane, but turn my daylight-bright blinking lights on Result: very few motorists follow too close, only one overtaking motorist and that was when there was clearly no oncoming traffic (still illegal, but relatively safe) 4: ride on the (narrow) footpath Result: rather than being scared of misbehaving motorists, I'm now illegally terrorising pedestrians (of whom there are quite a few). <S> I've only done this a couple of times, both because the road was packed with cars and I really didn't feel up to fighting for my place on the road. <S> I don't feel good about it. <S> 5: take the lane, lights on, helmet camera Result: <S> sore neck, as for (3) above. <S> I've basically stopped experimenting with this because the results are, in my opinion, conclusive. <S> I turn my lights on when I leave the bike path a couple of hundred metres before the bridge (bright flashing lights on the shared path are, IMO, rude and unnecessary), or when I leave home (the bridge is ~1km from home). <S> So I'm always using the flashing lights when I'm on the road. <A> Some tips I've gathered from being on both sides of the fence. <S> Since you're specifically asking riding safely and minimizing motorist antagonism, there are some which will work but might not appeal to your sense of justice/fairness: <S> Even higher visibility. <S> One way of antagonising drivers is to appear at the last moment, since they won't have time to plan ahead. <S> To avoid that, make sure you're aware of vehicles behind you, signal early and move out early. <S> You could add an additional rear light on our helmet or backpack (which might even be visible over the top of a parked cars). <S> During the day you might want a flashing light with daylight-visible brightness. <S> Be patient. <S> Pull over, let the cars through first, wait for a gap in the traffic. <S> If you need to take the lane for a long stretch, look for places to pull over part way. <S> Maybe even get off and walk past the danger stretch. <S> Adapt your route to avoid hot spots <S> I'm talking about cycling at walking pace, and ready to brake and watching closely for opening doors. <S> This is necessary anyway if you're filtering through stopped traffic. <S> Don't take the lane when it's unnecessary. <S> If you're out on training ride with your mates or with a club then everything else counts double - there are more of you to start, and you have a free choice of route so much less reason to be riding on the least suitable roads. <S> Finally, get on with it. <S> If you've got no choice, you're taking the lane <S> and you know you've got a line of traffic behind you, put your best foot forward and catch your breath when you're clear again. <A> Whenever I hold up a car for more than a couple of seconds, I make a point of giving them a big thumbs up or wave of thanks, just to let them know I'm not being selfish or oblivious to them. <S> I'll also look out for a safer place for them to overtake and swing back into secondary position as soon as I safely can. <S> Granted <S> this only helps once the irritated driver has been waiting behind you, <S> but I'd hope that in the long run it may help drivers become more understanding. <S> On a city commute, it's not impossible for the same car to pass you several times, so it might directly pay to be polite.
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You can safely pass parked cars up close if you slow right down.
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How bad is this fire damaged alloy frame? I got this Shimano Ultra groupset bike for free, all I need now for it is shifters as the carbon and rubber melted in them and the original seat. But now I am wondering if I can get away with it, I don't want the top/down tubes to brake off the head! The cable adjuster on the down tube is a bit melted on this one if you zoom in: Everything works great (Not to say I know if there's a good amount of lube in the head tube but it turns fine) but what do you guy think is it too dodgy to keep aluminium that has all that darkening round the welds? I know a lot will say biff it and I should at least get a new stem but please give me some disclaimer-ed thoughts for a proper like myself just wanting a bike that has better gears than Shimano tourney! EDIT: This is what concerned me: http://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/repairing-fire-damaged-bikes-689507.html They tell the guy to ditch a bike with no viable damage! It would be interesting for example to know what temperature it takes to melt the old bike seat completely of the metal guides and curl the shifter carbon leavers! <Q> I've done a bit of aluminum anodizing which requires annealing (softening) of the metal. <S> This happens at about 650F. <S> You mentioned the drop bars being melted <S> so I suspect the top tube is likely annealed and won't have the same stiffness as it's suppose to. <S> It may flex more than it should and may cause other parts to flex more also. <S> The head tube bearings were also mentioned and should be checked. <S> I also wouldn't trust the seat post. <A> As Marc said, with the heating of the frame, it's impossible to know how strong it is <S> but I wouldn't ride it. <S> Given you can pick up a carbon frame and fork from a reputable Chinese manufacturer for a few hundred dollars, the risks are not worth the rewards. <S> Get the parts, dump the frame and then buy something else (a second hand Madone frame can't be that expensive on ebay). <A>
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Its just not worth the risk. I would chuck the whole bike - its nothing more than scrap metal now.
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1980's bike vs New(er) Models? (Should one stay with an ancient bike?) I have been cycling on a Centurion Pro Tour that was constructed sometimes in the 1980's - probably late 1980's, but still. It works great. It coasts downhill far faster than my hybrid, it doesn't weigh very much and I have definitely gotten perfomance results from riding it. But, it is still from the 1980s. It kind of forces you to ride in an areo position. Once, I felt a pull in my back when I was riding up a hill (the topographic lines are very close together on that thing), and it took me days before I could ride again. Sometimes, I feel it a little in my elbows. It is worth it to look at a new bike? My budget is really only 500USD or so. Or am I just not adjusting it properly? I know it's a narrow question on the fact of it, but I can't be the only guy with a decent ancient bike who would like some opinions one acquiring a new one. My bike shop told me to I'd benefit from a new one, but hey - they are trying to sell bikes. Thanks! <Q> I suggest that you go to your local bike shop and see if you can test ride a modern bike. <S> As Daniel says $500 will not get you far. <S> A test ride of a couple of bikes at different price points will help you decide. <S> You may find that your "retro" bike is OK after all. <S> Or maybe that it never did fit you properly. <S> But a new bike could be 5kg lighter than what you have! <S> Now is a good time to do it, because it's Spring there and the shops will have a good range. <S> If you decide to buy, then you can save for the next six months :-) <A> A new road bike won't be any more comfortable and will probably put you in an even more aero position. <S> If you still have all original parts, you might want to get new stem, bars, levers, and hoods which will make it more comfortable to ride on the hoods, and the new bars are wider which is also easier on the hands. <S> A stem that angles up a bit can also help with the posture. <S> All this Will come in much cheaper then buying a whole new bike <S> , you might even want to get a modern wheel set. <S> Probably the best way to get a nice comfortable bike for your money. <A> After a few tries, it became obvious that's <S> it was a fit problem <S> so I moved the saddle a little towards the front and angled the handlebar <S> a little upwards so the hoods where more comfortable to reach. <S> With those two changes I am now able to use the bike for as long as I want. <S> At least no discomfort appeared on my 2 hour training urban rides. <S> In my first attempts to ride it I suffered pain in the back of the neck and the lower back. <S> None has reappeared with the new configuration. <S> Regarding performance I have no complaints about the bike, and Im able to keep up with some roders tha use new road bikes. <S> The only thing I miss is being able to change gears without moving my hands from the handlebars. <S> So, my conclusion is, you either continue saving to increase your budget, or use some of your actual budget to upgrade your current ride, including re fitting it. <S> I wouldn't advise to spend too much on it either, just a few components to make it more comfortable. <S> For completeness of my anecdote, I add that my position on the road bike while on the flats feels almost the same as riding on my XC bikes (same distance from saddle to straight part of handlebar) <S> I'm 30 years old and been riding XC for 14 years, road for 3 months. <A> A new seat post (carbon with more flex instead of metal) or a new saddle works wonders. <S> If you can put on fatter tyres, like 28 or 25mm instead of <S> 23mm will bring a noticeable increase of comfort. <A> My two cents: <S> Most component manufacturers trickle down their product tech to lower groupsets over time. <S> So compare a 1996 Shimano Dura-Ace component, that has 9 speeds, to a modern-day 105 component, which has 11 speeds. <S> That, in addition to all the frame geometry engineering that comes with modern bikes! <S> In my experience newer bikes with lower components ride just as smoothly as (much) older bikes. <S> Wiki chart: <S> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano#Road_groupsets <S> You should test ride different bikes to get a feel of what different bikes can do for you! <S> And as the other commenters have noted, $500 will not get you very far. <S> Mid-tier road bikes can MSRP for $1k+. <S> If I were you, I would save up to get a shiny new bike (especially if your current bike is giving you back problems). :) <A> I have a old Fuji Royale that my dad bought from a junkie <S> they year i was born, (1982), i still ride that bike. <S> the bike was way too big for him <S> so he never rode it much <S> and it sat in the garage until i was 25, it turned out to be the perfect size for me, since i'm more about 6 inches taller than him. <S> i converted it to a single speed as the chain/derailleurs were both beyond repair. <S> so old bikes aren't bad because they are old, their bad because they are the wrong size. <S> so long as they aren't rusted out or compromised they should be fine to ride. <S> in your case it sounds like you have the wrong size bike, <S> maybe two small. <S> i'm assuming you have a threaded headset, meaning you can easily raise the stem height somewhat, that should help. <S> either way, go to your LBS and ask them if its even the right size for you. <S> if its not, getting a new bike wouldn't be a bad idea. <S> if it is, ask them how to adjust it for more comfort. <A> It sounds like the main problem with your bike is that the position is too low. <S> Is your stem already at its highest possible position? <S> If so, it's still relatively easy to raise the bars. <S> You can buy a stem extender as a cheaper option: http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cromo-Quill-Stem-Extender/dp/B000AO9ZE8 Or a tall stem as a more elegant option: <S> http://store.velo-orange.com/index.php/nitto-technomic-stem-tall-26-0-clamp.html <S> You may also need to replace your cables and cable housing if your handlebars are significantly higher, but that's not a bad idea on an older bike in any case. <S> Either way, you'll spend $100 or less on the upgrade.
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also, older bikes had weird drop bars that are uncomfortable, replace that with a new bar, with a shallower drop could help or flat bars even. You might also raise the handlebar and/or shorten the stem. I've been testing a 1984's Centurion Elite road bike, but I'm more a crosscountry and downhill rider, so a the beguinning I had a lot of discomfort, and could not ride for longer than 20 minutes, while in an XC bike I can ride for 7 hours straight.
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Is it bad etiquette to ride road bike through a small residential area? Is it considered bad etiquette to ride a road bike through a small residential area? Not talking about a cheap bike and riding on the sidewalk but a nicer road bike at a decent pace. I don't want to upset anyone by cutting through their neighborhood but it would be a lot easier for my commute. <Q> IF: You're not breaking the posted road speed limit. <S> Watch not only for cars backing out but for kids. <S> Watch for dogs. <S> In small neighborhoods like this it's also not a bad idea to stay out in the lane and not hug the curb. <S> This gives you much more time if a car or child comes hurtling out into the road and you're not going to be slowing down a following car very much. <S> Edit: include the warning to watch for dogs. <S> This is pretty important. <A> No. <S> Absolutely not. <S> And why would it be? <S> Should you run a race through there without getting the residents onboard first? <S> Of course not. <S> (And who would?) <S> But taking a bike ride through residential areas? <S> Why would anyone object? <S> And if they do, how could it possibly be labeled unreasonable for a cyclist to come down the street at 10-20 mph when cars come down it all the time at 20-40 mph? <S> Pretend you live there and ask yourself which one you want coming down your street at their maximum speed and recklessness. <S> I'd take a peloton of drunken idiots on bikes over a single car. <S> The former could be merely entertaining, but the latter rather lethal. <A> I'm assuming you're in the US. <S> If that's true, a bicyclist has the same rights (and obligations) as a motor vehicle, so etiquette doesn't come into it. <S> Unless there's something odd about your bike riding (you ride with a boom box cranked up to 11?), I would think you'd be welcome to cut through a residential area, as you make no noise, emit no pollution and are arguably less impactful than a car. <S> Be polite, wave at folks who yield to you at intersections and enjoy the ride! <A> I has a sad that you even felt like you had to ask this question, no matter what kind of bike you have. :( <S> Out of curiosity, where do you live? <S> If you're used to riding, then you are used to being aware of crazy stuff that could happen around you. <S> If you live in an area that makes you ask this question, the drivers might not know how to deal with cyclists. <S> They might not think to look for you, or if they do see you, they could assume they always have the right-of-way. <S> It's probably the same in your regular commute. <S> They might have their guards down a little more in the familiarity of their bicycle-free neighbourhood. <S> But, no, it is not bad etiquette to ride your bike on public streets. <A> If you do it naked, it will probably be considered bad etiquette. <S> (Remember Bicycle Race by Queen?) <S> I guess nobody in your city ever uses a bike?! <S> In the 1800s people were afraid that trains would scare cows along the rail track, and make milk go sour. <S> Nowadays we know this is not true. <S> Biking through urban areas won't make anyone's milk sour! ;-)
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I wouldn't consider it to be bad etiquette I would just try to be a considerate and careful cyclist. You have the right to use the public roads (and the obligation to stop at stop signs).
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My bike after a new spray paint, gets scratched easily I completely sandpapered my bike a few months back and repainted it with a coat of primer first, and then matt black. The paint was sprayed only after sandpapering the bike with the appopriate gritt so as to make sure that the primer would stick great. With the original paint, my bike hardly got scraped too much and too badly, but now, it is easily scratchable. The pure metal is visible as if the primer and the matt black simply were peeled off (where the bike got scratched). What could I have done so differently to make it so much more scratchable than the original factory paint job? More Info I sandpapered the bike clean and wiped it down with rubbing alcohol as suggested (I don't remember where). Avoided touching the frame before the painting. Sprayed a coat of primer. Once dried, sprayed the matt black paint. The paints were not at all sprayed heavily to make the paint peal off, and not too lightly either. <Q> Commercial paint jobs <S> often use heat-baked enamel, with multiple coats (not just undercoat and topcoat), and finished with a clear top coat. <S> The baking process produces a really tough, well bonded coating, and the clear topcoat (as well as being tough) produces a nice finish that hides scratches. <A> Since OP said the bike was Aluminum, we should note some things: Painting aluminum almost always goes wrong when done at home. <S> Upon sanding, often sand particles are embedded in the aluminum (sand blasting likely doesn't help). <S> Chemicals are the way to go for stripping aluminum frames. <S> You typically follow this up with another compatible primer. <S> Powder coating / doing this professionally <S> will probably the way to get it to actually work. <A> I've painted a number of bikes now and I always run into the same problem. <S> I was advised to use etching paint on bare metal before priming, but this did not help. <S> It's really frustrating because you spend a lot of time preparing the surface and painting, then the paint scratches the first time something hard (or even not so hard... <S> I got a scratch just accidentally banging the bike frame against a wooden door) touches the new paint job. <S> I've come to the conclusion that this is just the way it is with home-made paint jobs.
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You need a different type of primer (etching primers specifically intended for aluminum), such as this Rust-Oleum Automotive etching primer . If I was restoring a really nice/expensive bike, I would get it professionally painted, but this reduces the amount of pride you have for you bike.
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Are there sirens/horns that are like a car horn? I am going to start commuting on my bike, but I often use busy roads that are not cycle friendly and cyclists are not often noticed. I need a horn to be noticed. (and to vent my anger without losing my voice!! - I'm joking here. One of the only highway code rules I remember is "DO NOT sound your horn aggressively". If only car drivers knew that one!) Is there any horn out there that is battery powered but does not sound like an alarm system, or has more than one sound? I just want to press it and have a sound like a car horn. Are there any cheap ones out there that do this (I do not mind buying from China). <Q> Here are a few loud horns: The hornit: <S> A shop I used to work at sold these <S> and they are extremely loud - around 140 decibels, but they sound like a loud beep rather than a horn. <S> It takes 2 AAA batteries. <S> Costs $45 US. <S> The nice thing about this one is the button to press is remote, so you can have the horn on your fork or wherever. <S> Airzound: <S> http://deltacycle.com/airzound-horn <S> This one is slightly less loud (115 db), but it has more of a honk to it and requires no batteries - it takes air pressure through your standard bike pump, so there's virtually no cost beyond the initial investment. <S> this one is slightly bulkier as you have the horn itself, the air cannister, which looks like a water bottle, and the tube that connects them. <S> A friend of mine has one and he says it's pretty effective. <S> There's also this kickstarter: <S> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lansey/loud-bicycle-car-horns-for-cyclists I've never seen this one in person, but the kickstarter can explain it for you. <S> It has 112 db sound and sound the most like a car horn. <S> it's $95 US though. <S> GaryE also showed this one: <S> I use a bike horm from another Kickstarter project. <S> It has a friendly sound and a very loud beep: <S> The loudness is 98 db, but this one also has a light included <A> Using a loud horn to vent your anger is not a good idea. <S> They look around for the car/truck that is blasting them, they won't be looking for a cyclist as they don't expect a horn noise to come from one. <S> They may then waver from their line possibly putting you at greater risk. <S> A safer option is to cycle defensively so they do see you and always keep aware of escape routes if cars do invade your space. <S> If you do require an aural warning then yelling is very effective. <S> Drivers do hear you and then are expecting a cyclist or pedestrian and behave appropriately. <A> This is Jonathan the founder of Loud Bicycle the creators of the car horns for bikes. <S> This is exactly what you need. <S> You can buy the original horn over at http://www.loudbicycle.com , or back our new Kickstarter for a mini horn which is about half the weight of the original – and still sounds just like a car and is just as loud. <S> https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/lansey/loud-mini-bicycle-horn <S> Glad to answer any questions here too! <A> In addition to the puny bell which is mandatory in the Netherlands, my Velomobiel Quest human-powered vehicle also has an electrical motorcycle horn. <S> It is driven by a radio-controlled car battery pack . <S> It's relatively loud (sadly also for the Quest driver) and keeps road-raging motorists at bay quite well. <S> It might even be possible to get a 6-volt variant of the horns such that you can use a smaller battery pack or even two mobile phone batteries taped together. <S> That is, if you want to tinker with this stuff. <S> The downside of having a car horn, instead of another noise-making device, is that nobody will identify a cyclist with the horn sound. <S> I think the AirZound which Cole mentioned is a better approach, because it actually sounds less like a car horn. <A> Check out the Orp Smart Horn. <S> It's a bike light and a high powered bike-horn. <S> It should be loud enough to get noticed by cars, not just a dinky bell sound. <S> It also doubles as a visibility light and is USB rechargeable. <S> I don't have personal experience with this, but I was looking at ordering one for myself. <S> http://www.orpland.com/
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Scared/confused drivers behave even worse than normal drivers, and a loud noise coming from a bike can confuse them. ORP Smart Horn – Gary E Of course if you are yelling so much you damage your voice then I would suggest a course of yoga and meditation to calm yourself down... or possibly plan to use a different route.
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Single pivot brake with handlebar levers (Resurrecting an old Colnago) I have an old Colnago I want to resurrect, which after some Google-ing I have discovered is very similar to the bike here (but in blue): I want to replace the drop bar brakes with "standard" brakes on the handle bar (this bike isn't for racing, just going around the city and it's more comfortable like this). So I am thinking of taking off the old brakes, re-taping the bars and fixing some new levers to the bar. The brakes are like these: Problem is, I have never done this before and it's a first time. So my question is: do I need anything special to convert it? Or can I just use some standard v-brake levers? After this the next question is I want to replace the whole crankset, cassette, pedals - the works. Brakes first though. Edit: By "standard" I mean what this bike has, but with both sets of brakes. <Q> There are interrupter levers such as the Tektro RL720 pictured here (courtesy of Rivendel): <S> You will need to redo the cabling, but standard V-brake levers will not work for a variety of reasons (handle bar diameter (conceivably, you could shim it on, but this doesn't seem very safe) and amount of cable pull (which you could solve with a travel agent, but this is pricey). <S> Most of these are designed for 24mm clamp diameter bars, so you may need a new bar if yours doesnt have this diameter. <S> Arne's suggestion is a good one though - you could fetch a pretty penny for that thing from a vintage bike nut, and get something thats more discrete for riding around town and other things (and has the essential rack and fender mounts). <A> "Standard" brakes is not a thing. <S> Can you be more specific? <S> You imply you want to replace the brake levers with a different style, such as those designed for flat bars, but you provide a photo of road calliper brakes as your replacement. <S> Are we talking about the brake callipers or the levers? <S> As Batman points out, there are issues (though not insurmountable) in changing from one brake lever style to another, but they can be a pain all the same. <S> Differing amounts of cable pull being a good example. <S> If you mean suicide brakes , then seriously reconsider this. <S> They are not safe and only actuate the real drop brake lever. <S> They will also seriously degrade the value of your bike. <S> If you mean to change the callipers, then this is a much easier job, but you also have to think about compatibility; is it a recessed bolt or nutted, is the reach compatible with the wheels. <S> Above all, if the current setup works, you'd be best leaving it and maybe tuning it, rather than switching out entire systems. <S> And if you do decide to sell it, I'll put up my hand. <S> PS: <S> Interrupter brakes, as Batman suggests, do indeed work by pushing the housing rather than pulling the cable, and are really designed to be between two pieces of housing, as in the image. <S> But they will work adequately if you push the housing away from the… <S> I think it's called the nipple. <S> The only dodgy bit is that the nipple is sitting in the equivalent of a cable stop, and so is not very snug. <A> Get used to riding a drop bar bike as it is before you make this sort of change. <S> You will probably find that you can amble along not working very hard with your hands on the tops, but when you want a bit of power, keeping your hands on the drops is suddenly much more comfortable, powerful and efficient. <S> (Back injuries may change this, making the "drops" position painful or uncomfortable) <S> Then when you need to stop suddenly, you will need the brake levers on the drops; as the bike is designed. <S> Move the brake levers to the tops and braking is only safe and convenient <S> when your hands are on the tops; i.e. when you aren't going very fast. <S> That's a very bad idea... <S> Far better to shift your hands to the drops and brake as hard as you need, and the easiest way to train yourself to do that is to unscrew the "suicide bars" and recycle them. <A> If you are going to use the original "calliper brakes" <S> then you cannot use a Vee-Brake lever as it pulls too much cable and will not work properly. <S> You can obtain a traditional brake lever <S> , Velo-Orange supply a suitable type ("VO City Bike Brake Levers"), with a 23.8mm clamp to fit traditional drop-bars. <S> Otherwise, you may be able to remove the clamp from the original levers and swap them into the new levers. <S> " They are intended to be fitted to drop-bars and allow you to brake from the top of the bar and from the sides as well, but not from the bottom of the drops. <S> They are a traditional French "Cyclo-touriste" design that work well. <S> If you want to improve the braking with the original callipers, purchase some high-quality brake pads such as the Kool-Stop "Salmon Compound" type.
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The "suicide bars" mentioned in another answer are well named : they flex badly so while they provide a little slowdown with your hands on the tops, they won't provide the braking you need when you really need it - in the wet you will slide helplessly into the obstacle at almost your original speed. Another option to consider is the "Dia-Compe Guidonnet Brake Levers.
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When riding with a single pannier, does it matter which side it's on? I read somewhere that when riding with a single pannier, the pannier should be mounted on the left side (traffic side in the US). However, the article didn't give a reason behind that. It's been quite some time and I can't find the article again for reference. I initially thought that it was so that the reflectors on the panniers wouldn't mislead motorists as to where on the road I, the cyclist, was positioned. However, after noticing this evening that a pannier mounted on the traffic side of the bike blocked the visibility of my girlfriend's seat post mounted light, I began to question this. Is there any reason to ride with the pannier on one side or the other? Does it matter it all? <Q> I wasn't aware of a rule for this, but I would hang a single pannier on left because it's the non-drive side of the bike. <S> I doubt it matters though. <S> When I was buying a new rear wheel a few months back, I found the spoke patterns in some rear wheels are different on one side to the other, so I don't know if this would make a difference. <S> (I'd have added this as a comment, but it informs me I'd need 50 rep for that, hence the "answer".) <A> I'm primarily a daytime rider; if I'm riding with two panniers I mount the one on the left first because that is the side with my kickstand, and putting weight on the left (kickstand) side of the bike is more stable for me than the right hand side. <S> If I'm riding with a single pannier I generally mount it on the left for most bicycles. <S> It is: more stable when resting on the kickstand easier for me to swing a leg over easily accessible for removal when I've parked the bike as I dismount to the left <A> Most people have their single pannier on the left side for balance reasons because they are using single-leg kick-stands, which usually mount on the non-drive-side. <S> I have a double-leg kickstand <S> so it doesn't matter which side <S> I mount the pannier -- at least for balance reasons. <S> So I mount it on the right (drive) side. <S> The reason I do this is because when I'm walking the bike, I walk on the left (non-drive) side. <S> Having the pannier on the right side also means that I have better visibility of the mounting points as I stand on the left side trying to attach and detach it. <S> Some panniers have easy attachments that you could do blind, but my ones require just a tad of fussing. <S> Fine print: I should note that my office-bag pannier was not symmetrical <S> so I had to flip the mounting points to mount it on the right <S> -- i.e., it came from the factory (Ortlieb) designed to be mounted on the left (nds) side, but was easily reversible. <A> Firstly, your girlfriend has her light mounted incorrectly. <S> If at all possible move it further back on the bike, so that the tyre and frame don't block the view of it. <S> If the light is designed to be mounted there it's a poor design. <S> Having the big block of colour/reflectors on the road side sounds like a good idea. <S> But the pannier will still be visible on the other side of the bike, so it's more a matter of having it slightly further out. <S> That also means the clean side of the pannier is facing traffic turning from the other side of the road, helping potential T-bone drivers see you. <S> I think it depends on whether you're buying one pannier or a pair. <S> Generally people buy panniers in pairs so they can use both when they want to carry more stuff. <S> And you want the pair to wear evenly, so you don't end up with one ratty old worn-out pannier paired with a nearly new one. <S> So it's best to alternate the panniers from time to time. <S> If you buy symmetrical panniers this isn't an issue - you can keep using your single pannier on the outside, just swap them over occasionally (so the former "left" side pannier now sits on the right, and vice versa). <S> With larger rear panniers they're often asymmetric, though, so you can't do that. <S> I'm not sure the advantage of having the pannier on the traffic side is so great that I'd be willing to wear that pannier out leaving the other side one much less worn. <S> Maybe buy two of the traffic side one? <A> I put blinkies on my panniers (there's a little strap thing on them for that purpose), so if I'm only running one, I put it on the left partly so that the blinky blinks at traffic. <A> Are you sure the reason for the left side of the bike has to do with the side of the roads cars should hold? <S> I always mount my pannier on the left side, but I chose to do that just to better balance the bike : I would guess that the transmission with the chain, cogs, derailleur, etc.. all to the right of the wheel axis should even so slightly make the bike heavier on the right side. <S> The other practical reason why I chose to do that is that this way I am positive <S> my pannier won't interfere with the gear mechanism <S> (e.g.: the pannier pushing the derailleur towards the inside on a bump, a loose strap getting caught between cogs and chain, the chain itself smearing grease on the pannier...) <S> These are my reasons to mount it on the left, <S> no guarantee they are the reasons behind the article you read! :)
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Having the panniers on the drive side means that I am not bumping my legs/hips against the panniers.
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Is it possible to predict when roads will have less traffic? I'm planning a two day trip down the UK country roads. I'd like to time and plan my route so that I'll have a pleasant ride. Is it possible to tell which days of the week would see the least traffic? I'll be cycling from dawn till late afternoon on both days. <Q> Generally speaking, Saturdays and Sundays are quieter than weekdays. <S> This table (TRA0307) shows average traffic by time and day of the week. <S> There's also this table (TRA0306) which shows average traffic by day for different road types and different vehicles. <S> Finally, there are statistics for average annual traffic on every major road in the UK. <S> There's an interactive map here . <A> The full answer is it depends , as Chris has commented. <S> If it is really a country road, you can also encounter farm animals as they are being moved, or farm machinery (or it can encounter you). <S> This can happen on any day of the week, as can the other kinds of traffic. <S> In general the only category that might be expected to decline is commercial trucking on a Sunday. <S> You don't mention if you are in the UK; if so, a reconnaissance trip could be worth it. <S> Another source of information would be local cycle touring clubs or groups . <A> The roading network in the UK is well categorised so understanding what the different categories of roads are will assist you in planning a route: M Roads <S> motorways bicycles are banned from using these. <S> A Roads major roads intended to provide large-scale transport links within or between areas. <S> These are generally dual carriageways and will have consistent haevay traffic especially in peak travel times which may lead to congestion. <S> B Roads roads intended to connect different areas, and to feed traffic between A roads and smaller roads on the network. <S> These will be well maintained roads with lighter traffic between peaks. <S> Classified unnumbered smaller roads intended to connect together unclassified roads with A and B roads, and often linking a housing estate or a village to the rest of the network. <S> These will have some traffic at the peak but generally quiet. <S> Unclassified local roads intended for local traffic. <S> Generally always quiet unless there are road works or a detour in place. <S> These road types should be identifiable on any map.
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Generally speaking if you planned a cycle tour that avoided A roads you should have a reasonably quiet run for most of the day. The Department of Transport collects various statistics on road use .
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How should I train for a hilly ride while living in a flat country? I'm kicking around the idea of riding the Curadmír in the spring of 2015 (almost 600km over 3 days across Northern Ireland), a ride that would obviously have a lot of elevation changes in it (~2000m/day). A year is a lot of time to prepare for it, except for one small problem. I live in the Netherlands. A country almost entirely flat and almost entirely below sea level. The biggest hill within 250km of my home is a highway overpass. Short of getting on a train to the Kapelmuur every other weekend from October to May, how would you recommend I train for riding hills without, you know, riding hills? <Q> Intervals. <S> Lots of intervals. <S> I had a similar problem when training for the Seattle-To-Vancouver ride while living in southern Michigan. <S> We have hills up north <S> and I took a few trips there before the ride, but it really wasn't enough to reduce the suck. <S> This year, I've taken to doing tons of intervals with a regimented training program. <S> In order to keep myself honest, I've been using my bike in a trainer with trainerroad. <S> The measurable progress is rewarding and knowing when I am slacking off is incredibly motivating. <A> Although The Netherlands is pretty flat (highest point 321m in southern Limburg), there certainly are some hills, even closer to Amsterdam: <S> The Holterberg is a short, but decently steep climb in the Sallandseheuvelrug, which is a nice area to cycle in anyways. <S> The Veluwe nature area is relatively hilly, with the Posbank hill having a steep climb from the south side (if I recall correctly). <A> If it's not too far, try Limburg and the region around Aachen in Germany. <S> While you won't find hour-long ascents there, riding a lot of smaller hills up and down will keep you far more fit than riding one big ascent a day. <A> Riding into a stiff headwind is pretty similar to climbing a steep hill and a lot more demoralizing. <S> My guess is that you've got lot's of wind. <S> Find a loop where you're doing 20-30 minutes into a 20kph headwind <S> and you'll physically ready for hill climbing. <S> What will be hard to simulate is the mental parts of pacing yourself correctly over the whole climb. <S> If you're doing long days in hilly country, even just a short hard effort early in the ride can affect the whole day. <S> You've only got so many matches, try and keep at least one or two in reserve. <A> I cycle a lot everyday. <S> As the previous one said, try going to Limburg, or exercise a few hours in the Mergelgrotten around Limburg, or try some nature areas around Braband or Drente, which ever is the closest.
