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How much weight can I hang from a drywall ceiling? I have a potted plant (approx 5kg/10lbs) that I wish to hang from a drywall ceiling of a window aisle. Unfortunately, I have no idea about what specific kind of drywall plate it is or how it was attached; at any rate there is only a fixed place that I can hang the plant from so that it doesn't prevent me from opening window. I have previously attached shelves and all kinds of things to drywall WALLS, no problem, and also reading here I mostly found about attaching/hanging things to/from walls, too, but I am a bit concerned about how much would a drywall plate be able to hold something hanging straight down from it. My current idea is to use a metallic threaded anchor like this: but maybe I need several anchors just to make sure weight is distributed, or maybe I should use a different kind of screw/attachment? THe aisle in question: <Q> Ideally this should be screwed/anchored into a joist for maximum support. <S> However, if you really want to use a drywall anchor, you should use a toggle bolt or a ceiling anchor. <S> Instead of just screwing into the wall, these expand to several times their size which gives you a good hold, especially when the force is pulling directly down. <A> Do you have attic access above the spot on the ceiling? <S> I would try to toenail a cross piece perpendicular to the ceiling joists where you want to hang your plant. <S> If there isn't room to swing a hammer between the joists and rafters that close to the edge of the roof, you could just screw into the end of the cross piece through the joists with 3" wood screws. <S> I'd recommend making a very small nail hole up through the ceiling drywall where you want to hang the plant prior to placing the cross piece. <S> That way when you get in the attic, the exact location will be much easier to find. <A> You could also try to get a board to go between the joists if you can't hit them directly. <S> The holding strength of drywall isn't much in this direction. <S> Really if you look at drywall it's about 2 pieces of paper with a little bit of "stuff" in between. <S> After you get it through toenail or screw through the drywall and the wood into your joists. <S> Then patch your hole and you'll have something worth holding too. <S> Not a cake walk though. <S> If you've ever installed a ceiling fan brace box that's the idea <S> I'm shooting for here. <A> I do a lot of work in remodel aplications. <S> As for the strength of 1/2" and 5/8 sheetrock it is quite strong. <S> I weigh 165 lbs and can verify that both 1/2" and 5/8" screwed will hold my weight as long as I walk soft, slow and stay away from seams. <S> Without showing any signs underneath. <S> Nailed sheetrock on the otherhand shows nail heads through the texture but still does not brake. <A> I hate hanging things from drywall. <S> That said, a typical toggle bolt on standard drywall is rated for 150 pounds. <S> I do not trust that rating, but that is the rating none the less. <S> I think toggle bolts are fine for 10 pounds.
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If you have the vertical space you could push a piece of wood through a hole near one of the anchors or near one of the joists. The worst case is you just have to patch the hole and repaint; drywall is pretty forgiving like that! 10lbs might be pushing it though, it will depend on the thickness of your drywall and the overall condition. I have been in multiple situations where I had 2 options walk or crawl on belly directly on the sheet rock or cut and remove the sheetrock from underneath to access the area I needed to get to. Shouldn't be terribly hard.
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What is this and can it be used to stop the flow of water? I have a leaky spigot that I am trying to fix. I followed the water line back and found this. Does anyone know what it is? Can it be used to stop the flow of water? <Q> Having replaced a couple of those before in my own home, I am virtually 100% certain it is a pressure <S> regulating valve. <S> See that all the examples I've shown below show the same bell housing, with a bolt on the top, and even a metal tag hanging off that bolt. <S> While the bolt can be turned with a wrench to adjust the pressure in your house, this is not a water shut-off valve, nor would I try to use it for that purpose. <A> 100% pressure regulator not used as a shut off. <S> the tag on top should say the pressure differentials. <S> like <S> (20 - 60 psi) <S> adjustable by loosening the 2 nuts on the bolt on top. <S> and the turning the bolt inward,clockwise to raise pressure. <S> or outward,counter clockwise to lower the pressure. <S> the main shut off to the house condo whatever should be toward the street in a ground box that says water on it. <S> has a metal or concrete <S> lid very heavy, lots of bugs in there as well. <S> good luck <A> Might be a pressure regulator. <S> Looks like it has an adjustment bolt on top.
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You can tell from the bell housing on top that it is what I say it is. Note that the valve has seen some time since installation and trying to completely turn off the water using it, EVEN IF YOU COULD DO SO, will very possibly cause it to completely fail to do its job properly in the future, thereby causing yet a different plumbing problem to solve later.
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What could cause my sink to drain slowly? Sometimes our bathroom sink will drain so slowly (with the water running) that the water will fill it faster than it can drain. However, after shutting the water off and letting it completely subside, it will typically drain properly the rest of the day and for the next several. Then after a few days it will repeat its previous behavior. Running Drano through the pipes has not seemed to have made a difference. What could cause this behavior? <Q> Remove the trap from the tailpiece of the wash bowl and see if it needs cleaning. <S> Check your main vent stack that goes through the roof for any obstructions. <S> Verify that a bird has not made a nest there. <A> While the tub and sink are empty and dry, pour a cup or so of baking soda down both drains. <S> Use a skewer or a chopstick to get as much of it down the drains as possible. <S> Then pour a liter or so of HOT vinegar into each drain. <S> Don't be surprised if enough hair to make a wig starts bubbling up. <S> Pull it out and toss it in the trash. <S> Use a hair screen over the drains for all future showers. <S> There is also an inexpensive plastic gizmo that can be used to drag hair and sludge from the pipe. <S> http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/000507.php <S> (I have no monetary interest in this product. <S> I am just a satisfied user.) <S> Shampoos, conditioners and moisturizers love to get together and hang out. <S> Regular (monthly) baking soda/vinegar treatments can keep your drains flowing. <A> I too had a similar problem: our cloakroom sink was always overflowing due to slow drainage. <S> I tried everything, acid, rods, removing the pipes. <S> It was a mystery and it was looking like we were going to have to reattach the pipe work elsewhere. <S> As a last resort I bought a Blockblaster from a TV shopping channel not expecting much, but boy was I wrong. <S> It uses CO 2 gas like what you get in fizzy <S> drink makers <S> so it's very safe. <S> I needed to cover the overflow, fill the sink with water and then cover with the Blockblaster sink attachment then push the button to blast out the gas. <S> There was a bit of vapor (dry ice) and a smell of eggs! <S> I ran the tap and the water flowed straight down the plug and continued to do this constantly. <S> It has flowed ever since and that was over a year ago! <S> We think there may have been sandy grit in the pipes that the rods couldn't clear and as the Blockblaster was so powerful it blasted it all away!
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If the sink was not installed by a plumber and has always had this problem, an air vent pipe may not have been installed or was installed incorrectly.
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How do I deal with Particle Board Subfloors and Hardwood Flooring? The house I recently purchased, built in 1973, has particle board subfloors. To clarify, this is not OSB and this is not just a particle board overlay over plywood -- the entire subfloor is 3/4" particle board (looks like oatmeal). There are several issues with this subfloor: the floors are creaky and warped in places and I've been strongly advised not to install hardwood floors over particle board, as they cannot hold nails and will deteriorate if water is spilled. I purchased hardwood floors (pre-finished 3/4"). Now I need to either 1. remove the particle board or 2. nail plywood over the particle board. I'm opting to remove it because with option "2" I'll end up with undesirable height differences in places. The problem with removing it is the existing subfloor runs under the interior walls, so once I cut it out and add new, there won't be any support where it overlaps the joists. Additionally, if the interior wall is not sitting on a joist, it could drop. This problem also occurs for doors and closets. To solve this I could install blocking, but then this could get very labor intensive. Another option is to cut along the joist and leave a margin of particle board along the walls. I could leave particle board in the closets since there is no load there. Another component to this problem is in the kitchen. The previous seller put in new cabinetry and granite counter tops. I don't really want to tear out the cabinets due to the expense. I could cut the subfloor out around the cabinet but then have the problem of what is supporting the cabinets (parallel with joists). I'd appreciate to hear from anyone that has ideas on the best way to proceed. <Q> If possible, try framing out the edges. <S> I would remove all of the existing sub floor (since it is particle board) and then add addition framing along the edges as needed for the new plywood. <S> In cases where you can't meet a joist, go perpindicular and create a nice foundation for the floor to attach too. <S> I would make sure the floor has a firm foundation. <S> It might be extra work to do it, but I would take those extra steps if possible. <A> Well, there really isn't a best answer, until you get into the job. <S> 1-good tools make a good job. <S> Buy or rent a compressor and a framing gun. <S> Buying the right tools will greatly decrease the amount of labor. <S> 2-if walls are installed on top of the particle voard, you have a code issue anyway. <S> No inspector would allow it today, especially on that crap. <S> It needs to be fixed. <S> Buy a few jacks and some 4x4's. <S> You can ballance the wall for a bit with these if you have to. <S> 3-yes, adding plywood on top will give you issues with the heights of the floors. <S> It's a pain, since many doors are hollow-core, so you can't just cut them off.. <S> So... Anything worth doing is worth doing right. <S> Good luck. <A> I have only worked on one house like this. <S> In any case, I have come across similar situations with rotted subfloors, etc... <S> Below is one solution - not ideal, but functional and relatively long lasting. <S> You could try: Pull up the existing flooring and baseboards in the room you are working in. <S> Try not to cut into the joists or blocking, so set your skillsaw depth carefully to 7/8". <S> Remove the subfloor in the room leaving the 1.5" strip on the edges. <S> Block the edges of the cut subfloor. <S> Install 3/4" T&G sanded subfloor plywood where the subfloor has been removed. <S> Use glue and screws. <S> The walls should be sitting either on joists or blocking, and nails should penetrate into the joist or blocking. <S> If not, you can use longer screws or lag bolts from underneath, two every sixteen inches to attach the wall. <S> Watch out for wires, pipes, etc... <S> Use a sander if the Particle board is slightly thicker than the new subfloor to level it out. <S> If it is thinner, you will need to use some sort of floor leveling compound. <S> Note that this is not really changing the structural rating of the existing floor - <S> but it is a working solution that will allow you to get your work done! <S> Good luck. <A> The cost to remove the subfloor was so high that it wouldn't be worth it. <S> It's been almost three years and no issues. <S> If it ever does start moving, yeah <S> I'll have a problem on my hands!
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I had the floors installed over the particle board. It will cost you more right now but it will pay off in the long run. To purchase, go to the pawn shops for good deals. If you cannot get the T&G in, you can block the edges of the plywood, and use regular plywood instead. And doorways, closet doors, etc. I talked to a house inspector in the area who has inspected almost 4000 houses, and he has seen this three times. Use a skillsaw to cut through the particle board ~1-1/2" from the walls (use a sawzall or something similar to finish cuts).
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Which tools should not be operated while wearing gloves? Does anyone know of any safety organization like OSHA that gives a list of tools that should not be operated while wearing gloves? It has always been my understanding that a person should not wear gloves when operating any rotating tool because of the danger of the gloves getting caught in the rotating part and breaking fingers or loosing a limb. Unfortunately the safety department does not agree with me and I am concerned for the safety of my crew. <Q> from OSHA Guide for Protecting Workers from Woodworking Hazards Hand and Arm Protection <S> Your workers' hands and arms will need protection from burns, bruises, abrasions, cuts, and exposure to the chemicals used in finishing. <S> Protective gloves are the primary means available for direct hand protection. <S> Extra-long gauntlets or sleeves attached to the gloves can extend protection up the arm. <S> However, the appropriateness of glove use in the woodworking workplace should be carefully reviewed on a task-by-task basis. <S> Gloves should not be worn when operating woodworking equipment due to the potential for getting caught in moving parts. <A> For Osha, I only see a chemical list for gloves, for tools <S> I don't see a list. <S> If you are required to wear gloves or other PPE, the company should have proper training and/or documentation for the use of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment). <S> I know it sounds kind of silly <S> (how do I use gloves) but it is required. <S> General Statement of Glove PPE from Osha <S> For hand protection, there is no ANSI standard for gloves <S> but OSHA recommends that selection be based upon the tasks to be performed and the performance and construction characteristics of the glove material. <S> For protection against chemicals, glove selection must be based on the chemicals encountered, the chemical resistance and the physical properties of the glove material. <S> http://www.osha.gov/Publications/osha3151.pdf <S> The above link/document has lots of details on PPE. <S> I don't think there is any hard rules on glove use. <S> For starters, whatever tool is being used, look at the manual to see if glove use is forbidden. <S> It should be clearly marked. <S> Usually there is a safety page that shows what PPE equipment should be employed for the operation of the tool. <S> Also, as others have pointed out in the comments, use a glove that fits and is right for the job at hand. <A> You absolutely do not wear gloves while using rotating power tools. <S> The caveat to this rule is tools with 2 handles like chainsaws and metabos. <S> I don't care what OSHA says, gloves near a drill press, lathe, table saw, etc are a recipe for disaster. <S> There are some garments filled with string that will cause a saw to snag and stop. <S> These garments are used with chainsaws as far as I know. <S> But they're not gloves. <S> This is common knowledge. <S> Gloves won't protect you from a saw blade. <S> They may make an accident worse. <A> The Operators Manual of each piece of equipment will tell you what PPE to wear and what NOT to wear. <A> Recently they ask me about this, an older employee told me he has never use gloves while operating a circle saw or a grinder because he feels the the use of gloves increases the risk of your hands getting caught in, but with every incident involving rotating saws or machinery I fell the need of asking certain questions, If your hand got caught up by the saw you don't think maybe that happened because you didn't have proper distance from the rotating wheel? <S> Or were you wearing the right glove? <S> It wasn't the glove that cause the accident right? <S> My employer requires everybody to use gloves while cutting anything. <S> I think the problem is that maybe sometimes we didn't learn the proper way to use tools and we have been using them the same way for so long that when we get told or suggest to use it in a different way, we don't take it <S> so well, I'm not saying you're right or wrong <S> but if what their telling me is gonna keep me safe <S> I wouldn't hesitate in doing it. <A> We are a metal fabrication shop and drill presses are a big useage. <S> We always had a policy to not wear gloves during drill press operation and recently adopted a policy that allowed the skin tight type of neoprene gloves. <S> The operators like it for the fact it will prevent the flutes from scratching their hands and they have good grip opposed to bare oily skin. <S> What legislation says regarding this I would like to know. <A> Wearing gloves and using any rotating power tool can be hazardous to life and limb. <S> Don't take short cuts. <S> Use two hands on the tool and if a piece of the work is expected to fall away, use something to restrict the fall away. <A> TO handle piece of work @ <S> bit Drill hand glove may be hazardous by to aovid any cut or hand injury from waste cutting chips and sharp edge ,neoprene hand gloves should be worn
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Unless it's a low rpm meat slicer, and your gloves are chain mail, you don't wear gloves while using rotational power tools. Check the Owners/Operators Manual for each specific tool you are concerned about. Secure the work in or to a vice, or some other apparatus before grinding, or cutting on the work with a cutting wheel.
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Should I create my own faucet aerator? I installed some new "fancy" faucet , and am quite happy with it, except it lacks an aerator, and water easily splashes out of the sink. Obviously, this faucet is calling for an aerator. Unfortunately, the manufacturer doesn't sell aerators for this model, and my local hardware store doesn't carry any that would fit the rectangular end of the faucet (see picture below). Short of replacing the faucet, how would you deal with this? Can I build myself a custom aerator? If so, how? <Q> <A> I'm a bit concerned that maybe the manufacturer tried, but never got a good aerator working on that shape spout. <S> If you want to try, first take apart a typical aerator and see how it works. <S> There's usually several stainless steel screens stacked on top of eachother. <S> Plus, there's a plastic flow-evener. <S> You can buy stainless steel screen on eBay in big chunks, so that's not a problem. <S> You'd cut them all in the same shape, but some cut on a diagonal. <S> You just need to figure out the grid size for the screen, which you can look-up on wikipedia. <S> You might get a rectangular bit of plastic and drill holes in it to make the flow-evener (creativity required here) <S> and you would need a picture frame shaped object that would be the last bit to go in. <S> That would hold the stainless steel screens you cut and your plastic flow-evener assembly. <S> Probably your biggest problem will be having a way to introduce the assembly into the spout so you can insert it and remove it, but not have it pop off when the water gets turned on. <S> If you don't mind drilling holes in your spout, you could get some small stainless steel screws to hold the assembly in place. <A> My suggestion might be cheapest and simplest of all. <S> Turn the tap on full blast. <S> Now reach under the sink, and adjust both shut-off valves evenly until the pressure is low enough to stop the splash-over. <S> Done. <A> Purchase a heavy-duty stainless steel cooking strainer, cut and remove the mesh and cut a 3" strip, fold in half and insert into the end of the square faucet. <S> This is going to do the job of the aerator.
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I found a company named Neoperl that makes a rectangular aerator which is what I believe you need:
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Can I convert a radiator to radiant floor heating in a room? I am purchasing a new home, and designing some renovations to several rooms. The house has a gas boiler and radiators throughout the house. For the kitchen and upstairs bathroom, I will be putting in tile flooring. To save space, I am wondering if installing PEX tubing for radiant floor heating using the supply and return from the radiator is a possibility. Can this be simply installed in place of a radiator, or does the entire radiant floor heating system (thermostats, control modules, etc.) need to be installed as well? <Q> You may be able to use the existing radiator piping to some extent, but a number of other changes will be required: Lower water temperature. <S> Because the radiant heating runs under your entire floor, it is typically run at a temperature similar to a hot summer day (around 85 degrees Fahrenheit). <S> Cast iron radiators are usually run at around 150 degrees F, which would be painfully hot to stand on. <S> According to this piping schematic from hydronicpros.com <S> the device that can both control your boiler and mix water for a lower-temperature section is called a "variable speed pump mixing control". <S> System balance. <S> Changing the way a room is heated may take it out of balance with the rest of your home, leading it to get too hot or too cold. <S> You'll want to get a professional to assess whether this will require additional thermostats / control modules, or whether there's a simpler way to balance things. <S> Under-floor access. <S> I don't think you can do that without access from underneath. <S> Probably not a problem for your kitchen but may add some work for the upstairs bath. <S> Correction 2 Feb 2012: <S> Actually, there are hydronic systems that can be installed above an original subfloor (inside a newly poured cement layer, under tile). <S> These may cost more and would likely change the level of your floor, but are worth considering. <S> One alternative you may want to consider is electric radiant heating. <S> The mats can be custom made to the shape of your room, e.g. to flow around a kitchen island. <S> The system will come with a temperature sensor and control that is typically mounted in a wall box next to the light switches for the room. <S> In this case, you'd simply remove the radiators, and use electric heat for those rooms instead. <A> I have done this to some of my renovations <S> and I was able to do two types of installation. <S> One was to save space in a bathroom with a radiator and the other was to save space in the kitchen just like you stated. <S> I ran the pex (has to be heating PEX with oxygen barior) straight from the supply and back to the return of the existing radiator pipes. <S> I first mounted reflective insulation to each joist bay leaving 1-2" gap between it and the new subflooring. <S> I then zig zagged the PEX through each joist by mounting it with clips close to the top of each joist so that it would be as close as possible to the new subflooring (new plywood). <S> I then did my cement board and layed my tile. <S> It worked well enough to heat the small bathroom with no problems. <A> One partial answer is to deliberately decouple the pex from the floor. <S> E.g. if you have a crawl space, mount the pex a couple inches below the subfloor. <S> Fill in the joist space below with paperbacked 4" insulation bats. <S> (Less if you want the crawl space warmed.) <S> The Pex now warms the air, which in turn warms the subfloor. <S> This gives more even heating, but the floor does respond as fast to thermostat changes
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So if you are keeping any radiators, your system will need to support running at multiple temperatures. Electric radiant is available in mats that are layered with thinset between the subfloor and tile. For hot water radiant heat, you'll need to install PEX on the underside of the subfloor.
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What is the best way to patch 3" holes in plaster I have a number of ~3" holes in my plaster from where my walls were filled with insulation. (Why did they drill a 3" hole? I have no idea). Obviously I would like to fill these holes in, but they have no lathing behind them, and I'm not sure what is the best way to fill them in is. Here is what the holes look like: <Q> This question is very similar to this question: <S> How Do I Fix a Hole <S> In Drywall <S> There are some good answers posted, so it is worth a read. <S> To build on those answers for this particular case, I would recommend the medium size hole fix. <S> The only difference is since the hole is on the small side, trying to screw the new 3" circular piece may crack or break it in half or in pieces, so my recommendation is to glue it to the strapping or backing material using gorilla glue or similar. <S> Just make sure the new piece doesn't stick out of the existing wall. <S> If you can make it slightly less than the existing wall, that would be optimal, and then you can just fill in the depression with mud/spackle. <S> If the plaster is painted, you can use mud to fill in, it doesn't have to be plaster as the paint will cover it over. <S> It looks to be painted, so standard mud/spackle should work out fine. <A> Lath and plaster openings can be repaired without the typical crack at the perimeter that is usually a result of inexperienced repairs. <S> Lath and plaster consists of plaster board and plaster applied over the board. <S> Take a hammer and chisel and carefully chip the old plaster off the board behind it; leaving at least 1" of exposed board around the perimeter of the opening. <S> Cut a piece of expanded metal lath to fit over the entire opening and slowly screw it onto the board using short drywall screws. <S> Apply a thin coat of quick patch plaster over the metal lath and allow to set. <S> Apply a second coat of quick patch plaster to completely fill the hole and shave the surface flush to the surrounding wall using the edge of a trowel; (perpendicular to the wall). <S> Clean excess plaster film from the surrounding wall. <S> Allow the second coat to harden, then mix a little more plaster in a very wet form, (almost like paint),and apply tightly over the patch. <S> Allow to set .. then mist the patch with water and trowel smooth using a little pressure as you do it. <S> The result should be smooth and it will not crack. <A> Either go to your hardware store and they sell patch kits or cut out a strip in your sheet rock wall from stud to stud and get a piece of sheet rock, make sure its the same thickness <S> so measure it be for you go to the hardware store and cut the same size you cut from your wall and nail it to the studs, plaster/mud over the cut marks, retexture and paint and your done <S> , I know it sounds like a lot of work but its actually pretty easy. <A> Use a small strip of 1/4 inch plywood as backing, insert it into the hole and screw in place with drywall screws. <S> It doesn't have to fill the hole completely. <S> Then fill the hole with setting type joint compound with 90 mins set time. <S> When mixing the mud with water, add some concrete adhesive to it.
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If it is unfinished plaster, then fill in with plaster as the finish will be the same.
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Can I replace an electric smoke detector with a combined smoke and carbon monoxide (CO) detector? My house has electric smoke detectors wired into an ADT alarm system. I'm not using the alarm system but the smoke detectors seem to work anyway. I'd like to have carbon monoxide detectors too. Can I replace the existing electric detectors with ones that detect carbon monoxide too? Or do should I just screw a battery powered one onto the ceiling next to the existing smoke detector? <Q> In our area, local codes made at least one CO detectors mandatory in all condos and rental units. <S> I have had to replace dozens of standard smoke detectors with combo units in hard wired/battery back-up systems. <S> Most every manufacturer makes a CO/Smoke unit that will plug in directly to the existing system. <S> Having the system monitored or not monitored makes absolutely no difference on how the system works inside the house. <S> All monitored systems will work fine in the house even if the monitoring system is off. <A> If you want to keep the system working with the alarm system, then you'll need to replace with a compatible combo device. <S> If you no longer care about the alarm system integration, then just rip it out and replace with a combo, which would probably be cheaper. <S> The advantage of the alarm system integration (even if it's no longer linked to ADT), is that in the event of a fire you'll probably get whole-house alarming instead of <S> just the alarm detecting the fire going off. <S> That's a BIG benefit, and it probably makes replacing the alarm with a compatible combo unit worth the while. <A> Can I replace the existing electric detectors with ones that detect carbon monoxide too? <S> Just to clarify, they all don't need to be one or the other, you can mix and match. <S> The advantage of a hardwired system is that any unit detecting any hazard that it is designed to detect alerts all of the units. <S> So you can put ( <S> smoke +) <S> CO detectors close to the potential sources of CO, where there will be the highest concentration. <S> The interconnected units will already be providing a "sympathetic" alarm long before the CO concentration in more "remote" locations is sufficient to directly trigger a detector there. <S> If you're worried about the possibility of that single CO detector failing, you can always put a second combination unit as a "backup" in another strategic location, like the bedroom area.
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So, for example, if the only potential source of CO in your house is a furnace and water heater in the basement, you can put a combination smoke+CO detector in the basement and smoke-only detectors in the other hardwired locations. A hard wired replacement is far better than a stand alone battery operated unit, as it will alarm all units in the system if there is a problem.
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Do I need to glue down linoleum flooring? I am installing a new linoleum floor in a small bathroom (approx. 6' X 6'). This is a replacement for an old linoleum floor. The replacement will be a single piece. Talking with the local big box store flooring expert, he recommended not gluing it down. It would be tempting to not glue it down since the linoleum floor will be a single piece and will be held down on all sides. But while I would love to make things easier for myself and not use glue, I am not so sure this is a good idea. Would it be a bad idea to not glue down the linoleum floor? <Q> There is a whole new generation of fiberglass, not vinyl, flooring that is self laying. <S> The various manufacturers say wit will lay flat, not curl or bubble without adhesive. <S> I have my doubts, but admit I have not used it without adhesive. <S> The manufacturer does says that when adhesive is used, it can only be "Releasable Pressure Sensitive Adhesive", never standard vinyl sheet goods adhesive. <S> In a small room like you have, I'd test the no glue theory. <A> Make sure you have the right vinyl flooring that does not require glue/adhesive <S> and you do decide to use the adhesive make sure it is the releasable pressure sensitive adhesive. <S> Good luck <A> The "free floating" sheet vinyl works fine <S> , I've laid it a few times and have never had a complaint... <S> pretty quick and easy as well. <S> If you want to use an adhesive, which is most likely the smart thing to do for added longevity and protection against natural movement/wrinkles, you do not want to perimeter adhere. <S> You must use adhesive over the entire subfloor for it to properly lay. <S> And, as previous posts have mentioned, with the fiberglass backing you must use a pressure sensitive adhesive. <A> With the fiberglass free-laying lino we always glue the perimeter. <S> Have also always used the 3M brand spray adhesive for this.
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If it doesn't work well, it's easy enough to go back and glue it down with pressure sensitive adhesive.
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How can I remove this valve? I am trying to replace the valve connecting the water line to the sink in my bathroom. The piping and sink were installed in 1975. I'm stuck trying to remove the valve under the sink (see picture below). When I try to unscrew the valve it will rotate but it's not actually unscrewing from the water line. I thought maybe I needed two wrenches (one on the nut closet to the pipe and one on the valve itself). But if they do rotate independently then I couldn't break the seal. Is there some trick to getting this model of valve off? I tried searching online but I just cant find any info. Likely Im just butchering the terminology quite a bit which is hurting the search. I'm quite a bit new at doing this type of project so its possible I'm looking right past the obvious. <Q> While I hate plumbing, I do quite a lot for close friends and family. <S> I don't know exactly what you are doing, <S> but I know a couple of things, and I hope these will help. <S> When you loosen the gland nut closest to the wall, you probably need to turn it clockwise. <S> Normally when you loosen something, you usually go counter-clockwise. <S> In this case the nut stays on the pipe, not the valve. <S> Always you a back wrench <S> like you were talking about to keep from twisting the pipe. <S> Here's a You Tube video that shows it. <S> I hope that this helps and is not exactly what you have done before. <S> Did I say I hate plumbing? <A> Cut the copper line as close to the offending valve as possible and solder a new 1/4 turn ball valve with a 3/8" male threaded end in it's place. <S> Now you can use standard flex supply lines if you like. <S> Sometimes the hardest route is actually the easiest way. <A> You shouldn't need to completely take the nut off in order to slip the valve off, in the event its stripped or otherwise damaged.
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It looks like a compression fitting, in which case, you loosen the nut and pull it off.
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Why does the main circuit breaker trip but not the smaller branch circuit breakers? We have one circuit breaker (40 A) where our electrical service enters our house, then it is divided into a 32A line for level one and a 25A for level two.The main circuit breaker (40A) trips every several hours, but the other two circuit breakers (the 32A and the 25A) don't trip. I am thinking the problem is that the 32A breaker and the 25A breaker makes 57A, which is bigger than the 40A main breaker. Am I right? Should the total rating of the different circuit breakers in one system be less than the rating of the main circuit breaker? <Q> The two branch circuit breakers will trip if the load on their protected circuit is greater than 32 amperes, and 25 amperes respectively. <S> However, since the main breaker trips at 40 amperes. <S> If both branch circuits are pulling a full load the branch circuit breakers will not trip, but the combination of the loads will trip the main breaker (32 + 25 = 57 <S> > 40 as you have said). <S> It's a very common situation to have the branch circuit breakers total more than the main breaker, but this is almost never a problem since the circuits usually don't pull a full load. <S> Remember, circuit breakers are there to protect the wires. <S> They shut off the power if you are drawing enough power to damage the wire, so installing a larger main breaker is likely not an option (unless you contact your power company and have the service upgraded, which will include upgrading the feeder cable). <S> Contact your local power company, and speak to them about a service upgrade. <S> Other than plugging less stuff in, or cycling loads, there is not much you can do yourself in this situation. <A> There are 2 situations where the main breaker could trip before the branch breakers: <S> As others have mentioned, the main is sized less than the sum of the branches; if all the branches pull heavy loads, you can exceed the main without exceeding the branches, and the main will trip. <S> If this is the cause, you can; Accept the overload, and be ready to flip your main breaker when it happens. <S> Decrease your load, including managing loads between the two floors so you don't overload. <S> Have the power company upgrade your service. <S> In my area, they would replace the wires to the street, and I would put in a larger breaker, and they would charge me a higher monthly fee. <S> Upsize the main breaker (say, to 50A) without changing the service. <S> This is dangerous (it can allow overcurrent on the feeder wires, leading to a fire), inefficient (heavy loads will cause a more loss to heat on the feeder wires), and (in my area) illegal. <S> In a short circuit, multiple breakers are overloaded at the same time. <S> Which one trips first has nothing to do with the load rating of the breaker. <S> AFAIK, it's not normally predictable, although in hospitals they carefully select breakers so that branches will trip before main breakers in the case of a short, since a main breaker tripping is much worse than an annoyance. <S> If you are experiencing a short in the system, you should address the cause of the short. <A> Typically your master breaker is sized to be less then the sum of all of the sub breakers. <S> The reason for this is in a typical house, you don't pull the maximum current from all branches at once. <S> However, this setup does allow for the situation that you are running into where your master breaker can trip even though none of the sub breakers have tripped. <S> There is nothing unsafe about this setup, but as I am sure you are aware, it can be very annoying to have the whole house loose power. <S> In order to deal with this, you should look into what exactly it is that is happening to trip the main breaker. <S> For example, is it the AC kicking on while a refrigerator is running? <S> Or is there some other circumstance that causes the breaker to trip? <S> Once you figure out what this situation is, you will know if it is possible to just avoid pulling too much power. <S> If you do need to be able to pull more power, you will need to look into the specs of your distribution panel. <S> It could be that it is not capable of handling more than 40 amps. <S> Or potentially, depending on your location, the main service lines can't handle more than 40 amps. <S> It is difficult to tell you what your situation can handle, but this is the path you will need to look into. <A> The pros I know usually replace them after the first time they trip but definitely after the third time.
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Breakers trip easier the next time after each time they are tripped. Solving the problem may be as simple as replacing the circuit breaker with a new 40 amp breaker.
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When I turn on my light switch, there is a delay before the light comes on We have a ceiling fan light. One swith controls the fan, the other the light. When I turn on the light switch, there is a noticable delay (like a full second) before the light comes on. Is it a wiring issue? I notice no blinking, no other problems, just the delay. <Q> This is one of those problems that you just have to work out systematically, don't be swayed by logic. <S> If there is only one bulb change it. <S> Check the wiring at the light and switch - see that the connections are tight. <S> Change the switch. <S> Try wiring a test lamp to the fixture. <S> Call an electrician. <A> Also don't rule out the fan. <S> I've installed one fan that had a rather large capacitor on the light circuit. <S> Not sure of the reason of the capacitor but that light had a small delay when turned on. <A> I was using incandescent bulbs. <S> I returned the dimmer switch to home depot and got a regular "for incandescent only" dimmer switch and the problem went away. <A> I had the same issue with a combination switch with a Hunter fan. <S> My delay for the light to come on was several minutes and then sometimes the light would flash like a strobe light. <S> After reading comments from this site I decided to purchase another Hunter fan and see what happens. <S> I connected the fan and light. <S> It now comes on instantly without any delay. <S> I have another fan/light combo in another room. <S> The delay is only a couple of seconds but no other problem. <S> My suggestion is to purchase a new light/fan if you are having the same problems that I was. <S> Not sure if it is safe to keep using it like mine was operating. <S> Apparently there was some regulation about delays that I have read in some other sites.
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I had this problem with an dimmer switch designed for use with LED and CF bulbs. You may have serious wiring issues.
