qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
14,919 | I bought a set of 5 [stepper motors](https://a.aliexpress.com/_mL7Tt7b) from Trianglelab's official Aliexpress shop.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XZDW8.jpg)
Only one of these motors was given any kind of protective bubble wrap for shipping. The contents of the package shifted in transit and several of the motors got banged up with two of them suffering visible damage to their wire insulation.
I contacted Trianglelabs and was told to fix it myself for \$0.03 with a wire or to add some tape. This repair advice was accompanied with the weightiest assumptions of my personal expertise that I have ever received.
At this point I'm not planning to keep them if this is how the company does business; shaving pennies on shipping and telling the buyer to fix it themselves.
But all of this brought up an interesting question. How can I reliably test my stepper motors for basic functionality and measured compliance with the rated specifications? | [
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"answer_id": 14941,
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"text": "For the AliExpress part, open a dispute and attach pictures to the dispute and ask for a partial, reasonable di... | 2020/12/01 | [
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14,926 | This question is related to:
[How to set Z-probe boundary limits in firmware when using automatic bed leveling?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8153/how-to-set-z-probe-boundary-limits-in-firmware-when-using-automatic-bed-leveling)
I am trying to figure out how to set UBL In Marlin to cover as much bed as possible.
So My bed is size of 300x255 mm
`#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -34, -1, -2 }`
My Probe can physically cover 255 mm (whole Y) and 272 mm (of X size)
Let's give it a bit of margin of the 0Y -> 3 mm and from 0X -3 mm
So idea is to cover X from 3 mm to 269 mm and Y from 3 mm -> 252 mm
How should I set
`#define PROBING_MARGIN`
and
`#define MESH_INSET`
so it covers my bed and probes 100 points ?
I tried different options, most of the time it stops at 57/100 and printer HALTs.
Only setting I got it working with was:
`#define PROBING_MARGIN 30`
`#define MESH_INSET 50`
But that does not cover whole bed. I am struggling to understand how it's calculated.
Other settings I found was commented as below.
```
#if PROBE_SELECTED && !IS_KINEMATIC
// #define PROBING_MARGIN_LEFT PROBING_MARGIN
// #define PROBING_MARGIN_RIGHT PROBING_MARGIN
// #define PROBING_MARGIN_FRONT PROBING_MARGIN
// #define PROBING_MARGIN_BACK PROBING_MARGIN
#endif
```
Any suggestions ? | [
{
"answer_id": 14937,
"author": "0scar",
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"text": "`PROBING_MARGIN` and `MESH_INSET` make the effective probing area smaller, so if you want to have more area, you sho... | 2020/12/02 | [
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14,935 | For the purpose of cleaning, I need an aggressive solvent for cured or partially cured resin that will degrade resin down to its liquid state. I'm looking for one that would eat out specifically resin (I'm using regular Anycubic green resin) in a rapid fashion but would leave painted / metallic parts and screen of my 3D printer without damage. | [
{
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"text": "**Wear Gloves.**\n================\n\n### Returning is impossible\n\nResin does not just *harden*, [it **polymerizes... | 2020/12/04 | [
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14,952 | I am making a bed for my 3D printer. I have bought a silicon heater (31x31 cm) and I want to glue it to my custom aluminum bed. The tape that it had from factory was bad, so I removed it. I want to glue it to the aluminum and I don't know what type of adhesive to use, I was thinking gasket glue with silicon, but I think that it will have bad thermal conductivity. I found [this product, a silicon based, heat transferring paste](https://www.annapol.eu/product_info.php?products_id=137997&language=en), but I think that it will not stick good. What is a good adhesive for this purpose? | [
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"text": "Heat Transfer PAste will not work as a gluing agent. What you need is a high-temperature glue that bonds Aluminium an... | 2020/12/06 | [
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14,958 | Normally, I'm all fine with my printer and filament. But today I changed the filament for another brand and no matter what, it sticks to the nozzle so nothing comes to the bed and soon my nozzle is full of PLA... I use a sheet of paper for printer to level the bed at 0.1 mm. While leveling, I get the nozzle close enough to feel a bit of resistance from the paper while moving that sheet. Please help me... | [
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"answer_id": 14959,
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"text": "I believe the problem is not so much that the filament is sticking to the nozzle; it's that the filament is not s... | 2020/12/06 | [
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14,969 | I was looking at purchasing the Creality CR-X or another similar dual extruder (note, NOT dual nozzle) printer. I know it was designed to print two colors of the same filament, but is it able to print two different filaments?
I would be printing HIPS with ABS or PVA with PLA, so the two filaments would have very similar characteristics. It's ok if the printer doesn't know there's two different filaments, I can make it work by playing with the slicing settings. | [
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"text": "I believe the problem is not so much that the filament is sticking to the nozzle; it's that the filament is not s... | 2020/12/07 | [
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14,976 | So I've designed a few components in Fusion 360, but I'm kinda new to CAD. I did the tutorials AutoDesk have on YouTube, modelled an Arduino enclosure, a shampoo bottle, a lamp shade, etc. but what I'm doing now isn't as straightforward...
Before I used to create solids, but what I'm doing right now is essentially a flimsy plastic part, just a sheet of plastic with a rim, and some other "rib" features, and doing solids you have to make a sketch, and every line has to be doubled because of the thickness of the material.
Today I'm trying surfaces after being clued by the "Thicken" command, I figured maybe that was more efficient, but I'm not sure if I'm on the right track.
When I work with solids, I end-up with the option to *join* whatever new feature to the main body, but with surfaces I end-up with a bunch of bodies that are essentially supposed to be one, and I don't know how to join them together after.
I guess they could be put together in a "component", but I think components are more like a nut is a solid, a bolt is a solid, and a component is a nut and a bolt, not a bolt head, and a threaded cylinder... So the way the software is made right now at this point, while it clued me to use surfaces, now it's cluing me that there's something I'm missing, or nor doing right...
There's no CAD Stack Exchange site, and I realize this might be a bit specific, but the part is to be 3D printed, I bought a new 3D printer not long ago for a project, but I need to get better at CAD before I can make it...
Attached is a screenshot of what I worked on, it's paths that I've extruded to create surfaces (tall edges), thickened those surfaces to create bodies, patched some surfaces to fill areas, thickened those as well (ended-up with stair-shaped corners that I fixed somehow), then I cut some bodies from the bodies below to end-up with that you see now...
I think I'm on the right path with surfaces, but I don't think my workflow is right, and I was wondering if anyone could help me...
Right now, there's supposed to be two screw wells in two corners of the circle, essentially wells with a hole in the bottom for a thumbtack to go through, and there's going to be a cap to cap it off, it's kind of the same process as what I've done so far, but like I said, I don't think I'm doing it right...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BD7K6.jpg)
(source: [000webhostapp.com](https://forum-images-and-sharing.000webhostapp.com/img/2020-12-08.png)) | [
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"answer_id": 14981,
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"text": "Ok, let's go down the main two ways to a part, and in practice you usually use both to design for 3D printing. Only ... | 2020/12/08 | [
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14,977 | The art in question is <https://www.instagram.com/p/CIfsO2ZD7Rj/> . I Think the concept artist, Jean Giraud, is dead. | [
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"text": "While better fitted to our friends at [law.SE](https://law.stackexchange.com/questions/tagged/copyright), the genera... | 2020/12/08 | [
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14,986 | Why does the Ender 3 only have 3 limit switches instead of 6?
How does it handle crashes on other sides?
Is it worth adding them with a new mainboard? | [
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14,996 | Recently I started looking on pressure advance and how it works and I'm a bit confused about where it is usually implemented.
My Idea of 3D printer was that its firmware is fairly dumb and only replays GCode, not knowing anything about the object being printed, material used, or even the printer itself.
But with pressure advance this whole thing changes and now the firmware needs to know the linear advance factor which combines information about the filament and filament path used. In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost independently determined by the firmware.
Why is this? Is there a reason that slicer (or a post-processor) can't compute all this and directly store the needed extruder axis movements in the GCode?
Does the printer have some additional information that the slicer is missing? | [
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"answer_id": 14997,
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"text": "> \n> In addition the E axis is no longer controlled directly by the GCode, but it's motion is almost indepe... | 2020/12/09 | [
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14,999 | Is there any research into use of thermoelectric cooler along with part cooling fan to get quicker cooling without strong air currents that apply pressure to the still-soft material? I experimented with custom fan ducts in the past trying to get better cooling and avoid warping for printing thin layers of PLA at high speeds, but found that the concentrated stream of air blowing on the part actually deformed it before it could cool. At the time I wondered if using significantly colder air, at a much lower flow, would work better. But every time I've searched for thermoelectric (peltier) coolers with 3D printing, I've found results that are about cooling motors or the heatbreak (especially inside heated enclosures), nothing about part cooling.
If there is no research on this and I want to experiment myself at some point, are there constraints I should consider for how to mount it (in my case on an Ender 3, but also in general)? Perhaps on a separate intake duct before the cooling fan? Or between the cooling fan and hotend assembly to let the waste heat dump into the assembly that the hotend fan is already cooling? | [
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"answer_id": 15001,
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"text": "It is true that if you try to do bridges with a very hot filament the cooling air will deform or push away the hot fi... | 2020/12/09 | [
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15,016 | I would like to log each line of G-code to the serial port as it is processed.
**Steps to achieve**:
* the printer reads a file from the SD card
* each line it reads will be serial logged (this I can't figure out)
* those lines can then read via the serial monitor on a laptop
So by the end of the print, on my laptop I would have the reconstructed G-code file (plus whatever other logs the printer outputs).
The printer runs the Prusa Firmware. Ideally I would like to achieve the logging from altering the firmware rather than adding an extra plugin/server (For understanding and experimenting purposes).
**What I tried**
I have looked in code and found [the print functions](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/Marlin.h#L99) and examples of them in use in the code. This line is the "[command, which is to be excecuted right now](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cmdqueue.h#L43)", but I think that would be the just one command not the full line.
The [cardreader](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp) or [SdBaseFile](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/SdBaseFile.cpp) are where I would expect a G-code line to be read such that I could add a print statement after it but I did not see where.
Would it be as easy as setting this [card.logging](https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware/blob/MK3/Firmware/cardreader.cpp#L30) bool to true?
I imagine this is quite an easy thing to do and that I have just overcomplicated it by trying to understand the firmware. Any advice would be great! | [
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15,022 | So I'm making my friend a Monado sword replica and I've printed the handle in 2 pieces as to fill it with electronics and then superglue the 2 halves together.
I seem to have put too much on and it's leaked out and spread as shown in the picture..
Does anyone know how to get the dried glue off?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h0LGa.jpg)
Thanks,
(PS. The glue is called "NO NONSENSE SUPERGLUE") | [
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"answer_id": 15024,
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"text": "I've used Acetone before. However that said I've not had the need to remove it from PLA. Not sure how PLA reacts ... | 2020/12/12 | [
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15,023 | I have a problem most likely very similar to some reported by other users: extruder stepper is visually skipping a step from time to time. It rapidly rotates in the direction opposite to the one it is supposed to rotate.
I noticed the following:
* The extruder stepper jumps totally randomly - there is nothing specific in the pattern printed, position etc.
* Stepper jumps more often on the infill, rarely on the walls.