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A headwind tends to be a constant steady effort, whereas most hills vary in grade and you need to learn to pace yourself on the steepest parts.
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Route planning and avoiding gravel/unpaved roads? I've got a Garmin Edge 810. Sometimes when using routes created with Garmin Connect or Strava Route Builder, I unfortunately find myself on bad gravel roads. Is there a route planning tool that allows you to only select asphalt/tarmac? <Q> As part of the route finding options under Open Street Maps there is an "Avoid unpaved roads/paths" I have successfully used Bike Route Toaster with a Garmin 800 in the past. <S> I planned out a 1000 km journey across Norway on back roads, gravel (eek!) and paths. <S> It was amazing how well it worked, thanks to the all the hard effort of volunteers around the world who contribute to the cycling version of open street maps. <S> I only had one minor hiccup in all those miles. <S> Good luck! <A> I am planning to bike across Pennsylvania this summer <S> and I am having trouble finding good roads to use for biking. <S> Then I hit upon the idea of Google street view (and the Microsoft version of it). <S> Using street view has been a fantastic help for me! <S> I have found a route that has paved shoulders for my entire north/south route! <S> And that was in a couple hours. <S> My plan is to spend more time looking for alternate routes over the next week or two. <A> I tend to find that in the UK at least, a quick check if the road has been 'Google StreetViewed' will show if it is tarmac or not. <S> You can quickly check this by dragging the 'pegman' (little orange StreetView icon located above the zoom bar), if the road has been StreetViewed then it will turn blue. <S> In my experience over 90% of coloured roads on OS Maps (i.e. not white) are paved, these can be seen on http://maps.bing.com .
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Use Bike Route Toaster and make sure you are using Open Street Maps Cycling version ("Open Cycle Map).
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When Mark Cavendish says he's sprints at 1500 watts how long is that for? In an interview with Cycle Sport, Cavendish said he puts out over 1500 watts of power. “You’d be surprised at my watts,” Cavendish says. “Most people who say that their maximum is 1,600 watts won’t put out 1,600. My maximum is 1,580, and that is a lot. Not many guys will do more than a hundred more than that. But no one will ever get close to that in a race after 200 kilometres,” he continues. “I put out 1,490 today in training, on bad form, but I won’t put that out in a race. It’s not watts, and it’s not just my frontal area in a sprint. It’s everything beforehand. How I ride in the peloton. My pedalling action. How I sit. I save so much energy for the finish.” Is it 5 second power or 30 second power? <Q> That kind of power is going to be between 5-30 seconds, and is most likely a 5 second maximum, or he's quoting the absolute peak that he put out. <S> There is a very interesting analysis of several Team Columbia riders from a couple years ago when Cavendish won the stage. <S> A few riders have 30-40 second pulls at the front in the 650-700 watt range, and in the leadout, Markus is at 700+ watts for over 30 seconds with a peak over 1000. <S> So if the leadout is at 1000, Cavendish probably is doing 5-20 seconds in the 1200 range as he comes around the slingshot, with surge peaks into the 1400 range, but that level is not sustainable. <S> You can see this when sprinters mistime their sprints and start losing steam short of the line. <S> Here is the link with the powerfiles. <A> Most people who say that their maximum is 1,600 watts won’t put out 1,600. <S> My maximum is 1,580, and that is a lot. <S> Quoted like that, the 1580watt number will be for 1 second most likely. <S> 1 second is the typical recording rate of the SRM PowerControl units (same with the Garmin Edge). <S> So unless a duration is specified, "maximum" will refer to the highest recorded sample in the file (the PowerControl can record faster than 1 sample/second, but the higher rates are typically only used for analysing events like standing starts in track racing, not for 200km road-race stages, where 0.25 second resolution is excessive) <S> Update : <S> This article on " <S> The profile of a sprint" gives some specific numbers: <S> The sprint peak power output was 1248±122 W (range: 989-1443 W), and the average power was 1020±77 W (865-1140 W) for a duration of 13±2 s (9.0-17.0 s). <S> These data fall within the range of previously published data where, for example, a peak power of 1097 W and 1370±51 W were reported for won sprints. <S> The peak speed reached during the sprints was 66.1±3.4 (57.1-70.6), slightly lower than the expected; however, the speed data were in agreement with previously published data ( J Martin 2007 , Menaspa 2013 ) <S> The whole article is worth reading, and it backs up the quote from your question "It’s not watts, and it’s not <S> just my frontal area in a sprint", <S> We know that the highest sprint power is not always the race winner, because there is no correlation at all between the two outcomes <S> In practical terms, such a reduction in CdA (~10%) can result in more than three metres advantage over a 14 seconds sprint. <S> A recent case study showed that a good position in the bunch and team support are important factors for road sprint performances ( Menaspa 2013 ) <A> I had tweet from Velon (a company that deals with data gathering from the pro peleton) in a news feed today. <S> It immediately made me think of this question. <S> Sam Bennett sprinted to 2nd place on stage 2 of the UAE Tour with the following power figures: <S> Avg Speed: 27.3 km/h <S> Avg Power: <S> 1060 <S> W Power-to-weight: 14.52 W/kg Max Power: 1480 <S> W <S> Avg Cadence: 89 rpm <S> Hopefully Velon continue to make more interesting data like this available in the future!
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Based solely on these data, it becomes obvious why there were no correlations between absolute power (Watts) and race results Tactical variables may be as important as, or even more important than, power alone.
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How long for legs to get used to fixed gear 15 mile daily ride Due to a car accident and the extended time insurance has taken to get my car handled, I pulled my fixie out of the garage and started riding it to my university mon-fri; it's about a 15 mile round trip, no hills. I have been doin this ride for 3 weeks now and my legs are still significantly sore from the ride every day. When I am riding, there are no issues with my legs or stamina or anything, but lets say I am standing and I keep my leg straight and try to lift it; at about 45 degrees the top part of my leg where it meets the hip/pelvis there is pain and I cant really lift it any higher. Is there a certain point where after having done this ride 5 days a week for a given number of weeks that I will not have this issue anymore? If anyone knows any stretches for cycling too that they would like to suggest, that would be appreciated too. For profiling on this issue I am 5'5", 120lbs, and have been significantly inactive for the past year as a university student (literally spend the large majority of my time sitting in a chair). <Q> First off, I assume when you say "fixie" it is a pure fixed-gear bike? <S> It's not a flip-flop (where the wheel can accommodate a fixed cog on one side and a freewheel on the other)? <S> If it is a flip-flop, you'll find it easier to ride single speed rather than fixed. <S> Second, I agree with much of what @Arne has said in your comments. <S> From these you say you're riding 45x15 - I think one of the beauties of fixies is that they're easy to work on, and you can easily buy cogs with more than 15 teeth. <S> Similarly, but a bit more expensive, you can easily buy a chainring with fewer than 45 teeth. <S> Either of these (or both of them) will make your ride easier (and therefore ease on your muscles). <S> A site I like is Velosolo , not so much because they have great prices or anything (although I have bought from them <S> and it was a good experience), but they have a good selection of single-speed/fixed-gear parts, so you can evaluate what your options are. <S> But make sure you keep your current parts as you'll likely want to put them back on the bike in a month or so. <A> If you don't have a transportation alternative, try leaving some extra time and taking it easy on the ride. <S> Your gear ratio is indeed very high, as well: 45-15 is around 80 gear inches. <S> I'm a daily 13-mile RT commuter on a fixed gear (including a ~150ft climb), and I just moved down from ~80 gear inches to 75 gear inches for comfort, despite being an experienced cyclist and hillclimber. <S> Presuming <S> you have a flip-flop hub, I would buy a 17T freewheel for an easier ride, at least until you get stronger. <S> That'd give you 70 gear inches, which would be around 15% less effort, and you'd be able to coast. <A> Soreness should already have started to fade. <S> Are there any sprints in your ride, or lots of re-starts? <S> The answers focusing on the bicycle are far better than I can come up with, and the suggestions of taking rest days to allow muscle recovery are good. <S> Addressing the body more specifically, do you have breakfast before you ride? <S> At least 200 calories of junk carbohydrates (rolls, sweet cereal), an hour before you ride will help your muscles perform with the least unpleasant recovery pain. <S> Protein soon after the ride will help build the muscle. <S> Light range-of-motion swinging of the legs similar to the test you described that hurt at 45 degrees, on recovery-days will keep circulation developing on days the muscle is rebuilding, reducing the chemical soreness overall. <S> Check with a fitness reference that you trust for more info.
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If you can, try taking a bus or carpooling or something on Wednesday, to give you a midweek recovery day— muscles need a chance to recover to strengthen.
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Tire Gauge to Avoid Over-Inflation I just purchased a tire floor pump with a gauge for my bike. The gauge seems to start off at 0 PSI when I connect the pump to the tire. So, do I need to use a separate tire gauge to first measure the current pressure of my tires prior to using the pump so as not to over-inflate them? Additional info : I purchased the Serfas TCPG Bicycle Floor Pump and the gauge does not move at all when the hose is attached until I start pumping. Not sure if that's correct or if I'm doing something wrong. <Q> The pressure dial doesn't measure the pressure in the tube - it gives the pressure in the entire system (tube + hose). <S> When you connect your pump, you need to pressurize the hose to the same level as the tube before it will read anything. <S> I usually find this takes two or three full pumps, and the resistance jumps up massively once the tube and tire have the same pressure. <S> At that point, the dial will show you the pressure in your tire. <A> I still don't understand why people are so anxious to get the pressure right to the last millibar. <S> It will vary with load, temperature and time anyway, even on a relatively short ride of only a couple of km. <S> As long as it's more or less correct, that's good enough. <S> For road bikes (~8 bar/116 psi typical tire pressure), a 0.2 bar/3 psi difference is absolutely acceptable IMHO. <S> On an MTB, which runs far lower pressures, less is better, but as the tires are far bigger, a pump stroke will also not put that much more pressure on them. <S> In the end, I try to end up within ~3% of the target, which has served me well the last 20 years. <S> So, what @Remy said in his comment is the way to go. <S> So don't lean on your pump with full force until that happens <S> and you're good to go. <S> Also, most floor pumps designed for road bikes don't have the volume to make your tires burst with just one stroke. <A> Squeezing the tire or putting your weight on the handlebars or seat will give you a ballpark idea of how much air you will need to add, if any. <S> Experience is still a good teacher. <S> Expensive sometimes but reliable. <S> Batman is right about the Presta valves: don't forget to unlock the valve (back the lock "nut" off the valve cylinder) before attaching the pump. <S> If a Schrader is showing zero pressure after attaching the pump, the pump center-pin isn't pressing the valve stem in. <S> Pump-mounted gauges are pretty good, but checking accuracy against a trusted gauge is probably a good idea as well.
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Prestas will click open when the pressure in the hose surpasses that in the tube. I've found using a gauge often causes more air loss than the reading was worth.
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Disk brake squealing after bike shop changed my pads. Is it enough reason to ask them to re-service (for free)? I recently took my bike to the shop, since it started making a weird metal on metal (not squeal, just hard brushing sound). After checking it out they saw that the back brake pads were really (REALLY) worn down, so they changed them. Now my bike is doing a really loud screechy sound when I use the back brakes, and the bike doesn't even stop that fast, I remember my back brakes being pretty strong, completely stopping the back wheel even if I was going fast (of course, if I was going fast it would drift a little.. but the wheel was locked). Now it's making this loud sound and just kind of slowing me down slowly, but not fully breaking. I didn't know if this was normal.. but after reading a few question here like this, it seems like it is definitely not. ( Fixing noisy V brakes ) Is this a legitimate reason to take the bike back to the shop and tell them there is something wrong with their work? Thanks! <Q> I'm assuming Avid BB7 style brakes and not hydraulic. <S> I wouldn't bring the bike back. <S> If you are using skewers on your hub, remember that any slight mis-alignment of the wheel in the dropouts will affect brake disk squeal. <S> Because the skewers are so easy to reset, as well as its pretty easy to turn the red adjustment knobs on the brakes you might discover this <S> is something you want to understand how to 'adjust' yourself. <S> With skewers on the axles and BB7 style brakes no tools required. <S> You will have to understand the 1/3 alignment rule for that style brake. <S> If you have hydraulic brakes, and a non-adjust axle mount system that's a different story. <S> Please do bring the bike back to the shop. <S> It would be safer to have a pro look at the system to ensure everything is correct. <S> On the other hand, if you wanted the shop to teach you a thing or two about BB7 adjustment (1/3 alignment rule) and skewer use (how tight is should it be?), most shops would be happy to help you. <A> This isn't necessarily unusual for fresh disc pads. <S> Give it a solid 20 miles. <S> Even still, it's not necessarily something wrong with their work. <S> It might be, if they were clumsy and didn't align things properly or left oil on the pads. <S> But a little noise isn't enough to convict them. <A> I tend to run into the same scenario when I replace my own brake pads on my bike's TRP Spyre mechanical disc brakes. <S> TRP is Tektro's high-end division, and I use Shimano B01S resin pads or anything similarly shaped (TRP says pads for Shimano BR-M515/M575 calipers will fit). <S> The cause of the squealing in my experience is the lack of proper bed-in . <S> When you change and install new brake pads, this synergy is lost. <S> The rotors still have the "memory" of the old brake pad material on their faces, with very tiny imperfections that don't line up with the surface of the new pads, and this is what gives the high-pitched squealing. <S> When you bed in new pads to the rotors, you're effectively scrubbing off the old friction material while replacing it with that of the new pads'. <S> To bed-in new brake pads, find a flat surface or downhill incline where you can build up a bit of speed. <S> Accelerate to about 10 miles an hour, then pull on the levers - smoothly but powerfully - to an almost complete stop. <S> Keep repeating this over and over. <S> With enough cycles you will notice the squealing become less audible. <S> Some people even resort to sanding of the rotor faces and fresh pads with 100-grit and 220-grit sandpaper in order to get the old friction material off and quicken the whole bed-in process. <S> Be careful handling the brake rotor, though - best to use gloves for this job as skin oils can easily contaminate a rotor. <S> Brake pads will also naturally bed-in by themselves, but you will have to bear with the screeching that whole time.
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Disc brakes (even on cars) work best when there is enough of the brake pad's friction material deposited onto the face of the rotor. Then if you still have problems coming to a stop, take it to the shop and have them look at it.
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When to lube a chain? Should a chain be lubed each time after riding in the rain*? What about a 100km mudride (occasional water up to the hubs)? Should I stop in the middle of the ride to re-lube the chain? If so, is it essential to wipe the chain? Note that wiping with a piece of paper will be much less effective than with the cleaning device at home, so some mud and sand will be pushed into the rollers by the oil. Can dry chain be felt somehow, instead of relying on mileage and weather observations? How to do it? * - many lubes are marketed as holding a film for months <Q> I think it is a judgement call, but I don't think you can separate lubing from cleaning. <S> Mostly, cleaning will be simply wiping with a paper towel, occasionally it will be the other extreme - I take the chain and the cassette off the bike completely and bathe the lot in degreaser. <S> But after each clean I apply lube. <S> To quantify, in your situation, I think if I were doing 100km muddy rides, I would clean the chain in between every ride. <S> To lube during a ride..... <S> well I can't see any point in doing that. <S> You'd just be lubing dirt. <S> In my situation (and I'm a road rider) <S> I will generally clean/lube every week or 10 days, or every 2-3 rides. <S> I count this as standard maintenance, just like pumping the tyres. <S> A "deep" clean, where I take everything off, will be maybe every 3 months or so. <S> I use one of two lubes, depending on season/weather - a light, dry-weather lube (which would certainly be washed off in the rain) or a more sticky wet-weather lube. <S> As regards your last point, if you do start to "feel" something, then probably what you'd be feeling is damage that had already been done. <S> I view lubing as preventative, so I'll lube on a time-driven basis rather than an event-driven basis. <A> If the conditions are wet I make sure to use a Wet lube designed for those conditions and follow the directions on the bottle. <S> Typically wet conditions call for more lube since the water can destroy the chain. <S> You may not always need to reapply after every wet ride <S> but you should be drying the bike off and giving everything a once over. <S> You don't want to leave your bike sitting there wet in the corner like a step child. <S> Gotta give that beast some love. <S> Take care of it and it will take care of you. <S> That 100km mud ride sounds awesome! <S> I would say to keep and eye and ear on things as the ride progresses. <S> Here is a pretty good post about riding in muddy conditions <S> .He seems like like Dumonde Tech Lube for those conditions <S> A dry chain can be heard pretty easily. <S> It sounds like your bike is dying. <S> Good Luck! <A> This depends entirely on the lube. <S> Normally, I'll just dry off the chain after riding in the rain or clean it with warm water if mud is involved and dry it afterwards. <S> Before the next ride (best the evening before) I check whether the chain is dry. <S> If my fingers get (a little!) <S> oily, everything's fine, otherwise, I relube. <S> The relube intervals depend of course on riding frequency, but my commuting bike gets a relube every couple of weeks, even though I leave it outside while at work. <A> So many parameters to consider! <S> I lube the MTB chain before each ride, but I hose rinse the bike after each ride. <S> I lube the road bike after it collects enough dirt to be cleaned. <S> About every other month <S> On the same topic, I would recommend to check your chain wear on a regular basis. <S> I recently lost several cassette teeth to this <A> A little more experience with the bike and trails around, so let me comment on it. <S> It seems that passing through several ankle-deep bodies of water already robs the chain of all <S> it's lube (I use "Finish line" "wet conditions" generously applied). <S> That is, the chain has been submerged several times completely in water . <S> Subsequently, the chain feels dry and grinds specifically. <S> Therefore, my advice would be to clean (a couple of wipes with a handkerchief) and lube (with at least a simple $1 oil from the hardware store) after the worst has passed . <S> This means either after the wet section, or at least, before the asphalt ride home. <S> Bottom line, if you have more than a couple of kilometers to home, and the chain feels dry (it rubs and squeaks specifically), dismount and spend 2 minutes to prolong it's life and make your ride more pleasant.
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I will basically lube the chain every time after I've cleaned it. If you are hearing excessive noise from your drivetrain then a dry chain may be culprit. I use Finish Line Cross Country for all my bikes except the Velomobile, where I use a thinner lube because the chain is entirely inside the fairing.
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Does the age of brake pads make any difference? I recently changed my brake pads with some new ones that have been in my shed for years. They are not packaged, but as I am in the UK, which has a very variable climate. The shed gets very hot and humid in the day, and cools down at night. Does this have an effect on the brake pads, with V brakes? <Q> Almost any rubber product will degrade over time, loosing its properties. <S> Different rubber compounds will degrade differently, depending on the formula and method of fabrication and, of course, environmental factors. <S> This applies to brake pads, tires, grips, valve seals, inner tubes and more. <S> A less flexible pad is less capable of creating friction. <S> I know of some rubber (or rubber-like) products that when degraded turn to a thick paste that will stain fabrics, skin, etc. <S> but never seen a brake pad degrade this way, if that where the case, it would not last eve one braking. <S> To test a V-Brake pad press hard with your fingernail on its working surface. <S> You should be able to sink the fingernail just a little bit, leaving a pressure mark that will shortly disappear. <S> If it feels hard, wood-like, almost sure you are better discarding it. <S> However, pad age is not the only factor that can degrade braking performance. <S> Dirt and grease on pad or rim for example. <S> I recommend washing them with liquid dish washing soap. <S> Another factor is calibration. <S> Brake pads not properly aligned may will not perform as designed. <S> Finally, there are different rubber formulas for aluminum or steel rims, (And for carbon fiber I guess) <S> and I have tested pads that work wonders on steel <S> are worthless on aluminum. <S> Also have observed that the same pad can perform differently on aluminum rims made of different alloys. <S> << End of answer and begin of anecdote > <S> > <S> Recently I committed the mistake of trying to slowly descend a long pronounciated slope with a road bike from 1984 that still had the original pads (The ones it was originally sold with). <S> The result was the friction generated was so poor that they only caused the rims to heat up to the point that both inner tubes were blown out. <S> One rim was steel and the other a single wall aluminum. <A> Since V-brakes use pads that are almost exclusively made of rubber or a rubber-like compound, they will have experienced some changes due to the temperature and moisture fluctuations. <S> The rubber is most likely dried out and/or cracked and significantly harder. <S> What does this mean for your braking ability? <S> It means the pads won't have much grip and will instead slide against the rim. <S> Plus, if any cracks begin to separate while riding, parts of the pad may shear off and your braking ability will quickly degrade. <S> Since v-brake pads are relatively cheap you should invest in a new set and avoid any trouble. <S> Also, if the pads had been in a sealed package, they would still degrade, just much slower. <A> Aaron is correct. <S> Rubber by nature will age in any environment. <S> Even buying new is no guarantee you will get full life from rubber products. <S> If at all possible, check manufacturing dates before purchase. <S> Four years (shelf/use) is about the limit for effective performance. <S> I do tend to keep the old ones laying about for a few years after replacements have been mounted, but have not yet been guilty of putting old ones back on an active bicycle. <A> I recently had an emergency. <S> I was checking my bike over before loading on car & discovered a very worn v-brake pad. <S> Didn't have any spares on hand. <S> Looked through old parts & found old V-brake (about 12yrs old) with pads still attached. <S> Pulled the pads. <S> Pads were worn but had plenty of rubber left & did not feel hard. <S> Put these on my bike & went for 2 hour ride. <S> Brakes worked fine. <S> While age might eventually cause a pad to perform poorly, it will probably take a really long time. <S> Also,, while I've cleaned & removed embedded bits from by current road bike's pads, I've never replaced the pads after many years of service (seldom need to use brakes on most of my road rides). <S> So,, I'd use an old package of "new" pads without hesitation.
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Usually brake pads tend to "dry" over time, turning less flexible and prone to cracks.
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How to measure chainring / cog wear? Other than attempting to estimate whether a chainring or cog is worn and needs replaced by eyballing it, is there any way to measure the wear on chainrings or cassette cogs so you can determine whether they should be replaced? What tools can be used to accomplish this? <Q> And of course there is visual inspection and also how it rides and indexes, particularly under heavy load (when it will usually slip if worn). <A> Because there exist so many cassette styles and tooth profiles, no universal tool for measuring cassette wear exists. <S> One good advice to assist visual inspection is this. <S> We all have our favorite speeds. <S> Compare the most worn 2-3 cogs with the rest. <S> If their profile is very different, the cassete is probably worn. <S> The video documents how to do that. <S> There are many variables in determining whether you have a worn chainring or cassette. <S> Visual inspection helps and noting the kilometres racked up should also help. <S> If you have set up your mech's correctly you will know you have wear when your chain starts to skip, especially under load. <S> Visual inspection should then confirm your wear. <S> Park Tools do a CHAIN <S> wear tool <S> [CC-2] <S> but that will not determine cassette or chainring wear. <S> When replacing a cassette you should always replace the chain. <S> Worn chains will reduce the life of cassettes and chainrings considerable due to the chain being worn to the form of the previous cassette/chainring. <S> Here is a video of the pro's confirming the above: Hope this helps. <A> Not an easy solution, but you can use a photocopier to measure wear on chainrings. <S> This doesn't tend to work with cassettes cos they're thicker. <S> First, remove the worn chainring from the bike, and clean it well to keep oils off the copier's glass and undercover. <S> Then photocopy it at 1:1 size. <S> Flip the chainring and lay it on top of your copy, so that the bolt holes align. <S> There will be at least one position where the teeth line up. <S> Then trace around the rear of a tooth. <S> Remove chainring and visually compare the overlaps, and then use a caliper to measure the differences for a numeric result. <A> ANSI standards for industrial chains are that a sprocket should be replaced when the depth of the erosion along the tooth (x) has reached a value equal to 10 percent of the tooth width (Y) across the pitch diameter (PCD) <S> This would roughly translate into 0.5 mm, probably impossible to measure while the cassette is on the wheel. <S> A better way is to compare your old sprockets to new ones, when you clean your ageing cassette. <S> Keeping in mind that sprocket wear is inversely proportional to the cog count, I'd suggest focusing on the 13T-15T-17T (or so) sprockets. <A> A few distinct camps appear here, regarding how and whether it is feasible to adequately measure cassette cog and chainring wear. <S> The Rohloff tool looks to be basically an eight link chain bit attached to a small lever arm with the short end effectively adding another link-lengthed arm that is positioned so as to provide force on the chain segment. <S> I would think this is little different, really, from a regular cassette sprocket tool, which might be finagled into position to check the same concept, as long as the chain portion is not old and worn. <S> As shown with chain wear tools, there are often other methods that indirectly measure things like wear, by indirect but sufficiently accurate means for normal use. <S> Wrapping a section of chain around a suspect cog and applying tension should be fairly easy to do, and the principle that a worn cog will not allow more than five pins to move in and out without binding, seems crude, yet the concept automatically incorporates the wear into something observable and apparent, while measuring tiny surface changes is exceedingly tedious and prone to error. <S> http://uniortools.com sells their version with a regular bit of HG chain used as the checking segment, so there is nothing magical or special about the Rohloff, or the concept itself. <S> In practice, I've seen folks intentionally ride chains and cogsets about twenty years past due, and while they had to fight chain hop and shifting issues, they could still ride the bike. <S> The fear over a calamitous event is likely a waste of energy; if you regularly clean and lube chains, replace before the wear point is passed, every five to ten years you might eventually reach a point where a new chain starts misbehaving on an older cassette, when pedaling hard. <S> Just replace your cassette then, before putting too many miles on the new chain, and you're good for another five to ten years. <S> Do not overthink the problem.
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Put the old sprocket on top of a new one (you have to purchase a replacement anyway, so buy one as a reference until the old one is worn) and inspect visually to appreciate the amount of wear at the back of the cog. There are tools such as the Rohloff HG-check for measuring cassette wear.
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Dropped the Wedge of a quill stem in the head tube Trying to remove a seized quill stem and did a beginner's mistake of removing the stem bolt.I could not thread back the bolt. Is there a better way to thread back the bolt to the wedge for me to start all over again the process of removing the quill stem? Thanks <Q> Have you tried removing the stem <S> so you have better access to the wedge? <S> Often if you do that you can screw the bolt in and pull the wedge out, then reassemble it away from the bike. <S> The other approach is to again lift the stem out, remove the front wheel, then turn the bike over and push the wedge out from the fork side. <S> If you have a front mudguard you will need to remove that too, but almost always the bottom of the steerer tube is open so you can get the stem bolt or another long, thin object against the wedge and push it out that way. <S> You may need to hammer it a bit, so preferably use a long punch or spare bolt, rather than the stem bolt that you need to make it all work. <A> When I made the same error I took the whole handlebar assembly off, removed the long bolt, tied some string firmly round it, and lowered it into the hole. <S> With an Allen key (using tension on the string to keep the Allen key and bolt together) I then had just enough length to reach the wedge. <S> Screwed the bolt in a bit, and out it all came. <A> If you have managed to remove the bars then reassemble outside the bike and insert stem and wedge loosely assembled. <S> Sometimes you can use a long bolt from underneath - remove front wheel and mudguard as Mo suggests - to engage the threads and hold the wedge in place while you put the retaining bolt down as normal.
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If you have not managed to remove the stem then you need to invert the bike and get the wedge arranged and then insert the bolt through the top (that is now on the bottom).
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How can I get a bike mechanic certification/where can I learn to be a bike mechanic? I'm interested in becoming a bike mechanic in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. I'm hoping there's an industry body which runs courses to certify bike mechanics. I'm really hoping it's not just learn on the job from an existing mechanic because I've had a really bad experience with local mechanics lately they don't have a clue what customer service is when I buy from them and need a return. Are there any courses or certifications to become a bike mechanic? <Q> http://www.bicycletrainingaustralia.com.au/ is supported by the City of Melbourne. <S> They provide Advanced Bicycle Mechanic Training. <A> I'll tackle the question of where you can learn. <S> Do an online seach and find out if you have a bike co-op nearby. <S> Most decently sized US cities have them. <S> They're a great resource where you can just show up one day per week and learn everything there is to know about bikes (and meet some cool people while you're at it). <S> Specifically for you: http://www.thebikeshed.org.au/default.aspx <A> In Germany, there's the "Zweiradmechaniker", which is taught like any other craft, i.e. you learn it from an existing mechanic. <S> You don't need to have this education to open a bike store though.
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In the UK, Cytech are the most recognised body; Contact them and ask if they're aware of an equivalent organisation in Australia.
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What is the difference between a freewheel and a hub? I think these are both just types of cassettes, one all the rings come apart, and the other it's just one big piece all welded together. Can someone please tell me what the difference is? <Q> The hub is the body at the center of the wheel containing the axle. <S> It is more or less just some bearings in a pair of cups that rotate around the axle. <S> The freewheel is the mechanism that locks when pedaling forward (forcing the wheel to be driven by the chain) and spins freely when coasting or pedaling backward. <S> Both wheels have hubs, but only the rear wheel has a freewheel. <S> These are two variations on freewheel design, taken from the Wikipedia article linked above: <S> On most modern bikes with multiple gears, the freewheel is built into the rear hub and the whole assembly is called a freehub . <S> The cassette is just a set of gears bolted together, without any moving parts, that slides onto the hub and is held in place with a lockring. <S> On older bikes, the hub was just a hub with some threads on one side. <S> Single speed bikes are still (typically, though variations exist) built like older bikes, with the freewheel and the gear being one piece and screwing onto the hub. <S> If you want to read more, the Freehub article that I linked to on Wikipedia has a section comparing freewheels and freehubs. <S> The ever helpful Sheldon Brown also has a very detailed article (which the above photo was taken from) outlining the difference between freehubs and freewheels. <A> Perhaps you are not asking the question that you think you are. <S> See here for the difference between a cassette and a freewheel. <S> A hub is the center point of the wheel that the freewheel or cassette attaches to. <S> And sorry if I misinterpreted your question. <A> One point not mentioned is the location of the bearings in the hubs. <S> The more advanced free hub design has the sprocket side bearing much closer to the frame's dropout than the freewheel type. <S> What this means is, with more distance between the bearing and frame dropout, the axle on a freewheel hub is more likely to bend than the more advanced free hub type.
