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Human: I have a 1990 Chaparral 2050SL with a Mercruiser 4.3 and I think the Neutral safety switch is bad. I have had no luck finding a replacement switch or how to fix it. ANY and ALL advice is appreciated!!! Assistant:	I will take some pictures tonight. I did not try and jump the wires. I am not very strong in dealing with electricity, hahaha!!! I will post pictures up later tonight or tomorrow. It's really weird because sometimes it starts up right away and other times I have to mess with the handle.	I will take some pictures tonight. I did not try and jump the wires. I am not very strong in dealing with electricity, hahaha!!! I will post pictures up later tonight or tomorrow. It's really weird because sometimes it starts up right away and other times I have to mess with the handle.	bondo said: Ayuh,..... Donno what that is with the single wire on it,...... The slave solenoid is the other thingy with the other red cables attached to it,..... Click to expand... Pardon my ignorance but what is a "slave solenoid" Also, the other thingy that has both red wires tagged to one side has a reset button on the back and appears to be a thermal or overcurrent protection. The LM318s in my Silverton had one each sticking out of the plastic cover for the ignition electrics on the engine.
Human: I have a 1990 Chaparral 2050SL with a Mercruiser 4.3 and I think the Neutral safety switch is bad. I have had no luck finding a replacement switch or how to fix it. ANY and ALL advice is appreciated!!! Assistant:	The control box may just need a bit of maintenance.....grease dries up and, with a bit of dirt, can cause all sorts of interesting behaviors.	The control box may just need a bit of maintenance.....grease dries up and, with a bit of dirt, can cause all sorts of interesting behaviors.	Looks like the link is a bit short...but the angle of the pic isn't best to determine that. when in doubt, remove the link...then center the steering cable and then cent the engine...measure between the holes (where the link drop in) and compare that to the link...if its off by inches, time to find the correct one.
Human: I have a 1990 Chaparral 2050SL with a Mercruiser 4.3 and I think the Neutral safety switch is bad. I have had no luck finding a replacement switch or how to fix it. ANY and ALL advice is appreciated!!! Assistant:	What kind of grease do you put in there? I am new to this type of problem. Any how-to videos or information is appreciated.	What kind of grease do you put in there? I am new to this type of problem. Any how-to videos or information is appreciated.	Totally agree with Makomark on everything he wrote. From what you described, your left side ground is very weak. Recently I completely re-wired my boat trailer. Ran separate ground wires down each side. That way, you can also run a ground wire to your side marker lights and your center rear light, if your trailer requires one. I ran white 14 AWG ground wire just to be on the safe side to assure adequate current flow at max power draw. It was marine grade wire I happened to have in the shop. One other trick on a re-wiring job. Whenever wires come through the metal frame, that has the potential to chafe off the insulation over time. Most trailers have plastic insets to mitigate that problem. But over time and exposure, they get brittle and break. Get a small block of duct seal compound from your local hardware store. This stuff will not dry out and it's non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-conductive and non-staining. Take a small gob of it and work it all around every wire where it comes through a hole in the metal frame. It will protect those wires forever, and it makes the wiring job look very professional.
Human: I have a 1990 Chaparral 2050SL with a Mercruiser 4.3 and I think the Neutral safety switch is bad. I have had no luck finding a replacement switch or how to fix it. ANY and ALL advice is appreciated!!! Assistant:	What kind of grease do you put in there? Click to expand... Ayuh,... See my signature, it Certainly applies here,.... Any grease at all will work, just fine,....	What kind of grease do you put in there? Click to expand... Ayuh,... See my signature, it Certainly applies here,.... Any grease at all will work, just fine,....	Did cleaning/replacing the vast resolve the bogging down issue? I have same engine and same issue
Human: Trying to install a power pack on a 1970 Evinrude 60 horsepower I don't know where the wires go Assistant:	Ayuh,.... You've got a johnson outboard problem,.... Not a boat wirin' problem,.... Take yer question to the johnson outboard forum,....	Ayuh,.... You've got a johnson outboard problem,.... Not a boat wirin' problem,.... Take yer question to the johnson outboard forum,....	1st.....never ever never ever run up ur rpms in neutral. Any thing above 1500 and ur asking for trouble. Doing so provides no diagnostic value or outcome, thus is useless. When in gear ear and throttling up if the engine sounds deep throaty then this is fuel related, most likely clogged jet(s). Pull carbs, pull jets, soak, clear....check floats to spec, reassemble.
Human: tilt trim circuit breaker. I had to jump to get outdrive up. Ive tested it and its bad. Is there any other way I can wire something less expensive in there? Assistant:	Why are ya askin' the same question in 2 different forums,..?? Same folks frequent the same forums ya know,..... Double postin' just leads to Confusion,..... I posted in yer thread in the OMC I/O forum,.....	Why are ya askin' the same question in 2 different forums,..?? Same folks frequent the same forums ya know,..... Double postin' just leads to Confusion,..... I posted in yer thread in the OMC I/O forum,.....	How about let's first start with learning from you the basics, other than your model number. Where are you hearing this metallic scrambling coming from....under the cowling, from lower unit? Since the engine starts, what happens with this sound as you increase rpms in neutral? What happens with this sound as you increase rpms in gear? Any smoke when it's running, other than normal exhaust. Odd smells? Might want to first check the flywheel cover. If it's mounted too low, you will hear the sound you've described, despite the cover not being metal. The more details you provide this forum, the more accurate thus better suggestions you'll receive.
