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How can I tell if I have properly patched a tube? (specifically a 2" mt. bike tube) I normally swap out a the tube on the trail if I get a flat and then patch at home. So that leaves me with a patched tube ready to put in a tire and I'd like to test it without having to swap out a tube ('cause I'm lazy :). I thought that perhaps I could just inflate it but I'm concerned that without the opposing pressure of the tire it might blow an otherwise solid patch. <Q> I do like you do when riding, and I usually save up my tubes with holes and patch a bunch of them all at once. <S> That way I can use a tub of water to both find the holes, and can go back through them after patching and test to see if they are holding air. <S> If I have any doubt after patching a tube, I give it a little time to cure <S> and then I pump it up and hang it from a hook in my garage overnight to see if it loses air. <A> You should inflate the tube to 1.5 to 2 times the "normal" diameter, in order to develop a modicum of pressure. <S> (Wait until after the patch has "cured" overnight to do this, however.) <S> Then either test in a tub/sink or let it sit overnight again to see if it loses air. <S> (Getting the tube to fold up nicely is not a problem, if it's a Presta. <S> Just squeegee out all the air, close the valve, then lay it flat and fold it up. <S> Schrader is harder -- best is to remove the valve core temporarily while getting the air out.) <A> You have the right idea. <S> Inflate the tube to roughly the side it is in the tyre, which will be a much lower pressure than it would be if it was in a tyre. <S> My floor pump doesn't register the pressure of a tube pumped up like this, so I expect it's less than 10psi/1 bar. <A> A properly applied patch should resist inflating the tube up to 1.5-2 times the nominal diameter. <S> This is useful for testing the quality of the patching work but also to find the tiniest holes that sometimes are harder to spot. <S> As other say, the definitive way to test is to inflate and submerge in water or to inflate and let overnight to see if it holds. <S> Tubes may suffer from chemical reactions which makes them prone to develop spontaneous pores. <S> When such moment arrives it is best to buy a new tube (one that has not been in the shelves for too long). <S> Some other ways to spot a chemically damaged or degraded tube is that when inflating them outside the tire, they have irregular shape (thicker in one parts than other) or the valve spins towards the outside. <S> Other may show cracked or rough spots (or other odd texture). <S> Another symptom may be the tube looks "too black" (a normal tube is actually dark gray) and they feel sticky. <A> My experience is that you can't fully test a patch until you take it up to full pressure. <S> I had a patch that was fine for months at low pressure on the bike. <S> I took the 2.10 up to full pressure to ride on the road and the patch failed. <S> Even if you put it on the bike to test the problem is getting the fresh tube you used back in the seat bag. <S> I only use patched tubes for repair at home.
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However: I you get these tiny punctures and specially if they develop on the inner side of the tube (or "high" on the face sides), then the problem may be a faulty or degraded tube.
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How do I get my hydraulic disc brakes working well again I just bought a new bike (my first brand new one ever) a few months ago and a while ago I decided to give it a wash and after that my front hydraulic brake hasn't been working as strong as it used too. I used to be able to lock it up on gravel with two fingers, now I can't get them to lock up at all even with all my strength. (This is my bike) http://www.trekbikes.com/au/en/bikes/mountain/sport/3_series/3900_disc/ <Q> Most likely cause if the disc and pads are contaminated. <S> What did you wash it with? <S> Many cleaners leave a residue. <S> Worst case the pads need replacing. <S> Best case is a good clean of the discs solves the problem. <S> If this does not work, remove the pads and clean with cleaner and re install and clean disk again. <S> If this does not work there are tricks with pads such as burning, sanding etc that might help - I won't cover how to do it here as its well covered elsewhere. <S> How far you go <S> trying to restore contaminated pads is more a matter of how much time and effort is needed vs cost. <S> Eventually (and quite early for me) patience runs out and as new pads are the guaranteed fix, its down to the LBS I go. <A> From your link, your bike has Tekro HDC Hydraulic brakes. <S> I suggest you watch this video. <S> If you understand it, and feel comfortable doing what it suggests, take the pads out and examine them. <S> Don't buy any replacements just yet - fingers crossed, simply taking the pads out and putting them back in might solve your problem. <S> Also read up on the pistons, try to get an idea how they actually cause the brake to work, and satisfy yourself that all is well. <S> If you're not comfortable with any or all of this, take the bike to your local shop. <S> My first encounter with hydraulic brakes, I ummed and erred for ages because it was something new to me, when I finally found the courage it was quite a straightforward job - I did it in front of the laptop watching one of these vids, pausing it frequently so as lot to let them get too far ahead. <A> I'd suggest cleaning the rotors with acetone (nail polish remover). <S> Not the colored kind with fragrance and other things in it but pure, clear acetone. <S> It's a bit more aggressive than isopropyl alcohol or ethanol and has worked better and faster in my own cleaning efforts. <S> It's also cheap. <S> While you're at it, I'd remove the brake pads, clean them as well, and then use a fine sandpaper to rough up the surface of the pads <S> (scrape perpendicular to the direction of the rotor movement) and expose a new layer that is (hopefully) free of contamination. <S> If that doesn't do anything, I'd bleed any air that is in the hydraulic system.
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The discs should be well cleaned before installing new pads - Use a solvent such as brake cleaner, methylated spirits or Isoprop alcohol, and rub the discs to be certain no contamination is left on them. If you do a google search, there is a video (made by Tekro by the looks of things) which talks about how to replace pads on these brakes. Air can compress and thus weaken the hydraulic force transferred to the calipers, whereas the mineral oil or other hydraulic fluid you're using is not compressible.
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Is it ok for the trunk bike rack to rest against the glass of a hatchback? I feel like this is one of those obvious questions, but I have been unsuccessful at finding an answer (even in the manual for the rack!). I just purchased a bike rack (only holds 2 bikes) for my Subaru hatchback. I have found that I can mount the rack such that it doesn't press against the glass of the back windshield, but mounting it so low requires that I remove the front wheel of my bike (at least to make me comfortable, it probably would be fine). Can I instead mount it so that the rack presses against the back windshield? Is this likely or possible to break the back windshield? Note that my back windshield is not cracked, though the car is 10+ years old. EDIT: The bike rack, which is a Thule Thruway Pro 2, uses two foam-padded bars as the main contact points between the rack and the car. I figure that this question is probably valid for any bike rack with padded bars as the contact points, not just Thule bike racks. <Q> Being both a hatchback owner and a trunk rack owner, I can tell you yes... <S> and no. <S> I've got <S> a Saris Bones 3 rack and the feet have etched the window slightly. <S> While the feet are of a more rubbery plastic, I think it's when there's dirt and grit underneath and moves <S> (even unnoticeable movement) <S> it grinds at the window. <S> It usually cleans up pretty well, but I can tell where the feet marks are. <S> I would recommend putting a sock or other cloth over the feet (the body ones wouldn't hurt either). <S> Lastly, I've never had an issue with the rack slipping or moving, but most of the weight (even on your type of rack) will be going to the lower feet or bars. <A> I purchased a trunk mounted Thule bike rack for my Lexus back in May. Yesterday while driving the back glass exploded! <S> After opening the trunk it was obvious the pressure from the metal clips which were touching the glass caused the glass to break. <S> According to the guy who replaced the glass, the window tinting film was the reason the glass didn't shatter into the car! <S> I hope this never happens to anyone and now I don't know how to get my bike around! <A> I highly recommend that you put a piece of wide Duct Tape on the CLEAN glass where the bike rack rubber/suction cups will contact. <S> This prevents dirt from getting under the rubber/suction cups and scratching the glass. <S> I only failed to do that once, and from that point, never failed to do it again. <A> This instruction shows it on a window. <S> THRUWAY <S> And I would not assume that any rack with padded bars contact points mounts the same.
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Also, make sure the contact point is clean, which means lossening or removing the rack to clean behind it.
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Rear hub for randonneuring - any "classic" model? I have recently had a failure in my rear-hub during a brevet. The bike I use for brevets was assembled from used parts, and I tried to choose components that are dedicated to randonneuring (super-reliable, not too heavy, low maintenance and, if possible, not super expensive). At front, I am already using a Schmidt SON generator, being very satisfied. I bought it because almost EVERY text about randonneuring over the internet mentions it, and it has been a very good choice so far. The hub I was using at the rear is an American Classic, and it had the rather typical failure of "not engaging anymore" because of its hair-shaped spring not activating the engagement plate. That has happened to some acquaintances before, and I thought it wouldn't happen to me (wrong!) during an event (WRONG!). So it's light and fast but I cannot think it's reliable anymore. I do not plan to use internally geared hubs, but these seem to be the only hyped rear hubs around. There are hyped fenders, tires, racks, bags, saddles... But no rear hubs that I know. Even less only the rear hub (I am not interested in buying a pair, or nagging some shop owner to sell me just the rear one from a pair). So the question is: Is there any famous model of rear hub indicated specifically for randonneuring or fast touring? EDIT: 130mm axles are a possibility, since my bicicle has this spacing, and I actually opened the frame a bit to use the former American Classic. <Q> super-reliable <S> not too heavy low maintenance <S> not super expensive <S> Any Shimano XT hub M76X - M77X. Also confider the newer T7XX "touring XT" models. <S> Shimano hubs are exclusively (afaik) loose-bearing rather than cartridge hubs, so they're easily serviceable and the balls are available almost everywhere. <S> The XT range should also have decent seals, durable materials and not be too heavy. <S> XT hubs don't get hyped because everyone already knows about them . <A> You're not typically carrying heavy loads while randonneuring, any quality, road hub should work. <S> I think an MTB hub is overkill. <S> I have thousands of brevet and randonnee miles on Shimano Ultegra, Cycle Ops Power Tap, and Schmidt SON hubs, and have yet to have a problem. <S> You didn't mention if you're planning to build the hub into the old rim, or get a new wheel, of what type of drivetrain you have. <S> Those factors might also influence your choice. <A>
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I randonneur extensively (on a touringy Kona Jake with a saddlebag) and have found Novatec hubs with sealed industrial bearing to be very cost effective, offering tens of thousands of kilometers with virtually no maintenance and no degradation of performance to speak of. I've used American Classic hubs for MTB race wheels, but I probably would not choose American Classic for randonneuring.
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Annual technology gap of high end road bikes Somewhat general question. Could someone give me an idea of how much of a 'technology gap' there is between annual models of high-end road bikes (~$2000)? Specifically: Which components generally see the biggest improvement each year? In what sense is carbon fibre technology improving? What does this mean for your average non-pro (but enthusiastic) rider? Some sort of guestimation of when we can expect to see electrical gears on high-level road bikes as standard. Do like models necessarily improve every year? <Q> While not disagreeing with the first answer above I think there are a few more complexities that haven't been addressed. <S> Component improvements don't happen each year but rather every 3-4 years. <S> Aside from pro and sponsored riders most riders would not see any value in replacing a bike for the next years model and the industry recognises this. <S> Better to sell a new frame together with other new tech as it's released <S> so people actually are getting something new. <S> Di2 was first used in the Tour in 2009 and it became commercially available in the same year. <S> In 2011 it was released on Ultegra, which marked the first trickle down. <S> In the last 3 years it has still not been released on 105. <S> Until they are released in 105 it won't be available on mid range bikes and they will sit in the $2,000-$3,000 price range. <S> That change should be due in the next year or two, unless for other commercial reasons Shimano sweat the Ultegra Di2 line and the new 11 speed 105 line for a few more years. <S> 1 year after releasing 11 speed 6800 they released the 6870 Di2 version for Ultegra. <S> They released 105 5800 in 2014. <S> It's worth noting that in electronic shifting they have no real competition from SRAM or Campi's EPS (as opposed to mtb where after Shimano released shadow+ SRAM <S> quickly followed and released type 2 and then 1x11) so will continue to milk their mid range Ultegra until they see sales of that dwindling. <S> Electric gears will never be standard because there is a cost/ weight/ <S> don't care ratio to consider. <A> Pretty broad <S> but it has not been shut down <S> Components High end road bikes are marketed to racers. <S> UCI and other racing organizations have rules on what can and cannot be on a bike. <S> Biggest changes will come from rule changes. <S> UCI allows electronic gears. <S> There is currently a minimum weight for road races and pro level bikes get under this limit so there is not much incentive to reduce the weight. <S> Currently disc brakes are not allowed in UCI road races. <S> You still find some road bikes with disc <S> (e.g. the Specialized Roubaix has some models with disc, Salsa Colossal 2, and the Colnago CX Zero Disc). <S> UCI does currently allow disc brakes on cyclocoss and that is why you find them more standard on clyclocross. <S> If you look at the few road bikes not marketed to race you will find more incremental changes year to year. <S> I am surprised there are not more road bikes that are designed for the non-racer. <S> Cabon fiber Carbon fiber has not changed much. <S> They are getting better at forming it. <S> For the average rider it is a lighter bike with a nice ride. <S> Some people would say a more fragile bike. <S> Electric gears standard When the price comes down to make it economical on a $2000 bike. <S> Given the electric gears alone are in the $2000 range it is not going to be standard on a $2000 bike any time soon. <S> Do models improve each year Come on, clearly there are years in which nothing changes on some models but the color. <A> I like @DWGKNZ's answer, especially where he's saying about things tending to move forward in big bangs, rather than some gradual linear progression. <S> You will of course find small-scale enhancements year-on-year, but these would not be big enough to convince you to get a new bike, say. <S> I just wanted to add something about hydraulic brakes. <S> But also I'd say your description of a $2000 bike as "high-end" is not quite there. <S> My definition of high-end would be more like $10-15k or so. <S> Or, putting money to one side, I'd define "high-end" simply as the bikes the teams use. <S> Innovations, without doubt, will appear on higher-end bikes first. <S> You'll have already read that the last big bang, electronic shifting, appeared in the Tour de France in 2009. <S> But you still won't find electronic shifting on most road bikes. <S> This is simply because it hasn't been made cheap enough yet. <S> So if you really are looking at a $2k bike, you're still waiting for this development to trickle down. <S> Nobody has mentioned brakes yet, but hydraulic brakes will be the next big bang for road bikes. <S> A very few road bikes have this right now, but once the UCI approve them for competition use (apparently pretty imminent), the floodgates will open. <S> And hydraulic brakes will trickle down more quickly that electronic shifting, simply because the technical issues with hydraulics have already been cracked in the mtb world. <S> Now, you can judge for yourself how much of a technical advancement electronic shifting or hydraulic brakes will be to you. <S> But certainly the marketing people need to use things like this to try to convince us all that the bike we bought two or three years ago is actually no good, and we need to shell out once again. <S> There is a lot of this hype goes on in the cycling world - at the most cynical <S> it's change for change's sake - <S> and I think recognising the things worth shelling out for becomes a judgement call.
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Changes in bike technology are not linear but rather generational. There's a point where most people won't be willing to pay (or maintain) an electric shifting system.
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Damaged (scraped) tire - what to do? First of all, I am either inexperienced or very lucky because I have never had a flat bike tire in my life. Now comes the question. I have a basic "Specialized Sirrus 2013" hybrid bike which has run 2500 kilometers (over 1500 miles) in various conditions. The tires are "Specialized Nimbus 700x28c". Today I accidentally noticed that the rear tire is indeed damaged: I have no idea how long it has been like this or what is the cause (maybe a very sharp rock?). The cut/scrape is about 1 millimeter wide, 6-7 millimeter long and 3-4 millimeter deep (0.04x0.25x0.15 inches). It is clean of substantial debris but stays open like that when normally inflated at 115 Psi. What actions should I take? The tire is not flat and I am able to ride normally but should I be concerned? <Q> It does not look to me like the cords are damaged, which means the tire will still have its strength to hold the air pressure of the tube. <S> You have three easy options. <S> Personally I would take the last: <S> Ignore it. <S> It will probably last until the tire has no tread left. <S> The cut itself will bulge a little, so this will be the point of failure of the tire. <S> The bump may cause the tire to make noise of vibration as you ride- <S> If you notice this the tire has little life left, or may quietly wear down till with the rest of the tire. <S> Put a sleeve in. <S> Get a piece of tough material like canvas (the side wall of an old MTB tire is great), insert it under the cut. <S> This will provide a stronger area around the cut and prevent the weakness causing further problems and extend the life a little more as it will reduce the size of the bulge caused by the cut. <S> Its a technique used as a temporary repair for tires to get you home, and works for tires with significant cuts (I have seen it used successfully on a MTB ride for a tire with a 2-3cm full thickness cut.) <S> Replace the tire. <S> A shredded tire on the road is really a pain. <S> Unlike a puncture, which is generally repairable, the only fix is a new tire - do you carry a spare tire? <S> Although I always carry a tube and repair kit, I only carry a spare tire for very long rides (and usually just one in our group will carry a spare). <S> If I have a spare tire in good nick, why would I leave a dodgy tire on the bike? <A> Pull the tire. <S> Don't just clear it of substantial debris - clear it of all debris. <S> If there is something in there it will work though the cords. <S> If you are into the cord then still do not give up as that is a decent tire. <S> From the inside if you can see damage to the cord then time to get a new tire. <S> While you have it off pull the front and rotate. <S> Front tire takes less abuse and less weight. <S> If I have the rear tire off, it is more worn than the front, and run same tires front and rear <S> then I rotate. <S> Another opinion is to put the best tire in front. <S> SheldonTireRotation <S> For me I get a new tire and save that as an emergency spare. <S> Don't do an insert - <S> that is just what you do to get home. <S> It will shift and wear out a tube in no time at all. <A> You don't need to be too worried about it. <S> From my own preference in the past, if the tire plies are not exposed, tires with mere surface damages can still last a very long time. <S> Rubber is sturdier than what most people think. <S> I ride a CX on MTB trails and get tires scuffed all the time. <A> It might be possible to limp along like this a while longer, using a liner or such (I've used a dollar bill in a pinch for that), but <S> what can happen is eventually the tube will poke through the tire and when that happens it wears quickly or pinches and "pop" you'll have a flat tire. <S> I had that happen to my mt bike's tire when I was trying to get a few more miles out of a worn tire, but not a problem b <S> /c <S> I only use that mt bike on dirt trails, going slow up steep up hills, and always go very slow downhill. <S> So it was at most an inconvenience. <S> But if you were say to be riding on a paved road at 40 mph and the tire popped, well, then it might be more than an inconvenience. <S> Buy a replacement tire.
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It looks to me from the condition of the tread like you'll be replacing the tire pretty soon in any event. As we all know, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works. Especially if you are not doing anything intense (I assume because you ride a hybrid), this should not be a serious safety issue.
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2,600km on an 8 speed bike? I am about to go off on a 2,600km tour from Austia through Italy, finish in Malta. I originally planned to do this solo trip on my Giant Trance x2 full suspension but decided not to since it is too high maintenance. So after a lot of searching (budget being the greatest restriction), I have chosen a Bianchi Hybrid camaleonte http://www.evanscycles.com/products/bianchi/camaleonte-iii-alfine-2009-hybrid-bike-ec019250 . Now I'm confused, since it only seems to have 8 gears! What are your thoughts on the bike? Would you recommend adding on new chain rings if it is possible? Thanks How many km per day are planning? 200km Are you going to ride over the passes? Yes What gear are you going to carry? Tent, clothes and cooking stuff Will you have other riders with you? no What level of riding and touring experience do you have? I've done 2,000 km in 9 days on a high-end mtb ...and it only has one chain ring, os it is a 1x8 setup..in the mountains :S Should I look at another bike? It is looking like it! Or is it easy to add 2 other chain rings to the bike? ThanksIan <Q> The problem won't be the number of gears. <S> Even 3 could be enough - if they were the right ones <S> and you don't mind being slower. <S> More important is the range, the difference between the lowest and the highest gear. <S> But its lower than the range of an Alfine 11 speed, a Rohloff hub or a common mtb setup. <S> I use an Alfine 8 speed on my commuter. <S> I only really use gears 4 to 8. 4 or 5 are perfect to start from traffic lights, 8 is perfect on a slight descent. <S> The cog can be replaced to shift the gears in one direction (I plan to install a smaller one to get the used gears more to the middle, leaving the highest gear for faster descents or tail winds). <S> That is not however something you can easily do on the road. <S> Whether the gear range fits your needs can be simulated with your other bike. <S> Plug in the values of your Trance (wheel size, cassette sizes, ...) and find the ratios that correspond to the gears on the Bianchi <S> (I think my Alfine came with a 20 teeth cog ... might be 22). <S> Then try if those gears are right for what you expect on your trip. <A> For what it's worth I have toured on an Alfine 11 speed through some hilly areas across Norway. <S> The lowest ratio is identical between the 8 and 11, the 11 only gets a few extra gears on the high end and slightly smaller jumps between gears. <S> When I toured with it my final ratio between the chain ring and cog was 1.8:1, which is slightly lower than Shimano's recommendation and may have contributed to an earlier demise. <S> I rode with four panniers, full gear and mainly on dirt roads. <S> Under load I think there is is more inefficiency in the internal hub than a well kept chain drive. <S> On short rides it is not too noticeable, but if you are trying to clear 200 km a day you will notice the difference. <S> I was trying to clear the same distance and figure I was losing a hour a day due the the efficiency differences. <S> In short it should be doable, but not ideal. <A> I don't have experience running 2600 km tours but have ridden 800 km and similar long rides. <S> On a 8-speed bicycle, by the way. <S> If the bicycle has only single chainring at the front I would recommend to take a bike with two or even three chainrings on the front for long climbs which are definitely present in Italy and Austria, otherwise the first serious climb (some 1000 meters above the sea, 7~9%) will destroy you. <S> There's nothing particularly wrong with both of them, but Bianchi recently got reputation of "not so reliable" bicycle maker and a decent steel (Cr-Mo) frame will be more sturdy and cheaper. <S> Even used one is fine, since Cr-Mo runs quite long time without issues. <S> Second thing which concerns me is the "non-traditional" shifter. <S> You won't get it back working if something happens. <S> So, I would suggest to look for this balance - lightness vs sturdiness.s <A> For such a trip I strongly recommend a purpose built touring bike. <S> Because of the loads you'll carry and the climbs, it must have some quite low gears. <S> Most people would need to able to stay seated on 5-7% grades with the bike fully loaded. <S> Some of the passes have sections of over 10%, so the lower gears will definitely help there. <S> Plenty of people use internal gear hubs for touring, sometimes with extra chain rings, so go your own way there. <S> Just make sure you've got those low gears. <S> The bike should have drop bars to give you more variety in your riding position, and it should have relaxed geometry, so that it's nice and stable under the load. <S> For just one tour, I don't think it matters whether the frame is steel or aluminium. <S> What matters more IMO is that you get a week or two of riding the bike you'll take for your body acclimatise to it's particular fit. <S> Two well-fitted bikes still feel different and under load and long kms a new bike can cause aches, pains, and even injuries. <S> So ride it before you go, starting with short rides and increasing to 100km. <S> The hardest thing to advise on is distance per day. <S> On the one hand, planning to average 200km per day sounds huge. <S> On the other hand you say you've done those distances before on a MTB. <S> Are you as fit as you were then? <S> In that part of the world I would carry spare tubes, a puncture repair kit, and a few tools. <S> But not too much; you are never far from assistance. <S> Sounds like a great adventure! <S> Enjoy :-)
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What is good about this bicycle - it is light, which is important in long rides. There exist some gear ratio calculators online, most of them include the common internal gear hubs. Overall I found it to be passable, but not ideal and really requires a strong rider. The range of the Alfine 8 speed hub is higher than what you would get of a traditional chain derailleur with only 8 gears (1 front, 8 rear). Regarding this particular bicycle I would avoid Bianchi and avoid aluminium frames. Most serious cyclists would be happy with 100-150km per day, or less as we get older. So the strongest advise I would give is to plan conservatively, be flexible, and plan some rest days.
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Difficulty inflating my bike tire When trying to inflate my bike tire, I pump maybe 5 times then it gets difficult for me to pump because the handle is hard to pump? <Q> Does your bike have Schrader valves (the kind you see on a car) or Presta valves (skinnier, with a kind of pointy top)? <S> If it has Presta valves, make sure the top of the valve is unscrewed. <S> There's a little nut that you can thread up, and you need to do that before you can put air in to the tire. <S> Also, try wiggling the pump nozzle around on the valve while you push down on the pump handle, you should be able to hear the change as air starts going in to the tire. <S> Image of a closed Presta valve: <S> Image of an open Presta valve: <S> Image of a Schrader valve: <A> Pressure is the ratio of force to the area over which that force is distributed, so if you want to use less force, solution may be a double-handle pump with a thinner cylinder. <S> Pump with a large diameter cylinder can pump air faster but needs more force. <S> Pump with a smaller diameter cylinder will deliver less air with a single stroke, but requires less force to pump, which may be what you need when you inflate high pressure tire. <A> I've had that happen with schrader valves when I don't get the fitting on the valve stem all the way. <S> There's a little pin that has to be pressed down in order for air to get into the tire, and if it isn't pressed down enough, it won't allow any air in no matter how much you pump. <S> Make sure you press hard enough to fully seat the pump fitting onto the valve. <S> If that doesn't help, your tire valve could be stuck closed, or the pump fitting (the thing you press over the tire valve) might be broken. <A> Inside the pump that attaches to the stem is a micro bolt with a vertical line. <S> When you attach the pump and pull the lever up to lock the pump to the stem, that little bolt turns and locks the stem to the pump. <S> Most often I have been in such a hurry that I jam the pump to the stem and pull the lever, not locking the stem, and of course after 60 psi or so it pops off. <S> The trick is to make sure that vertical line on the stem of the air valve, is exactly lined up with vertical line in air pump connection. <S> When you pull the lever up very gently you will feel it lock in place. <A> Here is the answer for Dunlop valves <S> (= Woods valve, = english valve) . <S> This kind of valve is actuated by pressure only . <S> And the modern form uses a small steel ball that is pressed into a rubber ring by the pressure in the tire. <S> The trouble is, that the ball gets quite comfortable within that ring, and it will take some force to push it back out. <S> Force that must be applied in addition to the force needed to overcome the pressure in the tube . <S> The effect is, that when you want to pump a tire that's currently at 2 bar, you may need to apply a whopping 5 bars pressure from the pump, just to open the valve. <S> You will feel/hear when the ball comes free (because that's when the content of your pump tube suddenly rushes into the tire). <S> After that, pumping is easy and straight forward, but you must deliver this one first pressure peak first. <S> If you already have 5 bar within your tire, it may be plain impossible to free the valve. <S> I had that several times. <S> I actually unscrewed the valve in these cases to deflate the tire entirely, then screwed it back tight, and only then was I able to blow the valve free with my pump. <S> Ps: I'm switching to Schrader valves now, they don't have this issue. <A> Air is not going in valve. <S> If Presta valve, the nut on top must be loosened. <S> Then tap the end with your finger. <S> You'll hear a little air escape. <S> Connect the pump chuck and inflate. <S> If a Scrader valve (like a car tire valve), the chuck probably is not pressed on far enough. <A> Even after years this was helpful. <S> I stuck a screw driver into the valve to let some air out. <S> That loosened up the valve enough for the pump to engage. <S> If you are trying to find out what is wrong with the pump, don't forget to check whether the problem is with the valve instead.
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It sounds like your pump is not on the valve properly, so instead of inflating the tire you're just pressurizing the inside of your pump.
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How to fix V-brakes Somehow the little black rubber thing that goes with the brake got folded over the silver round clip... I tried various tools (After my fingers etc hadn't proved useful) in trying to drag it back but it proved seemingly infeasible. So I cut the black thing, then tried to brake and it clicks as though this thing is needed for the brake to clip in. What have I done wrong? <Q> There should only be a small gap in the top, just wide enough for the cable to go through. <S> If there is a larger gap, you can try squeezing it either with your fingers or pliers to make the gap smaller. <S> I've fixed brakes this way before. <S> I think if you have to do this too often, then the noodle holder might break from excessive bending, but if you only have to do it once, it should probably be safe. <S> See the image below for terms you may not understand. <A> Cutting it off will not have caused any problems with the brake. <S> Is the noodle (The tube the cable goes though) sitting correctly in the hole on the brake caliper? <A> When you release the brake the noodle is probably sliding back a bit because you don't have the rubber boot to hold it in place. <S> So then there is a gap <S> and it clicks when you apply the brake again. <S> Does the noodle slide back when you release the brake? <S> You might be able to fix it by lubing the cable/noodle. <S> I suspect you can go to a bike shop and get a new boot - <S> that is what I would do. <S> Or you might be able to use a tie strap or O ring to hold it in place.
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If the "noodle" doesn't clip in right and seems like it is sliding through the "noodle holder" when you apply the brakes, then you might have messed up the noodle holder when messing about with the boot. The 'black thing' is just a boot to keep dust and dirt out.
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Carrying Pizza on a Bicycle I have a rear rack. However, I don't really have a good way to carry pizza. Cables? Any big enough bags? I can avoid leaning too much, I'll slow on the turns if I have to.. Edit : Delivery? Not in this town. I just want a pizza... <Q> This are/were used by ramen delivery bicylists in Japan, although they are getting rarer (people don't order delivery ramen noodles like they used to) and mostly on motorcycles now: With one of these babies, your pizza (or ramen) will not sway from side to side, bump around, and end up all mashed into one big congealed mess. <S> Of course, it costs around $400 and you can only get it in Japan. <S> But if you're serious about your pizza carrying, it's the only way to go. <A> I normally just bungee cord in pizzas to my rear rack and go slowly over bumps and don't corner aggressively. <S> Works fine for one pie. <S> You could attach some plywood or something to the rack to provide a platform if you want it. <S> For multiple pies though (delivery), I think a motorcycle-style carrier may be a good idea (for one, you'll want a heat retaining bag at the least). <A> I attached a waterproof spruce square (42x43 cm²) permanently with 8 cable zips to my luggage carrier. <S> Corners rounded, holes for bungee cords drilled, bungee cords with cable zips permanently attached on the front sied (so they are not stolen). <S> This is dirt cheap, a great help in everyday transport of any goods and lasts for over one year now. <S> (Instiration taken from there: http://borumat.de/fahrrad-gepaecktraeger-platte <S> (german) and http://borumat.de/bilder/rad/hochstapelei.jpg )
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For the ultimate in pizza carrying, you want a pneumatic air suspension, pendulum-based anti-sway bar equipped carrier.
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I want to weld or braze the pedal to the crank arm, but what metals are they? I ruined the threading in my crank arm, and would like to weld or braze it back on, instead of buying a new crank set. It is a cheap old bike, so the result does not have to be perfect, but it should be cheap and durable. I have welded on iron (an exhaust pipe and the like) in the past, and if this was just iron, I could fix it with no problems, but in this case it is not that easy. Pedal arm: I think it is of aluminium. It seems light. Not magnetic. Looks like aluminium. I have no other guesses. Pedal shaft: Steel, maybe even cast iron? I don't know how to tell the difference. It is definitely not aluminium. The material is stronger than the alu in the pedal arm, since the thread is intact. It looks sort of dirtyish / dark gray. Dark gray like some heavy parts in an engine which I believe are made from cast iron. Only slight rust despite a long life. Very far from the look of a stainless bolt. Can you help me figure out what metals they are made from, so I can move on to finding the appropriate welding or brazing? Thanks. <Q> Welding aluminum and steel is not a DIY skill - read <S> This . <S> If you must repair rather than replace, a helicoil is the correct way to address the problem. <S> A crank would be cheaper than the coil alone, let alone the time to fix it. <S> Chemical bonding (AKA. <S> Glue) is probably the only DIY solution. <S> The issue I see is that when a pedal comes off while riding, it usually ends in tears (at best) up to a stay in hospital or worse. <S> Why take the risk? <S> Second hand cranks are readily available - I have a box of bit with at least 2 sets and an old bike with another if I needed it. <S> Your LBS will probably have something for a few dollars. <S> Visit you local rubbish tip/recycle center - I can almost guarantee they will have an old, unride-able bike with usable cranks. <A> You will spend far more $$ on welding supplies than the cost of a new crank arm. <S> The crank arm is an aluminum alloy and the pedal shaft is a tool grade steel alloy. <S> You can replace both for the cost of just the gas to attempt brazing the two metals. <S> Aluminum has a relatively low melting point. <S> If it was a really old cast steel crank, you might have a chance. <S> But it still would cost more than replacing the crank outright. <A> It depends on your welding set-up and experience, but I wouldn't bother. <S> Stuff the crank eye with it and screw the pedal in as far as it goes. <S> Once it's gone off if should be good enough for rock n roll. <A> Welding the pedal to the crank should NEVER be done. <S> Pedal threads are oriented such that in the event of a pedal bearings becoming jammed the pedals will unscrew from the cranks rather than injure the rider. <S> Severe injury is possible if the pedal jams while pedaling at a fast cadence or on a bike that does not have a freewheel or freehub body (e.g. fixed gear). <S> I have personally have had pedal bearings jam, while pedaling at an incredibly high rate of cadence and was thankful that the pedal simply un-threaded rather than damage my knee or ankle. <S> Note: <S> I agree with commenters that the primary design reason was likely to allow mechanical precession to keep the threads tight during pedalling. <S> The un-threading of a jammed pedal is likely a secondary design feature that may or may not been considered during the inclusion of a left-hand thread. <S> The answer however is not trying to provide a history lesson, or in any way comment on the design history, rather it simply discusses what is lost by permanently fixing the pedal axle to the crank. <A> Either a helicoil or a replacement crank arm (or set) is a better choice. <S> Or look for some on your local internet flea market. <S> The shops are getting in old bikes as trade ins all the time and might use the parts off those bikes for this kind of job. <S> I'd replace the pedals too, otherwise you risk damaging the crank arm threads again. <S> I think in the long run you'll be money ahead, have a more reliable and safer bike, by not trying to do this w/a patch-welding job. <S> Think about it. <S> The only problem you have is a a damaged hole in the crank arm. <S> A faulty hole. <S> That's not such a big problem, right? <S> So that's what you need to focus on. <S> Don't overcomplicate it. <A> Get a pedal thread insert. <S> here's a description of how to install one: http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.com/2010/12/repairing-stripped-pedal-thread.html
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You'll also have to be really good at brazing not to completely destroy the aluminum crank arm in the process. You local bike shop might have some compatible used cranksets they'd sell for cheap. Assuming the threads still engage a little bit, I'd get some hardcore epoxy resin (the sort that's specially designed for metal-on-metal; it often contains iron filings).
