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What is eating my drywall? Something is leaving scars in my drywall and deposits on the outside that I presume to be wood. These deposits are flat, stick out from the wall, an inch or more square, with a gap between the top and bottom layers. The 1st picture is of a groove about 4 inches long in the drywall. 2nd is of the same area with some drywall removed (showing 1/4" gap between drywall and frame). 3rd photo is of one of the fan-like deposits that stuck out from the groove. 4th is a dead bug that i found nearby, may or may not be related to the damage. I live in North Texas Click for full size <Q> Looks like termites. <S> They may not be eating the drywall (maybe the paper) but using it as a conduit to get to your wood. <S> It could be a dragonfly with a pair of wings missing or eaten. <S> A dragonfly is a predator of a termite. <S> But I think after some investigation, it is most likely a robber fly. <S> Robber Fly Pics and Information <A> The fly is a crane fly and has nothing to do with eating your drywall. <S> http://www.cirrusimage.com/flies_crane.htm <A> Googled this and your post was the first one I saw, I have the same gouges on my wall. <S> After we sprayed it with bug spray stuff started flying out. <S> They were the in ground termites. <S> Perhaps your situation may be the same. <A> The second photo is termite damage as Jon has pointed out. <S> They are eating the paper off the back side of the drywall.
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Termites travel in mud tubes and those pictures look like your drywall has lots of mudtubes. They also will tunnel through the drywall to get to the paper between the gypsum and paint on the other side. That bug is a some sort of fly.
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How can I cut through brick to add a window? I'm redoing a bathroom and would like to add a window (36x12) in the shower. This involves cutting through brick. A contractor I spoke with said he could cut it with a angle grinder (diamond blade?), but wasn't all that confident. The brick would be cut on the mortar on the horizontal but would still show unfinished edges on the vertical. So, my questions are: is the angle grinder an appropriate tool to cut brick, and are there any dos/don'ts for cutting brick? And, What are my options to cover the exposed brick cuts and make the window opening look professional? I won't be able to match the other windows since they have brick detail around the window which I don't think can be replicated Here's a photo. The window would be aligned at the top of the other windows and be about a 36" x 12" awning <Q> I won’t say I'm an expert; I've worked with someone doing something similar in the past and may at least give you some guidance. <S> Personally, I would use a concrete saw (larger blade than an angle grinder) <S> and/or a chisel to cut the opening. <S> Make sure you have help as you DO NOT want to drop the removed section(s). <S> You can use these bricks later (see below). <S> Don't forget the header. <S> I know I'm using the wrong term, but I'm referring to the steel plate that holds up the brick over the window. <S> I would also recommend that you at least talk with a mason. <S> They may be able to replicate the detail work around the window with the bricks from the removed section. <A> You will be able to use a 9 inch angle grinder with a 230mm blade. <S> I've done lots of them, although I'm a retired bricklayer and can confirm <S> it's very tricky. <S> Go to any hardware store for your masonry blade its cheaper than a diamond tip ($5 to buy one blade, which will do the job). <S> Start by using a plumb level to mark out the area with white chalk. <S> It's not a load bearing wall <S> so you will be ok. <S> Then stand on two woodensaw horses: <S> plank them out with 4 or 5 planks (don't laugh - I always put safety first and never had an accident in 55 years of using the blade). <S> Start by cutting out the perps, not the horizontals; they will come out easier. <S> Then you will be able to take out a couple of bricks from the centre panel to get at it. <S> Once the centre is out, the saw won't cut right through the brick so knock off half the brick then use a lump hammer (ie. mash hammer) with a cold chisel and bolster and an old carpenders saw. <S> Then chisel off the back of the brick - if you are careful enough you can turn the bricks around and still use them after 2 weeks clean down with a 8 to 1 ,8 cups of water 1 cup of spirots of salt 500 ml (from a hardware store). <S> Use 6 sand to 1 cement to make up some mortar. <S> Mix in a bucket with a couple of inches of water <S> and then add teaspoon of dish washing liquid and stir it up to make the mortar plyable. <S> Hope this helps. <S> ps. <S> have an assistant behind you in case the angle grinder kicks - and they will - you must hold it firmly while your offsider can pull the plug ie, pull the socket out. <S> That's how we did it - <A> I'm a home handyman. <S> I have done several of these jobs. <S> Firstly you need to cut out the brick to the size of your window frame. <S> When you have done this you will be left with half bricks. <S> These need to be cut out also. <S> You can achieve all of this with an angle grinder <S> either 5" or if you are confident <S> 9" is quicker. <S> Use the grinder to cut the horizontal mortar. <S> For the vertical cut use a masonary drill. <S> Oh by the way it is dusty <S> so wear glasses, mask and gloves.
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I would then use a chisel to remove the halved bricks and either turn them around or replace them with good ones from the removed section. Hammer and chisel will tidy up your opening. I've never used a concrete saw because they are too heavy and too expensive ($120 a day to hire). the best and safe way is to a trady in cheers.
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How can I move a toilet sewer drain in a concrete floor? The toilet in one of my bathrooms is too close to the shower. I have room and would like to move it about 2 feet. It is also a 14" rough-in and it's hard to find toilets in that size, that are not ~$500 (Toto). I'd like to make it a standard 12" rough-in. The challenge I see is the bathoom is on concrete slab. So, what's involved in moving the toilet drain about 2" closer to wall and 2 feet over? I'm not sure if the drain is plastic or iron but I imagine that would have an impact on the effort. <Q> If its on a solid slab you're looking at a jackhammer and some new fittings. <S> If your fittings are cast iron you'll need to be especially careful because its brittle and any concrete removing action around it could cause it to crack. <S> Once exposed you'll be able to see your options depending on which direction the down elbow runs. <A> How about a less drastic first step: hire a plumber with a snake scope (or rent the scope yourself from an equipment place). <S> These scopes come with locators, allowing you to trace the path of the plumbing with the locator, and by following the direction of curves on the video monitor. <S> This will show you which way the drain flows and where it connects to a parent stack, allowing you to plan for the move before you jackhammer the slab open. <S> It also makes sure that the existing drain ties into a sanitary line, and not the storm sewer (they're for very different purposes; the sanitary line is for wastewater from within the home, while the storm sewer is for your weeping tile, sump and rain gutters. <S> A jackhammer really is the tool for the job. <S> An angle grinder was designed to cut/shape metal and was not designed to cut into concrete; it has neither the proper blade diameter nor the proper motor power. <S> A jackhammer is also faster for "rough" cutting like you're going to want anyway. <S> A concrete/rock saw is for precision work like cutting a nice square opening in a brick wall for a new window/door. <S> Once you've moved the plumbing where you want it, you'll be filling in the part of the slab you cut out anyway, and new concrete bonds best to old concrete when the old concrete has rough edges; smooth cuts could cause the patch to lift out of the cut as it doesn't have as much to "grab". <A> Andrew, I moved my shower drain that is located in a concrete floor. <S> Much of the work should be the similar for moving a toilet, just on a bigger scale. <S> I used an air chisel to chip out the concrete around the drain. <S> I needed to move the drain about 2 inches and the hole I chipped out ended up over 1 foot across. <S> The concrete was only a few inches thick. <S> There was dirt below the concrete (typical for a Phoenix slab home). <S> The chipping went pretty well, just a lot of noise and dust. <S> Wear gloves, eye, ear, and dust protection. <S> My drain was ABS. <S> I cut off the old pipe and glued on new pipe. <S> Then I refilled the hole with packed dirt and new concrete. <S> It is a project that seems like it would be a lot more work, but most of the work is just chipping and removing the debris and dirt. <S> I cannot comment on what to do if you have cast iron drains as I have no experience with cast iron. <S> The digging needs to be done anyway, even if you need to call in a plumber to actual move the pipe. <S> Keep in mind that once your remove the toilet, sewer gasses can come up through the open pipe. <S> If you shove something down the pipe to block the gasses, make sure it does not go down the pipe. <S> Also try to keep debris out of your drain. <S> You don't want to clog it up. <A> Look for "Diamond Coring and Sawing" tools. <S> A good rotary hammer (around 10 Joule or more) will do the job too, but is not so precise and you will damage a larger area of concrete than necessary.
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You can use diamond tools to cut your way through the concrete.
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How can I modify telephone Cat5 cables and jacks into Ethernet ports? We just moved into a new house and I found out they used Cat5 to run the telephone network in the house. I found the junction where all the network/phone lines come together and disconnected all the wires that were capped together. I put a wire tracker at each wall port to determine which cable end in the junction box belonged to which port and labeled accordingly. Here's my problem: I swapped out the RJ11 port for an RJ45 and wired it up in the B pattern. I then put another RJ45 port at the end I determined was the matching end and wired it up in the B pattern. I plugged a switch in one end and a router in the other. The switch and router link lights do not come on, but my wire tracker makes it clear that I have the correct wire in the junction box. I tested that the switch and router should be able to talk just fine by taking a long ethernet cable and plugging them in using that- link lights galore. One last thing to note, it appears that there may be some current running on the line, somehow, even when nothing is plugged in. My wire tracker lights up, but doesn't buzz, over every single wire in the junction box, and even at the outlet in the room before I have plugged anything in to pass a signal. How is this possible when I've disconnected every wire from each other in the junction? I just assumed that from wall jack to junction box would be a straight shot and this would be easy as cake- 12 hours later, not so much. <Q> First obvious problem- <S> you haven't wired it correctly. <S> You have proven connectivity works with the long Ethernet cable so the fact you are failing to get lights shows that you need to sort this. <S> Could be a splice as Steven mentioned, or some other problem. <S> Is it even cat-5 cable? <S> In general what I do is use the existing wire as a pullthrough and replace it with known good cable. <A> A trick I use: many cat5 cables come with feet markers printed right on the jacket. <S> If I can see "252" on the one end, and it's about 50 feet to the other room, I'd expect to see 302 or 202 at the other end. <S> But if they were using it for phone, perhaps it took a side trip to another jack. <S> But even if it did, you should be able to splice all 8 wires <S> and it will look ugly but work fine . <A> If you didn't test all 8 wires in the cable, it's possible that there is a daisy-chained phone jack somewhere in the middle, passing through only two pairs. <S> Take a look at how standard phone wiring works. <S> One way to convert these daisy-chained RJ11 ports to RJ45 is to terminate all Cat5e cables in an RJ45 female port. <S> Then you can install patch cables or switches at each jack, depending on whether you want to pass the signal through or connect additional devices.
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Also getting signal on all the wires shows something is connected somewhere. Cat5 should be wired in a star pattern.
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Does a bathroom exhaust fan have to vent to the outside? Is it normal and/or code compliant to have a bathroom exhaust fan venting to the attic? I've seen this a couple times now, and the first time I saw this I thought it was very odd. But I mentioned this to a couple people around here and they thought it was 'normal' for this area (I live in a part of southern California where it is rarely below freezing). <Q> Venting this fan into the attic is simply asking for problems. <S> It is never OK to vent directly into an attic even if the attic itself is vented. <S> So, the simple correct answer is NO. <S> Your friends are misinformed. <A> See this question. <S> The long and short of it is that a vent fan, whether for a bathroom, a range hood or a clothes dryer, is normally removing very humid air from the room. <S> If that air is not exhausted beyond the waterproof "skin" of your house (up through the roof beyond the shingles, or out the side of the house beyond the siding or brick), then you are not removing the moisture, you're just hiding it. <S> On top of that, your attic is a "cold zone"; it is not insulated or climate controlled and is generally the same temperature as the outside. <S> So, in colder weather, the moisture in the air will precipitate out. <S> It doesn't have to be anywhere near freezing for this to happen; just cool enough that the air being vented, when cooled to outdoor temperatures, falls below its "dewpoint" and can't hold that amount of moisture. <S> The end result is that it will literally "rain" inside your attic; condensation will form on the wood rafters and sheathing, and that's an open door to mold (especially considering your bathroom's already a breeding ground for all sorts of nasties that can hitch a ride out the vent fan). <S> In just a couple of years, the mould could make your house unlivable, and your rafters will be rotting until the next severe weather could collapse the entire roof. <S> So, it is required by code in virtually all jurisdictions that ventilation fans terminate in a vent cap on the outside of the building. <S> There should be no leaks in the vent line that could allow the humid air to escape into an interior space. <S> Bringing the vent to an existing attic vent isn't enough, because the air can still mix before it leaves the space and form condensation. <S> You must either seal the vent line to that roof vent (which would also require you to have enough roof vents that the attic can still "breathe" with the loss of the one you sealed up), or cut a new hole through the roof for a new vent cap. <A> DO NOT VENT TO THE ATTIC. <S> I speak from experience. <S> While trying to sell my (town) house I discovered a mold problem in the attic. <S> We had a bathroom venting to a duct that was just stapled to a roof joist. <S> I knew this was there and monitored it over the course of the 5 years I occupied it. <S> Of course, it was never a problem until we went to sell it, then suddenly mold appeared. <S> Fortunately it had hardly progressed enough to be a rot concern <S> but it was a major sales problem (it cost me a private sale where I could have avoided paying a sales commission, ouch). <S> I think the cause of the sudden change was a particularly snowy and cold winter that just encouraged condensation buildup in the attic space. <S> This greatly restricted airflow which would otherwise likely have prevented the mold problem. <S> I cleared the vent but had to spend about $1,200 for the mold neutralization and prevention treatment. <S> The company also extended the bathroom vent down and out a soffit. <S> Take the time and vent properly but also evaluate the roof's ventilation. <S> Even if you have moist air entering the attic, if the roof is venting properly there's a far lesser risk of mold which prefers stagnant air. <S> The mold guy told me that as long as there's sufficient regular airflow, mold won't grow. <A> Listen to these kind people, DO NOT VENT TO THE ATTIC! <S> This could cause problems with mold. <S> Pumping all that humidity from the bathroom into the attic can lead to more serious problems. <S> I've heard cases where the rafters needed to be repaired within 6 months of using this method. <S> READ THIS!! <S> http://www.tradewindsimports.com/blog/bathroom-improvement/bathroom-extractor-fan-run-outside/ <S> It's a shortcut that can be avoided by routing the venting system 6 feet higher. <S> Pop your head in your attic and make sure that you're contractor doesn't do this. <S> Not sure if it's against code <S> but it should be!
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The excessive moisture will cause condensation on the roof members, insulation and eventually cause mold. Bathroom vent fans must be vented to the out of doors. Also, the environmental company inspector noted that the roof work that was done not too long before we bought the place had left excessive paper and shingles hanging over the ridge vent.
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How can I prevent these steel poles from rusting? I have a pole home on a hill, and the steel poles keep getting covered with dirt when it rains, so they've started to rust. I am desperate to do something. I was thinking of embedding the poles in concrete and creating a concrete floor underneath the house. Will this stop the poles from rusting? Or will the poles rust under the concrete? The house was built around 1984. <Q> Oil-based enamels "key" well to metal (better than latex) and are the go-to for protecting metal from oxidation. <S> You will first need to remove all oxidation using some wet-dry sandpaper (or in extreme cases an angle grinder). <S> There are products that will turn rust into primer; these can SOMETIMES help but really they're usually just a "quick fix", and in all cases you'll want something more than the layer these will give you. <S> As far as a more permanent fix, consider replacing these steel poles with galvanized metal. <S> The galvanizing basically forms a protective layer of oxidation that is physically tough, and shields the metal from further destructive oxidation. <S> In an oceanside climate, you can protect exposed metal by building a weather-tight box around the exposed part. <S> This will prevent rain and saltwater mist from contacting the metal directly. <S> You still will want to put a protective finish on the metal itself as a final barrier. <A> Caveat: <S> I have no idea what a "pole house" is. <S> Google came up with a lot of Hawaiian construction that doesn't appear to be iron poles. <S> However, they make paint designed to prevent rust -- <S> Rustoleum is one brand, but there are others. <S> In New York City, it is common for landlords to paint iron fire escapes to prevent rust. <S> That's where I'd start. <A> Steel poles can be prevented by galvanizing,because steel is a metal and metals are being galvanized when they have been rusted.
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Anything you'd use as a structural member exposed to the elements should have SOME form of protective coating already on it (or be made of an alloy that resists oxidation; stainless steel however is uncommon for major structural members).
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What nails should I use to attach Hardie plank lap siding to 3/4" furring strips in concrete wall? I want to attach Hardie plank fiber-cement lap siding to my concrete garage walls. It's a very small surface which requires something like 3 boards altogether. I am only covering it for decorative purposes to hide old ugly concrete and stucco. The garage door is trimmed with 2x6 boards and so I am attaching 3/4" (actual thickness) furring strips to hang siding. Hardie plank is 5/16" thick, so I will have 1-1/16".Is there any usable nails that I can use in finish nailer for that? I can't find anything shorter than 1-1/4". Will regular finish nails work? Am I stuck with hand nailing those boards? Also, they recommend 1-1/4" nails. So how bad is it if I use 1" nails? <Q> I'm a little lost. <S> First, what are you using to attach the furring strips to the concrete? <S> I'm hoping some construction adhesive and a few concrete screws/anchors to bear the weight You could use the same thing to attach the Hardee-board directly to the concrete (with a layer of moisture barrier separating them to keep moisture from the concrete seeping into the siding). <S> I'm also not sure why you're telling us what the garage door is framed with if these 2x6s aren't a substantial part of the anchor for the furring strips. <S> Understand that a pneumatic nailer will drive the nails down beneath the surface of the Hardee-board, so even with 1/16" clearance that 1" nail may contact the concrete. <S> The only additional recommendation I would give is to nail in at a slight downward angle where possible, as if you were hanging a picture. <S> The angle will not only give you a little extra depth to drive the nail, but the angle will increase the leverage the nail has to hold the siding, like using a nail to hang a picture. <A> You didn't specify the siding type (HZ5 or HZ10, etc), but according to their instructions , it needs to be a 6d nail (2" long) <S> aka 6 penny nail for wood framing. <S> Since you are probably using 1 1/4" furring strips, you may be able to get away with 1" nail. <S> I believe they specify 2" <S> (6d) nail <S> because normally it is installed outdoors so you don't want it to be ripped away in a storm or hurricane. <A> Lowes sells 1 3/4 siding/fencing nails made by Hitachi. <S> I glue and hard nail 2x4s using these; it's a little costly <S> but I've never had a problem.
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Anyway, assuming it cannot be done any other way, I'd say that using 1" nails where 1-1/4" is recommended is acceptable; maybe use a few more along each furring strip to compensate for the decreased "bite" of the shorter length of each nail.
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Why does my dryer duct have such a long vertical portion? My dryer duct follows this path: Flex duct leaving the dryer Four feet of vertical rigid steel duct down into crawlspace Eight feet of horizontal rigid steel duct, immediately below the floor Outlet approximately at-grade 90% of the vertical portion is above the floor. Since the dryer's outlet is near the floor, it seems like I could get more effective venting if I cut the vertical portion down to 1' and shortened the flex duct accordingly. Why is there a four-foot vertical portion? Does it have some rodent-control purpose since the outlet is at-grade? <Q> Well first, the outlet being at-grade is a no-no for those pest reasons. <S> They don't have to get up the vertical pipe to cause problems; a mouse or bird can nest in there and cause problems. <S> If this is your situation I'd look at replacing the vent cap with a "critter-proof" model; there are several basic ideas, some more effective than others but all better than the single-flap standard model. <S> As for the vertical portion, they probably placed it high to allow for a stackable W/ <S> D. A higher placement also allows the flex vent more room to, well, flex, no matter where the dryer is. <S> While it may seem logical to put the inlet to the vent directly behind the outlet from the dryer, doing this can actually be a pain, as the flex line then has to be fully compressed in line with the inlet and outlet, in order to avoid crushing it when the dryer is moved into place. <S> It's really hard to get six feet of flex line to do that (and you need six feet of flex line so you can pull the dryer out enough to get behind it with the line still connected). <S> You can probably take out a couple feet of the rigid vent to lower the inlet. <S> I'm not sure you'll really get more efficient venting, but it won't cause any more rodent problems than you'd already have with this setup. <A> It is possible that the previous dryer was a stacked unit with the dryer mounted above the washer. <S> The general rule for dryer vents is not any longer than necessary. <S> Two concerns I have are the flex hose if you can replace it with an elbow <S> do that if not use metallic flex not the plastic type. <S> The second concern is if you live in an area that sees snowfall higher than the outlet it could become blocked. <S> As far as rodent control check some of the new style outlets that are energy efficient by having a tighter seal than the older flap type,some point up and use a plastic ball as a seal. <A> On your length, per your description you should be OK. <S> 504.6.1 Maximum length. <S> The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 5 feet (1524 mm)for each 45 degree (0.79 rad) bend and 10 feet (3048 mm) for each 90 degree (1.6 rad) bend. <S> The maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct. <S> & <S> e..Table 603 4 for gage thickness <S> I don't think a couple of feet in your run will change much. <S> The height of the exhaust is also code; 504.6 Domestic clothes dryer ducts. <S> Exhaust ducts for domestic clothes dryers shall be constructed of metal and shall have a smooth interior finish. <S> With the exception of the transition duct flexible ducts are prohibited The exhaust duct shall be a minimum nominal size of 4 inches (102 mm) in diameter. <S> The entire exhaust system shall be supported and secured in place and shall terminate not less than 12 inches (305 mm) above finished grade. <S> The male end of the duct at overlapped duct joints shall extend in the direction of airflow. <S> Clothes dryertransition ducts used to connect the appliance to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths not to exceed 8 feet (2438 mm) and shall be listed and labeled for the application. <S> Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction and must remain entirely within the room in which the appliance is installed. <S> Exception: Where the duct termination is less than 12 inches (305 mm) above finished grade <S> an areaway shall be provided with a cross-sectional area not less than 200 square feet (186m.£.) <S> All this and the manufacturer of your dryer is how you have to have it <S> so if the manufacturer say shorter then it is shorter. <S> As for the critters, get a pest free dryer vent closure. <S> Code is from North Carolina, which they are using the 2006 International Mechanical Code .
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The maximum length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 45 feet (13 716 mm) from the dryer location to the outlet terminal. They did it anyway because it was easier to run it down through the crawl space then up to the ceiling (where, if this is your garage, they'd then have to build a sealed bulkhead to prevent exhaust gases from your car getting into the vent line). Naturally you don't want to be near as long as what is considered the OK length, but you also don't want a 2 foot run either. It just cannot be longer than standards. The bottom of the duct termination shall beno less than 12 inches (305 mm) above the areaway bottom
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What fire hazard considerations are there when creating a cable hole between rooms? Can't believe this hasn't been asked before, but I can't seem to find anything so... I've currently got a very light, very thin 32" TV mounted on the bedroom wall. It's perfect - except for the fact that I'd love to make it a bit more minimalist and put the cables through the wall it's mounted on, into the fitted-cupboard in the room behind it. In my mind, the best way of handling this is to drill a hole straight through the wall into the cupboard, reinforce it with a bit of metal piping or something, then block both ends with some sort of plastic/sponge filler. However, I'm worried about fire safety - I've heard that if you start to play around with holes between walls, it can seriously degrade the compartmentalization of the rooms and fire can spread more easily. Am I insane? Too cautious? Or are there serious considerations when mucking about with the integrity of 'rooms'. <Q> To the best of my knowledge, the only fire retardation requirements that exist for a residence apply to slowing the spread of fire between connected units - say in a duplex or row home. <S> In the case of your personal dwelling, there is almost no way to restrict the spread of fire within a residence without making it extremely inconvenient to navigate in your own home. <S> Now if you installed fire proof doors between every room, with airtight seals (ie: like your exterior doors), and fire retardant barriers like cinder block and fire-resistant foam between the walls, then your concern over putting a hole in your wall would be relatively worth considering, but I suspect that like most homes, these other barriers do not exist on the inside of your home, and so you're worrying over something that, in the grand scale of overall fire safety, won't amount to much. <A> There are requirements to have smoke detectors to notify you of a fire, and other requirements to avoid creating a fire, but not to stop it's spread. <S> It is a good idea to prevent fires from going between floors by sealing around ducts and other utility lines. <S> This completely changes when you get into multi-family dwellings. <S> But in that scenario, it's all about preventing a fire in one unit from spreading to another in under an hour (the typical time for fire rated drywall and doors). <S> The hope is that the fire department puts out the fire in that time. <S> For these builds, we have to use fire rated drywall on all common walls between units and adjacent to common areas. <S> The ceilings also received fire rated drywall and even the attic was partitioned between the units even though homeowners didn't have access to the attic in one of our builds. <S> Electrical boxes on common walls were enclosed in a box which was further sealed with fire rated caulk on all sides to keep the fire from spreading through the outlets. <S> All openings between floors are sealed with special insulation or fire rated spray foam. <S> And even the HVAC ducts have spring loaded mechanisms to close in the event of a fire. <A> As BMitch and The Evil Greebo both point out, you may not be required to seal the penetrations. <S> However, if for your own peace of mind you wanted to do it, here is what I'd do. <S> Install a single gang electrical box on each side of the wall (not back to back. <S> And don't use low voltage boxes for this application). <S> Connect the boxes using flexible metallic (or nonmetallic) conduit. <S> Seal the conduit openings using Duct Seal Compound . <S> Install desired cover plates.
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If there were, you'd need fire rated doors that seal to the floor between rooms, fire rated drywall separating sections of the home, spring loaded vents that automatically close to keep fire out of the HVAC ducts, etc. In a single family residence, with the exception of a garage, I don't believe there are any codes concerning the spread of fire. Pull the low voltage signal cables between the boxes (remember you can't put the power cord through the wall).
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What could be causing this electrical issue? The problem occurs within one particular unit of an apartment complex. All other units are fine. The problem has gradually gotten worse. All electricity within the house will flicker on and off. It is most obvious with the lights but TVs, stove, and other appliances are affected as well. At first, this would only be triggered when using a lot of electricity (ie microwave, space heater, several things at once), but now it seems to happen at random times. The tenant even gave me a scenario of when he woke up early one morning to use the bathroom and it happened as soon as he turned on the bathroom light. No one else was up and therefore minimal electricity was being used at the time. I have had PGE come out to look at the problem and its not their end. They also told me that because it's happening to the entire unit at the same time, it most likely is a problem somewhere from the main box outside to the box inside the unit and specifically the neutral line. When he took measurements from the individual breakers inside the unit and measurements would be as high as 160ish in some parts while 40ish in others. You can also see this in the ceiling lights (unusually bright in the kitchen and unusually dim in the bathroom). This problem has also damaged several appliances and things within the house (dvr recievers, dvd players, etc). Any suggestions? The electrician located the neutral line in the junction box. No damage or charring and the connection was still tight. He looked in the main panel outside - minimal corrosion, still tight. He added some paste to maximize conductance and that was it. The breakers inside are fine. He even opened up most of the wall switches and outlets to investigate but found nothing. Any ideas? This is a problem that has kept me up for about a month. I'm afraid of it being a fire hazard too. <Q> If you are the landlord I would have another electrician come out to check it. <S> It be something like a factory defect in the subpanel or main panel. <S> Every lug could be tightened and torqued to factory specs but the lug might be stripped out. <S> If you are the renter then I would make it clear to your landlord that this is a serious problem <S> and you want if fixed now. <S> Which ever you are <S> I would have every lug on the ground, neutral and hot sides torqued down to factory specs. <S> Get the electrician to do a thermal reading while the panel is hot and having the problem. <S> This would surely cause extra heat where ever it is happening. <S> If the electrician does that and nothing changes have PGE torque everything on their end and do the thermal reading. <S> I had the same problem and when they removed the meter and left I removed the Edison side covers and one of the lugs was never tightened on their end <S> but it was a factory connection that was the problem. <S> Edit <S> On questions on what to use to torque a circuit breaker, see this . <S> Each breaker has a label on it with the torque rating on it. <S> At one time there was talk of inspectors carrying torque wrenches with them to spot check circuit breakers, but <S> I know of no electricians own a torque wrench. <S> When I ask they say just tighten them down as hard as you can and they will pass any test. <S> My guess is that most residential breakers use about 20 to 25 foot inch lbs per square inch. <S> Most of the time torquing happens is in industrial plants where they want to get the maximum life out of everything, including breakers. <S> This is also why thermal cameras are sold to electricians. <S> Heat spots are bad and most of the time it is a loose connection. <S> In the OP's case I would definitely use the phrase Torque to specifications , especially if he puts any thing in writing. <S> His problem can wreak havoc on electronics and motors. <A> The break is small enough to work most of the time but under a large load it will increase in resistance. <S> Or a big truck passing by may shake the ground enough to widen the crack. <S> Try having that piece replaced. <S> Second to that, I would replace the main breaker for the same reason. <A> Given what you have probably spent already, and the danger posed, you may want to invest in one that attaches to your Android or Apple smart phone. <S> You can always sell it afterwards. <S> In the UK, a 3 day hire is around $100. <S> I'd be inclined to look at the main breaker. <S> View that with the camera and get someone to turn lights / appliances off and on. <S> Try to trace the physical route of the main cable from outside, even if it's concealed, and do the same as above. <S> I don't wish to alarm <S> but it is a potential fire hazard. <S> If for example, a rodent has chewed a concealed cable, bad news as that could cause a fire. <S> On the other hand, if the problem is inside a breaker, it is less likely that would cause a fire as they are made and usually fitted inside non-combustible materials.
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I would consider hiring a thermal imaging camera. There might be a break in the wire from the meter to the main panel.
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How deep should I sink a gatepost for a 7' wide gate in my fence? I am a first time fence builder, which will be 6ft cedar. I need a gate that is 7 to 8 ft wide. I live in Oregon and the frost line is only a foot deep. I was planning on a 7ft gate with a 6x6 post. Would that hold the gate? How deep should I sink it? I also thought of 2 4ft gates on 4x4 posts but have the same questions. The gate won't be opened a lot, just provide access to a barely used trailer and a dog run. I am concerned with the weight and that it might sag. <Q> Rule of thumb is that 1/3 of the post should be in the ground. <S> As Shirlock states, even that won't likely support an 8' wide gate. <S> Two 4' gates would definitely be a better option. <S> Perhaps the easiest solution, however, is to not even make a gate. <S> Instead, build your fence and then make this an 8' panel that is attached with temporary fasteners...such as bolts. <S> On the rare occasions that you need access, unbolt the fence panel and remove it completely--thereby negating the need for the two posts to cary the load of a cantilevered gate. <S> On the plus side, it's less gate hardware you need to buy and deal with. <A> An eight foot wide gate is going to be very heavy and most likely will sag and drag on the ground. <S> I would recommend two four foot gates. <S> As far as the foundation for your posts, to support a swing gate, they should be at least 36 to 40 inches in the ground and in at least a 12 inch diameter concrete sauna tube. <S> Frost is not your enemy here, but rot and lack of ballast is. <S> The gate posts need to be heavy at the bottom and very firmly compacted into place. <S> If the posts move under the weight of the gate, you will be greatly disappointed. <S> Spend the time to make sure they are as secure as possible. <S> The more concrete, the better. <A> have the same problem,what I did was with a featherboard fence,where I needed occasional access .firstly as stated above make sure supporting posts are substantial secondly made a panel to fit thirdly only attached to said posts with the minimum of screws. <S> If I needed to remove it would be easy and when we had severe gale recently panel popped out and needed little repair to replace
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A 6' fence should be sunk into the ground 3', so you'd need 9' posts.
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How can I fix my kitchen sink cheaply? We live in a condo. Our kitchen sink will gurgle a lot. From time to time, there will be bubbles and even an overflow of bubbles and some sediment coming up from the kitchen drain. Someone has suggested that the problem is from the previous owner who relocated the kitchen sink and did not include the proper drop from the sink to the drain in the wall. Because there is a negative slope to the pipe, water cannot drain out of the pipe, the water gurgles and backs up. He has suggested that I need to re-do the drain system and have the water travel downhill at a sharper angle. I do not have a lot of money and would like to find another solution if it exists. <Q> Since you already have a suspicion about the cause, the first step would be to confirm that. <S> The drain should slope at a rate of 1/4" per foot. <S> So if you had a 4' drain, there should be a difference of 1" in height between the start and end. <S> If its negative then that's without a doubt the issue. <S> If this is the cause, the only way to fix it is to re-plumb it. <S> If you are handy, it is certainly doable. <S> If the slope isn't the issue then you have to start looking elsewhere. <S> It is probably worth confirming that the trap is clear of obstructions. <S> Remove the trap below the sink and clean it out. <S> If that fails then while it could still be a clog, its more likely a venting issue as BMitch suggested. <S> This isn't likely to be a big job for a plumber, so it might be most cost effective just to have one come out and do it right versus buying all the tools and parts needed. <A> Bubbles and gurgling typically indicate a problem with the vent in the plumbing line. <S> Local building codes may allow you to fix this with an air admittance valve. <S> But unless you know what you're doing, I'd suggest getting a licensed plumber in there to review this work and recommend the proper repair. <A> but as mentioned if you suspect the fall problem this would be the easiest to check also if this problem has just started <S> does the sink have a removalbe trap that can be checked for blockages? <S> have you checked the main drain for blockages?
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If the sink has been relocated the problem may also be distance of the sink from a main "vented drain" and or what the drain of the sink has been connected into. Either the vent is blocked, improperly located, or not installed at all.
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How do I drill a mortise and tenon joint so I can reinforce it with a dowel? I want to make a mortise and tenon joint that will be held together with a dowel instead of glue. How can I drill the hole in the mortised stock and the tenon so that they line up accurately and produce a tight joint? <Q> The simplest solution is to drill the dowel hole after you fit the joint together. <S> Fit the joint and make sure everything's square and true, then drill straight through the mortice and tenon in one go and insert the dowel. <S> Chisel/plane and sand it flush <S> and you should be good to go. <S> Making a mark on the outside of the mortice where you want to drill will ensure you get the location right. <A> ChrisF's solution will provide you with nice, stable drilling support and it will make sure the holes line up perfectly on both parts. <S> But if you don't want to use glue, keep in mind that it's not necessarily a bad thing if the holes don't line up perfectly; in fact, there is a specific technique called "drawboring" that requires this and makes an extra-strong joint. <S> This makes the mortise pull the tenon in mechanically as you pound in the dowel. <S> The technique is the subject of a recent Wood Whisperer video: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/drawbored-mortise-tenon/ <S> Good luck! <A> The point of the dowelled/drawbored mortise-tenon joint is not to line up the to parts, but to create a tension that draws the tenon tightly into the mortise. <S> Therefore, rather than drilling though the mortise and tenon together, the drilling process is divided into three steps: <S> Drill trough the mortise alone. <S> Insert the tenon, and use the drill to mark the center of the hole on the tenon. <S> Drill through the tenon alone, offsetting the hole slightly from the marked center. <S> Offsetting the hole in the tenon, towards the mouth of the mortise, will draw the tenon into the mortise, creating a tight fit that does not require glue if cut precisely. <S> Because of the "re-use" of the drilling configuration in step 2 and 3, a drill press is preferable to hand-held options. <S> The corresponding technique for a through mortise-tenon joint would be to add a wedge trough the tenon on the outside of the joint - with the added benefit that the joint can be disassembled and resembled later, where reassembly of the drawbore mortise-tenon might loosen the fit, to the point where the dowel has no real effect. <S> I've added this answer because I feel ChrisF's answer is inaccurate, and kwakmunkee's relies on an external source that might disappear.
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Basically you drill the hole slightly off-center in the tenon and then chamfer the inside end of your dowel.
