qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
13,915 | I have a model of an eye that I custom made in **Blender 2.83** that when printed only creates **roughness** on the printed object near where I had the supports. **The supports are not the cause of the roughness** (at least not completely) since the supports don't even touch the parts of the print where the majority of the roughness and bumps are (**refer to my photos** of the print)
**The roughness is only near the bottom part of the sphere as it prints upwards (refer to photos)**
What I'm looking for is a technique or any suggestions for printing this without the roughness so it's smooth like in the rest of the print. I'm also curious *what* is causing the roughness.
---
**Eye Model in Blender**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/FNlOr.gif)
**Blender Scale Ratio:** 0.001
**Blender Units:** mm
---
**Eye Model in Prusa Slicer**
Layer Gif
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4pluI.gif)
Prusa Slicer Main Settings (Higher Res)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0gEV0.jpg)
Variable Layer Heights For Smoothness
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ggRpk.png)
---
**Eye Model Prints Photos**
Eye Model Small Version 3D Print (Notice it's **smooth** on top of print)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BA6tY.jpg)
Eye Model Small Version 3D Print **Trouble Area**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e8pa6.jpg)
Eye Model Small & Large Version With Support (Notice **roughness** on the sphere)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4lXuB.jpg)
Example of Support Used On Small Print
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OHuyp.jpg)
Smooth on inside of print
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/fKor2.jpg)
---
**--------- Print Details ---------**
**Printer:** Prusa i3 MK3s
**Filament:** PLA Galaxy Silver (Prusa Reserach)
**Slicer Software:** Prusa Slicer
**Print Temperature First Layer**: 205 degrees
**Print Temperature Other Layers**: 190 degrees
**Notes:** The suggested temperature for the filament is 205-215, I've adjusted after careful calibration given my environment to a lower temperature to reduce stringing. I created a tower at different temperatures and discovered 190 was the perfect setting to reduce stringing in my case with this material. Refer to my screenshot below. **I do not think temperature has anything to do with this since the print is smooth inside and near the top without any issues**.
**Temperature Tower Test For Filament Photo**:
(Note stringing in the cone test areas at 225 to 205)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4i87u.jpg)
---
--------- **Prusa Slicer Settings Photos** ---------
Filament settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QH8q3.png)
Extruder Settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/90NXg.png)
Support Settings
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UaBv4.png) | [
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"answer_id": 13918,
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"text": "You can't print them smooth\n---------------------------\n\nThe short answer is: with FDM you can't make curves that... | 2020/06/21 | [
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13,921 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tcLgq.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hyr7P.jpg)
Just got an Ender 3 a week ago. This is my first 3D printer. On the 5th print the object ended up tearing away the surface of the print bed such that it's no longer usable. Trying to work out if this is something that I did wrong or if this is faulty material or a combination of the two?
To set the print head I watched a few tutorials and carefully followed the instructions checking the height with a piece of paper at each corner and in the center and repeated this until it was set.
I watched a couple more tutorials on how to remove the pieces from the bed. I have been removing the top sheet from the print bed by detaching the paper clips. Using the supplied putty knife I've worked around the edges tapping gently with a rubber mallet to get the putty knife under the piece and loosen it before it pops off.
Afterwards I've used the putty knife to scrape off any other residue to make sure that the surface is smooth.
The first 2 prints were with PLA and then the next 3 with PETG. The damage happened when removing a piece printed with PETG.
My specific questions: Is my approach to removing a print incorrect? If so, what would the correct approach be? Did this cause the damage? | [
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"text": "Your print surface is destroyed\n===============================\n\nSo, you managed to rip off your print surface in... | 2020/06/21 | [
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13,931 | Printing supports, either complete, or partially from PVA have not always resulted in successful prints according to my experience with the filament (used in a dual extruder Ultimaker 3 extended). But, when it works well, the surface finish is perfect as there is no gap between the PVA and PLA.
From my experience with PVA, I conclude it is prone to clog, the filament is very hygroscopic, resulting in popping sounds when printing if too moist which most probably also impacts on clogging. The clogs lead to failed support structures as the extruder grinds through the filament and as such failed prints.
I was wondering if PETG can be used for supports or for the interface layer of supports for printing supports for PLA prints? For example:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1ysAhm.png "Non scaffolding support structure") [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk35Cm.png "Non scaffolding support structure in material color")
This is a sliced view of a print in line color (left or top on small screens) and material color (right or bottom on small screens); black PLA and cream colored PETG. This print contains a larger gap that needs support. Can you make the support from PETG, either the support as a whole or just the top interface.
* How does PLA-PETG or PETG-PLA bond or stick considering the 2 different print temperatures?
* What are the concerns using a single nozzle? | [
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"answer_id": 14034,
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"text": "While it is most certainly possible to use PETG as a support material, you might run into some trouble wh... | 2020/06/23 | [
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13,940 | I'm having an issue where prints with narrow tolerance come out fused. This makes it pretty much impossible to print anything with narrow parts. It seems to be mostly (maybe only) an issue in the bottom skin layers. Once it gets through those, the rest of the print goes smoothly and tight tolerances are not a problem.
Here's an example where I've tried to print some hinges:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NrtaB.jpg)
It's a test print where each hinge has a different tolerance, so the left and right are expected to look different. Below each real image is a preview layer from Cura showing how it's supposed to look.
The first layer appears OK. The second layer looks a little messy, and the gap between inner and outer circles has shrunk. By the third layer the hinge on the right is completely fused.
The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed (flat glass, no special surface), BLTouch, and Marlin 1.1.9. The slicer is Cura 4.6.1, and for this test print I used the default for "Super Quality - 0.12 mm" at 200 °C and 60 °C bed with no changes. The filament is Mika3D PLA.
Some things I've tried to fix this:
* Calibrated e-steps (currently set at 95.88) - no noticeable difference
* Calibrated flow rate (got 97.859 % but returned to 100 % for this test) - no noticeable difference
* Varying temperatures from 190 to 230 °C by 5 °C increments - no improvement from 200 °C
* Set "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" to -0.1 mm, -0.4 mm, and -1.0 mm in Cura. - no improvement.
* Set "Initial Layer Flow" to 90 %. - no improvement.
* Obsessively leveled and re-leveled the bed. - no improvement.
* Moved the Z-offset up and down to get more or less squish on the first layer - no improvement.
* Tried various brands and colors of PLA - problem is consistent.
* Reduced build plate temperature to 45 °C after initial layer - no improvement.
What else is there to check?
**Edit 2020-06-26:**
At `R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE`'s suggestion I returned the e-steps to default (93), re-leveled the bed, and adjusted the z-offset tighter. I made 10 attempts with varying z-offsets, and here's the best one:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bRrSW.jpg)
The first layer looks better! But the second and third layers are just as bad as before, in fact maybe worse. The circle on the right completely fused on only the second layer. And the top surface is just as ripple-ey and messed up as before.
Here's a closeup of the fourth layer to show how bad it is:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z7MvW.jpg)
So although the re-calibrated e-steps may have been *a* problem, that clearly wasn't the only problem. What else should I be looking at here?
**Edit 2020-06-27:**
At `Davo`'s suggestion I double-checked all my slicer settings. Flow is set to 100% everywhere, wall thickness is 0.8 mm for two walls (so 0.4 mm each), and nozzle diameter is correct at 0.4 mm.
At `R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE`s suggestion I double-checked my filament diameter. It is set to 1.75 mm. On the actual filament, my digital caliper measures 1.74 to 1.76, within the expected tolerance. So that doesn't appear to be the issue.
At `0scar♦`s suggestion I tried a print with 0.2 mm layer height. Here's the first layer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sFOUo.jpg)
Looks like the same over-extrusion.
Then I tried reducing the flow multiplier to 90% (for both "flow" and "initial layer flow") and printing at 0.2 mm layer height:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8oloh.jpg)
Better, but it *still* looks over-extruded!
I don't know what else to try. | [
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"text": "OK, let's start with your pictures. Putting aside the expansion in the XY plane, layer 1 loo... | 2020/06/24 | [
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13,945 | I have a model that's placed on the bed exactly like on this picture:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hDTcF.png)
I have constant quality degradation as the bed moves down to print in the upper left corner **(1)**.
Everything is fine on the X **(2)-(3)** side. It does not have any visible artifacts. All hell goes along the **(1)-(3)** curve:
[](https://i.imgur.com/EvgyKFi.png)
Top left corner **(1)**:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oPGTi.jpg)
On the way from **(1)** to **(2)** lines seem to disappear almost completely.
I used Cura slicer and these printing settings:
* stock ender firmware
* 0.2 mm layer height
* supports
* 2 bottom & top layers
* PETG 235 °C nozzle
* 80 °C bed
* walls x2
* 10 % infill gyroid
* ironing
* seam smart hiding
* 50 mm/s print speed
* 500 / 50 mm/s^2 acceleration / jerks
It looks like a mechanical issue, so I tried tightening/untightening bed bolts. It didn't help. They are a little bit tight, but not too much. The bed does not seem to be wobbling. Also, I tried the bed for wobbling in its top/bottom position. It looks fine along all the way.
What should I try next?
Extruder steps/mm are tweaked for this filament. Extruder produces exactly 97 mm of 100 mm of filament.
### UPD
I decided to change my software/hardware settings step by step. This time I changed only my software settings to these:
* Speed: 30 mm/s
* Acceleration: 3000 mm/s^2
* Retract: 4 mm
* Combing: Not in Skin (previous print had the same value)
* Overhanging wall speed 100% (same as the previous print)
Corners have become much sharper and there is a lot less of bulging on the arc.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cpPQU.jpg)
However, by X-axis **(2) - (3)** I see more artifacts:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zh7MP.jpg)
Y-axis has become better:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vMuZ5.jpg)
Currently, I don't have any visible or sensible bed / X play. I tuned rollers to have enough tension not to slip if rotate them separately. So, if I rotate the roller, it moves the whole bed or X carriage. I'll try increasing the tension a little bit and then I'll share the result.
### UPD2
I've made belts a little bit tighter and decided to print a new model. The layer height is 0.3 mm. Also, I tried increasing temperature up to **240 °C** and changed the stock vent with a circular vent. The wall count is 50 to make the model solid. Coasting is off.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3UgZQ.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OZnsB.jpg)
Now all artifacts are along the X-axis. There are many fewer of them at (1) than at (2). The model is a doorstep. On the build plate it's placed like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lYrF9.jpg)
Now I think the problem has nothing to do with X/Y play and these two factors can be eliminated. I'll revert belt tensions back to their previous values and decrease the printing temperature down to 225-230 °C.
PS. USBASP is still in customs, so I'm doing all this on the stock firmware.
