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bedroom door will not close after hinges werre changed my son kicked his bedroom from the inside and the hinges were bent forward. I changed the hinges and now the door doesn't close there is a 1/4 in between the hinges when you close the door. I just try to do things myself but I wanted to see if anyone has some suggestions thank you Kay South <Q> Make sure the hinge plates are sitting in the recessed hinge seats & are flush to the door jamb & the door edge. <S> Another cause could be that 1 or more hinges are upside down. <S> Make sure the removable pin is on top or the hinges won't close. <S> Also, you may need longer or thicker screws as the screw holes may not be holding tightly any longer. <A> This happened to me and I figured it out. <S> One of the three hinges wasn't on right. <S> It was not upside down, since the pin was at the top. <S> So if you hold a hinge, they flap in and out. <S> Mine was flapping the wrong way, even though it was upright. <S> The brand on the hinges should be facing inward, when it's up. <S> Or if you're holding it flat on your hand the brand should be on top. <S> So try installing it while flapped the opposite way. <S> Check all the hinges on the door and make sure they're all facing the same way when flapped. <A> If the hinge plates aren't flat against each other they may be bent from the door being forced closed. <S> Remove the hinge with the 1/4 inch gap to see if it closes completely. <S> Hammer them together if not and re-install. <S> It may also be the strike plate is not in-line with the door catch.
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Make certain the hinges are exactly in the door and jamb mortises (recess for the hinge).
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What is the correct way to seal/flash coolant lines through T1-11 siding? Our contractor installed an AC compressor and did a poor job of it. He ran the AC coolant lines through the middle of the wall and then just squirted some expanding foam into the hole, like so: (Click images for larger views.) What is the correct way to flash and/or seal this opening? Around here, the way its usually done on T1-11 sided houses is to pass the lines underneath, in the crawl space and through a vent, like so: But I guess that's not an option in this case? <Q> Depends on where the indoor unit is that he had to connect to, in comparison of where the other were in your neighbors house. <S> The important thing is, the tech did slope the pipe down and out of the wall at a heck of a good angle. <S> The only problem I really see is the type of sealant he used as a finish, unless the plan was to come back, carve off the excess foam and use that as a backer for a good brand od polyurethane caulk to finish sealing the hole where the pipe goes into the wall. <S> The foam does a great job of insulating around the pipe in the wall, in an otherwise difficult area to seal. <S> If the tech never comes back, all that is needed now is as mentioned before, is to clean the foam back enough to leave a small recess, say 1/4", not a "dished out" 1/4" but a clean, flat recess that has the edge of the cut exposed, not covered by a skin of foam, so the caulk bonds to the siding, not foam that will degrade over time by exposure. <S> If a little more is removed than the 1/4" I spec'd, no biggy, it is just more caulk, and it will be a little less flexible. <S> Still messy when not prepared for it. <A> Duct Seal is a common product used in the industry to seal around wall penetrations. <S> It stays soft and flexible, so it handles expansion/contraction well. <S> It's fairly easy to remove, and reapply or rework. <A> There are all kinds of options, but the cleanest are probably purpose made flashings specifically for AC lines, like these ones : <S> Note that it is very important to tie a flashing like this into the overall water-resistive barrier to the house, similar to a flanged window.
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Use tape to cover areas you do not want caulked, poly caulk is contrary, but it cleans up with paint thinner... The "vent" entrance method would only work on a raised foundation structure, the home in your picture appears to be built on a concrete slab.
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Why is my bathroom fan completely ineffective? I just moved into my first home, and the bathroom fan is 100% ineffective. I can hear the motor run when I turn it on, and I remember going into the attic with the home inspector and tracing a flexible duct from the fan fixture out to a port on the side of the house. The fan was installed when the previous owners renovated the bathroom three years ago, so it's unlikely it's worn out from age. But when I turn it on, it has absolutely no effect on the moisture in the bathroom. Water collects on the ceiling and fogs up the mirror and window. The only way to dry the bathroom out after the shower has been used is to open the window or open the hall door - both of which are very slow. If I hold up a piece of tissue to the fan fixture, it doesn't blow around at all. What can I do to fix this? Do I simply need a new fan fixture? <Q> Various things to check: <S> Is there a way for air to ENTER the bath? <S> A fan will expel air, but only when there is makeup air to replace it. <S> Make sure there is a sufficient gap under the bathroom door. <S> (An easy way to test this issue is to run the fan with and without the door open and see if there is a difference) as others have stated, make sure the fan is clean. <S> as others have stated, check the flexible vent pipe <S> consider replacing the flexible vent pipe. <S> Flexible pipes aren't very efficient in that they add a lot of resistance to the airflow and also snag lots more debris. <S> Consider replacing with rigid vents. <S> as others have stated, make sure the vent on the outside isn't clogged (e.g. bird nest in pipe). <S> consider a larger fan. <S> It could be that the fan is simply under-powered for the size of the room and length of the vent pipe. <A> I recently found two of my three bath fans had the interior damper stuck <S> shut. <S> I had checked the damper on the outside of the house, no problems, but then I stuck my fingers into the duct from the fan housing and discovered: 1) <S> there is another damper there and 2) <S> it was stuck shut! <S> One was just stuck by some old paint and freed up with a poke, the other was obstructed by a tight bend in the duct. <S> FWIW, properly-function <S> the typical Broan 688 builder fan measures <S> 8mph right at the grille with my kestrel anemometer. <A> Bath fans accumulate lint on the blades. <S> Hair spray and other aerosols exacerbate this. <S> It's inevitable. <S> It's usually a very simple task to pull the cover and the motor plate--as little as one screw holds it in place. <S> Most fan motors have cord plugs that allow easy detachment from the fan housing. <S> If that's not the issue, remove the plate and determine that the air flap on the fan housing functions as expected and is not obstructed. <A> The tissue should suck up & stick to the grill. <S> If it doesn't, then remove the grill or cover to see if the plug's cord isn't secured & caught the fan blade &/or spin the fan manually. <S> Then, go down & turn the switch on again to confirm the fan actually spins. <S> Don't put the grill or cover back on yet, I'm not nearly done. <S> If the tissue does stick nicely then you'll need to check the actual vent path as thoroughly as you can. <S> Go back to the fan & remove the plug & screw that holds the fan in place. <S> You should see a large hole with a plastic flap & the flap should swing open freely. <S> Your choice here <S> , you can remove the screws that hold the fan-box up & into the ceiling <S> or you can go up into the attic. <S> If no clog then get a much taller ladder, if you've been standing on the toilet all this time, & get a vacuum with a long hose. <S> Leave the vacuum off & feed the hose as far as it will easily go into the duct. <S> If you meet resistance, then turn on the vacuum & slowly pull out the hose, trying to feel if you caught something at that point & can pull it all of the way out. <S> If nothing at all & you're like 5-feet into the duct, then you'll have to do this further up in the attic. <S> Compress the duct to get your vacuum hose out to the outside vent head or at least closer to it & suck-up any blockages. <S> If you still couldn't reach the outside vent head, then get a long pipe to tape to the vacuum & get to that vent head. <S> If all's clear & especially was clear the whole time, then you'll have to check, clear or replace the vent head outside & you <S> might as well get a new fan for the bath after all of this effort.
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Take the box down, remembering or marking its position on the ceiling, & remove the fan-box from the vent hose or duct to visually inspect for a clog of some sort. I remove the motors from mine every few years and scrape the thick layer of gunk off them, which makes the blades round and not nearly as effective.
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What type of glue can be used to stick aluminium to plastic? I want a glue to stick aluminium to plastic. One of the plastic feet of my Macbook Pro keeps falling off. The body is aluminium and the foot is plastic. I have tried gluing it back on with cyanoacrylate glue (aka superglue) and it falls off a few weeks later. The MBP gets hot, and the feet are obviously subject to friction. I feel what it really needs is some glue that will set as rubber (so it's flexible) and yet be strong and bond to both surfaces. Any ideas what kind of glue would work best? Nothing in the DIY store I visited immediately seemed suitable. I realise I could probably get Apple to fix this at some expense, but I'm actually after some glue. <Q> some glue that will set as rubber <S> That would be something like Sugru <S> Sugru is mouldable glue. <S> Stick it, shape it <S> and it will turn into rubber. <S> I don't know whether it will adhere well to aluminium and whatever polymer Apple use for "plastic" feet. <S> However they do say: Sugru sticks permanently to lots of stuff like ceramics, glass, metal , wood, and most plastics and fabrics. <S> (my emphasis) <S> The MBP gets hot <S> According to Sugru: it'll stay strong and securely bonded anywhere from the freezer to a steamy hot shower Might be worth trying. <A> I would look for a general-use Epoxy rather than glue. <S> Looks like Amazon UK sells both J-B Weld and Gorilla-brand epoxy. <S> Superglue works best when binding two perfectly matching surfaces, that is to say, without any gaps. <S> Most Epoxy's are thicker and bind well to uneven surfaces. <S> Make sure you clean the foot and socket extremely well, as any film of grease or dirt can negatively impact the glue-up. <A> I have a variety of glues in my shop, but for this, due to the heat, I would use a good quality of double sided tape. <S> That's what is on the OE part. <S> Aluminum can be glued to if you scuff-sand the gluing area (to provide rigid "tooth", microscopic peaks and canyons for the glue to mechanically engage) ... <S> But rubber and rubbery plastics are always hard to adhere. <S> Sticky tape doesn't rely on tooth. <S> But the heat would concern me. <S> And the rubber.
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If I was using a glue, my general go-to is West System epoxy with collodial silica filler for flexibility.
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how can I convert my AC under kitchen cabinet lights to LED lights? Under my kitchen cabinets I currently have 120 volt AC florescent lighting. I want to replace these lights with brighter LED strip lighting, which typically is run using 24v DC current. The lights currently are turned on using a central single-pole switch. I want to keep the single switch where it is and I don't need a dimmer. My six cabinets sit to the right, left and across the room from the switch. Under each cabinet there is a place where the electrical wire comes out of the wall and connects to the lighting fixture. One way to do replace the current lights with LED lights and keep the same On/Off switch, is to put a 24v transformer at the point where the current 120v wire comes out of the wall, for each cabinet, but that is six transformers and moderately expensive. What is the right way to do this? Do I need to rewire? Or for instance, if I want to use a single 120v to 24v transformer, probably near the current light switch, can I use my current wire to run the 24v DC? <Q> These are currently available:- "Gx53 <S> LED Light Bulb 110 Volts 5 Watts Warm White with Lamp Base for Ceiling Downlight <S> Under Counter Lighting <S> (5 Watts) <S> " and will hardwire directly into your existing 120V wiring. <S> It also removes the requirement for AC/DC transformers which are just another link for failure. <A> Consider LED fluorescent tubes . <S> They snap in where the fluorescent tube went. <S> They come in 2 flavors: <S> direct-wire (where you rewire the fixture to bypass the ballast) or plug-n-play (which allows and requires you to retain the ballast). <S> Many puck lights have a big issue: how to get power to them. <S> Many are bare-corded, have very short cords, or are not grounded, <S> You can't just staple Romex to the underside of the cabinet and have wire-nuts dangling. <S> Are we really going to get into surface mount conduit and all that? <S> Remember you can only splice inside a proper electrical box, and you need 2 cubic inches per splice. <S> Some do have cords but that means you can only have as many pucks as outlets. <S> I see some that allow daisy-chaining from a central power-brick, that's promising, <S> but then, why not just use the strip lights? <S> Honestly, I say go with the strip lights and multiple power supplies. <S> DC is actually a pretty reasonable way to distribute this kind of (low) power, because it's smaller wire and you have more options to freestyle. <S> The 12V DC "transformers" (actually switching power supplies) aren't that big a deal. <S> You don't need a power supply for every cabinet, just each island. <S> And since cost tends to be proportional to power output, 3 small supplies won't be 3 times the cost of one big one. <S> Also, a well done LED strip installation looks really pro/custom, which pucks will never do. <A> I just installed a set myself on a wall dimmer. <S> Making the connections would require you to install dimmable receptacles (a thing I didn't know existed until recently) to meet code. <S> Lutron is the only company I found that makes them. <S> You could place old work (remodeler) boxes as needed where the existing cables exit the wall. <S> I realize that you asked about LED strips, in particular, but I'm very happy with the pucks. <S> They flood the area well and, while the light was a bit white for my taste, I was able to use some washable markers to tint the lenses, creating a warmer color.
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Dimmable line-level LEDs are available.
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How to fill a hole in the living room? There is the circular hole in the floor in my living room near radiator which leads to a relatively big space underground! If I want to judge using my eyes,I think the size is around 50cm/1.5feet depth and 30cm/1 foot width and 30cm/1 foot length. I think a mouse entered my house through this hole which is man made. I don't know why there is such a hole near radiator. I cannot completely fill the hole because it opens to a larger space. I want to lay a plastic sheet over the hole and then push the sheet into the hole. Now I have a cup-like plastic sheet inside the hole which I can fill with cement or mortar. I am wondering which is better, mortar or cement? I think cement must be better because mortar is made of cement itself and sand and lime. Thus I think the cement must form a stronger piece of solid. I would be happy to know about other possible solutions too. Here is a photo: <Q> There are two solutions that should be easier and cheaper than cement or mortar. <S> Cement could certainly work, if you can get it to stay in place while it dries. <S> Get some steel wool, which mice won't chew through, and a can of spray foam such as Great Stuff <S> (there's even a pest repellent version of it available at Home Depot). <S> This will keep bugs out and the steel wool will keep mice from chewing through, and it's fast, easy and cheap. <S> Alternately you could get a small piece of sheet metal. <A> This slab situation needs much more, than a patch. <S> Assuming there's no floor, wall or ceiling cracking... <S> yet. <S> After, confirming it's not erosion & the beginning of a sinkhole (wait for a heavy rain or soak the exterior with a hose). <S> The space beneath the hole really needs to be filled as completely & tightly as possible. <S> Enlarging the hole to as much as 3-feet may be your best bet, UNLESS you can shovel into the void from outside. <S> You'll still want a bigger hole (4 to 6-inches) for a 2-sided attack. <S> A lot of 1-inch or larger stone or gravel needs to be literally stuffed & tamped into the void under any part of the house & a little bit beyond. <S> Then you can pour cement in from the top to lock some gravel together & fill the living room hole. <A> First, lets make sure there isn't a radiator valve down there. <S> If I had to guess, that's a hole from an old radiator, or it was made as access to do a repair job. <S> Filing away a picture if there is pipe would be good, too. <S> User35 has sound advice if you simply want to plug the hole; foam plus steel wool. <S> But your floor looks like concrete, at least top side. <S> Mortar would work; concrete with small aggregate would be better. <S> I wouldn't worry about rebar or anything like that; it's a small hole and should bond well all by itself. <S> That is, assuming it isn't as giant a cavity down there as you make sound like. <S> If you can stick a tape measure in the hole and it stops after a foot or so, then whatever. <S> If it goes in like three feet, you might want to start asking yourself if this is normal for your type of foundation. <S> That would be normal for a crawlspace, but highly alarming if its a slab. <S> It's not uncommon for the earth to subside up to a foot under a slab. <S> Anymore than that <S> and you should take a good hard look at what's going on. <S> There's also the possibility this hole was made just to take a look or as a core sample.
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I'd shove the cavity full of newspaper to support some new concrete in the hole. Use some construction adhesive to hold it in place and it should keep bugs and mice out. If you see some pipe down there but no valve, your probably safe to fill it. Stuff steel wool around the hole and fill it in with spray foam, which will expand and can be trimmed with a knife after it dries.
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Better way to fit wires in electrical boxes? So in pretty much every video I watch with installing a ceiling light or fan they just sort of 'stuff' all the wired pigtails up in the box. Is there a better way to do this? maybe it's my distrust of wire caps/connectors? I always feel like that seems sorta hazardous...or the wire caps might get disconnected? Am I wrong? or is there a better way than just stuffing everything in a box? <Q> You can ever so gently stuff them in, but there really isn't all too much that you can do - about the same with any wiring. <S> The 'technique' that I learned is to push one side in first, getting the majority of it in there, and then roll the device onto/into the box to push the rest in. <S> Just tighten the screws good enough <S> and you'll have no problems. <A> Wire nuts (the proper word for caps) are just one way to make a splice (join two connectors). <S> Nuts are widely accepted by people in the trade as the official way to do it, and if you use good wire nuts and use them properly, you have nothing to worry about. <S> When I use a wire nut, I tighten it until i think all the conductors are well attached. <S> Then I pull each individually with significant force to see it it will break free from the rest. <S> If they are all snug, I continue to tighten the nut causing the conductors to twist around eachother which acts as a mechanical fastener/strain releif in addition to just the nut, which really, is fine on its own. <S> (Overkill, by far.) <S> They also make water proof wire nuts that have some sort of goo in them. <S> And there's other ways to make splices. <S> Even approved by the NEC assuming that applies to you or you want to follow the NEC. <S> Home depot has terminal blocks that you push wires into individually one at a time. <S> Split-bolts and solid terminal blocks are common for large gagues. <S> Here's just a few options from just one vendor. <S> http://www.idealind.com/products/wire_termination/ <S> Mechanically fastening wires <S> together before they enter the splice would help keep them together under extraordinarily violent vibration. <S> But generally speaking, anything severe enough to knock regular old wire nuts loose inside a normal junction box is going to rip any house off its foundation and reduce it to splinters. <S> Extreme overkill. <S> Twist them on and have some faith. <S> Or get someone more experienced to double <S> check you the first few times. <A> You can try to fold the wires to the back of the box, which should help, but to some extent you're really counting on the splice to be secure. <S> Wire nut connections when done right are very secure, but there is some skill / know how involved. <S> This type of connector: makes a very secure connection, and they're very easy to use. <S> You can see through the clear plastic to make sure the wire is fully inserted. <A> Is there a better way to do this? <S> A typical UK ceiling-rose for a pendant lamp. <S> Wires are secured by screw terminals in brass blocks which are built into the plastic-bodied ceiling-rose. <S> In case you are wondering, cables at top are are loop-in, loop-out, switch (note brown tape on switched live). <S> Source . <S> There is strain-relief for the pendant cable at bottom. <S> Where those cant be used, UK electricians commonly uses unanchored screw-terminal blocks and, as you describe, just scrunch the wiring up to fit back in the box. <S> I don't know whether properly tightened screw-terminal blocks are less prone to loosening than US wiring nuts <S> , I imagine so. <S> Obviously, none of these solutions are likely to be available in the US and may not be approved in US local code.
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If you want to take it a step further, you can ziptie them together once the nut is on and tested, and then use electrical tape after that to seal the bottom of the nut. There are certainly different ways to do this. For junctions in walls or ceiling voids there are similar junction boxes with built-in connectors.
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How do you remove a really stuck shower diverter spout? My bathtub's shower diverter spout leaks when it's in shower mode, so I'd like to replace it. It's the screw-on type. Trouble is, it's stuck tight. I've applied a lot of torque (counter-clockwise) with a pair of channel-locks and it simply won't budge. I'm worried about snapping the copper pipe if I go any harder. The actual joint is deep inside the spout so there's no access to spray penetrating oil or something in there. Am I gonna have to grind it off with an angle grinder or something to access the threads? <Q> Quite possibly. <S> I have cranked on spouts like that and had them release, and had them fold up and crumble, since it was old pot metal. <S> The connection, if it is as you say, will be in about 3" in. <S> The rough in for a connection like that is usually 4" to 4 1/8" to the end of the male adapter, so a cut about 3" should get you to the adapter. <A> Yup, not uncommon. <S> You could try cutting it like this: Then soak the threaded "boss" real good and carefully slice it with a hacksaw, preserving the threads underneath. <S> I have had some success with this and it allowed speedy replacement without changing the wall nipple. <S> Although if the nipple is not brass you should make efforts to get rid of it. <S> When building, I would never stub copper out with a male adapter for this type of spout, it's a recipe for a future twisted pipe. <A> Your right about over torqueing and snapping the pipe. <S> Try this before cutting: 12 inch pipe wrench positioned on spigot for removal, 3/4 inch x 12-14 inch steel "cheater bar" onto wrench handle, pull wrench with medium force and release, position wrench opposite direction and repeat. <S> Try doing this a few times. <S> If it comes down to it use a sawz-all before a grinder. <S> If you make the cut at 45 degrees to the spigot you should be able to peal the spigot off with pliers.
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A grinder would be a good way to go about it.
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How can I lock a sliding door that doesn't have a door lock? I don't know if this question constitutes a home improvement or life hack but I'll ask here first. We live downstairs for my wife's parents in Japan. My wife's mother occasional invades downstairs. She changes around things- this infuriates my somewhat control-freak wife. Is there a device that I buy on the internet that allow a sliding door to be locked? Its a double sliding door with no internals of Japanese design- more robust that those paper doors but essential light weight wood on the wood runner with no bearings. I need non-permanent- no modifications to either door or wall. Just need to provide some resistance to entry. Its an internal door. Because there are two sliding doors- I envision perhaps a Z connection- A L with an end- the gap between the doors is 5mm- and small lock to lock the doors together. Have you seen something like that? We have a decent a hardware store at last near home but no tools. <Q> You can cut a stick to lay in the track where the door slides, that's an old trick. <S> You can also drill a vertical hole in the track, say an inch deep, and drop a 2" nail in there, to block the door from sliding open, similar idea. <A> The Z would do it & you might find just the top portion of an over door hanger would work, there are several here Other than that, you might try L-brackets tied together will do the trick. <S> These are perfect for a wing-nut screw together & your hardware store might customize them Just wrap the contact points with a rubberized tape to avoid door marks. <A> I'm assuming you want the door to be locked from the outside and when you are not home? <S> Here are some items that should have the type and style you would find appropriate for your home: <S> keyed sliding door handles .
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They make little clamp on sliding window locks that might work.
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Can I use a non-standard design for a stairwell ceiling cutout in an old house? I am designing the framing for a stairwell in an 1870's cottage, which is presenting a few extra constraints. What seems to be the standard approach throws up a couple of additional issues, and I'm not sure if my solution has any weaknesses or is invalid in any way. We are adding a staircase which must penetrate the top of a wall as the rooms are less than 3m wide, and therefore it cuts into two different ceilings. One is tongue & groove the other is original lathe & plaster. Both of which are heritage and we need to preserve and not damage as much as possible. The existing joists aren't perfectly made or laid, being roughly 50 x 140mm of very hard old timber (ironbark), and spaced roughly at 450mm standard, but there's a lot of variation. Of course they cannot be moved. This is the existing joist layout in the area affected. The joist along the wall is a bit crooked, and will need to be cut away to provide a clean stairwell. The stairs we intend to install are like this. They are made and installed by a company who is expecting the penetration to be ready to go. The staircase has a turn at the top (due to headroom constraints), so must land on a new trimmer joist, parallel to the existing joists. Design 1 My first attempt at the cutout design, following the normal approach is something like this, with double headers and a new double trimmer joist spanning the entire house. (They might not have to be double as the spans aren't big.) The problems with this design are that the "wall joist" needs to be cut as the stairs run along the wall. I presume this is a common problem, as it's a common design. I presume I should anchor the cut ends of the joist to the wall using bolts or a 90° joist hanger or bracket of some kind. Is there another solution to this cut joist which still allows the stairwell wall to be clean and uninterrupted? The addition of the long new joist will not be possible on top of the lathe & plaster ceiling, as the plaster 'nibs' or keys are curling anything up to 30mm above the ceiling laths. So the new joist would either have to be only 100mm deep to avoid them, or they would have to be removed. The former would probably not be structurally strong enough? The latter would damage and weaken the ceiling, so I don't want to do that. The overlapping joists on the centre supporting wall, cannot be staggered as they need to form a uniform line across the stairs. The wall is 250mm thick, but I am unsure if a 125mm overlap and a butt joint is acceptable. Design 2 My second design is to insert a single/double trimmer joist between the two headers, almost like another header. On the right hand side, it's only supporting a tiny amount of t&g so it's almost cosmetic. In the centre it's sitting on a supporting wall, so it's very well supported. On the left, it is the landing point for the stairs turn, so I know this needs to be solid. The span from the centre wall to the header is only 1,400mm. This design still has the same "wall joist" cut as the first design, and raises further questions. I don't know if this design is "valid", as it's difficult to see how the load is transferred from a header to another "sub header". It all feels a bit non-standard, though it seems to be well supported. Is it acceptable to invent a non-standard design, to cope with a unique situation? Are there drawbacks to not using the tried-and-trusted layout? Update, 9/11/2016 We have decided to keep the "wall joist" and make it a decorative feature on the wall. I realised there is no complication with the wall stringer as I had originally thought, as the stringer never reaches this joist before it turns to the right. It will also provide delineation between the downstairs plaster, and the bare sandstone walls upstairs. <Q> Unfortunately, as with most questions like this, you're going to have to talk to an engineer. <S> A bunch of amateur DIYers on the internet, is not the proper resource for this type of information. <S> You're making a major structural change to a building, and you don't want it to cause property damage or personal injury. <A> Since stick framing has been around so long, and there are so many millions of stick framed structures around, there really aren't many unique situations. <S> Getting creative can be BIG trouble. <S> I don't think I have a real clear picture of your framing from the diagrams but enough to make some remarks. <S> RE <S> #1 - Cutting the "wall joist" <S> - that's a particularly important piece of wood; using some kind of fitting at the ends is't sufficient. <S> RE <S> #2 - Shrinking the joists to accommodate the plaster will make them too small for the span. <S> (That's the tail wagging the dog, weakening the structure to spare the finish.) <S> You can however remove the plaster above the lathe. <S> This isn't your biggest problem. <S> RE <S> #3 - The butt joint as drawn is no good <S> but there's probably an easy way around this, for example you could use a piece of engineered lumber, but this is the least of your worries. <S> RE #4 <S> - I think you are starting to see the bigger problems at this point - you're compromising crucial parts of the structure that carry the loads. <S> There are other problems. <S> ... is it acceptable to invent a new non-standard design to cope with a unique situation, if the structure is technically sound. <S> Or are there other drawbacks to not using the tried-and-trusted layout? <S> That is probably a code requirement depending on your locale, but it's a good practice in any event. <A> Design 1 is the only typical & proper design & should be presented to & approved by the Heritage Society & Local Building Department. <S> You actually have quite the rubber stamp situation with that central bearing wall. <S> It really couldn't be better nor more straight-forward. <S> That ceiling & wall stuff is going regardless, in order to do it right. <S> You'll have another stick or 2 to add before you're approved & you should calculate & list what you're re-using & where.
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It's OK to do something unusual that's structurally sound, but that determination needs to be made by a structural engineer or other qualified expert. The "correct" and responsible thing to do, is to seek the advice of a trained professional. Don't worry about saving a pitiful 25mm here & another 25mm there on the ceilings or wall when you're taking out the whole end of the house's ceilings.
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Should I use spray foam to insulate a basement? Home in CT cape w/ uninsulated basement. Its a cold, not drafty house, with new Marvin integrity windows. The basement is very cold, and it seems like the cold basement is making the rest of the house difficult to heat( forced air). So I'm considering insulating the basement walls which are cinder block. I saw one plan with foam sprayed directly onto the block, then there were 1 1/2" metal studs installed on top of the insulation, and then sheetrocked w/ 1/2". Has anyone seen this done? It doesn't explain how to install the metal studs. Would it help even if I didn't insulate the below grade walls? <Q> The cheaper and just-as-effective method is to put rigid foam boards (EPS or XPS foam) up against the walls, and seal their edges with little bits of spray foam, caulk, and tape (as appropriate). <S> Seal them to the floor too. <S> You can use the same method to insulate the rim joists. <S> Just make sure everything's sealed up tight so no inside air can reach the walls and rim joists. <S> This is much cheaper and more DIY-friendly, and the results are just as good. <S> Or you can build a stud wall and drywall over that. <S> For bonus points, use cementboard instead of drywall for the first two feet off the ground for flood safety. <S> Drywall will dissolve and grow mold when soaked; cementboard will just happily sit there. <S> If you build a stud wall, use pressure-treated lumber for the same reason. <S> This means tile or plastic baseboards, trim, and flooring. <S> No carpet, no hardwood, no MDF, no paper, gypsum, or wood products in general. <A> Closed-cell spray foam would be an excellent insulator, and would prevent some mold problems that can result when other types of insulation are installed against concrete by eliminating air gaps. <S> Ask your installer whether you should seal the block wall first. <S> Steel stud walls would be free-standing (fastened at the floor and ceiling), and would be installed just inside the foam layer. <A> Should I use spray foam to insulate <S> Yes. <S> Well, usually. <S> Given the budget, it's often the best way insulate a home in terms of r-value, vapor retardation, and speed of install. <S> If you go that route, no need to install the studs outside the foam. <S> You can put up the studs (leaving a bit of a gap between the wall and stud for foam to get behind), and then have them foam in between. <S> This gives you the added bonus of a really sturdy wall. <S> But it can be pricey, so I'd definitely take iLikeDirt's suggestion. <S> In fact, that's what I've done myself: XPS foam boards, seams taped, metal studs, Densarmor wallboard (fiberglass faced sheetrock) <A> As a former plumber & drain-layer I would be checking for signs of ground water as that is the main source of chill in a basement. <S> Otherwise the basement would be a slightly cooler temperature than the house above, not chill cold as here. <S> Look for overflowing gutters, broken downpipes or ground water coming downhill from a neighbours house with similar problems. <S> Stop the ground water coming against your basement wall and/or the floor and your problem is solved. <S> If the floor then the floor will be colder to your touch than the cinder block walls. <S> If you have stray water and need to shift it then the best solution is to dig out the outer earth against your block wall 200mm (8") wide and install 110mm perforated drainflow pipe & surround with 50 to 100mm with 20mm GAP (General All Passing) drainage gravel and fill with gravel to just below the outside earth level leaving enough soil depth for your garden or lawn. <S> Run this drain pipe out each side of the basement/house to a lower drain point to discharge the water away from your house. <S> If successful your basement should be quite cosy with no further work required. <S> To fix a cold floor, then install your drain at or below the base of the wall to discharge the water before it reaches your floor. <S> If your house and basement is on level ground then you should discharge your new drain into a sump chamber below & outside the basement walls and install an automatic discharge pump to lift the water into the council storm water drainage system.
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These foam boards are easier to finish too since they're flat and straight, so you can lay drywall right over them, fastened to the block walls underneath with Tapcon screws. If you choose to finish the basement, use the same approach and avoid moisture-sensitive materials in the bottom few feet just in case the basement floods. That's the expensive way to do it. That said, framing outside of the foam gives you a bit more flexibility in being able to run electrical and plumbing afterwards.
