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Which traffic light do I have to follow? There is one situation in Bonn, Germany, where the buses have their own lane (right one) and the cars are separate (left lane). The cars have a regular traffic light (red, yellow, green) and the buses have their special kind (white bars, — and | ). It looks like this: The interesting thing is that the cyclist are supposed to take the bus lane, so they are on the right lane. One can see that right after the traffic light there is a dashed line parallel to the road that marks the bike area on the road. The traffic light obviously aids the buses and cars merge again to a single lane. As a cyclist, I am not really sure what to do: I could abide the car traffic light. It is the traffic light that I have been taught to read in school (elementary school, actually) and is the official one for car drivers as well. However, when the car traffic light is green, I have a harder time merging with the cars. Use the bus traffic light because it is in my lane. It make also most sense since the traffic light is for merging the two lanes. But I cannot really read the traffic light, I just assume that the three lights correspond to red, yellow, and green. If a bus was right behind me, he would have to pass me if I waited for the car traffic light to switch to green again. This doesn't make any sense, I should just free up the bus/bike lane. Ignore both lights. In every case I can just slowly merge with the car lane as I see fit. Usually one of the lights is on “Go”. Every time I pass this place, I am a bit uneasy whether I am doing the right thing. I just carefully watch for traffic and merge with the car lane when there aren't any cars around. I'd like to know what the correct behavior for this situation would be. <Q> I received an answer from the traffic guidance department of the city. <S> They told that I can either ride on the car lane (left) and then use the regular car traffic lane. <S> If I take the bus lane (right), I do not have to stop at any light at all. <S> There is no cycle traffic light on the right post because cyclists on the car lane then might interpret that as their light for the left lane as well and get in conflict with a bus on the bus lane. <A> If you're required to be in the bus lane, then the signals for that lane would apply. <S> Otherwise you could be stopped waiting for the other signal and holding up a bus. <S> For a cannonical answer, please refer to the local traffic regulations. <S> They're totally in German though. <S> When you find the accurate answer, please do post it here for future searchers. <A> BUT, I think this junction lacks bike traffic lights. <S> Because, according to law, that is compliant with Vienna Convention on Road Traffic , that "white" signalizer on the right side of bus lane is:"light signals for buses and other vehicles performing payable passenger transport on regular lines", what, obviously, does not apply to bicycles. <S> I'm not sure if in Germany a cyclist is obliged to know what particulat signals at bus traffic lights means.
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In my opinion, the most reasonable option is to comply to what "bus traffic lights".
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How much air loss over time is considered normal / acceptable for a hybrid tire? I'm looking for a rule of thumb as to how much air loss over time is considered acceptable / normal for a hybrid tire. Surprisingly I have not been able to find much on this upon Googling. In this post: How long should a road tyre hold its pressure? Two people with road bike tires in the 110-120 psi range stated they normally lost 5-10 psi per day. This seems high, especially if closer to the 10 psi figure. In my particular case, I'm running 700x32mm tires and the sidewall states "Min 35 psi, Max 75 psi". I'm currently inflating every other day to about 75 psi (perhaps slightly higher, but always under 80 psi) and I find I'm loosing about 1-2 psi per day, which seems roughly normal but I'm really not sure. I'm using Giant tubes I got from a Giant dealer so I'm confident I'm not using poor quality tubes, and the tires are Giant branded hybrid or "gravel grinders" that are relatively tough and in good shape so I'm confident I don't have a puncture or slow leak problem (wheels/tires/tubes all OEM/stock parts on a 2017 Giant AnyRoad CoMax). How much is considered normal? <Q> This is mainly due to the microscopic pores in the tyre/tube which air molecules escape through over time. <S> However don't forget that the air in tyres also expands and contracts with temperature, so on colder days tyre pressures will decrease slightly, and vice-versa on warmer days pressures will increase, it is considered that roughly 1-2 psi with every 10 degree increase/decrease in temperature is the norm here. <S> Natural deflation also occurs more rapidly the higher the pressure so as you reach a tyres max pressure it will deflate quicker, and thus to keep your tyres at max pressure you'll need to inflate them every couple of days due to the higher pressure loss rate. <A> The answer is already in your question. <S> To quote, "they normally lost 5-10 psi per day". <S> Since you are using lower pressure and thicker tubes, it can be expected that you would lose pressure slower, somewhere around 1-2 psi (which accidentally is the exact number you posted). <A> Continental tire ( they make tubes as well ) states that their tubes loose about 5 psi per week and suggests topping them off on a weekly basis. <S> This information is not published but they will tell you as much on their support line if you speak German. <S> For a tube and tire combination, the tube is designed to hold the air in, not the tire and is the point of loss to consider. <A> Air permeates through rubber. <S> The more pressure under which this air is trapped inside the tube, the faster it will escape. <S> Air also escapes through the valve. <S> Again higher pressure tubes will let out air faster through the valves. <S> Of course there will be minor variation depending on the quality of the tube and valve. <S> Being light weight, I keep 80 psi in the rear wheel and 60 psi in the front. <S> My front wheel loses less air. <A> A loss of 5 psi per day seems very high to me. <S> I've tested this on my bike. <S> With Continental Gatorskins, 700x28, and Kenda tubes, I consistently lose 1-2 psi per day. <S> Also, since tire treads are permeable, it may have more to do with the type of tube than the type of tire that you are using. <S> Also, each time you disconnect your pump, there is a loss of air. <S> And each time you attach your pump, there is a loss of air as the tire pressurizes the pump's hose. <S> So if you pump up your tire every day, even if your tire hasn't lost any air, you will see a lower pressure. <S> Try this: pump up your tire to 100 psi. <S> Then disconnect and reconnect your pump and check the pressure again.
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Tyres will always lose pressure over time, I would say that for cycle tyres 1-2 psi is closer to the norm for most including me. About 5/10 psi loss per day in a high pressure road tube with 100 psi air is normal.
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What does 'tire clearance' mean? What does 'tire clearance' mean? Can you please explain with an illustration? Does it mean the distance between the tire and the fender? <Q> Basically its the gap between the tyre and any non-wheel part of the bike frame. <S> Static clearance is almost exactly the same as the clearances you have while riding, as long as the wheel axle bearings aren't sloppy and the wheel doesn't move laterally. <S> The above picture is faked up but shows the approximate differences between a "normal road tyre" and a 40mm cyclocross tyre and a 2.1" MTB tyre. <S> You can see that any smaller tyre will fit, but bigger tyres need more space. <S> Here's someone with plenty of clearance, and they could easily go up a tyre size or two. <S> Here's a bike with almost no clearance. <S> That last bike might not even take the same size tyre from another brand, because tyres vary subtly, and that's not a lot of tolerance! <S> So that's Chainstays <S> Seat stays Brake Bridge Rim calipers if you have them. <S> Seat post (pretty unlikely to cause problems) <S> Mudguards/fenders Rack supports (unlikely to be a prob) <S> Trailer mounts Kickstands <-- ESPECIALLY loose ones! <A> Tire clearance is measured with respect to <S> something(s) (by default, the frame in the rear and the fork in the front and the brakes if there are rim brakes; if anything between the frame/fork/brakes and the tire is there, such as fenders, this is included in the set of somethings). <S> Note that this is a function of both the tire used and the somethings. <S> We can define tire clearance as the minimum of the distance(s) from the tire to the object(s) its being measured with respect to. <S> That is, for each item in the set of objects, measure the distance between the closest point on the tire and the object. <S> Then, take the minimum of these distances over the set of objects. <S> For example, if I wanted to measure the tire clearance in the front, I'd put the wheel in, and measure minimum distance from the tire to the brake caliper and to the fork and to the fender if I had one. <S> The smallest of those distances would be my tire clearance. <S> Example 1 (from here ): <S> The tire clearance in the front here is the distance from the top of the tire to the closest point on the fork, since thats where it comes closest to the brake caliper and fork. <S> Example 2 (from here ): <S> The tire clearance to the chainstay here is the distance from the sidewall of the tire to the chainstays where the tire and chainstays are closest together. <S> There are various guidelines <S> for how much tire clearance is necessary -- you don't want the tire to rub on anything as well as account for possible hazards. <S> On a road bike, you'll typically see recommendations for 3-5+mm clearance in the front and rear. <S> For mountain biking, you'll want something larger. <A> Sorry I can't add an illustration from my phone :-) <S> Tire clearance is the amount of air space between the tire and any other part of the bike (except the wheel of course). <S> So yes, that includes the distance between the tire and fender / mud guard. <S> The amount of clearance tells you how much larger you can make the tires, how much mud can accumulate before it impedes your riding, and how much tolerance the bike (especially the guard) has to flex.
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NOTE just to be clear - tyre clearance matters anywhere that the rotating tyre comes close to your bike frame.
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Removing stuck front brake caliper from a modern road bike I'm trying to remove the front brake caliper from my Specialized Allez. It took me a long time, a lot of effort, and plenty of 3-in-1 to finally loosen and remove the recessed nut that screws onto the caliper bolt. I expected that the caliper would then come off the forks with ease but unfortunately this didn't happen. Am I missing something here or should the caliper be able to be removed when the nut is undone and removed from the bolt? As I mentioned, the recessed nut was really difficult to remove and there was a bit of rust around it. Maybe the bolt has rusted to the forks too. If so, any tips for removing the bolt and caliper? <Q> This is an old post but it came up in Google. <S> I had the same problem. <S> It's worth trying a bit of heat. <S> I used a hairdryer to gently heat the area and this helped the bolt come loose. <A> Sounds like the brake caliper bolt is corroded in place. <S> If the bike has been used on a trainer or if the rider is generally a profuse sweater, this can happen. <S> I would use some sort of penetrating oil, or maybe Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster on the affected bolt and let it sit for a bit, then take a punch- or whatever you have that resembles a punch, such as another bolt- and try lightly tapping the caliper bolt out from the back of the fork. <S> Don't go to town on it as you don't want to damage the brake caliper or the fork. <S> I'd be awfully surprised if this didn't get the job done. <S> Once the caliper is free, cleanup whatever penetrating oil you used along with as much of the corrosion as you can. <S> Upon re-assembly, apply a very light film of grease to ouside of the brake bolt and the non-threaded section of the caliper bolt. <S> Though not necessary, small amount of blue Loctite (or a comparable workable threadlocker) on the caliper bolt threads will not only help keep the bolt in place, but also helps prevent corrosion between the nut and bolt. <S> These steps should help prevent this from happening next time. <A> A a side note. <S> I once had a similar problem <S> but then I couldn't get my recessed nut loose. <S> I removed the brake pads. <S> After that I could twist the whole brake assembly until I managed to "screw it out" of the nut. <S> Then I screwed in a screw into the recessed nut and carefully knocked it out of the frame with a hammer. <A> Old post <S> but I had the same problem today removing a linear brake caliper from the steel post. <S> The most likely problem, if the caliper rotates on the post, is over tightening of the hold-down bolt. <S> My post was slightly mushroomed at the top and prevented the caliper from sliding off the post on either side. <S> Look for mushroom of post head if the brakes are old or over tightened.
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The best way would be to use a small center hub puller on the bolt head, but without that I ended up slightly filing/grinding down the head of the post until I could use a screw driver and hammer to tap off the caliper. It could be the result of road salt or just general longterm exposure to the elements as well.
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Uneven inner tube when inflated inside the tyre I have bought a new inner tube that, when I inflate it inside the tyre, it stands out in the part of the valve. In the beginning I didn't realize but riding the bike it felt OK with a small bump periodically every meter or so.I took it off to inspect it and you can see that in the area of the valve it stands out of the tyre. See picture below. I am used to change inner tubes and this has never happened before. It is the same size as the usual specialized although this are cheaper. Is there anything that I may be doing wrong or should I return them? PS: Other cases where the inner tube is not even although inflating it outside the tyre here and here . <Q> When installing an inner tube, one must take extra care with regard to the area near the valve stem. <S> It is fairly easy to get a portion of the thickened area around the stem "trapped" behind the tire bead, leading to a situation where the bead does not seat completely and resulting in a lump. <S> There are several strategies to deal with this. <S> Then, after the tire is (mostly) seated on the rim, let any excess pressure out of the tube and then press the stem in with your finger, about as far as you can get it to go. <S> This helps pull the rubber around the valve out from behind the tire bead. <S> Then, when you think you have it all together, carefully inspect the bead all the way around to make sure it's evenly seated to the rim everywhere. <S> Correct as needed. <S> I will note that if a tube is too large or too small you may get lumps, but your tube appears to be properly sized. <A> There is nothing wrong with a tube that inflates unevenly outside the tire. <S> That is to say, this symptom alone does not prove a problem. <S> Perfectly fine innertubes inflate unevenly. <S> If the tire is seated properly, and the bead is hooked into the rim, a mis-shapen inner tube will not be enough to create a perceivable bump on the tire. <S> However, any number of slight defects in a tire can cause a perceptible bump <S> no matter how great the tube is. <A> If my understanding of your question is correct the tube pops out of the side of the tyre when inflating or soon after. <S> If it pops out when inflating :loosen the nut that secures the valve to the wheel rim nut almost all the way and keep the valve pushed in while inflating until the tyre is almost fully inflated. <S> If it pops out soon after inflating :(not using the above method)dont inflate the tyre to the recommend pressure to give the tyre a chance to settle for 24hrs. <S> If the tyre holds you can then try increasing the pressure to the recommeded .
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First, make sure the tube is partly inflated ( almost fully "puffed out") when you insert it into the tire and mount the tire.
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Why doesn't my (battery-powered) light work in the cold? I've got a cheap LED lamp running on three AAA NiMH batteries which stops working when exposed to near-freezing temperatures; is there a likely reason for this? The lamp has been dropped a number of times due to my incorrigible clumsiness and the batteries are a year or two old; could either of these factors play a role? <Q> The chemical reaction that powers the electric voltage does needs some temperature to perform as intended. <S> If you then have a consumer load that requires a bigger amount of power, they tend to drain rather quickly since they cannot set free much energy when cold. <A> There are two reasons why it might not work: <S> The batteries don't like the cold. <S> Many battery chemistries don't like the cold -- notably alkaline, manganese (heavy-duty), and NiMH/NiCad batteries. <S> To test this hypothesis, put your light (or even just the batteries) in your freezer. <S> If your light gets weaker the colder it gets, this is your problem (especially with cheap lights that don't have step-up converters ). <S> You can pre-warm your batteries or switch to a chemistry that is more cold-resistant - such as Lithium. <S> Lithium is stronger in cold weather, but not invincible so again you may want to pre-warm your batteries. <S> Unfortunately, lithium AAA 1.5v replacements are quite expensive and not rechargeable. <S> You might be best getting a new 18650 lithium battery rechargeable light. <S> If the lights turn off in the cold even with fresh batteries, then you may have a faulty solder joint. <S> As the light gets colder, the components in it shrink at different rates and it's easy for an electrical connection to break due to bad soldering. <S> This might only happen when the light is below a certain temperature. <S> If the light flickers or turns off at a certain temperature (rather than dimming), then you most probably have a poor connection. <S> While you could resolder or reflow the solder, it may be just easier to get another light. <S> tldr <S> ; You need a new light. <S> Get a new one based on 18650 or larger, rechargeable lithium batteries. <S> As David Richerby notes, buy the best light you can afford. <S> You'll save more over the long term as money buys durability. <A> I have had this problem with cheap LED lights while biking in cold weather. <S> They seem to only fail when in "blinking" mode , so my solution has been to keep the lights full on .
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Batteries, especially most types of rechargeables don't work well in cold conditions. You could try with newer batteries, maybe yours are already a bit exhausted or you can try ones that are based on a different cell type.
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Commuting daily with an Expensive Bike, tips? I have been commuting to work daily for years now. Sadly I just switched jobs and there is no bike parking, so I have to leave it in the street. My main problem is that I'm riding a Colnago Single Speed, so I'm not a fan of that solution in the long run. I just wanted to know if any of you have had a similar problem. Maybe the best solution is just to get a new cheaper bike to be safe. <Q> I think that picking up a second bike is definitely a good approach. <S> Not only does it allow you to not risk your more expensive bike getting stolen, but it allows you to have a bike more suitable to commuting. <S> Perhaps wider tires if you want something a little more comfortable. <S> Since you are good with a single speed, this can also be very advantageous on a commuting bike because they are extremely reliable as there are much fewer parts that can have something go wrong with them. <A> I agree with Kibbee. <A> I just take my bike into the office. <S> It would be damaged or stolen pretty quickly if I left it outside even locked. <S> It's just a matter of finding somewhere to park it. <S> At clients offices I usually leave it with their building security. <S> I haven't had a bike stolen yet, <S> but I've lost a few things attached to it (people are very light fingered here), so don't leave your bag or anything easily portable with it. <S> I even take off my lights.
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Would also recommend going fixed for the ultimate in simplicity and weather-proofing as I don't suppose they'll be any shelter for it parking on the street. You can put fenders and racks on your commuting bike.
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How do you lock up your bike trailer? Many of us pull bike trailers - whether one-wheeled or two-wheeled -- cargo or kids. What is the best way to lock up trailers - especially when you're commuting? Most trailers come with a quick-release attachment to the bike, which means they're also easy to steal. <Q> I loop the one end around itself on one wheel, loop it around the hitch bar, thread it through the spokes of the other wheel, loop it around the hitch bar again, then lock it through my bike's U-lock. <S> It's not super secure since the wheels have quick releases (as does the hitch bar), so it wouldn't take long enough to pop them off and untangle the cable from the hitch bar, but it's a mild deterrent against a quick "smash and grab" theft. <S> Plus they'd have to leave the wheels behind, which would make the trailer pretty useless, especially if the thief is going to try to sell it <S> so he's probably not going to want to have to buy replacement wheels. <S> On the downside, it's just a 10mm cable, so wouldn't take much work for a thief to cut through it. <S> I wouldn't want to leave it parked all day like this, but for a shopping trip with bike rack in a high-traffic location near the front of the store, it's worked out fine. <A> A bike trailer isn't particularly easy to transport if you haven't planned for it. <S> So opportunists won't take much deterring. <S> Some form of lock on the trailer itself would be a good idea, but this would depend on the trailer design - a cable may be your only realistic option if it's loaded . <S> The contents may be more of a risk, so simple measures like not putting anything easily portable/valuable obvious on top would be a good idea. <S> If you're regularly parking a trailer somewhere for long periods (e.g. commuting with it for transporting a child or shopping) <S> you really could do with D-locking the frame to something solid even if it's fiddly. <S> But some trailers don't have a single looped bit of metal - this may even be relevant in choosing your trailer. <S> If this isn't an option, taking a wheel or two in with you would be good. <S> Unlike with bikes, it wouldn't be so easy to steel a wheel off another trailer to complete a stolen one. <S> Alternatively you could remove a wheel from the trailer and lock it in the same D-lock you use for your bike. <A> I have a Croozer Kid Plus 2 for 2 seasons I recently had to leave it outside for some time. <S> I struggled for w while to find a place where I can slip my U lock. <S> Eventually I used a cable I fortunately had with me and wrapped it around the beam that goes underneath the trailer. <S> There are no gaps between the frame and the trailer body. <S> Bumpers are open on one side – no luck here. <S> Locking the hitch bar with a provided key is pointless as it can be detached on the trailer-side with one hand (with I do every time I use it and love the practicallity of it :)) <S> Update: <S> I've purchased a 2 meter Kryptonite cable, wrapped it around the beam underneath the trailer and it sits there permanently. <S> It's just long enough <S> so I can u-lock my bike and the trailer cable to the same object. <A> I have a Burley Flatbed on an expensive Pedego Interceptor. <S> I bought two Abus 55MB/40HB63 (brass) padlocks from Amazon. <S> They have long, 1/4" shanks (shackles). <S> One for where the trailer tongue fixes to the trailer and one for where the trailer connects to the bike. <S> Fits like a glove! <S> Only need to take the key to where it fixes to the bike with me. <S> Read about this elsewhere but wanted to provide the data on the padlocks and size of shank. <A> Consider the trailer its own vehicle and lock it away independently. <S> A trailer should carry its own locks, just like your bike does. <S> Pulling a long chain lock through both wheels is quite effective (although a bit cumbersome if you have a wide trailer). <S> So is locking both wheels to fixed objects like lanterns. <S> Depending on your threat assessment, you could even go for the overkill and lock everything that has enough room to fit a lock through to something. <S> Key in all this is to consider the bike trailer its own vehicle. <S> Lock your bike like you'd usually lock it, remove the trailer and park it somewhere safe. <S> Locks will help you with that, just like they do with your bike. <A> Inspired by the way some car trailers are secured to the car hook, I recommend finding a way to complicate unauthorized detach. <S> If your trailer use Thule ezHitch axle mount or similar, you can find a way to make hard to take the cotter out (custom cotter with padlock eye) <S> If not possible, you can consider adding additional flexible secure connection (lock cable /chain), that will not get between spokes. <A> I have a trailer like the others pictured here. <S> However it also has a removable handlebar across the back and a third wheel at the front, and the drawbar can fold underneath, turning it into an odd-looking three-wheel pushchair/pram. <S> Don't need to lock it outside the supermarket if you're pushing it around inside the supermarket. <S> Only downside is its a fraction wider than a normal shopping trolley/cart so other people tend to clip it.
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Except treating trailer as a single unit with its own lock (capable of locking at least one wheel and the frame to bicycle stand) there is something more you can do as an additional protection. I have a Burley pet/cargo trailer and when I take it to the store, I use a long (~ 3 meter) cable with a loop on the ends.
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Making the pedals on my kid's bike rotate when I push so he'll learn to pedal I bought a 12" bike with support wheels for my kid. He is 2.5 years old. He is not pedaling the bike, so I push the bike from the back. The bike moves forward, the wheels rotate, but the pedals do not move. Since the pedals do not move, my kid just puts his feet on them and will not pedal. How can I make the pedals move when the wheels move so that he'll learn to pedal? <Q> So your boy is simply sitting and not pedalling, so you push him along? <S> Of course he's not going to pedal when he's getting a free ride from you. <S> Stop Pushing! <S> Firstly, does he understand how a bike works? <S> Do you ride? <S> Does he see you or others riding? <S> You might consider going the other way, and remove the whole transmission and the training wheels. <S> Something like this <S> : Eventually he'll realise how slow the balance bike is, and want his pedals back to go faster. <S> And that's awesome. <A> Two options: Remove the pedals (leave the crank in place) and set the seat low enough for him to touch the ground with his feet and push himself along. <S> Keep raising the seat a little at a time, as he gets the concept of balance, and reinstall the pedals when he seems ready. <S> Intentionally do what is often unintentionally done to a bike: <S> Get it tight (tie it in place if necessary) and make sure it doesn't stick out to where it will get caught by the chain. <S> This will keep the sprocket from "freewheeling". <S> As to #2, two cautions: 1) <S> There is a very slight chance of serious injury if the kid gets going downhill with his feet off the pedals, then sticks his feet into the path of them. <S> 2) <S> There is also a slight chance that the bicycle will be damaged by the wrapping, and the forces between the two moving parts. <S> (However, I've seen several bikes with this done unintentionally, and, aside from busted spokes on larger bikes, there has been no obvious damage.) <A> What you describe is fixed gear bicycle. <S> Generally they are recommended only for people who are already very proficient at riding a bike, not kids under 3 years. <A> I have 2 kids, they both knew how to ride a bicycle around 2.5 years (with pedals and without training wheels). <S> Basically, here was the plan : <S> Move forward, <S> Use the direction, Balance, Use of pedals, <S> Everything combined. <S> Balance bike <S> The bike they used the most during all this process was their balance bike. <S> We bought one and give it to them around 1.5 year. <S> Since then, we proposed them to use it every time it was possible (going to the park, at nurse's etc). <S> Basically, kids will learn steps 1 to 3 by themselves. <S> You know they rock at step 3 when they intentionally raise their feet just for fun in slopes, or just after strong pushes with their legs. <S> If they raise their feet, they're ready for step 4 : learning to use pedals. <S> Bike with training wheels Make this step as short as possible, and make them alternatively use the balance bike. <S> That's not simple to get the idea that you need to push on on only one foot, and alternate. <S> In terms of coordination. <S> But as they know they need to go forward, just showing them once or twice will make them get the principle. <S> Once they get it, they just need practice to make it automatic. <S> Then they're ready for real bikes Without training wheels <S> Once you tried this, you can forget the training wheels : you still can alternate between a bike and a balance bike. <S> Find a slightly downhill portion of asphalt (you need it to be long enough, and safe). <S> Place your child on a bike (without training wheels) and if he's ready, just help him place his feet on the pedals and run next to him as he will enjoy the ride <S> After a few descents, he will get it completely. <A> I had the same encounter with my 2 year old in 2015, then winter came. <S> When the 2016 summer came ~8 months later, he at 3 years old understood it with no effort. <S> Just relax, and as his cognitive skills grow, he will learn quickly. <A> I had the same problem with my son. <S> He didn't understand how to pedal and he lacked the strength in his legs to get it moving easily and so form any association with pushing and movement. <S> I was advised to use a push-bike without pedals, but obviously this doesn't solve the actual problem, but rather just avoids it. <S> In the end, I jacked the back of the bike up on some bricks (on the stabiliser wheels) and then manually moved his feet around on the pedals until he had figured it out. <S> I also got him at first to just give little pushes on the pedals rather than a full 360 turn.
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Essentially revert the bike to a balance bike until he gets the idea that he has to push. Wrap something -- rope, twine, some sort of rubber strip -- around the rear axle, between the wheel proper and the sprocket. The secret was to teach them only 1 thing at a time, in a funny way.
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Snow and Ice tires for road bike? I have a road bike that have just enough clearance for 700x28c (continental pro4 endurance 28c). Obviously, this is not the best bike for winter conditions, but what are my best options for tackling ice and snow with that bike? <Q> There is one thing you can try, if you have disc brakes. <S> It works a lot better than one might think. <S> You can put zip ties around your tire and rim if there is enough clearance. <S> The more zip ties the better the traction. <S> Also the heavier duty zip ties the better. <S> When placing them alternate the heads so that they are on both shoulders of the tire. <S> I have ridden on ice and snow several times with this method and have yet to go down. <S> I wouldn't get to crazy on them and it helps to keep a pocket of ties, but this method works and does not break the bank like a $100+ studded tire will. <S> If you can lower your tire pressure slightly that will help as well. <S> I have run this method on a 26" MTB tubeless, running 15psi and it never slipped on a parking lot covered in 1" of solid ice, that i had trouble walking on. <A> There isn't. <S> Road bikes are not thought to belong on snow. <S> The limiting factor for most road bikes for tire size is the brake arch. <S> The closest I have seen are studded ice tires for cyclocross bikes, but these generally start in the 32/35 range. <A> You can get studded tires that are 30mm and even then there needs to be room for the studs themselves. <S> The smaller wheels leaves more room for tires. <S> In essence you need to get 650b wheels and tires. <S> If you have rim brakes then you also need to get brakes the have 17mm longer reach so to still have the brake pads go on the rims. <S> If you have a very narrow road bike then the size of the tire might still be limited by a narrow chainstay or narrow forks so its not a magical solution <S> but it will give more room at the seat tube and brake arches.
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What you want is larger tires and possibly studs. There are no companies I am aware of making studded or snow tires that will fit in a traditional brake arch on a road bike. It is possible to do a 650b wheel conversion if your road bike wheels are 700c.
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SRAM X01 Eagle (12speed) in 11speed transmission: it work? Well, I intend to use an SRAM X01 Eagle (12speed) rear derailleur in a 1x11 transmission (with a SRAM X01 "non-Eagle" 11speed trigger, cassette SunRace 11s 11-46, SRAM PC XX1 chain).Will it work perfectly? <Q> No 11-speed products will work on Eagle." <A> Both the SRAM 1x11 and 1x12 drivetrains use the SRAM X-ACTUATION™ technology. <S> This means they both have the same cable pull ratio. <S> I have not tried this but the derailleurs should be interchangeable - keeping in mind <S> the Eagle derailleur will be better suited for larger range cassettes. <S> Edit: Here is someone who is using an XX1 shifter with an Eagle derailleur: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=88323 <S> Setup: 11-50 <S> T 11 cog Garbaruk cassette X01 Eagle Rear Derailleur 12 gear <S> XX1 X-ACTUATION Trigger Shifter <S> 11 gear <S> The SRAM 12 speed <S> X01 derailleur has the same cable pull ratio as the SRAM 11 speed XX1 derailleur. <S> This means you can interchange the X01 and XX1 derailleurs between the 11 and 12 gear drivetrains. <S> My guess on this setup proved right <S> and I get excellent shifting with <S> no backpedal chain drops. <A> And 12 speed XTR and Eagle has that same 1.1 ratio and are compatibile. <S> See
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"SRAM will only make the Eagle chainring in the direct-mount style at first, and we were told it's the only Eagle component compatible with their 1x11 drivetrains. To quote Art's Cyclery : "Eagle drivetrains are not backwards compatible in any way (the exception being SRAM’s direct mount cranksets, which will still require a new Eagle chainring)" and VitalMTB :
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How to mark pins that were once extracted on a chain? Like many cyclists, I rotate a set of chains (two chains every 1000 km in my case) to minimise gear wear and have an opportunity to do a deep chain wash every now and then. When the time comes, I replace both chains and the cassette, and the chainrings every second time. This pattern results in a good lifetime for the transmission, but it means each chain is removed and placed back many times. The chains I use (HG93) don't have a special connector link. For safety, it's not good to extract the same regular pin more than once. So what is the best way to mark the pins that were once extracted? A very close inspection can identify them by some flashing and scratches, but this is slow and tedious, and never reliable. Sometimes I mark the extracted pins (or whole links) with the etch primer (other paints may not last through the use and wash cycles), but I don't always have it at hand. What other simple methods do you use or know? <Q> You're overthinking this <S> There are 100-114 links in a chain. <S> Even blind shooting <S> you have a 3.5% chance of getting the same pin twice out of 5 selections on 114 links. <S> Even if you did get one twice, it should be perfectly happy to be pressed out again. <S> Otherwise use a $2 quick link, which are good for several dozen join/parts. <S> If you use the proper curved pliers, it will be dead-easy to undo. <S> When I'm out on the road I don't carry the right tool for quicklinks, so I end up using either a length of brake cable inner that is in my toolkit, or some generic leatherman needlenose pliers, which takes a bit of effort. <A> Shimano replacement pins are distinct due to the side where the pilot gets broken off. <S> The regular pins should not be pushed back in under any circumstances to avoid breakage. <S> The real solution for someone with your habits is use a KMC Missing link 9 on each chain, which is re-openable and works great. <S> I understand it can seem to make sense not to tarnish a safety-critical item with a third-party part. <S> The truth is that the tactile nature of pushing pins through, even as per manufacturer recommendation with a new replacement pin, is much more accident prone than a securely fitting 2-piece connector made for the chain in question, as KMC ones are for Shimano. <S> And disregarding their warning to not push normal pins back through is plain dangerous. <A> I wouldn't want to break the same link again even if the pin was new. <S> A diamond scriber <S> (amazon link as an example) can be used to write on steel, and if you make a clear, distinctive mark it will be easy to spot on a clean chain. <S> You can go further and scribe then apply a dab of paint into the scratch, but you could probably just paint in the manufacturer's stamp more easily than that. <S> If you have a chain that's plated against corrosion this might not be a good idea, but most plating is cosmetic on the visible faces. <A> It's pretty easy to identify a link that you've already pushed out -- it'll be dead easy to push out again, with little to no resistance. <S> By that time, it's already too late <S> and I'd just replace it with a quick link. <S> I'm not sure your resistance to quick links. <S> They're cheap, strong, and easily identified. <S> You don't have to use a quick link as a quick link, you can just avoid the quick link and push out the pins on another section of chain if that's what spins your wheels.
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Although you can get replacement pins for (many) chains, and I suggest you use them, I suspect that's not quite what you're looking for. If paint is your preferred solution there are touch up paint pens for cars that are small, cheap, hard wearing and long lasting.
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Washing a vintage bike—special considerations? I've watched several tutorials on washing bikes, and the general gist seems to be to use a degreaser on the drivetrain, then wash the rest with soapy water, and don't spray hard when rinsing so water doesn't go into the bearings. My question is are there are any special considerations when washing an older bike—in particular about rust? It's also worth noting that my seat post has grooves cut out to reduce the weight, so water could potentially go inside the seat tube. Should I take care to avoid this, or is it a nonissue? The bike in question is a 1984 Trek 460, with a CrMo steel frame. <Q> Cleaning a vintage bike isn't that much different than cleaning a new bike, with perhaps two caveats: Vintage bikes are usually made of steel and the frame drain holes may be plugged or non-existent. <S> Don't spray (citrus-based) cleaner directly on the bike, spray it on the rag and then wipe the bike. <S> While cleaning the bike, I'd see if there aren't drain holes at the bottom of the bottom bracket, chain stays, and front forks and make sure they're clear. <S> Vintage bikes usually have decals that might be easily accidentally removed or damaged. <S> I'd be particularly careful cleaning around these decals. <S> If you like how they look and don't care about restoration value, I'd protect the decals by spraying them with a decal-safe clearcoat (or putting an overlay of helicopter tape) - but be aware that this will destroy their value for a conservationist, so do it if the bike is emotionally valuable to you, but not particularly rare (such as say, a 1984 Trek). <A> I would say the washing instructions.... <S> degrease drivetrain, mild soap, etc. <S> is exactly what you want to do. <S> What I would concern myself with is the extent of the rust. <S> Today there are a number of frame saver (rust inhibitor) products that you can apply inside the seat tube to mitigate corrosion, I am not so sure those product were so well known in 1984. <S> Back in 1984, conscientious owner may have found a product or have used 3-in-1 oil inside the frame to serve the same purpose. <S> Once I was satisfied that bike was structurally safe to ride, I would apply a frame saver product and then not worry too much about the grooved seatpost when washing. <S> Most bottom bracket housings (the tube the bottom bracket threads into) have drain holes at the bottom for water to drain. <A> A point missed in other answers is the saddle, which may be leather. <S> If it is leather, then avoid washing it with water. <S> beeswax (I use this - I put on some leather gloves and simply massage beeswax onto the saddle for 5-10 minutes on a warm dry day. <S> Let it sit for an hour in the sun, and then buff with a clean lint-free cloth. <S> Nuggets for shoes - not recommended because they tend to stain your clothes easily. <S> Very occasionally grips can be made of leather too, but that's rare.
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My advice would be to perform a very thorough inspection of all the rust areas to ensure the integrity of the tubing has not been compromised by corrosion (e.g. no holes in tubes). I wouldn't use water directly (from a hose) directly on a vintage bike but instead only use wet rags and wipes. Instead treat with an appropriate leather conditioner and preserver product Proofide (what brooks saddles recommend but only on their brand new saddles)
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Pedals spin freely in cold conditions I recently bought a second hand Giant Upland SE and to be frank, it is my first bike with multiple gears. The bike functioned normally for the first day or two. I could use all the gears. When the bike is stored indoors, the pedal and wheel work fine but once I take it out in the cold (anywhere from 0 to -30 degrees celsius), the pedals rotate freely and have no action on the wheel. Also I am not able use some gears on the rear wheel. Can anyone please help with an explanation and solution? <Q> The pawls in your freehub are most likely getting stuck, causing them not to lock and transfer the force from the cassette to the wheel. <S> In your case as the bike is new it is probably due to it being assembled with grease rather than a lighter oil, but the problem can also come with ageing. <S> You will need to rebuild the freehub. <S> This is not the easiest procedure and requires some specific tools (chain whip and freehub nut at least) so probably get your bike shop to do it. <S> /derailleur... <S> If you are already taking it to a bike shop just ask them to fix it. <S> EDIT: <S> Based on the additional information (-30 not 30 Celcius and secondhand), like others say the freehub is most likely frozen due to old grease and or water which has gotten inside the hub. <S> Same advice still applies though, you will need to overhaul it and get new grease in there or just buy a new one. <A> If it's "cold" - as in really cold - (and not 30 deg celcius which is actually very warm) - and given your bike is new - <S> it sounds like your freehub froze. <S> The pawls in the freehub are frozen in their un-engaged position. <S> So there will be no drive to the rear wheel when pedalling. <S> Humorously, a few years ago - I was mountain biking in the snow. <S> It froze. <S> And the only option was to urinate on the freehub. <A> You say in comments that your bike was stored outside all summer. <S> I'd bet you have ended up with water inside the freehub, probably emulsified with the grease/oil that is supposed to be in there. <S> Since oil and water don't mix, you end up with a grey/brown mucky muddy mess that is either bubbles of liquid oil floating in water, or bubbles of water floating inside grease. <S> Example of contaminated grease in a 4WD wheel bearing. <S> It smells bad too. <S> Either way, when the water freezes your grease suddenly becomes more like putty and less like a lubricant. <S> So your answer is to clean and service the freehub and try to get all the water and contaminated grease out. <S> Even storing it under a carport or verandah is better than exposed to the raw weather. <A> Your freehub is frozen. <S> This is common in places with colder temperatures. <S> Factories often assemble less expensive hubs with whatever grease is on hand and the temperature ratings of these can vary drastically. <S> Many automotive style lithium complex greases are good to -48C (-55F). <S> You absolutely should not ride your bike in this condition. <S> You have gotten lucky with no engagement. <S> Often, people with frozen freehubs experience partial engagement, which leads to chipped teeth/pawls/mechanisms and ultimately a destroyed freehub. <A> Fixed the issue with shifting and can use all gears now. <S> Loose cable was the problem. <S> Removed the whole rear wheel assembly including the hub and thoroughly degreased it before applying new appropriate lubrication (sram grease). <S> The cycle works great now ! <S> :) <S> Thank you all for your help!
