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Human: Hi All, I recently bought a boat with a 150 merc fourstroke and smart craft gauges. Everything works fine except the fuel gauge, it always wants to read 100% full. I have checked the sender and went so far as to buy a new one but the ohm readings are the same as the old one so I figure it’s ok. I checked the wiring and replaced a short section so have some confidence in the wiring. I reset the gauges and made sure the tank size was correct but still ‘creeps’ up to full every time. The tank is about 1/8th full. the dealer told me just to take some spare fuel with me!! How do I get this fuel gauge working ? thanks Assistant:	Sounds to me like your current sender follows the 'European standard'...the few smartcraft installations I've upgraded have all used the 'American standard' piece parts....	Sounds to me like your current sender follows the 'European standard'...the few smartcraft installations I've upgraded have all used the 'American standard' piece parts....	OK sorry about the spelling and I also can`t type. My system is the same as your picture Bob except I have twin hydrolic helms and pumps on both engines with a lot more stuff to cause me grief. This conversion ram that you refer to I am not familure with. And the two rams, do you just leave the legs connected with the white connector bar and attach twin rams. When I bought the boat first trip I knew I had to simpleify this systom or I would eventualy have problems.
Human: Hi All, I recently bought a boat with a 150 merc fourstroke and smart craft gauges. Everything works fine except the fuel gauge, it always wants to read 100% full. I have checked the sender and went so far as to buy a new one but the ohm readings are the same as the old one so I figure it’s ok. I checked the wiring and replaced a short section so have some confidence in the wiring. I reset the gauges and made sure the tank size was correct but still ‘creeps’ up to full every time. The tank is about 1/8th full. the dealer told me just to take some spare fuel with me!! How do I get this fuel gauge working ? thanks Assistant:	Ok thanks guys, problem solved. It’s a mystery why you would repower but not make sure that the fuel sender is correct and the fuel gauge works !!! But that’s what happened they used the wrong fuel sender and the ohm measurements were back the front. A new wema unit and it’s ok. Also disappointing that the mercury dealer I went to couldn’t work this out...	Ok thanks guys, problem solved. It’s a mystery why you would repower but not make sure that the fuel sender is correct and the fuel gauge works !!! But that’s what happened they used the wrong fuel sender and the ohm measurements were back the front. A new wema unit and it’s ok. Also disappointing that the mercury dealer I went to couldn’t work this out...	Question is how do I ground tank and filler cap? Click to expand... Ayuh,.... The filler hose should have a wire In it,... If not, just run 1 beside it.... The filler cap is bonded to the tank,... The tank is bonded to the motor's block... It's bonded, independently from the Grounds.....
Human: Hi Folks, Just bought a little 12 ft. fiberglass boat (490 lbs) & need a battery for my Minn Kota 30lb trolling motor. The boat came with a riding lawnmower battery he used to power the trolling motor. At my age I don't want a heavy battery & would like to keep the price under $100. Has anyone ever used a mower battery to power a trolling motor & any suggestions on a battery I should buy? Thanks, Bernie Assistant:	Ideally, you want the battery capacity (size) to meet your needs. Those units are AMP*HOURS. if you need 'smaller' cases, you can physically split your source into two or more units but you will have extra cost doing that. So you need to figure out how you will use the motor and go from there. I'd suggest a AGM technology with Deep Cycle construction.....I believe that combination will give you longest service life.	Ideally, you want the battery capacity (size) to meet your needs. Those units are AMP*HOURS. if you need 'smaller' cases, you can physically split your source into two or more units but you will have extra cost doing that. So you need to figure out how you will use the motor and go from there. I'd suggest a AGM technology with Deep Cycle construction.....I believe that combination will give you longest service life.	DangarStu said: The impeller blades are always curved, that is an essential part of their operation. So when you put the house up the pipe that connects to the water pump, did water come out the tell tale then? Does the impeller feel like it is spinning on the shaft or locked solidly (as it should be)? Have you tried it in a tub of water? Sometimes ear muffs can be slightly out of position and not feel enough water in. Stuart Click to expand... Yeah, I put the hose up to the tell tale and had water coming through that pipe to the water pump. Today I took the plate off on the back of the engine and cleaned the thermostat and that housing but that didnt seem to be the issue. I did run it in a tub of water today instead of ear muffs to see if that could have been it. Maybe it is the impeller or perhaps I didn't connect that tube into the water pump housing putting it back together. I'll take it apart again and see if I can get it. Today it was just hot steam coming out of the tell tale after a few minutes of running... frustrating. Plus I definitely screwed up the F/N/R shifting settings on the engine.