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Loose wire caused significant blackening in plug. How much do I need to inspect/replace? The cable coming out of my dishwasher ends in an L5 plug of the type that has screw terminals inside for attaching wires. In my continuing quest to inspect all the accessible electrical connections in my new house due to the number of problems I've found, I opened this plug up. Upon doing so, I discovered that the neutral wire was loose and blackened, and that the entire screw terminal was rusty-looking and surrounded by an area of charring (probably someone who didn't understand that you need to rotate an L5 plug to disconnect it yanked too hard). The external neutral prong was blackened as well, but the blackening was so uniform that it looked intentional from the outside, like they just made one prong a different color. Obviously the plug needs to be replaced, and the burned wire will need to be trimmed back at least a few inches. And even though it looks ok, given that the prong got hot enough to turn black, I should probably replace the receptacle it was plugged into as well (I think I will actually ditch the plug/receptacle entirely and direct-wire the thing; the manual says that's fine). Is this enough, or should I replace the entire burned wire and/or go through the whole circuit looking for other areas that might have overheated? And is it possible there is damage to the dishwasher itself (it's been running fine, as far as I can tell)? In case it's significant, I should mention that this is a multi-wire branch circuit where the previous owner/my nemesis had connected both hot wires to the same leg inside the panel. This has been corrected, but the neutral could have been overloaded in the meantime. However, my intuition says if that's what was behind the charring, I'd be seeing it all over instead of at just one connection. Plus, based on their documented wattages, the two appliances on the circuit (disposal and dishwasher) shouldn't exceed 15 amps even when both run at the same time. <Q> L5 is rare in residential. <S> L5 and hardwiring would increase cost to maintain the dishwasher or disposal down the line. <S> I would trim the cord like you're thinking, and replace the outlet too. <S> It's handy to be able to unplug these things in a pinch, and it's nice to have a second outlet there in case you need to plug in a power tool or a charger or something later. <S> Unless you would have to move the dishwasher to reach the outlet, replace that L5 with a GFCI. <A> I would direct wire the dishwasher. <S> The heat appears to be caused by a loose connection. <S> (That was arcing I see this regularly where not tightened <S> well).I would direct wire the dishwasher when you do this if the wire to the outlet is ok <S> the rest should be ok also. <S> If using stranded wire the best way to tighten is to take them down tight, then back off 1/2 turn, tighten then back off and tighten. <S> This allows the wires to move around and have a better spread in the connector. <S> I do this on everything 1 time for stranded wire under 14awg up to 3-4 times for sizes over 4/0. <S> The dishwasher is probably fine but the arcing can shorten the life of the electronics. <S> Good job on correcting the multi wire circuit make sure you identify it in the box <S> so it doesn’t get split in future work. <A> Charring is usually from arcing, so replace the plug/outlet, and cut the charred part of the wire off. <S> And wire it right please. <S> basically anything that needs the entire circuit breaker rating and can flip if something bad happened. <S> Anything that can come in contact with water <S> i'd use a GFCI outlet or breaker <S> (it's code too <S> I suppose)
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The heat was caused by a loose connection that was arcing. Make sure your box has a clamp to secure the wire. But I'd say you should install a GFCI there instead of hard wiring it, and here's why: The dishwasher and disposal both are obviously going to be in contact with a lot of water which (if they break) could leak current to ground through your plumbing (bad bad bad). I wouldn't direct wire any appliance besides for permanent non movable dedicated circuits (electric tankless hot water heater, AC, machine motors if you're into those kind of things)
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Tongue and groove floorboards - which way up? I bought some tongue and groove floorboards. I noticed the tongues and grooves were not centered in the edge but were offset. ┌───────────────────────────────────────────┐ ┌─┘ ┌─┘ └─┐ └─┐ │ │ ← thick side └───────────────────────────────────────────┘ I guess there must be some reason for it. There must be some benefit. Which way up should I lay these, as shown in diagram or the other way up? P.S. To make sense of comments & parts of answers that relate to the specific boards I was using - see prior revision . <Q> It is thick side up, but to use that for flooring it was not milled properly. <S> Yes the top is to be the thicker side but the thin side is too thin to hold up over time and not crack here or there. <S> There should be a relief cut on the bottom face to help prevent cupping and where the nail goes through to keep the splinters raising the board off the subfloor. <S> Although I would not use it for flooring, and you are stuck with it, do not use an underlayment paper, use a good construction adhesive over the subfloor to hold it over the long haul and blind nail it down, letting the glue be the work horse here. <A> I think that's for cabinetry, that's the only place I saw it twice ever. <S> Otherwise, if whomever is calling that flooring then you definitely want the thick side up. <S> The thick side would be for future sanding & re-finishing or renewal from wear & tear. <A> It depends on 1) how you'll fasten it to the floor framing and 2) <S> whether you'll ever refinish it. <S> If you plan to blind-nail through the lower lip of the groove, you'd want the thick lip down. <A> This has been the traditional type of flooring for the last 200 years or so, especially through the Victorian period. <S> It was the only flooring used throughout my native New Zealand until the advent of particle-board & strand-board flooring introduced in the 1970's. <S> It can be either offset (as here) or equal tongue, and is laid from the wall, thick side up & groove first, placing the next board's groove onto the front face tongue. <S> At 3 boards laid, but not yet nailed, you then use an off-cut to face the chain operated floor cramps, 1 every 2nd joist to close the gaps and then skew nail all 3 boards into the joists. <S> Optimally use 2 nails per joist/board, 1 back skewed ( / as so) in the outer 3rd of each board and a second nail in the first 3rd of the board. <S> This minimises any cupping, or joint rising. <S> For your loft, instead of the floor cramps I would tightened the joints using a good quality wide mortise chisel to lever the boards tightly, or a side-nailed 50x50mm batten as a lever. <A> Taken from my books, dated 2002 and 1948. <S> Nothing has changed. <S> Thicker side up. <S> Part sentence below the second image relates to cutting the tongue "slightly nearer the bottom surface than the top": <S> Incidentally the gap on the underside mentioned on the first image is the clincher. <S> It's not always there <S> but if it is then it confirms that that edge is to face away from sight.
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If nails will be driven through the entire board (not the groove), I'd put the thicker lip up for better durability.
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What type of electrical box do I use for a hard-wired smoke detector? I am considering adding hard-wired smoke detectors to my house. Due to other in-process remodeling projects and the structure of the house, I have access to get behind the drywall at each location that needs a detector so this would be a relatively easy job. After watching some videos and reading up on how to do this project I understand what needs to be done except that I am unsure about the electrical boxes for each detector. The videos and tutorials all used single-gang old work metal boxes. I found a related question here: How can I install a wired smoke detector without compromising the fire rated sheetrock? The accepted answer suggests using metal octagon boxes with a fire protection layer added. However, this house has no fire protection: no OSB layers above the walls, no fire-rated caulk at intrusion points, no fire-rated drywall, etc. Do I have to use metal boxes or is plastic acceptable? Should they be single-gang or octagon ceiling boxes? Do I need additional fire protection around these boxes? Given that the rest of the house has no fire protection does this even matter? The house is located in the U.S. in a state that adopts the latest NEC unaltered every three years. <Q> I'd use a round plastic cut-in box even though you have access behind. <S> You'll find this much easier in the long run. <S> Remember, smokes do not have ground connections, so just splice the grounds with a wire nut or other approved method and fold into the back of the box. <S> Along the lines of this: <A> If the surface you are mounting on doesn't have additional fire rating, then you don't need anything more than a plastic or metal old-work box. <S> A single-gang box works fine for most detectors, but an octagon or round box gives you a bit more room. <A> There are a couple of different factors when determining the type of box needed for a particular installation. <S> One thing to remember is if you are worried about adhering to the NEC you need to make sure you secure the wiring for the installation in compliance with the appropriate code. <S> When it comes to wire fill here is the NEC section to look up in order to find the correct table. <S> Since the wiring itself is the only items that will be taking up space, to include wire nuts, in the box any single gang 18 cubic in. <S> or larger box will have enough capacity to work with this installation. <S> Part (1) of Section 370-16(a) describes in detail the method of counting wires, as well as clamps, fittings, or devices (i.e., switches, receptacles, combination devices) - by establishing an equivalent conductor-value for each.
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Just as the other answers have said an "old work" box or "cut-in" box work well for this application as it doesn't require any attachment to a structural member of any kind. As far as smoke detectors are concerned the only factors to take into consideration are access to the box for mounting purposes and wire fill.
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Safe to remove entry stairwall? We have a split entry that is minuscule with stairs heading either up or down and a tiny landing. I would like to remove the wall separating the up from the downstairs (it may be the only wall that the stairs are attached to as one side of the stairway is a brick wall) and make the entry look a fraction bigger. How can I know if this is safe to do? If not, can I remove the upper drywall and add molding to the studs to create a visually more open space? Would the studs be too large to be appealing? We have been remodeling our home for the last couple of years but the entry has me stumped. Don't want to weaken the house structure but it looks bad. The house was built in 1968 so it is 48 years old. <Q> If I am understanding your scenario right, as you enter the house you have an immediate landing and then stairs either going up or down into different levels of the house. <S> Depending on how the architect drew the plans there could even be a beam involved for support of the upper level. <S> Removing sheetrock to determine how the structure is built, in general, isn't hazardous to the structural integrity assuming the the structural engineer didn't factor in the sheetrock as part of a shear rating of that wall. <S> It is always better to pay a little extra for a professional opinion. <A> Unless your home is more than about 40 years old, It's unlikely that the stairs are dependent on the wall for strength. <S> If anything, you'll add stiffeners to reduce minor bounce that may appear after the wall is removed, but I doubt that'll be an issue. <S> Please post photos and more information for a more detailed answer. <A> Of course, remove the finish surfaces before cutting out any structure. <S> But, assuming this is a cathedral ceiling over the stair wall & therefore not a bearing wall (this needs to be positively confirmed). <S> Then, yes taking the top of the wall down to about 4-feet above the top stair would not affect the stair structure & you should stop there until the same process is repeated for between the stair flights.
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While these walls may not have a lot of bearing on the structural integrity of the stairwell they may have bearing on the rooms above and below the stairwell. This is a very difficult question to answer without pictures or plans to look at. My best recommendation would be to have a licensed framing carpenter come in and have a look at this wall before you proceed further.
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How safe is it to plug in an extension cord that has a missing ground pin in to a GFCI outlet? I know it will still provide power and such but what are the potential safety hazards? <Q> Actually, it's not that dangerous at all. <S> If you're going to use an ungrounded extension cord (which is not recommended), plugging it into a GFCI receptacle mitigates much of the risk. <S> Having a grounding conductor in place, may prevent a fault condition from energizing grounded portions of a device (technically it won't prevent it, but it should trip the breaker). <S> The proper thing to do, is to replace the extension cord. <S> However, if you're going to use the cord, plugging it into a GFCI makes it a bit safer (assuming the GFCI is in good working order). <S> WARNING: <S> A GFCI may not prevent you from being shocked, but it should prevent you from being electrocuted. <A> Well for one thing, the ground pin keeps you from plugging it in backwards. <S> You know 2-prong plugs where one prong is taller than the other? <S> The tall one is "neutral" which is close enough to ground that it's very unlikely to shock you. <S> (it isn't ground and shouldn't be shorted to ground). <S> Some homebrew or sloppily made equipment <S> (Chinese LED bulbs come to mind) allow you to touch metal energized at "neutral". <S> No biggie, unless you have managed to reverse the plug and then you have a problem. <S> Another... factor... is GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interruptor). <S> If any current leaks to ground (e.g. while shocking you), the GFCI will trip. <S> That is so effective that the National Fire Protection Assoc. <S> (who writes the Electrical Code) allows you to install a 3-prong GFCI outlet where there is no ground. <S> So you can put GFCI's in your sites which have 2-prong outlets because they don't have ground. <A> Like Ecnerwal said, nip off the head, buy a replacement & put it on. <S> Or, of course, put it in the trash. <S> There's no point in trying to save it & use it for just 2-prong applications. <S> Because, the 1 time you put a 3-prong in the other end is when the impossible will happen. <A> The purpose of grounding is so that when a fault in the appliance happens that connects a live conductor to the case the current will flow through the grounding system and not through your body. <S> A GFCI goes some way to mitigating the risk from missing grounds, however it cannot stop you from getting an electric shock it can only cut off the shock current after the shock has begun, hopefully before the shock kills you.
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A GFCI should prevent you from being electrocuted, if you happen to come into contact with an energized portion of the circuit or device. So if you have 3-prong outlets everywhere you plug this in, I'd put a 3-prong plug on the cord.
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Can I take a 220 line and convert it to a regular house outlet what would be the damage? I have a electric 220 dryer hook up in my kitchen now I want to convert it over to use for a higher grade power supply for my microwave blender and toaster without converting Any wires or touching the fuse box, is this possible ? <Q> If it's a 4-prong receptacle, then you could do it. <S> Though you'll have to swap out a breaker in the panel. <S> This will leave you with a 20 ampere multi-wire branch circuit (MWBC), which can be used to supply countertop receptacles. <S> If it's a 3-prong receptacle, there's likely not a grounding conductor. <S> So it's not going to be a good idea, though there are ways to do it. <S> As it sounds like you don't want to modify the existing wiring, this probably isn't a project you want to tackle. <A> IF you have a "4-Prong" <S> (Hot, Hot, Neutral, Ground) dryer outlet you could make (or <S> perhaps "have made" would be safer depending on your skill level) a "plug-in sub-panel" that would take the (probably 30amp) 240V via a dryer plug, and divide it into two or four 15 or 20A GFCI-protected (GFCI and 20A is required for kitchen outlets) 120V outlets. <S> Or, if you like, buy a device (portable power distribution unit) made for the job and ETL Listed as a unit: http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-Portable-Temporary-Distribution/dp/B003RRWWAY <A> Short answer: <S> No <S> At minimum you will have to open the fuse box to move one of the wires from a circuit breaker to the neutral bar. <S> And then replace the circuit breaker with a 20 amp single pole breaker for your small appliance branch circuit. <S> This will change the voltage from 240 to 120 volts. <S> If you are a complete novice at electrical work this is not a good place to start. <S> Call a local experienced electrician to make this change for you. <S> Happy Friday! <A> Here's hoping you have an 14-50 (4 prong outlet) and not a 3 prong. <S> Buy one of these: <A> If it was me... <S> If the 220v Dryer hookup box/connection only has 3 wires, I'd leave it alone and if I needed to have it changed, I'd call an electrician. <S> I would be comfortable doing this myself, but you may not. <S> Then the box could safely be rewired for one 2 outlet receptacle on each of the two 120v circuits, providing four 120v outlets. <S> And I'd be sure to use either GFCI protected breakers, or GFCI protected receptacles. <S> But to answer your question, to do this without touching the breakers or the wiring, here is a device that would provide one 120v outlet. <S> There may be similar devices available that provide more outlets: Gas Range Adaptor Mfg: <S> Woods Model: 548301 <S> It doesn't appear to be UL Listed, but specifications indicate it has a built-in 15 Amp fuse, and it is CSA (Canada) Certified. <S> The important thing is that it is protected from overload by a fuse. <A> Thinking all out of the box: Are these existing appliances, or ones you are still planning to buy? <S> Large parts of the world use 230V/240V appliances, and adapters and distributors should exist (you would need some 13A or 16A fusing, since that is what single-phase <S> 230V/240V appliances expect)....
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If the box/connection has 4 wires, I'd make the changes in the circuit breaker box necessary to remove the 220v breaker and replace it with two 120v single pole breakers. This becomes unwise if the dryer is a "3-Prong" device (no ground.) A local licensed Electrician should be able to do it for you. The work necessary for this is really fairly minimal. Not using a sub-panel is unwise because the dryer circuit is almost always of a higher amperage than a normal receptacle, so excessive current would flow in the case of a fault.
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Best way to fix an uneven floor We have an uneven floor that when we first moved in tried to repair but were unsuccessful. The root of the problem is a foundation slab which is uneven. We could not even it because there is an unevenness between two walls and did not want to try to mess with slab under the walls. So we actually took out the concrete and repoured the concrete but it ends up basicly the same (sheesh!!!!!). We were in a rush to move in (new baby) and so we laid down hardwood floors onto the uneven concrete slab but the result is worse because when u walk on it u really notice this sudden dip. Ive tried my hand at photoshop to try to draw the problem. I'll also describe it in words here WHen you are walking down the hall there is this sudden dip which comes on over the course of 2-3" as you walk. The dip is about 2" deep as you walk forward in the hall, but also 2" between the two walls. So you are dipping on two axis. TO make matters worse, the entire hallway has a gradual decline as it goes to a bedroom. The gradual decline is not the biggest deal to me, but the sudden dip is really killing this new house for me. Any ideas on a good way to go about repairing this. The one contractor I showed this too really rolled his eyes and swayed his head as if to say "this will cost $10million to fix". My basic not saavy at all inclination is to rip out the hardwood floors, install some kind of plywood underneath to make some kind of straight level betwwen the two walls and have the plywood gradually go down until it reaches the level of the room at the end of the hall. Then install hardwood ontop of this plywood. Of course how do you even out the plywood. I guess lots of sanding until its even. I have no idea. Thanks for any suggestions!! <Q> Sorry to hear your problem. <S> I just redid my kitch and had an uneven floor. <S> To solve the problem I called my brother who works on the installation of hospital equipment. <S> Those floors need to be precise and he has work with some very uneven floors. <S> I can describe the process. <S> You need to etch your subfloor concrete then find the best self-leveling thin set. <S> Usually not recommended for larger than 1 inch gaps. <S> So Damon is right to do a bulk fill in some areas. <S> Use the max amount of water the bag says, no less. <S> I learned the hard way a little thinner is better when leveling. <S> After it dries you will have a level floor. <S> Unless your concrete continues to settle. <A> No surface treatments you attempt will provide a lasting solution if the problem is related to expansive soil on a foundation not properly designed. <S> Unfortunately, by your description of the problem, this seems to be a likely cause. <S> You should inquire with neighbors to see if they have had similar problems and with area real estate agents to find out if your area has history of this. <S> You should call a foundation remediation specialist to assess the issue and provide a cost estimate for repair (these repairs, while not impossible, are expensive and intrusive). <S> Investigate your legal options for recompense through the seller or through your home insurance provider. <A> You can use a very dry mix of non-shrink grout to bulk fill the floor. <S> Set some lines, marks, and straight edges to guide the fill. <A> As, I'm presuming & hoping for your sake that it's a click-lock floating floor. <S> Then, go get a few boxes of Concrete Resurfacer. <S> Pour 1/4" at a time & the last coat or 2 can be soupy & thereby self-leveling with a little persuasion. <S> Otherwise, fill it in with cement in one or 2 shots. <S> You'll want to remove baseboards & possibly doors or whatever's affected. <S> It's concrete <S> there's no reason that you can't get it perfect by topical application.
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Then finish off with a cementitious underlayment to get a smooth even top, possibly self leveling although not necessary. If you didn't do the floor then shame-shame-shame on the installers for not fixing this. If you recently bought the home, the seller probably had a legal duty to inform you of this. Make sure to make the thin set as thin as possible. Take up the floor, dismantle it & number each piece (written on bottom or tape on top), don't cut it. But, get it right once & for all.
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Drain hose of washing machine too low? I just bought a front load washing machine and installed it. The plumbers in our bldg. installed the incoming water hose and the drain hose to the wall. Problem is that when the washing machine drains, the water overflows or comes out of the hole where the drain hose is inserted. Do I really need a high drainage pipe to connect my drain hose into? This is the instruction I got from the internet for my washer's brand. And here is the wall that has the drain hole in my kitchen and also my hose inserted into it.You can see how low the hole in the wall is and the bending of my hose. I tried inserting the hose as much as i could into the hole but still overflows or water comes back out and floods my kitchen. <Q> I'm going to assume that there's not a trap inside the wall, but if I'm wrong please correct me. <S> You're going to want to build a standpipe . <S> It's hard to tell from the picture what type of pipe it is, but you'll want to use something compatible to make the connection between pipe and trap. <S> From the other end of the P-trap, you'll want a 2" diameter pipe going straight up 18"-42" long. <S> You'll then put the washer drain into the top of the standpipe, as described in the manufacturer's installation instructions. <S> When you're done, it should look something like this. <A> When discharging directly into a waste system without a standpipe, the connections must be "tight", as with a hose clamp to an appropriately sized tube connector, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions. <S> The standpipe method is better (in my opinion) when connecting to existing waste systems with unknown capacity, because the standpipe can be sized to accommodate the high volume discharge of the appliance water pump. <S> The standpipe holds the water, allowing it to drain down into the system of dubious capacity. <S> When building a standpipe you do not have to use the pre-made 2" units. <S> I prefer to create one with larger diameter plastic pipe components, for more capacity. <S> Both methods require a trap. <A> If you have the room, you could put in a slop sink. <S> Then the water can drain more slowly, no matter how fast the washing machine exhausts.
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Start by installing a P-trap into that pipe in the wall.
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Can p-trap be installed inside wall? I have a new vanity I am installing in my guest bathroom. The current drain height is the same height as a storage shelf below my sink and does not allow the vanity to sit flush against the wall. Code says (i think) the weir at the exit of the p-trap must be continually downward sloping at 1/4" to 1/2" vertical height per 1' of horizontal run. So this means that I cannot adjust the drain height downstream of the p-trap. So my only other solution is to install a p-trap behind the wall and adjusting the drain height upstream to a new wall entrance height a couple inches higher. Reasons why I think this might be a bad idea. I've never seen it done before. An inspector would have to knock down the wall to confirm there is a trap installed. (could be fixed by replacing new hole in wall with access panel) A leak at the trap would be undetectable and could cause a lot of damage. (but does this have any more risk of leaking than all the other pipes behind my wall?) So, has anyone heard of this being done before? Is it ok to install a p-trap behind a wall? Am I over looking another option that is a simpler solution? What would you do? Thanks in advance!! I have attached a couple of pictures. The back end of the new vanity showing the shelf. My wall showing the drain line with the horizontal run <Q> As far as the international plumbing code is concerned ( relevant section is here ), you're fine putting it pretty much anywhere that meets the distance requirements. <S> In fact, the only mention of accessibility is in mental health facilities where traps are required to be inaccessible. <S> This is really no different than pouring concrete over the trap in a floor drain - just make sure it gets noted during the rough-in inspection. <A> WARNING: <S> I have not searched through plumbing codes, so this answer could be completely wrong. <S> Traps for tubs and showers are often not accessible, so I don't think there's a code section that specifically disallows hidden traps. <S> However, if you do put a trap in the wall, do not use a slip joint trap. <S> You might also want to consider building an access panel into the vanity, so you can access the trap if need be. <A> I also questioned this possibility. <S> Unless you want to go to a sink stopper on a chain, space will be required for the drain linkage. <S> Otherwise there would only be the issues of inconvenient accessibility and late detection of leaking.
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I think it's recommend to have an accessible trap, but I don't think it's code required.
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How can I dry out our attic and prevent mold? What is the best way to dry out our attic. While putting away Christmas deco I noticed black mold on the ceiling. We don't have the money to pay a professional to get rid of it. And with the cold weather it isn't drying. We stopped using the bathroom vent which put the moisture in the attic in the first place. I just need some info on how to get it completely dry before we start to get rid of the mold. The bathroom vent is now going blowing outside..this is a big mess no leaks from the roof just from the moisture from the fan. <Q> If you can get to it, try spaying it down with a diluted bleach solution. <S> Then see if the dry winter weather kills it off. <S> You should check it periodically to make sure it doesn't get any bigger. <S> Happy Sunday! <A> After they are killed off, use lemon salt + water solution to prevent future mold problems. <S> Remember, after applying lemon salt solution to the surface, you will not be able to paint the surface (if you need). <S> Insulation will not cost too much if you apply it by yourself. <S> There are lots of information on the internet about how to do it. <A> Now that you're resolved the problem (the misplaced bath fan exhaust), it'll dry up on its own. <S> Any airflow you can provide helps, as would a dehumidifier or a moisture-absorption product such as DampRid.
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You may have already removed its source of moisture and depending on how much there is it may die off on its own. As ArchonOSX mentioned, you can spray bleach solution on the mold. The better solution to prevent mold growth while saving energy is to use rock wool or other kinds of insulation materials for attic insulation.
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How to remove what I think is a screw head caught in a waste disposal I have a waste disposal, and what looks like a screw head, which is jammed in the waste disposal unit (an Insinkerator 55 if it matters). This means as the machine is turned on, it makes a banging noise as the 'blades' hit it. I'd like to remove this obstacle but it's jammed tight. The problem is, the angle. As per this image (red X shows where the screw is) You can see, the sink is at the top and then insinkerator is below, but the angle of the hole means I'm limited to what I can get in. The screw head is fairly flush, I can't really 'grip' it with pliers and when I do, it doesn't really budge. I have been whacking at it with a chisel and hammer, and it won't move (hoping to snap the metal) ! I've tried using a dremel tool and attempting to 'sand' or 'file' it away, but are there any other options for situations like this (other than replacing the entire unit). I also don't seem to be able to take the unit apart so it appears as if my only option is from going in from the top! <Q> Had exactly the same problem this morning, thanks to the thread - it made the repair so much easier... <S> the screw was jammed tight just like the original photo above. <S> I went to homedepot got the tool but could not move the screw at first, <S> what I did was reverse the disposal very slowly using the blades and my fingers, after every slight movement I would check to see if the screw had a position where it was loser, and yip after about 3 minutes I found that position- <S> then use the tool and boom the screw was out... thanks again! <A> Get yourself a flexible claw gripper to fish it out. <S> It'll work wonders. <S> http://m.homedepot.com/p/GrabEasy-Grabber-and-Retriever-PF0401/202505170 <S> (source: homedepot.com ) Flexible claw gripper for reaching small items in tight spaces <A> In the end, I kept on sanding it down (sanding and cutting with a dremel) until it eventually became thin enough I could crack it (snap it) with a chisel. <A> In case this happens to anyone else. <S> Then I got a Phillips drill bit and put my hand in and unscrewed the screw. <A> Underneath the unit in the center is hole,unit should have Came with an Allen wrench. <S> Power switch off <S> insert AllenIn center turn slightly until it moves then try prying Screw out,you may have to repeat steps a couple of Times.
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I used a flathead to loosen around the screw just prying.
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Is there any way to change this light bulb? (no socket I guess) My ceiling lamp died. Is there any way that I can change this light bulb?The white wires are soldered into the ballast inside the box. The ballast also is wired to pins connect to the bulb. So I guess I have to change the whole thing, both bulb and the ballast? Also how to disconnect the connector on the left? <Q> Usually, with those types of "2D" fluorescent tubes, you grasp the central plastic portion and pull down firmly. <S> A video <S> Another <S> Here's some randomly selected instructions <A> I did a google search on circular fluorescent light and came up with this picture. <S> It does not have any leads going to it, it looks like a socket connection. <S> The wires just happen to go behind that area. <S> Remove the retainer and unplug the bulb. <A> The power plug at the lower left side of the photo is first unplugged (it should pull apart). <S> Next remove the screw and clip shown in the photo at the center of the fixture. <S> The bulb should now be free of the fixture and tha new bulb is installed in reverse order.
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Have a helper hold the bulb as it may become loose. There are pins in the underside that are gripped by a receptacle in the fitting.
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Changing fluorescent tube: how many degrees to turn? I have a broken fluorescent tube (housing is intact, but it flickers instead of lighting up properly) that I have to change (bottommost type in the image). I can turn it about 20 degrees, but it does not come off easily. Is there a rule (of thumb) on how many degrees one has to rotate such lamps? In other words: do I have to rotate further or apply more downwards force to remove the lamp from the brackets? I don't want to break the glass... <Q> The bottom two are bi-pin fluorescent tubes. <S> There are two types of bi-pin socket you will encounter on straight tube T5, T8 and T12 fluorescent lights. <S> This type requires 90 degree rotation. <S> Removal can be a real pain the first time you do it as the pins can weld to the brass contacts and you will end up breaking the socket if you get rough with them. <S> I use silicone spray with a straw to shoot some into the socket when I encounter one <S> that's semi-spotwelded itself in. <S> It's non-conductive and prevents future issues. <S> Also, if the tube is too long to allow it to drop out of the fixture opening, there often will be a slot in one end to drop the pins into so the other end will clear the opening. <S> Align the pins vertical, insert the tube until it stops and rotate until you feel both pins click in place, it is possible to have only one set engage in the indent in the brass contacts that are visible. <S> This type pushes straight into the socket and removal is straightforward. <S> The top two tubes in that picture are compact fluorescent and pull straight out of the socket. <A> According to this video, 90 degrees: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oh3a_p7C104 <A> When installing a bi-pin fluorescent bulb into an overhead fixture, you slide it up into the two end sockets evenly with the pins in a 0-180 degrees (vertical) orientation, and then turn it so that the pins are in a 90-270 degree (horizontal) orientation. <S> If you are close enough to the socket you will be able to see the brass pins as the bulb is rotated. <S> Also, the socket clips (contact points that are energized) are indented so you will be able to feel them as they "click" or latch in.
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Rotate the tube 90 degrees so they align with the slot and pull out.
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Ontario kitchen reno: does a gas range require a 240V 50A receptacle? I've been getting conflicting opinions from electricians on this issue... I'm doing a kitchen reno. I have removed the existing electric wall oven and gas cooktop. A new Gas Range (all gas, not dual-fuel) will be installed near where the old gas cooktop was, using the existing gas line. The question is: Does Code require a 240V 50A range receptacle installed behind the gas range? It appears that for new construction the answer is yes for sure. But some electricians believe that a renovated kitchen does not require this. Also, I believe that an exception applies if the kitchen is in a multi-family dwelling. (We have a tenant in our legal basement apartment.) Has anyone had experience with this? <Q> UPDATE: @doozit commented below that this document was just a proposal, which wasn't accepted. <S> (It isn't described as such on the ESA webpage) <S> A quick google search found what looks like the answer in the Ontario amendments to the Canadian electrical code on the Electrical Safety Authority's page <S> This reference might be enough for you and your electricians to break the tie: 31.Delete CE Code Rule 26-744(4) and replace with the following: (4) <S> 32.Add Rules 26-744(10), (11), (12) and (13) as follows: ... (13) <S> Notwithstanding Subrule (4), the range receptacle need not be installed in (a) dwelling units where a built-in gas-fired or electric cook top or a built-in gas-fired or electric oven is installed; (b) other than single dwellings where provision has been made for a gas range; or (c) dwelling units where power from a supply authority is not available and the capacity of local generation is less than 6 kW. <S> So it looks like you don't need the receptacle as long as a cooktop or oven is installed. <A> I posted the original question. <S> For the record, I went ahead and installed the slide in gas range WITHOUT providing a 240V 50A receptacle, knowing full well that this was likely contrary to Code. <S> I did this because the Code requirement would have incurred significant extra expense and inconvenience as the new cable would need to be routed through finished basement ceilings including the ceiling in my tenant's apartment. <S> And this requirement does not appear to be related to safety in any way, only to the convenience of a future owner of the house. <A> Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for the range, to determine the electrical requirements. <S> A gas range typically only requires a 15 or 20 ampere 120 volt receptacle. <S> I'm not familiar with Canadian electrical code, but I can't see why a 50 ampere circuit would be required for a gas range. <S> If you were installing an electric range, a 120/240 volt, 50 ampere circuit would likely be required. <A> For our kitchen remodel which replaced an electric range/cooktop with a natural gas range. <S> Since the wire and outlet were available, I basically (relocated slightly to be in the new range's location) left the 40 amp 120/240 volt outlet and wiring there in case someone wants to use a welder or heavy duty compressor an electric oven someday. <S> The new range has two ovens: a conventional size bake/broil/etc portion powered mostly by natural gas (the igniter is a non-sparking electric heating mechanism), and an 8 inch high electric oven as the lower drawer. <S> That oven requires 12+ amps at 120 volts, so 20 amp 120 volt service in the form of a standard residential outlet was needed. <S> Any reason not to do the same thing in your situation? <A> this is a very clear rule. <S> your one electrician is incorrect. <S> (this means it is hard plumbed to the gas line - it cannot have a quick disconnect - but they aren't allowed anyhow). <S> its OEC section 26-744 (revision date november 2011) section 4), 10)-13). <S> you will however need a 110v outlet for powering the lights and electronics for the range (26-712-2, ii.) <S> done <A> "BUILT IN" is a built-in oven and or built-in countertop cook-top. <S> A "slide-in" range does NOT qualify as it can be easily removed and replaced with an electric range. <S> Ontario code REQUIRES an adequate electrical supply be provided at ANY slide-in range location, whether you chose to install electric or gas. <S> That is Ontario Code - and must be met any time a "full renovation" is done - ie- <S> any time walls are opened and any electrical or structural changes are made.
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A receptacle of CSA Configuration 14-50R, as shown in Diagram 1, shall be installed at a suitable location in every single dwelling and in every dwelling unit of an apartment or similar multi-dwelling building for supplying electric energy to an electric range. section 26 of the OEC requires no 240v outlet where a built in gas range or oven is installed
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Is marijuana worse for your house than tobacco? I live in Oregon, USA, and the state has recently legalized marijuana. I have a tenant who smokes daily. I've visited a few times and the home always smells of pot. I know how tobacco smoke can permeate a house. To be rid of tobacco smell you must pull out carpets, seal and repaint the walls, and so on. Is this also true of marijuana? I am on good terms with the tenant. If simple cleaning will be sufficient then I am happy to wrap the cost into their cleaning deposit. But, if it's going to be a serious problem later, then I'll want to invoke the non-smoking clause of our contract right away. Does anyone have any information on this? <Q> I think you need to deal with weed the same as you would tobacco. <S> The smell is just as bad as tobacco. <S> It FOR SURE permeates drywall. <S> I have had to rip out drywall from a few pot houses. <S> They may smoke more in volume but generally they smoke out windows or open windows/doors after smoking. <S> weed smokers may let the smoke sit in the room or create a hot room. <S> It wouldn't take a great deal of time before a house was smell infested. <S> also weed smokers may grow their own. <S> The marijuana plant stinks and can stink up a house in a few batches of 5 plants. <S> Really there is a great range of possibilities with both set of smokers. <S> I have rentals <S> and I personally would be more worried about weed. <S> I think it is because the amount of smell damage you can do to a house with weed in short amount of time. <S> I have had rentals before that I had smoke cost fears and talked to the renters way before it became permanent. <S> I would feel I would need to check in to a house smoking weed every few weeks. <S> It is just more of a communal drug and people often prefer holding the smoke inside. <A> My experience is that the smell of marijuana does not linger for long. <S> This only applies to smoking of the traditional way - lighting it on fire. <S> Some more modern techniques like vaporizing produce next to no smell at all, you wouldn't even notice if someone was smoking it next to you in public. <A> Windex with Ammonia-D (or generic) specifically or even just Ammonia will eradicate virtually all smoking smell, residue & evidence. <S> Either works wonders on all surfaces. <S> If you have a fabric lampshade laden in tobacco staining, soak it down with Windex & right before your eyes the tobacco stuff will run & stream right off & you'll have a tough time seeing any difference from a new or non-stained lampshade. <A> I’ve been smoking pot inside every house I’ve rented for the past 17 years. <S> I need it for my epilepsy and am a biochemist who studies the plant. <S> I have never had a landlord say anything about it as it doesn’t stick to walls like nicotine does. <S> Nicotine has a different chemical structure and sticks to everything. <S> Also, MOST POT SMOKERS DO NOT MIX IN TOBACCO IN THE US. <S> In Europe they do not but in the US. <A> It will stain walls just like tobacco - smoke is smoke in that regard. <S> I've never experienced an odor renovating spaces, including homes of people <S> I know smoke it habitually. <S> I know the smell can be very powerful when it's been used recently, especially if you aren't a habitual user yourself, but it always seems to fade pretty quickly. <S> If this is a multifamily home or complex: I lived in a complex for a couple years and the smell tended to waft its way through common spaces and even into other apartments. <S> It would fade quickly, but is unpleasant to people who dislike the smell. <S> That's reason enough to enforce your smoking policy.