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Do softer tires provide better suspension? From my limited experience, soft tires feel more bouncy than hard ones, with same pressure. That is, if you lift and drop front side of unloaded bike, with soft rubber on front wheel it will jump like a bouncy ball (kind of). But with hard rubber it'll jump more like badly inflated football/basketball (at low pressure) or like a sack of potatoes (at high pressure). Other things being equal (size, tread, pressure), do you think soft rubber tire will provide better suspension than hard rubber? EDIT: made a test with Schwalbe CX Comp (soft) vs some Vee Rubber harder compound tire (same width) - dropped front side of unloaded bike from a small height. CX Comp definitely feels more bouncy and jumps more silently. But actually maybe they bounce with same rebound, since it's hard to measure precisely. <Q> Most definitely. <S> I have some Schwalbe <S> Marathon Plus HS <S> 440 - very puncture resistant tire. <S> It is hard rubber and has a puncture insert. <S> It is a hard tire and gives a hard ride anywhere in the pressure range. <S> I have a softer same size less less ballistic tire on another bike and at the same pressure it is a softer ride a nicer grip. <S> And it is not the bike - I noticed the hard ride as soon as I put the tires on the bike. <S> Is it a mountain bike? <S> You want a soft ride then put some 2.2+ tubeless on it and run at 30 - 40 PSI. <A> There are tires made out of thin layers of relatively soft rubber, and ones (usually for puncture resistance) made out of thick layers of relatively stiff (almost like plastic) rubber. <S> At a given tire pressure, the soft tire will be "bouncier" because the softer rubber has less of a viscoelastic damping effect than the harder rubber. <S> As a result, the softer tire will have less rolling resistance for a given tire pressure . <S> (This is why I prefer puncture-resistant tires that employ a Kevlar belt (eg, <S> Forte K models) vs those (Schwalbe Marathon) that employ a thick hard rubber layer in the tread -- less rolling resistance.) <A> I don't think your premise is right - an overinflated tire should be bouncier and faster than an underinflated tire which should provide better shock absorption at the risk of more tire damage. <S> A properly inflated tire should balance this out. <S> A more rigid construction of the tire (i.e. the actual structure of the tire with cords and what not, and rubber) can change the ride characteristics though (presumably to be more rigid). <S> The term "better" is a bit too subjective and one person may hate the tire which you consider to have the best suspension properties and vice versa. <A> As @Batman mentions, it's more about the construction than the rubber compound, but I suppose thick MTB tyres will cushion bumps better if they are made from softer rubber. <S> Lightweight racing tyres tend to be thinner, especially in the sidewalls - there they are made as thin as possible because puncture resistance is not a priority. <S> Such tyres are typically very supple, and even when inflated to high pressures (100-120 PSI) they can still feel "soft" and provide a very nice ride. <S> Wider tyres can also improve the suspension effect. <S> Generally their recommended pressure range will be lower than that of an equivalent narrow tyre, because they hold a greater volume of air.
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A softer rubber compound should mostly be for increasing grip (and many tires are made of several rubber hardnesses in order to increase longevity).
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Why are aero bars usually disallowed in gran fondos? Why are aero bars usually disallowed in Gran Fondos ( cyclosportive events)? I'm just curious. I would think it would be a useful piece of equipment when riding 100 miles. <Q> I now realise "gran fondo" <S> is American terminology for "cyclosportive". <S> That sort of event falls loosely between audax and racing. <S> The randonneuring community prize responsible riding, and tend to frown upon behaviour or equipment that could be deemed "antisocial". <S> For example, most audax events require riders to fit mudguards, for the benefit of others. <S> In "gran fondos", although riders may only be competing against their own personal goals, they may find themselves sharing the same stretch of road with others, and some participants may wish to treat the event as a private race. <S> Steering control is severely compromised when using aero bars. <S> They're not considered safe when riders may be racing in close proximity - a slight wobble could cause a major takedown. <A> @headeronly has the best answer, but this is a great supplementary quote from The Rules: <S> The Way of the Cycling Disciple by The Velominati . <S> It's a tongue-in-cheek book but illuminates the problems nicely. <S> For a while, aerobars were allowed in one-day races and road-race stages of Grand Tours. <S> But this presented a new problem; when a rider’s grip on the bars is narrowed into an aero position, their hands are far away from the brakes, the steering of the bike is compromised and controlling the machine in a situation where there are up to 200 people riding butt to nose to shoulder, it becomes much more of an issue than if you are barreling into a corner at speed, all alone and can pick whatever line you please. <S> While the type of aerobars were more compact than those typically used in a time trial (i.e., Spinaci bars), there was an increase in sketchiness within the peloton that couldn’t be ignored. <S> Mostly on the grounds of safety, they were banned from mass-start events. <A> Well, the simple answer is that aerobars aren't very helpful unless you are riding at reasonable speed (say, >18MPH or so), but most people who ride at that speed would prefer to ride in a paceline, which gives more benefit than aerobars.
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Aerobars are unsafe in pacelines because riders cannot maneuver as well as being on the drop bars. They're not great for cornering either. Hence the reason they're illegal in most events, except triathlon and time trials, where riders are mostly spread apart and riding fairly straight courses.
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Rear wheel rubs frame after tire change I recently changed the rear tire and paid no attention to the original working state of the rear derailleur. After a miserable attempt at resembling, I lost what I now think was the Derailleur bolt and nut (one flat side, curved elsewhere) during a short ride. It's since been replaced with whatever nut and screw I could find laying around. Like the first attempt (with all the original parts still available) at reattaching the wheel, after a hard pedel, especially uphill, the wheel will move from centered. The tire rubs against the frame creating enough resistance to make pedaling feel impossible. The rear dropout has a small screw hole and a large triangle cutout. I cannot find a configuration that allows the derailleur to screw into the small hole, and so am fastening it using the larger triangle. Is the placement of the derailleur the problem? Do I just need to turn the nuts holding the axle on a little harder? after the axle has slipped down: <Q> Don't worry, they're dead cheap. <S> Without it the hanger won't stay in place without the wheel nuts done up tight. <S> You can get away without one (see matt's answer), but it's not ideal. <S> It's better and less fiddly to use a proper mounting nut: <S> The way you've set it up now is totally wrong - the triangle-shaped hole is just a cutout in the rear dropout - it isn't designed to have anything mounted to it. <S> I presume the other hole of which you speak is a mudguard or rack mounting eye. <A> Do not ride the bike like that. <S> Do not just tighten the nuts. <S> I can clearly see the outline of where the derailleur was previously mounted. <S> The derailleur should be mounted in a similar position. <S> The small screw hole is a mount point for a carrier, which is probably why you cannot get things back how they were - it should be clear of obstruction when the wheel/derailleur are assembled. <S> The axle must sit fully within the drop-outs of the frame. <S> Undo the right side nut fully, and install the wheel using the left nut to hold it reasonably firmly. <S> Use the marks on the frame to guide you to axle location and center the wheel rim on the brakes/frame. <S> From there, the derailluer should be able to be slotted in and the right hand nut tightened. <A> I had a similar problem with an old steel-frame bike that I "rescued. <S> " It had sliding dropouts so that the wheel could essentially be positioned forward or rearward as needed. <S> What would happen is that the nut would come loose and one side of the axle would slide forward in the dropout causing the rub. <S> My solution: <S> A small lock washer or nut on the other side of the dropout and cranking the nut really tight. <S> That worked, although it made wheel removal kind of a pain. <S> I ended up selling the bike before I found a better, more permanent solution though.
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Once the axle is done up properly it will hold the derailluer, the small screw is really a locating screw and used to hold the deraulleur when the wheel is removed. You've lost the derailleur hanger mounting nut. That configuration is quite dangerous and clearly wrong.
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Small Tear in Michelin Pro4 Tire, Does It Need To Be Replaced? Got back from a bike ride and noticed a small tear on the sidewall of my tire. I'm wondering if I can just seal it with some Goo Gone or do I need to replace the tire. I do have spares lying around so not a big deal. But I don't want to replace it if I have to. Thanks! <Q> I folded a dollar-bill and placed it between the tube and tire on my last set of tires. <S> That lasted <S> about four months before the tube finally pushed it's way out the tear and popped. <S> Safest bet is to replace the tire. <S> But in a pinch, the dollar-bill trick will at least get you home/to the bike shop. <A> Unlike on a car tire, the sidewall isn't more important than the rest of the tire, really [ on a car tire, if the sidewall goes, you're going to blow out]. <S> This link from Sheldon is good reading: "If you are mainly concerned with safety/function, there are only two reasons for replacing old tires: 1) <S> When the tread is worn so thin that you start getting a lot of flats from small pieces of glass and the like, or the fabric shows through the rubber.2) <S> When the tire's fabric has been damaged, so that the tire has a lumpy, irregular appearance somewhere, or the tube bulges through the tire. <S> " <S> I'd probably use some adhesive on it to seal it up unless going on long rides often. <A> People patch tubless mountain bike tires all the time. <S> You could use a slime tire patch kit , used frequently for Motorcycle, ATV, and Dirt Bike tires as those patches are a bit more durable than standard bike tube patches. <S> It seems like all the amazon review are from mountain bikers. <S> It's best to use the larger patches to cover as much area as possible. <S> I've been running a couple sets of tires patched like this with no ill effects. <S> Alternatively, I've also run a tire with a park tool tire boot for months without any issue.
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I've used a regular bike tube patch on the inside of the tire as well. With a tear that small, I wouldn't be too concerned running it as long as it doesn't get any bigger.
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Quick Release on Fixed Gear Bike I recently purchased a fixed gear bike, Kilo TT . I had some fenders lying around, SKS raceblade . I tried to install them on my bikebut noticed that the fenders attached to the skewers. My fixed gear bike has bolts in the front and back and the fenders only fit quick release skewers. What are some options? Can I put QR skewers on a fixed gear bike? Is there a reason they come with bolts? <Q> They come with bolts because QR's typcially don't clamp with enough force to keep the wheel from slipping forward. <S> It looks like you have rear facing dropouts, so you should easily be able to use QR's if you get yourself a Surly Tuggnut . <S> That little circle on the side of it is a QR adapter. <S> You just pop it in and then slide your skewer all the way through. <S> It's not a bad idea to have a chain tensioner anyway. <S> One on the drive side will help you get the chain tensioned correctly when mounting the wheel. <S> I've had it happen. <S> It sucks. <S> I've used a bunch of chain tensioners and can say from experience that the Tuggnut is by far the easiest to use on the market, partially because it's the only one I've ever found that requires no tools. <S> It's also the only one I've ever found that has a QR adapter. <S> The built-in bottle opener is handy too. <S> After that little rant, I feel I should mention that I am in no way affiliated with Surly. <S> The tuggnut is just a really good product. <A> His highness Sir Sheldon Brown says you should be okay to use a quick release with an enclosed cam ( not an exposed cam ) with an acorn nut that has steel teeth ( not aluminum teeth ). <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html <S> disclaimer: there's no guarantee <S> this is safe with your particular bike, modify with care and be safe. <A> Just to add to the other answers, it is my experience that you can't get as secure a fit with a QR skewer as with a nutted axle. <S> If your bike has track forks (like below), rather than forward facing horizontal dropouts, you can probably get away with this, especially by adding a chain tug to keep the wheel from sliding forward in the rear fork end. <S> If however your bike is a fixie conversion with an old-school horizontal dropout (like below) <S> I'd highly advise against using a QR. <S> The forces exerted when pedalling tend to pull the rear wheel forward relative to the rest of the bike. <S> The axle nut is the only thing resisting this force. <S> If this connection isn't tight enough your rear wheel could fall out of the dropouts when in motion. <S> With a fixed gear drivetrain this is very dangerous for obvious reasons. <S> You can't use a chain tug to prevent this as they old work for backward-facing track forks. <S> Images from sheldon brown <A> With the horizontal dropout the axle can shift. <S> You pretty much need the nuts to get a tight enough grip. <S> But I suspect people have used quick release on a single speed. <S> So Sheldon states an enclosed cam is good enough - not good enough for me. <S> I am not buying the historical reasons as I see new bikes with nutted horizontal dropout and still QR on the front. <S> If they were doing it for historical reason they would nut front and rear. <S> At some point you need to trust that he manufacturer did it that way for a reason. <S> I have never seen a manufacturer with QR on a horizontal drop out. <S> The other factor is alignment. <S> I typically tighten the non drive side first and tweak the drive side for chain tension. <S> The other factor is the axle size. <S> On my single speed the axle/skewer is much larger. <S> I have never seen a nut on the smaller size and never seen QR for the larger size. <A> Please note that since those fenders are mounted on the outer side of the frame, your skewers are tightened against the fender brackets instead of tightened directly against the frame. <S> Therefore the skewer's nut splines and material are not the only thing to look at. <S> You could of course get a pair of those anti-theft-skewers that you tighten with a wrench to get enough torque... <S> I would simply just enlarge the hole in the fender bracket to 10mm. <S> Preferably with a round file, since drilling through an oval hole is cumbersome by hand. <S> That'd be easiest and most reliable. <S> No need to swap axles and you could securely tighten your nuts as before. <S> Discalimer: Modifying the brackets would of course make your fenders un-returnable to the store if they don't fit for some other reason. <A> You could avoid interfering with your wheel fastening solution by mounting the guards using P-clips on the seat stays. <A> Don't change the axle assembly just to fit mudguards!! <S> Adapt the mudguards instead. <S> As pointed out lockuts secure the wheel with much greater force than skewers. <S> I have these mudguards and whilst they are suited for use with skewers you need to use an adapter with a bigger hole to fit them. <S> Alternatively direct mount the mudguards to the frame.
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I personally like to use chain tensioners on both sides so that the wheel doesn't get knocked crooked if I hit a bump. I've always used a quick release for the front of my fixed gear bike, I've only ever used the bolts on the back.
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How can I keep spiders and other bugs off my bicycle? I am an extreme arachnophobe, to the point that I've left dishes in the sink due to a dead spider the size of an M&M. My bike at work is right in the open, and because of the soft winter, there are dozens of spiders around the parking lot. I very much doubt I can deal with one or more of them sitting or even forming webs on my bicycle without getting all freaked out about it. I don't want them to get in my bike, form webs on it or even get within a couple of feet of it. Are there any methods I can use? I found https://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/2384/what-can-i-do-to-keep-my-shed-or-house-free-of-spiders , but most of those are hard to apply to bikes. <Q> Don't use poison. <S> It will likely not work. <S> Would you be able to remove a dead spider from your bike anyway? <S> How would you know it was dead? <S> Poison is bad for other insects and animals in general. <S> It's bad for you. <S> I believe it's against the spirit of biking too. <S> I don't think a bike cover will work for you. <S> You will give spiders another place to hide. <S> Unless it wraps around your bike tightly it will likely have creases that again will create perfect places for spiders to hide. <S> My bike is my main means of transport <S> and I have never encounter a spider on it. <S> Perhaps because I never look for them. <S> So as soon as you approach your bike just jump on it and ride ;-) <A> Following on from Johnny's answer of using compressed air, how about getting one of those computer air duster cans ( a bit like this one) , and a water bottle holder (a metal one with some flex in it, so you can re-adjust the size of the bottle that it can hold). <S> One like this is a great example: Then put the air duster in the water bottle holder! <S> It's a good way to hold it without having to rummage around for it in a bag when you see a spider! <S> Note <S> : I have no idea if these ones fit right now. <S> I will check tomorrow as I have a can or two lying around. <A> I'm the same way. <S> I used one of the spider repellent pouches, Stay Away. <S> I kept it on my bike for a while and spiders decreased!
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Even if it's very well sealed I can't see any reason why spiders wouldn't want to wander around your cover just as they wander around your bike. What you can do: use your bike frequently, clean your bike frequently, carry an air blower for safe removal of stray insects from your bike without coming into direct contact with them (you might even be able to use your bike pump for that if you carry one).
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Can I use a Shimano 105 10 speed BCD 130mm 52t chainring as a replacement in my 9 speed tiagra triple crankset? I currently run Tiagra triple 9 speed crank, 50/39/30The BCD on the 50 being 130mm.I'd like to replace the 50t with a 52t to make it 52/39/30.I'm looking at a Shimano 105 52t chainring but it says it's intended for a double crank and 10 speed drivetrain. But you think I can make that ring work in my setup? <Q> Should work fine, assuming the BCD on the 105 52t chain ring is also 130 mm (and not 110 mm - compact). <S> Make sure to orient the new ring in the correct position with the small metal tab (that catches an errant chain) pointing toward the crank arm. <A> First, consider this; can you spin out the 50t? <S> If not, there isn't anything to be gained by going to a larger chain-ring. <S> At a cadence of 90rpm and a 50t x 11t will yield over 32mph & a speed of about 42.5mph could be attained with 120rpm. <S> Even with 50t x 13t & 90rpm, the speed would be close to 28mph. <S> If you make the switch, you may find the front derailleur can't handle the larger chain-ring, so check the specs first. <S> Older Tiagra derailleurs could handle up to 53t, but the design was changed for better shifting, and the current model specification shows a top gear of 50t with a range of 20t (meaning the difference between the large chain-ring & the small ring can be no more than 20t, ie. <S> with a 50t outer ring the inner ring could be no smaller than 30t) <A> The jumps between gears is not large so shifting would likely not be a problem but this will not be the quietest of drivetrains.
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As long as your front derailleur can be adjusted vertically to accommodate the 52tooth chainring, the drivetrain should run fine. The 105 chainring will be profiled ever so slightly thinner for the 10 speed chain, but will not affect 9 speed performance.
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Advice for getting Campagnolo Zonda wheelset on a 2000 8 speed shimano rsx So I have an old road bike and instead of coughing up cash for new one I've decided to just start upgrading parts now and slowly build a better custom bike, one piece at a time. My bike currently has shimano rsx group set minus the shifters which were replaced with Shimano sora flight deck triple shifters. Old stuff I know! Triple ring in front and 8 in back. So I wanted to get this wheel set: http://www.wiggle.com/campagnolo-zonda-clincher-wheelset/ But it says compatible with 10 and 11 speeds. How can I get this working on my bike? without having to get a newer crankset (10 or 11 speed) or group set. I want to get a new group set but rather get wheels first to make riding more fun and fast. Any advice is mush appreciated! Relatively new to upgrading. <Q> Campagnolo (not Mavic) make a Shimano-compatible cassette body for the Zonda. <S> It's the same unit as they also use on the Fulcrum wheels and it will take a genuine Shimano cassette directly. <S> Whilst the cassette body is advertised as 10/11s, it will work fine with 8s - the spline pattern on the inside of the cassette sprockets is the same. <S> You will need to use the supplied spacer under the cassette in order to lock it firmly in place. <S> HTH, Graeme - Velotech Cycling Ltd - Campagnolo <S> main UK SC <A> My advice is "don't". <S> Campagnolo doesn't typically play nice with non-Campy stuff without jumping through hoops (see footnote). <S> In particular, Shimano cassettes (which you need for <=10 speed systems for Shimano shifters) won't go on a Campagnolo freehub. <S> So, you need to either move completely to Campy (expensive) or buy a rear wheel which is Shimano compatible. <S> A 11 speed Shimano comaptible freehub will take an 8 speed cassette with some spacer(s) thrown on. <S> Most <11 speed Shimano compatible freehubs will not take a 11 speed cassette since they are too short (exception is some Mavic ones). <S> [Zinn has found that the 11 speed stuff plays OK with each other , but Sora isn't a 11 speed set] <S> I'd personally recommend getting a wheel ( <S> if you had to) which has a Shimano compatible freehub on it. <S> And for what its worth, 8 speeds is plenty - you may want a different cassette in the back or whatever, but you'll get a lot more gain if you become more fit <S> [you may also feel faster on a racier bike; given that wheels are one of the most expensive parts of a bike (along with the frame and shifters), you may just want to upgrade to a whole new racier bike ]. <S> For this reason, I'd say if the wheel is working, don't bother replacing it (or if it isn't <S> and it needs minor repairs, e.g. truing, get that done and go ride). <S> Footnote <S> : I understand there are hacks such as JTek Shiftmates for interfacing Campy wheels+hubs with Shimano shifters and what not, but this is not an ideal option [and I don't know the entire Campy compatibility ruleset, so I choose to ignore it]. <A> Yes, this is old but: get the Shimano freehub, no problems at all. <S> Zonda is a nice awheel set at a good price. <S> Hope you bought them.
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There are also freehubs which have parts which can be swapped for switching between Shimano and Campy (made by Mavic), but this is also rather expensive.
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How can you identify if a Shimano rear derailleur is medium or long cage? I have a 2013 Shimano XT rear derailleur. It is part of a 2x10 drivetrain. How can I find out if it is a medium or a long cage one? The picture below shows the derailleur. <Q> The picture is a RD-M780-SGS long cage. <S> Shimano have three codes for rear derailleur length: <S> Short - SS Medium - GS Long - SGS <S> I'm not aware of where this is printed on the RD though so not so helpful. <S> However Shimano only have one non-clutched XT Dyna-Sys (10 speed) RD the RD-M780-SGS (long cage 43t capacity). <S> Saint derailleurs come in SS (short 23t cap with cassette extender) and GS (medium 37t cap with cassette extender) for more gravity focused 1x set ups. <A> I do not believe there is any such thing as a "medium" cage XT derailleur, just long and extended. <S> Medium and short cages are typically the domain of road/touring drive trains, as they use more compact gearing on the cassettes. <S> All modern XT derailleurs appear to have can take the same cassette range (e.g., one , two , three ) while some have a little extra capacity to pick up more chain slack for multiple chainring set ups. <S> (Among a few other subtle differences.) <S> UPDATED <S> I stand corrected (thank you cherouvim). <S> What I termed long and extended appear to be officially termed "medium" and "long". <S> A list of definitions can be found here: How to calculate the capacity of a rear derailleur . <S> I leave the above incorrect answer intact for reference purpoes. <S> For the OP, here are pictures of a the Shimano XT derailleur (RD-M786) in both a medium and long version. <S> Looking at the cage in your derailleur it is more consistent with long cage model. <S> Shimano XT RD-M786-GS-L (Medium) <S> Shimano XT RD-M786-SGS-L <S> (Long) <A> Very simply, short cages look quite short and long cages look quite long, especially so when compared side by side ( indeed, your photo is of a long cage ). <S> If you were in a position to actually choose between buying one or the other, your LBS would surely go a long way to help, or you would have to do a considerable amount of reading: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#chain
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Short cages typically have just a centimeter or so of space between the two pulleys, and well, you can see that a long cage has considerably more to accommodate the extra chain length needed for larger rings in either the front or back ( or both the front and back! ). The clutched (shadow+) RDs come in GS (medium 35t cap) and SGS (long 43t cap).
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Traveling road bikes that disassemble I did a ride with a guy who had a bike like this http://www.sandsmachine.com/a_rod_r2.htm It was a regular road bike (Allow) that you could disassemble and fit in a case slightly larger than the wheels. He said he used his bike for Triathlons and other riding events. I am interested in configuring my own bike to work this way (Regular road bike, steel) <Q> The mechanism that allows disassembling the frame is called an S&S Coupling, Bicycle Torque Coupling or BTC . <A> You can buy a new frame or order a custom frame with S&S couplers. <S> Some builders will also add them after market to some frames; usually steel or titanium. <S> S&S couplers add around 1 pound to the weight of a single frame. <S> Another lighter, cheaper option is Ritchey Break-away frames. <S> They're available in steel or titanium, road or cross configurations. <S> Some people have suggested the Break-away may not be as stiff as S&S, but it's easy to find happy owners of both on forums. <S> I only have first hand experience with S&S couplers on a steel tandem. <S> They were problem-free in that application. <A> Depending on how you will use your bike there are a few alternatives for travelling. <S> I've seen the frame online for around $1000. <S> For commuting: With a more commuter minded focus Montague makes bikes that fold in half though they're going to be larger than your wheels even while folded. <S> For racing: Buy a bike specific travel bag such as the EVOC bag. <S> If you really want to race hard you'll want a race specific bike not one with extra mechanisms made for traveling.
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Ritchey also makes a similar frame. For touring: It might be worth while considering bikes that come with a coupler installed already such as the Surly Trucker Deluxe ( http://surlybikes.com/bikes/trucker_deluxe ). Searching for bikes with this mechanism should allow you find other models of bikes that can be disassembled in the same manner.
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Shimano Tiagra Rear Derailleur - Barrel Adjuster Won't Screw In My rear derailleur barrel adjuster has unscrewed completely and now I can't get it back in. Is it likely that I've damaged something here, or is there some special technique to screw in barrel adjusters that I don't know about!? <Q> just in case someone else stumbles upon this while trying to solve a busted thread for the barrel adjuster, I managed to solve this yesterday by rethreading the aluminium derailleur housing gradually by going with smaller size thread screws first, then finishin with m5 <S> , that's the size of the barrel adjuster screw thread, which was in my case still intact. <S> The problem was that a bike mech was lazy and didn't want to adjust the cable tension manually, so he/she unscrewed the barrel adjuster so far out of the derailleur, that it only held itself in place by 2/3 bends, in which case the leverage on those bends in case of an impact on the barrel adjuster is so great, that the soft aluminium thread inside the housing has no chance of withstanding that. <A> There are three parts: a threaded tube, a spring and the plastic barrel. <S> The tube fits into the barrel and the spring goes over the threads, then the cable goes up the middle of all of them. <S> You screw the adjuster in while pushing the tube with a fingertip. <S> You might screw the tube in first to check if the threading in the derailleur is ok, but usually that's not necessary. <A> This answer might help one like me, because the same problem occured for me, barrel adjuster completely unthreaded and could not tighten back into derailleur. <S> Try to get tap hole(threaded hole) in derailleur inline to barrel adjuster screw, if you couldn't Now remove the cable from rear derailleur and barrel adjuster. <S> in barrel adjuster, take screw alone and try to tighten it in tap hole of derailleur, tighten and loose it 2 to 3 times to make it align to thread.(see barrel adjuster assembly components above) <S> Now place your barrel adjuster assembly and tighten it clockwise into derailleur. <S> After fully tightening, turn anticlockwise 2 to 3 turns. <S> assemble your cable into barrel adjuster and derailleur. <S> put your chain in smallest rear gear and shift lever position to last. <S> Without slack on cable, pull with cutting Blair, tighten the fixing screw or nut. <S> Try to shift to one large gear on rear, if it does not shift, cable is still loose, retighten the cable and fix once again
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Things to do: Don't panic and try tightening a lot, it would worse your situation barrel adjuster get tighten to derailleur, only thread taphole and barrel adjuster screw are inline
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How to remove completely stuck saddle post from frame I am helping a friend fix his bike that he got for free. Everything went well, except that I cant raise the saddle. The seatpost is really stuck in the frame. The clamp was easily removed. When I tried to turn the saddle only the saddle itself is turning, and the seatpost remained stuck. I tightened the saddle bracket as hard as I could, and I managed to turn the seat post a few millimeters back and forth. But somehow it is even more stuck now and I can't move it at all. I am afraid that I will bend/break the bracket in the seat if I tighten it anymore. I tried with a pipe wrench and still couldn't twist it. Perhaps I will be able to if I have another person holding the bike so I have two hands for the wrench. I did manage to damage the surface of the seat post though. I have a few questions: How would a professional remove the seatpost? Why is it even stuck? Can this happen because of rust, or is it more likely because the previous owner hammered a 30.2mm seatpost into a frame meant for 30mm? I can see at the Wikipediaartikel ( link ) that both 29.6, 29.8, 30.0, 30.2 and 30.4mm are common sizes. As I don't have a precise caliper I can only tell you that it is approximately 30mm. If it is because of rust, can I polish off the rust and use the same seatpost again? If so, should I polish the post or the internal part of the frame? <Q> Penetrating oil (Liquid Wrench). <S> It may take a few days as it needs to work its way down. <S> Or it may free it up in a few minutes. <S> You should grease the seatpost to help prevent this. <S> If you don't bend the post then I would reuse it. <S> It is most likely rust. <S> You cannot hammer in an over sized seatpost. <S> If you do sacrifice the seatpost and use a use a lot of force with a pipe wrench then don't have the pipe wrench close to the bike as you could get the post out of round and really jam it in there. <S> That may have happened when you got it to move a bit and then jammed. <S> You have a couple comments of use heat <S> and I don't disagree <S> but I would hit it with penetrating oil for a couple days before I resorted to heat. <S> Not just once. <S> You need to hit every few hours with oil. <S> If you do go heat then heat gun before torch. <A> I had the same problem. <S> I hit the vice grips with a hammer, repeatedly. <S> This will jar it <S> loose- <S> it took me about 15 minutes. <S> The bad news: when I did this with my bike, it left deep scratches on the post (the vice grips will come loose and need to be clamped down again). <A> So, for starters, I wouldn't worry too much about damaging the seat post--it's likely that you'll need a new one anyway. <S> Or you'll need to really buff the post off, and that will remove any scratches. <S> Eventually, though, I would recommend getting an aluminum post, that will help keep this from happening again (see my next point). <S> I would be very surprised to learn that someone had forced (successfully) a 30.2mm seat post in to a 30mm seat tube. <S> Particularly because there are no obvious deformations in either piece. <S> However, things rusting and sticking together is very common, but perhaps not in the bike world. <S> So, on to the crux of the question: how to get it apart? <S> I think you're on to something using a pipe wrench to try to twist it free. <S> Personally I like PB Blaster , but WD-40 is similar. <S> Spray it down, and let it soak in for a few minutes <S> (if you have the bottom bracket off, you may try turning the bike over and spraying it in to the bottom of the seat tube, might not hurt). <S> You can also try hitting the frame/post with a mallet to break it apart a bit. <S> I know this sounds like voodoo, but getting rusted stuff apart usually comes down to brute force and ignorance. <S> And lube. <S> If you're really desperate you can heat the seat tube with a blow torch while you work the post loose, but that will risk blistering the paint on the frame (also lighting the PB Blaster on fire, so be careful with that). <S> Godspeed. <A> I recommend hitting the stuck seatpost with something like PB blaster for a while. <S> If that doesn't work, I normally stick the seatpost in a vise and try to get some leverage on it that way (this is out of order with the tips of Sheldon). <S> Sheldon has 14 tips for removing a stuck seat post which you can see here . <S> As for heating, I've found that sunlight provides enough heat in some areas to help with the process.
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The risk you take with a lot of force with a pipe wrench is you bend the bike or brake off the post or get the post out of round. You should also use some sort of penetrating lubricant to help get it loose. Secondly, yes, it is almost certainly rusted together. I used vise grips and clamped down very tightly.
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Loose pedal bent under pressure I was riding home today (with clipless pedals; SPD) and noticed my ankle was twisting strangely with each rotation of my legs. I had just gotten to the top of a massive hill. I pulled off to the sidewalk and inspected my pedal. Turns out that the pedal had begun to loosen (perhaps it was never tight enough?) and the force of me pedaling on it had bent it a bit. I was quite upset because I was still 20 minutes away from home. I tried getting the pedal off, but I was unable to loosen it (with a wrench, or hex key from the side) What should I do? I'm thinking of taking a powerdrill and forcing it out. Will this be an okay solution? Will my crank arm be damaged at all? Here is a picture as you can see the bend is very imperceptible. You can really tell when you pedal on it though. From the picture you can also see how loose the pedal got when it started to bend. Do you guys think there is hope in saving the crank? Thanks for the advice guys, I'm going to take this to my LBS and see what they say. I'll let you know what happens! EDIT: Turns out that the pedals were not installed tight enough and it resulted in some cross-threading. My LBS said that the crank wasn't damaged too much. He re-threaded the crank and said that it should be okay, but that I should watch out in case that happened again. <Q> Generally speaking, when a pedal works its way loose and is ridden for a decent amount of time, it does strip (and thus ruin) <S> the crank arm. <S> The only way you can be sure that the crank arm is good is to inspect it. <S> A picture of how its bent in would be helpful, but theres a decent chance that both parts will have to be written off. <A> I've had something similar (but more dramatic) happen <S> and I lost the crank arm. <S> It seems to be made of softer medal, luckily, than the pedal, which was absolutely fine <S> and I still use. <S> Crank arms are pretty cheap when compared to pedals anyway. <S> The damage may all be to the crank arm. <S> I agree with Batman, the crank arms is probably a write-off. <S> But it's probably the case that your aluminum crank arm came up again <S> your tempered steel pedal and the latter's threading has decisively won. <S> Which is all for the best. <S> I would say whatever your course of action, don't risk the pedal for the crank. <S> Removing a stuck pedal <A> As others have pointed out, it's probably not so much bent but cross-threaded . <S> The threads fatigued because the shoulder on the pedal shaft wasn't seated on the crank arm. <S> If you keep riding it as-is (not suggested) <S> the pedal will fall off all by itself! <S> When the pedal comes off, you can do as Blam suggested and run the pedal through from the inside to clean the damaged threads on the crank arm. <S> Lubrication helps. <S> As Nathan pointed out, it's very likely that the softer crank threads gave-way to the harder pedal threads. <S> When re-installing the pedal make sure the shoulder on the pedal shaft seats firmly on the crank arm. <S> It might hold long enough to arrange for a new crank arm. <S> Why did it fatigue and why will it hold now? <S> If the shoulder on the pedal shaft is not seated, the threads will alternate between compression & tension which worsens fatigue. <S> If the shoulder is seated, <S> all the (remaining) threads are in tension working together. <S> And, there's a moment/torque principle involved too. <A> Hit it with a bigger wrench. <S> Right side should have normal threads. <S> CNC Pedal Rod <S> I would try a bigger wrench before drilling it out. <S> You have to drill exactly in the center. <S> You will need a press. <S> If the pedal bent there is a pretty good chance crank was damaged. <S> If the threads are just marred up a bit you might be able to clean them up by running a fresh pedal through from the inside.
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So I'd guess your crank arm is damaged (especially if its at the point where you can't loosen the pedal). One thing in your favor: judging by the ~3mm gap between the shoulder and the crank arm, you might have about 3mm of un-molested threads on the crank arm.
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Replacing a groupset in step purchases At the moment, on my road bike, I have Shimano Tiagra groupset. I would like to upgrade it to Sram Red, but I cannot afford to pay for the whole groupset at one time and would like to buy them in steps. I am wondering if this would be possible to do. If yes which components would I need to buy first? Thank you. <Q> If you want to upgrade gradually you need to follow the compatibility of the groupsets. <S> If your Tiagra groupset is the 4600 series of 2012, the 10 speed components should be compatible with other Shimano 10 speed road components, so you can use Dura Ace 7800 and 7900, Ultegra 6600 and 6700, and "105" 5600 and 5700. <S> The amount of cable pull per gear is different between Shimano 10sp road and Shimano 10sp mtb. <S> SRAM 10sp doesn't use the same cable pull as Shimano 10sp road or mtb. <A> I did something similar last year but waited until I had all the components before assembly. <S> If you are patient and you buy only when you think the price is the best you've seen there are deals out there. <S> It was time consuming (18 months) but the savings can be worth it. <S> I got an Ultegra groupset for about $600 one component at a time. <S> Also evaluate if Sram Red is what you need. <S> The top shelf parts come at a big price. <S> There can easily be a 30 to 40 percent price difference between the "Red" and the "Force" lines of components. <S> The high end cost can make them lighter but not necessarily more durable. <S> (See Bontragers Law /strong,light,cheap pick any two). <S> Some people claim the top line stuff also needs more frequent adjustment to maintain the quality shifts they are famous for. <A> If you're moving between Shimano and SRAM, the shifters and derailleurs all need to be purchased at the same time. <S> The cassette and chain can stay provided they're the right number of speeds, but I do have a strong preference for SRAM chains whenever possible. <S> That being said, if your bike is equipped with Tiagra, a better option would likely be sell it and buy something which shipped with Red anyway (or possibly buy a cheap donor bike from Nashbar/BikesDirect or similar with the Red components and strip it out, since the parts are individually quite expensive).
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With the release of the 11 speed groups you may be able to pick up some lightly used 10 speed parts at reasonable prices.