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Your freehub needs to be overhauled and have the factory grease replaced with a winter weight grease. The unusable gears on the back could be a number of things, rear derailleur limit screws, lack of cable tension, bent hanger Either way, stop storing your bike outside where it can get rained on, and where condensation might form. If you can't get it out, then a new freehub body might be easier than disassembling.
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New wheel, why not go with disk hub? I'm getting a new rear wheel built for my commuter. My bike frame does not support disk brakes. I do not intend to use disk brakes in foreseeable future either . I checked the price for Hope rear hubs. The price for disk and non-disk are around the same. Is here a reason I should't go with the disk brake hub? Weight is not concern for me. A good wheel being a substantial investment, why not future-proof the build? ie, the wheel doesn't need to be rebuilt in case I decide on disk brake bike in future. <Q> (you need a rim brake track to use rim brakes safely; I don't know of any higher end wheels which are shipped this way, so if you buy a complete bike later, you may end up with better wheels on the complete bike). <S> One thing you may run into later is that your hub uses a different disc brake standard than the rotors you want to run (but this is an easy enough problem to deal with). <S> Another thing you might run into is different types of hub compatibility needed (e.g. if your next bike has a thru axle or something; unlikely on a commuter though, I suppose, or width as Jamie A points out in the comments). <A> Disc brake hubs are built to withstand different forces, i.e. the twisting from using a disc brake rotor attached to the hub. <S> Usually this means the hub is a bit beefier and also it may have a different spoke lacing pattern meant to help with the twisting forces from the brake. <S> It won't hurt to have it, but the price for sturdier parts is usually a weight penalty. <S> I'd say that's worth considering <S> but you may not care in your situation. <A> You don't say in your question, but presumably you already have some kind of 135mm frame. <S> Between typical disc and non-disc rear wheels for a given frame spacing <S> (135 is really the only one where disc and non-disc are both prevalent, although 130 disc hubs do exist), the disc wheels are going to be stronger against radial loads because they have more total tension (less tension disparity right to left), but weaker against lateral loads from the left side (not as much bracing angle). <S> It's not likely to make a difference either way, but this could influence your decision. <S> Other than weight, this is the only functional difference. <S> I'd say go for it if you think there's a reasonable chance it will be relevant for you in the future.
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As we've discussed earlier, its fine to have a disc brake hub to work with a rim brake rim , but most disc wheels aren't built with rims that can use rim brakes
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How comfortable is it to wear a u-lock holder this way? I have never used a bike lock holder or holster but this handmade one looks practical and cool: https://www.vespoe.com/contourandco/shop/u-lock-holder .I would like to know if it's practical to use on a daily basis. <Q> tw: extreme anti-hipster /snark <S> Ahh! <S> The u-lock belt holder. <S> The perfect accessory for hipsters, literally: Advantages: <S> Everyone will know you're a hipster <S> People may think you're into hardcore bondage <S> No ugly plastic u-lock holder marring the beautiful lines of your pristine lacquer-coated steel fixie <S> If you get mugged you have something to fight back with assuming you haven't parked and locked your bike <S> When you walk into a bar with your u-lock on your hip, all the other hipsters will admire your fashion sense and dedication to the art and science of hipsterism. <S> They may even buy you a craft beer. <S> Disadvantages: <S> Everyone will know you're a hipster <S> People may think you're into hardcore bondage (thanks Mattnz) <S> Unless you're a bona fide bike messenger (who usually just carry their bikes into the delivery address rather than locking them up), you presumably don't have to wear your lock most of the day. <S> So you have to keep your lock holder on you for the entire day, just for your 20 minute commute from Queens to Brooklyn <S> Everytime you change your trousers, you have to rethread your belt through it. <S> Of course, real men never wash or change their jeans . <S> You are committed to wearing jeans or trousers with sturdy belt loop holes when you ride your bike. <S> Then again, hipsters are allergic to lycra and would also never do a WNBR if you fall while wearing it, it may hurt severely or actually cause you damage (thanks Criggie) <S> Hanging a 3 kg / 6 pound weight on your jeans is going to cause it to sag. <S> But that's why you wear only the finest underwear. <S> Remember, too, that true hipsters do not tuck in their shirts <S> -- so an empty holster would be hidden. <S> Or you can go to the bar, sans bike. <A> I'd rather not have oil, brake dust and general road dirt rubbed all over my clothes. <A> Actual reply to actual question: I find it supremely comfortable. <S> I absolutely endorse carrying your lock around your waist. <S> In fact, my summer bag is an Ortlieb backpack with no ulock holder <S> so I wear my ulock around my waist every day and never have an issue with comfort. <S> I have a belt with a u-lock slot and a hip pouch on it. <S> The hip pouch holds tools, a co2 cart, and a tube. <S> The majority of my time this thing is in my bigger bag, which I carry on my back. <S> However, if I want to run a quick errand <S> I just grab the hip pouch. <S> If you get too hung up analyzing the hipster culture you will miss out on the practical analysis. <S> Now, practically speaking, I would not put this attachment on the belt that is holding up my pants. <S> But as a means to keep your lock on you, around the waist is the way to go. <S> EDIT TO ADD for @David Richerby: I have a few bikes and I don't put u-lock holders on each of them. <S> I carry my lock on my body. <S> Some of the bikes have no place for a u lock to mount!
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If I want to travel really light I leave the pouch and use the belt with my lock. So if you want that free craft beer from your fellow hipsters in admiration of your dedication to hipsterism, you need to carry two u-locks, one to lock your bike up outside the bar and other to carry on your hip properly holstered. An obvious disadvantage is shown clearly in the photograph in the question: locks get dirty. Not uncomfortable in the least.
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Would variable crank arm length be beneficial to a rider? I was thinking it would be cool to have a bike where the crank arms can be adjusted automatically "on the fly", depending on load. If that is not so safe then maybe a manual adjustment that the rider could make from a control mounted on the handlebars while riding. For example, when extra torque is needed, the crank arms could be extended to maybe 180mm. When cruising along on flat pavement on a windless day (or with wind at the riders back), shorter crank arms might be desirable to save on excessive leg motion. Having adjustable crank arm lengths might actually extended the effective gear range even wider. For example, suppose the crank arm length adjustment is between 180mm and 140mm and is currently set in the mid portion of 160mm. The rider then attempts to ride up one of those spiral walkways that are part of a pedestrian bridge over a roadway. If the lowest gear has already been selected but more hill climbing torque is needed, extending the crank arms from 160mm to 180mm should help. Even if 180mm is excessively long for the rider, it is only temporary until they crest the hill, then they can be reset back to 160mm. I think that would be another fun thing to play with on a bike. So my question is would this be beneficial to a rider and if so, why don't I see these available? Has anyone attempted to make this, either homemade or available to the general public? From an Engineering viewpoint, can it be done? If so, how? <Q> The system you propose is just a third way to change gear, in a mechanically very complicated way. <S> Any benefit that could be obtained by lengthening the cranks can already be obtained by moving to an easier gear and a bike with two or even three front chain rings and anywhere between five and eleven rear sprockets has plenty enough gear ratios available to cover all situations. <S> And if the range of gears available isn't wide enough, replacing the chainrings and/or rear cassette is a much simpler fix. <A> The research on subject (source: Wilson & Papadopoulos: <S> Bicycling Science, MIT Press 2004) shows that crank length has very little effect on pedaling efficiency or or maximum power output. <S> On the other hand, experiments showed that tests subjects had individual preferences in crank length even though efficiency was not affected. <S> The crank lengths in tests done on recumbent bike ranged between 110 and 230 mm, where lengths above 180mm showed significant decrease in maximum power output. <S> As already discussed in comments, an adjustable length crank would be heavy, complex and prone to failure, and these drawbacks would overweigh the small benefits. <A> There are crankarms with multiple attachment points . <S> Obviously this doesn't allow changing leverage on the fly. <S> My own understanding, ojs' post notwithstanding, is that crankarm length should be proportional to femur length, so unless you've got variable-length femurs, there's not much benefit in variable-length crankarms. <A> I can understand and agree with your idea. <S> I have and ride several types of bikes, from BMX racing with 180 mm cranks and fixed gearing (because of the sport, I can reach pretty high revs) to my road bike 170 and my all in mtb one 175mm. <S> The fact is of course, crank length is not only about gearing but is an anatomical connection to your bike, so it is linked to your legs length, but also to the use, <S> so yes, the more RPM, the shorter the crank is the rule. <S> I have some ideas about dynamic length crank, but is a field already researched and you can find some ideas at the web. <S> But the fact is cranks are a very stressed part of transmission and will mean a big weight adding to have a working system which will be modifying the balance in each stroke. <A> I love this concept, and it has been on my mind for the last few days. <S> A shorter crank would make for easier cruising at high RPM without having to increase your pedal speed. <S> When the torque is needed using the longer crank arm with a slower pedal speed. <S> Gear changing would be done accordingly. <S> And to answer the response given here several times, changing to a lower gear would not achieve this same result. <S> A lower gear would mean higher RPM therefore higher pedal speed. <S> A shorter crank arm would result in higher RPM and not necessarily a higher pedal speed.
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There is a small increase in maximum power output with shorter cranks and and in efficiency with longer cranks, and racers who optimize to the last percent do use different crank lengths for event-specific bikes.
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How do I achieve a lower gear on a Norco Bigfoot with a 9 speed cassette? I have 2015 Norco Bigfoot fat bike which has a Shimano HG-20 11-34T 9 sp cassette a with a Shimano Alivio RDM 4000 SGS 9 sp Rear Derailleur and a Shimano EZ-Fire EF 51 9 sp Rear Shifter. As I live in a particularly hilly area and intent to most ride this bike off road along animal pads in the bush I would like to reduce the gearing by having a 42t cog on the cassette. From reading I understand this can be done by- removing a small cog and installing an 42T extender cog in the cassette,- by replacing the current cassette with a wide range 9 sp cassette (hard to find),or by- changing to a wide range 10 speed cassette with a change of derailleur, chain and shifter. Please provide advise as to the best, most economical option. Could I install a 10 speed cassette and just use 9 cogs? From https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2015/bigfoot-62/ <Q> Looking at the spec, your bike has a double front chainring. <S> Are you shifting into the smallest front ring when climbing? <S> If not, then do so. <S> The single cheapest solution is to pace yourself by slowing down, harden up your muscles and climb at a rate that you can sustain. <S> This is the most economic option. <S> Is the grade steep enough that you physically can't ride it? <S> Consider taking an alternate route, or changing a straight climb into a series of switchbacks. <S> A 9 speed cassette is still available to buy - simply look for one with the biggest big cog and see how it goes. <S> You will need a new chain too. <S> Converting your existing cassette won't work if its a one-piece unit, or if the smallest cog is the lockring. <S> Example <S> http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-alivio-9-speed-cassette/ is a 11-34 tooth for quite cheap. <A> Using only 9 cogs of a 10 speed cassette will not work as the shifter throw (amount of cable pulled/released) is different between 9 and 10 speed systems. <S> Considerations: Derailleur Cage Length. <S> To go to 42 tooth set up you need to verify you have the long cage version of your Alivio derailleur. <S> Medium cage Shimano derailleurs typically can accommodate 37 tooth cogs <S> so you described system may have a medium cage derailleur and not work with a 42 tooth cog. <S> MBTR has a thread dedicated to 8/9 speed 42 tooth setups Here: <S> http://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/11-42-drivetrains-8-9-speed-finally-943575.html <S> Essentially, they use a One-Up 42 tooth cog (designed for 10 Speed Systems on a 9 Speed cassette and add the 9 speed spacer behind the cassette on the hub body and indicate it works with vintage XT Thumbshifters. <S> Caution: <S> The thread indicates they use the "ghost" position (click beyond the 8th gear of their 8 speed thumb shifter) so it may not work with your Alivio shifter <S> Another Caution: <S> https://www.oneupcomponents.com/pages/compatibility <S> indicates Shimano Alivio (CS-HG50-10), Deore (CS-HG62-10) and SRAM XX (XG-1099) <S> cassettes are not compatible with the OneUp adapter sprocket. <S> In these cases the purchase of a compatible cassette will also be necessary. <S> So to be frugal and mitigate risk, I would buy a new 9 speed cassette. <S> 9 Speed 11-36 cassettes are readily available which are guaranteed to work for about $50 USD and although it may not give your the gear inch reduction of a 42 you can rest assure there will not be any compatibility issues. <S> Another route would be to evaluate your front chain ring sizes. <S> Can they be reduced by a tooth or two? <A> There are two things that occur to me. <S> One is easy, which is buy one of the 11-40 9spd cassettes made by Sunrace or IRD. <S> Then, after making sure your RD has the total capacity <S> (it's 45t for RD-M4000, so you're seeing if the [large cog - small cog]+[large ring - small ring] number is equal or <S> less than 45) number required, you'll need to drop it down a little bit by either jacking in the b-tension screw, installing it in reverse and/or installing a longer one, or if needed using a derailer hanger extender, but I'm not exactly sure which one because none of them are made with this exact purpose in mind. <S> (Usually the longer screw is enough in my experience when playing these kinds of tricks, but only usually.) <S> I haven't done this <S> but I don't see a reason it wouldn't work. <S> Using 9 cogs off a 10-speed cassette isn't how this works, because the pitch will be wrong. <S> What else may be possible, and this is speculative, is starting with a fully non-spidered 10-speed 11-42 cassette, meaning where all the cogs are individual and there are spacers in between each cog, and replacing those spacers with appropriate width ones. <S> A bunch of different companies have made various cassette conversion spacers that work on this principle. <S> You may even be able to harvest some off a spent 9spd cassette. <S> As long as you can get the cog to cog spacing to be 4.35, it should index.
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The other idea is you could use one of the 42t cogs made for 10 speed and attempt to make the spacing play nice with 9 speed by using .4mm worth of shim spacers to adapt the 3.95 10spd pitch to 4.35mm 9spd. You can possibly buy a smaller front chainring too, that will leave the higher gears alone for faster/road usage, like downhills.
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Drivetrain wear -- questions on chain elongation and skipping Pitch (i.e. the distance between two links/two cogs) is a major issue in drivetrain wear, which explains why waiting too long to replace a chain may lead to premature cassette replacement. This being said, three questions: 1) What is the maximum chain elongation tolerated by a new cassette? 1.5%? 3%? Can you explain in some amount of detail? (intuitively I would think that the answer involves taking into account the difference in sprockets' radius at the bottom and near the top of a cog -- as chain pitch increases, it rides higher and higher on the cogs, up to the point where it is no longer gripped by the cog). 2) What is the maximum chain elongation at which a chain will skip on sprockets that have not been changed during the life of the chain? (intuitively I would think that the answer would be the same as above, or a tad lower - worn sprockets have deformed cogs, but the same principles apply). 3) Large sprockets last longer than smaller ones. Why? (intuitively I would think that wear is a function of the number of revolutions -- or distance/speed) <Q> According to Park Tools: A worn chain shifts poorly and wears sprockets at an accelerated rate. <S> The CC-3.2 is a go/ <S> no-go gauge designed to accurately indicate when a chain reaches .5% and .75%, the points at which most chain <S> manufacturers suggest replacement. <S> For 9 and 10-speed chains, replace chain just as the gauge fits the 0.75% side fits flat into the chain. <S> For 11 and 12-speed chain, replace as the 0.5% side fits. <S> The CC-3.2 is long, accurate and features permanent measurement markings. <S> The 0.5% - 0.75% answers when you should replace the chain but does not answer the max stretch before skipping. <S> so I would assume >= <S> 1.0% is the answer with the variance being attributed to the condition of the cog. <S> Checkout the link <S> and you will learn more than you can imaging on chain-cog engagement. <S> The best way to determine whether a chain is worn is by measuring its length. <S> A new half inch pitch chain will have a pin at exactly every half inch. <S> As the pins and sleeves wear, this spacing increases, concentrating more load on the last tooth of engagement as the chain rolls off the sprocket, thus changing the tooth profile. <S> When chain pitch grows over one half percent, it is time for a new chain. <S> At one percent, sprocket wear progresses rapidly because this length change occurs only between pin and sleeve so that it is concentrated on every second pitch; the pitch of the inner link containing the rollers remaining constant. <A> There are far too many variables: alloy composition, heat treatment, and surface finish of the various parts; size distribution, composition, and amount of dirt particles; how often the chain was lubricated; and so on. <S> Instead the industry has devised a practical rule-of-thumb measurement that works very well: the elongation percentage. <S> @dafew's answer describes that well. <S> On a personal note, let me add that chain skipping isn't the only danger of an elongated chain. <S> Once I had a BSO with a badly-worn chain. <S> I jumped on and started pedaling hard; the chain skipped and then caught, ripping several teeth off the cog, as I flew over the handlebars. <S> I ended up with some impressive bruises and road rash on my forearms. <S> As for why smaller cogs wear faster than larger cogs, consider a road bike with a 50-tooth front ring and an 11–32 cassette on the back. <S> On the 11, every turn of the crank will use each tooth 4.5 times. <S> On the 32, each turn of the crank will use each tooth 1.6 times. <S> The smaller cogs wear faster because they rotate more often. <A> 1) 0%. <S> New cassette means new chain unless its got no more than a week's riding or 100 km. <S> Whichever is less. <S> 2) Too variable to answer. <S> I've seen chains at well over 2% elongated still working " <S> okay" because rider was a granny and had little power. <S> 3) <S> Other answers cover this perfectly well.
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Regarding your second question about exactly how worn a chain has to be before it skips on sprockets that are also worn, I don't believe that a nice clean engineering analysis is possible, because you would need a specific wear model for both the sprocket and the chain. Sheldon Brown's site ( http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/chain-care.html ) indicates things get dramatically worse once the elongation reaches 1.0% because at that point it is every other link that is load bearing...
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Is there a work around to a presta valve not engaging a tire inflater pin? I believe that either the schrader adapter I'm using is too long or the pin for the presta core isn't long enough for me to be able to use an air compressor. It works fine with a floor pump since a pin doesn't need to be engaged for air to come out. But in my situation of trying to seat a new tire, a pump won't work. I've been searches to see if there are other valve stem adapters that allow this. <Q> You're using the wrong inflator valve on your compressor. <S> You're likely using this type of inflator valve (aka chuck). <S> Instead you need one of these types of inflator valves which have a manually activated release mechanism (the lever or trigger). <S> The advantage of these types is that they often have a built-in pressure gauge, such as the model on the right. <S> The gauges are not very accurate but are sufficient for eyeballing pressure. <S> If the valve on your compressor is not replaceable (because it's not your compressor, for example) then you can fill up a portable air tank with the compressor (these tanks have schrader valves) and then hook up your manual-style shrader valve inflator to them. <S> This is also a way to use a tiny little 12VDC electric tire inflator (such as in emergency kits) to build up enough pressure and air reserves to set tubeless tires. <S> It might take an hour to build up 5 gallons at 135psi (and you might burn out a tiny compressor, so you'd take it in chunks) but you'd have enough air to certainly set even a car tire. <S> [ Note that this tank has the type of schrader valve outlet that you don't want, but you can easily swap it out. <A> It's possible the Presta/Schrader adapter is too long <S> , I've come across a few steel finished ones a whole mil too long. <S> The brass finished ones have always worked for me, but I'd still compare length if you can get to a bike or auto parts store. <S> Likely easier to buy one than file the adapter you already have or putting something big enough to not damage the Presta head but small enough to not bite the inside of the adapter, like a smooth pebble, or a ball bearing. <S> Just make sure the Presta head is unscrewed enough to not bend the threaded part, and don't put so much pressure as to snap it off in there. <S> Some gas station compressors need to register air pressure already in the line before it will add pressure to that line. <S> Blowing air into the tube (sounds like you're seating a tubeless tire) <S> likely won't be enough. <S> Once I quickly "filled" my car tire with air to fill the line with pressure, then immediately pushed the chuck onto the totally flat bicycle tube valve. <A> YOU DO NOT NEED TO PRESS IN THE PRESTA <S> PIN <S> IN ORDER <S> TO INFLATE THE TIRE!! <S> AIR PRESSURE DOES IT, IF THE KNOB HAS BEEN UNSCREWED AND THE PIN PRESSED ONCE WITH YOUR FINGER, TO LOOSEN IT UP. <S> (Though you do need to somehow get air to come out of the Schrader chuck that's attached to the compressor, and some designs are not convenient in this regard.) <A> I think it has been established that the type of chuck you're using, needs the pin of an actual Schrader valve to press the center pin of the chuck for the chuck to release air. <S> If it's not acceptable to replace the chuck, try this - connect the Schrader adapter to a Schrader extender (available in auto parts stores... <S> I recommend the all metal variety) and install this onto the presta valve. <S> The pin in the extender may allow the chuck to release air. <S> Something like these: <A> Another option is to "help" the tubeless tyre seat by using a cargo strap/motorcycle tiedown/ratchet strop around the rolling circumference of the tyre. <S> Its a farm trick, but works okay on larger bike tyres. <S> This is a small tractor tyre having the same fix done to seat the bead while inflating. <S> On a bike tyre you might need to use tape to hold the strap in place - most other vehicles have a flatter profile for the strap to rest on.
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It requires the inner pin of the schrader valve of the tire to depress the inner pin of the chuck for the chuck to release air:
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Multimodal - Packing a bike for a trip with several different transport stages In few months we are going to visit Japan to cycle the 88 Temples pilgrimage there, and therefore we want to take our bikes with us. Neglecting the transport from home to the airport, I will need to carry the bikes first on the plane, and then from the airport to the starting point, either via train or bus, with the constraints that the bikes must be covered and shall not exceed certain dimensions, else they won't be ammitted on the transport (and the train/bus crew is very strict on the size fitting). I booked a direct flight to minimize handling at airport, but still I am not able to decide among the various options for packing them (taking for granted that the bikes will have the wheels removed and tightened to the frame before packing): Use two hard bags : Plus: good protection of the bike during the flight Minus: hard to store for the flight back, rather expensive, won't allow usage in-between in case we decide to take train or bus Use two soft bags covered with Fragile labels Plus: lightweight and easy to carry along, less expensive than hard bags, can be used also for taking the bikes on the train or bus no matter when it happens during the trip Minus: do airport operators care about "fragile" bags? Use cardboard boxes Plus: they come for free, good protection Minus: likely single use only, where to find a new pair of boxes in Japan (both bikes are XL, not really the common Japanese size), won't allow usage inbetween in case we decide to take train or bus. Talking with a friend who is often travelling on airplanes with his bike along, he always used a simple home-made soft bag with no labels, which led only to a bent derailleur gears after several trips. In my case the derailleur gears will be protected by the dissasmbled rear wheel, but I am still concerned about the carbon fork, which is not really keen to take strange impacts.Another one told me he found a kind local who accepted to keep his cardboard box at his place for the entire lenght of the trip, but I'd rather not count on lucky meetings to plan this trip. <Q> This is how I travelled with budget Wizzair from Malmoe to Warsaw: <S> Three bikes were wrapped with stretch foil, with almost no disassembly, just handlebar turned by 90 deg. <S> One bike was totally disassembled, including derailleur removal, and put in soft bicycle-bag. <S> No damages were observed. <A> I'd prefer a hard case myself, especially if the bikes are expensive. <S> The big advantage of cases is that most come with wheels, which is handy for making the trek from the airport to the hotel. <S> Regarding the cases, you can store them either at your hotel, hostel, or at the baggage storage services (which might get expensive for multiple days). <S> There are now hostels and hotels who cater to the bike crowd so you might want to explore using them. <S> For cardboard boxes , they might actually survive in good enough condition to use on the return trip. <S> Bring or buy lots of duct tape. <S> Transporting a bike box from place to place is a pain because they don't have wheels, be sure to also get a trolley: <S> And being a Brompton fanatic, I have to ask if you've considered a folder . <S> My Brompton fits in a custom hardcase that I bodged together in my workshop for less than 100 euro/dollars. <S> The beauty of folders is that you can declare them as "circus equipment" and not bicycles, so you don't get hit with the bicycle surcharge. <S> This is my brompton travelling as regular luggage in its case (no wheels, so I have to use a folding luggage cart like the above): <S> Finally, you have one other option: Rent a bike . <S> There are numerous bike rental places in Shikoku. <S> Japan has finally realized that bike touring is a thing and there are numerous bike shops, bike rental places, bike hostels, and so forth in Shikoku. <S> They may also be amenable to storing your case/bag/box. <A> Check with your air carrier, they may refuse liability for any bike not packed in a cardboard or hard sided bike case, which may limit your options, assuming that's something you care about: https://www.united.com/web/en-US/content/travel/baggage/sports.aspx <S> United is not liable for damage to bicycles that do not have the handlebars fixed sideways and pedals removed, handlebars and pedals encased in plastic foam or similar material, or bicycles not contained in a cardboard containers or hard-sided cases. <S> The one time I took my bike overseas (in a hard-sided case), I regretted it. <S> It's expensive ($200 each way on United) and inconvenient <S> -- I had a hard time finding a cab that could hold us and our two bikes (we ended up taking 2 cabs to our first night hotel, fortunately our hotel helped us find a larger cab to take us to the start of our biking journey) and we had to deal with lugging them around on the last few (non-biking) days of our trip. <S> A bike case takes a surprising amount of room in a small hotel room. <S> Now I spend some time researching quality bike rentals and only carry my pedals and helmet along. <S> It's much much more convenient. <S> And if for some reason we change our plans (like, say, due to a injury), we don't have to figure out what to do with our bikes. <S> A friend that does this regularly did that -- I think his bike is a Brompton. <S> It's a pretty decent bike, I've ridden on some century rides with him and <S> he has no trouble keeping up or doing the distance, so it seems like it would be a good option for travel, and <S> if it saves $400 per trip in oversize bag fees, it wouldn't take many trips to pay for itself.
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If you plan on multiple overseas bike trips, another option would be to get a quality folding bike that fits into a suitcase sized case.
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(Serious): Male genital protection for mountain biking/BMX and for common falls I want to start using a protection like a helmet for is for the head, but for my penis and testicles. Why is important? It would give me much more confidence when triying new tricks and tecniques to not fear my genitals will be hurt, simply falling in the wrong way could hurt me very bad. I shouldn't worry? Well I do and maybe others don't, however I'm not neither the best biker that never falls, neither I think nobody should put others to that standard. If others don't want it ok, I need it. <Q> Either of these can easily lead to some very uncomfortable chaffing problems. <S> For less "pedalcentric" disciplines this might be acceptable (flatland, downhill, etc). <S> But, for the rest of the market there just isn't a benefit to loss ratio to justify it. <S> Many other sports have genital protection equipment that is used regularly. <S> Like winter cyclists who have to use mountaineering equipment to stay warm, you may have to dip into some other sports equipment cache to accomplish / try what you are suggesting. <A> I struggled with that same question many years ago - and tried my share of products. <S> The difficulty is that anything large or hard enough to provide any real protection is always incompatible with a bike seat and / or the natural position of the rider. <S> Plastic products hurt like hell when sitting on and push to one side or another. <S> Too much padding causes numbness and discomfort. <S> About the best I've found are the padded lycra that roadies use - placed under my riding shorts. <S> It doesn't provide total protection, but certainly helps. <A> You can try wearing a jockstrap and cup , as is common in many other sports, but there's a good chance it'll prevent you from sitting properly on the saddle. <S> You can also try using the female version (called a "pelvic protector"), since those are made of foam rather than rigid plastic, and so might be better when you're pedaling. <S> You can also try swapping your bike seat for an Infinity Bike Seat to give room for the cup, but those seats are pretty expensive, currently starting at $170.
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Genital protection is rarely (if ever) used in cycling because it generally means putting some kind of hard surface in play (or excessive padding).
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what is the correct chain size for my bike I broke my chain and I am trying to find a new one to buy. I have tried looking though had no luck. I have a 2014 giant boulder with 3 at the front and 8 at the back. So all I need is a size. <Q> You need an 8 speed chain that is 3/32" wide. <S> This is a "normal" bicycle chain. <S> Often sold as a 6/7/8 speed. <S> This chain will be somewhere between 112 and 118 links long. <S> You also need the old chain to figure out how many links it had. <S> Lay them out side by side, and notice the old chain will appear to have longer links due to wear. <S> Figure out which pin on the new chain lines up with the <S> **same-number* of links on the old chain. <S> Then use a chain breaker tool to mostly-remove a pin and take off the excess links. <S> You might prefer to use a quicklink to rejoin the chain, or refit the pin that is mostly-out. <S> Do not bother getting a 9, 10 or 11 speed chain. <S> Its a waste of money for an 8 speed bike cassette. <S> However depending on the wear of your cassette, it may be worth replacing that too. <S> Old chains and old cassette wear together, and just replacing the chain may give you chainskip. <S> If that happens, time for a new 8 speed cassette. <A> EDIT POST <S> The video says that you have to pass the chain for the big chainring and the big sprocket. <S> Without going through the pulley wheels for rear derailleur. <S> This gives the basic measure. <S> If your bike has double or triple front chainrings, you must add a full link (internal link and external link) to basic measure (minute 1:16 in the video). <S> In case your bike has only one front chainring, you must add two full linlks (internal and external link) to basic measure <S> (minute 1:28 in the video) for those bikes that only carry a front chainring. <S> ORIGINAL POST <S> As the saying goes, 'a picture is worth more than a thousand words'. <S> In the video you can find the answer to how to measure the length of the string. <S> As well as how to carry out the entire process. <S> I am not related in any way, neither with the store nor with the creators of the video. <S> Best regards Good luck! <A> The chain width is the most critical factor. <S> Chains will almost assuredly be long enough out of the box and will need to be cut to length. <S> It is more than a matter of a 9, 10, or 11 speed being a waste of money - the wrong chain width may not work properly for your bike. <S> Now, as far as the length goes, Criggie is correct, the easiest way <S> (if you trust the previous installer) is to compare against your previous chain. <S> However, if you loose your chain on a trail (as I have), all is not lost. <S> You should never use this combination when riding so the fit will cause the dérailleur to be fairly tight. <S> On the other end (little ring to little ring), your dérailleur should still keep tension in your chain. <S> If it doesn't you may not have a long enough dérailleur or its tensioning needs increased. <S> Putting the chain back on can be tricky if it doesn't contain a master link. <S> One technique that I've learned over the years it to use a wire tie to hold the chain together while wrestling with my chain tool. <S> If you do have to use a chain tool to push the pin in - the chain in that area will not articulate well. <S> Bending it side to side (yes, side to side), will loosen it up. <S> Good luck to you.
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With a three ring in front, your chain should barely be long enough to fit on the largest ring in the front and the largest ring in the back. It is important that you ask your retailer for an 8-speed chain.
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What is an asymmetric wheel and why would you use it? Campagnolo advertises the Khamsin Asymmetric Wheel: What is an asymmetric wheel and (given that we expect wheels to be symmetrical), why would one want an asymmetrical one? How is it related to dish? <Q> The "asymmetric wheel" terminology is a little misleading. <S> This particular wheel has an asymmetric rim . <S> Any bike with a rear derailer setup will have an asymmetric rear wheel, because the gears take up space. <S> The usual way to handle this is that the spokes on the gear side have less of an angle (closer to vertical) than on the non-gear side. <S> (That is, they have different dish angles) <S> Since an angled spoke also pulls outward slightly and the horizontal forces need to balance, the gear side spokes also have higher tension. <S> That more vertical angle and higher tension makes the gear side weaker. <S> Combined with pedaling force tending to apply more on the gear side, the most common spoke failure is on the gear side of the rear wheel. <S> In other words: the gear side of the rear wheel is the limiting factor in the strength/lightness balance when engineering and building a rear wheel. <S> When a rear rim is asymmetric, what that usually means is that they've moved the line that the spokes all connect into away from the gears. <S> This allows the angle to be slightly further from vertical while forcing the non-gear side a bit closer to vertical. <S> That is, both sides will have closer to the same spoke angle. <S> That means that the tension on both sides can be closer to matching. <S> Having the dish angle and tension closer to matching allows for the hub and spokes to be stronger and/or lighter. <S> (but may require strengthening the rim slightly) <A> The wheel itself is not asymmetric, but the rim is. <S> The reason for this is that the cassette hub itself is asymmetric, and shifting the spoke attachment at rim allows more even spoke tension. <S> The clear benefit of even tension is durability. <S> On one hand, peak tension and associated stresses are reduced, on the other hand loose spokes cause problems and increased minimum tension reduces those. <S> Efficiency and reactivity are marketing speak, but surely appeal to buyers. <S> Dish is another term for asymmetric spoke angle and tension. <S> The asymmetric rim allows less dish for same hub and rim dimensions. <A> Both answers are correct but I want to add a bit more. <S> If you look at the photo, you'll notice that it is cross-spoked on the drive side but radially spoked on the non-drive side. <S> This feature can also be seen below in combination with asymmetric spoke construction. <S> Both the lacing and spoke construction are asymmetric (steel on the drive side and carbon on the non-drive side): <S> So the question is, what is it good for? <S> Probably not much. <S> In theory a radially laced wheel can be built with shorter spokes (and thus be made lighter) but the benefits in this respect are marginal. <S> As an owner of a Khamsin wheelset, I can confirm that it also makes the process of truing the wheel more complex. <S> Additionally with a dished rear wheel, the spoke tension on the drive side is much higher than on the non-drive side (and <S> presumably the nature of the load is quite different as well) <S> so it makes sense that using dissimilar materials might give some kind of weight or stiffness benefit but the benefits are likely to be very small.
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The asymmetric in the title also refers to the spoke lacing of the wheel. In conclusion then, it's probably just another way for bike companies to sell expensive gear to people who prefer shopping to training.
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Chain skipping despite new cassette and chain My chain keeps skipping loudly. Replacing the cassette and chain had no effect. I also zeroed the derailleur to the 5th gear of the cassette and it shifts smoothly. I have also replaced all ball-bearings and assorted fittings at suspension joints. The freehub seems to work properly. I feel it may be due to frame flex, since I ride a full suspension MTB (poison bikes) and it has noticeable frame flex when pedaling. Undesired gearshifting happens when I turn. I have replaced aluminum washers at the main suspension joint near the bottom bracket several times and this solves the problem for about three months. Has anyone experienced this and have another idea how this can be fixed permanently? Details: 27 gear MTB, full suspension UPDATE: Jan 9th: I replaced a washer in the Suspension tightening it up a bit and reducing Frame Flex but the problem persists albeit slightly improved. Based on Responses here I have been watching the chain and noticed that it sometimes bunches up when coasting (not pedalling) -- it seems that the cassette keeps moving despite the pedals being stationary. <Q> I had a similar problem with my road bike. <S> I replaced the cassette and it still skipped. <S> I replaced the chain and it still skipped. <S> Finally, I changed the rings and it worked perfectly. <S> The rings looked only slightly worn <S> but I think one or two of the teeth were shortened slightly through excess use. <S> I saved the rings just for a side-by-side comparison with future rings. <A> Just check that the handlebars haven't got spun 360 and got the cables wound round the headset. <S> Some guy just randomly crashed over his handlebars outside my house without hitting anything and with nothing apparently wrong with his bike. <S> As I was wheeling it away <S> I noticed that when you steered to the left, it pulled the font brake on. <S> What had happened was he'd ridden to the shops, left his bike outside on the floor and as he picked it up spun the handlebars round. <S> Everything worked perfectly but when you steered to the left more than a fraction it caused the cable for the front disc to get tightened just enough to pull the brake on. <S> As you say it happens when turning, it might be something like this? <A> Bikes shops said "the freewhell is hardly ever the cause" as they rung me up $50 for new a chain and cassette. <S> Glad its fixed and my 10-year old full suspension MTB is back to being awesome. <S> Thanks for all your advice!
