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Should Caulk be used around vinyl windows I purchased a new home last year and all the windows installed are vinyl. My previous home built in 1999 had wooden windows. My question is are all the exterior windows needing to be caulked? I know with wooden windows that's a given. I had a lot of trouble with water damage on my old home and I don't really want to experience that again. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! <Q> You don't have to caulk something just because you normally caulk it. <S> There is a reason why everything is done and learning this will save you time and money. <S> Since you've had the home for a year already, I'd guess that you know if water leaks in or if you can feel drafts near them? <S> If so, caulk it. <S> Like you said, it'll save you from the experience down the road, but it might not be needed. <S> VINYL WINDOWS AND VINYL SIDING Vinyl windows, if installed correctly shouldn’t need to be caulked in too many places. <S> Caulking on the interior is mainly for aesthetics. <S> You will caulk where the drywall meets the frame or the casing meets the frame. <S> If it was installed correctly there shouldn’t be a draft coming from this area. <S> WOOD WINDOWS WITH WOOD <S> SIDING <S> These windows require a lot more maintenance. <S> If caulking after painting or if you have natural wood, you use a clear caulk. <S> If caulking before painting you should use paintable caulk rated for exterior use. <S> REPLACEMENT WINDOWS Replacement windows are installed in existing wood frames. <S> The windows come as a unit and should be caulked properly when installed. <S> In situations with replacement windows, you have the area between the new window and the existing frame to keep caulk maintained as well as around any old trim. <S> http://www.handyguyspodcast.com/839/episode-94-caulking-windows/ <A> There is no difference between wood or vinyl. <S> You insulate and caulk windows for insulation and to provide an airflow barrier. <S> Almost all windows require caulking from the outside. <S> If they weren't fitted and insulated well they may need caulk inside and out. <S> Unless the window was sealed with a good amount of spray foam after (and most of the time this will receded over time) they will have air gaps. <S> You would logically caulk anywhere where air is coming in. <S> An easy test is to take your garden variety leaf blow and blow at each window while someone inside checks for any airflow caused by blower. <A> Caulking will prevent insects from finding their way into your home through the window-siding seam. <S> Water entry from leaky seam may also not be apparent for years.... <S> until you notice the wall bulging in and out during windy days, when lintels and braces have rotted from moisture rot. <S> $20 worth of caulk will save you a lot of trouble. <A> We use to caulk all sides of all windows. <S> We even had details showing how to "caulk" and "back caulk" underlayment (building paper) onto the window or door frame. <S> Now, two things have changed: 1) the use of peel-and-stick tape, and 2) understanding that moisture that gets "in" needs a way "out". <S> For new installations, peel-and-stick tape (you can find it in 3" or 4" widths) makes an easy way to make a positive seal against air AND moisture on all sides of the window. <S> However, caulking is still required, but only on the jambs and sill. <S> The industry's new position is that the moisture that gets behind the siding <S> (we know all siding "leaks" <S> that's why we install a moisture barrier) needs a "path" to escape. <S> So now we spec the siding is to be installed on a moisture barrier with a small vertical groove that holds the siding out from the wall (about 1/16") and allows water to run down and out of the wall. <S> This keeps the siding from rotting from the back side. <S> The jambs and sill are caulked to seal up joints and keep the space as dry as possible. <S> However, no caulking is applied at the head so any moisture accumulated above the window has a place to escape, (run out.) <S> To prevent air infiltration, we seal all edges of the moisture barrier, (I.e.: wall-to-Soffit, outlets, etc.) <S> For existing windows, we use the same method, except we will add a piece of head flashing and seal it to the moisture barrier with peel-and-stick tape. <S> (Usually requires removing some siding...not easy.) <S> Remember, all caulking has a life expectancy. <S> So, plan on some re-caulking in the future.
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You can use some painters caulk on the inside where the window meets the casing or the drywall. If you have a reasonable doubt that they might not be installed correctly and could lead to water problems, go ahead and do it. All gaps should be re-caulked.
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Can I add more insulation to my attic? I currently have pink fiberglass bats in the attic. I wanted to add blown in insulation. My attic space is a bit unique. I'm used to a moderate sized attic that you can access. This attic has no access. There might be 1 - 2 feet of space between the ceiling and roof decking. The one space I have to access any part of the attic is around the chimney. It isn't boarded up and I can shimmy straight up the side of the chimney to the attic. That's how I know it's only about 1 - 2ft of attic space. I've read about standard insulation installation techniques such as: Not to push the insulation up against the decking or moisture will develop. Proper roof ventilation to avoid moisture build up. There are no attic vents on the side. No soffit, no soffit vents. The decking just comes straight off the house. The only ventilation is a ridge vent. I was going to cut into the ceiling and blow insulation in until the entire space was filled. I'm afraid of trapping moisture, rotting the decking and creating a breeding ground for mold. With a roof/attic system like mine, is it OK to just fill the attic with insulation or am I stuck at certain level of insulation? How much space must be between the decking and insulation? <Q> Based on your picture and your description, you have what is known as a cathedral ceiling. <S> The "1-2 feet of space <S> " you mention leads me to believe that it's built with parallel chord trusses rather than solid rafters. <S> Can you post a picture? <S> Regardless, like most cathedral ceilings, yours seems to be insulated insufficiently and built incorrectly (ridge vents but <S> no soffits vents? <S> WTF?). <S> Right now your cathedral ceiling is semi-ventilated. <S> If there is a way to add soffit vents, they should be added so that the ridge vent can actually do its job. <S> This will increase the durability of the assembly substantially if you live in a non-desert climate. <S> How high the gap must be depends on the steepness of the roof. <S> A very steep roof might be able to get away with a gap of only a few inches under the roof sheathing. <S> It sounds like your roof has a shallower pitch, so 1-2 feet may be necessary. <S> The only safe and practical way to increase the insulation of your ceiling is to transform it into an un-ventilated ceiling. <S> Step one is to remove the ridge vent. <S> Step two is to either apply spray foam (open or closed cell; minimum 3" for closed cell or 6" for open cell) under the roof sheathing, or else remove the roofing material and then apply rigid foam insulation boards over the sheathing, usually 4"+ of polyiso. <S> Step three is to fill the entire cavity under the foam or sheathing with as much as you want of whatever you want. <S> Go wild stuffing as much insulation in there as you want. <S> Step four is to make your ceiling as airtight as possible. <S> Remove all can lights or replace them with LED models that have an airtight fixture, and caulk everything. <S> You don't want inside air getting into your now-unvented roof. <S> The spray foam approach is likely to be more expensive, especially considering the access problems you mentioned, but does not require a re-roof; the rigid foam approach is better for the environment, will give you an ultimately higher level of insulation, and may be cheaper, but doesn't make sense if your roofing material is in perfect shape. <A> The key question is whether you'll see a benefit from doing so. <S> In the winter, you may see better insulation from full cavities. <S> In the summer, you're going to have a very hot attic due to poor airflow. <S> The cost to cool the home in summer may outweigh the savings in winter. <S> Moisture accumulation may also be a concern, though condensation is less when there's not much empty airspace. <A> From your diagram and description, it seems the ridge vent allows cold or hot air to flow below the insulation. <S> In that case, the insulation will have little effect. <S> Also, since there are no vents on the ends of the attic, the ridge vent will be somewhat ineffective, since there is no easy path for the air to flow. <S> You might put in vents at the ends of the attic and move the insulation from attached to the roof to lying on the attic floor, with the vapor barrier closest to the floor of the attic (under the insulation). <S> Also, check to see that there are no gaps that let warm air escape from the inside of the house into the attic.
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If you take this approach and build a fully-vented cathedral ceiling, you cannot fill up the extra space that you see with more insulation; the ventilation gap is critically important.
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Duct sizing impact on flow We have a ranch with a wood fireplace in the living room. It's fantastic at heating the main living area, but the bedrooms down the hall get left in the cold. I'm going to install insulated flexible ductwork in the attic, with a blower near the inlet (red), with outlets in each room. The initial duct will be 10", with 6" to each room. This is roughly to scale, about 24' between the inlet and 2 aligned outlets. Fireplace is to the left: I can either run 10" to a 3-way manifold, and take 6" runs from there. Or I can run 10" to an 8"/6" splitter, take one 6" off there, then run the 8" to a 2-way 6" splitter, and take the remaining 6" off there. The first is preferable, as I'll get more efficient use of the duct, which comes in 25' sections. Will I see a noticeable difference in airflow one way or the other? If it matters, the lower-right bedroom is the master, and it's fine if airflow is a little less there (other 2 are kids' rooms, which we want a bit warmer). <Q> In either case you have a 10" duct as the bottleneck in the trunk line. <S> I'd go with Plan A. <S> Perhaps a more important question: Is the inlet attached to the fireplace somehow? <S> You'll probably be disappointed if you just pull air from one room to another. <S> The differential would be so small that you won't see much benefit. <S> In fact, the air movement may make those rooms actually feel cooler. <A> Your goal is or should be to sip the living room's heat & not gulp it to leave the living room, kitchen or bath(s) cold. <A> Will I see a noticeable difference in airflow one way or the other? <S> The fan creates the flow according to the amount of resistance in the ductwork and the fan's CFM rating. <S> If your setups are approximately the same the flow will be the approximately same. <S> Doing the math on 3x6 vs an 8 and a 6. <S> I think the 3x6 would have less resistance and therefore more flow overall. <S> Just a guess though. <S> The longer runs have more resistance and therefore the farthest bedroom will get the least and the 2nd bedroom less flow than the first on the line. <S> So, from the point where you split the flow, the longer runs will receive less flow because they have more resistance. <S> The other thing to consider is the higher the flow <S> the louder the velocity noise from the moving air. <S> I don't know what the number is for air but in a hydronic heating system they try to keep it less than 4 ft/sec and size the pipe accordingly. <S> Flow and pressure works similar in pneumatics, hydraulics, and electricity. <S> Good luck with your project!
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Expanding it downstream won't get you much in terms of flow. Your 10" is fine as long as it's capped a couple or few feet after the last branch at the end so it can be pressurized for even distribution. I'd take the 6" branches down to 4" with a very small blower or standard fan doing all of the work. Other than all that work, you may find that your blower or fan by itself mounted to the ceiling at the head of the hallway will make the difference...unless you have snorers, screamers & talkers. However, the resistance of each 6 inch run will depend on its length.
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How do I divert rain water that collects between two shed structures? I have a pvc hoop shed that sits against the rear of my main resin storage shed. The rainwater flows down the taut tarp of the hoop shed & gets into the main shed floor. What's the best method to divert the water away? Resin storage shed Hoop Shed: (older pic that still shows how hoop shed is flush to resin shed on one side and deer fencing on the other) <Q> i would wedge a length of plastic gutter on a slight slope between the 2 sheds , making a small gap and encouraging the water to run into the gutter and into a down pipe directing it away from both sheds. <S> You may have to experiment a little for the height of this <A> Since, you already have one tarp, why not have 2? <S> Put another tarp over the gap by screwing the new tarp to the shed's sides after running over the ridge. <S> Then, run it down the right side of hoops where you can wire tie it without puncturing the existing tarp. <S> Of course, you could get a bigger tarp. <S> Run it over the ridge & even all the way down the shed sides & then repeat what you did on the hoops. <S> Use the original tarp somewhere else, as a floor &/or doors for the hoop structure. <S> Or. <S> string it up to those posts on your right to double your home's size... <S> kidding, who would live under a tarp when they have a shed. <S> Which, leads me to. <A> Moving either shed makes the most sense to me. <S> Both don't look that hard to move. <S> If you don't want to do that maybe try bending a piece of aluminum on a brake and flash it against the shed and cut it under the blue tarp to catch the water. <S> I would move one or the other shed.
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Get or make a bigger shed.
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Can I use extra wire from two separate cables to add a washing machine in a garage? I have two existing 12/3 NM-B cables that are used to connect two different circuits, which are distributed from a junction box close to the location I want to add a washing machine. The washing machine requires 12/2 wire, and a 20A fuse. Each of these existing 12/3 cables has a spare red wire. Can I use one of these red wires as neutral, and the other as load to the 20A fuse? Should I pull a new cable instead? <Q> You should definitely pull a new cable for the washing machine circuit. <S> Problems with your solution <S> You can't use a red wire as a neutral (See NEC 200.6(A)). <S> Circuit conductors (wires) must be contained in the same " raceway, auxiliary gutter, cable tray, cablebus assembly, trench, cable, or cord " (See NEC 300.3(B)). <S> You have not clearly described where all the wires in the junction box come from/go to, or what else is on those circuits. <S> So there's no way to know for sure if it's possible to use them to power the washing machine. <S> (See NEC 210.11(C)(2)). <S> Laundry outlets must be GFCI protected (See NEC 210.8(A)(10)). <A> This would be called a multi wire branch circuit. <S> The circuit breaker for the red and black wires must be on adjacent circuit breakers for it to be legal. <S> This is legal because 1 wire is on L1 and 1 wire is on L2 the return current on the white is 180 out of phase so if there were a big load on both wires the total would always be below the 20A rating in this <S> case.(When <S> I say adjacent breakers <S> I mean full size not “split” or double breakers in 1 space). <S> Let me be more specific you have to use the neutral and ground with the 12-3 with the black and red on adjacent breakers. <S> I thought I had explained this but with minus it must not have been clear now it should be. <A> Maybe you CAN do this. <S> You cannot send current up one cable and down another. <S> Wires are grouped for a reason, so magnetic fields cancel out. <S> Anything inside a loop of wire becomes the core of a toroid, which is much more powerful than you think, especially if there is any metal inside. <S> Are you saying both 12/3’s power a circuit on their black wire, and the red wires are used for nothing? <S> Specifically, there must be a site near the washing machine where a crossover can be run, and one of them must serve no loads before <S> that site - let's call that cable B. First, bone up on what a multi-wire branch circuit is (MWBC). <S> Critics, bear with me! <S> Cable A becomes a MWBC. <S> Its black wire serves the loads already on it. <S> Its red wire serves cable B past the washer. <S> The downstream side crosses over to cable A, and its black wire is now fed by cable A's red wire. <S> Its neutral and ground tie <S> to cable A's. <S> Circuit A is now an MWBC feeding cables A and B. <S> At the panel, Cable A's red and black must go into a 2-pole breaker, or 2 singles tied with an approved handle tie. <S> This will force them to be on opposite poles. <S> If you use GCFI it must be a 2-pole GFCI. <S> Circuit BB now feeds the washer receptacle exclusively, as required by code. <S> You will almost certainly need to extend one or both cables to make this work. <S> This is allowed, as long as the splices are inside a junction box and a sensible amount of excess lead is available. <S> Send your house's electrician a gift basket for spending the extra $5 to put in extra wire.
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The upstream side (the homerun, let's call it cable BB now) goes from the service panel to the washing machine site. Cable B is cut at a carefully chosen place that leaves enough wire to do this: The red black also need to be identified so the wiring doesn’t get separated at a later date as that would undersize your neutral. Hmm, there might be a way to do this, depending on what else they go to. Laundry branch circuits are not allowed to have any other outlets
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Drywall screws snap off when trying to fix squeaky subfloor I am using 1 1/2 drywall screws from the top of the floor, to stop the squeak. Using screw gun and collated screws. The gun is snapping the heads off the screws, is this OK? And will it stop the squeaking with the heads broken off? There is flooring going down afterwards, so screw head indention is not an issue. Thanks <Q> It won't likely cause a problem, and it may resolve the squeak. <S> Drywall screws are very hard and somewhat brittle to keep them from stripping during install. <S> That said, I'd consider those screws too small. <S> You only have 3/4" remaining after you go through the subfloor (at most). <S> Also, you won't be able to easily remove them later if you need to. <S> I'd use 2-1/2" construction (gold) screws from a good manufacturer <S> (cheap screws are cheap) instead. <A> Drywall screws are known for being brittle and will frequently snap. <S> You could also look into a specialized system for this. <S> Depending on what part of the floor-system is causing your squeak, a fully-threaded screw probably won't help. <A> I'm not endorsing a specific product, but why don't you pick up a box of cement board or "hardibacker" screws, or deck screws for that matter. <S> I've had an extremely squeaky floor <S> become dead silent after screwing down cement board and tiling a floor. <S> Which, I suppose, isn't surprising. <S> But my point is that there are screws essentially made for this purpose, and drywall screws don't really fit that description.
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It's unlikely that you'll snap the heads off, and while the broken drywall screws might stop the squeaking, at least for a while, I would think that a good solid screw head pinning the boards down would stand a better chance of solving the problem long-term. For that reason, they're not ideal for your current purposes. You should look for a construction-grade or even better a deck-grade screw. They aren't recommended for any kind of wood work or construction for this reason.
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Why does water in the toilet bowl empty? Water in the toilet bowl is emptying after a minute. I just changed to a higher toilet (16.75) for an elderly resident. I have three other toilets without this problem. I have tried adjusting water in tank and have checked for leaks. How can I fix this? <Q> The water in the toilet seeks the level of the highest level of the high level of the trap, so if you raise the toilet bowl you must raise the trap the same distance. <S> The trap is the curly, s-shaped part of the drain between the exit tube of the bowl and the wall. <S> The highest level of the trap follows the line of bottom of the inner circumference of the trap where the the direction of the flushing water is parallel to the trap, as it is coming out of the climb from the bottom of the trap. <S> It could also be a vacuum in the drain sucking the fluid back into the drain if there is not a vent pipe running vertically from the drain to the roof to equalize the presscure. <S> I am not a plumber nor an engineer but a do it yourself person with a little math understanding from American public schools and a very basic, traditional grasp of physical science from experience and from the instruction of a peculiarly motivated chemistry professor at Bakersfield College, Ca USA. <A> You are probably missing a vent in the drain line. <S> The vents prevents the sewer line from acting as a siphon and emptying the bowl. <S> Modern toilets use the inside of the bowl as a siphon to pull the waste down, but the siphon must be broken at the exit of the bowl. <S> Older toilets relied on the force and pressure of the incoming water to push waste down, they did not make a good siphon seal. <A> The refill hose provides water to refill the bowl after the flapper valve has shut. <S> It typically sprays into the tank overflow tube but can also be integrated into the flush mechanism. <S> If the bowl is properly refilling after a flush, you should suspect a vent problem. <S> If the toilet trap is siphoning dry, probably some sink traps are too. <S> That lets nasty and actually toxic gasses into your house, which you might smell around the sink. <S> If you hear a gurgle at the finish of the sink draining a lot of water (like a mini toilet flush), your vent is almost surely blocked. <S> Vent pipes are typically seen on rooftops and can be cleared with a sewer snake or garden hose hydrojet. <S> Rarely, a device called an air admittance valve (AAV) is used in place of a rooftop vent, and you may need a contractor to help fix that if it's not accessible.
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Either your bowl refill hose is disconnected or the sewer vent is obstructed.
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Wood flooring and Heavy Wheel Chair We are having a power chair friendly house built in the spring. Because carpet has to be glued to the sub-floor to prevent bumps and wrinkles, we would prefer wood floors. (We like them better anyway.) We've been thinking about bamboo flooring. How well does it hold up? Can it be sanded and refinished? Approximately how long should it last under these conditions? The power chair is used inside and out, so it picks up pebbles, dirt, etc. Another question: Is there a matting that can be used to remove some of the outside debris from the wheels? <Q> Just dealing with the matting question, I would assume regular matting would be ok <S> , you will just need a lot of it. <S> Assuming you will have one, I would keep the outside ramp clean, then have a commercial-quality welcome mat outside the door, and another two inside. <S> (Like, the 3'x5' or so ones. <S> Your goal is that the wheels have to make at least 1 complete revolution before leaving the mats.) <S> It may also be prudent (depending on your house) to have a different flooring for the area around the door, designed for higher wear. <A> Bamboo's a good choice. <S> However there needs to be a much larger (1 to 2-inches) shrink & expand perimeter gap & subsequent baseboard shoe molding. <S> It moves quite a lot. <S> If there's any ramp, even just a threshold one, then the best choice would be to go to a grating surface rather than the solid or plank options. <S> Debris will then be handled outside. <S> If not, then the below mat is in the Home Improvement stores (Home Depot's website in this case) and is Cast Aluminum. <S> Expensive & small, but 2 or three could be welded or hinged together to catch & hold debris. <A> Consult the wheelchair user,they could have a preference for a good reason. <S> A Wheelchair does not mean mindless,sorry to be blunt <S> but I use a wheelchair and know how it is. <S> I Prefer carpet incase I fall transfering <S> ,it hurts less.hope <S> this helps Steve uk engineer.
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Or, of course any Open Grid type of matting, but many of those are soft rubber & might be difficult to traverse. There is disagreement here,what you think is best for you.occupational therapist reccomends wood,laminate for easy clean,I Prefer carpet its softer and warmer.
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How to determine the correct driver bit for screws? I am going to use this screw to join 2x4s together. How can I select the correct bit size for this screw? Product image from homedepot.com (linked above) <Q> That's basically a #2 PSD2-2 drive. <S> It's designed for relatively high torque driving that would make a normal Phillips drive cam out while minimizing the chance of stripping that you'd have with a square drive. <S> Wild (and cynical) speculation, but I'm guessing the manufacturer calls it "Unidrive" because Phillips holds a patent on it. <S> : <S> Image courtesy of fastenal.com <S> They're common enough that most of the big-box home improvement stores carry them, but oddly uncommon enough that a lot of the time the screw manufacturer will sometimes include one in the box. <A> A #2 Philips or #2 Robertson (square drive) will do the job. <S> Source: <S> Spax faq #2: <S> Q) <S> What does Unidrive mean? <S> A) Unidrive is a( Phillips/Square combo) drive system for the SPAX fastener. <S> The user has the option of either using a Phillips drive bit or a square drive bit to install the SPAX fastener. <S> http://www.spax.us/faqs.html <A> If you have a micrometer, you can measure the inside diameter of the screw; that's the size bit (or a bit smaller) that you want to use to drill your pilot hole. <S> If not, you can hold it up against a tape measure and guesstimate that diameter. <S> It doesn't have to be perfect, but you definitely do not want to drill a pilot hole <S> the same diameter has the outside diameter of the screw. <A> I've been using exactly the same type of screws as shown in the OP. <S> #2 Robertson worked, but #2 Phillips did not. <S> In the latter case, both the Phillips bit (I use Wera Impaktor) and the screw head were stripped. <S> I have since switched to the dedicated bit made by SPAX and carried by HD. <S> To find it, go to HD.com and search for "unidrive bit". <S> You can also find similar bits at amazon by searching "Sq/Phillips Combination Power Screwdriver Bit".
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I'd get a #2 PSD2-2 driver (also called Phillips-Square drive, etc.)
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Should I insulate the garage in the home I'm having built? I am an amateur woodworker and am having a new home built. My part-time workshop will be in the garage. Where I live (central Maryland), the winters are often cold (below freezing) and occasionally much colder (+10F/-10C and below). My current home has no insulation in the garage walls or attic, so I use an electric space heater, which is almost useless when it's really cold. I am considering having the garage in the new home insulated, since it will be much easier to do before the drywall is up. The builder is using R-20 for the exterior walls of the living spaces, but I don't need it to be insulated enough so that I can live there, I just don't want my fingers to freeze off! I am still planning on using the space heater. The entire house will have Tyvek housewrap, including the garage (whether I choose to insulate it or not). My question is: what level of insulation should I request? The builder wants to know what level of insulation I want before they give me a quote on the price (and I can determine if it's worth it). Do I also need to have the garage door and attic insulated to see any benefit, or can I just get by with the walls? (The walls are the critical part, since I can easily add insulation to the attic and door after the fact). A secondary question would be: is it worth it at all? One possible answer is to do nothing and just wait for warmer weather -- it's a hobby, not a profession. UPDATE: I've asked the builder for the pricing for R-15 in the walls (can't do R-20, since the garage is framed with 2x4s, not 2x6s) and blown insulation in the attic. Still waiting to hear back from them. UPDATE 2: The builder has quoted me over US$1400 to insulate it. Yeah, that's only $100/year, but I think I'll just wear an extra sweater, because it's not worth that much to me. <Q> As you have discovered, it is basically impossible to heat an uninsulated structure with just a little space heater. <S> My garage is insulated but unheated and it is usually a good 10 or 20 ºF warmer than outside temps in the winter. <S> The difference between a car that is 20 ºF and one that is 40 ºF in the morning is considerable. <S> Mine also stays very cool in the summer, so I think the insulation will help you there, not hurt you. <S> (I bet insulating the roof/attic probably makes the biggest difference there.) <A> I would insulate it. <S> Insulation is a thermal barrier; it impedes the transfer of thermal energy from one side of the insulation to the other. <S> This means if it is warmer inside the garage than outside the house, insulation will keep it warmer longer because heat will escape more slowly due to the insulation. <S> If it is cooler inside the garage than it is outside, insulation will keep it cooler longer because heat from outside will infiltrate the garage more slowly. <S> Just insulating the walls won't make your garage an icebox in the summer, but nobody here is suggesting that <S> , right? <S> ;-) <S> As the other current answer suggests, a car stored in an insulated garage will be noticeably warmer than the same car in an uninsulated garage, both because more of the thermal energy released from the cooling car will remain inside the insulated garage overnight, and because what little heat escapes from the wall of the living area into the garage will also be retained longer. <S> Also, if you open the window in your garage overnight in the summer, then close it in the morning, the garage will remain cooler longer into the day because of the insulation. <S> I really don't see any downside unless it's just off-the-charts expensive. <S> On the other hand, insulating a garage isn't a requirement for the garage to serve its primary function of keeping your cars, tools and off-season picnic gear dry. <S> ;-) <A> Insulation will help a bit to keep it warmer. <S> A lot warmer if your garage door is insulated too. <S> On the flip side, it will be a warmer in the summer as the insulation will keep heat in then too. <S> The garage to house should be insulated plus the garage to attic... <S> which means you are talking about insulating 2 walls at most (one could be attached to house too). <S> This is $50 in material and $50 in labor <S> (insulation will be up with a stapler in 10 mins - cost more time to buy it). <S> Not sure if that is what you are being quoted <S> but it is kind of obvious if you want to work in your garage in the winter <S> its probably worth doing for $100. <A> We have insulation on our garage as well as heating and cooling. <S> For us, it was a very good decision because we have a large garage that provides a large quantity of relatively climate controlled storage <S> and we don't have a basement, so <S> it was great, particularly because we are in upstate NY where it can get sub-zero at night. <S> Even unheated/cooled, it is going to provide extra insulation for that side of the house from the outside since it will act as a buffer space. <S> You also have the impact on the wear and tear on the car and battery from having someplace to warm up and avoid the coldest times of night. <S> Is it worth $1400, <S> that's really up to you. <S> In the grand scheme of a house, $1400 isn't much, but it also depends on how much space you need and how big the garage is and how cold it gets where you are.
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Also if you are going to be keeping cars in the garage as well, having an insulated garage will keep it warmer even if you don't heat it. I would insulate it unless the cost is exorbitant.
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Allowing basement floor to breathe I'm working on remodeling a basement and the plan for now is to install a subfloor (XPS rigid insulation and plywood on top of that). For the actual floor, I was thinking of using vinyl planks that click together to form a floor. A contractor I hired to help me suggested that perhaps vinyl is not the best solution for this for the following reason: since some moisture will come up through the concrete floor, the vinyl would function as a vapor barrier and the plywood would soak it up, and rot. He suggested that I put in a wood floor in instead. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Is this the correct way to go? What other kinds of materials could I use on the floor to keep things "breathable"? I don't get water in the basement. I just had drain tiles installed along w/ a sump pump. The basement is only half underground too (4 ft). <Q> Honestly if you have a contractor talking about basement flooring in a basement were there is a fear of moisture I would fire him on the spot if he mentioned installing real wood floors. <S> I see a bad wood install in a basement a couple times a year. <S> I can't tell you the last time I saw a good wood install in a basement. <S> XPS and plywood can work in a lot of cases. <S> For real vinyl click lock - the good kind that is thick and pure rubber... we slap this right down on the concrete with no barrier per manufacturers instructions. <S> If you give me a link to the flooring you are getting I can get more specific. <A> The other answers hit the nail on the head--wood floors in basements or anywhere subject to moisture <S> is generally a bad idea. <S> I just wanted to add one more vinyl floor variant that you should consider for a basement installation if you are already considering a click-lock floor. <S> I highly recommend loose lay vinyl tile. <S> It is similar to click-lock vinyl flooring but has one key advantage: <S> You just lay down the planks (no adhesive required)and can lift them up at any point over the life of the floor. <S> Though vinyl is very durable, this feature is very handy <S> should you ever need to replace a tile or two as you don't have to dismantle the whole floor. <S> Also, while both click-lock and loose lay are typically both very moisture resistant or waterproof, if you do have water trouble in the future, you can lift up the planks in the areas where some water has collected to let the floor air dry. <S> Same goes for spilt milk, rather than getting it permanently wedged in the seams and spoiling, you can pick up the planks and clean both the planks and the floor underneath. <A> Wood doesn't breathe at any rate I'd consider adequate. <S> If there's moisture present, it's probably going to have problems itself. <S> I'd put down heavy polyethylene sheeting under your foam. <S> It's probably a good idea regardless of your flooring choice.
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However most of the time we carpet over this type of install. To note, a lot of commercial spaces have started to use loose lay vinyl flooring for the same reasons. Even in a basement with no "water" problems the humidity levels can reek havoc on wood and warp it.
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How to make a toilet seat hinge more stiff? The upstairs toilet in our house has a gender-specific problem: the seat won't stay up without being held up. This is because the lid of the cistern sticks out a bit too much, so that the seat's centre of gravity is slightly on the wrong side of the hinge. I already replaced the seat when we moved in, it didn't make any difference: basically, the holes in the toilet where you attach the seat are a bit too far back. I'm not going to try to fix this (very annoying, only for me) problem by replacing the toilet, or just the cistern. But, what would work, if it's possible, is to make the seat a bit more stiff, ie resistant to movement. It's only just on the wrong side of the vertical, so that if the hinge was a bit stiffer, i believe it would stay up by itself, without being resistant to movement in general (obviously it still needs to be lowerable so gluing it in a fixed position isn't an option). There's no way to adjust the hinge, ie no screws to tighten, and it can't be taken apart without breaking it. So what i'm after is some sort of "anti lubricant" that i can put into the hinge. The hinge (on each side) consists of metal (or perhaps chrome-plated plastic) cylinders, which butt up against each other, similar to in this photo: If i do put an "anti-lubricant" in there, it's going to have to be something that will be able to get into the tiny space between the rotating parts of the hinge. Does anyone know of such a substance? Or have any other solutions? thanks, Max EDIT: I have a 1 year old running around, so any solutions need to be child-friendly: that means that if the solution uses magnets, for example, the magnets need to be very hard to swallow. EDIT2: i wanted to put a photo up of my solution, which was suggested by @handyman in the correct answer below: Before on the right, and after on the left. Basically i unscrewed the seat and lid, loosened the discs that hold the hinges and rotated each one 180 degrees. Fortunately i was able to rotate the vertical posts that hold the actual hinges as well, to keep the hinges pointing in the same direction as they were originally, but just an inch or so further forward, which made the crucial difference. <Q> If you're open to buying a new toilet seat you can find seats with stiff hinges such as this: EZ Close seat Random example, never used above product... <S> With little kids in the house, I've picked up a few of these type of seat from a local home store. <S> They are marketed as "Slam free", "slow close", "quiet close" and similar. <S> The hinge provides enough resistance so the seat will eventually slide to the close position, but it will not slam or start to fall by itself. <S> This might not be the cheapest answer, but my seats were due for replacement anyway, so it was a good option for me. <A> You have some other possible solutions if you do not want to replace with another lid as suggested in the comments. <S> You could make a loop of cord or ribbon that attaches to the back of the cistern lid that you pickup and loop around the lid when it is in the UP position. <S> You could get some of the white stick on Velcro material and put one piece on the top of the lid and the other piece on front edge of the cistern lid. <S> If done with finesse this would not look bad at all and fully solve the problem of keeping the lid up. <S> Embedding the magnet could be done by making a flat bottom hole for a round magnet with a Forstner bit and then installing and covering the magnet with white epoxy. <S> The metal bracket can be spray painted with gloss white paint and would hardly be noticeable. <A> Some designs of hinge are often fitted the wrong way around. <S> I've seen this many times. <S> With the vertical part of the hinge further forward it alters the balance point and <S> hey presto, the seat stays up. <S> Worth <S> a second look at least... <A> let me begin by saying that my lid/seat is one of the thicker type of ones that is a little nicer, but that is also heavier and doesn't allow it to lean back like the plastic one that came with the toilet. <S> With that being said, and coupled with the fact that I tried everything you had put on here, I finally came up with another solution. <S> I simply drilled a small screw into the bottom of the seat (of course it being one of the thicker kind of seats you can drill into) just deep enough to where the screw wouldn't touch the toilet rim while the seat sits on the "bumpers" under the seat. <S> I then attached a rubber band to the inside of the flush handle (inside the cistern) where a little loop of it hangs out (not too noticeable). <S> From there, when you put up the toilet seat/lid, you simply loop the rubber band around the screw head on the bottom of the seat and it stays put. <S> It cost me a screw and a rubber band, 2 minutes to install, but too much time being aggravated with no solution and failed research on the problem. <S> I just wanted to share with you my solution <S> so maybe it might help someone else eliminate some wasted time and frustration in the future. <S> Thanks!
