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How to get rid of new carpet removed from a new house I live in Sugar Land, Texas within city of Houston. I ripped off the newly installed carpet from a new house to install wood floor. What are the best way to get rid off the carpet and pad in my garage? <Q> If it is still in an okay state, you can try and sell it for a small price on your local classified ad site. <S> Some contractors may look for that kind of stuff, or some other DIYers may use it to finish a small area. <A> Start by contacting your local waste management provider, either by phone or on the web. <S> They will be able to tell you if they'll take it, and how you need to prepare it. <S> If they don't take it, they should be able to direct you to a local company who will. <S> Every area is different. <S> The best way to get a straight answer, is to go right to the source. <S> According to Sugar Land, TX Garbage & Recycling Guidelines Carpeting <S> Residents can set carpeting out during their bulky item collection. <S> Carpeting must be cut in 4 foot strips for pickup, and can not weigh over 50 pounds. <S> You may be able to dispose of this item at a local landfill for a fee. <S> Source Bulky Waste <S> Bulky waste service is provided once a month for items too large to fit in the garbage cart. <S> Bulky waste does not include construction, demolition or hazardous wastes. <S> Guidelines <S> Set your bulky items out by 7 a.m. on your collection day <S> but no earlier than 6 p.m. the evening before. <S> -Do not place items in your garbage cart for bulky waste collection. <S> Items should be placed directly on the curb. <S> Source <S> This service is subject to the following fees which must be paid prior to scheduling the service. <S> Fees <S> Greater than 5 cubic yards - Call for pricing <A> You can cut it up into narrow strips to roll up & put out with the regular trash to get rid of it quite slowly...please don't kill the trash guys with a mountain of trash. <S> Or, call Habitat For Humanity, <S> Salvation Army, Goodwill or whatever's in your area. <S> Some of those are looking for nice new carpet & will gladly remove it. <S> Bravo on getting that filth out of the house. <S> Carpet was the worst idea ever. <A> If it's indeed new, roll the larger sections neatly and place it on the curb. <S> There's a good chance it'll be gone in a day. <S> Plenty of folks are looking for basement floor rugs, etc. <S> For any smaller scraps left behind, Shimon Rura's answer is good. <A> If it's still in new condition, have you contacted your local Habitat for Humanity or other building material recycler? <S> They might be interested in it <S> and you can get a tax write off. <S> Otherwise, you might be able to sell it or give it away on Craigslist. <S> The last resort would be disposing of it <A> Contact a private waste disposal company. <S> You can find them easily by looking for dumpster providers. <S> If you don't need a dumpster, though, many will also accept waste drop-offs or pick up loads from your home. <S> Your city's waste department may have a list of recommended private haulers as well. <S> Update <S> : Looks like the Sugarland <S> , TX Garbage & Recycling Guidelines suggest you contact a company called Republic Services for disposal options. <A> A friend of mine once said, "I haven't found anything so useless that it won't disappear in a day after listing it for free on craigslist." <S> Now, years later, I never have either :)
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Your municipal trash collection service probably doesn't allow construction waste, but private companies exist that offer a range of waste collection services. Bulky items should be set out at the curb at least four feet from other objects. Another option is to have the carpet installer dispose of your old carpet. On-Call Bulky Waste Service Residents who do not wish to hold bulky items until their next bulky waste day can contact Republic Services Customer Service at 713-726-7307 to schedule an additional pickup. If you don't want to wait for regular collection, you can call to schedule a pickup. Less than 5 cubic yards - $75 You'll be doing someone a favor and preserving the planet in the process. (Carpet is a messy, energy-intensive product.)
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How to switch a single pole light to I have 8 recessed can lights in the ceiling of my finished basement. The lights are operated by one pole switch w/dimmer. Is there any way to separate the can light in order to turn on one row at a time. We found that it is not necessary to have all 8 can lights on at the same time. Is this possible? <Q> The system was designed with a different philosophy: rather than turn 4 lights off, dim all to 50%. <S> Now you want to reinvent that. <S> OK. <S> There are two ways I can think of. <S> One is to rewire the ceiling, which involves a lot of fishing, luck, and/or demolition and reconstruction of the finished ceiling. <S> You may need a bigger switch box to accommodate 2 switches, because I have not seen duplex dimmer switches meant to fit in a 1-gang box. <S> The other way is to use home-automation technology to make each lamp individually addressible. <S> Then use a smart switch for coarse control, or an "app" on a compatible smart device (iPod/iPhone/android) for very precise control (e.g. Lights 2, 7 and 8 on 40%, light 6 on 100%). <S> They don't like us to recommend particular brands or peoducts here since questions tend to be archived for a long time, but you'll find plenty on the market. <S> If you're swinging toward replacing with smart fixtures, think about also making the leap to LED. <S> They are finally market-ready with a good selection in color temp and CRI at a sane price, considering they will outlast the house. <A> Right now, you have 8 lights controlled by one switch. <S> It should be one switch/dimmer for each row. <S> You need a lot of rewiring between the lights to the switch location. <S> If you have already had wires pre-roughed in the ceiling to the switch location, it will be straight forward if you only need to rewiring the switch and lights. <S> Otherwise, you need to open the ceiling and refinish it after all rewiring done. <A> I think the other 2 answers explain your wiring options well. <S> Although, if you want a super simple solution that gets you mostly what you want without rewiring. <S> Then, just remove alternating of undesirable bulbs or, of course, unscrew them enough so they don't light. <S> No dimming to fool around with, no wasted energy & extra bulbs for the rest of the house if you find yourself out of bulbs. <S> The reason for this option is because future owners may desire your single switch for all lights & wouldn't want a 2-switch box's ugliness.
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Depend on how many lights in a row as you mentioned, it definitely needs more switches.
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Is a tank-style water heater always under pressure? Is a tank-style hot water heater always under pressure? In other words, is the entire tank pressurized? Is the pressure largely created by the force of the incoming cold water supply? <Q> Yes, the tank is under pressure from the incoming cold water supply. <S> After all, the incoming cold water is what is pushing hot water out of the tank and into your faucet. <S> However, there are usually two safety valves: Temperature/pressure relief valve that will let the hot water or steam out, if internal pressure or temperature goes over a certain limit. <S> A vacuum breaker valve that will let air in if internal pressure is less than external (air) pressure: prevents the tank from collapsing if there is no cold water coming in and you're pumping hot water out. <A> And this will be equal to municipal supply with the same exceptions. <S> If water is flowing, it gets a lot more complicated. <S> If you shut off main supply to your house, it will remain at that pressure until you crack a valve open and let off the pressure, or leaks have the same effect. <S> A house can hold pressure for months if it's tight. <S> A tight house with a leaky supply valve can repressurize even after you thought you bled off the pressure. <S> It can also fill pipes you are trying to solder LOL. <S> The only exception is if there's a regulator or check valve which prevents equalization. <S> In this case, your tank and household plumbing can actually overpressure above supply, typically because you have a load of cold water in your water heater, and it heats up and thus expands. <S> This has no limit as to pressure, and can burst piping. <S> Since everything is equalized, the safety valve on the water heater protects the whole house's plumbing, as does a vacuum break if you have one. <S> Vacuum is not as dangerous to piping because it cannot be more than 15 psi or 1 atm. <S> You would think hot water heaters would be vulnerable to vacuum, but home biodiesel brewers use them as vacuum dryers. <A> If the main water valve, and any other valves leading to the heater are open, then the pressure inside the tank will be equal to the supply pressure. <S> Once the tank starts heating, however, the pressure will increase. <S> If you have an old system that's never been updated, you'll possibly not have a check valve on the main. <S> If this is the case, the extra pressure will be able to push back into the supply. <S> If there is a check valve, you have a closed system, and there's nowhere for the extra pressure to go. <S> In these situations, an expansion tank is required. <S> The expansion tank will absorb the extra pressure, and reduce stress on the system. <S> However, the expansion tank is not infinitely large, and so can only absorb a limited amount of excess pressure. <S> If the pressure builds beyond what the expansion tank can handle, the excess pressure will begin to build. <S> At some point the temperature and/or pressure in the tank will be greater than the set point of the temperature and pressure (T&P) valve, at which point the valve should open. <S> Once the temperature and pressure drop back down below the set point, the T&P valve should close. <S> Though sometimes once they open, they get stuck open. <S> In this case, the valve will need to be replaced. <A> If your t&p pops off then you have an issue needing addressed. <S> It really shouldn't happen very often, meaning very rarely. <S> If there is an expansion tank <S> then it's bad. <S> The bladder in the tank has ruptured and it needs replaced. <S> Flick the expansion tank with your finger, not hollow, new tank and t&p.
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Yes, the water tank will be equalized to the same pressure as the water in all your house plumbing, unless there are regulators or check valves to interfere with that.
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How can I replace a ceiling fan plus light with just a light? I have a ceiling fan with separate fan speed control and switch on the wall. I would like to replace it with a plain light fixture if it is not too hard to get the wiring into a safe configuration. It is wired to a switch and fan speed control as follows: All these connections are inside the switch box with the fan control and switch, except between cable 2 and the fan. Is it compliant and safe to simply remove the fan control and abandon the black wire in cable 2? This is in the US. The house was built in 1950s, but the wiring in this room appears much newer. There are a few related questions already present. I don't believe any of these cover my case, but I could be wrong. Light to fan Light to fan Fan to light ; but underspecified and no answers Fan to light ; but underspecified and no answers Fan to light ; my wires at the fixture are different <Q> I'd go with just using the wires from the Rocker switch. <S> They should be the same wires that make it up to the ceiling fan box & are hopefully a perfect match to the new light of black, white & copper. <S> All you'd do with the fan speed controller is throw it away & wire nut & tape those wire ends in both boxes. <S> The new wall cover plate would be a 2-Gang Half-Blank to cover over the now abandoned fan speed controller's space. <A> Without more details about the wiring, it's impossible to provide an answer that's exactly accurate to your specific wiring. <S> Turn off power, and verify that it's off before you begin. <S> In general, there will be a grounded (neutral) wire connected to the white wire from the fan/light. <S> This wire will have to be connected to the grounded (neutral) wire from the new light fixture. <S> There will be <S> one or more grounding wires from the new fixture, these will connect to the bare/green grounding conductor coming from the ceiling. <S> Currently the grounding conductor(s) should be attached to the green wire from the fan/light. <S> Finally, there should be two ungrounded (hot) conductors that come from the switches. <S> One will be attached to the black wire coming from the fan/light, while the other will be attached to the blue wire from the fan/light. <S> The wire coming from the fan switch (attached to black wire), can be capped off using a twist-on wire connector, or other approved means. <S> The other wire (attached to blue wire), will be connected to the ungrounded (hot) wire from the new light fixture. <S> Then cover the empty hole with a blank insert, or half blank cover plate. <A> You do not specify what items 1,3, 4 are or if you have a 3 way switch <S> (i.e you have two switches that can control the fan/light) <S> so going on that diagram it is difficult to tell, but it does look like a 3 way switch. <S> Going on that <S> I would do as you desired - disconnect the fan control. <S> I would do it as follows, leaving the black wire but capping it with a wire nut on both ends (inductance will allow a small voltage to be present and to prevent electrical arcing etc. <S> Wire nut it, then tape it.
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If you want to remove the fan control, you'll have to remove/cap any wires that are attached to it.
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Why does my Ring doorbell keep repeating the chime? I installed one of those fancy new Ring doorbells (the video / WiFi connected doodads) and it keeps repeating my doorbell chime. When you press the button to "Ring" me, the doorbell chime rings and the the app initiates a video call to my phone. Until I accept, reject, or let the video call timeout... my doorbell chime keeps repeating (dingDong, [pause], dingDong, [pause], dingDong, [pause], dingDong, [pause]. ... ). This is a huge annoyance if I'm at home and just walk to the door. Until the call times out I have to shout overtop of the "dingDong dingDong dingDong...". I confirmed it works as you would expect it to with an old fashioned button + diode. (e.g. 1 press = 1 dingDong... hold the button down = repeating dingDong). In a nutshell, the Ring is acting like I'm holding the button down. I drew a diagram of the circuit , and as far as I can tell everything is correct. Circuit is: Transformer > Ring > Diode > Ring > Chime > Transformer Transformer is a 16v transformer, chime is for 16v transformers Transformer reads 19.4v without load... but I understand that to be expected after some research on the net I've tried a new transformer, a new chime, and a new diode... all do the same thing. I have the diode wired up so the stripe faces the chime... which the Ring instructions say to do. Any thoughts? I can't be the only idiot in the world who can't figure this out. <Q> OK, this may be a side-effect of the way the Ring powers itself. <S> The Ring is in series with the chime. <S> In series circuits, the same amount of current (amps) flows around the loop through both devices. <S> And by the way, this problem crops up with Nest thermostats and dimmers too. <S> How does the Ring power itself? <S> By deliberately letting a little bit of current flow through the circuit, including through the chime. <S> The Ring (like the Nest and dimmers) is betting that a small enough current won't make the chime (furnace, lamp) activate. <S> And it is guessing at how much current it can get away with. <S> So my guess is: you have a chime which is more efficient than most. <S> Sure, when the visitor rings the bell, the Ring shorts the two wires to simulate a doorbell push, and then it lets go of that correctly. <S> And then, it needs to recharge its internal battery - transmitting video over WiFi <S> is hard work. <S> So it allows current to flow at that lower rate. <S> Unbeknownst to the Ring, that is enough to ring the chime. <S> Now like I say, smart thermostats have the same problem: they charge by sending some current down the W line, hopefully not enough to engage the furnace relay. <S> If that doesn't work, they give you an option to hook up the "C" line to power the thermostat directly. <S> Unfortunately it does not appear the Ring has an option like that. <S> TLDR: Your chime is too efficient for the Ring to vampire-charge itself. <S> Get rid of one. <S> Well, if you're in love with that chime, there might be another option, but it's definitely not UL-approved . <S> You could alter your chime to be less efficient... by putting a resistor of appropriate size in parallel with the chime. <S> Finding the appropriate size would take some measuring or experimentation. <S> You would not want one which gets too hot, worst case someone holds down your doorbell button for a long time. <S> A fellow shouldn't be able to burn your house down by holding the doorbell button. <A> I had the same issue with my door chime when I installed Ring. <S> Customer service first directed me to change the transformer. <S> That didn't make sense because there was no difference in the transformer I have and the ones at the store. <S> So I skipped that step and called Customer Service back. <S> After a long wait while they consulted with someone else, they offered me a free Ring Chime to use so I could disconnect the existing chime permanently. <S> I love my chime but this is the only way it would work <S> so I took off the diode and just use the chime they sent me. <S> It works <S> but I will have to remove the door bell from time to time to charge the battery. <S> I may try adding a resistor so I can have my old door chime back. <A> Ring has corrected this problem. <S> I called and reported the issue (800-656-1918), and they sent me a replacement with a FedEx return shipping label. <S> The replacement works flawlessly, and I suffered no additional expense. <A> https://support.ring.com/hc/en-us/articles/205180710-Connecting-Ring-Doorbell-Directly-to-a-Low-Voltage-Transformer-No-Pre-existing-Doorbell- <S> Harper is correct; You will need a resistor. <S> While the directions above may recommend a 20-50 Watt and 25-33 ohm resistor, that may be overkill if you are going to keep the wired chime in the circuit. <S> Some experimentation or calculation may be required to determine the lowest voltage and current allowed by the wired chime for operation. <S> If you still have issues with the resistor installed, you may want to bypass the chime and go with Ring's Wifi Chime option. <A> I had the same issue with a SkyBell; the electronic chime would keep "chirping" indefinitely after the doorbell button was released. <S> I solved the problem by putting a resistor in parallel with the chime - for the reasons explained above by Harper. <S> I found the correct size resistor empirically - I started with a 1K Ohm resistor (didn't solve the problem), and worked my way down. <S> I ended up using a 470 Ohm resistor, and that solved the problem, but the value isn't critical - I also tried a 330 and 220 Ohm resistor and they both worked too, but I went with the highest value that solved the problem reliably (470) for the permanent fix. <S> I measured 21VAC at the chime when the bell is rung, which is 45mA through 470 Ohms, and just under 1W of power. <S> I used a 2W resistor because I had one handy, but a 1W unit would have worked just as well, especially since the 21VAC is present only briefly <S> when the doorbell is rung.(a 25-33 Ohm resistor, in my case would have been WAY too low, and 20-50W way overkill. <S> Use alligator clip jumpers and start high at 1K Ohm and work down like I did, then it's a simple matter to use Ohm's law to calculate the power.)As a side benefit, the tone of the chime itself sounds better to me now - not harsh like it was before. <A> I’ve found that with some of these issues where the home doorbell rings randomly that sometimes the two wires for the doorbell are actually touching. <S> Use electrical tape to make a repair and put it all back together and this could be one solution to the problem.
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The Ring isn't timing out when it stops; it's just finished charging. Especially with older doorbells the rubber insulation around the two wires dries out and cracks and allows the two to interact, causing intermittent/random ringing.
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Why is my toilet not flushing completely? I have reviewed the other questions here related to this. I'm pretty sure it's not clogged because it doesn't back up and usually only takes 2 flushes to get everything down. Usually it seems to be paper that's left after the first flush, which seems odd. The water does swirl, but it does seem to be kind of a weak swirl, for lack of a better term. The water and paper just doesn't go all the way down. Here's what I've tried already: used a plunger used a snake/auger, going down from the toilet used a snake/auger, from the roof, going down the vent; it was maybe 15 feet long; it came back wet but clean held down the handle to make sure the entire contents of the tank is emptied; this didn't have any effect, it still didn't flush completely; although I did notice that when I didn't hold it down, it did seem like the flapper closed early, so I should probably try a new flapper took out the 'filler' in the tank; there is a large plastic spacer thing in the tank which I assume is there to take up volume and save water; I removed this so that the tank was completely full; still no change we have hard water, but we've had a water softener for the last 12 or so years we'e been in the house (out of 15); so I'd think any mineral deposits wouldn't be there, or at least wouldn't suddenly appear; I haven't done the CLR scrum around the rim jets yet I tried pouring in a couple gallons of water from a bucket to see if it goes down, which it started to and then stopped; I don't know what this may indicate This is in an upstairs bathroom. I don't hear any gurgling out of the sink or bath when I flush. This is the original toilet, or at least since we moved in 15 years ago; the house was built around 1988. I have replaced the flush valve or whatever you call the main mechanism inside the tank a few or several years ago. It has been doing this for a few months now (yea I'm slow getting to it); I mean it's basically functional with a 2nd flush, just kind of gross. EDIT: I finally pulled the toilet, after trying everything else (except CLR); I tried to snake/auger it from the bottom and didn't find anything there either; I couldn't get the snake all the way thru, but I feel like this is more due to the sharp bend; it just completely stopped; everyone will probably say this obviously means you have a clog, but it felt like it just wasn't turning, rather than hitting any obstruction. It's an older auger from my father; kind of spools out of a funnel shaped metal container, rather than the closet augers I've seen in related youtube videos So now what? Might be easier at this point to just replace it, since I didn't change anything after pulling it, and I'm afraid if I put the old one back on I'll have the same probably since nothing changed <Q> What you might try is getting a new flapper since it is closing too soon anyway, also get the filling mechanism/float which will rush water into the tank quicker.. <S> they sell both items in a kit..and make sure the water level is high enough in the tank. <S> You can even adjust the float a little higher. <S> That will give the water more force from the added weight. <S> It sounds like all you need <S> is a little extra push to get a complete flush. <A> The next step would be to remove the toilet and inspect the pipe visually. <S> There could possibly be a blockage in the pipe that was missed. <S> To remove the toilet, you first need to shut off the water supply, and then drain out all of the water. <S> There are usually 2 plastic caps on either side which cover the nuts that hold your toilet down to the closet flange. <S> After removing the nuts, carefully rock it back and forth to break the wax seal. <S> After that, it should just lift off. <S> You should have a large plastic bag on hand to set the toilet on <S> so it doesn't make a mess everywhere. <S> With the toilet removed, run the auger down the drain and verify that there isn't a blockage. <S> Do the same on the toilet. <S> Your house was built in 1988, which was before most states adopted low flow toilet standards. <S> Your toilet is probably using at least 2-3 times as much water per flush than a modern one. <S> To install the new toilet, you would just want to reverse the steps to install the new one. <S> Just make sure that you don't forget the wax seal. <S> Most toilets are fairly standard, but there are specialty ones made for certain situations. <S> measure the backspacing to make sure a replacement will fit. <S> The standard backspacing is 12". <S> To find the backspacing of your current setup, measure from the center of the bolt in the closet flange to the wall. <S> If your spacing is different than that, then you may need to special order one. <S> There also is a big selection of toilets. <S> It is worth your money to buy a premium one because the flush components are usually better quality than the typical contractor grade toilet is. <S> There are also ratings on the amount of flush power they have. <S> Generally, the higher end toilets will flush better as well. <A> "I'm pretty sure it's not clogged" <S> Why are you so sure? <S> I pulled a toilet with your exact complaint and found a solid object wedged in the toilet trap (child's toy). <S> I also pulled one under the same circumstances that had a buildup of unsavory material partially occluding the trap path. <S> I also pulled one that had gravel (from an aquarium or fishbowl) "trapped" in the trap. <S> In each case I used a closet auger first, unsuccessfully.
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If you can't find any problems, then it is time to replace the toilet itself.
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Outlet inside a wall behind TV I purchased a TV for our bathroom remodel that is to be flush mounted in the wall - my question is can I install an outlet inside the wall to power the unit. It would be accessible if I lift the tv (it is gravity seated - no bolts - just lift it up to pull tv off wall). So since code is that it must be accessible without demolition - would this be within code? Here is a picture of what it looks like installed and a link to the install instructions which are vague at best. [Watervue TV install][3] <Q> Should be no problem, as long as the box and everything else is installed according to code. <S> Since it's in the bathroom, GFCI protection is required. <A> The National Electrical Code requires that it be accessible. <S> The definition of accessible is: <S> Accessible <S> (as applied to wiring methods). <S> Capable of being removed or exposed without damaging the building structure or finish or not permanently closed in by the structure or finish of the building. <S> Good luck! <A> You can get recessed receptacles for behind TVs. <S> Arlington TV receptacle with low-voltage plate Keep in mind <S> , photos like you show have little regard for reality. <S> They will put their products in the best light, regardless if it is actually possible or not. <S> As Tester says, this will need to be GFI protected, and the GFI must remain readily accessible. <S> You'll need to put a GFI somewhere else in the room, or use a blank-face GFI somewhere, or GFI protect the whole circuit at the breaker.
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As Tester said the receptacle needs to be protected by GFCI. By this definition your installation would be acceptable. This means it cannot be behind the TV.
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Creating my own coffered ceilings, whats the best material to use for the frame? SO I am creating my own coffered ceilings by creating a grid which I will attach to the ceiling. Then I will nail/glue crown moldings onto this grid to create my coffered ceilings. Now I've made a mockup of my grid for testing purposes using MDF and it all seems nice and stable. Ive never done anything like this before so Im wondering if Im making a horrible mistake and these ceilings will begin to breakdown having used MDF, or if I should use something else? I chose MDF because it seems relativly light in weight which seemed like a good idea since I am nailing these up to the ceiling Thank you! <Q> I would think MDF would hold up fine in a dry climate controlled space. <S> The length of the pieces and method of attachment to the ceiling will affect long-term tendency to sag. <S> I would try to keep the frame lengths relatively short and employ a robust attachment method (nails into joists along with construction adhesive?) <A> I agree with Jimmy Fix-it. <S> But, are you asking about the framing or the finishing or both. <S> For framing, I'd go with Fir studs over the cheapest Pine studs. <S> Fir is harder, denser, stiffer & usually straighter or a much higher percentage is straighter. <S> For Finishing, I'd go with the MDF glued & screwed, don't nail anything anymore. <S> There are Finish Screws & they're wonderful. <S> However, 1/4" smooth plywood is great & 1/2" Furniture or Project Grade plywood is fantastic too. <S> The possible winning benefit of these smooth plywood's is that they can be stained, if desired. <S> You're on the right track though to stay away from plank wood in order to avoid expansion & contraction gap issues. <S> Although, if you're interested in not having any joints for long runs, then wood planks are the only way to go for anything over 8' long...in stock that is. <S> Or, it might just be the Lowe's & Home Depot around me who sell 16' MDF planks online, but don't stock it in the store. <A> I recommend steel studs for this type of framing work: <S> Steel studs are light weight which makes them great for working overhead. <S> As an added bonus: You only need a pair of tin snips to quickly cut steel studs to length. <S> Though, you can also get an appropriate blade for a miter or table saw if you prefer.
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Steel studs are typically less expensive than high quality wood studs. Steel studs are straight and dimensionally stable and will not expand, contract, or warp like wood.
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How grout entire floor without disturbing the grout? It's my first time grouting a floor (5x9' bathroom). The tiles are 2" hex. I figured I would only be able to do half the floor at a time to avoid disturbing the grout when it's soft. Is this true, or is there a good way to do the whole thing at once? <Q> You need to start at the furthest corner from your exit path and work your way out. <S> Grout the entire floor at the same time or you may see color differences where you stopped then started again. <S> Mix all the grout as a single batch <S> (that is a fairly small area, it should not be too difficult). <S> Use your grout float to remove as much excess as possible as you work . <S> I keep several buckets of water and several sponges and do a quick damp "dirty" sponge to the grouted areas as I work. <S> You can use a spray bottle to give a slight misting to completed areas if you are concerned that you cannot work quickly enough. <S> Cover unused grout in the bucket with plastic wrap, you can use this to repair any grout lines accidentally disturbed during the next steps. <S> When complete, let it set for 15/30 minutes then proceed with your sponging. <S> It is important that you keep a "dirty" sponge and bucket (initial wipe), and a "clean" sponge and bucket ("clean" wipe). <S> Wring out and rinse sponges after each wipe, and change water frequently. <S> Let it set overnight, then do a "haze sponging". <A> Simply work on a scrap of plywood, which will keep you above grout level. <S> Grout is nearly always slightly recessed. <S> Most installers simply keep their shoes flat on the tile, which accomplishes the same. <A> Mix all your grout together while its dry and mix thoroughly. <S> This way all the grout will be the same color, then you can add your water and the correct amount of grout needed. <S> Simply grout the entire floor and allow to dry 20 minutes and then start your sponge and wiping processes. <S> I would highly suggest applying a solvent clear sealer over the grout.
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Mix a small amount of vinegar (or muriatic acid) with clean water in a bucket and sponge the entire floor to remove remaining grout "haze".