### UPD3
I have finally figured out what was wrong. It was insufficient Z-belt tension on both sides. A close look at a DSLR camera shot gave me a clue: there was almost always a straight segment followed by a visible additional step down between layers.
There are still some artifacts but everything looks relatively tolerable now.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ynYBN.jpg)
Thanks to all of you guys! | [
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13,961 | This is regarding the circuit of my 3D printer Tronxy X5SA's stepper motor for X axis.
**I had an observation:** It has a cooling fan (40X10 24V) which is having issues lately - it stops working sometimes, and when pushed to rotate, spins back.
**Problem:** Now one of the stepper motors (NEMA 17 ~3.5kgfcm) in my core XY has been malfunctioning, where it misses rotation sometimes out of the blue, which shifts the whole print. I thought this is due to the driver limiting the current to the motor, so I rotated the screw terminal clockwise a bit more to allow more current for the motor. This works fine for a while, but the problem comes back.
Now, I also noticed a few times that this issue occurred when the cooling fan for the drivers stopped working.
Can the stopping of the cooling fan cause the stepper motor to falter?
Another observation is that the stepper motor which is faltering is placed close to another stepper motor. Although I know stepper motors can work in extreme conditions, can this cause the issue?
If you require any more info to investigate the issue, please do let me know | [
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13,968 | I have a repair part that I need to print with ABS and I know that I have warping problems with ABS.
I'm now trying to mitigate this by printing a circle around my object and use more brim. You can consider this as a manually designed skirt, but I want the brim to be on both sides of the skirt.
However, when slicing the repair part with the ring, I get brim only outside the "skirt", not inside of it.
How would I get brim also in the area marked here?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TQiOx.png) | [
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"answer_id": 13969,
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"text": "When there's a cut in the outer ring (the manual skirt), Slic3r will fill the area as expected:\n\n[![Brim i... | 2020/06/28 | [
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13,975 | I'm printing with anycubic i3 mega on an ultrabase bed. When I first got the printer the prints were easy to remove from the bed after it cools down, I didn't need to put any extra effort. However after I used 70% isopropyl to clean it it seems I removed some kind of extra coating as all next prints were sticking to the bed firmly even after the bed cools down. So I tried to heat the bed up to 100 degrees and then cool it down and wait until it gets to something like 35, at that point print comes off quite easily (really helped me with some big parts with huge initial layer) so I wonder if I should just add that extra heating cycle to the end of each print job.
Is there any possible problems with that?
PS my understanding is that PLA should be okay with short temperature spike since it is being melted with twice as high heat. However long exposure to that temperature might cause some deformation (eg if I throw the printed part into dishwasher).
Another possible concern is that extra heating cycle could potentially shorten life of the ultrabase, but not sure if it is the case.
UPDATE
so after some experiments I printed at least a dozen calibration cubes adjusting several parameters along the way as it seems each of them contributed to the issue
* I decided to reset initial layer thickness which I noticed was set to `0.25` when normal layer was `0.2`. Since it was thicker for better adhesion I thought I don't need it since I don't have problem with sticking to the bed :)
* second thing was the flow adjustment and enabling some layer filling settings in cura (filtering small holes etc). Ended up at `91%` flow rate which gave me much cleaner top layers as well as the bottom ones.
* and finally I played with `Z offset`, I did bed leveling recently so it was flat (did single layer tests to check that) but it might have been a little bit too high, so adding an offset seems like a good way to compensate for it. The thing I was looking after as a feedback here is the squeezing bottom layers issue, so I stopped once I got initial layers a bit smaller than the ones on top, went back a few values and ended up with `0.125 mm` which sounds quite big to me but it allowed to get initial layer very clean and consistent with next layer so I think I got it right.
I can say it is easier to remove the cube from the bed now (used to be very difficult and I was using a mallet almost every time in the beginning) but it still doesn't come off on its own. I also noticed that now all three dimensions are almost identical (Z was about `0.5` less). And all X/Y/Z are ~19mm after cube cools down (the model is 20mm) so I wonder if I need to fix that one now | [
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"text": "Heating PLA even to 60°C will make it pliable and may affect dimensional accuracy; 100°C is l... | 2020/06/29 | [
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13,992 | I recently bought some SUNLU PLA black filament and was attempting a small print with it and it started to come out in strings and lumps and was incredibly inconsistent. Before this I'd been using some Eryone PLA and those prints were superb, been printing back to back successfully but after using the SUNLU all of my prints since have been having layer separation issues. I've cleaned the extruder, taken off the fan and cleared out the hotend of some wisps of filament, then flushed it through with some more reliable filament which looked better and replaced my magnetic bed sticker with a new one as the adhesion on the initial layer was poor even though the bed looked level. Once I replaced the sticker, the adhesion on the first layer is excellent. I thought I'd fixed the problems so tried an XYZ cube and still getting serious layering issues and the infill is thin. Any ideas what else I could do to fix this problem? I've put slicer settings below:
* Hot end temp: 210 °C
* Bed temp: 60 °C
* Fan speed: 100 %
* Print speed: 50 mm/s
No custom modifications to the standard Cura profile for the Ender 3.
My filament diameter setting in Cura is 1.75 mm and so is my filament.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ja49h.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/so9S3.jpg) | [
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"text": "This is under extrusion, not delamination. Delamination is the result of the under extrusion.\n\nIt typically happen... | 2020/07/01 | [
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14,000 | I am completely new to 3D Printing. I got my first printer, a Creality Ender 5 Pro, yesterday.
### My problem
I shutdown the printer without the axis being in home position (**X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 320** instead of **X: 0, Y: 0, Z: 0**). I thought this should be no problem but after turning the printer on again the info screen showed the axis position as 0, 0, 0 again.
So, I can't move the Z axis up now because the printer thinks it's already at 0.
NOTE: On the Ender 5 the bed lowers for increasing values of the Z. So 320 is the lowest and 0 the highest. I know that the motor works because it tries to go down further if I increase the Z position, but I am scared of damaging the motor because it can't move further but it tries to (judging by that weird sound).
### My question
Is this a normal behavior that the printer axis cant remember its position? Because I think when I built the printer the axes were also not at the 0, 0, 0 position and on the first start they moved back without any problems.
Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this? Or is this a broken printer?
PS: I could replicate this behavior on X and Y as well (moving them with prepare->move axis and then shutting down the printer). But in this case, I can easily disable the motors and move them manually back to 0, 0. This isn't the case for the Z Axis.
I hope I explained that understandably. | [
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"text": "Once you pull the plug or disable power to the stepper motors, the printer forgets its location. That is perfectly no... | 2020/07/02 | [
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14,004 | All my prints come out about 1 mm too short in the Z dimension. So for example a 20 mm cube comes out 19 mm high. A 10 mm cube comes out 9 mm high. The X and Y dimensions are fine. There's a little bit of visible elephant's foot at the bottom, so I assume whatever is happening is in the first couple of layers. The problem is fairly consistently around 1 mm even for larger prints.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Pjuev.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RSPfi.jpg)
The printer is an Ender 3 Pro with a glass bed and BLTouch for automatic leveling, but otherwise stock.
I had a [similar issue with another Ender 3 Pro](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/13940/expansion-in-bottom-skin-after-first-layer) that was resolved thanks to a link to [this question about problems in the first 3 mm](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/8022/first-3-mm-prints-poorly-then-fine-after-that). The solution was turning the eccentric nuts on the left and right to loosen the rollers that connect the X-axis gantry to the vertical posts. There the Z issue was not as pronounced, and I was getting really messy prints in the first few Z layers. Here that is not an issue; the first few layers look fine while they're printing. Loosening the rollers did not resolve it.
Things I've tried:
* Tightening and loosening the gantry rollers using the eccentric nuts. They're currently just tight enough that turning them moves the gantry, but loose enough that I can turn them without moving the gantry if I hold it still.
* Tightening and loosening the two little screws that attach the extruder mount to the Z-axis lead screw. Currently I made them just tight, then backed off 1/4 turn.
* Adding a shim between the vertical post and the Z-axis lead screw. The lead screw is now pretty much parallel to the post.
* Slowly turning the lead screw by hand to raise and lower the gantry. There's no noticeable catching or increased resistance anywhere.
* Varying the brand and type of PLA filament.
* Varying the temperature from 190 °C to 210 °C.
* Obsessively leveling and re-leveling the bed. Manually leveling, auto leveling with the BLTouch, and adjusting the z-offset.
I'm using the stock Ender 3 Pro profile in Cura, and printing at 0.2 mm layer height. I've kind of run out of things to check. What else can cause Z height loss in the first few layers like this? | [
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"text": "I have the exact same issue on my Ender 3 V2, perfect bed level using a dial gauge,\nperfect first layer te... | 2020/07/03 | [
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14,008 | I have a few 3D printers and now want to start building a custom 3D printer.
I want to build a 3D printer with multiple nozzles, and I want to make the hotend thin so the nozzles can be closer together.
What is the thinnest nozzle avalible to buy?
Are there any guides or details on how I could make a custom nozzle or modify a nozzle if I can't buy a thin nozzle? | [
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"text": "The size of the nozzle usually isn't the main factor for how close you can put nozzles together. To keep the ... | 2020/07/03 | [
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14,018 | I am building a medium-sized printer which needs to produce super-precise parts at a moderately fast print time. I frankly don't want to deal with belts or their tension issues but on the other hand, having ball screws on each axis will increase inertia...right?. I'm using Rexroth rails and will use (depending on what I decide) name brand belts or name brand ball screws. | [
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14,031 | I am new here and also new for the 3D printers world. I have built a 3D printer myself. Everything seems okay, but, when I install Marlin firmware I can't use the printer.
While my printer is connected to my power supply (12 V; 30 A) and when I push the button on the screen for selecting the menu items, Marlin is restarting.
But, when I connect my computer with USB and power supply together, Its working fine
I am using RobotDyn Arduino Mega 2560, RobotDyn Graphic LCD controller, RobotDyn DRV8825
Any help will be highly appreciated. | [
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14,040 | 
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/9fDW1.jpg)
I'm just finishing the set-up of a CR-10 Max. It is a new printer.
I don't manage to feed the filament through the material shortage sensor.
I can hear the micro switch click; the LED turns blue, then a few millimeters after that (33 mm total from the entry point), there is something that prevents the filament from going forward. I don't see any switch on the outside of the sensor, and I applied a reasonable amount of force on the filament.
Can you tell me how to troubleshoot this ? | [
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14,059 | I recently got an Ender 3 V2 and when I go to Info -> Version it says V1.0.0. [However online, there is V1.0.1 available.](https://www.creality.com/download/)
How can I update the Ender 3 V2. It is different as it isn't a ATMEL chip like the ATMEGA 2560 but rather an ARM processor. I own many arduino boards but apparently the chip has the bootloader already on it.
