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techsupport
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This is a prebuilt pc which says a lot about my building knowledge
So I have the Corsair CX750M, 750W PSU (https://www.komplett.no/product/773377?noredirect=true#)
The gpu I am switching from is the gtx 780 which is connected to a 8pin, and a 6pin. But the new ASUS GeForce GTX 1080Ti ROG Strix gpu I bought needs two 8pins.
I have that x2 6pin to 8pin adapter it came with. Maybe there is something clearly I don see here that would connect them together. My first thought is to connect the 6 pin that my gtx 780 used to the adapter that came with the 1080 ti, but this wont surely work?
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techsupport
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So completely out of the blue, overnight my computer stopped functioning properly and everything really las behind and I have no idea what the issue might be. Everything is fine for the first couple minutes after booting up but that’s when everything starts to slow down. I noticed that when I open task manager during the initial start up the disk usage percentage shoots up to 99% but then gradually makes it way down then starts to fluctuate a little bit. I have 16 GB of ram yet 33% of memory is being used while nothing but background processes are running. I did notice a bit of a weird Grinding noise coming from the computer but after looking into it further the noise was coming from the Corsair liquid cooler and when the fan was unplugged the noise stopped but the computer continued to be slow. I’m not sure what kind of issue this could possibly be. I’ve cleaned out the inside, made sure the sata/psu cables were in tight, ran CCleaner, scanned for viruses with malware bytes and nothing turned up. I’m wondering what kind of issue this may be, whether it’s a disk, cpu, or memory issue.
Specs:
i7-4790k(never overclocked)
Gtx 1070 strix
16 gb ram
650 gold evga psu
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techsupport
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Motherboard: asrock z77 extreme4
Video Card: MSI R6950 Twin Frozr III
PS: Antec Neo ECO 620C
So I put my computer in sleep last night, but wouldn't wake this morning. I reset it, but nothing would display on my monitor, can't even see bios menu. I've tried a bunch of the solutions I've seen online and nothing has worked. I know my monitor & hdmi cables work, as I tested them with my laptop. My computer's fans turn on and led lights come on, but nothing for video input.
Also my error code on my motherboard led screen say A2, which is an ide/sata issue but unplugging my hard drive and optical drive didn't work. Also all the problems I've found online all seem to deal with new builds, while I've had this pc for almost 6 years now, and quit working overnight.
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techsupport
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Hello there, first time poster.
I have a Lenovo Y50-70 laptop that I use mainly for gaming. Under CPU+GPU load, the CPU is severely overheating, so much that even at minimum frequency (800MHz) and on a cooling pad it goes up to \~70°C. GPU doesn't throttle but still heats up to \~85°C.
I have recently cleaned the insides free of any dust and the fans are seemingly working properly, so I believe the culprits to the poor heat dissipation are 1) the air extraction located on the hinge (!), and 2) the thermal compound gone bad.
Since I obviously can't do anything about the first one, I was planning to buy some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, but I remembered I had some ProlimaTech thermal compound remaining in a syringe that was bundled with my heatsink from 5 years ago.
So my question is : can I use this 5-year-old thermal compound to put into my laptop, or should I just buy a new syringe ?
EDIT : added details about the ProlimaTech compound
----------
Thank you all for your input. I have decided to go ahead and buy new thermal paste to replace the old one.
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techsupport
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As the title says, I have a black screen since yesterday. The computer was working just fine the day before, temps were normal, everything was ok. Tried to boot it yesterday morning but the screen just stays black. Every fan and LED work. I tried to change my GPU, still a blackscreen. I then tried another monitor, still a black screen. Switched from DVI to HDMI, no results. I also tried to remove a RAM and then the other just to be sure, still no luck. Tried to plug my GPU into the other slot without success. I read somewhere that a dead mobo's battery could cause a black screen, so I decided to remove it for 2 hours and then plug it back, no difference. Note that the mobo's battery has a brown mark on it so it may be dead for good but could it rly cause a black screen ? I'm not sure if it's relevant but I can still open my CD/DVD drive. The computer does the same old sound it has always made, the only notable difference is the black screen.
My specs are :
Mobo : MSI 970A-G43
PSU : Corsair CX 430
GPU : Geforce GTX 1050 2go OC edition (The GPU isn't connected to the PSU)
CPU : AMD Fx6300 Black Edition
Ram : 2x Gskill RipJaws DDR3 1866
OS : W7 64 family edition premium
As you can see the computer is pretty old, but it has always been clean.
Any help is appreciated, thanks a lot to everyone who take the time to help me!
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techsupport
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**Solution** So, I opened up the computer to check the battery (somehow only broke one clip), and as /u/fuzzyspudkiss suggested, the ribbon cable connecting the power button to the motherboard has come detached. Put it back in place, and now we’re up and running again! My guess is he fucked it up by opening the computer, got scared, and tried to blame it on a “what’re the chances???” software problem. Thanks for everyone’s help and suggestions. As an aside, I chewed my roommate out and he bought me two sushi rolls for dinner tonight!
I’ll be straight up. I’m not naturally inclined towards computers, but I can usually figure things out with a bit of reading. I’m totally stumped on this one though.
My roommate just got a job in IT, and loves messing with computer shit. I was complaining about a sluggish laptop, and he asked me if I wanted him to “tune up” my laptop. I said sure (that was fucking stupid).
I don’t have a clue what he did or how he got to disabling buttons and keys and shit, but he someone got the main power button disabled. He also left the laptop sitting out over night without a charge without turning the switch back on. I guess it was low enough on battery that it went into hibernation/died.
Anyway, I can’t get it to do anything without that button. I’ve tried hooking it up to my desktop, but because it was a budget Dell, the only possible connection was either HDMI or USB, and since the computer is off, neither of those were helpful.
Any ideas?
Edit: the laptop is a Dell Inspiron 13 7000 series; Reg model: P69G
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techsupport
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Hello guys, I have a problem configuring a raid0 setup.
My motherboard is de SLI x99 Krait edition, and my windows 10 is installed on a m.2 drive on board. I have 4 separated ssd's connected via sata, and I want to make a raid0 out of them.
I followed the instructions I found online, set the bios (updated to last version) to RAID mode, CTR+I on restart, configured the raid and selected the drives, then exit. When I restart in RAID mode, I get a message of wrong booting device, but even selecting my os drive on the boot menu gets me the same message. When I set the bios to AHCI I can boot normally, but the raid isn't working. If i go again to RAID mode, and enter the raid setup with CTRL-I, the status on the RAID says "FAILED".
Can you guys give me any advice?
Thank you!
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techsupport
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Hi Guys! I'm new on building a PC and I just purchased a new Motherboard but when I plugged all my previous peripherals, There's No Post and Monitor is always shows Power Saving mode. I Tried changing Cmos Battery, Reset it, Reseat my Processor, Used my PSU from my other PC, Change Ram slots, Use my other VGA, Changed my Power and Monitor cables but to no avail still shows no Signal. I dunno what to do and I'm stuck on this PC for 3 days already :(
Here is my Specs
Mobo: ASRock H61M-S
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
RAM: 2 x 4gb Corsair Vengeance 1600MHz
PSU: Antec 520w
VGA: PowerColor Radeon HD 6570 2gb
Thank you in Advance!
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techsupport
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I've had this printer for a few years and it worked well for the first year or so then just stopped printing. It kept giving me errors and I didn't know why. My bf finally figured it out (stupidly simple problem) it had a spring that got jammed in the rollers that take in the paper.
So by this time it had sat for a few months not being used and the ink had not yet dried up completely (surprisingly) and it worked again! I didn't need to use this printer for a few months again as I had gotten a job and wasn't doing my art as often.
Fast forward a maybe 4-5 months and I needed to use it to scan something and it now won't connect to my laptop. I know the ink is dried up now and I don't need to print anything I just want to scan something but it doesn't even show up on my computer while it's plugged in and on. The big red \[X\] is flashing and the 2 ink drop icons are flashing because it has no/dried ink but I should still be able to scan things.
My computer info (what I can tell): HP 15-f387wm Windows 10
​
I can't afford a new better all-in-one printer but this one keeps giving me issues. Please help if you can!