Human: In the process of converting my tiller 25HP Johnson to remote controls. I'm wanting to mount a killswitch on the dash and I'm wanting a killswitch that is push-button but also with a lanyard. Is there such a thing? Thanks! Assistant:	Yes get a push to choke ignition switch and just wire the lanyard in series with the kill circuit. The ignition switch will have two M terminals wire the lanyard to those two terminals. Always disconnect the battery when your messing with the wiring if you accidentally short the kill wire to battery pos it will cook the powerpack. Even for a split second.	Yes get a push to choke ignition switch and just wire the lanyard in series with the kill circuit. The ignition switch will have two M terminals wire the lanyard to those two terminals. Always disconnect the battery when your messing with the wiring if you accidentally short the kill wire to battery pos it will cook the powerpack. Even for a split second.	tileslayer said: Starts up and runs for about 2 minutes then begins to run rough then finally cuts off. I have cleaned carbs 2 times. Put new plugs. Pulled plugs and top plug has a darker hue . and after running in high throttle around lake for 5 minutes kept cutting off and had to keep priming to get back on trailer. Any suggestions. Have read alot of posts and it seems that i made a bad choice of buying. Thought yam was a great product. Can anybody help it really pushes boat when it does run at mid to full throttle Click to expand... Your words above in bold are a good indication of where the most likely problem is located...the fuel pump. Depending on how you store your outboard, the only time when priming the engine is needed is during a cold start (1st start of the day). With a healthy fuel pump, no matter how many times you start and cut engine you should not need to re-prime engine after initial cold start. See schematic below of your fuel pump, located center right in picture. Dismount the pump and check for leaks. If you've got a friend nearby, have them squeeze primer bulb as you look at fuel pump for leaks. If it leaks, replace it with a new fuel pump. If no visible leak is seen, re-mount fuel pump. Take the boat back out on the water and run it. When it starts running rough, feel the primer bulb with your hand. You should feel flow running through the bulb as the engine is running. If the bulb is collapsing, that's indication #1 of a bad fuel pump. If the bulb did collapse, now you'll get the engine started and run it again. But this time keep your hand on the primer bulb and don't let it collapse. As the engine continues to run, you prime the bulb keeping it tight (don't over prime, just till bulb is tight). Keep repeating this for a few minutes as the engine runs in the mid rpms. If the engine continues to run, that's indication #2 of a bad fuel pump. And you don't need a #3 to complete this troubleshooting. It's a bad fuel pump. Replace. Luckily they're not expensive. View attachment 15524
Human: In the process of converting my tiller 25HP Johnson to remote controls. I'm wanting to mount a killswitch on the dash and I'm wanting a killswitch that is push-button but also with a lanyard. Is there such a thing? Thanks! Assistant:	#50-11681 will work for both I/O and outboard and will mount thru the dash the normal outboard switch would need to mount to a plate.	#50-11681 will work for both I/O and outboard and will mount thru the dash the normal outboard switch would need to mount to a plate.	saltchuckmatt said: Pulled the valve cover off tonight and everything's appears good. Can't find my feeler gauges so I will go buy new ones tomorrow. They are not to tight and all seem to be close to spec by feel. I guess we will see tomorrow...I did note they are a tight tolerance. I find it hard to believe that this is the problem. Click to expand... Ok pretty much looked at everything and or changed over parts that I know works. I guess I stumped everyone here. Valves adjustments were almost perfect but now they are even better. The only thing I can think of is some kind of internal issue or a crack in the intake manifold that I cant see or hear. Anyone know how to hook up a intake manifold gauge on a T8? I think I'll just part it out.
Human: In the process of converting my tiller 25HP Johnson to remote controls. I'm wanting to mount a killswitch on the dash and I'm wanting a killswitch that is push-button but also with a lanyard. Is there such a thing? Thanks! Assistant:	The 11681 is just what I was looking for....push-button capability also with lanyard emergency capability. Ordered it this morning! Thanks! Kim, your signature is misleading....it doesn't take just one nickel to go first class....it takes quite a few. Thanks again for all your help with these projects I'm undertaking!	The 11681 is just what I was looking for....push-button capability also with lanyard emergency capability. Ordered it this morning! Thanks! Kim, your signature is misleading....it doesn't take just one nickel to go first class....it takes quite a few. Thanks again for all your help with these projects I'm undertaking!	Thanks dward<> 1 more Question, do i need to replace the Metal Manifold Gasket? Thanks for Your Help!! LakeRat1
Human: In the process of converting my tiller 25HP Johnson to remote controls. I'm wanting to mount a killswitch on the dash and I'm wanting a killswitch that is push-button but also with a lanyard. Is there such a thing? Thanks! Assistant:	a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into. Its easy to spend a couple hundred at the sport store and walk out the door with a small paper sack	a boat is a hole in the water you throw money into. Its easy to spend a couple hundred at the sport store and walk out the door with a small paper sack	Check your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. Hopefully you just have a bad pressure switch.
Human: My boat runs but will only run while the starter is engaged. I had to gimp it back to the landing. Can someone please help? Assistant:	sounds like you have lost the +12VDC feed from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil.....could be a bad switch, a dirty harness connector (pin or socket), a fuse or circuit breaker in that lead.....	sounds like you have lost the +12VDC feed from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil.....could be a bad switch, a dirty harness connector (pin or socket), a fuse or circuit breaker in that lead.....	Thank you Sir, unrestricted fuel flow into the fuel cell when the dip was eliminated.
Human: My boat runs but will only run while the starter is engaged. I had to gimp it back to the landing. Can someone please help? Assistant:	Or the lanyard is pulled.	Or the lanyard is pulled.	Thanks, The battery i got with the boat was a pretty heavty jcb battery, i thought there might be a problem with it so i bought a new 40ah car battery and tried it, just seemed to work the same. I can get the fishfinder to work, but when turning on anything else it just goes dead. I have connected in two solar panels to try and raise the voltage a bit, it seems to help a bit but not much.
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	That would be a lot of work.----Open up the box , see if you can find the number of the switch.----Order a key.------Why was there no key ?-----Sometimes the seller uses that ploy to sell a motor with problems.	That would be a lot of work.----Open up the box , see if you can find the number of the switch.----Order a key.------Why was there no key ?-----Sometimes the seller uses that ploy to sell a motor with problems.	I've used them several times...excellent quality & service....
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	racerone said: Why was there no key ? Click to expand... He said he lost the key. Everything else is as represented and we wrote a refund or adjustment in the bill of sale. He was going to fix it, but I wanted to get it done with little delay. I will open it up and see if I can get a number for replacement. Thanks for quick reply.	racerone said: Why was there no key ? Click to expand... He said he lost the key. Everything else is as represented and we wrote a refund or adjustment in the bill of sale. He was going to fix it, but I wanted to get it done with little delay. I will open it up and see if I can get a number for replacement. Thanks for quick reply.	Thanks for the suggestions. I too would prefer having all house functions off the 450AH battery bank, but presumably due to the PO's advanced age, he installed the new bank at the other end of the boat from my DC power panel. A couple hundred dollars worth of cable, plus the absurdity of sending the charge power forward only to send it right back again. Not an efficient setup. It might be possible but adding another alternator would be a real PITA, logistically speaking. Just getting to the one requires all the dexterity I can muster, never mind trying to cobble in another bracket system. Can you explain to me how it's possible not to overcharge the starboard battery? The batteries are new BTW, but if I'm pumping 14V out of my alternator as it charges the depleted port battery, and that same voltage is on the mostly charged starboard battery, won't it cook it? The boat has a built in 120v battery charger for when we are plugged in, and that doesn't have separate charge output for the two batteries either, even though the manufacturer knew that one battery would get drawn down a lot more than the other one.