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Who to call about sinking porch and mud room? I live in Massachusetts and have a porch and mud room that are sinking. I was stupid enough to think they had "settled" when I bought the house, but now I can see that they're still sinking, which is causing some damage to the inside of the house (cracks in drywall, etc). I have heard of mudjacking, but can't seem to find anyone local. There was one guy who I stumbled on a couple of years ago that came out and quoted me $10k just to drill these things under it to stabilize it, but I didn't (don't) have the money. At this point, however, I think I may need to take out a loan to address this, but don't want to just jump at the first guy who gave me a quote. I want to gather a few quotes. Also, I want to know what my options are. If there is someone who can do something to alleviate the problem in a creative (less $$) way, that would preferred. EDIT: The mudroom is 8 x 10, the porch is 10 x 20. I just signed up for Angie's List and I am still facing the same problem: I can't find someone to call. I'm searching for "foundation" and "porch". I just can't seem to find a business that mentions anything like this. <Q> Foundation problems are NEVER cheap to solve, and sadly, someone got cheap when the work was first done. <S> Do the work right the first time. <S> Was this addition even inspected by the local building inspector? <S> If not, then you may have some legal recourse <S> if the owners did work and failed to get the necessary permits. <S> I doubt it would work, but only a lawyer would know. <S> This is not your fault of course, except for buying the house in the first place. <S> A good home inspector should have pointed this out and warned you of the cost to repair it at the time. <S> It is yet another reason to have a home inspection done. <S> Given all of that, you are now stuck with a problem, that MUST be resolved. <S> I don't even know positively that mudjacking can solve this, only a good mudjacking contractor will know for sure. <S> No matter what, there will surely be some excavation involved, even if only to determine how much must be done to repair the problem. <S> Start asking around. <S> There are foundation services companies around who specialize in problems like this. <S> Get and check references. <S> Don't just jump at the cheapest estimate you get. <A> How large of a porch are we talking about? <S> Typically you'd want someone to come jack up the porch and replace the foundation piers. <S> 10k seems really high, but then again, I don't know the size of the porch or foundation piers. <S> They might need to bring out a structural engineer or a soil expert. <S> Hard to say why it's sinking...could be undersized foundation, could be poor soil/improper footings, could be water problems, etc. <S> EDIT: <S> If the first guy quotes 10k, it may very well be a 10k job. <S> But do get other quotes. <S> Call up a few structural engineers and/or general contractors. <S> Also note that you need to figure out why the porch was sinking in the first place. <S> I've seen this happen before due to simply bad gutter downspouts where the water was pouring out right on top of the foundation piers. <S> That's bad. <A> You need to search on "foundation" and "engineering". <S> Several years ago I worked for a company who did this type of work in the Boston area. <S> Basically, we would jack up the foundation, build a new foundation and then lower the existing structure on to the new foundation. <S> However, it not as simple as that. <S> The firm was run by engineers who studied the structure and soil conditions to ensure the new foundation woud be able to handle the load. <S> Boston is famous for sinking foundations since a good part of the city sits on sand that was brought in and filled up the harbor. <S> So, you should be able to find some firms that specialize in this type of work.
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You'll want to call a licensed contractor to handle it.
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How can I color concrete? I'm going to be using a mold to pour a concrete pathway and I was wondering about coloring options. I've done this previously with this quikrete product . It worked and turned out okay, but one bottle only does two bags of concrete. The cost of color adds up pretty fast. On TV I saw some DIY show use powder that was broadcast over wet concrete. I've also seen some stains that you apply to cured concrete. Are there any cheaper options to get rid of the dull gray? This will be outside, so durability is important. <Q> After using the similar forms you describe, poured about 60 feet of walkway -- I've used the Bear concrete stains which are applied after the product cures with great success. <S> Even taken two different shades and did the "artistic" thing providing a little depth and 10 years later still looks good -- although an extra step, it went quite quickly. <S> Using the "artistic" approach allowed us to use the $5.00 mis-mixes with a little creativity. <S> hope it helps... <A> Some you can mix while making the concrete, some you apply after the cure. <S> The type you use depends on what effects you are trying to get. <S> Check out this site http://www.concretenetwork.com/stains-dyes-buyers-guide/ <S> Good information and lots of links. <S> Good luck. <A> Internally colored concrete is the best (pigments added to the mix) as any nicks/cracks/wear over time won't be nearly as noticeable. <S> Of course, that's also the most difficult to use. <S> You could consider a top-coat pigment (powder applied to the top of the concrete). <S> That's good if you need a very bright, solid color. <S> HOWEVER--if improperly applied, it won't fully adhere. <S> Sadly, we had a contractor pour colored concrete pillars. <S> He didn't get the color mix right, so had to come back and apply a top-coat. <S> Alas, the top-coat never fully adhered so our kids were forever coming in the house with red-stained pants from climbing all over them. <S> Ugh. <S> All that said, <S> I'd also go with a stain as others have recommended. <S> I'd apply it in a hap-hazard way to give it a nice mottled look that will hide blemishes and wear over time much easier. <S> Be sure to go with an acid stain. <S> An acid stain will actually etch into the concrete and act more as a true stain. <S> The nice thing about staining is that it's incredibly easy to apply. <S> Just spray/mop it on. <S> Apply neutralizer, then hose off.
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The big-box stores also sell concrete stain that isn't really a stain, but rather a top-coat that will just wear. There are dozens of stains and dyes available.
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Where could all these flies be coming from? Now is the transition from spring to summer. The house I am now living has some strange things happening. In the daytime of one day last week, I found many flies gather on the inside face of the window in the front living room. I then opened the window and drove them out. The next day, I found there were still many flies again on that window. Same thing happened again and again in the past week. Besides that window, there are also some flies flying elsewhere in the first floor. At nights they gather around our lights. I remember same thing happened in last year's summer as well. The windows and doors are either closed or have screen on. I cannot think out of some possible way for the flies to come in. There was an envelop slip on the front door, but it was by default closed, unless people from the outside want to deliver some mails to the inside. There was also a pipe stretching from the basement to the outside, for letting out vapour of heating during winters. I wonder if this kind of things has happened to you guys as well? Where can so many flies come from? <Q> Like others have said, there's probably a dead thing somewhere. <S> For example, some will breed in rotting vegetation, some will eat wool or fleece if they have too. <S> So looking for pretty much anything out of the way that could be rotting. <S> You may not find it though - attics, basements, even in the walls if a rat died in there or something. <S> The life cycle of flies is often very temperature dependent - it slows down when it is cold and speeds up when warm. <S> Some of the common flies found in houses can go from egg to adult in about a day in ideal conditions, so even if you kill them or let them out, this is probably how they are replenishing - new ones are hatching. <S> I looked up the breeding time and so on a while back, when this happened to my Mum - all these flies showed up in the lobby to the house one morning, on the ceiling. <S> It was kind of creepy. <S> We cleaned out the room, and couldn't find any obvious points of entry from the ceiling or floor, so you're not the only one! <S> What do your flies look like? <S> Different ones eat different things and have different habits. <S> This interesting looking chart describes them and gives their "favourite foods" as well. <S> http://www.jfoakes.com/fly_identification_chart.htm <S> This site gives many many pictures of flies. <S> If you click on the headers above each row of pictures, you get more pictures of flies in that subgroup, so you can keep getting more and more specific pictures and ID. <S> Not recommended if you are grossed out by fly pictures. <S> http://bugguide.net/node/view/55/bgpage <A> We went away on holidays for 4 weeks and returned to a house full of flies. <S> I sprayed them everyday and kept all the flyscreens shut so they couldn't get into the house, but somehow they just kept multiplying!There <S> was nothing in the house that smelled off or any food scraps or dead animals. <S> After 4 days of this driving me insane <S> I realised that our coffee machine had sat unused for 4 weeks <S> and I had not cleaned it out yet. <S> I have now cleaned it all out and we have no more flies! <S> So check all your appliances too particularly coffee machines/filters and toasters, ovens, etc. <S> I hope you find out the answer to where they are coming from! <A> Cluster flies . <S> They might come in through can lights in the ceiling from the attic, or other tiny cracks. <S> You might try putting up some fly strips in the attic. <S> Add fine screens to the inside of attic vents. <A> They're called cluster flies. <S> They find a way into your house and leave their scent on the trail so others follow. <S> We had them hanging out in our skylights and would find the dead ones all over the house. <S> They're attracted to the inside and "drown" in a fine powder made from crushed egg shells. <S> These worked OK, but we still had them. <S> Last spring, we had our attic re-insulated and the first thing they did was seal all openings from the house into the attic. <S> Voila - no more flies in the house. <A> If you have a fireplace open the damper and take a whiff. <S> You may have a bird,racoon or some other animal in the chimney. <A> This happened several times in my last place. <S> I'm not sure if they crashed into a window or just thought our back patio was a nice place to retire, but each time I found the bird's remains out back. <S> I still am not sure how or why the flies got from the bird to inside the house. <S> But once in the building, I think they got into air ducts, and from there followed light sources trying to get out, and we ended up with dozens of flies on an inside window like you said. <S> I would check your exterior walls, patio, yard, etc for any remains. <S> It might be hard to spot as one time I did this, the remains were quite decayed already, almost just a pile of feathers. <S> Try not to touch the remains directly and of course clean up afterwards. <A> This happened to my place...turns out that the flies breed in the soil in pots that I had moved inside at the beginning of winter. <S> The only solution is to take the pot out and let the eggs freeze.
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If you can't find anything and the flies persist, then as others have mentioned you could have something in an attic, chimney, flue, basement/crawlspace, roof eaves, etc. Each time it was because a bird had died outside our condo. Bingo - a fly had laid eggs in old coffee grounds that were sitting in the bottom of the machine. However, depending on the fly type, they could be breeding in very dirty water or in pretty much any organic matter. We bought some things called 'cluster busters' - that attach to the window where they hang out.
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How to deal with Mice coming into the Baby's Room Possible Duplicate: How can I get rid of a mouse in my house? Our first child is due any day now, and we've got a mouse infestation. We noticed it for the first time at my girlfriend's baby shower (lots of cakes and crumbs out), and since then we've started seeing it more frequently. I say "it", but we suspect more than one of them, based on other people's comments. This was upgraded from "something to deal with" to "major problem" when my girlfriend found mouse droppings in the baby's room. We've put down poison traps in the kitchen, where the thing's been seen most often, but we're wondering what else we can do. Our principal concern is to keep the mice away from the baby's room (other end of the flat to the kitchen, but it doesn't seem to help). Obviously we'd like them gone completely, but it's terraced accomodation (shared walls), and we can't control our neighbours behaviour. We're also concerned about leaving poison or traps in the baby room. <Q> If you look carefully the problem may be worse than you estimate. <S> Remove drawers from kitchen cabinets and check inside for droppings. <S> Check the lower shelves of cabinets and any where food is stored. <S> Try to eliminate food sources,crumbs,pet food etc. <S> should be cleaned up and stored in sealed containors. <S> I would contact the property owner and the local health dept. <S> In multi unit dwellings treating one unit doesn't stop the problem. <S> You could try an plug in electronic pest controller although I don't know if they are available in your area. <S> They emit a tone that the pests don't like but people don't hear. <S> It would eliminate chemical exposure to the baby. <S> Keeping the mice out of the babies room is only part of the solution as you may contact the mouse feces and then handle the baby. <A> Personally, I feel a mouse infestation where they are in the main areas of your house crosses the line from "pest annoyance" to "serious health issue. <S> " There are of course many things you can do on your own to repel or even eliminate mice, but if you have a baby on the way, you need the problem solved correctly , and quickly. <S> Therefore this is one time when I would definitely get a professional's help. <A> block access (plug all holes in the structure... <S> permanantly, if you can...otherwise use stainless steel wool) <S> Unfortunately, in a shared structure, #1 and #2 are hard to do completely. <S> I'd probably consider the exterminator as well <S> (as the landlord can have them do the entire building...not just your unit).
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3 basic things to do: get rid of food access (put cereal in plastic tubs, grains in glass jars, etc.) trap existing mice (I'm a fan of the glue traps...though they may not be the most humane, they do work) Call an exterminator, or if you rent, insist your landlord call an exterminator.
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WR outlets; is it trying to tell you which way is up? I know about this question (I posted an answer to it), but this one's a little more specific. Consider a weather-resistant outlet, like the ones below: Notice the first picture has the plug in what most of us would call "right-side-up" orientation; the blades are above the ground pin and it looks like a face. However, the blue WR logo is upside-down when you look at it this way. (It's hard to tell from the pictures, but the TR logos between the blade slots are oriented so that the logo for the receptacle on top of the assembly is right-side up either way.) The second picture shows a similar plug, oriented so the blue WR label is right-side-up. This places the ground pin above the current-carrying blades. That got me thinking that this was done for a reason, perhaps to get us to mount the plug "upside-down", contrary to most folks' sensibilities, in order to provide the best weather resistance. It makes a certain amount of sense; a plug mounted this way that then gets rained on would have water contact the ground pin or conductors first, and then drip down to one of the powered legs, causing a short to ground that trips the breaker and is somewhat less likely to try to conduct through you. Are the manufacturers trying to tell us something? Is it preferable, regardless of how you would normally orient a non-WR outlet, to install a WR outlet ground-pin up? <Q> The NEC book does not address the issue, though many Outlet Suppliers have cut-sheets that say to mount with the ground up. <S> From the brief comments I had with Electricians and Inspectors, it because if a plug is pulled slightly out form a outlet, there is a potential for something to connect the Hot/Neutral together by landing across the two spades. <S> If the Ground is up, that potential for that is dramatically decreased. <S> What does the cutsheet for your outlet say? <S> Most plug (not outlet) <S> vendors make plugs for devices that have the ground down as that seems to be the way most people install them. <S> All of my Installs have been with the Ground up. <A> The answers to the question you linked to apply here as well. <S> THERE IS NO STANDARD (in residential situations). <S> If you talk to 10 electricians, you'll get 11 reasons why it should be one way or the other. <S> Ultimately, the manufacturer can print the labels whichever direction they choose. <S> Concluding that a receptacle should be installed with ground up or down based on the printing, is not a very sound conclusion at all. <A> Probably the best answer for this sort of thing is to be consistent throughout the house, and be consistent with what people expect. <A> I've been told by manufacturers that you should follow the writing on the yoke or strap <S> but I've seen it both directions on some brands. <S> Leviton points residential grade to the ground down and commercial and industrial grades ground up. <S> I guess thats why GFI's have the print on the reset button go both directions. <S> One of the main reasons for the ground up is that if a knife or paper clip should fall, the ground up would keep it from shorting. <S> EDIT <A> Although I have heard of common receptacles being described as "monkey face", the fact is that they are officially "U-Ground". <S> Further, if you search "NEMA receptacle" you will find the ground up. <S> When I have worked in hospitals, the customer REQUIRED the ground be up. <S> Also, if you look at the catalogs of the various manufacturers, they are illustrated with ground up diagrams. <A> I have them ground side up in my home and at my job <S> and it causes trouble with AC/DC adapters <S> (wall warts, power bricks). <S> The larger ones can pull themselves part-way out of the outlet if the heavy part is up high. <S> Some power bricks don't have a polarized plug and can be put in either way <S> but that's not always the case. <S> Most people suggest putting power bricks on a surge strip so you can manage wires better and easily turn all connected devices off when not in use <S> so if you only have a couple of the larger ones in the house, it may not be an issue. <S> Many of them have a polarized plug and can only go in one way. <S> That said, it is sometimes handy to have a night light shining mostly on the floor <S> but I'd rather do that by choice than have the outlet decide for me. <S> I have no idea what that does to the device by running upside down. <S> Heat from the lamp would rise through the device itself and would probably shorten its life. <A> Some appliances have a triangle shaped plug end. <S> Also a heavy triangle stylecord will be more prone to pull away from an outlet if the outlet has the ground at the top. <S> This can cause a gap between the plug and outlet-the verything we want to prevent.
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If the ground on an outlet is at the bottom it will not put a strain on the cord. Actually Leviton puts their WR - TR - WR/TR like a GFI, where you can read the WR correctly no matter how you mount them. Also, I've had issues with night lights in ground-side-up outlets.
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Is it safe to run a USB cable inside a wall? I need to extend a USB device from a corner of my room to the above the fireplace. Since I'm already going to be installing some HDMI and audio cables through the wall, I'd like to have my USB device run through the same wall plate ; I'm not having any luck determining if it's safe to do so, whereas it's quite easy to find in-wall rated HDMI or speaker cables. Would this extender be safe to run through the wall? <Q> If you are going in-wall over 16 feet, you need an active extender as many have pointed out. <S> One alternative to this is to use a Cat5 extender: this allows you to run Cat5e/6 in-wall (riser or plenum cable is rated for in-wall use), then convert to USB at both ends as needed. <S> One I found at Monoprice is rated for 150ft. <A> USB 2.0 standards specifies that the maximum length to be not more than for 5 meters (16.4 feet). <S> USB 3.0 does not have a length rating but the wire gauge (26 AWG) limits it to 3 meters, or 9.8 feet. <S> Source is from Wikipedia . <S> EDIT gregmac is bang on with running the cat5. <S> 0A0D is right about the safety end. <S> It's like speaker wire in wall. <S> As for the extenders in the wall, I really don't think any wiring, even low voltage with coupling or connectors that are not accessible should be run in the wall. <A> I wouldn't run USB cable in a wall if it is not rated for in-wall installation. <S> One option you may not have considered is a Wireless USB hub. <S> http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&q=wireless+usb+hub&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=2468399203349082242&sa=X&ei=Yq-VT5mxAYW46QH_tbW7BA&ved=0CLoBEPMCMAE# <A> Generally speaking, most low-voltage wires are OK for behind-the-wall wiring. <A> Is it safe to do run USB in the wall? <S> Yes. <S> Does it follow the standard ? <S> Possibly. <S> The standard sets the limit at 5 meters, so if it is less than that then you should be good. <S> USB is notoriously testy about current flow. <S> While it may work for your current setup, when you try the new USB 3.0 at high speed you may get some nasty data loss. <S> Not to mention the EMI from the other cables. <S> If you insist on running it through the wall use a high quality cable that is shielded. <S> If you need more technical info the full spec is here Good luck!
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You can not run just any speaker wire in the wall, it has to be in-wall rated. If you are using USB 2.0 and your run is more than 16 feet, then I would suggest not to run it. The reason I like gregmacs answer is that cat5, with the right connectors can be used for a multitude of things. You could release toxic smoke or cause a fire if not done correctly. It's less intrusive and works well depending on what you are planning to do.
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What should I do with leftover sulfuric acid from a sump pump battery backup? In our new house, we found that a previous owner installed a sump pump battery backup unit, which is nice. The battery in the system is like a car battery, but it's the kind where you initially add sulfuric acid to, and then periodically top off with distilled water. However, the owner left behind the container of leftover sulfuric acid. The manual for the battery system says to never add more acid to the battery, only water. So, what should I do with this acid? Is it dangerous to keep in the basement? Will it emit bad vapor? Can I keep it in case I need more if I buy a new battery in 5 years? Should I dispose of it? How? <Q> If you can not find someone to take care of the acid for you, it is possible for you to dispose of it yourself. <S> this page which references batterycouncil.org which most discreetly describes the process outlined here <S> that states: <S> The high acidity may harm grass and soil, so try to do this in your driveway or on the patio outside. <S> If you have batteries to dispose of, pour the acid out of the battery into a plastic container that will not break down in acid. <S> If you are unsure, pour just a little in the container and see if there is any reaction before emptying the whole battery. <S> Use rubber gloves and goggles <S> anytime you are dealing with highly concentrated acids. <S> Acid is harmful to the skin if exposed and especially to the eyes. <S> If concentrated acid touches the skin, thoroughly wash the skin for five to ten minutes and then sprinkle with baking soda to neutralize any remaining acid. <S> Fill a larger container half full of water. <S> Slowly add some of the acid that needs to be disposed of and stir gently. <S> Slowly add the baking soda, one tablespoon at time. <S> The solution in the container will bubble and foam as the baking soda neutralizes the acid. <S> Continue to stir as you add each tablespoon full. <S> Once the bubbling and foaming is complete, test the solution by adding another teaspoon of the baking soda with stirring to see if any more reaction occurs.. <S> When the reaction is complete, wash the solution down the drain and refill the container half way with water. <S> Neutralize all the acid in the same manner as Step 3. <S> Pour the neutralized acid down the drain. <S> Follow the neutralized acid with lots of water. <S> Continue to run the hose for five minutes after you are done and then turn off the water. <A> I'm going to second <S> mikes advice about wearing rubber gloves and safety glasses, especially if you can't guarantee that the container is properly sealed. <S> If you get any on you, simply flush with lots of water, and apply a paste of baking soda and water to neutralize (I would flush first while someone else mixes the paste). <S> For transport, just make sure that you have something that will keep it from tipping over. <S> OK, now to the reason I answered: places that you can take it. <S> The easiest is if your town or city sponsors a hazardous waste day or provides a hazardous waste dropoff (more likely in a large city). <S> Call first to ensure that they take acids. <S> Most will, especially acids that are commonly used in home improvement, such as sulfuric and hydrochloric (aka muriatic). <S> If you have a relationship with a repair shop, you can call and see if they'll take it (for use with batteries). <S> They probably won't, and a stranger definitely won't, but it's worth asking. <S> A metal plating shop is another possibility. <S> They probably won't accept it for use, but might dump it into their waste drum for a nominal charge. <S> Finally, if mikes scared you, there's Clean Harbors or similar companies. <S> They'll come to your house and scare you even more, and you'll pay through the nose. <S> But it will be gone. <A> Remove it from the basement while wearing safety glasses and rubber gloves and a rubber rain coat if you have one. <S> If you can get a plastic storage container store it out side in that. <S> Some communities have a waste/chemical collection but are typically once a year. <S> Once you find someone to take it then comes the problem of getting it there. <S> You donot want this stuff inside of your car. <S> Try to find someone with pickup or trailer. <A> Google household items with a high ph then dilute and sulfuric add together until the color changes and starts to get thicker then dump it down the drain this is ok at this stage <S> it is not acid anymore <S> it's called neutralizing <S> I am a metal finisher I've been breaking down sulfuric acid for a long time <S> this will be easy and not scary at all just dilute first and always add acid to water.
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Gather together all the acid you need to dispose of and put on some sort of concrete pad. You can try an auto supply store or battery specialtyshop to see if they will take it or anyplace that recycles metal as most take batteries.
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What are these large pieces of plexiglass? I found these large, heavy pieces of plexiglass while cleaning the shed on the property of a house that I just bought. I have no idea what they are or what they are used for. They are about the size of a kitchen table and if there wasn't 6 of them back there, I would have guessed it was an old table top. As you can see from the pictures, they are very dirty, but from what I know about plexiglass, pieces this size do not come cheap. The 6th piece is on the right side of the other 5. It seems to be of higher quality, you can see from the pictures that it is more clear. It is also heavier. It also has a crease around the edges of it that you can see in the pictures. I thought it was real glass at first based on its weight and hardness. Any idea what these are and what they are used for? Click for full size <Q> They look like high-end desk chair mats , perhaps for use on carpet. <A> I doubt that they were meant as chair mats. <S> That old plexiglass would not make a good one, being too prone to break and scratching and coloring very quickly under normal use <S> (Polycarb wasn't around then). <S> Plus there were better, cheaper alternatives. <S> The edge-groove in that one sheet suggests an attempt at an edge-mounting bevel. <S> The fact that there were several suggests spares or repeated application. <S> I'd guess that these were intended for windows with a "60's look" -- having seen similar once upon a time. <A> It is almost impossible to know their original intended usage. <S> My guess is the person scavenged then from some application like that, then kept them hidden away in case they ever found a new use. <S> That you found them still hidden says they never did find a use, and that you won't either. <S> However, I'll bet that you can sell them on Craigslist or ebay. <S> Or bring them to your local auction house, where all sorts of things like this get sold.
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Perhaps they were "windows" in a set for some old play, then removed and saved after the set was torn down.
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Risk from installing a "Nest" thermometer without shutting off home power? I'm trying to install a new Nest-brand thermometer in my parents' house (unscrewing a thermometer from the wall and screwing on the new one. The first instruction in the manual is to shut off power to the house. What is the risk of not shutting off the power? <Q> Some systems are line-voltage in which case you could get a 120V or even 240V shock from the thermostat wiring. <S> I believe the Nest is designed for 24V systems. <S> It does seem a bit extreme to suggest turning off the power to your entire house. <S> I would probably settle with turning off the power to your furnace and then verifying with a non-contact voltage tester to ensure none of the wires are live. <S> On many thermostats, you can verify they are not getting power from the furnace by removing the batteries - if this display stays on, it's getting external power. <S> If the display dies, then its not. <S> Always assume it's live until proven otherwise! <A> I've not installed a Nest thermostat, but I have installed a BAYweb thermostat (similar concept). <S> The precaution is with the HVAC systems that are being controlled with the thermostat, not the entire house. <S> In this case, safely turning off anything being controlled by the thermostat should suffice. <S> And to be on the safe side, flip their breakers as well. <A> Most furnaces have a fuse to protect the 24V components, though. <A> I am an Australian based Home Automation installer and Systems Integrator rather then shutting off the entire homes power locate the circuit breakers for the Air Conditioner and switch them off. <S> As the power that goes to the Thermostat comes directly from the air-cons main unit (usually outside)
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Shutting off the house seems extreme, but you could easily damage the furnace control board if you let the wrong wires touch during the installation.
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Who to call to fix electric oven? My electric oven stopped heating. The range works fine. The digital controls work fine. The oven light works fine. But neither the element at the bottom of the oven nor the one at the top heat up at all.I've run my fingers over both elements, and there don't seem to be any burnt or rough spots. At this point, I have no idea what to do. And I don't even know whom to call. An electrician? A handyman? Or would it be cheaper just to buy a new oven? The oven was here when I bought the house several years ago, so I don't have the manual or know where they got it. If anyone has any advice, I'd appreciate it. <Q> First I would check the circuit breaker, flip it off and back on then re check oven. <S> If it does not work think about what you have done since last you used it <S> , are you sure the door is latching closed and the controlls are on the right position? <S> If you know someone who has lived in the area for a long time ask them if they know who to call. <S> An electrican can fix it. <A> If the stove top is working you are getting power. <S> The person you want to call is a large appliance repair shop. <S> They will be able to diagnose the problem, give you an estimate and hopefully give you an honest opinion if the repair is worth it. <A> You can find the model/serial number of your oven usually etched on a metal plate around the oven door or inside the oven. <S> The easiest way is to call the manufacturer and they will recommend a service provider for you. <S> Keep in mind that average service calls (assuming the appliance is no longer under warranty) is gonna be in the hundreds. <S> Depending on the value of your range/oven, it may make sense to simply replace it with a new one. <S> Best of luck.
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Call any local appliance sales place and ask for a recomendation on who to call.
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Can I clean my under-the-floor dryer vent? Our laundry nook is smack in the middle of our house. The dryer vent goes into an interior wall, turns 90° downward, soon turns 90° back the way it came, and goes straight for four or five meters until exiting a tube near the ground on an exterior wall. I'm a new homeowner and knew nothing about this stuff until just recently, when our dryer has started drying clothes very very very slowly. We unhooked the dryer and used a shop vac to get several big chunks of lint out of the vent. Then we got several big soaking wet chunks of lint out of the vent. And we weren't done getting lint out it when we ran into the maximum length of our shop vac hose. Further reading and investigation has turned up several interesting pieces of information: There hasn't been a vent cover on the outlet of the dryer vent the whole time we've lived here. There's really supposed to be a vent cover on any dryer vent. There's really, really not supposed to be any water infiltration in your dryer vent. This has apparently been a really, really, really big fire hazard for who knows how long. So given that we don't have the tools necessary to clean the thing properly, we're planning on calling a repairman tomorrow. Money's very very tight, though, so first I thought I'd ask: Is there any way of satisfactorily cleaning our dryer vent ourselves? Or is it going to end up being cheaper to call in an expert to fix it for us? <Q> As to why there is water in there - hopefully it's just condensation. <A> Do NOT use the dryer until you get this fixed. <S> I think you know that already, but as you realize, it can easily cause a fire. <S> You are lucky it is wet in fact, as otherwise there would have been a fire. <S> So first, get a screen to put in the dryer, and clean it out after every use. <S> Next, get the vent cleaned out, and do that periodically. <S> Don't wait until the dryer starts to slow down. <S> Do so at least once a year, and given the number of bends, twice a year might be a good idea until you know how quickly the lint accumulates. <S> You CAN do this yourself. <S> The first trick is to cut the vent in several spots, so that you can access all parts of the vent. <S> The shop vac trick is a good idea, and where a straight length of vent can be found, use a vent cleaning kit. <S> Personally, since my vent is simply 4 inch diameter metal duct, I bought a chimney cleaner, with a 4 inch brush. <S> At the end, a chimney cleaning brush screws on. <S> Yes, I said to cut open the existing vent in several spots to access it. <S> Do so cleanly. <S> This allows you to put the vent back together, but using a twist lock kit (called a Dryer Dock) that is made for EXACTLY that purpose. <S> Amazon sells it. <S> This is just a plastic union, that with a quick twist pops open. <S> While the picture shows it screwed to a wall, you can put this inline anywhere. <S> Use a pair of hose clamps to re-attach the vent to each side of the dryer dock, and now you can do your vent cleaning quickly and easily every time. <S> The nice thing is a clean vent will mean quicker dry times, so much less energy used. <A> There are plenty of good answers here about how to clean the duct. <S> However, no one is dealing with the long term problem of how to stop it from clogging up in the first place. <S> This should be attached between the dryer and the wall, hopefully at eye level so that the build-up will attract your attention every time you use the dryer.
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They make Dryer Vent Cleaning Kits for this very purpose: This will intercept much of the lint, but enough will still get through, and the many bends in this vent make the air slow down enough to cause problems. All it is is 4 pieces of flexible plastic rod that screw together, so I can make it as long as I need it. What you need is an Inline Lint Trap. I know it can, because that is what I did.
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How can I replace a sliding glass door with a broken seal? I have a sliding glass door and the glass is etched around side; the seal broke and dust has come in and I don't know how to fix it. <Q> If repairing the glass as RQDQ suggests does not pan out, you have three options: Order replacement glass. <S> Manufacture and shipping of the custom dual-pane glass panel may take from one to several weeks. <S> Order a replacement panel from your door's manufacturer. <S> This may or may not cost more than replacing the glass, but you will be able to replace the panel with basic DIY tools and skills. <S> This may not be possible if you cannot locate the original manufacturer or if an exact match is no longer available. <S> Replace the entire door unit. <S> This may be appropriate <S> if the original door is not high quality, you want to upgrade, or perhaps if you want to change finishes (from metal-clad to wood or vinyl-clad, for example). <S> This will require more skill, as you will need to remove and replace trim inside and outside the door, and possibly will involve removing and replacing siding in the vicinity of the door. <S> In either of the last two cases, it is more than a 1-person job; be sure to have help to safely handle the removal and replacement of the panel or door unit. <A> Is the glass etched or cracked? <S> If it's etched (and you can get to it), you can polish that out. <S> The seal broken is a different issue. <S> There are kits available on the market to remove moisture and replace the air between the panes with an inert gas. <S> Depending on the age of the unit, it might not be worth repairing if it's on the verge of failing in other areas. <S> This page discusses some options for repairing windows: http://homerenovations.about.com/od/windowsanddoors/a/artfailedwindow.htm <A> Call a qualified glazing company to look at the door. <S> As a glazier I can tell you that there is a lot more to changing out a patio door unit than you see. <S> Most patio doors manufactured in the last 25 years that are of the "aluminum" variety have pretty common sizes unless they are custom doors, which makes them cheaper as most suppliers of glass shops carry units "in stock" for these sizes. <S> When changing out a unit, we must remove the corner screws and sometimes corner keys along with the gasket. <S> If the gasket is broken or worn, good luck finding a new one if you're not in the glazing industry. <S> We carry about 15 different sizes. <S> Then the unit has to go back together by hitting (with a mallet) <S> the styles back onto the glass: if not proficient in this methodology you can break the glass and/or the new seals. <S> Then you must align the unit, check the rollers and adjust for the new placement in the track and lubricate. <S> It Is far cheaper to hire someone for this type of job as it may be daunting once endeavored upon, at which point may be too late.
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Typically a company that specializes in glass replacement would measure the panel, order replacement glass, and install it in the fixed or moving panel from your door.
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How do I fill in around waste pipes? Broke the concrete in my basement to run new pipes for the basement bathroom. The plumber put sand under the pipes to support them at the correct angle. I asked him not to glue the vertical sections as I'd probably have to disassemble them to build the wall there. My question is now... What type of cement do I use to fill it back in? Should I hammer drill into the sides of the cutout and put a few pieces of rebar in? Can I just fill it up with sand and level it? Click for full size <Q> Can you just fill it with sand and level it? <S> Yes, I suppose so, though it is not a good idea. <S> This would probably be viewed as a problem when you decide to sell this house. <S> It would be a tripping point, so dangerous. <S> It might also be an avenue for radon gas to get into your basement. <S> Do you need to have rebar into the sides? <S> I doubt that. <S> There is no load being carried here. <S> No real need for serious strength. <S> Just try to minimize any trip points. <A> You can just use bag cement(quickcreate) to fill it in. <S> Rebar is not necessary. <S> Just make sure you compact the fill and that you have a min of 2-3" of concrete. <S> And don't forget to duct tape any stubbed out openings. <A> These pipes are way too close to the surface. <S> Pipes need to be buried in sand or aggregate and then 3" of slab needs to be poured on top. <S> The problem here is the initial design: the bathroom should have been relocated across the room where proper burial and slope could have been achieved.
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Just pick up a few bags of cement from the home store, mix it up as indicated in a wheelbarrow, and trowel it in. Make it reasonably flat, but you need not be a perfectionist if this is simply a storage area.
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What primer should I use to paint over nicotine stained walls? What primer should be used before painting over nicotine stained walls? <Q> I would just use a good stain covering primer like Kilz . <S> I have used both KILZ 2 <S> ® Latex Primer and KILZ® Premium Primer , the Premium version is noticeable better than the Kilz 2. <S> But it looks like they have an even better version called KILZ MAX™ Primer . <S> I have never used this one but <S> it does mention covering nicotine: <S> KILZ MAX™ is a water-based primer, sealer and stainblocker developed with new technology that’s formulated to perform like an oil-based product. <S> It tackles tough stains including medium to heavy water damage, rust, smoke, nicotine, grease, tannin, ink, pencil, felt marker, pet stains and more. <S> KILZ <S> MAX also seals pet and smoke odors. <S> Topcoat with latex or oil-based paint. <S> Kilz does recommend cleaning the surface; see the "Surface Preparation" section for all of their recommendations. <S> The most relevant section is this: The surface must be clean, free of dust, grease, wax, peeling paint, mold, mildew and wallpaper paste. <S> If washing is necessary, use a non-soapy detergent or a TSP substitute. <S> Rinse well and allow to dry. <A> I've also had good luck with Zinsser B-I-N , which is shellac based. <S> This might be overkill for your situation, but I've used it with great success on hard to cover stains. <A> Agreed with all the "clean first" comments, but you might try tri-sodium phosphate (TSP) as your detergent, as it also etches the surface, providing a "nap" on the paint to make coats stick. <S> It is generally titanium dioxide and shellac powder, in an alcohol base. <S> It is suitable for both water- and oil-based paint, and is indeed ideal for covering an oil-based stain with water-based paint for that reason. <S> Because it is alcohol-based, it dries quickly and cleans up easily. <A> The painted surfaces and wallboard are porous, allowing the smoke molecules and odors to become embedded, in the walls, ceilings, carpeting, and furniture. <S> With any temperature or humidly change the embedded odors and particles reemerge creating unhealthy air quality. <S> Out-gassing (sometimes called off-gassing, particularly when about indoor air quality) is the release of a gas that has dissolved, trapped, frozen or absorbed in some material. <S> Out gassing can include sublimation and evaporation, which are phase transitions of a substance into a gas, as well as desorption, seepage from cracks or internal volumes and gaseous products of slow chemical reactions. <S> We found using Seal Krete or shellac as a primer that only one coat of paint is required saving time and money. <S> Both Shellac and Seal Krete has the viscosity of water use a short nap roller and do not overload as it will run on the surface. <S> If you chose to use a sealer or shellac as a primer, when you're ready to paint use paint with built in primer, higher viscosity than regular paint, thus only one coat. <S> Now you’re ready to paint, add the ionic paint additive to the paint, turns the wall surface into a permanent air purification system
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My favourite primer for difficult situations is white pigmented shellac, like the B-I-N product mentioned, but there are generic off-brand versions that are cheaper.