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An alternative to the Velcro would be to embed a magnet into the lid surface and make a steel clip that is inserted between cistern lid and the tank. Try taking the seat off and swapping the hinges over side to side.
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How to prevent trash bins from falling by placing apart or side-by-side, on a windy day? How can you secure trash-bins at the end of a sloped driveway, on a windy day ? Is side-by-side placement recommended to stabilize bins or should they remain apart as generally advised by sanitation company? Thanks! <Q> In my area the problem with the sloped driveway is solved by simply placing the bins along the curbing to the side of the driveway. <S> The roadway surface is typically sloped down a small amount toward the curb and this helps to keep the wheels of the bin squarely against the curb. <S> This in my experience offers more support for the bin in high wind conditions by trying to place them directly adjacent with each other. <S> And you can expect to get the bright orange warning sheet taped to your bin if you persist in doing this. <A> According to my friend who is a medical doctor and mechanical engineer , the best way to position garbage-bins during a windy-day — without supporting materials to anchor — is to situate them side-by-side exactly as I've pictured in the posted-question; boundary conditions explain the stabilizing-effect achieved: a very large, single-file line of trash-bins will efficiently resist forces during windy-conditions and more effectively than if they were otherwise arranged spaced-apart. <A> Placing the bins close to each other has nothing to do with them tipping over or not. <S> The reason they tip over is because of the relation of the "point of rotation" in its relation to the direction of wind. <S> When the "point of rotation" (the wheels) are placed on the leeward side, then it takes significantly less effort to rotate (tip over) the bins. <S> So, if the bins can be rotated 180 degrees so the wheels are on the windward side, it will be much more difficult to tip the bins over, (because the fulcrum point is moved a couple of feet against the wind.) <S> Likewise, if the bin is set on a slope, it will be "more difficult" or "less difficult" depending on which side the point of rotation is placed in relation to the wind. <S> So, if they won't let you rotate the bins, you could place a small object (like a wood block, etc.) <S> under the wheels. <S> This will move the center of gravity towards the wind and thus make it more difficult to tip the bin over.
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The negative factor with placing bins directly together is that the trash company driver will often bypass pickup at your location if you do this.
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How to treat the edge of OSB in a piece of furniture There are lots of nice pictures on the internet of untreated OSB CNC-cut into chairs/tables/benches. What can be done to the edge of the cut to have a clean surface with no strands and splinters? Other than gluing PVC edge banding (which ruins raw aesthetics and is often unpractical for non-linear cuts) <Q> I'd tend to fall in the "OSB furniture sounds like a terrible idea" camp, but anyway... <S> Two steps come to mind <S> - one is to seal the cut edges thoroughly using either a thin epoxy or a varnish/polyurethane type of product, to both bind small slivers and prevent or at least slow moisture intake and resultant edge swelling. <A> I have found that OSB plus Redgard is really really a good combo. <S> The redgard is kind of thick and can't really be sanded <S> so use is kind of all or none <S> but it does have high functionality/durability <S> and you can paint it. <A> There is a related question over in Woodworking . <S> There are some great suggestions here . <A> Using a router with a good carbide/carbide tipped bit, preferably a spiral cut one makes incredibly nice edges on most surfaces. <S> Some companies even make some specifically designed for OSB, Laminate, formica, and harder materials. <S> I think a good sharp bit, running at an appropriate speed will leave you with the finish you're looking for.
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The other is to sand the edges (you want to seal first, then sand so that sanding doesn't turn into peeling off slivers) - and you may want to seal again after sanding.
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Why do windows generally open to the outside in Ireland but not in the rest of continental Europe? See title. I see the reason for having it outside is being able to always have them open for ventilation. Since Ireland has a mild but humid climate. Opening to the inside inteferes with having plants on the window sills. Why not have a combination of both? <Q> I've found some details about use and locale usage of window directions and some arguments for both choices: http://www.luxal.co.uk/inward-and-outward-opening-windows/ <S> Summing up the claims by Frank Tate: <S> The direction is more seperated between northern (Scandinavian, UK) versus central and southern countries (Pt, Es, Fr, De, It, ...). <S> Both solutions have unique advantages in regard to climate and handling: <S> Appearence: <S> Inward opening windows are hiding themself behind the frame when they are open. <S> Cleaning and Installation: Inward opening windows are same easy to clean from inside and outside. <S> For modern outward opening windows there seem to be solutions as well. <S> Flowerpot: Inward opening windows are best decorated from outside, while outwards opening windows are best decorated from inside. <S> Shutters: For inward opening windows external shutters can be used. <S> They are providing much better isolation for radiating heat than internal shutters. <S> They also enable ventilation while keeping radiation heat outside. <S> Weather: Outwards windows tend to be more resilant to wind and rain, while they have to be secured when open at stormy weather. <S> Security: <S> Outwards windows can be more secure. <A> Here in Italy there's an historic reason: doors and windows opens inside because there was a tax on 'public soil usage' and a door or a window opening inside <S> wasn't subjected to it. <A> In Baltic, we have that for safety reasons... <S> When windows open inside that means the strong wind can't "wobble" them back and forth, eventually loosing the loops, which eventually can result window to fall off. <S> Considering that most of the houses are "Communist houses" (usually 9 story houses, containing 150+ flats) <S> you'd had way too high risk of getting killed by falling windows IF they were opening outside. <S> "Communist House" 602 series (most common type) <S> example:
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Anyway nowadays most have shutters on the outside and the glazing on the inside so window opens in both directions.
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Installing Honeywell Wifi on Ruud Furnace with G wire replacement trying to install RTH9580. My thermostat has only 4 wires so I am trying to substitute the G wire instead of C wire. On the furnace I put a jumper between Y and G wires and moved G wire to C wire location. See pictures? I still get no power. Any ideas on the wiring on the furnace side? <Q> If you don't mind the feel of air moving, you would be better off just putting a short jumper from R to G. <S> This will energize the fan relay to keep it running continuously and the best for you for constant air filtration and if equiped with a power humidifier will maintain the house humidity properly. <S> Then using the G wire as proposed should work. <S> Before you did this, did the fan start when flipping the fan swich on the thermostat to on for continuous fan operation? <S> Or if your new thermostat is in place, leave the power off change things back on the Furnace and disconnect the red for power and the green and just hold them together with the power back on for a few seconds at the thermostat to see if the fan starts, again to verify no breaks in the green wire. <A> The question is missing the second picture showing the modified wiring. <S> But giving the information provided it sounds like you made the correct modifications to allow the common wire to supply constant 24 volts to the wifi thermostat, bypassing the ability to operate the fan-only "green wire". <S> Tips <S> Check <S> the transformer is supplying power and is not bad. <S> Check ohms of any fuses. <S> Check wires are tight and not touching other wires. <S> Check ohms through TSTAT wires as sometimes the tiny wires can break and a entire new TSTAT wire is required. <A> I have a furnace that is at least 3 decades old. <S> It did not have a C wire. <S> I picked up a 24 volt transformer and used that. <S> SOrry <S> I don't have the specifics <S> but there was some info on the web about it. <S> Just be sure everything is in code. <S> THe transformer provided the required power for my Honeywell wifi theromostat. <S> It's been working well for over a year.
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Check your voltage from R to C terminals on the board to make sure you have 24 volts there. If you never tried it, it might be a good idea to change things back and do so to eliminate the chance that there's a break in the green wire.
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Keeping washing machine lines warm in a cold garage A month or two ago I installed a washer in my uninsulated garage. Now that we're getting some very cold weather coming up I'm worried about the rubber water lines freezing. I did put some foam insulation on the lines but I don't think they'll be enough. I put a thermometer in there and it tends to stay around 30-40 degrees in there. This weekend we're going to get into the negatives overnight so I was curious as to what everyone's thoughts were on an electric space heater. It would be right near the washing machine as well as the oil tank, but the furnace is in the cellar. Obviously every precaution says don't leave it unattended and such but do you think I'd be okay for at least letting it run for a little while during the day to generate some heat? If not what else do you suggest? Am I getting too concerned about the rubber lines freezing? Thanks. <Q> Instead of a space heater, try some pipe heating cable. <S> This is a simple electric resistance heater that is designed to be wrapped around pipes in order to prevent freezing. <S> The good ones have a thermostat built-in, so they'll only kick on if necessary. <S> You wrap the cable around your pipes, apply insulation over the wrapped pipes, and plug it in. <A> Heat tape will keep the hose from freezing (where it's attached) but there are other freezing risks... <S> e.g. where are the pipes coming from? <S> Do they go into the uninsulated wall? <S> Frankly installing a washing machine in a cold, unheated garage was not a great idea. <S> I think you need to think about ways to insulate and heat that area more permanently. <S> You can get electric baseboard heating installed for relatively cheaply. <A> Yep, heat tape, then wrap it with insulation. <S> Then just plug it in every year. <S> I've had mine for ten years wrapped like that. <S> Never freezes. <S> You do have to remember to plug it in though. <A> There is a product called heat tape. <S> It plugs into a wall outlet and usually has a small thermostat built in. <S> I have used it on PVC & Metal water lines even 1 hose outside. <S> Not sure if it will work on rubber <S> but it comes in as short as 3’ sections. <S> I use strapping tape to hold it in place. <S> Most home stores will have it called heat tape or heat cable <S> 3M makes some that can be made up in any length <S> but it is way expensive. <S> The last brand I purchased is by Frost King it has only been on for a month or so but has kept the water flowing in the low 20’s. <A> I wrapped water hoses with bubble wrap 5-6 times for the whole length. <S> And also gave a radiator type heater nearby should some water left in the washer gets frozen along with the motor. <S> Our garage temp was 28F
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I don't think anyone on here will tell you that running a portable space heater is wise, but if you must do it in the short term I would recommend an oil filled radiator style since the surface temperature doesn't get as high as some of the other electric radiator styles (lower fire risk). This will be a little trickier around your washer supply hoses, but assuming these don't move a lot you can probably just use some duct tape every 6" or so. Also there is still water inside the washing machine itself that can freeze.
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Tub only leaks when filled and plug removed my tenants called stating that water is pouring from their walls. They live on the second floor. A new tub was installed directly above on the third floor and has been used only for showering without any water dripping this past week. The tub was filled and when the drain was opened, this is when the leak occurred. They showered the next day and no water leak. Only when large volume at once to drain. Is there some overflow that can't handle all this volume/ pressure? Thanks. Jill <Q> There's no pressure/overflow inside the walls that would explain this. <S> There is a tub overflow that connects to these same drain lines, and due to their position, they could be partially related to the actual problem. <S> This indicates the drain lines have a leak, likely a bad glue joint on the top of the drain line near the trap. <S> If there's any partial blockage further down the drain that would worsen this issue. <S> The tub overflow is also connected on the top side of these drain lines, and if it's improperly connected, that would be another example of a bad joint on the top of the drain line. <S> You'll need to open up the wall or the ceiling below to find and correct this bad drain line. <A> It might be a poorly fitted waste outlet in the bath. <S> When plastic bathtubs are filled with water they change shape slightly due to the considerable weight of water. <S> This can move the connections to the waste pipe slightly. <S> The waste connection needs to be removed cleaned up and reconnected carefully. <A> I had the same problem. <S> Unscrew the drain flange, remove the old plumbers putty, apply fresh putty and retighten. <S> Weight from water in tub might be causing a slight separation between flange and tub. <S> I use silicone instead of plumbers putty. <S> No leaks.
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It might also just be due to the higher pressure of a tub full of water and the higher flow rates when draining.
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Distributing load in electrical panel I am in the process of rewiring my house. The house was built in 1950 and even though the service panel was upgraded in the early 70's to a Square D 200 amp service, the system is ungrounded and will not handle today's electrical load requirements. So I am replacing all of the wire, switches, receptacles and placing the wire in non-metallic conduits. My question is what is the best practice for separating the different loads into various circuits. I am putting the microwave on a dedicated circuit, but how should I separate the rest of the loads in the house. There are no other high power loads in the house. <Q> For instance, I prefer to keep all lighting circuits completely separate from any outlet circuits, having basically never had light fixtures blow a fuse/trip a breaker, but <S> having stumbled though the dark to the fusebox (yes, literally, fuses) too many times once upon a house when outlet overloads took out combined circuits (I think there were a total of 6.) <S> i.e. you have chosen to give the microwave its own outlet. <S> I prefer that the refrigerator also not share (I don't recall if code does that), code requires two separate 20A countertop outlet circuits, and I'd also put a separate light circuit in the kitchen (that might share with other rooms' lights, depending on load.) <S> Likewise code has some specific language and requirements for bathrooms, primarily hair-dryer-driven. <S> Remember that code specifies the minimum you must do; it does not limit what you do beyond that, so long as what you do meets it. <A> If you're in an area that follows the National Electrical Code (most of The United States), it provides a list of all the required circuits. <S> That should provide you with a good starting point. <S> Unfortunately, the section that covers this is quite long, so I'm not going to quote the entire text here. <S> It's quite a bit of information to cover, so even summarizing all the codes involved would be too much for a short answer format. <S> Before embarking on such a large project, I'd suggest you take some time to learn as much as you can. <S> Rewiring an entire house is a huge project, and one that should not be tackled by a novice. <S> Get a copy of the version of the National Electrical Code that's adopted in your area. <S> Read it, study it, understand it. <S> Then you might be ready to begin. <A> Of course you've got the NEC to abide by, but remember that it's only there to create the minimum requirements. <S> You can get a copy of it, but there is also free viewing online of any version. <S> Click " <S> Free access to the 2014 edition of NFPA 70" <S> (The NEC - you'll have to sign up, it's free) <S> http://www.nfpa.org/codes-and-standards/document-information-pages?mode=code&code=70 <S> On the same page you can find a link to the map of the US showing which states have adopted which code. <S> Also by clicking "Current & Prior Editions", you can find a drop down on that page to access the older copies. <S> All the way back to the 1993 version will have a free PDF to view. <S> In your case, you will want to mainly focus on sections 210 and 220. <S> These will give you the majority of the requirements. <S> Like I said at first though, honestly if you just draw up a quick sketch of your house and mark where all you want power at, it'll check most of the boxes. <S> Follow the requirements, but the biggest issue (as is your problem now) is to just don't bog down the circuits. <S> A 200A service should very well cover you, especially if the microwave is one of the biggest loads you've got. <S> Like the answer from Ecnerwal said, separate the lighting from your receptacles. <S> Then know that basically receptacles are counted as 180W each in calculation. <S> If you're going with 20A devices and breakers (#12 wire), then that gives you basically 2400W (13 outlets) until the breaker would trip; 15A devices (#14 wire) would allow 1800W (10 outlets). <S> Although it very well depends on what the intended use of the receptacles are for, you'll be fine with say 5-7 receptacles per circuit. <S> Especially since you probably won't have them all pumping power at once and hopefully don't plan to feed a room full of space heaters.
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Apart from what code requires, there are various things that you might choose to do, depending on your mindset, that are not code required (nor do they conflict with code.)
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How do I solve this mould problem? Before I get down to details I just wannna say that we are in UK and unable to go anywhere else as of financial issues. We've been living and renting a bottom floor flat for 4 years and it's been total nightmare. We been doing fine. Its just that the mould has gotten best of us. Before I list the rooms with problems just want to note that the house is quite old and way it was built was poorly done when looking from outside brick work. Apparently flat above us have same problem but instead the owner wishes not to fix it as it requires money and time. We also know that the roof has a leaking but we are unsure if it is the cause of it. Another thing to note that inner walls of our flat are perfectly fine but it's the outwalls that anything touch are the big problems. For better understanding of our situation I'll list rooms and the conditions that they are in. My dad bedroom is worst one of them all. there are 3 outer walls that are damp and have mould at bottom of them. We've tried everything to get it fixed such as Bleach or allowing some air to flow through. My bedroom has 2 outer walls and 2 inner walls. The 2 outer walls are fairly wet sometimes but show no signs of mould. Living room/ lounge has 2 out walls that are wet also. Kitchen is unsure but there has been signs of mould on things such as dining chairs. I read a post on this site about people suggesting to get anti-mould paint and some sort of spray to stop it or keep it at bay. Knowing this is great because I didn't know there was such a thing, but problem is still there as it catches onto things and just destroys it. Today I wanted to listen to music but when I open the case my headphone with leather padding were covered in mould. I understand it is bad for our health but having no where to go or if we did it would be a struggle. <Q> You don't need a DIY forum, you need a lawyer or a politician. <S> Your landlord is breaking the law. <S> Good luck getting this resolved! <A> Be careful with removing construction materials without property protection or disposal. <S> A professional remediator would install a barrier and set the affected area under a negative vacuum in order to collect all spores floating in the air. <S> As you start removing construction materials, spores become airborne and can continue spreading throughout the property. <S> You should first identify the source of moisture before painting over the mold, if the moisture is not taken care of, mold will never stop growing. <A> You may be on a tight budget <S> but I know here in the US we have products for basements the prevent water from entering. <S> If you have a brick/cement wall and cement floor, and access to it, you could always clean up the space and roll on some Drylok. <S> Its a masonry membrane product. <S> There may be something different/better in England, but this might be something to consider. <S> drylok: http://www.lowes.com/pd_255229-96-28615_0 <A> Do not try to just cover it up or live with it. <A> I'm very sorry <S> but, your "good friend" Landlord hasn't consulted anyone! <S> AND finally start removing walls. <S> Or, you finally get a Lawyer that puts all rents in escrow or more correctly files an injunction that stops all rents from being due unless & until the place is completely corrected & habitable. <A> I believe the problem is caused by high humidity within the wall. <S> This happened in Malaysia. <S> What we did was we searched for contractors who can inject polyurethane foam into wall. <S> We called in the cheapest contractor. <S> He drilled about 15 holes on outer walls from inside of the house. <S> He pressure inject the foam into each holes. <S> After this is done the problem totally gone.
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Stop the water first, then remove all mould by replacing with new materials. By all rights the building should be condemned & someone should start reading their leases! A bad brick job is fixed in a weekend with just a painted-on sealer! Get a quote from a painter yourself & demand that the Landlord have it done in 20-days A friend of mine was having this issue in his house, 2nd level in a 10 storey building, and i helped him to rid it once for all at lowest cost.
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What size beam do I need, and can I build one from lumber and steel? I want to support a 20 ft. span of my roof where two roofs come together. My house is was originally 46'by 20'. A 40'by 12' addition was added, making an L shape, and when they put the beam in they put 2 supports in middle of room that I want to elimanate. Roof is 2x6 rafters. From top of wall to peak is 32". Was wondering what kind and how big of beam I should put under old beam and be able to support on just the 2 ends, not in the middle. <Q> You need an engineer's advice on what the load is and what is required to support it. <S> And no, you really can't make a mixed materials i-beam. <A> Span tables are available online for any material just google around. <S> Like here . <S> It is not clear by your question what distance you wish to span. <S> Roof support requirements are different in California than Montana and if you have cement or slate roofing versus asphalt or steel. <S> Most companies that engineering roof trusses have software that can calculate all that for you if you are having them bid the roof package or LVL's. <S> Good luck with your project! <A> Whilst this is not an full answer, it's to give you some ballpark estimates. <S> Your (steel) beam will have to be approximately 9 times the strength of the one you have at the moment. <S> This is based on a 6m span compared to 3 no. <S> individual 2m spans. <S> The supports will have to carry 3 times what they carry presently, so you might have to consider the bearing capacity of your walls. <S> Do you Yanks do these things in wood? <S> You might get away with some form of wooden post or lattice. <S> It'll also be significantly deeper than the existing one, so can you stand that? <S> Without a detailed drawing of your current and proposed arrangements, we cannot provide a more detailed answer. <S> You don't need a structural engineer actually, as such lintels are very simple and an experienced builder should be able to size them. <S> He'll have to visit you though.
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It's common to build small brick piers out from existing walls, but for a wooden house you might need some more steel as vertical columns. The other thing is, there are different requirements depending on where you live and what, if any, the snow loading will be and the material of the roof.
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What is the 2-inch layer of masonry under my bathroom tile? My house is 1 story, but I have a basement so all the floors on the main level are "upstairs" and have a wooden subfloor. I ripped out the vanity in a bathroom I'm working on and starting taking out the tile. I had a bit of trouble because the vanity had to be lifted almost 2" to come out which I thought was odd. It looks like there is some type of poured in "concrete" like material above the wooden subfloor and the tile. Any idea what this is? Can I just pour in more where the vanity was to level it out? <Q> This floor has been floated , a very common and traditional method for preparing surfaces for tile. <S> To "float" is to apply a cement and sand mix similar to concrete but without rocks, gravel or coarse sand. <S> A 2" thick float is not uncommon at all. <S> It is often applied using a "dry pack" method wherein only enough water is mixed to ensure proper set but wet enough to pack, shape, feather, and blend. <S> Do not use pre-mixed bagged concrete mix. <S> I guess you could then use a thin layer of floor leveling compound to flatten, smooth, and blend the damaged areas and seams. <A> Looks like they poured the floor for the tile backing. <S> You could use sackrete to fill the area. <A> thats drypack. <S> its an older way to prep a floor to allow for tile installation. <S> it was used to allow for the floor to breathe, so <S> any moisture that got past the tile mortar didn't get trapped between the tile and the base (as it would if you just used concrete). <S> nobody does it anymore because the last two decades have seen the use of polymeric modifiers to almost all grouts and mortars. <S> it use to be standard practice for good to high quality tile work. <S> just fill the hole with sakrete or some other such concrete pre-mix in a bag (3/8 stone or bigger, 32mpa or higher - almost all bagged concrete meets this requirement)
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Once your tile is chipped up use a self leveling compound to prep for whatever type of flooring you want to use. If you do not want to mix your own, use pre-bagged mortar mix and "dry pack" the area.
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Best lighting option for basement Bought my house back in August. Have finished everything upstairs, so it's time to finish the basement. It has a fixed ceiling already with 3 lights. Two lights have pull chains and one (which you can't see but is directly to the right of the picture) turns on with a switch at the top of the stairs. My plan was to put a few recessed LED lights down there strung together connected to the switch. Since the ceiling is fixed, I will have to fish the wiring to the left to the other side of the basement where there is no fixed ceiling. Any better light suggestions? I thought maybe using rail lights, but the ceiling is only 7 ft high. <Q> Recessed fixtures would seem like a perfectly good option, since they won't project down below the ceiling. <S> LED (generically) or "relatively efficient LED" more specifically without getting any more specific (it's a moving target anyway) is an excellent idea - you can light the whole basement on what one or two old-style bulbs took for power, and bulb replacement is a non-issue. <S> Just do keep an eye on the lumens-per-watt figure - some are just selling not very efficient fixtures that happen to have LEDs in them in the hope that you'll see LED and ignore lumens per watt. <S> Given that you have the open side to fish to, I'd just wire them up and call it a day. <S> OTOH, if you can't think of a reason you'd want it dim/half-bright in the basement, leave the switch. <A> You may want to consider replacing those lights with a type that turns on and off via carrier current signalling on the power line. <S> These have a switch for the light built right into the light unit and then the switch is replaced with a unit that can generate the codes on the power line to command the lights on and off. <S> The advantage is that you can save yourself a huge pain of trying to re-do enclosed wiring. <S> I am not wanting to endorse any particular technology for this <S> but you can research X10 and zWave. <A> Taller people will likely hit their heads on most fixtures with a 7 foot ceiling. <S> I would recommend wall sconces and table lighting. <S> A track light fixture would be potentially useful as long as it was not directly where someone may hit their head. <S> But, with a low ceiling, track lights can't cast light far away without likely being in someone's eyes. <S> Recessed lighting may work, but with low ceilings the light won't have much chance to disperse. <S> If you're considering recessed lighting I would look for a light planner online to get an idea of the number required to adequately light your space. <A> Your cheapest, easiest solution is low profile surface mount luminaires. <S> They come in LED and flourescent varieties. <S> If you want to have all lights switched you could use Michael Karas's suggestion of power line signaling or wireless switches. <S> Otherwise, get ready to get dirty fishing wiring into a closed ceiling. <S> Good luck!
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If you also replace the switched fixture they'll connect to, you might consider dimmable LEDs (many are these days) and an LED dimmer. If you wanted to get complicated (a bit of drywall work) you could actually bump them up into the ceiling a bit.
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How do I attach both my washer and dryer to the same NEMA 14-30 receptacle? Currently, I have a single NEMA 14-30 plug in the laundry room. I also have an ASKO W6022 dryer (manual available here: https://www.manualowl.com/p/Asko/W6022/Manual/161455 )and an LG DLEC855W dryer (manual available here: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/507130/Lg-Dlec855w.html ). The dryer is currently fitted with one of these: http colon //www.amazon.com/Choice-30-Amp-4-Prong-Eyelet-Terminals/dp/B00BDJU2L4 As a result, it is functional because the other end is plugged into the NEMA 14-30 plug in the room. However, the washer is currently fitted with a NEMA 6-20 and is not functional. My question is: what kind of adjustments should I make in order to have both the washer and the dryer function at the same time off of this one circuit? I am thinking about building a custom 2 gang box that receives the HotHotNeutralGround from the dryer and the HotHotGround from the washer and then outputs a NEMA 14-30 male plug. If I go down this path, how do I connect the two Hot's together within the gang box? BTW -- I know that running these two appliances on the same circuit sounds like a bad idea. However, our home came with it preinstalled alongside the Asko washer and a corresponding Asko dryer. It was working fine for years prior to the kids breaking the dryer recently. We upgraded the dryer to the LG one and now have this cord problem and would really love to avoid having to install a new circuit. <Q> You originally had an Asko washer/dryer matched set. <S> This wasn't just style. <S> The Asko washer plugged into the Asko dryer , which provided a special NEMA 6-20 receptacle on the back, specifically for an Asko washer. <S> Why? <S> The set is designed for high-density condos/apartments , to minimize utility hookups (no hot water, no dryer vent, no separate washer power). <S> See page 18 of this document . <S> My guess is, you live in a large housing complex which found it profitable to buy the exotic Asko units to spend less on hookups. <S> I'm also guessing you "own" rather than "rent" since a landlord would be more hands-on. <S> Was the electrical connection part of your buying decision? <S> I'm sure the appliance store has sold into your housing complex before. <S> Did they know about the peculiar Asko hookup and recommend the LG because it's compatible? <S> If so, it should have a 6-20 outlet on the back; done. <S> Otherwise, aside from consumer or legal recourse against the appliance store for selling you the wrong thing, let's talk about your technical options. <S> Your maintenance department may have suggestions. <S> Have maintenance pull a new wiring run to an additional NEMA 6-20 receptacle for the washer. <S> This will be expensive (remember, this is why the complex spent extra on Asko units) but will give flexibility - letting you choose a wider selection of washer/dryers. <S> (they still need to be water-heating/ventless). <S> Your dual-outlet solution is illegal and unsafe because the dryer could pull 30A while the washer pulls 15A. The Asko dryer was designed to share a 30A circuit with the washer it controls - the LG isn't. <S> I suppose it might be possible to get a very large switch to power EITHER <S> the 14-30 dryer outlet OR the 6-20 washer outlet. <S> But insurance/liability/HOA won't let you homebrew that, you'd have to hire it done, and it'd cost as much as option 2. <S> Plus it'd be rather "hillbilly". <S> Don't get adapter cables and unplug the washer and plug in the dryer every load. <S> These large outlets are not made for frequent unplugging. <S> I would just ditch the dryer and hang clothesline... in the kid's room... <S> the one who broke the dryer! <A> You cannot run the washer on the 30A circuit of the dryer. <S> If you now have a 20A/240V circuit, as long as it is dedicated to the washer, you can easily convert it to 20A/120V, if that's what you need. <S> I am a bit confused as to what you have and what you need. <S> DO NOT try to makeshift something using only the dryer circuit. <A> It worked before because the rating of the two original units is within the 30 amp spec. <S> You could install a small pony panel with the correct breaker protection for both machines and run the corresponding receptacles from the pony panel this would protect both correctly and if an overload issue occurred with both on the breaker of your main panel feeding the pony would trip. <S> This is not btw to code but would work safely. <S> Only problem running both 8f it doesn't trip would be the sensitivity of the electronics to voltage fluctuations when both are operating. <S> If you run one at a time then no issues. <S> Proper option to code is to run another circuit.
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Obtain a dryer that is compatible with the Asko "plug washer into dryer" arrangement. You cannot do what you propose. Either way, it sounds like you have what will work, but there is a problem with something. And the machine that provides power to the other via plug would have its own internal breaker or fuse to protect at a lower amperage trip the other machine.
