qid int64 1 2.78M | question stringlengths 2 66.6k | answers list | date stringlengths 10 10 | metadata list |
|---|---|---|---|---|
2,854 | On my Reprap-like 3D printer, I routed all the wires to a spot near the base; for the motors, endstops, thermistors, etc, I plugged them all into a [DB25 breakout board](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B00V7S79BW), and that's working great.
For my Extruder (12v), and my heat bed (16v), I'm using a 4-pin molex connector -- like we used to use for old hard drives and such, and it's working, but it gets a bit hot, and my print bed is having trouble reaching temperatures that it didn't have trouble with before. -- None of the wiring gets hot at any other point, and none of the other connectors get hot. -- The only thing that gets hot is this one molex connector.
I believe the heat is caused by passing too much current through that molex connector. -- I'm curious to know what other connectors might be better suited to this task. Can you recommend something that's worked well for you, or others?
I prefer not to double or triple up this connector if it can be avoided, so that I can just have one physical connector to disconnect there, and so that I don't end up mixing them up. -- also, being able to easily disconnect it is important (it's hard to work on the reprap if I can't spin it around or turn it over, etc., that's why I'm using connectors for everything). | [
{
"answer_id": 2856,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
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"text": "You might be able to use one of the connectors (Deans Ultra, EC3, XT-60/30, Bullet) that are normally used fo... | 2016/10/07 | [
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2,862 | This is something I've ignored for awhile, but it keeps cropping up, and occasionally, if the filament snags real good, it can mess up a great print half way through, etc.
Basically I have my filament spools hanging on a PVC pipe mounted directly above the printer, and the printer just sucks it in from the spool, but occasionally it becomes knotted at the spool, or becomes otherwise tangled.
I'm thinking even if I completely unwrapped and rewrapped all of my spools so there was no trace of a tangle, what's to stop it from happening again? -- What's a good strategy for managing this kind of issue?
**Edit:** From some of the answers below, it seems that maybe the travel of my X carriage back and forth could be why my spools keep getting tangled. -- It looks like many people have their spools at about 90 degrees from mine (rotated relative to the Z axis of the printer), so that the travel of the X carriage won't have that affect. -- Also guides, etc are probably a good idea.
Here's my current setup for reference (filament removed):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/lsCOe.jpg) | [
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"answer_id": 2863,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
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"text": "Always keep track of the loose end of the filament. It's either in your extruder, or fixed to the spool (eit... | 2016/10/08 | [
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2,872 | What materials, available as filaments for use in FDM printing, are known to be the most physically and chemically inert? In particular, stability (not necessarily simultaneously) in the presence of the following should be assumed:
* pH 0-14
* oxidizing agents (ozone, permanganates, dichromates, acidic hydrogen
peroxide)
* organic solvents (particularly acetone, methanol, toluene, formamide)
* temperature up to 160 degrees Celsius
* pressures between ~10^-7 torr and ~2 bar
* oxygen or argon plasma | [
{
"answer_id": 2876,
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"author_id": 4506,
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"text": "PEEK, a plastic known for its superior chemical and physical resilience (<http://www.zeusinc.com/materials/peek/che... | 2016/10/10 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2872",
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2,880 | I'm looking for any idea of what could cause this problem. I'm printing (1.75mm PLA @ 220C) a 14cm x 14cm box, sliced with Simplify3D. Relevant settings are 3 bottom layers, 3 top layers, 3 outline/perimeter shells, and 15% orthagonal infill every other layer.
The first 3 layers print fine. Here's the first (bottom) layer after removing the print and turning it over:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/S45eF.jpg)
The infill (layers 4-10) also prints beautifully (see left side of photo below).
But the moment it starts printing the next layer (layer 11, the top layer of the bottom of the box), which should be solid fill exactly like layers 1-3, it starts underextruding and generally looking like crap:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/bPScE.jpg)
The first time this happened, I figured the nozzle got clogged or the extruder gear started slipping. This is not the freshest PLA, so maybe it was a PLA quality problem. But the same thing happened at the same layer when I tried it again. And again. And again. As soon as I cancel the print I can have it extrude 5cm of filament and it's fine, no clogs...and if I immediately start another print it again perfectly prints layers 1-10. So it doesn't seem to be the extruder, the nozzle, or PLA quality. I can't imagine the "stress" of laying 7 layers of infill could screw up the next layer...
I just can't figure out how layers 2 and 3 could be basically perfect, but layer 11 is consistently a disaster, when they should be almost the exact same gcode (only a mm apart). I looked at the gcode and it's basically identical for layers 3 and 11, including same feedrate (G1 F2250).
This is on a DeltaMaker printer with a new E3D Lite6 hot end. Can add more details if needed, but basically I'm just looking for an idea of what could cause this.
Update: Just tried a different roll of PLA and got the same results. | [
{
"answer_id": 2881,
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"text": "I doubt this is a printer or filament issue. Rather, I suspect it might be related to how your slicer handles *... | 2016/10/12 | [
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2,884 | I am new to 3D printing. I have just put together my own 3D printer with some help.
I was advised I shouldn't print directly onto the aluminium plate - I assume it's aluminium.
1. The manufacturer did give me a piece of matrix board (i.e. no cooper at all) to print on. Will this work well?
2. If glass is better, does it have to cover the entire bed? My bed is 275 mm deep by 220 mm wide. I'm struggling to find glass for it that will come within the next few days. The only custom cut was on eBay and it's going to take over a week to arrive. | [
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"answer_id": 2885,
"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
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"text": "Printing on glass is very common because it is very flat and leaves a very smooth finish on the bottom of pr... | 2016/10/12 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2884",
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2,892 | I have a QIDI Tech 1. It has a heated bed, and a cooling fan attachment. Whenever I print without a raft, the first inch or two of material laid down does not adhere to the bed, but the rest of the first layer is flawless.
I have tried speeding up and slowing down the first layer walls, but the problem remains. It also seemed to get a little worse when slower. I also tried not turning on the cooling fan for a bit to see if maybe the material was cooling too quickly, but that had zero effect on it.
I'd like to avoid using tape and other methods since the rest of the print is perfect, and the bed already has a material on it to aid adhesion.
What else can I try to prevent the dragging for the start of the print? | [
{
"answer_id": 2894,
"author": "fred_dot_u",
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"text": "I've had this problem in the past with a Flux Delta printer. The first attempt to resolve it was to always use a br... | 2016/10/14 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2892",
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2,904 | There is this great hotend called a [diamond hotend](http://reprap.org/wiki/Diamond_Hotend#Benefits_of_this_design), which can be used to print in 3 colors and mix them into hundreds? of colors. This can for example be used with Red, Green and Blue filament to mix a RGB palette. They don't have to be these colors, but I believe RGB would give the maximum range of colors when constrained to 3.
However true RGB in physical printing would use separate colored [voxels](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voxel) to create the appearance of a color, just like monitors display colors. As far as I know only HP Jet Fusion 3D printer uses this process, but it uses a process vastly different from normal diy 3D FDM printers.
CMYK is mixed physically like you would mix watercolors together to make new colors. It is used for printing on paper by **all** laserjet and inkjet printers (and in printing presses).
So that means even the 3 input diamond hotend is actually mixed like CMYK. Repetier firmware v92.9 has this built in with support up to 16 inputs for a nozzle, but Marlin firmware v1.0.x only supports 4 inputs per nozzle at this time.
Using RGB for the 3 inputs of a hotend, means the printing color palette lacks White and also it seems that CMYK would give a bigger range of colors. That brings our tally to 4 inputs. It still needs a white filament to print white, so that means 5 inputs. And while we are at it, probably a 6th input would be useful: like for printing black infill (to save using CMYK to mix into black) or for using transparent filament or elastic filament.
So why isn't there a nozzle with 5-6 inputs already? Could it be done? Are there such hotends already?
P.S These are just theoretical assumptions. I just discovered 3D printing and I am in the planning phase of building my first 3D printer, so I am a total n00b in this. Please correct any assumptions I got wrong. | [
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"answer_id": 2908,
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"text": "You may be a bit misled here. First of all, you do **not** want \"RGB\" , as those are additive colors such a... | 2016/10/17 | [
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2,909 | If the hot-end is at ~0 on the Z axis and I go to level it, as it approaches X = 0 it begins scraping along the bed, then when moving back to probe the center of the bed (after homing X to 0) it will scrape the bed again.
I want to add a glass plate but am worried this aggressive homing will smash the glass. How can I fix it? The printer auto-levels and runs Marlin. | [
{
"answer_id": 2912,
"author": "StarWind0",
"author_id": 2146,
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"text": "Sounds like you need a different sensor? You have a lot of issues from the sounds of it. Also no code so cannot c... | 2016/10/17 | [
"https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/2909",
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2,910 | In 4D printing technology or by means usage of Shape-memory alloy (non-metal, iron based, copper based or NiTi material) for 3D printing.
Is there any software simulation tool which I can use to simulate this material change behavior with respect to time? For example, when introducing a change in humidity or temperature.
Note: It would be best if the simulation tools targeted automotive parts (power train, cooling system, interior & exterior etc.). | [
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"text": "I am going to say that this probably is a whole dimension out of scope for this group ;-)\n\nThat said this new t... | 2016/10/17 | [
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2,916 | I have my nozzle close to the substrate that I am printing on, so that a piece of paper can just about slide underneath it freely, without catching.
