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Making a small indent/crevice/depression for a ball I am making my own wooden board game. The game pieces have ball-shaped bases. I want them to move around the board and rest in small indentations. Something like this: What kind of tools and techniques should I use? <Q> If using a drill ideally it will be in a drill stand for accuracy and repeatability, or a drill press will be used. <S> Round-nosed router bit: <S> [ Source ] 'Rotary file' or burr for drills: [ Source ] <S> It's a little unconventional but an alternative <S> if using a drill or drill press is to use a ball-headed grinding bit. <S> I use one of these myself on very splinter-prone woods to form a countersink for screw heads: <S> The above image shows the diamond-coated and abrasive stone versions. <S> These will grind wood approximately equally but in general you'll get better durability from the first type. <A> I'd use a forstner drill bit sized smaller than the game balls in a drill press. <S> This will leave a flat bottom hole with a slight pilot hole in the center <S> but I think that would be OK for your intentions. <S> The drill press should have some sort of mechanism to control the depth. <S> If it doesn't, you could have your table low enough so the stroke of the drill press completes at the appropriate hole depth. <S> I used this method to make a marble "game" for my children. <S> Each child starts with three marbles on a board, throughout the course of the day if they misbehave they lose a marble. <S> At the end of they day the need to have one marble to "pay" for dessert. <S> It's a lot of fun for me, I'm not sure they like it too much... <A> There are various ball-end cutters available, but balls or ball-shapes also fit into cylindrical or conical holes (and cylindrical holes with flat or conical bottoms) more easily achieved with a "normal" twist drill bit, a center drill, or a countersink. <S> Depends what you want, or how much function is important .vs. <S> the way one or the other looks. <S> You will want a drill press (or a CNC Router) to maintain consistent depth (the router might also maintain spacing for you.) <A> Perhaps not as cool as the other ideas you could always have this done in two pieces as well. <S> You could do this with two boards and a basic drill. <S> Top board you could drill straight thru. <S> Use some sacrificial wood beneath to reduce tear out. <S> Then glue that to a normal board below to give the overall project some size. <S> Be sure to clean glue that would come out from the holes. <S> This could add a nice appeal if you use two different coloured woods. <S> Only obvious downside is that you would not have curved recesses with this method. <S> Single tool suggestion <S> A traditional approach for this would be to use something like a spoon bit. <S> Image from LeeValley Tools <S> To prove my point the product description from the page.... <S> One, it will bore a hole with a round bottom . <S> This allows maximum possible blind hole depth in a chair leg to receive a stretcher with no chance of a brad point or spur breaking through. <S> If you do plan on using these the minor con about this. <S> Working with them you need to remove the bit to periodically clear debris. <S> This should only be considered a minor hassle. <S> Also, since they have do not have a central spur or point, they can be hard to get properly positioned. <S> With frequent use its not so hard but making a small pilot hole certainly helps. <A> One other option is a simple bowl gouge .
| The usual way to do this I think would be to use the correct bit in a router, but it could also be done using a suitable cutter chucked up in a drill.
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Glue and orientation of 2 sheets of plywood I have 2 pieces of 5-ply birch plywood, and I want to glue them together to create a 10-ply piece. My question is, does it matter which way I orient the two pieces? Should the grain be perpendicular, parallel, or does it not matter? <Q> The layers of plywood are already alternated, this is what gives it its strength and warp resistance. <S> Ideally you would place the layers perpendicular, but I don't think you'd see any negative effects if two of the layers happened to be glued together in the same direction. <A> Per Wikipedia : Plywood is a sheet material manufactured from thin layers or "plies" of wood veneer that are glued together with adjacent layers having their wood grain rotated up to 90 degrees to one another. <S> If you were to shave off each subsequent layer of a piece of Baltic birch plywood, you would undoubtedly find that the plies are oriented 90 degrees to each other. <S> My question is, does it matter which way I orient the two pieces? <S> Absolutely not. <S> Baltic birch plywood is known for its good dimensional stability, which is mostly due to the ply arrangement as discussed. <S> Gluing two separate pieces will not result in any contradiction of grain orientations, thus you will not have any issues with differential shrinkage wanting to pull the piece apart or split it. <A> However there is potentially another issue and that is that with some modern plywood the surface veneers are very thin. <S> I see you've specified that you're using birch plywood but that is a very broad category and the quality can vary widely, some types have these extremely thin face veneers. <S> To maximise the bond between the two pieces of plywood you may want to remove that veneer from the face of both pieces prior to glueing them together. <A> What matters here is what look you need. <S> Like others have said the structural integrity is already in place. <S> With most things you build the grain will look right going a certain way. <S> I have made these mistakes when cutting and used the pieces anyway to find out if really makes a difference. <S> So for strength it does not buy for looks <S> I say it does. <S> What are you making?
| No it doesn't make any significant difference which way you orient the two pieces of plywood. Sides of a shelving unit the grain should be up and down the shelves left and right and so on.
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Why is my dust collector way too loud? I have a 3/4 HP dust collector which uses an induction motor. I bought it on the assumption that the fact that it uses an induction motor means that it shouldn't be too loud, but it sounds like a jet engine. I suspect that the sound is not generated by the motor but rather by the fan. Is there something that can be done to lower the sound coming from the fan? The dust extractor I have is similar to the one in the photo below, but the dust filter is fabric. The layout of the parts is identical, the motor is on top with nothing covering it, the filter and dust bag's location is the same. <Q> These are moderately noisy beasts. <S> The best that can be said for them is that they're less noisy than a shop vacuum, and much less noisy than any of the large tools you're likely to connect to them. <S> More expensive units, with thicker metal components, may be a bit quieter. <S> You can try to reduce resonance in the frame, but anything you try to do to the blower's internals will impede function. <S> The other approach is to turn them on only when needed -- <S> ie, when you'll be wearing hearing protection anyway. <S> Remote controls exist to make that easier, either pushbutton or sensing the current of the cutting tool when it's turned on. <S> The fanciest version, for those who are setting up larger workshops, automatically opens the blast gate(s) for just those tool(s) as well, so the whole dust collection system automagically configures itself as and when needed. <S> (My shop's small enough that I doubt I'll be able to justify permanent ducting.) <A> That roar is really part of the nature of the beast. <S> Some folks tuck their DCs into sound-insulated closets for that very reason, some set up the DC outdoors or in another room. <A> They are loud. <S> Just the way it is. <S> If you try to modify it for sound you reduce the efficacy. <S> The best way is to put it in another room. <S> The closet thing works to. <S> Exhausting it outside helps a little as well.
| Some folks build what amounts to a sound-deadening closet to isolate dust collectors; that's your only hope for anything resembling whisper-quiet operation.
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How do I treat MDF? I recently bought a workbench with a 900x1500x12mm MDF top and it doesn't appear to be sealed. What should I apply to seal the edges from leaking and seal the top from absorbing? Indoor use, subject to humidity. I've been told and read many contradicting advice from being paint ready, requiring primer, do and don't use oil/water based products. None of which have managed to instil any confidence in their advice. I don't care what it looks like, I just want it to not leak glue fumes and resist humidity/light spillages. Preferably for cheap and without requiring sanding. <Q> What should I apply to seal the edges from leaking and seal the top from absorbing? <S> Indoor use, subject to humidity. <S> The moisture in the air is basically a non-issue for MDF, it's only liquid water that you need to be concerned with. <S> On a separate durability issue however, the edges of MDF are fairly friable and prone to damage. <S> If you're OK with your bench taking its licks and showing it <S> that's fine <S> , use it as-is. <S> But many people edge their MDF benchtops with strips of wood (hardwood or softwood, your preference): <S> As I think you can see the MDF in these benches appears to be without a finish. <S> In addition to adding durability to knocks and scrapes solid wood edging strips effectively cover the cut edges of the MDF and hence add quite a bit of water-resistance at the same time. <S> light spillages <S> If you do expect you'll spill water on the bench then it is a good idea to apply a finish. <S> Many people use a traditional workbench finish: a couple of coats of oil (usually BLO or tung oil), but you'll be better off if you use varnish as it is far more waterproofing (and the MDF far more prone to damage from water than the traditional solid wood). <S> Dilute <S> at least the first couple of coats of your varnish by about 1:1 with added spirits to improve penetration, then two full-strength coats if you want very high levels of water-resistance. <A> I always wear a mask when I cut it. <S> I would sand it myself <S> so it would adhere better <S> but you don't have to it <S> just won't look as good. <S> I myself wouldn't paint it as the MDF will stay flat without finishing because it's got all that glue holding it together. <S> I have pieces unfinished laying around for years <S> and it's fine. <S> Some say the formaldehyde is safe and can't leak because of the glue it is in case in. <S> I won't go into that <S> but it is better to be safe then sorry. <A> The simplest finish is to apply a coat or two of paste wax. <S> It requires a fresh coat of wax every year or so.
| I have an assembly bench with a MDF top which I have treated with paste wax and the wax is very good at repelling wood glues and water. Technically you don't have to do anything to it, many people have MDF benchtops with no finish on them.
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How to cut an opening and door out of 3/4" Plywood I want to cut a mostly rectangular hole out of a piece of 3/4" plywood about 21" wide by 32" tall. I would like the corners to be somewhat rounded (about a 1" - 2" radius), and I want to rehang the cut out section back in the main sheet as a door. I know that I could simplify my life by cutting the door and the opening from separate pieces of plywood, but I'd like the grain to match which is why I want to reuse the cutout piece as the door. What is a good way to go about making this cut keeping the straight parts parallel and the rounded parts clean and uniform to reduce the amount of reworking and cleanup needed to finish the job? <Q> There are generally speaking two ways people go about this kind of work these days, using a router or jigsaw. <S> Router <S> With the router you'd use a suitable straight-cutting bit with a bearing guide in conjunction with a template made from thinner material, running the bearing carefully around the inside perimeter of the template while being careful to avoid the router wandering into what will be the door. <S> A good material for the template would be 1/4" (6mm) tempered hardboard, but thinner plywood or even solid wood could be used. <S> The rounded corners of the opening would normally be drilled using a suitable bit, either a Forstner or a flat (spade) bit. <S> Jigsaw Internal jigsaw cuts are normally started in a drilled hole but <S> some guides show a technique where you carefully plunge a suitable saw blade (with the saw running) into the material. <S> With the latter technique in particular I would do some test cutting on scraps of your plywood to refine technique before committing to the final cut. <S> Practice doing the curved cuts would also be advisable. <S> The radiused corners would generally be cut freehand with a jigsaw (working to a marked line obviously) and while you can cut the straight sides freehand as well you're more likely to ensure good results if you create a basic fence setup. <S> At the simplest this would just be four lengths of wood clamped at a suitable distance from the marked lines, this distance being the measurement from the side of the blade to the edge of the jigsaw's baseplate or 'shoe'. <S> In use the baseplate would then be carefully run along the edges of each of the boards to make the straight cuts, again being careful not to drift away from the edges into the door. <S> Note: if both faces of the plywood need to have the best surface possible <S> then it's worth investing in a good blade made specially for clean cutting of plywood. <S> Some blades give a good top surface, others a good bottom, but the best will give good results on both sides of the board (generally these will be reverse-tooth blades , where the teeth face downwards). <A> If the tools in the wonderful answer from Graphus are not available to you two saws would do this for you just as well. <S> regular hand saw keyhole or compass saw <S> (source: globalsources.com ) <S> First the hand saw would be for the long straight cuts and you could switch to the keyhole <S> saw for the curves. <S> The first real problem you have is making the first cuts to fit the saws in. <S> I suppose you could drill in with a small bit (that you are not attached to) and pull it along carefully. <S> I understand that you are looking for nice parallel cuts so this question covers some techniques that should help: When using a hand saw, how do I cut a straight line? <S> I see your door vision a protential issue since you would usually need a nice gap between the door and the frame. <S> Especially over time one the weight of the door and wood settle. <S> I think the trade off of a larger space might be advantageous in this case. <A> Use a hand held circular saw with a guide to cut the straight portions then a jig saw to cut the radius corners, being careful not to run the circular saw ti to the curves. <S> It could all be done with a jig saw and a guide rail for the straight edges, but it would take longer and be more difficult to achieve straight lines.
| A hole-saw could also be used if one of the right size is available.
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Good way to illustrate project / make a template of my small wood phone dock project? (CAD)? I have not done woodworking much before and a friend invited me to build something... I have it all planned out in my head but I don't know what software is available etc for making a good template that my friend can follow... <Q> This is an observation, not a recommendation. <A> I'd say that CAD is not necessarily your best option. <S> Don't get me wrong. <S> CAD is a great thing and learning any CAD software will be a very handy thing to have up your sleeve. <S> I highly recommend learning any CAD software (no matter how limited or advanced) <S> However, there are a few problems: <S> I have not done woodworking much before Think of CAD software as a helper to create (mostly) any 3D geometry. <S> Unless you have some very advanced CAD software, it will not tell you if that geometry makes any sense. <S> You can spend hours creating something, which might be hard or impossible to manufacture. <S> making a good template that my friend can follow... <S> What's possible and what not can be hard to tell. <S> It depends on what material (wood) is available and what tools are available to shape or modify it. <S> Maybe your design is valid, but your friend lacks the right router bit to do it. <S> Chances are that he cannot follow it. <S> my small wood phone dock project Starting with a small project is a great idea! <S> It can be easy to bite off more than one can chew, but with a small project it's easy to finish it. <S> And for a small project, you have to ask yourself if CAD isn't overkill. <S> Here are my suggestions: Design the project with your friend together. <S> Don't sit alone in the basement for 3 months designing something in some CAD program that cannot be manufactured. <S> The important thing is to understand what's possible with wood and what isn't. <S> This way you can understand the important details of your design that make it either hard or easy to make. <S> This depends on what tools and wood are available to your friend, which is why I recommend doing it together with him. <S> Doing the design with your friend allows him to understand you. <S> An ongoing communication is a lot easier to understand than just throwing a technical drawing at somebody "I want this done Tuesday!". <S> (optional) if you want to get into CAD, create a 3D part from the sketches. <S> This is easier for you now, because you know the end result. <S> You are not learning the CAD program and figuring out the design at the same time. <A> Although this approach does not necessarily involve software, it can be helpful: prototype your designs by making full-size or scale models using cardboard or XPS foam (the pink or blue 4'x8' sheets of insulation foam sold at home improvement centers). <S> Foam is easy to work with, cheaper than lumber, and you can even prototype complex joinery. <A> I'm going to go with Sketch up. <S> One <S> it's free and two <S> if you use it a lot and need more options there is an awesome paid version for anything you would need to do. <S> Also there is a site woodgrears from a guy <S> Mathias Wendel who designed something called Big Print program which is just what your looking for. <S> Able to print stuff to scale them glue it to your piece and cut and drill. <S> Check it out <S> he is an awesome woodworker and had a You Tube channel.
| Most woodworkers who do CAD-like renderings these days are using SketchUp; the free version is pretty decent and lots of online tutorials exist. Make simple sketches (on paper or any drawing program) to document what you both agree on.
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I need a critique on my sawing technique When I am using larger hand saws, like my big rip saw, I have a problem when I pull back. The blade "buckles" and flaps back and forth. As a result pulling the blade back through is harder and the blade "skips" back through. These are Western saws to clarify. I had though that I was holding the saw at a slight angle but that was not helping. I wish I could add more details here but I just need to know what I am doing wrong that is causing my saws to flop around. <Q> It may help to extend your index finger along the blade, to help you feel where the force should be going. <S> Do not push down through the cut. <S> For thin-kerf cuts, use a saw that had a stiffening bar along its back, or consider a Japanese-style pull saw. <A> That's part of the nature of Western-pattern saws, unless they're extremely finely tuned - they tend to "flutter" on the return stroke. <S> That's because a thousandth of an inch of misalignment in the kerf triangulates out to a pretty large fraction of an inch at the far tip, so if the saw vibrates within the kerf, the tip will flutter. <S> The best advice I can lend, beyond cleaning off any rust, waxing the blade, and really fine-tuning the saw's set and sharpness, it so touch the side of the blade with the tip of your front hand's index finger on the return stroke. <S> It doesn't take any great pressure, just enough to damp the blade's vibration. <A> I have a problem when I pull back. <S> The blade "buckles" and flaps back and forth. <S> I take this to mean that the far end of the saw (on the opposite side of the cut) flaps back and forth as you saw? <S> It's really all about the application of the force. <S> If you don't apply force in line with the blade, you're going to get odd vibration and movement, and your cuts won't be straight. <S> This is either caused by the kerf closing in on itself due to the wood warping or just friction between the blade and the wood. <S> In the latter case, your saw could have an insufficient amount of set or just needs a quick swipe of lubrication along its length. <S> This friction will set up resonance along the length of the blade when you pull back, hence the wiggling on the far end. <S> As @keshlam says, let the weight of the saw do the work and don't force it down. <S> That will definitely buckle the saw when pushing it through the cut and could contribute to the friction issue I highlighted above. <S> And, as always, make sure your saw is properly sharpened and correctly set for best results. <S> I can't tell you how many times I've had a saw behave badly because I failed to do these two things.
| Also, your saw could be binding in the kerf. Make sure you're applying force in line with the blade; shift your stance as necessary to achieve this. Let the weight of the blade and its motion do the work, whenever possible.
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My jigsaw is terrible at cutting vertically through a simple 2x4 I made some Canexican saw horses for a friend. I liked the design feature that made it so the 2x4 sat in a perfect recess and could be changed out easily. I was cutting the angles with the jigsaw, using a 3 inch blade, and every cut I made was not straight. I measured some of the angles at 10 degrees which is awful. If I just run my jigsaw in the air I can see the blade at the end move about 2 cms. I would have expected that to be normal since nothing is support it out that far. Not sure if that is a factor. The blade I was using was not a fine tooth (8 teeth per inch) so there should have been enough space for dust to get out. I really don't think that is the issue since the problem starts at the initial cut as supposed to starting straight and getting progressively worse. Speed didn't seem to matter. I started slow and fast (to attempt to prove a point) and the results were the same. My jigsaw is a cheap Jobmate one that has served me well for sheet goods but I just cant use it for this reliably. What I am doing wrong or it is possible my tool or blade are at fault here? <Q> They are far better at cutting through thinner board materials, though even then you may struggle to get a fully straight cut. <S> As you say, nothing supports the blade at the end so it can easily wander off of its intended course. <S> A more expensive jigsaw may have better rollers/support for the blade though so that might help, but if you're going to be buying a new tool for this kind of job then I'd probably recommend a skillsaw or a chopsaw / mitresaw. <A> If the blade is not exactly in line and you move the saw exactly in line it might wander off. <S> Try it like this: Take a piece of plywood or other cheap material, between half a meter and a meter in length. <S> ( 2 feet plus/minus however many centimetres you like ). <S> Then clamp a straight piece of something to said wooden piece. <S> Run the jigsay against the straight piece and saw away. <S> If the blade is out of line it will bend and wander to the side. <A> I was thinking about LosManos's answer and my comments about my wandering blade. <S> A better variation of his idea for a fence would be to make a "track board" (small piece of plywood or sheet good) and cut a straight line through it. <S> It does not have to be long just enough to get the cut started. <S> Use that on the bottom, with clamps, of the piece that is actually being cut. <S> Have it stick out at least the blades width so that it will guide while the cut is being made. <S> Assuming the blade is long enough it should get the cut started vertically without bouncing of the guide track / board. <S> Once the cut is started then it should remain straight. <S> I think my jigsaw is just cheap. <S> Like Graphus said I could have just used a saw but maybe this and LosManos's answer can make my jigsaw just a little more useful. <A> Ya cutting 2x material with a jig saw requires a good powerful jig and a nice long blade . <S> Good rule of thumb is 3 teeth of your saw blade cutting the wood at all times, so to do this your best bet is to use a circular saw, jigsaw is best for your sheet goods. <S> Circular saw is by far the most versitile saw u can own. <S> u can even cut curves in sheet goods with a circular saw. <S> With a circ and a jig you wont run into many projects you cant figure out.
| Really, jigsaws are not the best tool for this job.
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Gluing plywood to plywood for doll's house floor I am making a small doll's house for my daughter. This is my first project; I am a total beginner at woodworking, basically what I know is remembered from watching my dad 30 years ago :) It's going pretty well, I have cut the panels, and even managed to get some perfect rectangles cut for windows; however when cutting them I noticed that of course, the plywood delaminates very easily - in fact much more easily that I expected. A front view of what I was planning to do: So I plan to make the base and main ceiling out of pine so I could screw into it for strength, however the floor was just going to be plywood glued, along with some mouldings as batons to increase the surface area along the side. Will this design be strong enough for the interior floor just with the glue? I know that the glue is stronger than the wood; my concern is that the top layer of plywood and glue will peel off and the floor will collapse if she bangs around too much (she's two and a half). (There will be a back as well of course.) Matt mentioned dimensions may be important: It will be ~22cm x 34cm x 22cm (w x h x d) The plywood is 8mm thick; the pine is 15mm. The plywood is basically offcuts from my father in law, so is in "been knocking around the workshop" condition. Clean but a bit flaky. The plywood has a paper thin veneer on one side in a reddish looking wood. I should have mentioned this actually, although I can just use the other side. I assume this was done for appearance - it is literally paper thin and flakes as soon as you bring a tool into the same room. I presume I should avoid gluing to this side altogether? <Q> This would very much depend on the quality of your plywood which sounds questionable. <S> You also don't mention the thickness which would play a role here as well. <S> The overall dimensions of the project are not shown either. <S> This is a dollhouse after all <S> so I can't imagine its size would be a huge factor. <S> For screwing onto the base: That should be fine. <S> If you wanted to make it stronger gluing it as well would help as well as make sure you screw into face grain and not end grain. <S> However you could consider making a dado (slot) for the floor to slide into. <S> Looking at designs online <S> I see your ideas in play. <S> The picture below has at least the back is for sure plywood <S> and you can see glue on the joint for the roof in the upper right. <S> Notice the partitions on the floors that add strength in the middle of the floors. <S> Looking at the cut windows we can see that the whole design is just plywood and it is not a stretch to assume it is just glue holding the thing together. <A> I know that the glue is stronger than the wood; Just to clarify something on this point, while this is widely said it's a little misleading. <S> A well-made glue joint is stronger than the wood itself, but not actually the glue itself. <S> It's important to make the distinction because even unconsciously believing the glue is inherently strong can lead to an "it'll do" attitude to creating tight joints, which will most definitely have an impact on strength. <S> Note that this refers to conventional wood glues (PVA type), as well as polyurethane adhesives. <S> Epoxies are different, and can give strong joints where the fit is loose because they have good gap-filling properties (especially if filled slightly). <S> the floor was just going to be plywood glued, along with some mouldings as batons to increase the surface area along the side. <S> Will this design be strong enough for the interior floor just with the glue? <S> Yes it should be. <S> Even thought this is not a critical structure in terms of having to take weight <S> I wouldn't want to trust a glued butt joint for the plywood shelf, however, glueing in the proposed mouldings underneath will add a great deal of strength. <S> The plywood has a paper thin veneer on one side in a reddish looking wood. <S> ... <S> I presume I should avoid gluing to this side altogether? <S> I refer to this in another Answer , and yes I think ideally you wouldn't want to glue to this. <S> It's not just that it's very thin, it seems far too friable to trust for any important bond since you can often flake it from the next ply using only your fingernails. <S> Re. <S> the dados highlighted by Matt already, these are called housing joints in the UK <S> and I think other parts of the world that don't use American English so you might want to add that to your list of things to Google for to widen the scope of information you can find. <A> There's an indirect question in here about the quality of plywood that I think is worth discussing. <S> Plywood comes in all types and quality levels, both from a finish perspective as well as overall strength. <S> Most plywood, especially what you would find at a local home improvement store is intended for construction. <S> Frequently this material contains voids at certain points throughout the layers. <S> Because the material is not visible, the exposed layers aren't chosen for cosmetic properties. <S> Quality varies by price and the cheaper stuff is used for things like temporary fences or covering a broken window. <S> Higher quality material would be used for things like sub-floors or sheathing. <S> Baltic birch is one specific type of plywood that is frequently used in woodworking. <S> This product should not contain any voids between layers so it is a much more solid product overall. <S> It also takes well to rounded corners and chamfers. <S> Usually at least one veneer face is suitable for finishing, and the higher end product (most expensive) will have high quality veneers on both sides. <S> You should not have problems with thin layers sepearting when using Baltic birch. <S> Definitely make sure that you are using the right product for the job.
| For the middle panel as long as you make a support for the plywood to rest on I imagine it would be fine.
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Methods of jointing without a jointer I can't afford a jointer right now, and I am wondering, what are the tricks to getting a good joint(on the edges, not on the surface)? What I have tried in the past is simply nailing a straight board to the board I want to cut, and running the straight board along the fence of my table saw. I made sure to hold the straight edge firmly against the fence at the point just before the blade, and having a catcher helped as well. <Q> What I have tried in the past is simply nailing a straight board to the board I want to cut <S> In essence that's a very good method to do it, and will even work even if the board you're working has very uneven edges, e.g. a live edge (UK: waney edge). <S> I would recommend you not use nails ideally, you can hold the board securely without having to mark it. <S> Below are a few options. <S> Table saw Additionally, you can use the mitre slot instead of the existing fence as your straight reference, this may help to reduce the risk of kickback. <S> Router <S> It's a shame you don't have a router as there are many good router-based options for edge jointing and a sharp router bit leaves a particularly good glue surface for a power tool. <S> Here's one simple and effective design: <S> [Source: ShopNotes #8] <S> Handtools <S> This is of course doable just with hand tools, as that is how boards made flat, square and true in the past. <S> Traditionally a jointer would be used for this as its name would suggest (although they were also called try planes or trying planes). <S> You can do this with a no. 4 or smoothing plane, but at only about 9" / 23cm long it's a little too short to do the job as effectively as one would like <S> — a shorter plane can more easily ride up and down over irregularities rather than skating over the top of them as preferred. <S> When jointing edges by hand, in addition to the physical planing work it's important to first mark out your boards <S> well, on both faces and both ends, and then work down to your line. <S> Even with marked/gauged lines to work to planing long board edges flat and square to the face is fairly challenging. <S> So over the years various jigs and fence systems have been devised, especially to help less-experienced plane users do the job. <S> One particularly good solution is shown below, starting with just a common block plane. <S> By effectively extending its bed length with the infeed and outfeed 'tables' it gives a true jointing effect, even though the plane at the heart of it is a mere 6" / 15cm long. <S> [Source: ShopNotes #19] <A> If you planks wiggle on your table saw, use your handheld instead. <S> It is the same idea as you have already presented, but upside down. <A> In my experience, if you want a glue-able joint, a table saw cannot do it. <S> There is too much 'wiggle' when pushing the wood through. <S> A high end cabinet saw with a large carriage and a very good blade might manage it, but my table saw and certainly any portable shop saw <S> just do not have the ability. <S> So, not being able to (yet) by a joiner you will need to go the old fashioned route. <S> A hand plane. <S> My recommendation is to get the longest one (in relation to your boards) that you can afford (find in your shop) and use that. <S> The reason for the longer the sole, the easier it will be to make flat over a longer board. <S> a 2' board can be a pretty small plane, an 8' board could use a longer one. <S> The hand plane will need a bit more practice than a joiner <S> but it is significantly cheaper (assuming to don't ruin lots of wood...) <A> The simplest method is with an edge guide made of 1/2 plywood clamped to the piece or screwed to the piece and a skill saw. <S> Measure the distance between the blade and the outside edge of the skill saw foot and the inside of the blade. <S> Put the edge of the guide that distance back from where you want to cut and have at it. <S> Just let the saw cut don't push it, use a steady hand.
| Most reading I've done has suggested planing/joining any cut on a table saw to make a nice surface to glue.
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Taking apart a wood cabinet that has been glued together with Gorilla Glue Is there away to take apart a wood cabinet that has been glued together with Gorilla Glue without destroying the wood? <Q> Gorilla Glue is a polyurethane-based adhesive. <S> As such, you might be able to use a solvent that dissolves polyurethane to try to break down the adhesive and remove the glue. <S> Likely you will have to let it sit and constantly reapply the solvent to get the polyurethane to break down. <S> We just had a Question about storing solvents that you will find helpful in determining what might dissolve your Gorilla Glue. <S> methyl alcohol (only drink it if you want to go blind) <S> lacquer thinner Related Question on DIY.SE Related question on Amazon Askville <A> Dissolving gorilla glue is not easy. <S> Paint stripper methylene chloride is the only chemical that will do it. <S> You need to take a clean sharp paint scraper and wedge it slightly in the joint. <S> Place a little MC in the space and work at it slowly. <S> GLOVES. <S> MC resistant gloves. <S> Playtex melts. <S> Tap squirt massage pat squirt. <S> Go slowly. <S> then a coating of MC and wash with laundry soap and hot water with SS brush. <A> Good Luck. <S> Traditionally, woodworkers used hide glue, which could be softened with heat and moisture. <S> Some modern glues, though less cooperative, can be persuaded to do likewise. <S> My admittedly minimal understanding is that Gorilla may not be one of these. <A> caustic (ie, vs solvent-based) finish stripper may work, if you can get it to penetrate into the joints. <S> Gorilla glue crosslinks as it cures, meaning that what was once many molecules is now one giant one... <S> it can't be dissolved, it has to be broken. <S> Caustic stuff like drano, oven cleaner, or caustic stripper should work, but getting it to penetrate will be tough/impossible without damaging the wood... <S> good luck!
| Some solvents that may work are: ethyl alcohol (the kind you can drink)
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Good way to sand wide curved faces I'm working on a project that has a piece of curved (concave) crotch walnut. The curve is in three dimensions and is roughly 8"x6" in x-y and curves inwards roughly .5" in the z axis. I used a spokeshave to get down to the final shape, but due to the grain direction of the crotch walnut it was very difficult for me to get a perfect surface finish. That leads me to sanding. What's a good way to sand a surface like this? Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique. I need grits down to 120 or so (a few light tool marks left that I can't get rid of with the spokeshave). I was thinking that an interface pad to my orbital sander might work, but I'm concerned that the paper will fold and effectively sand some places, but not others. Google shows tons of results for flexible sanding sponges, but I can't make heads from tails from all the different options. Several appear to be made of different materials than the sand paper I'm used to and are rated "coarse" or "fine", but don't state grit. I'm sure there is some subjectivity here, but I'm curious what the pros/cons of the different options are. <Q> I'm working on a project that has a piece of curved (concave) crotch walnut... <S> due to the grain direction of the crotch walnut it was very difficult for me to get a perfect surface finish. <S> Instead of sanding, I would suggest using a curved scraper. <S> When properly sharpened, they work very well on weird grain directions and leave an almost polished surface behind. <S> Lee Valley (among other places) sells scrapers like this that would fit your bill. <S> You can also make them out of old hand saw blades and file them to the profile you need. <S> Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique. <S> Not necessarily. <S> If you're trying to get a true, flat surface then yes, backing sandpaper with your fingers is not a good idea. <S> However, for your case it will work fine since you're trying to get into a spot that "normal" sanding techniques can't get into. <S> If you want to avoid the subtle dishes that can occure from using your fingers (or keep your fingers from getting too hot), you can put a piece of leather between your fingers and the sandpaper to spread the force out more evenly. <S> I was thinking that an interface pad to my orbital sander might work, but I'm concerned that the paper will fold and effectively sand some places, but not others. <S> You might consider buying or making a sanding ball. <S> These can be quite effective. <A> Obviously I can just back the sandpaper with my fingers, but I was taught that this is poor technique. <S> It is poor technique, until it's not. <S> This is an ideal situation for when sanding with your palm/fingers is a good solution — <S> one of the great things about the hand is that while not exactly infinitely adjustable it is multi-conformable, capable of sanding concavities as well as convexities. <S> I would however urge you to try scraping as the first port of call; and not just here, as a general principle. <S> A well-sharpened scraper* is nearly unbelievably faster than abrasive paper, doing the job that rounds of sanding would do — 80, 100, 150 — but in a single operation. <S> And in a fraction of the time. <S> Perhaps best of all, little or no dust! <S> You're almost certainly going to want to do some sanding afterwards (despite their reputation for producing a finish-ready surface <S> it's very common, if not typical, to lightly sand after using a scraper) <S> but it should require a minimal amount using only the final grit you'd use prior to applying the chosen finish. <S> *Note that scraping can be done with two types of edge and work effectively. <S> The first is the conventional burr, the second is the knife edge. <S> The burr is usually turned with a burnisher but see this previous Answer for a quick thing about heretical sharpening, as well as other info on scraper use. <A> These would conform to the existing shape better if that is something important. <S> These might be too big for your surface but perhaps a dremel attachment exists. <S> On the off chance your curves are more uniform you could get away with a flap wheel that was the same diameter. <S> (source: mig-welding.co.uk )
| If your curves are not perfect circles, which they don't seem to be from your use of the word wide, then I would suggest a sanding star .
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I wonder how this alternating stain effect is made I saw this example in a how-to page of sashco company !. I'm wondering how all the samples have a lighter and darker shade. Is it a double applying of the same product on it's right side? And how can I apply a similar transition on a piece of wood. Is it sufficient to tape it off, is this why it has a dark line like if it had a cut. What kind of tape to use then? <Q> I'm with Sashco, the company who posted that picture. <S> Yes, the prepped sections were taped off in order to clearly mark where the different prep methods were done. <S> After all prep was done, a very narrow groove was cut into the wood before the new stain section to help delineate it a bit more. <S> All of the logs start on the far left with sun-damaged wood with existing stain on it. <S> In addition, all logs on the far right show two heavy coats of the same exact stain in the same color applied by brush. <S> All work was done on a single log wall. <S> The prep is what happens in between and what makes all the difference on the final appearance. <S> From top to bottom, the prep methods are:1) <S> Media blasting with crushed glass media alone (no finish sanding).2) <S> Media blasted with crushed glass media, followed by finish sanding with Buffy Pads (Sashco version of 3M non-woven pads). <S> You can make out a faint line in between the media blasting and the Buffy pad sanding.3) <S> Power washing, followed by finishing sanding with Osborn brushes. <S> You can make out a faint line between the power washing and the finish sanding.4) <S> Power washing alone (no finish sanding). <S> Our goal was to show log home owners how different prep methods affect the final outcome of their stain. <S> They will often choose to sample the stain on some scrap piece of wood from around the house. <S> When the real home staining starts, after all prep is done and they're now applying stain with a sprayer, they find that the color is much darker than their sample. <S> It's why we wrote that blog post and preach "PROPERLY sample" everywhere. <S> That said, for sure - you can use these different types of wood prep to get the "ombre" stain look that is popular these days. <S> Just don't do it on a full home unless you're really daring and on the cutting edge of log home style. :-) <A> If you were to dunk the end into the finish, allow it to sit for a short period of time, then pull it out, it would provide the nice even line you see. <S> Allow the excess to drain off, then do the next piece. <S> There wouldn't be too much of a difference in the level of the finish, so each piece would have roughly the same amount of finish on the end. <S> Then let it dry and do the other end with a different finish. <S> The center on some of the pieces looks like it has a different finish ... <S> the top two pieces looking like they don't have any finish at all (natural). <S> The same process could be used on the bottom two pieces with different levels of finish. <S> Best part is, no tape required. <S> You'd probably find that with tape, the finish would bleed under it anyway because of capillary draw of the wood. <S> The "cut" on the right side of the wood looks exactly like that ... a cut. <S> Something which was applied after or before. <S> If done before, it could have been a reference line to dunk the wood down to in the finish. <A> Their website says: Different Wood Prep Methods <S> Not only does the type of wood affect how the stain will appear, <S> different preparation and application methods will affect the final result. <S> Power washed logs, hand-sanded logs, and media blasted logs will all soak up the stain differently. <S> The image below illustrates how wood prep affects the final stain. <S> From the top: Media blasted logs (no finish sanding) <S> Media blasted logs, finish sanded with Buffy Pads <S> Power washed logs, finish sanded with Osborn <S> ®brushes Power washed logs (no finish sanding) <S> So what they're demonstrating is something any good woodworker discovers: if you're staining, sanding to an excessively fine grit can actually reduce how much stain the wood absorbs. <S> I don't know whether these were dunked; masking can produce a pretty sharp lins, and the apparent cut toward the right end of each log would help keep the dark stain from bleeding pas that point. <S> Yes, I believe this is showing at least two different finishes at the two ends, with unfinished to compare it to. <S> I'm saying "at least" because the third down has another clearly visible line at the middle. <S> I can't account for that unless they were also showing sanded vs. unsanded or something like that. <S> When in doubt about how an effect was achieved, the best place to start is usually the folks who produced that piece, if you can find them. <S> Companies in particular like to know people are looking at their websites!
| It looks to me as though whomever did this just stuck the end of the piece into a can of finish, one end at a time.