Details about print:
* PLA (Devil Design - various colors, they doesn't matter)
* Filament guide installed on top, but not yet before the extruder (it is printing right now, I'm waiting for the ball bearings too)
* Filament mounted on the top - in the place defined by Creality
* Extruder is already replaced with the aluminium one
* The mainboard is SKR E3 mini V2 (replaced recently)
* 95% flow set in Cura
* Printing on glass, leveled bed (the jumping occurs on all layers, not only first)
* 215 °C hotend temperature, 60 °C bed temperature
* Stepper motor current settings (from Marlin menu): 580 for X, Y & Z, 650 for E1
Other observations:
* What's interesting is that extruder motor jumps even if I manually unwind some filament, so that the only force that it has to overcome is only pushing filament into the head.
* I did a quick DIY wooden spool holder, so that the filament was fed almost horizontally. This actually seemed to make things worse - stepper jumped more often. I moved spool to the top again and it reduced jumping a little.
* Prints are done beatifully (after changing the motherboard, that is) - no lost lines or layers, walls connected with infill, perfect first layer etc.
What may be the cause of stepper motor jumping? How can I solve it? Does it pose a threat to the motor or stepper? I need to print filament guide and spool holder with ball bearings, so that I can minimize force required by the extruder motor, but then the stepper will probably jump during the prints. I already damaged the original mainboard because of stuck filament, I don't want to destroy another one.
---
This is how regular extruder retraction looks:
(10 seconds)
This is how stepper skipping looks:
(13 seconds)
---
Today I replaced the whole heat block (radiator, heater, thermistor and nozzle) to a new one (original, for now) and motor stopped skipping - at least on the calibration cube. I will see, how will it perform on more complex prints.
However, even having the prior one in hands, I couldn't find the reason, why motor was skipping - other than the fact, that I couldn't extract the bowden tube from the radiator (so maybe some filament indeed was dripping inside?) | [
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"text": "I've used Acetone before. However that said I've not had the need to remove it from PLA. Not sure how PLA reacts ... | 2020/12/12 | [
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15,034 | I am new to 3D printing and just purchased an Ender 3 V2 about two weeks ago. Since I've got it, I've been having trouble leveling the bed. I've tried watching videos, but they don't say how much friction on the paper is good or bad. I have even tried foil, playing cards, and a business card but still can't tell if it's good enough or not. Then when I would try printing calibration squares and adjust as it prints, but when it prints all looks good when printing the outside ring, but when it gets to the square parts there are bumps on the print from the nozzle being too close. Also when I seem to have corner perfect, when it gets to the center it's too close to the nozzle and doesn't even print. I'm using the stock glass bed so I'm not sure if that could be the issue. This is getting frustrating as I really want to start printing. And I want to save money for other parts and try avoiding purchasing a BL Touch if I don't need to. Am I doing something wrong? How can I get this resolved?
Forgot to mention, I upgraded the springs to these yellow ones on Amazon. | [
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"text": "Don't worry too much about it. If you print with a first layer height of 0.3mm, bed levelling only needs to be approx... | 2020/12/13 | [
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15,051 | I'm trying to print [a gear for a robovac deal](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4461654).
The issue I'm having is with gaps between the walls of the top part of the gear. It needs to have the corners filled to provide stability or else the tabs easily snap. I've tried adjusting the nozzle size, line width, filter gaps and print thin walls but seems to slice with variations on the same issue. Is this a Cura issue? Is there anyway to slice and print this to fill those gaps?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0g7zy.png) | [
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"text": "The problem isn't Cura, rather its the precision of the 3D model. If parts of the model is smaller than the ... | 2020/12/16 | [
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15,054 | Before I start, I'll give you my setup:
* Ender 3 Pro
* Marlin 2.0.7.2
* Material/Nozzle: PETG 0.4 mm @ 215 °C
* Bed: Glass @ 80 °C
* Default printing speed: 70 mm/s
* Standard part cooling fan
Since I've updated the Marlin FW on from factory default to 2.0.7.2, my printer stops printing and gives out an thermal runaway exception message. Note that, after the firmware flash, I performed a PID-Tune multiple times.
The problem is absolutely repeatable and happens always on beginning of layer 2 (more precisely: 40 seconds after beginning layer 2). Changing PID values doesn't change anything to the moment of the error occurring.
I managed to run it longer by repeatedly dropping the temperature set-point and making a photo of the temperature plot. First photo is right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C. Second is when the temperature started rising slowly again.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b67wW.jpg "Right after the initial drop from 215 to 205 °C")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BNF1j.jpg "Temperature starting to rise slowly")
After this temperature drop, the hotend temperature seemed to be much less stable and reached only 205 °C.
At Layer 12, the same thing happened again. But dropping the temperature far too low for PETG and having the "same" issue again, making me stop the print.
This problem is pretty urgent and I haven't found any suitable solution by now. Do you have any ideas of what may cause this trouble? New heaters and thermistors are on their way right now. But I fear that this is not a hardware problem since none of the components are damaged and dysfunctional, nor the moment of failure is random. | [
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"text": "It turned out, it was a faulty heater, that wasn't able to reach and maintain temperatures over 195 °C in a stable ... | 2020/12/17 | [
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15,066 | While printing a [paint rack from thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3932302) I keep getting jams. Other prints (shorter) work fine. Can anyone give me a clue?
Here's a [video of the printer](https://photos.app.goo.gl/PQuJwqNdYWSMTiwm6)
I thought it was heat creep so I increased the speed and decreased the hot end temperature. It generally prints for several hours then jams. | [
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"text": "When I started printing ABS with my Prusa i3 MK3 MMU2+ printer, I started experiencing jams on some longer prints, whi... | 2020/12/20 | [
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15,077 | Odd question for everyone, hope it has a distinct answer. I'm often printing bone models derived from CT scans (I work in a hospital) and they often have something on the order of 5 million faces +/-. Now, I know from experience that I can decimate them down to 10-20 % of the original faces and they still pretty much look the same, so I often do that to help my computer run faster. I also know that "GrabCad" (the software for my j750) can handle these face counts and the limiting factor is more so the actual physical print resolution. But it got me curious:
Lets say I was using other software. Lets say more universally available software such as PrusaSlicer or Cura. Now obviously if I'm printing on a Prusa I probably don't need to worry about capturing all the detail from 5 million faces because I doubt I can print that intricately, but lets take the actual printing out of it (and I guess even before it gets to the G-code stage).
Can Cura/PrusaSlicer handle that many faces? Is there a limit? Do files get "dumbed down" at all when they come in? What I'm trying to ask exactly is outside of the G-code and actual printing step, can the software side of things handle something with 10 million faces? 20 million? Is there a limit? | [
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15,079 | I recently upgraded my Creality Ender 5 with an SKR Mini E3 V2.0 running Marlin 2.0.7.2. The printer has also been modified with an all-metal hotend and a direct drive conversion kit that uses the extruder stepper motor. In test prints of the XYZ calibration cube, I have found that the edges of the cube are rounded over. After some research, it appears this is due to either the acceleration/jerk settings or the junction deviation settings.
The issue now comes in that no matter what setting I change, the prints do not change. Currently in the Marlin firmware, I found that the Classic Jerk is disabled in Configuration.h line ~786. The default JUNCTION\_DEVIATION\_MM is 0.013. Since Classic Jerk is disabled, Junction Deviation shows up in the menu under Menu --> Configuration --> Advanced Settings. I printed 4 cubes for 4 different Junction Deviation settings: 0.013, 0.075, 0.130, 0.300. All cubes have the same characteristic over-corrected corner with no visible changes (Picture below)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eue3y.jpg)
My questions are:
* Why aren't the prints being affected by changing the Junction Deviation setting via the menu? The Junction Deviation setting is stored in memory using Menu --> Configuration --> Store Settings and I have confirmed the values remain in memory after cycling the printer.
* If Classic Jerk is disabled in Marlin firmware, would an M205 X[Jerk] Y[Jerk] Z[Jerk] command before a print enable Classic Jerk for that print?
* What happens if an M205 command is sent that sets XYZ as well as J? (e.g. M205 X[Jerk] Y[Jerk] Z[Jerk] J[Dev]). Would it ignore Classic Jerk values if Classic Jerk is disabled in firmware?
I have read through the following posts already
* [Setting Junction Deviation in firmware has no effect](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/11261/setting-junction-deviation-in-firmware-has-no-effect)
* <https://reprap.org/forum/read.php?1,739819>
* <https://blog.kyneticcnc.com/2018/10/computing-junction-deviation-for-marlin.html>
* <https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/dx8bd/here_is_why_you_should_disable_junction_deviation/>
My next steps:
* Re-enable Classic Jerk in Marlin and see if the print behavior changes
* Other? | [
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15,084 | I am planning to upgrade my printer with a second extruder. Since my printer is a Tronxy X8 it's frame is not exactly vibration resistant, so I'd like to keep the print head weight down. At the same time I really don't want a Bowden setup.
I came up with the idea of making a dual extruder driven only by a single stepper with a gear shift setup that switches the stepper between the two extruders.
The idea seems simple, but googleing didn't turn up anything else.
Is there anything I am missing that would would make such a setup unfeasible?
Did anyone else build something like that?
A clarification, because it came up in an answer:
What I imagine is this:
One stepper motor is connected to a gear shift system that is either connected to Extruder A or Extruder B, depending on the gear. When shifting it just connects the stepper motor to the other extruder. So it is still similar to a regular direct driven dual extruder system, except that it only uses a single stepper to drive two extruders, each connected to it's own hotend. | [
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15,095 | High temperature PTFE tape is rated up to 550°F, which is 288°C. I'm wondering if it would be useful for components on the hot end to prevent oozing. Has anyone tried it? | [
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"text": "You'll need a custom firmware.\n\nYur custom firmware will have to react to the \"Change extruder\" command differen... | 2020/12/23 | [
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15,104 | I'm getting weak prints on Ender 3 Pro with Cura after Cura upgrade.
Prints on my Ender 3 Pro have been good until I was forced to update Cura due to having to update the OS on my laptop. Now my prints are weak even after using Infill 50 % from 20 %.
Upgraded to Cura 4.8.0.
I noticed that it seems my print settings were saved from the older non-working Cura version. I went ahead and printed an XYZ Cube with the same settings from my older Cura version where prints were printing fine/acceptable. It fell apart as I tried to lift it off the build plate so I printed a second XYZ Cube with 50 % infill from previous 20 % pictured below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2hnqO.jpg)
The above print is noticeably weak, with layers not bonding or maybe something else.
Below is an image of when an XYZ Cube printed with my older Cura version. It is not perfect but it is much stronger without visible separation and actually noticeably heavier than the grey XYZ Cube printed with Cura 4.8.0 :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z0Mon.jpg)
The green and the grey 1.75 mm PLA I use and shown in the photos are different brands but both printed very much the same with the older Cura version.
I'm thinking this is an issue with the new Cura 4.8.0 that I'm using as nothing about my printing has changed besides the new Cura version assuming that my original print settings were saved which it looks to me that they were.
Has anyone had a similar issue or is there a known fix for this?