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Ungrounded outlets, what are my options? I'm currently in a lease on an apartment as a tenant. I've done quite a lot of small-time electrical work on places I've lived in the past: changing out outlets, switches, two-way switches, etc. I'm not uncomfortable at all with opening up a wall outlet and changing it out. At my current apartment after changing some of the outlets due to old age/weak springs in the outlets, I discovered (unfortunately) that none of the 10 outlets I replaced are grounded. It's not likely that any of the outlets are grounded. For my expensive equipment, I'll likely run a UPS with a really good surge protector in front of it to prevent it from damage in the case of a fault. However, what are my options for fixing the problem at the source? Is it possible that the breaker box itself is grounded with the outlets and switches ungrounded? Does being ungrounded mean that the only solution is to run wires and hire an experienced electrician to install a ground rod? Would replacing all outlets with GFCI adapters help? Update I have just tested an outlet using a wiring tester and things look okay: The lights indicate that the wiring is correct. This tester is a bit old and decrepit so I'm going to order another one and try it again to be sure. Would something like this be able to tell me that I am, in fact, grounded? Update 2 Many of the outlets were wired in this way: Both the hot and neutral wires are wired in this way on many of the outlets, which I thought was really strange. Typically, I've seen wire endings attached to the outlets, not the middle of a wire stripped and wrapped around the screw on the side of the outlet. <Q> It is very possible that the breaker panel is grounded and that the neutral is grounded but the outlets and lights aren't. <S> If you don't know how to tell if the panel is grounded, you could take a picture of the panel and post it here <S> and I'll edit my answer. <S> When you moved in, were the outlets two prong outlets or three prong outlets? <S> If they were two prong outlets then you can't upgrade them to three prong without making sure the whole system is grounded properly. <S> If they were three prong outlets when you got there <S> then you Landlord is liable and he must get it fixed. <S> Ungrounded three prong outlets are a real hazard. <S> In any case, I would try to find out what is really going on and then approach your Landlord. <S> Since you don't own the house, it is neither your responsibility nor your right to do anything major without approval from the landlord and in this case since it could is a safety issue, and it is definitely an upgrade on his house, your landlord should pay for it... or at least pitch in. <S> No, a GFCI will not fix the problem. <S> A GFCI does meet code [210-7(d)(3)] and is better than nothing <S> but it is a last resort. <S> It is my belief that it only satisfies the NEC because they knew that some people would not do it right <S> and they figured that the GFCI outlet was better than nothing. <S> Edit after Your Uptdate <S> You may want to make sure that they didn't use any " bootleg grounds . <S> " Those testers are easily tricked by these false grounds but these "tricks" are not safe. <A> GFCI outlets are for protecting human life . <S> They detect any current imbalance between the hot and grounded ("neutral") conductors, and trip very quickly when any imbalance is detected. <S> When any load is connected to the circuit (like your running computer), the hot and "neutral" should carry precisely the same amount of current. <S> If the current is different, that means current is flowing through some other path. <S> If that other path is your heart, you're a goner. <S> If you install a GFCI, one GFCI can protect all the outlets "downstream" from it, and if it is on an ungrounded circuit you're supposed to put the little "No Equipment Ground" label on it. <S> This does allow you to safely put 3-prong receptacles on an ungrounded circuit. <S> A GFCI cannot provide grounding for equipment . <S> That's a different matter. <S> Proper grounding serves a lot of purposes. <S> One purpose is reducing background noise or "hum" in electronics. <S> Grounding also helps surge protectors work more effectively by giving them a path to shunt overcurrent to, although a surge protector also has one or more MOV's (Metal Oxide Varistor) <S> which divert current. <S> MOV's do wear out and can eventually fail if they're hit too many times with overcurrent. <S> Also, with your computer case, all the pipes in your house, the housings of all your other grounded appliances and so on set to the same voltage potential, there isn't a big voltage differential if you touch a faucet and your computer at the same time. <S> If you shuffle your feet across the carpet then touch your computer, a proper ground gives that static electricity (which could be 10's of thousands of volts) a non-destructive path that shunts it away from super-sensitive CPU's and memory chips. <S> Grounding does provide a degree of human safety, as well. <S> If there's a short in the device which energizes the casing, and you touch the casing, the ground wire is an easier return path for the current than you are, so you don't get electrocuted, and so on. <A> Your surge protector will be less effective than otherwise, on anungrounded circuit. <S> It's possible, but unlikely, that the metal box of each outlet isgrounded. <S> Take pictures and post them here for advice. <S> When changing the outlets, take care that old fragile wire isprotected from mechanical damage (I like to slip shrink wrap over). <S> If there are only two wires, install only two wire outlets. <S> You can safely and legally put a three prong GFCI outlet with "no equipment ground" in your walls. <S> But these are expensive and use electricity even when not in use. <S> They're probably not worth it outside the bathroom.
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Many surge protectors don't work at all if they aren't properly grounded, and those that do are much less effective. So a GFCI will provide human safety on an ungrounded outlet. I would open up the breaker panel and see if there is a ground running to it. This is a good question which can have a variety of answers depending on the exact case.
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Reverse polarity on outlets, any negative side-effects? I've lived in a variety of different places where polarities have been different on a per-outlet basis, ie the neutral is where the hot should be. I've never noticed any ill effects from this. Are there any side-effects of having the polarities reversed? My understanding is that almost any AC device out there will just simply flow the other way if the polarity is backwards. <Q> There's no danger to the attached load. <S> AC current reverses direction 50 or 60 times each second depending on what country you're in. <S> It literally makes no difference at all for the equipment. <S> Human safety is another matter . <S> The hot conductor is generally dangerous if you touch it, while the grounded ("neutral") is generally (not always) safe. <S> However, if equipment has a single-pole switch, it is only breaking the conductor it assumes <S> is the hot conductor. <S> If you have the hot and neutral reversed, then the appliance is still energized even if the switch is off. <A> You're correct that in an AC system, the electricity flows both directions and therefore will allow items to function. <S> However, these items can't be regarded as safe. <S> When two wires come into a device, and it has a switch, the switch is designed to interrupt the hot wire. <S> If the polarity were reversed and the switch on the device were turned off - it would be interrupting the grounded (neutral) wire. <S> This means if you turned off a light and stuck your finger in the bulb receptacle (Safety note: <S> I don't recommend it.) <S> You could be providing a ground-fault current path and complete the circuit! <A> Just to add something. <S> Technically reversing the polarity of an outlet can kill a device if the device was improperly implemented. <S> IE if the device uses a half wave rectifier instead of a full wave bridge rectifier you will be providing an AC source through the entire ground plane of the DC components thus resulting in a visit from the blue smoke monster. <A> The relative voltage between hot and neutral is constantly reversing but that doesn't mean that the two conductors are the same. <S> Relative to earth the hot is varying (both positive and negative) while the neutral stays at roughly zero voltage relative to earth. <S> A single pole protective device that ends up in the neutral also can't provide any protection against faults to earth. <S> It is possible to design applicances that meet safety requirements even if live and neutral are reversed and most modern appliances are likely to be built this way since in many parts of the world unpolarised plugs are the norm. <S> However if you live in a country where correct polarity is expected (such as the US and the UK) you should respect that expectation to ensure that all equipment is safe, even older equipment or equipment that was built in your country and never intended to be exported.
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In particular if a single pole switching or protection device ends up in the neutral due to reverse polarity it can leave the appliance in an "off but live" state which is undesirable.
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What is the explicit difference between the ground and neutral wire in 110V systems? So, I've put in or replaced several outlets following wiring instructions online and in the box. Nothing big. I know that if I fail to turn off the breaker then I shouldn't directly touch the black wire, but touching the white wire or the bare copper wire is fine. From this, I know that the black wire is the supply, power is flowing from it, and will happily flow into me. Since neither the white wire nor the bare copper wire shock me, I don't know the difference between the two, other than "Power flows into these once a circuit is completed" So what is the difference, in detail, between the neutral and the ground connectors in 110V applications? <Q> Grounding <S> It provides a low resistance path back to the source, so that a fault can be cleared by the breaker (trip). <S> Grounded (neutral) <S> The grounded (neutral) conductor is a current carrying conductor, and is used to complete the circuit back to the source. <S> In normal use, it will carry the same amount of current as the ungrounded (hot) conductor. <S> Touching this wire is not recommended, as there is actually current flowing through it. <S> However, as it likely provides a lower resistance path back to the source, most of the current will flow through the wire instead of you. <S> If there's enough current flowing, or you provide a good enough path to the source, touching this wire can result in large amounts of current flowing through you. <A> The Ground wire is purely for safety, and carries no current during normal use. <S> The Neutral wire is responsible for carrying all the "return" current the Hot wire provides to the electrical device. <S> The neutral wire is not, however, a perfect conductor, and has some resistance. <S> A 100 foot run of 14 awg wire, for instance, has 0.25Ω resistance. <S> If an electrical device is using the full 15 amps maximum load allowed on that wire, then at that load the neutral line will be a little more than 3 volts away from ground. <S> 3 volts AC isn't a lot, but it can be noticeable if you happen to touch it, and under some circumstances it can be fatal. <S> Further, without ground, it's one failure point away from having a full 120V available on it. <S> For instance, if it's at the end of the circuit and has a number of daisy chained outlets in the path, the resistance goes up significantly, increasing the voltage level under load, and increasing the chances of a poor arcing connection at one of those locations. <S> It's the reason why ungrounded equipment (two prong plugs) is designed to be fully insulated from the user - even though neutral is near ground, it isn't ground and depending on the connection quality along the way to the panel and the load on the line, it may be dangerously far from ground. <S> If you place a highly reactive load at the end of the line (motor, switching power supply, etc) that uses the full current capacity of the line <S> (you'll notice that these types of loads are almost always grounded) then you'll find that the neutral line is carrying a waveform that may be far from safe, even though, technically, it's a very low RMS AC voltage. <S> Never, ever treat the neutral line as safe. <A> I will try to answer your question but we have to correct and understand some details. <S> First, touching the white wire is not always fine. <S> In fact, it can deliver quite the shock, even more so than the black wire alone. <S> Why is this you may ask? <S> Well, the black wire is the supply, but keep in mind that all a circuit is is a loop. <S> Black and white are just colors to help keep the logical flow going. <S> The logical flow is either parallel, and or series circuit, or both together. <S> The most fundamental circuit is always a series circuit. <S> The white wire in most cases is the last stop in the loop to finish the circuit. <S> And depending where the loop is broken will determine the amount of voltage and ampacity. <S> The black wire is usually ran in a parallel which means it will always have its full potential available. <S> This is often not the case for the white wire where the voltage potential is depleted. <S> This depletion gives the illusion that it is not dangerous because it will not trip a breaker, or cause a explosive arc when connected to a ground. <S> However, if you by accident become part of the circuit loop, you will definitely feel the shock. <S> The entire reason behind a grounding system is simply REFERENCE. <S> Without a ground, there is no reference to zero voltage potential. <S> Why is this so important? <S> Think of it similar to Greenwich Time. <S> Why do we use GMT in the first place? <S> It serves as a starting point. <S> In the electrical industry, the reference is used for safety as many have already pointed out, but there are many other uses such as for antennas, system calibrations, surges, and so on.
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The bare copper (grounding) conductor is a safety system that provides an effective ground-fault current path, and should only ever have current it in the event of a fault.
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20 amp circuit breaker trips after a few minutes or sometimes hours later The 20 amp circuit breaker that controls my man cave, my rear patio lights including a lampost, and some outlets in my back yard started tripping about two weeks ago. Currently the lights and outlets in backyard are not in use and have not been since late October. As early as yesterday, I unplugged, and put all light switches in the off position that is controlled by that breaker. The breaker held for about 7 hours before tripping late last night. The outlets and lampost in back yard are all new. They were installed last May when I had some work done on my back yard. Never was there any problem after installation up until 2 weeks ago. We live in NY and did have a major Blizzard about 3 weeks ago as well as freezing temp over the last week or so. I checked the outlets and all are dry and wiring is all intact. Any other suggestions?? Quite stressful not being able to use my man cave and the thought of all the $$$ it may take to correct! <Q> You have too much stuff on that circuit. <S> From your comments, a GFCI outlet tripping is not your problem. <S> You can get power monitor devices that will tell you what each device draws. <S> The simplest is the Kill-a-Watt, which for about $20 and measures a single load. <S> They make more sophisticated monitors too. <S> The breaker that's tripping has a number - either 15 or 20. <S> That's the maximum amps. <S> Multiply by 120 (i.e. 1800 or 2400), that's the maximum watts, and also the maximum VA (volt-amps). <S> Check it in the same conditions that make the breaker trip. <S> Tally up the amps, VA, and watts. <S> At this point, people often find a big surprise. <S> I can't guess what your surprise is. <S> Now you work the list, same as you would if you were trying to be "green" or save on your energy bill. <S> Lots of people with those motives will help you with this problem. <S> FYI 1 watt of energy, run continuously, costs you $1/year or more. <S> Some upgrades will pay for themselves. <S> If stuff is running continuously, you want your breaker capacity to be 125% of the continuous loads. <A> You have an earth leakage problem. <S> Fluorescent lights can also be a culprit of this if you have any fitted. <S> Ultimately the correct way to locate it which also is the easiest is to do insulation resistance testing. <S> Im going to assume you have no electronics connected to this circuit aswell as they tend to have a higher than nomral earth leakage that can cause nuisance tripping <A> A breaker tripping would only suggest over current/overload. <S> You probably have a short somewhere.
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If you're getting a plain breaker trip, the usual reason is overcurrent. Due to the outdoors nature of that circuit its a bet that moisture has gotten into the circuit be it the fixtures or into the cabling. It is not earth leakage as only rcd/rcbos monitor earth leakage. By now you probably know which devices are on this circuit, so check every one with the tester, one by one.
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Can I wire a dimmer in series with another dimmer? I recently installed eight recessed LED fixtures and one hanging fixture in my living room. The hanging fixture has three small LED flood/spot lights to illuminate built in shelving on the stone fireplace. All fixtures are currently controlled by a single dimmer. My problem is that the three small floods are too bright. I've already got the lowest wattage dimmable bulbs available with this G10 style base. Can I wire in a second dimmer in series with the main dimmer, to reduce power to just the one fixture? I'd still like all fixtures to be controlled by the single main wall switch/dimmer but just want the flood fixture to put out less light. <Q> No, this really won't work. <S> Suppose you have 2 dimmers at 20% and 50%. <S> You are hoping the effect will be multiplicative, that is, 50% of 20% is 10%. <S> It won't. <S> Two SCR dimmers in series will, at best, give you the lower dimming level of the two, i.e. 20%. <S> A PWM dimmer, commonly used on dedicated LED circuits, pulses at its own high frequency. <S> If you have two of them, they will pulse at different frequencies. <S> This will create a much lower "beat frequency", in music this is what makes it annoying when instruments are out of tune with each other. <S> In light, this would look like pulsing or shimmering. <S> You won't like it. <S> Actual LED emitters can be dimmed very effectively to absolutely any light level. <S> Turn the LED on for 10 microseconds and off for 990 microseconds, you will get 1% brightness - they can be controlled that precisely. <S> It's a lot harder in built commercial products, which have to work with a variety of existing dimmer technologies made for incandescents, and also hit a "price point" that will make you snatch it off the shelf at Home Depot. <S> The result of these compromises is lousy dimming range. <A> With that said if you turn the first dimmer down two far there may not be enough “gate” voltage to operate the second one <S> but it is worth a try. <A> Can you get at the wiring inside the hanging fixture? <S> Try wiring the three small floods in series instead of in parallel. <S> If that works but is too dim you can then substitute higher wattage bulbs. <S> Of course if one bulb fails then all three will go out...
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Most dimmers use SCR (silicon controlled rectifiers) adding a second dimmer should work to reduce just the single lamp.
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Home Repair of Refrigerator Waterline I have an 10 year old LG refrigerator ( model LRFD25850ST ). The white polyethylene waterline running from the refrigerator water pump up the back of the refrigerator is leaking about half-way up. It feeds both the ice maker and in-door water dispenser, but it runs through the foam insulation first, so a complete replacement is not practical at this time. I would like to see if I can repair or splice it. That writing on the tube reads: DMT PE TUBE 0.D5/16"XI.DO.216" 70F 170P= NSF-51 & NSF-61 04EH10 05-1 What is the best way to repair this waterline? <Q> You need a plastic quick coupling. <S> Go to a professional plumbing supplier and buy a 5/16 x 5/16 Parker fitting. <S> These are similar to Sharkbite fittings, but plastic and about half the size of the smallest Sharkbite. <S> They come in 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 7/16. <S> A number of companies such as Celcon and John Guest make them, but Parker invented them so like Hoover for a vacuum, they are called 'Parkers'. <S> Simply cut your pipe right at the leak with a very sharp craft knife then fit each end into the straight fitting. <A> A trip to the local hardware or home center should provide you with the tubing and fittings you need. <S> If you shut off the valve you can cut out a section to bring with you. <S> You'll need a couple of fittings to connect the new to the old. <S> Bear in mind <S> I would consider this a temporary repair. <A> The tube comes in through the fridge into the filter system pull the filter and one screw and the hole tube can be removed. <A> I know this is an older link <S> but I've had the same situation with my lg refrigerator. <S> it is a line that comes from the solenoid up the back of the fridge into the filter you might as will just replace the whole thing <S> is I have splice mine a few times <S> and it is continually sprung a leak and other places. <S> I think it is ridiculous that LG put a line in the back of the refrigerator that is rated for 70°F . <S> It's not a hard fix
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What ever caused the section to fail be it age or vibration likely effected all the tubing so total replacement is what I would recommend.
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How can I determine if a mirror is tempered glass or not? I have a full wall vanity mirror (70" x 42") in my bathroom wall. I need to drill some holes through it in order to install a vanity light. I realized that if the mirror is made from tempered glass it might shatter completely if I try to drill on it. The mirror probably is construction grade installed originally when the house was built in 1988. Is there any way to tell if a mirror is made from tempered glass or not, without breaking it, and assuming that there are no "tempered glass" labels anywhere? <Q> First really look for the watermarks. <S> These are usually ultrafaint in a corner. <S> They could even be upside down. <S> Second look for any chips on the edges. <S> Third if you need the hole just drill it. <S> Use the smallest bit you have to start and work your way to the size you need. <S> Wear gloves but putting a tiny hole in tempered glass will probably cause a shatter but probably not the whole sheet. <S> There is probably a 1% chance this is tempered if that as a vanity has no code requirement for that <S> and I don't know of builders willing to pay triple for no reason. <A> Most of the installed mirrors I've met in the course of my work have been non-tempered. <S> Especially since you can't find markings, I'd assume that it's not. <S> And really -- the worst that can happen is a cascade of smallish hunks of glass. <S> Then you'll send out for some glass <S> that's appropriate for your needs. <S> Wear safety gear and go for it. <A> Nobody tempers mirror. <S> Just fyi. <S> Some companies for equine specialties from Europe claim to have tempered mirror. <S> I've never seen it and the cost makes the hundred millionaires I work with balk. <S> If you have a mirror in your home, it is not tempered.
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If there are chips it isn't tempered.
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House wired with Cat5e, but no central access? In every room of my home, there is an outlet with three connections: coax, Cat5e RJ45, and an RJ11 for phones. I unscrewed the outlet and noticed that all of the wires seem to be heading up towards the attic. I did a very brief check of my attic (just took a peek from the ladder), but all I could see were valleys and mountains of insulation. If the wires end here, I would have to literally go hunting for them under the insulation. Why would the wires terminate here? Is this common? I've searched all over my house, but there is no central point where the ethernet cords lead to. I'm guessing the wires end somewhere in the attic, but I can't fathom why the master builders would lead them all up here and then stop. Is it common for a prewired home to leave it up to the owner to further wire them to a central location closet? <Q> If you don't have a basement and the builder didn't want to put a cover plate in a closet somewhere, the attic is the only place left inside. <S> It is very common for a builder to simply run the low voltage wires and leave them un-terminated. <S> A builder can say "wired for cable\internet" without any terminations being made. <S> Hopefully there's an outlet somewhere up there because you'll need power for the router and if you're lucky there's a breaker you can toggle instead of having to climb back up there to reset it. <S> Why are most of my cable/coax wires disconnected? <S> This would be no different than many people's basements I've seen. <A> I'm guessing they terminate somewhere. <S> Ours are terminated in a panel in the master bedroom walk-in closet. <S> There might also be a panel in your garage. <A> The RJ45 usually had a central point that they ran back to (office or computer nook) with as many as 6 or 8 connection points in that room. <S> There was no standard for where they went if we sold the house prior to placement we let the owners change the location.
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You might try looking in your closets for a panel of some sort. If you find coiled lengths all piled-up in some location, the builder might have planed on dropping them down one of the walls, otherwise have fun making all the connections hunched over in your attic and dealing with having equipment up there. I agree it would be strange to not terminate them someplace common. On the houses I have wired all the RJ11 went to the "bell" box on the outside of the house where the phone company connects.
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Can I mix acrylic paint with latex paint? I have a gallon of interior latex paint (with primer mixed in) and a gallon of interior acrylic paint (with primer mixed in). The color I want is somewhere in between the two. Can I blend these two paints together? Will it affect how it dries or how long it will last? The internet yields inconsistent and confusing results. Also this answer implies acrylic and latex paints are the same, but I'm not sure if it's the same context (I don't know what "water dispersion paint" is). <Q> There actually is no difference between latex and acrylic paints because there is no latex in latex paints. <S> Let me explain. <S> All water based paints today are referred to as "latex", even though there is absolutely no latex rubber in the formula. ... <S> Better quality paints have more acrylic resins than vinyl. <S> The acrylic paint for walls simply are thicker with more teeny acrylic beads that bind together when the water evaporates. <S> THey pull together and tighten creating a coated surface of plastic polymer. <S> The liquids in the paint may have some additives to strengthen and thicken this process. <S> The thinner the paint (cheaper) means the less polymer beads the paint has in it. <S> Thus making the issue of multiple coats to fill in the areas that the beads were spread apart. <S> Pigments are the colors added to the medium (polymers & Liquid). <S> Curing in the case of Acrylics is simply a drying process that tightens and pulls the polymer beads together. <S> No chemical change is needed other than evaporation. <S> Its not oil based. <A> No. <S> The color may be fine but the binding properties you have no idea. <S> And when I say binding, it is not only while it is going on but also after it cures - if it does cure. <A> "Can I blend these two paints together?" <S> YES <S> "Will it affect how it dries or how long it will last?" <S> YES <S> When mixing "water based" paints together (which I have personally done many, many times) you should test it on a representative sample surface to ensure that it rolls/brushes on satisfactorily and dries/cures to the color you want in the time you want. <S> There is no practical way for a home user to test how long it will last. <A> I am an artist, and I create and experiment. <S> I also live on a tight budget. <S> I Wanted to paint my old shed to match the new blue gray siding on my house <S> and I had a can of blue exterior blue paint <S> but it was too bright. <S> I grayed it down by adding artist acrylic paint, tested it on an object; when it seemed to work OK, I painted the shed. <S> It went on smoothly, dried normally and after 3 seasons including a harsh winter <S> it still looks great. <S> However how long it will last <S> I don't know <S> but I hopefully until I can afford new paint. <S> Success made depend on colors, paint brands or other factors, but I figure it was worth a try and if it didn't work then I would have had a different answer for you.:) <A> The answer to this is quite simple. <S> When in doubt phone the paint company and ask for their Technical Department. <S> These wonderful people know everything there is to know, not only about their own product but usually most of their competitors as well <S> and they love to pass that information on. <S> Phone numbers are usually found on the back of the tin, through the retailer or a simple internet search will yield results. <A> I was doing an artistic composition. <S> Artist grade acrylic dries <S> almost rubber like and acts like an adhesive or glue like in application. <S> and I was hopeful, <S> but in the drying the excess moisture in the latex wall paint caused some undesired effects. <S> The acrylic pulled tighter in places and the latex caused the gesso to crack (I think due to excessive moisture in the wall paint) <S> so painting over the mess caused the acrylic to ball up and pull from the canvas. <S> (in other words, whether painting a wall or doing a composition, I will never mix the two again) <S> I will definitely never use gesso with a common latex again as well. <A> I did this a long time ago. <S> About 1 bottle to 1 gallon. <S> It looked nice for about two years. <S> I noticed a slight marble look in some areas after it faded. <S> It wasn't horribly noticeable to others since they didn't live there <S> but we noticed it when up close.
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When I tried mixing artist grade acrylic with latex wall paint the results went on smoothly
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Sealing gas duct vents with silicone Is it okay to use silicone to seal gas furnace heater supply ducts? If so, do you know how long the silicone will need to cure before the system is useable? Some background:I've been trawling around my basement recently and found that a lot of my duct connections have exceeded my wildest dreams of what poor craftsmanship looks like. Lots of connections were "sealed" using literal duct tape - which has since crusted off and is not holding on to anything. The joints where circular ducts attach to box ducts are the worst offenders. Thanks for your time. <Q> If your question is about the air ducts, why not use the correct material for the job, rather than silicone caulk. <S> Duct sealant is, literally, made for the job. <S> It also costs less, on a quick look. <A> All the cool kids are using mastic these days. <A> Silicone or the Duct Sealant are fine. <S> But, either need to be protected, faced, supported & sealed with Aluminum Foil Tape, the real duct tape. <S> Before anything though, you need to solidify your duct joints (supplies & returns), they can't slip apart or slide & deflect in any direction. <S> Just sink short self-tapping duct screws (sharp pointed ones, not the drill-head ones) through the joint's 2-pieces to lock everything together.
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Duct mastic or metal tape is the recommended method for sealing forced air supply ducts.
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PVC to metal joint leaking Some days ago I assembled the following joint using pipe dope (it is solvent based that semi hardens to a rubber like stuff). I waited 2 days to pressurise the system and after a few days it started leaking. How can I fix that? Edit : this is how it looks after disassembly: <Q> You should try TFE pipe thread joint tape. <S> This tape is a thin white film that you wind several times around the externally threaded part before screwing the parts together. <S> That particular one looks a little bit low quality as the molding marks show that the two halves of the mold did not line up perfectly which leads to the slight misalignment of the threads at the mold line plus the mold line itself. <S> This may be contributing to the leak problem. <A> You'll probably never get a good joint between metal and PVC, no matter what type of dope you use. <S> Instead, you'll want to use an adapter. <S> Something with metal threads on one end, and a PVC hub on the other. <A> You can fix this by removing any residue from this dope and re-joining with Whitlam's Industrial Grade 'Blue Magic' Pipe Thread Compound . <S> I frequently make joints just like you have on hot or cold water pipe with pressures up to 100 psi and have never had a leak at the joint. <S> This is quite expensive, 15-18$ for a 200 gm tin, but well worth it.
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I would suggest cleaning away as much of that dope material as possible before re-assembling with the the TFE tape. Also it may be well to look at the possibility of using a new PVC part.
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How to remove stains from tile? I have a very weird stain on the bathroom floor of an apartment I just moved into. Is there an easy way to remove this stain? Also, what is the material of this tile? Is it like a concrete tile? Or stone? <Q> I'd be inclined to try a thick paste of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and water applied and left overnight, then scrub, rinse, (rinsing is very important before moving on to the next step, if you need to go there) if stain still there move to chlorine laundry bleach. <S> Can't really tell from a picture if that's stone (a gray, concrete-like stone) or concrete. <A> I like to use a weak solution of Muriatic acid and water 10% acid. <S> Put it on the stain and rub it in, then rinse at least 3 times with fresh water 3 times. <S> Stronger solutions up to 30% can be used but it will etch the stone / cement tile. <S> Remember to always add acid to water. <S> Fresh air is always a good idea with any chemical and gloves. <S> Muriatic acid can be purchased at most home stores and all pool supply locations. <S> It is a good idea after dry to seal the tile. <A> If it is ceramic porcelain tile then it should be easier but you did say bathroom and tiles used for bathroom floors should be slip-resistant and that texture can make removing stains difficult. <S> Can you determine if it is an oily or waxy stain? <S> These kinds of stains respond best to non-water based solvents. <S> There are many out there in the paint section of home improvement stores and some of them can also cause staining of porous stone with a oily residue (turpentine for example). <S> Sometimes it takes one solvent to take out or loosen up a stain and other to take out the solvent. <S> Brushing with small brush immune to the solvent you are using and eye protection is helpful. <S> Or is more like a mineral or rust stain? <S> Organic stains like blood, beet juice, etc. <S> can sometimes be successfully removed with enzymatic spot cleaners for carpets, it can take a while. <S> I clean, WHITE (so dyes can't bleed out), terry cloth rag kept wet with the enzymatic cleaner for a while can do surprising things for some stains that seem impossible to remove. <S> Remember to avoid mixing chemicals that you don't know for sure can be mixed. <S> Always wear gloves that you know are compatible with the chemicals you use. <S> Protect your eyes. <S> You will be sorry if a splash or droplets from a brushes bristles reach your eyes. <S> Most solvents and other products I've mentioned are toxic so keep pets and kids away. <S> Open a window to avoid the build up of poisonous fumes. <A> For Coffee, tea, or juice: Wash your stains with detergent and hot water, then blot with hydrogen peroxide or diluted bleach. <S> For Gum, wax, or tar <S> : Put ice cubes in a resealable plastic bag and keep the bag on the material you want to remove from the tile. <S> Once the material is firmly formed, remove it as much as possible with a crafts stick. <S> Remove residual residue with paint thinner.
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Sulfamic acid is available in the tile section of home improvement stores and is used for taking haze, effervescence, rust and other mineral staining from tile. If it is stone tile then it is porous and can be very hard to remove some kinds of stains. Presumably if it was easy it would have been removed in the normal process of cleaning between tenants, unless the landlord doesn't bother with those minor details.
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What header size for a 36" wide window? I want to replace a 20" W window ( 20 5/8" rough) with a 36" (rough) window. I want it to be as close to the ceiling as possible. It is a single story house with 2x4 studs on 16" centers. It has a double top wall plate. Full size image here. What is the smallest size header I can use. The new window is 36" W x 12" H. (rough). <Q> it depends on a lot of things: 1) dead load above2) <S> live load <S> (do you get lots of snow, rain, etc.)3) <S> wall finish ( <S> for practical reasons you may have difficulty changing the header on a stucco wall, which is what it looks like from the cement stains on the interior of the sheathing boards)4) <S> material. <S> steel is much stronger than wood. <S> spruce is stronger than pine. <S> in a 2 x 4 wall, you can do a double header construction with a 5/8" ply liner between them as a spacer. <S> given this, the fact that you are increasing the span from 20" to 36", then the span will be almost twice what was there before, but its still only 36". <S> here in ontario, lintels under 2x8 are not permitted (table a-12), but your span is so small it doesn't even fit the minimum requirements. <S> just use a doubled 2x8. <S> its overkill, but thats the best way to build anything. <A> Without knowing more about the construction of the house, I'd replace it with the same size header. <S> I don't recall seeing header span tables that go lower than 4' spans, but the sizing depends on the supported load. <S> You can find a set of span tables at southernpine.com , but most loading scenarios for that span are going to call for a doubled 2x8 at minimum. <S> If that's a doubled 2x10 there now, I'd assume that you'd need a doubled 2x10 for the new window. <A> but if it just holding up a roof it would depend on the span of the roof and the species of wood in your header. <S> A double 2 x 6 header should be safe but check with your local inspectors with a phone call. <S> I <S> you want the window as high as possible throw a piece of steel angle as a lintel with double 2 x 4s <S> , be sure the angle is over the jack stud for full bearing.
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generally, you need a 2x6 double header minimum for just about any scenario, so if you are worried about it, go to a double 2x8. If this is holding up a floor and a roof those I would not go less than what is there now
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What can I do "spread" load on breaker for single bedroom? Thanks for the help ahead of time. I'm not a certified electrician, but have VERY extensive experience working construction and repair. I do know quite a bit about electrical, but I'm not sure if I'm pushing my house breaker and fuses by doing what I'm going to do. I work from home and need quite a bit of equipment installed in my office. I have an 850w computer and 5 servers in a cabinet that I want to install. I also have a window A/C unit. This is all running on 110v wall sockets. I have the A/C unit on its own socket. I have the high powered computer running on its own socket, and I have one free wall socket left. There are two 8-port surge protectors in the server cabinet. I plan on using those both on the 3rd available wall socket. Is this safe? Right now the computer and A/C aren't making the breaker hot. The do cause a minor light flicker when they turn on. Nothing too serious, but I don't want to set my house on fire. I also don't want to pay $1000.00 to run a dedicated breaker box to my office. Is there anything I can do at the panel to make this safer? Perhaps change the breaker and fuses to something that can handle more juice? <Q> If not, you could install a second panel, or try and free up space in the existing panel. <S> If you have room for additional circuits, I'd recommend putting the A/C unit on its own circuit. <S> Because through normal use, the A/C unit will introduce surges and noise on the line. <S> This is undesirable on circuits with sensitive electronics such as computers, so you should avoid having the A/C on the same circuit, if possible. <S> If you're seeing dimming lights when the A/C comes on, it's likely due to voltage drop. <S> This voltage drop is caused, because the A/C is drawing a large amount of current when the unit starts up. <S> This drop in voltage can be damaging to sensitive electronics. <S> If possible; and depending on the load requirements, I'd recommend using three circuits. <S> One for the A/C, one for the servers, and one general use circuit for the PC, monitors, and various other office equipment. <A> First of all, if you are only getting 110V at your electrical outlets (i.e. "wall sockets"), then there is likely something wrong with your electric system. <S> Most AC in the US is 120V or higher (+/- <S> 5V). <S> Secondly, your outlets may ALL be connect to the same electrical circuit. <S> You should switch off your breaker/s & test each outlet for power to determine which circuit each outlet is connected to. <S> Then you must determine the breaker Amp rating for each circuit that is used by your equipment. <S> Then you must compute the wattage that is available for each circuit (e.g. 120V*15A=1800W). <S> Next you must ensure your peak wattage from ALL of the devices that you plan to connect to each circuit will not exceed the available watts for each circuit. <S> Re: <S> "Is it safe"? <S> If everything is functioning properly (no breakers are tripping) during the hottest period of the year, then everything will probably be ok. <S> re: <S> "Is there anything I can do at the panel to make this safer? <S> Perhaps change the breaker and fuses to something that can handle more juice? <S> " <S> I recommend you DO NOT change the breaker or fuses because your wiring may not be able to handle the increase in current (which causes heat & insulation breakdown--which leads to short-circuit conditions & fire). <S> The best thing that you can do is balance your loads on multiple circuits (if you have them) & do NOT exceed your power limits for each circuit or your breaker <S> /s will trip increasingly often, fail, & then need to be replaced. <S> If you don't have enough power, you will either need to replace some of your devices with lower power devices or get new power brought into the area where you need it. <S> hth, best regards! <A> How much power does each server pull? <S> Regardless, to go ahead and plug it in. <S> I'm glad that you're asking before the breaker trips, unlike many, but without knowing the load, this will essentially be your break point. <S> Currently you've more than likely got a 20A breaker. <S> This means that the wires in the wall are rated to carry 20A and the devices on the circuit (the three receptacles) are rated 20A. The wires can carry a little more, but the rating of them goes with the idea that running them over their rated amperage for too long will cause them to burn up (same for the devices). <S> It breaks the circuit when it is trying to pull too much power so that you don't burn up the wires, you're devices, and potentially your house. <S> What I'm getting at, is that upsizing your breaker doesn't give you more power. <S> It's not there to control the flow <S> , your wires are, it's simply there to protect your wires. <S> The only solution would be to add more circuits or upsize the wiring, all devices, and the breaker. <S> If not, you'll have to take one of these options. <A> Consider putting the servers in another room. <S> One with separate circuit. <S> Or, run a good quality full rated extension cord (gasp!) from another room. <A> One possibility for freeing a little power in the room: Replace any incandescent bulbs with either CFL or LED bulbs that produce the same amount of light (while using less power). <S> Replace any CFL or long fluorescent bulbs with LED bulbs that produce the same amount of light (while using less power). <S> I doubt if this will free enough power for your situation, but it's something to try if some other method only gets close to what you need.
