qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
599 | I am considering buying a 3D printer for work (scientific research). On paper, the Makerbot 5th generation seems to be the best option, because the price is right for my budget, and also because I'm generally pretty busy, so I want something that's as close to "plug and play" as reasonably possible. This will be my first 3D printer and I have no prior experience with the technology.
However, any search for "Makerbot" brings up a raft of negative reviews from around the time of the 5th generation's first release, which mostly focus on issues with the smart extruder constantly failing and needing to be replaced under warranty. Many of these reviews point out that this may be an initial "teething" issue which might be fixed in later versions of the model, but now, one year later, I'm unable to find any information about whether this was indeed the case.
So: are the initial issues with the Makerbot 5th generation's smart extruder generally considered resolved, or is it an underlying flaw of the model that won't be fixed until the next generation?
I imagine that people might want to suggest alternative models in the same price range. That would be welcome, but I have an extra constraint, which is that I can only buy models that are available in Japan without a long delivery time - this probably limits my options quite a bit. | [
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"text": "I got (with no prior experience) a 5th generation model soon after its release and indeed had painful troubles with the ... | 2016/02/18 | [
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612 | I have a Printrbot Simple Metal. The extruder is getting clogged all the time. I went through the process demonstrated [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_qP5AsnQNQ) multiple times already. Heatting the extruder and pushing different tools all the way through to make sure it is completely clear.
Every time I get a clear flow of PLA, and after a few minutes the extruder motor starts clicking again. At that point, it is even hard to push in the filament by hand.
I replaced the tip already, but this didn't make any difference. I also tried few different filaments, all of them worked perfectly before.
It feels like stopping the flow even for about 30 seconds would cause it to jam. | [
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"answer_id": 613,
"author": "tbm0115",
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"text": "I'm not sure if this is particularly the issue for you right now, but I have encountered the tension on my drive gear be... | 2016/02/20 | [
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628 | One way to give PLA prints a smooth finish is treatment with chloroform vapours (or other solvents, as mentioned in [this](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/36/674) answer). This method is even featured on [Ultimaker website](https://ultimaker.com/en/tips-tricks/17897-vapor-treating). I would like to try it on some of my prints.
What are the practical concerns I should be aware of using chloroform vapours? I am looking for advice concerning vaporisation temperature, time of exposition that makes for a nice finish, and any other experiences.
**Caution!**
[Chloroform](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chloroform) is a moderately toxic chemical! I only approach this method as I have an access to a well-equipped chemical laboratory with a [fume hood](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fume_hood).
**Disclamer:**
The question is not about the safety issues using chloroform vapours. It is about how obtain the best post-processing results with least trial-and-error. | [
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"text": "[This Reddit post](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/25ej7d/does_anyone_have_experience_with_pla_thf_vapor/) s... | 2016/02/23 | [
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631 | On a Cartesian printer movements are really simple. If we assume the printer has 100 steps/mm on each axis, then a move of 10mm on a axis is just 1000 Steps on that axis.
Movements that are not aligned with one axis are also simple. Moving from x,y = 0,0 to 10,10 would be 1000 steps on x and y.
On deltas even for simple moves more than one motor has to move. And just calculating the amount of steps on each axis needed to reach the destination probably gives a curved move.
So what is the algorithm to calculate the steps for a given move for a delta printer? | [
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"answer_id": 632,
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"text": "I am describing how this is done in the Marlin firmware.\n\nThe first step is to split a linear movement from... | 2016/02/23 | [
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636 | Is there a definitive scalable 3D printer?
I've seen examples of Chinese companies printing entire houses, and I'm curious as to printers / filaments that are intended (or at least able) be scaled up for (very) large print jobs.
Since most hobby printers can take hundreds of hours for something that can still be held in our hands, so I'm curious if there are any designs for printers that are meant to extrude material efficiently with a easily scalable printing area.
Open sourced / free is preferable; though I'm interested in **any** designs that exist, commercial included. | [
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"text": "If I understand your question correctly, it sounds like you're looking somewhere within the [RepRap](http://reprap.org/)... | 2016/02/24 | [
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637 | Our library system just put a 3D printer in one of the branches. I have used SketchUp on the library computers for a number of years just to do artsy things. Suddenly, I have the opportunity to actually print something. (I'm really not sure why the libraries have SketchUp installed. But, I have enjoyed using it.)
There is a plug-in available for SketchUp so that it can export STL files. But, the security on the library computers will not allow me to put a file into the SketchUp plug-ins folder. And, the tech guy at the library doesn't think that the IT guys at the library will update all the copies of SketchUp at all the branches just so someone could do 3D printing.
After doing some searching on this website, I found out that I could export a COLLADA / dae file from SketchUp. I would then import that dae file into Bjoyder (The portable version on my flash drive). I could then export it as an STL file.
The process appeared to work. I could see my test object in Bjoyder.
I gave the STL file to the branch manager who tried to open it in the Makerbot software so that it could be sent to the printer. But, it gave him a message about the file not being recognized.
I am not familiar with all the details in the importing and exporting processes that are going on. Is there someone out there that can give me some help?
One problem is that, I am using the library computers. I cannot alter them. I can use what portable versions of software are out there, like Bjoyder. | [
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"text": "Here is what I suggest you try. If you have a file that you can view/edit in blender I would export it as both STL... | 2016/02/24 | [
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642 | When you cut or break a PLA model (for example to remove support) it often leaves an ugly while mark where the removed piece was connected.
Sanding also tend to leave dull white scratches on the sanded surface.
What can I do to restore the white areas to the original filament color? | [
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"answer_id": 643,
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"text": "A quick blast from a heat gun will very slightly reflow the surface texture and eliminate white marks. \n\nHoweve... | 2016/02/24 | [
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645 | Cura does not seem let the full print area to be used. My printer is a [Lulzbot Mini](https://www.lulzbot.com/store/printers/lulzbot-mini). The design illustrated below can be found [here](https://www.tinkercad.com/things/hBE6Aj2EJMo-skyrail-marble-coster-banked-curve-beta).
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pf5AP.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iqvqo.png) | [
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"text": "Cura is likely factoring in your skirt. Change the skirt lines to 0 and you might be able to print (`Expert` -> `Switch t... | 2016/02/25 | [
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652 | I'm having trouble getting my MendelMax 2's heatbed *not* to heat up when I want to print without it. I don't get how multiple sources of control relate to each other (same with extrusion temperatures, actually):
* Slic3r (1.2.9) has settings under Filament Settings / Filament / Bed, for First layer and Other layers (and groups of settings can be saved).
* The pronterface GUI (Printrun-Mac-10Mar2014) has an "Options" panel where you can set "Bed temperature" (actually, two settings, one for PLA and one for ABS -- though I doubt the software can test which filament is loaded!)
* The pronterface GUI also has a menu/fill-in labelled "Bed", which works fine to adjust the bed when nothing is printing. The menu there lets you pick from a manually-entered value, "0 (off)", and (apparently) the settings for PLA and ABS from the options panel.
* Marlin's Configuration.h has settings for bed minimum and maximum temps (the non-zero minimum seems to be to prevent running the bed when the thermistor isn't working, to avoid unlimited overheating).
I recently tried to print some PLA with no bed heat (using blue tape on the glass build plate). I sliced the model with bed heat off in Slic3r; changed the PLA bed temps in the printerface options panel to 0; and picked the PLA setting in the GUI main screen (and also tried setting "0 (off)" manually.
When I started to print the object, the bed turned on and stayed on, maintaining 60C.
I thought of just unplugging the heatbed, but then I expect the print would never start, since it would try to heat up the bed and never succeed.
So how does the decision about which temperature setting to use, *really* get made? I have the same question about extruder temps, speeds, accelerations, and other things, too -- whose settings are really in charge? | [
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"text": "3D printer get the temperature settings from g-code file. The firmware settings for min and max temperature are just safegua... | 2016/02/25 | [
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655 | In Cura, when you enable "Print support structure", is there a way to see what it will look like? | [
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"text": "Select the View Modes Button in the upper right hand corner, and select Layers.\n\n[![Cura](https://i.stack.imgur.co... | 2016/02/25 | [
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667 | We have a Makerbot Replicator 2X at our school. I have a class in the computer lab and one of our focuses is using the printer. Currently, it is not printing properly. We are using PLA at 210 degrees Celcius. The built plate is not heated (using Build Tak). This has worked very well in the past. The problem is that when the extruder goes to lay down plastic, the filament is too hot and curls up in a clump around the extruder. This is characteristic of when we first tried PLA at a higher temperature. I think that our heat sensor is not working properly. Does anyone know how we can fix this problem? Is there a way to calibrate the sensor is should we install a new one? | [
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"text": "The temperature is fine.\n\nIn my experience the filament curls up only when the extruder is extruding way up, far ... | 2016/03/01 | [
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670 | I'm building my own 3D printer (custom design, made by me and cut using a water cutting machine) but I have always had problems with the hotend clogging.
