qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
1,215 | For last two weeks I have been struggling with flow rate adjustments. I'm using an UM2, colorFabb XT 1.75mm and Slic3r. Before printing a test cube I made flow rate adjustments using the "Perimeter test" (printed a hallow cube with 1 layer thin perimeter line). I then compared the desired value of the perimeter's width with the value from the g-code and adjusted the flow rate. I repeated this procedure until I got exactly the thickness I needed. After that, I printed a 15x15x15 mm cube and observed under extrusion on top layer. Also, the dimensions of the cube in the x-y plane were smaller than expected (0.4mm shorter than they should be). I have done this a few times now, and still get the same result. :/ Furthermore, I was unable to adjust width by dividing the desired value of the width of the perimeter by a real value, I got slightly smaller extrusion multiplier (One I got by division is 0.9 , but 9.5 relates to desired width). Do you have some suggestion guys?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pcfx5.jpg)
Update:
I'll try to explain the calibration method I have used.
1. I have made in Solidwork 15x15x15 mm cube.
2. The cube was imported into Slic3r, where I have set the infill to 0% and number of sides shells equal to 1 and number of top and bottom shells equal to 0 (It gave me one layer thin wall in shape of cube).
3. I printed it out and measured the width using caliper and compared with the perimeter's width from g-code.
4. I have got something about 0.7, but the extrusion width in g-code is 0.65, so I changed extrusion multiplier by 0.65/0.7 = 0.93 (what is not actually true, because I got correct value on 0.95 only)
5. I have repeated the procedure for many times, and always got wrong dimensions and under extrusion.
There is the video about method I just have explained: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA> | [
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"text": "It looks like you overtune it. I think it's because top layer of hollow object doesn't have any support (which ... | 2016/05/22 | [
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1,225 | I'm running Repetier Host v1.6.1 with Repetier Firmware v0.92.9. My computer is running Windows 7 Pro SP1, 64-bit.
If I set a print going via USB then switch to another user (note: I do not log out), then the pinter's display shows that the command buffer drops from 16 to 0 until it stops printing altogether. If I switch back to the user that is running Repetier Host then the buffer fills up again and the print job resumes.
Before I updated Repetier Host this didn't happen, I could leave it running while I switched users and the job would run just fine. I'm not sure why this behaviour has changed, but is there any way to get it to run properly under a background user? | [
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"text": "I believe what happens here is that Windows suspends the process running the print job, either due to the prog... | 2016/05/25 | [
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1,234 | I am attempting to construct model tank tracks with accompanying wheels and sprockets. All parts will be printed in PLA. The tracks will be driven by electric motors.
What would be a suitable grease for this project to minimize friction without damaging the plastics. | [
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"text": "You may find a solution with the common lubricant containing PTFE, often called Super Lube. It is described in man... | 2016/05/29 | [
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1,239 | I recently upgraded to a E3D full hotend and I started to have problems with slowly printed parts. After I print first object and start next one, then the first layer has serious issue.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wSSm4.jpg)
The first two test were extruded around 10mm/s, the right one around 15mm/s. The material is PLA (fillamentum.com) at temperature 210°C and nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. The Rebel II RepRap printer uses RAMPS with marlin firmware. I use Slic3r and Pronterface SW.
I didn't find answer in following troubleshooting guides:
* [Simplify3D - Print Quality Troubleshooting Guide](https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/)
* [A visual Ultimaker troubleshooting guide](http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide)
* [RepRap - Print Troubleshooting Pictorial Guide](http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide)
* [all3dp.com - 16 Common 3D Printing Problems (And Solutions)](https://all3dp.com/common-3d-printing-problems-and-their-solutions)
Do you have an idea what can cause this issue?
Update
------
I did a new print, where I just heat the hotend and start printing immediately. This is the result:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Tqugj.jpg) | [
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1,244 | I've been having a hard time lately getting the raft off of my ABS prints.
Is that a symptom of either a nozzle or bed that are too hot? Or is there some other factor I should be looking in to?
I have an UP mini that I've modified both the nozzle and bed to customize the temperatures on.
Bed gets heated to 100˚C and nozzle is either 266˚C for UP ABS filament or 236˚C for off-brand ABS filament. | [
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"text": "A couple things to consider:\n\n* Ensure that your build plate is flat and level. An un-parallel HBP could result in the... | 2016/05/31 | [
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1,247 | Sparked by [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1245/running-12v-on-a-24v-heater-cartridge), I wanted to discuss the most efficient and also the easiest ways of thermally insulating the heat block of the hotend.
I have seen [Kapton tape insulations as done here](http://numbersixreprap.blogspot.fr/2013/10/does-insulating-heater-block-make.html) with a very conclusive resumee about its usefulness.
In the links of the named article, [a method with insulating material from a heatbed is described](http://bukobot.com/hot-end-thermal-management), however without giving quantitative results.
Additionally, I know that in the guys over in the german reprap forum produce their own [silicon covers for the heater block](http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?252,584458). As I understand there is a large spread between people's reports, from 'almost negligible' as insulator (but helpful for other things) to very useful. No quantification, though. Also, these seem to come with a certain amount of effort to produce.
Are there additional solutions and/or comparisons between solutions? | [
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"text": "The \"quick and dirty\" approach is to just slap a bunch of Kapton tape on there. The more the better! (Until yo... | 2016/06/01 | [
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1,251 | From what I've been able to find out, online sources recommend around 205ºC for PLA and around 240ºC for ABS. But these are only guidelines, of course. Optimal printing temperature can be different depending on the printer, the filament, the model and other slicer settings.
For example, I've had success printing black PLA at 190ºC, but silver PLA of the same brand is giving me trouble. I'm having a hard time figuring out the general rules. So I would like to see a general guide for this, based on (at least) the following questions:
1. Which known factors before a print can help determine the right extrusion temperature? Obvious example: ABS vs PLA
2. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too low?
3. What can happen during or after a print when the temperature is too high?
An answer to the first question could take the form of a lookup table, or similar. The second and third could help someone adjust their temperature based on the symptoms of a failed print.
*I understand that the failure or success of a print can depend on many more factors than extrusion temperature, but I didn't want to make this question too general. I may later ask the same question for other settings (e.g., print speed). However, do let me know if this question should be expanded or improved to make it more useful.* | [
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"text": "1. Some manufacturers give a recommended temperature which would be the best place to start at and adjust from there. O... | 2016/06/02 | [
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1,258 | I've been working on my own DIY 3-D printer recently, and I've been trying to experiment a little with different materials for the body. Someone suggested using HDPE (high-density polyethylene), since it works well on a CNC machine, which would make creating a number of prototypes easy. I know HDPE can also be used for filament, but I've never tried it before. Does anybody have any input on HDPE, or other potential materials for the body? I'm trying to avoid using wood, as I've had some poor experiences with it. | [
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"text": "I've used what is commonly described as UHMW-PE, aka, Ultra-high Molecular Weight Polyethylene for various projects... | 2016/06/03 | [
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1,266 | I am planning on getting a 3D printer soon and I was just wondering, what do you do with 3D prints that either failed or were prototypes that you no longer want?
I tried looking online but the closest I got was effects on environment, turning prints back into filament, or restarting a failed print half-way, none of which were the information I was looking for.
The solution should be somewhat eco and just keeping unwanted prints in a box somewhere isn't a very good solution either.
Finishing off failed prints isn't totally applicable because it wouldn't apply to prototype prints that you don't want to keep.
Is there anywhere to send failed 3D prints for professional recycling, or are there any recommendations for properly disposing 3D prints?
In case this is of any use, the printer I am planning to get uses filament that can be made of PLA, ABS, Nylon, and possibly other materials. The printer is this one specifically (<https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/101hero/101hero-the-world-first-us49-3d-printer>) from KickStarter. | [
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"text": "It will be very difficult to find a recycling facility that will accept your 3D prints, because they're main... | 2016/06/06 | [
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1,271 | I have an object that I want to print in 3D. But I have a few questions about it. What are the things that I have to watch out for when 3D printing?
I know how to change the metric size etc. Some people said that it's best to set the thickness to a low amount and not make the object solid (to leave the inside empty/hollow) in order to save money when printing.