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How do I corner bead around two layers of 5/8" drywall? Here it is: I still have yet to shave down the rough edges from when I scored and snapped it, but, after that, what can I use for corner bead? It's entirely possible that I will end up putting up a second layer perpendicular to these two layers so that I will be able to use regular corner bead, but, if I don't need to then I will need to find some way to finish this corner. <Q> Next time (if there is a next time) maybe stagger the sheets? <A> I was able to find up to <S> 2 1/2" wide corner bead at Home Depot . <S> According to my calculations (5/8" + 5/8" + ~1/2" = 1 3/4"), this should be more than wide enough to cover your corners. <S> The nice thing about paper-faced/backed corner beads, is that you don't have to use nails or screw to install them. <S> You install them the same way you would tape a normal seam. <S> Cut the corner bead to length. <S> Apply a layer of mud (joint compound) with a taping knife to the corner (both sides). <S> Firmly press the corner bead into the mud. <S> Allow mud to dry. <A> I'd be tempted to cut back your double sheets 1/2" to 3/4", make sure the resulting pocket was relatively square (or rectangular), and then screw a piece (or pieces) of scrap wood (ripped down to the right size) into the gap. <S> Then tape and cornerbead the whole deal. <A> I am a commercial gc. <S> We use double 5/8 regularly. <S> Forget about the staggered rock and all that. <S> To make it easy on yourself. <S> It will give you a wider metal face and have paper drywall tape attached to prevent crack throughs. <S> Attach it with spray 90 spray adhesive and then reinforce with staples or screws. <S> Not nails. <S> They will pop and leave you having to constantly repair the corner. <S> Screws <S> you can feel if they catch the stud or not. <S> Happy mudding.
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You could drill diagonal pilot holes and get the screws to engage the stud. Then you end up with a regular, 1 sheet corner. Leave Home Depot, go to a building supply and ask for oversized metal corner paper faced.
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What should I do about my toilet flapper sticking open? The flapper valve in the toilet in my apartment was recently replaced, since it had a small leak. The new one has a perfectly good seal, but sometimes just gets stuck open. It looks like it's just gripping a bit too tightly on the hinge - when it tries to close, it moves partway down and just hangs there, and a little jiggle of the lever is enough to make it drop. What should I do about it? <Q> If you purchased one of the generic replacements, they usually come with both the slide on and hinge mounting rubber parts attached. <S> If your mounting is the two side pin type, then you must cut the connecting tabs of rubber that hold the slide on rubber ring, and discard it. <S> If you slide the flapper on with the ring and also use the side hinges, it will not work properly. <S> You can only use one mount type.. <S> slide on or side hinge. <S> Hope <S> this is your situation, easy fix. <A> It didn't take much to get it moving smoothly - they didn't seem very rough before I sanded, and I didn't widen them very much. <A> Add weight to the flapper: find a half-inch nut, remove the chain from the lever, put the chain up through the nut and re-attach it to the lever. <S> The chain will keep the nut from getting in the way of closure. <A> The flapper didn't close completely or just hang open due to the lack of weight if momentum is the factor. <S> I added some necklace chain or coin to help while the flapper dropped.
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I ended up just pulling the valve off and sanding inside the snap-on hinge bits.
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Why do I need 4-conductor cable to my generator? Why do I need all 4 wires in my generator twistlock? The generator neutral and ground are bonded. I have installed a Siemens 3-pole transfer switch, but would prefer to use 3 wire extension from the generator to the transfer switch. (mainly cause the 4 wire is so big and bulky) <Q> This depends on whether your neutral-to-ground bonding is before or after the transfer switch. <S> If the transfer switch is your service entrance, you can bond neutral to ground there (on the common side, after the switch, inside the transfer switch enclosure), and do switching only for the hot conductors. <S> You can't mix by having the utility power be one way (for example 4-wire) <S> and the generator be another way (3-wire) because you can't switch the bonding. <S> It has to be either both 3-wire or both <S> 4-wire coming up to the transfer switch. <S> Edit: since you have bonding at the entrance and at the generator, you need to switch the neutral in the transfer switch. <S> Because of that you need 4 wires from both sources in order to keep the neutral and ground separated so the two bondings are never connected together by more than one wire <S> (it will be the ground wire). <A> I assume you are referring to a home installation, as it would be a somewhat different answer if this was in an industrial situation. <S> I believe you will find that neutral and ground are not bonded within the generator, therefore the 4 lines. <S> The only place it should be bonded is at the Main Service Panel. <S> The neutral is a current carrying conductor, ground is not! <S> Lets say you have a high load (or short) that the Main panel sees. <S> The neutral potential to ground can be as high as the Main voltage (120V or 220V)! <S> If it were bonded at the generator and you were touching it at that instant, you're dead! <S> The ground is never switched by the transfer switch, only the main conductors (& sometimes neutral). <S> I suggest you check the NEC and local codes before you proceed. <S> Also do not bond neutral and ground at the transfer panel, or any sub panels! <S> This link shows the transfer switch wiring. <S> It also says that some Transfer switches do not switch the neutral leg. <S> Yours is three pole so it would. <S> EDIT: <S> Please read Since yours has bonding at the Gen, and you are switching the neutral you're okay. <S> This article expresses the same concerns I listed above. <A> It's done just like your house. <S> You only have 3 wires coming into house. <S> The receptacle is probably a NEMA L14-30R <S> our maybe 50 amp. <S> At work we have a designated ground rod for our's which we attach to the frame. <S> If it set up correctly coming in it will be set up correctly going out. <S> Also you can't switch your neutral with the xfer switch.
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If neutral is bonded to ground before the transfer switch, then all points beyond the point of bonding are now 4-wire, and a transfer switch must switch both hots and also the neutral (not the ground wire).
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What should I consider when burying cable? What should I consider when burying standard coaxial cable between the local pole and my house? <Q> If you want to bury the cable directly in the ground then you need to use direct burial-grade cable and not "standard" cable, otherwise you need to use conduit. <S> First you need to consider the distance to the poll. <S> Depending on the distance and use of the cable, you might be able to use RG6, but you also might need to use RG11. <S> should you do any yard work. <S> They are usually a couple feet deep, but it depends on climate and location. <S> the last thing you want is to break a gas line or an electrical feed (ZAP!). <S> Leave yourself plenty of slack (service loops) at both ends of the cable. <S> Overtime the ends will get cut and replaced over and over, and you need some extra cable allow for this. <S> You might want to check to see if your cable provider will even allow this, often they handle the last-mile connection to your demark. <S> Because cable is "shared", <S> a crummy installation on your end can cause issues for other customers. <A> Depending on your climate one thing you'll have to consider is <S> frost/ice heave. <S> I live in Ohio <S> so we have to dig down a number of inches (not sure what code for cable is <S> but I know for deck posts it's 32 inches). <S> I'm not sure if ice/frost will damage a cable but most likely it would over time. <A> The cable from the pole to your home typically belongs to the cable company. <S> They typically install a temporary line to get your service active and make sure your TV/internet works inside, and then have the land marked for utilities and get some cheap labor to bury the line with conduit. <S> They don't want to wait for the underground lines to be marked to get you back up, and they don't want to pay the more expensive technician to dig a trench, so <S> it's two separate jobs done at different times.
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You want to bury it deep enough that you won't cut it with a shovel Their demarcation point should be the outside of your home. Make sure to call your utility company (usually your gas company) and have them come out and mark all burried cables/gas lines BEFORE you start digging -
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How can I protect my hardwood floors from water damage? I just bought a home with hardwood floors everywhere, including the bathrooms. While this is nice, I worry that they will be damaged by constant exposure to water. Is there anything I can do to protect them, besides high quality bath mats? <Q> We also have a wood floor in our bathroom. <S> I placed a plastic bathtub mat on the floor in front of the shower and then placed a bathmat over it. <S> After 17 years, we have some damage to the floor, but mostly in the areas just outside of the mat area. <A> Wood constantly moves by expansion and contraction which varies with humidity and moisture. <S> There is no "sealant" that I know of that would prevent this natural movement and the cracks between the planks from opening and closing as a result. <S> Wax will protect the surface finish, but make them slippery unless you use a non-slip formula. <S> The only recourse is to use bathmats (as you've already identified) and wipe up the floor if you should splash water on them. <S> Just be careful with the combination of cloth bathmat and waxed floor. <S> Some may change the sheen of the floor (dull it) and leave an outline of the mat/rug. <A> Keep a good coat of wax on them. <S> Clean up water ASAP <A> This is a good one. <S> I find that rather than just getting a bath mat, it might be best to get a large piece of rubber that can be placed under the mat to keep it in place. <S> It may also help to cover your floor with a strong varnish or something like wax, this can help keep the floor better for longer and protect from thing like water.
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Also be careful of leaving rubber backed bath mats on the floor finish.
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Driveway expansion joints are rotting wood: What to replace the wood? My driveway was poured in sections with lengths of 2x4 which remained between the slabs as expansion joints. Due to heaving and moisture many of these are in poor shape. I replaced one once by carefully carving a 2x4 on a table saw to fit the oddly shaped gap, but I'd like a better solution. Is there some pourable product I can use to replace these joints? Should I just grout them now with additional concrete? <Q> This is what you do: Get the wood out Clean the top 3/4" of the interior walls of the joint with a wire brush Install "closed cell" backer rod into the joint. <S> You want it to be about 1/8"-1/4" larger than the joint. <S> Roll it down in from the side is easiest. <S> The top of the rod should be about 3/4" below the top of the concrete. <S> Blow the crack out with a leaf blower. <S> (the backer rod should fit tight enough to stay in place as long as you dont blast it head on) <S> The best thing is probably Dow 888 silicone but its very expensive. <S> Urethanes are cheaper and almost as good. <S> Sika brand Sikaflex 1a or Sonneborn brand NP1 are great Caulk depth in the center of the joint should be 1/2 the width of the joint but no deeper than 1/2". <S> People are tempted to think deeper is better but it will cause bubbling and premature failure. <S> If it is too thick it will not stretch easily and therefore pull away from the concrete. <S> Tooling the caulk is necessary. <S> It will force the caulk into the pores of the concrete and it will smooth out lumpiness. <S> Use a metal or rubber spatula or a tablespoon. <S> Self levelling urethanes are available but the have the consistency of pancake batter so your joints have to be pretty level to use it. <S> You'll also have to dam up the ends of your joints. <S> Plus you will have to be on the lookout for rain, bugs, and blowing leaves for a couple of hours after you finish. <S> 2x4s are a lousy choice for expansion joint because they are so wide. <S> You are going to use a lot of caulk. <A> A quick Google search for concrete joint sealer turns up loads of products, most of which seem to be Polyurethane Epoxy. <S> I haven't done enough of this type of work to recommend one brand over another, though I'm sure an employee of your local hardware store will have an opinion. <S> When sealing the joint, you'll want to pay attention to the depth to width ratio. <S> The manufacturer of the product you've chosen should recommend the proper ratio for the product, which will usually be between 1:2 and 3:2. <S> You can use foam "backer rod" or "filler rope", to achieve the proper depth to width ratio. <A> Definately do not use concrete to fill the gap. <S> Concrete expands and contracts depending on the temperature so using a hard substance will cause further cracking, expansion joints are critical between slabs. <S> The options are: Replace the wood with wood <S> Use a Joint Sealer <S> With either option, try and pick a time of the year when it is colder. <S> Hotter days the concrete will expand, so you want to do the work when the concreate is at its "smallest". <S> If you go the wood option, get a product that has been rated for ground contact as it should last longer.
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Use professional grade urethane or silicone caulk for concrete. I have been caulking expansion joints in concrete for 15 years.
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My fridge runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level? My refrigerator runs way too much - is this because it doesn't seem to be level? It doesn't seem to be any other reason. <Q> A fridge motor is controlled by a thermostat - a device that reacts to temperature inside the fridge. <S> So fridge motor starts/stops are completely agnostic to whether the fridge is level, the only practical consequence of fridge being non-level is extra noise. <S> The most likely reason for fridge motor running too often are the following: loose gasket around the door - as the fridge gets older the gasket loses shape and no longer seals the interior letting cold air out and warm air in. <S> This is addressed by replacing the gasket. <S> users putting hot stuff in - the fridge has to run for a long time to cool down a glass of hot water or a hot pan, only room-temperature or colder stuff should be put into the fridge to avoid that users opening the door too often <A> Some additional reasons a fridge may be running too much, beyond what sharptooth posted:: Thermostat may be set very low: check recommended temperature level for the kinds of food you want to store. <S> Thermostat or temperature sensor may be damaged or in need of maintenance. <S> Also, I know it's recommended for a fridge to have a certain amount if clearance behind, around, and underneath. <S> If it is too close to the back wall or there is a bunch of junk under/around it preventing proper circulation, it can adversely affect it. <S> I am not sure if this will cause it to run more, or just be less efficient. <A> In this case, it's probably time to buy a new refrigerator. <A> According to this info some low energy designs rely on long run times. <S> I suggest to check the actual power usage of the device during a couple of days. <S> http://www.geappliances.com/search/fast/infobase/10003646.htm <A> If you've noticed a change in performance, the coil is dirty; you've got to clean it. <S> At the very least it's time to take the faceplate off the bottom and give it a wipe. <S> Check the back side too, which is also guaranteed to be covered in fuzz . <A> To answer the other part of the question: Being absolutely level is not required. <S> If it's more than a few degres you might want to check with the manufacturer to get actual specs for this model, but the designers are very aware that nothing in a house is perfectly square or level after a few decades.
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If it's an old refrigerator, the sealed unit could be leaking refrigerant.
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Could a power outlet be ruining hair straighteners? I'm not sure if this is the right place to ask this. We've gone through 3 hair straighteners in the past 2 months. 3 different models, 2 different brands. The outlet is a normal outlet (No GFI) and one of the straighteners had a GFI plug. Other things like hair dryers and curling irons seem to be working fine, and holding up. I find it hard to believe that we've just happened to find 3 faulty products. What should I be testing for to see if the outlet could be causing the problem? Voltage on the outlet is right around 124v <Q> 124V is on the high side of "normal" for a U.S. outlet. <S> However, voltage determines amperage: I=V/R, so as V increases and R (resistance) stays constant through a circuit, I (current) will also increase. <S> There are voltage regulators you can buy for your entire house's wiring. <S> These regulators are basically a smaller version of the big grey can transformer on the power pole outside (or the big green box down the street or in someone's back yard); they will "step down" the power from the incoming line just that little bit more to put it between 110 and 120V, which is the "butter zone" for U.S. electrical. <S> When shopping for your next hair-straightener, look for one that is rated for 125V, or at least 120V. Appliances are commonly rated for 110V, which is the low side of U.S service voltage and may not handle a "hotter" electrical region. <A> If you can change a receptacle then change the receptacle. <S> Maybe instead of buying a residential rated receptacle try a commercial receptacle. <S> There could be some arcing or something like that in the old receptacle that electronics don't like. <S> The commercial receptacle is heavy duty with beefier contacts where the plug meets the receptacle. <S> Also, make sure the straightener is not more than 1800 watts. <S> That's the limit on a 15 amp receptacle. <S> At least it's cheaper. <A> Your voltage is perfect. <S> I work for the local power company and we set our line regulators at 125v nominal with 130 being on the high side and 118 on the low end. <S> Without being there, it's hard to tell. <S> Sometimes even being there, gremlins like this can be hard to track down. <S> Some things to look for. <S> Do you ever notice your incandescent lights getting extra bright? <S> Like a 60 watt bulb glowing like a 100 normally would? <S> This could indicate a neutral problem. <S> This will give you good voltage with little or no load, but with load, voltage could get rather high on one leg or side and rather low on the other. <S> This is something that you really need a savvy electrician to check out. <S> With it only happening to one appliance and not others makes it a real head scratcher. <S> Good luck!
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Most appliances should be able to handle that voltage, but some will not, at least not long-term. Maybe spending more on the receptacle will solve your problem. It's not so much voltage as amperage; the current flowing through a wire will create heat (the "toaster effect"). As always turn the breaker off and check with a plug in light.
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Can I make an existing dog door bigger for our new larger dog? We have an existing dog door that we had installed in the wall for our beagle. We have since acquired a larger dog and she has out grown the door. I'm worried about injuries, so any advice will be much appreciated. Can we make the existing door bigger? <Q> Usually, yes. <S> It's normally just a matter of removing the old door, cutting the hole bigger for the new one and installing the new one. <A> Yes, of course how much work it is depends on how big the door needs to be. <S> If the door needs to be wider than ~15 inches, you will most likely have to deal with studs (16" on center is standard) which can introduce a whole new, but not unsolvable, challenge. <S> Otherwise it is just a matter of cutting a bigger hole in the wall. <A> The short answer is yes, it can be made larger, but the complexity of this depends on a number of factors. <S> What is the exterior of your house? <S> Stucco can be cut through easily, brick would require a lot of chiseling How much larger is the new door? <S> If it exceeds the distance between studs (16"), then some additional framing is needed. <S> This might also be needed if the existing door is not centered in a stud (and say one side was a corner or could not otherwise be extended). <S> The location of the door. <S> Obstructions like plumbing or electrical will need to be relocated.
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The challenges come when your door has interesting features like inset panels, hardware, etc.
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Second layer of drywall on textured ceiling: Do I need to sand down or remove the texture before second layer goes on? I have a textured ceiling similar to this: Some of the texture peaks at 1/8", but it mostly peaks at 1/16". I am going to be applying a second layer of drywall with Green Glue in between and I want to know if all this texture has to be sanded down or scraped off before the second layer goes on. <Q> The point of Green Glue is to create a flexible layer of never fully firm glue between layers of drywall, right? <S> To absorb sound? <S> In which case, I think you'll need to first level the ceiling, then apply green glue, then apply your final layer. <S> Otherwise, if you green glue over top of the texture, you'll have high points in the texture that touch the new layer of drywall. <S> That will transfer sound quite effectively - which you don't want. <A> Like Karl, I just riped the drywall out completely rather than trying to fix it in my own home. <S> But if you go the pole sander route, then I'd measure out where the non-beveled joints are going to go (the 4' side of a 4x8 sheet) and just sand those areas, maybe 6" to either side of the joint. <S> The drywall will bend in slightly at the joint and you fill the whole space with joint compound. <S> Also take a flashlight at a hard angle to see if you can find where the current joints are. <A> I would remove it, then your drywall sandwich has no gaps between it and will allow for better attachment. <S> But its not popcorn <S> so it may not be as simple as a scrape with a trowel. <S> If it is really a bear to take off, you could try a test piece without removing it and see how it looks and attaches. <S> If the next ceiling is smooth, I would be somewhat concerned of noticeable peaks and valleys, but the only way to tell would be a test piece install. <A> It's not something you need to remove. <S> However, how thick is the drywall that you're putting up? <S> If it's 1/2 or 5/8", ok, but I'd be worried about how much weight you're adding. <S> If you're putting up 3/8 or if you managed to find some 1/4", you're going to show every bump and ridge beneath it. <S> You probably want to use half inch, and you might think about firring it out. <S> If you have to do anything, bow out in the middle of the board and then have your joints bow in. <S> I attempted to remove the same texture from drywall in my house, and it was a beast. <S> i was using a belt sander with a 50 grit belt and it still wouldn't smooth down. <S> I ended up tearing out the drywall and starting over.
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When you layout the new layer of drywall, stager the joints so you don't have two non-beveled joints on top of each other. Where you find the preexisting 4' ridges, sand them down. You still need to be aware of the slant of the ceiling to make sure that you don't bump outwards since that's hard to hide with compound.
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Why would lights plugged in to lamp holder outlet adapter be testing as live? We bought an old pendant light for our flat, with a two prong plug. Rather than rewiring it in to the existing outlet, I just bought one of those $2 lamp holder outlet adapter. To be on the safe side, I checked it with my contact volt tester, which lit up when it came within a few inches of the unit (not even in contact). I plugged the pendant in to a standard wall fixture and all was fine (no charge on the casing, the tester only lights up with contact on the cable). What's more, when I plugged our bedside lamp in to the ceiling adaptor the same thing happened - a good 2-3 inches out the fluke lit up. Is there something about those outlet adapters which may be causing the pendant and lamp to be live? Or perhaps the ceiling fixture is rated too high for the pendant and lamp? <Q> I would advise checking the wiring of the switch. <S> It sounds like it might be a case of the switch for the lamp is switching the neutral instead of hot. <S> The result of this is that when the switch is off, there is no visible light because there is no return path for the electricity (broken by the switch), but there is still eletricity making it up to the fixture. <A> It is posible that when the house was wired the light fixture was not switched. <S> The light was controlled with a pull chain. <S> If that is the case you would have power in the box with the switch off. <A> Another possibility not yet mentioned would be that some kinds of light switches will 99.9% interrupt current but still let through a tiny residual amount. <S> This is particularly true of electronic dimmers that don't use a neutral connection (many need a tiny amount of power for their control circuitry) and for self-illuminated light switches. <S> When using such a light switch, it would be normal for an open circuit to read "hot" all the time, but adding any sort of load should eliminate that effect. <S> For example, if you were to plug in a lamp then its power cord may read as "hot" when both the lamp and the wall switch are "off", but turning on the switch for the lamp itself should cause it to cease reading "hot" when the wall switch isn't on; turning on the wall switch should then cause it to read "hot" while also making the lamp glow. <S> If things behave as described here, especially if the wall switch is an electronic dimmer or a self-illuminated model, that would suggest that everything is fine.
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If a wall switch was added later they may wired the switch by breaking the hot wire inside the fixture mounting box.
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What preparation is required for tiling over poorly laid floor boards? 4" hardwood floor boards mounted on a poorly-designed frame made out of whatever wood the constructor had lying around it seems. There's a lot of bounce, some boards even drooping 1/2" when walking on them. I'm thinking of tiling over with 12" square tiles, maybe 16". I've never used self-leveling compound before. Would it be suitable to level the floor with this before lining it with 1/4" cement board prior to tiling, or would it seep through gaps between the floorboards? With the ceiling height already being illegally low at 7', I'm trying not to raise the height of the floor too much. <Q> Anything rigid you put over a flimsy structure will be destroyed over time because it won't have the support it needs. <S> Most tiles (except plastic/vinyl) don't handle bending well. <S> Self leveling compound doesn't add rigidity, it just makes a smooth top surface. <S> You need to fix the structure first. <S> That means going down before you go up. <A> Depending on how things are built, you may need to add more support to out the subfloor on. <S> I'd look at putting down 3/4" OSB and then tiling over the top of that. <A> You will need to take up the existing floor and replace with new ply or it will never hold the tile. <S> If hight is a issue you can put 1/2" sanded cdx to tile on instead of cbu board but will still need 3/4" unsanded ply under the 1/2".
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You must reinforce the existing structure to make a sound, fairly rigid subfloor before you put anything else down.
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What hardwood flooring is recommended for high traffic areas? I am having a house built and the developer wanted to charge me $10/sq ft for the cheapest $3/sq ft Bruce Oak, and more for anything better quality. There was no charge for Vinyl so, I had them put that in and figured I would get someone else to do the wood floors. I plan on having the foyer, dining room, kitchen and breakfast area done. These are all very heavy use areas. I expect lots of kids with shoes on. What is the best hardwood for my heavy use application? I don't mind spending the $10/sq ft for wood that's worth it. Edit: We have a wood subfloor. <Q> The answer is "it depends" -- on what you need, on how well it's cared for, and how often you want to refinish it. <S> Real wood is measured by something called the " Janka Hardness Scale " -- oak is a good choice, as it's rated at about 1300, with only more exotic woods being harder. <S> I was told that Oak would probably be scratched by my dogs' claws, though, and I imagine that the invariable stones stuck in kids shoes will be worse. <S> If it's possible, get real oak and make the kids take their grubby shoes off at the door... <S> :-P <S> The "engineered" hardwoods are better because they're cheaper, but worse because they're not able to be sanded smooth and refinished. <S> You'll usually see thicknesses plus a Janka measurement or an AC rating. <S> The thinner the veneer, the more likely you are to crack through it no matter what the hardness of the veneer or the AC rating of the floor are. <S> For 100% composite stuff, such as Pergo and Kronotex, you'll see hardness measured on an "AC" scale that's basically a designation for how much traffic the wood is designed to bear in a residential or commercial setting. <S> " <S> AC2/Moderate Residential" will be too soft for your needs. " <S> AC3 - Light Commercial/Heavy Residential" may be durable enough for your needs, but might show wear. " <S> AC4/Moderate Commercial" is most likely what you'll need to go with, and it's harder to find and more expensive. <S> However, it's less expensive than wood <S> is no matter what. <S> Two things you didn't say... <S> first, what kind of structure you're installing it on. <S> Is it a wood subsurface, or is it slab-on-grade or slab basement? <S> If it's on concrete in any way shape or form, you definitely want to go with something that is composite and less expensive. <S> I know that you CAN install wood on slab-on-grade, but I would never consider doing it, personally. <S> Second, what rooms is this going in? <S> Wood floorings, regardless of composite or engineered or natural, is not good in places that will receive water on the surface or may be exposed to leaks. <S> So the entry hall (front door and back), the kitchen, and the bathrooms are places to avoid having wood floors. <S> I would keep vinyl or tile in those areas, or explore the wood-grain ceramics that are becoming quite popular for those areas or over slab-on-grade. <A> Take a look at strand bamboo. <S> It is very hard, twice as hard as oak, and extremely resistant to scratches. <S> In two years of daily living, the only scratches we've had are where my toddler was jabbing and scratching with a screwdriver. <S> You will need a good saw and blade to make the cuts. <S> This stuff is very hard and will wear your blades out fast (even faster if they are cheap and/or low quality). <A> Consider that pre-finished flooring has a much more durable finish than finished-in-place flooring. <S> Pre-finished is a two-part system that hardens via chemical reaction, and is also impregnated with silica to make it very wear-resistant. <S> The down-sides are that it won't be flat, it will have cracks between boards, and you can't refinish it <S> (you just replace it). <A> No matter how durable the finish is, grit, stones, and water tracked onto a wood floor can cause premature wearing and scratching of the finish. <S> High heel shoes can indent the wood's surface. <S> Regularly vacuum the Hardwood flooring using a soft bristle brush and install <S> felt chair glides on the bottoms of all chairs and furniture. <S> Clean the wood flooring with a Hardwood floor cleaner formulated for that flooring. <S> We do not recommend using any oil soaps, furniture polish, or vinegar and water -- they can damage and dull the finish over time.
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To make the floors finish last the longest, we suggest using heavy mats outside all exterior doors with small rugs on the wood flooring at all entrances and in front of sinks and stoves. We installed the Morning Star Strand Carbonized Bamboo in most of our house and have been very happy with it.
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What to keep on the wooden table to make the surface heat resistant? Oven manual says - keep it on a heat resistant surface. I have a wooden table. What should I keep on the wooden table to make the surface heat resistant, so that the oven can placed on the top of it? Paper sheets won't work? Thick cloth? <Q> When we had a wooden table as a child for every day use, we kept a layer of tempered glass that sat up on silicone feet <S> so there was a thin air gap between the table and the glass. <S> The glass covered the entire surface of the table, so there was no risk of spills or hot items damaging the actual wood surface of the table. <S> I would look into something that definitely had an air gap below it. <S> A stone, ceramic, or glass cutting board (or a tile tray) with feet would work. <A> But if the oven has legs, then it is probably fine just standing on the table. <S> I'm thinking of a regular household toaster oven. <A> For your purposes, I'd get a wood or bamboo cutting board of and appropriate size, and keep it underneath. <S> It might get a little heat scarred from the toaster, but it won't catch fire, and it will protect the table.
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Something like a granite or other stone tile might work.
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How to tell if my new, unfurnished apartment has bed bugs? I just signed the lease on a new apartment in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I did so after looking up the address and seeing that it had been listed twice in the bed bug registry. In 2009, a tenant said a few units had been infested. In August 2010, a tenant said bed bugs had been seen in at least one of the top floor apartments (mine is on fl. 5 of 6). Nothing has been said about the building since. I have not yet moved in, and I don't have to move in for several weeks -- maybe even a month. Currently, the apartment is empty of all furnishings except a refrigerator. What can I do during the next few weeks to ensure the apartment is not infested? <Q> They get in small cracks (e.g. between the flooring and wall) and can survive for months. <S> Finding them by sight will be next to impossible. <S> But you could have a service inspect the place before you move in. <S> I think some use trained dogs that can smell them. <S> That said, no matter how careful you are, bedbugs can migrate through small cracks, vents, a shared laundry facility, etc. <S> So even if you don't have any before moving in, it's possible they will migrate to your unit once there's a food source (people). <A> They make kits that attract the bed bugs and trap them in a container so you can inspect it for their presence. <S> Bed Bug Detection Travel Kit <S> I have never used one of these <S> so I cannot vouch for their accuary. <S> However, I would not substitute this for a professional opinion in the event it is negative. <A> I will be trying this, or several of these DIY bed bug dry ice traps: http://bedbugger.com/2009/12/21/effective-cheap-diy-active-bed-bug-monitor/ <S> For more specific instructions on how to build the device, see here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JZx3GrQCE0 <S> Any suggestions on how to make this device more effective would be appreciated!
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Bed bugs are hard to see.
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How should I go about fixing a faulty 240 V Electrical Outlet This afternoon, my wife and I noticed a peculiar smell coming from the garage. We localized it to a faulty 3-wire 240 V outlet. Something got really hot resulting in part of the rubber melting on the socket: Upon further examination, it looks like the socket itself has issues. Here's a view of it with the cover on: Here's a view with the cover off (and yes, it's completely powered off at the breaker box :D) Obviously the dust is a concern. I plan to clean that out. What concerns me more though is that the black wire appears to be frayed and turned black. Like it was overheating perhaps? Here's another view: I'm prepared to hire an electrician to come out but I'd like to know more about what's going on here so I don't get swindled and spend exactly one billion dollars fixing something that isn't related. If it helps to clarify, the house is about 50 years old and I'm pretty sure the original romex is still going to this socket. Questions: What could cause this issue? What are the next steps for troubleshooting/repairing? Would the entire wiring need to be replaced or could this just be a faulty socket? <Q> I'm not in the US, so I used Google to deduce which prong is doing what in this outlet. <S> I'll assume that the left and the right wires are phase wires and the middle wire is the ground. <S> So this is not melting due to overload. <S> The most likely scenario is that the left terminal got rusty and its surface resistance raised <S> and so it overheated and <S> this causes minor melting on the left wire. <S> The signs of burn on the outlet face are quite typical and likely don't indicate a wiring problem. <S> Outlet contacts tend to get loose over time and <S> once that happens they no longer maintain tight contact with the plug contacts. <S> Also when a high load is disconnected an arc can start and this makes the contacts burn and cover with carbon and further increases the resistance. <S> This is more likely to lower quality outlets, but happens just about everywhere. <S> So the bottom line is <S> the outlet has just worn out and needs careful replacement. <S> Remove the old outlet, clean the exposed wires, carefully connect the new outlet making sure all screws on the terminals are tight. <S> You might want to test the new outlet - plug some high load and let it run for an hour, then trip the breaker, open the outlet cover and check whether there're any signs of warming up. <A> It looks like there is a little rust on the screw for the black wire. <S> This would have increased the resistance for that leg. <S> More resistance means there is more heat generated. <S> An electrician may have to replace the whole line as there is no ground. <S> Since you have to replace the outlet, and the plug; I would recommend using a 4 pin outlet. <S> ( 2 hots, a neutral, and ground ) <A> Also the insulation is cracking. <S> Bubbling is from overheating, like too many amps being pulled through the romex, and the breaker did not trip, which it should because it is thermally protected. <S> Thru the picture it is hard t tell <S> but if you see the insulation bubbling and dis-figured <S> then maybe the best thing would be to get an electrician to look at it and determine if the wire is ok <S> and he just has to shorten the wires to the socket, or replace the romex.
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An electrician would, at the very least, cut off the damaged insulation, and replace the outlet. Note that although the left wire looks melted the right one looks just fine although they usually carry equal currents. The heat would have caused expansion, which could increase the resistance further. What it looks like to me is that the insulation looks over-heated and the insulation is bubbling and failing.
