qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
12,033 | I run a 3D printer farm and I have to replace my Bowden tubes on the printers after about a month or two of use(roughly 1000 hours of use). The Bowden tubes continually melt on the side of the tube very near to where it pushes against the nozzle. I am running Ender 3 Pros and I run at about 205 °C with PLA. The Bowden tubes I have are some I found on Amazon and they are not Capricorn tubes.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xnhmZ.png)
EDIT1: I have added more pictures below of a new failure. This time you can see the marks of the teeth of the coupler a good inch below the failure point.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPk6E.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/A3xXQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/P9l5a.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PB7Ox.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 12036,
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"text": "If the tube is PTFE, the tube is not likely to be melting unless your hotend temperature is out of control. You would ... | 2020/02/19 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12033",
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12,046 | I am Attempting to print this, from Blender
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kKdun.jpg)
But Cura decides to fill in the middle part of the model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1fj3T.png)
I exported and imported the model from an STL file.
If anyone can answer this, that would be greatly appreciated. | [
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"text": "I would recommend using an actual CAD/CAM program, such as Autodesk Fusion 360, instead of using a 3d model ... | 2020/02/21 | [
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12,051 | Recently I've been having trouble printing properly on my Creality Ender-3 printer. I ran a pretty long print (approx. 15 hours) that turned out really well. I then started printing an attachment for the original print and saw that it was printing layers that were extremely thin.
I first scraped off the excess filament left on the extruder nozzle. Then, I heated up the bed and rubbed off the layer with alcohol. I tried printing it again but it still didn't print right.
Thin layer
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z4wh5.jpg)
Weird thing
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jUTgb.jpg)
From the images above, you can tell it's noticeably hard to see the layer, which shows just how thin it is.
I sliced the model in Ultimaker Cura. I set the layer height to 0.15 mm. I've printed models before with this height but the layer wasn't transparent.
What should I do to fix this issue? | [
{
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"text": "If your first layer is more thin than you expect it to be, the bed is too close to the nozzle. Note that you need to... | 2020/02/22 | [
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12,056 | I've been trying to find a solution to a problem I've been having recently whereby the bottom layers of my print (1.2 mm; 12 layers) are either being compressed. over extruded or both. The problem results in the nozzle being dragged through previously extruded filament leaving deep groove marks and the bottom layers being risen/wavy, thus causing (I believe) the print layers to expand horizontally outwards
Settings are:
* Anycubic Chiron
* 0.1 mm layer height
* 200 °C hotends temperature
* 55 °C bed temperature
* 40 mm/s print speed
* eSun black 1.75 mm PLA
* Cura 4.4.1
It's less noticeable on less intrinsic prints but for my [latest project](https://forums.eagle.ru/showthread.php?t=260512), its becoming a real issue. The problem is that for the square holes for the buttons (of which there are a lot), the bottom layers are extruding (essentially elephants foot-ing) which is impacting the tolerances of the build (holes should be 13 mm to accept 12.5 mm square buttons but are coming out at ~12.7 mm only on the bottom layer, I've measured the walls of the square holes and they're coming out perfectly).
I've tried almost everything I can think of/find on Google:
1. Levelling the bed (multiple times)
2. Tried print temps from 190 °C to 210 °C (even printed a temp tower which confirmed printing at ~200 °C is correct for my filament (eSun black PLA)
3. Calibrated the extruder
4. Calibrated the Z-axis
5. Set different horizontal expansion settings in Cura
6. Reduced entire print flow rates (have tried 90 %, 85 % and 80 %); this somewhat worked but produced problems elsewhere in the print due to lack of material (skin overlap etc.)
7. Used the 'modify settings for overlap' mesh setting to reduce infill flow & inner wall flow to 45 % and 55 % respectively for the bottom layers (up to 1.2 mm).
The last point in that list is where I've had the most success but it does leave a slight indentation around the outer wall until the full flow rate kicks in (i.e. >1.2 mm) and I'm thinking there may be other things at play that are causing the issue and I shouldn't have to do this reduce bottom layer flow so much if at all.
Has anyone seen this before? | [
{
"answer_id": 12080,
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"text": "The first thing that comes to mind is that, even though you have levelled the bed, the print nozzle may be ... | 2020/02/23 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12056",
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12,067 | My problem is that I have used a 3D printing machine from the University and found out that the cover for the car was not smooth even after using sanding paper and painting it.
What material would work best to print the cover of the Cyber truck. I want it to be light and smooth.
I have to print it from any online companies that have this service here in Germany. | [
{
"answer_id": 12068,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
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"text": "I have 3D printed models which were then sanded using progressively finer grades of sandpaper, terminating with w... | 2020/02/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12067",
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12,072 | My model is a keycap for mechanical keyboards. There is the cap itself, and a stem with a hole in the form of a cross, which fits the switches themselves.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/r0Xxb.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DkBxu.jpg)
I print in the same position as it is intended to be used, top up. This means that the stem and the cap are not connected until quite a few print layers.
To prevent the stem from falling off during the print (it has a small footprint), I created connectors in the first layers, to hold it in place.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MXDEn.jpg)
The issue: it seems like all my prints have a rotation of the stem, compared to the cap. It probably rather is the cross-shaped hole, or its walls, that are not completely symmetrical. I do not think it is only the edges against the printing bed that are the cause, since I have trimmed them with a scalpel. The rotation is always in the same direction.
The twist is detectable when watching the keycap with the switch, and more so with keycaps on switches on a keyboard plate (you can see that the edges of the caps do not align. They do in my CAD program):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0aJ5S.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nvUvU.jpg)
I use Cura as my slicer, layer height 0.06 mm, and ABS. I attempted a slow print (30 mm/s), which didn't help.
The first work-around that comes to mind is to measure the twist and compensate for that in my model. But I believe that since the problem is in the printing process, the problem would best be solved in the slicer.
What could possibly be the issue? Is there an option is Cura to compensate for this? Short of the work-around mentioned above, what are other steps I should look into? | [
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"answer_id": 12073,
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"text": "This looks like a shift rather than a twist.\n--------------------------------------------\n\nLooking closely at the \... | 2020/02/25 | [
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12,087 | I am thinking to use closed-loop stepper motors to prevent step loss and make the machine more accurate. What options (preferably low cost) are there for:
`stepper motor + driver + encoder + microcontoller`
Is building it from scratch worth it? E.g. Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4/1.5/1.6 + stepper motors (e.g. NEMA17) + drivers (e.g. A4988, DRV8825) + encoders (e.g. AS5047P, AS5047D, AS5048A, TLE5012B) + microcontrollers (e.g. STM32). | [
{
"answer_id": 12088,
"author": "dex",
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"text": "A number of options exist, but keep in mind that cost will be a limiting factor.\n\n*(Small sidenote: cost depends on... | 2020/02/27 | [
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12,089 | I want to put a spiral lid on top of a container. When the lid opens, then the spiral mechanism will rotate into the container. Is there a name for this mechanism? If not, would something like this be possible? | [
{
"answer_id": 12090,
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"text": "No spiral lids that I know of. I'm not sure how they would work, anyway. There are plenty of designs with hemispheri... | 2020/02/27 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12089",
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12,097 | If I set my prints on the window sill (indoors) will the sunlight still be able to cure the resin? The problem with setting them outside is the wind knocking them over. | [
{
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"selected": true,
"text": "The glass will block most of the uv light; but not all. It will depend on the type of light that the resin is s... | 2020/02/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/12097",
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12,098 | I made a custom printer with RAMPS. I used Y-MIN endstop at beginning. After few prints I discovered that Y-axis was inverted (mirrored).
I fixed Marlin firmware and now I have:
```
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true
#define INVERT_Y_DIR false
#define Y_HOME_DIR 1
#define USE_YMAX_PLUG
```
I also connected the Y-endstop to Y-max pin on RAMPS.
Now the printer homing in the same direction than before (in front) and the y-endstop works as expected.
If I try to start printing or if I try to press the "center" button in Pronterface, the Y-axis moves in the wrong direction.
Can someone help me? | [
{
"answer_id": 12105,
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"text": "Usually I just flip the connector around on the board. This causes the stepper to reverse without fiddling aro... | 2020/02/28 | [
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12,099 | I've been noticing in some of my linear advance test towers that the (very minor/fine) ripple pattern in walls varies with the K factor, which made me think that it isn't coming from any vibration in the print head motion, but rather from quantization of the extruder into discrete steps (i.e. wall gets slightly thicker right after a step, thins out afterwards until the next step, repeats).
By my math, with 1.75 mm filament and 93 steps per mm on my printer (Ender 3), each step is 0.02585 mm³ of material. At 0.4 mm line width and 0.2 mm layer height, there's 0.08 mm³ of material per linear mm, so that should give roughly 3 extruder steps per linear mm. That seems comparable to the ripple rate I see, although not exact; I suppose it varies somewhat because of linear advance and perhaps other reasons.
Anyway, to get to the question, am I missing something or is this the limiting factor in print resolution on my printer? It seems like isolated small details (smaller than 1/3 mm) won't be extrudable at all except as ooze, or over-extruded if they happen to cross a step threshold, and like things would be far worse if I tried to use a smaller nozzle and thinner layers. It seems that, ideally, you'd want the E-axis steps per mm to be sufficiently high that quantization is a non-issue (i.e. +-1 step is small relative error) for extrusions corresponding to a single X- or Y-axis microstep. | [
{
"answer_id": 12102,
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"text": "Short answer\n------------\n\n*Usually* no.\n\nLong answer\n-----------\n\nThere are several big factors that limit ... | 2020/02/28 | [
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12,100 | I began build LCD printer and I want make some modifications.
What if I will place LCD below VAT[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tznt5.jpg)? Will the display break when printing? what are the risks?
I seen a lot of printers and all of them use PP material for VAT bottom and attach with a lot of screws. I want make more simple VAT-LCD constructions and I think this construction transmis UV light better | [
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"text": "Short answer\n------------\n\n*Usually* no.\n\nLong answer\n-----------\n\nThere are several big factors that limit ... | 2020/02/29 | [
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12,114 | A question to those who have a 3D printer. Have you ever needed a spare throat or a heater block? Do they ever break?
I just bought some spare parts: heaters, thermistors, nozzles... However, I am not sure if buying throats and heater blocks make any sense. | [
{
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"text": "Short answer\n============\n\nYes\n\nLong answer\n===========\n\nNeatul bocks\n------------\n\nA heater block is dest... | 2020/03/02 | [
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12,119 | [A part](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4195002) I've printed (on a Monoprice Maker Select V2, sliced with Cura) has a small peg on it, which is an unsupported overhanging section of the model.
The first few layers of the peg end up a mess of PLA spaghetti. Here I've rotated the part to get a better shot, normally it would be printed on its side.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lawtn.jpg)
I've done test prints that contain L-shaped overhangs and they worked ok, so I'm not sure what's broken about this one.
One guess I have is that because the peg is relatively low to the heated build plate, the material isn't cooling as quickly, and it needs to be more rigid in order for subsequent layers to print.
I also tried with supports but I found it too hard to remove. | [
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"text": "Unsupported parts need to be printed with support. If your supports are too hard to remove, try the Tree Support set... | 2020/03/02 | [
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12,122 | Printer: SecKit Go w/ BMG/v6 and SKR v1.3/TMC2130 Drivers
Slicer: Simplify3d or Cura (problem is much worse in Cura?)