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techsupport
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I made a post here yesterday about how I think maybe my GPU is broken. Turns out afaik it's working fine, so I tried to look at other possible solutions. I started Golf with Friends again and took a look at task manager, the moment I started Golf with Friends with 2FPS I also noticed that my CPU was running at full speed, 100%. Idle (not running the game) It's at 15-20%. As I stated in my previous post, I got a local PC shop to put my pc back together after I moved overseas, and the only thing they had to do was reapply thermal paste and connect my CPU cooler and GPU to the machine again. Is this just a case of someone doing a bad job with the thermal paste, or can it maybe be software related?
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techsupport
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Hi,
I'm getting 50 FPS less than I should on games such as Fortnite. I got the PC today, and compared to other PC's with the same GPU and CPU, I am getting worse performance.
Specs:- MSI 1080 Aero OC- Ryzen 7 2700x- 16GB of RAM @ 3000 Mhz- 600W EVGA BR Bronze Rated 80+ PSU- Prime B450-Plus Motherboard
My 1080 reaches a MAX temp of 82 degrees and I put everything on the highest settings (EPIC) at 1080p on Fortnite, but I don't think there is a problem with it as my clockspeed is 1800 Mhz which is good (or is it?).
But a big problem I think is that on Windows 10 it says that I have 16GB of RAM, but only 8GB is usable. AND on CPU-Z it says that my RAM only has a speed of 2133 Mhz. In the BIOS, I set the AI Overclock Tuner to D.O.P.C and it says the Memory Speed is 3000 Mhz, but what I found weird is that when I exited, it says I changed the AI Overclock Tuner from Auto to D.O.P.C but it doesn't say the Memory Speed changed. Then I manually changed the Memory Speed and it still doesn't pop up. My BIOS is up to date.
Will the RAM problem give me a decent sized decrease in FPS?
For extra info, I bought a cheap Windows 10 licensing key and installed Windows on a USB on another PC and transferred it to my new PC. Maybe it's the OS?
Thanks a bunch guys!
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techsupport
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One example is: If I have Windows XP Professional, the only Windows Vista OS types I can upgrade to are Vista Ultimate and Vista Business. for any other vista edition it needs to be a clean install.
I do tech support for work and i'm looking for an easy reference guide so I don't have to look this crap up every time I have a customer or client with a specific upgrade path I haven't been exposed to yet. Lets just say my boss/coworkers aren't all that helpful because sadly I know more than them about computer tech support. it's kinda sad.
this kind of thing is easy to find for the windows editions i'm most likely to find out there, but for editions like the enterprise edition and the education edition, it's a little harder. I'm looking for an all-inclusive reference. I'm sure there's probably an official windows support webpage somewhere that has this information, but I guess my google search ability just doesn't cut it.
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techsupport
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TL;DR I have bad wifi when other people use it at same time, I want to get ethernet to computer but wifi is a floor up and I cannot move it! I need help finding a solution!
Ok hopefully this post won’t get too long. I live in a house with 4 people and in a 3 story house a big basement (where my computer is), main floor (where wifi is), and upstairs. Basically I am a big gamer and most games i average around 30 ping when it is just me on the wifi but as soon as another member of the house starts streaming Netflix or even something as simple as google my ping skyrockets and I cannot preform any tasks. I have the ability to move the wifi router to my basement and plug in ethernet that way and my wifi is amazing even if 2 other people are streaming or playing games. But the downside of moving the router is this ruins the wifi in the top floor where the other person who mainly uses the wifi works/plays. I was thinking about getting a 50 foot ethernet cable and just running it across the floor but it would probably be a huge eyesore and the other people wouldn’t like it. I started doing research and heard about this thing called a wifi bridge and you can plug it into a wall socket and then get ethernet from there. Not sure if this is the best solution or even if this would work. I would love help and if i need to give more specifications just let me know!
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techsupport
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About 2 months ago I dissasembled my dad's old PC, and it had a 320 GB drive. My friend is really tight on storage on his PC, and I want to give him this drive, but before that I want to wipe it. Problem is, it has a virus on it (Same virus that made headlines in 2016 that infected a ton of hospitals and requested "ransom" to unlock it). How do I wipe it without nuking my own hard drive?
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techsupport
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I just got a new laptop that I'm going to use to record gameplay and then transfer the footage to my desktop to edit.
I originally planned to record the files directly onto an external hard drive so I could just transfer them from there to my desktop. However, I've tried this before, and it is much slower than recording to an internal hard drive.
My next thought was to record onto an internal hard drive then take the hard drive out of my laptop and use an enclosure for the transfer. I'm going to be doing this weekly, though, and I feel like taking apart the laptop that often could shorten its lifespan.
Another option would be to use ethernet to connect the two computers and transfer that way. I've heard mixed things about this, and I haven't researched it extensively.
The final option I know of is to use a USB 2.0 bridged cable to connect the computers and transfer that way. This seems the most simple, but probably the slowest considering it's 2.0.
If there are any other options that would be better than the ones I listed, please let me know. If not, which of these is the most efficient?
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techsupport
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So a couple of days ago I bought an ASUS USB AC68 wifi adapter. At the time I was deciding between the USB and PCI-E versions but I stuck with this out of convenience.
​
When I got home, I plugged it in, installed the drivers and it worked. However my download and upload speeds were much slower than expected. Looking up the wifi status from the Network Connections window, it says the connection speed is 1.3Gbps. However when I use [speedtest.net](https://speedtest.net), I only get about 50Mbps download. I tried the adapter with my macbook, leaving the adapter in the same spot, and got 170Mbps download. The next day I tried it with my brother's laptop about 2 feet away from the router and only got 50Mbps again.
​
Is there a reason for the difference in speeds on Mac OS and windows? Should I exchange this for the PCI-E one?
​
I have tried reinstalling the drivers, using the realtek driver, clearing my cache, turning off IPv6, and googling over and over with no results.
​
If anyone can point me towards a good solution or explain what is going on, that would be amazing. I am pretty unfamiliar with how all this works. It isn't anywhere near the advertized 1300Mbps speeds but even getting close to my macbook's speeds would be enough for me to not feel like it was a waste of money.
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techsupport
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Hi,
It all started while playing a game (zynga poker). One day I noticed my chips were gone. I contacted support which returned said chips and suggested using 2-factor auth, changing psw, etc... I'm already cautious, like not clicking on any advertisement on requests or anything else, nevertheless, you guessed it, a few days later same happened.
At this point, I'm not even mad, but quite curious how this can even happen again and where I can look further.
I always log out from that profile and the psw is not stored. I delete history daily.
I have an up to date av (kaspersky), win10 is up to date.
As suggested I ran malwarebytes which found adware.elex.shrtcln, HitmanPro as the av didn't find anything.
At this point, as said before, I don't care anymore for any chips, but I wonder wether it is my whole system that is compromised, in which case I guess I'm in for a reformat/reinstall or just my chrome/facebook. Any ideas, any guesses?
Thanks for reading
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techsupport
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Hi,
I'm wanting to wipe and do a clean install on my laptop. There's too much junk and whatnot, and at this point I feel I'd be better off wiping and reinstalling the programs I need, and copying a backup of my files onto the machine.
My main queries are:
I have my OS installed on an SSD, but also have a 1TB HDD, so I'm a little unsure what to do there.
Windows 8 came preinstalled and did not ask me to create any installation files - not sure if that's just an antiquated process.
It is a laptop made by Gigabyte and has some software on it which controls the bluetooth, fans, webcam etc. Again, not sure what would happen there.
Any advice on this topic would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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techsupport
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Soo earlier today out of the blue Google stopped working on my PC. I was talking with some friends on discord, and they were able to hear me. I decided to reboot my pc. Now I don't have a connection at all. Just to be clear, I have access to the internet on other devices, so it isn't the router and my wifi adapter has signal, my PC is just not connecting to the internet. Thanks in advance for all help!
Update: It's fixed now! Thanks for your help!
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techsupport
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Alright, so i've been having a bunch of problems with a laptop a currently mainly with cs go. i've been only getting about 22 fps max. so i opened task manager to see what was going and i saw that my gpu on my apu was only using about 15% while playing cs go. Cpu usage was at around 95% and ram usage was about 80% while playing cs go. Can anyone help me to get better fps?.
Laptop Specs:
AMD 6th 9200 R4 APU
4gb ram
ATA 500gb hard drive
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techsupport
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No matter what I do on my gaming computer I can't get the internet to stay consistently within a good range for me to game. I'm about 50 feet from the router, every other computer in the apartment gets between 80 mbps to 106 mbps, I updated all my drivers. and yet my down speed is still around 2 mbps and maybe 10 mbps up.