Is this the right way to do it? | [
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"author": "Tom van der Zanden",
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"text": "Using a piece of paper won't guarantee you get exactly the \"correct\" height (because different papers have... | 2016/10/18 | [
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2,921 | What are the methods to auto eject parts (into a collection area/box/basket) in order for the 3D printer to continue printing?
For some reason this feature isn't common (yet?). Is there a hidden reason why?
Will using the print head to ram the part off the build plate into a basket nearby cause the print head to misalign (if using belts).
I am planning to use a Cartesian XY-Head type (like CoreXY) printer, where the build plate moves along the Z axis and XY axes are on the ceiling of the printer using belts to move the print head. | [
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"answer_id": 2922,
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"text": "From the standpoint of a hobbyist user with a mid-range machine, my answer is based on the model release from the ... | 2016/10/18 | [
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2,931 | I did calibrate the extruder to extrude exactly 50/100 mm and it is fine.
I have replaced the old (prehistorical) extruder that was giving me the problem with a new one.
The issue does not go away. It is severely under extruded.
The nozzle is a 0.4 mm, if I extrude manually the extrusion is nice and clean but when printing its a mess.
I have the following setting in Slic3:
* Layer height: 0,16
* First layer height: 0,16
* Filament diameter: 2,94
* Extruder temperature: 184°C
* Extrusion multiplier: 1
* Fill density: 15%
In Marlin I have the following setting for the extruder:
* Steps per unit: 1450 (I use micro steps)
* Default acceleration: 3000
* Default retract acceleration: 3000
* Default Ejerk: 5
How can I solve this problem?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2axcC.jpg)
This is a 20 mm cube I stopped after 15 layers!
Here is another 20 mm cube, the dimensions are perfect but is absolutely a mess.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/zZTMq.jpg) | [
{
"answer_id": 2932,
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"text": "Looks to me like you have your slicer set to 3mm filament when you're using 1.75mm filament. Confirm that your slic... | 2016/10/19 | [
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2,945 | I had a problem with my Z limit switch bracket falling just short of the bottom edge of the z stage.
I'm trying to make the bracket thicker so it's pushed more towards the left.
1) how do I measure the thickness of the bracket in the stl
2) HOw would I make it thicker if it is indeed too thin
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/U1iy4.gif)
It's might to be mounted standing up right.
I want to make it thicker x axis (if it's stood up) | [
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"text": "Looks to me like you have your slicer set to 3mm filament when you're using 1.75mm filament. Confirm that your slic... | 2016/10/21 | [
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2,950 | I am new to FDM RP. I've done a lot of work on ZCorp and Connex.
The question is can vectors curve drive an extrusion nozzle? Within a 3D volume I can generate curves that I want the print nozzle to follow. Is this possible or has it been done? If so, what software or is there a hack?
Another question is, can you print a part with no sidewall or containment boundary? | [
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"text": "Vectors do not drive the extrusion nozzles in current software. There are methods to take vectors and create a so... | 2016/10/22 | [
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2,952 | I have been using PLA filament for two years now and have had good prints. ABS on the other hand has not been so good, so my choice of filament is PLA.
I am getting ready to do a sign for the American Legion and the colors are black, blue, and red and are 0.8 mm thin. The black letters are 4" x 2.5", blue are 3" x 2" and the red are 7.75" x 5.5". I plan to treat them with UV protection spray and attach them with clear epoxy to white back lit Plexiglass.
As the letters are quite thin, my question is how well will this hold up in the weather? The sign hangs on a pole that points east & west so the letters will be facing north and south. The original was painted with spray paint and the red paint south side faded to the point you could hardly see it at all. The sign had been there for some time and was done at a professional sign company. | [
{
"answer_id": 2981,
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"text": "I printed a handle for a rather big rolling door in natural PLA (From Fabberparts) - no UV protection. It's on the we... | 2016/10/22 | [
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2,955 | Not quite sure what's happening here. I printed it as a single ball and had this effect. I thought it might be a cooling issue so I printed 4 at once but the issue still occurred. If I size the ball up, the problem reduces.
Note that the hole is supposed to be a cylinder.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/owZtw.jpg) | [
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"text": "It looks like it is trying to fill in what might be small gaps and is putting blobs down because the gaps to too ... | 2016/10/22 | [
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2,956 | I recently changed the printhead on my DeltaMaker from stock to an E3D Lite6, and am struggling to get back to my original quality, reliability, and repeatability. I thought I had gotten the recipe pretty close to dialed in and tried a bigger print last night. It turned out pretty good in most respects except for where vertical structures rise up from the horizontal surface (and a retraction/stringing issue that I didn't think was but perhaps could be related).
The screw hole mounts seem well-designed to me:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/4IgaU.png)
No 90 degree transitions - I would think this would be the least of my problems. But last night they had serious problems:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZXNsE.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/USaAE.jpg)
I haven't seen a problem like that before. Extrusion rate seems basically perfect - why does it look like it just stopped extruding around the perimeters?
I'm using PLA filament and Simplify3D 3.1.0 slicing. Settings:
* 0.35 mm nozzle, 0.40 mm extrusion width, 1.05 extrusion multiplier
* 0.15 mm layer height, 3 top, 3 bottom layers, 2 perimeter shells (maybe should try 3?)
* 30% infill, 60% outline overlap, 110% infill extrusion width
* Temp is 220°C (thermocouple wedged between nozzle and heater block reports about 206°C when thermistor says 220°C)
* Print speed is 2700 mm/min (45 mm/s)
Has anyone seen this issue before?
UPDATE:
Increasing outline overlap from 60% to 90% *almost* fixes the problem (at least visually if not structurally) - there's just one small hole at the base of each structure. (I stopped the print a few layers after the problem layers do ignore the tops.)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/YW5JW.jpg)
Going to 99% (Simplify3D's max) would probably get rid of those last holes but I have to think that maxing out S3D's outline overlap setting to just barely make the print work means I haven't found or addressed the true root cause... | [
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"text": "It looks like the first layers that are making the vertical transition do not have enough to stick to and are cur... | 2016/10/22 | [
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2,970 | When I design parts that must fit in each other, I usually keep in mind that prints are 0.2-0.5 mm wider than expected (depending on material) and I size the parts accordingly.
However, sometimes I design the whole part and then I slice it with planes or lines. In these cases I need to push/pull afterwards each contact surface manually by the same amount (0.2-0.5 mm) and that is a time consuming task. Another option is to use a cutter to remove the outer surface layer (basically I remove the rigged surface, making it smooth again) but it's not safe and even more time consuming.
How can I quickly generate said controlled gaps on the contact surfaces between two objects, but not on the rest of the object? to make it everywhere I could use shells, I guess, but I don't need that on the whole object. | [
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"text": "Unfortunately, 123D Design doesn't have such a feature.\n\nYou could select multiple surfaces and push/pull t... | 2016/10/24 | [
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2,972 | A lot of consumer desktop FDM printers come with a 0.4 mm nozzle. I'm looking to print fine details objects and I was considering trying to use a smaller size nozzle. But before I do so I would like to establish a list of downsides and unwanted consequences. | [
{
"answer_id": 2974,
"author": "tbm0115",
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"text": "Here are some things to look out for when switching to a smaller nozzle size:\n\n* **Curling** (out of the nozzle): Make... | 2016/10/24 | [
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2,979 | Are there any 3D printing services or something similar to 3D print or injection mold light reflectors?
I'm trying to find something that is similar to PCB printing that allows you to upload a 3D design of a reflector and they will produce this reflector and coat it with mirror surface. | [
{
"answer_id": 2980,
"author": "Carl Witthoft",
"author_id": 2191,
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"selected": false,
"text": "I would not recommend extrusion printers for this, because they are unlikely to produce a smooth enough surfa... | 2016/10/25 | [
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2,986 | Has anyone succeeded in installing the auto bed levelling on a Rumba board with Manmil firmware?
I have the last stable version [1.1.0 RC6](https://github.com/ManmilFirmware/Manmil/releases/tag/1.1.0-RC6).
I would appreciate some direction especially about:
* How and which pin to activate for the servo?
* How to test it with G-code before I move to settings of the probe sequence?
I have only installed the hardware for now (5 V servo) connected to Ext. 3 (EXP3):
* Pin 2 (+5V);
* Pin 4 (GND), and;
* Pin 6 (PWM),
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ETHOL.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ZGvw0.jpg)
but I cannot move it with the G-code command `M280 P0 S180`. I have no idea where to put my hands on firmware to get this going. However my ultimate goal is to set the ABL. | [
{
"answer_id": 3003,
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"text": "General note, I do not have this board so I cannot test these steps myself, read the documentation in configuratio... | 2016/10/26 | [
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2,993 | I'm a novice in 3D printing. I have a [Lulzbot Kittaz 3D printer](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aleph_Objects#LulzBot) with a hexagonal hot end of 0.35 mm. I have printed a test subject, and while I was printing I encountered this extrusion problem. I'm using ABS with 230 °C hot end temperature and 85 °C bed temperature. What kind of problem is this and how should I rectify it?
I took this photo when the printer printed the first layer:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/HtTv4.jpg) | [
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"text": "It looks like you are not extruding at the correct rate. I would check your slicer settings for nozzle and filament... | 2016/10/28 | [
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2,996 | I have an old Solidoodle 2 that I bought broken from a garage sale that I am converting to use RAMPS 1.4 with Marlin Firmware. All the motors work correctly, I am just having issues getting the endstops to work.
