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compromise, and satisfy nearly everybody. Its adoption would free our national map from one more of its meaningless names--the name, in this case, of an undistinguished foreign naval officer whose only connection with our history is the fact that he fought against us during the American Revolution. Incidentally, it would also free me from the need of an apology for
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using the hybrid "Rainier-Tacoma"! * * * Many of the illustrations show wide reaches of wonderful country, and their details may well be studied with a reading glass. I am much indebted to the librarians and their courteous assistants at the Seattle and Tacoma public libraries; also to Prof. Flett for his interesting account of the flora of the National
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Park; to Mr. Eugene Ricksecker, of the United States Engineer Corps, for permission to reproduce his new map of the Park, now printed for the first time; and, most of all, to the photographers, both professional and amateur. In the table of illustrations, credit is given the maker of each photograph. The s sent out in the hope of promoting
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a wider knowledge of our country's noblest landmark. May it lead many of its readers to delightful days of recreation and adventure. Tacoma, June , . J. H. W. Second Edition.--The text has been carefully revised, much new matter added, and the information for tourists brought to date. The illustrations have been rearranged, and more {p.} than fifty new ones
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included. Views of the west and south sides, mainly, occupy the first half of the book, while the later pages carry the reader east and north from the Nisqually country. Nearly five thousand negatives and photographs have now been examined in selecting copy for the engravers. In the table of illustrations I am glad to place the names of several
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expert photographers in Portland, San Francisco, Pasadena and Boston. Their pictures, with other new ones obtained from photographers already represented, make this edition much more complete. For the convenience of tourists, as well as of persons unable to visit the Mountain but wishing to know its features, I have numbered the landmarks on three of the larger views, giving a
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key in the underlines. If this somewhat mars the beauty of these pictures, it gives them added value as maps of the areas shown. In renewing my acknowledgments to the photographers, I must mention especially Mr. Asahel Curtis of Seattle. The help and counsel of this intrepid and public-spirited mountaineer have been invaluable. Mr. A. H. Barnes, our Tacoma artist
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with camera and brush, whose fine pictures fill many of the following pages, is about to publish a book of his mountain views, for which I bespeak liberal patronage. My readers will join me in welcoming the beautiful verses written for this edition by a gracious and brilliant woman whose poems have delighted two generations of her countrymen. Thanks are
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also due to Senator Wesley L. Jones, Superintendent E. S. Hall of the Rainier National Park and the Secretary of the Interior for official information; to Director George Otis Smith of the U. S. Geological Survey for such elevations as have thus far been established by the new survey of the Park; to A. C. McClurg & Co. of Chicago,
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for permission to quote from Miss Judson's "_Myths and Legends of the Pacific Northwest_"; to Mr. Wallace Rice, literary executor of the late Francis Brooks, for leave to use Mr. Brooks's fine poem on the Mountain; to the librarians at the Public Library, the John Crerar Library and the Newberry Library in Chicago, and to many others who have aided
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me in obtaining photographs or data for this edition. Lovers of the mountains, in all parts of our country, will learn with regret that Congress, remains apparently indifferent to the conservation of the Rainier National Park and its complete opening to the public. At the last session, a small appropriation was asked for much-needed trails through the forests and to
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the high interglacial plateaus, now inaccessible save to the toughest mountaineer; it being the plan of the government engineers to build such trails on grades that would permit their ultimate widening into permanent roads. Even this was denied. The Idaho catastrophe last year again proved the necessity of trails to the protection of great forests. With the loggers pushing their
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operations closer to the Park, its danger calls for prompt action. Further, American tourists, it is said, annually spend $,, abroad, largely to view scenery surpassed in their own country. But Congress refuses the $, asked, even refuses $,, toward making the grandest of our National Parks safe from forest fires and accessible to students and lovers of nature! May
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, . [Illustration: Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass, with Ruth Mountain (the Wedge) on right and Sour-Dough Mountains on left.] [Illustration: White Glacier and Little Tahoma, with eastern end of the Tatoosh Range in distance.] {p.} CONTENTS. Page. The Mountain Speaks. Poem Edna Dean Proctor I. Mount "Big Snow" and Indian Tradition II. The National Park, its Roads and
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its Needs III. The Story of the Mountain IV. The Climbers V. The Flora of the Mountain Slopes Prof. J. B. Flett Notes ILLUSTRATIONS. The * indicates engravings made from copyrighted photographs. See notice under the illustration. THREE-COLOR HALFTONES. Title. Photographer. Page. Spanaway Lake, with reflection of the Mountain A. H. Barnes. Frontispiece View from Electron, showing west side of
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the Mountain Asahel Curtis View northward from top of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott Looking Northeast from slope of Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott * Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier A. H. Barnes * Spray Park, from Fay Peak W. P. Romans Crevasse in Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis North Mowich Glacier and the Mountain in a storm George V.