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What is this brown goop on my new bike frame? I'm building a single speed bike, and ordered parts from various different places. My EAI Bareknuckle frame got delivered this morning, and it looks great, except for this part of the fork, that has this dried brown goop on it. It doesn't look like rust, though it smells kinda metallic. I'm not a rust expert though. Or a frame/bike expert for that matter. Have you seen this before? How can I clean it off? Water didn't dissolve it. Not sure if using soap is a good idea. Pictures: Thanks! <Q> It can be difficult to remove from finished parts without damage to the paint. <S> If you can, scrape some of the heavy stuff off with something like a plastic knife. <S> Then I would try something like WD-40. <A> If I had to take my best guess <S> I'd say it's some sort of epoxy or resin. <S> Lord knows how it got there. <S> I would start by trying to get it off with rubbing alcohol. <S> That shouldn't do anything to the paint, and might take it off. <S> If it looks like it's helping, I'd feel free to soak the stuff for a while, it won't hurt. <S> If that doesn't work you may have to break out some meaner stuff, like acetone <S> (most Goo-Off products will be basically 100% acetone) or paint thinner. <S> both of those are really bad for your brain, though, so make sure you use it outside. <S> They're also really volatile, so don't blow yourself up--keep it away from flames (duh) or anything that might spark, including electric motors (fans, etc.). <A> That's how surface corrosion (homogeneous corrosion) looks after growing beside a paint coat. <S> I've seen several times that kind of corrosion in car panels (automotive engineer here) <S> If the frame is too new <S> I don't think the pitting has already covered the full thickness of the material. <A> As others have mentioned, it looks like a rust preventative such as Weigles Frame Saver. <S> It shouldn't hurt anything, but if you're set on removing it you might try a rag and some nail polish remover, acetone, xylene, toluene, or mineral spirits. <S> Take care that the solvent you choose doesn't dissolve the powder coat/paint on the fork! <S> (2) Don't apply so much solvent that it gets into the holes, as I'm pretty sure you want to keep the rust preventative there.
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You can see if a hair dryer will soften it without hurting the paint Dunno what your frame material is, but you can try cleaning it with isopropil alcohol, and then cover the area with some type of grease. It looks like cosmoline which is a waxy rust preventative. Two additional suggestions: (1) Make sure there isn't any dirt or grit that might damage the finish of the fork when you rub it off. If it doesn't soften it right away soak a rag and wrap it around the fork tips over night.
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Lightweight foldable shoes for road cycling I want to be able to use SPD-SL cleats and still be able to access pubs/cafe's normally. I'm really thinking of something that could be taken on a 75km club run and with that kind of distance I think a bag would be a bit onerous to carry. Cleats on the local slate floors cause upset to the proprietor and are probably a slipping risk. I am not willing to use a different form of clipless pedal. Possible solutions Cleat covers Foldable shoes I have never tried either of these before. Do other's have any experience of them? Are there any other suggestions to consider? <Q> I use some of these if I'm touring and want to travel light, I put them in my bag <S> but I reckon they could slip in to a jersey pocket <S> , I'll try after work today. <S> I've used cleat covers before and, though they protect the cleat, didn't feel they were a proper solution <S> - you still end up walking weirdly because the only contact point is the cleat. <A> [I use Look, so I'm in a similar boat.] <S> However, if you switch to SPD (which requires different pedals), there are plenty of shoes (and sandals) which have recessed cleats so you can walk around without damaging anything and wear all day without problems. <S> And a lot of people use plain ole' SPD on the road. <A> Cleat covers are fine <S> but there's no reason why a pair of road cleats with the rubber anti-slip bumpers still in place would scratch slate. <S> If you're using MTB SPD cleats then definitely they'll damage floors. <S> To be totally honest, if I'm concerned (for example one cafe has steep stairs to the bathroom) <S> I tend to just take the shoes off. <S> If the cafe is a regular stop, why not ask the owner if you can all leave some sandals or shower shoes in a bag at the cafe?
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If you're using SPD-SL, cleat covers or insertable seem to be the only "nice" ways to go.
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Suitable rear mech for Megarange cassettes I just bought an 11-34T 8 speed rear cassette and noticed that it is a Megarange cassette with a substantially large jump between the lowest and 2nd gears. Will this work with my existing Alivio rear mech or do I need to get a different one? (Such as in this question here ) <Q> It will probably work. <S> The one thing you need to look at is the length of your derailleur cage. <A> My existing rear derailleur (Shimano Alivio M410) was suitable to work with the largest 34T cog. <S> The B-screw (angle adjustment) on the derailleur will need to be tweaked to prevent rubbing of the cassette/jockey wheel/chain. <S> In my case the B-screw was turned almost all the way in, but it works great. <S> I have fairly small front chainrings, so the tensioning of the chain was not an issue. <S> (I was fitting a new chain at the time anyway) <A> One thing I have noticed about the mega range derailleurs is they all seem to have very large jockey wheels. <S> The megarange seem to run with 16-20 teeth vs 10-14 teeth. <S> It may be a cost saving issue or part of the design. <S> I am basing this on the small sample of bikes I have on hand. <S> If your Alivio has the smaller standard tooth count wheel it may work but be a little clunky going on to the big gog.
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Yes, it works. With that really large cog, you might have to adjust your chain length, and then your derailleur might not be long enough to properly tension the chain. The change between the 2nd-largest and the 'Mega' cog is actually smoother than I expected, despite the big jump.
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Tubeless conversion on schrader valve rims Situtation I have an old hardtail collecting dust. I occurred to me that a rigid fork, and some wide (i.e. >50 mm), slick tires would make it a pretty ideal commuter for me. Then I thought it'd be great the setup those wide, slick tires tubeless. Unfortunately, I just recalled that the rims on that bike are drilled for schrader valves. I had forgotten because when I bought the bike I immediately purchased the grommets necessary to use presta valves on the rim. I notice two things The first is that it doesn't appear the tubeless schrader valves are readily available ( http://www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=tubeless+valve ) The Stans conversion kit comes with tape with a valve already attached ( http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=1208 ) Question: Will leaving those grommets in place allow me to set up the rims tubeless, or am I stuck running tubes since the are rims drilled for schrader valves? <Q> I mean, put enough Stans in to the wheels, and you can run tubeless on just about any rim setup. <S> If you have non-tubeless tires, you may run in to an issue with the tires themselves being too porous, and that is hard to get around. <S> The rubber wedge/plug thing on the base of the Stans <S> valve stems is pretty wide, I bet it would work even without the grommet. <A> One way to solve your problem is by doing the ghetto tubeless method with the 20 inch tube. <S> The other method, with the gorilla tape should be possible as well by cutting a valve out of an old tube and leaving enough contact material with the tape. <S> http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday-Gorilla-Tape-Tubeless-Conversion.html <A> If the grommets worked with the tubes they should work with Stan's conversion kit. <S> The kit is really just a wheel side tube. <S> The kit is thicker rubber than most tubes. <S> Unless the grommet extends a long way on the inside <S> I doubt it would cause the kit not to seal. <S> The Stan's web site has a list of compatible tires. <S> Recommended Tires
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But I imagine that the combination of rim-tape, grommet, and Stans will be fine.
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Tire popping out of rim when inflating tube This is very similar to this question . When I fill my tubes up to about 85 psi the tire pops off the rim and the tub gets caught on the rim and blows up. I have gone through 4 tubes in two days at this point and the only thing that seems to help is to inflate them to about 60 psi. Even putting pressure on the tires so they seat correctly (not sure if that is the correct term, I am quite new to cycling) only works until I put weight on the bike, and then the tubes blow. For some info, I frankensteined a bike together out of used/old parts so my rims are quite old (although relatively true after ~8 hours of work) but the tires are falling apart. The rims are 27's (inches?) and there were really no options for newer ones at the place I put my bike together at, only 700's. Could replacing the tires fix this? I would like to get the tubes to around 90 psi since at 60 they are quite flat when riding. Edit: Some details on the tire, tube and rim. Rim: ~1 Inch wide at the top, ~25 1/2 inches in diameter I couldn't really figure out how to check the bead.Rim tape looks fine, it is some hardish plastic covering the spoke screws. Tire: See these images of the tire. Supposedly a 27 x 1 1/8 tire that holds 90psi. Not sure what else is helpful info other than the pictures of the deteriorating side walls (and the lip at the bottom that catches the bead) Tube: 700x18-23 27x1 48 mm presta valve. I can't find max pressure, but I am sure it is in excess of 90 psi. <Q> Three things to check: 1, Is the bead seated correctly. <S> It's pretty common to get tyres blowing off the rim if they're not seated correctly. <S> That said, this usually leads to an exploding tube rather than <S> the tyre just coming off2, As Daniel R Hicks said, are the rims so worn they're expanding?3, Check the rim for dings and warping as Malarky sort of says, but not just the area for the bead. <S> The pictures would make me think they're on their last legs. <S> I had a pair of 20+ year old ones recently that ended up in the bin as they just weren't reliable enough for me. <S> Some things aren't worth saving a few euros/pounds/dollars over, and the contact points on a bike are some of those things for me. <S> If the rims seem fine new tyres are where I'd go. <A> Would you really want to ride on these tires that are falling apart? <S> You need new tires. <S> You may have to order. <S> Biketiresdirect.com has 27s. <S> Make certain the rim has no defects that prevent the tire bead from holding. <S> Make certain the tires are seated all the way around the rim (pay particular attention to the area around the valve) and the tube is not caught under the bead. <A> I've had this issue with some inexpensive 27" replacement rims and some 27" tires (hard to get good 27" stuff these days!) <S> My parts were new. <S> If your tire is in poor condition, you should replace them...brakes and tires are the only parts of the bike that HAVE to work properly ALL THE TIME. <S> What I did to work-around this issue is inflate the tire slowly and when I saw it pop out of the seat, deflate and reseat it... <S> Repeat until tire got up to pressure. <S> Once mine were inflated fully, they would stay seated just fine.... <S> but if I let them leak down... had to be careful when I was inflating them... <S> This was usually only an issue the 1st time the tires were inflated after they were removed from the rim. <S> And replace the tires if they are bad. <S> Check the rim sidewall for thickness too. <S> If the rim is worn out, it should be destroyed and not re-used... <S> it'll get someone killed. <A> Are those non hook edged steel rims? <S> They can't keep high pressure tires on. <S> Get some hook edge rims or accept low pressures.
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You may have a bent rim Chances are, though, that the tyres are done.
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Rear index shifting not staying in middle gears I have replaced a chain (SRAM PC 830) and 7 speed freewheel (Shimano MF-HG37) on the back of my daily commuter bike about 300 miles/ 3 weeks ago with the same models. The old parts lasted me 4000 miles, and until recently, the new ones have been fine. Now I'm having issues of my chain not staying in "6" gear and jumping to 7 (the smallest). I can shift to and from it ok, just that it will jump in a few revs. All the other gears work fine. If I move the shifter a little bit it will go back, but within a few revs jumps right back down. I have played with the high and low set screws since I'm also swapping wheels frequently too. I had a axle break, switched to a backup wheel, went back to the repaired wheel, and then back to the backup now. Through all that everything worked fine until the last swap. The backup wheel is a identical replacement with the freewheel and tire transplanted. I tried to adjust the barrel nut along with the "b" screw. Both had no effects, but I didn't move them very far. I haven't found the time to try to clean the derailleur yet, but when I swapped the chain I gave the bike a good cleaning, wax, and lube bath. I'm worried that I missed something in the derailleur or it just got dirty since. Jockey wheels are clean and secure, but have 5k miles on them. Front derailleur selections also had no effect. The derailleur model is a Shimano Tourney found a 2008(ish) Schwinn High Timber with the gripshifters. Laid down 3k miles ago where the derailleur was scratched and banged up the limit screws but no effect on performance. <Q> Something to keep in mind <S> , it's not unusual for a SRAM chain to not play well with a Shimano cassette. <S> A lot of times you'll get lucky and the two will work well together <S> , I used to run SRAM chains with my Shimano cassettes all the time without much trouble. <S> But there are just some combinations that just cause problems, even intermittently from run to run. <S> Or, you said you gave it a lube bath <S> , I wonder if you managed to displace the grease inside of the derailleur. <S> When my rear derailleur just won't cooperate, I use my two favorite articles to troubleshoot and properly lubricate and adjust it. <S> Study these thoroughly and meticulously and you'll likely happen upon your solution: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-overhaul <A> Theoretically, this is a set once and forget it adjustment. <S> The B screw will keep the derailleur from rubbing on the cogs and should be set on the largest rear cog. <S> If you put in the same freewheel as before though, it also shouldn't change. <S> The indexing adjustment might need a bit of fiddling ( the barrel adjuster ). <S> In order of things to check: Did you bend the derailleur (cage/hanger)? <S> Did you size the chain <S> wrong? <S> Is the tension/friction in the shift cable too low or too high? <S> If all those have the answer of "No", you have to fiddle with adjustments (the indexing in particular). <S> Unfortunately, Tourney grade parts are infamous for not really staying in adjustment or being properly adjustable since they're so damn cheaply made. <S> As always, Sheldon and Park Tool have good resources. <A> I had this issue last week. <S> Have a look at your rear derailleur and check it can go through the whole range of movement. <S> Its possible that the spring has gone or the hanger for the jockey wheels has seized and won't move correctly. <S> If this is the case try some degreaser on it, dry and add lube.
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If you still have the problem it may be easiest to replace the derailleur itself and the cable used for shifting. The high and low limit screws don't affect the shifting between the cogs - they just tell the derailleur not to throw the chain into the spokes or out into the frame.
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Is it acceptable to cycle towards the centre of the lane on blind corners? Some context: I live near a very congested main road, and everyone goes through the villages whenever it is blocked. If I am cycling, I have a continuous stream of cars passing me, even if they can't see the road ahead. So to prevent them overtaking (more for their safety than mine) I pull out more towards the centre. I have seen that this answer says that it is okay to take the full lane when the lane isn't wide enough for a car to pass safely (to discourage dangerously close passing) But my situation isn't about close passing, it is about passing that is dangerous to others, and consequently could be dangerous to be me. Should I be "taking the lane" to stop people doing this, or is this not the right way to deal with it? Just for reference, this is the road I am riding along, the worst point is half way, there is a sharp left then right. <Q> Yes, you should absolutely be taking the lane, provided the car behind you will have time to slow down when you move to take the lane. <S> Passing too close, passing on a blind corner, passing that endangers others and yourself, these are all equally dangerous. <S> This sounds like a dangerous situation all around, I highly recommend you record your ride so if someone does hit you, you can make quick work of the insurance claim. <A> I'd say yes, definitely take the lane . <S> Proactive disarming of a hazardous situation is (almost) always the best way to go and taking the lane is often an effective tool. <S> In your situation described above, if a motorists attempts to pass you and then a car comes the other way the first thing they will do is swerve back on to the correct side or slam the brakes. <S> They won't think of/remember you in this moment <S> and you are unlikely to be able to do anything about it, it is for your own safety too. <S> I do this on the road all the time and acknowledge the driver when I do let them pass after the hazard <S> , I find a quick friendly wave or thumbs up generally washes away any frustration they may have accumulated in adding two or three seconds to their drive. <S> * <S> * <S> I also found it useful in the Alps <S> when I went, people often try to overtake on the hairpins and bends along the cliff-face, another example of a blind/difficult corners, so I ended up taking the lane in that situation too! <S> ** <S> In the event of feeling aggrieved the motorist will likely shout some nonsensical abuse, flip the bird, or even use their car to swipe at you. <S> The best approach is to just let them get on with it, slow down if you think they are likely to hit/swerve at you. <S> A GoPro or similar is a good way to provide evidence to police if you want to report someone for dangerous driving. <A> It's exactly the right way to deal with it. <S> If people passing you is dangerous for anyone, then you need to make it extremely inconvenient, and even illegal, for them to do so. <S> Once you're beyond the complex road that makes it necessary for you to take the lane, be a good fellow and get to the side of the road and let them by. <S> I've only very rarely encountered hostile reactions from drivers when I take a lane. <S> The vast majority realize why you're doing it and actually appreciate it. <S> " <S> Oh, look! <S> A predictable cyclist obeying the rules of the road! <S> What do you make of that, dear?" <S> "I don't know, never saw such a thing. <S> But at least I know what he's going to do next." <A> I actually get off a narrow sealed road, in good time, approaching either a blind corner, a blind crest, or a vehicle coming towards me when another vehicle is about to overtake me. <S> This way I am completely safe and not relying on the driver to actually see me in good time and slow down before hitting me. <S> I do not put my life in the hands of others. <S> I control my own destiny. <S> What if that driver was on drugs, was talking to a passenger, was very tired, day dreaming while driving, . <S> . . . !! <S> I have a good sized flat mirror. <S> (Hard to come by since most mirrors for bikes are quite small and are convex to make up for their size. ) <S> I check the mirror as I approach the hazard (as defined above.) <S> I decide in good time, by 'putting myself in the drivers seat' of the car coming from behind, when I have passed the 'critical point'. <S> That being the point that if I was still on the bitumen then the driver would not be able to easily overtake and be back on the correct side of the road well before the start of the hazard concerned. <S> And too many people, both riders and drivers, have a false idea that provided they get back to the correct side just before the start of the hazard <S> then they have been safe. <S> Of course they have overlooked the fact that they need to be able to get back by about 150m BEFORE the hazard, maybe more at higher speeds, because somewhere along their overtake another car could suddenly come out of the hazard traveling towards them at high speed. <S> And their reaction would be to save themselves and wipe out the cyclist at the same time! <S> I also use wider tyres than the regular racing slicks that so many recreational road cyclists use. <S> I use 28mm tyres. <S> Even when pumped up to around 100 psi they allow me to ride off the bitumen and onto the gravel verge reasonably safely. <S> But I do make sure I wipe off speed on the bitumen first. <S> And I must admit there is a certain amount of practice needed! <S> Otherwise you can skid and fall in this maneuver!
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Unfortunately though some motorists will take exception to a rider defending their position on the road and you should always be prepared for that.
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Titanium frame has a crack - advice needed I've found a Titanium bike frame on eBay. It's very cheap and the owner says that it has a very small crack on the seat tube where it connects to a bottom bracket. See in the image above: I've never gone for titanium frames. How bad is this damage, and what is likely to happen in the future - will it get worse? <Q> If you look at titanium frame bikes on the web you can see their warranties. <S> Most have very long or life time warranties that cover everything but crashes and deliberate damage to the frame. <S> So I would assume this frame was involved in a crash. <S> There are three types or cracks in titanium frames (from best to worst): <S> Weld crack seam crack (titanium comes in sheets that are bent into tubes and seam welded.) <S> Stress crack <S> (But still pricey.) <S> So without anymore information, I would say you have a crashed frame with frame failure. <S> It is in the worst possible place. <S> A repair will be expensive and may not even be possible. <S> The repair was also not covered under the frames original warranty. <S> After looking at the crack again, there is another possibility. <S> When you weld titanium you have to shield the metal with an inert gas as it cools. <S> Otherwise it can absorb O2 or N2 from the air. <S> If the titanium absorbs either gas it becomes brittle and will crack over time. <S> This crack is right near the BB at the seat of two major welds. <S> The tube would have been very hot there and if it was not properly shielded by argon during welding and cooling, it could have absorbed air during that period. <S> That effectively wrecks the titanium. <S> This type of problem can not be fixed. <S> (It should have been covered under warranty though.) <S> Sounds like a good frame to avoid no matter how cheap the price. <A> Am I looking at the right thing? <S> The little line running across the seat tube about 1cm above the bottom bracket? <S> It's hard to say, but personally I'm not sure that's a crack at all. <S> It looks more like a scratch. <S> I say that because: a) it looks shallow, and b) that is a really, really weird place for a crack to occur. <S> There are four types of stress ( <S> if I remember my solid mechanics correctly) that could cause a frame to crack: shear (picture gripping a pipe with your hands next to each other and pushing with one and pulling with the other), bending, torsion, or tension. <S> Compression wouldn't lead to a crack. <S> There's basically no way that you could apply enough shear force, bending force, or torsional force at that location on the frame to crack it (even a fatigue crack over time), so we'll discount those (plus, you'd expect to see other deformation from bending). <S> That leaves tension. <S> It is totally possible to apply a huge tensile load to a seat tube, for instance by coming down on the pedals really hard after a drop. <S> However, I would imagine that 999 times out of 1,000 it would fail at the welds, not in the middle of the tube like that. <S> I'm not saying you should buy the frame, but it might be worth asking the guy for more info. <A> I'm way late to this party, but in case anyone else wanders in, I'll say - based on countless postings of similar Ti-frame problems - that this and similar joined areas are common locations to have a crack on a titanium frame. <S> Gary E (above) already talked about the need to have an inert gas atmosphere when welding titanium or you will find that the titanium becomes brittle in the area that was heated by the welding process. <S> There is one other thing. <S> Welding sets up thermal stresses also, and unrelieved residual stresses further compromise the embrittled titanium. <S> This can be relieved to some extent by shot-peening (not media-blasting) <S> the work, or by heat-treating it in an inert gas atmosphere. <S> Finally, I would have no problem trusting a stress crack that had been repaired by welding, as long as I were certain that the weld was done by an expert. <S> Such a repair will restore ductility to the surrounding metal and result in a strong and dependable component. <S> Success rests entirely on the skill and professionalism of the welder, obviously. <A> It will get worse. <S> Buying a used frame is risky, generally, even if there are no visible problems. <S> It could be bent, which most people can't diagnose. <S> Titanium and aluminium aren't good materials for a frame, in spite of widespread use nowadays. <S> But they are cheap and sold for nearly the same price as a top steel frame would cost, which is much more difficult to make, in every aspect. <S> I hope you did not buy that nonsense.
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A stress crack may not be repairable at all, and I'm not sure I would trust it in any case on the BB. You can weld titanium (but you need an inert gas shield to prevent O2 & N2 absorption while the material cools). Seam and weld cracks are relatively easy to fix.
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How do I re-insert a chain pin that has been pushed completely out? While breaking the chain, I pushed the pin too far and pushed it out completely. Now the chain is too short. How do I re-insert this pin, or should I look for other options. <Q> What type of chain - Shimano have chain connector pins for exactly this task for many of their chains. <S> Note the pin must exactly match the chain. <S> If you have a length of the same chain (I always keep the left overs when I put ion a new chain) break the chain again and remake the chain with the leftovers. <S> I have (in desperation - bike shops 100km away, no spare chain parts), used a vice and pointy grips to do press the pin in - the repair was dodgy but got us on the road. <A> I always carry the cutoff from a new chain (or a few links of it) in my kit. <S> Take the chain apart at the next link down from where you lost the pin (being more careful this time) and then take two half-links from the cutoff and install them. <S> And, while you have that cutoff piece handy, do a trial to see how many turns of the crank it <S> it is to take the pin <S> almost all the way out, write down than number, and store it with the tool. <S> Or just use quick links. <A> Easiest way to put the pin back? <S> Pull the link apart just enough to set the pin from the inside. <S> Make sure one side is straight and tap it in with a hammer. <S> Flip it over and tap the other side in. <S> Can do it in about 30 seconds and no hootin' and hollerin' <A> In an emergency, you could always push out the pin of the next link (not fully, obiously) and reattach it where you removed the first pin. <S> You'd lose a link (and possibly a gear) <S> but you'd be able to ride home. <A> I just tackled one of these myself, so I thought I'd share my alternative experience. <S> Note that this might require you to reposition/turn the outer chain's legs so that you can access the the hole from straight up. <S> Then take a flat, metal surface (I used a dull bread knife) and place it on top of the pin positioned over the outer chain hole. <S> Since it's a flat area you are applying force on, you can really put some muscle into it. <S> For me, the pin slid in a bit within a few tries of repositioning. <S> From there on, as soon as it's a bit in, it's the traditional stuff.
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I am short on tools, so in absence of a decent pair of pliers/hammer, I put the pin inside the inner chain to hold it in place and positioned it on top of one of the outer chain's legs (resting on the ground or an elevated surface). The idea is just to apply a lot of pressure at as straight an angle as possible. Alternately, use a quick link or a new chain.
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Difference between wet and dry chain lube I was in a bike shop recently asking for dry lube, and the sales guy told me that the wet/dry distinction is just one that Finishline uses for their product lines, not an actual distinction between chain lubes in general. However, other bike store folks have told me that there is a difference, and that wet lube can be applied less frequently, but will tend to collect grit and sand more, while dry lube is less adhesive to that stuff, but must be reapplied more often. Are any of these right or close to right? <Q> Wet and Dry lube are pretty much universal terms, they're not constrained to one manufacturer. <S> Wet lube is quite sticky. <S> It will stick to your mech and is less likely to get washed off by rain. <S> The downside, because it is sticky, it can pick up crap from the road, as those guys said. <S> Dry lube is a much lighter lube. <S> It should keep your mech quite clean, the downside is that because it is that much lighter, it'll get washed off in wet conditions. <S> Where I am (UK) I tend to use dry lube in the summer and wet lube in the winter. <S> If I think I can get away with it, I'll lean toward dry lube ( <S> although I won't put dry lube on top of wet lube, I'm more likely to clean the chain first). <S> Incidentally if you look at a given manufacturer, they will likely have both wet and dry products, possibly others too. <S> All are optimised for certain conditions. <S> For example, the manufacturer White Lightning makes four lubes (described here ). <S> I use Epic (which is a dry-ish lube) and Wet. <A> Different lubes will have different characteristics with respect to durability - some will do better in wet or muddy environments while others may do better in dry or dusty environments. <S> First, note that chain maintenance is a matter of religious belief . <S> The other bike store people are correct in this case - dry lube is designed for bikes which operate in dry conditions (so they dry to something thin and waxy to prevent dust collection - normally these are something like wax or teflon or something suspended in alcohol or something that evaporates out), but does not work as well as their wet lube (which is just some grease/oil) in wet conditions. <S> The key thing is to lubricate well, and remove excess lubricant to minimize grime. <S> Generally, companies which produce more than one lubricant will market them based on their intended operating conditions (whether they work better than the others in a given operating condition has to be determined experimentally). <S> You can look at the back of the bottles to see what the manufacturer suggests. <S> The longevity of any lubricant is highly dependent on operating conditions, and the longevity of a chain is a function of how clean it is as well as how lubricated it is. <S> You may want to experiment with different lubes as to what works well for your riding conditions as well as invest in a chain cleaner such as the Park Tool GC2. <S> Generally though, wet lubes last longer than dry lubes but do attract dirt more easily. <S> Also, its Finishline presumably rather than Frontline (which makes flea+heartworm medicine for dogs). <A> Warning: <S> no cycling topic sparks such heated debate as chain maintenance. <S> Wet lubes go on wet and stay wet. <S> Basically oils, with various additives, ranging from thin & lightweight to thicker & heavier. <S> Apply to chain, wipe off excess, wipe chain after each ride. <S> Dry lubes go on wet, then the carrier dries leaving a dry chain. <S> These come in various formulas, many are wax based. <S> Apply to clean chain, let dry. <S> Most dry lubes require more frequent application than wet lubes and should be reapplied after a rainy ride.
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Wet lube is suitable for wet conditions, dry lube is suitable for dry conditions. As regards use, it really depends on where you live and your climate.
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Thinking of putting wider tires on intro Scattante w330...thoughts? I'm buying a used Scattante 44cm w330 with starter components and I'm fairly new to biking/commuting by bike. My commute to work is fairly short, but its through a busy downtown area. I'm not so comfortable balancing on these skinny tires, much less weaving my way through traffic on them (700x23)... Would it be plausible/wise for me to place wider tires on this bike? If so, what would you recommend? Maybe distance tires? I hear they are wider... Thanks in advance, (we were all noobs at one point, right?) ^.^ <Q> Oh yeah, definitely put some 28s on there. <S> They'll give you better traction, better handling ( especially on most commutes ), and more comfort. <S> Go for a nice, durable city tire. <S> Whatever you do, don't try to save money on tires, spend a few extra dollars on high quality tires <S> and you'll never look back. <S> Nice tires will last longer, perform better, and save you time and money by preventing flats. <S> If you buy cheap tires, you'll just end up spending even more money on tubes. <S> http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-sport-contact-tire-700c Edit: Try to make sure the tire you choose fits your frame, your local bike shop shouldn't have any trouble helping you with this. <A> Most road frames aren't going to take tires beyond 28mm. <S> There are exceptions. <S> Cyclocross bikes will take wider tires. <S> A 'cross bike makes a good commuter if it has mount points for fenders and a rack. <S> Although tire width is a personal preference, the wider road tires are usually better for commuting on city streets. <S> I run 35mm tires on my city bike. <S> The Scattante may end up being your fast bike. <S> Then you can buy a commuter bike. <S> Everyone should have more than one bike. <S> :) <A> Bigger tires means that you can run them at lower pressures while avoiding road hazard damage and increasing cushioning to give a better ride. <S> They may be a bit less responsive or feel slower than some thinner tires, but this will not matter on a commute. <S> Bigger tires also do better with heavier riders (23's require pretty high pressure for "heavy" riders to avoid pinch flats). <S> The balancing on a thin tire is a non-issue -- what you're probably having trouble with is the twitchier steering of the bike you're using compared to what you're used to (which is a function of the geometry of the bike). <S> It would be a good idea to move up from 23's, but not all frames can clear decently large tires these days -- I suspect a lot of newer road frames can clear a 25, but a 28 may be a stretch. <S> You need some clearance (at least 3 mm) from the frame/brake caliper to account for tire deflection and prevent rubbing of the tire on the frame. <S> I doubt newer non-cross/touring bikes/commuter/etc. will have tire clearance for a 32. <S> This is especially true if you have fenders on the bike (which most wet weather commuters will want, but most non-cross/touring/commuter bikes don't have room for). <S> Look for a tire with a kevlar belt for puncture protection, and read some reviews on comfort and durability. <S> For road use, you don't really want tread patterns (you want a smooth tire). <S> Either measure the actual size of the tire you have on now and then see if a 25 or 28 will likely clear the brakes, or better yet, go to a bike shop <S> so you won't have to guess on what size tire will clear the brakes <S> and you'll get a tire which works well for most people in the area. <S> For the reason of clearance (and the fact that we generally don't do product recommendations on this site) which has to be measured, I don't want to recommend a specific tire. <S> Another issue is that tires are sometimes mislabeled in sizing (despite Sheldon's claims that this has abated, it is still there). <A> Basically, you can run any width of tire that can safely clear the brakes and frame and which is not "too wide" for the rim. <S> When considering brake/frame clearance you need to understand that a "wider" tire will not only be wider but "taller", so make sure that the outer circumference of the tire will not rub against the frame or the brake pivot (in the case of caliper brakes). <S> And if the new tires have a deeper tread than the old ones, account for that as well. <S> What's "too wide" for a rim is hard to say -- there are no rigid rules. <S> My rims are about 20mm, yet I run 45mm tires (and this is the way it came from the manufacturer). <S> Your rims also look to be about 20mm, so rim width is likely not an issue for you -- you could easily run 35mm tires on them (if you have the frame clearance). <S> It may be necessary to move the brake pads a little lower (or have a bike shop do it) to eliminate potential rubbing. <S> I'd suggest seeing if a 28 or 32 will fit.
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When you install wider tires, be sure to carefully check the brake pads to assure they do not rub against the side of the tire at all , when brakes are being applied (since this will eventually wear a hole in the tire -- ask me how I know). Note that also you don't want to put a narrow tire on a wide rim or vice versa , but this is likely something you won't encounter due to clearance issues.
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Why are my Shimano R540 SPD SL Road Pedals incredibly stiff to clip out of? I'm new to clip less riding. I just purchased and installed Shimano R540 SPD SL Road Pedals for my bike. I also got Shimano R064 SPD SL Road Shoes. I have been practising clipping in and out indoors in the hallway using the walls either side to balance myself whilst on the bike. I can clip in without too much difficulty, but find it extremely tough to clip out (even with the tension set to the lowest setting). I found that I am twisting and then almost yanking the shoes out of the pedals. I'm pretty sure this isn't how it is meant to be. If I attempted this on the road, I would fall flat on my face. I have sprayed some lubricant on the pedals in the hope that they loosen overnight. But other than that I've been stumped as to what else I could do. Appreciate any tips, helpful suggestions and advice on the matter. Thanks <Q> If you have the tension adjusted all the way down they should clip out easily. <S> Two things to check: Is the cleat tight on the shoe? <S> If it can rotate at all, you won't be able to clip out. <S> Are you rotating your foot outwards to unclip? <S> When I first got my clipless I tried to rotate in, and that doesn't work too well. <A> I spent the last few days spraying lubricant on the pedals and clipping in and out of the pedals on a stationary bike whilst leaning against a wall. <S> The pedals did gradually become loose but were still too stiff for my liking. <S> Nonetheless I ventured out to my local park wearing one normal trainer and one cycling shoe on the other foot. <S> This allowed me to practice clipping in and out using one foot whilst the other foot wasn't clipped in which was very reassuring. <S> I did one lap of the park without any problems and then wore cycling shoes on both feet. <S> I found that clipping out seemed easier on a slow moving bike than when I was clipping out on a stationary bike. <A> SPD-SL is harder to clip out of than SPD (MTB style), it's just a fact of how it was designed. <S> It improves slightly with time but it will never be as easy as SPD.
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I also found that when my foot was at the bottom of the pedal stroke, it made it immensely easier to clip out.
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Chain slipping on middle chainring I have recently replaced the chain and the cassette. Previous chain never slipped. I never had any problems with it at all. But I have made about 10 000 km on it and the wear was beyound any limits, so friends and guys in the bike service recommended replacing both chain and the cassette. I did a lot of reading and I know that chain and the cassette wear together. So I got chain and the cassette replaced. It is a 9 speed cassette. I have asked to replace it with a little lower gear ratio. Guys in the workshop also indexed the derailleur for me. Since I collected my bike the chain slips terribly every time I stand up on the pedals. Sometimes it also slips when I apply enough pressure even while seated. But standing up is a definite slip. I already have few bruises from falling down on the frame. I had assumption about chain being too long, but is seems to be just about ok. I have also figured out that the chain never slips if it is on the lowest or the highest chainring. It only happens with the middle chainring. As I have said before - it never happened before with the old chain/cassette. Now I have tried to stand up and pedal very hard in all gears on low and high chainrings. Never got a single slip in about half an hour of trying. Changed back to the middle chainring - it slips in every gear from 1 to 9 when enough torque is applied. So the question is: can it be that chain is slipping at the chainring? Do chains ever slip at the chainring at all? I have never heard of anything like that. Is there a simple way to test it in order to be sure that the chainring is the root cause? I really don't want to blame it on the chainring and get it replaced just to figure out that the problem never went away. <Q> I expect that after 10,000 km your chainring also needs to be replaced (frankly, I find it astonishing that you made it that far without replacing anything else. <S> That's amazing.). <S> Am <S> I correct in guessing that you spend most of your time in your middle chainring? <S> If so, it will be significantly more worn than your large or small rings, which would explain why you're only experiencing slippage in that ring. <S> It should be very easy to tell if it needs to be replaced--either take it to your shop and have them look at it, or look at it yourself. <S> Worn chainrings will show a characteristic "shark fin" on the teeth if they're worn too badly. <A> Cogs and chains "wear together" (regardless of whether they are front rings or rear sprockets). <S> The old chain does not slip on the ring, because the old chain's rollers are worn down. <S> They have an overall smaller diameter than the rollers of a new chain, and also a different shape: new rollers are cylinders, but worn ones look like small pulleys, they have little "waist", like "inverse doughtnuts". <S> Because the old rollers are smaller, they can catch the worn teeth of the old ring better than the fat rollers of the brand new chain. <S> Smaller wheels "catch" irregularities more easily: think about how a suitcase wheel can get stuck between a floor and elevator cabin, whereas a much larger baby stroller wheel will not. <S> Another effect is that if there is some so-called "stretch" in the worn chain (elongation due to wearing of the link pins), it affects how it meshes with the teeth. <S> Each successive roller is a little farther than it should be, which places it more into the deepest part of the valley after the next tooth. <S> Lastly, possibly due to the wear profile on the rollers (the aforementioned "waist") it may be the case that they "mate" better with the worn teeth, which have the opposite curvature. <S> The bicycle shop probably didn't recommend a change of rings because rings can last longer than cassettes. <S> It is not unheard of to be able to change chain and cassette several times before having to do anything with the rings. <S> A guess is no substitute for inspection, however, not to mention basic testing. <S> Maybe they just glanced at the largest ring, judged it to be okay, and neglected to take a look at the middle and smallest one, thinking they are used less. <A> Yes a new chain can skip in either an old chain ring or old cassette. <S> The length between chain lengths needs to match. <S> So the old chain matched up to the old ring. <S> The new chain does not match up with the old chain ring. <S> I suspect the middle chain ring looks worn. <S> If so for sure time to replace it. <S> What do I need to know to buy new chainrings for my crankset?