I am using a regular limit switch with NC going to the signal pin and the other to ground. I have this switch plugged into first header column for X-min. My endstop configuration is currently:
```
//===========================================================================
//============================== Endstop Settings ===========================
//===========================================================================
// @section homing
// Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe.
// Almost all printers will be using one per axis. Probes will use one or more of the
// extra connectors. Leave undefined any used for non-endstop and non-probe purposes.
#define USE_XMIN_PLUG true
#define USE_YMIN_PLUG true
#define USE_ZMIN_PLUG true
//#define USE_XMAX_PLUG false
//#define USE_YMAX_PLUG false
//#define USE_ZMAX_PLUG false
// coarse Endstop Settings
#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
#if DISABLED(ENDSTOPPULLUPS)
// fine endstop settings: Individual pullups. will be ignored if ENDSTOPPULLUPS is defined
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMAX
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_XMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_YMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN
//#define ENDSTOPPULLUP_ZMIN_PROBE
#endif
// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define X_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MAX_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
```
I have X-min enabled and inverted. When I send an M119 (endstop status code) I recieve:
```
Send: M119
Recv: Reporting endstop status
Recv: x_min: open
Recv: y_min: TRIGGERED
Recv: z_min: TRIGGERED
```
And then when I press down the X endstop with my hand I get:
```
Send: M119
Recv: Reporting endstop status
Recv: x_min: open
Recv: y_min: TRIGGERED
Recv: z_min: TRIGGERED
```
-No change. There is no mechanical failure with the switches, I've tested it with a continuity tester. I have even shorted the signal and ground pins on the Ramps board with a jumper wire and I still haven't seen any change.
Where is the fault at? | [
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"text": "try uncommenting the following lines to enable endstop detection on all pins for troubleshooting.\n\n```\n//#define U... | 2016/10/29 | [
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2,999 | I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.
I have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )
```
/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25} // (mm/sec)
```
I'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum.
If the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin\_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here? | [
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"text": "You have the lines to adjust the feed rate.\nThe first one (line 742) is relevant to the maximum feed rate XY while... | 2016/10/30 | [
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3,015 | I have been studying the differences between version 2.x and version 4 of the [P3Steel frames](https://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel) - in particular the AC08 bracket at the top of the frame which secures the top of the smooth bars and threaded rods of the Z axis on both the left and right sides. Here is the laser cut parts, for version 1.x, showing the part labelled as AC08:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2AN9z.jpg)
Version 1.x/2.x has the AC08 bracket with two holes, one for the threaded rod and one for the top of the smooth bar (from the [lasercut image](http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel_Vitamins#Lasercut_parts)):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6yZMo.jpg)
However, in version 4, the corresponding top Z axis bracket only has one hole for the smooth bar and just an indentation for the bearing which holds the top of the threaded rod (from [Twitter](https://twitter.com/AlvaroReyRdz/status/738406531943763968)):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/MZe2i.jpg)
Here is a close up of the [diagram](https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxUhvFbuwEAZNjA0dUhwNmFMd2c) from the [google docs repository](https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxUhvFbuwEAZfkJDUUE0bm1pTXNfMFRKemdUUzJNZ2xIT0xybFJLdmdyQV9MZGFpcG42UlE&authuser=0), listed in the [v4 section](http://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions) on the RepRap Wiki page for the P3Steel, which shows the bearing assembly just apparently "resting" against the indentation:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/dAVUM.png)
Here is the bracket shown with the bar and threaded rod (again, from [google docs](https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxUhvFbuwEAZQjkyTDM3SndMSTA/view)):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/X0fcG.png)
Does anyone know why the top of the threaded rod is not secured by a hole, as it was in version 1.x/2.x? It just does not look particularly well secured.
Under the list of version 4 changes, see [2. Frame versions](https://reprap.org/wiki/P3Steel#Frame_versions), it is mentioned:
>
> The extruder no longer hits the Z axis top bracket
>
>
>
Is this the reason why the change has been made? | [
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"text": "*This is mere supposition on my part, and not a definitive answer. This was posted prior to Alwuru's answer.*\n... | 2016/11/03 | [
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3,023 | I had my printer printing fine when using the stock trigger switch as I used it to print the green bracket you see in the picture.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6kxYw.jpg)
My problem now is when I do a print with the sensor, it moves to 0,0 position. However in this position the sensor is hanging off the bed hence there is nothing for it detect so it crashes into the bed.
As far as I can tell the nozzle is homing in the right place.
How do I tell Marlin the new minimum position it needs to be in so it doesn't crash into the bed? | [
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"text": "There are at least 2 options to address the problem that you have:\n\n1. Adjust end-stops so that in 0,0 position ... | 2016/11/07 | [
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3,027 | We all know (or should!) that the repeatability of common spring-arm limit switches is crappy at best. I'm looking to build & install one of the precision height adjusters for the Z-axis limit switch, and noticed a post on some forum suggesting removing the arm and triggering the switch button directly (e.g. with a screw end).
Has anyone tried this, and if so has the repeatability of Z-homing improved any?
Edit
----
Sorry -- this is a stock Prusa i3, which depends on physical contact between the vertically-moving subassembly and a microswitch mounted on the frame. | [
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"text": "No. Buy a better switch if it's an issue (see below).\n\nYou would need to have some very tight tolerances to hit... | 2016/11/08 | [
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3,031 | I finally manage to setup the ABL on my Prosi.
I run G28 to home all axes (for z I use the same probe used for ABL). Then
I run G29 E ( I use E because otherwise for some reason I have not understood yet, Z does not lift during probings) probing 4 points on the corners of the bed.
finally I get the map of the bed:
```
Bed Level Correction Matrix:
+0.999999 +0.000000 +0.001233
-0.000005 +0.999992 +0.003905
-0.001233 -0.003905 +0.999992
```
and after that, the print starts.
The first layer looks perfect however I have not seen Z moving a single step along the printing.
Any hint about what to check? Is the obtained map indicating that the bed is already too leveled to act on any compensation?
**UPDATE**
I printed a 180 mm diamater cylinder and the Z axis is not compensating the 1mm difference from edge to edge of the bed. | [
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"text": "I believe that the matrix is shown transposed from how it should be, but that doesn't affect the answer. The... | 2016/11/09 | [
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3,043 | When 3D-printing on an 20\*20cm, I've heard that the quality of the printings get worse if I fill out the board... Is it true? Should I keep it to small amounts at the time or doesn't it matter? | [
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"text": "No, that's not (entirely) true. There might be some loss of quality if you print multiple objects at once, be... | 2016/11/14 | [
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3,047 | I cleaned up my Flashforge Creator Dual tonight, and loaded some transparent ABS prepping for a print. The filament extruded fine, then started to wiggle, then became fine again. Hot end is 0.4 mm and was heated to 230C. What sort of steps should I take to troubleshoot the issue? Has anyone seen this before?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ffssj.jpg) | [
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3,050 | I've recently designed a non-self-aligning caged deep-groove ball bearing. Now I'd love to get one 3D printed.
However, assembling those can be tricky and I highly doubt it's even plausible to print them. All the components themselves can be printed without a problem, but I'm not sure whether I'll be able to put them all together in the end.
What are my options?
FDM printers are probably out, although it would be great if I can find a way to use those. Would an SLA or perhaps an SLS printer be able to pull it off?
Of course the thing still has to work (move) in the end.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/OuWFEm.jpg) | [
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3,065 | I've actually solved this, but I think its still a useful question which I don't think is easy to answer with existing questions.
As soon as I'd built my ANET-A8 (Prusa i3 DIY kit), I found I was having problems with the extruder crashing into the bed. Although I thought I'd adjusted the bed leveling OK, the calibration seemed to keep getting messed up.
I tracked this down to two factors. First, I was winding the extruder head up some distance before loading the filament and starting a print. Second, at roughly half-way up the axis, the right-hand thread seemed to be getting stuck (more often when moving up than down).
What wasn't clear (and not mentioned in the building instructions) was what might cause this problem. | [
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3,068 | [5AxisMaker](http://www.5axismaker.com/5axis/) has a 5 axis CNC/3D printer combo machine. I understand what the benefits of 5 axis are for CNC machines, but are there any benefits for 3D printing. In this [video](https://youtu.be/w8Fl8L4yk8M) they show the printer printing on an angle, but this could have been done with just linear layers.
Would there be any cases where a 5 axis printer would preform better than a 3 axis printer? | [
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3,070 | I want to skeletize the surface mesh. For that I need to export .STL from Solidworks and then convert that into .OFF file to be able to use it in CGAL library for skeletonzation. How can I do this? | [
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3,073 | We are custom building a Cartesian 3D printer to be used in a production 3D printing environment, with the following requirements:
* Intended Z resolution 0.13mm;
* Dual extruders (primary + support material);
* Four spools (two per material with y connector, perhaps add auto switch-over functionality later);
* Camera;
* Onboard 11" touchscreen for control & interaction, run by a Raspberry Pi 3;
* Custom board based on ATMega2560 to control the printer;
* Printer should gracefully handle conditions like "out of material", etc.
Question: How to select firmware?
Are there notable differences between the primary firmware options (Marlin/Repetier) for this setup? From the google code groups, I understand the Repetier has a much cleaner code base, and apparently gives smoother physical performance. Yet, from what I can gather, 95% of the community uses Marlin - is that correct?