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The freewheel was built into the rear gear cluster and that whole assembly screwed onto the hub.
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Direction of chain whip Is there an easy way of working out which way round to apply a chain whip to a cassette for its removal? I've taken plenty of them off in my time but always end up having a couple of tries at it before I put it on the right way round. <Q> Not something I do often enough to worry about, but certainly a 'problem' I also have.... <S> One solutiojn that comes to mind is write "Install" and "Remove" in the side of the handle you can see when installing and removing <S> (My luck would be I would get it wrong way round). <A> The easiest thing may be to just think of it as applying the same exact force that you would be if you were riding the bike... <A> To quote Park Tool :"Hold cogs in clockwise direction with sprocket chain whip tool. <S> Turn remover counter-clockwise, using a large adjustable wrench, the hex end of another Park Tool sprocket chain whip tool SR-1, or the Park Tool freewheel wrench FRW-1. <S> It will require force to remove the lockring. <S> Expect to hear a loud clicking sound as the locking teeth of the lockring separate." <S> Though I think actually doing the task enough times would instill it <S> (kinda like how "righty tighty, lefty loosy" gets instilled in your mind eventually, without the little mnemonic). <A> The other way (for me as a righty) is to use the primary (right hand) on the lockring tool and use the left hand on the chainwhip. <S> You're always facing the cassette from the right side of the bike, so the chainwhip is up from behind. <S> Or treat it like a USB port <S> ... try and if it doesn't work, stop and flip it, try again, and repeat till it works.
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I stick the lockring remover in and undo it, see which way the cassette turns, and then put the whip on to stop that rotation.
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How important is a heart-rate monitor? How important is a Heart Rate Monitor when cycling for weight loss? I have an old Everlast HRM watch, but it cannot display the average HR after a workout. I am using RunKeeper to track my rides and I have noticed that it has a field for average HR. Thanks <Q> The short annswer is not at all important. <S> People trained and got fit for decades without heart rate monitors. <S> Current thoughs in some camps is to dump heart rate altogether. <S> The drive for it comes down from pro level sports to trainers and manufacturers selling 'extras'. <S> Unless you know you maximum heart rate (The 220-age formula is wrong as often as its right - do not use it), a monitor gives little useful information, and is more likely to put you wrong. <S> You also need your aerobic threshold for it to anything more than marginally useful. <S> Its very hard to establish aerobic threshold without knowing average heart rate, but you also need to know a lot more than just average..... <S> You should use the watch during training to ensure you are in your target bands- <S> just look at the watch occationally. <S> The proviso is that you can accurately establish the correct heart rate bands. <A> Are you at risk of a heart attack? <S> If so it is probably useful. <S> Seriously, I have a (mid-fifties) friend whose doctor advised him that everybody "over a certain age" should wear a HRM when they exercise. <S> Also, there is a regime of training that is heart-rate-based. <S> Clearly if you subscribe to this, then you will need a heart rate monitor to see how you're doing. <S> But there are also regimes which emphasise cadence, or power, or probably other parameters too. <S> So heart rate is not the only metric by which to judge "progress". <S> But since you say you're cycling for weight loss, would it be fair to say that none of these specific metrics interests you (yet)? <S> In which case, I wouldn't get too stressed about not having a HRM. <S> If what you want is weight loss, getting on the bike in the first place will start to achieve that. <S> One thing I would say - and I am someone who started cycling to achieve weight loss, and who has worn a HRM since the start - is that by measuring things like heart rate data over time, you get to know how your body is working, <S> what its limitations are, how your fitness is improving etc., which can be useful. <S> But is it useful enough to go buy an HRM? <S> Well, that's really your call. <S> (After all, <S> if all <S> you're interested in <S> is weight loss, then a set of scales will suffice!) <S> Lastly I'd echo what @Batman says - <A> You'll have to explore their website to figure out which one is compatible with your cellphone and app version. <S> I use Abvio's Cyclemeter along with a Polaris bluetooth HRM and Wahoo cadence+speed sensor. <S> I find that it's usually a big pain to use the HRM and just go with the cadence + speed, which is more important for me. <S> Part of what you want to do is to increase your distance and effort over time. <S> You can also look into power meters that hook into your rear hub <S> but they are considerably more expensive.
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For someone just wanting to get fit and loose some weight, heartrate monitoring is usually an interesting distraction. If you have a trainier, averages, time in band etc might help them tune your training program, but if you had a trainer, they would tell you if this is needed. if you think there's any cardio risk with you jumping on a bike in the first place, you should really consult your doctor before doing so. If you use a bluetooth or ANT+ heartrate monitor, you can plug that data right into your app.
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What's a safer alternative to a flag for marking special bikes? Every year I marshal a family ride organized by my local cycling campaign. As it's targeted at people who don't cycle long distances, the main job of the marshals is to offer help to people with mechanical problems, as well as to give them confidence they're following the right route. To make us more visible among the huge crowd of bikes, we carry flags, like this: Picture courtesy of Mike Clark These flags are very effective and visible, but have some problems:- They tend to fwap people in the face. Most of the ride is on cycle tracks, and if a wind blows from your left, the flag flaps out to the right, taking the whole width of the track and inconveniencing oncoming riders or pedestrians. The bamboo canes sometimes snap if we go under low signs or tree branches too fast. Part of the route is lined with high brambles. If the flag rubs against the brambles, they tug at it, pulling the bike off-balance (and this can snap the cane too). If you stop riding in a tail wind, the flag envelops you and you can't see anything until you start moving again. They also help a little with publicity, as passers-by always stop and ask us what the flag is for and where we're all going. (The design of the flag itself is irrelevant: the one pictured here happens to be the county flag of Northumbria, but all the marshals have random flags.) Is there a way to improve on this design, removing one or more of these problems without making the marshals less visible? HV jackets just won't cut it: you can't see one HV jacket in a dense crowd from more than about 20 m away. Besides, some normal cyclists wear them, which could cause confusion. Rigid flags won't work either, even if they're shorter: there are parts of the route where even the riders have to duck under low branches. <Q> I couldn't find a photo online, but the flag is about a 1~1.5 meters tall, and the poll runs up the whole length of it. <S> It is then about a half meter wide. <S> There is very little flapping around and nothing loose to blow in faces and get tangled up. <S> I came across them driving <S> so I can say they make you visible. <S> I have seen businesses use them before for advertising signs in windy locations. <S> Here is a image from Wikipedia. <S> It is called a vertical flag on it, the type I'm describing is 3. <S> ( image credit ) <A> Despite editing this down I could make it into a comment (plus:pictures), so here are some ideas: <S> You need height for visibility as you implied - maybe a bamboo cane to a bit over head height then something <S> more flexible (springy wire, I can't quite think of what <S> but I know I've seen something recently). <S> You could bend this to give you some stiffening pointing backwards making it less likely to blow in your face. <S> I guess a neat spring mounting to allow the flag to be pulled down and back under a branch would be too risky for a close follower. <S> Alternatively: helmet plumes: <S> You duck your head anyway if the branch or whatever is that low. <S> Note <S> though, I'm used to (non-cycling) events where the organisers are in fancy dress or at least distinctive hats) (Images from: http://images.cdn.fotopedia.com/flickr-4629855353-hd.jpg https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d2/Cavalry_Trooping_the_Colour,_16th_June_2007.jpg ) <A> Print t shirts. <S> It's what festivals and bands do, and it's cheap. <S> If you want them to stand out pick an unusual colour, but regardless, print something big on the back and front. <S> If you're already selling ride t shirts, use those but make the helper ones stand out with coloured sleeves, long sleeves, or a different colour. <S> Use lights. <S> Buy a bunch of cheap yellow or orange LED blinkies and put a couple on each helper bike. <S> Use better flags. <S> Flags don't have to be flexible - Bob Stuart in the US uses a rigid tailfin with a vertical pivot to good effect, and you could get the same effect using a flagpole and a strip of (semi)rigid plastic sheet. <S> Coreflute (corrugated cardboard made of plastic) is common in advertising signs and most commercial printers can easily deal with it. <S> Or you can paint it. <S> Use smaller, vertical flags. <S> Flags also don't have to be quite that big, you'll probably find that head height and 20cm deep works just as well. <S> Maybe a taller flag on the ride leader so they can be easily identified in a crowd. <S> Use sound. <S> Buy some cheap piezo beepers and give all the helpers one. <S> They don't have to run continuously, and if you pick one of the silly "kid's bike horn" ones you'll have a variety of tunes to choose from. <S> Or mount a proper sound system. <S> Use distinctive bikes. <S> Tall bikes will obviously stand out hugely, but even fat tyre cruisers are pretty noticeable. <S> Or use load bikes, so that the fitter regular cyclists have a handicap to help them ride slowly. <S> And recumbents, especially velomobiles, stand out a lot. <A> Find some recreation types who could make you a Sashimono ? <S> What's the budget, if any, for buying commercial off-the-shelf Cycle Campaign advertising flags (could perhaps be re-used at desk outside Guildhall or similar events)?Something like http://www.printlit.co.uk/expo/beach-flag/backflag/eco From http://www.bannershop.co.uk/products/teardrop_wind_flag.htm <S> "Other commonly used names for this product are beach banners, free-standing flags, wind flags, promotional flags, advertising flags, custom printed flags, or retail flags." <A> Being small and lightweight it will practically eliminate the problem with side winds, a bike light is usually designed to be mounted on a seat tube, so you don't have to do any bizarre engineering there. <S> Also you can use them for the regular purpose when not marshaling, thus cutting expenses. <S> (Seeing it the other way, you can just borrow lights from people not riding that day) <S> I recommend using "fresh" PVC in of 1/2 inch nominal size, since it is very flexible. <S> I Insist that the PVC has to be fresh, I mean newly fabricated, because this material tends to loose flexibility over time. <S> If you decide to use it, just test it before installing in the bike bi trying to bend it by hand. <S> You should be able to bend it enough to make a semi circle with a length of 2 meters. <S> If it's not possible, better not use it (it may be old and brittle). <S> When not in use store it in a cold place where it's not hit by sunlight nor sun/heat radiation. <S> On the funny side, the bike will look like a police patrol motorcycle, childish but awesome!
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I suggest simply installing a couple of rear bike lights (the red flashing type) on top of a moderate length of PVC. At the very least 1 or more streamer (like wide ribbons) would be less likely to snag than a large flag, as well as being less of a shock if it gets someone in the face. Some local recumbent users have a different style flag on their bikes rather than the rectangle or the pennant. Like BPugh says, vertical flags will probably work better.
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Rebuilding a rear wheel My rear hub is damaged. I have not yet inspected the source of the damage, but the wheel is moving sideways when rotating (a LOT), plus I rode it like this for about 35km. Therefore, I find it probable to soon need to replace the hub. The rim and spokes are new (couple of months of commuting). I suppose I wouldn't be running in the "old spokes new hub" problem. I know that rear wheels are dished . Also, I have trued rims, using V-brake as a guide. I would like to do the repair (replace the hub) myself. However, I do not own a truing stand, neither a spoke tension wrench, and find those quite pricy to purchase just for this one job. Here I found a gem of an explanation of how to do it. Here it is concluded that without the tools, this is impossible. Here it is mentioned that experience can substitute the tools (I have none, unfortunately). My question is " is this doable ". The wheel is the cheapest around, so ruining it won't be a big deal. The wheel will be tested on a commuter bike, and not for some off-road dangerous activities. Edit: So I inspected the wheel and the hub is just fine. However, I have 4 broken spokes, manly loose ones, and the wheel is out of true. Sounds easy to fix! Edit: Thanks for the discussion. I think I will purchase 24 cheap spokes and see what happens, for the learning experience. Maybe next month there will be a question around "how do I replace my rim". Also, thanks for the references: Sheldon Mike T <Q> This is very doable! <S> I'm midway though building my fourth and fifth wheels for my own bikes from scratch with no more than an upside down bike, the internet and a spoke key (or screwdriver to begin with). <S> There are a number of different lacing patterns to choose from depending on your own preference and possibly the length of spoke available to you. <S> There are also a number of websites which will tell you what length the spokes will need to be, though in this case you can just measure the existing ones. <S> Definitely don't by cheap spokes (unless they are good quality spokes for a great price). <S> My third wheel lasted less than one day because two spokes snapped within 20 miles. <S> but my first two wheels are still good after 500 miles with no adjustment required (using ACI plain guage spokes). <S> Once you start getting towards tension (you can pretty much feel how tight they should be from a built wheel) focus primarily on any vertical movement before lateral as this is much more difficult to correct when at full tension. <S> Put the wheel under tension before assuming its completed. <S> When I think I'm true I squeeze the spokes together with my hands, and check true again. <S> Then I attach the wheel to a bike and walk it around whilst applying some pressure to either the seat or handlebars depending on the wheel and check true again. <S> THEN I go for a ride around a car park and, you guessed it! <S> Check true again! <S> Its not a hugely difficult task to complete, but a very difficult one to perfect. <A> Basically it's doable, but as mentioned in comments to question, it's very hard to make it good. <S> However there are tools that you can make yourself, see <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html .There <S> you have also a good guide to build a wheel. <S> I'd suggest to replace any damaged spoke. <A> When you are able to build and true your own wheels you will learn that a $100.00 bike with $1000.00 wheels is better than a $1000.00 bike with $100.00 wheels. <A> You can get reasonably close by pitch <S> and ear (pluck the spokes and listen to the pitch). <S> If you have a ear that doesn't hear pitch there is a nice iPhone app called Spoke Tension Gauge that does the job for like $5 US.
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It could be that this was down to a poor build Getting the spoke tensions high & even is on of the most important things – balanced tension makes the wheel stable, high tension keeps the loads on the wheel structure fairly constant as it rolls which helps to prevent spoke breakage. Study sheldon brown's wheelbuilding site,sounds like this will be a learning experience for you,patience is the key as you learn to build wheels.
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Are there front looking mirror options? I have the standard drop handlebars on my road bike. When I'm in the lower position, my head is pointing down so my eyes are looking at the road and my front tire. Looking forward requires me to tilt my head up to an awkward angle and I often get a kink in my neck after a longish ride. Are there mirrors available which I could mount on my bike which would provide me a front facing view while still keeping my head down? <Q> Yes, they exist, though they are expensive and meant for racing rather than for general purpose riding on regular roads. <S> One example is the View Speed Cyclops glasses. <S> They take a lot of getting used to but in the arcane world of time-trial racing they have their adherents. <A> I would be very tempted to say that your bike isn't setup correctly for you. <S> It shouldn't cause any back/neck issues after a long ride (although you don't say how long that is). <S> To answer your question- <S> I am unaware of any mirrors, and this seems like it would be a very dangerous way to ride your bike. <A> I looked for something like this and couldn't find anything, so I manufactured my own using a mirror, glass cutter, an old bike light frame with a hose clamp to attach it to the handlebars, and some construction adhesive. <S> I used aluminum channel for trim around it and it worked quite well until someone stole my bike <S> so now I have to make another.
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If you handlebars/stem is of the correct length/height, then you shouldn't have any issues seeing in front of you- nor pains in these areas.
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Road bikes rim brake or disc brake I am about to buy a new Road bike and there seems to be a host new road bikes with disc brakes, I've had a Mountain bike with disc and it's fine, just wondering what the pros and cons of having a road bike with discs apart from the looks, should I stick with the traditional proven rim brake or have a more in depth look at disc brakes as the industry seems to be inclining towards discs.. I will not be changing bikes for at least 3 years so want to make the right decision. Any experiences from roadies who have used disc brakes would be welcome as well as your opinions. Many ThanksSavio <Q> I have a road/gravel bike with a disk front brake and there are almost no downsides for solo riding from my experience. <S> Pros: <S> Much more flexibility is choosing wheel size and tire. <S> I can run fat tire 650b wheels or skinny 700c wheels. <S> Much better braking in wet conditions, braking in dry conditions is similar, but with better control (i.e. modulation). <S> Easier to get wheels off when you have a flat. <S> Most are either self-adjusting for pad wear or have a simple finger adjustment. <S> Cons: <S> Slightly heavier wheels and brakes. <S> Rotors get hot, brake fade is a possibility if you consistently drag the brake. <S> Long steep descents take some "brake heat" management. <S> This can also be an issue with rim brakes, but generally it takes a much longer descent and more abuse to cause problems with rim brakes. <S> Hydro brakes have more mechanical complexity, difficult to impossible to make on the road repairs. <S> I use wire disk brakes on my road bike with no issues. <S> Putting the wheel back on is a bit more fiddly. <S> If you ride in a group often, there are some safety issues around hot rotors and potential crashes. <A> I currently ride a "hybrid" bike- which is flat handlebars, narrow (28mm) tyres with disc brakes. <S> I also have a road bike (23mm tyres) with standard rim brakes. <S> I would say that the disc brakes give me a lot more confidence in the wet. <S> Rim brakes in wet conditions are terrible, taking at least 3x the distance to stop- even with maximum power applied. <S> The reason that professionals haven't made the jump to discs is 2 fold: <S> Weight of the disc brakes- <S> this will get better, but currently its ahuge factor <S> Legal issues regarding the bike rules/regulations arecurrently stopping them <S> So I would say, as long as you don't mind the weight- and realize that there is a lot less choice of wheels, then go disc! <A> There is no compelling reason for using disk brakes on a standard road bike, unless you cycle in unusual conditions. <S> Rim brakes are cheaper, lighter, simpler, less hassle when changing tires, easier to repair in the field. <S> Of course, as always the "gee whiz" factor is a major consideration for many people, and disk brakes are niftier and sexier. <A> I think that in 2 years every "high-end" bike will have disk brakes and electric gears. <S> Disk Brakes are currently still in production testing for the Pro Bike Teams. <S> In Belgium the Belgian Cycling Committee is talking about allowing this for Pro Bike Teams.
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Traditionally, disk or drum brakes have sometimes been used on tandems and heavy mountain touring bikes, because they can provide more total braking force, but these are conditions that few cyclists experience in "normal" riding.
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26" vs 28" wheels for touring I was told by a friend that 26" wheels are better than 28" wheels for touring. Is this true? What are the pro's and con's? I'm told that 26" wheels are stronger for their spoke count. What are the practical implications of this? Are there other reliability concerns? and how much of a concern/win are they? Does one size have an advantage in terms of ease of carrying a heavy load? Does one have an advantage in terms of the sorts of terrain it can traverse? Some context : We're going on a 800km trip in southern Germany and I'm looking to acquire a decent bike for this trip, and hopefully many other such trips (potentially more adventurous ones too). I basically just want to pick up a good base bike that I slowly build on and figure that I should invest in a frame that supports the right size of tires from the start. <Q> I'd say that for loaded touring the place to start is tires, not wheel size. <S> You need a bike that can accommodate larger tires. <S> 32mm at a minimum and 40 <S> + if you plan to travel on dirt roads or take on very heavy loads. <S> In theory if you build a 26" wheel and a 28" wheel with the same rim and spoke type/count, the 26" wheel will be stronger. <S> But there are plenty of people touring with 28" wheels. <S> The most important thing is to get a frame that fits you and has a comfortable geometry. <S> If you're less than 170cm or so in height, 26" wheels might make more sense on a bike that small. <S> Look at bikes that are built for touring and see what their specs are in terms of geometry and wheel size. <S> Look at the specs for this bike <S> http://surlybikes.com/bikes/long_haul_trucker <S> In the smaller sizes it comes with 26" wheels and 28" wheels in the larger sizes. <A> For reference for non-Germans, 28" means 700c. <S> Most touring bikes do ship with 700c wheels these days (for not short riders - short riders often get 26" or 650b wheels) and they work fine for people - <S> the key is to have well built wheels for touring (for loaded touring, this means high spoke counts, good spokes and rims and hubs and the wheel being put together properly). <S> If you like a good touring bike which comes in 26" for your size but not 700c, then get the 26". <S> Likewise, if you only have the 700c option, get it. <S> This choice should mean good bike fit and decent quality components. <S> So, I think the answer for all of them is pretty much a wash - you can find a good wheel which works in either size for almost everybody. <S> Note that you want big tires for touring, so <S> the air cushions you, but touring frames generally have this built in. <A> Great article about the pros and cons. <S> The writer chose a 28" (700c) bike for single bike, and 26" for the tandem bike. <S> 700c vs 26inch Wheel Size for Touring
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It's generally easier to find a 26" wheeled bike that can take larger tires, but if you find a 28" bike that can accommodate larger tires that will work fine as well. Wheel size is the last thing you should be worrying about.
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How do I tell the size of my braking discs? Looking to replace my hydraulic disc brakes but intend to use the old discs. How do I tell the size of the discs to ensure I purchase the right brakes? <Q> The disc that you are talking about is in fact called the rotor. <S> Rotor size is measured by diameter, ie. edge to edge through the centre. <S> There are a number of common IS (International Standard) sizes of rotor from 140mm through to 203mm. <S> Callipers only come in one size but use various adapters/spacers to fit the rotor. <S> Once you know what rotor you have you purchase a new brake set which may or may not include the adapter you need. <S> Your current brake callipers would use the right size adapter for the rotor you are using, but may not be right for the brake you wish to purchase, companies have proprietary systems for attaching the calliper such as Avid's CPS which require special adapters or spacers. <S> Additionally there are two types of mounts for callipers post and IS. <S> Most callipers are made to use post mounts while most frames still have IS mounts on the real dropout. <S> An IS mount is like a fin with two holes in it while a post mount is two posts. <S> IS adapters are used to allow the calliper to be fastened to the bike. <S> Most recent forks are post mount. <A> It is usually marked at the rotor. <S> Check that first. <A> As DWGKNZ says you could measure these. <S> Alternatively, you could search online for your bike make/model & look at the specification. <S> This would save you the time of taking the wheel off and measuring (and note front/back might be different sizes). <S> This assumes that it has not been changed since you bought the bike.
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The size may also be etched on to the rotor which would be more accurate than measuring yourself.
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What to look for in a bicycle meant for the exercise? I do not need the bicycle for daily commuting or mountain climbing.I need the bicycle for morning and evening exercise and just for roaming around in order to get some fresh air. I also want a smooth ride on non-smooth roads. I am a female. What to look for in a bicycle meant for the above described needs? Budget: 103$ Country: India Update I searched for and found the following bicycles with suspensions. They fall near about $ 103. http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-atom/Technical-Specifications http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hercules/hybrid-/hercules-rebellio-619/Technical-Specifications http://www.choosemybicycle.com/in/en/bicycles/hero/mtb/hero-ranger-dtb-vx-2013/Technical-Specifications How do I know whether they are comfortable for exercise and roaming around? Regarding exercise: I am an underweight female so loosing weight is not my goal.I wish to get mentally fit and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored. They say physical exercise is necessary to get rid of depression.Hence I chose to cycle out. What to look for in a bicycle meant for the exercise? The most important thing is that it be the right size for you, and after that you appear to want a "relaxed", upright posture rather than a "racing" posture. For that an inexpensively-built "city bike" (such as Andy's illustration) or perhaps a "hybrid" is probably the best choice. Are the bikes shown above hybrid? <Q> I am an underweight female so loosing weight <S> is NOT my goal. <S> I wish to get mentally fit <S> and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored. <S> They say physical exercise is necessary to get rid of depression. <S> Hence I chose to cycle out. <S> First and most important is the depression. <S> Try them all. <S> The one that makes you feel giddy and excited is the one to get. <S> Pleasure, smiling, laughter, and exercise all release endorphins which help depression. <S> Get the one that will not only give you exercise but also make you feel great! <S> This is also how you will know if it is comfortable and fits you. <S> wish to get mentally fit <S> and therefore I wish to tire myself out without getting bored <S> This is best done by picking difficult challenges that you enjoy. <S> It could be getting a BMX bike and working to learn one trick after another. <S> It could be setting a speed goal for yourself that really forces you to push yourself. <S> It could be any number of things. <S> Just set challenging goals and surround yourself with others that will push you to reach them. <S> I am an underweight female so loosing weight is NOT my goal. <S> Eat more. <S> Seriously. <S> Any exercise will cause a little weight loss and if you're really looking to challenge yourself mentally then that means more than a leisure ride. <S> That means more calories. <S> You'll have to learn what the right amount to eat is to not lose weight <S> and then you can decide if you want to eat more to put on weight. <S> My feeling <S> The bike you chose looks odd to me <S> but if it makes you happy it also looks versatile and fun. <S> I could see taking to some trails and little jumps on it. <S> Otherwise the more I write the more I'm inclined to suggest a smaller BMX bike like: <S> You can generally find them pretty cheap (not this model but other ones). <S> They're incredibly durable. <S> Relaxing for when you do want those roaming around trips, but can also be pushed for the fitness side. <S> And learning a new trick or jump will burn less calories so you don't lose weight. <S> Loads of fun too! <A> Very hard to answer without knowing your budget. <S> I would suggest a hybrid style bike. <S> They have an upright riding position and geometry designed for comfort over speed (road racer) or agility (MTB). <S> They have largish tires to absorb the minor bumps. <S> Look at a bike with 29" (700C) wheels and at least 1.5" <S> (35mm) tires for the smoother ride you want. <S> The closest you will get is a high end Cross country Mountain bike with full suspension. <S> However, I would not recommend it (depending on how bumpy you are talking about), as the cost/weight penalty is high, and even the best can only increase comfort so much. <S> If you are worried about seat comfort, several things can be done. <S> Large, plush saddles can get uncomfortable over longer distances and cause chaffing, so are not always the answer. <S> I suggest visiting you <S> Local bike shop (LBS) and talking to them. <S> Stay away from Chains stores if you can afford to. <S> Re Your Update:All those bikes look like they will be more trouble than they are worth. <S> The complexity of full suspension combined with a bike in that price bracket is a recipe for a very unpleasant experience. <S> The bike will be heavy and hard to ride, especially with no gears. <S> I would suggest something more like the Hercules Arrow 6spd <A> In your question you say nothing about your fitness level, or expected riding speeds / distances. <S> If you are reasonably fit, and want to ride, say 10km in half an hour (20kph), then I would certainly agree with mattnz's answer . <S> But when you say just for roaming around , I hear requirements more like those of my wife: <S> In many places, this is called a Dutch Bike, or City Bike. <S> Some people just call them ladies shopping bikes. <S> Under the (ladies) <S> seat there are springs to cushion your ride. <S> In the picture the seat is unusually low; normally it would be at least 10cm higher. <S> While I know nothing of prices in India, I suspect that you will need to aim for a second hand bike. <S> As others have said, do go your LBS to see what your possibilities are.
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You are looking for a "smooth ride over non-smooth roads" - presumably for comfort - one of the holy grail of cycles. You should really go to a bike shop and hop on a few different bikes and styles. The main concern I have with your requirements is your budget. Suspension seat posts an help, but a woman's specific saddle would be my first recommendation.
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Insurance for carless cyclist in California I am a bike commuter without a car in California, that seems to be such an unusual combination that it is difficult to find insurance. I have health + disability insurance, my bike is worth less than $1000. I don't own property and don't have a homeowner's or renter's insurance, nothing worth to steal. I'd like to get liability protection for the case that I cause an accident. What type of insurance do I need? Am I overlooking something else I need to insure against? Update: I talked to a couple of insurance companies (Allstate, Farmers, Geico) and asked for umbrella insurance, all of them were initially very dismissive of the idea to insure someone without a car. All three told me on the phone there was no way to get a non owners auto insurance, they absolutely needed the type of my non-existing car and the VIN.They also told me that you cannot get umbrella insurance if you don't have auto insurance. I doubt this, but that was the reply. I then looked into renter's insurance, and that does indeed cover liability for bike accidents, they confirmed this on the phone. I found an insurance broker, who offered me renters + umbrella for $655 per year.State Farm has a very high liability renters insurance for about $250 per year, both 1 million coverage. I am still doubtful if 1 million liability coverage is enough. In Germany you are required by law to have at least 7.5 mio Euro coverage for personal damage and 1 mio for property damage if you have a car, but that is the absolute minimum.Most insurance policies have a limit of 100 mio Euro. In principle the required product seems to be a renters insurance, or a non-owners car insurance for people who occasionally drive. The problem is that the insurance companies don't have much experience with the car-less cyclist and can't help much choosing the right product. <Q> I found one insurance that will be of interest for Germans: <S> The insurance broker OSD offers a liability insurance for German nationals that live temporarily abroad, for up to 5 years. <S> The insurance company is called BDAE - Bund der <S> Auslands-Erwerbstätigen, they work with Würzburger. <S> The liability explicitly covers bicycles "4. <S> aus dem <S> Besitz und dem <S> Gebrauch von Fahrrädern;". <S> It has 5 million Eur coverage and is much cheaper than the renters insurance, about 100 Eur per year. <S> I haven't yet received a written confirmation from the U.S. based insurance that they cover bicycle liability, I'll post it when I get it. <S> I am quite convinced that renters insurance would cover bike accidents, here is an older page with some good comments. <S> 303 Cycling news <S> Update: <S> I went with a German international liability insurance from Allianz. <S> It is valid for up to 5 years abroad (no time restrictions for the EU), and the clock is reset with every visit back. <S> They confirmed this in writing. <S> It costs about 90 Eur per year. <S> The max liability amount is 30 M Eur. <S> The U.S. renters insurance was State Farm, they confirmed on the phone that they would cover bike liability, but they never replied to me when I asked for a written confirmation. <S> It would have cost $270 for $2M coverage. <S> Many of the other insurance companies in the U.S. only offer relatively meager amounts of coverage (~ 100k), so <S> I would recommend a closer look at State Farm for anyone interested (please post an update in that case), I am certain that they would cover bike liability, I just did not want to dig through the insurance policy when they can't be bothered to reply. <A> Bob Mionske has been banging the insurance drum for years, and has a column from two years ago that links to an insurance product that's theoretically coming soon: http://www.bicyclelaw.com/road-rights/a.cfm/road-rights-just-in-case http://spokeinsurance.com/ Better World Club briefly offered such a service for bicycle members, but apparently discontinued it: http://www.betterworldclub.com/bicycles/bike_faq.cfm <S> American liability insurance requirements are far lower than those in Germany, unfortunately, because we have structured our society so that, outside a few major cities, just about every idiot out there needs to be able to drive in order to live a normal life. <S> California's minimum liability requirement is $15,000, which is exhausted in approximately 3 seconds in an American hospital: http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs%2Fbrochures/fast_facts/ffvr18.htm <A> If you go with Velosurance - we will cover damages for bodily injury or property damage for which an insured becomes legally liable through ownership, maintenance, use, loading or unloading of an insured bicycle. <S> When you fill out a quote form - you get to choose from "None", "$25,000" "$50,000" and "$100,000"
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You can get liability protection if you purchase a stand alone policy from a bicycle insurance company.