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Though, overall, a stretched chain doesn't fit the ring, over a short section of where you are applying tension to the chain, it can mesh better with the worn teeth due to the stretch.
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Replacement compatability for Shimano Mountain LX Chainring and or Crankset I need to replace Shimano Mountain LX Biopace Chainrings with 48/38/28 110 bcd and am having difficulty finding replacement chainrings, particularly the center chainring 38T. It appears Mountain LX is rare and I would like to know what other Shimano (Deore) or other chainrings or complete cranksets are compatible. <Q> You cannot replace Biopace unless you find some antiques. <S> Biopace ended 20 years ago. <S> Other chainrings are all compatible if the BCD is correct. <S> The only issue is the ramps or pins that are meant to improve shifting performance. <S> The manufacturer will always tell you to match everything up exactly but that is their sales pitch. <S> Realistically having something ramped on the middle ring is a good idea and maybe on the big ring too. <S> Ramps on a granny (smallest) ring don't make any difference. <S> If you are really worried about compatibility get something similar (XT, STX, Deore...) with ramps that is from Shimano and you will be just fine. <S> Any square taper crankset which allows clearance for the frame and similar chainline will work fine. <S> Actually buying a complete crankset with all the rings included is a lot cheaper than buying individual rings. <S> The extreme example is a low end shimano riveted crankset for less than $40 vs the typical budget of $1/tooth for chainrings. <A> TA makes a 38t 110 bcd chainring. <S> For whatever reason, it's generally easier to find odd size parts on the European Web sites. <S> Wiggle is generally a good source. <S> http://www.wiggle.com/ta-110-pcd-zephyr-mtb-middle-chainring/ <S> Vuelta chainrings are generally more easily available in the USA, but aren't as nice as the TA ones. <S> http://www.bicycleroots.com/vuelta-chainring-38t-110bcd-6061-silver.html <S> If you swap the 38t for a 36t, then you should have no problem finding standard round replacement rings. <S> Those old Deore cranks are pretty nice, just upgrade itwith a new set of rings. <S> It's absolutely no problem to use 9spd chainrings on those cranks with 7 or 8 spd chain. <A> However, you can sometimes find them on eBay (listing claims Biopace, but theres no picture). <S> As for replacement cranksets, you have just a plain old JIS square taper bottom bracket. <S> So if you wanted a new crankset, match it to that type of bottom bracket. <S> They're still made at the mid-lower levels of components (e.g. Shimano Alivio M430). <S> Or you could switch the BB with another of appropriate size and get some other crankset.
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Some people have stuck normal chainrings on a biopace crankset though (just need to match the BCD and number of bolts), and this is a significantly cheaper option. Unfortunately, Biopace components haven't been made for years (and other non-round chainrings aren't the same (e.g. Sugino Cycloid, Osymmetric)) and they've become somewhat rare.
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Halfords just replaced my chainset and it is a 10 speed one, but my cassette is 8 speed. Am I ok? Last week my chainset was replaced (in warranty) and I just found out that the chainset is 10 speed (FSA Vero) but my rear cassette (+Claris gears and shifters) is 8 speed. I want to know if I will be fine. The bike is Carerra TDF Limited Edition 2012 model. <Q> In my experience this is a non-issue. <S> The only difference between 8,9,10 speed chains is the exterior width not the interior. <S> That matters a lot on the rear cassette, but not much if at all on the front. <S> From this article the difference in the exterior width of 8spd chain vs 10 spd is 0.9mm. <S> On the front that just doesn't make any signficant difference. <S> If you had a triple crankset and really short chainstays, you might run into some issues, but with a double and your bike, it should just work. <S> then I wouldn't worry about it. <S> At this point insisting on an 8spd replacement will only get you a very low quality crankset. <A> You're fine with this '10 speed crankset'. <A> Mostly, the different designations are there to encourage whole component group sales. <S> As a general rule (not an absolute one), you can mix and match derailleurs and chainrings with other parts, but only with a one speed difference and with the other parts being the lesser speed. <S> Realize that there is usually a difference in chain width <S> , so there are potential exceptions to this rule.
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In other words, 8 speed chain, shifter, and cassette (these three must match except for 6-8 speeds) are ok with 9 speed elsewhere, but not 10. I'd say take the bike for a test ride and if you're happy with the way the front derailler shifts and it is capable of cross-chaining The distinction of speeds especially in the front is primarily for marketing.
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What are the advantages of a building an electric bike from a kit vs. prebuilt I'm trying to decide on what would be the best option for me for my first electric bike. I need a way to get around, and as I live on a hill where I will have to manage a fairly steep incline coming and going I am wondering what kind of bike I should get. There is a bike on Craigslist right now with a 36V 12amp battery and 500-750Watt motor, but as it is a Huffy bike I am pretty sure it is a kit build. They are asking 700. -- My other option is the Kickstarter kit by Barak Electric ( https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1354698863/barak-electric-bicycle-conversion-kit-electrify-yo ) that has a 500 watt motor and 36V 10amph battery, and as I already have a mountain bike laying around I could install it myself and it would cost 655. I have no idea what they would be charging in a couple years when the Lithium batteries die for replacements, but I'm sure I could figure that out then. I don't have a ton of money, so going to a bike shop isn't really an option even though I would love the security of being able to return it if it doesn't work. I was looking into the Currie Electric bikes as they seem quite reasonable, but it doesn't look as though they will have enough power to get me anywhere with their small wattage and SLA batteries (not to mention to upgrade to Lithium with Currie is basically the price of the bike!) Any advice would be greatly appreciated! <Q> First, check your local laws. <S> As others have mentionend, in some countries (EU), maximum power for an electric bike is 250W. Go beyond that and the vehicle will be considered a moped and will need license, insurance and and license plates. <S> Your local laws might also require an assist-only option for your bike to be considered an e-bike. <S> That means usually a pedal sensor, and those can be difficult to install especially with exotic or outdated bottom brackets. <S> Selecting a kit is not necessarily easy. <S> If you're going to front mounted motor, check that brake type is compatible (disc or v-brake) with the kit and that fork spacing is suitable. <S> Kits can be had cheap, but installing them takes time, effort and experience with bike mechanics. <S> If you got all three, go for it. <S> If you need to get up and running quickly, an entry-level e-bike is probably better option. <A> I have tried two ebikes before and to be perfectly honest - they are very poor uphill - almost any hill. <S> The motors are too weak in my view and here the laws won't allow you to ride a bicycle with a motor that has more than 200 watts of power without a motorbikes license (Australia - except QLD).The best motorised bikes <S> I think are the petrol ones such as the common Moped. <S> Much more power and you hardly have to provide a down pedal to push it along. <A> I am coming at this from the perspective of converting a bike I have, in my case <S> my Bacchetta Giro 20 ATT recumbent bike [link to my blog documenting my build experience] but before I decided to go down this path I did look at off the shelf e-bikes and for me I couldn't find a reasonably specified [in terms of bicycle components] e-bike at a reasonable or comparable price so as I had the existing bike I decided to go the conversion path. <S> mid-drive [750 watts] with a 48V battery. <S> With regards to your Craiglist bike, I wouldn't be considering a 36V battery to power a 750 watt motor as being an ideal option. <S> From what I understand 48V is a better option with the more powerful motor. <S> Endless-Sphere <S> whilst pretty full-on is worth a visit to get some idea about conversion options. <A> From personal experience (Xtracycle's EdgeRunner), if you go DIY or pre-selected kit, make sure you budget for companion upgrades: <S> Factor in cargo as well <S> (you'd be surprised how much MORE you're likely to haul around if the effort is lower). <S> The motor drive/pedal assist will guarantee higher velocities (more like 20+mph vs 10-15mph). <S> Both will contribute to a much harsher environment for your drive train, braking surfaces, and wheels. <S> My upgrade path in order of conservative importance: <S> A reliable and trust-worthy brake system is essential. <S> Cable-actuated calipers with a correctly sized rotor (for total ride weight) on a quality disc hub is the bare minimum. <S> If within budget, get hydraulic brakes. <S> Front drive-train including shifter, crankset and chainrings, and derailleur <S> : with battery assist, you spend a lot of time in high gear - make sure it can safely handle the torque you will be dishing out. <S> Rear drive-train - shifter, cassette and derailleur: <S> same reasons as above Rear brake system - if not upgraded at the same time, this is where I would place your dollars last.
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E-bike kit should come with brake levers with a cut-off switch so the motor stops pushing immediately when braking (problem with some e-bikes). Installation is generally pretty straight forward and really quite quick, the kit is not to badly priced and the motor by all reports is a good performer. Based on my experience which was more involved because of the recumbent, if I was considering doing this again I would look for a suitable source bike [either second hand or new with a 68 mm bottom bracket and space to take a frame battery] and then consider installing a Bafang BBS02 Battery, motor, controller will add significant weight to the bicycle.
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What are my options for replacing a Shimano Hollowtech II BB? I have had a 'Deore' equipped mountain bike for 3-4 months now. However, there is grinding noise from the area of the cranks and I suspect the bottom bracket. On a local MTB forum I heard that Deore BB's last exactly that long. So I am worried about replacing the part with an exact duplicate (for fear of short service life). Do more expensive Shimano groupsets use the exact same BB or is it different for each? Do they last longer? Is it normal for a Deore BB to fail after such a short time? <Q> There are a number of options for replacing a Hollowtech II BB (whilst still retaining the Shimano cranks). <S> The Deore bb is a cheap bb, higher Shimano levels should last better. <S> Anecdotally I've heard premium <S> Bb's last years while it's not unusual to use a Shimano BB a season. <S> The options are: <S> Shimano - Shimano has a number of different levels. <S> BB51 deore level, BB70 SLX/XT and BB93 XTR <S> Other similar brands - Raceface X-type is compatible Premium brands - Hope, Chris King and others <S> If you kill many bottom bearings it's good to understand why and address this. <S> Water retention in the shell is a big issue if you ride in wet areas as is washing the grease out with a pressure washer. <S> There are Bb's that have water drains built into the cups for drainage <S> or you can drill a hole in your Bb shell if this is a real issue for you. <S> Sealed bearings offer better water protection. <S> End of the day <S> it's really a value choice, if you go through a lot of Bbs you should consider a premium one. <A> I would say you've been unlucky to have it fail ( <S> if it is definitely the BB that is the issue) in a short space of time. <S> I'd ask for it to be replaced under warranty if it's only a few months old. <S> More or less each groupset has <S> it's own BB. <S> Reality is, they don't do much <S> but if you're unlucky and get a bad one then they'll creak, grind, clunk etc and make you aware that's something's not well. <S> Compared to other parts of a groupset, they're one of the cheaper parts and straightforward to replace, particularly the Hollowtech II. <S> The more expensive models are typically a bit lighter and have a different ball-bearing design/material. <S> I've had my Stumpjumper FSR for six years now <S> and I've replaced the BB twice. <S> The XT model has worked well for me. <S> I've ridden in a very wet and muddy England, Wales and Scotland; and this BB has met the task admirably. <A> BB51 and BB70 are interchangeable. <S> The hole is the same, they both fit perfectly. <S> Unfortunately mine BB51 is giving out noises after 0.5 years, so I guess this is common. <S> Before that I had BB70 <S> and it lasted thousands of miles. <A> I have ridden thousands of miles on the original Shimano sealed square taper units, road and MTB, and never had one fail. <S> Early FSA external bearing crank, garbage; same with the Enduro ceramic scam, so poorly made the bearing was not able to spin freely just from press fitting into the external cup, using their cup and their tool. <S> If you get worried, you can pry out the bearing seal, clean and re-lube with good grease and go again. <S> MT800 is the sealed mountain bike version as well. <S> One caveat, is that all of these require the frame actually have a proper facing tool run before installing, as external cups are awfully sensitive to the outside BB <S> faces being parallel. <S> The old integrated square taper units were not, as they contained both bearings in a single sealed can that threaded into just one side of the bottom bracket. <S> If you are dealing with any newer pressfit type, good luck.
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Hacks - replacing and upgrading the bearings while retaining the Shimano cups. Shimano Ultegra was an instant improvement, works after several years and am going to try the newest sealed upgrade - at $25-35, there is zero justification to waste $$$$$ on any other brand. You can get higher-end BBs (XT, XTR).
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How to destroy a LOOK pedal as it won't come off anyway I've tried everything, from brute force, WD40 overnight, heat from a gas torch (trying not to damage the carbon crank itself), to using an extended arm for extra force. Nothing will remove this darn pedal! The 8mm hex hole is now slipping so there is no more grip. Even the alloy wrench started to bend! Ok, here is the low down. Colnago C40 frame with Campagnolo Record Ultra Torque carbon cranks. Left pedal comes off easy, but the right drive pedal is fooked! Both pedals are LOOK Classics. Both were put on 2 years ago with grease, so they should have been easy to unwind. I suspect I annoyed someone on the bunch races and he went over and over tightened the pedal in vengeance! Bastard! I have an idea who it was too! Anyway, the question is - how do I kill it!? I am thinking nice clean fine metal blade on a hack-saw, cut pedal off, then drill middle outwards and hopefully it will unscrew itself without unscrewing the thread attached to the crank! Any other suggestions? Thanks <Q> Heating the pedal is not going to help here. <S> Cool the pedal might. <S> But if the hex is stripped too late. <S> Use penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench over WD40 for this. <S> I would have soaked it two days in penetrating oil before I went brute force. <S> The risk of brute force is you that you strip out the crank. <S> Use a drill press as it is really hard to center by hand. <S> If you get the bit big enough it will fracture the pedal axle. <S> But you don't want the bit big enough to scar the crank. <A> Unless the pedals have bonded to the thread in the cranks, a longer lever is usually the way. <S> As that seems to have failed, I'd get the cranks off, pop them in a vice and drill the cranks out. <A> You say "The 8mm hex hole is now slipping so there is no more grip. <S> "So <S> at this point you're trying to save the crank set. <S> Depending on the age of the bike the bottom bracket may be incompatible with newer crank sets, so it may be fairly important to you to salvage the crank set. <S> If you take the crank to a machine shop you will likely pay more than the cost of a better crank set to remove the pedal, so I would not consider that a good option. <S> The right (passenger side) <S> crank comes off by turning the pedal counter-clockwise when standing on the right (passenger side) of the bike. <S> Note that if your pedals use Allen wrenches, you're probably standing on the left (driver side) of your bike when trying to remove the pedal, and that will mean that you need to turn clockwise to remove the pedal. <S> With that in mind, easy outs or drilling out the pedal are going to be further tightening it. <S> If you were previously turning the wrong way then there is hope that the the Allen won't be sheered for turning the right way. <S> I've had luck placing a piece of paper over the Allen hole and then hammering the Allen in such that the paper helps to form the original Allen socket. <S> That's work one time for me. <S> Beyond that you'll need to drill a hole through the body of the pedal, say screwdriver size, insert a screwdriver and twist it off that way. <S> In any case you'll want to remove the crank and set it in a vise. <S> And hose that bolt down with penetrating oil. <S> You've only got .67 shot at this so make it good.
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I would see if you can get the pedal part of the pedal off and have enough of the axle to grab on to with a pipe wrench. Soak it for 2 days in penetrating oil before you go at it with a pipe wrench. If you were previously turning the right way, your options are very limited, you can try hammering a Torx of slightly larger size into the Allen hole.
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Is front-suspension a false-economy for cheaper bikes? I'm a 30 year old male looking to purchase my first non-department store bike. I haven't biked in more than a couple years. My use-case is 90% asphalt (inner-city, occasional low-speed highway) and ~10% trail. Trails would typically be flat, straight, with few serious bumps. The bike could see very occasional heavier use. I've seen several arguments against the use of front suspension forks on Hybrid bikes in the $0-$500 range, with arguments levied against them including: They lack lock-out at this price point, making city/uphill travel more difficult. They add weight to the frame. They limit speed. They require maintenance. Its another moving part that could fail. They're ultimately unnecessary for this use-case. Of these arguments, speed is probably the one that I can most easily disregard, as I am not looking for high top-end speed. On the other hand, if a suspension fork at worst won't hinder me, I would see no real point in avoiding purchasing one. <Q> Benefits of suspension forks (city/gravel road use): <S> Remove chatter from bumpy roads Take the jar out of major bumps Better traction <S> Drawbacks of suspension forks: <S> A bike with suspension (all else being equal) will hit more holes and hit them harder. <S> It will also climb like a pig and accelerate poorly. <S> You will learn much better technique when riding without suspension. <S> Things like hoping curbs and avoiding potholes become more important but also easier. <S> The bike will give you clearer feedback. <S> Make the entire bike feel spongy and sap your energy. <S> Suspension dives under braking, making the bike perform as if it had a steeper head tube. <S> This causes more twitchy handling at a poor time. <S> On cheaper models, behaves more like a pogo stick that bounces. <S> This may actually make bumps more extreme. <S> May not be adjusted to your weight. <S> If you are lighter, it will act very much like a rigid fork. <S> If you are heavier, it will be permanently compressed and not doing you any favours. <S> Service - City bikes can get many hours on them between service. <S> Some forks require servicing every 100 hours of riding. <S> The cheap forks that will come on a cheaper bike may not require this level of service (many are not serviceable) but still something to consider. <S> Simplicity. <S> If you have a suspension fork you risk: Paying more for your entire bike Trading better components for cheaper ones to offset the suspension cost <S> Having a substantially heavier bike <S> Other options: Putting wider tires on a bike, or buying a bike that can accommodate wider tires is in my opinion always a better option (for a city bike). <S> This allows you to adapt your bike to different conditions and change it cheaply when you want to. <S> It is possible to remove a suspension fork but that is difficult/expensive. <S> See this question I asked about swapping out a suspension fork. <A> Typically forks on a cheap bike will be undamped, heavy and in general not terribly efficient. <S> All bike components can break so I wouldn't just assume because it's expensive it will last. <S> For occasional offroad use, I'd get something with a rigid fork because (as arne mentioned), the other parts are likely to be better but also because the rigid fork will be lighter than the suspension fork. <S> That said, they also won't be as easy to find as most shops will sell less of them therefore are less likely to stock them as most people assume suspension = better. <S> However, that's just my opinion. <S> If I were you <S> I'd take a few test rides and see what feels right to you. <S> This last sentence is my real answer ;) <A> I would view front suspension as a nice comfort option for your use-case, particularly in cities with speed bumps, potholes etc. <S> Fully rigid frames, particularly aluminum ones which is what you'd likely get in your price range can be pretty unforgiving and while fat tyres help a bit, front suspension makes a bigger difference. <S> Given that you don't plan to do serious off-road riding <S> I wouldn't say that you should avoid front suspension bikes like the plague but you definitely don't need <S> it certainly shouldn't sacrifice other things like proper gear controls to get it <S> (avoid grip-shifters like the plague instead). <S> Don't forget that second hand hard-tail XC mountain bikes are just a tyre swap away from becoming decent hybrids which is what I would recommend for under $500 <A> For what you're talking about I would avoid front suspension, partly because you don't need it however good it might be (and there is a downside IMO) and partly because nothing you'd get at that price would be very good anyway. <S> Obviously how much this last bit bothers you would be a personal thing though! <A> Some points that have not come up <S> I think riding a non-suspension bike is more fun <S> It is you and the road On the trails you need to pick a line and use technique <S> Most tricks are easier on a non-suspension You have something solid to push off from and lighter Hop <S> both wheels up a curb is easier on a non-suspension <S> So on the ruff stuff you are a little slower fixed. <S> But you are going slower and fall softer. <S> You are learning technique. <S> And you are faster when it is not ruff. <S> As for comfort I don't think a cheap shock is not more comfortable on the road. <S> On a smooth road they just absorb part of the pedal action and to me the bounce is annoying. <S> I will take a size bigger tire at a lower pressure with carbon fiber over a shock. <S> Even on pure trail I went from an old suspension fork to a carbon fiber and tubeless. <S> Went a size up on tires and lower pressure. <S> I like that set up better than the old suspension fork. <S> I could have spent that same money on a nice fork but there are very very few times on the trail <S> I would rather have suspension and never on the street. <S> For sure I have learned more technique by riding rigid.
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Obvious downsides of unnecessary suspension are weight, money that's gone into it that could have gone into something more beneficial on the bike, and more stuff to go wrong. Entire bike is heavier, leading to a less agile bike. The best thing to do when trying to choose a new bike is to test ride as many as you can and see which ones you like. Maybe less obvious is some sponginess (even if you had a fork with a lockout) which means that some of the energy you are putting in is going into compressing the fork instead of moving you forward.
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What sort of bicycle helmet gives me better speed? I am working to improve my segment times on Strava riding 10km to/from work. My average speed is 32 kmph, and over short segments (1km) I can set avg speed 44 kmph / max 49. Over the last year I have invested in a new bike and bike shoes, and now I leave a week's supply of clothes in advance in my work locker so that I can ride without a backpack - all of these improved my strava times. Now, I am wondering if my "standard" bike helmet is a source of wind resistance that can be improved. Is there a sort of bike helmet that is more aerodynamic? For example, a tempo helmet, or a helmet that doesn't have the "cooling" holes? What features and considerations should I look for when buying a helmet, given I am most interested in riding faster. CheersViking Steve. <Q> I think this is kind of a non-question. <S> You want the helmet that rides the fastest? <S> This seems to imply that you either wear a regular-design lid (albeit one which is very light, very ventilated, and probably very expensive). <S> Or, you go for a time-trial helmet. <S> I know some team helmets used to be made by Giro (as I bought one, Ionos springs to mind, but I'n not 100%). <S> This was a couple of years ago, I would assume it is still the case. <S> As for the exact model, just look at the top of the range. <S> At the start of this year's Tour de France, a bike shop I follow on Facebook ran a competition to win a Team Sky helmet - manufactured by Kask. <S> So there's two manufacturers to give you a start. <S> As regards TT helmets, when I watch time trials a lot of the riders seem to wear Specialized lids, not just the Specialized team. <S> So they might be a good place to start looking. <S> I presume you realise (and accept) that for this kind of top-notch quality, you will pay. <A> Aerodynamics of a helmet cannot be considered in isolation but rather how it affects aerodynamics when on the rider. <S> The fastest helmet choice for one rider won't necessarily be the fastest for another, it's quite an individual thing. <S> I've done many, many aero tests of helmets on rider, and am often surprised at the combination that proves best. <S> In general I wouldn't advise using what <S> a pro uses specifically <S> - they ride / wear what their sponsors require them to, not necessarily what's optimal. <S> Instead perhaps note what they use as a guide for options to consider. <S> If this is riding on roads / commute, then functional considerations need to factor in. <S> Comfort, ventilation for cooling, being able to hear road traffic, safety in case of accident (TT helmets probably are not ideal in that respect). <S> Of course there are many other ways to gain improved aerodynamics and speed. <S> Tight fitting bike clothes, nothing loose or flapping, shaving exposed skin, improving aerodynamic position on the bike, use of aero bike components, better wheels and tyres, and of course training to improve power output. <A> Giro Air Attack is a good example. <S> There are even some pro riders using them in TT stages.
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There are now "sprinters" helmets that are bit in between TT helmets and regular bike helmets. For anything "fastest", either components or kit, just look at what the professional riders are using.
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Can double chainrings be used with a clutch-type rear derailleur? I've been reading up on Sram's CX1 1x11 cyclocross-specific group . It hinges on two technologies to minimize the potential for dropped-chains/chainslap. The CX1 clutch rear-derailleur keeps the chain in tension, while the wide-narrow single chainring resists lateral movement. I am curious if there's any possibility to leverage the benefit of the clutch rear derailleur for chain stability, but still use a standard double-ring crankset? <Q> This does not work in the specific case of a Sram CX1 rear derailleur, or the case of any other X-Horizon™ mechanisms. <S> I purchased the CX1 derailleur and attempted with a 46/39 front chainring combo. <S> The CX1 RD allows the front shift to occur, but has no tolerance for changes in chain length ( e.g. front shifting ). <S> The change in chainring size impacts the upper-pulley distance from the cassette cogs. <S> Adjusting the B-limit for one chainring size results in a bad configuration with another chainring size. <A> Yep, I've been using such setup for an year now, on my MTB (2x10). <S> See the "Technologies" tab on SRAM's page for X9 RD Type 2 . <S> The equivalent technology by Shimano is called Shadow+ <S> (note the +). <S> When purchasing an RD, on can notice, that the price difference between having or not having the relevant technology is relatively small compared to the price of the RD. <S> On the other hand, I believe that the unique technology in SRAM's 1x11 grouppie is the shape of the chainring teeth . <S> It is claimed to make the use of a chain guide unnecessary. <A> You wanted to mod a system that depends in part on the use of wide-narrow chains and chainrings. <S> Assuming you have wide-narrow chainrings, when you front shift <S> the narrow-wide chain may not find the right width tooth on the chainring and will either slip or derail. <S> At best it works slightly crappily, at worst it’ll skip and derail like crazy. <S> So you’d need to change both your chainrings and chains out for a regular fixed widths. <S> However, I assume you replaced your chainrings and chain to standard width when you added the front derailleur <S> so this is relatively moot.
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Wide-narrow chain and chainrings are not compatible with front derailleurs.
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Single speed bike with child seat? Are single speed bikes considered good bikes to use with child seats? I wasn't sure if the added weight of a four year old would make a single speed too hard to use. Will be using the bike on relatively flat terrain. <Q> It is unlikely that a four year old will slow you down much on a single speed. <S> Just make sure you've got a well maintained front and rear brake. <S> On the other hand, if you're thinking about making a purchase, consider the advantages of a bike that has a few gears, maybe seven or ten, etc, if you anticipate tackling a hill every now and then. <A> No problem at all. <S> Single speed bikes with coaster brakes are very common in the Netherlands and a lot of them have child seats in some form or another. <S> I use one myself and while one does feel the extra weight, especially on the odd incline, it's still very much ridable. <A> The fixed-gear generation having aged into parenthood, one sees such bikes commonly enough in Brooklyn. <S> It was fine.
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I just used a singlespeed for a short loaded tour because my touring bike is broken.
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What bike is better 2010 Trek FX 7.5 or 2015 Trek FX 7.2? My budget allows for maxing out at $500. The LBS sells the new 2015 Trek FX 7.2 for $450. I also found an excellent condition 2010 Trek FX 7.5 for roughly the same price. Assuming the used bike is in excellent condition with less than 300 miles of use, should I be worried about the 5 year model difference of the two bikes? I'm upgrading from a 2008 Trek Navigator 3.0 that is too cumbersome for longer rides. I ride trails with the kids, charity rides, and occasional commuting. These are the specs as specified by Trek's website. I realize the 2010 FX 7.5 has better specs but should I be worried about their age? Or with these bike components is usage more important than age? 2010 FX 7.5 Frame: FX Alpha Black Aluminum Fork: Bontrager Nebula, carbon w/Clix dropouts Wheels: Bontrager SSR w/Clix Tyres: Bontrager Race Lite Hard-Case, 700x32c Shifters: Shimano Deore trigger, 9 speed Front derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear derailleur: Shimano Deore LX Crank: Shimano M443 Octalink 48/36/26 Cassette: SRAM PG950 11-26, 9 speed Pedals: Alloy body w/alloy cage Saddle: Bontrager H2 Flex Form Seatpost: Bontrager Nebula Handlebar: Bontrager SSR OS, 25mm rise Stem: Bontrager SSR, 10 degree Headset: Aheadset Slimstak w/semi-cartridge bearings, sealed Brakeset: Avid SD SD-3 w/Tektro adjustable reach levers 2015 FX 7.2 Frame: FX Alpha Silver Aluminium, DuoTrap S compatible, rack and mudguard mounts Fork: High-tensile steel w/lowrider mounts, CLIX dropouts Front hub: Formula TK31 alloy Rear hub: Formula FM32 alloy Rims: Bontrager AT-750 32-hole double-walled alloy Tyres: Bontrager H2 Hard-Case Lite w/puncture resistant belt, 700x35c Shifters: Shimano Altus EF51, 8 speed Front derailleur: Shimano M191 Rear derailleur: Shimano Acera M360 Crank: Shimano M131, 48/38/28 w/chainguard Cassette: Shimano HG31 11-32, 8 speed Pedals: Nylon body w/alloy cage Chain: KMC Z7 Saddle: Bontrager SSR Seatpost: Bontrager SSR, 27.2mm, 12mm offset Handlebar: Bontrager Low Riser, 25.4mm, 15mm rise Stem: Bontrager SSR, 25.4mm,10 degree Headset: VP, semi-cartridge bearings, sealed Brakeset: Tektro alloy linear-pull brakes, Shimano Altus levers Grips: Bontrager Satellite <Q> At the level of bike you are looking at (2010 Trek 7.5 FX), most of the components will be easily found at your local bike shop or online. <S> At this level, most manufacturers will use standard components which are easily obtainable, mostly because using any non-standard components would end up costing more, as they would only be produced in low quantities. <S> Also, because they use standard components, and many other bikes use the same components, there is a big market for replacement parts, which means that finding replacement parts should be easy and inexpensive. <S> As you move up to more exotic/expensive bikes, you'll start to see more unique parts that may be harder or more expensive to replace on older models. <A> If a bike hasn't been ridden but stored in a nice environment (e.g. a garage) for a few years and it was in good condition when it was put in, all you have to do is: <S> Dust it off <S> Pump up tires <S> Lube the chain and other moving parts <S> Check <S> the brake pads are still good <S> Then ride away. <S> 300 gentle miles on a bike is practically new. <S> And bike parts are available through your LBS or online or ebay or spare parts bins for much longer than one may think. <S> (I'd probably do a mechanical check on everything on the bike as well, but I suppose its not strictly necessary if the bike hasn't been touched in a long time) <S> bb which is octalink vs jis, both extremely easy to get though). <S> If the 7.5 fx is in excellent condition, it is the one I'd go for (possibly talking down the price a bit ). <A> 2010 <S> Trek 7.5 FX has the better frame. <S> Components can always be replaced or upgraded. <S> The 2015 Trek 7.2 has an Alpha Silver Aluminum frame. <S> Not to mention, you get a carbon fork from the 2010. <A> Warranties are not transferrable on a used Trek. <S> I have a Trek 7.2 fx, and it shifts very smoothly, and stops on a dime. <S> Only upgrades are a plush gel seat, and a water bottle cage. <S> My bike has a kickstand, which does not add much weight, and the convenience that it provides makes it worth <S> while. <S> I can't find anything wrong with the 7.2 fx. <S> You never really know what you are getting with a used bike. <S> You may need to change components on the used bike. <S> You don't know if it had been properly lubed throughout the last 5 years. <S> All of that cost more money, which will put you over your budget. <S> If you buy a new bike, the dealer will set it up for you, and usually will give you a free tuneup after 30 days. <S> I would buy the new bike.
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Assuming the used bike is in good condition, you shouldn't be worried about being able to find replacement parts when the time comes. I hesitate to answer this somewhat, since it somewhat verges on product recommendation, but the components on the 7.5 fx are better quality and compatible parts will be available for essentially the same amount of time as the 7.2 fx (pretty much all of them are cross compatible with whats on the 7.2 fx anyway, except the crankset + A bicycle sitting idle for 5 years is pretty much nothing. Alpha Black Aluminum is directly comparable to Alpha Gold Aluminum. If you buy a new Trek, you will get a lifetime warranty on the frame.
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Child bike seat usage when approaching max weight I've been reviewing some of the options for commuting your kid around (bike seat, trailers, mid tails, long tails, etc) and am having a hard time determining the best option. My daughter is 45lbs and is at or approaching the limit of most bike seats. Is the easy option of a bike seat the way to go? Or will commuting a kid at the max weight of a seat be too cumbersome (and short term)? Are the other options a better choice here? Note I don't currently own a bike so all choices will involve a purchase of some kind... <Q> Even if you decide to buy the seat now, presumably there'd be an issue as she grows? <S> And by the sounds of things, it won't be long before she passes the upper limit. <S> So I'd look at other options, which as I see it, are: a trailer one of those things where they're sitting on their own saddle, over their own wheel, but are actually being towed by you or last, get her her own bike. <S> From experience, this one has pros and cons. <S> The obvious pro is to get them cycling as soon as possible, the con is that until they become pretty proficient, they ride mightily slowly! <S> While I was googling, I also came across this article which might help (and this is where the pics came from). <A> There do exist child seats that support higher weights, for example this one: <S> http://www.yepp.nl/uk/Collection/Yepp-Junior .I rembember <S> this style of seats to be very common in The Netherlands for kids up to ages of 8 or so (although they often also cycle on their own). <S> This does require a bike with a rear rack that actually supports that weight too, and I don't know about availability outside NL. <A> To expand the options that PeteH listed Follow Me Tandem is a pretty cool solution - it lets you attach the child's bike to an adult's bike to form an improvised tandem. <S> The website is available in German and English. <S> Check out the English flyer . <S> Regular tandem with child stoker kit. <S> This store has several photos of small kids on with a seat back very young children <S> Fairly soon children can sit without a seat back on the saddle. <S> Of course it all depends on the child and length of your rides. <S> But good tandems do cost a bit. <S> There is no single solution that fits all.
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Going with a tandem will give you probably the longest usability as your child grows up and allows you to go longer distances easily. It really depends on your riding habits (length of ride, type of ride, how often you ride, etc), how much money you are willing to spend, and personal preference.