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Installing a larger breaker is likely not an option, unless the wiring, devices, and equipment are all rated for the higher current (not likely). Depending on the load requirements of the servers, it may be desirable to install an additional separate circuit to handle them. If there's room in the panel, you could run additional circuits. This is where a breaker comes in. If your circuit can handle the load as is, you'll be fine.
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Joists have different height I'm first time homeowner and bought a house (built in 1999) in fall of 2015 (Philadelphia suburb). During inspection of the house I noticed squeaky floors and inspector said its due to nails rubbing against the joist making the noise and its minor issue. The other day I was in the basement (unfinished) to check floor sections which squeaked the most. Just out of curiosity I put 4 feet level at the bottom of the joists (across joists) and to my surprise there were gap between joists and the level (for the most joists I checked) - it range from 1/8 to 1/2. I don't see any sag on length of the joists but level is off across the joists. Joists are resting on sill plate and its in good condition (no rotting or anything). Joists are 2X10 (not engineered joist) and they do not span more than 16 feet. To me it seems like joists are of different height/depth. When you look at the cross section of the joist - it appears they have bend slightly (like forming letter C if you see the end of joist - but very slight). I don't see any signs of house settling, basement is poured concrete and no cracks or anything like that. Basement is currently dry but I'm not sure if previous owner had any moisture issue in the basement in past or not (although quite elaborate battery backup sump pump for unfinished basement may be due to some water issues in past, will find out in spring). Floor sheathing is 3/4" (i think plywood and osb). Most of load bearing walls (like second floor wall) tend to line up against perimeter of the foundation or the metal beam that passes through middle of the basement. We started notice that some section of the main floor is uneven and we are observing similar issues on second floor as well (first floor and second floor unevenness do not match). I'm guessing its due to joists of having different height. In general house is leveled - inspector checked with level at few spots. I checked with 4 feet level and found some high and low spots on the floor (may 1/8 to 1/4 hi/low spots) and those spot run across the joist. Is there any way to fix this? Is this a very serious issue - like house is falling apart - this is my first house so I don't know what's normal and what's very serious issue. I know foundation settling is a big issue and I ask inspector to check on it during house purchase process and he thought house foundation and framing is pretty sound (what ever his opinion worth...). Most of the house is carpeted - so I was thinking about using those squeak end kit (where you drive the screw in joist and take off the top part). But with uneven joist - would it make the floor even more uneven? Is there any other way to stop squeak? Carpet in some area is really bad and I thought I would install laminated floor in near future. But with uneven floor I don't think it will work well. what would be best flooring option for uneven floors (other than carpet and vynal)? I'm not in finical situation to hire a contractor or a structural inspector to access the situation in near term, if this is a serious issue what time frame I should consider to address it? Thanks in advance. <Q> Dimensional lumber when green can vary in size depending on the day it is cut as it dries it gets worse because some beams are tighter grain than others. <S> Since you have good access you could shim the areas that have the squeak with wood shims . <S> Put some gorilla glue or wood glue on the shims and slide 1 in from either side. <S> Don’t drive them in two far or the squeak will move. <S> This is normal for dimensional lumber joist. <S> Many builders now use LVL I beams to create a squeak less floors. <S> By taking a few hours and shimming the gaps your floors will feel solid and the cost is minimal. <S> If you screw down without the shims the problem will get worse and your floor will show the uneven surface. <A> This is probably just a sign of low quality construction, but nothing to worry about. <S> A 2x10 over a 16' span will commonly have some cupping where it is bent slightly in one direction. <S> With a long level, a slight difference between two boards may be magnified depending on how you hold the level, so I'd only be surprised by a 1/2" difference if that's between two other joists, rather than one of the ends of the level. <S> You may also need to account for load from furniture above which may be deflecting some joists. <S> A better quality builder is going to do two things that will make this less visible. <S> First, they'd use glue and screws. <S> They take longer to install, but the result is no squeaking. <S> Nails are faster to install, and that time is money for the builders. <S> Second, the builder is going to check each of the joists for cupping before installing, avoid using the worst joists, and make sure all the cups are facing the same direction, up in the middle. <S> They may even install wood blocking between the joists to transfer the load, which would reduce any difference in deflection from one joist to the next under load. <S> With your existing flooring, the screws you're looking at should help a lot. <S> For future flooring, you'd need to look at the floor without carpeting to judge how level it is from above. <S> You may be able to improve things with an extra layer of plywood with the joints offset. <S> And if there are any extreme dips between two joists, you can sister a second joist on to the existing one at the correct height and screw the floor into that. <A> Joists of varying height are only a concern if the floor (or ceiling) is wavy as a result. <S> It's not a structural issue. <S> Screws are a good way to remedy the problem of squeaks and creaks. <S> Be careful that they don't grab the carpet fibers and zip a row out. <S> Run them in slowly, and open the fibers to expose the mesh before you start each one. <S> I'd use construction adhesive as well. <S> I generally agree with BMitch's answer, though around here we used 8d (nominal) ring-shank gun nails and construction adhesive for the subfloor. <S> I've never seen one squeak. <S> Where I am seeing squeaks in my current home is where the floor flexes under adjacent walls. <S> the smooth nails holding the bottom plates down creak. <S> I've had to run screws up from underneath to remedy some of that. <S> I'd use a self-leveler where you have noticeable undulation and want to install laminate. <S> That stuff is generally fairly accommodating Cupping is unavoidable.
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It can also help to drive shims under the subfloor from below in cases where a particular joist is low. It's not a concern. It happens after construction as well.
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How to insulate register boot? The county inspector dinged me on a couple of things for my bonus room renovation. One of these things is wrapping the register boots (endpoints) in insulation. I've seen registers with this insulation already installed, but he mentions that batted insulation is fine. The reason for this is to supposedly reduce the condensation leaking outside the boot and onto the wooden frame, joist, and sheetrock. Any idea what you folks do to accomplish this? I have some old R-6 flex duct insulation and some foil tape and was planning to wrap the batt around the boot and tape it up with foil tape. <Q> You're thinking about this too much. <S> The goal is to reduce air contact with the metal. <S> Condensation is greatly reduced by doing so, and your obligation is fulfilled. <A> its a little hard to tell what you have going on. <S> i am assuming these are ceiling hot air vents in a room below an insulated attic space. <S> use 2" styrofoam board to build a "form" aroun the register termination (tighter the better to use as little foam as possible). <S> you want to do it <S> so the adjacent joists and the foam act like a box around the ductwork. <S> then inject sprayfoam into all the places you can get it. <S> this way you have an r7 or higher (depends on the foam) box that is not only insulated but airtight. <S> this is the best way to do it and here in ontario (and it meets the new revised code specs) <S> we have lots of these types of reno special heating systems that run insulated ducts through an attic. <A> you have to understand the dynamics involved. <S> the goal is not just insulation, but intactness of the vapour barrier. <S> you can have all the insulation in the world and it will do you no good if you allow nice warm air to enter into the insulation pocket. <S> the warm air cools as it permeates the batt and eventually starts to cool. <S> once it drops to the dewpoint of the air, the trapped moisture in the air precipitates out and now you have wet insulation. <S> when the cold air in the uninsulated space reaches the wet insulation you are going to get ice. <S> then the cycle repeats, ever closer to your inner heated space. <S> if it warms up, the ice melts and now you have wet insulation. <S> gravity and capillary action draw the moisture through the batt and eventually you have moisture up against the wood and drywall. <S> if you use batting and don't ensure the air barrier is intact, you will make a problem for yourself. <S> you can do it with batting and very careful use of sealing tape and caulking. <S> why bother? <S> polyurethane foam is used for a reason. <S> its a great insulator that doesn't lose r-value over time and its airtight right out of the gate. <S> just foam it. <S> the foam blocking or forming <S> i described is just to minimize the amount of liquid foam you have to use. <S> you can use straight spray foam if you want as well, its just more costly. <S> your time and money.
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Simply get yourself some R-11 or R-13 fiberglass batts and pack the joist or ceiling space loosely around each vent component.
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Self-leveling alternatives to gypsum concrete (Gyp-Crete, Pyrofill, Securock) over OSB? Replacement options for < 1.5 inch pour? Details: Bathroom remodel (new tub, tile wall/floor, toilet, vanity). Old tile floor came up with finger pressure, found that the gypsum concrete underneath was unstable, coming off in large loose pieces, and mildewed. Removed all gypsum concrete in the small bathroom. OSB is in great shape. Supplemental goal to install underfloor radiant heating. <Q> Best option is shims and plywood. <S> That being said, you're asking for a self leveling option. <S> like: http://www.lowes.com/pd/MAPEI-Gray-and-Silver-Indoor-Floor-Patch-and-Leveler/1180155 <S> Also, most of these 'concretes' are safe for electrical radiant flooring installations. <A> If you have a 1.5” pour why not use fine aggregate cement? <S> If your radiant heat is water tube based tack your tubes to the subfloor and pour. <S> If it is electrical, make sure to follow the MFG recommendations. <S> Some tapes can be bedded in the cement and this helps even out the heat. <S> One tape I used had to be covered and the covering almost doubled the install cost. <S> As long as your cement is not way two wet it will be fine. <S> In my opinion a stronger floor that last the longest. <A> I prefer the high performance cement for these applications. https://m.lowes.com/pd/High-Performance-Cement-by-Quikrete-Cement-Mix/50146060
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We generally don't recommend self leveling alternatives on a substrate other than concrete, vibrations over time can affect their stability. Your best bet would self leveling concrete, you'll need to pay attention to the substrate requirements, it says it accepts certain wood based substrates, however compare their requirements to your situation.
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Is any of this plumbing work a code violation? I've repaired plenty of pre-existing plumbing, but don't know enough to put all new plumbing in a house, so I hired it out. Some of it it is fine, but I'm unhappy with the rest of it, and since I'm not a plumber, I don't know exactly what may be a code violation. 1) PEX was routed outside the wall and can't be sheetrocked. 2) Plastic tees and elbows were used instead of brass. 3) The best way to run PEX is with the smallest number of failure points possible. It would be great to have home-runs to each fixture, but I knew that wasn't going to be the case here. However, there are some runs of PEX that have 4-6 splices in them that are totally unnecessary. 4) Underneath the house (unconditioned crawl) none of the PEX is insulated, and some of it is lying on the ground. 5) The water supply was brought up through an exterior wall, right up against the exterior of the stud and sheathing. Aren't they supposed to go through the center of the stud and install nailing plates? I'm not a plumber and don't know codes, which is why I hired this out instead of doing it myself. Are any of these code violations? EDIT: I should have added that a permit was pulled for this work, and it passed a rough-in inspection. <Q> All plumbing should be inside walls in finished space or it should be installed in a way that protects the joints and protects from punctures. <S> Who cares? <S> I never heard of plumbing failing because of elbows. <S> If you wanted this you should have been watching him during it. <S> Or another option is to just write it into the contract so you can set expectation. <S> As it stands you do not know which extra connections were actually needed or not. <S> 4-5. <S> Have local inspector come out to OK it. <S> Don't pay plumber until it passes inspection. <S> And to answer your question 1, 4, and 5 sound like they are code violations <S> but we don't understand enough to call these violations. <S> For instance I can run pex in a crawl space in Texas, I can run pex in a laundry room outside framing (still not good practice), and you can run plumbing in most places in exterior walls (not good practice and most inspectors would want to see a reasonable level of insulation). <A> What are you going to do? <S> Accuse the plumber of being a no-good hack who uses the cheapest possible materials in the fastest possible amount of time? <S> You just described 99% of the plumbers and electricians in the United States. <S> Doing your own work is the only way to quality control. <S> Most plumbers have their brains so completely hard-wired on cheap that attempting to have them execute a high-quality job is absolutely futile. <S> You have to understand that 99% of customers want the absolute cheapest possible fix, so there is simply no business available for high-quality plumbers and electricians. <S> Once I asked a plumber a question about silver soldering and he didn't even know what that was. <A> Wow! <S> You're positively right! <S> That's absolutely horrible work & don't be surprised if there are multiple leaks! <S> A "pro" did a simple 20-foot run in "foolproof" Pex at my parents for <S> a garden hose relocation unbeknownst to me & everything leaked very badly. <S> I think you'd be far better off complaining to the Code, Building, Permit or Zoning Dept. <S> Otherwise, definitely complain to the Contractor & have them stop using scraps in your place & at least leave you with an installation that's drywall ready & behind the surface in the center of the studs. <S> Totally inexcusable!
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If the work was complete, the plumbing operates, and you did not negotiate beforehand any quality standards or material restrictions, then you have nothing to complain about. Get the Inspector out to review everything & to let you know definitely if they're Licensed & their work is "somehow" legal & proper.
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Ethernet LAN disconnects after turning off kitchen tubelight or fan Whenever my kitchen tube light or fan is turned off or on my Ethernet LAN disconnects. How could they interfere with the the Ethernet? My Laptop is connected only to LAN Ethernet cable What could cause this to disconnect? <Q> Ethernet LAN wire coming from local internet provider <S> Your profile says you're in India. <S> It also sounds like your ISP has an Ethernet wire that runs into your dwelling <S> (I suspect this is an apartment). <S> I further suspect they ran the cheaper Cat 5e inside the building. <S> Fluorescent lighting produces a fair amount of electromagnetic interference. <S> Unfortunately, since you didn't run the wiring yourself, there's no easy fixes here. <S> If you had run them, I would make sure you keep the Ethernet away from the electrical. <S> I would also run Cat 6, since it affords better shielding. <S> Putting the wire inside conduit would also offer better shielding. <A> Presuming wifi, since you didn't say where the disconnect occurs... <S> Sounds like they're producing radio noise when turned off -- not uncommon -- snd that your wifi drivers or hardware or xdrivers or applications are much worse than most at retrying after packets wdre garbled. <A> I've seen this before with leased modems from the broadband company. <S> The modem lacks appropriate filters to keep out noises, or its existing filters aren't cutting it. <S> Try relocating network hardware to different circuit, and/or replacing fan.
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My bet is that the Ethernet parallels either the light fixture or the electrical wiring in general (I could easily see the latter being done to save costs by cutting corners).
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How many lights do I need for my basement? Basement is 550 sq ft. 11x50 with a 7 ft ceiling. Am planning on using recessed LEDs since the ceiling is already completed. <Q> 11' x 50' is a rather odd shape but lighting it is done like any other space, <S> Is it one big entertainment space? <S> Is it a combination media area (tv on one side) and play area? <S> Is part of it an office that will need task lighting? <S> Before even considering how many or how bright the fixtures are, imagine yourself using the space. <S> One common rule of thumb is 1.5x the square footage in incandescent watts, i.e. if you are lighting up all 550 sq feet you will need about 825 equivalent watts, or 14 60 watt fixtures. <S> If part of it is just a media area that won't need a great deal of light you can reduce the fixtures in that section and focus on the other areas. <S> Edit for future-proofing: to consider this in lumens, a living space is best lit with 20 lumens per square foot and LEDs that range from 750-850 lumens per fixture would therefore require 14-15 fixtures to fully light the area. <A> This would be for an even distribution of light for the space with fixtures that are around 700 lumens (the ones for calculations use 11W) - something similar to these: http://www.lowes.com/pd_599032-59179-DLS15-06F27D1E-WH-F2_1z0vgcuZ1z10d2u__?productId=999919852&pl=1 <S> At a 20 fc lighting level throughout the space (18 total for 198W): <S> At a 30 fc lighting level throughout the space (27 total for 297W): Lighting isn't a set item, even these numbers shown include a lot of independent variables. <S> However if you then want some features to be illuminated for focus, such as the bar, you'd need to consider this and have higher lumen fixtures throughout that area or closer spacing of the fixtures. <S> Also, even the finishes of the walls, floor, etc. can affect the lighting or diminish it. <S> 20-30 fc is probably a good level to go by for general lighting that will allow you to do anything in your new room, but you can include dimmer switches if you'd also like. <S> Based on the comments, I've included even lower fc levels that might suit the situation a little better intentionally for just sitting around and watching tv. <S> Again though, you'll never be able to get more than this overall level, but if you went higher you could always dim it down. <S> And the last point to remember here is that lighting is a gradient. <S> Directly under the lights throughout will always be the brightest spots and this will fade out towards the walls. <S> The reason you use additional lights is to create a uniform room wide lighting level. <S> When you get down to the lower quantities, you'll still get an average fc level of what is shown, but it will always be darker the farther that you get from the lights (the corners and such as shown in the 5 fc range). <S> 15 fc: <S> 10 fc: <S> 5 fc: <A> Hard question to answer with so little information, but I'll bite. <S> 5x2 or 6x2 grid, spaced equally. <S> (2 across because your ceiling is low.) <S> Consider splitting them into "this half" and "that half", depending on your usage. <S> Put them on a dimmer. <A> Here's a good description for full light. <S> But, it depends what you're after. <S> Do you want to be able to read everywhere or do you want the typical cave-like feeling (I mean "drama") of recessed lights. <S> & it's a huge waste but aside from low profile surface fixtures <S> I'd agree that it's your only best option for such a low ceiling. <S> You might be able to cut the number down to 20, 18 or maybe 16, but the height of the ceiling limits the light's fan or spread pretty severely. <A> OP has probably finished this project years ago. <S> But it you do this today you should consider LED strip lights. <S> Search for images of "basement LED strip lights" to get some ideas.
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The fixtures used (look for their lumen outputs) will change just how many you would need to create a sweeping, uniform light level. first and foremost consider what you will be doing and where you will be doing it. 28 or 22-lights (for full light) may seem like a lot & it is
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Basement insulation w/ existing tar paper and studs I recently pulled off old wood paneling in my basement, and would like to insulate it using rigid foam (silverboard or durofoam). Behind the panelling, there is tar paper, and 1x2" studs approximately every 1.5 feet. I see the tar paper as extra protection/moisture barrier, and am inclined to install the rigid foam over top. I have gotten such a range of advice on this... Option 1) keep tar and studs, fasten rigid board on top leaving a 1-inch air gap between the wall and foam - and build a frame in front of foam for drywall. Option 2) remove tar paper and all studs, adhere foam directly to cement wall and build out from there. Option 3) remove studs, adhere foam to tar paper directly. Option 4) cut foam to fit between existing studs and use tuck tape and expandable foam to fill in spots. Does anyone have experience with this type of situation? The home is 65 years old, and we live in zone 6 for weather. Spray foam is not an option for us. Thank you! <Q> Building Science Corporation recommends the following model these days for basement insulation: rigid foam (or spray foam) directly against wall stud wall (I prefer steel...easier to put up, no mold substrate, really lightweight) <S> finished wall (I prefer paperless sheetrock again, to avoid having a place for mold to grow) <S> Note the absence of any vapor barrier...of which tarpaper could be considered one. <S> The foam board acts as a vapor retarder <S> so it slows moisture movement, but doesn't completely prevent it in case one side has to dry to the other. <S> For more details, see my answer on this question: Should I use steel or wood studs for basement exterior walls? <A> Option 2 is the best or only sound advice. <S> Here's a class on what's been determined . <S> You can skip the "adhering" of the foam boards & have the stud walls hold it in place without issue. <S> If prefabricating the stud walls to be tipped up into place, then the foam boards can be sparingly screwed to the back of the stud wall & then seams can be spray foamed & taped from the back. <A> Given that this is just nailing strips for the prior wood paneling, there's no reason to try insulating around them. <S> Pull them off and make a continuous insulation barrier for the best efficiency, or frame up new walls and insulate between them if space is a large concern. <S> The tar paper is keeping moisture off of the wood nailing strips, so there's no need for it with the foam insulation. <S> As DA01 points out in the comments, the foam board is only a vapor retarder, and I wouldn't suggest the only vapor barrier being on the outside wall since this can result in condensation problems. <S> So of all the options presented, it looks like option 2 is the best. <S> Assuming you are going to frame a new wood wall in front of the insulation, do take care to separate the wood base plate from the concrete floor. <S> This can be done by extending a moisture barrier from up the wall 6" <S> or so, out to the floor and under where your new wall will be located. <S> There are also foam gasket products that you can buy in roles to install under the base plate.
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If building the stud walls in place you'd just temporarily tack the wall's top plate in to hold the foam boards for you while you tape &/or spray foam seams & gaps.
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Rust on copper pipe at strap I have a few places on 1/2 copper water pipes in my basement that look rusted, right where a strap is. Should I be concerned enough about a leak to replace the line? <Q> I'd replace the strap with a copper strap placed adjacent and clean up the copper pipe before deciding. <A> I completely agree with aaron! <S> Additionally & it may just be me, but it looks like it's nailed into ductwork. <S> If so, then this should NOT be repeated. <S> A much better option would be to screw-on a 1x2 (or whatever) <S> deeply notched or slotted piece of wood to the end of that 2x4... <S> a flat or straight piece of wood is fine but you'll want to put RedGrittyBrick's copper clamp on top of it to lock the pipe in & down. <S> Actually clean & sand or very cautiously & lightly grind that copper pipe to remove all foreign contaminants. <S> Screw a plastic spacer (using the old duct nail holes) between the pipe & duct work or seal the duct holes & wrap the pipe liberally (to make a space) with electrical or duct tape around the cleaned pipe. <S> Repeat this &/or <S> RedGrittyBrick's instruction at all other <S> very big & yes leak waiting to happen problem areas. <A> Very often a situation like this is an early warning, that indicates you've got a serious galvanic action going on inside the pipe as well. <S> If your system isn't grounded properly and the anode's spent, you could end up with thousands of pinholes all through the whole system, and thousands of dollars of repair expenses. <S> Catch that NOW <S> and you'll be fine. <S> So, make sure you have a thick copper jumper wire between the inlet and outlet pipes of your water heater (and across the inlet and outlet pipes of your water meter if you're on city water) and check the sacrificial anode on your water heater. <S> If you don't understand what that means, google the hell out of it. <S> Make sure you replace all those steel clamps even if you do find that your anode needs replacement. <S> There should be no steel in contact with your copper lines if you can possibly avoid it.
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I expect it is superficial, copper tarnishes rather than rusting and pinhole leaks start from the inside.
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Leakage in my pipes, how to densify/seal? I've never built with pipes before so maybe I'd need some general advice regarding leakage. On a specific note, I've built a system (see picture) where it leaks practically everywhere. I've sealed it with NASTRO P.T.F.E tape on some places where it seems to work. I've screwed the pipe parts very hard so it shouldn't leak but it does.. a lot. It seems unreasonable that I need to use NASTRO tape everywhere. How do professionals do it? My bathrooom pipes doesn't have any tape, what are they doing differently? Edit (25th of march): <Q> You should be using fittings that are applicable to the application, and should not be mixing and matching thread types. <S> If you need to go from a fitting with tapered threads, to a fitting with straight threads. <S> Then you should use an appropriate adapter. <S> I'm not sure why you're anti-PTFE tape. <S> It's cheap, easy to use, and works well. <S> In fact, PTFE tape reduces the friction in the threaded joint. <S> This allows you to get the joint tighter, which lets the fittings seat together properly. <S> This is especially effective with tapered threads, though can also help seat straight thread fittings as long as it's not over applied. <S> When working with straight threads, you'll find that paste dopes work better than tape dopes. <S> If you're looking to design a system that can be disassembled, and reassembled often. <S> Then you're going to want to use fittings that don't rely on the threads to make the seal. <S> The fittings may be held in place by threads, but the seal itself should be independent of the threads. <S> If the seal is dependent on washers and/or O-rings, you'll want to be careful ow much you tighten it down. <A> Hold the tape in your left hand – to avoid running it the wrong way and having it unravel as you start threading. <S> If you can bottom-out four adapters into each other, they're likely all the right thread type, you just didn't use enough tape. <S> IME, warping it three times is sufficient. <S> On fittings that don't like to cooperate, you may need substantially more to make the seal. <S> When applying the tape, you should only stretch it with enough pressure to let it sink into the threads. <S> If you pull any harder, you'll cheat the depth of the wrap. <S> Finish it by seating it well with your thumb or rolling it in your palm. <S> I see in the picture only a pair of pliers and no crescent wrench or pipe wrench. <S> I'd have said that was your problem, except that you somehow managed to bottom-out those fittings, so my vote is they're just loosey-goosey. <S> Note, with enough tape on them to seal and without the proper wrench, you might never get it airtight. <S> I don't bother to pressure test a fitting that BOs, I already know <S> it's going to leak. <S> I just take it apart and: <S> Use more tape. <S> When you pipe-fit , you're looking for the tension to become progressively stronger (to the unexplainable point that has ever been expressed to me as, <S> "that's good" ; it only comes via experience), if it all of a sudden stops , you're likely in trouble. <S> ( source ) <S> Imagine standing to the left of the photo. <S> Hold the pipe in your right hand and the tape in your left, and it's basically impossible to do it the wrong way. <S> It is recommended, as shown above, not to cover the first two threads <S> but I do anyway. <S> Having built up a good wrap at the rear threads, I'd finish it off with a warp or two around the starter threads, so that it looks like this: ( source ) <A> Sorry for my original answer Lennart. <S> I was thinking the red thing was an upside down compressed air tank & this was all pneumatics, though I did see your plumbing reference initially. <S> That's a lot of fittings & looking at it <S> a 4th time, you look fine on matched fittings. <S> However they do look thread bottomed, meaning you're out of threads for anymore tightening. <S> That would be the reason for leaks & you <S> really shouldn't need tape much of anywhere. <S> The "plumbing secret" is rubber type stuff. <S> You need a lot of Washers &/or O-rings to make this work, at just hand-tight, without a single drip. <S> You'll have to get a box of "Assorted Washers &/or O-rings" at the store since none seem to have come with any of the fittings. <S> Measure the receiving cup for sizes you'll be after. <S> Washers for wide cup shoulders (if any) & O-rings for very narrow cup shoulders. <S> I don't know what you're doing & of course <S> I know you don't know what you're doing, but the brass item & the 1 or 2 fittings on either side don't seem necessary. <S> I thought it was a ball valve, but I can't make out a handle anywhere.
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PTFE tape is not specifically designed to seal threads, even though that's how it's commonly thought of. Crushing and/or deforming the washer/O-ring, can actually cause leaks.
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What is the correct way to tile a wall when there are existing electrical sockets I will be tiling a backsplash in my kitchen. Currently there is none, and the new backsplash will cover areas that currently have electric sockets. So my question is this do you: Remove front cover of socket, tile slightly over the back box and then put the front back, will now require longer screws because of gap between front and back box) or Remove front cover of socket, pull the back box out slightly so the front of the backbox is flush with the front of the tiles, tile up to the edge of the backbox, screw front plate back on to the front of the backbox. <Q> Most electric receptacles are installed into the box with long screws that have a special backing washer. <S> The washer is there to hold out the receptacle, so you can loosen the screws until your receptacle is flush with the outer surface of the wall. <S> The face plate is then fastened to the receptacle. <S> In the US, the screws from the receptacle to box are at the top and bottom of the box (or left and right if mounted horizontally) and the faceplate attaches in the center for a typical outlet, and at top & bottom for switches, GFCI outlets, and many newer-style outlets and switches. <S> Here's an example of an outlet that has been set to protrude a bit outside the box: <S> Note that you should tile around the edge of the box <S> - don't tile right up to the edges of the receptacle within. <S> The faceplate will cover past the edges of the box. <S> If your tile layer is too thick for this simple approach, you may need to move your electrical box out. <S> If you have old work boxes (the kind that are installed by clamping or screwing into the wall), you may be able to loosen them and re-mount them once you've tiled. <S> If your boxes are fastened to structure, you won't be able to adjust them - you'll have to cut them out and mount new ones. <S> Because you're redoing the wall surface, this isn't a huge deal. <S> But there is a shortcut available, the electrical box extender: <S> As you can see, that's designed for exactly your case. <A> You want your outlet straps to be either sitting on the tile or level with the tile. <S> The physical part where you plug something in should be fully extend past any cover that you add. <S> Steps: <S> Turn off power to those outlets. <S> (or leave power on, let electricity travel through thinset and trowel, shock you and then trowel jumps up <S> and you have a permanent scar on your thumb) <S> Unscrew the outlets from box. <S> Install tile. <S> Add in spacers behind your outlet mounting straps. <S> Test out depth of outlet with tile. <S> I suggest also screwing in the cover. <S> You may need longer mounting screws but most new outlets have very long mounting screws and this usually isn't an issue. <S> When you are done your cover should lay flat on tile and outlet should protrude at a normal depth. <S> This isn't an exact science, and you can eyeball the need for more spacers or less spacers if your cover doesn't go on. <S> Big blue sells the neon ones and big orange sells these black spacers . <A> We opted for longer screws. <S> When we decided to tile our kitchen, we made these decisions along the way. <S> We're both creatives and are usually adept with making educated guesses that turn out beautiful in the end. <S> Our inexperience tiling on a vertical surface (with outlets) resulted with the jagged edges around the box. <S> Thus, we created our own switch plates. <S> I made them larger to hide the imperfections and the result is stunning.
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If you can get enough extra distance out of those, then you can tile right up to the edge of the electrical box. This way the receptacle can be accessed if needed. It's preferable to have a properly mounted box, but when that is not practical this gives you an easy alternative.