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How do you secure wood framing to a concrete basement floor? I'm using Pressure treated lumber for the bottom plate in a basement finishing project. What should I use to seperate the wood from the concrete? What are ways to secure the bottom plate to the floor? <Q> Pressure treated "PT" lumber is made for damp areas, where there's moisture and direct contact to concrete or earth. <S> Make sure to use the proper coated anchors for Pressure treated lumber. <S> such as hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners. <S> there's more detail about this below.. <S> keep in mind pressure treated is not only a preservative <S> it is also a poison to prevent termites.. <S> An alternative you can consider using fir or pine as your bottom plates, if on concrete you can't have direct contact. <S> lumber will take the moisture from concrete and either cause dry rot. <S> To prevent that from happening lay down sill gasket a foam like material in a roll.. made for this reason.. and can be found in most home hardware locations.. <S> Commencing in early 2004, the pressure treated wood industry ceased producing CCA treated wood for many residential uses. <S> A number of replacements have been developed including Copper Azole (CA), Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ) and Sodium Borate (SBX). <S> With the change, ACQ and CA will almost certainly be the preservatives used in generically designated “pressure treated” sawn lumber in use in building construction. <S> SBX treated lumber is available but would need to be specified as such. <S> Practices and customs that were adequate with CCA treated lumber may not be appropriate for use with the new products. <S> Some of these “next generation” wood preservatives are significantly more corrosive to metal than was CCA treated wood. <S> Current information suggests that this increase in corrosion particularly applies to CA (and ACQ but not to SBX) <S> The use of hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel fasteners with the pressure treated wood, and avoidance of contact of aluminum with pressure treated wood have been long standing recommendations; although, in practice,these have frequently been overlooked with no serious consequences (other than pitted aluminum flashings). <S> With the new preservatives these recommendations should no longer be ignored. <S> Thus it is important to specify and obtain appropriate corrosion resistant materials to ensure adequate service life for fasteners and connectors. <S> Aluminum should not be used in contact with pressure treated wood. <S> Spacer materials or other physical barriers are recommended to prevent direct contact of pressure treated wood with aluminum products. <S> I realize this is an old post <S> but i hope this information helps people looking for the right answers. <S> if you would like help with anything else look up my page up on facebook- RCM Construction <A> I'd strongly encourage you to consider metal studs instead of wood for a basement finishing project. <S> There are many reasons. <S> I've outlined my conclusion in this question: <S> Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls? <S> Either way, though, yes, you want to separate the base plate from the bare concrete. <S> With wood, you want something impermeable to water. <S> I'd suggest the rubber window-wrap product for that. <S> For metal, I used very thin pink XPS foam board to act as a bit of a thermal barrier. <S> As for how to attach it, this is the fun part. <S> You get to go buy a powder actuated hammer! <S> A powder actuated hammer is basically a rifle. <S> You load it with .22 caliber shots that then shoot a nail through the wood into the concrete. <S> There are two main types of them. <S> One is like a chisel, and you strike the top place with a mallet to fire the shot. <S> The other looks more like an actual rifle with a hand trigger. <S> I've used both and will say that you will save a ton of time/headaches by paying the extra $10 for the trigger based one. <S> Wear hearing/eye protection! <A> Another way of attachment is to use the blue Tapcon screws. <S> A hammer drill, hex drill bit, and masonry drill bit(s) are required. <S> I used these on my basement and it was pretty easy (but noisy). <S> I've used the ramset gun (actuated hammer) in the past <S> and I can say the gun is more fun and perhaps easier. <S> Although it makes my significant other very nervous when it is used (sounds just like a gun). <S> Just be aware there are different shot loads <S> (they are color coded) yellow, green, etc. <S> and one will need to find the load to drive the nail through your concrete. <S> Do a few test shots first. <S> If you want to build up your forearms, you can go old school with concrete spikes and a small sledge hammer well. <S> Please note I have no affiliation to Tapcon other than using the screws on a project. <A> Window/Door Flashing tape <S> Sill Gasket Possibilities for securing the wood framing to the floor: <S> Powder Actuated Hammer - a tool which fires a .22 caliber shell loaded with a nail. <S> Tapcon <S> Screws - Pre-drill base plate and concrete and then secure to the floor with Tapcon screwes. <S> This will require a hefty hammer-drill. <S> A cordless may drain too quickly depending on how much framing needs to be secured to the floor.
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Use something impermeable to water to separate the wood from the concrete.
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Cheapest way to heat and cool a converted garage? I'm converting my two car garage into a home theater and was seeking some advice on the cheapest way to heat, cool, and dehumidify the room. Here are some details: Garage was once a model home office so the walls, ceiling, and garage door are insulated. Dimensions are about 20' x 20' x 10'. The garage has no windows. The garage has attic access. I live in Austin, Texas. Temperatures range from triple digits down to occasional freezing. I'm am most concerned about the cooling and dehumidification. I can use an electric heater if need be to warm the garage during the winter. Since I will have sensitive home theater equipment in the garage, it will be important that the garage remain within a normal room temperature and humidity level. I'm trying to keep the project within $1500 but I'm afraid that may be out of reach... I have central air and heating in a small 2200 sqft home. <Q> Once installed, you'll likely exceed the $1500 budget, but I think it's the best of the options. <S> You wall mount half of the unit inside the home and run the cooling lines through the wall and out to an exterior coil. <S> They also have a condensation drain line that you run outside to help with the humidity. <A> You can always go with a window AC / Heater or something like this; If you go this way make sure you size it out to match the room. <S> This one shows that it has a dehumidifier also . <S> I think you are right about your unit not being able to handle your garage also. <S> They are usually sized for the house. <S> Too large a unit is just as bad as too small a unit. <S> Then you will also need a return air duct. <S> While ease of use and having everything you need in one unit might be a plus, the cons are going to be the noise when on and the possibility of having to have an extra electrical circuit put in. <S> If your panel is in or outside the garage that will make it a lot easier, the other side of the house will be a chore. <S> There are lost of style to choose from so choice won't be a problem. <A> When converting my garage to home theater <S> I purchased <S> one of those portable ac units cut about a 5" x 5" square hole installed dryer flap so it closes when ac not on. <S> I eventually had a duct ran to garage to add to house cooling and upgraded my cenral unit from 2.5 ton to a 3.5 ton unit. <S> Cools garage perfect still have portable unit but seldom use. <S> I upgraded to this as i wanted room cool and comfortable at all times. <S> Good luck
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If your current AC is not adequate to extend to the garage area, then a ductless mini-split wall mounted AC unit is probably ideal for your situation.
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What's the best way to shore up a ceiling register that is loose? I have a few ceiling registers which are not flush with the ceiling since the duct has loosened over time. What's the best way to get them flush with the ceiling? I thought about driving several sheet metal screws into them but they would go into drywall which has only so much holding strength. Is there a better method? Thanks <Q> Drill a hole on either side of the register. <S> Mark <S> the holes on the ceiling with a pencil, drill and install a drywall anchor in each location. <S> Secure the register with screws into the anchor. <S> Some people paint the ceiling and the register so it blends in better (and covers the screw heads). <A> Screws tightened nicely. <S> All you are trying to do is give the screw something to hold to. <S> Don't overfill or pack the hole. <A> I found some more registers that the previous homeowner completed stripped the screws on. <S> I put a glob of JB weld on the problematic hole, completely covering it. <S> Came back the next day and drilled a small hole through it and carefully screwed in the register. <S> I was skeptical but it held very well and tight! <S> On another register I drilled another hole into the sheet metal to solve the same problem. <S> BTW, I highly recommend a socket and not screwdriver for removing/tightning. <A> I had this problem as well, I installed a couple of 'leaf springs' on a plastic register and it stays in place very well. <S> Here's a link to a video I made for it. <S> https://youtu.be/bHWa9MCxrDQ <S> The Wright Handyman
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I cut thin strips of cardboard (small enough to fit in screw hole) and poked them in the holes.
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How can I stop my washing machine drain from overflowing? When my washing machine drains it sometimes comes up and out of the open pvc pipe in the service closet where the water heater would drain. I've found lots of posts where people speak of the washer standpipe overflowing, but can't find any info on what would cause my problem. When the washer drains I have to stand at the service closet (next to each other in the garage) and watch/listen. First I can hear gurgling, then hear the water coming up the pipe (similar to the sound of filling a glass of water), then I can see the water just before it emerges and floods my service closet and garage. If I turn the washer off and on as it drains this doesn't happen...but not really feasible for the long run. Any ideas? <Q> It sounds like the pipe is partially blocked and water can only get through at a slower speed. <S> The drain at the hot water is the lowest point so that's why it is coming from there. <S> The blockage could be anything, from debris that came in through the pipe in the service closet or a sock that made it out of the washer. <S> Since it's after where the water is coming out of the service closet <S> then you might be able to get a drain snake the problem <S> but you might have to get an expert to get it cleaned out. <A> lqlarry is likely right, and using a snake to clean out the line is the first step. <S> (+1 Larry) <S> It could also be a problem with the plumbing vent. <S> If that is the issue, you would likely hear a gurgle after you shutoff the washing machine and the water gets down to the P-trap, not unlike the sound the toilet makes at the end of the flush. <S> The other issue I can think of is that the plumbing drain is improperly sized or sloped. <S> If that's the case, this problem would have always happened, and wouldn't be a new issue. <A> We hooked up water hose to a stopper from Ace. <S> It kept water from coming back and force washed the clog out. <S> I did use liquid Plumber followed w/hot water first. <S> The clog looked like big pieces of dried washing powder. <A> Think air behind water. <A> If the washer drains into a dry well, then the dry well is probably clogged with lint. <S> You will have to dig it out or dig a new one. <S> We had that problem at my son's house. <A> It's because the water flows out faster than the pipe can drain. <S> The easiest way to fix this is to seal up the washing machine waste hose against the open PVC pipe. <S> Some gaffer tape should do the trick. <S> Otherwise you could fit a holding tank above the drain which is allowed to fill and provides time enough for it to drain out without overflowing. <S> A harder option would be to increase the size of the waste pipe so that it can take a larger volume of water through it. <A> I only had that problem when I purchased a newer washer. <S> I purchased a rubber piece from a hardware store, it came with two clamps that goes around each end. <S> One end goes over the pipe and the other end goes over the rubber pipe to the washer. <S> Tighten the clamps. <S> No more problems with water backing out because of the tight seal. <S> It didn't cost a lot <S> and I didn't have to call a plumber <S> which would have cost money and the problem not fixed. <A> Get the washer drain piping snaked out. <S> Have the plumber run down the vent stack for the washing machine. <S> This should take care of your problem. <A> The end of drain hose is too deep down to the standpipe, it chokes. <S> It should extend no more than 4" from the finishing end of the upside down U handle.
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The drain must be properly vented for it to withstand the rush of water from a washing machine pump.
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How can I reclaim heat from an enclosed furnace room? Our home has two furnaces (oil fired hot air) and an electric water heater in an enclosed room (approx 6'6" x 9'). Three walls of the room divide it from the remainder of a finished basement, the fourth is an outside wall that includes a vent for combustion air intake. In cold weather, especially when both furnaces run frequently, the room becomes quite warm -- into the 90s (F) at times. I'd like to be able to divert some of this heat into the house without leaving the door open (which is quite effective, but inconvenient, as it opens into a spot that we often walk through). I've already sealed as many air leaks in the ductwork as I can find (a total of four zones are served by the two furnaces, so there is a lot of sheet metal in there), I think a lot of remaining heat is being radiated from the furnaces themselves and the flue pipes (they are single-walled until they exit the room). I'm thinking of putting a pair of vents -- one high, with a thermostatic fan to blow the warm air into the room, and a low one, to balance the airflow -- in the wall shared with the office. Outside of heating season, the vents could be closed to prevent outside air (from the combustion air intake vents) from circulating into the office. The only specific risk I can see would be the risk of CO being pulled into the room if there is a furnace failure. We have working CO detectors in the house, and I suspect it would be circulated throughout the house anyway due to leaks in the return ducts (around the filters, for example), so I'm not sure if this adds risk or not. I know that furnaces in many homes I've seen are not in enclosed rooms, so perhaps I'm overthinking this. <Q> Another alternative would be to install a door with louvers in it to allow the air to circulate. <S> It could be a simple door with just one vent, or a full louver door like the one below. . <A> Do NOT power-vent that room into living space. <S> You never want to vent a room containing combustion devices into living spaces... <S> as you state, that's asking for CO problems. <S> It's not an issue of the furnace being defective, it's an issue of you sucking exhaust out of the normal path (the chimney) due to negative pressure. <S> You could get around this by using a direct vent/intake system where it becomes a completely closed circuit (furnace draws directly from outside). <S> I'm not an HVAC specialist, but a 90 degree room seems to me that there's something else amiss here... <S> like maybe your circulating fan is underpowered? <A> I would exchange heat passively, with something like the louvered door suggestion above.
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Any use of a fan could, as suggested, introduce CO into your living space, or worse damage your furnaces if the exhaust is not allowed to exit properly.
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How do I unscrew a broken aerator? My bathroom faucet was spewing water at odd angles. The aerator was obviously old and plagued with mineral deposits. So I attempted to remove the aerator to clean/replace it. With WD-40 and vice grips I was able to get it to unscrew about a quarter turn, but when I tried to reposition my vice grips, the aerator broke in two. The top half with the threading is still stuck in my faucet. Any way to remove this without replacing the whole faucet? I can add a picture if it helps. <Q> Mineral build up has likely cemented the aerator in place, <S> so: <S> Wash off the WD40 residue with soap as best you can. <S> Get a glass or cup. <S> Fill it with vinegar or a citric acid solution, and heat it in the microwave til hot. <S> position the cup under the faucet so that the mineraled up threads are submerged. <S> Let it sit for a few hours periodically warming the liquid and lightly tapping the aerator with a hammer so as to loosen residue. <S> If you are persistent and lucky, the acid will dissolve the mineral buldup to the point you can unscrew the top half of the aerator. <S> If you have them, a mototool or detail sander might also be used to mechanically nudge the stuck threads. <S> That'll open channels for the acid to get at the mineral buildup. <A> At this point, the faucet is likely to be unsalvageable. <S> Your "quarter turn" was not the probably not aerator turning in its threads, but the soft metal twisting before breaking. <S> Especially if the water was "shooting out" from holes that were corroded in the metal. <S> An alternate, equally bleak possibility is that the aerator was cross-threaded. <S> OK, now that I've level-set, the first thing that you want to do is get actual penetrating oil. <S> WD-40 is a lubricant and water dispersant, but it won't do anything to dissolve corrosion. <S> Buy the type that comes in a spray can, because it will be much easier to apply. <S> Spray <S> the penetrating oil inside the faucet around the aerator, and let it sit overnight . <S> You want to completely douse the area, so that you have the best chances of oil getting into the threads (and yes, it will take some time to flush it all away once you get the faucet working again). <S> Set up a mirror in the sink so that you can see what you're doing. <S> Using a small cold chisel and hammer, tap the remaining piece of the aerator. <S> You want to apply tangential force, in the direction of loosening (and offhand, I can't remember if it's right- or left-hand threaded). <S> You don't have to hit that hard; the goal is to break the threads loose. <S> However, you'll probably have to keep tapping until the broken piece comes completely free. <S> If you have a place to set the chisel (such as a jagged edge from tearing the metal). <S> that will help. <S> If not, you can create such an edge with a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel. <S> Just be careful not to cut into the threads in the faucet body. <A> I spent $60 dollars and bought a set of Irwin Multi-Spline extractors on-line. <S> You can use the different sized extractors to grab onto the interior of your faucet nozzle and then you can un-screw the jammed aerator threads. <S> You might be able to find something in the plumbing tools section of your Home Depot or Lowes. <S> Look for pipe nipple extractors. <S> The ones I found were too small for my aerator--that's why I bought the Irwin extractors-- <S> but they might fit yours. <S> I think the Dremel tool idea listed here would have worked for me. <S> Once you degrade the integrity of the jammed aerator threads, they can be nudged away from the faucet screws. <S> Wish I had seen it before I went for the extractor solution. <A> A lighter and a pocket knife did it in less than 5 minutes for me - after spending more than an hour before checking this site. <S> I had already taken the spout off, which wasn't necessary. <A> I actually lucked out buy using a lighter to soften the plastic and break a chunk off with little wire cutters and the rest I pulled off with small pliers <A> I have the same problem. <S> I tried various solutions provided here <S> but it did not work. <S> Get the right drill bit size, 5/8” worked with my Moeen faucet, and just push and turn counterclockwise by hand to remove the stuck aerator.
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Finally I tried to remove the broken aerator thread with a drill bit and it worked.
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How can I sound proof bathroom walls? I'm trying to figure out the best, least intrusive way of sound proofing the walls of a bathroom. The bathroom shares a wall with my bedroom, and my 3 yea old's bedroom. The main problem is the sound of water running (plus every bump on the counter and everything) echos loud and clear through the wall into my sons room. I found sound deadening drywall and it seems like a good choice. Another option is adding another layer fo drywall with something like Green Glue between them. But all the walls and ceilings in the house are textured. So replacing just one or two walls in a room is just not possible. This is the layout of the two rooms. I've added red box around the wall with the most noise. Is there anything else I'm missing here that I could do to dampen the noise short of tearing the bathroom apart? <Q> I'd tear the bedroom wall apart. <S> What you are experiencing is the noise traveling through mechanical connections to the wall (screwed to studs) and the noise from the water passing through thin copper pipe (probably the Type M pipe rather than the thicker Type L). <S> The only effective way I know of is to insulate that wall with Roxul Safe and Sound. <S> It's an insulation designed for noise.... and noise only. <S> It doesn't burn. <S> To go the added mile, use resilient channels before hanging the drywall. <S> The demo is probably a DIY, the installation of the Roxul is DIY, and the drywall.... call someone. <S> For a few hundred bucks the repair will disappear. <S> Edit : <S> Blown in insulation will not work... blown in is for warmth, not sound. <S> It's the sound transfer you're trying to conquer. <S> We once built a house and insulated the walls with thermal insulation, thinking just like you are. <S> It didn't work. <S> We had the type L pipe, all the plumbing was fastened with cushioned fasteners. <S> We thought we had it knocked. <S> Turned out, it was a waste of money. <S> If you truly want to fix it, just take down the drywall and do it the right way with the Roxul. <S> Going into a wet wall from the bathroom side is a suicide mission. <S> Building an offset wall will create a door opening that's 10"... with a door that has a 5" jamb. <S> It sounds like a difficult job, but it's probably only one weekend. <S> ear plugs at Costco and call it a day. <A> That's your wet wall... <S> all the plumbing is in there connected to the wall and floor (at least in the case of the tub). <S> Ideally, you'd take down the sheetrock in the bedroom, then install a new row of studs that are not connected to the existing wall. <S> While you are in there, see if you can better isolate the plumbing from the studs using rubber washers and mounts. <S> Consider wrapping the pipes in insulation as well. <S> To finish, ideally hang the Sheetrock using sound deadening channels. <S> In the end, though, you still have physical connections with the floor and ceiling <S> so sound might still get in. <S> Maybe the simplest solution is to swap bedrooms with your son. <A> If you really want to avoid taking down the bedroom wall, then hang some acoustical panels on the wall (found from suppliers of home theater systems). <S> You could also hang a large tapestry or carpet like material on the wall. <S> But el katz has the correct answer with the resilient channel and insulation designed for sound proofing. <A> Don’t forget the door. <S> Make sure you have a solid core door between the bedroom and bathroom. <A> I hope this isn't too far off the beaten path, but have you tried something far less involved, like putting a white-noise generator (like a fountain, or one of those radios that can play the sound of a brook or crashing waves) in your son's room? <A> I had similar problem at a game store once. <S> The bathroom wall was paneling on one side and thin sheet rock on the other side. <S> The laughing stopped when I sound proofed it. <S> I did not have much space to work with in such a small room, but I mounted two 2X4s- one on the ceiling and one on the floor. <S> I studded them in regular intervals except I turned the studs sideways. <S> I put up fiberglass insulation in the void (though the sound proofing insulation mentioned in a previous post may work better). <S> I used fire rated (5/8") sheet rock on top of that. <S> Once it was done, The silence was indeed golden. <S> A possible revision, if you are comfortable working with metal studs, There is a stud available for use with pocket doors. <S> You can use this and the corresponding track for it to make a very low profile sound proof wall. <S> The main point is putting a sound deadening void between you and the offending noise. <A> JUST DO IT! <S> It is so silly to say I spent so much time painting the wall, etc.,. <S> What is most important?!? <S> Just do it and you will be happy in the end that you did. <S> All the other fixes are half-assed ways of doing something that will still not even work. <S> Stop wasting time and just do. <S> The wall can be painted again. <S> I know that's a pain in the butt but seriously <S> "What Is Most Important!" <S> Do it <S> and I'll do my mine! <S> Ha <S> Ha I have the same exact problem however holding off on installing my brand new vanity <S> so I might still go in the bathroom side and somehow wrap the plumbing as well. <S> I've been in this business for many years <S> the wall will NEVER be perfect but it will be much more liveable and more quality.
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Then, fill the void with sound deadening insulation. It's always best to just bite the bullet and take the bedroom wall down and do it right. And consider adding an automatic door bottom to seal the space between the floor and the bottom of the door. I wouldn't tear the bathroom wall apart... Then there's the carpet... or other flooring surface. EVERY sound could be heard. Otherwise, just buy your son some foam You'll end up with studs 16oc in the bathroom, and then on the bedroom side you'll have the same, but staggerd 8" from the original ones.
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Finishing drywall: How do I finish over screws that refuse to recess/dimple into the drywall? Update 10/30/2012: See comment I left under gregmac's answer I just finished installing QuietRock 525 over existing walls. Half a sheet of 525 is heavy backer board and I am thinking that's the reason why several of my screws are having so much trouble recessing into the wall. If I had known in the beginning what I know now, I would have installed the QuietRock as the first layer and used special backer board screws with a square-shaped bit since this phillips bit wants to slip out of the screw head with a loud "ratta tat tat!". So now I am stuck with some screws that stick out slightly from the surface of the drywall. It's not as much as 1/16" or anything, but you can feel it raise as you take your finger over the head. I could remove the offending screws, drill out a wider hole, and screw them back in, but I don't want to deteriorate the integrity of the grab. I'd like to finish over them so that the wall is smooth. What do I do, tape over them? Use an extra-thick layer of mud? Eh? <Q> Though you might be able to mud over them, you're looking at 1-2' of mud (feathered) around each screw to make it not noticeable, which basically means you'd be covering the entire piece of drywall with mud. <S> Like pretty much everything in construction, it will be much easier to do it properly now rather than try to fix it later. <S> If your driver is slipping out, you are probably not using the right bits (or your bit is worn out) or are not pushing hard enough on the drill to prevent the bit from slipping out. <S> Make sure the bit fits well in the screw head: it should not have any room to wiggle in any direction, and should not slide around. <S> #2 Philips is the usual here, but depending on the screw head it may need to be a sharper/longer or blunt tip. <S> It could also be that your screws are not the right type. <S> If you're going into wood studs, generally you should use coarse thread screws. <S> If you're going into metal studs, it should be fine-threaded screws. <S> Since the board is also 5/8, it may be that the screws are not long enough. <A> If it's only a few screws, I would simply give them a decent tap with a hammer to knock them further in. <S> I've been advised to do that in the past by a professional plasterer. <A> Try using an impact driver to tighten the screws a little more. <S> You will likely be able to get further than you would with a regular drill/driver. <S> If you weren't already looking for an excuse to buy an electric one, you can also get a hand impact driver for a few bucks ( example 1 , example 2 ). <A> You mention in your post that you don't want to "deteriorate the integrity of the grab". <S> Hammering the screws would do just that (it could also snap them). <S> Unscrew them and re-screw them in (by hand) <S> an inch above or below the initial position, then mud over both holes.
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Try longer screws, which should get a better grip on the studs behind so once they start going in, they'll go in as deep as you need.
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How to hide light-colored wires in a dark-colored cabinet? I'm installing some LED lights in a particle-board cabinet. The cabinet's walls have dark-colored veneers (nearly black), while the wires to the LEDs are beige, and would stand out quite prominently. Routing the wires on the other side of the walls is not an option. Cable raceways I see are all way large and also light-colored. I probably could use thin dark-colored PVC tubes of some sort, but I'm not sure how to attach them to the walls of the cabinet neatly enough. Painting the wires black might be the last resort :) I still hope there's a better solution. Is there? <Q> There's stick-on wire chases that can be purchased. <S> I think the usual big box hardware stores carry them. <S> You won't see it. <S> Google plastic raceway cable organizers. <S> The first one that came up says it was available in black or ivory. <S> http://cableorganizer.com/economical-latching-raceway/ <A> There are many cable-wrapping solutions. <S> My first suggestion would be small heat-shrink tubing. <S> This would hold multiple wires together, and color them black. <S> small split loom could accomplish the same thing, although it would look very different if any light shone into the cabinet. <S> I'd avoid paint, as it's likely to start flaking after a few years. <S> You could also replace the wire. <S> You'd need to take the fixtures at least partially apart, but it's likely not terribly difficult. <A> I wonder if it would be possible to dye the wires a darker color? <S> Makezine featured methods for doing this some time ago http://blog.makezine.com/2009/07/18/how-to-dye-computer-parts/
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Ultimately, you could simply wrap the wires in electrical tape, although that would be a pain. Slide the wire inside, peel off the sticky, and bury it in a corner.
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Advice for replacement/repair of an HVAC with a cracked heat exchanger? My townhouse has a downflow 1994 Rheem 2.5 ton HVAC unit on its roof (combines both A/C and heat). We have had two issues with the unit and have been in the townhouse for a little under two years. In this latest case, the contractor noticed there was a crack in the heat exchanger of the unit, requiring him by law to shut off the gas and electricity to the unit. His recommendation was to replace the unit completely, in that the amount of labor spent on this and future repair work would overshoot the cost of complete replacement. I am liable to agree with the recommendation of the contractor, but wanted to ask and see if there was anything out of the ordinary I should be aware in considering the HVAC unit's replacement? <Q> Check your unit's warranty. <S> The heat exchangers on some units are warranteed for 20 years or longer. <S> They may also cover all or part of the installation labor. <S> Find out whether there are any federal or state tax incentives that could help. <S> A federal tax credit has been available in the last few years for improving your home's energy efficiency, and replacing an older heating unit with a higher efficiency model was one way you could qualify. <S> I don't know if that's still available in 2012, but worth looking. <S> Your local utility may also offer some sort of incentive for installing a high efficiency unit (not to mention the lower monthly bills). <S> Some utilities have programs like this one , where you can save money on your electric bill by letting the utility reduce your energy usage during peak periods. <S> (In simple language, that means they'll turn off your air conditioning for short periods on very hot days to help avoid brownouts.) <S> This probably won't affect your choice of a new unit, but it's something that you might want to consider at the same time. <A> That unit is already 18 years old which means it's approaching its end of life. <S> Even if you did repair the heat exchanger, you'd likely have to replace it soon anyways. <S> With old stuff, it just always seems to be one thing after another. <S> The new units are likely to be quieter and more efficient than the unit your currently have. <S> If you still have a non-programmable thermostat, this is a good time to change it out for a new one. <A> The heater is up on the roof too? <S> A crack in your heat-exchange shouldn't affect your ability to run the air-conditioning. <S> Turn off gas to heater? <S> Yes. <S> Turn off power? <S> Maybe... <S> It's a big expense. <S> I would get a second opinion, just in case you are getting scammed or aren't really comfortable with the technician yet. <S> And I'm stuck on this -- <S> unless your heating system is up on the roof, there's no heat-exchange in the AC part of the system. <S> I'm no expert, but even when I lived in CA, heaters were installed inside somewhere - attic, crawl-space or closet. <S> But that could all be trivial, compared to the main point below. <S> More importantly though <S> -- I agree with Steven -- HVAC units are generally good for 20 years. <S> It may not make sense to put anymore money into this system (especially if it's out of warranty). <S> Definitely get at least 2 quotes before buying a new system, and definitely check out the hi-efficiency systems.
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You may be able to get at least some money from the manufacturer, or a credit toward a new unit of the same brand. Assuming its not covered by warranty, then yes I think the contractors advice to replace it with a new unit is correct.
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How can I attach two pieces of wood in an invisible way? I would like to attach a thin tree trunk to a flat smooth piece of wood, in order to create support for a very heavy shelf. Any suggestions on how to do it, while leaving a minimal outside marks? Basically my question is how to attach the tubular part in perpendicular to the flat part, with no outside accessories... <Q> I would suggest a tenon cutter. <S> It will mount in a drill. <S> You put a tenon on the end of your wood of a specific diameter, then drill a hole (a round mortise) in the wood it will be attached to. <S> The tenon slips right in. <S> Use a little glue, and it will stay firmly there. <S> As well, this will yield a very strong joint. <S> For example, look at how the legs on Windsor style chairs fit into the seat from underneath. <S> Such tenons are also used on the braces between the legs in such chairs, where one member is tenoned into another. <A> You could use a pocket hole screw on the underside of the shelf, if I'm envisioning your setup correctly. <S> Just place the pocket hole underneath the shelf aimed outward toward where you want the thin tree trunk to join with it. <S> You can create one with a simple jig , a clamp, and a drill. <S> Use self-tapping screws to avoid the hassle of lining up pilot holes with the trunk. <S> Once the shelf is installed, you can finish off the look with a pocket hole plug matching the wood the shelf is made out of. <S> Also, if you plan on using this method frequently for more projects, spring for a better jig. <S> I have the one pictured above, and it works great for small projects. <S> After using it on several dozen joints though, I wish I had bought this model instead. <A> I think what you need is a double threaded wood screw . <S> The only problem is that you can only use 1, as you'll need to rotate the work, not the screw. <A> Wood glue. <S> You can get wood glue stronger than screws and nails.
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I'd recommend using wood glue to supplement the joint strength.
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How do you replace a section of cast iron drain pipe? circa 1929, Boston The kitchen sink connects to cast iron inside the wall. Just below the connection the section of vertical cast iron pipe is rotten and leaking. A couple of feet above it ties into the vent and right below it connects into a hub, part of a ginormous cast iron fitting that has the 4" stack, the outlet to the WC, a, vent for the WC, a Y out to the tub/lav: 6 connections in one fitting. It looks good, doesn't seem to have any of the rot. Why is it rotten? Does it bode ill for the rest of the system? I plan on cutting it out from above the kitchen TY to the hub below. It's kind of tight for any type of cutter. Is there a particularly good sawzall blade for this? Any tricks on getting the pipe out of the hub below? What is the best way unpack the fitting. What do I repack it with; can you still even get lead? <Q> You're going to have to cut out the pipe, and replace it with PVC drain pipe. <S> Here's a youtube how-to: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFaJyIzyiYA <A> Why is it rotten? <S> Does it bode ill for the rest of the system? <S> I would replace as much cast as is easily doable with ABS. <S> Is there a particularly good sawzall blade for this? <S> Standard metal blade will do - I just cut a 4" myself no problem. <S> (EDIT - I just realized it was steel, not cast iron. <S> Try a regular metal blade, but you may have to use one of the abrasive blades instead. <S> They also have "score and snap" cutters at the home centers - looks like a length of motorcycle chain with a lever on it - never tried those.) <S> Any tricks on getting the pipe out of the hub below? <S> I would not do that - cut it (leaving a stub) and use a rubber sleeve connector in both locations. <S> Get the ones that have the metal shell on the outside for support, since you will have a tee-ed in pipe hanging off. <S> I have (once) cut off a steel pipe entering a cast fitting, and then cut a wedge out of the remaining stub (all the way into the fitting) and hammered the rest of the pipe stub out - but that sucked, and I'm surprised nothing else broke. <A> DIY cutting cast iron is pretty easy, but it's a little counter-intuitive. <S> Cast iron is extremely brittle compared to steel. <S> That's important for how you approach it. <S> Cutting it with a sawzall blade is going to be very slow and frustrating. <S> I think the best choice of blade would be along the lines of the diamond-grit "friction" blades, but any sawzall blade is going to be a pain, and any kind of toothed blade is going to wear out so quickly <S> you probably won't even finish a single cut. <S> On the other hand, the professional tool, a cast-iron "snapper", is simply a chain with a series of wheels embedded in it that look remarkably like giant glass cutter wheels. <S> The cutter pulls the chain tighter and tighter until the iron snaps right at the ring of pressure points. <S> It doesn't get "cut" at all. <S> It breaks at the pressure point. <S> Along those lines, I've had excellent success doing the following: <S> Use a 4" grinder to score a channel around the perimeter of the pipe where you want it to break. <S> (A "groove" a "ring", whatever language works for you: a circular cut around the perimeter) Then drive a chisel into the gap in such a way that the chisel is acting as a wedge to cause the two pipe sections to split apart and break at the score line. <S> It produces a pretty clean, not perfect cut, but plenty close enough to use regular fernco fittings to connect to it from there. <S> By far the fastest, least frustrating method I've seen, short of having the "right tool for the job"
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I would cut above and below where the K sink drain comes in and replace everything back to the sink with ABS. You can get rubber connectors (fernco) for the transition.