I have had four hotends:
* a J-Head;
* a full metal;
* a full metal made by me and;
* my current hotend which is just a block of aluminium with a plaster cold-end 100% homemade with no precision at all.
Believe it or not, this hotend is the only one that has finished a whole print (about 40 minutes), all of the others, with or without fans, haven't managed to finish one!
Well... this hotend has a 1.5mm hole so I guess that that's why it can print.
The problem with all of the others was that the 1.75mm PLA that I'm using clogged the hotend after two minutes.
Now I would like to buy a new, more precise, hotend. I'm using a Bowden extruder, can you suggest a good hotend?
This is my printer:
[](https://s10.postimg.org/mhk71hq0p/IMG_20160302_204645713.jpg)
[](https://s23.postimg.org/c7u1n63nf/IMG_20160302_204636873.jpg) | [
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"text": "To make the [suggestion of Martin Carney](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/670/which-hotend-does-not-clog-... | 2016/03/01 | [
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683 | I have seen some lasers attached to the RepRap platform for cutting but most seem to be cutting paper, balsa wood, or merely etching. If I were wanting to build a platform for cutting wood, similar to the wood framed or boxed 3D printers on the market, what power laser would I need for that? I assume that a lower powered laser would have to travel slower but going too slow would add the possibility of catching the wood on fire (not good). | [
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"text": "Please do not go down this road. First, not all lasers are equally absorbed by the material and the energy converted to ... | 2016/03/03 | [
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686 | Using an FDM printer and PLA or ABS, without adding support material. What modifications can I make to improve how steep an overhang my printer can print before it starts having problems?
The obvious first answer is to add a cooling fan, increasing the airflow over the freshly-extruded material ensuring it solidifies. What other things can improve it?
Does lowing the temperature help? Raising it?
Does speeding up or slowing down the print head help?
Does increasing/decreasing the extrusion diameter, or layer height help? | [
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"text": "There's an answer [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/519/how-to-improve-face-that-are-printed-on-supp... | 2016/03/04 | [
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696 | I would like to secure my hotend thermistor in a more reliable way (now it is just thermistor plugged in the hotend :D). I want to have a stainless steel tip for it to fix it inside hotend with a screw (The same approach as used for the heating cartridge). I have thermistors, but I cannot find any tips to buy separately.
Maybe you have some links for this kind of stainless-steel tips? Or some keywords I can use to search them? | [
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"text": "There's an answer [here](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/519/how-to-improve-face-that-are-printed-on-supp... | 2016/03/07 | [
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703 | In a design that I need to prototype, I have a coaxial, rotational joint between 2 cylinders connected to another coaxial rotational joint between 2 cylinders by a hinge. I have attached the individual part files as well as their assembly where you can use your mouse cursor to check how they move.
[Click here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files](https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8GACx5kXowlcEwxOWI4REV6OFk&usp=sharing "Click here for the SolidWorks parts and assembly files")
Initially when I 3d printed them by splitting them in half, the outer tube did not close, even after filing the inner tube sufficiently.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OjlVJ.jpg)
Could you tell me an alternative method to get this complicated joint working? I need to 3D print them. I plan to use ABS for the 3D printing.
Thanks for your patience :)
EDIT:
Lubrication: I plan to use grease to lubricate the sliding surfaces.
Clearances:
I printed them without clearances initially (this is my first ever 3D print and I wanted to know how accurate it would be). I then used Dremel and filing tools to file away about 0.5 mm of both the surfaces. It should have been enough for mating the parts. The gap between the edges of the outer shell while trying to close it around is 3-4 mm which doesn't suggest 3D printing inaccuracy. I suspect that the outer tube isn't circular enough in cross section. It meets the inner tube at the the two ends of the semicircle and not inside its belly (you can see it in the picture). I have already tried the obvious, which is removing material from the surfaces wherever the parts touch. The model seems to be too warped for any success. The parts were printed upwards from the bottom, so it is not the warping due to gravity. | [
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709 | One of the local libraries has a new small Makerbot 3D printer. I have been submitting Sketchup files converted to STL files for printing.
The tech guy who runs the printer for patrons is having trouble getting a project of mine to come out to be the right size. I need this item go be 2 inches wide. The tech guy sizes the item on the screen to 2 inches. I watched him do it. But, the item is printed with a base of 2 inches, and the item itself comes out smaller.
Does anyone have suggestions about this? I can get more info if someone can give me the right questions to ask. The tech is open to taking suggestions. He wants to get the printer running smoothly for patrons.
I submitted a file with my own base with supports made in Sketchup. But, the tech guy said he needs to set the printer to create it's own base and supports.
Additional info:
When I printed it by letting Makerbot create the base and supports, it came out to be 1 3/4" as shown here:
<https://flic.kr/p/EashnD>
Printer: Makerbot Replicator with Smart Extruder (not Plus).
(I am now at the library with the technician.)
Here is a screenshot of what I am trying to print. It is a replacement clip for a messenger bag. So, it has to be 2 inches across.
<https://flic.kr/p/EtdM6s>
Here is the printer:
<https://flic.kr/p/E5F1M6>
I used a website to convert the DAE file exported from Sketchup to an STL file. It was GreenToken.com.
If I open the object's STL file in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide. And, if I open the file in one of the 3D printer websites in Tinkercad, the object appears two inches wide (in cm).
The security on the library's computers do not allow me to apply plug-ins to Sketchup. The library's Tech staff is going to eventually put the plug-in in there.
If it is resized to 2 inches wide in the MakerBot software to be sent to the printer, why is it printing the generated base 2 inches wide and not the object? Are there some settings the tech guy in the library is missing in this set up window?
Additional notes:
The library now has the latest version of SketchUp on Macs. They are working on installing the STL plugin. (Security issues)
My process for producing an STL file to print is now this:
1. I create something in SU and export it as a DAE file.
2. I have found that meshconverter.com produces better STL files than greentoken.
3. I then upload/fix the STL file at the netFabb website.
4. I then import the STL file into TinkerCad to view it. If there are problems in the file, I can see them. And, I run it through netFabb again. I can also modify the file in TinkerCad. It is no where near as sophisticated as SketchUp. But, it doesn't claim to be.
I have found that there is a way to export the STL file to 3D printer hubs through TinkerCad. You can see the prices, the material available and the location of the company/person doing the printing. You can contact the printer ahead of time and they can look at your file to give you advice.
**Update**
I just wanted to add that the netFabb website does not export STL files after it fixes them. It now gives you a 3MF file format when you upload an STL file. I am not sure why this happens. But, this has put a big wrench in my process. I can no longer fix SketchUp STL files with netFabb. When I bring them into TinkerCad, I see errors in the object. It seems like there are issues with complex curves. | [
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"text": "It appears that you have scaled the object after the raft and supports were added. As you can see in your photo of t... | 2016/03/08 | [
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711 | What is the proper way to give printer settings to CuraEngine? Is it possible to put all these settings into a file (like Json formatted)?
```
CuraEngine.exe -v -o "c:\3d\test.gcode" "c:\3d\test.stl"
``` | [
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"text": "I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, [Cura... | 2016/03/08 | [
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714 | Most 3 mm (mostly are actually 2.85 mm) filament extruders have some kind of gear reduction. Many 1.75 mm extruders are direct-drive / ungeared but some do use gears. What kind of reduction ratios are suitable or optimal? | [
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"text": "I'm not sure if it's possible, but on github is code for setting CuraEngine up. Maybe you'll find this link, [Cura... | 2016/03/08 | [
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715 | I had a friend request that I print out the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan as a gift for her PhD adviser. I went to NOAA and the site had a few files for the Bathymetry of Lake Michigan.
Files and types are located here: <http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/greatlakes/michigan.html>
I am trying to convert this into an STL file to print in my 3D printer however I am having no luck in converting this into a mesh I can use. I have tried multiple approaches with the different files that are listed but cannot seem to get it to properly convert to a mesh. I have tried the following so far:
-Import an .xyz file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it looks like nothing imported and I can't navigate around in the file
-Import an ASC file into MeshLab to convert it to an STL. After I import it, I get no errors but the output is a long, thin mesh that looks nothing like lake Michigan
-Just for a test, I imported the .xyz file into Autodesk ReCap just to see what would happen. I noticed that the points were in a long thin area similar to the ASC import but as I browsed around I noticed that the each layer of dots was the actual Bathymetry contours.
