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Road tyres on mountain bike I bought a Repco Warrior 29 mountain bike 3 months ago. The back tyre is now almost bald and needs to be replaced. Because of where I live there are no bike shops, so I can't buy tyres here and will have to order them from overseas. My problem is that 3 months seems a short time to have to replace tyres (although it does see a lot of miles since I use it a lot). I don't ride offroad, and I'm wondering if that's part of the issue with the rapid wear. Before I order any tyres, can anyone tell me through experience if it's a good idea (or even possible) to put road tyres on my mountain bike. Are there any pro's and cons to it? Should I replace both tyres or just the back one? Update:- I now have my new tyres, ordered brake pads as well, and immediately noticed the smoother, easier, quieter ride on the way home (about an hour) Cheers all for the advice. <Q> You will find it even more comfortable, just be a bit more cautious whenever it rains. <S> As @MikeBaranczak points, be careful with the size, 27, 29 are nowadays quite common. <S> BUT ALSO have a look: <S> how fat they are and if they fit with your actual wheel. <S> valve type, again check it fits with your actual wheel. <S> Best and easiest way is to check what you have now and order the same size, valve and thickness but in flat. <S> About having to change them each 3 months, I would say is not normal (of course depends on km) but the first new-bike tires are usually a bit soft/not-good-quiality <S> and they get flat very fast... <S> maybe if you don't change them in 3 more months you have them already flat <S> and you don't need to change them :) <A> I assume the "29" refers to the wheel size (29 inch, a.k.a. 700c, 622 ISO, or 28 inch), but check what it says on your tires, just to be sure. <S> See here for more information about tire sizes than you ever wanted. <S> This is probably the most common size out there, so you'll have no trouble finding tires. <S> If you only ride on pavement, then yeah, road tires are a good idea. <S> You'll need new tubes as well, since the tires will be skinnier. <S> 3 months is a really short lifespan for a tire. <S> You probably just got the batch from that day when all the guys at the tire factory were hung over. <S> So I wouldn't trust the front tire, either - replace that, too. <A> Slick tires are available for mountain bikes - see any catalog such as Performance, Nashbar, or whatever is popular where you live. <S> I'd go with an MTB slick for sure. <S> My brother has been doing this successfully for years, as he loves his MTB frame. <S> As for me, I have a road bike (several, I confess) for road riding, so can't tell you anything from personal experience except that my kids' knobby MTB tires wear out fast when ridden on the road. <S> They seem to use a soft rubber for off road traction. <S> An adult's weight probably makes the situation worse, hence your problem in the rear. <A> I wouldn't agree that you have less grip in the rain than with knobblies, unless it is totally slick, in which case a couple of grooves is better, but not knobbly tyres. <S> I rode slicks (Michelin Wild Run'r 1.4s) on my converted MTB for a year and never washed out. <S> Not even once. <S> And I went almost horizontal around the corners at high speed. <S> (That bike just fit me really well). <S> The tyres were thin and supple so they would mould themselves around the rim in response to their grip on the road as the bike pushed out on top of them, and this is what made it so hard to fall. <S> I was slightly more careful in the rain. <S> I would avoid the tyres that have heavy puncture protection - most of them don't work and so prevention is better. <S> Slicks also make it a lot easier to spot penetrations to the tyre, so you can dig stuff out before it reaches the tube.
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Road tires in general will be very narrow and the beads securing the road tire to the MTB rim may not seat well. It's totally fine to use smooth tires on a mountain bike, if you use it as you describe. Though your q is about 29er wheels, there are a lot of tyres available for 26" wheels that fit this purpose.
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Should I go clipless? My bike is a Giant Reign, and I ride in the UK. I like going to local gravity parks and trail centres and my local tracks are mainly downhill orientated but I also like to get out on longer rides. I'm currently running some cheap pedals off an old XC bike and am using skate shoes. When the terrain gets even remotely rough, my feet are all over the place and it's doing my head in. Obviously I need to invest in some better pedals and shoes, however I'm not sure whether to take the hit and go clipless straight away or to get some decent flats n proper shoes then revisit the clipless question further down the line. Any recommendations? <Q> Clipless makes it hard to bail out when you're in trouble, which is why most DH riders use flats. <S> A quality pair of flats + decent shoes are going to be just as expensive as clipless pedals and shoes. <S> Unless you're doing serious downhill (and crashing a good bit), I would go straight to clipless. <A> Clipless pedals/SPD (and shoes) are great (shoes are usually very comfortable to wear; not so much when walking ;) and riding a bike, especially on flat and uphill terrain seems efficient and easy. <S> I have clipless, flat and combined pedals for my MTB... <S> and I've used clipless until one day <S> I had crash :) <S> After that, I have constant fear that I won't be able to unlock my shoes in time to fall nicely :) <S> Since I didn't want to go back to flat pedals I decided to switch to combined ones. <S> Now, when I'm approaching steep downhill section I just put my shoes on the flat side of the pedals and I worry much less about falling. <S> My suggestion would be to try combined pedals - they might be good alternative. <A> Being clipped in makes it slower to get your feet off the pedals, in situations where you might want to dab on the ground. <S> Its still possible, but you have to anticipate the need more. <S> On the other hand, being attached to the bike lets you move it around when in the air, so preparing for a landing. <S> The other option is pedals with little grip teeth and shoes that have a suitable tread pattern. <S> Personally I've never ridden with these. <S> Sadly noone can tell you what will work best for you. <S> Or swapping pedals is relatively easy and only requires one tool. <S> Most bikes have a 9/16" thread and a pedal swap takes ~5 minutes. <S> Or buy some cheap ones on ebay for a test. <S> You can always sell them onwards if you don't like them.
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Toe clips on the pedals are stupid and you should avoid them - they have a bad habit of catching things if your foot is not in them properly. If you have a friend with pedals you'd like to try, ask to borrow their bike for a ride.
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How to measure and cut chain I am currently building a road bike. I measured the chain using the largest ring and largest cog method , I counted two extra links and cut the chain using a chain tool. Both ends of the chain now have narrow ends. I want to use a power link, I understand that if I use the power link to join the ends, the chain will be one link longer than necessary. How can I remedy the situation? Appreciate any help. <Q> You put the powerlink on the chain and move on with your life. <S> Provided the chain is not insanely too long, it's going to work fine unless you're on the boundary of what your shift system can handle in capacity (which almost nobody is) <S> and you're abusive at this boundary. <S> Note that the article clearly states how to size when accounting with a master link: <S> MASTER LINK NOTE: <S> If the bike chain uses a master link, it is necessary to account for the link. <S> Install one half of the master link on one side of the chain. <S> Size the chain by cutting the other end of the chain. <S> If your chain is too long (as in this case), it may droop a little bit in smaller cog+chainring combos, but with 1 or 2 links too long, it will likely be insignificant (and occur in combos <S> you don't use anyway). <A> The chain will be one link longer than necessary. <S> How can I remedy the situation? <S> You don't. <S> That situation is remedied by the device known as the "tension wheel": <S> the bottom one of the two small cogs in the derailleur. <S> Under spring action emanating from the joints between the derailleur parts (hanger-pivot and pivot-cage) <S> the tension wheel picks up slack in the chain. <S> The tension wheel is necessary because various gear combinations generate various amounts of chain slack (relative to the most tense combination of largest ring to largest cog). <S> Given that your chain fits into the tightest combination (largest ring to largest cog), try shifting to the extreme opposite: smallest ring to smallest cog. <S> You will see that the derailleur picks up this extreme amount of slack by the tension wheel swinging radically rearward. <S> If the chain is not too loose in this situation, and isn't rubbing against itself anywhere (or coming close to doing so), then everything is cool. <S> The derailleur can pick up slack in excess of the minimum; a few extra links won't exceed its range. <S> It's a good idea to have a few extra links in the chain <S> , in case you have a road-side repair emergency that requires you to splice out and throw away a damaged link. <A> Check the chain in place, on the small chainring and the smallest rear cog. <S> As long as your B screw is pretty much set then you should have around a 1cm (3/8 inch) gap between the chain and top jockey wheel of the rear mech when in this position. <S> If the chain is rubbing against the jockey wheel, then its too long and if theres a larger gap <S> it is too short.
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If your chain is too short, you can jam your RD in large-large.
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Cycling training - 220km in 4 weeks I have 4-5 weeks to prepare myself for a one day, 220km ride on a road bike, flat terrain (Germany, Ruhr Valley). This year my max is 70km (I could ride 100km, I'm doing bike rides since 2 weeks ago, have done only 3). I'm training since 5 weeks. Weekly: - gym strength training 3x a week - 2x a week interval trainings (spinning, swimming, etc) - 1x a week long bike ride The plan is to increase that long bike ride each week by some serious amount, hoping that the gym and interval trainings will help me achieve the goal. Is this achievable? <Q> I would say that you should definitely work more on long bike rides and less on strength training. <S> You can always wimp out on the hills and put it in an easy gear. <S> If the max you have done is 70km, then you really need to work on the distance part of it. <S> Most moderately fit people could probably do 70 km without worrying about how to properly hydrate and eat during the ride. <S> But when you get up around 200 km, you really have to think about how to eat and drink in the correct amounts so that you don't " bonk " when you are out on the road. <A> Success to complete the event will be determined by Fitness Strategy Execution <S> Given the time constraints you will not be able to add greatly to your fitness base (1). <S> This leaves you with Strategy (2) and execution (3) as factors you can optimize to give you the best chance at success. <S> Strategy looks at things such as pacing during the event, knowing how/when you will eat and during during the event. <S> Strategy can also include things such as getting sufficient rest prior to the event so you can be at your best. <S> You can have the best strategy in the world, but fail miserably at executing it. <S> For example, you can plan to eat every 45 minutes, but when actually riding endorphins can kick in making you think you are more on top of things than you actually are. <S> This could make you feel like you skip eating when you planned which can have consequences later in the event. <S> What you can do in the time left. <S> Go on <S> at least one very long ride (e.g., 4-6 hours) at least 1-2 weeks before the event. <S> This will give you a feel for what you will be up against when you do your 220 km. <S> Practice eating, drinking. <S> If you sufficiently stay on top of these you shouldn't feel thirsty or experience bonking. <S> That said if you experience either you will need to improve your execution of these. <S> The 1-2 week buffer will give you time to recover before your big day. <S> Good luck. <A> Some training is always better than no training. <S> It depends how fast you would like to ride the distance. <S> Given <S> you say there are only four weeks before you attempt <S> the distance - and traditional training for an event would also allow 1 week prior to the event for tapering - and one weekend to attempt a distance close to the target distance ~200km. <S> I imagine - <S> that leaves little time for the building of endurance. <S> Typically endurance takes longer to build and on a bike this is often done as base mileage over the winter period. <S> Otherwise known as long, steady miles. <S> It also depends how hard you want to ride it and how challenging the terrain is.
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Another important thing to train for is how to fuel yourself during the ride. As for whether your target is achievable - if you are fit, healthy & motivated - for sure it is.
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key broke and stuck in U-lock with bike locked Luck would have it my key broke off when I was trying to unlock my bike. The lock is U shaped ABUS. I've read people had this before, however biggest problem is that bike is now stuck at the school, locked to a metal grid. Half of the key is inside the lock and there is no way to pull it out. Obviously I can't take it to locksmith and my moves are pretty limited due to position it's locked in. I don't care about the lock. I wish to free my bike without losing the front wheel. Any suggestions? Edit: Issue solved, by smashing lock few times to dislodge it since key broke very close to open position. <Q> If the key's broken flush and you can't grab it with a pair of needlenose pliers, you should call a locksmith or the police. <S> In all likelihood, they will just cut the lock with an angle grinder or a hacksaw with a diamond blade. <S> Though from the picture, it looks like the lock mostly is open and maybe a good hit with a hammer might dislodge the lock. <A> These will always have a "key exacter" which is a pick with a sharp hooked end. <S> I'd imagine you don't want to waste the time or money getting a set (if it is legal there), but a friend may have a set they got awhile ago with a fancy. <S> Otherwise you'll have to cut it yourself as I had to when mine jammed for the last time. <S> This means that you'll want to notify the campus security and have some sort of "proof of purchase" and a carbide hack saw. <S> Normal hack saw blades won't even scratch a shackle if it is good steel, but a carbide blade can cut it in about 5min with a strong arm. <S> Otherwise, you'll have to contact local security, somehow convince them <S> it's your bike, and pay for someone to cut it. <A> There are several ways to break a bike lock. <S> Like others have said an angle grinder is your quickest method . <S> They make plenty of battery pack powered ones. <S> You could probably rent one. <S> They are one of the favorite tools of high end bike thieves. <S> Bolt cutters may work but it would take forever on that Abus hardened steel and unless your a body builder or have some supremely kick ass cutters, i wouldn't try it. <S> As long as the broke key piece is fully seated and has already moved the tumblers, and you can get a screwdriver in there far enough you only need it to twist the cylinder. <S> More than likely you wont have enough room to try this but its worth mentioning. <S> One other method used semi frequently is lock de-icing spray , which is used to freeze the metal making it brittle <S> and then a screwdriver is hammered into the key hole or where the U portion meets the shackle depending on the lock and application. <S> Although Abus and Kryptonite are supposedly immune to this on their higher end locks. <S> The last method that is used is a hydraulic lift , the ones used to lift cars to work on. <S> Although i have my doubts you will be able to utilize this method i am mentioning it for posterity's sake. <S> The higher weight load the better. <S> Position the jack in between the two bars to the U shape and start jacking, keep going until the lock pops. <S> Or call the police, that way no one calls them on you trying to break it.
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Jam key method - One that may or may not work depending on how deep it broke off, would be to hammer a small screwdriver into the key hole smashing the key fully in. If you live in an area where you don't need a license to use lock picks you can purchase a set. I have also seen this done to actual racks but i wouldn't recommend defacing/destroying public property.
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Nearly getting hit by reckless vehicles. What can be done? Today I nearly got hit by a driver not paying attention: I was stopped, waiting to turn right. She was turning right off theroad. She did not indicate. It was a quiet residential area, daylight. The driver saw me around 1-2 seconds before stopping her car about 1/2 metre away from me by emergency stopping. The driver had dark shades, and looked like she was not paying attention when turning. I had to jump off my bike and run out of the way. She exclaimed "Sorry, you were in my blindspot". This is in England. This is not the first time a driver has nearly hit me by reckless driving. Id like the make the roads safer in general for all cyclists. The questions: What would happen to the driver if I had recorded this incident and reported it? Do I need video evidence? What is the official law? To me, a vehicle can be used as a weapon, and not paying attention could clearly be fatal. How would these consequences for the driver make the roads safer for cyclists in general? What actions are the government taking to make the roads safer for cyclists? Thanks <Q> What would happen to the driver if I had recorded this incident and reported it? <S> Do I need video evidence? <S> What is the official law? <S> To me, a vehicle can be used as a weapon, and not paying attention could clearly be fatal. <S> The relevant law is most likely Driving without due care and attention <S> ( Road Traffic Act 1988 <S> ): <S> A person is to be regarded as driving without due care and attention if (and only if) the way he drives falls below what would be expected of a competent and careful driver. <S> The Highway Code (Rule 180) states that when turning right " Do not cut the corner ", so <S> it seems quite likely that doing so and nearly hitting someone would constitute careless driving. <S> If the driver came up with a different version of events to yours then a video recording or a reliable and credible witness would be useful. <S> There might be other evidence, e.g. skid marks on the road. <S> How would these consequences for the driver make the roads safer for cyclists in general? <S> In general, it probably wouldn't make any difference. <S> The particular driver might improve their driving, but it's difficult to see how this would have a wider impact. <S> What actions are the government taking to make the roads safer for cyclists? <S> Not much. <S> There's £316 million over the next 5 years to fund cycling and walking infrastructure. <S> That's a tiny amount compared to how much countries like Denmark and The Netherlands spend. <A> There is a major problem with making (in the US) left turns from 2-way to 2-way. <S> (I presume you're in the UK?) <S> Modern cars typically have a rather substantial (ie, wide) <S> "pillar" at the corners of the windshield, and this can easily hide a pedestrian or bicycle. <S> This problem accounts for many pedestrian accidents. <S> (The problem is not nearly as severe going the other direction since the bike/pedestrian is closer and not as easily hidden by the pillar.) <S> Traffic safety folks are just beginning to focus on this problem (that seems to have become more severe with safety "improvements" to the vehicles leading to the wider pillars in cars). <S> In terms of a government "push", the pedestrian safety angle is probably the best approach. <S> Dunno about British law, but in most of the US the motor vehicle operator would be "in the wrong" and should be found at fault in the case of an accident in this situation. <S> But of course it depends a lot on who has the better paid lawyer and how the motorist's lawyer manages to paint their client as the innocent party in this confrontation with a "crazed" cyclist. <A> Answer : If you're stopped still, in the right place giving way as required, you are not at fault and nothing requires to be done. <S> Sadly this doesn't stop you coming off badly - being run into at car-turning speed of about 10-15 km/h <S> is going to damage you and your bike, but the car will likely suffer nothing worse than scratches and some minor denting. <S> Extended Answer : <S> The only way to prevent an accident that someone else is causing, is to be defensive and anticipate every vehicle's actions. <S> See a car slowing and moving to the side of the road? <S> Anticipate they're going to turn. <S> For example - this : Personally I now run a camera on my handlebars at all times because stuff happens unexpectedly. <S> Even for a brief ride down to the shops. <S> High vis gear and lights and so on help the other road user to see you. <S> Answer of implicit question - there's the separate question of who-pays ? <S> Without admission of fault from the motorised vehicle driver, it may be left to insurance companies to resolve. <S> Depending on your location in the world, there may be no requirement to insure, or your bike may need separate road insurance. <S> In my country bicycles are covered under my household contents insurance, but that's definitely not global.
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The cyclist has no control over whether they do see you or not, so your best defense is to not be in the bad place at the wrong time. The driver could be given a fixed penalty (probably 3 points), or made to go on a driving course, or taken to court, or let off with a warning.
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Cranksets for tandem with internal gear hub I am thinking about assembling a trekking tandem bike. I would like to use an internal gear hub and put both chains on the right side of the bike. I have some questions about the cranksets: What cranksets can I use? Can I replace the sprockets on any crankset with bigger ones (I would need two same-sized sprockets on the middle crankset)? Or do I need some specific type of a crankset? How important is it to line up the chains in this case? What can I use to line the sprockets in the right position? Is it possible to to use different size of sprockets for the front chain to compensate for the difference in strength between two cyclists, or will it make riding too hard because of the shifting phases? <Q> You can use whatever cranksets you like and have available. <S> But tandems need either an eccentric bottom bracket on the front, OR a chain tensioner in order to set the tension on the link/timimg chain. <S> 1.1. <S> If you are only pootling around on the flat then perhaps the loss of the front chainring is acceptable. <S> But any hills or a good stiff headwind <S> and you'll be regretting the loss of lower gears. <S> You might be able to offset this with a large rear cassette, a 42 tooth megarange or similar. <S> Chain line is important - the timing chain is often a 1/8th inch chain because it doesn't need any side flex. <S> The rear chain is often a normal 3/32" bicycle chain so it can be used with a derailleur. <S> You could use either (or even a drive belt!) <S> To line up the chainrings, I'd use a long steel ruler, and try to use a matched pair of chainrings and bottom bracket axles. <S> 2.1. <S> Since you have no front derailers, you could possibly flip the chainrings to have the big one close to the frame, and teh timing chain on the outside. <S> Or you could even have both chainrings the same size. <S> Its also possible, (but uncommon) <S> to have just one big long chain doing all the drive. <S> No - the rider's pedalling should be in phase at all times. <S> If one rider is ready for a corner, there's a non-zero chance of pedal strike for the other rider. <S> This is doubly bad on a tandem. <S> They'll still have to do the same cadence as the other rider. <S> Suggestions: Get a matched pair of doubles or triple chainrings. <S> Set your timing chain on the big ring, and use the stoker's middle/smaller ring for the normal chain. <S> If its too low geared, swap the timing chain to the middle and put the rear wheel chain on the big chainring. <S> Once you've settled on a good combination, you could remove the chainrings you're not using. <S> If you're building this tandem from scratch, separate the IGH hub purchase from the build. <A> It's definitely possible to do #1, although you need to match the bolt pattern and bolt circle diameter (BCD). <S> That's a common change for many cyclists. <S> If you're running both chains on the right hand side standard cranksets are all you need (this is typically why people do that) <S> Chainline is important, and typically you would put both idler chainrings on the same side of the spider and no more is necessary. <S> Different size chainrings would work, and while it might be unusual at first I expect you would get used to it. <S> However, cornering will be tricky as you may not be able to get both inside pedals in a high position, meaning either pedal strike or slow cornering. <S> One way to avoid that would be a freewheel between the two riders, normally done via an intermediate drive (three chains!) <S> One caveat is to be careful about the torque limits for the hub. <S> Rohloff officially support their hubs in tandems, but limit the gear ratio you're allowed to use (without voiding the warranty). <S> Shitmano don't have that restriction, but their hubs tend to fail when used hard and the warranty is limited to a single replacement for each hub purchased... <S> you may end up paying more than the cost of a Rohloff. <S> Sachs also approve one of their hubs for tandems <S> but it's the 5 speed Cargo, so not great unless you're strictly using it in flat areas ( Hub-Stripping has more details ) <A> My guess is that chainline is unlikely to be an issue if it differs by up to 30mm, as it's a longer run than on, say, a dérailleur system which seems to cope fine with offsets of at least 30mm. <S> What you will need to watch is that the two chains are narrow enough that they don't catch each other on the adjacent rear chainrings. <S> I tried using a super-wide (1/8") <S> KMC single-speed chain <S> and it was so wide that it caught on the adjacent chain. <S> When I switched both (actually 3 chains, two for sync) for KMC X1 <S> they didn't touch. <S> Yes that is possible, but hardly anyone does it, despite most teams being unmatched in power. <S> Firstly it feels odd and would probably make the frame flex/wobble due to the way you're each moving your weight about. <S> Standing up would be very difficult/dangerous. <S> The cadence is a compromise on a tandem. <S> If one person has trouble spinning and has shorter legs it might be worth giving them slightly shorter cranks. <S> Be careful not to give either rider a crank length which would make them uncomfortable. <S> For further advice on using Rohloff hubs with a tandem I'd suggest the Thorn Forum .
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Any cranks should do, as long as you can attach two chain rings to the rear spider. If you want one rider to have an easier time of it, look for different length cranks. A different length bottom bracket for the captain or stoker could be used to fine tune that if necessary, but almost all tandems are built with the right hand edge of the BB shell in the same plane.
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How to measure handlebar diameter? I don't know my bike's stock handlebar diameter. I am going to upgrade some parts, for handlebar I tried to read any information written on it but there is only it's brand name. Can you help me please? EDIT: Sorry for my poor English. I am trying to mean the "diameter" by "width", like the cylinder here http://www.nordenexpress.com/images/packaging.gif (For example I thought- the drop bar I want to buy has a "length" of 44cm, not width. Sorry again) My bike has a flat handlebar and I am willing to replace it with a drop bar. Drop bars I've found on online bike stores are mostly 31.8mm. I don't know how to measure the diameter of my flat bar, I don't have calipers. Even if I had calipers, I don't know where to measure; the middle of the bar is thicker, ends are thinner. I am not sure about where is 31.8mm. Just thought maybe it is the diameter of the bar, am I right? If a handlebar (like mine) is said to be 25.4, can you tell how we get the result 25.4? Measure the diameter? Radius? Periphery? <Q> Is it a road dropbar or a MTB riser style bar? <S> These two images should prove useful. <S> If it is a mountain bike style riser or straight bar it's quite simple. <S> If it's a road bar most people (zipp) measure center to center of the drops. <S> Also if it is a Mountain bike were speaking of, most bars will be sold as 730mm or more wide and have pre-printed lines to cut them shorter. <S> There is a lot of preference involved in bar length. <S> I prefer a shorter length than a lot of people my size, some downhill guys prefer 800mm bars, too long for me <S> , I'm good at finding trees! :P <S> This can vary with preference and riding style slightly but is a solid method for the best on bike ergonomics and comfort. <A> That looks like a 31.8mm clamp diameter, but the only way to be sure is to measure. <S> Consider buying calipers. <S> They're a useful tool, and tools are good to have. <S> Otherwise, you can do this: take a strip of paper, fold it around the bar (at the thickest part, in the center), and mark the place on the paper where the two ends meet. <S> Then put the paper flat, and measure from the end to the mark you just made. <S> That will give you the circumference. <S> Divide that by π (~3.14159) <S> and you'll have the diameter. <S> This isn't too accurate, but there's only a small set of sizes to choose from. <A> Calipers. <S> A tape measure. <S> Usually the stem clamp width is 25.4mm MTB and road. <S> Rarely it could be 26mm. <S> At the ends it goes down to 22mm. <S> You might have an oversize bar in which case it is 31.8mm. <A> If you don't have a pair of calipers a crescent wrench will accomplish much the same thing.
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A good reference if its a road bar is about shoulder width in the drops.
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9 speed Shimano shifter with 7 speed drivetrain Can I use a 9 speed shifter with a 7 speed drivetrain, with good shifting and without needing complex adaptations? I am considering that as an alternative for this need: Using only the brake lever, separated from an integrated shifter/brake Suitable Shimano integrated shifter/brake replacement for old STX Shimano STX rear shifter, broken spring Assuming that is ok, are there 9 speed shifters integrated with brake levers for cantilever brakes? I have mostly seen 9-speed brifters for disc or V-brakes, but not for cantilever. PS: There are posts related to 8 speed shifters with a 7 speed drivetrain, but I have not seen anything for 9 speed shifters 8 speed shifter with 7 speed cassette Can you use a 8 speed Shimano shifter with a 7 speed cassette? <Q> Can I use a 9 speed shifter with a 7 speed drivetrain, with good shifting and without needing complex adaptations? <S> Kinda, maybe, sort of... its complicated You could use a Shimano 7 speed derailleur with a 9 speed shifter, if you also used a wheel with a 9 speed cog. <S> The 7 and 9 speed Shimano derailleurs use the same derailleur ratio of 1.7 (amount of derailleur movement for a given cable pull) despite the two systems having different cable pulls (2.9 and 2.5 respectively) and sprocket pitches (5.00 and 4.35 respectively). <S> If you are currently on 7 Speeds, this means you have a 7 speed wheel that will most likely NOT take a 9 speed cassette. <S> This would mean you would need to buy a new rear wheel as well as a new 9 speed cassette in order to keep you 7 speed rear derailleur. <S> You would also need a 9 speed chain (which is narrower) to mesh with the 9 speed cassette, which may or may not work okay with your 7 speed chain rings. <S> For pull ratios see http://blog.artscyclery.com/science-behind-the-magic/science-behind-the-magic-drivetrain-compatibility/ <A> The width of a 7-speed chain is greater than the width of a 9-speed chain, therefore the component sizes, and the distance you need to shift, are different, even if only slightly. <S> Whether this is enough to spoil your ride, only you can judge. <S> A shop or a manufacturer might be somewhat more definite in their answer, but there is some grey area here which boils down to your idea of "acceptable". <A> It won't work. <S> On a 7-speed cassette, the cogs are 5.0 mm apart (center-to-center). <S> On 9-speed, it's 4.34 mm. <S> This means that if you adjust the derailleur so it's in the correct position on the 1st cog, then by the time it gets to the 7th cog, it'll be 4.62 mm off from where it needs to be.
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If you used a 7 speed cassette, with a 9 speed shifter and 7 speed derailleur you would not pull enough cable and the shifts will get mangled. You can try it, but don't expect perfection.
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What are my options for correcting a bent aluminum fork? I have a Cannondale ST700. A few weeks ago, I had a head-on collision. At first glance, the bike was fine. But the next time I went to ride it, it pulled to the side when I turned. Turns out my fork is bent backwards (although it is bent evenly). The bike shop thinks it's bent about 5-15mm. I've ridden it 3 times since the accident and it doesn't feel as stable. The first image below is of the same model bike that I found online. The second image is my bike. Notice how my fork is clearly leaning backwards. Obviously this isn't safe. What are my options for fixing it? Can I just bend the fork forward a little? (It's an aluminum fork) If I need to replace the fork, how can I identify a fork that will work with the bike? The bike has a headshok (it's the back, ring about 1" long between the headset and the fork). I don't really care about losing it, but does it prevent me from putting on a "normal" fork? <Q> From your picture, it is obvious what isn't bent: <S> your fork is perfectly straight from the crown down to the drop outs. <S> Also, the boot which covers the stanchion seems to be quite suggestively aligned with the fork; the bend seems to occur at the top of the boot, just before the head tube. <S> If so, then it is in fact the shock's stanchion which is bent. <S> That part may actually be a steel tube that inserts into the fork's crown. <S> It would help to have a picture with the boot retracted or removed. <S> Here is what I mean, visually: <S> If that stanchion tube is bent, then on top of the steering problems, the suspension isn't going to work. <S> In this case, perhaps just that tube can be replaced instead of the whole fork? <S> That's the optimistic view. <S> The more pessimistic view is that it's bent in two places. <S> Let's rotate it back along these two points to illustrate: <S> In this edited image, I've straightened the boot-covered stanchion so it aligns with the head tube. <S> Then a second bend where the crown meets the tube to add caster to the fork. <S> (Either way, it looks to me like substantially more than a 5-15 mm! <S> That would barely be noticeable in the image. <S> Do they mean 5-15 <S> mm total displacement at the drop-out?) <S> Like anything else, this requires a careful inspection and diagnosis, so that a well-targeted and cost-effective repair can be performed. <A> Aluminium doesn't like bending and rebending (try it with a soda can). <S> I'd make sure that the frame isn't bent and if it isn't, then either get a new fork or an old fork from a donor bike. <S> Your bike shop should help you do either. <S> p.s. <S> The headshock does limit which forks will fit on your bike as it changes the geometry. <A> You should be able to find a second hand fork, with or without the headshok, fairly easily. <S> The Headshok is not too hard to work with <S> , I have an ISO406 fork built to bolt on for my custom touring bike and any framebuilder should be able to make a fork that fits. <S> But I have never really looked at the stock forks to see whether they're designed to be removed from the shock, sorry. <S> What I would say, as someone who owns one, is that Cannondale no longer support the Headshok and it's become difficult to get them serviced. <S> This question has some options, and this page has DIY servicing hints .
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So realistically you can fit a new fork to the shock and ride the bike another few Mm, but when the shock needs servicing you will likely be out of luck. It's not clear what is actually bent. The consensus online seems to be that reducing adapters and a standard suspension fork will work for most people, or a rigid fork if you're not desperately keen on the suspension.
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Why are most BSOs mountain bikes? All department store bikes, that I have witnessed, are mountain bikes. Many of them are even full suspension and some feature dual-crown forks. Why the lack of BSO (Bicycle Shaped Object) road bikes? <Q> When shopping for BSO bikes, people are just looking for a recreational ride that is a once in while, which leads them to focus on the sticker price. <S> Looking at a mountain bike they then get to thinking "Hey, I can ride this around town. <S> I can take it off roading if I wanted too. <S> " <S> , so more bang for their buck. <S> They also tend to look at the other components of the bike <S> , hard narrow saddles just look uncomfortable, drop bars make one think they need to lay down to ride, thin narrow tires surely can't be a as comfortable as fat tires, and "why is there no tread pattern on this tire, it is just for nice weather racing". <A> Consumers buy these bicycles even though they will never use them on anything resembling a mountain trail. <S> A thick frame, thick, knobby tires, and suspension make a bicycle look rugged. <S> This is because the mere appearance of anything is cheaply achieved with a prop which looks like the real thing. <S> If consumers believed that road bike features comprise the best prototype for an all-purpose bicycle, then BSO's would be road-bike-shaped objects. <S> Even the very mass of a bicycle could be associated with ruggedness. <S> Consider that Beats by Dre headphones were found to contain metal weights <S> that serve no purpose other than to make the product feel more massive. <S> This is because the consumer who knows nothing about audio or electronics thinks that a pair of cans that weighs more must be better. <S> (Though there is a point there: better loudspeakers tend to have more massive magnets, which make them more sensitive.) <S> (With regard to tires, there seems to be a widespread belief that the mountain bike tires will grip all kinds of surfaces better, including asphalt: in other words, that they are safer. <S> This is quite unfortunate. <S> Consumers should be educated, for the sake of their own safety, that smooth tires provide the best grip on a wet road, in addition to offering a smoother, quieter ride with less rolling resistance). <S> Someone shopping for a road bike is different from the crowd, and probably more knowledgeable than the average consumer. <S> Possibly much more knowledgeable. <S> They won't be duped by low-quality components. <A> It's much easier to make a chunky looking frame cheaply than to make thin tubing cheaply. <S> The heavier everything is supposed to be the less obvious <S> it is that the BSO is not what it looks like. <S> One key give-away is that the mountain bike is always marked "not suitable for off road use". <S> Road bikes also have to use more expensive components, specifically brifters (combining brake and shifter units in a single mechanism) where mountain bikes can use the separate brake and shifter mechanisms, even though they are often combined into one assemble to reduce the number of steps to put the bike together. <S> The same difficulty occurs when building cheap but effective caliper brakes, although the BSO solution there is IME to fit cheap and ineffective brakes ( <S> the shop I worked in spent a disappointing amount of time trying to find an affordable fixed-gear bike that wasn't a BSO). <S> What I has seen a lot of is more expensive BSOs that look like road bikes or fixies, but despite paying two-ten times what a BSO normally costs, they are still not usable bikes. <S> Most were steel framed, and often used Chinese "4130 CroMo" tubing (which if you see it unpainted is the wrong colour, and is both weaker than and fatigues faster than proper 4130). <S> In Australia a BSO can be had for under $50 if you shop around, and normally run up to about $200-$300. <S> But during the fixie fad we saw BSO-grade fixies costing up to $600 that we couldn't service for all the usual BSO reasons. <S> One was "fixed" by rivets through the drive cog into the hub, for example... and it was brought into the shop because the rivets were loose. <A> A lot of people think that narrow tyres are dangerous for anyone other than experts, and that the narrower the tyre, the more likely they are to fall off. <S> They also don't appreciate that there can be disadvantages in having suspension. <A> In addition to the other answers, the BSO appeals because it is not like the bikes in the purchaser's history. <S> These bikes look nothing like the 70s/80s ten-speed, or the Raleigh 20 style, or the grifters and BMXs of my youth. <S> So when the parents want something "better" for their offspring, the different look appeals. <S> In complete opposition to the above statements, we also have the retro beach cruiser or coffee cruiser bikes. <S> These are a little above a cheap BSO, and have a sit-up-and-beg posture combined with sweeping handlebars and relatively few gears. <S> The pricing is about double what a cheap BSO costs, but the appeal here is the nostalgia and a <S> "this is what older people ride" mentality. <A> This could well be a regional variation. <S> I tend to see that most BSOs are "fast hybrid" commuter style bikes. <S> Straight handlebars, soft saddle, wide road tyres and road suitable gearing. <S> The mountain bikes that were so cool in my youth (1990s) have largely faded out and road bikes with drop handlebars that my father remembers dominating in his youth are coming back in.
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Many BSO's are styled like mountain bikes, probably because the mountain bike features tend to be appealing to people who don't know a lot about bicycles. The appearance of ruggedness is cheaply achieved with inferior components that don't last, are poorly serviceable and heavy. Many BSOs forgo the traditional diamond frame in favour of big chunky monotube designs.