---
*Posting settings pics below:*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wkGz5.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lnXOD.png)
12/28/20 :
Went to <https://www.chepclub.com/cura-profiles.html> and noted that they mention to use the Cura 4.8.0 Built-In profiles. Below are two pics of test print while using Cura 4.8.0's Built-In Standard Profile :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e2Dd0.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/R0i8m.jpg)
12/29/20 :
Screenshot showing Nozzle Diameter (still using the 0.4 mm stock nozzle) & Flow @ 100 %. Please let me know if these are not the correct settings you asked me to look in :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cq4yH.png) | [
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"text": "There are three settings you will want to check in Cura to help with this.\n\n**Nozzle Diameter**\n\nCheck your \... | 2020/12/24 | [
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15,127 | I haven't ran into the issue yet, but I am sort of expecting it to here soon towards the end of my print. Actually, I am not even sure if it should be something that I should be worried about or not.
Basically I have some overhang on a helmet piece (it's a vent piece) and I see that there is a 90 % degree overhang. It doesn't look too big but just curious if this should be something that I should be worried about. I forgot to add support in the vent, it's my own fault and I'm definitely going to fix this in my next print for sure, but do you all think it will fail if I keep the current print going?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r3LV5.png "Screenshot showing unsupported overhanging vent")
I use Cura, Meshmaker, and I have an Ender 3 printer.
I'm just getting started with 3D printing so I wasn't sure if I should be concerned or not. | [
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"text": "That depends on various parameters if an overhang will work or not, material, hotend temperature, speed, cooling, siz... | 2020/12/28 | [
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15,130 | In OpenSCAD, I am trying to make a linear\_extrude on a shape imported from an svg. The svg file contains multiple path. I would like to scale each path separately. I have tried the following code, but the whole import is considered a single shape resulting in the image below.
```
linear_extrude(height = 5, center = true, scale=1.2)
import(file = "xxx.svg", center = true, dpi = 96);
```
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cg1Rq.png)
How can I have each of the letters to have 'its own pyramid' ?
I know I could create one SVG per letter. But for simplicity sake I would like to have only one SVG file, as I want to create much more complex motives in the future. My final goal is to create stamps from SVG drawings.
Edit:
Alternative tried after Mucc's comment (same result):
```
module pyramidChildren(height){
for ( i= [0:1:$children-1])
linear_extrude(height = height, scale=1.5)
children(i);
}
pyramidChildren(5)
import(file = "xxx.svg", center = true, dpi = 96);
```
I have tried to use the basic svg (multiple paths) and also to group each path (with only itself) without changes in the result. | [
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15,131 | I am very new in the 3D printing scene.
After a lot of searching for my specific problem (and didn't find any answers, of course) I decided to reach out.
I bought a Creality Ender 3 Pro in November and after a few days of lovely prints
I decided to upgrade the printer with a glass bed and "Aluminum Dual Gear Pulley Dual Drive Extruder Kit".
The Problem, as you might expected already, is with the installation of the dual gear extruder. I have watched a dozen of YouTube videos, and all of them have something I don't – a screw in the stock gold gear on the extruder motor.
How can I install the Aluminum Dual Gear Pulley Dual Drive Extruder Kit if I take the gear out? Should I try remove it with force?
Please if someone has come across the same situation, that there isn’t a screw In the stock gear on the extruder motor and mange to take it out, please tell me.
I'm adding a picture so you understand what I mean.
 | [
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15,136 | I assume SLA printing only works on Earth and upright.
But would fused-filament printer (e.g. Prosi Mk3) work in zero gravity? What about upside down or sideways? If not, could it be modified to work in other orientations? Have there been any demonstrations of it? | [
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15,159 | I have a Monoprice Maker Select Plus (Wanhao Duplicator i3 clone) and I'm having issued with the top layer of my prints. The bottom surface and the sides always come out perfect but my top layer is left with gaps in it. I have tried adjusting the print temperature, flow rate, print speed and layer height all with no success. I use Cura for my slicing software. If anyone knows how to help it'd be much appreciated
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZFpf.jpg "Closeup of failed print")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/45rzs.jpg "Failed print") | [
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"text": "This is probably caused by too few top layers in combination with a too low infill percentage. Increase skin layers ... | 2020/12/30 | [
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15,161 | I just got a new Ender3 version two for Christmas and was very excited to use it so I put it together and used the sample filament that came with the printer and everything worked okay for a bit.
That was until I switched something in the settings, or in Cura, or something happened, because the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing. I will use the auto home feature to level my bed with a piece of paper and once I get that pretty close I try and start my print, and it starts a few millimetres further away from the bed than when levelling it.
Any ideas to solve this? | [
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15,166 | I am building a toolchanger CoreXY 3D printer. I am in big trouble to find mic-6 aluminium toolplate in my country. Can you suggest me an alternative to mic-6? In my country, I can find easily 5083, 6082, 7005, etc. I don't think, that theese aluminium plates are suitable as heated bed. The design of the bed is the same as the [jubilee 3D printer](https://jubilee3d.com/index.php?title=Main_Page), so it will be best to have minimum warpage. | [
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15,169 | I have OctoPrint set up on a Raspberry Pi (OctoPi). I have loaded a number of G-code files to the SD card on the printer.
My question is: If I initiate a print from the SD card via OctoPrint, can I then turn off the RPi so I can use it for other things while the print continues? | [
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15,175 | I am a complete beginner so I apologise ahead for probably an obvious question. From what I understand up to now, slicer software basically takes a 3D model and turns it into instructions that say move your print head to this and this position and extrude up to this position and so forth. If that is correct then each slicing software can result in different "filament paths" in printing of the same model ultimately having the effect on the quality of print (unless the "Slicing algorithm" is some open industry accepted one and everyone uses that). But then, it would be advantageous to use other slicer software than the one supplied with the printer. On the other hand, if a slicer gives the instructions to the printer and assuming the G-code is a universal instruction kit (standard each printer understands), it needs to know, at the least, the parameters of the printer.
So the questions are:
1. Can I use any slicing software with any 3D printer and are there any things that may cause a problem (e.g. "How do I set up the slicing software for a particular printer?")
2. If not, am I stuck with the software provided by the printer manufacturer and thus, before buying a printer, one should also analyse the slicing software provided or is there some compatibility chart?
Regarding 2. I looked at both PrusaSlicer, Slic3r, Cura. None of them provide any information on the compatibility. I have access to Creality CR-10S printer but when I saw e.g. PrusaSlicer compared to the Creality, it has more options it seems. But during the installation of the Creality slicer, it forced me to choose the printer that I will be using which suggests that printers are locked to the manufacturer slicer. | [
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15,180 | I keep having a recurring problem with my ender 3 pro. The bowden tube keeps popping off here (pictured)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hWvUQ.jpg)
I've read elsewhere online where people are having a similar problem, i.e. the ptfe tube is actually popping out, but I don't know if thats the case here. It's staying attached to the metal coupler, but that metal coupler is unscrewing during the course of the print and falling out. Any tips to fix it? New one? Some sort of loc-tite to get it to not unscrew? Any ideas? | [
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15,218 | The image below I indicated where the point where the tip of my extruder returns after changing the layer height, I don't know if I am right to call this point "Start Point" ...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mZmgC.jpg)
The problem I am having is possible to see in the photo, because there is a slip of material and sometimes "webs" are created that compromise the quality of the print.
I tried to modify the retraction parameters, such as: speed and retraction length ...
Is there a parameter that I can modify to improve my print?
The slicer software I use is the : FlashPrint\_4.5.1 (because I have a FlashForge Dreamer NX) | [
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15,228 | I was able to connect my terminal program (Putty) to my 3D Printer (Creality Ender 3 Pro) and was able to send G-code commands to my printer and it obeys.
Now suppose I sent long command like
```
G29 ; auto bed leveling
```
and it is still executing. Printer writes me
```
echo:busy: processing
```
How to interrupt it?
I tried to send `M0`, but it didn't work. | [
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15,235 | I have two otherwise-identical machines (called "Lefty" and "Righty"), so I have a baseline to compare. I am running Manmil 2.0.7.2 on both machines. They are Creality CR-10 printers with BTT SKR e3 Mini v1.2 boards, with Manmil I compiled myself. Both machines are (as far as I know!) running the same exact firmware binary.
When running **the same G-code** on both printers, Lefty prints fine. But, Righty fires the plastic through -- I need to set the flow rate to 50 % (!) to be correct. I have checked the esteps, both are identical at 415, and this produces 39.5 mm of 40 mm commanded when bumped through 1 mm at a time via the extrusion menu, even on Righty. The XY movement on both machines is 100 % correct.
Volumetric extrusion is disabled in the firmware on both machines, and disabled in the slicer. Both machines are running TMC2209 drivers, set to Spread Spectrum at 650 mA for the extruder. Both machines are set to 1250 accel. The steppers are rated for 1 A, and they are not skipping steps.
The machines were working side-by-side perfectly until I killed Righty's stepper driver with static, and replaced the board. No other hardware was modified.
Why do both machines behave the same with identical G-code, until extrusion moves? Why does Righty try and extrude nearly double what it should be, only during printing, when Lefty works perfectly? | [
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15,247 | The Y-axis belt just broke on my Ender 3 v2. I believe that it was over tensioned from the factory. When I initially assembled the printer, I noticed that the Y-axis tensioner was tightened almost all the way. The belt itself felt very stiff. The X-axis belt, which I installed upon assembly, didn't require a lot of tightening. I have ordered replacement belt material and clips to make new belts.
What is the proper tension for both the X- and Y-axis belts? | [
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15,258 | I am making a DIY 3D printer based on the Prosi mini. So, I doubt whether RAMPS can control only 4 stepper motors as it has slots for 5 stepper motor slots and one will not be used in my case. If I can, in what order should I connect the drivers and also how will Marlin figure out which slot the extruder is connected? Sorry for the lack of knowledge if it is really obvious :| | [
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"text": "There is no problem with using 4 motors instead of 5. The 5th slot is provided to enable use of a second ex... | 2021/01/09 | [
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15,263 | From my understanding, the power of heater must higher than heat dissipate to ambient air so the bed can heat up. The reason why a bed heats up too slowly is due to its heat capacity compared to heater power.
As the heater is a resistive load, I think we can put higher voltage to get more heating power.
The PCB heater has two parts: copper and laminate. The reason of failure is that the copper can come off the board due to high temperatures. In this case we can control temperature with firmware. The questions are:
1. Will this method work?
2. What can go wrong or what is the risk of this method? | [
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"text": "Not necessarily\n===============\n\n**Potential differential U**, aka *Voltage* of a part, is not to be ignored: a 2... | 2021/01/09 | [
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15,274 | I first want to say **thank you** for taking the time to read this. I've been trying to print out some parts for another project of mine. These parts use up around 70% of the bed so they are fairly large, unlike the smaller trinkets and things I normally print.
However, I have yet been able to print one of these larger parts without any layer shifting. The part I've been trying to print is a lid to the bottom of a case. It's square, with rounded corners, about 160mm x 160mm.
It will print the first layer without shifting most of the time. However, upon starting the second layer it will almost have at least one layer shift. I have tried a number of things to remedy this, which I will list further down this post.