I have tried multiple approaches and software beyond these but can't seem to get the files to convert into a printable mesh that I can manipulate to send to my 3D printer. | [
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722 | I have recently bought a spool of eSun PETG. So far I really like the filament. My only complaint is, I get lumps of charred filament deposited on my object. The slicer I used is Craft Ware and I have played with the Far Travel -> Elevation settings. I have noticed that this helps but then I have little to no adhesion to the print surface and my supports do not stick to the raft. Does any one know how to mitigated PETG from collecting on the extruder? | [
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729 | I have a z-axis which follows schematically the same principle as the makerbot one's (threaded rod and two leading rods with linear ball bearings carrying a level). It is from an old experimental lab doing physics or chemistry.
The axis move gorgeously about 5 cm, but then it get's stuck on either sides of this way. Both driving threaded rod and the leading rods seem perfectly fine and should be able to allow for further movement. This is as far as I can see by eye.
Where should I look to find further issues and how could I improve the performance? Do I need to take the construction apart? | [
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732 | Some RepRap models use only a single motor for the Z axis, others use two.
For example, there is the [3drag](http://reprap.org/wiki/3drag) that has only one motor and a smooth rod on the other side. There are modifications that add a threaded rod on the other side that is connected to the motor axis with a belt - which seems to be a really good solution.
Other printers, like the [Prosi i3](http://reprap.org/wiki/Prosi_i3) or the Mendel90 have two Z motors. And after playing around with a two motor model, I find it pretty annoying when they get out of sync and I need to calibrate the axis and the print bed again. So two motors seem more like an disadvantage to me.
Could someone please shed some light on why most RepRaps have two Z motors (nowadays)? | [
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740 | What software is best for the basest of n00bs when it comes to 3D parts creation?
I have a heavy math background and know how to create explicit functions of volume, surface area, center of mass, etc. Ideally, I'd like a program that uses those strengths but I realize that most n00bs have a crippling math phobia so I'm not holding my breath.
I tried freeCAD once and made some headway but the next time I turned my computer on, it refused to open. It was just a weakling netbook that I don't even have in my possession anymore but the computer I'm currently using is rather slow and doesn't seem to have much memory left either, so I still need something lightweight.
tl;dr: Seeking a free, lightweight program to create .stl files that is good for n00bs that are **not** afraid of math. | [
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743 | I'm building a Kossel Mini, and I'm stuck on the extruder motor holder.
My Kossel came without instructions, I was given a set of instructions by a friend (the "Kossel Build Guide" by Blomker industries). I also found some instructions on the net. However, my components are different from those in the build guides.
The question is how these components fit together.
I'm pretty certain the stepper motor should be connected to the big black components (labeled (1) and (4) in the picture). The 4 holes in these components correspond to openings in the stepper motor; and the stepper motors for the vertical carriages, were connected in a similar way to their respective holders.
The round thing, second from the left on the bottom, (labeled (2) in the picture) presumably goes on the axis of the stepper motor. Once again, a similar procedure was needed for the motors that will move the vertical carriages.
The screws on the right, labeled (3), are 1 cm long and 3 mm wide.
The other screws are 2 cm long and 3 mm wide.
The stepper motor is a Wantai Stepper Motor Model 42BYGHW811 .
I have e-mailed the company where I bought my kit and am awaiting their answer. Meanwhile I'm hoping to get some advice here.
Apparently the usual stepper motor for a Kossel Mini is Nema 17. Searching on "42BYGHW811" I mostly find datasheets. Using "Nema 17 mount" or "Nema 17 mounting screws" as search terms, I find a lot of images with a component like (1). But nothing on how this and the other components should be put together for the motor holder for an extruder for the Kossel Mini.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l98L8.jpg "Parts of the extruder") | [
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746 | I have some design diagrams only on paper. Scanning them to bitmaps is easy, but I've had no luck getting useful vectors out of them. I've tried vectorizers in programs like gimp, and a few online services. Generally, I end up with enormous numbers of spurious vectors (from dust, dotted lines, text on the diagram, slightly variations in scanning contrast, etc).
What tools and/or techniques can I use to get a more useful vector result, that I can then modify in a normal CAD tool without spending absurd amounts of time cleaning it all up first? | [
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752 | I'm building a 3D printer and I've been looking around for materials suitable to make the frame.
I have occasional access to a laser cutter which I could use to manufacture a ply box-type (UltiMaker) enclosure, but I like the ease of adjustment provided by the T-slot beam kits.
I don't have any metal-cutting machine tools. Can aluminium beam be cut by hand with a hacksaw to a good degree of accuracy? How does one finish the cut end? | [
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762 | PLA is flammable, but a good case can protect the main board from dirt.
Is it worthwhile to protect a circuit board with a 3d printed case? | [
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768 | Backstory
---------
I've had issues in the past with my drive gear "eating" my filament. It seemed that the filament quit extruding for one reason or another and the drive gear would slowly eat away at the side of the filament.
I eventually assumed it was the plastic filament guides causing unnecessary tension that the drive gear couldn't compete with, ultimately keeping the filament from moving forward. Thusly, allowing the drive gear to continue "trying".
My solution was to hang my spools above the machine to avoid using the filament guides feeding from the back of the machine up through the top.
Question
--------
Can the plastic filament guides really cause that much drag? What other variables can I expect to look out for?
*Machine:* **MakerBot Replicator Dual (1st Generation)** | [
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771 | As my first project, I'm trying to design a holder for glass vials, for a scientific application. The photo below shows the latest design iteration, and also shows the problem with it:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7vqSam.jpg)
As you can see, one of the clips that's meant to hold the vial in place has broken off. This happened after inserting the vial once or twice.
I think I understand the reason for this. It's because I'm printing in the orientation shown below, in order to avoid the need for supports. (This will be more important later, when I scale it up to an array of many holders.) This means that it's relying on the strength in the z dimension, which is much weaker than in the other two directions, because it relies on the cohesion between the layers.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aOyctm.jpg)
My question is whether I can do anything about this by changing the design of the clips, without abandoning my hope of support-free printing. I don't care at all what the design looks like, except that as much of the vial as possible needs to be visible from the front. I'm printing in ABS.
I have tried varying the thickness of the clips. Thinner ones don't break as easily, but they are a bit floppy and aren't very good at keeping the vial vertical. The ones shown are the thickest I've tried - I'm afraid that if they're too thick they won't bend at all. (The vial is supposed to be inserted from the front rather than the top.)
**Edit** just as an update, here's what it looks like using John Biddle's suggestion, which works perfectly:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/w3qeG.png) | [
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783 | I would like to make custom insoles for my wife.
This company makes a flexible filament that will be soft to stand on:
<http://recreus.com/en/>
I do not currently own a printer.
How can I measure her feet and transfer the measurements to the printer?
(one of these comes to mind: <http://www.eggheadtoys.com/pin-art/>)
How can I measure the inside of the shoe?
What kind of printer can print with the flexible filament? | [
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786 | For my Fzazkanstuuf's printer I am at a loss with the hotend mount. I cannot drill holes of 16 (upper diameter) and 12 mm (clamping diameter, 6mm high) which i would need to mount the E3D V6 clone I have.
What I am looking for: a hotend mount plate that tightly fixes the hotend while having some holes for screws to mount it to the horizontally moving x-y drives. As I cannot print yet, it needs to be manufacturable at home. I thought of something like this:
<http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:285405>
I could get a piece of wood thin enough to fit the 6mm gap for the hotend, would not really be able to put any screws through it along the flat axis. also I would have to glue the layer with a 16mm hole on top. Not to say that I don't own a drillbit of 16mm diameter...
Are there some completely different ideas around which I didn't think of yet?
Additional info: the x-y axes are made from a scanner bed and an underneath mounted dvd drive laser positioner. Ideally, I'd want to mount the hotend directly to the DVD drive but a) there is almost no space for that, and b) I'm pretty sure I will burn the DVD drive's motor somewhere along the way, so I don't want to put too much work in the individual DVD drive. | [
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789 | If you already have a 3D printer, would you say that you have saved money on buying the printer, buying models and then printing the models, compared to buying something alike in retail?