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	If that doesn't work, then next option would be to replace the switch with a new one (w/ key)...if you want to relocate things, you'll need another switch for the primer function...the schematic should e in the service manual...	If that doesn't work, then next option would be to replace the switch with a new one (w/ key)...if you want to relocate things, you'll need another switch for the primer function...the schematic should e in the service manual...	Each line has its own pick-up and F/W separator therefore totally independent of one another. I checked the check valve and it is just fine blew on it both ways and it did what it was suppose to do. Spring works well. Going to take it for a burn tonight perhaps.
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	I took the RC case off the bulkhead and took the 3 case bolts out, decided to not rush into opening the box in case of disturbing sprung stuff...The local OMC guy was sick today. Stopped by a locksmith who, after a while, offered to impress a blank to get the keyway pattern. He said about 70% success with failure being non-destructive, said cost for first key and try would be $30. If the OMC guy doesn't have a good solution, I'd prefer not to disassemble the case to remove the key cylinder. The controls move very smoothly, the previous owner over greased everything.	I took the RC case off the bulkhead and took the 3 case bolts out, decided to not rush into opening the box in case of disturbing sprung stuff...The local OMC guy was sick today. Stopped by a locksmith who, after a while, offered to impress a blank to get the keyway pattern. He said about 70% success with failure being non-destructive, said cost for first key and try would be $30. If the OMC guy doesn't have a good solution, I'd prefer not to disassemble the case to remove the key cylinder. The controls move very smoothly, the previous owner over greased everything.	Definite REPLACEMENT Mnwater said: i do have a picture of the damage Click to expand...
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	Look real closely at the ignition switch where the key goes in. You should find a number on it. Take that number to any OMC dealer and he should be able to find a key for you.	Look real closely at the ignition switch where the key goes in. You should find a number on it. Take that number to any OMC dealer and he should be able to find a key for you.	Mike....my '95 Ranger is d Mike....my '95 Ranger is driven just like your truck...and I did the same gas-in-the-jar with the same results. I did get it to phase separate after I added enough water to it and shook it just so I could see what it looked like.
Human: I bought a boat with a Evinrude E40 EL CR motor. There is no key for the remote control unit. I want to bypass the key with an ignition switch and a momentary starter switch. I'm looking for wiring color codes and how to wire other items such as the primer circuit. I would also be glad if I could use the switch operated by the key cylinder without key. I'm attaching a pic of the model of RC. TIA for help, Larry y Assistant:	I removed the old switch, did not find a number, chose a sierra replacement for quick delivery, installed it with some difficulty due to short wiring harness to switch, reassembled. All good for a $20 part (+ a couple of hours). Lesson learned: hook up the shortest hardest to make connections first. Thanks to all for suggestions.	I removed the old switch, did not find a number, chose a sierra replacement for quick delivery, installed it with some difficulty due to short wiring harness to switch, reassembled. All good for a $20 part (+ a couple of hours). Lesson learned: hook up the shortest hardest to make connections first. Thanks to all for suggestions.	Pictures will be coming soon. Webekin
Human: Panther lift aftermarket outboard tilt unit: Motor operates smoothly and powerfully in the down position. Elevating the motor causes the motor to bog or lag to the point near stall. Switching polarity at the battery does not change anything except the orientation of the switch. Push the button up and the motor goes down. This leads me to believe that there is a motor issue and not a connector or switch. I only know enough about small electric motors to change the brushes. anyone know about these motors? Thanks Kirk Assistant:	Are ALL your connections good, clean and tight ??	Are ALL your connections good, clean and tight ??	Rick - Okay on the windlass wire - I think it is actually larger. It's a Horizon 600 and the spec sheet specifies 8 gauge. I matched the wires coming out of the windless, so that should be okay. I thought they were 10 gauge. What I did was run a heavy duty highly insulated dual cable (battery cable) from my battery switch to a bus behind the console, then pulled power and ground off of that buss for power to VHF, GPS-MAP, depthfinder, windlass, lights, horn, spot light. etc, etc. Each of those is wired through a fuse panel using auto-type spade fuses. The only thing I used the accessory terminal on the key switch for was the lights on the gauges. This sounds similar to what you are recommending for Jay. I have not had any problems with the pre-applied shrink wrap connectors, at least as yet. I think either method works.
Human: Panther lift aftermarket outboard tilt unit: Motor operates smoothly and powerfully in the down position. Elevating the motor causes the motor to bog or lag to the point near stall. Switching polarity at the battery does not change anything except the orientation of the switch. Push the button up and the motor goes down. This leads me to believe that there is a motor issue and not a connector or switch. I only know enough about small electric motors to change the brushes. anyone know about these motors? Thanks Kirk Assistant:	Boobie said: Are ALL your connections good, clean and tight ?? Click to expand... Most definitely. I only use soldered connections and crimped connectors when no other choice is available. Thank you for responding. Kirk.	Boobie said: Are ALL your connections good, clean and tight ?? Click to expand... Most definitely. I only use soldered connections and crimped connectors when no other choice is available. Thank you for responding. Kirk.	You're seeing water out the telletale when pressure applied bc it's taking the path of least resistance. The motor isn't overheating at that time bc it's not under load. In contrast, when under load and no external water pressure applied it's overheating. My guess is water isn't circulating around the head, i.e. blockage. 30 yr old motor. When was last time you pulled the heads off to clean out the water passages?