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How do I optimally cut a bolt to length? Once in a while I need a bolt of exactly the right length and it is not one of the lengths available in stores. So I get a longer bolt and cut it to length. Here's the procedure I follow. I screw one or several nuts onto the bolt so that they are between the bolt head and the future cut. Then I grip the bolt in a vise and cut it with a hacksaw. Then I trim the edges with a file to get them to something like 45 degrees. Finally I ungrip the bolt and unscrew the nuts and that cleans the threading of any loose metal. What I don't like is trimming the edges requires a lot of tedious work and usually the edges won't be as clean as they were on the original bolt and so the bolt will sometimes get stuck when I start to screw a nut onto it and I'll have to remove the nut and try to screw it again. This it not a problem when the connection is to be permanent, but is definitely a problem when it has to be disconnected and connected back rather often. Also it's quite problematic to have a cut perfectly orthogonal to the bolt axis because the threading helps the saw blade to slightly drive away. This is not a major problem, but still would be better to avoid. Is there a more efficient procedure for cutting bolts to length that would yield cleaner edges and more precise cuts? <Q> After cutting the bolt to length, use a stationary grinder instead of a file to clean up your work. <S> With a grinder, it's easy to square up the end of the bolt and apply the chamfer that you want. <S> Just be careful, especially if the bolt is shorter than the grinder's table. <S> If the bolt is short, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bolt during grinding. <S> And remember that the end of the bolt is going to be very hot after grinding! <A> You have the basics down pat. <S> The key to getting the threads working properly is: Squaring off the thread end of the bolt. <S> Yes, the hacksaw blade will follow the threads slightly. <S> Otherwise its finish work with an 10 to 12 inch mill file with proper handle and a vise. <S> The larger file gives you control. <S> Adding the chamfer on the thread which you use either a file and vise or gentle grinder work to produce as evenly around the bolt circumference as possible. <S> You want it as flat and minimal as possible to maintain the thread and to follow the thread angle which is 30 degrees (half of the 60 degree included thread angle). <S> The missing element is the thread cleanup. <S> Threads are cut with a 60 degree angle. <S> A standard 60 degree triangular file is perfect. <S> You will need a rather small one that easily fits as close to the root of the thread as possible, use it to get rid of the burr that formed when you chamfered the end of the bolt off and cut a slight lead in which removes anything that departs from the proper thread angle. <S> The thread should exit into the chamfer looking as much like a 60 degree cut thread as possible. <S> Improper thread cleanup is where you get the problems with starting nuts on the bolt. <S> If it looks like half a thread coming off the end of the bolt, it will either be bent partially over, or easily deform in use <S> so the nut cannot start properly or galls with the weak thread and jams. <S> Either leads to cross-threading and misery. <S> Done more than my share during my early mechanic career working with old farm equipment where proper length bolts aren't always available. <S> Once you get the image in your head of what a proper bolt looks like for thread lead-in, it goes rather quickly. <A> You are doing it the optimal way for somebody that just does it occaisonally. <S> A cut that is more square across the bolt (OK - orthogonal...) can be had by using a motorized chop saw with an abrasive blade, an a grinder will help the clean-up, like Caleb says. <S> If you were to do it this way, you don't need the nut threaded on to clean out the threads. <S> BUT... it kinda sounds like you have a non-problem here. <S> Every blue moon you have to cut a bolt <S> and it takes a little extra time to get the nut on? <S> That doesn't sound so bad. <A> I use four nuts to cut the bolt at the proper length. <S> Two nuts on each side of the cut - one locks the other nut in place <S> so your blade has a secure groove to cut the bolt. <S> I also use flanged nuts on the inside facing each other to provide a better guide for the saw blade. <A> You could try putting a nut on either side of the cutting blade to square the cut and to stop the blade from drifting along the thread.
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If you have a bandsaw with a stock holding vise that can be squared to the blade, run a single nut on so the hexes will hold the bolt in place as straight to the blade as possible.
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What is the cheapest way to brighten a basement workshop? I have a bare concrete block unfinished basement. I have zero moisture problems (it's a 2007 construction with exterior waterproofing applied to the concrete along with a buried perimeter drain). The point is, I am not concerned with adding waterproofing to the interior. My main goal is to brighten the interior as much as possible. Since this is for a workshop, I'm not worried about a smooth finish. What's going to give me the most bang for my buck? <Q> Painting the walls will help, but if your workshop is anything like mine, you're going to cover a large percentage of the wall area with workbenches, peg boards, machines, shelves, etc. <S> And all the paint in the world won't help if you don't have adequate light sources in the first place. <S> So spend money first on lighting, and then on paint if you have funds left over. <S> Using higher quality lighting, and preferably several different types of lighting, will make working easier and more pleasant, so it'll be money well spent. <A> White paint is all you really need. <S> You can also add some plywood to a wall as a pseudo-pegboard but that is your call. <A> This may not be worth doing, but a white ceiling will reflect your lighting down where you want it instead of letting it get absorbed by the brown wood up in the joist bays. <S> It also gives you good non-directional lighting (especially if the walls are also white) <S> However, sheetrocking the ceiling in the basement is not an extreme that most people want to go to, so they just make do with crappy light. <A> Paint certainly helps reflect light into a room better than concrete, but as to the type to use, best to ask the paint department at your hardware store. <S> I wanted to add this: <S> One important consideration in work areas is not just the type and brightness of lighting, but placement . <S> A superb light source is just about worthless when it's behind you, casting a shadow. <S> When I rebuilt my (small) workshop, I had intended to keep a large fluorescent light in the center of the room, but my friend suggested I ditch it for some overhead recessed lighting placed directly over the countertop areas. <S> The improvement was immediately apparent: having several lights in key locations was much better than trying to fill the room from a central point. <S> 4" to 5" LED-based recessed lighting was what I used. <S> At ~$50 each they weren't inexpensive, but they have an estimated life of 20 years and provide excellent light without a yellowish tint. <A> You can get concrete paint / sealer to go straight on without primer. <S> I saw a basement one time where the wall was mostly white, but some of the blocks were different colors, Giving it a decorative look. <A> It should only require some cheap chrome effect plastic sheeting with clear plastic for the collection and distribution apertures, to bring plenty of real daylight into your basement. <S> Remember that in bright sunlight, a square meter provides about 100,000 lumens of light , so even if you only have a fifth of that, you could collect and distribute as much light as around 20 x 18W compact fluorescent lights.
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If painting the walls and ceiling white isn't enough and you don't want to be using electricity to light your garage throughout the day, then you may want to consider building yourself a light pipe .
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Should pegboard be part of the workbench or attached to the wall behind the workbench? Is it better to buy a workbench with the pegboard back included or to buy an inexpensive workbench and install the pegboard back on the wall? <Q> Pegboard attached to workbench will likely vibrate like crazy while you're trying to file, sand, saw, route, or hammer anything. <S> It's safer to just put the pegboard on the wall. <A> Personally, I like the idea of building your own bench, and making it free standing so you can walk around it. <S> You would not regret that decision. <S> I built my own, and it has served me quite well for many years now. <S> The money spent for vise hardware and the hardwood top was far less than I would have spent on a new bench of similar quality. <S> (Admittedly, I bought the thick maple top already made and finished, as the lumber there alone would have cost a bundle.) <S> As far as pegboard goes, hang it on the wall. <S> In fact, cover the wall with it. <S> You can never have enough storage, and blank wall is wasted space in a shop. <S> Why do you want to hang the pegboard on a wall, instead of attached to your bench? <S> My bench is massive, but I sometimes find even it moves on me when I'm doing something. <S> Do I really want it attached to pegboard with tools hanging from it? <S> No. <S> I have no desire to see a pair of pliers falling off their hook when I'm working. <A> I like installing it on the wall. <S> Actually, one of the coolest workbenches I've seen recently had two layers of pegboard -- the outer layer swung open on hinges like a cabinet door to reveal the inner layer. <A> I suppose it depends on where and how you plan to use this workbench. <S> Having the pegboard attached to the bench limits the size of projects that you can put on the bench and the directions from which you can approach the bench. <S> On the other hand, if you'll be working on small projects and having tools close at hand is very important, mounting the pegboard to the bench might make sense. <S> It really just comes down to what you prefer. <S> If you want a simple, strong, inexpensive work table that you can build in a few hours, take a look at some of the project suggestions for Simpson StrongTies . <S> You won't get a classic woodworker's bench here, just a very solid bench/table that you can use for all manner of projects.
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If there's a wall available, and if you might use the bench for large projects, then attach the pegboard to the wall.
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Paint got ripped off when trying to remove double-sided foam tape I was trying to remove a picture frame which was adhered to the wall with some double-sided foam tape. Unfortunately, the foam tape was so sticky and ripped some of the paint off the wall (see pictures below). I would like to know how should I fix this? Should I just repaint the small area where the paint is off or do I have to paint the entire wall? Would that be noticeable if I just repaint the small area? The original paint on the wall is about 1.5 years old. Also, would like to know some suggestions on how to remove double-sided foam tape easily without ripping off the paint? <Q> Double sided tape has a drawback. <S> Well, it has two drawbacks. <S> It falls off when you least want it to do so. <S> It sticks like crazy when you want to remove it. <S> Having said that, you probably tore off more than just a layer of paint. <S> I'll bet you actually tore off the surface layer of paper on the drywall. <S> Can you repair this by just painting over the spot? <S> Well, it depends. <S> Will anyone ever look at it? <S> Sorry, but it will be painfully obvious what you did. <S> So this depends on how critical the observer is. <S> If I was your landlord and I saw a poorly done patch when you were moving out, I'd mutter a few obscenities under my breath, then quietly mention to you about how you just forfeited your security deposit. <S> The problem is that paint won't match that well. <S> The color difference will be obvious. <S> Plus, due to the hole in the surface, there will be small shadows that will be quite obvious, so you will need to fill in the surface so it is smooth, BEFORE painting. <S> Anyway, if you tried to paint in just that small area with a brush, one would easily see the texture differences from painting with a brush compared to what was an original roller applied paint surface. <S> All of this means you really will need to spackle over the hole, feathering it out over the surface of the wall at least a few inches in each direction, and then sand smooth. <S> Once you have done this far enough out, repainting the entire wall will make sense anyway. <S> Lessons to be learned: Either don't use double sided tape, or, be much more careful removing it if you do. <S> This usually means to use a solvent that will break down the adhesive, but not the surface of your wall. <S> They sell stuff to do this, usually called something like Goo-Gone. <S> Another solvent that often works is rubbing alcohol. <S> It evaporates quickly, and does not attack paint, although it will harm some surfaces like shellac. <S> Always test any solvent on a small, inconspicuous spot before using it. <S> And watch out for fumes, so use good ventilation. <A> To repair a wall were you have accidentally removed some of the drywall's outer layer. <S> Don't paint or spackle directly onto this underpaper or it will bubble <S> (underpaper is usually a little fuzzy and looks like beige construction paper). <S> Then you have to paint the underpaper that has been exposed <S> (go beyond the edge about an inch) with an oil based paint or primer. <S> Then you can paint. <A> It looks like your wall is white, so this may not apply to you, but I've had great luck taking chips of wall (large flakes, pieces of trim) to paint stores and having them do a computerized color-match. <S> I've done this at least four times, and have been happy (surprised!) <S> with the results each time. <S> Generally it's the finish (flat/egg-shell/semi-gloss/glossy) that has been slightly off, but not so bad that it jumps out as an obvious touch-up. <S> As for getting off adhesives, I've use citrus based adhesive removers with success (sorry, don't remember the brand names off the top of my head) with good results, as long as the wall paint has good integrity. <A> When I took my poster (that used thick tape for) down <S> it left a spot there <S> so I just put a different poster up there and thought "I'll just keep this here and never take it down" <A> I had the same problem but I used blue tack. <S> I fixed mine and passed a house inspection. <S> I got the piece of wall off the blue tack then used some of that blue tack to stick the wall but in place.i grabbed some two ply toilet paper and separated it <S> then I ribbed a bit off big enough to cover it. <S> Put it over the top of the stuck on wall and glued it in place with white paint.
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To begin - scrape the loose paint along the edges until the remaining paint is completely adhered to the wall. After it dries you can spackle and it won't bubble up.
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Fixing a large (1/8"-wide) crack in a wood exterior door panel This is a follow-up to my previous question: How can I fix a hairline crack in a thin wood panel of an exterior door? While getting ready to apply wood glue (actually a mixture of wood glue and sawdust/sander dust) to the "hairline" crack in the door, I started scraping away spackling compound from my previous repair so the glue could find wood to stick to. But after scraping for a while I realized that my spackling repair was not the only one. The house's previous owner had apparently spackled and painted over a huge crack in the door. After removing all the spackling, the crack turned out to be 1/8" wide all the way through the 3/8" thick panel. The crack runs for 12" top to bottom. The crack is oddly consistent in width throughout, except for a small part at the top where a thin chunk of wood is still in place on the inside. Here's a picture. I put blue tape temporarily over the outside crack to prevent water damage and chilly winds while I figure out how to fix this. Should I try to stuff a 1/8"x3/8" shim into the crack and glue it in place? If yes, what glue to use for a high-vibration, non-clampable, and exposed-to-direct-sun (under black paint) area like an exterior door panel? If a shim is not advisable, what are other good options to fill such a large crack? <Q> Though the crack is diagonal it looks relatively straight. <S> In this case I'd take a piece of wood the approximate thickness of the crack at <S> it's widest, cut it to length and then taper it so that it fits quite snugly <S> - you should have to use a mallet to tap it home. <S> Don't worry about the thickness too much - but obviously it should be fairly close. <S> Once this fits use wood glue to bed it in and fill the imperfections, though you might get a better finish using wood filler for this. <S> Basically put more glue in than you need so it gets squeezed into every nook and cranny. <S> Clean it off before it sets, then leave the repair to set. <S> Once set use a chisel to remove the excess from both sides of the panel and finally sand to make it flush with the panel. <S> Fill any remaining (and hopefully small) holes, prime and paint. <S> By making the fit tight you minimise the chances for it to move, and therefore crack, further. <A> If the repair is holding, leave it alone. <S> You yourself did not know of its existence until you uncovered it. <S> Isn't that evidence that it was doing its job? <S> If you really want to try to repair it in place, and it's a big gap, you could try a bondo repair kit (as in auto-body bondo). <S> You will be making a fiberglass patch over the cracked area and sanding it to blend with the panel and painting over it. <S> The key is that they are two-part systems based on polyester resin (like in fiberglass) so they don't shrink when they cure. <S> The "wood" specialized versions of filler have stuff in them to make them more sandable than the auto-body bondo. <S> Epoxy-based products would also work similarly, and there are a bunch of those out there too. <A> Rather than filling the crack, you could lay another panel over it on both sides. <S> I would go with a thin AC plywood (AC is "good one side"). <S> You can find 1/8" luan plywood and poplar - do the best you can. <S> Cut plywood panels to fit inside the trim on the panel, bevel the edges to make it look nicer, glue them down, and paint. <S> If you could remove the trim pieces so that you could get the plywood to extend underneath (put the trim back over the top of the new plywood) that would probably look better. <S> And you will need to do this top and bottom, inside and out, to make it look right. <S> A new door is sounding better and better :) <A> To build on @dbracey's answer, I think a good repair option at this point is to cover the crack with a new peice of wood on both the interior and exterior sides of the door. <S> The width should be sufficient to center the piece and cover the crack. <S> The thickness needs to take account for the trim surrounding the panel so that is is flush with the existing trim. <S> Attach with Gorilla glue, let dry and then countersink wood screws to secure the interior and exterior pieces together. <S> Fill in the screw depression, sand prime and paint. <S> With all the thickness, a short screw (maybe a 1/2" at most) would be required taking account the 2 new pieces and the existing door panel to secure the three pieces together. <S> Just glue might work also if the glue is water and temp resistent (outdoor side). <S> I've included a small diagram of a potential mock layout, the blue would be the new piece of wood. <S> This would be the inside, just repeat the same for the outside. <S> Another option would be to replace the door entirely.
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I would try the Bondo Wood Filler or there's a Minwax High-Performance Filler that is similar.
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Electric requirements for gas stove I am buying a new house (new construction) and it currently has an electric stove. One of the changes we've put in the contract it to 'remove the electric stove and adapt the stove cavity for a gas stove". We're not having them install the new appliance - we're buying that separately. I noticed on the contract that they changed my wording (approx. above) to "Run a gas line to the stove". The area currently has 220V to the cavity. I'm worried that the gas stove will need a 110V outlet in addition to the gas line (for ignition, convection fans, clock, etc.)Should I be worried that when the new stove arrives, we won't be able to hook it up? Or will it use 220? Or is there a 'simple fix'? <Q> Get the 220v outlet while you can. <S> With that wiring, you can run two 110v circuits in the future or install an electric oven if you change your mind. <S> Running another line in the future would be much more difficult, so now is the time to have it installed. <S> The only change you'll likely have to make is replacing the double breaker with two single breakers if you want 110v, which any electrician should be able to do with minimal effort. <A> I can't comment on replies yet (at least not these) -- I agree with the receptacle adapter and keeping the 220 circuit as-is. <S> Some stoves have specific requirements for placement, and not knowing could you require you to have a plumber come in to relocate it. <S> Older stoves had more wiggle room in the back, whereas newer stoves have strict requirements because they engineer the stoves to make maximum use of the space available. <S> You may want to figure out your stove first, then read the manual and tell them exactly where the stub should be placed. <S> It also couldn't hurt to double-check the clearance needed in the area where the receptacle is located -- <S> an additional adapter like that could prevent you from pushing the stove up against the wall. <A> My recommendation for stove, furnace, water heater, and dryer; is to run a 220v, 110v, and gas line while it is still easy to do so. <S> This will maintain flexibility for the future. <S> The gas lines should have a shutoff on the end, while also as far away from the devices as is feasible. <S> This will limit the chance of otherwise unused pipes from having an unnoticed leak, until you go to use it. <S> ( At which point you should check it anyway. ) <S> The unused electrical lines should either be connected to a breaker normally, or the hot should be grounded. <S> To some this may seem to be overkill. <S> To them I say "Yeah <S> ... so?". <S> Everyone can change their minds.
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Something else to consider though, is placement of the gas line stub.
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Do I need a rain\snow cover on this furnace vent? Just bought a house that had a new furnace installed this summer. Vent number 1 in the image is for the furnace (2 is the water heater and 3 is sump). As you can see in the image, 2 and 3 both would require water (rain/snow/whatever) to travel up before getting into the pipe, but the vent for the furnace doesn't. I am worried that a winding raint or snowy day, and moisture could blow right into this vent. From there is a straight and down path into the furnace. Can I (or should I) install some type of flap or add another bend to the PVC to point it down? I did notice that both neighbors seem to have the exact same setup as mine, and this is the first house I have owned so I just am not sure. <Q> I have the same setup, and this appears to be the industry standard for high efficiency gas furnaces. <S> WARNING <S> -- There is a danger here of the screen condensing and freezing, thus blocking the exhaust. <S> You should remove it in winter time. <S> If your local five-year-old hooligans cannot be kept away in the winter, then check it often for freezing in extreme cold conditions. <A> However, if the furnace is off in the summer, might want to have a removeable end cap to keep the bugs, bees, wasps, etc. <S> from nesting and also prevent children from sticking a hose down the pipe. <S> A little water is OK, little Johnny playing fireman is not. <A> I cover both the furnace exhaust and air intake with aluminum foil in the summer. <S> Otherwise, wasps might nest in there.
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I turn off the electricity to the furnace and post a big note over the switch to remind me to remove the foil before turning on the furnace. What I have done is take a piece of plastic screen, and hose clamped it over the end due to a couple of 5 year old hooligans that run around my back yard and find such outlets very attractive for the experimental dropping of pebbles and other small items. No, any extra water (from snowflakes and rain) that run down the exhaust will drain out with the condensate.
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Decent Brand Names for Beginner Carpentry I have done a few small projects but nothing too extravagant without a table saw. I would like to get more into woodworking but the one tool I don't have right now it's a table saw. All the rest of my tools are craftsman, but I have seen other brands like Genesis and Rockford in my price range too. Is there a better between brands like these for starters or does it really mainly matter once you get into the higher priced equipment? <Q> I think the typical "you get what you pay for" rule of thumb applies for the most part. <S> That being said, sometimes things are cheap because they are not designed to last under heavy load like drills that use plastic gears instead of metal. <S> In these cases, assuming you only lightly use the tool, they might last for decades. <S> Some other tools are cheap because they are just poorly made. <S> An example of this is a tablesaw whose guide isn't accurate or <S> that slips when used. <S> But again, it really depends what you are doing with it. <S> If you are just doing rough cuts, a 1/16th slip might not be a big deal for you, but for precise work, it will. <S> The good thing about online shopping is that many of these products have customer reviews on them where you can read about actual experiences. <S> I suggest that you review these for the tools you are considering and come to your own conclusions. <S> Also talk to the staff at your local tool store - they usually have good insight on this type of thing. <S> Always keep warranty and return policy in mind - even expensive tools can break and the warranty makes the difference between years of service or a paper weight. <A> You can find reviews that are more oriented towards woodworkers (as opposed to general carpentry work) in one of the good woodworking magazines- <S> Fine Woodworking for example. <S> Several of the magazines do an annual tool review issue that you might still find on newsstands, or you may be able to find back issues at a library. <S> Fine Woodworking also has a lot of content from the magazine online (including back issues, technique videos, etc.) <S> I think this could be useful to you because they will explain what rating criteria they are considering and why they consider that important to a woodworker. <S> Also if you are just getting started you will articles on table saw techniques that should be helpful in deciding what you really need in a saw. <A> Honestly, if you're planning to really get into wood working, you should try and buy the better brands from the beginning. <S> I have used a lot of cheap brands and good brands, like Milwaukee, Dewalt, Makita, Jet, etc., and long term there is a big difference. <S> I have also found that the better brands are more reliable when you are doing precision work. <S> Another good thing about buying the better quality tools is that you can generally use them for other projects around the house, so you get more for your money in the long run. <S> A good screw gun, or saws-all, for example, can be use for many projects that require fixing, not just for woodworking. <S> One piece of advice I would give you is to buy one at a time, so you don't break the bank. <S> I usually buy one or two new power tools a year. <S> After several years I have been able to build up a nice collection of the really good tools that will last a long time, and I haven't broken the bank. <S> The last tip I would offer is to check Harbor Freight Tools now and then. <S> Sometimes, depending on the kind of tool you need, you can get a tool that will do a good job for a long time, but won't cost much. <S> I bought a router there a long time ago for cheap and it still works really well. <S> Hope this helps! <A> I've been looking at buying a table saw for the last few weeks as well. <S> I think I've decided on the Ridgid R4512 for $500. <S> From what I can tell, it's a good entry level saw with plenty of features. <S> Cast iron top Riving knife Easy lift/roll mechanism (handy for small shops/garages) <S> Lifetime warranty See this review for more information. <S> (I have no affiliation with Ridgid or HD) <A> More people end up with lousy looking finished projects or, worse yet, injured as a result of buying inferior tools.
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Always buy the best tools you can afford.
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Why did a gate post rot after just 6 years? My friend put a 4 inch treated wood gate post in the ground and we filled the hole with concrete. A neighbor built a fence around the same time, using similar-looking posts. Six years later, the post rotted out but the fence is still going strong. Did we do something wrong? <Q> This can be easily avoided if the concrete is slightly above ground grade and domed or tapered away from the post so water doesn't lay against the wood. <S> Drainage is the key, keep standing water away from the posts and they will last a lot longer. <A> This all depends on soil conditions. <S> Loamy soil with good drainage, the concrete is probably OK. <S> Clay soil, the concrete doesn't really do anything short of trapping water against the wood. <S> In both cases, many people suggest not using concrete at all. <S> Instead, dig the hole deeper than the post and then add some gravel to the bottom. <S> Insert the post, then tamp loose gravel/ <S> crushed rock around the post. <S> This gives a sturdy post, with plenty of drainage so that water is never trapped against the post. <S> I was lazy and went the concrete route, but did a somewhat half-and-half. <S> I dug the hole, added gravel, put in the post, added a bit more gravel, then quick-set concrete. <S> It was quicker and less labor, but I still got the advantage of some drainage at the bottom. <S> Ideally, you'd never put any wood underground, but that's not always a practical solution in terms of cost/labor. <S> If that's not an issue, consider some of the newer synthetic woods on the market or even galvanized posts. <S> Finally, some treated lumber isn't just treated very well. <S> Maybe there was a bad batch. <S> Also, be sure not to cut the post and put the cut-side down. <S> If you do do that, you need to dip the post in some form of rot preventer first (basically, re-treating the exposed wood) <S> Final comment: If I ever build a fence again, I won't bother with PT posts. <S> I'd spring for Cedar and then treat the bottom portions myself. <S> The PT stuff was so wet it all ended up twisting and splitting for years afterward. <A> Shirlock's answer is absolutely correct. <S> Fence posts rot where the post exits the soil. <S> One square ft. of soil contains millions of microbes. <S> The soil builds up around the base of the post and acts like a sponge to retain moisture. <S> The moisture and soil is fuel for fungi and the oxygen fuels the rot. <S> Rot needs four elements to spread. <S> Rot can not start underground as some people believe. <S> There is no oxygen. <S> That is why when you pull out an old fence post the rot only goes a couple of inches below the grade or where the post exists the concrete, the bottom of the post is solid. <S> Yes fence posts rot well before the fence boards. <S> Crowning the concrete, or bringing the concrete above the grade and sloping it away from the post is a great way to keep the soil away and rotting the post, however soil can still build up above where the concrete is crowned and concrete holds moisture also like a sponge. <S> One problem is the wood swells when it get wet and will crack the concrete creating a gap between the post and concrete, creating a pool where water drains into the gap. <S> There is a product called The Post Collar that we use to protect the base of the post where it exits the concrete. <S> Also one nick from a weed-eater and a pressure treated post is now nothing more than Fir. <S> The Post Collar protects from garden equipment. <S> It also has a materiel that acts like a buffer between the post and concrete to eliminate the cracking I wrote of above. <S> The Post Collar has an inner mastic material that is both fungi proof <S> but you can nail into it and <S> the nails self seals, the outer shell is coated galvanized steel. <S> I have been using it for a couple years now. <S> I am a fence contractor and we have now increased our warranty to 20 years on all posts using the Collar. <S> I suppose one could be made using the same mechanics but they are very inexpensive. <S> They also work in preventing cracking in concrete in freezing climates. <S> I use this product and recommend it daily but do not own any part of the company that makes them. <S> It is just the answer to collar rot. <A> I've had rotting posts with all the treated post brands. <S> I spend the extra buck and buy red redwood. <S> Stay away from the white redwood blend. <S> They have a new rubber wrap too, sticky on one side that your supposed to put against the post and above the ground level. <S> I don't mind replacing the posts so much <S> but I hate to dig out the concrete. <S> Any one tried the square hollow plastic posts? <S> Cement it in and leave it about 2 inches above the ground level. <S> Then stick your favorite 4X4 inside it. <S> Sounds like that might work too. <S> That way if it rots you just pull the old post and slip in a new one. <A> I have one side of our garden with wooden post into concrete. <S> The fence and post have been up for more than thirty years. <S> The base where the post meets the concrete is clear of soil. <S> I check this every year and also use a good quality oild based preservative at the bottom of the wooden poste. <S> Again I do this every year. <S> On the other side of the garden I have wooden post put into a metal metpost. <S> Before I put in the wooden post into the metpost I put plenty of grease inside the metpost and treated the base of the wooden post also. <S> This fence has been up for fifteen years and is still fine no rot. <S> Check the post once a year and keep on top of it. <S> To me that is the key.
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The most common failure with posts in concrete is "collar rot", where the post rots right at the point where it exits the concrete at the ground line.
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Best practice for oily rag safety? Most everyone's heard about piles of oily/greasy rags igniting. Linseed oil seems to be a popular culprit for it, but I've also recently heard claims of common automotive oil being involved. I've run across a couple recommendations, but I have no idea if there are any better ways to handle them. Also wondering if there's a certain threshold as to quantity of material required for them to ignite. Is it a problem just with natural oils, or are synthetics also involved? Recommendations I'm aware of include: Seal rags in side a metal bucket (with lid). Allow rags to dry (spread out), then throw out normally. The metal bucket sounds good, but what happens when you have to transfer them into a trash bag? Spreading them out to dry seems unproductive, especially with synthetic auto oil which never seems to dry. I've experimented with putting a pile of synthetic auto oil soaked rags in a plastic bag (worst case scenario based on my reading) and not only did they NOT catch on fire, but there was no detectable increase in temperature. I've seen so much conjecture on this important topic, hopefully there are people on hear that can bring some science to bear on the problem! :-) <Q> From the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) of Klean-Strip® Boiled Linseed Oil. <S> Flammable Properties and Hazard <S> RISK OF FIRE FROM SPONTANEOUS COMBUSTION EXISTS WITH THIS PRODUCT. <S> Oily rags, waste, and other oily materials can cause spontaneous combustion fires if not handled properly. <S> Immediately after use, and before disposal or storage, you MUST (1) Spread out all oily materials outside to dry by flattening them out to their full size in an airy spot for 24 hours at temperatures above 40 degrees F, or <S> (2) Wash them thoroughly with water and detergent and rinse. <S> Repeat until you have removed all oil from all clothes, tools, rags, paper, clothing, mops, and any other materials contacted during use or as a result of an accidental spill. <S> Make certain all wash and rinse water is disposed of properly. <S> It also says the Flash Point is 250°F, but has "No data" on the Autoignition Temperature . <S> The principle at work here is that Linseed Oil cures due to Reduction Oxidation , a chemical reaction which creates heat ( Exothermic Reaction ). <S> If the heat cannot dissipate quickly enough (insulated by a pile of rags, for example), the process can accelerate creating more heat and eventually resulting in combustion. <S> It's always a good idea to check the MSDS for any chemicals you use. <A> The trouble with linseed oil, especially boiled linseed oil, is that it generates heat as it dries. <S> If you leave BLO-soaked rags in a pile, the drying process proceeds but heat is trapped. <S> The drying process accelerates as the rags warm up, and the temperature rises to the point of ignition. <S> Spreading the rags out lets the heat escape so that the drying process can proceed safely. <S> I've heard of people just spreading the rags out on their shop floor without problem, but I'd suggest putting them outside just to be safe. <S> I don't know if the risk of spontaneous combustion is as high with motor oil, but whether it is or not the fact remains that oily rags are highly combustible and should be handled with care. <S> It's worth putting them in an appropriate container to prevent sources of ignition from reaching the rags, to limit the oxygen that reaches the rags, and to contain a fire should one occur. <A> to avoid fire you can do a few things: remove fuel: not as easy, but washing the rags and disposing of the waste water properly should reduce the risk here <S> remove air: storing the rags in a sealed can or under sand or submerged in water (you can add detergent to wash them at the same time) will take care of that remove heat: <S> if you keep the rags under the combustion temp there will be no combustion (a fridge or freezer will do). <A> An Oily Rags Bucket is not just a metal bucket with a lid, nor is it sealed, ever (explosions are worse than a fire). <S> It is a specially designed container incapable of being left open while it remains upright. <S> The top handle keeps it from opening past a 45 degree angle; self closing. <S> The means of disposal may differ, however the safe storage of oily rags requires the proper container. <A> Just like uranium, you widely disperse the material to prevent "critical mass". <S> I'm notorious for scattering rags all over the place, preferably outside. <S> A couple weeks in the weather, their exothermic behavior is at an end. <S> Then into an outside dumpster, or a "fire-resistant recycling bin", which our shop is fortunate to still have.
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You can avoid heat buildup from curing (as mentioned by Tester101) by spreading them out or hanging them on a clothesline (remember to properly ventilate)
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Should I insulate a finished basement if there is only 3 degrees difference? We are finishing our basement and I'm wondering if it is worth putting in insulation if there is only a 3 degrees temperature difference from my upper floors to my basement. This is during the winter months. The temperature in my basement stands at 66 degrees in the winter. <Q> A couple things to consider. <S> Depending on the floor surface above, insulation may make them a bit more comfortable <S> (although I would not expect a dramatic difference with the basement that close to room temperature), and may provide some sound insulation if that matters. <S> If you don't have warm-air ducts in the ceiling, and sound isn't an issue, the payback on saved heating costs would probably be pretty long. <A> If there is currently no insulation, the basement is being heated from above. <S> Putting in insulation would thus make the basement somewhat colder, and reduce the heating-costs upstairs. <S> How much depends on how well the basement is insulated from outside. <S> Insulation also helps with soundproofing, if this matters to you or now, depends on what you use the basement for, so can only be answered by you. <S> If air moves freely between basement and house (i.e. no plastic-membrane or other air-tight barrier) then insulating it may make the basement moister. <S> What happens is that warm are (which can carry more moisture) gets into the basement where it's colder, which leads to higher moisture (or in extreme cases even condensation - you've surely seen that warm air with moisture that hits a cold surface sometimes causes condensation) <S> If this is a concern, it might be an argument against insulation. <A> For me, a 66F (18C) space is a bit cold. <S> I am okay with that temperature at night while sleeping, but not while I'm working in my office or just sitting watching TV. <S> Retrofitting for insulation after the basement is finished is a major task, and basically involves tearing down all the exterior drywall and hoping you've done the studs correctly. <S> Depending on your finish, it's at least half the work it would take if the basement was totally unfinished to start with, and more work if you have bathrooms or tile work or lots of interior walls touching. <S> Consider not just your use, but future use. <S> If I was purchasing the house from you, my offer price would not only reflect my thinking that the basement is effectively unfinished (because I have to redo it), but that I also have to spend a day tearing out and disposing of half the work you've done. <S> The other aspect to this is that your basement is currently being heated, so of course there is not a huge temperature difference. <S> You are likely losing a large amount of heat through the walls. <S> The change you'll see when you insulate is that your furnace will run much less often and your utility bills will be lower as a result. <S> One way you can see this is by using an infrared thermometer. <S> Compare the temperature of your basement walls to your upstairs walls. <S> I would suspect your upstairs walls will be very close to room temperature, and your basement walls will be more in the 10C / 50F range. <S> To me, this is a no-brainer. <S> Insulate the walls and put in a vapour barrier (or use closed-cell spray foam, which is WAY better insulation and doubles as vapour barrier, but is more expensive). <S> You should also consider insulating the floor or putting in a raised sub-floor. <S> I did this in my basement and it feels basically the same as an upstairs floor (both in the temperature, and the "feel" of walking on it) instead of cold, hard concrete with carpet on top.