Human: Hi Folks, Just bought a little 12 ft. fiberglass boat (490 lbs) & need a battery for my Minn Kota 30lb trolling motor. The boat came with a riding lawnmower battery he used to power the trolling motor. At my age I don't want a heavy battery & would like to keep the price under $100. Has anyone ever used a mower battery to power a trolling motor & any suggestions on a battery I should buy? Thanks, Bernie Assistant:	makomark said: Ideally, you want the battery capacity (size) to meet your needs. Those units are AMP*HOURS. if you need 'smaller' cases, you can physically split your source into two or more units but you will have extra cost doing that. So you need to figure out how you will use the motor and go from there. I'd suggest a AGM technology with Deep Cycle construction.....I believe that combination will give you longest service life. Click to expand... Thanks, I'll try that. Appreciate your reply	makomark said: Ideally, you want the battery capacity (size) to meet your needs. Those units are AMP*HOURS. if you need 'smaller' cases, you can physically split your source into two or more units but you will have extra cost doing that. So you need to figure out how you will use the motor and go from there. I'd suggest a AGM technology with Deep Cycle construction.....I believe that combination will give you longest service life. Click to expand... Thanks, I'll try that. Appreciate your reply	Your throttle friction is set too low. That's the "black piece in the middle". Tighten that bolt a little bit at a time....until the throttle stays put.
Human: Motor is a Mercury 75HP project that I'm bringing back to life after it sat for years. The other day on the trailer (motor not running) I was trimming it down to work on something with the cowl off and a surprising amount of white smoke came out of the motor on the starboard side. In the general area of the circuit panel, maybe slightly below it. I stopped and let everything clear out, looked for anything melted. Trimmed all the way up....no smoke. Started trimming back down, after 2 seconds, more smoke again. Definitely from under the cowl, not from the trim motor. Couldn't pinpoint it. The only thing I found amiss was a missing ground...that braided metal strap that connects the bottom of the exhaust cover to the cowl bracket. There's two of them, left and right of the spark plugs. The left one was gone. I replaced it with one from another motor, then tried the tilt/trim again. No smoke. Could that have been the reason that SOMETHING was getting hot when I was trimming? I don't know if it's always smoked while trimming down, I just happened to notice that day because I had the cover off. Now I'm paranoid about my grounds and whether all of them are in place. Assistant:	If something got so hot it burned away the insulation, you better make a thorough inspection of the entire wiring before venturing out into the big briny sea.	If something got so hot it burned away the insulation, you better make a thorough inspection of the entire wiring before venturing out into the big briny sea.	bperry said: Remove engine cover and check fuse on engine, Mine was supposed to have a 20 amp and PO had put in a 10 amp. It blew and my tilt and trim or starter would work. Replaced with 20 now fine. Click to expand... I dropped it off at the place that installed it this morning. I have a thirty day warranty. I wish I knew earlier. Thanks! Amazingly enuff I forgot to check the oil level....LOL I deserve what I get. Master Chief, I was a Navy cook from 79 - 85. A little time in first division before supply.
Human: Going to try and be short and concise as possible to avoid rambling, as I am feeling really defeated. Tilt motor was working half the time, figured relays were sticking/bad, so now trying to replace relay but only getting 2.5V when when activating switch up or down at pin 30 on both relays. This should be 12V correct? Is something wrong with my wiring? I do understand that I need an inline fuse on the 12V wire going to the switch. I attached the wiring diagram and pins that I used. I know the wiring is really bad/messy right now, I was trying to get it functioning correctly, then clean it up afterwards. I attached some pictures with some labels, but i do understand if it is really hard to see what is going on so just let me know if I am missing any other information that would need to be included. https://imgur.com/a/HSbCLRf Using the same setup below on both relays with different switch/motor wires obviously: positive to motor: 30 positive battery 12V: 87 negative battery: 87a negative battery: 85 from switch: 86 positive battery 12V: to switch red wire I would really appreciate any help. Assistant:	First, it would help if you identify what you are working on; ie engine model/serial number, etc. and when you offer a measurement, stating what points you are making the measurement from helps tremendously... Making the guess that you want the relays to give you the ability to reverse the polarity going to the motor, based on which way the switch is activated, I'd say you diagram in incorrect. switching the leads on 87 and 87A may get you what you want.	First, it would help if you identify what you are working on; ie engine model/serial number, etc. and when you offer a measurement, stating what points you are making the measurement from helps tremendously... Making the guess that you want the relays to give you the ability to reverse the polarity going to the motor, based on which way the switch is activated, I'd say you diagram in incorrect. switching the leads on 87 and 87A may get you what you want.	bondo said: Ayuh,.... How extensive is the damage,..?? Generally speakin', 'round here hull work is done by others, not marinas,... Click to expand... Who does the work there? Where are you located?
Human: Hello, I need to replace the up trim relay(I know they are identical). My question is: Original OMC or aftermarket? I'm assuming OMC, but would the aftermarket relays possibly be better because of newer technology? The ones in replacing are 1995 components, which may have answered my question. And should I have a 2nd set on standby? How often do these fail? Thanks and GOD bless! Assistant:	The factory ones are not expensive.----They are very well made too.	The factory ones are not expensive.----They are very well made too.	Maybe on a small boat. Car fiberglass doesn't have the same job as a boat hull. Pretty isn't necessarily reliable.
Human: Hello, I need to replace the up trim relay(I know they are identical). My question is: Original OMC or aftermarket? I'm assuming OMC, but would the aftermarket relays possibly be better because of newer technology? The ones in replacing are 1995 components, which may have answered my question. And should I have a 2nd set on standby? How often do these fail? Thanks and GOD bless! Assistant:	Thank you!!	Thank you!!	It will need a new water pump impeller !