Long story short - after getting this printer running, I have noticed that it will underextrude ONLY on corners on an internal perimeter specifically once we're above bottom layers - and nowhere else. See below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J9Y3r.jpg)
E-Steps have been calibrated, extrusion multiplier has been calibrated (single perimeters are 0.48 mm), linear advance has been calibrated, but here it gets weird. Anything resembling a 'standard' value (suggested between 1-2) results in MASSIVE underextrusion after the speed change. I was able to get a good looking line using the linear advance test with a value of 0.15 (which seems very low).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VvSl7.jpg)
Retraction (1 mm @ 30 mm/s), junction deviation (0.02) and all other settings are off the factory Simplify3d profile. Turning linear advance off makes the problem slightly better but doesn't fix it, going to a value of around 1 results in huge underextrusion after any change in direction.
I am absolutely lost as to what to try next. | [
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"text": "Unsupported parts need to be printed with support. If your supports are too hard to remove, try the Tree Support set... | 2020/03/04 | [
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12,165 | I'm getting a pet bird soon, and I know that off-gassing from heating PTFE above 300 °C creates noxious fumes, which are bird-killer1. To try to prevent even the chance of that I'm replacing my hotend with an all-metal one. I have an E3D v6 1.75 mm, which I noticed still uses a PTFE tube at the cold side (the 3 mm version apparently doesn't, but 1.75 mm filament is what my printer uses, so there we are).
If I'm reading the instructions correctly, it sounds like the heatsink shouldn't even get warm to the touch, and if that's the case I'm not worried as long as things go well. What I'm still worried about is what happens if the heatsink cooling fan fails. I plan to plug the fan into the always-on 12 V port on my board (SKR 1.3): if I do, then is it possible to set my firmware (currently Marlin 2.0.4.4) to stop a print if the fan fails?
If I can't get the firmware to stop on fan failure, then is there a 1.75 mm all-metal hotend out there that doesn't require the use of PTFE on the cold side?
---
1- [Here:](http://healthline.com/nutrition/nonstick-cookware-safety) "at temperatures above 570°F (300°C), Teflon [PTFE] coatings on nonstick cookware start to break down, releasing toxic chemicals into the air [(14)](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3276392/)" | [
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"text": "First of all, we need to discuss the failure mode and what can be done. LEt's do a\n\nFailure mode 1: coolend-fan sto... | 2020/03/11 | [
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12,168 | We are using the Board SKR 1.3 with the following pins:
```
/**
* Trinamic Stallguard pins
*/
#define X_DIAG_PIN P1_29 // X-
#define Y_DIAG_PIN P1_27 // Y-
#define Z_DIAG_PIN P1_25 // Z-
#define E0_DIAG_PIN P1_28 // X+
#define E1_DIAG_PIN P1_26 // Y+
```
We need a double Z motor, so We have defined the number of stepper drivers to 2 and it works like a charm:
```
#define NUM_Z_STEPPER_DRIVERS 2
```
Here is the problem, We need to have a single extruder with **two heating zones**, not a real second extruder. We have defined the number of extruders to 2:
```
#define EXTRUDERS 2
```
We want to reinforce that the second extruder does not exist, we only need the **second heating zone**. It's a big hotend with two different heating cartridges, that is, two different temperatures. So we do not need the stepper driver, only the temperature.
Then we get the following error messages:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5jNEg.png)
We have thought of enabling the chamber and use it's pin, but we got stuck with all the structure for it:
```
#define TEMP_SENSOR_CHAMBER 5
```
```
#define CHAMBER_MAXTEMP 250 // Extruder first temperature zone
```
```
#define HEATER_CHAMBER_PIN 24
``` | [
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"answer_id": 12169,
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"text": "I second the previous answer if running second Z motor in parallel, just split wires or buy adapter consi... | 2020/03/12 | [
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12,171 | In my custom printer I have probe and nozzle at same height and configured Marlin this way:
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 0 }
```
On the bed I've a 2 mm glass. How I need to change the configuration? Do I need to act adding a positive Z offset? like this?
```
#define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 43, -20, 2 }
``` | [
{
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"text": "No.\n===\n\nYou define the Z-Value of the Nozzle to Probe offset mainly to get avoidance of collisions, but it is ch... | 2020/03/13 | [
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12,188 | I notice that if I print from Cura without preheating the printer, it will first raise the bed temperature and then raise the extruder temperature. The G-code it generates is:
```
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
```
The "Preheat" feature of Cura presumably send the "set temperature" commands without the corresponding "wait" command.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to do something like this:
```
M104 S210 ; set hot end temperature to 210 C
M140 S55 ; set bed temperature to 55 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M109 S210 ; wait for hot end temperature to reach 210 C
M105 ; report temperatures
M190 S55 ; wait for bed temperature to reach 55 C
```
Then the bed and extruder heat up simultaneously, and we wait for the higher temperature one *first* assuming that the other will reach its target temperature in the meanwhile.
If this is sound, is there a way to set this in Cura, or would I need to submit a patch? | [
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"answer_id": 12190,
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"text": "I have an [open bug report/feature request](https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/issues/1... | 2020/03/15 | [
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12,191 | I'm using a 200x200 mm PCB Mk2B which connects to the MOSFET of the D8 pin on a RAMPS 1.4 shield. I used 12 V power source for heat bed so I connected positive to pin 1 and negative to both pin 2 & 3 of the bed. Heat bed worked properly. But the wires that connects power source to power supply pin on RAMPS were being heated badly. I think the problem is come from heat bed because when I unplugged heat bed, wires were cool down instantly.
Can someone helps me with this problem. I'm just a newbie in this area. | [
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12,201 | I have an Ender 3 and I have a problem with auto home. I use auto home and then level the bed with the wheels beneath the bed. I then start a print and the first layer is well above the bed. Perhaps about a millimeter. If I stop the print at this point and level the bed so that the first layer prints the normal paper width above the bed, everything works fine.
The stops for the 3 axes seem to be in the right places and there is nothing noticeable obstructing them. When I use auto home it does touch the stops at all 3 axes. My belts seem to be tight and there is no movement of the bed if I try to jiggle it with my hand.
Is there a way to adjust the Z axis so that the auto home elevation and the elevation of first layer of the print will be the same?
This is an example of the first lines of G-code:
```
;FLAVOR:Marlin
;TIME:4724
;Filament used: 1.70716m
;Layer height: 0.16
;MINX:96.551
;MINY:96.545
;MINZ:0.2
;MAXX:138.448
;MAXY:138.455
;MAXZ:100.4
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.5.0
M140 S50
M105
M190 S50
M104 S200
M105
M109 S200
M82 ;absolute extrusion mode
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
``` | [
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12,204 | I've got a peculiar issue today, and was looking for some help with it.
Of the six Ender 3s I manage at my college, one of them seems to be **stretching the Y axis** of all the prints I make with it.
Some points about the issue:
* It's variable, but is much more pronounced in larger prints:
+ A raspberry pi frame-mounted case I printed came out too long along the Y-Axis by over 2 mm.
+ To troubleshoot, I printed a calibration cube but the Y-axis was only 0.5 mm longer.
+ It seems to affect only part of some prints; a bit over half of the pi case was stretched, but a section at the top appeared normal (screw holes were perfect circles, but towards the other end they were ellipse-shaped).
* I tried tensioning the Y-belt, and while I noticed it was loose before tightening it, this didn't make a noticeable improvement.
* It doesn't occur in any of the other five Ender 3s, all of which are equal in modifications.
* A re-flash of the Marlin firmware didn't fix the issue. It's a preconfigured Marlin version that I pulled off github based on a recommendation. I flashed this version to try and solve the problem, the previous version was installed by the printers' previous caretaker but the new version didn't help (makes me think we might have both grabbed the same version).
* It means that I can no longer print any components that require high tolerances, as they simply won't fit together.
The most recent print was a 40 mm fan shroud for a "hero me" setup (which I'm working on installing on all six printers).
* I ran two of them, one on the printer with the issue and one on a perfectly functional printer.
* They were run this morning, in identical conditions and started at the same time.
* There are no other structural defects aside from the stretching, it simply looks like a normal, print but as if someone used the photoshop transform tool and pulled it.
Here is a side by side of the two finished prints, comparing them along both the X and Y axes. As you can see, the X axis is perfect on the problem print, but the Y is consistently stretched (visible in the shape of the round cone and the screwholes).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/75J8V.jpg)
This issue has been consistent and I'm honestly stumped, any help is appreciated! If anyone needs me to obtain more documentation or test something, I'll be back in with the printers in the morning (roughly when this post is 10 hours old) and I'm happy to get any documentation needed. | [
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"text": "It is likely you have PU belt and it is likely it stretched in some area. I had all my PU belts finally s... | 2020/03/19 | [
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12,206 | Have people been using 3D printing to genuinely create a number of needed objects in their homes, and if so, what? Or is 3D printing better for special niche interests like art projects, home engineering projects, etc? | [
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12,226 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WwWuN.jpg)
So these past few days I have been 3D printing again with my Ender 3 with PETG and 0.4 mm nozzle and while I have been using the same setting as usual I am seeing an unusual amount of stringing between the prints. Does anyone know why? If you're wondering regarding the settings here they are, I'm using Cura for slicing, see options:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ialqzm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tc2Blm.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3SpNZm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6H1M6m.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0KMAQm.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xWib6m.png) | [
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"text": "Petg it stringy material, all I can do is keep it dry to prevent blob. but I live in hot country with high moistur... | 2020/03/22 | [
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12,229 | I am working on a project that requires an enclosure that I am thinking to prototype using a 3D printer (which is pretty easy and overall awesome).
My question is simply whether this same model can be used later on for mass production (i.e. mold injection)? What adjustment (if any) need to be done to model between prototype and mass.prod. stages? What areas in design to look out for that can make model viable for 3D printing non-viable for mass production? | [
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"text": "That's a hard No.\n\nModels used in industrial injection molding are very specific to the process sometimes e... | 2020/03/23 | [
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12,235 | I want to make an order with this configuration
* Arduino MEGA 2650 R3
* Ramps 1.6 Plus
* 2 TMC2130
* 2 Stepper motors 17hs3401
* 1 Fan
But I am not sure what voltage and current would be enough to make it work. The Ramps 1.6+ board has an input of 12V as you can see in the picture, but I have read that [other people](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/9911/tmc2130-external-vm-ramps1-4) had to increase the voltage with a DC-DC converter.
So, would be 12V and 15A enough to make work that configuration? | [
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"text": "The easiest way to know how powerful the PSU should be is to download from <https://github.com/rcarlyle/StepperSim> th... | 2020/03/24 | [
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12,249 | I have the original Prosi i3m3 printer. Prosi recommends cleaning the bed before each print with isopropanol (isopropyl alcohol), with only occasional cleaning with acetone. The textured bed prohibits using acetone.
Given the SARS-COV-2 situation and COVID-19, isopropanol is impossible to find, and will not be in stock on shelves in the US for months.
What would you suggest as an alternative that might still be found on store shelves? | [
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"text": "**Ethanol** (Ethyl Alcohol) should work just fine as long as it's around 80% or more. It's very similar to isopropan... | 2020/03/26 | [
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12,258 | I work with Fusion360 for designing lots of things. Recently I learned how to work with parameters that I can easily modify all at once, allowing to pretty much make easily customizable pieces.
Now, Thingiverse wants customizer pieces in the shape of `.SCAD` files, and some people just can't work with Fusion360 (`.F3D`) or proper `.STEP` files that can be imported by most CAD programs.
I have no experience with OpenSCAD. Can I import my `.STEP` into openSCAD, retain my parameters and export it as a `.SCAD`, and if yes, how? | [
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"text": "No, you cannot import STEP nor Fusion360 files in OpenSCAD.\n\nOpenSCAD [currently supports](https://en.wikibooks.or... | 2020/03/27 | [
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13,269 | I'm new to 3D printing and have bought an Ender 3. I have printed a few good prints but I'm noticing a worsening issue:
When I select "autohome" the axes head towards their limit switches, but the y axis in particular seems to slam into the limit switch, bending it away, meaning that the platform bounces off and doesn't activate the limit switch a second time
This causes the machine to slam against the back over and over until the limit switch is triggered or power is removed.