Would you say that saving money is an argument to buy a 3D printer? | [
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"text": "Yes and No.\n===========\n\nThere are two sides of this, ***yes*** and ***no***. Why I say *yes* is because there are li... | 2016/03/18 | [
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801 | I've been curious about the various UV/Laser printers in (or coming into) market that use liquid resin. I've seen the samples of the [Pegasus Touch](https://fslaser.com/Products/View/1), [Form1](http://formlabs.com/products/materials/), and the [Carbon3D](http://carbon3d.com/) as examples. I like the specifications of the quality that machines can put out. However, in my experience with FDM printing, there almost always seems to be something not quite right about the print.
So, what are some major maintenance considerations for these types of 3D printing? Also, specifically, are supports and overhangs as much an issue in these types of printers as with FDM/FFF?
Here are some things I consider major maintenance considerations in FDM:
* Extruder Clogging
* Build platform conditions (i.e. levelness, clean, type of tape, bubbles in tape)
* Variances in material quality (i.e. diameter, purity, physical conditions)
* Mechanics of the machine (i.e. belts, rods, gear teeth, etc.)
* Build environment (i.e. ensuring steady temperature in the build environment, minimize draft)
I'm not necessarily looking for printer recommendations, more so technical insight on the technology. | [
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850 | I was in the process of printing a 16 hour print, but I must have failed to copy the G-code correctly, because the print stopped after 107 of 223 layers. Looking at the G-code, It also stops there.
However, I had the full G-code on my computer, and decided to try and resume the print from layer 108. It seemed to work, with the exception of a little excess extrusion at a single point in the beginning, but after three layers, i noticed that it wasn't extruding anymore. I am not completely positive that it isn't due to nozzle jamming, but I have a strong feeling that the problem is the G-code itself, as it does extrude some plastic just before printing starts.
Here are the first lines of my manually edited G-code. Can anyone see why I get the blob in the beginning, or why I don't get anything at all later on? Or does it look good, and my problem is probably the nozzle?
```
;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:60308
;MATERIAL:119047
;MATERIAL2:0
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER:0.400000
;NOZZLE_DIAMETER2:0.400000
;MTYPE:PLA
;Layer count: 222
;LAYER:109
G0 F9000 X208.213 Y107.948 Z16.610
;TYPE:FILL
G1 F3600 X210.390 Y105.771 E4104.65185
G0 F9000 X210.390 Y103.170
G1 F3600 X168.331 Y61.111 E4107.77457
G0 F9000 X167.074 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X120.237 Y107.949 E4111.25208
G0 F9000 X121.695 Y107.949
G1 F3600 X74.857 Y61.111 E4114.72962
G0 F9000 X73.600 Y61.111
G1 F3600 X26.763 Y107.948 E4118.20709
``` | [
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857 | I have adjusted my z axis end stop via the paper test. However when I press to home all the axis the z axis hits the print bed moves it down slightly then goes to the postion I describe. Is this how its supose to be if not what do I need to do? | [
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860 | Suppose I want to to print several copies of a large, flat object, such as a hollow frame. If I make an STL file consisting of several copies floating just above each other then my 3D printer's software happily generates supports for the upper objects to sit on, as shown below:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XbxbGm.png)
My question is, is this a crazy idea? If it will work it seems it has several advantages. I can print more copies at once than if I tried to fit them next to each other on the platform, and if one of the prints fails the ones below it will still be OK. It doesn't take that much more filament than printing them all separately.
I'll probably try it at some point just to see what happens, but it's not something I've heard of people doing before, so I'm wondering if there's a good reason why it won't work or would otherwise not be a good strategy. | [
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866 | I ordered an [OEM Power Supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) and I intend to hook up with [this rocker switch](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00511QVVK) I believe it's like the one specified in the [Power Supply Documentation](http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU) which reads:
>
> In the US, IEC320 C14 plug connections are common, but use your
> preferred standard.
>
>
>
I've also seen where this was attached in [this thingiverse project](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659).
Inside the switch I've also added an F4AL250V fuse.
Now what's confusing me is, that the [this rocker switch](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00511QVVK) on the back reads 10A 250V~ so I'm wondering if it's safe to use.
The switch will be connected to the house mains via a plug and wired just like in the [this thingiverse project](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31659), so it can be the input into my [OEM Power Supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) via the black (hot - L), white (Common - N) and Green (Ground) wires.
For the connecting wires I stripped a black PC Tower wire to get at the black, white, and ground wires inside it.
<http://reprap.org/wiki/Power_Supply#OEM_type_PSU> | [
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871 | I obtained the following wire 22 Gauge Stranded Hookup Wire from Radio Shack:
```
Type/Style: AWM/1007
Wire Gauge: 22 AWG
Insulation Thickness: AVE. 0.42 mm
Rated Voltage: 300V
Temperature Rating: 80°C / 176°F
```
>
> Use Limitation: Internal wiring of appliances; or where exposed to oil
> at a temperature not exceeding 60°C or 80°C, whichever is applicable..
> Tags may indicate the following: 600V Peak - For Electronic Use Only.
>
>
>
I'd like to be able to hook up RAMPs 1.4 to my [switching power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) with this wire. Will this work okay? | [
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880 | So I bought a prusa i3 kit from a company called folger tech off of ebay. I've built it and even printed out a few parts, but I noticed that a lot of noise seemed to be happening only while the x-axis motor was moving the extruder. Then I noticed if I put my finger lightly on the plastic part of the x-carriage I could dampen the vibrations and pretty much eliminate the noise I noticed. Then I took apart that part of the printer and examined everything and all I could notice that seemed to be loose was that nut that allows the z motor to push up the x carriage. I don't know if I got a bad nut, or a bad screw, or is it's just supposed to be this way? I thought it was kind of a weird way to build things with a screw turning a nut, because I thought that it would bind up. But now I'm wondering if that is why it was so loose fitting (to reduce friction)? So does it need to be that way? Or could I get a different nut? Or is there some better way to go about fixing this issue? Or perhaps it's not even an issue.. idk. | [
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885 | I have done the calibration for the x, y, and z axis and everything works fine there. However when I went to do the calibration for extruder things got a little weird. The original number programmed on the board for the step per mm was 98 When I did my first measurements I used 120mm as the mark on the filament then extruded 100mm then remeasured the mark it was 37.66. Then by using the new\_e\_steps = old\_e\_steps \* (100/(120-distance). I would use the new number and upload it to the printer which was 119.0187. After that I took another measurement, the new measurement was 61.27mm after marking 120mm then extruding 100mm of filament. Using the formula it came out to be 202.6540. Then the new measurement was some where around 80 some MM. It seams that the more I do the calibration the less accurate it gets. What am I doing wrong here?[Triffid Hunters Calibration](http://reprap.org/wiki/Triffid_Hunter%27s_Calibration_Guide) is the guide I have been using and this link is to the specifications to the printer [HE3D Prusa XI3](https://www.3dprintersonlinestore.com/reprap-prusa-xi3). | [
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887 | First of all I'm working with a Folger Tech Prusa i3 kit, if that makes a difference. Also I believe the Arduino is a Mega 2560.
I know somewhere in the back of my head that electrically programmable ROM like what must be on the Arduino board storing the firmware degrades a little, each time you write to it. Right now I'm trying to calibrate away another print problem, and I think I need to modify the firmware yet again, which I've already done several times. So I'm starting to worry about how many times I can do that.
Well, once I remembered the acronym "EEPROM", and after a little googling, I came across this, [Arduino - EEPROM](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/EEPROMWrite), which says that it can handle 100k cycles, so I think I'm onto the answer, but the problem is I'm not sure if a cycle is an entire file being uploaded? Wouldn't it be a single blip of data? And if so how many cycles would the average Marlin file consume?
I also found this:
>
> but I'd be very surprised if I've uploaded to it more than 2000 times
>
>
>
on [Mega2560 bricked? not detected, DFU failing](http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=58243.0), indicating that the answer might be as low as 2000.
Also, this:
>
> **Failure modes**
>
>
> There are two limitations of stored information; endurance, and data
> retention.
>
>
> During rewrites, the gate oxide in the floating-gate transistors
> gradually accumulates trapped electrons. The electric field of the
> trapped electrons adds to the electrons in the floating gate, lowering
> the window between threshold voltages for zeros vs ones. After
> sufficient number of rewrite cycles, the difference becomes too small
> to be recognizable, the cell is stuck in programmed state, and
> endurance failure occurs. The manufacturers usually specify the
> maximum number of rewrites being 1 million or more.[5]
>
>
> During storage, the electrons injected into the floating gate may
> drift through the insulator, especially at increased temperature, and
> cause charge loss, reverting the cell into erased state. The
> manufacturers usually guarantee data retention of 10 years or more.[6]
>
>
>
from Wikipedia: [EEPROM - Failure Modes](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EEPROM#Failure_modes), indicating the answer might be into the millions.