Human: I'm stumped on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This problem may have existed for a long time. But now that I know about it, i need to do something about it. Issue: 2 125v 30amp services feed my houseboat. With ONE shore power connection in place, i have no amperage leaking. With both connected (doesn't matter which one), i'm leaking amperage (presumably into the lake...) Connections: 2 30amp feeds come into a breaker box. 2 30 amp breakers feed a 30 foot run to a subpanel with 2 dual-20 amp breakers (only 3 of the 20's are in use). I've been rewiring and reconnecting wires and i cannot for the life of me figure this one out. Primary panel has grounds connected, neutrals connected (not to the grounds) and hots feeding the breakers. On the sub-panel, the grounds are connected, the neutrals connected to the neutral bus, and the hots go to the left and right side. I must be missing something disgustingly obvious. Any ideas? Thank you! Joseph Assistant:	based on the little bit of data you provided, its had to say what's going on....exactly what do you mean when you say "I'm leaking amperage..."? Is the panel on the boat setup for only 120VAC service? are both of the 30amps feeds independent? Do you know the phase relationship between the two outlets you are connecting to? Does the "leakage" occur with or without any of the loads connected and turned on?	based on the little bit of data you provided, its had to say what's going on....exactly what do you mean when you say "I'm leaking amperage..."? Is the panel on the boat setup for only 120VAC service? are both of the 30amps feeds independent? Do you know the phase relationship between the two outlets you are connecting to? Does the "leakage" occur with or without any of the loads connected and turned on?	I'd be inclined to keep the starting battery for the engine and the deep cycle for your electronics- two isolated systems except with a common ground. you can use the switch to "bridge" the batteries in case the need arises. If you add an ACR - auto charging relay, the alternator can maintain the deep cycle without any manual intervention with a switch...just a different thought
Human: I'm stumped on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This problem may have existed for a long time. But now that I know about it, i need to do something about it. Issue: 2 125v 30amp services feed my houseboat. With ONE shore power connection in place, i have no amperage leaking. With both connected (doesn't matter which one), i'm leaking amperage (presumably into the lake...) Connections: 2 30amp feeds come into a breaker box. 2 30 amp breakers feed a 30 foot run to a subpanel with 2 dual-20 amp breakers (only 3 of the 20's are in use). I've been rewiring and reconnecting wires and i cannot for the life of me figure this one out. Primary panel has grounds connected, neutrals connected (not to the grounds) and hots feeding the breakers. On the sub-panel, the grounds are connected, the neutrals connected to the neutral bus, and the hots go to the left and right side. I must be missing something disgustingly obvious. Any ideas? Thank you! Joseph Assistant:	My first thought is hire a marine electrician. If you do not know what your doing dont do it. Wire fires on a boat is the number one killer get a second opinion.	My first thought is hire a marine electrician. If you do not know what your doing dont do it. Wire fires on a boat is the number one killer get a second opinion.	How about pinstripping her with tape
Human: I'm stumped on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This problem may have existed for a long time. But now that I know about it, i need to do something about it. Issue: 2 125v 30amp services feed my houseboat. With ONE shore power connection in place, i have no amperage leaking. With both connected (doesn't matter which one), i'm leaking amperage (presumably into the lake...) Connections: 2 30amp feeds come into a breaker box. 2 30 amp breakers feed a 30 foot run to a subpanel with 2 dual-20 amp breakers (only 3 of the 20's are in use). I've been rewiring and reconnecting wires and i cannot for the life of me figure this one out. Primary panel has grounds connected, neutrals connected (not to the grounds) and hots feeding the breakers. On the sub-panel, the grounds are connected, the neutrals connected to the neutral bus, and the hots go to the left and right side. I must be missing something disgustingly obvious. Any ideas? Thank you! Joseph Assistant:	Resistance equals heat if a wire or component is getting hot it may be under wired or faulty. Weak connections will also draw alot of amps. Say your refrigerator pulls 10 amps and the breaker has a poor connection the fridge will still pull 10 amps plus resistance the actual load will be higher. A good amp probe is a nice tool for diagnosing faulty components or a indirect short. What you call a leak i call a short. There is a difference between negative and ground (neg earth)	Resistance equals heat if a wire or component is getting hot it may be under wired or faulty. Weak connections will also draw alot of amps. Say your refrigerator pulls 10 amps and the breaker has a poor connection the fridge will still pull 10 amps plus resistance the actual load will be higher. A good amp probe is a nice tool for diagnosing faulty components or a indirect short. What you call a leak i call a short. There is a difference between negative and ground (neg earth)	no, something has been omitted.....literally doesn't pass the sniff test.....
Human: I'm stumped on this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated! This problem may have existed for a long time. But now that I know about it, i need to do something about it. Issue: 2 125v 30amp services feed my houseboat. With ONE shore power connection in place, i have no amperage leaking. With both connected (doesn't matter which one), i'm leaking amperage (presumably into the lake...) Connections: 2 30amp feeds come into a breaker box. 2 30 amp breakers feed a 30 foot run to a subpanel with 2 dual-20 amp breakers (only 3 of the 20's are in use). I've been rewiring and reconnecting wires and i cannot for the life of me figure this one out. Primary panel has grounds connected, neutrals connected (not to the grounds) and hots feeding the breakers. On the sub-panel, the grounds are connected, the neutrals connected to the neutral bus, and the hots go to the left and right side. I must be missing something disgustingly obvious. Any ideas? Thank you! Joseph Assistant:	Fieldpiece makes a nice stick meter as a hvac tech i could not live without it.	Fieldpiece makes a nice stick meter as a hvac tech i could not live without it.	Right, agree. Are you running the river, or sea? Just did a seawater Yamaha and it was scrap. Had to change out the block.....found one in my stock from NW Ontario. Brought home a Johnson 85 got lifted off the trailer on it's fibreglass runabout and thrown against the guy's house by Hurricane Andrew. My brother lived near Homestead Florida. What a mess. Like hell on earth.....spent 4 weeks trying to save his house. In his neighborhood 60 percent of the homes were not repairable. That Johnson turned out very good.....even with it's whole life in saltwater. The guy always took it back home immediately flushing it thoroughly. Certainly, my friend.....it's all about maintenance.