I've replaced the limit switch twice
I've tried supergluing the limit switch to its PCB but even with a needle and patience this caused the limit switch to be ruined
What can I do?
Edit: Here are some photos of the switch (2nd replacement). The OEM switch also did the same thing, but I don't have photos of that. The screws are loose in these photos, but this is just because my Ablan key is lost - the previous two switches had the screws reasonably tightened with the correct Ablan key, provided in the box[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/myOyr.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LJ7vM.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/C3JHa.jpg) | [
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13,270 | I use an Ender 3, with cheap Amazon "Eryone PLA", which states a range from 190-220 °C, 1.75 mm dia. I have had this for about a year.
I use the rough build plate, not the glass. I have tried my best to level the bed but I am an amateur
I was originally getting poor adhesion so I cleaned the bed, levelled it, increased filament temp to 196 °C and heated the bed to 40 °C, with no fans in a house around 20 °C with not much airflow.
This helped adhesion, but my layers are very messy - the first perimeter may adhere correctly, but subsequent layers curl off, meaning the inner passes lift off the build plate. Attempting to persevere, pulling out these regions causes the blobby, ridged mess shown below. This is still the first layer.
I have noticed the extruder makes a knocking noise every so often, and the edges of prints can be so thin they are translucent.
I've browsed the web for common 3D printing errors but nothing I've found or tried has helped.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tOT5H.jpg) | [
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13,271 | I am trying to import an STL file, I created in FreeCAD. It has a hole in the hull of the object and behind that hole there are two pins inside the object (see attached FreeCAD screenshot).
When I import the STL in Cura, there are no walls around the whole object where there is the hole in the hull (see attached Cura screenshots). However the wall and the hole are visible in light grey, Cura just doesn't print it.
Update:
I understand the problem. It's not a watertight solid. I found a way to import it somewhat fine using meshmixer to create a hollow with an offset which makes the outer Buxl actually have a thickness to it. Now the problem is, that's not really what I want. The result in cura now can't be printed with infill since the actual inside of the model is only within the walls. Also cura sees both sides of the wall as outer Perimeter. I understand the problem but actually am looking for a way to just prevent printing part of the regular model's wall.. In other words: I would basically like to set the whall line count to zero in that particular area. I just tried to use the support blocker and "Modify settings for overlap" but that doesn't do anything.
CURA:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hrCAY.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7ETuW.png)
FreeCAD:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Lddxh.png) | [
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13,273 | I fired up my printer again last night to print something (Printrbot LC that I have customized), and happened to notice the Octopi instance still had a file that I printed ~5 years ago. Also, I noticed i had files from ~2013 when I got started. My printer is from that time, so keep that in mind.
I've noticed that sometimes I will see a Y axis shift, and then the print will correct itself. It did it again last night. Since this had happened before, I thought maybe the wires for the heated beds were getting snagged on something, so I made sure they were out of the way, and made sure they had proper strain relief before printing [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3086428/files).
However, about 1 cm up the Z axis, my print had a 1-2 mm shift of the Y axis for ~2-3 mm, and then corrected\* itself somehow.
**The Question**
----------------
What is this kind of problem called? What should I look for to try to troubleshoot it? Let's make sure to include the possibility that one of my upgrades has gone awry to leave no stone unturned.
Stay on Target
--------------
My printer probably also has other problems, and that's fine to point them out after addressing my primary concern.
\*Almost completely corrected itself. Maybe .5-1 mm off.
This is the print.
------------------
It'll be serviceable after some filing. It's from this thing.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hNd6N.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JY1sE.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7N2kh.jpg)
This is my printer
------------------
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VGxe3.jpg)
Upgrades
--------
* Printrbot LC, I want to say I bought in 2010. It was a kit and I assembled it.
* This pic is from 2014 and it's about the same.
* I've extended the physical Z height, but supposedly the firmware needs to be updated to make use of it. I would still need to adjust the wiring too.
* I've extended the Y axis (front to back).
* As part of extending the Y axis, I added a 2nd heated bed. It's not plugged in, and I only use the one which is the one closest to the camera. There is room for a 3rd bed, but that was an accidental bit of engineering.
* There was a lot of bow in the bed, even with the added support. I manually adapted [this thing](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:55053) to add in a bearing to support the bed near where the hotend was. Manually with a dremel, super glue, etc.
* I have noticed a clicking where the support bearing touches a screw holding the aluminum rail to the wood, but that would only impact prints for the second bed. The print I am asking about was in the middle of the primary bed, and far away from this.
* I updated the belt and pulley to the G2(?) belts. Those are standard now, but this was an upgrade for this bot.
* I added an additional support bearing for the hotends, which reduced the X axis slightly.
* Added fans for the part and the incoming filament.
Misc
----
* Bed is manually leveled by adjusting screws and nuts
* Wnass is held to the bed by small aligator clips
* I print on bare glass with purple glue
* I am using PLA+, hotend at 220 °C, and bed at 60 °C
* I have an old version of OctoPi on a Raspberry Pi 1 controlling the printer
* I sliced last night with Cura 4.1.0
* I use 3 mm filament
* Printer has a .4 or .5 mm hotend, whatever was stock (I don't recall, and I don't see the setting in Cura)
* Printing at .2 mm height
* I have noticed some wear on the 3D printed gears for the extruder, but they still seem to be working. I've been meaning to print some spares, and have printed a spare bigger one in case they fail.
* The printer has wooden 1x4 supports in one corner, so none of the PVC cage moves at all now. It didn't move much before unless I was pushing on it.
* I printed and screwed in some stops that go around the feet of the printer to prevent it from moving around.
* The printer is very rigid with the above feet stops, the wooden supports, and the ~20lb roll of filament on top of the Z axis.
* The y axis has some friction and some spots are tighter than others, so I will keep looking at the mechanics of the bed to see what I can do.
Things I have tried so far
--------------------------
* Tried multiple things at a time, because screw science lol. Close to order of operations below, but not perfect.
* Upgraded Cura to 4.5.0
* Printed multiple times. Still have the problem.
* Rotated print by 180 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height. Towards the Y axis zero.
* Adjusted flow to 97%, so now I'm not overextruding. The screw holes come out as screw holes, and the top surface looks mostly normal. Once I'm done with this print, I might try 95%.
* Cut a zip tie that may have been catching on bed clips.
* Added more clips to hold the glass to the bed. Removed old clips that were worn out and may have been impacting the gantry.
* Adjusted the tension on the screw that holds the bed and the guide rods, to reduce friction of the guide rods and their bearings. This reduced friction, but did not have an effect on the print.
* Rotated print by 90 degrees. Same problem in same direction, at same height.
* Watched the printer as it was printing the strange part. There were no mechanical collisions, and things seemed normal.
More thoughts
-------------
* I will look into spinning up a new Octoprint server on a newer Raspberry Pi to see if that helps.
* I am having a hard time finding examples of layer shift that didn't 100% kill the print. The fact that this corrects itself makes me think it's not the usual mechanical problems associated with layer shift.
* I have added the other thing to the print (from the same designer and thing page), and we'll see if they both have the problem, or what else might happen.
Updated pics
------------
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OJzOR.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9tVqp.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Yd97B.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QPShI.jpg) | [
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13,275 | I'm new to 3D Printing and recently purchased an Ender 3D PRO I'm having an issue with the filament guide tube getting pushed out of the nozzle on the feeding mechanism. The assembly instructions don't include a whole lot of detail about installing this guide tube but there are blue clips that were included along with the spare nozzle. There are no instructions on where to use these blue clips and I have a hunch this might be the problem. | [
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13,282 | Recently my RAMPS power connector caught fire while heating the heated bed. I suspect this was a defect caused by the connector, and de-soldered/removed it as best I could. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I'm looking for advice on whether It is possible to re-solder the power connectors directly onto the board, or I'm just risking another fire. Here are pictures of the top and bottom.
 | [
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13,294 | I usually use `Slic3r 1.3` but now I'm trying the new `ProsiSlicer 2.2` that offers new features.
I see that ProsiSlicer creates a lot of support material when compared to `Slic3r`:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rQxar.jpg "screenshot comparison of Slic3r and ProsiSlicer sliced 3D model")
this involves two problems:
1. A lot of material is wasted
2. The structure is very difficult to separate from the model
This is my configuration panel in Prosi:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lRm2K.jpg "Screenshot of ProsiSlicer configuration panel")
Is it just a settings problem? | [
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13,305 | Would it be posible to design something that is as flexible and that can be printed with PLA that would work as a cloth? I did some research and found that there was a company named Electroloom but that didn't make it. I'm not looking for anything fine, just something that would work for wiping | [
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"text": "Maybe you would be better off with TPU or some other type of flexible material...\n\nI have been able to print P... | 2020/04/02 | [
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13,330 | My printer is calibrated for a certain clearance from the heated bed, which is chosen based on PLA.
I would like to try to increase it for the first layer for PETG, so that adhesion is reduced. The printer has M5 screws with 4000 steps/mm, so the resolution clearly allows that.
I don't want to modify the printer, I would like a G-Code or another option that I can apply in Prosi slicer in association with the specific filament when desired. I don't want to change the flow rate of the first layer, only the "zero" distance.
How can I do that? | [
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13,349 | Specifically using stainless steel nozzles, but I guess it's worth knowing about brass too. Is there any reason to be concerned about dimensional accuracy of the nozzle or anything like that as a result of repeated heating with a butane torch? | [
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"text": "If you carbonize the filament or other particles that are clogging the nozzle, then you will never get them cl... | 2020/04/06 | [
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13,376 | I'm having some issues with my Prosi i3 prints. I'm trying to print the default beer opener print that came with the Prosi's memory card but the infill will break causing clogging and now allowing the print to finish. I've attached a picture of one of the failed prints.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JNPn4.jpg)
I've checked Prosi's website and tried tightening the extruder gears and made sure the gears are clean. I'm using the PLA sent with the printer (1.75 mm) and with a default G-code file so I'm fairly sure it is a hardware issue, but I'm not sure what the issue could be.
[Here is the link](https://blog.prusaprinters.org/7-problems-affecting-quality-of-3d-prints/) that I've used to help me troubleshoot. | [
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13,380 | I'm looking to print this item:
>
> <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4274950>
>
>
>
I want to lay it flat on the bed, 90° to how it's shown on Thingiverse. The problem is there's the one little corner on the end of the piece. When placed flat, this corner makes one side of arch. During the print, this section will build up to have much more material up in the air over a relatively small contact point, until the archway is connected.
I'm worried the section will shake loose from the bed. Is it possible to tell Cura to put a brim around just this section, and not the whole piece?
If I have to, I can edit the model the include 0.13 mm thick section there as part of the file. But I'd prefer to slice for this. | [
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13,382 | I've already asked this question somewhere else but unfortunately I had little luck.
So... my Ender 3 Pro extruder just started skipping steps, as in the gears (and the gear pinion) will rotate but the filament won't flow. It all started when I changed PLA filament to a new roll; I thought it might have been the roll faulty so I've tried a spool that had been working fine until 2 hours before it all started. Nope, skipping with that one as well.
Here's what I've tried doing so far:
* Replaced the stock PTFE tubing with Capricorn tubing.
* Checked that the tubing is tight and does not have play.
* Replaced the whole extruder system (except for the extruder motor) with a metal Creality system.
* Performed various cold pulls.
* Replaced the nozzle.
* Upped the extruding temperature from 195 °C to 205 °C.
* Checked that there's the correct distance between the bed and the nozzle.
* Yelled at the printer.
* Asked for advice to my cats.
None of the above worked, and my cats looked funny at me. Print settings as below:
* Filament diameter in the slicer 1.75mm (yes I've checked).
* Temperature: 195 °C, upped to 205 °C.