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How can I connect two indoor ductless A/C's to one compressor? I have one Hitachi i-clean split AC 2ton unit installed in my home. I want to connect another indoor ductless unit to the already installed outdoor compressor. I only need to use one indoor unit at a time. How do I connect two indoor units to a single compressor - is this possible? <Q> If his house is relatively new and well insulated and not too enormous (1500 SF or less) and not in a very hot area, two tons is probably enough for the whole house most of the time. <S> I've got 2.25 tons downstairs and 2.5 tons upstairs in a 3200 SF house <S> and it's always been more than enough so 2 tons for 1500 <S> SF or less is probably fine even if you run both evaporators at once. <S> However, I would want to be sure that you could switch off one of the two evaporators because that seems essential to his planned usage. <S> It could be for energy savings or just because he already knows 2 tons isn't enough for the entire house, he doesn't say. <S> The actual question of connecting two evaporators to one condensor is quite easy, you just need to add a T to the freon supply and a T to the freon return. <S> But how will the compressor be told to turn on? <S> You don't want the room with the evaporator you are not using to run the compressor. <S> And how do you stop freon from going to the evaporator you are not using? <A> The outdoor unit needs to have a control board that allows for more than on indoor unit to hook to. <S> At minimal you would need to changed the board unless it already has it in it, which is not common. <S> Then the system must have separate valves for each indoor unit so to prevent refrigerant flowing to the unit not being used. <A> Yes it's possible. <S> If you really do use only 1 at a time, this piping (tee it in where possible) will work. <S> Only 1 terminal will work at a time and the condenser will only see 1 indoor coil (the load). <S> If you use more than 1 terminal at a time, then it depends if the outdoor unit (outdoor compressor) can meet the demand (indoor coils). <S> A 2-ton outdoor unit will give you a little more than 2-tons <S> when more than 1 terminal unit is operating <S> but there is a limit. <S> Each manufacturer can be different regarding how to wire in the additional thermostat. <S> Check with a rep to find out the exact Tstat wiring (i.e., the inclusion of another indoor unit) and Tstat programming. <S> Good Luck! <A> It can but you must modify the circuit to protect from operating both of them at same time by the following: <S> Modify the compressor protection by adding relive valve to bypass the pressure upon increasing pressure. <S> Use two solenoid valves each one at the O/P T tube which will feed the Indoor unit. <S> Solenoid valves will be feed power from O/P terminal in indoor unite which assigned to feed out door unit and add relay protection to prevent both solenoid open. <S> Remember if you are feeding the the two indoor unit from different power source so you must install relay or contractor which will feed the Compressor from independent power source or direct. <A> You can try with this idea and you may not go wrong. <S> The idea is "Do not try to run both indoor unit simultaneously. <S> This is important in load aspect when we connect two indoor unit to one out door unit ". <S> Secondly we can use a two way switch like what we use two switchs to control one light. <S> In the same logic, at a time only one indoor unit can be run and you can cool any of one room. <S> But trying to run both the indoor unit simultaneously and either of one will definitely cause load mismatch to the compressor and hence not viable. <A> Just put a T Valve on the out and Input side of the Freon but at each line after the T Valve, add another Manual Valve that you can personally close or open when every you Need to. <S> This will allow you to either use the two unite at a time or just close the other unite manually when you dont Need it. <A> I have installed this system it works great but with a small problem. <S> I have connected 2 indoor unit with 1 outdoor unit and use 2 T-joints on liquid line and 1 T-joint on return line. <S> With system, 2 danfoss solenoid valves are connected just before the inlet line to the each indoor unit, these valves are protected by contractor relay and connected with power supply to indoor unit. <S> Apart from that i used additional capillary tubes on each inlet line to indoors. <S> It works great when used one unit at a time. <S> But when two units run simultaneously then there is a cooling difference between them. <S> The one unit cools more, and the other one performance is not satisfactory.
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You need to install two T connections at the IN/OUT of compressor.
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What to expect when tearing up carpet? What should I expect when I tear up carpet? My brother's dogs have stained my carpets with their pee and poop, he also has tracked in grease from his work boots and stained it with tattoo ink. I want to tear up my carpet and do something different on the floor. Was thinking just painting and sealing the concrete and put down some throw rugs. What's easiest for someone who doesn't have a lot of experience in this type of thing? <Q> expect stains, smells, and possibly mastic/glue. <S> If you're looking for an 'industrial loft' feel, clean it up the best you can <S> and then just cover it with some high-end concrete/floor paint...or epoxy. <S> It'll be rough, but practical. <S> Come back and then apply an acid stain to the entire thing. <S> When finished, give it a seal coat. <S> That's what we did with our basement floor and, at least for me, I love the look. <A> I'm not sure if your question is, 'What am I likely to find under my carpet,' or 'What should I do after ripping up carpet?' <S> If the question is the former, the answer is absolutely anything depending on the age and history of your house. <S> I know people who have ripped up carpet to find concrete, wood floors, and in one case magnificent hardwood that polished up real nice. <S> It sounds like <S> you know there's concrete under there, <S> You can pull up carpet in an inconspicuous corner and peek, but if you rip it all up I try to be ready for anything, and make sure you have the budget to deal with some surprises. <A> After removing the old carpet and tack strips, spray the stains with Kilz, patch cracks if there are any, and paint the whole concrete floor with floor paint to make sure no stains gets embedded in your concrete floor in the future. <S> Use floating vinyl planks instead: they are easy to install. <S> You can do it yourself and save big. <S> They are very durable and cheaper than hardwood while having the same look. <S> Easy to clean and maintain too.
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For a more finished looked, hire someone with a concrete grinder to grind off the bad top layer of glue, dog pee and what-have you. but I think some unknowns would be whether it is stained or not, and whether there are any big cracks in it from the foundation settling. Since you live in Florida, laying new carpet is not your best option due to weather and high humidity.
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How do I drill a hole in a shelf without going all the way through? I need to drill a hole in a shelf that's half an inch deep but I don't want to drill a hole through the shelf. What's the best way of doing that? I have a drill and i was thinking of showing just a half an inch of the drip bit. This way, I can force the drill to drill all the way to the end of the drill bit and not go through the shelf. However, a part of the drill bit's thread is being held by the drill for grip. Would using the drill and the drill bit in this way cause damage? <Q> Yes, the drill chuck will mar the finish of the shelf. <S> There is a slight chance of damage to the chuck. <S> Plus, choking down on the bit, like that, obscures your view of the hole (the drill and chuck block it) -- making precision harder to accomplish. <S> The correct way to do this is to use a drill stop . <S> Drill stops are less likely to slip than tape or zip-ties, and are much better for precise and/or repeated drilling. <S> If marring the finish is an issue, clamp a piece of 1/8th plywood over the site and adjust the drill stop accordingly. <S> PS: <S> A piece of wood over the hole is usually a good idea anyway, when drilling finished surfaces. <S> It helps reduce both splintering and the scratching that occurs when flakes of drilled wood or metal whip around the bore site. <A> I usually just wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit leaving the correct length exposed. <S> You can either wrap enough layers of tape around so that it is fairly thick, or leave a "flag" of tape sticking out. <S> Either way will let you drill to the proper depth without the risk of marking the surface. <S> The metal jaws of a drill can easily damage the surface if you allow them to come in contact. <S> http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/tips/more-masking-tape-uses.aspx <A> you can use a bit of scrap wood that is the length of the expose drill bit minus the depth you want to drill so that when fully drilled through with the chuck touching the scrap it will only leave the desired drill depth exposed this way you can use the scrap as a guide as you drill and also ensure the hole is square that or use a drill press if you have one. <A> There is also that stuff that you always leave in the box when you get a new drill... <S> (if your drill is equipped with a drill stop) then this is when you would use it. <A> One that works well, and costs very little, is the Century Drill and Tool 73512 <S> Adjustable Drill Stop ". <S> The two pieces are both plastic, but extremely strong plastic, that will last years, and because it is plastic, it hardly ever leaves any marks on the wood. <S> It works with 1/4" to 1/2".
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The easiest and cheapest way that I have found is to use a drill stop on your drill.
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Why is my A/C condenser fan motor wiring backwards, and how can I fix it? I've just replaced my condenser fan motor on my home A/C unit with this unit: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/GENERAL-ELECTRIC-Condenser-Fan-Motor-2PRA6 The HP, RPM's and amp ratings all match. The old one was CW only and the new was CW/CCW. I switched the jumper to make sure it was spinning clockwise like the old one. I researched how to wire it and got it installed. It fired up right away and sounded good, no vibrations or anything. The problem is air was blowing down and out of the side instead of out of the top. I immediately thought I installed the fan upside down even though I marked it before removing it from the old unit. I then took a look at the blade closely and the blade has a concave shape that is turned up. From what I understand that is indeed the direction the concave shape of the blade should point. Additionally, the blade is slightly discolored on the edges, but curiously in the counter-clockwise direction. Finally, and perhaps most importantly, the arms that the blades are riveted to and the mounting hub are under the blades when looking down. So, I know it's definitely installed correctly. Next, I took a look at the wiring on the contactor. When I removed the old motor, I cut the wires and left them connected so I knew exactly where they were when installing the new motor. Then, I noticed something strange on second inspection. Black was on L2 instead of L1 like on every post I found online on how to install this motor. It was this way for sure from before, I did not confuse anything. I waited until just before I installed the new one to remove it from the terminal. I'm wondering if the initial installer reversed L1 and L2 to get the old motor to spin counter-clockwise. I know that's possible with DC motors, but I don't know if that was common practice. My first instinct was to just switch the directional jumper on the new motor, but if it's currently hooked up backwards, I don't want to leave it that way. <Q> Yes, the concave shape should always curve in the direction of the air flow... <S> (Click to enlarge.) <S> Switching the L1 and L2 wires wouldn't change the motor's direction and the colors are a bit arbitrary since this is a 220V circuit. <S> Verify that it is 220V and that neither wire is the neutral, then mark the white wire with black electrician's tape to signal that it is "hot" too. <S> It's a common thing to switch the polarity of the <S> start windings relative to the run windings to change an AC motor's direction . <S> These are usually yellow and orange wires, and the previous installer may have switched these. <S> If you can't tell that this kind of switch was done, don't worry about it and set the new motor's jumper to get it spinning in the right direction. <S> But, if you aren't certain or comfortable with the situation, have an electrician look it over. <A> I bought a house and the A/C condenser fan was spinning counterclockwise (blowing through the sides and sucking from the top). <S> I guessed the capacitor was bad, but it turned out it was good. <S> I followed the 2 wires from the fan and switched them. <S> Either one of them must be on the "fan" port and the other on the "common" port, along with one wire from the condenser. <S> It worked. <S> The A/C is now functioning fully and properly, both from this change and from a good cleaning of the evaporator coils, condenser coils, blower fan, and drip pan and tube. <S> There is a fin comb to help straighten the fins. <A> I installed a new dual capacitor and the fan started spinning the wrong way, after testing the fan- common terminals ( 5 mf either way ) <S> I reversed the terminals and now the unit is working OK, so the position of the terminals determined the direction of the fan rotation.
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I pulled the dual capacitor out and found the wires had been connected wrong.
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Are there any good videos available that teach basic carpentry? I apologies if this was already covered but I could only find a thread on books, and it was geared towards someone having some basic skills already. While I am far from useless, I never had a reason to learn much about home repair when I was around people to teach me. I recently relocated across the country, including buying a house, so now there's tons I want to do. Unfortunately I don't really know anyone here I could ask to help me learn, so I am basically left to learn everything via books and videos. I have been doing pretty good, as I am laying a paver patio and doing it correctly, fixed underground sprinklers, and a replaced a toilet (got help there since it was my first time). However I am now getting to the point where I want to do some basic wood work and I have really never touched a power saw till today to cut a sprinkler pipe. I have a few books I bought however my lively hood it my hands on computers so this is something I really feel I should be watching to see how things are correctly done rather than read a book and guess off the pictures. I am not expecting to knock out walls or replace windows by any means. To start I want to do some very basic projects like repairing my fence entrance (looks like I just replace 3 wood pieces), build a 20 gallon fish tank stand, and build a base for a shed I just ordered. These are extremely simple projects that if i mess up a bit, its not a big deal visually. Through them I hope to learn basic cuts, joins, and tool handling. With the tank stand I'm hoping to learn basic staining and painting so down the road I can build a nice 100 gallon tank stand. It just seems these are smart starter projects. I'd eventually like to then build a nice work bench after i get the basics down, allowing me to build something a lot bigger where a bit of uneven cuts wont be life or death since it will just sit in my garage. Can anyone suggest a video series or website that is geared at the very basics such as going over the different types of saws and tools you can use with what each are best for and how to use each correctly? I'd love something that covers the most common rookie mistakes so I can learn from others mistakes instead of making my own (sure I will make some, but better to learn the majors off others error). This especially includes something that teaches me all the key safety tips, which surely is important and something that can be hard to learn via pictures in a book. I found tons of sites that outlines basic projects or go over specific tools but if I don't know what a miter saw is used for, I wouldn't know that I should be watching that video. So to start I would love just a intro 101 type video to get me introduced to all the tools and what not. Again I am very sorry if this is to "general" for the forum. I am a common stack overflow user and this seemed like the best stack exchange site relating to my topic. <Q> I learned a lot from watching "This Old House", back in the day when the home owners did a lot more of the work (now get off of my lawn). <S> I also learned a lot by watching the "New Yankee Workshop". <S> However I didn't watch these to learn anything specific, I just watched them because I enjoyed them. <S> I'm not certain how they might suit your needs. <A> As far as books, I highly recommend The Complete Book of Woodworking: http://www.amazon.com/The-Complete-Book-Woodworking-Detailed/dp/1890621366/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1335885982&sr=8-1 . <S> It's easy to follow even for the uninitiated. <S> It goes over the major tools, what they are used for, and has excellent instructions on some starter and intermediate projects. <S> There are even some workbench projects toward the end, one of which is made only from plywood and 2x4 lumber. <S> I made it with a jigsaw and really uneven cuts, and it's held together well for about a year (it's usable for everything except hand planing). <S> I'm also a software engineer by trade and learn well from books, so I spent a good few months obsessing over this book in my apartment before buying a house and really getting started. <S> He's also very technical and comes from a science background, so the engineer in me relates well with him. <S> He doesn't leave out many details. <S> Fine Woodworking is also very good and for $5 a month you can get access to a ton of video content. <S> http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com <S> http://www.finewoodworking.com <S> SawmillCreek and WoodworkingTalk are nice forums to search through for tips and discussions about what tools are best used for what projects. <S> http://www.sawmillcreek.org <S> http://www.woodworkingtalk.com <S> Most of these will discuss fine woodworking, furniture making, and detailed joinery, which you may or may not be interested in. <S> All of them, however, will give you information you want about tool usage. <S> It may be more detail than what you're interested in for the projects you describe, but if anything you'll be over-prepared. <A> There's a video series that fine homebuilding put out on Youtube called Framing (Floors and Stairs, Walls, and a Roof) with Larry Haun (there are three). <S> This is from 1992 but the information holds up! <S> As always, the code probably has changed since then <S> but I found the videos very informative. <A> Youtube is a surprisingly good teaching tool, and any book on the subject will probably be worth reading but if you're serious the best and safest way to learn is to work with somebody that already knows what they're doing. <S> The master/apprentice relationship helps you learn in three ways, 1. <S> Direct Communication: "do it this way". <S> 2. <S> Critical Communication: <S> "don't do it that way!" <S> A good teacher will see you doing something wrong and point it out to you. <S> 3. <S> Osmosis: <S> "so that's how you do it!" <S> A good student will see a teacher doing something (something they might not even be consciously aware of) and learn from it. <S> As Sam Maloof once said "an apprentice must eyes in the back of his head." <S> Videos,books, and the internet will only give you a dime-store education, but working with an expert will give you the deeper understanding necessary to work safely and efficiently. <S> Now as to how to secure such an arrangement...? <S> Find a working carpenter and bribe them? <S> Stalk a cabinet maker and ingratiate yourself to them? <S> Craigslist personal ad? <S> That could be interesting. <A> What you described contains both carpentry work (building a fence) and wood work (building workbench etc) <S> so depending on what you ultimately want, the resources could be a bit different. <S> Here are some good recommendation that I find beginner-friendly. <S> General home improvement: <S> HouseImprovements and <S> See Jane Drill . <S> They cover a lot of common home improvement tips and tricks which I find super helpful. <S> It's fun to just watch their videos and learn. <S> Woodworking. <S> Steve Ramsey's channel is focusing on "get started" with basic tools and building basic projects. <S> Very beginner friendly. <S> There are also a few channels that tend to build things without using super expensive tools so they are also quite beginner friendly, search for "Fix <S> this build that", "3x3 custom", "April Wilkerson", "Fisher's shop", "Jon Peters" in youtube. <S> Finally, if you want a more structured and systematic training. <S> There should be local woodshops near you in which you can take classes from personal tutors; or if you want to take it more seriously, you can take courses in local colleges.
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For video instruction, The Wood Whisperer is one of my favorites; he gets into what tools are used for, how to set them up and tune them, and has some videos dedicated to safety. HomeDepot/Lowes has youtube channel and DIY tutorials in their website that cover a wide range of home improvement tasks from fixing a leaky faucet to installing an outlet
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How can I make these bath valves easier to use? I'm looking for a way to make the valves in the pictures below easier for my mother to use. She has a bad case of arthritis in here hands, so this was suggested by a nurse. I would really prefer any ideas that don't require opening up the walls and replacing any plumbing. Do I have any options outside of that? I was thinking of changing the handles. I also thought about removing the valve stems and replacing them with something, but I'm not sure if this is a real option. Any suggestions would be appreciated. <Q> They have a ceramic disk which usually last about 3-5 years before needing replacement. <S> If you decide to keep the old taps you would want to disassemble the "shaft" or spindle and replace the washers in it (jumper valve and spindle o-ring/s), clean the thread inside the spindle housing and put some tap grease in there to make it easier to use. <S> This link shows the tool for cleaning the inside of the spindle and you could also reseat the brass that the washer seats against with a reseating tool <S> p.s. <S> I wouldn't recommending using the one pictured as they are rubbish and leave a ridge In the seat <S> but it will do for illustration purposes. <S> Then make sure what type of handle you need the porcline lever handle set in the picture <S> has a centre external screw, which doesn't look like it will fit with your spindles as they all have an external nut to hold the handle on, but just check the old ones before purchasing new ones to save wasting money on taps you can't use. <A> A search on Google for " replacement shower handles " returned a ton of hits... <S> A couple simple ones are Design House 522631 Madison Shower Handle Kit, <S> Satin Nickel Finish or for a more antique look she might like Porcelain Lever Handle , <S> both of which are < $25... <A> I'd try something that has a single lever to turn. <S> These are generally easier to grab. <S> And while you're at it, a similar replacement for doorknobs can be helpful. <S> A quick google turned up this: http://www.moen.ca/bathroom/faucets/tub-shower-faucets/_/N-683Z1z141uvZ1z141qu?Ns=P_Product_Popularity&offset=0
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As shoemaker said lever handles are a lot easier for the elderly to use, you may want to consider changing to ceramic disk lever handle taps( the whole top assembly) as this don't get harder to turn off as the washer wears out because they don't have one.
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Do external faucets have an indoor shutoff valve somewhere indoors? Spring is here! So I decided to see if I could draw some water for watering the plants outside and... no water and no pressure at my outside faucet. I just bought my house (1948 victory house in Canada). so I'm wondering if perhaps houses normally have some sort of indoor valve that controls flow to the external faucet and if so where that would normally be located. I'm going to be checking my main line inside my house today but I have to move the washer and dryer off their pedestal to have a look. Do external faucets have an indoor shutoff valve somewhere indoors or should I not bother moving my washer and dryer and just call a plumber? Edit: I finally managed to find it inside of a wall stud. Using a technique described here. Is there a way to trace water pipes through walls? <Q> Yes, typically houses in northern (freezing) climates have an indoor shut off. <S> When winterizing your house, you should turn the indoor valve off, and leave the outside one open so that the water can drip out. <S> The danger is that the water can freeze and burst the pipe. <S> I'd look for the shut off in the basement, on the other side of the wall where the outdoor faucet is. <S> Trace the pipe back until you find something. <A> Yes. <S> The valve will likely be either very near to where the pipe that feeds the outside fixture exits the house, or where said pipe splits from the main trunk line. <A> My house did not have a cutoff valve until the line to the outside faucet froze and broke early one winter. <S> I turned off the main, fixed the pipe and added a turn off valve. <S> Years later, I found that even though the cutoff valve was in the off position, the pipe broke again over the winter. <S> There was a place in the line that did not drain and the pipe froze and split. <S> I did not know that it had split until I turned the water on in the spring. <S> Since this house is new to you, I suggest that you be prepared for a problem when you turn that cutoff valve to the open position. <S> Hopefully there will be no surprises. <A> Some outside faucets use freezeproof valves. <S> These valves have the faucet handle outdoors but the actual valve is located about a foot away so it is inside the house and hence warmer. <S> My house used these and there was no other shutoff valve other than the main water valve to the house. <S> One of these valves broke because I didn't remove the hose from the valve during the winter and water got trapped inside the pipe and froze. <S> I replaced this valve with a conventional outside valve and another inside. <S> Although this requires turning the inside valve off during the winter and on during the summer, it is more reliable and safer since you have 2 valves in series. <A> My house built in 1959 has exactly that - a shutoff valve just inside the wall where the pipe goes through.
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In most areas where the temperature drops below freezing at some point throughout the year, it is common to have a shut off valve inside the house.
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How can I repair/replace tires on a hand cart? I have a few small hand-carts. One of them is the two wheel hand-truck/dolly, and one is a larger one on four wheels with an upright handle. Both have leaky tires. Some of the tires have a slow leak that I need to pump up every time I need to use the cart, but one tire won't even hold air for 20 minutes. Is it possible to find the leaks and repair them? Or is it better to replace the wheels? <Q> Quick and dirty <S> You could try some Fix-a-Flat . <S> If nothing else, it might show you where the leak is. <S> Finding the leak <S> Pump the tires up and apply some soapy water to them, or hold them underwater in a large bucket. <S> This will help you locate the leak(s). <S> If the leak is in the sidewall, you'll have to replace the tire. <S> If the leak is near the rim ( and the rim is not bent ), remounting the tire might fix the problem. <A> If you look at the tires the size should be a size on it. <S> It should be 6.00x4.00 or something similar. <S> Then look for a tube that size,you may find a wheelbarrow tube, a snowblower tube or small lawn tractor tube that is the same size. <S> Getting the tire bead to separate to install the tube can be difficult. <S> I have squeezed the tire in a vise,stood on the tire,left it on the hand truck without air in it <S> put a load on the truck and rolled it across the floor until the bead separated. <S> Once the bead is broken insert a ratchet extension in the axle hole. <S> Pivot a screwdriver into the tire and rotate it around the extension to remove the tire. <S> Cut off the orignal valve and install the tube. <S> Work the tire back on the wheel with a couple large srewdrivers. <S> It usually goes on easier than it came off. <A> Another option may be to replace the wheels with solid wheels. <S> If I kept getting flats, I'd blame it on the environment. <S> If it's happened multiple times, your fix won't last too long till the next puncture. <S> Harbor Freight has a really good selection of wheels for that.
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Plugging the hole If the leak is in the tread, you could try a tire repair kit like this
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My house has steel "2x4s" in the walls, can I hang cabinets, a TV, or some other heavy item from them? The question is pretty much all in the title: My house has metal "2x4's" in the walls. Can I hang cabinets or a TV directly on these metal studs? If not directly, is there something special I must do? My experience with wooden 2x4s tells me that they are super strong and with correct anchor screws you could mount very heavy items on them with no problem. The reason I ask about these metal 2x4s is because these metal 2x4s seem to bend very easily, and I'm worried that if I attach my TV to them that they might start to bend and put a lot of stress on the drywall causing it to crack or worse. Am I off base? Is there some technique I should be aware of? <Q> Metal studs are great for framing walls. <S> They are super light, easy to work with, straight. <S> But you've discovered one drawback... <S> they don't have nearly the strength of a wooden 2x4 for mounting things to it. <S> Metal studs do come in different gauges though. <S> The heavier, the better. <S> But it sounds like yours are fairly lightweight. <S> Some options: take down the sheetrock, add some wood 2x4s, re-sheetrock find toggle bolts suited for this (they may exist, though I doubt any are rated for hanging actual cabinets or HD TVs). <S> add your own mounting panel on the outside... <S> such as some nice finished furniture grade plywood. <S> Since the plywood can be attached to multiple studs in multiple locations, it can spread the load. <S> get an entertainment system designed with its own 'wall' panel. <S> Ikea has several, for instance: <A> They make anchors that have a 2 inch piece of metal that you can bolt to. <S> See http://www.lowes.com/pd_115385-10337-55150_4294925630_4294937087_?productId=3183817&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&pl=1¤tURL=/pl_Fasteners_4294925630_4294937087_?page=3&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=&stop_mobi=yes <S> These are great. <S> I've used them to hang a dozen flat panel tv's in metal studs. <A> I install <S> 20 to 30 tv's a week and more and more of these installations are to homes with metal studs in the walls. <S> If you are mounting a newer tv (even the larger ones are under 65 lbs) and your mounting a flat or tilt mount. <S> there is no need for reinforcing the wall. <S> You need to make sure your mount has a wall plate that is 24 inches or more so as to cover two studs. <S> Find the center of the studs and use strap toggler bolts through 1/2 inch holes in the metal studs to secure the mount. <S> On top of those 4 bolts I always suppliment the wall mount with an additional 4 strap toggler bolts spaced evenly to help keep the load spread. <S> Remember you can torque down the toggler bolts that go through the metal studs but only tighten the supplimental ones to the point the washers dont spin. <S> This is done by cutting 3/4 inch plywood (get the sanded type). <S> Cut it to 30 inches by 24 inches and mount it to two metal studs. <S> Use three toggler bolts for each stud. <S> Before I mount it on the wall I cover the back with construction adhesive. <S> It helps keep the plywood in place and helps distrubute the load of the tv around . <S> Once the board is installed you can use simple lag bolts to mount the TV mount to the wall. <S> I've used this technique over 100 times. <S> I am the number one rated installer in south florida. <S> And I have never had a TV I have mounted ciome off the wall. <S> I will add that if your mounting to a rental property you brief the tenants that the glue will make the installation permanent <S> and they should get approval from their landlord before you try this . <A> Plan A:You could drill holes through the sheetrock and metal studs and then put the toggle bolts through the metal studs. <S> While this is not as good as screwing to wood studs, I believe it is substantially stronger then a screw. <S> Plan B: <S> Use ten times as many screws. <S> Plan C: <S> Supplement plan A or Plan B with liquid nails (liquid nail to the sheetrock as a supplement). <A> I helped a friend mount a 50" TV on his wall with metal studs. <S> We used lots of screws (sheet metal I think), so it was a strength in numbers situation. <S> I'm not suggesting this was best solution by any means.
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Now for fully articulate mounts you MUST reinforce the wall. Also, since you are hanging a TV on the wall, you might be cutting a hole behind it anyway to run wires through, so you can cut a piece of 2x4 and put it in the hole and fit it in too the stud to spread out the load.
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Are hot water returns worth putting in? Once I saw on an episode of This Old House that they were putting in hot water return lines: pipes that recirculate idle hot water back to the heater so you get hot water right away, instead of wasting time and water. My wife and I are looking to getting our first home and I think this might be a beneficial investment to make at some point. I also am skeptical of the cost. Is it worth it to install them? Or is it a matter of convenience? <Q> After doing a bit of research on what exactly hot water return lines are I found this page which goes into a lot of detail about how they work and their benefits and drawbacks. <S> Otherwise you will be heating water for it to go to waste when you aren't using it. <S> So you will need to add up all the costs: extra pipework lagging to minimise heat loss extra redecoration where you've worked on the pipes the extra heating costs etc. <S> and decide whether it's a fair price to pay for instant hot water. <S> Another alternative would be to change the pipework so you don't have any long runs or even install secondary heaters for parts of the house. <A> "worth" would be your call. <S> How important is it to you that the water is hot instantly when you turn on the tap? <S> The benefits of a circulating pump is that you aren't wasting water waiting for the hot water to come. <S> The drawbacks are that you are wasting energy constantly circulating and re-heating water you aren't using. <S> If you use a lot of hot water, one alternative to consider is a tankless on-demand heater installed near the faucet. <A> If you have the walls open and access to the pipes anyway (say you're doing a full kitchen reno), it can be a worthy project. <S> Just like ChrisF said, the hot water line must be well-insulated. <S> I actually think the return line SHOULDN'T be insulated, because as it's allowed to cool it will pull heated water through the loop by convection. <S> This will provide hotter water faster at a cost of running your tank heater more. <S> If you don't have access to the pipes, there are still a couple of options. <S> The Hot Water Lobster is a flow-control valve that goes between the hot and cold supply pipes of the furthest run from the tank. <S> When the water on the hot side drops below a settable temperature threshold, the valve opens to allow the cooled water to return through the cold water leg (which after all is connected to the HWH as well). <S> The downside of this system is that your cold water will be warmer, and it's not as efficient as a dedicated return loop. <S> You can also use an electric point-of-use heater, like this one . <S> This will hook to the supply line under the sink (or wherever) and keep a small amount of water ready for instant use, which should be enough to last until the hot water from your main HWH gets to that faucet. <S> The one I linked to only draws 1500W, which is just a little more than a 15A breaker should have on it (80% of breaking amperage = <S> 1440W, <S> but theoretically the breaker won't trip until 1800W). <S> So, you'll want a dedicated 20A breaker for a heater like this. <A> I plumbed my entire 3 flat myself and put a return line to the bottom of each tank. <S> Sweated copper. <S> Completely well worth it. <S> Anyone that tells you differently is foolish. <S> With pex tubing & connections, the job is significantly easier and cheap.
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The big drawback I see is that you will need to make sure that all your hot water lines are well lagged to minimise the inevitable heat loss that will occur with the hot water sitting in the pipes.
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Why would an iMac computer cause lights on a circuit to flicker when it goes into sleep mode? Background My wife has an iMac computer that is approximately 3 years old. When the computer goes into sleep mode the lights on the circuit the iMac is plugged into flicker. My house was built in 1963 in Missouri. The house has 100 amp service all wiring is copper and grounded properly. What I have done Originally I didn't realize the iMac was causing the lights to flicker. So I looked at all the wiring on the circuit looking for a loose neutral. Nothing was loose anywhere. I looked at the breaker in the panel to see if it was loose. It was not loose but I replaced the breaker anyway. I tested the voltage on the panel and it appeared to be between 119 and 120 so I assumed the box was ok. The flickering still persisted so I called an electrician. Unfortunately the flickering was not happening we he arrived (at this point I still didn't know it was the iMac). He looked for loose neutrals and checked the panel. He said the panel and circuit looked fine. One morning my wife walked into the office and started using her computer. I was in the bathroom watching the lights flicker (and losing my mind) when the lights stopped flickering. Alas, I figured it out and could reproduce the issue. Whenever the iMac when into sleep mode the lights flickered. Typically my wife would be using the computer and let it sleep overnight. This is why I notice the circuits flickering only at certain times! I plugged the iMac into other circuits, set it to sleep and the lights on the other circuits flickered as well! So it was definitely the iMac... I take the iMac to the local Mac shop. They think i'm crazy as they have never heard of such a thing. The run it through all their tests and it passes w/ flying colors. They contact apple. apple declares it impossible and it must be something w/ my wiring. They said they could replace the power supply in the iMac (around 150 or so, not steep) but it is probably not the issue. I posted this question on apples forums and didn't hear anything. I found someone on google complain of the same issue but didn't see a resolution. Any thoughts from the electrical experts? I'm going to run the iMac over to the neighbors house and if his lights don't flicker i'm going to assume it is my panel, as it causes flickering on all my circuits in the house. I do know that some of the circuits in my house have new copper wiring where another light fixture or two was added. Newer copper wiring shouldn't have any problems with older copper wiring should it? <Q> "Hot fault" in the wiring... <S> Exotic interference. <S> Is there an electronic switch or timer, or a low-quality UPS, or one of those infernal " Spy Smart Meters" somewhere? <S> Note that for items 1 and 2, you should see a voltage drop -- measured at the outlet that the iMac is plugged in to . <S> A drop from 120V to 110V yields roughly a 16% drop in incandescent brightness. <S> A drop from 120V to 100V, causes about a 31% drop in brightness. <S> What iMac model is it? <S> What specs does it list for power? <S> iMacs usually run at about 80W to 200W, but I read once that they can have short, peak draws of 1000W. <S> A surge protector will do nothing in this case, but a battery backup with brown-out protection will protect the computer and <S> may lesson the flickering. <S> If it is a "hot fault" type problem, there is a very real danger of fire. <S> A fuse or circuit breaker cannot guard against such faults either, but you should immediately verify that the circuit breakers are properly sized for the wire gauge(s) of each circuit (the smallest wire gauge, if more than one was used). <A> I've experience something similar, the chandelier in my stairway was on a dimmer and it would flicker constantly. <S> When I replaced the dimmer, everything appeared to be fine, but that was only because I moved my computer setup to a separate breaker while I had the power shutoff to the original circuit. <S> I realized it was the computer setup, but before I went through the effort of running a new circuit, the power supply on my home office server bit the dust. <S> I took the opportunity to do an upgrade, including a new power supply, and haven't had any flickering issues since. <S> Moral of the story: if you have dimmers on the lights, it doesn't have to be a power surge or bad wiring. <S> All it takes is some noise on the circuit to cause a flicker because of how the dimmers work. <S> I'd try replacing the power supply in the computer and see if that solves it, since it would likely be cheaper than an electrician <S> and it never hurts to have a spare power supply. <A> This is probably a question better suited for the Electrical Engineering forum (http://electronics.stackexchange.com/?as=1 ) because it has to do with a computer power supply, which is a pretty complicated device. <S> Computer power supplies can create noise on the line, and they can tell you much more about that. <S> It has to do with harmonic distortion, power factor, etc. <S> I have to be out the door in 10 minutes, but this article looks pretty good: http://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/pq/issues.html
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A bad junction somewhere, or a physically damaged wire, or wires that are too small for the current draw (and the fuse or circuit breaker!). A few things that can cause this: Faulty iMac supply.