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What is the minimum repair kit/parts I should bring on a 150 mile bikepacking trip? Planning a 150 mile rails-to-trail ride (GAP trail from Pittsburg) with my family of 5. We'd potentially be 10 to 15 miles max from "civilization", probably further from a bike shop. But expect to see other riders on the trail (it's fairly high traffic, with campgrounds every 10 miles or so) What's the minimum I should bring? Bike tools (allen wrenches, screw driver, etc.) Patch kit (tire levers, etc. hand pump) Spare tubes Quicklink (for the two chain sizes we'll have) Planning to have the bikes serviced before leaving.New chains as needed. I'm not super handy with anything more complicated. I have the non bike stuff covered : Camping gear First aid kit Hiking type stuff (rain gear, socks, etc.) <Q> You're not going deep into the back country, and at worst, if a bike broke, you could get back to a safe place after a half-day of gentle hiking. <S> You have everything covered. <S> Have fun. <A> (again, matching the mixture of bikes). <S> If someone who has rim brakes pops a spoke, the rest of the trip won't be as much fun for them. <S> Spokes tend to break on the cassette side of the rear hub, requiring cassette removal to insert the new one. <S> Also a chain pin press for opening/closing. <S> The extra quick links are of little use by themselves; you're unlikely to lose the ones that are on your chain now for a straight replacement. <S> If a chain breaks or a link gets bent, you will likely need the chain tool to remove a bad link before you can put it together with the quick links. <S> There is probably no need to get carried away: <S> keep the bottom bracket removal tools and such at home. <S> You probably won't be rebuilding suspension forks, or taking apart derailleurs and such. <S> Speaking of getting dirty: bring a decent quantity of the pumice-type mechanic's hand cleaner . <S> You fixed that broken chain and spoke, and want to get on your way, but your hands are filthy, leaving black grime on everything you touch. <S> Related to this: consider bringing a pair of work gloves. <A> There's so much more you need to consider than simple bike breakdowns. <S> I don't know how remote this track is, but assume worst case you meet noone on the entire ride. <S> So you need to carry: Food and water for your segment, plus enough spare for an overnight. <S> Sunhat each. <S> Change of clothes - biking in wet is no fun. <S> Barefoot/socks is not a good plan. <S> Medical requirements, a thermal space blanket if you get stuck, good for shock too. <S> Cellphones on the limit of coverage use their charge faster because they're transmitting at full power to find a cell. <S> If coverage is non-existent, what would you do in the event of a medical need? <S> Split the party and ride off to get help? <S> Being only 10 miles (16 km) from help is no reason to go unprepared. <S> Consider how you're going to carry all this... backpacks are not ideal. <S> Racks and panniers are okay but get caught on things. <S> Depending on the age and capacity of your younger family members, you may need to help them. <S> A tow-bar like a trailgator can help the little kids keep up.
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Sunblock and rain coats and warm clothes. 150 miles isn't all that far, but if I had five people, I'd bring a chain whip, spanner and cassette removal tool, some spoke wrenches (in the right sizes for everyone's spoke nipples) and spokes in various sizes Fully charged cellphones if you expect coverage there, and a USB battery+cable. Walking shoes - if anyone uses cleats carry some way of walking as well. Frame bags are good but not cheap.
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I have a hybrid bike which the frame is too big, is there any modifications I can make to make it more comfortable? I bought a hybrid bike from halfords around 6 months ago, however i have only recently had chance to ride it. I have found that the frame is too big, they wont exchange or give me a refund. I was wondering if there was any modifications i could make for it to feel more comfortable? <Q> You have a couple of options, lowering the seat and changing the stem, or some combination of both. <S> Local co-ops or bike clubs would be a place to start for this. <S> As for changing the components you may consider an adjustable stem so that you can do the fine tuning your self, rather than buying a 70mm reach stem and realizing it didn't really help. <S> You will have to decide what needs to change based on what part of your body is uncomfortable. <S> If you feel stretched out like your reaching to far forward a shorter stem will bring your handlebars in a little. <S> If you legs are being over extended drop the seat post a little and see how it feels. <S> They will charge for a proper fit, but with beer they should be fine with giving some advice and options free of charge. <S> If they are not, find a new shop. <S> This site has some good information to explain it to beginners. <S> As does REI <A> I ride a bike that is a bit too tall for my daily commuter. <S> Everything else is great, but it is a tall bike for me, so that I have to lean it over a bit when I stop at a light, or tip toe if I keep straight up with my butt on the saddle. <S> I'm fine with it <S> and it is still comfortable for my commuting needs. <S> I don't think I would ride it with clips or straps, though! <S> People ride actual double-frame tallbikes, so I don't see a fatal error here. <S> If you are unwilling to take the comment advice above, and are committed to riding on this frame and modifying things, you could look into moustache handlebars or cruiser handlebars. <S> They are swept back more than the standard hybrid flat bars, which will give you a hand position that is closer to your body, and should make your ride significantly more comfortable. <S> You'll have to redo your whole cockpit with new cables, and I was a little wobbly until I got used to having my hands behind my steerer rather than in line or in front of it, but it has become natural and enjoyable. <A> You change the position of the bars up and down by moving the stem position on the fork steerer tube and altering the number / position of the spacers. <S> However, saying that try a bike before you buy is better. <S> And putting miles in will tell you what size you are. <S> All people are different / bikes are different. <S> Otherwise you can go for custom bike fitting. <A> I just perchased a bike and bought it a little bigger then my size, I might not be able to bounce my by bike when standing over it, but I enjoy the larger ride. <S> Thank you for your answers. <S> A reader Bob D.
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If your frame feels large you can get a shorter stem, lower the seat, move the seat forward, get riser bars or 'trekking bars' rather than drop bars. One other option would be to find someone that has a similar quality bicycle that is slightly small for them and trade! One other option would be to show up at your local bike shop with a 12 pack and ask for advice.
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why would my chain slip on the road, but not when the bike is on a stand? The chain on my bike has started to slip a lot -- every couple of seconds when riding. It happens, as far as I can tell, in every gear, and is unrelated to shifting. The precise nature of the problem is hard to diagnose because I can not make it happen when the bike is on a stand, it happens only on the road. What kind of chain/derailleur problem would manifest only on the road and never when the bike is on a stand? <Q> You likely have a problem with worn drivetrain components. <S> You only really notice the jumping under load is my experience. <S> It's either a worn chain or a worn cassette in most cases. <S> If you replace the cassette, replace the chain too. <S> Surprisingly enough, a worn chain and a worn cassette may work well together till one of the two parts are replaced. <A> If the problem was worse in some gears, I'd say you have worn-out cogs. <S> But you say that it doesn't depend on the gear... <S> So I'm going to guess that your freewheel mechanism is failing, and the pawls are slipping when they're under heavy load. <A> When all drivetrain parts serviced and in good repair, this problem doesn't happen. <S> Couple of things you can check: <S> Front and Rear derailleur adjusted properly. <S> Check the chain stretch. <S> How worn out is the cassette? <S> I don't presume to tell people what to pay for; but bringing your bike into a good local bike shop for a tune is the fastest way to get this fixed. <S> They may also notice if you have other unnoticed issues, parts in need of replacement or grease can make for a more enjoyable riding experience. <S> Bike tunes can range from $50-$300 in my area, all depending on the level of work to be done. <S> The $50 tune is the most basic, pump tires, clean and oil chain, adjust gears (minor adjustments <S> no extra parts like cables), adjust brakes. <S> Where the $300 tune is a full breakdown of the bike. <S> Everything get's put into the part wash, new cables (shifters and breaks) <S> so on and on... <S> Thank should cover it, Good luck. <A> Similar thing happened to me before but not in that amount that chain would slip completely. <S> I was also using bike stand and after adjusting gears (while bike was on bike stand), my chain was slipping a little on every cog during ride. <S> I think, there is a slight possibility if you use this kind of bike stand , that when you place your bike on the stand, clamp that holds frame in place, tightens the gear cables. <S> That could be the reason why some things work on bike stand and fail when you ride your bike. <A> As Mike answered, mostly the chain slips when the cogs are worn, thou, <S> as he pointed, it's common to start with some gears, not all of them. <S> Only one time I saw a cassette worn out <S> so it was slipping on all the cogs. <S> Second thing to check is the chain. <S> When the chain is worn (or not proper length) it can slip also. <S> But if it happened after only after a service in bike shop, I'd guess, it's bad tuning they done. <S> But yet maybe you had the problem with components a little bit worn, and now you just feeling it more. <A> I will describe my bike 'problem' so you can see whether it fits with your problem. <S> I know what the reasons are and how to solve them, so it is not an ' <S> I also have this problem' answer. <S> I have the problem of a slipping chain and on my bike it is clearly a tension wheel that moves out of its place, so in fact the chain is not tensioned enough. <S> The slippage starts when there is stress on the chain, like when riding away from the traffic lights and on the steep parts of hills. <S> When the wheel moves a bit more/the chain becomes a bit longer compared to what is should be, the slipping becomes more general, if still worse when trying to increase speed. <S> In the last stage, the chain jumps in every stroke of the pedals and cycling <S> becomes impossible. <S> (Then I take out the tools and fight the system so the tension wheel will be in the proper position for a while.) <S> Unless your bike is in the 'last stage' you will not be able to copy it on the stand as you do not put the same amount of power on the chain, so do not get the same stresses on it. <S> This is on my recumbent bike, which has a long chain and is designed for lots of adjustments for different riders. <A> It happens when you put pressure on the chain, not when switching gears, right? <S> (Chain rings wear off and become less able to grip the chain. <S> I had to replace my chain ring a few months ago when that happened. <S> Replacing chain rings doesn't mean replacing the whole crank. <S> For Cogs sometimes you can swap out just the bottom most worn cogs. <S> Chains have to be replaced every 2000k or so on a MTB, probably less often on a road bike.
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If it's a more recent issue, usually this happens due to wear & tear on Chain/Cogs/Chain ring. It is always best option to attach bike stand clamp to seat post (beneath the seat) and not on some other part of bike frame (where center of gravity is) where you can accidentally stretch cables.
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Shoulder pain caused by messenger bag? I have a professional messenger bag (chrome mini metro messenger) I have been carrying for about 2 months. The bag weighs around 3 lbs and I generally carry about 4 lbs of stuff in it. Biketools, phone charger, gloves etc. Its less than 8 lbs and I still get shoulder pain. I am 190lbs and 5'10 Am wondering if there is something I am doing wrong - I see a lot of messengers in the city with huge bags and always wonder if they have shoulder pain from carrying bags on one side for years. Below the actual bag although i have it higher up without using the side strap. <Q> Take a look at your riding position. <S> When I was much younger (about 10-12 years ago) I used a messenger pack all the time while in an aggressive riding position (e.g., track bike / road bike) . <S> In that position I found your lower back supports most the weight of the bag. <S> In a more upright position it pulls on your shoulder more. <S> As a test, try walking around for a while with one... <S> it sucks. <S> If you prefer a more upright riding position (no judgement!) <S> then a messenger bag may simply not be the right fit -- sorry pun intended, my bad . <A> You may want to use a cross strap if you have one (a strap that goes over the chest) to help stabilize the bag, and play with where the messenger bag sits. <S> The width of the bag's strap also can have an effect, as well as the level of padding. <S> They aren't for everyone, and some people would be better served with a backpack. <S> For an actual messenger, a messenger bag makes sense, since they can quickly deliver their messages while hoping on and off the bike. <S> If you're just going to work and only unpacking when you get there and when you go home, you don't have that advantage. <A> Is it one of those bags that go on only 1 shoulder? <S> I've delivered news papers in England for 6 years, our bags would be close to 10 pounds on a sunday. <S> I found that my shoulder hurt a lot after a while. <S> I started swapping the shoulder I would wear the bag on. <S> One day on the left, one day on the right. <S> That seemed to work a bit better. <S> Alternatively you might want to try bags with belt straps around the stomach, but they might be tedious if you need access very often. <S> [edit] <S> I used to wear one of these: (not me on the picture, but same bag): I used it for about 1-2 hours daily for about 6 years. <S> At the start of a round it was very heavy, getting lighter as I went along. <S> Looking at your bag, it might be that it can only be worn on one shoulder(?). <S> You might either want to get a mirrored version of that bag or get one that works well for both shoulders. <S> For me, I found that the pain was also in part because one shoulder got really strong and bulky, while the other was relatively small. <S> Balancing out helped somewhat. <S> But also with time things get better as your body adapts to the load/stress. <S> Gud lucks.
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I've also found that a loose bag, which can move around a lot, can cause pain while biking versus a bag that is held snug (but not too tightly) on long rides.
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My rear wheel isn't properly spinning. How can I tell whats wrong? I'm just getting back into cycling after a long hiatus. My bike is a little old and worn and its got some issues. The biggest one is the rear wheel. My rear wheel spins, but it seems to be off center. When I look at the wheel spin the distance between it and the brakes varies. Also when I squeeze the brakes the break pads don't reach the wheel. How do I tell which part of the bike is messed up? Some thoughts I had: The wheel itself is bent. Possible since it was in accidents before. The wheel is attached to the bike at an angle. Possible since I did self repairs before and I'm not super experiences in bike repairs. The wheel isn't fully 'screwed in' (not sure what the proper term is) to the bike frame. Unlikely since it doesn't seem to wobble at all. The brakes are messed up and the closer-farther effect is just an optical illusion. Also possibly relevant: 3 spokes on the wheel are broken. How can I tell which of these possibilities is causing my issues, or if its a different issue? And if so, how do I fix it? <Q> You should take it to your local bike shop and get the wheel dished and trued. <S> It is probably a mix of both those issues. <S> Depending on how bad it is you may need to replace the wheel entirely. <A> You need to replace the spokes. <S> Just one is enough to put the wheel out of true. <S> Once the spokes are replaced you use a spoke key (a special spanner) to tension the spoke nipples to drag the rim back into round. <S> This is a fiddly job which takes time, but is not beyond a home workshop. <S> Once the wheel's rim is running straight your other problems should be resolved. <S> You can take the wheel to a bike shop for this too - Downside <S> is the labour to replace a spoke <S> is 10x <S> the cost of a spoke itself. <A> If the wheel wobbles slightly, you don't need to replace the spokes just look for one or two that are loose, use a spoke key to tighten the spoke/spokes that are loose. <S> You can spin the wheel holding a piece of chalk near the rim of the wheel and move the chalk in until it rubs on the rim, this will show you where the wheel is out of line it should only be in one place. <S> You then tighten the spokes on the opposite side and this will pull the wheel back into line. <S> Alternatively go around the spokes and see which ones are loose and tighten them but be careful and don't over-tighten just do it gradually as you could end up making the problem worse. <S> don't just tighten one side really tight, tighten one side until it nips then the other side and repeat until properly tightened. <S> Check that the brake mechanism isn't seized up <S> this could also be the problem.
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If you have put the wheel in out of line this could also be the problem, loosen the nuts, and use the frame to realign, ie make sure that the gap on either side is the same using the frame as a guide, tighten up gradually,
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Why/how did flat bars take over? Is there a verifiable reason for the ubiquity of flat bars on bikes these days?-- if so, what is it? It seems that 90% of the time I see people riding a newish bike that isn't a Dutch bike/roadster , they are holding their arms straight out in order to grab onto some flat piece of metal covered in rubber. Moreover, if it's a typical "hipster" bike (i.e. an older frame possibly with newer components), even if it has drop bars, the brake levers are not typical "drop-bar-style" brakes but are rather mounted horizontally along the bar tops, meaning that the hooks are more or less useless because you can't brake from them, and the drops are even more dangerous because it's just not possible (for me at least) to quickly move from the drops to the tops quickly while keeping myself stable (My Google-fu doesn't seem to be good enough to find a photo of this phenomenon online). <Q> At this stage low speed manoeuvrability matters more than efficiency. <S> Some people with small hands apparently have trouble braking firmly from the hoods and getting into the drops <S> is tricky for a novice (I dismiss starting in the drops as I've never got on with it). <S> Then people like what they're familiar with if they lack a pressing reason to switch. <S> Drop bars - as you said - need to be right to be comfortable, and the riders who get even the most basic bike shop fitting (not good enough for road bikes really) are in the minority. <S> Cruiser bars (apart from being a horrible angle for your wrists if the top tube is on the short side <S> and/or you have broad shoulders) <S> lead to odd handling on some frame geometries, and make it hard to stand up on the pedals. <S> So they don't work for MTB use. <S> And MTBs have sold well since they went mass market (including in BSO form as evidenced in a recent question here ). <S> This may have something to do with the forgiving geometry - including the hands position. <S> Don't underestimate the value of a bike that doesn't need much fitting (just saddle height) to be adequate. <A> Caveat : <S> This answer features rampant personal speculation and anecdotal evidence. <S> I personally the current dominance of flat bars in mainstream cycling is the result of two main events: <S> The flood of cheap 10 speed knock-offs entered the market in the 70's and 80's. <S> Event 1: Low end 10-speed market dominance <S> Chasing the popularity of road racing and riders, such as Eddie Merckx, the 70's and 80's featured a flood of cheap 10 speed road bike knock-offs that had the primary goal looking similar to the types of bikes that Eddy Merckx et al. were riding at the time. <S> These bikes featured drop bars with poor ergonomics and frames that likely had too low a stack height for mainstream riders. <S> Because these bikes did not fit most people very well, the general public was left with the impression drop bars were uncomfortable and should only be ridden in very aggressive positions. <S> Event 2: Explosion of MTB bikes in the 80's and 90's The mountain bike explosion of the 80's and 90's further maligned drop bars. <S> These bikes featured more upright riding positions due their off-road nature which most people found more comfortable. <S> While early incarnations of mountain bikes featured drop bars (Figure 1), straight bars quickly became a fixed feature (likely for the improved leverage - although this is speculative on my part). <S> Figure 1 . <S> Charlie Cunningham riding an early mountain bike featuring drop bars. <S> As a result, many people associated comfortable with a bike featuring straight handle bars and as a result you essentially have historical contingency determining the current market dominance of flat bars. <S> If you have a background in either evolution or genetics, this is can be view similar to how an an allele can become fixed in a population by random chance (i.e., genetic drift ). <S> Finally, I find it fascinating that " dirt drops " have been making a come back in recent years. <S> What is old, is new again... either that or we are still experiencing genetic drift! <A> OPINION <S> Drop bars should never have been popular. <S> There was a surge in popularity for the "ten-speed" in the 70s and 80s, and part of that look was drop bars. <S> This artificially made drops seem like a common thing and a good idea. <S> As the MTB arrives in the 90s, flat bars re-exert themselves for the added width and leverage, returning drop bars to their less-common status, where they should have been. <S> Exacerbating this fall-from-cool is that road bikes are getting more slammed or aggressive, with higher seats and lower bars. <S> Compare Fignon in the 1980s: ... <S> with a more recent Contador ride, this is a TdF bike from the last couple years: <S> http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.co.nz/2013/10/changing-positions.html is a great read on the subject. <S> Personally, I am on the hoods most of the time, moving to the tops for a steep climb, and pretty much never on the drops - My thighs hit my stomach while pedalling which is horrid, plus the other crunched things complain. <S> Edit: after a couple years my belly no longer hits my thighs while on the drops, so I can stay there for a good 10 km if its windy.
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The explosion of MTB bikes in the 80's and 90's (which featured flat bars). Flat bars are easier to learn on than drop bars (unless the latter have interrupter brake levers). Some people (e.g. me) like the extra height of flat bars for seeing and being seen over cars.
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50/34 vs 52/36 crankset for 11-32 cassette (shimano 105 5800FC) Following up on this enlightening answer , I would like to know the differences between 50/34(compact), 52/36(mid-compact) and 53/39 (standard).The cassette I am choosing is 11-32 to give me a wider flavour of gears but normally I don't use the lower(bigger teeth sprocket) gears, I've just trained like this. I put more power on small slopes rather than shifting down the gears. Thus, I was also thinking to go for 11/28 but then fixed 11/32 as my cassette. What would be the best crankset to go with it? By default, its 50/34 but I can choose. I am buying a cross bike from ROSE (DX-2000) and would mostly use it as a road bike for long distance (>100KM). I need a configuration where I can have the smallest gear possibility, in other words, I can put in maximum power and effort (which I miss in my current racing bike with Campagnolo Xenon 9 Speed set, I don't know the exact cassette configuration but its missing the few sprockets :D) Thanks <Q> For me - the range is too wide and the gaps between the gears too big. <S> But - this depends on the kind of riding you will be doing. <S> Purely for fast road work - that's too wide a combination <S> (for my personal taste).The other thing you will have to consider is the rear mech. <S> For such a wide range you will need to go with a mid or long cage rear mech. <S> I don't think it will work with a standard short cage. <S> However, I have used 50/34 with 11/28 on a short cage - and that has been OK. <S> Try the Sheldon Brown gear calculator to work out the combination which will work for you. <S> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gear-calc.html <A> The difference is simply in the number of teeth on the chainring, and therefore the distance that the chain will travel when you turn the crank. <S> With the standard crank you will be pushing the chain further, and therefore given the same cassette, the standard chainring will provide longer gearing than a compact, and require more power to turn. <S> There are tables available which show the gear inches for different sizes of chainring and cassette. <S> Interestingly a 50/11 will provide a longer gear than a 52/12, meaning that a 50 tooth chainring and 11 tooth rear sprocket will be 'faster' than a 52 tooth chainring with a 12 tooth rear sprocket. <S> A 34/30 gear is a very high ratio and is similar to what you would get from a triple crankset. <S> If you chose the compact chainset then it might be more appropriate to use a the 11/28 cassette. <S> you even if you have an 11spd cassette you might find there are times you cant get a gear which you can comfortably spin, or <S> the change in cadence required to go from one gear to another <S> is awkward. <S> It will also mean you will need a longer cage rear mech, as the chain will need to be longer. <A> Here's another gear-inch calculator that may be easier to use: http://cycleseven.org/bicycle-gear-inch-calculator <S> Basically, the 52/36 will allow 5% higher top-speed before spinning-out compared to the 50/34. <S> (Many say that your aero-tuck and other factors are more important at those speeds anyway.) <S> But on the hills, you'll find the 36 to be harder to turn than the 34. <S> Same logic applies to the 53/39, but even more drastic of a change. <S> Unless you're road racing, you'll likely find the 50/34 the most versatile. <S> Like you, I also used to power-up the bunny hills, but have since changed to a high-cadence approach. <S> (It will keep your legs fresher for a longer period.) <S> Now that I'm taking KOMs on my 45lb cross commuter, I'm starting to consider more competitive uses and the swap from 50/34 to 52/36. <S> But the 8-10% grade hills around my house have me second-guessing... <A> 52/36 is perfect! <S> You'll rarely find troubles with the 11-28. <S> I took the leap from 50/34 on 11-32 to the above set up, huge jump in speed immediately with no real issues with hills, even steep grades. <S> I just got a new bike that came equipped with a 53/39 on 11-28, now I'm really worried, considering swapping chain rings to 52/36. <A> I have a 52/39 crank set with an hg51 11/32 cassette. <S> The rear derailleur is a Sora rd-3000 and a Sora sl4000 downtube shifter. <S> It works perfectly. <S> For steep hills and for speed. <S> Had an hg51 8 speed 11/28 and changed it. <S> Where I live there are steep hills.
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Importantly, you should consider what cassette goes best with the chainset you have chosen. 50/34 with and 11/32 on the rear is going to be very spinny. If you are riding the very steepest of mountains - than the 34/32 combination might be what you are looking for. Choosing a big widely spaced cassette like an 11/30 means the gears will be quite spaced out and
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Inner chainring bent on 6 week old MTB I bought a new Voodoo Bizango 2015 6 weeks ago. When I was out earlier I changed down and the chain somehow got wedged between the 2 front chainrings (It's 2x10) and bent the inner ring. I've read on here that this just shouldn't happen unless the chainring was a bit dodgy. Do you folks think Halfords will cover the part or should I just bite the bullet and get a new chainset? I went into Halfords earlier but have to book the bike in for next week....i'm not very patient :) Alternatively, I've been trying to find a replacement chainring. How compatible are these? The chainset is SR Suntour CW-XCM-D 22/36T. I'd prefer to go this route so I can buy a couple of them in case it happens again. I can't find the Suntour chainring but there's plenty of Shimano 22T 64BCD online, I'm just not 100% if they will be correct for the bike. Here's the badness <Q> This could have also been a loose mounting bolt causing the excessive gap. <S> So here's the way warranty works. <S> The bike shop looks at your bike. <S> They make a recommendation to the manufacturer about what caused the defect. <S> If they believe it was loose bolts on the small sprocket from the factory slightly bent sprocket from the factory, made worse by the chain falling off wrong chain used for the application (8,9,10 + sprocket chain width) <S> and they manufacturer says yes, they will re-imburse your local bike shop for the repair <S> then you have a winner. <S> In some cases the manufacturer says no, they didn't cause that defect. <S> In that case the bike shop could build goodwill with you by repairing it at their cost to keep you as a happy customer. <S> Talk to your bike shop. <S> DONT touch the area with tools at all (let the bike shop to that as part of fault assessment...) <S> If that fails, and the bike shop says sorry, you are out of luck in obtaining a free repair there are always other options. <S> If its aluminum, toss it and get a new sprocket. <S> They really don't cost very much. <A> The front mech may have been misaligned and you've applied weight at a moment when it's not fully shifted. <S> Your weight has bent the chain ring. <S> I have bent a SR Suntour chainring in a similar manner. <S> Depends on the store and the sales person on the day or how hard you're willing to fight it really. <S> However, reading reviews on the 2015 Voodoo Bizango, it appears to be a decently spec'd bike on a really good frame. <S> The SR Suntour crankset looks to be a weakness <S> so you should consider upgrading to a better crankset. <S> Even if Halfords replace it it'll still be a weak point on the bike. <A> Either the bike was built using badly matched components or something <S> was wrong (bent) to start with. <S> I suspect the latter as that's a chainset for 10 speed chains - unless that was specified but a different model was fitted in error. <S> It's hard to see how you could bend only an inner chainring inwards accidentally. <A> What happened at the moment it bent? <S> Were you in a super low gear and booting the pedal down? <S> You said earlier its a Halfords bike, which to me is a BSO made of cheap metal for the lowest price. <S> Is this it? <S> http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/mountain-bikes/voodoo-bizango-29er-mountain-bike <S> Curiously its priced well above the normal level for discount bikes. <S> I'd put it down to one or more of <S> Your leg is too powerful for the cheap bike <S> Your chainring was extra weak right there <S> There was a stone or stick jammed in the chainring that made the chain only partially mesh. <S> The bike was momentarily in a hole or caught on a lip <S> You were going uphill strenuously <S> Chain was loose and slapped to the left, missing a tooth <S> Since its 6 weeks old, this should be covered by warranty. <S> Take it back and politely request your consumer rights. <S> *varies by location of course. <S> Are you over the maximum permitted weight for the bike? <S> This might void your warranty, as could "riding this bike off-road or stunting or jumping" <S> Did you self-assemble or pay the shop to do it?
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A chain shouldn't even come close to fitting between the chain rings if all the parts are selected to work together. Work with your bike shop to come to a resolve that makes everyone happy. This could also void your warranty. If you are a do it yourself person, you could remove the right side crank, remove the small sprocket, and bend it flat again (if its steel). Halfords have grounds to say it's a user vs a product issue and may not replace it. You can generally get well priced shimano deore level cranks or similar SRAM crankset which would be a good replacement while not over spec'd for the bike.
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What's the strongest way to bond a cable stop to an aluminum frame? I recently picked up another well loved GT road bike frame- it's in great shape aside from a missing downtube cable stop. The model is a ZR 4000 probably from 1999, it's 7005 heat treated aluminum. My best guess is that the cable stop was originally glued or bonded to the frame somehow based on a lack TIG weld lines or braze. I'm not sure if the cable stop snapped off from poor storage or when the frame was in use last. It's a CL find and lived in a garage for a number of years. What's the best way to reattach a new downtube stop? Would I have a stronger bond if the new cable stop was aluminum or plastic? I have a great work space with appropriate ventilation and equipment, but after preliminary research I've found a lot of aluminum specific products (like those used on airplanes) can't be purchased online or by individuals, so whatever product needs to be accessible in that regard. I'm also open to non-adhesive/epoxy solutions, but the tubing is ovalized and very oversized, so using downtube shifter clamps doesn't seem feasible. As a last resort, would using a hose clamp be safe on ovalized, aluminum tubing once I got it tight enough to withstand the forces of shifting? As a last, last resort, I am prepared to run cable housing all the way from the brifter to the cable guides under the bottom bracket. I'd like a pretty bike, but ultimately this one is just for riding and not show. <Q> Good epoxy is known to bond metals, especially aluminum very well. <S> Make sure the surfaces are clean and slightly rough for a better bond. <S> I use the same two part epoxy hobbyist aircraft builders use for fixing pretty much anything, including broken ceramic mugs, small broken metal things and even as an insulator on the bottom of PCBs to prevent any shorts. <S> When looking for replacement cable stops try to get something with a solid base and not hollow so you can glue the whole thing down. <S> Another solution could be solder. <S> It will be stronger but look a little asymmetrical, but as long as you do it to the other cable stop too it should look fine. <S> It melts at a low enough temperature for nothing to happen to the heat treatment of the aluminum. <S> I take no responsibility for the frame if you do this however <S> , it's only my guess, and is completely untested. <S> Would like some input by someone who knows a little more about solder and hest treated aluminum about this solution, it seems workable <A> Since you have a relatively "flat" spot there (at least flat in the longitudinal direction) you have two options: <S> You can epoxy on a replacement boss <S> I did this on a recent Al frame with the exact same problem. <S> I bought a metal (steel) cable boss from the local bike builder and epoxied it myself. <S> I used Loctite's Metal/Concrete epoxy since it's designed for: machinery, appliances, tools, lawnmowers, automotive components, pipes, embedding bolts and screws into metals, concrete or stone and sealing electrical components against moisture and vibration <S> Although lots of other epoxies will probably work. <S> If you do this be sure to read the instructions on the epoxy, clean the surfaces on both parts, and create a good clamp for the piece. <S> It'll take 24 hours to dry fully and you aren't going to achieve good results by holding it with your hands. <S> Once's it's dried be sure to test it by attaching whatever brake/ <S> derailleur the boss is for(in your case the rear derailleur) and running cable through it. <S> You need to be sure that the epoxy will hold the forces that will actually be applied by the brake/derailleur <S> ** <S> Don't expect your results to look pretty though. <S> you can rivet on an replacement boss <S> There are many options here depending on what type of cable stop you need. <S> You could easily do this your self <S> but you'll likely end up with a rivet gun and a box of 100 rivets you'll never use again (on a bike at least). <S> Whatever method you chose, I'd suggest completing it before any of the rest of your bike build (I'm guessing from the missing front end that you're rebuilding this bike). <S> If you can't get it fixed you might have to scrap (or at least rethink) <S> the project and you don't want to waste any money on other parts until you know for sure. <S> Regarding welding: Aside from the heat issue of welding aluminum, you'll also have a tough (impossible?) <S> time finding someone who can weld a steel boss onto an aluminum frame. <S> Or you'll have an impossible task of finding an aluminum boss to use instead. <S> Think about it.. <S> there's a reason the manufacture glued the boss on in the first place. <S> ** <S> Be extra careful if you are repairing a brake boss. <S> It holds more force and obviously has more dire consequences if it breaks off again. <A> I tried epoxying the frame stop onto the frame, and took utmost care but front deraileur cable stop came off. <S> Now I am considering this "On Frame Cable Stop, Alloy Double, 31.8mm , Black" instead.
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From the looks of it the original was only glues around the edge which is probably why it came of.
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replacing wheels on a hybrid running on 700c Using 700c wheels limits the choice of tyres and when touring tyres might be hard to find. Is there a problem in using 26 in wheels instead. <Q> Brakes, tyre clearance, and lowered ground clearance are the three points. <S> If you have rim brakes, give up now. <S> They simply will be wrong, and buying super-long reach brakes will be expensive and won't work very well for leverage reasons. <S> Disk brakes may work okay, provided the rotor lines up, and your fork spacing is acceptable. <S> However 26" tyres are often 1.75 or 2" <S> so there may be clearance issues. <S> You'd probably have to go for smaller and not knobby tyres. <S> The bike will be sitting lower to the ground now too. <S> This will increase the chance of pedal strike going around corners, and the break-over height will be less, so you could strike the big chainring on the ground easier. <S> Surprisingly the wheelbase length will not change. <S> So "handling" should be unchanged. <S> Finally, the aesthetics will look somewhat weird, but that's only a visual thing. <A> Handling will also be affected by having a lower centre of gravity. <S> In theory the original wheel size would optimise the bike design and performance, though, as illustrated by Hicks and Criggie considerations. <A> Yes. <S> Your frame has to be designed for the size of wheel that you are using. <S> If you want to switch to 26 inch wheels, you are going to need to get a new frame.
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Tire/Tyre clearance should be okay because your new rim would be smaller.
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How do you clip your helmet to your bag when not wearing it? I've been using a carabiner through the strap to clip my helmet to my backpack. But it seems clumsy, and the helmet dangles around a lot. I've seen other people with helmets closely mounted on a bag. How do they do it? Is there some kind of clip for this purpose? <Q> You can make your own retention system for any bag which will hold the helmet secure and close to the bag. <S> I've done this on a number of my bags as I carry both bicycle and climbing helmets at times and there is never enough space for them inside a bag as they're such awkward shapes. <S> Buy some elasticated cord (often called shock cord) and some cord locks of an appropriate size for the diameter of the shock cord you have. <S> Threading this through a strap or <S> some webbing on the bag and leaving the cord locks outermost will give you a size adjustable retaining loop that will hug the helmet to the bag. <S> Alternatively, find something (I've used shaped pieces of wood or plastic) that will fit lengthways through a vent on your helmet, but is too long to fit through the vent when rotated sideways. <S> This becomes your toggle, tie this to the shock cord and you can use a single length (easier and neater to tuck away when not in use) with the toggle at the end. <S> To fasten the helmet, push the toggle through a vent and twist it sideways so it can't fall back through the vent. <S> EDIT: a video demonstration and a couple of photos for you. <S> Other manufacturers do this, Osprey and their 'lid lock' feature are just the one that came to mind for me to search out images. <S> a Youtube video of Osprey bag with 'lid lock' feature <S> (source: tri-sports.com ) <S> (source: netdna-cdn.com ) <A> I just use the strap with its own clip. <S> It does swing around though. <S> Some bags have an elastic net that works very well <S> (I have a rucksack that does this <S> but I hardly ever ride with it). <S> Can you get the carabiner through both sides of the strap? <S> That might help. <S> It might be too tight though. <S> Replacing the carabiner with a strap you can pull tighter might be a good compromise. <A> Stick on or sew on Velcro fastener on the strap close to the helmet and on a suitable part of the back pack or an industrial size press stud fastener. <S> Hopefully you do not plan to carry the helmet on your back pack when you are riding <A> I would suggest following - try to clip helmet chin strap around both backpack shoulder straps or, if backpack is not too big, try to clip it around whole backpack. <S> (If your backpack is large enough you can put helmet inside it :). <S> Tbh, I have backpack which has dedicated helmet holder <S> but I rarely use it. <S> I find it much faster to hang it around stem and handlebars. <S> That way it is much faster to put your helmet on compared to taking off backpack, untying helmet and putting it back on. <A> This answer concerns mountain biking. <S> My backpack has a dedicated helmet holding piece, but I don't use it, as inserting or removing the helmet requires adjusting 6 adjustment straps. <S> Instead, for longer climbs, when wearing a helmet would only be filling my eyes with sweat, I clip the chin strap under both of the top cover straps. <S> This keeps the helmet mostly in place. <S> On the other hand, on a short climb, or when in the city I want to enter a shop, I clip the shoulder strap to the plastic ring on the shoulder strap. <S> That way I can put the helmet on and off without stopping riding. <S> On a side note, I use those rings also for protective glasses and cable lock. <S> For me, both of those methods result in gradual stretch at the buckle of the chin strap, so the helmet needs to be re-adjusted now and then. <S> Experience on a couple of 2 mid-range helmets, mostly dirt road and trail riding.
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There is also possibility to use rubber strap with hooks to fasten your helmet.
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Can I use a hardtail for MTB trail riding? So, I have a tight budget of 600 USD. Now, I just wanted to say that I live in a big city, but I do want to ride trails more often. My intended use with the bike is to ride trails, and perform techniques like bunny hopping, manual, etc in order to ride streets. But after researching, I found that trail bikes are usually full suspensions - much more expensive than my budget. Can I ride trails with hardtails (120mm forks) and whether I should build my own bike or buy new. <Q> Plus, it will be way more comfortable riding in the city. <S> Secondly, given your budget, i would suggest you didn't make a custom one. <S> Buy a new one. <S> There are lots of good ones on that budget. <A> You can ride anything on anything... have a look for "Martin Ashton Road Bike Party" on Youtube to see what I mean. <S> The original mountain bikes were fixed frame bikes with wide (1.9") knobbly tyres and an extra chain ring at the front. <S> Don't get taken in by the "need" for suspension. <S> You don't need it, that's why your elbows and knees bend. <S> Having said that - do your homework and find the best you can get for the money, not just the most expensive. <S> And read the reviews! <A> I ride a Giant Talon hard tail MTB with 27:5 in tires that cost around 650 offroad all the time here in Montana on the rocky uneven trails of the Bitterroot mountains. <S> I also ride it in town almost every day as my main source of transportation. <S> Hard tail mountain bikes are also great for bikepacking with panniers or a trailer. <S> I use both and the stability of the bike is great as well as gearing and geometry. https://www.adventurecycling.org/adventure-cyclist/online-features/how-to-mountain-bike-tour/ . <A> Yes, you can absolutely use a hardtail for trail riding. <S> In fact some manufacturers are making hardtails specifically designed for this, with slack head angles and beefy forks. <S> As an example, here is the Orange Crush (plenty of other choices out there), with a 66deg head angle, 140mm fork and clearance for 2.4" tyres. <S> as usually hardtails around this price point will have a steeper head angle more suited to XC riding and not so good suspension fork (both in terms of ride quality and stiffness).