The layer shifting seems to be unrelated to jerk, acceleration, bed shifting, and z offset at the very least. There is an audible clunk sound that can be heard when it does this. In the image I've linked, you can see the correct path of the print head through the green arrows. However, upon a layer shift, it follows the path of the red arrows. It never shifts during a direction change, only when it is following a straight path. It's almost as if one of the motors gives up for a second. I am aware the print is under extruded, this is one of my trials hoping it was merely the nozzle clipping against the print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ltqzA.jpg)
Allow me to share with you my setup:
* I have an Ender 3 V2, with the stock mainboard, stock glass bed, and stock hotend.
* I've replaced the extruder assembly with an all-metal one from Creality.
* I have the stiffer bed springs. As well as the better PTFE tube fittings and Capricorn tubes.
* I've put together a cooling pack on Thingiverse. <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4644985> The mainboard and hotend fans were replaced with Noctua performance fans that I'll talk more about later.
* The hotend assembly is a hero me gen 5 with dual 4010 fans and a BLTouch.
* I'm using Smith3D's 5x5 high-speed firmware (Previously the 4x4 high speed).
---
Now let me share my tried solutions.
* I firstly, disassembled the printer, checking all belt teeth and motor gears (which are pressed onto their shafts without a grub screw). Afterward, I readjusted all eccentric nuts to get the perfect amount of tension while maintaining smooth operation on both X and Y axes. I've used brake cleaner and dish soap to remove the grease on the Z-axis lead screw and replaced it with WD-40 dry lubricant.
* Continuing, I've releveled the bed and checked all axis operation to ensure it was smooth and without any bumps, hitches, or anything of the sort.
1. I tightened all the frame screws, hotend screws, fan screws, grub screws. Nothing moves even a millimeter.
2. The belts were tensioned so that they can be strummed like a guitar string when I move either the hotend or bed to its end stop.
3. I checked my aftermarket fans to ensure they are working. The mainboard and hotend fan run nonstop at their optimal 12V. The PSU fan turns on and off as it needs to cool the PSU...
4. The cables are nicely managed in the mainboard compartment and I'm sure that the larger fans provide it plenty of airflow. Not to mention the printer was raised by the use of squash-ball feet.
5. I have slowed my print speed from 75mm/s to 60mm/s with this print. This means a 30mm/s inner/outer wall along with 60mm/s infill speed and 150mm/s travel speed. Acceleration and jerk are at their defaults: 500mm/s^2 and 10mm/s.
6. I've adjusted my Z offset so that it slightly under extrudes to prevent the filament from bunching up.
7. I've calibrated my e steps.
8. I've formatted the SD card and changed my firmware from Smith 3D's 4x4 high speed to 5x5 high speed.
9. I've updated Cura to the latest version 4.8 and ensured my hero me home offset is correct.
10. I've tried moving the model to different corners in Cura and ensured the software's jerk and acceleration control are disabled.
11. I've checked the bed movement with its clips, it doesn't move easily and both clips have very good tension.
12. I've checked the stepper driver voltages (I did not change them). E: 1.34V Z: 1.16V Y: 0.99V X: 1.15V.
13. I have Z hop enabled with a 0.2mm hop, no issues or noises when it moves across the print.
14. I've purchased a filament dry-box from SUNLU along with a new spool of SUNLU black filament. The dry box has Capricorn PTFE tubing that leads the filament straight into the extruder. There is very little friction inside the tube.
15. I've slightly tightened the tension on the extruder although I didn't have problems with it skipping.
---
Again, I'd like to reiterate, nothing is loose on this printer, it doesn't skip when it rapidly changes directions, only when following either a straight or diagonal line. The printer movement is very smooth and near-silent with all of my modifications. It's frustrating to me that I can't solve this problem. I feel like the printer has a mind of its own. I have begun to suspect either the mainboard or something else hardware related is amiss. However, I have chosen not to mess with it until posting this. If you've read through this, **I thank you for your patience and time reading it**.
---
Any advice or possible causes to this problem are welcomed. I am at a complete loss and am desperate for a solution. | [
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"text": "You mentioned a noticeable 'clunk' when it shifts, are you sure it isn't a physical obstruction? You said yo... | 2021/01/10 | [
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15,281 | I'm struggling with bed adhesion for nylon on a glass bed (122 °C measured) in an enclosed chamber (45 °C near the front, likely more on top of the print bed). I used a glue stick to enhance adhesion, but after around 20 minutes the print comes off the bed.
I tried a [no-brand glue stick](https://www.123-3d.nl/123inkt-lijmstift-medium-21-grams-i1326-t7445.html) and a [Pritt glue stick](https://www.123-3d.nl/Pritt-stick-medium-22-gram-i1329-t7445.html).
Now I wonder whether they are suitable for the purpose, because nylon should really be printable in these conditions. Maybe the glue cannot hold those 100+ °C temperatures.
How to find out whether a glue stick is PVA-based and suitable for nylon (or polycarbonate, ABS) printing? | [
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"text": "Not all glue sticks work! The working ingredient of a glue stick is [Polyvinylpyrrolidone](http://en.wikipedia.org/w... | 2021/01/11 | [
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15,303 | From what I've seen, you can take a typical extruder heater, apply the designated supply voltage without temperature control, and as long as the heater isn't contacting something with a flashpoint below the temperature the heater reaches, the heater will not catch on fire. Thus, unless one catches the filament on fire, it seems that thermal runaway of the extruder heater wouldn't normally start a fire.
I'm not sure what would happen if someone installed wrong components, such as a 12V heater to a 24V supply. What are situations that could cause a 3D print to catch fire? | [
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"text": "A normal hotend will not melt or cause fires, usually, see first video. However, if the power regulating unit fails a... | 2021/01/13 | [
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15,317 | Let's say, I want to print a box for putting game tokens in.
It is an empty cube, but the top layer is missing.
I do not need full walls. It could have holes in it resulting in a mesh structured wall, like a fence or a shopping cart.
What pattern should I use for the best object stability and print speed?
What programs can I use to design this? (I do not want to manually add 100 holes in my design). | [
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"text": "Holes in vertical walls will make it take significantly *more* time to print, not less. Rathe... | 2021/01/14 | [
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15,327 | I have a Creality Ender 3 that printed a spool of Sunlu PLA with no issues, so I bought a second to replace it, just in a different color.
The problem is I can’t get it to stick. The bed is level, I’ve tried printing at different temps, even adjusted the fan, but no luck. No matter what, the print still only partially sticks to the bed before eventually being knocked loose by the nozzle, if it even sticks at all. Mostly it just extrudes in a spaghetti ball next to the nozzle.
Does anyone know how I can fix this issue? I have tried everything!
Update:
More info for those who have asked:
I have adjusted the temps of both the hot end and the bed to various temps within what is recommended with this filament (200-230 and 50-90 C)
The bed is level
I have attempted prints with both the plastic and glass beds (glass bed has never been printed on)
Attempted to use hairspray
While the print is somewhat sticking, it now produces a glob of pla while making its first pass down, which it then hits and completely unsticks. I think the glob is caused by the pla not sticking to the bed from the very beginning but am unsure.
Hope this helped! | [
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"text": "Level the bed\n=============\n\nMake sure that the bed is level. The nozzle must be equally high over heated su... | 2021/01/15 | [
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15,334 | I have an array with holes that I have to fill with different materials. My question is there is an easy way to fill them directly? I tried array, array draft and it is annoying to adjust them. In Blender, it easy to select the vertices and fill. Maybe it is a stupid question, but I am not really an expert.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7VwUW.png) | [
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"text": "If you are asking for print then it is yes with FDM (fused deposition modeling) with multi... | 2021/01/15 | [
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15,340 | I am looking for a way to generate 2D horizontal templates for manually carving an object. My thought was to produce an STL of the model, generate the G-code, and then transform that into slices. Appreciate any suggestions for where to start. I'm not afraid of getting my hands dirty with python, R, matlab, whatever. | [
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"text": "I would approach following way. I saw interesting example of using *Autodesk Fusion 360* to generate moves (G-C... | 2021/01/16 | [
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15,350 | After watching every possible YouTube video on the subject and reading any source available, and although I'm a PhD and quite computer savvy, I still can't make my Anet A6 (no probe) behave in terms of Z offset. I upgraded to silicone bed buffers instead of the stock springs; now my bed is ~5 mm raised, and I don't know how to proceed. Some observations:
* **G28** makes the nozzle go to the center of the bed. Display says X 111 and Y 111. Is it preferable to set the home to the bottom-left corner, or is the center just fine?
* **G28** makes the nozzle squish the bed ~5 mm deep.
* I've tried the **G92** approach and the **M428** approach. I can't quite understand what's the difference between them. Can anyone explain why sometimes the former is used and sometimes the latter?
* I had high hopes for **M428**. What could be simpler? You physically guide the nozzle to where you want it to be, send the command, and that's your new 0,0,0. But I guess not. Since my "home" is at 111,111 and apparently M428 can only be used at a maximum of 20 mm from 0, I get a "too far from reference" error message.
* At any rate, both approaches (also **M206**) haven't helped. When I **G28**, the nozzle still squishes the bed. The display either says Z 5 or Z -5 or whatever I've played with, but the nozzle still squishes the poor bed.
* In my LCD menu (Marlin 1.1.9), I don't have Control -> Motion -> Z offset. Since many videos recommend using this, this is quite sad. Can anyone tell me why this option is absent?
* On a very conceptual level, I can't quite understand why in all the video guides the bed screws are completely ignored when discussing Z offset. One guy showed how he's correcting his Z offset 0.3 mm using G-code. But he could've easily done it by adjusting his screws... They all say "Z offset means the distance between your nozzle and bed, and here is how to adjust it". Now comes G-code, or LCD menu, etc. But why is everyone forgetting that you can adjust the distance between your bed and nozzle using the screws?! I can't seem to wrap my head around this. In my case, of course, I can't use the screws -- they've reached their limit, so I need to add extra using G-code. But nobody seems to really explain this nicely...
**Summary:** I urgently need a walkthrough for 6-year-olds. Make that 4-year-olds. | [
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15,356 | I just bought an Ender 3 Max and from the start I knew something was wrong. I figured out the problem: it is with the first few millimeters of the Z axis movement.
I turn on my 3D printer, go to prepare, move axis, move Z, move 1 mm.
Then I tell the printer to move up 1 mm. But in reality it only moves up 0.3 mm. I then tell it to move up another millimeter, except it only moves up 0.4 mm. When I tell it to move up another millimeter, and it moves up only 0.45 mm. I then tell it to move up another millimeter and it moves up 0.6 mm. And then anytime after that when I say to move up a millimeter it actually moves up a millimeter. Below is a little chart to help you understand what is happening.
```
Set height | Actual height
--------------------------
0 | 0
1 | 0.3
2 | 0.7
3 | 1.15
4 | 1.75
5 | 2.75
6 | 3.75
7 | 4.75
8 | 5.75
9 | 6.75
10 | 7.75
```
As a result of this error on my printer, the test prints I have run so far are splayed out and uneven at the bottom, making my prints warped at the first 5 mm and several millimeters shorter than they should be. | [
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15,361 | I've had an Ender 5 Plus for a few weeks now. It's printing great and I've got my tuning pretty good at the moment. I've noticed some horizontal inconsistencies matching feature/geometry changes. It seems to be associated with maybe layer time(?) I only have a picture from two models, but the problem will appear in other places on different models, always matching some change in the layers.