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Minimal gear for dry winter riding in the city New bike owner here. I ride everyday in the city for errands and eating out as long as it doesn't rain (I don't like riding in rain). As winter is approaching, I'd like to find a bag of some sort that would pack the following as I stroll the streets, or linger in coffee shops, in between commutes: Helmet (clip from outside?) Wind/Winter jacket (if it gets hotter and less windy, I can put it in the bag and ride) iPad Keys, Wallet, misc items I don't intend to carry anymore things. A backpack could work (provided it doesn't make me sweaty), but is there one where the helmet can be securely clipped on? Essentially, I want a single bag to carry all essential accessories, so I can just put 'em all in, and carry it with me between the rides, while freeing the hands from carrying anything else. What are my options? Update : I live in Victoria, BC, Canada - nearly always above zero degrees. Lots of sunshine. Windy. I don't intend to ride in even mild rain. Update 2 : I carry an U-lock that is attached to the frame, and I just realized that I can lock the helmet to the lock (helmets are unlikely to be stolen I guess), so I don't need to carry the helmet with me. That increases my options. <Q> For such light weight I suggest a handlebar bag: <S> Advantages: <S> They don't get dirty from spray from the wheels unlike panniers (which transfer dirt to your clothes) <S> Your phone is handy if you want to check e.g. a map (I mean stop but don't get off). <S> They've typically got a shoulder strap and quick release mounting <S> so they're easy to take indoors. <S> They've got slightly more capacity than you say you need -- you'll soon use it. <S> Unlike a backpack they won't make you sweaty <S> Disadvantages: <S> They're quite small Cheaper ones soon start to let water in (true of any bag though) <S> (This is the big one for me) they get in the way of handlebar mounted lights. <S> This may or may not be an issue for you, but don't ignore it. <S> Even a wedge bag would hold all your stuff except the helmet. <S> Whatever you go for either clip the helmet on the outside or get a mesh helmet bag - helmets can do with some fresh air and a bag that will hold a helmet is quite bulky. <S> I've got an Altura dryline -- not the cheapest option <S> but it has a mapcase to go over the top and can keep a netbook and change of clothes dry. <S> It would take a helmet for a small head, but not mine. <S> I recently switched back to using it because of a baby seat. <S> There are much cheaper options (example) out there as well, and most come with a shoulder strap. <A> Put clothes and electronics into the dry bag and put that into the backpack. <S> As Batman says though, winter may need more than just the items you list. <S> Here, I need a LOT more protection as it gets COLD. <S> As for keeping a helmet secure, there are loads with a mesh or similar on the outside that you can put your helmet into or clip onto (I tend to just clip it around a strap and let it dangle though). <S> I'd suggest going to a bike shop and looking at their stock. <A> There's only really a few options in terms of bags. <S> At the top level, you can have something that fits onto the bike (a pannier), or something that fits onto you. <S> For many people, panniers are a convenient solution and can clip/unclip from the bike in a few seconds. <S> But you need a bike rack, and not all types of bike support this. <S> Looking at things that would fit onto you, I can think of three. <S> First, as you say, there is the backpack. <S> Personally, I don't like them because I don't like having things on my back when I'm cycling, but it's just a preference thing. <S> The second option is some kind of courier bag, which would also go across your back. <S> for example For my money, that's just about the same as a backpack, but you might find you prefer one style over the other. <S> Third option is a bumbag, or waist bag. <S> You're obviously restricting the amount of carry-space here, but depending on how bulky your jacket is, it might work. <S> For example: I ended up with one of these (style, not bag) and it is good, but I need to be very discerning about what I carry. <S> You might find your iPad is a limiting factor here, although I managed to get a 7" tablet in mine. <S> But this is something you'd need to check against the spec. <S> Obviously when you think about a helmet, you'll looking at clipping it to the bag rather than putting it in the bag.
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Just get a small backpack and a drybag that fits inside it. You can always add a backpack for shopping
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New Trek 1.5 wheels need to be trued after 2 rides, normal? I took my new Trek 1.5 out for 2 spins after I got it and the front wheel is running a few mm off true. The back is too but it isn't that bad. I rode it approx 35km. I stupidly didn't check the wheels to be properly trued when I left the shop but I didn't think I rode it that hard. Is it normal for new wheels to need to be trued after bedding in or could they have been off true from the factory? Do I have to be really paranoid about every little bump in the road? Rims:Bontrager Tubeless ReadyTyres:Bontrager R1 Hard-Case Lite, 700x23c <Q> There's an article about how they build wheels at Bontrager: Inside Bontrager Wheel Factory . <S> tldr; Expensive wheels are trued, stressed, trued, and stressed again, trued again. <S> Your wheels were trued in the factory (maybe only once), then you stressed them and now somebody needs to true them again. <A> Typically lower-level wheels are machine built and oftentimes not pre stressed. <S> When you ride the bike, the nipples and spokes will seat themselves into the rim or the hub, changing their length and tension slightly. <S> After a couple rides they will need to be trued. <S> Once or twice is fairly common. <A> I'd say that making sure the wheels are pre-stressed should be a standard part of a bike shop's prep of a bike. <S> If you know that your customers are going to come back with wheel that are out of true, why not get it right before the bike goes out the door?
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I'd say it can be normal because there are many factors can stress a wheel and depends on the quality of the wheels, they might need to be trued again.
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How did cyclists get over curbs before BMX era? There were curbs before 1970s, right? I wonder whether everyone had to dismount or dramatically slow down before curbs until bunny hop and wheel lift became popular, I guess, in 1970s among first BMXers. Same with cyclocross: for decades, from its beginnings, riders always dismounted before barriers. But suddenly, inspired by BMX, they realized it's possible to simply jump over? EDIT: changed wording to underline that CX is much older than BMX. EDIT2: I don't want to make you think that you need BMX bike to hop curbs. What I'm pointing to is that before BMX there was little mainstream attention to techniques like bunny hop (at least I got such impression), and after BMX got popular they spread throughout all cycling world. Though not many of us are skilled in jumping curbs, virtually everyone knows that can be done at ease by other riders. <Q> While I couldn't find references about curb hopping in particular, I'm pretty sure that these tricksters from the late 1800s wouldn't have had a problem pulling it off. <S> Cyclocross has roots that go almost as far back . <S> The first organized cyclocross races were around the end of the 19th century and the first French National Championship was in 1902. <S> I would guess that prior to BMX most people got over curbs the same way that most people get over curbs today. <S> Keep in mind, most cycling commuters can't pull off a decent bunny hop and many commuter bikes aren't designed to do so. <A> We just pulled the front wheel up and dropped it as we went over the curb, then we kept riding, letting momentum pull the rear wheel over the bike. <S> It's what I still do. <S> (I don't have a BMX bike.) <S> Sheesh. <S> So much fuss over a simple and second-nature action <S> we never even gave a 2nd thought to. <A> Note that if you have a penny farthing, then hopping curbs really isn't much of a problem. <S> You do have to be careful not to do an end-over but a bit of leaning back on the saddle or hooking your legs on the front bars would do the trick. <S> Some various positions for penny-farthing MTBing: <S> Note that solid rubber tires had an advantage over modern pneumatic tires in that you can't get pinch punctures on a solid!
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People were doing tricks on bicycles almost as soon as they were invented. They slowed down a bit, lifted the front wheel over the curb, and leaned forward to get the weight off the rear wheel.
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Netherlands: where to buy cheap bikes? (Police autions, cheapest towns) We are a french couple visiting the Netherlands (starting tomorrow) by bike. We have few questions: are there specific places / city where we have better chances to find cheap bikes ? (except amsterdam, since without bike it will be too big to start with). we heard about police bike auction but according to some website it seems reserved to the community or people whose bike was stollen, at least in Amsterdam and Hardenberg (which is understandable). Do you know if they is a website listing all the police auction dates (we can go anywhere in the Netherlands to buy the bikes)? We did try googleing this "Fietsenverkoop bij politie + city-name" (translate with google translate) but we didn't find any info except for the auction in Amsterdam, Hardenberg (where being french resident we can't go), and Groningen (the next auction is too late for us)? Are there other keywords we could use? what should we do if we find a good bike (not suspiciously cheap and from a private person : we found out about marktplaatz) without any serial number on it (in France there is no identification number on bike so we don't do if it's mandatory in netherlands to have a serial number, or if all the bikes have one). Is there a way to ensure it's not stolen? Would a photo of the ID card + the address of the seller will be enough? are bikes cheaper in Belgium ? Thanks a lot for your help! <Q> There are several places to avoid if you are looking for a cheap bike, and several places to seek. <S> First to avoid: Generally bikes tend to be pricier / lower quality in all towns with a big university because demand is high and many bikes are "consumed" by the buyer. <S> Lots of exchange students buy a bike and discard it after a year rather than resell it, and most other students use their bike untill it falls apart with as little maintenance as possible and discard the wreck. <S> So you're less likely to find a good value bike here: Groningen, Enschede, Wageningen, Utrecht, Amsterdam, Nijmegen, Maastricht, Eindhoven, Tilburg, Delft, Leiden. <S> Regular bicycle shops (they usually charge a high markup for secondhand bikes). <S> What to seek out: <S> As a counterpoint to the point about university towns above: in many of these university towns you get people who collect the wrecks and combine them into working bikes that they sell for a nice price. <S> You'll find these people through marktplaats and they offer reasonably priced bikes. <S> the "Kringloopwinkel" or "tweedehands winkel" in whichever town you select (second hand store). <S> There is no requirement for serial numbers on bikes though insurance companies sometimes require it. <S> You should probably go with your gut feeling when going this route, I think legal sales are the norm there though. <S> You can do two things to improve your odds of staying on the right side of the law: <S> Check other ads on marktplaats from the same seller, check how long they have been a user on marktplaats longtime users <S> are less likely to be fraudulent. <S> Dutch police has a tool to find "suspect" sellers . <S> Fill in the sellers' username and/or e-mail address there to check if "reports" have been filed about that user (bikes are in the category "overig"). <S> As to your final question: I think the dutch market for secondhand bikes is very liquid and very large. <S> My gut feeling tells me secondhand bikes will be better value in the Netherlands <S> but I never tried buying a secondhand bike in Belgium. <A> All bikes that are reported stolen to the police are put in this register. <S> You can either search for a chipnumber which can be found on higher quality locks (long number starting with 999 or 975), or you can search for the framenumber, which all Dutch bikes have (mostly under the bracket). <S> If the bicycle is not in this database, it is not reported as stolen. <S> If you wan't to buy a good and cheap bike, but you don't know a lot about bikes: buy a bicycle from marktplaats.nl, and stick to the quality brands <S> (Dutch: Gazelle, Batavus, Sparta; or international: Giant, Trek, etc.). <A> In Amsterdam, bikes collected by the city (gemeente) are stored in the fietsdepot. <S> Summary information is available in English . <S> I would call them to get the latest and most accurate info, but according to their website, the bikes can be purchased in two ways: If one has a Stadspas, which is a city pass obtainable by lower income folks, then you can go to a particular bakeshop, Pantar, and get one with a lock and lights for €55.- <S> If one is a student, then you can contact the Algemene Studenten Vereniging Amsterdam (ASVA - a general student society). <S> Nevertheless, the grapevine's rumor led me to believe that they also sell off bikes once a year; again, I'd call the fietsdepot. <S> If you're near a MacBike rental store, they give a slight discount on rentals (10% I believe) if you're a resident. <S> They also sell their old rental bikes .
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They are quite often the party that receives "left over" bikes from the police and bikes removed for being "in the way" (which I explained in my answer to your previous question ) www.marktplaats.nl (with an "s") is a good source of cheap secondhand bikes. If you really want to be sure the bike isn't stolen: The Dutch Police also has a tool called Fiets diefstal register (fdr) .
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Are there any permanent solutions for holes smaller than 1cm on outer tyre? My road bike tire is damaged because of some biketrap I fell into. After a month I got a flat while riding. I found this hole at the damaged area while repairing the puncture on inner tube. After pumping some air the inner tube is popped out from this hole. I put folded piece of paper inside to prevent another flat until I get home but I dont think that will hang on a bit more. Any longtime solution to last it longer would be helpful. <Q> You may be surprised how long your paper patch lasts. <S> I've used dollar bills, empty energy gel packs and they have lasted quite a long time, but now carry Park Tool Tire Boots. <S> They have an adhesive and attach to the inside of your tire and stay put, even if you get another flat and have to change tubes. <S> I've found that the money or paper solution will move or fall out of place without the pressure of the tube to hold it in place. <S> You should be able find the Park Tool Tire Boots at any local bike shop, but here is a link to Amazon: Park Tool TB-2 <S> Emergency Tire Boot <A> I always carry a spare inner tube AND a cheap small tire patch kit, plus 2 CO2 cartridges with me when I ride. <S> That way, in theory, I can fix up to two flats on a ride. <S> In practice, I have used the time patch kit to repair tire cuts much more often than I use it to fix a second flat. <S> The patch stays in place regardless of tire pressure, prevents road dirt from working its way through the tire (into the space between tire and tube- where it can cause another flat) , and can help stop rips or cuts from spreading. <S> I have fixed tires this way and forgotten about the fix, riding 300 - 500 miles before remembering that I needed a new tire. <S> It's pretty effective and has some advantages over the dollar bill fix. <S> Plus you can use it to fix a tube! <S> But remember you still need a new tire. <A> You can make your own tire boots by scrounging a tubular tire. <S> Cut out a 7cm by 3cm rounded rectangle, and peal off the tread if you can. <S> I found one in the trash at a local bike store three decades ago <S> and I've only used a small portion of it. <S> To glue it in place, find some contact cement that has the word FLAMABLE on it, because then you know that it has solvents that will soften the surface rubber. <A> This will probably sound crazy, but I sewed up a tear in the sidewall with fishing line once. <S> Lasted six months at least, running at full pressure on my daily commute (7 miles round trip). <S> If I had made my seam about 1/4 inch longer than the tear on each end of the tear, it would've lasted even longer. <S> Just be sure you're threading into the unfrayed portion of the tire's fabric. <S> And this obviously would only work on the sidewall, if at all.
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The tire patch kits go bad over time, so I replace them regularly. The dollar bill trick is good for getting home, but eventually the linen fibers will wear out.
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Are parallel v-brakes fixed distance? [Avid Arch Rival 50] OK, this is naive question, but I have to be 200% sure :-) If you compare the regular v-brake against parallel v-brakes as Avid Arch Rival 50: the one thing which is always ignored is the way you can change the distance between pads. In the regular v-brakes you change the distance with the cable, more loose means more distance between pads. But with parallel v-brake the distance is fixed, so loosening the cable does not change a thing, it just adds a dead cable section. This influences the pads and the wheel rim you can select -- more fat pads or slightly wider rim and you have a problem. The question is -- am I right with the fixed distance in such v-brakes? UPDATE: fixed means -- there is some distance, predefined, and you can narrow it, but you cannot increase it. Let's say you are on the ride and you hit something hard with wheel. The wheel needs trueing. With regular v-brakes you just loose the cable to get home. With parallel v-brakes loosening cable does not help. Photo comes from Avid Arch Rival 50 Review at GearReview <Q> This in theory improves braking. <S> Other than this - they function the same as a normal V-brake in that the arms act as levers to apply the brake blocks to the rim surface. <S> Adjustment may be a bit more picky - in that as the cable is loosened and the braking arms move outward - it will raise the brake blocks to keep them parallel to the rim. <S> Therefore, to get the pads further from the rim - you may have to slacken of significantly more tension than with traditional V-brakes. <S> You may have to undo the cable entirely to slacken enough. <A> I don't see these to be different. <S> When you're describing dead cable not affecting this distance, you kind of answer your own question. <S> Most calipers stop at some point when spread apart. <S> If you want to go beyond that limit, maybe different brakes will work better for you. <S> The horseshoe is not affecting this, plus it can be removed without affecting functionality of the brakes. <A> In my experience, the arch rivals have a bit less "wiggle room" with cable tension released, than other brands <S> but -- unless you want to run fat tires -- I think they're among the best V-brakes on the planet.
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iirc - the Arch Rival V-brakes are described as parallel because the brake block surfaces are always parallel to the rim braking surface at whatever distance from the rim. All brake calipers have some spread limit.
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Is it good practice to wave following cars through when safe? When I am being followed by a car that is unable to safely overtake, I would normally take the lane and adopt primary position as recommended , making an obvious move to secondary position once it is safe for them to overtake. Sometimes the car doesn't immediately try to overtake and may miss the opportunity to get past me, even though it is legal and, in the cyclist's opinion, safe to do so. If I can see further around the corner (being further ahead) that the road is clear, should I wave them through, or leave the decision up to them? I'm interested in safety and legal issues as well as avoiding irritating motorists for the good of cyclists generally. <Q> Never. <S> I drive a school bus (and ride a bike, of course - but never at the same time) and when bicyclists wave me through, I ignore them. <S> There is no way that they can truly judge the space that I need without running into an oncoming car or them. <S> Same goes for when I'm in my car. <S> I trust my own judgment. <S> If it means that I am driving behind them for a bit, so be it. <S> On my bike, I keep enough space between me and the curb and let them make their move. <S> What if I wave them on, they hesitate, and then go after the golden moment has come and gone? <S> Or if they pass a little too close because they are nervous? <S> At worst, I'll stop and let them pass. <S> As we all know, folks in the cars don't make the best calls but better than me making it for them. <A> I subscribe to the theory of "don't force the other person to make a decision". <S> That way they don't have to decide whether to speed up or slow down to get over. <S> On a bike, that means to communicate your intentions and provide one obvious path for the driver to take. <S> For instance, I always take the ENTIRE lane if I'm going to take the lane, and when I want cars behind me to go past <S> I get over to the shoulder as far as I can and wave them on. <S> If I've had to take the lane in a somewhat problematic area I will even stop so I can get the bike off the road and let impatient cars past. <S> It's up to the driver to decide to go past when you wave them by. <S> But it makes the decisionmaking process easier. <A> I agree with most answers stating that you can't make a decision for another road user, however, I want to share something that happens on my country, Honduras, were we have a generally poor vehicular culture, and just the first attempts are being made towards motorist accepting bicyclists as legitimate road and street users. <S> In our roads, truck drivers (18 wheelers) use to swerve temporarily towards the right while flashing the left turn indicator which is interpreted by small vehicle drivers as an invitation to overtake, indicating that the driver of the truck is aware that it is slowing down the rest of the traffic and that those drivers "are there" trying to overtake. <S> The decision, of course is always for the small car driver to make, the truck driver won't get angry if you don't overtake right away. <S> I have had similar interactions on the road while I'm on the bike and an 18 wheeler driver performed the same signals and even waved with his hand. <S> What I'm trying to show is that waving for a driver that is behind you <S> is not you taking the decision for them <S> , instead it means that you are aware of their need to overtake and are briefly "willing to collaborate", i.e. you indicate that you won't be taken by surprise <S> is the manoeuvre is performed normally in that moment. <S> This was because there where parked cars at both sides of a narrow street. <S> As soon as there were more space, I waved him/her back as I swerved right. <S> The driver seemed happy with the action, and greeted with a couple of beeps as passing by. <S> I realize this is subjective/anecdotal, but I wanted to point out that there is another interpretation for this type of signals , but also, that this depends a lot on local culture . <A> I found that at least here in Germany, most drivers are confused by trying to wave them by. <S> Same goes for drivers in oncoming traffic that want to go left (across my lane) <S> that I try to wave across when my traffic lights turn red. <S> My strategy is taking "primary position" or even closer to the middle line when overtaking is either not a good idea or if there is enough space (maybe an additional lane) that would allow easy overtaking. <S> I only move towards the curb when the road is visible for a longer stretch and overtaking safely is definitely possible. <S> This is to avoid being pushed against the curb when an overtaking car has to terminate its manoeuvre prematurely due to oncoming traffic. <S> However, most drivers seem to ignore this signal as well, either overtaking regardless of the traffic situation or not overtaking at all. <S> Note though that I mostly ride a velomobile <S> , so the UFO effect is far more pronounced than with any other type of bicycle. <A> I try to wave cars through when I know that it is safe, there is enough room for them to get through. <S> So I think that it is perfectly good practice <S> but you have to think about the size of the vehicle <S> and if it will get around you. <A> It sounds like you're talking about waving a driver around where there's double yellow lines in the center of the road (and blind double yellow at that) indicating that vehicles may not cross it to pass. <S> Either way, the driver needs to decide when to pass, based on their own visibility and judgment. <S> Waving around just pressures us to make a possibly bad decision, based on a stranger's judgment.
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In a car an example is to not stay in someone's blind spot as they are about to change lanes. I have also had a type of interaction where I was riding a bike and asked a driver not to overtake by waving my hand palm side down.
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Bike too big for me I bought a bike online based on a recommendation that a 56cm frame would be ok for me (I am 5ft 10, with 30" inside leg). However I think it is slightly too big. I have to lean forward a lot and my arms are almost locked out to reach the brakes. At the moment, the handlebars are on the lowest setting. It makes it very hard to look over my shoulder to turn right and if I do I sometimes lose balance and swing into the middle of the road...lucky there was no cars there at the time. Is there a way for me to move the handlebars closer to me? <Q> Presumably its a 56 cm frame, not a 56 inch frame. <S> The number doesn't always correlate well with what size you should be using. <S> You can try a shorter stem, different handle bars, or a different seatpost which allows you to move more forward (or just move your seat). <S> If none of that works, you're going to have to sell or return the bike and get a smaller size. <A> The frame size is just the length of the seat tube. <S> It will tell you some crucial details such as being able to stand over the frame and how well you can pedal, but doesn't tell you how well your bike fits your upper body. <S> Two people the same height can have different proportions. <S> I'm 6'2 and have a 31 inch inseam, so you are a lot leggier than me. <S> You could make up a bit of distance by moving the seat forwards on its rails. <S> If your legs are just barely reaching, you should switch bikes! <S> I would also like to recommend Sheldon Brown's article about frame sizing. <A> I'm in the same boat, but a little farther along. <S> I am 5'9" and found a nice 56cm frame w Dura Ace last Spring. <S> Its my first road bike <S> so it took several rides to realize something was wrong. <S> In short, I've changed to a shorter stem, switched to a 0 setback seat post and am looking at trying to switch to compact bars as I'm still just <S> about 1 to .5 inch away from being completely comfortable right on/behind the brake hoods. <S> (looking at compact bars because mine are older/full sized curve <S> and I've had to cheat the brakes back to where they are really on top of the bars.) <S> In all likely hood, I'm going to get a bike fit and order a frame for next Spring. <A> It's possible to make a bike bigger but closer to impossible to make a bike smaller. <S> You may be fortunate and be able to make a change, ie a different seat post, that doesn't affect the handling of the bike too much. <S> My recommendation: sell the bike and then get a bike that fits you like a glove. <S> You'll take a loss most likely but not really since you'll likely be spending tons on trying to get your current bike to work.
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If your legs seem to be fitting OK you can reduce the forward reach by switching stems or switching handlebars, particularly if your current bike has drop bars, you can look into getting flat bars, although that will be expensive due to brake lever changes. A good idea would be to go to a bike shop and pay for a bike fit if you haven't done this before (or at least check out youtube on how to do this).
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Reuse oversized hardtrail frame to build a commuter bike? I have a spare hardtrail frame which is too big (20.5") for me (5'7") for riding trails. Would it make sense to build a commuter bike for me as road/touring bike frames are generally larger than MTB? Could it be comfortable to ride this frame on road? I like to lean forward on a bike and I'm a fast type of commuter. <Q> It's a good, cheap way to build a first commuter. <S> Throw on a pair of road slicks and lights and go to work. <S> It will give you a chance to decide what you really want in a commuter bike. <S> It will be able to handle bad roads and pot holes better than a road racing bike. <S> But, it will still be heavier and slower than a bike based on a cyclocross/utility/road frame with 700c wheels. <A> You've got it the wrong way around. <S> Road frames, in terms of horizontal toptube length, are significantly shorter than mountain bike frames. <S> If it's a hardtail frame and it's too big for you with a flat bar, it's going to be way too big for you with a drop bar. <S> On the other hand, you might be able to put a bar with significant sweep on the frame and have it fit you a bit better. <S> However, this would effectively shorten the stem, which may make the handling a bit twitchy. <A> Unless you have the spare parts laying around build-outs are expensive and always labor intensive. <S> Road versus trail <S> the fit is not that different. <S> The frame fits you or not. <S> I had mountain bike that the shock wore out and bought a better mountain bike. <S> I put a fixed fork and tires on it to use it as a city bike and still had to think about it. <S> I am good with that decision but the frame fit me and the conversion was $200.
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It is not worth spending money on a frame the does not fit you.
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Neck pain after BG Bike Fit? I did the smart thing and went in for a bike fit 3 weeks ago. I had some serious pain in my hands which has since been essentially resolved. Now, in the drops and at the hoods, I get pretty wretched neck pain 4 miles in. I stretch my traps before and during the ride but can't get any relief. I had not owned a road bike before and just started biking on a daily basis 10 - 15 miles at a time. Is there a fit issue that still needs to be resolved or am I paying the price for weak trapezius muscles? The pain essentially goes away by the end of the next day. Thanks. <Q> Go back and get fit again. <S> You paid them, it shouldn't be painful. <S> It might be a little uncomfortable at first, but shouldn't be as painful as it sounds. <S> A new stem and stack height may help. <A> You don't mention your fitness level, or how hard you are riding. <S> Riding 10-15 miles (16-24 km) <S> straight away sounds too much for you. <S> I recommend you <S> aim for 5 miles, every second day. <S> While riding, consciously change your hand position between the tops (the straight part of the handlebars), the hoods, and the corners of the bars, with an occasional stretch down to the drops. <S> Stop a little after you feel those muscles getting tired. <S> The reason for riding every second day is to give those muscles time to recover and respond to the demands you're putting on them. <S> They will grow stronger, if you don't over-stress them and give them time. <S> As they get stronger, you can increase the distance, by say, 10% until you are comfortable with the new distance. <S> Don't over-do it. <S> If you injure yourself then your whole cycling plan will get set back by months. <S> So do monitor how you're going, talk to the people at the shop, and definitely see a doctor or physiotherapist if you think something more serious is happening. <S> (Of course, none of us here are doctors, so don't even imagine that this is medical advice!) <S> In a couple of weeks you should be back to 10 miles again, and be ready to ride further or faster or every day. <A> Do you typically have muscles knots in the area of your trapezius muscles? <S> I've provided one link below (there are many others out there) for some exercises. <S> http://stress-free-mama.com/trapezius-muscle-pain/ Cycling is actually pretty demanding that you have decent core strength and flexibility. <S> In addition to the suggestions above regarding bike fit, you should start a core strength program too. <S> The exercises don't take long and it's something to do on your off days. <S> Pro cyclist Tom Danielson has an entire book on the subject and if you search Youtube you'll find several videos that describes the exercises.
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If so, you may also need to do some strength training of that area.
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Should I use lights in foggy conditions? Today it was foggy, visibility was only slightly reduced, I already wear a high-vis on my bike but I am wondering if it is still worth me using my lights or is that overkill? <Q> I definitely recommend this. <S> Running lights will make you more readily visible as the light will penetrate the fog to an extent. <S> Reflectors and high-viz clothing will be somewhat less effective during foggy conditions. <S> Use caution riding in foggy conditions as drivers may not see you until they are very close. <A> You should use lights in fog. <S> On a car, you don't use high beams in fog (but you're supposed to use low beams (required) and fog lights (optional, but useful since they cast a low and wide beam which increases visibility) since they reflect back too much, but on a bicycle, your lights aren't that powerful for this to be a problem (and the distance they cover is less than a car light). <S> You should also be extra on edge and wear your high vis stuff, since your visibility is lower (and more importantly, people who are driving cars have lower visibility and aren't always very good at driving in fog). <A> Many people run lights on a clear day for safety. <S> In the US by law a motorcycle must run lights all the time. <S> Law was based on safety. <S> This is a related post <S> Does it make you safer to use lights during the day <S> Cars turn their lights on in the fog. <S> Another answer was criticized for stating this is a no-brainier. <S> But it is. <S> As for high beam versus low beam. <S> A bicycle light is typically oriented as a low beam. <A> I always turn on my headlights even in the daytime for safety reasons, whether driving a car or riding a bike or motorcycle. <S> Many times I have tried to change lanes when visibility was limited and had to correct back into my lane because what I thought was a clear lane was actually occupied by a very hard to see vehicle coming up from my blind spot. <A> In Ohio, the way I read it, it appears that lighting falls under the generic vehicle lighting guidelines, so bicycles are required to act like cars in this one aspect <S> (other rules explicitly state motorized vehicle or even "motorcycle"). <S> So, lights are required when: Between sunset and sunrise Visibility less than 1000 feet Windshield wipers are on (recent addition which I think is reallydumb as we often have bright sunny days with occasional lightsprinkles and lights are totally unnecessary, yet you'll be using thewipers). <S> I've not yet seen a bicycle with wipers, so perhaps"raining enough that I'd use wipers if I had them" would be a goodgeneral rule too?
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Many accidents could be avoided if everyone drove with their headlights on during limited visibility.
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I just replaced my cassette, do I need replace the 2 month old chain? I replaced both my cassette and chain in July (2.5 months ago). For some reason my chain started skipping when I was in the smallest cog in back. I took it to a shop, they could not find anything wrong. They measured the chain and the cogs and said everything looked good, but since it was not working they suggested I replace the cassette and chain again. So, I bought another cassette and another chain. I just put the cassette on and the bike works great. Should I put on the new chain too? Or save it for a while? Thanks, <Q> If it works great, leave it alone. <S> Measure the chain <S> every few hundred miles and install the new one as soon as the one you have on now is worn beyond spec. <S> And, when you have a few minutes to spare, read this: http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.htm <A> I went through a similar exercise this summer. <S> Maybe my experience can be helpful. <S> I have 15 year old Mountain bike with XTR components all around. <S> My 6 year old chain starting to bind in a couple of links <S> so I decided to change it out. <S> I did not buy a Shimano chain but used a KMC 8 speed chain from LBS. <S> I made the mistake of throwing out the old chain. <S> I could have soaked it in degreaser and fixed it. <S> I started skipping immediately, I decided since both the cassette (XTR) and front cranks/rings (XTR) where at 10 years old I might as well change them out. <S> I ordered a new shimano 8 speed cassette and new shimano cranks, plus a new bottom bracket. <S> Since shimano does not make any high end 8 speed stuff I had to settle for what they had. <S> I was not in the mood to purchase used XTR that matched. <S> (I am not by any means a pro rider and I live where mountain biking offers few challenging places to go, <S> so I don't need XTR <S> , I have become a component snob unfortunately.) <S> The cassette came in right away. <S> The cranks were back ordered. <S> So I changed out the cassette and it still skipped. <S> I couldn't figure it out until I realized that the front chain rings were skipping. <S> It was imperceptible, even looking at the front chain ring <S> while riding I could not see the chain skipping <S> but I could feel it skipping. <S> So I was nervous when the cranks came in. <S> I installed them, re-tuned everything again. <S> Viola, the bike was back to perfection again. <S> I have ridden about 250 miles on the toughest terrain that Chicago land has to offer and no skipping what so ever. <S> And amazingly enough, now that I have some lower end components I can still ride. <S> The lower end stuff I installed has made no discernable difference in my experience. <S> So see if your front rings are worn out. <S> If so, change the rings if you can or change the entire unit. <S> Change the cassette a bit less frequently and change the rings a bit after that. <A> That chain you have will be fine. <S> Chains generally last 1000 or so miles, sometimes more. <S> You should save the new chain to replace this chain currently on your bike when it gets worn out. <S> Not replacing a worn out chain can cost you $$ because you will likely need to replace the cassette and possibly the chainrings
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If you use a worn chain it will grind and wear out the cassette and chain rings prematurely. Generally you should change the chain depending on riding, about every 500 to 1000 miles.
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Hill riding: What gears are usually the most comfortable? I've read this and this and I understand the good ways and the bad on how to ride up hills. In fact I consider myself a good hill climber (roadie), but some of the guys I ride with are beating my KOMs because of their gearing. Two of them are now on 32s whilst I only upgraded from 25 to 28. Yeah I know, I should have gone up to 32 as well to match. BUT, I reckon my 28 with the right gearing on the front will make all the difference. So what are good gearing ratios to determine the right gears for both front and back, so that I can keep my cadence around 70-80 or 90 and still have decent speeds (more then 15km/h)?Do I have to provide personal specs, weight, etc?Thanks <Q> It's not about numbers, it's not about this many teeth should be in the front and this many teeth in the back. <S> There's no right answer here, and no one on this forum can say what your best fit is. <A> @hillsons has already pointed out that one key is to find your ideal cadence. <S> Totally agree, but lets unpack that a bit more ... <S> You don't mention how steep these hills are, how long they are, or how your weight and size compares to these riding buddies. <S> Assuming the hills are longer than can be overcome by a good run up, what gear you need depends on many factors <S> how steep is the hill, how strong you are, compared to the total weight of you and your bike, <S> how mentally tough you are - what level of pain <S> you are willing to endure, <S> how warmed up you are (minimum 30 minutes, maybe 60 minutes). <S> All these factors are inter-related, but it all boils down to the fact that you are using a lever (via your pedals, gears, and wheels) to lift <S> your weight X meters up the hill in less time than your competitors. <S> Lower gears give you a longer lever. <S> Lower weight means you don't have to push as hard. <S> Your strength and aerobic capacity determine how fast you go <S> and how long you can keep it up. <S> Plus the X factor: in competition it's not the fittest, or strongest who win, because at a given level everyone has often pretty much the same physical capabilities. <S> In this situation it's the most determined, the one who can stand the pain the longest, who wins. <S> One family member became a national champion saying just one more tree , or just until that post , and the next. <S> And the next. <S> And smiling to psych the others out. <S> They will help; it will be a self-fulfilling prophesy. <S> For a while. <S> But in the end, you will need to address the central issues. <S> Your strength. <S> Your endurance. <S> Your pain threshold. <S> It can be a great journey. <S> Enjoy. <A> The answer to how to make the 28 like a 32 by adjusting in the front That is 14% <S> Let assume you had a 36 up front now 32 / 36 <S> = 28 <S> / <S> x x = (28 / 32) <S> * 36 <S> x = <S> (7 / 8) <S> * 36 <S> x = <S> 31.5 31 - 32 is kind of small for a road bike and the front derailleur might not handle it. <S> If you want a lower gear you are going to need to add teeth in the rear or take them away in the front. <S> It is not about a calculator to tell you what gear you need. <S> If you cannot hold your target cadence on a climb then you need a lower gear. <S> If 32 is working for your buddies and you hold with them on the flats then why not try a 32. <S> On a 32 / 28 a cadence of 90 is only 13 km <S> /h <S> On a 36 / 28 a cadence of 90 is 14.6 km/h <S> If you cannot hold a cadence of 90 on a 36 / 28 then you are not going to get the speed you want
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If you think lower gears will help, then you are right. So, to be competing, either with friends or in open competition, if it's comfortable, you are doing it wrong ! It's 100% your responsibility to find out what works the best for you and what lets you achieve your ideal cadence and beat your mates up the mountain.