Is this true or does it not matter?
Also what if I want two parts of an object to be separate colours or materials? Do I have to change this in Blender?
Any advice and information would be helpful, thanks.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TG6Mg.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/KIEy1.png) | [
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"text": "You are correct about the walls. Using a *Solidify* object modifier is probably your best bet. A low *Thickness:*... | 2016/06/06 | [
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1,275 | I just recently upgraded my Printrbot Simple Metal with a heated bed (and longer x-axis). I looked up some tutorials, and all of them placed the thermistor as in the picture on the left below, so I did too. However, the design of the heat plate seems to strongly suggest thermistor placement as in the picture on the right, inside the small hole near the center.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2nF92.png) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/tzmTq.png)
I can certainly see the upside of that. The reported temperature may overshoot the average bed temperature (the reasoning used in the tutorials I read), but most of my prints are built in the center of the bed, and the center placement would surely make the temperature control system more responsive.
What are the pros and cons of these placements? And what would be the proper technique for putting the sensor in the center? Should I still use kapton tape? Do I need to make sure the thermistor makes physical contact with the aluminum of the print bed? | [
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1,277 | It occurs to me that I'm never really thinking about layer height when I calibrate my z-probe offset. This is obviously an oversight, because I'll want my nozzle to start higher for 0.3mm layers than for 0.1mm layers.
After this realization comes the question: Do I need to recalibrate every time I switch to a different layer height? Or can slicers store a reference layer height + probe offset and just deduce the proper starting height for every print? Or is it smartest to keep the 1st layer height constant throughout my prints to spare myself this frustration?
If it matters, my printer is the Printrbot Simple Metal, and my goto slicer is Cura. | [
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"text": "The first layer is usually squished more to help with the adhesion. On top of that with ABS there's a bit of deform... | 2016/06/07 | [
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1,281 | First, a little background. A couple of years ago, I was researching making my own candy, and I came across this page: [Lage brick shaped gummy candies](http://www.instructables.com/id/LeGummies-brick-shaped-gummy-candies/), describing how to use real Lage bricks as a positive to make silicone molds for Lage brick shaped candy. Now that I have a 3D printer, and inspired by the usual description of ABS filament ("It's the same plastic used to make Lage bricks") it occurs to me that I can now make any positive I want.
The question is, would that be safe? I know the filament I'm using is not food safe, but if I create positives for a food safe silicone mold, would toxins leech into the mold? And if so, is there a barrier I can use to prevent this, such as some kind of coating? | [
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1,286 | I need to transport my FDM 3D Printer because I am moving.
What are the precautions that one should take?
Should I dismount the motors and axes?
I would definitively unplug the electronics as far as reasonable and fix the motors to the frame so they don't slide during transport.
Should I have a housing to avoid dust and other mechanical issues? | [
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"text": "Yes, fix the motors and any other loose/movable parts. Remove the bowden tube if it's there, and any other parts ... | 2016/06/09 | [
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1,292 | I have a home built RepRap with all sides open..
Would there be any advantage to enclosing the print area in acrylic? | [
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1,312 | I am printing on a non-heated bed right now, but the question also applies to heated building plates.
How often should you replace the glue layers that's supposed to be applied before printing? Some say you can do up to a few prints, such as in this [forum](https://ultimaker.com/en/community/19056-glue-stick-or), while others say to replace it every print. What is the correct approach? | [
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"text": "As noted in the answer to the other question you asked, the Flux Delta steel plate bed will handle multiple layers... | 2016/06/11 | [
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1,316 | I use OctoPrint on an Ubuntu system with a M3D printer.
Midway through a recent print, the filament just stopped extruding although the motor-functions of the printer were proceeding fine. Since then, every print I attempt has trouble extruding proper amounts of filament. It's always not enough. The output is stringy and not cohesive.
I'm thinking there may simply be a clog in the extruder and wondering the safest way to remove it.
The weird thing, though, is that when I use manual control and extrude at, say, 220C, the filament comes out fine.
You can see the raft definitely isn't printing right. Way too little output:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/M4Ih4.png) | [
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1,325 | I'm new to 3D Printing. I've created this star from Blender3d. As far as I know, most printers require a flat bottom.
As you can see (blue line is Z-axis, red line is X-axis, green line Y-axis), the star doesn't have any flat sides or points.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Mh6Bw.png)
There's a hole in the middle of the star.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/V4a6C.png)
Is there a printer (brand/model) that can print this object that doesn't have any flat bottom or sides having a hole that goes through in the middle? Any workarounds to print this object? | [
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1,328 | I'm setting up my printer in a small room, and I thought I'd come up with a system for more easily swapping filaments, but I'm not yet sure it is feasible.
Rather than physically replace the spool, I'd like to hang most of my spools on the wall, where they can rotate, and only swap filament leads in the (direct drive) extruder. The spools would be placed at some distance from the extruder, and at various angles. So to make sure the filament is pulled from the spool at the proper angle, and to avoid breaking it, I think it should probably run through a [flexible tube](http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CVKM62Q) to reach the printer.
I know such tubes are used for Bowden style extruders, but what I'm proposing is different in at least two ways: **[1]** the extruder motor would be *pulling* (not *pushing*) filament through the tube and **[2]** the tube would be longer than normal, e.g., between 1 and 2 meters.
Is this plan feasible? Or are the problems I am not foreseeing?
---
**Edit 1:** I don't know where I got 1-2 meters from. The distance is actually closer to 50cm.
**Edit 2:** To clarify my proposed setup, here's a crude mockup:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nWcuk.png) | [
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"text": "I would say it's not the best approach. \n\nIn the situation you've described I would rather install some kind ... | 2016/06/13 | [
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1,334 | I have this [GoPro mount for a quadcopter as STL file](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1381474). It looks as follows.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qcZOR.png)
How do I modify it so that it is wider and longer by a few millimeters but the screw holes stay the exact same size? Additionally the angle of the upper surface must stay the same. Please suggest the easiest solution for someone like me who as no idea about CAD software.
The perfect solution for me would be to just import it in Tinkercad and then modify it however I have no idea what the steps are. | [
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1,345 | Is it possible to connect two pieces of 1.75 mm filament end to end, with no change in width? I am asking the question because I am interested in creating a multi-filament feeder to a single extruder, and I am curious about the process of changing filament while the 3-d printer extruder continues uninterrupted. My current best-guess at the optimal solution is to someone 'cut' one end of the filament and 'melt' it to the end of another filament. | [
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"text": "You'd have to ensure that the joining portion of the two filaments do not \"bloom\" or increase in diameter, which... | 2016/06/15 | [
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1,355 | Is it possible to print toothbrush bristles using a common FDM 3D printer? I am particularly interested in the width of bristles, closeness together of each bristle, and the flexibility of each particular bristle. | [
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"answer_id": 1369,
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"text": "Actually last year a group did use a normal FDM printer to 3d print hair, brushed, etc. See the press release from... | 2016/06/16 | [
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1,357 | Since [iBox Nano](http://www.iboxprinters.com/) is the smallest public-production-available 3d Resin printer (and the cheapest so far), I assume it has a huge size limitation. So far I've only seen pictures of its outputs that are [miniature things](http://www.iboxprinters.com/ibox-nano-1/). I've never tried it nor have I seen it in action in person so I'd like to be sure.
**For example**, my 3D models are of the size of beads to figurines to a standard sized pencil cup holder.
**I want to know in inches or millimeters the dimension (width, length, height) of the biggest possible object the iBox Nano can print.** | [
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"text": "From their website I found a [comparison between 300 microns down to 50 microns print quality](h... | 2016/06/16 | [
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1,361 | What are the differences, and pros & cons, between 3D printers with varying layouts for moving head vs. moving build plate?
Example layouts would include:
* X Head; YZ Bed;
* XY Head; Z Bed;
* XYZ Head;
* etc.