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Is this fluorescent light fixture a major electrical problem / fire hazard? (I am a new homeowner.) I went to replace a some fluorescent tubes that looked like they burned out, but after disassembling it a little to get the tubes out, I saw something a little alarming: There was a black sticky substance on the inside cover of the housing: Picture #1 of what looks like a "burned" wire and "melted" electrical tape Picture #2 of the same Closeup of the "melted" electrical tape: So, my questions are: What happened here? Were things about to catch fire? Now that the fluorescent tubes are out is it safe, since the circuit is not complete? Is this something I can fix, keeping in mind that I have no experience with anything electrical? If so, how do I fix it? EDIT: The electrical tape was not melted, and the wire was not burned. The culprit was indeed the ballast. Here are the leaks: Thanks, lqlarry! <Q> (Since I cannot see the whole fixture I'm just guessing about that.) <S> but I really would not touch it. <S> I doubt anything was catching fire, but when it happened there would have be smoke and a really stinky smell. <S> If you smell the ballast you will see what I mean. <S> I would disconnect the power or turn the switch off. <S> The ballast has a thermal cut-off that would probably de-energize the ballast, but it still has power. <S> It can be fixed, but for a DIY'er it is easier to change the whole fixture. <S> To fix it you would have to wire in a new ballast and that would be 8 wires, where a new fixture would be only 3, a hot, neutral and ground. <S> If you do it yourself, make sure you turn the breaker off before taking the old fixture out. <S> Out of the ceiling will be either a black or red, a white and a green ground. <S> A new fixture would show you exactly where to put the wires. <S> If you have a friend that knows how to do this then get your friend to show you how so you can see what it takes. <A> The ballast failed because of arcing caused by an incorrect connection. <S> IE your elecrical tape connection was loose and over time the small contact points increased in resistance. <S> This could have been prevented by following code and installing a wire nut instead of twisting the wires together and taping them. <A> There's nothing wrong with the fixture. <S> I retrofit fixtures like this all the time. <S> In fact, a good, stout old fluorescent fixture is better than any of the new replacements made out of flimsy sheetmetal. <S> However, the Ballast has failed. <S> And this is time for an upgrade anyway. <S> This is an old "magnetic" ballast, which works with specialized transformers. <S> To keep the transformers from buzzing, they fill the ballast with tar. <S> The aging transformers run hotter, melting the tar until it leaks out. <S> There's nothing wrong with the wires, they were just dipped in tar. <S> You can clean it off the wires with paint thinner and patience if you really want to. <S> Other than that, you can disregard the tar. <S> Decide what kind of fluorescent tube you want to use going forward: <S> Color quality is absolutely superb, as high as 98 CRI, because the gov't outlawed all low-color-quality tubes in an attempt to run T12 off the market. <S> Fluorescent T8 is the latest of fluorescents and performs well <S> and CRI is also top notch (90-98). <S> I recommend rapid -start or programmed -start ballasts as the wiring will match. <S> Instant-starts will be confusing to wire. <S> Direct-wire LED is the up-and-comer, but CRI isn't quite as good (typically 70-80 unless you are a very finicky buyer). <S> Do not use plug-and-play LED. <S> Those require ballasts and yours is dead. <S> Historic fluorescent tubes have a CRI around 35. <S> Once you decide on the tubes you want, pick the ballast you need (none for direct-wire LED, T8 ballast for T8 tubes, T12 ballast for T12 tubes). <S> Don't be surprised when the new ballast is a feather compared to the old one. <S> Turn off the circuit, cut the wires right at the chassis of the old ballast, remove the old ballast and fit the new one. <S> We describe wiring diagrams in other questions on this site. <S> Then fit the new tubes that match the ballast, and enjoy the new light!
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You didn't show the ballast, (the black boxy thing with all the wires coming out of it in the fixture) so my guess is that it went bad and some of the potting insulation around the coils of the ballast over heated and melted. It looks like the black on the cover is a tar type residue It is sticky and a mess to get off. But back to the fire, I'm sure this has caused fires in a very few cases. What you have now, fluorescent T12, is obsolete and tubes may become scarce. The "electrical tape splice" is terrible workmanship and you will be replacing it with a proper splice - a blue or orange wire-nut should suffice.
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What type of underlayment should I use for an above ground pool? I recently bought a non-inflatable, steel frame above ground pool (12 ft diameter, 3 ft depth). I want to set it up on a slab of concrete, but I have a couple of concerns about the wear on the bottom liner of my pool: Joints in my concrete may stretch the liner to fill the joints (under water pressure) Roughness of my concrete may scratch the liner Are these valid concerns? If so, what type of underlayment should I use? I'm considering 1/2" thick foam insulation, but I'm not sure if that minds getting wet or not. Also, I'm not sure if I can put the legs of my pool on top of it without the legs tearing through over time. Any suggestions? <Q> Per request, I'll expand my comment into an answer: as for the joints in the concrete, I'd use polymeric sand (typically used for locking pavers). <S> Some options: roofing felt (tar paper). <S> Ice and Shield roofing membrane rubber pond liner epoxy (if it's not terribly rough, a few coats of epoxy concrete sealer might smooth it out) <A> We installed an 18' diameter pool on top of a concrete pad using the 2' x 2' interlocking square foam pieces between the pool and the concrete. <S> It feels great underfoot and the pool has been going strong for 4 years now. <A> You could use some foam underlayment like used for laminate flooring. <S> It is about 3/16 inch thick, cheap and you can use typar or packing tape to hold the seams. <S> The same train of thought, how about blue vinyl siding insulation. <S> It is 1/4 " thick, 4 ft wide and folds out to about 16 feet. <S> Also pretty cheap. <A> Bought 16' last year and bedded it on sand on 2x2 slabs... <S> Worked very well <S> but at the end of the year a ton of dry sand was a ton and a half of wet sand... <S> Plus kids run it into the house on their wet feet... <S> This year I was contemplating 2" polystyrene <S> but it's working out at £96... <S> So I'm now thinking old carpet that can be dumped or dried out to use again... <S> The sand is good but hard work tidying up after when wet... <A> I have been setting up pools in the same area in my yard for about 6 years now. <S> I have found that play sand is the best under lament for the liner. <S> Now I went from a 18 foot to a 22 foot Coleman and need to expand the circumference extremely. <S> I will let you folks know how it turns out. <S> I am an extreme leveler and compactor to be sure to protect my investment, so I do not rush to set these pools up before the ground is perfectly level, including riser pole locations, and tamped (packed) with water added between courses, add the utmost thin layer of play sand after all rocks and pebbles are removed from site. <S> Protect your family, level and invest in play sand very thin layer upon extremely packed sand (clay) before setting up the pool.
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Then the key is to create some sort of smooth pad in between the concrete and the bottom of the pool.
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How to remove rusted tank bolts We have a really old toilet in one of our bathrooms which has started to leak around the tank bolts. I was going to replace the bolts and washers but the nuts are completely seized and rusted to the bolts. Due to placement I can only get about a 1" draw on a hack saw (which doesn't really cut well) so I can't easily cut them that way. How can these be removed without shattering the tank? <Q> I would try a Dremel type tool with an abrasive cutoff wheel. <S> Of course you need to be careful of the porcelain. <S> I've cut many screws and bolts this way. <S> If you can't cut the bolt, you may be able to cut the nut, in the direction of the bolt's axis, then pry the nut apart at the cut line. <A> A great tool for this purpose and any similar close work is a ultrasonic multitool such as a Fein, Rockwell etc. <S> Lots of tool companies are making them now. <S> the other tool would be a hacksaw blade holder. <S> It is not a full framed hacksaw, rather a handle that holds the blade and can get into tight places. <S> Remember, save yourself a lot of frustration and use a good quality sharp blade, not a dime store, discount blade. https://web.archive.org/web/20130127022010/http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/industry-news.asp?articleID=1495690§ionID=1493 <A> I recommend an old-fashioned mechanic's nutcracker. <S> Search the net for "mechanics' nutcracker tool", AKA "Mechanics' Nut Splitter". <S> Many tool vendors make these. <S> These will split a seized nut across the flats, by hand tightening a screw that drives a hardened wedge gizmo. <S> Works in places not accessible to other tools, like saws or grinders. <S> It will destroy the nut, but sometimes releases the bolt without inflicting additional damage on the seized threads. <S> Then, if possible, replace with new nuts and bolts of solid brass or stainless steel. <S> The additional cost is trivial. <S> However, it is not easy to find solid brass or stainless steel bolts, to fit toilets. <S> It's a mystery to me, why toilet manufacturers continue to install and sell replacement hardware made of steel that is only brass PLATED, which will eventually rust up, leak, and seize. <S> Possibly, to create work for plumbers. <S> More likely, to sell more new toilets, when perfectly good but leaky toilets get broken in efforts to remove corroded bolts with hammer blows, hacksaws, electric vibrating saws, or electric grinding wheels. <S> Doze strategies are just too risky! <A> Everything I've read seem to show the nut splitter is a good way, though I'm not sure how to use it. <S> I also heard you can drill the bolt with a 1/16 drill bit. <S> I would recommend replacing with plastic screws & bolts. <S> Which I will do.(Oddly one toilet how metal screws & plastic bolts & it still rusted on.)
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First, try an old-fashioned mechanic's nutcracker
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How easy is it to fit a garage door opener? My wife is desperate to have a garage door opener, and she's found this kit at B&Q. Can anyone advise on how easy/straightforward these things are to install? It'll be me (and most likely my Dad) installing it, and I think between us we're reasonably capable, but I haven't done anything of this kind of scale before, and I imagine if it comes down and whacks my wife's new car it'll be my fault... Also, regarding the electrics is it something I need an electrician to come and wire up for me? I have two fluorescent tubes in the garage ceiling, but I'm guessing if I run a spur from them down to the GDO, we'll need to leave the lights on all the time? (I'm in the UK if that makes a difference) <Q> If you're not comfortable with running electricity in a safe manner, then yes, you should have an electrician install an outlet in the ceiling near where you intend to install the opener. <S> You can run a split off the line that feeds the lights, but you do need to run the opener on an always-on circuit, so you have to know what you're doing there. <S> As for the installation itself, as long as you're reasonably handy, know how to find proper structural supports <S> (ie: the framing), the installation should not be very difficult. <S> Obviously the install will vary based on the model but generally you'll install a mounting brace of some kind, which needs to be VERY securely attached to the structure of your garage (not just the drywall - but INTO the joists/studs). <S> The rest should be pretty simple as long as you read the directions carefully and plan it all out before you actually start. <A> Just make sure the unit is securely fixed to a solid mount not just to the plaster. <S> Sometimes it can be a bit tricky if the headroom above the door is very limited. <S> As far as the electrical slide I'm not an electrician but running a gpo of a light circuit is a defiant no no in Australia. <S> Maybe someone with electrical background could clarify this for uk? <A> I've installed two garage door openers in my time; the first one was installed immediately after I moved into my new house at age 24, and was one of the first home improvement projects I ever did. <S> I did have the advantage of already having an outlet there; As others have said, you'll need to have either an electrician or a handy friend run the wire. <S> Garages are usually pretty easy to wire as the cables and whatnot are usually accessible.
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Fairly simple to install if you follow the instructions.
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How to cut off an old swing to get rid of it I need to dispose of an old swing in my yard. Problem is some screws are so rusty they can't be unscrewed and the whole swing wont's pass the door. Is there any simple way to cut this thing into a few pieces ? I guess the rods are hollow so perhaps it's not too hard. Any suggestion would be welcome. <Q> You have numerous options: <S> Drill out the screws with a drill bit larger than the screw diameter. <S> Use a hand hack saw to cut it into manageable pieces. <S> Beat it into submission with a sledge hammer until it folds and bends and breaks (get medieval on it!) <S> My recommendation would be the sawzall with a new 10" demolition blade. <S> You can probably have it cut into pieces in 10 minutes that way with little sweat. <S> If you don't own a recipricating saw, you can rent one at your local tool rental place or big box hardware store (Lowes, Menards, Home Depot, etc) <S> edit: Like SteveR says...make sure to wear your safety gear! <A> You can get a metal cutting abrasive wheel to fit your circular saw. <S> Just be careful, it will cut like butter through the pipes. <S> I would also recommend wearing safety glasses, gloves. <A> I simply folded mine in on itself bending the tubes, but you could just use a hacksaw,angle grinder or reciprocating saw to cut the tubes up or to cut the rusted screws. <A> If you have the right tools, then almost anything is possible. <S> Without the right tools, it takes elbow grease, if it is even possible. <S> So I'd use my reciprocating saw, with a metal cutting blade in it. <S> Lacking that, I might pull out an angle grinder, or an air powered cutoff tool. <S> You need not even cut the pieces completely through. <S> Just cut it most of the way, and then bend it a few times to fatigue the stub of metal that remains. <S> It will break then easily. <S> Lacking any of that, now I'd be left with a hacksaw, and elbow grease. <S> Use a good blade and it will cut faster. <S> You can either cut the tubing into pieces, or cut away the screws that hold it together. <S> Sometimes one or the other is easier. <S> And sometimes disposal companies don't like to take long sections. <S> (Ours won't take anything longer than a few feet.) <S> No matter what you do, wear good strong gloves, as old rusty pieces of metal will be hard on hands that are not accustomed to such work. <S> Safety glasses are a good thing too, as pieces of flying rusty metal are not good for your eyes. <S> Lacking even that, I'd have no choice but to pay someone else to take it away, or let it rust away in place. <S> A hundred years from now, and it will be mostly gone on its own. <S> Note that if you can easily enough bring the steel to a salvage yard, you may even salvage a few dollars from the scrap.
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Use a reciprocating saw - a "Sawzall" to cut it into manageable pieces.
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How should I wire a GFCI outlet and a switch to isolate the switch but provide GFCI protection further in the series? I am replacing the outlets for my garbage disposal/dishwasher circuit in my kitchen. Currently on that breaker there is one non-GFCI outlet with a pigtailed switch controlling the garbage disposal and one non-switched GFCI outlet controlling the dishwasher. The garbage disposal outlet is currently not in series with the dishwasher outlet, but is "upstream" of it in relation to current coming from the breaker box. I want to install GFCI protection for both of these outlets. I would also like to replace the current GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher with a normal outlet, so that if it trips, I won't have to remove the dishwasher to reset the outlet. Ideally, I would like to install a GFCI outlet for the current garbage disposal outlet, and have it protect both the garbage disposal and dishwasher outlets. However, there is a catch with this plan. I still need the garbage disposal outlet to be switch-activated, but I do not want that switch to also activate the dishwasher outlet. In short, how can I wire my new outlets to achieve these goals: GFCI protection for both outlets. No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal). The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet. I've thought about this for several days, and it may be impossible in my current wiring situation. If it is, what other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above? Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit? Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls? Edit: Here is a diagram of the current wiring situation. <Q> First things first, here's a link to Leviton's 7299 combination switch & GFCI instruction sheet. <S> For a tamper proof it will be a T7299. <S> Hubbell, GE or Cooper are just as good and make the same. <S> GFCI protection for both outlets. <S> Follow the instructions that come with the GFCI. <S> There are leads for the switch and lugs for the GFCI and also the feedthru-protection of another receptacle. <S> No GFCI outlet behind the dishwasher (for easy resetting without dishwasher removal). <S> This is accomplished by feeding the dishwasher receptacle using the GFCI feedthru-protection lugs. <S> The switch only toggling the garbage disposal outlet and not the dishwasher outlet. <S> Am I going to need to run some more wire through the walls? <S> Should I investigate adding a GFCI breaker for that circuit? <S> The breaker will cost a lot more than the combo switch & GFCI. <S> Also, if the GFCI trips then you have to go to the breaker to reset it. <S> At least with the GFCI receptacle feeding your dishwasher receptacle, you will be closer. <S> What other solutions would achieve the same effect as listed above? <S> I think this is the way to go, so you don't have to pull your dishwasher out to reset the GFCI. <S> The nice thing about this site is some of the people either can think out of the box or have faced this problem before. <A> It seems to me that Leviton's switch/GFI combo would be perfect if there's already a toggle switch installed for the dishwasher. <S> A wiring diagram ( https://www.do-it-yourself-help.com/gfci-outlet-switch-wiring.html ) explains the installation except it uses a disposer in the illustration. <S> It would involve replacing the existing switch with this unit. <S> Leviton GFSW1-W Self-Test SmartlockPro Slim GFCI Combination Switch. <A> The circuit should be wired like this. <S> You need two receptacles to get the benefit of the GFCI for both the dishwasher and garbage disposal. <A> The right duplex outlet has the brass tab removed and the two brass hot screws are NOT connected together when the tab is removed. <S> Only the bottom outlet 'half' is switched. <S> The top half is a normal outlet that is not switched. <S> Forget all those three wires to the left of the switch. <S> They are not needed. <S> That red wire supply wire is bogus and is not needed. <S> The gray wire should go down to the lower black GFCI load brass terminal hot by the words, "Load side of outlet". <S> The switch is fine, but needs a pigtail to the top dishwasher brass terminal as stated above. <S> That makes the DW always hot, unless the GFCI trips. <S> The switch only interrupts the black wire hot to the disposal unit. <S> Any GFCI trip from either appliance, turns off both appliances. <S> The dishwasher as shown has no GFCI protection. <S> However, a GFCI trip will open the white neutral wire inside the GFCI. <S> Therefore, the DW will be turned off by a lack of white wire continuity. <S> NOT good. <S> To permanently power the DW independently of any GFCI activity, you need to split the tab on the duplex outlet white silver terminal side also. <S> The GFCI white feeder is fine for the G.D., but you will need to run a pigtail from the top outlet half white silver terminal to the orange dot shown point on the gray "Incoming 120V Power supply". <S> My main point is that nobody stated how the pre-scored split tab was broken off, how it worked, and that no left wire bundle or red wire to the DW was needed.
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This is accomplished by using the leads on the combo switch & GFCI to feed the garbage disposal. If there are no wires between the combo switch & GFCI then you will have to pull some romex between the two. The only reason I give Leviton is because I know the part number. To be protected when you touch the garbage disposal and/or the dishwasher, you need to forget the gray wire under the word "Dishwasher" where it is connected to the top black hot line.
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Drywall screws for subfloor Are drywall screws suitable for attaching a 3/4" tongue-and-groove plywood subfloor? In this case, joists are 16" O.C. and no glue will be used. <Q> By "drywall screws", I think you are meaning 1 5/8" blued screws. <S> I do not think that they would be a good choice. <S> We usually shoot down plywood subflooring with 2 1/2" to 3" ring shank nails, however 2" to 2 1/2" decking screws work well, but just a lot more work. <S> I would encourage you to use a little adhesive on top of the floor joists or strips of felt paper or Grace ice/water shield to avoid any squeaks later on. <A> I wouldn't. <S> Drywall screws should only be used for drywall, and a temporary coat hanger. <S> You want more strength and need less space for the threads to secure the subfloor. <A> Nooooo, don't, over time they break. <S> Floors bounce over joist and screws heads that are holding plywoods or OSB's are pulled, worst, the shear stress of wood and joist expansion over seasons will break them. <S> I found that after removing a carpet and saw hundreds of heads screws not talking about all squeakings. <S> Use proper floor screws, the savings can't justify the time spent to correct that, if you ever can.
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The drywall screws have a lot of thread to hold the drywall itself, but have very little shear strength.
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Replacing a hot water heater: tank or tankless? We've lived in this house for 20 years and the hot water heater (tank style) was 2 years old, as was the rest of the house, when we moved in. In the last year or two we've started to have occasions when we run out of hot water. At first we put it down to volume - we have an 18 yo and a 22 yo, so they have showers, and they have friends over, and some mornings we're trying to accomodate 4 or 5 showers. But now it's two showers,or one shower and a load of laundry, and suddenly there's no hot water for dishes. Having read that hot water heaters usually last 10 years, I guess we need to replace this one. We're considering tankless, but: We're on a well. The water is hard (the kettle scales a lot) and cold We have electric heat Our service is 200 A In the winter, we set the heat back overnight so the house is cool, and warm it up in the morning (right around when showers would be happening) Here in Ontario, electricity is charged at time-sensitive rates We don't have natural gas available (we live in the middle of nowhere) We don't have a propane tank already and don't want one Is tankless still a sensible option for us? Roughly how much more do they cost - given that we're not taking out a working tank and replacing it just for energy savings, but instead have to buy a new heater, is it not too bad? And finally, would it be worth it to get someone to clean/flush/repair in some way our 20 year old heater, that we have never done anything to, in order to save the cost of replacing it? <Q> On my heater, when the lower element burned out, we had a reduced quantity of hot water (basically the top half of the tank). <S> Replacing an element is much cheaper than a whole tank. <S> Response to comment: I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you are knowledgeable and comfortable with electrical work. <S> That said, I checked mine with an ohmmeter. <S> This page has more details: http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html <A> With the water heater that old its probably not worth the money to flush it. <S> Especially since it hasn't been maintained over the years. <A> Without natural gas or propane, your only source of heat is electricity. <S> Electric tankless water heaters would probably require a new circuit to be run. <S> Here's a table of typical power and wire requirements: http://www.rheem.com/documents/rte-13-tankless-electric-spec-sheet <S> The smallest unit they recommend for a shower is the RTE13 which takes 13 KW or 54A@240V. <S> This requires #6 wire. <S> If your incoming temp is 40F and desired out temp is 110F, you need 70F of temp rise and the RTE13 will provide 1.27 GPM. <S> Many people think they want tankless because the mfg tell them tankless is more efficient. <S> There is some truth to this for gas fired water heaters but in the case of electric water heaters, the difference in efficiency is very small. <A> You might want to investigate an oil fired water heater. <S> I have owned one mfg'd by Bosch; it works well: very quick recovery, long life ( <S> 15 yrs so far), has replaceable anode elements for rust control. <S> They are expensive initally, however the quality is high.
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I would check the operation of the heating elements.
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Vampire Power Draw and Power Strips Can a standard power strip (when switched off) stop vampire power draw from electronics?? I'd rather not buy one of those new-fangled "smart" power strips for $30 - $40 if a standard one will do -- I don't have any problem flicking the switch. I gave my father a Belkin watt-meter for Christmas, but it's about 650 miles away so I can't personally test it myself. The cable modem, router and cable box will stay on to maintain wifi and cable programming guide. I'm mostly interested in completely shutting down other home theater equipment that isn't in use 90% of the day. <Q> It's just as good as unplugging the appliance and one reason why power-strips are made in the first place. <A> By "vampire draw" I assume you mean the draw that certain electronics continue to have when "turned off", because really they're in a "low-power standby" that maintains things like satellite/WiFi hookups, software update monitoring, quick-start features, etc etc etc. <S> In these cases, yes, putting these devices on any power strip with a simple on-off switch and turning that switch off is the same as unplugging the devices from the wall; the switch will completely disconnect the "hot" and will not allow current to flow. <S> This can be useful when going on vacation (but if you value those devices I'd really just unplug them, or their power strip, from the wall completely). <S> Understand <S> this may mean that your devices take a while to power up after you turn the switch back on. <S> The DVR/receiver for my dish TV system can take up to five minutes to reestablish the satellite connection after power to the DVR is cut (unplug, power failure). <S> That's the main one, but others of my home entertainment devices take longer to start up after a power loss. <S> Basically what you have in your home theater nowadays is a bunch of computers, and when you "turn them off" you're really putting them in a "sleep" mode from which they can return to "on" much faster. <S> Turn them all the way off by unplugging them, and then they have to go through the full "bootup" process. <A> If you turn it off and hit allows no power to go thru it then <S> yes, it will stop it. <S> Worst case scenario you can always unplug the strip. <S> I guarantee that will stop it. <S> That of garlic.
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Yes, every "standard" (non UPS, non "smart") power strip that you buy, will stop that "vampire draw" when it is switched off.
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How much can you do as a homeowner in Texas without requiring a permit/inspections? Backstory: we recently added some furniture to a previously-unused room to make it a quickie guest bedroom for some upcoming family visits. On a whim, I got my electrical tester and plugged it in to a bedside outlet to make sure it worked properly. "Open Ground". Goodie. Since I had to open the boxes up anyway, I decided to bite the bullet and replace the outlets in the room with TR. The first outlet (the one with the ground issue) had very little slack, but other than that the wires (including the ground) were all present and seemed to be in good condition. Then I opened up the second box (which got the line from the service panel and daisy-chained a runner out to the one with the ground issue), and found, to my horror, that whomever had last wired this outlet had not only disconnected the ground on the runner to the other outlet, but had cut it off at the jacket . HUUUUUGE no-no. Luckily, they'd made another more minor boo-boo, and there was roughly two inches of outer insulation on the wire in the box (from what I remember of HoH, electricians are supposed to leave a max of only 1/4" of outer insulation in a wallbox), so I was able to cut the jacket back and expose enough bare wire to get a couple good twists around the ground on the service side, making the electrical in the room safe to use. I figure this hack job can't have been done by the original homebuilders; a lot of things in this house have been worked on by the son of the original homeowners, and virtually all of them have had pretty obvious defects in the workmanship. The wiring problems, at least, I can clean up as I find them, but this guy has renovated bathrooms, framed out a loft space into an enclosed room, installed a spa, and has probably touched more of this house than I know. My questions to the board are: Would this guy, not being the homeowner himself, be required to be licensed in Texas and to pull permits for this kind of electrical work (running subpanels, fishing new wire, installing wallboxes)? I know in the legal world, you can represent yourself, but if you don't then the person who represents you must be a member of the bar. I wonder if the same applies to home construction. In a similar vein, would the guy have been required to get the work inspected? If something defective in the house causes a real problem before I catch it, do I have any recourse against him, or against the original homeowners who let this hack work on their house? <Q> For questions one and two: Legally, it's up to local code. <S> I'm not up on code in Texas. <S> If it's a structural change (new walls, new foundation, new electrical circuits etc.) <S> It typically requires a permit and inspection. <S> This is common--even if you hire a contractor. <S> Alas, just because you hire a contractor does not mean that a) they will pull permits voluntarily or b) actually do things right anyways. <S> I've done work as a homeowner with and without permits <S> and I'm still on the fence about it. <S> I appreciate what permits are supposed to do, but have also had to deal with some very backwards and out of date inspectors. <S> I can see why people skip the permit step at times. <S> Sometimes it's to cut corners, but, ironically, I think sometimes it's <S> so they can be left alone to do the job right rather than what the inspector wants to see. <S> ;) <S> As for question 3, you'll have to seek out a lawyer for that. <A> Even if that guys poor workmanship causes your house to burn down, I think I would pretty hard to prove that he or someone else caused the problem. <A> Was he required to pull a permit? <S> Maybe, depends on your local laws. <S> Is he required to be licensed? <S> It's likely, but again depends on your local laws (and other factors such as union presence in the area, but that's another post entirely). <S> Should the work have been inspected? <S> Most likely, but only if they pulled the proper permits. <S> If his work causes a problem, do you have any recourse? <S> If he was licensed and had permits for the work, maybe. <S> If he was not licensed and no permits were pulled, you'd have to prove he did the work and not you. <S> In this case it's not likely you'll have any recourse. <S> In theory all work done in a residence should be done by a well qualified professional (who does outstanding work and knows all the rules and regulations of the profession), with proper paperwork. <S> In reality. <S> There aren't people walking around making sure nobody is mucking about in there own homes, so this type of work is often done by any Tom, Dick, and Harry with a screw driver. <S> If this wasn't the case, DIY.StackExchange would not exist.
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Granted, just because something requires a permit, it doesn't mean one was pulled. But where I've lived, it's generally acceptable for homeowners to do most work themselves.
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How can I reconnect home ethernet that has been terminated outside? I recently moved into a newly re-wired house where the electrician terminated the ethernet wiring outside of the house. Wires are coiled/zip tied into a box on the exterior wall. The same box that the cable company patches their coax into. What is the best way to activate this wiring? There isn't currently power available outside, so patching them all into a switch seems like it is going to be a, well, challenge... :-) <Q> To activate it you will need to create a network with a hub, router or switch. <S> If you are adding broadband Internet access, you will need a broadband router which will share Internet access with the network. <S> Only thing is, the Ethernet cables should be terminated inside the house (unless you are planning to share your network outside the house). <S> Home networking equipment is for indoor use only. <S> This solves the issue with not having an electrical outlet. <A> I don't think anyone makes hubs or switches that run directly off POE (they usually inject POE, rather than use it). <S> You could get a POE injector ( <S> a single-port isn't that much money) and put it inside the house (preferably on the shortest cable run out to the box) and then a POE adapter that you could run your hub or switch off of. <S> How big is the enclosure this stuff goes into? <S> Because this wiring job means that you're gonna need a fairly large enclosure in order to fit all this stuff in there. <S> Is there any chance that what you are seeing is actually phone wires outside, and the ethernet is terminated somewhere hidden in the house? <S> (I know, I know, no it isn't, but I have to ask). <S> Did you pay for this wiring job? <S> Because frankly this isn't reasonable. <S> I could see having run one out from somewhere inside (like you might do for land-line phone service), but to terminate all the ethernet outside is just kinda stupid. <S> If it was on your nickle, try to get the guy to fix it for free - <S> what he/she did isn't right, and you shouldn't have to pay for it. <A> It sounds like you have several runs of Cat5 coming out of your house into a box. <S> Those runs originate in several rooms of the house, like the living room, bedrooms, etc. <S> So, this is properly wired except for where the wiring closet is supposed to be. <S> If that's not correct, ignore the following... <S> My recommendation is to (briefly) pretend this was done correctly. <S> etc INSIDE. <S> Once that's done, you'll need to connect each of the original wires to the switches, so run cable back to the box outside, and install a small patch panel. <S> This will minimize the amount of hardware outdoors, and in that tiny service box. <S> But that could be done over time later, if needed. <S> Also, anything that can be wireless reduces the need for cable. <S> For simple, cheap solutions, this could cost less than $50 (cheap patch panel, and several runs of 6' Cat5 just to go through the wall to a wiring closet immediately opposite the exterior box). <S> Odds are you can't get a full panel which would fit in the service box, so look for something you can cannibalize 4-6 port segments out of and mount some other way. <S> For that matter, if it's just a few wires, use a few unsupported keystone jacks and call it a day. <S> ^_^ <S> Finally, I would also recommend you move the cable box about 1.5 feet sideways, and put your own box in this location on the exterior wall. <S> Service providers sometimes get upset if you're poking around in their boxes <S> and you'll definitely butt heads if they want to lock the box to prevent you from tampering, and you want to lock the box to prevent random people from stealing hardwired internet from you. <S> Better to have distinct work areas.
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Build a proper wiring closet inside the house somewhere, forward whatever your internet provider gives you to that wiring closet, place all the routers/switches/ I would encourage you to re-wire completely as much as possible, so it doesn't loop back outside.
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What would cause air to be pushed into pipes from a well tank? The faucets have been hissing of air for the passed few months, and it has been getting progressively worse. It is usually worse in the morning when we get up and in the evening when we get home. We have a Well Mate VM series tank. At first I thought maybe the bladder failed and the air was coming from the other side of the bladder. So I knocked on the tank and it sounds hollow on top to me. Then I thought the air bubbles were coalescing at nearby high point during lack of use. Then the other day I was near the tank when I heard the air leave the tank and travel through the pipes. Any ideas what may be causing this? <Q> It's possible <S> it's the pressure tank. <S> To check the pre-charge, turn the pump off, and then open a faucet to let all the water out. <S> Check the pressure in the tank using a tire pressure gauge <S> (there is a valve on the top). <S> This should be 2-10 PSI below the "start" pressure of the pump: eg, if your pump comes on at 40psi (on at 40/off at 60 is the most common setup), the pressure tank pre-charge should be 30 to 38psi. <S> If it's lower, fill it (and keep your faucet open). <S> If the bladder is broken, you won't be able to fill it <S> and there will be air coming out of the open faucet. <S> It's also possible something is wrong with the check valve and air <S> is getting in the line from the well to the house. <S> To check this, turn the water off to your house (usually there is a valve somewhere after the pressure tank) -- it's essential to isolate the pressure tank from the rest of your house to do this test. <S> Run the pump until the pressure tank is full and it turns off, and then watch the pressure gauge. <S> If it's slowly going down, you are losing water somewhere either due to a break in the pipe, or a broken check valve. <A> Possibly a leak on the suction side of the pump pulling in air. <A> check to see if you have a pipe leaking causing the pump to keep the well drawn all the way down thus sucking air. <S> happened to me. <S> a pvc hose run pipe was separated at the joint. <S> the ground was very wet. <S> dig it up, fixed it, and saved thousands chasing whatever... <A> The pressure tank and water lines get a charge of air every time the pump starts. <S> Last time I had this happen, the barb coupling on top of the submersible pump had a rust hole in it <S> (shallow 32 ft well with black plastic discharge pipe). <A> Our setup has a vertical tank and the input pipe from the wellhead and the line out into the distribution system are both near the bottom of the tank. <S> The contact points assembly was replaced and the check valve was replaced yesterday. <S> Today, the pump operated with greater efficiency, such that air was drawn into the tank, so much so that air began spitting out of the faucets and fixtures indoors and out. <S> Until the leak in the pipe below the wellhead is fixed (pipe replaced), we have to shut down the system and bleed air from the top of the tank. <S> The well casing extends to 170 foot depth.
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Could be a bad foot valve combined with a leak somewhere that is allowing the water on the pump side of the check-valve up top to partially drain out.
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What's a good way to customize or recess a lightswitch? I saw this etsy project: Working Arcade Light Switch And while it's pretty cool, I'm not huge into arcade or fighting games, so I was going to make my own, and change the buttons. How would be a good and easy way to do that? I don't want to make my own switch, but rather, reuse an existing switch. I don't want to modify the internals of a switch, because I want to leave safety mechanisms in tact. My first thought would be to use a "decorative" switch and replace or cover the button mechanism, but the biggest problem with that is that the switch sticks out too far to be easily covered by the wall plate. So, I'm thinking I want to recess the switch somehow, and I might be able to manage something by bending the metal part the screws screw into, but I'm not sure that's a good option, and feels quite hackish. Any suggestions? Update: I think that everyone misunderstands my request? I don't want to open up the light switch. I want to change the appearance of the system. Thought experiment: Let's say I really like chocolate bars, so I want to make a chocolate bar light switch. I want to follow all the UL rules. Glue a plastic chocolate bar to a rocker light switch. I look at it from the front, and it looks great, covered the switch. but I look at it from the side, and I can still see the light switch, I don't like the look of it (because I want to hide the light switch). I measure the amount the chocolate bar sticks above the wall. Let's say that's 1 inch. I take a jig saw, and cut out all the sheet rock that would be covered by the chocolate bar. I remove the switch, electrical box, and move all in-wall wiring aside for the time being. I then remove 1 inch (or the amount discovered in step 2) of the stud the electrical box was attached to, everywhere that is now exposed by the sheet rock. I reattach the electrical box, now 1 inch more recessed than it was before (presume there's still room, because it's a big wall) Re attach the wiring, and put the switch back into the electrical box. Voila, I now have a chocolate bar lightswitch, and it looks the way I want. Did I violate any UL rules? Or otherwise do anything an electrician would say is a bad idea? I don't think so. If so, please let me know which step is wrong. I could do all of this, but step 5 is an annoying step, (as is step 3). Can I avoid any of those steps and recess the light switch in another way? <Q> I would not recommend this. <S> Switches are tested to electrical safety standards which includes making sure they have adequate insulated properties that prevent you the user from getting a shock. <S> They are also designed to drain a short circuit to the earth/ground by cross bonding metal components built inside the switch. <S> Making it a hazard for you and anyone else using said switch. <A> Please do not try to modify an existing switch. <S> This could prove dangerous and a fire hazard. <S> Instead, consider using a flush style rocker switch such as a Pass & Seymore as shown in this link. <S> http://www.legrand.us/dimmers-switches/light-switches.aspx#.T6uHJujPH0c <S> They are available at Lowes and many other retailers. <A> If you really want to do this, you'll probably need to call an electrician and explore some low voltage controls for your lighting. <S> Many wireless options exist, and you could conceivably make them look like an 80's arcade, or the engineering deck of a space ship. <S> What you have to remember is wiring devices must come with a UL rating. <S> If you modify, use or install them in a manner that was not prescribed by the manufacturer, you immediately ruin that rating. <S> That goes for high and low voltage systems, all must be approved. <S> Some, however require only momentary push button switches (like you'd find in arcade games) with a certain voltage / amperage rating. <S> Would anything bad happen if you found an unconventional way of mounting a decora rocker switch so everything lined up just right? <S> Probably not. <S> But I can't advise you that doing so would be a good idea.
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Modifying a switch could invariably invalidate those safety features.