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That being said, many pot smokers mix in some tobacco, in which case, it will smell just as tobacco does. I think some things you need to think about are: that most tobacco smokers try to air out their house.
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Hot water temp in shower/tub fluctuates I live in a condo that has 13 units in two buildings and am the president of the board. A few months ago we had a new water pump installed in our boiler room. Shortly after that all three units in my tier of the building experienced hot water fluctuations in the shower. The water would go from being hot to cold and back. This would happen several times while using the shower. We had the plumber out who replaced and installed the new pump to check and see if it was the cause of the issue but he couldn't find anything wrong. We replaced all the cartridges in the tub faucets and that didn't help. The plumber checked again for a possible cause in our boiler room but again couldn't find anything. So as a test he turned off the hot water return line which stopped the water from fluctuating. It wasn't an issue to do it because my tier is directly above the boiler room so we get hot water rather quickly. Now owners in the adjacent building which is further away from the boiler room are having the same issue with the hot water fluctuating in the shower. A plumber was recently out again to check for the cause but couldn't find anything. His theory is that someone remodeled their bathroom around the time the new water pump was installed and crossed the lines there. He advised us to check any units that had major work done in their bathrooms recently. The plumber says a large volume of cold water is getting in the hot water line. He showed me the hot water line in the boiler room and we both felt it get cold and go back to being hot a couple of times. Since I know very little about plumbing would this be the cause of the issue? Is there something else that may be causing this? Could a bad cartridge in someone's tub faucet be the cause (which seems unlikely to me)? If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it. <Q> Since the hot water is installed in a loop system, and cutting off the return seems to solve the problem (or at least reduced the issue), then obviously there is a bad cartrige or crossed line somewhere. <S> Cold water usually has a slightly higher pressure than the hot water because it has a shorter path to travel (it doesn't travel through a boiler). <S> So, with a bad cartrige (maybe missing an o-ring or something) or a crossed pipe, the cold water would flow into the hot (instead of hot into cold). <S> Regarding the test, since the hot water is installed in a loop system, the pressure is actually even lower than a non-return type system. <S> The lower pressure of the hot water loop system allows more cold water to enter the hot water line. <S> When he shut off the return (no loop), the problem was lessened to a noticeable extent. <S> This strongly suggest a crossed pipe or faulty cartrige. <A> First, since your problems started when the water pump got changed, you should start there. <S> Ask your plumber if there is a one way check valve on the return line. <S> this valve prevents cold water to be drawn back though the return line. <S> If not have him install one. <S> Second ask all condo owners if any of them installed a recirculating pump in their units. <S> This to will cause the same symptoms you are having. <S> Hope this solves your problem. <A> I'd be inclined to schedule a maintenance window during which the hot water supply is shut completely off (including the return line / recirc pump), and you can get access to the units that share that loop. <S> Hypothesis: Water will keep flowing from any of the hot water taps; eventually cold water since you're no longer supplying hot water to the system. <S> (Start with the top floor; otherwise this test is confounded by all the water in the pipes above you). <S> If water does continue to flow, you've got a leak or crossover from the cold water system into the hot; your ears, a stethoscope, and/or selectively shutting off cold water valves could isolate this. <S> I've seen bad faucets cause this problem in apartment buildings, but appliances (particularly washing machines) can do it too. <S> Problems are most likely to crop up on lower floors first where the pressure is higher. <S> My guess is you'll find that hot/cold lines are crossed (or improperly connected) at one point in the building. <S> When a resident runs hot water, the line is getting refilled with cold water from this crossover point, rather than the water heater. <S> Your recirculating hot water system eventually pulls that cold water back to the heater, but it means intermittent cold water from the hot water pipes! <S> If the water does stop, if you can drain the entire hot water system and no water flows at all -- then you've established that there's no leak or crossover, at least while the connected faucets are closed. <S> Before turning the hot water back on I'd be inclined to test those faucets. <S> All faucets will allow some cold water back into a drained hot water system, but only when the faucet is open-- and it shouldn't be too much. <S> Last resort, after turning everything back on, would be to monitor the temperatures of both the "hot" and return lines at the water heater for a while. <S> The outgoing hot water should have a nearly constant temperature. <S> The return line should be just slightly cooler, but still constant; If the "hot" (outlet side) temperature drops quickly when someone uses hot water, the heater itself could have a problem such as a broken dip tube (or other 'short circuit' between hot and cold). <A> Do you have a pressure tank installed on the hot water line (output of the boiler)? <S> Could it be that momentarily the pressure drops and colder water is drawn out of the pressure tank into the hot line? <S> Pressure tanks are usually installed to regulate the line pressure to minimize fluctuations in water flow and change the resonant frequency of the system so that you don't get water hammer. <S> It could be that the old pump was sufficient to deliver hot water despite the fluctuations and the new pump is just a bit less powerful and now it's dependent on the pressure tank, which cools off and delivers cold water intermittently.
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Your plumber is right... or his test was successful in identifying the problem. Definitely sounds like cold water crossing over into the hot water loop.
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What exactly is pitch in terms of nuts and bolts? Today I needed a nut and washer to hold my bike tire. I had one nut already which I was able to lock on there with a 15mm socket & ratchet. So I figured this meant that the nut must be a 15mm and a 15mm washer, if that makes sense? I only had one nut and washer so I took a trip to the hardware store today and I go hunting for that nut & washer. Soon I am overwhelmed with new terminology there were metrics and hex and some other stuff I figured I needed a 15mm so the metric section must be it. I go hunting there but nothing is labeled with mm it's all +1.50 pitch or M8 I don't know what any of that means or how it relates to the 15mm diameter nut & washer. Essentially I couldn't find the right one, an employee showed me what he said was the 15mm nut & washer was but it was way too big so I knew I'd have to go back to do more research. Please explain what pitch means for mm I am very confused here. And if a 15mm socket can lock the nut onto the bike does that mean the nut would have to also be a 15mm nut & the washer? Thank you <Q> Nuts and bolts start with two options, US or metric. <S> US units tend to be in inches, metric units are typically millimeters. <S> The size of the socket is completely separate from the size of the bolt and nut. <S> The size of the nut/bolt is measured outside of the threads on the bolt, not the nut. <S> So a 15mm bolt measured from the diameter from outside the threads, which would be written M15, could easily require a 30mm socket to install. <S> The pitch is how steep the threads are. <S> On US nuts and bolts, they are measured according to the number of threads per inch. <S> So a pitch of 20 would have 20 threads per inch. <S> For metric nuts and bolts, it's measured in mm per thread, so a 1.50 pitch will be a thread every 1.5 mm. <S> The best option, if you can, is to take the existing nut and bolt to the store to find the replacement and ensure you get a proper fit. <A> 15mm is the size of the opening in the wrench that fits across the outside flat surfaces of the nut. <S> The hole might be only 5mm or 6mm in dia. <S> (or maybe not metric at all). <S> Neither diameter nor pitch can be easily determined by just looking at the nut. <S> Can you remove the nut and take it into the store? <S> They will be able to tell what it is. <A> It's not the diameter of the nut but the diameter of the bolt thread at its largest diameter. <S> The inside diameter of the nut only equals the narrow part of the bolt thread. <S> This page explains it perfectly for you; https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Measuring/Measure-Diameter.aspx <A> There are conventions. <S> Bolts are referred by the size of the hole the bolt (not head) will fit. <S> A metric 10mm bolt's threads are commonly 1.5mm, 1.25mm or 1.0mm between threads . <S> By contrast, an English 3/8" bolt is standardized at either 16 or 24 threads per inch . <S> Note the different way to measure threads. <S> I suspect your bolt is one of these. <S> I'd go to a real hardware store and try them all. <S> They won't mind. <S> (Home Depot and Lowes are not hardware stores.) <S> The thread should spin all the way on effortlessly, unless the bolt is chewed up. <S> If the thread binds halfway on, it's the wrong pitch. <S> They make special tools for measuring pitch, or you can simply press your bolt against another bolt from the drawer and see if they interlock fully. <S> If you have a nut, try spinning on bolts from the drawer. <S> Ignore <S> the hex head size - bolts are never identified by that. <S> But it can give hints. <S> Metric (ISO) has no standards for head size, a 10mm bolt can have a 14, 15, 16 or 17mm head. <S> The English (UFS) system does, and a 9/16" head is surely a 3/8" bolt. <S> A 15mm wrench will turn a 9/16" head. <S> By the way, the old Whitworth system works the way you'd expect, bolt hexes are a standard size (for each bolt size) and wrenches are identified by the bolt size they fit. <S> Very posh! <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Whitworth
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However nuts and bolts are designated by the diameter of the hole in the nut, not the size across the outside flat faces. The other necessary measure is the pitch which identifies the number of threads per inch.
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Method to catch multiple mice? I have a mouse problem in my house. I have put out mouse traps and they have been mostly successful. Five mice have been caught within a week. My predicament is that there are still mice and I would like a method that I can use to catch multiple mice with the same trap so I don't have to keep checking/setting them all the time. NOTE: I am open to either fatal/live traps. <Q> Try searching " mouse bucket trap ". <S> There's a ton of different variations, so I'm not going to go into too much detail. <S> But basically it's a bucket, a ramp, some peanut butter, and a rotating mechanism. <S> If you're looking for less lethal, leave the bucket empty, or put in some wood chips or similar. <S> Notice that I said " less lethal ". <S> If you leave mice in the bucket too long, they will get hungry. <S> And mice have no qualms about going cannibal. <A> Poison (Warferin or similar, aka D-CON) Buy more traps. <S> I bought a 10-pack, and had them lined up to get multi-catch. <S> The bucket traps take up a lot of space, don't work in low-ceilinged areas, and require that you not disturb the ramp; even then the mouse often jumps while the soda can is turning. <A> Check your ranch or farm supply store. <S> Just bought a live trap for $7 and it held up to 4 mice. <S> Took a few days bc <S> they were leery, but the peanut butter buffet won. <S> We took them to a field. <S> Note: there was lots of pb for them, but check few times daily. . <S> They ovrrheat quickly and can die. <S> Problem is the scent on the trap for multi use.
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If you want to kill the mice, put some antifreeze (or other poison) in the bucket.
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Basement Bathroom Plumbing - Rough in Backwater Valve I am trying to figure out how in the world to frame this basement bathroom. As you can see from the image, there is a backwater valve that would end up right in the middle of the room. I know that code requires access to this valve and most basement rough ins have this much closer to the sump pump or other mechanical area, not in the middle of the bathroom. Any ideas for how I would be able to run walls for the bathroom? I was planning to go off the pole and section off the room, but I dont know what to do since there will be a valve right next to the toilet. What am I missing or am I looking at this all wrong? Thanks for any help or answers you can provide! Advice? Do I need to jackhammer the floor to move the BWV closer to the sump pump? <Q> While I totally agree it's the wrong place for the BWV, it's not sticking out of the floor. <S> So, is your problem with doing a finished floor? <S> As far as framing goes, I'd include the sump corner & make that whole end into a closet in the powder room. <A> I don't know where your actual drain lines are running, but I'm sure you can find somewhere else that will provide you with access to the BWV. <A> The important question here is where does your main building drain leave <S> the house?Most Municipal codes require the Backwater valve to be the first fixture, if you put it after (upstream)of a floor drain or toilet,you can still flood your home if the city sewer backs up. <S> If the main building drain leaves in the direction of the sump pit , move it closers to the pit <S> and you're good. <A> I don't know if this would work because you didn't give dimensions <S> but you can try a configuration similar to the this <S> You can use the space by the sump pump as storage. <S> Even the towel closet (with the bwv) could be accessible from the sump area instead of from the washroom. <S> You could try this. <S> Or this
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Generally, you should be able to move your backwater valve as close as you want to the pump, so long as you can access it for cleaning it out.
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Should you chamfer CPVC pipe before gluing? In know that PVC should be chamfered and even lightly sanded before gluing for better insertion on the fitting (and probably some other reason). What about CPVC, a manual told me to just cut, apply glue and insert the pipe into the fitting keeping pressure. No sanding, no chamfering and no wiping with primer. Another article told me to chamfer the edges before gluing. So what is the correct procedure? <Q> About the only reason I could see to chamfer the end is that it would seat a mm or 2 deeper in the fitting. <S> In that the glue is solvent welding the plastic, I doubt it makes a lot of difference in the strength of the joint. <S> That said, I don't see that it would be a problem if it helps in joining unless you overdo it (like sharpen the end). <S> As far as I know, primer and sanding serve <S> the same purpose - primer softens the surface and sanding gives more surface area. <S> Both of these improve the performance of the solvent. <S> Whether you need primer or not depends on the glue - there are single step glues that combine the primer and cement <S> and there are two step glues that require priming then gluing. <A> I have owned one for years, it aids insertion and helps remove tailings that otherwise would flow down the line necessitating more thorough flushing (or maybe plugging something up). <S> It's a good practice but no requirement. <S> As for CPVC cleaner or primer, follow the directions on your can of cement. <A> Where the pipe "dead-ends" into the fitting, the fitting's "stop-shoulder" is cut at a right-angle (not chamfered), and the end of pipe after cutting (without chamfering) would also be at a right-angle. <S> So all you would be doing by chamfering the pipe, is reducing (very slightly) <S> the PVC-to-PVC contact (a small 45 degree angle "gap"), once seated. <S> Admittedly, after having said all this, the effect is probably insignificant, as the "lip" of the "stop" inside the fitting, is a fraction of the wall thickness of the pipe, providing little in the way of PVC to PVC contact. <S> The system is obviously designed to satisfy the requirement via thorough application of glue between the external circumference of the pipe, and internal circumference of the fitting. <S> Most important is to ensure a right-angle cut on the pipe. <S> I use a mitre-box and saw when possible. <S> Then, even with clean new pipe, with a fine grit sandpaper, sand lightly the pipe-end circumference to a length equal to the depth of the fitting "stop". <S> Also, "scrub" lightly the cut end with sandpaper on a hard flat surface, or with sandpaper glued to a block of wood (without taking the end "out-of-square"), to ensure cleanliness and maximum contact. <S> Then, wipe where sanded with a clean rage, and make-up the fitting with the glue per instruction, ensuring dead-end contact with the stop-lip in the fitting.
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I can't see any advantage to chamfering the ends of PVC pipe, before applying glue and inserting it into the fitting (elbow, tee, coupling, valve, etc.)
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Cleaning large amounts of cat urine from an occupied house? In a fit of altruism, I adopted five stray cats over a period of time. They came with some problems, which I expected, but two in particular have started something new: Urinating everywhere. It's like a contest. Floors, walls, cabinets, furniture, appliances - everything is a target. I'm looking for the best method to clean cat urine off of various surfaces - floor laminate & tile, painted drywall, porcelain appliance surfaces, and wooden/pressboard cabinets. I'm hoping to get through my ownership of these cats without having to completely gut my house when they've finally passed on. I'm considering a semi-commercial steam-cleaning unit but I don't know if it will (a) destroy things I use it on, and (b) will it actually work? I'm suspicious of advertising claims like "Cleans everything!" Any advice? <Q> I thought they were a gimick at first, but I have had great luck with the "urine destroyer" type enzymatic cleaners. <S> They promise that their "unique enzyme formula" (unique... they all say that) attacks and breaks down the odor causing elements in the urine. <S> I haven't taken the time to research their claims, but we have an old dog with a bad bladder, and the stuff works well on her accidents. <S> It really gets rid of the odor. <S> Once that's done (and you have to let it sit and work until its dry), I'd rent a carpet cleaner and use stain remover to handle any remaining visible stains. <A> To remove urine smell from: undressed concrete: liberally spray it with undiluted vinegar and let it sit. <S> Do this once a day or more for a week, before you decide if it isn't working. <S> tile or (non-hardwood) <S> finished floors: mop as usual with soap <S> and then do it again with vinegar. <S> porcelain: is non-porous, clean as usual. <S> wood; cabinetry: <S> this is a hard one. <S> It will most likely need a light sanding and a coat of varnish. <S> furniture; fabrics: you'll need to research what you have and how to clean it without ruining it. <S> anything painted: paint it again if a simple cleaning won't cut it. <S> carpet: a lost cause IMO. <S> It's always the first thing to go in a remodel or pre-sale. <S> People with allergies will turn around and walk right out of that house, whether or not you think you got the 'smell' out. <S> Be aware that if you clean or cover up the smell the cats might continue to re-mark it even more vigorously. <S> See Pets. <S> SE for more advice (you may be interested in a product called feliway , I didn't have any luck with it but people rave about it). <S> I'd focus on altering the cat's behavior (they're all spade, right?) <S> before engaging in an endless cycle of you cleaning and them spraying. <S> As with all cleaners, test for color fastness in an inconspicuous area first. <A> Mazura's answer is a good start. <S> I have the following comments: the operative compound in urine is ammonia (nitrogen hydride); ammonia is highly soluable in water <S> when ammonia get into a porous substance like plaster or wood, there is no way to easily get it out a basic cleaning of some surfaces can be done by steam cleaning, but there is a limit how far this will work bleach reacts with ammonia, producing chlorine and chloramine gas, both highly toxic; bleach will absolutely destroy any urine it contacts, but on the downside it produces toxic gases <S> Therefore, for a limited area, bleach is a possibility assuming you do not inhale the resulting gases. <S> To decontaminate a whole house however I would recommend ozone. <S> In this process the house is sealed and an ozone machine is run in the house for a day or two. <S> Ozone turns ammonia into ammonium nitrate, an odorless salt. <S> Best of all, ozone can penetrate into plaster and wood or anywhere else urine may have gone. <S> In general, this treatment is the most effective for deodorizing a house and is the method used by professional house flippers. <A> Get urine stain removers. <S> They are affordable and work very we to remove pet urine stains and pet odor from carpets and clothes. <A> Cleaning vinegar with a bit of peroxide and dish soap worked best. <S> I then sealed all porous surfaces with a odor remover primer specific for urine and pets... <S> so far so good
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My suggestion is to get a quality UV light (careful, cheap flashlight units don't work well) and some good enzymatic cleaner and soak all the current stains. There's plenty of advice out there for trying to save your smelly carpet; mine is to toss it.
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How to prevent mold in stored joint compound Joint compound comes in larger containers than I need. I have had this problem for years where storing opened but unused joint compound leads to mold growth, usually starting within a week or two. I'd like this to not happen, or at least extend it to months or years, so I don't need to keep throwing away 95% full containers and buying new ones. The only thing I've really tried is storing it in the fridge after opening. This has inconsistent and limited effect. On rare occasions I have been able to store it for extended periods of time with no mold growth but I was never able to determine how I did that, and upon opening and reclosing those particular containers mold started to grow anyways. So, my question is, how can I make unused joint compound last longer? Are there precautions I can take during use to reduce contamination? Are there ways I can store it to reduce growth? Are there mold killing additives that won't affect its usefulness? Are there certain brands or types I can look for that are less prone to mold growth? Often any molds that grow seem to be mostly in the surface, the joint compound underneath usually seems clean, but I never really want to deal with that mess. <Q> Mold grows on any surface that provides food for growth. <S> Joint compound contains organic compounds and lots of moisture. <S> The compound will only last a finite length of time even under "ideal" conditions (if mold spores don't ruin it drying-out will). <S> To slow down its' expiration time: when storing the compound for any length of time, place the plastic that was included with the compound so it completely covers the top layer. <S> Next, soak a rag in a mixture of 1 gallon water to 1 tablespoon of bleach. <S> Wring it out and place it on top of the plastic. <A> These are good ideas, but the best thing I have done is a combination of the the following: Make sure the mud is flat and there is no dried mud on the sides of the container, I use a large piece of bubble wrap that I put bubble side down after sprinkling the surface of the drywall with about 4 tablespoons of water, finally I use a single chlorine tab that you would put into a pool filter ( I leave the tab in the plastic bag that it came in, and just clip a corner of the bag to let the chlorine gas escape.) <S> This process has allowed me to keep my five gallon drywall mud good for over a year. <S> No drying out, and no mold at all. <A> Mix in a bit of chlorine bleach. <S> It won't affect the compound and the odor dissipates fairly quickly upon use. <A> In my experience the mold is just on the surface. <S> I skim it off with a spatula, add a small amount of chlorine laundry bleach (2-3 oz) with 2-3 drops of a Dove/Dawn dishwashing soap, mix it well, recover it and let it sit for 24 hours. <S> I've never had a problem. <S> Cured dry joint compound does not fit that situation at all. <S> If you want a mold spore free living condition you'll have to build a "bubble house". <A> Joint compound needs air to grow mold. <S> So before you are putting lid on, flatten the compound surface level and then add a couple inches of water, then put on lid. <S> Also if you have mold in your compound just throw it away. <S> Would you want moldy materials put in your house?
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In truth, mold spores are ubiquitous in this world and will grow anywhere under proper conditions, i.e. continually moist conditions. If the lid for the bucket doesn't have a rubber seal place a plastic trash bag on the rim of the bucket and seal tightly with a mallet.
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using two oven in one outlet I have two ovens. One is 20 amp at 240 V and Second is 30 amp at 240V. And I have one 240 V 50 amp outlet hook up to one circuit. Would this be sufficient enough to run two ovens without overheating the wire and overload the circuit breaker? I been told the 1 circuit could handle two appliances. I been told electricity 20+30 amp is not equal to 50 amp. They use the average amperage withdrawal calculation to calculate the circuit could handle it. My question would 50 amp 240 V circuit could handle these two ovens without heating the wire or blowing the circuit? These ovens will be turn on at the same time. <Q> NEC 220.55 <S> The load for household electric ranges <... <S> > <S> individually rated in excess of 1.75 kW shall be permitted to be calculated in accordance with Table 220.55. <S> Based on note #3; since one range is rated 7.2 kW (30A x 240V) and the other is 4.8 kW (20A x 240V), we are able to simply add the total rated kW of both and multiply it by the demand factor as found in Column B -- you have 2 appliances that are both between 3.5 and 8.75 kW, so the demand factor here is 65%. <S> 7.2 kW + <S> 4.8 kW = <S> 12 <S> kW <S> 12 <S> kW x 65% = 7.8 kW or 7800 <S> W 7800 <S> W / 240 = <S> 32.5A <S> Finally, since the oven circuits are under 600V and noncontinuous loads, the following code applies: NEC 210.19(A)(1)(b) <S> The minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall have an allowable ampacity not less than the maximum load to be served after the application of any adjustment or correction factors. <S> ... <S> , i.e. your conductors (wires) should be sized to at least 32.5A <S> (they should be already) and your breaker should then be sized to your wires (which it is.) <S> Your current 50A breaker will suffice for this application. <A> Sizing branch-circuits for cooking appliances can be complex, and I don't pretend to be an expert in this area. <S> After reading through the NEC, I wasn't clear on how demand factors would work in your situation. <S> After doing a bit of research, I came across this article from ECMAG which states: ... <S> 20A <S> * 240V <S> = 4800W <S> 30A <S> * 240V = 7200W <S> 4800W + 7200W <S> = 12,000W <S> 12,000W <S> / 240V = <S> 50A <A> Derating doesn't work for you since it's based on the theory that you hardly ever use everything at the same time. <S> So you need to bring honest 50A of service to run the 2 ovens. <S> Remember, breakers protect wires. <S> I would make sure the breaker is 50A and the wire is 6 gauge, remove the 50A outlet and install a 30A outlet and 20A outlet right next to it. <S> That will make it impossible to plug in more than 50A of devices. <S> My guess is, 6 gauge wire will not fit on a 20A outlet, and may not fit on a 30A outlet either. <S> In that case, pigtail both outlets (10-12 gauge for 20A and 8-10 gauge for 30A) and join them together with a splice technique rated for 50 amps. <S> I take it these ovens' heater elements will cycle on and off to hold set temperature? <S> Reason I ask is, if they don't cycle and do run at max possible power continuously, for more than 3 hours, that is what the Code calls a "continuous" load <S> and you must increase current capacity by 20%. <S> Copper is cheap, pulling wire is hard.
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In that case, or if you just want to overdesign it, you could install a 30A breaker and 30A outlet on the existing wire run, and pull a second wire run of 10 gauge, connect that to a 20A outlet and a 20A breaker. Derating is not permitted when one branch circuit supplies two ovens and no cooktop. So you'll have to size the overcurrent protection and conductors to a 50 ampere load. Which means you'll have to simply add the loads In your case, the entire point of having two ovens is to use both at once. You may want to use an extra-deep electrical box for this.
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What's required to wire a repurposed cooktop in my shed? A friend gave me a stovetop that was separate from the oven which burnt out.The two pieces were inserted into cabinets .I want to hook up the stove top in my shed for cooking. Its the type that has all the knobs built into the top.The problem is that theres only two wires plus a bare ground coming out of it.How do I hook this up? <Q> You don't say what region of the world you're in, but that's commonly referred to as a "cooktop" in the US, distinct from an electric range. <S> (which is a standalone appliance that includes the oven.) <S> But both cooktops and ranges can have "3-wire" hookups in older units, where more modern appliances will now use 4-wire hookups, which adds neutral as the fourth conductor. <S> Two of the three wires are hot, and the third is the ground. <S> With 4-wire hookups, a neutral is also included. <S> If that is what you have, it requires 240volt (in the US) power. <S> Do you have that in your shed? <S> You would need to hook the two hot leads up to an appropriately sized dual-pole breaker, red to one pole and black to the other, ground to ground. <A> Get the make & model of the unit & then search for the electrical specifications. <S> You want to determine the required voltage, current, frequency, & phase (e.g.: 120VAC, <S> 20A, 60 Hz, single phase OR 220VAC, 30A, 60 Hz, single phase <-- US & US-like power grids). <S> You also want to determine how the internal wiring should be connected to your source power. <S> That information should be in the installation guild for the unit. <S> If it can't be found, then you can obtain wiring diagrams online that will show the correct wiring connectivity. <S> That cabling will safely carry the amount of current that your cooktop requires. <S> It will also be rated for how you plan to run it. <S> For example, if you intend to bury the cable, it will be rated for burial. <S> If you intend to run it inside conduit, it will be rated appropriately for that situation, etc. <S> If you are not experienced in working with electricity, I highly suggest you get someone who is experienced to do the final connectivity & testing for you. <S> hth Best Regards! <A> There'll be a plate on the unit that will tell you what it requires for power. <S> It'll tell you Voltage (120V or almost certainly 240v) and current in Amps (20A, 30A, 40A, 50A etc.) <S> You'll need a dedicated circuit (breaker) so this must run all the way to your service panel (breaker box). <S> The wire must be 12 gauge if 20A 10 gauge if 30A 8 gauge if 40A 6 gauge if 50A 95% of this job will be constructing a physical route for the wiring to go through, especially if the shed is detached from your home. <S> Just saying: you don't need to be a licensed electrician to create that route. <S> It helps to be geeky about NEC and general construction practices <S> so you get it right.
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Based on the above information & the distance from your cooktop to your electrical power, you will need to get the proper cabling.
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Caulk or Grout the base of a toilet? I recently re-tiled my bathroom floor and removed the toilet to do so. I noticed that the builders had used grout around the base of the toilet when I was removing it and demoing the tile. Should I use grout or caulk around the base of the toilet? I've read some things that would suggest caulk is a better option. The toilet is installed with the appropriate wax ring and is working fine. I do notice the slightest rocking if I push on the toilet. I'm guessing this is due to the floor not being completely level. The flange bolts are as tight as I'm willing to go with them w/o risk of cracking the porcelain. Will the grout/caulk help to completely stabilize the toilet as well? <Q> The grout may help to keep the toilet stabile for awhile, but to ensure it remains level and secure you should install shims. <S> I've used plastic building shims that can be snapped-off at 2 inch increments. <S> Any flat material that is water-proof will do. <S> Loosen the bolts at the base of the toilet first. <S> Place a level on the rim of the bowl and shim up the low side slightly past level. <S> Snug the shim side and than the other side. <S> You can now either grout or caulk. <S> Caulk is quick and easy to clean up. <S> Grout will support the toilet better. <A> If the toilet does develop a leak, it will be restricted under the toilet and the subfloor, and may leak for a while before it is detected. <S> So much for that. <S> The toilet can be shimmed to keep it from rocking. <S> Because of the rocking, what is not leaking now eventually will leak. <S> The grout that the other installer used will act as shims to keep it from rocking as well, but back at the "if it leaks" issue. <S> If you feel you need to seal it in some way, do not seal it 100%. <S> Leave an inch or so not sealed at the back where it is not noticeable, <S> that way it will look good and water can get out if need be. <A> NEITHER !!! <S> I don't care what code says. <S> I have had 40 <S> + houses inspected the past 15 years, never caulked one toilet, never had one inspector ask me to. <S> I have had a few point it out and say they don't either <S> but that is it. <S> Points: <S> caulk or grout does not stabilize your toilet. <S> A flat surface does this. <S> If your surface is not flat there are things you can buy to help under the toilet. <S> Using grout to do this is ludicrous. <S> It will eventually fail and be a mess in your bathroom. <S> This is really <S> half-assed my first issue with caulk is that it would hide small leaks. <S> I want to know right away <S> if human waste was leaking into my house - don't care if it is a few drops a month. <S> To me this is more than enough reason to never do it. <S> but then point <S> number two is how do you expect your caulk to look after 6 months in your bathroom. <S> Better buy yellow caulk. <S> There is nothing worse than having guests over using your guest bathroom that your kids use seeing pee pee caulk. <S> There are some dumb codes in the book, some dumber than this one. <S> No decent inspector would ever enforce crap like this as he wouldn't enforce the 50 other dumb codes in the book. <S> I remember asking the last inspector that pointed it out, <S> "Would I caulk it if the bathroom was carpet?" <S> He says, "Who would carpet a bathroom?" <S> I say, "Who would caulk a toilet?" <A> I've always used clear silicone, for several reasons: <S> It doesn't ruin the clean line of the white toilet against the flooring. <S> White caulk, unless perfectly applied, results in a wavy, eye-catching line against non-white flooring. <S> It bonds well and doesn't shrink significantly. <S> Toilets are imperfect porcelain structures, and as such may rock slightly even on flat, level floors. <S> A well-applied, concave bead makes for a very solid installation. <S> My technique is to cut a small, angled opening on the tube nozzle, then trim the very tip flat. <S> You shouldn't have to tool the bead if you're careful and smooth. <S> It can be cut and removed fairly easily to replace or reset a toilet. <S> Grout, not so much. <S> That said, I don't caulk the back side of the toilet for the reason others have mentioned--if there's a leak, you want to know about it. <S> As to yellow stains, I've never seen that issue. <S> If that much urine is hitting the floor, the solution lies elsewhere. <A> If your caulk is turning yellow, that's because you've used paintable caulking. <S> Silicone is water- and urine-tight, non staining.
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Code requires toilets to be caulked at the floor, that, IMO is a mistake.
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Is this a drain cover or an electrical outlet cover? Can anyone tell whether this is a drain cover or an electrical outlet cover? Former homeowners converted a garage to a family room ~20 years ago including extensive water drainage reorientation. The room appears to have been carpeted at one time. Photo shows a 5+11/16" circular brittle plastic cover with a 4" capsule-shaped recess holding two metal screws (rusted and stripped) on either side of a large 4-sided phillips-shaped indentation (shallow, stripped). Original color (grey? or white) obscured by cement treatment. It rises 3/8" above cement floor level. If it's an outlet, we want to use it; whereas, if it's a drain, we want to leave it alone. <Q> My bet would be on it being a receptacle. <S> Typically floor boxes like this are installed raised up a little, so as to accommodate carpet or other flooring. <S> I would also bet on it being a single outlet. <S> Since we can see a shadow from the center box, I'd say pry it off of there as best you can. <A> It should be safe to use an appropriately sized philips driver to open the plug in the middle and look inside. <S> (It looks large. <S> Don't strip it with a small driver.) <A> It's an electrical outlet cover. <S> We had them at one of my previous places of employment. <S> We actually had two separate sets of them offset by a few feet under the floor of office space. <S> The second set was for our computer networks. <S> The center plug is to keep debris out of any outlets not in use.
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It's hard to say, but looks like an outlet to me. Most likely the center cap is covering the outlet and the outer screws are there to hold everything on.