I'm at my wits end here, i've tried multiple different methods, i even tried using a wifi extender. No dice.
I ran a full scan using BitDefender. No viruses or malware.
Any advice? Anything I haven't tried?
EDIT: to all of you telling me to get an Ethernet connection: if that was an option, OBVIOUSLY I would do that
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techsupport
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Hi.
So yesterday I finally decided I should change my cpu cooler.
Opened the computer, unscrewed the cooler, and after removing it, noticed the cpu was gone. So I looked under the cooler, and there it was, very firmly stuck.
I had to spend a good ammount of time heating them up with a hair dryer to make it budge and removing it.
Then I put the cpu back in its socket, after removing the remaining thermal paste and applying a new one. And I tried to install the cooler, and did it wrong, so I removed it and the cpu was stuck to it again, though this time it was easy to unstick. But now everytime I'm going to try to install the cooler, the cpu's going to stick to it, and there seems to be no way to make the cpu just stay on its socket.
But anyway, I decided I should at least try to see if the computer even boots before I spend hours even trying to install a cpu that could have been too damaged by my clumsy attempts to even work anymore.
So I put it un the socket, without the cooler, try to turn the pc on, with every intention of shutting it down immediately. But nothing happened.
No fans spinning, no light inside the case, nothing, except a few two leds lit on behind the case and some peripherals lights (keyboard and mouse).
I really don't know what to do. Is it the power supply that stopped working for seemingly no reason ? Is it the cpu that's too damaged and the mobo that stops even the psu from running when it doesn't detect a cpu? Is it something else?
I'm getting seriously depressed with this. Please help.
Cpu: Ryzen 7 1700
Mobo: asus prime b350-plus.
**EDIT: Thank you very much for your help everyone. Turns out a got a few bent pins, and they're fairly microscopic, so I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy a new one, hoping it's the only problem and I don't have to change the motherboard as well.**
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techsupport
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I recently got [this computer](https://www.ultrabookreview.com/19725-asus-tuf-fx504ge-review/) and I've been having this issue and I don't know how to fix it. I've looked it up in some forums online but I can't seem to find any solutions.
​
So the issue is, if I have my computer's brightness set as let's say 0%, the lowest, whenever I open certain games the brightness changes to max.
​
So I am looking at the screen with minimum brightness and when I alt-tab into the game, it remains at 0% for less than 1 second, sometimes more, but then it rapidly flashes and changes to max. So that's what makes me believe it's an actual problem since I can see how the game would look at minimum brightness but then it changes to max. If I alt-tab back out, it goes back to whatever I set again.
​
I've tried some games to see if it would be the game's issue (even tho I don't even that many installed right now) and the issue happens consistently in games like Overwatch and Dark Souls 3. It does NOT happen in games like Battlerite or Warframe. So it definitely doesn't happen in all games.
​
[Here's a shitty video that I made to ilustrate the problem.](https://streamable.com/3d6mi)
​
In the video, the brightness is set to 0%, I alt-tab into Overwatch in fullscreen, the screen flashes and the brightness goes up, I change it to windowed mode and the brightness goes back down to 0%, now when it goes back to fullscreen it actually remains in 0%, I have to alt-tab back out and in again for it to happen again.
​
Any help would be apreciated.
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techsupport
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I have [PC \(64 Bit Windows 10 pro home\)](https://i.imgur.com/CidkK2L.jpg) and an AMD A-10 R7 4 GZ processor with 16 GB RAM. I've been playing on this for the last 4 years, but ever since a few weeks ago (8/27/18), I haven't been able to run Rocket League or any other games (Borderlands, Darkest Dungeon, etc.) for more than a few minutes. My game keeps crashing and my system automatically shuts down. I notice when it'll shut down by frame rates skipping, the game slowing down, and then the computer shuts down. I have never had issues with this before, and have been able to run RL for hours upon hours before this with the game playing smoothly. I have updated everything and removed programs that I don't use.
The RAM is being recognized. In a [previous post](https://www.reddit.com/r/RocketLeague/comments/9c99sv/technical_help_needed_pc_keeps_restarting_after_a/), someone recommended replacing the power supply, and I've replaced the power supply to a 600W power supply (EVGA 600 B1, 80+ BRONZE 600W) and this problem still exists. I'd rather not scrap this system and build/buy another one if there's a fix. I've reseated the RAM, and checked to see if the GPU is seated properly and it is.
I have not tried thermal paste, but I'm willing to try if you guys suggest it. I'll use the "pea method" to use it if needed.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
Edit: Temps w/o game running: https://i.imgur.com/36WUVoA.jpg
Temps w/ RL running: https://i.imgur.com/mR4Pt9Z.jpg
Edit: Ended up buying a new graphics card that fixed the issue. Thanks to /u/itsmeurbrothr for your help.
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techsupport
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My pc tends to be absolutely fine until a W10 update (one happened recently that I've been experiencing issues with). Post update I get hard resets while playing the same games that were previously stable. Once my pc resets, it doesn't boot to Windows again and I have to switch off/on the psu to restart.
Only happens when I'm gaming (currently playing Warhammer Total War). I have no overclocks, and I built the rig myself so no bloatware or 3rd party drivers. Everything is up to date since windows updated. I have checked psu voltages in the bios and gpu/cpu temps and everything is within acceptable bounds. Memory is checked and fine, so are my drives and event viewer shows no relevant errors/warnings. I have reseated all power cables to make sure.
All the Google searches I have carried out seem to point towards overheating/hardware issues but I've checked/monitored everything to within acceptable levels and it's only happening when I play warhammer total war. Same thing happened when playing The Division about a year ago. I played that fine up until a windows update. Haven't been able to play it since.
I'm happy to provide any details needed to help diagnose. I'm stumped.
Edit:
System specs:
AMD FX8350.
ASUS M5A78L-M/USB.
16gb Kingston predator 2133 (running at default 1333mhz for compatability).
Asus strix gtx 970.
Corsair HX 850 PSU.
Kingston hyper x 120gb SSD (OS install).
Seagate barracuda 1tb (steam library).
Windows 10 home.
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techsupport
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Hi,
I am an IT Apprentice at a medium sized office, currently on my own as the rest of the department is on leave.
This morning someone tried to print something that got stuck in the spooler queue and prevented everyone from printing. I had no luck removing it from the queue via: see what's printing -> Cancel documents.
​
Fresh out of ideas I decided to restart the Printer Spooler on the server (Win server 2012).
The service shut down fine but afer restarting it, it has been stuck on "Start Pending" for about 4 hours now.
"sc query spooler" returns the state of: <NOT\_STOPPABLE, NOT\_PAUSABLE, IGNORES\_SHUTDOWN>
net stop/start spooler tells me that the service is stopping or starting and to try again later.
&#x200B;
I am a little bit out of my league here. Is this normal for a service to take so long to restart? Could something be preventing it from restarting?
I plan to stay late and restart the server this evening outside of office hours to see if the service will start on boot as usual. Is this advisable?
&#x200B;
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techsupport
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Ok so I'm gonna have to admit it at first... I'm a dumbass. I was installing an elgato HD60 Pro and I had that in the PCIe slot under my MSI Aero GTX 1080, had the HDMI plugged in and everything but no output (I had the hdmi cables messed up I realize now) so I unplugged the HDMI cables from the GPU but one of the cables would not be removed from the GPU. Turns out it was one of those cords that you have to push in the little button to release it, something I didn't notice until after I pulled... a lot... I realized it had a release and once I pushed it, the cable released normally. Now, however, the GPU does not work at all. The mobo is ok since I plugged in my RX 580 and everything runs fine, but I get no output when I plug the 1080 in and the fan does not start. I'm hoping the problem I created I can fix, as the card is a second hand card from a friend and it has worked fine for months. Please, if you know a fix like maybe just a capacitor or something to repair, let me know. Appreciate it.
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techsupport
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This issue has been happening for around a month now, whenever I play a GPU intensive game I loose video signal until the PC is rebooted. It can happen after 30 minutes of playing or after hours. Temps are pretty warm, but not hot enough to be the issue (80-84c under full load).
&#x200B;
I was told today to increase the core voltage on the card by +15mV which I have done and it hasn't lost signal yet, however its too early to tell if its fixed or not. I'll play some games later and update the post on if it happens or not.
&#x200B;
Just want some opinions on what you all think the issue could be, and if the +15mV increase does fix the problem why has it suddenly required this voltage increase when the card has been fine for years beforehand?