At this point I'm just wondering if an expert might see this and relieve my angst... | [
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894 | E3D mentions on their [own wiki](http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly#Usage_Guidance):
>
> Excessively long retractions will cause issues by dragging soft filament into cold areas. [...] for bowden systems you might want to go up to 2 mm. Retraction beyond 2 mm is likely to cause issues.
>
>
>
I have retraction set to the recommended maximum of 2 mm, but I still get a lot of stringing and blobs. My printer is set up with a relatively long Bowden tube (500-600 mm). I wonder if I need to push my retraction setting slightly beyond 2 mm to take up some of the slack. Is the 2 mm a conservative rating (I guess they don't want dissatisfied customers with clogging problems) or is it really the maximum? Is there anything else I can do to improve retraction performance? (I already have a small coasting distance of 0.1 mm set.) | [
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899 | I am encountering a problem with this ID3 printer using ABS -- at some point during the print the print head displaces on the y-axis by 2-3 centimeters. I cannot pinpoint how or why it is doing this. It has displaced in the positive Y direction and in the negative Y direction on separate runs of the same piece (which is just a poker chip I found on Thingiverse).
Is this a software issue (Simplify3D) or a hardware issue? Can anybody suggest a fix?
See the following photos:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/b9Kyv.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1yH40.jpg) | [
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907 | Recently, the ticking sounds started to come from feeder of my UM2. Inspecting it I have noticed that once in a while stepper motor jumps back for few steps. I have an idea of what can be the reason, but I just want to hear what you can think of. That is the video of feeder during the printing :)
<https://youtu.be/z6CzudMOeD0> First tick at 10sec | [
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"text": "I had the same issue. It can happen for number of reasons.\nOne of them is too low print temperature as stepper cant ... | 2016/03/31 | [
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927 | What are the steps in the production process that factories that produce filament have to take to get from pellets to a full spool of filament.
Which of these steps are critical for quality (thickness, roundness, long shelf life,..) ? | [
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"text": "Each step is critical for quality. It's refined plastic mass. And in oil-based-products, every step is crucial for ... | 2016/04/02 | [
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931 | I have a long 8 mm smooth steel rod of about 55 cm long. This rods bend easily due to the length. If I replace them with 8mm solid carbon fiber rods, will the bending reduce? Will the bearings wear off the carbon fiber rod? I couldn't find too much information about this. | [
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936 | My printer will feature LM8UU bearings/threaded rods for the z-axis and bronze sinter bushings on the x- and y-Axis.
As also, but not only, written here <http://reprap.org/wiki/Lubrication>, I know that one should:
- use machine oil for sinter bearings, if anything at all,
- grease on the 'more fluid' side for the linear bearings so that the lubricant stays eqally with balls on the upper and lower side
- and probably PTFE grease for the threaded rods (as for example provided by the Ultimaker UM2)
Is there a way to unify this or at least only use two lubricants?
I do not have the slightest idea about lubricants, I would not know what to actually buy if the combination would e.g. be machine oil and low viscosity grease. Do you have specific recommendations of what to avoid? | [
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"text": "A mid-weight PTFE grease like the popular Superlube will work in all the cases you mention (bearings, screws, and ... | 2016/04/05 | [
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937 | I began printing the parts for the Ultrascope DIY telescope designed by the Open Space Agency. See <http://www.openspaceagency.com/ultrascope>.
All of the STL files for the 3D printable parts are canted 45 degrees. Brackets, tubes, everything I have seen so far. Is there a reason for this? I printed one part last night and simply rotated the part so it would lay flat because I didn't want to deal with supports. I am relatively new to 3D printing -- Am I missing something I should know? Is this a thing? | [
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"text": "The orientation of the part in the STL file depends on the Software that creates the file. I had a software that wo... | 2016/04/05 | [
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938 | I'm having a lot of trouble printing polypropylene right now, and I think it may have to do with the conditions. I'm using a very thin coat of ABS on the base plate (just as you would do when printing with ABS) in order to promote sticking.
In this following first picture, I attempted with a 240°C tip and a 150°C bed (above PP's Tg). Oddly enough, one side actually looked somewhat decent while the other clearly had trouble sticking. The print speed on this was 1500 mm/min.
In the second picture, I was printing with the tip at 220°C and a 50°C bed. What's interesting in that print (you may be able to see it) is that the polymer extruded with little blips of material followed by a more stringy section, rather than a steady, even filament. (Print speed on this was 2100 mm/min)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KCbye.jpg "240°C tip and a 150°C bed")
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/IaF8Z.jpg "220°C tip and a 50°C bed")
Does anyone have suggestions for doing better prints with PP? | [
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941 | I have an idea for a 3D printed project, but I'm a total noob in this area and need someone to reality check it for me.
Basically what I want to do is a tricopter frame made of a [tetrahedral honeycomb](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetragonal_disphenoid_honeycomb).
The whole model would be within 30 \* 30 \* 10 cm, the honeycomb edges would be approximately 1mm thick and about 15mm long and it would be printed out of nylon with SLS.
I have found Shapeways' design guidelines and my idea seems to fit it, but still it feels slightly more extreme use than what they had in mind.
Is this doable? Does anyone else use a similar method? Is there some software that I can use to generate honeycombs like this, or do I have to write it myself?
Edit:
This is how two layers of the honeycomb look like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ttIZ6.jpg)
In the actual model there would be several layer of this on top of each other and the shape would be kind of carved out of the honeycomb (+ some finishing to avoid spiky surface) | [
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948 | I can download a file from Tinkercad as any of these:
```
.STL
.OBJ
.X3D
.VRML
```
Is there a way to convert any of those file types to .DWG? | [
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951 | I am new to 3D printing and need to know if I use steel in printing, do I get the same strength (compression and shear) as steel profiles manufactured in a factory? | [
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953 | I've been asked to prepare a 3D model for 3D printing in sandstone. I've been told that it needs to be 3" tall and the walls have to be at least 2 mm thick. It's an absolute pain in the neck having to make sure everything is the right thickness. So, I was wondering, can the whole model just be printed as a solid object, with 100% infill, and does that work for sandstone? | [
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957 | Is there a way to make all your prints seamless?? I know there was this program that printed a vase constantly changing the z axis making it seamless. Why cant this be done with regular prints? | [
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962 | During printing, my printer occasionally makes some mystery moves: it will very slowly move either the X or Y axis all the way to the left/front, before very slowly moving back to its original position and resuming the print as normal. I've checked my G-code files, and the moves are definitely not part of the G-code. What could be causing this?
I'm printing from an SD card on a Cartesian printer. | [
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"text": "The issue was due to a corrupt SD-card, which was occasionally having some garbage read from it. It turns out ... | 2016/04/10 | [
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966 | I've been going down the learning road with two broken printers that I'm rebuilding with better parts and electronics.
One thing that I've recognized is that there is a pretty low likelihood that any hotend or heatbed that has had the thermistor/thermocouple and/or the printer board swapped with a non-OEM part can be trusted to accurately report it's own temperature.
Sure, there are lots of things I can (and do) do to try to make it as accurate as reasonable like calibrating with thermistors from multimeters, IR thermometers, etc., but each method has limitations. You never know if the 2nd thermistor is mounted both correctly, or if it is reading the same local temp as the printer thermistor. IR thermometers have issues with reflective surfaces (like aluminum hot ends and build plates) Calibrating the thermistor constants from experimental data isn't perfect.
IMHO, any hotend/heatbed temp on a DIY setup might be off by a constant ± 5 °C or so, more if it is poorly calibrated.
Printers use PID controlled heaters to keep oscillations down to a degree or two Celsius, because people say it impacts print quality.
Is there a good visual or experimental way to know whether your temperatures are "correct" for your printer/filament? IOW, if my filament was supposed to be heated to 220 °C, how would I know if my printer was having issues because the "true" temperature is only 215 °C (or 225 °C) when it is reporting 220 °C?