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Are Campagnolo and Shimano 11 speed chains interchangeable? I have an Athena 11 speed group set, but can get a good deal on the Shimano 9000 chain. Does anyone know of any reports of issues combining the two? <Q> Leonard Zinn has discussed Shimano and Campy 11-speed drivetrain compatibility several times in response to reader questions. <S> Technical FAQ: <S> Drivetrain compatibility for 10- and 11-speed <S> Technical FAQ: <S> Follow-up on 10- and 11-speed compatibility <S> Drivetrain compatibility hidden in plain sight <S> Although Zinn doesn't specifically address chain compatibility, I'm not sure how you could successfully mix drivetrain components if the chains were incompatible. <A> Campagnolo 11 speed chain are interchangable. <S> http://fitwerx.com/campagnolo-shimano-and-sram-11-speed-wheel-compatiblity <A> My company do work as a contractor for Campag but another part of my company also look after general mechanics training and so we are very familiar with Shimano, SRAM etc at all levels - <S> and if you asked if a Campag chain could be used with Shimano I'd say the same as the other way <S> about - yes, it'll work <S> but it won't work as intended or even as well as the proper item <S> - you will also be binning your warranty and if it all goes wrong <S> and you end up in hospital, don't even bother trying to sue either manufacturer ... <S> the same applies with KMC (here, KMC take up the liability, good luck with that if you ever need to call them to account) and SRAM - designed to work with SRAM of course ... <S> This is all completely normal and to be expected. <S> The days when you could mix and match with total impunity disappeared some while ago ...
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Read this article, all 11 speed cassette works with all Shimano, SRAM and Campagnolo drivetrain, meaning chain and RD and crankset, so the answer is the Shimano 11 speed chain and Given that all the manufacturers spend enormous amounts of time & money on R and D to make sure that all their parts are properly compatible and will behave exactly the way they want them to, it's crazy to mix and match.
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Is there a cycling equivalent to Naismith's rule After doing some training rides on courses without bigger ups and downs where I didn't make significant elevation gains, a recent ride was in more rough terrain. Of course, the relief changes the average speed one can achieve and I was wondering, if there are some rules of thumb to estimate the influence of the relief. From hiking I know there is Naismith's rule which allows to calculate the time needed for a certain route based on distance and elevation. I am aware of the fact that with cycling the rule would be less general and require more calibration depending on mountain vs. road bike different surfaces greater difference between uphill and downhill speeds. On outdoors.SX.com also someone presented a slightly different approach that translates different parameters (elevation gain, trail conditions etc.) into distance travelled, which could be another useful approach here. So my question is, is there some rule of thumb or a set of rules of thumb for cycling as well? <Q> As you have noted, the problem is slightly more complicated for a bicycle since aerodynamic drag is a larger component. <S> However, one can combine two rules of thumb which are given in these two bicycles.stackexchange answers ( How do I calculate power to climb a hill and How many miles of riding are equivalent to one mile of running ) to make an estimate of either speed or power on the flat and on climbs. <S> If you are only concerned about climbing the rule of thumb is simpler: on a steep hill, multiply the hill's gradient by your speed in km/h, then by ~ 3. <S> If you measure your speed in mph, multiply by 5 rather than 3. <S> That will give you a ballpark estimate of the watts <S> /kg you need to produce. <S> Since you're trying to calculate riding speed, just "solve backwards" given the equivalent power (in watts/kg) for a given slope. <A> For significant climbs, the VAM ( french? for meters climbed per hour ) is all you need to know. <S> If you know your VAM and the height of the climb, then that's how long the climb will take. <S> Road or MTB, it doesn't vary much in my experience unless the trail requires significant hike-a-bike. <S> Walking speeds just don't vary that much <S> so Naismith's rule generally works pretty well. <S> Biking speeds vary much more from rider to rider, so it's very hard to make any generally useful rules. <S> You can generalize Naismith's rule for bikes as follows: Time for ride = <S> (distance/average speed on flat ground) <S> + (Total Elevation gain/VAM ) Naismith's rule works so well because the two variables are fairly constant for hikers. <S> For bikers, you'll have to figure out what your avg. <S> speed and VAM are to estimate how long a ride will take. <A> Like said R.Chung, the wind can dramatically change the speed, and it's impossible to predict. <S> For my part, here's how I do for commuting in my city (so wind is blocked by building): <S> I enter in my favorite gps the from and to, and ask for an itinary using foot, then I take the total amount of kilometers, and I count roughly the time at 16/18/20 km/h. <S> 16 is without sweating 20 is in a hurry... <S> I'm on a city bike, often loaded, so ... <S> But even with that simple rule, if you're lost, the time will vary :)
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For flat roads where aerodynamic forces predominate, you will need to have a ballpark estimate of your "drag area" which mostly depends on your position on your bike.
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Is there a way to make activity wristbands read bike rides more accurately? Is there a way to make simple activity tracking wristbands like the fitbit work more accurately during a bike ride. Currently I wear the wristband on my wrist, but the rides tend to read like barely any exercise is occurring during these sessions. I believe these devices act more like a pedometer. Would wearing them on an ankle be more accurate? <Q> A decent amount of bike computers have bluetooth or ANT+ on them, which you can connect to your phone or whatever and read out (as a work around). <S> Apps like runkeeper can also track distance based on GPS roughly. <S> To quote the fitbit <S> people: <S> "All Fitbit trackers are optimized for walking, running, and general household and lifestyle activities. <S> It will not be as accurate for activities like biking, but will record steps if you wear your tracker. <S> For increased accuracy, go to http://www.fitbit.com/activities or click the "log activity" icon from your dashboard to manually log activities like cycling. <S> This will allow for a more accurate estimated calorie burn to be included in your daily totals. <S> Our online database of workouts makes it easy to save and access your favorite activities. <S> For detailed information see How do I log or record an activity?" <S> Wearing on ankle may work better, but you'd need to check against a cycling computer or something to see how it works. <A> I use the Misfit Shine <S> and it lets you specify the type of activity you are doing. <S> You configure it so that it knows what type of activity you are going to do (cycling). <S> I clip it to my sox and when you start cycling you have to tap it 3 times to tell it you are stating a ride. <S> It runs aboout 3 - 4 months on a battery (2032) and I have accidently run it through the washer and dryer with no ill effects. <S> It has a number of different ways to mount on your person. <A> I have found that they either tend to over record or totally under record- depending on the type of surface that I am cycling on. <S> I have found the best is just to add the activity manually on their website with the distance/time. <A> I put on a pair of socks, slip my Vivofit 2 inside the sock and wrap around my ankle. <S> It doesn't move <S> and I walk around or ride my bike <S> and it counts everything! <A> There seem to be a number of folks requesting Strava to integrate with fitbit directly, but it doesn't appear to be there yet. <S> https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/25993455-Fitbit-integration <S> From that page, somebody mentions Syncmetrics which might make syncing easier compared with manually entering the data into the fitbit site. <S> http://www.syncmetrics.com/ <A> I know that it inst accurate, but at least it record some "steps" :) Regards
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Alternatively, just use something else like Runkeeper or a bluetooth/ant+ cycling computer or enter stuff from your cycling computer in manually after a ride. If I'm going on longer bicycle ride, I simply put my Vivofit around ankle and secure it with sock.
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Gears slipping after a chain change I have a Lappierre Zesty 314 (2012). I'm running XT rear mech, an SLX front mech, my crank is XT, rear cassette is XT and XT chain. I went to the Forest of Dean and after the day was over I snapped my chain! I picked up a SRAM chain for my bike and now when I pedal hard it slips with a big bang. I have new Eastern Havens so my hub is fine. Can you help with any ideas to help me solve this? Shall I get a new rear cassette? <Q> Look up the proper chain for the components. <S> XT is not a size - that is the group level. <S> You should size the chain for the number of speeds (gears). <S> Inspect the cassette. <S> As they wear the teeth get sharper spaces get longer. <S> Visually compare it to a new cassette even if you are looking at a picture. <S> If your chain snapped then possible something else is damaged. <S> A cassette typically last 2-3 chains. <S> If you get a new cassette then change the chain. <S> A worn chain wears a cassette down faster. <S> And a worn cassette wears a chain down faster. <S> A chain is cheaper and easier to change so cheaper to stay with a fresh chain. <S> There are tools to measure chain stretch. <S> Replace a stretched chain. <S> A new chain on a worn cassette will jump - basically both the chain and cassette stretch. <A> Had the same problem. <S> Just rechecked and had a stiff link where I attached the new chain. <S> Hope that helps... <A> and/or chain-wheel. <S> This can be avoided by replacing the chain early, before major wear has taken place. <S> The snapped chain is problematic. <S> The break could have been caused by an extremely worn chain. <S> If the original chain had no master-link, it could be that the pin was not installed exactly as it should have been. <S> This pin could have popped out on a well worn chain. <S> If you still have the broken chain, re-install the chain, replacing the broken link with a quick-link (master-link). <S> Now, does the old chain slip? <S> (be careful during testing) <S> If the old chain does not slip & the new chain slips, then you will need to replace the cassette in order to use the new chain. <S> (one or more chain-wheels may need to be replaced also) <A> I replaced an old, barely skipping chain with a brand new one, and it skipped a lot more, right away. <S> I finally figured out that it was too long (by 3 links), but by this point, my two most commonly used sprockets had been worn down by all the slipping. <S> When I was looking around for this same answer a while back, I found most people talking about worn teeth/sprockets, narrow chains, and minor adjustments. <S> I think a properly sized chain is the best foundation for avoiding this problem, and should precede all the other troubleshooting steps. <S> (Yet again, Daniel R. Hicks has an accurate comment - it should be an answer, so <S> I'm making it one!) <S> Any chain sizing method can be used, but I used the following, and it worked well. <S> (From https://www.ilovebicycling.com/determine-bike-chain-length/ ) <S> Largest cog and largest chainring method <S> The easiest way to determinebike chain length is the largest cog to largest chainring method. <S> Once the old chain has been removed, shift the front derailleur to thelargest chainring, and the rear to the smallest. <S> Wrap the new chainaround the the largest chainring (at the rear), making sure that if thechain has an outer plate, it is routed toward the front chainring. <S> Pass the chain through the front derailleur cage and onto the largestfront chainring. <S> Hold chain at the 5 o’clock position. <S> If you areusing a masterlink chain, install half the masterlink onto the frontend of the chain to account for the extra half link the master linkprovides. <S> Pull the lower section of the chain snug towards the frontchainring, bypassing the derailleur altogether. <S> Find the closest rivetwhere <S> the two ends could be joined and add 2. <S> This is your cuttingpoint. <A> [edit: with a few more years of experience . . ] <S> It is likely if you have new chain and an old rear cassette which is worn then that is the problem. <S> A new cassette will match teeth on new chain. <S> But the problem could also be with your new chain length or rear derailleur. <S> Happily not expensive <S> just can be a bit tricky to fix. <S> Three things to check: <S> New chain is the right length? <S> The new chain should have the same number of links as the old chain. <S> Did you line up old and new chain (allowing for wear so the line-up will be asymmetrical!) and put on new chain with the same number of links? <S> I used this recently: http://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm <S> The old chain will be "stretched" so will not line up exactly with new chain. <S> OFTEN rear derailleur can get a bit twisted or bent. <S> You were riding in the forest and chain snapped. <S> Might you have bumped something? :-) <S> Especially your rear derailleur is exposed to bashing off things when mountain-biking. <S> Check does your rear derailleur cog line up correctly with your rear cogs? <S> Applying some gentle brute force in the right place on the rear derailleur can help. <S> This is very good: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html Check something in your drive chain. <S> A few years ago I had a bike where I got a notch in my front derailleur which chewed and snapped chains! <S> So check front and back drive-train. <S> Is your back wheel aligned correctly also? <A> If an old chain is jumping in all sprockets , it can only be the chain. <S> (Sprockets dont wear at the same rate. <S> I reckon it will be an incorrect new chain. <S> My new kmc is too wide for my cassette. <S> It does not bed down! <S> Even though both cassette and chain are both nine speed and new. <S> Very frustrating.
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Chain slip, after replacing a chain, usually indicates worn cog(s) Inspect all the drive components.
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Adding gears to a single speed Cycle I have a single speed cycle and i want to have minimum of six gears on it, Is there a cheap and good way so that i can get gears on it? <Q> If you're willing to accept 5 gears, it's really not that difficult. <S> Sturmey Archer make a wide-range 5-speed geared hub, with or without coaster brake, with 120mm OLD spacing. <S> There used to be a 5-speed SRAM hub with 122mm (?) OLD, but it might be a job to track one down. <S> If it's a steel frame with thin stays, you have a couple more mm of leeway. <S> But most hub gears are 135mm OLD. <S> Depending on the hub, it may be possible to remove axle spacers, but don't bet on it... <S> anti-rotation washers don't count; they mustn't be removed! <S> It only really makes sense if you love the frame. <S> then I say go for it. <S> My partner is very short (5'), and standover height is an issue, so she rides a kids' Fuji track. <S> The cost of the Fuji, plus that of building a new wheel around the SA hub, was significantly lower than any WSD we could find. <S> Afterthought: <S> There are quite a few caveats, however. <S> For starters you'll need a fairly narrow hub shell. <S> Then you'll need enough free threads on the axle to shuffle the cones and locknuts off to one side, so there's enough axle showing to fit the wheel securely. <S> Then you'll need to re-dish the wheel. <S> Then you'll just need a rear mech with a bolt-on hanger claw (assuming the frame doesn't have a threaded hanger on the dropout). <S> If you're friendly with a local bike shop / junkyard, you might be able to blag these bits and pieces for free. <A> If it was a multi speed with single speed conversion kit then <S> yes. <S> You will know it was a conversion if there are spacers on either side of rear gear. <S> If it is dedicated single speed then no cheap or good way. <S> The wheel does not have room for gears. <S> Even the dropouts are a smaller width. <S> Some wheels are set up that you can put a freewheel (or fixed) on both sides. <S> White has a freewheel that has two gears. <S> But that is not multi-speed - that is a bike that can be set up with different fixed. <S> And I agree with the comment from Hicks <S> Sell the bike and buy used multi speed Single speed bikes are popular and sell at a premium on CraigsList <A> Internal Gear Hubs might be the only viable solution, But still as it was pointed out there might be few problems concerning cabling, especially without major alterations
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Unless your current frame is a conversion, you may have a few cable-routing headaches too (although clamp-on cable guides aren't difficult to find). Part exchange would probably be your best bet, but if you have a good reason to keep the bike A cheap and good way (albeit one that requires some tinkering, swearing, and an awful lot of luck): 5-speeds from the 50s tended to be 120mm OLD, so you might be able to swap out the SS freewheel for an old-fashioned thread-on 5-speed model. The main issue is finding a hub that's narrow enough to fit the dropouts.
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How do I stop my rear derailleur from rubbing against my chassis? I have a fairly new Shimano rear derailleur on a cheap department store MTB a friend gave me. Recently the derailleur (particularly the jockey wheels) have started to rub against the chassis in high gears. I tried reseating it on the hanger at a larger angle, but even as far as it will go, it just wants to spring back until it hits the chassis. The best I can get it has it with very little clearance. Here are some pictures: Zoomed in so we can see the derailleur hanger (with "Hole A") that is bolted to the frame. It doesn't move when the axle is loosened. I don't particularly care for the paint job, but I do want it to stop hitting against the chassis and risk affecting operation. How do I fix it? <Q> To clarify, these Shimano Tourney derailleurs have their spring-loaded pivot at a different place to where they attach to the derailleur hangar. <S> Pivot B is not a pivot at all, and shouldn't be free to move. <S> However, it is currently attached at the wrong angle. <S> The angle made between the hangar and the rigid part of the derailleur should be more acute, as in this image. <S> Note that there is a protruding tab on the derailleur's attachment point, and on the hangar itself. <S> These tabs should be pressed against each other, such that the arrangement prevents that part of the derailleur from rotating in an anticlockwise direction relative to the hangar. <S> I've highlighted the tabs that need to mate together in the image below. <S> You may need to fine tune the chain length and derailleur adjustment further, follow the Shimano service instuctions for RD-TX55 . <A> Your chain is too slack. <A> I am going to post my comment as an answer so you don't just start taking out links <S> Put font and rear on the largest gears From there take out links If you take out too many links <S> then it won't have room to go on the largest path <S> If the hanger is not really designed for that bike you might have a case of you can't take out enough links But <S> not all the bad - <S> I bet if you have the front derailleur on the bigger gear you can put the rear on the smallest - so you do have access to the tallest gear
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Get a chain breaker tool (the cheap ones are about ten bucks) and shorten your chain by about three or four links.
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Tyre has a 'dip' in it after fitting to rim I'm riding with Continental Gatorskin/Hardshell tyres and they are quite tough to get on the rim. After attaching the tyre and inflating I notice there is a dip in the tyre at the point where I had to lever it on to the rim. I've tried deflating and re inflating the tube and trying to adjust the seating of the rim but the dip always seems to be there. I notice the bump when riding and am a little concerned that at higher speed a little less traction might be an issue. I'm hoping the tyre will eventually correct itself as it appears to be mishaped following the force required to get it on but might I have permanently damaged the tyre? Does anyone have similar experiences or have any solutions? OR maybe this is normal when fitting very tight tyres?! <Q> I used to get this a lot on my old 29er with Continental commuter tyres, large rim with tight tyre made for tough work getting the tyre on and off and often got similar flat-spots. <S> Check <S> the max psi first but pumping up as hard as possible can ping the tyre beading back on to the rim wall, then deflate back down to your proffered pressure. <S> If its still reluctant you can buy rim lube type stuff (could be a risky Google that, sorry) which is basically washing up liquid, so try that. <S> Add a bit around the tyre wall / beading while its off rim <S> and it will help ping on when you pressure up the tyre. <S> Track a pump will be your friend here. <A> Sometimes on tight tires the tube will get twisted inside and thus fail to inflate fully in that section. <S> You may want to pop the tube out and do the whole thing over. <A> This happens to me a lot.
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One thing that helped solve it in my case was to pull/wiggle the tire side to side with just maybe 15 or 20 psi in the tire and then continue inflating once I'd eyeballed it in place.
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What kind of flat is this? I'm stumped. For the last yew years I have been getting flats that look like this: As you can see, it's a tiny, tiny hole that can only be found by inflating the tire to twice its size or so. I know these aren't puncture flats because there is never anything in the tire, and they don't seem like pinch flats because: They never come in pairs They happen much more frequently on my front tire even though my rear wheel has much more weight from loaded 40L Ortlieb paniers. I'm running between 110 - 125 PSI, and more pressure doesn't seem to reduce the rate of flats. They tend to show up when I go to get on my bike in the morning, rather than on the way or after work. (Though this doesn't really contraindicate a pinch flat, I just thought it was weird). They seem to mainly be on the outside, although sometimes they are on the inside of the tube. Lately they've been happening more frequently, today I had three (I found my bike flat in the morning, then tried two more patched tubes with similar flats that I had missed). There are the usual gotcha's that I usually try to avoid too: Watch out for lips/edges on the road. Only use tire lever for tire removal, not replacement. Put some air in the tube before putting on the wheel to avoid folds/bends Make sure rim tape is fully covering all spoke holes I'm getting tired (pun not intended) of these, so before I buy a new (bigger) wheelset, I thought I'd call for help. Thanks! Some more details: Mavic CXP 30 700c wheels with Continental Gatorskin 700x23c tires, 4 mile commute each way over decent roads in hot conditions. <Q> That looks like the sort of hole you get from tiny bits of glass working their way through the tyre, then slowly cutting into the tube. <S> This photo shows the sort of small cuts I'm talking about: <S> The problem is that the ones that don't usually work their way in instead. <S> If you poke in there with something like the file shown (a sharpened spoke is what many bike mechanics use) you'll sometimes find a ~2mm or smaller triangle of glass. <S> When those work through the inside of the tyre they don't punch a hole like a nail does, they slowly cut a little slit as you see above. <S> The way to avoid this is by going over your tyres every few weeks and digging out those bits of glass. <S> Note that even very puncture-resistant tyres will suffer this, just less often. <S> This guy had the same problem with tyre liners. <S> Picking the glass out is the only solution. <S> Echoing @DanielRHicks comment: one annoying possiblity is that you have a little fragment of glass or something loose inside the tyre. <S> So every time you check the tyre you don't find it because it slides around as you rotate the tyre checking it, and every puncture is in a different place. <S> So check for that too. <A> That sure looks like puncture to me. <S> Are you sure you don't have something small in your tire? <S> You should rotate tires anyway so give this a try. <S> Pull the tires and rotate. <S> If you start getting flats on the rear the look hard at the tire. <S> If you get flats in the front then look hard at that rim. <S> Turn the tires inside out and inspect. <S> Wipe down the rim with a towel. <S> Are these tubes you bought as a set? <S> Maybe bad tubes. <S> Try a fresh set of tubes of a different brand. <S> Why are you saying bigger wheelset? <S> That is a decent wheelset. <S> That is not the first thing I would replace. <S> That rim will take larger tires. <S> Start with tubes and then tires. <S> And if you replace the tire consider something bigger than 23. <S> You may be only able to go to 25 based frame and rim. <S> I commute on Marathon 32 and don't even get one flat a year. <S> Have Gatorskin 25 on another bike and like the speed but would not use that for commuting. <A> gator skins are pretty tough, i rode a pair in san francisco for over a year without a puncture, i'm not saying they are completely impervious, a direct puncture is unlikely. <S> the sidewalls are vulnerable. <S> tiny glass particles can work their way through the hole for the valve (i've also heard that the bead and the rim is another point of entry...), when the air is low that's when they can actually make it in there. <S> particularly in less than dry conditions. <S> i would run my fingernail along the inside of the tire casing and would find remarkably fine particles that i know weren't in there when i put them on my rims.
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I'd check the outside of the tyre for tiny cuts, and the inside for barely-detectable points poking through. Each of those had a little bit of glass or something in it once, but most of those work their way back out. I've had Marathon Plus tyres puncture this way, but only once (I use those tyres a lot).
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Adjusting over locknut distance with spacers I'm trying to adapt a 130mm over locknut distance (OLD) hub to a 135mm OLD frame. Sheldon Brown suggests that I can just add in spacers between the cones and the locknuts. Sheldon doesn't say, however, where I can find good spacers for this. Can I just go to a bike shop and buy some 2.5mm spacers? Do 2.5mm spacers even exist? Or do I have to jury rig it with washers from the hardware store? <Q> You have to fiddle with the washers every time you take off your wheel, but they will do the job. <S> If you want to avoid that, you have to put them inside the locknut. <S> If your wheel is such that the bottom of the locknut is outside of your cassette or freewheel - i.e. above your lockring, if you have a cassette - you can just put a washer between your locknut and cone. <S> If the bottom of the locknut is not exposed, you may be able to still put in a washer, but it may block the splined locknut/freewheel remover. <S> In that case, you have to use a part that is specially made for the task, usually called "axle spacers". <S> You can put these between your locknut and your cone, and they will leave room for inserting the splined freewheel/lockring remover. <A> Pretty much any washer that will fit will do. <S> And if you can't find 2.5mm washers, 2mm will be fine, 1mm either way won't damage your frame. <S> As long as it's a steel frame. <A> I've used a short length cut from a steel pipe in the past. <S> As long as the Inner Diameter is barely more than the OD of the axle it will center well enough. <S> The pipe's wall needs to be thick enough to not crumple under pressure. <S> The only trick is to make sure your cut is parallel to the end, and that it is nicely de-burred and any raw steel is painted with zinc primer, or well greased to prevent rust.
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I have figured out two options: The less elegant option is just putting some washers on the end of your axle, such that they lie between your locknut and the dropout when the wheel is installed. You can find them on the internet by searching for "bicycle axle spacers", and they come in a bunch of sizes down to 0.5mm, so you should be able to find the perfect combination for your setup.
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Is hydroformed tubing good? I've recently saw that a bmx frame was hydroformed.Is it better than not hydroformed? <Q> According to wikipedia , hydroforming is a cost-effective way of shaping ductile metals such as aluminum, brass, low alloy steels, stainless steel into lightweight, structurally stiff and strong pieces. <S> In reality, most aluminium frames are made this way. <S> They start with a simple round tube and form it in more suitable shapes. <S> You wil have to look hard to find non-hydroformed frames. <A> Or maybe the bike just looks cooler. <A> I think this link to Niner explains it best <S> The answer is that is depends <S> NinerAlloyFrame Frames with simpler shapes can be hydroformed and still achieve the tolerances we need to create a light, strong bike. <S> Frames with very complex shaping or with tubes that need to interface with bearings or pivot hardware are typically airformed. <S> Airforming allows for much more precise tolerances and more elaborate shapes that can include both bending and twisting. <S> A great example of this level of complexity is the stay bridge on our alloy full suspension frames.
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Not inherently, but hydroformed tubing has more possible shapes and distributions of material, and potentially allows the bicycle designer to design a lighter bike of the same strength, or a stronger bike of the same weight.
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Turn signal lights for bikes I am interested in buying turn signal lights for bicycles. I read something about here and in other websites, but I did not find answers for the following questions: For the point of view of a driver, is it better to use a hand signal or if a turn signal light? Is it safer? How much (are there any statistics)? What are your personal opinion? I think a bit difficult to balance while making signals with my arm, so I thought about using these lights. Since cars are not familiar with bike in streets (where I live at least), I thought about using a super strong turn signal lights. Do you recommend any particular type? <Q> I'd recommend learning to do arm signals. <S> Arm signals don't run out of batteries, and are plenty visible in most cases. <S> They're certainly bigger than the turn signal lights you could put on a bicycle (which as Moz points out in a comment, makes distinguishing the 2 turn signals a possible issue), and the distance you need to see a bike turning is a lot smaller than that which you need to see a car turning. <S> You also have to worry about running wires from the back to front if you only have one power source (and the indicator switch isn't wireless) and worry about bags or other things obscuring the lights. <S> At night, the primary value would be moreso the extra light rather than the fact that it was a turn signal light, and you can get that just by putting on a bigger head and tail light. <S> You'll get used to balancing while doing them after a few weeks of riding, typically. <S> And in any case, you need to know how to do them when your batteries run out. <S> IMO, the primary use of turn signals on a bike is less-so that you know which way a turn is happening, but moreso that the drivers know the cyclist is going to do something and be prepared for it (a sentiment echoed by one of the comments). <A> Suggested compromise: <A> Learn to look back while riding straight. <S> That is much more important than making any signal. <S> Also the movement of the head is usually a good indication to the driver behind of what your intentions are. <A> I think electric turn signals on bicycle are a silly idea. <S> As a motorcycle rider, I know that cars ignore turn signals. <S> On my bicycle, I do my hand signals (especially the left turns in the USA where I'm crossing against traffic) in conjunction with looking back and making eye-contact with whatever homicidal cager is threatening to run me down. <S> I also signal lane shifts the same way. <S> Hand signals are a visible claiming of space and the head turn / eye-contact is a critical part of this. <S> (On my motorbike, I tend do lane changes with hand signals. <S> Pointing to the space that I'll occupy along with a death glare at the car behind me is much more effective than a little blinker).
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And you have to deal with the potential of the lights getting stolen. Hand signals, but wear reflective material on your arms to make those signals more visible. Your handlebar area also becomes a bit more cluttered for a turn signal anyway, esp if you have trigger shifters. Motorbikes and bicycles are invisible to cars.
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Riding a bike on a tilted road I have a dutch city bike (similar to the one shown below) with broad tires that I use for commuting short distances. When traveling on roads with a slight tilt (left to right, perpendicular to the road), I often find myself feeling unbalanced, as if tilt of the road is exerting a force on my tires, pushing me against the tilt. What am I doing wrong? Can something be wrong with the bike/tires or is it just "me"? <Q> If you feel no "tilt" on a flat road then there is probably nothing wrong. <S> A bike's steering geometry is designed as a compromise, using terms such as "rake", "head angle", and "trail". <S> A bike designed for agility will generally have a geometry that makes it turn downhill on a slope (if you let go of the handlebar), but a bike designed for stability (such as yours) will tend to turn uphill. <S> This tendency is amplified by the wider, lower pressure tires. <S> I doubt that there is anything wrong with the bike, unless this effect is very pronounced. <A> The tilt of the road is exerting a sideways force on your tyres: Camber thrust . <S> But on normal roads, it's a relatively small effect. <A> This is not a full answer <S> It is too much for a comment <S> Please don't vote this down But don't vote this up either As for tire size that is not the problem. <S> My theory is you need to correct <S> but I cannot demonstrate how much. <S> A larger tire is good as you will get the same amount of traction for less force. <S> Bike geometry is designed to hold a line on a flat cant. <S> If you hold a bike by the seat and balance it on flat ground the front wheel will be straight. <S> If you tilt the seat to one side or the other the front wheel will turn. <S> This is how you can ride with no hands. <S> So if you change the slope under the bike it is going to affect the natural line also. <S> I ran a test where I tilted board under the bike compared to tilting the bike on the board. <S> What I found was the wheel consistently pointed down hill - which made sense. <S> I think this needs a free state diagram that mechanical engineers do <S> and I don't know how to do those. <S> Hopefully a frame designer will get on.
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On a flat surface, this force is part of what makes a bike turn when you lean, but having the road tilted when the bike is upright will have the same effect (and so try to turn the bike). If you find the effect unsettling you might be able to reduce it by increasing your front tire pressure 20-30%.