&#x200B;
Thanks.
&#x200B;
Specs:
EVGA GTX 780TI Superclocked Edition
i7 2600 @3.4ghz
12GB RAM
Corsair TX850M PSU
2TB HDD
Windows 10 Pro
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techsupport
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I am using Windows 10, DVDStyler, an external Asus SDRW-08D2S-U DVD drive, and whatnot.
Everything else works, but twice now, that's two wasted DVD-R discs, it's failed at 95.06%. I tried reconnecting my disc drive, I've plain just tried again, but it just doesn't work. The only "successful" DVD burnings I've had have been making an ISO in DVDStyler and burning it with ImgBurn or just with Windows' default burning thing. Not Media Player. Just the option when right-clicking an ISO. These turn out to be data discs that won't play on my PS2, and probably not on a DVD player either. You have to navigate to the file on the PS3 to watch the video, and it doesn't include the menu I put hours into.
50.11% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:28:29 2018
55.02% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:28:06 2018
60.18% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:27:46 2018
65.09% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:27:29 2018
70.01% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:27:13 2018
75.16% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:26:56 2018
80.08% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:26:43 2018
85.24% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:26:30 2018
90.15% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:26:19 2018
95.06% done, estimate finish Wed Sep 19 20:26:07 2018
\\.\D:: "Current Write Speed" is 8.2x1352KBps.
:-( unable to WRITE@LBA=1d76e0h: Tidsgränsen för semaforen har uppnåtts.
:-( write failed: Tidsgränsen för semaforen har uppnåtts.
\\.\D:: flushing cache
:-[ FLUSH CACHE failed with SK=6h/POWER ON, RESET, OR BUS DEVICE RESET OCCURRED]: En enhet som är ansluten till datorn fungerar inte.
\\.\D:: updating RMA
\\.\D:: closing disc
mkisofs: Broken pipe. cannot fwrite 32768*1
Failed
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techsupport
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Hey everyone!
Recently my friend was able to procure a Packard Bell Legend 933 Supreme. I have been helping him try to get it to function once again.
Here are the specs:
\- Intel i486 processor
\- Some network card
\- Some motherboard with the tag 'PheonixBIOS A486SX'
\- A 270 mb hard drive
\- 640 kb of RAM
Here's the problem:
It turns on to the boot screen does a memory check beeps screen flashes Phoenix logo is gone and it says missing OS
This, coupled with drive errors whenever a load is attempted.
Here's what we've done:
\- Re-formatted and installed Dos 6.22 on the hard drive
\- Cleaned the read write heads of the floppy drives
\- Shut off the floppy drives entirely and try again
\- Removing the networking card
Any help is appreciated, thanks!
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techsupport
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This is my first time posting here and I'm not very good with computers, so be gentle :-)
I have two computers, one is a Mac running windows 7 and the other is an Asus running 8.1...
I want to upgrade both of them to Windows 10, but there are a lot of programs and files, on both computers, I don't want to loose in the process...
Is there any free way to do this?
I only have a windows 7 product key...
Thanks in advance!
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techsupport
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downloaded the patch and these are the instructions
I got up to Open a command prompt window with administrator privileges. That I can do but dont understand how to "Run the executable file from the common prompt"
It gives the example 82579VSKUW64e. I see that file but dont know how to make it go.
THanks!
----------------------------------------
Tool to update the NVRAM for the Intel® 82579V Gigabit Ethernet PHY
Copyright (C) 2012 Intel Corporation
Three tools are included, to support three different operation systems (Windows 32 bit; Windows 64 bit; DOS).
Steps to run the update tool:
1. Download the utility from the Intel download center
2. Select the correct tool file name based on the operating system installed
3. Open a command prompt window with administrator privileges
4. Run the executable file from the common prompt
5. The NVM image will be updated. Reboot the computer for best results.
Usage: [Tool_file_name] [options]
-log [filename] - generate log info
-report [filename] - generate report file
-nosilent - display the user interface
Example command line using the Windows* 64 bit operating system:
82579VSKUW64e -nosilent
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techsupport
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Hello, I purchased a new M.2 NVME SSD drive today.
I'm trying to clean install Windows 10 on it, but I'm unsuccessful.
I boot up the disk with the installer, choose the SSD drive, click "next", then it performs the installation. After it's done it's going back to the installer like nothing happened.
And then when I choose the SSD drive again, it says
"Windows cannot be installed to this disk. This computer's hardware may not support the booting to this disk. Ensure that the disk's controller is enabled in the bios menu"
What can I do to be able to install Windows on the SSD?
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techsupport
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I have a computer connected to a domain. The startup page of google chrome is the domains home page. I need to change this on this computer only, I have got the adm file for gpedit and changed startup pages, went to registry and changed startup page, and disable edit access for all uses and set owner to none, my admin account, and trusted installer, but it changes on startup of chrome on all of these. How can I disable domain control over chrome but leave my local admin polices working?
Edit: I do not have a domain administrator account, so I can only make changes this computer.
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techsupport
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&#x200B;
Hello. Ive had my PC for nearly 4 years and I've encountered an issue that is driving me up the wall.
Every time I am playing a relatively demanding game (Black Desert Online, Rainbow Six Seige) my PC will stop and freeze entirely with no forewarning after about an hour of playtime. No bluescreens, no error codes, no frame drops prior, no signs of hardware stress prior. Everything just stops, my computer stops responding entirely. Again, with no indication as to why.
Things I have done to attempt to resolve the issue:
I contacted support for Black Desert Online (this game is where I initially had the issue) they told me it was an issue with my windows install. I re-installed windows. The issue still persists.
I have re-seated my RAM, and I am open to more suggestions.
I suspect it may be something to do with my hard drive failing. My computer runs on a single 1TB HDD
I have run CrystalDiskInfo
[See Here](https://imgur.com/a/QId1lCD)
[And Here](https://imgur.com/a/p8Oz3R2)
I have updated my GPU Drivers.
My Partlist is
* AMD FX-8350
* R9 280
* 8 GB DDR3(?) RAM
* 700w Power Supply
* 1TB 7200 RPM HDD
I am open to any suggestions, and I am desperate for help.
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techsupport
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So I went to turn on my inspiron 7567 and I heard a sparking sound. I know that's not good. So I immediately turn it off and open it up, and a loose screw falls out. and i look closer to where it came out from and see this. https://imgur.com/3ERz8qr What should I do? Is my laptop a write off? Any Help is appreciated. I really hope I don't have to get another laptop...
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techsupport
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Been on Amazon for over an hour and cannot figure out wtf kind of adapter to make my wife's 2nd monitor work properly.
PC has a VGA port, monitor has a DVI-D port. I need male to male, every adapter I find seems fine, but it says it only works with DVA(monitor) -> VGA(pc) and not VGA(pc) -> DVI (monitor
Can anyone please point me in the right direction? Would prefer a cable over an adapter as I may need to buy either a VGA or DVI-D cable as well.
THANK YOU!!!
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techsupport
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I decided to run a long HDMI cable from my PC to my living room TV. I'm trying to decide whether I should get a 40 feet cable just to be safe (if I decide to move my PC further away later or something), or try to keep it as short as possible (will have to measure, but probably around 20-25 feet)
I'm doing it mostly for 4k gaming on my OLED TV in the living room. Would that work?
Also any difference between doing this with a PC vs PS4? Would one work better over the other for any reason?
Also, these cables will be running through the walls. Does that have a further impact?
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techsupport
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My phone has been alerting me lately that Snapchat's doing stuff in the background. When I look at the permission history log, it reads: "The apps below were detected using permissions in the background. [...]"
It then lists three seperate times on the 21st.
One time yesterday.
Five times today.
All of these were of Snapchat using my camera when I didnt have it open. It's a little funky. Is that normal? If I disable its permissions then I cannot use the app to communicate with friends. Can anything be done? (I have an s9 if that helps. I've only ever recieved these notifications on this phone.) Thank you in advanced! 😊
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techsupport
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This is a weird question, not sure if this is even the right forum but here goes. I had an iPhone repaired at a shop. The device started malfunctioning after the repair so it brought it back. It did not before the repair. They repaired it but it continued malfunctioning. I brought it back and they refused to fix it and said I'd have to contact corporate for a solution. At that point, they were closing and I couldn't come back that week so I decided to keep it there while the issue got resolved. I declined to give them the password because of work info on it. Corporate ultimately would not do anything about the stores refusal to fix it so I told them I'd be disputing it with my card and determining if I would take them to small claims for the cost of the device. I cannot pick up the device until later this week, so it's now been there for almost 2 weeks and it'll be 3 weeks until I have time to pick it up again. Even though I did not give them the password, I typed it in front of them and in front of their camera and I'm sure with technology today they could easily brute force it? It's only a 4 number password. How can I determine that? Considering how heated things have gotten between us and the fact I told them I might sue.... it seems plausible they could have done something and just want to know how to determine if they did.