Human: Hello, I need to replace the up trim relay(I know they are identical). My question is: Original OMC or aftermarket? I'm assuming OMC, but would the aftermarket relays possibly be better because of newer technology? The ones in replacing are 1995 components, which may have answered my question. And should I have a 2nd set on standby? How often do these fail? Thanks and GOD bless! Assistant:	They are less than $20 from factory.-------Not worth shopping for lesser QUALITY on these I would say.	They are less than $20 from factory.-------Not worth shopping for lesser QUALITY on these I would say.	Normal because you ran it for 5-10 minutes the motor does not get warm enough to burn all the fuel mix off. You probably would not have noticed it if you didn't run it to flush it. Otherwise perfectly normal for a two stroke outboard
Human: Hey everybody. I've got a '91 Hunter 27 sailboat that wasn't used much last summer, not at all this past winter, and only twice this summer. Went down there last week to do some maintenance and the battery switch and meter reads no current at all on one of the two batteries. I guess this means the battery is a gonner. What could this possibly be besides the battery and how could I check it? Also, I'd like to have the replacement battery with me the next time I go down, but I have no idea what kind of battery to look for other than a marine battery. I know the size and the dang weight of the ones in the now but other than that I know nothing about them. What kind / amp / voltage? battery should I look for to replace it? Thanks Assistant:	Gas or diesel engine? Bigger battery for diesel. Battery could have something on that discharged it completely. Probably no good, but you could try charging it. For starting a regular battery, for house use (lights, etc.) deep cycle. For starting I always buy the battery with the longest guarantee and highest cranking amps. They last much longer than the cheaper ones. In my diesel pickup the batteries are from 2010. In boats I use 8d, but I have big diesels.	Gas or diesel engine? Bigger battery for diesel. Battery could have something on that discharged it completely. Probably no good, but you could try charging it. For starting a regular battery, for house use (lights, etc.) deep cycle. For starting I always buy the battery with the longest guarantee and highest cranking amps. They last much longer than the cheaper ones. In my diesel pickup the batteries are from 2010. In boats I use 8d, but I have big diesels.	Re: 1988 115 with "stuck rings" That's what I'm trying to avoid. Sometimes when you have an overheating situation, the cylinder contracts and the piston expands causing the rings to be forced into the piston groove with force. Once the motor cools, the rings usually spring back. Sometimes the rings are wedged into the poston groove and if they don't spring back out of the groove, you have a cylinder with little or no compression. Both OMC and Mercury make their own "stuff" that you pour into the cylinder and let it soak overnight and it will ofter loosen up the stuck rings and you're back in business. I was just wondering if Yamaha had a solution that they recommended. I found the Yamaha "stuff" it's something you mix with your gas and run the motor. I don't like that idea, so I got the OMC stuff and seems to be working. Sometimes, it takes a few treatments before the rings loosen up and compression is restored to normal. I've been working on outboards all my life. Now that I'm 50, it's just not as much fun as it used to be tearing one down. I'm learning to work "smarter" in my old age and use chemicals and patience to correct the problem if possible. I remember when I almost enjoyed having a motor screw up just so that I could tear it down, bore it out, re-jet the carb, shave the head.......... Now, just the thought of all of that makes me tired! Thanks for your suggestion. I'll see what I can accomplish without tearing it down.
Human: Hey everybody. I've got a '91 Hunter 27 sailboat that wasn't used much last summer, not at all this past winter, and only twice this summer. Went down there last week to do some maintenance and the battery switch and meter reads no current at all on one of the two batteries. I guess this means the battery is a gonner. What could this possibly be besides the battery and how could I check it? Also, I'd like to have the replacement battery with me the next time I go down, but I have no idea what kind of battery to look for other than a marine battery. I know the size and the dang weight of the ones in the now but other than that I know nothing about them. What kind / amp / voltage? battery should I look for to replace it? Thanks Assistant:	you never said how old the battery was or its use....or if you did any maintenance on it... I would charge it and re test it unless you know its old (over 5 yrs). Lepke covered starting batteries pretty well...for a house battery, you need to size it by your needs, in amp-hours. As a rule, you get what you pay for when it comes to batteries...	you never said how old the battery was or its use....or if you did any maintenance on it... I would charge it and re test it unless you know its old (over 5 yrs). Lepke covered starting batteries pretty well...for a house battery, you need to size it by your needs, in amp-hours. As a rule, you get what you pay for when it comes to batteries...	Now that I think about it, the oil pump defaults to the fully open position. Which is where it is as depicted in your photo. The setting is made with the throttle (and the oil pump) in the closed position. Rotate the oil pump control lever clockwise so that the connection point is on the other side. Then look for a mark on the lever. Should be opposite the tang which holds the spring in place. What manual are you using? I am looking at the Yamaha manual and it is pretty clear.