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Do I need a box-spring for my bed? I've moved into a smaller room and would like to maximize my space. I've decided to build a new bed frame, but for that to work how I would like I would need to eliminate my box-spring as it would make the bed too high. I currently have a standard mattress, with a box-spring, on a metal frame. If the new bed frame has a solid enough foundation, could I eliminate the box-spring? <Q> Yes. <S> You can use slats instead of a box-spring. <S> It will be a LITTLE bit stiffer, but it's perfectly fine and you'll love how your bed squeaks less. <S> Here's a pic from an Ikea bed frame assembly guide - just as an example: <A> Box springs help evenly distribute pressure on the mattress not just while laying but also when you're getting on/off the bed resulting in concentrated pressure points. <S> They are for the most part, very firm and yield only the slightest bit. <S> Most box strings don't even consist of springs at all. <S> They normally consist of cheap flexible wood, thin upholstery batting, and cardboard. <S> Without a box spring you run a higher risk of popping a spring in your mattress. <S> The thickness of a box spring is only for decoration while the functional properties could be reduced to a much smaller design. <S> Slats are typically used with mattresses that don't have springs (coils). <S> If you want to go the slat approach and have a mattress with springs, I'd strongly suggest using a thin yet strong sheet like material over the slats. <S> Something like plywood or faux wood paneling. <S> Take these concepts into mind whilst building your new frame and you should be perfectly fine without a traditional box spring. <A> No you don't need one IF you have a foundation for the mattress to lay on, a thick sheet of plywood would do, since that is basically what a box spring us though you bed will lie 4-6 inches lower if you only have a 4 inch typical mattress. <A> I have a friend that has sold furniture for years. <S> He has told me that box springs can change the firmness of a mattress drastically. <A> No one in Europe uses box springs. <S> They use slats or wire mesh, and lay mattress on that. <S> Box springs are just a nest for bugs ! <S> Go and buy a Euro bed at IKEA, less cost, less space, and no bug nest ! <A> My opinion is the best mattress is a quality air mattress, specifically designed for a bed and not the camping-quality air mattress. <S> Only one company that I know if that makes them, but I won't mention the name. <S> You've probably seen the ads. <S> Been using one for over 20 years and it is great. <S> You can adjust the firmness. <S> Doesn't bounce at all. <S> I use a sheet of plywood beneath it vs box springs. <S> No dangerous chemicals as found in some of the "foam" type mattresses. <S> Same firmness after 20 years as on day 1. <S> Only ones that don't like <S> it are the traditional mattress dealers because it takes their business away.
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So, if you want to buy a firmer mattress, just remove the box spring instead.
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How can I mount a tablet on a wall? Expanding my music set-up, I'm planning to mount a tablet in my kitchen mostly as remote-control (for music playing on the server), but as it can also show websites and movies, it might get -sporadically- used as a 'real' screen too. I've done all the things I'm comfortable with (server, networking, audio, etc), but now it's on hold because the current card-board "stand" on the kitchen top just won't do and I'm at a loss on how to mount this on the wall. The possible locations are limited: On a tiled-wall right next to the stove (at eye-height) Behind the stove on a wall, between some racks: there's not enough space for it to be mounted there 'against' the wall, so some sort of arm has to be used I think The tablet's specs are: No mount points/VESA/Screw-points available Weighs about 550 grams Size hxb 21+cm x 16+cm (a couple of mm wider on each side), about 1.5cm thick Some specs I'm thinking of (do DIY-ers also talk " MoSCoW "? :) ) Must-have: Holds the tablet safely Should-have Wires can run from tablet (at least power, maybe audio later) Landscape orientation Could-have Rotation to Portrait Turning (viewing angle) Movement (from/towards you, maybe left/right/up/down etc) I wasn't really sure if this was too hobby-like to be ontopic, but meta seems not to mind , so here we are. <Q> hook and loop tape. <S> adhesive to the tablet. <S> You might get away with adhesive to the wall too, but you might prefer to screw a thin plastic panel to the wall and stick the fuzzy (loop) side of the tape to that for better adhesion. <A> It provides none of the movement <S> features you might like <S> but it is dead simple and if the c-channel is mounted well you should not have to worry about it falling. <S> This might be a problem if you need access to the side of the tablet that is in the channel but <S> holes could be drilled in the c-channel. <A> There are brackets for this type of thing: http://store.apple.com/us/product/H2345ZM/A <S> The technique I like is mounting in a cabinet door: http://mashable.com/2010/05/04/ipad-kitchen-cabinet/ <S> In either case, I wouldn't mount it behind the stove. <S> Bacon grease and touch screens don't mix.
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You could get some aluminum C-channel (available at most hardware stores) and mount it on the wall at the top and bottom and slide the tablet in from the side.
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Spacing for recessed lighting in bedroom Tonight I'm installing recessed lighting in my bedroom and have a question on how to space the cans. The room is 12' x '12. How many cans should I put in the bedroom and how should I space them? <Q> There are a number of variables you need to consider in order to space them correctly. <S> First, how much light do you want? <S> Brighter rooms require more lights. <S> Related to this is the max wattage of your cans. <S> You will need more 35W lights to achieve the same brightness you'd get with 50W cans. <S> What type of spread (angle of light ) do the bulbs you plan on using produce? <S> So in a 12' room you'd probably want two rows of lights. <S> Considering <S> it is a bedroom <S> and you don't need it as bright as a kitchen <S> , you can probably get away with 2 rows of 4 lights for a total of 8. <S> If you are using 50W bulbs then you will have 400W of light in your room. <S> The height of your ceiling also plays a big role. <S> Higher ceilings typically require more cans since the light diffuses more before it hits the floor. <S> I always recommend drawing out your design on graphing paper before you make your first cut. <S> Find out the spread of your light (taking into account the ceiling height), and draw a circle under each can with a protractor. <S> You want the light produced on the floor for each can to slightly overlap another light so that thre are no dead spots. <S> Make sure you check the ceiling joists before you start cutting! <S> I should also mention that if you are installing into an insulated area, make sure you use IC (insulation contact) <S> rated cans! <A> For a bedroom, you probably dont need as much light as you might want in a room where there is more activity going on. <S> So you probably only need about 2 or so lights. <S> However, that might looks a bit odd, not sure where you would place them in a square ceiling. <S> So you best bet might be to use 4 lights, symmetrically placed and centered <S> so it makes a smaller square. <S> Probably a 6x6 with 3' around the outside or perhaps a 5x5 square with 3.5' around the outside. <S> You could even do 4x4, but that might put too much light in the center of the room. <S> With 4 lights though, assuming you use 60W floods, you will certainly want to use a dimmer on that. <A> General answer. <S> See last paragraph for bedroom specific Best <S> I can find for a room of that size <S> is 3-5 feet spacing. <S> and about the same for the distance from the wall. <S> -- Keep in mind that this is for a living space, not a bedroom. <S> Based on a 12x12 Living or Dining room, I'd go with 3 ft spacing, for a total of 9 lights at (3,3),(3,6),(3,9),(6,3),(6,6),(6,9),(9,3),(9,6),(9,9) <S> IFF <S> it's the only light in the room. <S> If it's too bright, reduce the wattage. <S> If you have a large window, or plan on using floor lamps or reading lamps, then I'd reduce it to two rows of three at 4' spacing. <S> Alternatively, you may want to put in extra switches, controlling each row of 3 independently. <S> For a bedroom, I'm going to assume there are reading lamps, and for much of the time you're going to be in bed with the lamp on, and the pot lights off. <S> In this case, I'd go with 4 lights at (4,4),(4,8),(8,4) and (8,8) <S> With the proviso that you don't want a light directly above the head of a sleeping person. <S> Also, put it on a dimmer. <A> If your bedroom has a traditional sliding-door style closet (as opposed to a walk-in, which would have it's own lighting), you may want to put extra lights immediately in front of the closet doors to make it easier to view into the closet. <S> As a bonus, that way someone standing there to pick out clothes isn't casting a shadow on what they're selecting. <S> That provided enough light for the rest of the room in most situations, and reading/desk lamps provided additional lighting when tasks required it. <A> Steven's answer is pretty helpful, but there's some additional useful information on eHow: http://www.ehow.com/how_12018871_calculate-recessed-lighting-spacing.html <S> Consult the recessed lighting units you wish to install to find the “spacing criterion. <S> ” <S> You may find the lighting package labeled with a number and then the initials “SC,” or the spacing criterion may also be called “Space to Mounting Ratio.” <S> This is the ratio for the most distance you want between two recessed lighting units. <S> Measure the distance from the ceiling down to the surface you wish to light -- the floor or a countertop, for example. <S> If you wish to illuminate a countertop 3 feet from the floor and you have 8-foot ceilings, subtract 3 feet from 8 feet to make 5 feet for calculating. <S> Multiply the spacing criterion number by the number of feet. <S> For example, if the spacing criterion number was .5, multiply <S> .5 <S> * 8 = 4 (the spacing between recessed lighting units to illuminate the floor). <S> Multiply <S> .5 <S> * 5 = 2.5 (the spacing between recessed lighting units to illuminate the counter). <A> If you want it bright, then 4 lights (5-6" cans), spaced about 3 feet from each wall. <S> If you want it cozy, then 2 centered 4 feet apart should be adequate. <S> As others have stated, it depends on a lot of factors and taste.
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Bulbs with a wider spread will cover a larger area but light will be more diffused. In fact, in my childhood bedroom (approximately 12x12), the wall switch controlled only two recessed lights in front of the closet door (the type that angled towards the closet). Also take into consideration the position of ceiling joists; this might limit where and how many you can place. If you wish to illuminate the floor and you have 8-foot ceilings, use 8 feet for calculating. It also depends on other factors. The typical rule-of-thumb is 24" from each wall, and then 3-5 feet between cans.
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Solutions for a moist basement? I live close to the water and there is a high water table around my house. Therefore a lot of water vapor passes through the basement walls. I would like to be able to store stuff in my basement and ideally finish it and not have to worry about mold. There are a range of options I have been looking at. Such as sealing the basement walls and floor with water blocking adhesive compound such as Drylok, Thoroseal, Blue Max liquid rubber and Xypex Hi-Dry. I am not sure which product would provide the best seal and longest life span in my situation? I currently have a small dehumidifier in my basement that runs constantly. I don't want to get a bigger unit as this small one is already a big hog on my utility bill. I was thinking of getting an air exchanger that would bring in Fresh air as well as remove humidity and be less costly to run then a dehumidifier. Does anyone have any experience using these to remove humidity from a basement? I found this company EZ Breathe but it looks like they are only installed by professionals. Putting up a vapor barrier such as 6mm polysheathing on over the concrete worries me a little. I would imagine the water would condense on the sheathing and build up between it and the foundation. I also hear that you are supposed to put the vapor barrier infront of any insulation but that doesn't make sense to me since you are going to have the water building up behind the vapor barrier. Putting in French Drains inside or outside is a little to expensive for me right now so that isn't an option. <Q> Is the water table close or higher than your basement slab? <S> If so, not a whole lot you can do to completely stop moisture issues, as that basement was just built in a bad spot. <S> That said, the main solution would be a sump pump and drainage tile system. <S> Any water coming up through the earth dumps into the drainage tile, into the pump well, and gets pumped out. <S> Again, though, if the water table is already higher than the basement slab, that'll be a never ending battle as well. <S> That said, perhaps the issue isn't as much about ground water as you think. <S> Does it get humid in your region? <S> If so, then 'damp' basements are par for the course. <S> Basement walls are usually always going to be cooler than the air, and, a such, will be were condensation forms in a humid environment. <S> To prevent that, you need to a) dehumidify and/or b) insulate the walls. <S> A dehumidifier constantly running tends to be a normal part of any basement in a humid zone, so that's a good start. <S> Insulating with walls with XPS or EPS foam will help too, it'll keep the moist air further away from the cold wall. <S> I can't say if an air exchanger would help or not. <S> If it's including an A/C system, it could help (as the A/C is a dehumidifier) <S> but otherwise I have a hunch you'd just be pumping more humid air into the space. <S> Products like drylock don't do a whole lot. <S> They're not strong enough to prevent hydrostatic water pressure (high water table) and do nothing to prevent condensation. <S> They're a bit of a gimmick. <A> You probably won't like this, but there's only one way to permanently deal with such situations: you have to stop the water before it hits the concrete. <S> I've done this several times with different houses. <S> It isn't so expensive if you do the labour. <S> And the labour need not be onerous -- take the evening time you'd spend on the computer or TV, and instead, dig a few feet closer to the footing. <S> You'll end up with a bone-dry basement, and you'll be in better shape, too! <S> First, dig down to about 6" below the footing. <S> This can and should be done in sections, of perhaps 10' or so. <S> Once you get a section dug out, let the outer wall dry, with the aid of a heater, if necessary. <S> Then on a very hot day, slather black tarry sealer on the wall, and while the tar is hot and sticky, cover it with 6 mil plastic. <S> On the next section, overlap the plastic by a foot or so, being sure to tar the first plastic with the next wall section before covering. <S> Repeat in sections until done. <S> It might take a year and cost $200 in materials. <S> Got kids? <S> Make their allowance contingent on so much digging! <S> Or bite the bullet and hire someone to do it for you. <S> But it's the only way to really get it dry. <A> I wanted to comment <S> but I don't have the rep <S> so:I live in Germany where it rains a lot. <S> Our house is built on clay. <S> The basement used to be really damp - it would run down the walls. <S> So here is what I did: <S> I did this in sections, over several years, when I felt like it, good exercise. <S> This thing did more good than any others. <S> Keep moist air out. <S> This sounds counter-intuitive, but the warm air carries water, comes in and deposits it on your cool walls. <S> You can air in summer in the night, if it gets cooler than inside. <S> Otherwise wait for autumn! <S> Heat the dampest room and leave its door open so moisture will get out and upstairs. <S> I do this in one cellar room with a little fan heater on a timer, 30 min a day. <S> Much cheaper than running the dehumidifier. <S> If you have a utility room for drying stuff, seal it off from the rest with a good door. <S> Have a little window partly open. <S> never hang up washing in the other rooms.
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Make sure the any doors and windows are relatively airtight and don't open them if outside is warmer than inside. If it's ground water, the issue isn't water vapor, but rather just plain water. Dry it from the outside - dig down the outside of the wall, a trench about 60 cm wide, let it dry, paint with bitumen and fill the gap with pebbles so it can dry all the time.
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Circuit breaker trips every couple of weeks I have a 15A circuit breaker in my electrical box tied to the media room. Every couple of weeks, it trips. I bought an amperage/wattage load tester . Readings show 4 - 4.5A total in my media room...way under 15A. I suspect a malfunctioning device. To complicate matters, the tester can only read certain devices. I don't know if I have accurate readings. The tester does not store max load over time. It only gives instantaneous readouts. I can't stare at the tester for weeks hoping for a problem to occur. Losing power to my projector is bad. AFAIK there are no ceiling mount UPS devices either. Is there a tool to help me narrow the problem down to a specific device? <Q> The only interesting information here is how many amps were being pulled on the circuit at the time the breaker popped. <S> Breakers actually trip on heat , and a sign of a malfunctioning breaker is random inexplicable opening (tripping). <S> You could get yourself an Amprobe and watch it while a 'helper' turns things on and off and simulates normal activity in the room to see, however more than likely one of two things is going on <S> : You have a bad breaker, just get it replaced Something (sump pump, maybe?) <S> is also on that circuit, coming on weekly and tripping it <S> So, if you go the Amprobe route, you have to be there just at the right time to catch it. <S> The event causing the breaker to trip might be happening fast enough for the tester you have not to notice it. <S> Replace the breaker (or have it replaced) first and see if the problem goes away. <S> If it doesn't - figure out what's coming on at that interval that might be causing it. <S> If the problem persists and nothing is suspect, have an Electrician take a good look at it, you probably have feeder somewhere that comes into contact with ground randomly. <A> I agree with @Steven. <S> Total up your circuit and see where you stand on amperage if you cannot get an Amp meter. <S> If you can get the wattage of each device on the circuit, then you should be under 1800 watts. <S> Breakers are designed to trip for two reasons, magnetic trips like shorts and thermal trips like the heat produced from over amperage. <S> Magnetics usually trip quick, but not all the time and thermal is delayed, again not all the time. <S> Check your wattage or replace the breaker. <A> 120 watts is roughly equal to 1A. <S> You can go up to 12A or ~1400 <S> Watts on a 15A circuit. <S> A breaker can be used up to 80% of it's rated value. <S> Then think of what appliances are on when the breaker trips, time of day, etc. <S> and see if you can correlate any commons. <S> Measure the current with an Amprobe as Tim suggests, if you can. <S> Depending upon the current of the load, will depend on how fast the breaker trips. <S> You could have a 18A load, and it may take 5-10 minutes or so to trip a 15A breaker. <S> One thing is for sure, you need to find this problem. <S> Repeated overloads will cause the wiring in the circuit to heat up. <S> This can cause expansion and contraction at electrical joints - screws, wire nuts, etc. <S> Once they become loose it creates a high resistance path and that heats up even more. <S> If you can not find the problem, you really need to call in an electrician. <S> This answer shows a graph of how a typical house circuit breaker will react. <S> Notice at ~ 120% of rated load it can take up to 1000 seconds to trip the breaker. <A> While the following maybe more unlikely it would certainly explain a possible trip, You dont know if that particular breaker is a residual current device (RCD) or a GFI/GFCI for those in the states. <S> Computer equipment can be very susceptible to earth/ground leakage which in effect can cause nuisance tripping.
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They are "Time over current" trip devices, meaning the more current the fault is, the faster the breaker will trip. First I would figure out exactly what loads are on the circuit, add the nameplate currents (or wattage) up. Unless you have an older house with breakers that are obsolete, then the breaker should be relatively cheap.
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Why are my wall hooks ending up crooked? I have a power drill and sometimes use it to make holes to put up hooks, etc. in my brick+plaster wall. But no matter how carefully I line the holes up and measure them, the hook always ends up at a crooked angle. My method: Hold the hook against the wall Use a thin pencil to mark the two holes that need to be drilled for one hook Take the hook down Place the drill on the first mark Slowly drill a little way in, until I'm sure the hole is in the right place Drill all the way in, using the drill 'hammer' setting Put a raw plug in the hole, hammering it the last part of the way Place the hook back up, partly screw in one screw, and check that the 2nd mark is in the right place Take the hook down again and drill the second hole. Put the hook up and carefully screw both screws in The hook will be mostly straight right until the last minute, when screwing the screws in for the last few millimetres will cause the hook to skew wildly to one side. Holding the hook firmly in place while screwing can improve it very slightly, but it's still not perfectly vertical. What am I doing wrong? <Q> The screws in your picture have a tapered head that match the holes for the screws, so when they are tightened all the way, it will force the screw into the center of the hole; this is why they are OK until they are tightened. <S> My guess is that your marks or holes are not perfectly in the center. <S> It could also be that you are drilling at an angle. <S> Grab a square and hold it against the wall so you can see what 90 degrees perpendicular looks like - are you drilling on that angle or slightly off? <A> Similar to what Steven has said, the screws have a tapered head. <S> You aren't starting your hole directly in the center of the fixture's hole when drilling. <S> I'd suggest taking an ink pen and wrapping tape around the tip so that it is the thickness of the hole in the hook fixture when marking your drill holes. <S> This ensures your marks are centered in the hole. <S> I'd also suggest starting the hole by hand by pressing the screw into sheetrock ensuring that your pilot hole is aligned correctly. <S> This leaves a nice divot for your drill bit. <S> Good Luck! <A> Sometimes it's the simplest jobs that can be the most difficult. <S> I'm willing to bet that its the summation of tiny errors leading to a visible flaw at the end. <S> The question you want to ask is "How do I mark and drill a hole <S> exactly <S> where I want it to be?" <S> (For a given value of exactly) <S> Even if you're only doing it once, making a jig or a template is essential for precise work. <S> For this particular job, a paper template will probably do. <S> Trace the outline of your hook (and holes) onto a sheet of paper. <S> Now, at your leisure, using compass, straight-edge, GPS, and Lasers, find the center of the holes. <S> Even if you just eyeball it, you're still more accurate than doing it on the wall, as you're working at a desk or table with good lighting and a comfortable working position. <S> Now, photocopy that sucker! <S> Cut it out, tape it to the wall, and start the drill hole with a small nail or even punch it with a nail set. <S> You don't want the drill "walking" away from its start position. <S> Go in with a small bit next. <S> The idea is that the tool will do all the work so that you can concentrate on keeping that drill level, and on center. <S> Go to your 1/4 inch bit for the plugs, and clean out the hole. <S> Remove paper, insert plugs, and you're golden. <S> It may seem like a lot of work, but the results are worth it. <S> 1) <S> Generally, you can't be accurate working vertically, so figure out a way to do the detail work on a flat surface.2) <S> Always start a drill hole with a nail or punch. <S> It will always walk away when you power on the drill. <S> (This is quadruply true on metal or hard plastics.) <A> It sounds like you aren't drilling straight into the wall, but without seeing you in action it's going to be difficult to say for sure, but here are a few things to try: <S> Don't use the hammer setting unless the wall you are drilling into is particularly dense. <S> The extra vibration might be enough to send you off course. <S> Make sure that the drill is perpendicular to the wall both vertically and horizontally. <S> It takes a lot of practice <S> - I'm still getting it wrong!
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Make sure that the drill bit is sharp and the correct one for the material being drilled into. The answer to this question (and many others) is: Make a jig or paper template.
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How can I eliminate play in a water tap? My hot water tap in the bathroom has had half a turn of play for as long as I can remember. That is, after increasing flow it takes half a turn before the flow will start going down again, and vice versa. It's a relatively minor problem, but it's a pet peeve of mine. The cold water tap responds instantly. At one point I had the whole tap replaced for other reasons, and, to my dismay the replacement was exactly the same: perfect on the cold side, half a turn of play on the hot side. I'd had enough recently and bought a spare tap gland at the local hardware store. It is now installed. The amount of play is almost exactly the same as before. I could actually feel it in the gland before installing it; it is wobbly. I'm pretty certain there is nowhere else that the play can be coming from. Is this normal or am I really unlucky with this tap? How can I buy a gland without such wobble in it, like the one I have on the cold side? Please excuse my UK terminology. <Q> From your comment, it sounds like the root issue is the lower water pressure from your hot supply. <S> With lower water pressure, when you only slightly open the valve, there might not be enough pressure and/or flow for the water to overcome the other forces acting against it (gravity, restriction from valve, etc.). <S> Similar to say a garden hose - with low pressure, it might not leak at all, but open the valve up all the way <S> and it starts leaking at certain places (except in this case, the leak is the flow you want). <S> The first thing to check is that the shutoff for your hot water supply is fully open - at the sink, at the tank and anywhere else along the way where there might be a shutoff. <S> If all of the shutoffs are fully open then it could be due to incorrectly sized pipes, mineral build up (depends on type of pipe). <S> Check to see if the pressure is low at any other facuets <S> - this will give you a good idea if its a problem with the plumbing or just that particular fixture. <A> I've had a couple of taps where I've seen something similar, and both cases the cause has been basically very cheap hardware. <S> You don't mention if you replace the taps with exactly the same hardware, but it might be worth a bit extra for peace of mind. <S> If you're purchasing good quality hardware, and still have the problem, then the problem might be else where - check to see if there are any blockages in the pipes, or anything else in the system that could be causing the problem. <S> Do you have an on-demand hot water heater? <S> Any sort of recirculating pump? <A> Based on your reply to my comment, you still are using the old valve seat, the round metal part the gland pushes against to seal off the water flow. <S> It's likely corroded and/or damaged, preventing proper, uniform control of water flow. <S> If you remove your new tap insert and peer into the opening with a torch, you should be able to visually confirm there's an issue with the valve seat. <S> Because of this, there are simple surfacing tools available to refinish the valve seat surface. <S> The tool guide fits where the insert goes. <S> You turn the tool while applying pressure, and the corroded material is cut away, creating a fresh, clean, uniform surface. <S> Before you replace the insert, you should examine the gland, the corroded valve seat may have already damaged the rubber surface, requiring it to be replaced yet again. <S> With a properly surfaced seat and smooth gland, the tap will function like it was new.
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In theory, the valve seat can be removed and replaced, but it is usually so well corroded to the tap base housing that forced removal will likely damage the whole fixture, requiring total replacement.
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How do you calculate if it's worth it to insulate? We live just north of NYC, and the house was built in 1906. We're putting on a new roof and trying to figure out if it's worth it to insulate too. It's a cathedral ceiling on the inside, and we do not have vented soffits right now. The contractor says it might not be worth it since he'd have to vent the soffits etc. <Q> There are other things you can do at the same time to maximize the return on the roof insulation. <S> Reducing the chimney effect from basement to roof-line with proper air sealing will multiply the savings. <S> One caveat: if your roofing contractor does not know if it's worth it, he's the wrong person to be installing insulation. <S> The right insulation, installed properly, is worth it. <S> The wrong insulation installed incorrectly is not worth it, for example, it's easy to make R-19 fiberglass batt insulation insulate as poorly as an R-2. <S> As a rule of thumb, if his prior experience says that customers aren't getting a good payback on insulation, then he or his subcontractor is not insulating properly. <S> You don't want to just "insulate" <S> - you want to get an energy audit and do the kind of insulation and air sealing that's needed for your house in your climate. <S> There are tons of incentive programs in NY state (http://www.dsireusa.org/library/includes/map2.cfm?CurrentPageID=1&State=NY&RE=1&EE=1), as well as special low-interest loans run through the utility companies that you pay via your utility bill - and whose payments are designed not to exceed the amount saved by the efficiency measures you make. <S> There are also federal tax rebates for energy efficiency measures. <S> Find a BPI or RESNET HERS certified auditor to assess your house and help you figure out how to maximize your savings. <S> Between rebates and energy savings, you'll find that insulating is one of the smartest investments you can make for your family. <A> It's not very clear what the assumptions of the model, but I found this tool that makes recommendations based on heating systems, zip code, etc. <S> Taking those factors into account it recommends R38. <S> Just based on zip code it is recommending R49. <S> http://www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html <S> I also learned that you can use dense pack cellulose without having to vent the space since humidity is not a problem because there is no air flow to carry the humidity, so that should reduce the cost. <A> For somewhere that has cold winters and humid warm summers your should be looking to insulate. <S> The cost to heating and cooling a house is greatly effected by how you loose all that heat. <S> Although specifically for your dwelling its not possible for me to say, However on average over multiple dwelling analysis with infra-red heat loss it has been shown that you loose 26% through the roof, 33% through the walls, 18% through the windows, draughts 12%, floors 8% and doors 3% <S> The costs of this add up significantly especially through winter times or in climates that are colder. <S> You can also shove the whole environmental thing in there as well as your going to be using more energy to heat it however most are not to interested in environmental effects. <S> Using insulating foam board followed by fibreglass wool in both the walls and roof along with double or triple glazed windows will dramatically decrease your energy consumption.
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Insulating the roof will be worth it - you will save significantly on heating and cooling, and doing it while the roof is open is the best time.
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What could be causing my water heater inlet pipe to corrode? There is corrosion forming on the inlet and TP valve connections to my water heater; the outlet seems to be fine. More specifically, the nipples are what is corroding. I have read the copper pipe and galvanized steel will cause this, and I assumed this was the issue. Upon further investigation, "Dielectric" is clearly readable on the nipple labels so they are not steel I guess. I thought that these nipples were produced to avoid this exact problem. Why are they still corroding? The inlet nipple has corroded to the point that there is now a tiny drip present. Edited for adding pics below. I am suspecting that maybe the nipple is corroding from the outside? Click any image for full size (8Mpixels) <Q> I'm thinking that the installation is missing this dialectic union . <S> If the dialectic union were used in conjunction with this nipple it would provide electrical isolation from the copper - galvanize connection. <S> This document explains this in better detail. <A> On second review of the photos, I don't think that the corrosion is due to electrolysis. <S> The dielectric nipples should be adequate to prevent that <S> and there is no sign of issues with the hot connection. <S> As for the T&P connection, if the copper drain pipe does not come into contact with anything then there is no closed circuit for electrolysis to take place. <S> It looks more like corrosion due to a small leak over a long period of time. <S> A leak that would not have always been noticeable, but would slowly get worse over time. <S> You can see where the water has been dripping <S> and there is signs of calcium buildup. <S> Like I mentioned in a previous comment, I would inspect the sacrificial anode rod and replace it if needed. <S> As for the cold connection, you could: cut the copper line and unscrew the copper section from the nipple brush the nipple with a steel wire brush to remove the buildup reinstall the copper section using teflon tape and a joint compound on the nipple reconnect the copper line that you cut with a shark bite coupling ora solder coupling if you know how You could do the same with the T&P connection, just cut the vertical down pipe so that you can remove the copper pipe from the T&P and then remove the T&P, clean and reinstall. <S> You mentioned that the tank was installed in 2006, so it would be nearing the end of its life expectancy <S> (most residential warranties are for 5 to 6 years) <S> so I would keep an eye on the tank for any leaks. <A> Leave it alone. <S> The inlet and outlet threads on your water heater are plastic. <S> It's a one time deal, you've got to do it <S> right the first time. <S> Wait until you need to replace the water heater. <S> Use all copper next time. <S> Mineral deposits can be sign of leakage, but sometimes the deposits seal the leak. <A> Looks like it was teflon taped, tightened to tank, then soldered , cooking the upper adapter sealant. <S> I try to prep a soldered piece with a copper extension 2-3 inches long soldered on. <S> When i use a coupling to make final solder connection, I wrap a wet rag on lower parts to keep teflon cool. <S> I would be tempted to try a stainless nipple at tank. <A> "Dielectric nipples" are a marketing term for the most part. <S> They are NOT truly dielectric , because you DO have the dissimilar metals in contact with each other. <S> What these nipples to is prevent the worst EFFECT of having dissimilar pipes in contact, that of the pipe closing off from the INSIDE with corrosion buildup, which you can't see <S> so you don't know it's happening until the water stops flowing. <S> That's because it has a PEX (high temp. <S> plastic) liner on the inside. <S> But because the dissimilar metals are in contact, the corrosion happens on the OUTSIDE, as it is in your case. <S> However, now you can SEE that and replace them when it happens. <S> The only thing that stops the electrical flow is a dielectric UNION that puts a non-conductive material between the metals. <S> Even then, if the water has a lot of dissolved minerals in it, internal corrosion and blockage can still happen because the electrical flow takes place through the water. <S> So the best solution is BOTH the union and the sleeved nipples. <S> Or like I said, when you see the external corrosion, consider it a warning and just replace them. <S> From the photos you posted however, I don't see any kind of union fitting anywhere, so replacing them is going to be difficult. <S> If there isn't one ahead of those pipes somewhere out of the photo, you are going to have to cut or at least de-solder the pipes. <S> Not a great idea for the uninitiated. <S> But if you do, put in a union so you don't have to do it next time, and if you do THAT, make it a dielectric union.
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Your "dialectric" nipple has an ABS plastic coating inside a galvanized steel pipe.
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Inferring wire gauge from cable size Is there any way to infer the gauge of the wires inside an NM cable from the size and shape of the cable? I reckon a round cable is generally -/3 W/G and a flatter cable -/2 W/G, but I do not know how to distinguish 14/2 W/G from 12/2 W/G without readable markings. I am mapping house circuits and have run across some NM cable whose markings have faded into nonexistence or were never present (might be 1980s cable, and I am ignorant of 1980s cable manufacture practices). Some text was embossed into the cable sheathing during manufacture, but the visible run is short and I cannot read the desired information off the cable. I have a bunch of 20A breakers and am concerned the cable running out might be 14/2 W/G rather than 12/2 W/G, which I understand would mean the cable is undersized for the circuit amperage. <Q> I don't think you can safely infer it, but what I would recommend is to find an area in your house that has some cable with slack and the wires exposed - maybe the breaker panel. <S> As @lqarry said, you can use wire strippers to see what gauge the wire fits. <S> Now compare that to the cable in question. <A> Today's manufacturers rules has NM or romex color coded. <S> 10 gauge is orange, 12 gauge is yellow and 14 gauge is white. <S> Inspectors really love this so they don't have the problem you are having. <S> Older wire, you have to get a good light and a magnifying glass. <S> The only thing I can suggest is de-energizing the circuit and using calipers on the wire to compare differences, or using a set of wire strippers designed for solid wire and see how they measure up. <A> Has it not occurred that you can measure the cross sectional area of the copper itself to give you the cable size. <S> If you have one to hand use a micrometer. <S> kinda looks like a large pair of pliers but can measure incredible small sizes. <S> Failing that pull out the old measuring tape or if times are really hard a ruler perhaps. <S> AWG 12 (Diameter): <S> 0.0808 (Inches)2.05 (Millimetres) AWG 14 (Diameter): 0.0641 (Inches)1.63 (Millimetres)
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Take note of the diameter and overall appearance of the cable, and then check the wires themselves.
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Are there any other reasons to use 130 volt halogen light bulbs instead of 120 volt bulbs? I recently had PAR30 50W Halogen light bulbs installed. I would have gone with 75W, but 50W is the max wattage supported by my light (shallow 6" can). I'm very disappointed with the how dim the lights are. They should be about 600 lumens and I don't have a meter but they are just not very bright. I took out one of the lights and noticed they are 130V rated. So, why 130V when in the US our line voltage is 120V? Best I can tell, voltages can fluctuate and the 130V are designed to be more durable, but at the cost of less light. One source indicated that 130V lights are 25% less bright at 120V. This makes sense since the filament needs 130V for peak brightness. They also save energy but only about 14%, so really you are trading durability and some energy savings for a lot less light. So, now to my question: are there reasons other than what I've mentioned for installing these? <Q> 130V bulbs, sometimes known as "rough service bulbs" are designed for areas where the quality of electrical service flucutates and can go over 120V or for use in places that are frequently bumped or have frequent vibrations or shocks. <S> These bulbs have a more durable lighting fillament. <A> Are there reasons other than what I've mentioned for installing these? <S> Not really. <S> This was the answer before fluorescent and LED. <S> Another reason is that when an electrical system is close to being at capacity after all the air conditioners come on in the day and then as the night cooled air conditioners would be turned off and the voltage would spike up for a moment. <S> Sometimes the spike would blow the bulbs. <S> Now with updates power companies give better power and spikes <S> are not that bad anymore. <S> If you really want to use 130V lamps, then on the halogen PAR lamps you might pick a beam spread that suits your task better. <S> Area lighting would be floods or wide floods but task areas, like for reading or hobbies <S> you might want narrow floods or spots. <S> The tighter the beam the more lumens you get. <A> YUK I abhor 130V stuff. <S> It always looks brown. <S> If looking to save coin on electric bill, its better to use 120V but lower wattage. <S> Much better quality of light. <S> Down with BROWN! <A> 130V bulbs are also used in locations that are hard to access, like extremely high ceilings, because of the labor saved by not having to replace them as often.
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Places that had a lot of incandescent would save more money using 130V lamps when brightness is not a great factor by saving energy and having to change bulbs less than 120V lamps, like an apartment complex.
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Why do the burners on my stove turn on and off while in use? I've got a Whirlpool RF378LXPB0. The two front burners (that can heat a smaller, inner burner, or both the small and larger around it) do not heat up all the way. When turning them on HI, the elements heat up red but then turn off after a few seconds. Once they cool down a bit they'll turn back on and heat up a bit until shutting off once again. I'm not mechanically or electrically inclined, and am not sure where to even start looking. <Q> The "burners" on an electric range have TWO settings - off and on. <S> There is no in between. <S> So they turn on and off to maintain a goal. <S> With the burner set to high, normally they stay on almost all the time, heating the pot on top of it to boil water. <S> With the heat control set to an intermediate value, the burner will kick on and off repeatedly to maintain a goal temperature. <S> However, if you leave a pot off of the burner, they will overheat if they stay on permanently. <S> The temperature sensor recognizes this fact, and that there is no need to leave the burner on. <S> All of this is different for a gas range, where it is the amount of gas that is fed to the burner to control the heat. <S> Note that an electric range will cook more slowly than a gas range. <S> So you may think the stove is not working properly, when it actually is working as it is designed. <S> One other important point - a smooth top range like this cooks most efficiently with flat bottomed pots. <S> You need good contact over the bottoms to get good heat transfer, and good heat transfer is essential for cooking. <S> Check this fact by taking one of your pots and hold a ruler across the diameter (underneath the pot). <S> Or take the pot and touch the edge of your counter top. <S> Sight along that straight edge. <S> Most pots tend to have a bit of a dish to them, so the center of the pot may stand off by as much as 1/4 inch. <S> Those pots will perform poorly. <S> (Sorry, but they will.) <S> That concave pot bottom is fine for a gas range. <S> But it will hurt you with a smooth top electric range. <A> Many electric heaters work this way (some are able to control input power instead, but such device is a lot more difficult to produce for most electric heater types). <A> Stoves in the USA are designed to be able to produce the maximum heat setting on both 240 volts and on 208 volts. <S> At 208 volts it will be on a higher percentage of time, but not as red. <S> At 240 volts it gets hotter when on, but goes off for more time to make up for that. <S> Many residences, particularly those in high-rise or large buildings, will get their single phase power using just two phase lines of a three phase system operating at 208/120 volts. <S> So these will be 208 volts, not 240 as is the norm for true single phase power. <S> In the past, stoves had optional 208 volt elements or 208 volt models and complicated setting controls only in specific steps. <S> Now electronic thermostatic control is cheap enough, that is used which also provides variable settings. <S> And it solves the 208 vs. 240 volt issue at the same time. <S> It's all cheaper this way. <A> We have the same stove and this is a flaw in the Whirlpool design. <S> The heaters are electronic (they look like IR LEDs) and thus switch on and off very fast. <S> This makes it very difficult to cook some foods (e.g. grilled cheese) because the stove may be effectively on "max" for 2 seconds and then "zero" for 10 seconds. <S> The toast burns before the cheese melts. <S> The best solution we have found is to use a heavy cast-iron frying pan. <S> It has a higher heat capacity that a stainless pan, and thus evens out the heat quite a lot. <S> The best solution would be for Whirlpool to cycle the heaters every quarter second, thus maintaining a more even heat.