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Can I change my 7-speed rear derailleur to an 8-speed? I bought a 2013 Cannondale Quick 6 Hybrid for my daily commute almost exactly a year ago, and I'm looking to give it some upgrades. It currently has a 7-speed Shimano Altus derailleur, and I was hoping to replace it with something a bit more "road"-y, like the Shimano Claris. However, the Shimano Claris is an 8-speed derailleur while both my cassette and shifter are 7-speed. Also, I don't see anything saying if the Claris would work with the rapid-fire shifters (also Shimano) that I have on my bike right now. The chain is certainly 8-speed compatible, but that's about as much as I can be certain of at this point. If I wanted to switch out my derailleur to the 8-speed, what other parts and/or changes would I have to buy or make in order to make it work? Thanks for all the help in advance! <Q> Rear derailleur's speed markings are generally for marketing purposes - if you're under 10 speed in Shimano, you can swap between road and mountain rear derailleurs without problems provided they have enough capacity for the rear cog combination you're using - <S> the cable pull is <S> the same, so road and mountain shifters can't tell the difference (often in fact, you'll see touring bikes or road bikes with big rear cogs with Shimano Deore derailleurs since the mountain derailleurs can have bigger cogs in the back at the cost of a few grams of extra weight and looking less cool). <S> The speed number you can effectively ignore, since the amount the derailleur moves is determined by the amount the shifters pull the cable (in theory, the cage might be thinner or something, but in practice this doesn't really matter). <S> You also won't notice a difference in performance or anything if you just stuck a Claris rear derailleur on. <S> It would just be a waste of money. <S> If you want 8 speeds, you need to buy an 8 speed cassette (Shimano compatible) and an 8 speed Shimano shifter for the rear. <S> You can keep the existing derailleur - you just need to adjust it a bit. <S> You'll need some special tools (cassette remover, cable cable cutter, big crescent wrench) in addition to hex keys in order to do this as well. <S> Swap the shifter and put the cassette on, adjust the derailleur <S> and you've got an 8 speed setup. <S> Personally, I think you should just stick with 7 speeds as it is sufficient for commuting (the extra speed doesn't really help - its just a bit easier to find 8 speed parts these days, <S> so thats pretty much the only reason to go from 7 to 8). <S> Spend your money on beer or something instead. <S> The Cannondale Quick 6 is a relatively cheap hybrid (~500 dollars new), so if you want something faster, you're probably better off getting a different bike with probably more aggressive gearing and geometry <S> (say a flat bar road bike like the Giant Escape or something if you want to stick with flat bars). <A> It currently has a 7-speed Shimano Altus derailleur <S> The RD-M310 is actually a 7/8 speed derailleur. <S> Kind of between the bottom-line Shimano Tourney line, designated as 7 speed, and the Acera 8 speed ( RD-M360 ). <S> Still, just this morning I saw a Tourney on someone's 8 speed commuting bike (one chainring front, 11-34T 8 in the back). <S> I can't think of any reason why your shifters wouldn't work with the Claris RD-2400. <S> The derailleur doesn't see the shifter, just the cable movement. <S> The derailleur's ratio is the same 1.7 as your Altus. <S> Make a careful selection between the "SS" (short cage) and "GS" (medium cage) version of the Claris. <A> As regards the chain width, 6-, 7- and 8-speed are all interchangeable. <S> 9-speed and above, the chain becomes narrower to cater for the extra sprockets on the cassette. <S> As exemplified by @Batman's answer, there is an amount of scepticism regarding how much this narrowing matters, in terms of the smooth running of the drivetrain.
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You will be fine with an 8-speed cassette, as long as you also think about compatible shifters. If you have three rings in the front (which I see from googling is standard on that Cannondale hybrid), you probably want the "GS", which can better pick up the chain slack if you shift to the small ring, and a small cog at the same time.
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Does the rear tyre carry more weight than the front tyre? As I'm riding my bike, it looks as if the rear tyre is carrying more weight than the front tyre: The rear tyre looks more squished downwards, even though both are equally well-inflated. This I think has been true for every bike I've had. Am I just imagining it or is this generally so? Might this also explain why the rear tyre is more susceptible to wear and tear than the front? <Q> Generally, the weight distribution of a rider on a bicycle is something like 40 - 60 <S> rather than 50-50 <S> (front to back). <S> This contributes to increased rear tire wear (along with rear wheel drive) causing front tires to sometimes last three times as long as rear tires . <S> Skid stops (such as on a fixie) can also increase rear tire wear relative to normal stops. <S> An aside: You don't need to run your tires at equal pressure - in fact, in most cases, the rear tire is about 10% higher than the front tire . <S> This will make it deflect a bit less. <A> Stand your bike against the fence and step away. <S> Most of your weight is on the seat and seat is closer to the rear wheel. <S> Second the weight is on the pedals and they are closer to the rear wheel. <S> Third the weight is on the handle bar and the handle bar is closer to the front wheel. <S> The only time more weight is on the front wheel is when you lean on the handle bar - nice for hopping the rear wheel over a curb. <S> Bikes are designed with more weight on the rear <S> so you don't go over the front easily when you jump on the front brake. <S> Tire wear is also about how you brake and more braking is done by the rear wheel because it is more stable to brake with the rear even though the front has more braking power. <A> If you look at this image and draw a vertical line right down the center between the two wheels, you will see that only the part of the rider's body from the shoulders up is ahead of the line -- easily 2/3rds of the weight of the rider is rear of that center line. <S> When a cyclist gets in an aero tuck, however the balance can get close to 50/50.
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(And I don't know if the numbers work out to make it significant, but keep in mind that when the cyclist applies power to the crank that creates a force vector that shifts more downward force to the rear wheel.)
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Choosing a tool to take off the front cassette My bicycle is Merida Crossway MD 40. It uses Shimano Altus derailleurs. The front cassette looks like this: I measured the central circular element, that must be holding the whole construction. It looks like this: What instrument should I buy to disassemble the front cassette from the bicycle? Does this ebay item fit? <Q> It's hard to tell whether your crank is a classical design or something new and weird. <S> For the classical design you use a "crank puller". <S> or These look sort of like what you show, but you notice the "barrel" is threaded. <S> You remove the bolt holding the crank on (using a standard "Allen" hex wrench) and then thread in the outer barrel of the puller, into the female threads surrounding the bolt head. <S> Turning the arm (or using a wrench on the inner part) then "pulls" the crank off. <S> Some cranks are "self pulling". <S> You leave in place the dust cover over the bolt, insert an Allen wrench into the hole in the dust cover, then unscrew the bolt against the dust cover. <S> If your crank is not the "classical" style then you will need whatever specific tools the manufacturer calls for. <S> Once the crank is off, of course, you may want to remove the "bottom bracket" cartridge. <S> There are about 6 different wrenches for this, for different styles. <S> Park Tool has an excellent web site with instructions on how to do all this stuff. <A> According to the website for your bike ( http://2014.merida-bikes.com/en_int/bikes/cross/cross/2014/crossway-40-md-390.html ), you have an SR Suntour XCM crankset. <S> The documentation for that crankset ( http://www.srsuntour-cycling.com/bike/chainwheels/XCM-XCM-T428-SQ-OCTA-4212.html ) indicates it's compatible with this bottom bracket ( http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Octalink-BB-ES25 ) which is an octalink design. <S> This article from Park Tool ( http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/crank-removal-installation-isis-drive-or-octalink ) explains the removal of octalink cranksets. <A> If you only need to remove the chain ring then a simple Allen wrench <S> They are typically 5 mm <S> Hex key <S> If they spin then use a flat head screw driver on the the other end <S> but they typically do not spin. <S> And can use a 10 mm wench on other side but too much to describe - look it up on youtube. <S> Be careful as most likely it will have spacers you need to save and put back in. <S> And align the nub on chain-ring with the crank arm. <S> Torque it back down in a cross pattern. <A> Front chainrings are not called cassette. <S> They are reffered to as chainrings and cranks. <S> Your posted eBay tool is suitable for "real" cassette only. <S> You may need also a tool called chain whip for that.
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You will need a hex key and a special too called crank extractor (or crank puller). There are also chain ring wrenches for the other side if a flat head screw driver does not work.
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Front fork pulling to center / "indexed steering" So I took my bike in to the repair shop, to have the rear wheel replaced, but after the repair I noticed immediately the steering feeling a bit strange.I've since worked out why. The problem is that the front forks are somehow pulling the front wheel back to a straight position, each time the front wheel is turned slightly. I can see this most easily when picking the front wheel up off of the ground, and turning the front handlebars.The handlebars basically 'snap' themselves back to the straight position, quite strongly. So it's not related to the wheel, or tyre, since this happens with the wheel completely lifted off the ground. And it's not related to the brake or gear cables either, since it does exactly the same thing with these cables pulled out of the way manually. So, as far as I can work out, it must be due to something inside the actual tube of the front forks. I'm pretty sure it didn't do this before going in to the repair shop (or at least it didn't do this to any noticeable extent). Note that, based on looking along the wheel, it really seems to centre front wheel quite accurately, and the centring forces seem quite evenly balanced and smooth on either side. So it kind of seems like something that would need to be set up by design (rather than something being randomly broken). But, this is definitely not something that is desirable for steering, as it makes it difficult for me to steer appropriately when going around bends (since the forks try to pull back to the straight position, which is not what I want when turning). So the question is: are front forks supposed to do this kind of 'automatic recentring' to some extent? (I'm thinking perhaps that maybe it used to be much more subtle before going in to the repair shop, so maybe I didn't notice it, and it was ok for steering before, but it somehow got exaggerated.) If so, is there some way I'm supposed to be able to 'turn down' the effect. If not, i.e. if front forks are just not supposed to do this, why could this be happening now, and what should I do about it? <Q> Re-adjust the bearing (or take it back to the shop) and you're good to go. <A> If it appeared immediately after a repair then the following probably isn't the right diagnosis, but the symptoms sound like "Indexed Steering" ("Brinelling") described on this page . <A> I'm not an expert by any means <S> but I had the very same problem. <S> I found that the forks were too tight. <S> I'm not sure what the design of your bike is <S> but on mine there's a large nut at the top of the neck just where the handlebar stem goes in. <S> I loosened that a little and also the larger gripped fitting immediately below it which houses the ball bearings. <S> Be careful not to over loosen it. <S> It should be just enough so that it rotates freely. <S> A good check to see if you've over done <S> it is to apply the front break and rock the bike back and forth. <S> There should be no movement or clicking in the neck. <S> It might take a little trial and error <S> but if you're anyway useful with a spanner you should manage it no problem. <S> That said if it was me I'd bring it back to the shop and have them sort it as clearly <S> it must have been their doing.
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This is a usual issue if the bearings in the steering tube are overtightened.
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Internal Gear Hub for 16in Wheel? My 4yr old son has a 16in Bikestar and at times he maxes out the gearing on it trying to keep up with his old man. How feasible is it to add either a 2 or 3 speed hub to such a bike? I'm concerned about how much space the hub is going to take up and since I doubt the wheel is a 36h, can one be used with less spokes? I know kids grow out of bikes quickly but he is going to have this bike for a few years for now, and this wheel could be passed down to his sister (right now I'm planning on getting the same brand). While cruising the flats it seems like his cadence is getting close to the high side while doing 7~8 mph. Any bit of downhill causes him to max out and spin crazy. When he wants to pick up the pace a little will also cause him to spin crazy. We have a few hills along our favorite routes that he struggles on so I can't just swap out the existing gearing. The front chain ring fills the chain guard so that is out of the question as well. BACKGROUND INFO : Ok, so I was mostly joking about the keeping up part, I let him lead and set the pace. When he falls behind, I slow down and let him pass, but stubborn kid likes to follow the trailer ...uh princess chariot... too. He also rides this bike daily to daycare and back (2 miles one way). This bike was picked with commuting in mind. We got him this bike for his 4th birthday and about a few weeks after ditching the training wheels. He just barely fit it then and rides great with it now so we still have some time with it before he gets a new one. Alternatives won't work as well since who wants to downgrade? He loves having his own bike. A trailer bike would probably not mesh well, he is already trying to attach his sisters trailer to his bike (and I'm tempted to let him). Long distance isn't an issue with him either, his first ride without training wheels on a 12 inch bike was 15 miles and his first ride with this bike was 21 miles. The common "long way" home from daycare is 10 miles itself. <Q> It's pretty easy if you have a spoke cutter and are willing to run a funny spoke pattern. <S> I suggest buying (ideally second hand) a three speed hub and lacing it into the 16" rim yourself. <S> With a wheel that small and a child on it there's not enough load to make strength an issue, so you can reasonably either lace a 20 spoke rim to a 36 spoke hub using whatever holes are closest, or ignore two spoke holes in the rim and use every second hole in the hub (18/36). <S> It's probably not going to be pretty, but it will work. <S> However I think you're going about this backwards. <S> Why are you riding faster than he can? <S> Much as you wouldn't suggest stilts so he can keep up when you walk, gears don't address the problem that you can ride faster than him. <S> He doesn't have the power or endurance you do, so without a power assist he's going to be slower. <S> If you need to cover long distances, perhaps a trailer bike would be a better solution? <S> That way he can "help", and you can go whatever speed you like. <S> That's generally safer for your kids, since you're in control and the only real risk is them jumping off the bike while you're moving. <A> The only problem is that such wheels are rather expensive even used. <A> Also, if you were to find a compatible hub or whatever (given the 20 spoke constraint that andy256 mentioned in the comments), you'd be spending quite a bit for building it. <S> You'd also have to run your shifter cables and what not. <S> What you could do is get something with a 20 inch bike with a low top tube (like a Specialized Hotrock 20) and see if you can get the seat post low enough ( possibly by cutting it ). <S> Or, just slow down and let the kid catch up. <S> But I don't think the combination exists out of the box. <A> You could buy a rear wheel from Woom with the Scram automatic 2 speed rear hub. <S> It shifts gears when the hub reaches a certain speed. <S> I am in the same boat as you trying to modify a 16" bike for my 4 year old <A> Old thread <S> but why don’t you think the other way and do a “dingle” , put in a double chainring and shift on that rather than the sprocket.... too simple folks.
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I don't think that its a good idea given that in a few months, you're going to want a 20 inch bicycle for the child. A Brompton uses a 16" wheel size, which means you could get a used Brompton wheel with Sturmey Archer 3-speed hub and swap it out. IGH's wouldn't work since the hub width is likely smaller than standard, and mounting a derailleur would be a problem as well.
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The best way to deal with/prevent punctures on tubular tyres I recently picked up some rather expensive tubular wheels on the back of a lot of advice to do with rolling resistance, comfort etc. However I've recently found I'm quite afraid to use them on long training rides for fear of getting a puncture in the middle of nowhere. I'd like to know what people do to prevent/deal with punctures on tubular tyres. <Q> You could try adding sealant to your tubular tire. <S> Most recommend not using the sealant as a preventative measure, but more so as an after the fact solution to quickly fix punctures on the road. <S> However, Tufo Standard tire sealant says that it can be used as a preventative measure, but I can't speak for this. <S> I've heard that it could affect ride quality, so it may be best used in a roadside emergency. <A> When I used tubulars, aka singles, for any serious distance, we always carried at least one spare each. <S> Usually one tied under the seat, and one in the back pocket of the jersey. <S> The bunch leaders would watch for, and call out glass, rubbish, potholes, etc, so the rest of the bunch could avoid them. <S> If you did run over some glass, you'd immediately brush your tires . <S> Usually, we avoided flats. <S> If someone in the bunch got more flats than their spares, it was normal to share the spares the rest of the bunch carried (usually your oldest tire). <S> You just pull the flat tire off, stretch the good tire, mount it on the rim, pump it up, and ride carefully. <S> You would generally only use extra glue when mounting your own new / repaired tire. <S> For those who don't know what we're talking about: <S> Up until the 1950's, riders in the peleton always carried at least one spare. <S> Here's Louison Bobet on his way to winning the 1953 TDF and carrying a spare looped over his shoulders, as everyone did: <A> You need to carry a spare tyre and tape, the biggest problem getting the puncher off use the tape not glue as the tape usually stays on the rim and is a lot less messy
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Tufo Tire Sealant, Stans's No-tubes (and other tubeless sealants) can be used to deal with small punctures.
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Do good tires lessen the chances of your innertube bursting? I have only bought my bike for a month and a half and within this time span, my innertube actually burst 4 times. The bike itself is relatively cheap so I doubt that the tires are of good quality.I am currently considering changing my tires to better ones so as to not waste money on tubes anymore, but do tires really lessen the chances of my innertubes bursting/puncturing? <Q> Its extremely unlikely for an inner tube to just burst. <S> It sounds like you are suffering from punctures. <S> There are two types of puncture; the first is an object penetrating the tire and inner tube, and the second is a 'pinch' puncture where an impact causes the inner tube to be pinched between the tire and rim. <S> Many bikes (even expensive ones) come with poor quality tires as standard, and yes, changing them can make a big difference to penetration punctures. <S> No tire is 100% puncture proof, but something like a Schwalbe Marathon Plus is very close, but is heavy and can give a harsh ride. <S> Continental Gatorskins are favored by many as a good compromise between puncture resistance, rolling speed and comfort. <S> Pinch punctures are usually caused by hitting an object (such as a pothole) with too little pressure in the tire. <S> Adding more air to the tire (don't go over the maximum limit) usually prevents these. <A> Yes, absolutely. <S> Spend an extra 20 dollars on good tires and you could save yourself 30 dollars worth of tubes. <S> Plan on spending somewhere around 40 to 50 dollars a tire. <S> Even if tubes were free, the money is worth saving the hours spent on the side of the road dealing with flats. <S> Look for tires in the 'training' or 'commuting' category, for extra puncture protection. <S> It should go without saying, take care to stay within the rated PSI of the tire when pumping it up. <S> http://www.biketiresdirect.com/product/continental-gatorskin-700c-road-tire <A> Yes, better tires can help prevent punctures. <S> It has already been mentioned that there are tires specifically made to enhance puncture resistance. <S> One thing that has not been mentioned is that better tires also have stronger sidewalls to offer more tire support when going over bumps and thus better protect against pinch flats. <S> (Once, I had a cheap tire with flimsy sidewalls on my back wheel for use on a stationary trainer. <S> I took it out on a road ride properly inflated and got a pinch flat on the first bump I hit.) <S> If you are getting repeated flats, make sure nothing islodged in your tire. <S> A piece of glass or wire that is stuck in thetire will puncture every tube you install until you find andremove it. <S> Avoid debris on the roadways. <S> A lot of people ride in a straight pathover everything they encounter on the road (rocks, pebbles, brokenbottles). <S> Steer around these things. <S> Keep proper air pressure. <S> I know I said that once already. <S> It can't be said enough. <A> If the tube leaks out from under the wire bead it will burst. <S> If you had a cheap tire with a stretched bead that can happen. <S> If it is real easy to slide the tire on the rim that is a bad sign. <S> If that was how the burst happened then a new tire would help. <S> This can happen on even a good new tires if you over inflate too far. <S> If it bursts again the you need to look at the rims. <S> See hook bead on this page bicycle tire
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A few tips whether you replace your tires or not: Keep proper air pressure to avoid pinch flats (i.e., the tirepinching the tube against the rim when hitting a pothole, curb,etc)
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Can I change my large chainring without changing the entire crank? The bike I wanna buy has a 42/34/24 crankset and TX-50 FD, now I was wondering if I could install a 48t(or bigger if possible, do tell) ring upfront while keeping the rest (i.e transforming it to 48/34/24..). Is this possible ? What do I need to adjust ? Thanks <Q> The TX-50 is a tourney level part (bottom of the barrel). <S> If the bike is spec'd with a Tourney derailleur, it is most likely spec'd with a crankset which does not have replaceable chainrings, and you'd need to put on a new crank. <S> As for chainring size, I'm not sure a TX-50 can take a 48t chainring (likely not - you'd have to look at the data sheet, which I also can't find), but most bikes which such a part would be mounted on would have problems with either chainline or actually getting the front derailleur up high enough to clear the chainrings for a 48t. <S> Your options for increasing speed generally on mountain bikes (or bikes with mountain-type groups on them) are: 1) <S> Slick tires 2) <S> Locking out your fork/rigid fork 3) possibly a smaller cassette 4) <S> (Most importantly) Bring up your cadence. <A> You will probably not be able to just exchange the big ring, as that will probably require a new front derailleur. <S> There are quite some people around, complaining for too small front chainrings, when in reality the problem is their low cadence (<70). <S> However, a 42t big chainring could indeed be a problem for road riding. <S> I am familiar only with Schwalbe pricing, and they have Active compound (about 20BGN), performance compound(40BGN+) and evolution compound (60BGN+). <S> Point is, different rubber in the same tire can change the price several-fold. <S> Bottom line: find a bike that is suitable for the way you ware going to be riding it. <S> Replacing new components is more expensive, than buying the bike with those components in the first place. <A> A bigger gear is useful only if you can actually use it. <S> With the 42t & the smallest cog, pedaling at 90rpm, speed will be, approximately, between 24 & 26.5mph depending on the size of the cog. <S> Can you spin the bigger gear, the 48t?You need to know the specs for the front derailleur. <S> The maximum chain-ring size the FD can handle will need to be at least 48t. <S> A FD has a max range of teeth over which it can operate. <S> This is the difference between the small chain-ring and the large chain-ring. <S> Assuming the chain is currently the correct length, you would need a longer chain.
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Otherwise, shifting to the large cog & large chain-ring could cause the chain to become stuck on this gear, damage, or even destroy the rear derailleur. If you really want to go faster on roads, look at a different (road) bike (possibly on the used market).
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How to dress for biking 3 miles to work in 40°F (3°C) and below so not to sweat to much but still keep warm I bike to work. It's about 3 miles. I live in Minnesota. It is getting cold. When it is like 40 and below I bundle up but I sweat and then I am hot so I lose a layer and then freeze. Should I wear like a windbreaker or that under armor stuff? I get to work and my body can not tell if its freezing or sweating. <Q> It depends a lot on you. <S> I live in Illinois and <S> I'll go out in a T-shirt and shorts in the 40's for bike rides. <S> but then you'll feel fine. <S> If you find that a hoodie leaves you cold for the whole ride, maybe add a wind breaker with some ventilating holes. <S> You'll generate some extra heat, so in most cases, the right amount of clothing will make you feel a bit cold for the first few minutes. <S> A ski jacket is way too much bundling for riding in 40 degree weather (given that its probably overkill for even just standing outside). <A> I find that at warmish cold temperatures like the 30s-40sF, the most important thing is to keep my hands and ears warm; the rest of my body takes care of itself after a few minutes of riding. <S> (I am assuming your normal garb does not leave exposed skin other than hands and head/neck. <S> If it does, well, fix that first.) <S> Have a good pair of wind-stopping gloves; experiment with glove liners if the gloves aren't enough. <S> A fleece earband keeps my ears and forehead warm and doesn't get in the way of my helmet, but if that's not enough or your nose complains, try a hoodie, stocking cap, or balaclava. <S> You may find that keeping the wind from stripping heat away is plenty enough for the rest of your body, in which case a standard rain jacket or nylon windstopper will do the job. <S> If it doesn't, try a hoodie or put on a fleece vest or jacket under the rain jacket. <S> (A water-resistant jacket with fleece lining is essentially this; Land's End carries such, among others.) <S> Other minor considerations: <S> Sleeves that are snug at the wrist <S> (e.g. stretchy knit cuffs or buttoned cuffs) keep the wind from sneaking up your forearm. <A> I've found that "soft shell" garments work really well in that temperature range as long as it's not raining. <S> Soft shell fabrics are jack of all trades. <S> They are much more breathable than your typical nylon shell, they are more windproof than a microfleece and with a good DWR <S> they are reasonably good at repelling light rain and snow. <S> My favorite fabric of this type is Schoeller Dryskin, but it's kind of pricy. <S> Polartec Powershell also works pretty well. <S> IMHO, you want to avoid anything that claims to be waterproof/breathable. <S> Even the best versions of these kinds of fabrics are not breathable enough for moderate exercise. <S> WB fabrics (i.e. goretex) have their use, but they are vastly oversold. <A> My commute has always been about that distance, and when temperatures reach around freezing point, I simply wear a ski jacket which has ventilation shafts under the armpits. <S> Opening these helps me a lot from sweating, and you can easily adjust them. <S> Also thin (e.g. running) gloves can help: they break the cold wind, but allow you to transpire. <S> And finally, like in warm weather: don't rush too much. <A> 5 degrees celsiusis is chilly and the main enemy is wind. <S> Those are the areas of the body, that generate a excessive heat: <S> torso head <S> thigh <S> Those are the areas, mostly affected by wind: knees palms front part of the body: breasts, neck, <S> face <S> I would wear: no backpack knee pads, thin gloves <S> wool shirt with long sleeves helmet <S> In colder weather (below freezing) I would add: wind breaker winter gloves ski mask long trousers <S> At below -20C I would add: ski jacket ;p <A> I bought a few wool blend base layer tops and bottoms and a pair of neoprene gloves, all from Costco, which keep me very comfortable down to 40 degrees. <S> As the temperature dips lower, I am experimenting with adding layers. <S> At 34 degrees, I wore two pairs of the base layer bottoms, one on top, plus a very thin windbreaker from REI, which worked very well. <S> I commute about 10 miles each way.
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But if you want some additional warmth in the around 40F and 3 miles, I'd say maybe some thin gloves (I have a set of Underarmour coldgear running gloves which are useful for longer rides in the 30s) and a hoodie - you might be cold for the first 2-3 minutes In general, you shouldn't dress enough to feel warm when you're getting on the bike. Crew or longer socks do the same for your ankles and calves, or failing that, a cycling cuff-band.
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Mechanic says not to use top three/bottom two gears or the chain will throw I just bought a BTwin Fit 5 , all stock, fresh from the distributor, Decathlon. Took it for light pacing at the store and things seemed OK. About 100 metres out the door, I shift up to the top end of the range, pedalling firmly but not hard, and it promptly throws the chain to the outside. Returning to the store, the mechanic puts the chain back on, adjusts the tension on the derailleurs and tells me not to use the top three or bottom two gears (i.e., the 3 highest resistance and two lowest resistance shift positions in the drive train's range), or the chain will throw again. I asked why, but unfortunately, I'm a foreigner and don't speak the local language well enough to understand any of his explanation. Please note I definitely did not misunderstand the bit about not using the gears; this was crystal clear. Wild speculations on what he may have said about the reasons for this: Chain tension or play due to the lateral shift between the inner and outer gears of the front and rear cassettes when shifting Chain length Something about the derailleurs Again, there's a substantial language barrier and I have zero confidence in my understanding of what he said about why I shouldn't use those gears. If you're not familiar with Decathlon, it's a sports department/box/super store. Definitely not a high end or dedicated bike shop. The house mechanic struck me as less than an expert, to put it gently. I've definitely read some reviews online griping about the inability of Decathlon staff to correctly set up the drive trains of new bikes. However, it's important to understand that this quality of expertise is representative of (or better than) that of every shop within an hour's travel. This advice seems utterly mad to me . What on earth could be the reasoning behind this? What can I do about it? Aside from the obvious of taking it to a better mechanic, as that presents substantial difficulty for me on a number of fronts. The bike shifts without a problem, including before the throw. I did test out every gear during my test ride. I haven't yet experimented with trying to reproduce the problem yet; I'll do so in the next few days most likely. The bike has a Shimano Sora groupset and Shimano Deore shifters. I'm an experienced rider but no mechanic; I haven't done anything beyond basic maintenance myself. I can provide additional pictures and am game to make relatively minor adjustments, but even just clearly nailing down the issue would be considerably useful. Additional pictures, shifted to big-big. <Q> You have a double front, right? <S> The usual advice is to not shift into the highest 3 gears in the rear cassette when in front the chain is on the large chainring , and to not shift into the smallest 3 cogs, when the chain in front is on the small chainring. <S> This prevents <S> cross-chaining , which wears the chain quickly, produces noise and difficult shifting. <S> Furthermore, some derailleurs may not even support those extreme combinations, when the chain is crossed. <A> Not using the upper and lower gears is a very effective solution. <S> Stupid, but effective. <S> Traditionally one would simply use the limit screws (at the rear derailleur, often marked L(ow) and H(igh)). <S> Shift to the lowest/highest gear (front and rear) and tighten the screw so that it only allows the mech to move ever so slightly over the edge of the largest/smallest sprocket (Having the screw too tight makes it hard to shift to the lowest/highest gear). <S> More detailed and always a good read: http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html#rear <A> Crossing chaining hasn't been any problem at all since the invention of bushless chains 20 <S> + years ago and wasn't even a real problem back in the ancient days. <S> It's a persistent myth that just won't die... <S> At most I would accept a slight extra noise in the extreme combos(big/big and little/little), but those components were designed to work in all the gear combos. <S> If you are mixing/matching components or running odd size gears, you might run into some problems with derailluer capacity, but any bike stock from the shop should be able to use all it's gears. <A> Are all of those pictures in the same gear? <S> Big in front and 4th in rear? <S> On the picture of the derailleur it is pretty much maxed out giving chain length. <S> Notice it is swung way forward. <S> When you go small small <S> it is the opposite. <S> The derailleur has to take up the maximum amount of chain - swing back. <S> Most likely your derailleur will not take the entire range <S> so you have to stay away from big big and stay away from small small. <S> There are a lot of opinions on cross chaining. <S> I agree with this cross chaining . <S> I almost never to small to small <S> but I will go big to big a lot as on the flats <S> I only need it for a few strokes accelerating from a stop. <S> The small gears on the cassette tend to wear out first <S> so I like to use the big gears when I can. <A> Further to Blam's answer about the position of the pulley (which takes up the slack in the chain), my hybrid/touring bike was recently serviced by a very experienced French shop mechanic of racing bikes. <S> He put on a chain which was too short (i.e. it pulled tight and jammed) if, when I rode it, I cross-chained it onto both big rings: and when I told him that (that that's what happened when I test-rode it) <S> he said, "You're not supposed to do that." <S> He did replace it with a longer chain though. <S> I'm a bit surprised there's a Decathlon near you but no bike shop. <S> Any bike clubs?
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On a side note, the chain should not be dropping in any gear combination, probably the limit screws should be touched a bit, as linac describes. Your bike should leave the shop capable of shifting into any combo of gears possible and riding any amount of time you like in that gear.
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Fairings for an Upright Hybrid Bicycle? Do front fairings have an advantage for upright bicycles? There are fairings for recumbent bicycles such as this Zipper one: I wanted to know if anybody has experienced increase in speed/reduction in air drag with a fairing [with an upright hybrid]. I saw the body of F40 bike( http://www.lightningbikes.com/f40/ ) and I was wondering if such an aero design exists for upright bikes and if doesn't, exist would making such a aero design for upright bike worthwhile? <Q> I have read an article regarding partial fairings for upright bikes . <S> It is interesting that a partial fairing will reduce the energy needed to keep the bike rolling at 35km/h while in a fairly relaxed riding position by about 1/4 (220 watts to about 160 watts)!! <S> (Data sourced to David Gordon Wilson, Bicycling Science , <S> 3rd ed., p.188). <S> So the heck with the speed or rain rationalizations: if you want to travel farther and conserve energy in the process (a.k.a. touring), a partial fairing should definitely be considered! <A> Well one of the main things is that a fairing is pretty inconvenient, say for locking up your bike (and may not be comfortable in a crash). <S> Also, the advantages aren't very high for speed for most bikes, given that you're not moving so quickly -- the main advantage for most people would be that it acts like a larger front fender. <S> But they are made, such as by these people : or in this thread which shows some more aero style fairings. <S> If you want to go faster, get a more aggressive road bike rather than a hybrid and/or pedal faster. <S> For a velomobile or recumbent, the speeds you can reach are higher to begin with, and the locking problem is already big enough that it isn't too bad to add a fairing. <S> You also have a less of a stability problem (say with crosswinds) than on an upright bike which makes the design somewhat simpler. <A> Are you trying to block rain or are you trying to be aerodynamic? <S> For rain, a front fairing doesn't do much unless you can get one where you can tuck your head behind while also going fast enough that the rain blows over you. <S> In Japan, I've ridden mom bikes with fairings and can say that they do zilch for rain until you're going at least 20kph or higher. <S> For aerodynamics, fairings can also act like a sail which can lead to considerable instability. <S> One significantly nice thing on a recumbent is that the fairing will prevent you from eating bugs . <S> Since you're more upright, there is a tendency to consume more than on a road bike where you are facing downwards. <S> If you're planning on an extended trip at high speed (such as a cross-country run) it might be worth it, but otherwise you may find them to be a net disadvantage. <S> Only one way to know though -- try it! <S> p.s. <S> There have been crowdfunded attempts at full fairings but they weren't funded -- I think most people don't think it worth putting something on full-time for something they'd only use on rainy days and which might also block your vision (note lack of windshield wipers). <S> Even bicyclists in Seattle just use rain gear. <A> Fairings work, and work well. <S> I had one, about like the Zipper pictured, on a bike I rode from the west side of Bainbridge to Ballard (Seattle area) and back every day for years. <S> Wind was common on that route, and I was wet as often as not. <A> Zzipper Fairings in the USA make handlebar mount fairings. <S> I've used the same one on and off for 30 years! <S> Great product. <S> So much faster than without.
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I doubt many riders could get a significant advantage from a fairing on an upright bicycle unless they were racing (and if they were racing, they wouldn't be on a hybrid anyway). The fairing was noticeably faster, and more comfortable, than the bare bike.
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Lighting for xtracycle hooptie Does anyone have any lighting suggestions for our Xtracycle hooptie ? We'd like to keep it very visible (precious cargo in there) especially when viewed from the side. Was thinking about an options such as these wrap around lights. Though would prefer something that would make the bike look a little less like a Christmas tree :) <Q> If you go to any reasonably well stocked bike shop (or the bike department of a large department store) they will have a fair assortment of bike lights and reflectors. <S> In particular there are a lot of different battery-powered LED flashers available: <S> Mounting the light/reflector sometimes requires a bit of ingenuity, but you can often do pretty well using a cable clamp from a hardware store to attach to a rack or seat stay (if the light doesn't come with something suitable): <A> You could try something like the fibre flare on either side of the rack <S> They can be found at http://fibreflare.com/ <S> and they also do a range of different colours for the side if you don't want to do red on the side of the rack. <S> http://fibreflare.com/collections/fibre-flare-side-light-colours <A> Why not just a regular seat post rear light on that thick tubing pointed to the side? <S> You can also get small lights on the spokes. <A> My main question is "why is side visibility so important?" If you're riding on a road and you have a good tail light and headlight, you shouldn't have side impacts unless you're running stop lights or stop signs or something. <S> However, there are some options. <S> Scotchlite tape is a fantastic thing, though passive (but with a decent range of angles with visibility). <S> Do note that you shouldn't have enough lighting on the sides to be distracting (like those people in the second picture). <A> You can get tires with reflective sidewalls that are quite effective. <S> We have reflective Schwalbe Marathon tires on our bikes and it makes a significant difference at night for traffic coming from the side. <S> The coverage arc is pretty decent, I'd say at least 90 degrees. <S> The look something like this:
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I'd say use one of the multitude of tail lights, reflectors in your wheels, reflective sidewall tires, or one of the many side lighting systems that are now being sold may be useful.
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Legality of opening someone else's car door? This is in the context of having just been involved in a near miss with the car. And only applies at traffic lights whereby the car is stationary very soon after the near miss. So, generally the near miss is to do with the car pulling across a cycle lane shortly before a set of traffic lights. If their window is open it's easy to speak to the driver in order to elicit a response to "Do you know you nearly just hit me?". If their window is closed it's more difficult. Knocking on the window is one option, and if that's ignored I've been tempted before now to simply open the door. Simply to prevent them from driving away before I've made them aware of their mistake. So, my question is: is it legal, in the UK , to do so? The question of whether or not it's sensible to do so is one for another time. <Q> ( Road Traffic Act 1988 ) <S> There's also the offence of Assault to consider. <S> ( CPS guidelines ) <S> An assault is committed when a person intentionally or recklessly causes another to apprehend the immediate infliction of unlawful force. <S> Aside from the legality question, it's probably worth pointing out that many cars automatically lock the doors once the car starts moving and don't unlock them until the engine is switched off. <A> It sounds dangerous to me on two fronts. <S> The car starts to move and you are down! <S> Road rash at very best. <S> And of course, I can't imagine that it's at all legal. <A> Not too sure whether it is legal or not, however in Australia this kind of incident of careless road use is why cyclists are wearing cameras more and more. <S> I recently got myself a Fly6 camera and have had several near misses since I've had it. <S> Personally I'd knock on the window harder and harder until it opens. <S> They're a laminated glass <S> so it is VERY unlikely that you'll ever smash the window with your knocking; however it will cause the driver to worry about it smashing if they don't open it. <S> Safe riding.