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What's the best way to remove a wrought iron fence? I have a simple wrought iron fence that I would like to remove. It has posts in concrete with the panels welded to them. I was just going to cut the horizontal bars from the posts and then pull out the posts. Is this the best way to remove the fence? What tools do I need to cut and dig most efficiently and effectively? <Q> Use a reciprocating saw with a high quality metal cutting blade to remove the horizontal bars. <S> Do not cut the posts as these can be used for leverage to rock the buried ball of concrete, loosening it up and making it easier to get out of the ground. <S> You will need work gloves, safety glasses, a round point shovel (D-handle version shown), a pinch bar or digging bar, and some elbow grease and beer. <A> I wouldn't cut anything off of or at the posts. <S> Yes, cut the sections free from each other (if desired, see last paragraph), but leave the horizontals or at least 6" inches of them on the posts (the more the better). <S> The reason for this is that you can likely just pull everything out of the ground by the fence itself. <S> Using a double 2x4 on a board a couple of feet from the fence can typically make you Superman & pop that post & it's concrete right out. <S> You'd increase your yard board's thickness or height as the post comes up to maintain your optimal leverage. <S> Otherwise, I prefer a see-saw type of setup where I just use my body weight. <S> You'd start with a cinder block or stack of wood a foot or 2 away from the post which is about the same height as a horizontal & just pull down & push down the double 2x4 to pop out the whole fence assembly. <S> You'd increase the height of your fulcrum as or if needed until the post is out & free. <S> You don't even need to cut anything & can just work your way up & down the entire length of the fence incrementally... <S> if you could actually use the fence somewhere else. <A> step 1: read instructions: https://ia800309.us.archive.org/15/items/milmanual-fm-5-250-explosives-and-demolitions-1992/fm_5-250_explosives_and_demolitions_1992.pdf <S> step 2: <S> have fun!
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If you or a neighbor don't have one, you could use a regular hacksaw and save $$.
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Older rental home with fake wood look floor- dull, how to shine/polish? We moved into a rented house last summer, it has "fake wood" floors - not sure of the brand or type, but the place was built about 20 years ago. We have 3 big dogs, and between their paws and other traffic, the floor just always looks dull. Some areas appear to have been damaged by water/flooding under past tenants. I have tried the vinegar in water, rubbing alcohol, etc. remedies and it still looks dull and filmed. Since it IS a rented house, I do not want to do anything that will either make the floor worse, nor do I have any intention of removing and replacing. I have read that you can't use products like "Mop'n'Glo" or "Future" on these, so what options do I have? <Q> Use a liquid wax removing floor cleaner rinse the floor completely clean with a mop <S> apply traditional liquid floor wax with an applicator or soft clean string mop <S> This is how commercial floors in department stores look so nice and shiny. <S> The drawback is that this has to be repeated every so often depending on traffic and abuse. <A> The top layer of a no-wax floor is applied in the factory, and is designed to last a specific period of time before it breaks down and wears out. <S> After that happens, the inner layers of the flooring become exposed, and this is what gives the floor a dull appearance. <S> The flooring is around 20 years old, which is near the end of the expected lifetime of this kind of product. <S> You should avoid using harsh chemicals on it such as ammonia, bleach, vinegar, or alcohol. <S> Harsh chemicals may damage the floor more, and give it an even duller appearance. <S> However, there are specific products on the market which in theory are supposed to restore the shine. <S> I do not have any experience using them, but they could work. <S> A quick search brought me here: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1423617 <S> I am not sure how well this product works, but it is formulated for Armstrong floors, which are fairly standard. <A> I totally agree with Jimmy Fix-it. <S> Yes, frequent Mop & Glow-ing can be a pain. <S> But, the only other option I know of is to strip it like Jimmy Fix-it said & <S> then Polyurethane it like a wood floor, this would last much longer. <S> You'll need to get a Flexible Poly or have to buy a Flex Additive to mix into the Poly, so it doesn't crack all over... <S> IF it even has any give left in it, they're usually very stiff & brittle at this age.
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Instead, you should only use a gentle cleanser that is designed for no-wax floors. Once this top layer is worn out, there is not much that can be done to restore its appearance. The floor will have a nice shine.
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How to make the door shut on its own after opening? There are some kind of door devices which push the door back after we open the door and come out. My problem is that the door area is not constructed in a way that such a device can be installed. There is no space adjacent to the door anywhere. Automatic closure of door is extremely important to me. Please see following pictures and tell what choices do I have. <Q> <A> There are many types of spring hinges available, though, it is impossible to tell which specific one would be compatible from here. <S> The ones I'm familiar with look like this. <S> They are typically installed as a replacement for one of your existing hinges. <S> I would first measure up the one you have and go to the hardware store to see if they have anything that would work. <S> Instructions on how to adjust them can be found here . <S> (I'm not affiliated, I just found it on google). <A> Spring Hinges like these <S> some don't look any different than regular hinges & some <S> are adjustable to the force of closure that you want, like if your latch needs a slam or the door framing is pinched anywhere & won't catch with a gentle thud. <S> They work great & they last a very long time. <S> But, take an old hinge with you to the store or trace it onto paper. <S> You not only want to match the hinge's height & width, but also the screw hole locations or pattern. <A> If you want to really do it yourself rather than all these fancy-fixes, you probably already have everything you need: A bit of string. <S> A loop (like a little brass screw-in picture wire loop) or two, depending on where you want... <S> A dense weight, preferably plastic covered. <S> A bottle of water would do for testing. <S> On the inside with the door closed, attach the loop to the door frame . <S> As close to the top-opening corner as possible. <S> Mark on the door where the loop is. <S> Attach your string here. <S> Slip knot around a screw and stick that in where you marked. <S> Route <S> the string through the brass loop and attach it to your weight. <S> This will keep a constant closing force on the door. <S> This isn't perfect though. <S> Some case-by-case issues <S> You have a weight hanging in your door frame. <S> This is easy to fix, you can just add more loops (and longer string) and route it to somewhere else. <S> Above the door to behind the door is a neat idea. <S> If it's slamming the door, tune the weight. <S> This is why a bottle of water is a good starter weight. <S> If it won't close fully now, you might need a geared pulley to slow the speed but increase the torque. <S> If you want a smoother closing profile you just need to put the weight in some sort of curved sloped track. <S> Differing the amounts of vertical gravity acting on the string will change the speed. <S> This could be something as simple as setting out a path with a wire coat-hanger. <S> Or as fancy as a flexed curtail rail. <S> There are versions of this around the web <S> but it really is very simple: <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9ccoztLZI8 <S> (most like my explanation) <S> http://www.cosmicrat.com/tech/t2door.htm <S> http://www.instructables.com/id/Counterweight-Door-Closer/ <S> (this sort of pushes the door closed rather than pulling it all the way) <S> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zo-YCtbvr6s <A> Fire doors have to be self closing in most places <S> so you definitely can buy something. <S> Even outside locations where there are requirements, your is a common problem. <S> It may be designed for a heavier door than yours. <S> I fitted a fire door closer that goes inside the door in a large drilled hole, but had to modify it for a lighter spring. <S> This was a hollow interior door. <S> The best search term for this product appears to be "concealed fire door closer" or "chain door closer". <S> Here's a picture of an expensive looking version (via a mildly spammy upload to wikimedia commons): <S> I can't find any pictures of a cheap one with a suitable licence, but a search for google image search for "chain door closer" will do the trick. <S> They're cheap on ebay if you can't find a local stockist. <S> (based on my earlier typo-riddled comment) <A> The string and weight are much like all the doors in the building I went to trade school in. <S> The fire doors weights on either side one to help open it, and one with a lead link that would melt in a fire, disconnecting one weight and allow the door to close automatically from the other weight, They were a little less "pretty" than you probably want <S> but they work. <S> Function, or, form? <A> You could also intentionally hang the door out of plumb, so that when the door is opened it has to be pushed upward. <S> (like an old slanted outside cellar door, but less pronounced.) <S> That way gravity is always trying to close the door for you, so long as you don't open it past 90 degrees.
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You could use a hinge pin door closer: or try replacing one hinge with a self-closing hinge:
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What could cause radon levels to be higher on the 3rd floor than the 1st and 2nd? Details: It's a 3 story building. Each apartment has its own HVAC system. There is no shared ventilation system. The foundation is a slab. The radon levels on all three floors were measured simultaneously. The first floor was 7.3 pCi/L. The 2nd floor was 6.7, and the 3rd was 9.2. Each measurement was in the same horizontal place, near the center of the building. It was done when the weather was cold enough to be sure all windows were likely to be closed. Other tests have had similar results, but were not done as rigorously. E.g., not simultaneously, not in the same part of the building, etc. The results vary a lot with the weather and probably other factors. But it doesn't seem logical that the 3rd floor should ever have higher levels than the other two floors. 4/12/2016 ETA: Tester101 asked if there is a radon mitigation system in place. How would I find out? What does a radon mitigation system look like in a 3 story building? In other words, even if I saw one, how would I recognize it? Can I recognize it by something coming out on the roof? What would that look like? What would the difference be between that and ordinary vents such as drain vents? Is it likely that a radon mitigation system could be malfunctioning and dumping radon onto the 3rd floor? I read somewhere that people don't have to worry about radon on 3rd floors and higher because by the time it gets that high its levels are drastically reduced. But that contradicts another answer to this question, which implied it would be normal for the levels to be higher depending on ventilation etc. I also read somewhere that if the levels aren't lower on higher floors, the radon could be from building materials instead of coming up from the ground. How could I tell if that's a factor here? <Q> Those are some high numbers, 4-pico's is the standard "something needs to done" threshold. <S> Additionally, this rise or draw is magnified when exhaust fans are used or windows & exterior doors are opened. <S> It's best to treat or remove Radon at <S> it's before it enters the structure so the entire structure is then cleared or reduced of Radon levels. <S> However, this could result in more tenant turnover & higher rents... <S> I'm just saying (I'm joking). <A> Check for radon in the water supply to the building. <S> If that's high, it could cause the problem you see. <S> It's estimated that for every 1,000 pCi/L in water an additional 1 pCi/L is added to the air in the average home. <S> So a level of 2,000 would contribute 2 pCi/L, etc. <A> Don't worry about the 3rd level being higher than the others. <S> This kind of range is normal for separate apartments in the same building. <S> Different tennant habits will easily cause this kind of difference, all it would take is the tennant to forget to run bath/kitchen exhaust fans while showering/cooking <S> and they'll have completely different levels than the rest of the tennants. <S> It's not hard to have that kind of difference in levels between floors. <S> All three of your tests returned radon levels higher than recommended, so you should find a radon mitigation solution that lowers these numbers to below 4.0 pCi/L. <S> It doesn't sound like you have any existing radon mitigation operating, or <S> the lower level would be less than 4.0 pCi/L. <S> It's possible the fan isn't operating.
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But, the difference in readings has to do with ventilation & thereby natural convection. Every time water is used in toilets, washing, showers (especially), cooking, etc some of the radon in the water will pass into the air. All air will rise or be drawn-up in a 3-story building, drawing is what's happening with the 2nd floor's lower readings & they're being added to the 3rd floor.
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Is it safe to use an angle grinder with wood cutting blades? Being a newbie to DIY and trying to get more and more jobs done myself, safety is a concern to me. I recently bought a Makita 5" angle grinder to cut some metal balustrades, job done. I considered buying some wood cutting discs for it, which I have seen on-line - to do a few odd jobs around the house, but I found some dated Internet posts that strongly recommended against it, for the safety concern, I am guessing that it's for the grinder losing control. These posts where about 5 or 6 years old and from reading through, wood cutting discs were something not available then either. Now I wanted to ask the question again, am I safe to do so or is it a bad idea? Additional information - the kind of jobs I am thinking of using it for, would be mostly softwood and not thicker than 20 mm. <Q> Bad idea...explained later. <S> Though, it's quite wild compared to a Circular Saw or a smaller Trim Saw. <S> However, "safely" is a bad gamble. <S> You're talking about multiples of higher RPM's & both accuracy & control will then be largely out the window compared to proper devices. <S> One big problem area is ever so slightly twisting your cut (which is normal & not just common with grinders) & that twist binds to instantly & literally toss the grinder at you or any part of you or anyone else close by. <S> Grinders usually don't have a braking mechanism & very slowly free-spin down to a stop, you don't want to be the braking mechanism. <A> Warning image of injury Not safe not smart not at all a good idea. <S> Even with a handle the weight to rpm ratio of an angle grinder make a bind or kick back a near death experience. <S> I came within an inch of losing a thumb yesterday and will never be so careless and stupid again <A> Adding an answer because I happened to see a video on this which has a thoughtful and detailed analysis of why wood cutting / carving with an angle grinder can be so dangerous. <S> The video also has a "caught on video" moment of such an accident (no real gory details). <S> IMO visualizing such an accident is very healthy mental preparation for this tool (or choosing not to). <S> My commentary / summary of what I got from that source: <S> The crux of risk, as I understand it, is this: one edge of the spinning cutter / wheel is moving in the opposite direction from the other. <S> This means that a very small change in tool position can suddenly and radically alter the reaction force on the tool from the workpiece - it "kicks". <S> When this happens you cannot react fast enough to counteract the almost instantaneous change. <S> Coupled with that effect wood as a material is fibrous and tends to grip the sharp pointed surfaces of cutting devices. <S> This is considerably different from other materials like masonry or metal which are often worked with an angle grinder. <S> A "kickback" type event seems to be far less likely or violent (in my personal experience) in those materials. <S> So one's experience with a grinding those materials seems not to translate very well to using the same tool on wood . <S> I think the video is excellent overall <S> but here's the key moment where the accident occurs: <S> https://youtu.be/IIQu1e8DGUw?t=288 <S> This example is using a carving cutter, not a circular saw type blade, but the risk seems similar. <S> (YouTuber: Stumpy Nubs) <A> Warning, image of injury <S> Bad idea <S> this happened yesterday as it jolted back. <A> No it's not safe at all. <S> I would usually be a safe operator of power tools and all that but recently had an accident using one for the first time which resulted in my getting a deep wound just above my right pelvis. <S> My heavy jacket took most abuse for me (saved me really) but the blade still struck into the side of me <S> and I spent the night in hospital. <S> I was very very lucky the damage was not worse. <S> These blades I think should be banned for angle grinders <A> You might be interested in a door jamb saw... <A> It works fine, with the correct blade. <S> And the correct blade is critical. <S> But you need to bear in mind, when it's not grinding an angle grinder functions like a circular saw (or plunge saw), in that it will only cut safely in a straight line. <S> Try and deviate from that <S> and it will jam and kick back - <S> in the same way a plunge or circular saw would in the same conditions. <S> If you're working on any remotely 'green' wood a chain blade is the only one to use. <A> Don't use grinders on wood. <S> They are too light to be controllable. <S> I just got out of hospital after a 4-inch chain disc jumped out of a holly log straight into my right knee. <S> It dug right down to the knee joint - but thankfully missed all arteries and tendons. <S> I have gruesome photos <S> but hopefully my account is gruesome enough
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Very dangerous just never get a wood blade for angle grinder But yes, as long as you keep the blade guard on & of course it will "work".
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Unplugged computer sparked upon touching a cold heating pipe First time here, so be kind with me, if this not the right forum to post. I have (maybe) experienced an electrostatic discharge (ESD) from a computer case some days before, and I'd like to hear your opinions on this accident. A computer case at my work, was not plugged in the mains outlet and it has been approximately 5 minutes, that it has been unplugged and switched off. Only thing plugged in, was the 2 monitors through their VGA cables and I think there were both switched off but unplugged. The computer was a 7+ years brand name machine, with a 300 W, 100 - 240 V, 50 - 60 Hz PSU. Upon lifting the computer case with both hands to place it beside the desk, accidentally it made contact with the cold heating pipe passing nearby on the wall. Suddenly some yellow sparks with sound occurred (similar to arc welding sparks effect). The same time, the circuit breaker turned off the power at another room of the building. According to my knowledge, I did not felt something strange as being electrocuted or anything at all after this happened. The computer afterwards was only started if the power cable was unplugged and plugged in again, and the tech said there is no damage except form a mis-plaiced starting button cord. My questions are:-What exactly happened there? Is it possible that have being exposed to any electricity risk for my health with afterwards effects?-Why does the circuit breaker turned off? Thank you all for your time reading this, and looking forward for any opinion. <Q> If it was just a tiny spark like touching a door knob after walking on carpet, then it's normal & harmless. <S> If it was actually a flash, then something's either grounded to the plumbing & defective or a live wire's in contact with the plumbing. <A> @user3244633 <S> in the days prior to polarized outlets if you plugged your metal toaster or mixer in wrong and rubbed your hand down the side you might get a "tingle" now take your shoes and socks off and it hurts. <S> It depends on how well you were grounded. <S> The more likely problem in my opinion is the hot and neutral are reversed <S> so there could be voltage on the case instead of ground and the metal pipe was ground therefore the arcing. <A> You could die. <S> Seriously, do you not understand how close you came to being electrocuted? <S> If, instead of picking up the PC with both hands, you had braced one hand on the water pipe and moved the PC with the other, you would not now be posting on Home Improvement SE about sparks and circuit breakers. <S> Your family would be posting on Law SE about bringing a wrongful death claim against your employer. <S> You cannot use any electrical equipment in that room until the electrical wiring is properly repaired. <S> Even after the repair, you should get a meter and go around your work area trying to find voltages between anything you might ever touch. <S> I see this question has other answers saying the same thing. <S> I am adding my voice to the chorus because your situation is so frighteningly dangerous.
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If your computer was unplugged but monitor plugged in you have a ground path if the pipe was hot. Most likely, the circuit that the circuit breaker killed & is the problem circuit & must be fixed immediately as it could harm or kill someone.
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Can I safely use a 9w LED bulb in place of a 40w incandescent? I bought a reading lamp that on the box says: Max 1x40W The shop also sold me an LED light bulb that says: 9W=75W So my question is, can I use light bulb or not? I am confused between the 75W and the max of 40W mentioned for the lamp <Q> Yes. <S> The fixture is concerned with heat. <S> Your LED light bulb makes about 9 watts of heat. <S> Your fixture is rated for a bulb that makes 40 watts of heat. <S> With an incandescent bulb, 98-99% of its wattage turns directly into heat. <S> Even LEDs, 90% of their wattage turns into heat. <S> For thermal planning, it's not worth pulling out the calculator. <S> You're "close enough" just pretending it all becomes heat. <S> On the LED bulb, when it says "75 watt equivalent" it's trying to give ordinary consumers a general sense of how bright the bulb is - i.e. about as bright as an old style 75 watt incandescent. <S> The more proper way to say that is "950 lumens", which is a unit of measure for describing brightness to human eyes. <A> SHORT ANSWER: <S> NO PROBLEM LONG ANSWER: <S> The maximum wattage limits are largely a function of heat. <S> For incandescent lights, more wattage means more heat. <S> And too much of a heat buildup could result in shorter bulb life and even risk of fire, especially in a fixture in which the bulbs are fully enclosed. <S> While lighting has traditionally been sold by wattage, what you are really buying is the amount of light, actually measured in lumens. <S> For years, wattage gave us a good idea of how much light came from a bulb. <S> A 100 watt bulb was much brighter than a 40 watt, and a bit brighter than a 75 watt. <S> As different types of bulbs came into use, lumens started to be listed. <S> For a given lumen level, LED bulbs draw much less wattage than an incandescent bulb. <S> For example a 75 watt incandescent bulb gives off between 700 and 1100 lumens (depending on the type). <S> But LED bulbs that give off about 900 to 1100 lumens only use between 9 and 15 watts. <S> Since they are similar to a regular (incandescent) <S> 75 watt bulb in the amount of light output, they are called 75 watt equivalent . <S> A 15 watt LED bulb generates as much light, but much less heat than a 75 watt incandescent bulb. <S> In fact it probably generates less heat than a 25 watt bulb. <S> But it does generate some heat. <S> And some bulbs are marked not for use in fully enclosed fixtures . <S> So long as the bulbs are not marked for limited use, you can generally use an LED bulb that is rated much higher than an incandescent bulb. <S> In general, there is no problem using a 75W equivalent LED bulb in a fixture marked 40W maximum. <S> You are only drawing about 15 watts and generating much less heat than a 40 watt bulb. <A> When a lamp lists a maximum wattage, its doing that based on the heat an incandescent bulb of that wattage will put off. <S> The 9W=75W on the LED bulb is telling you that "even though this bulb only uses 9W of power, it puts out the same amount of light as a 75W incandescent". <S> Lamps are rated on heat and power usage not light output. <S> If the lamp is rated for the heat of a 40W bulb, an LED that uses only 9W of power just can't get that hot even if it was nothing more than a 9W heating element. <A> The bulb will not pose a safety or fire hazard. <S> Those fixture ratings are primarily concerned with: <S> How much current the fixture is designed to safely supply to the bulb. <S> How much heat the fixture is designed to accept from the bulb. <S> The bulb itself is rated <S> 9W. <S> While it has an equivalent rated light output of 75W, for the purposes of heating and current carrying the actual wattage - 9W - is all you need to pay attention to. <S> Therefore, this fixture will accept and run the lightbulb you've selected. <S> That said, please note that unlike incandescent bulbs, the newer LED and CF bulbs incude circuits that typically don't like to get hot. <S> An enclosed fixture, or a fixture where the bulb hangs lower than the base, may overheat these components. <S> If this fixture is enclosed or hangs the bulb from the base, then you will need to make sure the selected bulb is rated for this use. <S> If you don't, it won't present a safety hazard, but the bulb life may be affected. <A> A fixture's rating indicates how much power it can dissipate without things getting so hot as to damage the fixture or its surroundings. <S> The rating is thus affected by two factors: <S> How hot things can get without damage to the fixture or its surroundings. <S> How much power the fixture can generate for each degree of temperature rise relative to ambient. <S> Incandescent bulbs can operate perfectly happily at temperatures which would cause most kinds of fixtures to melt or catch fire, so a fixture which has a heat-resistant surface may be able to tolerate a powerful bulb even if it can't dissipate much heat. <S> LED bulbs, however, will degrade rapidly if operated at temperatures far below those that typical incandescent fixtures can handle without damage. <S> A 9W LED bulb may only generate 1/4 as much heat as a 40W incandescent, but that's still a significant amount of heat. <S> If an incandescent bulb would have reached 150C when operating at a 30C ambient temperature, a 9W LED might reach 60C. A fixture which can withstand temperatures of 150C or even 200C without difficulty won't be damaged at 60C, but LED lifetime may be greatly degraded at such temperatures.
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LED bulbs do get hot, and some get so hot that you can't use them in an enclosed fixture because their internal electronics will overheat, but it won't hurt the lamp.
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Bumped into a joist while drilling for a toggle bolt Uh oh. I've used two other toggle bolts to hang plants using a swag hook in this 2 sq foot area of my ceiling, and it never occurred to me that I might actually hit a joist. The one inch gap between the joist itself and the drywall is big enough that the wood screw bolt doesn't extend far enough to attach the hook. So, can't use the toggle, but can't use the bolt provided because it's too short. Any ideas? Attaching photo of swag hook to illustrate. <Q> Running your 1/2" bit into the joist a ways may give you the clearance you need to get the toggler to expand. <S> Otherwise, I'd drill a hole in the joist slightly smaller than the toggle bolt, run that bolt (without the toggle wings) into the hook, and thread the bolt directly into the wood. <S> It'll hold as well as the drywall would have if you keep it snug. <S> If that's not suitable, your local hardware store may have a longer version of the other (dual-thread) bolt. <A> Going into a joist is preferred . <S> Make sure it's really a joist, then make a trip to the hardware store for the right thing. <S> Most likely you have struck a cross brace. <S> An example is below, but typically on shorter joists. <S> (this was the only existing SE pic I could find.) <A> If you can access the ceiling from above (in the attic?) <S> , then you could use a piece of plywood in the gap. <S> If the plywood is long or large enough to hit an obstruction, to keep it from spinning when you screw into it from underneath, then you will have something to screw into. <S> If you don't have a large enough piece of plywood, but you have a friend, you could hold the wood from above while your helper screws the hook in. <A> It sounds like you could use the toggle anchor with a shorter bolt. <S> I know they're slightly different here in the UK but all the toggle bolts I've seen would allow me to simply cut the bolt down. <S> To cut the bolt, wind a nut onto it then use a hacksaw. <S> File off any rough edges before winding the nut off again. <A> With your toggle on the bolt & screwed down to where the closed toggle wings are a little further from the bolt's head than the thickness of the drywall...you want some slack. <S> Snap or cut (with wire cutters or pliers bending the offending bolt section back & forth) <S> the bolt's length down to the toggle or slightly above of course. <S> Then, also double the drywall hole diameter, nothing close to the hook base's diameter though. <S> This will allow you to just tilt the toggle away from or outside of the joist to let the toggle wings flare out. <S> Once the wings are out then you can pull the bolt back down under the joist & screw the 1/4" or so right into the joist. <S> I've had very little trouble getting that thin bolt screwed into a joist, even a full inch, those hooks are a pretty good handle.
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Your kit just doesn't supply the correct hardware for this particular situation. Getting a smaller toggle with shorter wings will likely get the wings to release, but you still need to shorten the toggle's bolt.
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Why is my air compressor drawing too many amps? I have an old air compressor (1970s/1980s vintage) that has recently started tripping the circuit breaker that it is on. I hooked up a clamp meter and found that when the compressor motor is running with no load (belt removed) it is drawing 12 amps and when the belt is in place it is drawing 27 amps. The motor is a 1hp unit with a listed FLA of just over 17 amps @ 120v. I've checked for any loose connections as well as looked it over with a thermal camera while it's running and see nothing that stands out as obviously abnormal. The motor can be wired for either 120 or 240 volts, and is currently wired for 120 volts. There are four wires inside of the connection box on the end of the motor. What would cause such a high current draw and what should I check next? <Q> With no load on the motor you should not see or even be close to FLA at speed. <S> Sounds like time to add grease/ oil to the motor bearings. <S> You could also replace the bearings. <S> I would not wait long or the rotor may start hitting the stator <S> then it is time for a new motor most of the time. <A> When the current is high with no load, check for proper voltage. <S> The “Rule of Thumb” is Low Voltage = <S> High Amps. <S> Check all connections in disconnect, motor operator, distribution panel, etc. <S> If there is a loose connection, you might show a proper voltage, but when it is under a load it will drop. <S> After you are confident about voltage, check for bad bearings. <S> listen to the sound of the motor while running. <S> Take a long screw driver, touch the bearing housing with the metal end while putting the grip end against your ear. <S> Listen for grinding sounds. <S> Also, while power is off, can you free spin the motor? <S> What does it sound like? <S> While power is off and motor is not turning, can you move the shaft up and down. <S> If all of that checks normal, you might have a partial ground in the winding. <A> What kind of motor is it exactly? <S> Does it have a centrifugal switch? <S> If so, the switch might be bad, keeping the starting winding energized all the time. <S> If it doesn't have a centrifugal switch, but has a start/run capacitor, that could be failing. <S> Either will cause excessive current demand on a single phase motor. <A> Doesn't really sound like an issue with the motor. <S> The motor will have a higher draw when it has increased resistance against it's rotation. <S> That's not abnormal. <S> The problem is farther down the line. <S> What about a filter, valve, etc. <S> that could be bad?