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The heaters are probably thermostat controlled and what you see is a normal behaviour of the thermostat maintaining a target temperature.
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Which nails should I use for shoe molding installation? I'm about to install shoe molding all over my house. The baseboards are hung for carpet, but we're replacing the carpet with vinyl. So I have a pretty good sized gap to cover. I'll probably use 11/16 quarter round. The store display calls for 2.5 inch finish nails for installation. Will I be ok with 2 inch brad nails? I'll be buying a nail gun for this project, and I'm trying to decide between a finish nailer or a brad nailer. <Q> Definitely the Brad nails. <S> The finish nails will leave larger holes (16 gauge vs 18 gauge usually) and will be more likely to split the wood. <S> Based on the size of your shoe, i dont think you could use pin nails (18-23 gauge). <S> The Big Box home improvement store always sell kits with finish, brad, and pin nailers for pretty cheap. <S> Some have 2 guns, some 3, and some come with other stuff. <S> I've always found that the best way to go. <S> Just did a quick check for some kits. <S> Home depot <S> 3 piece <S> Kit for $99. <S> I have had good luck with the Husky Brand from HD. <S> Lowe's had some kits <S> but they were name brand and a lot more expensive. <A> Look for one of those. <S> And yes, a 2" nail thru just about 1" shoe molding should be fine as long as it hits the baseboard straight on. <A> What type of finish are you going to put on the shoe molding? <S> Paint? <S> Stain? <S> If you are planning to paint it, I would use use finish nails as they have a little larger head and will hold more securely. <S> The holes from the nail heads can then be easily filled and painted. <S> However if you are going for a natural wood look, I would use brad nails. <S> The heads are smaller, so they will be less obvious. <S> Also you can often get brad nails with brown painted heads <S> so you don't have shinny metallic dots in your shoe molding. <A> I would definitely go with 18 gauge brad nails. <S> Porter Cable makes a great combo kit with a compressor and two guns for a little over a hundred dollars. <S> Good luck!
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Some finish nailers will shoot both trim nails and brad nails. Could also check out Harbor Freight , their stuff is definitely cheaper quality, but maybe that is ok for your situation and usage.
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Can I use drywall screws to stop floor squeaks? I've got an old squeaky hardwood floor with access to from below. I can feel the hardwood boards moving under my feet when they squeak so I just plan to drill up through the subfloor into the hardwood. Would drywall screws do the job? I noticed they're cheap, which is good since I will need a lot of them! The screws are #6 x 1 1/4" coarse thread (thickness of floor + subfloor is ~1 1/2") The floor is 1 3/4" wide maple The subfloor is 3 1/2" wide boards laid diagonal across the joists <Q> I prefer working from under the floor when possible. <S> Although it is easier to screw loose flooring down from the top, it is often difficult to fill the holes and make the color and finish match. <S> Using the top down method is a last resort, especially if you have a large area to secure. <S> They will work on wood, but prefer a counter-sunk finish screw. <S> With finish screws, you can control the counter sink depth and the head is about the same size as a finish nail. <S> Using blind screws from the bottom is a common way to attack your problem. <S> The method of "pulling" the finish floor snug is important. <S> I have used drywall screws many times with great success. <S> You have to be very careful to calculate the thickness of the subfloor and finish hardwood, so the screw does not protrude through the floor. <S> If in fact the subfloor is pine or soft wood, a drywall screw may be a bad choice as they can be aggressive and counter sink themselves too deep. <S> Remember, the goal is to pull the finish floor down snug. <S> This can be done by predrilling holes in the subfloor at the same or 1/32" larger than the diameter of the screws. <S> That way, the screws are only threading into the finish floor, not the subfloor. <S> When the screw head contacts the bottom of the subfloor, all force pulls the finish floor down to the subfloor. <S> You can use a collet or a piece of tape on your drill bit to gauge the depth of your holes and not go into your finish flooring. <S> Rather than a countersinking screw, like a drywall screw, use a #8 panhead screw sized to only penetrate the finish floor 1/2" (for 3/4" flooring). <S> Just tighten the screws enough to make them snug, don't try to over-tighten them as that may cause them to strip out. <S> Plan on using quite a few screws. <S> I usually start by spacing them 8 to 10 inches apart. <S> In stubborn areas where the squeak just wont go away, you may need to add a few more screws. <S> Good Luck. <A> Drywall screws are for drywall any other use and the heads tends to snap off. <S> Wood screws are what you are after. <S> Also, be careful, if you have an old floor it is NOT 3/4 anymore because of shrinkage due to drying out and from resurfacing. <S> Same for the sub floor, it is not 3/4 anymore especially since they are probably pine. <S> I would not go up through the sub floor as driving a screw up into the finished floor will pull the sub floor to the finished floor. <S> The correct way of doing this is to go through the finished floor from the top INTO a floor joist and fill the holes. <S> But wait my floor will have holes in it <S> and I don't want that... <S> Well they sell special screw just for this type of repair operation, it has a special thread and shank after you screw down the floor you use a special tool to snap off the shank and it leaves a tiny hole in the floor that you fill. <S> Sorry forgot the name of the screws. <S> But the only correct way of doing this type of repair is to go from the top down an to hit a joist. <S> Just looked up the screw name, they are called Counter-Snap screws and the hole they leave is 1/8 of an inch. <A> If you sprinkle corn starch (Argo is one brand) or talcum powder over the floor and then sweep the floor the powder will get into any voids and act as a lubricant. <S> Don't vacuum the powder up, sweep the entire floor to allow the powder to fall into the voids. <S> After a few days you can vacuum or mop the floors to remove any excess from the surface. <A> In my experience, this would be a bit of a fool's errand. <S> Most older houses with the type of floor construction that you describe have a lot of loose squeaky boards. <S> First you have to consider the large number of hardwood floor boards that you would have to secure. <S> Then as you said, the floor is maple which is very hard and tends to crack very easily if you do not pre-drill to the appropriate size and depth. <S> Then to you have to think about the fact that many of the squeaks could be coming from the interface of the sub-floor boards against the floor joists. <S> And to top it all off, if you manage to secure everything tightly enough to eliminate the squeaks, chances are the floor will no longer be able to expand and contract with changes in temperature and humidity as it once did, which could lead to buckling, cracking, or worse yet, more squeaks... <S> If you have a few particularly bad spots you may try to fix those, but I would just consider the squeaks some of the character of an older home.
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The Counter Snap screws mentioned in the previous answer are great devices, but commonly used to secure squeaky sub-floors under carpet.
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What is involved in installing a free-standing electric oven range? My current oven just plugs into a big outlet in the wall. It's a giant three-pronged outlet. But all I need to do to get the oven to work (when it works) is to plug it into the outlet. I am now ordering a new oven online, since the old one has broken. They offer an installation service, but money is tight and I don't want to buy it if not necessary. I have people to help me lift the oven if it's just about lifting the oven, and people to take away the old oven. But will there be electrical issues to deal with, or will the new oven just have a plug and plug into the wall like the old one? <Q> The sales person should ask if you need a 3 or 4 prong cord, at the time of purchase. <S> NEC Article <S> 250.140 Frames of Ranges and Clothes Dryers. <S> requires 4 prong receptacles and appliance cords to be used in new installations, but allows 3 prong receptacles to be used if the following conditions are met. <S> 1) <S> The supply circuit is 120/240-volt, single-phase, 3-wire; or 208Y/120-volt derived from a 3-phase, 4-wire, wye-connected system. <S> This will almost always be true in a residential setting. <S> (2) <S> The grounded conductor is not smaller than 10 AWG copper or 8 AWG aluminum. <S> It's not likely <S> your wire will not meet this condition (unless it's really old). <S> (3) <S> The grounded conductor is insulated, or the grounded conductor is uninsulated and part of a Type SE service entrance cable and the branch circuit originates at the service equipment. <S> Again, the supply cable will almost always meet this condition in residential. <S> (4) Grounding contacts of receptacles furnished as part of the equipment are bonded to the equipment. <S> This just means that if there are receptacles on the range (I havn't seen this in many years), they must be bonded to the chassis (which should have been done by the manufacturer). <S> Plugging in a new electric range will not require the circuit to be brought up to current codes, so you should have no problem using a 3 prong appliance cord (in most situations). <S> It's a good idea to get somebody that has some experience with electrical work to install the cord, since improper installation can lead to injury, fire, and death. <S> The basic idea is that you don't want to restrict conductivity in any way, <S> so you'll want to make sure the terminals are tightened to the proper torque (a conductive paste is sometimes applied to insure adequate conductivity). <S> While you may be tempted to save a few bucks using the old appliance cord, this is usually not the best idea. <S> Over time the cord may become brittle or develop corrosion, which can both lead to increased resistance, which leads to excess heat buildup, which leads to failure and/or fire. <S> It's not worth the risk, spend the ~$20.00. <S> Make sure you read the manual before installing the range, and follow any and all manufacture instructions. <A> The first and most pressing issue is that your receptacle is a three wire and your stove will come with a four wire plug. <A> Most electric stoves do not include the "pigtail" cord that connects from the stove to the outlet. <S> So a typical replacement would go something like this. <S> Remove old stove from house <S> Remove old pigtail from old stove <S> Unbox new stove Install old pigtail on new stove <S> Move new stove into place (level with leveling feet as required) Enjoy. <S> The basic answer to your question is that if you have a person or two to help you move the stoves, then the installation service is definately optional.
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In most cases when you purchase a free-standing electric range, you'll be required to purchase the appliance cord separately.
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Does this 3 prong 250V outlet in the Philippines have two hots and a neutral or hot/neutral/ground? The plug claims to be 12A 250V, so I think its a NEMA 6-15R or 6-30R which handle 15 or 30 volts respectively. Here is a picture of the outlet: <Q> It looks like the Philippines uses a system similar to Europe, so it would be 1 hot ( 240V @60 <S> Hz.), <S> 1 neutral, and a ground. <S> Typical Worldwide Voltages Japan, Taiwan, North America and some parts of northern South America. <S> 100 - 120/240V <S> ± 5% @ <S> 60 <S> Hz. <S> Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, New Zealand and most of South America 230V <S> ± 6% @ <S> 50 Hz. <S> Here is a map of voltages and frequencies around the world from Wikipedia . <A> The Philippines have two systems at once. <S> Keep in mind <S> they were part of the United States for a long time (as a result of the Spanish-American War). <S> Part of the country (i.e. in the old American military bases and cities where the US did the wiring) is done to the North American 120/240 split phase system. <S> The newer, indigenously wired sections are largely being done to European/Asian 230V spec, although with 60Hz power so they can sync generators. <S> They tend to follow NEC more so than Euro standards, modified for the 230V single-leg service. <S> They also have an appalling tendency to put 230V on American 120V receptacles (NEMA 5-15). <S> You really have to watch what you plug in! <S> What you're seeing there is the right thing being done -- a NEMA 6-15 230V socket being wired with the correct North American plug. <S> If you are in the 120/240 American-style cities, that will be 240V hot-hot-ground, with each hot 120V from ground. <S> Except for certain places where it will also be hot-hot-ground, with neither one anywhere ground. <S> When I say "230V" <S> I mean 220-240V. <S> When I say "120V" I mean 110-120V. <A> The nominal voltage in the Philippines is actually 230 V at 60 Hz, though what you can actually measure between the two flat pins varies considerably, depending on location and distance from the transformer. <S> That's the responsibility of the home owner, not the electricity supplier. <S> In some locations one of the flat pins is neutral (close to earth potential) and the other is line, while in other locations both pins are floating with respect to earth - depending on whether the electricity supplier has earthed one of the wires at the transformer; some do, some don't. <S> Connectors of that type are used on domestic air conditioners in the Philippines, which often draw a heavy current each time the compressor motor starts.
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If you are in the rest of the country, it will be single-leg 230V hot-neutral-ground, with one pin near ground and the other 230V from it. The round pin is intended for a protective earth or ground connection though in some cases it simply isn't installed. The Philippines generally use North American receptacle standards, wire gauges, boxes, etc. -- even in the Euro-style areas. More modern inverter-based air conditioners are more gentle in their current requirements but they are still fitted with this type of plug.
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Is it possible to anchor a cabinet to a wall without damaging it? I have purchased an approx 2m high by 35cm deep dispay cabinet seated on a carpet floor. This is not fully stable (the cabinet rocks a bit when you exert force on the doors to open them), and it was suggested to me that we anchor the cabinet to the wall using some L-shaped brackets. I'd like to stabilize the cabinet but would ideally not like to drill holes in the wall or cabinet. If this isn't possible, I'd like to minimize the damage to the wall to avoid having to re-paint the entire wall when we eventually move to another house. We aren't in an earthquake-prone area so I'm not trying to attempt a rock solid load-bearing fastening... Just something to keep the cabinet in place when the doors are opened and closed. I had an idea of using something like 3m command strips or some kind of glue-based solution but really have idea if this would be possible. <Q> This is a tall unit and if it were fully loaded, it could really hurt someone (especially a child) <S> should it fall. <S> Products like the 3M command strips are designed for hooks where the force on them is acting downwards. <S> Your cabinet on the other hand, should it tip, would be pulling away from the wall <S> and I really don't think those strips would hold. <S> If it were my house and my kids, I would not trust them and would opt for a bracket. <S> As for glueing it, in all liklihood, it would just pull the paper layer of your drywall off with it. <S> Even if it held, it would likely damage your walls more than a couple of holes for a bracket when it comes time to remove it. <S> For a solution to this, what I often see come with tall bookcases is a short strap (webbbing) with a screw and washer on both sides. <S> One side screws into the back of the bookcase, and the other should be screwed into a drywall anchor - ideally a toggle bolt since they don't easily pull out. <S> The washer is important to prevent the screw from pulling through the webbing. <S> This particular one below uses velcro, but I'd personally screw it into the back of the bookcase. <S> (source: themanlyhousekeeper.com ) <S> Alternatively a L bracket will work, but they tend to look ugly and depending how much clearance you have, can be really tight to install and/or remove. <A> If this is a wall to wall carpet then the back edge of the cabinet most likely sitting on the tacking strip that is placed around the edge of the room under the carpet. <S> Making the cabinet lean forward slightly. <S> You could try placing one or 2 shims under the front edges of the cabinet to level cabinet or even raise the front a bit so it tends to lean back toward the wall. <S> That said if you are concerned about it falling a solid connection to the wall is best. <A> Re-secure, but also Put 2-3 screws through the strip into the strap (depending on the width) You should probably use a washer there. <S> Then, on the back side of the strip, (the side facing away from the wall) put another 2-3 screws right on the strap into the floor board. <S> (using washers) <S> Then, put the ratchet side with the hook over the top of the unit and give it a click or two. <S> Maybe put some bike inner-tube between the ratchet hook and the wood furniture. <S> However, I think just a wall strap would be far easier. <A> You'll have to paint it again later when you peel it off, but you'd be amazed what you can accomplish with a big roll of double sided self-adhesive velcro. <S> It won't keep the cabinet from falling over and crushing an infant trying to climb the cabinet, especially if said infant has a personal-injury lawyer as a parent, but that's just speculation on my part. <S> Seriously though, it will stop the cabinet from rocking away from the wall when you open and close doors. <S> It works great! <S> I used it many years for several poorly constructed cabinets (you know, the fast assemble utility furniture you buy at big box stores) and it took a 6" patch at each corner in an X.
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Well, if you REALLY don't want to damage the wall or cabinet, you could roll the carpet back, pull up the tact strip.. get a new one, then sandwich a tie-down strap between the floor wood and the tact strip.
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Easiest way to cut, shave, or chisel bottom 8" of posts to fit footings I got some 6x6's and deck post brackets that are similar to the picture below, except they're 8" high: Come to find out, the 6x6 is slightly too large to fit inside this bracket. Now I see how this makes sense. It is better that the bottom of the post is notched off, so that water runs over down the side and over the metal, instead of in between the wood and the bracket. I'm afraid this will take forever. What is the best way to shave off the bottom of the posts? I have 6 of them and will need to shave off 8" on all 4 sides. I have basic tools, like a chopsaw, skill saw, table saw, but I can't figure out how to do it, except use a chisel. And I'm afraid using a chisel will be imperfect and effect the stability. <Q> You're going to shave the sides, not the bottom. <S> The stability will come from the down force on the bottom of the post - a milimeter shift laterally inside a mounted bracket is nothing. <S> That said - easiest approach <S> IMO will be to set your circular saw to an extremely shallow depth and notch 8" height to that depth on TWO sides, not all four - and repeat that notch from the top line all the way down to the bottom - cutting over and over and over. <S> Then use a chisel to knock out the rest of the wood and clean it up some. <S> Something like this but with a REALLY shallow depth on your circ saw. <S> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0GJw7y9vzc <A> I'd use the table saw for as much as you can since this is what it's designed for. <S> Set the fence as close as you can to the blade and cut each side up to your 8" mark. <S> It may be easier to clamp a wood "stop" onto the table <S> saw <S> so you don't cut beyond the 8". <S> After you get half of all the sides done, reset the saw with the fence on the other side of the blade and repeat the process. <S> If your circular saw can get shallow enough, then use it to make a notch all around at the 8" mark. <S> A couple strokes with a hand saw would also do well. <S> You'll be left with 1-2" in the center that the table saw couldn't reach and some semi-circle's at the top up to your 8" line. <S> I'd just chisel the rest out using the existing cuts as my guide. <S> There's no need to be perfect. <S> Like Greebo says, the load will be transfered down, not to the sides. <S> And the part you're chiseling will be covered by your bracket. <S> If you're up for investing in another tool, I think a power planer may be the best for this job, but I have no direct experience to say for sure. <A> Lay the post flat on the table, make a series of passes until all the desired material is removed, rotate and repeat. <S> This can also be accomplished with a sliding miter, or circular saw. <S> Set the stop on the miter saw so the blade will only cut to the desired depth, and make a series of passes across the piece until most of the material is removed. <S> Finish by cleaning up the face with a chisel. <S> To avoid an arced ridge at the back side of the cut, clamp a scrap piece of wood against the fence to hold the work piece slightly away from the fence. <S> This same method can be used with a circular saw, by setting the cut depth, and again making a series of passes across the piece. <S> If you have a router and a straight cutting bit, you could use that. <S> Again, by setting the appropriate depth of the cut and making a series of passes. <S> Depending on how much material you want to remove, and how much of a workout you want to get. <S> You could use a hand saw to remove the material. <S> Simply make a cut all the way around the piece to the desired depth, then make the long cuts from the end of the piece up to the first cuts you made. <A> You can use a router or a dado blade in your table saw, or a surface plane to trim the bottom of the posts.
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You could install a Dado Blade in your table saw, set the depth to remove a very small amount of material.
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How do I connect a dryer with a four prong plug to a three prong socket? I've just moved house and my clothes dryer has a four prong plug but on the wall there's a three prong socket. Do adapters exist for this? Or do I need to get a new cord for my dryer? Or is there another solution? <Q> You could replace the cord on the dryer, but you'd have to bond the chassis of the dryer to make that acceptable to current NEC codes (Article 250.140). <S> This can be a safety hazard if done incorrectly, and it may or may not void the warranty on the dryer. <S> Since your dryer is set up to use a 4 prong receptacle, the optimal solution would be to update the receptacle to a 4 prong (NEMA 14-30R if I remember correctly). <S> However, this will require you to run new cable to the receptacle, since you'll need a cable with a ground. <S> Depending on the draw of the dryer and the length of the run, you'll either have to pull new 10-3 /w ground or 8-3 /w ground cable. <S> EDIT: <S> As @TheEvilGreebo pointed out, you may be able to simply swap out the cord on the dryer for a 3 prong version. <S> Check the manufacturers documentation to verify the procedure, and to make sure your model supports this. <S> EDIT: <S> This schematic for an electric dryer might help you understand how the dryer could be wired (depending on make/model/manufacture date). <A> the easiest thing to do is to replace the outlet, wire a new outlet in, assuming they both use the same type of cable (typically 10-3). <S> you flip the circuit off before you do it, of course. <S> much simpler than looking for an adapter (and probably safer) <A> Dryer cords are designed to be replaced. <S> It's apparently even common for them to ship without a cord so that you can install the appropriate cord for your outlet. <S> Houses built before 1996 typically need a 3-wire cord with a NEMA 10-30 connector. <S> Houses built after 1996 (in the US) typically have a NEMA 14-30 outlet, and will require a 4-wire cord. <S> (FWIW, a new cord seems to run around $11-$25 (as of 2015), depending on how long you need it and where you buy it.) <S> Whirlpool has detailed wiring instructions <S> so you can make sure you are wiring it properly. <S> Other manufacturers will likely have similar instructions. <S> Home Depot has some generic wiring instructions . <S> Contrary to people here, they recommend not updating the outlet to NEMA 14 yourself, but having a licensed electrician <S> do it if that's the way you want to go. <S> Having a separate ground sounds like a good idea at first, but if your dryer is like mine, it's not going to make a lot of difference. <S> Mine came with a 4-wire cord, but ground and neutral were wired to the same terminal internally. <S> I first thought that was crazy, but it is consistent with the installation instructions (although it is possible to keep them separate). <A> For those who say this can't be done it is possible that at some point the wiring may be set up for a 220v thirty amp system, and then down graded to a 120v 20 amp circuit. <S> See what wires are in the box after assuring there is no power. <S> If you have the heavier wire in the right array, you lucked out. <A> There are two options. <S> 1) You either have to update the outlet on the wall to <S> a 4-prong and the wiring that runs to it from the breaker panel. <S> 4-prong outlets have two hot wires, a neutral, and ground. <S> OR <S> 2) <S> You install a 3-prong plug on your dryer. <S> 4-prong plug is the current standard, so if you do upgrade the outlet, you'll be set for future.
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The cheaper option would be to replace the plug on the dryer. So, depending on your dryer, you may not get a separate ground even with a 14-30 connector.
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How can I find out where a door is sticking? Possible Duplicate: Doors are sticky and noisy when opened? We have several old doors in our house, with possibly a great deal of paint build up on them. As a result they are very difficult to close solidly (and then open) - they stick a great deal. Is it better to "work" on the door or on the frame, and how do I find out where exactly they're sticking, and then what is the best way to resolve it? <Q> I would try rubbing some chalk on the doorframe, and then closing the door. <S> Once you open the door again, the chalk will have rubbed off onto the door where it is sticking, and then you can use a block plane and shave some wood off of those areas. <A> To find out where it's sticking Turn of all the lights in the room. <S> Turn on all the lights in the adjoining room. <S> Close the door. <S> Examine the gap between the door and the frame, and any sticking points should be very, very evident. <S> In other words, you're drawing the line that would make the gap look even across the door, if it were cut at that point. <S> Then, use a plane to slowly edge off excess until you're close to the line. <S> Sand down the rest for a smooth looking edge. <S> If you've got a guide for a circular saw, you could also clamp it down along your line (or just above), and saw off the excess. <S> Again, sand down to the final layer. <A> You can also take a piece of paper and close the door on it, if it pulls out it is ok <S> in not it is too tight, <S> if you have tight fitting insulation don't put the paper all the way through. <S> Sometimes just a gentle sanding with a block and medium sandpaper will loosen it up without having to repaint.
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My preferred method of resolving Use a straight edge to mark the door where it's sticking, drawing a straight line down (or over) to where the gap is a reasonable size.
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How do I determine if adding an air conditioner will overload a circuit? I'm going to take advantage of some Memorial Day sales and pull the trigger on a portable AC unit for my "basement-ish" (bottom of windowsill is mid chest, rather than head height) apartment. Before I do this, however, I've been researching online, and I want to make sure that I don't buy something that's going to overload the electric circuit it'll be connected to. For the bedroom, the breaker indicates 15 Amps. The circuit will additionally have a desktop computer, two LCD displays, and a couple of lights. How can I tell if a new AC unit plus the existing items is going to cause tripped breakers or worse? <Q> The rating on the back is interesting, but many factors affect actual loads. <S> An easy way to measure real loads is with a Kill-A-Watt. <S> Expect breakers to trip at 80% of rating, under continuous load. <S> So 12A in your case. <A> write down the power rating of all those appliances (in watts) <S> divide by the voltage and add them together <S> this will give you the total amps used on the circuit, <A> Get the BTU rating of the AC and divide by the SEER to get watts. <S> If SEER is not available, 10 is a good rule of thumb. <S> So a 5000 BTU AC would use 500 watts. <S> Divide by line voltage (110) to get amps. <S> In this case, 4.5 amps.
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The only way to know what load a device draws is to put the device in to service and measure the load.
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How can I locate the entrance of a wasp nest, and prevent wasps from entering? While I was out gardening, I saw a wasp fly through a small hole beside my basement window and into my basement. Then later, I saw five more enter through two other holes (two in part of my AC, three in my fireplace exhaust area.) The exhaust area looks like this, but with four small holes in the metal plates where it attaches to the wall. That's where the wasps go in. I taped up the basement hole as a temporary stop-gap. My questions are: What should I use as a permanent seal? Should I seal all the wasp entrance holes? More importantly, what do they want and how do I get rid of them? I assume there's something in the house (food or a nest) that they're after. I can't find it, and don't know how to look for it. I would like prevention (no more wasps coming) over protection (spraying all the entrance holes with bug killer) if possible. <Q> It MAY have been a carpenter bee. <S> They look like big bumble bees, and are good to pollinate plants. <S> However they will do a great deal of damage with the galleries they build, gradually eating away a lot of wood. <S> Don't let them get a foothold or you will truly see a great deal of damage done. <S> A carpenter bee will drill a hole that is perfectly circular. <S> They like cedar, and go for places like fascia boards and soffits. <S> Then they turn, and will drill galleries just under the surface of the wood. <S> A symptom of carpenter bees is that you have woodpeckers hammering on your house. <S> They will find the galleries, and can hear the echo as they tap against a hollow spot. <S> If it looked like a wasp, then it still has a nest there. <S> A wasp will not just wander into a hole. <S> It has a reason to go in there. <S> No matter what it is, I would suggest dusting the hole with an insecticide. <S> (Delta Dust seems to work well for me. <S> I use a bulb to inject the dust into a hole. <S> Carpenter bees are not aggressive, but then stand well back, in case these are more aggressive wasps or hornets.) <S> If you find carpenter bees tumbling from the nest, wait until they are all dead. <S> The last nest I got rid of had 15 (LARGE) bees in it. <S> I had to repeatedly dust it until they all were dead. <S> Then you need to clean out the galleries (I use a Rotozip tool for this) and fill them with caulk or Bondo, as otherwise the bees will just re-inhabit next year. <S> And if you just fill the entrance hole, a hungry woodpecker may still find that nest. <S> Once you manage to eradicate the nest, yearly spraying will prevent them from building new nests. <S> They will just find other places to live, NOT in your home. <A> Get a product like HotShot for killing wasps. <S> Foam up the mouth of the nest. <S> It will likely finish the job. <A> (I would have made this as a comment <S> but I don't think I CAN comment) <S> Regarding where the nest might be - how thick is the wall? <S> If there is more than just that brick layer then the nest might be inside the wall. <S> It might not be very big. <S> They can make a nest anywhere they can get to. <S> If they were searching for food they'd be doing it out in the open. <S> The way you describe it, it sounds like they know where they're going, so they're probably going home. <S> There are many types of wasps, so could you describe it at all? <S> This may help identify it and thus what kind of nest it might be making, if any. <S> If you seal the holes with some kind of filler (anything really that won't wash away) then the wasps won't be able to get in or out and the ones in the nest (if there is one) will eventually die of hunger. <S> Assuming they are in the wall and there isn't a way out into the basement, in which case that might not be so good. <A> First off, you need to find out whether there really is a nest or not <S> and you need to be extra careful about it. <S> Investigate the area. <S> Look for wasps buzzing around - they are very territorial and will never leave their nest unattended during the day IF it is a social species. <S> So look around and see if you can track them. <S> If it's not a social species, then it's probably semi-social. <S> What this means is they coexist at a close proximity, but each one of the female wasps is fertile and has a nest of her own. <S> However, the behaviour you describe is much more consistent with social wasps. <S> You can use steel wool to seal the holes. <S> This should force the wasps to stick inside and die out in a few days unless they find another place to escape. <S> However, be extra careful because this WILL make them more dangerous. <A> This year both yellow jackets, paper wasps and bald faced hornets have been horrible at my farm. <S> We recently found a great way to get rid of them without hurting the good Bee's. <S> It takes 2 paper or plastic cups, bee attracting liquid. <S> And a small amount of hamburger (or other raw ground meat) and last some advantage flee and tic powder. <S> Make a medium meatball and mix the flee and tic killer into the meatball. <S> Poke holes in 1 cup put the meatball in that. <S> Put some attractant in the other cup (I used the cotton ball that came with the attractant it only takes a little bit) put the cup with the holes in the cup with the attractant. <S> Place where animals won't get it. <S> I put a wire mesh around mine so the bees can fly in but the dogs and cats cant get it. <S> After 4 days we had no bees, we have close to a dozen traps around the farm and were emptying them several times a week. <S> The bees take the poisoned meat to there nest <S> and it kills them, we will be doing this later in the fall as they said fall and spring will wipe out nests for good. <S> Hope this helps on getting rid of bad bees it has worked for us. <A> seal the holes with the expandable foam. <S> The wasps nest are made of paper and are not a problem to leave them in your wall.
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I would say that if there are wasps (or bees, or whatever), and multiple of them, going into small holes, then there would be a nest of some description.
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How to drill a hole in a space too small to fit a standard manual or electric drill? I have a very narrow kitchen cupboard I'd like to make some changes to (add shelves maybe). Almost any change will require drilling holes though, and there's not enough room for a standard electric or manual drill, so the first problem to solve is how to drill holes. It's only around 170mm wide. How can I drill a hole with only around 170mm of space? The holes would only need to be about 12-15mm deep. <Q> They sell what is called an "Offset" drill. <S> Instead of the chuck being inline with the motor, it is turned 90°. <S> They also make drills where the chuck can be turned to get into tight spots. <S> They also make an offset attachment for most drills. <A> If you have access to a Dremel, you can get a right-angle adapter for it: <S> Disclaimer: I don't actually own this adapter <S> so I don't know how big it is, and the specifications page doesn't say! <S> Make sure it will fit if you decide to buy it. <A> <A> I've not used the Bradawl mentioned in another answer, but I have used a push drill. <S> As you push down, the bit rotates clockwise, cutting the hole. <S> When you release, the handle springs up and the bit rotates in the other direction. <S> So you are making a push/pull motion. <S> A quick search turned up several different sizes of push drills. <A> Maybe an electric drill flexible extension can be of use for you. <S> http://www.amazon.com/Eazypower-30167-40-Inch-Flexible-Extension/dp/B0009XAFXU And not answering directly your answer, but offering an alternative, you can think in using heavy duty adhesives and brackets instead of drilling. <A> Would an aviation bit work in this situation? <S> An aviation bit is like a standard drill <S> but but much longer, say 12" or 18" or so. <S> Sometimes you can get the working end of the bit to where you need it when the drill itself is further away, beyond your obstacle.
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If you are going into wood or drywall, you might be able to use a Bradawl , which wouldn't be much larger than a standard screwdriver.
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How can I determine why my A/C runs all day? I have a Bryant AC/Furnace unit. My house is 10 years old. A heat wave hit this weekend & temps got up to 95°F outside. I had my thermostat set to 75°, and it ran all day. The thermostat never dropped below 80° during the day & eventually cooled down towards the evening. How can I tell if it's a problem with my AC or with the insulation in the house? The attic has insulation "blown" in it, and from what I can tell, was done recently before we bought the house 5 years ago. Does the "blown" insulation have to be re-blown every so often? Or is it more likely a problem with the AC unit? I've never had it serviced since I bought the house, but I have changed the air filters monthly. Edit Something else I remembered: my house is bi-level. I keep the downstairs vents closed because if they're all open, it gets pretty cold down there. With them closed, it's maybe a little warmer than upstairs. We're upstairs most of the time anyway. Would that affect anything? <Q> Your question almost exactly sums up the situation I had at my home last August. <S> What I found then was that despite a properly sized air conditioning unit and what I believe to be good insulation (the house holds heat well during the winter), the unit still couldn't keep up. <S> I don't have full proof, but I think a few factors caused my situation and might be worth checking for you: <S> The condenser (outdoor unit) sits in an "inside corner" with the house on two sides of it and a chimney and small storage shed that partially blocks a third side of it. <S> This prevents good airflow across the unit. <S> [I can't do anything about this without relocating the unit, which is not a DIY job for me.] <S> We had very little wind at all during the heat wave, which also added to the lack of airflow across the condenser. <S> The condenser was visibly dirty, which makes heat transfer to the outdoor air less efficient. <S> Lots of dirt, dust, pollen, grass clippings, etc. build up on the fins over time. <S> Normally rain will clean it off somewhat, but we hadn't had rain in ages. <S> Despite some advice <S> I've seen not to do it, I used a garden hose to wash off the fins of the condenser (it gets wet from rain, right?) <S> very gently, taking care not to make it full of mud or to bend the fins. <S> I could see water evaporating immediately on contact, and I have an infrared thermometer I used that showed a 30F or so drop in temperature in short order. <S> The AC performed much better after that, but we also started to get a gentle breeze that helped things along. <A> The easy answer is because your thermostat is telling it to run all day. <S> So, should it or should it not be? <S> Is the thermostat in a good position in the house? <S> If it's directly in the path of a sunbeam, then it will get hot and run more than necessary to cool the rest of the the house down. <S> Is there enough cool air coming out each of the vents? <S> If you close most of the vents, do the remaining ones have a stronger air force? <S> If not, you might be leaking some air out of the ducts. <S> If your A/C unit is 10 years old and has not been serviced in at least the past 5 years, it's probably worth the money for an inspection/service. <S> This shouldn't be terribly expensive and is a good starting point. <S> Monthly air filter changes also sounds like a little excessive to me. <S> Also: Check for a second air filter if it's an older system. <S> I was surprised to find a second one in my unit and promptly changed it. <A> If the coolant is low, there is not enough to cool the air as it passes through the coil. <S> You may have a leak somewhere, but the house is cooling somewhat, so the system is not empty. <S> Regardless, call a qualified A/C person to service the unit.
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Another likely problem is that your system needs the coolant recharged.