Given that this printer will have the Pi3 to control "higher functions", is it worth considering a compact firmware like Teacup?
Edit 12/April/2017:
For others looking: After much review, Klipper was selected as the most forward firmware - all kinematic calculations are done on the host computer, instead of on the microprocessor, resulting is significantly faster/smoother stepper movement. | [
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3,075 | I've recently bought a 3D printer and waiting for it to be delivered I've given quite a lot of time to looking things up on Thingiverse. I see people create incredible models with gears, screws, lids and a lot of very cool and functional connectors (there are some project for boxes with an iris tipe lid that can be printed already assembled as a single model). I'd like to learn to do some of that as well. At the moment I have some proficiency with Blender where I can navigate the interface and sketch up some simple shaped model without any of the functional parts described above. My question therefore is:
Are there any tutorials that could help me create better models? If I need to I'm ready to learn to use a software other than Blender. I've tried searching for a similar question but found nothing. | [
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3,081 | I've already asked which wires I should use, and I believe I have that covered now, but I was also wondering what solder / specs on the solder are considered safe when attaching my wires to my heat bed. I have some solder here at the house, it's quite new (never been opened) it's Radio Shack `64-008 E` 60/40 Standard Rosin-Core with 0.062 diameter... | [
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"text": "That solder sounds like it should be fine.\n\nAny solder should work, the only difference you might find is some... | 2016/11/23 | [
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3,084 | What would cause this effect, and how can it be avoided?
This is a PLA print, and it should look like [this](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1560347). I tried 215 and 225°C and both had the same effect. An earlier similar print at 220°C was not as bad but it still had some catching- it seems hit and miss and not strongly related to extrusion temperature.
Outside:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/nlRb8.jpg)
Inside:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PQtTj.jpg)
I'm using a QIDI dual extruder printer with Makerware 2.2.2.89 software and these parameters:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/6FJLL.png)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Ge9ZK.png)
Speed is 60/80mm/s. | [
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"text": "As pointed out in the comments, what you are seeing could very well be related to *lack of cooling*: \n\nYou m... | 2016/11/24 | [
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3,089 | I'm seeing the following pattern on my Prosi clone:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/uskfa.jpg)
The first layer prints OK, layer adhesion to the bed is good. The second layer shows the weird gaps. On larger pieces, or with an increased feed rate, it sometimes gets so bad that parts of the second layer detach and are dragged across the print. I get the impression that this effect is worse when printing in the "top left to bottom right" direction, but not as bad when printing in the "top right to bottom left" direction.
This occurs with multiple filaments and materials. I've already tried to manipulate the flow rate, temperatures and print speed, but gotten little improvement if any.
What might be causing this issue? | [
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"text": "I wouldn't describe that as an \"OK\" first layer. The nozzle is either too far from the bed, or you're under... | 2016/11/24 | [
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3,094 | I am completely new to 3D printing. I need to build a calibration plate, which I was told can be built using vero back plastic and a 3d printer. But I am afraid I need to know more if I give this to someone for fabrication. In particular, I am wondering how to get the white dots on the surfaces. My question is probably ill-posed, but I am trying to get as much info as I can before I consult any 3d printing vendors. Thanks
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/32GtS.jpg) | [
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"text": "The photo is too small to be clear about the entire objective and there are no dimensions provided. A quick google ... | 2016/11/26 | [
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3,098 | Is there actually a way to determine whether the sheet of glass that one has received from a Chinese supplier on eBay is actually a sheet of Borosilicate glass, and not just a piece of normal glass intended for glazing purposes?
Are there any laminations, or markings/features, visible under a certain light or if the sheet is viewed at a particular angle?
I ask because most of the 200 x 300 mm sheets on eBay are priced at around £16 - £26, but there are a few priced at just £10, which still claim to be toughened glass, although they do not mention the word Borosilicate, such as this one, [300x200x3mm 3D Printer Heated Bed Toughened Glass Clear Build Plate UK STOCK](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300x200x3mm-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Toughened-Glass-Clear-Build-Plate-UK-STOCK-/302067007035).
To paraphrase, "Usually if things seem to good to be true, then they are probably fake." However, I wondered whether it was worth a punt as it is only £10, and then if I would be able to verify its veracity once it was in my hands. | [
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"text": "Google turned up this thread: <http://arstechnica.com/civis/viewtopic.php?t=96214>\n\nThere don't seem to be ... | 2016/11/27 | [
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3,112 | Should it be possible to directly send G-code to the printer serial connection using pipes under Linux?
Example:
```
echo M106 > /dev/ttyUSB0
```
My controller runs at 250000 baud, I have tried setting the TTY baud rate to 250 kBd with:
```
stty -F /dev/ttyUSB0 250000
```
But, unfortunately, this particular baud rate appears to be unsupported under Ubuntu, giving the error:
```
stty: invalid argument ‘250000’
``` | [
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"text": "[This forum page](https://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1609727) strongly suggests you should be using `s... | 2016/12/01 | [
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3,113 | I have a large resistor that goes in my J-Head extruder. It's grey, and it came with the extruder. I'm uncertain as to what grade of wire I need to solder to it. It being one of the elements of the system that heats the hottest, I would think that it would be important to find out what sort of wire is the correct kind to use on it, since heating elements require a lot of electricity.
Also does the solder type I use matter? | [
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3,119 | Is it possible to 3D print an axial turbine 2 - 4 inches (50 - 100 mm) in radius, capable withstanding temperatures about 800 - 1000°C and rotation speeds of 100 - 120 x 103 rpm?
How expensive is that? Is it cheaper to mill such a turbine from a whole piece of alloy?
What technologies and materials should be used?
Are Inconel alloys suitable for 3D printing?
Are there any titanium alloys suitable for this task? I've read titanium is rarely used in rapidly rotating parts due to its ability to ignite if mechanical failure occurs and rotating blades touch the casing. Do titanium alloys still have this drawback?
Is it possible to make disk of titanium and blades of Inconel, and have them welded (considering heat expansion)?
How blades or blisks can be ceramically coated?
Thank you! | [
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3,121 | I've just tried to make some small labels with embossed lettering. Base is 1.5 mm, with letters and a perimeter protruding by another 1 mm. After printing, I realised that Cura is not giving me a top layer, all I get is an inner and outer wall for the perimeter and the lettering:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Hri17.png)
The base is OK, with 4 layers, but there is no infill at the top. Presumably there is a setting that I've missed (I can appreciate that maybe this is a detail to the slicing which is model dependant). Layers are 0.2 mm, top and bottom set to 4 layers.
I had walls set to 1.6 mm, (4 layers) and the wall features here are 1 mm (i.e. 2.5x the nozzle). The features are solid so far as I know, not drawn as a hollow.
I found a relevant bug for Cura: <https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1303> (and I also understand a workaround now, just need to write up an answer). | [
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3,129 | I'm considering using [CAT6](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category_6_cable) cables to connect my printer's extruder assembly to the control board. They seem like an elegant solution, but I've read conflicting opinions online on whether or not this would be feasible.
I would like to know if CAT6 cables can handle the required current, whether I should be worried about electromagnetic interference or other problems, and how I should pair up the wires. Cable length would be 30cm max.
Here are the relevant parts:
1. [E3D heater cartridge](http://e3d-online.com/Heater-Cartridge-12v-40w) (2 wires)
2. [E3D thermistor cartridge](http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/Thermistor-Cartridge) (2 wires)
3. [30mm hotend fan](http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Spares/30x30x10mm-12v-DC-Fan) (2 wires)
4. [Z-axis auto-leveling probe](https://printrbot.com/shop/auto-leveling-probe-2) (3 wires)
5. [NEMA 17 extruder motor](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Q6nW_lToPZe6Kou6VbDMoQ3sFleCJ02XV0y4piXL_Fg/pubhtml) (4 wires)
6. [50mm part cooling fan](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00MJUD1DW) (2 wires)
**[cable A]** I imagine I would use one CAT6 cable for parts 1-4, which form a logical unit (and in the future I might combine them into a removable module). I've been given to understand that power for the fan can be spliced from the z-probe or heater cartridge, so 8 wires should be enough.
**[cable B]** I would use a second CAT6 cable for parts 5 and 6. There will be two spare wires, so I could potentially double the bandwidth for the motor. | [
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3,134 | I bought a self-made Reprap Prusa Mendel 3 printer, modified to be built from cheaper materials, and immediately after the deal I got various problems. I fixed the majority of them, but don't know what the reason of the strange extruder behavior is: The stepper motor is not rotating while extruding filament, it's moving back and forth with small steps instead. I made some footage, [Reprap Prusa Mendel 3d printer extruder problem](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcF9qxtxIO0), hoping that someone has met a similar problem before.
If so, please tell me what to do to make it work as it should.
The obvious option while encountering this problem was to slacken the bolt which holds this parts together (in the left bottom corner of the video), but that did not help.