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First and foremost... Yes, you can definitely ride trails on a hardtail and it will help you get lots of technical skills that a full suspension bike wouldn't give you, unless you jumped class (enduro) on a trail bike. For your budget I would look for a good quality second hand bike,
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Bicycle crank is wobbly My bicycle's crank is sorta wobbly - it tilts left or right, according to pressure applied to pedals. How do I fix it? What tools do I need? Video showing the wobble. <Q> The "bottom bracket" assembly is loose. <S> Or there may have been some sort of failure of the bearings. <S> Regardless, the whole mess will need to be disassembled to a degree, and that requires some special tools (mainly a "crank puller"). <S> So it may be best to take it to a bike shop. <S> Ran into virtually the identical situation today, working on a donated bike. <S> To do the job properly you need a crank puller, a "spanner" for the lockring, and a Park HCW-11 wrench for the "slotted" bottom bracket cup. <S> There are ways to do it without those special tools, but you risk mucking up the threads, etc. <S> And you probably need a new set of bearings (they're likely in "cages"). <A> Looks to me like it is an american to square taper conversion BB, they look like this out of the frame if that is indeed what it is. <S> If that is correct it may just need tightening, also if the BB shell hasn't been damaged you can just get replacement bearings from you LBS if just the bearings are bad. <S> Either option is relatively inexpensive. <S> will more than likely require a crank puller to remove the arms from the axle. <S> YouTube will be your best friend for this sort of repair, its pretty basic but any bottom bracket work can turn into a pain if you haven't done it before. <S> You can google American to square taper bottom bracket installation <S> and i'm sure you will find a plethora of information regarding the repair. <S> Should be a reasonably easy repair for them unless anything else has been damaged by the loose part. <S> Anyone that knows more feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what it appears to be to me at first glance. <A> In case this is of any use to anyone, I've a BTwin Rockrider 500 which had the same symptoms (right pedal tilted downwards approx <S> 2mm and left pedal tilted upwards approx 2mm simultaneously and vice versa when bike being pedalled). <S> It was almost imperceptible when new but steadily got more and more noticeable until it was really doing my head in. <S> After much research on t'internet... <S> I bought a cheap Silverline 241459 bottom bracket tool with 20 splines and a 32mm socket, took the left pedal allen bolt out with an allen key (anti-clockwise), removed the pedal with a bit of leverage near the crank from a big screwdriver, tapped the bottom bracket tool into the splines (it was quite a tight fit) and tightened the bottom bracket (clockwise) until it was tight but not very tight (I don't have a torque wrench). <S> This 100% fixed the problem and cost me approx £7 in total.
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It may just be that it's a one-piece "cartridge" and is rattling around in the frame, or it may be that the unit is "loose bearings" and the bearing caps need to be adjusted. Although your best option would probably be to take it to a shop. Tool wise if it is this style of BB you should be able to dissemble it with basic home tools for the most part, spanner wrench, allen wrenches, etc but it
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Will using this kind of parking rack damage the wheel? In Copenhagen, there are many of these parking racks (as shown in the picture), usually people (like me) will just slip the front wheel in and lock the bike. After using them for a while, I happen to notice the front wheel of my bike appears to be slightly bent. I have not crash the bike before and didn't make any modification to it. Is that using this kind of parking rack to park my bike will cause damage to the wheel? If using these parking rack could harm the bike is there any alternative/safe way to use them? <Q> So, consider backing your bike into one instead of going in frontwards. <S> Downside as ChrisH says is that your lock needs to go from the rack all the way to the front wheel, or use two locks. <S> Also check the stand is bolted to the ground and that there are no cuts through the metal. <A> If your bike is like those pictured then it's highly unlikely unless the wheel gets hit or leant on from the side. <S> That in itself is not implausible in a crowded bike rack. <S> Lightweight road bike wheels are another matter, they have much less lateral strength. <S> Even they would need some sort of sideways force but much less. <S> The big problem with these racks is the almost total lack of security. <S> They're not common round here, and the ones I know of aren't heavily used, so leaning the bike against them is an option even though it blocks most slots. <S> This also protects your wheels. <S> Blocking most of the track is probably not a fair option in Copenhagen. <A> I have a similar rack at home <S> and I find that putting the back wheel in is better (even with derailleur gears the rear wheel is usually stronger), and makes the bike much easier to lock. <S> IME the most likely time for your bike to get damaged is when someone else is inserting or removing a bike, when they bump your bike and it rolls slightly out of the rack then falls sideways. <S> I often use a strap or cable lock to pull the bike into the rack when using that style in public, but at home I have a chock under my front wheel to hold the bike in place (a small piece of wood from the woodchips covering part of our garden). <S> One thing to watch for is clearance between your disk rotor and the rack, because the bars are often just the right size to slip between the spokes and the rotor. <S> Disk rotors are very easy to bend and almost impossible to repair.
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These stands don't hold the bike very well because if the friction grip fails, the bike can roll/move backwards and then fall over as the steering turns. Either luck just the wheel or use a cable lock.
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Increasing stamina while in the office I started to bike again after 3 or more months of hiatus. I'm currently using a XXS Merida Scultura 300 (I previously used a Trinx R300 needed to upgrade because of the wrong geometry). Thing is I lost most of my stamina from my break (no exercise, lots of carbonated drink intake) and I also started using cleats which is kind of hard I fell a lot just from clipping out. I am also a weekend rider. Since I go to the office every weekdays and got no more time to bike before or after work. I asked my friend how can I get back my stamina. What he suggested was to buy ankle weights and wear it every time. Do legs raise while in office and climb the stairs while skipping one step. Question is, is this an effective method? Or you guys have more training methods while in office? Edited: since Cadence isn't the question here but of endurance and to last more on biking long distance. Sorry question was written quickly in the office. <Q> The best way to improve at riding is to ride -- but many people do have limitations on their time that make it difficult to ride as much during the week as they would like. <S> At one end of the spectrum, there is some amount of almost all fitness-building activity that is transferable to cycling fitness. <S> Cycling is mostly an aerobic sport, so vigorously climbing stairs or vigorous lunch walks can help. <S> At the other end of the spectrum, you may want to investigate purchasing (or borrowing) a magnetic or fluid trainer on which you can place your bike so you can train at home. <S> There are training plans and software you can purchase to guide you in indoor training. <A> Increasing stamina and cadence cannot be trained at the same time. <S> Why not try going to work on your bike instead? <S> It will help you keep fit <S> and it is also a logical thing to do since you do have a nice bike. <S> Plus it will also cost you less than buying ankle weights. <S> For that is already a win-win situation. <S> Or if you don't want to do that. <S> Maybe a bit of walking up and down staircases of your office will increase you anaerobic capacity. <S> Also try clipping in and put of your bike while holding onto something (ex. <S> Tree, pole, or wall) then pedal backwards and try clipping in and out. <S> If you have a hard time clipping out, try loosening the tension bolt pf your clipless pedals and find the right tension where you can clip out easily but not whilst pedalling. <A> Cadence - the faster you can pedal while maintaining a good posture and bike control, the better. <S> The indicator that you're spinning too fast is bouncing in the saddle. <S> If that happens go up a gear, or try to round-off your pedal stroke into a more circular shape. <S> If you have a good steady climb nearby, try doing it in a lower than normal gear, but turning the cranks faster. <S> Avoid bouncing in the saddle - its a waste of energy and makes your backside sore. <S> Plus it looks bad.
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Whilst about your cadence and your trouble clipping in and out, I guess all you can really do is put more time with the bike to have a better feel of what you can do... Parking or getting off the bus a few blocks away from work and then walking vigorously the rest of the way can help your overall aerobic fitness. Many people who live in cold climates who do not wish to ride outdoors or after dark in winter either train at home or in gymnasiums to good effect, and are ready to ride on the roads when spring arrives.
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Is cycling with crystal sunglasses dangerous? I'm a commuter cyclist. I have a pair of Persol sunglasses with leaded crystal lenses. Do y'all think this is dangerous in case of an accident? I have terrible thoughts of wrecking and glass shards going into my eyes, but I'd rather not carry two pairs of sunglasses. Thanks in advance for your answers. Edit to respond to below comment because I can't comment yet: I don't know their behavior when impacted... that's kind of what I'm getting at with this question. Richard <Q> I have had my glasses damaged when falling off/getting hit on my bicycle, even with a helmet. <S> Since my lenses are polycarbonate, they tend to just bounce on the road if they do come out of the frame. <S> I'd think in some of those hits that my glasses would have broken if they were made from glass (especially when my glasses have hit the curb or rocks). <S> Based on this experience, I wouldn't risk using <S> glass based sunglasses on a bicycle if I had the option. <S> You can find safety glasses which act like sunglasses for a relatively low price, which don't look bad (e.g. the Uvex SafetyPro line) <S> [but note these are likely not tested for sports, but are designed for some level of safety]. <S> The best person to ask would likely be an optometrist or eyeglass retailer (the former likely being less biased than the latter) on what they would suggest for sports. <S> This article (Cobb, Clark, and Chad Hulsopple. " <S> Eye injuries in athletes." <S> eMedRef (MU) (2010).) suggests use of polycarbonate for sports. <A> As a blind mole cyclist who has worn glasses for 30+ years, I'm more scared of dropping my glasses and smashing them on the ground. <S> Without my prescription glasses, I can walk but I certainly can't ride or drive safely. <S> However my helmet is always worn properly, so it provides a shelf of protection out from the forehead. <S> I've had two significant accidents/falls, and neither time have I had a problem with glasses. <S> They didn't fall or break, just needed a clean afterwards. <A> I personally don't think it is something to stress over. <S> More than likely you will break a lens free of the frame rather than shattering it in the frame. <S> If there is an impact centered on the lens strong enough to shatter it, more than likely your eye would be harmed either way. <S> Any non-direct impacts would probably be dispersed enough to simply twist the frame out of alignment popping the lens free. <S> Also, any direct impact to the glass lens would more than likely have equally horrendous outcome with a plastic type lens. <S> Which is why i think the chances of glasses shattering into your eyes is quite low. <S> However that's not to say it couldn't happen in a worst case scenario. <S> I'd stick with glasses though if it were me. <A> Personally, I wouldn't ride a bike with any glasses which have metallic frame (especially without flexible grips) and real glass lenses because of their weight and potentially sharp edges. <S> I've seen a friend of mine who got pretty deep cuts on his nose after falling from a bike (wearing his expensive and heavy Police sunglasses which tore skin from his nose). <S> (And after that injury he couldn't wear glasses for quite some time). <S> Since I needed both corrective lenses (myopia) and sun protection I've ordered custom tinted plastic polycarbonate lenses and semi-rimless frame with flexible grips and that costed significantly less than some brand name sunglasses. <S> I could recommend above mentioned type of glasses (with or without prescription :). <S> These glasses are quite light, flexible and can come off easily in case of falling. <S> (Didn't fall with my glasses on so far, but I've dropped them numerous times and sat on them once - luckily no big damage). <S> EDIT: I wanted to edit this question a long time ago because I've put the wrong term plastic <S> were <S> it should be polycarbonate. <S> As David Richerby mentions in his comment below, plastic is bad material for lenses due to fragmentation upon impact. <S> Here is a video which displays difference between plastic and polycarbonate lenses . <S> Polycarbonate lenses won't shutter when impacted/stressed. <S> On the other hand, I would disagree about type of frames and whether semi-rimless or rimless frames are durable enough. <S> Another video of testing a sport performance product - a semi-rimless glasses from well known manfuacturer.
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Most times glasses will break at the frame before the actual lens shatters. Contacts for commuting would be one option, switching to the glasses if preferred once at work or wherever you're commuting to. Generally when there is an accident, bike or no bike, your bodies natural tendencies to guard your face kicks in, you turn your face away from direct impact, put a hand or arm up, and flinch (closing your eyes).
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Help with the bicycle gearing I'm new to road bicycle with gears. I have 3 gears in front and 8 at the back. The principle behind Bicycle gearing is too difficult for me to understand. Please tell me what gears to use When riding on a level roadWhen riding up a flyover bridge and When riding down a flyover bridge. Now I use front gear 2 and back gear 6 to 8 when riding a level road and front Gear 2 t and back gear 4 to 3 when going up a slope or flyover bridge. When I use Front Gear 1 and Back gear 3 for to ride a steep upward slope, I find it easy to ride but the number of revolutions of the pedal increases sharply. Am I using the right gears in the above conditions? Thank you for your help. <Q> Pedalling efficiency/difficulty is related to the ratio between your front and rear gears. <S> Front : <S> The big crown is the hardest one The small crown is the easiest one <S> For rear gears this is the opposite. <S> In general, you should avoid crossing the chain, which is: Putting the small front and rear gears at the same time Putting the big front and rear gears at the same time (especially this one that might break your chain) <S> After that, the terrain you are riding pretty much determines the front gear to use: <S> For flat, you should be either on the biggest or on the middle front gear <S> For uphill, you should use the smallest front gear <S> Then, you tweak the difficulty with the rear gears. <S> For reference, the ideal number of rotations per minutes (of the cranks) is 90 in road cycling (that looks fast, but is efficient). <A> I recommend that you start with #2 on the front and use only the rear cassette to change gearing until you understand gearing more naturally. <S> So... Use the shifter on the left bar until the chain is in the #2 (middle) gear on the front. <S> From then on, use the right shifter. <S> If it's too hard to pedal, shift one click. <S> If it's harder, then shift the other way, two clicks. <S> Once you get the hang of that, then experiment with the front (left) shifter. <S> For riding around town as a beginner, you will be just fine with that setup. <A> I find it much easier to think whether I want a lower or higher gear at each moment than to try to think which specific gear do I want. <S> If pedaling is too easy/fast, shift to a higher gear. <S> As the others have said, you get a lower gear with large gears on the back (the right shifter) and small gears on the front. <S> Usually the shifts at the back are smaller than the shifts at the front, so you only shift the front when you are close to the end on the back. <S> Some shifters have indicators to show where you are. <S> The other thing I find useful is to think about low gears as intended for low speeds, rather than up hills. <S> They allow you to keep the pedaling cadence in your range. <S> One reason you may be going slowly is because you are going up hill, but there are others. <S> You could be in traffic, riding with a slower rider, starting from a stop, etc. <S> A lower gear helps with all of these. <S> When I come to a stop I automatically shift down at least two gears, four or more if I was going fast. <S> That makes the start much easier. <S> Shift back up once you get going.
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If pedaling is too hard, shift to a lower gear. For downhill, you should use the biggest front gear
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Is it OK to leave my bicycle unlubricated for a day after a hose-down? I just cleaned my bike with low pressure water but I don't have any lubricant. I left it to dry in my basement with the window left open. Is there any chance my bike will malfunction or rust before tomorrow when I buy some lubricant? <Q> No, of course not. <S> Having your bike wet and unlibricated for one day won't damage it in any way. <S> But one day is not a problem... <A> Spraying a bike with water doesn't actually remove all grease that exists on the chain and similar otherwise unprotected surfaces. <S> So letting it dry off for a day is fine. <S> Even letting it stand for weeks is fine, if it is stored in a dry place with no condensation. <S> However the situation is different if you actually do remove all lubrication from an unpainted surface (with a solvent or perhaps even abrasive, for example to prepare for a paint job or heavy maintenance). <S> Then you need to dry it off immediately or apply rust protection to prevent it flash rusting. <A> As any others have said, nope, nothing will reeeaaallllyyy happen. <S> The only thing you need to worry about is if the water sits for too long on parts such as your chain. <S> Just make sure you buy proper lubricants, and NOT WD40's spray can!!!! <S> ;) <S> Also, if you plan to do that often, it's best to just get a cheap rag and wipe the bike down to dry off most of the water first. <S> Stops the water sitting in places that it probably shouldn't be in!
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Washing it and letting it unlubricated for long period of time will cause you some issues.
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Can I use 26" electric hub wheels on a vintage road bike? I got this old road bike that I bought for $20 and fixed up a bit. I'm having to use it for a very long commute in the meantime until I can get other transportation so I was looking at a cheap electric kit solution. The mid drives are too expensive because my budget is only about $400 so I was looking at hub drives but all of them I find are 26". My bike currently has 23. The side of the tire says [700 x 23C] If I get one of these 26" hub wheel kits will it fit my bike? <Q> It's quite unlikely. <S> The axle length (hub spacing) will probably be rather different. <S> Here's a list of axle lengths. <S> The same page also discusses how you might get away with it on a steel frame with quite a lot of effort. <S> Then you get onto the wheel building, which isn't easy and had to be good for electric wheels with their greater stresses. <S> The 26" wheels wouldn't reach your brakes, so I assumed you use the hub motor and your existing rims with new spokes. <A> ANSWER No. <S> Your bike has a 700 wheel. <S> A 26" wheel is too small for your frame and so the brakes won't reach the rim. <S> I doubt you'll get a decent kit for $400, the lowest <S> I'm aware of is $500 and has a pretty small battery - http://www.electric-bike-kit.com/hill-topper.aspx <S> A hub wheel kit might just be a hub motor, with spokes, and battery/charger/controller. <S> That could work but <S> you'll have to rebuild the front wheel onto the new hub, which is fiddly but not impossible. <S> A shop would charge $100ish to do the same. <S> Electric road bike wheels tend to be uncommon because as the wheel diameter increases, the top speed goes up but the torque goes down. <S> So an electric 12" wheel can smoke rubber but tops out at 10 km/h whereas a road wheel would be slower to wind up to speed and may not reach the limiter. <A> The 700c wheels you have correspond to an inch measure of 27" to 29", depending on tire thickness. <S> The 23 on the tire refers to the tire width, in millimeters, indicating that these are skinny road tires. <S> Never mind wheel size including tire, though, the critical measure is the rim diameter. <S> 700c road bike wheels have a 622 mm diameter. <S> A bicycle frame with rim brakes, designed for 622mm rims, will not accommodate a 559 mm wheel. <S> The brakes will be incorrectly positioned, making them useless.
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Wheels under the 26" designation (common on mountain bikes) usually have a 559 mm rim diameter. The cheapest way to get those intended hub drives installed into something resembling a bicycle is to get a different twenty dollar bicycle: one which takes that size of wheel.
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Why is buying a bike as a whole cheaper than buying separate parts and building it? At least in Indonesia it is. Know why? <Q> Economics of scale. <S> The retailer not only must necessarily buy in lower volume, but also typically buys through one or more layers of middlemen, each layer adding their cut to the wholesale price. <S> Thus, the typical replacement price for a single part is often double or more than the original cost to install it at the manufacturer of the bike. <A> In addition to economies of scale, you also have to consider the difference in price sensitivity and leverage between a manufacturer and a consumer. <S> If Shimano told Trek that they'd start paying retail prices for their cranks, for example, your next Trek would have SRAM cranks. <S> You can be sure they've negotiated the lowest plausible price, because it's very worth it for them to make sure they buy a component for $34 instead of $35 when they're selling thousands of bikes. <S> Consumer-level parts purchases, however, generally fall into upgrades (you want an Ultegra shifter) and replacements (your shifter broke <S> so you need a new shifter). <S> The first group is generally price-insensitive practically by definition, since no one really needs an upgraded derailer, and you can get away with charging them more for the privilege. <S> The second group is also going to be less price-sensitive by virtue of the fact that their cost to get their bike working again with a single component is always going to be lower than the price of buying a new bike. <S> Component incompatibility makes both of these more important. <S> If you want to replace a Shimano derailer, it's generally very difficult to determine which non-Shimano components will work, so you're "locked in" to a given manufacturer. <S> From this we should predict that known-interchangeable parts (handlebars, cranks, etc) should have lower markup than their counterparts, but I'm not sure how to measure that. <A> Prices of goods are pretty much unrelated to the cost to make them, they are set at the maximum value company can get away with. <S> Parts are generally sold for repairs, not new bike construction. <S> If you already have a perfectly fine 95% of the bike, your two options are spend a lot to get a whole new bike, or a little to get a new component. <S> Even if the component costs twice what it should, you're still saving 90% compared to buying a whole new bike. <A> It is an economic law that the value (=cost) increases if you split something in smaller parts. <S> Examples: <S> tomatoes sold separately are more expensive than when sold together in a box, crate, or truck load <S> you make more money when selling apartments than when selling the entire building at once <S> This might be related to the physics principle of entropy. <S> As for the bicycle, as a whole it can be used for only one purpose / customer. <S> When sold as parts, each part may be used independently for a repair, for building a custom designed bike, etc. <S> More use options means more value. <S> The mere fact that selling parts separately involves more handling costs is not a sufficient explanation. <S> If separate parts do not have a higher value for the customer(s), it will be difficult to recover the higher handling costs.
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For instance, when a bike manufacturer buys thousands of groupsets directly from a component manufacturer, they get a significantly better per unit price than a retailer can. The separate parts (tomatoes, apartments) may be sold to different customers that have different needs, where the entire system (box, building) can only be sold to one customer that has the specific need for the entire system, which limits the number of potential customers.
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How to handle vibration (big bumps, etc.) on flat bar when touring? I've got a fully-rigid mountain bike with flat bars that I'll be using on a 150 mile bikepacking trip on a "rails to trails" trail. So it'll get a bit bumpy. My hands get a little sore from all the bumps. What I've tried I'd rather not lower my tire pressure (it's max'd out now, I'd rather not increase rolling resistance). I've looked for some sort of "flexing" bar ends , with no luck. (Plenty of bar ends , just none with any flex or "give" I'm considering getting such bar ends but maybe coating them with thick, soft foam. Hoping for a more elegant solution :) Any suggestions? <Q> There are two things that come to mind. <S> Grips, and gloves. <S> Secondly you may try different types of grips, a couple worth mentioning would be the ESI grips. <S> They're essentially made out of silicone foam and have several different thicknesses. <S> I have yet to try them for an extended period of time, but they feel nice <S> and I know a lot of people who ride them and have also heard good things. <S> They can be seen here . <S> They may be just the sort of thick soft foam type you are looking for. <S> You may also consider an ergo grip if you haven't. <S> They won't help with the vibration as much as other styles but they may help by keeping your weight in the correct areas of your hand. <S> One other thing that came to mind that you may or may not be able to use are gel inserts. <S> They're made for putting beneath road bar wrap but you may be able to use them for something if you get creative. <S> They can be seen here but again, you would have to get creative on how to adapt it to a flat bar. <S> If your budget allows, you may also try out different brands or styles of tires, some thicker puncture protection (the 5mm rubber band rather than a fabric sheet) may help to alleviate some of the vibration as well. <S> Depending on what you're riding I'm a big fan of the Freedom ThickSlicks. <S> They have about double the thickness of rubber on the tread side compared to a standard road tire. <A> There are some tricks that I've used to deal with manual discomfort in some longish, 3-4 hour, rides. <S> Resting my hands on the handlebars using somewhere other than the meaty part of my palm and the crook of my thumb. <S> I'd either tuck my pinky and pointer, or ring and middle fingers under, so that the backs of those fingers rest on the bars, or rest on the front of my digits rather than my palm and the crook of my thumb. <S> I suspect the discomfort comes from restricted blood flow from the constant pressure on the same spot. <S> Take breaks and shake out/stretch my hands, arms, shoulders. <S> Learn to balance without being on the handlebars and shake out/stretch my hands, arms, and shoulders. <S> This basically means I can keep pedaling while I stretch, saving a few minutes. <S> On my new touring bike, I went with trekking bars so I could swap out grip positions more often. <A> I'll assume that single bumps aren't the issue (hardtail MTB riders take quite big hits on flat bars), but local fatigue from riding all day on rough surfaces is. <S> I ride flat bars with touring tyres (marathon plus 28), and like to ride trails like these when I get the chance (although my trips are shorter). <S> Definitely padded gloves will help, but the padding generally suffers over the course of the day unless you go for gel gloves and like them (or neoprene <S> but I've only tried that in winter gloves). <S> I've got some ergo grips with stubby bar-ends a bit like these (chainreaction cycles - no copyright info so link only). <S> They need adjustment to be much use as you need to get your wrist on a good angle. <S> Even once this is optimised you've still got some wiggle room While there's some give in the surface <S> a major benefit is that they spread the load over more padding. <S> In the default position you can cover the brakes but it's easier on your wrists if you don't. <S> Turning your hands outwards gives a few positions differing slightly, but relying on your palm rather than gripping the bar ends. <S> How you grip makes a big difference - i.e. don't grip too tight <S> (but of course you don't want your hand sliding around either). <S> For that, the right gloves for your grips help especially if there's rain or sweat around. <S> And change hand positions when you're happy to (considering access to brakes etc.) <S> rather than when you feel the need as it's too late by then.
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Depending on whether or not you use gloves, they do make some that have gel in the palms that may help reduce vibration some if you're not already using them. I've found that the main solution is a good basic grip postion combined with the ability to grip differently for a while. I can even lay my hands on top of the bars so that my fingertips touch the front and my palms rest on the back.
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How can I tell if a tire contains slime? I recently had an inner tube on my mountain bike changed, but it was my wife that actually took the bike in to the shop for service. When it came back I noticed the stem has a blue cap rather than the typical black cap. I have seen slime inner tubes that have a green cap, so it got me to wondering if there was something different about the tire. Although I hadn't asked for slime and she didn't remember anything being said about it, it's possible they could have just thrown it in as a freebie. (This sort of thing has happened before where they quote one price over the phone and then the actual price winds up being less than what they quoted.) I have also noticed that at one point the tire went flat uncharacteristically fast (within a couple days of non-use compared to normal losses of a maximum of 1/3 pressure over a week), but after I pumped it back up it seemed to hold its pressure fairly well over a longer time period, which suggests to me that either there was a tiny leak which somehow sealed itself when the tube was re-pressurized, or slime was involved. Aside from actually taking off the tire and taking out the tube and shaking it, how can I tell if a given tire has slime in it? <Q> To find out if there is sealant inside the tube, cut it open - kinda terminal for the tube take it off the rim and deflate <S> it then squish the tube with your hands. <S> It will feel more slippery than an empty tube <S> Hang the deflated tube up for a night and the sealant will pool at the bottom. <S> You should be able to feel it through the tube <S> If the valve core is removable, remove it and stick the end of a matchstick or toothpick through, see if it comes back damp. <S> Generally weight alone won't tell you, because there's only 20-50 grammes of sealant in a tube, when a tube weighs 5 times that. <A> If you pump up the tyres and then let a little air out you might be able to smell it, at least if it's quite fresh. <S> I haven't used it for a few years but remember quite a distinctive smell compared to the standard rubber smell you get if you let air out. <A> take the wheel off, put is verticaly and spin it. <S> A tire with slime rotates "differently". <A> When I deflate the tube, often a bit of slime comes out as well at the end, and you can see the residue at the valve. <S> Most brands seem to be very bright colour (green or orange) so it is very noticeable. <S> Also when I inspect the (inflated) tyre for cuts and damages (good idea to do that every week or so), I can sometimes see green goo where I had a small puncture that was sealed off before I even noticed it. <S> So have a look and you may actually see it. <S> The other day I had a larger cut and the tyre spat out lots of green slime all over the place before it sealed the hole - good to have mudguards!
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You may feel the slime circulating in the tire.
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Heavy Rider (300lb+) - Please recommend a 26" tyre to avoid tyre pinch I ride a hybrid on 26" rims currently fitted with hybrid tires. As I am 300lbs+ the rear tire runs permanently deformed/flat and the rims ride over the rubber causing tire pinch. Can anyone recommend the tyre tube combination that I should try to obtain that will stop this happening? <Q> As a heavy rider personally, I don't have many issues with flats. <S> The key is to check tire pressure every time you get on the bike. <S> Even a day will allow a tire to soften 10 psi, and that will allow flats to occur. <S> Road hazard flats are not avoidable except by avoiding the hazard in the first place. <S> :) <S> Edit: to be clear, my answer is that it is most likely that your existing tires are not fully inflated, rather than that a different tire is needed. <A> We don't do product rec here, but some general advice: You want to find the biggest tires you can fit into the bike, and run them at high pressure. <S> The pressure written on the tire sidewall is useless (the maximum pressure depends on the rim and the tire), but in all likelihood you will be close to or exceeding it on many tires. <S> The particular model of tire won't really make a difference if you're pinch flatting them -- that is a symptom of too low pressure. <S> Also, riding on a flat tire is bad -- you can damage the rim and wheel that way. <S> If the biggest tire you can put in at the highest pressure you can run safely doesn't work out for you, consider switching to a rigid mountain bike, where you can easily get 2+ inch tires in, which will easily take 300 lbs. <S> Note that running at a high pressure leaves you vulnerable to other things like road hazards damaging the wheel. <S> You want the lowest pressure such that the rolling resistance is negligible, you avoid pinch flats, the tire absorbs some of the nature of the surface and keeps you in control of riding (i.e. no bouncing). <S> For a 300+ lb rider, this will be a pretty high pressure on many tires. <S> Also, remember tires are supposed to deflect a bit (visibly when you're on the bike), but not too much. <S> If they don't deflect, they're overinflated. <A> Do a web search for tandem tires. <S> A tandem bike carries two people, so typical loads are even bigger than you. <S> Also, definitely use a pressure gauge. <S> You may think you can tell by feel, but I ride every day and can't tell the difference between 80 and 100 psi. <A> This is close to my goto answer for tyre issues. <S> Tyres designed for touring use are meant for higher loads and inflation pressures. <S> I run marathon plus on my commuter hybrid. <S> They make a 26x2.0 version which is rated to a load of 260lb per tyre and 70psi inflation (which you could probably exceed a little). <S> It's possble that won't fit your rim (see Sheldon Brown ) or your frame/mudguards (flip the bike over and pad the tyre out to test it). <S> But you could go a step thinner. <S> As you've noted, your weight isn't split equally between the tyres - the back wheel carries more load. <A> You could try converting your tyres to a tubeless system. <S> I run much lower pressures on my tubeless mountain bike than I used to - <S> they are super resistant to pinch flats. <S> Every now and then I can feel the rear wheel pinching in a way that would previously have caused an instant flat but to date no flats (touch wood!). <S> I find (anecdotal) that the tubeless tyres seem to lose pressure a little faster than normal inner tubes. <S> Combine that with regular pressure checks and you should be better off. <A> Schwalbe Big Ben or Big Apple tires. <S> Maxxis Hookworms. <S> I'm 450lbs and ride Maxxis Hookworms. <S> Which are 26X2.5 tire. <S> I always ride at maximum PSI. <S> ButThey might not fit in your forks. <S> I had to buy new forks for the tire to fit. <S> Rated for riders 350lb. <S> Which would most likely fit your bike with no alterations.
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A normal tire on the high/maximum pressure works fine to avoid pinch flats. Another good beefy tire the Schwalbe Big Ben tires.
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Bicycle design for a crooked hip One of my hips turns out a bit more than it ‘ought’ to. It doesn't affect my walking, but on a bicycle it means that my knee on that side must transmit force at an unnatural angle. It was less of a concern when I was younger and lighter, but even so it's probably why I had considerable intermittent knee pain in my teens. Now I don't ride at all. Do bicycles exist that I could ride without pain? <Q> If possible I would suggest a sports physiotherapist that specializes in bike fitting. <S> They exist, I have used one before. <S> A physio will be best qualified for assessing how changes in position can affect your hip and knee functioning. <S> While many bike fitters have some training (and often good intuition), dealing with severe dysfunctions may be out of their area of expertise. <S> Alternatively, you may need to facilitate a relationship between your physio and bike fitter if you cannot find a single person who can wear both hats. <S> To give you hope that it is possible to tweak a standard bicycle here are some things that could help (with the right guidance): <S> During the break-in phase you are physically tearing the taut leather until the pressure is equalized across the saddle. <S> This results in custom form fitting that can accommodate different pelvic tilts and orientations. <S> Be warned however, the break-in period can be long (although water break-ins can speed this up considerably at the cost of leather longevity). <S> Shoe shims exist to help angle the foot differently to optimize knee alignment. <S> Also foot orientation on the pedal can be used to help modify knee tracking. <S> Shoe shims can also be used to accommodate for structural leg length differences. <S> You may consider flat pedals over clip-less so that you can continually modify your positioning to reduce the likelihood of repetitive stress injuries. <A> First thing I would do is consult a LBS (local bike shop) that does quality bike fittings. <S> There are a variety of things that can be done at minimal cost. <S> My local shop does work on hand cycles and adaptable cycles. <S> They have done things like install crank arms of different lengths for riders with legs of different lengths, install pedal extenders to move the pedal farther from the crank arm. <S> This sometimes requires thinking outside the box. <S> If you have difficulty finding a shop that is willing to listen and work with you, contact the local disability advocate and see if they have suggestions of some shops they may have dealt with. <A> Sounds like you'd benefit from a proper bike fit session. <S> Its possible this might be correctable with special cleats and packers to hold the cleat on a suitable angle. <S> You may need oversized shoes with custom-shaped innersoles too, depending on the degree of angle required. <S> Are your legs different length? <S> A longer+shorter crank may be required to bring it back to line. <S> Depending on budget, you may wish to explore recumbent bikes over traditional-shaped diamond frames. <S> Or to an extreme level, a handcycle would remove the leg completely from the equation.
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Similar to the other answers it would be worthwhile getting a professional to assess your current bike fit (and potential modifications that may be required). leather hammock saddles (e.g. Brooks) break into a custom form fit for each rider.