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Caesar ONE-COLOR HALFTONES. * Great crevasses in upper part of Cowlitz Glacier Kiser Photo Co. On the summit of Eagle Rock in winter George V. Caesar Winthrop Glacier and St. Elmo Pass Asahel Curtis White Glacier and Little Tahoma Asahel Curtis White River Canyon, from moraine of White Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott Telephoto view from near Electron, showing plateau
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on the summit Asahel Curtis View of the Mountain from Fox Island Charles Bedford * The most kingly of American mountains Romans Photographic Co. Party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis Ice Terraces, South Tahoma Glacier Rodney L. Glisan Mineral Lake and the Mountain A. H. Denman Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes Nisqually Canyon Kiser
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Photo Co. * North Peak, and South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waite {p.} * Basaltic Columns, South Mowich Glacier A. H. Waite Mountain Goat A. H. Barnes West side of summit, seen from Tahoma Fork A. H. Barnes Iron and Copper Mountains in Indian Henry's A. G. Bowles, Jr. Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott Great Crag
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on ridge separating North and South Tahoma Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott The Whistling Marmot Asahel Curtis View from Beljica, showing west side of the Mountain A. H. Barnes * Mountain Pine E. S. Curtis * Mount Wow, or Goat Mountain E. S. Curtis Rounded Cone of Mt. St Helen's A. H. Barnes * View northward from Simlayshe, or Eagle
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Peak Pillsbury Picture Co. , * Simlayshe, or Eagle Peak Linkletter Photographic Co. Exploring Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers A. H. Denman Anemones Miss Jessie Kershaw * North Tahoma Glacier A. H. Waite * Snow Lake in Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes A fair Mountaineer Asahel Curtis Indian Henry's, seen
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from South Tahoma Glacier A. H. Denman * Southwest side of the Mountain, seen from Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes Climbing Pinnacle Peak () Asahel Curtis A silhouette on Pinnacle Peak Dr. F. A. Scott * Rough Climbing E. S. Curtis Ptarmigan Asahel Curtis The Mountain, from Puyallup river B. L. Aldrich, Jr. Falls of the Little Mashell river A.
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H. Barnes Old Stage Road to Longmire Springs A. H. Barnes On Pierce County road, passing Ohop Valley S. C. Lancaster Cowlitz Chimneys S. C. Smith * Old Road near Spanaway A. H. Barnes Automobile Party above Nisqually Canyon Asahel Curtis Prof. O. D. Allen's Cottage Dr. F. A. Scott "Ghost Trees" Mrs. H. A. Towne Government Road in the
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Forest Reserve S. C. Lancaster "Hanging Glacier," an ice fall above the Cowlitz Asahel Curtis Leaving National Park Inn for Paradise Linkletter Photo Co. * On the Summit, showing Columbia's Crest Asahel Curtis Paradise Valley or "Park," and Tatoosh Mountains A. H. Barnes On Government Road, a mile above Longmires Linkletter Photo Co. Road near "Gap Point" Linkletter Photo Co.
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Snout of Nisqually Glacier, and Road Bridge Paul T. Shaw Pony Trail Bridge across the Nisqually Dr. H. B. Hinman Road a mile above the Bridge Asahel Curtis On the Pony Trail to Paradise Kiser Photo Co. Sierra Club lunching on Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis A Mountain Celery Mrs. Alexander Thompson Narada Falls, on Paradise River Herbert W. Gleason Washington
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Torrents, on Paradise River A. H. Barnes Portion of Paradise Park and Tatoosh Range A. H. Barnes View of the Mountain from the Tatoosh, with key to landmarks Herbert W. Gleason Ice Bridge, Stevens Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott Tug of War Asahel Curtis * Hiking through Paradise Valley in Winter J. H. Weer * Tatoosh Range, from Reese's Camp,
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in Winter J. H. Weer * Waterfall above Paradise Valley Photo, W. E. Averett; Copyright, Asahel Curtis Looking from Stevens Glacier to Mt. Adams Dr. F. A. Scott Reese's Camp C. E. Cutter Climbing the "Horn" on Unicorn Peak Asahel Curtis Stevens Canyon in October A. H. Barnes Sluiskin Falls A. H. Barnes Eminent scientist practices the simple life J.