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techsupport
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My webcam goes haywire unless I bend the display a little bit backward (pressing the wire in I am guessing) but I can't figure out how to get into the top bezel because there are no screws and I don't want to break anything for my stupid webcam. Does anyone know how I can get into the display bezels without ruining or breaking anything during or after if there are no screws?
The screen bezels look like [this](https://www.trustedreviews.com/reviews/gigabyte-p35x-v6)
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techsupport
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Keep in mind that I JUST turned it on after it being off for almost 2 days. My laptop is an ASUS and it IS pretty old, around 5 years or so, but I had also somewhat recently put on new thermal paste (within the last two years or so?) and I added a tiny bit more ram (just 6gb to 8gb is all) [https://imgur.com/DUut2eE](https://imgur.com/DUut2eE) the only thing that is open right now is opera with only like 5 tabs open.
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techsupport
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Recently (in the past week) my pc has been freezing randomly and then bluescreening with this error. It doesn't happen often, once a day at most, and usually just tends to happen when I'm browsing the internet and not running any high demand programs or anything. Here is a screenshot of what the memory dump of the crash shows. https://i.imgur.com/LVftb9r.png
I've updated my GPU drivers and a few others, any more advice would be appreciated. Hopefully it's not a hardware problem.
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techsupport
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I've been trying to figure out what is happening to the space on my hdd as it seems to be vanishing. I don't know what is going on.
I'm running Win 10 pro, and the C drive is an ssd. I've been running a lot of Blender and UE4 projects from this disk for a few months, could I somehow be killing sections of the HDD and they are just being cut off?
edit: Thank you for so many helpful answers, sorry it took so long to mark it as solved. Everyone had helpful information, and my hdd was kind of a mess all over the place lol.
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techsupport
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I have an msi gs60 6qe ghost pro laptop (for 3 years) , recently i had trouble booting up , and decided to update my bios.
so i downloaded all updates from msi website and started installing them chronologically, but i think i made a mistake and jumped one, resulting in a blank screen , can't access bios (no screen lights or logo) keyboard lights and fans are working but nothing else.
i disassembled every piece, cleared cmos , took ssd and hdd out , and drained the battery with no luck.
What should i do ?
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techsupport
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So i've been having huge problems with microstutter happening like every 0-1.5 sec, it's incredibly annoying and makes csgo unplayable, it happens in GTA V aswell.
What i've done so far:
Formatted the computer, clean OS barely anything running.
Turned off speedstep in BIOS
Turned Power mode on in nvidia windows settings.
Modified settings in nvidia control panel
Turned on XMP for ram in BIOS.
Upped the fanspeed on GPU as it was running a little hot so I thought the problem was cause of the heat.
Installed correct and latest drivers(I think(?) I used driver booster that installs all drivers in one go.
Specs:
Gtx 1080
I7 7700K 4.6 with turbo.
16gb 2400mhz ram
Help me lads, this is really annoying me.
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techsupport
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I updated the bios on my asus p6t to the newest from asus website. After posting it gets stuck at blinking cursor on a blank screen. It won't boot from ssd or USB. Same results on i7 920 and x5660. Any help is appreciated.
Just tried to boot on the second latest bios same issue.
Update: I got it to install Vista from USB. It is running normal. Not sure how to get windows 10 on, it has the same install issue on other versions of windows.
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techsupport
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I switched to a static IP, turned off my firewalls, and opened a port yesterday so my friends could play with me. It worked and all, it was cool. Im logging back on today and they couldnt connect so I ran a test on a website but it says my port is closed. I have a xfinity router. I went into my router to check and according to it, the port is open, and the port info has not changed. what could be the issue?
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techsupport
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similar maybe but how you get infected is different
iirc and i may be wrong here but viruses are like the comon cold or flu they spread just by contact you dont need to do anything for it to spread and are usualy more damaging. malware usualy spreads by intent ie something you install, view or watch will infect you but it wont spread elsewhere unless you install, view or watch the same thing on another machine, malware is usualy just a nuiscence or inconvience
dare i say it but if you google "difference between virus and malware" you will get a better idea ;)
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techsupport
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I asked about the mainboard pins because I’ve had first hand experience building a new pc and fucking it up. In my case the pc would post with ram in one slot but not the other.
I asked about the cpu plug because it’s surprisingly common thing for people to forget.
It may be a good idea to update your post with specifically what tests you’ve done, so people know. I see you’ve posted some things on there and also said that you’ve done everything.
Do you have access to another computer to format a flash drive and download a new bios to? Most new mainboard have some way of flashing the bios without fully POSTing. Like a specific port on the mainboard or a button somewhere on it.
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techsupport
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It seems most likely that they're load balancing multiple internet connections in order to supply enough bandwidth to all of their customers. I suspect that something with their load balancing is breaking your connections. In some load balancing situations the balancing happens on a connection basis so if a game or service establishes multiple connections for one session and sees you coming hopping back and forth between multiple public IP's it could look like a man in the middle attack is happening and you connection could be dropped. An example of what I'm talking about on a straight forward level is that FTP establishes a connection on port 21 over which all communications for setting up the data transfer and file browsing occur. Actual data transfers occur on a completely separate port / connection. So if your port 21 connection was coming from one IP and the data transfer was trying to be established from a second IP a good FTP server would drop your connection because the connection could be compromised. A VPN would resolve the issue because it would funnel all of your traffic out of one single public IP.
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techsupport
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Never mind my other question i checked my roaming folder for any suspicious files and ran a few antivirus scans and didnt find anything. My system looks to be running like normal the usage of my ram/cpu/gpu didnt go up so i think im all good. Normally i dont click on random stuff i dont know i just messed up this time without paying attention to the link.
Thanks for your help :)
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techsupport
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While that is a public address, if you got that by going to ip4.me, then there's no guarantee that that's your router's address. An ISP performing CGNAT will present a different IP address to sites like that than what's assigned to your router.
AC1350 is a speed rating. TP-Link has two routers with that speed rating. I'm guessing you have either the Archer C59 or C60. I think they have a similar UI.
You want to look for the IP address listed under the Internet heading in this [screenshot](http://screenshots.portforward.com/routers/TP-Link/Archer_C59/Basic_Network_Map.jpg). Alternatively, the IP address is also listed in the Internet section in this [screenshot](http://screenshots.portforward.com/routers/TP-Link/Archer_C59/Advanced_Status.jpg).
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techsupport
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I have no idea what kind of modem it is. It's a rental from my ISP and there are no identifying markers anywhere on it. No brand, no model, no serial number. All I can tell you is it kind of looks like a mini version of an original model Playstation 2. If it does have a router built in, then the guys who installed everything made no mention of it.
As far as the second part goes, how do I go about doing that?
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techsupport
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(assuming you're running windows), try this
hit the windows key+R at the same time, the run box will pop up
in there type in cmd and hit enter
in the command prompt box that comes up, type ipconfig and hit enter. in there should be something along the lines of Ethernet Adapter, and it will give you an ipv4 address. Is that the same 209.206.x.x, or is it a 192.168.x.x, 10.x.x.x, or 172.16.x.x?
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techsupport
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You probably have some sort of Arris cookie-cutter bullshit gateway from Comcast. I guarantee it says "Arris" somewhere on it.
Call Comcast, tell them you need your gateway to be setup for bridge mode. Once you're in bridge mode your gateway will act as a general modem which will allow your router to do all the work.
Do you have voice and internet or just internet? If the latter, just buy yourself a Motorola 6121/6141/6181 depending on your current speed. Most people don't need more than a 6141, 6121 is really cheap off ebay.
Once you have a Moto your modem portal will be: http://192.168.100.1/
Default gateway will *probably* be: http://192.168.1.1/
But you can Run > CMD > ipconfig /all > it will tell you your default gateway.
Otherwise if you have voice, make them set it to bridge mode. Job done.