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What groupsets are compatible with my bike? Question Speaking generally, what things do you need to check about your bike (e.g. rear hub width and type, braze-on vs clamp on front derailleur attachment points, etc) in order to determine what groupsets are compatible with it? Background/ specific example I have a 2010 Specialized Tricross. It came stock with a 3x9 Shimano groupset with Tiagra shifters & front derailleur, and Deore rear derailleur. It's got about 10,000km on it now, all original parts (yes, I should have replaced the chain and casette long ago but that's a discussion I've already had elsewhere ). I am interested in upgrading the whole groupset, and am leaning towards Shimano 105, 10 or 11 spd. It feels like anything more than that is overkill for this bike. However, I'm not clear if I can just buy one of those groupsets and expect everything to play nice with my frame or are there a bunch of measurements I need to check against first. The only thing I can think of is crank length which I would match to the existing ones. I'm hoping any answers are generic enough to apply to others in the same situation, but feel free to use my Tricross situation for examples :) Thanks. <Q> There are a lot of things to check when doing a swap of your groupset. <S> Some things off the top of my head: <S> Hub/Freewheel compatibility: <S> Since you are increasing the cassette size, you may have to get a different hub and/or freewheel. <S> If the freewheel needs to be changed out, the new one may end up being a wider dimension, which will require a new hub that will keep the overall dimension of the hub/freewheel the same. <S> On mountain bikes, you may also have to contend with different axle designs as well. <S> i.e. through-axle vs. quick-release and different dimensions between chain stays. <S> Alignment of the chain-rings with the cassette: If you are changing the number of chain-rings or changing the spacing significantly, you will need to check that the spacing between the frame and rings is adjusted with shims on the bottom bracket or a new bottom bracket design entirely. <S> If you have braze-on derailleur hangers, this is critical. <S> If they are clamp derailleur hangers, there is some adjustment available. <S> Bottom bracket: <S> Most groups sets include the bottom bracket. <S> You will need to check that the frame diameter and fitment style (press-in vs. thread-in) will match the new bottom bracket <S> Shifters: <S> Since brake levers and shifters are typically integrated on a road bike, you will need to replace them to accommodate the new indexing on the rear cassette and/or front chain-rings. <S> Should be pretty standard on road bikes, but mountain bikes and hybrids require some more investigation when using integrated shifters. <S> Overall, you have a much better chance of getting a compatible upgrade if you stick with the same brand and similar technology (cable operated brakes vs. hydraulic for example) <S> Note: As OP suggested, this answer was as generic as I could make it to fit other bike types/styles. <A> Check: Front Derailleur attachment type: Braze-on or clamp <S> Bottom Bracket type: 68mm, BB30, etc <S> Freehub compatibility (does it work with 11-speed?) <S> General Notes: <S> The freehub and bottom bracket definitely come into play if you're trying to move from Shimano or SRAM to Campagnolo (or the reverse). <S> Aside from that, it's mainly an issue of if it works for 11sp (in the freehub's case) or does that company make a crankset in the correct BB spec (for the bottom bracket). <S> Specific to the <S> 2010 <S> Tricross : <S> Buy a crankset with a 68mm threaded bottom bracket (ie. <S> not BB30, BB90, etc) <S> Buy a clamp-style front derailleur (if you even decide to swap front derailleurs...) <S> If going to 11-speed, ensure your wheelset's freehub is compatible with 11-speed <A> The 2010 Tricross Sport needs the following standards met to have a compatible group set. <S> 68mm BSA (British Standard) threaded bottom bracket. <S> 34.9mm top clamp, bottom pull front derailleur <S> Any SRAM or SHIMANO Road or Cyclocross group set will work if it meets these standards. <S> If you choose an 11 speed group, you will need new wheels, since yours are maxed out with a 10 speed cassette. <S> There is no freehub upgrade kit option, as some other wheels have. <S> You can get a set of SHIMANO WH-5800 <S> 11 speed 105 wheels for about $150-200. <S> For your purposes, the 11 speed 105 will be a good choice of groupset. <S> I hope that helps. <A> I am interested in upgrading the whole groupset <S> Why? <S> If there's some mechanical issue, you need to fix it. <S> Most likely, the appropriate fix is to replace a faulty component with a new compatible component, or perhaps even simpler: an adjustment to your current parts. <S> No "groupset upgrade". <S> Based on your statement, it seems bicycle component manufacturers have converted you into what is called groupset religion . <S> Groupset religion = <S> the belief that a component belonging to a particular groupset is compatible only with other components from the very same groupset. <S> If there's no mechanical issue, just ride your current bike. <S> If you are employed, for the price of a new groupset, you can probably negotiate extra unpaid vacation during good weather and have more time to ride your current bike. <S> Don't throw away perfectly good parts just because there is a more expensive supposedly "better" part available. <S> Your 9-speed parts are not obsolete. <S> I have on my touring bike 8-speed parts currently. <S> Cassettes and chains are available even for my 8-speed system, and probably more readily available for your 9-speed system. <S> If you absolutely must upgrade something and have money to burn, buy some low rolling resistance high performance slick tires. <S> They have much more impact on the performance of your bike.
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Make sure that the new brake levers are compatible with your existing brake calipers. You should be able to get either a 10- or 11-speed Shimano 105 groupset for this bike and have it work fine, provided you:
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Pain in right leg, related to asymmetric leg position? I've been cycling two years now and have only just noticed mainly from using my new turbo trainer that when I'm pedalling my left leg is about 1" or so from the top tube whilst pedalling but my right leg is 4-6" away from top tube. Ordinarily this wouldn't concern me but recently I've been getting a lot of pain in my right leg from my hip downwards. Could this be my problem and does anyone have any thoughts on what to do, get bike fit? <Q> Before you start looking at bike setup/fit and/or different bike parts I would get your flexibility assessed. <S> With one knee deflecting nearly a 1/2 foot more than the other, this suggests either underlying flexibility issues or functional issues. <S> A bike fit can help to some degree to mitigate the issue, but a good fitter will also tell you that modifying bike fit is no substitute for fixing any underlying flexibility/functional issues. <S> Knees do not take kindly to off angle loads, in fact neither do most the joints in our legs and hips. <S> Do you sit down a lot for work? <S> This combined with cycling can really do a number of hip joint flexibility, which can have far reaching functional ramifications outside of just cycling depending on how your body compensates for any lack of flexibility. <S> Do you have a regular stretching routine? <S> If so, good. <S> If not you might need to consider this (especially hip and hamstring flexibility) as part of your regular routine. <S> Do you release muscle adhesion (and potentially muscle shortening) in your legs? <S> - Sometimes referred to as muscle knots, these can also affect range of motion and therefore realized flexibility. <S> Self-message (e.g., leg rollers) can be used to release these. <S> IMS treatment also works well. <S> Anecdote: <S> Muscle adhesion and shortening in my upper quad were affecting my range of motion through the upper portion of the pedal stroke causing knee defections inwards (my compensation behaviour) which resulted in IT band issues (outer knee and outer hip discomfort). <S> Above all I would consider getting an assessment from a physiotherapist who can identify functional mobility issues. <S> This is the best place to start, especially considering one knee is deflecting out nearly 1/2 foot more than your other. <S> When one knee tracking is this far off, it is only a matter of time before repetitive stress injuries arise. <S> Bike fit changes can compensate, but the issue will likely re-emerge especially if there are further change to flexibility and functioning. <S> Once issues are identified, you will likely be given strengthening and stretching routines to help address the issue. <S> It is worth sticking to them for long term health. <A> You need to first give yourself a rest from the bike, do some other exercises <S> instead - non impact -like walking / swimming. <S> Everyone is different. <S> One of my legs is slightly longer than the other / or I pedal in an unbalanced way <S> so your set up might require some personal customisation. <S> Have a think about your set up - seat height, position of cleats. <S> If you do use cleats, consider switching to flats for a bit or trying out a pedal with more float. <S> Check your fore-aft position of the saddle, that will affect pressure on your knees too. <S> Consider paying more attention to your gait and rhythm when you pedal. <A> Doing a bike fit would be a logical and quite expensive answer.. <S> But in all cases it most of the time resolves the problem. <S> If you want a cheaper way to do it, probably check your cleat position if you are running on any. <S> And slightly adjust your cleat to the outermost part of your right shoe. <S> If this still does not resolve the way you pedal it must be from a physiological state of your body in which your right side is a bit longer than your left. <S> If that is the case you have to do stretches to enable you to be able to ride your bike a bit higher to pull your leg a bit closer to the TT. <S> And possibly also check you seatback on the your saddle, maybe it is a bit too close to the handlebars, which causes your knees to flex and bend in an abnormal manner. <S> As I said earlier a bikefit by a proper pro is most recommended. <S> But it is of course up to you. <A> You mention that this occurs on a "new turbo trainer." <S> Are you sore after a road ride? <S> Also, when you use the trainer does it replace some of your miles or do you just add them to your usual routine. <S> Being new, I wonder if you are riding the trainer and also riding your usual road miles. <S> My guess is that it's not bike fit <S> (but it is a good one) <S> but rather a case of over training. <S> Take some time off the turbo trainer, dial your road miles bike to 50% of normal and treat every ride like a recovery ride for 1-2 weeks. <S> This is my own personal experience. <S> Your mileage may vary :)
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Often flexibility issues can cause us to modify our pedal stroke to compensate, including knee deflection, which can lead to repetitive stress injuries.
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Aero wheel on front, regular on back - why? I've seen a lot of riders in the city, usually fixe riders or courriers, riding bikes with an expensive aero wheel on front and a regular, cheap-looking, un-aerodynamic alloy wheel on back. Why would anyone do this? The main reason I can think are that: Ones budget is preventing one from getting another aero wheel. It's just a style thing There is actually some advantage to this setup This question has a lot of relevant information and seems to point to the fact that bike handling will be much worse with this kind of setup, so I would probably eliminate the possibility of it offering some kind of advantage. So is this just a style thing or what? <Q> I think this is being over-thought. <S> Aerowheels on messenger rigs have nothing to do with performance, quicker locking ability etc. <S> etc. <S> It’s just the new generation mimicking the older generation, trying to be cool. <S> When I was a messenger, many of us were pursuing racing careers. <S> The messenger gigs were essentially poor man’s training, and a steady source of <S> income- since sponsors didn’t give you enough to live even on ramen. <S> When fixies started to become cool, the next generation of messengers were mostly posers. <S> I say that with love- spend enough time on the bike, and the most blatant, fashion-conscious poser will become an actual rider, and to their credit, that’s exactly what they did, and many of them ended up very cool people in love with the bike. <S> But sometimes some lame things from the early part of that process can survive, and even end up being the norm. <S> So it was with the racer affectations such as aerowheels. <S> A lot of those guys looked up to the older messengers, they’d see them around town on their race rigs when they weren’t working, and monkey-see-monkey-do. <S> I remember once I was trying out a full-carbon (no padding) saddle from a sponsor. <S> This was bananas back in the day, because even though carbon wasn’t exactly new for frames, it was cutting-edge for this kind of application. <S> Anyway, I ran into some young’ns down at the shop, and like two weeks later, there was a full-carbon saddle craze among the hipsters who were on the job. <S> That saddle was horrible even with chamois- <S> I basically tried it and sold it. <S> I can’t imagine what it must have been like with jeans and being weighed down with fifty pounds (24 kilos) for the mail run. <S> But they rocked ‘em, god bless those crazy kids. <A> Is there a bike co-op in your city? <S> When I ran around on a ratbike like that, it was because I just got whatever people had laying around and stuck it together as cheaply as possible, usually with no thought about anything other than what was directly in front of me at the time. <S> I needed a wheel that would roll, and once I put it on, I didn't think about it again at all. <S> I bet that overall, there is a surplus of "expensive looking" but actually used and mismatched front wheels kicking around. <S> I bet they picked that wheel up for a lot cheaper than you imagine. <A> As stated in the other answer, the driving force behind these setups used to budget. <S> The rear wheel is fixed gear, which limits the budget selection to old track wheels, converted freewheel wheels and self-built. <S> Two first are high spoke count because that was all that existed back in the day, and easily available components for self-building are of the high spoke count variety. <S> In front, any road wheel will do. <S> This does of course not apply to the bike in the picture. <A> From an aerodynamic perspective the biggest aero gains come from the front wheel set-up as it is the leading edge breaking the clean air. <S> The rear wheel runs in the "dirty" air so aerodynamics gains will be smaller.
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It has also been claimed that messengers favoured Aerospokes, Tri-spokes and like because those are faster to lock: instead of carefully threading you could just throw a chain through one. Rear wheels break more often because they have more stresses. Other reason to have a setup like this is that it looks radically different and similar to what some messengers use.
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Can't find the B-tension screw in rear derailleur I am trying to register my old rear derailleur (a 15-year-old Shimano "7sis"), and I'm trying to find what every guide calls the "B-tension screw". I looked everywhere and couldn't find anything that looks like it. I only have the two screw for the upper and lower limit. Here are a couple of pictures: Can anybody point me in the right direction?Thanks <Q> As other comments have stated some older derailleurs did not come with a "B" screw. <S> This is also true of newer low end components. <A> Since there is hardly a shred of aluminum to be found in these things, you're drilling though steel, I'm afraid. <S> Use a carbide drill bit if you have one, go easy and slow and take your time. <S> Don't do what I did: namely, don't drill a new spring hole through the hanger, which is a fairly thick plate of steel; drill it on the opposite side, in the B axle housing, if you can. <S> On the hanger side, the new hole hole is retarded relative to the old one (counter-clockwise or backwards rotation around the axle) to bring about more looseness so the jockey wheel is pulled closer to the cogs. <S> On the opposite side, of course, it is backwards: the hole is advanced relative to the old one. <S> I seem to recall that the "C clamp" on the B-axle is underneath the black plastic cover through which protrude the H and L trim screws. <S> That can be gently popped off with a screwdriver, immediately revealing the axle end with the clamp on it, which can be popped off, after which the whole pivot assembly separates from the hanger, and the spring comes out. <S> Though this is a fun thing to do, you can replace the whole derailleur with its modern low equivalent: a Shimano Tourney TX-55, pretty much <S> the Shimano bottom end as far as derailleurs go. <S> Anyway, these Tourneys have the angled geometry of the pivot to track left-right in a way that tries to follow the variation in cog size (unlike your SIS derailleur which tracks horizontally), and they have that darned B-tension screw. <A> I have the same derailleur as you, and I cannot find a B screw either. <S> However, it looks to me that your axle is not properly seated in the fork slot (1/2" gap). <S> Try seating the axle all the way in to see if that makes a difference. <S> I need a B screw to back my gear pulley away about 1-2mm, as it's grinding a little when using the largest sprocket. <S> I guess it's factory set.
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I have adjusted the "B tension" on old bottom-end Shimano junker derailleur very similar to this one. Though there is no screw for the adjustment, what you can do is drill another hole for the B axle spring, to create a lower tension position that will bring the jockey wheel closer to the cog for better shifting (which I'm guessing is almost certainly the adjustment you want to make, judging by the picture, showing a very sagging jockey wheel on the highest gear.)
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What is this spring between the fork and the frame? Sometimes on a bike I see a short spring, most often covered in rubber, connecting the fork with the frame: What is the purpose of it? The only thing that comes to mind is stabilising the fork so it does not wobble to the sides so much. Is that its purpose? Why do some bikes have it? <Q> Not much use otherwise. <A> It's steering damper. <S> It prevents your handlebar from self - turning. <S> Increase comfort. <S> Steering damper <A> I'm going to guess that the bike's fork is lacking in follow <S> (ie it has straight forks, or forks without enough bend) <S> so that without the spring, the bike will not self-center. <S> It will likely feel that it wanders over the road and the rider has to actively keep it centered. <S> You probably can't ride hands-free without the spring. <S> The spring provides some pull back towards the center position. <S> If its your bike, try disconnecting the spring and going for a short ride. <S> Does it feel different in steering and front-wheel braking? <S> Personally I've never seen a bike with such a spring. <S> If they're not uncommon in your area then there may be a regional influence on them. <S> Is it mostly step-through frames that have this? <S> Is it budget/BSO bikes? <S> EDIT: <S> Thanks Moz - Trail is the word I meant. <S> Here's my idea. <S> Your bike looks like a sit-up bike rather than a racer, so its an older shape/design. <S> As per this image, older bikes had little trail, so to get them going straight <S> you had to hold the bars all the time, which is tiring. <S> Riding this hands-free would be a challenge. <S> So by comparison here's a more modern bike geometry, that will self center a lot easier. <S> Riding hands free on this would be easy. <S> Further information at http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2007/5/4/trail-fork-rake-and-a-little-bit-of-history.html
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The purpose of such a steering damper is to stop the front wheel from turning when using a (two-leg) kickstand or while pushing the bike. I think the spring reproduces some of the trail that would otherwise be absent.
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Is it worth buying a second hand classic road bike for commuting? I am looking for a substitute for my commuting bike. It is a cheap second hand general store bike. It do the job but just don't worth keep maintaining. But at same time I have to keep my bike outside for 10 hours a day in place where several bikes where already stolen (attached with cheap bike locks but still a fact). So I am afraid of leaving a decent bike there. I checked second hand bikes pages and looks like there is a lot classic second hand old road bikes for sale really cheap and from big brands. But I am not sure how much work a bike from 90s need and what I should check if I am buying one or even if it is a good idea. <Q> A (decent) bike from the '90s would not be significantly different † from (a decent) one only a few years old except for a small weight difference and possibly lacking brifters , which are de facto standard on road bikes these days. <S> This statement is of course excepting top-of-the-line superbikes made of carbon fiber and dragon's blood. <S> : This is a good sign of how well (or rather poorly) the bike was taken care of. <S> If there is no or minimal rust, it's probably been taken care of well enough. <S> Look over the frame for any signs of crashes : Big dents, cracks, fissures, etc. <S> Check <S> if the headset wobbles or not: It shouldn't, and if it does, it might need to be replaced, which would be very expensive. <S> Check <S> how worn the chain is : If it looks horrible and probably has never been changed, that's a warning sign. <S> Check the teeth on the front chainring(s) <S> : If they are starting to look like shark fins, the chainring will need to be replaced. <S> And of course, just ride the thing and see how it feels. <S> † <S> "Significantly different" means from a mechanical/engineering perspective: IMHO, some of the ugliest bikes I've ever seen were from the '90s. <A> @errantlinguist gives some excellent points, but I have a couple to add. <S> Make sure you have 700C wheels not 27" wheels . <S> I have only been able to find a single tire in my LBS to fit 27" wheels. <S> As @errantlinguist mentioned, biffers. <S> This is a huge regression. <S> To the extent, that it changes the way the entire bike feels. <S> I have switched to flat bars (at great expense) to avoid bad 80s/90s biffers. <S> In addition to the purchase price, plan on spending $20 - $200 to fix things that need tweaking. <S> Brake pads in particular, don't stand the test of time. <S> Over 10 years, even unused pads will harden and become less sticky. <S> Replace these right away. <S> Adding new bar tape is a great way to freshen up a new bike. <S> This makes switching less of a mental jump. <S> I run crankbros eggbeaters on all of my bikes. <A> It will need much work and VERY hard to find parts, been there done that after my nice bike was stolen with a crap lock. <S> Just get a UBERKILL LOCK.
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If you ride clipless, you will probably want to add the same kind of pedals you have on your main bike. Check it for stuff like rust in hard-to-see places (small bolts etc.) The thief will not want to mess with your bike and just go to the next lock he sees.
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How do I know when it's time to pump up my tires? I've been cycling for several months now. However, I have had the misfortune of having two bicycles stolen from me, so I've never had a single bicycle for more than a few months. With time passing, I've been thinking I might need to pump up my tires some. The thing is, I don't experience any degradation of my cycling experience so far, and by a cursory unexperienced glance the tires don't seem deflated (I think; I can't quite say if there's any sag compared to when I bought them). So, how do I know whether it's time to pump the tires up? Should I just do it regularly every X weeks/months? <Q> The correct tire pressure for you is typically not whats written on the tire sidewall. <S> That's an arbitrary number determined by the marketing and legal departments at the tire manufacturer, not the engineers (usually it leads to an overinflated tire, which can damage the wheel and reduce control of the bike). <S> Various manufacturers have rough guidelines for what pressures are good based on weight and tire size, but they're just guidelines -- you have to play with it on your own, since tire pressure is a personal preference (given that it is not under or over inflated -- a properly inflated tire absorbs hazards, doesn't pinch flat and has low rolling resistance, whereas an under inflated tire can pinch flat and also damage the wheel). <S> A rule of thumb is that the rear tire should be 10% higher pressure than the front due to the load difference. <S> As for how often you need to check your tire pressure, note that unless the tire is severely underinflated, you won't notice it by visual inspection or by just pushing on the tire (depending on what pressures you're running). <S> I'd suggest using a floor pump with a pressure gauge and associating proper inflation with particular pressures for a given tire. <S> You lose pressure from road hazards <S> (e.g. if you hit a bump, some air might come out) as well as leaks <S> (inner tubes and tires are porous to some extent, and valves leak a bit). <S> The rate at which you lose air depends on your components and your rides. <A> If you use your bike everyday, i would say you need to whack some air in every couple of weeks. <S> If you have left it sitting for a few weeks, it will need air. <S> Most tyres have a pressure rating on the side- find yours and use it if you can. <S> You'll be amazed at how much faster it will feel, and its also safer in terms of handling. <A> I agree with Batman's answer and would add to it that weekly pressure checking may not be enough depending on your setup and riding goals. <S> I can get away with a weekly topping off of my tubes under 28mm conti road tires that I'll run at 100psi. <S> If it's snowing/raining/ <S> whatever <S> and I decide to run them at 80psi <S> , they will be too soft after a week. <S> I cannot do the same with my tubular cross bike that I run at 40psi. <S> I need to carefully check the pressure before every ride. <S> Fat bikes are probably different too. <S> I don't own one <S> but I imagine the large volume can stay for quite awhile. <S> As far as knowing when, you should start feeling the tires after you fill them to pressure with an accurate gauge. <S> By feel I mean squeeze them, hard. <S> Really see how stiff they are. <S> You'll build an intuitive feel for what the right pressure feels like and be able to tell when they need air, quickly, by just grasping them.
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You'll have to play with the pressure to get a properly inflated tire . Ideally, you'd check before every ride, but for most people, weekly is a good enough option. You may also use different pressures depending on season or other conditions.
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What is a good daytime nutrition plan for evening racing I've joined a local road racing league, it's lots of fun. I'm pushing myself and breaking lots of PBs in the process of trying not to get dropped (which I inevitably do). As well as the craft of racing, I'm also learning about the logistical side of holding down a full time job and transporting myself + bike + kit to the various venues in time to sign on, get set up & get some time in on the rollers before briefing and race start. So, currently my timetable for the day looks like this: 7:00 - get up, get self & kids ready (beakfast is usually porridge) 8:30 - leave for work 9:00 - arrive at work * WHAT SHOULD I EAT AND AT WHAT TIMES DURING THIS PART OF THE DAY * 5:30 - leave work to drive somewhere 6:30 - or so, arrive at venue &get ready 7:00 - RACE! 8:30 - (or thereabouts) finish! (hopefully notlast!) Then pack everything up & go home drinking a protein shake thing that I make. I also have the option to go the gym during the day, which I have been doing just to do a bit of stretching and mainly use the foam rollers. So, as a vegetarian, what would be a good plan of what to eat and at what times in order to deliver myself to the start line as full of energy as possible? Races are all about 35 miles. <Q> This is one of the most common questions from people new to racing. <S> I notice user Rider_X has not responded (yet). <S> If he does then it will be well worth reading. <S> This anwser is drawn from my experience with intense weekly endurance competition (squash), people who race bikes (father, brother, a dozen regular riding buddies, including several at the elite level, and an Iron Man competitor), my own experience preparing for intense non-race events, and the articles listed below. <S> Preparing for a weekly event the next evening starts 36 hours before, assuming you've done the training you need. <S> There are four things to do the day before . <S> Get your hydration level up to normal (since most people are under-hydrated). <S> Plan or organize your day tomorrow, so that you don't spend a lot of time on your feet in front of a screen in high stress situations. <S> On the day of the race, eat your normal breakfast and lunch. <S> Unless you usually skip breakfast, in which case make breakfast normal . <S> Two or three hours before the race, eat a light, low GI meal . <S> One of the links below suggests Two hours before an evening ride, consume the equivalent of carbohydrates in grams as your body weight in pounds, for example 150 grams for a 150-pound cyclist. <S> Keep protein amounts low, with virtually no fat ... <S> If you must eat later than that, then eat less and lighter, such as a banana. <S> And keep well hydrated. <S> Sorry <S> if it sounds disappointingly simple :-) <S> For more info, see these links Cycling Tips <S> What Should I Eat Before A Race? <S> Active Pre-Race Nutrition Guide for Cyclists and Fueling Up for the Ride <S> Bicycling <S> The Best Pre-Race Foods Bike Radar The best carbs for cycling - what to eat and when <A> Taken from the Team Sky nutritionist's recommendations. <S> Although it is for breakfast the guidelines for what to look for in <S> your pre-race diet still stand. <S> Pre-race: Between waking, and the start of the race (approximately 4-5 hours) 3-4 litres of fluid, from diluted fruit juices, vegetable juices and water. <S> Breakfast: <S> On the menu each morning: Porridge: oats, quinoa, milk, water, cinnamon, topped with banana puree & yoghurt, and some berries. <S> High in complex carbohydrates for slow and steady release of energy. <S> Omelette: eggs are high in protein to help prevent muscle breakdown during the race. <S> Bread: wholemeal <S> – more complex carbohydrates Fresh fruit & vegetable juice: <S> more of this stuff, providing fluid for hydration and to bump up vitamin, mineral and antioxidant intake. <S> Link to full transcript here. https://sarahdietitian.com/2013/06/30/breakfast-fuelling-the-team-sky-way/ <A> It really depends on your actual condition and <S> how hardcore-racer biker you are. <S> As I am not an expert I will share some common sense hints. <S> For general purposes a sport diet would be fine, so pasta or such a carbon-hidrated food some hours before the race starts. <S> If the race is long, do not forget to drink something water with salt-minerals and take a banana with you. <S> In my case, just an amateur sportsman, I must take care that I eat enough fruits continuously.
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Nigel ensures his team have their pre-race meal 3-4 hours before getting in the saddle. Eat a normal healthy balanced meal, including a moderate amount of carbohydrates. As well as fluid, juices also provide a source of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, with out the bulk of whole fruit and veg. Arrange to get a good night's sleep.
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Which components affects downhill speed? So my riding buddy can never keep up with me downhill. I'm slightly heavier than him (5-10lbs). I have an older non aero bike. He has a newer aero bike. His is probably a few lbs lighter than mine. I have a better aero position than he does. But I don't just go a little faster than him, I smoke him! My suspicion is wheels. Can lower end wheels be the cause? Anything else? <Q> It's really simple, gravity/weight moves you forward, and drag/friction keeps you from going fast. <S> He can't do much about the weight difference, short of drinking more beer or getting a heavier bike. <S> But drag and friction is a different story. <S> Wind resistance is related to the square of your speed, so twice as fast means 4 times the resistance. <S> Secondary factors would probably be your tires (knobby vs smooth, soft vs hard), and even your hubs. <S> I once had an old hub serviced and started keeping up with my downhill-coasting buddies. <A> Another point to consider - confidence. <S> I had a washout on a road, which lead to a slide on a downhill ~4 months ago, which ended up off the road and down a hill. <S> I am now much more leery of turns at speed, to the point I brake down to a slow speed and coast through any leaning part of the curve, only applying pedals again when exiting the corner. <S> So, is your riding partner braking excessively for corners? <S> Finally consider some elimination. <S> Swap bikes for a trip, and see if the speed goes with the bike or stays with the rider. <A> Apart from setting up his suspension and his tyre pressure (around 27-29psi if talking about downhill bikes, tubes and tyres), he can't do much... <S> It's all about his skills. <S> He can only practice. <S> Bikes don't make riders. <S> Lack of brains does (always with the good meaning ). <S> I have found myself riding faster than guys with serious downhill bikes, on a 120mm full suspension trail bike. <S> Push your friend to go harder. <S> Ride hard, ride free
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There are many things slowing you and your buddy down, the largest factor being wind resistance. Slick tyres also contribute to the step-out-happiness of a wheel, so check and compare the tread too.
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How tight should your stem valve nut be? I just got new schrader valve tubes that have the rim fitting nut on them. Since this question has not been asked on here before, what is the proper tension that the nut should meet the rim? My understanding is that the nut prevents the tube from slipping in the rim and being damaged over time. My questions are: Do you tighten the nut before inflation, or after inflation? After inflation should the nut be finger snug or tightened with a wrench? <Q> You don't need the nut, really (and its rather abnormal on Schrader valve tube) -- a lot of people just throw it away. <S> The point of the nut is so that the tube's stem doesn't go into the rim when you're trying to inflate the tube and the stem doesn't move around when you're trying to pump the tire. <S> Note that the tube can only go significantly into the rim if the stem is very short relative to the rim or the tube has very low pressure <S> -- you won't see its effects when topping up your tires. <S> If you're using a Presta valve in a Schrader valve rim, they sell specific grommets for a few cents to use to keep the Presta valve secure, though some people install the nut on the inside of the rim to act as the grommet. <S> If you want to use the nut, inflate and lightly tighten it down after inflation with your fingers (there are some other schools of thought on how to use them, but this is probably the simplest). <S> Don't over tighten it <S> or you'll damage the tube. <A> I've had this happen a couple of times <S> and now I leave it very loose. <S> As someone commented, the nut is useful in keeping the valve stem accessible and from damaging the tube when inflating an empty tube, particularly with a CO2 inflator; which for some designs require a considerable pressure applied to the valve stem. <A> I loosely tighten before inflation- <S> just to stop the valve from disappearing whilst inflating it. <S> After inflation, it needs to be finger tight- <S> else it will rattle on the rim. <S> This is probably the number one reason why most people don't use them- the slightest looseness here <S> will be very noisy (especially to deeper section wheels).
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I think an overly tightened nut can cause a leak at the point where the metal valve stem is fixed to the rubber tube.
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Would Tri-Bars be advantageous for a 260 mile 2 day event At the end of August I am organising and completing a solo 2 day bike ride for charity that will be around 260 miles in length. The longest I have ever done is 105 miles in one sitting, about 6 and a half hours in the saddle. The first day of my event will be about 175 miles and I am estimating about 12 hours saddle time. I was wondering if using Tri-Bars would be advantageous with regards to the extra position it will give me, or would I be better sticking to the ~4 positions I currently have on my drop handles? I have never used Tri-bars before but have a pair in my garage. My bike is a Felt F-85 road bike with quite aggressive geometry. <Q> I would suggest attaching the bars and doing some test rides. <S> Is your bike, with it's aggressive geometry, stable when using them? <S> Are you comfortable using them? <S> Does this new position provide some relief, or is it just more annoying? <S> In general, I'd think the extra position would be an advantage. <S> Even with 4 positions on your standard drop bars, being able to take weight off your hands and put it on your elbows might be a welcome relief, even if it's just for a short period of time. <A> They would be yes. <S> Beyond the advantage of providing an additional position, they actually provide a bigger benefit of (properly setup) a more aero position. <S> Theoretically this could increase your average speed and provide you with less time in the saddle. <S> All things equal, I consider the extra position (when you already have ~4) to be a minimal impact. <S> All you really need on any bike is one "good" position. <S> I've done long rides (20+ hours) on my fatbike with essentially one position. <S> However, I had done the work beforehand to make sure that position was perfect. <S> TL;DR <A> Collectively, some good advice here. <S> The two biggest benefits were: extra position to to take the weight off my hands and put the body/back into a different position (you lean further forward) less wind resistance and easier pedaling, especially on the flat The geometry of the front forks on your bike is important. <S> You've got to have stability and be able to quickly change back for braking. <A> Will they be an advantage? <S> Depends. <S> They may be an aerodynamic advantage but a handling and physical fatigue and wear disadvantage. <S> You may say 'oh well I'll just rest and look straight down for a sec' and soon you might be picking weeds out of your teeth. <S> I've done the 24mile bike portion of triathlons and almost skittered off the road because my neck wasn't in shape <S> and I looked down. <S> I can't imagine being in that position for extended periods without some major physical training to strengthen those neck muscles. <S> Your crotch will also be utilized differently as the angle between legs and upper body will be more acute. <S> This can put more pressure in certain areas. <A> A friends of mine just installed aero bars, we went for a 150 km ride. <S> The aerobar advantages are mainly useful in flat terrain. <S> If you have many uphill / downhill you will be using the side handles. <S> And he reported shifting gears was quite annoying compared to brifter shifting. <S> I wouldn't do it, it is for getting faster speed not for comfort or safety. <S> Edit: I was thinking of the whole aero handlebar with shifters at the end and pushed forward saddle combination, which is expensive to have mounted. <S> If it is only the bars, well, I don't know <S> but it seems like a bit shoddy. <S> Of course try it, since it is not as big an expense.
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They are not worth the extra position, but they are worth the aero advantage and reduced ride time / increased speed. I first used tri-bars (sometimes referred to as aero-bars) for long rides back 30 years ago, on a touring bike. I think you're the only one who can determine if they'll be an advantage to you. With the aero position comes a very unnatural neck angle needed to look straight ahead.
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Frame Or Paint Crack (Cannondale Super Six Carbon) I am about to pull the trigger on a used 2012 Cannondale SuperSix bike. This would be my first bike and I'm very excited. However I am a bit concerned about some cracks. Seller claims paint is cracked and not the carbon frame but I have my doubts. I wanted to see what you guys think of this picture. <Q> Since it's a few seconds with an allen key to pop the stem off and have a look at the inside of the head tube, I suggest doing that. <S> Strongly suggest. <S> If there's any damage to the fibres, or the cracks go deeper than the gel coat, don't buy the bike. <S> If you don't know what that means, or the seller won't let you look, don't buy the bike. <S> Exposed fibres or cracks on the inside of the frame might be fixable, but not by you (or you'd know enough that you wouldn't need to ask your question here, you'd be answering it instead). <S> But they are probably not fixable. <S> The failure mode here is most likely that the head tube will break, probably when you're braking heavily. <S> That's not a good crash to have, you can easily end up with severe dental trauma and that can never be fixed. <S> Break an arm, grind half the skin off your face or hand, it hurts but those things grow back. <S> Teeth don't. <S> My partner has an expensive bridge where her front teeth used to be, and when we can spare $20,000 we will get them fixed better. <S> Not fixed properly, because no-one can currently do that for any price, but something better than the "temporary bridge" that has been there for 10 years. <S> The trouble with buying something when you don't have a close relationship with the seller is that you have no idea whether it's really a good deal <S> (if so, why doesn't the seller have any friends that will take the good deal?), or whether you're the gimp. <S> The other obvious reason for a "good deal" is stolen property. <S> Grab the serial number and search online for it, including the various stolen bike registries. <S> You might be surprised at what comes up. <A> Frankly, it's going to be hard for random strangers on the internet to determine the extent of damage to carbon fiber from a picture. <S> Be prepared before hand - find a local, reputable shop, explain the situation and ask them if they'll do the inspection & how much they'd charge. <S> Be willing to pay them $20, $30, $50 for their work. <S> For the shop it is probably just a few minutes work to disassemble and inspect. <S> If they determine it's cracked carbon, not just paint, you've saved yourself the purchase price and the potential of an expensive hospital bill . <S> If they say it looks good, you're probably OK, and the few bucks for peace of mind is probably worth it. <S> In any case, don't let the emotion of pursuing a good deal override your gut feeling about it. <S> If you don't think it's safe, pass, no matter how good the deal is. <S> After all, it's your body on the line should it fail on you. <A> I personally have no experience with carbon fibre. <S> However there are carbon repair specialists who can tell you the damage. <S> Find one of these specialists locally, and ask the seller to get it checked. <S> On no account would I buy the bike and then get it tested. <S> Right now its the seller's property, but <S> once cash has changed hands its yours, and previous owner is under no obligation to refund you should the test results be unsatisfactory.
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Especially with carbon fibre and other materials that can fail in non-obvious ways, a common reason to sell is that the bike has failed in some way that's not going to be easy for the buyer to tell before they buy it. Be upfront with the seller - tell him you're uncomfortable and would like to have a bike shop take a look at it. You should share the results with seller, even if you paid for the testing youself.
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Loading front wheel in a sharp turn? When turning sharp at high speed, does it make sense to shift the weight to reduce risk of skidding? I do not see the point of doing so. Both wheels are leaned at the same angle against the ground no matter how the weight is distributed. Whether the wheel starts to skid depends only on tire/road properties and on this angle, not on the force acting along. But a friend of mine, who is experienced more than me in cycling (and less than me in elementary physics) insists that it's better to "balance the weight" by loading the front wheel more. Is there any argument for the latter statement, assuming identical front and rear tires? <Q> He is right. <S> 1) in cycling, weight is distributed more on the rear wheel (70 rear-30front approx.). <S> So even assume that both wheel is at the same leaning angle, the front would lose traction first <S> (friction proportional to reaction force). <S> This is because the front wheel has less 'grip' limit than the rear wheel. <S> 2) When rider starts to corner/or correct the cornering, the two wheel are not exactly leaning at the same angle. <S> The front wheel both leans and steers the bike (see Figure). <S> In simplified model, you can think that the front wheel is the only component of your bicycle that 'correct' the centrifugal force for the turn. <S> The whole process means front wheel lose grip more easily (rear wheel change direction less than the front). <S> You can see the video from Criggie's answer that the front wheel lost grip, just after he tried to correct the 'leaning' and the 'cornering radius'. <S> 3) <S> front wheel also has less contact patch (due to load distribution again). <S> This can be verified when you are on normal cycling position, the rear tyre usually being 'flattened' a little more. <S> Video: <S> Partial momentum: momentum that is being shared between the Front and Rear wheel (from rider and bike itself) Rider momentum: when cornering, the bicycle generally yawns at an angle to the 'original' momentum (in order to turn). <S> That is why we need to lean, in order to balance the 'original' momentum that causes torque in rolling direction. <A> I am speaking from far more MTB experience than road, but road is similar. <S> Front wheel slide tends to be is more severe than rear, in terms of recover or non-recover outcome. <S> Novices instinctively shy away from the front, sit upright and lean back when things get tight, unloading the front wheel and inducing a front wheel slide - the worst thing to do. <S> Therefore it is better to instruct a less experienced rider to load the front wheel more. <S> This way, when the balance is less than perfect it is more likely to be the rear wheel that slides, and the natural instinct will re-balance the weight to a more even distribution, allowing the greater possibility (if slim) chance to recover. <S> Your physics ignores the human factors, you instruct a novice to load the front wheel, in a couple of million kilometers if riding, he no longer needs to. <A> I personally have suffered two front-wheel slide-outs, one on the road and one on a dry singletrack. <S> Here's the road one: Having more weight on your front wheel will temporarily increase the size of the contact patch. <S> If your bike+rider is 200 pounds, and your tyre/tire pressure is 100 PSI, then each tyre is supporting 100 pounds, and will have a contact patch area of 1 square inch (imperial measurements work quite nicely here, sorry) <S> So if you load the front wheel with another 5 pounds, the contact patch area will increase by 5%. <S> Downside, if you're going to slide out anyway, adding weight to the front at the wrong moment will make you go down harder. <S> Also, weight on the front is weight that has come off the rear. <S> A rear wheel step-out is more controllable, but still not a pleasant experience. <S> The best answer is to hit the corner at a speed you can manage, not too fast, but fast enough to carry momentum through the turn. <S> Notes: the above video is from the handlebars. <S> Its a steep lefthand bend, renowned for the "kick" on the leftmost side. <S> Exacerbated by the white painted line and that I was braking into the corner. <S> I managed to recover the front wheel slip, but by that time I was going across the road. <S> Another metre of road <S> and I would have regained control.