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Are there alternative tools to a straight ironing rasp (or why are they so hard to find)? I'm looking for a tool to smooth/flatten down a surface in a rectangular channel in the center of a piece of wood (I constructed the piece by gluing two halves together, but stupidly didn't clean the channel halves well prior to gluing). The channel measures ~1" wide x 2" long x 8" deep (you can think of it as an 8" deep mortise). It's roughly square, but needs a lot of help. Only one surface actually needs to be flat/smooth. The best tool that comes to mind for the job is a file or rasp, but I need the handle offset so that it can actually get in the channel (the piece's construction is such that without an offset handle I wouldn't be able to put the face of the tool against the surface of the wood). Alternatively if there were a way for me to sand inside the channel that would work too, but I'm unfamiliar with any way to get sand paper in a channel that deep/narrow. After a ton of searching for things like "crank necked rasp" and "offset handle file" I finally learned that there is a name for what I think is my dream tool: straight ironing rasp. This, for example, looks great: It's pretty pricey and ships from Europe. There seem to be tons of curved ironing rasps available from many of the usual online stores in the US, but very few straight options. So far this is the only one I'm able to find. This link implies that Auriou used to make a straight one, but now I can't seem to find it anywhere. Am I missing something here? Why are there so few of these tools? Does it go by a more common name that I'm just unaware of? <Q> Yeah, files/rasps with offset handles are very specialised. <S> I don't think I've seen one in the wild ever ; I know of them only from old books and from tool catalogues. <S> It requires a relatively minor job of annealing and bending at the tang end, but there is some risk of losing temper near the business end of the tool <S> so I'd be hesitant to try it unless I had no other choice. <S> I think that the best solution here is a type of hand router. <S> More detail given in the YouTube video the above image is taken from. <A> It's roughly square, but needs a lot of help. <S> Paring Chisel <S> My first thought for this was a paring chisel. <S> Especially if one of the surfaces needs to be flat and smooth. <S> Paring chisels are designed for clean long cuts and are not meant to be struck. <S> Instead you could stand over the channel an push the chisel down with your body weight. <S> The tools length would help keep the channel square. <S> Those chisels are designed with length in mind so finding one that is at least 8 inches long shouldn't be too hard. <S> If you have never used one before test on another piece. <S> These are not inherently hard to use but the ease of work can depend on your wood species. <S> Image from WkFineTools <S> The rasp blade you have picture would not make for a smooth surface. <S> If it was like a cabinet rasp that would be better. <S> Much like Graphus <S> I have not seen handles rasps with necks like that. <S> Given that my presumption was partial wrong about the work piece I can offer another suggestion. <S> Perhaps a swan neck mortise chisel? <S> Really depends on the angle you need. <S> One primary purpose is to clean the bottom of mortises but the curved head might still be useful. <S> I think it would be harder for this one to get a clean surface <S> but if you are careful it could still work. <S> I have an even better suggestion after that though..... <S> Cranked neck paring chisel <S> Even better though is I found that they make cranked neck paring chisels as well. <S> They can also be called cranked shaft paring chisels. <S> Image from woodworkingshows <A> A simple, effective and less expensive option would be to glue various grits of sandpaper to appropriately shaped wood blocks. <S> If you need off set as in the case of the crank neck chisel, a handle could easily be fashioned from a variety of materials and attached. <S> Another way would be to make the tool from a single piece of wood, appropriately shaped with a flat for the sandpaper and curving up into a handle. <S> It's completely customizable and readily available. <S> No fussing with the wait time and expense of a tool <S> you are likely to use very rarely. <A> I'm looking for a tool to smooth/flatten down a surface in a rectangular channel in the center of a piece of wood <S> You might consider using a planemaker's float : <S> but I need the handle offset so that it can actually get in the channel <S> Or, if you need the swan neck on the tool, a face float <S> would work too: <S> These are similar to files, but the teeth are much larger and triangular-shaped (similar to what a saw would look like if it was much thicker). <S> Planemaker's floats were traditionally used by wooden plane makers to flatten the part of the plane where the iron beds and to flatten other parts of the plane a regular chisel couldn't. <S> Face floats are useful for cleaning up tenon cheeks . <S> They would be suitable for your use given the needs you stated in your Question. <S> The couple of links I provided were for Lie-Nielsen versions of these products - and they come with a pretty hefty price tag (as to most LN tools). <S> However, it is simple enough to make these yourself if you have access to tool steel, triangular files, a means to heat/harden/temper steel, and patience. <S> The heat treatment may be unnecessary according to some people, but it will make the edges last longer. <S> The nice thing about making them yourself is you can make them as long as you need. <S> Edit: <S> Why are there so few of these tools? <S> I assume for the general capitalist pig-dog reason - no/little demand. <S> If you haven't noticed, machine-made rasps these days leave a lot to be desired. <S> Companies like Auriou and Liogier are the only ones I know of that do hand-stitched rasps, and every review I've read is that they cut like a dream compared to machine-made rasps. <S> With the overhead that goes into tooling for making the different tools, having special tooling for a rasp that rarely gets bought (I assume your ironing rasp falls into this category) makes no economic sense. <A> Another option: Crank Neck Flat Bastard File Not unlike the rasp you found, but not pricey, can be ordered domestically, and probably produces a smoother surface.
| You can buy a number of types and there are a few basic types that can be made in the shop, but the chisel router AKA "poor man's router" might be just the ticket since they're so simple: you just need a piece of wood (and even pine will do), a chisel and a suitable drill bit to make one. You can in theory form your own cranked-handle file or rasp from a standard one. If your recess is actually 1 inch wide then using a 1 inch paring chisel would be the best choice.
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Tips for planing huge panels of joined wood Somewhat akin to the purpose behind this question ( Recommendation for manual planing and sanding ), I am seeking advice from some experts that would help a hobbyist such as myself trying to manufacture large panels of wood made by joining together (mostly by glue - no fancy biscuit, dovetails, or dowel joints). I even ran into problems when I had access to a decent variety of equipment at a hobby wood shop, when the thickness planers feed width was smaller than the width of the panel I was trying to prepare. Since I figure cabinet makers make some pretty big armoires and wardrobes, how do you smooth up the glue joints and even up the panels so that they are nice and level? Hand planes (manual and electric) would probably only give excellent results in the hands of the truly skilled. Are the thickness planers and hand tools described in both the question and answers in the linked question above really the only options? <Q> Find a local cabinet shop or woodworking store that has a wide belt sander. <S> My local hardwood supplier will run panels through their 50" wide sander for just a few bucks. <S> My planer will handle a 13" wide board. <S> If I need a large panel, I'll do the minimal amount of planing possible on the raw boards, then glue them into sub-panels less than 13". <S> Once those are together and planed flat, I'll join them into my final panel, use a hand plane to get it close, then take the panel in and with just a few passes through the belt sander, it is perfect. <A> I do some guitar building, and guitars happen to be just wider than standard planers. <S> So, I build a planer sled for my router. <S> Depending on your overall width, this could be useful for you. <S> some pictures of my set up Flat plywood, with 2 square rails. <S> Then I attached my router to a sled of plywood that is reinforced for stability. <S> I was using a 1/2" bit, but there are wider bits that may be more suited to the task. <S> Planing in process. <S> Admittedly, I was removing a lot more material than you likely are. <A> Get the wood lined up really well by using cauls to keep the faces in line, and a very sharp scraper to remove the glue lines. <S> Scrapers are great at removing glue and planer marks (wash boarding) on smaller projects, it is labor intensive and the results are great.
| I have used cabinet scraper in situations like this.
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How can I create a sturdy walking cane I've read a little and I see that butcher blocks are really sturdy, but they only seem to be used for flat surfaces, can I somehow adapt the technique for walking cane. eg. make a dozen cylinder and glued them on top of each other ? That would probably be pretty strong in the up-down axis (assuming the cane is standing up) what if I wanted to reinforce it so that it can't bend as easily ? EDIT: I'm not looking to get the butcher block look or even actually make a cane, I'm looking into techniques to reinforce objects of that shape aka long, curved and thin pieces. For example, an "S". <Q> If you are looking for a way to get the butcher block effect in a cane (ie: stacked dowel blocks), the best way to accomplish this would be to create your dowel parts and drill them through the middle. <S> Then use a threaded rod to hold the pieces together (along with glue) and provide extra strength. <S> You'd have the handle of the cane also held together by the threaded rod, and put a cap at the bottom of the can to protect that end as well. <S> The problem is, while it will add extra strength, it's still not something I'd be throwing any kind of weight onto. <S> You'd be better off in the strength department by creating a laminated piece lengthwise (ie: gluing several long, thin pieces together), then turning it on a lathe to get it round. <S> This would provide the strength you'd need for a can, but I don't think it would give you the look you are thinking of. <A> can I somehow adapt the technique for walking cane. <S> eg. <S> make a dozen cylinder and glued them on top of each other <S> You can, <S> but I wouldn't recommend it. <S> If you just glued cylinders end to end those joints are end grain to end grain, the weakest glue joint. <S> You would need to reinforce the stick through the centre and drilling perfectly central deep holes into end grain isn't just difficult, it can be impossible with some setups — often you'd need to buy a specialist bit for just this type of work, e.g. a spoon bit. <S> It seems a needless complication anyway, since walking sticks of all sorts have traditionally and still are made from single pieces of wood (often saplings or branches) and they have proven strength and resilience. <S> If you decide you want to go ahead with your glued-up cane regardless, a good idea for the central reinforcement would be fibreglass or carbon-fibre rod. <S> A simple hardwood dowel may be sufficient, but these would be stronger. <S> I'm not certain you can easily buy them in the length you would require, but these are sold for example to make arrow shafts, as well as for fishing poles to give an idea of two possible sources. <A> There are 2 ways I know of to keep wood strong, or make it strong when it comes to thin pieces or curves, Steam bending or laminating thin layers just like plywood. <S> Like another post, I have used all-thread to reinforce wood floor vents I custom made for a floor install which was a lot of thin strips glued up to make slotted grills. <S> I do understand you do not wish to make canes, but steam bending is one of the ways the curve is made on canes. <S> Heat can be used too, but perhaps that is with green wood. <A> A classic cane is either carved from a single piece of wood, or several pieces connected with double-ended screws or similar hardware. <S> Long-grain wood is quite strong enough by itself for this application, as anyone who has used a fallen branch as a walking stick can attest; crutches, which take more weight than a cane typically does, are also just wood (though typically thicker). <S> Those areas are often reinforced with metal bands. <S> The simplest way to do that is to turn the wood just barely small enough to force into a short length of tubing; if you look for instructions on making tool handles you'll find detailed instructions for that step. <S> However, you've admitted that what you want to make isn't really a cane. <S> If you told us what you are really trying to do, and why you don't think hardwood can be strong enough, we might be able to give you more specific advice.
| A cane's weakest points tend to be either its ends or those screws fastening pieces together.
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Passing wood through a planer on both sides? Yesterday I jointed, planed, and biscuit cut some boards and am planning on gluing today. I inserted the biscuits and my boards and they seem to be uneven, I made sure the boards were flat on the table when biscuit cutting and was planning on making a final pass through the planer, but now seeing as both sides might be uneven after gluing, can I pass the board through the planer on both sides? I made sure there was enough thickness to cut down in case something like this happened, so I'm not concerned about thickness. Just want to know if it will be equally thickened if I were to pass them through the planer on both sides after they've been glued and dried of course. also, i cant jointer first because after gluing my boards, the width became too big for the machine. <Q> but now seeing as both sides might be uneven after gluing, can I pass the board through the jointer on both sides? <S> Instead of jointing both sides, instead pass one side through the jointer to make it flat. <S> This assumes that your piece is narrow enough to fit through your jointer (if not, please see this related Question on using a planer sled ). <S> For clarity, since you seem to be mixing up machine names, this is an example of a power jointer: (source: Amazon ) With one flat face, you can now put the flat face down on your planer bed and pass it through to flatten the opposite face. <S> Since you already have one flat face to index off of, your planer will cut the opposing face parallel to the flat face. <S> Just want to know if it will be equally thickened if I were to pass them through the jointer on both sides after they've been glued and dried of course. <S> This is because the cutting action of the jointer is controlled by how you feed the piece through, and it's next to impossible to do this accurately by hand. <S> This is why planers exist. <S> Please have a look at some how-to videos on jointing and planing for a more visual explanation. <S> This process can also be done by hand if you have the tools and the patience. <A> Once you've flattened one side, you can flip the work and run it through the planer with the flat side down (no sled required) to flatten the other side and ensure that it's parallel to the first side. <S> The key to the sled is that it provides a flat reference surface. <S> You insert shims between the work and the sled to prevent the planer's feed rollers from pressing the work flat. <A> The question remains why are your surfaces uneven if they passed over the jointer and then with the reference surface created by the jointer on the bed of the planer you should have two flat parallel surfaces. <S> Nonetheless, I would have placed my reference surface down on my bench and clamped it flat before cutting the biscuit slots. <S> I think this would prevent this problem in the future. <S> Planner sleds work well for others. <S> When I build large glueups like table tops I take them to a local shop that has a wide belt sander and have them cleaned up. <S> Depending on the level of finish desired I will hand plane afterwards. <S> Warning: <S> I have been told over and over the the sander leaves abrasives behind that will dull your planes <S> but I have not had that experience. <S> Good luck with your project!
| Running a board through a jointer on opposing faces does not guarantee that the faces will be parallel to each other. A planer sled can be use with a planer to effectively joint (make flat) one side of work that's too wide for your jointer.
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Is this a self-drilling wood screw? I needed to attach two 2x4 as T-joint and was looking to buy self-drilling wood screws to do that. In HomeDepot, I found a box of screws labeled as 'self-cutting' and bought it. But, when I opened the box and looked at the tip of the screws, I found that they had gaps on the threads (like this one ) rather than having a drill bit. The threads are tapered on the tip but remained all the way upto the tip. Can they self-drill? Or, do I need pre-drilling? In HomeDepot, I found that there were many self-drilling screws for metal sheet (for example, metal-to-metal or wood-to-metal) but coundn't find any for wood-to-wood attachment. Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection? <Q> The cutout bit at the tip is specifically made to bite into the wood more effectively. <S> One tip with screws like this: a lot depends on the amount of pressure you're going to be able to apply in the actual screwing-in. <S> If this is something where you can directly press on the driver, then typically you should have no problem with these kind of screws without pre-drilling, as long as you're not screwing a very difficult hardwood. <S> Pine or similar will be no problem. <S> But, on the other hand, if you're screwing these in a weird position where you can't easily apply pressure on the driver, say directly overhead where gravity is fighting you, or a tight fit where you have to use a 90 degree angle bit <S> , you're much better off pre-drilling first <S> if you want your screw to go in straight. <S> I would not use metal screws with wood. <S> Not only are the threads made for metal and not wood, but that gap in the threads towards the top of the screw that you find in wood screws makes the screw hold much better in wood applications. <A> Can they self-drill? <S> Yes, the screw pictured above is indeed self-drilling. <S> The cutout at the tip is what performs the drilling action. <S> The relief in the screw shaft makes an edge which acts like a rotary cutter. <S> Or, do I need pre-drilling? <S> In pine, with enough edge distance for the screw, most likely not. <S> However, pre-drilling a screw is never a bad idea. <S> Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection? <S> You can, but metal screws are generally of a finer thread type than wood screws. <S> Since the grain of steel is much, much tighter and the metal is denser than wood, the threads are more closely spaced to give a better grip. <S> In wood, too-closely spaced threads to not given enough room between the threads to properly bite into the wood grain, leading to a weak screw-to-wood interface. <A> Can they self-drill? <S> Or, do I need pre-drilling? <S> They screws are designed to drill a hole as they go <S> so there is no need to pre-drill. <S> Those gaps that you describe are actually a slot cut through the first few threads (where the screw is tapered) that creates a "one-time" drill bit that creates threaded hole. <S> They work well in softwood, but can be problematic in hardwood. <S> Using them sounds like an excellent way to join your 2x4's. <S> Can I use those metal sheet self-drilling screws for wood-to-wood connection? <S> You can, but you would be better off using the screws that you asked about in your first question. <A> I'm going to disagree a bit with the previous answers and say, "It depends on why you pre-drill." <S> Pre-drilling accomplished three tasks: <S> it makes it easier to 'start' the screw, increasing its 'bite'. <S> it removes material in the space that is to be taken up by the shaft of the screw, thus lowering the odds of splitting the wood. <S> it guides the direction of the screw through the material (Thanks Matt!) <S> While this screw's tip will help the screw "bite", it will not remove any wood that would be removed by drilling, thus you increase your chances of splitting the work. <S> As Matt points out, this screw also will likely not benefit from the directional guidance provided by pre-drilling. <A> Normal "wood screws" are what you describe as self drilling. <S> The bite on the end is not necessary. <S> But, they don't drill per se. <S> They compress the wood, like a nail does. <S> A fresh (not aged) building stud can have a "wood screw" (up to size #8) sunk without having to drill first. <S> The screws are designed for that. <S> Drilling first is better and can let you do more. <S> If you are mounting onto studs in your house, which are not "fresh", you risk: getting stuck splitting hitting too far from the center <S> Drilling the wall, even if not to full depth of the eventual screw, takes a core sample so you know you hit the stud and eases the passage of the screw. <S> The screw you show has a hex head that will stand above the joint. <S> The normal "deck screw" has a bugle head that will sink itself flush. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Lumber-Composites-Decking-Deck-Hardware-Deck-Screws/N-5yc1vZbqmj <A> As others have said, these are self-drilling. <S> However, so long as you're using softer woods and have plenty of wood around your screw I find ordinary screws do fine at self-drilling if you're using a good power screwdriver. <S> The only time I've found a need to pre-drill was redwood for a planter. <S> Even then the screws would self-drill, but just too many couldn't take the force and snapped instead.
| Those are screws that are made to drill their own hole.
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How can I cleanly cut a large circle out of plywood? How can I cut a large (3.5' - 4' in diameter) circle out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood. The preferred method would be one that doesn't leave any holes/marks in the circle's plywood surface. It needs to be as near perfect as possible (shape/edges of the circle). The circle cutout will be used as a table top. The tools that I have at my disposal are: Router, Dremel, circular saw, 10" table saw, 14" band saw, 10" drill press, jigsaw, and a lathe. <Q> How can I cut a large circle out of a 4x8 sheet of plywood? <S> You sound like the perfect candidate for a router circle jig . <S> The one linked is available at Rockler, but they are easy enough to make yourself out of plywood. <S> The preferred method would be one that doesn't leave any holes/marks in the plywood surface. <S> The one pictured uses a pin to keep the jig centered. <S> This will leave a small hole in the plywood that you could either keep on the bottom side (assuming it doesn't go entirely through) or find a way to cover up. <S> Otherwise, you should be able to find a way to affix the circle template to the plywood in a non-marring way, such as using double-sided carpet tape . <S> There are other means to make a large circle, as identified in this related Question . <S> However, in my opinion, none will leave as nice of an edge finish as the router. <A> You can cut a perfect circle top using your table saw. <S> To do this, you will need a jig (a large sheet of plywood with a pin on which the board being cut spins). <S> Cut off corners (on the work piece) to remove large amounts of excess material. <S> The first set of cuts take a square piece to an octagon. <S> Then cut off more corners. <S> Using the jig, you can slowly cut off the excess by spinning the work piece. <S> Here is one example I found showing this technique: Cutting large circles on the table <S> saw If you need to have both sides of the work piece without holes, you can attach it to a sacrificial board using double sided tape. <A> Another option if you want to buy a tool for your Band saw, there are circle cutting jigs . <S> The Carter one can cut circles over 4' in diameter. <S> I have one of these, though I've only used it a couple times. <S> For flat stock it works pretty good, I bought it to cut bowl blanks round. <S> You need to have your band saw tuned up well to get best results. <S> [ [ <A> Pick one according to skill level. <S> Hook it up to your lathe after cutting it down to an octagon or hexadecagon, (squares are unruly,) and use a wide lathe bit to trim down to a penciled circle. <S> Sand to perfect straight edges. <S> Only try this, though, if you are good at lathing. <S> Also, you can put a nail in the middle, hook up a hand- moved power saw to it with a string as you would with drawing a circle, and ever so carefully pull it around the string into a perfect circle. <S> You could also use a little wood and a nail or two to make a compass, which does the same thing. <S> You can pull this with a little less skill using a router. <S> If you're willing to spend any money, you can buy a circle cutting jig or similar device for downwards of 400$. <S> If needed, sacrifice a small piece of wood that holds the pin and is duct-taped on. <S> This can be a piece you cut off to start. <A> If you absolutely want no marks on either side of your workpiece, use a router circle jig as above and make a template. <S> Attach it to your workpiece with double-sided tape and use a pattern bit. <S> Cut close to the line with a jig saw and finish with the pattern bit.
| For a little money, you can put it on a device that spins it into a saw blade until it's perfectly circular with a pin.
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Can 160-year-old wood still have sap? I bought a dining table and it was claimed that the table top was made from reclaimed wood from a 160-year-old Douglas Fir log. The table top is still seeping out sap. Is this even possible from something that is 160 years old? I think I'm being ripped off here. I'd like to hear from your experience/expertise please! <Q> The table top is still sipping out sap. <S> Is this even possible from something that is 160 years old? <S> Sure, it's definitely possible. <S> One might think that over that long of a time, the sap should have dried up a little. <S> If it was kept in a cooler place and brought into somewhere warmer, the sap could start to flow again. <S> made from reclaimed-wood from a 160 years old Douglas Fir log What I would do to "prove" this claim is look closer at the wood itself. <S> If it's supposedly a 160-year-old log, it should be old-growth. <S> If it's old growth Douglas fir, the growth rings should be much closer together than what you would see in new-growth wood. <S> For example, if you go to your local big-box lumberyard and look at a 2x4 stud, you will see very large gaps between the early- and late-wood rings, sometimes as large as 1/4"! <S> This is because new-growth trees tend to grow very fast in their mostly treeless canopy (assuming the area they grew was clear cut), whereas old-growth trees grew very slowly in a canopy choked by other, larger trees. <A> It could be the 'reclaimed bit. <S> By reclaiming the wood, one possibility is that they had to resaw the timbers to boards. <S> It might have started out as 8" x 8" timber or some other large dimension. <S> This is actually quite likely, and the 'new' cuts are now exposing new wood. <S> Even a significant planning to straighten and clean the boards could cause a similar reaction. <S> So just by leaking sap does not preclude it from being old wood. <S> However, I can't guarantee that it IS 160 yo either. <A> My answer is YES old wood has sap.. <S> that's what keeps me going. <S> JK!The reason we dry kiln things is for heat.. not to dry sap particularly but to crystalize it. <S> I understand that pine sap for instance, once 'set' to 150 degrees, will then crystallize on cool down, and will not liquify again, until reaching 151 degrees... <S> This is why commercial dry kilns use high heat; to save on sandpaper as much as to dry wood. <S> Wood will dry in 33 degree weather all day long.. but heat speeds the process and sets the sap. <S> In my experience biulding four dry kilns, a data logging heat treater for fire wood, Doug fir doesn't SET well at all. <S> It is more like it 'attenuates' the sap. <S> We run boards through an IR oven in our flooring line at 200 degrees for about twenty seconds and sap bubbles up through the surface.. <S> it's just what it does. <S> The wood can be very old and still do this.. <S> I cut 300 year old trees burned in fires on my ranch and believe me, they still have sap.
| Sap doesn't just disappear from a piece of wood because it's old.
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Best wood for table saw cross cut jig In particular the fence. The other day I got my sled nicely calibrated and on final screw up it lost its accuracy. I was only using a 18 mm MDF strip for the fence. I was worried it's flex was the problem. So can anyone tell me. The best wood to use for the sled. The best wood for the fence if different Minimum recommended thicknesses for the fence. <Q> Also note that not all ply or MDF is created equal, and the storage conditions where they were bought is a factor too (whether stored dead flat being the main one). <S> Overall I would prefer to use plywood for something like this myself for a couple of reasons, primarily because a mid-range ply is stronger and more resilient than MDF. <S> But that said, many many jigs for table saws have been successfully made from MDF and given reliable service for years after. <S> on final screw up it lost its accuracy <S> I wonder if you weren't using clamps here (or enough of them) to hold the fence firmly in position while the screws were being driver. <S> An additional aid worth considering is a couple of square clamping guides of one kind or another, e.g. something like this: <S> I was only using a 18 mm MDF strip for the fence. <S> That would usually be plenty thick enough. <S> The overall size of the piece could have been a factor, and/or the quality of the MDF. <S> If in doubt laminate it with something to stiffen it up (doesn't have to be another piece of the 18mm MDF, but you can't go too stiff here and the added bulk of another 18mm of thickness on the fence wouldn't normally be a hindrance during use). <S> From your Comment underneath the main Question: I wondered about gluing it. <S> I just wondered if I would be quick enough to adjust it before it set A tip to help with this is to drill clearance and pilot holes for your positioning screws for the fence, with the fence firmly clamped in place and checked for accuracy, then drive all screws home, check for square and then withdraw the screws. <S> This will allow for a very quick (and <S> hopefully still very accurate) fixing of the fence once glue has been applied, with little if any problem of it moving out of alignment due to the lubrication provided by the glue. <S> In case it helps, a previous Answer <S> has some details on how you might construct one of these, requiring minimal work on keeping things square. <A> I use MDF for the base, and either MDF, Ply or Tri for the fence (depending on what's lying around). <S> I don't think it hugely matters what wood you use, but MDF is nice and flat and smooth - a decent quality plywood would probably be the same. <S> 18m is plenty thick enough - you shouldn't see much flexing. <S> Particularly once you've managed to get it glued to the base. <S> What technique are you using when you try and square it? <S> I like to glue, screw in one end, nail at the other, quickly make a few cuts to test (and adjust the nail end via hammer). <S> Once it's square, leave it for 30 minutes to dry and then drive in a few more screws. <A> This is probably largely personal preference, but I like to use baltic birch plywood for my jigs -- including my cross cut sled. <S> Like MDF, plywood is dimensionally stable. <S> But I find plywood holds up better over time.
| As a rule there is no one best material for anything, although for jigs it's almost universal that plywood or MDF are recommended these days for the major elements, but they are not the only options.
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Building a Cabinet with Drawers on a Budget I want to build a cabinet with drawers but I don't have many tools. I have a drill, a square, a level, and some hand saws. Most guides make use of a table saw and dado blades. I'm thinking about buying a Router and Router Table as a substitute to this. Does that make sense? <Q> For dados in larger boards, a router guided by a straight edge clamped square to the board can be easier than a router table. <S> There are a number of good jig designs, depending on how often you're going to cut the same dado, how much alignment you want the jig to do automagically, and so on. <A> (However, that would be tiresome to say the least.) <S> Yes to the router, no to the router table (unless you commit an entire 4x8 sheet to the table), and an additional "yes" to a circular saw with a home-made cutting guide. <S> This picture from woodmagazine.com <S> : They specify 1/2" stock for the guide; if you ever plan to cut down 1-3/4" exterior doors, then you might (depending on the design of your saw) find your cut depth too small. <S> I used 1/4" for the bottom plate and it works well. <S> Additional tools that might improve your life, with my off-the-cuff rating scale of 1-10 in terms of bang for the buck: impact driver (7/10), biscuit joiner (3/10), chop saw (3/10) and pipe clamps (9/10). <A> Yes, I don't have any dado blades, anything I would use them for I use a router for. <S> While for long rabbets the dado can be better, good set up and technique the router can do just as good. <S> The router is also much smaller than a table saw (a good one) and has many other uses as well.
| Properly speaking, you don't need any power tools to build a cabinet.
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How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together for machining? How do I temporarily attach two pieces of wood together, face to face, in a way that's strong enough that I can, say, run it through a saw, but that doesn't leave marks on the wood or get in the way of the tool? For example, let's say I have a piece of wood with jagged edges and I want to temporarily stick it on another piece of wood with a straight edge so I can guide it along a table saw or router fence. Clamps get in the way of the table, and are sometimes hard to position accurately. Wood glue is permanent. Screws and nails leave holes. Two sided tape is thick and squishy (has some play, no good esp. on a router), leaves residue. How can I do this? I have this struggle a lot. <Q> As sketchy as it sounds masking tape and superglue (cyano or CA) can work very well for this type of thing. <S> Many people have relied on types of double-sided tape, carpet tape being particularly favoured for its strong hold, for this sort of job for many years, but the hold can tend to creep with continual strain especially during warmer weather. <S> And as you also mention it can leave a bothersome residue on the wood. <S> What you do is put tape on both pieces and simply superglue the tape together. <S> Shown better than I can describe it in words in this YouTube video from Crimson Custom Guitars. <S> Masking tape is of course purpose-made not to leave residue and the thinner glue layer means it's less subject to creep. <S> And the hold of the superglue is very strong and rigid, but despite this you can pop the two pieces apart with minimal prying. <S> The masking tape then peels from the wood with ease. <S> Something to help with this is to glue a piece of paper in between the two pieces of wood. <S> This is often done with corner blocks to allow conventional clamping of mitres for example. <S> I'm not actually a big fan of this method overall <S> (works best if using hide glue for one thing) <S> but I thought I'd mention the tip. <A> As much as I hate a non-DIY solution for this, a great option is toggle clamps: <S> Although these are more suitable for more permanent jigs, they provide good clamping with minimal interference with the tools you are using to shape the wood. <A> 23 gauge pin nailer! <S> I know it sounds bad and wrong, but it actually works. <S> Next best is hot melt glue, which doesn't squirm like tape and is readily removable. <A> I do guitar joinery,and I'll give you a method that's proven invaluable, and it starts with regular original Titebond glue in the red label. <S> (I don't endorse them or anything, I suppose because they've never endorsed me, either.) <S> Anyway, besides some clamps, the only other necessary element in pulling off this old circus trick is the planning ahead. <S> You'll use minute amounts the size of a pencil eraser or so, applied with a slightly dampened q-tip or an artist's brush, painting these glue dots on one side of the surfaces to be temporarily joined, about a 1/4-inch to a 1/2-inch or so from the seam where the faces meet. <S> You'll only need clamps to apply sufficient pressure for the recommended safe curing time. <S> You get to decide where you can apply enough of those glue dots, perhaps adjusting the locations of some where wood is to be removed. <S> this is to assure that, once cured, they'll hold the two pieces together safely for machining or shaping or carving or whatever. <S> You can complete those operations, and then pry the two pieces apart with any old thin blade, heated in boiling water if you like. <S> Gently push & rock the blade into each (marked) glue spot, and you're home free. <A> Turners tape. <S> It is the same thickness as masking tape, and holds very securely. <S> I use the stuff from Woodcraft . <S> It is fairly expensive, but holds extremely well. <S> Rockler sells something similar. <S> Leaves no residue if removed in a reasonable time frame <S> (I seldom leave it on for more than a day).
| Masking tape and superglue almost completely resolve both issues. Wood glue is permanent. For your example of a waney edge through a tablesaw, there are sled designs that use toggle clamps.
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Can I repair this bent part in my thickness planer? I've just discovered a bent part in my thickness planer and I'm wondering if it's repairable. The part is the slightly orange part, between the blades and the in-feed roller: As well as having a visible kink in it, it now sits so low it blocks wood when trying to feed it through. Can I do anything about this? Maybe bend it to follow the curve of the cutter head? Any help is much appreciated, thanks! <Q> This looks to be the shroud the helps direct woodchips out of the exhaust port. <S> My guess is that it either something got caught on it while you fed it through or something hit it from kickback when you were planing. <S> Use a metal vise (or really any semi-robust piece of metal) as an anvil to hit against. <S> If you don't trust yourself to do this, you might consider taking it to a machinist. <S> They should be able to straighten it out no problem. <S> Otherwise, if you know your make and model, you should be able to contact the manufacturer for a replacement part. <S> Be prepared to pay quite a bit for the part, though. <A> I am guessing it may have been caused by a kickback at some time. <S> Do you have access to another machine to look at? <S> If so, you may be able to straighten it once you know which way to do it. <S> But, I would bet it would damage the machine with the force it would take if it is left installed. <S> A local machine shop with a press might be able to do it at a low cost <A> That is a tricky problem. <S> If you start banging away on something like that it will get less straight rather than more straight. <S> It looks to me like the metal has a natural curve to it. <S> You could try taking it to a blacksmith or somebody who has a power hammer.
| If you're precise enough with a hammer, you should be able to remove the shroud from the planer and beat it back into straightness.
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How do I prevent static on vacuum hoses? Whether sucking up large amounts of sawdust at once or when attached to a tool, static electricity always builds up on my shop vac hoses when the dust passes through. This leads to messes on the hose and other annoyances. It can make emptying the vacuum difficult too. How do I stop this from happening? Can I somehow ground the plastic hose to something? I don't understand electricity enough to know how to do this. <Q> Well, large dust collector systems will somegimes run a bare copper wire from one end of thd ductwork to the other, grounding one end, due to (apparently unnecessary) fear of static-ignited dust explosions; you could try domething like that and see if it helps. <S> Presumably you'd want to use stranded wire for flexibility. <S> Please report back if you find something that works. <A> There are dust collection systems which are built with anti-static features at the collection point, hoses and tools. <S> Festool is an example of such system where the hose and dust extractors work together to prevent static buildup. <S> In this system, there is no wire used but rather the hose itself is capable of conducting electricity since it's made from a "high-carbon plastic", so the tool is grounded via the hose to the extractor, which is then grounded to your electrical system. <A> Worked well until the copper wires gets unwrapped or broken. <S> I have used the wrist bands with an alligator clip attached to electrical conduit. <S> Works but a pain to use. <S> I'm going to get the Rockler hose and see if it works.
| I solved the problem, temporarily, by wrapping the hose in bare copper wire and attaching the wire to the electrical ground for the power cord.
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What size pilot hole should I drill for for a specific size of screw? I am trying to install a safe using 8mm coach screws (legislation dictates this is the minimum required size) into Jarrah . What size pilot holes should I drill? Is there a standard reference chart? I cannot find one. <Q> Less than thread diameter (8mm), minimum inner shaft diameter. <S> The larger you go <S> the easier it'll be to screw in but <S> the less the threads will bite. <S> Go as small as you can muster without splitting the wood. <S> For coach screws in particular, since you wanted a chart, this may give you confidence <S> (this isn't metric but the concepts are the same): <S> Note the depth as well, the pilot hole depth for coach screws should be as long as the straight portion of the shaft, not covering the tapered portion. <S> According to whoever made that diagram, at least. <S> So if you want to go by that chart measure your inner diameter and choose the smallest bit you have that is larger than it <S> , that'll get you about 5%. <S> Of course this is still totally general. <A> This is accurate enough most of the time. <S> You want it to approximately match the core of the screw, and be less than the diameter of the threads. <S> There are actually published guides for screw size and the corresponding bit size, going back to well before metric fasteners were common. <S> But any guide that gives just a single size for each screw gauge is not to be followed as gospel because pilot hole size should vary with wood hardness . <S> Working in a hard wood you want a slightly wider hole than you would working in a softwood, or a soft hardwood. <S> The difficulty here is that it's very difficult to find incrementally different drill bits, at best you'll find 0.5mm increments in metric bits for sale retail and many sets offer full millimetre differences only. <S> So very often you have to make do with as close as you can reasonably get. <S> So, where you're working with a very hard wood like jarrah and have drilled a hole that's a little narrower than ideal one thing that can help in physically driving the screws is to convert one or all of the screws so that they cut threads rather than form them using pressure, see previous Answer . <S> It only takes a few moments to do and makes a huge difference. <S> In addition, you can also try lubricating the screw threads with oil, grease (e.g. Vaseline) soap or wax. <A> I have used a product called Screw-mate from Stanley. <S> It is a one piece bit and countersink for tapered wood screws. <S> Just select the bit that matches your screw size and length and drill a hole that matches the screw. <S> I have no idea what diameter hole is drilled, but it has always produced satisfactory results on the rare occasions that I have resorted to screws for joinery. <S> I did a little web search and found that they are now quite expensive - $20 or more per bit. <S> Even though I bought my few screw-mates long, long ago, I cannot believe that I paid more than one dollar each in the 70's. <S> (I can't believe I would have paid fifty cents each for them.)
| If you can't find an exact guide for the screw in question (see next paragraph about this) you can eyeball the bit size directly against the screw you're using. In particular note that for hardwoods in all cases the pilot hole diameter is roughly 5% larger than the nominal minor shaft diameter.