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techsupport
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> I have no idea what kind of modem it is.
Does it provide Wi-Fi? Does it have multiple Ethernet ports? If either of these are true, then it has a built-in router.
> As far as the second part goes, how do I go about doing that?
Some routers have an Access Point (AP) mode setting that you can just turn on. I think your TP-Link lacks this setting. The other way to do it is to disable the DHCP server, set its LAN IP address to an unused address in the ISP router's subnet but outside of the DHCP server range of addresses. Finally, connect one of the TP-Link's LAN ports to the ISP modem/router.
But don't do that without first confirming that the ISP modem has a router. After all, your original problem is port forwarding. You'll still need to set up port forwarding on the ISP router.
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techsupport
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I've figured out that it's a Calix GigaHub 812G-1. I was able to log in to the setting for it and put the PS4's IP into the DMZ and it didn't work. This thing has 4 ethernet ports on the back. Ethernet 1 plugs into my tp-link router. Ethernet 4 plugs into my cable box in the living room. I'm almost positive when they installed this a couple weeks ago that they said Ethernet ports 2 and 3 are inactive.
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techsupport
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If the PS4 is connected to the TP-Link then it's sitting behind a double NAT setup. Since you seem to have access to the port forwarding settings on the Calix, I would go ahead and convert the TP-Link to an AP, as per my instructions.
Once you make the AP conversion, you'll have to force all devices connected to the TP-Link to acquire new IP addresses. Rebooting them will work as well as disconnecting and reconnecting them from the network. The devices should obtain IP addresses in the subnet provided by the Calix. Proceed to set up port forwarding. Or enable upnp on the Calix if you like.
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techsupport
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1. Log into the Calix.
2. Find its LAN IP address and subnet mask. It will probably be something like 192.168.1.1 and 255.255.255.0.
3. Look at the DHCP server settings and find the range of IP addresses. It might be, for example, 192.168.1.2 through 192.168.1.100. Pick an address outside of this range. Don't use the Calix's IP address, either. Use something like 192.168.1.200. This is the address that you will later configure on the TP-Link in step 6.
If the ending address on the DHCP range goes all the way to 192.168.1.254, then you will have to change this in order to free up an address. You can change it to 192.168.1.250. Then you can use 192.168.1.251 on the TP-Link. If you change this, then make sure to save/apply it.
4. Log into the TP-Link.
5. Go to *Advanced > Network > DHCP Server* and uncheck *Enable DHCP Server*. Click *Save*.
6. Go to *Advanced > Network > LAN*. Change the IP address to the address you picked in step 3. Click *Save*. Your connection to the TP-Link will stop working at this point. That's ok. You're done changing settings.
7. Move the Ethernet cable from the TP-Link's Internet/WAN port to one of its LAN ports.
8. Force devices to obtain new IP addresses. Make note of the new IP address on the PS4.
9. Set up port forwarding to the PS4's IP address. Or enable UPnP.
10. Check NAT type on PS4.
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techsupport
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That's a Calix Gigacenter 844e my dude. It's a router itself. This is your problem, your ISP leased you a router and you've connected your router to it. Unhook your router and plug straight to it or unhook the Eth cable from the Eth-WAN port on the 844 and plug it into your router. Should solve your problem.
The label with the device information is underneath the stand btw. It should slide back, then down to remove it.
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techsupport
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Yeah, your cpu is getting so hot it's throttling its self to stop it from causing damage.
Generally in laptops this is because debris has built up in the heatsink.
You can blast it with compressed air, although blasting a fan with compressed air can make it spin faster than it should, but it's better to open up the laptop so you can properly clean it out.
Cpu should be at 85c max under full load, and never above 90c.
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techsupport
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Semi modular, so it has the main power cables mounted permanently. But you lost the box/bag that came with the PSU? Even the extra cables?...
Well the cable you linked says it's for CXM, but it's the incorrect 8 pin cable. That's the CPU version, so it won't fit. You'll need the PCI-E/pcie/6+2 cable.
https://www.corsair.com/eu/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-3-Sleeved-Black-PCI-E-Cable/p/CP-8920111
[edit] Also make sure that any cable you order says it's compatible with CXM. Even all of Corsair's own models don't have the same pinout, so incorrect cable could fry your parts...
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techsupport
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Yes it dries out, or sets as it loses it loses moisture content, but that doesn't make it any less efficient as a thermal bridge.
Thermal paste's job is to provide an interface between the heat source and the heatsink that is free of any microscopic air pockets. The paste doesn't need to be 'wet' in order to do that, it's initially moist to make application easier, that's all.
How 'dry' is the copper core of your waterblock/heatsink? Does that need moisture content to be effective too?
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techsupport
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[A quote from somebody with a similar level of experience to myself:](https://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/does-thermal-paste-expire.211716/#post-3269043)
>There is a common misconception among enthusiasts who are not formally trained in electronics that because the "exposed" edges of TIM turns hard or becomes "crusty" that the product between the mating surfaces has somehow become ineffective. THAT IS NOT TRUE! Remember, the most efficient transfer of heat occurs with direct metal-to-metal contact of the mating surfaces.
The purpose of the TIM is ONLY to fill the microscopic pits and valleys in the mating surfaces to displace any insulating air that may have been trapped within. Years later, the TIM is still there and if the bond is unbroken, air cannot get in and occupy the same space. Therefore, the TIM does NOT need to be replaced just because years have passed - even if it dries out!
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techsupport
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So, now you are saying that you looked over the shoulder of people who were hired to develop a securities trading platform.
You did not in fact "Develop" a securities trading platform. You were not even heavily contributing to such a system. The scary part is not that you inflated your position. It is that you have such a lack of understanding of what it takes to develop such a system that you spent 2 seconds thinking that the lie would work.
Over a year into a CS degree .... ?
Get your money back, they are doing a horrible job of educating you.
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techsupport
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Thank you, and sorry for the time it took me to respond. Let me explain a little. I already had a raid0 on that set of disks, but I had to clear the CMOS of the bios due to some problems that were preventing my pc to boot. After I was done, the system wasn't recognizing the RAID, but I didn't reinstall windows or anything.
As my windows installation didn't change (and the raid was working in this current installation before the CMOS clear), I'm not sure formatting in RAID mode is going to solve anything?
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techsupport
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I'm sorry I'm so insistent, but I really want to understand this. The raid I had before the CMOS clear, was being recognized by my current windows installation, so, why was my windows booting with a raid before the CMOS clear, but not after? Why reinstalling windows would fix this? Wasn't my current windows recognizing the old raid?
Anyhow I'll try first the registry method, and if non of this works, I'll have to reinstall windows with the raid mode on the motherboard to see if this works...
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techsupport
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Very cool website! I just finished it and here are the results!
https://gyazo.com/37a418c905b76ba8ed2b11fc15cdc771?token=569aede693434fcccb2f6813c3518ea7
Definitely looks like I'm gonna need a new drive soon in fact, this is how bad it is:
https://gyazo.com/f9717d7d0dd8c81b74b883f660a28471
Do you think I'd get by with a 250 gig SSD as an addon or should I get a 1 tb HD and transfer everything to that? Maybe I'll get a larger one like 500gigs SSD.
Computer is gonna be 7 years old this november, pretty happy with the investment this far.
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techsupport
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Gtx 660, I got a 650ti is my secondary PC. Great card.
Yeah SSD will be fine in that PC. Should make a massive difference with load times.
I don't know what the deal is with your drive performing so badly. Does your pc take a long time to boot? Either way just to be safe make sure anything on that drive that you wouldn't want to lose is backed up... and do it yesterday. It's possible the drive is about to become defective.
If you can a 256gb SSD paired with a 1tb HDD is good. 256gb is fine for windows and all your programs and one of two more commonly used games. Any more than that though then you want to start looking into more space. If you don't use your PC to store large files you might not even need the 1tb drive.
But 100% get an SSD either way.
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techsupport
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nah I wasn't talking about a conflict, I meant the bios option that disables the onboard GPU. In any case, if you had no signal with the GPU either then it's not that.
Next thing to check for no signal would normally be ram, I'd ask you to use each ram stick, solo, on each of your slots and see if you can boot, tedious but works most of the time. However, I'd like you to try another monitor if possible, or another device on this monitor. Make sure the monitor works.
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techsupport
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I can't see it in the geforce experience window, no. I also have minecraft which is in the geforce experience window, so I'll try that real quick.