In particular, what are their respective strengths, weaknesses, specializations, maintenance considerations, etc.? | [
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"text": "Without going into too much detail, since this is a very exhaustive topic, I'll write some pro's of each down from the ... | 2016/06/17 | [
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1,362 | I have a (HIC) version of the Prusa i3. I have recently installed the E3D v6 hotend and titan extruder. After fixing some other issues, I noticed that there is no filament being extruded. In addition, the gear looked like it was going in the wrong direction. How can I fix this? | [
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"text": "You can either flip the connector for the motor around (i.e. plug it in backwards) or (if you are using Marl... | 2016/06/17 | [
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1,371 | I am using Slic3r to generate the GCode for my Marlin-based printer. For some reason with increasing height my print starts to get messed up. On another part it starts to act like this when there are small parts. Is this related to my Slic3r settings, maybe to much filament being extruded or is this due to something else?
Any help is highly appreciated and I can provide more pictures of messed up parts or slic3r config if necessary.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/jTyk1.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/J4Thr.jpg) | [
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"text": "To me, this looks like a combination of bad filament, high temperature and/or fast speeds.\n\n* Too high extrusion tempe... | 2016/06/17 | [
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1,373 | I'm using a CraftBot original to print PLA, but some of the filament has become stuck in the teeth of the [extruder gear](https://craftunique.com/item/craftbot-extruder-gear) on its way into the hot end. I'm having issues with the gear becoming stuck and "clicking" instead of turning, and I suspect it is because of the clogged teeth. I haven't changed materials in a long time. I've cleared several print head clogs, but each time the gear gets back around to the one spot, it seems to get stuck again.
Are there any good ways to clean this gear? I was thinking of putting it in a toaster oven and trying to melt the PLA off it, ideally without setting my house on fire in the process. Anyone have better ideas? | [
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"text": "If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair... | 2016/06/17 | [
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1,383 | Is there any simple way of creating tappered thread in OpenSCAD? I need something like 10 mm in diameter at the end, 9 at the top and the height of 10 mm. | [
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"text": "If you are able to remove the gear, as I suspect you can, a useful tool is the file card. It resembles a flat hair... | 2016/06/18 | [
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1,389 | I have an option to purchase a hobby multi-purpose device (lathe/mill/drill/grinder/cutter) which is manually controlled, but easily converted for driving by stepper motors (all 3 axis are controlled by turning knobs that can be replaced by gears, with convenient mount to couple each to a stepper motor). I have the right motors and can easily obtain drivers for them.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7zCMv.jpg)
That is the way to overcome the worst problem of converting Prosi to CNC: the flimsy mechanics not able to withstand stress and vibrations of machining. Then I can connect the drivers to the 3 axis of Prosi's electronics, optionally connect some driver of the spindle to the extruder output (or just control it manually), and it seems the hardware side of the device is done.
The problem is the rest - adapting the software. RepRap family of 3D printers being open source means their software and hardware *can* be adapted. It's only a matter of *how hard* it is.
Does anyone have any experience in that direction? What would such conversion involve? Just recalibration to the new gear/leadscrew ratios, or something more involved, like editing the sources to get rid of all the temperature safeguards and the likes? | [
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"text": "I haven't done this myself. But the temperature safeguards only apply to the 4th, the E axis for the filament. So... | 2016/06/19 | [
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1,399 | I've been printing small quantities from a PLA filament spool on a Craftbot printer for about two months now. Recently the printed objects have been coming out very brittle. Some structures that printed fine two months ago are now difficult to re-print. The print head gets clogged easily, and when the object does print, it's quite brittle and 1/4" to 1/8" rods will easily snap off if not handled gently.
I'll admit to not following the precautions for storage of PLA. It's much easier to just leave the filament installed rather than trying to remove it after each print, so this one spool has just been sitting on the back of the printer for all these weeks now. I'm sure it's been humid some of the days, we've had some rain here.
Has the spool of PLA been damaged just by leaving it exposed to room air for two months? Could that be the sole cause of the brittle prints, or are there other possible causes? Is there any way to fix the spool or future prints from this spool, or do I have to scrap it and get a new spool? | [
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"text": "PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than ... | 2016/06/21 | [
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1,403 | So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.
I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again? | [
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"text": "PLA absorbs moisture, so keeping the filament dry is a key factor. Aside from that, PLA is naturally more brittle than ... | 2016/06/22 | [
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1,404 | Inspired by another question and due to the fact that some of my filament will face the same problem when I will use them again, I wanted to know if there are proven recipies to get rid of water that has ben incorporated to PLA filament from humidity? One knows the filament had too much exposure to humidity when hearing tiny puffs during extrusion and/or more brittle prints.
I know about suggestions to heat the water out of the filament at a temperature well below the glass transition temperature, but can someone provide first hand knowledge or even evidence? | [
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"text": "Storing PLAs in plastic zip locks along with Silica Gel helps with extraction of water from PLAs. If y... | 2016/06/22 | [
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1,430 | I have the [XYZPrinting da-Vinci-1.0](http://us.xyzprinting.com/us_en/Product/da-Vinci-1.0) with ABS filament. I am concerned about ventilation. If this is used inside, what safety precautions are necessary, which are recommended, and/or which are optional? | [
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"text": "your fine at practical temperatures.\nsource: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acrylonitrile_butadiene_styrene#Hazar... | 2016/06/23 | [
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1,433 | Can I use a metal filament such as Copper, Zinc Alloy, Silver filaments on M3D Micro? *The Pro hasn't come out yet but I assume it would if the Micro can since the Pro is suppose to be the improvement edition.*
An example of a metal filament that I found is this [Silver PLA 1.75mm Filament](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00T76GLWE). Here's one for [Cooper PLA 1.75mm Filament](http://www.sainsmart.com/sainsmart-plated-copper-pla-1-75mm-filament-1kg-2-2lb-for-3d-printers.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwtLO7BRDax4-I4_6G71USJAA6FjN1VDu_t4Co-u949PfHWjVL0x6BD-I-4ZLRUEij0bhWLhoCSSbw_wcB).
I would like to make small sculptures or bracelet beads/charms, and whatever else I could think of making using metal. And, I'm asking because I'm new to 3d printing, I want to learn how to work with a 3d printer and M3D is very affordable for me. *So I'm making sure before I buy*. Note that I've emailed M3D twice and I didn't get any reply.
If not M3D, can any other 3D Printer comparable to M3D do this? The MBot Mini, maybe? | [
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"text": "Most 3D printers that use non-proprietary filament *can* print exotic filaments, such as the ones you mention.... | 2016/06/25 | [
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1,434 | I search about that topic, but all what I found, was the mechanical part of the 3d printer. But I didn't find, how to program it using arduino.
I want to make a cartesian 3d printer. I don't have a printer yet, but I will buy all the components that I need actually.
I know, how to control stepper motors, but I don't know, how I can program it in order to make the shape that I want.
This is my question: what I need to learn in order to let this 3d printer make this shapes? | [
{
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"text": "Yes. \nLook up Arduino Ramps 1.4\n\n<http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4>\n\nFollowing the programing is all done fo... | 2016/06/26 | [
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1,442 | I created a new project in Materialise Magics, added a few parts (different STLs), moved them around in certain positions and now I want to export this project into another STL, containing my recent work.
The export menu seems to be all grey, like this function is not available. Do I have to do some repairing first or something similar? Or Magics needs other software in order to export a Magics Project to a STL file? | [
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"text": "Yes. \nLook up Arduino Ramps 1.4\n\n<http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4>\n\nFollowing the programing is all done fo... | 2016/06/28 | [
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1,444 | I am using the E3D v6 hotend with the titan extruder. Everytime I go to do a test print, just enough stringy filament oozes comes out of the hotend "right before" it lays down the first layer. I have no idea why it oozes out the little bit of filament before it prints.... The unwanted filament builds up while some of the first layer is done. As a result, what has been printed or about to be printed get stuck together as it tries to do the rest of the print....
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ezHBV.jpg) | [
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"text": "As the filament in the melt chamber heats up, it's going to inevitably ooze a little bit. Make sure you watch fo... | 2016/06/29 | [
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1,449 | My Craftbot Plus Craftware slicer estimates cost per job based on filament prices I add as parameters. What costs per meter would you use? I created spreadsheets to calculate this for 1.75mm diameter filament and arrived at PLA = 6.6 cents per meter, ABS = 6.1 and PET XT = 18.6 cents per meter.