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Red wire to green? Old electric wiring circa 1949 to new dimmer I installed a lighting fixture in the hall, running off an older fixture. It worked fine with the existing switches. Then I wanted to replace one of the two old switches (circa 1949) with a dimmer (lamps are dimmable LEDs). When I took out the old switch, there were three colors of wire from the box: black, white, and red. The dimmer has two black and one green. I connected the dimmer wires to the box wires in the position they had been respectively on the old switch, but was unsure about the red/green connection. I did it, and the dimmer worked. But now when I flip the second old switch - identical to the one I replaced - it trips the breaker, and did so until the breaker wouldn't even power on. So I removed the dimmer, and everything else on the breaker works fine - except the hall lights, which won't power on (I understand, I think, that there must be a switch connected to each outlet to close the loop in order for the lights to power). Should I cap the red wire extending from the box, and just wire the green/ground from the new dimmer to the box? <Q> It sounds like you replaced a three way switch with a two way switch and wired a traveler to the ground. <S> Flipping the second switch created a direct short to ground that can result in enough current to damage the breaker, wiring, and other devices on the circuit. <S> Not only can you damage parts of that circuit, you are creating a fire and electrocution risk. <S> There are plenty of guides on how to properly wire a 3 way switch both here and other places online, and it's typically a DIY project, but if you're making mistakes like not properly identifying a traveler vs a ground and knowing which wires are hot, I'd advise you to hire a professional to properly replace devices like this. <A> Sounds like you've really screwed the pooch now. <S> You cannot make random decisions when doing electrical work. <S> By shorting Line to ground, and doing that repeatedly, you probably caused fire damage to the cabling in your walls between the switches. <S> Now you get to rip down all of the drywall between them to replace the wiring. <S> Look on the bright side though. <S> You didn't burn the whole house down, despite how hard you were trying. <S> I'm assuming this all happened days ago. <S> If its only been a few minutes you should probably call the fire department now if you smell any smoke. <A> You need a dimmer made for a "3-way switch" installation. <S> When you have two switches that control the same light, it's called a "3-way" switch, and it uses three wires rather than the two a normal switch uses. <S> A "3-way" dimmer will have a screw for the extra wire.
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When you connected the red wire to the green on the new dimmer, the circuit was being shorted to ground when you flipped the other switch and the breaker would trip.
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Ramset nails not flush with basement frame wall I built my first wall in my basement when I started to frame and I bought the Ramset MasterShot 0.22 gun from Home Depot and read up on everything and when I used it to nail my treated 2x4 to the cement the nails don't seem to go down all the way. Here is a picture of how far they go. I'm using the yellow powder which should be plenty powerful enough and the 2 1/2 nails which are meant for nailing 2x4 to concrete. <Q> If this is a base plate on the floor for a wall, you're fine as is <S> and it pretty much happens to everyone. <S> The nail is embedded in concrete, the floor keeps the base plate from moving lower, the nail's job is to keep it from moving side to side, and the wall you build on top of it is what will keep it from lifting up the small distance you see there. <S> I wouldn't attempt to force it lower since you risk bending or breaking the nail, or fracturing the concrete that you have a solid bond to now. <S> As for why this happens, not all concrete is the same strength, especially if it's had a long time to fully cure. <S> A charge that might work on one floor can easily come up short on another. <S> I've also seen a firm grip on the tool and solid hand with the hammer (for the hammer style ramsets) can make a big difference. <A> These nails are not meant to sink even with the wood. <S> Your framing should be very snug to joists and let the wood get itself straight. <S> Meaning that the nails at the plates don't do much. <S> When I am framing a basement I usually put in 3 per 8' board. <S> I would be happy with your depth and would want it no more than an inch in concrete. <S> Meaning the wall isn't moving any, but if someone needs to take the wall up they can do so with a prybar or hammer. <S> If your bottom plate doesn't wiggle and you can kick it <S> you are good. <S> Note: <S> I have my guys send pics of framing when I am not at site and if they sent me yours I would be happy (well not happy with close-up but happy with nail depth) <S> If you look at the picture below from the Ramset guide . <S> Your installation is a normal removable installation. <S> And there is no way a basement wall should be permanent. <S> Also not that the fastening power is actually created from the heat produced during the shot. <A> I will guarantee you that plate will stay there until somebody pulls it up. <S> There is a good bury on the nail point, you could strike it with a hammer if the plate is stable. <S> If plate vibrates, there is a strong possibility that the nail will blow out a big chip and the nail will loose what hold it had. <S> To solve it, use a red load, that should get it down flush or lower which works too. <S> Still the nail will hold very well like it is. <A> Putting in a second load will secure the screw all the way flush but carries a high chance of chipping the concrete <A> I always seem to have this problem with powder setting. <S> I have one of the hammer actuated ones like this one (it quite possibly is that one -- <S> I haven't had it out in a while): <S> What I usually do is load another charge in the gun and fire it over the same nail to set it. <S> As far as the safety of doing this with any particular tool goes, my disclaimer is that this technique isn't mentioned one way or another in the instructions that came with mine. <S> My method may quite well be stupid or dangerous, so if you try this, you do so at your own risk just like I do mine. <S> Image courtesy of http://www.zoro.com/powers-fasteners-powder-actuated-tool-single-shot-52013-pwr/i/G8724161/
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If your framing is done right these nails should provide nothing more than bump resistance for the wall.
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How to Lower the Ouptut of Oversized Furnace Questions I would like to lower the output capacity of my furnace if possible. How can I do this? Is it worth doing, or should I just live with it? Is there an easy way? Some ideas: replace burner nozzles with smaller nozzles, replace burner with smaller burner if this exists, close the left of the four nozzles on the burner and move the flame sensor to the third. Since the burner and heat exchange seem to be designed to work together I assume that adjusting the burner output would screw with the efficiency of the system. Reasoning I purchased a house with furnaces that have a higher capacity than necessary for the space they heat. I found this out recently when I closed a small vent to one room that is not used often. Closing this one vent, not fully maybe 75% closed, triggered the high limit switch a few times and eventually the lockout. After opening the vent and resetting the system things have been fine. The cycles are still pretty short, but the high limit has not been triggered again since. The system is a Trane 80k BTU 80% efficient, forced air unit. Blower seems to be set to highest setting for heat rather than a lower setting. The heated space is around 1,100 square feet, upstairs with decent insulation and on the south side of Atlanta GA where it does not get too cold. Square footage is potentially lower due to the system not actually interacting with the hall if doors are closes. Returns and positive vents are all in rooms; hall stays warm from lower system. I did some rough estimation and figure I need somewhere between 30 and 40 thousand BTUs of output and am getting around 64k BTUs. Saftey I figure tinkering with the furnace to lower its capacity is not safe and will keep this in the forefront of my mind. No lectures necessary. <Q> If partially closing a single supply vent caused your high limit to trip you probably have an restriction problem. <S> I would recommend investigating a bypass damper with a return and supply temp. <S> sensor. <S> These devices are typically just a part of a whole house zoning system, but can be used to easily resolve supply air restrictions in situations where modifying existing duct runs is not practical. <S> Essentially, the bypass damper dumps excess air back in to the return. <S> The two sensors ensure that you don't exceed safe operating temperatures without reaching the max temp of the high limit in the winter or freezing the system up in the summer. <S> The only brand I have used EWC Controls which work just fine, <S> but there are other brands available. <S> footnote: <S> reducing the static pressure of your system will reduce energy usage. <A> Cut the gas back some by slightly closing the gas valve (the one on the pipe, not in the unit), however be prepared to have to reset the furnace occasionally if your local gas pressure drops intermittently. <S> Watch the flames as you do it. <S> Just, "take the edge off". <S> This will cost you more in electricity, as it'll run longer to come up to temp, but it will bring you a more even comfort level. <S> I'm unsure what effect this will have on the efficiency of the heat exchanger, but at least it will work . <S> The last place that I lived where I had to do this, I also kept the fan set to on in the winter. <S> My concern was comfort over efficiency. <S> Note, part of my problem was the T-stat becoming satisfied before it should have, but I think the same solution applies - unless you want to start spending money. <S> A quick hop online* tells me efficiency <S> probably drops like a rock if you do this, but it sure is one way to lower the output of an oversized furnace. <S> *...adjust your thermostat for the widest differential your comfort will tolerate to obtain the best efficiency and equipment service length. <S> – Define "Short Cycling" , hvac-talk.com <A> You can't. <S> I have the same problem. <S> My house has a 125,000 BTU furnace for a 25,000 BTU heat load. <S> My solution? <S> I set the thermostat at 69 and turn it on manually when the temperature falls below 65 or so. <S> This ensures that the furnace runs for a nice long time when it's on, and then stays off the rest of the time. <S> But you don't really even need to do this at all. <S> If you have a 64,000 BTU output furnace but your rough calculated heat load is 30-40,000 BTUs, that's not really so bad as furnace oversizing goes. <S> I wouldn't worry about it. <S> In 20 years when you need to replace the furnace, get a smaller two-stage model. <A> I know this is an old post, but thought I could help future visits. <S> My house is about 1900sf and my furnace is a 135k BTU (a bit much). <S> In my case I had a cracked heat exchanger and the crack was very close to the high limit switch, which of course kept shutting the unit off. <S> I also found that the inside of the a-coil was very dirty/if not partially clogged. <A> I solve it slightly different way, using Macromatic TR-6512U repeat cycle relay. <S> This relay has independent ON time and OFF time settings from 5Sec. <S> to 100 Hrs. <S> It is very important that relay is ON First. <S> It works on any voltage from 24V-240VAC. <S> My thermostat drives the relay and contacts turns on gas valve. <S> I observed my Hi limit first it usually took about 12 minutes on average for the Hi-limit to trip, so I set my ON time to 8 minutes ON followed by 35 Sec. <S> OFF time. <S> Your setting may have to be different. <S> My problem is the way my daughters arranged furniture in their rooms, every single register is blocked and as you can guess it is not negotiable. <S> I play with it for about three days. <S> Basically you must turn gas valve OFF before Hi limit dose and turn it back ON when temperature of the heat exchanger drops about 10-15 Deg. <S> This way you don't even notice the fluctuation at the registers. <S> This is working 100% for me. <S> Good luck. <A> My Trane (5 yr old) has different possible blower settings for the heat and non-heat periods. <S> My house was getting chilly in spots. <S> So, I turned the fan up during the periods when the thermostat was not calling for heat. <S> That circulates the air and has made the house a more even temperature. <S> Meanwhile, the blower setting when the furnace is on has been set to lower than max. <S> There are instructions for this on the panel door, but I had the installer do it. <A> Having an oversized furnace compared to the needs of the conditioned space should not cause furnace limit problems unless the duct system is too small. <S> If the furnace was installed by the same people as the duct system they should be allowed to address the problem. <S> There are limits to how many outlets can be closed without causing this problem.
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So I would say if you are having high limit issues, have the fan side of the a-coil cleaned and check for a crack in the exchanger by simply removing the high limit switch and inspecting the heat exchanger for cracks, which is pretty common on over-sized furnaces.
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Why would three-way switch travelers both show as hot? We have a three-way switch setup to control our living room light. Our staircase is on the far wall of our living room and one switch is downstairs while the other is at the top of the stairs. The last owner of the home 'completely rewired' the house as it used to have knob-and-tube wiring. However, we've found out since that he only did this in easily accessible areas and anywhere else that he opened the boxes at, he simply pigtailed off of the old wires to feed the new devices. The problem with the switches was that they both seemed to act as single pole switches in series.. the upstairs switch had to be on for the downstairs switch to work. The switch upstairs was a new three-way switch connected up in that pigtail fashion. The switch downstairs, which we didn't notice until we took the cover off, was a really old three-way switch that was still connected with the original wires (appears it was never modified.) After taking it off of the lines, we were able to see that it must have been fried internally as a continuity test showed that when it was flipped one way, there would be no power to either traveler. However, if it was flipped the other, both travelers would become powered. We figured this was the problem (even though I'm not sure why it would function as it did), added a new switch in it's place, and reconnected the wires on both switches. The switch that was upstairs was put in place downstairs and we added a new three-way upstairs (not sure entirely why, we just happened to carry it down with us) and so I'm wondering if it could have been fried as well on the inside. As I still don't get why the circuit was acting like two single pole switches. The power fed in through the downstairs switch, went up the walls to the second floor switch, and then went to the light back downstairs and finally fed it's way back to the panel (the neutrals weren't run together originally). I'm not sure where the homeowner tied the old wires to the new ones, but there are no old wires ran into the panel, so he's had to of done it somewhere. So now, our light works as desired - both switches can cut it on or off in any layout. I gave the above information in case it helps explain any of what I'm wondering about. While we were testing it, I used a non-contact voltage tester at the upstairs switch to see which were hot to insure that we weren't having the same problem as last time. Although the switches work perfectly by visual of the living room light, every other flip of the downstairs switch was showing both travelers hot. Flip it one way and we'd have power to say the left, but flip it the other and both sides were getting powered.. as far as the voltage tester showed. The downstairs switch would work by diverting the power from traveler to traveler, while the upstairs switch would work by picking which side to accept power from. So if both travelers are getting power, then why would either switch still work at cutting the light off? Possibly just a small amount of power bleeding through? <Q> In this setup, the load is switched between H-N (on), H-H (off), N-H (on), and N-N (off). <S> Since the 3 ways have the load on the common terminal, the "travelers" can both test hot. <S> Another old 3-way setup that used to be common with knob and tube was a travelling bus or Calfiornia 3 way: <S> Image from http://www.electriciantalk.com/f29/threeway-nightmare-41332/index2/ <S> It's possible to do the same thing with the hot being switched, in which case you can also have 2 live "travelers". <S> Note that the top layout hasn't met code for a long time (or the bottom with a switched neutral), <S> but at the same time you can't assume that you won't run into them (or various other 3-way wiring patterns) in an old house. <S> The best way to test for non-conventional wiring like this is with a multimeter at the fixture. <S> Test (what should be) <S> the hot and neutral with different combinations of switch positions and <S> you should be able to sort out how it was wired. <A> I used a non-contact voltage tester at the upstairs switch to see which were hot <S> For others who came across this question because they are using a no-contact tester and seeing both travelers as "hot" when the switch(es) are completely unloaded, it's worth pointing out that one of these is likely a phantom voltage . <S> Apparently this is quite common and normal with three-way switches . <S> Before jumping to the conclusion that a newly purchased three-way switch is faulty, make sure to completely connect your load (lamp+bulb, for example) to your circuit, including checking that neutral wires are connected and that all switches and the fixture are grounded. <S> Although it doesn't sound like it was the problem in this particular example, it seems like a common caveat when using NCV testers. <A> I found this on another site and it helped me get the three way switches working correctly: There is always a chance that one or both switches are worn out...and must be replaced.. <S> Assuming that the switches worked previously, and that only the switch terminal connections are wired wrong, I advise the following procedure. <S> If you are comfortable using a voltmeter or a neon tester. <S> Follow these easy steps (for 2 -3 way switches). <S> 1) Turn the power OFF and physically remove both switches, and take off the wires from the switches only. <S> You do NOT have to remove the GROUND WIRE. <S> This will leave 6 exposed wires (3 in each box). <S> 2) Turn the power ON and identify the HOT wire (it will be the only one of six). <S> Measure between each wire and the metal boxes or GROUND WIRE until you find it.(remember this wire) <S> Mark this wire 3) <S> The HOT wire found in step 2 is the COMMON wire, and goes on the DARKEST screw of the switch. <S> The other 2 wires can go on either of the two remaining screws. <S> Wire this switch (#1) back up and put it back into the box. <S> This switch (#1) is now correct and you can focus on the other switch. <S> (#2). <S> 4) Turn the power back ON and identify a HOT wire at switch box (#2). <S> The COMMON wire at this switch (#2) box is the wire that was NOT HOT . <S> (remember this wire) <S> Then turn power back OFF. <S> Mark this wire 5) <S> With the power OFF, wire up the second switch, The COMMON, wire goes on the DARKEST screw of the switch. <S> Then wire up the two HOT wires to the two other screws. <S> Hope this helps <A> Very good definition, I would only add, if you have the power off you could also ring out the travelers so the same wire was on the same screw at both switch locations. <S> Doing this would ensure correct wiring. <S> Other then that it looks good.
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Then toggle the (#1) switch and identify another HOT wire at box (#2). If it was wired with knob and tube originally, it's possible that the 3 way switch was old enough to be wired as "Carter 3-way": Image from Popular Mechanics, October, 1971 I've run into this a couple times, although in all the times I've seen it the neutral was being switched. Then turn power back OFF.
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measuring electricity on a shared circuit I live in a flat above a business and my utilities are all shared with the business. I need to measure my electricity usage so I can reimburse the business. I do not need to measure the gas. Can I plug in or installone meter to measure all my usage? Do I need to put a power use meter on each used socket and ad up the numbers on all these socket meters?Thanks <Q> You're looking for a home energy meter. <S> These are available with a clamp-on current meter and wireless remote display. <S> There are several details missing from your question. <S> What country you are in. <S> Where the fuseboard is. <S> If you are sharing a fuseboard with the business than the situation becomes more difficult as you would have to monitor each of the lighting, socket, cooker, water heater, etc., circuits individually. <A> Yea, I would say this not legal anywhere in the world. <S> If the electricity is provided to a unit, its for the unit. <S> This is fire regulation rules basically used all over the world. <S> The only way really, is to find the source cable of the power in the flat. <S> I assume it is one, 10mm core cable that comes out from the main distribution board and goes to another distribution board? <S> But that is wish full thinking. <S> I bet, the source in your flat, are various cables coming out of the main distribution board, each with its own circuit breaker, because thats the legal and proper way of doing it if the DB are not split. <S> I can only advise, to tally up your devices and create a reach out bill. <S> Or use your neighbours bill, or find online resources for your areas average home usage, for the reach out estimate and adjust the total upwards accordingly (what ever you think is fair) <S> Then yearly you apply reach out increases as per your energy bill unit prices, price increases. <S> Your other alternative is to use "Transistors" answer. <A> Scott, there is a simple solution to your question. <S> Use a "Kill A Watt" usage meter. <S> Example = " <S> P3 International P4460 <S> Kill A Watt EZ Electricity Usage Monitor. <S> " You'll find this one on Google. <S> There are a number of different models <S> but they all do the same and are inexpensive (less than $30 US). <S> Plug your appliances into it to gather the info you need to calculate specific use, averages, as well as cost. <S> I've done this in past; hope it helps. <S> John
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If you have a fuseboard for your flat then you just have to monitor the incoming cable. For larger items (shared air conditioning for example) - work out an average use and negotiate for a % of the monthly bill.
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Wall on subfloor is load bearing or not? So I want to remove a wall dividing my kitchen and dining room. It is full height, so it could be load bearing. The floor joists under it run in parallel to the wall, which leads me to think it is not load bearing. The joists above it (i.e. the 2nd floor) run parallel to it as well. This makes me think it is not load bearing. Additionally, the footer of the wall is resting on the subfloor which is between two floor joists. What I mean to say is, the wall is not sitting on any sort of support beneath it other than 5/8" ply. It isn't directly over on of the parallel floor joists. This really makes me think it is not load bearing. Thoughts? <Q> The link that BMitch left in the comments is a good guideline. <S> The top 2 answers cover a lot of stuff to check. <S> All in all the best way to check, since the ceiling will need repair anyway, is to remove enough drywall to see the top plate, which is still not a sure thing even if it is a double top plate. <S> I have seen many homes built where non bearing walls had a double top plate. <S> The ceiling needs to be opened up all along the length you plan to remove to see if there is anything bearing on it in the way of headers supporting something on the second floor. <S> Stranger things have happened. <S> It does not have to be a wide opening, just up the nearest joist that runs parallel to the wall is ample. <S> This will also let you see ductwork or plumbing and electrical that will need to be rerouted as well. <S> As a mention, even non bearing walls should have a joist or two under them since the subfloor usually will dip under the load of the non bearing wall. <S> Then yes, if it is non bearing, you will be doing the first floor a favor... <A> I agree entirely...that it's not load bearing. <S> If there were double joists underneath <S> then I'd say it could be, but that would only depend on a bath or such being above it. <A> However, you haven't shown any photos, diagrams, or blueprints. <S> Because of that, there's no way for us to guarantee that it's not bearing. <S> Remove the wall at your own risk.
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Running with the joists though really is the great observation, you'll actually be helping the structure by removing the weight of that wall. A bearing wall would not transfer load through plywood, it would always transfer through structural members. If your description is accurate, it doesn't sound like a load bearing wall.
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Can I run CAT5 cables parallel to low voltage (9v) power cables? The answers to this question clearly state that low voltage and high voltage cables should be kept separate; does this apply to low voltage (9v) power cables and CAT5? The problem: I would like to extend Wi-Fi coverage in my house by using a range extender, the unit is powered by a low voltage (9v) adapter rated at 0.6A. I would like to run the cable for this unit in parallel to the CAT5 cable over a distance of approx 15m, surface mounted in PVC trunking. Will this cause any problems? <Q> There's a decent probability that this won't work due to voltage drop from the power adapter, and not through interference: <S> Voltage Drop Calculator <S> A 15m run using 22AWG wires yields a voltage of 8 at the range extender. <S> This may or may not be sufficient to power the extender. <S> Power over Ethernet devices typically use 48v to minimize the voltage drop. <S> Alternatively, you could use a wifi access point with a powerline ethernet adapter; I've used this setup with great success. <A> You can run a cable next to your CAT cable. <S> The problem is that the twisted pairs cause an electromagnetic field in the cable which is NOT part of the cable causing issues. <S> Running low voltage, even high voltage with a SEPERATE cable next to it never caused me any issues. <S> I even saw them cable tied to each other. <S> The problem only starts when you running Ethernet cable next to full phase cables, ie power to your house, or 2,3 phase cables for big machines. <S> The electrical feedback caused by heavy machinery causes changes in the electromagnetic field on these cables, which affect Ethernet, WiFi, etc, and that is when it is strongly advised to run these cables far away from these power cables. <S> Your puny 0.6A modem wont cause any of this because it doesn't use mechanical engines which generate feedback, just simple linear voltage regulators and filters which help reduce this problem. <S> 100 megabit or gigabit, always ran full speed. <A> That won't cause any problems, but I would consider a PoE Wireless Access Point rather than a range extender. <S> All range extenders cut your throughput in half and significantly increase latency.
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You just cant really use the twisted pairs inside the cat cable, unless you are using PoE devices, which deal with the interfierence.
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Propane gas fireplace pilot won't light I've asked this question before. Now I've posted some pictures as I can't figure out where I should clean. I don't smell propane. I tired lighting manually with a lighter and nothing. I know to turn the valve on, rotate the wheel to pilot. Push in and try igniter. It worked fine 6 months ago. Any suggestions? <Q> Blow into the gas pilot to unclog it. <S> Its definitely not a spider that crawled into it but possibly grease build up. <S> You may want to consider fitting a gas oil filter for your system. <A> If the gas main to the fireplace is on it should provide gas even if the thermocouple is bad. <S> These are the things I usually find. <S> The pilot is a very small flow I usually can’t hear them. <S> Have you tried lighting with a match or lighter? <A> I've discovered that when lighting a gas fueled appliance (water heater) that have a button-type valve that first must be pressed down <S> it doesn't always lite on the first try <S> This is especially true if the shut-off valve at the tank has been off for awhile. <S> The gas line needs to fill and the line pressure is only 2 psi. <S> With the dial on "pilot" push and hold the button for several seconds. <S> Now try to lite it while still pressing the button. <S> It may take several attempts.
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It is possible moisture in the line has plugged the small orifice or spiders have built a nest in that area.
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Old vinyl flooring stuck to tile Many years ago, I placed vinyl sheet flooring over the tile floor of our bathroom without using adhesive. I simply caulked all the way around the edge. Over time, water got under it and I noticed mildew in one of the corners that was lifting up. When I attempted to remove the vinyl flooring, the backing apparently is now stuck to the tile and hardened along with the mildew. It is extremely difficult and tedious to try to scrape it off the tiles. Is there a solvent I can use to make the job easier? <Q> I'm picturing a felt or paper backing that has been partially dissolved and then dried out. <S> It's probably not much different from what happens when you accidentally lay a magazine in a bit of water on your countertop at breakfast and return after work to find it glued down solid. <S> The binders in the paper dissolve and create a weak glue. <S> You haven't mentioned what you've tried, but I'd start with a simple dishsoap solution. <S> A bit of soap won't hurt. <S> Harsher products are likely to damage wall finishes and grout. <S> You could also create your own solution of white vinegar and/or lemon juice. <S> More on that . <A> You can try Xylene or other volatiles. <S> Because I'm a tile layer by trade <S> my answer to everything is muratic acid. <S> 50/50 w/water. <S> If that doesn't work find s Ace hardware (only place to get this) <S> buy a big hug of 'Wink' brand rust stain remover. <S> Its mainly hydrofluoric acid. <S> It will breakdown any adhesive - The Texas Tile Guy <A> You can try Acetone or nail polish remover, but you need some really good ventilation. <S> You best bets are actually a heat gun, hair dryer or clothing iron. <S> Those will heat up everything & since it wasn't glued it should just peel right off with that assistance. <S> Heat gun & hair dryer is usually 10-15 seconds at your starting point & then goes a little faster as you keep expanding the heated area. <S> You'd be just trying to heat things up & not burn nor melt anything. <S> Test the heat with your putty knife to gauge how long is needed frequently & you'll soon get into a rhythm.
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Water caused the adhesion, and water may remove it as well. Otherwise, I'd look at something fairly mild like wallpaper paste remover first. The clothing iron needs the surface sprayed with water & use it in steam mode to then just move it around in small circles.
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Basement egress through office I have a question that is similar, but different, than: Can I have an office in my basement without egress? I want to finish off my basement as such: My question is, by putting the red walls up, am I closing off an egress for the rest of the basement? Does it matter since there are no bedrooms down there? What if the Office were to turn into a bedroom. Would there be any problems since the bedroom has external access? <Q> Yes, this allowed according to recent versions of the IRC building code. <S> (If your state or region has a different building code you will need to look it up yourself or specify.) <S> To quote the code: <S> R310.1 Emergency escape and rescue required. <S> Basements and every sleeping room shall have at least one operable emergency and rescue opening. <S> Such opening shall open directly into a public street, public alley, yard or court. <S> It can't just be a route outside. <S> If you convert the "office" to a bedroom, that is also allowed, but you could not convert the "family area" into a basement without adding an additional exit. <S> (You may wish to read the rest of that section since there are additional requirements and definitions, but that is the gist of it.) <A> If the red flaps on the red wall are doors, you should be fine, so long as the doors are and remain functional, and cannot be locked in the egress direction - i.e. from the "family room" to the office. <A> The only answer is to ask your inspector. <S> I can't see why in any case this would pose a problem as you have doors. <S> The whole point of the egress is accessibility. <S> Your basement has to two points in two different areas and really whether you have a door there or not.
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Since there are no bedrooms in this basement, a single exit from the basement is allowed. So in short it only counts as an emergency exit if it leads directly outside. However the short answer to any code question is always "whatever your local inspector says", since they are the ones that have the final say or not.
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Is it required for effectiveness to stretch interior window film? Thanks in advance! Please let me know if I should provide more specific information, or if this is covered somewhere else. Short version: I am using a Frost King window insulation kit on a window. Can I skip the hairdryer step and still get a good amount of insulating effect? Long version: I am using a Frost King window insulation kit on a window. The way these work is that you tape a plastic sheet to your window frame (or some surface surrounding the window), then use a hairdryer on the plastic sheet to pull it taut. My window frame is very bumpy (not a nice flat surface for me to stick the sheet onto), plus there is a window air conditioning unit sticking out in the middle (I can't take it out). Unless I want to cut the included plastic sheet into a more complex shape, the hairdryer step described above causes the plastic sheet to pull away from the tape's contact surface as it is drawn taut. So my question is simple: Can I just skip the hairdryer step if I don't care what the end product looks like, or is the hairdryer step necessary to produce the insulating effect? Will I still get some benefit if I skip the hairdryer step? <Q> Tightening the transparent plastic is mainly for cosmetic reasons. <S> As long as the tape stays in place, the plastic will do its job of preventing air flow. <S> If the kit is exposed to buffeting winds strong enough to snap the plastic sheet back and forth, it could tear or pull off the tape. <S> So you want it to be as tight as possible. <S> In general most people find that it's impossible to pull the sheet tight without leaving a few wrinkles, but after using the right color tape and shrinking the plastic a little, the result is indistinguishable from a windowpane. <S> In your case, with that AC in place, you're not going to get a windowpane effect anyway, so just pull it tight manually. <S> You might consider taping both the inside and outside to help prevent loosening or blowout. <S> EDIT: I have just learned of another reason for tightening a window film. <S> The ideal separation distance between film and glass is 1/2 inch. <S> Even 1 inch is too thick as it allows the trapped air to circulate freely within the gap. <S> But at 1/2 inch, unless the plastic film is quite tight, it will bow in and stick to the glass over at least part of the window. <S> I know this remark does not apply to the OP's circumstance <S> but I include it here for the general case. <A> The hairdryer step is for two reasons: To prevent noise in drafty situations, and to improve visibility and aesthetics. <S> If you can live without either of those, it'll work just fine. <S> One possible solution to your pull-away problem would be to apply the double-stick tape to the outside face of the window trim (perpendicular to the wall surface). <A> Try removing the window air conditioner. <S> You're not honestly expecting to use it, and being indoors will lengthen the unit's life. <A> There is an efficiency factor in pulling the plastic tight, but it may or may not be significant. <S> Proper thermal double glazing has a fairly specific air gap distance that is chosen to be as large as possible while being thin enough that the internal air can't establish cycles that allow convection (effectively stirring) to carry heat from one side to the other. <S> If your plastic is in a situation where it moves frequently then the air that is trapped against the window can be moved, and that movement transfers heat. <S> And as another answer said; if it doesn't move but the gap becomes too thin or too thick then it will also lose efficiency.
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The plastic film can not only eliminate through drafts, but can be installed to reduce convection transfer by trapping a thin layer of air against the glass.
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Why is Easy Sand not suitable as a skim coat? I have Easy Sand 90 joint compound. Its label says not to use it as skim coat. Why can't I use it? <Q> Setting-type joint compounds set by chemical reaction with water. <S> When a very thin coat is applied to unpainted drywall (such as the thin skim coat applied to new drywall needed to achieve a level 5 finish), there is a risk the board will suck the water out of the mud before it has a chance to chemically set. <S> If this happens, it will revert back to powder and fall off the wall. <S> Don't do it. <S> If you're talking about skimming an ugly old wall to make it smooth, Easy Sand is fine, maybe even ideal. <S> Just remember that old walls will have multiple layers of paint that could be peeling or delaminating below the surface. <S> As long the old surface is stable, go for it. <S> Just keep it thick enough that it's not translucent. <A> The easy sand is a "light-weight" compound which is why it sands so easily. <S> It sands off very easily. <S> If it is applied as a skim coat it wouldn't last 1 or 2 passes with your sander. <S> You will see this frequently on all types of wall patching products. <S> If it has "light-weight" any place on the label chances are that it will state someplace in the instructions "not to be used as a skim coat". <A> Setting-type joint compounds don't tend to feather out as well as premix compounds, especially if they're not mixed extremely carefully. <S> They're likely to leave a ragged edge requiring much more sanding than should be necessary. <S> Also, per the spec sheet for the product: Do not use setting-type joint compounds for thin skim coats. <S> If setting-type joint compound dries before it sets, bond failure may result. <S> It isn't that you can't use it for finishing <S> , it's that it's not an ideal product. <A> I don't know what you read. <S> From Quick-set.info : Excellent for all phases of finishing, including taping, finishing, filling, patching, skimming, laminating and even texturing. <S> However, it is better to use lower drying time Easy Sand compounds, and you need to make sure you've prepared the surface if needed. <S> Also, "Easy Sand" is not easy to sand, especially the 20 and 5 minute. <S> That's why you have "topping" compound. <A> I’m a 6th generation plaster and we have used this product to skim ten of thousands feet of walls over the last 30 years I’ve been doing it <S> and I <S> no of not one time we ever had a issue. <S> But I just read the bag and it does say that it’s not for skimming! <S> ?????
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If you ever sanded this type of compound you'd see why it shouldn't be applied in thin layers.
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A gentler way to chase electrical sockets I'm in the process of first-fixing a British 1930's house, and although the vast majority of the electrical chasing is done I'm still having trouble finding a safe method to cut out the brickwork for flush fit sockets. Chasing out runs for the cables is reasonably okay (Using an Angle Grinder and then removing the middle), but on a number of occasions I've had to replace whole bricks because they've either broken catastrophically or the mortar has simply failed. This isn't such an issue when the wall is easily accessible from the other side, but I have a number to do in the kitchen and they're close together (I.e., increased risk!) and the other side of the wall is covered. So, frankly, I'm concerned and surely there has to be a better way. The biggest issue is that no matter how I approach it, I always end up chipping away HUGE chunks of brick, sometimes up to whole quarters. And, combined with the old mortar - once that integrity is gone the whole thing just falls to pieces! I'm pretty new to this, so please assume no knowledge on my part whatsoever - perhaps I'm doing something fundamentally wrong. Up to know I've been chasing with a combination of the following: Hammer and ChiselSDS+ Drill with ChiselStich DrillingSDS+ Drill with Scutch Comb I'd appreciate any hints, tips or guides on how to do this in a safer and more gentle manner! <Q> Been in this position many times. <S> The only way to stop it falling apart is to use tools that do not generate such a large percussive shock to the wall. <S> One such device is a masonry saw such as a stihl. <S> On the other hands if your brickwork is that fragile it is hardly something you should be leaving that way. <S> Perhaps do the damage and re mortar it. <A> This is why I would have just surface mounted the electrical. <S> Everytime I've had to pocket brick <S> it didn't have to be pretty. <A> I was recently at a wedding reception at a buidling that was remodeled in an older style. <S> They used copper plumbing piping into old-style lamps (light bulbs). <S> Not a normal thing <S> but they apparently got approval from the local inspector to do something very interesting. <S> Conduit comes in materials other than galvanized steel including materials more impervious to the outdoors like red brass, aluminum, and stainless steel. <S> You could look for some attractive surface mounted boxes using one of these alternative conduits. <S> Or consider painting conduit to match your design. <S> Otherwise, if you still want flush mount exterior receptacles, you are better off removing and repairing your interior wall than channeling the brick on the outside. <S> Channeling leaves the channel to be filled with mortar, caulk, or some other material which doesn't look very good with the old brick exterior either. <S> The best look would be accomplished from the inside. <S> Unfortunately, none of your options will be easy. <S> Good luck!