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Well, contrary to the advice of 5 bike shops (who I guess were mostly interested in selling me another chain and cassette), i replaced the freewheel assembly and the problem was instantly solved.
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What are the benefits of going from 25mm to 28mm tire? I went from a 23mm to 25mm tires on my '07 Tarmac Expert. The change was a blessing as I was able to do everything with more confidence. A part of it was for going from Gatorskins to Grand Prix 4000s II. Now that my Grand Prix are about to be worn out, I'm considering to going to 28mm versions. I know that my frame and brake callipers can clear the tire, however I'm not sure if I will gain any major benefits. I do a lot of climbin and try to stay off the flats. <Q> Here are some benefits: <S> less chance of snakebite flats increased ride comfort on rough terrain less frequent tire inflation to maintain pressure (because of greater volume of air) <S> ability to carry greater weight <A> The 28mm tyres take a larger inner-tube and the tyres are heavier than their 25mm equivalent. <S> Benefit you would gain from 28mm - would be grip and comfort due to a wider contact patch and larger volume. <A> I use 28mm in the winter when the roads around here in New England get bad. <S> The roads are sometimes a combination of wet, sandy, and some patches of ice. <S> The wider tires seem to help. <S> I have more contact with the road I feel. <S> I recall hearing during the TdF commentary a few years back that on raining days the riders lessen their tire pressure in order to increase the contact area between the road and tire. <S> I figure that a 28mm does that for me all the time. <S> and I can't get the tire on the frame fully inflated. <S> The 28mm are so wide that they will not fit through my brakes if the tires is fully inflated. <S> Someone asked above why one would need to inflate 28mm tires any less. <S> I find this is the case for me. <S> I attribute it to the tube containing more air so any air I do loose overnight is less noticeable. <S> Essentially I get away with topping off my tires less often.
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The wider softer tires help with shock absorption with the holes that start to form in the road. A couple of drawbacks of 28mm are the rolling resistance is a little more If you're climbing a lot than the other consideration is weight of tyre and tube.
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Can the length of disc brake hose influence braking power? I recently installed new brakes (Shimano SLX 675), shortened hoses for front/rear brake, done bleeding but even after that rear brake lever feels much softer than front. (I had identical issue with old brakes (M446) which acted in the same way and that is partially the reason for asking this question). New brakes work fine, they have nice stopping power, there are no signs of oil leaking etc... It is just that rear brake lever feels much softer (and I don't think it is due to lever reach adjustment; it isn't nearly reaching handlebar). Can the longer length of disc brake hose (rear breake) influence the 'feel' while braking (assuming brakes are correctly installed and working properly) or there is something else causing this 'problem'? <Q> This sounds like an incomplete bleed. <S> If you hang your bike vertically, try pulling the rear brake lever after it has sat overnight (front wheel up). <S> if it feels extra bad that confirms it. <S> Or if you notice that the brake feels better after a few 'pumps'. <S> That said, I had noticed with my SLX brakes that the front and rear had a different 'feel' possibly. <S> Not that they acted differently at all, but felt different through the stroke of the lever. <S> I thought it was possible <S> it was the factory bleed, which wouldn't be the case for you, but perhaps there is something to it. <S> Or possibly a difference in friction in the Pistons in the caliper or lever somehow. <S> On my Jamis dragon actually (separate M675 from above), I think the front brake ended up with too much oil from the factory bleed on the front. <S> I couldn't get the pads open enough to not rub the disc. <S> I put a bleed block in the caliper and opened the bleed screw on the lever and that pressure alone pushed a bunch of oil out. <S> I closed it up and everything worked as it should have. <S> Possibly something similar has happened in your case, but too little oil? <S> (this could happen if the Pistons were too far retracted in caliper/lever not fully open during bleed) <S> side notes: <S> Also some bikes have a larger front rotor. <S> And never rule out quality control. <A> Rear hydraulic brakes are always a little bit softer feeling than fronts. <S> My understanding of the reason is that the hose isn't 100% unable to bulge, the system is never 100% free of air, and/or the fluid isn't 100% unable to compress, despite all those numbers being close too 100, so the more hose and more fluid you have, the more softness creeps into the brake feel. <S> How I would approach it is ask if you were judging the rear brake feel independently of the front, when squeezing hard and fairly fast, does it give you that moment of firmness, where the free movement of fluid in the system has clearly been taken up <S> and now you're squeezing against the flex/compression-resistant aspect of the system? <S> Or does it transition straight to mush without a good moment of firmness? <S> That's the symptom of a brake you should at least try bleeding. <A> The length of same braking hose should not influence braking power. <S> The material that hose is made from can influence braking power and/or modulation. <S> If braking hose is poor quality or damaged, it can swell, expand. <S> As a result, your braking pump has to push liquid not only to push brake cylinder, but also to fill enlarged hose volume.
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There's a mechanical skill/judgment call involved sometimes in being able to differentiate between normal rear brake feel and slight air contamination, and sometimes brakes wind up being bled because someone decided to be on the safe side. Of course the front lever is going to provide more stopping power as it has greater mechanical advantage.
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How to fix a seized V-Brake arm? I was checking the brake pads on my bicycle and I noticed one of the arms seems to be seized: It's this arm (I hope that's the right technical term). It will move but it's very stiff and when I use the brakes the other arm is doing all the work. I did a search of the site and this seems a common problem but I couldn't find a simple explanation of how to fix it. Do I just undo the hex bolt at the end, apply grease and hope I can put it all back together? If so are there any I wish I hadn't done that pitfalls to avoid? If it's relevant this is a town bike, a hybrid , rather than a true mountain bike so it's not a performance machine. <Q> V-brakes aren't too complicated but there are a few things to watch out for: you need quite a lot of torque to undo the bolt <S> the spring may make it fall apart sooner than you expect - hold on as you undo <S> make sure all the parts go back in the right order - take care as you dismantle. <S> Work with a tray underneath to catch anything that falls. <S> Once you've taken it to bits, clean all the muck and loose rust off the parts, the grease and reassemble. <S> You'll probably need to do the other arm as well, and may need to adjust the return spring screws. <S> Obviously don't get grease or greasy hands on the pads. <A> Your brake pads are worn down. <S> As a result, you've had to cinch down on the brake cable so much that there's almost no brake movement possible. <S> Then release the brake cable by unscrewing the hex bolt on the very top of your stuck arm. <S> When you release the brake cable, the brake arm should rotate outwards. <S> Once it's loose, you might want a final shot of a telfon lubricant as WD-40 dries up. <S> Then replace the pads on both sides. <S> Then put the brake cable onto the hex nut from #1. <S> You'll notice that you will have to give it much more cable than previously. <S> Then look at various youtube videos for final adjustment. <S> I warn against trying to remove the brake arm itself from the frame. <S> There's a spring that keeps tension against the frame and when that goes sproing, it's a bit of a pain getting it back on. <S> Now there's a good chance that your brake spring itself has broken/stuck and in that case <S> , you have to replace the entire brake assembly. <S> The good news is that you have relatively inexpensive brakes. <S> The bad news is that it's just a bit fiddly to get the springs in properly to get the tension you want. <A> Chris H's answer pretty much nailed it, but I'd like to add an answer to capture useful points made in the comments. <S> The job turned out to be really simple and the only tools needed were an allen key and a piece of old pipe. <S> I tried getting penetrating oil into the bush without taking off the arm, but after two days it had little effect <S> so I had to take the arm off. <S> As Chris said, the bolt was really, really tight. <S> In the end I put a piece of pipe over the end of the allen key and the extra leverage did the trick. <S> Getting the arm off the pivot was a bit hard, but I just wiggled it to and fro whilst pulling for about five minutes and it eventually came off. <S> It didn't any great force, just a lot of patience. <S> On my bike the spring is secured to the back of the arm so nothing dropped off or came apart when I took the arm off. <S> Compton warned me to check which of the three holes the spring was attached to, but of course the spring came free before I could check. <S> However it was obvious which hole the pin on the spring needed to go in as trying the other two holes made the spring tension obviously wrong. <S> And that's all there was to it. <S> I rubbed the pivot clean with some wire wool. <S> I didn't have a tool to get at the inside of the bush in the arm <S> so I just pulled a cloth through it to clean it as much as I could. <S> I put a small amount of lithium grease on the pivot, refitted them and it now works perfectly.
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Use this opportunity to try to loosen it up by shooting in some WD-40 to flush the rust/grit and rotating it in and out a few dozen times until it's loose. The first thing you need to do is get new brake pads. The bolt should be tight.
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New Park Tool truing stand doesn't seem to be calibrated, calibration seems off out of box I recently purchased a Park Tool TS-2.2 truing stand, however I feel that the calibration is off. I have a wheel that was recently trued at my LBS and there is a significant gap between the rim and the caliper on the right side. Assuming a trued wheel is on the stand, shouldn't BOTH calipers be set so that they meet the rim at the same time? I assume the point to having calipers on both sides is so that you can true both sides of the rim at the same time, right? Is it most likely the calipers are off or the arms that hold the wheel off? Has anyone came up with a cheaper way to calibrate these things? I think it is ridiculous how much Park Tool wants for their centering tool... <Q> The caliper is for measuring lateral warp or wobble and radial eccentricity(wheel hop) <S> Only one side of the caliper is needed at any one time, the reason the 2.2 has two sides is that it is sometimes more convenient to adjust to the left and other times to the right especially if you want to improve a slight dish issue while straightening a wobble. <S> Also some folks like to work from the high spot side and others prefer the low spot side. <S> In the high production shop I worked (I'd do about 40 rims per shift, and there were 4 wheel stations) <S> we often bungeed, or jammed with a small wrench/stick, one side of the caliper wide open to make inserting the wheels faster. <A> The Park centering tool is just a symmetric piece of metal that fits into the truing stand. <S> If you have a true wheel you can use that just as well. <S> If you are concerned about the dish of the wheel, flip the wheel to make sure it doesn't matter which way you put it into the stand. <S> The centering can be adjusted with the caliper arm lock nuts (according to Park <S> this should only be done if you're moving by 3 mm or less). <S> These are the silver colored nuts at the base of the caliper arm visible in your photo. <S> To adjust them loosen one side and then tighten the opposing side by an equal amount. <S> Do this in half or quarter turns. <S> See the instructions at Park Tool's website for pictures and more information: http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/ts-2-2-and-ts-2-centering <A> I have the Park TS2.2 for home use and out of the three total of these jigs I have used, two consistently need recalibration for every wheel-given the Park calibration tool does not correspond to my axle widths (never mind rim ones) and any movement of the calipers seems to throw centering out,requiring constant movement of the sliding calipers to compensate <S> -I now have an engineering company making me a calibration tool to my axle/rim specifications- <S> the Park dishing tool is again very annoying to use having a poor quality dropping slider which is difficult to use and constantly drifts-therefore I prefer to achieve dish in the jig and verify only with the dishing tool. <S> Following on from this..the new tool is a replica of the Park tool but with 145mm axle and 35mm rim widths... <S> have now found that the screw-thread in the caliper adjusting knob is loose thereby enabling excessive play and destabilising the calipers once trued... <S> so now have an engineering company rectifying this issue.
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The 2.2 is not for directly measuring dish, a shop will use a proper dish measuring tool(for time and repeatability) and there are techniques for the home gamer that lacks a dish tool that involve flipping the wheel over in the stand and noting the difference.
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Mystery puncture -- caused by inner end of ice spike? I had to change my back tube yesterday and couldn't find anything by eye or by feel on the inside of the tyre, by eye on the outside (it's a schwalbe winter so you can't find anything except its own spikes by running it through your hands). The rim and rim tape were also clean. Several of the spike bases showed signs of wear on the inside of the tyre, in one case there were threads showing. By the time I found that I'd taken the tube out, so I just covered it and put a new tube in. I haven't yet patched the tube (I do them in batches to save the glue drying up on the shelf) but there was no visible damage (or hissing with everything still on the bike). The tyre had held pressure for a week before feeling low on Saturday and being confirmed on Sunday, so I'm not inclined to blame grit in the valve. The tyres only have ~1000km on them, last winter and some of this winter. They've lost a few studs but the tread looks as new. They've only been used on tarmac (a few spots on my route are prone to black ice). They've also only been run close to the max pressure, as recommended for hard surfaces. I'd be happy to dismiss it as bad luck, but if this is an issue I'll fit tyre liners next time I mount these tyres So: Can the inner end of ice spikes wear through the casing to cause punctures? <Q> The conclusion from the comments was that this is possible -- possibly the threads abrading the tube. <S> To be on the safe side I'll cover that point with a patch or liner next winter. <A> I have had eight Schwable Marathon tires. <S> On one of these, the studs came through the casing several places and caused punctures after about 1000 km. <S> Several of my other tires ran about 4000 km without this problem occuring. <A> With my Schwalbe marathon I got 2 flats this month because the back part of the stud cut of the tyre and punctured the tube. <S> I'm sure thats the reason because the cut is clearly visible and matches the inner part of the stud perfectly. <S> I ride mostly tarmac and high pressure (usualy around 0.3-0.4 atm under the maximum allowed presure). <S> Probably by hard braking or steep turn(I avoid them but commute rides sometimes pushes you to do such stuff) <S> the stud got pushed by the tarmac or stone and hot having other place to go just cut the tyre. <S> I bought them this winter and did around 1800-1900 km <S> and I clearly see how every stud "head" made a small "bump" inside the tyre <S> so I assume more punctures are about to come.
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I plan to put my old inner tube between the new one and the studs hopefully this will protect the tube till its time for summer tyres
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Does anyone know the age of this Legnano Bike? Does anyone know the age of this Legnano Bike? The frame number reads FC670 Thank you to everyone thats replied. I now nothing of the history of the bike or Legnanos in general tbh and certainty wouldn't know about originality of it. The crank is a double ring, which is manual to change which I've not seen before. 60's frame with 70's bits maybe?? <Q> according to this site: http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/Legnano/serial_numbers.htm Can't be too sure, but i would guess it's manufactured around early sixties. <S> Probably 61 or 62. <A> <A> Downtube shifters, sissy levers for braking from the tops, frame pump mounting pegs. <S> Now, I can't clearly see the transmission area, but it looks like a single front chainring with no front derailleur. <S> This means one of Someone's swapped parts about. <S> Also note the cheap and nasty plastic pedals, which are totally not original. <S> OR <S> It is old enough that a 1x system was used, which says it predates the "ten-speed" craze of the 70s.
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Starting the serial number with FC, it is from 1963, according to this Blog All this suggest no newer than the 80s. That seat post is also not original.
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Replace or patch inner tubing? I'm 16 this year and I commute to school on a regular basis on a second-hand Urata Avanteguarde (about 2-3 years old.) I kept getting flats on my rear tire, but by the time I has isolated the problem to a needle sized puncture in my inner tubing, I had already torn my tire beyond repair. I've already bought a replacement tire, but i wonder if it is completely necessary to replace the inner tubing? If not, what are the risks of doing so ? I am relatively new to road bikes, so I do apologise in advance if there is anything I'm missing out, or if this is a stupid question in general. <Q> Some terminology first. <S> TUBE is the doughnut-shaped ring that holds the air (inner tube) <S> TYRE/TIRE is the bit with the tread, and on your bike this holds the tube in place. <S> So you got several punctures in the tube caused by something sharp in the tire <S> You damaged the tire somehow and have a replacement. <S> Now you've removed the sharp thing from the tire, and you want to know if the tube needs replacing ? <S> ANSWER <S> Probably not. <S> If the tube holds the air pressure its fine. <S> If the tire has worn tread (ie to the point you're through the rubber and riding on the threads, or if it feels really thin to your fingers) <S> or if the tire has a cut or significant hole, then replace it. <S> I'd recommend you throw a spare tube in your schoolbag, along with a mini-pump and tire levers if you need them, and a tool for your axle nuts if required. <S> This will let you change tube on the side of the road, and patch it at home later. <S> Replacing the rear tyre should reduce the frequency of punctures too. <S> The rear wheel suffers punctures about twice as fast as the front wheel. <S> Also, you might consider avoiding things that generate punctures too - which means not hopping kerbs/curbs, not bouncing through potholes, and going around patches of glass on the road/cycleway. <A> If the puncture is small, you could try patching it. <S> You should always check if there are any more punctures and patch them all. <S> This is, of course, unless there are just too many, and then yes, you should change the tubes. <S> The inner tubes are what actually hold the air pressure, so if it has punctures, they must be patched. <A> Since you're new to this, and already got a replacement tire, I'd suggest you also replace the tube to get them both a fresh start. <S> Inner tubes are reasonably cheap. <S> Be sure to clean the rims well prior to installation. <S> Run your fingers through gently inside to feel for any sharp edges, cover the inside of the rim to prevent spokes from poking the tube as this is a common possibility . <S> You can still repair the old tube to keep as a spare.
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You can also get a more sturdy, somewhat less puncture prone tube if you'd like.
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How does Google Maps estimate cycling times Google Maps has a bicycling routing option in beta. It does seem to do a good job routing in my town by using streets with bike lanes where possible and avoiding going up steep inclines directly. But I'm curious how it estimates travel time. For cars, it seems to use the speed limit with a proprietary fudge factor that uses historical and current traffic conditions. But for bicycles, what is it using to estimate travel time? There's considerable spread in terms of speed between the fastest Strava PR (personal record) seekers and the slowest bike moms with trailers - maybe even as great as 2-3x difference. Has anyone figured out what the algorithm seems to be doing in terms of cycling times? Does it take into account the user's own cycling speed? Has Google said anything re: this? <Q> This site seems to have some good answers to your questions. <S> It says Google assumes a baseline moving speed of around 16km/hr (10miles/hr) regardless of trip distance. <S> but if you read more you can see there are adjustments to that baseline. <S> For some routes where I've actually compared, I divide the Google cycling time by 1.5 to get an estimate of how long it would take me, but I used to race pretty seriously. <A> The answer given by gammapoint is surely a nice estimate to take into account when looking at Google Maps. <S> However, as being rather close to Google through <S> Top Contributor and Local Guides <S> programmes (although not being an employee), I can almost surely tell: We'll never know. <S> Unless, of course, you get yourself hired in that specific department in Google. <S> The algorithms used by Google to estimate cycling time are based on many factors. <S> Supposedly some of the are (the list below is nothing official, so no sources): elevation junctions (traffic lights or without) quality and type of infrastructure other users' times on similar routes <S> All answers on the internet will be based on estimates on specific direction queries and will try to obtain some results from comparing different or similar routes. <S> Yet, using even bigger data to estimate behaviour of complex algorithms is difficult to the point I'll say impossible. <S> Provided Google is using neural networks or possibly even more sophisticated algorithms, such analysis is pointless. <S> I'm sorry, but to find out your speed compared to Google estimates, you need to run the tests by yourself . <A> Google and other traffic providers like Here (nokia) exchange traffic data, which is crowdsourced from cellphones. <S> If you're plotted at 5 different points along a know main road and your average speed is 50 km/h there's a decent chance its smooth-flowing vehicle traffic. <S> If you're riding at a snappy 30 km/h, then it could look like slow traffic. <S> So your results get compared with other vehicles on the same road and direction at about that time. <S> If you're roughly keeping up with the vehicles, then your trip could be detected as a car ride. <S> I don't know how the apple ecosystem does it, but if you use android and google services, then visit https://www.google.com/maps/timeline to explore your locations and your day's travel. <S> Some of the travel segments could be detected as a walk, a bike ride, a train, or a car. <S> You can correct this info too, if you see fit. <S> Here's the google timeline screen showing three different modes of transport, walking, cycling, and car. <S> Also shows a wrong guess in grey <S> (we didn't stop walking at the hospital, we just walked past it.) <S> Now all this information is available to google, Average speed of cyclists on a given road Your average speed over time <S> I can generally travel a route in half to 2/3 of the predicted time. <A> With respect to your last paragraph/question, I get the same route and (slow) timings whether or not I'm logged in, but I have quite strict privacy settings on my Google account (in particular location history is disabled) <S> and I don't log rides in anything that uses Google maps (my Android bike computer app - IPbike - uses openstreetmap). <S> If your settings and use of Google apps are different to mine you may want to run a test yourself logged in vs. a fresh browser profile.
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But google's map/routing engine doesn't use it, instead its just an average speed of the average cyclist over all roads.
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Center motor ebike costs more, is it worth it? I am 90% sure that I will buy an e-bike. Today one of my friends who owns an ebike strongly suggested that I should buy one with center motor, because they are more efficient and battery life will be longer. Where I live ebikes with center motor costs three times more than ebikes I found before . Will it worth to buy a center motor ebike even it is more expensive? <Q> Yes, in general mid-drive bicycles are better than hub drive. <S> There are technical reasons and economic reasons. <S> Hub-drive motors can only be optimized for one-speed (although some 2-speed hub drives have emerged). <S> Furthermore, the pedelec sensors on mid-drive can be more sophisticated in measuring torque rather than just rotational speed. <S> This is because their location on the bottom bracket makes torque measurement easier. <S> Hub-drives usually rely on just a magnetic crank speed sensor. <S> However, note that not all mid-drives measure torque - and some better hub-drives do swap out the bottombracket and put in torque sensors. <S> In terms of weight and balance, the mid-drive is better located . <S> You want your weight to be low and in the middle. <S> However, geared hub-drives are also getting lighter and smaller. <S> Furthermore, the battery is often the heaviest component and so battery placement itself is critical. <S> The best units have the battery behind the seat-stem or in the lower part of the main triangle. <S> Finally, there are non-technical reasons why mid-drive is better. <S> There are only a few mid-drive manufacturers that are extant: Bosch and Bafang <S> (I'm leaving out Panasonic, Yamaha, and Shimano mid-drives as they aren't commonly available outside Japan). <S> This means if you get a mid-drive, you're getting it from a well-known company that has a strong reputation (Bosch much more so than Bafang). <S> Your mid-drive bike above looks like a Bosch <S> but it has its markings removed and the store website doesn't have any details <S> -- so you might want to ask and avoid it if it isn't Bosch or Bafang. <S> Hub-drive motors on the other hand are made by a wide variety of companies . <S> So unless you know the company's reputation, you are taking a risk. <S> You're much more likely to get a no-name hub motor with a no-name controller. <S> Finally, note that the Bosch, Panasonic, Yamaha, and Shimano mid-drive systems all require specially designed bicycle frames (bottom brackets). <S> This means that the bicycles are much more expensive. <S> Bafang mid-drive and all hub-drives can be bolted onto any OEM bike frame so they are much less expensive. <A> trying for a generic answer not a shopping comparison <S> Your bike will be more stable with weight low and centered. <S> A hub motor puts all its weight on the wheel that it is installed inside. <S> This will shift the front/rear weight balance which should be 40-45% front and 55-60% on the rear wheel <S> I had a home-brew ebike with 3 heavy SLA batteries. <S> When 2 were on the rear rack it was easy to slide the rear wheel and the bike was wobblier. <S> So I moved the weight to the lowest part of the main triangle and it got much better for handling, despite adding a third battery. <S> So yes, moving the weight low and centered will help the riding experience, all other things being equal. <S> Its never that simple though. <S> There will likely be differences between the overall quality of the bike, motor, and batteries. <S> The BMS may vary. <S> Even the underlying bike quality will vary somehow. <S> Ebikes are still bikes and have bike componentry. <S> The final point is your comfort vs your commitment. <S> If you find one or the other more comfortable then that should be high on the list of priorities. <S> An uncomfortable bike doesn't get used as much. <A> A bigger factor is getting a bike that fits and suits your preferred riding position, which is worse for e-bikes than many everyday bikes. <S> This may override your preferred motor placement. <S> This is especially true if you're not very close to average height. <S> It's not just at the low end of the market that you find one-size-fits-none e-bikes, or at least bikes where the specs suggest they should suit a certain person but <S> a prolonged ride proves otherwise. <S> Many e-bikes use non-standard components, reducing your ability to change the geometry. <S> Examples <S> I've had to deal with: Handlebars and/or grips <S> have to accomodate controls and wiring, and brake levers often have a motor cutoff switch. <S> To rewire onto new bars would mean splicing the electronics even once you'd found things that fit. <S> The stem might also be customised to mount electronics <S> If the battery pack is mounted behind the seat tube, an unusual saddle and post may be used (e.g. flip-up). <S> You may be able to swap this out but <S> if you're at the short end of the bike's size range your preferred components can conflict with the battery. <S> The choice of gearing can be restricted as the rear hub may not be compatible with a wide range of cassettes and the crankset design is modified to include a torque/cadence switch for automatic assistance so you can't necessarily swap out the chainring(s). <S> So test any candidate bikes well <S> -- make sure you can test enough to get up to full speed (even beyond when the motor cuts out if there's an upper speed limit for assistance).
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The more expensive bike should have better levels of componentry and will likely weigh less. Technically, mid-drive can be more efficient as they can take advantage of the rear derailleur or internal-gear hub to work at optimal speed.
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Servicing a Vuelta XRP Disc Hub I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the freehub body off of this hub. Everything I can find online about the Vuelta hubs says that I should be able to stick a 5mm hex key into both sides of the axle and just loosen them, but this hub only has hex on the drive side. When I try to loosen that, only the non-drive side nut comes off. This is a 2014 Vuelta XRP wheel. Thanks for any advice. Update: The second part of Nathan's answer was correct. When I put a 5mm wrench in the axle on the drive side as well as a cone wrench on the not lockring on that side I was able to remove the nut. <Q> I don't have specific experience with this one, but the pictures suggest it works one of two ways: From where you're at now <S> , you bonk the end of the axle on the non-drive sufficiently hard and the axle slides out, possibly taking the freehub with it, or if not then letting it be removed. <S> I think this is more probable. <A> I just did this hub yesterday. <S> Used 17mm cone wrench <S> and I think 5mm allen on drive side at same time. <S> Cone wrench held in place and allen (attached to axle) turns CW as if tightening. <S> Loosens up <S> and then you spin the nut right off. <S> I was only servicing the free hub <S> so did not work to free axle from hub which likely takes a hit with mallet. <A> I actually don't have first hand experience with the Vuelta hub but based on this video Video of Removing a Vuelta Hub Cassette Body and your pictures <S> I would predict that you need to use a cone wrench on the drive side and a 6mm hex inside the non-drive side axel to loosen the freehub body <A> I think you are all not correct. <S> The freehub may actually be bolted onto the hub and the bolt head is inside the hub with the threads going into the freehub. <S> I have a Vuelta <S> Pro XRP wheelset and getting my freehub off was a project. <S> You have to get the axle out, first, and that is done by tapping the non-drive bearing out by tapping on the drive-side axle (be gentle). <S> After the non-driver bearing and axle are out, you can access the bolt head that holds the freehub onto the hub. <S> For this you need a 12mm hex driver (Allen wrench), which is very hard to find. <S> I found one on Amazon; They had it to me by nightfall. <S> Insert the Allen wrench into the hub from the non-drive side. <S> You’re going to need an extender on the short end of the Allen wrench, to get some leverage. <S> That’s all there is to it. :-) <S> It’s the stupidest design that they could possibly come up with, really. <S> When you’re putting the bearings back on, use a large washer and a large socket to “tap” the bearings in evenly and straight. <S> Again, gently and far enough in to anchor the axle, but not bind the bearings. <S> Good luck and curse freely; it helps.
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You put the 5mm allen in the drive side end and a cone wrench on the bit with the cone wrench flats next to it, figure out if it's a left or right thread, break that connection and unscrew it, and the hub comes apart that way.
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Cycling into tunnels with claustrophobic person you are cycling in pair you may need to travel through tunnels (lenght can vary from few hundreds meter to about 7 kilometers) your travelmate is claustrophobic, therefore tunnels are a challenge for him avoiding the tunnel is not always a practical option (it may need a 50 km detour) Under these conditions, which would be the best approach to prevent as much as possible issues like panic attack, irrational behaviours etc.? <Q> This is how we did it, for all tunnels longer than 150 meters (ranging from 200 meters to 4 km): before the entrance of the tunnel, the leader slows down or even stop, allowing the follower to get closer after entering the tunnel with lights on, regardless if there is a cyclable sidewalk or not, every once in a while the leader ring once his bell if the follower feels ok with the leader's distance/pace, he rings back once. <S> Else, he rings back twice. <S> The follower can also ring twice whenever he feels he should get closer. <S> The benefit we got: <S> no need for the leader to turn his head and look back <S> the follower feels actually in control and not left alone <A> I know someone who suffers panic attack on bridges so it would be a similar situation. <S> A good workaround is to push really hard physically in these times, e.g. do a sprint race in tunnels (or bridges). <S> The rush of adrenaline annihilates the panic and shift the focus to the body effort instead of the environment. <S> Worth a try? <A> Have you thought of riding a tandem and having the claustrophobic person serve as the stoker (the rear)? <S> That way they can close their eyes and simply pedal, without having to worry about steering or braking. <S> A recumbent tandem trike would be ideal for this. <S> Or a sociable. <S> I belong to an adaptive cycling club and we ride with blind individuals (amongst others) using tandems and sociables (as well as regular bicycles, etc.). <S> Update: With tandems ruled out, another option used by low-vision cyclists is to have the buddy, lead- (sighted) <S> This allows the vision-impaired cyclist to focus on the lead cyclist as they pedal behind. <S> With people with anxiety, focusing on a non-stimulus helps shutout the other triggering stimuli, so it may help considerably. <A> Avoid the longer tunnels either by taking the detour or using some form of public transport . <S> The extra way on the detours might just compensate for the time and mileage saved when taking, for example, the bus. <S> On top of this might come health and safety concerns due to bad ventilation, confined road space, drivers not expecting cyclists and low light. <S> Riding tunnels was discussed in detail in a previous question .
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While I am not claustrophobic, the thought of cycling through a 7km long tunnel is quite unpleasant. cyclist wear distinctive bright clothing, have a flag on the bicycle, or a steady red light (not flashing, which can cause seizures) on the back of their bicycle.
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Can I fit a 26x3.5 tire on a 26x4.0 rim? i have a sondors bike that comes with a 4.0 fat tire. i am tring to find a street tire for my fat boy i only found one and its 3.5 not 4.0 STREET TIRE <Q> That is: <S> 60mm-70mm wide rims. <S> It might work on an 80mm rim depending on the actual width of the tire. <S> But will definitely not work on a 5" fat bike rim which is 100mm wide. <S> Surly does not recommend their Black Floyd (listed at 26"x3.8" but actually narrower) road tire for rims wider than 65mm, for comparison. <S> I tried to find the actual specs for a the rims on a Sondors Fat eBike, but it looks like there are a couple versions. <S> One comes with 59mm rims, which should work for a smaller tire. <S> However, the other version (with the 4.9" tires) might have a rim that is too wide for those tires. <A> What matters is the width of the rim. <S> It's unlikely that you rim is 4" wide, so you will be fine with a 3.5" tyre. <S> But I think yours is the first fat-bike question. <A> Yes it fits easily, I use a 26x2.125 tire on a 26x80mm wheel. <S> Gives a nice low profile look. <S> Just use the non puncture proof tubes, so it can shape itself to the inside of the tire. <S> I'm going to use 26x3.0 tires on my 26x4.0/100mm wheels
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A 26"x3.5 tire should work on any narrow 4" fat bike rim. The Apache Fatslick http://veetireco.com/listings/fat-tire-apache-fatty-slick/ is the only option I know of a "road" tire for a 5" rim. If you search for "narrow tyre" or "tyre width" here you will see quite a few questions about this, and the very general rule is that the rim should be narrower than the tyre.
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Does a fat tire ride softer than a skinny one at the same pressure? Fat tires are associated with good bump absorption. Is this due to their fatness, or is it due to the low pressure with which they can be used? If I pump a fatbike tire to 120 psi (yes, that would be absurd), will it still absorb bumps better than a 23mm tire at the same pressure? <Q> After reading the answers here and becoming more curious, I found this article, which agrees with @Daniel. <S> to briefly summarize it, they found that at the same tire pressure the narrower tires deflected more and had a lower stiffness (force over displacement) <S> A curious finding is that a difference of 1 bar (14psi) makes more of a difference that a 5mm tire change. <S> I suppose the problem becomes that with a 23mm tire there is only so much room for compliance. <S> Additionally, they found that tire width had very little effect on small bumps (8mm in this test) and that the main factor was tire pressure: <S> at this point it seems that for bumps smaller than the tire diameter, the shape and size of the bump is driving the stiffness more than the effective width of the tire itself. <S> That article also links to another article which discusses the sensation of tire stiffness as an expression of hoop stress , which they call casing tension. <S> To me, this seems like a much more logical explanation as to why a wider tire will feel stiffer at a given pressure (again agreeing with @Daniel). <S> I would suggest reading the article, but I did my best to briefly explain the end result. <S> Essentially, the equation for hoop stress is based upon wall thickness, diameter, and pressure. <S> Wall thickness = <S> the thickness of the tire casing <S> Mean diameter = <S> the tire size [cross sectional area of tire] <S> Pressure = <S> the pressure the wheel is inflated to <S> Maintaining a constant casing tension and wall thickness <S> we can solve for pressure and see that the pressure is inversely proportional to the diameter. <A> To make it stupidly simple, assume that the tire has a roughly rectangular cross-section. <S> So a 1-inch tire is 1 inch across <S> has a width of 1 inch in contact with the pavement, while a 4-inch tire is 4 inches across and has a width of 4 inches in contact with the pavement. <S> Also, for the sake of simplicity, assume that the tire is perfectly flexible -- that the stiffness of the tire carcass and tread is not a factor. <S> And assume that we have a 200 pound bike+rider, and that the weight is evenly distributed between front and rear, meaning there is 100 pounds of weight on each tire. <S> At 50 PSI the 1-inch tire will need to have two square inches == <S> two linear inches in contact with the pavement, while the 4-inch tire will need to have 2 square inches == one-half linear inch in contact. <S> On a 24 inch wheel, the 1-inch wide tire will deflect about 0.04 inches, while the 4-inch tire will deflect about 0.0026 inches. <S> If you hit a bump which momentarily doubles the force on the wheel (and the size of the contact patch), the 1-inch tire will deflect about 0.168 inches, while the 4-inch tire will deflect about 0.01 inches. <S> (Using this online calculator.) <S> So the narrower tire is "softer" by a factor of (0.168-0.04) / (0.01-0.0026) = 0.124 / <S> 0.074 <S> = 1.7. <A> You won't feel it, but at the same pressure the fat tyre will feel softer because it will deflect more for the same change in applied force. <S> That happens because as the tyre compresses over a bump the pressure inside the larger tyre rises less than in the smaller tyre, and the tyre itself flexes less. <S> But we are talking zero to quite a number of decimal places (question is about rider weight, but if you use "2G" instead of "twice the mass" it works just the same) <S> My experience is with 406 tyres, where it's easy to get high pressure tyres up to about 55mm wide. <S> So I have had tyres down to about 32mm wide on the back of my commuter and up to 55mm wide, all happy to run at 6 bar. <S> My mental habit is to pump them to 6 bar, and I can't tell the difference in ride quality between them. <S> The wider tyres have more rolling resistance, but on flat roads that is a fairly small effect. <S> I suspect it's from the wider contact patch meaning I hit more small bumps on Australia's rough roads. <S> As soon as I hit a soft surface the wider tyres have much more rolling resistance, unless it's just the right softness for the skinny tyre to sink in while the fat one floats. <S> The flexing effect is because the wider tyre presents a flatter bottom surface, so there is a tiny difference in how much flexing happens around the edges of the contact patch. <S> Again, I'm am not sure that you'd be able to measure it, but it's quite possibly there.