The problem is consistent all around the model and changes position with different prints, so I know it's not a mechanical problem. Say I printed a 2x2 cm tower 20 cm tall, it will not have any of these imperfections because every layer is identical.
I highly suspect the layer time/temperature change, but I don't know how to fix this, I'm a bit stumped. They both were printed at 200 °C and I'm trying a new one at 210 °C (best temperature with the spool I have) and it has the same problem. All three models are from the same spool of PLA.
Also, I use Cura with mostly default settings for the Ender 5+.
Here are the pictures :
I tried to highlight the idea, but every line matches with some change in the model
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EwjN7.jpg)
On the benchy it's harder to see, but the hull line match with the solid floor of the model, and the top ones match with the top window sill starting.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/STS4C.jpg) | [
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15,374 | My CR-10 S5 has a feature, that stops the print, when the filament runs out.
However, when the printer pauses, the bed cools down and the print plops if the bed. Is there a way to tell the printer to keep the bed heated, when paused (by the runout detector)? | [
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15,377 | After a long battle with SKR Mini v2, TFT35 and BLTouch and creating the right firmware. I thought I was through it all and ready to start printing again after finally being able to set the Z offset and auto level the bed. My printer has other thoughts. Now my bed temperature will only heat up to 10 °C below the set point temperature and after a few minutes it starts beeping and says this on the screen "`Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset`". As an example, set it to 60 °C, it will get up to 50 °C normally and stop at 50 °C.
Anyone gone through this? I'm sure there is some setting in the firmware that I have missed up. I'm hoping someone can educate me on my mistake. | [
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"text": "Searching the error message \"Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset\" seems to indicate that the b... | 2021/01/20 | [
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15,391 | I am looking to 3D print some small molds that will allow wood glue to dry but ***not*** stick.
Is there a recommended filament that is known to ***resist*** binding to simple wood glue?
Alternately, is there an inexpensive adhesive (like wood glue) I could use instead that will ***not*** stick to the 3D printed mold? | [
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"text": "You are looking for a filament that does not bond to wood glue, or as weak as possible. You misunderstand how wood g... | 2021/01/21 | [
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15,392 | I've been dealing with 3D printing for 1.5 years, but now own a CR-6 SE myself since the beginning of 2021. Most things are already quite clear but for 2 days I have had a problem with the adhesion of the prints.
Nearly all prints I have done so far used the filament shipped with the printer (PLA 1.75) and they came off the building plate after some cooling time by themselves. I used the default printer settings for PLA: 200 °C nozzle temperature, 60 °C printing bed.
Then 2 days ago the prints began to not stick to the bed anymore and I thought this could be because of dust and from touching the bed. So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed. There is no chance of loosening it without more IPA or way too much force.
I already tried:
* cleaning the bed with clean water - unfortunately, didn't work
* setting the Z-offset from 0.1 back to 0.2 mm - also no success
Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 °C nozzle temperature, 80 °C print bed - but the problem stayed the same.
Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate? | [
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15,395 | After a year of printing smaller models, I finally went to print something that would take up most of the build plate from left to right and realized that my nozzle cannot reach "true" X home.
As seen in this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/h4oFv.jpg)
the X-axis endstop does not allow a true X0, thus losing me precious mm of print space! I over-exaggerate, but truly is there any way to shift the X-axis more to the left or the Y axis/build plate more to the right to gain full bed usage?
Additional photo showing that the actual hotend plate is hitting the endstop:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b5NRV.jpg)
Is this an Ender 3 problem in general that I have missed in my internet searches on this or is it just a manufacturing lottery that I unfortunately lost? | [
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15,417 | I am using PLA and I am looking for ideas on using the `Tune` option to tune my Prusa i3 MK3 to increase the speed to 300 %.
The 300 % speed works perfectly fine for some of the models.
However, for some of the flat surfaces, the printer cannot handle the speed. The issues are pointed in the image below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hm8p0.jpg)
It seems that printer is struggling to supply enough filament.
Can I solve the issue by using the `Tune` menu by changing settings like temperature or flow?
**Answer:**
While @dandavis is informative, but this is how I did it:
* increasing z offset so nuzzle has enough space to dispense.
* Increase temperature +10
Please note that this degrades the print quality, but I am just printing a few organizer boxes. Quality is not essential and not something I expect from a 300% speed. | [
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"text": "extruder clicking means you're getting backed up, grinding.\n\n* Make the hotend hotter so you can melt filament... | 2021/01/24 | [
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15,421 | I was printing an object and it started to drag so I stopped it.
Went to move the Z-axis up so I could clear the bed and Z-axis would not budge.
I switched the printer off and manually turned the motors to get the Z up.
Cleared the bed, switched on and homed the printer. When it came to home the Z, BLTouch deployed and then nothing. Motors will not turn.
Things I tried:
* Recompiled the firmware (Marlin 2.0.x)
* Different motors - Motors were free from the printer, just resting on a desk so I know it's not binding or anything.
* Swapped stepper driver with a known working one.
Info about the printer:
* CR10s
* SKR1.4 Turbo board
* TMC2208 Steppers
* BLTouch
* Octopi to control the printer.
Output of `M122` for the Z:
```
Recv: Z
Recv: Address
Recv: Enabled false
Recv: Set current 1000
Recv: RMS current 994
Recv: MAX current 1402
Recv: Run current 17/31
Recv: Hold current 8/31
Recv: CS actual 8/31
Recv: PWM scale
Recv: vsense 0=.325
Recv: stealthChop true
Recv: msteps 16
Recv: tstep max
Recv: PWM thresh. 0
Recv: [mm/s] -
Recv: OT prewarn false
Recv: triggered
Recv: OTP false
Recv: pwm scale sum 10
Recv: pwm scale auto 0
Recv: pwm offset auto 36
Recv: pwm grad auto 14
Recv: off time 4
Recv: blank time 24
Recv: hysteresis
Recv: -end 2
Recv: -start 1
Recv: Stallguard thrs
Recv: uStep count 40
Recv: DRVSTATUS Z
Recv: sg_result
Recv: stst
Recv: olb
Recv: ola
Recv: s2gb
Recv: s2ga
Recv: otpw
Recv: to
Recv: 157C
Recv: 150C
Recv: 143C
Recv: 120C
Recv: s2vsa
Recv: s2vsb
Recv: Driver registers:
Recv: Z 0xC0:08:00:00
Recv:
Recv:
Recv: Testing Z connection... OK
``` | [
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15,432 | I am looking at printing a fair amount of text, ideally using some custom fonts. I quite like [Stay Classy](https://pixelify.net/download/free-fonts/script-handwritten/stay-classy-font-free/) but will likely have to consider change if it causes issues.
I am a little stuck on where to start with using these in some tools. I have tried creating an SVG using the font and importing to Tinkercad however that always fails. I only want to print the text, nothing else.
How do I properly convert my font into .svg and import that so I can make my bodies? While I have tried Tinkercad I am open to alternative tools if this can be achieved more easily. | [
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"text": "Fonts are not saved in a format that is .svg compatible. However, text that is written in a font and saved as a blac... | 2021/01/25 | [
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15,439 | In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DJeIV.jpg)
However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have [resonance compensation](https://www.klipper3d.org/Resonance_Compensation.html) which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SZhB5.jpg)
However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see
Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times. | [
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15,444 | I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.
Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most "fragile" material from this point of view and for my needs.
My questions are:
1. Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?
2. Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer? | [
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"text": "PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 °C (293 °F).\n\nMelting temperature\... | 2021/01/25 | [
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15,447 | I just installed my BLTouch clone (Marlin 1.8) on my Anycubic i3 Mega Ultrabase and finding confusing information about the `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` or the `M851` command.
I understand `M851` command does the same as `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER` in the Configuration.h. (see [marlin docs](https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html))
So according to Marlin, this value is the distance of the nozzle to the distance of the triggering point of the sensor.
If I manage to measure that accurately, Marlin could probe the bed, knowing distance of probe to nozzle, add a margin for perfect distance (around paper thickness) and my bed would be forever perfectly measured with every autolevelling process and perfect distances could be calculated.
Instead, I find tutorials around the `M851` (e.g [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/5857/z-offset-on-autoleveling-sensor-setup/5858#5858?newreg=7ba284617c6d4de7834be73f67dd4e6b) telling to manually level the bed, then take the current Z-value of the extruder and put that into the `M851` value. In my understanding it makes little sense, as it has no reference to when the sensor triggers, its distance to the bed.
Sure, maybe this way it can get an understanding of slight derivations in the planarity of the bed, but it would not have automatically "levelled" my bed, just compensated for imperfections.
I am confused by the amount of tutorials that suggest so. Whats the case now? Is Marlin not really able to really level to my bed? | [
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"text": "What may be confusing is the use of the naming of the mechanism \"Auto Bed Levelling\", or short ABL, does not make ... | 2021/01/26 | [
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15,456 | I have an Ender 5 with an auto bed leveling sensor (TRU-LEV 600).
It is working fine, however, as the sensor probes the bed, the nozzle and the bed cool down and are not staying heated as it is getting the points, even though they were heated up in the first place.
How do I stop the bed and hotend from cooling down while the bed is being probed?
Here is my start G-code:
```
M75; Start Print Timer and Engage Fil Sensor if USB Printing
G92 E0; Reset Extruder distance to 0
G1 E-2; Retracts filament to prevent blobs during probing
M84 E; Disable E Motor for probe accuracy on direct drive systems
G28; home all axes
G28 Z; home Z to get more accurate Z position
G29; TRULEV mesh generation
G4 S10; wait for heaters to recover
M117 Purge extruder
G92 E0; reset extruder
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0; move to start-line position
G1 Z1.0 F3000; move z up little
G1 X0.1 Y100.0 Z0.3 F750.0 E15; draw 1st line
G1 X0.4 Y100.0 Z0.3 F5000.0; move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F750.0 E30; draw 2nd line
G92 E0; reset extruder
G1 Z1.0 F3000; move z up little
M117 Printing.....
``` | [
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15,457 | After seeing a question about FDM printing of temperature-resistant parts, high-temperature 2-part epoxy came to mind. Are there any (experimental or production) FDM extruders for laying viscous, fast-curing epoxy, mixing it at the last moment before extrusion? Or likewise other cured/resin materials, either 2-part or UV-cured (with whole print volume flooded with UV)? | [
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"text": "Is this what you're looking for?\n\n(<https://the3dprinterbee.com/how-does-a-resin-3d-printer-work-sla-dlp-lc... | 2021/01/26 | [
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15,469 | I got this message from my Creality Ender 6 printer.
Now every time I want to print, or when it heats up, the printer gives me this message.
Can anyone please help with this?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oCLzI.jpg "Heating failed error") | [
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15,495 | I'm using Cura to slice prints from a biodegradable polyester called PCL ([Polycaprolactone](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polycaprolactone)).
I need to print @ ~70 °C but extruder does not run until nozzle reaches 175 °C.
Which setting to change so extruder will turn on when nozzle temperature has reached 70 °C?
Here are my settings for the material:
**[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IIh9C.png)** | [
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"text": "70 °C is a specialty filament. It is well below the `MIN_TEMP` defined in any sane firmware. In Marlin, you **can't**... | 2021/01/29 | [
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15,498 | ***TL;DR** - Please help me rebuild my CR-6 SE so that I can move on*
---
Here's a link to the latest issue that I had to make proof of in a video: [CR6-SE failed](https://youtu.be/9vChL7Il_9Y)
Basically, it's failing to reach/maintain temperature (set point of 240 °C, fails to heat above 230 °C), issues start to happen at temps as low as 210 °C.