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Finding the right metal for making a froe They started clearing old ash trees from the lot where I work. There was lots of nice wood there so I took a couple pieces. One in particular a piece of green ash about 17" in diameter. I have been of fan of traditional tools since I started wood working as a hobby. I don't have much in the way of flea markets in my immediate area so I am giving up hope of running into a froe after about 6 months of looking. I recently found out there was a really good junk yard that has all kinds of metals available. So I figured that I should be able to find what I was looking for there. Maybe even get him to help me with shaping it. Problem is that I don't know what we be a good choice. I understand the basic concept of a froe. Long edged blade with a handle. Typically wooden. I think what I need to worry about is Ensuring the blade is straight. That means thickness Able to take and hold a double edge. Smith easy enough that you can create a loop on one end for a handle. (I have no intention of being able to in the near future.) Is the answer just steel? I feel it is steel but wonder, price aside, if there was another option. <Q> Leaf springs from the pick&pull junkyard. <S> Already has an eyelet, reasonably straight, beefy, sharpen-able, ... what's not to like? <S> Heck, just come by my yard and see what you want. <S> (Though from the looks of it, you're 2,928 miles away. <S> Maybe start driving soon.) <A> Leaf springs are made from a wide variety of different steels so there will be no way to know what you are dealing with. <S> Axles are also good steel, although finding rod axles is harder and harder these days. <S> A steel frame or hitch will not be as good because it will just be mild steel. <S> You can judge a steel by using a propane torch on it. <S> If it turns a rainbow of color, that is an indication it is good carbon steel. <S> Any other result is bad. <A> The other answers correctly state that leaf springs make excellent froes, especially if you can find ones with the eyes already attached. <S> However, any kind of steel will work for a froe . <S> The edge isn't used for cutting wood and is only active at the very beginning of the splitting, otherwise it's the wedge that gets the job done. <S> Thus, the steel has no need to hold an edge and therefore it does not need to be hardenable.
| Leaf springs are by far the most popular retrieval from junkyards because they are made from carbon steel and have convenient, simple, useful shape.
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Can I speed up stain drying with a hair dryer? Can I speed up stain drying with a hair dryer or a heat gun? Is there any reason not to? If it matters: In my case Minwax Wood Finish or Varathane brand, oil based, not gel, referring to all coats including first (that's as specific as I want to get for this question). And by "drying" I mean getting it to the point where I can gently handle it without marring the surface or sticking to it, e.g. flipping it over to get the other side, not having dust stick to it (being able to brush it off without wiping off stain) etc. <Q> Is there any reason not to? <S> Hairdryer first: you're unlikely to cause a problem unless you get really close (nozzle only an inch or so/couple of cm from the wood surface) and it fits the bill theoretically, but you'd die of boredom before you see any benefit. <S> You could in theory set up a hairdryer on a stand blowing over the piece and leaving it for a couple of hours <S> but they're not made for that kind of sustained use <S> and I bet you'd burn out the average modern hairdryer in short order. <S> Heat gun: this can easily cause a problem. <S> With the typical temperatures these can generate you could accidentally heat the piece past the point where water will start to be released from the surface wood fibres, and it will literally start to bubble through the finish. <S> I've accidentally done this using a hairdryer (being impatient and speed-curing epoxy fills on finished tool handles) <S> so no question it would be even easier with a heat gun. <S> Where you do see the basic idea applied successfully is using fan heaters. <S> Typically they'd be set up a few feet/a metre or so from the piece and blowing warmed air over it. <S> In cooler weather, particularly if it's not dry, this can make a big difference in the drying of some finishes so it can be well worth experimenting with if you have an unheated shop or working space. <S> Note though that there is quite some risk of the currents of air disturbing sanding dust from some hidden corner and making it airborne, and you can bet it will unerringly find its way to the finished surface. <A> I spent more than a few years needing a faster drying finishing product and found that by adding an agent that was compatible with the finish would always work. <S> For instance, adding a good quality lacquer thinner to any oil based product would help. <S> If it was a water based product, I used either grain or denatured alcohol. <S> Experimentation pays big dividends. <S> For instance, I made my own analyn dies for toys and children's furniture building which requires a non toxic finish which is colorfast. <S> Denatured alcohol worked best there or even a high "proof" grain or even rubbing alcohol (>90%) because all of the dies I used were water soluble. <S> Even when using a vinyl finish, lacquer thinner did a great job, especially if spraying. <S> Hope this helps. <A> Some other options to try: <S> Thin the varnish with an appropriate solvent. <S> Oil-based varnishes usually call for Mineral Spirits whereas water-borne/based finished take water. <S> Not only will this make applying it easier, it will dry a lot faster. <S> The downside is that it requires more coats to build, but those coats can usually be applied with less time between coats. <S> These are already present in most varnishes but adding a very small amount to your mix can help speed things up. <S> You can find these at more home improvement or paint stores. <A> I used my wife's oven to speed up stain and polyurethane finish. <S> Needed to ship wooden yard dice quickly to a customer for a wedding gift. <S> Unforgettably, the finish was not drying fast enough due to snowing/sleeting outside and high <S> humidity in my shop. <S> 12 hours after applying, and the finish was still very tacky and certainly could not be sanded. <S> So, took the dice and placed in my wife's oven at lowest possible temperature of 150 degrees for 20 minutes. <S> Took out of oven and -- presso -- finish was dry. <S> Sanded immediately and shipped on time. <S> You got to LOVE your wife's oven. <A> Unless the piece of wood is a laminated piece, I usually let the sun do the job for me. <S> Sometimes I find that a good heavy coat of stain hides a lot of flaws in the antique pieces I work on ( cup rings, etc.) <S> It's just a matter of time before the stain finally dries, but I have found that if I put a piece in the direct sun on a good warm day it will usually dry good in about 3 hours. <A> From my personal experience....yesterday...DO NOT get the material too hot. <S> There is the obvious flammability of oil based urethanes, but if you place the work in the direct sun to try to dry it, you will, especially on a hot August day, find that the urethane bubbles. <S> I layered up so much to cover this mess that it's gonna take a month to dry and cure. <S> I'll probably scrape it all off, re-sand and refinish. <S> I wanted a thick coat and considered using Envirotex Lite. <S> I read about it on a home bar design site. <S> With Envirotex you can sweep it with a propane torch to quickly remove bubbles. <S> Don't EVER try the torch method with ANY oil based stain, varnish or urethane products.
| Yes if you blow air (especially heated air) over various oil-based finishes they will dry faster. Add a drying agent such as Japanese drier or Cobalt Drier.
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Accurately cutting large (4x8) stock to size I'm making a worktable using pre-laminated melamine on particleboard, and have just finished 'adjusting' the size for the 3rd or so time. The tabletop came slightly over 4x8 (and not at all square). I wanted it slightly smaller than 4x8 and tried to cut a strip off the side and end using a SKIL saw with the fence attachment. The cuts are off by over 1/4" I know some machining, I'm no stranger to working accurately, but for some reason never can cut large stock like this accurately. Whats the best way to cut this? Available Tools: decent quality contractors saw, probably not wide enough for this job, with roller stands and an outfeed table circular saw (SKIL saw) with a fence radial arm saw I'm just wondering how come my work's so inaccurate all the time (which is probably a big kettle of fish) grrr.... <Q> E.g. stick your circular saw on the piece like you're about to start, mark the blade position, check with a tape measure before pulling the trigger and adjust fence to correct. <S> Check again after adjusting. <S> With just a circular saw for cuts like that measure distance from edge of blade (remember, blade is not infinitely thin) to edge of guide, draw a line with a square where you want to cut, move over by the blade-to-guide distance you just measured and draw another line. <S> Clamp a long straight board along that line as a fence and ride the guide up the fence with the circular saw, double checking that the blade edge is at your cut line before you start. <S> If you want, use a framing square to double check that your fence is clamped at 90 degrees before cutting. <S> Also if you have 48" and want 45, measure 45, don't measure 3 and try to cut it off. <S> If your stock isn't square trim both sides like this, squaring each off the same edge . <S> Always pick one edge as a reference edge and square the other 3 off that. <S> Use a straightedge to check your reference edge first, if you want, and if it's not straight, trim it straight. <S> You might find this guide useful. <S> Describes a really simple and useful circular saw guide. <S> Nice thing about that one is it shows you exactly where the blade edge is. <S> If you switch blades to one with a different kerf you might want to make another base (narrower) or run the saw over the guide once after changing (wider) for an accurate edge. <S> Also if you're using a tape measure start from the 1" mark instead of the floppy metal end and remember to subtract 1 when reading. <S> That's not your 1/4" but it can sometimes be 1/32" or so, esp. <S> for cheaper tape measures. <S> but I think a circular saw is an easier tool to work with for this kind of stuff. <A> More of a general comment than an answer: if you are going to use large (4x8) pieces for a project such as the melamine laminate,buy and get the piece cut at Home Depot or a store with a panel cutter, save yourself the hassle of cutting it yourself. <S> If you have to cut it yourself, you have to have a straightedge at least as long as the longest dimension you are cutting, no way around that! <A> Like Jason said a circular saw and a good straight edge. <S> With a good saw and a good quality blade you should be able to split a pencil line if set up right. <S> However things that can throw it off; a dull or incorrect blade can overheat and warp while cutting. <S> Measure from the front and rear of your blade to the table edge to make sure the saw parts have not been bent out of alignment. <S> Also make sure the saw table stays in contact with the straightedge. <S> (Yeah, like what happens when you happen to be standing on the cord, or it gets caught on something.)
| Measure, mark, place fence, measure again before you cut . You could use your table saw if it has enough capacity
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Why can't I shake my can of polyurethane? I was going to ask this question after getting some misleading information from my can of poly, other questions and answers here and from my own experience. What I never understood was why I could not shake the can? The instructions from Minwax's website don't really explain why, but state: Stir Minwax® Fast-Drying Polyurethane before and during use to eliminate settling on the bottom of the can. Stir in such a manner as to rotate the product from the bottom to the top of the can. NEVER SHAKE emphasis mine . Barring spilling the product all over the place; what am I risking if I shake the can? <Q> Apparently it's the bubbles <S> The concern is that the agitation of the can will create bubbles. <S> Brushing poly will transfer those bubbles to the work and there will be a good chance they will dry/cure in place. <S> That would of course ruin the work or extend the finishing process as you would have to sand an reapply. <S> That is sort of right. <S> There is a great article that Graphus linked my too that covers 7 Myths of Polyurethane . <S> No sense copying the entire portion of that post here <S> but the main points are: <S> Bubble creation is inevitable though whether you shake the can or not. <S> Using the brush you are going to create bubbles regardless with agitation. <S> Most bubbles will naturally pop. <S> A recommended step with poly is to lightly brush back (also called tipping-off). <S> That should remove the rest of the bubbles. <S> If you still have bubbles after that you can still lightly wipe something like mineral spirits over the surface to dissolve the bubbles. <S> Used in moderation this will not negatively affect any of the finish work done thus far. <S> Worst case a light sanding with very fine sandpaper (400 or greater) should help. <S> In my experience I would avoid sanding as to not remove too much finish by accident. <S> Rarely would I still expect bubbles at this point). <S> You are going to get bubbles in any event. <S> Does that mean you should run the can of poly in a paint mixer? <S> Probably no. <S> However as long as you know how to deal with the bubbles and clean them before the finish sets you are not going to have any issues. <A> I shook a tin of wood varnish and the lid blew off and hit me in the face. <S> I had a few scary minutes of vigorously washing varnish out of my eyes and off my skin. <S> If it says don't shake, best do as you're told. <A> I have been told that it isn't so much that you get bubbles as Matt said but that the bubbles become much smaller and more of them when shaken, making them more difficult to brush out and before they dry, or set. <S> It is more of a problem with gloss poly because it can make the finish look cloudy. <S> I think it is the same with varnish and shellac. <A> I work for The Home Depot in the paint department, and the cans say STIR, DO NOT SHAKE. <S> Bubbles are the issue, if you don't use a brush. <S> From my personal experience, i have had bubbles either way. <S> It has been true in my experience that if you lightly brush back the bubbles can go away. <S> I have also lightly run across the surface with Mineral Spirits to dissolve the bubbles, and that works. <S> Overall I wouldn't choose to shake an oil based poly, because it creates more bubbles than you'd want, but there are ways around it. <S> I can't tell you how many times i've explained what to do to get the best results from a product, and customers don't listen, and they come back and say "this product didn't work". <S> Just follow the "RECOMMENDED" directions from the product; it's there for a reason, but to each his own.
| It is true that bubbles can cause issues. To get the best results, just follow the directions on the can.
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How to prevent table saw blade vibration gouges? I'm very new to table saws, and am having trouble getting a clean cut. The blade cuts fine most of the time, but every once in a while something goes wrong and I'll get a big gouge in the wood. Here is a picture of what I mean, done on the thinner edge of a 2x4: I've measured the depth of the gouge, and it's 15 thou. That seems really extreme, especially considering how smooth and perfect the rest of the cut is. This kind of gouge makes fine furniture impossible. I know the table saw is correctly aligned; that's the first thing I did when I got it. The fence is parallel to the blade, and the arbor has practically no run-out. A splitter was set-up behind the blade, and the blade I used was brand spanking new. Here's a video of me making the cut shown earlier, so you can see my set-up and feed rate: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mr-1Yj9Ra44 Anyways, from what I can tell, the blade vibrated/wobbled a bit and that's what caused the gouge. I could probably reduce the chance of this happening by cutting in several passes, but when I tried that before I still got the occasional gouge. Any ideas on how I can fix this? <Q> The blade cuts fine most of the time, but every once in a while something goes wrong <S> and I'll get a big gouge in the wood. <S> In my experience, this isn't really a big gouge. <S> When you're running a board through your saw, there are a couple things that could happen: <S> Your hand could slip and not press the wood tight on the fence, making it jump into the blade a bit <S> The wood could relieve some internal tension, pulling itself away from the fence and into the blade. <S> The fence is parallel to the blade, and the arbor has practically no run-out. <S> "Practically no runout" is not "no runout. <S> " <S> I suspect that a little bit of runout is at work here too, in addition to what I highlighted above. <S> Also, if you have a cheap, thin blade, it could be wobbling during the cut. <S> Looking at your video, you have a more "contractor-grade" table saw. <S> These are not truly meant for fine woodworking tasks, so some level of slop is expected. <S> Here's a video of me making the cut shown earlier, so you can see my set-up and feed rate: <S> You seem to be running the board through your saw very slowly. <S> Unless you're cutting a very hard wood (or your blade is very dull), there's no reason to feed that slow. <S> That pine board should be cut in about 3-5 seconds. <S> This kind of gouge makes fine furniture impossible. <S> No, it doesn't. <S> You'll just need an additional step to clean up the gouge when it happens, such as giving it a few swipes with a smoothing plane or sanding it. <S> A fifteen-thou gouge is no big deal. <S> Understand that your table saw will not make a surface that is ready for finishing . <S> The table saw is for breaking down wood into the sizes you need and getting the dimensions correct. <S> You will need to do the final finishing with sandpaper, scraping, planing, etc. <A> I took a long look at my table saw today and was able to find two things wrong: <S> The splitter was too close to the fence. <S> This was causing friction between the board and the fence, making it hard for me to push the board through. <S> This was part of the reason why I was feeding the wood so slowly. <S> The blade was angled very slightly towards the fence. <S> I thought I had it set to exactly 90 degrees, but I was wrong! <S> I've heard that having the blade on a negative angle like this makes kickback more likely, so chances are it makes gouges more likely too. <S> I fixed all of these things, then re-cut the 32 feet I needed. <S> This time, I had the blade raised slightly higher, and I fed at a faster rate. <S> The result? <S> No more 15 thou gouges! <S> The wood is now very smooth and usable. <A> Possible reason: Hard to say but your hands shifted so the wood is not evenly pressured left/right throughout the cut. <S> Possible solution 1: <S> Install a feather board to press hold the wood in place right/left-wise. <S> Possible solution 2: <S> Cut it half a saw blade too thick and do another cut at the exact width. <S> Though the blade might flex then. <A> I agree with @grfrazee for saying that a table saw won't make a surface ready for finishing. <S> I don't know if it's possible for you <S> but in basically any professional joinery shop or similar that I've seen, ripping to size is a rough-cut operation, which is always followed by (at the very least) belt sanding, or more commonly a run to finished size through a planer/thicknesser or moulder. <S> Looking on ebay a thicknesser/jointer can be had for around £200 or possibly less if you go second hand, though I can't attest to how good one would be at that price. <S> An added bonus with a thicknesser is that you can get the finished dimensions of the timber to be very accurate, usually within about 0.05-0.1mm. <A> Any blade over 7" needs to be slightly cupped to compensate for larger blades stretching more at the perifera at working speed. <S> This a crtaft that is nearly lost. <S> because of the habit of replacing dull blades with new ones. <S> Look up an old school blade sharpener in your area and get your blades tension adjusted. <S> http://www.carbideprocessors.com/pages/saw-blades/steel-saw-plate.html <A> Not much to add to all the other great answers <S> but there is one thing I did not see mentioned. <S> When pushing the board through: Don't Stop! <S> That is when it will most likely happen. <S> Everything else mentioned is still relevant, but won't help if you keep stopping and starting. <S> Even if you push it slowly while moving the other hand into place, keeping it moving ensures that it won't dig into any one spot. <S> Careful, if the board moves of the fence it can still dig in, but you won't get that saw imprint.
| One important that is usually overlooked when sharpening a used blade is checking the tensioning.
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Joining partially-overlapping boards into panel A few times, I have seen partially-overlapping horizontal boards, creating a larger panel. For example, I've seen this done on the walls of some wooden houses. I would like to know if there is a joint between these boards, or they are just nailed / glued together. I didn't get the impression a tongue and groove were involved. Alas, I've been unable to find a picture online. Anyone can answer this? <Q> For a long time it was the "go to" siding for wooden houses in the US. <S> Bevel siding was usually made of clear red cedar and came in various widths from as narrow as 4" with about 3" exposed, to 8" or 10" with 7" or 9"exposed. <S> However, it could be one of the others depicted in this diagram from How to Buy Wood Board Siding by Don Vandervort, HomeTips © 1997-2015 ( <S> by the way when you pronounce clapboard the p is normally silent.) <A> A few times, I have seen partially-overlapping horizontal boards, creating a larger panel. <S> For example, I've seen this done on the walls of some wooden houses. <S> I would like to know if there is a joint between these boards, or they are just nailed / glued together. <S> I didn't get the impression a tongue and groove were involved. <S> Without having a picture to go on, I'm going to take a guess as to what kind of joint you're describing. <S> Shiplap Joint source <S> This type of joint has two boards with matching rabbets on opposing faces and was commonly used in (you guessed it) <S> ship hulls. <S> In ship construction, these were normally pegged with trunnels . <S> Often times the "show" side of the joint will have a decorative bead, which helps to hide the joint. <S> I couldn't find a suitable picture of this, but the one below (shaped in a solid piece, so not actually a shiplap) shows the effect. <S> source Splined Joint source <S> These joints use a long spline to reinforce the butt joint and keep the boards aligned. <S> Usually these are glued in place, so it may not be what you're seeing. <S> Also, I doubt a house framer would go to the trouble of splining all the boards for a wall, but you never know. <A> Sounds like you're talking about shiplapped boards. <S> This is done mostly to allow for the fact that boards will expand and shrink across the grain as they gain and lose moisture. <S> If you fastened the boards together, this change in size could add enough to significantly change the size of the panel; if you just put them next to each other then when they shrink there may be visible gaps between them. <S> Shiplapping and fastening the boards only at the center of their long ends permits them to move while never opening a gap. <S> Some styles of shiplapping are decorative as well, and those may further hide the motion by having it occur within a "shadow line". <A> There was an old house where I used to work, built of lap <S> joined boards- <S> vertical boards overlapped at the edges and nailed. <S> The structure was built without framing, and stood for nearly forty years before being torn down.
| It sounds to me like you are describing bevel or clapboard siding. In furniture, they may or may not be glued, depending on how the ends are fixed to the piece.
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Is there a average depth that works best for book shelf? I am planning on building a bookcase and some previous attempts have resulted in shelves that are too deep for most books. Is there a average depth that would work best? For example would a 9 inch deep shelf fit for most books and standard paper (8.5 x 11)? I walked around my existing book collection with a tape measure and determined that 9.5" inches will work for a) paperbacks b) average size other books c) binders. Another possible option would be to query the Library of Congress (via API?) to see what the average/median dimensions are for books in the past 30 years. [Update] I went with a 9.5 inch deep bookcase. This works well for most of my books and optimizes the usage of the 4'x8' sheet of plywood. Note: Cutting 4x8 sheets of 3/4" plywood on a portable tablesaw is very challenging especially when the lumber yard's table saw is broken! <Q> "Most books" is far too broad. <S> Books of what type? <S> Standard paperpacks or oversized ones? <S> Modern hardback novels or vintage/antique books? <S> Even assuming you mean regular paperbacks <S> I don't think an average is the way to look at this. <S> There may be a common, perhaps even typical, shelf depth for a bookcase <S> but I've yet to see it myself, so an average of the various depths that are manufactured might result in a shelf as unsatisfactory (for some books certainly, perhaps even for all books) as your previous builds. <S> Surely the way to approach this is to measure your books and decide the clearance from the front that you like and bingo, you have your perfect depth? <S> All that's needed after that is to build the bookcase accordingly. <A> 12" deep shelves are to deep for most books, again most books. <S> I would make the bookshelf a "breakfront", the 2 lower shelves 12" deep above a 4" base or toespace, and step the front back at the 30-32" height and make the remaining shelves, 8, maybe 10" deep. <A> Depends on your books. <S> The ones I built last time used 1x12's; that's overkill <S> but it does handle some oversized art books and lets me put two rows of paperbacks on a shelf (one upright, another tilted back in front of them). <S> Book sizes might vary by country, but a table of traditional sizes can be found at https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Book_size And note that you want the shelf to be able to handle your larger books, not you average book. <A> Woodbin.com has some good design resources for furniture, check out http://www.woodbin.com/ref/furniture-design/shelves/ <S> they suggest 10-12" deep as a common standard, they also have some good information on how wide vs how thick your shelf stock is, etc. <A> <A> I have book shelves from two European manufactures. <S> One is 12 inches deep and the other in 12.25 inches deep. <S> I think book shelves are built that deep to make it more difficult for them to tip over as the books are usually towards the back and the shelves are against a wall. <S> The suggestion of a break front is a way to have it both ways. <A> I have always used 11 1/2 inches on all bookshelves I have made that are part of a standing bookcase. <S> Over the last 40 years, I have probably made about a dozen different bookcases for family and friends. <S> Sometimes I use hardwood veneer plywood and other times <S> I have used solid hardwood such as Cherry or Walnut. <S> For plywood shelves, I also put a hardwood (matching the veneer) edge on the front of the shelf which is about 1 1/4 inches. <S> This gives the shelf strength to prevent sagging from heavy books. <S> On solid hardwood shelves this is not necessary. <S> I would not go under 11 inches for a shelf though. <S> In the photo below, one of my bookcases, solid Cherry, has shelves 11 1/4 inches deep. <S> In the lower left corner is a boxed set of Calvin & Hobbes Collection and it extends over the shelf by about 1/4 of an inch. <S> Other books on that shelf also come closer to edge. <S> Today that bookshelf is overflowing, I built it about 3 years ago.
| Standard bookshelves are 11 inches deep.
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What type of paint would be suitable in terms of durability? I'm looking for a type of paint that I can use on a small children's desk. The desk is a simple round design with 4 legs. I would like to use a paint that can take a beating. I was thinking of using outdoor paint, like for a house. Is latex based a good choice? Note: I have to use paint rather than a "clear" finish because the recipients want a certain color. Also, I'm using an MDF core plywood so I need something that will cover the edges nicely. <Q> If you are willing to spray a finish, I think the go to would be lacquer. <S> This will provide a hard and durable finish that is frequently used on furniture, cabinets, etc. <S> As for latex or oil, it is really up to you based on what you're comfortable working with. <S> They both have their pros and cons. <S> Latex is definitely easier to clean up and in terms of child friendliness, will put off less VOC's than oil paint will. <S> For added durability you could apply a clear layer of varnish or shellac on top of the paint. <A> I was thinking of using outdoor paint, like for a house. <S> Is latex based a good choice? <S> Yes <S> but you'd probably get better results from a dedicated indoor paint. <S> While paint for outdoor applications seems like it would be toughest much of it is actually formulated to provide flexibility (to deal with the substrate expanding and contracting due to temperature swings and moisture changes) and permeability (to allow the substrate to dry effectively after rain). <S> On the other hand, indoor paints can be made harder/tougher because they emphasise scratch-resistance and don't need to factor in the exposure to water and wide swings of temperature an exterior application calls for. <S> So if you're after maximum durability I would recommend you go with an interior paint specifically formulated for interior trim and/or furniture. <S> Unfortunately the specific product names used across the industry can be very unhelpful here (latex paint being the classic example, since it contains no latex at all!) <S> but if you can find it locally I would recommend an acrylic enamel. <S> Your local paint supplier may be able to help you with a similar product if they don't stock something named exactly that. <A> I think what you are looking for is a lacquer based spray paint. <S> It should be tough and give give you the color you need. <S> It will dry much faster than enamel. <S> Example of colored Lacquer Also Pinterest shows all of the great colors that can be achieved with a hard glossy finish. <S> Lacquered <S> Furniture on Pinterest Don't use latex because it will not be very durable.
| Paint is always an option though will probably not provide as durable of a finish as lacquer.
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What is the best drill bit for MDF? I want to drill holes in MDF of varying thicknesses, laid out to sub millimetre precision. In other words, I need the positioning of the center of the holes to be accurate to within a half millimetre (0.5mm or 0.02 inch) or better. My problem is that I can't decide whether MDF is considered a wood or a grain free composite material. So would it be best to use brad point wood bits with centre punched holes as in woodwork, or HSS bits with pilot holes as in metalwork? Or anything else? <Q> Whenever you are making precisely located holes you should always use a bushing or jig of some type if you can. <S> Of course, making jigs is time consuming. <S> One quick and dirty alternative is to use what is called a "tap guide" which is a block of steel with standard sized holes in it. <S> Get a set of transfer punches and put the fitting punch in the hole you want in the guide and move it around until the punch settles into the center punch divot. <S> Clamp the tap guide to the work and drill. <A> I want to drill holes in MDF of varying thicknesses, laid out to sub millimetre precision. <S> In other words, I need the positioning of the center of the holes to be accurate to within a half millimetre (0.5mm) or better. <S> That's mostly a matter of accurate layout and a starter mark/hole (a single push from an awl can be sufficient) than a call for one particular style of bit. <S> So with regard to your question: So would it be best to use brad point wood bits with centre punched holes as in woodwork, or HSS bits with pilot holes as in metalwork? <S> Yes :-) <S> All bits that you could use, from basic twist bits through brad-point to auger can achieve the required accuracy. <S> I'd add both flat/spade bits and Forstner bits to that list as well, but only if you can use a drill stand or drill press. <S> It's possible to control both with a power drill used freehand, but it requires experience and maybe a bit of luck and as such I would not recommend it where accuracy is paramount. <S> My problem is that I can't decide whether MDF is considered a wood or a grain free composite material. <S> It's closer to the second option here. <S> It's not quite grain free, see previous Question <S> Does MDF have a grain direction? <S> , however it's close enough that it doesn't matter much in practice. <A> I think you would be safe with forsner bits or HSS brad points. <S> Both have the advantage to cut from the outside so as long as you start slow you can reduce tear-out to near zero. <S> Some people use spade bits but they would not be my first choice. <S> If accuracy is important make sure that you clamp down your work and use a drill press. <S> If you only have a hand held drill then follow some of the tips you see in this question to increase your accuracy: <S> How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk? <A> None of the answer provide a satisfactory answer as far as my amateur experience is concerned. <S> I am fitting handles to new kithen cupboards and drawers, where there was no predrilling or marking by the manufacturer. <S> I started off with Irwin jetpoint bits. <S> I think you wold call them bradpoints as they have a spike in the centre of the bit. <S> It went well but <S> after only 6 holes the bit became blunt and burned. <S> The most successful was my HSS bits which I bought to use for drilling through metal. <S> These I would use with a narrower pilot hole as without the spike the bit could wander even with a bradawl induced starter point.
| The brad point is the way to go.
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Drilling a hole in end of spindle What's the best way to drill a hole in the end of a short spindle (maybe 8")? Mine is already turned and does not look like it would be so easy to clamp to. Is there a jig I can make to hold the spindle steady at the drill press? <Q> Is there a jig I can make to hold the spindle steady at the drill press? <S> John Heisz has a good, short video on drilling long stock using a drill press that is worth checking out. <S> Basically, you swing the table of your drill press out of the way and clamp the piece to a fence that's parallel to the drill bit, then drill as usual. <S> Mine is already turned and does not look like it would be so easy to clamp to. <S> Since you have an odd piece, I would make a V-cradle , similar to the one below and rotate it so that the cradle is upright. <S> Then, using a combination of clamps and shims, get your spindle so that its axis is co-linear with the drill bit. <S> That way, you're guaranteed that the hole is along the axis of the spindle and perfectly centered. <A> If you have a lathe available (you did mention the spindle being turned already), then you have a great way to drill a hole along the center axis. <S> You use a drill chuck (like this one at Rockler), to hold your drill bit. <S> You chuck the spindle, rotate and move the tailstock towards the headstock to do the drilling. <S> Depending on how you chuck the spindle, it may be easier to put the spindle in the headstock and the bit in the tailstock or the other way around. <S> I've used this technique on fairly short spindle stock, probably wouldn't work well if your spindle was a 20" long, half-inch diameter piece, as the spindle wouldn't have sufficient support. <S> A quick image search found this picture to illustrate what I'm talking about, though it looks as if the material is brass: <A> Adding to Bill Nace's answer, I recently bought a drill chuck for my lathe to do similar type drilling. <S> Someone asked me to make wooden beads. <S> However if you have longer items to drill into the end, you might need to add a spindle steady to the mix. <S> that would help keep the far end from the chuck steady for the drilling.
| Usually, when I turn spindles that need holes in them, I drill the hole first using a Jacobs chuck in the tail stock of my lathe, then use that hole to center my cone center.
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Help needed to decide between a miter saw or sliding miter saw I occasionally do some wood project for fun.I already have a 10” table saw and I have a limited budget to buy a 10” miter saw. My budget allows me to either buy a Dewalt DW713 or a lower brand sliding miter saw with a laser for the same price. I personally like the Dewalt DW713. However, I wonder how important the sliding feature is? I don’t want to regret not having the sliding feature in future. Update and Final Thought I thank you, everyone, for sharing your though here. While I got my answer from this post, I think it highly depends on the usage scenario, preferences, and brands. Therefore I don't think there is only one answer here. <Q> Rather than a higher quality miter saw I purchased a low end sliding miter saw years ago and have not regretted the choice. <S> I did try out several sliding miter saws before making my choice, however, as I found that very low end saws were extraordinarily imprecise. <S> The import shop, for instance, had something that cost half as much, but when manipulating it in the store it was obvious that it moved out of the cut plane easily when pulling it forward. <S> The brand name sliding saws had a much more solid feel, but in the store with the brand name saws I found a lower cost off brand name saw that felt good, and had the features I wanted. <S> As others have pointed out, though, a sliding saw is much larger and heavier, and honestly it fits in a little bit of a niche if you only plan on buying one miter saw: <S> A moderate amount of repeated miter cuts on wide material <S> Want to move it occasionally, but not frequently <S> If you have few cuts to make with wider material, get a regular miter saw and use a circular saw or hand saw for the rare cut that is wider. <S> If you never plan to move it, you might want to consider a 12 inch non-sliding machine, but if you're always moving it, you should probably go with a miter saw, and consider a track saw for the longer cuts. <S> If you need precision then this is the wrong area to save money - most of these saws are designed for construction work and 1/32" or 1/16" precision is just fine for the intended use. <S> If you do get a sliding miter saw, make sure that the sliding and miter action feel good and solid before you buy one, it should be pretty obvious if it's flimsy. <A> For example, a DW717 will cut a 12" wide board where the DW713 will only cut a 10" wide board. <S> The sliding saws are considerably more rickety than the basic type. <S> Just as a general principle it is a good idea to stick to solid, high quality equipment. <S> With a cheapo saw you will probably have cuts that are not perfectly straight and other annoying issues. <A> I bought a 12" Dewalt compound miter years ago. <S> The slider was too much more at the time. <S> I love my saw but I am always regretting not having a slider. <S> It is amazing <S> how often I have boards that are 1/2" -2" too wide. <S> A 12" miter does not cut a 12" board, like you probably noticed the 10" doesn't come close to a 10" board either. <S> My recommendation, is always if you can afford a decent slider, go for it. <S> Unless you really rarely cut boards larger than the capacity. <S> I frequently cut boards after glue up of 11-12", some I can 'lift up' the board to finish, but mostly I have to flip the board over and try to line up the cut and hope that my long sides are parallel. <S> If there is a huge difference in quality (I read a lot of reviews to help make that distinction) then the question is the slider at a quality that is at least sufficient for your needs. <S> If the slider is really for cutting 2x stock and not nice hardwoods, then I would pass it up. <S> I've learned to buy the best tool I can afford for the job I plan to use it for. <S> A simple tool I'll use less than once a year, I'll likely go for cheap. <S> A miter I want to make an investment, sometimes this means waiting longer to save up more money for it. <S> A router is something you can get cheap, and then save up and get a better one, since every shop could use at least 2 routers, (I'd like more!) <S> But I got/get tired of buying new tools because I bought crap the first time. <A> A sliding miter saw allows you to cut wider boards with the same size or smaller blade. <S> However, a sliding miter saw also typically consumes a lot more space (many models require a lot of room behind the saw) and the sliding mechanism introduces some imprecision on all but the most high-end models. <S> If you may have to move the saw around regularly, the sliding saw will also be heavier and more awkward to move. <S> Some people like having a laser guide. <S> It will help you get aligned at the correct angle to a line on your board, but on mine the beam is still wide enough that it's difficult to get perfect cuts right up to the edge of the line. <S> I use the laser to get close, then sneak up to the line on the miter saw or with another tool.
| The advantage of the "sliding" saws which are sort of a poor man's version of a radial arm saw are that they will cut slightly wider material.
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What's the best way to neatly cut a wooden cube in half, removing little material? I'm in the process of making some wooden block tubing clamps, a bit like these or the one at the bottom of this page . The blocks are fine, the leather hinge is all sorted and I'm not worried about boring the holes. I am hesitant about the best way of cutting the blocks in half as cleanly as possible and without removing too much material. I do have the use of a bandsaw, but don't have much faith that the blade won't meander. Is a bandsaw the recommended solution, or would it be less risky to use a hand tool, such as this: <Q> I am hesitant about the best way of cutting the blocks in half as cleanly as possible and without removing too much material. <S> Let me present a slightly different tack here. <S> Looking at the first link <S> you posted, it looks very much like the blocks are an exact fit on the tubes: <S> This is actually pretty simple to achieve. <S> First, cut two blocks that are each half of a cube. <S> Then, clamp the blocks together and drill the hole for the tube such that half of the hole is on half of each piece. <S> This is best done on a drill press. <S> Like @rob states, you might want the kerf taken out anyway so that you get some clamping action on the blocks. <S> If that's the case, then either of the answers posted by @rob or @keshlam will work perfectly fine. <S> Edit #1: <S> If you want the clamping action while still following my original advise, shim between the blocks with some thick paper or card stock or thin shims of wood. <S> It will essentially be the same as taking the kerf out with a saw. <A> If you have access to a table saw an easy way to get clean cuts and perfect cubes might be: <S> Cut precise half cubes on table saw. <S> Clamp half cubes together <S> then bore your holes. <S> Same goes for other types of saws. <S> A table saw might not even be an option depending on how thick your blocks are. <S> That said, as rob notes in his answer you still probably want to remove material to improve clamping action on the pipes. <S> If you use the above method you could insert a thin (1/32" or so) spacer between the half cubes before clamping and drilling, or sand them down after drilling. <A> Yes, a hand saw--especially a Japanese-style saw like the kataba in your picture--will give you a thinner kerf than, say, a table saw. <S> This saw cuts on the pull stroke rather than the push stroke like Western-style hand saws, but even a hand saw with a thick plate and large amount of set on the teeth will cut a thinner kerf than most, if not all, table saw blades. <S> You should be able to either tune your bandsaw to cut straight , or you can learn and adjust for the drift. <S> That said, in this case I would say it's ok if your bandsaw blade wanders a little bit, since the two pieces will still have perfectly-mating surfaces. <S> Another point worth mentioning is that you don't necessarily have to worry about cutting a very small kerf. <S> In the image from the second link you shared, there does appear to be a fairly significant space between the two sides of the block from the larger kerf. <S> A larger kerf will allow you to clamp more tightly around the pipe, especially if the drilled hole as-is does not provide a snug fit. <A> Either a bandsaw or a thin-bladed handsaw should do the job. <S> For handsaws, Western backsaw or Eastern pull-style saw generally have the thinnest blades you can find easily. <S> Even a thin-kerf tablesaw blade might do the job, depending on just how critical it is to avoid waste. <A> You do not need to cut a block in half at all. <S> You just need to make sure the that the two halves mate to each other well, which is more a matter of grinding/sanding than sawing. <S> Then, I would clamp them together with a kant clamp and sand the remaining faces. <S> A band saw is the wrong tool. <S> You want to have 2 disc sanders because one should be fitted with a roughing abrasive like 100 grit, and the other should have a fine abrasive like a 400 grit. <S> Alternatively you can do the production in batches, first roughing all the blocks and then fine sanding them, using the same sander.
| I would make the half-blocks by using a table saw and then make two square faces using a pair of disc sanders. Although a table saw will give you a nice quick, clean cut, a properly tuned band saw with a fence (even just clamp some scrap to your band saw table as a guide to ride the block against) will do the job just fine.