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It is common for older motors to start to draw more as the bearings fail. If voltage is correct at the feed, check all connections to the motor leads.
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What is this stuff in the attic? What is the black stuff in the first four photos, and the white stuff in the last photo? Is any of it mold, or is it all harmless stuff? Structure is about 10 years old. Home inspector claimed that the first four photos are just "truss fungus", which he claimed is present in almost all homes. He didn't notice the white stuff in the last photo. The home inspector claimed that the wood comes like that from the builder's wood supplier, and it is totally normal. Was the home inspector correct, or was he just making a quick buck on a shoddy inspection? <Q> Yep, the black is mold baby & the white is drywall residue or "maybe" some water marking, but that is one straight edge. <S> Bleach & scrub-off the mold & increase your attic ventilation to rid the place of mold. <A> The mold on the lumber appears to all be on engineered trusses. <S> They were likely stored outside before or after jobsite delivery. <S> It's likely that they were rained on then and developed the mold. <S> Mold is everywhere already and it's not a health concern when outside the building envelope, in my opinion. <S> I'd consider misting the floor trusses with a suitable anti-mold solution to prevent spread. <S> The spots on the OSB are just ink splatter from the stamping stage. <S> It's very common even in perfectly dry, well-stored units. <A> Looks like Aspergillus niger , but send a sample to a mycologist at your local university for a positive ID.
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If there's no evidence of moisture problems in the attic now, and the mold doesn't seem to be growing, I wouldn't be concerned. If everything stays dry it's probably not an issue either. You can see that it matches the stamp in color and edge bleed.
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How should I build the walls for a tiny house on a camper frame? I am preparing to build a tiny house on an old camper frame, and am looking for advice on how to build the exterior walls. I'm planning to use 2x3 wood studs at 24" o.c., with 1/4" plywood on the interior and 3/8" plywood on the exterior. I'll use house wrap on the exterior, and r-13 insulation in the wall. Everything will be glued and screwed together. Does this sound like the proper way to build the walls? <Q> It depends what you're after & if you'd "hope" to get an official Use & Occupancy approval. <S> Will you be hauling it around the nation (or locally) or just parking it on a piece of land to drag it into the Sun for the winter & under the trees for summer? <S> If it's just a Glorified Shed Dwelling , then whatever your Local Building Dept. says is whom you have to please. <S> So, they don't condemn it, fine you $10,000 & destroy your masterpiece. <S> Being a dwelling is what paints the bull's-eye on you. <S> Everything will be legal & fully inspected & corrected until it passes as proper & safe... <S> or you can't live in it, period . <S> Otherwise, I agree with Ed Beal. <S> Toting this puppy on the road is a whole different issue & your Dept. <S> Of Transportation will have another set of requirements. <S> Maybe, they want 1/2" plywood inside too for structural & vehicle intrusion stability or 12"oc spacing or the building sealed with Poly Sheeting or all screws & no nails. <S> Other people's Tiny's aren't your concern. <S> They may not take them anywhere nor did it legal at all & will pay the price for not building it proper with well proven & tested materials, methods, procedures & designs. <S> Here's a very loose Summary of CA's Notice to Tiny Housers <S> Here's the Full Notice from CA, directing you to their Uniform Construction Codes <A> It has wheels. <S> Do you have any plans to move this thing? <S> EVER? <S> Because trailers flex, and there are two strategies for dealing with that. <S> #1 make careful material choices so the trailer structure can flex without taking damage. <S> That's where drywall and mud may not be your best choice, for instance. <S> #2 make the trailer base and structure, so rigid and strong that it forces all the flex into the suspension. <S> You might think #2 happens automatically, but it does not. <S> Either way, you have to deal with the forces at hand. <S> The reason for thin walls is simple: it adds square footage. <S> If motion is an issue, I'd say "think like an airplane not a house". <S> Airplanes are insulated. <S> Unfortunately, the simple-living and alternative-energy communities are often hijacked by the "I wanna live in squalor", "gov't off my lawn" and "off-grid, like the unabomber" fringes. <S> Look at any of the "government shutting down timy-homes/off-grid tech" and it's actually the latter <S> they're concerned with: drinking downspout-water or not having smoke detectors in a house full of kerosene heaters, which is usually about being "cheap, the bad way". <S> And in your town, you will be one of the people swaying the government on the question of whether tiny-houses are good or bad. <S> My advice is be a good ambassador: don't be cheap, be classy. <S> Be the magazine showpiece tiny home, which is done less in dollars than in time, care and pride. <S> (well old-pride, when it was a motivator to excellence, not new-pride, which is puffery instead of work.) <A> Don't take it as a criticism, but your design strikes me as a muddled compromise: <S> It's too weak to be considered "real framing" but too heavy for being a lightweight trailer. <S> I'd either go the full-on 2x4 on 16's framing route, or I'd build a "foamy". <S> I wouldn't try to split the difference.
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A house is a house & 2x4's 16"oc with 1/2" exterior plywood properly screwed are the minimum structural elements, for just the walls , that your Local Building Dept. will approve.
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Is this an abandoned wasp's nest? I found a small wasp nest this morning that's about 3" in diameter tucked into the railing of my deck stairs. It's unfortunately facing the side of my house, which is about 6 or 7 feet away, so I'd have to spray it at an odd angle to get enough distance between it and me when doing so. Upon closer look, however, I'm wondering if it's an abandoned nest? It looks like there are a couple holes in places where the sides may have collapsed: I haven't noticed any wasps entering or leaving it when I watched it closely for a few minutes in the middle of the day. Is it safe to knock it down? Should I get a spray for it regardless to be safe? Thanks! <Q> Wasps only use these nests for a year and then abandon them. <S> If you haven't seen any activity it should be safe to just knock it down. <S> Have a fly swatter with you to be safe, but a nest that small isn't going to have wasps pouring out of it. <S> I'm sure you could just run around the corner to get away even if there was a stray wasp or two. <A> Just take a hose to it, from as far away & as close to a door as you can. <S> With the hose set to stream this will mostly just wash away. <S> If there are still any tenants then they won't likely return. <S> But, if they do is when you get the spray, they usually start dying on contact. <A> Since this nest was found in March, it is probably leftover from last year, but it is also possible that it is being built by a queen. <S> March and April is the best time to control wasps for the whole year by trapping a queen. <S> Commercial traps work well, but if you don't want to spend anything, there's plenty of info online for home made 2 liter funnel traps. <S> It/they should be baited with a bit of fried chicken because wasps have seasonal food preferences ; and I know this from experience (full scale research). <S> See the lifecycle of wasps above. <S> The pregnant queen overwinters in hibernation and in Spring, builds a nest. <S> Trapping a queen now, will prevent a colony this summer. <S> On the other hand, wasps are sometimes considered beneficial because they are predators of other insects.
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By the looks of your picture and your description it does seem like an old, unused nest.
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Is a "painting pad / sponge square" indeed the way to get a smooth wood surface after applying polyurethane? My last polyurethane finishing experiment failed. I applied fast-drying Varathane to 3/4" maple plywood shelves. They were very finely finished before applying the polyurethane, and became very rough after. I suspect that the culprit is a combination of overzealously going over surfaces more than once and using a fast-drying formula. It's almost springtime and I'm now about to apply polyurethane to floors (after sanding them). I've learned the two lessons (use a slow drying formula to forgive minor overcoats, and attempt not to overcoat in the first place). Of course I'll be sure to remove the last speck of wood dust before finishing. The last potential issue is the brush. I've used a general purpose brush (similar to those one might use for painting walls). But the first comment at the link above suggests using a painting pad / sponge squares. My local store's website lists "paint edger", brushes , and of course rolls. What are painting pad / sponge squares called at the main chains' websites, and are these indeed the simplest way to get a smooth finish after one application? My objective is to apply one layer this year and repeat when necessary, since I see that even the pros do not bother with two layers so I'd also rather not. <Q> That sounds like water based polyurethane. <S> Water based polyurethane is more difficult than oil based poly. <S> You can recoat water-based poly with oil-based. <S> If that sound like something you want to do, then the first thing to do is let your shelves cure for 2 months. <S> Then use fine (150 then 220 grit) sand paper. <S> Clean the shelves thoroughly; dust with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits. <S> Ventilate the area <S> well and wear a respirator rated for organic fumes <S> (follow the label warnings on the polyurethane can) when applying the finish. <S> Sponges and brushes are just different. <S> Either one takes getting used to. <S> Personally, I often use a lint free cloth over a sponge <S> and I replace the cloth often. <S> I am not saying that my way is any easier than another. <S> Only practice makes perfect. <A> I have applied polyurethane with foam brushes many times. <S> I refinish wood infrequently enough that cleaning brushes is not worth it to me. <S> In my opinion they work great. <S> The trick is to reduce adding to much air to the finish: <S> gently stir the can of polyurethane before you use it but do not shake like paint. <S> Shaking will add a huge amount of air (bubbles). <S> You can pour the finish into another cup for dipping into or just brush straight from the can. <S> dip the foam brush into the polyurethane just enough to partially load it. <S> you do not want the whole thing full of polyurethane and then make a big puddle when you touch the wood. <S> DO NOT SCRAPE THE FOAM BRUSH ON THE EDGE OF THE CAN. <S> just hold the brush above the can and let any extra finish drip off. <S> You can wiggle it a bit <S> but if you scrape the foam you will add a ton of air. <S> As you said, don't go over the finish again. <S> If you end up missing a spot you will get it again on the next coat. <A> Painter's pads for varnish are a compromise between the traditional approaches of applying with a cloth pad (thin coats so more needed, but they go on smoother and dry faster) versus applying with a brush (thicker coats, slower drying of each, more care needed to make sure you don't leave brush marks). <S> By the way, some commercial varnishes labelled as brush on work just fine padded, others do so if thinned slightly ...and either option tends to be cheaper than buying varnish sold explicitly for pad application.
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So far in my limited experience I find I'm happiest with the results from a cloth pad, but this is a matter of picking what works for you on this sort of project; it's all tradeoffs.
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Can I wire 3 switches to 3 devices through conduit with a single hot and ground? I have a bathroom fan/light/night light combo unit that allows for all 3 features to be switched separately (a connector for each). I want a timer for the fan, and separate switches for each light. I'm wondering the best way to wire that. I could just add a 12/3 cable with two hot wires and a 12/2 cable to control all three features. Or 3 12/2 cables. But I was wondering, if one were starting from scratch would they run 3 separate cables from the switch to the fan combo? Or something else? So my thought was, could I run conduit and put a ground, neutral, and 3 hots through it, between the switches and the fixture. I realize that would mean all 3 things going through the same neutral, but that would be the case anyway if I just ran 3 cables from the switches. So is that a valid use of conduit? I also looked for existing cables with 1 neutral and 3 hots (grounded). I think they exist but I can't tell if they're for home wiring or to any sort of electrical code or anything. I'm having a hard time finding the answer because I don't know how to ask. Being an amateur, I want to go with something I know is correct so I'm wary with this. <Q> Conduit is a fine way to do it. <S> This is safer too, because it assures that hots and neutrals actually are together. <S> There's no problem with transitioning between cable and conduit of any kind, so long as you are in locations appropriate to both types. <S> It's also easier to wire, since you aren't stuck with red and black (or marking white or gray neutrals). <S> You can use any color you please; brown, orange, yellow, blue, purple or pink. <S> Even my local lumberyard sells several of those by the foot. <S> (thanks gregmac for reminding me to specify what I assume you know, but the next reader might not.) <S> In metal conduit you must bond the conduit to ground, but you also can let the conduit be the ground, so one less wire to pull. <S> To make a transition from wired ground to conduit ground, the boxes have a hole tapped for 10-32 for attaching the ground wire. <A> If you use conduit you can run a neutral ground and 3 hots. <S> Since these are all fed from the same hot. <S> Flexible non metallic would be the easy way since it will be concealed in a wall <S> it is legal as long as not above 3 floors above grade NEC 362.10. <S> Table 1 chapter 9 says over 2 conductors the max fill is 40%. <S> with 1/2" there is room to spare according to table 5 with #12 wire (table C-1 allows for a total of 9 ea 12awg conductors). <A> If the power is at the switch box, you could simply run a single 12/4 (with ground) <S> nonmetallic sheathed cable between the boxes. <S> You might not find 12/4 at your local big box; or maybe not even at the local electrical supply, but you should be able to order it. <S> Another option would be to use 12/2/2 (with ground) <S> nonmetallic sheathed cable, which is more widely available. <S> Of course as you mentioned, you could always install conduit and pull individual conductors. <S> You don't have to worry about sharing the neutral, as long as all the "hots" are from the same circuit. <S> The neutral is rated for 20 amperes, and there'd be no way to pull more than that without tripping the breaker. <S> NOTES: <S> You might find 12/2/2 listed as 12/2-2, or 12-2-2. <S> In any case, it's a cable with two "hots", two neutrals, and a ground. <S> example using 12-2-2 NM cable.
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One of the luxuries of working in conduit is you can install any wires the circuit requires. Though with 12/2/2, you'll have to reidentify one of the neutral conductors. Of course green can never be anything but ground, even in a conduit. For convenience, they sell green screws 10 for a buck, and pre-made ground pigtails 10 for $3.
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How do you ensure an even second and third coat over matte white paint? This may seem trivial, but is frustrating me. How do you ensure an even second and third coat over matte white paint? Other than a few brush marks here and there, you can't see the fresh paint from the dry. Changing the lighting conditions doesn't seem to help. This is such a common scenario that there just must be a painter's trick. <Q> There's paint on sale in the UK that dries white but goes on pink. <S> The big brand version is called Dulux magic . <S> I haven't tried it because even painting white on white, the wet has a different sheen to the dry. <S> Combined with being methodical this is enough. <S> There are also cheaper brands. <A> Depending on the tools to apply the paint there are slight noticeable marks left by each tool. <S> The paint, no matter what type of sheen it is made of, will always have a wet or shine to the initial coat until it dries. <A> I agree with ojait, the wetness sheen is your indicator. <S> If you have to stop then put a piece of tape on the baseboard (with an arrow if needed) to remind you where you stopped & in what direction to proceed. <S> Painting in single roller width strips is the right way to paint. <S> You want an I "pattern" & not an N, M, V or W to then fill-in the blanks, the wall will be very uneven. <S> Also, substantially lowering the light level will take the glare away & help you see the wetness sheen & even a slight dryness sheen for paint that has dried but not yet cured. <S> You can also periodically use a flashlight or turn off the room's light & put a lamp against the wall that you're painting to magnify the wet paint or wet edge.
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If you apply the paint by always keeping a "wet edge" and paint in a orderly consecutive fashion it shouldn't be difficult to count the coats of paint applied.
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Water Supply Noise due to Thermal Expansion? I have a plumbing issue that I'm looking for suggestions on. After using a substantial amount of hot water (say, a long shower + washing laundry) I will hear a loud rumbling / vibrating sound throughout the house, emanating from the water pipes. The noise seems to originate from the pressure regulator on the main water supply. If I open a hot water tap while the noise is occurring it will immediately stop. (The meters show that no water is flowing while the noise is occurring.) I suspect that thermal expansion of hot water is causing backpressure on the regulator, and the noise is vibration as the seals in the regulator have water pushed past them. My current plan is to get a pressure gauge and replicate the issue by nearly-emptying the hot water tank and letting it fill and heat. This should allow me to see the pressure swing in the system. Then based on what I see for the low and high pressures, consider the following options: Decrease overall water pressure in the house so post-thermal-expansion it does not push back through the regulator. Decrease hot water heater temperature (it's now around the recommended maximum of 130F-ish) to decrease thermal expansion. Add an expansion tank to the hot side of the heater. Does it sound like I'm on the right track? <Q> We had similar issue with hot water heater. <S> Went through three of them in 15 years. <S> Plumber confirmed issue was related to thermal expansion. <S> Consider getting a thermal expansion tank on the supply side of the water heater. <S> That can compromise the tank integrity, causing leaks and flooding from a ruptured tank. <A> Now that you've confirmed it's nothing to do with the T&P valve or Water Heater & only to do with the Pressure Regulator. <S> Then, definitely play with the Pressure Regulator's adjustment when it happens again. <S> But, if the Pressure Regulator is acting up or not working normally, then order a rebuild kit & rebuild it. <A> "Sounds" like bumping or boiling in a gas water heater. <S> Sediment needs to be flushed from the heater.
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If your water company installed a check valve on their side of the supply to the house, to eliminate backflow in to the city water suppy, your thermal expansion is stressing the holding tank in your water heater.
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Cutting wire/cable in close quarters I need to cut some steel wire/cable (the type that's a bunch of little wires twisted together--not sure the technical term for it). The wire is maybe a bit more than 1/16in in diameter. The access is pretty limited. The wire is set back a few inches from an opening that's only 3 inches wide and 4 inches tall. I've tried cutting it with some cheap snippers: they aren't powerful enough. I'm not sure I'd be able to fit some real bolt cutters or the like. What might I use? A narrow hacksaw blade and some elbow grease? <Q> You could try a wire rope cutter like the Felco C2 . <A> You need a pair of cable cutters , where the blades engage each other before any cutting begins, to cut steel safety cable aka, aviation wire . <S> Otherwise, with standard cutters, you'll probably just mangle the end. <S> but if you need to put a connector back on it later, you'll wish you cut it cleanly. <S> If there's no play in the cable at all, I'd have to ask why you haven't taken the load off it first. <S> ( source ) <A> I generally cut wire rope with an angle grinder using a metal cutting blade. <S> Given that this is a miniature version of that, a Dremel or similar high speed rotary tool would be what I'd reach for first. <A> Usually it is easier to cut stranded wire if you first wrap the spot your going to cut with (electrical) tape. <S> A few tight wraps might allow your cheap snippers to work. <A> A long-nosed wire cutter sounds like the right tool for this job: Unlike long-nosed pliers, these have the pivot very close to the nose, but just move the pivot far forward from the wire, so you still have the leverage to apply decent force on the snip. <S> With a 3"x4" hole, you'll be able to part the handles 5", which should be plenty. <A> rotary dremel tool with fibre reinforced disk. <S> just put into the recess, support the tool and slowly cut through the cable.
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Pulling the wire towards the front of the hole should allow you to cut it with almost any tool
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Does a router smooth edges significantly more than a jigsaw? My first experiment with a jigsaw produced a nicely rounded shelf, but it's terribly rough. I am considering reducing the labor needed to properly sand it by getting another toy: a router. A nice side effect of using a router is that the top and bottom edges would not be so square and would be forgiving when someone bumps into them. Would using a router (once for the top side, and another for the bottom) leave the edge sufficiently smooth so that a bit of hand buffing with 200-grit paper would suffice? Or would I be left with something that is even harder to work with because I would need to sand a round, rather than a semi-flat, edge? <Q> Tried to make this a comment but must have been to long. <S> So here goes. <S> I think a router would be what you are looking for. <S> There are bits that will cut a 45 and a curved edge. <S> Both will help with the sharp edge. <S> Some bits control the depth with a shaft (cheaper ones) some control with a small bearing. <S> The trick is to figure out the direction of cut to make the cleanest cut, cut two deep and the cut is rough and the router gets away from you. <S> I usually plan on a rough cut to get most of the material off and then a second cut to get a smooth edge. <S> I like carbide bits with a bearing the best but have had good luck with High speed steel on softer wood. <S> A router is great for trimming laminate counter tops so that could be a future project. <A> Yes, it will smooth an already straight edge. <S> Meaning, it'll just further smooth what's rough feeling <S> & you'll still need to sand & fill for plywood. <S> But No, it won't fix, square or straighten an edge. <S> You would have needed to make the cut in 2 or 3 passes (Router's aren't good for cutting over a 1/2" deep per pass) with a Router butting up to a straight-edge or template, you'll have to rasp it & sand it. <S> Once you've finished sanding & straightening your Jigsaw cut, then the Router will be perfect for cutting a decorative edge onto any piece. <S> I suggest only using Router bits with the ball bearing guides, the solid steel guides can burn the wood & thereby cause wavy edges. <S> But, that's a pretty fine job for a freehand Jigsaw cut. <A> It can be rough putting a decorative edge on plywood. <S> On the other hand, if you can put some facing on that edge, you could use a router to chamfer or round the top edge of the facing and have a super smooth result that you can stain or paint. <S> You could use a thin strip of wood, steam it or soak it in hot water and gently bend it around that curve and fasten it (glue plus brads). <S> The router would be really nice for finishing it. <S> To make the initial cut, though, you've done a great job with the jigsaw. <S> If you try the same thing with the router (or even if you want to try to re-do it with a jigsaw), I would look for something you can use as a jig to guide your cut. <S> And example would be something rigid you could attach to the base of your jigsaw (or router) with the blade/bit poking through, then attach to the counter top at an appropriate pivot point (the center of the arc), then you just swing around the pivot point. <S> Here's an example (not trying to market anybody's product, just looking for an illustration of the concept): <S> https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plans-projects/adjustable-circle-cutting-jig <S> If you put a laminate on top of that, a router is exactly the right tool to clean up the edge.
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A Router used on any edge without a template will only follow the edge that's there, regardless of how good or bad it is.
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when there isn't a ground wire , is it ok to ground to the neutral on a outlet? When there isn't a ground wire, is it okay to ground to the neutral on a outlet? There is no ground wires to my outlets. <Q> No. <S> The usual solution is to replace that outlet with a GFCI outlet, attaching the included label to indicate that it is ungrounded. <S> This provides equivalent protection, perhaps better. <S> In older buildings where the wires run in metal conduit, the metal outlet box is grounded through the conduit. <S> The prong outlets are designed so they can ground to this through their mounting tabs, though some of us prefer an actual wire between the ground terminal and the box. <S> This is traditional and it should work as long as all the conduit and box connections are secure. <S> Or install a GFCI and make sure it is properly grounded. <S> Belt and suspenders. <S> But do not connect ground and neutral at any point except the main breaker box, and do not try to use neutral as a ground. <A> No, it's never okay to use a neutral as a ground. <S> If there's no ground, you can: <S> Install a GFCI receptacle. <S> Install a grounding conductor. <S> Connect to a grounding conductor of a similar sized circuit. <A> Assuming this is with a two-pin plug-top as are used in the USA and Europe, and one of the pins is connected to load and chassis, if the plug is reversed the chassis immediately becomes live. <S> So no.
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NEVER bridge neutral to ground.
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Kobalt Weed Eater unspools immediately on running As soon as I start running my Kobalt KST 120X-06 weed eater the line immediately unspools very quickly (like 5 inches a second). It is like the autofeed is always on. I have made sure I am spooling correctly: http://pdf.lowes.com/operatingguides/841821017460_oper.pdf I have also tried spooling it the opposite directly in case I am somehow confusing what clockwise means in this case. What might be going on here? More stuff: Here is a picture of the auto feed mechanism, including spring (on the left side) which is in place properly as far as I can tell. Even though the area around the spring looks like its full of debris in the picture it is actually just some surface dirtiness, it does not effect the spring at all. Here is same but showing the mechanism depressed by my finger pushing the button. The spring gives some resistance. <Q> Your problem is most likely related to not getting the spring and spool stops inside the spool housing assembled correctly. <S> A spring is normally used to keep the spool pushed up against a clutch or stop mechanism. <S> An auto feed system disengages the spool from this clutch/stop as the spool is spinning allowing a length of the plastic line to unwind off the spool. <S> In correct operation the spool would only rotate part of a turn and then engage the next stop or clutch position. <S> In your instance the spring may be missing or it is being installed in a manner that pushes the spool permanently away from the clutch <S> /stop mechanism. <S> From the operator instructions that you linked the line feed mechanism on this trimmer is automatic at the time the unit starts up. <S> It indicates that the line is supposed to come out 1/4 inch at the time the spool starts up. <S> The mechanism that limits the spool advance, which in this case could be some type of spiral engagement mechanism or centrifugal clutch, may be full of dirt or other debris that keeps it from locking the spool in position as the unit spins up. <S> So based upon that take a close look at how the spool mechanism is meant to work and then make sure to remove all dirt and debris - including something than may have wound up on the shaft inside the spool housing. <A> I just figured out the answer to the problem. <S> I had this exact same problem and just fixed it. <S> The problem is the winding of the cutting filament. <S> I tried that and it fixed the problem <S> and I just weedeated my back yard. <A> Based upon the additional pictures it seems that the clutching mechanism is that blue plastic piece that slides back and forth. <S> The spring pushes the wider part of the blue slider toward the center. <S> In this position the line spool should be able to turn letting out the line. <S> As the motor spins up and the mechanism begins to rotate fast the wider (and thus heavier part) of the blue slider moves out away from center overcoming the spring tension due to centrifugal forces. <S> This action should cause the line spool to lock so that it cannot rotate. <S> From the pictures it would appear that the spool lock is based upon the two triangular shapes sticking up from the blue plastic slider. <S> These must need to engage with stops on the top side of the spool to keep it from rotating. <S> You can test the mechanism for proper operation by first pushing the blue part against the spring tension and see if the thread spool locks in that position (Lock in this context probably means that the thread spool is constrained in the line unwind direction only as the device only turns one direction). <S> The possible problems that I can think that may be wrong are: <S> The blue slider part is not moving freely enough. <S> The blue slider part gets pinched somehow when installing the thread spool keeping it from moving correctly when the centrifugal forces come into play. <S> The spring is too strong. <S> Stopper nubbins on the top of the spool are sheered off or worn away. <S> The spool is not getting seated fully when installed so that the stops on its top are not in the same plane as the triangle shaped stops on the blue slider. <S> (This could be due to installing some washer it spacer in the wrong place). <A> Old post, but <S> my problem was that I was using it incorrectly. <S> I was used to a bump feed weed eater, and I didn't realize that you shouldn't repeatedly press the trigger button. <S> The manual says to let it run down for 5 seconds after you depress the trigger. <S> What you should do is hold down the trigger when you are weed eating. <S> When you let off the trigger, wait 5 seconds until pressing the trigger again. <S> This provides enough time for the mechanism to stop spinning. <S> Otherwise, it will feed out too much line.
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As long as all the mechanics look correct and working make sure the filament is wrapped around the spool in a clockwise direction (when looking at the spool). You are starting up the tool on too low of initial speed (applicable of unit has a variable speed on/off control).
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Faucet supposed to stick out this far? A local plumbing company installed my tub/shower. In my uneducated opinion, this faucet doesn't look right and seems to be sticking too far out. Should it look like this? I don't want to be overly picky, but I did pay a decent chunk of change and want it done right. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGmyRhQ1eto (video of the sleeve sliding back and forth - if it helps to see what's going on. <Q> That's just.... nasty. <S> The spout looks fine but the faucet is both too far out and not square. <S> There's a large gap at the base that looks like it can leak water into the wall space. <S> The "plumber" was either drunk, half-asleep or incompetent. <S> There is no excuse for work that sloppy. <A> I never heard of Screw Dave Day, live & learn. <S> Absolutely, get them back to do everything over, free of charge! <S> Talk to the Owner of the company! <S> That faucet needs to go back, <S> at least, 1 full inch & the shaft sleeve is on backwards & should be tight-tight against the escutcheon plate or faceplate & no eye nor camera should be able to see any of that white behind the handle. <S> The Tub's overflow wasn't done & likely the drain wasn't either. <S> I'm just hoping you got <S> a new & matching shower arm & shower head out of this willfully broken deal. <A> A possible option, probably less desirable than a full rebuild - but easier to get agreement on, is to have a spacer ring put in behind all the visible faucet hardware. <S> That is, between the large diameter circle and the wall. <S> It is possible that the valve body behind the shower wall is too far forward. <S> The spacer ring would take up some of the extra space. <S> EDIT: Just looked at the video. <S> I suggest finding out if a longer sleeve is available from the manufacturer.