Just checked, Java (Minecraft) seems to be using the GPU, a bit laggy in the beginning but works fine after a few seconds on fancy (high) graphics. I tried running Overwatch through the geforce experience but that opens and then closes right away, and League of Legends gives me an unknown DirectX error when I try to go into a game.
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techsupport
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I collect vintage computers, and will also look around on the HDD. If I find anything that looks personal, I will delete it, of course, but I'll never wipe the drive. (I try to preserve them as they were. Overwriting the HDD snd installing a new OS is kind of detrimental to the value, in my opinion)
Smut is of course also removed... after a backup copy is made to a separate HDD...
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techsupport
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There should be something in the contract about the data on the machines. There are three things you can do: 1) Delete the data with a tool. 2) Keep the drive 3) Shred the drive.
1) takes a while. The usual method with several overwrites (which isn't necessary anymore these days) take several hours.
2) You'll accumulate a lot of drives in your cupboard.
3) Most secure method.
We had just yesterday 95 desktop PCs and 30 netbooks removed from our office: they will all be shredded...
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techsupport
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Restore to factory settings typically would just reinstall the OS.
If you want to ensure that no one can access your files, you need to overwrite every sector of the drive. There are various software packages that will do this, example blancco. Or you can use a magnetic degauser. If you dont do this step, even if you reinstall windows, you will have data remnance on the drive that with the proper know-how and tools can be retrieved.
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techsupport
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a single pass will remove the recovery availability to 99% of the world, and the methods used to recover past that are looking at missed tracks, looking at individual bits on the drive, and trying to guess their previous state via damage and such to the platters, and a few other *very* time consuming, and *extremely* expensive methods. The single pass zero will ensure that joe schmoe with recuva or Rstudio won't be able to recover anything from the drive. That is who you want to prevent recovery from. If the governments of the world are after you, you have other problems, because they probably have a copy of the drive already.
If you really wanted to be sure, a 2 pass zero write will probably hit all the missed tracks.
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techsupport
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Where I work we used to wipe the drives oureslves and then let the leasing company take the computers back. Certain areas where I worked (law enforcement) drives were physically removed from the leased computers and physically shredded.
However know, for all but the most sensitive data, they just do crypto shreds. SO all drives are fully encrypted, and when the computer is off lease, the key is destroyed. The problem with software wiping drives is the time it takes is immense, a 1tb drive can take 24+ hours easily. Crypto shred is instant.
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techsupport
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If it helps any, your information was probably already out there. When [equifax was hacked](https://money.cnn.com/2017/09/07/pf/victim-equifax-hack-how-to-find-out/index.html) not too long ago pretty much all of American people with credit history of any kind's personal information including SS# was made available to whomever really wants it. SSN was never a good method of securing information. The federal government has done little to resolve this, so the best you can do is lock your credit reports which is an inconvenience and also a financial impact when you need to unlock them to secure new credit (buying a cell phone service, opening a store credit card for taking advantage of a 0% offer, new car, new home, etc).
Search equifax hack and what to do to lock down your credit, the news article I linked above had a few pointers.
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techsupport
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If you want Windows 10, just ignore the Win7 COA sticker and reinstall with the same edition that you upgraded to (whether it is Home or Pro). Windows will automatically activate it for you using a digital license linked to your hardware.
If you instead want Windows 7, reinstall the same edition with the 25-character product key in your COA sticker that will look like this: `8F24T-PM7HQ-F24G4-HV9GF-CCQB6`
*Edit: Clarification. Also, updated the key to look more realistic. There is no concern for piracy though, as the key was generated in a truly random manner, and it was revealed via ShowKeyPlus to be an invalid key.*
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techsupport
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A wifi bridge won't help you and could actually make things worse.
The problem isn't your coverage (since you state that when others aren't using the wifi, it performs well). A wifi bridge is just a bandaid to make make a signal go further.
Basically, the problem is that wifi can only talk to a single device in a single direction at any give time. When one of your housemates is watching netflix, your router spends a lot of time talking to netflix-housemate and not as much time talking to you. If you introduce a wifi bridge, now the same problem of having to take turns talking to the wifi bridge and your housemate still exists, but if that wifi bridge is on the same wifi channel, it will actually decrease speeds even more, since the wifi bridge and the router will have to take turns talking from the router, to the bridge, to you.
So!
What could actually help you is to get a second wireless access point installed at the same point as your current router on a different channel (the existing one could be on channel 1, and you could put your new access point on channel 6 or 11, but not any others), or as you said, figure out how to fish ethernet through the walls (this can require special tools, I don't really recommend it unless you're ambitious and unfazed by cutting into drywall and sticking hooks into walls, patching things up etc... or hire someone ese to do it!)
Some higher end all-in-one routers have multiple access points built into them, but you might also figure out how to plug in an access point to your existing router if you really like the one you have now. 5 GHz would also work if you're able to get a signal, but since you said you're in a basement, best to stick to 2.4 GHz probably.
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techsupport
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Well, potentially, you wouldn't have to get anything! but it depends on your router, and it's likely you have a router that doesn't support multiple access points. Even if your router has 2 antennas sticking out of it, one is usually for 2.4 GHz (goes through walls easier) and one is for 5 GHz (only really good if you're in the same room or have thin walls...). And the firmware will need to support multiple access points. You should probably at least check!
As for 1 6 11, look at [this](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qpy93I6HBz8/UZ4resFCJbI/AAAAAAAAB-k/wNZyaZhgGOQ/s1600/2-4GHz5GHz_tmb.png). There are 11 different channels you can use, but channel 2 still interferes with channel 1. There is no reason to use channel 2 ever. or 3 or 4 or 5 or 7 or 8 or 9 or 10. Only channels 1, 6, and 11 are "clean" channels. So you could be on channel 1, and everyone else could be on 6.
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techsupport
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Never responded to this one though “Wait so I won’t have to get anything but just make sure that the multiple antennas are configured to different frequencies! This would be awesome how the heck do you do this and what do you mean about the channels 1, 6, 11 being safe to use and 3 independent. Does this mean that 3 would be the one just for me and others would use channels 1, 6 and 11”
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techsupport
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Are you hacking or attempting to use a hacktool on the game you are trying to play? if BattlEye is flagging or preventing you from playing the game its because its seeing something suspicious. If you are being forthright and not trying to cheat and this continues to prevent you from playing I encourage you to reach out to Ubisoft or whoever and see if they have suggestions. Other than that unfortunately this issue is way to vague to solve over Reddit.
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techsupport
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It's true.
Some people and a manufacturer apparently stated that you can mod the BIOS to use 8th on an otherwise 6/7th board.
Anyway,you shouldn't use the 8700K since:
1. It will have a very high TDP and I am not sure your AC adapter to handle.
2. The heat it outputs will be too much for those tiny heatsinks.
3. That laptop has began to choke with the 7700K from what I can see online.
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techsupport
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>I have my OS installed on an SSD, but also have a 1TB HDD, so I'm a little unsure what to do there.
You reinstall on the SSD after wiping it (with the installation medium), and completely ignore the HDD. If it doesn't have OS data on it, it's irrelevant here.
>Windows 8 came preinstalled and did not ask me to create any installation files - not sure if that's just an antiquated process.
You download new installation files from the inet. Updates and so on. Never use old installation files, always download current ones unless theres a good reason not to.
>It is a laptop made by Gigabyte and has some software on it which controls the bluetooth, fans, webcam etc.
Windows Update takes care of that. If it doesn't, go to GB's website and look around for the drivers. But it almost always works with the automatic driver download.
Media Creation tool: https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10
You download this, it will download the installation iso and give you the option to make a bootable usb. Then boot from the usb and follow the instructions.
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techsupport
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What bloatware would remain? There is no malware on my laptop and I'm not having any issues with Windows. It's just an absolute ton of programs which have been installed over the years and some messy directories which I want to start from fresh with.
I'm downloading the media creation tool now. I'm just worried about screwing something up, which would really mess me around. I'm probably being overly worried though.
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techsupport
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You responded to yourself so I never got notified that you'd responded at all.
Perhaps you've solved this problem by now, but if you haven't you might try this: In Device Manager, under the Properties tab for your Synaptics device, choose "Uninstall", and agree to do it. Restart Windows. Upon restarting Windows will find the device, see it as new hardware, and install the driver(s) for it. Sometimes this is the only fix needed for a malfunctioning device.