Edit: thanks for feedback! I paid \$22 per kilogram for PLA and ABS. I paid \$57 for .75 kilogram of Colorfab XT Black. | [
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"text": "The simplest method is to divide spool price by its length. That's obvious I think. If PLA 1.75 (1kg net) has a... | 2016/06/29 | [
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1,451 | I have a serious problem and I can't find a way to solve it because I have no idea why is it happening.
For some reason the things I print get really messy, like a mountain range growing on the print. It looks like overflow but it can't be because I'm already using 0.82 flow modifier and if I go any lower the printout will fall apart as the extrusions won't touch at all. I've double checked my extruder steps and my filament and also my nozzle width, all are set up correctly. The whole thing looks like the printer is over-extruding just in some parts of the print.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/CgpKL.jpg) | [
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"text": "It definitely looks like over extruding. But similar effect can appear with proper extruding (or not too much e... | 2016/06/29 | [
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1,460 | I homebuilt a delta 3D printer (like Kossel mini) with a Z probe near the hotend with manual deploy and RAMPS 1.4 board:
* I configured the Repetier firmware with the online tool;
* All my endstops (included the Z probe endstop) work in reverse mode, so I reversed the endstops triggering option;
* I enabled *Z-probing* and set the `BED_LEVELING_METHOD` to 1 (n\*n grid);
* I set `Z_PROBE_REPETITIONS` to 3, and;
* Finally I downloaded it and uploaded to my Mega 2560.
Then I tested it inside Repetier-Host and all seems to work well (homing, moving, extruding) except for the Autobed leveling method.
Specifically, it always starts measurement of **3 Points** (with 3 probe repetition each) even if I change the type of measurement.
It never does a **grid measurement** or a **2 points mirror** measurement.
I also tried to re-upload the firmware with `EEPROM_MODE` to 0 but didn't work.
Does anyone have the same issue, or can explain to me why this happens? | [
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"text": "Delta bed leveling has been dodgy in Repetier for a long time. There are a number of fixes occurring in the dev ... | 2016/06/30 | [
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1,465 | **Before the question, here is my setup;**
* Prusa i3 (with mainboard Mks Gen v1.2)
* Repetier as slicer
* Marlin source code
My main task is to convert my 3D printer into a chocolate printer.
I have replaced the filament extruder with a chocolate extruder. And it is there that my issue began. Because, the new extruder is stopping slightly off the y-axis when homing. It is going out of the standard 20x20 cm bed. The other X and Z axes are OK.
So, I have played with the `#defines` explained below, but I couldn't even make any single mm difference by homing. They are all ignored when the printer is homing. It goes and rests on the hardware end-stops and stops there eventually.
All I want 10 mm offset for Y axis.
**Started with this;**
```
// Travel limits after homing
#define X_MAX_POS 200
#define X_MIN_POS 0
#define Y_MAX_POS 190 <<<< (tested with 190 and 210)
#define Y_MIN_POS 0
#define Z_MAX_POS 200
#define Z_MIN_POS 0
```
**and this;**
```
// The position of the homing switches
#define MANUAL_HOME_POSITIONS // If defined, MANUAL_*_HOME_POS below will be used
//Manual homing switch locations:
// For deltabots this means top and center of the cartesian print volume.
#define MANUAL_X_HOME_POS 0
#define MANUAL_Y_HOME_POS 10 <<< (tested with 10 or -10)
#define MANUAL_Z_HOME_POS 0
```
I have also played with the **slicer tool (Repetier)** settings where homing related values are mentioned but no joy there as well.
Any input highly appreciated. | [
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1,471 | It's criminal how wasteful the Stratsys uPrint SE Plus is with it's 'one use' modelling bases. Is there a reliable way to re purpose them? I have tried ethanol and acetone, but not had any luck. | [
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"text": "People have done quite a bit of experimenting with reusing Mojo build plates over the years. The uPrint is likel... | 2016/07/03 | [
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1,477 | I would like to obtain a 3D model of my insoles. I tried to scan it with 123D catch but finding reference points is difficult because the insole is black.
How could I improve the scanning? I attach a photo of the insole to show its not easy shape.
I thought about placing a grid of white spots on the surface, but will it be enough?
Also, is it recommended to keep the camera still and rotate the object (I have a rotating stand) or should I move the camera? in the second case, the accuracy of the photos will be lower, while rotating 5-10 degrees the stand every time is extremely easy.
As background should I use a checkerboard or something else not repetitive?
I noticed that the insole has basically three different "levels", joined smoothly with each other. These "planes" are sloped the same way, so that if I change the pitch of the insole by about 10 degrees, they will be horizontal. Would it improve the accuracy?
Edit: the insole is perfectly new, newer worn before.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ziQp5.jpg)
**Update**
I dotted the insole with white paint (the white eraser paint used in office and school) and I took a series of photos with the insole in top of a tripod, laying on a flat white cardboard support. 55 photos in total at 3 different elevations (side, medium, high). I also did a test with fixed camera and rotating object.
Photoscan did not work well in general. Keeping the object fixed produces the best results, but poor.
123D Catch did a much better job! again with fixed object and moving camera. Still, treating the resulting mesh was difficult and the accuracy could be improved.
Autodesk Remake 2017 worked VERY well, as you can see in the attached screenshot, and it allows the editing of the mesh to remove useless parts of the model. I haven't tried yet to process the photos with the camera fixed and the rotating object. I did the processing locally (it's slow!) with maximum details and resolution.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/gKzja.jpg) | [
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1,480 | I've been looking into this, but:
1. I'm not certain how to configure my multimeter;
2. I don't know how to keep the voltage going, and;
3. I don't know how to keep the multimeter connected to the VMOT?
I'm told you're supposed to aim for about 1 A. | [
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"text": "Generally speaking voltage on stepstick output should be around 1V. \n\nTo imagine more or less what the current... | 2016/07/04 | [
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1,497 | I'm currently designing a very large and complicated model, because it's large and should be strong enough completely hollow I want to print it with no infill to save material.
However, there are some points in the model where there are indentations in the top shell.
The bottom of those indentations are lower then the surrounding shell (pretty mush the dictionary definition of indentation) and so they are printed earlier with nothing to connect to.
For example, in the image below from Cura's layer view you can see two round surfaces just hanging in mid air
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/d4Rrm.png)
Obviously this can't be printed.
What I'm currently doing is designing internal spaces inside the model where the internal space shell is holding the "detached" surfaces.
What I want is a mostly automatic process that will generate a support structure inside where needed or that will generate infill but only between the floating surface and the nearest solid shell below it.
Reorienting the model is not an option because a. it wouldn't fit on the build plate and b. even if it did it has a lot of internal parts with different orientations so it would just move the problem from one part of the model to another.
I usually use SketchUp for designing and Cura for slicing so I prefer something I can do in Cura - but since I strongly suspect this can't be done in Cura I'll accept answers that work with other tools | [
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"text": "I'm not really sure if i get you right but it seems like you gotta switch on support material. That's all. Corr... | 2016/07/11 | [
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1,503 | At the moment, I am thinking about print fans that cool the plastic when printing. I am not asking about the design of the fanducts, which might be a whole book on its own. I would like to know how to find out the best application of print cooling for a given PLA filament, - that is fan speeds and setup in a slicer of your choice (to learn what the different options are). | [
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"text": "I use side-wind to cool down model as simple as possible. It's just a 12cm in diam fan which is driven from ard... | 2016/07/12 | [
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1,505 | I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate? | [
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"text": "[Baud rate](https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/serial-communication/rules-of-serial) is the rate at which inf... | 2016/07/12 | [
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1,511 | I tried printing from an STL file on the *QIDI TECHNOLOGY 3DP-QDA16-01 Dual Extruder Desktop 3D Printer QIDI TECH I*. They recommend using the MakerBot software with the *Replicator(Dual)* profile. The 3D print that I tried is messed up.
The material used is **PLA**.