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Replacing a chainring - what did I do wrong? TL;DR I thought I could figure out repairs myself but clearly I'm a moron. I replaced the chain and chainring on my fixie last Saturday, and this morning it got scary loose on me. I started to feel what felt like slack in the chain, but when I pulled over to check it out I noticed that all five of the bolts on the chainring were halfway to falling out. From start to finish, here's everything that I did when removing the worn ring and putting the new one on: Remove old chain (do not remove crankset from bottom bracket) Starting with an Allen wrench and a screw driver, I started removing the nuts/bolts holding the old chainring in place. Successfully remove three of the five. Glare at rust on threads of nut. Fight with the remaining two bolts, which seem to have seized. Add a small amount of WD-40 to seized bolts. Fight some more. Swear. Attempt to use a hammer to tap on screwdriver to loosen bolts. Lament my lack of a third arm. Swear some more. Take a break. Look accusingly at old chainring. Pretend to do something else, in order to lull it in to a false sense of security. Attack bolts without warning. Realize that the only thing I'm doing is stripping the nuts and coming seriously close to accidentally stabbing myself with a screwdriver. Admit defeat, go to LBS. Get a proper chainring nut wrench and a replacement set of chainring nuts/screws. Cackling with the newly found power of using the proper tool, removing the frozen bolts and the old chainring. Small amount of WD-40 on a rag used to clean rust transfer off of crankset, then wiped down with clean rag New chainring in place, finger-tighten new bolts In star pattern, use Allen wrench and chainring wrench to tighten bolts Repeat above for good measure One last time, just crank those suckers as tight as possible Install new chain Ride to/from work, no problems. Ride to work, almost die, s#!t bricks. All told, I rode about 20 miles between installing the new chainring and the extreme loosening that I had this morning. Did I miss some fundamental step in this process, or was this just bad luck? What can I do to keep this from happening in the future? EDIT: Now with photos! I only removed one of the bolts because I didn't have the time to take the whole thing apart. If necessary, I can disassemble the entire thing when I have time. Also, man my bike is dirty. :-/ Outside of chainring Inside of chainring Outside after I removed a bolt Inside after I removed a bolt The bolt I removed <Q> Consider that you should use either grease on the threads of your chainring bolts when installing chainring bolts, you want to be able to easily remove these later as chainrings do need to be replaced over time. <S> Get some grease on the faces of the chainring and crank spider where they touch the chainring bolts. <S> Some people are fine with blue loc-tite, but I prefer not to have to force it. <S> Don't just tighten them once and assume it's ok. <S> Go around the ring and tighten every other bolt until you've tightened them all. <S> You can do a star pattern if you prefer, just don't tighten them simply in order around the ring. <S> Make a couple passes and incrementally increase tightness. <S> Use a torque wrench if you're really worried about over-tighening. <S> Make sure you're using the appropriate length of chainring bolts (which doesn't seem like a problem from the photos). <S> Some bolts (actually the sleeve/nut) are made longer to go through the crank spider and 2 rings (or bash guard), while others are made shorter to go through the crank spider and a single ring. <A> It says threadLOCKER <S> but it mainly provides thread friction <S> so bolts don't back out of their own accord. <S> RED locktite on the other hand, locks it on there. <S> As to why those bolts backed off, some of the steel bolts I've seen have a very low friction coating on them and with the high torque you get with the fixies, well, they can back off. <S> Use locktite :) <A> Given the instructions from Surly are grease and not loctite <S> I don't agree that loctite is the answer. <S> Same with instructions from sram. <S> Something is wrong for those to go loose in a day. <S> SurlyInstructions Are you sure you have 6mm (single)? <S> That bolt looks long relative to the nut to me. <S> I seems like more thread on thread is a good thing. <S> SingleChainrignNutBolt TruVativ Understand you don't have a TruVativ but only place <S> I found torque. <S> For steel torque is 12-14 nM. <S> And they show the nut on the chainring side (like you have it).
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A drop of blue Locktite (use sparingly on each bolt) will fix this problem: http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm You want to ensure they are tightened evenly, so that none of them are loose while others are over-tightened.
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Am I required as a biker to use the bike lane on the right side of the road? The following is a google maps image of a busy intersection I need to take during my commute: Traffic mostly comes from 2 sides: the South and the West. At the time I pass this intersection, there is a lot of traffic from both sides. There are bicycle lanes on both sides. Most traffic from the south heads west (about 4 in 5 cars) and most traffic from the west heads east (again 4 in 5). When I come from the West and need to go via Diepe Roet (that small curvy street to the South), there is a cycling lane up to the intersection. However, I find it hard to judge the traffic situation, because there are usually 4 or 5 cars waiting from either side, and they don't usually use their indicators properly. There's also not enough illumination to completely cover the intersection. The solution I've found is to head north along Heistraat. If it's not yet dark, I try to cross at the Frans de Cortlaan, which doesn't have nearly as much traffic. However, there's not much light there either, so if it's dark (in the winter), I drive another 50 meters or so further North. There is a school there with clear illumination on both sides, no perpendicular streets, a long speedbump and a zebra crossing. Both crossings are in my opinion far safer to cross, because it's much easier to see oncoming traffic in both ways. After having had an accident in the dark when crossing at the marked intersection, I rarely cross at that street, except during the holidays when there's no school traffic. However, I need to drive on the left hand side bicycle lane for this, and I'm not quite sure how dangerous or legal this is. I'm not the only cycler who does this on that intersection, and I feel like I got enough justification to do it. However, if I get into an accident, I could get into trouble for not following the normal flow of traffic. Is driving against the flow of traffic an appropriate maneuver to counteract the danger on that intersection? <Q> Riding against the flow of traffic is dangerous and illegal. <A> Am I required as a biker to use the bike lane on the right side of the road? <S> According to one bicycling guide for Belgium <S> "Cyclists have to use the cycle track if there is one available on the right side of the road or one that is designed for driving in both directions. " <S> However that same guide lists a number of fines when a violation occurs and does not list a violation of this in its section on fines. <S> Further, wikipedia indicates that "some European countries, including Germany, France, Denmark, Belgium, and the Netherlands have defined liability legislation. <S> Thus there is a legal assumption that motorists are automatically considered liable in law for any injuries that occur if they collide with a cyclist . <S> This may hold regardless of any fault on the part of the cyclist and may significantly affect the behavior of motorists when they encounter cyclists." <S> That won't help you if you are badly injured or killed in an accident, however it suggests that cyclist safety is paramount in any case. <S> It may be that if you are fined you can explain the situation and reduce or have the fine waived due to the circumstances in that particular section of the city. <S> Is driving against the flow of traffic an appropriate maneuver to counteract the danger on that intersection? <S> No. <S> Unless you are a pedestrian you should not go against the flow of traffic. <S> If, for the purposes of navigating that intersection safely, you determine that going against the flow is safer, then dismount and walk your bike as a pedestrian. <S> Follow the relevant laws and signage for pedestrian traffic. <A> In Belgium at least, you are required to take the bicycle lane on your right if it exists. <S> Yet, sometimes, safety would be higher somewhere else. <S> You should always prioritize safety, and it sometimes requires to do barely legal stuff. <S> In that case anyway, people (and most likely cops) will be understanding if you have a good explanation. <S> Keep on mind though that the roads are usually designed to be as safe as possible, and the guys who designed it had a better overview than you have right now. <S> (Most of the time) <S> You would endanger yourself and other unsuspecting users.
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If an intersection or a set of intersections does not permit you to ride safely, walk your bike. But never, ever go on a bike lane in the wrong direction.
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Avoid problems with ratchet straps to fasten MTB shoes With shoes like those shown below, when you adjust the buckle to the most tight position, the release handle is blocked (IMHO, this is due to bad engineering but cannot be changed.) Usually, this happens to me during several hour bike rides after readjusting, i.e. tightening the ratchet strap. As a result, I have to use tricks like inserting thin sheets of metal between the buckle and the strap, which is especially tricky in places where you do not have those devices around. The major question is, how can I avoid this with my existing shoes? E.g. I was thinking of "inserting something" so that the most tight position is blocked. However, I am also wondering whether I am the only one who experiences this problem, i.e. whether I am the problem, by e.g. buying shoes that are too large (by common standards, this is not the case) or by feet that shrink much more than average during pedaling. EDIT: Regarding myself as a problem, I should add that due to a rare type of blood cancer, my blood is "thicker" (which is a physically incorrect term) than average, resulting in a bad (micro)circulation, especially during long exercise. Hence, an optimum solution would not increase the chance for unwanted heating, e.g. by wearing additional socks. <Q> To fix your existing shoes, I would either move where the strap attaches to the "tongue" of the shoe or where the buckle is fixed to the side of the shoe. <S> The straps are designed to be replaceable ( as well as the buckles ). <S> I would take a closer look at your shoes, many Shimano models have small screws that fasten the buckle to the shoe so it can be replaced. <S> If I am remembering correctly, they also have two sets of positions so you can place the buckle loweron the shoe if you want. <S> This is something skiers do with ski boots all the time, so if your local cobbler can't handle the problem, you might try a ski shop. <A> Streuth, you are right! <S> I just tried tightening my Shimano SR215s and now I can't get my shoes off! <S> I thought you must have very thin feet, but I do not <S> and this position is not all that tight. <S> I have never tightened them up this much before simply because the ratchet straps are old and difficult to tighten. <S> When I get some replacement straps, this is going to be a problem. <S> Rather than building up the straps with Sugru or tape you could grind away the ratchet teeth from the top of the strap with a box cutter or angle grinder. <S> Few, I managed to get them off using the blade of a pair of sissors inserted from the bottom. <S> I would like to thank Fred the Magic Wonder <S> Do because I have moved the buckles to the low screw position, not only making this over-tightened position near impossible but also allowing me to use a different part of the strap, giving new life to the straps and my shoes! <A> Perhaps the shoes are the right length, but too wide for your feet. <S> Maybe an extra insole would make them a little tighter without making them much warmer, as there isn't much airflow through the sole anyway. <A> One word: Sugru. <S> It's a great self-curing plastic that allows you to "hack" your shoes in all sorts of ways. <S> You can knead in a bit of it to make sure the tightest buckle position is blocked. <S> You can use it to add a lip to the release to make it easier to grab. <S> You can use it to repair your shoes. <S> Next to ShoeGoo and gaffer's tape, it's the Best Thing in the Universe®. <S> You can get it at <S> http://sugru.com/ -- <S> and sadly no, I don't get any kickbacks from them <S> otherwise I'd be a millionaire, as I evangelize it as much as I can. :-)
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Even if this is not the case with your shoes, you should be able to move the position of the buckle using pop rivets. You could wear extra socks so you wouldn't have to tighten them so much, but that would probably make them too warm.
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Can I modify the gearing on a 2009 Jamis Aurora? I have a stock 2009 Jamis Aurora . I'm looking to modify my gear set-up to make climbing hills with large loads a little easier on my knees, as I constantly find myself wishing I had one or more low gears. The specs say the crankset is an FSA Vero Forged 50/39/30 with a length of 175mm. The casette is a 9-speed SRAM Powerglide 950 (11-32). I read on a couple forums that some people had switched out their 30 tooth front sprocket for a 26 or 24, to help out with steep climbs and heavy loads. However, when I called a couple bike shops, they expressed concern that it wouldn't be possible and compatible with the front derailleur. So I had a couple questions for bike experts since this is my first time really looking at gear systems - 1) Would changing from a 30T to 24 or 26T make a tangible difference on climbs? 2) How do I figure out whether the rest of the bike components will tolerate a 24 or 26t sprocket in the front? 3) Finally, any other solutions for this problem that one might try? Thank you! UPDATE 6/19 After incredibly helpful advice from folks in this thread, as well as consulting a number of LBS, I have successfully swapped out the 30 for a 26, without losing my STI levers and without any other problems. The secret lies in adding a 'chain watcher' to help guide the chain back onto the granny if it comes off. Some other adjustments to the front derailleur are also necessary. But with a competent bike shop, it's doable. I haven't climbed with a load yet (this weekend), but from use so far, it shifts smoothly into the granny (but you have to take care you're somewhere in the middle of the rear cassette when doing so), and shifting back up to the middle is also not an issue, though it takes a little longer than before and must be done delicately. With the granny, you shouldn't use the smallest 3 or 4 cogs in the back. Otherwise it works like a charm. Bike shop said it'd probably work just fine to switch the cassette to a 12-34 instead of 11-32 if I wanted lower gearing, too. <Q> You can easily put a 26t chainwheel on the front crank. <S> I've done that on a couple bikes, because 30/39/52 makes for a stupidly redundant set of gears with anything like a wide range cassette on the back. <S> It will likely take some tweaking of the front derailler setup to get it working properly, switching to a 50 from a 52 can help with that. <S> It isn't an out of the box recommendation since you are slightly exceeding the manufacturers specifications for both front and total ranges, but in practice itworks just fine. <S> I would recommend installing some kind of chain keeper like the Deda Dog fang. <S> This will help avoid dropped chains when shifting from the middle to small chainring. <S> As far as changing the rear cassette goes, you should be able to use a Shimano 9speed HG 12-36 <S> and it's generally just cheaper to buy the whole cassette than individual rings. <S> If your current cassette isn't worn, you can mix and match rings to build a custom cassette. <S> However, switching cassettes doesn't really solve the problem as well as a smaller chainring would IMHO. <S> A good granny will give you a few choices in climbing. <S> If you go to just the 36t in the back, you've only added one lower gear and you'll be "stuck" there. <S> Standard road triples 130/74 BCD don't make a lot of sense for touring. <S> It uses modern bearings and you can get a replaceable spider to allow for whatever front gears you like. <S> IMHO, the old MTB standard 58/94 is ideal for loaded touring. <S> 20/30/42 allows you to use a relatively close range on the back and still get all the gears you need. <S> If you do go this route, you might need to replace the front derailuer as well. <S> Keep poking around on Sheldon Brown's pages, there is lot's of good info there. <A> I'd start by swapping the rear cassette so that you have lower gearing (i.e. bigger gears in the back). <S> The rear derailleur is what determines the biggest cassette (set of gears in the back) <S> you can put on the bike (since they have to have enough tensioning ability to regulate the chain change for big gears). <S> There are wide range (SGS), medium range (GS) and narrow range (SS). <S> In this case, its a Shimano Deore derailleur, which is SGS. <S> Thus, you can stick on a bigger rear cassette if you can't handle the climbs as is. <S> Maybe a 12-36t or something. <S> I don't think I'd swap the chainrings out - 30t and 39t are already pretty low for most applications, and you need to swap the other chainrings out to smaller things in that case, since the front derailleur can approximately only do jumps of 10t reliably at a time. <S> This is also pricey. <S> That being said, the Surly LHT ships with a 26/36/48, so it might be worth a shot. <S> But I'd start with a bigger cassette. <A> Swapping chainrings would definitely help on climbs. <S> Your current 30-32 bottom gear is reasonably low by touring standards, with a development of 30/32*π*0.68 = 2.0m, where the 24T chainring will give you ... <S> 1.6m (20% reduction). <S> You'll really notice that. <S> 26T will shift easier and still be significantly lower. <S> Really the only reliable way to find out whether the rest of the components will work with it is to try. <S> At worst you'll find that the front derailleur isn't really long enough to cope with the small chainring and the chain runs on the bottom of it for some of the smaller cogs on the cassette. <S> Which is workable for many people - you end up with the granny ring only working with the biggest 3 or 4 cogs on the rear cassette. <S> Shifting will likely be more difficult than you expect, especially getting out of that chainring back into the middle. <S> Doing that shift while climbing will be tricky, and that's what kills it for many people. <S> You only get one chance, and if you don't make the shift you have to drop back, recover the bike, speed up and try again. <S> Which is annoying. <S> That is at the cost, obviously, of harder shifts from the middle to big chainring since you've increased that gap. <S> If you can afford it, I think it's well worth buying a 26T cog and seeing what happens. <S> Other options <S> You can get some benefit from a bigger cog on the cassette, but the jump from 32T to 36T is not particularly large and you will probably struggle to shift that with your current rear derailleur. <S> The obvious fix is a Rohloff hub :)
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To mitigate that it can help to change front derailleurs (basically buy the front triple derailleur with the widest range you can find), and drop a few teeth on the middle chainring to make the shift easier. If you are doing a lot of loaded touring, I would recommend replacing the entire front crank altogether. A 110/74 or even a 9 speed MTB crank 22/32/44 will give a more useable set of gears. Personally, I would take a long look at the Surly Mr Whirly crank for touring.
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How to keep a huge cargo bike safe in the city? I have been biking for transportation and pleasure the whole time I've lived in Chicago, and I'm familiar with the basics of locking up and storing my commuter bike. Yesterday I added a Yuba Mundo to my stable because I'm getting rid of my car and I'd like to still be able to go places with passengers. I rode it to the grocery store and was just barely able to lock it to the bike rack there, and only because one whole side of the rack was free. A U-lock won't fit around both the frame and a locking-post because I can't get the frame close enough to the locking-post. I've been using Kryptonite cables to tether it to a post, and then locking the U-lock through the cable, frame, and front wheel. I also plan to cover it with a tarp when it's parked on my patio, to keep birds off it as well as to hide it a bit from would-be thieves. Next to the giant tubes of the Yuba, the Kryptonite cable looks like a little thread. I can't park this thing indoors because it won't fit inside most places (including my third-floor walk-up) and it has me laying awake at night worrying that the cable will be cut. What other steps besides locking it to itself, cabling it to a post, and covering it with a tarp should I take to ensure the safety of my bike, both at home and out and about? <Q> I'm answering my own question because I took a combination of the steps above, plus some other steps. <S> I took steps to make getting it back in event of theft more likely: registered the bike with the Chicago police: https://portal.chicagopolice.org/portal/page/portal/ClearPath/Online%20Services/Bike%20Registration <S> I plan to register it with https://www.nationalbikeregistry.com/ <S> as well Made sure the store I got it from keeps bike serial numbers on file Rolled up an extra copy of the receipt, with my name and phone number on it, and put it inside the seat tube <S> I figured out a hardware setup Heavy chain (the Fuggedaboutit lock+chain) for locking the frame to a post, instead of the flimsy cable. <S> Tethered the seat to the frame with a small cable Normal U-lock for locking the front wheel to the frame. <S> Chose a bright, unusual color when I bought it <A> I would go both ways. <S> A nice ulock plus a chain. <S> If you have nothing to attach to then use the chain for the front wheel. <S> If the ulock will attach to the rack then use the chain for both wheels. <S> How to Choose Your Bicycle Security <S> We also recommend using two security products rather than just one as this will usually drive a thief to choose another target. <S> Kryptonite has an anti-theft protection. <S> It is free the first year. <S> If you buy one of their locks you might as well sign up. <A> If you are looking at U-locks there are possibly larger ones available. <S> Kryptonite for example has a "standard" Evolution series 4 which has a 4in x 9in shackle. <S> Then they make variations with a short shackle: <S> Evolution Mini-5 <S> (3.25in x 5in) and a long shackle: <S> Evolution series 4 LS (4in x 11in). <S> Each will have benefits and drawbacks, and your application might require something beefier: <S> New York Legend Chain . <A> You could also try 2 D-locks, 1 round the hard point, 1 round the frame or back wheel, and interlinked to form a chain. <S> I suggest long thin ones, of 2 different brands <S> so the keys are dissimilar and you don't get confused. <S> It doesn't look easy to pick up (though easier than a bakfiets which was what I imagined when I saw the title), so making it non-ridable is also helpful - take the saddle indoors perhaps. <S> The old technique of taking off the front wheel and locking it to the back wheel also slows down a ride-off thief, as does any form of lock fixing the front wheel to the frame (yes, ideally to a hardpoint as well) With respect to the patio, could you fit a ground anchor into a heavy concrete parasol base and lock to that? <S> You will probably end up with 2 locking setups - keep the heaviest stuff at home, but have some means of locking it up while out as well. <A> Note that if you use a U-lock on the rear wheel inside the bike frame (e.g. close to the seat post frame), then you only need to lock the wheel and not the frame as well. <S> Because the lock and the wheel are inside the rear frame triangle, the frame is effectively locked as well. <S> This is just a suggestion because it might make it possible to use a U-lock.
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If the ulock cannot attach to the rack then just use it to lock the rear wheel. Made sure it was covered on my renter's insurance I'm hoping to deter based on looks also Covering up brand-name info with a unique combination of stickers
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How to get a lower gearing My trusty old CF racer was stolen the other day, and I'm looking for a replacement. I saw this bike at PlanetX and was intrigued. It's a full carbon bike with (last years) Ultegra components for a very reasonable price ( < $2k). It comes with a compact crankset and a short-cage dérailleur. The largest cassette it can accommodate is 11-28, which would give me a lowest gear of 34-28. Not bad, and the same as I had before. But I live in the Alps and I frequently find myself in the lowest gear well before I hit the steepest parts of the hills, so I would like to have a lower gear, if at all possible. I spoke to the vendor, and they said that it would (at least in theory) be possible to put on a medium-cage dérailleur and an 11-30 cassette. But I was wondering if it would be possible to have a smaller chainring in front instead. Can you get smaller than 34? Or would that not fit? At some level I'm contemplating putting on a triple instead, but that seems like going back to the 20th century... <Q> The smallest chainring that will fit on a compact double 110 BCD is 33t <S> and they are quite hard to find ( Only TA or custom chainwheel manufacturers make them). <S> IMHO, what would be a true triple replacement would be something like a 11-30 with a 30/48. <S> Unfortunately, the 94 BCD cranks are almost all old MTB triples. <S> I know Shimano 9spd is interchangable between road and mtn, but I'm pretty sure <S> that is not the case 11 speed deraillers. <S> Shimano does sell an 11-32 with that groupset Ultegra 6800, so they must think the medium cage derailler can deal with it. <S> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-ultegra-6800-11-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod108686 <A> If you are concerned about fashion or being ridiculed by cycling snobs, go for a compact double with as large a rear cassette as you can find. <S> If you actually want to be able to climb hills more easily, go for a triple as PeteH suggests. <S> You will be faster and your knees will thank you in years to come. <S> While SRAM seem to be moving away from triples entirely, providing some super-wide cassettes for mountain bikes (but not road bikes AFAIK), <S> both Shimano and Campagnolo offer a range of modern triples for road bikes. <A> Assuming that the ultegra hole-diameter is 110mm <S> you won't get anything under 33 on the smaller chainring. <S> That's why I'd recommend going for a medium cage dérailleur with the 11-30 cassette. <S> As you said, getting a triple would be 20th century... :D <A> I've got a planet x with ultegra 6800, came with 11-28 which was fine on most stuff. <S> I usually commute 100 odd miles a week through gentle hills. <S> Put an 11-32 cassette and long cage mech on to do lakes and hardknott pass, then a long ride across France and through the alps. <S> Love the extra gearing range and can't see any reason to switch back.
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You can easily get a 32-tooth rear cog for most groupsets and may even be able to fit 11-34 if you're willing to go with something 3rd party . The problem with putting a large range cassette on that bike is compatibility with the Ultegra 11 spd shifters.
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Noticeable clicking from crankset or bottom bracket A few days ago I began hearing a clicking noise coming from the crankset and I can also sense a slight hitch when the right crank is at its upmost position just when it's about to go down. The interesting thing is that it only happens when pedaling. When i have the bike on the stand I cannot reproduce this no matter how hard I pull and bend the cranks in whatever direction. I have already taken the cranks off and on again and re-tightened them but without any change. I am afraid that it could be the bottom bracket itself. Unfortunately I don't have the tools to tighten it or take it off. I have already checked this page, but could only so far to get the cranks checked: http://sheldonbrown.com/creaks.html#bottom The bottom bracket is a Truvativ model. The chainring is a Thimano model and has only one chainring (nexus hub shift in the back). Is there anything else I could do or check for? edit: I think I've tracked it down to be the bottom bracket. If I have the cranks at a certain position and bend them inwards, the clicking is quite noticeable even when not pedaling. <Q> There are multiple components that can contribute to a clicking or grinding sound in your drive train in addition to the bottom bracket, including the chain, the pedals, the derailleur and the rear hub. <S> That said, the symptoms you describe seem to indicate a problem with the pedal bearings or the bottom bracket. <S> Here are my steps for troubleshooting the bottom bracket: <S> Pull your cranks laterally. <S> Do they move? <S> Remove the chain from the chainrings and give your cranks a good spin; listen for any unusual grinding noise or little clicks. <S> Hold the down tube or seat tube while spinning the crank and see if you can feel grinding or vibration through the frame. <S> Any of those indicate that you need to service or replace your bottom bracket. <S> That is not a particularly hard task, and if you have been removing or tightening the cranks you likely only need one or two special tools that you may not have. <S> Replacing or repairing bottom brackets is a common task, so it may be worth it to you to pick those tools up. <S> Here are some bottom bracket service instructions: Cartridge Type Bottom Bracket Service Cup and Cone Bottom Bracket Service <A> The clicking, only under load and always at the same point of the stroke, can be due to: A bad pedal. <S> I've had this a couple of times. <S> The crank arm slipping on the crank. <S> Generally if you've been riding it this way for more than 100 miles or so the crank arm (and possibly the crank) will have been permanently damaged, but tightening the fixing bolt may work, and I've always wondered if one couldn't use a shim (cut from a pop can) to "save" a worn arm in this situation. <S> The BB cartridge is shifting inside the housing, because the cups are not tight enough. <S> This problem is annoying but probably not a structural issue, though eventually the cups could wear to the point that it gets worse. <S> A loose chainring. <S> Something somewhere else on the bike that simply clicks as the frame flexes. <A> I've had a similar clicking experience. <S> Not really varying under different load, nor at a certain position of crank arms. <S> Everyone I asked said to me it was the ball bearings in the bottom bracket. <S> I pulled the BB out, spinned it in my hands, heard all sort of creaking sounds coming out of it - as if it was full of sand. <S> Bought the new one, installed it: et voilà, no clicking. <S> Bottom bracket was two years old with about 4000 km on it <S> (FSA if I'm not mistaken). <A> The clicking could be coming from where the pedal joins the crank-arm (with the noise sounding as pressure is placed on the pedal at the top of the stroke). <S> I've had this before, tightened the pedal slightly and no more clicking. <S> Similarly, I was never able to generate the correct forces to make it click unless I was on the bike riding <A> I recently spent a week trying to figure out where my creaking noise was coming from. <S> I could feel as well as hear it <S> and I was convinced it was coming from the drive train (same rhythm as pedal stroke). <S> After tightening crank bolts, removing cranks, cleaning and greasing and doing the same with the pedals, oiling the chain adjusting both derailleurs. <S> I finally realised that the noise was quieter when I stood up. <S> Checked the seat post clamp only to find that it wasn't very tight. <S> Nipped it up and went out to test it..... <S> silent, only the noise of the tyres can be heard now. <S> Mint. <A> I had a similar noise coming from what I thought was the cranks or the chainset. <S> After taking it all apart, re-greasing it all and also replacing the bottom bracket the noise persisted to my frustration. <S> Hey presto, once I tightened the QR the noise was gone! <S> Good luck to anyone else who has a similar problem! <A> I have had the same noise and discovered the problem and here is the solution. <S> The left crank arm does NOT fit perfectly in the axle and the axle does not on the bearing. <S> To have a perfect fit I put same plastic pieces between the bearing and the axle. <S> 5 pieces to be precise. <S> 3mm pieces of zipp tie. <S> Push them once the the left arm is in place before the washer whit the star hole. <S> The axle has 10 holes. <S> put 5 of those plastic pieces. <S> This puts pressure between every cracking part and the sound has disappeared. <A> If the bb is similar to the hollowtech 2 from Shimano <S> (I know you said it is truvativ <S> but perhaps they have a similar design), these do tend to develop a squeak / click after a while, and they are cartridge <S> so you need to replace them. <S> Other things that can make a deceptively similar noise: chainring bolts saddle rails seatpost clamp potentially also from pedal bearings make sure you check regularly that everything is tightened (but not overtight) and support your local bike shop by taking your bike there for a service if you don't have the tools / time to do it yourself.
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There is a certain torque required on bottom bracket itself into the frame and also on the crank bolt (if it is solid axel type). It turns out that although tight enough to hold the wheel in place, the rear quick release was not tight enough. It's amazing how hard it is to identify where the noise/clicking is coming from when you're in motion.
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Bicycle Components: What's The Real Difference? I am buying my first 'real' road bike soon and am comparing the Shimano Ultegra vs. the 105. I have read through their websites and marketing literature. What does the semi-vast price difference do for a cyclist, who isn't riding the TDF? <Q> There's a couple of things here. <S> As you move up the groupsets, what you're buying into is essentially smoothness and lightness. <S> But for a recreational rider, you'd basically need the groupset to hit a certain minimum level of quality, and anything beyond that would be lost by the rider. <S> And my guess is that for many of us the minimum level of quality is probably even lower than 105 - Tiagra and these days maybe even Sora. <S> In terms of reliability, you could also argue that there is an advantage to a lower-level groupset, because you're riding tried-and-tested technology rather than the "leading edge" technology used by the higher level groupsets (Dura Ace, Ultegra). <S> So why do shops sell the top-end groupsets? <S> I think there is a big psychological aspect to this, and this is my second point. <S> On the one hand they are serving the interests of the top-end riders. <S> But on the other hand, they are also catering for a huge bunch of riders (and I include myself in this category) who ride these groupsets simply because they can afford to do so. <S> As @mattnz says in his comment, it is all about vanity. <S> It's exactly the same reason a guy will drive a Ferrari when he could get get from A to B just as quickly (assuming speed limits are observed) in a Ford. <S> Last, on a practical note, its worth saying that groupsets cost a lot less when bought as part of a bike, than they do when bought standalone. <S> However, upgrading piecemeal is possible (albeit as I say at a premium). <S> Just note that the current range of Ultegra (6800) is 11-speed, whereas the current 105 (5700) is 10-speed. <S> So to upgrade a 105 part to an Ultegra part, you'd need to look at older (10-speed) Ultegra ranges (6600 or 6700) or even 10-speed Dura Ace (7800). <S> But certainly 6700 is still widely available. <A> At the 105 group level and above the primary differences are not in function, but marginal weight reduction and increased durability. <A> Some levels of group set give higher level of customisation too, like shorter or longer crank length for example or shifter adjustability. <S> Electric group sets also give some functionality too, i.e. not having to adjust/tune derailleurs and guaranteed perfect shift every time. <S> Other than functionality <S> there's weight and bling, which could be socially important. <S> I prefer a balance approach, if you're buying a top level bike, then get Dura Ace to match. <S> If it's a second level bike, then get Ultegra, and so on. <S> Otherwise you will risk someone (like me ;) asking why you put tiagra on a nice bike, you're not doing justice and so on.
