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yes, the piercing is also what causes me problems
but you've read: apparently we just have to sharpen our drill bits ^^
... heh, with proper technique, I generally drill about 1/8" deep a second.
I remember as a kid growing up with those dulled as hell drill bits that couldn't cut metal if their lives depended on it..
literally what would take 1~10 minutes with a dull as nail drill bit, slowly abrading through the steel with no pressure, a sharp drill bit, with proper pressure and technique can make the same hole in literally seconds, pulling up chunks of not *rods* of steel coming up the drill flutes
Yes, iv literally had continious rods of metal come out of my drill bits flutes
they are not round of course, more flat and jaggid, but they do come out as long continious pieces, sometimes several inches long before snapping
Using proper pressure and RPM, your drill bit can drill inches of steel before going dull too.
if not feet...
RPM is important too.
(RPM should not be exceeded, less RPM is fine, it just won't drill as fast as it could)
The milfukee Shockwave bits are really nice. 50 bucks for the basic kit thou.
@EPHIIOS lol i bent my 3/8 and twisted it at the base
OK?
Just saying, they are good bits, worth the price
Rn a 29 peice set is $40 i think at homelessdepo
I went riding and suddenly I heard air hissing out and my tire instantly got deflated. The valve broke again. Thankfully I wasn't too far from my house. I wonder if the Tannus Armour contributes to the valve breaking.
Hopefully these tubes help prevent this
yeah those tubes help alot
that and they dont wiggle thanks to ring, also helps with inflating
I had this happen once with the Armour. I suspect it was from running the tire pressure too low (though it was still within Tannus' recommendations) combined with high torque from the motor resulting in slippage. I've only got my one instance to base that guess on though.
@NCC1941 Incidently, Im wondering if we should be uh, cleaning our tubes?
so they get better traction to the tire and don't slip?
Dunno what it was exactly but I had a hell of a time with thorn proof tubes.. even after the bike shop installed/inflated em. I wonder if it was cause they where extra slippery? (or extra grabby?)
I could be wrong (again, just guessing based on the aftermath of one instance), but I *think* what happened to me was tire/rim slippage that pulled the tube along, where the tire was able to slip due to low pressure.
on my belt sander, I had to actually clean all the talc off inner tubes to use it as a wheel rubber coating, if I didn't, the rubber would slip and get badly blistered over a short period of time.
Interesting.
Yea, But Im wondering if maybe the reason the tire slips at all, is the tube wasn't holding it?
Im not sure if a tube slipping, or a tube grabbing is better honestly.
it would be interesting to test, talc the hell outta one tube/tire, and clean the hell outta another.
I will say, I saw no abrasion or anything on the tube in question. Just the valve stem ripped clean off and left on the road somewhere. lol
Sure, but how far can the tube slip before rip?
and what would fail first, the tube from abrasion.. or the valve stem that can survive about 1 degree of rotation
Fair
Like, I wonder if tires naturally 'slip' and talc on the tube help lets the tube stay where its supposed to be, or if tubes are actually part of what help keep your tire from slipping, since they press against the rim too
For this scenario, I feel like tube slip might be better? That way tire slippage is less likely to take the tube with it?
prob more contact area between your tube and rim, then your tire bead and rim
I was thinking the tube helps by adding pressure to the tire/rim interface as well. Not sure how true or impactful that aspect is, though.
Or at least, enough that it might change emergency stop/high force acceleration from slipping to not-slipping.
Sure. but tubes are inflated to a PSI right?
meaning, each square inch of surface prob has about the same pressure per square inch.
The tube has more contact with the rim/tire then the tire has with the rim
at least, on MTB
road bikes its prob about equal lol
Hmm
And they sure do seem to get talc all over the outside of tubes (inside is filled with the stuff..)
Maybe it helps reduce pinch flats from improper install, but what about our "Why are you doing emergency stops at 60kph all the time and then accelerating with 5 humans worth of torque afterwards?" usage cases. ("Well, Because its fun...")
lol
Random idea: Put some witness marks from your tire to rim, see if the tire ever rotates.