Human: Need some advice, I recently purchased a 21 foot Trophy Hardtop with mercruiser outdrive and a 8hp Honda kicker. I want to add a second battery, not sure about wiring. I see a lot of online info and the more I read the confuser I get. What i think is have one starting battery for the main motor, and a deep cycle for the kicker. I want to use the deep cycle for the house wiring, but want to make sure it gets charged while running with the main motor also. I may also want to add a crab puller or electric downrigger later. which battery would I use for those? Confusion over battery switchs, and Isolators and Automatic Charging relays. Should I also consider a third battery for house wiring? Space is limited for batterys Assistant:	If you send an e-mail to me at [email protected], I will return a complete write up and diagram of how I do it. Two batteries should be fine. That 8 hp kicker doesn't take a lot to crank, so just wire it to the same terminal as the Merc starting battery on the battery switch. As a matter of practice, when I start or run the boat, the battery switch is set to "both" batteries. That way, I keep them charged. Only when I stop the engine and continue to use the electronics do I switch to the "house" battery.	If you send an e-mail to me at [email protected], I will return a complete write up and diagram of how I do it. Two batteries should be fine. That 8 hp kicker doesn't take a lot to crank, so just wire it to the same terminal as the Merc starting battery on the battery switch. As a matter of practice, when I start or run the boat, the battery switch is set to "both" batteries. That way, I keep them charged. Only when I stop the engine and continue to use the electronics do I switch to the "house" battery.	Is there any reason I can't use my pressure cleaner to super clean the tank? Assuming of course that I get all remnants of fuel out of the tank first. I like the idea of filling the tank with water to ensure there were no fumes. Good thinkin slick! I want to use a hand operated bilge pump with a large diameter hose to drain all the fuel and as much crap as I can and then keep filling it with water and pumping it out with the big bilge until all the loose crap is out and then pressure clean as much of it as I can. Just the sheer turbulence of the pressure cleaner should loosen up most of the remaining sludge and gunk on the sides!
Human: Need some advice, I recently purchased a 21 foot Trophy Hardtop with mercruiser outdrive and a 8hp Honda kicker. I want to add a second battery, not sure about wiring. I see a lot of online info and the more I read the confuser I get. What i think is have one starting battery for the main motor, and a deep cycle for the kicker. I want to use the deep cycle for the house wiring, but want to make sure it gets charged while running with the main motor also. I may also want to add a crab puller or electric downrigger later. which battery would I use for those? Confusion over battery switchs, and Isolators and Automatic Charging relays. Should I also consider a third battery for house wiring? Space is limited for batterys Assistant:	Thanks for the Info CHawk. Just as I thought I was over complicating the issue.	Thanks for the Info CHawk. Just as I thought I was over complicating the issue.	Ayuh,.... This should be asked in the OMC Outboard forum, not here,...
Human: Can I make my own throttle control w/ a potentiometer I’m in the process of adding my new 2016 Honda 9.9HP kicker engine to my homemade dive platform (still under design and construction). I want to electricalley control the throttle from inside pilot house. Can I obtain the servo http://www.iboats.com/TrollMaster-Servo-Kit-TrollMaster/dm/view_id.887115?cm_mmc={cmids} Example I won’t spend a dime at this iboat site. Then use a potentiometer to control it like are the controllers work off resistanse correct? Anyone here own a https://www.amazon.com/CONTROLLKING...0032N03P4/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 That can mearsure the resistance values at closed throttle then at WOT. Thanks TB Assistant:	While the product in the link shows a potentiometer there is waaaay more to the system. What is not shown is the electrical actuator/motor and control electronics that attaches to the tiller for which this box is the control head. The price shown is not for a "potentiometer in a box". I have a degree in electrical engineering and would not attempt to build this myself for a one off....unless I had nothing else to do for a couple of weeks.... and was bored.	While the product in the link shows a potentiometer there is waaaay more to the system. What is not shown is the electrical actuator/motor and control electronics that attaches to the tiller for which this box is the control head. The price shown is not for a "potentiometer in a box". I have a degree in electrical engineering and would not attempt to build this myself for a one off....unless I had nothing else to do for a couple of weeks.... and was bored.	I’ve checked both plugs and changed both. I hold them on the motor and start it to test for spark and I’m only getting it sometimes thanks for the info
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	Well, about everyone I know that ever dealt with twins 454's has converted over to diesels for the very reason you want to do the same. As you probably know, the Navy has been using diesel-electrics for years, so it is possible. But these are backed up by massive battery systems. I do not have any direct experience doing this. Just a few observations from many, many years on the water 1. Electric motors and salt water do not go well together. Even motors that are "marine ready" will fail over time and a re-build is not usually worth the money. Replacement is the only viable option. 2. It is not just the motor itself that saltwater attacks, but every contact and connection in the electrical control system. 3. You will need a lot of electricity to run those motors at full power - over 220 KVA based on my calculations (300 HP X 746 watts/HP), and you will need a massive battery pack to act as a capacitor/regulator and backup. I think diesels are a proven and much more reliable option.	Well, about everyone I know that ever dealt with twins 454's has converted over to diesels for the very reason you want to do the same. As you probably know, the Navy has been using diesel-electrics for years, so it is possible. But these are backed up by massive battery systems. I do not have any direct experience doing this. Just a few observations from many, many years on the water 1. Electric motors and salt water do not go well together. Even motors that are "marine ready" will fail over time and a re-build is not usually worth the money. Replacement is the only viable option. 2. It is not just the motor itself that saltwater attacks, but every contact and connection in the electrical control system. 3. You will need a lot of electricity to run those motors at full power - over 220 KVA based on my calculations (300 HP X 746 watts/HP), and you will need a massive battery pack to act as a capacitor/regulator and backup. I think diesels are a proven and much more reliable option.	Hi Chris, It is not a good idea to wire anything to your ignition switch as when you start your engine the demand on the battery increases to what is called the 'cold crank amperage' which is far greater than the stated amps on your battery. This produced a surge into the system to start your engine, this surge can destroy delicate parts of electrical equipment if not unchecked. What I suggest is fitting a separate switch and an in line fuse on the positive line from your battery to not only your depth finder but all equipment, including lights and bilge pumps. Your negative side of the battery can be common to everything, including your starter switch. The old story that water and electricity don't mix is correct, so if water got into any of your contacts and caused a short circuit only a fuse would blow. With no fuse in line the wire would start to overheat and behave like an electric fire, glowing red and setting fire to the insulation surrounding the wire core. Nearly all boat switch panels include removable fuses and that is the reason why. Just remember, you would never wire up your house unless all the wires went through a fuse box. The same with a boat, in fact more so. regards, Eric PS. Start your engine first, then turn on your equipment to be safe. You can start a car with all the lights on and the radio but they are all protected by relays, this is not the case in boats unless they are very expensive ones..