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How do I determine which phone line goes where, without any special tools? I have six (6) phone lines running from my rooms into the basement. They are not terminated as this is a new build. I need to determine which line corresponds to which room. Is there a way to do this without purchasing a line tester? <Q> The simplest route would be to use a circuit tester on the various lines in your basement, and have a friend temporarily short the lines in each of the rooms. <S> An audible circuit tester makes this very easy. <S> It can be a standalone circuit checker, or as part of a multimeter's functionality. <S> It raises a voltage across a circuit, and if that circuit is complete current flows, sounding a buzzer. <S> If you have a multimeter, look for a speaker icon to see if yours can do this. <S> but that shouldn't be needed - the voltage drop should be negligible. <A> Well I think you know already that the typical way to find these is with a tone generator kit (line tester), however, the simpliest way is to simply plug a phone in to the end of the drop, and then connect the drops to the feed (patch panel/NID/etc) one by one until you hear a dial tone on the phone. <S> The step by step process works like this: <S> Terminate the end where you will plug a phone in (install a jack). <S> Plug a phone into the jack you just installed <S> ; verify there is no dial tone Head downstairs (or where ever all your wires are located). <S> Pick any cable and connect the red/green pair to the live service (probably the red/green pair too) <S> Go back to the phone - check for dial tone. <S> If you have a dial tone, you know what cable it is. <S> Now repeat for other phones. <S> If you didn't hear a dial tone, disconnect the cable and try another, and repeat the process until you find which one it is. <A> I used a 9 volt battery and a multi-meter tester. <S> Fist, I Hooked the solid blue wire to the positive post on the battery <S> and then I attached the whitestripe/ blue wire to the negative post. <S> Then I went down the basement where all the wires go into the phone box <S> ( I had 10 wires hanging down there <S> and none of them had been hooked up). <S> I started testing the solid blue wire and whitestripe/ blue wires from each of the cat5 wires hanging down there in the basement with a multi tester. <S> Suddenly the meter pegged and when it did this I knew that I had the wire that was attached to the 9 volt battery up stairs. <S> This could be done alone as long as you can figure out how to attach the small little wires to the top of the 9 volt bettery. <S> I was lucky to have a snap on plastic protector from one of my 9 volt batteries handy and used this to snap those little wires to the top of the battery. <S> Not sure what the correct setting on the multi-meter tester was. <S> Just google this part. <S> When I googled it <S> I <S> someone said to to set the multi-meter to the DC setting and moving the selector to at least the 40 volt range. <S> This seemed to work well for me. <S> Good luck
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When you hear the dial tone, you know what line you've connected. As @lqlarry said, you could do this with a 9V battery
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How can I install a window air conditioner in a metal window frame? I'm trying to install a window unit air conditioner, but most of the installation instructions don't seem to work with this window configuration. A little bit about the setup: The apartment is the 5th floor of a pre-war walkup building that has gone through various renovations, but none that have made it too modern. The window is about 30" wide, and is a metal frame. There are two issues that make it hard to install a window AC unit: The window sill is made out of metal, so I can't nail or screw anything into it The base of the window has a thin (about 1/4") piece of metal jutting out of the buttom that's 2" high in the interior and 1.5" high in the exterior. This means I can't rest any part of the air conditioner on the sill - it ends up just resting on that piece of metal. Most of the AC units I've looked at have brackets that get nailed into the window sill, and also require that they can sit flat against a ledge to fall into the brackets. Some examples of the instructions for the units for sale in my area are here: http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Edison/2020211a1131en.pdf http://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-LW6012ER# Looking at my neighbors' apartments, it looks like their units have been there for decades, and some are propped up on things like phone books or 2x4s. I'm hoping to find a safer solution than that, so I don't accidentally drop a 50 pound AC unit 5 stories. I tinkered with it yesterday (using the LG unit), and the best I could come up with was wedging the AC in at an angle and closing the window, but that didn't seem safe or stable, and left a hole to the outside because the curtains weren't flush with the window. Is it possible to install a window air conditioner in this setup, and how would I go about doing it? <Q> Since it sounds like it might be difficult for you to get to a lumberyard to build your own solution, you might be better off using a pre-made product. <S> AC-Safe , makes Universal Air Conditioner Supports that might be useful in your situation. <S> I've also seen brackets that mount to the bottom of A\C unit itself, and offer support against the outside of the building (but I was unable to find an example online. <S> I think Thermwell makes them). <A> I have the same NYC metal windows, and I'm using a universal bracket like the other commenter posted. <S> I drilled two small holes in the bottom of my window frame (where the sash rests when the window is closed) and screwed the bracket into the wood below. <S> The foot of the bracket rests on the stone window ledge. <S> It's weird that manufacturers don't provide instructions for these windows, since they seem to be pretty common in cities. <A> They are more expensive, but perhaps a "portable" unit might work better in this circumstance? <S> It might still be a bit of a pain attach the hose to the window, but there'd be no saftey concerns with this. <S> For example: https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-Compact-Portable-Conditioner-Dehumidifier/dp/B079RH3G8Y
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The system requires you to screw the platform into the window sill (which may or may not be possible in your situation), then simply rests against the outside of the building to support the A\C unit.
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How can I install a dishwasher under a 23 inch deep counter space? We want to install a dishwasher in our kitchen, however the cabinet box is only 23" deep and dishwashers are usually 24 inches deep (as I understand). This would pose a problem when opening a bank of drawers that are perpendicular to the dishwasher. The cabinets were built on-site/in-place and cannot be removed. We were considering "chipping away" part of the wall studs behind where the dishwasher would go in order to gain an additional inch. However, this method is a bit awkward. Does anyone have a clever idea on how to solve this problem? <Q> You can definitely get dishwashers that are not as deep as the standard, though selection will be more limited. <S> One thing to consider is that the dishwasher needs a bit of clearance and wiggle room, so you'll likely need to accomodate more than 1" difference. <S> I would recommend against chipping away at the studs in you wall as this will reduce the strength of the studs and wall significantly. <S> If this is an internal non-load bearing wall this might be OK <S> but this would be a big problem if it were a load bearing wall. <S> I think the best/easiest solution is just to find a different dishwasher that will fit your space. <A> I am having this exact problem (also in the vertical dimension) right now. <S> I didn't get to choose my dishwasher. <S> I did discover that some of the Bosch dishwashers are slightly less than 24" across and some less than 24" deep as well. <S> There are the half size (16") ones as well <S> but those tend to be really expensive for whatever reason (less demand and less competition I guess) <S> and I don't remember if they tend to have less depth as well, or make up for their small width by being the full 24" deep. <S> I will be careful NOT to damage either the framing or the lath. <S> The dishwasher will still stick out about 1/2" so I will have to add trim to join it to the existing cabinet faces. <S> (For the vertical dimension I need to cut and route a thin slice off the bottom of the countertop.) <S> I don't have any drawers or cabinets at right angles though <S> so it's ok if it sticks out a bit. <S> I have no idea if this is a good plan or if it will work but can post here the results (hopefully after this weekend.) <S> Reed <A> THE one inch top of Ifb dish washer is removable ,you need to get it removed to fit under the cabin . <S> ask your manufacturer . <A> i have the exact same problem! <S> I had a cheap brick dishwasher in the space before, and just purchased a Bosch dishwasher that sits outside the space about 2-3 inches, which blocks the access to the side drawer. <S> I am not sure how the old dishwasher fit, but it was some throw away crap sold only by the Brick. <S> So if you think Bosch has a little less depth <S> I think I may be screwed in trying to find something to fit the space. <S> I am thinking also off cutting into the wall behind the dishwasher, a wall that faces the back porch, and which needs to be rebuilt on the outside after kitchen renno. <S> I am hoping that cutting into the inside of that wall will not cause other issues such as not enough insulation between the wall and outside. <S> It's a real problem!
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My plan to get the dishwasher I already happen to have in is to cut out the back of the cabinet (just enough for the back parts of the dishwasher to go through, perhaps adding some horizontal and vertical strips around the hole to reinforce the cabinet) and maybe even the plaster wall, then cover the cracks between lath pieces with drywall tape and put on a coat or two of join compound, and paint.
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What is a good wood to use to build a base for a heavy antique table top? So my gf has a really sweet antique baker's table top. It has what I believe is a porcelain but may be ceramic finish. I've never tried lifting it (it was here before I was) but she tells me it weighs a ton, or more precisely: "You'll need another man or my sister to move it. I can't possibly lift it," which I estimate means it weighs at least 75 - 100 lbs (my gf is small and not the strongest, but she can carry a 30 - 40 pound box if she needs to, so I know it must be pretty heavy if she can't even co-carry it). The table supporting it is not so impressive. While the craftsmanship of the corner beams is impressive (by my low standards), this table has clearly seen better days and wasn't built to last. All points of contact are separated and there is clear stress marks all over. So, we're not up to building a new table from scratch (I've never done it and I don't want to be to blame if her table gets scratched if the new one collapses), so we're going to post an ad for a carpenter to come out and build us one. But I want to get a really nice wood that might hold up better than the last one. The tabletop is the real prize here, but I think it deserves a better resting place than whatever lumber is on sale at Home Depot. Having said all that, I know that oak would be a bit much (both price and need), but even if I were to consider something that high-end, she's determined to paint the table some nifty color, and I know that it's just rude to paint oak. So what wood meets the requirements: Sturdy, hard, strong enough to hold up a 100lb+ slab Not so expensive that I'll feel silly but not so cheap that I won't trust it to last more than a few years Industrial enough in the sense that it's not offensive/de-valuing to the wood to paint it turquoise (or whatever she goes with). <Q> Wood is wood. <S> What I'd do is to select the wood based on how easy it is to work with and how you want it finished - dark or light; <S> painted or stained or natural; oiled, shellacked or varnished; with lots of obvious wood grain and/or knots, or a tight, even grain, etc. <S> More interesting and aesthetically pleasing wood tends to be more expensive. <S> Also, you probably want to hire a cabinet maker rather than a carpenter. <S> You don't necessarily need the skills of a furniture maker for this project, but you will need a different set of skills than a typical carpenter has. <S> A good cabinet maker will work with you to match the wood with your design goals. <S> Finally, maybe take the table as it is to a furniture restorer. <S> It could be the table is substantial enough, it just needs some long-overdue maintenance to tighten the joins and refinish the wood - this will be less expensive than rebuilding it from scratch, and can preserve any value the table has as vintage furniture. <A> As an extension to what RI Swamp Yankee has said, there are some reasons to choose one wood over another. <S> For example, pine can be a pretty soft wood. <S> In fact, some types of pine can dent pretty easily, while others are actually pretty dense. <S> There are other issues with pine. <S> For example, pine will often get stains bleeding through paint. <S> (You might want to avoid knotty pine for this reason.) <S> Other woods can have their own issues. <S> Oak for example, has large pores and prominent figure that will show through paint unless a filler is used to fill those pores. <S> However, oak is a quite dense, hard wood that will take a lot of abuse, and it is not terribly expensive. <S> (Virtually any commonly used wood will be strong enough to support the weight you mention.) <S> As far as expense of wood goes, it may well be that the wood itself is less expensive than paying a cabinetmaker to make the frame. <S> Time does not come cheaply. <S> You may be surprised at the cost, and reconsider how relatively inexpensive it might be to have repairs done to the existing structure. <S> Finally a good woodworker will know the locally obtainable woods, since locally obtainable means the wood will be less expensive. <S> They may also suggest an alternative to wood as being less expensive - perhaps MDF. <A> Why not Maple or Poplar? <S> Poplar is very cheap but pretty soft; Maple is harder and pricier but still not terribly expensive. <S> Both take paint well because they have tight grain that doesn't need to be filled to get an even, unblemished surface. <S> You could even go super cheap and use something like Pine, as long as you fill the pores with a wood filler and sand it flush before painting. <S> None of these stain as well as more expensive woods like Oak, but it seems staining is out of the question for you. <S> As Rl Swamp Yankee said, wood is wood (at least in that the vast majority of it will support your top if the base is built correctly). <S> Any furniture grade lumber can support quite a bit of weight, so go with a grain that will fit your needs. <S> To reassure you, Poplar is used frequently as a secondary and support wood in furniture projects, and Maple is often used to build 300+ lb work benches. <S> Here's an interesting overview describing wood's ability to carry loads: http://www.ehow.com/info_12003543_load-bearing-properties-common-woods.html <S> And a link for calculating the load-bearing capacity of a column of wood (although this looks like it's only for typical construction-grade lumber rather than hardwoods): https://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html
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So long as it's furniture grade lumber, and adequately designed to support the weight of the tabletop, it doesn't much matter if it's pine or mahogany.
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How can I repair my damaged kitchen counter? I made a stupid mistake and placed a hot pan on the kitchen counter top directly, which made a small burn and a bigger bump filled with air that cracked after a little while. I don't know much about kitchens, and I can't tell what the material is. Is there a way to fix this? <Q> That's a laminate countertop. <S> the damaged spot is small enough where it may work. <S> You'll need to remove the blistered material with a sharp knife before applying the compound. <S> Instructions for application, complete with '70s style cartoons, can be found here . <S> If the results aren't satisfactory, you will need to cut out a section to install an inset cutting board, or re-laminate the countertop - neither option is simple or easy. <A> On the plus side, you ruined the least expensive type of countertop--laminate. <S> How big is that particular section of counter top? <S> Might be easiest to just replace that section. <A> SeamFil (Laminate Repair goop) and FormFil (Color matched caulk) would not work well in this situation. <S> Since just the laminate color layer blistered and is very thin, they will "come out" given time. <S> Cut out a piece of plywood a bit bigger than the damaged area and place it over the damage area and with a really sharp razor run the knife along the plywood to score the laminate <S> (try to make straight cuts), you will need to do this a few times to get through the laminate, not many since the postform laminate is less than a 1/16 of an inch. <S> Since you probably don't have laminate lying around and <S> it looks white, I am going to take a guess they just used thin Designer White (Wilsonart 354), you could go to a local cabinet/counter shop and ask for a small piece, or if not 354, bring the piece you just cut out. <S> If the shop has been around for a while, they have tons of laminate in stock and should be able to match it. <S> Take the same piece of ply and cut out a square of lam from the new piece, and place it in. <S> You can use carpenters glue or contact adhesive. <S> Oh, yeah don't forget to remove the cut out laminate. <S> You can use a heat gun to soften the glue underneath but be careful of the surrounding lam. <A> I just had a roommate damage one of my countertops with phosphoric acid. <S> I've been told there is no fix except replacement, which is not a good option as I cannot match the pattern nor the wall tile that it's bonded to if I replace it. <S> The damage is a light spot that almost disappears when wet or use lemon oil but that is only temporary. <S> I am trying a clear epoxy on a scrap piece that I purposely damaged with positive results so far. <S> One problem that I'm having is that the epoxy alone isn't enough to completely get rid of the light spot. <S> The other is that the coat is too glossy. <S> Once it has set (about two days) with a very thin coat, the epoxy seems extremely tough so there is hope. <S> Today I am trying again <S> and I think I'll be more successful. <S> First, I used oil based paint of a darker color carefully applying it thinning it out as I go with paint thinner until it matched. <S> Acetone will take it right off if I made mistakes. <S> But the paint touch up isn't enough. <S> Next I let it completely dry then mixed a very small amount of epoxy. <S> The trick is to go very thin. <S> I'm not finished, but the gloss can been toned down by lightly brushing the surface as it sets. <S> I'm doing it every hour, at first with my finger then using a cloth. <S> I may have to use a dry scouring pad. <S> The soft set is complete after 8 hours. <S> After three days it completely sets and it's permanent although a second coat may help if the first does not look right. <S> Anyway, it's worth trying. <S> The other options are to live with the stain or completely replace the countertop or floor. <S> Good luck finding anything that will match. <S> Manufacturers change their designs often making a partial fix difficult unless extra material was saved. <S> I am hopeful that this will work. <S> My cost is my time and about $15. <S> To replace it would be $3000. <S> It's worth a try but use something very tough.
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You may want to try to use a repair compound like SeamFill or FormFill Laminate Repair - Now, unless you have access to a postform machine (which is basically a big really hot table) and unless you want to pay to get it re-laminated, there is only one thing you can really do, cut it out.
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What should I do about a receptacle with 2 circuits going through it where white wires are hot? I have a receptacle that has 3 white wires and 1 black. The black wire is hot and 2 of the white wires are hot but on a separate circuit than the black one (2 bedroom's outlets on separate circuits but tied to this one receptacle). This doesn't seem right to me. All 3 white wires are hooked up to the white side of the receptacle while the black is on the hot side. It takes 2 breakers to turn off the entire outlet (I was shocked when I found out). Really, I was shocked, that's how I found out. I thought I had shutoff the breaker but didn't know the white wires were hot and part of another circuit. It appears I should bracket the two breakers for safety. My real question is "Is it o.k. for the two white wires to be hot and hooked to the white side of the receptacle?". Additionally, when this outlet is apart the second circuit does not work. The whole setup just seems odd. As a side note, the house was built in '63. Maybe different regulations then. <Q> Is it OK? <S> No. <S> You have hots from two circuits going into one receptacle, but you only have one neutral. <S> By placing load from two circuits onto one neutral wire, you have the risk of overloading that wire without tripping the circuit breakers for either circuit. <S> Additionally, current code requires dipole breakers in this case, so overload on either circuit shuts off both. <S> You should also trace the cables to adjacent receptacles/junctions and check those -- this isn't a good sign about the quality of electrical work in your home. <S> If you're lucky, the fix is just a matter of a few changes in receptacle boxes. <S> If you're unlucky... <S> well, it's better to find out through inspection than through a fire. <S> You'll want to get a non-contact voltage tester. <S> Be safe! <A> All 3 white wires are hooked up to the white side of the receptacle while the black is on the hot side. <S> It takes 2 breakers to turn off the entire outlet (I was shocked when I found out). <S> Really, I was shocked, that's how I found out. <S> I belive you may be misinterpreting the situation. <S> I think that the most likely explanation is that all three white wires were in fact neutrals and that the neutral connection was shared among two or more circuits. <S> Furthermore there was some load on the circuit(s) that you did note isolate. <S> When you disconnected the wires there was nowhere for the current to go and so the disconnected neutral wires became hot. <S> This is an especially insiduous situation because when you first opened the box nothing was "hot" (at a significant voltage relative to ground). <S> The wires only became hot after you disconnected them. <S> Shared neutrals are bad for two reasons. <S> Firstly because of the Electric shock risk to people working on the installation. <S> Secondly if the circuits are on the same phase they can lead to overloaded nutral conductors. <S> You really do want to get this fixed, either by properly seperating the circuits or possiblly by merging them into one multiwire circuit with a proper common trip breaker. <A> Your description doesn't seem right to me. <S> If two white wires are hot, and one is a neutral, then there should be a short where the three wires are wired together, and a breaker would be constantly tripping. <S> The first thing I'd look for is to see if the knockout tab on the outlet is present or not. <S> If it isn't there, the receptacle is a split. <S> There should be two hots, and a (shared)neutralon the other side. <S> Typically, this is accomplished with 14/3 wire, Black and Red (or blue) being hots, to separate breakers, and White being the shared neutral. <S> Green or bare copper is ground. <S> I'm wondering if the whites are two hots, and the black is being used as neutral in this case. <S> This is usually a symptom of Leftoveritis -- <S> The tendency of a DIYer to use improper wire just because they have a leftover coil of it in the basement. <S> The other white could be used to carry power over to another circuit or switch. <S> I'd get an outlet tester, and make sure that the outlet is indeed wired correctly (in an electrical sense). <S> If it is, put it back together and write in magic marker "WARNING: <S> WHITE AND BLACK MAY BE HOT" or other such cautionary message. <A> If you get the wires sorted out tape the hot white wires with black tape to identify them as hot wires. <S> Do this on both ends. <S> It's possible someone had a 240V receptacle installed at one time which requires two hot wires on different phases in a residence. <S> in addition there are duplex receptacles available which have a 120V and a 240V receptacle on the same yoke. <S> In any case this is not a good situation because the wires are not the proper color.
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It's possible to safely have two circuits feeding one receptacle, if you have a hot/neutral pair for each segment. To fix this, you need to determine which hot is associated with the same cable back to your circuit breaker as your effective neutral, and disconnect the other hot. (One of the black wires may be feeding another receptacle; make sure that receptacle has a correct neutral.) Aside from the dangerous confusion you experienced there is an ongoing safety problem here. So something else is going on here. (Which means you are going to confuse the next person who opens that box.)
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How do I remove stickers and residue from a wooden door? When I was a kid I put a ton of stickers all over my wooden door. In addition, I also taped on posters and pictures. I tried removing the stickers and with some of them having been there for more than ten years they leave behind some paper backing and some sticky white residue. The tape also seems to leave behind some residue. So basically, I am wondering, what is the best way to remove all of the stickers and tape from my wooden door so that my door can look as best as it possibly can? In addition, are there things I can do to my door after residue removal to make it look better? Thank you very much in advance for your time. <Q> For this sort of residue, I highly recommend GooGone . <S> Mineral spirits, and Naptha will work, but the fumes they give off are much worse. <S> You should also do a test area first, in case <S> the chemicals you're using causes problems with the original surface (removes it too, stains it, etc.) <S> You might be able to speed things up with a hair dryer ( not a heat gun, it'll heat things too much), and a soft plastic scraper (something too hard will do more damage than it helps). <S> As for making it look better -- you might want to just strip the whole thing down and refinish it if it's particularly bad. <A> Others have recommended actual products, but it is possible that those will leave stains on the surface after the fact. <S> Have you considered/tried a steam cleaner? <S> They are pretty good for tasks like that <S> and they use only water <S> so you have less of a mess left behind. <S> I've used it to remove stickers from an array of surfaces and it works great every time. <S> Hope that helps. <A> The stickers probably have a water based glue. <S> You removed the sticker but the paper backing is still there? <S> I would apply some water to the paper and let it soak for a few minutes then try to carefully scrap it off without damaging the finish of the door. <S> If that does not work, you could apply a little Naptha (zippo lighter fluid) on the glue residue to remove it. <S> Don't use thinner or anything harsh as it will most likely remove the finish on the door. <S> WD-40 should work also on the tape residue, try this first then the Naptha. <A> I just tried eucalyptus oil. <S> This worked very well and did not damage the lacquer. <S> (It was that hard lacquer that they put on pine furniture in the 1980's) <S> Also the smell is pleasant. <A> It works great: but use gloves as it will remove all the oils from your hands. <S> You can get similar results with orange peel, but it's not as easy or clean. <S> After this you may still see an image of the tape on the door, as the uncovered area has faded. <S> Either wait for it to fade to match, or repaint the entire door (removing hinges and hardware first, please!). <A> You could try nail polish remover and then peel it off. <S> Ours works! <A> If the adhesive has turned into a hard mini-reef and refuses to soften with any solvents, then your only option after a decade might be mechanical. <S> TEST FIRST but <S> some combination of sharp or blunt paint scrapers might be enough to remove the solid parts. <S> Risk is a sharp scraper may take slivers of the door off because the door is softer than the dry adhesive. <S> Once the dried adhesive is gone, you could sand the whole door and then re-varnish it. <S> Can't really get away with a spot sanding - the cleaned area will be clearly obvious.
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As for the tape, you could try heating it up with a hair dryer to soften the glue and try to remove. For the really stubborn stuff, GooGone + a plastic scrub pad (regular duty, not one of the heavy duty ones). I highly recommend "De-Solv-It", a citrus based stickum remover.
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What kind of gloves do I need for working around electrical wires? What kind of gloves could I wear before manipulating electric wires if I really want to be safe even after having turned off house electricity? And where to buy them? <Q> If the electricity has been turned off, and you have confirmed it's off via a non-contact tester, multi-meter, or some other method, then you don't need gloves to protect yourself from electrocution - there should be no risk if you've actually confirmed it's off. <S> I even go as far as to put a piece of tape over the breaker so someone doesn't walk by and flip it back on. <S> I sometimes wear gloves to protect my hands from scrapes and cuts - any work glove you find comfortable for the job should work. <S> As DA01 said in a comment, a glove that would protect you from shock would likely make working with the wire/cable we find in residential difficult. <S> They do however make insulated tools which can be used when working on live gear. <S> Best to just turn the power off and not worry. <A> The best thing to do is not work on or around any thing energized. <S> DO <S> NOT work on anything energized with gloves that are not designed for that purpose. <S> If you want to learn about electrical protection then go to this website . <S> For the short answer you need two or three gloves to handle energized circuits. <S> All have to be rated for the voltage <S> you are working on. <S> The first pair is optional, they are for comfort and warmth. <S> The second pair is the rubber gloves. <S> This is where you get your protection. <S> They come in different lengths and even sleeves. <S> The third pair is leather to protect the insulated gloves. <S> You can't just buy these anywhere, and since you did not know about these I beg you not to attempt to use them. <S> Very few licensed electricians have or use these. <A> Gloves can be bought at many DIY stores - they are labeled as gloves for electric works and rated for some specific voltage. <S> However gloves alone don't guarantee protection. <S> It is possible that some energized wire touches your body above the glove and you can get shocked. <S> This is why a lot of other insulated protective gear is used by the electricians - insulating mats, insulated ladders, etc - and working on or near energized wires is strictly regulated (by something like USA National Electrical Code or an equivalent in other countries). <S> One major factor is that wires are rather hard and so their edges are rather sharp and so they can easily cut through almost any glove or damage the glove and weaken the insulation. <S> This is why you use pliers with specially insulated handles to work with energized wire edges. <S> If you are unsure about whether the wires are energized then you'd better work according to the regulations and in that case I'm almost sure gloves alone are not enough.
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That said, if you are sure (you have tested and you're really sure) that the wires are disconnected and not energized you can just work on them without special gear - however some basic tools and gloves to protect you from cuts would not hurt.
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Is there a way to trace water pipes through walls? I recently purchased my house and I am trying to find my internal valve to turn on my external faucet . Unfortunately the previous owner put in a bathroom in over where the water line enters the house and it also covers the area where the external faucet enters the house. I'm about to go making holes in the bathroom's drywall and ceiling to find the valve. I would like some advice for tracing the water pipe so that I may avoid any obvious pitfalls and any advice for when I cut into the drywall for repairing it afterwards. (or maybe I'm going about this the wrong way) <Q> I was lucky and had limited access to the ceiling space that the pipe was running through by opening air ducts and pushing the vents up and out of the way. <S> Using a webcam, a long usb cable and flashlight I managed to scope out the pipe in the space and trace it back to where it joined up to the main water line. <S> Eventually I found the valve through pure chance. <S> It was located inside of a wall stud and underneath <S> a crossbeam rendering it all but invisible. <A> There is no way to trace the water pipe behind the walls with any certainty without using a hole in the wall. <S> If none exists, you will have to make one (plus). <S> Make shallow cuts in the drywall. <S> A vibrating tool with a circular blade will make nice, clean, sharp, easily patchable holes without cutting so deep as to risk cutting the pipes. <A> If it's the hot water line, you can find them by running hot water for a few minutes and using an infrared camera. <S> Alternatively, you can use a metal detector like Rizstien said. <S> This prevents the removed piece of drywall from falling into the wall when you put it back in place and increases its long-term strength. <S> If you cut straight through, it's harder to patch; you have to fasten a piece of wood spanning the gap to avoid these issues and screw <S> / adhere it into place. <A> Simple :) <A> Yes, there is a way to view what's behind a wall... <S> There's this new device called DeWalt DCT418 (x-ray) <S> It cost around $300 (at least from Amazon) <S> I think this would help you a lot. <A> Check out the Bosch D-TECT 120 Wall and Floor Detection Scanner. <S> This detects things behind walls, but can't tell you what it is. <S> You can also check the D-TECT 150, if you want something more specific. <A> It occurs to me that an RF wire tracer should also work on metal pipe.
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Wall ScannerIt can detect through 3 inches and it shows what's actually behind the wall as well. If your water pipes are made of metal then you can use simple metal detector to detect route of your pipes. If you have to rely on cutting into the drywall, make sure you perform what is called a pumpkin cut, explained at 3:00 in this video . Of course if your place is plumbed with plastic that doesn't help you. These options rely on equipment that you may not have, however, so perhaps you'd like to avoid spending $100+.
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How to reattach a tub overflow pipe that is offset from the tub I recently discovered that the overflow drain that is supposed to be connected to the overflow outlet on my bathtub is...well, not. Taking off the cover of the overflow outlet, I see the pipe freestanding and disconnected, a couple of inches away from the hole. This explains that strange waterfall sound I heard while taking a bath a few months ago, but more importantly I want to fix it now that I know about it. There is no access panel (which, since the whole bathroom was renovated by a big box store right before we bought it, is yet another item on the list of "You've Got To Be Kidding Me"). To complicate matters, the pipe is offset from the tub hole by about an inch. The drain pipe is sitting higher than the hole of the tub. This is probably why they didn't hook it up to begin with. What I need is to fix this; reattach the drain pipe to the overflow hole in the tub. What I want is to fix this without cutting an access panel or basically any plumbing of any kind. Any ideas? <Q> All you need is a thick wire that can be bent into a U-shape at one end. <S> Place the cover back into the outlet hole, insert the U-shaped wire into the outlet pipe and try to grab the outlet pipe to hold it in place. <S> Lift the outlet pipe and slowly screw the top cover to the outlet. <S> Tighten the top cover to the outlet pipe with a pair of pliers. <A> Is there any flex in the overflow pipe? <S> You may be able to pull it to the opening, but don't force it. <S> Install a gasket between the tub and the pipe, and re-attach it. <S> I guarantee you that this will be frustrating and annoying, but it is possible. <S> An extra pair of hands will help. <A> A series of screws, the first one long enough to reach the tube, each one 1/4 inch shorter than the next, until you get to the correct length screw. <S> On the other side, use the next shorter screw, pulling the tube just a bit closer. <S> Alternate between the left and right sides until snugged.
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First install a new gasket and then starting with the long screw, screw it down until it bottoms out.
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Is an LED light strip safe to use under a bed? I see a lot of RGB LED light strips being sold on sites like Amazon etc. The lights appear to be of decent quality, run off of 12V but do need up to 5-6 Amps to power. This is a lot of current, so I'm wondering if they are safe to use under my bed. Two concerns that I have is the possibility of an electrical shock and the strip/module catching fire and lighting me up in my sleep. How can I avoid these risks in my project? This is the LED light strip/controller/power supply I'm interested in: <Q> You won't be able to shock yourself with 12v, but you can shock yourself with whatever power supply you find that'll do 5A at 12v. <S> Assuming you'll only use one strip at 6a just grab a laptop power supply (I'd recommend this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812203037 ) - that way you really don't need to worry about whatever engineering decisions went into building that laptop power supply. <S> If you cleanly splice the wires, you won't have any issues. <S> Solder them correctly, twisting them to have a mechanical connection and soldering to have an electrical connection.. then heat shrink it. <S> This project could easily be the fusion of 2 well engineered products to do something cool without any risks! <S> Have fun! <A> By creating a project box to store the connections you will be fine. <S> The project box will need adequate heat dispersion capabilities because the drivers for LED's are what gives off the most heat. <S> It is imposible for the lights to catch on fire since they give off such a low level of heat that it is unnoticeable. <A> I am into club lighting and intelligent lighting in general and have done a few installs now which use led strips as the main component. <S> While researching all of the options available to power the strips I discovered the perfect solution if you are using multiple strips...buy a CCTV power supply box. <S> You can find them relatively cheap on Ebay. <S> Here is an example: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=110&cp_id=11009&cs_id=1100902&p_id=6876&seq=1&format=2 <S> keep in mind this solution works best when you are using smaller pieces of strip because you have to be sure not to go over the amperage of the power supply. <S> If you really want to do it right <S> you can mount one of these boards in the box with it: http://celestialaudio.com/ca_dmx_32_V2_nfet/index.html And then control all of the different zones with something like this: <S> http://www.nicolaudie.com/en/stick-gu2.htm <S> Here is a video of an LED bartop I installed which uses 5 Microsoft Kinects to make it interactive. <S> ;) http://www.vimeo.com/52143283 <A> i have a 12V DC 2A power supply powering a three meters led strips SMD 3528 60LEDs <S> /m rated at 12VDC. <S> I originally intended to put these leds in a plastic bottle but after test run it for less than 5 minutes, the led strips get quite hot, hence I abandon the project.
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The LEDs will not give off enough heat to catch on fire or burn your bed, ever. They come with the power supply already mounted inside and also include multiple outputs along with built in fuses for each one.
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What is the typical water pressure for a sprinkler system outside a home? What is the typical water pressure for a sprinkler system outside a home? <Q> Not clear what the reason for the question is. <S> However, nominal water pressure for most residential homes is in the range of 40-70 psi (pounds per square inch). <S> Most heating systems and water heaters require pressure reducing valves in order to make sure that the water pressure into those systems does not get too high which can cause damage. <S> In special situations, where the home is far from the water source and/or on high ground, a water pump may be necessary to maintain a reasonable pressure. <S> Getting back to your question, are you talking about a sprinkler system for watering a lawn or a sprinkler systems for putting out a fire. <S> In any case, both systems will have minimum pressure requirements based on how many sprinkler heads are in the system. <S> Too many heads would prevent either type of system from working properly. <A> For yard sprinklers (irrigation) <S> this is usually figured the other way around. <S> Find out what your water supply is capable of, then build a system which will work well within that. <S> If you have an existing system and you're trying to find an estimate without measuring... <S> every system is different. <S> There's not a standard pressure. <S> To find our what your supply pressure is, there are methods of measuring and calculating , or you can call your water supplier and see if they know (frequently they have nearby pressure measures for fire hydrants). <S> The end result is typically somewhere between 40-60 PSI. <S> If it gets much above 60, you may need a pressure regulator for your yard (I needed one for my install this spring) which will typically bring the pressure down to 60. <S> If sprinkler pressure is much higher than that, it can cause shudder in the pipes which can weaken them over time. <S> Too low may involve pumps to fix, I'm not familiar. <A> If you are asking about landscape irrigation, two important pieces of data are water pressure and flow rate. <S> Although many parts of a system can operate over a wide range of water pressures, the nozzles are designed for and perform best around 30 or 40 PSI. <S> The problem with low pressure is obvious but excessive high pressure can cause misting and otherwise waste water and shorten the life of the system. <S> A pressure regulator is a good solution for high pressure but note the maximum flow rate and check for compatibility. <S> For example, I have one in my system with a max of 480 gallons per hour or 8 gallons per minute. <S> Note that even if the static water pressure is sufficient, overloading your water supply with a higher flow rate than it can support will cause the water pressure to drop. <S> It is important to maintain the desired pressure at the operating flow rate for proper coverage. <S> However, it is the static water pressure that affects the life of your valves and pipes. <S> Rainbird is one of many companies that provides copious free information on their web site. <S> If you are designing a new system, you should look into the MultiStream MultiTrajectory Rotors (MSMTR) as they perform better than conventional nozzles. <S> Both Rainbird and Hunter have these products.
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It can vary due to the distance from the home to the water source (such as a water tower), how much water is being used by surrounding homes (higher usage will lower the pressure), the capacity of the water company to maintain pressure as usage varies, etc.
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Is there a device that will allow a bathroom fan to run for 5 minutes after it is switched off? There is one switch that controls the lights and fan in the bathroom. Users turn the light/fan on when they enter, and off when they leave. I'd like for the bathroom fan to run for a time after they leave, after turning off the lights. Is there a device, some sort of delay relay perhaps, that would help me do this without altering user behavior? <Q> You want a timer switch. <S> They are quite common. <S> As Tester101 states, you have to make sure the switch is either: <S> a. rated for the load of the motor (most should be for a standard fan) or, if not... <S> b. <S> you need to have the switch control a relay, which in turn will turn the fan off/on. <S> I did this to install the lutron timers that I like on a ceiling heater unit (which was more of a load than the fan): <A> This is the first one that I found on a Google search <S> Fan Delay Timer Switch <S> I have not used this product before. <A> I find is strange it is not already fitted with one. <S> Fan timers that run of the lighting circuits have been around for a long time and they are very standard in all homes and commercial property. <S> You do get standalone timers that you can add to the fan <S> but they are a lot less common. <S> It might be more cost effective to just replace the fan unit as they are fairly cheap. <S> I would hope also you have a triple pole isolator as well <S> but since it does not have the timer control it makes me dubious that you would. <S> They are meant to be fitted within a close distance of the fan itself. <A> I see that this is an old post, but in case someone is still looking, here is a switch that will switch both the light and the fan on and switch the light off and delay the fan off which I believe is exactly what the poster is looking for http://www.goodcommonsense.net/aismtirosw.html
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You are looking for a "delayed off switch" If your fan does not have one it is normally just a case of replacing the fan itself as the timer is normally built into it.