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In order to correct the cornering, the front wheel needs to 1) counter-steer, to balance the leaning, and then 2) change the steering appropriately.
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Should an amateur attempt truing a wheel I was in a bicycle crash recently, and noticed afterwards that the wheel was out of true (it hits the brakes once every revolution). The damage doesn't seem extreme to me though: it's not visible just by looking at the tire. I have little experience with bike maintanance or repair, and have read that truing is hard. However, I don't think I can afford professional maintanance/repair right now. So, should I attempt truing the tire myself (with the help of online resources), or am I likely to just destroy the whole thing? <Q> If your question is, "Can an amateur successfully true a wheel on their first try?", the answer is "Yes". <S> A quick search on the internet reveals plenty of videos explaining the process. <S> Some things to consider <S> Use a spoke wrench <S> Make small adjustments (1/8th of a turn) <S> You probably shouldn't attempt DIY repairs unless you can afford to replace anything you break, it's always possible you mess it up on your first try <A> Yes you could try truing yourself, but also yes you could "destroy the whole thing"! <S> Well, not destroy it, but end up with a wheel more out of true and maybe some damaged spokes. <S> Out of any repair on a bike this one is one you need to get your head round first and take your time on. <S> Don't let that put you off, just take it slowly and carefully and it should be fine. <S> Here are some things from my experience: <S> If you have an old wheel you can practice on, that's a good idea to get a feel for the process. <S> You don't need a truing stand <S> but it makes things way quicker and easier. <S> If you belong to a club or can get to a cycling community meetup, chances are you can borrow a stand or even find someone to get you started. <S> If you can't get a stand you can use your frame and / or brakes as a guide. <S> (The wheel will need to be off the floor so you can spin it). <S> Make sure you lubricate the nipple thread before trying to turn it. <S> Some people may disagree but I always start by spraying some lube down into the thread. <S> Take care not to lube the tyre or brakes... <S> If you have bladed spokes keep in mind you'll need to keep the blade in line as you adjust. <S> It's painfully easy to round the nipple, so as people have said in the comments, make absolutely sure you have the right size and decent quality wrench. <S> Do make small adjustments, but also remember to reduce the adjustments you make as you get closer to true. <S> Start <S> with quarter turns, then eighths, etc. <S> If from all of that, online videos and tutorials, you feel like you're happy to do it, the answer is <S> yes you should give it a go. <A> Undeforming a deformed alloy rim can be done, but it takes patience and skill. <S> This might be acceptable for a rear wheel, but it wouldn't be O.K. for a front wheel, assuming rim brakes. <S> If you have a nice hub, you can buy a rim, put the two rims together and just move the spokes over to the new rim - the lacing problem doesn't arise. <S> Then true the wheel on the bike between the brake pads, supporting the bike on its seat and a couple of blocks, or if you can, rent time on a truing stand. <A> Not a full answer, but using an answer block instead of a comment as the bits in the comments can get lost quickly and your question is generating a good number of comments. <S> Read Daniel R. Hicks' comments on good and correct sized spoke wrenches. <S> This is key, you will think they all fit correctly, you want the smallest one that fits or you will strip your nipples (which is not a good thing). <S> Don't get one of the adjustable spoke wrenches. <S> I keep one handy for odd wheels, but they are much harder to use and they are murder to keep exactly adjusted. <S> As others have said, go slow. <S> If the wheel starts looking worse instead of better, stop for a bit and think through what's not working right. <S> Keep in mind the entire wheel is a dynamic construct, changing something in one place can affect things all over the wheel (this is why Lachlan's "make small adjustments" is so important). <S> many will do so for free and others will do it for the price of the mechanics time. <S> If your LBS will not do it at all, find a better LBS. <S> Once you do it a bit, it gets pretty easy. <S> Happy Riding.
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After a successful treatment the rim may clear the brakes, but braking will be strange. It's easy to go too far and come out the other side! If possible, go to your local bike shop and see if the bike mechanic will help you the first time... Don't use excessive force and take your time If you do round the nipple, you can replace the spoke, but this is a fair bit more work and it's better to avoid it. : Make sure you fully understand the process before you start
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Heart rate monitors for Cycling I am an absolute novice around heart rate monitoring and its implications, just trying to validate/argument my knowledge through a discussion here. I do 30 kms a day commute and upto a 100 km a day on the weekends, Over the past one year, I haven't seen a significant dip in my weight, although I can definitely fell that I am less fat. Thinking of optimizing my cycling for better results, for which a lot of people recommend considering your heart rate. I am using Strava for a while now, and I think Wahoo HRMs are the best to use, as people mostly recommend it. There is also the Polar H7, which is a cheap and supposedly compatible HRM with Strava. I have a budget of around 100$ but can stretch to 150$ if I get good value for money. My questions are - How do you guys use heart rate monitors with cycling? What are the features that you guys consider as a must in a cycling/Running centric HRM. Any other suggestions/trivia. Update I guess I just need a basic way to monitor my heart rate while cycling. Any value addition would be nice, lets assume for now that strava integration is not necessary but would be a significant value addition. Conclusion I brought a Garmin VivoActive HR. Have been training with it for almost a month now and its serving me just fine so far. :) <Q> Interesting and personal topic. <S> I'll ignore your budget for now... <S> Ok i make use of a Garmin Edge 1000 with a HR monitor. <S> I like to monitor my HR by % of max rather than beats. <S> Makes it easier when looking at zones thinking of it in %. <S> For a indoor training on Zwift i use the Wahoo Kickr you refer to above. <S> Now here it records in beats since that <S> s what Zwift shows but <S> whats good here is it supports Bluetooth and ANT+ <S> Different tools for different applications. <S> On the bike Polar works fine easy enough to upload <S> and you can see tour zones, HR in beats or %. <S> Garment n provides a few more options like routing, HR graph even these days on the edge 1000 and 520s. <S> Coming back to your budget... <S> But you pay for those advantages. <S> I guess flexibility and compatibility are the major things to consider. <A> I've had a couple of basic heart monitors that don't integrate with anything. <S> They suited me and are cheap to try. <S> One of them came with a handlebar mount for the wristwatch display which was solid enough when I tried it briefly. <S> I bought them for running, and found that I didn't like the zone notifications and alarms (on the treadmill analogue models are prone to false spikes in HR from interference from other units). <S> A major advantage of these basic units is that they don't rely on battery-sucking Bluetooth running on a phone. <S> I also find it much easier to read a wristwatch riding than a phone screen in bright sunlight. <S> But if you've (unlike me) got round to solving the latter, that won't be an issue for you. <A> The main time I train by HR is for training off the road (on a turbo (or erg <S> - I row as well)). <S> I use it to train in certain bands eg long steady sessions at low intensity holding 150-160 etc. <S> I used to use (and still have) <S> a Suunto HR watch (t3c <S> - I think it's discontinued now) <S> that didn't do much more than give a live HR readback. <S> I find it's more useful to have something to log the HR and let you compare it to other efforts (eg, this ride <S> I was 15s faster up <S> climb X for the same HR I must be less tired etc) <S> I use an edge 810 and the tracking/gps is much better than on a phone (the edge 25 uses GLONASS as well as GPS <S> so should be even better). <S> For $150 you should be able to pick up something like the Garmin edge 20 or 25 which will let you record your trips with HR/cadence/speed etc in one place. <S> It integrates nicely with Strava and lets you compare efforts easily. <S> You also get the benefit of it all being in front of you while you're riding. <S> A benefit of ANT+ is that you aren't tied to a brand. <S> If you want to get a new HR strap or want add a cadence sensor. <S> I would also recommend using VeloViewer. <S> It's based on your data from Strava and lets you do much greater analysis (or just makes prettier graphs). <A> Your phone is http://www.gsmarena.com/huawei_honor_7-7269.php <S> which makes no mention of ant+ support. <S> However that site also doesn't state my phone <S> has ant+ <S> http://www.gsmarena.com/samsung_galaxy_s5_active-6356.php <S> If you can find your phone's chipset on http://forum.xda-developers.com/hardware-hacking/hardware/ref-devices-ant-hardware-t2879990 <S> it will confirm whether the hardware can support <S> ANT+ <S> https://www.thisisant.com/directory/filter/~/115|118/~/~/ shows the strava app is ANT+ aware on android. <S> For completeness, iphones don't have ANT, they only might have Bluetooth Low Energy (BLE) but they can use a WAHOO RFLCKT to mirror/bridge ANT+ signals to BLE. <S> Windows phones don't even have a strava app. <S> As for HRMs, I bought one of these http://www.dx.com/p/ant-wireless-heart-rate-monitor-strap-for-smart-phones-computer-black-256722 for $24 USD. <S> Its worked fine for ~4 months now.
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If your using other apps like Garmin connect, Polar etc a dedicated monitor and strap has more advantages. On the road I'll keep an eye on HR and use it as confirmation of perceived effort. The Wahoo kickr is a simple cheap option to use with your phone if you only using Strava. I would definitely recommend going the ANT+ dedicated unit route rather than using your phone.
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Potential risks of sitting upright on the saddle during a daily commute I ride my bike to work Monday through Friday, about forty minutes both ways. The elevation changes a bit but not too much. I'm not a huge fan of holding the handlebars, and I often ride with no hands for as much of the distance as I can. I know this throws off my balance a bit (and a large bump is more likely to throw me off my bike) but beyond that should I be worried about how this affects my muscles? E.g. could I be straining them/stretching them in the wrong way? In general is it bad to consistently ride using that posture? <Q> Of course, you will have less control over your bike if you don't hold the handle bars, especially if something unexpected happens (like a truck coming out of nowhere at full speed for example). <S> Regarding sitting upright, you are very lucky to be able to keep your back straight like that, most people have a bad posture, and are not comfortable sitting upright on bar stools for example (or any chair without something to hold your back). <S> Being upright like that uses your lower back muscles and your core more generally, which is a very good thing. <S> Also you will relieve potential stress in your forearms, because they are not resting on the bar (with your weight). <A> I put my road bike on a trainer, raised up my desk at work, and decided I could casually ride all day long while typing away at my desk. <S> At first, it was a lot of fun and I was effortlessly logging a good 20 miles a day. <S> However, after the first couple days my tail bone started to hurt a lot. <S> I got a softer seat, and it continued to hurt. <S> I couldn't comfortably sit on anything for a month! <S> Let my mistake be a lesson! <A> I do that a lot and haven't had any issues. <S> What I have noticed is that sitting back at times gives your legs a rest from other postures and helps you flush the pain out while you can still maintain a decentish forward momentum. <S> You can also twist, turn and stretch your arms, shoulders and back. <S> But you're not racing anyone in that posture so it doesn't matter.
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I'm no doctor, but I'm pretty sure I bruised my tail bone due to extended up-right sitting on a hard road bike seat. The downside (apart from balance) is that you can't get the same amount of power into the pedals since you are less stable and don't have anything to push/pull against with the rest of your body.
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can I use my road bike off road? I have several bikes. I noticed that 90% of times I go on road so I got myself a road bike. But, can I use it for off road? Nothing extreme maybe some dirt roads or with small stones or poorly maintained roads. There is a really small amount of rains here so mud it is not a danger. The idea is that I can lend it to a friend to make some soft off road routes or use it myself and lend a more off road bike. <Q> Typically the gearing is a little lower than a stock road bike, and these days a lot of them have disk brakes. <S> Most will take fairly wide tyres, 38mm is not out of the question. <S> For riding a stock road bike off road, I'd look mostly at tyres. <S> If you can find some that will clear your frame that have a bit of tread that will help a lot. <S> Puncture resistance may also be worth while, you're more likely to find thorns off road. <S> I would also experiment with lower tyre pressures, as that may improve traction. <S> Other than that <S> , I'd just ride and see what happens. <A> In poor country, there is not "nice pave road" and "special cross country bicycle", cyclist just use their bicycle as daily utility tools and no complain. <S> As long as you are not playing extreme (e.g. play the downhill) . <S> If you are worry about comfort, punctured, then change to wider tyre, use puncture resistant tyre, good double wall wheel rims. <S> All the extra cost actually will pay themselves in long term. <S> Ride carefully will avoid damaging your rims. <A> Put some reasonably durable 25c or 28c tyres on and you should be fine. <S> Also think of gearing ... trails can get steeper than road and traction can degrade quite a bit, requiring shorter gear ratios. <A> Certainly can ! <S> I did a camping tour with a road bike - with a bike rack - and tent/sleeping bag, etc - we did gravel roads - just standard road bike tyres. <S> Next time, I might get more durable, or grippy tyres. <S> We did 4 days of 80km (330km in total) <A> Road bikes can definitely handle offroad conditions. <S> A good example is the Paris-Roubaix race. <S> In this race there are a lot of roads built out of old cobble stones. <S> Often riders will ride of the side of the cobbled sections which is basically hard packed dirt (or mud, depending on the weather). <S> There are also sections in the mountains on the Giro D'Italia that use gravel roads. <S> And if you're still worried about what your road bike can do, check out this video . <A> The thing that makes road bikes unsuitable off good pavement is their narrow, high pressure tires. <S> The gearing and seating position may not be ideal, but they are not killers. <S> For a short stretch, you just need to get through it. <S> Hard packed dirt is no problem unless there are ruts along the direction of travel that cause control problems. <S> A thin layer of sand or gravel over a hard surface is also not a problem as long as you corner gently. <S> These can quickly ruin your day. <S> Long stretches of the other surfaces may make you wish you had a different bike, but tell your friend that beggars can't be choosers and pick a route that doesn't have too much of them.
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The problem comes if you have a soft surface that cannot support your tire pressure or sharp rocks that puncture a thin road tire. There's a whole sport - cyclocross - that involves riding road bikes off road.
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What is the best pedalling technique to heal and prevent patellar tendonitis? I have a very mild case of patellar tendonitis. But, it is a chronic and recurring problem I have been dealing with since 2011. I get it mainly from playing tennis. But, I notice that when biking I can also agravate it a little. I bike on a touring bike with fixies type pedals that fit pretty well. What should I watch for in my pedalling technique to heal my patellar tendonitis? <Q> I ended up researching this topic with other sources. <S> And, the feedback I got from a very avid biker (frequently bikes 80 miles a day on his own on the weekend) and a tennis colleague of mine that suffers from the same condition is described below. <S> The pedaling technique is key. <S> The majority of bikers push down on their pedals with their toes first, so the feet when coming down are at a 45 degree angle (the heel being up and the toes down). <S> That actually stresses out the patellar tendon. <S> When you do that correctly, your foot should remain as parallel to the ground throughout the entire pedaling circle. <S> A friend of mine described this technique as think of dragging your foot flush on the floor as if you want to remove some clay under your sole that is stuck throughout the entire sole of your shoe including the heel. <S> I have started this technique, and it seems to work pretty well. <S> I also noticed that indeed the majority of bikers do not bike that way. <S> Well they are young and don't have patellar tendonitis issues <S> , so they are fine (until they are not). <A> Make sure your seat height is correct. <S> Your knee should be straight when your foot and pedal is at the lowest point. <S> You may want to consider changing pedal clips for a more comfortable fit. <S> I play tennis daily and bike as well. <S> Good luck and keep riding! <A> What's your cadence? <S> If you're running a large gear at a lower cadence, switch gears so that you're able to (consistently) spin about 90 rpm. <S> This will reduce the stress on your knees. <S> As for the legs being straight at the bottom of the stroke, you don't want it completely straight -- <S> maybe 175° vs. 180°.
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What you want to do is pedal by pushing down with your heel first.
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What are the benefits of drop bars? I come from a mountain biking background but I've also done a lot of cycle touring but I chose to go with flat bars and bar-ends vs drop bars. I've also seen bikes that are designed for 'bike packing' such as the Salsa Fargo sporting drop bars. Recently I've done more road biking but I still don't fully understand the reasons behind drop bars. Can you tell me what the benefits area? <Q> The main advantage is more hand positions. <S> With a regular flat bar, you hold your hands at the grips (with possibly about one more hand position available if you have bar ends). <S> With drop bars, you can hold at: <S> The brake hoods (on top of the brake levers) <S> The drops (the bottom part of the bar) <S> The tops (on the left and right of the stem) <S> That place between the hoods and the tops Possibly others (or less of these, depending on who you ask). <S> For long rides, this makes a difference due to hand fatigue. <S> For example, when you're in the drops, you're in a more aerodynamic shape versus sitting straight up with your hands on the tops. <S> Drop bars aren't for everyone and do require proper setup (as do all bikes) and acknowledgement of the geometry of the bike. <S> In particular, racers will likely set their bike up differently than tourers will (e.g. higher bars than racers), where its primarily a comfort thing. <S> If you like doing long rides with flat bars and bar ends, more power to you. <A> Additional point in favour of drop bars on the road - they take up less width and will fit through tight spaces in traffic better. <S> I put some new grips on my MTB, which added 10mm to the end of the bars. <S> Next ride <S> I clipped a car wing mirror. <S> Drop bars are about as wide as your knees/hips/shoulders while riding, so a narrower profile. <A> I ride a flat bar with straight handlebar and a road bike with drop bar. <S> I experience far less pain and numbness in my wrists with the drop bar where my hand position is similar to a handshake.
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But for most people, the same bike won't work well with drop bars and flat bars because changing the bar changes the riding geometry. A secondary advantage is you can also change how aerodynamic you are and your body geometry with respect to the bike by shifting around and using different hand positions relatively easily.
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Choosing the right bike size I'm looking to get the Trek Domane 4.3 and debating between a size 54 and a 56. One shop I've been to told me I'm a 56 and another said 54. According to Trek's sizing chart I'm 56. I am 5 9" with an inseam of 30.5". Which is the right size for me? Btw, I prefer not to replace any parts or make modifications to the out of the box setup. It should also be noted that I prefer comfort over performance. <Q> There are a ton of info online! <S> for example: http://www.ebicycles.com/bicycle-tools/frame-sizer Performance usually mean right size and also same comes for comfort. <S> I don't know why you think that this things are in opposite ways. <S> Also what use you will give to it ? <S> Smaller frames are better for more aggressive driving like in a urban enviroment. <S> I know some cases when in a store seller advised wrongly in order to remove some last year(o more) stok. <S> So be careful with this. <S> It may happen in some small stores where the seller is also the owner. <A> Go through this process. <S> It will ask you to measure several body dimensions and will help you pick the right size frame by how long it is rather than where the toptube meets seattube, which makes a lot more sense when you think about it. <S> It will therefore work the same with a road vs a crossbike (which tends to have lower top tubes) and any compact or other frame designs. <S> If you are between two frame sizes I recommend choosing the larger one. <S> It is easy to use a shorter stem than what it comes with and should your goals / flexibility change in the future <S> you may appreciate being able to go to a longer stem (if you ever want to lower your handlebars you may also want them further away). <A> What I have done in the past, is to measure your current bike (top tube, down tube and stem) then locate the size which matches those measurements.
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You can look up the geometry chart for the model you are interested in to find the Virtual / Effective Top Tube Length and pick the one closest to your optimum. If you feel like 56 is too big and 54 too small go for the smaller.
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Have I damaged my tyres? I noticed after mounting some new tyres that part of the side wall, just above the bead, seems to have been damaged while I was fitting them (see photos below). These tyres were especially difficult to mount, even with the bead seated in the rim's bead well all the way around. So tight, in fact, that the only way to get the bead out of the well and seated under the bead hook was to pump it up to a much higher pressure than I would ride it with and wait for it to "ping" into place. I think it's this process that ended up causing the damage you can see in the photos. The tyres in question are these (folding version). Have I compromised my tyres, or should I not worry about it? <Q> Every continental tire I have owned seem to have some of those threads, even ones that mounted relatively easily. <S> I just cut them off and have never had an issue with them. <S> Continental tires are also well known for their tight beads. <S> The high-pressure technique is a common technique to get a bead to seat. <S> that can jam in the fenders causing a crash. <A> It turns out the tyre wasn't fine; here it is 2000km later. <S> The tyre has split in two places on one side, and the bond between the bead and the sidewall looks pretty compromised all the way around. <S> Thankfully it didn't blow out while I was on the bike! <A> The hardest to fit tyres I've ever dealt with were continental comfort contact (and I run marathon plus which are reputed to be difficult). <S> Like yours they needed serious overpressure to seat, even after wetting the rim. <S> After several years fitted they're still going strong. <S> I had to change a tube in one recently and it was much easier but still hard to seat. <S> I seem to recall some strings but removed them before mounting the tyre.
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Those strings are quite common with continental tires and seem to be a part of their manufacturing process. To speed it up you can also put the tire in a vice and pull on the top of the wheel to try and force the bead to seat. As an aside, many recommend against running fenders with knobby tires, as the knobs can pick up debris (e.g., small sticks)
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Will hydraulic brakes work with vertical underseat recumbent handlebars? I have this type of recumbent. I want to upgrade to hydraulic brakes, but every bike shop warns me about the issues that will come from attaching the brake levers in a vertical position. They say that it will catch air very quickly. Do I have any options? Maybe there is special brakes for this type of situation? <Q> I can't speak for every hydraulic brake ever, but when I've done this I didn't worry about it, I just bought sealed brakes and put them on. <S> I'm currently running cheap Shimano ones on my touring bike and have not had any issues, and in the past I used Hayes with similar lack of problems. <A> The brake will only suck in air if air is already present in the reservoir. <S> With some brakes this may not be a problem. <S> No, I haven't tried, and yes it would be a lot easier if you could find a brake system that by design never has air inside the reservoir. <A> There are several models of recumbents that use under-seat steering and hydraulic brakes. <S> My 2005-era Anthrotech trike used them exclusively, and I never had trouble with them. <S> As long as they are installed and set up correctly you should not be worried. <S> Remind the bike shop they can install the system with the handles horizontal first if they persist in being really nervous about it, <S> then they can mount them as you need. <S> :)
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With brakes where this is a problem, you could take the rather extreme step of closing the reservoir while immersed in brake fluid (after carefully turning and vibrating to release air bubbles). This bike I switched from cable to hydraulic after cooking the brakes on a downhill, and I haven't had any problems in about 5000km of riding since.
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Training to become a good cyclist I am a road cyclist but not a professional one.I am 21.Do you know a long term training,starting from zero, that can help me to become a good cyclist?I am 1,75 cm tall ,weigh 65 kg.My average bpm is 60 and maximum is 208,spo2 is 97%.I can train indoor 4 times per week.My goal is : 80km (gradient 0,2%) at 35km/h and 10km(gradient 6%) at 20km/H.Thanks <Q> Starting from 0, assuming you are consistent, you can hope to be a a fast guy in about 3 years and among the elite (in your age/weight class) in 6. <S> There are many opinions about the actual training content and how it should vary over the course of a year. <S> And mostly, the just that - opinions. <S> There is very little good scientific research on long term training plans, because controlled double-blind studies would take a really long time, have difficulty recruiting participants, and it would be difficult to gain funding because there is no industry interest, not to mention it would be really difficult to design a blind study involving hard physical training. <S> Still, unscientific as it is, you should consider picking up a good book on the subject, as they tent to model the way professional riders train per tradition, and which seems to be working for them. <S> Two of the more popular ones are "The Cyclists Training Bible" and "Training and Racing with a Power Meter". <S> There are also good free resources online. <S> In short, the books will tell you to do the kind of riding you want to be good/fast at, with some variations. <S> Simply riding your bike a lot will probably do wonders for you as well. <S> If you want more specific advice, post more details about your goals. <S> Do you want to win the sprints, be fastest up the hills, be the breakaway hero or win a 24h race? <A> I'm taking a different view to @Morten 's answer. <S> A good cyclist is one who survives every trip, by successfully avoiding all the hazards while not being a hazard to other fellow road-users. <S> That means: Obeying red lights and stop signs <S> (don't piss off everyone else waiting at the control) <S> Looking out for road users who haven't seen you (including pedestrians) Being as visible as possible on your bike (means lights, no dark clothes, reflective stuff) <S> Staying on your side of the road, and in your lane. <S> Going slow passed busses - some locations mandate that you either must stop, or must slow to speeds like 20 km/h when passing a bus outside a school. <S> Basically a good cyclist is a good road user. <S> Learn to do all this and then crank on the power for speed. <S> Otherwise you could be too busy focusing on power and aero, to be a good road user. <A> I like Morten's answer. <S> It covers a lot of ground. <S> A power meter these days - is the de facto tool to train with. <S> They have dropped a lot in price over recent years - but still expensive - if you are just starting out. <S> a power meter is an investment. <S> Incidentally, I don't own or train with a power meter. <S> The most important factor you need to decide is how much time you can dedicate to training on a consistent basis - week to week. <S> Once you know this - you can formulate a training plan to suit. <S> If you are short of time - say 4 -5 hours a week - then your plan will probably bias towards intervals. <S> If you have 8 - 9 hours a week - then your plan can shift towards longer rides to build an endurance base with less bias on intervals. <S> But whatever, consistency would be the key. <S> Also set realistic goals. <S> 80km on a 0.2% gradient at 35km/h - does this look realistic? <S> It's a theoretical 4.2W/kg over 2hrs!! <S> http://bikecalculator.com/
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Assuming you mean a fast cyclist, your best long-term plan is to find ways to enjoy or otherwise remain motivated to train year-round so that you can be consistent for the next many years. And like any tool has to be used in the correct way (training).You can still get away with using a heart rate monitor - and they are useful for longer efforts but for shorter efforts and overall data quality / accuracy -
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Carry road bike inside an SUV I'm in the process of getting a road bike. I already have a SUV with interior space large enough to carry a road bike. Worst case, I might have to remove the front tire and place it horizontally. Are there any problems in carrying a bike inside of an SUV by placing the bike horizontally? <Q> There is no real problems other than things getting scratched or broken being shuffled around, derailleurs easily get caught on seat belts etc. <S> There is however a very easy and affordable option to avoid this. <S> (Assuming you have QR skewers) Install a 2x4 or similar piece of wood. <S> Then mount QR truck mounts to said 2x4. <S> If you are going to be using your SUV to carry your bike very often this is the way to go if you don't want to spend the money on a roof or trunk rack. <S> Generally, and depending on SUV make and model you can easily fit more than one bike using this method. <A> Not really, just be careful. <S> For example, you don't want the derailleur to hit the door or something when getting it in or out. <S> You also don't really want to stack things on top of the bike, especially if you have no wheel in (e.g. at the fork). <S> That being said, getting a bike in and out of a vehicle can be inconvenient, plus, it can get your car dirty. <S> Racks are nice for this, but its much easier to steal a bike off a rack than it is to steal one from inside a car. <A> If your bike has disk brakes and you remove the wheels, insert a spacer between the brake pads for transportation. <S> Without a spacer, accidentally pulling the brake lever when the wheels are off will push the brake pads to together and the brake disc won't fit. <S> It can be cumbersome to separate the brake pads. <S> There are special spacers available, but any flat object with the same thickness as the brake disc would work too (e.g. a coin). <S> However, this should not be an issue for a properly serviced bike. <A> I used to transport my bikes inside a car a bit smaller than a SUV. <S> Although they where mountain bikes rather than road bikes. <S> I used to tip down the rear seats and lay the bike horizontally. <S> The car was just big enough to allow a full suspension 26" bike. <S> When putting two bikes I removed the front wheel and separated the bikes with a car tire inner tube, inflated just enough. <S> That prevented one bike damaging the other. <S> Two bikes was the usual limit, but even three where fitted in case of emergencies. <S> The benefits of taking the bike inside the car are: 1) the bikes won't get the road dirt and grime (the one that tires of other cars launch at yours), which can be harder to clean off. <S> 2) <S> It's not obvious that you are carrying bikes, so bike thieves are less attracted to your car 3) <S> The car keeps its external size so parking in tight spots, entering the garage or using a drive thru is less of a hassle than with a external rack (rear or roof). <S> Disadvantages are: 1) <S> High possibility of damaging or staining the inside of your car (scratches and oil in the seats, carpeting, seat belts, etc) 2) <S> It is kind of awkward to get the bike in and out, <S> specially without help, you may eventually get tired of it. <S> A single bike is less likely to get damaged inside your car (the bike is more likely to damage the car). <S> Two or more bikes are really prone to damage one another. <S> co carry the bike inside the car. <S> Just be careful and be prepared to perform a quick clean of the bike after the ride before taking it inside the car again. <S> (Thinking of mud and dirt in the frame collected during the ride) <S> But for repeated transportation of the bike, it is really worthy getting a proper rack, either external or internal.
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Additionally, if your brakes are not properly bled and have air in the brake fluid reservoir, transporting your bike horizontally might get the air into the brake and reduce the brake's performance. Bottom line is: for a few times, if you plan to only do it once in a while or just meanwhile you get a proper rack (either bought or DIY) and for a single bike it is perfectly fine
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What to pack for small 500km touring? I recently bought BTWIN Triban 520 (drop handlebars) for exploring into road biking and decided the best way to do it would be probably touring. I'm not looking to race but probably for endurance and planned this small tour of about 500km biking through Netherlands & Germany. The route map can be viewed here https://goo.gl/fKlehW The bike without anything extra weighs about 10kg. It's size L (58cm). I don't plan to take much stuff, but what are the essential things which I shouldn't miss? I bought this https://www.decathlon.de/gepacktrager-pletscher-wersa-fur-26-28-zoll-id_8336145.html for bag. Anyone had any experiences with such holder? How does this affect handling of bike. <Q> You need to be very careful with the weight limit on that rack, it will flop about if overloaded a little, or break if overloaded too much. <S> But you're riding short distances in heavily populated areas, so presumably you're staying in buildings and buying prepared food, so you don't need to carry much. <S> If you can afford to spend a little extra money on buses etc, there's very little risk so the best bet is to try it and see. <S> As Renesis pointed out in comments, while google maps is pretty good at navigation, you do need to select the "bicycle" option rather than the default car one. <S> Otherwise you'll be stuck at the first autobahn you come to when you get to the "no bicycles past this point <S> " sign :) <S> But your route is likely to be somewhat longer than 500km, but significantly more scenic. <S> I would take a windbreaker, long pants and a shirt, underwear, toiletries, phone charger, phone and wallet. <S> That's about it. <S> Wash your cycling knicks every night and dry them on the end of your bed if there's no other facilities. <S> If you have light cotton pants and shirt they crumple up to very little space. <S> The main thing with your first tour is that you get out and ride. <S> If something goes wrong jump on a bus and either continue your tour as a bus-traveller, or go home. <S> It's no big deal, the idea is to learn what works. <S> The big planning exercise is probably going to be booking accommodation :) <S> You have everything from the Paris-Best-Paris style randonneur "carry nothing" tourists to four wheel "bicycle campervan"travellers in the low countries of Europe, so there's a lot of different options you can choose. <S> But the easy one is definitely how you're starting - get a bike, pack a change of clothes, and ride. <A> That carrier is lighweight and puts all the load on your seatpost. <S> I'd be surprised if its rated for 10 kilos, probably as low as 5 kilos. <S> You want to carry stuff on the bike, not on your back <S> so that means a decent carrier/rack that has strong struts down to the rear axle mounts. <S> That plus panniers may be all you need, but it may make the bike rear-heavy. <S> If you can go with someone else, it makes the risk that much less all over. <S> You need carry half the shared gear, and you can share time on the front. <A> Use your smartphone for navigation (using e.g. osmand). <S> A spare tube, pump and the most basic tools never hurt either. <S> Use a saddle bag or frame bags to carry a short and shirt <S> so you have something to wear when you’re not sitting in the saddle.
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For 5 days with couch surfing and a good weather forecast in the summer you don’t need more than arm and leg warmers. I suggest reading random cycle touring sites and travelogues to get an idea of what people do and how they travel, in the area where you're likely to be riding. Do carry standard bike tools and spare tubes too.
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What is causing this chain clicking noise? The click only happens when the chain is moving in certain locations. If the gear is low it happens every rotation and if the gear is high it happens 2 or 3 times per rotation of the pedal. I am trying to figure out if the chain is stretched or somthing is wrong with the cassette. To explain this more I have uploaded a demostration video of how it sounds. This happens on multiple gears at different locations on the chain. It happens more than once every turn of the pedal depending on the gear. Update: measured chain for stretching and looks like no issues. UPDATE: Fixed by adjusting the cable tension using rear barrel adjuster about half a turn. <Q> A couple of things I see: I think your derailleur is a bit out of adjustment and is "leaning" towards the lower gears. <S> It's grabbing on the ramps of the lower gear as it goes by. <S> Your B screw adjustment is a bit too far away from the cassette. <S> I would try to get it within a link or link and half. <S> It looks from the video that you are about 2-3 links away. <S> See section 4 of this link: <S> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustment.html <S> Lastly, is it possible that 9 speed chain (or less) is on that 10 speed cassette? <A> That's weird! <S> It sounds like slack being taken up on the cranks, but the image doesn't match that. <S> Try separating the components - take the wheel out, can you feel any notchiness on spinning the cassette? <S> Diagnostic Ideas: <S> Then clean it and measure it for wear. <S> While chain is off, inspect the jockey wheels for wear, and feel around for any notchiness. <S> Now with your chain clean but not lubed, assemble it lightly so <S> the chain is not on the chainrings... now pull the chain by hand and see if you can replicate the noise. <S> Do the same again with chain on cassette only and leaving out the jockey wheels. <S> Try and halve the problem and then see which side the symptom goes to. <S> BTW remember to relube chain once you reassemble. <A> Whenever I have had a problem with a regular clicking noise coming from the chain - it has been either a stiff link (which goes as the chain loosens up through use) or a split pin on the chain ie. <S> the pin has detached from one side of the chain. <S> It can be hard to spot but worth examining for.
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Take the chain off, and feel it for stiff or grotty link. If the chain is too wide, it would have the same symptoms (grabbing the ramps)
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Other than chain length, what are the limitations to the number of gear teeth? I need to replace my chainwheel and cassette, and it made me think. I know that the chain has to be a specific length relative to the number of teeth on the gears. I was thinking about changing the cassette for one which a bigger 1st gear. Suppose I could get one with whatever number of teeth I wanted. The bigger the better, right? If better means less effort to climb hills. But I have never seen a really big gear, like almost the circumference of the wheel. I assume that's for a practical reason, not just because it would be very lazy if it worked and look ridonkulous :) <Q> In the diagram below (from Park Tool ) one can notice that if the innermost (lowest) cog grows much larger it will interfere with the top pulley on the rear derailleur. <S> This is the primary limiting factor for the size of cogs. <S> (source: parktool.com ) <S> For chainwheels, I suspect that the ground would be the physical limit (for a typical diamond frame, anyway). <S> Of course you'd better eat a good breakfast and have a friend with a shed on his car if you plan to turn a ring that big. <A> One limitation is your rear derailleur cage length. <S> Typical are short (road), medium and long (mtb). <S> If the cage isn't long enough it can't handle a cassette with wide range. <S> For example a short cage might be able to handle 12-26 cassette, but for 11-30 you'll need a long one. <S> It also depends on range of chainring. <S> Chain also needs to be right length like you already mentioned. <S> In small sprocets the diameter of freewheel body puts the limit to 11 teeth. <S> Some special hubs might have even smaller ones. <A> There are a number of factors to consider. <S> For another question, I looked up the specs. <S> on a specific Shimano derailleur. <S> It listed min and max values for both the largest and smallest rear cog as well as a total range. <S> Of course, you may be able to make it work outside that range. <S> The bolt circle on your crank will limit he range of gears you can use. <S> On a full size crank with 130 mm BCD, it is hard to go below 39 teeth. <S> Compacts with a 110 mm BCD usually come with 50/34. <S> There are subcompacts that run 46/30. <S> Some front derailleurs are mounted using a clamp on the downtube, but mine mounts to holes on the downtube. <S> Although there are adjustment slots, I do not know if it would go low enough for a subcompact.