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B. Flett * Nisqually Glacier, with its sources A. H. Barnes Sierra Club on Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis * Lost to the World Asahel Curtis "Sunshine" and "Storm" () Mrs. H. A. Towne {p.} Nisqually Glacier, from top of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis Measuring the ice flow in Nisqually Glacier Asahel Curtis * Miss Fay Fuller Exploring a Crevasse E. S.
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Curtis Fairy Falls, in Goat Lick Basin A. H. Barnes * Gibraltar and its Neighbors E. S. Curtis Crossing Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis * Reflection Lake and the Mountain E. S. Curtis Looking up from Cowlitz Chimneys to Gibraltar Asahel Curtis Divide of Paradise and Stevens Glaciers A. H. Barnes Old Moraine of Stevens Glacier Asahel Curtis Preparing for a
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night at Camp Muir Asahel Curtis The Bee Hive Asahel Curtis Mazama Club on Cowlitz Chimneys Kiser Photo Co. Climbing Cowlitz Cleaver to Gibraltar Asahel Curtis Mazamas rounding Gibraltar Rodney L. Glisan Under the walls of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis One of the bedrooms at Camp Muir A. H. Waite Perilous position on edge of a great crevasse Charles Bedford Climbing
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the "Chute," west side of Gibraltar Asahel Curtis Looking from top of Gibraltar to the summit A. H. Waite View south from Cowlitz Glacier to Mt. Adams Charles Bedford One of the modern craters Asahel Curtis , Steam Caves in one of the craters Asahel Curtis North Peak, or "Liberty Cap." A. W. Archer Goat Peaks, glacier summits in the
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Cascades Kiser Photo Co Ice-bound lake in Cowlitz Park S. C. Smith Crevasses in Cowlitz Glacier S. C. Smith Crossing a precipitous slope on White Glacier A. W. Archer * Climbing Goat Peaks in the Cascades S. C. Smith Looking up White Glacier to Little Tahoma Dr. F. A. Scott The Mountain seen from top of Cascade Range S. C.
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Smith Great Moraine built by Frying-Pan Glacier on "Goat Island" J. B. Flett Coming around Frying-Pan Glacier, below Little Tahoma Dr. F. A. Scott Sunrise above the clouds, Camp Curtis Asahel Curtis Looking up from Snipe Lake, below Interglacier Dr. F. A. Scott Passing a big Crevasse on Interglacier Asahel Curtis View North from Mt. Ruth to Grand Park J.
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B. Flett Camp on St. Elmo Pass, north side of the Wedge Asahel Curtis East Face of Mountain, with route to summit Asahel Curtis Admiral Peter Rainier First picture of the Mountain, from Vancouver's "Voyage" Climbers on St. Elmo Pass A. W. Archer St. Elmo Pass, from north side A. W. Archer Russell Peak, from Avalanche Camp Asahel Curtis Avalanche
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Camp Asahel Curtis Looking up Winthrop Glacier from Avalanche Camp Asahel Curtis Looking across Winthrop Glacier to Steamboat Prow Asahel Curtis View south from Sluiskin Mountains across Moraine Park Asahel Curtis Part of Spray Park George Caesar Climbing the sracs on Winthrop Glacier Dr. F. A. Scott Ice Pinnacles on the Carbon A. W. Archer Among the Ice Bridges of
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Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis Building Tacoma's electric power plant on the Nisqually () George V. Caesar Hydro-electric plant at Electron Cutting canal to divert White River to Lake Tapps Mystic Lake, in Moraine Park Asahel Curtis Glacier Table on Winthrop Glacier Asahel Curtis Carbon River and Mother Mountains Dr. F. A. Scott * Oldest and Youngest of the Climbers C.