Human: Hey everybody. I've got a '91 Hunter 27 sailboat that wasn't used much last summer, not at all this past winter, and only twice this summer. Went down there last week to do some maintenance and the battery switch and meter reads no current at all on one of the two batteries. I guess this means the battery is a gonner. What could this possibly be besides the battery and how could I check it? Also, I'd like to have the replacement battery with me the next time I go down, but I have no idea what kind of battery to look for other than a marine battery. I know the size and the dang weight of the ones in the now but other than that I know nothing about them. What kind / amp / voltage? battery should I look for to replace it? Thanks Assistant:	bradleyheathhay said: Hey everybody. I've got a '91 Hunter 27 sailboat that wasn't used much last summer, not at all this past winter, and only twice this summer. Went down there last week to do some maintenance and the battery switch and meter reads no current at all on one of the two batteries. I guess this means the battery is a gonner. What could this possibly be besides the battery and how could I check it? Also, I'd like to have the replacement battery with me the next time I go down, but I have no idea what kind of battery to look for other than a marine battery. I know the size and the dang weight of the ones in the now but other than that I know nothing about them. What kind / amp / voltage? battery should I look for to replace it? Thanks Click to expand... I realize that this thread is cold by now. If the OP comes back, here are my suggestions after having done marine electrical work for many years. Wet cell batteries tend to work best for our Marine needs and requirements. Starting batteries should be just that..... a Start Battery that meets the cold cranking amp demands. Deep Cycle batteries are not built for heavy amp loads such as cranking. (an exception to that would be cranking from a large bank of multiple Deep Cycle batteries) House batteries should be true Deep Cycle batteries. As mentioned, calculate your anticipated daily loads in terms of Amp Hours. Lights, fans, pumps, frig (typically 50% of amp load due to cycling), radio, TV, etc. Size the house bank to offer 200% of that demand. To keep the house bank healthy, do not allow it to be drawn down below 50% of the total Amp Hours that are available. Note that wet cell battery damage occurs when a battery is left in a SOD for any duration. This is due to the plates absorbing the electrolyte's sulfuric acid, rather than keeping it in solution. Keep all batteries charged sooner than later, and you will extend their life expectancy. This may mean using a maintenance or float charger to keep them up to snuff. .	bradleyheathhay said: Hey everybody. I've got a '91 Hunter 27 sailboat that wasn't used much last summer, not at all this past winter, and only twice this summer. Went down there last week to do some maintenance and the battery switch and meter reads no current at all on one of the two batteries. I guess this means the battery is a gonner. What could this possibly be besides the battery and how could I check it? Also, I'd like to have the replacement battery with me the next time I go down, but I have no idea what kind of battery to look for other than a marine battery. I know the size and the dang weight of the ones in the now but other than that I know nothing about them. What kind / amp / voltage? battery should I look for to replace it? Thanks Click to expand... I realize that this thread is cold by now. If the OP comes back, here are my suggestions after having done marine electrical work for many years. Wet cell batteries tend to work best for our Marine needs and requirements. Starting batteries should be just that..... a Start Battery that meets the cold cranking amp demands. Deep Cycle batteries are not built for heavy amp loads such as cranking. (an exception to that would be cranking from a large bank of multiple Deep Cycle batteries) House batteries should be true Deep Cycle batteries. As mentioned, calculate your anticipated daily loads in terms of Amp Hours. Lights, fans, pumps, frig (typically 50% of amp load due to cycling), radio, TV, etc. Size the house bank to offer 200% of that demand. To keep the house bank healthy, do not allow it to be drawn down below 50% of the total Amp Hours that are available. Note that wet cell battery damage occurs when a battery is left in a SOD for any duration. This is due to the plates absorbing the electrolyte's sulfuric acid, rather than keeping it in solution. Keep all batteries charged sooner than later, and you will extend their life expectancy. This may mean using a maintenance or float charger to keep them up to snuff. .	Either the sender arm is operating inconsistently, thereby correctly sending the inconsistent trim position signal, or the sender arm is operating consistently and the signal is operating inconsistently. Sounds like you've addressed the sender arm. What have you done to address the wiring communicating the signal between the trim and gauge?
Human: I have a Tige ski boat with Mercruiser fuel injected black scorpion engine with direct drive. When I turn the key I get a click sound near the starter but the starter does not engage. I have 13 volts to the starter. When I cross the two terminals on the starter with a wrench it engages and starts right up so it appears the starter does work fine. It just does not get the juice or signal to engage. What should I be looking at fixing or replacing? Jeff [email protected] Assistant:	You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid.	You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid.	add a quart of marvel mystery oil and run it for a few hours see if that helps after a few hrs change the oil its been sitting for a while may go away and then again it may not but no biggie if it dont
Human: I have a Tige ski boat with Mercruiser fuel injected black scorpion engine with direct drive. When I turn the key I get a click sound near the starter but the starter does not engage. I have 13 volts to the starter. When I cross the two terminals on the starter with a wrench it engages and starts right up so it appears the starter does work fine. It just does not get the juice or signal to engage. What should I be looking at fixing or replacing? Jeff [email protected] Assistant:	Docksidemarineservices said: You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. Click to expand... Thanks much! I'll give that a try. Jeff	Docksidemarineservices said: You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. Click to expand... Thanks much! I'll give that a try. Jeff	Normal.