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The real benefit of wider tyres is that you can run them at lower pressure, and if they have nice flexible sidewalls the ride is much softer because the tyre deforms over bumps rather than making the rider rise over them.
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How to know you have tailwind? I think I missed a lot of opportunities to go faster when cruising and not taking advantage of tailwind. I find that if I put short effort in acceleration, the tailwind will take care most of the speed maintaining work. For big tailwind I can usually see leaves rolling on along my general direction. Lately, I think if wind noise is more quite, I might be in tailwind? So how can you tell if you've got tailwind or wind direction in general? (without flag anywhere nearby) <Q> The most accurate way to do it would be with a pitot tube to measure wind velocity and then to contrast that against speed-over-ground from your GPS or wheel speed sensors. <S> Before one laughs about the science-fiction nature of this, there's a product that does so: The PowerPod <S> (link is to DC RainMaker's review of it). <S> The Isaac software that comes with the PowerPod allows you to extract effective wind speed and direction amongst other things. <A> We like tailwinds as the effort to ride at a given speed is lowered. <S> In the same token we like slight downward slopes. <S> If you base your riding on effort, rather than a fixed speed, you will automatically utilise a slight tailwind. <S> If you however ride at a fixed speed, you simply had an effortless ride. <S> In other words, you missed nothing. <A> @Daniel has made several comments that capture what experienced cyclists have learned. <S> You think something like <S> I'm going well , or killing it , or even (as happened today) <S> this looks like it's uphill , while blasting along. <S> When you stop you discover the awful truth. <S> It's a headwind home . <S> The reality is that we nearly always have a headwind , especially as Daniel says, when climbing a hill, because we're cyclists. <S> And we usually have a headwind going there, and coming back. <S> That one in a hundred tailwind case is not the first thing we think of. <S> Yes, vegetation can tell us. <S> But in many cases in a built up environment we can't see any vegetation. <S> But it wouldn't be the first time I've seen the vegetation looking like I have a tailwind when I actually have a headwind. <S> Because I'm a cyclist. <A> Thank you for the downvotes, I'll show myself the door. :-) <A> You can check wind direction from bending of vegetation, it stays bent to the wind for longer periods than it springs backwards in eddies, attach a white cotton/wool thread to the handlebars and check it's movement every time the bike slows, feel the wind in left ear, right ear, forwards and back, and check a weather graph with wind direction and speed expected for every hour of the day, and go out when it's max tailwind and come back when it's calmed on the return. <A> The simplest way is simply stop in an open space and feel where the wind is coming from, using your face. <S> Downside is that any trees or buildings will make the wind veer, and traffic makes its own wind. <S> Plus you have to stop (anathema!) <S> Flags work really well, because they're often up high and in the real airstream. <S> You can also check the local weather report for your area. <S> For me that's http://www.metservice.com/towns-cities/christchurch/christchurch <S> but you should have something similar for your location. <A> Fresh answer - I did a bit of a ride yesterday and it was quite warm. <S> So I ended up rolling my pants cuffs up to my knees for added cooling. <S> An unexpected side effect is that on my shins I could feel air gusts and eddies that were different depending which way I was riding. <S> Its really hard to explain, but in a crosswind I could feel a wind vortex on the inside of my left leg and on the outside of my right leg. <S> In a headwind I could feel the wind curling around behind my shins, and in a tailwind there was no particular sensation either way. <S> So if like me you habitually wear pants, try some shorts, or roll up your pants cuffs and see how it feels. <S> Mind out for sunburn though <S> - that's a whole separate painful issue right now.
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mostly the wind is as likely to be against you as with you, although checking the daily forecast can mean taking advantage of massive tailwinds to get some place very fast and then coming back in relative calm. If you are biking along and you encounter a terrible smell -- look around and realize that it's you yourself that you're smelling -- then you're in a tailwind -- and that it's time you washed your bike jersey. If you travel through an entire country you can get a map of the prevailing winds for every season and for every region.
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Converting road hydraulic disc brakes to flat bar : Possible? I bought a road bike recently and find the road position too uncomfortable for commuting in the city, especially for reaching the brakes fast and slaloming between cars. Therefore, I would like to convert it to a flat bar. My only issue is with the hydraulic disc brakes (Shimano BR-RS505), is it possible to just replace the levers with other levers ? I understand there is a specific volume of oil that is 'moved' by the lever, but assuming any XC or DH lever has a higher pressing volume, it should work no ?Has anyone gone through such a process ? Is there anything I should be aware of prior to having my brakes undergo surgery ? <Q> The official answer from Shimano as of now is no, as per their road hydraulic systems compatibility chart. <S> Someday there may be flatbar road hydraulic levers that make their way onto a new version of that chart, but for now bikes like that just come with conventional MTB/hybrid systems. <S> There may be combinations that work acceptably, but they will be hacks in an area not a lot of exploration has generally been done in at present. <S> Matching fluid displacement is not simply a matter of the new lever moving at least as much total fluid as the old one. <S> To perform correctly, the lever has to move fluid at an appropriate rate per distance of lever travel. <S> Hydraulic brakes have a similar version of leverage (aka mechanical advantage) considerations as cable actuated brakes, or at least they would if in practice they weren't mostly black boxes in terms of observing and comparing displacement numbers. <S> In other words, if you hooked the caliper up to a lever that moved a bunch more fluid, the brake would feel firm and positive at the lever, same as hooking a v-brake lever up to a sidepull, but it wouldn't be generating correct leverage, and stopping power would suffer. <S> If you go the other direction, less displacement, you get a brake that generates a ton of leverage but the pad movement will be less than what it should be, so it will be prone to issues with the lever bottoming on the bar prematurely, and will feel mushy. <A> Don't do it!!! <S> I bought a road bike recently and find the road position too uncomfortable for commuting in the city, especially for reaching the brakes fast and slaloming between cars. <S> Therefore, I would like to convert it to a flat bar. <S> If your brake hoods are positioned correctly, you should be able to commute sitting up with your hands on the hoods, and brake from there. <S> Braking is certainly not as strong from this position, but it's effective enough, and is quicker than getting into the drops to brake. <S> The problem with a flat bar for commuting, compared to a road bike with drop bars, is that the flat bar is wider. <S> So when you say slaloming between cars , I think you'll be restricted by the extra width. <S> I have commuted with drop bars this way for 30 years in heavy traffic, and never had a problem with being able to brake hard enough. <S> And that's using traditional cable actuated rim brakes. <S> If you have not been used to braking from the hoods then it will feel strange at first. <S> Practice, and maybe build up some hand strength in the process. <S> And ride with a little more caution until you gain confidence in your ability to stop. <S> At best, you'll have developed a new skill and saved your money. <S> At worst, you can switch to a flat bar later (with a different bike, because the geometry will be wrong on this one). <S> Finally, it could be that your brake hoods are positioned too low. <S> They should be set up so that braking is possible from the drops and the hoods. <A> I assume the bike in question is configured for flat mount disc brakes. <S> I have a Planet X Evo Pro carbon disc frame with flat bars and Shimano XT brakes. <S> This works perfectly.
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As no leading manufacturer has yet produced an affordable flat mount brake for flat barred bikes the solution is to use flat mount to post mount adaptors and use an mtb brake set-up.
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Why do folding bikes usually have MTB components? Most of the folding bikes I've seen, which are used for urban commuting/recreation, usually have MTB components except for the big chainring. If they're going to be ridden most of the time on paved roads, why not use road bike components? <Q> Great question! <S> I think the market drives this -- not necessarily just the folding bike market, but the component market. <S> Mountain bikes have been the predominant type of bicycle for the past thirty years. <S> This has meant that every manufacturer has a line for very, very inexpensive mountain bike componentry. <S> If you want to build up a bike on the cheap, you use mtb hardware. <S> tldr : <S> Most folding bikes are not sold by virtue of their component line (unlike road bikes) <S> but on the basis of their folding mechanism. <S> Most buyers will see "Shimano" gears and be happy -- not knowing it's the bottom end plastic Shimano for a BSO mtb. <S> There is also some physical factors that also play a role, notably the brakes. <S> Most folding bikes have 20" or smaller wheels. <S> Because the wheels are smaller, the tires have to be wider to provide resilience and suspension. <S> The brakes also have to be stronger and "grabbier" because the smaller wheel torques on the brakes more. <S> So you want cantilever or V-brakes for the reach around the fat tire -- or disc-brakes. <S> Final nail in the casket, you have to consider which brake handle styles have the right pull ratio given that folders don't have drops. <S> One of the few folding bikes that has road-style caliper brakes is the Brompton - and it has custom brake levers and has been heavily criticized for its poor braking. <S> One of the few folding bikes with drops and calipers is the Tern Verge X18 below, which is a niche-niche bike. <S> So in general, considering cost and effectiveness, you end up with mtb style brakes and brake levers. <S> Christian Lindig has also mentioned the derailleur <S> but there are some considerations there <S> (long-cage mountain derailleurs don't work on stubby wheels) <S> that complicate a response. <A> Road-bike specific components are designed for weight not strength. <S> MTBs are expected to survive rougher handling. <S> Other bikes built for mainly on-road use but not top speeds also share components with MTBs. <S> For example plenty of hybrids use MTB gears even if their wheels have more in common with tourers (at least mine does, some others use road components except the bars) <A> Road bikes have short rear derailleurs which are incompatible with a cassette that offers a wide range of gears (like 12T to 30T in 10 steps) - they are designed to offer smaller steps over a narrower range (like 11T to 23T in 10 steps). <S> A strong motivation to use an MTB rear derailleur is to offer a wide range of gears as there is typically only one chainring in the front. <S> As noted by another answer, a long derailleur is a problem for the small wheels used on folding bikes. <S> As a result you will notice that the chain runs very close to the ground - and will pick up dirt from there.
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Although folding bikes don't want to be heavy, they need to be tough, often getting knocked over onto drivetrain components, or bumped into doorframes, etc. Finally, related is that most adolescent-size BSOs are also mountainbikes - which further drives down price on those components with the added benefit that they fit folding bikes better.
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Aero bike vs climbing bike for running in Crits I'm considering building a road bike and getting into running Crits this Summer and I'm unsure as to go with an Aero bike or a climbing (lightweight) bike. Based on my general understanding, when not going up steep hills (which of course is not done in Crits) as a general rule of thumb an Aero bike is definitely faster. Based on this I would have expected to see most Crit riders on Aero bikes, but when I watch YouTube videos of Crits most of the riders are on lightweight bikes. There are only 3 reasons I can think of for this: 1) Cost, non-professional riders may already own an endurance bike used for long weekend training rides or commuting on rough roads and not have the $$$ to drop on a 2nd bike just for running occasional Crits. 2) If in the pack most/all of the race, some degree of the Aero benefit would be negated (of course this is not a very good reason b/c if you intend to win then obviously you would not be in the middle of the pack, at least not in the end). 3) Most Crit circuits have frequent turns, perhaps endurance or climbing bikes are better for this purpose? Even considering the above reasons, the whole point of a Crit is to go absolutely as fast as possible for a relatively short amount of time, therefore I would have expected to see almost all Crit participants on an Aero bike, but from watching Crits on YouTube is seems very few Crit riders use an Aero bike. Can somebody explain this further? <Q> Revised following clarifying comments <S> OP is / will be racing in the US USA Cycling <S> has looser rules for bikes than the UCI, unless the event is qualification for a non-US event. <S> With these updates, the answer is simply that people rarely race on ideal equipment. <S> Most people I know who race Crits <S> do it either on the same bike they use for road races, Gran Fondos, or other big rides, because they don't have a more suitable bike for the purpose. <S> Those who can afford to drop $5K to $10K on a specialist bike usually don't see Crits as the target: too many crashes, and they tend to see Crits as training rides. <S> Regarding the bikes you mention, they both appear on a quick glance to meet the USA Cycling Rules 2017 . <S> I was initially concerned that the curved top tube was non-compliant, but this guide and <S> the rules already mentioned show that concern to be unfounded for racing in the US. <S> I suspect the FM098 would not meet UCI standards, but that's irrelevant to you. <S> The earlier version of this answer follows and may be useful for international readers ... <S> ARTICLE 1.3.011 (and <S> related articles) of the UCI Technical regulations essentially says only a general purpose bike can be used for road racing (criteriums are road races). <S> I interpret your aero bike to be a time trial bike. <S> The rules explicitly ban such trials bikes from road racing. <S> The reason for this is the lack of maneuverability. <S> In practice you'll get much more benefit from sitting on the guy on front. <S> See UCI CYCLING REGULATIONS PART <S> 1 GENERAL ORGANISATION OF CYCLING <S> AS <S> A SPORT <S> Especially 1.3.022 <S> and 1.3.023. <A> I race the 2 largest, longest, and most popular Crit series in the US that happen to be held in the Midwest ( ToAD and Intelligentdia Cup ). <S> Both have hills. <S> Sure 65’ (20 metres) of climb per lap isn't bad but try doing that 25 times. <S> 1600’ (500 metres) of climb an hour is fairly legit once you add in the attacks up the hill and the other attacks to gain position on the flats. <S> So if you're racing very local, sure consider it flat and focus on finding a weight/aero balance. <S> If you plan to compete on a larger scale, weight is definitely more important for hilly, semi-hilly, windy, and snappy accelerating in crits. <A> Although the aero bike will give you some help at speed, as may above have said, you are usually riding in a bunch anyway, where you may well be spending a decent amount of time on someone else's wheel anyway. <S> On the assumption that the aero bike will be heavier you will have to put more watts in to get back up to speed out of the corners and this would likely negate any serious benefits from the aero profile. <S> In theory, you would be able to brake slightly later on a lighter bike (marginal but still noteworthy) and, more importantly, be able to get it back up to speed out of the corners quicker and more effectively, saving you a few watts each time. <S> As long as it was sufficiently stiff to cope when you sprint hard, it would be my choice for crit racing every time. <S> With all this being said, it's usually more about the legs pushing the bike than the bike itself! <S> Happy to hear other opinions though... <A> I have raced in about 15 crits, and yes, you do draft and no, you dont pull at the front unless you want to lose. <S> Aero is great if it is free. <S> if at the cost of weight, then go with lighter. <S> It is all about staying with the peleton and the peleton is going to surge. <S> The race is all about hard accelerations and intelligent drafting. <S> Light weight will help with accelerations... <S> that is what you will learn, accelerate and recover. <S> unless you are coming from another discipline that requires incredible power you will be dropped and spend time building your short term power and sprints. <S> you wont have any concern about aero ever. <S> in other words when you start losing, you will try to figure out how to accelerate. <S> you will care about conserving energy and lowering wind resistence by strategically positioning yourself behind other riders. <S> you will never craft a plan to go into the wind by yourself but incrementally find that slightly easier with aero handlebars because that is certainly not a better choice <S> no matter how aero the bike and a sure way to lose. <S> you can do the math an easily overestimate the benefit of aero if you are assuming your bike is breaking the wind....not in crit racing, thats the job of the cyclist or pack in front of you. <S> but you still have to apply work to accelerate mass <S> , thats why you want less mass and sure... <S> diet is going to be a factor, but a light weight bike is nice.
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Given that a crit requires a lot of hard accelerations out of corners and a lot of braking into corners, I would have thought a lightweight bike will give you more benefit than an aero bike.
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Rack and fender on one eyelet spacing issue I just had fenders mounted on my bike, but there is a minor issue. Here is the picture of the situation: The two fender stays can be see going to the left of the image, and the rack stay is the middle of the image. Currently, the top fender stay and the rack hook where you clip bags onto are pretty much touching. This makes it very difficult to slide a clip onto the rack hook without a struggle. I was wondering what the best thing to do is. My plan is to buy a longer bolt and add a washer or two to space apart the fender stay and rack stay. The problem is that I am concerned about cantilevering the rack stay too far from the eyelet. Is that a real concern? ( see here ) The solution could be to also switch the ordering so that the rack stay is closest to the eyelet. But I feel like the fender stay could still get in the way because it would have to curve back to the fender. Is that a worry? I want to buy the right length bolt without having to experiment too much. edit: situation update After taking a closer look, I realized that the top fender stay runs under the seat stay, so having the fender stay go in front of the rack stay is not an option. I see two ways forward now: Use washers (with possibly a longer bolt) to space apart the rack and fender stays, even though the rack stay will be outside of the fender stays. Move the fender stays to P-clamps mounted on the seat stays. Final update (3-20): I ended up using the same screw, but I added an additional washer between the fender stays and the rack. The screw was long enough to still fully thread the eyelet. And yes I did increase leverage on the screw from the rack ever so slightly. But this was the simplest and easiest solution. The way the fender stay is angled, it's impossible to have the fender stay outside of the rack. <Q> A longer bolt is indeed a risk because of the extra leverage. <S> If you're willing to bend the fender stay that is a much better solution. <S> The simple, crude way is just to bend it on the bike. <S> Simply hold the fender in place with one hand and push the stay in towards the wheel with the other. <S> You'll probably need to move the fender out using the stay adjustment system to get it to sit straight on the wheel. <S> Unless you need a really big gap (more than 10mm) <S> this should work. <S> You'll have a curved stay and it will look very DIY. <S> That will let you put a matching set of bends on the other side of the bike so that the fender sits straight. <S> You still need extra length available because the bends pull the fender in towards the wheel. <S> If you don't have the extra length available you will have to fall back to using a longer bolt. <S> Try to keep the extra length to a minimum. <S> I suggest using a button head bolt rather than a square head because that bolt head will wear a hole in your pannier. <A> I'd consider these in order of preference: <S> Move the fender stay to the inside by using a longer screw and a nut to secure the stay on the inside. <S> If space is really tight, put the screw in from the inside and use the nut on the outside. <S> Use a longer screw and a spacer but put the rack stay closest to the eyelet because it will carry more load. <S> Any of the above and bending the rack stay to make it more accessible. <S> Install a hook. <A> The new picture shows that the holes for the fender draw bolts on the offending stay are almost exactly along the path of the back rack struts. <S> Cut off the stay just above the eyelet with bolt cutters or a hacksaw, leaving enough so the other stay has a full loop of material contacting the eyelet. <S> Remove the draw bolts and use zip ties to attach the the empty holes to the rack. <S> Even if there was no interference issue with the struts, this also eliminates a spot that can rattle. <S> Here's a bike where I did the same thing for the same reason: <A> Using a "P" clamp you can relocate the fender mount to a little farther up the seat stays. <A> Spacing out the bolt so that the rack sits further out is not a good idea, as you suspect. <S> It'll increase the likelihood of either the bolt or the eyelet breaking. <S> I see a few possibilities: <S> Cut a few millimeters off the tip of the rack hook. <S> You'll still have enough of the hook left to hold your baggage. <S> Attach <S> the fender stays with P-clamps, as you suggested. <S> Reposition <S> the attachment of the upper fender stay to the fender, so the stay is further back. <S> I can't tell from the photo, but you'll probably have to drill some holes in the fender.
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The more organised way that lets you deal with a fender with no adjustment is to pull the stay off the bike and bend it in specific places using a vice. The second photo suggests that even a tiny bend back away from the rack will solve your problem - you only need 5mm or so.
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Removing Rust on Chrome Rims My wife has a 1980 Schwinn World Tourist that has a good frame and is mechanically sound. The rims have developed rust on the rims even though it is in the garage. Is there a good way to remove the rust or any rust remover that works well on chrome wheels? Please do not recommend Coke and aluminum foil. I have tried that and it does not work (I used the same method shown on You Tube videos).Granted, the bike is not worth much, but with the rear baskets, it looks like the "wicked witch of the West's" bike and has character. <Q> If you want to keep the steel wheels, you need to remove the rust and stop it coming back. <S> For Pinheads of Rust Strip off everything that is not metal (tyre/tube/rim tape) <S> You need to expose the rust to treat it <S> Sand off any large lumps of rust with sandpaper <S> (this is tedious) <S> Treat the whole wheel surface with a rust resolver like "Rustbuster" which is an acid. <S> Use gloves and eye protection - this stuff dissolves skin nicely. <S> Allow it to dry/cure overnight <S> Next day, sand any lumps of black rust ready for painting <S> Immediately prime the whole wheel, spraypaint works well. <S> Then immediately wipe the primer off the chromed parts because it won't stick there anyway. <S> You can try applying a spray chrome paint last. <S> Avoid the brake track, it won't last there. <S> Personally I used grey primer and simply left it at that. <S> Significant Rust <S> If the rim is too rusted then you're up for some more in-depth work. <S> If flakes of chrome come off because of rust underneath, then its significant. <S> The rust will have penetrated under the chrome, and its very hard to get to. <S> So the fix is to take it all off. <S> Order replacement stainless steel spokes and brass nipples. <S> Could be glass pellets, walnut shells, sand, or similar abrasive powders. <S> While these steps are happening, service the hub with new bearings etc. <S> Once the whole rim is bare metal, get it commercially rechromed. <S> A proper chrome expert will know the appropriate grades to use so the brake track works. <S> Reassemble with new spokes and nipples (you may as well do it right) on the fresh hub. <S> Upgrade for Safety <S> Personally? <S> I'd scrap the steel wheel, and replace the whole rim with a modern alloy rim. <S> This will make braking work much better too. <S> Downside, is that modern 700c wheels are a few millimetres smaller than your existing 27" wheels. <S> So the brakes have to reach a bit further, and you need new tyres. <S> Your spare tubes should be okay though. <A> In addition to the other excellent answer, this stuff works miracles. <S> Available in most bike shops, its a paste that you rub in and buff out <S> and it works really when on surface rust and cleaning up old chrome. <A> Use a brillo pad on light surface rust. <S> Spraying some WD40 also help.
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Poke at the big rust spots, look for rust under the chrome. Send the rim hoop to a commercial shotblaster for cleanup, with whatever product they recommend. Disassemble the whole wheel, loosen all the spoke nipples, remove the bare rim hoop. A wire brush works too and helps with stubborn spots.
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Is it appropriate to carry furniture with bike and suggestion for equipment I am coming from a culture where there are not many bike roads. But now I am moving to a place where bike roads are awesome and cool. Since I do not know the "bike culture" well in Denmark while I think this should be acceptable I wanted to ask if I try something like below, Is it legally or culturally bad . BTW While looking for stuff I am trying find ones close to my house which is far from center to avoid dense population and narrow bike roads. If it is OK do you have any advise for a trailer type or other equipment(for example like green and orange ropes in the picture) to accomplish that? <Q> Based on the photos on the Christiana website <S> I think you'll be fine. <S> The exact law I'm not sure of <S> , I can't find a translation of their bike laws online. <S> It seems that people do carry big loads on bikes there, which isn't surprising given the strength of their cycling culture. <S> You have the right idea about not doing it in rush hour. <S> The generic load carrying questions are easier to answer. <S> But if that's the trailer you have, that's the trailer you'll use. <S> Just be careful. <S> I have built trailers more than a metre wide and not had problems, and in both cases I have built them <S> so I can have a flat platform over the wheels, which lets me have loads wider than the trailer easily. <S> ( big ) ( big ) (same trailer, flipped upside down to use a second set of dropouts. <S> Or just load it <S> so you can have a higher layer of stuff that sticks out more ) <A> Look around - do you ever see other people doing stuff like this? <S> How's your riding - are you strong enough to ride a up-to-100 kilo bike up the worst grade to your home ? <S> Is your bike up to the task - specifically brakes. <S> Personally I'd try it , but with a lighter load than pictured, and I'd use a couple more straps. <S> If this feels okay then step up to larger loads. <S> Avoid peak road times <S> cos <S> that's just aggravating others. <S> Also avoid hours of darkness, and consider using DRL lights on the load, or at least brightly coloured markers. <S> Those straps are trailer or motorcycle tiedowns. <S> You can use anything that is strong enough and tie them off to the trailer so the load cannot move. <S> Check your straps for tightness every few kilometres. <S> Weather comes into it as well. <S> Avoid towing into a headwind - its best to do this on a still day. <S> Also avoid rain/dampness because even if its not raining, the damp from the road will get on your stuff. <S> And braking co-efficient will not work in your favour if the road is wet. <S> As for trailer - finding a low one as pictured would be good. <S> The higher off the ground the more unstable on side winds and on corners. <S> My red ex-kids one is only rated to 30 kilos of live-load. <S> The hitch is important too, you don't want to loose the trailer at the wrong moment. <S> Also, approach stops much slower, lose speed earlier, and brake longer and more gently. <S> I've been jack knifed by my own loaded trailer at a red stoplight as the load lifted my rear wheel and shoved it sideways. <S> Take corners much slower than normal. <S> I managed to roll this 68 kg loaded trailer on a roundabout, which was embarrassing. <S> Max speed through a corner is 5-10 km <S> /h. <S> To repeat - you need to have confidence in your bike and especially your brakes. <S> The trailer above easily doubled my stopping distance because of its mass, and also the risk of jack knifing meant I had to slow down the bike slower, over a longer window. <A> I am posting this because it might be helpful for somebody else as well. <S> My friends from work send me a link for renting trailers. <S> I don't know why I searched all day yesterday and couldn't find something like this danish renting trailer website.
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I suggest not loading with the centre of gravity as high as your photo because it means you can't ride on roads where there's a side slope, and cornering is harder. I would build or modify a trailer that's as wide as I can get down the paths in the area, once you have somewhere to live.
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Are there any 8-speed brifters with internal cabling? I have a situation where the bike has (OEM) 8-speed Shimano Claris shifters with the cables coming out the side which interferes with the handlebar bag.(Photo below). SRAM doesn't list any 8-speed brifters at all, and Campy 8speed ergos are only available (second hand? genuine?) from Ebay.I'm looking specifically for brifters with internal cable routing - bar-end shifters are a fallback option. <Q> It is still 8 speed group, so in line with the op's wishes. <S> https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/claris-r2000.html dealers manual, page 13, how to install shifter cable: http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-RBSL001-03-ENG.pdf <A> There are two ways to do it. <S> One is use Microshift SB-R482 levers. <S> (Sorry, I got this wrong because the image is a little tricky and it comes off a link from their front page that says "inner route cables. <S> " These have shift cable routing much like STIs with external routing.) <S> The other is use 10 speed Ergo levers, or 9 speed <S> Ergo levers with the Hubbub/Shimergo mod, to shift Shimano 8 with a Shimano derailer and cassette, as outlined here . <S> Or if you happen to find an 8-speed Ergo, you can install a 9-speed or 10-speed ratchet ring into it. <S> Interference with handlebar bags is a big reason why the Shimergo/Hubbub trick became a thing. <S> You can also do the same trick to make 10-speed Ergo work with 9-speed Shimano. <S> SRAM started at 10 and never went backwards, and Shimano also has never made 8-speed STI with under-tape shift routing. <A> Although your pocketbook won't like this solution, the Alfine Di2 wireless brifter from Shimano does have an 8-speed option. <S> It's not as much an internal [shifter] cable solution as a wireless shifter and internal brake cable solution . <S> As commenters have pointed out, the Alfine is for internal geared hubs. <A> they just recently release a new claris internal cabling R2000 model
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The new Claris, called R2000, has internally routed brake and shifter cables, an improvement on a previous version, that still sported the externally routed shifting cables. You might be able to bodge a solution with their Dura-Ace wireless brifters but it'll be similarly expensive and may not work.
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When installing a rear rack, should I attach the struts to the frame or the seat post on my small bike? For context, the bike is a small Giant Liv Alight and the rack is a Transit Rear Rack which carries up to 40 lbs. The distance between the mounting eyelets on the rack and the ones in the frame is about 8," while the rack-to-seat post distance is a little less. There are struts (attachment arms) for sale which are 11". I plan to carry close to the 40 lb maximum. Considering the weight, would you recommend mounting the rack to the frame or the seat post? (As a city hybrid, this set up is a downgrade from the stronger, heavier set up on my touring bike.) <Q> From rack strength perspective <S> it doesn't make much difference . <S> Most of the weight is going straight down to the rear dropout. <S> The front connection is mostly for stability and isn't bearing much weight. <S> From the seatpost's perspective, it's already carrying 150+ pounds (75kg+) of the rider. <S> Another few pounds is nothing. <S> (Note that racks that cantilever off the seatpost are another issue and they can put undesirable lateral force on the seatpost). <S> The only problem in attaching it to your seatpost means that it'll be harder to adjust your seatpost. <S> One benefit though is that means it's a tad bit harder to steal your seat. <A> My old rack was fine, but one my new one I can't use the left brace to the frame at all. <S> It's stiff enough to not move around fully loaded even so, because it's braced using solid alumium bar <S> tightly clamped; the old one used a bent steel arrangement that was a bit more springy and really needed both. <A> Like the other poster said, you're probably fine with either approach. <S> But... if you want to get scientific with it, you're better off mounting to the frame because of the reduced distance and lower weight distribution. <S> Side to side sway will be felt more with a higher mount point.
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One additional benefit of bracing to the seat post is that with some combinations of rack/bike (yours may be one of these as you have V-brakes) the left brace to the frame interferes with the brake noodle.
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Re-learning how to corner aggressively at speed after bad experiences I'm not quite sure if this should somehow be broken up into two questions, but what can one do to take sharp corners at speed effectively, especially when you're nervous after having bad experiences riding? I'm already familiar with common techniques for high-speed cornering on a theoretical level (cf. a video from the Global Cycling Network ), but I was never really good at taking corners hard. Now, however, after being in an accident with a car and afterwards having only ridden a lot in miserable conditions (snow, ice, sand/gravel on the road because of the snow , etc.), I realize that I simply don't do sharp turns... and trying to force myself to do it makes me extremely nervous. Possible aggravating factors Ill-suited bike: Perhaps it's the one rideable bike I've currently got? — it's a lot lighter and "tighter" than my previous training bike, which makes it seem fun to ride, but it just feels squirrely... yet that could simply be me not used to it. Interference from similar sports: Between the accident and the winter, I was on a motorbike quite a lot, and I feel much more confident on it than I do on a bicycle despite going over twice as fast. However, the thing weighs 220kg as opposed to maybe 13kg, and you hug a motorbike in a way you don't/can't on a pushbike. Also, when cornering on a motorbike, it's completely normal to use the rear brake to control your speed; I find I'm instinctively trying to do this on a pushbike but it just makes me feel weird, and I don't even know if you can do this safely on a bike, anyway Are there no "baby steps" I can try to do in order to get myself to corner properly and aggressively and yet to trust myself/my bike at the same time? <Q> I'm only posting this as an answer because it seemed long to comment. <S> But i would run some drills maybe once a week or whenever your free time allows. <S> Go to a sports store and get some little multi sport cones, or use beer cans or toilet paper rolls or what ever else <S> you have <S> that won't hurt you or the bike if you run it over or fall on it. <S> Two drills that may help is a large slalom where you need to tightly weave back and forth. <S> The other being a large circle. <S> Start with ample room where it is almost too easy, then as your confidence and speed increases, decrease the size of the shape or row, there by increasing the angle and lean that you need to use. <S> That way your not racing anyone but yourself and your own head. <S> Likely you have some degree of PTSD from the event, some may think it's silly but its very real. <S> I was in a head on 60mph collision (in a car not a bike) about 6 months ago, and unfortunately have to drive on that same 2 lane strip everyday to work, and still i get anxiety going through there <S> , it's a 2 lane underpass, old road <S> so it's narrow, with guard rails on either side <S> so there is no where to go. <S> Guy came into our lane and there was nothing we could do but wait to get hit. <S> Point is, it gets better it just takes time and repetition. <S> helped me gain a lot of confidence, i had similar issues when i switch from a 2.35" mountain bike to a road bike, just didn't feel right. <A> I've raced a bit and crashing is a part of the racing. <S> After every crash - the worst one being actually on the road - riding headlong into a car - I completely lose confidence on the bike. <S> Its like a fear of the next accident waiting around the corner. <S> I rebuild confidence by riding cross or mountain bike. <S> I relearn all the bike handling skills - I tend to lose on the road bike. <S> The advantages being no cars and a soft landing. <A> I've lost count of the accidents I've had. <S> The best way for me to regain confidence is to wear safety gear. <S> But I'm a very rough rider at any time. <S> The safety gear gives me the confidence to go back to pushing limits. <A> Maybe it is just evolution's way of asking you to increase the chances of passing your genes onto future generations? <S> Of course, it must be balanced against the greater number of potential mating partners who will be attracted to you as they watch you taking corners faster and lower, and seeing you in the top spot on the podium.
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It may take awhile to build confidence but repetition is key, after a while that fear should slowly start to shrink. You could even go as far to set up a small sprint course either in grass or a parking lot depending on how you feel, and start tracking you time. I have also found it helped my cornering a lot to concentrate on my position relative to the bottom bracket, sounds goofy but consciously being aware of my bad form and working on it with similar drills
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How to reduce cramping in hands (mountain biking)? I am pretty new to mountain biking and I have noticed on longer rides my hands will start to cramp/ache to the point where it is not comfortable to wrap my thumb around the handle bars. Obviously putting my thumb on top on the grip is less safe because I have less of a grip on the bike so is there anything I can do to lessen the cramps/aching? I have just standard grips on the bike and would be open to trying out some new ones if that would do the trick. <Q> Your question suggests that you might hold your handle bars too tight. <S> A tense grip over a long tube leads inevitably to cramps. <S> If you are not going over technical terrain or going very fast <S> it is usually safe to change grips and hold bars much more loosely. <S> With experience you will develop a firm but not too tight grip also in technical sections. <S> The reason therefore is described in detail in Rich Manson's answer . <S> Unergonomic hand and arm position on flat handlebars exacerbates this. <S> The latter is the easiest to fix: check if your position on the bike is good. <S> See Craig Hicks' answer on how to improve your position on your bike. <S> This helps immensely with many other forms of cycling discomfort caused by prolonged restrictions of movement. <A> A few things I have done that seem to help. <S> Swap your grips to something with an ergo design. <S> This type has a paddle like shape. <S> The larger width spreads the weight to a larger contact area. <S> Another advantage is these grips tend to have a larger diameter. <S> The larger size makes it easier to grip. <S> Check your fork settings. <S> Unless you are currently bottoming the fork out, set it to a softer setting. <S> This will let the shock do it job of absorbing vibration. <A> The hand receives its peripheral nerve supply from well-defined nerves such as the radial and median nerve which are involved with sensation to the thumb. <S> The median nerve often gets pinched, and the result is numbness. <S> Sometimes, weakness can also result, particularly of the muscles that bend the thumb towards the little finger. <S> The most common place for the median nerve to become pinched is in the carpal tunnel. <S> This narrow passage in the wrist where the median nerve travels along several tendons to the fingers. <S> If the tendons become inflamed, the swelling in the narrow tunnel can lead to a pinched nerve, diminished electrical signal transmission and numbness. <S> TL;DR <S> Try not to put to much weight on your wrists if your wrist are making contact with the bars. <S> Cutting off circulation to the carpal tunnel are is a big reason thumb numbness sets in. <S> Use a good pair of gloves with a good gel palm pad. <S> Better ergonomic grips Better grip position on bars and proper handlebar position Shaking hands periodically for a few seconds to get circulation going again. <S> Try alternating a fist, then a shake a couple times for each hand when you are not in a technical area of the trail <S> Limiting resting on the area of the carpal tunnel, the are between the palm and wrist, helps the most. <S> Note: <S> I have noticed that I have the most problem when my fitness has suffered coming out of winter months and not riding as often. <S> Seams as you get more fit, your body adjusts and carries your body weight better on the bike. <S> New riders also seam to have initial problems more often when they start into bike riding. <S> this is not considered by experts to be a serious medical issue. <A> Besides grips and handle sweep (affecting wrist angle), you might want to consider bike fit (esp. <S> seat fore-aft position, handlebar height, and length of stem) which greatly affect how much weight you put on your hands. <S> Generally speaking, seat further back, handlebars higher, and stem shorter will have you putting less weight on your hands. <S> However, beware, as this may put more weight on your ass which may then get very sore. <S> Imagine <S> you are pedaling so hard that the downward force of your feet is strong enough to lift your whole weight - then if your center of mass is balanced over the pedals you will be touching your seat and the handles just enough to keep you balanced, not using either to carry your weight. <S> The problem is, unless you are a really fast racer going out for a 1 or 2 hour spin, you can't pedal that hard for long so your ass and hands have to carry the weight. <S> This is why long distance riders tend to put their handlebars a little higher and get a leather saddle. <S> I do some long distance mixed terrain MTB riding. <S> I use a Brooks leather saddle and have put aerobars on my MTB. <S> The point of the aerobars is not to go faster (although that helps a little on the road sections) but to have an alternate position. <S> Once any part of your posture becomes too tired or painful, it really starts to slow you down.