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That picture's all sorts of wrong, except tub spout, & not at all professional!
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Why does my mobile home's panel read 240 volts between hot and neutral? The red leg of the panel in my mobile home reads 240 volt from hot to neutral. What might be the cause of this? It's causing the light bulbs to pop, and I'm afraid to turn on any appliances <Q> You do have an open main neutral. <S> Turn off the main power now and call the utility. <S> They will check to see if the problem is on their side of things or yours. <S> I suspect yours though. <A> Turn your power off now . <S> It's possible that someone has miswired it upstream - try checking the caravan socket. <S> It could also be an open neutral, and you have more load on L1-N than L2-N. <S> What do you get from L1 (black) to neutral, and L1 to L2 (red)? <A> In North America, the side of the transformer leading to your house has a coil that steps down from the transmission voltage to 240V. On that leg of the coil, there's a wire that splits off in the middle, so from the the top to the middle is 120V (white-black), and from the middle to the bottom is 120V (red-white). <S> If you want 240V, you simply use the full length of the coil from top to bottom (black-red). <S> Check different combinations and tell us what voltage you get from each, can you get 120V with a combination of wires?
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Sounds like that's what you've got right now., but perhaps it was miscolored or mislabeled.
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Is it a bad idea to temporarily caulk a toilet base leak? We've discovered that our toilet is leaking at the base (related question: How can I repair a toilet that is leaking at the base? ) and needs repair. However, whoever installed the toilet originally decided to concrete it down to the floor, so a DIY repair isn't that simple. We've decided to use it as an excuse to get the whole bathroom refitted. But obviously this'll take time (several months). We need to use the toilet in the mean time, so how bad an idea is it to caulk around the base to stop the dirty water dribbling out onto the floor until we can get the whole thing replaced? It's on the ground floor, if that makes any difference. <Q> It is a very bad idea to caulk around the base of a toilet. <S> Do not wait, pull the toilet up and replace the seal and make whatever necessary repairs as soon as possible. <S> You don't know where that nasty waste water will end up if you seal it in. <A> Of course, I'd say remove the toilet & pop down a new wax or foam rubber seal (I prefer the latter). <S> My first toilet went amazingly better than I thought <S> & I even scraped the pipe back to full diameter. <S> I gave it a shot with nothing but pliers & a wax ring's box, contents & back panel instructions (they come inside the box now). <S> However, as long as "ground floor" means concrete slab & no wood or building structure, then it's fine for a few months. <S> I'd still say replace the wax ring, since you don't know the future & a few months may turn out to be when the toilet finally clogs. <S> To then, find that what the toilet is/was attached to has completely rusted away & a 10-pound/euro job turned into a 1000-pound/euro job. <A> how bad an idea is it to caulk around the base to stop the dirty water dribbling out onto the floor <S> If your toilet connects like this (as is common in the UK) Caulking around the base (where it meets the floor) will have no effect. <S> In the UK, you can also almost certainly disregard advice about wax rings which are used in the US where plumbing arrangements differ. <S> In general if you have a leak, you need to find the source and replace the seal. <S> In your case this might be the push-fit plastic flexible connector (7) between ceramic toilet (5,6) and plastic soil-pipe (8) below. <S> These seals cost around £6. <S> Obviously the issue is removing the close-coupled cistern and toilet. <S> This is usually achievable on a DIY basis. <S> Obviously there is something different about yours since your plumber mentioned concrete preventing them fixing the leak. <S> I suggest you edit the question above to insert photos showing 1) whole toilet 2) connection to soil pipe 3) <S> how the toilet is attached to floor. <S> That way people can offer better advice. <S> If your toilet is leaking somewhere underneath, you might be able to use caulk to temporarily contain a small pool of raw sewage within the outer perimeter of the toilet base <S> but it isn't something I would be happy about, particularly if the floor is OSB or similar. <S> Especially if this is upstairs.
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It is an even worse idea to caulk around the base of a toilet with a known seal leak.
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New remote-controlled ceiling fan doesn't respond to wall switch I replaced a ceiling fan in my bedroom that no longer worked. I didn't pay attention to the wiring when removing the old fan but diligently followed the instructions. The new fan has a light kit and remote kit and it all works perfectly except they are no longer controlled by the light switch. There is a double switch in the bedroom. The right switch controls a lamp next to the bed. The left switch previously controlled the ceiling fan light (the fan itself never worked when I bought the home). I can turn everything off with the remote but want to be able to walk into the room and turn on the ceiling fan and/or light with the wall switch like I used to. I think I may have missed a wire. There is a red, black, white, and green all coming out of the ceiling box but after following the directions I didn't connect the red wire to anything so I capped it off. Should this have been connected with the black wire to the ceiling fan black wire? <Q> If the fan has a remote module, it's designed to be controlled by the remote. <S> You can usually bypass or eliminate the remote module, but it's usually not possible to control the fan from both the switch and remote. <S> You'll have to look in the switch box, to determine if the red wire is actually extra. <A> If you only have one switch you can't turn the fan and the light on and off individually. <S> You can turn on the power and let that control both of them at the same time. <S> Or either the light or the fan but not both. <S> Good luck! <A> you'll need the check the wiring on the switch but at a guess the red wire is the one attached to the switch and the black is always hot and should be wired to just the fan check this with a multimeter to be safe. <S> red and black are the primary wires that carry current <S> I know at least on my fan there are 4 wires on the fan itself a ground (green/bare) <S> a neutral (white) and 2 others that are the hot wires for the fan and light.
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One of them will have to be turned on by the remote or a pull chain while the power is left on.
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Any pitfalls to shutting off house water supply while working? I want to replace the faucet for my kitchen sink. The shutoff valves for both hot and cold are stuck open. I assume I should either try to unfreeze the valves or eventually replace them. If I'm in a hurry to replace the faucet (it's leaking onto the countertop), is there any reason not to just turn off the house water supply while replacing the faucet? <Q> In general, there's no problem using the main valve. <S> However, if the sink valves are stuck, you might find that the main is also in poor repair. <S> If the main is old and rarely used, you might find that's <S> it's stuck or will become stuck once closed. <S> If the main valve is a gate/globe valve, and it looks old and cruddy. <S> You might want to consider replacing that valve as well. <S> I'd recommend replacing it with a ball valve. <A> Open the lowest faucet (usually an outside spigot or basement sink) to drain the pipes. <S> As a precaution I remove the faucet aerators prior to turning the water back on. <S> The rush of water back into the pipes can dislodge sediment and clog the filter in the aerator. <A> No. <S> My hot water valve is stuck open as well, so I just turn off the master valve on the main line. <A> If your home has a 50-gallon header-tank in the roofspace (common in older homes in some parts of the world) it would be advisable to either turn off the outlet valves from the tank or to use rubber bungs inside the tank. <S> Otherwise you have to wait for 50 gallons of water to drain out, which is both tedious and wasteful. <A> If you use the main valve and your house has a level above where you are working, you will have to wait for the water to drain out from any higher plumbing. <S> If you disconnect the line under the sink, all the water will want to drain out of there. <S> Use a lower faucet like an outside one if possible, but that will only drain cold water.
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Generally shutting off the main causes no serious problems.
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What pipe is this? Hello and please bear with me. I'm no expert when it comes to plumbing but I will try to be as detailed as possible. I'm trying to understand what a pipe does in my basement. The pipe seems to be filled with hot water and drains from upstairs down to the basement. I followed the pipe and it seems to lead to the furnace and water boiler. However from there I'm not sure if it is going to the furnace or water boiler. The pipe in question seems to be interconnected to pipes that lead to both units. I have attached some pictures of the pipes below. Something else I was told by a plumber awhile ago was that there is another pipe on the opposite side of the wall that does the same thing that leads into the furnace room as well. 1st Picture: The is an image behind the furnace + water boiler. The pipe I'm asking about is located on the far backside on the right hand side coming through the hole. 2nd Picture: shows the pipe connections on top. I'm new to the site, so I can only post two pictures. <Q> You should be able to feel that they cool off and then get hotter again when the thermostat calls for heat. <S> Your hot water heater has a vent, so I assume it is gas fired, and wouldn't be connected to the furnace. <A> Yep, that's old-timey (original to the building) <S> Radiant Heat, the plumber should've known this right off... <S> I'm just saying. <S> It could be for Radiators, Radiant Floors, Snow Melting or Detached Garage heating. <A> The steel piping is return piping for a steam heating system. <S> The blue box on front of the boiler is a Powerflame gas or oil fired burner. <S> I worked on these for 35 years. <S> The co. is from Parsons Kansas. <S> You can't see enough of the copper tubing to see where it came from or where it goes or what it is for. <S> The room looks cramped with less clearance than codes allow.
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The pipes behind the furnace look to be part of a heating loop.
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Is this outlet grounded? My house was built in 1949 and some of my outlets look like this guy while others run updated Romex into plastic boxes. With the wires coming through the conduit in the plaster, are these grounded outlets? I was going to replace the outlets and want to make sure I understand what is going on with these before I do. Thanks! <Q> Over time these connections degrade from corrosion, and the grounding could eventually fail. <S> This is likely the case with your house. <S> You can test this with an inexpensive outlet tester like pictured below. <S> These typically run around $10, and are a good investment. <S> In your case, you would probably see that this outlet has an open ground. <S> Make sure that the outlet is properly secured to the box before you test it. <S> If you find that the outlet is not grounded, you should avoid using it until you can have that part of your home rewired. <A> This is a picture postcard application for a GFCI outlet. <S> Attach it to the black and white wires without ground. <S> That is code legal for this type of situation, but the outlet should be labeled "no equipment grounding conductor". <S> At that point you can plug 3-prong appliances into it. <S> The GFCI provides much of the protection of the ground. <S> This doesn't satisfy every appliance, but it is, at least, not unsafe. <S> I an skeptical that this is actually grounded because I see both conductors disappearing into a 1/2" hole, and with all the debris on the bottom of the box, I don't see the normal hardware I'd expect to see from the conduit joiner or the BX clamp. <S> An unguarded knockout hole is a real problem. <S> It may look ok now, but when you put the outlet back in and tighten it down, it could pinch and damage the conductor. <S> This is not 1949 work. <S> The outlet is grounded and worse, has those vile "back stabs". <S> That introduces the real possibility that the wire-run is a retrofit also, in which case, maybe it is practical to pull new cable the same way. <S> Those 3-light outlet testers are neat, but keep in mind they can trip GFCI's. <S> (so is the neutral-ground red lamp, but the GFCI is unlikely to detect that one.) <A> They don't appear to be. <S> Wiring didn't usually contain ground conductors during that era. <S> Unless you have grounded conduit and either a pigtail from the box or a self-grounding outlet, it is not grounded.
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Oftentimes, when a home is renovated to use non-metallic wiring (NM), the ground to existing BX cable can also become disconnected. Back in 1949 when your house was built, the code of the time allowed the metal shielding of the BX cable to be used as a ground. There still is a possibility that the ground is intact, but it is unlikely. The hot-ground yellow lamp is, by nature, a ground fault.
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How to cut a rectangle out of a STEEL ruler? Does anyone know how to cut a hollow rectangle out of a steel ruler? By that I mean cutting a small part out of the standard steel ruler while having the outside part still in tact. So a band saw is out the ballpark. Its for a home project and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! <Q> Drill a round hole, and then square the sides with a file. <S> You might also get lucky by calling metal working shops in the area. <S> If they have a punch of the right size, it would take only seconds for them to punch the hole for you. <S> A maker space might have the tools to help you here. <S> Possibly a laser cutter. <A> Depending on how small a square you want to cut out, you may be able to do it with a rotary tool (e.g.- a Dremmel) with a cut-off wheel. <A> For the serious metalworker there are square punches, but for the hobbyist one great tool is the nibbler. <S> This is a handheld punch that removes about 1/8 by 1/4 inch of material per stroke. <S> With practice you can make almost any size and shape hole you want in sheet metal. <S> I know Klein Tools makes one, as one I have one. <S> Others probably do so as well. <A> You can use a scroll saw to cut it out. <S> A scroll saw is similar to a jigsaw because it has a short, removable blade. <S> These kind of saws are designed for very smooth and fine cuts that other saws aren't capable of. <S> Drill a small hole in the center of where the hole will be that is big enough to receive a scroll saw blade with a little bit of extra space. <S> Carefully cut out the section, and cut slightly inside of the line, giving enough of a margin for finishing. <S> Use a small to medium sized metal file to smooth out the hole, and bring it to the final dimension. <S> Rotary tools would not do a great job on this because the diameter of the cutoff wheels are probably larger than the hole you want to make. <A> Lasers! <A> Another option, if there's someone nearby, would be a water jet. <S> They work just like laser cutting only they use high pressure water, and work well for steel. <A> if you have access to a well supplied maker space, a water jet cutter would suit you well. <S> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_jet_cutter
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Laser cutters are much more common nowadays and you may find a metal worker that can do it for you as it would take very little time at all to cut it out (~2-3s)
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Sewer odor from basement floor drain I'm experiencing strong "sewer odors" coming from one of the basement drains. This is an old house (meaning the basement floor drains don't have an elbow bend and instead run straight down / there is no p-trap), but the strong odor is only present at one of three drains--which happens to be right by the furnace. The rest of the plumbing in the house is new (just over 1 year), and the smell hasn't been an issue until the past month or so. Temperatures are still in the 30-50s range. I'd gotten some "septic helper" at Home Depot, and was looking at ordering some active enzymes, but was not sure if they'd remain in the area long enough, or would be quickly whisked through. Pouring water into the drain helps a little, but it's a daily exercise to even keep pace. Basically, I'm not sure what to do to treat the root cause of the issue, and keep the odors from making me gag. Any help would be appreciated! <Q> Just cover or seal it since it's not being used for anything. <S> If it has a screw-down grate you can take that up & punch the screws through even just a plastic lid or its portion & screw the old cover back down for a solid seal... <S> coffee container lid, <S> peanut can lid, etc. <S> They expand as you turn the wing-nut to lock into the pipe fairly well. <S> Plug all 3 drains so the house can't fill with either methane or just stink at any time. <A> If it is an evaporation issue ,the water evaporated opening the drain, try some RV winterizing fluid a)won't freeze b)slower evaporation rate <S> You said "Pouring water into the drain helps a little, but it's a daily exercise to even keep pace. <S> " <S> This leads me to believe that you do have a P trap <S> and it is losing water.cause a)evaporation, not likely to fast. <S> b) <S> the trap froze at some point in the past and has only a slow leak. <S> The RV antifreeze will prevent this in future down to -50 after you fix the possible broken pipe. <S> As a temporary fix/test Parts: 1gal. <S> Screw top jug, 1/4"-1/2drip line 3"-1',sharp objet to make hole in lid slightly smaller than tubing , 1)attach pice of tubing through the lid,make it a air/water tight fit must not leak.2) add water to p trap 3) <S> turn over and put on top of the drain the tubing should be in the water 3)pull <S> it backout and cut tubing at the water line 4)filliwth water5) <S> poke the tube down the drain invert jug once the trap is full (stops flowing)mark water level time and date. <S> it should stay put until the water in the p trap dropps below the tube allowing air to enter the jug and water to refill the trap. <S> This should take months to empty a gal jug through evaporation or hours for a cracked pipe with your previous daily chore of refilling the p trap <S> my guss is that you need a new p trap <A> I'd be surprised if there's really no trap on that line. <S> Humans have known how to block sewer gas for a very long time. <S> Anyway, consider adding a drain trap or a trap above floor level if you don't need that drain as a flood relief. <S> Chances are you can raise the furnace condensate line to match. <S> Also consider making a small box cut in the concrete and fixing it properly with a new trap. <S> You can rent a diamond saw and open up maybe 18" square, then patch it back in with a bag of concrete mix.
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The Home Improvement stores also have plumbing plugs for most sizes of pipe, which are more permanent & better sealing.
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How much concrete for a fence post? We're going to build up a 4' fence around our property sometime in here in the spring or summer with 4x4 posts. I've seen that you should bury 1/3 to 1/2 of the above ground post height; so this would make our hole 1.5-2' deep with gravel below. I've also seen that the diameter of the hole for a 4x4 post should be 12".. which would make the radius 6". After going through the math for the hole ( pi x r^2 x h ) it comes out that the hole will have a volume of 1.57 cu ft, but the post itself will take up 0.17 cu ft, so the volume to be filled with concrete will become 1.4 cu ft per post . Right? The question I have now is that a 50lb bag of fast-setting Quickrete apparently fills 0.375 cu ft after setting. This would mean that we'd need almost 4 bags per post (3.75) - this is also the number that comes up from Quickrete's online calculator. I'm not against this exactly, except that I've seen people saying they've used half a bag per post or a bag a post. How accurate is this and how much should we need? At that rate, we're almost looking at 100+ bags. The 80lb bags fill about 0.6 cu ft and are about a dollar cheaper, is there anything against going with it? What type of concrete do I need to use, and how much? <Q> Wow! <S> I normally use post hole diggers (6" diameter?) <S> 3 feet deep and ½ a bag of redi-mix per post. <S> I did a free standing section of 6 foot privacy fencing this last summer <S> and we just had a storm of >50mph winds and it is still standing and solid. <S> So, some of it depends on the quality of your soil but 4 bags per post would be major overbuilding in my opinion. <S> If you had access to an 8" auger and a full bag per post would still be overbuilding but if you are OCD then that would probably satisfy your worries. <S> Good luck! <A> Just to "sort of" sidestep the question. <S> You don't need any concrete or gravel whatsoever & all of that nonsense is a complete lie & does nothing. <S> Just dig 6" holes, drop in the posts, double plumb them & backfill & tamp with the dirt you dug or drilled out. <S> I have 3 fences of 6' high that I did 15-years ago <S> & none are failing, falling nor rotting & are unchanged from the day they went in. <S> Now, concrete used for the purpose of having replaceable posts is different & in that case you do want a 12" hole & likely 2 bags. <S> This <S> I have no problem with, but most no-one does it. <S> Monkey-see-monkey-do says to "just pop-out that 200-pounds" & do the whole absurdity all over again from scratch. <A> I am an oklahoma farmer, have built miles of durable barb wire fence. <S> The rule of thumb out here is a fence post hole should bottom out below the frost line, or else the posts will heave out. <S> At my latitude of 36 deg, that is 2 to 3 feet deep. <S> That is a long heavy rod of steel with a 2 inch disk on the end. <S> You tamp the hole as you fill it, because the barb wire puts so much tension on the post. <S> Corners and gate entries are fortified with H-braces, an extremely rigid structure made of 9 gauge wire, two posts 8 feet apart, and an 8 foot pipe (the center of the H). <S> Concrete would probably help act as a "dead-man" <A> here in ontario, the code requirement for any fence adjoining a property line in any incorporated municipality is an 8" dia hole with either a 2" steel or 4" pressure treated spruce post set to a minimum depth of 48" below grade. <S> the post must be set into either compacted sand or mpa20 or higher concrete, and the post must be embedded full depth minus the diameter of the excavated hole. <S> this is for any fence up to a maximum of 6', which in most towns is the maximum allowed by municipal bylaws. <S> anything over that height requires an engineer. <S> if its solely on your land (more than 6" within the surveyed lot line) then there are absolutely no requirements or stipulations. <A> Concrete specs from manufacturers ALWAYS use amounts and measurements that produce a structural footer for supporting decks, pole barns, observation posts, flood zone pole houses, and structures. <S> I promise you they are NOT going to say "none" if you ask how much concrete for stretched wire / mesh fencing posts <S> but in most cases "none" is correct - just keep the hole's diameter as small as possible to fit the post and a packer able to fit around the tight sides. <S> When DOES a fence post need concrete footing? <S> Framed up <S> wooden privacy fences <S> 5ft or higher should use posts footed in concrete. <S> Stretched wire and mesh fencing over 100ft long might benefit from concrete set end posts and when the fence turns more than 5 degs the post it turns on should be set in concrete. <S> Use an H brace on both sides of this turn pole if the fence is so long it needs more tension to maintain form - good thing, as this is what makes the fence strong and effective. <S> Slack fence droops, bends, and is easily compromised. <S> Tesioned fence is rigid, maintains form when push and rubbed on, and you can use t stake poles every 10-12 ft between wooden poles set in dirt once every 60 - 100 ft. <S> as the tension holds itself mostly up already.
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The hole should be wide enough that a tamper-bar will fit between the post and the edge of the hole.
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How to make a straight groove easily? I have a project for which I need to cut a groove in 44x44mm wooden plank. The groove is supposed to be 15mm deep and about 3-4mm wide, as well as no less than 150mm long. It is supposed to be positioned in the middle of one of the sides, aligned in the centre of the plank's face. The purpose of this groove is to retain a slide-in plexi piece and hold it in place - I intend to place some cushioning in the groove to prevent rattling. The most important feature for me is straightness - if it's not straight I will not be able to hold the plexi firmly and aesthetically in place. This is a home project and I do not have a lot of tools. Specifically, I have no power tools apart from a drill/. I can't afford to buy a table saw (other than having a place to keep it) but could possibly buy a cheap angle grinder if need be - but I don't do a lot of DIY so I don't want the tool to be wasted. What is the best way of creating such a groove, without splurging on single-use equipment? <Q> This can be done most easily with power tools as discussed in previous answers. <S> However, assuming that you can create a good guide using a metal straightedge clamped to the workpiece, and you can clamp the workpiece to a heavy table, and you have a long hand saw, you can do either of the following: <S> Saw/Drill Approach <S> Put your fence together to create a rigid straightedge aligned with one side of your groove. <S> Now saw down 15 mm while pressing your saw up against your fence. <S> Mark your saw at 15mm of depth <S> so you can see how deep you've gone. <S> Move the fence to the other side of the groove, and repeat. <S> Mark a 3.5 mm drill bit at 15mm of depth. <S> Mark the centerline of of your groove with a pencil. <S> Drill multiple vertical holes along your groove to a depth of 15 mm. <S> This is much easier with a drill press; you will drill 40-50 holes per plank. <S> Using a small chisel, break out the remaining pieces, and try to make the bottom reasonably flat. <S> This will work, but is tedious, and requires your initial 2 cuts to be very accurate. <S> Most people would simply find someone who had the correct tool, and who could do this in 2 minutes with it. <A> Just to throw in some other options, if you don't need the 44x44. <S> Presuming the Plexiglas fits, buy a tongue & groove plank to handsaw down. <S> You'd first cut the lengths you need & then stack those to cut the widths or depths you need. <S> Or, use 3 pieces of wood to make a wood sandwich. <S> Screws would just be your clamps if you don't want many or need super strength (put on backside). <S> The "bread" would be equal width & the "meat" would be less wide. <S> This can all be done with thin plywood if you want to saw a lot or ideally with different width planks or aluminum flat bar to just attach to each other. <S> You glue & screw them all together in a singular long stick & then cut the stick apart as you need. <A> The two ideal tools for this would be a table <S> saw or a router . <S> Since you don't have room to store a table saw, a router would be best. <S> A table saw or a router will give you a cleaner cut and will be less work, but a circular saw is easier to store than a able saw and probably has more value for a DIY'er than a router (depending on the nature of your projects). <S> If you get a router or a circular saw, also get a very straight piece of wood or a router/saw guide/
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A close second to a router or a table saw for this purpose would be a circular saw .
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Is there a peaceful way to handle this bird slowly destroying my car? There is a pest of a bird doing everything it can to damage my car. Its actions are best described by watching it in a YouTube video, though I'm not certain how or if SE allows embedding, so here is a link: https://youtu.be/3JRmFax6oZo It appears to want something inside of the glass or reflected in the glass, as it can be seen at the 1:52 point in the video to be pecking at my sunroof, but the the only thing under it is the beige cover, so the car's interior is not visible. It also does not peck at any of the metallic parts of the car, only the glass. It is hard to catch, even on video, but I have witnessed the bird take interest in its own reflection in the mirrors. A car cover is not an option for me as it attracts other pests, such as mice and rats, plus car covers do not last long where I am because of the very high wind gusts. I certainly do not wish to harm the bird, and this is the only bird in over 10 years of living here that has ever done this. If anyone knows a way I can convince the bird to leave my car alone, I would be greatly appreciative. <Q> A cat would work LOL. <S> Lots of bird problems this week. <S> If you have a garden hose close. <S> I use a motion activated water sprinkler. <S> Probably will only take a few times and it wont come back. <S> Motion sprinkler <S> it keeps the geese out of my pool. <A> Well, at least someone likes your car, even if it's an insane Towhee. <S> Did you tell him you're calling the cops? <S> He's probably got a ground or low nest nearby, birds are nuts about territory. <S> If you can find the nest then just relocate it. <S> There are also Sonic Sounders or put a shiny pinwheel in the ground or hang glittery ornaments in the tree or a cat ornament or spray some Bird Repellant (Towhee's are sparrows) around the car's area & maybe a little on the tires. <A> The bird is attacking his reflection in your windshield... defending his territory. <S> I had the same problem with a car door mirror, peck marks galore. <S> light colors don't) <A> Have you tried an artificial owl? <S> Most birds are afraid of owls since they are predators. <S> Try putting one on a post near your car. <S> If all else fails a pellet rifle would take care of him but would be a little more violent. <S> Good luck though! <A> Shoot the bird with a BB gun. <S> Won't kill the bird, but it'll get the message after a few shots if it even comes back after the first. <S> This worked with some pigeons I had to deal with a few years ago.
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Get a car cover or put a white colored sun block behind the windshield (dark colors behind glass make mirrors...