One common problem I've experienced is the nozzle clogging after the transistion from layer 1 to layer 2. (Layer 1 = higher heat and slower speeds, Layers 2+ = lower heat and faster speeds.) It's been a struggle to know which factor (lower heat or faster speeds) are to blame for the clogs after the transition. | [
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970 | I have a 3D printer that is going crazy with x-axis shift, and I need a tension gauge belt to measure the tension.
I've never used one before, and looking online, I can't tell which one would be the right fit.
Any ideas? What things should I look for? | [
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975 | [I'm still looking at wires](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/871/is-22-guage-stranded-hookup-wire-the-correct-wire-to-connect-the-switching-power) for my Prusa i3, to go between the power supply and [RAMPS 1.4](http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4), and [the power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) and the [MK2a Heatbed](http://reprap.org/wiki/PCB_Heatbed#MK2.2C_MK2a).
I also recently found a [400 ft. Wire Storehouse](http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-wire-storehouse-61527.html) that I bought from Harbor Freight which has wire sizes in it from AWG 10 through AWG 22 (and additionally speaker wire, Zip Cord and Bell).
I also bought some reading material, I picked up [Wiring Simplified 44th edition](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/097929455X), and in it on page 28, Table 4-1, there is a table with information about the [Ampacity](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampacity) of copper wires including their maximum temp (C), and maximum carrying current (Amps) based on their insulation types.
Unfortunately, the [400 ft. Wire Storehouse](http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-wire-storehouse-61527.html) does not provide any information in regards to the insulation type or quality and this makes it difficult for one to choose the correct wire based on the specification in the table.
Given that the thing only cost $30 for 400 Ft. of wire, it would lead me to believe that the cheapest grade of insulation was used; as I understand it, the TW type wire.
I also read a forum somewhere in which people were complaining about the cheapness of the wire in this kit, stating that one ought to wear gloves when working with it as there is probably lead in the insulation as well as the wire.
The largest copper wire I have found in the table that I have (AWG 10) says that it is rated at 30 AMP regardless of which type of insulation it has, should I be using the speakerwire instead? That isn't listed in the table. Also it should be noted that though the ratings for the [Ampacity](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampacity) are 30 AMPs, the max temperatures are different; with the TW being at 60 C.
As far as I can tell if I use the AWG 10 (TW?) to connect everything it won't matter, but I just thought I'd check here to be sure first since my power supply is rated at 30 AMPs and that's probably the same as the wire.... | [
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"text": "**THHN** wire is thermoplastic high heat-resistant nylon coated wire. \n\n**THWN** is thermoplastic heat- and ... | 2016/04/13 | [
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978 | I have a really bent heatbed PCB, the middle is elevated about 3 mm with respect to all edges.
I have found this thread [Warped PCBs](http://midibox.org/forums/topic/17599-warped-pcbs/), where a heating method is applied by baking a PCB in the oven, as described here: [3.2 Bow and Twist Repair](http://www.circuitrework.com/guides/3-2.shtml).
Can this help straightening out a Prusa heatbed PCB? If so, can I apply the heat by the heatbed itself, or do I need to utilize an oven? Will the pressure from the strongly clamped glass plate be enough or will the glass break at these temperatures (given that the heatbed can reach them). | [
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"text": "Baking PCB in an oven is not a good idea, I would say. I know PCBs are resistive to the heat (especially heatbed... | 2016/04/13 | [
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979 | **Before you put duplicate from this [Which are the food-safe materials and how do I recognize them?](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/147/which-are-the-food-safe-materials-and-how-do-i-recognize-them) please read**
I need to know if [this 3D Ink™ (PLA Filament)](http://store.printm3d.com/#filaments_head_scroll) is food safe[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lNh2d.png) | [
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981 | I have a prusa i3 with Mendel firmware and a RAMPS board. Recently it has been randomly stopping during prints. The LCD screen will lock up, the print will stop, and the heating elements will turn off. Pressing the reset button on the RAMPS restarts the system and it works fine.
In addition to stopping during prints, it has also frozen up while just sitting while on.
My first thought is the power supply (12V 30A) is going bad, but is there anything else I should check before I buy a new one and replace it?
Update:
I replaced the power supply with a new one, and the printer did not stop and completed a print. I am voting to close the question. | [
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982 | I have been using Solidworks and AutoCAD to create STL file of a 3D model I want to print. I slice the STL file using Freesteel Z level slicer (<http://www.freesteel.co.uk/wpblog/slicer/>) and save the slices in a bmp format.
My 3d print has an array of circular channels, all of one radius. I expected the bmp slice to contain the circular shapes looking exactly identical to each other. However, I don't obtain the exact same replicas. Looks like the pixel-wise mapping has not been done uniformly. (View <http://s24.postimg.org/p7w09zvkl/snippet.png> for the image).
I want each and every circle to be represented by exactly the same set of pixels in the bmp image, so that all of the circular contours are identical. (I do not prefer changing the pixel resolution.)
How can I overcome this problem? Are there any better tools which would lead to a perfectly uniform pixel-wise mapping?
Thanks!
PJ | [
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983 | I'm losing my mind, it all started out with the idea of a project where I want an abstract shape (I'm going to call it a stretched cube with an angle), now I know a bit of Vectorworks - a 3D/Architecture drawing program. I found nothing in all the tutorials how to make something low poly but still be able to for example screw the bottom of with a thread for example.
I found numerous shapes I like on Thingiverse but they are all STL files which I've learned so far are hard to edit and make them functionally usable when cross transferring them for one to another program.
Today I gave it another try to find other programs which can give me the result and functionality I want. Thus far I've only found program where you make the shape perfectly and then by using a mesh program like 123make and Meshmixer to then change the outcome of the rendering. But in my case this makes some parts unable to use anymore as example the threading?
So for the question I their a program which I can make a low poly shape (example below) where I still can add holes and threading like you can do with AutoCAD, Vectorworks.
I hope somebody knows how to do this I've been searching and asking around for weeks!!
This is an example of the type of shape I would like to create, [Low poly vase](https://www.google.be/search?q=low%20poly%20vase&espv=2&biw=1567&bih=976&tbm=isch&imgil=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%253A%253BNVFfgWtuiEyI8M%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.etsy.com%25252Flisting%25252F221563489%25252Fartsy-vases-redux-golden-polygon-modern&source=iu&pf=m&fir=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%253A%252CNVFfgWtuiEyI8M%252C_&usg=__9w_ZHPGpome2_nNv4VJ7ZRwwRUw%3D&ved=0ahUKEwiPqO-qpYzMAhUIow4KHY7BDmoQyjcIJg&ei=VJYOV4-uIojGOo6Du9AG#imgrc=s0wM9Yoq8UTF1M%3A) - mine would be exactly the same but it would be to give you an idea
Example of the thread I would like to implement in the shape above, [Tap and Die for 3D printed threads](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:227192) | [
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988 | I made a torus that was 1 on the x and y axes, and 3 on the z axis in Blender. It is supposed to be a bead for a beaded necklace. It was exported to Cura as an .stl, then printed on a Lulzbot Mini. It worked fine in plastic, but when we tried it with bronze filament the nozzle clogged and it didn't start printing.
Is there something I need to add to the model that will provide instructions for the printer? The person who operates the printer says that most, but not all, of the models he prints in bronze have a border around them when they print, and this one didn't. I don't know if that makes a difference. | [
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991 | On my [Switching Power Supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) there is a little orange trimpot that's marked `VR1`; what does that do, and does it work similar to the ones on the stepper drivers? | [
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"text": "Vr usually stands for variable resistor, basically a pot. Usually by adjusting this you would adjust the volta... | 2016/04/14 | [
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1,012 | I just recently purchased a new MightyBoard (Rev G) for my Replicator that requires a new power supply.
The power supply for the Rev E was a 24 V/9.2 A which was necessary for the dual extruders and heated bed. I know I need a 24 V power supply, but should I be concerned about the amperage? What will a higher (or lower) rating affect on my machine? | [
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"text": "I suggest looking at the maximum amperage draw for all components that could be on at one time, and then f... | 2016/04/18 | [
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1,026 | Some 3 mm filaments seem to actually be 3 mm - is there any way to shave off the excess and use it as 2.85 mm? | [
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"text": "I would not recommend you to try and somehow re-size the filament, since even the smallest of irregularities a... | 2016/04/20 | [
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1,032 | I was working on my printer when something metallic came into contact with the pcb. I smelled smoke and quickly unplugged the printer. Anyway, this is the result and, of course, the heat bed won't heat.