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Fire Protection of Plywood I need to build a small door between my garage and my attic. The rest of the wall is plaster on button board and is about the equivalent of 5/8" sheetrock. If I doubled up two sheets of 3/4" plywood, would it offer the same or better fire protection? <Q> To lead from a comment you made on another answer <S> I think I get it now. <S> The doors you speak of do not stop fire dead. <S> It's not about fire protection but more about giving time for people to be able to leave the premises. <S> Fire beats wood. <S> That is a fact. <S> It does however take time. <S> A basic definition from a Quora post: <S> Fire Door specifications <S> Fire doors are not just the door itself , it includes the frame, ironmongery, glazing and smoke seal . <S> Point to take from that is just having wood alone does not constitute fire protection. <S> There is a reason that these types of things have complete codes to define their production, testing, use and safety thresholds. <S> 2 sheets of plywood alone <S> I do not think are good fire protection by any means. <A> It would be a better idea to screw a sheet of steel to it on both sides. <A> If I doubled up two sheets of 3/4" plywood, would it offer the same or better fire protection? <S> Unless it's plywood treated with flame-retardant, no. <S> Regular plywood has basically zero fire rating. <S> Type X 5/8" gypsum drywall has a 1-hour fire rating . <S> Why would you want to build a fire barrier out of something flammable?
| The thickness of the wood is not the sole reason it suffices in other fire doors . In a hospital I used to work in, the fire doors were made out of wood and were rated at 1.5 or 2 hours of protection as a function of their thickness.
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Supporting a workpiece during staining / finishing without damaging finish If I am staining or applying any type of finish to a piece, and have to turn it upside down at some point or set it on something to dry, what can I set it on that won't mark the finish? A limited selection of failed strategies so far: Setting on pointy edge of aluminum angles - marks finish; or pulls a line off if finish is still tacky Setting on pointy edge of wood triangles - same as above. Setting on wood spacers - spacers soak stain out of piece, worse depending on what type of wood the spacers are Cloth barrier - cloth soaks stain and finish out of piece, sticks to piece Wax paper barrier - somewhat ok, often still pulls bits off of tacky finish or stain or leaves scuffs on finish Everything I've tried so far either rubs or soaks up the stain and/or finish on the piece. Even when e.g. stain doesn't seem tacky, if I leave the piece on wooden spacers overnight when I come back in the morning their are inevitably lighter spots where the spacers were and stain on the spacers. Short of an antigravity chamber or strong enough magnetic field for levitation of wood, how can I support a work-in-progress without damaging it? <Q> Finish one side, let it dry, finish the other. <S> Or hang it from a string (as some folks do when spray-finishing cabinet doors). <S> Many people do use nail points or other nonabsorbant supports. <S> The point (sorry) of all of these is that if there's any marring, it's a tiny dot which becomes completely invisible if you're laying down multiple coats. <S> I'm sure there are other solutions. <A> If I am staining or applying any type of finish to a piece, and have to turn it upside down at some point or set it on something to dry, what can I set it on that won't mark the finish? <S> You really can't do this in practice IMO. <S> You'll find a few tips online and in articles on how this can be achieved but in reality I think even the best of them (the piece supported on sharp points) only work if one side — the side that will eventually be the most visible — is uppermost during the drying period. <S> As keshlam mentions in his Answer the tiny dot that results can become obscured when laying down multiple coats, but that's not an absolute. <S> I've experienced it myself where the 'bleb' left by the drying of the first coat was still plain to see (to me at least) after numerous coats of finish. <S> One way people try to work around this is to make the support points sharper, to minimise the surface contact, but that's not ideal either because sharp points will of course tend to sink into the wood, and the heavier the workpiece the greater this effect. <S> The tiny divot left behind by the tip of a sharpened brad can be plainly visible even on a relatively light piece, it would be quite pronounced on anything heavier. <S> You can however support some pieces in other ways. <S> I don't think there's any workpiece or subassembly which is viewed equally on all sides in its finished orientation. <S> So you can for example support shelf boards by their edges, a table can be supported on its feet, and so forth. <A> Once done then you can hang it. <S> If you're spraying then you can hang it prior to applying the finish. <S> One of the last times I used this was a bunch of shelves that were painted white on both sides and the edges. <S> I put a screw on the side and used that to keep the piece standing on the back edge so it wouldn't fall over. <S> While the finish on those sides wasn't perfect it didn't really need to be since the only time someone would see the imperfection is when moving shelves around. <S> I could have hung the shelves with a bit more work but chose not to.
| Personally I like to put a screw in a non visible spot and then finish the piece. Many plastic objects are marketed for the purpose...
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To change a blade on a table saw, do I pull the wrench toward the front? To change the blade on the table saw, do I pull the wrench toward the front of the saw to loosen the nut? <Q> If the arbor enters the blade from the left side of the saw (as most do), you need to rotate the top of the nut toward you to loosen it, away from you to tighten it. <S> Note that this way, forces on the blade tend to keep the nut tight rather than encouraging it to work free. <A> I can't imagine that it would be threaded the other way, because of safety, but who knows. <S> But like Matt mentions in a comment the manual will have the correct instructions. <S> Sometimes you have to give the wrench a few light taps if the nut has tightened up from the blade spinning. <A> The manual is the bible of your tablesaw, of course, but being a bit dyslexic, I need all the help I can get in situations like this, so I've developed a couple of habits I find useful. <S> The nut on my tablesaw arbor is the only left-handed thread I have to deal with regularly. <S> Since it is on the left side of the blade, I consciously only loosen it with my left hand (I'm right-handed, so most off <S> my threading tasks are done with my dominant hand). <S> Muscle memory helps me remember which way to turn it. <S> Also, my saw requires brace to hold the blade against the force of the wrench. <S> I know I'm loosening when the blade's teeth bite into the brace.
| On all table saws I've seen rotate the wrench on the nut in the same direction that the blade spins to loosen the nut (regardless of which way the arbor is mounted).
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Best way to drill a concentric hole with a lathe I'm new to turning and recently decided to make some pepper mills. Starting with squareish stock I roughed the pieces to round and then started drilling several concentric holes of different sizes using forstner bits on the lathe. Somebody gave me the feedback that I should use the largest drill bit first and not to drill any pilot holes. In other words if I need a 1.5" through hole and a 2.5" hole at 1" depth then I should drill the 2.5" hole first followed by the 1.5" hole. This flies in the face of everything I've been taught, but the explanation was that the forstner bits do better without large pilot hole (e.g. from another forstner bit). In any event I was able to drill the holes into the work pieces, but as I did this I noticed that the drill bit appeared to be wobbling rather substantially (it looked like the work piece was "pulling" the bit such that it wasn't always inline with the axis of rotation. I assume that this is because the drill bit didn't enter the piece perfectly inline with the axis of rotation though for the first ~1.5" I couldn't tell and it looked good). This was especially true when I used a drill bit extension to get the depth I needed (I started swapping in the extension only when I needed it rather than starting with it for deeper holes). After I drilled the holes I used a cone/chuck to hold the piece in place for sanding/finishing. On several pieces I noticed that the through holes were not concentric with the outer surface of the work piece. In other words when I'd pull the spindle off the lathe I'd notice that the through hole appeared to be at a slight angle relative to the outer surface. What's the best way to drill a hole that is "perfectly" concentric with the outer surface of a work piece on a lathe? Is it better to drill first and then rough/round? Should I in fact be using a pilot hole? Am I not securing the piece in the chuck properly prior to drilling? <Q> I assume you are talking about using a wood turning lathe and you have mounted the work on the headstock and have the bit mounted in the tailstock. <S> Getting everything lined up on a wood turning lathe will be difficult. <S> They are not made for boring. <S> I would recommend using a drill press instead. <S> If you are making through holes there is no reason to be using a Forstner bit. <S> Those are used for making blind holes. <S> There are various YouTube guides on how to do boring on a wood turning lathe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCrETz4RTyM <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l24q7r_sg2A <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3fueO0oP80 <S> The last of these is actually on boring a pepper mill, your exact problem. <S> If I was making a lot of pepper mills, I would probably make a setup with a cutting mandrel. <S> Then the mandrel is threaded through this hole and tightened with a collet to the chuck. <S> A v-block fixture is used to support the work at specific height. <S> Then the work is pushed along the mandrel to cut the holes. <S> The mandrel has two cutters mounted on it, so that the entire inner diameter of the worker will be cut in one step. <S> This kind of setup is somewhat advanced, but if you are making a lot of pepper mills would be desirable because it will be fast. <S> The mandrel is very rigid. <S> For example, if you watch the 3rd video above you can see how he has to keep backing out the drill. <S> A mandrel cutter is really powerful and will just bore the whole thing in one move. <S> In any case you would turn the outside of the pepper mill after doing the inside, so the outside should always be concentric with the inside. <A> This is a very tricky thing without a VERY stout bit and tailstock. <S> If I 'cheat' (not really cheating IMO) and use a drillbit, I generally finish with a bowl/hollowing tool, which I can get very uniform wall thickness, and a centered hole through to the other end. <S> The difficulty is in drilling, once the bit is off-center even as little as half a degree, the drilled hole will guide the bit further off course since the flutes do little to any cutting. <S> Might be worth a shot. <A> You need a gun drill for your pilot hole. <S> Drill bit extensions do not work well for making very straight holes, but if the pilot hole is straight enough it might work out.
| First a hole is drilled through the blank using a drill press. Another thought coming to mind would say use a Forstner bit, which does it's cutting a bit differently, and a wire bit support to help guide and support the bit.
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How to prevent router bit from sliding in collet? This is beyond frustrating. I tighten the heck out of my router bit in the colette and it slides mid cut. How do I prevent this? Also, how come they don't make routers with the SDS+ system of locking bits in the chuck/colette so there is no way for them to slide? Like hammer drills. <Q> Be sure to also obey the minimum insertion depth marking on your bit if it has one (or insert it all the way and then pull out maybe 1/8" tops if it doesn't). <S> Be sure you are using the correct size as well, <S> e.g. don't use a 6mm bit in a 1/4" collet. <S> Your collet should be locking your bit in place, even without you having to crank as hard as you can when tightening it. <A> If your router bit slips, there are several possibilities: <S> The bit is improperly installed. <S> When installing the bit, let it drop in as far as it will go, then lift it about 1/8". <S> On most bits, there is a small angled collar where the head meets the shank. <S> If you tighten the collet around this, the collet will inevitably lose its hold and the bit will slip out during operation. <S> It's possible you've overtightened the collet in the past, but collets can also wear out with use over time. <S> The collet and/or bit shank needs to be cleaned. <S> You are taking too heavy a cut (this can be compounded by cutting too fast or using a dull bit). <S> Remember to take small bites with a router. <S> You are not tightening the collet as much as you think you are. <S> (Though, as previously noted, it's also possible to overtighten the collet and damage the collet and/or the bit.) <A> If the collet is worn, replace it. <S> They can wear out through usage (although that is uncommon). <S> They are often damaged by mishandling and accidents to the router. <S> Check with the router manufacturer to get a replacement. <S> If the collet isn't worn, then you need to follow the manufacturer's instructions on tightening to properly hold the bit. <S> Lastly, if the bit isn't the correct size for the collet, you should switch to a bit that is the correct diameter. <S> You could have significant safety issues by not doing so.
| The collet or bit is damaged and the collet cannot tighten properly around the bit. If this is a new router , perhaps it is possible that you have a defective machine with a damaged collet, or a piece of debris is jammed in the collet. If you have only observed this on a single bit it's also possible that your bit has a defective shank or another quality issue.
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How to clean and maintain my table saw top We obtained this very nice JET table saw a while back but the surface had gotten some water sitting on it and started to get a rust spot. Unfortunately, someone got a bit overzealous and thought it would be a good idea to use a chemical rust remover. This did remove the rust mostly, but it also seems to have damaged the surface. Perhaps there was a coating it removed. Now it is discolored, streaky, spotty, and seems to rust easier. How can I safely clean and restore the surface? How can I maintain it? EDIT: This is it after a very quick use of Naval Jelly and SC Johnson Paste Wax (which I was only able to buff in, not able to let is sit and melt on due to temperature) as @popdan suggested: <Q> Light cleaning can be done with #0000 steel wool. <S> Naval Jelly can be used if more aggressive cleaning is needed. <S> SC Johnson paste wax can be used to maintain it. <A> How can I safely clean and restore the surface? <S> If the cleaner that was used has chemically altered the surface of the top, there's not much you can do aside from remove the discolored areas. <S> Unfortunately, you set yourself up for an uneven top if you to that, so I'd advise against it. <S> If it's just a cosmetic blemish, I'd leave it alone. <S> Otherwise, if it's just some surface gunk or spot rust, scrub it with some steel wool or a Scotch-Brite pad and a light oil (mineral oil, 3-in-one, etc.). <S> That should get rid of most of the gunk. <S> If that doesn't do it, you might try some other solvent, like lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. <S> How can I maintain it? <S> For most casual woodworkers, this amounts to putting a coat of paste wax on every couple weeks or so. <S> The paste wax has the added benefit that it helps the wood slide easier during cuts. <S> This website recommends Renaissance Wax, which will actually polish your table top over time and make it even smoother. <S> Otherwise, there are some other rust preventatives you can buy. <S> Boeshield <S> T-9 is probably one of the more popular ones now, and I can attest that it works. <S> There are various other aftermarket solutions like this if you look at a Rockler or Woodcraft store, so feel free to check those out. <S> Remember, rust is like cancer. <S> Stop its spread quick, otherwise it'll keep getting worse. <A> Unfortunately, someone got a bit overzealous and thought it would be a good idea to use a chemical rust remover. <S> Just for the record, that wasn't really over-zealous. <S> It's perfectly OK to use a chemical rust remover as and when needed to treat rust on any woodworking tool, as long as you follow this with appropriate post-cleaning treatment. <S> That's all that was missing in this case. <S> it also seems to have damaged the surface. <S> Perhaps there was a coating it removed. <S> Now it is discolored, streaky, spotty, and seems to rust easier. <S> Yes I think it's likely it partly removed the factory-applied protective coating (which could have been as simple as a spray of mineral oil) leaving parts of the surface exposed to moisture in the air. <S> How can I safely clean and restore the surface? <S> I'm not sure I want to promote them given how much the retail price has climbed in recent years <S> * <S> but I've read many extremely favourable reports on the Sandflex blocks for this kind of thing. <S> Where steel wool or Scotch-Brite isn't quite up to the task the medium and/or fine versions of Sandflex will do everything you could ask for apparently. <S> * <S> Not sure how the shipping will work out but the prices here on Klingspor's own Woodworking Shop are very good currently. <S> How can I maintain it? <S> The two main ways to prevent rusting on exposed steel and iron are oil and wax. <S> Virtually all commercial rust preventatives are based on one or both of these, including the much-vaunted Boeshield T-9. <S> I'm much more of a fan of wax myself as you can apply it and leave more of it in place as a protective coating while the tool remains functional. <S> Imagine using your table saw if the bed was oily.... ugh. <S> But with a buffed waxed surface it's great, actually better than if untreated. <S> I would strongly recommend you don't buy Renaissance Wax for this, it's ridiculously overpriced for what it is and doesn't work any better than much cheaper alternatives, including the Johnson's paste wax recommended first by popdan. <S> You can also easily make your own paste wax if that's the sort of thing that appeals to you, see previous Answer . <A> I have a 50+ <S> year old Craftsman cast iron table saw that has seen many years of hard use. <S> Probably 3 times in it's life it needed some serious cleaning and surfacing. <S> I started with a large flat block and a whole sheet of Sandpaper for metal, like emery cloth progressing from medium to very fine, to be sure the surface stayed flat. <S> When the entire surface looked uniformly smooth and clean, I heated the entire top evenly until it was hot to the touch. <S> Using fine steel wool, melted bees wax, and a heat gun to keep the wax melted, I rubbed it into the top. <S> An old timer told me the wax will penetrate the surface a little. <S> It repelled rust for many years after that and even the wood was always easier to slide through. <S> Set aside the better part of a day because it takes time, and make sure to heat the entire top evenly to prevent warping. <S> Remember to do the sides of the rip fence too. <S> It looks like your top may have some little pits from rust too. <S> They should not affect anything as they seem small, and the wax may fill them in too.
| Most table saw manufacturers recommend periodic coating with a rust preventative on the table top.
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Do I need to clean my miter and table saw after each use? A contractor told me that I need to clean wood dust from my table saw and miter saw after each use. He explained that leaving wood dust can impact the tools’ longevity and I should use a compressed air blower to clean the dust from the saw tools. How accurate is that statement? Update: I got my answer through this post. It makes sense to clean the dust from power tools after each use wood dust can cause rust on the metal parts However, still it is not clear to me that how essential is the use of a compressor air blower. Not everyone has a compressor and it might not be feasible to carry a compressor along with power tools to job sites. I personally think a shopvac should be efficient enough.Shopvac is an easier and more practical option. <Q> I think this falls under the "it's true, but doesn't matter" category. <S> Motors will operate at their peak efficiency when clean, but it takes a lot of dust build up before the performance or longevity would be impacted. <S> Personally, I clean off my tools prior to storing them, just because I like to keep things neat. <S> My Dad used the same miter saw on construction sites for years and the only cleaning it got was what fell out of it when he put it in the truck. <A> What LeeG's answer covers is pretty spot on when it comes to build up of dust on the motor and the hidden areas. <S> Not to condone it <S> but my 12 inch mitre saw has hardened sawdust build up behind the frame below where the motor is. <S> There are no moving parts near there <S> and it is not loose. <S> I can turn it upside down (not an easy feat) and the dust will stay there. <S> Been there for years and is not impacting the tools use at all. <S> I wanted to make a point of distinction. <S> You are not talking about where the dust is being accumulated. <S> I would frequently clean the table and surface of saw tools to prevent binding of the pieces being worked on. <S> Mitre gauge slots of table saws are prone to this. <S> If there is dust where wood will be passing I would clear that, while the tool is off, at every pass . <A> For the Miter saw: Ditto on LeeG and Matt's answers. <S> On the inside, my DC keeps the cabinet reasonably dust free, but at least once a year, I vacuum that out with my shopvac to keep things moving freely and them spray parts with a dry lube. <A> Leaving sawdust in contact with metal will promote rust. <S> The reason for this is that the sawdust can absorb moisture, essentially wetting the metal. <S> Also, many woods have acidic pH, so you are essentially exposing your tools to acid by leaving sawdust on them, which will promote rust. <A> This may be opinion rather than answer, but: it's generall y better to get in the habit of cleaning and putting things away as you go. <S> A space that isn't kept neat tends to accumulate more and more layers of "I'll do it later, and I can't do that until I do this and..." <S> Also, excess sawdust can eventually become a safety hazard as well as an accuracy hazard. <S> I'm not very good about this myself, but I'm trying to set a rule that I don't leave the shop until at least one more thing is clean and where it belongs than when I came in. <S> Maybe by 2020 I'll have the shop looking like I want it to. <A> As a former machinist who now works with wood I agree heartily with Dave's comment above regarding the precision of cuts made when sawdust & debris is left on the miter saw table <S> - I clean the table after every cut. <S> Of course the "sawdust absorbs moisture & is acidic" point is a vital observation as well. <S> What I disagree with is the use of an air compressor or other blower as the cleaning agent. <S> An air compressor is more likely to force the debris deeply into tool crevices versus cleaning them out.
| There is really no inherent harm in trying to clean the tools after every use (sort of somehow pushing dust into a crevice I suppose) except for maybe being an exercise in futility. On the Tablesaw, I clean the table top off every time to avoid anything that might rust the cast iron top, then I give a quick wipe down with a lubricant (very quick spray and wipe, nothing detailed).
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Building a large dining table and wondering if my design is strong/structurally sound enough The table is 9' 6" L × 36" W × 29" tall. The frame and the legs will be 1 ½" T. Apron on the side is 2" T, 1" tapering to 1" at the end. The legs are 4" W at the top, tapering to 2" at the bottom. Wood is white oak. I'm planning on building sort of torsion box on the frame (+ some cauls or whatever they're called to keep the top from warping). The legs-to-apron joints will be bridal, all others will be Festool Domino tenons (probably 10mm × 50mm). Given a weight of 48lbs/ft3 for white oak, it seems the top will weigh in at about 170 lbs (!). So, the question is: Do you think the frame is strong/solid enough to carry this weight? And do you think in general this will be a sturdy and wobble-free table? <Q> I ran a span calculation for a 2x4 oak board at http://www.awc.org/codes-standards/calculators-software/spancalc using a 35psf live and dead load, the minimum setting available and got a result of 6 foot. <S> Although this is a total load of 900lb. <S> , it should be noted that you could easily get several hundred lbs. <S> on the top. <S> I have a similar length long spanning table with aprons at 4" aprons. <S> It looks like your apron depth is marginal and <S> I would recommend increasing it. <S> As an alternative consider supporting the table with a tressle base and move the deeper support beams in from the exterior. <S> You can then taper the supports to maintain a thinner edge profile. <S> Where I am most concerned is in the connection of the legs. <S> The fact that they are not perpendicular to the floor means they generate a lot more stress on the connection to the aprons. <S> There is no way that you can transfer all the weight of the table. <S> In addition the legs must be wide in both directions so that they can resist stress in both the long and short directions. <S> You should also consider the use of the table during dinners and the arrangement of seating around the table. <S> The 3' width is very narrow for seating on both sides and room for food dishes in the middle. <S> Also check the seat placement to determine if the legs are getting in the way. <A> wondering if my design is strong/structurally sound enough <S> A torsion box is obviously very stiff and stable, and this would make for a very very strong table just as it does with workbenches constructed this way. <S> But it's complete overkill for the kinds of loads a normal table would require, think about the much sparer structure of a standard 7' (2.13m) dining table which are often capable of taking the full weight of an adult. <S> And anyway torsion-box construction is best suited to tops made from plywood or another manmade board where they can be rigidly joined throughout. <S> Even on a table of this kind all you should need is three or four 'stringers', one between each pair of legs and one or two in the middle somewhere. <S> And it is directly from these that you can attach the tabletop, no need for extra battens. <S> The best options for attaching the tabletop to the apron <S> IMO are with hardwood buttons or expansion plates, as shown in this previous Answer . <S> Even on a table of this size you shouldn't need more than eight (two per side). <S> But you could add a third along the long sides if you feel the need, it won't harm the structure in any way if you use more than are strictly necessary. <S> I would suggest you alter the design in another key way as well, to make the structure underneath distinctly narrower than the top, so that it has the common overhang that tabletops have. <S> If you make any sort of apron or under-frame flush with the sides of the tabletop itself at certain times of the year when conditions are exactly right it will be dead flush as when it was made. <S> But it could be slightly narrower during the wet season when the top expands, and most importantly slightly wider during the dry season when the top shrinks, which will look very strange! <S> do you think in general this will be a ...wobble-free table <S> That's entirely down to how flat the floor is and how accurately the legs are cut to length :-) <S> Any four-legged table will be stable and free from wobble if those conditions are met. <A> A bridle (not bridal) <S> joint for the legs is probably a good choice of joint, but if you want this table to last for years and years then some side bracing of the legs wouldn't go amiss. <A> I don't think you are allowing for the loads applied by the users. <S> People applying weight (sitting, standing , dining) will apply lateral forces, perpendicular to the cross sectional strength of your leg orientation. <S> You are concerned about "wobble-free" WHEN BEING USED. <S> You definitely need more bracing to resist side to side wobble.
| The main thing that I can see (apart from the bracing being a bit overkill) is that you probably want some small braces at the top of the legs where they meet the apron / top, in order to stop sideways wobble.
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How do I choose a drill press? A drill press seems such an essential tool -- even outside of fine woodworking I have found need for it a great many times -- but as I dive into woodworking I see even more of a need for it. The precision, straightness of cut, and depth limiter will obviously give better results and make some near-impossible hand drill tasks easy. But how do I choose one? Spindle travel seems very important. 2" sounds tiny and 5" sounds big. How much do I actually need, or what depths should I expect to want to reach. If I only drill through 3/4" wood, any size is fine. (Right?) But a 2x4 could makes more travel useful. Table size and adjustability seems very important. Big, tiltable, easy clamp spots, etc. would make it most easy to use with any workpiece. Right? Bench vs floor standing also seems important, however I'm not sure I see many scenarios where floor standing space would actually matter for the workpiece... though maybe I'm short-sighted? What else am I missing? <Q> Table size matters, but it's common to add your own table -- <S> many drill presses come set up with a table that's better for metalworking than woodworking. <S> Ease of adjusting the table matters. <S> You want a table that can be reliably brought back to level... <S> or you can leave it level and use a jig when drilling on an angle, which some find easier. <S> You want a table whose height is easily adjusted, and that can be swung off to the side for end-drilling large pieces. <S> Most drillpresses will have those features. <S> You want a head that lets you change speeds reasonably easily. <S> You <S> USUALLY <S> won't need more than 4 inches travel, if that; if you're going deeper, moving the table vertically can supplement quill travel. <S> Note that I'm saying "want". <S> You can save a significant amount of money by getting what you need instead. <S> The best deal is often a 50-year-old machine in reasonable condition which may be s bit more nuisance to set up and will be heavy but will do the job just fine, especially if you spend some time tuning it up. <A> I was hoping someone would cover this question from getting a drill press perspective. <S> Keshlam has done a good job of just that . <S> I wanted to be sure that you actually need this tool. <S> Like most power tools a drill press will help you perform the same task repeatedly fast and efficiently with good results where tolerance in concerned. <S> I would like to call on a comment by Graphus <S> Whether you need one is partly about <S> the work you're doing of course Drill press, in its basic form, will help you make 90 degree (or other angle if you table rotates) in your work pieces. <S> You would need to ask yourself how often you need to do that. <S> In that same vein how often you need to be that accurate. <S> You mentioned that you wanted to make some birdhouses. <S> Those are the projects I started out with. <S> Woodworking is one of the trades were tolerance does not have to be 0%. <S> This of course depends on the project but there are many where not everything has to be perfectly flush during assembly. <S> Adjusts can be made after. <S> Nor does a screw have to be perfectly inserted. <S> Consider a Jig Unless you plan to be using a drill press regularly, or get one a good one at cost, you can perform most of the functionality you would get with some jigs. <S> A really good question about this topic is: How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk? . <S> Two of the answers there cover a homemade jig and a commercial one. <S> So again, depending on how often you need that functionally it might be better to start with a jig. <S> Once you get an idea how often you need it <S> then maybe you will know if a drill press is right for you. <A> This doesn't answer for a drill press specifically, but is the method I use for choosing any major power tool purchase. <S> 1) I determine the price range breakdowns for a given tool. <S> You will see natural breaks in manufacturer pricing across a given variable. <S> Often it is hobbyist, pro-sumer, proffesional, industrial or something like that. <S> The size of the motor will usually be a key factor. <S> Quality of key mechanics will also matter - such as bearings. <S> 2) I identify 3 models in the price range <S> I'm comfortable with. <S> I do this by looking around on the web to see what other people suggest and so forth. <S> Often tool round-ups on blogs or buying guides in woodworking publications work for this. <S> 3) <S> Next I make a chart of the specifications that seem pertinent to the tool and put this in a research document for my tool. <S> Here is an example for a bandsaw purchase: 4) I then create a section in my research document for each model and start digging around on the web for more pros and cons. <S> I list them under each models section with links. <S> 5) I search for specific gripes on each tool of the 3 chosen. <S> Some models of tools seem to be known for certain problems - some you can live with or not. <S> 6) I look for any oddities with respect to repair or upkeep of the tool. <S> If the tool has an oddball proprietary chuck or something, might be a no-go if you're hoping to run to a box store and buy replacements. <S> 7) I check forums on the tools. <S> Again documenting with links any issues or advantages. <S> 8) <S> I see if I can find the tool in a store. <S> And I watch several videos of the tool in use. <S> 9) Look for deals on the tool. <S> Sometimes a tool needs to be shipped - but freight can be averted in the right circumstance. <S> There's also the chance that it will go on sale at a certain time. <S> I will contact sellers of the tool and specifically ask that question. <S> 10) Buy the tool. <S> Examine it when it arrives and make sure everything is functioning properly <S> and there's no damage - contacting the seller immediately if there's any problems.
| It should have a built-in depth stop, ideally with both quick and fine adjust.
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What is the recommended way to mortise melamine particleboard? I need to cut square holes in some double sided melamine particleboard 3/4 inch thick. Can I use a hollow chisel mortise (drill press style) to make these holes? I could just experiment with this myself but I will be using someone else's equipment to do this so I don't want to damage it. Thank you. <Q> In addition to the particleboard itself, which is indeed quite hard on cutting edges (due to the glues binding the wood particles), the melamine coating is also very hard. <S> I would consider drilling as much of the waste as possible before squaring the holes, or at the very least drill through the melamine coating. <A> How clean do the edges of these holes need to be? <S> Chipboard/Particle board can have a nice face surface but this inside could be a mess <S> so I don't expect your standards would be too high here. <S> I would cut a groove into the melamine to help mitiagte chipping. <S> Then use a drill, likely hand held, to make a hole large enough for me to get a jigsaw in there to remove as much waste. <S> If appearances are not a factor I would be cleaning the inside edges with the jigsaw as well. <S> If you wanted cleaner edges I would pare with a chisel but like Graphus says : [P]articleboard/chipboard is famously hard on cutting edges, quite astonishingly so sometimes. <S> And like I mentioned above I don't think you will get that clean surface inside the mortise but that might not be the case given the quality of the wood product. <A> In this Popular Woodworking article a chip free router bit seems to be a very good solution for cutting those through holes. <S> Chip-Free Bits <S> Spiral bits often make a smoother, more accurate cut than straight bits. <S> An up-cut spiral bit pulls chips up and out, making it perfect for cutting mortises in solid wood. <S> A down-cut bit pushes chips <S> downward, ideal for making chip-free dados in plywood and melamine. <S> (Down-cut bits are not recommended for use in a router table, however, because they can push the workpiece up off the table.) <S> A compression bit has spirals running both ways, up and down, pulling chips toward the middle of the bit. <S> It’s the best bit for routing the edges of plywood or melamine–you’ll get a chip-free surface on both sides. <S> You can drill out most of the material then clean it up with a router using this type of bit. <S> If the corners need to be square then you get back to using chisels or possibly a hand held jig-saw to cleanly remove the last little bit of material. <A> I'm sure this can be done, but I think you're right to ask as particleboard/chipboard <S> is famously hard on cutting edges, quite astonishingly so sometimes. <S> So there is every chance the square chisels will need sharpening immediately after doing this, and it's even possible that a sharpening will be felt necessary once or more during the process if you're forming a fair number of mortises.
| Alternatively, depending how many holes you need, their dimensions and the accuracy required, I would consider doing it strictly by drilling the waste and squaring and cleaning with a regular hand chisel.
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Using a normal bench vise for a drill press? I'm aware that there is a separate type of vise specifically for drill presses, but the workshop where I'm at are a little short on budget and I'm wondering if a normal bench vise like this one can be used for a drill press as substitution for the specialised one. Also, does anyone know whether it's difficult to unmount a bench vise from a bench? Many thanks. <Q> If the piece is canted then your holes will not be perpendicular. <S> Personally, I have a couple of vises for my drill press, but never use them for wood. <S> I more typically use a clamp or just a fence. <A> I'm wondering if a normal bench vise like <S> this one can be used for a drill press as substitution for the specialised one. <S> There is no reason why it can't. <S> The only thing is for the "regular" bench vise, you will have to make extra checks that the piece you are drilling is presented to the drill bit at the correct angle since the regular vise does not have indents for plumb/square. <S> Also, does anyone know whether it's difficult to unmount a bench vise from a bench? <S> Without knowing how the vise was mounted, we can't really answer that. <S> If it's welded, good luck. <A> I have used a regular vise many times on a couple of drill presses and on a milling machine. <S> Because sometimes you just need a bigger vise. <S> I wouldn't recommend it for precision work, mostly because bench vises are designed to be able to clamp a wide variety of objects rather than to easily reproduce particular clamping configurations. <S> So expect to spend significantly more time re-registering your work if you have to move it. <S> Of course, that whole "clamp a wide variety of objects" thing has its advantages too, and has been the reason behind most of the times I found myself using one. <S> Also, be aware that most bench vises aren't particularly square. <S> Don't assume that the top of the jaws are parallel to the worktable. <S> Most of them are canted slightly to one side or the other. <S> On some of them it will change based on how tight the rotation bolt is. <S> (Just generally, they don't tend to be very precise implements.) <S> All that said, sometimes big, deep jaws just make things enough easier that it's worth <S> the extra fiddle-factor to get the alignment right. <S> For a drill press like the one pictured, I recommend using carriage bolts where the square section matches the width of the slots in the table. <S> From there either drill the holes in the vise's flange bigger or turn down the shafts of the bolts and re-thread them as necessary depending on what you have. <A> You will not easily be able to use a vice like that (or any vice) on a drill press, because you will have no way to reposition it. <S> To mount it on the drill press' table you would have to screw it a thick piece of wood, then bolt the wood to the table, but then it would not move so you would have no way adjusting. <S> To make an adjusting fixture you would need an xy-table, but xy-tables are not normally mounted to drill presses because they are too large and heavy. <S> Normally work is clamped to the table as LeeG shows in his answer. <S> In addition to a vice grip clamp consider getting a clamping set: <S> Clamping sets cost only about $60 and are an incredible deal considering the functionality they offer.
| The problem with using a vice like that on a drill press is that it is difficult to keep the work piece in the same plane as the table of the drill press. If it's just bolted or screwed on, it should come off fine.
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What steps should one take to avoid spalting when drying timber? I am interested in taking steps to ensure that some timber that I am drying does not develop spalting. My specific scenario is as follows: Recently felled Maple (1-2 months ago), Whole logs with bark retained on full circumference, Sizes from 1" to 5" diameter, Currently stacked with air gaps allowing circulation around all pieces, Stored in dry concrete basement with steady warm temperature, Goal is to dry logs/branches whole with bark for craft work. Someone looked at this setup and told me that spalting was probably unavoidable in the larger peices, but I find that doubtful. Is it unavoidable? Have I done what I can do already? The broader question here is what steps should one take to preclude spalting when drying wood ? If my specific scenario helps provide context to answer that question, good. <Q> The broader question here is what steps should one take to preclude spalting when drying wood ? <S> Spalting, as you probably know, is the result of fungal attack on the wood. <S> Wikipedia lists several conditions that need to be met for spalting to occur: <S> Thus, if you want to preclude spalting, do the opposite of the things listed above. <S> Since you are attempting to season whole logs, they will retain water much longer than if it were sawn and hence be susceptible to fungal attack for a longer period of time. <S> That's a double-edged sword because rapid drying leads to rapid cracking of the log cross-sections. <S> However, you state that you have Whole logs with bark retained on full circumference which will not help drying at all. <S> Bark helps the tree retain moisture and greatly slows air drying. <S> If it were possible to place the logs in a totally oxygen-free environment, that would probably be your best bet. <S> However, I doubt you have the ability to do that (unless you happen to live in a submarine or have access to a magical air-tight workshop and can work wearing an oxygen mask). <S> There might be a fungicide you can apply to the logs, but this is just speculation on my part. <S> I've certainly never heard of one. <S> I would like to note that the Wikipedia article references a paper on spalting of sugar maple that may be of interest, if you feel like going through the trouble of acquiring it. <A> Moisture is the largest contributor to wood spalting, especially maple. <S> However, what you are doing will greatly reduce the risk. <S> The only wood I have used so far that has spalted when kept in a dry place is my yellow birch. <S> The bark is too good at preventing moisture from leaving the wood. <S> Maple, especially the small stuff you have (under 6"), really shouldn't have any issues with spalting <S> if you cut it an have it drying right away. <S> One thing that could help even more is if you have a dehumidifier in the basement with the wood (at least in the damper parts of the year). <S> This would help remove more moisture. <S> Now after all that is said and done <S> you want these pieces to be used whole, with the bark on, so even if by some strange chance that they spalt a little, no one will see, notice or care if you are keeping them as such. <S> A more likely issue if these logs are longer, is splitting as it dries. <S> I had a 6' long piece of maple about 6-7" diameter and let it dry <S> , it split all over the place, but it didn't spalt at all. <A> Having now dried the above described wood for a year I wanted to share my results from the steps that I took to avoid spalting. <S> The wood included maple, poplar, and other species of 1" - 6" diameter. <S> I took the following steps avoid spalting: <S> I cut the wood green and immediately brought it inside to dry. <S> The wood was stacked in criss-crossed layers to aid in air exchange and moderate stagnation. <S> The basement was heated in the cold months by a coal furnace (used to heat the house above, but gave off lots of radiant heat for the basement). <S> I would estimate the typical temperature at around 75°F. <S> The basement was naturally dry and a dehumidifier was also used to further maintain the low humidity. <S> I would estimate the typical RH at 35%. <S> I have now cut into many of the pieces up to 5" in size and have observed little or no spalting. <S> Some of the bark had separated in a few places on some pieces. <S> However, with the exception of the expected end-checking, no other negative effects of the drying process were observed.
| If you keep air circulating around the entire log to quickly get the moisture content down, it might reduce the risk of spalting.