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So if you're the type of rider who will say "if only I had a better bike I could smash my pb", you're better off by going for the superior groupset straight away - it will be cheaper in the long run than getting the lesser groupset and upgrading parts piecemeal. First there are the physical properties of the groupsets. 105 is a good choice for most recreational cyclists.
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Why does my bike crank creak and come loose? I recently purchased a Trek FX 7.2 and about 2 weeks after purchase I was riding and I noticed a creaking sound and shortly after the crank fell off. I brought bike back to where I purchased it and they put the crank back on and put the chain derailleur back on as it fell off. Great, no problems with the bike until about 1-2 weeks after where I was out riding and I noticed a creaking noise on the same spot, the left crank. As soon as this started I went right home and tightened the crank the creaking went away. I guess what I am asking is what can I do to the bike so that it does not creak and fall off every 2 weeks. I am a large person standing 6 foot 1 and about 270 pounds. Is the problem I have just a heavy man problem where I need to bring the allen key with me always and tighten it every 2 weeks or can something be done to avoid this entirely? <Q> Square taper cranks are easily damaged if they a ridden loose. <S> You may find that the only fix is to replace the crank. <S> If after tightening to the correct torque they continue to loosen, they must be replaced. <S> Over tightening, while tempting, is not the correct solution and will lead to maintenace problems down the track. <S> (Essentially someone will have to remove the crank for some reason, it will keep coming loose after that and eventually be replaced. <S> The process of fixing will take several attempts as the presumption will be the crank is in good condition when it is not) <S> As the crank has come loose again, ask them to replace it. <S> If they refuse, be prepared to take your bike back every two weeks until they install new ones. <S> Do not "fix" the bike yourself. <S> The LBS might claim it was something you did that caused the problem. <A> The crank arm bolts must tightened properly using a torque wrench. <S> Too loose <S> and they can work themselves free and too tight and you can strip threads. <S> I would have that bike shop take the crank apart, make sure that the threads are all still intact and then to tighten it to the proper tension and perhaps using the appropriate threadlock if applicable. <S> Note that it's very hard to get the requisite torque with an Allen key. <S> I have to use a hex bit in my torque wrench and use some force to get to the right torque. <A> The Trek FX series is their fitness line, and these have a max rider capacity of 300 lbs. <S> Don't worry, it isn't your weight. <S> And I applaud you buying a bike to get in shape. <S> It's why I bought one too. <A> .... <S> i had problems with my 2009 Trek 4500 with the crank creaking. <S> Ended up using a plain old washer on the bolt as a spacer...worked a charm and no issues in the last 18mths. <S> Currently have a trek stache with the creak issue. <S> Bolt is thicker so haven't found a washer that will fit on it to see if that will fix the issue as well...
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If the crank bolt coming loose is the only issue, perhaps try some locktite on the bolt...go medium strength so you can remove it in the future if needed Take the bike back to the the shop.
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Can you attach front panniers to shocks? I'm going on a bike trip and need the extra storage supplied by front panniers. But my bike has front suspension. I can replace the fork with a solid one but that will increase my costs. Is it A) possible,B) a good idea, to attach panniers to forks w suspension? <Q> Yes, it's common. <S> Many low rider racks come with oversize U bolts specifically for this purpose, and the better ones bolt on to the brake posts like the Old Man Mountain rack shown below. <S> There are a few caveats. <S> Suspension forks are not as strong as solid ones - they're designed to take a specific set of forces and avoid others by being suspension forks. <S> I'd fill the front panniers with low density stuff <S> (clothes, sleeping bag etc). <S> Second, don't overtighten the clamps. <S> If you crush the wall of the fork even slightly it is very likely to fail. <S> You can also put a handlebar bag on as usual, but those are designed for small, light items and are essentially a big wallet - cash, phone, camera. <A> I have an Old Man Mountain Pioneer mounted on a Cannondale Fifty-Fifty (Headshock Fatty suspension forks). <S> I use Ortlieb Front Roller Plus panniers. <S> I do pack the panniers with light items only (Therm-a-rest mattresses, sleeping bag, clothes). <S> I don't have a handlebar-bag, I use the left side front pannier for that. <S> I chose the OMM Pioneer design for two reasons (vs. OMM Ultimate Lowrider): <S> I also do a lot of commuting with this bike. <S> I wanted clearance on the side of the wheels for getting on-off pavements, harder terrains. <S> The top surface is helpful to mount large-and-light items (after shopping, sleeping bag, paper boxes). <S> After several long tours, I can say they work well. <A> Yes but there are questions often raised about the handling effects and the way they are mounted. <S> My understanding is that the approach taken with the Tubus Swing which I have is considered less optimal than the approach adopted by Old Man Mountain illustrated above. <S> That said I have a Tubus Swing rack on my Giant XTC 2 and have found that it works well, <S> but then I am not a technical off road rider :). <S> One point to note <S> but is that you may see that I was not able to get it horizontal <S> so the panniers do tend to slide back towards the bike if not fitted tightly. <S> Also the Swing is probably best with smaller front panniers only. <A> When originally designed the Tubus Swing bolted directly to the upper leg clamp bolts of a Marzocchi Bomber fork. <S> Very neat! <S> It was subsequently redesigned with the ugly and heavy 'universal clamp' arrangement so it would fit any suspension fork. <S> I had a friend turn up some tiny spacers on his lathe, and with careful modification of some longer S/S hex-head bolts I've been able to restore the mounting to this original design. <S> It's on my old mtb with its original Bomber (coil + oil damping) fork. <S> Great touring set up. <S> Sam.
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If you're really lucky your suspension fork will have mounts for standard low-rider racks already (that's very rare though). First, try to put minimal weight in those panniers.
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Good Brands for Front Pannier Rack on Suspension Forks I've heard people talk a lot about Old Man Mountain racks. What other options are there? Roughly speaking, in your experience, how do they compare? I'm specifically interested in this for touring but that probably goes without saying given the product. I have a set of ortlieb front runner bags. so i just need the racks to attach them over mount bike suspension forks. <Q> Get the rack first or get them together. <S> You need the panniers to attach solid. <S> Not all racks have the same places to attach. <S> I have Surly Ortleib combo <S> but that is like $200. <S> An over the top design like this gives you more storage. <S> And you could lash some stuff and maybe skip the panniers. <S> Those two little tabs on the bottom are nice for lashing. <S> SurlyRack Give yourself an hour or two to install. <S> Lots spacers and lots of positions. <S> And on a fork look for threads at the bottom of the fork and mid fork. <S> That bike also has threads on the inside for another attachment point but don't worry about that. <S> Go to the gallery. <S> Vaya <A> Edit:Front pannier rack for suspension fork Load on wheel or on frame: Front rack mounted on the suspension fork <S> Front rack mounted on the frame <S> I'm not sure if there is a preference between the two. <S> Anyway, the latest recommendation for loaded touring is to have wide balloon tyres, research shows they give better comfort vs. suspension forks. <S> Vertical position: Mid and high rider Low rider -- <S> I have a Cannondale Fifty-Fifty <S> , it has a front suspension fork (Fatty Headschock).After <S> a lot of investigation, I decided to get an Old Man Mountain Pioneer <S> .It needed a bit of fiddling at the beginning, but afterwards it mounted well. <S> Ortlieb Front Roller Plus panniers are hanging on the lower bars of the rack. <S> This was the main reason to get the Pioneer, so the center of gravity can be a bit lower. <S> The rack is rock solid, works excellent. <S> I have been on several long tours with it, works well. <S> The only difficulty I have is that there are <S> three bottle cages+bottles mounted on my frame. <S> The bottle on the downside of the downtube is kicked by the panniers when the wheel flips over. <S> With a usually "wheel centered" pannier mounting this wouldn't happen, or with a safety latch found on the headtube of Idworx or Tout Terrain bikes. <S> In case you don't have mid-fork eyelets, and it is needed: <S> 72100 <S> (for diameters 20-32mm) <S> Tubus Montageset LM-BF, Art. <S> 72200 <S> (for diameters 25-40mm) <S> Tubus says it's not good for suspension forks, because you need to be careful not to overtighten these (you can damage the fork). <S> Other brands and makes to consider, depending on your forks mounting possibilities: <S> Nitto M12 Nitto M18 <S> Racktime Top-it <S> Sella-Berolinum mini-porteur <S> Copenhagen Parts Bike Porter HEBIE Low Rider <S> Tubus Nova Tubus Smarti Tubus Tara <S> A video and article about the Freeload Touring Front rack: Video Article <S> The Giant Expedition AT has suspension forks, and factory supplied racks: <S> Tubus Montagesets: <A> http://www.thule.com/en-us/us/campaigns/thule-packnpedal/thule-pack-n-pedal Fits pretty much any bike, front or rear, with or without suspension. <S> Adding the side rails gives you lower center of gravity. <A> Racks specific for front suspension are not so common and there are questions often raised about the handling effects. <S> Personally I have a Tubus Swing rack on my Giant XTC 2 and have found that works well, <S> but then I am not a technical off road rider :). <S> On the downside I believe that Tubus have stopped making the Swing so it may be harder to find. <S> That said it is still listed on their website so the rumours maybe incorrect. <S> If it is true I think this leaves you with the option only of the Old Man Mountain offerings. <S> RegardsAndrew
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Tubus Montageset LM-1, Art. Suspension Fork specific racks: Delta Megarack Front Loader Freeload Touring Front Rack (bought up by Thule) Old Man Mountain Ultimate Lowrider Surly Front Rack VO Porteur Front-Rack Basil Memories Front Gepäckträger
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Is it worth it to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or add them later? Is it better to buy a bike that comes with puncture resistant tires, or get a cheaper bike that comes with worse tires and then get them replaced? <Q> Don't decide your bike based on the stock tires. <S> Tires are consumable components, and will not last like the rest of the components will. <S> Tires are cheap, changing the frame or drivetrain is expensive. <S> Just ride the stock tires until they are worn out, then replace them with the puncture resistant tires, if by that point they are still important to you. <S> Many shops will swap out various components as part of a purchase anyway, so you can have your cake and eat it too. <A> You can get puncture resistant inner tubes, liners, or just squeeze a bunch of Slime into the current inners. <S> Or not worry about it, keep your tires properly inflated, and be a happy camper. <A> I have purchased mine aftermarket, and they added so many miles, and trips it's unreal. <S> Let's face it changing tires and fixing flats is a hassle <S> and I was having one once a week or around every 100 miles, until I changed to thicker tires. <S> So in my case I say tires may not be the most expensive component <S> but they effect the overall biking experience greatly. <S> Good luck buying!
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Either way from my experience whether you spend the money up front or afterward puncture resistant tubes and tires are worth the expense.
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Bike trying to jumps gears when I stand My 2014 Norco storm 9.2 has a problem - whenever I am in a higher gear and standing up it tends to click and try to jump gears. When I am sitting down it does not do this. It only happens when I stand. Do you have any suggestions to help me? <Q> I presume you mean the rear derailleur jumps to a higher (harder to pedal) <S> gear when you stand up to pedal hard <S> , right? <S> This is a common rear derailleur problem, happens only under high chain tensions, and more likely with inexpensive or worn rear derailleurs. <S> It shouldn't do that, as it can be dangerous to the rider. <S> So you need to get it fixed. <S> Your rear derailleur either needs an adjustment, or a replacement spring, or you need to replace it with a new or better one. <A> Judging by the information provided: The frame is probably bending when you stand causing the chain to come out of alignment with the deraileurs and cassete/cogs. <S> I have a full suspension that can do that too when you pedal hard out of the seat. <S> Did you notice if it occurs in higher or lower gears and was the chain very tight? <S> (will help narrow down the problem) <A> The easiest thing to check, before replacing any other parts, is whether the chain has stretched as a stretched chain could cause this problem. <S> Measure 12 links; each link should be precisely 1 inch. <S> If the 12 links are 2-3mm longer (0.75 - 1%) than 12 inches the chain needs replaced.
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When replacing a chain you will most likely need to replace the cassette (rear gears) as well as they will be worn to the same degree as the chain.
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Does the National Bike Registry work? The National Bike Registry is an nationwide registry of bikes with identifying information (serial numbers, make/model, owner information) in the US that is intended to help identify stolen or impounded bikes. There are of course other bike registries such as the recent Bike Index , many municipal registries, and the International Bike Registry . Are these registries effective, both at reducing bike theft (i.e. if you put a sticker on your bike thieves are less likely to steal it) or in tracking down stolen bikes? <Q> Police departments do recover a lot of bikes; but, since it's usually impossible to trace ownership, most of them end up in police auctions. <S> The bike registries help to solve this problem, so that if your bike winds up in the hands of the police, there's at least a fair chance they'll be able to get it back to you. <S> If the tag is still on the bike, the cops (or a bike shop) won't have to look in five or six different databases. <S> They'll know which one to check. <S> But I agree it would be much better to have a single national (or better yet, worldwide) database. <S> I have a nice bike, and I know that there's no single way to prevent losing it to the creeps who go around stealing bikes. <S> But the more I do, the better my chances are. <A> After reading this today, I called the three local law enforcement groups; Santa Cruz County Sheriff, Capitola City Police, and Santa Cruz City Police. <S> NONE of them use ANY of these online databases. <S> They all use a stolen bike database that is exclusive to law enforcement. <S> In California if the value of the bike is $900 or less it gets listed in a California only database. <S> If the value is over $900, it gets listed in a national database. <A> Bike Registration is a solved problem. <S> It's what Bike Index has done. <S> It's the largest independent registry in the world <S> It's free to register (it's not for profit) <S> It provides automated registration for bike shops Police use and search it <S> It does lots of other things and is open source Bike Index recovers stolen bikes ( <S> > 2600 to date), because it works. <S> Additionally : Bikes have serial numbers, adding additional registration points (such as stickers) is counterproductive, since it adds one more thing to track (and another point of failure). <S> Disclaimer: I'm a co-founder of Bike Index. <S> I built it because I was frustrated by existing registries and that they took advantage of bicyclist without delivering. <S> Reasons National Bike Registry is a scam: <S> it costs money to register registrations expire (and aren't transferable) limited and inaccessible search for stolen bikes <S> No support, it's impossible to reach them <S> no maintenance or updates Paying National Bike Registry for a registration is absurd, it doesn't do anything. <S> Don't give them your money. <A> Its hard to say for a few reasons, but I'd be inclined to tend towards its not very effective: 1) <S> People have to be aware of it. <S> 2) <S> It doesn't physically provide any security. <S> 3) <S> The people who use this are likely to use it on nicer bikes so it could act as an attracting mark. <S> As far as I can tell, for the most part, the stickers could easily be removed or the bikes could be stripped for parts or more likely just used as is in a city (where delivery boys or whatever need cheap bikes frequently and don't really care where they're from, or whatever) <S> - the bike would have to go through a bike shop which saw the sticker, and on top of that, did query the number in order to make use of it. <S> Or, recovering an impounded bike. <A> Having lots of bikes registered would make the registry more effectively. <S> If bike shops automatically registered every bike sold and governments that license bike automatically registered every bike, the system would be more more effective. <S> these processes could be computerized so that the shops and government needed very little additional effort. <A> Perhaps we need a meta-index, one that searches all the bike indexers in all the countries, then reports on matches based on serial number / brand / engravings etc. <S> Something like a email RBL blacklist DNS searcher, like https://mxtoolbox.com/problem/blacklist/ <S> Personally I'd expect the sticker to be one of those permanent ones, or forgo that and use engraving on the steel/alloy frame.
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The point of the National Bike Registry, and similar schemes, isn't so much to prevent theft as it is to make it (sometimes) possible to recover a bike after it's been stolen. Downside is, police don't have a lot of time for low value recoveries like this, so there's no incentive to use these databases.
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Bike gears not shifting how they should So I've not cycled in a while but my step dad was using my bike and he has a habbit of breaking stuff. I have since decided to start cycling to work again and I replaced various parts due to rust etc (Chain, Cassette, brake pads, cables) and seeing as they didn't work properly in the first place I decided to take some time to tune the gears. Now I think I understand them but the issue I have is: On the cassette at the back the gears will happily and smoothly shift from 7 to 1 under load or not under load. But going from 1-7 it will ignore me when I switch to 2 but when I then go 2-3 it will skip over 2 and onto 3. So the question is: Why does it work perfectly from 7-1 under any load but then under any load it will not go 1-2 but every other gear works? It's literally that 1 down to 2 that won't work. Please take note that there is no grinding noise or anything when i flick from 1-2 it quite literally just ignores me and makes 100% no attempt to switch but it happily jumps over 2 to 3 when I flick down to 3. <Q> A rear derailleur moves two ways <S> : the tension from the shifter cable will pull it one way (usually towards the larger rear cogs) and spring tension within the derailleur will pull it back when you shift down into the smaller cogs. <S> It sounds like the spring tension is not strong enough to overcome the cable tension / resistance when you're shifting. <S> If you had to replace other rusty parts, you can try oiling or just replacing the derailleur cable and housing. <S> If those are rusty or sticky, then your derailleur spring has to pull a lot harder to get things to move. <S> I have also had shifting troubles when the derailleur hanger is bent, causing the mechanism to swing the wrong way when I was shifting. <S> You can get a bike shop to check / straighten the hanger, or if you don't have a hanger (claw type derailleur) <S> you can try to do it yourself. <A> It is harder to go to a bigger (more teeth) <S> gear as the chain is going up hill. <S> Hyperglide helps the up hill. <S> The smallest gear is often loose. <S> Not even sure you can put it on backwards. <S> But if you could and if you did then the hyperglide would be backwards. <S> Maybe worth checking. <A> I think the derailleur cable may be too loose. <S> Try increasing the tension in the cable a tad and see if that helps. <S> On many bikes you can increase the cable tension both at the derailleur and at the shifter using the thumbscrew. <A> I had a similar issues getting into my 16 tooth gear but not coming out of it. <S> After checking online and talking to a few good LBS <S> the common answer was to swap out the cassette and chain. <S> I had wondered if simply swapping one gear in the cassette would do it and in the end the prevailing answer is that Shimano cassettes work better as a group and by not swapping the whole thing out you are only delaying the inevitable. <S> This might seem silly and a little OCD <S> but I usually also take the same time to clean the BB and wipe dow the crankset with WD40. <S> this gives my chain a few rides with that nice "new look".
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If that doesn't help, either lube or replace the cable, and lube all the derailleur pivots. Turns out that gear had some teeth worn down which made shifting a little sticky. As for the chain, it just makes sense to put a new chain on a new cassette so that none of the nasties infect the new cassette.
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I need help to identify this bike This is my mother in law's bicycle from when she was a child. While cleaning out a lean-to on the back forty I found this bike inside. I was hoping to give her a bike that is identical to hers that is restored for a birthday or Christmas. With that I need to learn more about this specific bike. My Mother-In-Law was born in 1952 in Eastern, NC. Given that I would assume that the bicycle purchased at a local hardware store, from the sears catalog, or was handed down from a sibling. Her three older sisters were born between 1932-1942 - thus if this was a bike of theirs it would probably be from 1937-1948... but I find this scenario less likely as they are half siblings. All of that together, I would have to assume that the bike was built in the 1955-1960 time frame. Thank you for taking time to look through these photos and any guidance is appreciated. <Q> Your bike is a JC Higgins sold at Sears stores. <S> Not exactly sure of the year <S> but I think most Komet hubs were used in the late 50's into the 60's. <S> Just Google JC Higgins bicycle and <S> I'm sure you'll find a picture of one just like yours. <S> Good luck and don't give up on it. <S> When she sees it looking like it did when she was a kid, it will bring back many childhood memories. <S> That is priceless. <A> Your serial number description STATES that this is a "Murray of Ohio" manufactured bike. <S> Serial number on bottom bracket means before 1965... <S> the factory was removed from Ohio and located in Tenn. from ~1952 on. <S> The 502 means Sears... check out late 1950s to 1960s catalogs for the 5 digit model number that's between MOD and the lower larger serial number. <S> Murray was ONE of the manufacturers of Sears JC Higgins <S> badged bikes... <S> the blue example with basket is right on. <S> A Schwinn? <S> NO WAY.... <S> frame joints <S> [where rear stays meat seat post under seat and top down bar from head-tube meats seat post above bottom bracket... see the "collets"?] <S> and even tubing size are not Schwinn work or design [Where two 'down-bars' are joined by small welded tube (and so is Schwinn you found) <S> Your 'welded tube is longer... <S> bars are further apart... than the Schwinn]. <S> I've a zillion Schwinn and a few Murray bikes. <S> the Murray frame extends about two inches to a point, beyond the drop-out slot. <S> NO ONE else's does... look @ <S> the Schwinn again <S> and that distinction will come alive for you. <A> Thank you for all of your help and encouragement. <S> When I arrived home from work I flipped the bike over, got some of the serial numbers. <S> From what I can tell the bike seems to be a 1956/1957 Schwinn Spitfire Ladies - Model F71c. <S> Below is a 1956 Schwinn Spitfire - Model F71c. <S> I have come to this conclusion on two parts... <S> 1 - the Serial Number <S> The M0D502 serial renders this on the Schwinn Cruisers Website. <S> Built: 09/06 to 09/07 of 1956. <S> 2 <S> - The only example I can find of a Top Tube connected to the down tube with a Welded tube (I am unsure of the term used to identify this) was on a '57 Spitfire. <S> (See below) <S> so I would assume that the bike was built in the Fall of 56, sent to a local hardware/farm storm where it sat for a year in inventory and picked up that next fall/winter. <S> Would an expert agree on the likelihood of this bike being a 1956/57 Schwinn Spitfire? <S> Thanks again for all of your help. <S> The Serial reads M0D502 (small top left)The Serial reads 46772 <S> (medium right)The large Serial reads 13 5 124 Bolted kickstand <S> Does anyone know about this Komet Super denotation? <S> Thanks again for all of your assistance <A> I would not give up on that bike. <S> Stuff that is definitely bad <S> you can most likely replace: wheels, fork, headset, handle bars, crank, seat post and seat. <S> Stuff that would be hard to find is OK. <S> Fenders and chain guard are fine. <S> To me it is worth seeing how bad that frame is. <S> At the crank it looks pretty good. <S> Pull the rear wheel and check the dropout - if bad give up. <S> Pull the seat and fork and see if it is rusted from the inside. <S> If inside looks OK then hit the worst rust with 600 sand paper. <S> If you can sand to bare metal by hand in a few minutes then you only have surface rust. <S> Yes you may have more than just surface rust here <S> but it would only take an hour to find out. <S> If you could restore THAT bike that would be cool. <S> Based on a comment to your own answer you trying a restore. <S> When (if) it comes paint time consider a car paint shop where they have a real paint booth and professional paint. <S> They will tell you if you got all the rust. <S> If you leave any rust it will eventually bubble through the paint. <S> It is hard to paint like pro (with a booth). <S> Be flexible on the color and live with a color that is going on a car. <A> The frames are not the same at all, so it is not the same as the blue Schwinn bike. <S> The main frame tubes that run from the handle bar column are wider at the top and are narrow down by the sprocket area. <S> The blue bike frame is just the opposite, the frame is narrow at the top and become wider towards the sprocket area.
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If you have rust from the inside then give up. The man above who ID'd your bike as a JC HIGGINS sold by Sears was telling you correct.... One Murray built bike called a Marfield [made for Marshall Field's department store]. The rear of your frame... behind the drop-out... where one is split... My mother in law was given the bike at 6 or 7 years of age.... Built: 08/13 to 08/23 of 1954 or... A custom color is expensive as they have to buy the paint and mix it.
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What are the most important accessories for a new biker to get? I am a new biker and am going to be commuting to work on a hybrid. There are many cool accessories that help you carry gear, bike at night, track your rides, make adjustments and quick repairs like fixing flats, and more. It's very cool that there's so much that one can do to 'pimp their ride' so to speak but it can be overwhelming and it's hard to know where to start, especially for those (like me!) who are working on a budget and who needs to pick and choose because they can't afford to buy a ton of gear. My question is, where to start? In your view, besides the obviously necessary safety items like a bike lock and helmet, what are some of the must-have accessories that would be most important or most useful for a new or returning biker, and why? Note: I know that there's already a question on the most useful accessory category . I want to focus on the most important accessories for a new biker , especially city bikers. <Q> multi-tool lights first-aid kit <A> The most important things imho are tools to fix flats (patches, glue, tire levers, any tools needed to get the wheels off) and keep the bike alive (chain oil, some rags (old T-shirts will do), something to clean the bike with) <A> I think it's pretty situational - there are so many things that you might do with said bike. <S> Some basic tools for maintaining the bike would be helpful. <S> Some suggestions, in no particular order: A pump for keeping tire pressure up Spare inner tubes/puncture repair kit. <S> maybe a multitool? <S> You can do seat/handlebar adjustments with them, and they often have tire levers. <S> I know that's three things, <S> but really you cant have one without the others - puncture repair kits without a pump <S> would still leave you rather immobile! <A> Depending on your climate, rain gear. <S> It can get expensive real fast, so <S> I've learned to check thrift stores/garage sales for rain jackets and pants. <S> If the items are barely used, it's well worth the savings. <S> The liner helps protect the waterproof layer from being rubbed off from repeated use. <S> I learned this lesson after my first ($130) rain jacket started leaking within a year of proper use and care (and spraying with Camp-Dry).
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bike helmet lock puncture repair kit or spare tube and a mini pump I also will occasionally spray the rain gear with Kiwi's Camp-Dry after washing/drying them if water is starting to penetrate the material. Try to find a jacket with a mesh liner everywhere inside the jacket.
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Serial numbers on bottom bracket housing from a 50s era Schwinn? Can someone please explain what these three numbers mean on the pedal crank housing?I believe this to be the pedal crank housing from a 1956 Spitfire Ladies Bike. The Schwinn Serial reads M0D502 (hard to see but top left)The next number reads 46772 (medium right)The large number reads 13 5 124 One of my concerns is this... The Schwinn serial numbers that date the bike to the fall of 1954 or 1956, but I believe the Serial numbers for 54 and the 56 were located on the Left Rear Dropout - not located on the bottom bracket of the pedal crank housing. Why would this be? Additionally what does the 46772 indicate? and what does the 13 5 124 indicate? Thank you so much for all of your help! <Q> Are you sure that this is a Schwinn bicycle? <S> With all the numbers stamped on the BB it looks like Sears-Roebuck. <S> The 46772 might be the Sears catalog number. <A> https://bikehistory.org/schwinn.php?serial=M0D502 <S> This site attempts to decode the serial number, and if it is "M zero D five zero two" then the decoded result is Congrats! <S> Your bike is an original Chicago Schwinn. <S> Unfortunately the serial number you entered was used twice by Schwinnmeaning there are two possible dates for your bike... <S> Built: <S> 08/13 to 08/23 of 1954 or... <S> Built: 09/06 to 09/07 of 1956. <S> https://bikehistory.org/catalogs/1956.html <S> https://bikehistory.org/catalogs/1954.html <S> And more catalogues may be found at <S> https://bikehistory.org/catalogs/ <S> So you might browse through looking for something that matches your bike. <A> I am 100% that is a Murray bicycle. <S> Mod stands for. <S> Murray Ohio and the letter d is the year 1939 nice bike!
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None of the numbers on the BB match the Schwinn serial number formats of the 1950s.
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Does it make you safer to use lights during the day? My bike light, the Cygolite Metro 360 , has a "Daylighting" mode which flashes very brightly and is intended to be used during the day. Similarly, many tail lights have flashing modes. Obviously one should bike with lights at night. But is it advisable to bike with lights on (in flashing mode) during the day as well, to alert cars to your presence? Or does it not make much of a difference? If there are any scientific studies or data on this, please reference. <Q> According to Safety effects of permanent running lights for bicycles: A controlled experiment. <S> (Madsen JC1, Andersen T, Lahrmann HS.) <S> they give about a 19% reduction in crash rates. <S> There's a copy of the paper in Scribd as pdf. <S> Every reference I've been able to find appears to refer to this one study. <S> The incidence rate, including all recorded bicycle accidents with personal injury to the participating cyclist, is 19% lower for cyclists with permanent running lights mounted; indicating that the permanent bicycle running light significantly improves traffic safety for cyclists <S> Wikipedia has a few articles, starting with daytime running lights (reports largely positive results) and bicycle lighting which gives a link in Danish that appears to refer to the Odense study above but claims 32% reduction. <S> A large-scale experiments with daytime running lights on bicycles among 4,000 cyclists in Odense shows 32% reduction in cyclist accidents. <S> The result is so striking that Councilman Wikipedia Daytime Running Lights links to Google books copy of OECD, International Transport Forum (2013), Cycling, Health and Safety , but I can't copy'n'paste out of it <S> so here's an image: <S> A BicycleForums anecdote <S> resulted in a largely positive discussion, and there's this rant <S> that concludes they're essential. <S> The Australasian College of Road Safety amongst others is strongly support of them for motor vehicles <S> so it's fair to assume bicycle riders would gain something from the practice. <S> FWIW <S> I'm convinced. <S> I have dynamo lights on my commuter bike that I never turn off (they have standlights so they go off a few minutes after I stop moving). <A> So, I've done a lot of (non-academic) research on bike lights for this site's community blog and more recently for the bike lights resource site I created, The Bike Light Database . <S> There is a disappointing lack of hard scientific data on bike lighting at all, and essentially none regarding this specific question. <S> I can tell you from extensive anecdotal experience that a flashing light definitely helps during the day, both forward-facing and rear-facing. <S> A small AAA-powered blinky light won't do much for you, but if you have a high-output light on during the day, drivers give you much more respect. <S> From the rear, they tend to slow down more and pass with a wider distance. <S> On the front end, I'm much less likely to get cut off by drivers pulling out of driveways or side streets who think they have enough time to make it but don't quite. <S> A flashing light is more useful during the day since there's so much more ambient light to compete with. <S> The human eye responds to a flashing light more quickly than a solid light because it appears like movement. <S> At night the flashing can be very distracting, but during the day there's not a high risk of disorienting drivers since again, there's so much ambient light. <S> When Cygolite first released the lights with their Day Flash mode they told me that they had done some studies that led them to selecting a certain minimum brightness for their day flash. <S> I'll email me contact over there and see if I can find out what sort of research they did and if they can share any of that with us. <S> I also met a university researcher who's doing some studies regarding bike lights, <S> although last I talked with him it sounds like it was still a work in progress. <S> I'll see if he's doing any work with daytime lighting and if he can share any of that as well. <A> Most automobiles in the US now include daytime running lights, since there were studies showing that this did increase other drivers' awareness of them. <S> If you want the scientific studies, knowing that the keywords are "automobile daytime running lights" is likely to help you find them. <S> It isn't entirely clear whether that effect fades when daytime running lights become the norm rather than an exception. <S> It also isn't entirely clear whether it would apply with the smaller lights on bicycles. <S> However, I think this is a case of "It's not likely to hurt, and anything that makes a driver notice you might help." <S> (With the possible exception of drunk drivers, who have a bad habit of swerving toward whatever has caught their attention. <S> But there are fewer drunks on the road during the day.) <S> Will it help enough to justify its cost in batteries? <S> I haven't a clue. <S> Sounds like a great opportunity to run another study, if someone's looking for a thesis project. <A> My experience is that yes a strong flashing light in daylight helps being seen. <S> I live in a large city that is not particularly bike friendly and I definitely feel it helps. <S> I took these picture through my truck window in full sunlight at 1:00 PM. <S> This is 400 lumens. <S> A light is a safety tool. <S> On cross streets and driveways don't assume the vehicle is going to stop and don't assume they see you. <S> I wait for the vehicle to stop <S> and I wait for them to look at me. <S> With a light they don't just see you better <S> it is easier to tell they saw you. <S> They will hesitate on the light and then typically make eye contact. <S> I feel like the super bright makes a difference. <S> They don't just see you - you get their attention. <S> I know you ask about daylight <S> but at night a powerful light puts out enough light for vehicles to see your light from a cross street. <S> You might think I don't need a $100 600 lumen light to see the road and at low speeds you don't. <S> The higher power lithium ion led lights we have today <S> I feel are much more effective for be seen.