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Wether it is the range in chainrings, cassette or both you need a right size rear derailleur. If you need more chain, your local shop probably has bits left over from other bikes.
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Indoor cyclist keeps popping out of clips I bought a pair of Shimano indoor cycling shoes with two hole cleats to wear during my spin classes. Unfortunately, during my classes, I snap out of the clips. I know part of it must be my form but I think another part is that the clip isn't held in like mountain bike shoes are. Is there a way to buy an attachment to make mine more sturdy. I know there must be something, but I can't seem to find it! <Q> On Shimano SPD pedals, you can sometimes adjust the tension for how tightly they clip in (likely via a hex bolt). <S> If the tension is too low, your feet will be too easy to pop out, whereas if its too high, you won't easily be able to get out ( <S> which isn't a problem on an indoor cycling setup). <S> Try playing with this setting to see if you stay clipped in (turning the bolt clockwise should increase the tension). <S> Also, there are two types of cleats available -- single release (Shimano SH-51) which only release by turning your heel out and multi-release (Shimano SH-56) which release by turning in any direction. <S> It shouldn't matter which one you use for indoor cycling (SH-56 is probably preferable for most people) but SH-51 might be an option if you're having trouble with SH-56. <S> You may want to use those. <S> And work on your form. <A> @Batman has already explained how to adjust SPD release tension (+1 to him). <S> Try to use you ankles more, so that you are trying to drive the pedals through all 360°. <S> Keeping your knees straight can help with this, and focussing on a distant point can help too. <S> As with any technique training <S> (whether it's cycling, swimming, squash, tennis, skiing, whatever) you'll need to focus just on technique for a while, and ignore speed and power. <S> When you think you've improved the technique, test it by applying more power. <S> Because the new technique uses different muscles, build it up carefully to avoid soreness. <A> Devil's advocate here, but why not try using flat pedals on your spin classes? <S> It would teach you correct technique by spinning in "circles". <S> But anyway, the previous answers have hit it right on the head <S> , it is either you are using a multi-release cleat or the tension in the pedals are too low or that you are "jerky" in your pedalling movements. <S> remember, pedal in circles and make it smoother :)
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If you can't get the tension to adjust and swapping the cleats doesn't work (if you're using SH-56), normally indoor cycling bikes have toe clips available as well. Pedalling smoother will also help. And try to pedal straight, as in keep your feet pointed directly forward all the time.
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Derailleur adjustment: front or rear first? When adjusting both front and rear derailleurs, which should be done first? <Q> If the derailers just need minor tweaking (they are basically in adjustment but are "not quite right") <S> then you adjust the one that is obviously wrong, check the overall adjustment again, then again adjust what needs adjusting. <S> Often only one derailer needs adjusting and often the adjustment is just a half-turn of the barrel adjuster. <S> If they are completely mucked up (but nothing visibly bent/broken), I usually first check the front for parallel and sprocket clearance (they often get knocked out of alignment), get it on the center sprocket, then address the rear. <S> Once the rear is basically correct, get the front to where it will shift to all rings with modest accuracy, then, trying all combos, adjust the rear some more. <S> Finally, fine-tune the front, then fine-tune the rear. <S> But it varies with the bike, how recalcitrant the derailers are, and specifically what is out of adjustment most. <A> There are three main steps to adjust both derailleurs. <S> The first is usually not necessary unless the rear is very far out of adjustment. <S> Adjust the rear derailleur enough that it will stay in the lowest and highest gears, even if you have to help it a little with finger pressure on the derailleur arm. <S> This may require adjusting the high and low limit screws. <S> Adjust the front derailleur: <S> Start by putting the rear in one of your middle gears. <S> Then run the front through each chain-ring and make sure that it will smoothly move from ring to ring. <S> Adjust as necessary. <S> Set the rear to the highest (smallest) gear. <S> Adjust the front so that it does not rub in any of your 2 or 3 chain-rings. <S> Set the rear to the largest (biggest) gear and repeat the tuning process. <S> In a 2 chain-ring setup, you have to make sure that the cross chain combinations (small-small and large-large) don't rub either. <S> In a 3 ring setup, it's not always possible or necessary. <S> If you have 1/2 clicks on the front shifter (most often in 2 ring setups), make sure to include them in the process. <S> If you can't seem to get the front to adjust without rubbing, it's possible the height and/or twist of the derailleur clamp has changed. <S> Check manufacturer's recommendations for position, if so. <S> Adjust the rear derailleur <S> : Put the front in smallest ring in front and tune the rear derailleur until you are satisfied with the speed and quietness of the shifting. <S> If it's noisy or grinds, it's not right yet. <S> Don't forget about the B-screw when tuning. <S> If it's out of whack, then your shifting will be difficult or inconsistent, depending on which way it's out of adjustment. <S> Next, move to your next biggest chain-ring and repeat the adjustment process of the rear derailleur. <S> If you have 1/2 click front derailleur adjustments, you will need to include them in your tuning process. <S> In a nutshell, adjust the front derailleur first, then the rear. <A> Answer : " <S> Yes" <S> Every part of the system affects every other part of the system. <S> So you could spend ages making the rear perfect, then go and tweak the front which puts the rear out again. <S> Like truing wheels, back and forth is your best answer to focus down on the best position for both. <S> Don't forget to clean everything before you do adjustments. <S> Makes life easier. <A> It does not matter. <S> The derailleurs are located on opposite sides of the cogs, so the the relative location of derailleur and chain depends only on shifter position, derailleur adjustment and which cogs the chain is on. <S> The derailleur on opposite side can not change chain position, except by moving the chain to different cog. <S> If you want to do the latter, you may need to switch between front and rear. <A> I learned that the rear should be adjusted completely first. <S> The front is notoriously difficult to get just right.
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It is far easier to adjust the derailleurs by sight, so that rear one lines up with cogs and front one has correct limits, than try iteratively adjusting until the shifting is smooth.
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I have a bicycle that is yet to have been identified by anyone It's a five speed with a Nervar crankset The rear derailleur is a Huret Allivet The single friction shifter lever is located on the downtube Remnants of a "Made in France" sticker cling to life close to said shifter It has a headbadge that is duplicated on the top tube of an illustration of a gentleman racing a bike with the words "Tour de France" hanging in the upper left corner. The illustration is cartoonish almost in an Archie style. I've sent emails, taken the bike to more shops than most will see in a lifetime and have strained my eyeballs to no end looking through google images in an attempt to give my daily a proper id. Here's what we know: Has anyone ever seen one of these bikes? Does anyone know what company or manufacturer made this bike? <Q> The graphics looks similar to a '61 Dynamax TDF edition, made by Motobecane for the Canadian market. <S> Could be a different model year maybe? <S> 61 dynamax decals.. <S> Look like a similar cartoon style. <S> Either way its pretty awesome! <A> Answer : Its a 1970s french racing bike in steel. <S> I see <S> cottered cranks (the wee bolts holding the cranks to the bottom bracket axle. <S> so its pre 1980s Lugged steel construction - there's an edge above your head badge sticker <S> Quill Stem <S> No rack or mudguard eyelets. <S> Observations: <S> the cranks appear unusually long. <S> Could be the camera fooling me though. <S> cable holders are on the bottom/right quadrant of the top tube. <S> I'd expect them to be along the very top of the top tube. <S> Head tube badge - its in poor condition, torn and colours faded. <S> But the bike I see pictured is accurate enough. <S> I'm unsure whether this is the original head badge or a sticker that someone has put on. <S> It might ring a bell with someone else here. <S> Suggestions: <S> Ride it, clean it, lube it, service it, and care for it. <S> The only upgrade I might recommend is to fit modern brake pads, because the newer compounds work better than the old black blocks. <S> You're unlikely to find 27" wheels anymore, but a 700c wheel is close enough. <S> The front brake I can see looks to have a lot of open slot below the nut, so you'll get the extra 4-6mm needed for a modern front wheel. <S> Rear wheel is harder, because 5 speed cassettes are getting uncommon. <S> You might end up rebuilding the existing rear hub into a new rim with new spokes. <S> When 27" tyres become hard to find, this may be your only answer. <A> It looks exactly like my 1974 M. Grand Touring -- <S> the frame, fork, headset, and bottom bracket are identical; even the frame color is the same. <S> And the pedals are the same, too. <S> (I don't have mine any more). <S> If I looked only at the second photo (except for the sprocket) I would have said it was the 10 speed Grand Touring... <S> One of the reasons I bought the Grand Touring was for the steel, cottered crankset (by Nervar). <S> The aluminum ones back then were soft and not considered to be as rugged or reliable. <S> It had what they called a 1040 or 1020 (or something like that) frame. <S> It wasn't light, but was great on steep hills -- had just the perfect stiffness to transfer all your energy. <S> Newer bikes seem like "wet noodles" when it comes to really steep hill climbing. <S> Per Criggie's post: 1) <S> The front fork is not bent, the rake looks exactly right to me. <S> 2) <S> The crank arms are extra long. <S> When I first got my M.G.T (first few days) I hit the ground with one of the pedals while turning a corner, fell and had to have the front wheel re-built. <S> Be careful when riding yours. <S> From https://www.reddit.com/r/bicycling/comments/1h9312/my_new_bike_1970s_motobecane_grand_touring/ <A> That looks like Huret's cheapest rear derailleur. <S> To ride it, you'd want to replace the headset and fork. <S> Why fix up a cheap bike? <S> If you're really considering it, at least remove the cotters and open up the French threaded bottom bracket to see if the cups are pitted. <S> Spindle also. <S> If they're not smooth - if there's pitting - I think you should look for a period French bike in better condition.
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If you're refurbishing it, throw away the old cable inner and outers and fit new ones for brakes and gears. 1970's wanna-be-a-racer French bike. Significant amounts of rake on the front fork (looks quite "bent") Search for Motobecane Grand Touring on ebay for photos 100% sure this was made by Motobecane.
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Should I ask for my money back - crack in Titanium frame About 2 years ago I got my new bike - an Enigma Ti bike. The frame was customised for Di2 and I had hydraulic disk brakes fitted. An expensive bit of kit that was supposed to last forever and make my commutes a pleasure.I love the bike, it's fantastic but yesterday I found this: When the guy at the bike shop (not the one I bought it from) saw it he said I was very lucky it hadn't given way. I had been hearing very worrying noises when applying power. My 18 mile ride home through London was done VERY carefully. So my question is should I accept a replacement frame or should I ask for my money back? This bike was about £5500 and I've done around 9,500 miles on it in 2 years.What is to say that this won't happen again and I'll end up under a bus? I am a heavy guy - hovering between about 16 and 18 stone over the last 2 years but surely a Ti frame should be able to cope with that? If I do decide to get a replacement what should I reasonably expect the bike shop to do about me not having a bike in the meantime. It's likely to be several weeks if not months to get me a new bike. In that time I expect to have a bike to do 180 miles (290 km) commuting on a week and I have long rides like the Ride London 100. I do have my old £500 bike but I'm probably going to have to spend a fair amount of money servicing it to get it usable again. <Q> As you're in the UK, the Consumer Rights Act applies. <S> I think you have to give them at least one attempt at repairing the frame (I don't know how feasible that is for titanium), and take it from there. <S> If you can, I'd talk to the Citizens Advice Bureau and/or Trading Standards if the shop gets difficult. <S> All this will be easier if you have proof of purchase, of course. <S> If I were you, I would want a refund, but would settle for a high-quality repair (and if it failed again in less than several years, I'd want the cash back). <A> I know this is a bit of an old post now <S> but... <S> Titanium Frames are, alas, renowned for failure regardless of the price. <S> You may be lucky and go a lifetime without issue or, like yourself (and I) have a frame failure. <S> The good thing with Enigma is they offer a ten year warranty on all their frames. <S> This is not a bike shop problem, especially after 2 years. <S> Contact Enigma directly, ask for a replacement. <S> A repair will never be as good or as pretty, particularly in that area. <A> I had a Trek which broke entirely through in the same place. <S> Turned out it was still ridable, and I managed to carefully ride it the 6 miles home. <S> I took it back to my local Trek dealer, and after a bit of debate they contacted the Trek rep and they agreed to replace the entire bike! <S> Good work <S> Trek. <S> Anyway, I'd certainly take your frame back. <S> I doubt they will provide something for you to ride in the mean time though.
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It would seem that a £5,500 bike that lasts less than two years isn't of "satisfactory quality", but I would be surprised if the shop simply gave you a refund. They should replace the frame and rebuild the bike for you. The frame was several years old, had seen some heavy use, and the frame, forks and handlebars were pretty much the only original parts.
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Bike pulses while applying the front brake. I'm unsure what the cause is Once per rotation of the front wheel, when braking, the bike pulses under me. The brakes are calliper rim brakes. Swapping wheels out fixes the problem - so it is definitely wheel related The wheel is true I can't see or feel anything different on the brake track. I have tried cleaning the brake track with degreaser and rubbing alcohol with no luck I have also sanded the brake track to try to remove anything that could be on there. I have measured the rim all the way round - exactly 19mm rim width the whole way around. The pulsing does not occur when the brake goes over the rim joint. And it's still happening. Any suggestions? <Q> Measure the rim in a more accurate way for starters. <S> Even 0.1mm can cause a change in the braking power. <S> Also, with the bike resting on its handles and seat, flipped over, ask someone to lightly hold down the front brake while you slowly turn the wheel and figure out exactly where the trouble spot is and how big it is. <S> If there is no visible difference, and you don't have the means to measure the rim more accurately, then it probably is the width of the rim being uneven. <S> If you can, see if the width of the rim changes radially, fatter near the tire and thinner near the spokes. <S> If the difference in this width isn't constant, it could be causing the problem <A> Remove the tyre and measure the sidewall thickness with calipers all around the wheel. <S> If part of it is measurably thinner than the rest, or if any part is below 1mm, it might be advisable to discard the wheel before the sidewall gives way and causes a bad crash. <S> The short video and forum thread might be useful. <A> I had this occur, and it was a monster of my own doing. <S> The first thing I would look at is where you sanded the area that you assumed was somehow unevenly being grabbed by the brakes. <S> I sanded a rim once, and I was careful to boot, but it created this incredible grabbing that was far worse than it was before. <S> The next thing I would look at would be the alignment of the rim brake calipers. <S> be sure the mounting nut is secure and tight,and that the brake pads sit roughly equidistant from the rim. <S> When I true a performance road wheel, I settle for a single mm of lateral play. <S> Not one of my customers has complained nor can I tell the difference. <S> I doubt that it is an alignment issue. <S> Pro mechanics go for 0.5mm lateral play, but hey...there professional racing mechanics. <S> And one more thing to check is that there isn't a loose spoke. <S> That spoke will compress excessively and loosen moreso at the top/bottom of the wheel rotation. <S> This will create a temporary warp in the rim, and will also occur very close to the brake pads contact point on the rim. <S> I had a set of Zipps that did that <S> and it drove me nuts till I caught it during an inspection. <S> Hope it helps. <S> Good luck! <S> Edit: <S> Another weak point on a rim is where the valve stem protrudes. <S> Does it occur there?
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If those wheels have significant mileage on them, you should worry that the rim wall (and braking surface) has become too thin and is bending under the pressure of the pads. On the other hand if you find that it does not occur at the same spot every time, maybe the problem is elsewhere. Wheels are very strong and can survive a loose spoke.
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Possible cause for Google Maps / bicycle odometer divergence (tire size setting correct) I have plot my exact route from home to my office using Google Maps. By exact, I mean that I took nearly every turn and change from auto-calculated route to match my exact route into consideration. Google Maps claims that my route is 10.4 km. Everyday I'm riding it, my bicycle's odometer claims that I have actually traveled 11.11 km. I did exactly the same with my return route (a bit different) and after including every actual turn, change etc. it turned out that route is 9.5 km according to Google Maps and 10.43 km according to my odometer. The difference is 0.7 / 11.1 = 6.3% on the outward trip and 0.9 / 10.4 = 8.6% on the return trip 1 . My first and of course obvious clue was an incorrect tire size setting in my odometer. However, I double-checked to be sure it's correct: I have (50-559) 26x1.95 tires, so I believe I should set it to 2089. What else could cause the difference? I have consulted this with a very experienced bicycle rider, but he mistakenly thinks it's because the Google Maps route doesn't always match the actual route. However, I spend some time adjusting the auto-calculated route, so it matches my actual route in about 99.5%. 1 Assuming that my difference calculation formula is correct. Plus -- I don't know why divergence is higher in case of return trip. The only clue, that I have is that it takes much more backroads, turns, slow downs (while onward trip is riding on the streets nearly all of time), which causes, that travel time is longer in case of return trip even though it is shorter. But, that is a weak argument as divergence should be the same in both / all cases. <Q> Google maps probably treats roads as not having any width, and corners as point turns. <S> Unlike bends, if you zoom in you tend to see a sharp 90 degree change in line on a curve <S> This will cost you the length of the arc you really take. <S> It certainly omits all the lane changes, obstacle avoidance and similar manoeuvres. <S> However there is some variation in tyres - particularly some of the anti-puncture tyres have a bit of extra thickness; inflation vs. weight on the wheel will also have an effect. <S> So you're better off seeing the wheel circumference based on counting the wheel revolutions over an accurately-measured straight line. <A> I point out that your comment of I have (50-559) <S> 26x1.95 tires I should set it to 2089. <S> Doesn't actually match your table, which says: 50-559 (26"x1.9") <S> 2089 <S> mm 54-559 <S> (26"x2.0") <S> 2114 <S> mm <S> So the ETRTO number and the imperial measurement are not quite equal. <S> Could be your circumference is closer to halfway between these, or <S> 2101 mm Downside <S> , this would put your reading up by 0.5% making it even larger, and further from the map distance. <S> Do the rolling distance measure repeatedly as others have suggested, for an accurate figure. <S> You can also consider putting your reader-magnet on the rear wheel, which should have less slip than the front one, and will follow a shorter path while you steer. <A> First do a rolling measure while sitting on the bike to get the speedo calibrated to your actual setup. <S> That's your method <S> B <S> They care about navigation much more than 5% errors on inner-city distances, so it might be that their map is less accurate than a proper cartographical one is. <S> Elevation change could likewise make a small difference. <S> That's likely to be worse the slower you go and the more you weave around other road users. <S> In the worst case, if you're weaving through stationary motorists at rush hour you could easily add 5% just for that. <S> Similarly if you're travelling barely faster than walking on a crowded shared path.
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The small weaving motions you make while riding to stay balanced also add to the distance, especially for the front wheel. Then I suggest also getting a proper map and making sure google's scale is correct.
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Tall rider - good cockpit/body position for downhill I have been riding mountain bikes since a long time, and I am riding only downhill/bikeparks since 2009. I've had several bikes, but I've never been in a real comfortable position when riding (or if I was, the bike was not good enough) : I feel that my upper body stands too much over the front wheel. For reference, I'm 1.9m tall (6"2 approximately), but I have long legs, not a long torso, and a "normal" arm length. I've owned several bikes: Short ones (M size) : they were very playful and fun to ride, but uncomfortable because in attack position my head is way above the bars/over the front wheel Long ones (L size) : my previous bike was a Kona Stab Deluxe, comfortable but too heavy, not easy to ride in tight singletracks. My current bike is a Scott Voltage FR 30 in L size, but seems a bit shorter than the Kona, so again I feel that my head is too much on the front of the bike. My current setup: 785mm wide bars with 0.5 inches of rise 40mm stem with 0° of angle Here's a picture with my bike so you get an idea : I've spent a lot of money on buying bikes during the last 7 years, so buying a new frame is not an option for the moment, plus my bike is really fun to ride. Question : would it help me to have a better downhill position if I install one or both of the following items: Longer stem (50mm, 60mm..), or a stem with more angle (5°, 6°), or both Bars with more rise (30mm, 40mm) Update : I finally bought 40mm rise bars, which is much better : I'm less bent on my bike, and I can lift the front wheel more easily! <Q> Are there other aspects that are causing you to position yourself wrongly on the bike? <S> Extend your fingers forward to continue the line of your arm and the lever should be rotated to touch under your fingers. <S> I'm a short person <S> so I'm not that qualified to say how a tall person should alter things but beware of over-reaching. <S> As mentioned before, you'll get a more direct feeling from your steering with a short stem but a little less stability. <S> I wouldn't go for a longer stem personally. <S> You may be able to raise your bars a little if you have spacers above your stem. <S> Failing that, so you have a bike shop locally that would let you borrow an ex-demo or second hand bar? <S> Could you try some bikes out in a shop to get a feel for reach? <S> Some shops have turbo trainers that could at least give you and idea of how different frame sizes feel. <A> As a similarly-proportioned person I know your pains. <S> But I don't go downhill off-road <S> so comments are more road. <S> As for visualising change, try and sit on the bike, hold the bars where they would be after fitting the new part. <S> I used a couple of F clamps to visualise the cockpit when planning an old rigid MTB, and that worked well enough for riding up and down my drive. <S> Its not perfect, but my old road bike went from a 110mm quill <S> stem to a 20mm stem confident that it would help my lower back pains. <S> Stems are cheaper than bars, if that helps. <S> Often these are used to figure out what you really want, and buy a fixed stem that matches the adjustment. <A> Longer stem? <S> No, I cannot recommend that, unless you are building a XC climbing machine. <S> I am also 6'2" and I've tried stems of different angle/length. <S> I would not recommend a longer stem on a DH bike... and yes the bigger the bikes get the harder it is to maneuver them on tight trails as you stated. <S> Bars with more rise? <S> Those bars look really flat, that I think is worth a try, you can find them fairly cheap. <S> I found a some Marin bars with good rise on ebay for 20 bux.... <S> the deals are out there. <S> I always like good rise out of my bars no matter what application it is for. <S> Have you looked into Salsa bikes? <S> They size their frames on the evens 16/18/20 inch which seem to work well for me. <S> I too have ridden kona and found the large frames to be too big.
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Also, you can get stems with adjustments for angle and length, but they're a lot heavier and some have a reputation for undoing themselves after a while. I was taught that to get the best brake angle you should stand behind the seat, feet on the floor and reach for the bars. But as far as stem, I go with what is recommended for the application, XC, DH, road... etc.
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Am I ready for a century? I've just learned of a local century ride that is only 2 weeks away. I'd like to join, but not sure if I'm ready. I've been commuting by bike for the last five years. The last year of my commuting has been 18 miles/day that I do at least 4 days/week. Over the last 2 months, I've done several weekend rides of 40-50 miles, but I haven't gone over 50. I usually take one 10-minute break at about the 75% mark during these longer rides. After these longer rides, I'm tired and hungry, but feel like I could keep going at a leisurely pace after eating. Am I ready to leap to 100 miles? I don't have any days between now and the event where I'll be able to go for more than about a 30-mile ride. The terrain for the century is flat, just like my normal biking. <Q> Its not the distance, its the time on the bike. <S> Assuming this is not a solo ride, you'll be riding with other people either in a proper rotating bunch ride, or just on the same road/direction as them. <S> This alone will increase your overall speed by as much as 20%. <S> You will need to eat regularly. <S> For me thats "something" every hour, a gel or chocolate or a bar or some sort. <S> Or bananas, some people like them. <S> Water is also big - One plain water bottle and one with electrolyte mix added. <S> You will be able to top-up water bottle at the filling stations, for 161 km I'd expect 3-5 total stations along the route. <S> Check the map, but plan for one to be missing - <S> its happened to me. <S> Filling stations are a rest point - you can get off the saddle while doing bottles, drink and eat, and go again. <S> Personally, 5 mins is plenty, but on a really long ride I like a 15 minute at somewhere over 50%. <A> NO , you're not ready. <S> I'm usually very encouraging for people to go for challenges, for example Training involved to ride 175 miles (281 km) in a day <S> But your situation is more like 1/3 Century or Metric Century? <S> Often, if you have to ask, the answer in <S> no . <S> You can think about it like this: for a given fitness level, each time you ride 50% further than your normal distance, it's about twice as hard. <S> The century ride is three to four times as hard as your current rides. <S> Two weeks gives you no time to train. <S> If you were training for this, you would be having your final training ride, a recovery ride , and then taper before the event. <S> You need to have that really under control. <S> A 50 mile ride can be done with a bottle of water and a banana. <S> 100 miles does not mean two bottles of water and two bananas. <S> But some heroic types could do it. <S> It would be painful. <S> Maybe they would have to call an ambulance, or someone else would have to. <S> Now, lets look at it another way. <S> You can test this. <S> Go for an 80 mile ride tomorrow, and see how you feel. <S> If you feel great at the end, and on the next day after, then you might be OK. <S> If that works, do 90 miles at the weekend. <S> But, I don't think that will work out. <S> Sorry. <A> I say go for it. <S> I will agree with @andy56 and say that this ride will be much different from any of your weekend rides. <S> You're going to need to eat more and drink a ton, your backside will hate you, and it could be torture, but you can finish the ride. <S> My first century I rode after a previous long ride of 55 miles. <S> This century was fully supported, with stops every 10 miles. <S> My plan, which worked out well, was to stop at every other station, and just long enough to fill up on water, shove a few bites in my mouth, and visit the facilities. <S> If you decided on taking part in the ride, let us know how it went.
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Another key thing that you haven't mastered is your food and drink regime for the ride. If you can do a 50 mile ride, you can do a century. If you can be seated on a bike for 6 hours in a day , you can do this ride.
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stop air leak when disconnecting inflator from presta valve Presta novice question. When removing the adaptor and quickly screwing the inside core down, air escapes. I've changed from a short Zefal pump to using a compressor. The tire says 50-60 PSI, but by the time it is disconnected I lose a lot of air. Do I go with the tire PSI or presta recs which are like 80-100? Thanks! <Q> In my experience there is always some air loss when you remove the pump from a Presta valve, but that air is lost from the pump side of the valve. <S> It's easier to see with a floor pump, since there's the hose to hold air. <S> In a floor pump there's <S> a check valve is at the pump end of that hose, and that will hold the air in the hose at high pressure even after you let go of the pump handle. <S> That high pressure air escapes when you release the valve. <S> With a handheld pump there should be much less air released when you pull it off, because there's probably no check valve - <S> the path from the pump chamber to the tyre is so short <S> it's not necessary. <S> Because it's so short <S> there's not a lot of volume to hold high pressure air. <S> Even if you release the pump from the valve while holding the pump handle in, you'll hear a little "phut" as the air escapes rather than the long "pssshhh" from a floor pump. <S> But usually you let go of the handle, it gets pushed out a little until there's not enough air pressure to push it further, and when you pop the handheld pump off the valve you don't hear anything. <A> Since the Presta valve closes after each pump-stroke the pressure in the hose is equal to the pressure in the inner tube. <S> The chuck does not mechanically open the valve as with Schrader (car-type) valves. <S> You will have to overcome this pressure with the following pump-stroke to get more air into the tube. <S> The maximum pressure obtained in the inner tube equals the maximum pressure the pump is able to build up. <S> Track pumps have a valve between the cylinder and the manometer. <S> The manometer will indicate and hold hold the value of the actual pressure. <S> When you remove the chuck from the valve the pressure is released with an explosive sound. <S> That's normal. <S> But you have to take care not to touch the sensitive top of the valve while removing the chuck because that will let some air escape. <S> It's a matter of quick and precise movement. <S> Presta valves don't have rubber gaskets as opposed to Schrader. <S> The airtight seal is achieved by a conical stem pressed into a conical hole. <S> The little knob pulls the surfaces tighter. <S> If the valve is in a good condition it will also hold the pressure without a tightened knob. <S> If the valve leaks after disconnection from the pump the tube (or the core of the valve if it is of that type) needs replacing. <A> You should never exceed the maximum pressure that the tire says. <S> I did some web searching, and your problem with air leaking out of the valve seems uncommon. <S> If that happened to me, I'd probably just buy a new tube. <S> Good luck! <A> Presta Valves, or any valve for that matter do not leak after you have taken the pump head off. <S> The valve should automatically close even without you having to screw down the valve. <S> Doing that only applies pressure on the valve to reduce leakage over time even further. <S> If the valve keeps leaking till you screw it down means that there is some damage in the rubber of the tube valve. <S> Where I live we can actually buy just the tube valve, disassemble the presta valve and replace the tube which might be damaged. <S> However, that requires some experience and a tube valve which you are unlikely to find. <S> Your best bet is to just buy a new tube. <S> Sidenote: Even on a new/fixed tube you will always have some very small leakage when you pull the pump head off. <S> This is because that little pin that gets pressed <S> down(that's what opens the valve and allows air in) <S> when you put the head on has to come back up and that only happens as fast as you can take the head off. <S> So don't be alarmed if you hear a short hiss when you pull the head off. <S> To reduce it, try pulling the head in one clean jerk <S> but it really wouldn't change much compared to the total volume of the tire
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But the tube shouldn't leak any air when the Presta core is unscrewed before or after you connect the pump; at that point you should have to push on the little knob that you unscrew to make air come out.
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How much longer will my 10 year old frame last? My friends say it will last forever, and not to worry about it.Online results show anywhere from two years to 25. I have no clue what to expect!! Let me give some context. I bought a decade old Specialized Epic Comp for about $550. There are no real problems with it. I needed to bleed brakes and replace the rear wheel, but that's beside the point. The m5 alu frame shows no signs of fatigue (eg, no cracks, dents, etc). Based on what the previous owner told me, I calculated that he has probably rode about 45 000 km on this bike.Note that this an XC bike so I don't assume that there would have been much opportunity to abuse the frame. So with all of this in mind, can anyone give me a rough estimate of how long this 10 year old bicycle frame might last? Sorry if this question is too vague/specific or already answered to a degree. Im new to this forum . <Q> The slightly sarcastic-sounding comment is correct, unfortunately. <S> Even if you used a high-end xray imaging system to carefully analyse the frame, the best you could say is "there are no obvious defects found". <S> You might find major defects, in which case you'd probably recycle the frame rather than riding it, but if you don't you haven't really learned a huge amount - there might be defects just below your ability to detect them, or of a type that you can't detect. <S> In general this is a class of problems summarised as " you can't prove a negative ". <S> I have bought and ridden bikes like that for years, generally until so many things are worn out that it's cheaper to buy a new bike than repair everything. <S> That is not unusual with bicycles, barring crashes the frame is often the last part to fail, and the failure is often "it wore out" rather than "it broke". <S> Threaded parts get too worn to hold whatever screws into them (bottom brackets), friction-fit parts get loose (like headset cups), parts that wear, wear to the point of being dangerous (dropouts). <A> I have a friend of mine who broke a Trek Alloy XC hardtail frame and Trek replaced it with its latest model. <S> Still, neither the front derailleur nor the headset were compatible, so he had to invest in both to get the bicycle back to work. <S> According to Specialized LIMITED WARRANTY POLICY FOR BICYCLES ( https://media.specialized.com/support/0000009968/0000009968_r3.pdf ) <S> Frames and forks on complete bicycles and framesets for the lifetime of the >original owner (subject to exclusions under the 1 and 5 Year periods below). <S> ALL SPECIALIZED BICYCLES AND FRAMESETS SHOULD BE PERIODICALLY CHECKED BY AN AUTHORIZED SPECIALIZED DEALER for indicators of stress, potential problems, inappropriate use, or abuse. <S> This Limited Warranty is not transferable and does not apply to: Normal wear and tear. <S> Wear and tear parts (as listed below) are subject to damage as a result of normal use, failure to service according to Specialized’s recommendations and/or riding or installation in conditions or applications other than recommended. <S> Corrosion. <S> Damage or failure due to accident, collision, crash, misuse, abuse, or neglect. <S> Improper assembly or installation. <S> Improper alteration or installation of components, parts or accessories not originally intended for or compatible with the Specialized bicycle as sold. <S> Failure to perform maintenance or service at appropriate intervals per manufacturer manual and instructions and supported by records of such maintenance. <S> Non-genuine Specialized products including without limitation counterfeit products. <S> Specialized bicycles not purchased new from an authorized Specialized dealer. <S> Just remember that frame parts such as bushings might need to be replaced once in a while. <A> It can last many years. <S> So many that you will probably have already got a new bike by then... <S> For example, I bought an Ideal Hillmaster in 2005 or 2006 with an 6061 alloy frame. <S> I learned what mountain biking is really all about. <S> Although being an xc bike, I hit lots of jumps, sick trails and gravity tracks. <S> 2011 <S> I got a full suspension to take the madness further and go downhill (on an 120mm trail bike :p). <S> 2016 <S> and I just changed wheels on my beloved hardtail <S> and I use it to ride around some dirt and in city. <S> It will never break. <S> So yours won't. <S> If you are not into gravity riding, you can keep it forever.
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More practically, if you carefully inspect the bike for obvious cracks, dents and other major damage, and don't find any, it's probably safe to ride. It may last for years and years as we are talking of an alloy frame, but it is not unbreakable.
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Is there a type of bottle cage that doesn't scratch bottles? I have bottle cages similar to these ones and I don't like that my bottles get scratched after a while. Will this also happen with plastic or carbon fiber cages? I don't like the idea of having to buy new bottles every time they look all scratched. Any tips will be appreciated. <Q> I think that's a generic chinese bottle holder cage with the word "Bontrager" printed on it. <S> The price alone implies its not "authentic". <S> Any cage that employs friction as a retaining mechanism will scratch up bottles/bidons after a while. <S> limit the scratching, using a layer around the bottle (a clean sock soaked in water used to be a pro thing to keep the bottle cooler) <S> buy a bottle like this - it clips onto two bosses. <S> keyword: "cageless" buy a bottle like this - it uses magnets in the mount to attract the steel ring on the bottle. <S> Keyword "koala bottle" Hydration backpack. <S> Had to put it in as an option, and the roadies are all thinking "hellno!" <S> Buy an adapter like this - removes the need to slide bottle in/out while riding. <S> Downsides, looks a bit weird, and you still have to take the bottle out to fill and wash. <S> Keyword "h2bike" buy a bottle "system" like this: Just don't loose the bottle cos nothing else will fit the clips. <S> keyword "elite cronos" Apply rule #5 . <S> My bottles last about 3 years on average before cracking or the thread goes wonky, or they vanish down a hillside after a crash. <S> I get a couple bottles a year from events that I go in, so there's always some around. <S> Last resort is to use 500-750 mL drink bottles, like flavoured milk or various carbonated beverages. <S> They may not have a sippy lid but work well enough as the second bottle. <A> You don't have to buy new bottles every time they look scratched -- they're still perfectly functional as water bottles. <S> An adjustable cage (like the Topeak Modula EX) may help as well, since you can have the cage adjusted to the point where it just grips the bottle. <S> If you really care about the aesthetic, you can attach some felt or other non-scratching substance to the parts of the bottle cage where the bottle comes into contact with the cage. <S> This can be done with tape or glue. <S> Alternatively, you can buy a different type of bottle with less scratch-able decals. <A> Sorry, like anything else in this world, it will wear away over time. <S> Budget for new bottles every four months and you will be shiny.
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Depending on cage design, you may find that plastic or carbon fiber cages don't scratch bottles as much (but you have essentially some light paint on a water bottle, and if you rub it enough with any bottle cage it will eventually come off).
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Stripped threads on left crank on the first ride I just purchased a new road bike and had a friend assist me in the assembly. There must have been a problem because it fell off after only 2 miles of riding for the very first time. I used a pedal wrench and tightened it. The pedal was indicated as being the "left" pedal and has reverse threads. Now the threads on the left crank are about half stripped. I have successfully screwed the pedal on but am worried about it failing now. The crankset is a Shimano FC-RS500. I would post a picture but I don't want to do anymore damage to the threads by taking it off again. Do I replace the left crank now or just wait and see? <Q> First thing to check: the left pedal uses a left-handed thread. <S> Was it screwed in correctly? <A> I'd be contacting whereever <S> you got the bike from and raise the question of <S> warranty - given its a brand new bike. <S> Also, check whether self-assembly voids the warranty... <S> some have a rider that "bike must be assembled by an authorised dealer" <S> I think Giant has this requirement. <A> You can chase the threads back around with a thread cutting kit and you can also repair the thread with a helicoil kit. <S> If the pedal is in and secure - you might get away with using a threadlock to keep it in place. <S> And of course there is also the option to buy a secondhand replacement from ebay.