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Is notching a flange on an I-Joist ever acceptable? My home builder said that the following notch in a flange on an I-Joist was acceptable, but I've read that you're never supposed to do so. Is that true? <Q> According to this document (PDF) , accidental notches in the top flange may not need to be repaired if they meet specific criteria. <S> To determine if a repair is required, we'd need a bit more information, including: <S> The distance from the center of the notch to the end of the beam. <S> The depth of the notch. <S> The specific beam used, including beam height. <S> If a repair is required, it may be as simple as gluing and nailing on a 2x4 and some backing material. <S> This repair can be placed on either side of the beam, so in your case, it could be done on the side opposite the pipe. <S> Note that the building code specifically says " unless the effects of such penetrations are specifically considered in the design of the member ". <S> This means that the manufacturer of the beam is the one that determines what type and how much damage requires repair. <S> IRC R502.8.2 Engineered wood products. <S> Cuts, notches and holes bored in trusses, laminated veneer lumber, gluelaminated members or I-joists are not permitted unless the effects of such penetrations are specifically considered in the design of the member . <S> If you don't trust the advice of your builder, or simply want a second opinion, you could contact the local building department, and see if they'll come take a look. <S> Contacting a structural engineer is another option, though I'm sure you'll have to pay them for their time. <S> While damage to these types of beams is concerning, it's better to seek professional assistance, rather than relying on the lunatic rantings of a bunch of dimwits on the internet. <S> Now that you're done reading the lunatic rantings of this dimwit, seek the advice of somebody with a framed piece of paper on their wall. <A> Point your home builder to page 9 of Weyerhauser's I-joist document here . <S> See the bottom right of the page where it says "DO NOT cut or notch flange" <S> It is typical of all I-joist manufacturers' installation documents. <S> As Iggy pointed out, the I-Joist in question needs to be reinforced similar to a cantilever reinforcement. <S> To fix this, the electrical wires need to be moved to allow the joist to be sandwiched between pieces of OSB, if the pipe is moved, or at the very least have a piece of OSB attached to the backside of this spot. <S> See the I-Joist installation document for how to reinforce for a cantilever. <S> Then, make sure to back charge the plumber for the repair. <S> Good luck! <A> Only if you're a "professional" plumber. <S> Cut twice as much & then measure, <S> hey lookie there just like they did in your place. <S> Seriously no, <S> you're completely right <S> the <S> I's of I-joists <S> are <S> NEVER to be touched nor any holes within 3" of the top or bottom edges. " <S> Responsible" plumbers & builders re-spec a toilet with a deeper stand-off or just pull it out enough to avoid any structural DAMAGE . <S> Either the entire OSB height (or okay down to the wires) needs to be sandwiched in plywood on both sides for at least 2' before & beyond the error (or as far as you can get to 2'). <S> Or, a single 4' long 2x6 should be bolted to the OSB abutting the offending structural blemish. <S> IRC R502.8.2 Engineered wood products. <S> – <S> What are the guidelines for holes in joists?
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Cuts, notches and holes bored in trusses, laminated veneer lumber, gluelaminated members or I-joists are not permitted unless the effects of such penetrations are specifically considered in the design of the member.
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Rail bookshelves on a wall with steel studs I want to mount bookshelves on rails in my office. My office manager says that the walls are "drywall on steel studs" on one side; plaster and lathe over "thin steel studs" on the other. What are my options for mounting? I assume I want to screw directly into the studs - but with what? Just a standard screw? Togglebolt? Note: I am in earthquake country (California). This is sort of what I want to do: <Q> There's no such thing as a "standard" screw. <S> Every type of screw has a particular purpose. <S> In this case you do want to screw into the steel studs, and therefore you want a screw with a thread pitch and depth to suit. <S> Most screws provided with shelving systems are better suited to wood studs. <S> The first problem that you're likely to encounter is that the "standards" (vertical rails) are usually countersunk to accept a small #6 or #8 flat-head screw, which is a bit on the small side for a massive stack of books. <S> The second is that they system in your photo appears to only be supported every 32 inches. <S> That may not allow enough anchors to be used. <S> If you 1) use all available screw holes, 2) install standards on every stud (which means using a shelf system that has brackets every 16 inches), and 3) use the largest sheet metal screw that fits behind the shelving you're using (#8 or #10), I think you'll be successful. <A> Firstly you need to find out of the steel studs are strong enough to support the books. <S> If there are, you will only be able to put the uprights where a stud are, that may not be where the shelving systems needs them to go. <S> Personally I would be looking for a set of free standing shelves, so the wall does not have to take the weight. <A> I did a similar setup for my bedroom recently. <S> #12 sheetmetal screws along the top of the rails, and #7 fine-threaded drywall screws through the rest of the upright standards. <S> My shelving is more decorative than practical, however. <S> I definitely would not rely on my walls to hold up a heavy metal drawer system full of papers. <S> I have some toys, plants, paintings, etc. <S> on it. <S> One thing to consider is: what are your floors and ceilings made of? <S> While houses tend to use thick wooden studs, which makes it easy to mount things directly off a wall, newer high-rises with steel studs often get a great trade-off for strong walls with strong concrete floors and ceilings. <S> You won't be able to fasten anything against some styrofoam drop-ceiling, but concrete above and below a shelf on tension rods could hold all this easily. <S> It's a similar style, and extremely strong since obviously a concrete floor & ceiling aren't going to yield under a few books. <A> I agree with Walker & you. <S> Seriously, go only with a self-supported floor standing system & <S> you're absolutely right with the Toggle Bolts through the steel studs for just anchoring everything to the wall. <S> Any , fine or shallow threaded screw will strip right out of steel studs, coarse threads will only hold a little longer but once they flare the metal & break free they slip right out too. <S> Relying on screws in steel studs for a stronger earthquake zone is a bad gamble, it's just a matter of time once they've started to work free. <S> On a beautifully perfect day with no weather or seismic events people with compromised screws in steel studs will have even their Drywall dropping & falling off like it was nailed-in <S> when the trash truck goes rumbling by.
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Steel studs are incredibly horrible & the only thing that gives a false sense of security is Coarse Threaded screws.
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Will a high efficiency furnace vent etch the brick on my house? My neighbour just informed me that they had to change the vent on their high efficiency furnace. The furnace vents between our two houses and it used to have an elbow on it directing it along the walkway but she said the elbow was icing up and they had to change it. It is now directed straight at the brick on our house. She wants to lean a sheet of plastic, the type that's used as roofing material on decks, against our house to protect it. My question is, will the emissions cause damage to our brick over time? We are about four feet away. I don't want to have a sheet of plastic leaning there. <Q> The combustion byproducts of natural gas also include nitrogen and sulfur oxides. <S> Those oxides combine with other combustion byproducts to create acidic compounds. <A> I have a HE tankless boiler that exhausts via a PVC vent onto my driveway. <S> I often park next to it and haven't noticed any damage on my car, though the car does move around a bit. <S> However, where the exhaust has condensed and dripped onto a small concrete sidewalk below it, there is a spot with some clear corrosion. <S> This is directly under the exhaust pipe, where water that condenses drips down. <S> Based on that I'd say you're at some risk of damage from corrosion, especially when your outer wall is cold and acidic water in the exhaust condenses onto it. <S> That's during most cold weather, which is also when the furnace will run most often. <S> At four feet, there might be enough distance for this to damage to be negligible; it depends on a lot of other factors like wind conditions. <S> But there is a risk and you should at least keep an eye on it. <S> Over time, it could eat through your bricks and mortar. <S> But you could give it a couple of months and see. <S> If you're looking for a less ugly protector, a sheet of clear acrylic fastened to your wall should also work. <A> If you don't want to have a sheet of plastic leaning against your house, then tell her so. <S> Also I don't know what building codes are applicable in Toronto but in the USA most states use some version of the IRC, which requires vents with exhaust fans to be 10 feet from property lines or other buildings.
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If those corrosive vapors condense on your brick wall, it will do damage. That is why high efficiency gas furnaces can not use unlined brick chimneys.
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Dangers from intermittent phase issues while experiencing a electrical phase issue (loose/failing service connection causing brief outages on one phase), what dangers is there to things plugged in? Any actions to take to either eliminate or reduce them? I have already taken the time to unplug the major electronic items, and I'm sure other things will take the brief outages well enough, but what about 240v appliances and things like the fridge and freezer? [Ohio, United States] <Q> You may not have trouble with your appliances, but the intermittent connection could be generating an enormous amount of heat and spark an electrical fire. <S> If the intermittent connection is on the utility pole then you probably don't need to feel responsible; if it's in your breaker box or in your wall then you should be extremely concerned. <S> half on where that connection can be dissipating an enormous amount of energy. <S> Worst case, the connection could be dissipating on the order of one quarter of the full usual load, so with a 3400W electric dryer you could have almost a kilowatt of power heating up that connection. <S> Could get entertaining fast. <A> If you are only losing one leg of the service then nothing more than irritation will occur. <S> Your AC unit actually uses a single relay to turn it on and off essentially making and breaking one leg of the 240 volts when it cycles. <S> All other 240 volt equipment will just shut off along with all of the 120 volt equipment on that leg. <S> Irritating but not harmful. <S> Notice <S> I call them legs instead of phases to reduce confusion. <S> Residential services are single phase with two legs that are each 120 volts to ground and 240 volts between them. <S> So, there is really only one phase to lose. <S> Call your utility and register a complaint if it continues. <S> Good luck! <A> I had it a few times for 2-weeks while the utility called everyone in the neighborhood crazy. <S> I had no after-effect issues with big or small stuff & did as you did after the fact. <S> But, I also had a lot of outages back then <S> so I was surge protected on the lightweight electronics already. <S> Everything on the 1-phase worked fine & I ran extension cords to hook things up to different circuits as needed.
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As a rule of thumb, a loose connection where your lights are either completely on or completely off isn't a concern; it's the times when your lights are
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Connecting the four terminals of a 14-50P to a homebrew 240v system with three wires I bought a new 240v homebrew system. The system requires a 30 amp circuit and comes with 10 gauge wires (black, white, green) but no plug (so you can connect the plug needed for your situation). I also recently bought an electric vehicle so I had a 14-50R installed in my garage with a 50 amp GFCI breaker. I want to connect my system to the 14-50R, so I bought a 14-50P to connect to the bare wires from the system. The issue I have is that the 14-50P has 4 terminals (2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground), but there are only three 10 gauge wires coming out of my 240v system (1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground). The terminals in my 14-50P are removable, so should I connect the 1 hot, ground and neutral and remove the unused hot terminal? Or should I do something totally different? And am I okay using the 10 gauge wire since the system will only draw less than 30 amps? <Q> If it's 240 volt it doesn't have a neutral. <S> So your home brew has 2 hots and a ground. <S> Just wire it with the reverse pattern of the receptacle except for the neutral (white) wire will be deleted from the plug. <S> 10 gauge is good for 30 amps but understand the receptacle is protected with a 50 amp breaker <S> so if your homebrew has a recommended max size breaker less than that you will be exceeding the recommended protection for your brewer. <S> Good luck! <A> It is not ok to directly attach a device that requires a 30 amp breaker to a 50 amp outlet. <S> Just imagine a short circuit in the your homebrew that would normally trip a 30 amp breaker, but in this case you you would need to flow over 50 amps through that 10 gauge wiring before the circuit breaks, likely causing a fire. <S> EDIT: <S> Now if everything that's wired is within fire resistant enclosures, it would probably be fine without requiring 50 amp wiring or a fuse. <A> The issue I have is that the 14-50P has 4 terminals (2 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground), <S> Right <S> but there are only three 10 gauge wires coming out of my brew system (1 hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground). <S> I think you are mostly likely mistaken on what the wires are. <S> The terminals in my 14-50P are removable, so should I connect the 1 hot, ground and neutral and remove the unused hot terminal? <S> You say the brew system is 240V <S> but in the north america (I assume you are in north america due to the mention of a NEMA plug type) you only have 120V between one hot and neutral. <S> You probablly need to connect black and white to the two hot pins (marking the white wire with red tape/sleeving to indicate that it is in fact a hot), green to the ground pin and leave the neutral pin disconnected but check the documentation for the device or ask the manufacturer to be sure. <S> You should also check what if anything the manual says about overcurrent protection.
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You need a 30 amp fuse hooked up with 50 amp wiring between your brewer and the outlet. If you want 240V you need to connect to both hots (and not the neutral).
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How to best fill in rat holes outside? We have a rental in a neighborhood with a serious rat problem. Per the county, we can only hope to battle and contain the issue. To that end, we've been paying for rat poison services for a while, but the county requires us to fill the holes, so that we can determine if the rats have been pushed back or are still active in the yard. What is the best way to fill rat holes? I have been going back and forth between pouring dry concrete mix down the hole followed by some top soil and allowing natural water fall to fill it, or by pouring down dry cement followed by water, or by mixing cement first and pouring it down. Clarification: I haven't done any of the above yet - when I say I've been going back and forth, I mean in my head, thinking about it. My concern with the last bit is - if I pour wet cement down the hole, won't it keep on flowing down the hole, requiring much more cement than if I use dry mix which can pile up and block the hole, which then when it gets wet will cure in place? <Q> Personally I would just fill the holes with dirt, why does it need to be more complicated than that? <S> Concrete isn't going to stop them any more than dirt, since presumably the yard is mostly dirt anyway. <A> So the county is requiring you to fill the tunnel opening so that it can be determined if that opening is active or not. <S> If that is how you will monitor the opening, through the rat moving the plugged hole, wouldn't it be better to fill the opening with a material the rodent can move? <S> If this is the case I would plug the opening with sand. <S> Specifically fill or washed sand used to mix with cement. <S> It is much courser than play or beach sand and when moistened will compact tightly to a dense, but easily scratched (excavated) barrier. <S> Dry or wet concrete poured down the opening will only prevent the rodent from digging an opening through the ground. <S> It may tunnel around the impervious concrete, but it may be at a new and remote location leading to the false conclusion that a different rat has appeared in a new tunnel. <S> Make it easy for the vermin to dig through the same tunnel. <S> Then with a rod tamp it further down the hole and pour in more dry mix. <S> Repeat again. <S> If you feel the mix needs to be impervious to not allow the vermin to escape add water in short increments allowing each to be absorbed into the dry mix. <S> BTW: rodenticide is a dangerous and powerful poison. <S> Food scents are added to them that are not only attractive to the target pest, but to domestic pets. <S> Also if a targeted pest has ingested the poison and is consumed by a non-targeted animal the poison can affect that animal in the same way. <S> Good luck and Happy hunting. <A> I am active in my block association in NYC - where we have plenty of rats to battle on an ongoing basis. <S> Then the holes are filled in with dirt. <S> This way everyone knows if the poison is taking effect or whether the burrow is still active. <S> I simply can't believe your public officials would want you to fill in rat holes in an outdoor space with concrete. <S> It pointlessly eliminates drainage. <S> If you have rats in buildings and you can identify entry points, then yes these entries should be sealed with metal or concrete. <S> Hope <S> this helps <A> Just use concrete with lot of jelly stones and most important , use glass pieces when u fill . <S> I don't understand why people make things so complicated . <S> When you have the oldest and most effective ways <A> From the centre for disease control:"Fill small holes with steel wool. <S> Put caulk around the steel wool to keep it in place. <S> Use lath screen or lath metal, cement, hardware cloth, or metal sheeting to fix large holes. <S> These materials can be found at your local hardware store. <S> Fix gaps in trailer skirtings and use flashing around the base of the house. <S> If you do not remember to seal up entry holes in your home, rodents will continue to get inside. <S> Outbuildings and garages should also be sealed to prevent the entrance of rodents."
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But, after reading additional comments a more direct answer to your question would be to pour as much pre-mixed DRY concrete into the opening until it fills to the top. Here, both the private exterminators and the city exterminators bait the holes in the ground (we're not talking about inside buildings here - but outside - in tree beds and gardens and parks) to try to reduce and ultimately eliminate the rats in a burrow.
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Would it hurt my water pump if installed a second water pump on the output of the first? I have a well in my garden(17m deep, 1m diameter), in it there is a platform on which my water pump for my house sits. Before the water comes out my faucet or shower it travels across some 20 to 30 meters of small diameter pipe. So the water pressure at the end is miserable. Can I connect another water pump right before(4m of pipe away) my shower, so that this pump would suck water from the first pump, create pressure and deliver comfortable pressure of water to my shower? Of course, I need some place for the second pump, it would create some noise, but would that be ok or would the first water pump get damaged? <Q> If the problem is undersized pipe, you need larger pipe, or some other coping mechanism such as a large pressure tank at the house. <S> Water can only be sucked so hard before it boils, at any temperature. <S> If you want a pump on the house side, you can do that, but you'd need to provide a large cistern to serve as the water source for that pump, so it's drawing from the stored water in the cistern, not the too-small pipe. <S> A larger pipe is a much simpler solution to this problem in most cases. <A> In theory, there should be no problem installing multiple pumps in series . <S> However, to do so, the pumps must both have the same flow rate. <S> If the pumps are matched, then the head pressure should be additive. <S> In practice, it might be more complex than it sounds. <S> The common solution to this problem, is to install a pressure tank. <S> While this might seem like an expensive solution, it may actually not be so bad. <S> If you were considering installing multiple small pumps throughout the home, you might find that a single pressure tank isn't far off price wise. <S> If you are considering installing a pump matched to the well pump, you still might find that the pressure tank option is cheaper. <S> This is especially true, if you consider the electrical requirements of the second pump. <S> Something like the below will theoretically work, but will require three pumps and some new plumbing. <A> Installing another pump after the primary pump may damage the primary pump, but even if it doesn't it won't solve your problem. <S> The bigger issue is that if the line between the two pumps has any leaks, even microscopic, then you'll be creating a very low pressure in that pipe, which may lead to contamination. <S> You would have to make sure the secondary pump is lower pressure, and this would defeat any possible benefit anyway. <S> Consider installing a low flow shower head. <S> These are designed for a lower volume of water, and if you can reduce the volume requirements, the apparent pressure will go up. <S> It will provide for a more powerful shower, without having to increase the actual volume or pressure of the existing system. <S> Beyond that, the only way to get more volume through an existing pipe is to increase the pressure. <S> I don't suggest that you pursue this, though, as you may create or enlarge leaks in the piping you don't want to replace. <S> As others have indicated, the next step is either replacing the pipe, or adding storage closer to the use. <S> Keep in mind that even an old high flow shower requires less than 10 gallons of water per ten minutes of showering, and during that time your source would be able to fill the storage, though not as fast as you're using it. <S> So even a tiny 5 gallon pressure tank might give you a full pressure 10 minute shower, using 10 gallons before it goes back to the original pump volume/pressure limitations. <S> Add in a low flow shower head, and you could use a 5 gallon tank for 40-60 minutes before experiencing reduced pressure. <S> Further, a pressure tank wouldn't require a secondary pump, and would be cheaper than a secondary pump. <S> Placing it in the attic isn't difficult - <S> these 5-10 gallon tanks are small, and even when full of water less than the weight of an adult. <S> Adding a box around one with adequate insulation, and removing the insulation below it <S> so it's more exposed to the heat from the living area <S> shouldn't incur excessive costs. <S> It may be tempting to get a larger tank, but for this one problem it's probably not necessary. <A> Yes, it would damage your well pump since it would drain the pump line & cause overheating of the well pump & you'd quickly run out of water until the well pump catches up for just another short burst of water & now air. <S> I don't know your well system's setup of course, but you would need a cistern or much larger cistern in order to successfully run a 2nd pump. <S> If this inadequacy has been only fairly recent & the pressure has been dropping or stepping down, then it's time for a new well pump as your pump is wearing out. <S> Replacing the pump either way would be your quickest, best & least expensive solution for many years of enjoyment. <A> Why must it be a pressure tank? <S> Why not install a larger break tank with the new pump on the output delivering all the pressure you need? <S> I install such systems all the time and all you have to do is ensure the tank is of sufficient capacity to deliver the qty of water per time period. <S> Bear in mind however that its makeup rate will be quite slow due to the poor from from the well. <S> You can install a float switch which disables the outflow from this tank if the level drops too low. <S> If you dedicate it to just your shower then you can have a pump that flattens you against the wall. <A> Installing a pressure tank is your only sensible answer. <S> This will give you better control of the entire house pressure and help extend the life of your pump. <S> You are using a Jet pump which is not the best type anyway <S> and as you have said is prone to failing. <S> These pumps will run comfortably for long periods, but constant starting as yours is doing will kill them. <S> With a pressure tank the pump may run for 10-12 minutes to fill it but then won't be used again till the tank is nearly empty. <S> Cost of a 30 -40 gallon tank and pressure switch is very close to cost of an average jet pump
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Placing a pump on the end of the small pipe will likely cause the second pump to cavitate, which generally damages the pump.
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How to tie a rope to both sides without loosing its grip strength? I already tried other kinds of ties but nothing seems to accomplish what I want to do. I tried taut-line hitch, didn't work... the only way to tighten it is to pull the tied part and if apply force at the middle of the rope then It will just simply loosen.. <Q> There are several variants of hitches that allow tightening after they are tied. <S> The most common is the taut-line hitch . <S> Wikipedia <S> [citing more authoritative sources] <A> If the taut line is slipping, make sure you tied the half hitch at the end in the proper direction. <S> Also make sure you tightened the knot down enough. <S> If it's still slipping, throw in a third turn on the inside and/or a half hitch on the outside. <S> Alternatively, you could use a Siberian Hitch on one end, and the knot shown in this YouTube video at 0:19 in (which I haven't been able to positively <S> id yet). <S> These have the advantage of being quick release. <A> Have you tried getting a Manila rope soaking wet tying it as tight as you can and then wait for it to shrink as it dries?
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The Taut Line Hitch and the Trucker's Hitch are the most commonly used knot for this purpose.
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rotten egg smell in cold water only bathroom sink of new home I live in a brand new home. Since we moved in (Nov 2015) there is a rotten egg smell in just one of the bathroom sinks and just from the cold water. It used to be now and then. Now it is 90% of the time I get that smell in the cold water. What can I do?The builder sent a plumber out who basically cleaned out the top of the drain and said it should go away. I was doubtful and it has never gone away and is now more the norm for the cold water in that faucet. Help! <Q> We had this same problem. <S> The smell was only coming from our kitchen sink, and only for a few seconds after the water was turned on. <S> No other faucet in the house had smelly water, so <S> I was quite certain it wasn’t from water heater issues. <S> We tried draining some water from the water heater just in case, but no sediment came out and no smell. <S> Since the smell only lasted a few seconds at the faucet, I figured the smell had to be building up somewhere between the water heater and the offending sink. <S> What I eventually noticed was that the braided pipes leading to the hot and cold had subtle horizontal “S” curves in them where smelly gas could get trapped, like how a toilet is shaped so sewer gas doesn’t come back up. <S> I figured that when the water hadn’t been run in awhile, the gas would build up in the upper curve. <S> Then the water would push the gas out when it was turned on. <S> So I replaced the braided pipes with shorter ones that didn’t crate that “S” curve. <S> We have been smell free ever since. <A> Are you on a well? <S> Sulfur (rotten egg) <S> smell can be caused by a few things, like the content of the water, something decaying (like in a drain) or by bacteria that can live in water supply systems. <S> The bacteria are harmless but can generate a rotten egg smell, and the sulfur they release can build up in little-used plumbing. <S> Water wells are more likely to have this problem. <S> Since you are describing a single fixture, it could be a problem with the plumbing to that fixture only. <S> I don't think there is an easy way to sterilize a city-service attached plumbing system, and there may be risk of backflow that would make it illegal or inadvisable. <S> You could also just try running the sink for a long period of time to completely flush the line. <A> Try Replacing the Filter for the Water Softening System <S> I had the same issue and after reading through the answers I decided that replacing the overly looped water feed to the cold water was the way to go. <S> It is hard to reach because of my setup <S> so I jiggled it and then went looking for wrench. <S> Before I got to that point I replaced the string filter in my water softening system (well water) and after replacing it the first faucet I turn on had a stronger flow. <S> So I went back upstairs and turned on the cold water and low and behold all kinds of nasty junk came through and down the drain. <S> Bad smell is now gone!! <S> Side Note <S> : I will probably replace the feed eventually since the smell may return if more junk gets stuck there but for now problem solved!! <A> If the Plumber decided to do just the drain, then I'd be inclined to follow his lead. <S> It could be a mold or bacteria in the drain, but more specifically in the overflow's throat. <S> Hot water would usually steam the smell away & cold water would fan it around. <S> Try dribbling in bleach while scrubbing inside the overflow & down the drain, stopper removed, as completely as you can with a long & small bottle type brush with glasses or safety glasses on. <S> Check the brush periodically. <S> If the brush comes out black or really with anything then you're in the right area & keep scrubbing until the brush comes out clean for both holes. <S> The bleach should take care of anything further down the drain under the sink too. <S> But, you can also monkey around down there if you want a thorough mess. <A> - Incidentally if it was a well problem it would affect ALL cold water faucets,not just one <A> This smell is common to lavatory sinks. <S> You must block the drain from inside the sink but below the holes in the drain that allow the overflow to function. <S> I do it with a coat hanger with enough clothe attached to it <S> so I can remove the pop up waste lever (with the ball on it) that allows the drain stopper to either close or open. <S> Remove the stopper and stuff the clothe on the end of the wire close hanger to prevent the water from draining. <S> Fill the sink to the overflow and as it fills over the overflow opening, pour a cup of bleach into the overflow with the water that is rising. <S> Shut off the water and let it set for a few hours. <S> Repeat the pouring of the bleach if the water leaks out through the drain below. <S> You must repeat this maybe every 90 days so put it on your calendar. <S> All the best. <A> Cold water only sulfide odor may be coming from the supply hoses under the sink. <S> Apparently these Chinese plastic hoses react with something in the water (bacteria? ). <S> I replace the hoses every six months. <S> Working with city water to try to figure out the source. <S> This is a 2 year old home.
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If you are on a well and get the odor anytime the plumbing sits for a few days, you can have the well sterilized and flushed (usually by turning it off, adding several gallons of bleach to the well head and letting it sit for a few hours, then flushing ALL of the plumbing for several hours. If I was in a home less than 6 months old I would insist on the builder rectifying this problem ASAP.
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Do I need to unplug my hot water recirculating pump when I turn off the water to the house? When I turn off the water to the house (for vacation) and open a faucet to relieve the pressure, I notice that the hot water recirculating pump makes a lot of noise that it doesn't when the water is on. Do I need to unplug the recirculating pump to prevent damage while the house water is off? If I do unplug the pump, can it be damaged if not woking for too long? Thanks for any input. <Q> Running the pump dry for an extended period can damage it. <S> You should unplug it rather than let it run dry. <S> If it sits idle for longer than a couple weeks for vacation, minerals in the water could cause it to stick when put back in service. <S> It usually just means you have to disassemble the pump and free the impeller before it will work again. <S> Good luck! <A> Do I need to unplug the recirculating pump to prevent damage while the house water is off? <S> Yes. <S> If I do unplug the pump, can it be damaged if not working for too long? <S> No. <A> Yes & maybe. <S> And maybe, there's a literally miniscule chance of some sitting minerals in the water <S> to ever so slightly surface corrode something. <S> But, with closest &/or a 2nd tap open so the pump can dry out as quickly as possible it shouldn't be anything noticeable when the water goes back on. <S> Any evidence would likely show up in your faucet aerator(s).
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Yes, unplug it or unless you actually need power for something (minimal heating, alarm system, phantom lighting, etc), turn off the whole place with the Main Circuit Breaker.
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Is it crazy to put a hole on a fridge? I want to buy a mini fridge, not for food storage, but for storing stuff I don't want to evaporate (gets hot in my room during summers) or preserve. I'm thinking maybe once in a while I want to make it extensible by putting a hole through it and then attach an insulated PVC pipe going to a cooler in the end. I'm also playing around with the idea of being able to attach my PC water cooling system to the end of the pipe (though I haven't even set up my PC cooling system). As in the summer, my room gets almost as hot as the inside of my PC. Though I don't know if the fridge can handle that much heat being fed into it. <Q> The fridge will add more heat to your room. <A> Careful, mini fridges often have their evaporator coils (full of refrigerant) embedded in the fridge walls. <S> What's usually safe to modify, though, is the door. <S> This isn't always true for chest freezers, but most fridges (large and small) only have foam insulation within the door. <A> TL;DR <S> No, this is a terrible idea. <S> Cutting a hole into a fridge, and hooking up a line to it that goes to your PC will not achieve the results you are looking for. <S> The line will cause condensation to build up inside of your computer, and ruin it over time. <S> It is also not very efficient for cooling. <S> A refrigerator will actually slightly raise the ambient temperature of the room. <S> On hotter days, it will put out even more heat because the compressor has to work harder. <S> What you really should do is lower the ambient temperature of the room. <S> You want to aim for a temperature that is below 80 degrees Fahrenheit. <S> There will be a significant increased risk of component failure if it gets much higher. <S> An air conditioner is the cheapest alternative to lowering the temperature of the room. <S> If you do not have one, and cannot put one in that space, then it would be a good idea to locate your computer in a different room that is cooler on average. <S> Water cooling is almost never necessary. <S> They are most often used in overclocked computers. <S> Usually, the stock fans that comes with a system are good enough. <S> Usually, when people are complaining about overheating issues, they are either overclocking, or their PC is full of dust. <S> If you are overclocking, put all of the settings back to default to see if that helps the stability issues. <S> You should also spray out our machine thoroughly with compressed air, especially around the fans. <S> Some PCs do not have very good airflow. <S> You can try adding or replacing fans to see if that makes a difference. <S> Fans wear out over time, and can become less efficient.
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You're much better off getting an air-conditioner, and keeping the fridge outside of the room. Once you've got your fridge turned on for the first time, if the walls feel warm, don't drill into them!
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Water gets cold after ten minutes of use! Water runs cold after about 10 minutes of showering! Also there was black stuff coming out of bath pipe before. Just got a new water heater and it didn't fix the hot water problem :(. What could it be? <Q> The black stuff should've been from the new Water Heater installation & should've cleared right up. <S> The Plumber likely had to shut-off <S> the building's water & the valve had some deposits scraped off from operation of the valve. <S> But, the hot water running out so quickly is pointing to a hot water line leak. <S> Since it wasn't noticed by anyone you could have pipes under the concrete slab of the ground floor or basement. <S> 3-ways <S> to discover & confirm a leak. <S> 1 - Listen for hissing or slight high pitched rattling sounds or any unknown sound actually in the shower before turning anything on in the shower. <S> 2 - Walk around in bare feet on the concrete slab to find a warm or hot spot. <S> 3 - Turn off the Hot Water Valve at the Water Heater until your next shower & then turn the hot water back on just before your shower. <S> Just turn it on a little & not wide open just 1/4 of the way. <S> If 1 & 2 don't find anything initially, but 3 does improve the showering then you do have a leak & go turn off the Hot Water after you're done using it again & until your next need. <S> Turning off the Hot Water Valve stops the hot water from leaving the tank & you get a full tank heating. <S> Turning it back on just a little usually doesn't effect showering but limits how much hot water is lost through the leak. <S> You can use the Water Heater this way indefinitely until the leak is found & repaired. <A> Perhaps you are simply using all the hot water in the tank. <S> After all, 3 gallons per minute is a fairly low flow, but will empty a 30 gallon tank in 10 minutes. <S> To test this, measure how much water comes out of your shower. <S> A bucket and a stopwatch should suffice. <S> Put 1 gallon of water in the bucket (4 quarts or two 2-liter soda bottles worth) and mark the water level in the bucket. <S> Then set the shower the normal way you use it (temp and flow) and time how long it takes to fill the bucket to that level from the showerhead. <S> You can also switch the diverter so it goes down to the tub spigot if that's easier, but the flow may be higher this way, so it may be a false reading. <S> You can also try turning off the "cold" and measuring only the "hot", but this may make the bucket adventuresome to hold. <S> Now that you have a seconds-per-gallon number, go down and look at the water heater capacity (on its nameplate or EPA tag) <S> and you can figure how many seconds of hot shower you get. <S> Why did you replace the hot water heater? <S> Did it reduce in capacity? <S> By chance, did this coincide with turning the temperature down (for safety)? <S> Doing that means using a lot more hot water to get the same comfort temperature, so you will empty the tank much faster. <S> I once had to choose between scalding temps or short showers. <S> With a tanked heater, when the tank is empty, you're done. <S> It is impossible for a tanked heater to heat water continuously; if it could, it would be an on-demand heater and it wouldn't need a tank! <S> If you are a long-shower junkie like me, you want an on-demand heater. <S> You can shower all day, but the gas ones are pricey, and the electric ones are reasonably priced but require very impressive electrical service. <A> In my case it was an old two knob faucet used to control a shower where a shutoff valve had been installed after the hot & cold mix point (the shutoff was right at the shower head). <S> The shower head shutoff was closed and both hot and cold faucet valves were left open. <S> Drawing hot water at some other location in the house would cause cold water to be sucked across the open valves and into the hot water pipes. <S> The result was tepid water in the hot pipe. <S> The time I saw this happen, it took about 10 minutes for the effect to be noticeable.