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Some grips, mitts, bars or a changed position on the bike might help. Things that may help: Looser grip where possible Constant position changing so that the nerves mentioned above do not get pinch keeping inflation to a minimum. Pressure on the palms of your hands may also cause numbness and/or pain. Lastly, unless you are in a race, simply take a break from time to time .
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What is the origin of BSO - and is it internationally recognized? Who is the first person who came up with the appellation, "Bicycle Shaped Object" (BSO) referring to very inexpensive and very poorly built bicycles sold through mass-market department stores? Bonus question: And is it international? We use BSO in America and I've heard b.se members from Australia and New Zealand use it, but is it used in the UK and Canada? What do people in France or Japan or other countries call BSOs? If the bonus question makes this question too broad then I'll withdraw the bonus and make it a separate question. <Q> In German, I have never heard anything similar. <S> I think one reason is that everyday cycling is more common and many people have a cheap, battered bike to get to the railway station or the local shop, <S> so you could argue that most bicycles you see in town would be seen as BSOs by UK cyclists. <S> It doesn't make sense to invent a new term for something that is common and already has a name. <S> When you observe bikes in town, in the UK (where I live now) you can rather clearly see two distinct groups: high-end bikes for the sports market (and people dressed accordingly) versus really cheap ones (often students in uni towns). <S> In Germany it's much more a continuous spectrum with a lot of middle ground of various urban bikes, so it would be difficult to draw a boundary. <S> Another factor is that "BSO" is a term that is a bit arrogant and derogatory, sends the message: "You are not doing it properly", which is what bike advocacy groups really want to avoid. <S> In Germany, cycling is very much seen and promoted as everyday activity, and the cycling groups want to avoid terminology that would people off. <S> It's better if people cycle on a cheap bike than not cycle at all. <S> It's possible that the cycling sports community in Germany has derogatory terms for non-sportists, but I don't think it's common outside. <S> Again, in UK the community is different and more sports-oriented (although that's beginning to change, in the last 5 years or so). <A> Just answering the first question, google says the first use was in January 2001 in the UK: <S> They link to WhyCycle which refers to a page by <S> TheCyclingExperts <S> titled "The Bicycle Shaped Object." <S> Since both sites are UK sites, the first use on the internet seems to be from the UK in 2001. <S> I'm actually surprised that Sheldon wasn't the originator. <S> Sidenote: <S> This other site dated 2009 also says that the term originated in the UK: <A> In Russia, the term for BSO is "ашанбайк" (ashan-bike). <S> It's named after one big supermarket which primarily sells food, but also BSOs. <S> There are a lot of places in Russia where it's possible to find BSOs, but specialized bicycle stores usually don't sell them. <S> BSOs are rarely seen on streets (at least in St.Petersburg), probably because riding BSOs is harder than bicycles and people just give up and use public transport instead, because in Russia public transport is cheap. <S> This may change in near future though. <A> Here is an answer from India... <S> BSO (Bicyle Shaped Object) is a term virtually unknown here <S> The only people who know about it are the ones like me, who spend time reading about bicycling when not riding out there! <S> What do we call a bicycle? <S> A Cycle A Bike is a motorbike! <S> Supermarkets don't sell bicycles here, only LBSs (Local Bike Shop) do <S> We do have our share of bad bicycles but they do not even come close to the worthlessness of a BSO MTB style frames? <S> Cheap dual suspensions? <S> Y-Frames? <S> Glittering multi-coloured stickers?We have them all but they still are not BSOs! <S> Because, they never have bad brakes and other critical components <S> They are just bad bicyles, but they can easily withstand a few thousand kilometres and harsh tropical climate without much fuss <S> The worst we get is rattling noises from loose metal mudguards and creaking noises from the cheap suspensions <S> What do we call them? <S> Cheap cycles <A> In Poland "BSO" term is not widely recognized, nor used. <S> This site is the very first place I've encountered it. <S> I guess in non-english speaking world the situation is similar. <S> If one will translate this term to polish, taking into account cultural context, it would be "wyrób roweropodobny", what, when translated back, whould mean: "bike-like product", "bike substitute product", "fake bicycle", as we had "fake chocolate", "fake cheese" and so to describe cheap substitute of some goods. <S> This term is not widely used. <S> What is widely used as equivalent of "BSO" in Poland is "rower marketowy", what, generally speaking, means: "bicycle from supermarket". <S> The polish translation of "bicycle" whould be "bicykl", BUT this word is rather old fasioned and obsolete. <S> We use word "rower", which comes from polonified name of british company "Rover" owned by John Starley, that were exporting its early production here in 1885. <A> and I've certainly known the term since the very early 90's. <S> As other posters have said, it normally denotes a very cheap bike from a department store or chain store and can be recognised by nearly always being made from poorly MIG welded steel tubing rather than the TIG welded alloy, cromoly or even titanium of more expensive 'proper' bicycles. <A> I believe it originated with a shop in Brighton, England, called South Coast Bikes. <S> Certainly that is where I first heard it. <S> I used it yesterday to an acquaintance who did not know it. <S> This led to me looking for the original, which led to me finding this question before I found the answer. <S> Here's an updated, sadly undated, web page that the shop have extracted from their own blog explaining why buying a BSO is a bad idea: <S> https://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/No_BSO.asp <S> Note that the comments go back to 2006. <S> I think this page's content was adapted from an older page <S> and I think the term goes back to the turn of the century.
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Even hobbyists and serious cyclists are usually not aware of this term Most people buy bikes in the local bike shops, but shops tend to have a wide variety from cheap, simple, factory-built ones to high-end custom-built, so the fact that they are sold in LBSs isn't necessarily a criterium for quality or price. It's a very useful term and really ought to be more widely-known. It's not clear if the Cycling Experts came up with the term themselves or if it was in use before 2001.... I'm from the UK and we definitely use the expression BSO
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is it possible to go and install a suspension onto a bike that dosen't have any suspension? I have a huffy 3.0 fortress mountain bike, I have to ride on some bumpy roads and trails, I have a friend who has a bike that has suspension. I rode it once and it was very smooth when I went over a speed bump. So I wondered if it was possible to install a suspension onto my bike. I tried to search it up, but I didn't find anything helpful. So I decided to see if any of you can answer that. <Q> You could add a suspension fork (this bike seems to come with a very low quality one) or suspension seatpost or suspension stem. <S> Another option is to get the biggest tires that fit and run them at a low pressure, which should provide some shock absorption. <S> But this bike wasn't intended for use off-road really -- just to be ridden a few miles on road. <A> You can but if it was ME, I wouldn't do it. <S> The fork would cost more than the bike is worth. <S> You may be able to find a used bike that accepts larger tires at the or near the same cost as a good quality fork. <S> I ride with a bike shop mechanic that has a bike with 4.25 or 4.5 + size tires and it is surprisingly softer on bumps than most full suspension bike. <S> I rode it and was amazed. <S> You also, have the added benefit of not having to replace expensive suspension parts when they wear out <A> If you add front suspension you must worry about geometry and handling changes. <S> Is it possible/sensible to add a suspension fork to an old mountain bike? <S> A paralellogram seatpost is helpful. <S> Until recently, only Thudbuster was available by their patent ran out <S> and now there is plenty of identical looking competition. <S> I was doing a lot of off road riding on a Surly Crosscheck. <S> I got a Thudbuster seatpost. <S> It helped a lot for the shocks on my rear end. <S> But it didn't help at all for the shocks on hands and through hands to head. <S> After about a year I developed a focus problem in one eye. <S> Got a full suspension bike and have never looked back. <S> Now I went the opposite way. <S> I put aerobars on the MTB, which is great for long distance mixed terrain riding, so that I can take the weight off my hands now and again on the road parts.
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On such a low end bike though, only the suspension seatpost would make sense -- for the other options, you're more likely better off getting a new bike.
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Why have suspension stems disappeared? I remember in the early 1990s contemplating getting a suspension stem for my 1989 non-suspended Rockhopper MTB. I'm surprised that suspension stems appear to have essentially disappeared. Why? They seemed a cheap and easy solution to give a bike front suspension. They could also be made lighter than suspension forks. What were the negatives? <Q> To make suspension effective, it must decouple light-weight moving parts from heavy stable parts. <S> For this reason it is most effective to suspend the wheels - they will move fast up and down, while the frame and the rider will not move vertically. <S> A suspension stem is not very effective because it does not carry much vertical load. <S> A suspension seat post is better but will never work as well as wheel suspension. <S> You can observe the same principle in cars: light-weight aluminium rims are better for suspension than heavier steel rims. <A> Former Alsop Suspension Stem rider here... as much as I respect everyone's answers above I can say that Alsop suspension stem advocates would disagree with some of the assertions. <S> Alsop's motto was "suspend the rider not the bike". <S> So as far as having to decouple light-weight moving parts from heavy stable parts for suspension to work... <S> That is exactly what an Alsop does, decouples the rider from the frequency vibration of the bike. <S> Alsop stems, at least the later models, <S> were spring loaded not polymer loaded. <S> They traveled as a parallelogram giving about an inch to an inch and a half of travel. <S> The parallelogram motion of the Alsop is what set them apart from competing suspension stems. <S> Other suspension stems <S> (Girvin Flex Stem) used a swing/pivot point which limited the overall travel and rotated the handlebars along an arc during compression. <S> At the time I loved my Alsop Frankenstem... the problem and what eventually caused me to walk away from the product was they tended to wear out fast. <S> Bushings constantly needed to be serviced. <S> Additionally, they were susceptible to catastrophic failure. <S> Over the course of 3 years I had 2 stems <S> fail... <S> horrible crashes and stitches were the result <S> so I spent the better part of the next 20 years riding rigid bikes. <A> I see suspension stems making a comeback. <S> If you do some searching you can find lots of examples . <S> Most of them provide under 20mm of travel, while mountain bike forks usually provide at a minimum 80mm of travel. <S> However, the suspension stems are getting somewhat popular with the gravel grinding trend that is gaining popularity, or even in places where the quality of asphalt leaves something to be desired. <A> I was a starving student and couldn't afford them. <S> Many were as expensive as my bike itself. <S> 2) Brakes. <S> Like many mountain bikes at the time, I had cantilever brakes. <S> These required a fixed position above the brakes for the brakes to pull against -- for the front brakes, it was the handlebar stem. <S> That would add to the cost. <S> Those were the reasons I didn't get them at the time. <S> Now, mtbs have switched to disc brakes or V-brakes, so the brakes aren't a reason to get them. <A> They work more like a damping of the shock rather than absorbing it. <S> Shocks might weight more but are good for down hill. <S> I had a Girvin for my road bike <S> and it was down to weight. <S> It worked well on poor bumpy road conditions and gave better control through damping.
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In sort: suspension stems are ineffective for suspension, add weight and complexity, and potentially dangerous failure modes. Limited travel and rotating controls led to the demise of the competition long before Alsop succumbed to the suspension fork. I was thinking back to the 1990s when I was looking at these suspension stems and remembered why I didn't get them then : 1) Price. However, they aren't usually found on mountain bikes because they provide nowhere close to the amount of of travel that today's mountain bikers demand. So if I switched to a suspension stem, I'd have to get a brake bridge or go to another type of brake.
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What variables best determine bicycle fit for an individual without riding it? Trying to decide a bicycle purchase, not sure how to choose the best fit bike for my body type. Should I measure my leg length, torso length, arm length, body build, does my gender make a difference? <Q> One thing that does make a major difference is the type of bike. <S> I'll address this from the point of view of what most beginners ride -- things like Euro-style city bikes, hybrids, and basic mountain bikes. <S> So most bikes that most beginners (based on your tags) would start riding on are quite forgiving. <S> For a conventional geometry, leg length (i.e. seat tube length) is the biggest factor. <S> This is the key number in the frame size, and the frame is the most important thing to get right as there are no (cost-effective) adjustments or substitutions possible. <S> When cheap bikes are sized by a single number, it's usually based on this length, but comparison between makes isn't simply a matter of the length. <S> To some extent a too-small frame can be compensated for by raising the saddle, but it's much better to keep this for fine-tuning as too much seat post extension often results in the handlebars being too low. <S> A frame that's too big can lead to disomfort or injury, even if you don't have to worry about a top tube. <S> The reach (approximately top tube+ stem length) and stack (handlebar height) are secondary. <S> They scale with the seat tube so should be about right for a typically-proportioned person. <S> Both are also quite adjustable, though to get the most adjustment means swapping out parts. <S> The effect of this is that most people can buy a flat-bar bike based on top-tube height / frame size alone, and only worry about anything more than the most basic adjustments when they start considering longer rides. <S> Of course extra care is needed if you have back/leg etc. <S> problems. <A> The old and traditional way of measuring the seat-tube is now almost redundant since the creation of the compact and semi-compact frame geometry. <S> In this kind of geometry the cockpit size lengthens with the height of the seatpost. <S> It effectively allows a fewer bicycle sizes to cater for a greater range of rider heights. <S> Which in turn can also save on manufacturing costs. <S> And can allow a rider to ride a smaller / lighter frame. <S> Seat-tube is a way to measure clearance over the top bar of the bike - and in this instance better measured centre of BB to centre of top tube. <A> This article on my blog discusses some of the basics of "bike fit" https://audaxing.wordpress.com/2011/03/07/long-distance-ride-bike-fit-tips/ Steve Hogg has some great ideas about this area <S> and it's well worth reading anything by him http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/the-anatomy-of-bike-position/ <S> The info above is generally about "racing" bikes with drop bars
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Horizontal ETT - Effective Top Tube And Reach are the most critical - they are basically sizes for the cockpit of the bicycle. As a very general rule, the faster the bike is intended to be ridden, the more important the fit.
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Rear hub freewheel and casette I am having some issues with my drive trainsystem. I have changed my chain after quite a while (shame on me) with a new one, that i sized exactly on the same number of links as the old one. When pedalling however, when putting a high pressure on the pedal the chain skips. My issue is, whether the chain is not sized properly (since I havent had this issue before) or is there a problem with worn casette cogs or the freewheel. I get a from-factory setup of Sram casette and probably Shimano hub (not sure). The cogs are quite loose on the freewheel as you can see on the picture. I dont know if this normal, but would expect to hold firmly. I usually ride on tough gears, so I dont know if the end of the freehub is demaged by this as you can see on the picture, or it is the design of the freehub. Talking about the cogs, once again I dont know if they seem to be worn, or the edges are not sharp and look like this by design. I would very much appreciate your advice on whether the cogs, or freehub have to be changed or it is probably just an issue with the chain length. Thanks in advance ! :) Martin EDIT: I just made a video to demonstrate how loose the cogs are. Even after tightening the lock, one can still rotate the cogs on the freewheel. Is this normal ? My loose cogs on freehub (video on Youtube) EDIT 2:I also post the picture of the fron chainring. Is this worn to much, or you think this is more probably causing the chain skipping, than the rear? <Q> Are you worried that the cogs skip on the hub? <S> I'd consider this extremely unlikely. <S> The most likely reason is that the old chain has worn down the teeth of the cassette, especially when you ride on small cogs because the same load is distributed over fewer teeth. <S> If you happen to have the old chain around, measure the length over 10 elements (see my comment above): if 10 elements are longer than 25.9mm (from pin to pin), the old chain damaged the cogs and you need to replace the cassette. <S> The chainring in the front is often still good because it has more teeth and wears down slower. <S> The image shows the interaction between a new chain and a worn-out cog. <S> It is from technical documentation by Rohloff . <S> Having watched the video, I do think that the cassette is unusually loose. <S> While it would not cause the chain to skip, it will damage the hub. <S> I found this discussion on this site relevant: make sure to tighten the ring that holds the cassette in place. <S> A mix of road and MTB components could be the root of that problem. <A> If you don't replace the cassette immediately, the new chain will also experience accelerated wear. <S> Most freehubs are made of aluminum, which is light, cheap, and soft. <S> Some seems softer than others. <S> Also, manufacturing with higher tolerances is also cheaper. <S> The result is movement of the cogs, especially when the cogs are all separate pieces. <S> When the cogs dig into the freehub, they can be difficult to remove. <S> Tightening beyond the recommended 50 N/m (say to 70 N/m) can he helpful in controlling the digging, but there may be drawbacks as well .... <S> With a steel freehub, digging will not occur. <A> Bear in mind that you're only putting force on the cogs in one direction. <S> So they shouldn't move around too much once everything is assembled, even if they feel loose when you slip them on the cassette. <S> It's usually a good idea to replace the chain and the cassette at the same time. <S> If they're heavily worn and you only replace one of them, you may get chain skipping. <S> The divots that I see on your freehub are something to be expected - no need to replace the freehub.
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If the chain is skipping after replacing the chain, then it is almost certainly a matter of cassette wear.
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Which will wear longer, a single chainring with 11-speed cassette, or triple chainring with 8-speed cassette? I am thinking of replacing the latter with the former. Someone said that the chain having to stretch 11 different ways would wear down the drive train faster. I think that the chain will last longer if it's not being thrown around at both ends. Who's right? <Q> To all practical purposes, neither person is right. <S> Even if cross chaining wears out drive lines (highly debated), 1x11 cannot cross as much as 3x8. <S> A correctly choose chain ring on a 1x11 means you will normally be in a mid rear cog, so in normal riding, very little cross chaining would occur. <S> If you ride extremely hilly country, and often sit in very high or very low gears, then you will probably still have a similar chain angle to a 3x setup most of the time. <S> Within measurable parameters, a 1x11 will not wear out faster or slower than a 3x8. <S> Why are you worried about wear. <S> A 3x8 speed drive train is much cheaper than a 1x11, so replacement is cheaper. <S> There are valid reasons to go 1x11, and valid reasons not to, but wear is not one of them. <A> If you have a 3x front, odds are you will spend about half your time on the center ring and the other half split between the other two. <S> So you get roughly twice as much wear before front rings first need replacement. <S> Having an 11x back will generally spread wear a bit more widely than an 8x back, meaning the 11x can go a little further than the 8x, on average. <S> Net-net is that it doesn't really matter. <S> What's important is which arrangement best fits your riding style. <A> There's a couple different factors to consider. <S> First of all, the 8 speed setup is going to use a chain with wider plates. <S> Another thing to look at is the amount of cross chaining. <S> Cross chaining occurs when then two sprockets don't like up in a straight line between the front and the back, see the picture below. <S> With the 3x8 setup, althought more extreme cross chaining is possible, in practice the rider shouldn't be using these extreme gears too often anyway. <S> A 1x11 drive train is much more likely to be in a more extreme chain angle. <A> I think the focus is in the wrong place. <S> All your pedaling effort is transmitted via the chain, and causes wear on it, as well as on the various sprockets. <S> The eight speed chain is much wider (7.1 mm) than the 11 speed chain (5.62 mm), hence the chain wears faster. <S> (A simplistic argument, since there's more to it, but I've got to get out for a ride.) <S> The main reason road cyclists go for 10 or 11 speed chains and clusters is the weight. <S> But even among cyclists who do regular maintenence, I see broken chains more frequently with these systems, and almost never with 8 speed systems.
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A 1x11 setup will in practice undergo more cross chaining than the 3x8 setup because there's only a single ring at the front that has to accommodate all the rear gears. Over a large number of samples there might (although I have doubts) be a very small but statistically significant difference. This means that assuming both chains are of equal quality, the 8 speed chain will last longer because it's made of more material. Chain wear and lifetime of drive chain comes down to a combination of regular maintenance, how much and in what way a bike is used. If you have a 3x front and use it "normally", you will tend to use the larger front ring with smaller rear cogs, and vice-versa, reducing the amount of cross-chaining you'd have as compared to a single ring.
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Worried I damaged my fork fitting crown race I'm an idiot. I've been working on building up a Surly LHT frame and was all going fine until I got to fitting the crown race. I couldn't get it to fit properly and instead of making a cup of tea and watching some how-to videos like I normally would, I fitted a metal pipe on the crown and a bit of PVC pipe above that and rested the forks on some carpet and smacked the pipe really hard with a metal bar. When I stopped I'd gone through the carpet and put a small (1mm) dent in the bottom of one of the dropouts (not deformed them). After that I went to my LBS and they milled the fork down a bit and fitted the race. I've inspected the fork really carefully - no visible damage or bending. Is there any chance hitting it that hard could have damaged it somehow? I just don't know enough about steel as a material. <Q> Nobody is going to be able to tell you 100% that its integrity hasn't been compromised from this. <S> We all know it's a tough dropout and in all likelihood <S> it's totally fine. <S> But there's always a level of distant hypothetical risk that gets created when things like this happen to bike parts, and nobody can tell you just how distant. <S> Were a slightly more developed guess to be made, the first steps in getting there would be check dropout alignment (with dropout alignment tools), check the size and parallelism of the dropout slot with a caliper, and ideally check the fork alignment. <S> The detail that's lost in time here, especially from an outside perspective, is exactly how hard it got hit. <A> I am not a framebuilder but I seriously doubt you did any damage. <S> The main type of failure of a fork is that the fork tangs pull away from the fork crown. <S> You can look for wrinkling in the paint around the fork crown - if there it would run parallel to the floor and/or shoreline of the fork crown shoreline(s). <S> Steel forks are unbelievably over-engineered, which is why they weigh ~850 grams (see : http://www.ece.ubc.ca/~gillies/raleigh/weights.txt for my fork weights) unlike carbon forks which weigh 300-500 grams, I wouldn't worry. <S> I have bent the same steel fork 3 times in head-on <S> collision(s) <S> but that fork never broke (however on the 3rd bending I purchased a new chromed fork to replace it since the original fork was clearly getting used to the bending and might crack or snap the next time I bent it). <S> Most of the time steel fails in a very slow-motion way over a number of miles of riding and will do things (like make weird noises or start to pull to on side or another) to let you know that a stress crack is growing. <S> Carbon and Aluminum tend to fail in really catastrophic ways with no warning, which is why Steel is still an extremely popular material for bicycle frames. <A> OK just an update. <S> In the end I decided to take the hit and get a new fork. <S> Just didn't seem worth the worry not too. <S> It's a lesson learned and part of getting to know more about my bike. <S> When the new fork arrived it came with a manual which specifically said not to to hit the fork when resting it on the floor. <S> I think the chance of damage is very slight, but still, it's there. <S> From now on I only gently tap stuff on my bike and make sure <S> it's very well suspended from sharp impacts.
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This would indicate some compression damage to the fork blades. Steel can fatigue, brazed dropout joints are strong but not infinitely strong, etc.
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How can I stop an Adult trike when both front brakes fail? I have a lovely easy adult trike and I use it all the time.Now the thing is because it's a trike, it only has front brakes. Well on the 14th Feb I was riding to my local charity, got to the hill and was riding it down when Twang the brake wire snapped and I desperately tried the other front brake this was gone too ... now this path leads on to a very busy road, with the two chicanes with metal fences ... with both brakes gone. I had no choice but to run into the second fence, a silver metal bar type. Sorry about this long question is there any way I can add a brake to the two rear wheels of my trike to stop this happen again? If this can't be done can I stop myself any other way? ..... Update on this question. The brakes have been fixed for now... Tires are pumped up and I am oiling the Chain drive....Have to check the information provided.Thanks please continue to answer the above question. Just bare in mind I am new...sorry if finding an answer takes a long time.. I like to look at all options. <Q> Answering for completeness: Don't get in this situation and Prevention is better than cure <S> You should have picked up that the brakes were not as good as they were by feel (poor braking) or on visual inspection <S> noticed that the inner cables were starting to fray. <S> Most bikes have two independent brakes. <S> For yours to both fail at the same time is quite unlikely. <S> And even if you did successfully add a rear brake, a continuous lack of maintenance may leave that in as bad a state as the other two brakes, A basic M check should be done weekly. <A> So just to be clear, the practical answer is probably have a shop get the front brakes set up properly again for you. <S> But to actually answer the question: Most trikes can't take any kind of rim brake on the rear wheels, so that's out. <S> However, there are a couple different schemes that trike drivetrains employ, and some of them do give you the option of adding a hub brake. <S> You'd have to get one that's modified to have a cog attached to it, but companies that make trikes with this kind of drivetrain arrangement do sell them aftermarket. <S> (Most trikes like this come with coaster brakes anyway though, so this is kind of a long shot.) <S> Here's a picture of how this kind of trike drivetrain works: If your trike has derailer gearing, which is a potential reason there's no rear coaster brake already, then if you added a coaster you'd have to give it up, and you'd also have to make sure the chain could still be tensioned acceptably. <S> There also has to be something to attach the hub's reaction arm to. <S> Some trikes with this design also have disc mounts, so you could use a disc hub and keep your derailers: <S> If your trike is of a type where the chain drives the rear axle directly, there's probably no way of adding a brake in back. <A> This should probably be a comment, posting as an answer since i don't have enough reputation and since it is too long for a comment <S> anyway <S> I had borrowed a friend's bike for a quick ride to the grocery store last evening but decided to take a longer joy ride <S> I was on a downhill at a good speed when I realized both brakes <S> were barely effective <S> I quickly pulled my handkerchief, folded/rolled it as best as i could with one hand, held it on my fingers and pulled it hard against the rear wheel rim (simulating a rim brake's one arm/pad) <S> I came to a stop in a couple of seconds/few meters distance <S> This was on a busy road, with the usual assortment of chaotic Indian traffic,a crash would have been quite a wreck <A> Just make sure your leg is behind the pedal or you will risk <S> leg injuries (ex. broken leg). <S> Drag your foot (shoe) on the tire. <S> Make sure the rotating wheel can't pinch your foot somewhere in between the bike frame and wheel / spokes. <S> As a last resort: jump off! <S> The injuries you will sustain from the fall will be far less than what you can expect by getting hit by a car.
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If the chain coming off your cranks attaches to a modified conventional rear hub that then has another chain coming off it to drive the back axle, then that hub may be replaceable with a coaster brake hub. As everyone has said, it's true that basic maintenance should keep this situation from ever occurring. Drag your foot (shoe) on the ground, the more weight you apply on the foot the faster you will stop.
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Mounting light on handlebar with bag installed On my bike I have installed an handlebar bag (the Ortlieb Ultimate 5).Since I am also considering installing lights on the handlebar, I am afraid they will be simply shielded by the bag. The clerk of the bike shop where I asked for information assured me the handlebar bags are designed to ensure handlebar lights can be used, but I am not sure and I don't want to try it by buying an expensive light that I cannot then use. In the picture you can see the bag holder as installed on the handlebar. The bag will exceed its level of few centimeters. <Q> As Chris H notes, the clerk was wrong. <S> And he suggests a good suggestion to raise the light above the bag. <S> However, you can also mount the light below the bag as well. <S> Operating on the same principle as fog lights on cars, low mounted lights can do a better job of showing some road hazards. <S> They are also much less likely to blind drivers and pedestrians (StVZO-compliant handlebar lights are still sadly rare). <S> Here's a google image search for " bicycle lights fork mount ". <S> In addition to the fork crown lights, there are also front fork adapters that let you mount handlebar lights on one of the legs of the front fork. <S> Here's a blown up image of the top left two -- a fork-mount adapter and a light mounted on said adapter. <S> Note that this placement is just about where ye' olde friction dynamo lights used to be mounted. <S> Another option is of course a helmet light : <A> Montageset -- this is in German, the link to the English language page was broken. <S> The second image is a view from the front and how the adapter fits into the bag-mounting fixture. <S> The price is below 20 Euro. <A> The clerk was wrong, in the sense that modern lights sit very close to the bar, as do bags. <S> Very wide bars might give you an option but your picture suggests you don't have very wide bars. <S> A search for "handlebar light extender" turned up a few including this one from Topeak . <S> There are also lots designed for mounting lower, for example built in to a front mudguard or mounted on a front rack (if you have either of these accessories). <S> Most bike shops should be able to try things together if you take the bike in with the bag fitted. <A> Since your bicycle frame is made of tubes and most lights approximate tubes, our problem is basically "attach tube to other tube" and is a pretty straightforward piece of design work in any CAD software. <S> If you know somebody with a 3D printer, you can sketch up a mount pretty easily and have them run one off for you regardless of what Ortlieb makes. <S> If you don't, you can try 3DHubs, Shapeways, and other sites in that vein. <S> If you have access to a wood or machine shop, you could make something appropriate out of almost any stock. <S> with just a few operations.
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There are lights that will mount on the crown of the front wheel fork (where the bolt for caliper brakes and mudguards attaches), but those might still hit the bottom of the bag -- although the Ortlieb bag shown in Christian Lundvig's photo is quite small and thus compatible with fork crown mount lights. I saw a product the other day (while in the bike shop buying grips) designed to sort this out by lifting the lights over the top of the bars. Ortlieb is selling an adapter for this problem: Ortlieb Aufsatz für Ultimate6
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Repair priorities, bike wheel or brakes Money's been a bit tight lately for a number of reasons and I commute 2 hours a day on my bike for work. Slowly, but surely my bike has taken a toll and I REALLY need to do some light maintenance on it. At the moment now, my bike wheels (rims?), due to a crash, are bent and it looks like it's unnaturally pressing against my tires. They wobble and it's much more noticeable when going fast, but other than that I do not see any issues with it. The other major repair is my brakes are completely out. The do not work at all. The method I use to slow down is to put my feet out and drag them well into advance if I even think I need to stop. The problem with this, is very obvious as it is rather dangerous and it is quickly eating the soles of my shoes which I cannot replace those either at the moment. As much as I would like to take public transportation or get a ride, that is out of the question. I am too far out and none of my coworkers are willing to drive roughly an hour out for me. There is no public transportation near my home, so I have to actually ride a good distance to a bus stop inside of the city. I managed to sell what little I own as I only need to survive for less than two weeks to get paid and have proper repairs done, but in the meantime, which one of the two repairs should I have done, wheels or brakes? <Q> Both. <S> It's a bit like asking whether you should fix the brakes or balding tires on a car - you need to fix both to be safe on the road. <S> See if there isn't a bike coop or community repair station in your neighborhood: <S> Truing your wheels requires some elbow grease but shouldn't require any parts (unless your spokes are broken). <S> In terms of tools, at minimum you need a spoke wrench ($5) and ideally a truing stand, but you can do a fair job truing against your brake pads. <S> The coop will definitely have spoke wrenches and may have a truing stand. <S> Repairing your brakes at most would require new pads ($5-10) and maybe new brake cables ($10-15). <S> Replacing brakes and cables requires just an assortment of small hex wrenches and allen wrenches, which the coop will have. <S> The true cost is in the labor and if you can do it yourself with youtube and human help, you should be able to get it in at least running conditions. <S> For the wheel truing, I'd try to go for just "good enough" and not perfect -- and try to get someone to supervise you -- as it's easy to mess up truing if you go too far. <S> If you don't have a coop in your location, the spoke wrench, Allen wrench, and small hex wrench should all cost less than $25 total for cheap ones or for a multi tool that has them all. <S> The real value of the coop is someone looking over your shoulder to help, especially with the wheel truing. <S> Given that an accident on your way to work will cost you lost wages, maybe losing your job, and perhaps a hefty hospital bill, spending $25 for a self-tune or around $100 for a bike shop to do it is money well spent. <A> Answer: <S> Both Brakes are absolutely critical number 1 top priority to have working on your bike. <S> What tools do you have available? <S> I would expect you will require: definitely a Spoke nipple wrench. <S> You might get away using a medium flat-head screwdriver if you take the tube and tyre and rim tape off, but the spoke itself often gets in the way <S> maybe 8/10mm spanner or small adjustable wrench/crescent maybe <S> 4/5/6 mm hex key/allen key <S> Sizes depend on the fasteners your particular bike has. <S> There's a chance the required tools are on a bike multitool, if you have one then look closely at it. <S> Stopping by dragging your feet is better than stopping with your face, but its a last resort. <S> Footwear isn't cheap, and neither is medical attention. <A> Other answers already explained that both repairs are necessary. <S> This answer suggests a few ways you might get help to fix it all yourself. <S> At many places in the world are bicycle cooperatives or similar forms of volunteer bike shops. <S> Parts are often available as second-hand spares or at discounted prices. <S> To locate one, have a look at a list of community bicycle organizations , contact your country's cycling organisation, or post your location in comments/as a new question. <S> You might find repair cafes , or hacker spaces that could help you. <S> Lastly, most cycling enthusiast are more than happy to help other cyclists. <S> Do you know any cafés or pubs where cyclists meet after their weekend runs? <S> Go there and ask if they know community initiatives that can help you. <S> (Hearing your plight, some might help you themselves right away.)
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The wheels being out of true will impact on your ability to fix the brakes properly. Basic repairs, especially those concerned with bike safety, can be done with the help of other community members. But you don't need to shell out a huge amount of money.
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Did I pay too much for repairs on road bike? Should I have bought new? I originally paid $250 for a Schwinn road bike on Amazon 5 years ago. It's been a really solid bike, even though I know it's just a mass produced brand. I didn't know any better and did no repairs or maintenance for 5 years and it made it through 3 triathlons just fine. 6 months ago I started commuting with it and so wanted to add on a rear rack and swap out the tires. Total upgrade cost was about $200. Just this month I wanted to get a full tune up - $124. New chain, all new cables, new grip tape, new pedals, new brake pads, etc adds up to $320 total. So I've spend $550 in repairs and upgrades on what was originally a $250 bike. Did I make a huge mistake and should I have just bought a new commuter or road bike from a decent brand for $700, or is it just fine to spend that much on repairs? <Q> Bicycles cost money to maintain. <S> Even if you do all your own mechanic work, you still need to purchase parts. <S> By this <S> I mean you can purchase a replacement derailleur (of roughly the same quality) for a $250 for perhaps $10 to $20. <S> If you had purchased a $2000 bike, that "same quality" derailleur may run you $100. <S> The point being, if you had purchased a $700 bicycle up front and done no maintenance, you likely would have spent roughly the same amount of money or slightly more on repairs (based on your description). <S> More expensive bicycles and parts do not require less maintenance. <S> In your case, if you were happy with the performance of your $250 bicycle for five years before you needed to spend money on it, you may have been better off buying a new $250 bike. <S> ~$50/year for a bicycle that you are happy with seems like a good return. <A> It is all a balance, and you shouldn't just think about it from an entirely monetary point of view: By keeping the same bike- <S> you didn't have another one produced for you, all that energy saved by reuse. <S> You also have a bike with a known history- <S> you know how it fits you, you know where its been. <S> The components on your cheaper bike, are, well, cheaper. <S> So if you need to replace anything in the future, they should be cheaper. <S> If you had bought a $700/1400/2000 bike, then all of the components would also be more expensive to replace as well. <A> A nicer bike tends to be nicer to ride, or faster, or better climbing. <S> They still wear at about the same rates. <S> So your $550 of repairs would be about the same if your bike originally cost $2k. <S> Another way to think of it is cost per kilometre. <S> Work out how far you have ridden and divide the total costs by the distance for a $/km number. <S> My example Used road bike $123 <S> Tyres @$50 <S> x3 $150 <S> Tubes <S> @$6 <S> x4 $24 <S> Bartape @$10 <S> x2 $20 <S> Long seat post <S> $55 <S> Commuting lights <S> $100 <S> Pedals and cleats $80 <S> Top tube bag $9 Replacement front derailleur mechanism $60 and <S> bike shop labour $90 <S> Grand total of $711. <S> I've ridden this bike 7047 km in 15 months, so it cost me 10.1 cents per kilometre, or about $48 a month. <S> EDIT <S> I'm using New Zealand Dollars and prices. <S> Petrol here is $2.05 (New Zealand dollars / L) <S> = <S> $5.58 <S> ( U.S. dollars / US gallon ) <S> and 10c/km includes buying the bike as well. <S> A car figure would have to include the purchase cost of the car. <S> I think if you want to save money, look into doing more of the maintenance yourself. <S> Separate the cost of the parts from the cost of the labour to fit them. <S> Bikes are relatively simple machines, and while some tasks require specialist tools, a basic toolkit can do a lot. <S> As a rebuttal of consumerism consider this counter-example <S> 20 years ago I bought a used car for $10k, and filled the tank once a fortnight. <S> This car has cost be $29k in petrol alone, plus repairs. <S> Should I have bought a new one ? <A> rear rack and swap out the tires. <S> Total upgrade cost was about $200. <S> full tune up - $124. <S> New chain, all new cables, new grip tape, new pedals, new brake pads, etc adds up to $320 total. <S> Unprofessional answer: <S> wow. <S> Yes, this was expensive. <S> I cannot say whether you spent "too much" as I don't know the average prices where you live. <S> But the items you listed are very easy to do yourself. <S> Some of these would be, in my book, essential to know how to do on a day in the wilderness. <S> Bicycles are remarkably easy to get into maintaining yourself. <S> Go buy a nice thick book about bicycle maintenance, buy tools as you go (you do not need that many - basically a good multitool, which you should have with you on rides anyway) and a few very cheap other items. <S> My tools live in my bicycle backpack all year long. <S> Except for a few things which are non-obvious (especially/mainly the area that connects the handle bar with the front wheel) everything else should be quite easy, painless and sometimes even fun to get into. <S> Some things can be a bit fiddly, but for everything there is good literature, forums etc. <S> The point is not only for you to save money for the mechanic, but to get a feeling about which parts actually need regular maintenance (like, after every drive), and which are OK to let sit for a while (e.g., monthly, quarterly, yearly). <S> After a while, it's all just a breeze.