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Depending on the amount of damage to the threads, it may be possible to sort-of screw it back in the wrong direction, which will damage it even more. Warranty may be void if you attempt to repair it yourself.
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Headset wobble after tightening I own a Cannondale Super Six 105 (Ultegra now) Carbon 2012 bike and I can't stop the wobble in the headset. If I tighten down the top cap (with 6mm hex) I can get rid of the wobble (hands on the drops holding brakes - headset has a fair bit of play) but I cannot move the wheels freely with the handlebars. I stripped it down, cleaned it and assembled it again but its still wobbly after tightening the inner 5mm allen key. Do I need a new headset ? It's KP044 I think. The bearings move around nice and easy but the compression ring feels very rough to touch. The bike is 4 years old, 30,000+km cycled on it, I'm not sure whats wrong - (1) I didn't tighten properly (2) headset needs replacement or (3) bike is old and something wrong with frame. Would a new KP044 fix it for me or could the bike be kaput ? Also if I cycle on (1-2 weeks) with a wobble will it do damage to the frame ? Some pictures I don't know if the pictures are much of a help but everything is there except a bit of a rough corner feel. <Q> It sounds as through you loosened the compression nut inside your carbon steer tube, which you should not have done. <S> That bolt (the 5mm inside) should be tightened once during installation and is not touched for a headset adjustment (or than to perhaps check it is still tight). <S> When you loosened that bolt, you made it so that the top cap will simply pull the compression nut up, rather than pull the fork and compress the headset bearings. <S> By comparison, a fork with a metal steer tube will generally use a star nut. <S> These are hammered into place and will not move up. <S> The metal wings cut into the tube and allow the top cap to compress the headset. <A> I had a similar problem with a recently serviced relatively old trek. <S> When I applied brakes or did a bunny hop, I could feel the handle move around. <S> This may not apply to you since your bike is no <S> where near as old as mine was <S> but this was the problem with mine. <S> When I rebuilt it and removed all the dirt after it was sitting in my garage for nearly 3years unused, the gap became more noticeable. <S> My only choice was to replace the bearing. <S> This might be your problem if you've not used it for a long time <S> and you recently cleaned up the inside of it. <S> Note: the compression bolt mentioned above did nothing to remedy the solution. <S> So if it doesn't in your case too, the bearing might just have worn out from use and grime stuck inside prevented you from noticing it <A> I got the new bearings Thursday evening <S> and once I installed and tightened the headset there was no wobble. <S> I took the bike out on a 130km cycle Friday and the bike was like new, <S> going around corners felt so much better/safer/solid. <S> I didn't feel I had to even reach for the brakes <S> so I must have needed a new headset way before now. <S> The LBS somehow managed to tighten the headset in the past when servicing the bike for me <S> but I can't compare the two. <S> I didn't get the bottom bearing removed. <S> It doesn't seem to come off too easily but its not causing problems. <S> The new Cannondale come with a plastic cover (left of the top cap) that seems to sit on the bottom bearing. <S> Not for my 2012 model as its too small.
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Tighten the interior (the 5 mm inside) compression nut in place, then restart your headset adjustment process and hope that you haven't damaged the headset by riding it improperly adjusted. This setup is inappropriate for a carbon steertube since it damages the carbon. The bearings in the tube had worn out significantly and dirt and grime had taken the place of metal. There new compression nut that does a better job than the older model.
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How can I check if my bike is safe for touring? I have an old second-hand bike that I use daily for commute, and in a few weeks I want to take it on my first bike tour around Europe. I'm a bit worried, since the bike is quite old (has some rust spots, a loose spoke or 2, etc.), that it might not be the safest thing to do. However it never had any problems while riding around the city, and unfortunately I don't really have money for a new bike or parts. Are there some standard checks one can do to see if it's fit for touring? Are there any serious problems that I should be worried about? <Q> There is no standard test for worthiness, you'll have to rely on your judgement. <A> Before taking it in for a tuneup, it'd be worth checking if any spoke nipples have seized up. <S> Then you can spray them with penetrating oil (wd-40 or gt-85 ... ) giving it plenty of time to soak in so that your bike mechanic is able to true the wheel properly. <S> When you get the bike tuned up, see if you can watch the mechanic whilst they do it. <S> That way, you'll know how to fix some things should they break on your bike tour. <S> Reflecting on my own experiences bicycle touring, the real dangers have been being stranded in the middle of nowhere because I can't fix my bike. <S> So finding a practical bike maintenance course before going would be a good idea. <A> Get it serviced. <S> If your not sure what your looking for a service is a must, go visit your local bike shop and explain what your plans are. <S> Also, M Check. <S> I always do the M check before a long ride or once per week. <S> M-Check : <S> http://www.cyclinginstructor.com/Bicycle_m_check Enjoy your ride
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Get the bike serviced, giving yourself enough time to thoroughly test it, so that if the service introduces any problems, you discover them long before your trip.
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Frame manufacturer not covering crack as saying it was crash damage My Ti frame developed a huge crack in the frame a week or so ago. A pain I thought bit it'll be covered by warranty... The frame builder is now saying that it's crash damage. I really really doubt it's crash damage. I have fallen off this bike twice, once I went into the back of a slowing cyclist, the other my front wheel came out from under me and I slid along the ground.Both of these were nearly 2 years and around 10,000 miles ago. What can I do? It's my word against theirs. They said that scratches on the hoods mean that it's been crashed! Those scratches are 2 years old when the bike slid along the ground. Scratches on the frame are from when I leant it against my garage wall and it fell over. They can't use scratches to determine if it's crashed. Absolutely fuming about this, I hope some of you guys can help. I live in the UK for your information. Some pictures: <Q> Despite what others have said, a warranty is a bona fide contract between the company and you. <S> It's used in the selling of the product thus is covered by decent consumer protection law (in the UK anyway). <S> This article from Which suggests a good process to follow. <S> A good bike shop should be able to write something up for you. <S> Then show that to the company. <S> If you end up in a deadlock with them, then contact the financial ombudsman . <S> Another avenue to follow might be section 75 of the Consumer Credit act. <S> " <S> Don't forget that if you pay for anything with a credit card between the value of £100 and £30,000, your credit card company can be jointly responsible for any faults that develop. <A> I'd highly recommend two courses of action. <S> First, take a couple deep breaths and then call back the manufacturer. <S> Play nice <S> , if they still refuse to warranty it, ask what they can/are willing to do. <S> Perhaps they can repair the frame at a discounted price. <S> Perhaps they can offer you a steep discount on a new frame. <S> See if there is anything they are willing to do that you feel also feel would be fair (or more fair than just being SOL). <S> If that route doesn't work, play the social media card. <S> Find their company profile on some site and post a review (again without a lot of details or emotion) explaining that you bought their product, you believe it failed due to defect and they were not willing to honor their warranty. <S> Some companies forget that their information and reviews about them are out there for everyone to see and their poor behavior has consequences. <S> It will perhaps either prompt them to better behavior, or at the very least warn their future customers what they are getting into. <S> All other things aside, I have a couple of Ti frames. <S> One from a largish manufacturer that has been "crashed" a couple times and is still fine. <S> The other I had from a much smaller manufacturer that developed a similar crack around the seat tube/top tube intersection from a badly brazed in seat tube sleeve. <S> The frame was replaced outright and nearly without question. <S> The replacement frame has lots of miles on it several "crashes" and is still fine. <S> Both mine are winter rides; ice is slippery and crashes happen. <S> Most titanium frames should be more robust than what I am seeing in the picture and hearing from your description. <S> If you can't come to a agreeable resolution with your manufacturer, I'd suggest a bit of research into a more reputable company in the future. <S> Good Luck! <A> Nothing. <S> If the manufacturer doesn't want to play ball, you're scuppered. <S> In this case they appear to have no goodwill. <S> Unfortunately your case shows that for the most part, warranties should be treated with a pinch of salt. <S> Not much consolation for you, I know.
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There is no way you can prove your case one way or the other, so you're reliant on the goodwill of the manufacturer. Keep a record of the contact with the company, try to follow their warranty procedure. If you're sure that the warranty exclusion isn't valid (crash damage), then it'd be worth getting an independent opinion on whether or not the crack was crash damage. You can either claim for a refund using Section 75 of the Consumer Credit Act or, if you are looking to get the product repaired, you can claim for the cost of repairs." Without too many details to cloud the issue, and without too much emotion, explain that you believe you have a frame crack that in your estimation is from a defective weld.
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Disassembling crank on a 2006 Trek Pilot 2.1 I'm trying to disassemble the crankset on my 2006 Trek Pilot 2.1 ; the bike has all OEM parts. The crank is a Bontrager race crankset, which I'm to understand is a a rebranded Truvativ crank. For a bottom bracket, it uses an SRAM Giga X Pipe (GXP) . The crank is a two-piece press-fit: it's a hollow tube press fit into the drive side, with ISIS splines on the non-drive side. I'm trying to disassemble the crank and bottom bracket, so that I can clean the crank and crank spindle, and replace the bottom bracket. I've unscrewed the GXP bearing cups and removed the crank from the frame, but there's this one last little component on the crank spindle that's keeping me from removing the rest of the GXP bottom bracket. I want to know how I should remove it so that I don't damage the spindle. I'm not sure what the part is, or if I'll need it for installing the new GXP bottom bracket. Here's a shot showing the crank, spindle, and GXP bottom bracket as it is right now: And here's a close-up of the spine, showing the collet I can't get off: Yeah, I know it's a mess; that's why I'm trying to disassemble and clean everything and replace the GXP bottom bracket. That grease isn't grease anymore, it's more like metallic paste. Yuck. I've already tried some light tap-work to try to get it off; it didn't budge, but I didn't go hard because I don't know if I'll damage it. Also, interestingly, it spins very freely in place. In summary: I'm replacing the GXP bottom bracket in whole, so I don't care about destroying it or old pieces that came out of it. Do I need to preserve this collet? Did it come from the old GXP bottom bracket? If I do need to preserve it, how do I get it off? If I don't need it, I plan on trying to tap it off with screwdriver and a hammer; if that doesn't work, then cut it in half and split it open. Also, since a few other people I had asked had been confused about this - the drive side of the spindle is permanently press-fit into the drive side bracket / crank arm assembly, since it's all one piece. Here's a picture: <Q> I would try reinstalling the drive side and non drive side cups to the frame (to keep the spindle centered). <S> Then I would recommend a game of whack-a-mole on the spindle with a rubber mallet. <S> I have often had to remove a crankset this way. <S> A rubber mallet should be in pretty much any home mechanics tool kit. <S> The rubber mallet has almost no chance of damaging the spindle. <S> Provided <S> you don't smash/dent your frame with it, it should be fine. <S> some as you rubber mallet the spindle. <A> I was able to get the collet off with some gentle tapping from a screwdriver and a hammer. <S> The collet is a soft metal, my screwdriver definitely made a mess of the metal. <S> If someone in the future has the same problem, use some sort of hard plastic to buffer the hits. <S> This cracked the GXP plastic middle sleeve, so I do not recommend this method to anybody else in the future. <S> It doesn't matter to me because I'm replacing the GXP BB wholesale. <S> The collet was part of the inner race of the bearing - its purpose is to push against the GXP inner plastic sleeve. <S> Here's a picture showing the dry-fit assembled crank: . <S> You can see the gap between the non-drive arm and the textured metal where that collet used to be, which is where the bearing supports the spindle. <S> Here's a close-up of the splines, you can tell by the wear marks where the collet sat and where the arm meshes: <S> Here's a close-up of the collet (with plenty of gouge marks from my screwdriver): <S> The bearings didn't fall apart with this removed because it's just there to push on the GXP middle plastic sleeve: <S> You can see the same collet on the new bearing, though it's much thicker, and appears to be more integrated into the bearing; I'd bet the bearing would fall apart if the new bearing had this piece removed: Big thanks to everybody for the ideas on what this piece was and how to take it apart. <S> Thanks guys! <A> From what can tell from the photos it looks like the inner race is seized to the crank axle. <S> When you removed the non drive side bearing did the ball bearings fall out? <S> You can try to carefully cut the race off with a Dremel with a cut off wheel. <S> You must be very careful not to go too deep and hit the crank axle. <S> I would cut 9/10th of the way through. <S> Then hit the slot with a chisel and see if it will split the race. <S> If you aren't really comfortable doing this ask your LBS to do it for you. <S> A mistake will be costly.
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With the cups on tightly and nondrive side crank off, you may also try rocking the drive side crank arm back and forth I did try to bash it out by reassembling everything and applying wood + hammer to the spindle end.
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Any drills for looking while riding? I have come to believe that the major skill when riding singletrack is scanning the terrain. After any turn there could be a hiker, a fallen log or just a boulder that you didn't memorize during the last pass. From then on, the reflexes, embedded in the muscle memory, kick in and braking/turning/dabbing/hopping occur. I attempt to look as far forward as speed dictates, and not to get fixated on obstacles. Still, the perpetual concentration becomes tiring after a couple of hours. Any tips on both how to both improve scanning at high speeds and how to become less fatigued by a whole day of riding? <Q> Just keep on doing what you're doing. <S> To get good at anything, the easiest way is to keep doing that thing. <S> As an aside, I find I descend a lot quicker when I'm wearing a cap with the peak down. <S> I think that having the peak in my field of view forces me to keep my head up. <A> Some suggestions: Follow someone else who better than you. <S> Try to keep up - you'll be looking at where they are, ahead of <S> you helps you anticipate whats coming up. <S> Ride the same track in the dark, and its a whole new experience. <S> Your light only throws so far - even the best ones only reliably show up 20 metres ahead and that tends to be a spot not a flood. <S> Lower your saddle a bit - less aero and more upright will help a bit. <A> Don't just look. <S> You can look by just moving your eyes. <S> No, looking's not enough - you want to look . <S> - you want your head up and leading your body. <S> Every few seconds scream "LOOK!!" <S> in your head (or out loud, doesn't matter to me) - and then look <S> * . <S> (Not just look.) <S> (*With your chin.)
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Don't point your eyes, don't even just point your head - point your chin where you want to go
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What parts needed with new chainring? I've read that the chainring is that spikey gear wheel at the bike's pedals that the chain egages with. The teeth on that chainring are so worn on my bike that the chain jumps off depite adjusting the derailleur. The teeth of the chainring at the back wheel don't seem as worn, although this answer says they wear faster. When replacing the chainring, it seems I should purchase: Crankset Chain Chain adjuster tool Are there other parts that should be changed at the same time? Here are three photos of different parts of the chainring: <Q> If the chain rings are badly worn, its almost certain the cassette (rear cogs) and <S> chain need replacing. <S> do not change the chain rings on their own. <S> The chain rings on most cranks can be replaced. <S> Some cheaper ones (mostly kids bikes) use rivets, and you need to replace the whole crank set. <S> If possible, the easiest thing to do is replace chain rings with identically sized ones. <S> The BCD (Bolt circle diameter) must match, you can vary the number of teeth but that changes the gearing and might need to adjust or (worst case) replace the front dérailleur, and may also need to replace the rear derailuer. <S> If you decide to changing cranks, you will need to match the bottom bracket you have, or get a new bottom bracket. <S> if you need to change BB, you can end up in BB standards hell sooner than you can imagine. <S> Keeping the same BB and Crank set is by far the easiest. <S> Rear cassette - easiest is replace like for like - same speeds and number of teeth on the big cog. <S> Chain - if you keep all the gears the same number of teeth, you can make the new chain the same length as the old one (presuming old was correct), otherwise you will need to work out the correct length for the new chain. <S> Tools required: <S> Chain whip cassette removal tool. <S> Hex keys <S> maybe a chain ring bolt spanner Crank removal tool for your cranks (usually squaretaper, but a dozen others exist) <S> Maybe a BB spanner if replacing BB. <S> Chain breaker. <A> If your crank arms are in good shape, you could just get the chainring(s) and not the whole crankset. <S> You "should" also get chain and cassette as the rear cassette could be more worn than you can see and the chain will not run smoothly and could jump around on you. <A> That last photo shows the chain on a smaller chainring. <S> Notice the air-gap under the chain? <S> That is a clear sign that the chainring is worn and the "effective" gap between teeth is now larger. <S> So instead of the load being shouldered by multiple teeth, one single tooth carries the load for an instant, accelerating wear of the chain and the tooth. <S> You're up for chain and chainrings, and its worth doing the cassette at this time too. <S> You might even want to do the jockey wheels for a clean sweep.
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As with the chain rings, if you change the number of teeth you may need to adjust or replace the rear derailleur.
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Is there a technique/tool to assist with rear derailleur high, low, and index alignment? Everything I read gives this picture like this: Yet the reality of this alignment, it can be somewhat difficult. Is there a better technique or tool to help get the high, low, and index shifting alignment perfect? Or is visual vertical alignment the only way? <Q> There is a tool for the case of a bent hanger, namely the Park Tool DAG-2. <S> You should also visually inspect for the derailleur pulleys to be aligned in the right way. <S> Then, you do the standard derailleur adjustments , which you'll get right after practicing (limit screws, B-screw, indexing). <S> The whole thing becomes a combination of visual inspection and testing and practice, as DRH remarked in the comments. <S> But most cyclists who are going to do their own maintenance will have to deal with this a bunch of times in their life time anyway, so they'll get used to it. <S> And cyclists who don't do their own maintenance will likely just be fiddling with the indexing adjustment a bit and if something more is necessary (e.g. if they had a crash), they'd head to a shop. <A> I haven't found a tool that does better than visual alignment. <S> Fine tuning needs to be done by testing the drivetrain, preferably on a stand or balanced upside-down first, then under pressure on the road or trainer. <S> Slight differences in tolerances (wear, frame geometry, etc.) <S> mean even a perfect cog to cassette alignment might not work as smoothly or quietly in every case. <S> Also keep in mind <S> the shifting and indexing at both extremes should be under control of the shifter, not the limiters. <S> The limiters just prevent catastrophe if something slips or otherwise screws up. <S> If you're shifter has to push against the limiter on the inside, you're putting undue stress on the system, increasing its likelihood of slipping, stretching, or shortening its life. <S> I've done the following dozens of times: <S> Make the cable is slack or disconnected. <S> Set the outer limiter <S> (H-screw in your diagram) using your hands and eyes. <S> The spring pushes the derailleur out. <S> You'll want to be slightly too far out; you'll tighten it later. <S> Install the cable using instructions for your specific derailleur. <S> Usually, start adjusters to the most or close-to-the-most slack setting (adjuster rotated clockwise from the shifter's perspective). <S> Pull the cable taught by hand or using a cable puller. <S> Assuming you have compatible shifters, everything else will be close. <S> Pedal and shift to the larger gears. <S> Loosen the inner limiter if necessary to get there. <S> (Remember to shift the front as well. <S> Crossing gears can result in a noisy drivetrain no matter how well the rear is aligned.) <S> Adjust alignment again if necessary. <S> Set the inner limiter close but not against the aligned position. <S> Again, the limiter should prevent the chain from coming off, but not interfere with the shifter's indexing. <S> Shift back to the smallest gear and do the same with that limiter if it's not already correct. <S> Test and keep adjusting as you ride and find the gear configurations you tend toward. <S> This is all pretty close to what Park Tools recommend: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment <A> Otto makes a tool, combined with a smartphone app to assist with the alignment of the rear derailleur. <S> I have used it <S> and it works fine on both 10 and 11 speed road setups. <S> Website link .
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Roll the adjuster until the derailleur is aligned with the smallest gear and spins quietly. Visual alignment will get you close. Well, the first thing to check is if the derailleur (usually the hanger) is bent .
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How old is this rear steer skip tooth tandem? How old is this Tandem Rear SteerSkip tooth?? <Q> This looks like a prototype or maybe even a home-made version due to the way the horizontal cross tube for the second rider looks unevenly cut off just before reaching the first rider's seat post. <S> Dating will be a bit of a trick - <S> the angles of the down-tubes don't match anything I can find on the net with a cursory search, but rear steer tandems were popular as far back as the 1890's in quite a few designs. <S> Prices seemed to average around $150 USD. <S> Many got recycled/ <S> refurbished in the 1930's and later, usually with upgraded seats and tires/wheels. <S> The seat in the picture doesn't look more than 50 years old. <S> Brands names that I have come across are Colsen and Geneva. <S> The cranks remind me of pre-1940's bikes with the spindly crank arms, as opposed to tapered cranks that are more commonly seen today. <S> I would suggest looking closely at the frame, even the underside, for any marks that show names or numbers. <S> It's not too far off from the late 30's Colsen models, so <S> update: <S> looks like I found the exact same bike at this eBay link: <S> http://goo.gl/yxirV8 added by Nul: Seller says: "looks as if it's been repainted at one time. <S> the wheels and tires don't look right for this bike, although the rear wheel sprocket is skip tooth. <S> seats are not original. <S> one pedal is different from the rest. <S> i do not know what kind it is, there is no badge. <S> the number is in the photo, looks to be #46556. <S> there are a few dents here and there. <S> buy them when you see them!!" <S> Photos from auction (added so they're not lost when link disappears from ebay) <S> Auction closed on 30th June 2016 with a hammer price of $699.99 USD <A> Between wars seems most likely . <S> Colson fits the structure , not a custom or prototype . <S> 70 plus years old (plenty of time for alterations) . <S> originaly had 28" wooden rims and single tube tires (very expensive to get now ) and was re-wheeled to make it rideable appears to be 27" likely done in the mid 70's earliest . <S> Now 29er street tires would fill the fenders well . <S> The "hacked up" bottom bracket was frugality at the factory > <S> make it with what we have here <S> < common to low volume cycles <S> then. <S> Great find , enjoy the ride . <A> ***** <S> Clearly a 1939 or earlier era bike, (never judge a bike by it's tires, or crummy seats) clearly painted by a 7th grader. <S> Even the serial number look VGT, skip tooth and other accessories <S> tell me it's pushing 80 years old. <S> Someone needs to strip it, get proper wheels, tires, seats, and make it presentable. <S> ***
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Might be hard to do as the paint looks a lot newer than the bike and may have filled in the letter/number stamping on the frame, or any mounted/welded/riveted ID plates. i did find a serial number on the bottom of the front pedal shaft housing. I'm making an educated guess it is at least pre-World War 2.
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Can these shifters be fixed? Scratches? I got into an accident where my handlebars got bent. They are very firm and do not seem to budge with force, but I'm a small guy. Can they be fixed? Can I do it myself? What tools would I need? How much would it cost for someone else to do it? Is this considered major damage, or something minor? Additionally, how difficult would it be to fix these scratches/marks? Damaged Handlebar Undamaged Handlebar Marks/Scratches <Q> The first question is "is the handlebar actually bent?". <S> Brake levers/shifters are just clamped onto the bar, and the clamp may have just slipped. <S> It's not clear from the angle of the picture that the bar may be fine but the clamp on the brifter slipped. <S> You can peel back the hood (back to front) and adjust the clamp if this is the case). <S> The stress of bending the handlebar back may increase the likelihood of failure. <S> Plus, handlebars are not very expensive or hard to replace. <S> As for fixing scratches on shifters, you can buy just the name plate if you want, but if the shifters work fine I wouldn't bother. <S> The part numbers are Shimano Y-6KD98030 and Y-6RR98030 for the ST-5600 levers (look for the exploded view of your shifters on Shimano's website). <S> Then you can find the parts by searching the web for a few bucks. <S> Finally, I'd give the whole bike a once over as if I was considering buying it used if anything else is wrong, for some peace of mind; there are a ton of questions on buying used bikes on this SE which you can look at for what to check. <A> Consider the scratches as war wounds. <S> They're only cosmetic, but they show you ride; that you're not a cycling poseur. <S> If the scratches really bother you, consider bogging it with automotive filler, then file and sand to shape, and paint. <S> It will add grammes of weight though! <S> As for adjusting the hoods, you need a 5mm (maybe 4mm, maybe 6mm) <S> hex driver tool, aka an allen key. <S> You probably has one on your bike multi-tool, but sometimes a longer shop one gives more torque. <S> Unpeel the top of your brake hoods like this <S> : Then push the driver down the inside between the rubber and the brake to the pinch bolt. <S> Loosen, adjust, retighten, and finally reclip the rubber to the brake. <A> From the first picture, it looks like the shifter has been knocked out of position <S> but there's no damage to the bars themselves. <S> If that's the case, it should be an easy fix. <S> A good bike shop wouldn't charge much to put it right. <S> The scratches on the shifter are only cosmetic, and I'd be surprised if it was cost-effective to replace the parts unless you (or the aforementioned bike shop) happen to have the bits to spare (maybe from a previous repair or upgrade). <S> I've got a few scratches on my (very similar) shifters, and while they bothered me at first, I don't notice them now.
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If it is the case that the handlebar itself is actually bent (which I think is unlikely; if this was the case, the brifter would likely be toast), I'd just buy a new handlebar.
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Can a belt driven bike be used in a hilly area? I have been thinking about getting a Canyon Commuter 4.0 but I am worried about the internal geared belt driven system this bike has. The only ones that come with a pannier rack are the belt driven models. How would it perform on a hilly commute? Is it ideal? I climb about 450 meters every day. I used to do it on a single speed bike so the 8 gears of the Shimano Alfine hub should be enough, but I am worried about the belt. <Q> from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/nexus8.shtml <S> the lowest ratio is 0.57 which is as low as many mountain bikes. <S> The belt is actually wider than a metal chain and has longer life, so should be more robust: http://www.conti-drive-system.com/pages/faq/faq_en.html . <S> But for 450m of climbing, it should be fine. <A> I commute up some steep hills (20% +) although with only 170m height gain, on an Avanti Inc 2 that is belt drive / Alfine 8 equipped. <S> I've had no issues with water (unlike on a regular chain/derailleur MTB) despite riding in very heavy rain. <S> The bike is nearly 4 years old and is holding up well. <S> On the plus side with hub gears, you can change gears while stationary, ideal for commuting I find. <S> On the downside, you do have to ease off while shifting if you have an ounce of mechanical sympathy. <A> I would caution against it, not because of the belt drive, but because of the internal gear hub. <S> I commuted for 2 years on a SRAM IGH. <S> Water always got inside it until it rusted so bad it was useless. <S> When it was cold, the water in the hub would freeze into a block of ice <S> and I'd have to warm it before I could ride. <S> I replaced it with an Alfine 11 and the same thing happened, also after 2 years. <S> In both cases the bikes were parked inside, but would often get wet during my commute. <S> If you don't ride in the rain, maybe this will be OK. <S> The gearing should be fine for your climbing. <S> But if you pedal hard, you'll hear crunching noises inside the hub. <S> And they're not cheap to replace.
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Yes, the gearing should be fine. But the internal hub has more moving parts, so is slightly less efficient than derailleur based system, meaning you have to pedal a bit harder. There is no sign of wear in the belt, but the hub sometimes slips in 5th gear (the direct drive ratio) which means it might be time to strip it and give it an oil bath.
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Should I seal the open spoke holes on my front rim? I have a 16 spoke front wheel on my road bike. The hub is an oddball Shimano one with 16 big nipples at the hub end instead of the rim end. This wheel also has a 32 hole aluminium/aluminum rim: I washed the bike in the weekend and dried it in the sun, then hung it up. On the first ride I pushed it for half-a-wheel revolution, and water came out of the rimholes that were at the bottom and are now at the top. Total quantity was perhaps a couple of tablespoons worth? Should I seal up the 16 open holes with something? Theres no way they'll ever be used for spokes. I don't know if this was the original rim or hub, given its a 1998 bike there's a good change its been replaced. EDIT 2 years later I have retired this wheel. It broke a single spoke on a downhill road at about 50 km/h (35 mph) and the sudden lack of true made it rub the brake/fork while shaking madly. The spoke broke toward the hub end, so I still had the oversized nipple stuck in the hub and the rest of the spoke was hanging from the rim. My suspicion is the spoke was weak from someone (maybe me) holding it badly while truing which weakened the metal with a score/scratch. If one more spoke broke it could have locked up with a nasty full speed prang. A normal 32 spoke wheel could survive the loss of multiple spokes before becoming unrideable. I did replace the dead spoke, but all of them have a phenomenal level of tension on them, which is also a concern. For now, its hanging on a hook as a spare wheel. <Q> It would be best if you could get 16 hole rim ( <S> yeah <S> I know the may be hard to find). <S> Holes on the rim go in the zig-zag pattern, and since you skip every second, all your spokes are on one (zig) side of the wheel. <S> This is less than ideal, and in my humble opinion bigger concern than rain coming in empty holes. <A> Cover each hole with a small piece of tape/sticker. <S> It will help to keep water out certainly (if you are an all seasoned rider). <S> My vote is for tape simply bc <S> it would not risk drying out and falling into the wheel the way a hard bit of glue could. <S> If you use clear or silver it should be less noticeable than caulking. <A> I decided to follow the suggestion from an mtbr thread , and ordered some of these 5mm furniture plugs . <S> My spoke holes measure ~4.5mm, so I suspect this will fit with a little encouragement (which hopefully will keep them from popping out). <S> This was partly motivated by aesthetics; I'm sure tape would work too, but this has potential to look much nicer -- especially if your rim is relatively flat <S> (non-aero <S> ) at the spoke holes. <A> Well, the reason you might seal them is to reduce the risk of puncture, not rust. <S> But rust is out of the question in any case if you're dealing with alu. <S> What do you propose to seal them with? <S> As far as I can tell there are two potential risks. <S> Second, you seal the holes now. <S> and need to remove the seals later. <S> Potentially this could be a pita. <S> As long as you factor these things in, I don't really see any harm in doing this. <S> But not really any gain, either.
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But more importantly it will help you keep out small bits of gravel that could otherwise end up rattling around inside your wheel. First, you seal them with some substance which could actually wear the tube (this would be difficult because there should be rim tape in there).
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How do I buy a used bike? Since we have a lot of questions asking about buying a used bike, I thought we could do a community wiki on how to buy used bikes as a be-all, end-all. There are a few main questions: 1) How do I check if a used bike is safe to ride ? 2) How do I assess the value of a used bike? Feel free to add others as answers, one question per answer. <Q> How do I evaluate the value of a used bike? <S> As guidelines, a few websites may be useful: <S> Craigslist <S> (See what similar bikes are going for in your area) <S> EBay <S> (Online retailer) Bicycle Blue Book <S> (Gives values for certain bikes; can be useful as a rough guideline) <S> Bikepedia <S> (Gives values for certain bikes when new, along with their original components) <S> Velobase <S> (Database of vintage cycling and marketplace) <A> How do I make sure a bike fits? <S> Bike fit is critical. <S> If the rider and the bike don't fit together properly, you'll hurt more and sooner, and rides won't be enjoyable. <S> Get it right! <S> What to do on a test ride? <S> How to make sure the bike is the right size? <S> How to make sure the bike fits when I can't ride it? <S> (buying online) How to get the saddle/seat <S> height right? <S> Should I buy a slightly too-big or too-small bike? <A> How do I see if a used bike is safe to ride? <S> We've covered this in a variety of answers. <S> (Summary) <S> Links to useful answers: <S> Safety Checks ...
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Well, the simple answer is a bike is worth as much as someone is willing to pay for it.
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Town bike intermittently harder to pedal I have a Dutch town bike with backpedal brakes ( omafiets ). I live in Amsterdam where it's flat and have checked the tires are fully inflated. Originally the bike was very easy to pedal and often it still is. However, sometimes it feels about 20-50% harder to pedal. For example, flats feel like small upslopes and long upslopes feel intolerable. I'm trying to account for the slope, wind and my own tiredness. Occasionally it feels like I turn a corner and it's suddenly easier or harder. I'm often doing the same routes with different perceived difficulty. My feeling is that something is sticking on the rear wheel. I have occasional perceived a small dragging sensation whilst pushing the bike with my hands (dismounted). My assumption is that the brake is slightly sticking. Two different bike shops have told me that this isn't possible. There is some slight side-to-side play in the wheel (about 1-2mm at a guess). First bike shop said it would be the side-to-side play, second bike shop agreed so I had them fix it. They replaced the chain, pedal attachment, rear wheel and rear axle at significant cost relative to bike value. This did not help. Recently went back and they said the wheel is loose again, suggest tightening again. Of course, I'm doubting this is the problem. I've read that cone adjustment should be done in this situation. However, my understanding is that tightening the wheel will actually make it harder to pedal - the adjustment is a trade-off between ease of rotation and stability of the wheel. Do I understand correctly? Any other ideas on what could be causing this? <Q> Are you sure you don't have a kick shift/kick back hub in the rear? <S> I had this exact problem after I bought a new, used rear wheel for my town bike. <S> At other times I'd be able to ride up the same hill! <S> I thought I was going mad, and I too thought something was broken. <S> After a while I noticed a pattern, that it was changing in "difficulty" whenever i braked, ie. backpedaled. <S> Now I love it, easy, hands-free shifting! <S> Sheldon Brown glossary page: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gloss_i-k.html#kickback <A> It could be time for the rear hub to be overhauled (btw, I love the omafiet style of bike. <S> Good memories). <S> This is not a hard procedure, and you can do it if you take your time. <S> I suggest you go to the Park website and take a look at how it's done. <S> Coaster Hub Overhaul (Pedal Brake Hub) <S> Most of the bikes I saw and serviced of this type had seen a lot of abuse and rain. <S> It wouldn't hurt to replace the bearings at the same time as you will need to remove them anyways. <S> Good luck and let us know how it turns out! <A> If the nuts holding wheel to frame are too tight it will do this. <S> Quick release has this issue a lot. <S> Beyond that it sounds like a bearing problem (repack and replace).
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A likely cause is that the grease used to pack the rear hub, and aid in the clutch engagement for drive and stopping, is worn out. Seemingly at random it would be much harder to pedal, sometimes forcing me to hop off and walk up hills. Spinning wheels while bike is upside down will show which wheel is dragging.
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Problem with chain skipping when pedaling hard If I pedal hard, i.e. while standing/taking off/going uphill, the chain skips over the cogs making a load screeching noise and my foot just sinks to the bottom position. I attempted to fix this problem so I replaced the crankset, cassette and chain with brand new Shimano Drore M590, Shimano Alivio HG400 and KMC X9 93 chain but the problem remains. I needed to replace these anyway since they are 2 years old and I had low quality components (i.e. drive side crank arm becomes vertical with pedal in bottom position). I feel like either the free wheel or tension in the back derailleur is causing the problem. I removed the front derailleur because I only use the middle chainring. I read all the other questions on this issue and they talk about the chain or the cogs being old but this does not apply since mine are brand new. What is the likely cause of the problem in my situation? How can I make sure? <Q> Since the rings, cogs and chain are new, and decent components we can safely eliminate the possibility that there is a problem with the chain grabbing the rings or cogs. <S> Here is what I suspect might be happening: <S> it's your derailleur: due to wear, damage or perhaps weakened springs. <S> Here is how: as you pedal, the chain temporarily catches in the derailleur cage . <S> You only notice this when there is significant load on the chain, like going uphill. <S> Or attaching a camera to a chain stay or seat stay to record what is going on. <S> If the derailleur is the culprit, you probably wasted money on the new crankset. <S> Two-year old rings are probably still okay, and in any case, individual rings can be replaced, not the entire crankset. <A> Had this so so many times and so far it’s always came down to the mech hanger being slightly bent, delivering the chain to the cassette slightly off causing it to be exaggerated under pressure. <S> Spent over 400 trying to fix it, then as a last resort just by chance changed the mech hanger (30 euro), it was SLIGHTLY bent like a few millimeters and that’s what was causing the whole thing. <A> On the assumption that everything was fitted properly, my first guess would be chain is too long, my second would be that derailleur adjustment is required, but this guess doesn't specifically fit your description of "hard" pedalling. <S> But these are only guesses, remember, maybe your LBS can help you some more.
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The next thing that happens is that, since the chain is not moving through the derailleur, the entire derailleur is pulled by the chain and rotated backwards, which basically peels/unwraps the chain from the cassette until it loses grip. Under light load, you just need one or two teeth of grip, if the chain and cassette are new. There is no substitute for having someone watch what is going on.