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	I don't think the corrosion would be that big an issue with gasket-sealed totally enclosed (TEFC) motors. I mean, any worse than the cast iron blocks we have right now? The terminals should be no harder to maintain than the gauges on the fly bridge, battery wiring, breaker box, and such. They could be tinned even. Batteries should be okay, I would think, with the space saved from removing these ginormous Crusaders. 18 batteries in series would give the required voltage, but amps? Maybe 36 golf cart batteries in series-parallel? For a generator... am I seeing that conversion correctly that even two 75hp motors would require ~112kW?!?! That might be the deal killer there, eh? That's one serious generator to stick in the back of a 32-footer. Is that even possible? The reason this has piqued my interest is the things I have seen lately. Cruise ship a few months back was electric/hybrid. Boat that took us to Alcatraz two weeks ago was electric/hybrid. I work for Honda, and we now have a plug-in hybrid Accord that is electrically driven. My mom just bought one last week, and it is surprisingly quick and getting 64mpg on gas. This all tells me it is possible.... but possible in OUR boat?!	I don't think the corrosion would be that big an issue with gasket-sealed totally enclosed (TEFC) motors. I mean, any worse than the cast iron blocks we have right now? The terminals should be no harder to maintain than the gauges on the fly bridge, battery wiring, breaker box, and such. They could be tinned even. Batteries should be okay, I would think, with the space saved from removing these ginormous Crusaders. 18 batteries in series would give the required voltage, but amps? Maybe 36 golf cart batteries in series-parallel? For a generator... am I seeing that conversion correctly that even two 75hp motors would require ~112kW?!?! That might be the deal killer there, eh? That's one serious generator to stick in the back of a 32-footer. Is that even possible? The reason this has piqued my interest is the things I have seen lately. Cruise ship a few months back was electric/hybrid. Boat that took us to Alcatraz two weeks ago was electric/hybrid. I work for Honda, and we now have a plug-in hybrid Accord that is electrically driven. My mom just bought one last week, and it is surprisingly quick and getting 64mpg on gas. This all tells me it is possible.... but possible in OUR boat?!	Thanks Johnny , Iv fused all circuts . So you only run the motors starter off the starter batt ?
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	Many of the modern ships are now diesel electrics - a diesel run generator powering electric drive motors. Sometimes they are integrated with turbines. But they are huge diesels and generators. Try to arrange a tour of one of the new cruise ships or navy ships that are set up that way. Last one I saw was several years ago - it was one of the new Navy destroyers. I did a quick scan in the Internet and see that there are all kinds of conversion kits and discussions. So, you might me on to something. But getting 300 HP on a 32' boat is likely to be a real challange. Let us know what you find. You've certainly piqued my interest. BTW - Have a Honda 225 outboard on my current 25 ft fishing boat. It's a very good engine - 1500 hours plus, and no problems. Only thing is that they are maintenance intensive..	Many of the modern ships are now diesel electrics - a diesel run generator powering electric drive motors. Sometimes they are integrated with turbines. But they are huge diesels and generators. Try to arrange a tour of one of the new cruise ships or navy ships that are set up that way. Last one I saw was several years ago - it was one of the new Navy destroyers. I did a quick scan in the Internet and see that there are all kinds of conversion kits and discussions. So, you might me on to something. But getting 300 HP on a 32' boat is likely to be a real challange. Let us know what you find. You've certainly piqued my interest. BTW - Have a Honda 225 outboard on my current 25 ft fishing boat. It's a very good engine - 1500 hours plus, and no problems. Only thing is that they are maintenance intensive..	You may need to design your own replacement. You can go to either site below and do your own design, then see the results. http://boatdecals.biz/lettering/ http://www.boatus.com/boatgraphics/...tedTimeOffer&gclid=CIn3ls6UjrgCFdOe4AodqUoALQ
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	I agree 300hp is a bit optimistic. I was thinking... our boat originally came with Chrysler 318's (last owner put the Crusader gas hogs in). Not sure what the HP rating was on those, but guessing in the 180-200 range?? Going on that figure of 1/3-1/2, a couple 100hp motors would (at first guess) be capable of respectable cruising speeds. On that same first guess, I would think two 75's would at least get us the cruising speed we are at now. That is, IF that 1/3-1/2hp figure is accurate. So much guessing.... would hate to purchase motors and find out it is not enough. Lots of research to be done.	I agree 300hp is a bit optimistic. I was thinking... our boat originally came with Chrysler 318's (last owner put the Crusader gas hogs in). Not sure what the HP rating was on those, but guessing in the 180-200 range?? Going on that figure of 1/3-1/2, a couple 100hp motors would (at first guess) be capable of respectable cruising speeds. On that same first guess, I would think two 75's would at least get us the cruising speed we are at now. That is, IF that 1/3-1/2hp figure is accurate. So much guessing.... would hate to purchase motors and find out it is not enough. Lots of research to be done.	I had similar problem on my boat years ago. The fuel vent for the onboard tank at the gunnel was pushed in and blocked. Pulled out and ran fine. Also DO NOT USE 93 octane in 2 stroke motors it will cause excess carbon build up.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	The only way to make the electric drive work would be to have a diesel powered generator - too much energy for batteries alone...then you need to make sure everything is rated appropriately (duty cycle)...I'm positive you will find new diesels cheaper than a new diesel electric drive system. You are likely to find the diesel conversion is NOT cost effective...if you want the range to increase your dollars will be better spent buying larger fuel tanks...or by slowing down...you can research david pascoe's articles to get a more comprehensive view from an objective, experienced individual...and the points made are still valid today. If you really want the diesels, I'd suggest buying a used boat with a pair already installed...with the leap in fuel prices a few years ago, used boats are very cheap...a lot less hassle to buy it already configured.	The only way to make the electric drive work would be to have a diesel powered generator - too much energy for batteries alone...then you need to make sure everything is rated appropriately (duty cycle)...I'm positive you will find new diesels cheaper than a new diesel electric drive system. You are likely to find the diesel conversion is NOT cost effective...if you want the range to increase your dollars will be better spent buying larger fuel tanks...or by slowing down...you can research david pascoe's articles to get a more comprehensive view from an objective, experienced individual...and the points made are still valid today. If you really want the diesels, I'd suggest buying a used boat with a pair already installed...with the leap in fuel prices a few years ago, used boats are very cheap...a lot less hassle to buy it already configured.	The forum didn't like my pictures, but I'll keep trying.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	Hybrid stuff is only good for those that have deep pockets at this time.-------Many of these hybrid cars will be worthless when folks learn what it takes to maintain them and what battery replacement costs.----Most new products are " great " when they are new !!-----Anybody know what happened to the GM product caled ---------" VOLT "	Hybrid stuff is only good for those that have deep pockets at this time.-------Many of these hybrid cars will be worthless when folks learn what it takes to maintain them and what battery replacement costs.----Most new products are " great " when they are new !!