Creality support is evasive/dodgy. First, they want to see a video proof for the problem reported, and after a while and emails from me asking, suggested something obvious (set temp to 200 °C).
And without any video, they don't respond. Just like last time when I ran into the defective/burned power switch and failed bed leveling.
*If you have some spare time, please quickly check the video and provide some feedback.*
I already fixed the burned power switch and auto-leveling (Creality ignored me, so I got the parts from Amazon).
This is the last issue that I need to do a "mercy" fix, so that I can either repurpose it or, just give it away (but I still have to make it working again and safe!).
I already placed an order for an i3 MK3S+, should've bought this in the first place to help me study 3D modeling, *not working my degree towards fixing Creality printer failures* :)
Thanks in advance.
My troubleshooting steps so far after a screw fell off during print:
* Disassembled the hotend: found heater block loose, screws were bent and somewhat stripped
* Heater resistor has a bad crimp
* Thermistor is reading temp, but I don't know if it's accurate (don't have a multimeter+thermocouple)
Ordered a hotend from AliExpress, hopefully, that's it | [
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15,503 | I've just changed the motherboard on my Ender 3 Pro with a MKS GEN\_L v1.0 and flashed the latest Marlin version on it.
I've calibrated my bed manually using the default XY and Z auto home commands on OctoPrint and a piece of paper.
I'm happy with the calibration, however whenever I launch a print the Z axis moves up from the calibrated position by about 4 mm and starts extruding.
I've checked my Z endstop status with `M119` and it's triggered at the right calibrated position.
How can I correct this? | [
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15,519 | I've read a bunch of articles about getting better springs for my bed levelling screws so that I don't have to adjust it as often because standard springs vibrate loose as it prints.
However, would it be simpler and more effective to just use Nyloc nuts tightened against the adjustment wheels so that the wheels cannot rotate? Or some other form of mechanical prevention of the wheels turning? For example, tie a piece of string between the spokes in opposite wheels, so they cannot rotate much relative to each other. | [
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"text": "It's because the bed heats up. Since the bed can heat up to the point that locktite or nylon can soften, using... | 2021/02/01 | [
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15,521 | What should I take care of to replace the nozzle of the hotend assembly the right way?
What kind of data, precautions, tools, steps, and verification are important for replacing the nozzle?
The procedure seems straightforward but tutorials differ greatly and seem often incomplete. Online videos are great but long, sometimes misleading, and difficult to compare if they use another printer model.
For example:
* This [Prusa 3D tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=txt6sxV6X88) starts from heating the nozzle to 280 °C, which is dangerous for some hotend setups. Also, it is created around a direct drive extruder, so it does not advise to what to do with a Bowden tube.
* Another [Changing Nozzles & Bowden Tubes video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRzsGttNMyk) seems to be a great tutorial but advises heating only to ~210 °C. So I need to make sure I know my hardware limits first? Should I take something else into account about temperature, or just act by experience, [starting from 230 °C](/a/11648/26170)?
* Is that heating mandatory, or only [when there is residue filament inside](/a/5123/26170)? If there is something to consider about [replacement nozzle](/q/8064/) before installing it, or cooling down again, like PID calibration?
So I am looking for a general overview: **what should I think of** to be in control? And maybe a bit of **why**, but not necessarily how. (As always, each detail may be a separate study, so please don't to fall into troubleshooting, which could be done in separate questions like [E3D V6 nozzle seized into heater block](/q/11646/)). | [
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15,550 | Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet.
My goal is to make a small tubular and conical shapes that can be painted with a stainless steel coating and will react with a magnet.
I know I can buy iron filled PLA but these rust which I want to avoid. **I'm trying to get the magnetic properties of stainless steel (no rusting / reacts to magnets)**
I have found videos on how to coat with copper / silver / carbon but I'm looking for stainless steel no rust / magnetic properties.
---
*I'm looking for a "low-cost" solution just for testing.* | [
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"text": "The surface won't work\n======================\n\nThe only true-metallic surface treatments I know to be actual metal... | 2021/02/04 | [
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15,553 | I have a 3D printer built from generic, scrap parts.
It's controlled by a 2+ years old `MKS GEN L` board running Marlin version `1.1.x`.
I want to do a complete bed assembly replacement, including:
* Heated bed
* Thermistor
* Y-carriage
All the hardware bits, including the z-endstop are sorted and ready to be installed.
**My question is:**
* Once I replace the assembly, what kind of software / firmware modifications do I need to do to Marlin configuration for my printer to work correctly?
I understand that I need to modify dimensions and offsets but I am unsure what else will I need to change within the codebase before flashing Marlin. | [
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15,554 | So, I'm pretty new to 3D Printing, and to quote Spock from *Wrath of Khan* I would say "He is intelligent, but not experienced". Now everything I have been reading about Z-offset seems to talk about a 0.2 mm gap and using a piece of paper.
Wishing to be accurate, I have tried to use my 0.2 mm feeler gauges and this is too high.
However, the thickness of paper depends on the GSM (grams per square metre). A Google search tells me that the average thickness of paper is ~0.1 mm but how can we be accurate with this variation.
I tried using a 0.1 mm feeler gauge and even this seemed too high. Is this because of the lack of give in the metal? Anyway, I have now settled for a Litta slip (UK Lottery) which has a thickness of 0.1 mm and seems to allow me to set a good offset.
However, I would welcome someone who can explain the science behind this. | [
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15,574 | Since I have lots of PETG, I ran tuning to 230 °C (average temp for my filaments).
What is it good for, in terms of temperature ranges?
For the same printer configuration, and just different filaments, will I need to run it again and again?
Let's assume that I'll be printing between 200 °C and 240 °C.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SOVjm.png) | [
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15,577 | I manage four 3D Printers for my college's robotics team. They are used pretty constantly throughout the school year; that is, they are used more as manufacturing printers than hobbyist printers. The environment they are in is less than ideal: The outdoor climate is typically cold and has low humidity, and the room they are in has fine dust particles that are less than 80 microns diameter and have electrostatic properties. The room's temperature also fluctuates week to week. As such, static electricity is fairly common in that room.
What effects does static electricity have on our 3D printers? I have had numerous problems recently with a motherboard with resistors that failed and another printer with an unknown issue that we suspect also has to do with the motherboard. Could the static electricity be causing these or other issues, or affecting the quality of our printed parts?
We use ZylTech filament, and print using a Creality Ender 3 Pro, CR-10S Pro, Ender 5 Plus, and a FlashForge Creator Pro. The dust particles mimic "regolith", or lunar soil, that comes from one of our team's test facilities. | [
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"text": "Static electricity is detrimental to nearly all electronic devices. A stray zap from touching the frame of your pr... | 2021/02/07 | [
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15,597 | Repetier-host has a setting to specify the "print area". That's roughly the size of the bed.
Note that the printer head can go out of those bounds, in my case my bed is very undersized compared to the printer frame, but this would also be an issue if you had clips or some obstacles in the bed.
Is there a similar setting in Cura where I can specify the "print area"/"bed size"/"margins" to be different from the printer width/depth?
Thanks.
**Repetier host settings:**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mAOAA.png) | [
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15,605 | I currently use a BLtouch 3.1, which is known to stop operating at about 35-40 °C. In fact, when I preheat the bed at 100 °C close to the probe, I sometimes get issues with the pin not retracting correctly.
I would like in the future to enclose and heat the printer chamber, therefore I need a probe capable of operating at higher temperature. My target is 100 °C.
As of now, I'm aware of this solution:
<https://hightemp3d.com/products/remoteht-bed-level-probe-3d-printer>
>
> This high temperature probe uses a mechanical switch in combination
> with a servo motor to probe the bed. The servo motor is outside the
> enclosure and retracts the probe pin by pulling on a steel string
> inside a spring guide tube.
>
>
>
Microswitches are known to work at high temperatures (that's what the link above uses), but usually need a servo or other mechanism to extend/retract them when needed. Servos typically don't operate at such high temperature, not to mention that they are usually not very accurate.
I saw a [Hall filament sensor](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4138933) which uses Hall effect sensors "[ss49e](https://sensing.honeywell.com/honeywell-sensing-ss39et-ss49e-ss59et-product-sheet-005850-3-en.pdf)" and which could be easily [modified to be used as bed probe](https://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLC-4S0aWJmLgpsTpdV56nfbFBFBC1jijn&v=-UwGZgZvYmw&feature=emb_title). Those Hall effect sensors are rated up to 100 °C but at that temperature they have up to 8% shift of the null value and +3/-9% change in sensitivity. The linked project uses two of them in differential mode so the temperature compensation should be much better, but it is not clear how much better. A [discussion](https://3dua.info/topic/21-datchik-diametra-filamenta/?page=2) about it on a Russian forum does not talk about this.
Are there other options operating at 100 °C? | [
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15,606 | I have PLA and PETG filament.
I hear that 3D filament absorbs water and causes problems when printing but after printing they can be used with water and they are water proof.
So my question is why is it different after printing/what has changed to make it now waterproof?
* Is PETG waterproof or does it absorb water?
* Is there a limit on how much water PETG can absorb or will it keep going until it splits and turns to mush? | [
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15,616 | I'm having a "minor" stringing issue, where I'm only getting stringing in helpers/support and infill area.
Background: Calibrating printer with 1 roll of PLA. Still getting minimal stringing, but mainly, stringing in helpers/support and infill areas. Tried different temps, but didn't seem to affect this.
Suspect some kind of slicer optimization settings? I mean, it's logical to not care about how pretty supports & infill look.
I would like to understand why this is happening.
Please point me to the right direction.
Thanks in advance.
Example photo: Outside in: brim, shell/wall, support, brim.
From [Thingiverse](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4512926).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hEX6f.jpg) | [
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15,618 | I'm quite new to 3D-printing. I need to build a curved piece with a hole pattern and I was wondering whether it was possible to print such a hole pattern accurately, with such a thin (3 mm) thickness of the piece. In the past, when I tried printing thinner pieces with holes, the piece warped and holes were not printed properly. Therefore is there any changes to the model I need to make to improve the quality of the print, or add any supports?
I am using an Ender 3 Pro, with PLA.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/o2h6A.png) | [
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15,619 | I've never built a 3D printer before, but I understand dynamical systems and control theory, and I imagine a lot of the distortion/inaccuracy that happens during the FDM process (especially at high speeds) is due to position inaccuracies because of inertia. For example, a heavy print head moving fast enough might overshoot its position target if the system expects it to stop instantly. Does any existing 3D printer controller software try to measure the mass of the print head/movement assembly and then use that to come up with better movement instructions?
To speculate a bit: This additional accuracy might not be useful with many normal stepper-driven printers because they lack resolution and/or control, but I think in some cases it would. I imagine with enough positional accuracy and acceleration control you could model the print head position with a dynamical system and get extremely precise movement right up to the mechanical limits of the system.
Am I wrong that inertia has a large effect? Would this be theoretically impossible for some reason I'm not thinking about? | [
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15,637 | I've put together a flashlight mount for a camera coldshoe in OpenSCAD. I originally modeled it in FreeCAD and it was easy to round the edges of the clamp with a fillet and that makes it a little easier to get the light in and out of the mount.