Any ideas are very welcomed. Thanks for your time. I hope this is an appropriate kind of question here. | [
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3,137 | I am using an M3D printer and loaded an STL design with holes in the middle:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/UMD0V.jpg)
However, the output is an object without holes (so I stopped the printing):
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/RrlBC.jpg)
What can be done to be able to print with holes? | [
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"text": "**Case 1:**\n\nThere may be an issue with the precision of the print nozzle, not being able to fully articulate t... | 2016/12/04 | [
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3,151 | Does anyone know where I can get a free 3D design (STEP or STL) of an M4 Screw and nut? I have found only an M3 on Thingiverse: [M3 Bolt](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729842) by [Kaleta](http://www.thingiverse.com/Kaleta). | [
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"text": "The thing you linked to describes itself as being generated from a parametric model:\n<http://www.thingivers... | 2016/12/08 | [
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3,160 | I just want to ask if anyone has successfully printed a screw (M3 or M4). Is the printed output usable as a screw? What printer is capable of printing screws? I am using an M3D printer - is there a configuration to successfully print a screw that is usable?
Can anyone share a picture of the best 3D printed screw? | [
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"text": "well... it's hard to imagine printing M3 or even M4\nI haven't try but I haven't because I'm pretty sure it's no... | 2016/12/09 | [
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3,165 | I am planning a mechanical 40% keyboard build and are coincidentally on the home stretch of a homemade CNC project.
The only thing the CNC needs to do for the keyboard project is to drill 7\*48 holes. So what I need to do now is layout those holes in SVG. Therein lies the question. What resolution should I use for the SVG? I want to space the center of the keyboard switches 19 mm apart. An online pixel to mm converter suggested that 72 pixels is exactly 19.05 mm (which actually is what Cherry MX says should be their spacing).
Now, I do understand that this really doesn't matter, but I am curious as I am new on CNCs and was suspecting that there is a number that will "just work".
EDIT:
For example, if I where to print the template (SVG) on a regular printer, what pixel to mm ratio should I use so that it would come out the size I want? | [
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3,167 | Like many people, I have burnt the pins in the micro-controller connected to the E0 motor - the E0 motor is not working anymore and I need to print tomorrow! I need to control the extruder motor with the working E1 pins. How do I change this in firmware?
I tried to change to the pins in `pins\_RAMPS.h" but it was a complete fail, the motors that i tried to change didn't move.
I have a Arduino Mega + Ramps 1.3 in "Extruder Fan Bed" configuration, I use Repetier-Host as host and Marlin as firmware. | [
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"text": "As a quick and dirty solution you may try to enable two extruders in configuration file, re-upload firmware, and ... | 2016/12/11 | [
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3,173 | I have generated a few 3D prints in G-code using KISSlicer and Slic3r, but when I load them into Ultimaker Cura I'm unable to get anything. The number of layers says one but I cannot see anything and print option is not working. I have viewed these G-codes online and they are fine. I'm using a Lulzbot KITTAZ with v2 toolhead (hexagon) and I can print only using Ultimaker Cura. Please tell me what the reason for this is. | [
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"text": "Cura prior to version 2.5 does not take G-code as an input. I'm not sure what you mean by \"print only using ... | 2016/12/12 | [
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3,174 | What resources or methods would OpenSCAD users suggest to piece together disparate STL files?
I'd like to take an existing STL model-library of STL parts (head, torso, arms, legs) and make it a Thingiverse OpenSTL maker, similar to the castle generator and/or the puzzle generators available.
This way, users can generate a custom model using the designated parameters and download the model for printing. | [
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"text": "Cura prior to version 2.5 does not take G-code as an input. I'm not sure what you mean by \"print only using ... | 2016/12/12 | [
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3,178 | 3D printing can be used to make injection molds of unimaginable complexity but which kind of 3D printing process is suitable when?
Suppose that a part is to be made using injection molding in large quantity for an extended period of time, what Additive Manufacturing (AM) process will be the best, such that the mold does not give way too soon?
Also, suppose that the part to be made is custom and only has to be made in small quantities - that is to say that the injection mold will be used limited number of items and then thrown away - which is the best AM technique then? Best in the sense of economic feasibility, lower cost, lower capital investment etc.? | [
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"text": "Yes, this is very broad. That said...\n\nFor high detail you want SLA. i.e. jewelry. If you just want a prototype ... | 2016/12/12 | [
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3,184 | Are there any extruders and printers that do a good job with ceramic clay?
I assume the clay has to be fine grained and with enough water added to be able to be pushed out through the extruder's nozzle. I also assume the print speed would have to be arther low for the already printed layers to gain stability before printing the next layer. Perhaps some extra equipment on the printer to spped up this drying process?
At the same time, the print speed can't be too low: if the bottom starts to dry enough to start shrinking, the object will crack.
Also, some solutions I've seen tend to result in rather low resolution/thick layers, which is negative.
So, what equipment is "out there"? | [
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"text": "I cant speak for the quality or type of clay, but there are several designs out there that print in clay. Here is the fi... | 2016/12/13 | [
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3,185 | I have Prosi i3 derivative with MK8 extruder and Marlin 1.1RC8 as firmware. I already reduced the default speeds as well as the accelerations. But sometimes when trying to print with BQ PLA filament (220°C), mostly during filling areas, my extruder clicks. The below screenshot of Slic3rs Layers view shows the clicking "lines".
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Rzmxn.png)
What settings I need to change to avoid the overextrusion in this case? | [
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"text": "The only time that I've observed clicking from the extruder on my Anet-A8 is on the first layers when I have... | 2016/12/13 | [
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3,189 | I'm looking to buy my first 3D Printer, on a tight budget of $250. Unfortunately, this printer that I found on Amazon comes with all the bells and whistles, *except* for a heated bed.
I want to know if this would affect printing severely, as I have read that the plastic/ filament cools down rather quickly, and that it results in Printer "fails".
I'm actually a bit nervous with this buy, as I don't want to spend $250 on a printer that produces 90% print fails.
An example of the printer I'm referring to is the [Cube 3 Printer, Gquy
by 3D Systems](http://rads.stackoverflow.com/amzn/click/B015FXQZ6O). | [
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3,198 | Just started doing some design. First project was a replacement handle for my angle grinder, so basically a hollow cylinder. I want to reduce the amount of material used in the print. I could sit here and punch holes through the handle with a smaller cylinder, or some other shape etc., but is there an easier way to do this?
It must be a pretty common requirement, just like in the movies where the spies look at a photo and tell the tech to 'enhance ... enhance'. Ideally you could select a surface and overlay some sort of pattern to remove material. | [
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3,202 | I've read different things about PLA and heat-bed. Some say it is not needed, others recommend 60-70°C, but not for the first layers.
For larger objects I often have the problem that the object does not stick to the blue-painters-tape-covered aluminium print plate. Instead the print "curls" up on one or more corners. To reduce this effect, I'm using a brim between 5 and 10mm. Depending on the size of the object the brim works quite well. Will heating the bed also improve the print quality by reducing the amount of heat warping / curling? | [
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"text": "It really depends on your formulation. 70 °C would be on the higher end. I think I do between 70 °C - 75 °C. Not ... | 2016/12/14 | [
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3,207 | I'm in the process of building the [D-Bot core XY](http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065) printer, and I was hoping to know if the Z-axis 'zero' is near the hot end or near the bottom of the printer furthest away from the hotend? In this printer the Z-platform moves up and down and the nozzle stays at the same height. | [
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"text": "Yes, Z-Zero is typically at the \"top\" of the printer, closest to the nozzle(s). X and Y zeros are also typically in t... | 2016/12/15 | [
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3,213 | When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall.
* Printer: Arduino Materia 101
* Filament: Rec Pla
* Temp: 210 degrees
I have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.
However, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SFYAqm.jpg) | [
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"text": "Yes. That happens. I personally prefer this to the alternative which is it does not go far enough and curls back.... | 2016/12/16 | [
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3,215 | When trying to print parts that should contain certain sized holes, e.g. for screws, how to achieve that they are sized correctly?
Is it possible to calibrate the printer perfectly, so it prints holes correctly sizes in all common sizes (e.g. starting at 2mm diameter)? Or is it better to design the holes larger or print prototypes and increase the sizes according to the real prints? | [
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"text": "[The reason holes come out undersized is generally the slicer](http://hydraraptor.blogspot.nl/2014/06/why-sli... | 2016/12/17 | [
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3,233 | I started to write an application that calculates the estimated total print time from the G-code file for an already sliced model.
The program works and it's pretty accurate.
It works as follows:
1. It scans the entire G-code file to identify all of the movements
2. It calculates the time for each move by dividing segment distance by the speed in mm/s.
Let's assume this is the G-code:
```
G28 ; home all axes
G1 Z0.200 F5400.000
G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000
```
This is the calculation it does:
```
totalTime = 0
# G28 ; home all axes
currentX = 0 mm
currentY = 0 mm
currentZ = 0 mm
# G1 Z0.200 F5400.000
newZ = 0.2 mm
mmPerSecond = 5400 / 60 = 90 mm/s
deltaZ = newZ - currentZ = 0.2 - 0 = 0.2 mm
segmentLength = deltaZ = 0.2 mm
moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond = 0.2 / 90 = 0.002 s
totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0 + 0.002 = 0.002 s
# G1 X158.878 Y27.769 E6.65594 F900.000
newX = 158.878 mm
newY = 27.769 mm
mmPerSecond = 900 / 60 = 15 mm/s
deltaX = newX - currentX = 158.878 - 0 = 158.878 mm
deltaY = newY - currentY = 27.769 - 0 = 27.769 mm
segmentLength = square_root(deltaX² + deltaY²) = 161.287 mm
moveTime = deltaZ / mmPerSecond = 161.287 / 15 = 10.755 s
totalTime = totalTime + moveTime = 0.002 + 10.755 = 10.757 s
```
In this example, the print will take approximately 10.7 seconds.