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If you have heat ducts in the floor of the upper level (i.e., the basement ceiling), you may be losing heat into the basement; insulating them (and especially sealing any leaks) may prevent heat from being "wasted" by warming the basement.
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How can I keep a door closed without a damper? Got a door which does not have the spring lock which locks the door when you close it. Leave the door closed, and it'll soon be wide open even with a little gust of wind. Currently we're wedging a handful of paper between the door and the door frame, so that it'd stay closed when we close it. The more elegant option of course, is to use a damper which will slowly close the door once it's been opened. But dampers are a bit expensive for such a trivial function, and then there are the installation charges too. Is there a better way to ensure the door remains closed (a simple, elegant, less expensive option. Installing a spring lock is expensive)? EDIT: One more requirement from my Dad was that since with any of the below solutions the door will appear to be closed, the people inside the house would think it is locked, while any stranger who comes along and slightly pushes the door will be able to get in. It'd help if the door closing mechanism has a way to let the people indoors know that the door is just closed, and not locked. Safety. Problem is that an LED would require a small transformer for getting power from the AC mains (batteries aren't really a long-term option). Having a safety mechanism is a bit tricky. <Q> Attach one bracket to the door frame. <S> Attach the other bracket to the door. <S> Install the pins to hold arm in brackets. <S> Done. <S> If that's too rich for you. <S> A Screen door latch Will run you about $8.00, though installation is a bit more difficult. <S> A Barrel Bolt will cost you about $3.00, and requires 6 screws. <S> Though makes opening the door from both sides tricky. <S> If you're really hard up for cash. <S> A door catch is only about $2.00, and only requires 4 screws to install it. <S> If you only have the change you found between the couch cushions. <S> A Gate hook might be what you're looking for (~$1.50). <S> Again, this could make opening the door from both side troublesome. <S> Help an old lady cross the street, and ask her for a dollar in return. <S> Then you can get a Double Roller Catch . <S> They're typically used for cabinets, but might work for you if the wind is not too strong. <A> From your comment, it sounds like you are looking for some interior hardware rather than something for a storm door. <S> A ball or bullet catch with strike plate would be best for this situation. <S> You can find them for less than $5, so I don't think this is excessive. <S> I'd also suggest paying a couple extra bucks for an adjustable style since it already sounds like your door may have moved out of square. <S> It's recessed into the door so that it looks much nicer than a damper or other storm door hardware. <S> I usually see them on the top center of french closet doors, but I'm sure it works just as well as a replacement for a standard door latch. <A> If you are talking about a storm door, you don't have the money and just need a quick fix for a few weeks or so, then maybe just tie a string to the storm door handle, pull <S> it shut nice and tight, then close your main door while still holding the string tight and wrap it to the door handle on the inside. <S> It's kinda ghetto <S> but it'll work until you get the cash to fix it, and it beats having the wind blow one good time <S> and you losing your door all together. <S> I used this fix in a similar situation. <S> Good luck. <A> A door magnet latch like this will work. <S> If the wind is heavy, use more than one. <A> I've seen a simple solution to this using a pulley and some light rope from then a bottle full of sand. <S> The idea is you: - hook the rope to the door (at the top, opposite side to the hindge) via a small hook - then another hook/pulley near where the first hook would meet on the door frame - from there you can direct it to another hook and pulley on the hinge side of the door frame if you want the bottle hung down on the hindge side - Finally you let the rope down towards the ground tying it to the bottle - You can vary the amount of sand to slow or speed up how quickly the door shuts, and how much force is required to open it again. <S> Works well, especially if it might be temporary. <S> You can make it look as nice or crude as you like by using nicer rope and a nicer bottle too. <S> Here is an example picture. <S> Although its a little rough looking compared to what I first saw. <A> For inside doors I've pulled out the hinge pin and bent it slightly and then hammered it back in. <S> Works good for doors that won't stay shut. <S> Not sure if this will work for your door though. <A> $3 solution here. <S> The one thing I would add is a washer at the top to keep the spring from moving. <S> As far as telling people it’s not locked, I would suggest a “Pull to Open” sign. <S> https://youtu.be/pQypqztBv4 <S> M https://www.amazon.com/Spring-Hinge-Door-Closer-Fits/dp/B06XZDM7B6/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=Door+closer&qid=1592506447&sr=8-7
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A Pneumatic Door Closer can cost you less than $10.00, and is easily installed with 5-6 screws.
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What are the pros/cons of installing floors before doors? I've heard contractors say to install doors first then flooring, and others suggest the opposite. I'm installing new 3/4" prefinished flooring and new doors/closets (prehung wood/ primed white). What are the advantages/disadvantages to installing the doors after the floors? What sequence would result in the best finish? Thanks <Q> I like to put the flooring in first. <S> If you're working on the last row against a wall with a door in it, and you have to cut a piece that's half strip against the wall for half its length, and a full strip in the doorway, it's easier to get it into place if the jamb isn't in the way. <S> It also means you can get the fit better at the bottom of the door jambs, without needing to use a flush-cut saw to trim the jamb before you can fit a floorboard under it, or ending up with a gap between the jamb and the floorboards. <S> As far as cons, I guess putting the doors in first means less activity in the room once the floors are in place, and thus less risk for dropping a hammer and marring the floor, or tracking dirt across the finished surface. <A> Sounds like carpenters don’t like doing things the difficult proper way of a construction schedule. <S> All I here is it’s harder for a carpenter to install doors after floors are installed. <S> Cover floor for protection where needed. <S> In a sandable floor, no cover needed <A> Theres one good reason to install the doors first and that is if your floor is not level across the threshold (almost always off by some factor in my house). <S> Before the floors go in you can easily shim one end of the jamb to get the door exactly plumb. <S> After floors this would be a huge pain to do since you would need to pull the door out and saw the jamb. <S> Also, maybe others are more careful but I found it's hard not to ding the floor a little bit when doing doors afterwards. <S> I also like a very tiny gap between the floor and jamb to slide paper under when painting which saves a ton of time. <S> The person who installed my floors used a proper tool (not a trim saw) and cut the jambs very precise
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It’s human nature to seek the easier softer way, but it only makes common sense that you install floors first then have a skilled carpenter to put door frames on top of floor, then trim around door last.
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How do I connect a stranded wire to a bus bar? A typical bus bar has this design: and connecting a solid wire to it is more or less easy. But how do I connect a stranded wire? I expect the following to happen: when I drive the screw in, the screw splits the strands and so I end up with the screw driven in and the strands all around the screw instead of being pressed to the bus bar. I'd like to avoid this and get a good connection capable of carrying many amperes of current. How do I connect a stranded wire to a bus bar? <Q> I sell a lot of stranded wire <S> and I've never heard of anybody tinning a wire that goes on a neutral or ground bar. <S> AFGI & GFCI breakers come with stranded copper and is rated to fit into these bars, along with solid. <S> I would just make sure the hole you are using matches up with the wire you are using. <S> Most of the ground and neutral bars have different size lugs with different size ratings, like 14 to 10 awg, or 14 to 4 awg or 6 to 2/0 awg. <A> You could tin the wire with solder, or connect it to a pigtail of solid wire, and connect that to the bus bar. <A> Try it. <S> The splitting you expect just doesn't happen. <S> The stripped wire should be long enough that it extends past the screw a little bit, so the screw isn't bearing on the very end of the wire. <S> The screws are sized so they take up most of the hole <S> and they don't pierce the stranded wire, they just flatten it and jam the strands together. <S> Assuming the bus bar and the wire are certified for use with each other, proper size etc., <S> and you're using the screws which come with the bus bar.
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If this is going to be carrying household current (i.e., this is the bus bar in your panel), I'd terminate the stranded wire in a jbox near the panel and use a length of NM to the panel itself.
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How high I should install a 52 inch TV on the wall? I'm going to hang my TV to the wall and I want to know how much from ground is standard for 52 inch TV? <Q> First, sit on your couch in the ideal viewing position (ie: where your butt imprint is). <S> The bottom 1/3 of the TV should be at eye level when mounted. <S> Everyone has an opinion about exact positioning, but this is more or less the general rule of thumb I've found from various sources, and it has always worked well for me. <S> I find most people mount them too high. <S> No one likes sitting in the front-row at the movie theater, so why do it at home? <A> A small addition to Steven's answer:Our eyes are designed to focus 8' away from us when looking directly ahead, at our hands when looking down, and not so much looking up. <A> I would not want to be looking up at the TV. <S> I have found that snacking is uncomfortable when looking anywhere above straight ahead as well as a pain in the neck. <A> Just to add another preference: I like my TV a little lower; eye level around 2/3 up the screen <S> (more in line with OSHA's computer monitor height ergonomic recommendations ). <S> The only real answer is to try it, preferably with an adjustable-height table or something before it's permanently mounted. <S> I built an entertainment cabinet a year or so ago, and in preparation spent several weeks with my TV on a coffee table with various stacks of books to find a good height. <S> If you just spend 2 seconds looking at a cardboard cutout taped to the wall you're not going to get a good sense of how it feels.
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I think I would go for the center of the TV at the eyeball height of an average person.
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Is a duplex outlet's max amperage rating for each socket or the whole unit? If you have a duplex outlet thats rated for lets say 20 amps, is the whole unit rated for 20 amps, or is each socket rated for 20 amps? Edit: So if I had a circuit that had a 40A breaker on it, could I have 2 devices that both draw a max of 20A on the same duplex outlet? <Q> Each socket can supply up to 20 amps. <S> However, the total draw of everything on the circuit can also not exceed 20 amps. <S> However, if you have a 15A device on the circuit, the remaining devices can only draw up to 5A. <S> Basically, the sum of the current draws for every device on the circuit has to be less then 20A. <A> the wire supplying the current and the breaker is rated for 20 amps as well this means that max current you can draw is 20 amps before the breaker trips but you can draw it all from a single socket if need be <A> Both. <S> Each receptacle is rated for 20A, and the whole device is rated for 20A. <S> So you can draw 20A from the top receptacle. <S> You can draw 20A from the bottom receptacle. <S> Or any combination less than or equal to 20A. <S> But you cannot draw more than 20A on any part of the device. <S> Looking at the guts of a receptacle, might make it a bit more clear. <S> When the tabs between the terminals are in place, a total of 20 amperes can flow through the duplex receptacle. <S> However, if you remove the tabs, each set of contacts is still capable of carrying 20 amperes. <S> Which means if the receptacle is supplied by two separate 20 ampere branch circuits, you can power 20 amperes worth of load from each set of contacts.
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Therefore, if you only have one device on the circuit, it can draw up to 20A from any one outlet.
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How do I shift a door's latch hole and strike plate up or down half an inch? I have a few interior doors that do not latch closed because the bolting mechanism and latch hole are vertically misaligned. If I remove the strike plate I can extend the size of the latch hole, but then one of the screw holes of the strike plate ends up over the (now bigger) latch hole and the screw won't hold. (Note: I don't want to move the door hinges since the doors align nicely in the casings.) <Q> If you can, glue a plug into the latch hole and similarly drill out the existing screw holes with a 1/4" bit and glue plugs of 1/4" dowel into them. <S> Now you have a blank slate to re-locate the strike plate wherever you want to. <A> You can put in a "dutchman" into the existing hole in the jamb and then rebore the hole / mortise the strike. <S> A dutchman is nothing more than a wood "patch". <S> If you have a Fein Multimaster type tool (oscillating saw), it's pretty easy to do - especially if it's paint grade trim. <A> The answers above are the correct and proper ways. <S> However, an alternative way is to temporarily screw a piece of 3/4" wood over the new hole location and drill from there. <S> The plywood will keep your hole saw straight. <S> Then you can purchase an oversized plate made for the thickness of your door that wraps around the strike. <S> Doesn't look good, makes it look like you repaired door when after it got kicked in.
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Use a spade bit for the latch hole (3/4" or 7/8" or 1" - use the whatever is closest to the size of the strikeplate hole).
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How do I remove permanent marker from a solid hardwood table? A black permanent marker was used on my kitchen table. My daughter is 3, my bad for leaving the marker out! An image of the damage: The top circled area shows one mark. The bottom circle is where my wife tried to scrub another black mark, and unfortunately the table in that area looks scuffed up now. Some information on the the table: Handcrafted of solid hardwood known for its heft and pronounced grain Hand planed, sanded and finished in antiqued grey to enhance its distressed look By their nature, unsealed wood planks may be somewhat uneven, and may cup or bow slightly over time, further enhancing their rustic one-of-a-kind character; cracks may be present A full description of the table: http://www.restorationhardware.com/catalog/product/product.jsp?productId=prod150011 <Q> Often permanent markers can be removed with isopropyl alcohol. <S> First, assuming you still have the markers, I'd try using this to remove it from a test surface. <S> If it works, then try on the bottom of your table to ensure it does not damage the finish. <S> If it is safe, then use it to try and remove the marker from your table. <A> I just tried "Goof Off" http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/ on the underside of my table and it worked very well. <S> Of course the underside of my table is sealed with polyurethane. <S> You might just want to leave it. <S> This seems strange at first, but I resigned myself to it years ago. <S> Now when I look at the child inflicted damage around my house <S> I think of it as the history of my family in this house. <A> If it's unsealed, the ink has likely permeated into the grain. <S> In the end, it might come down to getting out the power sander. <A> I do a lot of detailing work and have had to find ways to either remove or cover up markings made by all sorts of things including paints, permanent markers and worse. <S> I've experimented with home remedies like rubbing alc., peroxide, toothpaste and vinegar as well as commercial products like goof off. <S> Other products may work to some degree, on something like perm. <S> marker, <S> but they usually leave a faded mark. <S> The magic eraser removes it quickly and completely. <S> Another place where it give excellent results is on your auto body for removing those black scuff marks as well as oxidation and it does all this so effortlessly. <S> It's basically a marker pen which uses stain instead of ink. <S> Swipe it and wipe it till it blends. <S> They work great on nicks and scratches on all your furniture. <S> Hope this helps. <A> I've used vinegar and baking soda and a little elbow grease, which works well. <S> It didn't take the varnish off; actually it made the table brighter. <S> Then I gave it a good polishing. <A> For the scuffed section I would try this or something simliar: Scratch Cover <S> Recently, we were taking down some paper taped to a cabinet (at a relatives house) and when we removed the tape it took off part of the cabinet finish to create an unsightly spot. <S> We looked under the sink and found this product. <S> We tried it out to good results and the finish that was removed was restored. <S> I was actually surprised how good it covered the finish that was removed. <S> Please note <S> , I have no affiliation to this product or company, just sharing my experience with it. <A> Many permanent marker inks are soluble in acetone (a.k.a nail polish remover). <S> Do test it on the underside of the table first, though. <A> For posterity I would like to point out that permanent marker can sometimes be removed by running the original pen over the mark and quickly wiping with a paper towel. <S> The ink acts as its own solvent. <S> This really works. <S> Success will depend on the absorbency of the surface.
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The one product I found that really worked well when all else had failed is the "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sponge" Available at any supermarket. For the lower blemish in your picture that resulted from sanding, I'd suggest checking your local paint stores for a matching stain marker.
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How to adjust strike plate in a metal door jamb My bathroom door isn't latching properly and it seems that the strike plate is not seated properly in the jamb. It's a 1950s apartment and all the door frames are metal, so I can't just chip away some wood. What else can I try? <Q> The strike plate sticks out from the jamb? <S> Remove the strike plate and file/grind some material off where it is binding. <A> Sometimes the hinges might not be where they were when it worked correctly. <S> Make sure all your hinge screws are tight and not stripped out. <S> this can make the door sit off kilter. <S> Check your gaps around the door between the door and the jam. <S> this means compare the top to the bottom and left and right. <S> They all should be about the same distance. <S> The first answer is correct also, but check your hinge screws. <S> It could also be your problem. <A> The strike might have been replaced at some point. <S> If you have other doors in the apartment that work properly, take that strike out and compare it to the one in your bathroom. <S> That will tell you what modifications need to be made to get the door to close. <S> If you have a closet or other door you don't worry about latching, just swap them out. <A> If you rent the apartment, then the landlord is responsible for maintaining and repairing the doors and locks. <S> If you own the apartment, then you're responsible.
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Since the door jamb is steel, filing the striker plate to a larger size is your only option as long as the hinges are not causing the door to sag.
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How to fix stinky bathroom sink? It smells like really musty water, but the water itself does not smell or taste bad at all. Only happens when I run the water, so it doesn't make the room smell, just when you fill something up or wash your hands. I tried drain-o and it didn't do anything and there's GREAT flow so it's not clogged at all anyway. Only thing that has worked (temporarily) is pouring pretty much everything I could think of into it. Lemon juice, draino, bleach, etc. <Q> I'll echo the comment and say that you should make sure you have a proper P-trap installed under the sink. <S> This trap holds water and provides a seal against sewer gases getting up into the bathroom. <S> Without one, gases will leak in constantly, and will be displaced by water down the drain which can force the gases up into the bathroom even if normally it's not detectable. <S> I'll also ask if there is a proper vent for this sink. <S> Even with a P-trap, if there's nowhere for back-flowing gases to go, they'll bubble up past the trap. <S> One more thing it could be is the overflow drain. <S> Depending on the design of sink, the overflow can hold a small amount of water at the bottom where it tees in to the main drain, which can become stagnant. <S> Run water down the drain <S> and you'll force some air up the overflow (to make way for the water coming down), which will have that stagnant smell. <S> To diagnose this, plug the sink and begin filling it; you shouldn't get any musty smell at first because there's no air movement. <S> Once the water level hits the overflow drain, you will start smelling the musty smell for a while because the water is displacing the gas, which wants to rise above the water and so will move up into the bathroom. <S> The real fix is to make sure there's no "damming" effect of construction defects at the bottom of the overflow drain (a lip of porcelain, issues where the overflow meets the metal drain downpipe, etc). <A> Does it smell when you turn on the tap and catch the water in a bowl <S> (so it doesn't go down the drain)? <S> If so, it's something in the faucet . <S> Take off the aerator cap and look for gunk inside, and/or look in the barrel of the faucet if you can to clean it out. <S> You can also consider replacing the faucet. <S> (I am assuming that since this only affects the bathroom, it is not a water quality issue or bad house pipes) <S> If not, it's something in the basin, drain, trap, or overflow drain . <S> KeithS has some good answers, and I also recommend the following: Take out the drain stopper and look down the drain pipe for gunk. <S> Clean it out with a snake or unraveled coat hanger if you can. <S> Spray bleach down the drain and overflow drain to kill anything nasty in there. <S> You can bleach the basin too for cleanliness. <S> Get a large bowl or 1-5 gallon bucket. <S> Fill it with water. <S> Quickly but carefully pour all the water down the drain. <S> The goal is to fill the basin and displace all/any water in the overflow drain and trap. <S> Sometimes there can be nasty things in there that float so they don't go through the trap, and <S> this forces them out the drain pipe. <A> From what I can ascertain, it's when the water is running. <S> It's not that common, but we have had water that smelled like rotten eggs. <S> The cause was sulfur in the water. <S> If you're on municipal water, check with your utility. <S> If you're on a well, have the water tested by a lab. <S> They'll tell you what the story is. <A> We tried all that stuff, including flushing out the vent pipes with a hose to check for blockages; nothing worked. <S> I decided to crawl under the house to see if there was a sewer leak - there was a dead cat under the house! <S> If all else fails, check your crawlspace. <S> On the plus side, we now have what are probably the cleanest pipes and septic tank in town. :-) <A> For years, I tried to find the source of my stinky sinks. <S> Not just the kitchen sink, but my bathroom sinks also had a 'sewer odor'. <S> I cleaned sinks, pipes, garbage disposal, etc. <S> I cleaned, poured, disassembled and checked traps, cleaned traps <S> , you name it; I did it. <S> I never would have thought of this. <S> Isn't the dishwasher inherently "clean"? <S> I just used a commercially available dishwasher cleaner (Cascade, Finish, etc. <S> all sell them). <S> This is not a dishwasher detergent but rather a Dishwasher Cleaner . <S> Once a month I run one of these babies through my empty dishwasher on the very hot Sanitize setting and VOILA, no more stinky sinks! <S> Do yourself a favor and at least give this a try. <S> You will be amazed! <A> If the smell starts only after you turn on the water, it is probably coming from the overflow. <S> Take the stopper out and block the drain with a plastic baggy with a wet rag in it. <S> This has to block the overflow drain where it meets the regular drain. <S> Now pour the foaming snake, or other drain cleaner into the overflow. <S> Let stand then reconnect the plumbing and flush with hot water. <A> One of my children stuffed a bunch of peanuts down the overflow drain of our bathroom sink. <S> I was able to get it out with a wet dry vac, some wire to poke the stuff through and a lot of patience.
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If this is the problem, you can ameliorate it with some foaming pipe snake; pour it down the overflow drain and it will clean out any caked-on gunk which contributes to the smell, and which may be trapping the water. FINALLY , someone suggested that I clean my dishwasher.
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Can a grounding issue with newly installed light fixtures cause a short circuit/blown fuse? I have installed three lights (60 Watt Bulbs) on the same line (wire) connected to one light switch. The fuse blew when I hit the switch. I’ve connected all of the white to white and black to black. I believe the problem may be with the ground. I’ve grounded each light fixture. I believe that I was just supposed to pig tail the ground to the ground in each light fixtures and only affix the actual ground wire in the switch box to the green ground nut. Is that correct? An informed response would be greatly appreciated! <Q> Unless you connected a hot to ground, it probably is not related to the ground. <S> Sometimes with switches, when the power comes into the ceiling box first, there will be one cable to the switch from the ceiling box. <S> In this configuration you will find a black and white wire, but both are actually hot since the switch only interrupts the hot wire. <S> Take a look at the switch wiring - are both wires black, or is one black and one white? <S> If one black and one white, then one of your white wires is actually hot and should not be connected to the rest of the white (neutral) wires. <S> Remember that electricity is dangerous and there's nothing wrong with calling an electrician if you are in over your head! <A> Following up on what @Steven mentioned. <S> I am not entirely sure of your level of proficciency <S> however i have included two diagrams that illustrate the point he was making and two of the ways it can be wired. <S> The first is how i assume it would be wired however in older houses you can easily find that it is wired too the light first as is shown in second image <S> And here we have the second example which is more common in older dwellings <A> Typically the ground is never involved unless there is a problem! <S> The only exception is something like a one wire circuit that USES the ground instead of a nuetral! <S> Ony find this on things like and occupancy sensor switch designed to be installed on switch locations that are ONLY a switched leg with no nuetral in switch box (VERY COMMON) <S> an exception is made for these devices because it is teensy control circuit only...no significant amperage goes through the ground... <S> other than that? <S> You can not even have a ground in most circuits and aside from being dangerous? <S> It will all work just fine... <S> but the problem with no ground is that IF part of circuit touches metal (ground) it will "short" to ground with electricity running THROUGH your ungrounded device or equipment! <S> You would not even know because the circuit breaker probably won't care/won't trip and <S> so? <S> You grab metal ungrounded energized part <S> and it just like grabbing LIVE electrical conductor beause it HAS BECOME a conductor! <S> YOU become a a conductor and maybe your heart stops and <S> you DIE of "electrocution" which is just a long answer that NO the ground is not what was causing your problem <S> ...in all likely hood it is an "open" rather than a "short" ...an "open" is where current carrying part is not connected for some reason... <S> a blown fuse for example is most typical...
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Without seeing some pictures or diagrams, my best guess is that one of your white wires is actually a hot (and someone didn't mark it as so), so by connecting the whites (which are supposed to be neutral) together, you've created a short. I would start by disconnecting your work, verifying the fuse doesn't blow in this configuration and then start connecting the lights back up at one at a time.
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Can two circuits share a neutral? I'm finally implementing the advice given in this question , I've managed to run the wiring up to the junction box, but I'm a bit confused by the contents of that box. There are three circuits entering the box, but it appears that two circuits are sharing a single neutral. Everything appears to work (and has done so for 2+ years), but I'm curious if this is kosher from a code point of view. Should there be an individual neutral for each circuit? If so, is there a brief explanation as to why this is OK? <Q> Only if it is a split 220 volt circuit as Steven points out and it <S> It must be on a two pole circuit breaker. <S> This ensures that the circuit is two different legs and not just one, also the entire circuit will be disabled with only one breaker. <S> Each hot leg returns on this shared neutral. <S> The reasoning is that no more than the rated (breaker) current will pass through the neutral in this configuration. <S> The two "Hot" legs will tend to balance the return current. <S> Example: If both legs draw 5A, then no return current passes through the neutral. <S> If leg 1 draws 3A and leg 2 draws <S> 10A then the difference, 7A is returned through the neutral. <S> It is <S> NOT permitted to share a neutral in any other situation. <S> That will exceed the limit of the wire size and could cause a fire. <S> Also, GFCI and AFCI breakers will not work on a shared neutral circuit. <A> A multi-wire branch circuit (two hots from different phases sharing 1 neutral) is often found in the kitchen where it powers one receptacle which has the jumper connecting the upper and lower outets removed. <S> The result is that you get two 15amps circuits at one receptacle. <S> At the panel, both breakers should be bonded together so it is not possible to have one on and one off. <S> Code varies by region, but I do not think it is typically permitted in any other configuration. <S> There are also restrictions for having multiple circuits in a single junction box. <A> The "Edison 3 wire" circuit has been used for many years. <S> 240 volts between phases and 120 volts to a neutral that carries the unbalanced load of the two phases. <S> On perfectly balanced loads there will be no amperage on the neutral. <S> It is imperative to have the circuit wires on different phases, <S> i.e. 240 volts across them. <A> It depends -- how old is the house? <S> Old houses (presumably, wired per the existing code at the time) are sometimes found to be wired this way (i.e., with a shared return leg). <S> Legs L1 and L2 are each fused (or breakered) and share a return leg as far as the first junction box. <S> Thereafter Leg L1 and a neutral branch one way, and Leg L2 and a neutral branch the other. <S> This was done to save copper and reduce then number of cables needed. <S> Three points: <S> > <S> 15 amps)In older houses code did not require the double pole or handle tie breakers. <S> The two breakers should be ganged together, so that if one trips, both will trip, and all junction boxes in the circuits become deenergized. <S> The two hot leads from the power panel (two black, or one black one red) MUST be wired to opposite legs (one to L1, the other to L2). <S> Failure to do this (i.e., if they are both wired to the same phase) <S> results in DOUBLE the current running in the common Or neutral conductor, and could cause an electrical fire. <A> Bottom line is you can share a neutral if the two hot wires are on different phases and the breakers are locked together <A> You can share up to 3 circuits in 3 phase using 1 neutral but the 3 circuit breakers must be tied together with a breaker bridge so when 1 tries or 1 is turned off they all are off with no chance of getting bit by the neutral
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If you were to share a neutral with two breakers on the same leg of a panel, both circuits could draw the breaker limit (lets say 15A) making the shared neutral as much as 30A return current! In newer houses The two circuits must be on a double pole breaker for the smallest gauge wire used in the two circuits (e.g., 14 Ga. == Be careful working on this - even if the breaker is off, check for voltage with a non-contact tester to ensure there are no other live circuits.
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How do I secure a vinyl window to the wall? When installing my vinyl windows should I put a nail into every little hole around the window? It has a flange that has many little holes around it. Also what size nails would you recommend? Finally do I need to secure the window to the inside of the rough opening, as you do with a door? <Q> I would recommend galvanized nails that are 1 to 2 inches in length. <S> If there is nothing behind the flange but plywood, anything over an inch and the nail will just be sticking through the plywood. <S> I assume you will hit some framing behind the playwood, so a little longer and you will hit that. <S> I don't recall doing anything on the inside of the window when installing. <S> The most important point I remember was with the flashing on the outside. <S> Start at the bottom, then the sides, then the top so that water can be properly channelled away. <S> There is a video below in the comments showing an installation. <S> I remember it was pretty straight forward, just made sure the windows are level. <A> Yes, I'd recommend putting a nail in every single hole, roughly 1.5 inches in size. <S> I believe what you have are new construction windows because they're equipped with the nailing flange along the outer frame. <S> Typically, vinyl replacement windows don't come attached with this kind of flange for easy installation. <A> From personal experience, installing a nail in every hole is wasting time and materiel. <S> Most instructions recommend every other hole, which will cover any unlikely warranty issues. <S> A good resource for this question can be found at This Old House . <S> I find that "This Old House" is a great resource for learning the proper way to accomplish construction tasks. <S> Keep in mind that they do not share any shortcuts...
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Yes put a nail into every hole. I looked over my new vinyl windows in my sunroom and there are no attachment points on the inside of the window.
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Can two circuits' neutrals be tied together (not a single neutral wire, but two that have been connected)? Related to but different from this question , I have two three-way switches in my house, which are in multi-gang boxes at the top and bottom of the staircase and control lights at the top and bottom landings. I know for a fact, having fixed the "hot" side of the wiring to the three-way switches before, that the switches (along with others in both boxes) are fed by different circuits. However, all of the white neutrals in each box are twisted together into one bundle and wire-nutted; this predates any work I did on the circuit, but I don't know if this is the work of the original electrician or the "handyman" whose work I've been fixing since I moved in. As these joined neutrals include the travelers of both three-way circuits, the neutrals from the nearest light to each box, and the neutral heading back to the panel from each box, these two circuits' neutrals have multiple junction points that tie the neutrals together. Is this dangerous (from a fire hazard perspective)? My Google-fu brought up some similar questions, but the answers were all along the lines of answers to the related question in the link: "a shared neutral is bad". However, this isn't a "shared neutral" as in one white wire carrying the load from two circuits; this is two white wires carrying the load from two circuits, but the two white wires are both carrying the load from either circuit. So, to my way of thinking, there's plenty of copper to get the power back to the panel without overheating. And obviously there are no AFCI/GFCI breakers in the house (plenty of GFCI receptacles), because everything on both circuits works fine (they'd trip as soon as I turned a light on otherwise). The only concern AFAIK would be shock safety, as you'd basically have to make sure both of the breakers were off before working in either switch box (something I would do anyway; I wouldn't want ANYTHING hot in either box if I were messing with these switches, regardless of whether the neutrals are separate or not). EDIT: picture == word*1000: <Q> This is a safety hazard. <S> An electrical system must remain safe (not hurt a user or overheat and cause a fire) even if there is a failure. <S> In your situation it is true that the neutrals will not be overloaded under normal conditions. <A> It's not legal nor safe, and would not pass an inspection. <S> There's the potential for some weird current-loop effects there as well; heating of metal components, Electromagnetic interference (EMI) , etc. <S> Having said that, I've seen much worse. <A> EDITED FOR CLARIFICATION: <S> If this is wired as you have drawn it, then it will not be a safety issue. <S> Because both circuits are fused for 15A, each neutral will only see a maximum of 15A. <S> This is providing that both neutrals are solidly connected! <S> If one were to become loose or disconnected then the other can potential see the full load, 15A*2=30A. <S> I recommend you wire it the right way. <S> With either breaker off, that circuit will be isolated from the energized circuit. <S> The only common path between the two is the shared neutral. <S> If the energized circuit were to draw the breaker maximum of 15A, the de-energized neutral potential would be at maximum only a few hundred millivolts, not posing a safety risk. <S> Also it is not against code to have more than one feed in a jbox or switch box. <A> You will need to separate the neutrals -- this is both unsafe as already explained and a 200.4(A) violation: Installation. <S> Thankfully, Tester101's already given us an illustration of <S> how : Also, to avoid this happening again, tag the neutral conductors as per 200.4(B): Multiple Circuits. <S> Where more than one neutral conductor associated with different circuits is in an enclosure, grounded circuit conductors of each circuit shall be identified or grouped to correspond with the ungrounded circuit conductor(s) by wire markers, cable ties, or similar means in at least one location within the enclosure. <S> Another argument against this is given by 300.3(B): <S> Conductors of the Same Circuit. <S> All conductors of the same circuit and, where used, the grounded conductor and all equipment grounding conductors and bonding conductors shall be contained within the same raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or cord, unless otherwise permitted in accordance with 300.3(B)(1) through (B)(4). <S> and 310.10(H)(1) <S> (ignore the exceptions, they do not apply to residential wiring): <S> General. <S> Aluminum, copper-clad aluminum, or copper conductors, for each phase, polarity, neutral, or grounded circuit shall be permitted to be connected in parallel <S> (electrically joined at both ends) only in sizes 1/0 AWG and larger where installed in accordance with 310.10(H)(2) through (H)(6). <S> See this article for more details on why your current configuration is a bad idea in general. <A> So the two lights have different Active lines but the two circuits have their Neutrals tied together? <S> This means both circuit's Neutral lines are sharing current return. <S> This will be a problem if you ever put a safety-switch on either circuit because they measure the current imbalance between Active and Neutral to determine if there is a fault. <S> AFAIK, this is not legal wiring in Australia. <A> It isn't an immediate safety issue. <S> Having a shared or bridged neutral is actually a very common occurrence in old work. <S> As most other posters pointed out, there is a slight risk of overload if you're close to max <S> draw on both circuits simultaneously, but it's incredibly unlikely. <S> Back on the other hand, it will rapidly become a nuisance if you place a GFCI device on one of these circuits or if you install a GFCI or AFCI breaker. <S> AFCI breakers are now required by most electrical code even for retrofit installations. <S> Any time you turn on a switch on the non-GFCI/AFCI circuit, the GFCI/AFCI device will detect an imbalance on the current that's passing via the neutral and hot, and it will trip. <S> Finding this problem and fixing it later is a pain in the butt and will require not a little wall damage to rectify. <S> (Ask me how I know.) <S> As a result, wiring the circuit this way no longer meets code. <S> I would go through the work to wire it properly for future compliance.