Could you help me determine the cause? The following pictures give more details:
(*All settings which are not shown are Makerware default settings*)
[1](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png) **The 3D model**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Abvj2m.png)
[2](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg) **The printed sample**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zmWnrm.jpg)
[3](https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png) **The Settings**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/viQoPm.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/l3b7om.png) | [
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"text": "Your print isn't cooling fast enough. With small, thin prints like this, PLA needs a fair bit of airflow to solid... | 2016/07/15 | [
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1,515 | Because of the weight of my Z-axis and the relative ease of its motion, when the Z-axis motor is powered down the bed has a tendency to slip and fall down.
Obviously leaving the motor powered solves this problem, but that is not ideal.
I am looking for some kind of solution that passively stops the Z-axis motor from slipping; some kind of brake or clutch. Ideally I'm looking for something that I can add onto my current motors and that I could print myself. Commercial solutions (preferably ones that could be replicated with a 3D printer) would also make valid answers. | [
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"text": "The simple way to do this is to use a self-locking screw pitch. Pretty much any single-start thread using a slid... | 2016/07/16 | [
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1,519 | My first and only 3D printer is a Printrbot Simple Metal, which has a hotend that doesn't expose any of its internal parts. Easy for beginners, I suppose: "The hotend is that tube that heats up the plastic and deposits it on the print bed."
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/7y1yy.jpg) [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SwwW1.jpg)
But I've been trying to learn more, and many hotends out there don't look quite as simple. My Printrbot hotend probably isn't as simple as it looks, either.
What are the parts that make up a hotend, and what do they do?
*(PS: This is a general question, not specifically about the two example hotends above.)* | [
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"text": "**picture on the left**\n\nThis hotend is made out of [PEEK plastics](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PEEK) (beig... | 2016/07/17 | [
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1,536 | I keep thinking it means that I can plug it directly into [my power supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) instead of running it though my RAMPs 1.4; is that correct?
Here is the link to it, [200\*200mm Square Silicone Heater Pad](http://www.robotdigg.com/product/209). | [
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"text": "\"Mains voltage\" is the alternating current provided by your wall outlets (eg 120v in USA). In order to use a m... | 2016/07/21 | [
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1,541 | My question is...
Is there a SIMPLE/easy way to load TPU without tearing my printer apart to insert a hose that probably wont work anyways. It keeps curling up by the cog. I have read a few topics in other places but I didn't like the answers. Hoping you all might have a simple fix. | [
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"text": "Loading TPU/TPE can be particularly challenging because many printer loading scripts run too fast for the soft f... | 2016/07/21 | [
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1,544 | I am trying to 3D print an iPhone case, however, I want it to print standing up. Is this possible to do?
I have a picture of the case in the link below.[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dUYr0.png) | [
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"text": "Yes this is possible. For an FDM/FFF printer, you'll need to print with supports. I might also recommend printing in PL... | 2016/07/22 | [
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1,547 | I'm trying to find a way of applying graphics to my ABS printed parts.
I need a robust method which can produce a decent amount of detail with true color and legible fine text .
I also was hoping to avoid the use of stickers and opt for something that's slightly more permanent.
I was wondering if there are ways in which a vinyl decal or other types of decal material could be pressed into the face of a plastic part and then thermally fuse the two layers together using heat transfer method?
Most of the surfaces I work with would be flat, but there are some parts that are slightly curved and it would be totally amazing if I could somehow apply graphics to those areas as well.
Thanks for any hints | [
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"text": "Industry has for years used a 'pad printer' to put images on complex shapes, like plastic or ceramic travel mugs, et... | 2016/07/23 | [
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1,560 | There was a contest to develop 3D printable files for the International Space Station's 3D printer. The winner got a 3D printer ... runners up got Fluke DVOM's and all entrants got a t-shirt.
ISS 3D Print Contest
They offer 3 materials: ABS, HDPE, and PEI+PC ... I'm not familiar with the last one. Anyone know?
If found this material on Matweb: [PEI+PC Alloy](http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=949ca0fa6b1742bea8e8d26ea2fd3d48t)
These links are thought to last a very long time. I hope many of you decide to upload a project into contest site and compete for the grand prize ... A sweet John Fluke DVOM. If nothing else a free awesome T-shirt. | [
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"text": "PEI - polyethermide is a \"common\" coating for heated print beds. PC is so many different things, but in this con... | 2016/07/26 | [
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1,577 | I have a prusa i3 and have been trying to calibrate it. I have been trying to upload the new steps per mm and I get to done uploading. However when I go into Repetier host and type M503 to get the printers settings it still shows the steps as 100 for the y axis, it needs to be 96.1810. I am using ramps 1.4 I think, with Adrunio mega 2560. If I am remembering this correctly isn't there something you have to do when uploading a new sketch like hold the rest button or something? | [
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"text": "[See here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbn1ckR86Z8) for why you *shouldn't* calibrate your X/Y-steps. The... | 2016/07/31 | [
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1,582 | I often have trouble with prints being especially difficult to remove from the build plate on my Micro3D printer. My wife suggested using a hair dryer on the underside of the plate. I was initially appalled at the idea, but now I think she may be on to something. Is this safe? Good idea? Bad idea? Heresay? | [
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"text": "That was a problem for me too. My M3d printer was getting stuck to the plate. However, I now print on painters tape... | 2016/08/02 | [
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1,588 | I just received my Wanhao Duplicator i3 PLUS. Everything prints and functions fine via SD card and the display but when connecting to my Mac computer the printer seems to restart.
* Baud Rate: 115200
* Serial Port: `/dev/tty.wchusbserial1420`
Any ideas what it could be? | [
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"text": "I don't know that printer. But Arduino has a feature that a USB connection causes a reset. The Idea is that this h... | 2016/08/03 | [
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2,592 | I was [advised](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1536/what-does-uses-mains-voltage-mean-on-this-200200mm-square-silicone-heater-pad) that it would be possible to use an AC SSR to wire up a Mains Based heat bed. Any idea how one would do this with a RAMPs 1.4 board; Also, what do I hook a heated bed of this sort into? | [
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"text": "A link to the bed you have/are buying would be very helpful. AC heated beds exist but are fairly uncom... | 2016/08/04 | [
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2,593 | [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Fpc5P.jpg)
By what process does the Prusa i3 determine it's home position?
I have a feeling that it works like this, but I'm not entirely sure about it:
1. If none of the end stops are activated; assume you are somewhere between Max-X, Max-Y, Max-Z and the point 0,0,0.
2. do
1. For axis in Axies
1. If axis endstop not signaling
1. subtract 100 steps from axis.
3. while endstops are not signaling, or if point 0,0,0 not reached; | [
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"text": "It works like you describe, but it does not move all axes at the same time. It first moves the X-axis, subtractin... | 2016/08/04 | [
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2,599 | Hello I have a Prusa I3 I am currently able to get press fit parts with my current settings. I am using Ramps 1.4 hardware and repetier software and cura as my slicer. I am printing with a .2 mm layer height right now but would like to get a better number such as .1 or .09. When I try to print with say .1mm layer height in the middle of the print the filament stops coming out of the nozzle. However I can still see the gear moving. I have check some sites that I have been using for troubleshooting but I haven't found anything that fixed the problem yet. How or what setting need to be changed in order to print with better resolution? | [
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"text": "There are no settings that you should need to change. Rather, it seems like you are suffering from another i... | 2016/08/05 | [
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2,607 | I own a delta 3D printer. The problem is that, at the beginning of a print the extruder outputs dirty filament. I want a clean filament flow at the start of my prints!
How can I make the hotend exit the print surface (glass plate) by 10mm, extrude the bad filament and go back to printing again? Can this be done with G-code?
My Z high is 190 mm and the glass plate diameter is 120 mm. I'm using Marlin + Ramps 1.4.
I'm using Repetier-Host and CuraEngine as Slicer, but I really would like a G-code that can work on multiple environments like Cura and Repetier. I just want to add it to the start G-code and print! | [
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"text": "A lot of slicers will have a Wipe option. Here are some examples:\n\n* See [Unofficial Simplify3D Documentation](... | 2016/08/06 | [
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2,612 | I am looking to print an enclosure, which will have a PCB inside with some LED indicators. I was wondering if it is possible to 3D print the enclosure such that the following look can be achieved? What material and technique?