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techsupport
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You don't usually, a bottleneck means your system isn't good enough. You can try to do a system cleanup to see if it helps, maybe a malware scan
Edit: that CPU is very poor as far as performance is concerned, and 4gb of RAM is very low too. If you turn visuals down to low or maybe medium and turn your resolution down to 720p you should see okay performance, but that laptop doesn't seem good for gaming based on specs.
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techsupport
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Going to interject, as I did buy "Cat-7". Pretty sure any cables you see on Amazon that claim to be cat-7, and arn't the weird ass new connector, are just labeled as such, and are actually cat-6 or 5/5e. (Mine don't seem much nicer than the 5/5e, and don't seem as fancy as the 6's I have from reputable brands. Also, yes, they are likely chinesium. It was a year or 2 ago, and I have 150/5, so still well below limits of even 5e.
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techsupport
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Couple notes:
• You can get shielded Cat6, but it isn't required by Spec and most of it isn't.
• Cat7 isn't really a thing yet. It is, but it's effectively not. It's not really in-use anywhere, and it's more of a spec hypothetically than a real product. Most of it you see is just a marketing gimmick.
• Cat5 vanilla will do gigabit over shorter distances
• Cat5e is rated for gigabit over 100 meters
• Cat6 vanilla is rated for 10gig up to 55 meters unshielded
• Cat6A is rated for 10gig up to 100 meters unshielded
Cat5e is absolutely fine for home gear right now if we're talking just using a long patch cable. If you're going to actually run a real in-wall drop onto a wall-plated keystone, go ahead and do Cat6A since the price difference isn't severe and you'll be set for eventual 10G in a few years.
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techsupport
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If by gaming, I assume applications heavily affected by latency like First-Person-Shooters, you will never be able to play on WiFi unless it is less than a meter from the access point (even then packet loss can still cause a serious detriment). If you are concerned about the cost of a really long cable, you can consider getting a DIY Ethernet kit for $50. You can easily get 300ft of cable included in a kit. Buy some cable wood staples and run them along the ceiling and out of the way.
My router is also 30ft-40ft from my office (1970s design) in my apartment and I would never stand a chance for being able to game on the wifi due how congested the airwaves are.
If you want more information on a kit a and how to put a cable together, I'd be happy to guide you through it.
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techsupport
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If your dongle can do 802.11n, go for a 2.5 Ghz channel. Choose a channel with least overlap. 802.11n is good for up to 150Mbs usually. Then disable the 5Ghz on your router, or keep it enabled for other devices. Some routers have a DMZ setting. Disable it. Caveat. Disabling DMZ comes with risk. Google the risk and decide if it's worth it. Also. Read up on QoS settings if you have that option in your router.
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techsupport
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Distance isn’t going to make his dl speed a 5th of the upload speed and depending upon the construction of the walls, 50ft on 5ghz should not be much of an issue. I’m guessing but I kind of doubt he’s literally 50ft away anyway, due to the typical layout of an apartment. It’s possible. 50ft by itself isn’t an issue, in the real world environment with walls and such, yes 50 is getting to the limit, but it isn’t surpassing it. (Assuming average conditions) it’s common to be able to easily get 75-100’ft of stable signal on 5ghz. I’m currently approx 45ft from my WiFi and doing 35-38ms ping with good speeds.
If it’s truly “solely” a distance issue he should be able to replicate the same behavior on another computer or his phone.
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techsupport
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A shitty equipment wouldn't support the 1gps fiber network we give all our business customer nor if the wifi was shitty would their wireless television receiver working correctly. 5ghz is just too unstable and short ranged to be used reliably. Putting 2.4 and 5 on a same name / password would at least ensure he always get the less unreliable on depending on where he is at, and if every other computer in his house are in wifi and running 80-100mbps except him, his d'ongle might be defective, he's already tested multiple thing, outside a clean windows install to remedy any leftover drivers and be anew, the cheap 14$ amazon d'ongle would be my concern.
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techsupport
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If your 5ghz wifi is only reliable up to 20 feet, then yes, it is very shitty. That’s not a slam against you or your equipment, that is just a fact. Multitudes of other vendors are able to provide stable connections much further than that.
OP already mentioned trying 2.4 and getting similar results, and I totally agree, it is most likely his adapter, which was the entire point, that it is NOT the distance, causing his particular issue.
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techsupport
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DMZ is an alternative to port forwarding. Some DMZs open all ports available for a single IP on a LAN. It "should" enable a more efficient traffic exchange between the device and the network, and is often set up to decrease latency and related slow downs. It's sort of a last ditch effort for gamers. Of course putting a device in the DMZ comes with evident risks when you consider unsecured ports. Monitoring the port traffic may reveal issues that are affecting the network and help decide if the risk is worth the advantage.
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techsupport
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The latch probably still works, but AMD CPUs (and rather old Intel CPUs) with this kind of latching design are known for not holding the CPU in place firmly enough when removing a cooler.
As long as the CPU has no bent pins (probably not if it still inserts just fine), you didn't put uncalled for amounts of pressure on the CPU, and you didn't install it in an incorrect orientation, then booting with it !if even possible), you should be good.
This old latching design always sketches me out when yet another CPU rips right out of the heatsink, too. Sometimes removing a cooler in a rotational manner can help, but I feel it could also makes things worse.
Anyway, insert the CPU after unlatching properly ( the plastics should shift), then insert the CPU, then latch it again. I don't think you'll have broken this mechanism.
The latching pushes the CPU pins firmly against the socket, so that it can have proper connectivity. Of you started the system without latching the CPU, I'm not sure what results that could have. Best case undetected CPU, worst case perhaps damage (not sure)
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techsupport
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>As long as the CPU has no bent pins (probably not if it still inserts just fine),
Turns out it does. And the pins are pretty microscopic on that cpu, I don't think I can repair them, a credit card can't even fit between the rows of pins.
I think I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy a new one, and hope that's the only thing that is damaged.
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techsupport
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It could be significant if it was throttling power, but more than likely it was just shifting when running the various tests. 67 is a tad higher than you would want ideally, but prime95 is synthetic load and you likely aren't hitting that in gaming. Thermal throttling on the 8350 shouldn't start until reaching 72C. To confirm, you can use AMD Overdrive to check, if you wanted to.
Its also a good sign that the CPU could keep up and the system didn't restart during this test.
How long does it usually take to restart on you when gaming? I ask because I'm a bit suspect of the Power Supply at this point. It could be that the fan on it isn't working quite as it should and takes a hit when it overheats. We have had two in our office do that now - the fan stops working and the systems would just randomly reboot when doing anything intensive for a while because the Power Supply would overheat.
Its also still very possible there's a driver conflict or something as well, since this started happening after a Windows update. Typical culprits would be audio drivers or chipset drivers. Sometimes Windows updates things it shouldn't. If that is the case, typically a stress test like prime95 would run fine because its not stressing out other stuff or testing audio drivers. Big thing on Prime95 in this regard is to make sure the threads aren't dying (ie all cores staying at 100% through testing). Typically I run Prime95 for about an hour to test CPU/Ram stability, but problems will normally show up within the first 10-15 mins if its a clock/stability issue.
I think the Heaven benchmark is still free to use - that would be a pretty good test to run as well to see if you can pinpoint the problem to any particular area or for a certain amount of time.
Otherwise, the next step would be checking through the errors in the logs in the Administrative tools to see there are any critical errors possibly related to drivers coming up.
Oh and if your BIOS isn't up to date, I would get it updated to the latest version. I had a personal computer at home flip out on Windows 1803 until I updated the BIOS to the latest version.
That gives you a few areas to look at, let me know if you have any questions.
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techsupport
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Ok, so i have stripped and cleaned all case fans and dust traps. There was a fair amount of buildup.
I have now managed to get to 15 mins on Furmark with no crashes. Max temp was 57 degrees @ 65% fan stable throughout. I was seeing minor variances in the clock speed - 999 - 1050mhz.
PSU fan is spinning up when placed under load and PSU doesn't feel hot to the touch.
I'm hoping the clean up has sorted my issues (maybe some un monitored part of my mobo was overheating?), but i won't be certain until i play a game for 1+ hours, which i won't be able to do tonight. I'll try tomorrow and see if i get another crash and confirm back then.
EDIT: Managed about an hour on total war. No crashes. I'm hoping this is sorted and was an overheating issue. Either way, I owe you for guiding me through this. I appreciate all the help and advice.
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