* Print speed: from 20 mm/s for the first layers to 50 mm/s for the infill.
I've also reverted back to the old PTFE tubing as I noticed that the Capricorn was giving too much resistance to the filament. Nope, still skipping.
I've noticed that the extruder gear grips quite firmly onto the filament, so much so that when it starts slipping it actually eats away the filament until it breaks. It's almost like there's a clog somewhere but the tubing is clear, the hot end is clear (I've cleared it and checked multiple times), and the nozzle is brand new.
What else can I try? Have I missed something? Apart from the changes listed above (carried out after the extruder started skipping), the printer is absolutely stock, firmware and everything.
**UPDATE:** I've changed the factory hot end bloc with a brand new one, changed PTFE tubing one again, making sure it's as close as possible to the nozzle (unscrew nozzle 1/2 turn, fit PTFE, screw nozzle in) but it didn't change anything at all.
The extruder still skips steps as it can't push the filament out of the nozzle. Pushing it manually feels nice and smooth until it hits the nozzle, where I can feel too much resistance.
**UPDATE 2:** I've modifed the following parameters on the EEPROM to limit the filament flow:
```
M203 Z5.00 E25.00
M201 E1000
```
I've also crancked the temperature up to 220°C but it made no difference whatsoever. What I've noticed is that, after cleaning hot end and tubing, it starts skipping after 1 hour of printing, every single time without fail.
**UPDATE 3:** I've checked the input voltage from the PSU and it's 24V; the Vref for the extruder is 0.744V, so everything looks as expected.
**UPDATE 4:** The extruder idler pulley has a compression washer to hold it in place without impeding idle spinning; it is usually mounted in the order idler pulley, compression washer and bolt. I've noticed that the pulley wasn't spinning freely this way, so I inverted the order to compression washer, idler pulley and bolt. The bolt head is small enough not to stop the pulley from spinning.
I've also increased the pressure the spring arm excise on the idler pulley, so that the toothed pulley grips more firmly on the filament.
This way I've managed to improve things although not solve them. It's been printing for the last 3 and a half hour without skipping but it's not a solution, as the toothed gear is chewing too aggressively on the filament. In just one hour a good deposit of PLA shavings has formed on the extruder, and I had to blow it away, and this never happened before this all started. | [
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13,385 | I'm printing stacked Prusa COVID-19 face shields on a modded Ender 3. It works fairly well until the second layer of masks, where we get this weird effect that's kind of like stringing. It looks like the curve is becoming "low poly." I'm sorry that I can't be more specific, but I really don't know how to describe it more than this. Please look at the pictures to get more info.
One of the strangest things is that it worked earlier with the same slicer and the same profile. I am using PrusaSlicer, but I tried it with Cura and it still didn't work. There are a few more problems with the prints: some under-extrusion on the supports, and some spots had little gaps between the layers.
Does anyone have any fixes for any of these problems? I would mainly like to know about the strange kind of stringing because that actually prevents me from stacking prints.
I am printing Overture PETG at 240 on the nozzle and 80 on the bed. This is at a speed of 50 mm per second. I have the Basaraba Innovations direct drive mod, the Creality silent board with TH3D Unified Firmware based on Marlin 1.1.9, and the EZABL Pro.
Please look at the pictures to see what is happening.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VBYu2.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/koHSS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TveJc.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/urpmX.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iOLcQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/T21Ng.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMDNI.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9PnvN.jpg) | [
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13,412 | PLA has a heat capacity of [1.8-2.1 J/g-K](https://www.sd3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/MaterialTDS-PLA_01.pdf), while [PETG 1.1-1.3 J/g-K](http://www.matweb.com/search/datasheet_print.aspx?matguid=4de1c85bb946406a86c52b688e3810d0). This means that each gram of PLA needs more energy to heat up. I assume no "melting latent energy", since we talk about plastics.
The density is about the same.
Still, printing speed for PETG is said to be kept at max at 60 mm/s, while PLA can easily go up to 100 mm/s.
Why is PETG supposed to be printed slower than PLA?
Edit: a link to a more recent question may be of interest: [Power consumption of filament extrusion](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10173/power-consumption-of-filament-extrusion/10175?noredirect=1#comment30444_10175) | [
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"text": "The density of PLA is around 1.25 g/cm³ and the density of PETG is around 1.38 g/cm³. When y... | 2020/04/14 | [
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13,423 | On my Monoprice Mini Select v2 there is poor adhesion when the print head goes to put down a new layer on the bed as seen in the photo. Does anyone have a fix for this?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NVbXE.jpg) | [
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"text": "You could try a higher bed temp, but also check to make sure bed is levelled all round as this can somet... | 2020/04/15 | [
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13,432 | I have two options - to buy either the Ender 3 or the Mega Zero. I'm heading towards Ender 3 because the Mega Zero doesn't have a heated bed.
My question is, how is a printer without a heated bed (the Mega Zero) a better option than one with a heated bed (the Ender 3)?
Why would I even consider buying a printer without a heated bed when the Ender 3 can do the same things **and** has a heated bed? I want be able to print not only PLA but other materials as well. Doesn't the Mega Zero limit you to using only PLA? | [
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"text": "Lack of a heated bed does not necessarily limit you to using PLA. I would say (among those I'... | 2020/04/16 | [
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13,436 | The heater cartridge on my CR10 V2 broke so I ordered a new one(12V). After replacing it the new one heats of very quickly past the target temperature and the slowly decreases to the target. Once it hits the target temp it goes up and down by 10 °C or so during prints. During the prints there is under extrusion. I read that if the filament gets hot too high up the hotted it could cause clogs. I replaced the nozzle as well and cleaned out everything.
Some things that I think may have an effect:
1. Could the new heater cartridge not be compatible?
2. does a poor solder job with heater cartridge wires have an effect
3. It's possible I messed up the thermistor when replacing heater cartridge, could that explain whats happening?
4. Is there anything else in the hot end assembly such as fans that would cause this? | [
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"text": "This sounds as if you have bought an incorrect heater element, e.g. one for 12 V instead of 24 V. The CR-10 uses 24 ... | 2020/04/17 | [
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13,457 | I´ve tried tunning printer settings with different Nozzle(190-210 ºC)/ Bed(0-60 ºC) Temperatures, Fan Speeds (0-100 %), Cura and SlovenTf adjustemens but nothing worked. I still get the same bubbles in the first 3 mm of every print.
I also tried a glass bed and the magnetic bed that comes with Ender 3 pro and the result is still the same.
The last thing I tried was moving the 0 position of the Z axis 10 mm up, but it didn´work.
What else could I try? Any idea of which could be the issue. Thanks in advance.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xpCwy.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Q32Pv.jpg) | [
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"text": "It seems like your bed might be too close to the nozzle, hence the large elephants foot (bulge on the first... | 2020/04/19 | [
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13,466 | Does a filament exist that can resist ozone (like certain silicone tubing's can). Most glass bottles come with tin or plastic screw hard tops and I would like to replace the screw caps with something that is more resistant to ozone.
The reason for this is I make my own homemade ozonated oil in glass bottles and I would like to print out different hard screw top caps for some of the bottles. | [
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"text": "If making your own caps ends up being the best solution, TPU (thermoplastic polyurethane) is ... | 2020/04/20 | [
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13,469 | I've found many Youtube videos of makers upgrading to BLTouch sensor.
I have a Creality CR-10S Pro, so far bed leveling hasn't been an issue (after some days of trial and error).
My question is what are the problems/issues users need to face in order to need (or justify) an upgrade? | [
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"text": "I don't know your printer but I don't have BLtouch, and I have to set the height every time because the bed expands w... | 2020/04/20 | [
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13,472 | * I am curious, what is the purpose of printing a single-height outline around the objects to be printed?
* Also, how would it affect the outline if the object to be printed extends to (very near) the very edge of the print area?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vEr8Z.png)
Update, I received a hint that an existing question has the answer; that link was not really to my satisfaction -- but it did link to another one that did: [What are main differences between rafts, skirts and brims?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/20/what-are-main-differences-between-rafts-skirts-and-brims) | [
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13,475 | Are there any defacto standards for interfacing between common 3D printers and custom extruders or other tooling? I was thinking how it would be good to have switchable nozzle widths mounted on the same heat block and switched between using a solenoid so you could have say a 0.25 mm for surface layer and details, then swap to 0.6 mm for the infill.
What would be the path of least resistance so it could be accessed in generic firmware?
The design I was thinking would be similar to a generic aluminium heat block with two nozzles screwed in side by side with there inputs meeting in an inverted Y junction with its center drilled out and replaced by a rod with appropriate channeling to divert the already molten plastic between nozzles. Turning the rod would be done from a solenoid mounted somewhere behind the heat-break.with a clamping mechanism. | [
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13,491 | Before it stopped working, the stepper motor worked very well and didn't show any problem. I experienced this after I fixed a filament problem. The filament got stuck soI retracted to pull the filament out of the heat nozzle. But when I finished this, the extruder didn't work anymore...
I restarted the system but it didn't work. All the motors work fine, even the extruder motor. The A4988 driver has the right voltage at 1.0 - 1.2 V. I have already replaced my RAMPS shield and AtMega board, but it still does not work! I changed the extruder motor to another axis port and it worked good. The voltage input is stable at 11.2 V
I can't figure out why the extruder motor is not working for the extruder port? | [
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13,499 | I just got into 3D printing with an Ender-3 Pro. The test dog printed great, some custom small/thin objects printed good, and now I tried my first big object.
Designed in Tinkercad ([link to my (updated) design](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/1JZRKfOQHxr)), exported to .stl, sliced and printed using Cura 4.5.0 with the default 0.2 mm profile (3 layers wall thickness) and 100% infill (for strength), with the extruder at 200 °C and bed at 50 °C. Ambient temperature had been 25-ish °C.
The filament is a brand-new Spectrum Premium PLA (Arctic White). On its box it says it prints at 185-215 °C.
So I got this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z76pt.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7oAAI.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xjdhi.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LY4Li.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3lLI8.jpg)
The top (thinner) sections look OK-ish (there are some visible lines, but meh), but the transition from the bottom sections (thick) to the top has terrible layer separation and warping problems. One side of the base is actually barely holding together when I'm holding it. There is also a smaller problem mid-way at that side of the base, but it's not catastrophic.
1. Why did that happen? What did I do wrong? How can I print it again and get it nice and strong?
~~2) I have a handheld "3D print pen". If I use it to fill the gaps manually, how strong will the part be? The part is meant to "hug" the iPad charging port, so that you can hold the iPad in the bed while charging, without pressing the cable on your body and damaging it.~~ nvm that
---
Using wall thickness of 4, layer height 0.16 mm, 30% infill and 205 °C extruder, this is my (successful) result.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/518RF.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b3BDb.jpg)
---
I also repaired that broken part. Did it for the aesthetics, but it feels quite strong.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6t2Zb.jpg) | [
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"text": "The reason for this sort of error might be either \n1) a clogged nozzel, [try doing this](https://www.youtube.co... | 2020/04/23 | [
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13,503 | I've got a Renkforce RF1000 which should be a good 3D printer. I got it second-hand for my birthday one year ago. I've got no way of contacting the old owner.
I spend a good amount of hours fine-tuning the slicer settings last year but at best got mediocre prints. Between September and a week ago I lived somewhere else and didn't touch my printer.
Now here's what I don't know:
* I don't know what parts are replaced
* I don't know what my nozzle size is
* I don't know if the limit switches are calibrated correctly
+ Though I think they are. This doesn't seem to be a problem. I did re-calibrate the Z-axis
Here are some important details:
* I use 3 mm Renkforce PLA filament which I print at 190 °C on a bed heated at 60 °C. The PLA is over one year old now.
* There's a fan on the motor on top that isn't connected to anything.