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If you opened someone's car door you could be committing either Dangerous cycling or Careless, and inconsiderate, cycling . It really could go south if the person is at all hostile or has had a lousy day. First of all, you don't know who you're encountering and how you will be received. Secondly, to be on your bike and attempt to open a door, even if your feet are on the ground sounds foolhardy.
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Is bike fit really needed? I'm having neck pains and muscle cramps when I go for long rides (> 90kms) . I don't know if the reason is due to big kms or is it the fit of the bike.I live in India where a bike fit costs 12000 INR($195).Do you suggest me to get a bike fit compulsorily ?? Thanks. <Q> If you are having pain and riding a lot of volume, it makes sense to get a fitting. <S> Your other options are to continue to experience the pain, possibly doing long term damage to your health. <S> reduce your volume of riding get a different style bicycle with a more relaxed and upright geometry. <S> Your fitter may recommend this anyways. <A> You may not need to get a professional bike fit to fix the problem, and the problem may not be fixed by a correct bike fit. <S> If you do not know what the fitter is doing, be prepared to spend $200 for not much improvement. <S> The comment by @Neil "Research bike fit yourself and adjust your bike accordingly. <S> It won't be as good as a pro fitting, but it's definitely better than nothing." <S> Has to be the best advise given to this question. <S> By understanding even a little of the dynamics, you should be able to get a fit that is comfortable, even if not 100% efficient - you may even get it spot on. <S> One advantage of reading up on bike fits is should you end up going to a professional fitter, he will be working with someone who at least has a basic understanding of the problems and compromises, and you will be able to ask intelligent questions and give more accurate feedback. <S> You will be able to more accurately explain the compromises you want <S> (e.g. Setting up for a time trial is not the same as a touring would be, road is somewhere in the middle). <S> For this reason alone, I do not recommend going to a fitter without having a basic understanding of what he will do and a clear understanding of what is important to you. <A> I don't believe a bike fit is a must. <S> While a bike fit may definitely help, I would experiment with the fit myself before resorting to pros. <S> There is a great amount of things you can try yourself (e.g., move the seat, change the handlebar stem, move handlebar spacers, change the crank arms for different length, etc.).
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Even if you get a less than ideal bike fit doing it yourself, making even small changes can result in significant improvement.
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How do I stop punctures for good? Last night I came out of work to a flat tire. This is the second time I've got a puncture with less than 100km done on a brand new set of schwalbe smart sam tires. needless to say I was quite annoyed. The first puncture happened after about 40km and the second was after 95km, last night. It was the same wheel both times. After the first puncture, I checked and double checked for any foreign objects in the tire and rim and I found nothing. I pumped the tire and kept it at about 55psi because I read this is good for avoiding punctures. All this to no avail. I'm just wonder what can I do to stop punctures for good? I'm a heavy guy (about 110kg) so maybe this just isn't possible? I've tried slime before and that was useless. I currently ride on Smart Sam 26" x 2.25 <Q> There are a few things to do. <S> I'd start by reading this link from Sheldon Brown. <S> First determine how the flats are occurring. <S> Inspect the tube. <S> Is the rim tape on the rim properly? <S> (if not, you'll see a puncture on the wheel side) <S> Is the tube <S> being pinch flatted? <S> (a snakebite flat, two very closely placed punctures - usually a sign of too low pressure) <S> When you re-install the tube, are you pinching it between the tire bead and the rim? <S> (You can make a rolling motion over the rim with the tire after its seated to prevent this from happening). <S> If you can't find the puncture easily, pull the tube out of the tire, give it some air and then try to find the hissing. <S> If you can't find the hissing, try passing the tube around your lips or dunk the inflated inner tube into water. <S> If you find some, remove it. <S> If the tube doesn't have any punctures, is the valve good? <S> Sometimes a faulty valve causes pressure loss. <S> You can either re-core the valve in some cases, or more easily just buy a new tube. <S> If you are running such big tires at 55 psi though, I don't think it's low tire pressure -- I've had about 300 pounds of stuff (bicycle, rider, cargo) on a bike with 26x1.9" tires at around those pressures without any problems on some pretty shabby roads. <S> If the first flat was indeed a puncture due to debris, my guess is that you didn't actually get all the debris out. <A> 1) Check and double check for objects in the tire again. <S> Little shards may be completely embedded into the tire. <S> I once had to go through 3 flats, searching every time, before finally finding the little bastard. <S> Bending the tire inwards might help. <S> 2) <S> So if you like the Smart Sam, check out the Smart Sam Plus next time you change tires. <S> I ride another tire with a similar puncture guard on my commuter and didn't had a flat for about 10000 km and counting. <S> Judging by the stuff I find stuck in the tire, the puncture guard has saved me more than a couple of times. <A> A more puncture resistant tyre isn't going to necessarily help in this situation. <S> If you've come out of work and you've got a flat, it seems like a slow leak. <S> If you didn't find anything in the tyre the 2nd time, I would be checking how you've seated the tyre on the rim, have you accidentally pinched the tube a bit, are the valves in good working order, are the tubes the right size for your 29x2.25 tyres? <S> When you're at home and have time and focus I would very carefully check the rim & tape for sharp edges, I would turn the tyre inside out and very thoroughly check for embedded objects or grit floating around in the tyre. <S> Further to this, check your tube to see what the puncture looks like (single hole, snake bites, etc). <S> If the tube has already been patched, then ditch it and put a fresh tube in. <S> As a side note on checking the tube and tyre for objects and puncture cause, you could mark the tube with a piece of chalk where the valve is so that when you take it all apart you can line the valve up with where it was on the tube so you can more easily inspect the tube puncture site on both the tyre (inside it) and the rim. <S> I find this can be helpful to quickly identify the most likely site of tyre/rim damage. <S> But simply the best way to never get a puncture on a bike again is, don't ride. <S> But we all know that isn't going to happen is it. <A> Walmart was selling foam inserts that would replace the tube. <S> This would eliminate any chance of a puncture. <S> The disadvantage was weight. <S> The one I handled was about 50% heavier then a convenrtional tire and tube.
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Check the inside and outside of the tire for any embedded debris, carefully. Many manufacturers make kevlar belted tires which have stronger puncture resistance (such as the Schwalbe Marathon Plus), but if your punctures are happening due to rim tape or something, then its not going to help. The Smart Sam exists in a "Plus" version with a 3 mm puncture guard.
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Can I drop-in a compact crank set with my current 105 groupset I live near a lot of hills and am fairly new to biking. In my lowest gear I still can't keep up at an efficient pedal rate on the hills. I found out they sell "compact cranksets" which in addition to having a different bolt pattern have fewer teeth (50/34 vs 53/39). Can I simply replace my old crank set (Shimano 105 5600, 53/39) with a new 56xx or 57xx compact crank? I'd expect to have to take a few links out of my chain too, but other than than can I keep my shifter and derailleur? <Q> You are right to say that the compact crankset will give you smaller gears to help you get over hills. <S> If you currently have a 5600 crankset, then you are absolutely safe to swap for another 5600 (compact) crankset. <S> Now, the compatibility between different Shimano ranges is governed by the number of sprockets on the cassette, and the good news for you is that both 5600 and 5700 are 10-speed. <S> 5800 is an 11-speed system, you could probably get away with using this crankset (since the differences are small), but it will not fit as perfectly as 5600/5700. <S> So, looking at Shimanio's site , the part you need is either the FC-5750, or the FC-5650. <S> The "50" appears to denote compact. <S> Lastly, do you know what length your cranks are? <S> It might be worth measuring this just so that you get the same length with the new crankset. <S> (You'll see on the Shimano site that things are available in four different lengths, the differences between each are small but they will affect your fit.) <S> Here's an example of what you're measuring: <A> You can drop in a compact crankset which has Hollowtech II compatibility. <S> Otherwise, you can remove the existing bottom bracket and install a new one compatible with the crankset you buy. <S> This site gives you a guide to all the bottom bracket types you can install in your frame (look under conventional threaded), in case you find you want to switch to another make of crankset. <S> There are some other options though (which may be cheaper): 1) <S> If you can live with a 50-39, you can find a 50t outer ring with the 130 BCD. <S> This may be a bit cheaper, but you still need to adjust the FD. <S> 2) You can put on a bigger rear cassette. <A> You'll need the FC-5650 chainring and crankarms. <S> Reusing the BB should be OK. <S> Yep shifter and derailleur is compatible but you will probably need to adjust the front derailleur down the seat tube to accommodate for the smaller front chainring.
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You can do a straight swap of the crankset, everything else will be compatible, although will need readjustment. So, basically, 5600 or 5700 cranksets will fit you perfectly (as would any other Shimano 10-speed road crankset). If you have a short cage or medium cage rear derailleur, this may require a long cage rear derailleur (e.g. a 9 speed deore).
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can i use a 700c tire (Gatorskin 700c x23) on a 650 wheel I am thinking of getting some Velocity Rims that are 650c but I am wondering if I will be able to use my 700x23c Gatorskin tires on them? Also what do you think about 650c wheels pros and cons. Also, lets say I just buy the 650 rims do I need to change anything else in the bike? I have a Fuji Newest 3.0, I think the 2008 version, if that helps. <Q> No you will not be able to use your 700x23c tire on a 650c rim. <S> The bead seat diameter of 700c rims is 622mm, this will also be the bead diameter of the your 700x23c tire. <S> The bead seat diameter of a 650c rim is 571mm (see Velocity's Spec section ). <S> Your 700x23c tire will be 51mm too wide. <A> As an owner of both 650c and 700c-wheeled bikes will happily share my thoughts. <S> First of all, 650c wheels are lighter and obviously smaller which makes the whole ride more dynamic which can improve your maneuverability. <S> On the other hand, 650c wheels are prone to sliding on stones or corners so you must be more careful when riding. <S> 650c wheels spin faster so be ready to change tires sooner than on 700c bike. <S> Most makers make good tires for both 650 and 700 wheels, but 700 are more popular and therefore you end up with better choice. <S> When it comes to wheels the picture is even grimmer... <S> However, it just takes little more searching - many makers produce 650c versions of their wheels too. <S> Changing wheels from 700c to 650c is in usually bad idea, because you will have to move brakes (usually impossible) and most likely the bottom part of your bracket will be too low and pedals too close to the ground to use them. <A> Best place to look is Sheldon Brown's famous site. <S> http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html <S> I would suggest given the difference in diamaeter you will run into issues attempting to put your 700x23c tyres on a 650c rim. <A> This may possibly lead to that you have to change the brake. <S> Check how much you can lower the brake pad. <A> Ahh, no. <S> The rims are different sizes, 700 vs 650, so obviously each will take a different size tire. <S> Why do you want to change to a smaller wheel?Brakes likely will not reach rim. <S> Bicycle would be closer to ground.
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The size difference between 700 and 650c wheels is very significant so there's no way to fit 700c tires onto 650c wheels. For the question in the comment: You will have to move the brake pad a bit further down to adapt to the smaller rim.
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First cyclocross race - how to choose and set up the bike I have never raced but there is a cyclocross race at a park near me next weekend. All it said is some sand and some drop offs. I would like some advice on selecting a bike and setting it up. I have Bianchi Cylcocross Concept and Salsa La Cruz Ti. They are both Ultegra and greared the same 48/39 12-28. Both cantilever and weigh about the same.The concept is my workout bike and the Salsa by daily banger / commuter. The Concept feels faster but the Salsa feels more stable.I also feel like the Salsa can take a crash better. So my thought is the Salsa. I take it they race with cleats? For a first race should I cleat. I am comfortable with cleats. I have touring tires on them now but I have some Conti 32 Twister. Would they be OK? Would I run them at max pressure? I weigh 165. I also have a Niner Air 9 Carbon single speed mountain bike with carbon fork, disc brakes, and tubeless.I am not comfortable on big drop off on my cyclcross. I rode the park on four set ups. With 32 mm it was just too fast for me. There are some downhills with rocks that I would need to run at max pressure and even not in a group picking my line I was not comfortable. The Air 9 was super stable but not very fast. I rode the park 15 minutes each direction and if the long hill is uphill then the single speed is not geared correctly but I am pretty sure they will have us ride down that hill. The Salsa with 38 mm small block at mid pressure felt stable but still has a speed. As far as cleats. I would not want to ride the downhills without em. Getting bounced hard enough that need bike attached. <Q> I run 35mm clinchers and get to each race early to pre-ride a lap or two to dial in my pressure, typically will run 28-34 psi depending on how rocky the course is, I don't want to pinch flat, but really like the lower pressure as each lap it typically gets more and more muddy <S> and you want the grip, especially on the off camber sections. <S> Cleats or no cleats is going to be more about your comfort getting in and out as you will get on/off the bike to carry up stairs/run-ups, through sand pits and barriers. <S> This is about speed getting unclicked and clicked back in and right up to speed. <S> Search on You Tube for cyclocross mounting. <S> You did not mention disc brakes, but with rim brakes, the sand will mix with the mud and wear your brake surface. <S> If short and fast I'll ride the sand pits, if running I carry my bike, so go with the lighter bike. <S> Many races have a 'pit' area for you to leave extra wheels, or even a different bike, so bring both bikes, get there <S> early take a lap on each and race the one you like better. <S> Put the other bike in the pits and switch if you get a mechanical or pinch flat. <S> If this happens far away from the pits, you must run the course with your broken bike - you cannot leave course and take a shortcut, fix or switch and then get back on course. <A> Just a note about tire width, UCI use to allow 35mm width tires, they recently (in the last few years) decreased that to 33mm. <S> Odds are this won't have any influence on the races you are doing, but 34mm use to be a very popular cross size for racing. <S> Now there are leftover <S> 34mm cross tires on sale lots of places because they can't be used in UCI races. <A> Rode my first race today and with the experience of the race will answer my question. <S> The route was not as technical as I thought it was going to be. <S> I wish I had gone with a faster set up. <S> 35 mm would have been fine. <S> Go with the lowest tire pressure <S> you think you can get away with. <S> And I wish I had gone with the Bianchi. <S> It feels a little longer on me and the hard parts of the course were some downhill switchbacks. <S> But I finished both races 40 yards behind the rider in front of me <S> so a different set up would not have made a difference. <S> There were a lot of very nice bikes. <S> Tubular tires are common. <S> But I am not going to spend money on wheels. <S> Once I can finish in the top 1/3 is when I will spend money to go faster.
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Most cyclocross tires are 33-35mm and with tubulars (glued to the rim) many will run very low pressures (20-22 psi). Many courses have run-ups and barriers to carry your bike, so go with the lighter bike.
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Rear shifting - Unable to shift to toughest gear I was adjusting my rear shifting following the advice in this video: It was when I took off the wire tension and screwed the high limit all the way out that the chain wouldn't make it to the toughest gear. Instead it was stuck at the second-toughest gear. So it seems that even without the wire pulling on the derailleur, it is too far on the left (i.e. towards the easier gears). What could I try to track down the problem, or better, what exactly is causing this and how can I fix this? I was then continuing to adjust the derailleur, making the chain switch to my second-toughest gear when I try to shift to the toughest gear with the shifter at my handlebars and making the chain switch to my easiest gear when I try to shift to my second-easiest gear. This worked fine and the chain is currently not skipping gears on its way up or down, it just can't reach the toughest gear. <Q> The first thing to do with any rear derailleur problem is to check if its bent. <S> If its not bent, then try adjusting it. <S> If you can't reach the smallest cog with the cable released (assuming a typical non-rapid rise derailleur, i.e. one which goes to the smallest with no cable tension), it likely means your high limit screw is mis-adjusted (too tight). <S> [Typically, the problem upshifting into the smallest cog is usually a bent derailleur/cable friction, but you should have eliminated those two options before you got to this]. <S> Some good tutorials for adjusting derailleurs are Sheldon Brown and Park tool . <A> Take a close look at the limit screw - is the derailleur actually hitting it? <S> If that's the case, you might be able to replace the spring, but unless it's a really expensive derailleur, you're better off just replacing the whole thing. <A> Just as Batman said, check the derailleur is not bent. <S> If it isn't, but you still can't get the smallest cog I'd be looking to check if the mech hanger is bent. <S> But if you're bike shop is checking the alignment of the mech, they should be able to spot if the mech hanger is bent or twisted at the same time. <S> Hope <S> you get it sorted!
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If it is bent, go to your LBS and see if it can be unbent (there is a special tool for checking unbent-ness, Park Tool DAG-2 or similar) -- bent derailleurs cannot be adjusted properly in most cases (and even a minor spill can cause a bent derailleur). If not, then it's possible that the spring which pulls it to the right is worn out.
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Carbon fibre vs aluminium for racing I've been commuting on a mountain bike these past 3 years. Now I want to get into road bike racing. Is it worth saving up money over a few months for a carbon fibre bike? Or should I just go and buy a good quality aluminum bike tomorrow? <Q> There are two answers to this question: (Money no object) <S> Go out and buy yourself a carbon frame with all the trimmings. <S> If you want to race, there is no better hardware option. <S> (Money important) <S> you say you haven't even begun to race yet. <S> How do you know you'll like it? <S> How do you know you'll be any good? <S> If you go down a carbon route, you're talking about a serious investment which could possibly end up gathering dust in your garage. <S> Frankly, you should consider a steel bike at this stage. <S> When you're losing races because of the weight of the bike, then it's time to upgrade. <S> Be careful with something like bike racing, it will eat up your every last penny if you're not careful. <A> A good rule of thumb is: if you spend less than $2000 get aluminium instead of carbon as you'll get more bang for your buck. <S> The slight performance/comfort benefits of a more expensive carbon bike are of no concern to an entry-level racer. <S> The most gains for you will simply come from more regular and longer rides. <A> For a novice racer, frame material doesn't matter. <S> As for the groupset, Tiagra's fine. <S> The differences in Shimano's groupsets is mainly weight, plus so durability. <S> I'm speaking from experience here- <S> I would swear that my Tiagra equipped cross bike shifts better than my Dura-Ace road bike!
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A good quality aluminium frame with some nicer wheels will generally give a better/faster ride than an entry-level carbon bike (bought just for the sake of having carbon!).
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What is the use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers Can any one let me know what is the exact use of GPS/Elevation on Bike computers(EDGE 500,510 or TIMEX 2.0)? I ride with a SIGMA BC 16.12 (with CADENCE) and POLAR HRM. I check my elevation using STRAVA. One reason that i can think of is all these data collated onto one graph for post ride analysis. Apart from the above reason, is there any advantage of GPS/Elevation detail during the ride? Thanks <Q> Ever had that "this has to.... be the top.... <S> oh sh$% <S> .... it's a crest.... <S> there's more...." feeling. <S> Knowing altitude lets you pace your climb and arrive the the top without over (or under) doing it. <S> Imagine riding flat roads without knowing speed or distance - it can be done, but to maximize training effort or race performance <S> you need to know speed/distance on the flat and altitude/climb rate on the hills. <A> Historical Contingency Looking to history earlier versions (e.g., Garmin Edge 305 and Edge 705 ) came with barometers for elevation. <S> This was long before Strava, and during a time when you did all the analyses on your own computer. <S> And at the time accurate and free elevation maps were not as ubiquitous. <S> In terms of marketing, when you release the next generation of devices (e.g., Edge 800, 810, 1000 etc) it may not look good removing features as people love to compare specs without thinking about why they may need a spec. <S> Some Real World Uses <S> When I used to race, I found getting real time road grades helpful. <S> One example that stands out was a long false flat on one course (a false flat, looks flat but has a subtle elevation gain). <S> Physiologically it was demoralizing. <S> I found being able to confirm I was on a false flat by looking at the grade output helped greatly as it gave me the confidence to attack hard even though I felt slow. <S> The attack proved instrumental, securing a solo breakaway win. <S> It helps to put a slow day in perspective (if you are trying to cover large distances), or tuned me into cutting a day short due to the volume of climbing. <S> Often you don't have access to the internet camping <S> so real-time elevation can be useful here too. <S> Conclusion <S> Apart from these reasons there is no one overwhelming reason (IMHO) to insist on having a barometer with a GPS computer, but that said it can be nice to have if it is there. <A> I find when climbing that horizontal speed is fairly meaningless but vertical speed can be quite helpful for keeping you going and/or interesting. <S> When you know a climb is 1000m and your computer says whatever-kmh, you've no idea what that means without maths and knowing the gradient <S> , 1000vmh means an hour to go, 500vmh, 2 hours... <S> and so on. <A> If your GPS bike computer doesn't include a map[1] <S> and you're navigating from a topo map, having the elevation can be very useful for making route decisions. <S> In the bad old days before ubiquitous GPS, by far the most useful navigation tool in the mountains for me was a barometric elevation watch. <S> That and a topo map was my go to tool 90% of the time. <S> Of course, if you're not in the mountains, it's not much help. <S> [ <S> 1]- <S> Or even if it does, most bike computer GPS displays don't have enough detail for when the going gets tricky in the mountains. <A> In addition to the answers above, vertical measurement increases the gps accuracy of your x/y coordinates. <S> If a GPS unit has terrain data stored, it will be able to have a more confident match for its stated x/y coordinates based on the addition of that extra altitude variable. <S> For example, if the unit has two possible coordinates for you, one being a 55% match and the other being 45%, then you will get placed at the first point with low confidence. <S> If the altitude of those two points matches closely to your altitude variable read, then the unit can select a point with much more confidence.
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In touring I loved being able to track my total elevation gain for the day. Some analysis software supported getting elevation data from other sources, others didn't.
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Gear to protect against hand injury in a crash I commute to work a few miles on my bike in the city. Today someone walked out in front of me and I squeezed the brakes too hard and went over the handlebars. I suffered a mild elbow fracture because I put my arms out in front of me and the palms of my hands are destroyed. I started thinking, I have had several incidents while commuting (mostly in snow or on leaves) and I almost always get hand injuries as a result. I'd like to get gloves that protect my hands. But: I don't want the gloves to make injury to elbows, arms, head, scaphoid, or anything else greater. That is, they shouldn't stick to the asphalt too hard nor slide too much (I think...I'm open to suggestion) They should be comfy to ride. I can have a separate pair for winter and summer riding. I'd prefer if they were tough enough to withstand a few falls without taking too much damage. I'm always on roads and bike paths, so asphalt is the only landing consideration. I'm not sure what kind of stuff to get. Cycling gloves seem like they are mostly leather and it seems like they would be damaged from a fall like I just had. Motorcycle gloves seem heavier duty and have more protection, but I don't know how they would have affected this situation. That is, I'm very glad my hands are hurt and face/head/shoulders are fine. Is damage to wrists or scaphoid bone a serious concern? If so, are there good gloves for that? I'd love some suggestions. Edit: BTW My commute is only like 20 minutes each way per day. Long distance issues are not of concern for me. <Q> Thankfully I never ride without gloves. <S> The light weight gloves with padded leather in the palms is all you need - they are cheap, comfortable and effective - what more could you ask for. <S> I had a crash after my bike was tampered with and the front wheel fell off. <S> I am a programmer, and although I emptied the company first aid kit of dressings, and could not walk properly or bend my elbow for days, I could still type. <S> Had I not been wearing gloves, I would have been off work for weeks. <S> As I see it, if you damage the leather enough to make the gloves unserviceable, and walk away - keep walking - straight to you lottery shop. <S> Leather is tough and slide - in my case the gloves, which took the full impact of my fall, had no visible damage - unlike my shoulder, elbow and hip.... <S> Any bone damage is a problem - if you don't want it, don't fall off. <S> .... <S> You could wear body armour but its no guarantee..... <S> Edit: <S> Since writing this many years ago, I have taken up Martial Arts with my children (I am over 50). <S> The techniques taught have helped enormously in a couple Mountain biking falls I have had, including one where I went 'over the bars'. <A> There is plenty of advice about gloves under the Gloves tag . <S> See especially the question <S> "What's the purpose of cycling gloves?" <S> and one of the answers . <S> From which you see that I recommend ordinary cycling gloves. <S> Your purpose is their purpose. <S> But I suggest that while you should be wearing gloves, you also should pay attention to how you ride, and where you ride. <S> On a bike, as you have discovered, you are vulnerable. <S> Ride according to the conditions. <S> Commuting is actually quite dangerous, because we tend to ride in a wider range of conditions: wet, windy, icy, leafy, greasy, heavy traffic, poor visibility, pedestrians, skateboarders, rollerbladers, other cyclists. <S> Every one of those should cause us to change our riding to match, usually by slowing down, sitting up, and looking for options. <S> As a cyclist, I always think I have to take 100% total responsibility for my safety - because it's me who'll get hurt. <S> Every time you have (or had) an incident (don't call them accidents), think through what you could have done to avoid it. <S> Autumn leaves will fall in Autumn. <S> Pedestrians will walk out when you can't see them (because they can't see you). <S> Cars will change lanes without indicating. <S> Sounds like I must ride like a little old lady, but the opposite is the case. <S> However, in the last 30 years I've had only 3 crashes. <S> In retrospect, I realized that each one could have been avoided by paying more attention to the conditions and situation. <S> Also rethink those incidents where you didn't crash. <S> Yesterday, I took a downhill negative camber corner faster that I ever have. <S> I suddenly found I was sliding - my front tire had developed a leak and didn't have enough grip anymore. <S> Fortunately , there was no oncoming traffic, I stayed upright, and was able to stop. <S> But I'm thinking - what were the warning signs? <S> I was already taking a risk - how could I have reduced it? <S> Take care out there and ride according to the conditions. <A> Maybe try Downhill Mountain Biking gloves. <S> Downhill doesn't suffer the same weight considerations as road cycling, so the gear is generally much tougher and designed to offer protection in some pretty terrifying crashes. <S> The best pair I had were designed with gel-pads at the heel of the hand, which cushioned any impacts...of which I had a few. <S> Snowboarding wrist guards are an option also, they contain a hard plastic strip running up the bottom of the forearm, however I've never tried cycling in a pair <S> so I'm not sure how comfortable they would be. <S> They'd possibly prevent wrist injury from hitting the floor. <S> Consider tyre choice when it's snowy or during periods of leaf-fall.
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Wearing big heavy gloves might protect you hands, but downhill riders and motorcyclists that wear these also wear full face helmets and body armour - unless you do the same you will come off and although your hands will be fine, the rest of you won't be. You can learn to fall to minimize injury - downhiller riders are the masters of this, question is - can you be bothered as the only real way to learn is to do it
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What are the practical limitations of a road bike compared to a mountain bike? I grew up on a big box store mountain bike. I want to get a road bike for my commute, but I'm curious about the limitations I'll experience. I know the benefits of a road bike: lighter weight, less rolling resistance, aerodynamic riding position, etc. But I want to learn about the limitations: I'm mainly concerned with the ability to hop up and down from curbs and occasionally riding through some mulch and grass. Is a road bike's frame less tough than that of a mountain bike? On my cheap mountain bike, I can (though I usually don't) hop over and down from curbs at full speed. Would I have to be more ginger with the road bike or would curb-hopping be recommended against altogether? Would the drop bars make it difficult to hop over curbs at all? And would a road bike's tires be unsuitable for anything off-road? Any other limitations? <Q> Honestly hopping curbs isn't something that I would consider as an important factor to consider in choosing a bike for commuting. <S> Riding a road bike <S> it's almost always faster to just stick to the road, and if you do way to exit the roadway <S> it's rare that you will have to travel more than a few seconds before there's a driveway. <S> Still, YMMV - I don't know your route. <S> Roadbike frames are fine, it's the wheels that will go first. <S> Don't get silly 16 spoke wheels to commute on. <S> There are a couple of things to be aware of with a roadbike though: crossing small rises at acute angles - with skinny tyres when you roll up a small bump at an acute angle (ie. <S> across the edge of a footpath that is raised above the surrounding grass) if you hit it at too fine an angle your wheel will skid off and straighten out whilst your momentum continues over the bump - resulting in a stack. <S> bottom bracket/crank clearance is less than on a mtb - be careful pedalling through bumps/corners. <A> Since I don't ride a MTB <S> my answer is just about road bike capabilities. <S> What you can do on your road bike comes down to two main things the size of it's tires your skills <S> These factors do interact: with greater skills you can do more on any given equipment. <S> Tires come in a range of sizes (as I'm sure you are aware). <S> For the kind of riding you propose I recommend at least 25mm. <S> The idea is that tires soak up the impacts. <S> But it's your skills that are the key. <S> It's not the size of the kerb or jump, it's how soft you land. <S> While I would not recommend going up onto kirbs faster than a brisk walking pace (just manual the front up and the rear will follow), jumping down from kirbs at speeds of 30kph is fine. <S> Just steer straight and try to land softly (that means weight on bars and pedals only). <S> Landing both wheels together is better for the wheels. <S> You can also do jumps over obstacles or potholes. <S> Edit: <S> This previous answer describes how to do jumps on a road bike. <S> Some other answers to that question are also relevant to this question. <S> You mentioned mulch and grass. <S> 25mm tires will be fine for that. <S> Before mountain bikes were invented we used road bikes for that all the time. <S> Such tires will also handle sand and gravel. <S> You also wondered about drop bars. <S> Never found them to be an issue. <S> But make sure you keep plugs in the bar ends for safety. <S> One last comment: I would recommend a steel frame for this heavier riding. <S> Enjoy. <A> Road bike will bang / jump - what ever you want to call it MartynRoadBikes2 <S> Frames and wheels are just as strong Road Bike Party 2 <S> - The Making Of Martyn Ashton's Colnago C59 Disc <S> On tires you lose the flotation and traction of a bigger tire. <S> And a smaller tires is more susceptible to pinch flats. <S> You have to be careful with a 25mm tire <S> but as you can see in the video they push it pretty hard. <A> A road frame is not as strong as a MTB frame, but for regular commuting that just doesn't matter. <S> Consider getting a cyclocross bike. <S> On pavement, it's almost as fast as a road bike, but it's got enough room for fenders and wider tires, which will make the ride a little more comfortable.
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But for commute I would recommend a cyclocross and and put touring tires on it. If you find that you are bending your rims, the first thing to try regarding equipment is bigger tires, then tougher rims.
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How to transport bulky things on a bike I am a hobby musician and would like to transport my instruments on my bike because there are just a few parking lots and it is too far to walk. Is there a good and safe way to carry a trombone, several stands, and sheet music on a normal bike? <Q> This is quite tricky, given a trombone is not a nicely shaped instrument. <S> You can try some larger racks, or mount some plywood or something to a smaller rack to try to get a more stable surface to carry the trombone (or be able to build something that allowed carrying the trombone like a pannier), but I doubt it will be very good, especially with all the additional stuff you want to carry. <S> I do know some cellists who have strapped their cello to their backs and ridden (somehow), but I don't think it was a particularly stable or safe solution. <S> The real solution I think is for you to get a cargo bike. <S> One thing you might want to try is to do an Xtracycle conversion - <S> the Freeradical was a kit which allowed you to extend a normal bike into a cargo bike (but is currently not being sold -- you may be able to find an existing bike/kit somewhere thoguh). <S> Unfortunately, cargo bikes like the Surly Big Dummy and what not are not exactly cheap (and are not normal bikes), but your use case is pretty much what the cargo bike was designed for. <S> An example of a Freeradical conversion is: and a xtracycle carrying another bicycle <S> Note that there are other styles of cargo bikes out there, like the Civia Halstead: <S> Another option is to throw the trombone and what not into a small trailer, such as one of those children's trailers like this (a cheap one will be about 150 bucks): or attach a regular bike trailer like the Surly Ted (about 700 bucks for this model, but there are cheaper ones): <A> Use a Gig Bag that you can use as a backpack. <S> Thats what they are there for, and it seems there exist some for trombone with enough extra space for stands and sheets (check before you buy). <S> I use a baritone saxophone gig bag on my bike ( an older version of this one ). <S> While it may look a bit oddly proportioned on me (115cm in height; the bag, not me), it works perfectly fine for relatively short distances (5km are fine). <S> As trombones weight significantly less than a baritone saxophone ( <S> ~2kg vs 6kg, my fully loaded bag weights in at 13.5kg), I don't think it would be a problem. <S> I do use a cargo trailer when I have to transport multiple instruments and non-folding stands. <S> The baritone sax stays on my back though ... <S> it's too large for my trailer :( <A> In the Netherlands, and other places, precious cargo is often transported in a 'bakfiets'. <S> This test has photos of several (and a good test in Dutch) <S> so I do not favor one over any other. <S> The traditional bakfiets in the Netherlands is quite big, you can transport a baby grand piano in them, and some do to play outside. <S> The modern ones are smaller and handle like a normal bike, although some are trikes and handle as trikes not much bigger than a bike. <A> I used to carry a small acoustic guitar (OO sized) by attaching it like a pannier to the rear rack. <S> The neck of the guitar went straight up. <S> I would think that you could do something similar with a trombone. <S> I can't quite picture a trombone case, but it seems like it might actually fit in a pannier which would make it very easy. <S> Are the stands folding music stands? <S> It seems like they might fit in a pannier or could be strapped on a rack. <S> The sheet music could go in a portfolio or binder in a pannier.
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If you wanted you could use something like the pannier mounting hardware from Arkel to modify a case to attach to your racks like a pannier. There are also transporter bikes with enclosed front boxes but those are often just that bit bigger that finding a parking spot is not easy.
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Key Stuck in bike lock! My key has snapped off in my bike lock and I'm wondering if bolt cutters are going to do the job and if not what else will? Its this lock that I have: <Q> Angle grinder is the preferred tool of bike thieves. <A> Use a metal pick and pull the broken key out. <S> You can make a pick out of a paper clip, hair pin, or anything that has harden metal. <S> This way you can use the 2nd key that came with the lock and don't have to buy a new one. <A> The cable in the picture appears to have pieces of hardened steel tube around the cable (under the plastic cover). <S> This is to discourage hacksaws and bolt cutters. <S> A bolt cutter might still work, but you're probably better off with an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. <A> Got bolt cutters, a fair size and they couldn't get through it! <S> Seems the lock was stronger than we thought. <S> In the end it was a good old fashioned hammer and chisel into the key chamber that did the trick, managed to shift it round into the unlock position :D <A> The best option would be to ask the police or something to cut the lock for you. <S> Bolt cutters or even possibly some wire snips after cutting away some of the plastic around the cable should easily cut that cable as it looks quite cheap. <S> Before trying this though, you may want to see if you can use some needlenose pliers or something to remove the key and use the other key. <S> Invest in a better lock next time, as well. <S> See this question as well (along with some of the other questions in the side bar like this one . <A> You may be able to use the stub of the broken key to operate the lock and unlock your bike (after putting in some lube).
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Either way, you should either take it to a locksmith to pull out the key (and perhaps make a duplicate to replace the broken one) or just get a new bike lock with stronger keys.