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How to leak proof roof? I'm working on converting an external garage into an office. I've removed the original flat roof and replaced with a pitched roof. I designed and built the roof trusses myself. I then put underlayment on the timbers and tiles until the job was complete. The tiles overlap and are screwed to the woodwork. The problem is that the pitch of the roof is such that when the rain is at an angle, water gets in at a few spots. The question is, what's the best way to resolve this? I don't want to redo the roof, so I was thinking of using Marine plywood secured inside immediately under the tiles with felt on the plywood, creating a run off to the bottom of the roof and to the outside. Would this work? Is there a better solution? Another thing I was thinking of was using expanding foam instead between the tiles to seal up any gaps or places where water could get in. [edit] Please see below a screen shot of the roof structure taken from 123D Design: The trusses are 462mm apart, each truss is made from pressure treated timber 38mmx63mm. The root is 4840mmx4226mm. The underlay is from Jewsons, http://www.jewson.co.uk/search-results/?keywords=roof%20underlay The tiles overlay at least 2 inches. The underlay overlaps approx 3/4 inches. There is nothing under the underlay except the trusses. There are at least 2 leaks. The pitch of the root is approx. 30 degrees. Hope this is the required information. <Q> You have either, too flat of a pitch in your roof or installed your roof tiles incorrectly. <S> Just accept it and move on. <S> It's going to have to be redone. <S> You would be wisest to tear it all out, then get someone who knows how to do it correctly in to do it. <S> If you half-ass it now, it will just come back later, usually after causing structural damage for years. <S> Sorry, I know the truth hurts, but it's better you know now. <A> What is the pitch of your roof? <S> In the USA, this type of roof (most roof types, in fact) is installed over solid decking (usually plywood or OSB) with the underlayment nailed or stapled over the decking. <S> Any water that gets under the tiles when the wind is blowing falls onto the underlayment and is directed down towards the eaves. <S> It seems that you have followed standard non-USA roofing practices and installed the underlayment right over the timbers with nothing solid underneath them. <S> The downside to this approach, as you've discovered, is that with no support below the underlayment in most places, it can only shed a small volume of water before ponding. <S> This type of roof is more sensitive to perfection in the choice and installation of the roofing material itself to keep out water. <S> The underlayment is a last ditch defense backup. <S> Clearly your roof is too shallowly-pitched for the headlap of the roofing tiles you chose. <S> At this point, you have no good options other than removing the tile and redoing the roof in one of several ways: <S> Add solid decking over the truss timbers and then reinstall the underlayment and tile <S> Rebuild the trusses to have a steeper pitch and then reinstall the underlayment and tile Remove the existing tiles and install a type of roofing more suited to a shallow pitched roof in a rainy climate with no solid decking, such as metal panels <S> Remove the existing tiles and replace them with ones having a greater headlap that are designed for shallower roofs <S> There are various band-aid fixes you can try to apply such as caulking the tiles <S> but they won't last. <S> The roof has been built fundamentally incorrectly. <S> It must be re-done to have any kind of longevity. <A> Just a caulk between tiles will last for decades. <S> Pry the covering tile up as much as you can & either squirt the caulk in or load it on a 25mm putty knife to butter the seam of the abutting tiles beneath.
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And it seems that you chose roofing tiles with too short a headlap (amount of each tile that is hidden below the tiles above it) for the pitch of roof you built: the shallower the pitch, the more headlap is needed for each tile. Personally, I've found latex caulk or silicone to last exceedingly longer than any "specialty" roof garbage.
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How to make sure a tile does not bust on a high point in the floor I am tiling a bathroom for the first time. It is an upstairs bathroom so I pulled out the vinyl and luan. The subfloor met the standards that I found else where on this site. I laid hardibacker board with total flex thinset and then screwed it all down. I then taped and used thinset on the joints. I started laying my tiles yesterday and everything was going fine until I reached an uneven spot. It is at the sink area on one of the joints. I have sanded that area down as much as possible, but the tile is still able to make a rocking motion when I lay it down without any thinset. I already cracked one with thinset on it when I tapped the block with my rubber mallet. So here is my question, how do I make sure the tile does not crack? Do I build up the thinset in the low areas? Wouldn't that make the tiles higher than the surrounding tiles? Edit- this is the case for 1 tile only Thanks,Tiffany <Q> Your floor must be flatter period. <S> You must fix that issue before continuing. <S> This has nothing to do with thinset or anything else. <S> Thinset is not used to build up the subfloor, it is used to bind to it and create flexibility. <A> I don't believe there's a problem here, though you haven't indicated how much movement occurs. <S> Almost any tile will rock a tiny bit in one direction or another. <S> If you've mixed your mortar correctly you'll have at least 1/8" of forgiveness for slightly uneven joints or shallow floor humps. <S> Set the tile with firm pressure (not hits) and slight twisting. <S> If you're still unsure, lift the tile and verify that you get good, uniform contact and support from your mortar. <S> Scrape the tile and the floor clean and re-trowel. <A> if we are safe in assuming you are correct in making sure the runout on the floor is within standards used for the tiles, subfloor and mortar you are using. <S> then unfortunately, you are using too small of a notch on too big of a tile. <S> i say assume because you may be incorrect in either your measurements or which standards to use. <S> ANSI <S> A108.02 <S> 4.3.7 specifies a lot of different scenarios, but generally its considered to be maximum variation of 1/4" in 10 ft, with no localized variation greater than 1/16" in 24". <S> these are pretty strict, but if your floor is good, then the issue is your mortar bed. <S> you probably need notches of 1/2 x 1/2 or 3/4 x 1/2 for your floor tiles. <S> this is pretty common for 300mm <S> x 600 <S> mm tile. <S> you can either pull up what you have and just redo it again with everything done correctly, or you can further sand, grind, scrape, etc as you go and hope for the best. <S> you may find other tiles that require the same treatment, and maybe even some that can't be remedied no matter how much base you remove. <S> my suggestion would be just pull it up now while the mortar is still green, but its your place, not mine. <A> If you are able to access the floor from underneath, you might be able to level it with some shims and or 2x4s. <S> Then use a couple of pry bars to distribute force evenly <S> (don't break the plywood) <S> when lifting the floor and insert shims to suppport the low spot. <S> If you have 2x10's you should add a 2x4 scab.
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Of course you will need to recheck other areas to make sure the tiles are all level. Re-read the mortar instructions and make sure you've mixed it properly. First, make sure your subfloor is nailed down, not screwed. Maybe one of the floor joists is sagging or one joist was installed with a high crown (suposing that you have 2x10's, not trusses).
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Redoing my roof: how should I redo my insulation? I live in Denver. My 60 year old house is 1.5 stories. The upstairs has a highly sloped roof and definitely has insulation in the relatively narrow attic and I believe has insulation at the angled portions of the second story and in the hip walls. However, that insulation is not updated since 60 years ago and was found by a home energy audit to be insufficient. I have to have my roof redone this year due to hail damage. The roof is asphalt shingles. Most of the attic space is tiny, like 4 feet tall. There are currently vents on the sides of the house, but no vents in the top nor any vents in the soffit. There is an attic-fan which draws are in through the vents on the side of the house - the fan runs on on a thermostat. Should I have the roofers take off all the shingles and plywood in the roof, redo the insulation in the attic/walls, and then reinstall the roof? If not, what strategy is the best in terms of cost, improved comfort, energy savings? A picture may be worth a thousand words? Here's a cross-section focused on where we have insulation, of what quality, and where we have access. <Q> Unless you need to, don't rip off the sheathing. <S> At 60 years old, it may need it anyways. <S> If you look at the roof can you see dips between the rafters? <S> If the sheathing is still flat, keep it in place. <S> Your best bet is probably blown-in cellulose. <S> You can hire a company to handle it, or rent the machine from your home center. <S> You should only need a small access point to get the nozzle in, large enough for a rake to smooth out any irregularities. <A> If you're getting your roofing materials replaced and the roof decking exposed, you have a golden opportunity! <S> What you could do is add several inches (4+", <S> preferably 6+") of roofing polyiso over the exposed roof decking (no need to remove it unless it's rotten or moldy) before installing new underlayment and roofing. <S> Use foil-faced polyiso for the top layer, then install vented ridge-to-eave purlins and cover that with foil-faced roof decking with the foil facing down. <S> Then install the new underlayment and roof over that. <S> Many roofers--including nearly all who do commercial jobs--will be familiar with this approach. <S> This will transform your roof into a "hot roof" with a radiant barrier and ventilation over the insulation, and the attic will be transformed into "interior" space, if that's something that would be desirable. <S> A part of this work would be to remove/block off the old soffit vents, ridge vents, turtle vents, gable vents, or any other vents. <S> The only ventilation you need is the new channel between the polyiso and the new roof decking. <S> A major advantage of this configuration is that compared to a "cold roof"/vented attic, it can all but eliminate heat gain from the roof, especially if you take the opportunity to insulate between the rafters (with anything vapor-permeable, like fiberglass, mineral wool, denim batts, or cellulose). <S> It's also the best and cheapest way to make the attic into habitable space if that's something you'd like to do at some point (e.g. turning it into a bonus room or another bedroom or something). <S> If you decide to do that later, your only option is spray foam which is much more expensive. <S> There are also benefits if there are any ducts in the attic. <S> If this isn't something you're interested in doing, or these advantages don't seem compelling when weighed against the substantial cost of such an operation, then the impending roofing job presents no other special opportunities for improving your attic's insulation. <S> You can add more insulation to a vented attic at any time, irrespective of whether or not the roofing materials are being replaces. <A> If your Insurance is involved & especially can approve of & pick up the decking replacement expense. <S> Then, absolutely go that route! <S> However, have the Roofer Sub-Contract it out to an actual Insulation Company, so it has a better chance of being done right... <S> if you can't inspect the work. <S> Also, preferably new gutters & downspouts with Gutter Guards. <S> If any or all of that's needed or desired.
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You'll want a Vapor Barrier, as much Insulation that will fit or the highest R-value affordable (Batts, Blown-In or Sprayed-In), Venting Baffles on top of the insulation, maybe even a Radiant Barrier on top of the Baffles & Eave or Soffit Vents that flow to a newly installed Ridge Vent.
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What is the chance of success when clearing a downspout from the bottom rather than the top? As you can see in the image, I have a blockage somewhere in the downspout. After climbing a ladder leaning against the wall, I was still unable to see, nor even extend enough to reach, from the top. I am abandoning the idea of reaching from the top since I do not wish to lean the ladder on the eaves (please contradict if leaning a ladder against eaves is ever a sensible thing to do). My next attempt is to reach with a drain auger from the bottom, after disassembling the bottom segment from the downspout. Do I have a chance of clearing the debris that way or should I just call someone to do it? How would they access it anyway? By walking on the roof? <Q> Your chances of success are high. <S> I use the "bottom up" method <S> but I use a garden hose on full blast rather than a drain auger. <S> Do I get wet? <S> YES <S> Does it clear the blockage (packed in tiny leaves and sticks from a Jacaranda tree) every time? <S> YES <A> Disconnect the bottom bend from the downspout and use a simple metal coat hanger straightened out and with a small hook in the end either through the top or bottom. <S> Or simply use your hose without a handle on full blast as a drain auger from the top, still making sure to disconnect the bottom bend in the downspout. <S> You'll get wet this way, but it does a pretty good job at clearing anything out. <A> As you see in the diagram, the blockage will happen either at the dotted circle or at the dashed circle. <S> If the workmanship is perfect, the dashed circle (straight connection) is not a place you'd expect blockage, but, well, it was hardly perfect when I looked. <S> To let rain clear the downspout, undo the connection at the dashed circle and leave it unconnected for one rain shower. <S> Connect shortly after. <S> You're naturally taking the risk of some water reaching close to the foundation, and so it's important to schedule this for a time when the forecast is for one brief rain shower, but one that will produce a nontrivial volume of water. <S> If that fails, the next option is to hose the downspout from the bottom, as Jimmy suggests.
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The simplest solution is to let rain clean the downspout.
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Baby proof 240V outlet(for air conditioning) in living room I have a 240V outlet in living room. It is used for AC unit installed just above it. This outlet is very close to floor. Around 3 inches above floor. We have small baby in house and she has started crawling now. I need to baby proof this. I could not find any safety covers for 240V outlets anywhere. Amazon has many safety covers but all are for 120V standard two outlets. Here is the picture of this outlet and AC unit above it. I cannot put anything in front of this as it would block AC. Any ideas on how I can block this part of wall from baby. Any idea is welcome. Thanks, Sunil <Q> I think that what you want is an In-Use Cover. <S> Secondly, baby fencing is a must. <S> EDIT- <S> Mounting an in use box: <S> EDIT- Plate kit: <A> If the cord is plugged in and the unit is running, why would you need to "baby proof" it? <S> Are you going to do this to all the receptacles in your house? <S> As long as the cord is plugged in <S> and it is a good tight fit <S> a baby would have a pretty tough time removing it or tampering with it. <S> You could also put it on a GFCI breaker to further protect it. <S> Good luck! <A> Put a piece of duct tape over it when you aren't using it. <A> I needed the same thing for an unused larger outlet in my home and couldn't find any, but I have a 3D printer so I made a design that you can print out yourself with one.
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If you don't want to attach it to the wall (understandable), just set something heavy (like a box or bucket of stuff) on the inside and oustide of the fence to support it and keep baby from knocking it over. This receptacle is probably on a separate breaker and could be shut off when not in use. If you don't have some, or don't need it here, you'll need it somewhere. It appears you have a built-in AC unit there. Even if you don't have a 3D printer of your own, I believe a number of print shops such as UPS now offer 3D printing services.
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Correct order of operations for caulking + sealing bathroom tile? Around my bathtub I have tile, and the old latex caulk where the tub and tile meet is cracked so I've removed all the caulk and am ready to put new silicone caulk down. However, I would also like to seal the all of tile using the 511 Impregnator sealant. My question; Should I caulk around the tub first and let cure, and then do the sealant? Or the other way around? Tub meets tile Tile meets floor. Ok to caulk over stuck grout? Should I re-grout this area instead? <Q> Those answers are all wrong, I've been a general contractor for thirty years and have had to repair other "experts" work on a regular basis. <S> seal tile first. <S> clean very well with acetone or lacquer thinner and let dry tape off both tub and sealed tile with blue tape <S> so your completed job looks nice. <S> fill the entire void with polyurethane such as sidewinder to completely fill void(do not grout there <S> the movement of the tub WILL crack the grout). <S> wipe it down with your finger dipped in paint thinner then pull tape and discard and wipe one more time with your finger to lay edges flat. <A> I haven't used the 511, but I would caulk first. <S> Please actually forcibly fill the gap & don't "cover" the gap with a big caulk ramp or bead. <S> Just the pin-strip of caulk should be left behind & mostly flush with the tile. <S> Use a tub & tile caulk with or without silicone, don't use a straight silicone. <S> Sealers ruining or weakening caulk's seal is common. <S> This also will help to extend the life & color of the caulk, possibly even boost the caulks mold & mildew resistance. <A> To directly answer your question, I agree with Iggy, caulk first, then seal. <S> My long response is going to be different however: Steps:1) <S> Clean excess caulk2 <S> ) Clean edges to be caulked with acetone (or if you have natural stone, methyl hydrate, or even weaker, alcohol <S> if you have sensitive materials)3) <S> Allow a few moments for the cleaner to evaporate (prep for caulking)4) <S> Caulk using type 2 silicon, do not fill the gaps (more on this later)5) <S> Allow to caulking to cure <S> and you're done <S> Why you use type 2 silicon <S> : It has an additive to kill off mold and mildew, should the cleaning not have been amply thorough it will kill it off (avoiding one reason for caulking failure. <S> Why you caulk only two edges: If your house is constructed with wood (like most) there will be expansion and contraction, a major reason for caulking failure (the major reason is the surface is unfit for caulking) <S> is because the caulking is attached to more than two surfaces, causing it to be pulled away from the perpendicular surfaces. <S> Why you don't use sealants: <S> Unless you have natural stone, the grout is extremely resistant to staining (and has been for about eight years now) while tile doesn't stain (again, unless it's natural stone). <A> I disagree with the current answers. <S> I have answered this for the bottom of the tile on the top of the tub <S> and I find my answer to be the same here. <S> You grout to have a base. <S> If your grout cracks then your caulk. <S> If your grout never cracks (it happens) you don't need to worry about caulking. <S> If your grout does crack your caulk will have a base, will last longer, and it will appear more uniformly. <S> Takes literally 10 mins to grout that area including mixing in a throw away cup.
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With the caulk applied first, the 511 can then seal everything & you won't have any chance of caulk adhesion problems.
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What is code or common rule when securing multiple electrical lines? What is common practice or code when running new electrical lines in a home(15 amp/20 amp) in a basement that feed up to the 1st and 2nd floor of a home? Is there a rule on how many wires can be run down the same floor joist overhead? In other words, If I need to run 10 new 15amp/20amp lines, can they bunched together and secured to the floor joist overhead safely, or is there a rule on how many cables can be together? And what is the rule if these wires need to cross a metal gas line? <Q> Bunching together is a serious issue. <S> For instance, in EMT conduit, you are allowed only 9 active conductors regardless of pipe size, unless you derate (use larger wire than normal). <S> That means four circuits, or three 3-phase circuits. <S> I notice the multi-cable racks only hold 4 cables. <S> The reason is heat, and you have to design for worst case <S> , you can't armwave it with "it's residential, they'll never all be used at capacity at once. <S> " At least it isn't for you to armwave; Code decides which corners may be cut based on a lot of research and experience. <S> Even then, Code is a bare minimum- common sense also applies. <S> I wish a Code expert would speak up. <A> You are allowed to put 2 lines under 1 staple. <S> The conductors can cross the gas line or run next to it but not secured to the gas line. <S> I must apologize on the staples. <S> I looked up the 3 cases I had and all 3 were rated for 2 cables and are not standard they are long leg.99% of all the staples out there are only rated for 1 NM cable, as 12-3 & 14-3 With ground are usually round only 1 cable is allowed. <S> Here are several examples of cables from the MFG only listing 1 cable 2-3 conductor. <S> example 1 viking . <S> added space to separate links example 2 gardner bender . <S> added space to separate links Example 3 platt search for steel staples .Almost <S> all of these shown give their application as 2 or 3 conductor a single cable. <S> So I was wrong a standard staple is only listed for 1 cable <S> not 2.Any more than 3 current carrying conductors would also require a derate since the hot and neutral are both current carrying if they were attached for a length of more than 24” derating would be required. <A> Electrical Code <S> 110.3.B Installation and Use. <S> Listed or labeled equipmentshall be installed and used in accordance with any instructionsincluded in the listing or labeling. <S> (abide by manufacturer's product intentions & directions) 334.30 Securing and Supporting. <S> Nonmetallic-sheathedcable shall be supported and secured by staples, cable ties,straps, hangers, or similar fittings designed and installed soas not to damage the cable, at intervals not exceeding 1.4 m(41⁄2 ft) and within 300 mm (12 in.) <S> of every outlet box,junction box, cabinet, or fitting. <S> (don't damage the cables & keep flat cables flat when stapling) <S> Avoid hanging wires from or attaching to gas lines, plumbing lines & ductwork. <S> Running over or next to them is fine & normal. <S> Avoid the top picture below as this can splinter dimensional or standard building framing. <S> Keep all wires at least 1-1/2" away from framing edges. <S> You may find the below stackers easier to use than a whole lot of staples. <A> (Commercial and industrial wiring have different rules which could result in a thermal problem.) <S> There is nothing about natural gas or propane lines being near electrical wiring to be concerned about. <S> Properly installed gas pipes inside a home are safe. <S> Same for electrical wires. <S> If you are in a disaster-prone area (earthquakes, tornadoes, hurricane, etc.) <S> there could be additional local requirements or recommendations. <S> Perhaps extra slack in the wire or a barrier of some sort. <A> You asked several questions and you have a lot of responses here <S> but I am hoping to more specifically answer your questions: <S> What is common practice or code when running new electrical lines in a home(15 amp/20 amp) in a basement that feed up to the 1st and 2nd floor of a home? <S> This question is quite vague and I am assuming you are using Type NM cable. <S> The Code compliant practice is to secure them properly and install them in a "neat and workmanlike manner" according to Article 334 of the National Electrical Code. <S> Iggy gave you the section of Article 334 regarding securing and support and some examples of NM cable staples. <S> Is there a rule on how many wires can be run down the same floor joist overhead? <S> In other words, If I need to run 10 new 15amp/20amp lines, can they bunched together and secured to the floor joist overhead safely, or is there a rule on how many cables can be together? <S> Short answer: <S> No there is no limit to the number of wires that can be bunched together. <S> EXCEPT if you are passing through a partition that will be sealed or caulked the wires have to be derated (meaning they can not carry as much current). <S> 334.80 <S> Where more than two NM cables containing two or more current-carrying conductors are installed, without maintaining spacing between the cables, through the same opening in wood framing that is to be sealed with thermal insulation, caulk, or sealing foam, the allowable ampacity of each conductor shall be adjusted in accordance with Table 310.15(B)(3)(a) and the provisions of 310.15(A)(2), Exception, shall not apply. <S> Additionally the cables are normally installed through the joists when the are run perpendicular to the joists unless they larger wires. <S> 334.15(C) <S> In Unfinished Basements and Crawl Spaces. <S> Where cable is run at angles with joists in unfinished basements and crawl spaces, it shall be permissible to secure cables not smaller than two 6 AWG or three 8 AWG conductors directly to the lower edges of the joists. <S> Lastly you asked: <S> And what is the rule if these wires need to cross a metal gas line? <S> There is no "rule" or Code prohibition. <S> NM cable can be run with, or across, gas lines or other metal piping systems. <S> Good luck!
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Flat cables shall not bestapled on edge. In residential applications, house wire should not be running so warm that aggregating many lines together could cause a heat problem. Instead install furring strips to staple into. They should be independently fastened, neither depending upon the other.
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Best way(s) to soundproof interior wall between rooms? I had a few ideas in mind to keep our newborn from waking up our light sleeping toddler sleeping in the adjacent room. I'm open to new suggestions. :-) 1) Blow cellulose from above (unfinished area). I don't know if there is a firewall in the interior wall though so can't tell if the blown in will be blocked by it 2) Rigid foam boards, R-5 stuff available in my hardware store in the newborn's room, painted in something matching the room. 3) Egg crate foam stuck to the wall (seems very unattractive) <Q> The easy and fairly attractive solution is to use sound attenuation panels. <S> Hang them on the walls like you would a picture. <S> You can DIY a similar solution by hanging a large thick tapestry on the wall, with an optional thin piece of foam behind it. <S> If you haven't already done it, carpeting in the room will make a huge difference. <S> This both separates the drywall from the studs to remove base sounds, and the quiet drywall absorbs the higher pitched sounds. <S> However, even after all this work, there are still air ducts and doors that will often transmit sounds. <A> None of those will work well enough for the effort. <S> 3) is a joke from the Hee Haw TV series. <S> 2) won't work at all. <S> 1) will have minimal effect but sound is transmitted by vibration carried through the floor, ceiling, and studs. <S> If you want to do it right, increase the width of the walls by two inches, alternating the studs .... <S> Yeah. <S> Right. <S> Regards, A former radio and TV broadcast engineer <A> The cellulose would be best. <S> But, if the topical application turns out to be the only option. <S> Then, you'll need an absorbing layer between the foam board or the foam won't do much. <S> The below Radiant Barrier (left - 4'x24' $60) is at the Home Improvement stores, the foil face would be taped to the back of the foam board to then sparingly screw that assembly to the wall(s). <S> One other big noise area is the room's door. <S> that before doing anything else . <S> You may find that this is the real noise leaker. <A> I took an old iPod mini and added an ocean surf soundtrack to it that plays on a loop. <S> I then added that to an iHome amplifier base and now have the best sleep machine I have ever owned. <S> Cheapest first alternative. <S> Good luck!
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To completely sound proof the room, you'd see the best results by removing the drywall from at least one side of each wall, and the ceiling if there's living space above, and installing specialized quiet drywall on top of sound attenuation channel that's attached to the studs like furring strips. Or, you can skip the foam & tape 2-layers of the radiant barrier back-to-back. You'll often see these in home theater settings. You'll want to weather-strip (right)
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Metal object encountered when drilling into wall above radiator I was drilling through the wall (above the radiator, but not above any pipes or sockets) and hit something metal. I have drilled a tiny hole in that metal plate. It's not copper, looks silver. What is this? Can't identify what it could be <Q> Stop. <S> You probably hit a metal plate protecting plumbing or wiring behind it. <S> It's there specifically to prevent people like you from drilling through it and electrocuting yourself or causing a flood. <A> Depending on the size of your drill, it might just look like a plate, but its a little piece of architecture that you don't want to hit (mostly for your drill's sake.) <S> I suggest filling in the hole with Spackle, then drilling elsewhere nearby, but only after checking for another stud or metal piece. <S> This can be accomplished with a good strong magnet (sometimes,) but also with a mid-price handheld device called a stud-checker. <S> Happy drilling! <A> I'm glad you noticed & didn't go further. <S> You'll need to drill a hand width away from that area. <S> Of course, if possible find out what it is. <S> If you can't get a visual from an attic or basement, then you can drill a bigger viewing hole away from it to confirm there are utilities being protected by the plate. <S> You'll then need to patch both holes. <A> All of the above responses seem to be spot-on for possibility. <S> Building codes and then material usage in construction vary from region to region. <S> If it is a protective metal plate ( <S> ie - a pipe for water,sewage, or electrical wiring is under this plate) <S> it is a heavy and thick steel, and hard to accidentally punch through. <S> (Unless you have professional type drill bits) <S> I'm betting a steel stud.(Since <S> you did not get a nice shower, trip a circuit breaker, or actually NEED to call a professional :) ) <S> If you're drilling into a wall, maybe you want to hang or mount something on that wall. <S> You would want to find that stud if your place was built with them( or remodeled with an extra wall or two...) <S> It will grip a screw well enough to suspend your item. <S> Find out what that screw or mounting hardware(drywall anchor?) should be. <S> Otherwise <S> Get someone to look at it too, just in case. <S> Better safe than sorry. <S> Luck <A> Thank you all! <S> Think it's the alluminium stud <S> - there are no electrical outlets or pipes anywhere around. <S> It's an internal plasterboard wall. <S> There is nothing on the otherside - just another room (no electrical outlets on that side either). <S> Plus the depth of the new hole is only about 1 cm, logic suggests wires & pipes should be burried deeper than that. <S> The drill bit I was using is for wood, not metal. <S> So I don't think I would have been able to drill a tiny hole with it through a metal plate! <A> You might look on the other side of the wall to see if there's something electrical that has a metal box around all except possibly the front part. <S> Also, check for a heating/air conditioning vent, both on the other side and from above and below.
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: If it took you a bit of effort to push your 'tiny' drillbit through that metal... try somewhere else on the wall. Those use thinner metal than is used for electrical equipment. Always good to ask someone who knows. For example, an electrical outlet, an electrical switch, or a circuit breaker panel. I recommend you stop whatever job you're doing and consult a professional, or at least a handyman. I would first like to congratulate the others for giving good possibilities, but would like to add another: You hit a stud. Use a depth-stop on your drill...drill a hole through a thick block of wood so just enough drill bit is protruding. Use appropriate hardware to mount anything.