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But if one of the neutrals were to get disconnected at or near the breaker panel (loose screw or accidental damage to the wire itself) then the other neutral could end up carrying the current for two circuits and overheat and cause a fire. The additional neutral will only share the current in both circuits. However to answer your question, I don't see it as a safety issue if that is the only circuit on those breakers. If anything else is fed from either of those breakers, it becomes a whole other issue! Neutral conductors shall not be used for more than one branch circuit, for more than one multiwire branch circuit, or for more than one set of ungrounded feeder conductors unless specifically permitted elsewhere in this Code .
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How do I connect to a dishwasher bushing? I just bought a new dishwasher for a newly renovated house that I just bought.I am trying to install it myself. My sink drain pipe has one of these sticking out the side above the U pipe thingy like the bottom right most example. Do I just go to town on the end of that with a hacksaw and clamp on the drain hose? Edit: My sink drain looks like so with the bushing circled. I do not believe there is a hole on it. <Q> "Do I just go to town on the end of that with a hacksaw and clamp on the drain hose?" <S> Yes. <S> The end is capped so that it can be installed without being connected to anything. <S> Leaving it uncapped would leave it open for leaks if you were to fill the drainpipe. <S> For added security, use a hose clamp to secure it. <A> I would try to measure the outside of the barbed fitting, then measure the inside of the dishwasher hose. <S> If the hose is the same or slightly smaller, cut the end off of the hosebarb fitting attached to your pipe. <S> You want the barbed part to be as long as possible, so cut very close to the end. <S> Place a hose clamp on the hose, and attach your hose to the fitting. <S> Tighten the clamp. <S> Run the dishwasher and check for leaks. <A> I have not seen the fitting you show, but I don't think you can use that. <S> The hole in it seems very small. <S> You need to change the "Tailpiece" from the sink drain to one like this. <S> This way it places the DW drain before the trap (U shaped pipe). <S> If you do not place it before the trap, sewer gases will escape into the DW. <S> Also form the DW hose to loop up from the connection before it goes down into the DW. <S> That will prevent water from backing up into the DW if the sink should back up. <A> Question. <S> i broke my bushing, is there a way to remove it and replace it with a new one?
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Just cut off the end as near to the cap as you can reasonable fit a saw, and slip the hose over it.
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What to do about clogged downspouts? A picture is better than words... That's water shooting up from the connecting point during a heavy shower earlier due to the pressure. <Q> Disconnect the down spout. <S> This may require you to remove screws and/or rivets. <S> Screws are easy, just use the appropriate driver and back the screw out. <S> Rivets, however, will have to be drilled out. <S> Select a drill bit just larger than the hole in the head of the rivet, place the tip of the bit in the hole and drill. <S> You're not looking to drill straight through, you'll drill just enough so the head of the rivet comes off. <S> Inspect the drain <S> Now that you have access to the drain itself; using a flash light, inspect the opening looking for blockages. <S> If not, you'll want to snake the drain out using either a handheld or drill powered drain auger. <S> Reassemble <S> Once the drain is running freely, reattach the downspout using your preferred fastening method. <S> Warning: DO <S> NOT use chemical drain cleaners. <S> Some areas tie gutters into the storm sewer system, which may drain directly into nearby rivers and streams. <A> I would cut the PVC and install a cleanout. <S> Once reassembled, you will always have access to the tile system. <A> Short term: <S> Buy an elbow, cut the downspout and run a 15 foot gutter away from the house. <S> Long term: Get a drain specialist in to snake it out and fix the problem. <A> If you can get access to a wet/dry shop vac, you may be able to suck the gunk out.
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Clear the drain You might get lucky here and be able to clear the drain by hand, or blow the clog out using a garden hose.
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Is there an ideal height for a workbench? Is there a universal standard height that people try to go for when building workbenches? Should DIY tabletops be tailor made to the height of the user and how does the ideal height of the tabletop correlate to the person? <Q> I don't think there is specific universal height as people aren't manufactured in a specific universal height. <S> Googling for "workbench height" returns many results asking the same thing: what is the best height for a workbench. <S> This page suggests the following method: A good rule of thumb is to make the workbench table the same height as <S> the distance from the floor to your wrist when letting your arms hang down. <S> So if you stand next to your table, the height would be exactly where your hands would be touching it if you put your palms on the table. <S> The page goes on to say that you should consider the type of work you'll be doing. <S> If you're doing lots of detail work, you may want to sit (so the bench shouldn't be too low or too high to accommodate a chair). <S> If you're standing and decide to put those foam mats down to make it more comfortable, you might want to add a half inch or so. <S> The final suggestion is if you have the space for it, have more than one workbench. <A> There is a large body of information about what size furniture and tools should be. <S> The field concerning sizing furniture to individuals and populations is called Anthropometrics and information about safety and ease of use is called Ergonomics. <S> If you are building your own workbench for your own use, then you should size it to yourself unless you expect others to use it. <S> Why buy off the rack if you can get tailored for less? <S> Most furniture is optimized for the middle of the height distribution curve which is roughly 5'8". <S> I got into woodworking in the first place because I am 6'4" tall and absolutely nothing fits. <S> It's all literally 6" too short. <S> Just stand relaxed and let your hands fall down as if resting comfortably on a surface in front of you. <S> It's the position you hands will just fall or drop to if you try to rest them on an imaginary surface. <S> It gives a higher bench than the using the wrist line method above. <S> I suggest creating a mock-up first using whatever is available and easily resized. <S> I used a chair, a sturdy box and books of various thicknesses. <S> I swapped books and fiddled with the height of the mock-up until I found the most comfortable height. <S> In my case, it was exactly 39". <S> You'll know it when you find your own ideal height because it just feels right. <S> However, shuffler is correct that different work requires different heights. <S> The "fall drop" rule sizes a bench for use with modern power tools and precision hand tools <S> but if you use other tools you might want <S> a higher or lower bench e.g. heavy handsaws, chisels and planes usually require something like saw bench which is usually just under knee height. <S> I use a mini-bench on top of my main 39" surface if I have fiddling work like soldering. <S> Oh, and build yourself a custom stool and work supports at the same time. <S> You'll be glad you did. <A> There's no real answer to this - it depends on how tall you are, what you are using the bench for and if you are standing or sitting (and then, are you using a chair or stool?). <S> The use for it might also play a role. <S> Things like electrical soldering work require you to be a lot closer to the project <S> then wood working. <S> The simple solution to this is to find a bench with adjustable legs. <S> Mine is adjustable by about 16" - I started with it as high as it could go <S> (I'm 6'), but eventually brought it down a couple inches; it's still pretty high which means I don't need to bend over to work on things. <S> I find it comfortable like this, but you might hate it. <A> I am a Jack of All Trades. <S> I think it is important to think about what projects you will be working on. <S> Some benches I have are made to match up with my table <S> saw height( to provide more surface). <S> I am 5-10 and the saw height is 34 inches. <S> I feel comfortable being over my work a little bit, I feel I have more control of my tools, etc. <S> I also have a bench 18 inches tall for upholstery work, this allows me to reach the upper and lower parts of a project. <S> This bench is covered in carpet to protect my project. <S> Another reason I like a lower bench than most is to accommodate various jigs. <S> Jigs for clamping steamed wood, Joining, & gluing can easily add a few inches to your work height. <S> It all seems to be personal in nature. <S> Very important to look at all your tools and think about what you will be doing on your workbench. <S> All my benches are on locking casters, this helps in utilizing my space. <A> There are two different types of work benches: sitting and standing. <S> A sitting work bench for machine work, according to Browne & Sharpe, should be 31" high. <S> Note that height of the chair is important and should be adjusted so the worker's knees are at a right angle when the soles of the feet are flat on the floor. <S> Below is a design Brown & Sharpe made for work bench in a railroad shop (31" to table surface): <S> For a standing bench, the usual height is 40" which is the same as a standard kitchen countertop. <S> This corresponds to the height of the waist of a person about 5' 9" tall. <S> For a taller or shorter worker, the table should be adjusted by half. <S> For example, a person 6'3" would add 2" to the height and use a 42" work bench.
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I used the "fall drop" rule to size my generic workshop surfaces.
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How can I hang a large but light poster on a concrete pillar? I have a large (est. 5'x7') sheet of plastic foam with a poster printed on it. It weighs maybe 3 lb and is reasonably stiff. I'd like to hang it on a solid rectangular concrete pillar about 2' wide. The pillar is rough but flat and is covered with paint. Everything is indoors, in a large office building. I'd avoid drilling concrete for such a light load. One way would be using large amounts of 2-sided adhesive tape: 5'x2' contact area seems enough. Will such attachment last? What are other options? Actual solution I used 10 Velcro-based adhesive 3M stripes (2 packs of 5 stripes, ~$10 total) which stuck to the concrete quite well, and made mounting/adjusting the poster rather easy. Multiple points of contact hopefully provide some redundancy for the case of any one strip unsticking. <Q> Tape and concrete don't really mix that well. <S> It might initially hold, but it will eventually let go. <S> The best solution is to drill a hole and use a light concrete anchor or concrete nail. <S> Alternatively, you can use a special metal band that wraps the pole and has an attachment on it <S> (sorry, I don't know the exact name of these) - they are often use for street signs like in the below image. <S> Image Source: http://isostainless.com <A> Wrap it around the pillar twice and tie in a knot. <S> If the pillar is rough the surface should keep it from sliding downThen hang the poster to the ribbon with ahook. <S> If you dont mind a more industrial look you could try a canvas cargo strap with a spring loaded buckle available at camping or outdoor stores. <S> Let the bottom rest on the floor so the strap is only holding it to the pillar not supporting any weight. <S> You can then screw the poster to the board. <S> May be paint the exposed board for better appearance. <A> Google 3M Command products. <S> We have successfully used these to hold items to brick, so I imagine that they would work with concrete - especially if the concrete is sealed or painted.
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You could also try tying a 1x2 inch board to the pillar. Depending on how artistic you want it to appear you might try some wide ribbon available at sewing supply store.
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Can I sense filter replacement need based on filter pressure drop? I should first point out that the system I'm referring to will be a self build DIY project. Fan and Filters being the only items purchased complete, And I'm still in the design phase but I'm not a HVAC expert at all. USA has forced air more commonly than here in the UK so I'm hoping you can help me out. This is a room air filter, It will go under the stairs where I can hopefully sound proof it. 2 or 3 stage filter setup depending on pressure drop to clean the air for a 45m3 room, intending to get 4 air changes per hour. Fan I have selected thus far is an ERK 250 which will blow into the filters. Each filter has an initial Pa drop of lets say 50Pa new with a replacement final pressure drop of say 200Pa. My intention is to design a circuit that will have a differential pressure sensor to measure the pressure before and after the filter to calculate the pressure drop caused by that one filter thereby allowing me to calibrate it to indicate when said filter should be changed. The same for the other filters that follow. Will the first filter effect the reading for the 2nd filter? I can't think of a reason why it would but then air flow dynamics is a black art to me. Will it work? Are there any commercial filter change sensors out there and how do they work? <Q> Since the purpose of replacing filters in the first place is to restore airflow which has been diminished by reduced filter porosity, it would be a better approach to use a differential sensor to monitor airflow, rather than a differential across the filter(s) <S> In a ‘passive’ system with no blower control, the filters are simply replaced when the flow has reached some minimum acceptable level. <S> In an active system, energy to the blower is regulated in a control loop. <S> The desired operating volumetric flow is first established, and this forms the reference for two control set points for the loop. <S> When the flow reaches the lower set point energy to the motor is increased to restore specified airflow, and decreased when the upper set point is reached. <S> Filter replacement is indicated when the blower can no longer sustain the required flow. <S> An example of how a differential sensor is applied in deriving volumetric flow can be found here: <S> http://www.bapihvac.com/CatalogPDFs/I_App_Notes/Determining_Air_Flow_CFM.pdf <S> I have just completed a design applying this principal in extending the service life of HEPA filters in a forensic laboratory environment. <S> I also used the Freescale MPX2010DP, coupled to a PIC16F818, which has just enough pins to drive the 4 seven segment display digits, scan three buttons (START/STOP, and set point UP, and set point DOWN) and implement PWM control on the motor. <S> The sensor requires to feed into an instrumentation amplifier (fabricated from the ubiquitous LM324) as the full scale voltage output differential is only 0.4V, and the ADC on the microprocessor requires an order of magnitude greater than this to realise adequate resolution. <S> The two air duct probes, one for total pressure and one for static pressure, which connect to the pressure and vacuum sides of the sensor respectively could easily be fabricated DIY from thin copper, aluminium or other soft metal tubing, or they may be purchased online for very little. <S> The cost of materials for this type of project would be trivial, the question is whether one would enjoy and derive satisfaction from the substantial effort it will require. <A> You can use a pressure differential sensor like this one. <S> Perhaps install a vacuum guage between each filter stage to measure the restriction of each filter. <S> If you need to adjust the diferential and your skill level permits, you can build a circuit around this sensor. <S> I figure a differential amplifier with a relay driver to a spst relay giving dry contacts for an output. <S> You could use two circuits, one between filter stages, the other on the output to determine filter condition. <S> I see from your profile you are a programmer. <S> It would be a trivial task to program a microprocessor to do this task. <S> Maybe an Arduino platform. <S> It has several ADC's, and if you need an output control you can add a relay driver shield. <S> If you go Netduino you can network the whole thing. <S> By using a µp you can change the program as you go, set warning levels, etc... <S> See these Other sensors <A> You are quite correct to note that pressure drop across an element within a dynamic fluid system is related to volumetric flow…this has certain implications. <S> To return to your original question, “Can I sense filter replacement need based on pressure drop?” <S> the short answer is, not really. <S> This is for the reason you state, that such a differential pressure value is dependent upon the volumetric flow, and if the flow is indeterminate or unknown, the value of the pressure differential does not reveal anything quantitatively as to the state of the filter element. <S> The volumetric ‘nameplate’ capacity of the fan or blower purchased cannot be assumed to prevail within the target system, as the impeller speed and volumetric flow will depend upon many variables, not least those of the filters employed. <S> In commercial and industrial scale systems incorporating multiple elements, pressure differential measurements prevailing across individual elements may be monitored in addition to volumetric flow, which is controlled at specified process levels, as well motor energy required to sustain process levels, and these parameters and other cost factors integrated in calculations to arrive at maintenance schedules yielding least cost operation. <S> In a domestic DIY situation, the first and second filters could be changed alternately to determine which one, or whether both require replacement to restore desired system performance. <S> ‘Filter capacity’ has been reached when the filter(s) in whatever combination do no longer yield the desired performance (basically CFM/min) which can be quantitatively determined. <S> I hope this explanation will be of assistance. <A> You need to use an optical "Filterpulse.com" sensor which operates independent of blower speed. <S> Filterpulse directs an infrared beam through the filter and monitors the amount of light that passes through the filter; the sensor initially calibrates with a clean filter and tracks filter degradation until a "trip point" is reached. <S> Trip point is adjustable, either locally or via wifi.
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By way of example, a brand new filter element could indicate need of replacement if the fan speed were increased, resulting in a pressure differential increase to whatever level deemed to constitute the service limit of the filter.
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How can I stop mice from chewing garage door bottom weather strip? I noticed that there was a 1" gap between the edge of either side of the bottom rubber weather strip on the garage door and the door frame. Now I see that it is 3-4", and likely being chewed by mice. I don't have a serious mouse problem because they don't hang around in the garage or come into the house, but would still like to keep them from eating the weather strip. Is there a solution to keep mice from eating the bottom rubber weather strip? <Q> When you have to fill the gap, use stainless steel or copper wool (not kitchen pad with soap though) and optionally foam the gap closed. <S> The metal stops the mice from eating through the foam. <A> Actually, mice seem to like rubber, certainly insulation, especially since many of these compounds are now made from renewable sources for oil. <S> I'd not be surprised if you do have mice getting in, and just not know if it. <S> Or it might be chipmunks doing the chewing. <S> We get them in our garage too. <S> What can you do? <S> I place traps where they will run. <S> Put one near the corners of the door on the floor. <S> Put a few on the rafters in the garage. <S> I'll bet you catch a mouse or two. <S> PLEASE don't put down poison. <S> I recently spent a few anxious hours and then days afterwards when our dog got into rat poison that a neighbor put down. <A> Interesting question Mike. <S> Last I knew rubber and plastic weren't on the Chez Mouse Menu. <S> I would think that there may be some attractant stored in your garage that may be attracting them. <S> Things like dry pet foods, nesting materials or pet water bowls can attract the little dears. <S> Take a good look around your area for concentration of droppings. <S> This may give you a hint what they are looking for or nesting in. <S> Short of baiting them with a rodent poison or traps, try to remove the attractants and hide outs so they will visit the neighbor's house instead of yours! <A> I had the same problem of mice eating door bottom seals. <S> now when I insall new door bottom seals I put bearing grease on the inside of the bottom seal. <S> thisidea was given to me by my overhead door suplier and seams to work ThanksCasey <A> Setup some traps. <S> Peanut butter and cereal grains make good bait. <S> Or you could put a glue strip near your garage strip. <S> Another option is to set up a video camera and see what you are dealing with first and then decide how to deal with it. <S> I believe there are also humane traps if you prefer catch and release. <S> If you don't want to kill them, try some fox urine on your door. <S> A fox is a natural predator for mice. <S> I believe amonia works as well. <A> Pile garage weatherstripping - the brush style type <A> I have used electronic plug-ins that emit ultra high frequency sounds (inaudible to the human ear) designed especially for mice. <S> the frequency sound distresses them <S> so they keep away. <S> This has been successful. <S> Pity I didn't use them before they ruined the rubber seal for my MG hard-top that was stored in the garage!Peter D. <A> Rats look for cover, water and food. <S> You want to use repellant. <S> I buy stuff <S> I think is called cab away? <S> It comes in a box with four packets and they are scented. <S> Rats and mice don't like the smell and avoid the space altogether and they smell pretty good for humans. <S> I use them in my rv, house, and garage. <S> They work great but are a bit expensive, like 15$ a box <S> but well worth the purchase. <S> I buy it at tractor supply <S> but it's probably at other places too. <A> Get a cat. <S> :) <S> But only if you're willing to be a responsible pet owner.
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Putting down traps and poison just lure them in.
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How do I remove THIN layer of carpet glue from concrete? The folks who owned this house before us were the cheapest people around. They glued carpet to our concrete floor with a very thin layer of glue. Now, I'm having a terrible time scraping it off. I tried using some adhesive remover we got from Lowe's, but it doesn't really seem to be having any effect other than making it wet :( My local hardware stores include: Locke & Lowe's. There's also a local store that rents tools, but I'm not sure the extent of their selection, I was able to rent an auger there once for digging fence poles, just as an example. Any suggestions on solvents? Tools? <Q> We ended up using Krud Kutter Adhesive Remover, several pots of boiling water combined with a sturdy long handled floor scraper (& elbo grease) followed by a large orbital sander with 60 grit sanding screens. <S> This still didn't get all of the adhesive off :( <S> but we have enough off <S> and it's smooth enough for us to paint the floor, based on what I've been told & read online. <S> Hopefully, this will be helpful for someone else later on :) <A> Floor Grinder <S> Concrete <S> Sander <S> You can probably rent one or both of these, depending on the amount of glue. <S> Like I said, these are for professionally prepare floors for concrete finishing. <S> If it is thin you might try belt sander or palm sander, and buy a sampling of sand papers and see which works best. <S> Belt <S> Sander <S> Palm Sander <A> If the glue is still a bit tacky then first get a bag of flour and throw handfuls of it on the floor, sweep it around on the whole floor. <S> Here is a picture of the scraper from Lowes. <S> It takes awhile, but its really the easiest and cheapest method. <S> You will spend a small fortune on sanding pads and tool rentals. <S> You might be tempted to get the 8-inch floor scraper with the long handle. <S> Don't, they are more work than they are worth for this particular job. <S> Stick with the 4-inch scraper with around an 18-inch handle length, and don't try to scrape the full 4-inch width do about 2-inch sections at a time. <S> Should come up with relative ease. <S> The problem with sanding pads and grinders is that the glue gums them up too quickly and they become useless.
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If it's just spotty you can probably use the hand sander. Tool rental places probably rent concrete grinders for big jobs like refinishing concrete floors and then you can use a sander that get get into corners. That will make it much less messy to get up. Then get a 4-inch floor scraper with plenty of blades and go to town. Although I would try to find one with a little longer handle.
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What could be causing GFCI breakers and receptacles to trip? I have a two wire system and after installing GFCI outlet in kitchen I realized there is a problem with some type of inconsistancy causing the GFCI to trip as soon as power is sent to it. Thinking the problem was in an older GFCI outlet I attemped to reuse I purchased and installed a GFCI breaker. Same problem. I'm thinking there is possibly a shared ground in the wiring as the kitchen, dining room and basement lights are all on this breaker. In previous testing while installing a new light I noticed some low voltage current coming through even when the switch was off. Is it possible to get a GFCI to work under these circumstances? There is one outlet downstream from the GFIC outlet. I installed a new conventional outlet in place of the GFCI after installing the GFCI breaker. Everything appeared to work fine with a 20 amp breaker and no GFCI outlet installed. <Q> Sounds like the circuit is sharing a neutral with another circuit. <S> Reset the GFCI breaker, which should now hold. <S> If it does not hold, then you have a problem with the wiring on that circuit and need to open each box to investigate. <S> If the GFCI breaker does hold, turn each breaker on one at a time until you find the circuit that trips the GFCI. <S> This is the circuit with a shared neutral. <S> You then need to open switch boxes, light boxes, on both circuits to figure where the neutrals were wrongly tied together. <S> Suspect anything that looks like a homeowner addition, or fix. <S> A common place this might happen would be in a switch box that controls different lights, with two or more circuits feeding the box. <S> An unknowing DIY-er may have tied all the neutrals together. <A> I had mystery GFCI trippage in my house (even with nothing plugged into the GFCI outlet or any outlet it protects). <S> It turned out to be the connection in the Power Mains Breaker Panel. <S> If you can safely turn off your power, make sure all connections (including ground) are tight. <A> I had this issue as well. <S> It turned out that someone tied the neutral from a separate circuit into the the GFCI protected lighting circuit. <S> They needed a 3 wire to make the light switch work properly. <S> Not having a three wire, they used the neutral wire as the hot from the switch. <S> Not having a neutral anymore they ran a short wire from the closest light to provide a neutral return, being fed from a different breaker. <S> It took 3 hours of troubleshooting to figure this one out.
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With your GFCI breaker installed, turn off all other breakers.
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How can I add a closet to an existing room? So I am looking to add a closet to an existing room. I want this to be a built-in because where I live real estate listings do not count a bedroom with a free standing closet. However I can't ever recall seeing someone's house with this and I can't help but think it will look terrible. Is it possible to have a closet that builds out into the room, but still looks nice? I was thinking of placing it where the 19" short wall is and covering up an existing door. <Q> So based on advice from ratchetfreak in comments I took his advice and went with the 'corridor' effect on the 37" wall (pic below). <S> As the room has two doors it gave me an interesting perspective on what the 'walking into the room' vibe was. <S> For door #1 (the bottom door in pic) <S> I felt like the closet made the room feel smaller on entrance. <S> For door #2 (left wall) <S> I was really surprised that walking into the room didn't feel like the closet was overbearing. <S> Also, that a corridor effect makes a room feel smaller on entrance. <S> I prefer option one, although we ended up going with option two because it really was the only place the closet would fit. <A> Take a look at the Ikea closets. <S> They are pretty functional and are designed to look built in. <S> Also I don't think there's any actual law requiring a closet in the bedroom. <S> So you can call any room a bedroom as long as it has appropriate egress, door and your septic tank is big enough. <A> In North Carolina, we were able to get the price of a house reduced about $10k because the listing said 4 bedrooms but <S> one room had no built in closet, so it had to be sold as a 3 bedroom with a finished bonus room.
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So my end analysis is that a closet jutting into the room across from a doorway is fine.
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Options for fixing outside cement staircase? We have a below-grade basement and a exit door. There are concrete steps to the door, parallel to the house (so on your right is the house) and on the left is a brick wall. The steps appear to have been poured as one unit. However, over time it appears the whole assembly has shifted, both to the left, and then the top has sunk down. The effect of this is that water pools in some of the steps (away from the house). As part of a landscaping project, we were able to put in a little drain on the top most step, but it is not optimal (and also doesn't do anything for the other steps). Here's a picture of the area: Seeing as how a similar condition persists on almost every step, what are the options for fixing this? This area does not get a lot of sun either, so it doesn't dry naturally very well. <Q> Here are some options: Keep a broom nearby and sweep away excess water. <S> While this does not actualy fix anything, it will eliminate the excess water. <S> Create a drain. <S> Drill a hole at the lowest spot of each step for the water to escape to. <S> This solution is not optimal and may only alleviate the problem. <S> One will need a masonry bit and hammer drill to get through the step. <S> Also consider the effects of having water being drained under the step, which also may not be optimal. <S> Level the steps. <S> However, getting a consistent and durable finish across all the steps will be a challenge. <S> Refinish the steps. <S> Add a new finish on top of the concrete and in the process <S> eliminate the low spots so the water does not pool on each step. <S> As a plus the drab lichen colored gray would be updated. <S> Rip out the entire thing and replace/redo with a better step/drainage solution. <S> I'd probably go with step 4 <S> provided the settling has stopped. <S> If the foundation is no good or drainage is not adequate, then option 5 would probably be the best. <A> What you may want to do is consider modifying the bottom of the stairs. <S> Depending on your soil composition and other factors, it might be worth excavating about 1 foot deep under the bottom-most landing: you would fill the space with sand, to take the water up, and then you could put a metal grate over it to walk on. <S> Poured concrete footers on the sides could support the grate, for example. <S> Depending on your application, you might also want to use paving stones or something of that nature instead; Lastly, you'll want to make sure to bury cloth under the surface of the sand to interfere with plant growth, and the change will mean that plant growth will have to be curbed manually, from time to time. <S> Other options include applying a French drain, which is much like the sand solution I describe above, but employs larger rocks, and likely more excavation. <S> The key thing to remember is that you will want to make a point of drawing water away from the foundation of the structure. <A> If the entire structure has shifted then you should be able to lift it back up. <S> There are companies out there who specialize in this; often you see it done on sidewalks. <S> The process is pretty simple - they drill a hole in the concrete and pump a concrete slurly underneeth at high pressure to bring the low side back up to level. <S> After then are done, the fill the hole with concrete. <S> I don't think this is a DIY job <S> but I also don't think its overly expensive to have done.
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There are some low spots, so another layer of concrete on top should allow the water to escape to a drain below the steps.
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Which way should a door between the garage and basement swing? Looked everywhere for proper answer. We have a 2 car garage attached to the basement. This house is old, built in 1968, we purchased this 2 years ago and were renovating here/there. We just finished got the wall replaced (fire-rated) also vents removed, electricals/plumbing rerouted/fixed. Now all we got left is the door. All over the place says one thing and another, we're not sure who is right based on building code in the USA (Kansas to be specific). From the garage walking into the basement, should the door swing in or out? opening INTO the basement or opening INTO the garage? We know about which kind of door we need, but not sure of the inswing or outswing. <Q> Check local codes <S> -- you may not get a choice in the matter. <S> Check the door to see if the fire rating requires it to be mounted one way or the other. <S> Otherwise, look at convenience. <S> Will the door open completely with the car in the garage or your workbench in place? <A> 99.9% of the time, an entry door from a garage into the house swings in towards the house like any other entry door. <S> Not only does it secure the hinge pins indoors, but allows installation of a screen or storm door on the garage side. <S> Often a door opening into a garage would interfere with a car entering or a car door opening if left open. <S> Funny fact: since most people are programmed by years of opening a door towards the interior, it would be hysterical to see folks pulling or pushing the wrong way. <A> The biggest reason for me a garage door should open INTO the home... <S> full arms make it easier to open the door when the door PUSHES rather than PULLS. <S> If your hands are full of grocery bags and you are trying to pull the door toward you to open it, it is much more awkward than just pushing on the door once the handle latch is released (also for this reason, we replaced our door handle to be a lever, rather than a "ball" type). <A> One thing to consider is whether there are any steps involved. <S> A door cannot open over steps. <S> If you absolutely need to have it open into a stairwell, then you need to build a proper landing, big enough for a person, and the door to open. <S> Next, prefer to have the door open inward, so that the hinges are inside. <S> However, the main point of security should be the garage doors to the exterior. <S> I really don't care how secure your internal door is, <S> because once I've determined you're not home, I've got all day to work on it from inside the garage, shielded from the neighbours' view. <S> You want to make me do the tough work where I'm exposed. <A> The door between your house and an attached Garage is considered an exit door from the home, and should swing into the house and not the Garage. <S> The door should be a Steel Insulated door and the frame should be sealed as well to prevent carbon monoxide fumes from getting into your home. <S> Also if there is a fire in the Garage, you will have more time to find another exit. <S> Steel doors are better heat conductors than wood or fiberglass, and you can touch the door with your outer hand, and if it is burning hot, you don't want to open the door, or you will be swallowed by flames from the oxygen feeding it from inside the house. <S> Most fire inspectors will require a steel door in this spot, and all exit doors should swing into the home. <S> Some states prone to Hurricanes are recommending Exit doors to swing outward because the doors can withstand more wind forces being installed that way. <S> Only one or two states enacted that <S> and I believe Florida is one of them. <S> Other states, it is your preference as to the direction. <S> Use common sense of the environment where your home resides.
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From a security standpoint, having it swing into the basement would be more secure as the hinges will be inside. To validate anything do a home tour of a newly built home, which must meet today's local codes.
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Can I use alcohol for cleaning tables? For some reason, an unpleasant scent wafted into my room on Sunday, and coincidentally, it was a rainy day that day. As a result, the scent is now stuck to my table, and anything that I put on the wooden table 'carries'/gains the same unpleasant scent. I've tried using water and rubbed it on the wooden table to no avail. Can I use alcohol (From alcohol hand rub) for getting rid of this smell on the table? Is it safe to do this, and should I just let the alcohol dry or should I wipe it with water immediately and dry it with paper towels? <Q> I presume you mean rubbing alcohol <S> AKA Isopropyl Alcohol should be fine. <S> Also consider Hydrogen Peroxide - H2O2 the extra oxygen molecule wants to break off to stabilise and leave H2O (water) behind. <S> That stray oxygen will attack organic matter, the stuff likely causing the smell by oxidizing it. <S> When applied it will fiz and bubble, this is normal. <S> It should remove any discolouration or stain caused by the mould too if present. <A> I have ten years of insurance restoration experience and this is, by far, one of the hardest questions to answer directly. <S> It is really a trial and error answer. <S> Always start with a small amount of whatever you choose in an inconspicuous place to be sure it doesn't stain the table. <S> To be perfectly honest, when the industrial strength stuff was too much, I would use a ton of 409 and it worked just fine. <A> Be sure to check it in an inconspicuous area first...
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alcohol can remove some (rather uncommon) finishes. Delicate wood could be bleached a bit though so I'd test under the table 1st. We typically used an industrial grade cleaner for smoke damages but this may be a little overboard for your purposes.