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What techniques are there to find the optimal wood cutting list for a project? When I've designed a piece of furniture, I need to source the wood for it. The wood is often sold in plank form that I need to cut to length when it's too long and glue together when it's too narrow. Is there a technique other than trial and error for working out the optimal number of planks to purchase and how to cut and glue them to make the "sheets" I need? Alternatively, are there software utilities that do this for me? EDIT: In my particular case, the supplier can provide the wood in specific dimentions (2.5m lengths of 150mm wide planks in the thickness I need). So I really just need to work out how many of those planks need gluing side-by-side to make the wide boards in such a way as to produce the least wasted wood. <Q> If you're looking for quick and easy, I am currently using CutList Plus (no affiliation) and it does everything you mentioned in your question. <S> I don't want this to sound like too much of a software product review, but it handles storing your supply of lumber (dimensions, cost, types) and then lets you enter all of your parts. <S> Panels can be separately created and it will break it down into parts for you. <S> From here it will generate layouts, which you can optimize for ripping or cross-cutting, or manually re-arrange. <S> It will also generate a bill of materials and reports on project costs. <S> It automatically accounts for waste, blade kerf and other items that need to be factored in. <S> But of course, people have been building things long before there was software to create cut lists. <S> A lot of it was probably done by trial and error, and there might have been more waste. <S> Some strategies I can think of: <S> First, consider any limitations due to equipment, space, etc. <S> Performing a rough cut with a circular saw in your garage and further breaking down in your shop might be easier for you but will affect the final layout of parts Placing parts with a similar dimensions next to each other Starting with large parts and then trying to place smaller parts in the waste areas After your first attempt, try swapping certain parts around to see if it reduces waste or allows more parts per board If you are making multiple panels of different sizes, it might be more optimal to build a larger panel and then cut it down to the individual sizes you need. <S> i.e. If you need one panel that is 8" wide and another that is 9" wide, but your wood is 6", it is more optimal to make a 18" panel from three 6" boards and later cut your 8/9" panels than it is to use two boards for each of the 8" and 9" panels. <A> There's a good answer for dealing with sheet goods here already <S> but it sounds like the question is asking about solid woods where I don't think planning cuts in advance works as well. <S> Admittedly, I find hardwood lumber grading rules confusing <S> but they do give some idea <S> what I can (or cannot) count on when shopping for lumber. <S> For example; for my most recent project I wanted to use some maple which was locally available as no. 1 common . <S> That grade tells me that I can expect to get clear cuttings measuring at least 4"x2' or 3"x3' from 66% of each board. <S> If I can plan an entire project to be built from 4"x2' or 3"x3' pieces then I suppose I can make a guess at home much lumber I need <S> but at least for me <S> that usually isn't the case. <S> I end up inspecting and measuring boards at the lumber yard and re-planning my cut list based on what's available. <S> I can usually do better than 66% but only if I can adapt to whatever knot and defect placement I find. <S> In this case I found boards between 6 and 8' by between 5 and 10" and had to plan how to assemble panels from there based on the cuts and grain pattern <S> I think will work well. <S> If there's a better approach I'd love to know about it too. <A> I used to do a large, custom-built book shelf successfully.
| If you do the project in Google Sketchup, there is a plug-in that will compute a cut list.
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Building a safer blade guard on a table saw sled I saw this photo on another table saw question and it's basically identical to the sled that I built. When I use the sled my hands push on the back fence to move it forward. The blade will cut the piece and continue through the back fence and emerge under the blade guard. I have a problem where my hand will push on the blade guard and position my thumb or palm in the path of the blade. After doing some woodworking for several hours this mistake sometimes happens. So far I've caught my mistake but I want to modify my sled to fix this problem. The only solution that I can think of is to make the blade guard longer. While this would solve the problem it makes working with the sled more difficult. Another option would be to do something that stops the sled from moving forward far enough for the blade to emerge from under the guard, but I can't figure out how that would work. <Q> Your inclination is to use the piece that sticks out the farthest to 'push' the sled. <S> As you noted changing that is the smart thing to do. <S> If you mount it right it will also discourage you from putting your hand in the wrong place. <A> My first thought when reading this was to create a stop to prevent the sled from going far enough for the blade to emerge as well. <S> I like the handle idea above, but I also think a stop safety would be ideal as well. <S> I would think something as simple as a piece of wood that hangs down and catches that back edge of the table saw top right where it needs to stop. <A> Paint the parts you shouldn't touch. <S> Make the parts you should touch natural to touch, like with a handle. <S> Put soda can aluminium pieces loosely where the blade goes too far. <S> Applied correctly they should make a noise but are to soft to damage the saw teeth. <S> Fill the optional blade guard with tooth picks. <S> They will shoot out when the blade hits and you will get a tingling feeling in your stomach.
| Making it longer would be a pain, but my recommendation would be to put a handle on the top of the blade guard so you naturally grab that! Glue awkward wooden pieces or sharp soda can aluminium pieces on the parts you shouldn't touch.
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How to lower large equipment down the basement stairs I'm expecting a new member of the shop family to arrive soon and as any expectant father I'm worried about delivery. I have a 250lbs+ band saw that needs to be lowered down a single flight of stairs into the basement, and I'm trying to figure out the best approach to doing this. I'll update this with a diagram shortly. <Q> Back it down with a stair walker: http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Appliance-Truck-Stair-Climber/dp/B00O39FJ2S/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1454178497&sr=8-3&keywords=stair+dolly <A> Some friends and a case of beer moved my entire shop from the garage to basement. <A> As someone who was a single guy until recently, who didn't want to bother my friends with my latest purchase, I moved every single tool I own into the basement on my own. <S> From table saw to 6" jointer, bandsaw, etc. <S> I've moved things two ways. <S> When the box was too large or difficult to even GET to the steps, I took the pieces out and carried them down one at a time. <S> The heaviest was probably the bed of the jointer, and I placed that on a cardboard box and slid just that piece down the steps. <S> Now, going up might be a different story... <A> My solution for bringing a (still boxed) cabinet saw down into the basement via the bulkhead stairs was two people above slowly letting out ropes arranged for 2x mechanical advantage as it slid down the stairs plus myself underneath guiding and providing additional support. <S> It worked, but I'm not sure I'd recommend it. <S> Should have unboxed and brought it down in pieces, probably. <S> Since then I too have been looking for a better way to rig tackle for this purpose. <S> In Theory it ought to be possible to arrange a crane setup, but I haven't yet found an answer I like.
| First, if it's in the box, I could easily slide the box down the step one at a time (they're carpeted).
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Joining an irregular, detachable modesty panel together and to an irregular shaped desk I've built an irregularly-shaped desk with irregular, five-sided cabinets. It now needs a modesty panel, but because of the unique angles and circumstances, I'm stumped as to how to attach such a panel within the design requirements. The challenges: Because this is fine furniture, there can't be any visible fasteners on the outside of the desk. Fasteners on the inside must be concealed and tasteful. The final piece will be stained, not painted, any patching and filling will show. Due to the size of the finished desk, it needs to be able to be disassembled into smaller pieces for moving if necessary. That means that the two cabinets, the top surface and the modesty panel must be able to separate and re-attach in a non-destructive way. (ie. no glue or screws where the wood will wear out and not hold after repeated screwing and unscrewing.) The modesty panel needs enough structural integrity to not fall apart when it is separate from the desk. There should be some way to attach cables to the modesty panel, like a cable tray. The modesty panel has three panels, each joined at very slight (5-11 degree) angles. Here's a top view with the desk top removed: The three panels of the modesty panel as well as the cabinets are built with 3/4" birch plywood. The two inner joints can be attached permanently, but the ends that attach to the cabinets have to be detachable. Questions: What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a permanent connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible? What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a removable connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle? My though is that a cable management tray of some kind might be the solution to add more structural integrity and create more surface area, but I'm still not sure how it would all attach together. Hopefully someone has some clever fastener or joining trick that might work here. <Q> What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a permanent connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible? <S> For this, I would consider a splined joint. <S> The image below shows two boards that are coplanar, which is pretty easy to set up and execute. <S> However, I'm assuming that if you can build a five-sided desk, you can jig this joint up with your 5-11 degree angle with little issue. <S> ( source ) <S> What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a removable connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle? <S> Your afterthought here actually gave me an idea. <S> My though is that a cable management tray of some kind might be the solution to add more structural integrity and create more surface area, but I'm still not sure how it would all attach together. <S> I imagine the inside of the modesty panel has a cleat glued to it with a matching cable tray piece that locks into place when it's assembled. <S> Then you can attach the cable tray piece to the rest of the desk <S> however you see fit. <S> I would probably use pocket screws, but you have a better idea of your level of "fine-ness" required than I do. <S> Maybe threaded inserts and bolts? <S> Note that this will require a bent or segmented cable tray piece to match the facets of the modesty panel. <S> The image below shows a cut-through view of the modesty panel and the cleat. <A> What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to each other where a permanent connection is needed, keeping in mind that it 3/4 plywood joined end to end, the angles are slight, and no fasteners can be visible? <S> I Googled "blind hinges" and found some nice examples from Tectus and from <S> ibmhCorp which could work nicely for the middle joints. <S> I am not suggesting either one, you can do a more thorough search to find what will work for you (skills and budget). <S> The first above is quite pricey and the lower is inexpensive and looks to be kid stuff to install. <S> What type of fastener would be best to join the panels to the cabinets where a removable connection is needed, keeping in mind that it is 3/4 plywood joined end to face at a slight angle? <S> I then Googled "bed hardware" and found what could work nicely for the end connections from Woodcraft . <S> Again, you can search for what will fulfill your exact needs, but this is a strong sturdy solution. <S> Normally, I would discourage anyone from making attachments with screws into the edge of plywood, but in both types of fastener, the major loading is not being carried by the screws, but by the flanges that are fit into the wood. <A> Rather than using a single thickness of 3/4" plywood for the skirt, I would suggest using two layers of plywood (they can be thinner if you like) with an internal wood frame not unlike a wood stud wall in a house. <S> The overall thickness might be several inches thick. <S> The top and bottom plates could be made from plywood shaped to the profile with internal 'studs' to support and mount the outer profile. <S> If you use 1/4" plywood for the exterior panels you could also create a curved profile. <S> for the skirt. <S> Since the skirt now has some thickness you can secure the skirt to the pedestals using cleats and screws from inside the pedestal so that all connections are concealed. <S> If you hold the top of the inside panel of the skirt below the height of the outside panel, you will have a simple cable tray. <A> Lamello has some interesting biscuits that may be of use as well, for example, their "Simplex" biscuits provide detachable edge joins (cutaway view): <S> There is also the "Clamex" series from their "P System" (although you do need their tools): <S> And their "Fast" biscuits (or just regular ones) plus glued edges provide permanent connections: If you cut your edges to the appropriate 5/11/ <S> etc. <S> degree angle <S> you should have no problem cutting a biscuit slot (just make sure to not cut through the face depending on the thickness of your panels).
| I think adding something like a cleat to the inside of the modesty panel would be a good option.
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How to store equipment no longer being used I have a nice mortise press that rarely gets use. It's a full sized standing unit made by General. It's located in a basement shop and I'm wondering how to best preserve the machine. I haven't turned it on in over a year, and I want to now protected it since I don't know when I'll next use it. Is it a good idea to cover the machine? Can covering it cause problems (i.e. trap moisture) How can I protected against rust? Does the motor need to be run? If so, how long and how often? <Q> Is it a good idea to cover the machine? <S> Can covering it <S> cause problems (i.e. trap moisture) <S> If it were sealed and covered in a plastic tarp, perhaps moisture could build up, but if you cover it with a fabric cover and there is no moisture, you shouldn't have any problems. <S> If your shop floods then you'd definitely want to make sure the machine was dry and the room well ventilated. <S> How can I protected against rust? <S> Best way is to prevent moisture from building up. <S> Without moisture there will be no rust. <S> But there are anti-rust formations you can apply or even paste wax is often used on cast iron surfaces to prevent rust. <S> Does the motor need to be run? <S> If so, how long and how often? <S> Shouldn't be necessary since it's electric. <S> The only reason I can think to periodic run it would be to ensure it still works <S> and you don't find that it's dead when you urgently need it. <A> To add to the other answers, the metal parts probably don't need special care other than rust-prevention. <S> However, if there are any rubber parts (belts, seals, o-rings, etc.) <S> these might degrade without use. <S> This is especially true for rubber parts that are attached to the motor, such as belts and seals. <S> If the motor runs belts I would take them off and store them in an air-tight bag <S> (some advise rubbing the rubber with silicone grease or petroleum jelly, but I've read conflicting opinions on this practice). <S> Seals are a tougher problem. <S> The best way to maintain them would be to simply run the motor every now and then. <S> I can't really say how often and how long, but I'd run it a few times a year, for a few minutes each time. <A> Steven covers your main points well . <S> I hope to add a couple others just in case. <S> Some of these bar on common sense but can still be important. <S> Remove any and all peripherals that you can blades, keys, etc. <S> In that same vein if there is something that can move secure it if possible. <S> You don't want surprises when you (or someone else) is moving stuff around. <S> Remove anything exposed that does not need to be. <S> Tool attachments and accessories should be kept together. <S> Preferably with the tool but together nonetheless. <S> Does the motor need to be run? <S> If so, how long and how often? <S> Motor? <S> No, not really outside what Steven said. <S> Batteries <S> though... <S> You need to be careful as different ones have different long term storage needs. <S> How should I store the batteries of my cordless drill? <S> Storage location can be important too when it comes to moisture and elements. <S> An uninsulated attic is probably not the best place. <S> Out of a location that will get direct sunlight is good advice as well. <S> Sun can degrade some plastics and other cause other reactions as well.
| Covering it will prevent it from being coated in dust and grime but since it's inside (I assume), it offers little protection from anything else.
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I polyed my paintbrush then procrastination left me in a predicament I was using a nice paintbrush with polyurethane and it seems that I set it down then forgot to clean it. I have since run into it and I have a shiny, relativity tough, paintbrush now. Needless to say I do not value these qualities of my paintbrush. I stuck it in a small container of mineral spirits, as it was the only solvent I have available, and left it for a couple of days and for the most part there was no change. Still a tough brush. Again I forgot about it and it has since been months.. So there is no doubt the polyurethane has fully cured by now. Did I doom my paint brush to the garbage or is there something I can still do to save it? <Q> Did I doom my paint brush to the garbage or is there something I can still do to save it? <S> Salvaging a brush with hardened varnish (or paint) in it is actually quite doable. <S> It will require a long soak in strong solvent or a solvent mixture, as in many commercial brush restorers/cleaners and paint strippers. <S> I don't think it matters that much which you use to be honest, so I would get the one that you think you'll get the most future use from. <S> Here's an old tip that will allow the bristles to be suspended in liquid for an extended period of time without distorting: <S> [Source: Paint Brush Care: How To Rescue a Petrified Brush ] <A> I use a solvent called Brush Cleaner. <S> It works well on both oil and acrylic based paints. <S> It is stout stuff <S> so wear gloves and use it in an open area. <S> You will have to soak it for 24 hours or so <S> but that does the trick for me. <S> Be careful to keep the bristles straight as they soak as they will tend to assume the shape they have been held at. <S> If your brush has dried in an awkward shape even cleaning it may leave you with a brush that isn't fit for use. <S> This product is effective for general clean up of brushes too and will keep them soft and pliable. <S> It is worth keeping a can around for regular use. <S> It comes in a quart, gallon, and even five-gallon container. <S> Lowe's in my area sells Crown brand but there are others. <A> You could try using a chemical stripper to dissolve the varnish, as you would when removing this varnish from a table for refinishing. <S> Be careful; many (but not all) of these formulations are quite toxic. <S> However,it may be less expensive to replace the brush, especially when the value of your time is considered. <A> Along with the other recommended chemicals I use a wire brush. <S> Once you have soaked it and it is somewhat supple use the wire brush to clean it. <S> Start at the handle and stroke down with the bristles. <S> This works sometimes. <A> I typically hang them from a nail so the bristles will not get deformed and lower the brush 3/4 of the way into the solvent to prevent mucking up the roots of the bristles.
| I have had good luck suspending brushes in solvent as well. Unless the brush is something of a family heirloom (my grandfather was a housepainter), I'd recommend replacing... and taking this as a lesson in why you want to clean equipment as quickly as possible after you're done with it.
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How should I cut a sheet of plywood for easy re-joining? I have 2 sheets of plywood approx 6ft x 18" x 3/4" and my plan is to use them as bench tops in a shed. I need to cut them cross ways so they fit in my car for transportation. What is the best way to do this so they can be re-joined easily later on? I was thinking if I angled the blade like the third cut in this image then it would afford more support for whatever is resting on the bench, instead of using a simple perpendicular cut like the first. Tools I have available: Circular saw Wood glue Screwdrivers 12" Irwin clamp x 2 Thanks! <Q> Congrats on an excellently done question! <S> In terms of how to cut the board apart I don't think it matters that much, but with an angled cut providing a wider glue surface area that will provide a stronger joint. <S> In the right context I doubt this increased strength will actually matter though, since I assume the sheets will be supported underneath when installed as your worktops. <S> If the plan was to have the glued-up boards support themselves and then any weight put on <S> top IMO you'll want to rethink. <S> Even a very shallow cut giving a scarf joint <S> I doubt would provide the needed strength if unsupported. <S> I think your major difficulty is going to come when it comes time to glueing the pieces of ply back together <S> , you would ideally want to have at least three long clamps with an opening somewhat wider than 6'. <S> Obviously clamps this size don't come cheap. <S> One option is to make rudimentary sash clamps from 2x4s, each would be nearly seven feet long but could be cut down to a more manageable length after the worktops are assembled so they would then be more practically usable in the shop. <S> However transporting that length of 2x material might present you with the same problem as with the plywood in the first place! <S> An alternative method to allow clamping that is sometimes used is to attach temporary glue blocks to the wood, similar to how mitre joints are sometimes held together. <S> These blocks can be directly glued on or attached with an intermediate material (often paper), see tip here for a little more, however with plywood instead of solid wood it might not work as the surface ply can be weak. <S> However, unlike when doing mitres here you have an advantage as one surface will be hidden <S> so instead I would suggest screwing clamping blocks directly to the underside of the plywood, these can simply be unscrewed after the glue has cured. <S> The small holes left in the ply after the screws are removed won't harm its strength. <A> Unless I made a mistake converting dimensions, this is a mere 45*182cm, and 19mm strong. <S> Which will, as LarryBud said, fit in ANY car, yours included. <S> As for leather seats, simply putting a bedspread or such in between wood and seats will do fine (I do that when I drive wood, but usually with pieces that are 250cm rather than 180). <S> But... ... it seems that you really want to cut that sheet in half, <S> so... if you insist on doing that, I would do a straight cut. <S> Not only is this easiest, but you can also use a couple of dowels, which greatly adds to stability and prevents you from going insane trying to glue those slippery bastards together in a straight way. <S> Dowels are no fun with a slanted edge, though. <S> I recommend fish dowels (3 or 4) in this case ( Edit: I just realized that the English word for these is "biscuits"), for which you can conveniently and extremely precisely cut the slit using the circular saw that you have (no free-hand drilling with an improvised jig into end grain as with ordinary dowels... what a nightmare!). <S> That will ensure that the pieces fit together snugly and don't give you trouble shifting around while glueing. <S> Plus, the dowels by themselves are surprisingly stable already. <S> The thing I'm talking about looks like this: There are specialized litte joining saws for that, but you can do just fine wirh a normal circular saw. <S> Voilà, identical matching notches, plug in fish dowel and add glue, press and done. <S> For a more favorable looks, be sure not to cut the notch all the way through, instead stop 2-3cm before the edge. <S> Back when I was in uni, I made a desk that went around the room's corner from a hardboard plate (like what people uses as work surface in the kitchen) joined with a couple of fish dowels and held together with a pair of screw connectors. <S> No glue, just the dowels. <S> Lasted for years, and it would support, well, a female student sitting on it, without breaking. <S> No problem. <A> I don't understand how a 6' long piece of wood, 18" wide, cannot fit into ANY car. <S> That's smaller than a person. <S> Put your passenger seat down and have the wood extend into the foot well. <S> No matter what you do, it'll be less than ideal, especially since you're cutting with a circular saw and don't list any means of guiding it, so I can only assume you're cutting it freehand.
| Simply adjust the parallel guide on your saw table so the cut lands approximately in the middle, and then you cut a notch into both pieces that are to be joined using the same setting .
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Reduce diameter of a dowel (preferably efficiently)? I've got some dowels whose diameters are slightly bigger than what I need, and I don't want to purchase some smaller ones since I'm on a tight budget. Does anyone know how to reduce the diameter throughout the length of the dowel, preferably efficiently? I only need to reduce the diameter throughout the dowel by 0.25~0.5 cm.I was thinking maybe I can sand it down either with sanding paper, file, electric sander or a electric belt sander, but am not sure whether it will work or will be time efficient (the project is slightly in a rush). Many thanks. <Q> While you can sand dowels to reduce their diameter it's not the most efficient method even to take off just a millimetre or two, and it's difficult to ensure consistency along the length. <S> Especially since you want to remove as much as 5mm <S> I think you'd be much better of using a cutting rather than a sanding operation, following the rule <S> shavings <S> > dust where possible . <S> So I think your best option here would be to rig up a simple dowel-cutting tool, which at its most basic requires one piece of wood, a sharp edge of some kind and two clamps to hold everything in place. <S> Here are a few different iterations of the concept: <S> And a few links for more details: Tim Manney's site Lumberjocks Woodgears <A> Chuck the dowel in a drill and make a jig. <S> Two pieces of wood 90 degrees. <S> Glue sandpaper to them and then turn on the drill. <S> Depending on how much you want to take off <S> and it doesn't sound like much I would use a lighter grit. <S> Good luck. <A> As you suggested, the simplest way is sanding. <S> I would start with a coarse grain sand paper (60 or lower) to get the bulk of the material removal, since 2.5 to 5 mm is quite a bit to sand away. <S> The best way to reduce the diameter evenly is to put the dowel in a drill, then spin the drill while at the same time holding the sand paper to the dowel. <S> A few suggestions: <S> Don't hold the sand paper with your hand - it will get very hot very fast. <S> Use a thick glove, or better yet, a concave piece of wood to hold the sand paper. <S> Going slower with the drill will help with this. <S> If the dowel is thicker than what can fit in the chuck of the drill, shave off at the tip of the dowel until it does. <S> This will cost you a few CM off of the length of the dowel. <S> If the dowel is fairly long, you should brace it on the other end.
| The simplest way would be putting the end of the dowel through a round hole in a piece of wood.
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Mounting the top for a new workbench I am planning a new workbench and have a bit of a dilemma. While many home shops I have seen on youtube videos utilize the garage (think of all those displaced, cold cars), I have seized our home's basement. I am retired now and intend to use this new roubo style bench for many years, but someday it will need to be moved upstairs and out. The problem is that the 4" hard maple top reaches towards 200 lbs. and the legs etc push another 75 lbs +/-. I thought it might be a good idea to have the legs be detachable. On the other hand, I want this bench to be a monolith for hand planing & etc. My question then is would an unglued mortise and tenon table top mount be sturdy enough. I could supplement this with some lag bolts through the leg top supports. There is a lot of info on the web regarding how to design them, but not a lot of feedback on how benches performed over time. If you have a sturdy workbench how is the top mounted and how has it handled heavy handwork? <Q> There are more elaborate answers to be sure but tusk and tenon and rising dovetail joinery would lend very well to such a design. <S> I found a perfect image of what I was thinking. <S> Image from villagecarpenter.blogspot.ca <S> Tusk and tenons are known for both their strength, when done well of course, and ease of assembly and disassembly. <S> Now this won't do much for how the legs are connected to the top <S> but the above image also shows rising dovetails. <S> Weight of the top should keep it in place and the risers should allow for disassembly again. <S> Should be able to take that apart several times and still join it back together snugly. <S> Shouldn't need lag bolts if you do something like the above. <A> A workbench top doesn't actually need to be fixed to the legs or leg assembly. <S> At the opposite end of the spectrum you can use something that few woodworkers would conscience in a 'proper' job because they're so utilitarian <S> but they work perfectly well, <S> steel corner brackets: <S> Even the smallest type shown are likely good enough as long as enough of them are fitted, they are placed suitably for the worktop type (to allow for any seasonal movement) and appropriate screws are used, but if you prefer you can use the larger four-screw or six-screw versions. <A> In Paul Sellers' blog he describes Building a Workbench which uses a drop-in wedge to make it possible to separate worktop from legs for transportation image by permission from paulsellers.com. <S> Paul Sellers - How to Build a Workbench – Apron Recesses (part11) This sort of wedge is self-tightening and produces a very rigid and stable workbench. <S> On my benches I don’t rely only on the housing dado. <S> I want something that locks and continues to lock the legs into the apron housings and never turns lose. <S> I also want my bench to be disassembled for moving from time to time. <S> A wedged housing dado resolves the issues.
| As Andy Rae shows in his book Choosing & Using Hand Tools the top can simply sit on round-nosed dowels that project from each leg frame:
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How do I make a drill hole the same depth every time? My drill press doesn't have a "stop". How do I make a drill hole the same depth every time? <Q> Ashler's answer is the simplest and cheapest way to get holes the same depth. <S> But as an extra there are bit collars that can be put on the bits which will enforce exact depth stops. <A> A lot of people drill a hole through a suitable length of wood dowel (or small square cross section) and use that as a stop-collar on the drill. <S> Example <S> You can also just use an external chunk of wood <S> Example <S> One benefit of both these is you don't need an Allen key and can very quickly swap back and forth between two or more different depths (useful for e.g. dowelling) Unlike some pieces of tape or rubber/plastic grommets, they can't be pushed out of position by overenthusiastic pressure. <A> When the spinning tab lowers to the surface of the wood and sweeps away the wood chips, stop. <A> You can also adjust your drill press table to be at the desired depth when the drill reaches the end of it's stroke. <A> Tape is what I would have suggested and continue to use but if you wanted something a little more robust <S> my suggestion would be depth stop collars /nuts Image from AliExpress <S> Easily removed off the bits and adjustable as well which tape would not be as much. <A> if this is not a big project and you're just trying to get very close sized holes.. <S> (maybe you don't want to punch through the other side), <S> i've used electrical tape on the drill bit. <S> just tape above the depth you want to stop. <S> when you hit the tape... <S> stop...
| The simplest means is to place a tab of masking tape on the drill bit at the desired depth.
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What alternatives are there to throwing sawdust in the trash? I find that the thing I make most in my shop is sawdust, I'm quite skilled at it. Much of my scraps and dust end up on a garbage truck and I am looking for a more earth friendly way to deal with it. I have tried composting the sawdust to use in gardens but it is very slow to decay and I am not certain how good it is as a fertilizer and soil enhancement. What alternatives are available to sending the stuff to a landfill? <Q> Bio fuel briquettes / fire logs for campfire / woodstove would be a simple suggestion outside of compost. <S> When it comes to compost you cannot use too much and also heed my warning below. <S> The gist of the solutions our there are to take sawdust and wood pulp mixing it with water and compressing it as much as possible. <S> Small containers work best where you can have some holes to let the water out. <S> Best approach would involve some sort of press <S> but I have seen success just using large amounts of weight. <S> Either way try and get as much of the water out of the pulp as you can. <S> Once that is done leave it to dry. <S> Milage will vary with local but they would need to dry several days at least. <S> Once dry then you have some simple fire logs. <S> One such example of this process can be found on instructables.com . <S> Another from Ana White using paraffin wax and hand mixing . <S> I have heard of more success with water and compression. <S> Here is a video showing a paper/sawdust mixture and using a perforated sewer pipe and a bottle jack jig to force the water out. <S> You can find oodles of variations of this so you should be able to find a combinations of tools and techniques that can suit your needs. <S> There are commercial options as far as pressed go that are designed for this as well. <S> Be warned though! <S> Not all sawdust should be burned or used for anything other than landfill. <S> Be aware of your woods and things that have glues and adhesives should not be burned. <S> Other things like treated wood should be avoided as well. <S> Some woods are known irritants and allergens. <S> This cannot be stressed enough so you just need to be careful. <S> A related question on this subject: <S> How should I dispose of sawdust safely? <A> Especially where I sometimes parked my truck and left ruts in the rain. <A> There are plenty of other uses, though most need some extra work. <S> If the saw dust doesn't have treated wood in it then it can be used as mulch, some plants like raspberry beds love saw dust. <S> My wife also used it as mulch around her flower beds. <S> My dad's neighbor uses it for animal bedding. <S> Horses and chickens. <S> Chickens seem to be a big one and growing. <S> You might find someone who already has one and partner with them. <A> I found a link with a multitude of possibilities. <S> OK 28. <S> The break down into categories of burning them, using them for gardening, craft applications, animal bedding, absorption uses, wood filler, even cooking. <S> One option I had not thought of was to list it on craigslist and see who is interested. <S> One result for listing it was a mushroom farmer who loved the stuff. <S> Only a few uses would consume the amount of sawdust I can generate when I'm cooking. <S> It appears that treated wood, some exotics and black walnut dust should be kept separate from agricultural and animal applications. <S> I found information that that black walnut trees secrete a poison called juglone as a natural defense to prevent other trees from growing in their proximity, so it should definitely be kept separate. <S> ( http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/06/28-ways-to-recycle-and-reuse-sawdust-and-woodchips ) <A> I keep a plastic bag filled with sawdust to use as wood filler. <S> Mixing it with a little glue can provide a nice material to fill small cracks or defects.
| I have used sawdust as filler in my yard to curtail erosion. There also pellet makers for pellet stoves, though I would do plenty of research before buying one of these.
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Why are keyed drill chucks still available for modern tools? Barring support for older tools why are keyed chucks still manufactured? Hopefully not just in my own ignorance but I view keyless chucks as just a useful equivalent without being tethered to the need for a key. A recent question I asked had a link to http://www.jacobschuck.com/ which hosts this image on their main page: They both look beautifully manufactured but why bother getting a keyed chuck? Is it a matter of what the tool supports? Seems unlikely, to me, since I would have expected both chucks to be similar in design, in that respect, to be attachable to the same tools. Either save me from my ignorance or enlighten me as to what I am missing by favoring keyless? <Q> Keyed chucks still get a better grip on any bit. <S> I'm willing to use keyless on my portable drill -- though mine will take a key too, and there are times when I use it. <S> I wouldn't trust keyless on a drill press. <A> As @keshlam pointed out. <S> My drill presses both have keyed chucks and it allows much greater torque to put a stronger clamp on the bit. <S> This is really important for larger bits when you get over 1 1/2" say for keyhole saws or large Forstner bits. <S> There can be a lot of resistance <S> and I don't think most keyless chucks can do the job. <S> Even there I've had a keyhole come loose. <A> Self-tightening keyless chuck have similar clamping capabilities as keyed chucks, but the price premium on those types of chucks are significant. <S> For example from the Jacobs site linked, the cheapest 1/2inch self-tightening keyless chucks are $185. <A> As far as the historical side of the question, the two have been in concurrent use for a very long time. <S> Arthur Irving Jacobs invented the keyed drill chuck in 1902 but bit braces and drills were using a form of keyless chuck long before that. <S> The question might just as well have been 'why didn't the keyed chuck replace keyless?' <S> Part of the answer is, like most things, that every situation is unique and there are advantages and disadvantages to different designs. <S> Among the considerations are: -Rapidity of action <S> (keyless excels) versus holding strength (higher in keyed) <S> -Resolving <S> a jam (difficult with keyless) -Balance of manufacturing costs, quality, patent issues, user preference etc. <A> My cheapie light-duty drill press, which cost less than a good cordless drill, has not only a keyed chuck but a much larger one at that. <S> The key is scaled up in all ways relative to the hand-drill's. <S> My corded drill also has a keyed chuck just like my father's did 40 years ago. <S> Maybe that's cheaper? <S> Maybe people using a corded drill now are wanting unlimited power, higher reliability, and unquestioning grip on the bit or exotic thingie being chucked. <S> I also note that the keyed chuck is smaller around, and can fit in tight places where the keyless chuck does not, like drilling half an inch from a wall or post.
| Other than cost, one disadvantage of the keyless self-tightening chucks is that after some extreme high torque drilling, you might need a wrench to unscrew the chuck.
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How do I create a hole with a hole saw that is deeper than the tool? I'm specifically trying to drill hole saw holes of 2.5" in a 4"x4". How do I create a hole with a hole saw that is deeper than the tool? (The saw itself) Are there alternatives to hole saws for thicker material? <Q> You could drill as deep as the hole saw allows, then use a chisel to remove the "plug" left behind. <S> Then drill again with the hole saw. <S> One thing I would highly recommend anytime drilling using a hole saw is to give the chips a place to go. <S> In this scenario I would drill a smaller hole using a spade/forstener bit inside the hole but overlapping with where the hole saw will be cutting. <S> Like the red hole in this diagram: <S> In my experience this allows the hole saw to work much more efficiently. <A> One trick that will go (in this case) up to 5" is to drill as far as you can from one side, Drill a hole using the guide hole all the way through the wood, and then flip the board over using the guide hole to align the new cut from the opposite direction. <S> they should meet up. <A> Hole saw may not be the best tool for the task. <S> A Forstner bit or something of that sort might be more appropriate. <S> Even a spade bit might be a good choice depending on the material and the diameter of the hole. <A> Three other options come to mind, none are perfect although # 3 is not bad. <S> Toolmonger.com has very deep hole saw bits. <S> ( http://toolmonger.com/2009/08/14/extra-deep-hole-saw/ ) <S> But damn, these babies are pricey and you may need a drill with horsepower! <S> And good luck getting the wood block out of the drill if it wedges. <S> It will be tough to make the hole as clean as a drill bit would do it. <S> Cut the wood piece into two vertically, cut the cylindrical shape on the band saw, then glue the two pieces back together. <S> I did this on a series of carved wood vases with cylindrical glass vase inserts and the seams are impossible to find.
| You could cut the hole using multiple drillings and then clean out the edges with gouges.
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Can I expect an improved weekend shop experience from installing an air filtration system? I'm in my shop for a full day on average once a week. Many many people seem to have shops without air filtration systems and don't complain, though I have poor ventilation in my shop in general. Even so, only MDF tends to mess up the air quality noticeably. Can I expect an improved weekend shop experience from installing an air filtration system? At what point does such a system make sense as far as time spent in the shop? What specific benefits can I expect? <Q> What specific benefits can I expect? <S> Your health. <S> I have a large dust collector which I run most of the time I'm using large power tools. <S> While it does a pretty good job of keeping things 'clean' an has a 1 micron canister filter to keep from throwing the small stuff back into the air, it still doesn't catch everything. <S> And it is those small under 5 micron particles that are very dangerous to your health in long term exposure. <S> I have two different masks one for turning and one for sanding to help reduce my exposure, but I still need to get an air filter to mount on the ceiling. <S> The longer you are in your shop for extended periods <S> the more important it becomes to have cleaned air. <S> So while it might not be imperative to have one today, I would plan on one in the near future, especially if you are using your shop to teach others and have them spending time in there. <A> I also notice it helps keep my protective eyewear clean for a longer time. <S> Dust control is pretty important for me since I also do welding/grinding in my workshop and the fine wood dust is quite flammable. <S> Though I usually wear a respirator too when I do any kind of activities that create lots of dust or smoke. <S> I always use a respirator when I work with MDF, particleboard, or treated wood. <S> Those chemicals in the wood is bad for you. <A> Peace of mind really. <S> I've got one, way over spec'd for my shop size and it does a really good job of picking up the dust (based on the crap I have to clean out of it). <S> But generally the dust wasn't too noticeable before hand anyway until it had had some time to build up. <S> MDF etc <S> I make an effort to cut outside and you should always be wearing a mask anyway. <S> For me, the filter was more for family and the rest of the house - stops the dust from migrating through the house and messing up everybody elses lungs. <S> So from a practical stand point, the shop seems no cleaner (still get piles of shavings etc on the floor) and it hasn't changed my work flow (i still wear a mask, and cut MDF outside if possible), but a large chunk of the fine particulate is (presumably) no longer floating around.
| The main difference I see in my workshop with my dust collection and ventilation systems running is that I don't get dust over everything.