Can this be salvaged or should I toss it and buy a new one?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/WhRPu.jpg)
**update** the heat bed was not hot at the time. I had the heat bed unscrewed from the chassis but had forgotten to unplug the printer. I am not exactly sure how it shorted but I think it shorted between the power lead connection and the thermistor. | [
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"text": "What happend was short circuit of course. There is no doubt you overheated HB so copper detached from HB base pl... | 2016/04/21 | [
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1,035 | Some have suggested that filament costs are asymptotically approaching a baseline cost - others that costs are linearly decreasing. Does anyone know where to find the trending costs on a single class of filament over the past decade or more?
Part of the reason we are asking is to get enough longitudinal data to begin projecting costs for printing objects in the future. You might think of it like the "Moore's Law" of filament costs. | [
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"text": "You could have a look though the various price trackers for Amazon (like [ccc](http://uk.camelcamelcamel.com/K... | 2016/04/21 | [
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1,043 | Since I'm running a 3D printing facility of an engineering school, students are always wondering how much infill percentage affects the stiffness of the part. I know that it is impossible to get a numerical solution for this question, but maybe there is an option to simulate in software an already sliced model. I haven't seen in any slicer an option to export as .stl or .step or any other format which can be accepted by simulation software. Has anyone seen or thought about something similar? | [
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"text": "I don't believe that slicing engines create any sort of solid model that would be useful for CAD simulation. When a sli... | 2016/04/24 | [
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1,051 | I'd like to find an opensource software that communicates directly with the RAMPS board (or any other 3D printer driver) without using the arduino...
It doesn't matter if it runs on Windows or linux as long as it's opensource. Also, I'm not worried about how this communication is done (USB, serial port, parallel port)...
Has anyone ever heard about projects like this? | [
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"text": "No, there exists no software like that. You can't communicate with a RAMPs board because a RAMPs board has n... | 2016/04/27 | [
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1,065 | Hey so theres a product we have been prototyping.
We cant do FDM. The item has a ball valve.
and the ball ~ 1.6-1.9mm
I cant seem to prototype it. I have tried SLS, SLA, Polyjet.
Anybody knows what could be wrong, or what should be the dimension i should be using?
I thought I would post this at engineering section, but since I have to prototype I thought its best if its in 3D Printing section
Edit:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0neFf.png)
Update:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Byftf.png)
So heres a figure showing the direction of air flow.
Update:
Thanks both answers are helpful. though not a precise answer. Then again, there is no correct answer.
Thanks a bunch. Lets see how the coming months are. :p | [
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1,066 | Is there any type of software in which you can animate the way the .stl object will be printed?
I'm not talking about what the end result looks like. I'm talking about a tool which acts like it's printing the given object as an animation.
I know it somehow depends on your printer but is there anything I can use? | [
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"text": "You may wish to consider [Craftware](https://craftunique.com/craftware) for your purposes. It's a free program in ... | 2016/05/01 | [
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1,072 | My MakerBot 2 jams after a couple hours of prints. It is a couple months old, and the tip stops extruding after a couple straight hours of prints. I am guessing that there is a design flaw and that the media is melting inside the extruder before the feeding teeth. Does anyone have experience with this? | [
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"text": "You may wish to consider [Craftware](https://craftunique.com/craftware) for your purposes. It's a free program in ... | 2016/05/02 | [
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1,076 | I've been interested in 3D printing for the past month however, I have noticed that it's sort of a "reserved" topic. Meaning that everyone who talks about it, has already some basic knowledge about the topic. What are some good resources for someone who wants to start learning from zero? My main goal is to acquire enough knowledge in order to build my own 3D printer. | [
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1,080 | I'm trying to squeeze a little better quality out of my time lapses generated by OctoPrint.
I'm using the Raspberry Pi Camera Module V2 with a Pi 3. I've already edited the Octopi config to get 720p resolution, but the encoding during time lapse rendering is horrific. Blocky as hell.
Right now the encoding is set up at 5000k.
What am I doing wrong here? | [
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1,083 | I've printed mostly ABS in the past and encountered [delamination](https://www.google.com/#q=3d+printing+layer+delamination) between layers many times. I've ensured the following conditions regularly:
* Build plate is level
* Base of print isn't warped (using ABS slurry)
* Prevent air draft. I've added acrylic panels to the sides of the machine and the machine is in a custom cupboard.
* Nozzle temperature at about 225C
* HBP temperature at about 112C (I live in NW USA, so the ambient temperature is typically fairly cool).
* Using MakerBot filament
What are some other variables to consider to help prevent delamination between layers? | [
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1,085 | I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.
I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.
It will be print just fine, then clog up. It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew. I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.
I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result. it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed. No warping or peeling off. However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.
I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head. I've only had the printer for a couple weeks. It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray. Hairspray is AWESOME !! It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).
Please let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.
By the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below. That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qKNR5.jpg)
I think I figured out the problem. Now, to figure out a solution...
Take a look at the image below. There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink. This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm. So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head. When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.
The solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.
Any ideas???
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hFkPM.jpg)
Here is a picture of my heat tip. Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater. The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink. But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered. There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/i05Vo.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/08pZq.png) | [
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1,089 | I found a nice model for a ship from the game "Eve". It doesn't have a flat bottom, so it needs support material. But Slic3r generates several dozen tiny support pillars, and one by one they break loose from the build plate. As they get tall, the leverage of course increases, and since they're so tiny they don't have much area in contact with the bed, so they separate. Eventually the whole model broke free, turned a bit, and since I had gone to dinner it kept printing... see below. I think the main problem is the poor support material geometry, but the controls in Slic3r for support material don't seem to give many options.
How can I get better support material layout? Oh, this is PLA, by the way.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4sbr.jpg)
(appending to question to be able to put in the picture)
I tried a bunch of things, and the MeshMixer support, plus fiddling with several settings, got it to come out pretty well. Thanks to all, esp. @Tormod!
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gwngu.jpg) | [
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"text": "I see more important things on your photo. \n\n1. Filament layers are not sticked together, even these on the f... | 2016/05/04 | [
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1,100 | I have a RepRap Prusa i2. I have done the majority of my printing with clear PLA that I got on the cheap from eBay. It works just fine.
I bought a roll of Hatchbox Silver PLA (1.75 mm) from Amazon. I have never had a print go well with it. I have tried various combinations of hotter and cooler extruder and bed (180 - 220°C extruder, 50 - 78°C bed). Prints always either curl up from the bed after 5-20 layers are deposited or delaminate in the middle of the print. I print directly on the heated glass bed, and have also tried various cooling fan settings.
Does anyone have good settings (Slic3r) to use with this stuff? Or any other advice for getting a successful print? | [
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1,103 | I am looking to others who have successfully printed in ABS using a Wanhao Duplicator i3.
I have tried and get a lot of warping and delamination. I tried putting a large box over the printer which did help with the warping some but I am still getting some layer separation. I used 235 °C for the extruder and 100 °C for the bed. I am printing at 40 mm/s and 0.2 mm layer height.
If someone has ABS and PETG settings for this printer, your help would be appreciated. | [
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"text": "I am an official Wanhao Distributor\n\nBy experience I can recommend you to print with this settings:\n\n* Ext... | 2016/05/04 | [
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1,109 | I have seen mechanical (micro switch), optical and magnetic(magnet + hall sensor) end stops.
Are there any differences in how exact they switch at the right location? If so which are the most precise? | [
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"text": "I think there are several factors involved in which sensors are best, but the general ordering for me would be Hall... | 2016/05/05 | [
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1,113 | I am very close to buying a 3D printer and have started to do some preliminary design work from the things I'd like to make, but I have a question: Which corner of the print bed corresponds to the origin (0,0,0) in slicer software? Is this the same across slicers and printers?
The reason I ask this is because of the difficulty some have in removing items from the bed. It seems to me like I'd want to print small items closer to the front of the printer to make access easier, but it looks like most slicer hosts only show a box representing the build volume with no real indication of what's "front". | [
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"text": "Depending on what kind of printer you have, the build table origin and slicer origin (0,0) are usually either the... | 2016/05/05 | [
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1,119 | I would like to get a green tombow PITS adhesive stick. On Rakuten, it costs \$1 (USD). On my 3d printer's (XYZ) retailer's site, it costs \$20 (USD). Due to the costs and the fact that Rakuten does not ship to my country, I need an alternative. I am currently using Davinci 1.0 for my bed, which I believe is a glass bed. So, my questions are:
1. What glue is best for PLA plastic?
2. What glue is best for ABS plastic?
3. Is there a glue that functions with both types of plastic? | [
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"text": "Most PVA glue works well for both (Poly Vinyl Acetate). \n\nThere are different brands in every country."