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I have seen similar behaviour in a system that had a "short circuit" in the plumbing where cold water was allowed to enter the hot water pipes.
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UK Vented Heating Problem - F25 Error on Glow Worm Boiler We have had an intermittent problem over the last 4 months with our boiler cutting out with F22 and F25 errors (circulation fault/air in system etc...). Its a Glow worm Flexicom 18hx and has been installed for about 2 years. It would cut out every 10 minutes or so, and the way we would get it working again would be to turn off every radiator but one, and then reset the boiler multiple times (sometimes all day) until it stayed on with the one rad on. Then we would turn another radiator on, let it get hot, then another until they were all on. It would then work flawlessly from then on for a few weeks. Then it would start over again with the errors, and we would go through the process again. Some plumbers we have had in for other things (while there were no problems) have said it sounds like the pump was on it's way out, and it did sound funky. This weekend it started again and no matter what we did the boiler would not stay on past 5 or 10 minutes. So I went and bought a new Grundfos pump, a drop in replacement for my old one and replaced it myself. However even with this new pump, the boiler is still crapping out. It's a vented system with a hot water tank in the airing cupboard. The system has been drained down, all radiators bled, all bleed points by the tank and pump have been bled. The temp on the boiler is set to 39C. I have also manually opened both Honeywell valves by the pump. Nothing is working and it is killing. What else can I possibly try? <Q> Looks like quite a few people still come across this question <S> so I thought I would post what the problem was in the hope it may help others. <S> After trying everything it could possibly be, including replacing the thermistor in the boiler, in the end it was a good old British Gas engineer that fixed the issue with a couple of air release valves (automatic bleed valves) on the two bleed points in our airing cupboard. <S> The air was getting trapped in and around the pump and valves no matter how much manual bleeding we did. <S> The end result is a working central heating system, and the odd short sharp hiss coming from the cupboard once and a while. <A> The Installation Manual says Which give a list of things to try. <S> The manual contains diagrams that should help you identify the thermistor and other parts. <S> I don't know how you'd check for "System is too restrictive". <S> If you are using 15mm to radiators (rather than say narrowbore) <S> a partial blockage <S> somewhere is less likely I guess. <S> You might first try rebalancing the radiators . <S> You could check that the layout of the plumbing conforms with the boiler manufacturers requirements: <S> I admit I'd be looking for a suitably qualified engineer with good experience in this specific boiler model. <S> The maker have a phone number for technical advice <S> but I imagine they might expect to talk to a qualified engineer rather than a householder. <A> I had the same problem with my glow worm flexicon 12hx. <S> It was throwing fault codes f11, f22, and f25. <S> The house is approx 7 years old. <S> I had a plumber friend have a look <S> and he said it could of been one of a few things. <S> I didn't want to spend money on numerous attempts to fix <S> so I contacted glow worm and they put me onto a service deal for £299.88. <S> This covered all boiler and system parts including the pump and valves but did not cover blockages. <S> However if they didn't fix the fault I could claim the money back. <S> Their engineer arrived and stated it would not be a boiler fault with these codes, as they indicate circulation issues. <S> He then: <S> Bled the radiators <S> Checked <S> the header tank was full <S> Emptied a radiator to check refill <S> He then thought it was a flow valve at top of the airing cupboard. <S> He said most systems don't have this, they have a simple H pipework instead. <S> Just to make sure, he changed the pump. <S> He said old pump was working but maybe was not as efficient as it should be <S> but this was not the fault. <S> He thought it was a blockage in the valve and said this was not covered and I should get my plumber friend to remove the valve and put H pipework in and this would solve issue. <S> I was not convinced. <S> He said the boiler is working because it was showing 72° so it was hot. <S> But when he felt boiler he realised it wasn't hot. <S> He went to his van and came back, then changed a thermistor in the boiler, which took 2 minutes. <S> This fixed the fault immediately and it has been fixed since. <S> This was one of the things my mate said it was likely to be. <S> We thought we would have to remove a lot of parts to get to it. <S> The engineer did it by clipping the original one, sliding it across and leaving it there, then putting the new one in. <S> This part is approx £10. <S> This is worth a try for you all. <S> For us we just needed it fixed immediately as it was unlivable with a baby in the house.
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Flushing the circuit might be worth trying.
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Outside electrical outlet doesn't work after pressure washing My outside outlet has a flap but son pressure washed house using it. Now will not work I think he had it gotten wet. If I replace outlet would that work? <Q> That may not be necessary. <S> You may have tripped a circuit breaker or a GFCI device. <S> First see if the breaker to that outlet has been tripped. <S> If the breaker is not already off, turn off the power to that outlet. <S> Confirm there is no power on the case by touching a no-contact tester against it. <S> Carefully remove the cover over the outlet. <S> Again check there is no power to the wires on the outlet. <S> See if there is any water in the housing. <S> If so let it drain, mop up with paper towels, and let air dry. <S> See if there is any sign of scorching or melted wire or insulation. <S> If there is, you need to replace the outlet and maybe even some wiring. <S> Once you are sure it is dry, before you replace the cover, you can try to reset the outlet. <S> All modern outdoor outlets should be GFCI, with a device in the outlet itself, somewhere back downstream on the circuit, or at the main panel. <S> Turn the circuit breaker back on, and then find the GFCI device and reset it. <S> This may solve your problem. <S> If not, you may need a new outlet or GFCI device. <S> If there is no GFCI device in the circuit, by all means replace the outdoor outlet with a new one. <S> If the seals around the outdoor outlet cover are not in good shape, you may want to replace that as well. <A> I would turn the power off pull the outlet out if it is wet dry off water may have entered the box and is causing the outlet to fail. <S> Make sure to check outdoor GFCI’s test button prior to use for a double check that it is working correctly. <A> Did this near the pool pump myself a while back. <S> Gas or battery powered leaf blower first then see if tripped breaker will reset.
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If it is dry you will need to replace the outlet as water is probably inside the outlet and may have damaged the electronics.
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What is this bug and should I be concerned? I see these guys crawling around. What are they and are they here to destroy my house and cost me money and waste my time? <Q> It's a woodlouse . <S> Mostly an outdoor bug, generally beneficial, but may bother some plants. <S> They are generally not a big deal in houses, although not pretty. <S> Wikipedia <S> comments <S> Woodlice can also invade homes en masse in search of moisture and their presence can indicate dampness problems. <S> (When I was a kid, we called them potato bugs .) <A> It's a Pill Bug, though around me they're called Potato Bugs...don't eat or swallow them, unless you need protein. <S> They roll up in a ball when you pound on them with your enormously giant finger as you thunderously chuckle at their pain & panic (not everyone likes you). <S> Actually, they're very helpful in most circumstances. <S> They like soft, moist, "your house is going to fall down" rotting wood. <S> I'm kidding about any imminent collapse, as far as I know. <S> But, they're an indication that something somewhere that shouldn't be getting wet, is starting to decay or has been decaying for a long time. <S> Maybe this isn't a new house and you're not the original owner. <S> Someone may have hired a guy or gal to just spray poison and did nothing else. <S> These bugs also indicate that you have a tiny if not a mammoth gaping highway hole somewhere, since they've decided to have a party at your place with all of their friends. <S> Check everything you can on the outside. <S> Like gutters, downspouts, caulk, very short overlaps of plastic siding, light fixtures, doors & windows, hose bibs & the neighboring dog's habits. <A> They seek mould and rotting, damp wood . <S> Not generally harmful and most bug sprays will get rid of them. <S> I even have a cat who likes to eat them (and YES, he is still healthy ! )
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They are not generally regarded as a serious household pest as they do not spread disease and do not damage sound wood or structures. That insect is a woodlouse also known as "boat builder", "cheesy bob", "pill bug" and many other local names.
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When sanding spindles how far should I go? I have a number of spindles on my stairs which need to be repainted. The current paint is thick and badly done. How far should I be going when sanding? So far I have all the thick paint sanded off, but I'm not sure if I should be going down to wood. <Q> I would make sure it is not lead based paint before I start sanding. <S> A product you may want to use is called peal and stick. <S> You apply a layer of the product then add a special paper that comes with it and <S> another layer of product let it sit <S> ans peal it away using plastic scrapers. <S> It will take it to the bare wood and you can seal with a primer and paint. <A> If the thick paint is attached well sand <S> all the irregular bumps and brush marks out or they will show when you repaint. <S> I use Floetrol when I want a brush stroke free finish. <S> The Floetrol makes a very nice finish when you have to use a brush,and want a satin finish. <A> I'd say your best is to go down to wood & start over & therefore even stain them instead afterward. <S> But, not by sanding if the place was built prior to 1980, there would be possible lead paint issues & the thick gloppy stuff that you think is a bad paint job may be Lead Encapsulating Paint. <S> Spend a lot of money on a bucket or 2 of multi-layer paint stripper, like Peel <S> Away or Smart Strip. <S> Those actually work as advertised & are non-toxic, stay away from anything in a metal can. <S> I haven't found any metal can stuff that does more than 1 very thin layer at a time, not that I've tried them all. <A> It is fine to get down to the point where you begin to see bare wood, but you aren't actually sanding into the surface of it. <S> The objective is to get to a clean surface that can be painted over. <S> If there are spots where there are thicker areas of paint, you would want to feather the hard edges in so they won't show in the final product. <S> After the sanding process is done, you will want to carefully vacuum all of the dust, preferably with a vacuum cleaner that has a HEPA filter in it. <S> You also will want to use a rag and wipe off all of the residual dust. <S> To prepare the surface for painting, you can wipe down all the surfaces to be painted with a rag soaked in naphtha. <S> It is a solvent that will loosen up and dissolve the residual paint. <S> Naphtha will give off fumes, so you will need to do this in a well ventilated area. <S> You will also need to use gloves which are not petroleum based such as nitrile gloves. <S> Normal latex gloves will dissolve in naphtha. <S> A mask with a respirator is optional, but you want to avoid breathing in the fumes. <S> One extra step you could take prior to painting <S> is to use a sealer on the wood. <S> This will help the paint adhere to the surface of the wood. <S> One good sealer is dewaxed clear shellac. <S> This product is available in a spray can, which makes it easy to apply. <S> When spraying it on, avoid putting it on too thick because it can run. <S> It dries very quickly, and multiple coats can be applied in a single day.
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Since you are repainting the spindles, you do not need to go completely down to bare wood.
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How can I work on eaves of my house, 30-feet high? I have repair work and painting I want to do on the eaves and gutters of my house. In some places they are up to 30 feet off the ground and I would not feel safe being on ladder that high. One option may be to rent a scissors lift which might cost about $150 per day. The main tricky thing there is that my house has a berm so I would have to find a way to provide a solid level surface for the lift, essentially building a small platform and ramp for the lift everywhere I would need to use it, which could get expensive and time consuming. Another option would be to rent a cherry picker, but they are more expensive around $250 a day, but that would make the level platform problem go away. On a side note how do you reposition such lifts? Are they self-propelled? I would need to move them to several different positions around the house. <Q> You can set up two or three sections and have 20 feet or more to work from at a stretch. <S> It should be relatively inexpensive and you'll be able to keep it for a few days for the same money as a motorized lift. <S> The drawback is that it's a bit slow and effort-intensive to move, but if you're able-bodied it's not difficult. <A> I used eye-bolts to anchor my ladder to my wall. <S> random intertube photo - I just used rope and carabiners etc <S> random intertube photo For soft or uneven ground <S> I once made a ladder-shoe from wood and hammered stakes (tent pegs) through it to stop it sliding. <A> I have been in this position before. <S> Tall ladders make me nervous, no matter how closely I follow the ladder safety setup guide. <S> I also have a tall house in the middle of nowhere (rural area) that needs maintenance. <S> Thus if I fall and get hurt it might be awhile before somebody could call 911 for me. <S> I am a cheapskate, and didn't want to pay money for rental equipment. <S> Plus some of the terrain wouldn't work well with scissor lifts. <S> My solution was using a universal safety harness and a rope tied to a sturdy tree on the other side of the house. <S> Tie one side of the rope with a weight and toss/sling it over the house. <S> (use some sense, practice first <S> so you don't knock out a window) <S> (also, in my case the house is very tall, and I first had toss a weight to a string to get it over the house, and then used the string to pull the rope over the house) <S> I looked up on youtube on how to make a solid knot. <S> I followed the suggested ladder setup and guidance, and technically the harness was not necessary. <S> But it gave me the sensation of additional safety, and as a result I was much less nervous being high up on the ladder. <A> I have rented this type 34’ towable personnel lift . <S> It is around 200 a day and it takes a few minutes to set up. <S> I am a big guy <S> 6’5” 265lbs <S> it handled me and my tools on soft dirt and slightly uneven ground. <S> The advantage of this over a scissor lift is you can easily move the basket quite a few feet side to side. <S> Many scissor lifts do have a platform that can be extended forward several feet so you may be able to park behind the berm <S> but they require ground that is much flatter and somewhat solid. <S> They do make them that are taller <S> but I have had much better luck with the basket type on small jobs. <S> Self Propelled boom lifts are quite a bit more and have a delivery charge as the weigh +10 tons. <A> Carefully & the rental options you mentioned I totally agree with...someone to sue. <S> But, the scissor lift would be the only good option if you're going to be scraping, driving screws with a lot of effort or ripping stuff down. <S> The cherry picker will just bob-around & piss you off in 2-minutes, unless you can drop a homemade support or 3. <S> But, I think your getting the heaviest duty extension ladder(s) would be the best long-term investment. <S> With top & bottom tip proofing & bottom leveling attachments & the ability to scaffold with ladder jacks on 2 ladders, they really can't be beat for a 1-time expense. <S> Otherwise, work from the windows if that'll let you get everything you're after, just stand in the opening if the windows are tip-in & remove. <S> Even a straight ladder out of those to get you up higher works beautifully with the bottom insanely secured & the sides braced inside & out. <S> I used to sit on old real wood windows, that didn't tip in & weren't readily removable, <S> to pole paint & I never cracked or broke a single window pane. <S> I've also gone hog-wild & outright nuts (according to the pro's, until they got on) with L-brackets, shelf-type braces & joist hanger types of products. <S> Building temporary & re-usable window balconies that use the inside wall... <S> nothing screwed-in to the building at all & no damage or just slight indentations <S> (avoidable in hindsight & addressed it for numerous future uses).
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I'd rent a batch of scaffolding (or "staging"), including some extensions to accommodate the berm. If I needed more security I would probably buy ladder-stabilisers or lash a plank to the bottom (less likely for ladder to rotate) and maybe buy a harness to clip myself to the ladder.
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Connecting 1/2 copper to 1/8 pex? Water line to fridge had a saddle valve, saddle valve started leaking so took it out and repaired pipe. Now trying to figure out how to reconnect fridge line. I have 1/2 inch copper under the sink and the pex line at the fridge says 1/8 on it. I can't find any adapters that go from 1/2 to 1/8,or even 1/4 to 1/8. Any help would be appreciated, thanks! <Q> Once you get down to 1/4" copper tube, you can reduce further to 1/8" tube as follows. <S> If you want to tee off after the sink shutoff valve, we'll need to know what size the outlet is on the valve. <A> Dont use plastic water lines going to fridge I see them leak all the time. <S> I have seen them up to 20' long. <S> The easiest ways is to install a compression nut T. <S> You unscrew your supply line from your sink to the shut off valve and screw in the compression nut T. <S> Your water line from sink and icemaker will both screw into this. <A> I ended up getting a 1/2 to 1/4 SharkBite adapter, then a 1/4 to 1/4 stainless steel line to connect to the adapter on the pex. <S> The pex does say 1/8 on it, but one of the posters correctly pointed out that's an inside diameter. <S> Thanks all!
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If you want to tee off the 1/2" copper line, then you can start with something like this. Use 1/4 flexible copper with compression fittings or 1/4 flexible braided stainless steel supply line(like going to your faucet) Just take a trip your local hardware store and ask for help this is a very common issue.
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How to make a 12" deep wall cabinet face be 15" from existing wall I'm remodeling my kitchen. First major remodel. I have purchased 12" deep unfinished stock cabinets. I would like to make the face of the 30x30x12 wall cabinet that will be above the stove/oven be 15" from the wall so I can add crown molding to all the wall cabinets later on. Is this possible by attaching a couple 2x4's flat against the wall to the existing studs and attaching the cabinet to those? <Q> You can, but... <S> It is unlikely but possible that the exact space you want to install the cabinet only has 1 stud available. <S> (if studs are 16 inch on center it is possible that a stud is centered in the vicinity of the cabinet). <S> If that is the case, then wall anchors will be required to help support things. <S> Do you have plans to mount a hood or micro hood in this area? <S> If so, this configuration could prove troublesome on installation. <S> Further, depending on the cabinet height, you may find the cabinet intrusive for full operation of the rear of the stove, especially with a tall chef and rear-mounted controls on the stove <S> /oven. <S> Either way, make plans to seal the gap created by pushing the cabinet out from the wall. <S> That will prevent having an unclean able greasy trap for dirt which will be prone to dropping into your food. <A> Attach the first 2 additional 2x4s to studs with 3" screws. <S> It may be better to run these horizontally <S> so you cover at least 3 studs. <S> When these are solid attach the next 2 also with 3" screws. <S> Now with someone's help add the cabinet and use 1 1/4 screws to attach it to the supports. <A> I agree with Nomind. <S> Two 2x4s attached one at a time will do the job. <S> If the cabinet is at the end of a run of cabinets you will need to finish the exposed edge. <S> Depending on the type of cabinet you will need some type of skin to run from the front rail to the back wall. <S> If you just splice in a filler it will not look good with and exposed seam. <S> Good luck. <A> 1) cut 4 30" 2x4's to length to fit behind the cabinet, two at the top of the cabinet, two at the bottom. <S> even better is to rip 3" x 3/4" strips of plywood to take the place of the 2 x 4's. <S> its much flatter and easier to use without it twisting over time. <S> 2) apply construction adhesive to two boards. <S> attach with screws to whatever studs you can hit, horizontally to wall at top and bottom of cabinet location. <S> 3) rip or plane the third and fourth 2x4 to 1.25" thickness. <S> 4) install third and fourth board on top of first and second (respectively) using screws only. <S> 5) install cabinet using vertical cedar shims between cabinet and outer boards. <S> this will let you "tune" the fit to accomodate for the natural twists and variations in the 2x4's. <S> cabientry is usually installed with 1/32" accuracy, so its important to use the shims to get the cabinet just right. <S> otherwise your cove/crown moulding will look terrible when you are done.
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Yes, your plan is good.
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How do I use a multimeter to check for power? I need to check that power going from my light switch, to a light fixture on the same wall, as well as a light fixture on the opposite wall. How do I use a multimeter to do that? <Q> WARNING <S> If you're not comfortable working on live wiring, please contact a local licensed electrician. <S> Working on live wiring can be dangerous, and could lead to property damage/loss, personal injury, and/or death. <S> To test voltage, you'll want to set the meter to the "Volts AC" setting. <S> On the meter it will likely look like a capital "V" followed by a "~". <S> Typically there will be more than one setting within the range, so you'll want to choose the setting that is higher than what you expect to get. <S> For example. <S> In the US a lighting circuit is typically 120 volts, so you would choose the "200" setting typically found on most meters. <S> Typically the black probe goes in "COM", while the red goes in "VΩmA", "VΩ", or "V". <S> Carefully touch one probe to a known good ground, and the other to the "hot" conductor. <S> ( When I say "ground", I don't mean dirt. <S> I'm talking about electrical ground ). <S> Next with the one probe still touching ground, touch the other probe to the "neutral" conductor. <S> ( When I say touch the conductor, I mean touch an exposed part of the conductor with the tip of the probe. <S> Touching the probe to the insulation on the wire, isn't going to do anything ). <S> Finally, touch one probe to the "hot" conductor, and the other to the "neutral". <S> When you measure between ground or "neutral" and "hot", you should measure line voltage (about 120 volts). <S> When you measure between ground and "neutral", you should measure 0 volts. <A> How do I use a multimeter to do that? <S> First Check your multimeter <S> Marked as Cat II rated, credibly so? <S> Probes and leads marked for an AC voltage greater than your supply? <S> Good-sized finger-stops on the probes Probe-tip shrouds to prevent shorts (or fingers reaching metal) <S> HRC fused? <S> Then See other answers <S> But Test your tester Measure <S> a genuine 120VAC (or 230VAC) source and check the metershows the correct reading for a live and dangerous condition. <S> Turn off the supply to the circuit you are working on and check for 0V. Before touching anything, go and check a live circuit elsewhereto <S> be sure your meter didn't coincidentally die between the previous steps. <S> The last step is a bit overkill, but better safe than sorry. <A> I generally don't recommend using multi-meters to the uninitiated, 120V is pretty painful <S> and you need a healthy concern for your own safety when working around exposed wiring. <S> Most people I find aren't scared enough until they get shocked and that could be too late. <S> they cost between $10 and $20 and should be in your pocket when doing electrical work. <S> The use is simple. <S> First make sure it works right. <S> Find a live working outlet, place the probe end near the smaller opening for the plug, <S> that's the hot side. <S> the probe should light up and make a noise. <S> You don't need to touch anything, just get with in an inch or so. <S> Get as close to the bulb base as you can, with in 1 inch usually is close enough. <A> If auto range select the correct function and make sure leads are in the correct locations on the meter. <S> (using a ohmmeter on a live circuit will let the magic smoke out).
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In all honesty, You really don't need a multi-meter, a non-contact voltage detector is easier to use, and hands down safer since you don't have to have exposed wiring. When using a meter on a live circuit you would use the volts AC and select a range that is higher than what you expect 120V standard outlet herein the U.S. 220v across the Pond. Check the documentation for the meter you're using, to determine where each probe should be plugged in. Now that you know it works, turn your switch on, use the probe to check for power at it, then go to each light and test for power. If you have the power off and want to verify continuity you would use the ohms setting at the lowest value.
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How can I install a Pull-Up Bar on a brick wall? I want to install a pull-up bar on a brick wall but I am not sure at all if it will hold or not. I will try to give you some specifications about the wall and the bar and hopefully you can help me. -The wall is 40cm (15.7 inches) thick, made by some kind of brick with holes, propably this one and the other side of the wall looks outside. (If you need more detailes on the brick i can look it up.) -The Bar is a regular wall-mounted pull-up bar like this and the weight of the individual tops at 80kg (170 pounds). Is it safe to install? What type of screws/bolts should I use? <Q> The issue is that a pull up bar has a live, moving load. <S> If it was just shelves holding a static load there would a vast multitude of ways to mount it. <S> Every time you do a pull up you'll end up stressing the anchors, the brick, and maybe even the mortar, since this is a person and not a vase that will get damaged when it fails, I'd look for a better solution. <A> I think what I'd do is try and spread the load across several columns and several rows. <S> I'd get myself some lumber, say 2x6 pine/fir, and stain and seal it. <S> I'd run two 48" lengths vertically behind the mounting plates of the bar, with the bulk of the 2x6 upward of the bar (or tight against the ceiling, as space allows). <S> This lessens pullout force on the system. <S> Fasten the lumber to the masonry using sleeve anchors or toggle bolts, 3-4 per side. <S> Try to hit the central area of the blocks to reduce the chance of blowout. <S> Use an appropriately sized masonry bit and hammerdrill with light force. <S> Anchor the bar to the lumber using 7/16" x 1-1/2" lag screws, or run 3/8" carriage bolts through the lumber from behind before you mount it to the masonry. <S> | | | || <S> • | <S> | <S> • || <S> | | || <S> | | || | | || | | || <S> • <S> | <S> | <S> • <S> || |•| <S> | | |•| || | | | | | | || |•| | | |•| || <S> | | || <S> • | <S> | <S> • || | | <S> | <S> With this approach most of the torque load is applied to the lumber. <S> The resulting shared load is very unlikely to tear out of your wall. <S> If you aren't concerned about the appearance of the masonry down the road, use 100% silicone or construction adhesive in a heavy bead down the back side of the lumber as an insurance measure. <A> I wouldn't risk installing this on the brick wall. <S> Brick is designed to resist compression, but not tension. <S> You can put a lot of weight on top and press down, but if you pull up with enough force, or knock it sideways like is typically done to take down the chimney, it and the mortar joints will fail with much less force. <S> Your pull up bar will push in and down on the bottom, but pull out with a tension force on the top, which is most likely where the brick will fail. <S> Check the install guides for your product, I'm guessing they recommend wood framing, maybe even 2x6. <A> I myself know someone who died from a pull up bar that was mounted in a doorway. <S> You don't have suitable support from brick and the bricks are hollow making matters worse. <S> If you don't have concrete wall I would run 2x6 lumber from the floor up to top of wall and frame it over the top and down the other side. <S> Then drill through the lumber and brick and use carrage bolts to fasten them together. <S> Then mount the bar on the 2x6 with 1/2 in. <S> lag bolts.
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If you have concrete wall behind the brick you must anchor through the brick with wedge anchors or sleeve anchors into the concrete wall.
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Does using central heating increase water usage? Its most likely a very trivial question but central heating systems aren't something i'm familiar with, I've had a good dig around on the internet and cannot find any reference that states that specifically using central heating consumes water, not considering any other form of water consumption e.g. using the shower. <Q> Only if you have a humidifier installed, and in that case it would be a very small quantity. <S> To determine whether your system has a humidifier, examine the primary ducts near the furnace unit. <S> Look for a tray or housing with a water line and possibly a power cord. <S> Here's an example. <S> Notice the unit attached to the intake duct. <S> It has a copper supply line and a PVC drain line. <A> Though depending on what type of central heating you're talking about, it may consume some water. <S> Forced Air Typically forced air heating will not consume any water. <S> However, if it's a gas/oil forced air system, a humidifier may be required. <S> The humidifier will consume water, though not a significant amount. <S> Hydronic heating <S> Obviously if you're using water to transfer heat around the home, you'll have to fill the system up. <S> You also might have to add a bit here <S> and there during regular maintenance. <S> If there's a leak in the system, and the system is automatically refilled. <S> Then water could be consumed, but how much would depend on the severity of the leak. <S> Electric heating <S> Electric heating will consume no water, unless you're generating your own hydroelectric power. <S> Geothermal Geothermal should not consume water, but may require water if the energy source is a lake/pond. <S> Wood heat <S> Burning solid fuels should not consume water, unless humidification is required. <A> You may have disqualified this already, but I thought I would mention it. <S> We humans are complex creatures. <S> We (and our pets) may consume more water when the heater is running. <S> I Will give you an example. <S> Here in Florida, we (my household) consume 25 Gallons of drinking water a month during the summer. <S> During the mild parts of the spring and fall we consume around 7 gallons. <S> During the winter we consume around 20 gallons. <S> The reason for this is simple. <S> In the summer it's hot. <S> In the spring and fall it's very nice. <S> During the winter however it's quite cool, and keeping the house warm means running the heater. <S> When the heater is running it pulls a lot of moisture from the air. <S> The humidity in the house drops and we need to drink more water to replace what we loose. <S> It may not seem like much but it makes a big difference in the amount of water we consume. <S> Keep in mind that the humidity here in Florida is normally quite high, and we are used to it. <S> The heater <S> it's self <S> does not consume water, but the people living in the house alter, slightly, their consumption. <S> Disclaimer <S> These numbers were gathered with some tracking to find out how much potable water would be needed on a house boat long term. <S> They are accurate for this house, but the point of the tracking was not to have any limits and simply track what was normally drunk. <A> If your system is an open loop geothermal heat pump then your water usage would increase dramatically with the heat running. <S> These systems draw heat from ground water and then dump it down a drain. <S> With all other water turned off, when your heat turns on, do you hear water running in your utility room? <S> These systems are becoming more popular in rural areas with well water <S> but they are not used with municipal water systems because of the cost of the water.
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Central heating should not significantly increase your water usage.
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How can I secure my spindles? My house has 3 stories, and from the first floor to the second it has spindles. My issue with them is that they seem very rickety, and don't support any weight what so ever. Is it possible to secure them? The top set seem to be much worse than the bottom. <Q> Stair hand rails are primarily supported at the top and bottom by the newel posts. <S> While some additional support is needed in a span over 5 or 6 feet, the handrail does not need dozens of braces. <S> You will often see an inside wall handrail with attachments that are several feet apart. <S> The spindles are primarily intended for safety, to prevent someone from slipping under the handrail on an open staircase. <S> No spindles on a full handrail run would allow the rail to flex too much, so they are necessary. <S> But if a number of them are loose, there is little likelihood of risk unless the attachment at the newels is also compromised. <S> Having said that, it makes sense to firm up the spindles. <S> Driving 1 1/2 or 2" finish nails on an angle, pinning the tops and bottoms of the spindles to the handrail and <S> the base should probably do it (much easier with a nailgun). <A> I know many times the spindles are only toe nailed in place. <S> If this is the case you could pull the nails and use wood glue and screws. <S> Make sure if you use screws to pre-drill the spindles or they will split. <A> You can try the underside of the handrails for the solutions here <S> How do I tighten <S> /loosen this recessed nut and bolt? <S> But, that will only fix the loose handrails & <S> maybe the spindles. <S> If the Newel Posts at the ends of the handrails are loose, you might be able to drill-out round plugs to re-tighten them, the same as the underside of the handrails (if you had that). <S> Otherwise, you might have to do something like this.
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You'll probably have to get a Carpenter or even a Stair Builder to fix your problems once & permanently.
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What should you do first paint ceiling and walls or strip and finish hardwood floors? I am remodeling my home and is putting on a fresh coat of paint and will be stripping and finishing the wood floors <Q> My general rule is that paint should generally be one of the last things that you do. <S> Refinishing a floor can make a horrible mess, and dust from sanding is going to end up all over the place. <S> Also, if you're taking any of the trim off (i.e. shoe molding) to do the floor the finish will look a lot better if it's done in one <S> go after it's reinstalled. <S> As for getting paint on the refinished floor, interior latex paints are incredibly easy to clean off of a newly finished floor (even after they've dried). <S> Not as much so on bare wood. <A> I have an easy rule. <S> If I am using latex <S> I do floors first. <S> If I am using oil, I do walls first. <S> Oil can be a bitch to clean up off of floors but really easy to clean dust/whatever off the walls. <S> Latex is basically the opposite. <S> You do not want to wipe <S> /clean a latex wall for probably 2 months after painting. <S> Also if the latex has not cured for at least 3-4 days (maybe longer) it can hold dust spores permanently. <A> If you repaint first, any paint spilled on the floor will be removed when you refinish. <S> The other direction is unlikely to happen. <A> First of all you don't need drop cloths. <S> If you are worried about dust on the walls, you can prim and first coat everything first and then refinish the floors. <S> You will have to cover the new floors for only one coat.
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It's probably going to be easier to clean up from the floor job before prepping the walls and ceiling for painting than it would be to clean up freshly painted walls. I always paint first.
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Garage door opener makes noise but doesn't move My Craftsman 139.53515SR - I/2HP garage door opener has worked fine for many years. For no reason that I can see, it stopped opening or closing the door yesterday. When I push the button to raise or lower it I hear some noise, like it's trying to work, then in a few seconds it stops and there has been no motion of the door or chain that raises and lowers it. Disengaging the door from the chain allows me to raise and lower the door without problem. It failed for 24 hours then started working. Here is a video of it not working:( What do you think is wrong? <Q> It sounds to me like the motor is not starting. <S> If you can manually lift the door, then I'd start by checking the motor capacitor. <S> If it's on the way out, that could explain the intermittent failure. <S> More likely you'll have to measure the capacitance, to make sure it's within a good operating range. <S> While the unit is open, inspect all the gears and sprockets. <S> Look for worn teeth, or gears that don't mesh properly. <S> Also inspect the sprocket on top of the unit (you'll have to remove the guard), to make sure it's meshing with the lift chain/belt. <A> My Craftsman from the up position would only go down about 6 inches and then reverse and stop. <S> I replaced the circuit board since the down pressure setting was maxed out. <S> That didn't fix the problem so <S> I researched more. <S> The forums suggested the motor rotation sensor was bad <S> so I replaced it, . . . <S> no help. <S> The forums suggested the sensors at the floor were bad <S> so I used a known good pair of sensors bypassing the existing wiring and still no difference. <S> I was at the end of my rope <S> and I looked at the motor shaft and pried it back and forth with a screw driver and noticed it had a bunch of slack. <S> The thrust collar had slipped a little which pushed the rotor of the rotation sensor past the sensor caliper on the circuit board. <S> I moved the thrust collar in to make it tighter, pushed the rotor on the shaft and presto, no problem. <S> Hope that helps someone. <A> Probably your drive sprocket, since everything else sounds normal & not hesitant or straining. <S> It might even be as simple as sliding the locking-pin back in. <S> It probably just worked itself loose & the springs finished raising the door <S> so you didn't notice anything. <S> The locking-pin is commonly a short split tube. <S> You'd actually want to spread it open a little more, so you need to hammer it in. <S> If it's longer than the sprocket head you might be able to flare the ends so it can't work loose again. <S> But, usually a Cotter-Pin can fit inside the Locking-Pin to then be your flare-out per se.