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How do I put a really long narrow straight hole in a piece of wood? I tried using a really long thin drill bit that probably had a different purpose (like maybe drywall stuff) to put a hole in a tobacco pipe project. But the bit blew out the side of the wood because it didn't drill straight. This pipe is about 20 inches long, and I need to drill about 16 of that. How do I put a really long narrow straight hole in a piece of wood? <Q> You can do it without using a drill. <S> See how pencils are made cut some square stock to length <S> saw it in half lengthways <S> cut a groove in each half <S> glue the halves together <S> shape the outside <S> (e.g. using a spokeshave and dowel plate) <S> There's a useful video of using a drill to make a hole in dowel. <S> In summary the technique shown is start with well oversize dowel use a variety of drill bit lengths starting with the shortest drill very slowly, a quarter-inch at a time. <S> use a spirit-level on the drill shape the dowel after drilling to take into account <S> the direction of the hole (which won't emerge at centre) <S> the curvature of the hole (ruling out using a lathe) <A> I don't think a hole this long is possible with any conventional drill bit, and finding a suitable one of this length which would be difficult to say the least. <S> And anyway there is a significant problem with drift or wander, particularly when drilling into end grain as you might be here. <S> Note: <S> this is even if the drilling is done on a drill press, the amount of wander can be quite amazing. <S> Even in the past when very long drill bits were more commonly seen as part of the woodworking tool kit (either augers to be turned directly with a wooden handle, or for use with a brace) once you got to very long lengths in relation to the diameter of the hole <S> it was common to use specialist bits made for that purpose only, for example shell bits. <S> Here's a modern shell auger to give an idea of what the traditional style looks like: <S> You'd start the hole with a normal bit or matching diameter, then slip the shell bit into the hole and continue from there. <A> But the bit blew out the side of the wood because it didn't drill straight. <S> I think you already identified your problem. <S> When you start doing things where small misalignments can lead to large issues, setup is key. <S> I've made a couple pipes before, though the draft hole was only about 3" long. <S> Even that took a large amount of measuring and tweaking to get the bit to exactly where I needed it and to drill straight. <S> This pipe is about 20 inches long, and I need to drill about 16 of that. <S> I won't lie, what you're trying to do is very difficult. <S> Your pipe stem is likely thin to begin with, so you have very little margin for error in the setup of your drill bit. <S> The only advise I can give is to check, re-check, and re-re-check your alignment before drilling and hope that the bit doesn't wander through the cut. <A> I'm facing a related issue, though not to tolerances so fine as you face. <S> In the course of my researches, I learnt how boat builders stay true while drilling a hole for a propeller drive shaft several metres through the keelboard. <S> They don't move the drill, they move the job using a jig similar to a saw table fence. <S> But instead of a circular saw blade there is a spinning auger perfectly parallel to both fence and table. <S> Build yourself a jig like this and you will be able to turn out Gandalf pipes by the dozen. <A> You need a "gun" drill, it cuts on one side . <S> It would costly for making a pipe. <S> Cost not a problem when you are drilling several expensive gun barrels.
| I suspect the only way you'll achieve this length of hole is if you can find a suitable shell auger bit or are willing to go to the trouble of making your own.
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Is vertical storage of sheet goods causing my boards to warp? I have a consistent problem with warped sheet goods, particularly plywood and MDF. They always seem flat when I buy them, but by the time I use them they are always curved or twisted. It's a source of constant frustration. Even 3/4" stuff gets a slight curve. The way I've always stored everything is simply to lean piles of it against a wall. I don't have a lot of space. After a recent comments discussion it dawned on me that this might be the problem: Totally off topic, but how did the MDF warp in the first place? I have this problem where none of my MDF stays straight, and it frustrates me because all I hear about is how stable MDF is. – Jason C The piece was stored vertically and had leaned a bit in the storage rack causing a slight twist. – Ashlar My question is: Could this be my problem? Can storing these sheets vertically be causing all the warping? If so, is there a way to store sheet goods vertically without damaging them? I don't have the space to stack them horizontally. <Q> MDF is heavy and we all know that. <S> Like keshlam says if it is not supported across its vertical span then it will pull itself down slowly warping it. <S> Gravity is a [w]itch. <S> Now if you cannot store it perfectly vertical then you are not out of options. <S> I couldn't imagine the space needed for some larger sheets however you should be able to get away from perfect verticals as long as you support it. <S> A half a-frame comes to mind in an effort to take up less space. <S> Idea being to discourage as much movement as possible. <S> I could hang onto wood for years until I know what I am doing with it. <S> This should be an efficient use of near vertical space. <S> Depending on design you could hide boards inside the frame as well if you are not up to wasting space. <S> Image from Orange County <S> Crating Lean the sheet but brace it as much as possible so as to not allow movement. <S> I suppose if you are worried about the edges, which can damage easily, then you could put down some cloth along the bottom to cushion it. <S> Depending on the size of your sheets this might not be realistic though. <S> Laying it flat also comes to mind but that is not something most workshops can entertain. <A> If you can stand it fully upright with support on both sides that will be less likely to happen. <S> Or you can figure out a way to support it lower down, so the middle can't sag. <S> Or, of course, you can lay it flat if you have space to do so (most folks don't). <S> Or delay buying until you're ready to use it, so it doesn't have time to pick up a bend. <A> Moisture can add to this problem. <S> Do not let the wood come in contact with cement or concrete block. <S> They will need to be supported in the back and possibly held down in the front. <S> Even when stored horizontal they can warp if moisture is present. <S> In the lumber yard they come in banded together but a few day after they cut the bands the top sheets may start to warp. <A> The answer by user1981 probably has the key. <S> The top and bottom sheets will warp cause just one side is sealed and the other is exposed to air. <S> Air exposure will allow it to take on or shed moisture depending on atmospheric conditions. <S> The side snugged up to the next sheet gets no contact with the air so the moisture content of the sheet is imbalanced and causes warp. <S> Note that all the sheets in the middle remain flat so store vertical and use spacers between sheets just like sticker boards when drying fresh sawn lumber.
| If you lean stuff against a wall at an angle, it's weight will tend to cause it to bow.
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Enlarging a Hole made by a Hole Saw I drilled several holes in my desk to put some grommets using a 7/8" hole saw bit. Unfortunately, I realized afterwards that the hole was supposed to be 1" to fit my grommets. Then, despite knowing better, I used my 1" hole saw bit in an attempt to make the holes the correct size. Although I was able to make the hole larger, the new hole did not come out clean at all. The obvious solution to this would be to clamp a piece of plywood behind the hole to use as a pilot. However, the position of the holes make this solution pretty unfeasible - they are in the back of the shelf of a large hutch - i would need to get a very long piece of wood with some huge clamps in order to make that solution work (unless I am missing something): What is the best way of fixing this? I could get the next larger size of grommet (1.5") and make the hole larger, but which bit would be the best for this task? I have never used a Forstner bit - but it looks like it might be promising. Thoughts? <Q> Lee Valley <S> (I'm sure you can get it elsewhere) sells a product called an Oops Arbor that allows you to mount two hole saws to a single arbor. <S> The smaller one is held further out from the larger one allowing it to support itself as it drills. <A> If you are unable to move the piece or provide additional access (as you describe), then another approach might be to cut a wood plug the same diameter as the current hole and glue it in place in the hole. <S> Once it is set up you can begin drilling again using the larger bit. <A> Then flip the piece over, attach a bottom-bearing flush-trim bit, and set the depth so it bears against the edge of the rabbet you just cut. <S> You can calculate the width of the cut by subtracting the diameter of the bearing from the diameter of the rabbeting bit and dividing by two. <S> E.g. if your rabbet bit is 3/4" diameter has a guide bearing of 1/2", it would give you the extra 1/8" you need, as would any combination of bit/bearing where the difference in diameters = 1/4". <A> With your 1.5" holesaw, cut a nice hole in a chunk of scrap plywood. <S> Clamp this to the location of the old hole, and drill away. <S> (Unless you plan to wrestle your desk to a drill press, the forstner will do you no good at all.) <A> Just solved this very problem. <S> Existing 22mm holes and needed 30mm. <S> Went to my wood supplier and got a short length of 22mm dowel. <S> Cut off short lengths to suit depth of existing holes. <S> Glued around the rim at the top of the hole and hammered the short dowel lengths in flush to work surface. <S> When dried, re-cut holes to new 30 mm dimension. <S> Mike
| If you and can disassemble the piece and have a router with a rabbet bit, you can enlarge the hole by going around with depth set less than the full thickness of the material and the bearing against the edge of the hole.
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Where should the trademark be placed on a baseball bat? As a kid during the days of Little League (my last close contact with baseball), we always admonished one another not to hit the ball on the trademark of the bat. You'll break it! Well, occasionally one of us would manage to break a bat, but we never knew whether the trademark was involved. Where should the trademark be placed to lessen chances of breaking or does burning a trademark into the barrel weaken the bat? <Q> Is there any truth to breaking a bat by hitting on the trademark <S> Yes there is. <S> Traditionally the logo or label is located in a specific orientation to the grain in the wood, leading to the guideline that the logo should face the sky or the ground ("logo up or logo down") <S> meaning you would be hitting the ball at 90° to the position of the logo. <S> As one manufacturer puts it: There is a proper side to hit on, so be sure to also see the answer to the next question. <S> ... <S> [by orienting the label up or down] you'll be making contact with the area on the "side" of the bat where the grains are layered---the strongest "side" of the bat. <S> Unfortunately, and as usual, it's not quite as simple as that because more than one species is used to make baseball bats and they have quite different structures. <S> Also there is more than one type of breakage/failure (in the handle area or the barrel). <S> More info here on WoodBats. <S> Org . <S> does burning a trademark into the barrel weaken the bat? <S> If it's placed in the traditional location, I doubt it. <S> It's at a right angle to the primary forces <S> the bat is (should be) subjected to, so it should normally have no effect. <S> A burned-in logo would normally only involve the surface anyway. <S> It is possible that if you burn very deeply it might compromise the wood if the logo is placed atypically, but I think that you'd have to have both conditions met for it to affect a bat's strength — so both burned far too deep and in the wrong orientation to the grain. <A> I've just done a bit of research (OK... I did a google image search, but the results seem to be consistent) and it seems like the logo is always burned into / painted onto the same part of the bat, in relation to the grain direction: <S> Notice that the logo is in the same orientation as the growth ring lines of the bat. <S> This makes a lot of sense in the context of the advice "don't hit the ball with the logo side" since the wood will separate more readily between the growth rings than it will at 90° to this. <S> Essentially what you're trying to avoid is this, which is separation along the growth rings: <S> So, I suspect it's not the act of burning / painting the logo onto the bat that weakens it, rather that the position of the logo is chosen based on the grain direction, which is what determines the directional strength of the bat. <S> The way I've seen it explained is like the difference between hitting a ball with the edge of a deck of cards or the face. <S> The broken bat image is from here <S> which is a site which seems to have some good info on wooden bats. <S> The link above actually has some good info about different wood types etc. <S> and growth ring density affect a bat's performance. <S> Generally though the rule about placing the logo on the flat of the grain, and avoiding hitting the ball with the logo stands. <A> That is correct, the trademark side of the bat should not be used to hit the ball. <S> Hitting the ball with this area has a higher chance of breaking the bat, since it's the weakest point on the bat. <S> That's not to say that any hit on the trademark will instantly shatter your bat, or that hitting off the trademark makes a bat indestructible, but the chances are higher. <S> When going to bat, you should be looking at the trademark when you hold the bat up in front of you, so that the ball hits about 90 degrees from the trademark. <S> I learned this directly from the manufacturer, at the Louisville Slugger factory in Louisville, KY.
| The trademark is stamped on the weakest part of the bat - notice it's always in the same position with relation to the grain of the wood.
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Finger Joints on a 2x10 I am remodeling my kids sandbox and shrinking it from 12'x 8' to 8'x8' square. It is approximately 25" in depth. I will be using two "boxes" on top of each other made of redwood 2x10s. I am wondering how easily (or even possibly) I could make finger joints to join the corners of the wood in order to make them as strong as possible. If this is a possibility, would be using a jig saw and some chisels be my best bet to make it happen? <Q> Some tips: <S> Carefully mark both sides of the joint, making sure to mark the waste clearly. <S> When cutting the waste with the jigsaw, cut away from the line, into the waste area. <S> This will make the waste area a little too small, and can be fine tuned with the chisel. <S> Fine tune the joint by dry-fitting, trimming a little and fitting again. <S> Do this until the joint is snug (meaning you can join the parts by hand with some effort, but don't need a mallet to force the parts together). <S> Use the jigsaw to cut away as much of the waste as possible, reducing the amount of wood you need to trim with the chisel. <S> Keep your chisels sharp. <S> Even though it's just redwood, a sharp chisel is always much easier (and safer) to work with than a dull one. <S> Also, since this goes outdoors, make sure to use a water-proof wood glue, such as Titebond III. <A> I would be wary of this approach myself. <S> Joinery works best when you have a near perfect fit with no gaps. <S> In my experience My jigsaw is terrible at cutting vertically through a simple 2x4 ' <S> s. <S> I expect you might have gaps that won't make good glue joints. <S> That is unless you make sure you leave a good chunk of waste for the chisels to clean after so as to be sure you stay in the lines as well. <S> Given the size of your wood I can't imagine that your fingers are going to be too small. <S> Obviously you are not against hand tools <S> so I would suggest a simple crosscut saw. <S> You would still need to clean with chisels but some might consider this more fulfilling of a project using just hand tools! <S> Can't emphasize enough the importance of outdoor glue if you choose to go this route. <S> Finger joints expose more of the wood to the elements so you are creating more potential crevasses for water an potentially ice depending where you live. <S> Both can reduce the effectiveness of the joint and appearance over time. <S> For added strength you could drill down into the fingers (from the top and after assembled) and glue a dowel in there. <S> That is most likely not necessary though. <S> Also could be difficult making a ~10 inch hole and keeping it straight. <A> Skip the box joints and consider some type of joinery which offers mechanical resistance in at least one direction. <S> For example, mortise and tenon or hand-cut dovetails resist movement along one axis. <S> The amount of effort you'll expend using a jigsaw and cleaning up the cuts with a chisel will almost certainly exceed the effort required to join the corners with hand-cut dovetails. <S> With the box joints, you won't gain the inherent mechanical resistance; and if you have a cheap jigsaw (<$100), your cuts will require a good amount of cleanup, regardless of the blade you use, simply because the guides on cheaper jigsaws allow the blade to deflect more easily. <S> Also keep in mind that, as a sandbox, the corners will have to resist a tremendous amount of pressure and movement as the humidity changes day-to-day. <S> Be careful with your selection of glue, as PVA glue can "creep" or allow movement under constant tension and/or with high temperatures. <S> Polyurethane glue hardens during curing and does not melt or creep once cured.
| A jigsaw and chisels are quite adequate for making finger joints in thick stock like that.
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Supporting a level box on an uneven surface I am building some 6' x 2' x 1.5' (depth) cedar planter boxes for specific locations on concrete outdoors. The boxes need to sit as close to the ground as possible, a few inches max. I am building three of them. The concrete is neither level nor flat (eyeballing it I would say it's up to a 2-3" height difference in some places), and throwing down a level concrete pad is not an option. The challenge is that the boxes will probably each be holding about 1500-1800 lbs of soil. Additionally, they will have little kids climbing all over them, so it's important that they do not wobble and that any supports underneath do not collapse. The other challenge is they sit against a wall. So I will only have direct access to one side once they are fully built. Currently the basis for the design is pretty simple. I plan to build a pretty standard floor frame with 2x3 or 2x4 joists every 18"-ish, with the box built on top of it. But I'm not sure how to build supports to level it. The shape of the ground is very complex and doesn't lend itself well to simple measurements and cuts. Also I don't want to paint myself into a corner and make it impossible to build, I need to construct it in such a way that I don't have to tear the whole thing apart if I don't get it level on the first try. The boxes don't have to move once they are placed. They will be there until they rot. How can I do this? How can I build a stable, level support for 1500+ lbs on an uneven concrete surface? I am thinking about using those adjustable height feet with threaded rod, perhaps 8 of them around the perimeter of the base frame. Then I can level them before placing the box on top when I still have access to all the corners. But I don't have experience with these, and I'm concerned that they may wobble and collapse with sideways force. I had also thought about cutting 2x4s to the contour of the ground and sitting everything on those. But I don't know how to transfer the ground contours to a cut pattern (Intel has those cool cheap 3D cameras out and I honestly considered grabbing one, but I don't have enough time to wait for one to arrive then develop software to generate contours), and when I run through this idea in my head, I see all sorts of opportunity for frustration. <Q> I would build the support frame for under the boxes, just the frame (out of treated 2x4's). <S> Then find your where you want the boxes to rest. <S> Then you scribe your 2x4's with a compass. <S> You get your frame some what level, then set the compass (generally to the max gap, but only if you want the whole frame resting on the ground) and go around with the compass point on the ground and where the ground pushes up, the pencil will mark the board where it needs to be cut to 'relieve' the ground underneath. <S> I had to do this a bit with my dad's log home. <S> All trim had to be scribed to get a nice fit with the logs. <S> Once you have your frame ready (and <S> mark where the corners are on the concrete!) <S> you can attach it to the bottom of your boxes. <A> I think your concerns with the adjustable height feet may be unfounded, especially if you only need to raise the boxes by 2-3". <S> I doubt that they would collapse with sideways force if you source the heaviest-duty ones you can find. <S> Alternatively, it's pretty common when building things like this to pack the box on pieces of slate. <S> Slate is easily broken up and stacked in thin layers to overcome unevenness like this <S> and it's very good at supporting heavy loads i.e. it won't crumble. <A> Then fill the frame completely with something like plaster of Paris, which being liquid originally, automatically forms a horizontal surface. <S> Remove wooden frame, and sand the fill (the plaster, or whatever you decide to use) has set, filling in any unsightly gaps in edges, for example, where the sanded filling was, with the same substance. <A> Adjustable "threaded rod" type of feet are a stable solution that will support a lot of weight, and they're basically wobble-free at such small heights (even more so if a thousand pounds rests on them, consider that the Newtonian laws apply to 1000-pound objects in particular, these do not move easily). <S> They do cost quite a bit of money, too. <S> However, the "technically correct" approach is a different one, and it can be done with the wood that you already have. <S> A 2x4 will support virtually every weight if used as "foot". <S> If it's not necessary that the dirt boxes can also serve as dinner table, but "approximately level, as good as the naked eye can tell" is good enough <S> (I daresay it is!) <S> , then you can even just cut the feet so they only approximately have the correct height. <S> There is no real need to be perfectly accurate to the millimeter. <S> As long as each box has 3 feet, it's all good. <S> Even if it may be slightly off level, the box is always guaranteed not to wobble. <S> There is no way a tripod will do that in a 3D world. <A> I would look into a sand base much like you would build for deck pavers. <S> It self levels can support tremendous loads. <S> If you were concerned with aesthetics, you could fashion some trim pre-treated shoe molding to fit at the bottom of the box to hide/contain the sand.
| If you use three feet per box (not four), you are guaranteed that nothing can shake or wobble. You could build a square or rectangular wooden frame, level to the top of this, using long spirit levels, filling any gaps below due to uneven ground, with, say, moist sand.
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Which kind of hinges for a foldable box? This is the top view of a kind of folding box, actually a henhouse. The goal is to meet those three requirements: totally foldable when not in use, as flat as possible so that it's easy to move and store. a free standing position when a wall is not available (area=100) an against the wall position when it's possible to use an existing wall. Each panel would be a light frame with chicken wire attached on it. How can I solve the problem with the second hinge. It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges. <Q> I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges. <S> You could always use hinges that are designed to have the pins removed regularly. <S> These are called "loose pins," and resemble that depicted below. <S> You would install them so that they fold in the direction you want for your box and arch configurations and just take the pins out for storage. <S> Edit: now that I look at it again, these types of hinges would be very useful for your box configuration since they can "complete" the square and keep it from coming apart while still being disassemble-able, which is something that the two-way hinges can't do. <S> ( source ) Edit #2 <S> : As you've indicated, where you live you haven't been able to find these types of hinges. <S> They would be simple enough to make with normal hinges by removing the pin and replacing it with a custom-fit pin that you make yourself. <S> A bent nail would work (the ones linked above recommend a 20 penny nail as a replacement pin, for example). <A> What you need is a double acting hinge. <S> Different manufacturer's make variations but essentially they have two sets of pivots so that the door leaf can swing in either direction. <A> How can I solve the problem with the second hinge. <S> It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. <S> I don't see how this could be solved with permanently attached hinges. <S> Two way hinges are wonderful things. <S> This illustration shows how they work <S> and you can Google " <S> two way hinges" and find many many suppliers. <S> Image from here <S> You are going to have a more fundamental problem which is that with flexible hinges you have an unstable structure. <S> Even if the the ends that touch the ground a firmly anchored, but still able to rotate the thing will collapse. <S> edit : Oops. <S> I misunderstood your drawings. <S> I assumed that we were looking at your pen in elevation. <S> It's actually viewed from above, just as you said. <S> Sorry. <S> No bracing needed. <A> What about offset hinges. <S> So the rotation axis when fully closed is in the middle. <S> And when opened to wall will close the gap. <S> There's still a small gap when in freestanding mode. <S> The connection would only be on top and bottom wrapping around the panels in the middle (or reaching through a notch in those panels).
| It needs to somehow rotate in both directions. I have seen spring action double hinges at home centers, but you can also call a local hardware supply company for variations.
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How can I change speeds on my old lathe? I recently purchased a Shopmaster L-500 lathe. It has been restored to its original condition, unfortunately it did not include a manual. This particular lathe has a 4-stepped pulley in the headstock and originally had a 4 step pulley on the motor (though the restored motor has only three.) Researching about pulley drives on lathes, I have heard mention of a Reeve's Drive , but I don't think that this is an actual Reeve's mechanism because there is no facility to push or pull the pulleys to move the belt. Does anyone with an older vintage lathe have any suggestions on how to properly change the speed of the lathe? Here's a view of the headstock and the pulleys inside: And here's a photo at the motor: <Q> I have the same lathe. <S> I don't know how the previous owner changed speeds, as it was screwed to the workbench. <S> When I got it home, I built a stand for it. <S> I mounted the motor on a 2x6, which i fastened to the stand with a hinge. <S> On the other side, I cut a slot to fit over a bolt that sticks out of the stand. <S> So, when I need to change the speed, I just loosen the wingnut on the bolt, raise the motor on the hinge, change pulleys, set the motor down and fasten the wingnut. <S> Takes all of 30 seconds to change speeds. <A> My PSI lathe was similar (though a bit smaller) and there was a locking mechanism that I had to loosen so the motor would 'raise' a little releasing the tension on the belt, then I could move the belt to what ever set of pulleys' I wanted. <S> One thing I noticed about yours is that the motor has fewer pulleys' than the head of the lathe. <S> 3 vs. 4. <S> Most I've seen have 1 - 1 in this kind of configuration. <S> So as the head wheel gets smaller the motor wheel increases in diameter. <S> What I don't know is if this was designed to be a 4 speed (and the new motor doesn't have enough pulleys') <S> or more like an 8 speed where you can use one or 2 pulleys next to each other, <S> but that seems unlikely. <S> What ever you use to loosen the belt need to make sure when it is tightened it is fairly snug, since that will transfer more power to turn and less likely for the chisel to catch and hold the piece instead of cutting it. <A> I found some sort of "quick start" manual for this lathe here . <S> In the parts list there the motor spindle also has 4 steps. <S> It seems likely that the your 3-step spindle is not the original part, so don't be surprised by the belt not lining up for every position. <S> In any case, while it's not a full manual, it does say (emphasis mine): <S> To place belt on head stock pulley remove 3 Allen head set screws on bearing plate and remove shaft from Head Stock . <S> The bearing plate is: <S> So I imagine this is the procedure you'd to follow to move the belt as well, although I cannot say for certain what other steps may be involved. <S> In particular it does not mention tensioning the belt so you may have to poke around and look for a release mechanism, if there even is one. <S> I would not mount the belt at an angle. <S> I am certain that guide is for the L-500. <S> According to some catalogs from the 50's (and one from 1953 , with an awesome first page illustration) <S> the L-500 was their only lathe at the time, so that must be the lathe. <A> My lathe is similar, though not identical, so this may not apply, but so long as you don't have too much tension on the belt, you shouldn't need tools and you shouldn't need to loosen and shift the motor each time. <S> (This also works for changing the speeds on a drill press) <S> The two pulleys are straight opposites of one another - as one gets bigger, the other gets smaller. <S> This means that once the belt is on, regardless of which speed it is at, the tension required will be the same. <S> So, to shift speed, change belt positions like you'd remove a bike chain - push the belt on one pulley towards the next smaller sized ring, whilst turning (slowly and by hand!) <S> the belt so that the rotation of the pulley pushes the belt off. <S> Once it's slipped off the first ring, there should be pretty much no tension and you can shift the belt to the new position. <S> To get the belt back on, reverse the process. <A> I'll weigh in with the radical fringe - normal solutions seem pretty well covered. <S> In my personal experience, the best thing you can do is to swap the motor for an industrial DC or 3-phase motor and run that motor from a variable speed drive suited to what type of motor it is. <S> These days 3-phase driven by a VFD seems to be most common/cheapest, though if you are willing to pick up craigslist free treadmills and take them apart, you may find a nice DC variable speed system inside it (with, IMPE, somewhat inflated ideas of its horsepower, but still fine for a mid-sized or smaller lathe.) <S> A that point, the stepped pulley is just a torque/top-speed selector. <S> It is a world of difference being able to get just the speed you want with the twist of a dial (and without the squealing of a Reeves drive.) <S> Harmonic vibrations are easily avoided by making small speed changes. <S> Additional note - if there's room (there probably is) <S> the "link or twist" belts are a much nicer way to change belts than pulling the spindle to change the belt. <S> Since they can be twisted apart to change the number of links, you can get any length you like and break the belt to thread it onto the lathe, then re-make it, rather than pulling the spindle. <S> Whatever drive you use (including the fixed speed one) it's a very good idea to have a shutoff at BOTH ends of the lathe.
| With your current setup you're limited to 3 speeds unless you can slide the motor spindle around a bit.
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What finish should I use to make a bowl "microwave-safe"? I want to give a turned bowl to someone as a gift, but I know they will inevitably use these bowls in the microwave. From my own experience of force-drying wood in the microwave, I know it can get hot to the touch after about 30 seconds, depending on moisture level. Are there any finish solutions for making "microwave-safe" wood items for serving food on? <Q> Are there any finish solutions for making "microwave-safe" wood items for serving food on? <S> It's not so much a question of "microwave-safe" finishes as "microwave-safe" materials. <S> Microwaves work by exciting water molecules, thereby increasing their energy (i.e., heating them up). <S> The reason your wooden bowl gets hot is because of the water trapped in the wood fibers. <S> I would strongly advise against microwaving a finished wood bowl for not only the risk of burning one's self on it, but also because the rapid heating of the water in the bowl can cause it to crack. <S> I want to give a turned bowl to someone as a gift, <S> but I know they will inevitably use these bowls in the microwave. <S> Very clearly tell the intended recipient that wooden bowls are not microwave safe . <S> If someone uses the bowl improperly and it breaks, yes, that sucks for them, but you're not at fault having told them. <S> Common sense has to factor into things sometimes . <S> By the way, not only would I tell them to not microwave the bowl, but don't soak it in water, and don't put it through the dishwasher either. <A> I would seriously suggest you just get them a glass or plastic bowl if you want to gift them one <S> you know they'll want to use in a microwave :-) <S> Regular microwaving is not a good environment for wood since it'll heat it and drive out moisture. <S> Up to a point this doesn't do any harm as you'll have some idea about from your force-drying experience, but if you've ever overdone the microwaving as I have (causing the water in the wood to boil) <S> you'll know there are some issues. <S> First thing I'll mention is the one that will be most immediately apparent: the smell . <S> If they do overheat the bowl even just once and it boils the intrinsic water they'll create wood steam and the smell of this is not exactly conducive to fine dining <S> (think paper mill <S> and you'll have some idea)! <S> Worst still, that odour will linger in the microwave for months . <S> Trust me that's no exaggeration, I speak from experience. <S> In terms of the safety of the bowl, past a certain level and the wood will end up way dryer than is natural. <S> With repeat use the moisture level will cycle up and down excessively (most especially if they wash it). <S> I think you could bet money on this leading to warping or cracking , even if the wood used in the turning was straight-grained and clear. <S> More seriously given enough microwave exposure there's even a risk of fire . <S> If the wood happened to be very dry already, from being microwaved recently and/or because of local conditions, and it was then microwaved for a good amount of time you could get localised scorching. <S> And once the wood is charred it's just a small step to ignition (same basic principle as char cloth ). <A> While you can often get away with wood in a microwave you shouldn't. <S> Or if you do, mass-produced cheap things but not something presumably valued. <S> Similarly for the dishwasher - I put some wooden things in there but nothing that couldn't be replaced cheaply and easily. <S> But to be honest, finished wood and hot wet foods don't mix well, so <S> using it in the microwave would be rather pointless (except I suppose for warming bread). <S> Varnishes tend to crack or peel while oils (even food safe ones) can give a taste to the food. <A> I have stained my cutting boards and place hot pizza pans on them with no effect. <S> However they still will warp with constant water left on them. <S> I would suggest you have two options. <S> Rubbing mineral spirits or butchers block oil and finish with cheesecloth or tack cloth. <S> When in doubt test on the wood in question. <S> Stain <S> a scrap of wood then buy a cheap heat gun. <S> Use the heat gun for a prolonged amount of time to see its affects. <S> This will prevent any damages to actual equipment tests. <S> It will also assure you of your friends sanity. <S> On food contacted stains <S> I like it to rest for a month if not weeks to make sure the stain completely soaks in. <S> Also make sure to take a plain cloth and wipe any access stain buildup. <S> You usually do this after 24 hours of curing.. <A> When creating wood products that will be used with food. <S> Either dry, wet or microwaved the guidelines are generally the same for all the above. <S> The microwave doesn't change anything. <S> The wood item will simply wear out quicker if it is microwaved. <S> The point here is to keep it non-toxic and food safe. <S> Microwaved, dishwasher or washed in the sink. <S> You don't want to leach any poisons into the food as a result. <S> I make butcher blocks. <S> They are easy to make and people love them as gifts. <S> Here's what I follow as guidelines. <S> Select a hard wood to ensure durability and reduce the pick up of moisture that can lead to growth of mold. <S> Use non-toxic wood, and <S> yes there are hardwoods that contain poisons. <S> Use food grade wood glue. <S> You can buy non-toxic wood glue at most hardware stores now. <S> The only natural non-toxic finish <S> I know of is bees wax. <S> It seals and provides a semi-gloss finish. <S> While bees wax is the most recommended. <S> I've not liked the results. <S> What I use is butcher block finishing oil. <S> It's non-toxic and food safe. <S> Some of my blocks are over 5 years old and still safe to use.
| I recommend cherry, maple, oak and chestnut.
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Applying clamping pressure on opposing sides of a circle I was in a boardroom and I noticed that one of the clocks had dropped off its nail and it broke the frame in two places. I assumed is was a very cheap clock made with plywood or some other engineered material. To my surprise it was laminated solid wood. The repair for this seems simple enough. Just need to glue it. Issue is that I want to provide clamping pressure perpendicular to the direction of the crack. That is not easily done. Now, it would probably suffice to clamp on sides (shown in the picture as the right and left sides) and get a pretty good seal. Let's play and pretend that this clock is something more important and I want to be sure the clamping pressure is as close the to crack as possible. How can that be done? I picture a jig of the same diameter as the circle so that it can't bow out but I wonder if there are simpler ideas. Likely this would apply as well to other things and not just circles... other polygons with a large number of sides. <Q> I picture a jig of the same diameter as the circle so that it can't bow out <S> but I wonder if there are simpler ideas. <S> Likely this would apply as well to other things and not just circles... <S> other polygons with a large number of sides. <S> Lots of people use ratchet straps to clamp odd shapes together: ( source ) <S> These are nice because they apply a consistent pressure around the shape and will keep it from bowing out. <S> This would be like <S> these conduit clamps on a related Question here. <S> The repair for this seems simple enough. <S> Just need glue it. <S> Issue is that I want to provide clamping pressure perpendicular to the direction of the crack. <S> That is not easily done. <S> Now, it would probably suffice to clamps on sides (shown in the picture as the right and left sides) and get a pretty good seal. <S> For the size piece you're working with, clamping from opposing sides will probably be sufficient since the pieces are pretty stiff with comparison to the span. <S> You could put a "bumper" clamp next to the splits to control the tendency to bow outward too (similar to a caul for keeping table tops flat during glue-ups). <A> I have used ratcheting band clamps on curved shapes with very good results. <S> ( I could not find an image using the clamp on a circular form, but the principle is the same.) <S> Rather than applying pressure in a single direction it provides uniform pressure towards the center. <A> Why not use 3 regular clamps? <S> You could put one directly over the crack to keep it aligned and then two more crossing at about 90 degrees to push the two sides together. <S> Another idea is that if there is enough thickness you could use something like a bed bolt in the back of the clock to draw the cracks together and hold them while the glue sets. <S> There would be no reason to take them out after either. <S> Just some thoughts.
| Otherwise, one idea that might work is a clamshell-type jig where you take a square piece of plywood, cut it in half, cut out the shape of the thing you want to clamp (half on each side) and then use that to clamp the shape back together.
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How to choose desirable oak slabs for projects I'm new to woodworking and have recently been given the opportunity to pick up free logs of a recently felled oak tree. (I believe logs is the proper term here, correct me if I'm wrong. Cords? Slabs?) I have been on the hunt for this opportunity for a while as i have been thinking up projects that would take advantage of this opportunity. I want to make a coffee/side table with the widest piece of the trunk, bar stool seats, and maybe some bowl and spoons carving projects while its green as well as anything else i can come up with along the way. My concern is that i go and move all these big heavy pieces of oak only to realize that the pieces just aren't suitable for what i have in mind. I certainly don't want to waste oak just for being a foolish novice. Can anyone provide any advice or links on how to pick good large logs/slabs of lumber? Particularly relating to any project i mentioned above? Picture of the cut tree: <Q> I would suggest finding a copy of R. Bruce Hoadley's Understanding Wood. <S> He details how wood shrinks (and why logs splits radially or checks if left unattended). <S> He also touches on how wood should dry if obtained when green/freshly cut and what part of the tree is used <S> http://www.tauntonstore.com/understanding-wood-2nd-edition-r-bruce-hoadley-070490.html <S> Generally the clearest wood is above the roots and below the first of the branches. <S> Burls can occur anywhere and can be quite beautiful. <S> Branches are usually avoided (see reaction wood https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reaction_wood ) but folks have found uses for most parts. <S> The biggest factor to note is that full circles (across the full trunk) will usually split. <S> see <S> https://wunderwoods.wordpress.com/2014/10/19/round-cut-tops-almost-always-split/ <S> depending on how the wood is cut will determine how it will shrink. <S> http://www.nzffa.org.nz/assets/812/shrinkage2.jpg <A> Trying my best to answer this for you. <S> With knots no matter where they are can be hard/bad to cut through. <S> Every time I use the table saw it wants to kick back while getting really hard difficult because the grain pattern around the wood can pinch the blade. <S> So avoid those in wood unless you want them in and you simply cut around it. <S> On the end of the wood you should look at the grain pattern as well. <S> You can tell if it is going to warp by looking if there are more curvy grain patterns over straighter lines. <S> Usually want to cut them into 3 inch strips, rearrange them so they do not warp, and glue, if you are getting what i am saying. <S> I believe I covered the whole thing. <S> By doing this it should not warp the table top and your set. <A> It's pretty simple, at least to start with; find pieces with minimal cracking and splitting. <S> Once you have the wood, you have to dry it because it will be moist. <S> It will have a strong sappy odor. <S> The best way to dry it is to cut off all the bark, then seal the ends with "lumber sealer". <S> You want all the moisture to escape only radially, not through the ends. <S> It will take about 2 years for the wood to dry <S> and then it will be ready for use. <S> If you put the wood out on sunny days it will dry faster, but do not let it get rained on. <S> If you put the lumber out in the sun, rotate it every 30 minutes so it gets evenly heated. <S> Do not allow one side to get hot. <S> If you are thinking two years is a long time, that is the price of good lumber and why good hardwood is expensive: <S> the drying. <S> Commercial lumber is kiln dried which damages the wood and makes it inferior compared to air dried, aged lumber. <S> Green lumber is MUCH cheaper than dried lumber. <S> I remember the first time I bought green lumber, which was a bunch of white oak beams I bought. <S> The lady says, that will be eighty-one, sixty-seven please. <S> I was like, wow, the beams are nice but <S> $8000 seems like a lot (I had been expecting about $1000). <S> She answered, no, $81 dollars and 67 cents.
| If you are looking at getting a good piece of wood I would watch the grain in the wood and knots.