Here are some of the problems I've got:
* I've had multiple prints failing due to the extruder not working properly. The motor keeps on spinning but the "feed knurl" remains stationary
* I can't seem to get the right extraction settings
* I can't seem to get my prints to consistently stick. It tends to work when I heat the bed to 60 °C and use glue and get lucky.
Feel free to give any thoughts you've got. These are the most important questions I've got:
1. Should I replace the nozzle with [this one](https://www.conrad.com/p/renkforce-nozzle-v2-03-mm-suitable-for-3d-printer-renkforce-rf1000-renkforce-rf2000-1296238?searchTerm=renkforce%20nozzle&searchType=suggest&searchSuggest=product) so that I know what nozzle I've got and so I'm sure this isn't a problem?
2. Should I replace the filament with new 1.75 mm PLA? If so, why?
3. How do I fix the extruder?
* I tried getting the "feed knurl" off but can't seem to do this easily. I've got some super glue I could try to put in there but something's telling me this might be a very bad idea...
4. Is the unconnected fan important and if so: what do I do with it? There's no remaining wire to connect it to.
5. How tight should the 4 screws that hold the filament between the extruder and the rolling disk be?
For now, these are all hardware problems. I can post my Slic3r settings too but I believe the hardware should be fixed before going into slicer settings.
Here are some pictures showing the problems:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynZ9v.jpg)
This is the extruder. The feeding mechanism can be seen in front. It shows the "feed knurl" of which the inside spins while the outside remains stationary (question 3). Next to it are 4 screws which determine how tight the filament is held against the extruder (question 5). On the back it shows a black fan, this got placed by the previous owner but isn't connected (question 4).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Cu0UM.jpg)
This image shows the unconnected fan (question 4) to the right. Behind it is the motor that's connected to the extruder. The motor works but the extruder doesn't spin with it. The extruder has a little black hole on top.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WyWj2.jpg)
This shows the extruder from the front. The inner layer spins, the outer layer doesn't (question 3)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/yZd1o.jpg)
These are some of the prints when the extruder was still working.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zdToY.jpg)
Nozzle and print bed (question 1) | [
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"text": "The reason for this sort of error might be either \n1) a clogged nozzel, [try doing this](https://www.youtube.co... | 2020/04/23 | [
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13,519 | I recently purchased a BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 and need to adjust some of the settings in configuration h to accommodate for my custom built 3d printer. In the past I've used the RAMPS 1.4 board and adjusted the firmware in the arduino IDE. What is the best way/recommended way to do this for the mini E3 V1.2.
Thanks. | [
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"text": "Basics\n======\n\nFirmware can be distributed in 2 ways:\n\n* As a compiled file (for example as .hex).\n* As an unco... | 2020/04/25 | [
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13,523 | I'm new to printing resin miniatures for Dungeons & Dragons and most of my prints are successful, i.e. one or more miniatures print as expected.
However when I have multiple minis on the build plate the one in the middle works okay but the ones on the edges don't adhere to the build plate.
Should I limit myself to one or two minis in the center of the build plate? Or should it work and I just need to get my settings correct?
Note I'm using a Beam 3D Prism printer. | [
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"text": "You can definitely print full build plates of minis. You just need to find correct settings. If nothing... | 2020/04/25 | [
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13,526 | I was just about to start using my 3D printers heated bed to warm a chemical reaction in a container and was thinking it would be great to be able to get the bed stepping back and forth to stir the pot.
Can anyone already up to speed in programming G-code walk me through a quick and dirty way to get the X-axis on my old Printrbot metal doing a couple of micro-steps either way in an endless loop? Or suggest some software out there that could achieve the same effect? | [
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"text": "Never mind, figured the quickest dirtiest way myself - created a tall thin cylinder shape model in Blender and p... | 2020/04/26 | [
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13,559 | I have been working hard the last year on the model below. I am new to everything 3D that is modeling and especially 3D printing. I have however successfully concluded quite a good number of 3D prints which I created in blender with my Creality Ender 3 Pro so I have a bit of experience.
All this new experience for me started with the desire to do this project I have been working on for all this year. A complex 3D model of a knight's tomb which I would like to print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NZ5Lx.png)
As you can see Cura is clearly indicating that there is a need for supports in these red areas. The model will be printed in a 15 cm size. I have also managed to resize the model from a 22 million face mesh full of holes to a 900k manifold model.
However, when I slice it I get this.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fx5o8.jpg)
As you can see supports are only generated for the outer column part. None are generated for the arches which are totally absent when the model is sliced.
I have tried to alter the model's orientation but with no result. I will try to separate this mesh in parts but it would mean restarting all from scratch since I found no good software to slice it precisely.
I am quite sure that the main problem lies in the fact the Ender 3 pro is an FDM printer an that the vertical lines of the arches are too thin. Since I tried to upload my model on 3D printing services to see if it could be printed in other materials and could be printed in finely detailed resin.
I would like at least to know if I am right in my problem spotting or if there could be any solution to the present problem so that not to go wrong if I will redesign this part. | [
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13,572 | I'm working on a project with will be buried in soil. It's an enclosure for a sensor that will be potted inside the 3D printed part. What filament will give me the longest life in soil?
ETA: burial will be permanent, and I'd like it to last at least five years.
ETA: The printed part will provide mechanical support for the sensor, so it needs to retain most of its mechanical properties. | [
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"text": "If TPU ends up not being rigid enough for you:\nI've had good enough luck with ABS coated in automotive RTV.\n\nThi... | 2020/05/02 | [
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13,576 | I’m new to 3D printing and have the Creality Ender 3 Pro. I work a lot with clay for earrings and wanted to design my own cutters with a sharp edge to create clean shapes.
I use PLA and have been using the speed and nozzle (0.4 mm) that was already set when I bought it. It’s been creating fine edges but I’d like to make it a lot sharper. Using the instructions from videos I saw online, I created the following "U" shape (extrusion of .5 mm Is the “cutting edge”. I started getting some weird bubbles too and am not sure what has created that either (see pic).
I use Fusion 360 to make the cookie/clay cutter and then send it to Ultimaker Cura to slice.
Any help with how to make it sharper and more clean cuts would be great!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0uMjD.jpg "Cookie/clay cutter form") | [
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13,583 | I'm looking to increase the printing speed, through increasing the volumetric flow rate, which is currently at 5 mm³/s. Larger amounts cause the feeding mechanism to skip steps.
I'm running at 190 °C, which helps with easier bridging less stringing and personally see no reason to increase the temperature to the popular 205 °C.
So, my thought process is the following: since I run at lesser temperature, there is still potential for the heating block to provide more heat and I need a longer nozzle to accumulate more heat and provide more surface area for transfer to the fillament (PLA), to speed up the melting of the plastic inside the nozzle (*which seems to be the bottleneck*).
*That's similar to using larger tips for soldring iron, when faced with heating up large surfaces in order to desolder something large, since we need to stay at precise temperature, and need to increase the heat supply as well.*
The suggested solution is to switch to the E3D's Volcano "everything included" kit. Which is nice and cool, but I don't think it's that necessary.
* Is it possible to just switch to a volcano nozzle? (Manufacturer#: VOLCANO-NOZZLE-175-0400)
* Would it actually noticeably help to increase the extrusion speed?
*Current setup:*
* *Ender 3 Pro, no mods*
* *Classic 0.4 mm nozzle* | [
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13,585 | I have an Ender 3, I got a new glass bed, the bed comes with glue on the back.
Should I stick the glass bed to the aluminium base? or just use it with the clips?
I saw other people just use the clips, but my glass seems to have a sticky back...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iq7WD.jpg) | [
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13,591 | I am new to 3D printing which we all are/were at some point. I have **no** clue how to address the issue which likely is reason why I haven't found the solution yet. So if you see that this question has been posted elsewhere, please link it! Thanks!
I have had this issue for a while, however right now, one minute ago, it worked kind of. The text below is a description of the problem that very often occurs!
So the issue is basically the extruder. I have a Flashforge Adventurer 3. In it's software you have a *"Load"* and *"Change"* option which you change and load filament with. When I load filament it goes through the tube but it never exits the extruder. The common answer is that the nozzle is clogged. I have honestly checked this, it isn't the problem. I have cleaned it as Flashforge says and I have also been using really small metallic pins to push out **all** the filament. So that isn't the issue.
Sometimes the filament also gets stuck inside the tube. Or the Bowden tube I think it is called.
I did a test 10 minutes ago, it went through the tube smoothly. No filament came out at the other end however. I then changed the filament, which means I pulled it back. I then saw that a part of the filament had gotten stuck at the end of the tube. It didn't pull all the filament back, a very small bit of the filament had somehow gotten stuck?
As it doesn't extrude filament when I load the filament it has nothing with the calibration to do what I know. So my own conclusion would be that something between the tube and extruder is going crazy. And I know, that isn't a good conclusion. However I don't know how to address it as I said before.
I know that it's hard to troubleshoot a text, so I will upload a video for you guys reading this. I really just want my 3D printer working again as the company said it probably isn't anything wrong with the machine..
When the machine starts working again it prints, but not good. Here is a video of how hit prints a big "F". [Link](https://youtu.be/kis_jNTRgI0). Sometimes it stops extruding filament for a while then it starts to extrude again..
There is also an image of the print below
The machine is printing at 195 °C! I appreciate all the help I can get, I just want my machine fully working again.
---
Here is a video of the Bowden tube: [Link](https://youtu.be/lFGUK6hUmkA)
Here is a video of the extruder issue: [Link](https://youtu.be/Y6u2Pi2xINk)
Here are two videos regarding the cold pull, I "try" to speak English so you get more information this time! [Link](https://youtu.be/ZfnNGwdTufI) [Link 2](https://youtu.be/IQmYHiYgoEo) | [
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13,593 | I've been looking at the Ender series and decided to take the plunge. But I'm unsure on electrical matters. The 110 or 220 volt switch, I assume goes to 220 V as I live in the UK but my main question is, from what I've read they come with an EU plug and a uk adapter, is it safer to switch to a 'kettle lead' for it to have it's own fuse and be grounded or is the adapter it comes with fine? *(I've never been a fan of adapter and I've read in different places that they're fine or that they are horrible.)*
Please help as if I need to buy a cable I'll do it the same time I buy the printer. Thank you all in advance for any help I get, hope to join this community properly as soon as the printers come back in stock anywhere. | [
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"text": "The fuse *may* be academic, because there might be an integrated fuseholder in the PSU itself. That said, adding an... | 2020/05/04 | [
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13,595 | It seems to me that the size of hole in the nozzle shouldn't matter in and of itself. If you program in the layer height and line width, then the same amount of plastic has to be extruded, no matter what size the hole is in the nozzle.
Of course I understand that, mechanically, the best results are got with the line width slightly larger than the nozzle size. We couldn't print a 0.3 mm line with a 0.6 mm nozzle, and trying to print a 1 mm line with a 0.4 mm nozzle probably wouldn't work well either. But in terms of what the actual G-code needs to do, the nozzle size doesn't seem to matter. After all, printers feed filament based on length/volume, so the size of the nozzle shouldn't impact the amount of plastic extruded.
What prompted this question: I want to switch from a 0.4 mm nozzle to a 0.8 mm nozzle, but I cannot find out how to change the nozzle size in Cura. There are many bug reports about the nozzle size setting disappearing or not displaying in Cura, and I think that's my problem. However, in the troubleshooting threads, many people claim that you can just change the line width and ignore the nozzle size completely and the result will be the same. In other words, if I want to switch from 0.4 nozzle and 0.48 line width, to 0.8 nozzle and 1 mm line width, I can just keep my slicer set to 0.4 nozzle size, but increase the line width to 1 mm, and if I physically install a 0.8 mm nozzle, it will do exactly the same thing. There are even Cura developers saying the nozzle size setting will be removed in a future version completely.