So how can I update the board, through some uploader, specific software or what exactly. | [
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14,095 | On a Creality CR-10 Max, there is a bag of unidentified spares, which include three unmarked nozzles.
There is a needle that is exactly 0.4 mm in diameter, which needle fits exactly inside one of nozzles. It also fits loosely in the largest nozzle, which diameter looks like it's really close to 0.8 mm on my digital caliper. The smallest one has only room for the tip of the needle, and the digital caliper reads 0.34 mm on the tip of the needle when pushed from the inside of the nozzle.
I assume the sizes are: 0.8 mm, 0.4 mm and 0.3 mm.
Can you tell me how to measure the diameter with better accuracy? | [
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14,115 | I had filament on my 3D45 coming out of threads on the nozzle.
To fix this I removed the nozzle to find the PTFE Liner in really bad shape. It looked crushed and deformed. Now the tough part, how do I replace the PTFE Liner. You can't seem to buy the liner and getting a replacement nozzle assembly from Dremel takes weeks. Can anybody help me figure this out please, I really would like to get back to printing!! | [
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"text": "The initial problem you had with filament coming out of the threads at the nozzle is caused by improper seating o... | 2020/07/21 | [
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14,130 | I'm printing 6 separate parts in one go, after 4 hours of printing one part failed, but the other 5 are printing nicely.
Is there a way to prevent the print from printing the failed part and continue printing the other 5 parts.
I'm using Cura and an Ender 3 printer. | [
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14,138 | Got my Ender 3 v2 and stack with the bed leveling.
Used default settings, Creality slicer 4.2, test PLA from the kit and print model <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013319> (4 squares in each corner and 1 in the middle), nozzle 200 °C, bed 60 °C.
After some adjustments, I have good solid pieces on the bed corners but the center one has small gaps. Is it possible to fix this problem?
Corner pice:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BGeA2.jpg)
Center piece:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gfSas.jpg) | [
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"text": "The gaps are, because the nozzle is to far from the bed at this point. It may sound like a big deal, but actually t... | 2020/07/25 | [
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14,140 | I have a Prusa i3 3D printer and am using Slic3r for slicing.
I've noticed that my extruder is underextruding. I've correctly set the nozzle diameter and the filament diameter and I've already tried to increment the extrusion multiplier (which is currently set to 1.1). As Slic3r suggests this is a maximum value, I'm wondering if there is something else wrong.
Does anybody a have suggestions on which settings I can look at?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mYACg.jpg) | [
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"text": "It looks like the nozzle is too far from the bed, try leveling the bed again - that should solve the probl... | 2020/07/26 | [
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14,156 | I found this in Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms (2013), page 162, or at the start of "Chapter 11, Elements of Mechanisms," subsection 11.1.2 Revolute
I don't understand how it's supposed to go from 1 to 2 when b rotates around c.
The description reads:
>
> This element is a rotational flexural pivot constructed by three
> curved beams to achieve a large range of motion. Theoretically, this
> element will rotate without axial-drift motion, because of the
> symmetric arrangement about the axis.
>
>
> (1) Rigid body a is fixed. Rigid body b rotates about c-axis.
>
> (2) Deformed configuration
>
> (3) Photo of the device.
>
>
>
It's unclear which part of the beam is attached to what. I can understand how one curved beam could switch its curvature (in general, like they do in bi-stable latches), but I don't see how they could both at the end of of the rotation end up curved in a way that's opposite to how they started.
How could c2/c3 go from the configuration in 1 to the configuration in 2 ?
Or could they be two different iterations of the same idea ? I can see how (1) or (2) would resist rotation of c around b, and snap it back to its original position. The text claims (2) is the deformed configuration though. I can also see how (1) with just c1, c3, c5 would deform to (1) with c0, c2, c4 if (b) was turning anti clockwise.
Also, what would be an ideal material to print this kind of compliant mechanism ?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/f9Vka.jpg) | [
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14,162 | I'm new to this game, and recently upgraded the hotend on my Ender 3 Pro to a *clone* of an E3D V6, as I'm keen to do nylon prints at some point. I noticed however that this one I got has a teflon liner which seems to negate the advantage of a metal hotend entirely.
I'm wondering what temperature it's safe to run this hot end up to?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6Uth3.jpg "Teflon insert#2")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QazJ2.jpg "Teflon insert#1") | [
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14,167 | Ender3 v2, SIENOC PETG which advises temperature of 230-250 °C on the box. I'm printing on top of cleaned blue tape, using a temperature of 230 °C for the nozzle and 80 °C for the bed.
I've had all sorts of trouble getting first layer to stick but finally managed it. However the thin end of this hook has now warped and the other end is too.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/QznJK.jpg "Photo showing warped hook (left hand side)")
Looking at the image above, you can see it's much thinner at that end. Should I try a lower nozzle temperature? Or bed? Or both?
The fans are at 50 % (set in Cura), should I have left them on 100 %?
---
I have to mention that the tape has been cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. I can print PLA no problem direct to the bed but am having so much trouble with PETG - rather than warping this could actually be adhesion problems.
I've tried a higher initial layer (0.3 mm vs 0.2 mm), 0.1 mm Z offset, gapped to 1 sheet of paper as per PLA, then 2 sheets - I've done that 50 mm in on each corner and then checked it in the middle of the bed too. Initial layer is at 10 mm/s and then to 40 mm/s
As you can see in the picture the brim looks rather flattened, but if I give more gap (e.g. 3 sheets) it doesn't even stick at all.
I have managed to print a benchy after maybe 6 attempts, but this was luck and had really poor adhesion, a gentle tap with my finger dislodged it. The actual print was fine.
Tempted to try another PETG but wanted to make sure I'm not missing anything obvious - at the moment I can't even print the brim again because it won't stick.
I'm really confused because a lot of I read suggests PETG sticks really well but I've having the exact opposite experience. | [
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14,168 | I am converting an old Makerbot Replicator 2 to Marlin Firmware and everything works. The printer heats up, auto bed levels, and starts the print. However, after a couple minutes (usually after the 1st or 2nd layer), the printer crashes and stops. It does not continue printing and I have to restart it again. It crashed for every single print, I have not had any successful prints yet.
Here is a video showing the issue:
The camera was started right when the print started. After about 1.5 minutes, the printer crashes, and the LCD screen freezes.
Here are photos of a couple of prints that crashed:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VHzNi.jpg "Photos of sample prints")
I have all of my code here: [RosalieWessels](https://github.com/RosalieWessels) / [**Marlin\_MakerbotReplicator2**](https://github.com/RosalieWessels/Marlin_MakerbotReplicator2)
My models are sliced with Cura and printed in PLA.
I tried hotend temperatures of 200, 210, and 220 degrees C. My print speed is around 50 or 60 mm/s.
Here is a sample sliced file that was used:
<https://filebin.net/df33a3jjwgemz0m8> | [
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"text": "Few things to try,\n\n**Check G-Code** - Verify that the slicer is not the problem, slice using some other... | 2020/08/03 | [
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14,171 | The cube is a 2 cm x 2 cm with infill at 30 % and layer height 0.2 mm, more details can be seen below.
I'm printing with PETG using an Ender 3 printer.
There seems to be a gap between the perimeter walls, I have already referred to other forums and specifically: " [How to fix wall separation in 3D prints (gaps in between wall perimeters)?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/10276/how-to-fix-wall-separation-in-3d-prints-gaps-in-between-wall-perimeters) ", but I still can't find a solution for it.
Most would suggest to tighten up the pulleys, I've tried that, but that didn't work. Others also suggested tweaking to a higher temperature, again I've tried from a range of 230-250 °C, but this also failed.
Infill and initial/top layers seems to be strong and all lines are bonded except for the perimeter walls.
More details regarding the problem:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WjFY6m.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1wJjGm.jpg)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Z2tJGm.jpg)
Here are my print settings:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IOZBWm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SNKEbm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/srVksm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1Q6zNm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i9nPsm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GgFkvm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3e3zVm.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GNGD5m.png) | [
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14,181 | I am building an enclosure for an Ender 3 Pro printer, and am planning on the power supply and LCD unit being outside the enclosure. How important is it to move the printer controller (where the SD card is inserted) outside the enclosure?
Would leaving it in place affect its longevity?
Answers to the first round of comments/questions:
* I expect to be primarily printing in the 200C-270C range.
* I'm not worried about losing heat from opening the doors - I'll be putting the SD card in prior to initiating printing.
* I'm thinking the stepper motors are somewhat of a moot point, there's no way I could move them outside of the enclosure.
* My printer is all stock. | [
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14,186 | I am going to design and build a 3D printer. I want the highest quality and accuracy so nothing except that is important for me. Which cartesian design has the highest quality and accuracy? CoreXY, Prosi, or Gantry (Ultimaker)?
Also, is it better to have a nozzle that moves in just direction "X", directions "X and Y", or "X, Y and Z"? | [
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14,189 | I know that CoreXY kinematics is very complex and hard to calculate for the firmware making it better to use a 32-bit board. For some reason, I can't use any 32-bit board. What problems will occur if I use an 8-bit board like Arduino Mega with a CoreXY 3D printer?
Everything that I wrote in this question about hard kinematic calculations was referenced from this video, [HyperCube 3D Printer 8-Bit Speed Wall](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySqj3gPqfrs), by Tech2c (the designer and builder of hypercube). After watching the video I doubted using an 8-bit board. | [
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14,199 | I am printing small mechanical pieces in ABS:
* 100 ºC bed temperature
* 70 ºC Room temperature
* 250 ºC nozzle temperature
* 0.4 mm nozzle, at 0.15 mm per layer.
* 100.8 % scale to compensate ABS dimensional innacuracy.
The first layer is printed correctly, but later, corners warp and first 10 mm get deformed (See images).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5QsSPm.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Nsummm.jpg)
How do I solve this? Unfortunately, I cannot increase room temperature over 70 ºC
Here is a picture while printing, we can see that the edges get warped even far over the first layer. (Sorry, the picture quality is not so good):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dWjCG.jpg) | [
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14,200 | I need to make chocolate busts.
Is it better to make silicon reverse of the bust and cast the bust or directly print it using chocolate printer (I prefer cost and process speed over quality)? I don't have chocolate printer so if this method will be better I will need to use some 3D printing service.
I need to make quite a large amount of the busts. | [
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"text": "> \n> I prefer ... process speed\n> \n> \n> \n\nPrinting is unlikely to win that battle. You might print a... | 2020/08/06 | [
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14,206 | I'm trying to model the threads of a "Poland Spring" 500 ml bottle so I can 3D print an adapter for it. But I can't find information about it. I emailed them but they said they didn't have the information.