I'm not sure how to do it in OpenSCAD. Naively, I'm sure I could calculate where on my semicircle I would need to add some cylinders in order to round the sharp corners, but it seems like there'd be something a little easier than that.
Am I missing something?
Here's the [coldshoe light mount SCAD file](https://github.com/tncbbthositg/cold_shoe_light_mount/blob/795489c90f412502a2545536e906ad8971cfd691/cold_shoe_light_mount.scad) and this is what it looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/StF93.png) | [
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15,667 | I have a Creality Ender 5 Pro which has been working properly for some time. During my last print, the axis motors just suddenly stopped working while the extruder motor continued to work properly.
In fact, when I connect the extruder motor wire to any of the axis motors, they respond correctly (mimicking the extruder motor) but neither works or moves when connected to its own wire(s). As a result the printer does not print anymore.
Here's what I've tried:
* Switching the wires around to check if any motors are damaged (none are).
* Restarting the Creality
* Checking the output on the power source (which is 24 V and about 14 A)
* Checking to make sure all motor wires are connected correctly on the SKR MINI CONTROLLER (all seem fine) and checking that the board is powered.
* All external connections also seem fine.
I'm quite confused why the axis motors would not be working all of a sudden. I'll appreciate your help if you've faced this problem before. | [
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15,679 | I am starting a new company using 3D printers and doing an advertisement, and I want to use the word FabLab to describe the kinds of field that my company is in.
Can I be sued by using the word FabLab in an advertisement? Is it a trademark? I mean, I can find [this](https://www.ebay.fr/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fablab&_sacat=0) and [this](https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=fablab&_sacat=0).
From the links it looks like they all trademarked the same non-dictionary word:
<https://trademarks.ipo.gov.uk/ipo-tmtext/page/Results> | [
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15,690 | Just as the title says. I feel like I have tried everything. I am compiling the firmware for Marlin on a Megatronics board from RepRap. That shouldn't be relevant, because I have validated that it is a firmware issue (and not a pin assignment/hardware issue).
When I turn it on, the Y-axis is active and just constantly holding. The stepper driver on Y-axis gets pretty warm constantly holding (as does the stepper motor).
When I swap the pin assignments for Y and X then the physical Y-axis moves fine when I manually change the X-axis so I know all the hardware and pin assignments are correct.
All the endstops are correctly reporting open (Z is BLTouch but that is also working).
Relevant software endstops are currently disabled, and default homing position is set to 50 to make sure it doesn't think it is at the bounds on boot.
I have a test firmware that checks all the endstops, temperature, and servos, and all servos work fine. As a sanity check, pin assignments match what is in the pins file.
Does anyone have any idea of what in the latest Marlin firmware would cause a software condition to just hold the y axis and not move? I should note that when I try to manually move it in Repetier-Host it shows that it is moving. When I try to give the home command, no movement on the Y but Repetier changes from red to black indicating it received confirmation of homing.
I am completely out of ideas at this point. | [
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15,691 | I recently tried cleaning my CR-10S Pro heat bed with acetone and it made this white stain on it.
Anyone have any solutions to this? | [
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15,697 | This is printing PETG extruding at 250 °C, 1st layer bed at 80 °C then 60 °C on other layers. Nozzle is 0.4 mm; printer is German Reprap X400. The all metal extruder is clean with no oozing. The print gets a blob when the wall width changes from 2 mm to 1 mm. The extruder squishes the blob out the sides of the wall with subsequent layers. Images below show both sides of wall. I'm looking for the cause to come up with a fix. I consistently get the same results in the same location when printing this file. The reduced area of the layer does cause reduced speed to increase the print time for the layer (speed reduced when layer would print in less than 30 seconds; minimum speed 15 mm/s).
When I printed two, there was only one blob on one of two. Below shows the speed settings. The perimeters are three vertical shells, so the walls are all perimeters. My understanding of the setting is the 2 mm wall printed at 20 mm/s and the 1 mm wall at 15 mm/s.
Printing similarly with 2 mm walls only and the same settings, the print is nearly perfect with only a few stringers. Printing with only 1 mm walls does not have the blob, but does have stringers.
See solution at the end.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T0WBA.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xDyNO.jpg)
**Solution:**
Speeding up the print speeds and using thicker walls not only eliminated the blogs, but also completely eliminated stringers, and gave a near perfect print. Apparently, the actual temperature that PETG extrudes is highly dependent on how fast it extrudes. Printing too fast clogs the nozzle because the filament doesn't have time to melt. Printing too slow causes the hotend to stop extruding from heat creep. Here, the actual temperature of the extruded PETG was decreased by speeding up the extrusion.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7STxh.png)s://i.stack.imgur.com/Uhv61.png | [
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15,732 | For a school project, my teacher gave me a brand new Mungem 3D printer to create parts with. After one good job, the printer cannot get past the raft creation without air printing. The thickness of the printed filament tapers down until no filament is coming out. I do not believe there is a jam in the hot end because if I remove the filament and cut off about 4 inches, the printer extrudes as normal.
I am using 1.75 mm PLA on a Mungem 3D LK4.
When the problem occurs, the extruder continues as normal but prints out very little filament. The extruder drive gear also ticks backward as if it cannot supply enough force to move the filament forward.
I have tried decreasing the speed, increasing the temperature, turning off retractions, but none of those options seemed to have any effect on the problem.
If videos or pictures could be helpful let me know what to include.
My working idea of what's wrong is that heat creep is causing the filament inside of the heat sink to soften causing the filament to thicken and Jam. I could be wrong.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T7Rxz.jpg "Failed Raft")
Figure one highlighting how the filament thins over the course of the raft creation until no more filament is extruded.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7UhUH.jpg "Thickened Filament")
Figure two showing how random parts of the filament is thicker than others. The thickness is noticeable and once I cut this section off, filament flows freely through the Bowden tube without friction. With this section, the filament is difficult to remove and requires more force.
I have tried:
* increasing the interface thickness to 0.4 from 0.27 mm and from 0.4 to 1.0 mm
* increasing the print speed from 50 mm/s to 90 mm/s
allowing the printer to cool off.
decreasing the temperature to 190 °C
During the print, I have noticed that the heat sink is hot to the touch during the raft creation but cools off once the fan starts spinning.
The fan does not spin at all during the creation of the raft. But spins at full speed once the actual print has begun. Mungem does not have a setting inside their software to change this.
I have gotten a few really small prints to work with print surfaces smaller than 2 cm wide
The prints themselves turn out great if they get past the raft stage (only for small prints). This additionally leads me to believe that heat creep is the problem and that the fan not being on is the cause.
Let me know if you have any ideas. | [
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15,740 | I'm printing a lot of draft parts so I don't care if they fall apart in my fingers, I just need the shape. I can scroll to the Tune menu on my Ender 3 Pro console and set the speed to 200% and it doubles the speed. But when I set the Print Speed setting to 100 instead of 50 mm/s in Cura, it doesn't save much time, even if I adjust the individual first layer speed, wall speed, top layer speed, etc. What is the difference?
Ideally, I would like the first layer to print normally, and then print at 2x speed. | [
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15,745 | I have had my Ender 3 v2 for just over two months and have had a blast working with it. I have printed some mods to personalize it.
One of the things that I have done to help mitigate the vibrational noise is to place my Ender 3 on a concrete paver that sits on top of 3 inches of upholstery foam. This has made a huge difference.
With the vibration noise down, now I can hear the fan on the extruder like never before.
Both fans are listed as "brushless" EFS-04D24L; of course, they look different in the pictures below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3xxsc.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CDnem.jpg)
What options are there to help reduce the fan noise? I wasn't sure if a baffle or enclosure would help. Or would it be easier to replace the fans with quieter ones? | [
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15,748 | I have an Ender 5 pro and upgraded from the magnetic bed to the glass version. I print with Prusament PLA on 65 °C bed temp and 220 °C extruder temp. I measured that the glass surface has ~58 °C in the center and ~56 °C on the corners. That should be in the specs of the spool which has a printed recommendation of 50 +- 10 °C for bed and 215 +- 10 °C for extruder temps.
Now I also have a BLTouch and use the TH3D firmware so Z offsets should work correctly and are done with the Z offset wizard present (nozzle touching the bed).
The problem I currently have is that the first layers have "lifts" in them. Also, it seems that the layer itself is not 0.2 mm everywhere. It's close to 0.23 mm on the edges but on the inner there are variances up to 0.36 mm.
Currently, I slice with Cura 4.8.0 on Standard Quality 0.2 mm
How do I get rid of the lifts and irregularity in the layer? Is it a problem with the bed?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ScOMF.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wmNBR.jpg) | [
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15,757 | If someone creates a 3D model of a character for 3D printing can I import that model into Unreal engine or Unity 3D for use in a video game? Also is the inverse true? Can I get 3D model of Marua and send that to a 3D printer?
Specifically, it’s more important to know if I can pull a 3D printer model into an unreal game project | [
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15,771 | I have found a video about Invisalign. I saw a 3D printer in the video but I did not understand its type. Can you help me? Do you share a brief piece of information about its type?
Below is the video on YouTube. | [
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"text": "If you look at the video at 37 seconds, it appears to be SLA or DLP.\n\nFurther reading: <https://www.solidprint3d.co... | 2021/03/01 | [
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15,772 | This is my first 3D printer so I'm not entirely sure what could be the cause of this issue.
I recently got a SUNLU S8 3D printer and have been trying to print the first test file, however, the layers end up stringy (for lack of a better word -- if anyone knows whether this is called something else, I'd appreciate the knowledge because Google searching for stringy layers does not yield similar results).
Anyway, I tried to increase the nozzle temperature from 205 °C to 215 °C and that seems to help slightly (filament is PLA and came with the printer). I also noticed that the extruder's feeder gear is grinding on the filament so I suspect that may be part of the problem.
Before I purchase an extruder kit, I figured I'd reach out and ask this community what they think could be the problem.
Does anyone know what might be causing this issue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pzyj9.jpg)
**Edit**
I cleaned the tubing and nozzle, and then releveled the bed. The filament was still stringy and whispy, however, I decided to let it print for a while. Although the picture is a top-down view, the walls of the print are also holey.
[](https://i.imgur.com/HQhQQuv.jpg) | [
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15,776 | I printed this [Curvy vase](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4775702) from Thingiverse and it came out pretty well on my Chiron.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AP0wQ.jpg "Curvy vase print")
However, I am not happy with the Z-seam that is very large. When I look at other people's problems with this, they often seem to have too little filament at the seam, but I have too much. What setting should I change to make it less visible?
* Printer: Anycubic Chiron with Marlin 2.0.7
* Material: PLA
* Slicer: Cura 4.8.0.
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
All Cura settings are [here](https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/Curvy_Vase.html) (except that I lowered printing temperature to 200 ºC while printing).
All files used and some pictures are [here](https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/).
---
2021-03-07 **Addendum** after I made 19 test-prints of a small portion of the vase's neck. Below are some of my notes:
8. Combing Mode=All is better than Off
9. Speed=60 is worse than 40
10. Retract Before Outer Wall=On is worse than Off
11. Outer Wall Line Width 0.45 to 0.35 gave a Z-seam on the outside with more build-up
12. Inner Wall(s) Line Width 0.45 to 0.35. Some places has less contact between layers, so less appealing and less robust. Also less material use.