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The problem, as you have discovered is the fragile nature of the mortar brickwork. So, that said, you could consider running conduit to surface mounted boxes. If you're set on doing recessed, then you get to patch the wall when you're done.
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Why is my refrigerator's water dispenser so slow? I purchased a home that was vacant for over a year. I replaced the filter, but the water flow was SOOOO slow. It took about 6 minutes to fill up a liter. Also the ice cubes were hallow and wispy. I checked the water pressure going into the unit and it was excellent. I read online that if you removed the o rings, the water would move faster. After paying someone to blow out the lines in and out of the unit, I found no difference, so I removed both of the o rings, one at a time. Removing one did nothing. Now my flow is GREAT, but I notice a funny taste in the water. Is it not filtering the water without them?? I need advice...I don't want unhealthy water or it at a SNAILs pace. Ann <Q> After replacing the water inlet valve and the water filter in my refrigerator, the water flow was still very slow with no improvement. <S> After "fishing out" the plastic with a wire, I inserted my water filter and bingo... <S> the problem solved. <A> I had the same problem once, and it turned out that the saddle valve (where the refrigerator supply line connects to a larger pipe) was either partially closed or crudded up. <S> I closed and opened it a few times and my ice cubes were back to normal. <S> Point is, check the supply itself rather than assuming it's a problem with the filter. <S> (And for Pete's sake, put the o-rings back in.) <A> If you're seeing good flow when removing the O-rings, then you've likely bypassed the filter and proven the problem is with water going through the filter itself, rather than any other valves. <S> In addition to the filter being clogged, which means you simply need to replace it, it's also possible that water is freezing inside of the filter. <S> If that's the issue, you can adjust the temperature in the fridge to see if water flow improves (I've experienced this issue when the thermistor started to fail and needed replacing). <S> Lastly, there's the option of filtering the water before it gets into the fridge and then bypassing the filter inside of the fridge if it's giving you issues. <S> They make "in-line" water filters that can be attached to the water line behind the fridge, which would be much less convenient, but may give you fewer issues. <A> Yeah the rings should allow filter bypass & maybe a floor leak. <S> What probably happened is that the filter clogged up with garbage in the line. <S> You'll get a lot of green chunks with a copper line that hasn't been used for just a few months & you'll taste it. <S> Blowing out is more like blowing through, but water & water pressure will really move & remove the most stuff. <S> Fill a few more liters & fill the ice bin a few more times with your current setup to hopefully complete the flushing. <S> There should be a noticeable taste & color, if any now, improvement. <S> Then, put in another new filter to see if you're back into good flow & better water. <S> The filters don't get a whole lot out actually & some make the water dry, you know what I mean if you've ever used a Pur type Faucet Filter Assembly... <S> the faucet's like awesome spring water in comparison to the fridge. <S> And No, the Pur fridge filters aren't any different nor better than any other filter, in my opinion. <A> We had the same problem. <S> I'd offer the following steps To test the water line itself (to delineate it from a water filter issue) we placed the original cap back on the water filter mount in the fridge. <S> If the water is still slow, the issue is in the water line. <S> Our water line was fine (per test #1 above) <S> To test the water filter, we placed the water filter back. <S> The water as once again slow. <S> We then tried a new water filter of the same variety. <S> After getting the air out, the water was again slow. <S> to test water filter mounting (on the refrigerator), we took a spoon and press one of the water trigger buttons to see if it was unblocked. <S> Then we tested the second water trigger button. <S> -Red Arrow pointing to water trigger buttons <S> Both the water trigger buttons on our water filter worked (that is they spouted plenty of water when pressed with a spoon). <S> Test that the water filter is actually pressing hard enough against the water filter mount on the fridge to trigger the water buttons. <S> To do this we place three very small rubber bands (the kind you use for braces) on our water filter around the mounting circular flange and flush against the "screw" band that allows you to tighten the water filter to the filter fridge mount. <S> BINGO! <S> The water filter then worked flawlessly with lots of water coming out. <S> -Blue arrow on rubber band. <S> -Red arrow on circular mounting flange. <S> -Goal is to use rubber band as a spacer to allow the water filter to screw further in (and thus harder against the trigger water buttons on) the refrigerator mount. <S> This completely fixed our slow water filter issue and the characteristic "moaning" noise it was making. <S> Hope that helps, Dan <A> I folded a business card and taped on the back of the filter this allowed it to press the filter in a little further. <S> Worked fantastic !
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So, I took out the water filter, shined a flash light into where the water filter goes, and found some plastic wrapping (trash)...apparently from the nozzle at the end of the water filter that inadvertently didn't get removed before inserting a filter.
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How to run wire through steel garage floor system We are building a carriage house, with a 4 car garage and a basement underneath. The basement has steel I-beams and the metal b-decking that the garage floor is poured on top of as a ceiling. What is the recommended ways of running the electrical along/through/in this type of ceiling? The basement will be used a workshop so I want to be able to put plenty of lights up. There is a gap where the b-decking is laid on the I-beams that I was thinking of running PVC conduit in for the wiring and breaking out into light/pull boxes every 10 ft of run (between each I-beam) or so. Is there a better/preferred method that anyone else has used? <Q> The conduit provides mechanical protection (especially important for a shop) and the nice thing about this it keeps everything accessible, <S> in case you want to add lights or a power drop for a tool or something later. <A> I did a rehab on a warehouse this way, it's the way to go. <S> Use metal EMT conduit and pull the common single-strand THHN wire. <S> You don't have to pull a ground wire, the conduit is the ground (plus, it's screwed or clamped to the building). <S> Use 3/4" conduit wherever you can, it costs little more and is a lot easier to pull wires through especially add-ons. <S> Generally they allow 4 circuits per conduit, so in congested areas, lay 2 or 3 conduits side by side - <S> this is barely more work than laying one, at least at construction time. <S> Check the electrical code for required conduit spacing. <S> Anywhere but a single branch, use 4" boxes, preferably deep ones. <S> Don't be bashful about using 4-11/16 square boxes in places you expect a lot of wires to come together. <S> Be strategic about keeping bends down to a bare minimum between boxes, ideally just one 90 degree. <S> This will make it easier to pull wires. <S> Once the EMT is in place, pulling wire is pretty easy. <S> Feel free to use more colors of wire, e.g. blue for lighting, brown for outlets etc. <S> You won't need any green wire. <A> Since it is a dwelling unit, and the metal is not a roof, then you can wire it like you would any other basement. <S> PVC would be acceptable or MC cable. <S> 1/2" to 1" PVC needs to be supported within 3 feet of a box and every 3 feet thereafter. <S> MC cable needs to be supported within 12 inches of a box and every 6 feet thereafter. <S> Although this may look pretty sloppy <S> so I would support it more often. <S> EMT could also be used and needs support within 3 feet of a box and every 10 feet thereafter so will need less supports/anchors. <S> Since the steel is full of concrete you will need a hammer drill and concrete anchors between the beams. <S> (Or some similar method, maybe stud welding. <S> We use this method often. <S> Or a powder-actuated tool.) <S> Good luck!
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The common way of doing this is to use conduit and surface mount all boxes. You may also risk cracking your garage floor if the anchors you use are too large/long. Alternatively, you may also be able to use MC (armored cable) wiring, though with a quick search I can't find a specific NEC reference to this, so probably best to refer to your local inspector / authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) to check.
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How do I remove this type of screw/nail (Cadet Heater FWC wall can) I am a newbie. I want to remove Cadet Heater wall can and patch up the drywall but it appears that the wall can is secured by 4 round flat screws on the side. I tried pliers but it's small and round so there is nothing to grab onto. What tool can I use to remove this stubborn wall can? <Q> It is more than likely that those are large nails into the framing lumber to the side of the heater housing. <S> There would be a number of ways to remove those. <S> Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel to cut the head off the nail. <S> Then you can use a nail set or punch to drive the remaining body of the nail further into the side stud to allow the housing to be removed. <S> Pound that in under the nail head to get it to start coming out. <S> It may be necessary to use a hammer and pound the metal near the nail head toward the side to free up just a little space under the nail head to let the pry bar get a bite. <S> A small to medium cold chisel and a sledge hammer can be used to chop the head off the nail. <S> It is possible that the cold chisel may start to draw the nail out just enough that you could then remove it with the pry bar. <S> I am not promoting any particular brand of tools here. <S> Just ones I've had good luck with working on this type of problem. <A> Looks like that wall can is attached with nails instead of screws. <S> A pry bar will be your best bet to remove it. <S> Hope that helps! <S> Let us know if you have any more questions. <A> I am happy to report back that after 1 hour (part of it is because I am a newbie), I was able to remove these 8 nails. <S> Tools used: flat head screwdriver, hammer and a 9-inch pry bar. <S> The wall cans are only 14 inches wide. <S> Hammer and screwdriver to create <S> the gap and pry bar goes in to finish the job (only figured that out after I was done with 3 nails).
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Use a pry bar that has a nail puller slot.
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Wall dimmer switch is warm to the touch after leaving the light on - cause for concern? Our house is about 25 years old, though we have lived here less than 2. Our master bath has a dual light switch, one for the main light bar over the sinks and one for the lights above the shower stall and tub. These are both oversized rocker switches with a slider to dim the lights. If we leave the lights over the shower and tub on for an extended period of time - an hour or so - the switch will be noticeably warm to the touch. It does not seem to warm up any further by leaving it on beyond this. The wall switch does not have an internal backlight when it is off. The lights on the circuit are an in-ceiling "can" light over the shower and a gaudy gold chandelier over the tub. Would replacing either of these help alleviate the problem? I have not noticed this problem with the switch for the light over the sinks, though we don't typically leave that one on as long. This circuit consists of two bars of 6 bare-bulb globe lights each. I am relatively confident that the switches are not original to the house, though the light fixtures themselves probably are. ( Edit: Looked at them again this morning, and I'm less confident that the chandelier is original - the medallion is a slightly different color from the ceiling, so it either wasn't painted or was installed later. ) Should I be worried about the operating temperature of the switch? <Q> If this was a normal switch, I would say, no this is not normal. <S> Since the switch does contain a dimmer, it is perfectly normal. <S> Dimmers are electronic devices that do heat up. <S> In fact, because of the heat they create, dimmers are rated for a maximum wattage. <S> That said, you need to calculate the total wattage of the bulbs you are controlling with the switch. <S> If you have 6 bulbs, the max wattage you can use is probably 40W. A typical residential dimmer will have a maximum of 600W (yours will be labeled, probably on the face where its easy to see). <S> Using 12 40W bulbs you have 480W, but using 60W bulbs you would be over-budget at 720W. <S> This is important, because when you are over 600W, the dimmer will still work, but it could possibly get hot enough to damage itself or the wiring connections in the same box. <A> It is perfectly normal for it to be warm. <S> If it's HOT, you might be over capacity. <S> If there is more than one dimmer in a single box, you generally need to snap off the fins on the side(s) to get them to fit. <S> With less heat sink surface area, they can't dissipate the heat as well, so the capacity is reduced. <S> This is known as "de-rating." <S> In a nutshell, a typical residential dimmer rating works like this (For incandescent lights): <S> Both fins intact = <S> 600W <S> One side fins removed = <S> 500W <S> Both side fins removed = <S> 400W <S> Here's a link to a typical manufacture's "manual" for one of these devices: <S> http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/cb/cb27dfa7-40a6-4788-9112-c2a619a4b2e0.pdf Top of page 1 - <S> " <S> Important Notes":Item <S> 7 reads <S> "It is normal for the Dimmer to feel warm to the touch during operation." <S> At the bottom of page two, there's a chart that shows de-rating info and ratings for other types of bulbs (non-incandescent) <S> That's as thoroughly and definitively as I can answer your question! <S> There's also a toll-free number for Lutron at the bottom of that page. <S> I believe they are the leading manufacturer of residential dimmers.dp <A> It is normal for electricity to heat things like wires and switches that it is squeezed through. <S> It always will to some degree. <S> If you touch the prongs on the plug of a powerful vacuum after using for a little while they will likely be uncomfortably hot to the touch; unplugged before touching of course. <S> If you're ever in a church or restaurant with normal switches instead of relays controlling big circuits of lights, the screws holding the switch plate/covers on might be hot enough to burn you. <S> Running 12 bulbs for an hour at 720 watts, 60 each assumed, is a decent load and the heating of switches is not surprising. <S> Replacing with cfl bulbs could cut the load to under 200 watts and probably would eliminate the warming of the switch. <S> The comfort cost of decent light being lost in a bathroom is high though. <S> Never look quite the same in a mirror with monochrome or fixed wavelength light.
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Special high wattage dimmers are available, and they even have integrated heat sinks to help dissipate the heat they generate. I would say no, you should not be concerned about the operating temperature if the switches are only warm.
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Can an electric dryer be vented into a garage? So, I have an unheated garage, but it is insulated. It maintains above freezing due to the contact with the house, but it still gets intolerably cold. I've considered routing my electric dryer out there to help keep it a bit warmer. It's not intentional heating, and would only coincide with the dryer, but I'd think that dumping some hot air into the garage would raise the temperature a bit. Are there any major concerns with doing this? I'm still planning on getting a space heater out there for when I'm actually out there, but I'm thinking that it would be a slightly more productive use of the spent heat in my dryer than just dumping it out the side of my house. <Q> Dryer air is hot, but more importantly, it is very moist. <S> Also, even though your dryer does attempt to catch lint on its internal lint screen, some dust is present in the exhaust air which will eventually cause a mess in the garage. <A> Check your local building/fire codes. <S> Taped drywall joints, taping of any electrical boxes, sealing of any penetrations, self-closing passage doors to the house are all mandated. <S> A 3 or 4 inch duct leading directly to the laundry room would simply not fly... <A> You can use a Dryer Heat Diverter: I've used one for 30 years; in the summer you vent the dryer to the outside, and in the winter you vent it to the space to be heated. <S> For a large garage, the extra humidity in winter won't make a difference. <S> You get about 10k BTUs per run.
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The high humidity might not be a huge issue when it's cold outside, but when it warms up, it could lead to mold or other moisture related issues. Here in Ontario, Canada, blocking any possible flow of carbon monoxide from an attached garage to the house proper is a major concern.
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How can I pour a concrete floor/slab with two levels? I am pouring a slab for a concrete floor for an 1800 sq foot house and would like the bathroom area to be about 3/8" lower than the rest so I can tile it and wind up with the floor and seams that are level throughout once the tile is laid in the depressed area. How can I do this? <Q> I'd pour the slab, leaving a 'hole' where the bath will be. <S> Essentially, you will make a hole in the slab using forms. <S> After the slab sets, remove the forms, come back and pour your slightly-lower slab in the hole that was left. <S> Ideally, use some rebar in the original pour to tie in the new slab for the bath. <S> Alternatively, maybe consider pouring it all flat and use a transition strip between the concrete outside the bath and the slightly raised tile. <S> Alternative option 2: <S> if the whole house is going to be polished concrete, why not the bath too? <S> Maybe stain the bath concrete a different color? <A> Like the OP I wanted to tile the low portion of the concrete -- <S> in my case the low portion is the middle strip of a walkway. <S> I came away from this thread thinking that I would have to pay for two concrete pours on two separate days but the guys I hired did it in one pour. <S> Here is how they did it. <S> The forms for the outside edges of the high areas are as you would expect -- the top edge of the forms defines the top edge of the high area of concrete. <S> But the forms for the small step into the low areas of concrete are built so that the BOTTOM EDGE of the form defines the TOP FACE of the low areas. <S> Also, any stakes that brace the forms for this step-down are placed INSIDE the low area and remain there during the first half of the pour. <S> A first screed is cut with a notch on one end that matches the height of the forms minus the step depth ( <S> e.g. 3-1/2" form minus a 1/2" step = 3" notch). <S> This first screed is used to smooth the concrete so that the step-forms end up bracing only 1/2" of concrete on their high side. <S> A second screed is cut to match the height of the step forms (e.g. 3-1/2"). <S> Finally, after the screeds have been used and the concretes begins to set-up any stakes that have been bracing the step forms may be pulled so the stake-holes can be filled. <S> At this stage, since the step forms are bracing very little concrete, they may be held in place only by cross-members screwed to the tops of the forms. <S> Finish the concrete as usual and you're good to go. <A> Pour it first, after you've checked all of your height, length & width (including stud & drywall depth or minus those depending on your plans) measurements a googol times. <S> If it isn't a full truck then have that truck empty 6' or more away, due to slump run. <S> Cover it completely with 3/8's plywood & stake or screw any exterior wall edge. <S> You'll not only be able to walk on it, but the float work shouldn't be able to move anything... <S> you can insure that with battens screwed over the seams. <S> Still be careful not to knock or shift it while pouring around the room. <S> But, that should work out real good with sharp right angles.
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This screed is used to hollow out the low area so that it's finished depth flush with the bottom of the step form -- so the step-forms end up bracing no concrete on their low side. One end of this screed rides on the top of the high-area forms and the end with the notch rides on the top of the forms that define the step edge. You'll really want to let that setup completely before pouring anywhere near it. I found this thread because I wanted to pour the middle of a walkway 1/2" lower than the outside boarder of the walkway.
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Why am I not getting power to outside outlet? Not getting power to outside outlet but have one outlet that has power on the outside checked the breaker it has not been tripped don't know what to do. How do I fix it to work again? Maybe one month ago I had power, now only my front of the house works and back outside plug don't work both run on same breaker. <Q> An outside outlet either is a GFCI receptacle or it's protected by an upstream GFCI receptacle. <S> For instance, the outlets on the outside of my house are protected by a GFCI outlet in my garage, so they're not even near each other. <S> Find, test and reset all the GFCI outlets in the house and see if that restores power. <A> I agree with JPhi1618. <S> However, outlets do also go bad depending on their quality & heavy usage, even & especially GFCI ones. <S> An electrician can pop-in new ones very quickly & assess the circuit for defects or weak points. <A> Did you check the fuse box? <S> If the fuse is not flipped, run a continuity test. <S> Rats have been known to gnaw through wiring. <S> Hopefully the problem is merely a tripped switch in the main fuse box. <S> If the black wire is hot, reading 115 to 120 V, then the outlet needs to be replaced, a cheap and easy job. <S> BTW, don't assume the black wire is hot. <S> People make mistakes. <S> The contractor may have incorrectly used a white wire as the line. <S> Good luck...and be careful.
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I would also shut the power off, unscrew the plate, pull out the outlet, turn the power back on and carefully use a voltmeter to see if the black wire is hot (the other lead of your meter to ground).
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Very old, Coleman, through the wall (double sided) mounted gas heater not working My home was built in 1957, I had a new heat pump system put in (which I now hate) 7 years ago. It works fine in the summer, but in winter it doesn't heat the house very well. At the time, I kept the old Coleman, through the wall natural gas heater as emergency heat, as works without power to the house. It's old and inefficient, but it's done it's job for 50+ years. This year I replaced the old thermostat,with a new Honeywell round heat only mode. I haven't been able to get it fired up once this winter though. I've contacted a couple of local heat/air places, and noone has ever heard of this heater and don't know how to service it apparently. So I'm trying to troubleshoot it myself and see if the problem is the thermostat, or the unit itself. Am I correct in thinking that if I manually touch the two wires together (red/white), sans thermostat, the unit should come on if it's going to? <Q> I assume you are dealing with a gravity wall furnace, now made by Williams and Empire, and commonly found in California. <S> They require no AC power. <S> They use a thermocouple on the pilot light to power (via the thermostat) a millivolt gas solenoid. <S> They sell special thermostats for this application. <S> A "common" thermostat may or may not work, <S> depending on its ability to switch a very low voltage at comparatively high current, and function without 24v power. <S> Electronic thermostats cannot work, unless you supply 24v to them and supply a relay to switch the millivolt line... <S> but that makes the furnace dependent on AC power, which defeats the purpose of this type of furnace! <S> Yes, touch red and white together, and the unit should come on. <S> If it does not, first check that the pilot is on (no pilot, no millivolts). <S> Then check the 2 wires with a voltmeter, there should be some fraction of a volt of electricity. <S> If not, the pilot is out or you have a thermocouple problem. <S> Parts are readily available for Empire and Williams furnaces, and worse comes to worst <S> , you can replace one in-kind, though you'll have to special order it in the northeast or midwest. <S> For some reason, people in those areas have a revulsion to furnaces that work without electricity. <A> Your line of thinking is correct, in that a thermostat is simply a switch that connects two (or more) conductors together. <S> If the thermostat is wired following common patterns, then connecting the red and white wires together should tell the furnace to try and fire up. <S> If the unit works with the power off, then the control circuitry is likely powered by a thermopile. <S> If this is the case, then the pilot must be lit to power the control circuit. <A> This looks like an old post <S> but I’ll answer it anyway since it may help someone else. <S> You can check the pilot generator with a volt meter. <S> It should read at least 125 milivolts. <S> A 24 volt thermostat will work with a milivolt furnace. <S> 24 volt thermostats have what is called a heat anticipator, a small coil of wire with a metal tab over it. <S> Slide the tab all the way one way and try it if that doesn’t work go the other way. <S> If you are getting less than 125 milivolts at the pilot generator then replace the pilot generator. <S> If you are getting more than 125 volts at the thermostat wires and when you touch the wires together it still doesn’t come on it is either the gas valve or the thermostat wires. <S> At the gas valve jump the two terminals where the thermostat wires come in. <S> Still nothing it is the gas valve. <S> One note of caution, wall heaters can be very dangerous from a carbon monoxide standpoint. <S> Before using a wall furnace that has been sitting for a long time it would be best to have the gas company or someone that knows what they are doing to check the safety aspect of the wall furnace. <A> I had a simular problem with mine. <S> It was the solenoid valve in the regulator. <S> It was a Robert Shaw Regulator and they are pretty easy to find at a resonable price.
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Newer wall heaters have what is called 100% safety meaning if the pilot generator is bad or the pilot is not lit the gas to the pilot will shut off. It is easy if you have an ohm meter, connect one lead to r and the other to W. Move the little metal tab until you get as close to 0 ohms as you can. Older furnaces have what is referred to as a 90% safety meaning if the pilot blows out or the pilot generator goes bad gas will still flow through the pilot but not the gas valve.
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Radio Coming Through Speakers In Home I've lived in a mobile home for a long time that has bad wiring. Even the receptacles are mounted bad and I have to tape plugs to the wall for them to stay in. For years there never was a problem but the last year I have radio stations coming through the speakers I have my computer hooked up to. It's justspeakers, there's no receiver. It happens 24 hours a day and its annoying. I can't sit here in peace and quiet. I knocked the plug out of the wall the other day and told my landlord to fix the outlet. He hasn't yet, but can the receptacles or wiring have something to do with the radio coming through? <Q> I take it these are powered speakers plugged into the computer? <S> They usually have very cheap, poorly-shielded little amplifiers in them which are good at demodulating radio and playing it out the speaker. <S> A mobile phone call nearby will typically also cause a bunch of beeping and "dirtdirtdirt" noises. <S> If your computer has a three-pin plug but is plugged into an ungrounded outlet or the ground is faulty on that outlet, that is a safety issue and may also contribute to the noise. <S> If you've got some $2 earbuds, plug those into the PC and see if you get radio noise. <S> If the earbuds are quiet and produce the PC sounds properly, then you know the problem is probably with the powered speakers. <S> If the earbuds also play radio, then the fault is either in the computer or its grounding. <A> It probably is not the landlord's fault. <S> If you are dealing with very strong local radio signals, all you can do is sell or throw away any electronics that are manufactured in unshielded plastic boxes, and only buy high quality electronics in shielded metal boxes from stores where you can easily return items that fail in your environment -- and even then, you may need to take extra steps such as applying ferrite RFI suppression chokes to all input and output wires. <S> (If you are wondering if you can sue the radio station or ask them to replace your devices, you can't. <S> They have a license to cause this kind of problem, and at least in the USA, the FCC has decided that RFI is typically the product manufacturer's fault and not the radio station's fault). <S> What you have is a very strong radio signal around devices that aren't designed to reject it. <S> This problem is called Radio Frequency Interference . <S> In the early days of AM radio, people made crystal radios that did not need electricity at all -- consisting of a tuned filter and a non-linear junction supplied by a crystal or, in modern children's kits, a modern diode -- the result was a signal strong enough to hear in sensitive headphones. <S> If the signal is strong enough, you don't need the tuned filter, and such signals may similarly be received unintentionally by cheap unshielded modern electronics. <S> Ideally computer speakers should be in metal boxes instead of plastic boxes. <S> The metal box acts as a Faraday cage to shield the audio amplifier from undesired radio signals that might otherwise be received by the amplifier circuit. <A> Chances are the power supply of your PC or some other component is sensitive to radio interference. <S> It could also be the speakers themselves. <S> It may not be the fault of your property owner (unless the outlets are ungrounded). <S> Try plugging your speakers into another source, such as a phone or MP3 player.
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You can put rfi suppression ferrite beads on all input and output leads to the speakers to block the radio signal from travelling down the speaker or power wires, but if the speakers are in plastic boxes that may not help and buying a better model may be more time and cost effective.
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How do I provide heating to a room without existing plumbing? I have a house in the Republic of Ireland which has 2 rooms without heating. One is a Kitchen and the other is planned to be a 'breakfast' room. (all rooms are approx 5m x 3m) As can be (hopefully) deciphered from the sketch, there is a radiator on the other side of the concrete floored hallway, a fireplace in the breakfast room, and the main house boiler on an adjoining wall. The Kitchen floors are tiled and I would prefer not to remove/damage them so am trying to figure out how best to heat the rooms. (Please do ask in comments if you need more/better detail on anything. I'm trying to keep the question concise) <Q> Just go up. <S> The 2 ceilings get a moderate slit for a lot of drilling & short sections of piping with a wall & ceiling corner chunk-out to drop down for the new rads. <S> Tedious, but gets it done & the ceilings are the easiest to repair compared to everything else. <A> If you prefer a fast and simple solution to heat the rooms I would suggest electric baseboards as a heating source. <S> They install along most any approved wall and are available in different voltage. <S> All that is needed is a electric source to tap into. <A> Use plug-in oscillating ceramic element space heaters with electronic thermostat control, you just leave them on with the temperature set. <S> Quiet, efficient, effective, and not hot to the touch. <S> No invasive plumbing or wiring. <S> We use one in the guest house main room (400 sq/ft) <S> and it's nice and toasty all winter. <A> Maybe you can remove the skirting from the wall to the right of the hallway, chase pipes into the wall from existing radiator up to intersection with breakfast-room and kitchen and have radiators on the other side of the walls left and right of that intersection. <S> You can buy skirting boards / capping designed to cover pipes fixed to the wall.
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That piping would be parallel to the joists & you'd just need a chunk-out at the bearing wall & above the existing rad. And, if the current piping is old then tie in the existing rad to avoid any near-future failures.
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Can I setup insulation without tearing down walls? My situation is this: I moved into a new apartment last year and my office is the only room that isn't insulated, which is annoying. My daughter's room and her playroom are both insulated as expected. My office door has to be closed when I'm not in there. Currently, I am using a meager space heater, but I feel like things can be better. Are there insulation boards I can nail to the walls and ceiling? Or should I try and get my landlord to do it? <Q> The technique is to drill a series of holes at the top of the wall. <S> They next use a commercial 'blower' that forces insulation into the walls bay. <S> It is a very non-invasive form of insulating because (as you asked) it doesn't necessitate the demolition of existing walls. <S> It is also well with-in a competent DIY-ers capabilities and machines can be rented at most home centers. <A> Read your Lease & definitely run everything past your Landlord. <S> But, you'll have to remove & dispose of everything & patch, prime & paint many holes, unless you want to build a tight fitting box frame. <S> I'd suggest Rigid Foam Boards, 2-layers of 2" thick ones from Lowe's, Home Depot or another Lumber type place. <S> The other option is to get a quote for the Landlord on doing insulation injection. <S> Much more expensive, but you just enjoy & leave with nothing to tidy up. <A> I have an old house with the same problem and <S> cavity wall insulation is not an option for me as the cavities apparently contain debris. <S> Filling the cavity while debris is present can cause damp/ventilation problems later. <S> I was advised this by a specialist cavity wall firm. <S> I was told to consider insulation boards on the inside walls, however this will reduce room size slightly.
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Please seek a specialists advice on insulating the cavity. They drill 2" holes in the walls & blow in the insulation. If they're decent or Lease Obligated for improvements they'll likely pay for the materials. This is done all the time by insulation contractors.
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GFCI and Refrigerator and Circuit Breaker We have a new home and a new refrigerator. The refrigerator is plugged into a standard outlet and on the same circuit is one GFCI. While using a hand mixer on the GFCI outlet the circuit breaker - not the GFCI - tripped twice and that, of course left us with no power to the refrigerator - until we reset the breaker. We figured the mixer was the problem although we didn't understand why the circuit breaker tripped and not the GFCI. We just aren't comfortable with a situation where we could leave for a few days and come back to a dead refrigerator. Question one is, in new construction these days is the general practice of providing a refrigerator its own circuit no longer an issue? Question two is if the mixer was the problem why wouldn't it trip the GFCI before tripping the circuit breaker? <Q> A refrigerator does not have to be on a dedicated circuit, it's simply a convention some builders/Electricians follow. <S> A ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) trips in response to a ground-fault. <S> While a standard circuit breaker trips in response to overloads, and overcurrents. <S> If the combined current drawn of the refrigerator, mixer, and whatever else was connected, is greater than the breaker rating (for long enough). <S> Then the breaker would trip, but the GFCI would not. <S> If there was a ground-fault. <S> The GFCI would trip, but not the breaker. <S> They are two different types of devices, designed to provide different types of protection. <A> Refrigeration equipment may be served from another circuit aside from the kitchen circuits but it is not required. <S> 210.52(B) <S> Small Appliances. <S> (1) Receptacle Outlets Served. <S> In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all counter-top outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment. <S> Exception <S> No. <S> 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by 210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, shall be permitted. <S> Exception <S> No. 2: <S> The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater. <S> As to why it is tripping the breaker, I think you apparently have too much on one circuit and the addition of the mixer put it over the top. <S> You may have had the microwave or another appliance running with the fridge and mixer. <S> Moving the fridge to its own circuit would make good sense in this case. <A> A refrigerator and hand mixer could easily draw 15 amps that would trip a 15 amp bkr, the GFCI is only looking for ground faults. <S> The model of both appliances would allow us to look up the power they draw. <S> Kitchen circuits in newer houses are supposed to have a minimum of 2 circuits to service the countertop area. <A> I'll add one last thing.. as it seems to be your worry. <S> Your breaker will not trip while you're gone from the house as long as those other loads are not turned on. <S> If you're not home, then I'm guessing that the hand mixer won't be on and so the breaker won't trip. <S> Figured it was at least worth mentioning. <S> It's typical to give a refrigerator <S> it's own dedicated circuit nowadays <S> and I'd still recommend you doing it as well to end your problems.
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Your refrigerator should be on its own circuit. A GFCI trips if current is diverted outside the normal circuit path and the breaker trips if the normal circuit is overloaded.