},
{
... | 2016/05/06 | [
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1,120 | I'm trying to set up [OctoPrint](http://octoprint.org/) on my Linux Ubuntu 16.04 desktop to work with my Micro3D printer. The printer works fine on Mac and Windows:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Kmil9.png)
I've installed OctoPrint with the [M3D Fio Plugin Manager](https://github.com/donovan6000/M3D-Fio). I can see the files in `~/.octoprint/` fine and I can even turn the printer fan on/off, move the extruder, etc. through OctoPrint:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qyeCZ.png)
But when I press the blue "Print button", there is no response. Also the files in the "upload" section are greyed out. Must I download a slicing program or something? I'm new with 3D printing in general but not with Linux. Grateful for help! | [
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"text": "I just discovered that OctoPrint only reads .gcode files for printing (apparently, unless you have a slicing softwa... | 2016/05/06 | [
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1,125 | I recently decided to upgrade to auto bed-leveling using an inductive proximity sensor and an aluminum build plate on my Prusa i3. I also wanted to try to secure the build plate using neodymium magnets at 4 points, with the magnets being secured with bolts to the Y-carriage, and steel washers glued to the bottom of the aluminum build plate (since aluminum is not magnetic).
I would like to know if anybody has attempted this, and what the results were, as well as any issues incurred. My primary concern is a possible interference between the small magnetic field that is created by the magnet, and the sensor when probing the plate. I fear this question may sound a little open-ended, but I would just like to know if this could work. Please feel free to ask any follow up questions to details I may have missed. Thank you.
P.S. I would also like to note, in case there is any relevance, I do not plan on using a heated build plate, since I have a heated build chamber. | [
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"text": "Good question. The magnets from the build plate will almost certainly interfere with your inductive sensor, the mo... | 2016/05/07 | [
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1,130 | I have a Prusa i3 that I am mostly happy with. However, I am seeing these strange artifacts when the extruder moves along one axis in one direction - in particular from the back of the printer towards the front. The extruded lines look uneven and the surface is quite rough, but only in that area and only while the extruder moves in that direction.
Here is a recent print that shows this happen. The pieces were printed side by side, and both of them show this on the left hand side, while the right is okay.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MNLHp.jpg)
I am thinking maybe the extruder tip is slanted (not perpendicular to the bed), which causes some sort of scraping while extruding? What do you think? | [
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"text": "In case of such difference in printing in different directions you can check if;\n\n1. for x and partially z ax... | 2016/05/09 | [
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1,143 | I know there is a 3d printing technique, where sheet of papers are cut and glued. Like the ones [Staples](http://www.gizmag.com/staples-mcor-easy-3d-printing/25284/) has in their stores. But this sort of paper isnt recyclable, because of the heavy use of glue.
Is anywhere filament available, which is made of cellulose or other recyclable and bio-degradable material? Or do you know if research is going on in this area?
edit: added bio-degradable | [
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"text": "Check Green-TEC by [extrudr.eu](http://extrudr.eu/collections/bdp) is made from lignin (wood)\nor perhaps Algix... | 2016/05/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1143",
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1,150 | I am trying to make a structured light 3D scanner using single camera, light projector and a turntable.
After days on Google I did not find any reliable open source project which I can get to work. [SLStudio](https://github.com/jakobwilm/slstudio) really seemed a good choice but did not compile properly.
I was wondering if anyone knows a good open source which they have used with the same kind of setup? Any help would be really appreciated. I am blocked here. | [
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"text": "Try [Brown University School of Engineering: Projector-Camera Calibration / 3D Scanning Software](http://mesh.brown.... | 2016/05/11 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1150",
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1,151 | After printing successfully for a while I received an error saying:
Tool 0 Failure!
Temp limit reached
Shutdown or restart.
The front panel is not responsive and doesn't allow the printer to print at all. If I quickly go to monitor mode it shows tool 0 temperature in the ~700°C range; which made me think it was the thermocouple.On the motherboard I unplugged the thermocouple and the same error occurred, I then swapped the other thermocouple and put it in its place and got the same error except the tool 1 temperature showed "NC".
I had recently taken apart the extruders to change out the nozzles and thought I had possibly smashed the wires when putting it together but now I don't think that's the case.
I'm on the phone with FlashForge's tech support but wanted to see if someone else has had the same experience for cross reference.
What's the underlying issue? Is there a quick solution to this that can get me printing right away (I'm under a deadline)? What's the end solution? | [
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"text": "It sounds like a failed TC amp chip. But we need to rule out some other stuff. \n\nSome important facts about the... | 2016/05/11 | [
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1,156 | I have a Flashforge Creator Dual.
One corner of my print bed is warped down. I am thinking about having a steel print bed made so it would tend to stay flat.
Has anyone tried this? | [
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"text": "I would consider getting another aluminum build plate for the following reasons:\n\n* **Lightweight**. Aluminum is a ve... | 2016/05/12 | [
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1,160 | I use Prosi i3 with one extruder for some years and I would like to print from one material in two colors or from different materials for one model. Therefore I'm lookig for new printer with dual extruder.
Is there some way how to measure and/or compare quality of printers with dual extruder on the market?
For example to create 3d model - ask the seller(s) to print it - and then compare? - what details to focus on? | [
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"text": "As you suggest yourself, ordering test prints of some model is one way to do it. \n\n[3D Hubs](https://www.3dhu... | 2016/05/13 | [
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1,165 | I have a 3D model that I'd like to print. This is my first project, so I'm trying to decide if I'm getting in over my head. Here's the model rendered with Blender:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/N1cVF.png)
If I throw it at a commercial printing shoppe, is it going to be fairly straight forward? Or is it unlikely to be able to get the colours fitting together like this to work well? | [
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"text": "You would need to ask around shops to see what they think about this 3d file. What I have heard is that colors o... | 2016/05/14 | [
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1,167 | I printed a big base for a model, but the corners of the bottom bent up, making the whole base rock when set on a table. Is there a quick fix for a makerbot2 without a heated plate? | [
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"text": "here are the options:\n\n* Use brim settings which increase contact surface.\n* Use some sort of glue. People a... | 2016/05/14 | [
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1,177 | I know that the SLS 3D printer stands for selective laser sintering,where as DMLS stands for direct metal laser sintering.
I want to know that,can i convert SLS 3D printer to DMLS.
By just changing powder(or another way?) | [
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"text": "By just changing powder: No. \n\nChanging the powder, the laser and the chamber, maybe you can get something, b... | 2016/05/15 | [
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1,202 | I just received my E3D v6 hotend and I am installing it on the open source design of a Prusa i3. How do I clean my hotend after each print and after using different filaments? | [
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"text": "Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of th... | 2016/05/19 | [
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1,205 | I have a FlashForge CreatorX (MakerBot clone) that's been working fine for about 15 months. Int he past month, I started noticing "thin" layers in some of my ABS prints. I finally tracked the issue down to the extruder gear grinding the filament (after a while, enough filament had ground off that the gear teeth were filled with plastic). I cleaned the gear twice before giving up on ABS and switching to PLA. Everything seemed ok until the PLA started doing the same thing during an overnight print (thin layers on prints, audible skipping during filament feed).
Raising the temperature on the extruder seems to fix the problem, but I'm now extruding PLA at 242 °C, much higher than I used to need. I worry that continued printing at this temperature will increase wear on the thermistor and increase my chances of clogging PLA in the gear (an issue I've had twice before).
Are there any common issues that cause this issue of filament not feeding properly? I've tried cleaning out the extruder head with wire and there don't seem to be any clogs… | [
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"text": "Usually there is no need to clean the hotend, as filament sticks well to itself rather than to the inside of th... | 2016/05/20 | [
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1,207 | BuildTak is great because the printed plastic really sticks to it, it pretty much solved all the problems I had with prints detaching from the buildplate during printing.
However, it does sometimes cause the opposite problem of prints sticking too much and just not detaching from the build plate.
I'm specifically not asking how to prevent this from happening - I'm asking what to do after I made a mistake and now have a print that isn't coming loose. | [
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"text": "If you have a heated bed, bring the bed up to a reasonable temperature, then do as best as you can to create rapid... | 2016/05/20 | [
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1,211 | What is the least expensive 3D printer available today? I am looking for something suitable for general use in a home office. | [
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"text": "**Depends on your definition of \"available\" and your definition of \"suitable for general use.\"** \n\nThe chea... | 2016/05/21 | [
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