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Daytime running lights improve cyclist safety significantly A head light addresses cross traffic and head on traffic. Too often vehicles are looking for vehicles and don't see a bike that is in plain site.
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How do I get rid of odor from cycling shoes? So I have a pair of: Diadora X-Country 2 MTB Shoes (pic below) How would I go about cleaning them, primarily to remove odor? I am tempted to put this in the washing machine- but the cleet is totally stuck to the shoe (imagine 7,000km, mostly in the wet). Brush + washing up liquid? What about the inside sole etc? Any tips? Update:I ended up using some handwash (with anti bacterial) and a brush/toothbrush and got the following results: <Q> Simple, yet powerful solution - pour max 1 teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate (baking soda, found in any store) into the shoes before or after wearing them. <S> It will kill the bacteria and any other "stuff" that produces bad smell. <S> It has no negative effects on skin whatsoever, except when applying it to freshly shaven skin - as it may cause inflammation of the skin (but, hey - everything does under that conditions). <S> It also doesn't paint socks or shirts (if you use it as a deodorant replacement). <S> I use it on daily basis. <S> Also, it's great if you don't want the irritations on skin from the deodorants. <S> Sodium Bicarbonate is odorless itself. <S> More info on Sodium Bicarbonate Cheers! <A> If odor is your main concern, I can highly recommend the so-called boot bananas . <S> You put them in your shoes whenever you are not using them, and it slowly kills all odors. <S> I have a pair of boot-bananas for a year now, and I am very enthousiastic about it, all odors are gone since I use them. <S> It did not use them for my cycling shoes though (they don't smell as far as I know), but for other sporting shoes. <S> It is not cheap, but certainly worth the money. <A> I try to not wash cycle shoes. <S> The old style without a fan seems to work better for shoes. <S> Leave the dryer in for a day and cook that bacteria. <S> No I don't have medical information the dryer gets hot enough to kill bacteria <S> but it seems to work. <S> It gets rid of the odor and the next time they get wet they don't seem to stink up as fast. <S> And a fresh set of socks with every ride. <S> According to this link you can kill odor bacteria with heat Foot odor Remove odor causing bacteria with Ozone, Sunlight, UV, Chemical, or Heat. <A> As far as drying, either grab a fan, or there are a lot of commercial solutions available. <S> They're mostly marketed for winter/ski boots, but they'll obviously work for any type of wet shoe. <A> Start by replacing the insoles. <S> Typically this is what smells the most in old bike shoes. <S> After that you can also clean the shoe itself following any one of the many suggested methods outlined in this thread. <S> But be sure to remove you nice new insoles first before cleaning the shoe itself. <S> Also try to thoroughly dry the shoe as fast as possible, <S> leaving the shoe damp for prolonged period will encourage growth of bacteria. <S> Good luck! <A> Dettol Liquid contains Chloroxylenol. <S> It kills bacteria and provides protection against germs which can cause infection and illness. <S> Dettol kills 99.9% of bacteria, such as E.coli and Influenza virus (H1N1). <S> Always read the label. <S> Serious, the smell is caused by bacteria and your mission is to kill them! <S> Put hot water, plenty of Dettol and your bacteria/shoes in a bucket. <S> Let it soak for one night. <S> Rinse and dry. <S> Enjoy the new smell! <A> You probably do not know this but baking soda can act as a good deodorizer for the shoes and sometimes even for the feet. <S> - <S> After using your shoes, sprinkle a little bit of baking soda on each one. <S> - Leave on the baking soda on the shoes overnight. <S> - Take off the baking soda from the shoes in the morning especially if it is already going to be used. <S> More info <A> This is a bit unconventional, but stay with me. <S> Take the shoes and place them in a plastic bag. <S> Remove as much air as you can from the bag and seal. <S> Place the bagged shoes in to the freezer. <S> Leave the shoes in the freezer at least overnight. <S> I based this on the idea that the cold temps of the freezer would kill most of the odor causing bacteria and it worked the times I've tried it, but your milage may very. <A> Buy a boot dryer. <S> Put your wet shoes and gloves on it after good rides. <S> It drys them out fast and prevents odors. <S> Great for winter commuting as well. <S> When my MTB shoes are covered in mud. <S> I just take them to the sink with a scrub brush. <S> Do a quick rinse and scrub the outside (about 2 min tops) to get the mud off and then toss on the dryer.
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I have found a boot/shoe dryer to be effective with odor. Some people put their shoes in the freezer, as it also kills a lot of the bacteria, which cause the bad smell, but I do not have first hand experience with that. Soaking them in a bucket of very diluted bleach water (~1 cap in a 5 gallon bucket) overnight should help with the odor.
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How should I transport Cannondale Bad Boy 5 INSIDE a BMW 4 Series Coupe? So, I have a Cannondale Bad Boy 5 and I'm LOVING it. I'd like to understand how to transport it. I have 2014 BMW 4 Series coupe. Even though I folded back seats (to maximize trunk storage), bike won't fit there (well at least not all the way anyway), so I gotta take one of the wheel off. The wheels are 700c discs and the fork is a Cannondale Lefty fork (i.e. attaches only on one side). my main concern is since i cannot easily take off front wheel due to lefty fork and i can use quick release to take the rear wheel off; What's better way to handle derailleur (without ruining your cloth, car, etc). Ideally I'd like to: use quick release to remove rear wheel, place chain into some sort of container (suggestions?), place bike along with separated wheel (derailleur up) inside of the car, go to wherever, and revert procedure. <Q> None of the other answers deal with the OPs desire to keep the bike inside the car, i.e. not on a rack. <S> Pedro sells a "chain keeper" which is designed to keep the chain on or near the derailleur when the rear wheel is off: <S> This should help you considerably (along with old towels and maybe a moving blanket) to put the bike cleanly in the car with the rear wheel off. <A> If cannot fit the bike in you have four options: Remove the front wheel and lower seat, this makes the bike much smaller. <S> This is the no cost, no change to car and medium effort to get wheel off and on and get bike in and out of car. <S> Mount a roof rack and use a carrier. <S> This is a medium cost, semi permanent (roof rack can be removed) and medium effort to get bike up and down. <S> This is an expensive permanent solution if you don't have a trailer hitch installed. <S> You can remove rack however and bike is very easy to get on and off rack. <S> Use a trunk mounted rack. <S> This is a cheap temporary solution. <S> Medium effort to mount rack on trunk easy to get bike on and off. <A> The BMW roof rack system can be found for ~120$ USD, and 140$ USD for the touring bike carrier. <S> Works extremely well. <A> If you literally mean inside then:If you are going to remove a wheel and lefty makes front difficult. <S> Then remove the rear and place derailleur up and near rear of trunk. <S> Why place the chain in a container - just leave the chain on the bike. <S> You still have dirt to deal with from front wheel but better than grease from derailleur and chain. <S> Get a rubber trunk mat. <S> Weathertech makes one for a BMW 4 Series Coupe. <S> I think it is bit conservative <S> but Cannodale has some very specific recomendations regarding racks. <S> 14_Cannondale_Owners_Manual.pdf <S> See page 101 Type of rack design <S> This is one rack that is wheel only YakimaFrontLoader
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Install a trailer hitch or tow bar and use a hard mount rack. To put the bike in the car, you have to take off at least one of the wheels.
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MTB with Road crank I would like to put an Road crank on my MTB, I basically only use it for commuting and I all the time find myself in the highest gear, 42/11... Is it possible to exchange my Shimano Deore HT2 crank with an Road-crank (with 50/34 tooth Wickwerks blade) or Cross-crank (with 46/36 tooth Wickwerks blade), are they compatible with the rear freewheel (Shimano 10 speed 11/34) and chain, and is it possible at all, can a Road bottom bracket fit into a MTB frame....??? -I know 34 or 36 tooth might be a little big as a smallest front blade, but I am from flat Denmark, I´m not going to climb mountains.... Bjarke EDIT , I can see that most people recommend changing just the blades and I guess thát is what I´ll do, can anyone point me to a 44/46/48 tooth blade (which should be enough, plus some sort of an "granny", I do think I will need a two-blade setup up front, not just a single) which will fit a Shimano 10-speed HT2 4 bolt crank, the Shimano jungle is not for beginners....??? The bike I will buy is this one http://www.feltbicycles.com/Sweden/2014/Bikes/mountain-29/nine-series/nine-3.aspx and I hope it will accommodate the higher tooth-count, otherwise I will just need to go with 44 teeth which will probably be fine with regards of gearing, but with regards of wearing out the 11 and 12 in the back it is probably a little low.... The bike where 42/11 was too little was a 26" and the Felt is a 29" with 38/11 as the highest gearing, without having calculated on it, I think the Felt is a little lighter in the heaviest gearing....-In the end I guess 44 is close to plenty.... With regards of cadense, the really heavy gear is for the (flat on the road) downhill with both the wind and the sun in the back, I do have a little low cadense though, but can´t really get away from it, old habits You know....;-) <Q> (As requested, turned comment into answer.) <S> - This question pops up quite often. <S> Most often the riders cadence is too low. <S> Presuming 26" wheels with 2" tires, 42/11 at a cadence of 80 is 38km/h, at 100 its 47km/h. <S> What speeds are you riding at? <S> If you are maintaining these speeds on a solo commute on a MTB, you should get in touch with your national cycling body ASAP, I am certain you will be invited onto a development squad. <S> As a first step measure how fast you are pedaling. <S> No need to get a cadence computer, although it would be easier, as counting 100 in 1 minute is not all that easy. <S> At your cruising speed, count your pedal stokes over 10 or 15 seconds and work out your cadence. <S> If it is above 80 go ahead and make the changes to the bike (and make that phone call). <S> If its below 70, improving riding technique would far be more beneficial (and probably more cost effective) than increasing gear-inches. <S> I can't help a lot with technique, mine's awful:), but a few ideas would be to read up and watch videos on the net, ask a (road) cycling mate, or join a club or pay for some coaching. <S> This question - <S> How can I improve my pedal stroke? <S> might provide some useful tips. <A> Yes, but with some caveats: Road rings are big. <S> You might have clearance issues with the chainstays. <S> Bottom bracket. <S> You might need a new bottom bracket to fit the spindle or change the spacing. <S> New chain. <S> Bigger rings require more chain (usually). <S> Front derailleur. <S> Derailleurs are meant to handle certain sizes, spacings, and mountings, your current one may not work. <S> Depending on the arrangement, there might be more things but these are the top ones that come to mind. <A> There are two issues. <S> Will the chainring and crank clear the stays? <S> Many modern MTB's are designed to only have a maximum chain ring of 44t or so. <S> They are also designed for the relatively wide Q-factor of MTB cranks vs road cranks. <S> Can you get the front derailler high enough to accommodate the larger chain ring? <S> Switching to a single ring in front solves 2 and you can get single rings for yourcrankset up to 50t. <S> 50/34 is still a pretty low gear on the roads. <S> Blackspire makes them. <S> http://www.blackspire.com/qs/product/83/5948/263228/0/0 <S> As far as the chain goes, if the cranks are spaced for 10 spd then you should have no problem. <S> The only real problem occurs when the chainrings are far enough apart that the skinny 10spd chain can get jammed between the chainrings.
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Adding some spacers to the chainring bolts can help with the clearance issue.
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Used-bike: How much to reserve for repairs/upgrades of total budget? Let's say I have 500€ to buy a second hand bike. How much of that budget shall I keep for repairs and upgrades, and how much shall I spend on the bike itself? Of course it depends on the condition of the bike, but I was wondering if there is some general wisdom about this. When buying a second hand car, the common wisdom says that ~30% of one's budget should be kept for immediate repairs and upgrades. So when someone has 10000€ for a second hand car, wisdom says to buy a car for 7000€, and keep the rest 3000€ for the repairs and upgrades after the buy. The resources I found had no mention about the expected costs of repairs and upgrades. I researched these topics already: What should I do to get an older bike into good condition? What should I look for when buying a used bicycle? How to tell if a bike is good before purchasing? Purchasing a bike Suggestions for budget mountain bike with opportunities for upgrade What to look out for in a second hand bike buy Buying a higher quality use bike vs. a lower quality new bike External resources: Buying used bikes for beginners Buying a Used Bike 2: Things to Look (Out) For How to buy a used bike Google search: how to buy a second hand bike <Q> For convenience here I've made some assumptions here about the type of bike you're buying, but since you don't say... <S> If I were buying a second-hand bike, I would examine the following as soon as I got it: <S> chain <S> cassette tyres <S> brake pads brake/gear cables (conceivable but unlikely) <S> and if any of these showed sufficient wear I would change them. <S> You can get a ballpark estimate of the associated cost from Google, but note that changing the top two and the last requires special tools, so you might need to factor these in as well (or mechanic costs). <S> I'd have thought all those items would come to a bit less than €100 as a guide, just the parts, with no labour or tools. <S> But you should take this with a pinch of salt because it depends on the specific items you get - you could quite easily blow €100 on a pair of tyres alone if the fancy took you. <S> Similarly you probably wouldn't have to change all of them, at least initially. <S> Provided the bike is in generally good condition, this should be all you need to change in the short term (first year or so). <S> But of course because it is used, you're taking a bit of a chance that it doesn't have other stuff wrong with it that you'll need to sort. <A> Maintenance costs will heavily depend on you. <S> Do you do your own maintenance? <S> Do you already have tools? <S> Do you take your bike to a bike shop to fix <S> it/lubricate/adjust? <S> I would say there is no general number for this. <S> Let's say that you decide to do your maintenance. <S> In general a bike running costs include: <S> Chain lubricant Brake pads <S> Tyres <S> You may consider: Cleaning set - you may reuse household items for this Standing pump with a pressure gauge <S> When budgeting when buying a bike you should include: Helmet Lights - e.g. a set of rechargeable front and back lights. <S> Bell Clothing - especially if you plan to commute you should consider a weather proof clothing Carry on fix <S> -it set: <S> Spare tube (I recommend getting multiple and carry at least one) Patches, glue on patches are easy to use Multi-tool Bike pump <S> If the bike is single speed/fixed gear you need a tool to unscrew the wheel nuts to change the tube Bag for the fix-it set (potentially saddle bag?) <S> Additionally, depending on the style of riding, your fitness, your preference, etc., you may want to consider: Water bottle holder and a water bottle Short fingered cycling gloves (mitts) <S> Shoes - if you're buying a bike for fitness/commuting you may consider purchasing a pair clip-in shoes (please check compatible pedals) <S> Backpack Lock Happy riding! <A> At my shop a typical "heavy" tuneup will cost about $130. <S> We have considerably cheaper labor costs than other shops, where that might be more like $200+. <S> That includes replacement of all the wear-and-tear items on a bike: brake pads, chain, freewheel/cassette, cables & housing. <S> Those are things that wear out ON EVERY BIKE regardless of what the bike costs initially. <S> This is also the general annual upkeep cost of owning a bike. <S> There is no ratio that will be helpful - there are too many variables - but what you can do is go to your local bike shop and ask what it usually costs for a tuneup with all the wear-and tear parts replaced. <S> That'll be your maximum cost.
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You'll get a more precise answer if you know what kind of bike you intend on getting.
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Are the Shimano BR650 brakes really Ultegra spec? Many ebay and other online vendors advertise the long-reach Shimano BR-650 brakes as being "Ultegra" series. However, looking at them they don't seem like they are top-of the line or really all that different in manufacture from 105-line Shimano brakes. The brakes themselves don't seem to say Ultegra on them anywhere but I haven't seen a box for them. Anyone know why they are listed as Ultegra? Edit: and if they aren't, what series are they? Deores? Altimas? OEMs? <Q> No, these brakes have nothing to do with Ultegra. <S> A lot of unscrupulous Ebay sellers put unrelated keywords into the title to get more search hits. <S> It's against Ebay rules, but it's pretty widespread, unfortunately. <A> Actually I think you will find they are Ultegra, circa something like 2009. <S> Since the technology trickles down you will find that they look like modern 105's. <S> Take a look at the CRC product listings for examples of both the modern Ultegra and the old BR-650. <S> http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/brakes?f=2259 <S> Note: the 2009 is a guess based on comments/reviews found online about that model. <A> According to Shimano's website , they are non-series components. <S> However, some websites such as this one claim they are Ultegra quality <S> (This wouldn't surprise me with Colin's answer). <S> That being said, TRP (e.g. RG957) among others still make high quality long reach calipers if you're willing to pay for them. <A> Unfortunately, Shimano did not continue with the updating of these long-reach road caliper brakes, if not, there should be the BR-680.
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In any case, none of the Shimano long reach calipers are part of a series anymore. These BR-650 is related to the old Ultegra 6500 Series.
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Polite/Proper Way To Notify Pedestrians and Bicycles A question on a bell had a lot of comments on how to notify pedestrians. How do you notify a pedestrian you need to pass? How do you notify a bicycle you need to pass? I imagine this will be region dependent so please state your region. This is getting a bit of response and it clearly varies by region. I will give it a couple more hours and just award the answer to the most votes. <Q> From Southern California, when approaching slower traffic from behind on bike lanes and paths: "On your left" meaning that you are passing them on their left-hand side. <S> Only left. <S> People hear the "On" portion of the call and they start moving to their right. <S> I can't ever recall hearing "On your right". <S> Good thing, too. <S> Would be a mess. <A> I send a single "ping" with my bell. <S> More pings only if I don't see the other person recognizing me (e.g. look at me, wave a hand, change direction etc). <A> I've noticed over the years that if I call out it startles people walking. <S> Most walkers don't expect someone on a bicycle let along someone calling out something they don't understand. <S> So my strategy now is when I get reasonably close <S> I cough. <S> Yup cough, it is a familiar sound and if it's on a quite street the walker will usually turn around to see who's behind them. <S> As a pass I give a friendly wave and sometimes a polite hello. <A> In Dayton, OH, the protocol seems to be sneak up on them and shout as your tire starts to overlap. <S> Majority of riders tend to not use bells (and only shout when it is too late) and a smaller slice have the miracle bell (miracle if the other person hears it). <S> However, I have installed dual action bells on all our bikes (or a bugle on my sons) and it allows us to notify at a farther distance with a greater chance of hearing us. <S> This works for both Bikes and Peds. <S> People responding to it tend to be less jumpy than when I used to shout. <S> It also saves my voice on the busier days. <A> To be on the safe side, I just bell from a good few yards back. <S> If that doesn't provoke a shoulder check, I just roll up slowly and issue a polite "'Scuse me, mind if I pass?"... <S> I think that's probably the best all-round approach anyway <S> - why should pedestrians on a shared path be expected to know "bike lingo" like "on your left"? <S> If it's a numpty with headphones, I find a very quick "pip" <S> with the AirZound works wonders ;) <A> Germany: <S> (I should explain that I'm mostly biking to get to/from work, so this is about urban streets. <S> But when I ride for fun on weekends, on the relevant paths there's seldomly so much traffic it requires significant regulation.) <S> If there's a street present, usually pedestrians are on the sidewalk and bikes on the street, so there's no conflict. <S> If there's a dedicated bikeway, I ring the bell from as far away as possible considering hearing conditions if pedestrians are on the bikeway, or to overtake another bike. <S> On the bikeway, the usual rules apply (drive right, overtake left), so no need to announce the passing direction. <S> Combined bike/pedestrian ways are an abomination which I don't use (biking on the street), fortunately they're largely illegal by current regulations. <S> On a path in the woods or fields, there's usually traffic in both ways, so pedestrians as well as bikes tend to keep on the(ir) <S> right side, allowing normal overtaking (giving a soft ping with the bell to notify). <S> If there's a larger group blocking the whole path, the same as for bikeways applies. <A> I post an answer but looking for other answers and will not give the check to my answer. <S> I live in Houston and the common protocol is bike left or bike right. <S> Bike left is bike passing on the left. <S> If the pedestrian does not know the protocol they will turn look to the left <S> so things can go bad. <S> If it looks like an experienced runner they probably know the protocol. <S> Pedestrians don't do a good job of staying right. <S> And if you have traffic both ways you may drop off the path and pass on the right. <S> We get some bells but they are mainly Europeans. <S> When I hear a bell I look for an ice cream truck. <S> For a couple hours a day a 1 mile loop is shut down and get some racers training. <S> It can be a problem there. <S> You will get kids learning to skate and all over the road. <S> Racers can get irritated and it is not always a polite exchange. <S> I have a pretty loud cassette <S> so on the sidewalk I just coast and let them hear me. <S> When I lived in Seattle there was more use of bells. <S> Also many more blind turns. <S> And pedestrians did a better job of staying to the right. <S> Going into a blind turn rider up. <S> Then when you pass you call out how many riders are behind you - e.g. 2 back or if none then clear back. <S> A runner will call out runner up. <S> I guess if they passed you they would call runner back <S> but I have never been passed by a runner. <A> Western Australia: <S> It is a legal requirement here to have a bell or warning device fitted. <S> This is a bit topical here at the moment following the death of a 95 year pedestrian who was hit by a cyclist. <S> There where on a shared use path. <S> No details beyond the ABC news report . <S> Andrew
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I have bells on my bikes and generally only use them when approaching pedestrians or cyclists who are either making it difficult to pass (e.g., walking wide or in the centre of the path) or who I feel may make a sudden move that could prove not so good for either of us. If it's a runner, or a slower cyclist, who's obviously sticking to the left, I just pass on the right with ample space. Bristol, UK: "Passing on your left/right" usually works, but every once in a while peds (or even cyclists) will move the wrong way. On the trails the protocol is rider up or rider back.
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Warranties on cycling clothing in the event of a crash? I recently destroyed the clasp on my pair of Fox Head Demo shorts while riding this weekend (don't worry, I'm OK). Do cycling clothing brands/companies offer any sort of warranty on their clothing for something like this? I am specifically interested in clothing intended for more extreme use like downhill where it should hold up. <Q> I don't think any manufacturer will give you any warranty in case of "abuse" of its products – and it surely could be considered abusive to have a crash with their clothing, even if it was sold as mountainbike clothing. <S> There may be some exception with protective gear, but even then the manufacturer might argue that it was designed to get damaged or destroyed in order to protect you. <S> In this case I could imagine the manufacturer might give you some discount on a replacement, as some helmet manufacturers do in case of a crashed helmet. <A> In England and Wales, under the Sale of Goods Act 1979 goods must be as described, of satisfactory quality and fit for purpose. <S> Regardless of warranty length, a product which is intended to last many years but fails after a few months of use can be deemed faulty or unfit for purpose. <S> Within the first 6 months, it is assumed that the product did not meet the contract specification when delivered. <S> After 6 months a fault may indicate the product fell short of the durability expectations. <S> The contract of sale is with the retailer, not the manufacturer, so don't let the retailer pass the buck. <S> Your local laws may have similar principles. <A> Precis of linked website: Repair Service Policy Rapha offers a free repair service where a crash or accident has damaged a garment. <S> This service also applies to garments outside the 30 day return policy. <S> Please note that repairs can take up to 4 weeks to process, once they have been received by our repairs team. <S> Excluded garments: <S> All Base Layers, T-shirts, Polo Shirts, Shirts, Merino Sweatshirts, Track/Hooded Tops, Merino Roll Necks, Merino Boxers, Merino Arm/Knee/ <S> Leg Warmers, Socks, Oversocks, Overshoes, Merino Gloves, Hats/Caps, Scarfs, Snood/Collar, Backpack Covers, Belts, Bidons, Essentials cases, Custom products and Rapha + GORE-TEX products. <A> Assos of Switzerland has a repair service, as documented at <S> https://www.assos.com/warranty-repair-policy <S> However its limited to only the first three months after purchase, to be bought from an authorised seller only, and requires receipts/proof of purchase. <S> Also its best-effort with no replacement if it can't be repaired, and excludes "lenses and inserts" but doesn't show a laundry-list of exclusions like the Rapha policy.
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But for "normal" clothing, I don't think you will have great chances on such warranty. Rapha provides a free repair service for their items that have succumb to crashes: https://www.rapha.cc/at/en/repair-service
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What can I use for a DIY cable end? I am in a pinch and need something to crimp onto the end of my brake cable to stop it fraying. There aren't any hardware shop's nearby and its a long way to the nearest bike shop. Any household object that'll do the job? Any good stop-gap until I can get a proper part? <Q> You can cut an aluminum soda can into a small strip and wrap that around and fold it like a tiny burrito into the end. <S> Crimp with pliers. <S> Picture lovingly misappropriated from http://billgrady.com/wp/2002/11/14/how-to-wrap-a-burrito/ <A> The empty ink-tube of a ballpoint pen makes good cable ends. <S> The metal ones may be squeezed into place. <S> If you have a plastic one cut off 1 cm, put over the cable end and heat with a flame. <A> I usually use an old spoke nipple. <S> Slide it over the end and crimp with an electrical (stake-on/solderless connector) crimper. <A> let it dry a little before applying. <S> It is too liquid just after mixed, so let it dry and use it like if it were modelling putty. <S> Thin cooper wire from a telephone cord. <S> Wounded it around the end of the cable. <S> It would look like a bass guitar string. <S> Solder wire applied cold, wound a couple of turns and crimp it with pliers. <S> Thin metal office supplies used for holding pieces of paper together (fasteners and similar) cut into small pieces and crimped with pliers. <S> Failed attempts were made with masking tape, electrical tape and duct tape. <S> Soldering <S> it was also a fail for me <S> , the molten solder would not adhere to the steel cable, that's why I ended just crimping it. <A> Wrap it tightly with electrical/gaffa tape? <A> The soft lead will press into the cable gaps and should create a very tight nipple. <S> I tried this at the handlebar end with not such good results, trying to jerry-rig a cable anchor: <S> although the foil layer touching the cable does swage in well, the outer layers are too brittle to hold well together. <S> It's like trying to make a sandwich out of phyllo dough, the gaps make for a crumbly product. <S> I imagine it'd be pretty easy to make a little baby crucible out of steel, stone, or something else that melts at a higher temperature than lead. <S> It would be a mold for the anchor. <S> It would include a slot where you lay the cable halfway through it. <S> Then, stuff the cavity with solder (melt it in, jam your iron in, use a torch, whatever). <S> That should make for a good DIY anchor, meaning you could buy cable in bulk and make your own cables. <A> I use normal solder - this keeps the strands together and negates the need for a cap. <S> I thread the cable and then solder where I will cut, and then trim the excess off. <S> Note this method leaves a sharpish point still. <S> The trick is preparation... <S> if you have stainless steel cables then they don't take solder too well. <S> You need to clean the end with a solvent to remove any grease, sand it or file it some to abrade the surface, use some flux liquid and a decently hot soldering iron. <S> Silver solder works better but is definitely overkill for a bike cable. <A> If you have a soldering iron and some solder, that may stop it from fraying further, but won't make it any less sharp. <S> You could consider a bit of alu foil, but I doubt this would stay on. <S> Perhaps with some glue suitable for metal? <S> Perhaps a small cable tie done up super-tight with pliers?