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How does fresh air get inside a house with central heating other than through cracks of door or window on a cold winter day I'm not sure how fresh air, or oxygen, gets inside my house other than through cracks of window or door on a cold winter day when the central heating system is on. I have a pipe that is coming from outside in my basement and delivers air to my basement (there is no fan in it or anything just a pipe by itself). And I think that is meant for providing fresh oxygen for the gas furnace to burn. However, since it is not directly connected to the furnace air intake vent ( a white J-shaped pipe), there will be some outside fresh air delivered to my basement, but in no way is that an effective way of delivering fresh air to the whole house. So I'm asking this question because sometimes I feel suffocated even when the central fan is on in my house, and I have already positioned myself to be near the vents to make sure there are air flowing around my head. I can't really open the window because my window is facing a neighbor who constantly burns his wood in his old fashioned furnace when produces black smoke that blows towards my window. Our basement outside air intake place is somewhat more discrete, though. Which is why I'm not smelling smoke when all windows are closed. So I'm asking, is there no other way of getting fresh air inside my fresh air, by using the furnace? Or is an average house supposed to be have fresh air intake systems? I'm in no way an HVAC expert, I might be making wrong presumptions in my question, but any help would be appreciated :) <Q> It depends on the home, and the system. <S> Neither of which you've provided much information. <S> Modern homes tend to be sealed up much tighter, and often require air intakes. <S> Sometimes systems are installed in a utility closet, or other space where makeup air can't be drawn from surrounding areas in the home. <S> In these cases, an air intake will also be used. <S> Some modern furnaces actually draw air from outside, directly into the unit. <S> This reduces the amount of cold dry air that is pulled into the home. <S> If you're simply concerned about the quality of the air entering the home, it's possible that you could install a filter on the intake. <S> Though you'll have to make sure you don't restrict the amount of air being drawn in. <S> If you don't have carbon monoxide detectors in the home, you'll want to install some. <A> Old houses leak like crazy and that, alone was typically more than enough to provide both fresh air and combustion air. <S> On new construction, an air exchange handler is the typical way to provide fresh air. <A> From your comments, I don't believe your question is out of concern for your heater, but for yourself. <S> But, to be sure, if your heater is less that about 20 years old, it probably has its own dedicated intake from outside the house for combustion. <S> If it is older, it may draw on air from onside the house. <S> Either way, by design, combustion air is never mixed with the air you breathe, for obvious reasons. <S> I'm not aware of any great way to fix this, since getting that "fresh" outside air into your house means significant loss of the warm or cool air and the energy dollars you spend to get it that way. <S> I have read about small heat exchanger systems that help offset that loss, but I believe their effect is minimal. <S> In my home, we simply open up the house about once a week and let new air come in. <S> We figure the cost will be offset by fewer doctor visits and less pain and suffering from sickness. <S> ope that helps! <A> The Building Code requires, in most commercial buildings, to have outside air mixed with return air from the building spaces. <S> (Some exceptions exist for buildings with operable windows.) <S> For residential buildings, operable windows are "designed" into the building, (I.e.: required egress windows in bedrooms, etc.) <S> In addition, fresh air is brought into the house by infiltration, (leaks around windows and doors,) and by traffic, (people coming and going) in and out of the house.
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Older homes are usually drafty enough to provide adequate combustion air, so dedicated intake are not required. That said, in most houses the air you breathe is only renewed by leakage and opening and closing of doors, so the tighter your house (read: newer your house), the less outside air will get inside.
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Burning smell in my clothes dryer There is a burning smell inside my clothes dryer after it runs. Does anyone know what that could be? There is no smoke (thankfully) but it definitely has a mild to medium smell or something burning. I think its a gas powered dryer (its hard to get to the back too look) but the smell is closer to burning lint than to gas. My first response was to clean out the area under the lint collection basket. We clean the collection basket before each use but the area under that had collected a fair amount of lint and so I cleaned it after we first smelled the smoke. I also checked the exhaust hose that connects to the wall but there was no lint in there. I then ran the dryer again after this cleaning and it still smells of smoke. Is there another place to clean? Do I just have to let it run some to let it air out? Or, is there something else I should do? I am fairly handy myself but don't have any experience with troubleshooting dryers. Is this something I could probably remedy myself or is it something more serious that requires me to call a repair person? <Q> I had this issue with my electric GE dryer. <S> The plate on the inside had trapped lint that was turning brown and causing the burning smell which smelled like sulfur or burning rubber depending who you talked to. <S> It required unscrewing 3 torx bolts and removing the back plate on the inside of the dryer. <S> I then cleaned out the lint with a vacuum and some wet wipes. <S> I laid the dryer on it's back and put the 3 screws in and voila! <S> Done. <S> 5 minutes of work no more burning smell. <S> I hope that this helps someone. <A> If it smells like burning lint, it's probably burning lint. <S> I'd remove the case and vacuum and or blow out the lint that has collected there. <S> This would also be a perfect time to give your dryer vent a good cleaning. <S> If it's clogged or severely constricted, this can also cause lint to back up into the dryer chassis. <S> Either of these situations can be a pretty serious fire hazard, and given that you're already smelling burning, I wouldn't use the dryer until you've done both of these. <A> There is a burning smell inside my clothes dryer after it runs. <S> Does anyone know what that could be? <S> Yes. <S> Burning smells are a common indicator that something is burning. <S> So something is burning. <S> There is no smoke (thankfully) <S> but it definitely has a mild to medium smell or something burning. <S> I think its a gas powered dryer (its hard to get to the back too look) but the smell is closer to burning lint than to gas. <S> Getting to the back to look is going to be easier for you than anyone on the internet. <S> Use a chair to stand on and take a peek. <S> Bring a flashlight with you in case there is not ambient light behind the dryer. <S> Do not drop the flashlight behind the dryer, or fall off the chair. <S> You could also try shutting off the gas to your house and see if the dryer still works. <S> Do I just have to let it run some to let it air out? <S> Or, is there something else I should do? <S> Configure its controls NOT to provide heat, and then run it for a few hours with heat off, in an attempt to move enough air through it to clear smells. <S> Have a fire extinguisher ready. <S> I am fairly handy myself but don't have any experience with troubleshooting dryers. <S> Is this something I could probably remedy myself or is it something more serious that requires me to call a repair person? <S> Use visual sensing to identify the area or areas that are chared, and replace them with OEM parts from the manufacturer.
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If the seals are worn around the lint trap (as evidenced by the amount collected underneath), the interior of the dryer can accumulate lint really fast. Other manufacturers require taking apart the back to access the lint behind the plate. Open the dryer up (remove the outer casing and look inside).
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Why are lights on 15 amp circuits and receptacles on 20 amp? I'm wondering about the logic behind 15 amp vs 20 amp. Why isn't everything 20 amp if it is considered safe? If a light circuit shorts, what difference does it make it if trips at 15amp vs 20 amp? <Q> Breakers protect wiring and connections. <S> Most lighting circuits are done with #14 wire, which is adequate for the duty it performs. <S> Many power tools, appliances, and other devices draw at or above 15A at startup or under load. <S> It's often desirable to have more current capacity there than you'd need in a lighting circuit. <S> Simply put, each circuit has a different purpose. <S> It's not just about short circuit protection, but available current load. <A> It matters if there's mere overload but less than a short. <S> 14 gauge wire cannot carry 20A safely. <S> So why use 14 gauge? <S> The answer is you are corralled into it by market forces: it makes for easier, faster, cheaper work. <S> Here are the factors that come into that. <S> Stranded vs Solid-core. <S> Stranded wire bends much easier, but costs 5-10% more. <S> Solid-core is stiffer, and 12 gauge can be a real wrestling match in a small junction box. <S> Sheathing/grouping. <S> Wire must be grouped and protected. <S> Conduit is very hard to install, but easily expanded later by pulling more single wires. <S> Non-Metallic NM (aka Romex) is 3-5 wires permanently bundled together. <S> Wire size , typically 14 or 12 gauge, determines ampacity. <S> In solid wire, heavier wire is obviously stiffer. <S> And more costly - 12 gauge NM is 50% more -- however for conduit, 12 gauge THHN is only 20% more (go figure). <S> NM only comes in solid-core, so being multiple conductors, gets quite stiff - even moreso with 12 gauge. <S> Connection to devices can be either screw terminals or "back-stabs". <S> Screw terminals are considered more reliable but a lot slower work, and are easiest with solid-core wire. <S> In back-stabs, you jab a short length of stripped wire into a hole rated only for certain sizes of wire, typically 14ga only and solid-core only. <S> Purpose decides wire gauge too. <S> For residential lighting circuits, 14 gauge is sufficient, especially with the new, efficient lighting. <S> So now we can talk about the business side. <S> In residential work, NM is much faster (cheaper) than conduit. <S> That necessitates solid wire, where 12 gauge is heavy and stiff to wrestle into junction boxes. <S> 14 gauge is cheaper than 12, and it works with backstabs instead of laboriously twisting a U-hook for screw terminals, which adds up to fewer billed hours and more profit on the house. <S> And that's what it's all about. <S> Houses sell on five things: Location, location, location, features and price. <S> 12ga, screw terminals and conduit are nice, but cost money and add no sellable features and thus no retail value to the house. <S> So your builder wouldn't do it unless you were locked in, and your lender wouldn't lend on the additional cost. <S> So that's why 14 gauge, and thus, 15 amps. <A> It is not too complicated. <S> Breakers are generally designed to protect the wiring, not the appliance or light. <S> Lighting circuits, nonlinear loads, and non-inductive motor loads generally have a higher total wattage consumption on average than inductive motor loads. <S> Inductive motor loads have startup and stop/fault loads. <S> These can peak up to 6x or more than the normal current load of the motor. <S> But again, breakers are generally designed to protect the wiring.
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20A circuits are typically wired with #12 AWG wire to handle the additional current safely. Lighter wire and other components are less expensive and easier to work with. To prevent overheating (fire risk), 15A breakers are required by code for most circuits using #14 AWG wire.
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Range plug prongs are slightly exposed - Is that dangerous? I just had a new range installed in the kitchen. The cord's prongs do not quite go in all the way. There's not a lot of space, maybe 1/8th to 1/4th inch. Is there any risk to the prongs not going completely into the socket? Thanks. <Q> Theoretically, yes, a risk exists -- if you drop a knife or baking tray into that area, for example. <S> And frankly, if the plug won't go all the way in I'm worried about whether something else is goung on that might be a greater risk. <S> It won't kill you tomorrow. <S> I'd still suggest getting it fixed. <A> If it's a surface receptacle it will look like the image under the cover. <S> It is entirely possible to cut the hot conductors too long so that they wind up under the receptacle prongs. <S> If that is the case it will create the exact problem you are describing. <S> If the receptacle installation is new I'd simply ask the installer to come back and trim the wire back a bit to alleviate the problem. <A> Push harder. <S> There's no reason it won't go. <S> I had a similar situation once, and when the range was slid into position the bottom bracket of the chassis slid into the gap and made contact with a hot prong . <S> Imagine my surprise when I grabbed the oven door later and got a nice 60hz zing. <S> I was so shocked (to turn a phrase) <S> that I did it again to make sure I wasn't imagining it. <S> So <S> , yeah. <S> That happened to me. <S> Find out what the problem is and fix it. <A> Is it dangerous? <S> Yes. <S> A range is normally 220 to 240 volts -- you'd get a nasty shock. <S> I've had plenty of times that I've dropped something behind cabinets and went feeling for it, so the idea that months or years from now you might forget all about this and go reaching back there is not implausible. <S> I'd be particularly worried about a pet or a small child. <S> Not only would they have no idea that this plug is dangerous, but they're smaller and more vulnerable. <S> It won't hurt you if you don't touch it (with your hands or an object), so <S> it's not a cause for panic <S> -- I'm not saying you should evacuate the house and call 911 to send a hazmat team. <S> But yeah, I would definitely get this fixed. <S> Before spending a bunch of money, if you're comfortable with doing simple electrical work, step 1 would be: (a) Turn off the electricity to the range from the fuse box. <S> (b) Try to simply push it in further. <S> If it goes in, hooray. <S> If not, and you're comfortable doing it, you can remove the plug, unscrew the fixture, and see why it won't go in. <S> Likely something is blocking it. <S> Call an electrician.
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Probably not enough to do serious damage, but I wouldn't want to try it to find out, and if someone had a weak heart, it could be literally fatal. If you have not done your own electrical work before, a 220 line is not where you want to start. One day you might reach behind the range for some reason and accidentally touch two prongs.
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Do I need to tape a drywall plug? My understanding is that drywall tape is to provide structure to the mud as the framing members shift . In my case, I've cut about 17 5" holes in my garage drywall ceiling and saved the plugs. I plan to plug the holes as pictured below (side view). There's a gap between the existing drywall and the plug. Do I need to tape it? As the house shifts, the plug should shift with the drywall sheet since it's attached to it with the short lath strip. Since the plug is circular, it seems like I'd need to use something like these (not cheap) instead of regular tape. Aesthetics aren't a big concern since this is a garage. <Q> Probably. <S> But that depends on: <S> How well you replace the plugs. <S> If you don't center them perfectly, leaving uniform gaps, the joint compound has nowhere to go in the tight spots and you're left with a paper-thin skin on the surface that's sure to crack. <S> How well you press mud into the gap. <S> Same reason. <S> Your climate. <S> Extremes of temperature and humidity will probably crack untaped joints. <S> How you use the lath. <S> If you use just one the plugs can move more and will probably crack. <S> If you use two, well spaced, and 8 screws, probably not. <S> What I'd do: <S> Since it's only 17 plugs, run a strip of tape down one side, and a strip down the other, covering as much joint as possible with the two. <S> The remaining untaped joint segments will be short enough that they're not likely to crack. <S> This will take very little time. <S> A 12" or larger knife will allow you to make a nice wide second coat over everything and end up with a finish that will require very little sanding. <A> I'd say yes, you need tape. <S> I like the fiberglass mesh tape. <S> It also self-sticking. <A> Screw your backing plate to the inside wall (3/4 inch plywood strips won't splinter when screws grab into it). <S> Slather the edges of the plug with joint compound and push into place and secure with screws. <S> Apply more compound over the plugged surface. <S> Cover seams with tape and press into place to force out excess compound. <S> Using a wider blade apply a second wider coat of compound so that it covers the plug <S> and it's seams. <S> You want to leave just enough to cover the repair from view. <S> Let it dry until solid (white color), knock down any burrs or trowel ridges and apply a third 6-8 inch wide application of compound. <S> This should be enough to hide the repair and tape from being noticed and there should be very little need for sanding. <S> If sanding is needed use a 150-220 grit for a smooth finish. <A> If you wish to do what the building code requires, it must be taped in a garage.
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I think the question you're asking is whether the joint compound will crack around the plugs if you don't tape the joint. I put strips of it over the joints before putting on any mud. On top of that, I would tape anything that has an actual gap or drilled holes. Paper tape is a good old reliable material to use, but I prefer fiberglass tape, it is thinner, does not need a bed coat and holds itself on walls and ceilings without that bed coat.
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What to do when snow blocks house door? My house's door open outwards and overnight the snow has accumulated outside (to half the door height) and prevented the door from being opened. What to do in this situation if we want to open the door and go outside? <Q> If all your doors are blocked go out a window and do the same. <S> If it's a screen door, remove the screen and reach through the opening to move the snow. <S> You can use a broom or even a pot or baking pan if your don't have a shovel within reach. <A> Here are some options: <S> Use another door <S> Go out a window <S> so you can dig out the door <S> Call someone who can come over and dig you out Hole up and wait for the snow to melt. <A> In most cases, snow is not a solid substance. <S> It is powder <S> so it has a bit of movement. <S> What you have to do it push the door a little bit open, and close it repeatably. <S> From this you will hopefully be able to get your hand out the door to clear more snow. <S> From that you can then open it even more. <S> Repeat this process until you can fit a shovel out to clear the door. <S> In the future it would be better to open the door every few hours so that the buildup of snow is less at each time and only swinging it allows it to open. <S> An alternate option is to open your garage door as it is vertical and will not be blocked by the snow. <A> I doubt the snow is so compacted that you cannot open the door at all. <S> You don't have a huge ice-cube out of your door. <S> So, just open the door as much as you can and dig your path clean. <A> I have a glass storm door. <S> The glass insert has screws on the inside. <S> I'm going to take out the screws, remove the insert and hopefully get outside.
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Go out a door that's not blocked and walk to the blocked one to clear the snow.
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Eliminating ticking noise of pipe in wall I know that the ABS main stack in my home is not rubbing against the floor or attic plywood openings; it is rubbing against the drywall in a interior wall when the pipe expands with the use of hot water. The pipe is 3.5" in diameter and the wall is studded out with 2x4's, so the stud bay is 3.5" as well. With such little room to add felt, I was hoping a product existed that was thinner but would still eliminate the ticking noise. Does any sheet-like product for this application exist? I was expecting to find some sort of two-piece sheet system that would allow the sliding to occur between the sheets but I have had no luck in finding such an item on the interwebs. <Q> Cut out the 1/2" drywall in the affected area & hot-patch in 1/4" drywall. <S> But yes, even a slight temperature increase will expand plastic plumbing. <A> such as http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FPD674/ Or the as a tape, though the tapes are less wear resistant than the sheet/plates http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004V41BPE/ <A> If it wasn't built in the last couple of years 2 X 4 studs were actually 3 5/8" wide leaving you just enough space that it shouldn't tick. <S> I've only seen this happen on hot water lines where the hole through the floor plates were really tight, never on abs stacks. <S> For the record cast Iron had big hubs for the joints and ween't used when I got in the trades in 72 not worth talking about. <S> I would be thinking hard about how your hot waterline goes
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Attach teflon sheets/strips to the drywall to allow the the pipe to easily slide around without noise. A gap won't wear out over time, but any & all padding, greasing or spraying will. How hot would a 3" abs stack have to get to make sqeaking or ticking sounds in the drywall cavity.
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Mount ceiling fan to joist on sloped ceiling I need to mount a ceiling fan to a ceiling joist in a sloped ceiling. I recently installed an electrical box onto the joist for this. The problem I have now is that the ceiling fan bracket is intended to be bolted left-to-right whereas the mounting holes on my electrical box are top-to-bottom along the joist. If I mount the fan bracket vertically, the little key, which needs to be at the bottom of the bracket, is on the left side (see pic below). I don't think that mounting the bracket sideways is an option given the way that the joist and box are oriented. So should I modify the bracket - by attempting to hacksaw off the key and JB weld it onto the bottom (best idea I can think of)? Any other ideas? Sloped ceiling Electrical box Hanging ball Mounting bracket with key on the left (normally on bottom). <Q> I would consider getting a metal plate adapter similar to this: You can mount this to the screw holes in the ceiling electrical box. <S> Then in turn you can mount the fan hanger bracket in the correct orientation. <S> As shown you can see there are plenty of options to adjust the positions of everything including the possibility to install captive bolts and nuts to which you could attach the fan bracket. <S> Edit:There are various places to acquire plates like this. <S> Google search for "ceiling fixture adapter plate" and you may locate a source such as here: https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-supply/Metallic-Box-Accessories-Mounting-Brackets-Universal/Dottie/SP34/product.aspx?zpid=674218 <A> You are going to be mounting the hanging ball 90 degrees from its intended orientation. <S> As long as the bracket would not allow the hanging ball to come out, I think your idea to cut off <S> the key is good. <S> I guess that key is just to keep the ball from rotating when the fan is turned on? <S> I installed one recently that didn't have a key like that. <S> Another option if you're worried about it is to buy a different hanging bracket. <S> This one http://www.build.com/fanimation-sck52-lq/s1005797?uid=2488393 would match you bracket orientation. <A> I'd consider modifying the mounting bracket to be dangerous. <S> The key is there for a reason - it counters the torque of the fan spinning when the motor is turned on and keeps it from twisting in the hanger. <S> There are several styles of down rod attachments that are adjustable (or are designed to side load on a sloped ceiling). <S> Shouldn't be that hard to find one that works.
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There's nothing wrong with mounting the bracket sideways at all - the issue is that the downrod ball you have isn't adjustable in that dimension.
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Using leveling compound on plywood subfloor (second story) I am doing an installation of 1/2" engineered hardwood on the second story of my home.Checking the plywood subfloor for true and level, I found a pretty big dip (1/2") Is this scenario an appropriate use of self-leveling compound? If so do I need to tape the seam so it doesn't leak through or is viscous enough and doesn't matter. Could this be made level with stacked pieces of 15# felt or is this not appropriate? I read that online, but am not sure if I want to trust it. <Q> I HATE, quote, "self leveling" compound. <S> It should called: aww crap, now what? <S> (you had better know how to trowel concrete) <S> And if you're going to use nails instead of glue, then leveling compound is out of the question. <S> It will crack when you shoot nails into it and the flooring won't sit right on all the crumbs. <S> I'd either floor right over that, or lay down a new 3/8 plywood sub-floor over the whole thing (with none of the old seams lining up, and nowhere shall four corners meet; T junctions only). <S> I would not use felt <S> and I wouldn't worry about having to tape that seam if you're going to use leveling compound. <S> But you could try using strips of luan (1/8" plywood), cut to fit that gap as large as possible, so long as they're still underneath your level (a high spot would be worse IMO). <S> I've never glued a hardwood floor down, but if you're going to, then this probably would be an appropriate use of self-leveling compound. <S> However I recommend neither process. <A> Your leveling doesn't have to be perfect but I would fix the dip. <S> This is very very easy. <S> Self-leveling compound cannot seep through the plywood unless you put way way too much on. <S> If you are truly worried about that you can use something like redgard <S> but I think that is total overkill. <S> (Felt would be used to ramp up to an area but not flexible enough to handle this kind of issue) <S> And a note about your baseboards. <S> Awesome that you took them out already. <S> However I noticed that you haven't scored the bottoms. <S> I suggest if your walls are drywall that you score the bottom inch so that this can serve as the expansion gap. <S> Therefore no need for quarter round. <S> And another note: If you replywood it is quite likely you will end up with the same issue and that could take a lot of time and money. <S> If you do nothing you will spend tons of money on new floor and tons of time following install instructions - and at the very best you will have a very spongy section of floor and at worst a part of the floor that will eventually fail or crack. <S> Buy some primer and leveler - spend $20 and 20 minutes and do it right. <S> When your floor feels flat 6 months from now <S> you won't care at all about the extra step. <A> I've tried self leveling compound once, and it broke into pieces with each nail. <S> The crumbs don't move much, at first, but with movement of the new flooring (slight, over time) <S> I"m doubtful that it'd work well over the long term. <S> I took it up (small area/dip). <S> I've since used 15 or even 30 lbs felt, which was used long ago under hardwood floors to minimize squeaks against the subflooring. <S> The felt itself is already compressed, but the layers can compress a very small amount. <S> Given the strength of wood flooring, a little dip the depth of a few sheets of paper, won't affect anything or show. <S> So I suggest layers of felt. <S> Placing some very small brad nails (with flat heads) here or there on the felt holds them in place from wandering or shifting over time, just 3 or 4. <A> Agree that the term self levelling is a bit of an oxymoron. <S> Sure it self levels within itself, but it doesn't know the level of the surrounding areas! <S> Confirm also that level is irrelevant, flatness is all. <S> Also agree that if the long joints are crossing this dip at 90 degrees <S> it's less important <S> Dips up to 1/4 inch (across the long joints) are generally not noticeable. <S> Sometimes I've doubled up the underlay or packed using flooring grade cardboard on marginal areas. <S> Dips that run with the long edges can be more noticeable and problematical and should be avoided. <S> If you go for the S.L.C you'll need to ensure you get a flexible one and be prepared to 'help' it along with a trowel to ensure it ends up where you need it. <S> You can even drag a straight edge over it quickly, it will 'repair' itself <S> and then you know it's not going to end up proud (big headache). <S> Otherwise I've seen this kind of thing done many times with thick cardboard underlay in widening layers, 2" wide strip, 4", 6", 8" and so on, which feathers out nicely. <S> Even done it in circles to correct a dip in a conc. <S> floor in the sticks on a short notice/time sensitive job for another contractor. <A> Go get a bundle of cedar shakes. <S> Rip them down to 3" shims. <S> Then shim the new flooring up to meet a flat spanner that rests on another piece of flooring on the other side of the dip. <S> (tacking this row down with a couple finish nails will give you better results) <S> Spacing as you normally would. <S> Then cut the shims, and repeat until you clear the dip. <S> And make sure to use 2" staples/nails.
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That looks like an almost non-issue (especially if the flooring will run the same direction as that level, if not you'll need to do something about it). I cut pieces for dips, small, than ever larger, checking each layer or two with my level, and judging that there'd be a leetle compression of the felt so I layered it up just a tad over, but very, very little. Also levelness does not matter, it is flatness that matters. This is the exact sort of thing that you should use self leveling compound for. I know it's a lot of shimming. If it's a low traffic area it might not concern me in the slightest. A quick prime and then a self-leveler the next day (literally 15-20 mins of total work). There is a special 'file' to remove any high spots afterwards if absolutely necessary. (I'd still pack this one though). Then shim, and nail through them.
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2 layers of plastic film window insulation? I am insulating a single-pane window with plastic film ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2GW?keywords=plastic film insulation&qid=1453679450 ). This window can't be opened, so I will keep the plastic even in summertime. This also implies that there are no drafts through this window. Is it worth to add more layers, separated by ~1 inch? Is it worth the money? Is it worth the effort? My guess is yes (slightly). This may create a barrier of still air that will get a bit warmer by the sunlight (although it is not facing south). More convincing arguments? <Q> First, 1 inch is more than is generally considered ideal - 1/2" or so is preferred as it's less prone to internal convection currents. <S> Any multi-pane system comes with a very basic tradeoff - more panes, less light. <S> Neither glass nor plastic lets all light through, and multiple panes/layers have a multiplicative impact on the light transmission - if a single pane lets through 90 % of the light, two let through only 81% and 3 let through only 73%... <S> The additional layers do provide improved insulation value over a single pane, though even a triple-pane system is still a poorly insulated area compared to the rest of the wall (if the rest of the wall is properly insulated, anyway.) <S> I suspect hard data on the effectiveness of plastic film layers would be difficult to source (though I could be wrong, I don't feel like looking for it right now based on that suspicion) <S> but you'd probably see far more difference from REPLACING the old single pane window with a modern, low-E double-pane unit than from covering it with 2 additional layers of plastic film - but the cost would also be higher. <A> I'll give another answer from my own experience.. <S> I have an unfinished basement with two old single pane windows. <S> They simply had a curtain over them, but were still losing a lot of heat. <S> I saw this idea online <S> and it seems to work great for us and provides an easy and cheap secondary layer. <S> Good luck. <A> A single pane window has a R-value of about 0.91 (mostly due to the interior and exterior boundary air layers, not the actual glass, which is an almost useless thermal insulator). <S> A double pane low-E window has an R-value of about 3.1. <S> So adding two layers of window film (with a minimum ½" air space) to a single pane glass window will result in an R value of about 2.91, almost equivalent to the low-E double pane, but at MUCH, MUCH less cost. <A> If your window structure allows, you might also consider making an "interior window insulating panel". <S> Essentially an interior "storm" window that can be installed and removed as needed. <S> This site has all the details: http://www.arttec.net/Thermal-Windows/ <S> I went this route for one window in my house where the plastic just didn't want to stick to the frame. <S> but if all goes according to plan it should be worth it. <A> I put mirror mylar on my single pane windows and it made a HUGE difference. <S> It has lasted over 20 years. <S> I also put it on my double-pane patio doors and it makes a huge difference there as well. <S> Much less expensive and more efficient at heat reduction. <A> Here is an idea for you. <S> Build a wood rectangle out of 1 x 1/2 inch wood that just fits into the window frame with a 3/16 inch under size. <S> Cover this on both sides with plastic sheet. <S> Put a 1/8 inch foam strip around the outside and put two screws in on one side for hand holds. <S> You place this into the window, compress the foam on one side using the screw holds, slide the screw side in and then let the compression of the foam hold it in place. <S> Position an inch away from the pane to achieve for best insulation. <S> An even simpler version of this is to install 3/4" spring curtain rods at the top and bottom of the window and run a loop of plastic sheet around them abut an inch wider than the window frame. <S> Some windows have channels for fitting exterior screens, these can also be used to install exterior panes. <S> In one case I just covered the exterior window screen with plastic
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Yes, plastic window film kits are often installed with considerably larger spacing, but they are also commonly installed on less than ideal windows where they stop actual drafts... Each ½" layer of air space you create (with plastic film or glass or plexiglass) adds an additional R=1.0. We did 2 layers with the first layer underneath being bubble wrap. There are, as always, tradeoffs. It's a little more cost & effort up-front
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Do drain pipes (house to sewer) freeze? My basement drain is backing up a bit recently. Before I call a plumber, or rent an electric sewer snake from Home Depot, can sewer pipes freeze? It is January after all (and my house is in Canada). <Q> Drain pipes are generally run below the "frost line" for the region, and should never freeze in anthing resembling a normal winter. <A> Yes they can, especially in exposed areas. <S> You could always pour some boiling water down the drain to see if it would help. <A> Fat and grease is another common enemy for drains. <S> It might be hot/semi liquid when it goes into the drain but once it hits the colder sections outside it quickly cools and solidifies. <S> This is sticky stuff and attracts debris, building up over time. <S> Google (images) 'fat berg' if you totally want to be grossed out! <S> It seems to be a fact of utility life that people have forgotten what drains are and how they should be treated. <S> Young people especially treat the toilet like a dustbin in my experience.
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I've heard of sewage pipes freezing in the winter and backing up into apartments in NYC, with disastrous consequences, though the more likely culprit is something that was poured down the drain.
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How high to raise water heater above floor? I saw a water heater stand at Home Depot but it's about 15" high. That's a bit too high for my basement. Can I just make one with 2x4 and plywood that's only 4" tall, basically just enough to be able to drain water off the drain tray? Or does the code require it be higher? <Q> Regardless of code, I like to get them off the floor just in case the basement floods. <S> My preferred (and easily available anywhere) solution is a few solid concrete blocks; one under each foot. <S> You can stack them if you want, too. <S> This is an easy way to increase the height in 4" increments. <S> I don't suggest using lumber. <S> If your floor is the least bit hygroscopic, it will rot from the underneath even if the tank never leaks. <S> 16" x 8" <S> x 4" Solid Concrete Block: <S> ( source ) <A> Check the manufacturer's installation instructions for the heater. <S> As far as I'm aware, a gas appliance only has to be raised off the floor if there's a possibility of flammable vapors being near it (e.g. in a garage). <S> IRC P2801.6 Water heaters installed in garages. <S> Water heaters having an ignition source shall be elevated such that the source of ignition is not less than 18 inches (457 mm) above the garage floor. <S> Plumbing code requires ¼" per foot slope in drain pipes that are 2 ½" or less in diameter. <S> So as long as the drain maintains that slope, the heater can be as low as you want. <A> Water heaters only need to be raised (per code) if they are using an ignitable fuel source (gas, propane, etc). <S> And even then, the code is that the ignition mechanism is what needs to be raised. <S> If your water heater is electric or a heat pump, no need to raise it per code. <S> They make water heater pads that are just blocks of insulation foam. <S> Here's one from Home Depot for $11: <S> Cheap, easy to install, and add some additional insulation. <A> re: <S> "Can I just make one with 2x4 and plywood <S> that's only 4" tall, basically just enough to be able to drain water off the drain tray? <S> Or does the code require it be higher? <S> " <S> I recommend you do the following: 1. <S> Contact the Building & Code Enforcement office in your location to determine what (if any) <S> codes regulate such a change to your water heater. <S> 2. <S> If they give you the go ahead & inform you of any regulations that you must follow, then ensure your water connection hoses are flexible enough to withstand the lift that you intend to make (you may need to replace rigid or semi-rigid connection piping with properly pressure & heat rated braided hoses. <S> Also, double check your overflow piping to ensure that it will be adequate after the lift <S> (this may require you to install a pipe extension or replace the down pipe so it isn't too high above the drain pan (which could cause scalding if you have an over-pressure situation) <S> 3. <S> If everything above looks good, then use good brick (not wood) as a base for your water heater. <S> hth best regards! <A> In other situations, here are two things I consider when installing stands for "classic" tank-style water heaters: We have hard water in our area, so it is nice to drain the crud out of the tank once a year. <S> Replacing the anode periodically extends the life of the tank. <S> Anode replacement is easier if you have at least a tank height of free space above the installed heater. <S> That much clearance above will save you from searching out linked anodes. <A> I came across this and, despite it's age, merited some amendment: Gas water heaters now have to be installed with the burner 18" above ground in a garage unless the heater is specifically classified as a "Flammable Vapor Ignition Resistant" (FVIR). <S> (Ref: International Residential Code, section G2408.2 - Elevation, Exception) <S> Most if not all such heaters manufactured since roughly 2003 or so are inherently FVIR. <S> That's not to say elevating them from ground installation might not still be advantageous for water reasons, but the gas ignition concern has been significantly mitigated.
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Having the water heater off the floor high enough to comfortably connect a hose to the drain valve is nice. But if you WANT to raise it then you certainly can, though building something is likely overkill. As @Tester101 points out, IRC P2801.6 sets the minimum when you're installing an ignition-type heater in a garage. I imagine you 'can' do that, but I wouldn't recommend that you do that.