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How can I tell if these pipes are gas lines or water lines? I recently moved into an in-law unit of a large old house. In the kitchen, there are two pipes coming out of the wall (one protruding out a little more than the other). I had assumed they were gas lines to connect my stove. But since the stove only connects to one pipe, I'm now wondering if they're actually water lines. Can anyone explain how I can tell the difference? On the other side of the wall is a large closet with the air conditioning system, water heater, and what I think is the gas shutoff valve. <Q> Gas <S> All connections will be threaded. <S> Water Water lines come in a variety of materials, some of the most common are. <S> Copper <S> This will be um... copper, in color. <S> While there are other ways to join copper pipes, the most common is solder. <S> Galvanized <S> Galvanized pipes will be a light grey. <S> And use threaded connections similar to black pipe. <S> Plastics <S> You might also find various types of plastic-ish water pipes. <S> These can come in a variety of colors. <S> Red, blue, white, black, etc. <S> These may use compression type connections, crimp connections, or various other type or connectors. <S> Still can't decide? <S> Try using your other senses. <S> Touch the pipe. <S> If it's warm to the touch, it's likely hot water (may not be warm unless hot water was recently used). <S> Hold the pipe and have a helper turn a nearby tap on/off quickly, to see if you can feel vibrations. <S> Try running the water for a bit, then touch the pipe to see if the temperature changes. <S> If the pipe gets colder/hotter, it's likely a water line. <S> Listen to the pipe. <S> Put your ear to the pipe, and again have a helper turn on a nearby tap. <S> If you hear the water clearly in the pipe, you found yourself a water line. <S> (make sure the pipe is not in contact with any other pipes when you do this, since sound could be transferred to the other pipe). <S> This is not the most accurate method, but it can sometimes work. <S> Taste the pipe. <S> This won't help you at all. <S> I just pictured people licking pipes in my head, and thought it was funny. <S> You could tell your helper to do it, and then laugh at them when they do it. <S> But it's not going to help you figure out what the pipe is. <A> A gas line will usually have a shutoff valve at the end of it. <S> It's usually made of cast iron, steel, flexible steel, or copper. <S> Here are some pictures of typical stove pipe configurations. <S> If it just a metal pipe sticking out of the wall, ask the owner of the house what it is or have a plumber come out and look at it. <S> Don't assume anything. <A> On the other side of the wall is a large closet with the air conditioning system, water heater, and what I think is the gas shutoff valve. <S> What do the pipes connect to inside that closet? <S> Trace from where the pipes penetrate the wall back. <S> Do they connect to the water heater or other water pipes? <S> If they match, thats a good sign its a water pipe. <A> Method 1: I had this problem, one way is to half close the valve on one side of the pipe (this will cause a hiss when water flows through it caused by the water turbulance going through a narrow opening - try it on a known water tap first like a sink stop tap to see what i mean), turn off all the taps and wait for the toilet to finish filling up etc, turn off the boiler. <S> Feel the pipe first to see if it's warm, if it's warm, it's hot water. <S> Listen to the pipe. <S> It should be quiet. <S> Turn on the cold taps all over the house so that they are running quietly and flush the toilet. <S> If the pipe hisses, it's water flowing through it, and it's connected to the cold water. <S> If it doesn't hiss, turn off the cold taps and wait for the flush to finish filling, open up all the hot taps over the house, listen again, <S> is it hissing? <S> If so, it's a hot water pipe - cold water generally flows through the hot water pipes when the boiler is offline. <S> If it doesn't hiss ever, then there's a good chance <S> it's gas. <S> Remember to leave the stop tap in the position it started in. <S> Method 2 <S> : Turn it off and see what taps, if any, stop working. <S> Another thing to note is, if the pipe has cladding around it, like insulation material, it's to stop the pipe from freezing and / or losing energy, since gas wont freeze in normal conditions, it means that the pipe is a water pipe of some kind.
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If it's hissing when both cold water and hot water taps are on, then it could be the cold water intake for the boiler. You should be able to tell by the color, and connections used. Compare the pipes coming out of your water heater (at the top, where the water side is) to the pipes coming out of the wall. Go back and listen to the pipe. "Black pipe" is commonly used for natural gas, and is dark grey/black.
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How do I determine where lead paint was used? I just bought a new house. The inspector told me that the entry way paint is cracking because a previous owner painted over lead paint without using the proper primer. How do I find out which walls have lead paint before I move in? I plan on painting all the walls. <Q> They make lead testing kits for this purpose. <S> You should ensure that you understand the correct process and procedures for painting over lead paint and that you take the proper safety precautions. <S> The EPA has a website with lots of information on this. <A> Steven has given you the right info to test for lead. <S> He should have used a test swab for verifiable results. <S> Assuming there is lead paint simply because over coated paint is cracking is making an irresponsible assumption. <S> Any time a competent inspector is looking at a house built prior to 1978, he should random test, or offer to test for lead. <S> Cracking paint can be caused by many situations. <S> A few could be, cheap paint, paint applied over a very glossy paint that was not properly prepped, or even paint applied when temps were very hot and humidity very low causing paint to dry too fast. <S> The primary reason could well be that the surface was not primed well, but that in itself is not a positive sign of lead paint underneath. <S> When you use the lead kit, be sure to follow the directions exactly. <S> Use a utility knife to make a small "V" cut into the paint in an obscure area, being sure to expose a cross section of all layers of paint to the bare wood. <S> The swabs are extremely sensitive and will pick up on very minute amounts of lead and give a red swap indication. <S> Do read some articles so you feel confident to use the lead tests properly. <S> Simple testing is easy, but more extensive lead testing should be left to a pro. <S> Good Luck <A> The gold standard for lead testing uses an XRF gun (X-ray Fluorescence Analyzer). <S> it's far more accurate than the test kits, which often test positive even when lead is not present. <S> As a certified EPA renovator for pre-1978 buildings I strongly recommend a whole house professional XRF test: you'll identify many areas with no lead at all. <S> Even if there is lead, if the underlying paint is intact, the best thing in most cases is to add another layer.
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As a certified home inspector and licensed EPA Lead renovator, I question the method your inspector used to determine that there was lead paint present.
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How do I determine if I need attic insulation to keep cool in summer? How can I determine if I need more attic insulation to keep cool in summer? I live in the desert of southern California so it can get pretty hot in the summer (110+ is not uncommon). I would like to lower my electric bill but more to the point I would just like to ensure that our house is comfortable without the air conditioning going all the time. I feel if I asks a company that does insulation I know they will say we need more but I don't know who else to ask or how to determine this. The electrical company does not offer an energy usage assessment at this time (they used to). <Q> What kind of insulation do you currently have in your attic? <S> (Note: head on up there and check it out.) <S> If it's batt insulation -- large units of fiberglass -- then that information will be printed on either the paper facing or the insulation itself. <S> If it's loose fill insulation, which is far more common in attics, then you can usually figure out what the product is (pink, yellow, or white and very itchy = fiberglass, dirty grey = greenfiber, white and not very itchy = cellulose) and find it's value per inch on this handy table of R values. <S> For best performance, I'd go up to R-60. <S> In a home built by your average builder in the past decade, R-30 meets code. <S> Adding blown-in insulation, which you can do over fiberglass batts, is extremely cheap if you DIY ... <S> although it's not a pleasant job to do. <S> Rental of the machine from Home Depot or Lowe's is usually free with the purchase of a certain number of bales of insulation, and greenfiber especially is cheap. <S> To bring my 1600 sq. <S> ft. ranch up to R-60 would only cost me a couple hundred dollars in materials. <S> Do check at all ends of your attic. <S> You might find that the areas close to the attic access are R-30 to meet code, but areas farther away might have less. <S> I've known a few builders to be stingy with the insulation. <S> One home I helped a friend with here in Houston had less than four inches of insulation in most of the attic. <S> One caution point is to make sure that in the process of adding insulation that any attic ventilation that you may have at the soffits is not blocked off. <S> Soffit air is essential to the ventilation of your attic, if your home is designed that way. <S> Last but not least, consider coating your roof with a reflective coating. <S> You might need to get a contractor to do this, but it's simple and straightforward work. <S> In the Inland Empire, nothing is more effective than keeping the solar rays from heating your house in the first place. <S> Unfortunately, many find these roof coatings to be unsightly, so you might have to check with your HOA if you have one before applying anything. <A> Insulation is always good, hot or cold. <S> There are a lot of other considerations to save energy and keep cool. <S> Air leaks, unprotected windows, ventilation are also important factors. <S> Perhaps you can find an energy audit professional that is not in the business of selling you a product, rather just an honest evaluation and recommendations for your specific situation. <S> There are still some Federal energy tax credits available and perhaps some State ones in your area <A> Point it at walls and the ceiling, around doors, windows, vents, outlets, any other protrusions in the structure, the lowest floor, and corners. <S> Look for places where the measurement varies from the room temperature. <S> Note that glass tends to reflect temperature readings from somewhere else, so measure the window frame, blinds, curtains, or something else close by. <S> This exercise is also helpful for balancing HVAC systems between multiple rooms, so keep track of the readings as you go around your home. <S> If you find the ceiling beneath that attic is well above room temperature, then it's a good idea to add more insulation there. <S> But you may find your money is better spent insulating outlets and switch plates, adding weather stripping to your doors and windows, or fixing a vent's back flow preventer. <A> I would suggest looking at your area and seeing what R-value has been determined to be applicable. <S> Check your attic for gaps and other problem areas. <S> I found this "how to" article, it may be helpful - <S> I hope you can share it with your readers: http://www.prohome1.com/howtos/how-to-check-attic-insulation.html
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I would recommend installing Berger AccuVent baffles over every soffit vent before adding more insulation. As a DIY alternative to an energy audit, get a non-contact IR thermometer and walk around your home on a hot or cold day.
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Natural ways to keep the ceiling cool during summer I live in the single floor independent house in South India with the ceiling exposed to sun. In summer it gets really hot. I am not an expert but was wondering if there is a traditional/natural way of cooling the ceiling. Sometimes, inside the house, we feel like living inside the furnace. Would be glad if you have some ideas in natural cooling techniques. <Q> I assume you mean the roof is exposed to the sun...and that in turn is heating your ceiling? <S> If so <S> , options: make sure the roof is reflective (white/metallic) rather than a dark color (which absorbs heat) <S> make sure the roof is insulated If the roof can support a green/planted roof, consider that. <S> plant trees to shade the roof (obviously may take a few decades to fully work) <S> create a cold roof (some form of secondary roof to shade the one below...in many climates this would be an attic type constructions...but almost anything could work...a covered roof deck, for instance--or even just a vented second layer such as standing seam metal panels on top of spacers to allow for airflow underneath.) <S> Once the ceiling is warm, it means the heat had already entered the living space. <S> Can't really cool the ceiling at that point without getting the heat out of the living space. <S> Exhaust fans could help...along with perhaps a ceiling fan. <S> Cross ventilation with windows/vents. <S> Etc. <A> You also want to ventilate the attic space. <S> In our house it can get above 190 °F. <S> You can get gable mounted fans that suck in air from outside (at 100 °F, or what ever temperature it is outside) and force the 190 °F air out of the attic. <S> Another thing to consider: at about 7pm at night the outside air can cool down considerably, enough so that the house is now warmer than the outside. <S> Instead of opening doors and windows I installed a separate switch controlled whole-house fan. <S> It connects from the ceiling to the attic. <S> It sucks the cooler air in through the window, taking the warmer air in the house and pushing it into the attic. <S> Then the attic air gets pushed out of the attic vents. <S> So your attic gets cooler too. <S> I can get my house from 80+ °F to 70+ °F within 10 minutes this way. <A> Plan 1 I live in a desert, sometimes the hottest place in the USA, beating Death Valley. <S> Lots of people here use evaporative coolers, or what we call swamp coolers. <S> While this costs money, the 'green' part about them is that they save up to 80% when compare to air conditioners. <S> The way it would work after installation is you open a door or window and start the cooler. <S> The cooling comes with the pressure built up in your house. <S> The more windows and doors open the less pressure. <S> Too much pressure is a bad thing for your motor, so always leave a window cracked. <S> With just a motor load, no compressors <S> a lot of money can be saved compared to an A/C. <S> They come in wall mount, window mount, roof mount, portable (on rollers) or just fans with a misting system. <S> The small fans will only cool you if you are sitting right in front of it. <S> Click on this good ol' Wikipedia link for more information. <S> Plan 2 Put green landscaping around windows, like bushes or shrubs, to cool the air more when windows are open. <S> On the hot side of the house plant trees to provide shade when the trees grow tall. <S> These might not have immediate affects on your house, but will cool you more when the plants mature.
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If there is a space between the ceiling and the roof, its going to get pretty hot in there. You open a window, then turn on the fan. If you live in a humid area, then forget it because swamp coolers cool by putting a cool dampness in the air, nothing wet but on a hot dry day a properly sized cooler can cool a 2000 square foot as much as 25 degrees.
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Is it possible to convert a truss attic into living space? What are some options for converting a trussed roof into living space? My understanding (please correct me if I am wrong) is that the following needs to be taken into consideration: proper floor joists need to be installed/sistered. Knee wall supports need to sufficiently replace the webbings of the truss to support the roof space needs to be considered to accommodate proper insulation between the living space and the roof where it contacts I've seen a lot of systems/contractors that seem to specialize in this in the UK, but I can't seem to find much information for North America. Not sure why that is. Has anyone done this? Is it at all a DIY proposition (providing proper engineering documents are approved)? UPDATE: My purely hypothetical method at this point (how far off base am I?): install 12" floor joists 16" OC install kneewall between current 2x4 truss 'rafters' and new floor joists. install top cross-bracing/collar tie (not sure how much/spacing) cut joist webbing (!?) between knee wall peak, install 12" 'rafters'...these wouldn't be load bearing but act as spacers for insulation and interior ceiling. leave gap between original 2x4 rafters and sheathing for ventilation insulate remainder 10" of rafters and knee wall It seems that the above plan would basically be converting the current truss system into a box storage truss, albeit with larger floor joists. Am I in the ballpark? Again, I'd definitely be consulting with an engineer to do it right. Just trying to get an idea of what it would take. With the above, I think I'd need to pull off the first layer of sheathing on one side of the roof to bring in the joists. If I had a load-bearing wall mid-span, could one bring up half-joists into the attic directly (since these joists are purely for floor support while the original 2x4's are acting as the ties?) UPDATE 2: Some more details of this particular example: The attic space is 22' on the side parallel to the trusses (28' on the other side). It's a 12/12 roof, so that's a good 11' at the ridge, which even with new floor joists and a 5' knee wall should be plenty of room for a nice space. The trusses are double cantilever style: I also came across this in Fine Homebuilding on using welded steel as part of the rafter structure. More applicable for creating cathedral ceilings but thought it was interesting: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/framing-cathedral-ceilings-with-steel-sandwich.aspx?ac=ts&ra=fp <Q> It is definitely possible. <S> My uncle has had this done in his loft. <S> They had to reinforce the trusses with large pieces of wood, but they were single rather than double cantilever <S> so it was easier. <S> Perhaps it's worth getting some quotes from professionals or hiring an advisor, as they'll be able to give you an idea of what would be involved and the complexity of the task even if you don't use their services. <A> It can definitely be converted, but you should be asking yourself if it's worth the investment. <S> Maybe an extension or conservatory could cost in the same region, but you will have much more real space. <S> It seems that truss roofs could be quite difficult to walk around with cross members. <S> Remove all tiles, redesign, and strengthen it to maximize space. <S> But it sounds like a lot of work for a small amount of extra space. <A> Yes. <S> Very possible. <S> It has to be engineered though. <S> We have plans to do just this. <S> The drawings and engineering cost around $1000. <S> I wouldn't try it unless an engineer has looked at it, drawn a plan and signed off on it. <S> For us we are going over a 3 car garage and the roof pitch is 12-12. <S> So a lot of space there. <S> The plan is to remove the drywall ceiling in the garage and install 24" engineered joists (2x4's). <S> We lose a little head room in the garage and the space above, but not much. <S> Then once the floor system is in place it's much easier to move around. <S> 2x6 rafters installed with collar ties at about 8.5 feet, and plywood gussets with engineered nailing patterns at the peaks. <S> Then cut away the trusses. <S> Doing it for about $80 a foot, and it will add about 500 square feet.
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I think you could remove the cross members if you go to a roof designer.
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How can I remote control a switch for a pool pump? I want to be able to start and stop two pool pumps by remote control, independently. Each one works at 220V, 1 kW (i.e. around 5A, expect a current spike when starting.) Do you know an off the shelf solution for this? If not, any DIY solutions are welcome. Expect the location for the switch to be dry. The main use case is turning on the 'swim against the current' pump, from a wireless keychain remote. It would be even better if this pump would turn off automatically after, say, 30 minutes. <Q> There are many different solutions depending on how much you'd want to spend, how much DIY you want to do, and what exactly you are trying to achieve. <S> I would not try to directly switch this load: inductive loads generate voltage spikes when switching them, which can damage electronics and such that are not designed to handle it. <S> They also have high in-rush startup currents which are beyond the normal ratings. <S> On the cheapest, very DIY side, I would use a definite purpose contactor for each pump (~$20, give or take), and run some smaller (14/2) wires inside to a switch. <S> The benefit here is the wiring going inside is low-current, and so you can use a regular lightswitch, count-down timer or programmable timer. <S> Insteon is another way to go. <S> Insteon is a power-line carrier signal, which means it runs over your existing wiring. <S> They have a high-current relay module which would be used to control your pumps. <S> You can then control from any Insteon-capable controller: there are a number of keypads, light switches, timers, home automation controllers, key chain remotes, motion sensors, and PC interfaces. <S> The benefit of this is your "remote" can be anywhere ( <S> and you can even have multiple remotes). <S> For example, here is a 6-button keypad that would work: <S> You could have a timer/controller set up to run your pump at certain times of day, or have a motion sensor that runs it if someone is in the pool area, or a button to manually trigger it. <S> With a controller you can do very complex things, like have it run if someone is in the pool area for more than 30 minutes, or if it's manually triggered, and also ensure that regardless of that, it runs for at least 4 hours every day. <S> Heck you can go crazy fancy and have it run more after it rains, or after it's particularly windy (to get leaves out). <S> I've linked to smarthome.com (who is the manufacturer of Insteon) <S> but you can also buy their stuff from many other places, including Amazon.com. <S> You can also combine. <S> For example, there is a UPB dry-contact output which you could wire up to a definite purpose contactor. <A> This is a popular way of remotely controlling a dust collection vacuum in a wood workshop. <S> Sounds like what you are looking for. <A> Here's how I resolved the remote control for the pumps: <S> I used a wireless receiver <S> that controls 2 separate relays (220V AC for both the controlling and the controlled circuits) <S> + the corresponding remote control keychain . <S> They are made by a czech company, Jablotron, and cost me around 65EUR (~= 85USD) together. <S> These offer better programmability for automatic timed shutoff (1 min to 24 hrs or something like that), but a single such receiver costs about as much as the 2 relay receiver. <S> These are controlled with the same remote control as above. <S> Because neither receiver's relays are beefy enough <S> (5A for the 2 relay receiver, 8A for the socket receiver), I will use the wireless relays to command two power <S> relays (aka contactors).I found a few options running 220V AC / 12A at $10-$20 apiece. <A> The first thing that comes to mind are some heavy duty relays (rated for the voltage / current <S> you're talking about) run off of some 14/3 wiring (one hot line to control each motor). <A> Then instead of using the standard single pole switch, buy two <S> Wemo WiFi light switches. <S> When setting up these switches the Wemo app gives you the option of naming these switches along with several other options. <S> If you only want to use one pump at a time then both pumps need to be on different circuits (they should be anyway). <S> Now you can turn your pump or pumps on from anywhere. <S> It's very nice not coming home to a green pool after being away on vacation.
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Wire up both pumps as if you was wiring up two single-pole light switches. I also looked at a pair of single relay wireless receivers ready to be plugged into a wall socket. There are equivalents to Insteon in other technologies (both wireless and power-line carrier) such as Z-Wave, UPB and X10 (though X10 is very poor technology, I would recommend staying with something newer).
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How do I seal a cracked pipe using epoxy putty? So, I have a broken pipe exactly on the L join on the wall. It's a huge crack but no big gap, just a curved crack along the pipe. At first I thought of replacing the pipe, but it means that I have to take out the tiles and probably destroying the wall which must cost me a lot. I've covered the crack using Marine/Plastic Epoxy Putty and it works kind of well, except that the wall part is still blasting out water everywhere when I turn the water supply back on. I tried reapplying more epoxy on the leaking area, but it doesn't seem to stick on the ceramic tiles. So, what are my options now? <Q> That stuff is worthless for any water line that is pressurized. <S> IF the crack does not extend into the tile and wall, one way to patch it would have been a glue-over clamshell repair kit like this: <S> However, you should try to figure out why the pipe is split. <S> This is unlikely, because you generally only see it in slab floors, but if the wall is concrete and was poured around the pipe, that split could easily be from stress if the pipe wasn't wrapped with foam or rubber. <A> I would remove the tiles around the pipe. <S> Carefully prying them from the grout line. <S> They look to be standard white tiles if you need to replace any broken ones. <S> Then you can cut the pipe out and using a coupling of the same size pipe add the new pipe and fitting. <S> After the pipe is replaced rebuild the backer board and set the tile with some tile adhesive. <S> Let dry one day then re grout the tile spacing. <A> I know this is an old post but given that the part in the picture looks like schedule 80 pvc i thought i'd give some advice to those that come across this <S> page.based on the picture i'd say the pipe is 3/4" and <S> the split pipe is behind the 90 degree elbow. <S> You could make a fitting by buying a schedule 80 1-inch pipe piece, along with (2) 1-1/2-inch hose clamps, some pvc primer and some christy's pvc cement(medium set). <S> Split the pipe piece you just bought in half to make a piece that will slip over a pipe. <S> you now have two fittings. <S> now assuming the water is shut off properly.apply primer to the pipe and the fitting, then unscrew the hose clamps until they open. <S> Apply the pvc cement to both the pipe and one of the fittings, then join the fitting at the crack in the pipe and slip both hose clamps over the fitting and pipe and tighten it down.then wait until it cures. <S> If done properly, you have just fixed the leak. <S> important note: make sure to tell them you want medium set pvc cement. <S> heres two references: https://tchristy.com/product/clear-heavy-pvc-cement/ <S> https://tchristy.com/product/gray-heavy-pvc-cement/ <S> Here's an alternative if you want to ensure a good fit without the need for adjustable hose clamps. <S> https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4t8uCa7a2Oc
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Once you remove the tiles then cut out the backer board enough to get to the fitting-pipe.
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How can I make low ceilings appear taller? I am having my basement remodeled. The ceiling is about 6'6 recessed lighting has already been installed. I would like to know what I can do do make the ceiling appear taller. <Q> Generally speaking, a room with a light-colored ceiling will appear taller than a room with a dark-colored ceiling. <S> However, in a really small space painted in a darker color, painting the ceiling the same color will make the border between wall and ceiling disappear, making it more difficult to gauge the ceiling height by sight. <S> A related technique for rooms painted in "warm" tones is to tint your ceiling paint two shades lighter than your walls, but in the same basic hue. <S> This will blur the line without creating a "closed-in" feel that a darker ceiling can create. <S> Using vertical stripes on the walls will draw the eye up and down and will make the walls appear taller than they really are. <S> You can also cheat perspective a little by blurring the line between wall and ceiling. <S> Similarly but easier, painting a border the same color as the dark walls on the white ceiling will give an impression that the wall continues slightly higher than it really does before the ceiling begins. <S> One last thing; while the recessed lighting stays out of people's way, it won't illuminate the full 180* sweep from the edge on one side of the ceiling to the opposite edge; you'll get a band of shadow caused by the angle that the light is recessed into its can or tray. <S> This can bring down the perceived height of the walls. <S> Try filling the room with light from other sources, like wall sconces or table/floor lamps, to put light up along the walls filling the shadow. <A> Another tip - painting the baseboard <S> the same color as the walls can also make the room appear taller. <S> I did this in my basement and just used the same color paint with a slightly glossier sheen than the wall paint (e.g. eggshell on walls, satin on baseboard) <A> I understand that lights have been installed already, but another path is to not put up any ceiling and leave the joists exposed. <S> That will give you up to 10 extra inches of ceiling height.
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Painting a gradient between the wall color and ceiling color, that begins on the wall and ends on the ceiling, will give a somewhat forced perspective that makes the room look taller. Possibly you can paint them black for the "city coffe shop" look.
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What's the suggested standard gauge wire for a given current? I'd like to see a reference to an US or EU standard that lists in a table the suggested wire gauges for AC/DC and volts / amps. <Q> I cannot speak for the US system. <S> In Europe there is not one system <S> , It is not a continent wide electrical code. <S> Every country has its own wiring regulations and code. <S> With that said there has been large efforts to harmonize systems from country to country. <S> Also in Europe we do not use <S> the AWG (American Wire Gauge) cables are graded/categorised by there cross sectional area. <S> i.e 2.5mm or 4mm etc. <S> The following is directly from the BS7671 which is the wiring regulations code for the entire of the U.K while other European countries may be slightly different it would be very similar. <S> http://www.batt.co.uk/upload/files/table4d1abs6004bs6231bs6346_1220253954.pdf <S> I should also point out it is very hard to have just one table as there are literally 40 pages of tables. <S> Because you have to take into a large amount of factors including. <S> Conductor material, Type of sheath composition. <S> Thermal abilities of the cable and the environment it will be in. <S> The type of containment/fittings. <S> and then there are applied factors such as correction for heat and density of cables and voltage drop. <S> The lists go on and on. <A> Depends largely on the application. <S> Are you talking only house wiring? <S> What environment the wires will be in, open air, conduit, sheathed, etc. <S> Most common house wire is 14AWG used on 15A circuits, and 12AWG used on 20A circuits. <S> Depending upon application, you may need to upgrade a size or two for length of run. <A> #2THHN is good for a 100 amp service, 240 volts. <S> #2 welding cable is rated for 200 amps. <S> Wire length adds resistance to the wire <S> and so the further you go, the larger the wire (larger wire = less resistance). <S> While @Tester101 gave you a NEC table 310.16 will give you the most common, I think finding all the ratings on one page probably won't happen. <S> You will have to basically Google your application to find the correct wire and then Google for the amp chart. <A> For residential AC wiring in the US, look at this. <S> http://www.ask-the-electrician.com/electrical-wire.html <A> The applicable table is actually from NEC 240.3. <S> In short: Amps Gauge General Use---------------------------<=15A 14AWG Branch lighting/receptacle circuits 20A <S> 12AWG <S> High-demand lighting/receptacle, dedicated appliance branches <S> 30A <S> 10AWG <S> Heavy-duty 120V, light-duty 240V <S> 40A <S> 8AWG <S> Medium-duty 240V <S> 60A <S> 6AWG <S> Medium-duty 240V, <S> small sub-panel feeder 100A <S> 4AWG <S> Heavy-duty 240V, sub-panel feeder <S> 150A <S> 1AWG <S> Large sub-panel feeder, small main service <S> 200A <S> 2/0AWG <S> Standard main service <S> You can virtually always be more conservative than this, running fewer amps through thicker wire. <S> For instance it's perfectly fine to run 12/2 instead of 14/2 for a normal 15A circuit. <S> However, there are upper limits to the gauge of wire <S> a wiring device like a plug or switch will accept, so don't go TOO conservative (in almost all cases you can go one step up in wire gauge, i.e. from 14 to 12, and a device rated for the thinner gauge's amperage will take it). <S> These are the minimums that will be approved by an inspector should you do any major electrical work.
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It really depends on the type of wire, along with the application.
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How do I maintain air quality in a newly finished basement of a 1925 home with no ductwork? I just bought a house built in 1925 but it has just been professionally renovated, including finishing the basement as living space. The home has a boiler for radiator and baseboard heat. There is no duct work for ventilation nor AC. My question has to do with whether or not it would be advisable to install an air to air exchanger in the basement. <Q> On the plus side, a 1925 house tends to be fairly drafty. <S> Not an ideal thing if you live in MN, but it can be considered a benefit as it typically means you have plenty of airflow in the home. <S> The main air quality issue in your basement will likely be mildew/mold. <S> That will depend on your climate (is it humid?) and the quality and type of finishing that was done in the basement. <S> If it is a humid region, definitely invest in a quality dehumidifier. <S> If you already have central air, and it can handle the extra space, definitely add the basement space to the HVAC system to help circulate. <S> Having heat in the basement is good too, as the warmer air will eventually rise through the house pulling in newer air into the basement space. <S> Other things you can do would be to install ceiling fans... <S> a relatively cheap way to help increase air circulation. <S> And as others have stated, definitely get a Radon test. <A> The first thing I can recommend is doing an air quality test on the space you are concerned about. <S> Tests range from simple DIY kits to having a professional come out and measure the quality of the air and possible contaminates. <S> Once the test results are in, then you will know what (if any <S> ) steps need to be done to improve the air quality. <S> In general, air quality is dependent on pollution, the circulation of the air, and the cleanliness of the air. <S> Air pollution can be reduced by eliminating sources of pollution or if they cannot be eliminated reduce the amount of pollution emission. <S> For example, turning your heating system or other high emission devices can improve air quality. <S> The circulation of air is also important. <S> This is usually accomplished by bringing in air from the outdoors. <S> If you have windows in your space, make sure they can be opened as an open window brings in fresh air. <S> Fans or other types of air movement devices also promote ventilation. <S> Adding ventilation systems can also promote air quality but this can be costly. <S> Finally, there is the cleaninless of the air. <S> Ther are several types of air cleaners out there, ranging from inexpensive to hospital type systems. <S> The effectiveness of air cleaners are gauged by how much air it is moving through the system and the amount of contaminates it can collect. <S> Obviously a cleaner that moves a lot of air through and collects very little contaminates would not be that effective. <S> Keep in mind air cleaner products do not remove Radon or other gas pollutants. <S> So, to answer your question about air quality: Test (Determine Air Quality) Reduce or Remove Pollution From Household Emissions Have Adequate Ventilation <S> If necessary, Clean Air With An Air Cleaner <A> I think the answer to this question is going to depend in large part on your personal opinion/experience, and how well the renovators chose their materials. <S> You should probably mount (at least temporarily) a humidity sensor in the basement, to support your personal observations. <S> Based on this information, you could elect to install either a whole-house air circulation/filtration system, or one just for the basement. <S> This would essentially draw in outside air and vent stale inside air.
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Adequate ventilation is required for good air quality. Also, since this is a basement, other tests such as testing for Radon as @mikes mentions would be adviseable as well.
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Is it legal to connect a combi expansion pipe to a drainpipe? Is it legal to install a combi boiler in a cupboard in a bedroom and connect the expansion pipe to a cast iron drainpipe? The person who has done it ownes one of the four flats in our house. Recently during heavy rainfall a back-up occurred and water from the drainpipe entered his boiler. The boiler burst and water entered both his flat and the one below his.Who is liable for the burst boiler and water damage? He has now disconnected his expansion pipe and an ugly pipe projects from the house wall. I am afraid it may be dangers in the event of boiling water projecting onto a nearby path. Is it possible to have it inspected and if so by whom? I would be very grateful for any advice. <Q> Second might be to contact the local code inspector to check the installation. <S> Sounds <S> like you got several problems that need to be addressed separately. <S> Not sure how things work there. <S> In the USA things may be different. <A> The laws re installing boilers in cupboards and bedrooms have changed over the last few years. <S> If you go on the gas safe website, which was corgi they will explain the current legal requirements. <S> However, they cannot be enforced retrospectively. <S> A cupboard in the bedroom however was probably always going bto be a no go, at least over the last 20 years or so. <S> Re installing the expansion pipe into a drain pipe is definitel a no go. <S> there are corrosive chemicals in the water that comes out of the boiler and therefore this must go directly into a drain. <A> I'm not a lawyer, but a common person would expect the property owner is directly responsible for damages to adjacent property caused by equipment failure installed on his property. <S> Secondary claims to manufacturers or other third parties is at the discretion of the owner and not pertinent to primary claims against the owner. <S> In other words, sue the owner. <S> Ownership documents may extend or alter common legal expectations. <S> Relief pipes must lead outside of the building, their outlets no more than 2' above grade, no less than 6" above grade, and be directed downwards. <S> There is no requirement for the pipe to be attractive. <S> Even if it were permissible to drain into a DWV system, it would have been required to be via an air gap and receptor which would have prevented drainage water from entering the boiler. <S> They are not all seeing and need to be notified of work being done to property to ensure compliance. <S> While they would like to hear about non-complying work, their ability to respond to specific complaints may be limited by time and budget constraints. <S> In other words, do complain, but don't expect a response. <S> It's not possible to have a third party inspect property without the owner's consent. <S> Only government agencies could possibly have this right. <S> In this particular situation, unless precluded by ownership documents, the owner suffering damage from the unit above should be compensated by unit above owner. <S> Legal action may be required to achieve this. <S> Relief pipe should be extended close to grade and be directed downwards. <S> Complain to your local building department if you think it'll help. <S> Unless you know the details of the combustion air provision, you may have to let the installation in a sleeping room pass. <S> All of this is USA oriented, but something similar would be expected nearly anywhere.
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Fuel burning appliances must not be installed in sleeping rooms, with the exception of direct vent appliances which draw combustion air from outside. First step would be to contact a lawyer about the damages the boiler caused in your property. The local building authority would be mandated by law to ensure buildings and related equipment be installed in conformance with governing codes. If the owner wants to sue the manufacturer or plumber, that's his business, not yours.