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E. Cutter * P. B. Van Trump on his old Camp Ground E. S. Curtis Lower Spray Park, with Mother Mountains beyond Asahel Curtis * John Muir, President of the Sierra Club J. Edward B. Greene Coasting in Moraine Park Asahel Curtis Sunset on Crater Lake George V. Caesar * Amphitheatre of Carbon Glacier Asahel Curtis * Avalanche falling on
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Willis Wall Photo, Lea Bronson; Copyright, P. V. Caesar {p.} * Birth of Carbon River A. H. Waite The Mountaineers building trail on Carbon Moraine Asahel Curtis The Mountaineers lunching in a crevasse Asahel Curtis Looking southeast from Mt. Rose George V. Caesar Looking south from Mt. Rose, across Crater Lake George V. Caesar * Looking up North Mowich Valley
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Asahel Curtis * Spray Falls Asahel Curtis * A Rescue from a Crevasse E. S. Curtis Returning from the Summit Asahel Curtis * View across Moraine Park and Carbon Glacier to Mother Mountains Asahel Curtis Senecio Mrs. Alexander Thompson A -foot Fir, near Mineral Lake A. H. Barnes Indian Pipe J. B. Flett Floral Carpet in Indian Henry's Park A.
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H. Barnes Mosses and Ferns in the Forest Reserve Charles Bedford A Bank of White Heather Asahel Curtis Hellebore Mrs. Alexander Thompson Alpine Hemlock and Mountain Lilies Mrs. H. A. Towne Mountain Asters A. H. Barnes Studying the Phlox J. B. Flett Squaw Grass, or Mountain Lily Miss Jessie Kershaw Avalanche Lilies Asahel Curtis * Moraine Park, Sluiskin Mountains and
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Mystic Lake Asahel Curtis Sunrise in Indian Henry's A. H. Barnes Anemone Seed Pods Asahel Curtis Wind-swept Trees on North Side George V. Caesar Lupines Herbert W. Gleason * The Mountain, seen from Green River Hot Springs C. E. Cutter Glacial debris on lower Winthrop Asahel Curtis An Alpine Climbers' Cabin From Whymper's "Chamonix and Mt. Blanc" [Illustration: White River
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Canyon, from the terminal moraine of White Glacier. A fine example of glacial sculpture. The river seen in the distance is , feet below the plateau through which the glacier has carved this valley.] [Illustration {p.}: Telephoto view from near Electron, miles, showing vast summit plateau left when the Mountain blew its head off. . Crater Peak, built by the
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two small, modern craters. . South Peak, or Peak Success. . North Peak, or Liberty Cap. . North Tahoma Glacier. . Puyallup Glacier. . South Mowich Glacier. . North Mowich Glacier. . Snow Cap above Carbon Glacier. The summit peaks (, and ) form a triangle, each side of which is two miles or more in length.] [Illustration {p.}: View
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of the Mountain from Fox Island, forty-two miles northwest, with part of Puget Sound in the foreground.] {p.} THE MOUNTAIN SPEAKS. I am Tacoma, Monarch of the Coast! Uncounted ages heaped my shining snows; The sun by day, by night the starry host, Crown me with splendor; every breeze that blows Wafts incense to my altars; never wanes The glory
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my adoring children boast, For one with sun and sea Tacoma reigns. Tacoma--the Great Snow Peak--mighty name My dusky tribes revered when time was young! Their god was I in avalanche and flame-- In grove and mead and songs my rivers sung, As blithe they ran to make the valleys fair-- Their Shrine of Peace where no avenger came To
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vex Tacoma, lord of earth and air. Ah! when at morn above the mists I tower And see my cities gleam by slope and strand, What joy have I in this transcendent dower-- The strength and beauty of my sea-girt land That holds the future royally in fee! And lest some danger, undescried, should lower, From my far height I
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watch o'er wave and lea. And cloudless eves when calm in heaven I rest, All rose-bloom with a glow of paradise, And through my firs the balm-wind of the west, Blown over ocean islands, softly sighs, While placid lakes my radiant image frame-- And know my worshippers, in loving quest, Will mark my brow and fond lips breathe my name:
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Enraptured from my valleys to my snows, I charm my glow to crimson--soothe to gray; And when the encircling shadow deeper grows, Poise, a lone cloud, beside the starry way. Then, while my realm is hushed from steep to shore, I yield my grandeur to divine repose, And know Tacoma reigns forevermore! South Framingham, Mass. March, . Edna Dean Proctor
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[Illustration {p.}: Copyright, , By Romans Photographic Co. The most kingly of American mountains, seen from beautiful Lake Washington, Seattle, distance sixty miles.] {p.} [Illustration: A party of climbers on Winthrop Glacier.] THE MOUNTAIN THAT WAS "GOD." I. MOUNT "BIG SNOW" AND INDIAN TRADITION. Long hours we toiled up through the solemn wood, Beneath moss-banners stretched from tree to tree;
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At last upon a barren hill we stood, And, lo, above loomed Majesty. --_Herbert Bashford: "Mount Rainier."_ The great Mountain fascinates us by its diversity. It is an inspiration and yet a riddle to all who are drawn to the mysterious or who love the sublime. Every view which the breaking clouds vouchsafe to us is a surprise. It never
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becomes commonplace, save to the commonplace. [Illustration: Ice Terraces on South Tahoma Glacier. These vast steps are often seen where a glacier moves down a steep and irregular slope.] Old Virgil's gibe at mankind's better half--"varium et mutabile semper femina"--might have been written of this fickle shape of rock and ice and vapor. One tries vainly, year after year, to
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define it in his own mind. The daily, hourly change of distance, size and aspect, tricks which the Indian's mountain {p.} god plays with the puny creatures swarming more and more about his foot; his days of frank neighborliness, his swift transformations from smiles to anger, his fits of sullenness and withdrawal, all baffle study. Even though we live at
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its base, it is impossible to say we know the Mountain, so various are the spells the sun casts over this huge dome which it is slowly chiseling away with its tools of ice, and which, in coming centuries, it will level with the plain. [Illustration: Mineral Lake and the Mountain. Distance, eighteen miles.] We are lovers of the water
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as well as the hills, out here in this northwestern corner of the Republic. We spend many days--and should spend more--in cruising among the hidden bays and park-like islands which make Puget Sound the most interesting body of water in America. We grow a bit boastful about the lakes that cluster around our cities. Nowhere better than from sea level,
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or from the lakes raised but little above it, does one realize the bulk, the dominance, and yet the grace, of this noble peak. Its impressiveness, indeed, arises in part from the fact that it is one of the few great volcanic mountains whose entire height may be seen from tide level. Many of us can recall views of it
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from Lake Washington at Seattle, or from American or Spanaway Lake at Tacoma, or from the Sound, which will always haunt the memory. [Illustration: Storm King Peak and Mineral Lake, viewed from near Mineral Lake Inn.] Early one evening, last summer, I went with a friend to Point Defiance, Tacoma's fine park at the {p.} end of the promontory on
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which the city is built. We drank in refreshment from the picture there unrolled of broad channels and evergreen shores. As sunset approached, we watched the western clouds building range upon range of golden mountains above the black, Alp-like crags of the Olympics. Then, entering a small boat, we rowed far out northward into the Sound. Overhead, and about us,
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the scenes of the great panorama were swiftly shifted. The western sky became a conflagration. Twilight settled upon the bay. The lights of the distant town came out, one by one, and those of the big smelter, near by, grew brilliant. No Turner ever dreamed so glorious a composition of sunlight and shade. But we were held by one vision.