This may depend on the way individual slicers work. Has anyone tried switching between say 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle settings, while leaving the line width the same (say 0.8 mm line width for both), and see any differences in the G-code? I can't test this myself, because I can't change the nozzle size right now... | [
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13,612 | I have a Monoprice MP10 Muvi, a cut-down Creality CR-10 with lobotomized firmware. Heated bed.
I'm trying to do PLA prints, but have been unable to find a usable temperature.
If I set the temperatures (either nozzle or bed) too low, the initial raft layers don't stick, the print shrivels up, and the result is a tangle.
If I set the temperatures high enough to allow initial sticking, the raft prints okay, but after that the filament leaks out of the nozzle during long moves producing strings (only a little unsightly when outside the print area, but causing bumps when moves over the build and eventually the nozzle knocks into them) and all solid flat areas (ceilings/floors) warp.
If I start with a high temp but reduce it during the print, the layers stop sticking to each other, solid areas still warp, and the printer eventually fails to extrude anything (presumably the filament congeals inside the extruder or tube, that's very unpleasant to recover from, fortunately I have some cleaning filament).
Tried with multiple types of filament and multiple models (from thingiverse, converted into gcode using cura 3.6)
What should I be trying? | [
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"text": "Try bed at 50°C and hotend at 215°C, these are safe values.\n\nEnable retraction in the slicer, to avoid/reduce oozin... | 2020/05/06 | [
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13,614 | My printer is ignoring the "Z offset" setting in Cura and the "Bed Z" stored in the printer LCD settings? It has been working before but after a firmware update of my printer, it doesn't work. Even after flashing the previous firmware back "Bed Z" changes no longer affect anything. No matter if I change "Bed Z" during prints or if I use the "Z offset" option in Cura, the nozzle still prints at the same height. | [
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"text": "I have the same problem. You need to check your G-code to detect where's the problem.\n\nTry comparing ... | 2020/05/06 | [
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13,615 | I have a very frustrating problem, my extruder clogs up pretty much immediately after cleaning it from the previous clog and I cannot figure out what the hell is going wrong.
I use a genuine E3D V6 in direct drive configuration (dual drive) and I print only PLA.
I have tried many nozzle offsets from the bed but because I have to test so frequently I am just printing in the air for now.
This is what I tried:
* To print using the following temperatures: 200, 205, 210 and 220 °C
* Using different brands of PLA
* Lubricating filament
* Installing a filament dust cleaner
* Using both Bowden and direct configurations (my retraction setting for my direct drive setup is 0.8 mm, I am not sure what I used for the bowden but because the tube was fairly short it was probably around 3 mm. However I am not even printing I am simply running and stopping the extruder stepper, I am not using any retraction at all right now)
* Buying a brand new E3D V6
* Trying both 12 V and 24 V heat cartridges (with the respective power supplies of course)
* Checking the temperature with other sensors (yes the temperature is displayed correctly)
* Using acetone baths to clean all parts.
* Using stronger and weaker heat sink fans and fan options
* Push the filament manually
* Performing PID tunes
Even after all that the extruder clogs up usually mere seconds after it has been fully cleaned and inspected before being re-assembled. I make sure there is no bit of plastic or dust/dirt present before I re-assemble the extruder. I also hot tighten the nozzle but I also tried to run it without doing it but it made no difference.
I would love some help with this problem because I am pulling my hair out figuring out why this keeps happening. | [
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13,629 | I have an extrusion problem with my creality CR 10 3D printer while printing.
I am using a standard 0.4 mm nozzle with a 1.75 mm diameter PLA and I use Cura as my slicer.
This printer worked perfectly fine and I stopped using it a few months ago right after the problem started.
When I try printing a `.gcode` file, the first layer is very thin but visible (it seems like the glass bed is engraved). However, after the first layer is complete, the extruder stops working properly. It moves forward then jumps backwards so it looks like the filament isn’t moving (I can also see the extruder’s marks on the filament). Also, the axis seem to move fine in all directions as I’m able to see a clear first layer.
However, when I go into the “prepare” menu of my printer and move the extruder, it works great as the filament flow is very smooth.
Hence, the problem is only visible while printing. I don’t think there’s a problem with the `.gcode` files as I printed them perfectly fine beforehand. | [
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13,632 | I've had the Ender 5 Pro, as is, for 3 months.
After I tried a cheap PLA filament (maybe too cheap), it clogged the nozzle. I cleaned it, but any other filament I have would have similar problems from then on. After some days doing test prints, it clogged again. This time, I heated it up to 240 ºC, I unscrew the nozzle, cleaned it up, chopped the Capricorn tube (it had clear symptoms of a previous tube not reaching the bottom of the hotend and leaking material around it), perfectly aligned, cleaned the heating block with a brass brush, started screwing the nozzle… and it never reaches the end. It even jiggles a little bit (by "jiggles", I mean that when the hotend is hot, you can push the nozzle back and forth, and it does move... like it was a joint, and not a threaded bolt), like it was too small for the block. I try screwing a new nozzle. Same happens.
To me it looks like the heating block thread broke, but I can't be sure. I tried a thicker nozzle (0.8 mm, but same thread in the end) and it worked. I could feed filament and it wouldn't look like clogged (at least for 15 cm of feeding filament, when in previous cases it was almost instantaneous).
Time to get a new heating block? Any recommendation?
Would another kind of heating block be better?
Edit: Here's a picture of the bottom of the heating block. Now it's clear there's a metal chip glued with material, and almost (if any) no thread at all.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gt8Cb.jpg)
Another question. Could it have been that cheap material that caused the clogging, or was it just a lack of proper maintenance? | [
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13,634 | I have this CTC i3 printer; when I print square test prints, as it moves along the Y-axis back to zero (front). It extrudes lines but very thin or none at all.
But opposite direction along the Y axis is 100 %
 | [
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13,648 | I'm trying to compress different 3D files, but find it difficult to find the right software to compress the file.
What are the most suitable 3D file compressors to compress 3D files like STL, OBJ and STEP?
I have tried Draco, and mac zip compressor. | [
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13,653 | When I have overhangs in my model, Cura colors them red. However, I noticed if I make layer thickness thinner, the red area is reduced or disappears.
This could mean that thinner layer thickness is better for overhang, but it could also mean that a larger ratio of line width to layer thickness is better. It makes sense that if line width is 4X the layer thickness (such as 0.15 layers with 0.6 line width), overhang performance should be better than if line width is only 2X (such as 0.3 layers with the same 0.6 line width.
Is there a model that explains the optimum ratio of line thickness to layer height? Is only the ratio important, or is layer height also important by itself? | [
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13,656 | I've got an Anycubic Predator (aka Anycubic D). I followed the official instructions and leveled my printer.
The first annoying problem I ran into is that after the auto-leveling, the level test printing shows that the printer wasn't leveled at all. I tried about 4-5 times, and finally leveled the printer (I thought I just got lucky).
The second problem that isn't solved is that the prints I get are of poor quality. Shown in *figure 1* and *figure 2*. The cube should be 20x20x20 mm, but what I got here is 19.6(x) x 20.4(y) x 20.5(z) mm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xeclv.jpg)
*Figure 1 - X-Y (side) view of calibration square*
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4YkU0.jpg)
*Figure 2 - Z (top) view of calibration square*
Does anyone have any idea about how to improve the printer's printing quality? Thanks in advance. | [
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13,660 | From what I understand, UV curing of resin prints works by starting a chemical reaction that hardens the resin permanently.
Also, a curing step after print is needed to speed up the print and also to reduce the curing during print, which would cure resin beyond the current layer.
However, what is the transmissivity of UV light in partially cured prints? If I print a more massive object, or if I use an opaque resin, how deep will the object harden properly? Absorption is always exponential, meaning that it decreases quickly with depth.
Depending on the resin, how thick prints can be effectively cured? This information is not provided with the resin, which I actually would expect from reputable manufacturers. | [
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13,667 | Hoping to get some help with something I'm trying to accomplish. Unfortunately, due to my being a noob with 3D modeling in general, I'm coming here for hopefully more direct help.
```
Env. Details: OS: Windows 10
Word size of OS: 64-bit
Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit
Version: 0.17.13541 (Git)
Build type: Release
Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-17
Hash: 9948ee4f1570df9216862a79705afb367b2c6ffb
Python version: 2.7.14
Qt version: 4.8.7
Coin version: 4.0.0a
OCC version: 7.2.0
Locale: English/UnitedStates (en_US)
```
Essentially, I have a need to design some housing for a small electornics board. Due to the nature of 3D printing being less than ideal for bending/snapping locks, I've decided to use small screws to hold multiple layers of housing together.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CBSLA.png)
SketchUp Free proved to be a super intuitive, easy to understand 3D modeling software, tho is limited in functionality due to paid tiers.
Unfortunately, FreeCAD felt like a confusing cross between early 2000s Microsoft Paint and Eclipse (Java). However as the open source alternative, I understand it's incredibly powerful and can/should be able to do what most 3D modeling software is capable of, if you know how to use it properly - and that's where my lack of understanding shines through. Research into my use case revealed a plugin (Fasteners Workbench) which seemed purpose built for dealing with screws/threads, and I greatly prefer this approach due to being able to select standardized sizes.
On to the problem:
I decided to sketch out the main design for the housing in Sketchup, and am happy with it, though I am missing the holes in the four corners. To add this, I decided to export the file from Sketchup as STL and import it to FreeCAD. Once in FreeCAD, I switched to the fasteners workbench and created a screwtap of arbitrary length. Now, from most tutorials I've watched, removing one piece from another is a boolean operation, often a cut or an intersection. However, when I highlight both the part object and the screwtap and select the CUT boolean operation, what I expect to happen (the screwtap was "cut" or carved out of the part object) did not.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fWykE.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BqkC7.png)
I'm wondering if:
- My understanding of the boolean operation is wrong. There is a different function that is used for "boring" threaded holes?
- My process is wrong. Does exporting an STL from sketchup free not work for certain operations when importing to FreeCAD?
- My models are off. I have an understanding that "grouping" parts of models is big when putting a model together from parts, so as to simplify life. I'm wondering if it's also required in these cases? Attempting to do the boolean operation in sketchup failed but did require having grouped components. I'm not sure this is the case in FreeCAD, or if I'm already doing this?
Would appreciate any help with this. Attaching the FreeCAD file [here](https://drive.google.com/file/d/17_NEe8SXjl54cQzKhfzkMZsMBHSc9e5X/view?usp=sharing). | [
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13,676 | I'm new to 3D printing and I noticed some problems with my print.
I've printed it 3 times and releveled the bed. Now, I found that the right lower corner always has holes,
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZK0WA.jpg "Printed model on bed shows incomplete coverage during initial layers")
and some stringing problems
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FpjYF.jpg "Printed model on bed shows stringing")
Lastly, the place where there should be a full line suddenly becomes string-like, and it always happens at the same place.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Fr55.jpg "Printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HZz3J.jpg "Another printed model has individual lines are thin and string-like")
It's like my extruder pulls out the filament or fails to create filament in the area that should be filled with filament. Is it normal or did I set my printer wrong? I'm afraid it might cause holes in my new print.
There's also some stringing problem that causes the layer to be uneven.
Slicer: Cura 4.6
Settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jQYf9.png "Cura Speed settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/84ZNv.png "Cura Travel settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cbboi.png "Cura Material settings")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cdrDd.png "Cura Cooling settings")
My printer is Anycubic 4Max Pro | [
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"text": "From the wispy horizontal lines within the perimeters in your second image, it appears that the nozzle is ... | 2020/05/16 | [
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13,698 | Currently, I'm using a Creality printer to print PLA (that's what I have on hand) but I'm definitely interested in working with other materials that require higher temperatures (both much higher, and just enough higher that the stock hotend is very marginal) in the future.