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Blocking the light from a window that spans up to the ceiling I wonder how to block the light from a window that spans up to the ceiling. I want the room to be as dark as possible. Here is the setting: An additional constraint is that I cannot remove the blind that is adjacent to the window. (I can remove the other one.) As you can see, there are currently 2 curtains that do a poor job at blocking the light, as they let light comes through the top, the left and right. <Q> If you want a complete solution for the whole window, or want to block the light just at the top, you can tape aluminum foil on the whole window or just at the top of the glass. <S> I did that once in a room that got so much sun that it was always too hot. <S> It took the temperature down about 10 degrees. <A> There are light blocking cellular shades the can be mounded toward the room side of the venetian blinds. <S> You also could get a light blocking roller shade , place it room side of the blinds, and have the shade run down channels on either side. <S> You still would probably need a baffle for light leakage at the top. <S> Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> Are they blackout curtains that you are using? <S> Also getting a curtain rod that wraps would help like the little white cheap ones from walmart. <S> Those also stay closer in so they block more light from the top. <A> Issues I see: cheap blinds - get thicker blinds <S> blind slats <S> too narrow - get wider slats on better blinds <S> the blackout curtain is light grey - I have gone through this. <S> The light grey kind of works but not like the black. <S> The fix is to go to black blackout curtain or you can go with what @Johnny mentioned in comments and sew some velvet or thick black material to the back of the curtains. <S> there is a gap at the top - you need a curtain valance. <S> Preferably going to ceiling and made out of blackout material double up. <A> The curtains & curtain rod ends look pretty good, but you need an L-bracket bent into a J-bracket for the center to match the end tightness. <S> The curtain sides would be fixed with self-stick Velcro squares. <S> Just those items should get you to almost total black-out. <S> For total black-out I choose cardboard. <S> Whether it's a single piece or multiple pieces taped & glued together. <S> Even car Sun-Shades or Windshield Shades. <S> Turn all of those eyes across the street into a Caribbean Beach, M&M guys portrait or Alicia Vikander. <S> Use cardboard box sides, not any pieces that have the flaps nor their hinge creases, so the panel stays stiff & flat.
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You can either Velcro square it over the entire opening or keep the window effect & use the blinds to secure it by just sliding it up & behind the blinds. You might need to construct baffles at the top and on the sides as well that the shades rise behind. The other benefit to cardboard is you can make it decorative by painting it or what I've done is glue-on posters or prints.
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Can I replace 1 volt lights with 2 volt lights? The 1 volt LED lights in my range hood are going out and very dim, almost like a night light. Cheap hood. I cannot find replacement bulbs for these because the bulb cannot be removed. The whole kit would need to be replaced. IKEA has spotlights for under the counter that would probably fit in the same space. I would like to buy the IKEA lights, cut off the connectors and replace with the connectors from the hood lights so that I can just plug them into the hood in place of the old lights without having to add a transformer. The problem is that the IKEA lights are 2 volt, not 1 volt like the hood lights. Will this even work? Will the lights just be dimmer or would the transformer overwork itself? <Q> Short answer: <A> Something is super fishy here, LED's usually require a bit more than 1V especially the "lighting" ones. <S> There are no "Bulbs" in LED's. <S> LED's have very very long lifespans. <S> I don't know LED's failure mode, but I don't think it's usually "getting dim <S> " I think they usually just "go out". <S> I think the SMPS might actually be bad, which I'm sure is built into the hood. <S> Long story short, an electrical engineer could "fix" this, anybody else is probably going to have to just replace the hood or not use the lights. <A> Short answers: <S> Will this even work? <S> Yes, but it'll probably be worse than what you have now in terms of brightness. <S> Will the lights just be dimmer... <S> Yes, they will. <S> ... <S> or would the transformer overwork itself? <S> No, a transformer is internally set at what ratio to step down the main voltage coming into it. <S> It will always produce the same voltage output regardless of what is connected.
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No There may be a way to redesign the circuitry but you are better off, in almost every case, to find replacement lights equivelant to what you are replacing.
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Can I test an unwired light fixture with multimeter? I’m looking at a light fixture on Craigslist, but I’d like to see if it works first. I have a multimeter that I needed for another project. Can I use the multimeter to test the light fixture before buying it? How would I use the multimeter to test the light fixture? <Q> You don't need a bulb at all to test the fixture. <S> There should be one main "neutral", and one main "hot" wire coming out of the fixture. <S> If there's more than one of each, you can tie each set all together, or test each one individually. <S> The following procedure assumes a single "hot", and single "neutral". <S> First, set the multimeter to test continuity , or the lowest resistance setting. <S> Test the "neutral" wire <S> Put one probe on the "neutral" wire. <S> Touch the other probe to the threads inside each socket. <S> Next, test the "hot" wire. <S> Put one probe to the "hot" wire. <S> Touch the other probe to the contact at the bottom of each socket. <S> The threaded portion of each socket should show continuity (or low resistance), with the "neutral" wire. <S> While the contact at the bottom of the socket, should show continuity (or low resistance) with the "hot" wire. <S> If one or more of the sockets doesn't test out, you may be able to repair the fixture. <S> It's up to you if you're willing to put in the work. <S> If you know what size socket it is, you might want to fit a bulb in the sockets to make sure they're not physically damaged (deformed, etc.). <S> As @MichaelKaras points out, you'll also want to check to make sure there's not continuity between "hot" and "neutral", or either of those and the body of the fixture. <S> With the multimeter set to test continuity (or low resistance). <S> Place one probe on the "hot" wire, and the other on the "neutral" wire. <S> With one probe still on the "hot" wire, touch the other probe to various metal parts on the fixture. <S> Place one probe on the "neutral", then touch the other probe to various metal parts on the fixture. <S> If any of these tests show continuity, then the internal wiring is likely damaged. <A> If it is for incandescent lamps there is little that can go wrong with it <S> but if you screw a good lamp into each socket and use your multimeter in continuity or ohms you should be able to test each socket individually. <S> The resistance of a 40 watt 120 volt lamp is about 360 ohms. <S> Without any lamps screwed in you should get ~infinite resistance or no continuity. <S> With a good lamp plugged in you should get continuity. <S> Good luck! <A> If there is infinite resistance, the wiring connections are bad somewhere, and if the resistance is lower than the resistance of a single bulb, the wires are shorted together. <S> However, in something like a chandelier that has multiple bulbs, the wires will have a junction point somewhere in the fixture where they fan out to each bulb. <S> Each of those connections would have to be individually tested. <S> Even then it will only tell you if a connection is completely broken. <S> A bad connection might not be noticed until you actually try to plug it in. <S> Instead... Take a cheap extension cord with the female end cut off, and wire it up to the fixture in question. <S> Put good bulbs in it <S> , hook up the two wires from the extension cord, set it on the ground and plug it in (without touching it). <S> Either it all lights up and or it doesn't. <S> You'll want to have a wire cutter/stripper and a few wire nuts with you to make a clean, safe connection. <S> That said... <S> There's not a lot that can go wrong with a chandelier that can't be fixed with a trip to the hardware store and redoing a few connections. <A> Yes and no, some testing is possible but it won't reveal all possible faults. <S> What you can do with a multimeter <S> You can measure the resistance of insulation but the test voltage will be low so certain types of fault will be missed. <S> You can measure the resistance of conductive pathways (both those intended to carry current and those intended to be protective earths) but the test current will be low and the accuracy at low resistances will be essentially nonexistent. <S> So you will have no way of knowing if a connection is just "hanging on by a thread". <S> You can test the resistance with a bulb in place to ensure that the lampholder actually makes contact with the bulb. <S> What you can't do (or can't easilly do) with a typical multimeter. <S> Test things are reliable, probing with a multimeter is unreliable enough that you are likely to blame intermittent breaks on poor probing. <S> Test conductive pathways at a high current that will burn away any connectoins that are hanging on by a thread and with an accurate measurement of resistance. <S> Test insulation at a high voltage.
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Multimeter probably isn't going to tell you much For a light fixture that takes incandescent bulbs, about the only thing that you can do is put known-good bulbs in the fixture and measure the resistance between the two wires. Overall testing with a multimeter is better than nothing but not really a substitute for proper test gear.
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Why is my shower head pressure low? I have two bathrooms back to back. one with a tub and shower and the other is a walk in shower. Both have the same shower head. One has super pressure, the other is eh. What do you this causes this? <Q> We had this issue and found it was the gasket inside the one shower head. <S> Same thing - two showers, same shower head, one didn't work right. <S> Once we removed the gasket and reinserted correctly everything was fine. <S> For us, the gasket had been disturbed during our move. <A> In the US, there is a law that a shower head can only put out a certain amount of water. <S> Depending on the design of the head, there might just be a little filter/stopper piece that can easily be removed from where it screws into the pipe. <S> Some people remove the restriction device to have "more pressure". <S> Also, some shower heads have an adjustable spray, but the adjustment method might not be obvious. <S> Some rotate, some have a lever, etc. <S> Look at it close and make sure you're not missing anything. <A> Another possibility is clogging due to lime buildup. <S> You can either remove the shower head and soak it in Lime Away, or bag it and soak it on the pipe.
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If the shower heads were installed by a previous owner, it's possible that one has been modified to put out more water.
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How to Recharge Manlift? I got my hands on an old Top Horse manlift. It looks pretty much just like this one . I tried plugging it in and turning it on and nothing happened. I think the batteries are long dead. My question is: Can I recharge the batteries (it looks like there are 3 of them next to each other) using my car battery and car charging cables? If yes, what would be the safe steps to charge all 3 batteries. If no, what else can I do to get the manlift working again? <Q> Much obliged to those who gave answers and comments. <S> They were all very useful. <S> I ended up getting the manlift to work just fine by recharging its battery <S> (there was only 1, it turns out) as if it were a car battery. <S> It ended up working just fine. <S> Thanks again for all your suggestions. <A> It could be the charger is broke or one or more of the batteries has a dead cell(s). <S> You could remove each battery and try to charge them one at a time. <S> If any of them are seriously degraded they will fail to charge or not hold a charge. <S> They may never get to more than 10 volts if they have a dead cell. <S> Then you could replace the batteries and repair the charger if it needs it. <S> Also follow the commenters advice and inspect it thoroughly for damage or wear to vital components. <S> Or have it inspected by someone with more experience with these. <A> First, are they wet cell lead-acid batteries? <S> Most (but not all) lead-acid batteries in common use are either 6 volts or 12 volts. <S> For 6 volt batteries, place 2 in series. <S> You can also clean up the batteries and check electrolyte levels in the usual way. <S> Now, brace yourself: <S> most likely, all 3 batteries are shot. <S> Lead-acid batteries <S> last only 5 to 10 years at most. <S> So you'll want to positively identify the battery from whatever labeling may remain intact, and shop for replacements. <S> Here, be warned: having gotten a suprisingly favorable deal on many a machine, there is usually a ...reason... for that. <S> Usually a lingering difficult-to-find glitch that makes the machine difficult to use, or a high-dollar repair which is unavoidable. <S> Cost of battery replacement might explain it, but just the same, watch for -other- reasons the machine might be sidelined. <S> The batteries serve two purposes: their weight counter-balances the machine to make it stable, and of course electrical power. <S> The batteries are large to give long run-time, not high amps. <S> Simply for testing, car batteries of the same voltage will suffice, since car batteries have very high amps for their size. <S> Beware that the machine will be tipsy with batteries missing or the wrong weight.
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You can recharge a 12 volt battery in all the conventional ways you'd recharge a car battery.
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Why do I have a vent stack if none of my fixtures are vented? As far as I can tell, none of my plumbing fixtures are vented. I have a double-sink in the kitchen, but no vent pipe. My washroom ( photo here ) similarly has an s-trap. Same thing on my washing machine and drain basin ( photo ). I can see a large black pipe poking out of my roof, just about where the drain lines are going into the floor. So I assume I have a main vent stack, but what does it do in my case? Why do I have a main vent stack if none of my fixtures are vented? If it helps to identify typical construction methods, my house is about 80 years old and located in Toronto, Canada. <Q> Depending on the size and age of your home, and the location of the plumbing fixtures. <S> It's entirely possible that there's only a single vent stack. <S> If all the drains are within a certain distance of the stack, no additional vent pipes may be required. <S> According to Wikipedia's article on Drain-waste-vent system . <S> ... <S> Under many older building codes, a vent stack (a pipe leading to the main roof vent) is required to be within a 5-foot (1.5 m) radius of the draining fixture it serves (sink, toilet, shower stall, etc.). <S> To allow only one vent stack, and thus one roof penetration as permitted by local building code, sub-vents may be tied together inside the building and exit via a common vent stack... <A> Your system is almost certainly vented. <S> So the comment about "wet venting" is right on target. <S> As long as the combination of pipe diameter, the slope of the pipe and the distance between the trap and the vent ensure that the pipe doesn't run full of water (creating a siphon), a single downstream vent can be just fine. <A> The one pipe you notice exiting from the roof is indeed a vent stack. <S> Since there is only that single pipe projecting out it would be reasonable to guess it is the main stack that all the other drain lines connect into. <S> The simple reason for not seeing any smaller or secondary vents is because they are located out of sight behind the walls at each sink or tub or toilet. <S> If you could remove the drywall and expose everything behind it you would see a maze of ABS (or cast iron) pipe. <S> For every drain most vents start as 1 1/2 - 2 inch pipe. <A> (note: this answer is based on UK practices, the general principles are likely to apply everywhere but <S> details of how the problems are mitigated may vary between jurisdictions). <S> Various nasty gasses can come off the contents of waste pipes and we don't want those gasses to be allowed into the house. <S> To block the sewer gasses from entering the house we have "traps" (the most common style being a U bend <S> but there are other varieties). <S> These are designed to remain full of water and hence provide a gas barrier between the room and the drainage system. <S> But traps only work for small pressure differentials. <S> If the pressure in the waste system is too high (for example because of rotting waste producing gas) <S> then gas from the waste system can bubble out through the traps. <S> If the pressure in the waste system is too low (for example because of siphon affects) then it can suck the water out of the trap. <S> One common soloution to this is to have a vertical pipe (the "stack") running above roof level where it is vented. <S> This provides a path for any pressure builup in the system to excape and as long as the fixtures are close to the stack and connected to it by gently sloping pipes this one vent at the top is enough to reduce siphon affects to an accepable level. <S> If the fixtures are a long way from the stack there may be a need for specific vent pipes returning from the fixtures to the stack (alternatively there may just be more than one stack so that there aren't any fixtures a long distance from their stack). <S> There are other soloutions too. <S> Sinks, baths etc (but not toilets) in older houses in the UK often have an open pipe draining into a drain (for downstairs stuff) or hopper (for upstairs stuff) outside. <S> Since they don't let air out they can be installed indoors. <S> Such valves will let air in to break a siphon <S> but they won't let pressure out. <S> So they will reduce but not eliminate the need for "open" ventilation. <A> Of course your system is vented. <S> If it was not vented it would not drain properly (if at all). <S> The vent riser pipe is connected to your waste pipe system inside your walls, where you cannot see. <S> If you wish you could open the wall below where the vent riser is and educate yourself on the configuration. <S> This would lead to significant wall repair so I would suggest going to your local library and checking out a book about residential plumbing design. <S> Your taxes already pay for operation of the library, you might as well take advantage of the opportunity.
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Plumbing vents provide a path for sewer gases to escape so they don't bubble up through the P traps into your house under pressure (the sewer gases will expand and exert greater than atmospheric pressure), and the vents also keep water pressure from siphoning your traps dry, which would create an easy natural path for sewer gases to infiltrate your home. More modern systems may use air admittance valves which let air in but not out. They will connect to the main stack which will increase in size depending on how much water it handles to about 3-4 inches in most residential homes.
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How do I repair a broken polystyrene part? I have a speaker whose mount broke. I previously tried to fix it using a common 2-part "5 minute" epoxy (I believe I did 2 or 3 separate applications, trying to get some thickness on it), but after a few months that repair failed (if I remember correctly, it was being picked up to clean underneath, as had been done many times before, and it simply gave way). The base (light gray, right side of photo) is polystyrene and I'm almost certain this piece is as well. It originally broke on a bit of an irregular slice, going through some of the reinforced ridges on the part: it is 3.2mm at the narrowest to to 6.5mm at the widest. The break is also right where it sits in the base, so there's not a ton of lateral area to work with. What can I use to reliably glue this part back together again? <Q> Forget trying to glue it, repair it some other way. " <S> McGyver" it. <S> Like maybe buy a lock hasp of appropriate size and use the staple , which is the piece that the lock shackle would go through (see picture). <S> Sorry I could not find a picture of just the staple. <S> Screw the staple to the speaker body and the staple hole would rest in the base, aligned with the hole in the base. <S> Use a nut and bolt to secure it, with washers and bushings to take up any slack. <S> paint it black to match <S> and only you will know it is there. <S> Or find some other alternative way to rig it, as glue is likely to disappoint you. <A> If it's polystyrene, you'll probably get the best bond with modelling glue - it's as close to a weld as you can get with that type of plastic. <S> You'll want to get all of the epoxy off first though - otherwise you won't get a decent weld. <S> Since it is obviously a high stress part, I'd drill and pin it with piano wire in at least a couple places. <S> That said, I wouldn't get your hopes up too high - if it originally broke just from the "stress" of simply being picked up even a perfect repair isn't going to solve it being under-engineered. <A>
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Sometimes you can use a soldering iron to weld the parts back together
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Kitchen sink/garbage disposal waste draining into backyard I've recently discovered that my mother in-law has a planter outside her kitchen window which is catching run off from her sink. There is a pool of water and a smell that can now be detected from the other side of the house. Not sure if its seeping into/under the foundation or if its just the smell. Aside from worrying about the stagnant water; what else do she need to be concerned with and what is she looking at in terms of cost and fines from the HOAA etc. From what I know its been like that for over 2 years! Is this ok? I personally dont even want my kids playing in her back yard. What can I do to help make this... more pleasant to be around? The planter is a concrete barrier that extends about 2 feet from the house and is maybe 8 feet long. Its like a trough and the sink/garbage disposal basically drains into it. Do I add bark? A chemical? Powder? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Talking her into a plumber but... yea. I gotta go post some where else for help with that. Thank you for your time. Merlin <Q> In California where I live, gray water systems are allowed by some localities, but generally only for showers, laundry, and lavatory sinks. <S> Kitchen sinks tend to have grease that is too hard to break down. <A> Thank you for the responses. <S> I've discovered that water from that bin is being drained into the street. <S> There IS a pipe that comes from the backyard to the street so the gray water system is making more sense. <S> I thought she was about to be swallowed up by a sinkhole. <S> Gotta figure out what to do about the smell. <A> What your mother-in-law is doing is similar to composting. <S> As long as the water entering the planter is not from the toilet and doesn't contain animal fat there shouldn't be any cause for alarms. <S> The water and vegetable scraps are readily consumed and absorbed by microbes and plants in the planter bed. <S> It may be wise to install a by-pass valve or a three-way valve so that drain water can be diverted back to the house drain when the planter soil is flooded. <S> This is a simple plumbing set-up that has a ball valve at the beginning of the grey water plumbing line. <S> To get rid of the standing odor simply shovel a layer of dirt on top of the planters' soil. <S> This will add more microbes that will consume the food particles causing the smell.
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If the water isn't being diffused into the planter soil it is because either the ground is so saturated it can't absorb any more liquid or there is a non-permeable layer under the top soul preventing fluid from percolating deeper. Rather than see the grey water as a problem think of it as helping the planet.
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Do I have to connect the grounding electrode at a detached garage to the grounding electrode at the main structure? Article 250.32(A) of the National Electrical Code, tells us that we need a grounding electrode at a detached garage. It also says that it has to be " installed in accordance with Part III of Article 250. ". National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 250 Grounding and Bonding 250.32 Buildings or Structures Supplied by a Feeder(s) or Branch Circuit(s). (A) Grounding Electrode. Building(s) or structure(s) supplied by feeder(s) or branch circuit(s) shall have a grounding electrode or grounding electrode system installed in accordance with Part III of Article 250. The grounding electrode conductor(s) shall be connected in accordance with 250.32(B) or (C). Where there is no existing grounding electrode, the grounding electrode(s) required in 250.50 shall be installed. Then the first part of Part III of Article 250 says, " All grounding electrodes... ...that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system. ". III. Grounding Electrode System and Grounding Electrode Conductor 250.50 Grounding Electrode System. All grounding electrodes as described in 250.52(A)(1) through (A)(7) that are present at each building or structure served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system. Where none of these grounding electrodes exist, one or more of the grounding electrodes specified in 250.52(A)(4) through (A)(8) shall be installed and used. Does that mean that the electrode(s) at the garage, has to be connected back to the electrode(s) at the main structure? <Q> Yes, they should be connected so that the power has a set path back to the source. <S> Rods in the ground are there for a direct shot of electricity (lightning.) <S> Connecting back to the source is for actual grounding - to tie in with the neutral and cause a short if any sort of ground fault were to occur. <S> Without this, running the ground rods and electrodes would not flip the breaker in most cases. <S> (source: nachi.org ) <A> Since there is still some uncertainty here, I took a minute to create an image that might fix some of this. <S> Lightning is a DC shot of electricity going to the ground, it's source. <S> So it's easiest to consider it that way. <S> Next, lightning is so powerful that it creates a surrounding zone of energy on any conductive material that is able, the yellow circles. <S> Everything that is within a distance becomes energized to a point, but is again still from the lightning and is trying to go one way - to the ground. <S> This is why everything metal is bonded or grounded: so that nothing needs to arc to find a path, since it has it's own. <S> Regardless of how it gets to ground, it's going there. <S> Back to the electrodes though. <S> Consider my image above as being of a main structure and a garage. <S> For all purposes necessary with lightning, there is no need to tie them together. <S> As mentioned above about 100,000A of power coming off of a lightning strike, more rods and such can help dissipate the power faster and catch a little more of it than is going through metal in your home, but regardless it's still 100,000A of power ... <S> what happens, happens. <S> Whether it's your garage or your neighbors house that is splitting the distance of the strike zone, tying them together won't fully relieve the problem of getting struck by lightning. <S> For purposes of the code, which you fully understand, the connection that is made between the two of them is your EGC that is only for ground faults. <S> The reason this is in the code is because some people think that running a ground rod will be the miracle solution to ground faults and that the wire isn't necessary. <S> This isn't the case though. <S> For ground faults, the EGC is the answer because it sends the fault back to it's own source - the utility. <S> For small voltage differences throughout a system, a ground rod (or multiple for higher systems) is driven. <S> However, for lightning, you are again giving the ground rod as a path for the voltage difference caused by it, but tying the full system together doesn't help all that much more than one rod. <S> Hopefully this answer helps a little better. <A> Short answer: <S> No <S> Here's the quote you had: that are present at each building or structure <S> served shall be bonded together to form the grounding electrode system <S> Notice <S> it says at each building not between buildings. <S> It should finish that sentence with "for that building". <S> So, if you have a lightning protection system and the required grounding electrode for the communications at a building then the electrical service GE and the others all have to be bonded together to "form the grounding electrode system". <S> This prevents potential differences between any of the systems. <S> But as soon as you have two circuits or if you have a sub-panel you must install a grounding electrode and grounding electrode conductor large enough for the panel as if it was considered a service even though it isn't. <S> Also, if you have a GE at the garage then it is indirectly connected back to the house grounding electrode conductor through the equipment grounding conductor that serves the circuit that feeds the garage. <S> This is still considered an EGC not a GEC and needs to be sized according to Table 250.122 (for the size of the feeder) <S> not 250.66 (for the size of service conductors). <S> In most ways the sub-panel is treated as if it was in the same building with the exception of the grounding electrode and the GEC, which is if it was a separately derived system. <S> Clear as mud <S> eh? <S> Maybe this will help. <S> This is all you need to do for a separate building according to the NEC Handbook.
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You only need a grounding electrode at the second building if you have more than one circuit (and in this case a multi-wire branch circuit can be considered one circuit).
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Why do we fit skirting boards to collect dust? In all the UK homes I remember, the skirting boards (baseboards) are designed to collect dust by exposing a horizontal or sloping surface. See a cross-section on the left of this image: Surely we could fit a rectangular profile piece of skirting to the walls before plastering, and make the plaster flush with the front face. See cross-section on right above. A bead of flexible caulk would bridge the join to conceal the crack (you often need this on normal skirting anyway). I'm not about to demolish my house to fit new skirting boards, but why didn't some genius think of this 100 years ago? Or is there a flaw in my design? <Q> Wikipedia <S> In architecture, a baseboard (also called skirting board, skirting, mopboard, floor molding, as well as base molding) <S> is a (generally wooden) board covering the lowest part of an interior wall. <S> Its purpose is to cover the joint between the wall surface and the floor. <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baseboard <S> It's much easier to finish the plaster and then tack on the board that take the time to ensure everything is flush and not get any plaster onto the board. <S> I don't believe that they are "designed" to collect dust, that is simply a side-effect of using them. <A> Trim in most all forms (window casings, baseboards, even crown moulding at times) is primarily there to make the finishing between two different surfaces easier . <S> Done <S> well, they also add detail, of course, but for the most part, it's a practical solution first and foremost. <S> Overlapping the baseboard makes that a lot easier to deal with. <S> With your design you'd have to work hard scribing both the wood and the plaster/plaster boards to accommodate even the slightest bit of out-of-squareness details still matter. <S> You likely will still need some sort of reveal (gap) between the baseboard and wall simply for aesthetic reasons. <S> This is done, but typically costs more in labor, as it's a finicky thing to deal with. <S> maintenance/remodel. <S> An overlapping baseboard is easy to remove/replace anytime in the future, while an 'embedded' one would require a lot more finesse and limit one's options. <A> As others have pointed out, the two main reasons are practicality and aesthetics. <S> It is much easier to build with a baseboard. <S> Notice, for example, that baseboards often times also have a "quarter round" attached to them ( example ). <S> The reason for these is because the tall section baseboard will have a very easy time "hugging" the wall imperfections, whereas it won't be able to readily hug the floor imperfections. <S> So in many houses, simply slapping a rectangular baseboard without the quarter round will result in an unseemly gap underneath it. <S> Floors, while straight, will vary by more than a few mm per 10m, and a 2mm gap under a section of baseboard is very clearly visible. <S> The quarter round solves this problem. <S> Once again, as others have pointed out, there is also the order of construction. <S> Generally speaking you do not want to put your finished hardwoods floors on before you have built the walls. <S> Workers, tools, wet plaster are all things that will damage your beautiful (expensive) finish surfaces. <S> Which means that when you put the sheet rock on the wall, it will go down all the way to the subfloor.
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The purpose of a baseboard is to easily cover the joint so that it does not have to be seen. You could certainly do what you propose, but some of the challenges you will run into would include: Houses are rarely square. But also, you are fixing cosmetic imperfections that will look incredibly jarring to the eye if they were left exposed.
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Remove cured Danish oil from tiles My worktops are treated with Danish oil, and I appear to have got some on the tiled splashbacks and not noticed until it's cured (it's not very obvious except in daylight, I oiled by artifical light). Is there any way to get it off? I don't want to use a blade until I've got an idea of how to get the residue off where the blade won't attack it. It's not going sticky, so not a duplicate of How to solve the problem of sticky Danish oil? . <Q> Mineral spirits won't work. <S> You need something stronger like acetone. <S> If you have ceramic tiles they won't be harmed. <A> I finally got round to experimenting. <S> The following had no effect at all even combined with elbow grease: white spirit (mineral spirits) petrol (zippo fuel) <S> WD40 <S> These - with rubbing - removed the cured oil. <S> In subjective order of increasing effectiveness: methylated spirits 100% acetone cellulose thinners <S> It is of course possible that there was a cumulative effect <S> (I only worked on a small test patch). <S> I'm sure soaking would help <S> but that's not useful on a vertical surface above a worktop treated with the same stuff. <A> Mineral Spirits is used to clean brushes and other finishes from other things, so this may be something to try. <A> I spilled some sugar soap solution on my worktop and it removed the danish oil rather too well, so I expect it would do the same on tiles. <S> The difficulty would be in protecting the worktop below.
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I would trying using Mineral Spirits with a scrap piece of cloth or a toothbrush/brush to scrub if need be.
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Wiring for Internet of Things I'm interested in home automation and the Internet of Things and what options presently exist in the relatively cutting-edge field. I would like to know if it is possible to use something like a central home computer (equivalent to ECUs in vehicles) that is connected to the internet and which can, for example, flip power switches without the need that the switch itself has a CPU and modem to connect to the internet directly, like the Nest thermostat does (which makes it bigger, more complicated and expensive). In order to do that, the electric (Romex) NM cable that is normally 14/2 NM (hot, neutral, and ground), that connects the switch, would also need to have data wires or cable to correspond with the computer, which, I'm guessing should be close to or better yet integrated in the main electrical panel. The above paragraph is something between a fantasy guess and an educated hypothesis. I'm asking if what I described exists or is on its way or am I missing how the whole thing should work. <Q> I'm not sure of particular products or solutions, but I will say that hardwiring any of it is quickly becoming obsolete. <S> Technology will advance which will downsize the products and make everything more convenient. <S> As mentioned before, anything can be done if you throw enough money at it. <S> But honestly, it's actually cheaper now-a-days to get the convenient stuff. <S> And back towards your example, that can all be done with programmable logic and some relays to create a whole home system that can be rewired at will without the need for any internet connection. <S> Again though, this isn't exactly cheap. <A> Wow! <S> I hope you have some time to devote to this. <S> This area has exploded in recent years with everybody and their mom getting into it. <S> Basically you can do anything you have the desire (and money) to do. <S> Here is just one web site of a group that has an open source agnostic home automation system. <S> http://www.openhab.org <S> Get youself an Arduino or RaspberryPi and start learning. <S> The adventure begins! <A> I think you are trying to solve this "the old way", with some kind of centralized switching. <S> Today, what you are calling in your post "CPU and modem" is typically accomplished by the addition of what has become VERY inexpensive microprocessors and single-chip radio transceivers. <S> There are several examples of this even in the realm of devices for makers and hackers to use for experimental purposes that can provide both the "smarts" and the internet connectivity for a single device... <S> for less than $10. <S> With the price of that part of the system so low, and always dropping... <S> it is no longer more cost efficient or desirable to "centralize" a home automation system. <S> These days the push is to create a network of partially autonomous devices that all communicate with each other and with centralized human interfaces. <S> (and not in a good way) <A> For IoT applications (Internet of Things) <S> no new wires will be required. <S> Most devices use WiFi radio, or a wireless mesh network like Bluetooth or Zigbee or Z-Wave. <S> For conventional home control Insteon is a brand of home automation products that runs signals over the existing house wiring. <S> Only a few high speed signals, like those for a PC or video streaming for cameras, really benefit from having wires any more.
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In short...wires are "old school". Right now there are already the Belkin switches that fit in a regular switch box, connect over wifi and with existing electrical wires, and can be controlled through a phone instead of a desktop computer or set interface.