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Anyone with a roll of lead-based solder can hammer it out against an iron plate to make a thin foil, then wrap the cable with it, and finally "swage" it by hammering it down. I have actually used these options: Epoxy glue:
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Mountain bike tires vs. road tires - from crushed limestone to pavement I've had my mountain bike for three summers now and I love it. I bought it for the ability to ride on different terrains and build endurance. Since my primary goal is weight loss and cardiovascular health, I've found that I ride mostly on paved surfaces during typical rides. I do often ride on bike trails for long endurance rides. These trails consistently have crushed limestone surfaces, as well as pavement. I've considered purchasing road tires due to my extensive presence on pavement, but how well do road tires perform on crushed limestone and/or tightly packed gravel? Do road tires sink a little on crushed limestone, causing lots of friction? I don't want to spend the money on the conversion just to find the answer on this question. I will be riding on paved & crushed limestone/gravel during the same ride. <Q> Gravel tires are normally a little knobby: versus completely smooth for a road tire. <S> One strategy is to run a gravel or combination tire in the front and a road tire in the back. <S> Combination tires aren't great at road or off road, but they're passable on each. <S> Certainly will be an improvement if you're running big knobby tires on the road, but not as much of an improvement as if you went to complete slicks. <S> Two combo tires might be more durable than a combo/off road tire and a road tire though. <S> The main issue is that gravel is sharper than asphalt, so you'll want a bit tougher of a tire. <S> On the other hand, if you're mostly on the road, knobs are bad. <S> So you'd have to play around with it to some extent. <S> For what its worth, I currently have an old mountain bike with Geax Evolution tires on the front and back (they're combination tires). <S> If the gravel is packed enough and you're not overly zealous, they seem to work fine. <S> The rolling resistance on the road isn't bad either (though they are a bit noisy, and you'll want to play with tire pressures for gravel and road). <S> Another good option might be something like Kenda Kwick or WTB All Terrain or Specialized Burrough (all slightly more expensive and not exactly equivalent, but the idea is there). <A> Look for city or touring tires. <S> Road in bicycle means more of a racing tire. <S> A tire like this go pavement and packed nicely Travel CONTACT . <S> Almost all manufacturers will have tires like this. <S> A road type tread in the middle but a little grip on the edges for if you do sink a little. <S> Great answer from Batman (+1) <S> but I don't think the Gravel Plus is an optimal tire for the needs you state. <S> One it does not come in a 26 <S> but you did not state that in the original question. <S> The Gravel Plus is a relatively light race inspired tire. <S> I commute on cyclycross that I also ride on light trails <S> and I was buying the most roady "cyclocross" I could find and was burning through them every 6 months because they are soft light race inspired tires and not designed to be run on the street. <S> I finally figured out to look in touring / city with a bit of tread. <S> Yes a 25mm pure road tire will sink in gravel. <S> But don't get a 25mm tire. <S> Get a tire the width of your current knobby or slightly less. <S> You stated you have 26 X 2.1 now. <S> If you sink a bit now then stay at that width. <S> If you don't sink then I would drop down to 1.75. <A> You have 26" tyres currently, there are certainly "slicker" options available to you. <S> I think its quite easy to obtain tyres which go down to about 1.25" wide. <S> This is not the crazy narrow 23mm (or less) that you might typically see on a road bike (and really, these bikes can only be ridden on the road), but on tarmac/asphalt you'll certainly notice a difference if you're currently riding 2.1". <S> I think ultimately you will have to work out a trade. <S> The narrower the tyre, the better performance you'll get on the road, but the worse performance you'll get on gravel. <S> You might need to do a bit of trial and error here. <S> You seem to say that you will either ride road or gravel, but not both in a single ride. <S> One other option therefore is to keep two sets of wheels, one with narrow slicks on, the other with your current tyres. <S> Obviously this is quite a costly solution but you do win in terms of having the most "ideal" tyres on any given ride. <A> I have done quite a bit of touring on my Surly Long Haul Trucker which includes 1,000 + kilometres of dirt riding 1 . <S> On my Surly for such tours I fitted Schwalbe Marathon Mondial HS 428 47-622 tyres and prior to that for an early tour again with a fair bit of dirt roads I fitted <S> Schwalbe Marathon Cross HS 334 700Cx38. <S> Both tyres have proven to be more than adequate performers on the dirt and road. <S> They also have quite good puncture protection but on the downside they can be heavy. <S> Schwalbe do offer similar tyres in 26" so may be worth a look. <S> They also have a very handy rating system for their tyres which makes deciding that much easier. <S> 1 <S> For those interested you can read more about the tour on my blog here . <S> The photo was taken on the Carnarvon to Mullewa leg RegardsAndrew
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A combination tire is one which is nearly slick in the middle with knobs on the sides, so you might want to try one road tire on the back and one gravel tire on the front.
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What are some good films about cycling? Can you recommend high quality cycling-centric films? Can you recommend good sources (for example, publishers, distributors, vendors, etc.) to locate these films? <Q> Old but still worthwhile: Breaking Away . <A> A few of my guilty pleasures: Hard-boiled: <S> The Greatest Show On Earth ('74 Giro) <S> Death on the Mountain: The Story of Tom Simpson Soft-boiled: <S> The Flying Scotsman , Graeme Obree biopic Quicksilver <A> Because I'm a mountain bike guy, and I think the stories and shots are way more interesting (sorry roadies): <S> Life Cycles <S> Won't Back Down <S> Rad Company <A> A couple of classics for you... <S> A Sunday in Hell <S> The Stars and The Water Carriers <A> Hell on Wheels is a German movie portraying Erik Zabel and Rolf Aldag during the Tour de France 2003. <S> It gives quite some insights into cycling on that level (while it ignores doping <S> and we meanwhile know that the participants did quite some doping during that time ...) <A> Blood Sweat Gears is a documentary on Garmin Cycling Team, a good alternative to watching TdF dvds. <A> It's no Breaking away, but check out American Flyers too. <S> You've got your Kevin Costner, cycling, iconic scenes, and Russian bogeymen. <A> The Sufferfest offer motivational/training videos. <S> Also, Bromley Video in the UK has lots of DVDs, books, videos etc. <S> of all things cycling - grand tours, races, bios, documentaries, dramatisations. <S> Not particularly cheap but the best selection I've seen in a single place, also some of the DVDs are self-produced <S> so <S> I'd imagine are unavailable elsewhere. <S> I think they also have an eBay outlet, you may find some things cheaper on there. <A> Great bicycle movies <S> Top Five Cycling Films of All Time 9 Cycling Movies <S> You Can't Miss <S> 10 Best Cycling Movies <S> Ever <S> Bonus: Best Bicycle Movie Scenes <S> All bicycle movies <S> Wikipedia Bicycle Universe <S> IMDB 1 IMDB 2 <A> The Armstrong Lie <S> In 2009 director Alex Gibney set out to film The Road Back, a documentary on cyclist Lance Armstrong's comeback year after a four-year retirement from the sport. <S> Three years later, on October 2012, a doping investigation led to his lifetime ban from competition and the stripping of his seven Tour de France titles, and the documentary was shelved. <S> On January 14, 2013, three hours after his appearance on Oprah, Armstrong went back to Gibney to set the record straight about his career. <A> If you are into mountain biking at all, I highly recommend any/all of the NWD (New World Disorder) series, and also the films The Collective made. <S> NWD is pretty much straight up old school bike Pr0n. <S> Professionals on bikes doing ridiculous things to awesome music. <S> The collectives movies were a bit more artsy, but very close to the same thing; both sets were well done. <S> It's very behind the scenes and gave me a very unique perspective on what some of the riders are actually like and how to some extent "the show must go on".
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Finally I'd also like to recommend Bang Bang, which was a film that sort of revolved around Aaron Chase and the year he broke his back. Where The Trail Ends Strength in Numbers The Triplets of Belleville (originally released in UK as Belleville Rendez-vous ) And of course all the old-school freeride films like Kranked.
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Do these pads look contaminated? These are the front brake pads of my bike. Lately I've seen a decrease in stopping force and some shudder when braking at low and very low speeds. I took them apart and they look like this: Do the pads look contaminated? <Q> I agree with @Daniel R Hicks. <S> Those pads aren't terrible, but they're obviously not new either. <S> New pads are cheap, so go ahead and throw a new pair on and see if it helps. <S> It's also possible that the pads are worn enough that even when you pull the lever in all the way they fail to make good contact with the rotor. <S> Are they mechanical brakes? <S> That problem is especially common with mechanical brakes. <S> Lastly, is it possible that you got some sort of oil/fluid on your rotors? <S> That can severely lessen braking power, and it can happen with an invisibly thin film of oil. <S> If you think that is the case, clean the rotors with a non-detergent solvent like goo-gone. <S> Also, can you describe what you mean by "shuddering"? <A> Brake pad contamination is usually invisible. <S> The pad compound is porous and if oil got in your caliper / on your rotor in a big way then it has soaked into your pads. <S> A visual check around your brake caliper and rotor can reveal this. <S> If you didn't have any leakage incident or ride through something nasty, it could be another problem. <S> Your mention of shuddering makes me wonder if something is loose or worn. <A> Difficult to say from the photo. <S> Try this, give discs a good clean with alcohol and if the grip is still lacklustre then change the pads......if that doesn't work then and only then bleed. <A> I had a similar problem in the past, and I also investigated the possibility of brake pads contamination. <S> But in the end the problem was that the rotor was not tight enough. <S> If your bike is new, maybe you need to check the screws of the rotor. <S> Another possibility is that with sintered and semi-metallic pads if you use the brakes for long time continuously, it heats the pads and hardens their surfaces so you are likely to notice a reduced braking power.
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The best way to know if your pads are contaminated is to know if you rode through oil or had some sort of suspension or brake fluid leak. Still, replacing the pads is a cheap and easy check. If you feel or see oily film, contamination is likely.
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Can I use cartridge bearings on my wheel hub? I have a vintage road bike, at the moment there are loose metal bearings in the hubs. Some of the bearings are missing. Can I buy cartridge bearings or do I need to buy loose bearings? Thanks <Q> Your hubs will almost surely be classic cup-and-cone hubs, and those will need replacement bearings. <S> However, do note that the proper number of bearings for a hub is not necessarily a number that completely 'fills' the cup bearing race. <S> You might not be missing any. <S> 9 is typically common, with a little bit of space where it looks as though you could fit a 10th or 11th. <S> Check with your LBS for how many you'll need for your particular hub. <A> Generally when new there is room for about half a ball additional in the bearing race, but very quickly wear of the cup makes it look like a ball is missing. <S> And a ball bearing assembly can function reasonably well with 2-3 balls actually missing (though this will cause faster wear). <S> The usual technique, when you don't know for sure if any balls have been lost (or how many) is to go for "full minus one" -- enough balls to fill the race, then take one out. <S> The balls are cheap and any decent bike shop will have them. <S> (Take a ball or two with you for the shop to measure.) <S> If you replace any balls, though, replace all of them, since the old ones will be worn and not have exactly the same diameter. <S> (And always get 2-3 more than you need, since you'll always drop one or two and not be able to find them.) <S> I've found that normally there is an odd number of balls -- 9 or 11, eg. <S> But there's no theoretical basis for this rule. <S> To use cartridge bearings you'd have to replace the hubs, or at the very least get a machine shop to machine the hubs to accept the cartridges (thought there's likely not enough "meat" to allow this). <S> I've had cartridge hubs in the past <S> and they're not necessarily trouble-free. <S> Cartridges were "the in thing" back maybe 1985, but now you only see them in cranks (where there is room to place a cartridge with no compromises). <S> But if you want cartridge hubs, I believe Phil Woods is still the go-to company to get them (or was last I checked). <S> (And note that the cartridge hubs will not look like standard hubs.) <A> If you have a cup-and-cone hub, you need the loose bearings. <S> These are some good directions on doing the replacement. <S> See these links as well for some useful tips. <A> If you are buying new, then sealed would be a great way to go because there will be almost zero maintenance and the free roll is not comparable. <S> Loose bearings can do very well but may require periodic maintenance for normal road use and more maintenance if ridden in dirt or weather. <S> Either one depends on how you setup and mount the wheel. <S> Most people tighten hubs too tight, thus binding the bearings and that defeats the purpose. <S> If you snug up the wheel hub nut, mount the wheel and tighten the wheel nut. <S> Almost ALWAYS <S> , the hub nut will get a little extra tension on the bearing and then the bearing is in a bind and does not roll as well and can even not free roll at all. <S> YOU SHOULD snug up the hub nut and turn it back a quarter turn on one side only <S> (becsue the axle is free between these two nuts with the hub in the middle). <S> Mount the wheel and check the roll out on the wheel. <S> feel if there is any binding (or slack) on the bearings. <S> Binding will cause premature wear and you WILL have to replace them eventually. <S> This goes for sealed cartridge bearings as well! <S> If they do not roll freely or you feel binding, loosen the wheel and loosen the hub nut 1/8 turn at a time and tighten wheel again. <S> You want to have the bearing just snug but no slack! <S> That will be the sweet spot when doing either bearings. <S> If it is too loose, the you can wiggle the wheel and feel it. <S> Tighten it up just a bit same as described above but opposite direction. <S> Sealed bearings will last a lifetime of the wheel for most average riders just keep the dust and dirt off them. <S> Have fun and ride Rad! <S> Cheers, Mate
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To use cartridge bearings, the hubs must have been designed to use them (absurd kludges aside). Bearings will wear if you ride a lot.
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Clipless pedals: Why clipping in so darn difficult? I do understand that this question been asked million times, and million people have million different opinions and it's all down to personal preferences, yet I am struggling and need to find a solution that would work best for me. So there's no question - clipless pedals are better. I knew that when I was buying my bike and now I have "Look" pedals, and of course I had to learn to unclip them safely without falling. I can do that now, but clipping the cleat back into the pedal is my biggest pain. The pedal's back-side is heavier than its front, so it allways dangles upside-down and I have to keep kicking it with my toe, until it rotates back to its normal position. And even after that I usually struggle to get it clipped. And in the city it's a huge problem - sometimes, I have to roll without clipping it till a next red light. And very often that sucker ironically clips right before the light. Also the "Look" cleats are made of plastic and they definitely will deform over time, making it even harder to use. Yesterday I even thought about installing a regular pedal for one foot, but then decided it's a bad, bad idea and I don't really want that. Can you guys tell me if I should definitely try using SPD-SLs? Are they much better? Can someone who actually had experienced both systems (and maybe older SPD as well) can tell me that I would benefit from spending another hundred bucks and more? Or there's a way to train myself to clip without even having to look down and this is a newbie's problem and I will forget about it very soon, after maybe fifty thousand stops and after replacing forty pairs of cleats? Also I noticed that I prefer to unclip my left foot and stand on it, so my left cleat is going to wear off faster. Are left and right cleats are the same? Can I just keep replacing one cleat (although I noticed they always sold in pairs) And Look cleats are not compatible with SPD-SL, right? What about shoes? Would I need to buy another pair of shoes as well, if I decide to switch? UPD : Switched to SPD. And I gotta tell you, it feels significantly better. Yes, I don't care that these XT 785s are meant for mountain bikes, I don't care that they almost twice heavier than my KEOs, I don't care that KEOs were almost twice the price i.e. maybe ofbetter quality. I don't care that SPD is older technology than Look and SPD-SL After all, like Genghis Khan's adviser said once to his son: It is possible to conquer the world sitting in a saddle but impossible to rule the empire from it That said - riding a road bike is not always about speed, it's also about comfort. Maybe advocates of asymmetrical pedals would disagree, but I love my new pedals, they are awesome. Also I think now I understand why my previous pedals company called "Look" - you damn can't clip them in without looking straight at your foot <Q> This is part comment, part answer, but too long to fit in a comment, so here we go. <S> Personally, I use SPD, and when I ride with a group, everyone else has SPD-SL or LOOK. <S> I'm usually clipped in and across the intersection before they're clipped in. <S> Either I'm just really good at clipping in, or SPD are designed to be easier to get clipped in to. <S> Even the very experienced riders tend to have problems with clipping in from time to time. <S> Personally I don't know what advantage SPD-SL offers over SPD. <S> People say that the larger platform allows for better power transfer, but I don't see how that makes difference. <S> The foot pushes on the hard sole of the shoe, and sole of the shoe pushes on the pedal, which is made of rigid metal. <S> Assuming there is no flex in the pedal or the sole of the shoe, it doesn't matter how large the attachment point is. <S> Personally, I would recommend you try out a pair of SPDs. <S> Borrow some from a friend or see if the shop has a demo pair and see if that works better for you. <S> Too many shops will push you towards road pedals (either SPD-SL or LOOK) because you're riding on the road, and you will break "Rule 34" if you use mountain pedals on a road bike. <S> I think that SPD pedals are a much better solution unless you're an actual road racer and only plan to unclip at the end of the ride. <A> I use these spd's: <S> http://road.cc/content/review/43776-shimano-pd-m520-spd-pedal <S> They are double sided, so you never get the wrong side to clip in <S> They are cheap <S> They are durable <S> The shoes you buy with them usually allow (easyish) walking whenrequired <S> Can buy both road & mountain biking shoes - with a single pedal type <S> I know that's more of a "comment" answer, but <S> hope it might help. <A> So I don't think the Look pedals will help you. <S> Look at symmetrical pedals, such SpeedPlay, Crank Brothers Egg Beaters, SPDs and the Time Atac range. <S> This style of pedal is much easier to clip into because you can just mash your foot at the pedal. <S> Have a look at this answer for more discussion on the pros and cons of many pedal styles. <A> TL;DR : <S> Having a quality pedal means that it will always be in the same position when you need to clip in and will make you life much easier when starting. <S> Part of the problem might be the "cheapness" of the pedals, let me explain : I ride look and have been using Look Keo Carbon pedals, they are middle range (more expensive than the Easy and less than titanium ones). <S> I have the same "backside is more heavy" problem, but I think it's a feature. <S> You see my pedals are ALWAYS at 1 oclock top and 7 o'clock bottom, so all I have to do is get the tip of the cleat in the top "hook" and then clip right in, I'm usually clipped after 1 or 2 pedal rotation. <S> On the other hand, my friend has the cheapest look Easy pedals, in his case, the spindle if much less smooth and the pedals won't always be at the same position after unclipping. <S> So each time he starts he has to replace the pedal in the right directions like you do. <S> I'm still struggling sometime even after 4 years of riding, there's always a moment where you start too quickly and can't get in. <S> As for cleats, yes they're plastic, but they are made to be replaced regularly, they use up instead of using up the pedal material. <A> I've just bought some Look Keo Easy pedals. <S> They have no tension adjust at all, and are locked at the easiest tension. <S> The only problem I've found is that they don't hang right, so will be giving their bearings a lube and service after less than 100 km. <S> Could be they're just a bit too stiff. <S> Why road cleats on a MTB? <S> They were cheap and I already had a pair of road shoes.
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Clipping in and out takes a lot of practice, and I mean a lot. I think the key to your problem is the asymmetrical nature of SPD-SL pedals. Don't cheap out when changing cleats, change both of them even if one is less used than the other. Testing an idea is always good before committing silly amounts of money to something that may be unnecessary, or worse detrimental.
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What kind of spokes for Giant PSL0 wheelset What specific spokes do I need for Giant PSL0s wheelset . I know they are DT Swiss but what kind and maybe where to get them. <Q> Are you building this wheel yourself? <S> There's a bit of planning that goes into building a wheel. <S> As Daniel mentioned, length and gauge are important, but even before that you must have a hub that will accommodate the same number of spokes that the wheel will. <S> Afterward, the number of spokes you will need will dictate what lacing pattern you should use. <S> As always, Sheldon has the answers . <A> From the link you posted, the Giant PSL0s wheelset look like complete DT Swiss wheels, using 240S Straightpull hubs and RR 450 (click "Rims Road") hubs. <S> The DT Swiss site has a spoke calculator at the bottom of the page. <S> If you are a very experienced wheel builder then go for it. <S> If not, get a pro to do it . <S> Asymmetrical wheels are a whole new level up from "traditional" wheels, with higher tensions, and often blade spokes. <S> From my reading, Sheldon is no help here. <S> They are nice wheels. <S> Enjoy. <A> You really ought to be contacting Giant about this, even if for no other reason than to seek clarification of their web page. <S> What your link doesn't say is the length of the spokes. <S> For that, you'll either need to measure them or contact Giant. <S> Note that there will likely be 3 different spoke lengths in play - front, drive and non-drive. <S> As regards purchasing, depends how many you want to buy and how deep your pockets are. <S> These spokes will likely come out of the factory in boxes of 100 spokes. <S> If you're prepared to buy in this kind of quantity then I'm sure any DT Swiss dealer will be able to help you (assuming, of course, you know the lengths). <S> Again, the DT Swiss site will help you there. <S> However if you only want one or two spokes then this is more problematic, since most dealers aren't prepared to keep boxes of spokes lying around on the off-chance that they'll sell one or two every now and again. <S> One source I've used in the past is wheelbuilder.com , which was a very pleasant experience (Ca to UK in around 36 hours). <S> There may be other sources which are cheaper/more convenient, but these guys stock your spokes. <S> But again, you'd need to tell them what lengths you need.
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The link you posted tells you that they are DT Aero Competition bladed stainless steel, and you don't have to look far on the DT Swiss web site to find these exact spokes .
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Creaking sounds from the saddle tube? I've started to hear creaking/clicking sounds from the saddle tube. Is the frame giving up? I could look for a longer saddle post , if that would relieve some of the strain on this part of the frame, but I'm not sure what length to get. I've measured the outer diameter of the post to be approx. 27mm -- but what is the proper name/size for this dimension? It's a 58 (cm/in?) aluminum frame with 28" wheels, roughly 10 years old. I've got the saddle fairly high, but I'm a tall guy (192cm, 95kg) so it needs to be like this. When I put a heel on the lowest pedal, my leg is practically straight. Perhaps I should buy a bike with a bigger frame, if that exists, but I am hoping to avoid significant expenses. The bike is otherwise in good condition. Updates to comments: Saddle post is 1cm lower than its "max" mark. Close, but okay - perhaps too close, given my weight? (95kg) frame and post is metal, presumably both aluminum. Creaking goes away when standing. That's why I suspect this area. Saddle clamp and rails seem good on visual inspection. <Q> Often, dirt gets between the seat post and seat tube. <S> Remove the seat post. <S> Clean the post. <S> Clean inside the seat tube. <S> Grease the post and re-install. <S> Hopefully the noise will be gone. <S> You say the post is close to the max mark. <S> For a little added safety, longer seat posts are available. <A> AND/OR tightened a little bit. <S> Don't overdo it, it's best to stay within the 5-6 Nm range so as not to bust your seatpost ring or seat tube. <S> Greasing the seatpost might also help. <S> I wouldn't recommend any actual grease for this (messy, tends to get the seatpost stuck after a year of riding), powdered graphite is more appropriate. <A> As a fellow tall guy, try temporarily lowering your seat by half and see if the creaking goes away. <S> 350mm and 400mm are available now, not overly expensive. <S> Have a good close look at the frame for cracks too <S> - I broke a frame by having the seat too high. <A> Try to put tube lower enough and check how it sounds in that position. <S> If any sounds don't appear then just replace with new longer tube. <S> It saves your frame. <S> Or it might be sand or dirt cause noise. <S> So try to clean up tube and frame.
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Most probably, the seatpost just needs to be cleaned (dust gets in) If yes, your seatpost is simply too high and unsupported, so buy a longer one.
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Are there any cleats (for SPD-SL) that convert the pedal to a regular flat platform for regular shoes? I have a road bike that use Shimano 105 PD-5800 SPD-SL pedals and they are wonderful when exercising. However I would like to be able to use the bike with regular shoes for more casual use of the bike, but I also don't want to exercise unnecessary wear and tear on the pedals by not using a cleat. Are there any cleats (for SPD-SL) that convert the pedal to a regular flat platform for regular shoes? I know that this question is similar to this one but I ask for a special cleat that converts the SPD-SL pedal to a regular flat platform and not a hybrid platform. I want to keep my Shimano 105 PD-5800:s since I really enjoy them. <Q> For a ready made part, see Fly Pedals . <S> This is essentially just a metal platform, which you bolt cleats onto, then clip them into your pedals. <S> They are threaded with holes for 2-bolt or 3-bolt cleats, so should work with most mountain bike or road bike clipless pedals (including SPD-SL). <S> Note <S> these are not yet available, but you can pre-order them from the Fly Pedals website. <S> Some more details on Fly Pedals on Kickstarter - that page says delivery from end of July 2014. <A> If you don't find any factory made component, you can always get down the do-it-yourself route. <S> Here is a link to set of instructions on how to make ones for Shimano PD 520/540: <S> http://www.instructables.com/id/Pedal-platforms-for-Shimano-PD-520540/ <S> The basic idea of it is to get hold of an extra pair of cleats, affix them with appropriate bolts to a suitable small platform that somehow resembles a non cleated pedal and add some sort of anti slippage material to it. <S> If you ever have attached your shoes to your pedals while not wearing them, you'll find not difficult to install and remove such contraption from your pedals. <S> However, I have never used this type of adaptor (I've been very tempted though) <S> but I assume this is just for leisure pedalling, like a short trip to the corner store, I woluld not advise to use them for training, racing, stunts nor any type of demanding riding. <S> Since you mention loving your pedals, (wich I think means you really really like using your cleated shoes) I would advise to better carry your normal shoes and change them while you arrive to your destination. <A> Turns out this is not the correct style (question is for SL) <S> This is the Shimano part number SHIMANO SM-PD20 I have some and they are a pain. <S> The are hard to insert and remove <S> and you have to spin the pedal to get the correct side up. <S> I would rather swap out pedals. <S> This is a reflector but not sure if it is meant to step on reflector insert <A> I know this is a really old question. <S> But in case anybody stumbles upon this while trying to figure out the answer, as I did, I did find these: http://www.bikedabs.com/
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A small saddlebag, a stylized handlebar bag, or even a small backpack is a convenient solution to carry both your normal shoes while riding, and your cleated shoes while walking.
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Reducing Bulk on a touring trip I'm doing a self contained touring trip, I have a 5 piece set of ortlieb bags (handlebars, 2 front rollers, 2 back rollers). I also plan on putting my tent on my back rack. I'm not doing this in a competitive manner. I'm just looking to have some fun on a 2 week tour. Recently, in another thread, I became aware that "bulk" can be more of a concern than weight. I'm wondering a few things, What exactly is bulk? Are we just talking aerodynamics? How would one go about reducing bulk when using panniers? Any tips for reducing bulk in general? How important would you rank bulk compared to weight, comfort, etc. (given my parameters of prioritizing fun over serious competition) <Q> 'Bulk' is mostly about whether all of your luggage will fit in your bags. <S> ie is the volume of your luggage less than the capacity of your bags. <S> So it depends on how much stuff you want to take, and how big your panniers are. <S> Aerodynamics doesn't really matter for touring. <S> Unless you are cycling rather fast, or it is very windy. <S> Usually the weight of your bike and luggage will make more difference to your speed and effort required. <S> For reducing bulk, the main thing is taking less stuff. <S> eg if clothes are folded properly, they will be less bulky. <S> Some things can be squashed smaller, eg sleeping bags. <S> Compression bags can help with this. <S> It is worth leaving some spare space in your bags. <S> You may want to buy things along the way. <S> eg food supplies can be surprisingly bulky. <S> Or any essential gear you find is missing, or any souvenirs you want to take home. <S> Also after packing and unpacking a few times, you will probably find things don't fit as neatly, so end up taking more space. <S> Its up to you <S> how you much you want to carry. <S> Carrying lots of stuff will slow you down a bit while cycling, so you won't cover as much distance. <S> And it may affect the handling of the bike, so its not as fun to ride. <S> On the other hand, it is nice to be comfortable while camping, and have all of the kit you might want. <A> Here is another take on "bulk". <S> At the time I completed the tour this photo was taken on I was using a home made quilt as my sleeping "bag". <S> The quilt is the item in the blue/gray Sea to Summit dry bag sitting on top of the Extrawheel Voyager trailer. <S> Now the quilt is not that heavy <S> but it is clearly quite bulky taking up a lot of space, so much space that I didn't carry it in my panniers as it would take up way to much room. <S> I have since replaced that home made quilt with a Mont Bell Ultralight Super Spiral Down Hugger #3 which weighs 686 grams and takes up considerably less space, so much less in fact that it nows lives in one of my rear panniers when touring. <A> To answer question 3: Any tips for reducing bulk in general? <S> Here are some tips on reducing clothing bulk. <S> When doing a long tour I swapped out cotton t-shirts for dri-fit/climacool-type ones. <S> They pack smaller, dry quicker when laundered and can be used on and off the bike. <S> Three t-shirts like this should be enough for both riding and non-riding activities. <S> I also had a pair of zip off cycling trousers. <S> They can be used as long trousers or shorts. <S> These plus one or two pairs of padded, mountain-bike type shorts should be enough. <S> For shoes I had a pair of Shimano touring SPDs. <S> They were comfortable enough to walk in and the cleats were not as pronounced as road shoes. <S> All the clothing I carried was cycling stuff that was passable in non-cycling situations. <S> I didn't have any non-cycling clothes with me. <S> By carrying fewer items that dried quickly <S> I was able to hand wash them at the end of the day's ride and have them dry quickly.
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It also depends on how you pack it.
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Brake Cable Ends - Barrel and Pear Nipples I can easily find images of these different nipples on Google, and as far as I can tell pear nipples are used on road bikes (in general) and barrel nipples are used on MTBs (in general). Barrel Nipple Pear Nipple I'd like to understand more about them. Why have two designs evolved? Does one (for a given type of bike (or brake?)) offer advantages over the other? Or, is it all just "marketing"? Lastly, are there any other designs in common use? Thanks. <Q> Road bike brakes have had the interior rotating barrel for a very long time. <S> If the wire end does not rotate, the brake wire will be flexed in a "coat hanger" way and break in a relatively short time. <S> They are two different solutions to the same engineering problem. <A> With many bicycle components, different manufacturers create their own standards purely to ensnare customers. <S> Personally I just find it an unnecessary annoyance... <S> you can't really say one is used for road bikes and the other for MTBs... <S> the bar end levers on my road bikes take "MTB"-style barrel nipples. <S> Plus I have an older MTB with V-brakes that's fitted with crosstop levers - <S> those take pear nipples. <S> It's just a chore having to double-check before you go and buy new cables. <S> Both kinds are trivial to install, and work just as well as each other once on the bike. <S> Although one style may be more prone to mechanical failure than the other, I am sure that the points of failure for both are far beyond the serviceable life of the cable (i.e. it will have stretched, frayed, and rusted considerably by the time the nipple breaks off). <S> Thankfully I've never seen a third kind. <A> It is the design of components that determine which cable end is used. <S> For somethings change comes slowly. <S> That has become the standard. <S> It would most likely work on a mountain lever that was designed to accept that style end. <S> To my knowledge no one makes them. <S> It is similar to the presta , Schrader issue. <S> Presta valves were designed to allow rims that were thinner than was possible with a larger Schrader valve. <S> While some mountain bikes are equipped with Presta valves but most mountain bikes still come with Schrader valves.
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Original MTB brake lever designs did not include a rotating barrel inside the leverto account for the change in angle as you apply the brake, so the wire end needed to be round to accommodate this. All of the vintage brake levers I have seen use pear nipples, so I assume the barrel nipple came later, but I have no idea which manufacturer first designed a barrel-style lever. As far as I have been able to tell, there is no difference in terms of functionality or practicality. My guess is that at some point in time someone wanted a lighter more compact cable end and designed what is currently called a road style end.
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