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Smelly old paint on walls I decided to paint the downstairs bathroom. A girlfriend insisted on helping and was predetermined on saving me money(so she says, now I think she was trying to sabotage) by bringing me paint that she had left over from a remodel. Well when my brother-in-law opened the paint(by the way it was a I think 5 gal container)he was like "WOW, that smells really bad, like water dripped or had gotten in the container." She swore up and down that it wasn't bad, yada, yada, yada..Now my bathroom smells soooo bad, like mold. Only two walls have been painted. But that's two walls too many. So my question is how and the hell do I get rid the smell, because it's been about three weeks and it still smells. Do I need to strip the paint? I even tried covering it with a new color and you can still smell it. HELP!!!! <Q> Short answer: It will have to air out for weeks to months. <S> Moral of the story: NEVER paint with old sour paint. <S> Good luck! <A> If near a term solution is needed, you could power abrade (electric sander) <S> the paint off. <S> Of course that means it will really stink in process. <S> Then you will have to re-texture the bare surface, paint primer, and paint. <S> It is a fair amount of work, especially if there are obstructions: the worst being a toilet you don't want to remove. <S> But in about two days you can have all the stink gone. <S> Otherwise, alas, you'll have to wait months for the stink to dwindle naturally. <A> Please - take the paint off. <S> Fresh interior latex is much easier to remove than you think. <S> I work with 2-part urethanes... <S> those are hard. <S> I'm not saying it won't be work - it will - <S> but it's your least bad of several options. <S> Others have had this same problem. <S> example <S> example <S> example <S> example <S> example <S> Waiting did not work for them. <S> Heat did not work. <S> They tried painting over with other paint, but struggled to find a sealer that would be effective. <S> When that layer fails (not at once) <S> the you'll have peeling and blistering for years - and that will bring the smell back. <S> I have a project where full stripping is not feasible and <S> we just have to paint it every year to fix the blisters. <S> Seriously, removing the paint now before it cures fully is the path of least pain. <S> I remove latex by keeping it wet (water is its solvent) while scrubbing. <S> I would use the least stiff brush that does the job, so as not to mar the layers below too badly. <S> But I would rather gouge the lower layers than leave any horror paint on the wall. <S> It will make the next layer fall off. <S> You can always resurface the walls flat with sanding primer and power sanding if needed, which it may not.
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It may be possible to heat the room up as hot as you can get it to speed the out-gassing process. With luck the new paint will come off clean. You also don't want to overpaint known-bad paint, because now you have a bad layer.
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Water coming from the cistern is not capable of flushing the commode? Its been months now that our water pressure is not enough to fully flush the commode, every time it must be filled manually or wait until it fills for the second time for a complete flush out. <Q> Flush toilets with the usual non-pressurized water tanks don't need significant water main pressure to function. <S> The depth of the water in the tank is what provides the pressure. <S> Low water main pressure will increase the time to fill the toilet tank, but once it's full the flush process will be the same. <A> Improper flushing often results from minerals clogging up the holes under the rim of the toilet. <S> The usual cure is to clear out the buildup with a muriatic acid treatment . <A> I agree with Daniel Griscom. <S> Get a Plumber or a new toilet or both to save yourself from the below ordeal, which isn't bad <S> it's just experience. <S> The plus is that you'll be able to unclog most any toilet thereafter. <S> As long as the Cistern Tank's dumping its water quickly, then you've got a slow draining problem. <S> A slow draining tank is extremely rare & the only solution would be to replace everything in & attaching the tank. <S> Otherwise, floss the toilet's entire very short run of drain, which you may see embossed on the side of the toilet's bottom section under the tank. <S> You want to get a Drain Auger or turned on Garden Hose into every portion of the toilet's drain while repeatedly flushing...poke, twist & bend with the flushing to hopefully catch the edge of whatever debris. <S> If this has only a slight improvement, then you'll need to remove the toilet & do the same from the other end into the toilet bowl to ensure the toilet's drain is clear. <S> Finally, one main cause of clogs & slow draining is the toilet's connecting pipe & thick wax seal. <S> These can get built-up with debris & that will all need to be removed from the pipe's connecting end with a putty knife. <S> Your hand should fit into the pipe. <S> If the pipe is cast iron, the you'll need to chisel any restricting rust off to full pipe diameter while using a vacuum to retrieve the rust you remove.
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In your case, it's likely there's something wrong with the toilet flushing mechanism, or the drain pipe.
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Noisy exhaust fan starting itself Our bathroom exhaust fan is located on our second floor bathroom. It's the original installed in 1986. Suddenly, it started to make an unbearably loud noise upon operation. So loud that the sound made a downstairs kitchen sink faucet fixture shake. An additional unsettling thing about this fan is that this horrible noise starts up spontaneously. We are not in this bathroom and the sound starts. We think we've discovered a way to curb the horror once it starts: Strongly depress a light switch (which has nothing to do with this fan) --and the noise stops. Please help! This is scaring me! <Q> A good thing to do is, first turn off the breaker, and open the switch box. <S> Check for signs of damage and check/tighten the connections. <A> Bathroom exhaust fans can get lint built up on them so thick it affects there performance. <S> It sounds like when you fan runs it is vibrating badly because the fan is imbalanced. <S> Try removing the trim ring and thoroughly cleaning the fan including the blades. <S> If it comes on without anyone turning it on, it might be that the switch that controls it is going bad. <S> I find it strange that any other switch could somehow affect its operation. <S> Good luck! <A> The most important thing to do, since it sounds like you're not well versed in electricity, etc... is to get a qualified person in there to disconnect (and replace) that fan immediately. <S> Most of them were made by one company who has lost at least one lawsuit that I'm aware of for fires caused by fan failures. <S> There are a number of possibilities for it's phantom operation, which can all be remedied by a decent electrician but get that fan out of there ASAP.
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If the switch that you are depressing is in the same box as the connection (or switch for the fan), then perhaps your pushing is causing wires inside the switchbox to wiggle; if there is a bad connection or short for the fan in the box, the partial current to the fan could cause the motor to make a buzzing noise.
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How often do I need to regrade the ground around my house? I'm a first time homeowner, and when we moved in we were told we'd need to regrade our house. I am deciding whether doing it myself or hiring someone is a better decision, and the following list summarizes my considerations. How often do I need to regrade the ground around my house? If it's every year (yikes!) or even every few years, then I want to do it myself so I can save the money on contractors that I'll need to hire year after year. If it's less frequently (every ~10 years) then I think it's in my budget to hire someone to do it. Any guidance or considerations that you can give me would be very helpful. EDIT: here are some requested pictures. <Q> Regrading isn't typically a recurrent necessity. <S> It may be needed shortly after a home is built, and maybe again a few years later. <S> However, eventually the soil becomes compacted to the same degree that the undisturbed adjacent soil is, and that's more or less the end of the story. <S> Then it's a matter of whether rainwater flows adequately away from the foundation. <A> If neither of those yet, then don't do anything. <S> Otherwise, re-grading is a good deal of work, but quite simple in procedure with just a shovel. <S> Dig a shovel depth trench <S> at least 6-feet away from the house that pitches down toward the street or into the back yard. <S> What comes out of the trench goes against the house & then you widen the trench toward the house while digging more & more shallow to achieve pitching away from the house. <S> The Gas Meter (may be the picture angle), Front & Driveway sides all look good. <S> The patio should be ripped out & redone with a properly pitched concrete slab, re-grading would be part of that job by default. <S> But really, only the AC's side would need to be re-graded at any point or in your lifetime. <S> But, put elbows on your gutter downspouts, they aren't helping matters at all. <A> Generally speaking you should be watching out for any areas next to the foundation where water is pooling due to compaction or erosion, and if this is the case, add some dirt in order to grade it away from you house. <S> But in terms of fully re-grading your lot or doing anything other than a few shovels full of dirt, in most jurisdictions you would require a permit and surveyor drawings in order to do so. <S> Municipalities take grading very seriously as it is how they control water run off. <S> It is something they have planned as part of the overall development. <S> While doing something like adding a raised patio might seem benign to you, it can have serious consequences if it directs water into a neighbours yard as an example. <A> Hmm, judging by the pictures you posted, it doesn't actually look like you need to do a lot of regrading. <S> The only place it appears the lawn slopes towards you house is along the side with the AC unit. <S> Especially if you're near the top of the hill, you aren't getting a lot of runoff. <S> In terms of grading it yourself, it's completely doable, but it's going to be a few weekends of shovel-work, plus re-seeding the lawn. <S> From my experience (working for a landscape contractor a few years, and ownership of one house in the pacific northwest) you'd be better off installing a french/curtain drain along the one side that slopes towards your house, and keeping an eye on any standing water during the rainy season.
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There are no rules of thumb or other guidelines. Simply put, it varies by home, depending on home age, roof design, soil type, contractor technique, climate, ant proliferation, and other factors. Only re-grade if you're getting water intrusion or even a damp musty basement condition.
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How can I repair a textured ceiling without making a mess? I have knocked out a couple walls and never really made it fit right with the ceiling pattern - Is there an easy way to replicate this ceiling texture? Also as time goes on I am noticing that the nails they used to hang the drywall are losing their bite. This is only in the main living area which is completely open now. So I need to probably hit most of the ceiling in this area with a lot of drywall screws. I also have a couple of hairline cracks to fix too but these are rather small and have done that before. So just lots of ceiling issues. If I can get all of the furniture out of these 4 rooms (kitchen, front room, living room, dining room) - and these rooms are all open to each other - what kind of ceiling treatment can I use so that I do not have drywall dust all over my house and something that will deal with the already swirl/sand that I have? (Acoustical texture isn't an option.) <Q> Caulk the hairline cracks. <S> Pick out the nail pop plaster, screw the nail or screw back in with an adjacent screw to hold it in, spackle & prime. <S> Then, re-paint the ceilings with a Sandy Paint or Add Sand to any paint. <S> Roll-on the new paint for everything. <S> But then, go back with a brush to do a 2nd or 3rd coat with a brush. <S> The brush will let you swirl & build-up any flat areas for a pretty perfect match quite easily. <A> you can just spray it with a latex base sand texture coating (like stucco but finer) <S> http://durabond.com/products/plaster-acc/sandex/ <S> you will have someone in your area that makes something similar. <A> Thin a gallon or so of drywall compound at a time in a bucket with the primer till it's a thick but liquid (rollable consistancy). <S> Add a cup full of plaster. <S> Take the roller, soak it in water... ring it out thoroughly and roll on your concoction onto the ceiling. <S> You will then gently use the squeegee to flatten it out and eliminate roller marks. <S> Take your time and go slow... <S> you'll have at least an hour before it starts to set up
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Get a bucket of drywall compound, some "PVA" primer, a 1/2" lambswool roller, a small container of plaster and a "Magic Squeegee" ( a very wide very flexible rubber blade).
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Is it acceptable to run 10-3 wire to a 110V 20A junction box? I have leftover 10/3 wire from a 220V outlet installation. I need to install a 110V outlet and splice to an existing junction box. Using the existing 10/3 wire will save me a trip to the store. At most, there will be 10 ft of wire from the junction box to the outlet. Can I do it, or do I need buy 12/2? <Q> Totally legit. <S> You are allowed to oversize wire anytime you want. <S> Breaker amperage is determined by the smallest wire in your circuit. <S> If any of it is 14ga, you must breaker for 15A. <S> You are also limited by devices, but common "15A" outlets are allowed in 20A circuits. <S> You may get into physical fit issues trying to get 10 gauge wire onto terminals meant for 12 gauge. <S> That should fit fine in a common 2-1/8 x 4" box if there isn't anything else in there. <S> But I recommend going for the deepest box you got, because those 10ga wires will be stiff and hard to stuff in the box. <S> Cap off the extra wire with a wire-nut, tape or both; no need to strip it but its copper core can't be permitted to hit anything metal. <S> You might also wrap the outlet along the edge with tape a few times, covering the exposed side terminals. <A> Legally, ethically, and according to electrical code, #10 wire is more than adequate for a 20 amp circuit. <S> However, it will be substantially harder to work 10/3 into place and secure. <S> Even a single #10 wire is at least 50% stiffer and harder to bend than a #12. <S> A bundle of 4 of them will be a major pain-in-the-you-know-what. <S> Also, it is possible that a run-of-the-mill outlet will not accommodate #10 wires. <S> If you have to pigtail #12 to the #10, you could well run out of space inside the outlet box. <S> And probably patience to make it work. <S> It might be faster to run to the store and get a suitable length of 12/2. <A> If the device is not suitable (listed) for #10 wire, you will need to attach #12 pigtails. <S> The larger wire, extra conductor and possible pigtails may make the box rather crowded. <A> Since you say you'd prefer 12/2, I'd guess you are looking to install a 15 amp outlet from an existing junction box running a 15A circuit. <S> If this is the case, 10/3 should be fine provided the circuit will not be overloaded and everything else is done mindfully and to code. <S> Put a wire nut securely on the extra wire (RED I assume) at each junction or back box <S> so it doesn't touch something and become energized. <S> Then, hook up ground, hot, and neutral as normal. <A> It is legal, because the 20A breaker will protect that 10-3 wire. <S> But it is confusing. <S> Someone 10 years from now might think that the circuit is a 30A circuit and replace the receptacle with a 30A receptacle and overload the circuit upstream. <S> And the extra unused wire is confusing too. <S> And working with 10-3 is much harder than 12-2. <A> A few people mention that receptacles (and switches) can only 'handle' 14 or 12 gauge wire. <S> But that would only be for bare wire ends (and most likely solid wire). <S> Of course, if you're going this luxurious route, you'll probably already be using EMT raceways and THWN/THHN <S> stranded wire anyway... <S> Obviously, if using larger conductors, larger (or more) conduits and boxes may be needed as well <S> (btw, always install a larger-sized raceway, if you can fit and/or afford it -- nothing is more frustrating than to need to run another circuit down an existing conduit, only to find that it's already maxed-out at the initial installation).
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If 10 gauge wire is used, it should be stranded and lugs used for attaching to receptacle screw terminals... In fact it's overkill because you have an extra conductor (3 plus ground instead of 2 plus ground) and the wire is larger gauge than you need (10 AWG instead of 12 AWG). So if all the other wire is 12 gauge, you may breaker for 20A. At worst you can pigtail a few inches of smaller gauge wire onto the outlet, but the "smallest wire" rule applies here. Even if you think you can get everything into the box, you should review the box fill requirements in the electrical code. , you will need it in the future. I suggest you go buy a big roll 12-2
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How unhealthy is arc welding? I have a few repairs to make that would necessitate some welding. I could do it differently, for example with pop rivets, but I take this opportunity to learn welding. However I'm a bit concerned about the unhealthy part of the process, in particular breathing carcinogen fumes. Is there a way to mitigate those risks ? I'm talking specifically about: Shielded metal arc welding , a.k.a stick welding. <Q> Breathing the vapors is not a good thing. <S> Especially with galvanized metal. <S> It is important to have proper ventilation. <S> Many times when working indoors I use a small fan pointed above the work to move the fumes away and not disturb my shielding gas (wire welding & TIG). <S> When stick welding the fan really has little affect. <S> Breathing the "smoke" caused by welding can cause serious lung problems as it is full of vaporized metal. <S> I work with guys my age that have been professional welders for 30+ years and other than galvanized work they never use a fan or respirator. <S> They laugh at me for my little fan. <S> Welding is a great skill to have and can save you thousands (or if like me <S> you might get bigger and bigger units. <S> On my farm I have repaired all kinds of stuff that would have been recycled if I did not know how to weld. <S> I usually grind the paint so there are less bad things to breathe and use a small 4" fan that has a magnetic base. <A> <A> Engineered controls, such as local ventilation (a unit which removes the fumes from your breathing zone and ejects them away from the area) which can move 100 lineal feet per minute across the weld space, are preferred for metals, rod, and flux that could generate hexavalent chrome fumes / particulates (think cancer ) . <S> This would be for any type of stainless steel or alloy containing chrome. <S> For welding involving carbon steel only, general dilution ventilation is acceptable; basically a fan pulling air from the area, allowing fresh air to enter and dilute the fumes. <S> A 1/2 face respirator with P100 cartridges should always be worn. <S> For practical purposes, and as described in the answer by @Joel Keene, the most basic and easily used control would be a respirator with P100 cartridges. <S> Even without ventilation, a respirator would help a lot. <S> A 1/2 face would be what you would want, to facilitate the use of your welding hood or goggles.
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Although proper ventilation is probably the most effective defense against breathing metal fumes, I believe that P100 respirator cartridges (the soft pink discs that fit onto a standard half- or full-faced respirator) will remove most of the nasty components of welding fumes, assuming you're willing to wear a respirator while welding.
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Dry wall anchor won't hold I have a baby gate on the top of the stair. The dry wall anchors used held up for a couple of months, but now it came out loose. What type of anchor do I need to use for this? <Q> They're inexpensive and included in many products because of that, but they aren't good for much, and wouldn't be up to the task of holding something a toddler will be climbing on (you know they will...) <S> Look for products that spread out or lock into place when they enter the wall. <S> The name of the product might have the word "toggle" or "lock" or "twist". <S> There are several brands. <S> Here is one random example: <S> For the strongest hold (and also a larger hole that must be drilled in the wall) <S> I use them as a last resort because I've had great luck with plastic anchors and the hole <S> these leave is large. <S> Of course for something as important as a stair gate, it might be worth it. <A> Most things that get regularly manipulated should not be hung with hollow-wall anchors. <S> Eventually they pull out or the wallboard disintegrates. <S> I'd install either some 1x4 wooden rails spanning between studs or a piece of finished plywood to which I'd mount the gate. <S> Run construction or finish screws about 1" into the studs. <S> Imagine the typical backer board for a coat hook rack for an example of what I'm describing. <S> If a stud is very near you could use a 1x6 or 1x8 <S> vertically, also. <S> Later, the holes will be much easier to fix than the large ones you'll have with your current solution. <A> EZ anchors are good but toggle bolts are better. <A> Firstly you need a fixing the extends some distance each side of the hole, GripIt is one such fixing that is easy to use. <S> You then needs lots of fixings that are spaced out, therefore I would be looking to fix a bit of 3”by1” to the wall <S> the full height of the gate using say 4 spread out fixings, then screw the gate hinges to the wood. <S> By having both the bottom and the top hinges fixed to the same bit of wood, you will get less movement on the fixings. <S> Even better if you can find the studs and fixed to these, assuming that there are studs, e.g <S> the plaster board <S> my just be glued to the brick. <A> I know you have already selected a correct answer but <S> these toggle bolts are the correct ones to use. <S> They are very strong and they will allow you to take the gate on and off without diminishing their effectiveness.
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What you are using are the most basic drywall anchors available. Toggle bolts are hard to beat.
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What could cause a 3-bulb fixture to blink when turned off? Two new lightbulbs(energy efficient spiral) blink rapidly when I turn OFF the switch for the 3 bulb fixture in my kitchen. House built in 1912ish. My house but previously had tenants. They only had 1 bulb in, so probably occurred for them, too. I'm worried about turning it out now. Wiring internally, probably wasn't updated since 1940's , when house converted to duplex. <Q> Is your light fixture is controlled by a dimmer switch? <S> If so, it might not be capable of properly dimming the more efficient light bulbs. <S> I had a ceiling light fixture on a dimmer switch. <S> When I changed from incandescent bulbs to LEDs, the light would blink with the switch turned off. <S> Not dimmed, off. <S> I replaced the dimmer with a simple on/off switch and it works as expected now. <A> I would suspect you have a bad switch. <S> Try replacing it and see if that cures your problem. <S> The age of your wiring is fine. <S> The lifespan of the insulation on your wiring from the 40's should be good for several more decades if it has seen normal use. <S> Insulation gets degraded from overloading circuits that causes extra heat in the wire. <S> Normal lighting circuits are very lightly loaded. <S> It is the receptacle circuits that would fail first. <S> Good luck! <A> Fluorescents are able to be powered by electomagnetic fields... not sure if that is happening here, but it is possible. <S> Tesla actually created fluorescents to be powered without wires. <S> The solution is to solder/install a bleeder resistor to the cfl. <A> There may be enough current from the capacitive coupling in the the wires to allow the bulb to flash. <S> This is more likely with a fixture where the power is fed into the fixture and long wires run off to the switch. <S> Your best bet may be to try another type of bulb (another brand or LED bulb). <S> There are better electronic solutions, but the compliance with code may not be acceptable.
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Another possibility (if you have an illuminated wall switch): When an illuminated switch is off, the (CFL) bulb is the neutral for the light of the wall switch, causing a tiny current to flow through the CFL bulb. Perhaps some old wiring in the house doesn't have insulation or the insulation is poor; or maybe the house is located near some larger power lines (outside).
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Should I set wood fence posts in quikrete with no supplemental water? Setting wood fence post---I've heard to set wood fence posts using quikrete dry, allowing it get moisture from the ground. Is this a good idea? <Q> No. <S> Unless you live in a swamp, there won't be enough moisture, and even if you do it won't be mixed with the cement properly. <S> The concrete will be dry, crumbly, and have no strength. <S> Just mix it like the directions say. <A> Many vendors do recommend pouring the concrete in dry, but then they advise to pour a specific amount of water on top to immediately set, not to allow rain and ground moisture to cure the concrete. <S> This lets you skip mixing in the wheelbarrow or bucket and then shoveling the wet concrete in with a lot more cleanup of the tools required. <S> For strength, the latter method of mixing first and pouring in wet should give you a stronger result over the dry pour method since the moisture and aggregate will be more thoroughly mixed. <A> Personally I don't like concreting in wooden posts, because eventually they will rot and have to be replaced. <S> Getting the old concrete out is then difficult. <S> Ideally, concrete in a short concrete fence post and use coach screws to fix your wooden posts to these. <S> The concrete will never rot, your wooden posts can be set off the ground, so will last almost indefinitely. <S> If you must concrete in wooden posts, make sure you buy them properly pressure treated and at least 4" square to survive rot longer. <S> Like someone else said, put a rock in the bottom of the hole. <S> This helps keep everything level. <S> I also jam small rocks either side of the post to get it square, leaving plenty of space for the dry concrete to pass. <S> In the UK, we have a product called Postcrete. <S> Having looked at Quikrete, it seems almost identical. <S> Both are specifically designed to be used without mixing, but do require water. <S> Someone else mentioned putting water in the hole first. <S> This is how Postcrete is used. <S> A video and instructions for Quikrete is at: https://www.quikrete.com/athome/video-setting-posts.asp <S> Instructions for Postcrete are at: http://www.tarmac.com/media/756324/postcrete-product-data-sheet.pdf <S> I imagine following either instructions for either product will produce good results. <S> Neither of them are as strong as mixing proper concrete from scratch. <S> Particularly note the limitations quoted for Postcrete: "for the purposes of fixing domestic posts, for fixing decking posts, rotary washing lines and small/medium sized gateposts (less than 1.0m width gate).Postcrete may not be used for general concreting, screeds, mortar, grout or render. <S> If a particular compressive strength is required, Postcrete should not be used. <A> I have set hundreds (maybe thousands) of wooden fence posts with dry concrete with satisfactory results (0 fails). <S> I've only done this in an areas with moist soil though, so this method might not work everywhere (desert?). <S> I also like to put a large stone on the bottom first, if it's handy; and if I have a little water, I add it to the hole before pouring dry contrete (although it may not make any difference). <S> For larger holes (or for cable anchors) I sometimes add concrete, then water, mix/tamp with a stick, then add more contrete and water. <A> It is a good idea if heavy mixing and shoveling aren't in your best interest. <S> Moisture is absorbed and distributed very well by capillary action and other mechanisms, and the concrete will eventually cure as well as if you had mixed it yourself. <S> It will take a while in some cases, so the drawback is that the post may move in the meantime. <A> It doesn't take that much effort to mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow before dumping it into the post hole. <S> If you want the result to be the best result possible, then do all that's necessary to make it that way. <A> Do what the bag says. <S> Some products, such as this one recommend you pour the concrete into the hole dry. <S> Optionally <S> this foam-based product is lighter-weight and will be easier to remove when the wood invariably rots away. <A> I sent my post 10 years ago in dry mix with no water. <S> Concrete set up just fine and the fence is still plumb. <S> The weed eater may eat through the post before they fail
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Using dry concrete is very helpful in places where a hose is not available and where tool cleanup is not going to occur within the next few hours.
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Can a 220V AC to 12V DC adapter be plugged into 120V mains? I ordered a piece of equipment with a small low-RPM electric motor that came with DC adapter. It's marked ANGELMODEL SG-4805DC 12VAC ADAPTORHA 10025-2003AAC 220V 16VA50/60HzDC 12V 850mA Can it be plugged into 120V mains (safely, and without loss of performance)? When I look around on the internet, I see some adapters that state the input like INPUT: 100-240V but this one does not give a range. <Q> It would not be a good idea to try to plug it into 120V. <S> Internally, that adapter is likely to have one of 2 options. <S> Option 1: <S> A simple transformer/rectifier/capaitor arrangement. <S> In this case, since the transformer windings ratio is fixed, you should expect to get about 6.5V out (12/220*120). <S> Although supplying a low voltage to your motor isn't likely to do much (if any) damage, it certainly won't perform as you'd like it to. <S> It will probably also be much easier to stall - which could lead to some damage to the motor and/or adapter. <S> Option 2: A switch-mode power supply. <S> In this case, the incoming mains AC is rectified & smoothed to high(ish)-voltage DC and this DC is then 'switched' through a much smaller transformer at a much higher frequency than the 50/60Hz mains (typically many 10s of kHz). <S> These circuits can be designed to operate from a very wide range of input voltages, but this is not always the case as it would likely increase the cost & complexity of the circuit. <S> If your adapter was designed for a wide input range if would probably be marked as such. <S> The fact that your adapter's specs include a 'VA' rating lead me to strongly suspect that its an 'Option 1', since transformers are rated in VA. <S> You should be able to source a suitable replacement locally. <S> The specs you should be most concerned with are the output voltage (12V) and current (no less than 850mA - more is ok). <A> You should assume that it will not. <A> The voltage transformation (from a transformer) is a matter coils/winds in the inductor. <S> 240V -- <S> > 12V means that the transformer has 20 coils in the primary winding for every 1 coil in the secondary winding. <S> If you plug your transformer into 120V, I expect that this transformer will have 6V output. <A> No. <S> Some types of adapters are multi-voltage, but if so, they tend to brag it. <S> The multi-voltage type uses electronic switching instead of a heavy transformer, so they tend to feel unnaturally light, compared to the dense transformer units you are accustomed to. <S> If a transformer is involved, it won't be multi-voltage.
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If the marking on the adapter does not give a range of input voltages then you cannot assume that it will work at a voltage so much lower than the rated voltage.