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That being said, more expensive bikes are generally more expensive to maintain at the level you bought them at.
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How to minimize wear on brakes? My daily commute consists of a quite steep last part (around 1 km with average 12% steepness). On my way back home when going downhill, I have to extensively use my brakes to (more or less) keep the speed limit of 30 km/h, and to avoid risks of course. Is there an optimal "brake strategy" to reduce the wear on my brakes? For example, is it better to use them in "intervals" (going to 35-40 km/h and then braking back to 25), or use them constantly (keeping around 30 km/h)? EDIT: Rim brakes <Q> Wear on rim brakes can be reduced by washing your bike to remove grit from the wheels, and by cleaning out the cleaning grooves in your brake pads. <S> You can also increase braking effect by sitting up as much as possible, so your body acts as an airbrake. <S> This will reduce the braking effort required by your rims. <S> Are there any routes with perhaps a greater distance but lower elevation changes? <S> Remember, no braking on the turns. <S> You need to drop your velocity before hitting the corner, then drift through the corner. <S> Braking on the turn makes you more likely to loose traction. <A> Front rims tend to stay cleaner than back rims, and dirt is abrasive <S> so (as well as being good technique) <S> a preference for the front brake will extend the life of your pads. <S> On downhills it's <S> a bit different - heat is an issue not just for pad life but for safety. <S> Hills round here tend towards short and sharp, so I use the back brake (lightly) for not going faster and keep the front for stopping. <S> On longer descents I rest the back brake by giving the front a turn. <S> There are good reasons to avoid going fast-slow-fast-slow: following traffic (whether cars or bikes) won't expect sudden slowing on a clear road and you (presumably) don't have a brake light as your stopping distance increases a lot with speed <S> you don't have to go much faster for hazards (like side streets because many drivers don't understand bikes that go quick) to get more significant. <S> Even good brake pads (which last longer than cheap ones) aren't expensive, and it's easy to change them yourself (front or rear in a session, then test, at least until you're experienced) <S> so pad wear shouldn't be your top consideration - riding for the conditions should be. <A> Another more expensive option is to add a third brake. <S> Tandems frequently have drum brakes in the hub of the rear wheel, and while they don't really stop the bike, they work to limit the top speed on a downhill. <S> Upsides <S> continuous gentle braking to limit your top speed <S> Rider can set the amount of braking effect - they're not on/off switches. <S> Downsides Cost of hub and have to replace all spokes with shorter ones due to the larger flange. <S> You need a reaction arm, which means either a tab or a clamp on your chainstay on the left side. <S> Have to rebuild your wheel to put them in instead of the existing rear hub <S> Another brake control - my tandem used a bar-end lever for the rear drum. <S> Its easy to forget to unset the brake, limiting your speed once off the grade. <S> I never had a problem with heat. <S> Hub from rear. <S> Note cassette is a 6 speed. <S> Hub with reaction arm onto chainstay <A> You don't say whether you are using disc or rim brake. <S> With disc there are various grades of pad - sintered, organic and semi-metal (resin). <S> Sintered last the longest. <S> Rim brake there are various different compounds available for the pads and it is a case of experimenting with the options. <S> Swissstop offer high quality pads for various conditions. <S> This usually involves the technique of "feathering" the brakes - whereby the brakes are applied with just enough force to control speed.
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Hard braking will also cause excessive wear - so the approach would be to be as smooth as possible on the brakes.
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How to make a derailleur work in opposite directions? I am making a bike for a school project that can switch between upright and pseudo-prone position. It has two sets of crank assembly; one on one side of the rear gear set and one on the other; the task is to be able to switch positions. However, the problem is that when you use drive train for one position, it works fine and the derailleur can change gears easily. But the same can't be done for the other position because the derailleur only works in one direction. One potential solution is to fix one gear(the biggest or the smallest) for one position and switch the other gears for the other position. Could someone please help me fix it such that all the gears can be used in both positions? Here's a picture of the bike's design to explain: <Q> When you switch to the crankset behind cogs, you need to move the derailleur above the cogset. <S> Think of it as rotating the entire drive <S> train 180 degrees forward or flipping the entire bike over the bars and then moving wheels down until they touch the ground. <S> Note that the different crank positions require different chain length. <A> One thing that comes to mind is by employing a variation of the Retro Direct concept, you could have both cranks/chains on at the same time, and there wouldn't have to be any mechanical mode switching, just get in the different position. <S> The problem there is it would be a two or one speed unless you found a way to get the freewheels on an internally geared hub. <S> There are some links on that page that show ways of doing Retro Direct with primarily normal parts. <S> The only way I can think of two do what you describe using a normal rear derailer is have <S> both the front and rear cranks go to turn a spindle (idler?) <S> with another freewheel on it that is then connected to the rear wheel and derailer. <S> The back cranks would then be turning that spindle with a retro direct type setup to reverse the direction (or maybe there's some other mechanical trick to do so, not sure.) <A> To expand on my comment from last night: <S> I suggest using a similar setup to a tandem (crossover synchronisation chain). <S> Install this in the normal upright position. <S> A tandem front crankset just has the timing chainring on the left, nothing on the right. <S> Install this in the prone position, with a very long chain on the left -- you might need an idler gear or two to keep the chainline clear of obstructions. <S> You might want to start by reading Sheldon Brown's page on building tandems especially the section about front drive, as well as <S> John S Allen's page on tandem drivertrains Unless you plan on getting from one riding position to the other while moving (YouTube or it didn't happen), you might want to remove the unused front pedals rather than having them spinning near your body parts. <S> Shielding the rest of the drivetrain from contacting you or your clothing would probably be a good idea during the development/testing phase.
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A tandem rear crankset has chainring(s) on the right and another gear on the left for the timing chain.
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Saddle height for toddler's balance bike My toddler (two and a half years old) has just started scooting around on her balance bike. I'd like to ensure that the saddle is at the best height for her to learn to balance. I know the rules of thumb for adjusting this on an adult bike with pedals, but they obviously don't apply here! What is the ideal height, probably expressed in terms of how straight her legs should be when sitting on the saddle? <Q> They grow so fast it really doesn't matter, but if the kid looks too low then they are, so go up a bit. <S> Rider should be able to stand over the seat with both feet on the ground. <S> While some balance bikes have bike seats with clamps like this, they're in the minority for cost and weight reasons. <S> This wooden frame is far more common and much lighter for the child to manage. <S> Notice the seat-pole (plank?) only has two visible holes, for a total of only three seat positions. <A> The main thing is that the child feels comfortable and confident that they have control. <S> At the start most kids want to be able to sit with their feet flat on the ground and their knees bent slightly. <S> It's all about developing their confidence. <S> As they gain confidence and want to go faster they will need the seat to go little higher. <S> Of course they also need it to be raised as they grow. <S> I recommend adjusting the seat by very small amounts, about 1 mm, at a time. <S> Do it while the child is asleep, so that it does not become an issue. <A> These bikes are propelled by a running motion so it's important to be able to bend the legs. <S> But you don't want the saddle so very low that they can sit down and waddle too easily without getting enough speed up to balance. <S> To be honest though, confidence and willingness to get on is more important than "ideal" height, so you may well need to set it lower than you'd like.
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Others may be happy with their knees straight, but it's better to start too low than too high. Don't overthink this, just be an encouraging parent :)
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Adapter for moving bottle cage up/down while using frame's bottle cage braze-ons Are there adapters available for moving a bottle cage up/down in the frame? I am trying to move my seat tube's bottle cage down 4-5 centimeters and I prefer using the braze-ons. Note: the question is about options using the frame's braze-ons, not external adapters. <Q> There are a number of commercial products available to move bottle cages up or down from the existing braze-ons. <S> Given they're in the $10 range <S> it's probably a better use of your time to buy one than DIY. <A> I use "Topeak Handlebar Water Bottle Cage Mount" to mount an extra water bottle cage on the fork of my MTB for long rides. <S> (Nowhere else to put it). <S> There are two parts: a metal band with holes and a plastic box with a screw to attach and adjust it - there is a screw passing through a metal plate in the plastic box adjusting the height of the plate which effectively makes the adjustment range continuous. <S> an attachment that goes on a 0 deg or 90 deg and contains the holes for the cage <S> Also Max diameter onto which it can mount is ~38 mm <S> The offset from mounting surface to cage holes is ~36.5 mm. <S> Because it attaches with a metal band it is not suitable for a carbon frame. <S> cost 7 to 9 dollars <A> I had the same problem of too-low bottle bosses (since I prefer to use short bottles), and could not simply use a clamp-on bracket because the down tube is not round but "streamlined" (yeah, right). <S> What I did is get a strip of aluminum bar (from a hardware store). <S> Without going out to the garage to look at it, I'm thinking it's about 1" wide and 1/4" thick, or maybe a little smaller than that. <S> I cut off a piece of the bar that was twice the distance between the bosses, plus about 2". <S> I then drilled three holes in the bar, spaced as far apart as the bosses. <S> (This places the first hole about 1" from one end of the bar, the second in the middle, and the third 1" from the other end.) <S> To mount, first use a screw through the bottom hole in the bar and into the bottom boss. <S> Next take your cage and run a screw <S> (you may need to get a longer one) through the bottom hole of the cage, the middle hole of the bar, and into the top boss. <S> Finally use a screw and nut to secure the top of the cage to the bar, through the top hole. <S> I've found this to be quite stable -- no problem with rattling, etc (though I suppose it might be a bit rattly for mountain bikers), and it has never bent or come loose. <A> You could use one or two of these SKS bottle cage anywhere adapters to move your bottle cage location. <S> If you used just one, you'd use one of your existing cage bosses. <S> With two, you have total flexibility in positioning <A> If you can't find anything specifically made for this. <S> Maybe just get a metal bracket or other similar piece of metal. <S> Hopeful, you can find something with fewer holes than pictured. <S> Drill some holes in it to customize and place it exactly where you want it.
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There are numerous Water Bottle Cage Mount adapters. They're marketed as a Bottle Cage Relocator or Bottle Cage Adapter , but essentially they're all a flat piece of metal with holes drilled into it that may have some finishing work to make it look nicer.
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How do you know if your wheel is correctly centered? I am from India and I have a one month old commuter bicycle. I have once tried adjusting front wheel using the quick release, but I haven't removed the tire. How do I know if the wheel is correctly centered? <Q> If your brakes are rubbing, or the wheel is rubbing on the frame then you probably need to adjust the wheel or the brakes. <S> The quickest way to check is to use the brakes. <S> 1) Pull the brake lever for the front wheel as far to the handlebar as it will go. <S> It should be at least a finger width from the bar at full compression. <S> 2) <S> While watching the brake pads, the part of the brake touching the wheel, let up slowly on the lever until the pads are almost touching the wheel but not quite. <S> 3) <S> The pads should both be clear of the wheel. <S> If one come clear first then either the brake needs adjusted or the wheel is not centered in the frame. <S> 4) <S> If both brakes clear the wheel at the same time then start turning the wheel slowly while continuing to hold the brake just clear of the wheel. <S> If there's a problem with the wheel one side or the other will hit a brake pad. <A> If it's a front wheel, and you don't have disk brakes, the first thing to try is this: <S> First, assure that the axle is all the way seated into the notches (dropouts) in the fork ends. <S> There should be no space between the axle and the end of the notch. <S> Do this on both sides and write it down. <S> The two distances should be nearly identical, within 1/16" or <S> 1mm. <S> Remove the wheel and insert it in the opposite direction (flipping left and right sides). <S> Measure the distances again. <S> Compare the first and second sets of measurements. <S> Note that you should compare the distance measured from the left fork tube in both cases and the distance measured from the right fork tube in both cases, vs comparing distance measured from the "same" side of the flipped wheel. <S> Again, the distances should be nearly identical. <S> (I don't suggest measuring from the brake blocks to the rim because the brakes tend to wobble a bit when you remove/replace the wheel.) <S> If any of the above measurements are off by more than about 1/8" or <S> 3mm then something is wrong. <S> (Perfectionists will argue for smaller tolerances, but I'm being practical.) <S> If the distances don't change when you flip the tire then the fork is probably bent. <S> If the distances do change then the wheel is not properly centered, and it probably needs to be "trued". <S> When you remove the quick-release "skewer" from the axle, the two ends should appear to be essentially identical. <S> If there is a nut or washer one end that is not on the other end then that may be your problem. <A> There are several meanings to "centered" and it's unclear which you mean: <S> Hub centered laterally between the forks: The quick releases and/or axle nuts do this automatically for you when you scrinch down on them. <S> See: What do the conical springs in quick releases actually do? <S> Hub centered in the drop-outs: this is the most important. <S> You want to make sure that the axle/quick-release fits as far into the drop-outs that it can go. <S> Cinch up the axle nuts or quick-releases part of the way, then grip the brake levers (or have a friend grip them) as you fully tighten the nuts/quick release. <S> That'll help ensure that the wheel is centered. <S> The above requires that your brakes are rim-brakes and are relatively centered. <S> If not, you can use the top of the fork or the chain stays as a way to visually ensure your wheel is centered. <S> That your wheel itself is in true (a perfect flat disc) and not wobbly. <S> See @CarpeTony's answer for that. <A> Shop wise, you could use one of two tools. <S> Trueing Stand <S> Dish Tool <S> The former will make sure the wheel is straight, and show you how much runnout there is. <S> It can also show you, <S> if correctly aligned, if the rim is centered over the center of the hub--this of course is a little different for the rear wheel where the hub is not necesssarily centered because of the cassette/freewheel. <S> The dish tool will show you if the rim is centered in relation to the outer faces of the axle nuts. <S> This is one of the surest way to know your wheel is centered. <S> Depending on the frame, you can do the same for the rear. <S> Check out Sheldon Brown's Tools for Wheel Building pages . <S> You'll find a lot of information there.
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If you do not have those tools, the brake pads can be used in a pinch to straighten a rim, and with at least the front wheel you can use your eye to see if they are centered in the fork. You can take it to a shop if the wheel needs to be trued. Use a ruler to measure the distance between the rim and the fork tube. However, do note that a possible reason for the off-center wheel is a wayward washer or nut on the axle.
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Best way to repair Neoprene gloves I have a pair of Castelli Neoprene gloves. They are just over a year old and one of them has a tear up one of the gauntlet sleeves and various smaller holes on the thumb, fingers and the palm. All of the tears / holes appear to be along seam lines, which appear to be stitched, but not quite. Would it be better to repair these tears by stitching, or gluing, I have seen some wetsuit glue that I assume can be used on Neoprene gloves <Q> I've got some wetsuit glue, and the join is really tough. <S> Just be sure to use it on clean, dry material,follow the instructions carefully <S> (it's a bit like patch cement), and allow it to set for plenty of time before use. <S> Sadly, you can probably reckon on a nearby failure before too long, as the stress is moved to a different place. <S> I recommend keeping the glue in the freezer, sealed in a bag -- it keeps longer that way, <S> so you should get another few uses out of it. <A> My favoured winter option for gloves is neoprene. <S> When they inevitably start to tear - my preference is to stitch neoprene. <S> The stitching doesn't look pretty but makes for a more durable repair. <S> I used a standard needle with doubled-up threading for a tougher stitch. <S> This link below might be helpful - and illustrates the wideness of the stitching used. <S> https://blog.cyberdaze.org/2011/01/02/sewing-neoprene/ <A> I've torn a bunch of Castelli stuff over the years. <S> I just started using this ShoeGoo product <S> and it's working well so far. <S> I've used it on a pair of gloves for a tear near the finger and it worked well. <S> Here is a a different glove, similar to the pair I used it on before. <S> I'll be repairing the finger soon. <S> And this is what it looks like dried, on a synthetic fiber of a torn winter boot, for some context. <S> It's somewhat like a pliable rubber cement. <S> It smells extremely strong and volatile, ventilation is necessary. <S> It dries within a couple hours. <S> I'd recommend it. <S> I got a large tube for about 5 dollars on Amazon. <S> I have no affiliation with the company. <S> Happy gluing.
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The best stitch I've found is to use is a wide stitch to pull the edges of the material together rather than small tight stitches.
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Rubber rings for attaching lights etc I have some lights and a cycle computer that attach using some sort of rubber or silicone bands (or O rings - don't know what they are called). I need some replacements, but I don't know what they are called! Best I can find on (say) Amazon are O rings that look the same but seem to be only for plumbing - not long term daily use on a bicycle. I need various sizes as I want to move stuff between bikes - which have differing tube/handle bar diameters. The technically right name - or a recommended supplier - would be most welcome! <Q> Have you thought about cutting an old inner tube across its length. <S> Various thicknesses of cut give more or less stretch. <S> Rubber versus latex, too many different size tubes to mention. <S> Cheap as chips and your LBS will have an endless supply. <A> Typing O ring bicycle into Google will give you plenty of options. <S> Depending where in the world <S> you are would depend on where you can get them from in the UK you can get them from Halfords or LBS. <S> Here are some from Cateye <S> Here are some from Garmin Amazon <S> have a variety of different bands <S> I doubt materially the ones from a hardware store would be much different but the cycling ones would be designed to go around the standard handlebar / stem diameters. <S> It might therefore be a bit hit and miss with some from a hardware store, i.e. too small, too big, not stretchy enough. <A> O-rings made of Silicon/Silicone are typically orange in color. <S> Are your o-rings orange? <S> Are these use in a outdoor application? <S> Reason I ask is typical o-ring <S> you will find in home depot or a plumbing supply house <S> are OK they will crack over time due to ozone exposure. <S> Neoprene or silicone o-rings work best for those types of applications. <S> You can purchase small quantities from the company here at https://www.alliedmetrics.com/seals/o-rings/
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They are usually referred to as O-Rings
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How to narrow down choices when finding a new bike? I am about to buy a new bike. Not a second hand one; a brand new. I am looking at specifications and webshop prices to get an idea about what should and could buy, but the spectrum is too wide to check every single one in a shop. I noticed, that most brands have models with different components, and the maxed-out version is 3-4 times more expensive than the cheapest one. There are minimal differences in function, but not on the price tag. Like this cross bike: Kross Evado 1.0-7.0 . Local brands tend to be cheaper, but they do not have high-end machines on their palette, so I am a little bit concerned about the quality. Most LBS here sell 2-3 brands only, so it's really hard to do a side-by-side comparison in real life, and I am not too familiar with component levels. What is a good heuristic to find the best value for my money? What to look for when comparing two bikes by their specification only? (To be more specific: I am currently looking at hardtail MTB's and cross (hybrid?) bikes, mostly from the lower end. I think I know my preferences fairly well, but I've never had a bike with discs or suspension and do not know what to look for.) <Q> As someone who has recently done the same thing, I'll think I can help with this. <S> The biggest trap I fell into was overthinking it. <S> Some of this might sound a little backwards <S> but it's my thinking at least. <S> As a starting point, you need to work out your budget. <S> No point considering anything that's outside that. <S> Sounds like <S> and not just flood you with marketing jargon. <S> Find out what sort of follow up service etc they have. <S> As a starter, you're probably going to need some help with setup & maintaining the bike so pick one who will. <S> After that, take a couple of options from that store in your budget for a ride, see what you like. <S> Then buy the bike. <A> Adding to @hursey's excellent points, you want to try the style of bike before committing to a new one. <S> Personally I did a couple hundred km on a borrowed road bike, and then bought a slightly newer used road bike then did 7000km on it. <S> Still saving for a new one, but I have decided that a low-low climbing gear is important to me, which leads to a triple or a compact chainring+mountain-sized rear cassette. <S> Purpose is important too. <S> The high-end bikes are sold for a lot more than less well-known brands. <S> The cost of the name "cannondale" or "trek" or "madone" or "cervelo" can price their product higher than a "giant" or a "raleigh" for example. <S> A bike that does its job and gets used, is a better bike than a garage-princess. <A> That first bike purchase can be a nightmare <S> so my advice is set a purpose for what you will use the bike for the most and then set a budget. <S> That should narrow things down considerably. <S> Go to a few bike shops and ask for their advice. <S> There is nothing wrong with asking them for advice even if they only sell higher end stuff. <S> Chances are they will have lower end stuff and clearance stock that may be last 2-3 years old but still new. <S> It's the advice you need and sometimes it's worth paying a little extra for that at the LBS. <S> You will find most shops have a lot of enthusiastis working in them and they will often give you great advice. <S> They will also give you advice on bike sizes. <S> From the kross bikes you mentioned, there's not a great deal of difference between them and I <S> honestly suspect they all ride much the same. <S> Some have disc brakes and some have v brakes. <S> Nothing wrong with cheaper v brakes in my opinion. <S> Usually higher spec components will weigh a little less and be built and manufactured to higher tolerances <S> but you probably wouldn't notice much difference at this level. <S> soon you'll get a feel for what you want. <S> Also ask the guys or girls in the LBS what they ride and why. <S> You may be surprised to hear they own 3-4 bikes and have a special commute bike. <S> Don't worry too much about bike weight. <S> It's doesn't make too much difference unless you are racing for medals and even then it really is negligible. <S> Nothing wrong buying second hand as the resale value will be close to what you paid <S> but you always will run the risk of something going wrong as you will never be 100 % on the history regardless of what the owner tells you. <S> If you want to buy second hand then go check it out with a bike friend that knows what they are talking about, but even then they might not spot potential problems in a bike. <S> If you don't have such friends then I suggest you stick to a friendly LBS and save yourself a potential $$$$ black hole and headaches if things go wrong.
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you already have your intended use sorted, but that's a pretty big thing to nail downNext thing I would suggest is pick an pick a bike shop that seems to know what they are talking about Try to borrow a few bikes from friends and see how you like or dis like them and If you want to commute (and lock it outside) then a flash bike is probably a bad idea.
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Big tires are rubbing in certain conditions so how can I fix my rear wheel play issues? I have a 2007 Tarmac Expert Double with a Mavic Kysrium Equipe rim spoked to a Mavic Kysrium Equipe, 24 hole, Mavic QR rear hub. I recently upgraded to 28mm tires from 25mm and I had the rear wheel recently trued so rolls smoothly and clears all the stays. However, when I climb (out of seat) or make sharp turns, the tire rubs on the sides of the seat stay. When I press on my rear wheel to the left or right, it gives enough to rub against the brake pad as well as the sides of the seat stay. If I loosen the brakes the tire rubs a bit more on the right side than the left. Gooling around shows that my hub might be going bad given that I have put about 5-7k miles on the bike. Is this repairable? Does it make sense to buy a new wheel? Can I just replace the hub with a PowerTap and new spokes? How dangerous is it to ride with so much play with the wheel. <Q> Note that actual measured with depends on many factors including: internal rim width, tire construction, tire profile, tire age and wear, inflation pressure. <S> As such, one combination of tires and wheels can work while another may fail if you have tight clearances. <S> It is also impossible to build a bicycle and wheel set without flex. <S> As such, there needs to be a minimum safe tire clearance. <S> Just because the wheel spins freely in the stand does not mean there will be appropriate clearance for actually riding the bike, especially for heavier/stronger riders. <S> I would suggest assessing how much clearance is available with 25 mm tires (perhaps(typical max clearance on many road bikes). <S> If the clearance is already tight (e.g., less than 1 cm) then going up to 28 could be a stretch. <S> The more recent version of the tarmac (e.g., disc version) can clear 28 mm, but I doubt older rim brake versions can. <S> It is best to ask the Specialized Help Desk to get an official answer. <S> Question of Hub Play <S> All wheels, will have some side-to-side flex <S> so it is unclear whether or not there is a problem with the hub. <S> Typically, if the bearings have developed play the wheel moves side-to-side with a very light touch, if more force is required it is likely wheel flex. <S> 5-7000 miles is not a lot of mileage, but this also depends on the conditions they were ridden under. <A> The actual reason for rub is that wheels are not infinitely stiff, but flex a bit laterally when climbing out of saddle or cornering. <S> This is normal and not dangerous but becomes more apparent when you have tires that only barely clear the frame when the wheel is entirely straight. <S> The sad truth is that many road bikes don't have room for 28mm tires, and yours seems to be one of them. <S> If your hub had play in the bearings, you could feel it by just wiggling the wheels sideways with your hands, no need to push with significant force. <A> I have a cheap 20" folding bike that would give wheel rub after a while. <S> I found out that the serrated nut surface under the QR was polished smooth. <S> So under load from the chain, the axle pulled forward. <S> This took over an hour of filing due to the hardened steel of the QR. <S> This will only help if its your wheel axle moving relative to the frame. <S> If its flex then this won't help. <A> 28mm are too big for the bike. <S> It's as simple as that. <S> You will always get some flex in the wheels and frame as you pedal More power and lean angles and rider weight = more flex. <S> Just because the tyre clears the frame by a 1 or 2 mm doesn't mean it will clear under load. <S> I suggest you go back to 25mm tyres and save up for a bike that is designed for 28mm if you really want to run them.
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Unfortunately 28mm nominal tire width can be too larger for many modern road bikes. My fix was to use a triangular rats-tail file and recut deeper grooves into the QR's serrated surface, leaving a more grippy surface to bite into the dropouts.
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Cold causing squeak in disc brake system? I took my bike in recently for the usual periodic overhaul. One set of brake pads was replaced, brake cables (relatively new) were lubed, all that good stuff. Since then, both front and back brakes (so, one with brand-new pads, one with older) have developed a periodic once-a-pedal-cycle squeak... but only when it's cold out (roughly, freezing or under). I took the bike inside today, and it didn't squeak at all on the start of my ride afterwards, but was just starting to squeak again as I got home. On the back brake (worse squeaker, new pads), I can stop the squeak while riding if I squeeze the brake just a tiny bit -- not quite enough to engage it. Bike has non-hydraulic disc brakes, carbon drive with Alfine IGH. Brake effectiveness is fine. Ideas for what's causing this and how I can make it stop? It's maddening. Similar but not identical: How do I get rid of the noise on my Hayes Stroker Trail brakes <Q> From my experience, different brakes work in different condition. <S> Some might scream like mad in certain weather. <S> My brakes scream when its raining while my friends bike's brakes scream everyday everytime. <S> If this is not the case with your brakes, give it some time to break in or check if there is any oil substance on the contact surface. <S> Hope it helps ! <A> It is likely the temperature change combined with imperfections in your rotor. <S> No rotor is perfectly straight, all will have a slight deviation from centre. <S> The colder weather can make metal contract, which can exacerbate any imperfections, and could cause the rotor to start interacting with the brake pad as you ride. <S> Since then, both front and back brakes (so, one with brand-new pads, one with older) have developed a periodic once-a-pedal-cycle squeak <S> The "once-a-pedal-cycle" is consistent with a single on/off interaction. <S> On the back brake (worse squeaker, new pads), I can stop the squeak while riding if I squeeze the brake just a tiny bit -- not quite enough to engage it. <S> By applying the brake the brake pad likely starts interact with more of the rotor surface <S> so it's less of an on/off interaction and the noise subsides. <S> Ideas for what's causing this <S> and how I can make it stop? <S> It's maddening. <S> The squeak can often resolve on its own as the brake pad wears more thereby increasing the distance between the pad and the rotor. <S> You can try to get the same result by adjusting the brake caliper, either by backing off the pad with the pad adjuster or potential he re-centering the caliper so that there is more space. <S> I will typically inspect the bike in the stand and see which side of the caliper and rotor will hit and make adjustments accordingly. <S> If the rotor is significantly out of true <S> it can be realigned there's a special tool for that <S> but you can also use a large Crescent wrench. <S> This can take some practice because it is easy to make the problem worse than rather than better. <A> I had an issue with with my front brake. <S> It wasn't so much a squeak but a click once per rotation. <S> I tightened my thru axle and it went away. <S> Could be that you aren't quite seated in the drop outs. <S> It could be that your disc is ever do slightly warped. <S> It could be a little contaminant on the discs (a drop of grease). <S> And, it's possible that this will disappear after a few good rides.
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The squeak can come from an on/off interaction that can happen if only one part of the rotor touches the pad.
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Rock Shox Recon does not "completely" lock I recently bought the 29er CUBE ACID 2017 equipped with a RockShox Rrecon front fork (Silver TK AIR PopLock 100mm). I have noticed that even when the suspension is locked, there is still a movement (compression) of the stanchions of about 20mm. It is not completely rigid, not locked, even though the knob and the crown of the fork is in the LOCK position. Is it supposed to work like this (as the shop I bought the bike from tells me) or is it somehow faulty? I am new with bicycles and I would appreciate your help! <Q> RockShox FAQ FRONT SUSPENSION Remotes/Lock Outs: <S> Why Isn’t The Lockout Function <S> Completely Locked, <S> Instead, There’s <S> A Bit Of Travel? <S> Please know the lockout setting on most RockShox forks is not a “hard lockout”- meaning you will have about an inch of movement when the fork is the locked mode. <S> We call this feature Small Bump Compliance, and the intention is that the wheel will continue to track over ground with control, even in the locked setting. <A> Oil damped forks lock out by closing a valve and stopping the flow of oil through the damper. <S> But I can't find this anywhere in the manuals for your forks. <S> It is possible that it's factory set, how much force are you using to get the fork to move the 20mm you mentioned? <S> There is also a blow off valve for big hits, you could be activating that if you're jumping on it. <S> If you can pedal standing up without it bobbing around <S> excessively then the lockout is working as expected, if not it could mean an oil leak or that the forks came under filled. <A> The loose range of 20 mm <S> i saw it also in a (2015) <S> 3 years old Rockshox with remote control. <S> in a new Rockshox Fork with not remote its a lot better, the range is still there but not that loose(here at home). <S> Loose forks are a wasting energy device on uphill. <S> I have a Marzzochi bomber without this "tracking feature" cos it does lock pretty well, also the Fork on my Stumpy 2011 used to lock for years very good. <S> My gravel with rigid Fork do not miss this "small bump compliance". <S> How many users do speedy uphill on rocky surface? <S> if i need it i just unlock the fork and thats it. <S> i smell a rat on that lock failure.
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The amount of lockout is usually adjustable by changing just how closed this valve is.
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MTB Sizing. Saddle at the very bottom to reach pedals perfectly. Go one size smaller? So im buying my first MTB. Its a Scott Scale 930. With the size M i get the perfect reach to the pedal with my heel. But only when the saddle is set to the very lowest/bottom. Should i get a size S instead? My height is 171 cm. Thnx <Q> If you have to put the saddle all the way down, the frame is too small large. <S> You need to have a comfortable clearance between the top tube and your crotch when your feet are flat on the ground - especially on an off-road bike, since you'll often have to dismount in a hurry. <S> There are other aspects to getting a proper fit, but this is something you can't get around. <S> They do make them in small sizes, but in order to get a smaller rider into a reasonable riding position between those two big wheels, they have to make some compromises with the geometry. <S> You'd be better off with 26" or 27.5" wheels. <A> I agree with some other comments in that I think you should go for a small. <S> You can change a lot on a bike and unless you go down the custom frame route, you will need to mod things to achieve the perfect position. <S> The saddle to pedal/Bottom bracket interface is just the start. <S> Get that wrong and you are floating down a creek without a paddle. <S> Hope it helps some. <A> On that style of bike saddle in the lowest position is OK. <S> On the size cart you are right in between. <S> Ask the shop. <S> Hopefully they will let you ride both.
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Try the small and feel the difference when the saddle is set right in relation to the pedals. Also, if you're on the short end of things, I wouldn't recommend a 29er.
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Getting the right seat post I'm currently rebuilding an old steel frame. After measuring it I was sure it'd take a 27.2mm seat post (see picture) so that's what i bought. Sadly it doesn't fit (despite some "encouragement" with a mallet). So I'm now in the position of needing to buy another. Anyone got any suggestions on what size I should go for. You can see from the picture how it's measuring and I don't want to go wrong again..... <Q> Usually at the "Cut out" in the top of the seat tube, they measure a little bigger than the actual size of the post. <S> If I had to guess, it's probably a 27.0 or 26.8 <S> just judging by your measurement. <A> Trial and error was the eventual solution. <S> It took a 26mm post in the end so the measurement at the clamp was WAAAYYY off! <A> The seat clamp is stretched a little so your measurement is off. <S> You can use a vernier caliper to measure a bit further down inside the seat post. <S> Definitely a tool to buy if you can. <S> Even cheap plastic ones are handy. <S> Another rough estimate is to use a flexible tape measure around the seat tube, to get the outside circumference. <S> Then divide that measure by Pi to get the diameter. <S> Then subtract 2 <S> x the wall thickness (which looks like about 1.2mm) <S> I have a bunch of old short seat posts to help figure out how big a seat tube is inside.
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I'd say your best bet is to try several sizes at your Local Bike Shop, there even used to be a tool to measure it, but it's rather hard to find these days.
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Alternatives to Long Drop Calipers Anyone have a clue what type of brake I can fit to this front fork? The reach to a 700C wheel would need to be 80MM (do you even get calipers this long?) and the only brazing on the fork is this weird looking bottle opener thing so no option for canti's etc........stumped!! <Q> Published reach for the 1999 is 74-95mm and and 86mm for the Bulldog. <S> Some of these brakes are pretty respectable in terms of power/performance, and a lot are garbage. <S> Watch out for weird oversize pivot bolts on some of them. <S> Other solutions where the reach should be good but that probably won't work very well with a narrow road rim: Odyssey Pitbull and Pitbull 2 roller-cam brakes, or a 990/u-brake adapter and a standard modern BMX u-brake. <S> Edit: Some of the longest and fanciest of the fancy rando long-reach centerpulls may also work, barely. <S> Compass lists their brake as 65-80mm. <S> However, if it did reach, it would probably be the best brake you could get on there. <A> They can be bought but are also commonly made at home for situations like this. <S> Here is a couple of images of different styles both store bought and custom made. <S> Home made pipe style Old school campy-ish type <S> And here is one installed, having two secure point is essential thouhg as if you have a long extension and only one bolt or mounting point you could get flex and low brake performance. <S> As you can see he has one through the fork and the lower mounting bolt goes beneath to a similar plate on the other side. <A> The brazing appears to be for a bottle / friction dynamo. <S> The giveaway is that it's only on the right side. <S> Which means this is a bike from Japan or another left drive country. <S> Are you sure you have the right size wheels (or fork)? <S> Or that the fork is for a 27" or larger. <S> You specifically asked for alternatives to long reach calipers <S> so I won't go into detail, but they are available (I use a tektro r559 <S> but those only go to 73mm) <S> but you might need to find older Weinmans. <S> My best suggestion that if you don't want to use long reach calipers, replace your wheel set with something bigger like a 27" or 28" (635).