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[Illustration {p.}: View from Electron, showing west side of the mountain, with a vast intervening country of forested ranges and deep canyons.] {p.} [Illustration: Nisqually Canyon. ... "Where the mountain wall Is piled to heaven, and through the narrow rift Of the vast rocks, against whose rugged feet Beats the mad torrent with perpetual roar: Where noonday is as twilight,
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and the wind Comes burdened with the everlasting moan Of forests and far-off waterfalls."--Whittier.] Yonder, in the southeast, towering above the lower shadows of harbor and hills, rose a vast pyramid of soft flame. The setting sun had thrown a mantle of rose pink over the ice of the glaciers and the great cleavers of rock which buttress the mighty
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dome. The rounded summit was warm with beautiful orange light. Soon the colors upon its slope changed to deeper reds, and then to amethyst, and {p.} violet, and pearl gray. The sun-forsaken ranges below fell away to dark neutral tints. But the fires upon the crest burned on, deepening from gold to burnished copper, a colossal beacon flaming high against
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the sunset purple of the eastern skies. Finally, even this great light paled to a ghostly white, as the supporting foundation of mountain ridges dropped into the darkness of the long northern twilight, until the snowy summit seemed no longer a part of earth, but a veil of uncanny mist, caught up by the winds from the Pacific and floating
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far above the black sky-line of the solid Cascades, that * * * heaven-sustaining bulwark, reared Between the East and West. [Illustration {p.}: Copyright, , By A. H. Waite. North Peak, or Liberty Cap, and South Mowich Glacier in storm, seen from an altitude of , feet, on ridge between South Mowich and Puyallup Glaciers. The glacier, , feet below,
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is nearly half a mile wide. Note the tremendous wall of ice in which it ends.] [Illustration: Copyright, , By A. H. Waite. Basaltic Columns, part of the "Colonnade" on south side of South Mowich Glacier. These curious six-sided columns of volcanic rock are similar to those bordering the Cowlitz Glacier.] [Illustration: Mountain Goat, an accidental snap-shot of the fleet
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and wary Mazama; godfather of the famous Portland mountain club.] And when even that apparition had faded, and the Mountain appeared only as an uncertain bulk shadowed upon the night, then came the miracle. Gradually, the east, beyond the great hills, showed a faint silver glow. Silhouetted against this dim background, the profile of the peak grew definite. With no
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other warning, suddenly from its summit the full moon shot forth, huge, majestic and gracious, flooding the lower world with brightness. Clouds and mountain ranges alike shone with its glory. But the great peak loomed blacker and more sullen. Only, on its head, the wide crown of snow gleamed white under the cold rays of the moon. [Illustration {p.}: West
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Side of the summit, seen from Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually, on road to Longmire Springs. Note the whiteness of the glacial water. This stream is fed by the united Tahoma glaciers. See pp. and .] {p.} [Illustration: Iron and Copper Mountains (right) in Indian Henry's. The top of Pyramid Peak shows in the saddle beyond with Peak Success towering
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far above.] No wonder that this mountain of changing moods, overtopping every other eminence in the Northwest, answered the idea of God to the simple, imaginative mind of the Indians who hunted in the forest on its slopes or fished in the waters of Whulge that ebbed and flowed at its base. Primitive peoples in every land have deified superlative
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manifestations of nature--the sun, the wind, great rivers, and waterfalls, the high mountains. By all the tribes within sight of its summit, this pre-eminent peak, variously called by them Tacoma (Tach-homa), Tahoma or Tacob, as who should say "The Great Snow," was deemed a power to be feared and conciliated. Even when the missionaries taught them a better faith, they
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continued to hold the Mountain in superstitious reverence--an awe that still has power to silence their "civilized" and very unromantic descendants. [Illustration: Cutting steps up Paradise Glacier.] The Puget Sound tribes, with the Yakimas, Klickitats and others living just beyond the Cascades, had substantially the same language and beliefs, though differing much in physical and mental type. {p.} East of
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the range, they lived by the chase. They were great horsemen and famous runners, a breed of lithe, upstanding, competent men, as keen of wit as they were stately in appearance. These were "the noble Red Men" of tradition. Fennimore Cooper might have found many a hero worthy of his pen among the savages inhabiting the fertile valley of the
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Columbia, which we now call the Inland Empire. But here on the Coast were the "Digger" tribes, who subsisted chiefly by spearing salmon and digging clams. Their stooped figures, flat faces, downcast eyes and low mentality reflected the life they led. Contrasting their heavy bodies with their feeble legs, which grew shorter with disuse, a Tacoma humorist last summer gravely