More generally, the formula used is, for each movement:
```
moveTime = segmentLength / mmPerSecond
```
By summing up all the move times, we have the total estimated print time.
I've seen that some forums state that the 3D print time also depends on some settings on the 3D printer, especially Acceleration X, Acceleration Y, Acceleration Z, Jerk, and Z-Jerk.
I'd like to make it possible to use those values to more accurately calculate print time; however, I don't understand how those values affect the move time:
1. How should Acceleration and Jerk be considered; and, how do they speed up or slow down the print time?
2. How should I edit my formula in order to include Acceleration and Jerk in the print time calculation? | [
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3,234 | I run a high school 3D printer lab and we have several 5th generation MakerBot printers. On one of them I have considerable trouble with "thin" prints and filament slip warnings.
So far I've tried changing extruders and using different filament rolls with no luck. But, if I move the job and the extruder to a different printer it works.
I'd appreciate suggestions for how to sort this out. I would have expected the slipping problems to follow the extruder. | [
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"text": "Oh interesting. By slips, I take it you mean that the raw filament slips, not the print slips.\n\nThis will happe... | 2016/12/20 | [
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3,238 | I am planning on buying a cheap 3D printer to get into 3D printing, but the printer I'm planning to buy only takes 1.75 mm filament, I was wondering if it might be possible to change the hotend of that printer or something to take in 3.0 mm filament, the reason I want to use 3.0 mm filament is because it is cheaper than 1.75 mm filament. | [
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"text": "First it really depends on your printer / extruder. That said generally 1.75 mm is cheaper and much more common.\n... | 2016/12/20 | [
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3,243 | I would really like to be able to print moving parts that fit well enough to move without excessive friction, but also aren't excessively loose. Using an Ultimaker 2, what should be my expectations be, and how would I go about produce well fitting parts?
Using a tool like Openscad to generate parametric parts is really useful because it facilitates the creation of geometrically precise parts such as cogs and drive shafts, which also have precise dimensions. The problem arises when the parts are printed and joined together.
I recently printed some cogs that were supposed to be able to rotate freely around a shaft, which was also printed. I made the shaft about 0.1 mm smaller than the center hole of the cog expecting it to be able to rotate freely, however I found that I had to bore out the center hole slightly and sand down the shaft. I then found that the boring was imprecise and the center of rotation was off center. | [
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3,263 | tried searching but couldn't find anything.
I do not have a 3d printer so can't really experiment on my own, which means that when I am going to order a 3d print I want to get it as good as possible. So, my question:
Do quality of geometry matters when 3d printing? Will 3d printer only print quads, or ngons are fine? Are there shapes to avoid?
Cheers :)
M. | [
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3,265 | I'm trying to design a camera handle, which will be around 8" long and will have a brass camera thread insert in the end, where the camera will be mounted. (That way, I don't have to screw the camera thread into plastic which will wear out faster.)
If I print the handle normally, the end of the handle won't be solid so I can't solidly put that brass fitting in. If I set the fill in Cura to 100%, the print will take a very long time and will be unnecessarily solid. I only need a centimeter or two at the end to be solid.
Is there a way to get one particular wall in Cura to be very thick (1-2cm) without affecting the other walls? Is there some other way to get a solid chunk in the end of the part? | [
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3,275 | I have just got a Monoprice Maker Select 3d printer (which is really just a Wanhao Duplicator i3).
I want to print a model that came on the included SD card (`1.gcode`) with ABS filament. I first press "`Preheat ABS`" and wait for the display to show the correct temperatures, 245°C for the extruder and 90°C for the print bed. Then, I mount the SD card and select the file to print.
However, once I do that, the "goal" temperatures change to 195°C for the extruder and 50°C for the print bed, and the temperatures reported by the printer gradually go down as the printer waits for it to match the "goal" temperature. This results in a failed print, with the filament sticking to the extruder in a clump.
What is going on here? I am trying PLA with the same file, and it seems to work fine, although the temperature change still occurs. | [
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"text": "The demo files are gcode files generated for use with the sample PLA that comes with the printer. If you want to pr... | 2016/12/25 | [
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3,278 | This is my problem:
I'm assembling a 3D printer with the RAMPS 1.4 board and Arduino Mega. I have assembled the structure and the electronics (set drivers, placed the jumpers, connected stepper motors...) and have uploaded Marlin firmware (configuring: thermistor, endstops...) on the Arduino Mega.
I've tried to connect, via USB, to the computer and using the Repetier software I have commanded the printer which did do some movement. The printer worked perfectly. After a few tests, however, I've noticed that the Arduino was restarting several times and at one point I saw a component on the Arduino board burning. Searching the internet I saw that the burned component was the voltage regulator.
I heard also about unplugging the screen because it consumes a lot of current, that passes through the voltage regulator, thereby heating it up. I then proceeded to buy another Arduino Mega. I also checked the voltage of my 12V 360W power supply and it is correct. I always powered the Arduino with USB and RAMPS 1.4 was connected to the power supply from the two terminals.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/PFSWR.png)
When the new Arduino arrived, I connected the whole (without connecting the screen) and tried. The printer worked very well until it started giving the same problem as the first Arduino board. Someone can tell me if I have done something wrong, or is it the RAMPS board that does not work properly?
### EDIT:
I read that the endstops can cause this problem. I have these endstops: [1 PZ di Alta Qualità Finecorsa Meccanico Per rampe Reprap 1.4 stampante 3D Con imballaggio indipendente kit fai da te](https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1PCS-High-Quality-Mechanical-Endstop-For-Reprap-ramps-1-4-3D-printer-With-independent-packing-diy/32454910275.html) and I connected the black wire to GND, red wire to 5V and the green wire to SIGNAL. | [
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3,283 | I have never much cared about self intersecting meshes when slicing with Cura. Geometry like the one below are often practical. I for instance add lots of rivets that self intersect with the base geometry:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/cRZqk.png)
Now I have switched printer, and am using Simplify3D instead. All of a sudden, I get lots of problems with these models. The intersection of the objects become hollow. Simplify3D has a setting to join the outer solid shell but it also fills holes (such as the center hole of a gear).
I make models to sell so this is a big deal for me.
EDIT: Also, they printed perfectly fine in formlabs "slicer". | [
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3,288 | I'm new with my 3D printer, I just print two different pawn pieces from thingverse. I just used Cura to convert the files to be readable for the printer. Is my problem with the pieces has to do with the configuration from the Cura software? or with my printer itself?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xh3Bi.jpg "Print showing issue")
Update:
I just printed a baymax that came with the SD printer. And it looks awesome. I think the problem is with the configuration from Cura.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/iXMhm.png "Print of acceptable quality") | [
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"text": "That looks like horrible underextrusion. Either the extruder steps/mm are way off, but more likely is that y... | 2016/12/28 | [
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3,291 | Hello is there a way to prevent bend on print with M3D printer?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/j2IRe.jpg) | [
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"text": "You can to print a brim, a thin layer on the bottom connected to the model. This will help hold it in place. Sinc... | 2016/12/28 | [
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3,294 | I recently had a problem with the z-axis of my printer. To resolve the issue with the Z axis not moving I remove the left polished rod. Am I able to use the printer with just one smooth rod? | [
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"text": "First a resounding no. Not a good idea. Are you saying it works now that you have removed the smooth rod?\n\nThat ... | 2016/12/28 | [
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3,300 | I've tried using a throat with a PTFE tube, but encountered the problem described in this [question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/904/teflon-tubing-in-nozzle-throat-coming-out). It seems only a small amount of excess pressure in the extruder is enough to force out the inner tube. This makes me worry that with this particular part, I won't achieve a reliable configuration (and I'm experiencing some binding with the original plain steel throat, so a PTFE liner seems worth exploring).
I was wondering about the advisability of using a retainer to apply some pressure at the cold end - a nut with a washer soldered on maybe.
My goal is to prevent the teflon tube from rising up, so I can use this part and retain some resilience against excess extrusion pressure. I was assuming I had a slightly sub-standard throat part (in a pack of 6).
However, I now wonder if the problem was caused by too high a temperature (this is ABS filament) and maybe the teflon will be too soft to function as designed, so if I go back to PLA filament, maybe it is more likely to work without modification.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Zj61nm.jpg) | [
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3,302 | I want to create parts for a 3D printer using OpenSCAD. Having some STL files from the vendor, but nothing else (no technical drawing, no CAD files).
Does anybody knows a free tool, that allows me to
* measure distances between 2 selected vertices,
* measure distances between a selected vertex and a plane defined by 3 vertices,
* measure the radio of a circle defined by 3 selected vertices?
I very much like the way Blender allows to work with meshes, especially select vertices or planes, but unfortunately haven't found a way to measure with Blender. | [
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3,304 | ```
Nozzle diameter = .4
Extrusion multiplier = 1
Extrusion Width = .45 <-- I feel like this could be reduced to fix it?
Layer Height = .3
```
I'm using Simplify3D.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/SsiMS.jpg)
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1tTZ5.jpg) | [
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3,310 | I am running a MakerBot Replicator 2. During the print, the printer just stops executing and I am running out of ways to troubleshoot.
After restarting, I can load and extrude filament.