"Wait why is there acceleration wear on the *front* tube?"
"Because I can."
If the tire rotates in natural operation, you know 'slip' is good.
If the tire does not rotate... except shortly before your valve stem rips off, you know thats a bad thing.
If the tire never rotates, WTF? is the tube spinning without the tire moving due to some kinda weird deformation ripple walking effect thing?
(Who knows!)
(by witness marks I mean like with a sharpie)
Oh, that part's easy. Line up the tire branding with the valve hole. Cyclists do that anyway so they never have to go looking for the valve stem when inflating.
Which bridges a gap in my thought process. I do that, and have never noticed tire slippage by that measure.
lol.
Yea, I was thinking a sharpie line would let you detect even a fraction of a degree
Gotta love trying to think while sick and exhausted. lol
True
But I've ridden for hundreds and sometimes thousands of miles between needing to pull a tire, and I've never detected movement. You'd think it'd be cumulative.
Yea
Making me wonder if some tires fail in e-bike usage from being too slippery (too much talc on the outside?)
(plus that talc would prob get on your rim and between the tire and rim.. ouch)
Id wager if any part of the tire started to slip, it might even 'walk' the slip around the tire
Yeah, adding slippage to the tire/rim interface sounds like a bad time no matter how you slice it.
I know some people use soapy water to make tire installation easier, but apparently that dries sticky, so no harm there.
like successive rotations with the pressure/forces might move the slip a little bit further/unseating and reseating your bead slightly
Yea, soapy water would also clean all the talc off.
(or turn the talc sticky)
True
Based on random conjecture, we're gonna say try and clean your rim/tire (inside and bead) of any talc/etc. Couldn't hurt anyway.
@NCC1941 Yaknow I bet if talc was a good thing, we'd be hearing about using that to install tires instead of soapy water, since no need for it to dry. (though maybe messier)
I wager the deposits on the tubes are just cause talc gets everywhere, or it helps the machine that folds the tube for shipping not rip em...
Oh.... Joy, just realized, its gonna be chinese 'industrial grade' talc...
Prob 25% asbestos üòõ
I mean if actual baby powder grade talc was found to have asbestos... Im pretty sure the talc in/on your inner tubes does...
Gonna have to remember that next time I take apart inner tubes for rubber.... wash em with gloves or something -_-;
You know what would've helped our endeavor for knowledge?
Google. lol
Apparently it's added to tubes to keep them from sticking to themselves, so they don't bunch up.
And I'm not finding any strong recommendations *against* talc'ing tube exteriors - apparently it makes installing the tube easier? But it's by no means considered necessary, and apparently there was an old myth about it being necessary that came from the use of talc in old-timey car tires to keep the tire and tube from vulcanizing together.
Yea, I know they add it to the inside to prevent it bunching up
its prob good that it doesn't stick to itself on the inside.
but, its prob got asbestos, and on the outside, it might not be great, when you start doing extreme braking/acceleration like e-bikers often do
Yeah. I just can't find any evidence or complaints about its use on the outside, despite there apparently being groups on both sides of the 'issue'.
Interesting.
Not that I don't think we could spot something interesting like this, but considering how long performance ebikes have been around at this point (and often far dumber builds than ours), I would have expected to find *something* on the topic already.
Like, from the folks renting track time for ebike races, and shit like that
Yea... *shrugs* something is shearing these valve stems though.
Wouldn't be the first wide spread problem iv uncovered...
Cough 7950 ATI video cards bluescreening every 30 minutes, on (I forget what) chipset motherboards for 2 YEARS after release
I found 500 page forum threads about the issue...
reported it to ATI
"We have had no credable reports about this issue"
... oh.. really.
I inform said 500 page forum threads (There was multiple, for several different games.. basically ANY DX11 game, DX9 games ran just fine)
Imagine that, finally fixed a month later...