Human: I have a Tige ski boat with Mercruiser fuel injected black scorpion engine with direct drive. When I turn the key I get a click sound near the starter but the starter does not engage. I have 13 volts to the starter. When I cross the two terminals on the starter with a wrench it engages and starts right up so it appears the starter does work fine. It just does not get the juice or signal to engage. What should I be looking at fixing or replacing? Jeff [email protected] Assistant:	Docksidemarineservices said: You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. Click to expand... Thanks much! I'll give that a try. Jeff	Docksidemarineservices said: You are hearing a click but it is not your starter.....Find and replace the slave solenoid. Click to expand... Thanks much! I'll give that a try. Jeff	boscoe said: Both white connectors attach to a harness that runs to the gauges. Over temp, low oil quantity caution (remote tank), low oil warning (main tank), trim information, power supply to the trim sender, etc.. Click to expand... hey so I found the oil tank connection, was tied up underneath the block. I forgot to ask what the blue cable with the bullet connection is for, have you seen this?
Human: I was doing some work on my boat, which I realized that the male spade connector that is connected to my boats rocker switchboard as broken off completly. I was wondering if there is anyway to fix this without replacing the entire switchboard any help is appriciated thanks! Assistant:	not one that will survive any time....	not one that will survive any time....	Warranty ?----Why do you say it appeared to be bent before breaking ?
Human: I was doing some work on my boat, which I realized that the male spade connector that is connected to my boats rocker switchboard as broken off completly. I was wondering if there is anyway to fix this without replacing the entire switchboard any help is appriciated thanks! Assistant:	makomark said: not one that will survive any time.... Click to expand... So you are suggesting I should just buy a new switch panel?	makomark said: not one that will survive any time.... Click to expand... So you are suggesting I should just buy a new switch panel?	If your going to pull it to clean it Replace it, Why are you pulling it in the first place? A code come up?
Human: I was doing some work on my boat, which I realized that the male spade connector that is connected to my boats rocker switchboard as broken off completly. I was wondering if there is anyway to fix this without replacing the entire switchboard any help is appriciated thanks! Assistant:	Usually the male terminal is an integrated part of the switch....and they aren't replaceable. Not having seen your 'switch panel' I can't say if the switch is easily replaced as a separate unit....some can be, some can't be....if you can remove the switch easily then you have to identify and obtain the correct (or suitable) replacement....	Usually the male terminal is an integrated part of the switch....and they aren't replaceable. Not having seen your 'switch panel' I can't say if the switch is easily replaced as a separate unit....some can be, some can't be....if you can remove the switch easily then you have to identify and obtain the correct (or suitable) replacement....	put the inline fuse (if you use one) close to the battery...
Human: I was doing some work on my boat, which I realized that the male spade connector that is connected to my boats rocker switchboard as broken off completly. I was wondering if there is anyway to fix this without replacing the entire switchboard any help is appriciated thanks! Assistant:	It might be possible to take the switch apart and soldier wire or an extension. Sometimes there's an fuse/breaker for each switch and you can attach there (if you know what you're doing). Or you can forget about that part of the panel and duplicate it elsewhere.	It might be possible to take the switch apart and soldier wire or an extension. Sometimes there's an fuse/breaker for each switch and you can attach there (if you know what you're doing). Or you can forget about that part of the panel and duplicate it elsewhere.	In what country are you located? Yamaha USA introduced a modification that added their retainer. Why not use that one?
Human: I was doing some work on my boat, which I realized that the male spade connector that is connected to my boats rocker switchboard as broken off completly. I was wondering if there is anyway to fix this without replacing the entire switchboard any help is appriciated thanks! Assistant:	Johnson101 said: So you are suggesting I should just buy a new switch panel? Click to expand... How old is the boat? There is a good chance that if that terminal fell off, that the rest of the panel is not far behind. It depends on the overall condition of the panel.	Johnson101 said: So you are suggesting I should just buy a new switch panel? Click to expand... How old is the boat? There is a good chance that if that terminal fell off, that the rest of the panel is not far behind. It depends on the overall condition of the panel.	In what country are you located? Yamaha USA introduced a modification that added their retainer. Why not use that one?
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	Stop! Before you destroy your engine. Cool elbows does not mean your engine is not running hot. Erratic temp readings at the gauge shows that air is being pumped in with cooling water. What engine and drive do you have?	Stop! Before you destroy your engine. Cool elbows does not mean your engine is not running hot. Erratic temp readings at the gauge shows that air is being pumped in with cooling water. What engine and drive do you have?	Great to hear - happy motoring!
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	Docksidemarineservices said: Stop! Before you destroy your engine. Cool elbows does not mean your engine is not running hot. Erratic temp readings at the gauge shows that air is being pumped in with cooling water. What engine and drive do you have? Click to expand... I have two MerCruiser 5.0 mpi. with bravo three outdrive	Docksidemarineservices said: Stop! Before you destroy your engine. Cool elbows does not mean your engine is not running hot. Erratic temp readings at the gauge shows that air is being pumped in with cooling water. What engine and drive do you have? Click to expand... I have two MerCruiser 5.0 mpi. with bravo three outdrive	Does anybody have an idea? I'm leaning towards the CDI as the triggers are pretty simple devices and I would think it be weak on 2 cylinders if a trigger was at fault.