I have replaced the SD card, and even borrowed one from another working replicator, and the freeze still occurs.
Likewise, I've regenerated the x3g file, and that did not work.
The panel does not freeze, I can cancel the print during the freeze.
I've made sure Z pause is off. It tends freezes randomly on the first layer.
In general, it looks as though the print is "in progress" but not making progress (Timer ticks up, % completed does not)
Does anyone have any idea as to what could be causing the problem? | [
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"text": "Seems like others have had similar issues: <https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/engineering/topic:3849>. Their is... | 2017/01/03 | [
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3,322 | Another thing I'm seeing with my new build.
Late in a small print, the unit appears to perform operations "out of order" occasionally. Here's a picture where it's running a layer across the model.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/hGIJk.jpg)
These "skips" can start in the middle of a line. It always comes back and fills them in before starting the next layer - more or less accurately. But from my very limited understanding of gcode, it doesn't seem like this should happen.
When watching the print closely, I'll occasionally see small glitches, where the head jogs very slightly as it runs a line across.
This was sliced with Cura - I'm going to try a different slicer and see if I get anything similar.
Thanks! | [
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3,324 | I'm new to 3d printing, so I might be missing something obvious. If so, please let me know.
I printed my model successfully yesterday, but today I'm trying to print the same model and the first layer refuses to adhere, which means at best several layers after that are messed up if it manages to recover, but usually it just means I have to cancel and start again.
It will print one horizontal line (across the x axis), then when it tries to vertical line (across the y axis) the horizontal line doesn't adhere and gets dragged along with the print head and everything is screwed up.
I've tried leveling the bed over and over again. (I use a sheet of paper and try to slip it between the bed and printhead. I adjust the bed so that I feel a bit of resistance as I push and pull the paper under the printhead.)
I've tried increasing the preheat on the printhead and on the bed. I'm using black PLA 1.75mm that says it has a print temp of 205-225. I've tried printing at 205, 210, 215, 220, and 225. I've tried a bed temp of 50, 55, 60, 65, and 70.
I've tried setting the print speed multiplier to 0.5 to give it time to adhere, but no changes.
I'm trying to print something a wireframe cube that is at the extent of my printable size, so I don't know of a way to use a raft or a brim to help adhesion.
This is what my model looks like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/AkcFA.png)
When I printed a good one yesterday, here is what the first two lines looked like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/ET1Is.jpg)
When I print today, even after multiple attempts to level the bed, this is what the first layer tends to look like:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/e7mcL.jpg)
I'm using a Monoprice 15365. I created my model in SketchUp, then exported as STL, which I imported into Cura 2.3.1. Then I used Cura to export a gcode file to an SD card. I put the SD card into my 3d printer and printed from there.
Any advice is welcome. I don't know if the problems I'm having are because the bed is too low or too high or too hot or too cold or if the printhead is too hot or too cold... nothing I've tried seems to change the results. | [
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3,332 | Here is the X-axis of the P3Steel:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/xuYOq.jpg)
The X-axis idler end of a P3Steel printer, employs an 8 mm diameter rod for the axle on which a 608zz bearing is mounted for the GT2 belt. This 8 mm rod is approximately 20 - 24 mm in length, with grooves at either end, for circlips.
A photo of the assembled idler, with the rod and circlips highlighted:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/1qJ06.jpg)
My question is: Does this part need to be custom made?
The short rod didn't come with the frame kit that I purchased (nor was it listed in the parts list, or shown in the photo of the parts - so it not as if it was omitted with my order). I have searched on eBay for it, using various search terms, and I am unable to find one. As I was not trained in mechanical engineering, I am not sure if this part has a special name, or is it just called a "smooth rod, with grooved ends"? I have also done a fair amount of googling, and although I have found some people who have constructed this particular frame, no one makes mention of this axle, nor any difficulties in sourcing it.
I have contacted the supplier of the frame, [Frame Prusa I3 P3Steel v4.0 +RODS](http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Frame-Prusa-I3-P3Steel-v4-0-RODS-/182361720200?), and I am awaiting a reply.
This missing part is holding up my build progress - I already have the 608zz bearing and circlips.
---
### Additional images
This image shows the "exploded view" and the 8mm rod can be clearly seen:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/JPjQR.jpg)
Here are images of the assembled idler, showing the bearing inside -
Freyt view:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/c63fV.jpg)
Side view:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2Nggu.jpg)
This images are a little blurry, as they are screen shots taken from the video, [I3 Steel CORDOBESA con extrusor/with extruder](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDtDiW0kTSc). | [
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3,344 | Does anybody have an overview of what things should be calibrated (and in what order) for a certain 3d printer or after changing the printing material?
I only know about:
* calibrating the extruder steps per mm, e.g. [Tom's youtube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y)
* determining the print temperature, e.g. [RepRap Neo's youtube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FSOPsRiiOZk)
* calibrating the extrusion multiplier (for each different filament), e.g. [RepRap 101's youtube tutorial](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnjE5udkNEA)
How to calibrate/determine the maximum speeds or accelerations? | [
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"text": "Recalibrating your machine for the new filament diameter is a good idea. Filament diameters vary slightly between ma... | 2017/01/06 | [
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3,350 | It seems that when filament throughput is increased (by increasing movement speed or extrusion width/height), printing temperature also has to be increased to compensate, because the filament will have less time to spend in the melting zone. That much seems clear from practical experience. But I have two questions (or to be more precise, one question on two levels):
1. Is there a good rule of thumb for this, to help people calibrate their settings?
2. How much do we know about the formula governing this behavior? Can we calculate the required hotend temperature *precisely* based on the increased throughput?
For anyone who has studied physics / thermodynamics, this is probably simple stuff. But has the work been done for 3D printing specifically, in a way that is practically applicable?
I share the following train of thought to start off with. Let me know if I make any errors in reasoning.
* Presumably, every material has an optimal printing temperature just above its melting point.
* But the thermistor doesn't read filament temperature. It reads the heat block temperature.
* Below a certain throughput, the temperature of the filament will have time to equalize with the temperature of the heat block before it leaves the nozzle.
+ For those slow speeds, heat block temperature should be set exactly to the material's optimal printing temperature.
* For greater speeds, however, heat block temperature will always have to be higher than the mark, because the filament doesn't have time to equalize.
+ At that point, it becomes a balancing act. Find the best heat block temperature (°C) given a rate of throughput (mm³/s), the optimal printing temperature for a given material (°C), the volume of the melting zone (mm³) and *< some other property of the material >*, which determines how fast it heats up. I don't know what that last property is, nor can I come up with the proper unit. The material probably approaches the temperature of the environment asymptotically. This is where thermodynamics comes in, I guess.
* Theoretically, running filament also cools down the heat block, but we can ignore this. If this effect is significant at all (is it?), this is already compensated for by the PID controller.
I'm almost certainly missing some key insights. I'm curious to know what work has been done. | [
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"text": "I see an answer not a question. It's a balancing act and there is no predefined formula. Trial and error. Keep a ... | 2017/01/07 | [
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3,351 | I bought an Anet A8 over christmas. When I bought my printer from Gearbest, I also bought the inductive sensor that they [sell](http://www.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_591321.html).
It doesn't seem to work, and I think it might be broken. However, I have no idea how I can test if it is broken. This is what the wiring [looks](http://rotjes.bangblog.eu/reddit/DSC_0112.JPG) like and how it's connected to the [board](http://rotjes.bangblog.eu/reddit/DSC_0113.JPG)
I'm not sure if I need to modify the wiring in order to hook it up to the A8's motherboard. I have no idea what the pinout is on the A8's mobo, and it's not indicated either. Most guides deal with using RAMPS when it comes to installing such a sensor. I'd like to know how to connect this to my board, if possible.
The printer works fine otherwise, so I don't think the board is broken or anything. For now I've resumed using the normal endstop, but I would like to enable bed levelling by installing this sensor. (or a different one if necessary)
How do I get this working? | [
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3,363 | I've build a 3D printer from sourced parts and mounted the hotend cooler to blow air over the heatsink.
Talking to a friend, he said it's better to reverse the airflow over the heatsink, but couldn't give me an argument other than everywhere he saw it was like this: all coolers are mount to suck the hot air away from the heatsink.
Is it one way better than the other way ? And if so, why ? | [
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"text": "In the case of 3D Printing, it's going to be faster to cool the radiator by blowing out the heat from the source.\n\nTh... | 2017/01/09 | [
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3,366 | In [this question](https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/a/3116/37) I was told that I should use silver solder to connect the heating element to the power supply.
(I was also told that a ceramic extruder head was the way to go, but I'm working with what I have)
I bought two types of silver solider from Radio Shack:
* 96/4 Silver-Bearing Solder, Lead-Free 0.62" diameter.
* 62/36/2 Silver-Bearing Solder, 0.15" diameter.
Is there any reason I should use one of these over the other to power the heading element of the J-Head extruder? | [
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"text": "The first is not suitable. ASTM96TS Sn96Ag4 has a melting point of 221–229 °C according to [Wikipedia](https:... | 2017/01/09 | [
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3,375 | Under FreeCAD, I sketched on the face of a solid as follows :
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/Qe4nu.png)
My problem is, when I use "Pad a selected sketch", the solid created comprises also the original solid.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pHI59.png)
It prevents me, for instance, to get the difference with the first one.
Any idea what may be causing this? How to prevent it?