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You may notice physical damage to the capacitor (leaking, buldging, etc.).
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Can I replace a recessed lighting track without replacing the fixture housing? I have 20 year old track lights that I would like to replace. They are Lightolier brand which is now owned by Philips. The track heads have transformers in them that buzz loudly. New track heads are hard to come by and are about $100 each. When they were installed, they were recessed to be flush with the ceiling. Can I replace the track without replacing the recessed fixture? I can't tell if the track and fixture are one piece, or if the track is a separated piece that fits inside the fixture. The track part is 48 inches (4 feet) long and 1.25 inches wide. The recessed part is about 6 inches longer and wide enough that the track part appears to fit perfectly inside. Here is one of the track heads that I took apart. It has a surprising amount of circuitry in it. I would have expected the wires to connect directly to the bulb without anything intervening. <Q> The track and the housing are apparently separate components, judging by the photo. <S> The question is how well they're fastened together. <S> I'll be surprised if anyone knows that particular fixture well enough to tell you offhand. <S> I wouldn't hesitate to investigate. <S> Disconnect power and start disassembling. <S> Use a rotary grinder if necessary to remove rivets, screw tips, or sheet metal tabs. <A> These almost look custom made. <S> The track inside looks like standard track though. <S> Have you tried some other kinds of track lights to see if it will fit into this track? <S> Full voltage track lights don't use the transformers but use 120 volt lamps. <S> I would just buy some cheap lights at the box store and try them if they don't fit return them for refund. <S> Maybe even try a couple other brands or cheaper Phillips track lights. <S> Before you break it exhaust all your options. <S> The tracks themselves are probably good for 100 years. <S> Good luck! <A> That is Lightolier track. <S> The track, recessed "housing" and heads are all separate. <S> Lightolier has an inexpensive line of track heads you may want to consider. <S> Replacing the tracks just to get cheaper heads is quite a bit of work and you have the added cost of the tracks. <A> I managed to get the tracks out of the recessed housing without breaking anything. <S> There are two holes in the track with screws behind them. <S> Those screws accept a 1/8" allen wrench. <S> The tracks have a flange mechanism to hold them into the housing: <S> The housing is Lightolier brand like the track and lamps. <S> Once I removed the track, I found a sticker with information about it: It would not be easy to find new tracks this fit in this recessed container: <S> Tracks are not typically exactly 1.25" wide Tracks do not usually have this flange mechanism. <S> You would have to jury rig some other method of attaching them in the housing. <S> http://www.ylighting.com/blog/track-lighting-installation-tips/ explains the history of track lighting. <S> Lightolier pioneered a style of track and head that is now designed "L" (as in L ightolier). <S> The tracks are "LT" ( L ightolier T racks) and the heads that fit have "L" style connectors to the track. <S> All the WAC brand heads can be ordered in "L" style. <S> Those heads will fit Lightolier track. <S> (source: ylighting.com ) <S> Rather than replace the tracks, I have found some $30 track heads with "L" connectors that I am happy with. <S> I ordered one to test it <S> and it did fit the track. <S> It turns on an everything.
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You can likely replace just the track with a lesser brand as long as the width is the same, which it probably is.
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How to flush all the water lines in your house I live in a small (1-traffic-light) town in upstate NY. Some local village water officials accidentally cracked a water main (feeding water to the entire area) and so the Department of Health had to step in and issue a "Boil Water Alert" because the water could be contaminated. The alert was in effect for almost a week (!!!!) and is now lifted. The village is recommending to everyone that they " flush out all water lines in [our houses] " to get rid of any potentially contaminated water. Any ideas how I could do this properly? I have two young kids in the house and want to go by the book, for their sake. My wife thinks this is just as easy as running all the sinks and showers in the house for a few minutes. But... Is it really just a few minutes? Or should we run everything for longer? We have a 98-gallon water heater . Also, speaking of the water heater, doesn't that store hot water in some kind of separate compartment/tank than the cold water? If so, how do I flush out the hot water? Do I just run hot water?!? I'm a software engineer, so by definition, I'm probably overthinking this. But I would feel just awful if one of my sons got really sick because of some laziness on my part. <Q> You could just run the water for as long as you think it would take. <S> Probably would have to run the hot until the water runs cold, then a little longer. <S> This would basically ensure the water heater is cleared and the piping before it. <S> The cold wouldn't have to be ran as long, but your goal is to still clear the pipes out. <S> The best way to know that you've got all new water, and flush the house; is to shut off the main valve and then go to the lowest operable plumbing point in your house. <S> Like my water heater is in my basement <S> and it's drain valve at the bottom <S> is the lowest point in the house as the main water line comes in above this. <S> So, because of gravity, most of the water in the house would drain out of this. <S> If your heater isn't the lowest though, just search for the lowest drainage point. <S> Again just shut off the main valve <S> so no new water will enter the system yet. <S> If you go the route of through the heater, make sure to flip it's breaker. <S> Go turn on all sink handles too, both hot and cold, so that air can be brought into the piping and released when the water comes back on. <S> Once it stops draining, your house is now 90+% empty. <S> Close the valve back, (flip the heater's power back on), and turn back on the main water. <S> You'll hear rumbling and such from the sinks that you opened as the air clears the lines. <S> Once the water starts flowing from them like normal and there are no more sounds coming from the pipe, you're clear. <S> You could run them for another minute or two (take a cold shower) for that last little bit of water that could have been left in the pipes. <S> This doesn't work any better than just running the water for an hour or however long as far as cleaning the system, but it could save you some water and you'll know when it's done. <S> Last, if the home or plumbing supplies are older, you might have flakes of rust and such from your pipes show up in the aerators or the sinks. <S> Might not, but just remember this in the possibility that you're getting low pressure afterwards. <A> If the water heater is up to normal temperature bacteria cannot survive there. <S> I think your wife is right <S> ( I know that sucks ) <S> but if you are still nervous about it then run your water longer and turn up the temperature on your water heater for a while. <S> Make sure you run all your faucets including the outside hose bibs. <S> Good luck! <A> I agree with ArchonOSX <S> & it's probably <S> you're best option based on level of experience. <S> However, the Hose Bib would be the only & best option if it's attached before the Water Heater. <S> If not, then I'd flush the system for an hour, see last paragraph. <S> If not, then maybe you have a neighbor that can assist or do the following for you. <S> A much better alternative for the Water Heater is to drain the Water Heater & flush the line through it. <S> Once the Water Heater's drained, then you turn on just the cold water valve & let the water run through the empty tank & out of the hosed hose bib at the bottom...for at least 10-minutes. <S> Without the alternative above, a full Water Heater as big as yours could take an hour to reasonably fill with gunk & be diluted by clean water mixing in. <S> There's also no reason to try & heat water while flushing, so turn the Water Heater off or way down & remove any faucet aerators. <A> We had a similar situation here in the UK last year where due to containments the water was unsafe to drink. <S> The official advice here is simply: <S> Q: How do I know if my pipes are safe? <S> A: <S> If you have been using your water as usual e.g. flushing the toilets, washing, showers and baths etc, then the water that we have been supplying to your home will have flushed any bugs out of your plumbing system. <S> If you have been away from home or your business has been closed, and no water has been flowing through the pipes, then you should run your tap for a short time to ensure that fresh mains water comes through. <S> If you don't drink the water from the hot storage tank, I see no need to have to empty it. <S> I can't say for certain that the US advice would be the same, but I don't see why it would be significantly different.
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You'd shut off the gas & power to the Water Heater, close the hot & cold water valves above the Water Heater & open the top side valve to then open the bottom hose bib with hose attached to drain the Water Heater.
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How to improve this table stability? I built this tall wooden table for working while standing. The problem is that it's a little bit unstable(shaky) horizontally. What is the minimum work I can do to make it stable? Edit: Diagonal bracings on sides successfully worked. <Q> The minimum would be diagonal bracing on back and side. <S> +---+| /|| <S> / <S> | <S> |/ <S> |+---+ Triangles resist lateral forces much better than rectangles do. <A> You could add some very large steel L brackets to brace the legs and try to stiffen them a bit, but it would still be somewhat shakey. <S> The "right" way to fix this is to use "cross bracing". <S> The two cross members you have on the back should be diagonal instead of horizontal. <S> Diagonal cross members prevent the side-to-side wobble that makes your table feel unstable. <S> This image isn't a table but it does illustrate the concept: One diagonal brace will help, but two will give the most stiffness. <S> You can add these in addition to the horizontal pieces you already have. <A> Just in basic table design you are missing the horizontal supports right under your table top. <S> The first three horizontal supports are not only too low, too thin, but they are also installed wrong. <S> You have them going across the table legs. <S> If they were inside the table legs the tables would be set to a fix point. <S> As it stands you have created a flex point and it will loosen over time. <S> You can keep the design aspects the same. <S> But simply adding a 3-4 inch piece (4 pieces total) right under the top and in between each leg will really change the performance. <S> If you just google images of "tables" you will see many like yours without cross support. <S> Notice that almost all have the four stabilizers at the top. <A> I see 2 options to stabilize your bench. <S> #1 add a L bracket at the top of each back leg and secure to the wall <S> it looks like OSB <S> so it should be very stable even if no studs are in that location. <S> I like #1 <S> but if you want to be able to move it around #2 would be better. <A> Leg levelers come in various sizes and shape (e.g., http://www.amazon.com/Combination-Leg-Equalizer-Set-4/dp/B001DT32PC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_200_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41%2Bdv2zCIzL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z948VXVGHBJCVBS8T39 ). <S> Of course, you could just use a shim under one leg so all 4 meet the floor at the same time.
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#2 add X bracing to the back legs if it tends to wobble front to back adding X bracing to the back to front on each side should keep it from moving.
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How can I protect ultra thin paint on new kitchen cabinets? I just got new kitchen cabinets, and the paint on the doors (which are hard wood) is ultra-ultra thin. It seems like it will scratch very easily. Is there a way to protect? They are being installed now. Is it reasonable for me to ask for something with a thicker stain/paint/better level of protection (as opposed to this thin paint)? Or can I add a polyurethane to protect them? I think they look kind of cheap due to the ultra thin paint ... Related question - the cabinets are plywood and also have this very thin protective coating (if you notice the edge between the front and the top, you will see just how thin the stain/paint is... I would like to beef them up somehow.. <Q> That's probably not paint/stain, it's veneer . <S> They build the cabinets out of medium-density fiberboard (MDF) , then cover the exterior with veneer to make it look nicer. <S> If the doors truly are hardwood, then they should hold up well against scratches. <S> If they show wear over time, they can always be refinished. <A> The plywood today & especially the stuff used in mass production cabinetry is a super thin finished surface skin that's part of the plywood. <S> I would call the manufacturer & see if they have any information on what "finish" is comprised of & what they may recommend as an additional Clear Coat. <S> The manufacturer will likely not say anything, since you'd be screwing with their product, but it's worth a shot to at least find out what's on there. <S> By all rights it should be a normal wood stain covered by a coat or 2 of polyurethane clear coat. <S> This should be sufficient for the next few years or normal use. <S> I'd refrain from doing anything else as you're likely to ruin the spray-on factory look, especially if you would plan on brushing on another coat or 3 of clear coat or haven't done it before. <A> You have a very thin layer then plywood. <S> These are terrible cabinets for kitchens. <S> When I am doing a house and we find these we either scratch sand and paint or order replacement doors that are hardwood. <S> I would also test before using poly or clear coating (can do spray paint). <S> I am going to venture out and say poly won't look good because there are no wood grains and this is how you hide lines and streaks with poly. <S> Probably better off with spray paint. <S> If done in ultra light coats this can do the job. <S> Practice on a non-visible side and try to give them at least a few hours between coats.
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If your doors aren't solid hardwood and I am guessing since you are asking this question then the only thing you can do to protect them is to put layers of poly or clear coat on them.
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Properly Venting a Dryer BACKGROUND INFO: We have an upstairs laundry room with the dryer vented directly into the attic space! House was built in '84, maybe had three previous owners before us. Not sure what the code was back then, but what you see in the picture was probably NEVER up to code to begin with! QUESTIONS: Is there anything I should keep in mind when running my new solid metal vent pipe to the outside exterior wall through this attic space? Since I'm dealing with insulation, does it have to be protected? Is there a certain clearance from the insulation required? PLAN: Our current dryer actually vents very close to the floor, so I would like the piping to run as low as possible to avoid lots/any flex tube for a straight shot outside. As you can probably tell from the picture, right now in the laundry room there is about 4' of flex hose connecting the bottom of the dryer to this higher up "vent" hole in the wall right into the attic. <Q> Just that a long vertical can result in more cold air injection--the weight of a column creates more downforce. <S> The same is true in reverse for hot-attic days. <S> Also, as you can plainly see, dryers emit lint. <S> You might consider a soffit vent to keep the lint off your roof. <S> Nope. <S> Pack it snug to the vent pipe. <S> Nope. <S> Fire is not a concern here. <A> Oh, your own homemade blown-in insulation, every bit helps. <S> Yeah, I totally agree with the gable wall idea. <S> You'd see that it's working & clear. <S> And, easier cleanouts requiring just a vacuum & vent end removal...nothing to move nor disconnect inside. <S> Strong flow because of just one bend & fully supported. <S> But, you're plan is solid. <A> Everything in the other answers and here's my input. <S> The hot, moist air will condense on the inside of the duct during the winter <S> and you can end up with water leaking out or mold and rust inside the vent. <S> They make insulated flexible metal duct that would be an easy run, but I'm not sure how long of a run <S> you're allowed to use it for. <S> Also consider you'll have to clean this <S> every so often so keep things somewhat accessible.
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You might want to thick about insulating the duct. Much easier & safer to install with better waterproofing. You could throw some drywall or cement board scraps under it to abate any fire ideas. I also agree with running it along the joists.
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Effect of changing the size of a pipe I've had a couple questions above the sizing of a pipe, but I'm still a little confused and can't find an easy answer. I'll use this image to get a representation of what I'm looking to have answered. Sizes shouldn't matter, but if they were; we'll assume the small pipes are both 1/2" and the big pipe is just 3/4". What effect does it have on the water flow to increase the pipe size (into the center larger pipe)? And then what effect does it have on the flow to decrease the size? The shape doesn't have to be a U like this; I just figured it'd knock out two birds with one stone. It simply represents an increase and then a decrease. You can treat them separately in the answers or as a whole if it does matter. My general thoughts, from what I have been able to read through online, is that the pressure might slightly increase when going into the larger pipe or decrease when going down. Simply because of friction though - smaller pipe has more friction towards the water than the larger pipe. If this were one piece of plumbing, would the pressure out at the right be relatively the same as the pressure in at the left? The other thing I see if the speed of the water. Increasing the pipe size slows down the water flow and decreasing the pipe size speeds it up? Again though, if it were one piece, would this balance out and the speed out would be like the speed in? <Q> The velocity, flow rate, and pressure will be nearly identical at the inlet and outlet of that assembly. <S> The only difference will be energy lost while moving through the pipe, e.g. pressure drop due to resistance. <A> You should see the same water pressure on both sides of the bigger section of pipe. <S> I wouldn't expect the bigger pipe to really make any pertinent difference. <S> The water will flow more slowly in the bigger pipe, but the pressure will increase (Bernoulli's law, the same thing that makes an airplane wing fly, but applied to fluid dynamics). <S> The water will fill and pressurize the bigger pipe, and the greater pressure in the section of big pipe will force the water into the small pipe on the far side at the same velocity that the water entered on the near side. <S> Again due to the phenomenon described by Bernoulli's law, faster-moving water in the smaller pipe will exert less pressure on the pipe. <S> That isn't to say that there is less energy in the smaller section of pipe. <S> Part of that energy is accounted for in the greater momentum of the fluid. <S> So the water coming out the end of that pipe will be moving with as much force as the water that went into the other end. <A> A larger pipe, and lower velocity, has less pressure loss. <S> The fittings in a larger pipe also have less pressure loss. <S> So, all things considered, if you want to lose less pressure through a series of pipes and fittings, you increase the size. <S> The trade-off is that bigger pipes and fittings cost more, and, as noted in a comment here, bigger pipes would take longer to deliver hot water. <S> In the example you drew, the larger pipe, and the elbows on that larger pipe would mean that you would get more of the original pressure to the fitting, rather than losing it to friction in the pipe, compared to if you went with small pipe the whole way. <S> The difference would depend on the flow rate, which is why many different sizes of pipe exist. <S> At the end, for a real world system, the losses have to be calculated to determine what is the best trade-off between cost and pressure loss.
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There is actually an additional pressure loss introduced just by changing the pipe size (and will depend on what kind of fitting you use to do that), because the water has to change directions (flowing out or in rather than straight down the pipe), so that also has to be accounted for when you decide if it's worth it to increase pipe size.
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Is this gravel stabilizing underlament an effective product? Does anyone have any experience with a gravel stabilizing product? I'll say, somehow I've never seen this before, but it looks genius; especially if you could create a reasonable driveway out of this stuff that wouldn't buckle under a car's load. What are your opinions on it? Is it worth buying to use for regular pathways as well or is it best just dealing with slight shifting? If I were to use something like this, I'd probably create a secondary parking area and/or a new walkway to our back porch. (with stone edging, it could look nice for just about any project). Does it work? Does the gravel shift much or show the grid? What are the ups or downs of a system like this? <Q> Yes, it is used in construction somewhat commonly. <S> There are a couple of different situations where I have personally be involved with its use: <S> Soil stabilization for large fills - <S> In areas where the ground is soft and heavy construction equipment needs to move (e.g. access roads) it can be placed in layers and filled with soil to help distribute the weight of the equipment without forming ruts. <S> Gravel parking lots - Similar situations involving parking lots and gravel are used to provide natural water infiltration while still providing a surface that is less likely to rut. <S> "Invisible" roads - The fill material can be modified slightly to support grass growth. <S> This has been used to provide lawn areas that can support fire trucks for emergency access in all conditions while not having to pave a road up to a building. <S> All of these situations are similar in that they provide for a distribution of wheel loads on soft or wet soil. <S> In summary, these types of products are used in construction, so they are equally applicable home use. <A> There was an episode of This Old House where they used it to make a patch of grass that could be driven over. <S> They filled the holes with soil, and then put sod over the top. <S> I'm not sure if this is the same product, but it looks very similar to what they used on the show. <S> According to the website of one of the manufacturers, it can support up to 65 tonnes of weight. <S> That should be strong enough to support just about any kind of vehicle. <S> Here is a link to the website. <S> It appears that the best application is to be used on paths that have light vehicle traffic, and/or grassy areas that can be occasionally driven over. <S> Here is a link to their installation guide . <A> I haven't used it & only saw it here or there, but a whopping 1-minute of familiarization showed it has some pretty awesome claims. <S> However, it would seem to be mostly for water management. <S> If you need that then yeah go for it <S> & I don't see why you wouldn't be able to plow snow off of it. <S> But, the problem I see is if you envision keeping the grid covered & unseen, you won't be successful even with an edge retainer. <S> There's no place for the gravel to lock-in, so it will travel freely. <S> The grid's use seems to intend that the grid remains visible. <S> One major flaw I imagine is ground settlement. <S> If the ground washes away or you have large freeze heaving stones, the grid will rise or fall with its base. <S> You'll no longer have something flat, & due to the grid you won't be able to keep a filling topper in place & high spots would require trimming the grid itself down. <A> The problem I have noticed is that if the grid is exposed then it is really unpleasant to walk on. <S> It digs into your feed even through the soles of your shoes. <S> And at least on the canal towpaths the grid does sometimes end up exposed <S> , how long that takes to happen, what the ground conditions were like and what they were filling it with I don't know.
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I have seen this stuff used to reinforce canal towpaths in the UK.
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Hand tool for packing dirt What is a good simple hand tool for packing small surfaces of dirt to prepare it for laying concrete? I've seen big pneumatic hammers at large construction sites and was wondering if there is a good manual version of it. <Q> I use a plate tamper. <S> Most of the hardware stores, garden centers, and big box home improvement places around here carry them. <S> Image from http://www.naturalbuildingblog.com/tampers-from-building-supply-centers/ <A> It's basically a flat retangular metal plate with a slot for a handle. <A> Contrary to common opinion, you don't need a special tool for every job. <S> Depends on the size and depth <S> you may get away using a sledge hammer to ram the soil down. <S> If the hole is deep/narrow, a scrap length of timber (lumber) around 4x2 and long enough to reach the bottom is adequate. <S> Use it as is, or like a big nail punch in combination with that sledgehammer. <S> Put in <S> no more than 1-2 inches (25-50 mm) of soil and pack it down. <S> Don't try compacting thicker layers by hand, you'll just end up with a layer cake of looser and firmer layers. <S> I might do something like this a couple times a year, and its worked fine for me. <A> It allows you to concentrate a great deal of force in a small area. <S> It is slow and impractical for larger jobs, but if you just have one or a couple of holes to do, it works great.
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Try just using the non-business end of a shovel. Search for a tool called a " dirt tamper "
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Kohler Push Button Diverter Leaking from Shower My plumber just installed the fixtures in my shower/tub and the shower stays running when the tub spout is running. I can tell he didn't even test it because when I turned on the water, I could hear the air getting flushed out. Even with the tub spout running at a low flow, the shower still leaks. All parts are brand new and I highly doubt the diverter is defective. Any feedback or tips would be appreciated. I called the plumber but he hasn't gotten back to me yet. Here's a photo before tiling. Any ideas here? I'm fearful that we'll have to cut the drywall on the other side to fix this... <Q> So it looks like it was a bad part <S> , see the o-ring missing below. <S> BTW, you just need a deep socket wrench to remove the diverter, I wasted a few hours looking for plumber's wrenches before figuring this out...lol. <S> Glad <S> it's working now <S> but this valve kit was brand new, seems odd that something so critical would be missing. <S> Also the part that I pulled seems used or refurbished (see discoloration). <S> I hope the rest of the valve is ok. <A> If the plumber didn't check for leaks he probably didn't let the water flush-out any pipe debris or other particles from the supply lines. <S> Check for obstructions at the valve body. <S> Also check the diverter for proper function with the valve fully opened. <S> The more water pressure the tighter the seal. <A> 1: It's called brand-new-broken. <S> 2 <S> : If it was the plumber's fault, they melted a seal or something while soldering. <S> After being advised by both of these parties, you'll know better about who gets to pay to fix it. <S> If it's #1, you might have to eat the labor on it yourself, less the cost of the new valve, plus you get to re-tile. <S> If it's #2, you have to "play nice" or call lawyers.
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Get on the horn with the manufacturer of the valve.
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Is it safe to attach a bath screen to a steel stud behind tile? I'm putting a 13 kg screen up in my bathroom, which has tile and then plasterboard or drywall, not sure which. There is a metal girder, about 4 inches wide, that runs vertically up the wall, exactly where I need to attach the screen. Am I safe going through the metal stud and fixing the screen like that? Thanks a lot <Q> As long as there aren't any wires or plumbing in the area, because your entire drill bit length will plunge into the void & get whatever's there when the hole is complete. <S> You can avoid the plunge with a Depth Stop, Depth Gauge or block of wood or 2 (screwed together & screws protruding outside the girder edges to prevent spin) on top of the girder to catch the drill. <S> But, if all's clear then yep have at it. <A> Molly Bolts, Mushroom Head Bolts or Toggle Bolts as big an end wing that will fit or could be re-drilled for would be best see one version here <A> If you're talking about steel stud and track framing used for non-load-bearing interior walls, those studs are actually pretty flimsy. <S> They rely on the interconnected pieces plus the attached wall material, working as a system, to have any strength. <S> The sheet metal in the stud will distort if you try to use just the stud to hold something. <S> So don't count on drilling a pilot hole and then screwing into it like a sheet metal nut to hold a load. <S> If the plasterboard or drywall is attached to the stud, the stud can serve as a flimsy washer or backing, similar to how the paper surface of drywall adds strength to the plaster. <S> Drill through it (using precautions as Iggy describes). <S> Then use anchors that would be appropriate if the stud wasn't there. <S> The stud will provide a little extra strength for anything that expands or toggles behind the wall. <S> It could prevent wings or a toggle from properly deploying, or they could deploy behind the stud and then the stud could deform over time, loosening the anchor. <S> So if you aren't sure about what's behind the wall, try to probe the hole with a piece of wire with a short bend at the tip to figure it out, or use anchors that rely on just the hole within the wall material.
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However, if the wall material isn't actually fastened to the metal stud (there is a gap between the wall material and the stud), the stud could interfere with anchoring.
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What is the best adhesive for making styrofoam sandwich panels? I wanted to make some panels in which styrofoam sheets are sandwiched in between 2 steel sheets. What kind of adhesives are best for this job. I also want the fastest curing time for adhesive because I want to make these panels using a fast technique. <Q> I recently built a sandwich as hitting platform for a golf simulator; two pieces of 1/4" plywood with 2" styrofoam insulation in the middle. <S> Spray adhesive failed. <S> I then used the Liquid Nails Panel adhesive and it is working well. <A> The "strongest" thing that I have ever found for attatching styrofoam was silicone. <S> But silicone takes 24 hours to dry; also you may want/need to rough-sand the steel to help the silicone stick to it. <S> Another ok choice for much less money is Elmers (water based glue); but if it is beading up on the foam it's probably too watery. <S> You can add acetone or MEK to help it spread on styrofoam. <S> There are different kinds of foams (or materials that get called styrofoam) and glues, so be sure to test the acetone or ketone solvent on a small piece of foam and test the solvent with a small amount of glue, to make sure it all works well. <S> I suppose it's well known that petrol will dissolve styrofoam. <A> To get a quick grab, use the pull-apart technique with panel adhesive <S> that's suitable for foam. <S> (Standard construction adhesive has solvents that ruin foam, and therefore don't bond.) <S> Apply the adhesive in a suitable pattern using about a 1/4" bead. <S> Press the components firmly together, then pull them apart. <S> Let them sit exposed to the air for a few minutes, then press them together again. <S> They'll act as contact adhesive, so position the parts carefully. <S> You may need to experiment a bit with your particular adhesive, climate, and humidity to get the right timing. <A> If you use foam board adhesives with solvent will dissolve the foam and not grip as well. <S> I have used PL300 from loctite or you could use an equivalent. <S> It has worked well bonding to concrete and wood. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-VOC-Adhesive-1421941/202020476 <S> Good luck!
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My opinion is that silicone works well because it is soft and seeps into the crevices between the styrofoam pearls.
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Remove hard amber glue from tile and bathtub? I'm not sure what kind of glue this is. It's an amber color and it's very rigid, like hard plastic. I've tried Goo Gone, which didn't do anything. I was able to chip away at it with a putty knife, but it's slow work and I'm afraid of damaging the tile/bathtub. Any suggestions ? <Q> It looks like an Epoxy adhesive. <S> Chipping away is okay if your careful. <S> But, try a single sided razor blade. <S> A lot of the time you get right under it & almost peel it off. <S> You can also lightly hammer these types of razor blades. <S> Holding it with gloves or with pliers. <S> You'll also want the razor blade to actually scrape or peel any residue away after the bulk is off. <S> I'm not sure if nail polish remover, turpentine, minerals spirits or acetone would do much in the bulk removal, but any of those would be great for the final clean up. <A> since its rigid and brittle, its most likely an epoxy. <S> the only solvent i know of that will dissolve it will be methylene chloride. <S> hard to get, carcinogenic, but good solvent for this. <S> just make sure you wear silicone gloves <S> (get a bunch as it can dissolve certain silicones too) and a full face respirator with a VOC cartridge or two in it. <S> you can get it at your local plastics supply house or fabricator, or at a boat supply store (its used sometimes for acrylic and fiberglass work) <S> heres the rub - if its an acrylic tub, it will dissolve the acrylic too, so go slow and in a controlled manner. <S> you might be better to mechanically abrade away what you can first. <S> even if you chip or scratch the acrylic, it won't be an issue. <S> if you haze the surface with some errant solvent, you can just polish it up later with buffing compounds. <S> if its a porcelainized steel tub, the mc will not do it any harm. <S> just dissolve away. <S> don't mechanically abrade anything because if you chip the porcelain, now you have a permanent rust starting location. <A> After scraping, there was some small remnants of glue. <S> I used a low grid sandpaper to get rid of those. <S> I worked slowly with sandpaper to only rub on the glue. <S> It did leave some scratches on the tile, but you could only notice them close up.
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I ended up using a heat gun to soften the glue, and then I was able to easily scrape it away with a putty knife.
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Brad or Finish Nail Gun I am replacing all the trim along the floor in the house, 3 bedrooms, office, living room, hallways, and media room. To save some effort I'll be getting a nail gun. For wall trim like this would a brad nail gun (18 gauge) be okay or do I need a finish nail gun (16 gauge)? Thanks <Q> for all you fully armed and operational weapons out there, remember there are wires and pipes inside walls. <S> usually the min. <S> setback is 1 1/4 from the stud face. <S> so if you put a 3" "finish" nail through a 1" casing and 1/2" drywall, you are well within the realm of punching a hole through something wet or something sparky. <S> we have been using nothing but 18ga brads for 20 years to do everything from trimwork to cabinetry. <S> never had a warranty callback for any of it. <S> remember its not the size of the nail, but how you use it. <A> A finish nail gun is for finish carpentry, exactly what you're talking about: wall trim, etc. <S> If your brad nailer can fit 2" nails <S> I guess you could use it for trim, but I don't think most of them will fit fasteners that long. <S> The larger gauge is also preferred as well for base shoe trim, which is going to get abused. <A> Chances are you'll need both, depending on the size of nails you're working with. <S> IMO, brad is for up to 1-1/4", finish for 1-1/4"-2" but that also depends on the type of your nailers. <S> YMMV. <A> A 2"- 18 gauge gun will be fine.
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A brad nailer is for super delicate work; building furniture and such, like attaching the cardboard backing to ikean cabinets or tiny moldings that would shatter with a larger gauge.
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Why can the connections of a recessed light be buried in drywall, but not junction boxes? I'm redoing lights in our kitchen and have to splice some lines. I have read numerous threads that all say you cannot bury the junction box in the drywall, it has to be accessible.The recessed lights I'm putting in all have a junction box attached to them, and will end up 'buried' behind drywall so only the opening for the light is exposed.Here is a picture of the recessed housing. Once drywall is installed, the connections for the light will be inaccessible, much in the way a junction box with splices in it would be hidden behind drywall. Why is this considered acceptable when a box with splices in it is not acceptable to be buried behind the drywall? The only thing I can think of is that you would be certain where the junction was. If ability to locate the box is the only reason it's ok, what if I as the owner retain information about where the buried box is?I realize some day we may sell the house, or I might die and the house will go to someone else who doesn't know the boxes location... is that the only concern? <Q> If you search this on the internet you will find the fixture can be disassembled and the j-box can be accessed through the hole that the fixture is in. <S> Therefore the joints are still accessible. <S> Like here . <S> If you bury a box under drywall it does not meet the definition of accessible according the Code since you would have to remove a portion of the building to access it. <A> If a box was behind the Sheetrock and a connection failed it takes a very expensive tool to find where the break in the wire is and not all electricians have them. <A> The light will be exactly where it's at later down the road in the future and in plain sight. <S> Hiding a junction box will only lead to problems for anyone involved. <S> If anything goes wrong or you decide to try something and you have to rip it up to get at, you won't want to hide it again. <S> My old house has both hidden boxes and powered knob and tube connections that were reused, thanks to the last owner on his 'full rewiring of the house'. <S> Knob and tube wiring doesn't use boxes at all, but also splices <S> just about anywhere they wanted to. <S> It's terrible to troubleshoot. <S> Best practice, if you don't want to see junction boxes, is to avoid using them by planning out the connections.