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Something clicks while pedaling My road bike with square taper Chorus crankset has developed a click when pedaling. The click happens always in the same pedal position, right crank forward, on both chainrings. Since the noise started, I have reinstalled the cranks, tightened chainring bolts, and replaced the seatpost, pedals and wheels. The bottom bracket rotates smoothly when cranks are not installed or without chain. The click only occurs when pedaling with force, and happens when standing up so it very probably is not the saddle or seat post. The most mysterious part is that the click goes away in rain or even humid weather. Any ideas? EDIT: Since this got a "popular question" badge and duplicate, situation update: Since I posted the question, I have switched pedals a couple of times and replaced the chainrings. The click remains the same. <Q> A few things to do to isolate the problem to the bottom bracket: <S> Make sure you also hear the noise when standing up (Yes, I know you replaced the seatpost, but it might be the seat. <S> Maybe.) <S> When you pedal hard, you also exert more force on the handlebar. <S> See if you hear anything. <S> A while back I had a frame with a crack in it, and I'd hear a creaking sound when pedaling hard, always from the same pedal position. <S> But, a clicking sound like you're describing probably wouldn't come from a frame fracture. <S> Bottom brackets (especially cartridge units) can make strange sounds when they're starting to wear out (even if they feel fine). <S> That's what my money's on. <A> OJS: <S> I like your spunk. <S> I made sure to read your post twice <S> so I didn't ask questions you already answered. <S> That said, what is the make/model/year of your bike. <S> Whether it is alloy or carbon, cartridge or press-fit and its age makes a difference. <S> OK, You describe it as a click, not a creak nor a sensation of popping. <S> There appears to be no feeling of a pop in the pedal stroke from what you say. <S> It happens near maximum torque on the drivetrain. <S> I have a couple of ideas. <S> Pedals 1)You mentioned that it goes away in the rain. <S> I love riding in the rain, and there is one thing that will kill a pedal quickly, is rain. <S> You also mentioned that the noise goes away in the rain. <S> Perhaps there is water intrusion into the pedal spindle/bearing <S> and it has caused some displacement and degradation of the grease. <S> Rain comes, and it acts as a lubricant for a short time, getting rid of your creak. <S> If you don't, spray a little WD-40 into the spindle area and see what happens. <S> You can regrease most pedals, some are easier than others. <S> My money goes here. <S> Pedals 2)Cleats will occasionally creak against the pedal itself, and I have had one make a click/creak combo. <S> Make sure your cleats are spotless, as are the pedals and give it a whirl. <S> There is cleat lube, but you can rub an old candle on the cleat/pedal surface if you have one. <S> Kinda doubt this one though. <S> Pedals 3)Re-reinstall the pedal, <S> but with this time use plumber's/teflon wrap over the pedal bolt. <S> It will act to fill any void areas, and prevents squeaking and seizing over time. <S> Same as above on probability. <S> Rear Wheel)Sounds obvious, but take the rear wheel off, add the tiniest amount of lube to the dropouts, reinstall and ride. <S> I've had what I swore were <S> bad BB turn out to be a rear wheel grinding away at the drops during high torque. <S> BB1)If <S> it is a BB, it will only increase over time. <S> You aren't feeling any pop <S> so it is an irritant at this point. <S> From what has been said, I would be slightly surprised if this was the problem. <S> Please let us know the year, make, model and BB type. <S> That will help immensely. <A> I had this problem recently, and shortly after being unable to diagnose it, started getting serious chain suck. <S> Most likely your chainring teeth have worn down into the valleys and the click is it trying to grab the chain. <A> I had a similar problem. <S> ONe click each time the left pedal was at the low position. <S> CHanged bottom bracket - no luck. <S> Lubed seat and handle bar - no luck. <S> Thought maybe if i switch the pedals that if the noise is on the other side then it would be the pedal. <S> Well the left pedal was so tightly on that I knew once I got it off <S> then added a drop of oil and putting it back on nicely that it would be better and it was. <S> Now no noise. <S> Hope this helps <A> I don't know if this helps <S> but I had a similar problem I tapped the crank arm in dear <S> I say it a block of wood with a hammer (one sharp blow). <S> In my opinion the arm wasn't seated properly. <A> It seems that last generation of high end square taper Campagnolo had small bearings that were notorious for this. <S> It was not the cups with threads, because I could find only a BB cartridge for different standard and reused the old cups. <S> The strange thing is that when uninstalled, the bearings feel completely smooth.
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If you have another known good set of pedals, swap them out. In the end it turned out that it was bottom bracket bearings. Try yanking the handlebar every which way while stopped. Solutions: old chain, new chainrings, or if individual chainrings aren't economical, a new crankset and bb.
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Preventing staining of clothes when carrying bike Is there any reliable way to carry a bike (of non-insignificant weight) without ruining the clothes one's wearing? I live in a part of the world where millions of people ride in plain clothes every day and also do "mundane" stuff like carry groceries on their bike on a 5-10 minute trip. For this reason, I'd like to know how to carry a bicycle without ruining my clothes in the case that I absolutely need to carry it. <Q> It might be a facetious answer on the face, but seriously - why are you carrying your bike at all? <S> Do carry a working mini-tube, pump, two tyre levers and whatever you need to get the wheel completely off if its not a QR (ring spanner, perhaps allen key, maybe special tool for IGHs etc) <S> Some people like disposable gloves for the hand protection. <S> Replace the tube, clear the cause, and ride on. <S> Remember to patch the tube at home, or replace it if its dead. <S> If you truely have to walk it is to simply wheel it. <S> Take extra care rolling over kerbs/curbs or any other edges. <S> Any road bike under 15 kg with clincher tyres will be okay rolling on the tyre for 5 km. <S> You've done something where it just won't roll. <S> If its the front, haul the front wheel off the ground in a vertical wheelie and roll it on the rear. <S> Hold the handlebars and use the rear brake if you need to. <S> 3b. <S> Use your left hand for steering or put your left hand on the saddle and push it with "no-hands" steering <S> You're on the bike's left away from the chain. <S> Both wheels are buggered, and it won't roll at all? <S> Cyclocross carry, which is either like this: or with the shoulder further back in the triangle, and the right hand on the fork or wheel rim or through to the bars. <S> These ones needs shoulder padding pretty quick, so whip out something cloth or a newspaper. <S> Note all carrying should be done from the non-drive side of the bike. <S> If you get sore, swap sides but spin the bike as well <S> so you're still on the non-drive side and now the bike is facing backward. <A> I carry my 29er mountain bike all the time because I go up a few flights of stairs most days. <S> What works best for me is grabbing by the tube in front of the seat and lifting my hand to my shoulder and holding it in my hand. <S> I can then keep it away from my clothing. <S> The bike usually just hangs from the hand, or the hand and the elbow sometimes if it swings in a bit, the elbow keeps it away from my clothes. <S> But normally it just hangs out to the side. <S> If I'm negotiating a turn I use the handle bars with my other hand to turn the wheel appropriately if it's in front of me. <S> Or to steady the bike if it's swinging a bit. <S> 3-4 flights of stairs is about all I do on one hand, then I change hands and the bike faces backwards. <S> My body is always the other side of the chain. <S> Sorry, couldn't get a prettier model at short notice. <A> What I've been finding works is to stand on the side of the bike opposite the drive train, and reach down over the top tube of the bike to the drive-side chainstay, and use that as a handle when picking it up. <S> With the weight of panniers it might only be good for short distances though.
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If its the rear that is wedged (and this is much more likely) then slip right hand fingers through the top of the wheel and carry it just off the ground. The sidewalls of your tyre will be okay for a bit as long as you're not riding it.
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For Biking do Sneakers offer any advantage over Sandals? I live in a tropical country. We have only two seasons. A rainy season that lasts for 4 months and a summer lasting the remaining 8 months. The maximum and minimum temperatures are 36 and 20 degrees Celsius respectively. I ride my hybrid cycle almost every day for exercise. The sneakers get wet during the rainy season and the feet get too warm during summer. Therefore, I find it comfortable and convenient to wear waterproof sports sandals with back straps when riding my bike. My question is do sneakers (sports shoes) offer any special advantages when biking over sandals? Thank you for your advice. <Q> 1 advantage is in an accident <S> it's harder to rip a toenail off. <A> The late Sheldon Brown, whose advice is treasured on this web site, wore sandals in all seasons, including winter in New England (snow and ice). <S> He wore sandals that had SPD cleats on the bottom. <S> Details are on this page from his web site. <A> For commuting in warm wet conditions I found sports sandals ideal before (switching to clipless). <S> A couple of things are worth noting though: If you push down hard on the pedal, some soles curl down towards the pedal. <S> Do this on a tight bend or with a low bottom bracket and the sole can brush the ground. <S> It's not really dangerous, but rather disconcerting. <S> Stones flicked up by the front wheel really sting if they hit your toes. <S> Some sandals have slippy soles; others don't fasten to your feet well enough to not slide around. <S> I went for somehting like this random ebay hit which didn't slide around on my foot even when wet, and was as good as trainers for gripping the pedals.
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I would say that as long as the sandals don't slip on the pedals more than the sneakers do, then there are no advantages to the sneakers.
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Why do men's bicycles have a top tube while women's bicycles don't? Bicycles intended for men have a top tube that always hits me on that embrassing part when I brake. Conversely, women's bikes often don't have a top tube. Why is this? <Q> Frames designed for women do have that part - its called a top tube. <S> Historically women wore skirts, so a lower frame in the middle made it easier to mount and dismount, and was less likely to accidentally show an ankle. <S> This picture shows a modern "woman's frame" with the top tube paralleling the downtube, and attaching to the seat tube lower down. <S> Positives: <S> Skirts <S> Ease of mounting <S> Negatives: <S> Bike is flexier because of fewer triangles Bike is built heavier to reduce flex <S> Another frame designed for with these positives is the Mixte frame, where the top tube is replaced by two separate tubes similar to chainstays and seatstays. <S> These pass around the seattube and terminate at the headtube and the rear dropout, increasing the stiffness of the bike. <S> They're still heavier than a normal Diamond Frame bike. <S> Here's a photo of a Peugot showing the twin tubes. <S> Finally - there's absolutely nothing wrong with a woman riding a DF bike frame. <S> The main differences now are about proportions, not whether the rider wears a skirt. <S> There are situations where a man fits a "woman's frame" better than a "man's frame" <A> Back in the day, women primarily wore dresses, and getting the dress over the top tube was difficult and awkward. <S> Although the top tube shouldn't be hitting you in that "embarrassing part" when you're braking, regardless of it being a men's bike or women's. <A> Women's bicycles have the front tube designed to curve down for their skirts, else while moving fast against the air may cause embarrassment whilst in public.
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So the women's bike was developed with a slanted or sloped top tube so women could step though with their dresses and ride without their dresses coming up.
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Is the fit wrong on my road bike or is my body too stiff / inflexible? I am very confused about how to get a correct fit on a road bike. I am female, 5'5", average weight and proportions, and have a 31" inseam. Recently, I decided to buy a Specialized Ruby after trying out my friend's bike and noticing how smoothly it rides. I was told by one LBS that I should ride a size 51cm or 48cm bike but I feel stretched out. They said it's because I'm not used to the position. When I look at myself in a mirror on the bike with my torso making a 45 degree angle from the horizontal I don't feel comfortable. When I ride with that position on the demo bike I feel stretched out and struggling to support my torso at that angle though my arms don't lock. Another LBS fitter is convinced that I need a much smaller bike and has tried to fit me on the 44cm. My arms do have a slight bend and I am sitting more upright and don't feel stretched out as much. So, my question is--who is right? I am also thinking about trying out road racing, so getting the correct fit is crucial. <Q> Honestly, whichever feels most comfortable to you is the one you should go with. <S> Take both of them for as long a demo ride as the shop will let you and don't pay attention to how the fit "looks" in the mirror. <S> Whichever frame you decide on, be sure you get a fitting from a reputable source - ask other cyclists you know to see who has the best reputation in the area. <A> This answer expands on my comment <S> Sounds like a general strength issue to me. <S> Especially since you have mentioned neck discomfort after 30 to 40 mile (50 to 65 km) rides. <S> I think you should get the smaller bike, making sure <S> the seat height is correct. <S> The correct seat height is also dependant on your strength. <S> As you get stronger the seat can begin to feel too low. <S> If this occurs, raise it by very small amounts (1 or 2 mm). <S> Be vigilant about any knee discomfort or pain; it's a sign that the seat is the wrong height for you. <S> Talk to your shop guy about it immediately. <S> The smaller bike will also be easier for you to control at this early stage of your cycling career. <S> You can extend the life of your bike by switching to a longer headstem if the bike starts feeling too small. <S> You already felt that the smaller bike was better for you, and a couple of answers here support that view. <S> It's important that you feel you've made a sound choice. <S> It helps to have confidence in your equipment. <S> But I recommend talking to the guy who recommends that smaller bike and asking questions such as <S> The other shop suggests a bigger bike. <S> Why is this smaller one the best for me? <S> As I get stronger will my fit change? <S> If I feel the bike is too small what would they do for you? <S> Happy cycling. <A> My partner of the roughly the same size had similar fitting issue with the Ruby, tried a different bike and found that more comfortable. <S> The 48cm felt a little too small for her and the 51cm too large. <S> I think a 44cm would be too small for you in the long run, and would probably go with the 48cm <S> but it's impossible to be sure without actually seeing you on the bike, and knowing the type of riding <S> you want to do. <S> If you get the impression that he's just a salesman, who last rode a bike was 30 years ago, and he's just interested in making the sale <S> - then any form of initial discomfort is just going to niggle at you. <S> If you trust the person, they seem to know what they are talking about, and can assess your strength and flexibility, then you're more likely to adapt to the new position. <S> If a shop doesn't actually put you on the bike, won't make adjustments to the saddle position, seat height, and handlebar rotation then personally I would run a mile and go elsewhere. <S> If they have none in stock, then any reputable dealer should be prepared to order one in and replace it if it doesn't fit well. <S> As a side note: although fit is much more important, be aware that on smaller frames it can be impossible to fit two water bottles. <A> All bikes geometry are different. <S> So only fools will use "bikes cm/inches" for bike fitting. <S> The best reference are "Effective Top Tube". <S> The straight horizontal length from the head tube to seat tube. <S> The rest are adjustment. <S> Comfortable posture can be fixed easily by raising the handlebar stem or replaced with an adjustable stem (because most of the time , LBS will cut it TOO SHORT to make it looks "cool", instead of using lots of spacer to maintain margin for unknown client) .While <S> the seatpost can be raise and lower depends on fitness and requirement. <S> For a seasonal bikers, a 45 degree torso angle are insane. <S> Just recall my first fitting that didn't gone right : because LBS assume "correct pro postures should fit for a all typical client". <S> After reading sheldon brown blog, I realise <S> LBS absurdness(perhaps lazy to think for the client), I get an adjustable stem and raise the handlebar height by 5cm, lower the seat by 1 cm, and most of the pain gone. <S> These two parts heights re-adjusted whenever the body feels ready.
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As you develop strength, a larger bike will fit you better. The main thing really is to find somebody to fit you that you have confidence in.
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A pin punctured my tyre. Should I only replace the inner tube, or patch the outer, rubber tyre? Today I managed to run over a flat heat board pin, and my tyre got punctured. I will change my inner tube tomorrow, because it's not that expensive and I find it easier than patching it up. My question is: Should I be concerned that the outer rubber tyre was damaged? If so, would applying a tyre patch on the interior of the outer rubber tyre do any good? Or would it make things even worse for the new tube? My fear is that the hole means a weak spot in my tyre, and that the tube would break. Thanks for your help! <Q> that being said, if you patch your tube and inflate the tire (the one with the puncture) you want to make sure the tube is not exposed through the puncture hole. <S> If you need to ride and the tyre is questionable... an old trick is to put a dollar bill or power bar wrapper on the inside of the tire over the puncture hole... then install the tube and inflate. <S> The pressure from the inflated tube will be distributed across the wrapper resulting in an extra barrier keeping the tube from protruding. <S> Good Luck. <A> If you purely have a puncture by a pin, small nail, or fragment of glass, and the hole in the tire is just a puncture and not a slit, then there is no need to do anything special with the tire -- just put in a fresh (new or repaired) tube and go. <S> You do need to be concerned if the puncture somehow causes a cut in the tire, with a dimension of more than about 1/4" to 3/8" (maybe 6-10mm), as that can allow the tube to balloon out through the cut, resulting in a blow-out. <S> (The higher the tire pressure, the smaller the cut that can cause this hazard. <S> One needs to be especially wary with high-pressure road tires.) <S> If there is a sizeable cut in the tire, you need to somehow "boot" it if you are not going to replace the tire. <S> Booting is addressed in this answer . <A> I'd say, there are three degrees of tire damage: <S> Pointlike damage like your pin can be ignored entirely. <S> The tire will work the same as before the damage. <S> Cuts large enough for you to bend the rubber away far enought to be able to shine a light through the puncture. <S> Such a tire won't fail immediately if you reuse it, but it may fail sooner than you like due to some small stones working their way into the pre-punched hole, and then proceed to destroy the tube inside. <S> Cuts large enough that they weaken the inner structure of the tire, allowing the pressure in the tube to push the hole open. <S> Such a tire needs immediate replacement. <S> Of course, the lines between these three cases are a bit blurry, but I think this is a useful classification.
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The size of the puncture really dictates whether a new tire is in order...
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What ingredients are necessary in a sports drink when you must drink a lot? Comments to this answer say e.g., Can't stress enough how ... important it is to drink more than just water ... (and other people's comments then ask for details about the drink's contents). The context is in answer to this question, How to ride when the weather is hot? -- to which people answer that it's no longer adequate to just drink water. There's a related question here Formula for Homemade sports drinks but I don't find it informative. My question is, what's the minimum ingredient list for a "sports drink", on a day when you should be drinking several liters? For example, when I get home I drink water mixed with a cheap fruit syrup (i.e. some kind of sugar) plus table salt (i.e. sodium chloride). Is that sufficient? Móż commented , Seriously, electrolyte drinks are just sugar, salt and flavour. Two of those things are very, very cheap. Another comment was, Any sports drink powder will do. Basically sugar and electrolytes. Upvotes suggest people think this comment is important: Make sure you get a real sports drinks, not lollie water sold as sport drink Is salt sufficient as an electrolyte or is it important to have more (e.g. calcium, potassium, and/or I don't know what) during a ride? What about other ingredients (proteins, amino acids, even fats, or whatever), do you suppose any of those are essential? Beneficial? Or should I take it that they serve to differentiate a store-bought product and maybe justify a high cost? I get slightly inconsistent results from looking at the ingredients. Two of the products people recommended in comments were "Hammer" and "Rynopower". Hammer for example has approximately (to within a factor of 2) equal quantities of each electrolyte: Sodium (as Sodium Chloride) 80mg 4%Chloride (as Sodium Chloride) 120mg 4%Calcium (as Chelate) 100mg 10%Magnesium (as Chelate) 50mg 12%Potassium (as Chelate) 50mg 1%Manganese (as Chelate) 500mcg 25% Or : Calcium (as Calcium Carbonate, Calcium Chloride) 100mg 10%Magnesium (as Magnesium Oxide) 50mg 13%Manganese (as Manganese Gluconate) 3mg 150%Chloride (as Calcium Chloride) 60mg 2%Sodium (as Sodium Bicarbonate) 200mg 8%Potassium (as Potassium Bicarbonate) 100mg 3% Whereas Rynopower has much more sodium: Sodium 333 mgPotassium 85 mgCalcium 40 mgMagnesium 24 mg The latter suggests to me, rightly or wrongly, that Potassium, Calcium, and Magnesium are trace elements which don't need to be replenished in a big way en route (as long as your regular diet include adequate calcium); whereas the former implies that you need as much extra of those other elements/salts as you do sodium. <Q> In the past I was used to buy sport drinks - like Gatorade - spending a lot of money and always in doubt about their efficiency. <S> But my sport Nutritionist suggested me a simple, natural and efficient recipe you can make at home for a tasty (and really cheap <S> ) sport drink: 500 ml water; 2 tablespoon sugar; 1 teaspoon salt; Juice from one orange; <S> Just mix all ingredients in your water bottle and go cycling. <S> I start to drink always after one hour of cycling - when our body needs salt and some carbohydrates - and it does his job even on endurance races like Audax events. <A> When answering this question, we all need to keep in mind how hot it is, and how hard you're riding. <S> Unless it is both very hot, and you are riding very hard, then you will be just fine with only water. <S> And you'll only need to drink when you're thirsty. <S> The answers and comments in that other answer mostly all assume you are riding in extreme heat or racing. <S> Considering that only a small segment of people are doing either of those, much less both, it makes no sense to follow those pieces of advice all the time for all conditions. <A> Mostly it's about replacing salts (more than just sodium chloride, but also salts of potassium and magnesium, for instance), and of course water, that you lose as part of any exercise. <S> There might also be some sugar, to help maintain energy levels, although the tabs I use are sugar-free (they expect you to eat or ingest energy some other way). <A> Note that there's a big gap between what's necessary and what's useful. <S> If you're drinking a lot you probably only need <S> a small amount of NaCl/table salt. <S> But drinking salty water isn't much fun, so you might be tempted to drink less of it that you should. <S> If you're doing that, why not make a "proper" electrolyte drink. <S> I'm a big fan of DIY based on just sugar and salt, I expect I get enough of everything else by eating fruit and other stuff. <S> I used to add a tiny bit of potassium chloride because I got a few grams from a lab once, but when that ran out I did the maths and decided that $10 worth of that had the same potassium content as $10 worth of dried banananas <S> and I like dried bananananananas more. <S> The LiveStrong site has a similar "recipe" : Rehydration Project. <S> Mix 1 liter of water with 8 teaspoons of sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt. <S> Half a cup of orange juice or half of a mashed banana can be added to add potassium. <S> Locally I can buy "Oral Rehydration Salts" in sachets for a prices somewhere between cordial powder and energy drink. <S> WHAT IS IN restore O.R.S. SACHETS? <S> Each restore <S> O.R.S. sachet contains glucose 3.56 g, sodium acid citrate 530 mg, sodium chloride <S> 470 mg and potassium chloride 300 mg. <S> restore O.R.S. is a pleasant tasting orange flavour. <S> Livestrong also say: If commercial preparations are available, these should be used as errors in formulations of homemade versions can occur <S> But I'm not sure quite how you could make an error mixing sugar, salt and water. <S> If you can't get it all to dissolve, add more water. <S> If you can't taste it, add more powder. <S> It's not rocket surgery. <S> Also, I often get my salt from hot chips, because when I'm cycle touring I generally have lunch in town and buy take-away chips (they're called fries in the US, I believe). <S> That gets me cheap fat, starch and salt in one tasty package (because on long tours I also burn a lot of energy <S> so cheap calories are all good). <S> I would rather each junk food than buy energy drinks, even in town.
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Hence it's probably useful to add sugar and flavour. The stuff other than water your body needs you will get through food soon enough.
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New Bike + Disc Brake Shuddering: Cause and Fix? I recently bought a new bike (cx steel frame, carbon fork, disc brakes) that I am using as a commuter/all-rounder bike. My question is similar to questions that have already been asked concerning disc brake shuddering/pulsing ( here and here ), but subtly different: Will skipping the bedding in process lead to shuddering when braking? If so, will attempting the bedding in process now fix the issue? I am new to the world of disc brakes and foolishly didn't learn about bedding the pads until searching for resolutions to my issue. I have ridden my bike for ~200 miles so far, and the past 50 miles is when the shuddering in the front brake became noticeable. Brake Details: I have Hayes CX Expert mechanical disc brakes and a carbon fork. <Q> Bedding in brake pads impregnates the rotor surface with material. <S> There is a particular process to do it because you want a good even layer. <S> If skipped, the will still get "bedded in" but possibly unevenly, causing vibrations and ultimately a shudder like you have described as the pads skip over these slightly thicker portions of the rotor. <S> The proper method has guidelines of how fast and how hard to brake which has been proven to help keep the bedded layer smooth. <S> Also if not bedded in and then ridden EXTREMELY hard brand new, meaning some downhill action,it is possible (but unlikely) to get hot spots much like car brake rotors can get when super heated beyond their intended use. <S> Their are several ways to handle this situation, there is a resurfacing paste product called Squeeel Out that works decent, or you can resurface them yourself which generally works pretty well. <S> To do so you will sand both the pads and the rotor surface, and then follow the initial bed in procedure. <S> When sanding the pads, it is easiest to lay a piece of sandpaper on a hard flat surface and drag the pad around in circular motions. <S> Sand the pad directly doesn't work as well because you don't get an even sanding. <S> The rotor can be done a similar way, or by laying the rotor on a flat surface and hand sanding with a sanding block. <S> You don't have to take a ton of material off, just remove the surface contaminants. <S> After sanding the rotor clean with alcohol and allow to dry. <S> Some people would recommend buy a new rotor and/or set of pads <S> but i have had good luck with saving them the ways mentioned above. <S> While you have the rotor off you can also check that it is true, but that shouldn't be an issue with it being new, but then again i have seen them come out of the package slightly bent. <A> Bedding in simply happens as you use the bike, or more accurately, as you use the brakes, just like the bedding in process for the brakes on a car, where you get warned to to do any sudden braking within the first x miles. <S> Once this has happened, braking will be more consistent. <A> Check your headset as part of your efforts. <S> A loose headset can cause shudders, even with rim brakes. <S> Also, check the general adjustments of all the 'front parts'... <S> Hub bearings, spokes, stem, rotor bolt torque, Caliper bolts, and check the fork for damage as well. <S> (damage isn't likely, IMHO). <S> If that doesn't address your problem, I'd suggest doing a run-out measurement on the rotor and compare to your manufacturer's requirements. <S> Also, clean <S> the disk, trash/oil on it can cause problems too. <S> The pads can do a wonderful job on this, but sometimes they need help... especially w.r.t. oil/grease. <S> What really occurs during bedding-in is not important, nor is how you do it... <S> what is important is that the rotor is cleaned and the caliper+pads get a final micro-alignment to the rotor (via the initial wearing of the pads). <S> Once this micro-alignment happens, the braking should be very consistent... <S> which is why some shops may want to 'bed your pads' for you. <S> Any material 'deposited' on the rotors will be quickly removed as dust by the pads anyway.
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It's about depositing a layer of brake pad onto the rotor. Also, make sure the QR is tight if present, and if not, check the front wheel bolt torque. Skipping the "proper" bedding in process can do this yes.
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Maxing out on gears I have an older specialized bike from 2001 that I ride and race on with a gearing of Shimano 53/39 and 9-speed cassette 12/26. On my regular weekly rides I end up maxing out on my gears and can't get any more speed. How do I get more speed out of the bike with only 9 gears? I don't know if an 11/? cassette will make a difference, if it is possible to get a bigger chainring, or if my technology is so old I should just get a new bike? <Q> Your technology is up to date. <S> 53x12 is basically still the standard for road bikes today. <S> If you want to increase the gearing, your best bet would be to install an 11x cassette, if not a Sram 10x. <S> That said... <S> If you are regularly finding your 53x12 too low it means one of three things: <S> You are mashing (standing up in a heavy gear) instead of spinning (sitting down in an lighter gear) <S> You are a speed addict who wants to go even faster on downhills <S> You should be racing <S> If it's one of the first two cases, you shouldn't upgrade your gears. <S> Change your behavior instead. <A> An 11 speed rear cassette gives you more linear gaps between gears. <S> It doesn't necessarily give you higher or lower gears. <S> There are bigger chainrings than 53 tooth, but they're rare, expensive, and tend to be single-speed track bikes. <S> There are smaller cassettes than 12 tooth, 11 is the lowest you can get normally, and some folding bikes can go down to 9 tooth. <S> Downside here is mechanical losses start increasing fast. <A> I found 9 speed Shimanos in 11/21 and 11/23 easily. <S> I didn't find any road cassettes that had a lower low gear. <S> I also found mountain bike versions with much larger low gears, but you probably need a new derailleur for them.
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Changing to an 11 cog on the rear will certainly give you a higher gear.
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Single disc brake front of SS bike? Just finished building a gorgeous commuter from a fixed track frame. I've got some nice fat 700x28 tires, a SRAM automatix hub in the rear, and a disc compatible front hub. The frame has mounts for rim brakes but lacks any elegant way to route the back brake cable across the top tube. I've currently got it wrapped up with some fabric handlebar tap and may end up making a nice stitched leather top tube protector BUT I'm super curious...what if I skipped the back brake all together and just did ONE disc brake up front? Obviously I'll have to perfect a nice progressive squeeze so as not to go over the front and I'll definitely have to get used to shifting my weight back a bit when I brake (especially on hills) but what other down sides are there to this? Cheers! <Q> Like the late great Sheldon Brown wrote in his article , I use the front brake alone most of the time. <S> But there are great reasons to have a rear brake in addition to the front brake: <S> Slippery pavement (wet weather, etc). <S> If the front wheel skids, the rider will almost always crash. <S> The rider can often recover from a rear-wheel skid, so if conditions are slippery, I try to use the rear brake and give myself plenty of time to stop. <S> Leverage. <S> When I have my hands on top of the brake hoods, I don't have as much leverage as when I'm grabbing the brake levers from the drops. <S> When I have to make a sudden emergency stop from the hoods, I can stop better when I use both brakes. <S> Braking while turning. <S> If the rider tries to use the front brake while turning sharply, that might cause the front wheel to skid. <S> Sometimes braking with both brakes is better in a sharp turn. <S> Also if the rear wheel skids, the rider might be able to recover, or the crash might be more gentle than a crash caused by a front-wheel skid. <S> I generally try to avoid braking while turning sharply, but sometimes I have no choice, if for instance I want to avoid hitting the child who ran onto the bike path without looking. <S> Equipment failure. <A> Generally you want at least two independent braking systems for a bike (in some places this is a legal requirement). <S> This usually means one front brake and one rear brake, though some people find resisting on a fixie as a valid rear brake. <S> There isn't really a difference in using a front disc or a front rim brake on a road bike -- they're independent of the rear drivetrain, and how well they work relative to each other depends on the rim brake/disc brake choices and the riding conditions. <S> On bikes intended for the road, rim brakes are generally more than adequate when properly set up. <S> Modulating the brake application is key with any brake choice. <S> Note that rim brakes are often cheaper in net. <S> Obviously, you need to have a disc fork and disc-ready wheel to use the disc brake option, and you need a fork which can mount a rim brake and a rim-brake ready wheel (i.e. has a brake track -- the metal place where the brake hits) for a rim brake. <S> I'd personally probably go with a rim brake just on cost, but to each their own. <S> This being said, the Automatix hub is not a fixed gear hub, so if you only have a front brake, you really should have a rear brake (rim brake, disc brake, coaster brake hub, etc.) <S> -- I would not recommend running just a front brake in this case. <S> I'd much rather keep my teeth rather than not having a brake cable running to the back. <S> You can also get the Automatix coaster brake version. <S> As the other answer of rclocher3 said, depending on riding conditions, you may want to have a rear brake (not just failure). <A> The only thing the other answers miss is that a rear brake is a heck of a lot of fun to have and adds a whole different dimension to handling and maneuverability. <S> Obviously it helps stop in an emergency, but it also gives you other options in an emergency, allowing you to spin the bike in a skid, or slip through tight spots where you otherwise would not have the necessary angle. <S> I wouldn't be typing right now if my back brake hadn't saved my life on more than one occasion first on motorbikes, and more recently on bicycle <S> so I'm unsure if it's normal for cyclists to skid around.
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If there is some problem with the front wheel or the front brake, having a rear brake can be very handy.
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Rubber on wall mounted bike hooks is wearing away. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched? Vinyl covered wall mounted bike hooks coating is wearing away due to use. What can I use to cover them so my wheels don't get scratched? Using These type of hooks: <Q> @rclocher3's electrical tape is the easier way to go, but I often use strips of old tube to wrap things of this nature. <S> To keep the wrap in place I dab some vulcanizing fluid hither and thither along the underside. <S> This saves electrical tape for electrical things, is perhaps a bit more rugged than tape, and also provides fodder for people who would mock me on stackexchange. <A> I've used some heat shrink in the past for things like this, it's used in situations to replace electrical tape. <S> Usually, I use a soldering iron to heat it up after getting it in place, but a hair dryer might also work <S> but it'd take a little longer though. <A> When the orange rubber padding dried up and cracked away on my guitar stand, I peeled it off and replaced it with clear, PVC hose of a similar diameter, plugging the hose ends with the original plugs. <S> It provides good cushioning. <S> PVC is the same thing as what is already on the hook, namely vinyl. <S> The word "vinyl", when it refers to a material, is usually just a short name for polyvinyl chloride (PVC). <S> PVC hose is an easy way to effectively get a really thick vinyl coating onto a steel rod instantly, without any dipping or painting. <S> Because some of the curves are rather tight, the hose inner diameter should be generously larger than the hook's diameter. <S> The extra width, thickness and air gaps between the hose and the hook will also provide better cushioning than the original coating, letting you be more abrupt in your movements when you hang the bike or take it down. <S> It doesn't specifically have to be PVC. <S> I chose it for that guitar stand because it's durable: it will last long without drying up and cracking like the original covering. <S> Being transparent, it also looks kind of good on that particular guitar stand, over its chrome tubing. <S> Tip: if pulling hose onto the hook gets a little difficult, in spite of good sizing, a dab of vaseline will help. <A> There is a liquid sold in hardware stores that is advertised as being a fast and easy way to make a rubbery coating for a tool handle: just dip the tool into the liquid and let it dry. <S> In the US it's called "Plasti Dip". <S> You might try that. <S> Personally I think I'd just wrap the hooks tightly with two or three layers of electrical tape; the tape stays put better if you cut the tape with scissors rather than stretching the tape to break it. <S> Electrical tape is sold in many colors these days, so you could match the color fairly closely if you or your significant other is picky about such things ;) <A> The obvious answer to me is (old) handlebar tape!
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I originally used electrical tape - the "rubbery-ness" of the tape was quite appealing as it stopped things slipping, but it went gooey after a few months.
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Normal for derailleur to make noises? I have a giant anyroad 1 2015. It has this as componentsCrankset Shimano Tiagra, 34/50Cassette Shimano Tiagra 11x34, 10-speed That is 7 cogs in the cassette, and 2 cogs on the crankset. Is it normal for the derailleur to make noise when the chain is on the smallest cogs? It also happens a bit when the front derailleur is on the smallest cog, and the rear one is on the second-smallest. Yes - I understand you're not supposed to do this - your chain should try not to twist. My question is this - is this normal? Or is it just a poorly installed/adjusted derailleur? My rationale is that it should be 'silent' on any combination of gears since the bike was built to do this. <Q> Is the question is it normal for a it to make noise when cross-chaining from smallest to smallest which you're not suppose to do? <S> Yes, but by doing so you are putting more stress on the chain and cogs, it is bad for your drive train and can result in dropping a chain or mucking up your gears faster than normal. <S> It is likely making noise because it is rubber or grinding on the derailleur or chain set. <S> The bike was not made to do that, you said yourself that you know you are not suppose to do it. <S> " <S> My car sounds like crap when i run it with zero oil in the engine.. is this normal?" <A> Drive trains make some noise. <S> The rear derailleur has little wheels which turn and the ability to vibrate a bit (these noises can increase with age of derailleur, or if you've damaged it by hitting it) while the chain sometimes rubs on the front derailleur. <S> The chain can make some noise if its not running perfectly aligned. <S> Bent chainrings can also cause some noise. <S> Badly rusted chains can also be noisy (especially if they skip due to rust). <S> This is by design -- the derailleurs have an operating point which is good (e.g. when not cross chaining) and when you deviate from it, you get some noise. <S> Other sources of noise in the drivetrain can be in the bottom bracket or the hub/wheels. <S> In short, don't run absurd combinations except for service (small front/small back being one), and make sure your derailleurs are properly adjusted. <S> See this link for rear derailleur adjustment <S> (also hanger alignment if you've crashed) and this one for front derailleur adjustment. <S> From what it sounds like, you're having issues when cross-chaining, and in this case, noise is normal. <A> Assuming there noise is coming from the chain rubbing against the rear derailleur, it is likely just poorly installed, I have a triple crankset instead of a double <S> and I can hit most of my gears without having any noise, but the tuning was certainly a little finicky. <S> A double crank has a smaller width that the chain travels in the front in comparison to my triple, and my chain only rubs my derailleur on at most two of my gears, <S> so you're should be able to run smoother than that. <S> Any noise outside of the normal means you're losing energy to something, which means you'll be working hard than you need to which is never good <S> , I'd get it looked at/try and adjust it yourself.
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If you cross-chain, such as using the big front chainring with the big rear cog or the small front chainring with the smallest rear cog, the chain runs at an extreme angle and likely there will be some noise at least from the front derailleur since the chain will likely rub (you can "trim" the front derailleur for some adjustment with friction shifters).
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