How can I find this information out?
The bottle seems to use non standard threads. It uses 3 threads 120 degrees apart that does not go all the way around. Any information on how to get this information?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nEnwV.png) | [
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"text": "You can use a program known as [OpenSCAD](http://www.openscad.org/) with the [threads library](https://dkprojects.... | 2020/08/07 | [
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14,213 | Is there a way of reducing the amount and strength of Model support when slicing in Cura?
Cleaning a model with large amounts of support can consume large amounts of time. | [
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"text": "You could reduce the `Support Density`:\n\n> \n> A higher value results in better overhangs, but the supports are ha... | 2020/08/08 | [
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14,221 | Does anyone know of a hot end that is sealed? What I meaning is that the hot end has a rubber seal where the filament enters to keep the top airtight (in order to eliminate oozing).
I am looking to build a dual extruder printer but, I do not want any oozing from the hot end which is not in use. I could build a system to retract and 'close' the nozzle but it would be much more elegant if it would work to just seal the top of the hot end. Thus achieving the same effect as when you pull up water with a straw by covering the top with your finger. | [
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14,259 | first time here.
I recently bought an Anycubic Mega S and I'm venturing in the 3D world. Lots to learn for sure. I have printed a few items so far and all went pretty well.
My question is about something that caught my attention while browsing on Thingiverse. I was looking for an organizer for a board game that I have and every option I found there shows the piece in a vertical position rather than horizontal which seems like the natural position of the piece.
I would like to know why most of this types of pieces are set to be printed in a vertical position rather than horizontal.
Here is the original piece [Betrayal at Baldur's Gate Organizer](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949421) by [Jason Patch](https://www.thingiverse.com/playfutbol2/designs). As you can see in the image below the piece is naturally horizontal but the actual files to print (blue ones) are all vertical.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Vik4M.png)
PS.: I didn't really know which tags to use so I just added 3D, feel free to suggest any other I will happily edit it. :) | [
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14,263 | I've been wrestling with a filament grinding problem for a few weeks now and I'm stuck.
The problem manifests itself as starting a print alright then extrusion stops while the printer keeps moving. When I pull the filament out I see indents from the gear then a depression where it ground down the filament.
Filament used is 1.75 mm Spool3D PETG on a Hictop printer, which is a clone of a Prusa i3. I don't know the exact part number though. The extruder is direct drive, and the 28 mm heatbreak is connected to a heatsink block rather than something with fins. Nozzle is standard 0.4 mm.
My print settings are quite conservative. Speed is 20 mm/s, retraction is 20 mm/s (though it never grinds on retraction), temperature is 255 °C, which is 10 °C higher than what works in my other printers. No print cooling.
At first I thought there was a clog, but I can push the filament though by hand quite well. I also use cleaning filament frequently and it never pulls out any debris. Heatbreak and nozzle have been changed to fresh items.
Does anybody have any other ideas of things I can try, or should I just get a new extruder? | [
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14,264 | Lately I've been having problems with overhangs not adhering when curvature is outward (stringing across instead) that look like what you'd see at insufficient temperature, and that go away with temperature jacked up a bit (PLA at 220 °C, which is a bit extreme) or fan disabled. Is it possible that the hotend thermistor has drifted and is no longer accurate, making the actual temperature lower than nominal? Or do these things fail hard when they fail? | [
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"text": "It is indeed possible that the thermistor is broken (yet not sure). I am aware of two types of issues with ... | 2020/08/17 | [
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14,275 | After a resin print completes, what is the expected process to finish the print? Is some cleaning expected? I also some manufacturers sell UV chambers to cure the print surface, is this required?
I purchased a low-cost printer from China that is quite high-quality hardware, but sadly short on documentation. Insight on the proper post-print process is appreciated. | [
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14,280 | I'm pretty new in the 3D printing world, and there are some doubts that have come my way and I've not been able to find anywhere.
Usually, I'm going to try to print pieces bigger than the bed of my Elegoo Mars Pro (which is 115 x 65 x 150 mm, so it's pretty small). Everywhere I try to look at this they are talking about Fused Filament Fabrication (FFF) printers, and I guess that material will make the answer to these questions to be different, that's why I'm asking here. **All of these questions are focused on SLA printers.**
Is there any kind of technique / slicer software to be able to print those pieces by parts?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I've read about slicers, but there seem to be a bunch of them, and some of them work best with some printers than others, and have different features but I haven't seen any that helps in this matter.
Also, I've seen the typical plane cut, but this doesn't make it easy later on to "fit" pieces. I would need some kind of female - male joint. Is there any (free) slicer that helps in that, and makes those joints to be accurate and solid?
Thank you!
---
I removed the "shrink size" part in the question and published it [as a separate question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14283/curated-resin-size-shrink-and-methods-to-reduce-it). Also moved [to a different question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14284/sla-resin-post-processing-gluing-parts-together) "gluing separate pieces" part.\* | [
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14,284 | I've recently purchased an Elegoo Mars Pro 3d printer, and I was wondering when printing large pieces that need to be printed in different steps: is there some kind of post-processing to make it more suitable for gluing them?
I know of joints and so on, but sometimes pieces are big but not thick enough to be able to put a joint somewhere, so I guess the only solution would be to glue them.
Should I use some kind of specific glue to get better results with resins? Is there any process (post-processing, reducing layer height when printing, leave the resin being curated more time...) to improve the sticking of the different parts? Or can we go with any kind of "strong multisurface glue" without any further post-processing steps, and the results should be the same in matters of quality?
Thank you! | [
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14,304 | I was surprised to learn that, AFAICT, neither Protolabs, Xometry, or Shapeways\* can supply 3D printed parts from acrylic. Is anyone aware of a commercial source of 3D printed parts made from acrylic [polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA)]?
\*Shapeways does 3D print their "Fine Detail Plastic" which is an acrylic. However, during the printing process, the material is UV cured so, AFAIK, it is no longer a thermoplastic (as PMMA is). I need the thermoplastic property for my application. | [
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14,313 | I'm looking for a filament that is strong, doesn't crack and doesn't break easily and is impact resistant. I'm currently using PLA and it's strong, but, I'm looking for something that doesn't snap or break when dropped. | [
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14,326 | In all the bigger prints I print on my Ender 5 with PETG I have problems with warping and raft detachment during printing. I have a glass bed and I'm using Ultimaker Cura 4.6.1 standard printing settings for PETG (Recently I had some success using 245 °C nozzle temperature and 80 °C build plate).
Any ideas how to reduce those problems? | [
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"text": "This sounds like a bed leveling issue. As reported by others, I get much less warping with PETG than with ABS... | 2020/08/25 | [
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14,331 | I am currently trying to print a gear with the possibility to connect it to the shaft of a DC motor. The following picture best describes what the shaft of the motor looks like by showing the hole printed in the gear:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UNHn5.png)
So far this works well for a short amount of time, however since the gear is connected to another gear that is from time to time exerting quite some resistance already after a few revolutions the shaft starts to wear out the material that is holding it and it turns without powering the gear, i.e. the printed part is not strong enough to withstand the torque of the motor.
I am wondering what the best way forward would be here. I see multiple options:
* Design a different connection to the shaft, however I don't know of any
* Switch to a different material, I am currently using PLA, but I could also go for ABS or PETG if any of them would provide advantages. For PLA vs ABS I found some conflicting information which one is "harder"
* Play with the parameters of the print. At the moment I am only using 3 wall layers, I wonder if increasing the number of wall layers would improve rigidity.
Are there other ideas? What could you recommend me to improve this connection? | [
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14,338 | Is it possible to use a standard color inkjet cartridge to color filament for full color 3D printing?
It seems like a natural next step to me, but I haven't seen much of anything on this. (Just a few ancient experiments on reprap wiki.)
I've learned that some inkjet printers have the heads built into the cartridge whereas others it's part of the printer. I think the former would be more appropriate.
Unfortunately I haven't seen anything on actually how to drive the cartridges. I'm guessing the mfgr's treat this as a trade secret (?) Still, there's got to be some overseas reverse-engineer... something... on this, right?
Anybody have resources/notes they'd like to share? | [
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14,339 | I am still very much a novice and learning so here is the situation:
1. Filament was not extruding from nozzle. Checked the filament feeder (worked fine, filament was being squeezed through) and tried to push filament through hot nozzle to see if anything came out. Nothing did.
2. Did a cold pull, got a little bit of gunk out. Second cold pull didn't work out like the first one, and the glob of PLA that I fed into the nozzle remained stuck there.
3. I heated and removed the nozzle properly. I am going to soak it in acetone to get rid of the gunk inside. However, when I tried to install my other nozzle, it would take in the threads, and I see now that a little bit of the plastic from the last cold pull melted and trickled down.
What can I do to clean this out and install the nozzle? It is on an Ender 3 Pro. | [
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"text": "I fixed this by using a q-tip to wipe out the threads!"
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14,360 | I am very new to 3D printing. I am looking to purchase the Ender 3 V2 but before I do I would appreciate some advice on what I should purchase as the upgrades/addons for it. I'm not sure as to what I would need for the V2 since most websites are for the original Ender 3 so I don't know if the V2 already has that upgrade/addons or not when compared to the original. I would rather get all the upgrades/addons and the Ender 3 V2 at the same to save on shipping and all.
Pretty much the only upgrade/addons I have constantly seen is the auto bed level.
So if anyone can help out a first time 3D printer noob then that would be great! | [
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14,361 | I just bought a new RAMPS 1.6 shield to replace my old RAMPS 1.4 shield. The problem is that it's just not working, the motors don't move, heatbed/nozzle don't get heated. It was all working with the RAMPS 1.4 shield.
I checked the RAMPS 1.6 and there's no bridging in the solder joints.
The DRV8255 is drawing current also but the motor doesn't move.
I am using Repetier Firmware. I tried Marlin (default) and even it's not working. | [
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14,377 | If I need to 3D print a hollow box that can not have any light permeating into the box, what would be the best course of action? Should I 3D print the hollow box as a whole or print out the 6 sides individually and put them together at the end? And if I do the second option, what would be the best way to put the pieces together (design/connect grooves or use glue)?
I am very new to 3D printing so any feedback would be very much appreciated! | [
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"text": "1. Print it as a whole object\n2. Use 20% infill.\n3. Profit!"
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14,381 | I recently upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a [direct drive kit](https://printermods.com/products/direct-drive-mod-for-creality-ender-3-cr-10), primarily so I can print soft materials like TPU. I bought a spool of [Overture TPU](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B07VBKDM74) to try it out.