-----Anybody know what happened to the GM product caled ---------" VOLT "	Terry, there is an adapter that you can get at most auto parts stores, Walmart, etc. I would suggest not meddling with the wires unless you know for sure which one goes were.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	As far as more range, i'm afraid we're at our limit where we sit now. I know we could have our props worked over for a little more potential range, but that's about all we can do. We have gone through every nook and cranny in the boat trying to figure a good spot for additional fuel, but the largest tank we would be able to add is around 40 gallons. Not exactly worth the effort required. As far as selling our boat and buying one already with diesels, that idea has occupied many conversations between my brother and I, but as you stated, the market is flooded with boats for sale... and CHEAP! That would be a good thing when it comes to by a new one, but is a very bad thing as far as selling ours. I would be surprised if we got $14k for ours. Brother wants to list it for $20k and see what happens, but.... I guess we'll see what happens. racerone, If you're referring to the EV1, have you ever seen the documentary 'Who Killed the Electric Car'? The oil companies did. As for today's hybrids, batteries are so expensive because the manufacturers can charge that much. To anybody with some know-how, they can be rebuilt. Our Civics are just an array of NiMh "D" cells. As for maintenance on the rest of the car... cheaper than a gasoline Civic. Working for Honda, though, I can't speak for the other companies' hybrids. Mark, I realize a diesel generator would be required. The batteries would essencially act as a buffer, or capacitor for the whole system. I think the size of the required generator would kill the whole project before any real planning starts anyway. We would need like 110+kW genny?!? I don't think we could fit anything NEAR that size in our boat. Whether this becomes a reality or not, I'm still toying with the idea and would like to learn as much as I can about it.	As far as more range, i'm afraid we're at our limit where we sit now. I know we could have our props worked over for a little more potential range, but that's about all we can do. We have gone through every nook and cranny in the boat trying to figure a good spot for additional fuel, but the largest tank we would be able to add is around 40 gallons. Not exactly worth the effort required. As far as selling our boat and buying one already with diesels, that idea has occupied many conversations between my brother and I, but as you stated, the market is flooded with boats for sale... and CHEAP! That would be a good thing when it comes to by a new one, but is a very bad thing as far as selling ours. I would be surprised if we got $14k for ours. Brother wants to list it for $20k and see what happens, but.... I guess we'll see what happens. racerone, If you're referring to the EV1, have you ever seen the documentary 'Who Killed the Electric Car'? The oil companies did. As for today's hybrids, batteries are so expensive because the manufacturers can charge that much. To anybody with some know-how, they can be rebuilt. Our Civics are just an array of NiMh "D" cells. As for maintenance on the rest of the car... cheaper than a gasoline Civic. Working for Honda, though, I can't speak for the other companies' hybrids. Mark, I realize a diesel generator would be required. The batteries would essencially act as a buffer, or capacitor for the whole system. I think the size of the required generator would kill the whole project before any real planning starts anyway. We would need like 110+kW genny?!? I don't think we could fit anything NEAR that size in our boat. Whether this becomes a reality or not, I'm still toying with the idea and would like to learn as much as I can about it.	ClassicAQ said: When you say ALL oil inject systems are gone are you also including the sensors?...its the sensors that trip the alarm. If the alarm is oil system related amd not temp related then its grounding somewhere within whatever remains of the sensors circuitry Click to expand... as far as I can tell, both tanks, and all the wiring harness are missing. only thing i can find is a harness plug with 7 wires, green, green/red, blue, black, brown, yellow/red, and yellow.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	I think you'll find you need a helluva lot more genset that 110KW...the 746 = 1 conversion is "pure" and doesn't account for any inefficiency...add to that the "surge requirement and things get real big... On the other side of the coin, it is torque that is required to spin the propeller...that is why a "smaller" hp rated diesel can push the same hull at a given speed that a higher hp rated gasoline engine does.. factor in how the electric motor is rated too and I'm pretty sure you will find yet another factor. you may want to consider replacing your current tank and maybe doing some rearranging of what is in the hull. you need to be mindful of the center of gravity, too....just food for thought.	I think you'll find you need a helluva lot more genset that 110KW...the 746 = 1 conversion is "pure" and doesn't account for any inefficiency...add to that the "surge requirement and things get real big... On the other side of the coin, it is torque that is required to spin the propeller...that is why a "smaller" hp rated diesel can push the same hull at a given speed that a higher hp rated gasoline engine does.. factor in how the electric motor is rated too and I'm pretty sure you will find yet another factor. you may want to consider replacing your current tank and maybe doing some rearranging of what is in the hull. you need to be mindful of the center of gravity, too....just food for thought.	Ok, thankyou I will need to try that today. Last night I checked the compression and all the cylinders are at 120
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	Good discussion, folks. Eric, maybe on another post I would like to hear how the oil companies killed the electric car. Doesn't make sense to me, given the historically high price of gasoline, it would seem that if current technology was a viable alternative, the market would switch to electric or hybrid cars pretty rapidly. However, every time I take a look, I find those vehicles entirely too limited in terms of range, power, utility, and expected longevity. My friends come to the same conclusion. Besides all of that, I am highly resentful that my tax dollars are going to subsidize something that the market is not realy to accept.	Good discussion, folks. Eric, maybe on another post I would like to hear how the oil companies killed the electric car. Doesn't make sense to me, given the historically high price of gasoline, it would seem that if current technology was a viable alternative, the market would switch to electric or hybrid cars pretty rapidly. However, every time I take a look, I find those vehicles entirely too limited in terms of range, power, utility, and expected longevity. My friends come to the same conclusion. Besides all of that, I am highly resentful that my tax dollars are going to subsidize something that the market is not realy to accept.	Stuart S said: No there is nothing to them at all... no power. No light, no data. Thanks! Click to expand... Power gets to the gauge via the key switch. In the boat.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	racerone said: Anybody know what happened to the GM product caled ---------" VOLT " Click to expand... umm, they still make it and sales have increased steadily since it's introduction? the all electric range has improved on the 2013 model with new battery chemistry?	racerone said: Anybody know what happened to the GM product caled ---------" VOLT " Click to expand... umm, they still make it and sales have increased steadily since it's introduction? the all electric range has improved on the 2013 model with new battery chemistry?	Hi Michael, did the CDi unit resolve the issue ? I have been working through exactly the same issue so was very pleased to find your thread confirming my thoughts which is good news considering the price of a CDi unit with #2 cylinder not firing at all. Also agree the documentation is wrong for the resistance measurements - they are the wrong way round !!
