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was likely tinned copper |
copper for such short wires is basically negligible and they need to solder it to a pcb |
Shoot. Maybe the PP45s I had were counterfeit and actually aluminum contacts instead of silver plated? |
I would expect the counterfeits to be tinned copper |
sand off the coating |
I'll bust em open when i get home |
you can also cut the crimp and see if there's air gaps |
You might have also been using CCA wire |
(copper clad aluminum) |
Do a flame test on some of the melted wire |
soooo much wire on amazon is CCA now.. |
possible. I'll snip it when i can |
I stick to buying it locally just because the prices are same/cheaper local then amazon/etc. |
all the 'cheap' wire on amazon is CCA |
(at least, amazon.ca) |
the stepdown looks like it was tinned copper- lemme check the main wire |
you must have been shopping on amazon.cca |
-_-; |
i don't think it's CCA since... it's not from amazon, it probably pre-dates amazon |
it's hard to tell if you cut tinned copper wire that theres copper inside because it's shiny and the silver dominates |
I'mma double check the silicone 10awg i just got... it looks like tinned copper |
I read CCA and the first thing that came into my head was Consumer Credit Agreement üòÇ |
ah i always saw a bit of a pennylike sheen to the ends |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL5VUYe_uX8 |
Ah I have the cutout with me... I might take a minute and snip it |
✂️ |
it LOOKs like bare copper even when abraded |
and... too much corrosion for my liking |
send a pic |
btw corrosion accelerates with an overheated cable |
^^ |
yeah and i'm sure accelerated corrosion also decreases conductivity of the wire and increases resistance, increasing heat, increasing the corrosion again hah |
looks copper to my eye |
Looks like you might have some more rewiring to do in the future |
Oh well, good news is you caught it before it caught fire |
hopefully not too much. That jumper was the only spot i used that particular type/batch of wiring |
my electrical supplier left all the connections loose |
-_-; |
~~I've asked for £1000 credit~~ |
Why does the earthing terminal have 4 lugs and the all important to not burn your house down power terminal only have 2? |
so my best guesses- possible earlier damage to the wire in form of corrosion, then maybe a poor crimp or connection between contacts, causing heat and degradation of the insulation AND more corrosion which... just death spiraled |
@Melez I feel also like crimping wire thats showing any corrosion is a huge mistake |
and it may have been tarnished before you crimped it |
needs to be SUPER shiny, and then the crimp should be strong enough to deform the wire into pretty much a solid mass of copper that excludes oxygen and moisture |
(the proper powerpole crimpers are very important) |
i didn't see any when i crimped it, but that's not to say bare copper wire was gonna be fine |
do you have proper rachet crimpers for powerpole? |
I do not üò¶ |
you know copper isn't that bad either, it's still quite corrosion resistant |
Yea you should REALLY get those, it takes a suprising amount of crimp force on bigger connectors |
yeah that's what we make 200+ year roofs outta |
and if you over crimp those andersons they don't fit into the housing anymore |
especially the 45A contacts |
yeah I may just go XT60/90 from now on |
Good plan. the pliers are like $40 IIRC for the basic ones |
yea |
not worth it |
I like anderson still for the 12v low power stuff, and charging connector (nice low pullout force) |
got a bag of amass xt90s |
yeah i may keep the PP 45s on my 12v stuff |
there's new amass crimp connectors lol |
my 12v systems don't draw enough amps for me to really worry about overheating |
its nice being able to build 3/4/5 pin connectors as needed for stuff too |
also true |
ganging em up |
(though I ended up using other connectors, mainly waterproof automotive style, for my signal lights and stuff) |
but I had to buy like 5 bags of em to get all the different pin counts I needed! |
i'll probably do that when i finally get around to doing turnsignals |
like signal switch-left wire, right wire, then signals, then have the signals common neutral through a relay back to - |
I may have to post my XT90s when i solder them up. don't want more shitty connections failing on me lol |
i did a test run on em and tinned up the cradle lug, then the wire, then tried to get the wire seated clean in the lugs |
Rear needs 5 wires. Ground, Daytime running light, Left, Right, Brake. |
I like that new vesc controller that has 5x programmable outputs for lights |
and configurable 6 - 24v total 15A |
makes sense- I have my rear as an always on directly off my step down |
I use led strips that actually need most of those wires lol. |
I actually have 1 extra wire: strobe |
its hooked up to my horn.. |
nice |
As well as hazard light pattern enables when both left and right turn are enabled. |
yeah i figured if i ran the left and right turns through the same relay to neutral they would sync up |
that's what we need in more ebike controllers |
Maybe not that much, but a brake light output that was 12V at at least 1A would be nice. |
I bet that IO board is very cheap to make |
lol connectors go brrrr$$$$ |
and it's IP66 |
what |
this is how |
ahh. |
the enclosure for it all is, yea |
I was thinking 'that pcb.. is not.. IP anything' |
yep and it's inside the controller case |
'that is like, IP00. maybe a little higher if its conformal coated...' |
found a better pic |
Hot |
has IMU built in so you can do IMU-based wheelie mode |
lol. |
if I ever get a surron or something I'm getting one of these |
yo whaaaat nice |
kind of a joke but yes it's been done |
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