MyFreeCAD config:
```
OS: Ubuntu 16.04.1 LTS
Word size of OS: 64-bit
Word size of FreeCAD: 64-bit
Version: 0.15.4671 (Git)
Branch: releases/FreeCAD-0-15
Hash: 244b3aef360841646cbfe80a1b225c8b39c8380c
Python version: 2.7.11
Qt version: 4.8.7
Coin version: 4.0.0a
OCC version: 6.8.0.oce-0.17
``` | [
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"text": "If you just select the face, and pad the face (versus padding the solid), you should not have this problem."
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3,382 | I'm using a Flashforge Pro and attempting to print a wheel about 6mm thick to serve as a platform. In other words, the wheel doesn't have to be solid, but spokes won't do the job. I've experimented with different temperatures, but, because of ABS' thermal expansion, I don't think that will solve the problem. Also tried putting lots of 2mm holes in the wheel. I've considered other designs for the interior, but doubt that would be a solution. Has anyone tried using different print paths, i.e. actually altering the path that the slicer suggests? (grasping at straws)
Thanks for your suggestions. | [
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"text": "If you can, set your slicer to do honeycomb fill. Depending on the weight requirement choose maybe 10% - 20% fill... | 2017/01/11 | [
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3,389 | I'm trying to use one of the RAMPS GPIOs to control an external device that requires a 5V low-current logic level signal from Marlin. In order to do this programmatically, my host software (Octoprint) is sending an M42 command. I am using the following syntax:
```
M42 P4 S255
```
according to the pinout in the following image:
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/TRInv.png)
However, the pin appears to not be driven to a logic HIGH level. Is there firmware-level configuration I need to do as well, or is my syntax/pin number incorrect? | [
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"text": "I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are tr... | 2017/01/12 | [
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3,392 | I'm trying to gear down a servo even further. I notice that the majority of the gears are made of nylon, and I want to create new gears that come close to the resolution and strength of the existing gears. I have a Replicator 2, but the resolution does not seem to come close to what I need. Any suggestions on how I can create nylon or other hard material parts that might work? | [
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"text": "I looked at the current Marlin code and the P24 command should work as you expect it unless the pin you are tr... | 2017/01/13 | [
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3,394 | PTFE tubes are typically delivered coiled up. And because they are quite stiff, they always want to spring back to their original curvy shape, making them harder to route properly.
Is there a way to straighten them out? | [
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"text": "I just plugged the ends of tube and soaked it in real warm water for 5 minutes then stretched it out on a table.... | 2017/01/13 | [
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3,398 | I just got a GeeeTech Rostock 301 mixer head delta printer and am having trouble honing in on why the extruder is struggling with my first spool of ABS.
Being the main parts of the printer came assembled I am unsure of where to start taking things apart. I have a read a multitude of possible causes and am hoping for some direction on which is most likely so I can start there.
Symptoms:
---------
Extruder clicking. The extruder makes a low grinding noise every time it tries to extrude more than 1mm of filament using the manual controls. Again I am working with ABS so I have the hotend heated to 250 degrees C. The extruder had no trouble when I was first putting the filament in and using the extruder to push it thorough the Bowden tube.
But when I tried using the manual controls to extrude a small amount of filament it seems to be fine, just a small time delay between the extruder moving and the plastic coming out of the hotend.
Things I have read to try
-------------------------
Again this a kit printer and the involved components came assembled (see below) so I am not sure what I should look at first. I assume that if it came pre-assembled then it is most likely done correctly.
1. Clean out the hotend, do a cold pull
2. Take apart the extruder and realign the driving cog, check for shaft slippage
3. Replace your Bowden Tubes
4. Tweak slicer settings
For the first 3 I think its new so it should be clean, in working order. And for number 4 I put what was in the manual except for the temperatures (because the settings shown in the manual were for PLA but it is a PLA or ABS printer)
Assembly:
---------
The printer being a kit came with the print head completely assembled as shown in the picture. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/NCO1Y.png)
Not shown in the picture it also had the Bowden tubes in place. It also came with the extruder assembled as shown in the picture. [](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VJV5E.png)
So aside from wiring and mounting these pieces the only thing I did was cut a clean edge on the Bowden tube and connect that to the extruder. | [
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3,402 | We are trying to repair an Ultimaker Original+. One problem is a missing resistor isolation. The Ultimaker Original+ prints with up to 260 Degree Celcius.
**Which kind of isolation products are suitable to resist the heat and are fitting on the thin wires of the thermistor?** | [
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"text": "I used Kapton tape to insulate mine."
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3,406 | I'm creating a reverse Bowden setup to guide my filament from spool to extruder, through a path which contains two [couplers](http://amzn.eu/almYaNi) in the middle as follows:
`[spool] --- |#= --- =#| --- [extruder]`
So I have to connect a tube to the *back* of a coupler (`---=#|`) and not just to the front (`---|#=`). That's the end that contains the screw thread, and it's not designed to take a tube. I can't manage to make it a smooth transition. When I try to push my 1.75 mm filament through, it will often get stuck there. After it's through, the extruder seems to have no problem with it anymore.
Is there a trick to making this a smooth transition? | [
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3,414 | If a part is wanted to be made the strongest possible, what slicer settings should be used?
* 3-5 shells vs all shells, no infill?
* 100% infill vs some other % infill?
* Thin layer height vs thick layer height?
* Any other relevant settings? | [
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"text": "If your real question is what would be the strongest then I say - the solid would be the strongest - no doubt.\... | 2017/01/17 | [
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3,417 | If I *accidentally* reverse the polarity of my power supply to the RAMPS board, what *exactly* will be damaged?
Will it harm my:
* RAMPS;
* Arduino Mega;
* Stepper motor and/or drivers, or;
* Any other electronic part(s)?
Will all or some of them be permanently damaged? | [
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"text": "### Polyfuses on the RAMPS\n\nFire appears to be the immediate issue, in the poly fuses.\n\nFrom [Reddit: rever... | 2017/01/17 | [
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3,419 | I'm (surprisingly) having a problem getting my PEI substrate to stick to the heated bed surface. The ABS item being printed stuck great to the PEI surface. I've not seen anyone else post on this problem, but perhaps someone has seen it.
Note, this is the PRINT SURFACE warping, not the item being printed. That part went great with no delamination even on a large flat bottom.
I'm using 3M 468 adhesive to attach a PEI plastic sheet directly to the heated surface of my Flashforge Creator Pro printer. The heated bed is anodized black and the adhesive is a sheet cut to the requisite 6" X 9". It seemed fine and looked pretty good with few air bubbles when first attached, but the first print caused the edges of the PEI plastic to warp up from the corners of the bed.
It appears that the weak link is that the PEI detached from the adhesive. While this was not uniform, removal of the PEI sheet showed that 95% of the adhesive was still attached to the print bed.
The PEI has one glossy side and one matte side, and I chose to apply the adhesive to the matte side to get the glossy surface. Does this make a difference?
I applied the adhesive to the PEI surface just as it was after removing the protective plastic coating. I figured this was a clean as it was ever going to get.
I'd definitely appreciate some ideas on this. | [
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"text": "I never used one, but the thing that makes two parts stick together is the atmospheric pressure. The glue is just... | 2017/01/18 | [
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3,420 | I've got a Monoprice Mini Select (15365) and it takes FOREVER for me to manually spin the dial to get the printhead to raise all the way up so that I can perform maintenance (clear blockages in the nozzle or apply new tape to the bed, etc).
So, I was thinking about writing a snippet of gcode that I could just run which would contain the commands necessary to do that for me. I'm a n00b to 3D printing, but I'm an old programmer so I figured it would be too hard. However, before running this code on my printer, I wanted to get some experts to double check me to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything. :)
Here is what I have, please let me know if I've done anything wrong or if you have any suggestions.
```
; Move print head to center and top to prepare for cleaning/maintenance
M107 ; fan off
G28 ; home all axes
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
; full dimensions of the print area are 120mm x 120mm x 120mm
G0 X60 Y60 Z119 ; move to center X,Y and just below the max height
M84 ; disable motors
```
I grabbed a few lines from gcode generated by Slic3r and used the gcode wiki entry to understand each of the commands and fill in the extra ones I needed. | [
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"text": "Yes, on machines which will execute \"standard\" gcode, this will do what you request. Some good resources are <http://... | 2017/01/18 | [
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3,431 | I've noticed this on almost ever print I've ever had. On the initial first line that clears the extruder nozzle tiny little bubbles/craters seem to form on the line. While I don't think these are causing any issue with my prints I'm curious to know the reason why they form at all.
Is this due to water absorption in my filament that turns to steam, which then bursts through the molten plastic? Is it due to air bubbles in the filament that are cause by the manufacturing process of the filament? Or is this more an indication that my nozzle is damaged or clogged in some way?
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/2we0A.jpg)
This image was made using ABS plastic and a heated build plate. I've noticed these same 'bubbles' appearing using PLA, and Nylon.
Edit: Nozzle temperature 240°C, build plate temperature 150°C, Nozzle diameter 0.4 mm, filament diameter (measured 1.75 mm) retraction distance 1.7 mm. Using the Makerbot Desktop Slicer.
The first line that my printer extrudes, where I'm seeing these 'bubbles' is a nearly full line. Makerbot starts from the right side of the image, extruding to the left.
[](https://i.stack.imgur.com/3sf99.jpg) | [
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