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	rudder1 said: I have two MerCruiser 5.0 mpi. with bravo three outdrive Click to expand... BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure.	rudder1 said: I have two MerCruiser 5.0 mpi. with bravo three outdrive Click to expand... BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure.	You should have done a compression test before removing the head. Water in the cylinder usually points to the head gasket problem.
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	Docksidemarineservices said: BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure. Click to expand... Yes I meant Faria and thank you for your help. I will call my mechanic	Docksidemarineservices said: BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure. Click to expand... Yes I meant Faria and thank you for your help. I will call my mechanic	i understand all of that ....but yet nobody has been able to answer any of my questions......
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	rudder1 said: Yes I meant Faria and thank you for your help. I will call my mechanic Click to expand... Any chance it could be a ground wire somewhere? Where does the wire hook up in the engine compartment for the gauge?	rudder1 said: Yes I meant Faria and thank you for your help. I will call my mechanic Click to expand... Any chance it could be a ground wire somewhere? Where does the wire hook up in the engine compartment for the gauge?	turn counter clockwise and lift up....
Human: I have a 2005 Four winns and my temperature gauge was reading a little hot and my risers were cold so I changed out the gauge to a brand new one and then the new gauge started jumping around erratically so I called the company and they sent me a new gauge and the same thing is happening. I am plugged with wires going into the thermostat and I didn’t make a difference at the gauge. Nuts and wires are all tight on the back of the gauge so I was wondering if anybody could shed some light on this Assistant:	Docksidemarineservices said: BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure. Click to expand... .............	Docksidemarineservices said: BTW Faria is the company that makes the gauge. Yeah, you may want to hire a qualified Mechanic to look at this. He will have CDS or comparable scan tool to verify your engine temps and water pressure. Click to expand... .............	I don't think 12 volts is used to generate spark in that coil !!-----So do not use 12 volts in your testing !
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Personally, I'd use an ACR (auto charging relay) in place of the isolator.....best results occur if both batteries are of the same type ..... You can get the schematic from whoever made the part you choose - if they don't offer one, I'd buy another brand... And use the proper material to add to the wiring as needed....you wont be sorry to spend money in that depeartment...	Personally, I'd use an ACR (auto charging relay) in place of the isolator.....best results occur if both batteries are of the same type ..... You can get the schematic from whoever made the part you choose - if they don't offer one, I'd buy another brand... And use the proper material to add to the wiring as needed....you wont be sorry to spend money in that depeartment...	BBenny said: My grandfather has not long retired....Then about 3 weeks ago he decided to start his own project repairing an old boat back to its glory days.... In terms of the gift.....I have a budget of around £500 Is there anything I can get him that would help him out with his new project? Click to expand... Small things can chew into the budget for a project like this. Maybe you could get a bunch of these items to help put the finishing touches on the project? I know you're thinking along the lines of refurbishing the hull, but these are all things he'll need to put the boat into service. 1) Light kit (vintage look would be good for a boat like this). Get LED lights, they are bright and consume very little battery power. 2) Stainless steel cleats for the bow and both sides of the stern. 3) Marine grade wiring for lights and/or accessories. This type of wire has the stranded copper tinned and is more corrosion resistant than plain copper. A roll of 100' each of red and black will do the lights and some accessories. 4) Bumper bouys 5) Nice battery cover with anchor kit. 6) Weather tight butt connections with shrink tubing for the wiring. 7) Color matched dock lines 8) Rope to match dock lines 9) Fire extinguisher with mounting bracket. Get a good, stainless steel mounting bracket, not the flimsy plastic junk. 10) Good quality personal flotation devices 11) Throwable seat cushion or throwable ring. 12) Good quality rubber coated anchor and rope. 13) Folding paddle.
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	makomark said: And use the proper material to add to the wiring as needed....you wont be sorry to spend money in that depeartment... Click to expand... Thanks for the reply... What do you mean by this?. Thanks Dan	makomark said: And use the proper material to add to the wiring as needed....you wont be sorry to spend money in that depeartment... Click to expand... Thanks for the reply... What do you mean by this?. Thanks Dan	Glad you found something...I'd also suggest silicone dielectric grease on the connector halves....it's great for keeping the water out....and if you wanna go all out, get some nyogel for the conductive pins....
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	There is a schematic that comes with that piece in the picture. But in general is one better than the other	There is a schematic that comes with that piece in the picture. But in general is one better than the other	Chip all of that old foam out of the hull and go ahead and put in the deck. stragetically drill 2 inch holes in all the different sections and then use the poaring foam in each section and be prepared to do it all at once. What I did was keep the plugs you drilled out with a hole saw and as the foam expands you put the plug in the hole and seta weight on it. A gallon of pouring foam will be more than enough just mix small amounts at a time and have lots of mixing cups handy once you start to pour you dont want to stop. After the foam has cured you can shave and sand the deck flat and put a layer of glass and a good deck paint with grit. Where are you located I have three gallons of pouring foam looking for a home.