I'm getting really bad stringing on every print, to the point where it's pretty much unusable. This is my first time printing with TPU, so I'm at a loss for what to do.
**Direct Drive mod** -
After modding the printer I did a few prints with PLA, and it works great with very little stringing. So I assume I assembled the mod correctly and that's not the issue.
**Material** -
Reviews of the Overture TPU on Amazon mostly say it has low stringing and are generally positive, so I'm assuming it's not just bad filament.
**Temperature** - The consensus in the Amazon reviews seems to be that 230°C is the sweet spot. I did a temperature tower from 205 °C to 230 °C by 5 °C, and the print quality and stringing was pretty much uniform throughout.
**Retraction** - I tried with retraction off, then with 1 mm, 2 mm, and 6.5 mm, in various combinations with temperature and speed. Results varied in details, but all were pretty bad.
**Speed** - I tried slowing down to 15 mm/s (from Cura's default of 50). Results got even worse.
Following are photos of a stringing test with various combinations of settings.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/GF47t.jpg)
PLA for reference - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qBOOk.jpg)
TPU - 205 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/vgTIt.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm - Print speed 15 mm/s
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SygEx.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 1 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JLrgw.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 2 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/LVlGv.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - Retraction 6.5 mm
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uwuMV.jpg)
TPU - 230 °C - Layer thickness 0.12 mm - No retraction
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lUOSK.jpg)
TPU - 240 °C - Layer thickness 0.2 mm - No retraction
Is there something else I should try to reduce stringing? Is it possible that I just got a bad spool of TPU? Or is it more likely something's wrong with my printer? | [
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14,389 | I already tried a lot settings in Cura and try to search for a solution but without success. Maybe someone got this issue and solved it.
I want to prevent Cura from printing such gaps at the wings to make it in one run. With ironing one run would (hopefully) bring better results. See the animation for what I mean.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4C91H.gif)
Why want to do this? I hope to prevent thes ironing issues shown in the following pic.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tq5vX.jpg) | [
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14,397 | I've got a direct drive extruder printer, that I have equipped with a Bowden-tube to give it a nice and defined filament path from my spool and to protect it from moisture when it exits my drybox. I've noticed that this 1 m Bowden tube adds quite a bit of friction to the system. I am keenly aware of it as feeding filament form the drybox into the tube by hand is quite a chore already, especially with high friction materials like PETG. Also I notice that I can sustain only lower volumetric flow without skipping or underextrusion after adding the tube.
So I figured, why not have a motor on both sides of the bowden tube? A big and heavy one at the entrance, providing a baseline pressure on the filament. And a comparatively light one on the other end, adding that fine control you want for your retraction, rather than trying to implement that via a 1 m wet noodle full of static friction.
Seems like it would give you the best of both worlds. Not quite as light as a full Bowden system, but you could have all the control of a direct drive system, with much less of the weight/flow rate tradeoff.
Anyone aware of this being done before? Or any good arguments as to why it is a stupid idea? Seems like a fairly straightforward mod; in the simplest implementation, just add an additional extruder of the same spec on the other side of your Bowden tube, and split the control signal to be the same amongst both motors. | [
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14,419 | I have a Monoprice MP10 with magnetic flexible paper coated build plate and I have just tried printing bed level test which is, of necessity, very thin on the build plate.
Watching the item print, I saw that the bed level was obviously way way off at the back left corner and down the left side. I was printing with PLA. There was no point in letting the print continue so I stopped it, let the build plate cool down and tried to remove the print.
The bottom line and right hand side came off cleanly but the top left corner and all down the left side stuck firmly. As it was so thin a layer there is no chance of getting something underneath an edge without damaging the paper surface. I tried acetone but this had no effect other than turning the surface white and thin cracks appearing in the paper surface. Wiped down with alcohol which toned down the white but was no help in getting the thin layer of PLA off.
I tried reheating surface, no joy. Does anyone have a foolproof way of getting this off as soap and water don't work either? | [
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14,421 | Im using Prusa Slicer 2.1 for my FlyingBear Ghost 4.
I just changed my 0.4 mm nozzle for a 0.2 mm but it seems to jam in the heater probably due to too much filament trying to get out by the nozzle. Where is the setting to reduce the filement speed and how much I should reduce it?
Here are my settings:
[Config.txt](https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j_RsFQI1EtfSzptggYjGehpdlJlX7rsK/view?usp=sharing) | [
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"text": "0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are half the diameter, but the maximum flow is not just half: Flow scales with the area. The 0.4 m... | 2020/09/13 | [
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14,435 | I am using "Pretty PETG" along with PrusaSlicer's consecutive print mode.
What I am noticing is that upon finishing the first print, the printer hits `MINTEMP BED Fixed`. I'm not sure if it's immediate because I let the prints run overnight but I assume the bed cools down and then the error is hit.
I'm just starting to learn G-code and my initial thought was there's an errant bed temperature instruction but the only `M140 S0` instructions I see are in the `end_gcode` and near the bottom of the file. Maybe there a `goto` in G-code which may be running after `M140 S0` which then causes the `MINTEMP BED` issue? Perhaps there's something else going on? | [
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14,439 | On 16 September 2020, Autodesk announced changes in the way that Fusion 360 can be used for non-commercial use with their Personal license. As a hobbyist, most of these changes will not affect me very much, since I do not use Fusion 360's advanced features. The most irksome will be only being allowed to have up to ten "documents" active at any one time, the rest having to be archived.
However, Autodesk are also restricting the number of file formats that you can export to. For example, the STEP file format will no longer be available with the Personal license. Will this mean that I will not be able to move my models to another CAD package, such as FreeCAD, once the changes come into effect (without first buying a commercial license)?
[Autodesk: Changes to Fusion 360 for personal use](https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/learn-explore/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Fusion-360-Free-License-Changes.html)
**Edit: Good news. Autodesk have announced, on 25 September 2020, that the facility to export models to STEP files will be retained for the free-to-use, personal license.** | [
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14,440 | I took the plunge and bought a resin printer. I was wondering if I could use full strength home-brew vodka at 90 % instead of using isopropyl alcohol before anything is added to clean prints with?
I cannot seem to find anywhere or anyone that has tried this. | [
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14,443 | I had my 3D printer powered by dual 24 V PSUs wired in parallel and my heatbed was wired into the main using a SSR to help power it. I replaced the two PSUs with a single Corsair 750 W ATX. My printer runs smoother and there's much less wiring clutter to deal with but now no matter what the heatbed will not heat up.
The main connection of the ATX I purchased is an 8 pin connection so I tried using all 4 wires to power my printer and it didn't make a difference, I tried using the SSR again using 2 connections from the ATX leaving the other 2 to run the motherboard but that didn't work either. I even tried MOSFET and that also failed. I don't see why the Heatbed no longer heats up yet the thermistor is more accurate and working properly since my switch to the ATX, do I need to go up to a 1000 W ATX instead? I can't imagine what more I could do.
 | [
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14,456 | The title pretty much sums up the issue. It was happening before moving to an SKR Mini E3 V1.2 and is still happening with the new board.
If I run A `G28`, then a `G29` - while *not* heated - I will get some mesh data (poor mesh data because I haven't levelled the bed but that's not the main issue).
If I then repeatedly run `G29` (lets say 5 times) there will be variation between the measurement but only and expected amount and nothing more.
```
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.592 +0.270 +0.010
1 +0.082 +0.010 -0.062
2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.597 +0.267 +0.002
1 +0.085 +0.007 -0.065
2 +0.215 +0.078 -0.065
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.607 +0.267 -0.002
1 +0.085 +0.010 -0.065
2 +0.212 +0.075 -0.060
```
Although it does continue to climb a bit, it's a BLTouch they're not *the* most accurate things so I'm not worrying about it.
However, if I heat the nozzle (200 °C) and bed (60 °C):
```
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.537 +0.252 +0.022
1 +0.057 -0.002 -0.050
2 +0.200 +0.075 -0.087
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.495 +0.203 -0.030
1 +0.020 -0.027 -0.097
2 +0.150 +0.027 -0.127
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.462 +0.180 -0.067
1 -0.002 -0.072 -0.150
2 +0.122 -0.010 -0.170
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.422 +0.132 -0.105
1 -0.057 -0.140 -0.192
2 +0.075 -0.043 -0.215
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.367 +0.082 -0.165
1 -0.110 -0.155 -0.233
2 +0.030 -0.102 -0.255
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.347 +0.045 -0.190
1 -0.135 -0.180 -0.250
2 +0.002 -0.127 -0.280
Bilinear Leveling Grid:
0 1 2
0 +0.322 +0.032 -0.215
1 -0.155 -0.230 -0.280
2 -0.020 -0.142 -0.315
```
As you can see the variations in the measurements are *very* high.
This must be a known issue because Marlin does have a `PROBING_HEATERS_OFF` option but this would take even more time and I'm just curious if there is a reason for this or another fix to it.
I don't believe it would be a current issue since the power supply used can deliver many amps so it's probably something like electrical noise. I think it's fine to leave it because you only home and probe once during a print so the measurements would be 'accurate' but it would be reassuring to find out a reason and a possible fix.
I measured the rail with my oscilloscope and it actually isn't very noisy, whether I was heating or not. However, Vmax was 4.6 and Vmin was 4.4 and I'm wondering if that is too low. These voltages didn't change while heating so I think they are always that low.
**Edit**
For completeness, here an image of the printer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2VPM3.jpg)
and here graphs about the BLtouch data over time:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MivOq.png) | [
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14,457 | How would one go about squaring the gantry relative to the frame?
Referring to the image below, distance A and distance B are not equal.
Also would this account for the reason why when I attempt to print a circle it is not perfectly circular, and when I try to print a square, it is tilted?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/utLCW.jpg) | [
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14,470 | I'm trying to connect my PC to my Anet A8 through [Pronterface](https://www.pronterface.com/) on Ubuntu.
But when I'm clicking on the "connect" button in Pronterface, all I see is "*Connecting ...*".
What I did so far
* added my user to the `dialout` group
* tried to run it as `root`
* tried different baudrates
* switch to different USB cables
* tried to install and run it on a different machine and different OS (Windows) with nearly the same result (additionally I see repeated lines with `M105`, but no response)
The printer itself works - I want to connect to it, to "PID tune" it, because I added a different fan duct.
**How can I make sure the board isn't somewhat damaged, and its just my setup?** | [
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14,481 | So I have some old filament that I originally got for a 3D pen. The problem is it's unlabeled and I haven't been able to find anything that might help me distinguish whether it's PLA or ABS. The bag it all came in says that wherever this filament came from only makes PLA and ABS so it's got to be on of those two.