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What can fiberglass insulation NOT touch? I have some rolls of 15" R-13 insulation that I am planning on installing in my floor joists to help sound proof my basement ceiling. Is there anything that the insulation can't touch? I know that the lighting has to be rated to touch the insulation but what about pipes/wiring? <Q> This is pretty late for the op, but for anyone else that comes across this threat. <S> Resilient channel is extremely easy to short circuit, and there are numerous examples for installs gone wrong with sheetrock falling. <S> You want hat channel with the appropriate amount of clips to actually hold the weight of the sheetrock. <S> Just a home theatre enthusiast here, but I have used their products in our first house. <S> Check out the soundproofing company website for general guidelines. <S> Pink or yellow fluffy will keep the the joist bays from becoming a drum. <S> Using 5/8 type x sheetrock will give weight. <S> "Hat channel" with the basic clips is all that's needed to break the connection. <S> Double sheetrock with green glue works as a dampener <S> I like the idea of rockwool instead of fluffy for moisture in our situation, but in a dry space it does virtually nothing better than pink/ <S> yellown fluffy insulation to stop the drum situation. <S> Hope this helps. <A> It doesn't matter to piping. <S> As a rule, piping likes insulation. <S> Although for cold piping, condensation may be an issue; insulation can hold that water and cause mold and mildew. <S> It's an issue with electrical, because some types of wire need to be able to cool, and they can't do that covered in insulation, and this has caused house fires. <S> I am hoping some of the electrical-code experts who know more about this area of practice will chime in. <A> Typically you want the basement insulation installed with the paper (vapor barrier) facing the heated part of the home. <S> However, if you will be spending a little more time in the basement, you will want to do this differently. <S> You will most likely want to use a foam board toward the house, then turn the insulation over so that the paper is facing down toward the basement. <S> But if you are going to finish the basement and use it as a proper living space (and finish the ceiling with drywall), then you should not insulate the ceiling at all. <S> You'll need to insulate the walls of the basement, and buy some soundproofing foam for the ceiling. <S> With all that in mind, cables (wires) should be exposed if possible (keep the wires cool). <S> But pipes are more efficient when insulated (less heat loss). <S> Oh, and technically, hydrofluoric acid will react with (fiber) glass. <A> Have you considered mounting sheetrock on the ceiling using resilient channel? <S> Perhaps in addition to whatever insulation you put in the ceiling. <S> The resilient channel will hold the sheetrock off of the joists. <S> Since the sheetrock doesn't touch the wood, sound doesn't transmit directly from the framing to the sheetrock. <S> Be sure to talk to somebody and/or watch some videos. <S> You want to screw the sheetrock to the channel between the joists. <S> Otherwise, you'll end up driving screws clear through the channel, into the joist, and acoustically coupling your sheetrock to your joists, defeating the purpose of the channel.
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Moisture from inside air can condense and become trapped in the insulation during cold winter months leading to mold, especially at rim joists or skirts (paper facing outside).
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Painting oil base over latex paint using a latex primer Repainting my shed (wood siding/trim), the prior owners left behind old paint. The paint they left was oil base, so I went out and bought oil base paint. But I'm concerned that they possibly repainted using latex paint. I read that you can determine the paint type by rubbing the old paint with a Q-tip dipped in alcohol, if paint come off it means you have latex. I did that and the paint came off. So here are my questions: Is there a better way to determine if my shed has oil base or latex? If my shed has latex can I use a water base primer over the latex and then top coat it with the oil base paint I bought? Am I better off just buying new latex paint? <Q> Alkyd over latex is touch-and-go <S> - well, it works or it doesn't. <S> That depends on several things. <S> First, is the latex paint new? <S> If it's less than a year old, forget it - <S> it will not be happy being overcoated with an alkyd (oil based) paint. <S> Second, you can do an adhesion test. <S> If it passes the adhesion test, you are all set - you can use that paint. <S> Google's not much help here because everybody wants to sell you elaborate paint-test equipment. <S> You only need a razor blade, packing tape, and a cotton ball. <S> And this procedure explains it . <S> The test is fairly over-wrought, but you can shortcut down to what matters to you. <S> I've bolded the parts that I'd do. <S> Find an area which is concealed and won't show too badly, but is intact. <S> Make a cross-hatch of razor cuts through the first few coats of paint. <S> Clean it carefully. <S> Don't leave any soap residue. <S> Do a tape test <S> : stick tape firmly to the crosshatch area, and pull it off, folding the tape back nearly 180 as you pull it off (not straight out). <S> These first few steps are documented in this video . <S> Also it's better to use packing tape. <S> Tape a cotton-ball to the cross-hatched area, and wet it in the paint's reducer (i.e. paint thinner). <S> Use very long runs of tape, as the thinner may try to dissolve the tape goo. <S> Wait 30 minutes, remove it and see if the paint has softened or dissolved. <S> Wait til it dries. <S> Do the tape yank test again. <S> Sand, wipedown and prep the crosshatch area <S> same as you plan to prep the house. <S> Paint it with that paint. <S> Wait til it dries. <S> Look for problems. <S> Do the tape yank test again . <A> Actually a rag with acetone would be better for testing old paint... <S> it would wipe latex off but not oil based paint. <S> Added: If it wiped off with alcohol... then yeah, you'll probably end up getting more latex. <S> Also, be aware that they might have covered up lead based paint. <A> I would say with very high probability that you have latex after the swab test - 98%+. <S> Easy way to test latex paint... boiling water. <S> If you hit the same area with boiling water a few times the latex paint will get soft. <S> It is pretty obvious and usually you can do this without permanent damage - stop as soon as you see it getting soft and retaining water. <S> on painting you just have to read the instructions. <S> Almost all oil based primers are meant to go over latex. <S> For sure if it is metal. <S> repainting your shed, if you don't take off old paint you are reliant on that paints current bond for the top layer. <S> You are hoping that the top layer completely protects the bottom layer. <S> I am not telling you to scrape off old paint because sometimes that just isn't worth it <S> but I am saying you might want to be generous with the amount of paint you use. <A> You could wash the shed down and allow it to dry completely, then apply an oil-base primer to all surfaces. <S> Allow sufficient amount of time for that primer coat to dry then you can use two coats of latex paint to finish. <S> Testing the existing coating won't be necessary if you use this method. <S> Removing dirt and grime from surface is key.
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I would use an oil base for anything exposed like a shed.
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Baseboard meeting at top of corner but not bottom Removed 3" and installing 4" baseboard. The inner corners meet at the top but gap at the bottom ( sheet rock taper is at the bottom and wondering if that's the problem) (have checked the saw and can't think of anything else). Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!Debbie <Q> Baseboard should be installed using cope joints, not miters, for this exact reason. <S> Some builders request that the drywall taping crew fill the edge channel on the drywall sheets along the floor to keep things more square, but this still doesn't resolve the issue of boards tightening outward when fastened, which very often results in open miters. <S> Coping , along with a slightly tensioned installation (cut 1/16" to 1/8" long, nail the ends first), almost always results in tight inside corners. <S> This is crucial when working with natural wood, where fillers don't result in a quality appearance. <A> Easiest solution is to take two test pieces and see which wall needs to be addressed. <S> Then drive a screw at the base in or out. <S> Check test pieces until they fit tight. <S> The screw keeps the bottom of the base from kicking in. <A> In addition, the corner tape is sometimes a little thick down low. <S> You might want to carve this away below the top line of the trim. <S> the bottom to prevent it from kicking in. <S> Alternately, you could only nail the top of the trim in the corner. <S> This isn't the sturdiest solution, but it works reasonably well. <A> assuming you saw is square and true, thus, so are your joints, do the following (assuming its painted trim, and not finished wood) 1) make the joint. <S> shim the top and/or bottom of each piece to get the corner to be tight top and bottom. <S> glue and nail the baseboards. <S> 2) inject latex caulking or drywall compound (if you have a sausage gun) into the top edge of the baseboard. <S> put enough in that its protruding a little bit from the joint. <S> 3) using a flexible 1 inch wide putty knife, place the 1 inch edge against the wall, and the blade vertical. <S> pull gently along the top of the trim until the filler starts to build up on the blade. <S> wipe off with a sponge and repeat. <S> do the whole piece this way. <S> if you do it carefully enough, you will have a perfect little square edged bead of filler that will dry to look like part of the trim. <S> 4) touch up the trim paint on to the bead of filler. <A> Yes you want to cope , it is the best way to get good corners. <S> Harry V got it right in his answer. <S> I found that great tip in this article in family handyman magazine on just this issue. <S> The whole article is full of great stuff. <S> I subscribe to the magazine and always find useful info.
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One solution is to shim (cardboard drywall shims would work) There's frequently a taper on the bottom of the drywall where it meets the floor.
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GFCI receptacle and 3-way switches I have replaced a bathroom outlet with a GFCI. The first outlet from the circuit breaker is the bathroom outlet. The circuit then goes to a switched light outdoors, a switched light to a hallway, then to 3-way switches for kitchen ceiling lights. When I power on the circuit the bathroom outlet, the outside light, and the hallway light all work correctly. When I turn on the kitchen lights from either switch, the GFI trips. The power into the GFCI outlet is connected to the LINE, the output is connected to the LOAD side. Is it possible to have the 3-way switches for the kitchen lights work properly with this GFCI receptacle? Thanks <Q> Do not ignore the problem. <S> Track it down and repair it. <S> The reason GFCI's or circuit breakers trip is because something is broke (technical term). <S> This is your first sign of a problem. <S> Ignore it at your own, and your family's, peril. <S> Good luck! <A> The kitchen light has a ground fault. <S> That's why it trips the GFCI. <S> It may not have anything to do with being a 3-way switch. <S> Good chance <S> somebody did something dumb in the wiring, like use the ground as the neutral return for that light (maybe they didn't have enough wires, <S> what with all the messenger wires). <S> You might want to look into that. <S> The other option is just to ignore the problem and remove the GFCI protection from those lights. <S> This means you will connect nothing to the "LOAD" side of the GFCI. <S> Put 9" pigtails on the "LINE" side of the GFCI, then wire-nut all the blacks and all the whites together in the box. <A> It's illegal as per the NEC to have a bathroom circuit leave the bathroom unless it's to anther bathroom outlet, and then it can only carry the GFCI's in multiple bathrooms.... <S> No lights or any other uses, so this discussion is starting off badly and will end badly if you ignore the electrical codes <A> If the outlet is tripping for one there is a short to ground making the outlet, and everything after that outlet lose power. <S> I would put bathroom outlets on their own circuit and rec I protect those, and then the other switches on another circuit, but find that fault first or you will trip the circuit breaker. <S> -Cjwntaw
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The way a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupted) receptacle (outlet) works is by tripping when there is a ground fault. They should work just fine on GFCI whether connected to 3-ways or not. If the kitchen light(s) are tripping the GFCI then there is a problem in one of the lights. The next sign could be someone hurt or a fire. It is possible for the 3-way switches to run on the load side, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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How to isolate street noise from the garden? I am helping a friend rebuilding an house he recently bought. One of the issues with it is that he only has a front garden and its in a very busy street, with cars. It would be nice to reduce that noise. Are there any "hard" solutions, preferably with good aesthetics, that may help to break the noise? Are bushes a good solution or should he use something else? <Q> Foliage won't do much unless it's very dense and a fairly wide strip--say 50 feet thick or more. <S> The problem is likely that there are other homes nearby, which will reflect sound from several directions. <S> You may not be able to accomplish significant noise abatement with that consideration. <S> As they say in real estate, the three most important assets of a property are location, location, and location. <S> This is a case in point. <S> My current home has a highway a few hundred yards away, and we hear it almost constantly. <S> Eventually our ears tend to become accustomed to ambient sound <S> and it's less of an annoyance. <S> More information <A> Yeah a solid wall will be best, but for what it's worth, if you are considering plants, go hedges. <S> Besides hedges, generally, look for evergreens so that the sound will be blocked in winter, too. <S> I think bamboo is also good, but it usually requires a lot of maintenance because it likes to spread. <S> Also a water fountain (maybe for a koi pond) can help drown out some noise. <A> Reducing the road noise when you're in the garden is more or less impossible in this situation. <S> Chalk it up to poor urban planning that this is even a problem to begin with. <S> Huh, maybe "planning" is part of the problem… <S> Anyway, there's at least hope for blocking the sound for people inside the house. <S> Adding more insulation is virtually guaranteed to help, especially insulation that is more "massive" than fiberglass batts are: things like mineral wool batts or dense-packed cellulose in the stud cavities, and mineral wool boards, or polyiso foam boards outboard of them on the outside. <S> Making another part of the all (preferably the interior <S> ) thicker and more massive helps too, but that's hard with typical crappy stud frame construction. <S> However a version of this could be accomplished by thickening up the drywall, or using denser, 5/8" fire-rated drywall.
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Instead, you'll need to look to solid-panel fencing to block and deflect sound energy.
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Can I install a hardwood floor in the kitchen? I don't know if I can install a hardwood floor in my kitchen. What would you recommend ? Thank you so much Camille <Q> Sure. <S> But it's a bad idea, because kitchens are wet and have people walking around in them all the time. <S> A wood floor will scratch and wear quickly, and be exposed to conditions that can encourage warping, rot, or mold. <S> So ideally you want something durable and not affected by water, and probably something that's attractive, too. <S> That pretty much leaves tile, which, incidentally enough, is why most kitchens are tiled nowadays. <A> Yes of course you can install a hardwood floor in your kitchen, you just have to wipe up any spillages and water quickly and also look at getting the correct maintenance carried out in that area more frequently. <A> But, vinyl and linoleum don't have the sophisticated look of hardwood... <S> by sophisticated, of course, I mean expensive.
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You can install a hardwood floor in the kitchen, but the high traffic and damage caused by dropped foods make vinyl a better choice because vinyl is water resistant and it is physically softer, resulting in fewer broken dishes, and it is much less expensive and easier to replace or cover than refinishing a hardwood floor.
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Joint Compound was too dry, now what I'm finishing a small area of drywall, using the joint compound you mix with water, 20 minute open time. I believe my second coat was too dry, as it didn't go on smoothly. Can I just add the next coat on top? Maybe sand a little first to get off the big bumps. Any tips for consistency to mix it too? Thanks! <Q> It looks like you have enough joint compound on that to sand it down already... <S> but I can't be sure from a picture. <S> Yes, if you are going to apply more joint compound (I like to call it mud), you should probably sand that, or at least use a damp towel to knock down the really rough spots. <S> If you aren't familiar with the right consistency, buy some fresh mud and compare your consistency. <S> And you generally want to apply joint compound in an upward motion whenever possible... <S> it just helps. <A> its hard to tell from the photo and description, but your mix looks poor (bubbles and chunks). <S> always add cold, cold water to the bucket first, then powder. <S> mix to a thin slurry <S> and then add a little more at a time until you get the consistency you want (a little thicker than cake batter <S> - should be just stiff enough to not slump on its own, but right at the edge of flowing). <S> dont mix at too high of a speed and keep the mixer head inside the mud to avoid pulling air bubbles in to the mud. <S> and dont add powder after the first mixing session. <S> like ben said, put your mud on a hawk or hand pan and never scrape off into the clean mud to avoid trapping debris. <S> also, try to apply your mud with a sharp edged trowel or knife (with hooked edges if possible). <S> do not use the 2x2 concrete slab you obviously used here to apply the mud. <A> It is hard to tell if your mix was even poor. <S> I would guess it is <S> but honestly you put the layer down so unevenly that it is hard to tell. <S> If you say it was too dry then go with that <S> - should have the texture like moist, fluffy mash potatoes. <S> Two tips here: if your mud look like this after it dries it isn't the end of the world. <S> This is basically what I get when I hire a new kid doing drywall. <S> You simply grab your putty knife and scrape the hell out of this. <S> This corner would take 15-20 seconds - you need to scrape off any high points, bumps, and if the drywall-to-mud is too thick. <S> You would not sand this by any means. <S> after you need to lay a smooth coat down. <S> I think you may be using too small of a knife for this layer. <S> To me it looks like you are trying to make two swoops with a 6" knife when you should be doing one with a 10-12" knife. <A> Looks like you are ready to sand a little and continue. <S> Especially for small areas, I just buy premixed joint compound. <S> And as Ben said, never, ever put the working mud back in with the new mud. <S> Take some clean compound out, put it in a mud pan (or at least something with a sharp edge), use it and then throw the remainder away. <A> 100% Agree with all these answers. <S> Never put, what I like to call dirty mud back in the bucket, always use cold water, Or I use Dawn liquid soap along with water <S> , It really makes it glide on smooth. <S> And with any mixture when spreading mud, you want it a little thicker than pancake batter. <S> The longer you mix it the better. <S> No clumps and as you use the mud scrape the residual mud left on the bucket walls back down into the bottom <S> so it wont dry up and mess up the entire mixture. <S> use your sheetrock trowel or scraper and run it across and knock down any big hunks that are dry, sand it down even if its not perfect, drywall mud is made to be done in multiple steps, to much will result in cracks. <S> Less is always more and it will dry so much quicker. <S> Hope this helps..
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Also, a couple more tips: don't scrape your putty knife (trowel or whatever) off into your bucket of unused mud, just throw it away, because inevitably, you will put little chunks of stuff back into the fresh joint compound, making it difficult to apply smoothly. you can use a heat gun or a fan to speed up the dry time if you're in a hurry to get it done.
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How should I nail blocking? I am struggling to efficiently add blocking to 16" stud bays when I can't end nail through the other side of the stud. I have a full-size nailer, a palm nailer, and a hammer or two--but not a lot of experience with any of these. What are your tricks? <Q> Since you have a palm nailer, use that. <S> However, I think it is worth mentioning that in lieu of a palm nailer, an electric screw driver, (which is more commonly owned by DIY folks than a nail gun), is easier to use in this situation than a regular hammer and nails. <S> Edit <S> : Please excuse me; for some reason, I thought you were having space issues (I misread). <S> As everyone else said, use the regular nail gun. <A> Cut the blocks <S> so they fit tight. <S> Get them into a spot where they're about 1/4 inch from where you want, because when the nail gun goes off it will push. <S> Do one toenail through about 1 1/2 inches of the block into the stud. <S> Fine tune it with your hammer and then do the rest of the nails. <S> Support the other side of the block with the handle of your hammer if you have problems with them moving too much. <S> Do every other one first, so you don't have to toenail them all. <A> There's no problem whatsoever with angling your framing gun nails slightly to face nail through the studs and into the ends of the blocks. <S> Do this if you prefer the blocking to be on a single line for sheathing seams or whatever. <S> Otherwise, stagger them on a centerline as Ben Welborn suggests and again face nail them with the framing gun.
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Use the full size nail gun. Oh, and the way to nail them in is to stagger the blocks.
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Is framing with screws legal? A friend used trim head screws for ALL of the 2x4 framing (including the outer walls) of his 2400 sq. ft. house. The house uses 8x8s to carry the load; none of the 2x4 framing is load bearing. The inspector did not see a problem with it (but maybe she didn't even see the screws). Edit- the picture below shows a similar (post and beam) style of building. The original building was a wood/furniture shop (not commercial); it was erected about 20 years ago (±5 years). The old exterior walls were removed (I don't know anything about them); the new walls are 2x4 construction with trim head screws, including the exterior walls. The friend is a maintenance guy... not an engineer. Is it built to code? Would it be correct to assume that (at least) the outer walls are in danger of windy conditions and earthquakes? <Q> According to Table R602.3(1) of the International residential code (IRC), you have to use two 16d ( <S> 3 1/2" x 0.135") fasteners to end nail the top or sole plate to a stud. <S> If the studs were toe nailed to the sole plate, then either three 8d (2 1/2" x 0.133") or two 16d (3 1/2" x 0.135") fasteners would be required. <S> International Residential Code 2012 <S> Chapter 6 Wall Construction Section R602 Wood Wall Framing R602.3 Design and construction. <S> Exterior walls of wood-frame construction shall be designed and constructed in accordance with the provisions of this chapter and Figures R602.3(1) and R602.3(2) or in accordance with AF&PA’s NDS. <S> Components of exterior walls shall be fastened in accordance with Tables R602.3(1) through R602.3(4)... <S> If by some chance these screws are equivalent to 16d nails, then they should be acceptable. <S> However, I doubt they're equivalent, and therefore should not be used. <S> There's no specific fastener schedule for interior nonbearing walls, while interior load-bearing walls are required to be framed the same as exterior walls. <S> R602.4 Interior load-bearing walls. <S> Interior load-bearing walls shall be constructed, framed and fireblocked as specified for exterior walls. <S> R602.5 Interior nonbearing walls. <S> Interior nonbearing walls shall be permitted to be constructed with 2 inch by 3 inch (51 mm by 76 mm) <S> studs spaced 24 inches (610 mm) on center or, when not part of a braced wall line, 2 inch by 4 inch <S> (51 mm by 102 mm) <S> flat studs spaced at 16 inches (406 mm) on center. <S> Interior nonbearing walls shall be capped with at least a single top plate. <S> Interior nonbearing walls shall be fireblocked in accordance with Section R602.8. <A> Preferably before a lot of work has already been done... <S> First, the question of which building code is even applicable is not clear to me. <S> The International Residential Code ("IRC") only applies for 1- and 2-family homes, but this sounds like maybe it is a commercial structure in which case the International Building Code ("IBC") would apply. <S> The exact version and any local amendments (which can be significant, by the way) would depend on your specific location. <S> The IRC does provide some pre-computed nailing patterns for wood-framed that Tester101 has quoted, but those only apply to light-framed platform or balloon-framed structures (see R301.1.2). <S> It sounds like this structure is probably not that, since you have heavy timber columns. <S> It could be post-and-beam or some other construction technique. <S> In which case the structure needs to be designed by an engineer. <S> (Or maybe the heavy timber is just decorative?) <S> Finally, screws can be used for structural purposes but they must be designed as such. <S> If you are straying outside the prescriptions of the building code you need to have an engineer do the design first. <A> Just found this. <S> The SDWS Framing screw is designed and load-rated for replacing 16d, 10d and 8d nails in framing applications. <S> The SDWS Framing screw is 0.160" in diameter and superior to nails in holding power and pull-out resistance. <S> It is code listed under IAPMO UES ER-192 and meets 2012 and 2015 IRC® and IBC® code requirements for several common wood framing applications. <S> https://www.strongtie.com/strongdrive_exteriorwoodscrews/sdws-q_screw/p/strong-drive-sdws-framing-screw
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You have a complicated question here and the best (and most legally-correct) answer will probably come from talking to your local building inspector.
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Stopping / braking rope in pulley system I am trying to hang my aluminum canoe in my garage. I previously purchased this canoe hoist, which was a piece of junk. So I decided to build my own pulley system following the same layout as the above product using pulleys and rope with working weight limits > 1200lbs. PROBLEM : I cannot find a way to brake the rope once I have had it hoisted. I need to get it as close to the ceiling as possible and when I try to go that last 5 inches, I simply can't brake the rope long enough for me to tie it off. QUESTION : Where can I get a brake on my pulley (like the amazon product) or is there some other clever way to brake the rope on my pulley system? EDIT I should clarify that I have a place to tie it off on the garage wall. When I hoist the canoe, I must do it from a ladder because the canoe itself gets in the way of the rope on the pulley. So I need a way to brake the rope while standing on the ladder and the brake needs to be near the pulley. I have a hook that I tie it off on the ceiling too, but in the process of trying to tie it off the canoe slips a couple of inches, putting it in the way of my garage door. <Q> If the canoe is getting in the way, can you not put a second pulley wheel with the cord over it off to the side <S> so you can pull the cord from the ground? <S> Then you can just use a standard cleat. <A> Use a jam cleat or a cam cleat mounted to to the wall. <S> Or you could use the horn cleat that came with the prior system. <S> You wrap the rope around the cleat in a figure 8 pattern, and then tie it off. <S> Alternatively (and this works specifically for canoes) <S> , you can put loop of nylon webbing on the ceiling with wire around the top to spread it open, and a small bit of pcord at the bottom. <S> You would pull the canoe to the ceiling, then slip the loop of webbing over each end of the canoe, and lower the canoe an inch or so onto the webbing; no tying required. <S> This does require a certain shape of canoe, however. <A> Sorry to combine many parts of the other answers, but none so far have all the components to fully satisfy your question. <S> If you can mount a pulley on your wall perpendicular to the direction of the canoe hoist, you could use this unit. <S> If you need to be offset from perpendicular, you could use this pulley , mounted with this strap , to give you more freedom to run the rope at an angle to the wall. <S> You'll want to locate either of these pulleys on the wall, near the ceiling, above where you want your rope to secure. <S> Then, you can run the rope through one of these cam cleats , that you will need to fabricate a mount for. <S> One idea is you could use a steel faceplate to cover an old-construction single-gang electrical box. <S> Drill the faceplate to mount the cam cleat and your problem is nearly history. <S> OTOH, if that is all too much trouble, you could just replace your current belay point with a figure-8 cleat, like they use to tie up boats to docks. <S> These can, with a little practice, be used to belay your canoe without slippage, as there is no tying to be done. <S> You can see what I mean in this video. <A> Yes, as mentioned in the comments you should definitely be using an additional pulley for a directional change. <S> As for a "brake", go to the outdoors/mountaineering store and ask for a small lightweight "ascender", these will basically allow the rope to pass through in a single direction but grab instantly if the rope moves the other direction with any load on it. <S> The drawback is that it needs to be easily accessible you you can release it when needed. <S> Honestly I think you should be able to rig this system so you never have to use a ladder.
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First, you definitely need a pulley near the ceiling to remove yourself from the ladder permanently.
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Is this switch a three-way? I am replacing these two switches and not positive how the right switch is wired. The left switch is the only switch that runs to our porch light and the right switch is the only switch that run to the interior room light. It looks like it is a three way switch, but I am not sure since each of those switches operate as single pole switches. Second question, even though the switch is grounded to the box, how can I tell if the box is actually grounded? <Q> It looks like it is a three way switch, but I am not sure <S> It isn't. <S> What I see is <S> That seems fairly straightforward to me <S> The black wires are permanent line (live/hot/phase) <S> The red wires are switched line (live/hot/phase) <S> The white wires are neutral <S> The green wire is a ground (earth) bond between switch housing and metal wall-box <S> So, I don't see a three-way arrangement (two switches controlling one light) <S> Whether the use of colours is compliant with local code (regulations) depends on where this is located and when it was installed. <S> Sorry for the horrible diagram, I must find a better tool than MS-Windows-Paint! <S> As bib pointed out in a comment, my diagram omits one black wire from the left switch to the bottom left (room light) cable. <S> I conjecture that this may have been to provide power to something like a ceiling fan with a separate pull-switch built into the hub - but that's just a guess on my part. <S> how can I tell if the box is actually grounded? <S> It probably isn't, unless there is a connection to the back-box we can't see (perhaps to the outer metal sheath of an amoured cable. <S> You can test this with a multimeter and, with all power to the building turned off and verified off, measure resistance between metal-back box and the white wires. <A> If, for each switch, the two black wires are connected together, you have a bog standard pair of single pole switched circuits, with unswitched power also continuing on toward one of the loads. <S> The two black wires at each switch may be connected together by being clamped into the same terminal block, or into separate terminal blocks that are connected together inside the switch. <S> That's why I want to know where you are, and I want to see a better view of the back of the switches. <A> Thanks for the help. <S> The extra wire was from an old fan/light fixture, which is no longer there. <S> That is where my confusion came from. <A>
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I see two black wires and one red wire connected to each switch. If the resistance is low there is a ground connection between back-box and the neutral-ground bond near the main incomer or main panel. Assuming you are in the US, a quick way to tell if a switch is a three-way is that it will not have the words "off" or "on" on it; threeway switches can be mounted in either direction.