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proved to a party of English visitors that in a few generations more, had not the white man seized their fishing grounds, the squatting Siwashes would have had no legs at all! [Illustration: Great Crag on the ridge separating the North and South Tahoma Glaciers, with Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually visible several miles below. This rock is seen right
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of center on page .] [Illustration: The Marmot, whose shrill whistle is often heard among the crags.] Stolid and uninspired as he seemed to the whites, the Indian of the Sound was not without his touch of poetry. He had that imaginative curiosity which marked the native {p.} American everywhere. He was ever peering into the causes of things, and
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seeing the supernatural in the world around him.[] [Footnote : Among those who have studied the Puget Sound Indians most sympathetically is the Rev. Mr. Hylebos of Tacoma. He came to the Northwest in , when the census gave Tacoma a white population of seventy-three. In those days, says Father Hylebos, the Tacoma tideflats, now filled in for mills and
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railway terminals, were covered each autumn with the canoes of Indians spearing salmon. It was no uncommon thing to see at one time on Commencement Bay , fishermen. This veteran worker among the "Siwashes" (French "_sauvages_") first told me the myths that hallowed the Mountain for every native, and the true meaning of the beautiful Indian word "Tacoma." He knew
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well all the leaders of the generation before the railways: Sluiskin, the Klickitat chief who guided Stevens and Van Trump up to the snow-line in ; Stanup, chief of the Puyallups; Kiskax, head of the Cowlitz tribe; Angeline, the famous daughter of Chief Seattle, godfather of the city of that name, and many others.] [Illustration {p.}: View from Beljica, showing
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the deeply indented west side of the Mountain. Beginning at extreme right, the glaciers are, successively: Kautz, South Tahoma, North Tahoma and Puyallup. In the left foreground is the canyon of Tahoma Fork of the Nisqually, which is fed by the Tahoma glaciers.] [Illustration: Copyright, , By E. S. Curtis. Mountain Pine, one of the last outposts of the forest
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below the line of eternal snow.] To the great Snow Mountain the Indians made frequent pilgrimages, for they thought this king of the primeval wild a divinity to be reckoned with. They dreaded its anger, seen in the storms about its head, the thunder of its avalanches, and the volcanic flashes of which their traditions told. They courted its favor,
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symbolized in the wild flowers that bloomed on its slope, and the tall grass that fed the mowich, or deer. [Illustration: Copyright, , By E. S. Curtis. Mount Wow, or Goat Mountain, above Mesler's.] As they ascended the vast ridges, the grandeur about them spoke of the mountain god. There were groves of trees he must have planted, so orderly
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were they set out. The lakes of the lofty valleys seemed calmer than those on the prairies below, the foliage brighter, the ferns taller and more graceful. The song of the waterfalls here was sweeter than the music of the tamahnawas men, their Indian sorcerers. The many small meadows close to the snow-line, carpeted in deepest green and spread with
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flowers, were the gardens of the divinity, tended by his superhuman agents. Strange as it may seem, the nature-worship of the silent Red Man had many points in common with that of the imaginative, volatile Greek, who {p.} peopled his mountains with immortals; and no wood in ancient Greece was ever thronged with hamadryads more real than the little gods
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whom the Indian saw in the forests watered by streams from Tacoma's glaciers. [Illustration {p.}: Rounded Cone of Mt. St. Helens, seen from Indian Henry's, forty-five miles away.] [Illustration: View northward in early summer from Eagle Peak, at western end of the Tatoosh. Gibraltar Rock and Little Tahoma break the eastern sky-line. On the extreme right lies Paradise Valley, still
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deep in snow, with the canyon of Paradise River below it. Next is seen the Nisqually Glacier, with Nisqually River issuing from its snout. Then come Van Trump Glacier (an "interglacier"), and the big Kautz Glacier, dropping into its own deep canyon. Beyond the Kautz, Pyramid Peak and Iron and Copper Mountains rise on the Indian Henry plateau. The Tahoma
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Glaciers close the view westward.] [Illustration {p.}: Copyright, , By Pillsbury Picture Co.] [Illustration: Copyright, , By Linkletter Photo. CO. Eagle Peak (Indian name, Simlayshe) at west end of the Tatoosh. Altitude about , feet. A pony trail three miles long leads up from the Inn.] Countless snows had fallen since the mountain god created and beautified this home of
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his, when one day he grew angry, and in his wrath showed terrible tongues of fire. Thus he ignited an immense fir forest on the south side of the peak. When his anger subsided, the flames passed, and the land they left bare became covered with blue grass and wild flowers--a great sunny country where, before, the dark forest had