I understand that all-metal hotends are less forgiving and that they particularly are not the best for printing PLA, and shouldn't be assumed to be an upgrade when only printing PLA.
What I don't understand is, *how bad are they?* Are they so bad that I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hotend whenever I print PLA or ABS? Or are they suitable for use on a printer that is sometimes used for printing PLA and ABS and sometimes printing high-temp filaments? | [
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"text": "> \n> Are they so bad I should plan on changing back to a PTFE hot end?\n> \n> \n> \n\nNo, all metal hot end... | 2020/05/19 | [
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13,705 | [Adding custom M Codes to Marlin](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/3586/adding-custom-m-codes-to-marlin) doesn't work for Marlin 2.0
How would one go about adding custom G codes or M Codes to Marlin 2.0? The Marlin\_main.cpp file does not exist.
In general for Marlin 2.0, things are organized better, but split into more files. | [
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"text": "The code in 2.0.x is similar to the old branch 1.1.x, G-code is parsed in [`gcode.cpp`](https://github.com/MarlinFir... | 2020/05/19 | [
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13,712 | Most people complain about the filament not sticking on build plate but mine is vice versa. At first it used to be very good. When I removed the magnetic bed the project would come off easily but for a few days it is like I glue it to the bed with epoxy. It is impossible to remove and when I remove the black projects from the bed I see white color at the bottom of the object printed. Maybe because of too much force but I don't know why this happens. | [
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"text": "This usually happens when your nozzle is too close to bed during the first layer. \n\n Quick fix is **re... | 2020/05/20 | [
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13,723 | Typically in Arduinos, most of the 5 V outputs that have a limited amount of current (40 mA).
Are there any 3D printer boards, or is there even a more usual spot, where you can get a 5 V output that isn't capped by the microcontroller?
I know that USB 2.0 is (typically) limited to 500 mA especally when connected to a laptop. Just wondering if there was a way to for e.g. get a 200 mA output from one of the 5 V pins, or more if there is a stronger power supply connected to the USB port. | [
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"text": "Any pin that is labeled as \"5 V\" can supply the full amount of current. Looking at, for example, the [Ardu... | 2020/05/21 | [
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13,731 | About two months ago, I added a heated bed to my custom 3D printer in order to print larger ABS parts for my research project. The heated bed (the PCB kind) was not new, but taken from an old printer I had built, but took apart. The bed worked well for a few weeks, but after one print finished, the glass bed above the heater PCB had shattered into several pieces (represented by bed 1 in the image below) and the nozzle was below the level of the bed (I believed it had lowered into the glass causing the breakage. I haven't determined what caused this motion, but it hasn't happened since). Notably, this print was using the heated bed at 90 °C. I chalked this up to a freak accident, and since it did not happen again, just replaced the glass and kept printing.
However, as soon as the heated bed was activated after the replacement, a small crack appeared on the glass and continued to lengthen as time progressed. I took off the glass as soon as possible and prevented it from fully breaking (see bed 2 in the image below. This bed was smaller as I didn't have access to a large enough piece of glass at the time).
At this point, I figured something more than an impact caused the glass to shatter. Since both cracks occurred when the bed was heating or cooling, I figured that thermal shock could potentially be the source of the cracking, and a quick google reinforced this idea. Due to the nature of both cracks (not being straight shards but meandering around the build plate and propagating slowly), they both appeared to have been caused, or at least propagated, by thermal effects.
To try to avoid future cracking, I took care in assembling the third bed. The heater PCB was attached tightly to the glass with Kapton tape and a thin layer of thermal paste was added as an interface layer to try to get an even contact and heat distribution throughout the glass plate. I made sure that the cardboard shims (which press the glass into the clips) were not too compressed, thinking that pressure in the middle of the glass plate from the shims may have accentuated the cracking by putting the top of the glass under tension.
But after a few cycles with this new bed, the same problem appeared (bed 3 below). This time, the cracking was as severe as the first case, but no impact occurred and I was not touching the bed. The bed was heating up to temperature (90 °C) when the cracking occurred. The strangest part is, the file set to print was one I had already printed successfully on the newest bed.
At this point I am at a loss and don't know what to do next. I don't want to make another bed just to have it crack in a few prints, but I need the bed in the near future. Any suggestions to mitigate this problem would be greatly appreciated.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QRWws.jpg)
**Update (currently fixed)**
I have replaced the bed with a borosilicate glass sheet, switched the heater to a stick-on 120V silicone heater (the same size as the bed), and added a PEI sheet on top. After about 2 months, it is working great and no cracks have formed. My best guess is that it was a combination of poor glass, possibly with small fractures on the edges already since I cut it myself, and the heater which was too small for the bed. Thanks for the suggestions! | [
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13,736 | As stated above, I am trying to solve a problem I've had for a long time. Unfortunately, this has recently intensified to the point where it causes layer splitting/detaching from each other. I have tried various ways to fix this and, while decreasing the temperature and extrusion multiplier improved the situation, the problem is still present.
My settings:
- Nozzle 235 °C Bed 100 °C
- Cooling 25 %
- Extrusion multiplier 0.89
- Speed 150 mm/s for everything, 50 mm/s for small perimiters
- Acceleration 1000 mm/s2, (default)
- Layer height 0.15-0.3mm
- Line width - 0.6mm for everything, but 0.45 for first layer and 0.42 for top solid infill
Is there a different solution than lowering print speed or buying an E3D silicon sock? I have lost my spare ones and the current one wore down. Obviously, I can simply pause the print when I see plastic bulding up on the nozzle, but I am sure that there is a more efficient solution.
UPDATE: I found that the hotend was very dirty and full of burnt/molten plastic. I am almost sure that the hotend is leaking somewhere between the heat block and the heat break. This didn't happen before I replaced the nozzle. How can I fix this? Do I have to replace the heat break or some other part? | [
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"text": "I saw PETG printed at 100 mm/s, but 150! That's a lot.\n\nOne solution to avoid blobs may be to limit the maximum spe... | 2020/05/23 | [
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13,737 | First of all, I'm still new to this 3D printing and I've bought myself a second hand Ender 3 with some mods done to it.
I've successfully printed with PLA in different colors but after a good first layer the print seems like it is skipping lines.
I've already tried to:
* Change the nozzle
* Set the bed level (like a million times)
* Download calibration files (e.g calibration squares)
I have used Cura with the Ender 3 Pro profile:
* I print in PLA at 200 °C
* A print bed temperature of 60°C
* Cooling fan at 100%
* Layer height of 0.2 mm
* Line width is 0.4 mm from a 0.4 mm nozzle
* Printing Speed is set to 50 mm/s for walls and 25mm/s for infill
* Retraction is 6.5 mm/off at 25mm/s
I really don't know how to fix it the bad quality.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SJMBw.jpg) | [
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13,752 | I want to be able to control my FLSUN QQ over Wi-Fi and don't have OctoPrint or a Raspberry Pi to run it on. | [
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"text": "Assuming you use Ultimaker Cura to slice, there is a MKS plugin that allows connecting to the MKS WiFi module th... | 2020/05/26 | [
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13,767 | Is there any DRM or license management solution for 3D printing? I'm looking for something, that would help me limit the number of prints someone can make from my projects. Basically, I would like to sell the "right to make no more than X copies" of my design. I don't expect it to be bullet-proof (like Widevine L1 for video), but it should at least help me with license management. | [
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"text": "Good luck with that.\n\nIssues you will face:\n\n* using a G-code editor (or built-in printer software) to create m... | 2020/05/28 | [
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13,776 | Recently I have started using a fairly large LCD resin printer. (Yidimu Falcon Pro)
It has a fairly large 260x160mm perforated and coated steel build plate and a decent dual rail Z axis with a ballscrew. It has a 10" LCD. It prints ChiTuBox files from a USB stick.
I have been having a mostly successful print, at good quality, but the bed adhesion keeps haunting me. The best print on this machine had parts curling up from the build plate, however most of the print succeeded.
* Two times I have had a very well adhering raft, however delamination occured directly after the raft.
* Usually the left side lifts from the bed while the model stays on the build plate.
I have tried:
Changing resin (tried Druckwerk Pro D Black and Anycubic Black)
* Decreasing lift speed
* Increasing lift distance
* Increasing bottom layer exposure time (from 60 to 180, as suggested by Druckwerck supplier)
* Increasing bottom layer count to 9
* Using a large raft
* Using a very large raft
* Using a very small raft
* Leveling build plate without vat in place, using paper
* Leveling build plate while keeping vat in place
What would be a good next troubleshooting step?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VpZWt.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/rRWtS.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CtYl8.jpg) | [
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"text": "looks like you have done a lot of work to try to get it working.\n\nconsidering you are having issues on one side of... | 2020/05/29 | [
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13,795 | I'm printing a object with a pretty sizable overhang. And the results, after support removal, are pretty ugly.
Here is the print before support removal.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VOWiG.jpg)
And here is the final product, sigh.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/z19Oe.jpg)
Finally here are my slic3r settings:
* Generate Support Material: [✔]
* Overhang threshold: 60°
* Max Layer Count for Supports: 0 layers
* Enforce Support for the First: 0 layers
* Raft layers: 0 layers
Options for support material and raft
* Contact Z distance: 0.2 mm (detachable)
* Pattern: pillars
* Pattern spacing: 2.5 mm
* Pattern angle: 0°
* Interface Layers: 3 layers
* Interface pattern spacing: 2 mm
* Support on Build Plate Only: [✔]
* Don't support bridges: [ ]
The material I'm using is ABS, 230 °C temperature setting. Layers, Adaptive Slicing, Adaptive quality: 75 %, Match horizontal surfaces. Vertical shells, 3 perimeters minimum. Horizontal shells, solid layers: top: 3, bottom 3.
Is there a way to improve this?
Note: for anybody interested... these are small disposable spatulas used to place bondo mix onto a flat surface at the bottom of a restricted space, to fill small holes in wood. Its too tight in there to use a normal putty knife.
---
**Some more print settings**
Included here are the speed settings from Slic3r:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5NXO1.png)
---
**G-code analysis**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pDYAz.png)
I'm wondering why there is such a large gap between the gold colored E shaped interface to the blue spatula handle? And that makes me wonder, what support material and raft settings should I be using? Why is that gap so big? (And I have to go back into SolidWorks and check, but I'm nearly certain that handle is 2 mm wide. That gap to the support is really big.) | [
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13,821 | I have had issues with printing on my i3 MK3, especially when it came to the first layer. In March 2020, I have installed the Prusa Mesh Leveling plugin for Octoprint. With that plugin and a Nylock nut modification, I was able to reduce the bed variance from 0.6 mm down to 0.014 mm and prints were great. That took about 25 rounds of calibration and I didn't have any issues with the graphics not updating.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fo7Ag.png)
Shortly after that, my filament sensor stopped working and I ordered a replacement, which I installed yesterday. But today, my prints are bad again, especially the first layer. So I thought I would simply run through the calibration and mesh bed leveling again.
First, I turned the screws in the wrong direction, so the result became worse and I needed several attempts until the results went into the correct direction. I'm currently at ~1.0 mm bed variance, which is very bad and I need to continue leveling the bed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lR588.png)
Now, the graphics does not update any longer. It always shows the same picture.
I also noticed some different behavior of the mesh bed levelling procedure. Usually, after running the mesh bed levelling, the printer needs some time (~5 secs) before it will react to other commands like a move on the Z axis. I used the following technique to find out when to reload the graphics:
* run mesh bed levelling
* tell the printer to move up 10 mm on the Z axis
* as soon as the print head moves up, it was possible to reload the graphics
Now, the print head moves up immediately after the mesh bed levelling, without the ~5 secs delay and the graphics does not update.