I have a roll of PLA in my 3D printer right now, but I can't tell if it's the same as the filament I have for the 3D pen. It's been a while since I've used the 3D pen, but I do remember whenever you used it, it would produce a very very bad smell. I've also noticed that the filament seems to be more flexible that the PLA in my machine. This makes me think it could be ABS, because the PLA smells far better than what I remember the 3D pen smelling like, and it's more flexible.
I also don't really want to do any heat tests or anything on the filament, so if the smell and flexibility is enough to determine which filament it is, could anyone tell me? | [
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14,488 | What materials work well for lubricating moving PLA, ABS, or PETG parts? I'm talking items like the
the [Gear Bearings](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451) or [Print in Place Engine](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774).
I've played with a few lubricants on my own, including hand lotion, trumpet valve oil, and carmex/vaseline. Of these, the vaseline has worked best for me so far, but I'd like to hear what has worked well for others, or especially if there's anyone here who understands the chemistry involved and could explain what to look for in different situations. | [
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14,497 | Not storing left-over photopolymer resin back with pristine resin in its original shipping can seems to be a common recommendation.
What is the best practice here? Store in a separate bottle and pour this "once around the block" resin first for the next print? | [
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14,501 | My only functional computer at the moment is a raspberry pi, and I was wondering if there was any software that supported it. My printer is a Newmatter mod-t, but I might be able to modify other software to support it | [
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14,505 | I want to print a part from Thingiverse. In the description, the creater writes that he used SBS to print it. I did some research because I never heard of SBS.
I found a description on Filaments.directory that describes it as:
>
> Poly(styrene-butadiene-styrene) is a hard, durable rubber that is commonly used for shoe soles, tires and other products that experience high wear.
>
>
>
But if I search for SBS filaments to buy, there only shows ABS up. Did I misunderstood something and SBS is the same as ABS. | [
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14,516 | Of course I'm referring to side by side and not stacking or overlapping. 200 x 200 mm PEI and Kapton sheets are more readily available than 400 x 400 sheets. I'm wondering if anyone has tried this and if the edges of the sheets cause a problem. | [
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14,521 | I am using an AnyCubic Photon Resin Printer. I have used the ([WoW model viewer](https://wowmodelviewer.net) to export a miniture that I am hoping to 3D print.
However, when I look at the model in photon workshop, certain parts appear in a different colour, and those parts are printing incorrectly on the final version. For example, if you look at the model below the headpiece feathers printed as a solid block all the way to the base of the model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OnmjT.png)[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UiLiX.png)
Looking at the slicing file, this is what photon workshop exported. I believe the issue may be that, because these are models deisigned for games and not 3d printing, they have only one surface and what I am looking at in Blue is what the photon workshop considers to be the inside of the model. Would ye be able to recommend any steps that I could do to adjust the models to allow them be 3D printed?
<https://mega.nz/file/p6I00JZK#qhQplzOTh6w7yZxbGw2vtRRKc-iVDp_QHOvaWfPtULs>
The above link is the object as exported from WoW Model viewer. | [
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14,531 | My goal is to have a speaker inside a PLA casing to produce a nice hearable sound from a submersible item.
I intended to produce that sound from a Piezo buzzer stuck on a membrane held tight in hollow place between two pieces, but the result is unsatisfactory as the sound gets muffled to inaudible levels.
Is there any known 3D printable methods to permit for a sound to be heard from PLA?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TLaB3.jpg) | [
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14,536 | After some months of good quality prints, since yesterday my heatbed does not heat anymore.
I've a BQ Prusa i3 Hephestos with [this](https://www.reprap.org/wiki/File:RRD-Mk2b-dual-power_blk.jpg) heatbed, controlled by [this](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71M29xMMLZL._AC_SY355_.jpg) mechanical relay and powered by [this](https://www.amazon.it/Lixada-Trasformatore-Tensione-Interruttore-Alimentazione/dp/B00ECW6K74) power source. I know that a mechanical relay is not the best choice for a 3D printer, but I only had one of those when I've built the bed and setting *bang bang control* for the plate gave me some satisfactory prints.
Since if I connect directly the heatbed to the power source, the latter stops working (I think because of its shortage protection), I'm almost sure that in some way I've managed to fry my heatbed.
Before buying a new one, though, I'd like to understand how I've broken the current heatbed without doing anything but printing, to avoid similar situations in the future.
I'm afraid I've forgotten some component whose functionality is to protect the heatbed (maybe a diode or something similar, I'm sorry but I have never studied electronics).
I've attached a very simple wiring diagram showing the current configuration.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8bHA7.png) | [
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14,570 | I love PrusaSlicer but I am having a problem.
As you can see in the picture the head makes movements that seem useless[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1CLrS.png)
(blue lines that come out of the print in the corners and go back instantly in the object) and these make damages to the object during the print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UOA3y.jpg)
How to configure PrusaSlicer so that doesn't happen again ?
Thank you.
Edit : Thank you for your answers but I think we have a misunderstanding. I already have z-hop activated, the real problem is that the slicer makes the head move outside the print (that's what you can see on the first screenshot, every blue line crossing the print shouldn't exist).
I actually don't have this problem with curaengine on repetierhost as you can see in the following screenshot :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c0b73.png) | [
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"text": "Enable Z-Hop. I don't know what the actual parameter is called but it should say something like \"Z-Hop\"."
... | 2020/10/12 | [
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14,599 | I'm trying to print a small box with 1 mm thick walls.
The box has rounded corners.
Cura slices the rounded corners with straight internal lines instead of rounded lines:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/5Kw87.jpg)
The reason for these straight lines is that Cura is using infill to fill the walls, because it determines that there's not enough space in a 1 mm wall for three 0.4 mm passes.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dDQAc.png)
This causes the walls to have small imperfections in the final print.
I was able to solve this by increasing the model wall thickness to 1.2 mm (to allow for 3 0.4 mm lines), but even then it wasn't doing it as a single continuous line, but instead breaking it into short lines at the corner:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zqSAN.png)
Is there a way to avoid this issue without increasing the wall thickness, and have 3 continuous lines? | [
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... | 2020/10/16 | [
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14,607 | **[SOLVED]** on [EDIT 3]
I just finished changing my i3 Mega's PTFE tube and brass nozzle, reassembled it, always taking care not to damage the heating element and thermistor wires.
Then I check the temperature and it was cooling down, despite the set temperature being higher (210 ºC). I turned it off, let it cool down and turned it back on. I set it again to 210 ºC and it only reaches about 135 ºC-140 ºC, not going over it.
So I change the heating element and thermistor for fresh new ones (original ones, that came with the printer) and the same behavior takes place: not heating up beyond 140 ºC.
Any ideas on why this is happening or how to fix it? I checked the connectors and they all seem to be fine. Cooling fans run normally as well.
Printer: Anycubic i3 MEGA. All stock parts, except the new nozzle (standard brass nozzle) and the PTFE tube (a blue one with 1.9 mm internal diameter). I'm setting the temperatures through the printer's interface, as I have always done.
**[EDIT]**
I did check some stuff with the multimeter and what I got is that:
* The cables leading to the print head are fine;
* The heating element's voltage is correct and the MOSFET seems to be
working fine both by checking the voltage and from the LED that
lights up when it is sending current to the HE;
* The resistance of the HE is correct as well;
Form that, I am guessing the problem is the current fed to the HE. Later today I will try to heat both the nozzle and the bed to the (safe) max temperatures and see if the bed heating is problematic too. If so, the problem should be related to current.
If anyone has any other ideas, they are appreciated! :)
**[EDIT2]**
Heating up the print bed and the hotend at the same time didn't affect the bed at all. It heated up at the same pace as usual. Since the cables are fine, it shouldn't be a problem related to the power supply.
So I'm gessing the problem is the motherboard (Trigorilla 1.1). It didn't seem to have any burned components at a glance but I'm gonna check with a multimeter.
**[EDIT3]**
Turns out I messed up the heatbreaker, so the heatsink was cooling the hotend way too much... This is one way of learning I need to be careful with the heatbreaker, I guess. I'll leave a solution here for the newbies like me that end up in a similar situation. | [
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"text": "I recently had similar problem with my Prusa i3 MK2.5. It was not able to maintain the set tempe... | 2020/10/18 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14607",
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14,616 | I have a 3D print where there are 5 holes with a diameter of 4 mm in a cup, and I would like liquid to flow through all 5 holes at once while slowly draining the cup (by slowly I mean: just take a few seconds and not drain instantly). Therefore the holes can not be very large.
When I fill water in the cup it drains fine until there is a small amount of water left, and then it just stops with a small layer of water flowing over the holes.
I'm guessing it is due to surface tension and not enough pressure from water above to push the water through...
Is there a hole design that fixes this problem? I don't know what to Google or if this is the right place to ask the question. It just takes too long to guess my way through and print every attempt at the right size or shape of hole (which I have done so far and still got nothing). | [
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"text": "What you encounter there is a combination of Adhesion, Cohesion, and Capillary Force.\n\nCohesion is what holds the w... | 2020/10/19 | [
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14,628 | There is filament residue on my glass bed that is so thin that it wont come off. I have had residue buildup for over a year now and none of it has come off. This residue appears with both the PETG and the PLA filament I have. Is there anyway to remove this residue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DmG4e.png) | [
{
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"text": "I would try a single edge razor blade at a low angle used as a scraper. If you can't feel the blade catching in the re... | 2020/10/21 | [
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14,660 | I would like to create a case or a box which has two holes for incoming and exiting water. I want the box to be opened and closed. Therefore it is good to be something like a treasure box.
Is there a way to design the lid of the box to prevent water from leaking around the areas where the box and the lid are meeting without using glue?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HYo0p.png) | [
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"text": "\"Completely\" is always relative, but for water at the pressures involved it's probably achi... | 2020/10/25 | [
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14,662 | I have an SKR PRO control board with a dead (shorted, it's burning hot) main processor. I ordered a new board, it was my mistake.
The voltage regulators work, so I ordered a replacement STM32F407 processor from STM (a free sample actually) and I'll repair the board in my free time.
How can I test all pins of the new board, so that I can ensure the board is working when I'll sell it/when I'll use it for my next project?
I think that programmatically turning on and off each pin would be enough, then I would use an oscilloscope or a LED to verify the result. The pins which have special functions (heater, fan, MOSFET in general) would be tested accordingly, but I still need the pulsating input. | [
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14,666 | Unfortunately and regrettably.
Whilst trying to install and fit an SKR Turbo 1.4 Turbo Motherboard into 3D printer body, I managed to break the SKR 1.4 Turbo Motherboard SD-card reader. The card reader is not flush and protrudes from the board. It peeled the reader from the PCB.