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Is there a filter-reminder thermostat that uses run-time instead of total time? My HVAC filter is in my crawlspace and is a hassle to change. I don't want to change it more than needed. "Change it every month" is bogus advice because in some months (like May) we don't have to run the HVAC at all. I'd like a thermostat with a filter-change reminder that is based on how long the filter has been in use, not how long it has been installed. That is, I'd like only the time when the blower is on to count against the filter's lifetime. Is there a product like this? For instance, does this unit count time in this way? <Q> However, the problem is looking at a filter, their change out period is not mentioned in runtime, it just says 'every 6 months' or something like that, so it's a little tricky to convert sometimes. <S> The Radiothermostat 3M-50 (in your link) says: FILTER - AIR FILTER ALERT - <S> The 3M-50 can be programmed to remind youwhen the HVAC sytem’s air filter needs changing. <S> Touch FILTER. <S> Thedisplay will show the usage to Touch FILTER for over 3 seconds and thedisplay will change to LIMIT. <S> Touch arrows to set desired usage limitbefore filter alert comes on home screen. <S> When this limit is reached,FILTER will be on home screen and the CHECK FILTER indicator lights. <S> Limit may be set from 0 to 999 days/99 weeks; default is 90 days/12weeks. <S> Touch to reset. <S> To reset the usage back to 0, touch usagenumber <S> However, I recently installed a Trane Z-Wave thermostat and its filter reminder is based on hours. <S> As a bonus, you can implement Z-wave in your house! <S> The Filter Service screen will show the accumulated Filter Runtime hours as well as the Service Interval that will be used to trigger a filter message. <S> Any type of HVAC operation that causes the HVAC system fan to run will cause the Filter Runtime value to increase. <A> Talk to your HVAC service tech about installing a remote magnehelic gauge. <S> They cost less $100 and you can probably install it yourself. <S> When the fan runs it creates a vacum in the space between the filter and the fan. <S> This pressure difference can be measured by the gauge. <S> The higher the reading the dirtier the filter. <S> You can experiment with how dirty you want the filter to get before you change it and note the reading on the gauge. <S> The filter manufacturer may have information on when to change based on the reading. <A> The TopTech TT-N-721 and TT-721 thermostat does allow this and through the tech menu can be set from Off-2000 hours of runtime in 50 increments, and allows you to reset after the filter is changed. <S> This is roughly from off to 90 days of run time. <S> I have mine set up 1000 which is a little over 41 days of runtime, only because we have pets, which recommends more frequently changing the filter. <A> I have a Hunter model 44550 (also known as Auto Saver 550). <S> It tracks actual run time, displays run time (today, yesterday, this week, last week, since reset), and flashes FILTER after 500 hours of run time. <S> (The 500 hours for filter reminder cannot be changed.) <S> The model has been around for about 15 years but is still available. <S> Unfortunately I'm looking for a replacement, as the temperature sensor has just broken. <S> The unit is 13 years old, so I have no complaint about reliability. <S> OTOH, I no longer have much use for programmability, much less 7-day -- just makes it harder to set back when I go out of town. <S> Otherwise, though, I can still recommend it -- and unless I can find another that has all the time features, I may well replace it with the same model anyway. <A> I had a simple Honeywell thermostat that tracked blower run time, which could be used to track usage in both summer and winter. <S> I believe the 3rd generation Nest thermometer has this capability as well.
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Some programmable thermostats do base their filter reminder on run time.
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Why won't my new water valves turn on? Alright I just replaced my bathroom sink and faucet had some problems but managed through. Turned my water back on and the went back to the bathroom sink to turn the valves on but they won't turn. The valves are brand new quarter turn Sharkbite stop valves. What could I have done wrong? Both valves are in exactly the same state, they just won't turn. <Q> Based on the above discussion and my own experience: Turn the water off and twist hard. <S> New ball valves can be sticky, and the house water pressure behind the valve could be making that situation worse. <S> Apparently this worked for the original poster. <A> I had this problem and after some playing around I did the following. <S> The tap had a little screw that holds the cover handle thingie that you grip and turn. <S> I undid the screw, took off the handle thingie and then turned the faucet off and on a few times with a wrench on the brass stick. <S> It was just stuck turning the first time. <S> I couldn't get enough torque using the handle thingie. <S> Once I had turned it off and on a few times with a wrench, it was fine <S> and I could then put the cover thingie back on and turn it easily. <A> One big reason this happens is that most people open the valve all the way open. <S> When this is done, it will cause the shutoff to be stick and possibly leak later in it's life. <S> Always open the value all the way and then turn it back (off) a 1/6 or 1/4 turn so it's not "locked" in the open position. <S> This pertains to these types of values (if this images showup) <S> Value Type <S> One Value Type Two <A> Take your time with these valves when they are mated to PEX as too much force could damage nearby fittings.
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The 1/4 turn valves from my experience are often affected by water pressure and shutting of the main, and draining the lines a bit will often help.
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Which type of paint would allow the easiest touch ups? We rent out a flat and wish to be able to touch up the walls between tenants. I have used paint from the same tin to do the touch-ups but it is lighter then the paint that has been on the walls for 3 years. (The paint in the tin still looked OK after that time and had not gone off.) So what paint system can I use the next time I decorate so the paint will be easy to touch up without showing? (We are in the UK if it makes a difference) <Q> In addition to using the same tin, make sure you're feathering the new paint into the old. <S> This will make any color changes harder to see. <A> I've read that the more glossy a paint finish is, the worse it is to disguise touch-ups. <S> The issue is the fact that the molecules that reflect light build up and make the touched up area more glossy than the rest of the wall. <S> So, flat paint is the best for touch-ups; higher gloss paint is best for scrubbing and cleaning. <S> That's another flip-side: when you scrub, you dull the gloss. <S> I do this at home with satin paint on all my walls: <S> I touch up an area, then use a Mr. Clean Eraser to buff the area a little to make sure it is not more glossy than the rest of the wall. <A> Paint takes quite a while to cure, during which the color typically darkens. <S> Some brands might do this to varying degrees <S> but it is common to all paints. <S> Whites tend to yellow which can make the difference more noticeable. <S> As well, if you have smokers in your building, the paint will stain over time. <S> You are already on the right track by using paint from the original tin - every tin will be slightly different, even if its the same color from the same company. <S> Aside from repainting the entire wall, I don't think there is very much you can do. <A> Short answer flat. <S> The unfortunate thing is flat tend to require more touch up as you can't wipe things off like you can with paints that have a sheen. <S> 3 years I would just repaint the walls but if you are really against it here's what I would do. <S> Use flat paint or an eggshell at the most and re-roll the walls with a thin quick coat. <S> You can get away without cutting in the outlets, baseboards and ceiling. <S> If you use flat you can probably touch it up with a small nap roller pretty good just feather it out <S> really well.
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If the paint has faded significantly, I'd just repaint the entire wall.
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Is it alright that I did not turn off the power while installing my thermostat? I just installed the Nest thermostat , I forgot to turn the breaker off everything seems to be working fine. Is it safe to assume it is ok? <Q> Did you get shocked? <S> If it turns on, it's likely fine; modern electronics have fuses to prevent surge damage. <S> Just...don't do that next time. <A> The short answer is no <S> , it's not OK - you increased your risk of electrocution and that's never a good thing specially for a DIYer. <S> Now that being said, everything is working and you didn't burn down your house, <S> so you got off OK, but generally speaking, this was a bad idea. <S> The Nest happens to run 24V systems <S> so there isn't too much electricity there (though you can still get zapped - car batteries are only 12V after all), but some systems are line voltage, in which case, you would have been in for a really rude surprise. <S> In the USA this is typicall 120V <S> but it could be over 200V in Europe or in some other systems - <S> that could give you serious burns or even kill you! <S> The other risk was that you could have shorted something out and damaged the controller in your furnace; this would likely be a costly repair and left you without HVAC until it is fixed. <A> However, there is a high risk of letting some of the thermostat wires in the bundle touch while doing this (the wrong ones) which would cause a short/surge back to the controller board. <S> Luckily, most recent HVAC controllers have a fuse to protect the controller board from this exact scenario. <S> Google your specific model number and look for the 'installation/repair' manual which will detail the specifics. <S> In my case, it was a 3 amp blade fuse, which I actually found at a car parts store - <S> it's not as easy to find at Home Depot or the like. <S> Obviously, some troubleshooting in that manual you will most likely not be able to do (involving refrigerant or other things), but it will also most likely detail for you the blinks on the controller board that will help you localize the issue. <A> I come from the school that anytime you are dealing with electronics, always turn the power off. <S> Even if you are careful with the wires you can still cause problems. <S> Arcing a wire repeatedly will cause heat, which is the worst enemy of electronics, easily happens when wiring hot when you are making contact with the wire and the post, where it hooks up. <S> While some may argue that 24V or fuses might allow damage, I say do by the instructions, which I'm sure will say turn off power.
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It's "ok" in that if it works, you're probably in the clear.
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Can I use leveling compound between plywood and cement backer board? I'd like to install slate tiles over a pre-existing plywood floor. The plywood floor is 3/4" and sits on joists. There's a dip about 3/8" deep by 2 feet wide by 5 feet long. My plan was to fill it with self-leveling compound, before installing the cement backerboard and then the tiles. However, the guys at the tile store seem oddly negative about using self-leveling compound. Is there any reason not to? If so, what are my alternatives? <Q> Yeah not sure I share their opinion. <S> I did it <S> 5 or 6 years ago and everything is still good. <S> Just make sure that you use long enough screws in the area with the dip to hit the subfloor. <A> Plywood is not the best substrate for self leveling compound. <S> You can do it but for me its very ify. <S> I'll only put self leveling compound over plywood if the floor has zero to no flex, give, or movement in the subfloor. <S> Look at it this way if your floor starts shifting or moves every time you walk on it your leveler will flex and start to crack and break. <S> I would simply put down the backerboard with thinset under the backer board then screw, NOT nail it down. <S> Simply build your thinset up enough so your tiles will be flat all the way across your dip. <A> The only thing I can think of is: what if your floor is mostly flat (except for the dip), but not truly level? <S> Layers of thinset would allow you to build up the dip so that it's parallel to your floor. <S> By contrast, leveling compound will dry level, but if your floor isn't level, that may not help you.
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If you are putting backerboard over the leveler then that is an easy answer: all the screws will just bust the leveler and will not work!
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After installing expansion tank, massive buildup of pressure then a trickle? I am completely stumped. You guys helped me out a lot with my previous question here: What could be causing water to drip from the relief valve of my new gas water heater? Turns out the expansion tank bladder was filled with water and needed to be replaced. I got a new 2 gallon 100 psi max expansion tank but before putting it on I measured the water pressure at around 100 psi which seemed awfully high to me. When I turned a faucet on the pressure would drop to around 50 psi and I would get a steady stream of moderate pressure. It seemed to steady at around 68 psi so I used that as a good starting point. Instructions that came with the tank said to install at 2 psi below normal cutoff pressure. Thinking that was awfully specific, I set the air pressure in the new tank to 65 psi and installed it. I ran the faucets a LOT to make sure I got all the air pockets out but now I notice bizarre fluctuations in my water pressure for the past few days. I have normal water pressure in the basement, acceptable water pressure on the first floor, and virtually NO pressure at all on the upstairs floor, where this was never a problem before. Leaving the gauge on downstairs the pressure would slowly continue to rise as high as 100 psi at times EVEN AFTER seriously turning the pressure regulator back. When I turn the water on I get a good stream of water then 5 seconds later nothing but a trickle as the water pressure only reads 20 psi when the water is running. So now I only see four possibilities: The gauge is broke, there is no flippin way that I have my pressure regulator turned back that far and actually have 100psi build up in the pipes all the way from 20 psi. The pressure regulator is broke, it is extremely old looking and doesn't have a PSI reading on it, just a hex bolt head that when turned out will decrease the pressure. The new expansion tank is defective and slowly leaking air into the system causing me to have almost no pressure upstairs I set the air pressure too high/low in the new expansion tank and it is causing havoc with my internal pressure. About the only positive thing I can say about everything is that my safety relief valve on the water heater is no longer leaking water so I must have done something right. Maybe I just need to increase the pressure to the house but if my pressure increases to 100 psi slowly while the water heater runs and I have an expansion tank rated for 100 psi then I am afraid I could be creating a dangerous situation. Any suggestions? I am going crazy over this and I stink because I can't take a proper shower ;) <Q> Sorry to hear about your "odor" problem. <S> Maybe there is a local public fountain you can take a dip into!!! <S> However, the problems you describe are fairly common, but may be tricky to isolate. <S> Let's try some basics: <S> Relieve the pressure from the bladder completely. <S> Let the well pump fill the tank completely and bleed any air from the system using the faucets with the pump running. <S> Again, with the tank full of water, close all outlets and charge up the bladder to about 60PSI. <S> Most systems work fine between 45 to 65 PSI. <S> Anything over 70 is pushing it. <S> The tank needs to be charged when full, not empty. <S> Monitor the pressure as you draw water. <S> Does the pump kick on constantly when the pressure reaches the low limit, and off at the high limit? <S> This will help tell if the regulator is working properly. <S> Is there any pulsating water pressure at the faucets? <S> When you are sure you have a full tank, no air in the system, is your second floor water flow ample when the tank is reading 60psi? <S> There are a few "if's" here. <S> Depending on how the pump behaves and the pressure responds, you have to determine if the problem is with the pump and volume of water being delivered to the tank, or if the pressure regulator is properly operating. <S> If you are still seeing any pulsating water pressure at the taps, then the bladder is water logged again. <S> If the bladder pressure drops too quickly, then most likely the volume of water from the pump is low. <S> The pressure should remain fairly constant at the tank if all the functions of the pump and regulator are working properly. <S> Good Luck <A> If you're seeing it climb to 100psi while the water heater isn't running, then the pressure regulator is broken. <S> If it's climbing to 100psi while the water heater is running but stays at normal levels all other times, the expansion tank isn't working. <S> Maybe it's defective, or maybe it's not installed properly. <S> It's also possible the tank is undersized for your hot water heater. <S> A common place to check for blockages are valves that you hadn't used in a long time but recently shutoff and reopened and aerators or filters in the fixtures. <S> I'd also take a 5 gallon bucket, place it under your best faucet, and see how fast you can fill it. <S> Then compare that time to how long it takes to do the same at your neighbor's home. <S> Use process of elimination to track down any blockage. <S> If it's every faucet, then you probably have a problem on your main line. <S> If it's only one fixture, then check it's valves, aerator, and any filter. <A> Municipal Water systems require a Pressure Reducing Valve (PRV). <S> It is not recommended to have the house psi above 90. <S> 70 is the norm in most municipal systems. <S> An expansion tank is needed if there is a check valve installed on the in line. <S> If there is a water meter, there is an excellent chance of one being installed. <S> Many water utilities mandate check valves, or also known as RPZ's on their systems, also. <S> An expansion tank is needed after the meter/check valve. <S> This is due to the expansion of water in the heater (or boiler). <S> If the water pressure drops considerably while running a faucet, it is probably due to a faulty PRV. <S> Adjusting the PRV by turning the adj. <S> screw counterclockwise reduces the psi. <S> Clockwise increases the pressure. <S> (most PRV's). <S> If the pressure is too high, it can wreck even a new expansion tank. <S> Too low of psi, and the bladder will never "squish" to take up expansion. <S> The psi on the in line psi after the PRV, and the precharge on the expansion tank should be the same. <S> 1st step. <S> Check gage after PRV for static water psi read. <S> (nothing running) <S> If the psi is higher than 70, adjust it. <S> Run the water and then turn it off, and read the gage. <S> Repeat as necessary. <S> If the proper static psi cannot be achieved (by staying where you had it reading, and not climbing), then condemn and replace the PRV. <S> 2nd step - install a precharged to house psi expansion tank. <S> Run the water and observe. <S> There will be a psi drop as water runs. <S> It should not be a large drop. <S> That would mean a partially closed valve somewhere or an obstruction. <S> When the water is off, the psi should only return to the set 70 psi. <S> Not climb higher. <S> Again, that means a defective PRV. <S> Hope the class helps.
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If you have full pressure upstairs, but just not enough flow, then you may have a blockage in your pipes.
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How do I choose a circular saw? I've made do with hand tools for everything including the rare plywood job for several years now and I want to buy a good circular saw. I will not use it very often, but when I do it will be for serious work like plywood sheets or stair treads. Is there any specific features or brands I should look for? I want a relatively lightweight saw (probably means a sidewinder) but powerful enough to cut hardwood and possibly sheet metal easily. I would also prefer one where things like blade depth are easy to adjust. PS I'm left-handed if that makes a difference. <Q> As far as brands go, I trust DeWalt, Milwaukee, and Skil. <S> There are probably more, but those are the ones I've had experience with. <S> Are you going for a cordless saw <S> , that can be more portable, and good for the occasional plywood cutting project, or a corded one? <S> Usually the corded ones have more power, and a higher duty cycle. <A> It's been a while since I've been to job sites, but a few years ago the tool of choice was a Milwaukee Worm Drive circular saw . <S> Things might have changed with well known brands switching to plastic gears, but the torque on these doesn't get much better. <S> They are also well known for having less kick-back problems. <S> My opinion is to stay away from cordless. <A> The pros (and experienced amateurs) here may laugh at me, but... I've actually had really good experience with Rigid tools (the home depot "house brand") - including a circ saw, power mitre, cordless drill, and oscillating tool. <S> For me, they struck a very good balance of features, cost, and "solid feel". <S> I use them for occasional home projects, so I can't speak to their long-term durability/reliability. <S> So far they've all survived a moderate-size retaining wall (6x6 landscape ties) project, a solid hardwood floor project, an engineered-flooring project, and misc small projects - and have served me well through all of them <A> There are two main types of circular saws, Worm-Drive and Sidewinder. <S> Worm-drives are more powerful and heavy-duty general speaking. <S> However, this comes with added weight. <S> Sidewinder saws are not quite as powerful but are lighter and cheaper, and for most DIY jobs are more than sufficient. <S> Battery powered saws might have smaller diameter blades which will limit the depth that you can cut. <S> As the other answers have mentioned, you can also choose between corded and cordless though most circular saws will be of the corded type. <S> Another features which may or may not be important is the ability to cut on a bevel - you will need to decide if this is needed for your uses. <S> After that you start getting into "toys" like laser guides, built in lights, etc. <S> that add cost but aren't really critical to the tools abilities. <A> Make sure you buy carbide tipped blades. <S> It will make all the difference. <S> A great saw with a cheap blade = <S> a cheap saw. <A> AND OTHERS.MY DAD HAS HAD 3 SAWS <S> OVER THE YEARS OLD ROCKWELL WHICH <S> WE SOLD BUT <S> WAS <S> GOOD.HE CURRENTLY HAS 2 SAWS <S> A <S> 2HP CRAFTSMAN WHICH IS GREAT AND A 2/1/2 HP PORTER CABLE.I <S> HAVE NEVER <S> REALLY <S> LIKED WORM DRIVES BECAUSE THEY ARE LOUDER AND <S> SLOWER.BUT <S> THAT IS JUST ME.
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If you are going to be doing a lot of cuts, you likely want a worm-drive one. Blade size is also important, the standard being 7 1/4". I WOULD SAY READ THE REVIEWS OF SAWS IN LIKE FINE HOMEBUILDING,WOOD,HANDYMAN,TOOLS OF THE TRADE
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How can I improve hvac air flow to my attic? Two years ago I converted the attic of my 1.5 story house into a livable space. It had no HVAC ducts going up, so I ran some coming from the basement where the furnace is. Air flow to the attic via the ducts is really low. I would say it's at least 10 times weaker than the first floor air flow. This isn't so bad in the winter because there's computers and a projector that emit heat (as well as radiant heat coming from the first floor). I had a new central air system installed a few months ago, and since the flow is so bad upstairs, I'm forced to put the old window unit back in, which really bums me out. I installed two duct fans in the attic to try and improve the air flow, but it only marginally improved things. Not enough to make any difference. Is there anything else I can do? <Q> I've got a similar challenge, though not to your extreme, and here's what I have done. <S> First, learn how to adjust the baffles on the ducts. <S> In the summer, you want as much as possible going to the high floors, and the reverse in the winter. <S> For me, it made little difference until I pushed it all the way. <S> Next, exclude any rooms you don't need to heat <S> /cool, e.g. a guest room or storage space in the basement. <S> Shut the door and close the vents to reduce the effort you're putting on the HVAC. <S> Finally, I swapped out my return grille with models that accept a filter (they are hinged and open after releasing two small clips). <S> These return grilles are special orders from the big box stores, but they carry them. <S> I still leave a thin blue "rock catcher" filter directly on my HVAC blower itself. <S> The idea being to suck out as much air as possible from location that needs it. <S> This means that switching between heat and cool is a process, flipping the baffles and swapping in and out filters. <S> But a little effort is better than a lot of sweating. <S> One last suggestion, since it sounds like you're running a small server farm in your attic. <S> Either move that down to the basement, or consider replacing the window unit with a ductless mini-split system. <S> You get to see out the window, and these systems have configurable thermostats. <A> Even a correctly done duct size calculation will not be completely accurate <S> but in this case, it's very clear the attic duct sizes are wrong and are much too small. <S> Having said that, running new and bigger ducts might be a major project. <S> Another option is to put booster fans near the source rather than in the attic. <S> In a restricted flow condition, you can get more airflow by pushing than by pulling. <S> Consider a vacuum cleaner. <S> If you plug its intake, it doesn't matter how many horsepower it has. <S> The maximum pressure you can have by pulling is 15 PSI. <S> But there is no practical limit to the pressure you get by pushing. <S> 30, 45, 60 PSI are all possible with enough horsepower. <S> Here's a quick intro to High velocity air distribution systems: <S> http://www.toolbase.org/TechInventory/techDetails.aspx?ContentDetailID=617 <S> Maybe something like this 530 CFM fan: http://www.amazon.com/High-Velocity-Inline-Duct-Fan-6/dp/B002EC01XS <A> I didn't see the reply posts, but to improve air flow and control airflow from room to room for a balanced system install manual dampers on the supply runs throughout your home. <S> You can then close dampers and adjust airflow room to room, which will push more to other areas. <S> It will fix rooms that are too cold or too hot. <S> You could also close off registers, and do the same thing if the ductwork is sized correctly and that's a big if. <S> Most ductwork in homes isn't sized correctly and too much pressure is created through undersized ducts, and your airflow can get loud as you close off grills. <S> Try that or install manual dampers, which is better to do anyway because you can control the amount of air to your rooms and push more air upstairs. <S> I see this problem all the time, even in new houses today which is why we always install dampers on supply runs just so we can control airflow, and hopefully you ran a big enough supply duct to your upstairs as well. <S> I'll guess that it should be a 10-12" duct based on 2-3 rooms upstairs.
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The ideal solution would be to make the attic ducts much bigger and put dampers on every duct so that you can rebalance your airflow when you switch from cooling to heating and back. Get someone to feel the air coming out while you're pushing the baffle all the way to one side or another. First, realize that with a single zone system and multiple floors, it's difficult to get the temperature correct everywhere. Also, since you mentioned this was an attic space, you're likely against the roof and getting heat from every wall plus from the computers and people in the space. And I put a filter in every return except the upstairs in the summer and downstairs in the winter. In short, you're fighting a losing battle.
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What exactly is doorskin? I've used it in a boat-building workshop, but I'm not clear on what "doorskin" is. Is it just plywood made of a single ply? What is its intended purpose? Is it sold at building supply stores that have plywood? The one suggestion I've seen for DIY house work is to use it when building a ripping guide for a circular saw. You attach a reliable straightedge (like a factory-edged strip of plywood) to a piece of doorskin, then cut the doorskin with a saw. The reason for using doorskin is that you don't lose much of the cutting depth of the saw blade. I tried Google, Wikipedia, homedepot.com, and lowes.com, and couldn't find it. Maybe my google-fu is weak today. <Q> I would imagine that it is luan sheets. <S> Luan is used to 'skin' hollow core doors. <S> It can also be used in other applications as a 'skin' when trying to create a light rigid platform with an internal skeleton of framework(much like a hollow core door or assembly table) <A> You apply a door skin to an interior door that is banged up, but still intact. <S> It is usually 1/8" thick, and comes in 80" a length to match ordinary interior door height. <S> The width is variable, to match your door width (i.e., 32", 36" etc). <S> Get a skin to match the door's dimensions (e.g. 80" <S> x 32"). <S> If the skin is larger than the door, you have to trim off the excess after glueing on the skin, using a router. <S> This is similar to applying plastic laminate to a counter, only it's not plastic, but thin wood. <S> Take the door off its hinges. <S> Take off the door knob. <S> Dry fit the skin onto the door, for proper fit. <S> Apply panelling adhesive to the back of the skin, and place the skin onto the door. <S> Run a wallpaper roller with pressure lengthwise and crosswise over the door, to assure proper adhesion. <S> This works better than contact cement, because you can move the skin around a bit with panelling adhesive. <S> After 24 hours, use a circle cutter to cut a hole on the skin-side to match the original hole in the door. <S> (If the skin was too wide for the door, trim off the excess with a router.) <S> Re-attach the knob, and re-hang the door. <S> If the other side of the door is also banged-up, apply a second skin on that side. <A> Framed with 1x3s and braced, it makes a solid, light-weight wall that doesn't have to stand the test of time. <A> Door skins USED to be Luan plywood, recently I purchased 15 of them from Lowes, sight unseen and had to pay first due to "ordering". <S> My intent was to use them as ceiling panels on my boat. <S> They arrived edges all beat up, were made of press board with a micro thin piece of Luan almost printed on one side, got green and moldy less than one week I stored them in my garage. <S> Be very careful, not what they used to be. <S> They used to be plywood but now they are flimsy press board.
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Door skin is also used in theater set building.
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Why would there be a 50 amp plug on a 30 amp appliance? I have an old conveyor dryer, which my office purchased used some time ago, just sitting in storage. The dryer is for silk screen t-shirts and has a large heating element and a variable speed conveyor that runs underneath, rather like a small pizza oven. I'm interested in getting it running, but I'm perplexed about the plug and circuit requirements. The panel on the side of the dryer indicates that the full load amp is 30 amps. So why would the plug be a NEMA 14-50R, which handles 50 amps? All the 220 outlets on the building have 30 amp breakers and run 10 gauge wire. Will I need to have someone install new breakers and run 8 gauge just for this dryer even though it says it won't pull more than 30 amps? <Q> 30 amps is where a 30 amp breaker should cut off, and to avoid that, you should only use 80% of the breaker's capacity. <S> So for a 30 amp breaker, you shouldn't be using more than 24 amps. <S> Using a 50 amp breaker and a dedicated outlet ensures that you don't exceed the capacity of the circuit with that appliance. <A> The fact that a 30-amp device is shipped with a 50-amp plug shouldn't bother you at all. <S> The most likely reasons for the "overkill" plug are the following: <S> the manufacturer decided that it won't hurt to have a better ampacity plug - some extra reliability just in case <S> and it doesn't really cost much <S> the manufacturer used 50-amp plugs for all his high-power devices just to simplify the logistics (also see this similar question on Electronics SE ). <A> What if it's actually a 30A appliance? <S> Here's the thing. <S> Usually when people just slapdash off "30A appliance" for appliances that are *actually 21-24 amps... <S> A/C, water heater, or dryer. <S> But suppose the appliance is actually honest 30 amps. <S> So our 30A appliance actually needs 37.5A <S> provisioned . <S> Round up to 40A wire and breaker. <S> But hold on. <S> Nobody makes a 40A plug and socket . <S> Codebook says you use a 50A socket for that. <S> NEC 210.21(B)(2). <S> So, your 30A (actual, nameplate) appliance having a 50A socket is completely normal. <A> If it's a piece of industrial/commercial equipment, then the odds are high that someone replaced the plug or entire cord at some point in time. <S> This type of equipment gets modified all the time, and not necessarily the correct way. <S> I just went back and re-read your question... <S> I wouldn't run the circuit at full capacity, even if it is a dedicated circuit. <S> I would rely on the legend plate for the accurate power requirement spec and not the cord end. <A> Besides other possibilities some already mentioned in this trend, given that it was bought already used, another possibility is that where it was working originally they had installed a 14-50R and preferred to change the male plug; or, maybe they were not using a dedicated circuit and the fuse would blow or the breaker open <S> and they decided to change fuse and breaker from 30 to 50 <S> and then the plug too. <S> There are a good number of possible speculations about the matter, but the practical point would be, is what I would do, to connect the dryer with a 14-30P cord, but without working load for a work cycle and see if the breaker trips, if no problems are seen then turn it on again now with full working load and wait and see. <S> If there are still no worries, there is no need to change anything more than the plug; if with or without working load the fuse and or breaker open, then the machine needs a careful examination of its connections, motor and wiring, looking for shortcuts or burned up electric elements, or mechanical problems that could be overloading the motor. <S> As ppumkin said, a device marked to draw 30A maximum <S> should not at all run over that, so to re-wire in 8 gauge and install 50A breakers <S> would just be inviting catastrophe if there's some problem underlying, or if there isn't any would be an idle and wasteful expense.
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a 50 amp plug is probably appropriate for a 30 amp equipment... If you are not confident enough to switch the plug your self to one that is compatible with your supply outlets (and meets the spec for the equipment) then an electrician should be able to do it for a very reasonable price (and he could inspect the used equipment for other electrical safety issues at the same time). Most appliances must be derated by 125% when provisioning service (this is the same as the 80% thing, just tucked inside out).
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How do I clean gutters? I am trying to clean the gutters of my house. Is there any special ladder that I need to use to do that? Do I also need some other tools? Any reference link or pictures will be highly appreciated. I don't want to hire gutter cleaners as it looks pretty simple job (but still that could be my misunderstanding.) I also found this question here but it is about how to clean gutters while staying on the ground. I don't have such requirement. <Q> If you have a two-story house or are wary of cleaning the gutters from a one-story roof, then you have two options: As BMitch has said, get a stabilizer bar (~$25-75 <S> ; I recommend thisone as it is easy to adjust and has no nuts and bolts that youcan accidentally misplace) and an extension ladder (if you are a biton the heavy side, get fiberglass; fiberglass ladders are heavierbut stronger.) <S> This will make your ladder more stable, as ladderscan very easily slide along the gutters, leading to a fall. <S> Despitethis additional stability, you should avoid becoming too confidentand leaning over instead of getting down and moving the ladder. <S> Remember to slope the ladder correctly. <S> The easiest way to get thisright is to put your toes against each foot of the ladder and putyour hands out, straight forward. <S> You should be able to touch theladder, but just barely. <S> When moving a ladder that's already setupon the roof, it's easiest to stand underneath it, between the baseof the ladder and the house. <S> This keeps the ladder's center ofgravity above you. <S> Watch how this fireman lifts the ladder,starting at 2:56 . <S> Pause the video at 3:01 and imagine that thebuilding is behind him, and all he would do to move the ladder atthat point is to take a few steps to the side and place it backdown. <S> Another option is to remove the material from the roof, wearing aharness for fall protection. <S> You will need a harness, lanyard,rope, and something to attach the rope to. <S> You can get all of thisfor $100-200. <S> ( Example ) Make sure you wear the leg strapspretty tight, as they can slide up into and damage your thingamajooif you fall when they're loose. <S> As far as what tools to use, whatever gets the job done. <S> Hands (gloves recommended), small hand shovel, or maybe something like this . <S> A broom will also work. <S> If you're working from a ladder, you should reach for a tool with a short handle. <S> If you're working from the roof, you should get something with a long handle. <S> If there's any sand/dirt buildup in the gutters, hit it with the garden hose. <A> With some PVC pipe fittings from the home improvement store, I have built a homemade attachment for my leaf blower that redirects the air to blow out leaves from my gutters. <S> Finding the proper sized fittings can be tricky but it works great for first floor gutters <S> and I don't even have to get out the ladder. <S> When I am finished I just remove the attachment (by unscrewing the radiator clamps that hold it tight to the leaf blower) and use my leaf blower to clean up the yard as usual. <A> This is a resource that tells you everything you need to know about cleaning your gutters <S> (how, when, and why): Home Maintenance: About Cleaning Your Gutters <S> Many things can cause gutter damage, including: water damage, being too full, ice dams and vermin. <S> The National Center for Healthy Housing recommends cleaning your gutters at least twice a year, in the spring and in the fall. <S> Because you will need a ladder to clean your gutters and for safety concerns, it might be helpful to consider hiring a professional. <S> But, if you choose to do it yourself, you should always use gloves, a dust mask, safety goggles and a garden trowel. <A> If it's a one story house, you might be able to rig some sort of gutter cleaner rig and not have to deal with a ladder. <S> For the gutters that are only 1 story off the ground on my house, I took a long 2x2 and duct taped a garden trowel at a right-angle to the end. <S> I can then just scoop out the gutter from the ground with a flick of the wrist.
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I have cleaned gutters at multiple one-story houses by kneeling down from the roof, but I wouldn't risk it on a two-story house.
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How far apart are studs? I'm using a stud finder to find studs behind dry wall and so far I've found 2 and they are 16" apart. Does that mean that there will be a stud every 16" or might the distance change between studs? Is 16" the standard for stud centers? <Q> Yes, in most US residential construction they are 16" center to center. <S> Most of your standard tape measures have every 16th inch noted in red or some other way. <S> Some internal walls may also be spaced 24" on center. <S> However, there may be exceptions where a door window or odd length wall is used so be sure to verify with a stud finder or a knock on the wall to check. <A> In Australia there are two standard widths for studs. <S> 60cm (23.6") and 45cm (17.7"). <S> Builders will stick to that whenever they can, but if they need to move them or add new studs for, say, structural reasons, they will. <S> I would never ever make assumptions regarding the locations of studs. <S> What I would do is use the knowledge of your local stud standards to help me find the next stud. <S> Not sure what other nations standards are for stud distances. <A> There are at least 3 standard spacings, all based on an 8 foot (96" unit) 16" , 6 studs per 96" (usually in red on a tape measure) 19.2" , 5 studs per 96" (and there is usually a little diamond symbol on tape measures for this spacing) 24" , 4 studs per 96" (most tape measure makers think you can handle this one without additional help) <S> Due to door (frames), window (frames), plumbing, ducts, and wall-lengths, spacing may not be completely uniform. <A> This depends on whether it is a load bearing wall and what you are using for studs. <S> the rain/snow load is taken into account. <S> These widths make it easy to use 4x8 plywood or drywall for covering. <S> In the southern United States, where you do not have a snow load, you can get away with 24 inches with the sheathing for garages but for a domicile I would use 16in in all applications. <A> I have a wall that is just under 11.5'. <S> The door takes up 32". <S> The studs from the door frame to the corner of the wall have varying lengths in between them. <S> Spacings: 7.25", 13.5", 26.5", 19.5", 19" and 18.5". <S> This is measuring from the approx center of each stud. <S> This wall is made of Drywall. <S> And, these are crazily spaced! <S> Nothing about the room/wall really leans toward an answer to why. <S> Therefore, What the people said above is true: "The standard is usually 16" or 24" between studs, it can vary depending on the construction". <S> So, the best way is to tap/knock on the wall where you know a stud is, and compare that to the rest of the wall. <S> All the while using a tape measure to test 16/24" lengths. <A> Don't always trust a stud finder. <S> I always do the knock to tell. <S> Has never done me wrong. <S> Stud finders have. <S> You will always have a stud next to an outlet. <S> 16 is the standard unless you are dealing with a moble home or trailer. <A> Yes in most cases the studs are 16" apart but remember every wall is mot the same length, so the first stud coming off the corner is different. <S> It could be any measurement lesser then 16" <S> but all the studs coming off corners in the room will be the same distance from the corner
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In a load bearing wall they are normally 16in on center. In a non-load bearing wall they can be 24in and if using 2x6's they can be wider apart as long as plate and/or rafter tie-ins are used and exterior or interior sheathing, not drywall, is used to stop horizontal shear and
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