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It's a real pain trying to find the things, safely getting to them without damaging the wires, and especially finding them if you don't even suspect there being one. You are correct with the fixture in the ceiling you know there is at least 1 junction in the box of the fixture.
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Convert a ceiling fan controlled by two switches to a remote control I would like to convert a ceiling fan with light from 2 switches (one for the light and one for the fan) to a single remote control. Is there a best practice or do I just pick a line and cap off one at the ceiling fan box? Is there anyway to keep both the fan and light on separate switches and have them both remote control as well? Thanks <Q> You'd need to replace the switch with a remote controlled switch. <S> Since you currently have two outputs, you'd need to find one that has two outputs - I believe they sell one which has a button for the fan and another for the light. <S> Regardless, they'd still have to be separate. <S> Also, getting this to work would require no modification to the fan itself or the wiring at it. <S> Everything would be changed at the switches. <S> If you can't find a remote switch module that allows two outputs, then you'd have to leave one currently as is and only control the other. <A> You can buy fan remote kits. <S> The transmitter fits in fan junction box and comes with wireless remote. <S> You wouldn't have to touch light switches. <S> There is different brands that work with specific fans. <A> Since you are wanting to use a remote rather than a switch, just hook one of the hot wires coming out of the ceiling to a remote receiver's black wire and hook the white wire from the receiver to a common in the ceiling. <S> There are 3 wires coming out of the receiver. <S> These are black, white, and red or blue (color wire). <S> Hook the white to the white coming from the fan; the black to the black coming from the fan and the color wire to the blue coming from the fan...
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Cap off the unused hot wire coming from the ceiling making one of the two switches on the wall inoperable.
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Pros and cons of painting cinder block in basement? I have owned my house for 5 years. The outside wall of the laundry room in the basement is unfinished cinderblock. The cinderblock wall looks a bit unsightly, with dabs of paint, and the rough surface collects dust. The basement does not get water. In the summer, I run a dehumidifier. What are the pros and cons on painting the interior side of the cinderblock wall? If there are no real cons, what type of paint should I consider using? <Q> pros - looks better, smoother surface that makes less dust <S> cons - seals the surface up well which prevents moisture from evaporating from the block. <S> if its 100% sealed on the outside, it wont be an issue, but if you have any moisture, it will trap it in the block. <S> painting block is an extremely common commercial/industrial finish process. <S> the trick is to use the right approach and material. <S> step 1 - fill and seal with concrete prep coat. <S> this material is usually sprayed or put on with a texture gun, but if you want you could probably do it by roller (i wouldnt bother, just spray it) <S> https://www.dulux.ca/pro/products/masonry-coatings/perma-crete-ltc-concrete-block-and-masonry-surface <S> step 2 - paint over with whatever you want omit the sealer <S> and you can count on 10 coats minimum to seal it up properly. <A> You need to paint the block first with block-filler paint then your finish coat. <S> However, if you regularly have moisture coming through the the basement wall the only way for it to dry is to the inside. <S> One coat of a latex primer/paint may improve your appearance and still allow the wall to breathe. <S> Good luck! <A> I have been waterproofing basement for over 10 years and this is 100% from my experience... <S> not a sales pitch... <S> Basements should never be painted and I'm strongly against it for the following Reasons: <S> Painting a wall will cause a damming effect in the wall which will stop the natural exhaust of water into the home... <S> You will see this by the white substance known as efflorescence. <S> Lyme and calcium, crystallization which occurs when water evaporates on concrete... <S> anyone who has a block basement has seen this... <S> the "Damming Effect" will allow the water that naturally plows into the porous block from the exterior side of the house enter in and fill up the voids in the block causing the water to hold and move further upward... <S> everyone knows water flows down hill and trust me... <S> Water will find a way into your home... <S> So Painting will cause the following: Mold Pealing Paint Water building in the wall Breaking don of the mortar joints and Water on your Floor... <A> The only real cons are taking it off if you ever want to & putting it on in the first place. <S> The pit holes or pock marks will need to be dabbed with a brush after your primer or sealer gets rolled-on & <S> then again after your first & 2nd finish coats. <S> But, you're right & those are the pros of painting it. <S> Keeping it maintained is nothing really, if you get some peeling or flaking in the future, you just scrape it off with a putty knife or scraper & paint over it with the rest of the wall. <S> You'll want at least 3 finish coats in order to flatten it out reasonably. <S> Wait a day or even 2 between coats, including after the primer or sealer goes on. <S> The wall will take a full month to cure. <A> But, you'll have to do it again in 10 to 20 years.
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It looks better and if you have any moisture and use a sealing paint, the room will be dryer. By painting the wall you will trap the moisture behind the wall which will eventually cause the paint to fail. An Exterior Masonry Sealer or Primer goes on first & then an Interior 100% Acrylic paint.
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What are the pros and cons of cast iron vs. porcelain covered steel bathtubs? What are the pros and cons of cast iron vs. porcelain covered steel bathtubs? I'm wanting a free standing bathtub but do not want the fiberglass or acrylic type that are common now. <Q> Great call. <S> Cast Iron's bottom & sides are solid, none others are. <S> Steel is quite bouncy & hollow sounding. <S> Cast Iron is very heavy <S> so consider that if you'll be installing yourself. <S> You'll want 3 other helpers & to make a stretcher under its rim out of 2x4's & treat it like a King or Queen...unless winding stairs or shallow hallways will be a length issue. <A> Claw foot tubs cost more than modern steel tubs by about one order of magnitude, but you sure do get what you pay for. <S> A cast iron tub will survive being removed and installed multiple times, whereas a steel one might need to be replaced in your lifetime. <S> They're ~$150, why would you ever reuse an old and abused steel tub? <S> A used and slightly abused claw foot tub is worth repairing however, if it ever becomes damaged, and should serve you well until the end of your days. <S> Provided, you never chip the enamel and don't use any incorrect cleaning products on it. <S> This applies to both types, but cast iron tubs are much more tolerant of abrasive abuse and impacts, as they generally have a thicker coating of enamel. <A> steel is flexible and i have never actually seen a freestanding steel tub (i would be interested if you have). <S> it typically is stronger than cast iron, so its made in thinner sections. <S> steel tends to continue rusting, whereas iron tends to passivate and slow or stop rusting once it has an oxide layer. <S> it tends to be a heavier section than steel, so its correspondingly heavier as a tub. <S> both corrode, and both are heavy. <S> you have to ensure the coating (porcelain, enamel or urethane) <S> have to be kept intact. <S> patch or wax at first sign of a chip or crack steel tubs are easier to get into place. <S> cast iron tubs are brutally heavy and can actually require floor and stair reinforcement just to get them into place.
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cast iron is readily available, but its a porous material that is intrinsically brittle.
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Fluorescent fixture won't stay lit I have a two-bulb F28T5 light fixture that went out and replacing the bulbs with new ones did not fix it. So I replaced the ballast with a new one. The lights come on but go out within a second or so. I cleaned the prongs that hold the light with alcohol and a Q-Tip but that didn't help. I bent the prongs inward slightly and then the bulbs stayed lit for at least five minutes, long enough that no one noticed when they went back out. I tried rotating the bulbs in their sockets again but, as before, they only stay on for a second and go out. The only thing I can think is that, perhaps, one of the bulb holders is bad or loose but, with it staying on as long as it did before, I wonder if there's something I'm not thinking of. <Q> If the lights actually light then apparently the lamps and wiring are good. <S> I would suspect the ballast. <S> Is your ballast rated for T5 or T8 lamps? <S> The 'F' on the lamp is just the wattage rating. <S> I believe the two lamps are incompatible with the ballasts designed for them respectively. <S> A lot of the T5 ballasts are listed as high output or HO. <S> shop for ballasts <S> and I think you will find they are lists for one or the other but not both. <S> Good luck! <A> Lampholders (tombstones) are the cheapest component in a fluorescent fixture. <S> I would definitely go there next. <S> Inspect them for arcing or scorching. <S> Also make sure the "backstab" connections in the back of the lampholders are secure. <S> I could see a lampholder failing as the lamp warmed up. <S> Make sure you bent the bulb pins the right direction so it presses harder against the contacts, not weaker. <S> Several outlets online sell a good variety, but they are probably pretty standard. <S> Also double-check that the ballast and bulbs are compatible <S> , it is easy to make errors in that area. <A> When electronic ballast were mandated one big difference was the range of lamps they could support multiple or universal input voltage and more lamp types than the old mag ballasts. <S> With that said it is import and your lamp type is listed on the ballast for example a straight t5 ho lamp with a non HO ballast will overheat and shutdown. <S> Although t5 led retrofits are harder to find you may want to consider a lamp retrofit (get a quality DLC certified retro kit) <S> I have hundreds of fixtures and have started replacing the Flouresents with LED ballast bypass <S> then you won't have any more ballast problems. <S> Note there are several advantages here. <S> First is lower operation cost. <S> 2nd Flouresents light level drop off quickly <S> I just put a t5 led a few feet from a fixture that was relamped last year <S> , the difference in light output is huge (same wavelenth or light color). <S> Since you have a 2 bulb fixture you could change over for ~$20 and not have to worry about ballast compatibility. <S> If you stay with Flouresents make sure the lamp type is listed.
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You need the lamps that match your ballast.
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Can fill hoses be reused for a new washer? I'm finding that major appliance retailers and manufacturers insist that a new washer requires new fill hoses. Used fill hoses cannot be reused, it is claimed. Of course I have to wonder about this since (a) many (most?) units do not come with the required hoses and (b) the folks dispensing this advice would happily sell me new hoses. If a new washer requires new hoses, what is the justification for not including them as a matter of course? Can old fill hoses be reused? If not, why not? <Q> "what is the justification for not including them as a matter of course?" <S> there are numerous choices when it comes to type and length of hose. <S> Cheaper rubber hoses, more expensive stainless steel braided jacket rubber hoses, lengths from 4' to 12' long, etc. <S> "Can old fill hoses be reused? <S> If not, why not?" <S> They certainly can be reused. <S> If you are confident enough that they are in good shape then feel free to use old hoses (you should replace the washers at the end connections). <S> The downside is that, unless you turn your water supply valves off every time you leave your house, an old hose that fails can easily cause catastrophic flooding of your home. <S> You need to make your decision based on a risk assessment putting the cost of new high quality hoses against the chances of and cost of a hose failure. <S> I bought brand new supply valves with quick 1/4 turn ball-valve construction to facilitate easy shut-off, and the best quality braided stainless hoses; and I shut off the valves whenever I will be gone for more than a day, because I do not want to come home to a flooded house. <A> It is however highly discouraged to re-use them. <S> The reasoning has to do with the aging and set that a pair of hoses hanging behind washer get in the course of years. <S> Almost all hose materials get less flexible over time and could even be subject to forming a crack as they are flexed during a re-installation. <S> The new hoses will be nice and flexible and so will not have the same risk of failure. <S> The last thing you want to see happen is that the hose bursts and creates a major flood in your laundry area. <S> This is one of the reasons that you will read some recommendations to inspect and replace the hoses on a periodic basis such every two to five years. <S> Another thing that is done is to equip the hose connection points with ball valves that can be easily shut off when the washer is not in use. <S> This removes a lot of the risk of leaving high pressure water connected to what tend to be fairly light duty hoses. <A> There's no law saying that you have to buy new hoses, but really: the cost of a flood dwarfs the cost of new hoses. <S> It's just common sense. <S> (My local big box will sell you nice braided steel hoses for 20 bucks a pair.)
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Old hoses can of course provide the needed functionality.
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Are wire splices actually fire hazards? I'm redoing wiring during a remodel and am reading about burying boxes behind drywall, and how it's a fire hazard and not up to code etc. My question -Are wire splices actually a fire hazard in and of themselves? A lot of responses regarding why to not bury a junction box include that it's a fire hazard. Is it really though? Lots of light fixture, switch boxes, and outlets have the same type of splices with wirenuts going on, but I don't hear these being referred to as hazards? I understand burying the box is bad (had this discussion in a different thread), but I want to know specifically if burying a junction box with wire splices is a fire hazard and why? Is it just that if something did go wrong, you wouldn't have visibility to see that it was going wrong, vs a box that you can see? <Q> EDIT: <S> Consider this answer to another question that was asked today: https://diy.stackexchange.com/a/86019/24137 <S> One answer referenced old knob and tube wiring being spliced inside walls and never showing a scorch mark in 100 years of use. <S> I'll buy that, because the connections were very solid, professional connections. <S> But also consider that k&t splices are soldered together in addition to being crimped and/or twisted together. <S> Also, it's possible that somebody will pull on one end of the cable or the other from a box, and a wirenut connection is more likely to fail than an intact run of wire is in that situation. <S> Compared to soldered connections, wire nuts are straight pressure connectors and it's far more likely that a wire nut connection will become loose and overheat or start sparking than it is for a soldered connection to do so. <S> Also, what if somebody does something like connecting a copper and an aluminum wire with a wire nut? <S> Even the purple wire nuts specifically designed for making those bimetallic connections have a notoriously high failure rate (there are clamp-type connections that are better). <S> Copper and aluminum expand and contract at different rates as the temperature changes, and this can really loosen the connection. <S> Additionally, bimetallic connections like that are subject to greater levels of corrosion, and aluminum oxide is an insulator. <S> Forcing current through an insulator generates a lot of heat (fire hazard). <S> If that kind of failure happens inside a junction box, you'll smell it and be able to find and access it much more easily than if it was sealed up inside the wall. <S> Additionally, the electrical box itself has some nominal fire resistance and code says the box has to extend far enough out to the surface of the wall so that no flammable materials are exposed around the edges of the box. <S> There are more reasons than these, of course. <S> So it actually is a fire safety issue, as most of the electrical code is. <A> It's because it makes it inaccessible for future work. <S> This is a violation of the National Electrical Code and probably any other code around the world. <S> If the joints are a fire hazard they weren't made properly. <S> Good luck! <A> You answered it quite well at the end there & that's the law's reasoning as well. <S> But "fire hazard" no, not in the slightest! <S> That's all just fairytale nonsense! <S> Anyone who says otherwise, needs to explain how fire isn't jumping out of every light, outlet & switch box in every building in the world. <S> ONLY IF that were happening would concealment be a "fire hazard". <S> A "solid" splice is no threat to anything. <S> But yes, a poor & loose splice can arc & create some very localized self-damage. <S> Of course, not always & there are plenty of fires very falsely "attributed to bad wiring". <S> Typically, these are ultimately determined to have been caused by mishandled or defective appliance as well as failed circuit breakers. <S> Usually, if the circuit breaker doesn't trip the fighting wires melt away from each other in just a few arc's, the event's are not the TV & Movie stuff. <S> ALL of those were places where Window AC's, Space Heaters, Big Vacuums, Hair Dryers & Microwaves were used regularly, for decades . <S> The system wasn't designed for any of it & they all handled the outright abuse for decades like real champs. <S> No melted splices, no burnt off insulation, no fuse box damage & no wires melted apart.
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It's a fire hazard because there are a lot of variables and the code (and remember that the code is the law) errs on the side of safety. I've had 3 places of 90-years old with Knob & Tube wiring & their bevy of low-temperature soldered concealed splices & split circuits & not a single scorch mark, overheating melt nor any defect, failure or threat in the slightest. Those soldered connections also protect the conductors within the splice itself from corrosion since oxygen is sealed out (both copper and aluminum wire oxidizes), and from movement. The reason you can't bury a j-box is not because the splices are a fire hazard. As wire changes temperature, it expands and contracts and this can loosen connections. It also violates the law of common sense.
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How to get rid of these bugs? We have newly got these bugs at home and want to get rid of them. They are about 1 cm long. They live under a laminated "floating" floor and they are only active at night - they run around our washroom and one can easily step on them... Is there a way how to get rid of these without removing the floor? <Q> That's a silverfish . <S> They're harmless to people and they won't do any structural damage to your home, but they do like to eat starch, cellulose, carbs; they'll do damage to wallpaper, book bindings, clothing, that kind of stuff. <S> They like to eat mold and fungi too, and they tend to live in dark, moist / damp places. <S> Large infestations usually require an exterminator (if you find them problematic). <S> But for small ones there are various things you can try first. <S> This article on WikiHow has a number of suggestions, too many to reproduce here. <S> Here is another decent article , although it's fairly clear that the author really despises these bugs. <A> They don't bite, but there is anecdotal commentary related to the spread of germs. <S> Boric acid powder, used as directed, will help reduce their population. <A> I agree - that is a silvefish.
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Boric acid powder puffed into the nooks and crannies of the area is a safe (if slightly slow) way to get rid of them. As with any pest if you search around on the internet you can find a zillion suggestions for getting rid of them, some more successful than others. That looks like a silverfish, one of the most ancient pests to perturb humans.
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Can a doorbell transformer sit loose inside main panel? Can a low voltage transformer for a doorbell sit loose (not screwed to anything) inside the main panel or does it have to be affixed somehow? It came with holes but I'd need to drill holes in the panel to attach it, unless I can just wire it and sit it on the bottom of the panel. <Q> You won't want to install the transformer inside the panel. <S> Instead you'll install it on the panel. <S> Remove the retaining nut from the threaded fitting on the other side of the transformer (the bit in your hand). <S> Feed the wires and threaded fitting through an appropriately sized knockout in the panel. <S> Thread the wires through the retaining nut, and tighten the nut down on the threaded fitting. <S> Connect the primary wires from the transformer to the proper terminals in the panel. <S> Connect the low voltage wires to the terminals on the secondary side of the transformer. <A> There are available bell transformers that come already mounted on a electrical box cover. <S> The transformer is on the outside with the low voltage leads exposed. <S> The transformer primary leads project down through the plate so that they end up inside a box where then can be safely attached to the mains wiring. <S> So unless that transformer already has a threaded mount for an electrical box knockout <S> then you should set that transformer aside and get one of these: <A> No. <S> The NEC requires a distinct separation of low voltage wiring and high voltage wiring, so you cannot have any part of the low voltage wires or the transformer itself inside the electrical panel. <S> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> 725.136(A <S> ) General. <S> Cables and conductors of Class 2 and Class 3 circuits shall not be placed in any cable, cable tray, compartment, enclosure, manhole, outlet box, device box, raceway, or similar fitting with conductors of electric light, power, Class 1, non-power-limited fire alarm circuits, and medium power network-powered broadband communications circuits unless permitted by 725.136(B) through (I). <S> If it's a proper doorbell transformer, then it will include safety features internally to protect it from overcurrent and overheat conditions, and it will include a fitting on the primary (household voltage) side that allows it to be properly installed into a knockout on an AC electrical box. <S> It is permitted to use a knockout on the electrical panel itself for this purpose, as long as the transformer and all low voltage wiring are outside the electrical box or panel. <A> I think it shouldn't be inside the main panel at all. <S> And it shouldn't be rattling around loose anywhere. <S> See also this related question for advice on connecting it. <A> NEC says no. <S> Going beyond this requires some common sense. <S> Question: <S> Your circuit breaker panel is flush mounted with the sheet rock <S> then what? <S> Answer: Do not bury the transformer behind sheetrock. <S> Use a Junction box and ensure to mount it in a location which provides access , yes it will fail. <S> Annotate on circuit breaker panel its location. <S> Electrician for 30 <S> + <S> years says some idiot will try to connect the low voltage 12/24 to the high 120/240
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For safety's sake you should mount the bell transformer in a manner that the low voltage wiring does not come into the same enclosure as the mains wiring. At least bolt it to the outside of the panel.
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How do I use a multimeter to determine why one of my lights is not turning on? In my Bathroom, the light switch is located on the left hand wall. The duplex outlet is on the forward wall. On each side of The forward wall (left & right) are the fixtures, one each. When I flip the light switch to on, only the left hand side light fixture turns on. I've tried new bulbs, even took the front of the fixture off and all looks well. I have a digital multimeter and tools. How do I properly diagnose and fix this issue? <Q> From your description, it appears that you have 1 switch that controls one duplex outlet and 2 lights that are plugged into those outlet receptacles. <S> If my interpretation is correct, then do the following: Reverse the light plugs at the outlet receptacles & test to see if the lights illuminate. <S> If only the left light illuminates, then both of your outlet receptacles are working properly & the fault is in the right plug/wiring/fixture/etc. <S> If the left light does not illuminate & the right light does illuminate, then one of your outlet receptacles is bad. <S> If neither light illuminates, then you probably have multiple problems to troubleshoot. <S> Assuming you are in the US: <S> Use this video procedure to properly test your outlet power. <S> Note: <S> If your multimeter is not auto-ranging, then you would manually set your multimeter to AC mode & your voltage scale to 200V before testing your 120V outlets. <S> Click here to see a video of generally how to do this. <S> You are essentially searching for an open circuit. <S> That means electric power cannot pass through the plug or wiring or contacts or bulb filament or through some other part of the light circuit. <S> In your situation, the most common fix actions are: replace a bulb, clean corrosion off a metal contact point/s or switch, and/or fix a loose/disconnected/broken wire. <S> If you have florescent lights, then you may need to replace a starter (condenser) or a ballast. <S> hth, best regards! <A> First , use your multimeter in voltage mode to see if power is even getting to the right-hand lamp. <S> This tells you if the problem is in the fixture or the wiring. <S> If you see no voltage between the lamp hot and neutral, check the hot side and the neutral side independently. <S> If your duplex outlet is working then you can insert one of your meter probes into its wide slot (not the round ground hole) for a neutral node reference. <S> Voltage between the lamp hot and an independent neutral means the lamp neutral supply is broken somewhere. <S> No voltage means the lamp hot supply is broken. <S> Remove the covers from all four junction boxes and tighten every connection you can find. <S> If the fault is a loose connection, the most likely location is at the other end of the cable to the right-hand lamp. <S> This is probably at the outlet or at the left-hand lamp. <S> If that doesn't work then you must "trace the electrical fault": With the power on, very carefully use your multimeter to trace the voltage from one connection to the next. <S> You need to figure out where power comes into the room. <S> The outlet box is the more likely candidate. <S> If you're still stuck, which is highly unlikely, you have to take it apart to fix it: <S> Turn off the power at the circuit breaker. <S> Thoroughly document every connection. <S> Put tags on the wires if necessary. <S> Disconnect everything. <S> Carefully rebuild the circuit one cable at a time, <S> Use your multimeter to trace the power through each connection as you make it. <S> By "carefully" I mean you have to turn off the power to make each connection, then turn on the power to test it. <A> Turn the power off and take a tiny flathead screw driver. <S> Pry the center prong in the socket <S> so it is not flat, nor vertical, but close to an angle. <S> Oftentimes the power is good but the center tab in the socket is jammed flat and cannot make contact with the bulb. <S> If that is not the problem then Ohm out each wire starting at the socket, to the fixture, to the box, to the other light, and so on and so on. <S> The setting on the digital multimeter is the audible Ohm setting. <S> Basically Ohms test for continuity and resistance. <S> We want continuity in this case which indicates a non-break in the wire. <S> So for example, to test continuity on the neutral you would test both neutrals in the working light to the one neutral in the non-working light. <S> And the same for the black wires. <S> Also, the center tab in the socket ( the hot ) should be tested for continuity to the fixture wires, as well as the outer threaded portion of the socket ( the neutral ).
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To test an incandescent bulb or the wiring to your light fixture, you would first disconnect power to your light & then use the Ohms mode of your multimeter. If it's the wiring then jiggle and tighten everything: Turn off the power at the circuit breaker. Unfortunately you have to simultaneously learn how the circuit is supposed to work, and where the fault is. Don't assume it's at the switch.
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Can I skim coat a painted interior concrete block wall? If so, with what & how? Can I skim coat a painted interior concrete block wall? If so: What can I use to prepare the wall? What material should I use (joint compound, plaster, other)? All DIY so simpler the better. <Q> Is the wall dry? <S> is the paint in good condition? <S> If it is dry you could use joint compound. <S> If the paint is pealing it would need to be scraped first. <S> I like using mortar on block walls because it holds up to moisture better than joint compound but have not used on painted block. <S> Some don't like mortar because the sand is very rough even after painting. <A> Why not simply glue 1/4 inch drywall to the block and just compound the joints? <S> A few concrete screws can be used to hold the drywall in place until the glue dries, or just use a few 2x4s horizontally across the middle with an angled brace to the floor until the glue sets. <A> Just wrap a layer of 48" fiberglass stucco mesh (I would use 2 ounce mesh) across the whole face and mud away. <S> It goes pretty quick and it will be good and strong so it doesn't crack over time. <A> You'll spend a fraction of the time and have a much better resulting look than trying to skim coat the entire wall and hoping for good adhesion. <S> If this is a basement with the potential for moisture, then make sure to use materials that will not mold (they make special paperless drywall for that).
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The simplest solution to get a smooth wall is to attach furring strips to the concrete and then drywall to that.
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Toilet valve flushing by itself Every so often, the valve lets the water run. To check the flapper, I shut the water off overnight. The water in the tank didn't go down so it may not be the flapper. What else could it be? <Q> Some can be fixed by turning the water off, then removing the top of the fill valve and slightly turning the water on Put a cup over the top <S> so when it turns on you don't soak your bathroom. <S> Push down on the float let the water run for a few seconds. <S> turn water off and reassemble the valve. <S> wait and see if that did the trick. <S> Usually there will be rust and sediment in the bottom of the tank if it blows out a lot of debris. <S> I like to clean this out with a wet vac so it wont leave rust stains in the bowl. <S> The valves are inexpensive and not hard for a DIY person to change at worst case. <A> Your fill valve may be set too high. <S> Depending on the type of float <S> it has it is allowing to much water in the reservoir and the water is being diverted through the over-flow tube. <S> Sometimes it is difficult to see the flow of water from the tank to the bowl and if it is a very slow leak it might not be perceptible at all. <S> A fast and accurate check for leaks is to shut the supply valve off and add some food coloring to the reservoir. <S> If the bowl is colored your flapper or its' seat need attention. <A> If it's not the flapper, another common problem is siphoning. <S> Check to ensure the bowl filler tube (the hose that comes off the top of the fill valve and sprays down the overflow tube) is not placed in the overflow tube where the end of it is below tank water level.
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Small rocks and scale can cause the fill valve to leak allowing more water in.
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Can a drywall ceiling support hanging a 20kg chandelier I want to know if a drywall ceiling support hanging a 20kg chandelier <Q> No, not with just the drywall. <S> Fasten a bracket to the ceiling joists with some good lag bolts for that much weight. <S> The problem isn't today but 5 or 10 years from now. <S> Will the light eventually weaken the drywall enough to break it? <S> Why take that chance with you and your family? <S> Good luck! <A> I know ceiling fans require a special box for that much weight. <S> I would at a minimum add a cross brace to attach the box to similar to a ceiling fan for such a heavy fixture. <S> sheetrock will not carry this much weight with a standard fixture box. <A> NO! <S> There are several types of toggle bolts that have some degree of tension strength. <S> For example, according to this chart from one of the toggle bolt manufacturers, a single toggle bolt can hold up to 50 lbs under a tension load. <S> Hilti Inc. <S> However, as @WolfHarper points out in a comment, those Togglers are rated for clearspan. <S> In mounting a ceiling fixture, they'd be bolting near the edge of a big hole made for the junction box. <S> This drastically reduces the strength of the drywall (and consequently the toggles in the drywall) <S> Further, how is the drywall attached to the joists? <S> The drywall may begin to deteriorate or pull away from the joists, especially if it is nailed instead of screwed. <S> ALMOST <S> NO EXPERIENCED DIYER <S> OR PROFESSIONAL <S> WOULD RECOMMEND THAT YOU DO THAT! <S> AND VIRTUALLY EVERY ELECTRICAL INSPECTOR WOULD REJECT SUCH AN APPROACH! <S> The risk is huge. <S> A falling ceiling fixture can be fatal. <S> Ceilings are prone to flexing and shaking from traffic on the floor above, Drywall can be fragile stuff, easily compromised around mounting holes. <S> There is a fairly easy safe solution, a fan brace <S> These are retrofit devices. <S> A hole the size of the junction box is cut into the ceiling drywall. <S> The brace, which detaches from the box for mounting, is inserted into the hole and then expanded until it grips two of the framing members (joists) in the ceiling. <S> The box is then remounted on the brace. <S> These are designed to support fixtures up to 150 lbs. <S> and fans up to 70 lbs. <S> Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources.
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Ceiling mounted drywall alone cannot support any significant weight.
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What affects air quality indoors after home improvement? We installed a new A/C in the corner room of our house a little while back, because we wanted to use it as a nursery. Installation went fine and the little one sleeps in there every night. A few months later we decided to get a baby cam, which happens to have an air quality monitor build in. I noticed strange things happening to the air quality in the room, which reaches concerning levels at times, hence my question: What affects air quality indoors after home improvement? Could the A/C unit itself blow in bad air?Could the carpet or the ceiling cause bad air quality?Could furniture (mattress / sofa / closet / drawer) cause bad air quality? Now, I am obviously aware that keeping the windows closed and consuming air should gradually worsen the air quality, but what has been happening the last nights is more weird than that - the air quality suddenly goes from pretty good to bad in a matter of a few minutes. Now it could be a problem with the sensor, of course, but I did confirm with a secondary sensor, who gave similar results. So, any idea what could cause sudden bursts of pollution into the air?Is that an indication of mold or would you expect an A/C to be able to actually worsen the air quality (I generally thought it would improve it)? <Q> "Air quality" is an ambiguous phrase. <S> This baby monitor that you bought <S> , on what basis does it determine the air quality in the room? <S> Carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, radon, particulates, pollen, VOCs, smoke? <S> There are literally thousands of things that can affect air quality. <S> I don't think I would get too worried about a baby monitor, that doubles as an air quality sensor, giving you an overall poor reading without knowing why it is showing a poor reading. <S> Open the room (and your house) once a week and get fresh air into the room. <S> That would give you a better idea how to remedy poor air quality. <S> Good luck! <A> I'm presuming "installed AC in just that room" means a Window or Wall AC unit or a Mitsubishi split type blower module was installed. <S> I'd suspect it's the cooling unit itself (plastic, rubber, glue, spray foam or caulk) & the VOC's spread only when it blows. <S> no nothing to see if you get the same or no air change. <S> If nothing, then run just the fan to see if that changes anything. <S> If nothing, then run the AC's cooling a change might indicate a refrigerant leak & should be repaired. <S> Now, if you get changes without the AC running at all, then it definitely could be the unit's construction materials. <S> Or, anything else in the room ... <S> insulation, weather-stripping, waterproofing materials, room paint, carpet, carpet padding, furniture, toys, window treatments. <S> If this is a wall or Window unit that you can swap out with another in the house. <S> Then, try the swap & see if that not only cleans that room, but also that the problem went with the AC unit into its new room. <A> VOC's according to a 50 cent sensor... <S> Which won't directly map to the government's definition, nor to actual human toxicity. <S> There will be a lot of overlap with things like... Baby flatulence. <S> Seriously. <S> We have a VOC sensing air filter, and, well, flatulence makes it kick up to high. <S> Yes, consumer products, new furniture, new carpet, new paint do off-gas VOCs for a few months. <S> That's precisely what "new car smell" is. <S> However they generally don't spike, unless they transition into direct sunlight. <S> And the majority of humans are not sensitive to them, but I have known humans who are.
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A few things you can try with your monitor is to not run the AC, no fan Additionally, VOC's may only release at certain temperatures or as the room's air cools or heats, they would rise or fall toward or away from the monitor. If you are really concerned get a better piece of equipment to monitor your air quality that shows specifics about the content of the air.
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