I attempted to fix it without success. I have since removed it from the controller board (the original SD-Card Reader PCB pads are not intact so connecting a new SD-Card Reader in place is not possible)
**Have I bricked my brand new controller board?**
Please can anyone suggest (If possible):
1. Is there a way that this could be rectified in respect to uploading/flashing the Marlin 2 firmware to the SKR 1.4 Turbo
without the original SD-Card Reader Module?
*I am under the impression I may be able to use a programmer of some description to upload the firmware?*
2. Installation of a new SD-Card Reader that could be used instead of the built in default SD-Card Reader?
*I think I would be required to first modify Marlin and then flash the motherboard firmware? Then perhaps be able to connect another SD-Card reader to the motherboard via SPI or alternative e.g wires to the respective pins on the reverse of the board?*
Could somebody kindly point me in the right direction?
I would appreciate some guidance if this indeed possible? | [
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14,691 | I'm trying to build a DIY 3D printer for myself. I've been exploring many different styles of printers and found this type of printer that has a fixed bed that stays fixed in one place and the whole gantry moves which includes all axes.
* Why is this so rare?
* Are there flaws in this design?
* Will print quality be affected by using this approach?
Check out this video for reference and skip to 10:50: | [
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"text": "> \n> Why is this so rare?\n> \n> \n> \n\nSuch kind of printers usually harder to assembles, calibrate, and... | 2020/10/29 | [
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14,703 | I am attempting to make my Ender 3 Pro print significantly faster than it is intended it I fear.
I hear a clicking noise coming from the extruder above 130 mm/s in Cura when it is going in long straight lines (I think my acceleration settings prevent it on shorter lines). I have seen this before when the bed is too close to the nozzle but I have auto bed leveling now and it is happening on all layers.
I have a standard extruder + Bowden tube setup. What can I do to make things go faster? I am less concerned about the quality of the print and more concerned about the speed.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/sof1U.jpg "Front View")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zta0M.jpg "Top View") | [
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"text": "I am still somewhat of a noob, but I have heard that your problem may be because the extruder is not g... | 2020/11/01 | [
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14,733 | I am running an Ender 3 pro with an Octoprint connected. I accidentally set the print speed too slow in Cura and the print will take very long. Is there a Marlin command I can issue to the printer to speed it up without stopping the print? | [
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"text": "yes\n===\n\nPrint speed is a setting that can be altered by just turning the click-wheel of the Ender 3. You don't n... | 2020/11/05 | [
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14,741 | I am trying to port Marlin to my Qidi Tech 1 printer which previously ran Sailfish 7.8. Everything worked fine on the old board, including the temperature sensors.
All cables except for power, LCD, and USB (for flashing) are disconnected. I am still very early on in testing and have yet to plug anything else in.
When uploading Marlin to the board, at first startup I received the following error:
```
Err: MAXTEMP: E1
PRINTER HALTED
Please Reset
```
There may be a problem with my configuration. So I commented out all of the thermal runaway protection options since the bed and extruders aren't yet connected:
```
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_HOTENDS
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_BED
//#define THERMAL_PROTECTION_CHAMBER
```
I rebuilt, flashed, reset, and the printer is still telling me that E1 is at MAXTEMP.
Why am I still getting this thermal protection message?
I cleared the EEPROM from the LCD menu in Sailfish before flashing.
This board uses an ATmega2560 and I'm using the default fuses (E:FD, H:D8, L:FF, LOCK:CF). | [
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"text": "#define THERMAL\\_PROTECTION\\_HOTENDS is for thermal runaway. When the temperature \"should\" be climbing or fa... | 2020/11/07 | [
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14,745 | Assuming a Cartesian printer with a belt and smooth rod design in which one axis moves another (i.e. the X-axis rails 'sit' on the Y-axis rails), what are the main considerations in sizing the rods and belts? For example, given a base design using 8 mm diameter rods and 6 mm belts (assume these are the limiting factors of the printer and that the frame, etc. can handle whatever you throw at it), what is roughly the maximum load, print speed and build size that this should be expected to support? If you were to increase the rod diameters to 10 mm or even 12 mm on one or both axes (assume the steppers could handle the increased load), what would the increased rigidity buy you in terms of maximum speed and/or build size and would 6 mm belts still be appropriate? Ballpark calculations or rules of thumb are fine as I understand the variables are likely not trivial and am looking more for a rough range of guidance to understand the trade-offs involved. | [
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"text": "8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calc... | 2020/11/07 | [
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14,758 | My 3D prints shift along the Y-axis on my Ender 3 3D printer. I don't know what to do. My Y-axis belt is tight, So I don't think that is the problem...
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zVtPS.png "Y-axis layer shifting") | [
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"text": "8 mm rods and 6 mm GT2 belts are generally accepted as a good tradeoff between price and performance, an exact calc... | 2020/11/09 | [
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14,762 | For my Ender 3 Pro I bought this touch sensor set [Chinese clone BLTouch set](https://tr.aliexpress.com/item/4001209045993.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.68ea4c4d3CjwfW) and changed the printer's firmware to the latest TH3D firmware (first I tried with Creality's original BLTouch firmware but after 4 hours, I never managed to set a correct Z offset, I believe there is a bug or this BLTouch clone isn't compatible with Creality firmware).
After installing TH3D, found the right Z offset, when I print items like [this one](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3476490) which stays at the center everything just perfect it sticks well, no strings, strong lines.
But if I try to print something [like this](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2973856) which is using almost all the printing table from corner to corner (I need to rotate the print 45° to fit onto the build platform), it's good on center or near to center but not sticking on the corners and first lines are sticking to nozzle (because at the far corners, the nozzle is too far or too close) and makes a mess.
I powered off the printer and adjusted the good old way (with a paper) and re-setted the Z offset accordingly but the result is the same.
According to my research some peoples advised you need to add `G29` after `G28` to your G-code to get proper solution, I added the code in Cura. When I try adding `G29`, the printer starts leveling after starting printing, but the "not sticking problem at the corners" still continues.
I tried with both magnetic bed & glass bed, but nothing helped. I was using 200 °C for the nozzle and 60nbsp;°C for the bed, printing speed is 50nbsp;mm/s with Standart quality 0.2nbsp;mm, retraction enabled, mostly using 10nbsp;% infill on my models.
I thougt maybe filament causes this problem, changed filament to another roll but not helped, I also have an Ender 3 V2 (no BLTouch) and tried same model, same filament, same settings on V2 printed perfectly.
This is how my bed looks like according to OctoPrint bed visualizer plugin;
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/u8YQH.png)
I've watched many tutorial videos and some said you need to adjust your bed with spirit level to make sure it's flat, I even did that and it is just perfectly flat.
I've installed the BLTouch clone 1 week ago and I'm struggling with this problem since then, I believe I'm missing something very obvious or making a realy simple mistake because many people use touch sensors and they are all happy with auto bed leveling. | [
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"text": "I would suggest you read [this](https://www.reddit.com/r/ender3/comments/jdd2nf/for_some_reason_my_bltouch_isnt... | 2020/11/10 | [
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14,767 | I'm looking for a methodology to easily measure/evaluate Z positioning accuracy, using equipment on hand or easily obtainable such as a high-precision digital caliper. In particular I want to be able to evaluate whether steps (actual motor steps, or some other chosen unit of increment) are uniformly the nominal step height, or whether some are larger than others, and if so whether the irregularity is reproducible. Has anyone worked out a way to attach a caliper or equivalent measurement device sufficiently rigidly to both a fixed point and a moving-in-Z point (e.g. the bed and the gantry on a typical cartesian machine) that the magnitude of individual steps can be read off? Or maybe a high precision laser range finder/interferometer solution is more appropriate, but I'm not sure about cost/availability.
I ask this in the context of recurring concerns about a common overconstained Z axis design (Ender 3 and nearly everything else with V rollers), but this question is intended to be about measuring not mitigations/fixes.
I'd also be interested in opinions on the necessary measurement precision for this measurement to be meaningful. Almost surely errors as small as 5% of the layer height will lead to some visual surface inconsistency, XY dimensional accuracy problems, and weak points for part to break at, which you'd need 10 micro resolution for 0.2 mm layers to see, but I suspect the reality is much worse for lots of printers and even 20 micron resolution or worse might aid in making serious improvements. | [
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"text": "What you ask is probably not easily doable: you want to measure distances with no more than 1 micron error!\n\n1 micr... | 2020/11/10 | [
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14,771 | I bricked my Tevo Tarantula's controller board, and I've decided to just replace it rather than unbrick it because they are relatively cheap. I recently bought a new MKS GEN L v1.0 board, but I've been unable to flash new firmware onto it. Every time I go to upload the firmware, I get an error just as it begins to upload, saying:
```
"failed to send command to serial port does not exist or is not connected"
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: ser_send(): write error: sorry no info avail
avrdude: stk500_send(): failed to send command to serial port
avrdude: ser_recv(): read error: The handle is invalid.
```
avrdude: stk500v2\_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
```
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
```
Any ideas of what the issue could be? I've tried both the USB ports on my computer and using a USB 2.0 hub (I believe my computer ports are both USB 3.0). I've also made sure that I had the correct port selected in Marlin (1.1.8.13).
I also think that its worth mentioning that my bricked board and new board seem to appear differently in the device manager
Bricked:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ex7ZK.png)
While my new board appears as this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TWYoP.png)
The new board also seems to "cut-out" when I first connect it to my computer as well. In the device manager, my computer will indicate that an unknown device is connected, then it will quickly disconnect and disappear, only to reconnect and reappear as pictured above.
Do you guys think there is a hardware issue with the motherboard? Thanks for your help, this is giving me quite the headache! | [
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14,783 | What is the best technique to improve removing PETG from the print bed?
PETG is known for sticking well to the bed; so well that it does not need a heated bed. If it weren’t for printing other materials, I would try printing directly on the glass bed instead of a build surface. However, the build surface may help protect the glass from excessive force.
To reduce how strong the PETG sticks to the build surface I’ve reduced the bed temperature to 35 °C. It is easier to remove the skirt and brim by heating the bed up to 90 °C, so that the PETG is soft. However, if one tries to remove the printed object at 90 °C, the printed object is like to distort and ruin.
I did sharpen the putty knife on the top side only. This helps, but it still takes excessive time to remove the print job and clear the bed. The excessive force on the bed from the putty knife seems to increase the need to level the bed. It also seems to affect the flatness of the build surface.
I’m looking for techniques to make it easier and less time consuming to remove the PETG print from the bed.
P.S. Additions after input from answers.
1. Added keeping the initial Z-height high enough to keep adhesion to the bed from being too high. This resolved the adhesion to the bed issue, but seemed to make adhesion between layers worse.