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been. Borrowing a word from the French _coureurs des bois_ who came with the Hudson's Bay Company, the later Indians sometimes called this region "the Big Brul"; and to this day some Americans call it the same. But for the Big Brul the Indians had, from ancient times, another name, connected with their ideas of religion. It was their Saghalie
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Illahe, the "Land of Peace," Heaven. Our name, "Paradise Valley," {p.} given to the beautiful open vale on the south slope of the Mountain, is an English equivalent. Here was the same bar to violence which religion has erected in many lands. The Hebrews had their "Cities of Refuge." The pagan ancients made every altar an asylum. Medival Christianity constituted
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all its churches sanctuaries. Thus, in lawless ages, the hand of vengeance was stayed, and the weak were protected. [Illustration: Exploring an Ice Cave, Paradise Glacier.] So, too, the Indian tradition ordained this home of rest and refuge. Indian custom was an eye for an eye, but on gaining this mountain haven the pursued was safe from his pursuer, the
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slayer might not be touched by his victim's kindred. When he crossed its border, the warrior laid down his arms. Criminals and cowards, too, were often sent here by the chiefs to do penance. [Illustration: Junction of North and South Tahoma Glaciers, viewed from Indian Henry's. The main ice stream thus formed, seen in the foreground, feeds Tahoma Fork of
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the Nisqually River. The Northern part of North Tahoma Glacier, seen in the distance beyond the wedge of rocks, feeds a tributary of the Puyallup.] The mountain divinity, with his under-gods, figures in much of the Siwash {p.} folklore, and the "Land of Peace" is often heard of. It is through such typical Indian legends as that of Miser, the
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greedy hiaqua hunter, that we learn how large a place the great Mountain filled in the thought of the aborigines. [Illustration: Anemones, a familiar mountain flower.] This myth also explains why no Red Man could ever be persuaded to an ascent beyond the snow line. As to the Greek, so to the Indian the great peaks were sacred. The flames
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of an eruption, the fall of an avalanche, told of the wrath of the mountain god. The clouds that wrapped the summit of Tacoma spelled mystery and peril. Even so shrewd and intelligent a Siwash as Sluiskin, with all his keenness for "Boston chikamin," the white man's money, refused to accompany Stevens and Van Trump in the first ascent, in
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; indeed, he gave them up as doomed, and bewailed their certain fate when they defied the Mountain's wrath and started for the summit in spite of his warnings. [Illustration {p.}: Copyright , A. H. WAITE. North Tahoma Glacier, flowing out of the huge cleft in the west side, between North and South Peaks. A great rock wedge splits the
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glacier, turning part of the ice stream northward into the Puyallup, while the other part, on the right pours down to join South Tahoma Glacier. Note how the promontory of rock in the foreground has been rounded and polished by the ice. Compare this view with pages and .] [Illustration {p.}: Snow Lake in Indian Henry's, surrounded by Alpine firs,
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which grow close to the snow line. Elevation about , feet.] The hero of the Hiaqua Myth is the Indian {p.} Rip Van Winkle.[] He dwelt at the foot of Tacoma, and, like Irving's worthy, he was a mighty hunter and fisherman. He knew the secret pools where fish could always be found, and the dark places in the forest,
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where the elk hid when snows were deepest. But for these things Miser cared not. His lust was all for hiaqua, the Indian shell money. [Footnote : This legend is well told in "Myths and Legends of the Pacific Northwest," a delightful book by Katharine B. Judson of the Seattle Public Library (Chicago, A. C. McClurg & Co.). See also
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Prof. W. D. Lyman's papers in "Mazama" Vol. , and "The Mountaineer," Vol. ; and Winthrop's "Canoe and Saddle."] [Illustration: A fair Mountaineer at the timber line. Note her equipment, including shoe calks.] Now, Miser's totem was Moosmoos, the elk divinity. So Miser tried, even while hunting the elk, to talk with them, in order to learn where hiaqua might
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be found. One night Moosmoos persuaded him that on top of the Mountain he would find great store of it. Making him two elk-horn picks, and filling his ikta with dried salmon and kinnikinnick, he climbed in two nights and a day to the summit. Here he found three big rocks, one like a camas root, one like a salmon's
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head, the third like his friendly Moosmoos. Miser saw that Moosmoos had told him truly. [Illustration {p.}: View of Indian Henry's Hunting Ground from a point on South Tahoma Glacier, looking across to Copper and Iron Mountains, with Mt. St. Helens above the clouds far beyond. This famous upland plateau or "park" gets its name from the fact that it
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