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Hunterdan777 said: Thanks for the reply... What do you mean by this?. Thanks Dan Click to expand... tinned wire, of the proper size....and heat shrink terminals, crimped with the proper tool.	Hunterdan777 said: Thanks for the reply... What do you mean by this?. Thanks Dan Click to expand... tinned wire, of the proper size....and heat shrink terminals, crimped with the proper tool.	Check for spark on all leads.-----------------Good spark will jump a gap of 3/8" or 1 cm and that test must be done.
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Hunterdan777 said: There is a schematic that comes with that piece in the picture. But in general is one better than the other Click to expand... I prefer the ACR as it has no additional voltage drop and the associated heat generation. The isolator's I've seen are typically high amperage diodes with heat sinks....Apollo technology....	Hunterdan777 said: There is a schematic that comes with that piece in the picture. But in general is one better than the other Click to expand... I prefer the ACR as it has no additional voltage drop and the associated heat generation. The isolator's I've seen are typically high amperage diodes with heat sinks....Apollo technology....	That is normal, they all do it, it's the way the internal linkage is designed
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	makomark said: I prefer the ACR as it has no additional voltage drop and the associated heat generation. The isolator's I've seen are typically high amperage diodes with heat sinks....Apollo technology.... Click to expand... Which one would you recommend then	makomark said: I prefer the ACR as it has no additional voltage drop and the associated heat generation. The isolator's I've seen are typically high amperage diodes with heat sinks....Apollo technology.... Click to expand... Which one would you recommend then	flabob1 said: Didn't notice that you said 4K, We could rule out a air leak. You didn't say if you advance the throttle if the rpms increase normal. Also that the throttle moves smoothly forward and aft. So I have to assume that it did. I would first say that your linkage ( cable ) is out of adjustment. When at Idle you are supplying fuel by the float system inside of the carb. Think of it as a toilet bowl and how it works. If the float goes down you get more water in your bowl. In the carb when the float goes down fuel fills the chamber and shuts off when the float come up . When you start the engine at Idle the engine sucks the fuel and lifts the valve open and fuel from the float is sucked out. When you advance the throttle to high RPM a different valve ( jet )come into play and dumps fuel along with the fuel from the float chamber. So if your linkage is correct what would increase your RPM and not let you reduce them. You have four carbs , what's command to four of them. It's possible you have a float sinking in the bowl or a valve seat bad of one carb and letting fuel out. That would increase the RPM. But 4K , It might ?. You still should be able to reduce the throttle and than it would be running rich and run rough. I worked on large A/C engines , Car engines and all float carb's work about the same. If this is a carb problem its a good one and I would like to know. Good luck. Click to expand... Thanks for your suggestions. I have rebuild a number of auto engines, including carbs. and even the old Rochester fuel injection systems so I am very familiar with fuel systems, but this one has me stumped. I disconnected the throttle and even applied pressure on the four carb linkage - which I checked to see if all butterflys were closing, they were - yet the dam thing still ran at 3-4K!!! Most problems I have read about concern poor idle, no start, or no high rpm speed, etc. If the floats were off, or the float needle was leaking, that would cause poor idle, or no idle at all. As I mentioned before, I have to get the correct O rings (Yamaha calls them "washers") for the caps to the main jets. When I do and - again - take apart these carbs, I'll check everything again and see if this still happens and let you know results, probably end of next week. Thanks, again.
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Use an ACR or VSR (same thing but different name from different brands). Blue Seas, BEP are two common ones. You will lose a lot of charge if you use diode isolators due to the losses in them. There are I believe also some types of lossless isolators available now but I haven't played with one yet.	Use an ACR or VSR (same thing but different name from different brands). Blue Seas, BEP are two common ones. You will lose a lot of charge if you use diode isolators due to the losses in them. There are I believe also some types of lossless isolators available now but I haven't played with one yet.	It's been a while since I've dropped by and a tad late to answer haventaclue but wanted to post this pic that may help others who has the same question. BTW on some switches, it's recommended not to switch batteries while motor is running.
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	I agree...... an ACR or VSR will serve your needs much better. Isolators are old school, and offer an inherent .7 voltage loss. Rather than making direct battery connections, I would take your "charge leads" to the rear of your MBSS terminals #1 and #2. This is schematically identical and eliminates the battery Rat's Nest that we often see.	I agree...... an ACR or VSR will serve your needs much better. Isolators are old school, and offer an inherent .7 voltage loss. Rather than making direct battery connections, I would take your "charge leads" to the rear of your MBSS terminals #1 and #2. This is schematically identical and eliminates the battery Rat's Nest that we often see.	the charging voltage to your battery is not a straight line dc...it has pulses riding on top of your battery output and these pulses are what give you your tach reading.if these pulses are too high with a non regulated system then your tach will go bonkers...it will read low and the high and just go all over the place..you cannot run a sealed or a gel battery with an unregulated system....sooner or later you will lose the rectifier.. most hard to find wiring problems under the instrument panel are cause by crimps...especially if the boat if left in the elements or used in salt water...the only real way to fix that is to remove the crimps and solder the wires together...boat people should be shot for using them in the first place....same with wires in the terminal connections...they slide the wire in and then crimp it... ...