13. Outer Wall Wipe Distance 2.0 spread ot the seam (too much), and also made a ditch before the Z-seam (on the outside of the ring).
14. Coasting tripled to Vol=0.588 and Wipe Distance 5.0 is more appealing. Two changes at once make it impossible to know which one helped. 5 mm is not enough to completely wipe.
15. 50% printing speed improved Z-seam and surface smoothness
In the future I will use slower speed for Outer Walls, test Wipe distance=2\*Line Width, use Combing (turned Off because of some advice to do so when LIN\_ADVANCE is used) and experiment with faster retractions and Z-movement.
Pictures and complete notes are available [here](https://www.telder.com/bilder/stackexchange/curvy_vase/). | [
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15,785 | I needed to know if typical UV curing resins, such as the ones from Anycubic, can withstand solar radiation over extended periods of time with little to no degradation. It has been quite difficult to find information about the subject online, so I'm wondering whether anyone here has experience here to share. | [
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15,796 | I decided to finally purchase an Ender 3 v2. It arrived today and after a few hours of making sure everything is straight, I tried to power it and do a test print...
I was disappointed to see that the screen stays black after more than 10 seconds from power on.
I did not insert any SD card in the printer or anything that could interfere with the presumably stock firmware on it.
Because of this, I opened up the power source and the motherboard case and checked the voltages/checked LEDs. The motherboard blue led is on, the power source green led is on as well. I did a few measurements - I get 24 V to the motherboard with a small spike of 35 V when it starts.
The hotend fan is always on.
I checked the display connection and I am sure it is placed correctly.
I tried to upload firmware onto the mainboard first by clearing the SD card (8 GB given by Creality) using `diskpart`. I wrote the 4.2.2 (same as motherboard version) firmware version (stock) onto the SD attempting to upload on the mainboard. I tried renaming it, unplugging the power cable, unplugging the screen cable, etc and nothing would work.
I tried rewriting the `DWIN_SET` files but the screen would not turn to black/blue/orange colors. I tried [more or less everything suggested here](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/j04s40/how_to_fix_the_ender_3_v2_firmware_upgrade_black/).
Is there anything I didn't do? What do you suggest? I already contacted the company where I bought it from, but I don't want to go through the assembly process twice - maybe I can make it work?
---
* The correct voltage for the power supply is set at 230 V (Europe) and was set to this all the time. I tried switching it back and forth without power too. No result.
* I've contacted the supplier yesterday. | [
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15,797 | I had the BLTouch (3.1) working with stock firmware on an Ender 3 v2 but wanted to get a 5x5 mesh instead of the 3x3 so I installed the TH3D firmware. With the stock firmware my Z-offset was -2.95 mm.
After installing TH3D firmware, my Z-offset has to be in excess of -6 mm to reach the same nozzle-to-bed height. I've tried setting the Z-offset via LCD and through G-code, saving to EEPROM. I'm having 2 problems with this that I assume are connected:
1. Z-offset seems to not be applied when setting Z axis position. When I autohome and then set Z axis to 0, even the extended probe from the BLTouch does not touch the bed (it's actually 1-2 mm away from touching). And this is with the Z-offset set to -6 mm.
2. I tried running a print, which includes an ABL request (`G29`), the print head crashed into the bed immediately after finishing levelling. My hunch is that when starting to print the -6 mm Z-offset starts being correctly taken into account.
Could this be the result of something I did in the Configuration.h when compiling the firmware?
I made the following changes:
[CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h](https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Board%20Configuration%20Files/CrealityV42X/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration.h)
* Line 24: uncommented `#define ENDER3_V2_V422_BOARD`
* Line 43: uncommented `#define CUSTOM_PROBE`
* Line 66: changed `#define EZABL_POINTS` from 3 to 5
* Line 124: changed `#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET` from `{ 10, 10, 0}` to `{ -44, -6, 0 }`
* Line 233: uncommented `#define BLTOUCH`
* Line 235: uncommented `#define SERVO0_PIN PB0`
* Line 636: commented out `#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN`
* Line 636: added `#define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING`
In [Configuration\_backend.h](https://github.com/th3dstudio/UnifiedFirmware/blob/2.0.x/Firmware/Marlin/Configuration_backend.h) the only change I made was increasing `Z_PROBE_OFFSET_RANGE_MIN` from -5 to -20. | [
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15,799 | I made two updates to my Ender 3 Pro: Silent Mainboard and BLTouch. My printer head is way out of sync now. After I Auto Home, it moves along the X-axis to the left, hits the stop switch & moves back to the right. It does not move at all on the Z-axis and remains 3 - 4" above the bed during and after Auto Homing.
Here's the detail :
I installed a Creality Ender 3 Pro New Upgrade Motherboard Silent Mainboard V4.2.7 with TMC2225 Driver Marlin 2.0.1 & bootloader pre-installed & then a Creality BLTouch 3D Printer Upgraded Auto Bed Leveling Sensor Kit (the kit that comes from Creality with everything you need to install). I imagine I attempted too many upgrades without verifying the printer worked properly when I did the first upgrade which was the mainboard?
I purchased this Ender 3 Pro back in April 2020. It was working great until I decided to make the upgrades. I assume it came with an 8-bit board but not 100% sure. The new board is 32-bit and not sure what that would negatively impact besides maybe the LCD screen which does work fine after the upgrade.
Here's a video of the printer attempting to Auto Home :
Note: Disregard the unhooked cable under the printer bed in the video. It is totally disconnected and leftover from the BLTouch install.
Here's how I did the upgrade :
First, I simply replaced the new mainboard, and with the mainboard cover and fan back in place, I powered the printer on. The only thing I did here was to verify that the printer would power up ok.
It powered up just fine. The nozzle head did not move I don't think when powered on.
Next, I followed the instructions for the BLTouch that came with the kit. I followed the instructions for the Creality V1 Mainboard 32-bit. Here, I upgraded the firmware via an SD card as suggested. The firmware I upgraded to is the `Ender-3 Pro_4.2.7_BLTouch_Marlin2.0.1_V1.1.2_TMC2225.bin`.
Finally, I powered on the printer with the BLTouch plugged in and new firmware installed. The BLTouch lights up and the touch sensor clicks out and in and few times.
Now, when I hit auto home the nozzle head moves like I described above & remains in a position that I can not attempt to print from. I attempted to follow step #6 Platform adjustment 32-bit, working through the screenshots in the instructions. This did not work.
If helpful, here are the positions of the nozzle head during the two upgrades :
* Position of the print head before install: 3-4 inches above the bed and maybe a little off-center on the X-axis.
* Position after install mainboard upgrade: remained the same as before. I just remember it powering on ok and then I turned it off / unplugged power to start installing the BLTouch.
Position after install of BLTouch: remained the same. BLTouch lights up and the sensor tip moved in and out as if it was checking something or verifying it was working.
I'm a bit lost on this issue. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
---
I'm using 3D4LYF's wiring scheme as I'm using the same set up I believe he is using. The two wires (white & black) on the red connector go in the Z-axis endstop port on the mainboard. For the three wires on the black connector I have: blue=Ground, red=V, yellow=IN that goes in the other 5 pin port on the mainboard. I rearranged the wiring from red/blue/yellow to blue/red/yellow as suggested by 3D4LYF again because I am using the BLTouch Creality Kit. Adding photos of 5-pin port and the connectors:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cjHJv.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LAtyD.jpg) | [
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"text": "Resolved : connected the white & black wires to the 5 pin output on the board. This solved the homing issue."
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15,803 | I have been using an Anycubic i3 Mega for about a month now and it worked fine. But when I designed a simple model in Fusion 360 and sliced it with Cura it started to have issues sticking to the bed. I thought the problem was the model so I tried to print a Benchy, but the same problem occurred. I readjusted the bed but it's still not working. I'm not sure how I can trouble shoot this. | [
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"text": "The proper answer could be not related to Fusion, as you already noticed.\n\nI suppose the issue is that the Ul... | 2021/03/06 | [
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15,806 | Comparing trends show that 3D printing stepped over to another level around 2012~2013. Why?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tFj9.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/N488f.png) | [
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"text": "A great story on the history of 3D printing is published by [3DSOURCED](https://www.3dsourced.com/guides/history-of-3... | 2021/03/06 | [
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15,815 | I want to be able to run my Chiron during night-time, but my neighbours tries to sleep at that time of day. I have put a lot of effort into making the printer silent. The controller-fan and power-supply-fan now run slower and only when needed, I have put the printer on those [damper feet](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3225296) found on Thingiverse, I have added rods to stabilize the gantry and I have switched to TMC2209 for X, Y and Z. I have made sure the TMCs are tuned for 24V and are using 'stealth chop' below 225 rpm (120 mm/s). The result is impressive compared to how noisy the printer was when I bought it.
One problem was not solved, when Y-axis moves at between 35 and 45 mm/s, the printer starts to loudly vibrate at 220 to 280 Hz. To mitigate that, I first tried to slow down printing, but then print quality was hurt by oozing. Now I have reverted back to my desired print speed, but limited Y-axis feed-rate in Manmil to 32 mm/s using `M203 Y 32`. It is quiet enough, but many movements are slowed down, affecting quality.
What can I do to stop or mute these vibrations?
**ADDED 2021-03-30**
I have no proper accelerometer, so I used a MPU6050 accelerometer and some code in an ESP8266. It samples roughly 400 times per second and gives a vibration-value that can be used to *estimate* the level of vibrations. It is not frequency-compensated, but gives a hint of what is happening. And it can be used to compare settings.
I also made a program based on an example in TMCStepper so I could run the stepper and see/change all settings. This program also relays the measurements from my accelerometer so I can make graphs.
To do this I removed the stepper from the chassis, as I need to be somewhat quiet when doing these tests. It looks like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MSc3m.jpg)
This graph sums up my findings pretty well:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5OYRE.png)
X-axis shows motor-speed in full steps per second, fsps. fsps corresponds to the frequency of the noises I want to conceal. 200 fsps = 1 revolution per second = 60 rpm. On Chiron Y-axis 60 rpm = 32 mm/s = F1920.
Y-axis is shown with the scale log10(accelerometer values).
Here are the TMC-settings I used during the tests, which are same/or close to what Manmil use for 24V Chiron:
(TPWMTHRS was set to 0 when I tested StealthChop)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bclvk.png)
What I read from this chart (and my many measurements):
TMC2209 is much quieter below 120 fsps.
StealthChop is fantastic at low speeds.
StealthChop shall ONLY be used at really low speeds in a 3D printer. If at all, since switching mode also is noisy.
SpreadCycle use 256 usteps/fstep. A4988 use 16 usteps/fstep. I think that is the reason for TMC to be more quiet at low speeds.
**What I do not understand:**
Why is TMC2209 seems to be more loud at higher speeds. It might make different vibrations that my makeshift accelerometer rates worse, of course. But can I have a defective TMC2209? Or are the BigTreeTech boards bad? Or have I got fake TMC2209 with worse performance? | [
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"text": "Have you tried a concrete tile for garden with foam below it?\n\nCheck <https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/reduce-your-3... | 2021/03/08 | [
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