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A BMX caliper such as an Odyssey 1999, Dia-Compe Bulldog, ACS Boa, or any number of others would work. One other idea in addition to the other perfectly good answers is utilizing a drop bolt. My guess is that the bike was originally 27" but someone replaced with a 700c which is slightly smaller.
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What position of saddle is best? Almost all cyclists who ride road bikes set the seat so high, and when they're in the drops their body can be almost parallel with the road, reducing air resistance. However,their legs can't reach the road from the saddle, and their head is pushed down and it could be dangerous in some situations. With a low saddle position, I feel comfortable and can easily reach the road from the saddle, and my head is upright. When I want to be more aerodynamic, I can drop my upper body and push my rear behind the seat. So why don't cyclists use a low position seat? <Q> Road cycling position is generally a performance position (although not always) and can be viewed as a compromise between three components: Power - different positions will allow you to output differing levels of power depending on your biomechanics. <S> Aerodynamics - some body positions reduce your power, but can reduce drag even more therefore allowing for higher speeds. <S> Comfort <S> - The position needs to be sustainable for long periods of time. <S> Depending on your goals you tend to weigh one category more heavily. <S> For example, endurance riding tends to be more upright which prioritized (3) at the cost of (2). <S> Saddle height tends to have the biggest impact on (1). <S> Too low <S> and you do not use all of the power stroke of the quadricepts, too high and you start leaving the power stroke and can over extend your hip and knee. <S> The most powerful and efficient saddle height leaves a small bend in the knee at the end of the pedal stroke. <S> This lets you use your quadriceps to the end of their power stroke without over extending. <S> You will not be able to reach the ground easily while remaining on the saddle. <S> Therefore to answer your question: When I want to be more aerodynamic, I can drop my upper body and push my rear behind the seat. <S> So why don't cyclists use a low position seat? <S> You may be able to change body position to maximize aerodynamics (2) but you are still sacrificing power (1) and will be going slower than someone who first maximizes power (1) then gets as aerodynamic as possible. <S> Finally, a low saddle position can affect hip flexion (making your hips and knees flex more) which can be further affected when getting the body into a lower position, therefore you could also be affecting comfort (3) which makes the position unsustainable in the long run. <A> You usually spend much more time cycling along the road than stationary on your bike with your feet on the ground. <S> Given that, it makes sense to sit in a position that makes cycling work better, as long as it doesn't make it too difficult to stop. <S> The standard recommendation for saddle height is that your leg should be almost straight with your heel on the pedal in its lowest position. <S> That way, when you pedal with the balls of your feet, your leg is slightly bent at the bottom of each stroke. <S> This is the most efficient way to pedal; pedaling with a bigger bend to your knee <S> means you need to exert more force with your butt muscles, and transmit more force through your knees. <S> That requires more effort and can cause injuries. <S> It makes going up hills much harder. <S> With your saddle at the right height, you should still be able to reach the ground with the toes of either foot, but probably not both at the same time. <S> You might need to lean the bike over slightly, but probably not much. <S> That's all you need to be stable when you stop. <S> If you're going to be stopped for a longer time you can always get off the saddle and stand in front of it, straddling the crossbar, with one foot flat on the ground and the other on the pedal. <S> Note that you don't need to be super-aero just because your saddle's at the correct height. <S> You can always raise your handlebars so you can cycle more comfortably. <A> First, because in your position it takes effort to pedal standing up instead of sitting, and that effort is better spent in moving the bike forward. <S> Maintaining one's weight at back takes more effort than the usual standing pedaling position. <S> Second, because there is no need to reach the ground with both feet while riding. <S> When stopped, it is easy to get out of saddle, tilt the bike enough to reach the ground or just reach the ground with one's toes. <S> Most people have moving joints in their necks and can turn their heads so that they can see. <A> The only time I've felt the need to take saddle-to-ground distance into account is riding with a high weight (toddler seat), when tilting the bike so you can reach the ground doesn't really work. <S> Even then it's toes only on the ground or stand over the top tube. <S> The saddle is only about 1cm or 1/2" lower than for distance in that case. <S> None of that applies if you're racing. <S> On closed roads in a peloton you don't have to pay attention to the same things as normal riding. <S> And you're so close to the other bikes <S> you don't have good visibility anyway. <S> So the head down isn't too bad either. <S> Besides, with practice you can ride for hours with your head tipped back. <S> And at race speeds and conditions you're unlikely to have to put your foot down in a hurry - if it's not a planned stop it's likely to be a crash whatever your riding position.
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If you find that you can't comfortably reach the ground with the saddle at the optimum height for pedaling, you can always lower it a little.
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Bicycle computers with nonvolatile memory The one thing that keeps me from pulling the trigger on some bike computer is the lack of information about the odometer, the lifetime mileage on the bicycle. When you change the battery in your car, your electronic dash odometer doesn't go to zero. It would be stupid. When my Samsung Note 4 battery dies right in the middle of something, I remove and replace with my hot spare and it remembers right where it left off. I've been told not all bike computers are nonvolatile like this. Which cycle computers are able to remember information when the battery is changed? Or better yet, is there someplace in the spec sheet or other way to find out if it has non-volatile memory without buying it? <Q> I am also searching for a computer with non-volatile memory. <S> According to Sigma the computers BC 5.16 <S> BC 7.16 BC 7.16 ATS BC 9.16 <S> BC 9.16 ATS PURE 1 ( <S> according to the reply from Sigma customer service) <S> do not save your values after a battery change <S> (however, you can manually set the odometer). <S> And following Sigma computers retain data : <S> BC 14.16 BC 16.16 BC 14.16 STS BC 16.16 STS BC 23.16 STS <S> But following VDO models have non-volatile memory : <S> M1.1 <S> WR/WL M2.1 WR/WL M3.1 WR/WL M4.1 WR/WL M5 <S> M6.1 M7 GPS <S> All settings must be re-entered <S> for bike computers Prophete 0511, 0512, 0531 after the batteries have been inserted. <A> Several Sigma bike computers with model numbers that start with BC16 have persistent memory for wheel size and odometer. <S> I have been personally using these because they are effortless way of keeping track of totals and do not lose count when battery runs out, very accurate when calibrated and work where GPS does not. <A> I always log my rides on Strava. <S> By spending a couple minutes to set up any bike I own, they show up in a dropdown list at the end of each ride. <S> Yes - I have one bike that is still in single digits. <S> "Company bike" refers to two owned by my workplace, and "Someone else's bike" is a placeholder for if I ride another bike. <S> I don't record the second bike if I'm ghost riding two.
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According to VDO M Zero loses memory after battery change.
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What type of grease to prevent seat post sticking? What type of grease should I buy specifically to prevent the seat post from getting stuck in the seat tube? I believe its aluminum. Is there all-purpose grease that I can use for other parts of the bike? This is an older, inexpensive bike that I need to last for another few years. <Q> I use basic thick grease from an auto parts store. <S> The can says multi-purpose waterproof grease. <S> It's thick like a cream, or butter and dirt cheap. <S> You only need a small amount. <A> Carbon paste (AKA Carbon Prep) would be better than grease. <S> Its designed to provide grip so carbon components don't have to be over tightened, and is designed to work with metal on carbon and protect against galvanic corrosion. <S> Exactly what is needed to stop a metal seat post sticking in metal frame. <S> Another thing that will prevent seizing is regular (monthly or 6 monthly depending on riding conditions) loosen the seat, give it a twist and tighten it up. <A> The only time that there's really only one right answer is if the frame and seatpost are dissimilar metals (aluminum/steel, titanium/aluminum, titanium/steel). <S> In this scenario, you should ABSOLUTELY use an anti-seize compound. <S> Something like Park's ASC-1 is perfect for this. <S> The anti-seize compound has zinc in it, which acts as a sacrificial metal to prevent the frame and seatpost from corroding and bonding to each other. <S> For other materials, you can still use anti-sieze compound, but you don't need to. <A> Just get the Park Tool grease that virtually every bike shop carries. <A> You can use any grease you want. <S> Bike grease, automotive axle grease, organic extra-virgin coconut oil, they'll all work for this task. <S> But if you plan to do any further maintenance on your bike (and you should), then buy some bicycle-specific grease, because you'll need it later.
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A thin layer of grease will work in most cases. In the event that you're having problems with a seatpost slipping even when clamped, then go with an anti-slip compound, like Park's SAC-2.
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answers for why the bike wobbles back and forth when standing on the pedals and working it So I read all these answers about the bike moving underneath the rider back and forth when standing on the pedals. So how much is actually effective and how much is for "show" (looks cool) I have a friend that ocassionally uses my bike and throws it violently back and forth when getting on the pedals. I don't think he is strong enough to really radically make the bike do this but after the rides the back wheel becomes untrue and the brakes rub because the wheel is that much out of line. I have to take it for the wheel to be trued. What advice should I give him about properly riding on the pedals so that I don't have to have the wheel trued everytime?I am fairly powerful on the pedals but I don't have that much movement. <Q> The way he's riding is bad because it damages your bike. <S> That in itself ought to be enough reason to stop. <S> I suspect that if your friend was riding his own bike, he'd be less cavalier about his treatment of it. <S> I'd be inclined to say one of the following things to him: <S> "Please return my bike in the condition it was in when I lent it to you; either don't damage it, or get it properly repaired before you give it back", or " <S> You're not borrowing my bike any more" <S> Note that different types of bike are designed for different purposes. <S> You've tagged this as "road"; we generally want road bikes to move forward efficiently, but BMX riding (for example) is very different. <S> It sounds a bit like your friend isn't used to this kind of distinction. <A> I learned the hard way that hard pedaling can put my rear wheel out of true if some or all of the spokes are too loose to begin with. <S> At one point I actually thought someone was vandalizing my wheel and loosening the spokes by hand. <S> I finally figured it out though, tightened up all the spokes properly and evenly: <S> end of problem. <A> The main reason for throwing bike around when sprinting is to reduce the leverage from pedals. <S> The pedals are left and right from the contact point between tires and ground, and when standing up one needs to compensate the twisting force from pedaling by twisting the handlebars the opposite way. <S> This wastes strength, but the force can be reduced by moving the pedal closer to contact line by tilting the bike. <S> Properly built road bikes should survive it, and are often ridden like it .
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You could point out that all the effort spent pushing the bike from side to side is wasted; he could use he energy more effectively to push the bike forwards using the pedals.
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How has hardtail MTB geometry changed in the past 10 years? So I have been sitting on my 2005 Specialized Rockhopper because it is such a good fit (23" bike I'm 6'6") however I probably haven't ridden it in 5 years as it needs a new front fork. I'm just wondering, is it worth keeping and replacing the fork or will I get left in the dust every ride or laughed out of town? <Q> I'm not sure about the geometry, I doubt that it's changed much. <S> But I suspect that the question you really care about is in your last sentence. <S> You've got a perfectly good bike, other than the busted fork, and it fits you. <S> A newer bike will perform better, but it won't be a huge difference. <S> If you haven't ridden off-road in 5 years, your atrophied skills will be holding you back way more than your equipment. <S> If you want to buy a new bike, and you have the cash, then by all means do it. <S> But don't let them con you into believing that everything becomes obsolete when the new model comes out. <A> With your height, you would get a much better ride out of a bike with 29" wheels: the bigger wheels will match your 23" frame much better. <A> These are the frame changes that I have seen in the last 5 years: New wheel sizes including 29, 27.5 and 27.5+ Slacker headtube angles Shorter chainstays Better materials. <S> My assumption is that probably Aluminum has had improvements too. <S> So I have been sitting on my 2005 Specialized Rockhopper because it is such a good fit (23" bike I'm <S> 6'6 <S> ") however I probably haven't ridden it in 5 years as it needs a new front fork. <S> I'm just wondering, is it worth keeping and replacing the fork or will I get left in the dust every ride or laughed out of town? <S> I think that you could make an argument that buying a new bike is a better idea when we expand the scope of your question to include the entire bike. <S> What kind of condition is the rest of the bike in? <S> Are there other things that you may need to or want to repair? <S> or modify? <S> I'd say something like 25-75% of the bikes retail price. <A> I would keep it. <S> Ask your LBS if they have a replacement fork or you might be able to find one on eBay. <S> I just bought a full suspension bike after riding un-suspended and a front suspension mountain bike since 1987. <S> Here are my observations: <S> My full suspension bike is heavy. <S> It's harder to climb hills with full sus because of the extra weight. <S> My full sus bike isn't as maneuverable. <S> I don't think disc brakes work any better than V-brakes, plus V-brakes are easy to adjust to your preferences, and they're a lot lighter <S> A hard tail accelerates a lot faster. <S> Advantages of full sus: <S> You don't get as beat up on the rough stuff. <S> Don't feel like I'm about to be launched over the handlebars on steep downhills. <S> Brakes probably work better in sloppy conditions <S> but I haven't tested that out yet. <S> I was thinking about selling my old hardtail <S> but I've decided to keep it because it's still a sweet ride on gravel trails, single track, and long climbs. <S> I threw a dropper post on it <S> so I feel more secure and less likely to launch going downhill. <S> If you love your Rockhopper keep it - you won't get much for it if you sell it.
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So if you need to change anything else and the fork you should get a new bike (and maybe a rigid fork to turn this into a sweet commuter). The biggest change in geometry has been the widespread adoption of 29" and 27.5" wheels. Carbon frames have advanced significantly in the last 10 years. Purchasing a new fork is shockingly expensive.
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Identify this Gitane road bike I yesterday bought this bike from Offer up for $100 and want to know more about the bicycle. Can someone please help me get the model, type and year of this bicycle from the picture below. <Q> I suspect it's a 1984 Gran Tour ( from page 5 of the french catalogue ) as this style of logo appears to have only been used for the early 80s <S> and this model is the only model that has the bar end shifters/is advertised in the same colour. <A> It is a Gitane touring bicycle. <S> By searching you should be able to match a year. <S> Probably from the 90's as threadless stems came on about 2000. <S> If is rolls $100 is a good price. <A> Yes this is the Gran Tour; I have an unalatered version. <S> Originals had hand brake cables going out the top of the levers, but the rubber perished; looks like this is why these have been replaced. <S> Obviously wheels are not original either. <S> Can't really tell from the photo, but it doesn't look like it has the stronglight crankset. <S> No idea why someone would change it over, would be a lot of cost/work.
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As @Paparazzi said it appears to be a Gitane bike, from looking through the product catalogues on the Gitane USA site
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How to cross major road 3 way intersection I'm curious about the best way to get across this intersection. I will be traveling north (top of the picture is north), and want to turn left at this light. Path indicated by red arrows. As can be seen there is a bike lane on the far right. However since there is no road on that side there is not a light to allow traffic from the west. I'm not sure which stage of the stoplight cycle would be best to attempt this. The road has a speed limit of 50 mph and is fairly busy so getting to the turn lane could prove difficult. I was wondering if any of you more seasoned riders could recommend any other course. <Q> Options in order of preference: <S> Another route. <S> Stop on the south side, wait for straight though (north/south) traffic to stop, choose your time to cross contending only with single right turn lane out of PonyExpress Parkway. <S> (Turning traffic is slower, minimizes damage if you get hit). <S> If you don't make it all the way across before lights change, you are in the left turn lane for the next phase. <S> problem with this move is at 50MPH, if it goes wrong, it goes badly wrong. <S> Also Lobby local authority to make it safer. <S> They have gone to expense installing cycle lanes, so they should at least give you a fair hearing. <A> I would consider moving forward at the intersection, then find an easier way to turn left and, when again at the intersection, right. <A> I'd either ride on the road (rather than the bike path), or I'd get off the bike and walk it across. <S> 50 mph is serious injury speed if you get hit.
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Be assertive and use the left turn lane but only if its a cycling friendly town.
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Learning to listen to my body and stop over-exercise I have the tendency to push myself too much, resulting in exhaustion and 4+ days of required rest and more than a week before I can train normally again. Two weeks ago, I went on a 35 mile ride which includes several steep hills (7-15%) and I just wore myself out too much. I just can't keep cool and cycle slowly- a reason why I have never ridden more than 40mi. I don't know when I am doing too much. Or rather, I ignore my HR meter and think "just this bit and then I will slow down". In the wake of that, I discovered spinning as a great way to constantly monitor my HR and not push myself too much. I thought I could maybe use spinning as a way to learn to listen to my body? Every summer, I partake in a TT race. I would love to finally earn some silverware. The TT is short (13.3mi) and I think it doesn't take much for me to improve. But I just can't improve, because I always over-do it. Is there something that I can do? I have dropped most of my cycle workouts for spinning in the past month because I recover much better. But I want to get back on the road, especially with the weather improving. I also do weight-lifting, which is easier to do because if it's too heavy, it's too heavy. But with cycling, I can always tap into a reserve. Clear question: What excercises are there (aside from resorting to spinning) to stop over-exercise during a bike ride? How can I improve my awareness? <Q> Learning to listen to your body equates to developing discipline in your training. <S> Changing the type of exercise can help you give specific muscle groups rest <S> but you can still exercising without the discipline to meter your effort and therefore not actually rest. <S> The aim of the plan is to allot time to hammer your body with space to let your body recover. <S> That also means you choose your exercises and routes <S> appropriately - no hills on easy days. <S> Keep track of what you do, be diligent to stick to what you write down. <S> If something isn't working, change your written plan, but follow your plan. <S> DISCLAIMER: <S> Consult a doctor regarding your efforts, 4 days of forced recovery means you aren't recovering <S> and you risk severe injury and burnout. <S> Discipline is an additional "muscle" that you will need to exercise, strengthen and push to its limit. <S> The harder you work on your discipline <S> the more consistent you will ride, the better you will recover and the more you'll know about what your body can handle. <S> Developing a plan and learning to meter your effort will pay dividends for you TT as well. <S> No amount of strength will help you in your race if you blow your energy within 1 mile and struggle the last 12.3 miles. <S> Best of luck. <A> I have a habit of riding harder when I'm by myself. <S> Consider trying out a group ride. <S> Try to pick a group where you will be in the top half. <S> This might put a bit of a brake on you and give you a chance to build better habits you can use on solo rides. <A> You don't say how old you are but from your description, my guess is the problem may be dehydration which seems to affect us older guys more than younger ones. <S> I experience this if I am not careful. <S> It is a sinister problem that creeps up on you and before you know it, it is too late. <S> S/S include muscle weakness, lack of energy, feeling very tired, mental confusion and other symptoms. <S> It does take a period of time to recover but not 4 days. <S> I live in Arizona and take both water and an electrolyte drink on my rides, even in the cooler weather. <A> Well, I think the obvious answer is listen to your body! <S> However, you can start checking your HR-Monitor or setting Zone-Alarms on it. <S> Try to determine your heartrate zones for your workout. <S> Then program them into your HR-Monitor and then stay in that zone. <S> Personally, I would recomend doing some base training ie riding at a low intensity for a longer time. <S> Something like riding for 60-90 minutes at 60-75% of your maximal heart rate. <A> I decided to add an answer based on my results after posting this question. <S> Upon reading the responses, I consulted my GP to discuss my symptoms. <S> She agreed that given my overall health, a one-off strenuous exercise should not result in exhaustion at this level. <S> She suggested a Vitamin D deficiency. <S> Living in the UK this is common, but during the winter (early sunsets, less sun), Vitamin D levels are even lower and starting workouts again early in the year can then be too much. <S> Lack of Vitamin D can explain the symptoms. <S> I have since been taking supplements and have repeated the exercise after not working out for 2 weeks prior- with no problems. <S> Normal fatigue as expected but no more symptoms. <S> So for future readers of this question, consider that you may not be over-exercising at all and speaking to your physician would be my advice from now on.
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Try not to push your self to the limit during the workout. My suggestion is to write out your exercise plan and journal how you do. If I ride with a group or even with one other person I'm less likely to overdo it. I also hydrate before a ride.
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How close to the kerb should I cycle? I'm new here, and also pretty new to cycling as my main form of travel. Note that I'm from the UK, so we drive on the left. I always ride on the lane closest to the kerb. On one of my journeys I have to go over a dual carriageway, and I noticed that quite a lot of cars overtake me too close for my comfort (like if I deviated a bit to the right, they would hit me). I also noticed that it gets worse if I'm closer to the edge of the road. Because cars try to overtake me in the same lane, rather than waiting for the lane to the right of them to be empty so that they can overtake properly. If instead I am far enough into the lane that there isn't enough room for their car to overtake me on that lane, then these 'close overtakes' occur less frequently. I don't want to be inconsiderate to drivers by hogging the road and preventing them from overtaking me, but I also don't want to jeopardise my safety by incentivising dangerous overtaking. Is there a guideline on this? <Q> You are already riding considerately by the sounds of it which is great.. <S> I can only advise though on what I used to do. <S> The Highway Code is somewhat vague regarding exact rule for cyclists.. <S> However you ARE entitled to be on the road and drivers ARE obliged to give you plenty of room when overtaking you. <S> As a racing cyclist (a few years ago now) I would always ride about 2 feet away from the curb, especially on roads that were wide enough for it not to be a problem. <S> This would allow me to clear the drain covers and any recesses they were in, whilst also avoiding the stones & debris which is often laying at the roadside.. <S> I don't think in all my years of road training that I ever had a real problem with drivers.. <S> Well apart from the selfish few that believed that I should just not exist on their road.. <S> But you'll always get those ☺️ <S> Personally I wouldn't advise riding towards the middle of lanes as I know of folk who've been hit directly from behind doing this, as they've just not been seen at all.. as hard as that is to believe. <S> IMO I'd rather be passed closely than hit directly from behind. <S> This has even happened to my brother as he was stopped at traffic lights on a large motorbike. <S> On your dual carriageway if there is no cycle track/lane <S> just be careful and aware.. <S> Ride about 2 feet from the curb, wear bright clothing and use a red strobing rear LED light, even in the daytime! <S> Also as the roads are so busy and damaged these days a small camera may be worth considering. <S> Not only would it be helpful in the event of an accident, but it will also assist with any claims to the council for damage to your wheels & tyres etc travelling on todays broken roads.. <S> I have been refunded on a couple of occasions after providing pictures to the council of damage to my wheels and tyres due to hitting large water filled pot holes in the wet. <S> Take care and ride safe <A> I'm not sure about what UK law allows and doesn't allow, but the general advice for driving in mixed traffic in urban environments is to imagine that you are driving a car, and position yourself where the driver of your imaginary car would sit. <S> In absolute UK terms, this means you ride as many as 9 feet from the kerb, depending on road width. <S> Why? <S> It absolutely shuts down any attempt at passing you in the same lane. <S> This is the position other drivers will be looking for moving obstacles. <S> They do expect vehicles where vehicles normally are, so that's what they are going to look for. <S> Being further out on the road lets you see further down in intersections, especially when there are visual obstructions. <S> This works both ways too, which means other drivers will see you earlier than if you hug the edge of the road. <S> Oh, and I personally find this to be especially important in roundabouts. <S> When approaching a roundabout, I exit any bicycle lane I may have used and take a firm position on the driver-seat-side of the road. <S> You will also get honked at a lot, but as one of my sources put it: <S> Don’t worry if a driver is beeping at you. <S> In fact, it’s good. <S> It means the driver is aware of your presence, and has seen you. <S> By the act of beeping, they have made it clear that they are not going to pass you – they are simply taking out their frustration at being ‘held up.’ <S> The following two links explicitly mention the UK, so I assume they're at least somewhat based on UK law. <S> https://aseasyasridingabike.wordpress.com/2011/05/09/the-primary-position-putting-uk-cyclists-between-a-rock-and-a-hard-place/ <S> http://www.cyclinguk.org/be-seen-bike <A> Time for an action-camera on your handlebars? <S> I have one, and do one or two complaints of "passing too close" a year to the local police. <S> You have to be able to provide "supporting evidence" like this: Pic1 Pic2 Pic3 Pic4 Pic5 Pic6 <S> show a licence plate, demonstrate that two following cars passed safely but stayed in their lane, and a shot of the driver's face in the side mirror. <S> Whether a note from local plod helps modify driver behaviour or not, I don't know. <S> But my local police do act on these reports.
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There are so many things moving when entering and exiting roundabouts that I don't really expect drivers to also remember to look for bicycles squeezing by along the side. They don't expect tiny vehicles close to the kerb, so they won't be looking for them. I do recommend getting a strong taillight to alert even sleepy drivers to your presence in the middle of the road.
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Can hubs last forever? In theory, could a bicycle hub last forever if you kept overhauling it (and getting new spokes and rims and etc.)? I'd like to know about all the hubs, but what really interests me is whether or not cassette hubs and front hubs can be overhauled over and over and last 'forever'. <Q> If the shell is aluminum and we're talking about the whole thing and not just the bearing races, the literal answer is flat out no, because aluminum doesn't have a fatigue limit. <S> It will crack eventually. <S> As to the question of can a hub bearing race, real or hypothetical, last literally forever in any kind of use, that's the kind of question everyone likes speculating about <S> but I think you need a bearing engineer to begin answering, so I'll say I don't know. <S> In practical terms the answer is most cups/cones with enough preventative overhauling can be made to last a very, very long time, much longer than they normally do. <S> In my experience for a nicer hub with very hard, precisely made races <S> it's more or less indefinitely. <S> I've tried to keep more modest hubs going the same way and wound up wearing them out despite my best efforts, but I'm heavy and ride where it's wet. <S> There's a side conversation about using ball bearings whose hardness is a good match for the races, which is a topic usually glossed over in bike shops. <S> I don't know the details <S> but I've come to suspect it can matter quite a bit in the long-term lifespan of a hub. <S> How much flex the axle is experiencing is also a pretty major factor over time. <S> All freewheeling mechanisms wear out eventually as far as I know. <A> Bearing engineer piping in - technically you could have a 'forever' bearing using the right materials and lubrication - OR, change in envelope which increases the bearing capacity to the point where the applied radial, axial, and moment loads are so miniscule compared to capacity that they never wear. <S> This method of survival is dependent on your seal being impervious and grease life to prevent FOD and marginal lubrication conditions. <S> Keeping the mean hertzian stress level low, or replacing the parts with wear resistant material grades are the two options to go from normal to extreme longevity. <S> Bear in mind, the most innovative bicycle bearing is still a normal commercial item when compared to what is engineered for, say, a turbine in a rocket, so there's levels of development that haven't made it to the consumer market as the price would be prohibitive. <S> I would wager that for approximately $22000USD, I could make you a set of hub bearings that would last longer than the life of yourself or the bike. <S> Bargain <S> right? :) <A> I would not call that lasting "forever". <S> Put in a different way: if you don't replace these parts over time, the hub will break. <A> Not all hubs are fully serviceable. <S> I have a Chris King I had to have totally rebuilt for over $200. <S> Even had to replace the body. <S> You can get Chris King stainless steel hub for like $500 US that would be hard to destroy in a lifetime. <S> The Chis King hubs over $1000 are more for strength (and they will last a few years).
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A front hub contains a few parts that wear out but can be replaced: balls, bearing cone, axle, and hub (more modern designs exist).
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Front Shifter Won't Shift into 3rd The front shifter is a Shimano integrated brake-and-shift assembly. The front derailleur "groupo" is Shimano SIS. I can pull the cable to make the derailleur shift into third but the shifter doesn't have "enough throw" to do it via the shifter. Pulled the cover off and threw some lube in it and it appeared to look just fine, but didn't take the closest of looks before having to shutter the shop. First and second work just fine. Shifts up, shifts down. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. <Q> Cable tension Limit Screws Derailleur position/angle <S> These are the only things that actually affect your shifting mechanically. <S> If those are all proper, something is broken/misaligned/shredded. <A> There is a ratchet mechanism in place with a small metal pawl which has a weak spring. <S> The sticky grease stops the pawl (little metal square which engages notches or steps in the main part when the shift leaver is pushed across) from engaging the third notch, it almost drops in but not quite. <S> Fully degreasing the innards of the shifter and then spraying with T85 got ing working smoothly. <A> the grease inside of the shifter has gone bad. <S> It goes all sticky instead of slidey and the clicker gets stuck. <S> De grease and re grease the shifter. <A> But you did not mention, how this happened? <S> Is this a new bike, or did you change the cable? <S> Did this shifter work fine in the past? <S> I think there is some problem with the basic cable tension, if it is not set up properly then the 3rd gear could be a problem. <S> Try to find a youtube video, where they explain how to set it up properly, it's not that hard, just need some practice/patience. <A> The shifter has two size cogs in the centre. <S> The first activates 1st and 2nd. <S> To activate the third gear, a spring pulls the lever bar towards the centre (smaller cog). <S> The spring isn't very strong and will stick, not pulling it in and therefore not catching the cog. <S> Clean the area of the spring. <S> I just use oil. <S> It is the same mechanism with more cogs, for the other shifter for the gears on the wheel. <A> You can rule out the limit screws if the shifter is getting to the third index, as you've said it is. <S> The cable tension is another possibility but since the other two shifts are good, it's unlikely that's the issue. <S> I recommend you get the bike to your LBS to get it sorted out if you have troubles diagnosing the problem. <S> Just appraise your derailleur cage and it's angle <S> wrt to the chainrings before that <S> , it's likely you get to the root once you do that. <S> I hope this helps. :)
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From what it looks like, it can be the derailleur angle affecting the shifting to the third chainring or, it can be that your derailleur cage has suffered damage and is out of shape or shaved. Having had exactly the same problem I tracked it down to the shifter, and as a previous contributor stated it is the manufacturer’s grease that gets sticky and stops smooth operation. And yeah, the cage should be approximately parallel to the chainrings, you know what's wrong if it's not.
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Tire Rubbing Against Chainstay The specifics: Have an older Litespeed Vortex (2005) frame. I think back in these days the super skinny 20mm tires were in vogue. Anyways it seems like the frame might be super optimized towards these skinnier sizes? I put 25mm tires on and now when I'm out of the saddle on the downstroke I can hear an ever so faint rub for a second. How dangerous is this situation - can I try tightening the quick release on the back wheel down super tight - or possibly something else ? Thanks :D <Q> Assuming the wheel is good (is fully seated and centered properly in the dropouts and is true; if you spin it along its axis, there shouldn't be lateral movement) <S> you shouldn't be running a tire that rubs on the frame. <S> This can eat out the paint of the frame, the frame, and/or the tire. <S> (damaged frames can flex more than the undamaged frame, so might be something to check up on). <A> I seriously doubt the axle is slipping in the frame. <S> So a tighter quick release will not help. <S> The frame will flex a bit under load. <S> That is natural. <S> I assume you have checked the wheel is true? <S> I would not rub on an expensive frame. <S> Look for a thinner tire. <S> Limited <S> but there are some 24. <S> Or drop down to 23 like batman said (+1). <S> If you try other 25 mm the good news it you can still use it as a spare front but you already have one spare front. <S> Something like a Continental Grand Prix Force 24 mm? <S> Can you tell if it is rubbing on both sides? <S> You could mount a camera. <A> I build my own rear road wheel and had a terrible time making it dished correctly. <S> Instead the rim ended up too far left and rubbed on the frame. <S> Could be that your rear wheel is not dished enough? <S> If you measure the distance between the rim edge and the chainstay on both sides, it should be identical. <S> Anything more than 5% difference would be time for a redish. <S> Your LBS would be better at this than messing about with a spoke spanner - mine only cost $25NZ for a redish and true.
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Try moving to a different tire (possibly a smaller one, like a 700x23) if the wheel is good. I would not rub on even a cheap frame. Remember that you need some space between the tire and the frame, since the bicycle flexes under load Not all 25 are the same.
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Will a threaded post rim brake pad fit my brakes which take a thread-less post pad? I found these pads on Amazon and I really like them, but they are a bit different than my current pads. They are threaded and the ones I have now are threadless. If I tighten them would it fit on my brake? Here are the brakes I like. Here is what I currently have. Is it possible to make them fit? Thanks. <Q> No it won't work well <S> , I would not try it either... <S> is injury worth saving a few dollars? <S> Why not just buy the compatible parts? <A> More often than not, no. <S> The pads you have are threadless and use a Canti Eyebolt Assembly to attach them to the brake. <S> The ones you want are threaded post, and are more commonly found on modern V-Brakes. <A> Is it possible? <S> Possibly... with some "ghetto-rigging" , drilling or the like, but probably also a bad idea. <S> Clarks does make a similar pad for threadless <S> but they are not the triple compound like those you used as a example, they do however has removable/replaceable inserts which is handy at times <S> and you could probably find a triple compound pad insert that would fit. <S> What do you like about them? <S> The fact that the pads uses inserts? <S> or just think they look fancy? <A> I would highly recommend NOT doing something like using a threaded pad in a threadless setup. <S> The threadless setups are commonly called "Cantilever-Style" because cantilever systems are almost ALWAYS going to use the threadless type of pads, except those that specifically say "Cantilever V-Style. <S> " If you look on eBay, you'll find this is true if you search 'Cantilever Pads' versus 'V-Brake Pads'. <S> Where you said you had trouble stopping because it took "quite a while to stop," I'd say you either have a bad set of calipers, bad brake levers, damaged cable housings or bad housing stops, as there should be as close to zero flexibility in the brake system. <S> The pads should be 1-2mm away from the rim before you touch the brake lever if they're well set up on a decent set of trued wheels. <S> Then, pull the lever until the pads lightly touch the rim. <S> Then, watch the caliper arms and pull the lever as hard as you can. <S> If you are able to see flex that allows the brake to touch the handlebars, buy a new set of brake calipers or a new bike, because too much flex is ridiculously dangerous. <S> By the way, I HIGHLY recommend changing to V-Brake style systems, as I personally find them far easier to work on. <S> Those pads, the Clarks Elite Tri-Compound, are literally the same ones I use. <S> Be wary that you'll find an increase in the frequency for replacing them, as they're made of a softer material, but note that the power and the reliability that I've had from these pads are well worth that trade-off. <S> Good luck with either you choose, but please do not try to bodge the two worlds of V-Brake style and Cantilever style pads into one.
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My personal recommendation would be to either stick with threadless post brakes, or switch your brake caliper to one that takes threaded if your dead set on those particular pads. Such as these: from Chain Reaction Or Origin 8 also offers decent affordable pads such as these that are intended for wet weather use, but they are a static pad rather than an insert: From Niagra Cycle
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Can I partially upgrade from Shimano Sora to Ultegra 6800? I have a Shimano 9 speed groupset and I want to upgrade to something that's better on the climbs without shelling out and buying a whole new groupset which would be more money than my actual bike. Would it be possible to just buy a new 11 speed chain + 11 speed rear derailleur + 11 speed cassette + 11 speed shifters (all ultegra 6800)? I.e. I want to avoid buying front derailleur + hub + crankset. Would this work and be worth it? Thanks! <Q> Stay with 9 speed. <S> the beauty of Shimano 9 speed is that the 9 speed road levers are compatible with mountain derailleurs and vice versa. <S> You can get a 9 speed deore derailleur and a 9 speed 12-36 cassette and Bam! <S> way more gear range. <S> That's literally all you have to buy (and maybe a cable if your old one dies on removal) <S> edit: you will likely need a new chain as well as your current one will probably be too short (but hey 9 speed chains are way cheaper than 11 speed chains!) <S> If you actually want to go to 11 speed, as stated above you'll need at least chainrings, chain, cassette, shifters, and front and rear derailleurs. <S> It won't necessarily buy you more gear range though, honestly. <S> I believe the ultegra 11 speed derailleurs can still only go up to 32 teeth on the cassette maximum. <S> edit: as @nathan Knutson pointed out, 11 speed road for Shimano uses a wider freehub body (mountain does not, but is incompatible with drop bar shifters/road derailleurs) so you could not simple put an 11speed cassette on your current wheel <A> The only piece of it that can kinda sorta be re-used is the cranks. <S> The far better path is just get a new chain, 9-speed mountain RD, and an 11-34. <A> YES, I just did that on my bike <S> and it's running great! <S> I changed the shifter and cassette(11-32) to 105(5800) and the derailleur is Ultegra (6800). <S> New chain is KMC x11. <S> The front is still Sora! <S> Works like a charm. <S> #Triban520 with 11 speeds
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Front derailer cage gap to chain width compatibility is a real thing that matters and affects performance, and your 9-speed wheel won't take an 11-speed road cassette unless it's already an 11-speed wheel running a 1.8mm spacer, or it has a retrofit 11spd freehub available, or it's a Mavic road wheel (basically the same as an 11-speed wheel with the spacer).