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Is there nothing that can't be made from wood? (Can you top this?) A couple days ago I had an idea for a question to embrace the spirit of April Fools day. I wanted to write a supposedly serious question about an absurd wood project with odd, tongue in cheek, problems. This would give viewers a chance to have some fun with clever answers. It turns out the joke was on me. As I checked out every odd idea I had for the wood project, I found that someone had actually done it in wood!. It then occurred to me just how great woodworking can be. The media, wood, is kind of mundane, but the results are often incredible. I know that this is intended as an answer site for specific woodworking questions based on facts and avoids open ended questions, but I find the creativity in the woodworking community remarkable and couldn't resist asking. Close this if you must, but I would invite others to share their most incredible woodworking finds as answers. I've provided a couple answers to get things started.but please add more. Don't simply post a picture, share why it inspires or amuses you. <Q> Wood Automobiles. <S> I remember woodies being a thing. <S> However, these cars are something special, a marriage between love of woodcraft and the automobile. <S> The amount of carving and freehand shaping needed is atonishing. <S> I think Tesla should consider wood for the Tesla IV. <S> http://www.ukiedaily.com/blog/2012/07/ukrainian-wooden-car-for-sale/ http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-516687/The-worlds-wooden-supercar-faster-Porsche-Lamborghini.html <A> Wood submarine. <S> Wood floats! <S> The idea of making a submersible expresses wit, dogged determination, and a lack of understanding of basic physics!!The question of why someone thought this was a good idea amazes me. <S> http://www.travelinginspain.com/barcelona/ictineo.htm <A> People have done alot with wood. <S> As for carvings, 3D cutting boards and so much more. <S> There is tons of stuff out there to blow your mind! <S> http://tagwoodworking.com/projects/3d-cutting-board-5/ <S> https://m.viator.com/photo/bangkok/floating-markets-and-bridge-on-river-kwai-tour-from-bangkok/0-8-3685BKK29C/photo.htm <S> Stuff like this.
| Cars, usually trucks or wagons with wood panels applied to the side, and really great for conveying surfers to the beach.
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cutting a circle wider on top than the bottom I want to recreate something I did at college, namely, a circular plug which I can replace with a different wood. I cannot work out how to get the angle of the saw to make the plug wedge shaped to fit the hole. Hope someone can help. Pickles. <Q> If you have a matched set of a reamer and a tenon cutter <S> this is easy (folks like Lee Valley sell such sets). <S> You can create pair as well; searching for Windsor chair-making tools will lead you to a few approaches. <S> A lathe can also make a taper and hole can be drilled straight and widen by diagonally drilling or by filing with a rat hole file. <S> http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/joinery/chair-joinery-tapered-tenons-tapered-mortises shows Chris Schwartz wielding a reamer and tenon cutter to fit legs <A> If you are taking a dowel of some sort and want to make it, for example, 1/2" at the top but more like 3/8" at the bottom then this is how i would do it. <S> Using a bit (like in the picture) to make a plug like i was talking about. <S> I would use a table router. <S> You would need to put a board on the guide of the router table to make it easy. <S> The way i described would work it is just the setup you need to be worried about, and play it safe! <S> Hopefully this helps! <A> You didn't say how large your plug was, but I'm thinking 2" or larger in diameter. <S> This is something wooden boat builders do every day. <S> This is no different in cutting out a transom for the back of a wooden boat. <S> In this wooden boat the rear of the boat starts to narrow at the transom (that flat board at the rear of the boat. <S> That means the front surface of the transom is larger than the aft surface of the transom. <S> (Hint, same as your plug...) <S> The key lesson here is: To make woodworking easier take the time to mark up ALL CUTS on all visible surfaces of your workpiece. <S> Again, you carefully mark the edge line of BOTH surfaces, top and bottom of the work. <S> Obviously for your plug, one circle will be a smaller diameter than circle on the other side of the workpiece. <S> Cut out your 'plug' to the larger diameter. <S> Now place the workpiece on your bench, with the smaller diameter facing up. <S> Use a hold down to keep the work from moving. <S> Use a sharp chisel to pare off the edge to the top line, leaving the bottom edge untouched. <S> Much easier than leaving blood on a power tool. <S> Good for plugs from 2" to 8' in diameter! <S> Do note, on that transom shown in this photo, the bevel angle varies huge around the workpiece... <S> you've got it easy with a 'plug'. <S> One more comment... with this method, you are not limited to circles.. <S> you can draw any shape you want... <S> rectangles, square, butterfly dovetail insert, etc....
| I would take a dowel and run it by and then cut it off at the top with the table saw.
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What do I need to know before I lacquer a custom painted guitar body? I have a stratocaster body that a friend of mine has painted, I know I need to lacquer it before I do anything else, like sorting out the electrics etc. I'm just unsure what lacquer to use so that I don't accidentally ruin the artwork on the body or something. This is the first guitar I'm attempting to build so this is all pretty new to me. <Q> In this case the safest bet (you should still check with the artist about the kind of paint used) would be to utilize a waterborne sealer. <S> The technology has come a long way and is as durable if not more so than old fashioned sealers (poly, lacquer etc). <S> As additional bonuses, the smell is far less offensive, it dries more quickly, and is not prone to yellowing. <S> As far as application goes I would suggest spraying it on if you have the facilities/tools. <S> An HVLP sprayer is great for projects like this, it conserves material when you are working on small objects. <S> To avoid any damage to the artwork apply very light coats until you have a full seal, and do NOT sand until you have a solid base of coating built up. <S> Sand light with large numbered grits (at least 200 probably, or 000+ steel wool). <S> Once you have a full seal you can apply thicker coats that take longer to dry. <A> I agree with the comments above re: testing on scrap and asking what paint was used. <S> However, it's really difficult to get that classic high gloss finish out of a water based varnish. <S> Best bet is to read Bob Flexner's book on wood finishing and choose your finish from there. <A> Guitar finishing can be a bit different than traditional wood finishing. <S> There are a lot of similarities though too. <S> Primary considerations are protection of the instrument, and look. <S> Lacquer has historically been used, because it can provide a glass like finish. <S> The downsides to lacquer are the time to cure, the specific conditions needed (low humidity, and warm temperatures), cracking and yellowing over time. <S> Large manufacturers have long moved to a poly finish for a lot of reasons. <S> Easier to apply, less finicky (overall), can be nearly as glossy as lacquer, if waterbased then less yellowing. <S> Downsides are that it is a thicker finish and can affect the tone. <S> Everyone has mentioned this already, but test, test, test! <S> Prepare a test piece of wood and have the artist put some of the same paint they used on the test piece (doesn't need to be the same design). <S> What is important is how the clear coat will react with the paint. <S> Use one side for lacquer and the other for poly and try it out. <S> There are a lot of great guitar specific resources for finishing. <S> I will list a few here for reference: <S> StewMac - Finishing with spray can lacquer: http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online_Resources/Learn_About_Instrument_Finishing_and_Finish_Repair/ColorTone_Aerosol_Finishing_Kit_Instructions.html <S> TundraMan - Step by step lacquer: http://www.tundraman.com/Guitars/Finish/ http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/how-to-spray-nitrocellulose-lacquer-1/
| The pros use spray lacquer, building many coats and then wet sanding level, followed by polishing.
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How can I flute my own dowel or create dowel with similar properties Now I know that I can just buy these in packs of hundreds likely but lets play pretend that I need to make some from what I had available. When I think of fluted dowel I picture these guys... Image from HomeDepot.com That style of dowel would be difficult to emulate. I am not going to make a jig where I would rotate the dowel and run a beading moulding plane, or similar tool, to scratch a groove in. If they are actually compressed maybe I just need to compress them with something? Is there another method of working the dowel that will get a similar functional result? <Q> That style of dowel would be difficult to emulate. <S> Not so much actually! <S> You can do a decent job of simulating this texture by simply gripping the dowel in pliers, vice-grips etc. <S> and drawing it through, or squeezing hard to compress them into the wood. <S> Here's that tip in an old issue of Popular Mechanics, with another technique underneath: [ Source: Popular Mechanics, Dec 1987] <S> Both tips are often repeated online and sent in to the tips sections of woodworking mags :-) <S> In either case you end up with some grooves that prevent a hydraulic seal from forming, allowing air and excess glue out of the drilled hole. <A> Is there another method of working the dowel that will get a similar functional result? <S> Or, going with the dowel plate idea again, drill a normal hole and use a small circular file to get the same effect as drilling a series of smaller holes. <A> If they are actually compressed maybe I just need to compress them with something <S> Up until I read that answer I had never considered them to be compressed. <S> I had always assumed cut. <S> If that is the case then a simple approach to this would be to file (or fine rasp) <S> the ends to get the taper and the use a large toothed jawed tool, like pliers, to simply compress the dowel. <S> This needs to be done carefully as to not break the dowel. <A> Why do you need the dowel to be fluted?If <S> you are worried about blowout (glue/ hydraulic pressure buildup) <S> just plane a small flat spot on the dowel.
| You could maybe make a dowel plate , but instead of drilling a regular hole through the steel plate, make a series of smaller holes in a circle that approximate the cross-section profile you're going for, then punch out the section where the dowel goes through.
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Using newly cut wood with dry wood I have offcuts of Macrocarpa that I'd like to use instead of keeping them there doing nothing useful. I acquired some Macrocarpa wood that is still wet, it seems that it has been cut recently, I've had it for a month now myself. I was wondering if: I can use the wet wood to create a wall hanging (12 by 12 inches), it will be a join of three 4 inch wide pieces. would something happen to it over time as it dries such as break apart? I can use a mix of wood (new and dry) to achieve this? <Q> In short, don't do it. <S> Drying wood is subject to a lot of shrinkage and at different rates depending upon whether you measure across the grain rings (radial) or with them (tangential). <S> (There is very little shrinkage in the length). <S> The overall amount will differ depending upon the species (I could not find actual figures for Cypress <S> but it should be similar to other soft woods) <S> , how wet it is and the relative humidity, but it could easily be in the 10% range. <S> In addition the tangential shrinkage can easily be double the radial. <S> So, all in all , there is a lot of movement during the drying process. <S> All of this adds up to a lot of internal stress in the wood. <S> It is why you see cross sections of tree trunks with large gaps like pieces of pie that have been removed. <S> The wood is shrinking rapidly and the stress is too much. <S> It is also why you see splits at the edges of drying lumber. <S> These cracks occur as a result of the differences in the shrinkage rates between wood at the ends where evaporation is occurring at a higher rate than further towards the middle of the board where the evaporation and shrinkage is slower. <S> All wood must be dried to achieve any dimensional stability. <S> The wood may be kiln dried or air dried. <S> Air drying takes a lot of time, as a rule of thumb allow 1 year per inch of thickness. <S> The key issue for your project, other than the fact that the whole thing will shrink is that each board will shrink at different rates depending upon grain direction across the boards. <S> Since the project is small it is possible that the wood and glue (screws?) can hold up to the stress if the boards are all oriented exactly the same and have small areas of contact, but it is likely that the wood will split near where the boards are attached. <S> As to mixing the green and dried wood, the dried wood will not shrink anywhere near as much as the green wood and you are almost guaranteed to have problems. <A> In general you don't want to mix dried wood with green wood ( <S> any wood from freshly cut to not fully dried is 'green' to some extent). <S> However there are specific areas in woodworking where green wood is mixed with dry, so <S> it's not an absolute don't do it. <S> Smaller projects are more forgiving with regards to wood movement because the total size of the movements is small. <S> Since you're looking at making a piece only 12" square (30.5cm) with only a few pieces 4" (10.2cm) <S> wide there is a limit to how much shrinkage the green boards will go through. <S> And anyway, for a non-structural project for yourself I don't see why you can't at least try what you've planned. <S> Do note that shrinkage is not the only thing that occurs as green wood air-dries, it can warp and crack too. <S> If the drying of the green portions does cause certain problems you can see them firsthand, which many woodworkers don't ever get a chance to see. <S> And who knows? <S> You might actually like what happens, these days people make use of non-perfect wood all the time for its character. <A> Simply would not, boards could shrink and warp. <S> You could use them and next day everything is done for. <S> But it is better to let the wood dry before using. <A> Despite all the DON'T DO IT naysayers, if you're looking to create an artistic wall hanging piece, I'd say go for it! <S> You'll have to make adaptations to your design to accommodate the shrinkage that will happen as the pieces dry, but I think it could be handled, perhaps by a single pocket screw holding each pair of boards together. <S> This would give you a dynamic, living (dying? <S> drying?) <S> piece of art that would change over the next couple of years, until it finally reached room humidity. <S> As with any art piece, it might come out very nicely or it might be utter rubbish, but if you go into it knowing and accepting that, you might just end up with something you really like. <S> As a side note, wet and dry wood are commonly used in making small wagon wheels. <S> A dry spoke is fitted through a just big enough hole in a piece of green wood that acts as the other spoke. <S> As the green wood drys, it shrinks, locking the dry spoke very tightly in place without any fasteners.
| The only thing you could do (MAYBE) is cutting all the boards into 3 inch stripes and taking a glue joint router bit (I would use a finger joint) and glue the board, which should resist warping of the board.
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What do I need to know to use a claw hammer effectively Yes, I get the gist of it. The hand goes on the handle and you hit the nail or whatever object with the head (of the hammer). So... not this: Image from ShutterStock I am referring to both the action of seating nails and removing them. When I am removing nails from pallet boards I hit all the nails out and then flip the board to I can pull them out. Eventually this repetitive action is going to start to hurt and obviously that is going to happen regardless. However I wonder what I need to know to hold it off as long as possible. Does something simple like my thumb position play into account? Should I be giving a thumbs up or making a fist when holding it? Could this just be a matter of whatever feels comfortable? What do I need to know to use my claw hammer effectively so as to not cause unneeded stress on myself? <Q> Whether pulling or pounding nails the foremost concern is leverage - this means grip the handle as far from the head as possible. <S> Thumbs up <S> , thumbs down depends on the where the nail is in relation to your body and how you can best achieve maximum mechanical advantage (least effort to get the job done). <S> Personally, I think that if I were dismantling a pallet, I would lean the boards containing the nails against a table, pound them through as you indicated, then seat the claw so that I could pull the handle downward such that body weight could help provide some of the force. <S> If the nail is too far out to get a good grip near its head, place a block of wood against the nail and then place the claw on the shaft of the nail. <S> See below which is also a slick wayy to ease the damage done to the board. <S> source <S> Of course, one of the big problems with removing nails is gaining a purchase on the nail head. <S> If you can drive the nail out from the other side far enough to attach the claw, then no problem. <S> But what do you do when you have a 16 penny sinker holding together a couple of two by fours? <S> Almost impossible to do without messing up the wood. <S> First see whether the nail head is totally sunk, if not, with little effort you might be able to get the claw to get a grip. <S> If the nail has been driven home (or beyond) your best bet is find a way to pry the boards apart (think crow bar, pry bar, or even the claw of your hammer). <S> If these don't do the job, then you resort to solutions that are beyond the scope of this question and perhaps even for another site. <A> Claw hammer doesn't describe one particular design of a tool. <S> There are different dimensions and materials they are made out of, so the weight and leverage can vary. <S> Some are curved claw, others straight claw, some have sideways pullers also. <S> There are several types of nail pullers, tack pullers, ripping bars, etc., because none of them give you the perfect position to access a nail in all situations. <S> Same goes for claw hammers. <S> I sometimes use four tools to pull a nail so that it goes better over all. <S> The technique depends as much on the tool, as for which is more effective, or whether you're demolishing something versus preserving the rest. <A> If you're concerned about the ergonomics of repetitive nail pulling, I'd use a tool designed specifically for that job that is long enough to give you the leverage you need to pull the nail without pounding on the handle (or pushing unsafely hard). <S> If I were breaking down pallets, I would definitely avoid using a hammer for pulling nails. <S> I'd say the claw is more intended for pulling the occasional half-hammered nail that bent on the way in. <S> Something like this <S> that's of suitable length is going to be a lot more comfortable for extended use:
| Always seat the nail as far into the space between claws as you can - keeps the hammer from slipping off and increases mechanical advantage.
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What is the difference between a worm and sidewinder drive circular saws? I didn't even know this was a thing. Then I read comments in this question Worm drive saws are long and unwieldy for all but the burliest of men. I found them a real pain to work with. A Makita is a nicely-balanced tool and will last a woodworker 200 years. We used them like rental cars for years with nothing more than motor brush and cord changes. I aspire to be a burly man on occasion. What is the difference between a worm drive and sidewinder drive circular saws? Do each lend better to certain applications? What do I need to know to use each properly? Are there other types where modern circular saws are concerned? <Q> I agree with what Steven has to say. <S> Unless you're routinely cutting 2" thick oak or hickory slabs, a modern direct-drive saw is likely more appropriate. <S> Equipped with a sharp, suitable blade it will cut nearly any wood workpiece with ease. <S> To clarify my quote in the question, worm-drive saws should be considered two-handed tools for most folks. <S> That usually means that your workpiece should be clamped or secured to keep it stable. <S> Direct-drive saws are more easily operated with one hand. <A> Worm drives use a worm gear to connect the motor to the blade. <S> Generally speaking, they are more powerful than direct drive saws where the motor drives the blade directly. <S> They are also larger, heavier and more expensive than direct drive models. <S> Think of them like a cabinet table saw versus a contractor table saw. <S> Both will get the job done but one will last longer and be up to tougher tasks. <S> A lot of contractors prefer direct drive since they are lighter and smaller. <A> Here is a picture that may help: from this page: <S> http://charlesandhudson.com/what_type_of_circular_saw_do_you_use_sidewinder_or_worm_drive/ <A> Funny, I'm left handed and a relative featherweight, and I love my hypoid saw. <S> (Brief diversion: <S> among the things tagged as worm drive there are the classic Skil brand saws that are actually worm drives and require regular oiling, and Makita makes a hypoid that offers slightly less torque than a WD but is more efficient and thus doesn't cook the oil in the gear case. <S> So you never need to change the oil in the hypoid.) <S> Anyway, back to the question. <S> WD saws get the burly tag because they're heavier than sidewinders. <S> If you think that gravity can be used to your advantage, then a bit of weight could be considered a good thing. <S> My personal opinion is that they track better because of the weight and partly because the handle is behind (rather than above) the blade. <S> As noted, I'm a staunch lefty, and I don't have a problem with the blade-motor relationship. <S> I think geography has a lot to do with what saw you end up using. <S> WDs are popular on the west coast of the US. <S> When I lived in Ontario, my hypoid was an outlier. <S> Application-wise, I can't think of anything that one saw would clearly do better than the other. <S> If you were cutting stair stringers, it might be nice to have one of each style on hand, but that's getting pretty esoteric. <S> As far as things to know about saws, there's not a lot of difference between them: control the saw and control your workpiece. <S> Wear protective equipment. <A> I have worm drive and sidewinder saws, biggest difference for me is that the worm drive saws are narrow, since it does not have the motor sticking out the side. <S> The worm drive spins at a slightly lower rpm <S> but both saw types seem equally powerful, at least with my 15 amp milwaukee and skil saws.
| As others have said, "direct drive" usually has the motor to the left of the blade, and "worm drive" is heavier (and more robust), with the motor to the right of the blade.
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Can I use a 6mm shank in a 1/4 inch collet? There is a nice bit I would love to get/use but it uses a 6mm shank. My router uses 1/4 inch shank. It is a 0.014 inch difference...is it a bad idea to get this? Is there an adapter or something if not? From the comments on an answer: My router is a Performax trim router, there is 1/4 collect and 3/8 collect. Not sure of the model. <Q> In short: No, no, no . <S> You can technically do this, unluckily, but it is highly inadvisable . <S> It is a pity that it just looks like one could do it <S> (1/2'' is not far off compared to 12mm, and 1/4'' is even closer to 6mm) and that with some luck, it indeed seems to "work just fine". <S> That is true for the other way around, too. <S> I've seen people do it, too, and they so far got away without accident or even physical injury. <S> (Which makes the whole matter worse because that "proves" that it works.) <S> However, using an imperial bit in the corresponding (well, almost corresponding) <S> metric collet is dangerous <S> both <S> during the operation and when using the collet with your 6mm bits as intended afterwards. <S> What happens is that you irreversibly widen your collet by a tiny amount (too small to see, but certainly enough to be on the dangerous side). <S> If you are unlucky, the whole thing blows to smithereens at 25k RPM with shrapnel flying all over the place and the bit come off flying in a random direction. <S> If you are lucky it "works fine", but now the collet no longer grips the original bits firmly and safely, so you have the risk of a bit flying away in a random direction every time you use the tool "properly" with the correct bits. <S> Plus, you never know if the collet isn't going to break a month or two later, anyway. <S> The same is true for the opposite case, using a metric bit in an imperial collet. <S> Only in this case, you force the clamps together much more than originally intended. <S> There is a bit of tolerance, so you can certainly fasten the screw harshly enough to do those extra 0.3 millimeters. <S> But it's not what the tool manufacturer intended you to do, or planned in. <S> The bit isn't going to have a sufficiently firm, safe grip, and you cannot be sure whether you have structurally damaged the collet by bending the little clamps too harshly. <A> You NEED a different collet. <S> Your router could be spinning the bit at 20,000 rpm. <S> Ignoring the possibility of damaging your work piece, the personal risk is extremely high. <S> edit: <S> On @AstPace's good suggestion, I've added a couple of relevant points from the comments trail. <S> Now, adapters aren't great, as they're one more thing that can go wrong, but if you were desperate, you can find a 3/8" > 6mm adapter here . <S> (It's much easier to find adapters for 1/2" collets, but I digress.) <S> The most obvious thing would be to find the cutter you want in a shank size you can easily use. <A> It doesn't look like there is a commercial adapter available for this. <S> The smallest I could find are 1/4" to 4 mm. <S> This makes sense due to the wall thickness of a 1/4" to 6 mm adapter would be just 0.175 mm (about 11/64") thick. <S> The best option would be to find a 6 mm collet for your router (if available). <A> My Makita 3709 has only one collet and the instructions booklet say that it's valid both for 6mm AND 1/4" bits. <S> Clearly, if the collet fits 1/4" it can also fit 6mm, probably by just a tiny extra tightening.
| As this router also has a 3/8" collet, you could use an adapter to get down to a 6mm shank. You can hardly tell a difference with the naked eye, and the bits will fit in "just fine" either way.
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What is an electric planer (hand tool) good for? This may be an opinion question... Someone recently gave me an old electric planer similar to And I'm wondering whether there is any task where it would really have an advantage over other tools such as hand planes, a thickness planer, a belt sander, etc. LATE ADDITION TO THE QUESTION: How would one of these do for the frequently-asked question about initial paint removal from boards being recycled? The blades are certainly a lot cheaper than those of a "lunchbox" planer if the paint makes a mess of them. On the other hand, it has little to no dust collection, which could be hazardous if there's lead in the paint. Just a thought... <Q> I'm not sure you're going to find a ton of woodworkers using these for fine woodworking or furniture construction, but they are commonly used by construction workers/general contractors for things like shaving down doors, evening out floor joists, etc. <A> And I'm wondering whether there is any task where it would really have an advantage over other tools such as hand planes, a thickness planer, a belt sander, etc. <S> Electric planers are coarse tools for coarse work. <S> As such, you won't see one used by a fine furniture maker for anything beyond the rough dimensioning of stock (removing gross amounts of twist, waney edges, etc.) <S> , if indeed he/ <S> she uses one at all. <S> I might use one for removing a dirty surface of a board prior to running it through a powered planer/jointer, just to save the wear on my planer knives. <S> Usually these are used by job sites for rough dimensioning of things. <S> For example, I used one once to trim the protruding tops of some deck joists prior to screwing down deck boards. <S> If you have a stud that's just a bit too wide to fit in a space, trim it down with an electric planer. <S> And the list goes on. <S> Historically, the job of the electric planer was done by a scrub plane . <A> The finish they leave is not incredible, but not bad to get prettied up. <S> They're also very good at making showers of sparks and bad, bad sounds when you hit an embedded nail. <S> For better results, tie a magnet to a string and dangle it over the area to be planed.
| They're frequently used to plane doors (for fitment), they're much faster than sanding, and don't require the precise setting up needed to trim with a circular saw.
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What tools could I use to cut a turned chair leg in half vertically? My uncle was recently trying to fix up a cabinet that used to belong to my grandfather for my mother. It used to be part of a modular set and you attached the same drawer set on each end. Since she only had the one my uncle wanted to embellish the outer edges with chair legs. He then told me he basically tried to cut them in half free hand with the table saw. While he didn't hurt himself he did say "Never doing something that stupid again." What could you do to cut a turned chair leg in half? Table saw and band saw come to mind but the leg will not have the same dimensions from top to bottom. Cutting a dowel in half could just be a matter of a 45 degree box jig but that wouldn't work here exactly? Also would be hard to secure it given the round curves and what not. <Q> This can be done safely on a table saw, although the workpiece must be held securely on a jig of some sort. <S> With a slight mod one of the ripping sleds shown in this Answer could be used. <S> In terms of power saws the bandsaw is the ideal choice for this, even allowing the cut to be done safely freehand. <S> In addition it has the thinnest kerf so you lose the least amount of wood. <S> Although this could be done freehand attaching the leg to a jig of some kind would help ensure a good result, a version of those commonly used to cut small logs seems the perfect starting point: <S> Source: Bandsaw Resawing on Popular Woodworking. <S> Source: <S> Lumberjocks <S> Obviously a cut like this can be made by hand but a fair amount of experience is needed to get a long straight rip cut in thin material. <S> This would ideally be done using a dedicated ripsaw and not a saw with multi-purpose teeth. <A> I have not cut chair legs with an irregular profile, but I have successfully ripped 1" diameter dowels. <S> The process is to make a sled and run it through the table saw. <S> But the sled is inverted from what you might normally consider a sled. <S> The sled is made as shown with a square tunnel running the length of the sled and capped at the rear end. <S> You will have to carefully rip the three long components to fit your dimensional requirements, then screw, glue, or nail them together. <S> The cap has a hole drilled in it which is the same size as the end of the leg. <S> Nestle <S> the leg in the tunnel and insert the leg into the hole in the cap. <S> Adjust the fence on the table saw to the desired position, presumable dead center on the circle, but offset if you wish. <S> Then the sled through the saw and, voila, you will end up with a perfectly cut piece. <A> If I had to do this, I'd go with bandsaw and some sort of support carriage or guide rail to hold the leg stable while you cut it, much like using a bandsaw to mill boards or veneer out of a section of tree trunk. <S> However, fancy half-round, quarter-round, and three-quarter round turnings are available from woodworking supply houses for exactly this purpose, which would make all the complications Someone Else's Problem. <A> It will save time and wood (yes, wood - because you don't have to build a small piece of furniture just to make a single cut.) <S> Also, you get the bonus of working quietly and with no dust (or fingers, or kicked-back wooden missiles) flying around. <S> Plus, you'll learn a valuable skill. <S> Not knocking power tools, I choose them for most shop tasks, but this sounds like a hand-tool job.
| Since this sounds like a hypothetical question (original was already cut, for better or worse, by Uncle Handy), I suggest the use of a sharp, hand-held rip saw, provided you can handle one properly and will take the time to correctly mark and steady the workpiece.
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What is the difference between a black oxide bit and a titanium bit? I have a black oxide bit and a titanium bit but do not understand what the difference, if any, is between them. Is it how long they last or how they cut the wood? Anything on this would be great! <Q> Black Oxide Bits coated with black oxide should be cheaper than titanium ones. <S> They have decent heat resistance. <S> Most sites that talk about the breakdown between the types rate these for better water, rust and corrosion resistance. <S> Titanium Titanium is a little ambiguous as there are multiple coating that use titanium. <S> For the most part though they should outlast black oxide bits and are better rated for heat resistance. <S> so you should be able to run them faster for longer. <S> What does this mean for a woodworker? <S> Both bits are rated for more or less the same materials. <S> It is true that titanium coated should outlast a black oxide coated bit. <S> However, for a wood worker, they should both be just fine and provide the same results in relatively comparative times (This largely depends on each bits size and pitch as well as some other factors). <A> The greatest contributing factor, however, is the base material used to make the bit, and how it was formed (forged vs. ground). <S> A soft, ground bit will not fare as well with the same coating as a harder, forged bit. <S> Strictly between same material bits, those with Ti coats will outlast those with Black Oxide in denser materials. <S> This is due to <S> Ti bits having greater surface hardness, which allows the structure to hold up against the longer duration drill times needed to bore the denser materials. <S> Even with the increased ‘lubricity’ (or reduction of friction due to surface texture) Black Oxide bits boring in metals are slowed; such that friction resilience can not compensate for lack of competitive surface hardness. <S> TL;DR: <S> Friction wears soft bit surfaces faster. <S> Titanium coated bits generally have greater hardness, and thus last longer. <A> For wood working it makes no difference at all. <S> Titanium coating is an exceptionally thin layer of titanium nitride on HSS or other steel ; produces a gold color. <S> Claimed to be an advantage cutting high strength steels (not wood). <S> black oxide is the normal oxides that are on HSS ( high speed steels ) when tempered at the usual tempering temperatures of 950 to 1100 F. Again adding a very thin hard layer , and saving the manufacturer the cost of removing it. <S> If a bit is ever resharpened these coating are gone. <S> Searching the internet , I find "black oxide" is more of a decorative finish with very marginal corrosion protection ( my evaluation as a corrosion professional).
| Between Black Oxide and Titanium coatings, bits with a Titanium based coat will generally fare better when drilling through soft steels and other metals (~A36 hardness).
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How can I sharpen a reciprocating saw blade? Can I and how do I sharpen reciprocating saw, or Sawzall (as some people call it) blades? I have some that go dull and I want to know if I can't simply sharpen them instead of them going to waste. If I can sharpen them where do I go? from the front of the tooth or the back? Any angles to be aware of? Knowing anything would be very helpful. <Q> Rambling backgrounder -- sorry: these are typically called 'reciprocating saws', though the Kleenex of the bunch is the Sawzall (r) by Milwaukee. <S> (edit to say that will only be a meaningful statement to people that read the edit history of the original question...) <S> While there are many different tooth profiles available in reciprocating saw blades, a typical one will look a lot like a normal sawblade. <S> You could google 'sharpen a handsaw blade', and you'd get an idea of how to do it (flatten, sharpen, set, if memory serves, but I could be very wrong). <S> Except that the teeth are typically smaller and more closely set. <S> So most people I know consider these blades to be consumable and disposable. <S> The only other advice I can offer is to avoid overheating the blade while cutting -- this seems to dull more quickly. <S> Use all of the blade's sharp parts... in other words, use up the teeth near the shoe, then use the end teeth for something like a plunge cut. <A> I have some that go dull <S> and I want to know if I can't simply sharpen them instead of them going to waste. <S> Like all blades they will go dull after repeated use and become less efficient. <S> Most wheels have flat edges. <S> Using something harder to grind the wheel will give you a better edge to fit in between the teeth. <S> These blades are usually fairly cheap. <S> It might not be worth your time to get perfect teeth or even have them professionally sharpened like those you would need on a good handsaw. <S> Running the teeth through the wheel you can touch up a blade in less that a couple of minutes. <S> Reciprocating saw blades are not meant for creating nice clean edges which is another reason you don't need to worry about the end result as much. <S> For the most part just match the angle of the blade as best as you can. <S> Wheels are preferred for speed and something like bi-metal blades could easily be tougher than your files. <S> Here is a video of a gentlemen running a blade under a grinding wheel. <S> Though should help you get more out of your blades. <S> Commercial Options <S> Of course depending on how serious you are about this concept there are dedicated tools for this job as well. <S> Like this one I found from Jarvis . <S> Not advocating the product as I know nothing about it just showing you there are products out there. <A> Secure the saw blade in a vise or clamp it down and using a trangle file, try to match the angle of the teeth and simply give a couple strokes to each tooth. <S> Lay the file in the first gullet (space between the teeth) and give it a couple strokes. <S> Then on down the line. <S> The more consistent and evenly you cut, the better your results but perfection is not necessary. <S> If the file cannot cut the metal then the next best option would be to use a small rotary tool such as a Dremel with a grinding stone or cut-off wheel. <S> Give each tooth a touch with the stone and again, just attempt to maintain the angle of the original teeth. <S> One could also use a bigger hand-held grinder though that could be unwieldy and difficult to get a good result. <S> Whatever method you use, the more consistent you are, the better your results but even a very bad attempt will likely restore useable function to the blade. <S> Whether it's worth the time versus purchasing a new blade depends on the situation. <S> There are many contexts where it could make sense to do this <S> and I've definitely been in these situations. <S> Perhaps you are short on time, the store is far away, there is only a little more cutting to do, you are not able to get to a store at all etc.
| A grinding wheel or cut off wheel with a profile that better matches you blade (You can easily shape your own) would be a simple approach to this.