When LEDs are off, it looks something like this:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/eUN2v.jpg)
WHen the LED turns on, it looks like this (illuminated symbols):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X9GuC.jpg) | [
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"text": "Achieving this with 3D printing would be quite difficult, and you might be better served by creating this ef... | 2016/08/07 | [
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2,621 | Related to an issue I had in [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/1205/increased-issues-with-filament-grinding), where the PTFE tube feeding my filament to the metal tip of the extruder clogged and became discolored: what are the advantages and disadvantages of changing out my extruder (Mk10 on a FlashForge Creator X) for an all-metal solution like the one advertised [here (by Micro-Swiss)](https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/micro-swiss-mk10-all-metal-hotend-kit).
I understand that the conversion would allow me to print higher-temperature materials (like nylon), but I'm also trying to figure out the trade-offs with regard to printing PLA/ABS parts. | [
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"text": "In general, metal extruder without PTFE feeding is useful when printing with materials that require high temperat... | 2016/08/09 | [
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2,624 | I'm having a really hard time printing on my aluminum heated bed... Cleaning it just results in it being scratched (trying to scrape dried hairspray/glue/etc off) and I don't think it is particularly flat either.
I was thinking of stopping by the dollar store on my way home and getting several picture frames and using the glass from them as interchangeable glass beds - this would also make it easier to take them off the printer to clean without needing to re-level the bed every time as the aluminum base would stay-put.
Do you guys think the quality of it would be okay to print on? (withstand the heat, be flat enough, etc) I'm planning to coat it in purple-glue-stick as I have heard that works well for adhesion purposes.
For reference: Printing PLA, Prusia i3 printer. | [
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"text": "Picture frame glass (generally float glass) will work well enough, but count on it eventually cracking/getti... | 2016/08/10 | [
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2,637 | When using a heated bed with your printer, I have seen claims of running temperatures of 90c throughout the print.
That seems like a fairly high power use to keep a large slab of, say, aluminium at 90c for long print times (ie multiple hours).
Is there a common 'sweet spot' for operating temperature?
Does it depend on material?
Is a heated bed required? | [
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"text": "Googling \"what temperature for different filaments\" gives a few good links, but the top link looks golden.\n\n<http... | 2016/08/12 | [
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2,643 | I have a new German RepRap NEO 3D printer, and when I try heating the Extruder to 215°C with Repetier-Host Mac 1.0.1, it always stops at 130°C - does anybody have an idea what could be the reason? | [
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"text": "A few possiblitites.\n\nYou wire is too small. If your wire is HOT that is a fire hazard.\n\nYour thermistor is b... | 2016/08/13 | [
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2,644 | I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer.
Also, the infill is lifting (as in photo).
Any advise?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/mXJCl.jpg) | [
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"text": "I found a solution that works for me.\n\nI have increased my first layer extrusion width to 250 %, reduced the print... | 2016/08/14 | [
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2,654 | I have a object to print for which I want the base to be printed very rapidly because it's just a cube but as the print reached around 70 % a complex circular structure needs to be printed at a slower speed. Is there any way I could control the speed at the given percentage of job done?
I want the cube to be printed at 50 mm/s and the complex circular structure at 40 mm/s.
Printer Type - FDM | [
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"text": "[Simplify3D](https://www.simplify3d.com/) has the ability to create more than one process, to be applied to the mod... | 2016/08/18 | [
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2,658 | I'm currently attempting to make a repstrap using paper printed parts, like this guy : <http://www.mariolukas.de/2012/05/repstrap-3d-drucker-aus-computerschrott-teil-1/>
I replaced the DC motor in a paper printer carriage assembly
with a stepper motor (NEMA17). But there was not enough space to fit the axis of the nema 17 at the exact spot of the older DC motor axis, in short, the axis are not in the same place. The question is : if the axis is not in the exact same spot, will it affect the movement of the carriage or not at all ?[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8A21q.png)
I supposed it would but i'm not sure since the carriage is limited in movement by the rails and that we still move the belt around. | [
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"text": "Axis should definitely be at proper position. Otherwise you will get at least 2 issues.\n\n1. Carriage will be p... | 2016/08/19 | [
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2,665 | My goal is to 3D print a 5 liter miniature barrel with a side stand, similar to [this wooden one on Amazon](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B009K5DSJG). I want it to have a removable top so that a boxed wine bladder may be put inside, and there should be a hole on the top as well so that the spigot may stick out and be used. I have no experience with 3D modeling or printing, but I have access to a public 3D printer at my local library. I know you can print parts individually (ex. curved wood-colored sides with staves and holes to interlock and make up the body of the barrel, the metal-colored hoops to go around the barrel). I don't know what software to use, though. I was thinking of starting to learn Blender? Would that be effective for this project? | [
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2,670 | This came up in one of my groups today. That we could not color bend, or mix 3d printing filaments. I have researched but I am not finding anything talking about Plastic mixing in an extruder.
Why is it that we cannot take say a Doimund hotend, or a hotend with 5+ inputs, and mix any color we want? (assuming all the same type, ABSm, PLA). I think it would be interesting to at the least get a gradient effect on prints.
The best I have seen is natural plastic and a marker system. Or a powder / advanced / out of hobbyist price range process that sprays ink. The only Color Bending I know of is with Recycled plastic that uses multi color. Not quite what I am looking for.
Thanks! | [
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"text": "I just started with google and phrase \"3d printing color mixing\" and on the first place (in fact first two wer... | 2016/08/23 | [
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2,673 | The turntable support part in my microwave has broken. It is a three armed part, with small wheels at the end of each arm.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qza6i.jpg)
I'm confident I could print a replacement, and reuse the existing wheels (since they can be removed).
The heat of the food would be unlikely to conduct through to the PLA, but I'm concerned that it might get heated up by the microwave radiation. I can't find any clear information online about whether PLA absorbs microwaves, or if it is in any other way unsuitable for this.
Will this be a disaster, or should I give it a go? | [
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"text": "I would say PLA itself should not be heated up by microwave. It's because microwave oven creates oscilations whi... | 2016/08/23 | [
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2,676 | For a while now, I have been thinking about designing things such as small bedside tables, game/dvd/bluray racks for 3d printing. I've always thought that making them modular would be a good way to go about doing this as well.
Modular design would help to create an end result that is vastly larger than the print volume of my 3d printer. I might even be able to recycle models for use in other projects. However, I'm not sure of what I need to think about if I decide to go ahead with these ideas I have floating around in my head.
I'm assuming that certain joints (dovetail, etc), tolerances for different types of plastic due to shrinkage, and print settings (% infill, in particular) would be important to have thought about and evaluated to some extent, but I'm not sure about what else I might be missing.
So my question is to anyone who has designed anything to be modularly printed. Have you really had to think carefully about the engineering side of the print? Or am I simply overthinking this? Should I just design what I want and give it reasonable infill, walls and whatnot, and just go for a trial and error approach? I'm sure there is a method to this madness, but is a concrete understanding of this type of engineering absolutely paramount when it comes to this sort of stuff?
---
EDIT: Although I've marked darth pixel's answer as accepted, I'm still going to follow JKEngineer's advise and check out that book as well since I feel as though proper engineering techniques alongside a good mentality towards how I would tackle the problem (as outlined in darth pixel's answer) would prove to yield better results in the long run. | [
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"text": "All printers are designed with an idea of [WYSIWYG](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WYSIWYG) for sure. Depending o... | 2016/08/23 | [
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2,689 | I have printed a MPCNC machine. It has a print area of about 30" x 30" and up to 11" tall. (yes, those numbers are correct).
I found a perfect piece of glass at a garage sale for $5.00 to use as my print bed.
My problem now is how to heat the glass? I was wondering if there is some sort of tape that would perhaps mimic what is on the rear window of a car, but I couldn't find it anywhere.
Any ideas or links to something that can get me some progress on my search would be greatly appreciated. | [
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"text": "Your best option may be to seek out a silicone rubber heating mat, using those terms for your web search. A quick s... | 2016/08/26 | [
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2,701 | I have a Mini Kossel and I am going through calibration.