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Which brake should I use, on a full suspension bike, if I broke my brake lever I broke my back brake lever, and I want to use only one brake, which should I use the front or the back? <Q> If it's to get you home or to the bike shop, use the one that works and ride cautiously. <S> You may have to walk down some things. <S> Trying to fiddle with it at the side of the road or trail is risky - you don't want to lose a screw. <S> If you're considering long term use <S> it's a bad idea to run only one brake in most situations, especially as you know the ones you've got are prone to failure. <S> As you're taking about full suspension I assume you mainly use it off road. <S> I'm not a mountain biking expert by any means, but on loose surfaces you don't have much stopping power from the back as a side is both easy and ineffective. <S> On the other hand a light touch on the back brake is very useful, and overheating can be an issue on a single brake. <S> On road you have the same effect to a lesser extent but the consequences of your second brake failing can be more severe (an uncontrolled meeting with fast-moving traffic). <A> Common consensus is that the front brake is capable of providing a lot more stopping force compared to the back brake. <S> So if it was a choice between front and back, I'd choose the front brake. <S> In reality, your bike needs some maintenance. <S> I would strongly suggest replacing both brake levers, even though only one is broken. <S> Its probable they are the same brand and the other one could suffer the same breakage. <A> I would generally agree with what has been posted, but I will add a caveat about where you are riding, and respectfully disagree with user32345. <S> In hard braking the weight shifts significantly forward, and it then takes very little rear braking for the rear wheel to break contact with the surface, and when that happens with a rear brake only you have no brakes at all. <S> A need for hard braking usually means that something bad is about to happen. <S> On loose ground you can juke the bike and slide selectively to shed speed, but that isn't likely to work on pavement unless you are an expert. <S> I fully agree with user32345 that the most sensible thing is to get both brakes in working order, and soon.
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On loose surfaces, the rear brake is usually better, and on ice definitely so, but on pavement the front brake is the only one that makes sense. If you're competent with tools then you can do this yourself, otherwise you're up for shop labour costs.
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How many days does it take for an absolute newbie to bike 330km? I have no cycling experience but want to purchase a bike and do a 330km multi-day route by myself. Before getting into this somewhat risky business, I would like to run pros/cons by experts on this site. :) My pros: Physically fit. Should be OK in term of cardiorespiratory. I will be biking in a highly populated area (around Bay Area). So if anything goes wrong I can just get a Uber and go home. My cons: 0 cycling experience. Maybe a weak knee. Got a bad knee from running long distance in the past. Haven't used it for a long time but should be much better now. My question is, is it reasonable for a person like me to finish this in 3 days? Any suggestions? Thanks! <Q> Don't do it, unless you're an athletic teenager! <S> You haven't toughened your backside or your hands to endure riding for hours. <S> Your lower back, which complements the legs, would develop incredible aches, as would your shoulders, which are used to keep your head up. <S> The good news is that your knee would probably be fine, assuming that your pedals allow some "float" (right-to-left rotation). <S> I assume that you have a quality bike that has been recently checked by a mechanic and fitted to you, because little things like the exact seat position matter for long rides. <S> I've read lots of stories from people who have tried long-distance events with no preparation, and many of them survived, but they all said they wished they had prepared! <S> You might be able to survive, but would it be an enjoyable experience? <S> I doubt it... <A> I've done 330 km in 3 days, but I was used to riding a lot. <S> Since you are fit, and with good cardio, on your first day you will ride something like 50-70km. <S> The next morning, you will be in hell: <S> Your butt will express its displeasure in ways you can't possibly imagine. <S> You see, in order to comfortably ride long distance, you first need a saddle that fits your butt well <S> (it took me many tries to find that) and your butt also needs to get used to it. <S> This takes a while, and many rides, starting short. <S> But with the wrong gear, it can be a nightmare, man. <S> The muscles in your legs will be in pain. <S> If you do jogging for example, your muscles may be exercised, but not in the same way that riding a bike requires. <S> Your neck will hurt from looking up. <S> And, since you didn't take the time to fit the bike properly (saddle position and height, handlebars, etc) the rest of you will probably feel like hell too. <S> You'll need 3 days of rest to get on the bike again! <S> At which point you will realize all the equipment you never truly tested will begin to break (like cheap saddlebags, cheap gloves, etc). <S> Also, if the bike breaks down, you'll have no experience to fix it... <S> Also, on your first day, you will stop a hundred times to adjust your saddle, tune your bike, adjust the damn helmet strap that doesn't fit, realize your shoes give you blisters, and all sorts of tiny pet peeves that don't happen anymore when you got a bike and equipment setup that Just Works. <S> So... start from the beginning LOL <A> As an ex racing cyclist who would regularly ride 100km per day just for training and 210km on a sunday club run <S> I'd say your not giving yourself much of a chance here as riding that distance even over 3 days is not easy for a non cyclist.. <S> You really need to be bike fit for a 330km ride, especially if there are time constraints. <S> Training sets you up properly and will make the difference between the ride being an enjoyable experience and a painful slog. <S> You may start off fine on your first 50km or so and think everything is going well.. <S> But with no miles or training under your belt you'll soon be suffering from muscle fatigue & cramps.. <S> Not to mention the increased chance of injury. <S> Also be aware of the other pains associated with starting to ride a bike... <S> Like wrist, butt and arm pain, these will normally pass but it takes a few weeks for everything to settle-in, assuming that the new bike fits you properly and is adjusted up well. <S> I'm not trying to put you off here.. <S> just trying to make you aware of what you can expect. <S> I'll still wish you all the best on your endeavour.. & BTW.. <S> Stay fuelled-up & hydrated. <A> I would advise to do a bit of training and reconnaissance before you try to ride 330km in 3 days. <S> Why this specific distance by the way? <S> Given that you mention being in a good physical condition the actual physical exercise should not be the problem. <S> If you want to ride 110km per day an average speed of 20km/h means that you are on the bike riding for 5.5 hours in one day. <S> If you stop often and take your time resting you could stretch this to 11 hours and be alright. <S> Make sure you eat and drink enough and do not start in 'Tour de France mode' thinking you need to finish the 'stage' in under two hours. <S> The problems will be in day 2 and 3. <S> Your legs, butt, wrists will hurt since you have no cycling training and your body will have to get used to it. <S> If you keep on pacing yourself and taking your time I see no reason why you should not be able to finish it under normal circumstances, <S> but .... it will hurt. <S> Make sure you do not over stress your body and your knees. <S> My maximum day distance is 240km, however I ride a recumbent and ride regularly and being from the Netherlands it was all flat terrain.
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How much training you would realistically want to do prior to the event would depend upon your age and your state of fitness, but I'd suggest at least a month of riding three days a week. If you rode gravel roads (or anything without asphalt really) without proper equipment (ie, fat tyres or front suspension) your wrists will give up too. With a saddle that suits you, and a hardened ass, riding all day is no problem... Make sure that you eat healthy and plenty in the evening to recover and get a decent place to sleep (if not at home). If the event is coming up soon, I'd recommend to skip it this year and start training for next year's event.
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How long does an unused helmet keep for? Will a helmet suffer in any way if it is kept in its original box indoors for some years before ever being used? For instance, I might keep it unused for 5 years and then use it for 5 years. I ask because I own a helmet that I find very comfortable, but the model has been discontinued. I have noticed some end-of-line stock and I might buy more than one, so long as it is perfectly OK to keep a helmet unused for a long time. <Q> There is a common "fact" out there that you should replace a helmet after 5 years, regardless of use or crashes as there is concern that the crush properties of the foam may have changed (e.g., hardening) which could provide less protection. <S> However the data doesn't seem to bare this out. <S> A recent study did extensive testing of hundreds of used helmets collected from the general public showed that there was no relevant impact performance change with age. <S> The helmets tested had been used but showed no signs of damage and were manufactured between 1987 and 2013. <S> These results show that if your helmet is not damaged there is no need to replace it simply because of aging. <S> Now likely at some point there is an upper limit whereafter a given age it will need to be replaced, however that limit appears to be well beyond 5 years (some of the tested helmets were over 25 years old - and they still passed crash testing). <S> The most important thing appears that they have been certified under a recent standard and the helmet is not recalled. <A> The study took 63 used and unused, but not crashed, helmets and tested them. <S> Ultimately it reported "Based on these data, the impact attenuation properties of EPS foam in field-used bicycle helmets do not degrade with the age." <S> Refer <S> The Journal of Biomechanical Engineering. <S> Detail in case link breaks. <S> Age Does Not Affect the Material Properties of Expanded Polystyrene Liners in Field-Used Bicycle Helmets Shannon G. Kroeker, Stephanie J. Bonin, Alyssa L. DeMarco, Craig A. Good and Gunter P. Siegmund <S> Author and Article Information: J Biomech Eng 138(4), 041005 <S> (Mar 03, 2016) <S> (9 pages) Paper <S> No: <S> BIO-15-1567; <A> A helmet in storage should last decades, provided: <S> It's reasonably well protected from physical damage <S> It's not exposed to solvent vapors (eg, petroleum fumes, from storage in a garage), and It's not exposed to UV rays (generally not a problem if kept in a box, inside a house). <S> There may also be a slight chance that certain insects would infest the foam, if stored in a buggy shed or some such. <S> (But storing with moth balls would be a bad idea, as the moth balls release fumes.) <A> I generally refuse to post any kind of claim without the source, but I will throw this much out until I can relocate the source and post it. <S> One factor that will affect thermoplastic or polycarbonate helmets over a period of time is ultraviolet (e.g. sunlight), and some resins in laminated helmets are also susceptible. <S> This will degrade these materials, as well as the foam inside the helmet, and even significant degradation isn't necessarily visible in the shell. <S> So if perchance the helmet is stored with UV exposure over a long period of time, I would be careful. <S> I realize that this scenario isn't probable, just something to consider. <S> If you are planning to store your new helmet indoors, then no problem.
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A scientific study has found age makes not difference to the protection provided by a bicycle helmet.
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Do mid-low end bike manufacturers only design their bikes to last 1000 miles? When exploring a braking system, I noticed with surprise that they tested their brake actuations to match the 1000 mile quality life expectation of a comfort bike. This seems to imply that this is the expected design life. Since the page is oriented towards bicycle manufacturers, can we imply that 1000 miles is the expected design life of mid- and low-end bicycles? The lab itself seems rather legit: This does hinge on what "quality life span" and "comfort bike" mean. tl;dr: Is there evidence that the industry believes that 1000 miles is the reasonable lifespan of a low- to mid-end bicycle? <Q> have a look at this : <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Design_life and this : https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mean_time_between_failures <S> It is all a matter of statistic and probability of failures in the lifetime of the component. <S> This means that the component should have a normal life of about 1000 miles before a certain percentage of failure <S> (can) start appearing on a number of components. <S> Another example, my washing machine has a design life of about 14 years [1]; before that the number of failure should be minimal according to the manufacturer, after 14 years, the number of failures should start to statistically increase. <S> It does not mean the component will fail after the design life, but that the probability of failure increase. <S> [1] http://homeguides.sfgate.com/expected-lifespans-washing-machines-67293.html <A> Since that search term "quality life span of a comfort bicycle" does not come up in google I would conclude it is not a standard. <S> Just take it at the word. <S> In 2013, ACT Lab began testing SURESTOP for a few bicycle brands looking to use the technology on their bikes. <S> Durability testing – tests were run for 1000 miles and 5000+ brake actuations, which historic labratory testing has shown to represent the average quality life span of a comfort bicycle. <S> The SURESTOP did not show any signs of failure during this test. <S> Note they misspelled laboratory. <S> More than 1 brand was OK with only testing "1000 miles and 5000+ actuations". <S> Does not mean they expect it to fail on 1001 miles and 5000++. <S> If it passes there is no evidence it will fail at 1001 miles. <S> I think that number more reflects the BSO market than SureStop. <S> That is a believable number for BSO (to me). <S> SureStop is using it on their mid range bicycle so clearly they expect it to have a lifespan more than 1000 miles <S> or they would fail in that market. <S> Another market is rental which is a high mileage market. <S> Not saying it will take a lot of miles <S> but clearly it would not be in their best interest to design for 1000 miles. <S> Even if a BSO is good with 1000 it seems like it would be their best interest to test at a higher number. <S> If wear out a brake pad would fail the "quality life span" then that would explain 1000. <S> The lab may have historical data that they do see failures on low end bikes in that period. <S> Most likely scenario is marketing is looking at the low end market and determined that most of those bikes are not used more than "1000 miles and 5000+ actuations". <S> How cheap can we get and hit that mark. <A> Warning: speculation ahead. <S> What leads me to think that is that lab testing is costly, and some tests are also verytime consuming. <S> Take stress-testing (testing for material fatigue) for exmple. <S> Flexing a component repeatedly until it fails. <S> My guess is that those tests must be performed on a statistically significative sample. <S> You either build several machines to test several prototypes at once or do it one by one. <S> Im also assuming that testing for 2000 km needs the double as to test for 1000 km. <S> Taking that into account, there must be a certain point of equilibrium between how much to test something, and how sure to be of the spected lifetime of a design, o a production batch. <S> This is much more important in low to mid priced items, because they are sold in higher volumes, so a tiny cost saving gets multiplied by huge quantities. <S> Higher priced items on the other hand tend to be more exclusive, much less units are sold, but also, all that testing is even part of the marketing of the product, and the target market is likely to "appreciate" all that testing and quiality guarantees, i.e. it's more sensible to test these products toward higher extents. <S> That being said, I doubt that there is something "conspiracy theory" styled argument towards purposefully designing a mid-range or low-range component to fail after a defined time/usage span. <S> That would add up to the design and development stages.
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I think that those lifespans are more likely to be a "minimum aimed lifetime" rather than something else.
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How should I remove a tyre that's stuck to the rim with old sealant? I have a wheel with a puncture. It seems to be a pinch flat (the air is shooting out in the direction of the rim) but I can't get the tyre off to investigate. This is an ex-tubeless tyre that I put a tube in once. Guess I should have cleaned up the sealant first. Now I can't even move the tyre, let alone remove it. The rim is aluminium. Is there a powerful solvent that is safe to use, that would weaken the old Stan's + muck glue? I googled around this, and most answers are 'be a man! use tyre levers! No, they're for girls, use your thumbs!'. Well, I'm beat. I have poor muscle tone and bad motor skills for medical reasons, so I accept the possibility that 'normal' people could just pull it off. I, however, can't. The suggestion here was use a credit card but that didn't work. I could take it to the bike shop, but something tells me this isn't the last time something like this will happen. I'd like a solution for next time. I need a solvent that won't attack the aluminium. Ideally I'd like to save the tyre/tube, but that's a bonus. Edit: whoever suggested a vice, that worked. It unstuck the tyre and I could remove it normally with tyre levers. <Q> Before looking for a product to solve the problem, try this. <S> Many tubeless rims grip the tire very tightly when one is just trying to push the tire very inwards to unseat it. <S> Sealant isn't glue and doesn't have all that much tensile strength. <S> It's usually the case that you're more up against the mechanics of how the bead locks in place. <A> Try a vice. <S> I am the comment that suggested that. <A> As I remember charcoal lighter fluid should be safe for the aluminum and should un-gunk it pretty quickly... <S> I don't think it's safe for the tire. <S> But if you're ok with possibly having to change the tire, it should work. <S> Also, works great as a degreaser in those chain cleaning tools with the brushes. <S> Just don't smoke while doing it.
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The trick is often to push the bead section more straight down in the direction of the rim well, with a slight scooping motion inward.
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Inside of my full suspension bike pivots is cracked! Is this normal? I just noticed it when I was cleaning my bike after a long day downhill mtb. Are those screws? Thanks for any replies. <Q> Are you sure those hex bolts are cracked? <S> They could instead just have peeling chrome. <S> Hex bolts tend to accumulate water and grime and thus corrosion. <S> I'd poke at them with a sharp ice pick and see if it's just surface peeling of chrome or if the bolts are actually cracked. <S> If it's the former you can ignore. <S> If it's the latter, follow @criggie's suggestion. <A> The good news is those bolts aren't load bearing parts directly. <S> The bad news is those are holding the load-bearing parts in place, so a failure of the bolt will allow the pivots to fail very quickly. <S> I'd strongly recommend taking them out and getting replacements from the maker of your frame. <S> Have a look at the answers to this question about shearing rotor bolts <S> notice how little beef there is between the head and the shaft? <S> Damage to bolt heads needs to be fixed. <A> Take them out and check if they are hollow, it might be that those are only the burrs from machining the hex. <A> That's left over material from the broaching of the hex head in the bolt. <S> broaching is a machining process in which material is removed. <S> In this case the inside of the hex is formed with a broaching tool <A> Should be nothing to worry about but ask a mechanic if you want to be sure. <A> Broaching in this reference: Hammering a hex shaped tool into the round hole in the bolt (maybe done when the bolt is red hot) to produce the hex profile for the allen wrench. <S> Pushes the material from the sides of the hole down and leaves the strange looking ragged chips you see when the tool is pulled out. <S> The aluminum surrounding such a hi-tensile bolt would probably fail long before the bolt fails.
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Those are artifacts or chips resulting from broaching the hex into the bolt head. It could just be surface peeling of the chrome.
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Multiplication of Cassette Ratios The title can not explain it more specifically, however, recently I watched a video where I guy explains a calculation and tells the result gives how easily you climb ramps. Here is the calculation: Rear cassette: Biggest sprocket size / smallest sprocket sizeCrank cassette: Biggest sprocket size / smallest sprocket size You multiply the end results and multiply it again with 100 which gives you a percentage. Here is an example: Say I have a front cassette 22-32-44 and a rear cassette 11-36. The calculation is as follows: (44/22)*(36/11)*100 = %654 So the guy says the bigger this number, the easier you climb ramps? That doesn't make ay sense to me. Does it hold any truth or does he try to mean something else? <Q> As others have already noted, the figure to which you refer pertains to the drivetrain's range, not to the lowest gear. <S> The mechanical advantage that allows you to climb hills easily (small chainring driving your largest cassette's sprocket, say 22x36 in your example) is customarily expressed in gear-inches , a rather meaningless measure -- it indicates the equivalent diameter of a wheel that would be geared 1/1, but a standard nonetheless. <S> 16 gear-inches would be considered small. <S> Your example yields 15.9 gear-inches. <S> An excellent gear calculator can be found here . <S> Play with it and all should become clear. <A> So the difference between your fastest gear ratio and your slowest gear ratio expressed as a percent. <S> Generally speaking a wider range means a lower lowest gear, but you could also get a higher range by making your fastest gear faster. <S> This page might also be useful- http://www.mbr.co.uk/news/500-gear-range-mean-drivetrain-companies-boasting-percentages-347176 <A> The percent you get from that calculation is a way of describing the total range of a bicycle's (or other machine's) gearing, but it doesn't say anything in and of itself about exactly how low or how high the gearing is. <S> In other words, that 654% here is expressing that the 4:1 ratio of the 44/11 is a 654% higher gear than the 11:18. <S> It's denoting how much variance there is in the entire system. <S> You don't see this way of expressing gearing used very much with derailer gears. <S> Where it does come up is with internally geared hubs. <S> With internal hubs you have quite a bit of freedom to use whatever cog and ring sizes you want, meaning you can "position" the range with more freedom. <A> That would be an indication of total gear range on the bicycle. <S> In that example highest gear is 6.54 x lowest gear. <S> For climbing ability take cassette / chain ring. <S> A 1:1 is a pretty good climber for road. <S> For each pedal rotation one wheel rotation. <S> On that bike your best climb is 36 / 22 <S> = 1.6 <S> (44/22)*(36/11) = <S> (36/22) / (11/44) = <S> lowest / highest <S> The front is chain rings.
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That's not calculating your lowest gear (which would determine how easily you could ride up a ramp), but the total gear range.
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Hybrid mountain bikes for the city? So I'm currently looking for a new bike and would like to get another mountain bike as it's most important to me that it's resilient and that I can ride all terrain. However most of the time I'd use it for the city. Are there mountain bikes (or are there ways for adjusting them) that are more fit for cities? In particular I'd like to sit comfortably on it. I don't have much expertise with bikes which is why I'm asking here. <Q> The standard advice if you want to ride a mountain bike on the road is to fit slick tires rather than knobby tires, and lock out any suspension if you have it (since you don't need it on the road). <S> That being said, you're going to typically have lower gearing than a road or hybrid bike (due to the nature of mountain biking), though you may have some room to adjust this with cassette and chainring sizes. <S> At the end of the day, if you're going to be using this bike only on the road, it isn't going to be as nice as an appropriately hybrid or cyclocross or road bike, and it would be preferable not to get a mountain bike. <S> Note that hybrids/cross bikes are often suitable for things like fire roads, gravel and what not (light off road situations); they won't take well to dropping as much as a mountain bike, but you have to ask yourself if this bike is ever really going to do this (and whether you'd be better off just renting a mountain bike when you want to do this, or buying a mountain bike specifically for this purpose). <A> Hardtail with front suspension lockout. <S> Even if a full-sus has lockout/stiffening on the rear suspension it will add weight at any price point. <S> Slick(er) tyres than normal on a mountain bike will help. <S> The minimum width will be limited by your rims but <S> 35 or 38mm could be an option. <S> The reason you don't want suspension active while pedalling smooth roads (or even long climbs on dirt roads while mountain biking) is that it is designed to absorb energy from up-down movement. <S> When the main source of up-down movement is your pedalling effort (rather than the trail surface), that's where the energy comes from, making pedalling harder. <S> You'll really see and feel this if you tackle steep climbs on smooth roads. <A> Mountain bikes can be as comfortable as any other. <S> With slicks they actually ride more comfortably than most because they generally have more cushioning from the tyres. <S> I have both mountain bike and cruiser. <S> The cruiser is a bit faster and lighter on the road (I have a BSO mountain bike), but in terms of comfort I don't notice a difference. <S> However with ANY sort of offroad I notice a big difference in favour of the mountain bike. <S> In saying that, my mountain bike is a 29'er hardtail, I don't feel comfortable on the smaller wheeled mountain bikes, but that might be just a matter of practice. <S> The bigger wheels do make for a smoother more comfortable ride. <S> I'm not convinced by those that recommend locking out the front suspension. <S> One factor is when commuting you quite often carry loads, I have a toolbelt full of expensive engineering tools on my handlebars and usually a bag and laptop on the back, the front suspension is useful with these things. <S> Commuting is a lot of different needs, speed isn't that big a factor for many people. <S> Worrying about pedaling effort is good if you're shaving seconds off a race I imagine, but in practice you don't notice it, it's like half filling your water bottle to reduce weight a fraction.
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The mountain bike takes bumps/potholes better, skids better and is basically more forgiving for a rough rider on the road and up and down curbs.
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Disc brakes make a grinding sound I am completely new to cycling and purchased a road bike equipped with Tektro Lyra mechanical disc brakes. I have ridden an estimated 20 miles total so far and was unaware that there was a bedding in process for the brake system. My question is, how loud are the brakes supposed to be while in low to moderate use? My brakes have an slightly annoying grinding noise which sounds like metal on metal - no squealing, and they seem to shudder slightly when i pull hard on brake. I've tried reading articles and other questions to see if i can fix the issue however i am still a bit confused. If they were not bedded in properly is there something i can do instead of purchasing new pads and rotor? Any suggestions on if this is normal during the break in period or if i should do something else to remedy the situation? <Q> From your description there are two different areas this could fall under: problems with adjustment that are causing the rotor to hit the disc caliper or adaptor, or problems with bed-in. <S> They shouldn't be loud under normal braking. <S> That you mention shudder is the clue something is wrong here. <S> The first thing you should do is double check very carefully that the brake(s) in question are not adjusted such that the rotor can ever get contact the caliper body or the caliper adapter (if present). <S> It should only ever be able to touch brake pad. <S> If it's contacting anything else, hopefully it's just a case of re-adjustment, but too much riding like that can destroy things. <S> If that's not the problem, i.e. everything is adjusted properly but it's giving these symptoms anyway, the first thing I would do is remove, lightly sand, and re-install the pads, then lightly sand the rotor(s) and clean thoroughly with alcohol or brake cleaner. <S> Then do a thorough bedding procedure after reading some good long thing that explains the theory and practice of bed-in. <S> If they still do it, replace the pads. <S> If they still do it after that, replace the rotor too. <S> Some of the brakes out there now have this tendency to just start making a rapid-fire shudder when you brake, as the pad goes over the cut-outs of the rotor, and I don't know that it's even something that has to do with bed-in. <S> Maybe. <A> Although I'm unfamiliar with Tektro Lyra's, I have been bedding in a new Shimano SLX disc brake on my commuter so have a little recent experience on this. <S> Given you are only 20 miles in <S> I'd give it a little more time as this 'grinding' noise may just be the very top layer of the new pad wearing in. <S> If it's still 'grinding' after 100 or so miles I'd take it back to the bike shop and ask them to check it over. <S> Brake shudder may indicate the pads or calipers are every so slightly mis-aligned. <S> There are loads of tutorials online about how to align them: http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/how-to-align-your-disc-brake-calipers-32591/ <S> My SLX has taken about 120-130 miles (or 2-3 weeks' daily use) to bed in properly. <S> Hope that helps! <A> A bit of noise is not uncommon with discs, if the wheel spins freely don't worry too much unless its annoying you. <S> The tolerances are very fine, so the slightest disk warping cause a bit of rubbing. <S> A bit of dirt and grit also does it.... <S> Mechnical disks usually have one pad fixed and move just one. <S> If the fixed pad is a little too tight it will rub. <S> You may need to undo the fixed pad a fraction and tighten the on that turns the same amount. <A> The main problem is light braking may glaze the brakes decreasing overall braking effectiveness. <S> The common practice is ~30 hard stops is needed to bed in the pads. <S> So the best thing to do is go for a ride and get up to 30 <S> + <S> km/h <S> and then brake hard down to stopped. <S> Repeat. <S> And then see if your brakes work better.
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You should get some slightly "textured" feedback as the pad bites down on the rotor as you use the brake, but it shouldn't shudder.
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How long should I ride? I am 24/Male and I have been riding since a year. Recently endurance riding has interested me. I have done two rides of 20 km each. Now I am planning for a 46 km ride.l My question is, should I go for it? or should I do some more 20 km rides? <Q> Go for it - you're young and riding over the last year will give you an idea of your capabilities. <S> Do make sure your bike is maintained - having a mechanical is no fun. <S> Take your spares/tools and food and water. <S> If the distance is challenging, think of it as an "out and back" <S> which is each-way only 3 km longer than your normal rides. <S> It becomes two rides in one day, with a bit of a rest at the half way. <S> For me, there's a nice pie shop about 60 km away, <S> so that's two rides with a 30 minute light-lunch stop in the middle. <S> Pacing is good, don't go too hard out in the first half. <S> But the rest at the half way will help a lot and the ride home will always feel shorter than the ride out. <S> You'll never find out what you're capable of if you keep doing the same trips and distances. <S> Extend yourself and push some limits. <A> The key is going to be how you felt after those 20km rides. <S> Assuming you were OK, the longer ride should be fine though you'll be tired <S> and you'll ache in unexpected places. <S> Going from a 1 hour to a 2 hour ride (roughly, assumed times) <S> you may well want to carry (more) water and an energy snack just in case. <A> I've been where you were 3 years ago. <S> Basically you can keep going. <S> Your body will tell you it's limits. <S> Make sure you listen to it. <S> Aches and pains in your joints or tendons are an important signal not to be disregarded. <S> Muscle ache however is a sign that you're improving. <S> A good rule of thumb is, if you are comfortable riding distance <S> X <S> then you can also do 1.33 <S> * X <S> if you have to. <S> This is generally the advice I read when people want to reach a set distance. <S> So if you want to do a 100km run, then train to be able to do a 75km run while coming home feeling ok. <S> Once you reach this point you are ready to do the 100km. <S> So in your case if you are now comfortable with 20 you can probably do 25 and come home tired. <S> Once you're comfortable with 25 (should take only a few trips) <S> you'll be good for 33. <S> and so on. <S> The first few steps up will only take several (2-4) trips. <S> Once you reach 60-80km distance it will take longer / will take more training to be able to increase though. <S> so you probably can skip a step or two. <S> Before going on the 46km, see if you can do 34 and check when you get back if you are tired or exhausted. <S> If you're just tired then you're ready for 46 :) <S> Once you go for multi hour bike rides <S> I can recommend you start looking into bringing food and water. <S> Dehydration happens fast when you cycle longer distances, and unless you keep your heartrate low you'll slowly use up your stored short term energy stores. <S> Specifically to your question: given your age and the fact that you've done a year of cycling already, just go for it. <S> Make sure you bring food (bananas are your friend) and plenty of water. <S> (750-1000ml an hour if you cycle fast). <S> Just keep your legs moving and you'll get there.
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However, if you've been doing these 20km rides for a year you probably are already coming home very fresh / not tired at all. If you had any pain on the short rides you need to deal with that first - probably by adjusting the bike. By going for longer distances you'll train your body in several ways and you will be able to go further and further. There is no shame in taking a break for a few hours at the halfway point.
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Advice on replacing a Weinmann brake caliper when the cable is fed from the bottom, please I would like to replace a set of Weinmann brake calipers on a Raleigh ladies' bike with newer, modern and more efficient calipers like a dual-pivot one. The problem that I have is that the cable to the rear caliper is routed from the bottom, as seen in the attached images. I have not yet managed to find a suitable dual-pivot caliper so that it would accept the cable coming in from the bottom and not from the top.Do you know of a caliper that would do the job?Any advice, help and/or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. <Q> Honestly, the back brake contributes so little to braking that its not worth fitting a dual pivot. <S> I'd simply change the brake pads to Kool Stop, maybe run a new inner and outer cable, and leave that single pivot in place. <S> Clean the rim's braking track too. <S> Dual pivots tend to be more speed orientated, which means racing frames and cables that go in the top. <S> A mixte or ladies frame is not speed focussed. <S> So a bottom-entry dual pivot rear brake caliper would be a rare duck. <S> I couldn't find one with "more turn" Web site says "To use our Travel Agent as a friction reducing roller simply route the cable on the outer edge of the wheel and it is smooth sailing for your brakes around tight bends" From http://problemsolversbike.com/products/brakes/travel_agents_-_6416 <S> Not ideal, but here's a lady's frame used with cantilever brakes and a pulley hanging off the seat clamp, to give some ideas. <S> This would not really fix your problems because the cable still faces upwards. <S> If your bike had the middle stays, like a mixte frame then this would be ideal. <S> Using the existing caliper too. <S> As per @robokaren idea, this might work down at the chainstays, given enough washers. <S> Finally consider running full housing down, up, and down into your dual pivot caliper. <S> The friction will be higher, but if you use non-compressible housings with teflon then it will help. <S> A couple of cable clamps to hold the outer in place could be useful too. <A> One other (non-optimal) solution is to move the brakes to your chainstays by using the bracket and hole that is there normally for the kickstand. <S> It's not optimal as that location gets dirty and is hard to adjust the brakes. <S> It's better on mixte designs that have a middle set of stays between the seat and chain stays. <S> You may need to make a simple bracket out of plate steel or aluminum so that the caliper is at the right place. <S> Note that you can adjust how close the calipers are to the wheel by varying the distance between the holes in the plate. <S> This means you can use very short reach caliper brakes. <S> Because short reach means higher leverage and because this placement has the shortest and straightest brake cable distance of your other caliper options, you should have the most powerful braking that you can get from a caliper brake -- assuming dry conditions. <S> In wet conditions, the brakes may get so much water kicked up from the front tire to negate this advantage. <A> A third (non-optimal) solution is if you are going to replace the wheel and hub anyway is to get a disc brake compatible rear hub and a rear disc-brake adapter.. <S> With said rear wheel disc brake adapter, a rotor, and a cheap set of mechanical calipers -- you're all set. <S> This would only make sense if you were replacing the wheel and brakes anyway. <S> Normally discs on the rear are pretty senseless because most of the braking is from the front, but it might be the easiest, cheapest, and most powerful solution here -- if you're already replacing the wheel.
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You might be able to find some kind of pulley, but for a low-end steel MTB-BSO, new brake pads+cable will be a substantial braking improvement by themselves. To answer the question - consider using a dual pivot caliper with a travel agent like this, to get the cable around 90 degrees of the bend.
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Buy a bycicle - total noob? I'm currently in Finland, I got a bit of cash and I want to buy a bicycle because the one I had blew up and it wasn't exactly mine anyway; now I have never in my life bought a bicycle, or anything similar, I don't know brands or anything. My question is, should I buy a new one or an used better one? which one? I plan to use to commute everywhere, most way are streets, some other ways are dirt pathways, sometimes both are covered by ice, sometimes snow, and sometimes an insane amount of small rocks. That's why the previous one got completely wrecked. Any advice? ======== Most of the sidewalk has this texture that's to avoid people falling when there's a layer of ice. Sometimes it is completely covered by ice very slippery, and machines remove snow from the ways you use to commute and travel so 5 cm of snow is the most even if everything else is covered on a meter of snow; a lot of people don't use bikes on winter, but I'm crazy so... but anyway it's the little rocks that represent a problem, some of them are pointy. My budget, it's hard to explain, I have around 500 to 1000 eur to say, biking has been my primary transport mechanism after walking, so I want something that resists; however I'm worried what would I do if I have to leave the country. <Q> You're not a total noob, you have ridden the first bike and know what you like and don't like about it. <S> I'm unfamiliar with the weather in Finland, but I guess winter means snow. <S> How deep a snow would you ride through before its too much ? <S> ~$500-600 USD will be a BSO, and while that might be okay, they're not built for lots of riding. <S> If your budget was $500, I'd spend $100-$250 on a nice tidy used bike, and use the rest for lights, helmet, vest, etc. <S> Save any leftover for repairs. <S> If your budget was $1000 I'd go for a new commuter bike (a rigid MTB with no suspension) with bigger wide tyres for $600-$900. <S> Also, you'll need a helmet vest and lights. <S> A Yowie is also good for cold weather riding, as are gloves and overshoes. <S> You may have some of this already. <A> I would go for a trekking or gravel bike; it's flexible and you let you refine your style (more road, more unpaved) later. <S> A trekking bike can be more practical, gravel more sporty. <S> Because of the weather I'd strongly suggest an internal hub, which let you completely cover the chain and avoid mechanicals from grit and salt. <S> For the same reason, fenders are a must. <S> Also, a hub dynamo is a must if you regularly ride in the dark and don't want to think every time about bringing/charging lights. <S> Disc brakes are a bit better in bad weather, but it's not a strong requirement. <S> Only consider that if you can afford a good frame and components first. <S> I'd choose tires in the range 40..50 mm, using one of those design that are more smooth in the centre but knobby on the edges (fast on road, but useable on snow/ground). <S> Used or new, it's too dependent on your ability to see an old bike condition and what the local market offers, both in terms of new and used bikes, and warranty. <S> Hint: keep an eye on which bikes other riders in your area are using! <A> I you are going to be relying on your bike for transport to work, you should have at least 2 available to ride. <S> Look for fender clearance gaps around the brakes. <S> Have opinions on hand reach and back bend, road/hybrid/mountain, shocks, ride a bunch and budget for some Continental folding road tires for when it's nice out. <S> Thin tires and wheels can cut into the snow surprisingly well. <S> I am 5'11 180lbs 37 years old, I dig 56cm race (tight geometry no fender gap) steel frames built with whatever parts and nice hand strung wheels that can be swapped around I have about 3-400 in each of my bikes and they are very reliable and strong. <S> I would avoid carbon as it is expensive, not as durable and everything is odd sizes. <S> Lotta nice parts on Ebay.
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You should know what size seat tube you like, watch craigslist/ebay for 80's steel road bikes, decent enough stuff is usually, $120-400. If snow and ice is a significant part of winter, then consider spending some of the difference on some studded snow tyres, and keep your smoother commuter road tyres for summer. Your budget will determine whether new or used - anything new with a price tag under
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