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Thank you for all the info... It's a great learning experience... This is the one I'm probably going to go with	Thank you for all the info... It's a great learning experience... This is the one I'm probably going to go with	Ser. 351478 Mod. PROV150LD
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	I appreciate all the help from those of you that responded to me... I ended up buying the one pictured above and it works like a charm	I appreciate all the help from those of you that responded to me... I ended up buying the one pictured above and it works like a charm	Update......I came home, put both batteries on charge, and when they reached 100%, I unplugged the charger. I tested the trolling motor, and it fizzled out after a minute or so. The starter battery barely cranked the outboard motor. Should I assume that the batteries are both bad, and won't hold a charge? The month/year dots weren't punched out, so I don't remember the year of the batteries. I don't have a load tester. Could it be anything eles? '
Human: So I'm thinking about adding an isolator to my two battery setup... I already have an external charger as shown in the pic so that I can plug my boat in when not in use. My main battery starts my motor (bildge/and live well) and my auxiliary battery basically does everything else which includes my trolling motor, pronav gps, radio and graph. What I was looking to do was add the isolator to charge the secondary battery if it gets low and was wondering if this would work... I have a 75 Horse Mariner... input on this is much appreciated and also any kind of diagram would help Thanks, Dan Assistant:	Excellent!	Excellent!	Natter said: It seems that on plane, the water pump is above the water level; am I correct that the pump should be sucking the water up at this time? Any reason it wouldn't be? Anyone seen this condition? My family loves being on the boat but theyre getting bored with headway speed all summer. Thanks! Click to expand... Yes, the pump "sucks" or turns whenever the crankshaft is turning. And since the impeller is notched to the crankshaft via the woodruff key, it also turns. The crankshaft is turning at all times when the engine is running. So if I've read you correctly, when your in neutral with the engine running you've got a steady stream of water exiting the tell tale? And by the way, yamaha 2 strokes have a strong pisser, so to speak. Is this stream strong or weak? And then while still in neutral with engine running, you trim up the engine and the engine stops pissing? Do I have you correct?
Human: Have replaced starter, starter solenoid, ignition switch, and battery. Problem still pops up randomly. Boat starts and runs just fine....sometimes. Other times, you turn the ignition key to first position....gauges turn on and look good, volt meter on the dash shows just below to just above 12v. Turn the key to start motor....nada, zilch, nothing happens! Kill switch on the dash works. When that is out, all the gauges go back to zero. Put the kill switch fob back in place and gauges go back to working. Jostle the throttle in and out of forward and reverse, center it to normal....no effect. There are five round red circuit breakers on the engine....press on all of them....nada. Let the boat sit overnight. Turn the key...presto! the engine roars into action!! Have been thru this scenario a dozen times now. Boat starts and runs multiple times....then it won't. Sometimes while it is hot, and sometimes not. I'm thinking there is a bad ground wire involved somewhere? Either in the kill switch, or the throttle/fwd reverse lever, or somewhere else? Question #1...how do I debug this? that is...how would you go about finding a bad ground connection? Question #2 is it possible to bypass all the interlocks and "hot start" the engine? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated!! Assistant:	Things I have seen that will do this... Crummy battery switch ( my experience is that the "Blue Sea" ones are more reliable than the "round ones") . Poor quality ground connection to start battery. This cable should be a single marine grade cable directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block. Given labor involved, I'd just change this cable out for a new marine grade one making sure it is a direct connection from the engine block to the start battery and that the connections are CLEAN and tight...BTW... don't use wing nuts on the battery connection. Check the positive cables while you are at it.	Things I have seen that will do this... Crummy battery switch ( my experience is that the "Blue Sea" ones are more reliable than the "round ones") . Poor quality ground connection to start battery. This cable should be a single marine grade cable directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the engine block. Given labor involved, I'd just change this cable out for a new marine grade one making sure it is a direct connection from the engine block to the start battery and that the connections are CLEAN and tight...BTW... don't use wing nuts on the battery connection. Check the positive cables while you are at it.	Usually deposits on plugs. replace
Human: I have a 2001 Mercruiser 3.0. I recently had work done on steering mechanism. New starter last year. My problem is I can put the muffs on start it but it putters and try to stall until i give it gas. Let it run for 20 mins max . try to start it won't... Any answers? I was thinking maybe changing the slave solenoid?? Thanks for any suggestions.... Assistant:	Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", and scroll down to inboard and I/O's and click on Mercruiser forum. Post your question there.	Go to the top left of this page, click on "Forum Home", and scroll down to inboard and I/O's and click on Mercruiser forum. Post your question there.	Not yet I ordered the manual for the engine and a friend will look at it as I am back up in Pa again and the boat is in Florida. Yes it was the throttle only button. You are probably correct I will forward your advice to my friend. Thanks I will let you know after he looks at it.
Human: I have a 2001 Mercruiser 3.0. I recently had work done on steering mechanism. New starter last year. My problem is I can put the muffs on start it but it putters and try to stall until i give it gas. Let it run for 20 mins max . try to start it won't... Any answers? I was thinking maybe changing the slave solenoid?? Thanks for any suggestions.... Assistant:	Ayuh,..... Sounds like a fuel delivery issue,...... probably the carb,......	Ayuh,..... Sounds like a fuel delivery issue,...... probably the carb,......	Checked the flywheel key ?