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Should I grease press fit attachments? When two parts are press fit together (e.g., headset cup and head tube, crank arm and bottom bracket, etc.) is it proper to grease the surfaces that will fit together, or not? <Q> if you are using a high-end aluminum-shell BB, then get the "press-fit" specific Loctite and use that. <S> this stuff is made for press-fit applications and holds well without any creeks. <S> I put it in for my Cervelo R5 and a ceramic-speed BB and it is perfect over 3 years later. <S> If you are using those cheap, plastic cups, then grease and go. <A> If it helps any, I replaced a press-fit bottom bracket on a carbon-framed bike last year. <S> So, such a thing definitely exists. <S> I wasn't going to lube it, but when I removed the old (factory) <S> bb, there were traces of grease down there, so I cleaned and re-lubed it. <S> Before I did anything to the bike, I did look around for some guidance on what I should be doing, but found nothing. <S> To get to the bb I had to get through the crank, which was pressed into place - it was a bit more of a no-brainer to lube that along the way as I think the advice is a bit more consistent (although I used a different lube). <A> I can't imagine any reason not to lube a part that's going to be pressed into place. <S> It will make the pressing easier with less damage to the materials and there's no way it will lead to the part sliding out somehow. <S> Parts that are designed to be pressed into place need a whole lot more than lube to be pushed out of place. <A> This is because of the long term rotations that are going to occur, and you want cranks to spin as freely in the BB as they can. <S> As for other things like BB into the frame and headset, the reading I have done doesn't indicate that the BB needs to be greased prior to installation like you would a threaded BB; nor do headset cups into a headset. <S> Park Tool have a couple of good tutorials for these two items ( http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/bb90-bb86-bb92-etc-bottom-bracket-service & http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/threadless-headset-service ) <S> Ultimately the reason you don't need to grease/lubricate those items at installation is because they don't move within the frame. <S> The bearings will move inside each of the items. <S> I.e. BB bearings rotate inside the BB shell and you will install headset bearings inside the cups. <S> So it is the rotating parts that you would grease. <S> The reason threaded BBs should be greased is to assist in the installation of them as the rotate into position (i.e. thread onto the frame).
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So ultimately there is no need to, however it shouldn't cause any harm if you do grease them before installation. The crank arm should definitely be lubed before installing into a bottom bracket.
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Problems with Edge 510 Cadence/Speed Sensor I have been looking online for a while on how to fix a bug with my Garmin Edge 510 Cadence/Speed sensor but no luck, and now I'm indoors training it's more important that it works (so I can get "speed" data to approximate power). It often drops out as in this ride and this ride for example. It seems I'm not the first to encounter this problem but I'm struggling to find a solution. Is there a fix? <Q> I also have an Edge 510 (since ~3 months) with the same sensor, but I have not experienced this. <S> I have recently updated to the latest firmware, which often solves similar issues with power readings. <S> Since you were riding at quite low temperatures, the capacity of the battery does decrease, but since the speed reading is fine I would not suspect the battery if the sensor/battery is not old (?). <S> There is a line/groove on both the sensor and the magnet <S> -- check that they still line up properly. <S> Check <S> also that the sensor is installed in the correct orientation: the battery cover faces the wheel in my case. <S> You should also verify if the sensor also acts this way when used indoors at room temperature. <A> Try re-pairing the 510 with the speed/cadence sensor. <S> It seems like it's not connected and the speed data is coming from the GPS rather than the sensor. <S> As suggested by others, the alignment of the speed/cadence sensor is important, but it must be close since you seem to get a little cadence data before it drops out. <S> Perhaps it's too close and your crank or spoke magnet has actually bumped the sensor and pushed it away? <A> I had to switch bikes for a major climb and transferred the ANT and sensors to my other bike. <S> After that nothing worked. <S> The 510 found no sensors to pair with. <S> I tried searching for other compatible devices and it also found nothing. <S> When searching for speed/cadence sensor it prompted me for sensor number for which I did not have and never entered before. <S> The LED was flashing on ANT when pickups were in play on bike stand... <S> I put a fresh battery in ANT and no improvement. <S> Fix: downloaded firmware update from Garmin to 510. <S> Not sure why this worked but it did. <S> Now it found the ANT but wouldn't log cadence. <S> The physical characteristics of this Fuji compared to the Specialized that the ANT was transferred from were just enough so that the ANT had to be angled outboard to "see" the cadence pickup clearly. <S> After that it worked great but sucked that it was so marginal in sensitivity. <S> But I guess you need that in a peloton with a lot of magnetics in close proximity...
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I did have a similar thing happen with my Edge 500, and re-pairing the sensor seemed to fix it.
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How to avoid running over animals whilst cycling on a canal at night? I commute on a towpath in Hertfordshire, England and there is ample amount of wildlife about. During the day it's fine, I can see ducks, squirrels and rabbits in time and slow down if I need to. However at night it seems to be a problem as I occasionally have close calls with particularly what I believe are squirrels and rabbits trying to cross the towpath as I'm approaching. I believe they see me rather too late sometimes and despite my front lights and intermittent signalling with the bell I've not been able to mitigate that. It goes without saying that I see them especially late. Particularly problematic are blind sports just before a turn. It doesn't help that often there are no other light sources apart from my lights. Has anyone run into a similar problem and has any tips? <Q> My commute brings me through a park with a lot of rabbits (or similar animals, not a zoologist here) and it has been rather close a few times ... <S> I use a head lamp when driving there at night for two reasons: <S> It allows me to see through turns much better <S> The eyes of animals reflect directly back at you, which helps to see them a little earlier <S> All that does not help when they jump out of the shrubs directly in front of you. <S> It doesn't happen a lot, but I have seen dead rabbits on the path a few times. <S> (No dead cyclists yet) <A> Would making more noise (without being obnoxiously loud) be an answer? <S> Constantly twiddling a bike bell would be distracting, but a few jingle bells you could hang on your bike or gear might help alert the critters that you're coming. <A> Gotta say I agree with Chris Pink (who'd a thunk it, if it's the same Chris Pink from a certain boaty forum) <S> I've never hit an animal on the towpath. <S> Sounds to me like you are not riding to the conditions. <S> Yelling out before going around a blind corner... <S> Are you going slow enough to stop? <S> As for being too strapped for cash to get a decent light, that's just daft. <S> If you ride unlit towpaths regularly then get a suitable light, Super bright Cree T6 LED bike light £6.19 free P&P from Ebay , ok you still got to buy the battery & a suitable charger ( <S> big_f_d_d <S> on Ebay is the guy to get your batteries from aka Torchy Boy <--google it <S> I cant post any more links) <A> In the heat of the summer I like to take night rides on some lite paths to get out of the sun. <S> For night rides I ride my mountain bike as it is slower and more agile. <S> And as linc answered (+1) light it up. <S> Not sure if animals will move but a cyclist knows what that means. <A> If you can get to a children's toy store, you'll like find a few bells. <S> Tie a couple on your handle bars. <S> Try tie a few around the spokes of your front and rear wheels. <S> I believe it would be make difference..... <A> Im still confused as to where all these animals are coming from. <S> I've ridden on the canal towpath - at night <S> - I've never had anything run out in front of me. <S> I've also seen cyclists coming down the towpath while my dog is out, no collision either. <S> I dont wish to sound funny, but have you tried looking further than your own feet? <S> Are you sure your not just seeing shadows?
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I know when I ride at night, where there is no lighting you need to slow down a lot, even if you have decent lights. And hit the bell or yell rider before a blind corner. And if I hit an animal (or other obstacle) I would have a better chance of staying on two wheels.
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Is there a cheap touring bike that is as light as a road bike I want a touring bike that is as light as a road bike - basically I want a road bike with a touring bike geometry - ie around 10 or 11Kg, excluding pannier racks, and other add-ons. My price range for a complete bike is £500 to £1000 max - is that possible? Either as a frame which I can build up, or an off-the-shelf built bike? I've had my current touring bike for 10 years, everything has been replaced at least 3x and it is ideal for everything I do, but I am sure it doesn't need to be so heavy (14Kg) for what I do - long commutes / touring holidays. <Q> There was a trend of these bikes about 8 years ago. <S> They weren't called touring bikes, but Century or Relaxed Geometry. <S> This is a typical example: Trek Pilot - http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2006/archive/trek/pilot21 <S> However, they seemed to all disappear from the big manufacturers a couple years ago. <S> Plenty of small brands still in this market. <S> I'd look into Salsa for examples. <S> If you've got the cash to spend, this is the bike I would recommend. <S> Volagi Luscio. <S> http://www.volagi.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Cyclist-Magazine-2014-Liscio-Review.pdf <S> I've test ridden one and they are exactly what you are looking for. <S> I think any bikein this niche today is likely to have disk brakes, rather than the long reach brakeson the Pilot. <S> So I'd start looking at various road bikes with disk brakes and see ifyou can find the geometry you are looking for. <S> If you can find an old Trek Pilot or Specialized Sequoia, those would be relatively goodframes to start from. <S> With the right components, you could easily get around 10 kgs bikeweight. <S> You wouldn't want to carry 90lbs of touring gear on these bikes, but a moderate load would be just fine. <A> If it is designed to take a load it is going to be heavier than a road race bike. <S> Definitely agree with go for steel. <S> A bit of money but <S> the Salsa Colossal TI is just over 20 lbs. <S> I ride a titanium cyclocross as my cyclocross, commuter, and long road rides (trade out tires). <S> It rides a lot like my touring bike but just lighter. <S> When you first posted the question you did not have a price constraints. <S> You might find a new 10 - 11 kg steel bike for £1000 but probably will probably sacrifice components. <S> You are going to need to up the weight or budget. <S> The steel version of the Colossal is under 11 kg and closer to that budget. <S> Look for a good used bike - I got my used titanium cyclcocross in great shape for close to that price range. <S> As for racks once or twice a year is not the same as never. <S> If it need to take a rack you need to look for a bike that does. <S> Calling a bike something other than a touring bike is not going to make it cheaper or lighter. <S> I would not eliminate touring bikes from you selection. <S> Just go for the lightest bike that does what you want it to do in your budget. <S> In that budget you are probably not going to shed 3 KG. <A> I have a Devinci Caribou <S> and I just weighed it at 23 pounds, or 10.45kg with the rear rack, lights, and 2 bottle cages attached. <S> I'm not sure how accurate my measurement is as I just used my bathroom scale, but I weighed it by weighing myself, and then fully lifting the bike off the floor and calculating the difference. <S> The bike I linked to is likely a little lighter as it's a newer model with better components. <S> They used to have 2 models with the one I own being lower spec than the one shown. <S> Being aluminum, it's likely a little lighter than many touring bikes which are made of steel, but it still has touring geometry. <S> Here's a link to a PDF brochure from 2006 which gives a weight of 11.1 kg. <S> I would assume it's gotten a little lighter since then, so <S> the weight I measured seems somewhat accurate
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If your current bike is ideal for everything you do then consider keep on riding that bike until you have a bigger budget. You might look for all day, randonneuring, endurance, or even cyclocross bikes.
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Chain link jams after reassembling the rivet I bought a chain riveting tool. Here is how it looks like: It works fine, I was able to push the rivet out of a test chain. But faced an unexpected difficulty: after I restore the rivet to it's proper position the chain link becomes very hard to move. I think, the cause of this is that my tool is not as precise as those, used in the factory, when manufacturing the chain. And when I restore the rivet, I shift it a little bit from it's ideal position. It creates extra friction, not allowing the plates to move freely as they should. Is it normal? Am I doing something wrong? Maybe, there are better tools? <Q> This often seems to happen. <S> Sometimes it helps to use the tool to push the rivet back out the other way a fraction of a mm. <A> Read the instructions. <S> After you push the pin in, you place the link over the left-most set of teeth (so that the teeth are between the plates) and give the crank about 1/2 turn. <S> This loosens up the link. <S> (Note that you should be pushing the pin in the direction opposite of how you inserted it.) <A> Normally the solution is to wiggle the link a bunch and it loosens up. <S> After installing the rivet, try flexing the chain in the direction of the rivet back and forth. <S> If that doesn't work, use the other setting of your chain tool in order to loosen the link up (see the chain tool manual for details). <A> Like somone else has said (I can't comment yet so <S> I have to post as a new response) <S> a common practice to loosen stiff links is to wiggle the chain back and forth around the stiff link, as shown with the red arrows. <S> Also, putting some Triflow on the pin before you drive it back in will happy in the future. <S> Really you should be using new chain pins or powerlinks.
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If you are using a Shimano chain, then using the pins with a snap-off driver can help.
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Should I replace both wheels/rims if I convert the front to a dynamo hub? The title mostly says it all. Is there a reason to or a reason not to replace the back wheel or rim if I replace the front wheel to get a dynamo hub? The only reason would be aesthetics, to keep the wheels the same, but that doesn't sound like a good enough reason for me. My bike is a hybrid Specialized that is maybe 3 years old, but with only 100 or so miles on it. I have been commuting to work and looking into getting dynamo powered lights. <Q> The first scenario I think of is where you are changing only the front hub (and spokes) and keeping the front rim. <S> Why would you change the rear one? <S> Easier task is to replace the front wheel (i.e. rim+hub+spokes), sometimes they are even sold this way, so it's only matter of mounting the tire and installing the cables. <S> Rear wheel can be changed at this time if there are reasons on its own, for example the hub or rim are already close to the end of the useful life or are worn out completely. <S> Other reasons may be: <S> You bought a wheelset that included both, or <S> your current rear hub is a dynamo (and you don´t want two dynamos in one bike). <S> The rim you are putting in front is a different width or size, or is intended for a different use (e.g. from super light rims to utility ones) and you want to match the rear for usage. <A> The rear wheel is not even aware that the front has been replaced. <S> No reason to replace the rear. <A> As others have said, there is no reason at all to replace the rear wheel (other than to match the size/appearance of the front wheel if that matters to you). <S> You can get "commuter grade" (as I read Peter White) dynamo hubs from Sanyo, Shutter Precision, and Shimano <S> that are decent quality and reasonably priced. <S> I have a front wheel built on a Sanyo H27 hub ($47 from Peter White), so far so good, but I've only got about 1000 km on it. <S> I really like the "always ready" aspect of dynamo lights, and since the output is <S> AC you can do cool things with the taillight – <S> B&M makes a light, the Toplight Line Plus BrakeTec, that uses the frequency of the AC from the generator to infer when you are braking and modulate the brightness of the taillight.
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You should replace the rear wheel only if there is another well justified reason to do so, but generally both wheels are mostly independent, so you can perfectly change only the front.
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Why some companies stop supplying frames to pro teams? Nowadays TIME hardly sponsors professional cycling teams at least with their frames, and I feel others like LOOK, De Rosa or Cervélo are also leaning away from it. Why it happens? Do they think their reputations are already established enough and thus they don't need to promote and advertise products anymore? Or are they running out of money and can't afford to offer teams a better deal than others? Or the quality of their frame are actually inferior and they don't want to let people be aware of it? Having nothing against companies like Specialized or Canyon, but I kinda feel sad to see multiple teams share the same bike. <Q> You have it backwards. <S> You seem to think pro bike teams are looking to purchase frames from suppliers, and all the supplier needs to do is offer a decent discount. <S> It's the other way around - most pro-tour bike teams require payment from the supplier if they are to display decals, and needless to say the gear will have to be supplied without cost. <S> You will often see a rider on a certain team has insisted on bringing his favorite saddle, which will then have all decals and logs removed if the supplier doesn't want to pay, or the team already has a primary supplier for that part. <S> As well, you may even see a team using old frames from a competing brand for a cobble stage where the current frame sponsor did not supply a suitable frame - in this case, the frame will either be rebranded or have branding removed. <S> In short, I think the lack of diversity you see is more a fault of the sport and the economics of it, not the fault of niche frame manufactures. <A> I think the bike manufacturers do it for a while until they get enough brand recognition. <S> Then they stop for a while to save money, until their brand recognition drops off. <A> Could it be liability or even just association with a frame that breaks during a race and causes injury? <S> Especially if this is a novel frame design that has not been proven? <S> Companies can be especially touchy about liability and reputation.
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Big high-revenue bike companies can afford to bet on multiple teams, while betting on one team may be a too risky proposition for a niche player (especially a team they can afford to sponsor). You will also see them removing logos from tubular tires made specifically for the cobbles, where most the big-shop tire sponsors do not have a suitable tire.
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I keep breaking the tips off my presta tube stems I can't pinpoint what I'm doing wrong while inflating my tubes. I use presta valves and have a "Joe Blow" Topeak pump. I put the tube stem at 12 o'clock, I unscrew the tip of the tube stem (but not too hard), press to let out some air, place the pump head on, lock it on, inflate to 120 psi (as recommended on the tire), then reverse all procedures, trying to keep everything straight (not wiggling the pump head too much). I inflate before every ride but didn't think that was a problem as long as I'm letting some air out before pumping and am not inflating beyond the max. psi. Still, after a couple weeks (riding about 3 times per week), the part of the tube stem that screws up and down is gone, and a few weeks later, after inflating, all the air rushes out when I take the pump off, then it won't hold air again. The last time I replaced a tube for this reason, I decided to keep the little nut in place at the base of the stem near the tire (though my mechanic says it's unnecessary) and to keep the dust cap on the stem. I'm thinking these two items might not be necessary to most folks, but they'll perhaps protect against whatever I'm doing wrong. Any other advice? <Q> I also use a Joe Blow on my prestas. <S> After I had a couple valve stems bend and/or break, I started making sure I only unscrew the stem a little bit. <S> My theory was that by unscrewing the stem all the way up, it was easier to bend or break when pulling the pump head off. <S> Haven't had it happen again since. <A> Use those two items - retaining screw and cap. <S> On the valve there are actually two sets of threads One to open and close Two to remove the core <S> You probable loosened the core <S> and then it blew out. <S> Some sets of tubes just don't have the core very tight. <S> Get a tool to remove the core - it is also used to tighten it. <S> Tighten the core. <S> I even use a dab of locktite but don't get it in the rubber mechanism. <S> Some tubes do not have serviceable cores (won't come out). <S> You would probably be better off with those type of tubes. <S> When I get a flat I save the core, retaining nut, and cap <S> so I have spares. <A> As for the cap, I don't think it's necessary - it will only protect the valve from weather conditions and dirt. <S> With a shop pump like Joe Blow a bit more reliable option is to place the valve at 6 o'clock position for pumping. <S> When it's at 12 o'clock the hose comming from the bottom might exert some force on the valve stem bending it slightly every time you pump the tire. <S> Personally I've only broken the valve stem a few times and it was only because of wobbling around the pump (a compact hand pump) when removing it. <S> I use retaining nuts, but I don't put caps on the valves, and haven't had any problems for the past 2 years. <A> A long term solution to this problem is to replace your presta valve tubes with schraders. <S> I've broken too many presta valves (and never broken a schrader) to ever have faith in the prestas again.
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If you unscrew to far / hard the core comes out. The retaining nut will help keep the valve in one position, which might solve a part of the problem.
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Bicycling 36 km per day in city traffic is feasible? I am planning (still in planning phase since last 1 month :( ) to use bicycle as my commute to and from office. My office is around 18 km away from my home. Almost half the road will be full of traffic. Everyone in my family has already told me that 36 km per day will be too much and I wont be able to continue cycling for long time. I am aware that initially it will be tough to go 36 km per day but I think after month or so my body will get used to it. So I am wondering how much km do other people go per day? What are your experiences about cycling? and 36 km per day is too much distance? Update : Finally I bought one cycle against everyone's suggestion (family members and friends) and started cycling to the office. I must say it is a tough job to start cycling after 10 years but I am enjoying it. It takes me almost the same time to reach office. On my motorcycle I used reach office in 40 minutes and on cycle it takes me around 50 minutes. Dust, pollution and other people yanking horns from behind is the biggest headache for me now. I hope that I will get used to it :) Thanks everyone for your encouragement, suggestions and answers. <Q> I have a co-worker who rides into work on a ~30 mile one way trip. <S> It's no problem for him because he's a good cyclist, has a good bike, and is used to that kind of distance. <S> He's got his saddle worked out <S> , his form is good, his lights are good, and he knows his route. <S> The biggest problem he has is dealing with a locker room, and needing to move clothes back and forth. <S> He usually drives in on Friday to haul his used up work clothes back his house. <S> The things I would focus on: <S> The logistics of clothes, weather, being clean, and your schedule. <S> Knowing how to fix a flat. <S> Having a back up plan when you wake up <S> and it's raining/snowing/hailing outside. <S> Getting used to the mileage. <S> If you've never really ridden before you'll be dealing with soreness, kinks, and gear issues. <S> Good bike maintenance. <S> If you keep everything lubed up, fix little issues before they get big, and can do your own work (or most of it) <S> you'll have a lot less problems. <S> I was riding my bike your distance to work when I was 14 years old, but I was also a competitive cyclist so the distance was nothing. <S> A mid-range competitive cyclist can easily pack away 400 mile weeks in the winter so your co-workers are nuts that it's not possible <S> given you have the body and bike to do it. <A> Traffic is definitely an issue, adding to the important concerns Eric had described. <S> Since automobiles have vastly different dynamics, and drivers often do not expect anything but other cars on the road, your presence will often be an unpleasant surprise for the less attentive of them. <S> Blinking LED front light (but not too bright or with adjustable brightness so that you will not be blinding and distracting people at darker hours), large and bright red back light, <S> LED-lined vest <S> if you can find it, other red lights directed to the ground, the more the better. <A> And for a city like Copenhagen, it has been a huge success where more than 20% of the morning traffic is by bike on the more than 450 km bike lanes and tracks (you can find a lot of information from the concil ) <S> This picture is from downtown Copenhagen an Autumn morning. <S> Apart from the odd accident with a right-turning lorry, biking in Copenhagen is a relatively safe experience. <S> For many years I went 2*20 km each day to and from work. <S> As stated elsewhere the main problem was getting a locker room and handling you clothes... <A> It's all relative. <S> I ride 8 km each way to work, and I ride all year in the wet and rainy Pacific Northwest of Washington State. <S> My route puts me in traffic most of the way, but Washington State is regarded as the most bike friendly state in the U.S. <S> I'm 47, and I rode my first two Centuries (100 mile rides) earlier this year. <A> My commute is exactly the same:18km one way. <S> I have an electric motor 350w that helps a lot, on normal days <S> no shower needed in the morning. <S> I tried all possible side roads until I found a nicer route, even if that is 5km more, I prefer the safer and quieter way. <A> I used to commute 14 kilometers one way, which makes up 28 both ways to work every day. <S> Needed to get used at first <S> but it did not take much time. <S> A bicycle moves 22 km/h in average in a tight traffic with lights, + <S> -3 km/h <S> if you are lucky or not, which makes some 40 minutes for the whole trip - not a big deal, really. <S> I did not ride in rain and when it is much colder than possible for comfort. <S> Use lights at night, take care of traffic and you will be fine. <S> I don't think there's any extra preparation needed.
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I would suggest wearing a good helmet and not these tiny plastic caps (possibly with face cover — sadly it is not scandalous to hear about a cyclist breaking their teeth and/or nose upon impact), gloves which you will trust with protecting your hands on contact with asphalt on 35 km/h, knee and elbow protection. It is also a must to be making yourself visible to the drivers. There is a guy at work who rides about 22 km each way, and he too rides all year. In terms of the traffic, really only you can gauge it and decide. Traffic varies a lot between countries - my guess is that it quite a different thing in India than in Denmark. During the last 20 years many Danish cities have been completely re-designed to better accommodate the many bikes - often by reducing the number or width of the car lanes to make room for dedicated bike lanes. On your question of feasible, if one is fit enough then the distance won't be a challenge.
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Replacing 14" x 1.95" With 14" x 2.125"? I have a super quick question here, my daughter (she's 5 years old) rides her bicycle extensively, to the point of the actual tire has worn clear through. I didn't think it would be this difficult, but I can't seem to find a direct replacement for her tires anywhere (her tires are 14 x 1.95). I see plenty of 14 x 2.125 tires, would that work and be a direct replacement that'll fit? I'm not sure what else to do at this point, but if we can't find new tires then we'd be forced to unnecessarily buy a whole new bicycle for her. Any thoughts or ideas? I have searched common stores, as well as checked online and there just seems to be no 14 x 1.95 tires available. Thank you in advance! <Q> 14" tires are actually quite common on department store bikes (Wal Mart, etc), but they are not found on "bike shop" brands. <S> I think this is where some of the confusion on this issue has come in. <S> For one thing, there is no true standardization on tire widths. <S> I.e., every company uses its own gauge for what it means to be 1.95", etc (I once had a 2.55" tire from brand X <S> that was narrower than a 2.2" tire from brand Y). <S> To be on the safe side, make sure you have a little clearance wherever the tires pass the frame or fork; but I would bet money that the 2.125" tires will fit, and on top of that you probably won't be able to tell any difference between the old and new tires. <S> EDIT: <S> Apparently I don't have enough points or something to comment on the answer that links to the Schwalbe website. <S> I was going to say, "Those tires with fractional widths on the Schwalbe website will be entirely different from the tire with a decimal width mentioned by the O.P. <S> If the O.P. gets a 14" tire with a decimal width he will be fine. <S> In the USA I doubt there is anything else to be had." <A> It all depends on if the bike frame has room. <S> That is less than a 10% difference. <S> If you can get the tip of your little finger between the tire and the frame with the 1.95 <S> then most likely it will take a 2.125. <A> A few words of caution. <S> In fact, Schwalbe lists two different ISO sized 14" tires (288 and 298). <S> Make you you get the proper ISO sized 14" tires. <S> http://www.schwalbetires.com/bike_tires/tubes <A> First, I want to "second the motion" by Daniel R Hicks to read Sheldon Brown's excellent page on tire sizes: http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html <S> 14-inch tires are not particularly common. <S> In fact, Sheldon Brown's charts include 16" and 12-1/2" tires, but they don't mention 14" tires. <S> However, ebay lists some, including 1.75, 2.00 and 2.125, but, as you've found, no 14x1.95. <S> However, a "completed auctions" search finds that a couple of people have sold tubes for 14" x 1.75/1.95/2.125 tires, which suggests to me that those three tire sizes must be pretty close to one another: <S> Also, if you look at the "Width Considerations" chart on Sheldon Brown's page, you can see recommendations for how much variation is acceptable in tire widths. <S> In general, it indicates that a 5-7 mm deviation from optimal is acceptable, and he says that the chart is conservative. <S> 1.95 <S> x 25.4 mm/inch = <S> 49.53 mm, so you need a tire width between about 43 and 56 mm, which is 1.69 to 2.20 inches. <S> 1.75, 2.00, and 2.125 are all in that range, so <S> I think any of them will probably work. <S> There's an eBay seller selling a "New 14" Kenda black tire" for $5 plus shipping. <S> You could get a pair for about $20, including shipping. <S> They are 14x1.75. <S> As of today, someone on eBay is selling: "Kids Bicycle White Wall Tires and Tubes 14x1.75 <S> Fits <S> 1.95 2.125 BMX 14" Stroller" <S> so maybe they would work. <S> Here's a search which finds it (and some tubes): https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=14+%281.95%2C1.75%29&_sacat=185023
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As others have noted, 14" tires aren't terribly common, but they do exist. You will almost certainly be fine with the slightly wider tire. Finally, if Wal Mart does not sell replacement tires for its own bikes (regardless of the marked width), any bike shop can order the correct tires for you and offer you a guarantee that they will fit.
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Rockshox Quadra 21R -- Removal tips for old brittle elastomer I am tuning up the mountain bike I purchased in 1994, which has the old yellow Rockshox Quadra 21R front suspension fork. I have found a nice video on YouTube which shows how to service the suspension, and replace the elastomers, and also found an elastomer replacement kit for the fork at suspensionforkparts.net. My concern is, when I unscrew the top plastic nut to remove the old elastomers, that I have found the old elastomers to be very brittle, several of them breaking into pieces upon removal, with brittle chunks still stuck within my fork. I can get the top-most units removed, but I know there is still at least one or two layers of elastomer in the bottom of the fork. Does anyone have experience removing old brittle pieces of elastomer without damaging the tubes of the fork? My intuition says I should get in there with a long flathead screwdriver and a hammer, but I do not want to damage parts within the bottom of the fork that I cannot see. I also will need to access the very bottom of the fork with a long hex wrench when the elastomers are removed to fully disassemble and service the the bottom shafts. So, I am a bit worried that my screwdriver approach will jam the old elastomer pieces in the bottom of the fork, preventing access to the hex screw. Thank you in advance for any tips you can offer on safely removing the old brittle elastomers. <Q> I've never dismantled a fork intending to reassemble it, but... <S> Could you use a J-end spoke or a knitting hook to pull the elastomer rather than pushing it? <S> You should be able to get plastic knitting hooks so the inner surfaces aren't scratched. <A> The replacement elastomers I ordered from suspensionforkparts.net arrived and I replaced them this past weekend. <S> Easy job, and the front suspension works like new! <A> So this was helpful to me, but I had to use some different techniques. <S> The elastomers weren't that bad, but the old lubricant was thick and sticky so everything was stuck. <S> I needed a really long lag bolt, LOTS of WD-40 to dissolve the old oil, and one of those grabby things. <S> The grabby thing does not hold on to stuff very tightly at all , so I'd squirt some WD-40 in there, bang on it with the long bolt, and carefully grab the little plastic nub with the grabby thing and try to work it until it started to come out. <S> The long bolt of the right size (about twice the diameter of the nubs on the plastic pieces) worked really well to slip into the hole of the rubber elastomers, give it a couple of twists to screw it in tight, and the pull them out. <S> I'm posting pics of the tools I used, the elastomers pulled out, and the bike I'm working on. <A> Thank you for your tip, Emyr. <S> I ended up using my screwdriver and hammer method to work around all of the brittle elastomer sections. <S> However, at the bottom of the last section of elastomer was a round piece of plastic with a hole in it. <S> My new elastomers are coming in this weekend, and I look forward to repairing my front suspension. <S> Thank you for the help. <S> Here's a photo of the old elastomers from the Rockshox Quadra 21R fork, now 20 years old! <S> They are laid on the table with the botom of the fork toward the top. <S> The small plastic ring you see is what I removed with the "J" shaped spoke.
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I did just what you suggested to remove it -- I bent the end of an old spoke into a "J" shape, and pulled it out of the fork.
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Is it normal for my derailleur cables to cross over on the down tube? I've just picked myself up a Specialized Allez Sport 2014 road bike from Evans Cycles (UK). I test rode the bike and I'm happy with the bike, but when I got home, and flipped the bike over to make a note of the serial number (for insurance) and I noticed that the derailleur cables cross over on the underside of the down tube. The groupset on the bike is Shimano Sora, installed by the workshop at the Evans store, before I test rode it. Full specs can be found here: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-sport-c2-2014-road-bike-ec052507 The is the first road bike I've owned with a Shimano groupset < 105 and I wanted to know if this is the normal way to route derailleur cables with Sora shifters? I have owned a 105 groupset equipped bike in the past with externally routed cables and the cables weren't crossed over on that. My current race bike has internally routed cables, so I can't even check against that. The potential issue I'm concerned about with the cables crossed over is that through rubbing against each other, they will wear more than they would normally. I'm also worried that the cables will be more likely to rub against the downtube, but I could just be being paranoid... UPDATE: It looks like I'm not the only person to ask this question: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/components-wrenching/crossing-derailleur-cables-downtube-243700.html It would seem (from the above discussion, at least) that this is not uncommon for Specialised bikes to cross over. Still doesn't sit right with me though... <Q> This is one of those questions that can start arguments between bike mechanics--to cross or not to cross the derailer cables. <S> Crossing appears to be becoming more common on new bikes, if the cables aren't internal, but it's also going to depend upon the bike. <S> Smoother shifting is reported by some from crossed cables. <S> I would talk to the mechanic at your LBS about it. <A> I have seen this frequently and routed my cables this way. <S> By routing the shifter cable from the right side of the handlebar around the stem to the cable boss on the left side of the frame (and visa versa) <S> I create a more gentle bend in the in the cable housing. <S> Another benefit is less stress on the cable ends where they insert at the shifter body and frame boss. <A> This setup is used less for reduced friction (although many make this argument) and more to keep the cable housing off the head tube so that you don't damage the paint. <S> For example, running the right shifter cable to the right down tube cable stop, this forces the cable housing to make a sharper bend forcing the cable housing to rub the head tube. <S> If we run the right shifter to the left down tube cable stop, the bend is more gentle and the cable housing does not contact the head tube unless the handlebars are turned to extreme angles.
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A gentler bend creates less internal friction on the cable. There could be manufacturer recommendations or anecdotal experience driving the decision.
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Full helmet (BMX) for Commuting, what is the current 2014 opinion? So, back 15 years ago, I think wearing helmet is kinda hype. I started wearing cycling helmet around 10 years ago seeing how dangerous cycling on the road is. Just recently I got in an accident which I'm not sure what I can do better to avoid one (the accident) but to have more protection on myself.The accident happened just when a young motorist decided to pulled out without any signal, checking blind spot and possibly mirror (I use Cateye EL-130, a warning sign 300 m away from me can still reflect my flaslight-strobing well back; a full Hi Vis jacket). So when I was swerving, I lost balance and get thrown off the bike, chin and face planted on asphalt. 4 stitches on the chin, internal bleeding around the front teeth (have to take fluid for 3 weeks) and scar on face. Enough with the accident background, my question is 1) Would it worth buying a full helmet (BMX not motorcycle style) just to provide some protection, before my front teeth ever decide to part from me and my abuse. 2) What is your thought being a cyclist, seeing another wearing full helmet on the road? Side question:a) Regarding the accident, was there anything else I can do, apart from riding on the very right edge of the lane (UK driving on left) and/or driving unacceptably slowly (less than 10 mph or 16 kmph) to keep control of the bicycle (and encourage motorist behind to overtake).b) I am still hesitant to claim personal injury against the driver. Is there any advice? Looking for a solicitor I believe? EDIT: Sorry I forgot to tell that I'm living in Scotland so temperature is not really a problem.. but I have never seen people riding full helmet on the street, lol. I think in here 50% people choosing not to have helmet, even worse...EDIT 2: I actually mean this kind of helmet just to prevent some simple face-plant injury <Q> Protection level is a personal preference matter. <S> You could just as well wear downhill style full body armor to commute and if you are willing to sacrifice the mobility and comfort for that extra level of protection, I'd say more power to you. <S> The reality is it's all shades of grey. <S> If a one ton pickup hits you going 55 mph, there really isn't much you could be wearing that is going to do you any good. <S> I've been hit twice now commuting, but have stopped wearing any sort of helmet in the winter due to temperature control issues. <S> I value ease of temperature adjustment <S> more than any feeling of safety I get from a helmet. <S> So much of cycling is personal preference that I have seen several folks in town wearing full face helmets on what is seemingly a commute, and it doesn't bother me any more or less than the brand of bicycle they are riding. <S> Edit: <S> I do not recommend wearing any less than the level of protection required by law in your area. <S> My jurisdiction has no such requirements. <A> I not a Dr nor a medical professional - do not take this as medical advice. <S> The primary purpose of a partial helmet is to protect the brain. <S> With blunt force trauma to the skull the brain will swell <S> and you can lose brain function or even die. <S> As for losing your teeth that is bad <S> and you don't want it to happen <S> but it is not likely something you are going to die from. <S> If you did die from a fractured jaw it would most likely be from so much blood in the esophagus that you could not breath. <S> On a motor cycle I wore full face. <S> I took one bad fall and full face saved my face <S> and I never road again. <A> I will tackle just the question what can be done to prevent such accidents in the future. <S> I think that in some cases loud horn can help the prevent accidents where motorist is not aware of the cyclist. <S> I was recently in an accident where I was on the main road and motrosit was approaching on side road. <S> He was driving in faster spectrum but many other motorist approach main road in that manner and stop. <S> This one did not, since he did not see me, and hit me in the rear wheel. <S> I was much more lucky than you since I got only few bruises. <S> But I decided and ordered loud horn for my bike which I intend to use on any suspucious looking motorist.
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With that said if you want to protect your face then by all means wear a full face helmet. So my answer is you should wear whatever makes you feel more comfortable mentally.
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