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Is radiant heat in a concrete floor unpleasant in a super-insulated house? While reading about superinsulation, I came across the idea that a radiant concrete floor is a poor choice if you have really good insulation. The reasoning goes like this: In a regular house you heat through walls, ceiling, windows, etc., so the floor is kept warm enough to keep bringing in more heat. This is one of the selling points of radiant floors: that warm floors feel good. In a super-insulated house, if the thermostat is set for a comfortable air temperature, the radiant floor will rarely turn on, so the floor will always be cool. Walking barefoot on a cool concrete floor is unpleasant. On the other hand, if you turn up the thermostat to warm up the floor, then the air temperature will be too high. Is this correct? (I suspect this means that if you're going to super-insulate, especially in a mild climate, you should choose a floor material with low thermal mass and low heat conductivity, like wood or carpet.) <Q> I suspect that if it is cold enough to require any heat, even if the furnace only runs a few times a day, that the slab would stay comfortable. <S> If your climate is such that you will go extended times without the furnace, you may be correct that it will feel cool. <S> Also, if you have south-facing windows, you may be able to get some passive solar gain using the slab. <S> We have an upstairs bathroom with a dark stone floor that gets afternoon sun (from a window that goes down to floor level) in the winter and the floor can be noticeably warm for a while after sunset. <A> You are mostly correct. <S> The floor concrete won't necessarily be cool; in a super-insulated house, it will likely be the same temperature as the air. <S> However, this may feel cool to your feet since it is lower than body temperature. <S> I have heard that radiant floor heating is not a good choice for super-insulated houses because of this reason. <A> Your floor is a massive heat-sink, it will naturally cause a convection current in the room, gradually cooling more of the air in the room. <S> In order to prevent your room from heating up too much, you have a few options: proper (lower) placement of the thermostat installation of a dual thermostat (one that can measure both floor and air temperatures, and control your radiant heat system to maintain your comfort levels) open a window to let heated air to escape. <S> wear slippers to insulate your feet from the floor. <S> install area rugs to insulate your feet from the floor. <S> (not trying to be funny on the last 3, I think they are all valid options).
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Installing radiant heat in the floor will help to cancel out the cooling affects of your floor.
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Does it make sense to try mounting the jigsaw onto the table? I'm trying to get my shop completed for hobbyist woodworking. I own a jigsaw that's very useful, but I'd like to be able to attach it to a table-like surface (still don't got a pro-table, I'm using a few boards of hardwood glued together). What I'm hoping for is to make it easier to cut long straight lines - I can do this by hand, driving the jigsaw with a straight template, but having it attached to a table would help greatly. I know I should get a real table saw at some point, just asking for a solution for now... <Q> If it's a hand tool not designed to be mounted in that manner, I would advise against doing this as it has the potential to be dangerous. <S> Think about what would happen if the tool were to become dislodged or the blade break off. <S> In the event of an emergency, how would you quickly shut it off? <S> Saws like table saws and band saws should have an easily accessible shutoff button. <A> Could you do it... <S> Yes. <S> There are a few problems with this setup. <S> First, if the saw does not have a locking trigger how will you turn it on when you are cutting? <S> If it does have a locking trigger, you'll want a way to turn the tool on/off quickly and easily. <S> This could be achieved by connecting the saw to a power strip, and mounting the strip in an easily accessible area. <S> You'd then use the switch on the power strip to turn the saw on/off. <S> Will mounting the saw make changing the blade difficult/impossible? <S> Lastly, why are you using a jigsaw for long straight cuts? <S> Long straight cuts are far easier with a table/circular saw. <S> The great thing about a jigsaw, is that the blade can bend and flex slightly. <S> This makes cutting contours easier, but will make long straight cuts more difficult. <A> Using a jigsaw in a table setup is no more dangerous than using it handheld if the mounting is secure - the blade is not guarded when a jigsaw is used handheld either! <S> If you really wanted a guard you could build one into a table mounted jigsaw. <S> Several manufacturers even make table insert plates for their jigsaws similar to router mounting plates. <S> I see no problem in making your own. <S> When using a jigsaw in a table setup you should follow all the normal safety precautions (e.g. wear safety glasses), and as others have mentioned you should use a foot switch or some other easily accessible switch. <S> Now, just because you can do it doesn't mean it's a good solution. <S> A small, inexpensive bandsaw will outperform a jigsaw for cutting curves (and probably straight lines too), and a circular saw will definitely outperform a jigsaw for cutting straight lines. <S> I wouldn't bother with a table mounted jigsaw unless your budget is very tight. <A> If your looking for easy monuverability, than this can be easier. <S> Ive seen a german company make a very inexpensive mounting precision table. <S> The shipping is more expensive because its international. <S> Nonetheless its the best and safest way to secure your jig saw because the top arm secures the saw blade. <S> However this is literally for precision work. <S> You can use it though for much thicker wood its really a great invention. <S> I even found a video on how to build your own scroll saw , though it might be almost as much as the german one. <S> Essentially what these set ups do is make your jig saw into a scroll saw. <S> The thing is that if your jig saw doesnt have a way to screw through the shoe plate than youll have to secure it the same way <S> neutechnik does this with wing nuts, nylon jaws or maybe even a press clamp (in imagining it right now seems to work) for sure wing nuts with washers and <S> some nylon jaws should do the trick its really a gorilla project that you'll have to solve using your best options making sure that whatever you do you're able to secure the jigsaw as strong as humanly possible. <A> Answer as of September 2013 : I bought a Wolfcraft Table from Amazon and because a blade guide wasn't available I built an arm with bearings to attach to the Wolfcraft Table. <S> The parts used to make the arm were salvaged from an old steel bed-frame and the bearings were taken from roller boot wheels. <S> The current version doesn't have a safety power off switch but otherwise it works well and cost £0 (not inc Wolfcraft table at around £25.) <S> Here's the YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwbS-Yzw6RA <S> I haven't got room for a bandsaw b.t.w. <A> The "Blade Runner" bench tool is basically this, better constructed and with a safety guard.... <S> It's not much more dangerous than a small benchtop bandsaw. <S> It's much safer to do this with a jigsaw than with a circular saw! <A> I own one of these jigsaw tables. <S> It's made in Thailand by a very successful Thai carpenter <S> and it's well built. <S> I have found it to be a very useful addition to my Makita jigsaw machine. <S> As long as you are aware of the dangers and always wear safety goggles <S> it's a good thing. <S> There's a video on youtube showing one in use: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gbsjIc9mLhE
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Mounting a jigsaw in this way could make it easier to force the wood, which could lead to binding, flexing, and even cause the blade to break (which could be deadly). I've done it (there used to be router-table plates sold for this purpose), and found it less useful than it might appear.
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Cannot figure out wiring of most basic Honeywell thermostat (heater only) I live in an apartment with central heat. It's controlled by a round Honeywell thermostat. The heater ticks really loudly and annoyingly when it heats up and cools down (probably a topic for a separate thread), and the Honeywell thermostat causes it to heat up and cool down too frequently for my liking. My plan is to replace the Honeywell thermostat with an Arduino board that'll have better hysteresis, plus show a more accurate temperature readout. (The Honeywell thermostat's current temperature reading is way off.) There are two wires going to the Honeywell thermostat: a red and a beige. From my research (http://diy.stackexchange.com/questions/8019/is-there-a-standard-wiring-scheme-for-ac-heater-thermostats), that should be the standard hot and common at 24V. However---and this is why I am writing---when I measure the voltage between those wires with a voltmeter, I end up with 0 V. The heater works fine with the Honeywell thermostat, so I cannot explain this. I have not tried closing the circuit manually, since now I don't know what to think. Any ideas? <Q> That will be a fun little project. <S> I wouldn't get overly concerned about the voltage on those wires. <S> You're safest bet is to use a small relay to isolate that part of the circuit. <S> Choose a relay with contacts rated for 120V and 1A and you should be good to go. <S> This will allow you to be very flexible in your choice of coil voltage and how you drive the load with the Arduino (there are plenty of examples about how to do that). <A> Simply put, the round 2 wire thermostat is an on/off switch. <S> When the room temperature falls below the set point, the switch closes (on) and the furnace runs. <S> When the temp goes above the set point, the opens (off) and the furnace stops. <S> Tester101's answer to the related question (linked in his comment) will tell you more than you need to know about thermostat wiring. <S> Your Arduino will need its own power source, and as pilotcam suggests, a relay to complete the circuit. <S> In all likelihood, the thermostat circuit is 24VAC; a 1A relay at 24VAC or above should be fine. <S> I'm never one to squelch a geeky DIY project, but I'd worry about the implications of a program bug causing the furnace to run too long (wasting fuel, and possibly tripping its overheat protection) or not at all, risking damage from freezing. <S> Commercial programmable thermostats costing $50-100 have some hysteresis logic in them, have battery backup, and are very reliable. <A> Thanks to everyone. <S> I figured out that my voltmeter measures only DC, whereas the two terminals use AC. <S> (I was using an NI MyDAQ as a voltmeter.) <S> When I connect the two terminals, the heater starts right up.
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If you really do want to measure voltage, make sure the thermostat is not requesting heat (set it all the way cold), and set your meter for AC first... if you do get a reading, you can test again with DC to see whether you have an AC or DC source.
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Should a post in a circular concrete form go through the bottom? I am replacing a fence post that was in a circular 2-ft form. The old one had rotted where the concrete and post meet at the top - the next one will have the concrete above water level!But - I noticed that the old post was sticking out of the concrete on the bottom. I this a bad thing in that water can seep up into the post from below? Or is it a good thing in that water that does seep through the top can leak out the bottom? <Q> Concerete around a fence post is to help with lateral stability. <S> It's not being used as a footer, since there isn't a whole lot of weight involved with a fence post. <S> As such, there's no need for concrete to be below the bottom of the post... <S> in fact, you like don't want that, as you want any water that gets between the concrete and wood to have a place to drain. <S> What I'd suggest doing is to use gravel at the bottom...tamp it down with the post, set the post vertical, then add a bit more gravel and tamp down to 'set' the post. <S> Then you can apply concrete around that, above the ground and then slope the top away from the post to help shed water. <S> Depending on your soil type, you may not even need concrete--you could actually just use gravel all the way to the top, tamping as you go. <A> When I did this I painted the bottom of the 4x4 with tar. <S> I forget the exact product name right now <S> , hardware store helped select it, but it was black and sticky and sealed the wood. <S> Also we used pressure treated. <S> Is that your plan, too? <A> STOP!!!! <S> Do not allow the post to go through the bottom of the concrete. <S> Water will wick up the post and rot it right inside the concrete. <S> The bottom wants to be fully encased in concrete. <S> Also taper the top of the concrete around the post <S> so no water sits against the post. <S> Simply use a trowel to shape the concrete as it cures into a nice shallow grade/cone so the water runs off.
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The correct way to prevent rot coming up the post is to set the tube, pour a little bit of concrete to the bottom, lift the tube a few inches allowing the concrete to "mushroom" out around the bottom of the tube, then set the post and pour the rest of your concrete.
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What could cause bubbling toilet when the shower or sink is running? One of the two toilets in my rental house is bubbling when the shower or sink in that master bath area are on. In the past, about 6 months ago, I have had plumbers and rotoruter out and they could find no blockage in the line. Before I spend more money on an out of state house, could someone please tell me if they have suggestions? <Q> It sounds like the toilet, shower and sink share a vent. <S> This is pretty normal; no plumber in his right mind would run separate vented stacks for each drain in the house. <S> The drains are instead tied into one vent stack, and then stacks are combined as they flow into the main sanitary drain. <S> However, the shower or sink may be upstream of the toilet, and are pushing air in front of water which might be finding relief by bubbling up the toilet's drain. <S> The plumbing can still pass code, but the intent of the applicable plumbing code is to prevent a drain being too far from its vent, which causes air to get trapped "downstream" of water in the line, resulting in problems like this (and slow drains). <S> The design of the toilet may have something to do with it. <S> Toilets, like other drains, have U-bends; for a toilet this has the dual purpose of keeping water in the bowl, and also keeping sewer gases from pushing out into the room (similar to J-traps on sink'shower drains). <S> However, "low-flow" toilets which use 1.6GPF or less are often designed with a shallower U-bend, so that it doesn't take as much water flow to induce the siphon that makes the contents of the bowl go away. <S> You may also have some issues with tee junctions in the plumbing. <S> Specifically, I'm thinking of a tee joint being installed backwards. <S> Drain tees are not true T-shapes; the perpendicular end instead curves into the straight section. <S> The curve should direct water from the tee joint "downstream" towards the main stack, but if installed backwards it will force drain water (and air) towards "upstream" drains before gravity then pulls it back down the main line. <S> This causes a backwash that slows drains, and yes it can force air in the drain lines past traps like the toilet U-bend. <S> If the bathroom was ever renovated and the plumbing changed, and the work was not inspected (or the inspector missed the problem), this is plausible. <A> My toilet which is on a septic tank and has started doing this during heavy rains. <S> I believe @Mike is right, the septic system is backing up... <S> don't flush the toilet if it is bubbling because it will overflow. :( <A> I sometimes have the same problem and the sewer backs up, <S> but in my case the shower was placed where the bathroom sink was. <S> The shower is after the toilet and closer to exterior wall. <S> Whenever that happens I use the snake from outside cleanup and it take care of the problem. <S> I am thinking to add a separate vent for the shower. <A> If you have a septic tank make sure your pump isn't shot. <S> I had the same problem and my pump still worked but the socket that the pump was plugged into blew so in result, I had a non working pump.
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Depending on other aspects of the design, like the relative order of the sink, toilet and shower in the drain line, water pushing past the tee to the toilet may be enough to force some air through the toilet's U-bend.
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The main water valve won't open fully after I closed it. How do I shut off the water to replace it? Basically the title says it all. I turned the water for the house off to replace some leaking washing machine shutoff valves, and install stop-cock valves for a laundry sink. When I tried to turn the water back on, it came on a little bit, but now the valve-handle just spins without affecting the flow. The main shut-off valve for the house is an old gate-valve, which I gather from reading here fail on a fairly regular basis (I'm going to stick a ball-valve in as a replacement). I can replace the valve easily enough, but how do I go about turning off the water, since I need to replace the valve that I would normally use to shutoff the water to replace a valve. Is there normally a second cutoff valve in with the water meter, or am I stuck having to call the water utility company? This is at my parents house, which is ~1 hour drive away. I would just go digging around in the water-meter enclosure otherwise. FWIW, this is in California, USA <Q> This is something that should not be done by a homeowner. <S> While you may find that you can access the main supply shut off you should not use it, as you could end up being fined by the city/town/county. <S> Also if you damage the shutoff or city/town/county water line, you could find yourself having to pay for the repair. <A> You need to find the main shut off valve in the road, side walk or somewhere on or near your property. <S> They are usually placed in mini manholes with easy access: <S> But if you're unlucky you will need to get some building plans and try to find where on the plans the supply pipe runs and find the valve at the connection point to the main supply. <S> In most cases it will be near the connection point of the main supply: <S> but if its not, or if you struggle to close it call your council to help you. <S> You don't want to break that! <S> NB <S> It is easy to snap these valves- <S> if its rusted badly apply (known as WD-40, LN-40, HT-40) <S> spray oil based rust release (spray leave an hour try again.. repeat a few times), TAP the valve with a hammer (! <S> TAP! <S> , do not whack it, to help release the valve. <S> Also, usually opening the valve slightly helps to release it then try to close it. <A> Contact your local water utility it is usually through your town or city. <S> In most cases they are responsible for repairing any thing before your water meter. <S> You may have to pay a fee but is usually less than a plumber would charge.
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Call the local water municipality, they will be able to shut the water off either at the meter or before it.
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Convert Light Switch to Light Switch + Outlet Combination I have a serious lack of outlets in my garage and that is a problem for a beginner carpenter. I have a light switch by my workbench and was curious if I could change it to a combination outlet + switch? <Q> The DIY answer is absolutely not. <S> Why? <S> Running carpenter machinery of even the smallest type will use a good 300Watts? <S> Then to the large saw tables or routers that can be anything between 800Watt and 2000Watts.. <S> It can cause an electrical fire and will void any insurance of any kind in any country. <S> Light Outlet <S> By building regulation these should be about 1200Watts maximum.. <S> That is 12 100Watt lights bulbs that is easily achieved in 3 rooms with 4 fittings... <S> Also these wires are usually 1.25mm core which is way to small for heavy loads! <S> Solution <S> You will have to pull a SEPARATE, or find a separate socket that is handled by 1 breaker for this heavy machinery. <S> It might take a bit of work <S> but this will be the best and safest way to do it. <S> Pulling power from your DB(Distribution Board) you can put a new 15Amp breaker(220Volt) on the supply phase giving you extra 3300Watts just for your heavy tools. <S> You also want to make sure to have earth leakage connected as this is a life saver in many cases!And <S> that is no joke. <S> You would pull that using a 5mm2 Solid copper core cable. <S> You can run it along the outside of the wall or in tubing <S> but it MUST be in a shielded coating. <S> If you run it within pipes within the walls unshielded wire is fine. <S> TIPS <S> When working on the DB, turn off the Main incoming power, usually a big switch before the DB in newer installations of somewhere outside your house. <S> This can seriously hurt you if you don't. <S> A DB box should be neatly wired, like this. <S> Earth leakage, a life saver! <S> It is easy to install however it can be costly, but its worth it! <S> Cables, this flex cable is commonly used Cables, a shielded copper core flex cable, for extra safety! <S> Alternatives <S> If you really really cannot do it the proper way for whatever reason <S> then you must seriously think about some safety precautions when connecting to your light switch. <S> Sometimes you can buy Isolated plugs with build in fuses. <S> Try not to exceed 5AMP. <S> This is highly unrecommended though. <A> Your profile does not indicate your location. <S> ppumkin's answer is clearly influenced by European standards... and his answer is certainly correct, accurate and 'safe'. <S> But I would propose for North America, in his words: The Regulated and safest answer is No. <S> It is common in North American residences to see lighting and outlets on the same circuit. <S> Arguably in these days of low energy lighting fixtures, we tend to have much unused capacity on our 15A or 20A 120V lighting circuits. <S> Sometimes power is at the light fixture with only two conductors being fed to the switch box; other times, you'll see power enter the switchbox then continue to the light. <S> The later situation would be very handy in your circumstance. <S> You could tap off the power to feed your combination switch/outlet. <S> Things do get more complicated though. <S> For instance, in a garage, your outlet should be GFCI (not something I've seen on those combo switch/outlets). <S> Also, as ppumkin points out, you could easily run into capacity problems depending on whether you're trying to run a 10W battery charger or a 2200W table saw. <S> Best advice might be to call an electrician for a quote to go over your options. <S> The carpenter thing is a bug (I've been bitten by it), and you might find yourself wanting a subpanel (DB) in your garage to handle the big iron 220V tools in your future. <A> Your profile does not indicate where you are from. <S> If you are from the UK, then @ppumkin would be the guy to take advice from. <S> If you are from the USA, I will add my 2 cents! <S> Short answer is maybe it is possible <S> (I hear so many people cringing now!), truth is back in the 50's & 60's it was kind of accepted. <S> However as others have warned this is not okay to run heavy tooling with! <S> You should see what other circuits are on the breaker, and if it is the garage only (or lite loaded) you may want to add the outlet for small loads only! <S> That means an occasional hand drill, drop light, etc. <S> I would make the outlet a GFCI type <S> (NEC code requirement for new installs). <S> Some disadvantageous of this are: <S> If the breaker should trip on overload, you will be in the dark. <S> Limited to small loads only. <S> I agree with others, if possible the better way is to run a new circuit. <S> Perhaps a split 120-220V circuit if you plan to do a workshop.
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If you have the feed in the switch box, then you can easily add a switch - outlet combination. The Regulated and safest answers is No. How easy you are able to accomplish this would depend on where the power is fed. The DIY answer is maybe . At least put a breaker 5amp(@220v = 1000Watts) after the light switch stop overload if any and then wire a plug in. May not be code compliant, check NEC and local codes.
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How freely should a central A/C condenser fan spin? Last year my home's central air condenser fan motor stopped working. When I noticed the house wasn't cooling down I went outside to investigate and found there was a humming sound coming from the unit, but the fan wasn't turning. After researching the problem online, I found the capacitor may be bad and causing the problem. The capacitor wasn't blown, but I replaced it anyways. The problem still existed; Fan won't spin and a humming sound is coming from the unit. So, I inferred that the motor must be bad. Yesterday I unbolted the fan from the unit to try and spin the blades by hand. To my surprise, it spun. It spun 3 to 5 rotations with a medium amount of force (the same force it would take to bounce a basketball 8 feet in the air). I expected the motor to be stuck and not spin at all, so now I'm second guessing myself. My question is: How freely should it spin? I've read in numerous places that the blade should spin "freely", but I'm not sure what that means. Should it spin around 50 times with a medium amount of force? If I was holding it up in the air, should a 15mph breeze spin the blades like a pinwheel? Or is the 3-5 rotations freely? <Q> If you replaced the start capacitor, and you are getting proper voltage to the fan motor than the only thing left is to replace the fan motor. <S> If the fan turns freely or not is not a definitive indication that is good or bad. <A> It should spin freely... <S> I looked at neighbor's condenser fan and they all spin freely with very slight force. <S> However how a motor spins isn't necessarily indicator of whether it works or not. <S> A coil could have shorted or insulation burnt. <S> You can test this by taking an ohmmeter, one lead to the motor leads, and the other to the case. <S> If there's continuity between the leads and the motor casing, it's bad (and in fact sometimes it should blow breakers too). <S> You can also read the resistance of the motor leads, if it's too low then there's a short between the windings. <S> Basically a good fan should spin at least half a revolution with the amount of force it takes to lift a sheet of paper. <A> I'm far from being a HVAC person, but I do like to figure things out on my own. <S> I had the same thing happen and before you order a $300 part, all I did was take it apart and clean it really well. <S> I used graphite lubricant on the blades and 3-in-1 on the shaft of the motor and guess what?!! <S> It puuuurs now ;) Hope this helps. <A> if u change the capacitor and does not work turn the power on use a screwdriver and try turning the fan you will notice motor making a buzzing sound and hard to turn just replace motor. <S> I had the same problem and that took care of it. <S> Two more things your motor may have three wire black brown and orange <S> today motor have five wire instruction come with <S> it connect the two extra wire together with a wire nut and wrap it with some electrical tape. <S> Last i recommend u change your contact switch because when your motor start going bad it spark more and more as the motor life coming to an end. <S> I hope this was helpful good luck.
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If the fan turns at all without forcing, it should spin when powered up.
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Which should be first, pressure reducer or backflow preventer? Question pretty much says it all. I'm installing a sprinkler system in the yard, and discovered the pressure is too high (valves were leaking when on, and kick when turned on/off). I can see whichever device comes first reducing the work of the second device, but I expect it's the potential failure cases which would make it matter if one came before the other. If it matters. <Q> I say BFP first. <S> While a pressure reducer's basic operation (most are similar to a gas regulator, where a spring-driven piston controls an inlet) is generally "closed", most designs also have overpressure reliefs that vent liquid from the regulator in cases where the "downstream" pressure becomes dangerously high (freezing temperatures, or conversely overheating). <S> This relief valve opens the regulator (and the water in it) to the introduction of pollutants, and so it must be "downstream" of the backflow preventer to safeguard the potable water supply. <S> Now, as SteveR said, if the pressure reducer is designed and intended to regulate the pressure to the entire water service (reducing the pressure from the mains to a safe level for home plumbing) then its design will ensure that it cannot introduce pollutants in any situation (usually it won't have an overpressure relief) <S> and so it's safe to place in front of a sprinkler backflow preventer. <S> However, if this is a reg for sprinkler systems (i.e. drip irrigation) then it must come after the backflow preventer for the system. <A> I would think you would need the backflow valve first. <S> I don't think it maters much for operating, but I think the water co. might want it that way. <S> Are you regulating the water pressure to your whole house? <S> Or just the irrigation system? <S> I ask because if you are doing the house, then you need to adjust the air pressure in your expansion tank on the water heater if you have one. <S> The air pressure in the tank should equal the water pressure from the output of the water regulator. <A> On service protection pressure regulator should be first if you have high pressure <S> ie:above 100psiI've installed 10 backflows at lake level with tanks being at least 500' higherOver night during low usage pressures at BACKFLOWS increased and actually blew out the washer on the relief valveSome of the washers <S> actually dis lodged from the Backflow and we're laying on the groundSo needless to say I thought I was a champ after the installsAll to get a call the next morning that all the devices I installed were in full port discharge
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The backflow preventer must be installed before any point in the system where the line becomes "open" to the introduction of pollutants that would make the water unsafe for drinking (fertilizers, pesticides, herbicides, animal wastes, bacteria, and other things you generally find in your topsoil).
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What is causing my gas water heater to squeal? I have a gas water heater. Starting yesterday, when the flame is on, the unit makes a squealing noise of moderate volume. The noise stops immediately when the flame turns off. This means it is not caused by water pressure in the tank, which would take at least a moment to stop after the flame switched off. What causes this sound? <Q> My guess is that something in the gas supply line of the heater is whistling (a vibration is being induced from the flow of gas). <S> This could indicate a blockage or deformation of one or more of the gas jets. <S> It's unlikely to be any problem with the exhaust flue or with the water in the tank, as you say. <S> This is less likely especially if no other appliance makes the slightest noise, and the reg itself isn't making any noise when gas is flowing. <S> As far as fixing it, this is something I'd leave to a pro, but that's just because I know enough about gas to know I can seriously screw it up. <S> The fix would likely be to replace any obviously crushed or deteriorated gas pipes and fittings in the HWH installation, and possibly disassemble the line back to the wall to make sure there aren't any nicks or dents in the pipe ends from where the installer dropped and damaged one, then installed it anyway. <A> I experienced the same bad squeal when running a Rinnai 200e instant hot water heater. <S> It was explained to me as "kettling". <S> The water was boiling in the heat exchanger. <S> A bit like the noise the bottom of a kettle makes when it is on a gas stove. <S> The water pipes transmitted it loudly around the house as a squealing moan. <S> We tried descaling the heat exchanger first then Rinnai thankfully replaced the heat exchanger no charge. <A> I just bought a Sears water heater and it was making a loud whining-droning noise. <S> (the Sears store told me it was the flue that the non Sears plumber installed- <S> this was baloney) <S> I called Sears tech and the repairmen said it was a known problem in a gas valve- <S> took him 10 minutes to fix it. <S> I couldn't see exactly what he tweaked next to the burner. <S> But until the maker of these units posts a consumer doable fix <S> , I suggest you call the manufacturers tech support. <A> Have you checked your inlet pressure and compare with the manufacturer's specified manifold pressure? <S> If the inlet pressure is too high, you may need to install an appliance regulator and adjust it to the manufacture's specified pressure.
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The other thing it might be, depending on the tank's proximity to your gas meter, is that the gas reg on the meter (which steps down pressure from the gas main to a level suitable for your home's appliances) is starting to fail, and the heater, being closest to the gas reg, is picking up a vibration through the gas line that is induced by the failing reg.
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How to make a swing swing straight? I don't know if this is "home improvement" since it is about an item in my garden but it is not about "gardening and landscaping" either so I am going to ask it here in the hope that, since it I think the skillset required to answer questions here probably overlaps so here goes... I have bought a swing for my child and she loves it but the problem is that it does not swing straight. It is attached to a branch on a tree and as you can see in the photo below, the branch is not straight and, therefore, the ropes connecting either side of the swing are different lengths. Sadly I have no other tree to attach it to. Try as I might I cannot get a good swing action on it (the seat turns during the swing even if I am very careful and apply an equal pressure push). I have got a spirit level out and the seat is horizontal (as far as the accuracy of that is able to ascertain) but it swings all wonky. I don't know, I have been tightening and re-tieing knots for months now and my wife is getting angry and the child starts to look at me with a concerned experssion every time I sit her on it to "give it one last go." Is there a technique for fixing this thing? Should I build some sort of triangular wooden structure under it so the ropes are the same length? <Q> A triangular wooden structure as you describe should work if the ropes are the same length and the hooks the ropes are attached to are both hung vertically. <S> Pendulum period depends on rope length , so the set up you currently have couples pendulums having two different periods. <S> That's a recipe for unstable swinging. <S> Also, the angle pictured on the left attachment point will cause wobbling even if you correct the length problem. <S> That's because it causes one rope to oscillate on a different axis* than the other. <S> For maximal directional stability in swinging, you want the ropes attachment points to the limb to be set a few inches wider than their attachment pints to the seat of the swing <S> *Actually given the hookup, a different set of axes, but that overcomplicates things. <S> Just work to preserve symmetry between the two ropes and all will be well. <A> Replace your standard swing with a tire swing with just one connection to the tree. <S> The tire swing does not have to follow the same path when pushed. <S> Otherwise, I think you will need to build some sort of level and straight beam using the tree as one anchor and maybe an A frame for the other side with the beam running level and straight between the two. <A> Otherwise you'll probably need to build something. <A> The anchor points on the branch should be wider than the swing. <S> So spread them out more. <S> Also, remember that rope stretches when weight is applied, so although the seat looks horizontal in the photo, with someone sitting on it, the longer rope will end up slightly lower. <S> Probably only need to shorten by a cm to compensate for this. <S> The key thing will be widening the top connection. <A> Get a t-bracket that will extend down from the tree <S> to hook / Attach your rope to <S> so there the same length and widen the gap <S> do its slightly wider than the seat.
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Try moving the anchor points on the limb closer together - this should give you a more even swinging motion, but might make it more liable to twist.
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How do I determine if the energy savings are worth replacing windows for? I have a house with an east-facing wall which is mostly windows. In the winter, during the day I almost never have to run the furnace because of how much the sunlight warms my house. During the summer it's hard to keep cool for the same reason. I'm thinking of replacing most or all of the windows with highly energy efficient windows which I understand work by blocking the heat coming from the sunlight. I'm wondering how much that will make my winter heating bills go up and if that will be offset by the savings on my electric bill for running my air conditioner in the summer. Edit: I'm in Ohio. <Q> I have been told but have no first hand knowledge that the way low E windows work is <S> the coating is somewhat directional in the sense that they reflect summer solar energy because the sun in higher in the sky. <S> Winter solar energy is allowed to pass thru because the sun is lower compared to the horizon. <S> A simplified explanation is it works similar to a louvered window blind that is partially opened. <S> Because of the complexity of the formulas needed I would contact your local utility company about a free energy audit. <S> If the windows are dual paned now it may be possible to just have the film applied to your current windows. <A> Right now you work hard to cool but not to heat. <S> Probably the most efficient setup is to heat slightly more than you cool. <S> Heating is easier to come by than cooling. <S> Waste heat from computer, lamps, etc. <S> is a benefit in the winter but a cost in the summer, so take advantage of it. <S> Plant a few deciduous trees in front of that window. <S> In the summer they will shade; in the winter they will let light through, while still slowing the wind somewhat. <S> Of course you'll need to wait a while for this to help. <S> An operable window in the top of a tall space can work pretty well in the summer, as natural convection currents do a lot of the work for you. <S> Look in to awnings. <S> In the summer when the sun is higher, they will shade the windows; in the winter, the sun will get underneath the awnings and warm the house. <S> In general, huge glazing is beautiful, expensive, and wasteful. <A> I don't know if I can answer your question directly, but my knowledge of the Low-E coatings in double paned windows is that they're supposed to prevent transfer of heat, so while you might lose the heat build-up in the summer, you might also lose the beneficial heating in the winter. <S> The last house I owned had a similar window feature: lots of sunlight on the south and west exposures. <S> Prior to replacing those with double paned Low-E windows, it built a lot of heat in the summer on the upper floor. <S> This was reduced after the new windows, but it was still pretty darned hot. <S> I don't believe that winter heating changed that much, but we are in one of the milder areas of California (Bay Area). <S> I can't honestly say whether replacing the windows was really worth it. <S> It felt better. <S> :) <S> Based on the shapes of some of those windows in the picture, that's going to be a lot of custom windows, which could be quite expensive, too. <S> That seems like it would make it more difficult to offset the costs. <S> One possible thought, would it be possible to make some of the upper windows (easily) openable without them looking drastically different? <S> That could give you the option to open the upper windows at the hotter times to let out some of the built up hot-air. <A> While I'm not a windows man (I use Linux) <S> I don't know what the pro's say what percentage the change would save you. <S> Take your gas and electric bills and take the total <S> ( don't worry about the taxes, just leave them in for your figuring) and total them up for 1 year. <S> Now lets say the glass and install is $5000 and your energy bill is $500. <S> Now do the math; 500 X 1 2= 6000 X.2(this represents a 20% per month savings)= 1200. <S> If the windows save you $1200 on a $5000 job it would take you 4 years to pay for the glass. <S> That would be worth it. <S> I have no idea what your energy bill are or how much the glass and install is <S> but to me your answer is how long to pay for your investment versus how long you plan to live there. <S> Other things to ask is if there is a rebate from your power or gas companies, is the glass energy star, do you get a tax credit? <S> A lot of things will tip the scale one way or the other. <S> Good Luck!
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Maybe the increase in heating in the winter would be offset by a larger decrease in heating in the summer, but like you, I don't know for sure how to calculate that. Get a bid on what the new glass and installation will cost you and try to figure out how long it will take you get your money back.
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