I have already tried:
* click the "reload heat map" button
* run mesh bed leveling again
* restarting Octoprint
* resetting the printer using the X button
* looking for disk space via SSH
.
```
pi@octopi:~ $ df -h
Filesystem Size Used Avail Use% Mounted on
/dev/root 7.3G 1.9G 5.1G 27% /
devtmpfs 182M 0 182M 0% /dev
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /dev/shm
tmpfs 186M 2.7M 183M 2% /run
tmpfs 5.0M 4.0K 5.0M 1% /run/lock
tmpfs 186M 0 186M 0% /sys/fs/cgroup
/dev/mmcblk0p1 42M 21M 21M 51% /boot
tmpfs 38M 0 38M 0% /run/user/1000
```
In the log file (`octoprint.log`) with output level set to `DEBUG`, I could see an entry:
```
2020-06-06 12:19:52,261 - octoprint.plugins.PrusaMeshMap - INFO - Generating heatmap
2020-06-06 12:19:52,288 - py.warnings - WARNING -
/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/pyplot.py:522:
RuntimeWarning: More than 20 figures have been opened.
Figures created through the pyplot interface (`matplotlib.pyplot.figure`) are
retained until explicitly closed and may consume too much memory.
(To control this warning, see the rcParam `figure.max_open_warning`).
max_open_warning, RuntimeWarning)
```
As you can see, this was at 12:19. The last graphics I saw is from 12:37.
The logs also contain a message on 12:40:
```
2020-06-06 12:40:39,262 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Error while processing hook PrusaMeshMap:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2849, in _readline
ret = hook(self, ret)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 90, in mesh_level_check
self.mesh_level_generate()
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint_PrusaMeshMap/__init__.py", line 236, in mesh_level_generate
fig.savefig(self.get_asset_folder() + '/img/heatmap.png', bbox_inches="tight")
[...]
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/image.py", line 512, in _make_image
output = self.to_rgba(output, bytes=True, norm=False)
File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/matplotlib/cm.py", line 259, in to_rgba
xx = (xx * 255).astype(np.uint8)
MemoryError
```
On 12:46 I rebooted the system
```
2020-06-06 12:46:08,761 - octoprint.server.api.system - INFO - Performing command for core:reboot: sudo shutdown -r now
```
but of course that graphics is still missing and the last available graphics is the one from 12:37. So, after the reboot one needs to run the mesh bed leveling again.
Still, no luck...
OctoPrint version is 1.4.0, OctoPi version 0.15.0PE, Prusameshmap Plugin: 0.3.0. As far as I can tell, that's the latest version available.
What can I do to make mesh bed leveling work again? | [
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"text": "You have found a bug in the OctoPrint plugin. As you noticed, not more than 20 graphs can be created/open at a time.... | 2020/06/06 | [
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13,825 | I recently heard that the 3D printing lab at my college can do fused-deposition with ABS and PLA, but I would like to use TPU, for greater flexibility.
Is it possible to feed a TPU filament into the same machine built for ABS/PLA? Or is there no difference? Assume the diameters of the filaments are the same. | [
{
"answer_id": 13826,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
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"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "Most printers can print most filaments. However, some more exotic filaments are not suitable for all printe... | 2020/06/07 | [
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13,849 | If I have an issue with my FLSUN printer how can I contact customer support? | [
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"answer_id": 13850,
"author": "linuxdan",
"author_id": 10422,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/10422",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "I have had good luck contacting them via AliExpress <https://flsun.aliexpress.com/store/2383013> even though I ... | 2020/06/11 | [
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13,852 | I broke one of the blades of the fan and that's making the x-box vibrate. Other than that it works fine and I can still print at a very low flow rate and a lot of noise. Will replacing the blades, not the whole fan work?
Found this and how to replace on thingyverse:
<https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:186979> | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "It will work, but likely with reduced performances: designing blades is not an easy task and the ones you can print w... | 2020/06/11 | [
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13,856 | I'm newbie at this stackexchange and I have a "FlashForge Finder"; lately there are many problems with the horizontal surfaces quality (Bottom and Top at the same time).
As some issue guides suggests, I changed: number of solid layers, % of filling and extrusion multiplier; I use "Flashprint", so some concepts must be translated from Cura in the options menu.
P.S: All filaments are PLA.
Without any change:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/kN9K4.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XWw31.jpg)
After all changes (the "best")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nbE13.jpg)
My settings for last black disk:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/G2nkp.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2GzNN.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qw0yc.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/psACU.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/F7UOy.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PcdnR.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbN1e.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9pSYX.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/EyYqp.png) | [
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"text": "This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder n... | 2020/06/11 | [
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13,865 | I find that white filaments are quite translucent and printing 5 layers of white filament onto 2 layers of black filament (at 0.2 mm layers, the white layers being 100% infilled and the underlying black layer covering about 85% of the whole area) produces a slightly grey color on the top.
Is that a limitation of the white colour (or the actual material used)?
Are there materials, that address this issue to some extent?
Adjusting layer thickness while keeping the overall height won't change things, right? | [
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"text": "This could be caused by under extrusion, often caused by the bed being too close to the hot end / extruder n... | 2020/06/12 | [
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13,876 | I'm in the middle of building a D-Bot printer, and have run into a bit of an issue when it comes to the heat bed wires. The heated bed is an aluminum plate with a silicon heater attached to it, and the heater wires are not long enough to make it through the drag chain when the Z-axis is fully extended.
The silicon pad is 120 V AC / 750 W and will be turned on/off by a Fotek SSR. The heater wires are cloth-covered and are probably 22-24 AWG. (Gauge is not labelled)
I suspect I'll need to extend the wires by putting in some sort of coupler at the top of the drag chain, but I'm not certain if there are specific requirements for the wires for an AC powered heat bed.
To this end, I was wondering:
* Is there a specific wire gauge that I should use for the heater wires, and should it have a specific cladding?
* What type of connector would be best for connecting the wires together securely in this case?
Thanks in advance! | [
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"text": "750 W at 120 V is 6.3 A. 22-24 AWG is on the thin side for this. I would recommend 18 AWG or thicker. You d... | 2020/06/14 | [
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13,880 | I installed a BLTouch bed leveling probe on my printer which uses Marlin 2.0.5.3.
Now the printer seems to be of two minds when it comes to finding the origin. Homing XY moves to the lower left as it always has, but homing Z moves not only to Z=0, but also to the center of the build plate. The printer knows this is (100,100,0) and is not mistakenly thinking it is (0,0,0).
This causes some issues such as now the nozzle wipe at the beginning of a print happens right in the center of where the print is supposed to be.
Is this expected behavior? | [
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"text": "This is a consequence of enabling `Z_SAFE_HOMING`:\n\n> \n> Z Safe Homing prevents Z from homing when the probe (or... | 2020/06/14 | [
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13,897 | I would like to 3D print a small thin tub/mold for an epoxy resin. I have tubings inserted into holes, and I need to fix these tubings securely with epoxy (see picture below). The space is very limited, and the whole assembly must have a smallest possible footprint, so I have to confine the epoxy from spreading to the sides - that's why I need a tub. The tub itself must have as thin walls as possibly for the same reason.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2M2OH.png)
**The wall thickness is constant, so theoretically the nozzle could just make one single loop to print a layer, and then move to the next one. Kinda a spiral motion**. It seems to be so simple! How do I get the slicer (I use Ultimaker 2 with 0.4 mm nozzle, CoPA material, and slice in Cura 4.6.1) to produce single outline walls?
I tried so many things, but I couldn't get this.
With the default settings for 0.2 mm layer a 0.4 mm wall (or thinner) will not be printed at all (left - 0.35 mm wall, middle - 0.4 mm, right - 0.45 mm):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/accPb.png)
Occasionally even the 0.45 mm-thick wall gets excluded from the print, which is really bizarre:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/adSYJ.png)
If I make the wall thicker, then the slicer tries to pack two discontinued lines next to each other, which is even worse. Cura has an option 'print thin walls', but this results in jerky, discontinued tracks.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DbDBJ.png)
At the moment I print 0.45 mm walls with the 'print thin walls' option turned on, this is the closest to what I need that I could find so far.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hodsm.png)
This may look fine in Cura, but the result is pretty ugly due to the additional nozzle movements... I really don't understand why the printer has to do them. It prints the outline, then jumps to the 'corner' and deposits a blob there. I can carefully remove these blobs with a scalpel, but come on, this is a disposable part and I need a ton of these!!!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hSbBG.png)
If that helps, here is a [link to a sample STL file with 450 μm walls](https://trello-attachments.s3.amazonaws.com/5b6b2534b398ed67842b5cf7/5edeb664103bb57c7dd030fc/b6a7558c09ae986bb5e5e4842f01ab07/short_450um.stl). | [
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"answer_id": 13898,
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"text": "Cura is exceptionally bad at printing details comparable in size to the configured line widt... | 2020/06/17 | [
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13,905 | First of all, I'm quite new to 3D printing. After printing some temperature towers, stringing and bridging tests, I wanted to print the Bechys to see everything working together. I'm getting some strange "bumps" in the outer walls. It looks like for 2-3 layers, the filament gets lifted up.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l0w83.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VNmNB.jpg)
I first thought, the infill is printed too far in the outer shell, so I unchecked "Infill Before Walls" in Cura. Surprisingly the outcome did not change and the "bumps" where in the exact same spots as before.
I am aware of a part cooling problem, but my stock cooler already sits at 100 %. I don't think, the extruder temperature is too hot, with it being only 200 °C. As you can see, the printer only has a one sided cooling solution with a very small fan conduct.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bOANt.jpg)
Print settings:
* Printer: Anycubic I3 Mega S
* Slicer: Cura
* Material: PLA
* Extruder Temp: 200 °C
* Bed Temp: 60 °C
* Print speed: 45 mm/s
* Travel speed: 100mm/s
* Layer height: 0.2 mm
* Layer width: 0.4 mm
* Nozzle: 0.4 mm
* Infill: 10 %
* Retraction distance: 4.5 mm
Retraction speed: 40 mm/s
So I am suspecting it must have something to do with the way, it is sliced. Does anyone have an idea?
Update:
I started the print again with aligned seams. Now you can clearly see the artifact. At the point of the seam the print is warped inwards and upwards.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TK9IT.jpg)
I did some more prints and tried to increase retraction distance up to 10 mm and retraction speed up to 60 mm/s, but I also did not manage to improve the print. I also tried to enable the "retract at layer change" option and to disable "Z Hop When Retracted" but without success.
I set the travel speed down to 45 mm/s with no change in print quality. | [
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"text": "The fact that the bumps were in the same spots on multiple occasions points to z-axis problems. Turn y... | 2020/06/18 | [
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13,906 | My Ender 3 LCD display was working ok, I went to turn it on recently but is not showing any signal of life anymore...
I have tried unplugging and plugging again, is there a way to test if the screen still works?
What is the issue? Or should I just buy and install a new LCD? | [
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13,913 | Prompted by discussion in comments of a recent question whether PLA is suitable for parts that need to be in contact with acetone, I did some casual experiments and found that my clear/"natural" 3D Solutech PLA is mostly but not entirely resistant to acetone, while my blue Hatchbox PLA is quickly softened and deformed by it. This got me wondering: how do you go about finding PLA that's **actually PLA** (and nothing else)? Just "clear/natural" in product description does not seem to suffice.
I know this is close to a shopping question, so please make suggestions on how it could be improved if it's too close. It'd be great if there were keywords that worked, but an answer is probably going to be more along the lines of how to go about inquiring with manufacturers or where to find places where manufacturers might advertise that their products as pure. | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "There's only two ways to make sure it is pure PLA without color and additives:\n\n* Make it yourself. Order PLA-pell... | 2020/06/20 | [
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"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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