2. Set hot end to 230°C for first layer, then increased hot end temperature to 250°C for better adhesion between layers. | [
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14,797 | I am trying to print something that might take 15 hours. I don't want to risk my printer so if I print for 15 hours, what is the worst that can happen? So far, I haven't printed anything for more than 5 hours. | [
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14,803 | I had a new Extruder tip on my Ender 3 3D printer. the tip looked like the left tip in the below image. After I have been using it for about 5 months, the tip got dull/flat, like the tip on the right in the below image.
The only filament I have used is a spool of PLA (from hatchbox) and a spool of PETG (from sain-smart)
About the Filament
------------------
From the time that I replaced the tip, to now, i have only used my 1 spool of [PLA filament](https://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/com/B00J0ECR5I).
I don't believe it has any carbon-fiber in it, the only other things I can think of, are that the filament has a tough time sticking to the bed, so I have to print pretty close to the bed.
**Image of my 3D prints using my PLA filament**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ntcad.jpg)
**Image of my PLA filament**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/O3PGS.jpg)
---
I don't 3D print a terribly large amount, Is it normal to have to be replacing the pen this often?
How do I prevent my extruder tip from getting dull so soon? Is there a way to prevent the pen tip from getting dull at all?
**Actual Images:** (Sorry for all the edits, I’m trying to add the images on my phone and it’s not working)
 | [
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14,811 | I want to make a G-code script for Cura to clean the nozzle every Xth layer or every one minute?
With Cura there is only start and end G-code, so there is no "layer change" G-code like another slicer (e.g. Ideamaker).
Where should I write the code?
How can I define the Layer number? | [
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"text": "There are extensions for Cura that can do almost what you want to do for you (with respect to the layer or height).\... | 2020/11/15 | [
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14,846 | There are lot of advices on the web how to paint the 3D printed objects, but generally they are advices for manual painting and this required special skills, especially if the object is small. My guess is that maybe 3D printer can lay the color layers as well? I am especially interested in the layering of enamel paints (which can be transparent and which can required high temperature heating afterwards). Medieval art has fine examples how detailed enamel art was created on the metal. Maybe something like this can be achieved with 3D printers as well?
If 3D priner with the paint-printing capability is not available generally then what are the prospects when such printer can be available? Maybe there are some early, experimental efforts to create such printer and maybe test devices are available? | [
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"text": "Painting Prints\n---------------\n\nYes, you can paint your models with [enamel paints](https://en.wikipedia.org/wik... | 2020/11/20 | [
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14,849 | I have observed some occasional delamination in horizontal layers of my resin prints — see two examples:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/DxGPD.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/BZEoF.png)
What is the cause, and how can this be minimized? | [
{
"answer_id": 14947,
"author": "Jeff",
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"text": "With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is ju... | 2020/11/20 | [
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14,860 | I do not have a clear understanding of what causes resin prints to become brittle. Firstly, it appears excessive cold (in the 40s or even 30s, I am in New England) may be a factor. What else can cause brittleness in resin prints? Is there a difference between resin types? | [
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"answer_id": 14947,
"author": "Jeff",
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"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/19914",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "With the information provided my thought is that your layers are underexposed for their thickness. Each layer is ju... | 2020/11/22 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14860",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/2493/"
] |
14,874 | The plastic glide rail on which my refrigerator vegetable drawer (bin) traveled recently broke.
The rail was part of a large plastic shelf, which is no longer available for purchase.
I'm thinking about 3D printing a new glide rail and attaching it (somehow) to the existing shelf.
Can 3D printing be used for this task to make the repair any easier or more successful to complete than simply cutting a piece of plastic and (again, somehow) affixing it to the shelf?
Note that the glide rail needs to be somehow attached to the shelf at a 90 degree angle. I keep using the word "somehow" because I haven't figured out how to make that magic happen yet. | [
{
"answer_id": 14890,
"author": "Frog",
"author_id": 25415,
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"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "This is one of those tricky problems where the form of the repair and the materials that you need have to go hand i... | 2020/11/24 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14874",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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14,877 | I have a number of fairly large printed pieces. The parts, when assembled, form a very large sword. (The model is this: <https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4178060>, and is not mine.) It is about 7' from tip to pommel, and individual pieces are fairly large. The pieces are already printed, so advice to modify the model geometry to add reinforcements at this point is moot.
I have printed the pieces in PLA. I'm not asking for glue recommendations, necessarily, but rather something that could help with adhesion in addition to the glue. I'm concerned that after gluing them together, they won't support their own weight very well. I'm not worried about swinging it, just holding it and hanging it on a wall.
If I was very clever, I would have modified the files to add a through-hole that I would've put a pipe through or something, but I didn't think that far ahead. I could drill holes in the printed pieces, but I don't have a good way to make sure they line up.
So, what is the best way to add some kind of support to help keep the parts from falling apart? Is there some trick I could use to figure out how to line up drill holes? | [
{
"answer_id": 14878,
"author": "Perry Webb",
"author_id": 15075,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/15075",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "**Previous answer assuming not yet printed**:\n\nIf you want to drill holes, print smaller guide holes to gui... | 2020/11/25 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14877",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/7384/"
] |
14,892 | I'm trying to subtract a polyhedron from a cube, but it is not working (the cube remains solid). However, I can see the cut-out poly in preview mode (but not after a full render).
**Preview** -- poly cutout shows on the top (and bottom).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zk1Z5.png)
**Rendered** -- poly cutout not visible.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cofDh.png)
**Poly Exploded** -- pulled the poly to the right to show its shape.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VILrM.png)
**Code**
```
size = 30;
wall = 3;
wall_x2 = wall * 2;
nubGap = .125;
nubHeight = 8;
nubOffset = wall + nubGap;
xCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
yCutoutSize = size - wall_x2;
cutoutLowerY = nubHeight + nubGap;
cutoutUpperOffset = nubOffset + wall;
difference() {
cube([size, size, size]);
translate([wall, wall, 0]) {
polyhedron(
points = [
[0, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, 0, -10],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, yCutoutSize, -10],
[0, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, 0, cutoutLowerY],
[xCutoutSize, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[0, yCutoutSize, cutoutLowerY],
[cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[xCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size],
[cutoutUpperOffset, yCutoutSize - cutoutUpperOffset, size]
],
faces = [
[0, 1, 2], [2, 3, 0], // bottom
[0, 1, 4], [1, 4, 5], // side A
[1, 2, 5], [2, 5, 6], // side B
[2, 3, 6], [3, 6, 7], // side C
[3, 0, 7], [0, 7, 4], // side D
[4, 5, 8], [5, 8, 9], // slope A
[5, 6, 9], [6, 9, 10], // slope B
[6, 7, 10], [7, 10, 11], // slope C
[7, 4, 11], [4, 11, 8], // slope D
[8, 9, 10], [10, 11, 8] // top
]
);
};
};
``` | [
{
"answer_id": 14893,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 2,
"selected": false,
"text": "If the polyhedron surface and top surface of the cube are exactly coplanar, which they seem ... | 2020/11/28 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14892",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25482/"
] |
14,898 | (Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board and Touchscreen, BlTouch)
Hello everybody,
I want to print something for my family but the hotend gets clogged every time in the same part of the print. I tried:
* Different Nozzles
* Different Filaments
* I cleaned every Part
* The E-Steps are set right
* The retraction Setting didn't make a difference
* The Extruder Position is perfect
* I tried different speeds
* Everything else you find on Google with a clogged hot end.
The most odd thing about this is that the problem occurs at the same place every time.
On Flat surfaces are some anomalies, that wasn't there when I had the normal clogged nozzle problems (from: retraction settings, dirty Printer, e-steps false). I think it has something to do with the anomalies.
Another thing I don't get behind are missing layers after the layer change,
even when I don't use retraction at all.
In The Picture from the side you see the Support with the Layer change problem.
After around about Layer 40 there is one Layer missing and the next Layers are not connected anymore.
From the top you see the Surface anomaly I don't know how to describe.
It would be helpful to know what I did wrong. I am sure I did Everything against a clogged Nozzel but I can be Wrong so tips in this direction are Helpful too.
I am quite new to 3D Printing(2 Months) I had the usual clogged Nozzel Problem Solved and It Worked Perfectly. I Tried to Fix It with the same Solutions and Nothing Helped, so I think it is a different problem.
Sry for my bad English I am from Germany.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mA9br.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/oKgpD.jpg)
I have an Ender 3 Pro with Bigtreetech Board, Touchscreen and BlTouch which I use together with [insert slicer here]. I print in [PLA/ABS/PETG/Whatever Material] at [Extruder temperature] °C. The print bed is set to [Bed Temperature] °C. I use a print cooling fan at [whatever] %. The layer height I set to 0.[x] mm, the line width [line width/extrusion width] from the 0.[x] mm nozzle. The Printing Speed is set to [x] mm/s for walls and [x] mm/s for infill. My retraction is [off / [X] mm at [x] mm/s]. | [
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"selected": false,
"text": "I'm an Ender 3 Pro user and I've been through almost every problem this machine has.\n\n1. If you are on origin... | 2020/11/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14898",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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14,900 | Given a .SCAD file which contains some modules, how can I execute one of those modules from the command line?
**example.scad**
```
module One() { ... }
module Two() { ... }
```
**render.sh**
```
openscad -q -o one.stl --module One example.scad
```
Note that there is no `--module` option, but that is what I'm attempting to do. The workaround would be to make another .SCAD file e.g. `one.scad` which includes `example.scad`, and simply calls `One();` within and render that file from the shell file. But this is not ideal. | [
{
"answer_id": 14903,
"author": "R.. GitHub STOP HELPING ICE",
"author_id": 11157,
"author_profile": "https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/11157",
"pm_score": 1,
"selected": false,
"text": "OpenSCAD doesn't have such an option on the command line, but the general idiom I believe yo... | 2020/11/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/14900",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/users/25482/"
] |
14,902 | So I got the SKR mini E3 for my Ender 5 after hearing all the positive reviews.
When it arrives I plug everything in, make sure it's secure and test the axis... they all worked correctly.
I then tested auto home... everything worked.
I then tested the heating... everything worked again.
Finally, I go to do a test print-- it heats up and then homes. When it is finished heating, the hot end assembly starts moving slowly until it goes into the corner and contacts the side of the printer. Obviously, I turned it off right away.
Currently, I am uncertain whether it is a firmware issue, a board issue, or something else? If anyone could please help me solve this, that would be greatly appreciated! | [
{
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"author_id": 25421,
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"pm_score": -1,
"selected": false,
"text": "So I found an answer on Reddit when I asked the same question: It actually had to do with the homing -- basic... | 2020/11/29 | [
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"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com",
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