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	I would go with about 80% of engine power for electric motor sizing. I had a customer once that replaced a 230HP diesel engine in a Cat 330 excavator with a 200HP electric motor. The machine had more power with the electric motor. The issue with electric motors is the inability to lug. A direct dive boat would have 1 speed unless you go with VFD motor$. If one was going to put in a diesel generator set big enough to run propulsion motors, it would make more sense to just hook the diesel engine to the prop and forget about electric.	I would go with about 80% of engine power for electric motor sizing. I had a customer once that replaced a 230HP diesel engine in a Cat 330 excavator with a 200HP electric motor. The machine had more power with the electric motor. The issue with electric motors is the inability to lug. A direct dive boat would have 1 speed unless you go with VFD motor$. If one was going to put in a diesel generator set big enough to run propulsion motors, it would make more sense to just hook the diesel engine to the prop and forget about electric.	I can't say for certain, i just brought that up at one point and a guy said that chances are there may be a 150 lower on there because of the jet drive rating or something. Not really sure if true, otherwise ill have to look up some part numbers or something on the lower, if able, and see if i can match up if its really a 115 head on a 150 leg but on a parts finder, i looked at 115 and showed the thrust washer being the same part as one on a 150. (parts were listed under 2006-later)
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	I think you're getting ahead of yourself. The HP decision is determined by use. I'm the inventor that put my CC 33' Sports Sedan on a tandem axle trailer and pull it with the Semi Pintle on my Dodge Cummins 2500...wide, tall and long. What are you using your boat for? I plan to install twin Ford 4CYL hybrid motors from auto and use a marine exhaust manifold to "marine" the exhaust. Lots lighter and allows for many deep cell batteries low in the hull to keep my Chris Craft vertical - and on top. Why you ask...because I want to fish the mouth of the Columbia for Salmon and the thought of trolling without an engine running is fantastic. It doesn't take twin screws many revolutions - or horsepower - to keep it navigating true. Up and down river. So: Figure out if you have a nitch like me, or you want a direct replacement for the weight and horsepower in your boat today. Good luck - I will post again when I finish "Fortune Cookie" and provide photos.	I think you're getting ahead of yourself. The HP decision is determined by use. I'm the inventor that put my CC 33' Sports Sedan on a tandem axle trailer and pull it with the Semi Pintle on my Dodge Cummins 2500...wide, tall and long. What are you using your boat for? I plan to install twin Ford 4CYL hybrid motors from auto and use a marine exhaust manifold to "marine" the exhaust. Lots lighter and allows for many deep cell batteries low in the hull to keep my Chris Craft vertical - and on top. Why you ask...because I want to fish the mouth of the Columbia for Salmon and the thought of trolling without an engine running is fantastic. It doesn't take twin screws many revolutions - or horsepower - to keep it navigating true. Up and down river. So: Figure out if you have a nitch like me, or you want a direct replacement for the weight and horsepower in your boat today. Good luck - I will post again when I finish "Fortune Cookie" and provide photos.	Thanks have used plenty good soapy water. Sponge soft brush.
Human: My brother and I have a 1977 32' Luhrs with [cough-cough] twin Crusader 454's (model 350's). We get an absurd 1NMGP with this setup, and we are severely limited by our 140 gallon capacity. We have been considering a diesel conversion, but I cannot help but wonder about an electric conversion. Doing some crude research, it seems some 150hp motors could be purchased new in the ballpark of $5-6k. We would then also purchase a genset capable of driving both motors. From what I have been reading thus far, you would want 1/3 to 1/2 the electric horsepower of your current combustion horsepower, so two 150's should be sufficient. I have seen several YouTube videos for smaller boats doing the conversion, but I am having a hard time finding anything near our size. Does anybody have any input on this? Resources to start researching more into the feasibility? Anybody actually done this? I know it is possible, just wondering if it would be worth it over diesels. Thoughts? Input? Experience? Thanks in advance! Assistant:	Genset to battery to electric motor is less fuel efficient than direct engine to prop. While there are operational reasons for doing the whole genset to battery to electric motor, efficiency is not... unless you spend the majority of your time at idle/troll speeds and even that is dubious. For large scale systems it can make sense as it eliminates the need to a transmission to handle fwd/rev/idle. Also, internal combustion engines run best at a single constant speed and the whole genset thing allows this with speed control done electronically in the electric motors. Diesel electric trains work because there is no way to have a clutch survive startup from dead stop with direct diesel to wheels... Internal combustion engines have the max torque at some random speed about 80 to 90 % of WOT and zilch torque at low revs, while an electric motor has maximum torque output at zero rpms....	Genset to battery to electric motor is less fuel efficient than direct engine to prop. While there are operational reasons for doing the whole genset to battery to electric motor, efficiency is not... unless you spend the majority of your time at idle/troll speeds and even that is dubious. For large scale systems it can make sense as it eliminates the need to a transmission to handle fwd/rev/idle. Also, internal combustion engines run best at a single constant speed and the whole genset thing allows this with speed control done electronically in the electric motors. Diesel electric trains work because there is no way to have a clutch survive startup from dead stop with direct diesel to wheels... Internal combustion engines have the max torque at some random speed about 80 to 90 % of WOT and zilch torque at low revs, while an electric motor has maximum torque output at zero rpms....	Yep that's the one.