I can home carriages and find the bed with paper-test getting some Z value with `M114`. Then I run the effector almost full height **up and then down** - and now **Z value for the bed is greater**!
If I repeat the process I get greater and greater values in paper-test. It seems that travel per step is different moving in different directions.
How can I fix that? I am using RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin firmware.
UPDATE:
Z values near bed after subsequent runs of five passes of `G1 X100 G1 X10`
```
100% speed: 0.1 0.3 0.5 0.7 1.0
20% speed: 0.1 0.4 0.9 1.4 4.6 6.6
300% speed: 0.0 0.7 1.0 1.3
``` | [
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"text": "According to discussions in comments, I'm pretty sure the problem lies in too low current. \n\nPlease review [t... | 2016/08/29 | [
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2,708 | I'm looking for a 3D printer for applications in the dental field, for printing digital dental models (not for itra-oral use parts).
Resolution and finish are the main requirements that we consider necessary.
Any suggestion? | [
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"text": "If resolution is your upmost concern then resin 3d printers are the way to go. They use a liquid resin that does not... | 2016/08/30 | [
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2,709 | I'm a beginner. I've a Printrbot Play with a heated bed add-on. I'm using it exclusively with PLA.
It worked great initially, but then I took the nozzle out and put it back in, and the Z calibration was lost (and I didn't know the calibration was a thing). As a result, I started having issues with the piece warping up and not sticking to the bed in the corners and around the edge, when the piece was large and flat.
I've installed the heated bed. I used Kapton tape. All these made it perhaps a little better.
Finally I started tweaking the Z axis calibration (the fine adjustment for the initial distance between nozzle and bed) and that made it perfect. No warping anymore.
But now I have the opposite problem. When printing pieces with large flat surfaces that are siting flush with the bed, it's next to impossible to tear it off at the end.
I went back to using plain blue tape instead of Kapton, but it's still sticking too well to the bottom of the piece. I tried to pry it off by pushing a knife under the piece, but that has put a few scratches on the bed. Obviously I don't want to continue doing that.
What can I do? How to prevent warping, while also making sure the piece does not stick too hard to whatever is underneath?
---
**EDIT:** The accepted answer was very good and I don't want to mess with it by adding my own "answer". So here it is:
I ended up adding a glass plate on top of the bed, with a heat conductive layer between bed and plate (it's a funny looking, rubbery, chewing-gum-y material that conducts heat). Now I just apply glue stick on the glass and print. Works great. Large pieces come off on their own sometimes if I let them cool down to 30 C or lower.
I had some issues with the Z calibration sensor due to the plate, eventually got solved, but that would take too long to explain here. | [
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"text": "I have only experienced PLA \"super sticking\" if the print bed is allowed to cool too much. I would suggest runni... | 2016/08/30 | [
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2,715 | I have a LARGE piece of glass (36"x26") that I will soon be printing on using my newly build MPCNC machine. It is capable of printing about 34"x34"x10".
Anyway, I have had GREAT success printing on heated glass that is sprayed lightly with hairspray using PLA and being able to EASILY remove my prints after the glass has cooled. I attribute this to the slight expansion and contraction that occurs when glass is heated and cooled. This would weaken the cohesion of the PLA print to the glass.
I have another posting where I asked how to heat this LARGE glass bed. However, there weren't any feasable (inexpensive and easy) solutions to heat the glass. So, now with cold glass, what are some good strategies for removing large 3d printed objects without breaking them or the glass? | [
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"text": "Because you will be printing on unheated glass, you will be using some form of adhesive material. If you use an of... | 2016/08/31 | [
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2,729 | I am designing an part for my car. It is a panel for the rear door. I want to add it some cases for tools, but before going on, could you tell me:
It is a large flat panel, around 100cm by 35cm.
**Is it going to be suitable for printing in that ABS material? Is it too big?**
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/wqGB7.jpg) | [
{
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"text": "It is a huge part that would not fit in most 3D printers, do you have access to a 3D printer this big? Even if it d... | 2016/09/03 | [
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2,733 | I was wondering if anyone could give me tips for designing a 3d printable structure that can "pinch" down onto a hockey puck shaped piece and hold it tightly.
I'd like for the structure to normally want to "pinch" two edges together, but I can pry/force them open when I shove the hockey puck into it. Once I let go, the two ends are now holding the puck fairly tightly.
My first thought was something like a potato chip bag clip, but that would require a couple pieces and a spring.
Is there a way to do something like this with one solid piece? | [
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"text": "Here are first 3 the most simplified and generalized options you have:\n\n[![enter image description here](http... | 2016/09/04 | [
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2,736 | Good morning everyone,
I am developing a consulting job in a clinic of dental CT scans.
This work involves the development of administrative software, and preparing a routine for conversion of tomographic files in DICOM format to STL format. The files in STL format will be used for both visualization and analysis of 3D models, such as printing in 3D printers.
Our problem is just the conversion DICOM to STL.
Has anyone come across this kind of situation? We did not find any documentation or tool for this purpose in our searches and we are really with a gande urgency in the solution.
Advance grateful for any assistance. | [
{
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"text": "there is a nice software to do it, a brazilian one, called Invesalius (<http://svn.softwarepublico.gov.br/trac/i... | 2016/09/05 | [
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2,737 | I am trying to print a model I designed in Blender on Shapeways.
The object has a hole in it:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iCaGP.png)
But when I upload it to Shapeways as a STL file, fixed the sizes, but the hole is filled up in the preview window for the object in Shapeways:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6P9iO.png)
What could cause this? Will the model print properly?
(I cannot share the model here). | [
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"text": "Double-check that your model is solid (i.e. watertight). Holes in the mesh, or (as other's mentioned in the co... | 2016/09/05 | [
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2,741 | I'm writing this question here hoping someone will be able to help me with the fixing process that I'm currently involved in!
Last week during a printing session my Ultimaker original unexpectedly stop working. The problem was on the extruder step motor which push the filament from the back and literally is not moving anymore! The first thing I have done was to check if the motor was burn or something similar. So I swap the extruder motor with the X-axis one and it then worked fine.
Then later the X-axis motor into the extruder connector and is not moving! so I decided to check the step driver and they seems to work all well. So the problem must be on the Arduino or on the motherboard! I bought new step driver a new step motor and new Arduino + motherboard, connected all up and nothing, still not working for the same reason! It is just the extruder motor that won't work anymore!
Do you guys have some idea or tips to find out what the problem can be or how can be fixed in alternative ways? Your help will be much appreciated and looking forward for some answers. | [
{
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"text": "Your title says \"x-axis\" but your description leads me to think that your extruder is the part that's not ... | 2016/09/08 | [
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2,772 | I have used cyanoacrylate glue aka superglue to bond PLA. I have created several electronics enclosures. (Definitely the most time-consuming part of the project.)
Now my question is which debonder/solvent can I use to separate the pieces again without destroying the PLA parts?
Wikipedia proposes the following:
* nitromethane
* dimethyl sulfoxide,
* methylene chloride,
* gamma-Butyrolactone. | [
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"text": "**Acetone**\n\nAcetone will dissolve cynoacrylate (superglue) and should weaken it enough to be able to separate t... | 2016/09/14 | [
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2,775 | I'm looking for a strong filament that can handle a large tension load and no bending deformation when a perpendicular force is applied to it. Any suggestions? | [
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"text": "As far as I know, Nylon filaments are among the strongest. I'd look at the technical specs of [Taulman3D's Fil... | 2016/09/14 | [
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2,776 | My [12V DC 30A Power Supply 360W Power Supply](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B007KG0ZYI) is really cheap, and it's worked well for setting up the motors; but now that I'm on to the heated bed, which uses considerably more Ampage than that of just the motors, I'll confess, I'm getting frightened to continue using it; if the summer was a bit longer, maybe it wouldn't bother me, but we're getting into the cold months, and now I'm afraid of ending up using too much ampage just trying to heat the bed in the winter months...(and I don't mean my bed). Is there anything I should look out for in terms of using the either the cheap power supply I already have, or are there certain specs on a new not-so-cheap power supply that I ought to be using instead? | [
{
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"text": "A MK2 heatbed will draw around 12A. The motors and hotend draw only very little power (around 2A, 5A peak), s... | 2016/09/15 | [
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2,789 | I have an M3D Micro 3D printer that printed fine for a couple of weeks and then was plagued with issues afterward. I've done the fixes from the forum to get proper heating and cooling of the nozzle (I've added aluminum foil around the nozzle to make sure the hotend is fit snug against the nozzle and I've added an external fan, powered externally, to compensate for heat creep).