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Should I use cleats or brackets when putting up shelves? I'm planning on putting up 3 sets of shelves in our utility room but am uncertain whether I should put the shelves up with cleats or brackets. I'm sure most of you will know what I mean but in case I am using the terms wrong here is what I mean by putting up the shelves with cleats: (Image from www.fourgenerationsoneroof.com ) and here is what I mean by putting up the shelves with brackets: (image from www.diy.com (expand the rustic shelves part) ) In the past I have always used brackets but this is because the shelves were normally in the middle of a wall and not spanning it from one side of the room to the other. However, in this project the shelves will be just as pictured above although the length of each shelf will be greater. Also, I had never heard of cleats until now. Here is a breakdown of what the shelves are likely to be made of: Soft wood 2 meters (6.5ft) long (this spans one side of the room to the other) 0.3 meters (1ft) wide 1cm (1/2") thick Used for holding a couple of large bottles of detergent and then smaller odds and ends Is this the correct usage of cleats and, assuming it is, are there advantages to using them that make them a better choice than using brackets? <Q> My comments were running long, so I figured I'd make an answer out of this. <S> If you have a nook that you're putting the shelf in, similar to your "cleats" link, then you should be able to use the cleat method, just like in that link. <S> Since you're spanning from one side of the room to the other, you should be able to put your edge cleats on the side walls and fully support your shelf. <S> The front rail of the shelf will help prevent bowing of the board, but for a 2m run, you'll end up with more than a bottle of detergent and a couple of odds-and-ends up there, and you'll need more support. <S> According to the Sagulator , your 2m x .3m x 1cm shelf in Eastern White Pine (just a random guess on the wood - you said softwood), with a 2.5cm x 5cm (1x2 inches) <S> edging strip (along the front) and an evenly space 30 lbs (14-ish kg) per foot is going to give you <S> .75 <S> cm of sag in the middle. <S> Doubling your shelf thickness to 2cm will reduce that sag to .46cm which they deem an acceptable amount. <S> Alternatively, you can use any manner of decorative wooden or metal brackets at stud spacing (18" (45cm) US) <S> and you should have more than enough support. <S> I went back to the 1cm thick board and increased the load to 45Kg per 30cm to get a 0.002" deflection. <S> What should you use? <S> Whatever is most aesthetically pleasing to you, yet suitable to the load and situation. <S> If your shelf is not running wall-to-wall, there is no way a single cleat along the rear of the shelf will hold up the shelf itself, to say nothing of the load on it. <S> You'll have to use brackets in that situation, just as you've done in the past. <A> Weight of what you're supporting matters, as well as thickness of the wood. <S> Even though there is a cleat running the width of the back edge, you're depending upon the shelf's resistance to deflection under stress to support the front (middle) of the shelf. <S> If there's any doubt, put in the brackets if you can. <S> If the load is lighter, I'm sure cleats will be fine, and will make for a nicer looking installation. <A> If you want to hang the shelf with cleats, you will need to have thicker shelves, as demonstrated by Freeman's sagulator calculations. <S> However, note that you do not need a solid, thick shelf. <S> Floating shelves are commonly built as torsion boxes --essentially the same technique used in construction of hollow core doors, and even corrugated cardboard. <S> In fact, the skins, or the top and bottom layers, only need to be thick enough to limit deflection between the walls of the underlying internal lattice. <S> The overall resistance to deflection is determined by the thickness of the torsion box, not so much by the thickness of the top and bottom skins. <S> You could build a 12" deep torsion box that either is or isn't supported on the sides and can easily support 200 lbs in the middle, assuming you properly anchor your cleats to the wall and properly fix the shelf to the cleats. <S> It will be easier if the torsion box rests on top of the cleats, but you can also use integral cleats which essentially serve as the back and side walls of the torsion box. <A> ; (2) after the first screw but before the second is in, it's easy to use a level to guarantee that your finished shelves will be level. <S> Sometimes I use a bracket in the center of the shelf if I need the extra strength. <S> Using only brackets tends to be a pain in my experience, since my studs inevitably are in strange and ugly places on the wall.
| If the load can get heavy, use brackets, as they will lend more support to the middle of the shelf. For light utility use, I strongly prefer cleats: (1) they're easier to install in most situation because your cleat is guaranteed to span a few studs (unless it's very short)
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What is an easy way of putting together a mitred box? I am putting together some boxes that have been mitred all around, they are sliding around and it takes me a lot of effort to put them together to stay and glue correctly. Anything I could do to make this easier? I do not want to use screws or anything like it because this is MDF with the front covered with a wood like look and do not want to wreck it as much as possible. <Q> I have done something similar using baltic birch plywood for boxes that are up to about 8" by 8" by 8". <S> The first challenge is to make certain that the miters are cut exactly 45 degrees. <S> If you cannot achieve that, tight, closed joints are impossible (see <S> How do I cut a 45 degree bevel on a table saw with consistent dimensions? ) <S> When making a five surface box (no top): <S> On a table top carefully tape the bottom to each of the four sides with the miters facing up. <S> Apply and spread glue on each of the mitered surfaces. <S> Fold all four sides upward and tape together. <S> For clamping use large rubber bands. <S> The more rubber bands the higher the clamping pressure. <S> Also tighter rubber bands means more pressure. <S> If not band clamps then a dozen or more larger opening bar clamps. <S> Or a combination band clamps and bar clamps. <S> After applying the tape, it would be good idea to rehearse your clamping before applying the glue. <S> That way, when the glue is in place, your clamps will be set to the correct opening and there will be less chance for one clamp slipping while tightening another. <A> I thought it would be better to have pictures of the tape method for greater clarity as well as to future-proof things in case of changes to any of the external links provided in this and other Answers. <S> Note tape is on the faces opposite the mitres. <S> Now flip over and you can apply glue to the joint surfaces. <S> To improve bond strength you may want to size the mitred surfaces with diluted glue 10-20 minutes ahead of time. <S> If you plan to use any reinforcements to the mitred joints (e.g. keys, interior glue blocks, an epoxy fillet, brads/panel pins) this isn't really necessary <S> but it is good general practice when glueing end grain. <S> Now roll the box up like this: <S> If you're not glueing on the base immediately you're done for now, put the box aside for a few hours for the glue to dry. <S> Pictures taken from this Craftsy article . <A> If the box is big enough, you can use shop made corner clamps like the ones featured in this Wood magazine article . <S> If the box is too small for that, it might be a good candidate for gluing up using tape as clamps, as demonstrated in this Popular Woodworking article . <S> Indeed, if it's small enough, like a small keepsake box, you can use one piece of tape, stick all the sides to it in order, and just wrap the whole thing up. <S> At the very least, this should help stabilize the panels while you are clamping them together. <A> Build the box first, then chamfer the edges. <S> Much simpler than trying to do it the other way around. <S> Assuming you really do mean chamfer rather than miter. <A> I have had good success by using a band clamp . <S> Glue your corners, assemble it, make sure everything is square, and then ratchet it down with the band clamp. <S> This allows you to get some good pressure on the joints.
| If you are making larger boxes tape can still be used, but you might have to resort to band clamps. First thing you do is lay down the sides of the box flat on the table and apply tape across each corner joint:
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Do I need to worry about wood dust for very small-scale manual sanding? I have recently discovered carving as a very relaxing and pleasant hobby. From small branches of wood I whittle hair-sticks with interesting shapes (the kind of object you use to put long hair up) with small knives and use sandpaper (by hand) of various grits to even out the shape, make the surface smoother and shinier. I like to do the sanding outside, but I do it in my living room sometimes. I was never concerned about the safety of using sandpaper (at least manually) until I stumbled upon the subject somewhere on the web. Virtually everybody recommends using dust masks when sanding wood, but it seems that people generally refer to using power tools on large-ish things like pieces of furniture..? I am generally very (and sometimes over-)concerned about my health. On the one hand the amount of dust generated by finishing hair sticks seems very much insignificant compared to what kinds or techniques of woodworking are commonly assumed, but on the other what do I know, really! I have been uneasy working on the sticks since I read all the horror stories. So my question is, should I still wear a dust mask - or are my lungs damaged more by walking by a busy street for five minutes? <Q> It's a question of degree. <S> Extensive sanding, especially by machine, puts a lot of fine wood dust into the air for extended periods. <S> Even with dust collection, in that environment a dust mask is a very good idea. <S> If you're doing small amounts of sanding by hand, the exposure is much less and the body is more able to deal with it it. <S> You might still want to consider an inexpensive mask as cheap insurance, but I wouldn't consider it necessary. <S> I happen to already have a decent cartridge-style respirator, but for what you describe I probably wouldn't bother with it... <S> even thjough, since I have it on hand, it does sometimes get used for lower-hazard tasks. <S> One caution: some woods are more toxic than others, and some can cause serious allergic-style reactions in some people. <S> Sanding is one of the stronger local skin exposures, so if you are going to react to something this may be when it happens. <S> More of a risk with "exotic" tropical woods, and unlikely to be serious unless your system is already compromised, but something to be aware of. <S> If in doubt, stop for a while and wash off. <A> Your risk is probably very small here, but I do want to suggest caution. <S> Within reason there are no downsides to taking precautions to protect yourself from dust, and there might be ill effects if you don't. <S> It's a first line of defence to keep from inhaling the dust. <S> The thing about wood dusts generally is that they can be irritants, and at worst the irritant effect can build over time, and unfortunately you don't know ahead of time what species might have negative effects for you since it varies from person to person and how sensitive you might be..... <S> nobody knows if they're allergic to something until they're allergic to it! <S> Virtually everybody recommends using dust masks when sanding wood, but it seems that people generally refer to using power tools on large-ish things like pieces of furniture..? <S> You probably know this already from your reading but there is some good reasoning behind this. <S> It's partially about the far greater amounts of dust generated by power sanding of course but powered sanding <S> * generates quantities of the finest dusts and it is these that are the most damaging, <S> e.g. because they can be inhaled deepest into the lungs. <S> So my question is, should I still wear a dust mask - or are my lungs damaged more by walking by a busy street for five minutes? <S> Possibly yes <S> and possibly yes :-) <S> But most of all it depends on you , everyone's response to irritants is different. <S> *Power-tool processes in general are capable of creating much finer dusts than hand-tool processes. <A> You probably need airflow and a mask. <S> I recently did 30 seconds of light sanding in my closed garage, while wearing a dust mask. <S> 1 hour later I opened my garage and saw beams of sun light shining through and there was dust floating everywhere. <S> Now I keep the main garage door open and a fan at the other end, and I can see a lot of dust floating outside. <S> Even when doing very small amounts of sanding. <S> It not be a big deal for most, but since I am extra sensitive, I need to take all the precautions. <S> Prior to this I had been sensitised to dust, and even coming in the garage a day after sanding <S> gave me a bought of allergies <S> , so I'm guess, the fine particles linger for at least a day after being produced. <A> Any answer you get is going to be based largely on belief and gut feeling rather than hard fact. <S> This is because people's environment and bodies differ greatly; the effects, if any, are usually seen in the very long term; and the most damaging dust is completely invisible. <S> It's hard to know what the truth really is. <S> I doubt anyone can truthfully tell you if you are going to have problems or not. <S> That said, I think if you are concerned and want to do something to reduce dust inhalation your best bet by far is to stop sanding inside. <S> Most living rooms have little ventilation and lots of soft furnishings so any dust you make is gonna stick around for you to breathe in long after you are finished. <S> If you vacuum clean <S> then the finest and most harmful dust will not be caught by the bag and will just be recirculated into the air unless maybe you have a vacuum cleaner for allergy sufferers. <S> For this reason I think a mask will be very ineffective. <S> Since this is a hobby for you and its purpose is to be enjoyable <S> I would remove all health concerns by making a nice area for you to do your sanding outside. <S> It is my understanding that dust is harmless outside as it is quickly carried away by even the lightest breeze and when it gets wet it will fall to the ground and rot. <S> If you don't want to do that but still want reduce your risk (if there is any) <S> then I'd recommend a proper mask with a silicone seal and replaceable filters for ultra-fine dust. <S> It also has to fit your face well. <S> I'm not convinced the disposable/semi-disposable ones seal to your face well enough to do anything. <S> You should also ensure your living room is well ventilated. <S> Consider putting a fan in an open window to keep the air moving.
| No need to go overboard, but wearing a simple dust mask when sanding wouldn't do any harm. It depends on the wood and how much of the dust you inhale, and on the street in question.
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Fixture and jig, what's the difference I hear the term "fixture" and "jig" all the time, but I don't know the difference. Can anyone explain? <Q> The difference can be arbitrary. <S> Or to put it another way the terms might be considered interchangeable. <S> I don't use the term fixture although I've seen it in print often enough. <S> Jig is one I use a lot <S> and I'd judge it to be much more commonly used by others too, although the type of thing they're used to describe could differ slightly from person to person. <S> A jig generally refers to a tool or setup, or "appliance" to use an older word, that holds a workpiece in a given way to allow you to work on it more easily. <S> An ideal example is a sharpening jig/honing jig. <S> But particularly with larger shop-built items (e.g. something to facilitate the cutting of tapers on the table saw, or to tilt the workpiece in a pillar drill to make angled holes) you could easily describe such a thing as a fixture. <S> And for something like a bench hook I'm not sure that either word is really right since it can be used in multiple ways, some of which aren't about holding the work, i.e. it can be used just to provide a sacrificial surface to chop on. <S> More on bench hooks in this previous Answer . <S> To illustrate that the terms may be interchangeable, or nearly so, here's a page on Popular Woodworking . <S> The URL says only jigs, but the page itself is titled Jigs & Fixtures . <S> And here are two book titles showing the same thing: <S> But to show how terms can vary, here's a classic book on the same subject from Robert Wearing which uses neither word in the title! <S> Just in general, terminology in woodworking is often less fixed than we'd like, with minor differences in usage from country to country, in different parts of the US and, as you might expect, with changes occurring over time. <S> Sometimes it doesn't matter much and the context makes the meaning pretty clear, but for the newbie this sort of thing can make things very confusing at times. <S> One of my pet peeves here is with a type of mitre reinforcement properly called a key (also referred to as <S> feathers traditionally) which is frequently now incorrectly referred to as a spline, which is a completely different type of reinforcement . <A> A fixture holds the piece for machining using work reference points for location. <S> An example of a fixture would be if you made a table saw sled made to cut a 23 degree cut 5" from the end of a board. <S> A jig is something you use to guide a tool for an operation. <S> i.e. a pocket hole jig or a router dovetail jig. <A> The distinction seems arbitrary, but it lies in how the aid is used. <S> Carrlane's article " Introduction to Workholding " explains: Often the terms "jig" and "fixture" are confused or used interchangeably; however, there are clear distinctions between these two tools. <S> Although many people have their own definitions for a jig or fixture, there is one universal distinction between the two. <S> Both jigs and fixtures hold, support, and locate the workpiece. <S> A jig, however, guides the cutting tool. <S> A fixture references the cutting tool. <S> The differentiation between these types of workholders is in their relation to the cutting tool. <S> That said, many people are not clear on the distinction and commonly call everything a jig. <S> While technically incorrect, most people will immediately understand what you're talking about.
| A jig guides the tool for machining features in their correct location.
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Alternatives to grip tape on a longboard Making my first longboard, and I'd like to put some art on top of it. On most skateboards (like Carver for example - see pic 1) grip on the top side of the deck is achieved by using a grip tape. On other boards though (like Globe for example - see pics 2, 3) some other technique is used. It looks like it's grains of sand + glue or lacquer, which is great because you can apply colorful art on top of it. Any one has an idea how to create such grip on the longboard's deck? How to create grains? What type[s] of glue to use? Thanks Carver with grip tape (not what I need) Globe, colored, with grip that is sort of see-through (what I want to achieve) Globe, closer look <Q> Try a good paint shop, there are numerous non-slip aggregate additives for most finishes. <S> If you intend to use lacquer or varnish on the deck they shouls have something. <A> If you don't find a more suitable method, you can purchase clear grip tape. <S> Of course it's a little opaque due to the grit it contains, but I had a deck covered in clear tape as a youngster with stickers underneath. <A> I had a similar application for this where I sprayed the adhesive on to a board and then covered the area with an abundance of sand. <S> After the glue dried the excess sand simply fell off. <S> I think this idea could work for what you are trying to do if you were to use a translucent fine sand.
| You could try using spray adhesive (such as the one below) along with sand.
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Can I use a band saw to make a cutting board? I don't really want a table saw because I think I could use the bandsaw/band saw for more things like resawing and curves. Is it feasible to use a bandsaw for a cutting board (and kind, on grain, strips, or just a cutout single piece of Maple)? Looking at the big box kind or a used 9" or 10" band-saw. <Q> A Bandsaw will certainly cut the wood, but the edges will require additional work since the cut will have more surface striations and the overall surface would be less flat where the table saw cut will be much smoother and flatter. <S> I recommend using a hand plane or planner to prepare the surfaces for gluing. <A> A bandsaw would be more that adequate for this job. <S> In fact it would almost be required it <S> you intended to make a cutting board that was shaped different than a standard rectangle. <S> However it likely won't be the only tool you use. <S> In this video by Scott Lewis <S> you can see him cutting the stock that is to be laminated with the bandsaw (This happens around 39 seconds into the video). <S> The video appears to show all tools that were used. <S> He is pretty good about using cabinet scapers, custom sanding blocks and regular sandpaper. <S> You could conclude that he only used a jointer and a bandsaw for the main cutting board. <S> Lamination can be a rather involved subject but lamination succeeds best when the faces being glued <S> are perfectly mated to each other i.e smooth. <S> You need to get a high tooth count blade in order to get near finish ready. <S> I would still take a pass with a scraper just in case. <S> When cutting wood with tools like table saws and band saws etc. <S> you should never expect to get a finish ready cut. <S> If you actually watched the video you will really see the bandsaw in action is it is used to create intricate details into the board. <S> So not only is the bandsaw a valid tool for this job it can do some amazing things. <A> I've done that: duplicate an old pig-shaped board with a fresh scrap of hardwood. <S> Trace the outline, cut out with a bandsaw, finish up the curves with files, and then use a router table to round over the top. <S> A bandsaw would not be good for making strips to glue up into a butcherblock style piece. <S> It's not precise and straignt enough; though if you follow up on the jointer you can make it work, albeit with a lot more waste and possibly non-parallel sides to the strip. <S> If you make a real butcher-block, where the strips are turned sideways so the end-grain is the cutting surface, then the board's original top/bottom are the edges to glue up, and the cut sides are the new face. <S> A jointer won't work on the endgrain, and the bandsaw is probably great for cutting slices from a large chunk of maple: it's what I would have used if I had one. <S> The table saw blade was not tall enough to go through <S> so I had to flip the piece and cut from both faces, and this produced a less-than-smooth cut that took more work (and more waste) to clean up. <S> So, it depends on what you're doing. <S> It could be a second choice or a primary choice, depending on the nature of the cutting board you're making. <A> They will full faster and the size makes a big difference so you will be changing then all the time. <S> They dull <S> faster you will be buying more <S> and it's hard to get perfect cuts. <S> You can do most things with the tablesaw that a bandsaw can do like cutting chives and relaxing on a tablesaw as well <S> but it won't be as easy as it is on a bandsaw. <S> Bandsaw are cheap used I would get that first <S> and then you'll see and want a tablesaw as well.
| A bandsaw will work but you have to consider the blades.
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What do I need to do to prepare wood for gluing? I would like to glue two pieces of pine together (at a right angle to eachother, flat sides together) using wood glue and nails. What do I need to do to prepare the wood? <Q> This can actually just be cleaning in the literal sense of the word since a wipe down with soapy water (followed by rinsing with clean water), or using one of a number of solvents, is sufficient in some instances. <S> But generally it's better practice to expose new wood. <S> For wood already at its final dimensions a very light scraping or sanding is normal. <S> If you're going to use sanding just a few passes with med-fine paper (240-320 grit) would normally be sufficient, just enough skim off the surface. <S> This is why wood should be worked freshly prior to glueing: <S> Source: Wood as an Engineering Material , 10-4, a Forest Products Laboratory publication. <S> In case it needs to be specified, clamp firmly . <S> Good clamp pressure is what ensures a good bond, everything else being equal. <S> Expect to have excess glue squeeze out of the joint, this is normal and indicates sufficient glue was applied initially. <S> From the comments: I wasn't sure if I should use nails or screws. <S> On wood as thin as this a glue-only joint will almost always be good enough. <S> The glue bond should be strong enough that an attempt to pull the pieces apart will result in one or both splintering along the grain. <S> I have to deal with end grain and side, but end is the smaller surface area and glue doesn't do well with ends according to brief research from earlier. <S> End grain doesn't bond as well as we'd like, but what is particularly weak is end grain/end grain joints. <S> End grain to face grain can be much stronger than supposed and many sources have it wrong about how strong this can actually be in practice (as real-world tests demonstrate). <S> If the end grain is sized prior to the final glue application it can glue much better, see Gluing end-grain . <A> The best glue joins, with wood, will have mated face grain surfaces <S> i.e. no gaps between the wood where the glue is going. <S> Generally smooth (sanded or scraped) wood surfaces are encouraged. <S> Once the glue is place and covering both surfaces apply pressure, with clamps where possible. <S> You should be able to put a fair amount so that you can see some glue seep out. <S> Clean the glue that seeps with a rag. <S> Leave it together for at least as long and the glue needs to set. <S> Longer if at all possible. <S> What you are describing is a lap join (Thanks AstPace!). <S> Since you are going to be gluing face to face grain the glue should hold very well. <S> Nails might not really be required unless you want them for aesthetic reasons. <S> Since you are going to be close to the edge I would suggest you make some small pilot holes; not too small so the nails still exert pressure. <S> This should discourage splits. <S> Depending on what this is going to be used for screws would be stronger. <S> Pilots holes are still suggested. <A> Make sure the wood is clean (no paint/stain/staples) where you're gluing. <S> Make sure the two boards are flat and square, when pressed against each other they should feel solid not wobbly. <S> Now just glue, screw or clamp if necessary <S> and you're done. <S> Here's sort of a mishmash of gluing tips
| All you need to do to prepare wood for glueing is to 'clean' the surface.
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How to remove a smaller cube from the end of a wooden beam I have this wooden beam 12cm x 12cm. I need to remove a 10cm x 10cm x 6cm cube from it. What's the easiest way to approach this? I don't mind buying machinery for it if that makes the task any easier. Update: I want to end up with the beam and I don't care about the cube. A comment suggested that it might not be obvious. <Q> I ended up doing the job with a jigsaw and a drill. <S> Jigsaw saws are available in several sizes. <S> One of them went exactly 10cm deep. <S> Of course it would bang into the wood if I would saw the 3 plains. <S> To minimize the banging I drilled 3 holes along the end of those plains. <S> I hope these pictures help to make sense out of this. <S> Keep the jigsaw firm and progress it slowly forward. <S> The drilled holes might be off a bit and the saw will bang in the wood as it progresses. <S> Need to keep the jigsaw pressed against the wood to absorb the mild blows. <S> Here's the end result after shaving a bit with a wood file. <S> Oh and the 2cm that's left is strong enough. <S> That won't break easily. <S> Not with your bare hands or fingers at least as someone suggested. <S> This method will probably not work in hardwood. <A> This is the easiest and least expensive approach. <S> A sharp hand saw will make short work of cutting into the wood on all three faces cutting a triangular section on each face. <S> Clearly you cannot saw any deeper without overcutting the outer lines. <S> Next, draw a line across the top diagonally from top left corner to the top right corner, securely clamp the block to solid work surface and remove the outer section of the clock which has had its inner face fully sawcut using a chisel starting at on the top line and working down. <S> This block will come free quickly since you are using the chisel to split the wood along its grain much as an ax splits firewood. <S> Now you can use a 1" +/- <S> chisel and mallet working along the sawn inner faces to cut out the remainder of the wood. <S> Work methodically and you will soon have the full volume removed. <S> Router with a long bit. <S> This option will require securing the wood post to a solid bench such that <S> the top is flush with the top of the bench. <S> You will then mount two wood rails to the bench surface to serve as guides so that the router base plate prevented from penetrating into the wood beyond the width and depth of the void are desired. <S> Begin by removing a shallow section (5mm) with the router and use increasingly deeper bit settings until you have desired depth. <S> The saw and chisel is the quicker/easier method especially in softwoods like in your picture. <S> The router can be dangerous for a beginner so make sure you understand how to use it properly before making this type of attempt. <S> As with all woodwork projects, your first attempt may not be as successful as you hoped for. <S> Practice improves everything. <A> I would use an oscillating multi-tool. <S> Use a technique similar to this- <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwpt1ghzdNg Basically removing a small layer (1/2 inch) at a time till your at the required depth. <A> Along the lines of the comment left by Graphus, I would tend to try to accomplish this a different way, with an eye toward the strength of the piece. <S> Instead of cutting out a cube, start with a 10 cm x 10 cm post of the appropriate height. <S> Then glue two 2 cm boards to adjacent faces of the post. <S> This will let you pick boards where the direction of the grain is much stronger than what will be left if you make the cuts as shown in your picture.
| Take the wood out in small depth increments, cutting across the grain several mm using the sawn face of the remaining wood as a guide and then with the grain to pry the cut section out. Here are two approaches: Saw and chisels.
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How do I drill greater than 7 inches in from the edge of my sheet of wood? From the drill press's supporting pipe to the drill bit tip measures 5". I believe this limits me to drilling no farther than 5" in from any given side of my MDF sheet. Unfortunately, I need to drill 7" in from the edge of my MDF sheet. Is there anyway to accomplish this with the drill press I currently own? If not, are there alternatives to a drill press that can be used for accurate holes? Or.. Is there a place that rents time on a drill press that could drill 7" in from the side of a sheet of MDF? The drill press I have access to: <Q> I use this from Big Gator Tools. <S> You can also use your drill press to drill a bushing hole through a thicker board (about 1-1 1/2" works well). <S> If you go this route, you can make the bushing for any angle you need, and place several in a line. <S> If you have to drill shelf pin holes in the side of a cabinet for adjustable shelves, you can use a shelf pin guide to keep consistent distance between holes. <S> These are available from a variety of vendors at a wide range of price points, starting with basic kits such as this from Milescraft. <A> Is there anyway to accomplish this with the drill press I currently own? <S> As far as I can see, no. <S> If not, are there alternatives to a drill press that can be used for accurate holes? <S> Yes. <S> You can actually drill very accurate holes (accurate in all senses: position, diameter and squareness to the surface). <S> Note that for accurate positioning marking out must be done accurately beforehand, and centre marks or pilot holes are advisable. <S> If you need to drill holes square to the surface there are various techniques and tricks that can be used, some of which are covered in a previous Q&A: <S> How do I ensure my drill is perfectly vertical before cutting a hole in my desk? <S> Unfortunately drilling freehand with Forstner bits is not really recommended <S> (some guides and manufacturers of the bits say outright not to do it) and it would be difficult to ensure good results consistently. <S> Obviously if you need to do this using a hand-held power drill you can go ahead and try, but it's highly recommended you drill practice holes first in scraps of the MDF you'll be using. <S> I would recommend slower speeds and light pressure, do not be tempted to rush. <S> These practice holes may dissuade you from trying this freehand, in which case other drill bits may begin to seem an attractive proposition, see Which type of drill bit for which jobs? <S> The job you have to do here is one reason I'm such a fan of swing braces and have given my opinion that they're very viable even today . <S> Or.. Is there a place that rents time on a drill press that could drill 7" in from the side of a sheet of MDF? <S> Yes for certain places, <S> but obviously this is very location-specific <S> so we can't answer that for you. <A> I would say I am at best, hobby level. <S> But when I had to do something like this in the past, I would use the drill press to drill holes into a template piece of wood. <S> Something thin enough to not get in the way but thick enough to hold <S> it's form. <S> Then chalk line <S> the end MDF, place the template in the right spot. <S> Clamp everything down really well. <S> Use a hand drill to drill the actual holes, and just go slowly. <S> The forstner bit, will actually help a lot with this. <S> Because it is thicker <S> the template wood piece will help keep it straight up and down until you're far enough into the MDF that it keeps the shape for you too. <S> The ideal wood for the template piece needs to be cheap, and a little thicker than your bit is deep. <A> The other option that no one has mentioned is to use a plunge router to "drill" the hole. <S> Because the base of the router is supported by the material, you have high assurances that the hole will be routed perfectly perpendicular to the surface. <S> Using a guide will also allow you to accurately position the holes and make repeated plunges. <S> If needed, the depth stop on a plunge router will also ensure your holes have a consistent depth.
| For drilling single holes in the middle of a piece of wood you can use a drill bushing to keep the bit perpendicular to the piece. An inexpensive older brace with a vintage 1" Jennings or Irwin auger will drill all the holes you'd need with little effort and are capable of great accuracy with only a little practice, and proper initial layout of course.
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How to join short boards to make a longer panel I'm pretty familiar with edge joining boards of the same width to make a panel (for a table top, cabinet door, or whatever) but I've never done a project where I also need to end join short boards, and I'm a little unsure of what order I should do the gluing in. Basically, I found several fairly short pieces of african rosewood at a great deal, and I'd like to make a desk top out of them. I'd like the desk to be 5 feet long, but most of the pieces of wood are 2.5-3 feet long. Do I first need to end join each board to get the overall 5' that I want, then glue those as I would any other panel? Or should I glue different length boards to the width I want, with uneven ends, and then keep gluing those until I get the length I'm looking for? For reference, this is what I'm talking about: <Q> Some related info in these previous Questions: <S> What are my options when laminating wood with butt joints? <S> How can I join two boards at the ends? <S> Usually the only reliable way of doing this sort of thing is to stagger the joints at the ends of the boards, so that they don't line up, ideally distributed through the glued-up panel as seen in much modern "butcher block" countertop material (e.g. from Ikea) and some tabletops on cheaper mass-produced furniture: <S> The above can and are done randomly as you can see. <S> But because you're not doing a large field with many smaller lengths I would plan ahead where you want to place each of the shorter boards. <S> This will help to minimise wastage as well as allow you to choose how the top surfaces of every board will go best together for best visual effect. <S> Thinking about it a bit more in this case it might be best to do the joints in a regular pattern because there are so few of them, sort of making a feature of them (as in the image you posted) rather than trying to hide them as there's a limit to how much you can reduce their visibility, unless the wood is particularly uniform which I imagine is not likely given <S> this is African rosewood! <A> Ashlar and Graphus have addressed how to lay out the joints on the long runs, and I agree with their answers. <S> If you try to do it the other way - making the width first, you'll end up with very, very tight slots to try to slip a new, short board into, and, if your other joints were done properly, you probably won't be able to. <S> Also, not specifically asked, but to make the butt joints, I'd suggested using finger joints like this: Image borrowed from woodgears.ca page on different finger joints. <S> However , I'd suggest you'll want to use a finger joint router bit like this: Image borrowed from toolstoday.com Since you want the joint to be hidden from the surface, not visible and highlighted. <S> Though, making the joint visible on the surface (as in my first image) would make your project quite unique! <A> If you start at one end gluing random lengths side by side you will create a series of recesses where the next board must be slid into the recess and glued and clamped individually. <S> It seems that getting everything parallel would be more challenging. <S> IF one board is not perfectly parallel with the end board with the edge , then you will be hard pressed to avoid a gap in a joint line. <S> I would suggest starting on one side and gluing several rows together at a time to get the best alignment and work across the whole width. <S> Make sure that the boards are fully supported during glue up on a very flat table or bench since the butt joints are very weak.
| As to the order the joints are made, you will need to join the shorter boards into longer ones, then join the long boards to make the correct width.
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What are some good ways to fasten beams to posts for a swing? What would be a smart and solid way to fasten the beams to the posts in this image. The beams will have swings for 2-3 adults hanging down from them.The posts and the beams are 4" x 4" (95mm) pine and the posts are about 10 feet tall. I don't want them coming crashing down on our head while swinging. Note that this is a pentagon and the beams will form a horizontal pentagon. (note that I posted an answer below how I ended up solving it) <Q> There are many ways this could be done, including multiple pure framing/joinery options some of which wouldn't even require any metal fasteners. <S> These kinds of all-wood joints are best done by pros though since even though this would now fall under "rough carpentry" <S> the fit would have to be at a level far in excess of what's normal for that, approaching that of cabinet work with tolerances well under 1/64" ideally. <S> A more modern joinery option that first occurred to me is to cut off the ends of the five beams at the correct angle (72°) and then form half-laps on each of them so that they can interlock. <S> The ends would look somewhat like this: <S> Source: <S> Hexabana <S> Then drill vertically through the joint and into the top of the post for a bolt which will tie the structure together. <S> I'd be tempted to just used metal reinforcement plates myself though, with plenty of screws, or bolts for maximum security. <S> Much faster and possibly more secure at the end of the day. <S> If you use a basic T-shaped connector on the inside angles for example these can be easily bent to suit the interior angle. <S> For the outside a basic steel band can be used, again custom bent to fit. <S> Regardless of the main joining option used some diagonal bracing <S> I think is a must-do, although joining a pentagonal structure to square-section beams at each corner will require some tricky fitting work. <A> This is classic post and beam construction and there are several ways to approach the connections. <S> One way is with mortise and tenon connections. <S> Note the short diagonal braces connecting the horizontal and vertical parts. <S> These braces should be applied in both directions to stiffen the assembly. <S> The photo is taken from <S> www.forestryforum.com <S> for a custom steel plate. <S> Your application does not have nearly the same loading requirements and could be much thinner steel. <S> There are many commercial options found at lumberyards or home improvement stores that would work. <S> If you do not like the appearance of the steel plates you can do something similar with wood plates applied to the sides of the posts and beams. <A> This is how I ended up doing it. <S> I even put some glue for good measure (although I'm not sure how effective it is). <S> To my surprise, I don't notice any racking while swinging <S> so I'm pretty happy with it. <S> Constructive criticism surely accepted.
| A second approach would be to use steel plates on each side of the joints.
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How brittle is carbide? I have Carbide grade tools like router bits, saw blades, etc. like everybody else. There are grades C2, C3 and C4, most of my tools are C3. They do say that it is brittle and if it hits the ground or something it shatters. I have dropped it a few times by accident but they never have broken before. Which makes me have the question as to how much it takes to break the carbide of the tools. Does it take a certain amount of pressure (like pounds or something) of impact for the carbide to shatter? Or is the cracking so small that I have no idea because it is so hard to see? <Q> It depends what it falls on :) <S> When I worked with a CNC mill, letting the tool drop 30cm from the spindle onto the steel worktable would practically inevitably chip it. <S> OTOH they would occasionally roll off the utility table about 120cm tall, onto linoleum floor <S> and I never chipped one that way. <S> Also, the damage is usually small and localized; a ~1mm chipped corner or such - hard to notice unless you inspect the tool closely. <S> It matters a lot with precise machining of small metal elements, but may go unnoticed with large tools for woodworking. <S> edit: <S> (I finished reading the question.) <S> The tools are very durable against constant pressure type stress, very hard and difficult to break. <S> They are vulnerable to shock though - impact against a hard object, and with carbide tools "hard" needs to be really hard - brass counts as "soft". <A> "How brittle is carbide?" is a little like asking "How rubbery is rubber?" It depends on the rubber how firm or rubbery it is, same in reverse for carbide. <S> The information provided in your previous Question, Tungsten Carbide grades would allow you to Google the technical specs for the various grades. <S> One way of answering the question on a practical level is that carbide is innately brittle, it will crack or chip before it will bend or fold as you can get on many equivalent steel tools or components. <S> As such every care should be taken not to drop it on a hard floor as it can and does fracture, possible rendering the blade or bit unsafe for use (think shrapnel ). <A> I have dropped carbide router bits on the floor a couple of times and nothing has happened. <S> The router did not suffer any damage at all, but added momentum for the impact. <S> Fortunately the crack was easily visible and I could discard the router bit before I was exposed to a projectile incident. <S> I recommend careful inspection of carbide cutters with a magnifying lense if they hit against something hard. <A> I agree with the other answers... <S> carbide will break or shatter, but only if hitting something extremely hard.... usually metal in my experience. <S> I've dropped carbide tool bits and end-mills before and they've bounced off a wood floor, chipped concrete, but dropped 8 inches onto the metal ways of a lathe, chipped the end off. <S> I think it all depends on the way they fall and hit the other surface. <S> hope that helps your understanding.
| I once dropped my router with a straight bit installed in it and one of the carbide cutters cracked (Murphy's law).
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Where do I put the standards for adjustable shelves? Is there a standard distance or formula for where to put standards for adjustable shelves? http://www.rockler.com/zinc-shelf-standards-select-length <Q> There are no set distances for shelf standards, the reason being that how close together you want or need them to be depends on various factors, including: Shelf material Shelf thickness <S> The expected load on the shelf <S> The distribution of the load Material <S> For an equivalent thickness particleboard/chipboard sags more readily than oak, pine sags more readily than plywood and so forth. <S> Thickness Thicker material resist sagging more than thinner material. <S> Weight Heavy power tools or numerous hardcover reference books will obviously tend to cause sagging more than a few softcover books or some knick-knacks. <S> Distribution <S> This is under-appreciated as a factor in how you mount, and subsequently load, shelves. <S> General advice to help prevent shelves from bowing includes not mounting the brackets right at the ends (although this is sometimes unavoidable and with some shelf material it's fine, especially if the loads are going to be light) and not positioning heavy items in the centre of a shelf as this exerts the greatest bending force. <S> Distribution of the load across the width of a shelf, or putting the heaviest items right over the supports can often be advised. <S> Another method that's not as commonly recommended is for when the brackets are not mounted right at the ends of a shelf, and here you can put heavy items on each end (outboard of the brackets) which can counterbalance the tendency towards sagging from a heavy load in the middle, within reason. <S> You may need more specifics than can be provided here so visit one of the go-to resources online, the Sagulator , if you need to calculate how much sagging you can expect for your chosen shelf material. <S> You might also like to read Shelving Spans for Bookcases on the Woodsmith etips site, and <S> this PDF from the Composite Panel Associations, a technical bulletin on the use of particleboard and MDF for shelving. <A> Those standards that you linked to are usually placed in pairs at both (in) sides of the case. <S> I've never used them as I just drill a line of holes to hold shelf pins. <S> It's the same idea, just cheaper once you've got the drilling jig. <S> I space a line of holes approx. <S> 1.5 - 2 inches in from the front edge and from the back <S> , so I would say you could also space the standards similarly. <S> It's what I would do if I used them. <S> To far apart - to close to the front/back edges - may not look as nice. <S> It's a bit of a judgement call. <A> If you want a rule, AWS (Architectural Woodwork Standards) is probably the best thing you can reference. <S> According to them ( section 10, available for purchase ), "Center Line of rests shall not exceed a minimum of 1" (25.4mm) to a maximum of 3" (76.2mm) from the front and back of the interior cabinet body. <S> " - AWS 2009 Section 10, 4.4.14.10.19. <S> In addition "The dimension between the center line of the rests shall not be less than 60% of the shelf's depth." and have "Three supports at each end of shelves over 29-3/4" (756mm) deep." <A> Not that I know of. <S> I did do a little research but found nothing. <S> So I assume there is nothing with it. <S> Besides that I do think there is no such thing. <S> My bookshelf has a spacing of 3/4 in. <S> While the product you have on this website shows 1/2. <S> So in the end I would go off of your like or convenience. <S> The norm for shelf distance is about 12-15". <S> But again, it is all off your liking
| There is no prescribed distance, but if you put them to close together, the shelf may tilt depending on placement of the load.
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