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Wall Outlet with three sets of wires! have another issue with another outlet in this very improperly done house I just bought. During my slow replacing of all the wall outlets, I came across this new one which has me baffled on how to translate this to a standard outlet. Here's what I'm currently looking at and the new outlet I'm trying to get this all wire to... for simplicity, I have the outlet ports numbered and the three wires with letters. I'm assuming we all know what ground is, so we can ignore that since it's pretty simple. Wires (A) - From what I can tell, wire set A goes to another outlet or continue the feed for that line of power. Wires (B) - This is the power coming to this box (tested with a volt meter to 120v) Wires (C) - This set goes to a Light switch that powers lights in that same room which ends there (does not continue from that switch). This switch controlled only the lights and not the outlet. Now, the outlet that was there was busted and never worked, so I can't be 100% certain the switch didn't also control the outlet, but I figure that would be really weird to have a switch that controls an outlet AND recessed lighting. This used to be an office before we moved in. In my haste to get this quickly changed over to a new outlet I completely forgot to document how the old busted switch had them plugged in... but here's what I do know about the old switch: The middle connector piece on one side was broken, so each outlet was separate. Wire set A and B were pig tailed to the bottom half of the old outlet ALL other wires were push plugged into the old outlet. So, that all being said... here's what I've tried so far to no success. I tried to pigtail all the blacks together and put them into screw #3 and all the whites pigtailed into screw #1... that tripped the circuit breaker when I turned the power back on. Bad idea. Tab between the two outlets was NOT broken. I tried pigtailing A and B together with blacks into screw #3 and whites into #1. Tab between outlets is NOT broken. Power to both outlets, but of course no power to the light switch. I tried pigtailing A and B together with blacks into screw #4 and whites into #2. I put C black into 3 and C white into 1. Tab between outlets IS broken. Power back on... I get power to the bottom outlet but no power to the top outlet and the light switch does not power on. What am I missing here? Thanks for the read! <Q> First, your illustrations are Mad Awesome. <S> Literally. <S> You might even talk to Mike Holt or others doing electrical docs. <S> You still have some knowledge gaps, so I'd school up some more. <S> For a guy as smart as you, knowledge is cheap. <S> If you are good at visual, stay with that. <S> 12 gauge is the universal donor size, it is acceptable on any common 120v circuit up to 20 amp breaker. <S> First, permanently wrap (tag) <S> the white wire of cable C with red tape . <S> From your comments elsewhere that there is only one cable going to the switch, that is a switch loop . <S> Also open up the switch box and wrap the other end of that same white wire. <S> Next, permanently wrap (tag) <S> the black wire of cable A with red tape . <S> Since the switch is a switch loop, this cable is the only possible way the lights could possibly be receiving (switched) power. <S> Now grab your receptacle and some stripped Romex and sit at a convenient workbench. <S> Put 6" pigtails of wire as follows. <S> Use the screw terminals or screw-and-clamp if you have that type. <S> Avoid backstabs (they're not reliable) and never use 12AWG on a backstab. <S> Ground terminal: a bare (or green) wire. <S> screw 1: a white wire. <S> screw 2: nothing, but if the tab between 1 and 2 has been broken, a white wire. <S> screw 3: a black wire. <S> screw 4: nothing, but if the tab between 3 and 4 is broken, a black wire. <S> Ready? <S> Splice all same colors together . <S> See, what I did was color-code all the wires to their function rather than the default colors of /2 cable. <S> The switch loop has only hot (black) and switched-hot (red). <S> The wire to the lights needs switched-hot (red) and real neutral (white). <S> In new work, they commonly use red for the switched hot, because the law now requires neutral in switch loops (for smart switches). <S> So they run some /3 <S> cable up there. <A> Probably waay late, but isn't it as simple as A goes to your lighting circuit, B is your mains/feed/power, and C is your switch leg ( <S> lot of old wiring s like that). <S> If so, B-Black goes to 4 B-White goes to 2 C-Black goes to A Black C-White <S> goes to 3 (but wrap of red tape or black tape on wire) <S> A-Black goes to C Black <S> A-White goes to 1 <S> This assumes that C is wired to a 2-screw Single Pole-Single Throw Switch and is wired with white feeding hot to Switch (wrap with red or black tape) and black returns that power when switch is closed. <S> Kudos on DWG, awesome graphic. <S> Though I would lable differently Mains= <S> A, <S> Switch=B, Lighting= <S> C Outlet bottom being Bottom Hot 1, Top Hot 2, Bottom Neutral 3, Top Neutral 4. <S> Maxwell <A> What it sound like you may have is a 1/2 switched outlet, this is done a lot in house. <S> You are going to need to check line C (the switch) for continuity with a meter. <S> First turn off the breaker that controls that area. <S> Second check the switch, with a meter or non contact voltage tester, that the power is off. <S> If you get continuity then you could do the same thing as before using the black (of line C) for power and the white (of line C) as the switch leg for the top part of the receptacle. <A> It looks like cable C is not what you think it is, or is shorted between black and white somewhere. <S> Rather than properly replacing the cable with a 3-wire as far as the light switch, Dr. Frankenstein decided to re-purpose the bare ground wire of cable C as a neutral, with either the white or black feeding back from the switch to half the outlet. <S> You have to open the switch box and see how it's actually wired. <S> You are going to open this box anyway to check the continuity of the cable. <S> As always, be careful. <S> Don't trust any neutrals to be neutral or any grounds to be grounded -- hot wires could be anywhere. <A> Don't know if you already got the answer here <S> but I just changed a 3 wire socket. <S> These were the 3wire flat wrapped type. <S> 1)Stripped all wires, 2)hot wire for light switch on copper screw, 3) <S> hot wire for plug #1 on second copper screw, 4)hot wire for plug <S> #2 insert in hole on back, 5)null wire <S> #1 on silver screw, 6)null wire <S> #2 on second silver screw, 7)null wire <S> #3 inserted in hole on back. <S> Wrap one green wire around green screw. <S> Worked first time. <S> No problem.
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Third, knowing that the power is off, turn on the switch and check continuity between the black and white wire, at your the problem outlet Box. Twist together 2nd and 3rd green wire together and cap. Of course this is just a wild guess -- but given the context it's possible that the switch on the C branch was changed to control half of the outlet. Buy a variety-pack of electrical tape colors, and a couple feet of 12/3 cable because it's a cheap way to get a variety of wire colors for pigtails. Then even the lettering and numbering would make sense. :D If your house had been wired by a sane electrician I would advise searching out the short in the C branch. You could illustrate electrical books. 14ga is only allowed on 15A breakers/with 14ga wire.
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What is the best way to cut this PVC line in a hot tub? I am helping a buddy replace a filter housing, on which the lid threads have split off, in a hot tub. All of the piping is PVC. The inlet and outlet have fitting right up to the junction of the filter housing, leaving basically no place to cut the line. Top picture is the inlet, bottom is the outlet. In both pictures, the housing is the gray piece on the left of the picture. In the inlet, I could potentially just cut it way back before the tee, and replace all the pieces there after. On the outlet side, though, the pipe curves immediately upon exiting the last manifold fitting, making it very unlikely that it will fit into a new fitting. Plus, cutting and replacing all off those hoses and fitting seems like a huge amount of work, if someone knows a better way... Any ideas?Thanks so much! <Q> I can see your predicament: cut it all or nothing. <S> It is possible to remove PVC pipe that has been welded into a fitting. <S> I've sawed out pipe sections from slip valves and re-glued the valve with no leaks. <S> It's an extreme last ditch effort, but I don't see any other way other than cutting the entire manifold out . <S> Hopefully some one else will see an easier way. <S> Here's how I'd do it: Looking at your first photo, the short length of pipe as it enters the 45, can be cut half-way up the hub so that half of the connection is left (left on the 'Tee and short pipe stub). <S> This will free one end of the housing. <S> The amputated 45 sleeve attached to the pipe that is the inlet can be section with a saw and should peel off with pliers a segment at a time. <S> The outlet at the 45 and housing connection; the same can be done. <S> This will free the housing. <S> At the 45 you will have to cut segments into the still glued pipe. <S> A hacksaw blade works well. <S> Cut a minimum of 6-8 segments around the inside pipe and only cut the pipe not the fitting hub it is glued to. <S> A quick blast with a heat gun to soften the PVC helps. <S> If you are successful you'll only have some minor saw marks after the pipe is removed. <S> They won't affect the seal once new sections are glued. <S> Use primer and <S> "Hot" (blue) glue when installing new pipe. <A> Is your time worth anything? <S> Not "are you getting paid" (helping a buddy I assume not) but <S> do you/your buddy value it at all? <S> If so, find the nearest point (if any) where you can put a coupling on the cut pipe, cut there, scrap the fittings in-between and re-plumb with new fittings and pipe (and perhaps add some unions to the system so it's not quite as all-or-nothing the next time.) <S> Cluster-bleep plumbing seems to be a common "feature" of hot tubs, I suppose from trying to cram it all into no space. <A> You could use a "Fernco" fitting to re-connect the cut pieces. <S> They can be made to seal quite well. <S> Since it might have to fit over a fitting and not over a standard pipe diameter, you might have to experiment to see what coupling size would fit the best. <S> Example:
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The more segments you cut the less chance of cracking the fitting when removing the pipe and the easier it is to remove.
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Retiling a tub surround, not sure how to shim it I just ripped out the original tile and backer board on a secondary bathroom in my home and now it's time to put the new stuff up and I'm a bit stumped. The backer board was originally installed on top of the drywall which is causing a spacing problem. My tub is an old cast iron tub and it's 59 5/8" long. The opening stud to stud varies from 61" to 61 3/8". I've checked out this question and answer and I'm trying to do what is illustrated in the first drawing, but my backer board would align behind the tub flange. On the faucet side, I could easily install shims/furring strips to properly align the backer board with the tub as the wall only extends 6" past the tub. The other wall is the problem. Since there was drywall on top of the studs and then backer board on top of it, if I use shims there, I'll end up with my backerboard coming out on top of the drywall that continues down the rest of the wall. The original tile used bullnose trim tile where the backer board transitioned back to the drywall, but the new tile doesn't have that option. What should I do? <Q> I see that the floor tile (and possibly the plumbing, a cement bed, or whatever) prevent you from moving the tub. <S> That was going to be my first suggestion. <S> If it's a possibility, do that. <S> Move it only as far as necessary toward the long wall to make it flush with the cement board. <S> Otherwise, I also see that you have the drywall cut back some distance on the flat wall. <S> I'd cut it back further <S> if you can, then intall the shims as you describe above the tub. <S> Taper shims out on the studs outside the tub. <S> Use a 4' or 6' level or other straightedge horizontally to find the best compromise between flat wall and parallel to the tub. <S> (You may need to continue the taper over the tub, toward the corner, to maintain a flat wall.) <S> Take the taper all the way to the next corner if you need to and can, or as far as possible. <S> It appears that you only need to gain about 1/4" (I'd eyeball the gap plus the thickness of the tub flange to be about 3/4".) <S> That should be no trouble to taper out. <S> Carpentry, especially in remodel situations, is often about finding the best compromise from an aesthetic standpoint. <S> Here, because your floor tile is diagonal, you can afford to fudge the wall a bit to make all this work together. <A> Some basic comments on what I would do: <S> First I see that you cut out a 18-24 inches beyond the tub. <S> That is fine. <S> But I like to see a 2x4 right where you would put a shower curtain up and another to the far right to help handle the drywall. <S> Flip these 2x4s on their side since you have electric. <S> If your gap is too big then add 1/4" drywall behind backer. <S> If still too big go 1/2". <S> But I doubt that. <S> You have backer at .42" <S> then thinset, then tile. <S> I am pretty sure you can cover that lip. <S> Only run a sheet of backer going straight up and down - so three feet from corner by 5 feet high. <S> Drywall right next to it. <S> You may need another 2x4. <S> After you put up backer and drywall <S> I think you should be able to feather out the area just fine. <S> If you can't you might have to lay 1/4" drywall on top of the existing. <S> Really this just comes down to 1/4"s. <S> I can go into better details if you give me the exact gap <S> , what backer you are using, what tile you are using and so on. <S> I wouldn't worry about moving the tub though. <S> Note: <S> Always install a 2x where there would logically be a shower door or curtain. <S> Therefore if you want to install something in the future you aren't ripping out the other side of your wall or having saggy shower curtain. <S> I would also make sure that you have 2xs and crosses set up for any sort of bars or cabinets that will go in. <S> You cannot overframe a bathroom. <S> Anchors fail in bathrooms before they would in other rooms. <A> OP's comment: "The flooring is coming up next." <S> So this is a gut job. <S> Drywall is the enemy. <S> Big hole/little hole = <S> same amount of work. <S> Use an 'F' profile style Metal Bullnose Tile Strip. <S> I've no affiliation with the company that make this one, I just came across it looking for standard bullnose edging. <S> It seems to be made exactly for this situation, where you place backerboard over your existing drywall. <S> ( source )
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Remove the rest of that wall's drywall and shim every stud with 2x4s attached to their sides, letting them project as needed (a six foot level is your friend here).
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Fix a screw into a wall-plug The mirror in the bathroom is held by two hooks, that are screwed into the wall through wall-plugs. One of the hooks has become loose, and can easily turn around, and is thus not holding the mirror anymore. (So the wall-plug is not spinning in the wall, it is the screw itself which does.) If I tighten the screw more, then it becomes fixed, but then the hook is too near to the mirror and cannot be hanged anymore. The other hook is very solid, even at the right distance. I have already tried gluing the screw to the wall-plug with Loctite, but it still keeps moving. I have already seen this related question, but I do not think it is relevant for two reasons: If I want, I can tighten the screw, but then (as said above), it is too near to the wall. If at all possible, I would like to avoid drilling another hole, I would rather try some other solution to glue the screw to the wall-plug. <Q> If that doesn't work try a slightly larger diameter screw. <S> You can help stop this problem from happening again by adding a spacer between the hook and the wall. <S> The spacer can be of any material. <S> The thickness should be whatever is now the distance between the hook and the wall. <S> The diameter should be about four times the thickness. <S> The hole should be only large enough for the screw. <S> This will allow the screw to hold the hook tightly and prevent it from wiggling and working the screw loose again. <S> Once you know the dimensions of the spacer, a hardware or DIY store can help you find it. <A> Might not be the answer you're looking for, but (as was the answer to that other question) <S> you could pull it out and get a new plug. <S> You might not need to redrill if you're careful or get a plug that'll hook into whatever hole is left. <S> Also, I know it could just be preference, but have you tried Gorilla Glue? <A> Glue by itself is rarely the right answer when a screw isn't holding. <S> It sounds like you've stripped out the threads in the anchor. <S> As others have said, switching to a thicker screw would solve that, by cutting new threads. <S> A longer screw MIGHT <S> reach an undamaged part of the anchor but is a less reliable solution. <S> (The other classic solution is to partly fill the hole to force cutting new threads... <S> but it's hard to make that approach work with plastic or metal.) <S> Note that the most common cause of threads getting stripped is overtightening the screw or bolt. <A> A small tub of filler from a local DIY chain could do the trick - put the filler in the hole and then push the plug back in. <A> If I understand the issue correctly, you could insert a shim ( <S> the 'paper' end of a matchbook match works for me) into the hole, then screw in the screw. <S> This will work similar to filling the hole with glue or using a larger diameter screw but in a less destructive measure.
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It sounds like a longer screw of the same diameter would solve your problem. It should look like a thick washer.
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What part is faulty when a pneumatic nail gun does not leak any air, is not jammed, but does not fire? I have a Porter Cable DA250C (15ga angle finishing nailer). Worked fine yesterday until it just stopped. The gun does nothing at all when the trigger is depressed. It is not jammed. The piston is oiled and I can move it smoothly with my finger. All the troubleshooting guides and other people posting online about nail guns always mention air leaking from somewhere. But, in my case, there is no air leaking at all . It just acts like it is not plugged in. But there is definitely air going in, it just does nothing when the trigger is pulled. There is no sound and nothing moves. I took it apart, but nothing looks visibly damaged. Any idea which part may be faulty? Is there a test I can try to determine the problem? <Q> It was the trigger valve. <S> There was no visual damage or noticeable leaking, and I took it apart and everything seemed fine. <S> But I ordered a new trigger valve and replaced it anyway, and it fixed the problem. <S> Hopefully this helps someone else, since there was nothing noticeably wrong with the faulty part. <A> I'd start by checking to make sure that the contact trip wire is engaging the trigger. <S> That would be the wire on the right side of the nailer (as it's facing away from you) <S> that runs from the safety tip to the trigger housing. <S> I'd try adjusting this all the way to both stops to see if it will re-engage. <S> If neither of these does anything, I'd guess that the trigger is either faulty or needs to be cleaned. <S> The sequential actuation triggers (the red ones) are a bit finicky and have been the only parts that I've ever needed to replace on Porter Cable nailers. <A> Unless you have a compressor valve shut on the air-line or no air in the tank it is probably the safety trigger on the nose of the gun. <S> It needs to be depressed before you can squeeze the trigger to fire a nail. <S> make sure you have a filter in-line with the air just before it enters the hose. <S> Could be blockage in the hose. <S> Try it with a different hose or connect the nailer directly to the compressor.
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Some Porter Cable guns also have an adjustment knob above the trigger where the safety trip connects that will control how far the tip needs to be depressed in order to activate the trigger.
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How can I drill a 2" deep hole, 1/16" in diameter? Does a 2" (5 cm) cutting depth 1/16" (1.6 mm) drill bit even exist? If not, is there any way for me to make this hole? I'm drilling a fiberglass/foam sandwich if it matters, and I want to make a hundred holes. My cheap standard drill bits cut the fiberglass just fine, but are half the length I need. And yes, I'm aware that the reason they're kept short is so they don't break all the time. This probably sounds weird – it's for installing a starlight ceiling effect in a fiberglass float tank. <Q> A quick visit to a metalworking supplier website finds 3" long (overall length) ones with 1.7" cutting depth (presumably the flute depth, so for light-duty drilling if you "peck" (pull out to clear chips) <S> when you get deep you could probably get it done. " <S> Extended-Reach Drill Bits" A more extensive search might find a longer one. <S> Buy them by the dozen, you probably will break some and they are usually cheaper that way. <S> A different metalworking supplier website has 6" and 12" OAL listed (under "aircraft drills" which the other site calls "Short-Flute Extended-Reach Drill Bits") but only 7/8" flutes, which would be a lot more pecking to get the chips out. <A> This is more of a shopping question. <S> I just looked before I answered the question and I have two 1/16" bits at around 3-4 inches (sorry too lazy to get the tape out). <S> Put them in your drill with 2 inches sticking out and drill. <S> Will they break? <S> Maybe. <S> You will only break them because you are trying to do it too quick. <S> You are drilling really nothing, so it is you jerking the drill weirdly that will break the bit. <A> You'll slide this onto the bit to the exact depth you want, tighten the set screw, then drill. <S> If you're extremely concerned about drilling perfectly perpendicular holes, then use a plunge base on a router with a drilling bit. <S> The plunge base will let you set the exact depth.
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Presuming you can find long enough bits (you can), and presuming you don't want the pointy ends of your drill chuck scraping and boring your fiberglass, you want to use a drill depth stop.
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How much does cement weigh after it has set? I'm looking to make some weight plates for a home gym and so I am planning on using cement to make the plates. But I know that some water will be absorbed and not evaporated when making the cement so it will be hard for me to get the weight that I want. How much heavier is cement after it has set? Do different conditions change this? If I add more or less water will it affect this or will it only take a certain amount of water and then the rest will evaporate? <Q> Several things affect the final weight of concrete. <S> Concrete has many different densities based on its composition. <S> Standard "ready mix" concrete is often engineered for structural strength of 3000psi. <S> At this point, concrete has achieved about 99% of its strength, and will continue to very slowly strengthen over the next few years. <S> At 28 days old, I use a density of .085 pounds per cubic inch (146.9 pounds per cubic foot) when calculating structural load. <S> Concrete is porous. <S> In humid weather, concrete will absorb moisture from the air while in dry weather it will release moisture. <S> Even if you made the "perfect" weight today, it may decrease or increase over time. <S> This is why, when you buy concrete weights, they are encased in plastic. <S> Regarding your question on adding more or less water: <S> Contrary to popular belief, concrete doesn't "dry" to for it to cure. <S> Concrete hardens as a chemical reaction. <S> Adding more water than what is optimal to create the chemical reaction will only weaken the concrete without changing its final weight. <S> As a side note, concrete cracks easily. <S> This is another reason why, when you buy concrete weights, they are encased in plastic. <S> With that not being a reasonable option here, and based on your application, I would strengthen the concrete mesh or fiber. <S> You can order "ready mix" with fiberglass fibers in it, or you can use a large hole mesh. <S> Too small of holes will create a fault line. <S> Aluminum works well because its density (.097) is close to concrete's density. <A> Spend less than ten bucks and get a bag. <S> Weigh it before opening the bag. <S> Then mix up a batch according to the recipe on the bag and pour the mix into some random card board box to let it setup into a large brick. <S> When it is hard and dried out weigh it again. <S> From this it will be easy to extrapolate target weight from the number of bags of pre-mix used. <A> According to my research, about 95% of the water used in the concrete mixing process will be in the final result, so you basically need to directly calculate how much you want the plates to weigh by adding the weight of the concrete and water together. <S> Sites suggest that you'll need about 10% more concrete than calculated just to be safe. <S> Standard reinforced concrete is 150 pounds per cubic foot when dry, but there are "light" versions that may be under 100 pounds per cubic foot, or as heavy as 300 pounds per cubic foot. <S> In other words, if you take 8 pounds of concrete mix and add 2 pounds of water (a quart), you'll end up with approximately 10 pounds of final product (evaporation accounts for about 1.6 oz of weight for a 10 pound block). <S> You should be able to build a couple of small prototypes for just a couple dollars, as other answers suggested, but I thought I'd throw a starting point out there for you so you can have some idea of what to expect. <A> Adding different amounts of water will change the strength of the concrete. <S> So you probably don't want to change that. <A> Almost all the water stays in the concrete. <S> It does not dry out, but combines with the cement in a chemical reaction. <S> So there should be relatively little difference between the weight when wet vs dry.
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Since concrete is not this strong when it is first poured, a standard was created for when to test concrete. I don't know if there is a way to calculate the final weight, but the easiest thing to do is probably to make it heavier than needed, and sand or chip away at it until it is the exact weight you want. You could make a pretty simple test to get almost exact data for your situation. My guess is that you are planning to use the pre-mixed stuff in the bags that you buy from the big box home store. If you want 10 pound plates using a standard concrete mix, the plates should be about 11 inches by 10 inches by 1 inch thick (note: that's a very off-the-back-of-a-napkin estimate, so experiment). This standard calls for the strength to be determined at 28 days old. In any case, this type of weight is not to be dropped from any height.
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what mil thick plastic to hang for dust management I'm planning a chimney demo and planning to hang plastic from floor to ceiling to section where I'm working from the rest of the house. What millimeter thick plastic would be best? I want something thick enough to work but not so heavy I can't tape it up with 2 inch blue painters tape. <Q> I can comment, from tons of experience, that trying to secure the plastic with blue painters tape is highly likely to lead to a great disappointment in performance. <S> Taping up even the thinnest plastic sheeting is so easily torn down by any pulls and tugs on the plastic. <S> Heavier plastic is even worse. <S> My recommendation, if you have to use tape, is to use something a lot more aggressive such as Gorilla Tape. <S> Even better is to drape the top edge of the plastic over a thin board strip such as a 1x2 and prop that up against the ceiling with additional 1x2s that are cut to the proper length to wedge in from floor to ceiling. <S> Then run painters tape along the edge to seal the plastic to the ceiling if needed. <S> Note that professionals use a product that has adjustable spring loaded posts to hold up plastic in the same manner that I described with the 1x2s above. <S> One such system is described here . <A> Any thickness of plastic will stop dust from going through it. <S> If it's far enough away from your work area that you aren't worried about debris falling against it, you can go as thin as you're comfortable with and tape it. <S> If you can't avoid debris falling against it, go with heavier plastic (or preferably a plastic tarp) and use something more substantial to secure it. <A> We use pre-taped painter's plastic sheeting all the time for dust management. <S> It comes on a dispenser roll with a built in cutter (like cling film) and tape on one edge. <S> Simply stick the tape to the ceiling (or wherever) and then pull down the folded thin polythene sheet (we use a 10 foot or 3m version). <S> The polythene is very light so you should put it out of the workspace (better to work anyway) and place something on the bottom edge as pressure (hot/ cool air/doors opening etc. <S> will billow the plastic). <S> It's brilliant for covering up kitchens etc. <S> just tape it to the cornice/coving etc. <S> near the ceiling and then drape it over the whole thing down to the floor. <S> Never had a problem with it pulling paint <S> but then we have a lot of wooden ceilings here <S> so it's not very often an issue... <S> p.s. <S> the film is so thin <S> it seems to hold the dust via static <S> so the clean up is marvellously easy.
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The only reason to use thicker plastic as opposed to thinner is that the thicker plastic holds up a little better to punctures and tears (which can then let some dust through).
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Should I use 2 plumbing traps at either end of a drain extension? I have a washing machine that I am moving 2.5m from it's original spot. A standard p-trap is already in the original place before connecting to the drain, i am tapping into this stand pipe for the extension. Should I add another trap to the other end of the extension next to where I am moving the washer to, or is the original enough? <Q> Double trapping is both a bad idea and a code violation in most jurisdictions - from the International Plumbing Code (my emphasis): 1002.1 Fixture traps. <S> Each plumbing fixture shall be separately trapped by a liquid-seal trap, except as otherwise permitted by this code. <S> The vertical distance from the fixture outlet to the trap weir shall not exceed 24 inches (610 mm), and the horizontal distance shall not exceed 30 inches (610 mm) measured from the centerline of the fixture outlet to the centerline of the inlet of the trap. <S> The height of a clothes washer standpipe above a trap shall conform to Section 802.4. <S> A fixture shall not be double trapped. <S> What will happen when you pour water into it is that it will drain fairly slowly because after moving through the first trap it is compressing the trapped air between the traps. <S> On the other end, in order to go through the second trap, it would need to pull air through the other trap to avoid having to create vacuum. <S> This prevents the pipe between the two fixtures from completely draining. <A> Not only is a single trap enough, using two would be inadvisable. <S> It adds resistance to flow that can cause issues. <S> Depending on your local codes, the trap may need to be moved closer to the washing machine. <A> Since the trap's purpose it to stop sewer gas from backing up into the house then one is all you need per fixture. <S> From the International Residential Code P2706.2 Standpipes <S> Standpipes shall extend not less than 18 inches but not greater than 42 inches above the trap weir. <S> Access shall be provided to standpipe traps and drains for rodding. <S> There seems to be a vertical limit on the standpipe <S> but I can't find a horizontal limit. <S> However, 2 ½" pipe and smaller is supposed to slope ¼" per foot so that may limit you in how far you can go.
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The length of pipe between the two traps will not be open to atmosphere on either side - normally, the vent side is open to atmosphere through the vent, and the fixture side is open to atmosphere through the drain.
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Why does my kitchen faucet's hot water line rattle and lose pressure? When I turn on the kitchen hot water, it heats up, then rattles, and the pressure cuts back by at least 50%. This does not happen with the dishwasher or the cold water. Any suggestions? <Q> If you're only opening it just a bit, then it can be thermal expansion. <S> When the hot water reaches the valve, it can cause some component to lengthen slightly, closing the valve a bit more than it was. <S> I've seen that exact behavior on bathtub valves as well. <S> If the behavior is new, it could be that a washer is staying compressed when cold and is expanding only when it gets warm. <S> If so, replacing the washer may change it up. <S> Does it cut back 50% if you open the valve all the way, or only if you open it a "normal" amount? <A> I would replace the hot shut-off valve below this faucet and the line from there to faucet. <S> If this is the only faucet with this problem, then this is your logical first step. <S> Many of these small shut-off valce are prone to becoming blocked. <A> The other possibility is that a piece of large debris got caught within the faucet & only releases to block the flow with hot water. <S> This may be successfully back-washed out, but usually the faucet has to be replaced. <S> If it's not an older house with screw-retained compression washers (the screw heads can rot out & fall into the house piping to end up in faucets), then debris of this size could indicate interior pipe corrosion or that piping valves & Shut-Offs are built-up with water deposits & both should be operated to scrape-off or break-off any build-up.
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The faucet needs rebuilding with a re-build kit specifically for the faucet, some faucet's rubber seats collapse as they fail & dramatically reduce flow.
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What is a suitable mold material for a concrete bar top? I would like to make an L-shaped concrete bar top (single piece). However, I want to make the corner have a large curve (12-15" radius?). How can I create a mold to accomplish this? What materials should I be using? Will concrete stick to foam? NOTE: I have woodworking tools at my disposal. No metal fabrication please. <Q> 1/4" birch underlayment plywood (Tecply) should take that bend even without kerfs, moisture or heat. <S> I'd probably double or triple it (without fastening together) for stiffness. <S> Build your form out of lumber, then either rabbet the lumber for the plywood to achieve a flush joint, or lay plywood all the way down the 2 sides adjacent to the bend. <A> Any type of thin plywood will do. <S> Cut it into 6 inch strips and it bends easier. <S> You might need two layers. <S> Intalls the strips inside your frame <S> , don't use the strips as your frame. <A> Laminated MDF is the typical form material (aka, prefab shelf boards). <S> You can usually get the laminate in strips (for backsplashes and edge-banding counter tops). <S> I'd make the square parts of the form, then use several layers of the edge banding laminate to create your curve.
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Create a curve template out of plywood, then glue the laminate around the curve.
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How can I attach pony wall to surface of platform and will it be strong enough against lateral forces? I have a loft area to which I want to add a pony wall for safety. My plan is to drywall its inside and outside faces, all the way down across the beam. Can I built it on the surface of the platform safely? I would prefer to avoid attaching the posts to the front of the beam because it would make drywalling more difficult, and I want to use the posts located at the corner as an anchor for some storage that should all appear flush. The beam is 5 1/8" wide so putting it inside the beam, against a joist, leaves too large a distance on the outside edge. Here are some researched suggestions: Built pony wall and lag-bolt the corner post through an angle bracket, down through the pony wall's bottom plate and into the beam. Can I lag-bolt 4x4 posts to a 2x4 bottom plate from the bottom, which is then lag bolted through the subfloor and into the beam? Extend plywood down the pony-wall onto the beam to provide strength across the entire face without adding too much thickness. Use a thicker wall - perhaps cabinets - so there is more depth to anchor down. Any other ideas? <Q> I'd build the wall in such a way that the entire thing acts as a post: <S> Use 3-1/2" or 4" construction screws instead of nails at all joints <S> Use construction adhesive at all joints <S> This configuration will be as stiff and strong as it would be if you used occasional steel bracing. <S> Any right angles or other wall connections will enhance strength. <A> I'm not a pro <S> It has a right angle in it <S> so the resistance to it being torqued is low. <S> The other end is attached to the wall. <S> I would suggest that you attach it the same way that the 2nd floor is attached to the first floor in a standard platform built house. <S> I think these are just nailed to the skin of the subfloor, with 2-4 nails per stud cavity. <S> If you are feeling paranoid, use 3.5" screws and align them with the joists below. <A> We do pony walls all the time. <S> You have a rather easy one because you have a wall to attach to and it is relatively short. <S> Just some things I would do here. <S> first is I would use 2x6 material. <S> There is a HUGE difference between 2x4s and 2x6s for pony walls. <S> Night and day. <S> I only do 2x4 if I have something to attach to on each side. <S> second I would make sure the short wall goes to the corner. <S> Meaning the lateral force of the longer wall would be stabilized better on the non-wall side. <S> third I would stagger bolts every foot or less. <S> The bolts would be set one inch from outside <S> and then the next one inch from the inside. <S> Having the bolts in this pattern basically makes it impossible to tip. <S> and obviously you are anchoring into the wall 4-5 times.
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Use screws and adhesive to mount the bottom plate to the floor framing
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Identify type of circuit breaker My house came with a main panel that supports this type of circuit breaker. However, I am unable to find that type at the store and the breaker doesn't say what type it is. I thought it might be CH (as it's certainly thinner than BR) but it's not. Here are its comparisons with CH (on the right and below, respectively): Can you identify it so I know what to search for to get new ones? <Q> I can see a SquareD logo on the side, and the red indicator window on the front makes it look like a Square D QO 20-Amp Single-Pole Circuit Breaker , model <S> #QO120CP: <S> The overall shape of the breaker and orientation of the contacts on the back seem to match your breaker. <A> These are ridiculously common <S> -- just about every big-box store and electrical supply house will have them, as well as industrial MRO suppliers and even small hardware stores. <S> The other possibilities can be ruled out as follows: <S> Eaton's CH fits a similar 3/4" form factor, but obviously would have different manufacturer nomenclature on it! <S> Square-D HOM (Homeline) breakers appear similar, but fit a 1" wide form factor, and often lack the red window on the front <S> (Square-D calls the feature Visi-Trip™). <A> The first picture is a Square D Type QO <S> This will not interchange with any other brand but Eaton and Siemens have classified clones that will fit. <S> Stay with the Square D. <S> The second picture is a Cutler Hammer type CH (now called CHF). <S> Excellent quality and no other brand will fit.
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You have a Square-D Type QO (3/4" wide) breaker there.
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Do I need to replace water damage or just let it dry out? I had a water leak under my kitchen sink. It happened pretty slowly over the course of perhaps 8 weeks. The bottom of the cupboard was saturated and about 6 " up the sides of the same cupboard unit. Also, I have old wood floors and some of the floorboards (maybe 8" in front and 2' off to one side) are a little tweaked. Looks like they separated a little and curled some. If the aesthetics of the damage are something I can live with, can I just set up a dehumidifier and fan and dry the whole are out really well or is that inviting trouble in the form of mold or something. I'm wondering about avoiding the time, cost, and trouble of pulling out cupboards, pulling up floors, etc. Mold is our main concern and I guess I'm wondering if mold is a problem in persistently wet areas or if a single incident can spark a mold infestation that self-perpetuates. <Q> Jeremy, I would strongly suggest you use a Multimeter to measure the water content in your wood flooring, and other materials around the sink. <S> Please view this link to a suggested meter you can purchase, it has prongs so that you may penetrate into the wood with minimum damage and get a reading from the inside, as water can stay contained withing the wood. <S> If the leak was dried within 48 hours and you have a water content less than 16% on your wood and other damaged materials, then you should be safe. <S> If the leak was not dried withing 48 hours, or the water content in the wood is higher than 16% <S> , I would strongly suggest you hire a air quality inspector, he can take a sample from your kitchen air, and tell you if you have elevated amounts of spores indoors, and if you have mold species that can affect your health. <S> I would make it a priority to ensure moisture is not higher than 60% throughout the house as this can trigger mold to grow. <S> Some species are known to stay dormant for 48 hours and sprout airborne, which can cause further damage to the A/C system. <S> It is true that mold is in every environment but elevated amounts of certain species such as aspergillus penicillium, or stachybotrys can cause allergies or infections to your respiratory system. <S> I am a professional mold remediator, hope my advice is of help. <A> If the wood is stable (some particle board swells and falls apart) once dry wipe down with hydrogen peroxide to kill any mold spores. <S> Hydrogen peroxide on the floor boards may slightly bleach the wood if left on very long but will take care of mold spores without the smell of bleach. <S> Bleach can also be used but will need to be diluted and will smell bad for quite a while. <A> Mold spores are everywhere and on everything, the only reason mold doesn't grow on everything is that most surfaces are too dry for the mould to grow. <S> A damp, organic surface is just what mold needs to grow. <S> If you have taken care of the leak, and thoroughly dried the area, there should be minimal risk that mold will continue to subsist in that location, barring a damp basement or crawlspace below.
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Also if you have access to a FLIR infrared camera, this can help you detect if there is moisture in the drywall, or wood frame behind the sink.
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