This works very well for short prints and it usually finishes successfully. When I do a longer print it always stops midway and usually at the same exact point.
I tried printing at 200 °C with black PLA and then again at 215 °C with the same filament and it stops at the same exact point. I also tried M3D brand white filament. I am using CURA slicer with Octoprint GCODE sender and M3D Fio.
I know it is not clogged because if I stop the print and press extrude without letting it cool down, it extrudes fine.
What is causing my printer to stop printing? | [
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"text": "Placing this suggestion as an answer, because all information appears to point to the slicer software and/or the o... | 2016/09/17 | [
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2,790 | I've built the mechanics of my 3D printer myself, because I need to print parts that are really huge, (and for budget reasons). **So, I already have the 3D movement functionality.**
But what I need now, is the printing mechanism itself. I've been reading a lot, but it became clear to me that things are more complicated than I thought.
Let's skip mechanics and software, I'm just interested in how the print head works. Can somebody explain me that?
To be honest, I was so naive that I thought that I just had to buy one part with one data wire (print/noprint) and the 5 V/GND wires. But it came to my intension that things are way more complicated.
For example, these RepRap printers have some kind of air tube attached to the print head. I'm not sure what that's all about, is it cooling?
Perhaps I'm always reading the wrong manuals (i.e. the more advanced ones). Can somebody enlighten me or point me to a good starting point? | [
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"text": "The first point to start would be the RepRap wiki entry for [extruders](http://reprap.org/wiki/Category:Extruders):\n\... | 2016/09/17 | [
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2,805 | I recently finished building my first printer. The only problem that I'm having is that the hotend is not getting hot enough to start printing with PLA (180 to 230 degrees celsius), the hotend getting hotter stops at 170 degrees. Please help I've been stuck on this problem for days. Thanks in advance. | [
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"text": "Usually, this kind of problem is due to an issue with the control loop of the temperature. You can try to do ... | 2016/09/20 | [
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2,809 | I have built a RepRap Prusa i2 a while back. It worked for a while, but then I moved the printer from place to place and after a while I noticed that the printer's bed is not heating anymore. The thermistor shows the temperature (room temperature), but the bed is not heating.
The wires are connected and the heated bed has a resistance.
Did anyone else confronted with this? Thanks! | [
{
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"text": "It's probably a fuse or the MOSFET fried?\nTry checking for continuity on the fuse and voltage on the MOSFET."
}... | 2016/09/21 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2809",
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2,810 | So, I'm having this problem where almost anything I print with a section(s) that is not directly connected to something below it breaks when I try to pull the small filaments meant to hold it up during printing off. For example, I 3D-printed a Rayquaza([this one](https://www.myminifactory.com/object/rayquaza-23624)) from Pokemon for my little brother, and as I was carefully pulling the filament from under the mouth, the whole head just snapped off. Does someone have a recommendation as to a way to get the small filament off without breaking the object? Would a solution just be to print it bigger and see if it holds up better, or is there something else I can do? Thanks. | [
{
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"text": "The small filaments you remove that hold the parts up are called supports. The one model I located on Thingiverse c... | 2016/09/21 | [
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2,815 | On their website they say the following
```
0.25 mm nozzle: 150 to 60 micron
0.40 mm nozzle: 200 to 20 micron
0.60 mm nozzle: 400 to 20 micron
0.80 mm nozzle: 600 to 20 micron
```
That confuses me. Why can I go down to 20 micron with the 0.40, 0.60 and 0.80 nozzle but only down to 60 micron with the much smaller 0.25 nozzle? Is that a typo and should say 6 micron? | [
{
"answer_id": 2816,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
"author_id": 26,
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"text": "You need a certain minimum flow rate to achieve consistent extrusion. Flow rate is the product of print spee... | 2016/09/24 | [
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2,822 | My wife wants me to use an FFM 3d printer to make custom stamps for her to use on paper (scrap books, letters, etc.). She is convinced, however, that they will be too rigid to make good stamps. A quick google search showed ones made from [PLA](https://3dprint.com/110918/3d-printed-stamp-collection/) and [ABS](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3669). Logically, though, a TPU or similar would address her concerns. A good quality stamp needs to hold ink and make good, even contact with the paper. It would probably need to be able to be sanded or smoothed in some way.
I am supposed to receive my printer next week or so and am trying to get some filaments, STL files, and accessories I will need ready in advance so I can rapidly learn how to use it. | [
{
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"text": "Recently I've experimented with printing some [Nylon 618 filament](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00TOOB... | 2016/09/29 | [
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2,823 | I know I should use different nozzles for filaments that use vastly different temperatures but what about filament types that use similar temperatures?
For example, PLA and PLA composites like ColorFabb Woodfill filament. Should I use a separate nozzle for that? | [
{
"answer_id": 2824,
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"text": "There is absolutely no reason to use different nozzles, *not even if filaments do require different temperatu... | 2016/09/29 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2823",
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2,826 | I have a weird problem with my old 3D printer, it is a Prusa/Mendel type.
When I print a 20 mm cube, X and Y are correct, Z is resulting 16 to 17 mm.
I have checked the correctness of the movement on Z using the manual controls and there are no issues.
I played a bit with the layer thickness, I have a 0.4 mm nozzle, setting the layer height to 0.12 mm (normally is on 0.16 mm) but no changes in the result.
I am printing PLA on a cold bed at 180 °C without any other particular defect.
I would appreciate some direction on how to solve such problem. | [
{
"answer_id": 2828,
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"text": "You should check that the steps per mm for your Z-axis are set correctly. This depends on the pitch of the l... | 2016/09/30 | [
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2,832 | I am wondering if making an hermetic box is feasible using 3D printer. The box would be a cube with a front face removable, with screw and sealing joint to close it.
I searched for different materials, however, none talks about hermiticity. (However, I found a product that seems to improve water resistance of 3D printed items [here](http://www.nanovia-technologies.com/...mperm-f10-ft-tds.pdf), which might be a starting point)
Does anyone have experienced to make hermetic things ? I am specially interested in carbon fiber reinforced materials. | [
{
"answer_id": 2834,
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"text": "I believe this can be achieved using o-rings. That's what they use for scuba diving lights. The component doesn't n... | 2016/10/03 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2832",
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2,833 | I'm trying to print with Laybrick and for the most part it is going. The problem lies with the top layer and gaps appearing. I've tried increasing the number of top layers but the gaps still appear. Any ideas what else I can try?
I'm using Simplify3d.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Y05dR.jpg) | [
{
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"text": "When using Simplify3D, you may try referring to their awesome troubleshooting guide: <https://www.simplify3d.com/... | 2016/10/03 | [
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2,843 | I've a friend who is expecting. There are several adorable weapon themed rattles on thingiverse. I am, however, concerned about safety associated with such a product in the hands of a baby who will gnaw on it. To me the safety concerns here are much larger than for most food handling applications.
What steps should be taken to ensure such a print is safe for use?
This includes: filament selection, pea material selection, wall thickness, smoothing, construction, etc.
My current thoughts are as follows: "food grade PLA", dried peas, sanding, and single piece construction | [
{
"answer_id": 2860,
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"text": "You're on the right track. Since you asked for \"steps\" here you go:\n\n**Step 1. Choose a safe material:** ... | 2016/10/05 | [
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2,845 | I 3d-printed a key.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/8sfuT.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/XoGY3.jpg)
When I put it in the lock the pins move but, when I go to turn it the key rips and the lock doesn't turn. I compared it to the real key and it's identical. Is there something I can do to make it work and not rip? Is there some filament that I can print it out of? I used ABS. | [
{
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"text": "Which direction are the layers being printed? If the layers are printing top to bottom (in relation to your pictu... | 2016/10/05 | [
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