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What is "pipe dope"? People often refer to "pipe dope" when talking about sealing threads of pipe fittings, but when I go to Home Depot or Lowes or whatever, I've never seen anything on the shelf labeled "Pipe Dope". This seems to be an old-fashioned word that people speak and understand, but it's not the correct, technical product name. If I have been told that for a certain joint, pipe dope is a better choice than Teflon tape, what do I need to pick up at the hardware store? I don't particularly need a certain brand recommendation, but an example or picture of a product currently stocked at a major, national retailer would be great as an example. If the word "dope" isn't used, what other terms do I look for to find "pipe dope"? <Q> Pipe joint compound or thread sealant. <S> Should be near soldering stuff, plumbers putty, PVC Glue, Teflon tape, etc. <S> Comes in a tube or plastic jar. <S> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-8-oz-Pipe-Joint-Compound-154202/100204007 <A> It can be used to describe dopes in various forms, including pastes, tapes, putties, etc. <S> Within the plumbing trade, the term " pipe dope " is commonly used to describe paste dopes exclusively. <S> Using a general term such as " dope ", prevents specific brand names from being used to represent an entire class of products. <A> All sources may be found in the image descriptions. <S> Products are shown for educational purpose only and are not to be viewed as endorsement. <S> Intending to include all major North American manufacturers, any additions are welcomed. <S> Pipe Dope <S> Trade Names: <S> TFE Paste <S> PTFE Pipe Thread Sealant <S> Pipe Thread Sealant Pipe Joint Compound <S> Pipe Thread Compound <S> Do not confuse plumber's putty with [Pipe/Thread/Joint - Dope/Paste - Sealant/Compound]. <S> MW – dope <S> 1.a <S> : a thick liquid or pasty preparation <S> b : a preparation for giving a desired quality to a substance or surface <A> there have already been plenty of answers to this here. <S> i would add that its important to not confuse pipe dope (which is typically a sealant for threaded connections) with either thread locker (a glue that holds threaded connections from vibrating loose) or antiseize compound (a material that keeps threaded connections from galvanically fusing). <S> these are three fundamentally different classes of products that are not interchangeable. <S> its also important to understand that pipe dopes are available in different formulations and with different additives for doing different jobs (gas lines, fuel connections, water lines, stainless alloys, etc) <A> If I am not mistaken, that's what you use for natural gas piping threads. <S> It'smuch better than tape.
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Pipe dope is a general term used to describe any lubricant, sealant, or adhesive designed to aid in making pipe joints leak proof.
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can i use a sheet of 26ga aluminium instead of a 1/16" steel plate? I'm in the process of finishing my basement (it has taken 1.5 years so far, and is still progressing ). I'm working on roughing-in the electrical at the moment. Against the 2x4 studs, I installed deep j-boxes ( this product ) instead of the smaller ones, primarily to give me more space when messing around with 12ga wires. The city electrical inspector wanted me to protect the wires going into these boxes (and possibly, the boxes themselves) from stray nails, etc. The problem is that I can't seem to find 1/16" steel plates that are wide enough to span the gap between two studs. I could possibly use the 3" or so wide nail plates, with a line of these installed onto a furring strip or similar, but that would still leave small spaces for an errant nail or screw to slip into. I bought a sheet of aluminum ( this product ), and am planning on cutting this into long strips, possibly doubling it over, and screwing it into the studs to protect the entire length of wire and back of each box. Is this feasible? OK per NEC? Am I giving the inspector another reason to deny approval of my electrical rough-in? <Q> The Code specifically indicates clearance from the edge of a framing member. <S> It makes no mention of clearance between studs. <S> From the NEC: 300.4 (A)(1) Bored Holes. <S> In both exposed and concealed locations, where a cable or raceway-type wiring method is installed through bored holes in joists, rafters, or wood members, holes shall be bored so that the edge of the hole is not less than 32 mm (11⁄4 in.) <S> from the nearest edge of the wood member. <S> Where this distance cannot be maintained, the cable or raceway shall be protected from penetration by screws or nails by a steel plate(s) or bushing(s), at least 1.6 mm (1⁄16 in.) <S> thick, and of appropriate length and width installed to cover the area of the wiring. <S> If they are going to require it they need to cite it. <S> Good luck! <A> I think that the inspector meant that you need to use nail plates (or nail stops) <S> where there are holes drilled in the studs for the wires to pass through. <A> You need to protect the wires where they enter the box, but you don't have to span the entire stud cavity. <S> You just need to protect the wire as far as it takes to reach more than 1-1/4" from the stud face (or the back of the drywall). <S> If you feel like you need more width, get 3-gang plates.
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Ask the inspector to cite the specific section of the Code that he is using to require you to do this. I'd pick up some double-gang box covers and nail them to the studs at box height and extending toward the cavity that the box is in.
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How to remove tap valve within shroud (Franke ascona mixer tap) I'm trying to replace the cold tap valve on a Franke Ascona mixer tap. The valve is slightly recessed in a non removable shroud. The new replacement valve fits a standard 14mm socket set which I can use. However the existing valve I am trying to remove has rounded sides which prevents the socket set from attaching. I have tried an adjustable spanner but because of the shroud I can't get enough leverage to undo the valve. How can I remove this valve? <Q> Have you tried an open-end wrench? <S> Such as this: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrench#/media/File%3A2008-04-14_Chrome-Vanadium_Wrenches.jpg <S> It won't fit flat onto the nut <S> but it looks like you could get a good grip on it at a shallow angle. <S> The end of a spanner (adjustable wrench) is quite a bit thicker and harder to maneuver in tight spaces. <S> Otherwise, you would need a specialty tool to remove it. <S> Good luck! <A> its called parrot beaking. <S> the vise grips will stick straight out from the shroud (long axis of the pliers parallel to the axis of rotation of the valve. <S> once you have a grip, and the size of the plier is important here - smaller pliers will fit further in, but larger ones tend to hold better for the next step. <S> you have to find a compromise. <S> once the pliers are in there and clamped hard, you place a screwdriver or drift punch through the pliers jaws (behind where its clamped to the valve) and apply torque. <S> just go slow and watch for bending of the jaws away from each other. <S> you dont want the punch to lever the jaws apart to the point they slip off the brass flats or worse, round them over. <S> also be wary of rotation. <S> some valve bodies have right hand threads, some left. <A> I used a large adjustable wrench with decent sized jaws which I tightened as best <S> I could. <S> I found that these were less prone to twisting. <S> Then I used a locking adjustable set of pliers (Mole grips in the UK) which I used to twist the adjustable wrench. <S> Came off really easily with no damage to the faces of the cartridges. <A> Hi Just replaced my Franke Sion Dual-Lever Mono Mixer Kitchen Tap ceramic disc. <S> ONLY for six sided shoulder on valve. <S> for older 2 sided buy special tool. <S> Tools: 2mm Allen key to remove tap head. <S> 14mm Socket (off socket set) <S> thats all you need regards steve
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you can take a pair of locking pliers (use good quality vise grips or something like that, and don't be tempted to use needle nose visegrips), the biggest pair you can get to fit, and insert the visegrips into the circular shroud.
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Brand new air compressor trips onboard breaker on start I bought a new air compressor from Harbor Freight (8-gallon, 2hp,) and last night I added oil to the fill line, opened all valves, and started it to run it for the break in period (30 minutes with no load, open valves on the tank.) When I first turned it on, it shut off immediately (1-2 seconds.) I pressed the reset button, started it up again, and it ran a bit longer (3 seconds) and then shut off again. Each time it shut off, it took progressively longer for the reset button to be pressable (it gives a little click when it's ready to be reset.) This went on for 5-7 cycles until it finally stayed running (much louder,) at which point it ran for the full 30 minutes until I turned it off. Today I changed the oil and went to turn it on again, and it was the same deal: several cycles of progressively longer short moments of quiet run time, and then it fired up and ran fine. Is this normal for oil-lubed air compressors? Is this part of the cold start process, or should I return it as DOA? <Q> I would return it. <S> It doesn't sound like a lubrication issue - it sounds like either the motor soft starter is bad, is not well paired with the breaker, or is simply not present on that model. <S> AC motors can pull substantially more current on initial start, and I'm guessing that is causing the breaker trips. <S> I don't mean to knock Harbor Freight (much), but higher quality compressors of that size and capacity aren't usually that much more expensive. <S> You can obviously do an exchange and hope for better luck with a replacement unit, but if you are planning on any serious use of it, reliability is a huge plus. <S> Nothing destroys a work plan for the day like having a bunch of air tools that you can't use because the compressor won't start. <A> The increasing time to reset suggests that the problem is thermal, at least in the cutoff switch. <S> Might be a bad cutoff switch <S> but I'd bet the switch is accurately measuring amperage to the motor, and the amperage is too high. <S> Which is weird because, pumping against 0 air pressure, motor load should be low. <S> I can think of 3 possibilities. <S> your AC outlet is not able to supply enough current, and the voltage is sagging, and the motor is pulling more current to compensate. <S> A <S> Kill-a <S> -Watt will tell the tale. <S> The compressor is mechanically binding up, and that is overworking the motor. <S> I suspect the latter. <S> Give it a cursory test with a Kill-a-watt and then back to Harbor Freight it goes. <S> I'm one for buying a quality industrial grade unit on Craigslist. <S> I do mean to knock Harbor Freight; they are at best single-use tools(which have their place), and at worst, good money after bad. <A> I had similar issue, & it was a bad capacitor. <S> Couldn't find a 150 µF axial mount replacement for a decent price, so went with 100 µF <S> (I think anything from 100 µF to 150 µF will work) can type CBB 60 or CBB65 start & run capacitor ($5 - $10 on eBay.) <S> Cut wires where they entered old capacitor, added female blade connectors and built new mount. <S> Used caulking gun ($4) tube as holder, by removing handle & cutting to length. <S> Removed 8 mm bolt from old capacitor & used to attach the caulking gun cradle to the old capacitor mount on compressor. <S> Wrapped black electrical tape around new capacitor to provide firm fit, and added a wire tie to secure it to new mounting. <A> If your harbor freight compressor has a LEFOO pressure switch, check the unloading valve on the side opposite the gauge. <S> You should see a device that has a very fine needle projecting from the bottom. <S> When the compressor turns off, the foot just below the needle rises and pushes on the needle unloading the compressor. <S> My experience has been that the foot that operates the needle is bent slightly so firm contact with the needle does not occur. <S> Use a wide blade screw driver and wedge it under the upper foot and apply enough pressure to bend it upward slightly
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The motor has an internal problem, e.g. shorted armature coils, and that is making it overheat.
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LED light bulb flickering in socket, incandescent works fine I have a couple of outdoor light sockets with built in motion detectors. These seem to work as you'd expect with regular incandescent bulbs- you can set a timer for how long you want them to be on when motion is detected and they light up fine. When replacing them with LED bulbs however they blink rapidly instead of staying on. I'm not talking about a 50hz buzz or whatever, they completely power off and on rapidly, almost like they are trying to strobe. The blinking is erratic, it will go for 10 seconds then go dark completely, then blink again for varying amounts of time. I see this same behavior with LED bulbs in both of the sockets, which are the same brand and model of motion detector outdoor light sockets. The bulbs are Verbatim A19 6-Pack Warm White 3000K LED Bulb, Replaces 60W, Non-Dimmable 99072 if that matters. I want to replace everything in the house with LED, but not sure how to make these two sockets work correctly. Suggestions? <Q> Are these the the type of motion sensors which use the neutral wire? <S> A motion sensor needs power to work. <S> Ideally it gets always-hot, and neutral, and then provides a switched-hot to the target bulb. <S> Such a unit should work fine, I use them widely. <S> However some motion sensors are designed like old school dimmers - they are designed to work in old-style "switch loop" wiring which did not provide a neutral. <S> They get power by placing themselves in series with the incandescent bulb - they allow a small amount of current to leak through, not enough for the bulb to light. <S> This totally falls apart with CFLs or LEDs because their switch mode power supplies do not play nice with that scheme. <S> My suspicion is you have one of these. <S> You can get new sensor heads that do have neutral wires and attach in the same way (screw into a 1/2" knockout). <S> I use them widely and they play nice with everything. <S> Or you can get entirely new sensor/lamp combos which are sealed, since the LED emitter is going to outlive us all. <S> Some of those are 12V internally, i.e. the sensor runs on 12V as does the LED emitter head. <S> 12V detector heads are much more economical than 120V ones. <S> Or you can slap an incandescent into one of the lamp positions. <S> Or a resistor of appropriate size which has the same effect. <A> They are obviously incompatible. <S> You could try another brand, preferably something that looks physically different so that they are likely not rebranded identical bulbs. <S> Or you could replace the fixture. <S> I have replaced our outdoor motion-detector lamp fixtures with ones with built-in LEDs.. <S> More expensive than cheap lamps, but they are lasting better through harsh winter conditions, so I don't begrudge the modest total expense. <A> You can put a LED bulb in one socket and a edison bulb in the other and it will work fine. <A> The bulbs being non-dimmable probably matters very much. <S> Buy a dimmable bulb and try that. <S> If it doesn't work you can return the bulb <S> but I think you'll find it's "fixed". <A> I second the thought that LED bulbs tend to be more susceptible to voltage fluctuation and will flicker easily. <S> I have a light-sensor driven porch light I bought at Home Depot and for the life of me, I don't know why LED bulbs flicker until one day <S> I tried a set of CFLs and incandescent. <S> Replacing CFL's immediately helped. <A> This is a defect in the manufacturing process. <S> Many of the Verbatim A19 model bulbs will eventually fail with the symptoms of "blinking" or "strobing". <S> How do I know? <S> Because these poorly made bulbs are cheap and I have seen hundreds of them fail resulting in the flashing or strobing effects before someone complains and they are thrown in the bin and replaced.
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Two possibilities come to mind- the bulb does not draw enough current in the right way for the switch in the fixture to stay on, or the bulb is creating so much EMI that it is interfering with the circuit in the fixture. Actually it is because they don't draw the minimum current required for operation of the relay.
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find where the brick is behind plaster before drilling I'm putting up a wall mounted holder for my road bike and the istructions say that the bolts must go into brick, not mortar. There are three bolts and they are quite randomly placed (i.e not in a row). I would usually use trial and error but in this instance because of the arrangement of bolts I could end up with lots of holes in my wall. Is there a way to find where brick/mortar is behind plaster before drilling the holes for the bolts? <Q> I would just put the anchors where I wanted them and not worry about hitting brick. <S> However, with a running bond pattern, and measuring the brick dimensions from the outside, whether your first anchor hits brick or not you should be able to measure from there to hit brick on the two subsequent anchors. <S> Good luck! <A> just ignore the instructions. <S> use threaded rods set into resin anchors. <S> this way it doesnt matter if you hit mortar or masonry. <S> its basically glue in a hole that holds the anchor. <S> you can get gun type, syringe type or glasscap type resins. <S> they all work pretty much the same way, but have different pros and cons. <S> just google it or check youtube. <A> You'd have to be very unlucky to get all three in mortar. <S> The chances are if you hit mortar it's a horizontal line, so with a little care you can have a good chance of avoiding getting a second hole into mortar, depending on the hole pattern. <S> Decent fixings (rawlplugs) into mortar are probably stronger than the rubbish supplied with most things into brick anyway, so get decent fixings.
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If you are talking about supporting a bicycle then 100 year old mortar will certainly hold your bike especially with three anchors.
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How to fill holes in Hardwood Floor, Large, Medium, and Small The floors in this home are likely original from the 1920's. The lovely owners of the house before me did not care much as it was a rental, and we now have tons of paint and holes on and in the floors. I'm going to refinish the floors because of the excess of scratches and paint marks. I'd love to be able to fix the holes as well. From what I understand, the two options are to 1) use wood fill, 2) let poly fill the holes. What is the best way to make holes such as the ones below look good? Large: Medium: Small: <Q> The only long term solution is to replace the boards. <S> As others have mentioned, wood filler cracks out and in some cases looks like cat litter after a while. <S> The reason is that the wood expands and contracts as the humidity changes between the seasons. <S> Theres a great 'this old house' video which demonstrates how to do this. <S> For the small gaps, the recommended solution, from a couple of floor refinishing professionals, was to leave them as character. <S> Filling them will crack out, replacing them will be a ton of labor and may end up with the same cracks in the end - especially depending on what season you're in. <A> just go to youtube and search for lacquer sticks. <S> they are the best way to make tough, perfect match repairs to wood. <S> you can buy them at lee valley and other places. <A> There does appear to be some form of structural damage beneath the damaged boards. <S> Any kind of 'patch' or replacement may bring similar results over time. <S> I would cut out and remove the entire section of board, inspect the joists and proceed from there. <S> Once structural soundness is evaluated, buy replacement flooring, using a cut-out section for best match. <S> You can often find decent replacement planks at a building salvage yard at a reasonable price. <S> Solid plank flooring is tricky. <S> Once damage is removed, if you don’t feel confident doing that task, I would get a wood floor pro to do replacement. <S> Removing damaged floor yourself will save some on cost, but if not confident, you could create damage more expensive to repair. <S> If this process is too much for whatever reason, I would sand out the damaged areas and fill with plastic wood putty. <S> The result will not be beautiful, but you can make it acceptable and reduce trip hazard. <A> One of the nicest floor I've ever seen was in a small grocery store in San Miguel, CA. <S> Built in the 20s or 30s, it shrank quite a bit and had been well worn from foot traffic. <S> Each night it was liberally doused with pinesol and water, and left to dry. <S> Every now and then it was oiled. <S> I was gorgeous, rustic, authentic. <S> Basically, don't worry about the nicks and cuts and stuff. <S> Sand if you want just to keep splinters away, oil, and enjoy. <S> Tung oil is good.
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Replacing the boards is not as difficult as it seems, but the repairs will stick out unless you refinish that section of the floor. You can also just wax it with a good floor wax.
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How to repair damaged drywall seam In a recent windstorm, a couple of shingles blew off my house. I had some water drip into my attic and seep through the drywall in my bedroom ceiling. As a result, a definitive section of seam tape came off. I have included some photos below. What is the best way to repair this, please? I suspect there will be a number of ways to go about this. If so, then my priorities in order of preference would be: simplicity, short repair time, cost, perfection of end result. (In other words, I would rather have a simple fix that looks good, than a complicated fix that is absolutely perfect.) <Q> There's really only one right way to do this. <S> It takes a bit of time, but it's not difficult or complicated. <S> You'll want to replace the tape to ensure that the seam doesn't propagate through the paint. <S> Pick up some premixed topping compound (available in gallon or smaller buckets), and a short roll of joint tape (cheap enough to not bother experimenting with other types of paper). <S> Cut a length of tape just shorter than the repair, then cut 1/4" or so off one edge so it fits comfortably in the depression. <S> Drag the knife over it to embed it in the mud. <S> At this point you can opt to walk away and let it dry, or try and skim over it now to save time. <S> Skim once or twice more, dragging the knife at a low angle and pressing firmly. <S> There should be very little sanding to do if you do this properly. <A> I much prefer to use the mesh tape that has a sticky back on it. <S> Cut your tape to size, press it in place, and then spread your compound over it. <S> The paper tape is messier, harder to work with, and can slip around. <S> Also, my experience with spackling vs premixed drywall compound is that the spackling is dryer. <S> It makes filling larger holes easier. <S> It doesn't sag as much and plop on the floor if you're trying to put on lots. <S> But if you're spreading over a larger area for a smooth finish, I think the drywall compound works better. <S> (Spackling, however, comes in the smallest size container.) <A> Get yourself a small bucket of pre-mixed tape compound in the Sheetrock section of Home Depot/Lowes, and 2 sizes of putty knives if you don't already own some. <S> You would then put a thin coat or two overlapping the missing piece. <S> Let it dry and sand lightly. <S> It may take a few coats and sanding sessions to get near perfect.
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Fill the depression with mud using a taping or putty knife, then lay the tape into it. By letting it dry first you eliminate the risk of pulling the tape around or wrinkling it.
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How to troubleshoot a florescent light. I'd like to know if there is a way to troubleshoot a fixture with T8 or T12 working on a ballast that stopped working, if the problem is in the ballast or the bulbs, without having to buy new bulbs to try them.Thanks <Q> Yes if they don't light and the ends of the bulbs are black you just found 1 answer the bulb is bad. <S> If you replace the bulb and still have trouble your problem is the ballast, electronic ballast die when overloaded. <S> I almost left a sarcastic note at the end of this but will explain. <S> After just changing 3 ballast in very high end fixtures that the owner was two cheap to change lamps. <S> The cost of new fixtures almost 700.00 plus install. <S> I purchased 3 cheap fixtures and pulled the ballast cost just under 110. <S> For the same ballast. <S> I made 400.00 to replace them. <S> Not bad for a few hours work, If he changed the lamps would have cost less than 35 at Home Depot <A> Thing is, if you replace a ballast it is always best practice to replace the lamps as well. <S> With older magnetic T-12 ballasts the lamps will go out in pairs, even if one lamp is still good, so troubleshooting can be annoying. <S> With T-8 electronic ballasts lamps go out individually. <S> If all the lamps go out at the same time, or are even just all out, it is a very good indication that the ballast has failed, although not 100% certain. <S> In my experience it's pretty close though. <S> Bottom line, you should replace fluorescent lamps with age as well, and even replace all instead of just those that are burned out. <S> Fluorescent lamps loose a good bit of their brightness over time, something like 20-30% within a few thousand hours. <S> This is why when you replace all the lamps in a fixture it seems like a new fixture. <A> Short answer: <S> Yes <S> How much do you know about electricity? <S> First off, get the data sheet for the ballast you want to troubleshoot. <S> You will have to test for voltage between the pins on the ends of the lamps and then from one end to the other to see if it matches the rating of the ballast. <S> If it is an electronic ballast it will be more complicated than an old transformer ballast. <S> After researching this you will probably decide it is easier to just go to the box store and buy a couple lamps for less than $10 and install them. <S> Good luck!
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If the ballast doesn't light brand new lamps, it is broke and needs to be replaced.
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How long does it take for polycarbonate to yellow? I recently replaced a broken small window with Lexan polycarbonate. Lexan is reported to yellow after 10 years. How bad is this likely to become, how quickly -- will I have to change the window again in 10 years to be able to see clearly through it? <Q> About 10 years in Florida, if given an anti-UV treatment. <S> Here is an old GE technical report which gives details http://www.bristolite.com/interfaces/media/Tech%20Report%20GE%20Lexan%20Polycarbonate%2010%20Year%20Aging.pdf <A> A photo of the situation would help. <S> But if you are "repairing" the meter itself then the better advice would be that you get the meter replaced instead. <S> On the other hand if this "window" is a separate thing from the meter then <S> why mess with Lexan if there is a clouding concern. <S> Just replace it with some good quality thick glass will stay clear for a long time. <A> There are greenhouses that go far more than 10 years <S> and they aren't yellow. <S> For untreated Lexan the yellow is on the surface and can be polished off. <S> My generic Lexan window on my chicken coop is about 5 years old and not yellowed that I can see. <S> My climate is very sunny for 4 months of the summer and mostly cloudy the rest of the year, 48 degrees latitude.
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There could be some concerns raised with tampering with the meter if its seals are broken. It depends on climate and whether the Lexan was treated or coated for UV exposure.
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Can I install a toilet flange in a shortened (sawed off) elbow fitting? I'm putting a bathroom in my basement, and had a plumber come in and lay the PVC pipe after I cut out part of my floor. After pouring new concrete, he came back in and said there was a problem with the pipe for my toilet and it was too high. He said it must have shifted somehow (it did not -- it was like that from the beginning and my ignorance didn't know it was incorrect). Short of breaking up the concrete and re-running the pipe, is there anything I can do to make this work properly? Here's what it looks like. You can see the collar of the elbow sticking a good two inches above the concrete. <Q> Were this my project I'd cut off the fitting flush with the floor and find out exactly how close to normally the flange fits. <S> The inside of elbow should be the same size as the inside of the pipe. <S> I'd then be sure to securely anchor the flange to the concrete to minimize stress on the joint by the toilet mounting bolts. <S> This solution won't likely meet applicable codes, and will probably generate a few downvotes from sticklers who think there's only one right way to do things, but if done well will not create problems. <S> If so much material needs to be removed from the flange as to leave a poor connection or structural weakness, or if the curvature of the elbow prevents a good fit, you'll need to remove the concrete and start fresh. <A> If you already paid the plumber there may not be much on that front as the cost of that job was probably less that the cost of taking a dispute to small claims court. <S> If you have not made payment yet then you have the option to withhold till they come back and make it right or fire then off the job. <S> Note that if the bathroom floor is going to be essentially at the concrete level <S> then you should probably be planning for a recess around the pipe that is below the nominal concrete level as the top of the toilet flange plate wants to be approximately at floor level or just a little above it. <S> This picture should help to show this: <A> I would cut it flush to the floor . <S> Install a flange ring (ring only no PVC) stick the wax on the pipe and bolt it down.
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If possible, I'd make slight adjustments to the flange by sanding or grinding, then glue it in using primer and PVC adhesive. In either case you are most likely facing having to knock out some of that concrete again and then hiring another plumber to re-do the pipe.
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Will a 2-stage heat pump cool my upstairs on low stage? I am currently upgrading my furnace from an oil furnace/AC combination to all heat pump. I am considering two stage vs single stage heat pumps. I understand that two-stage will supposedly give me more 'comfort' (for running on low stage instead of one shorter single stage). However, one of the HVAC company representatives that came out to give me an estimate for a heat pump explained that he doesn't think a two stage is worth it for my house. Here is why; I have a colonial style single family home (2 levels plus a finished basement, built in the 70s). The way the duct system is setup, the main level heats and cools fine, but the upstairs gets significantly less airflow (with bedroom doors open). Even with an oversized unit and blower, the air coming out of the vents is weak compared to the first floor. With the way my ducts are setup currently, he said that the second floor will not cool well in the summer if a two stage is running on the low stage. In essence, in order to get efficient cooling upstairs I'd need to be running at higher speeds. He was the only one that presented this opinion of several other people that came out. Does this guy have a point, or will a two stage still give me better 'comfort' even with really low air flow on the second level? The home is approximately 1600 square feet above ground, and then another 800 square feet for the finished basement. There is currently a 3.5 ton unit a several companies recommended a 3 ton unit. Note: I am not asking for the ideal solution to my heating/cooling problems. I am asking of single stage and dual stage, which would do better cooling and heating the entire house more evenly in my situation. <Q> The answer will depend on how much temperature drop/rise there is inside the ducts. <S> Either way the fan moves the same amount of air. <S> In stage 1 mode <S> the net effect will be for it to spend more time with the fan on, since to hold <S> say 70F it will have to spend a while pushing 65F air through, vs a single stage system that puts out 60F air which will get back to setpoint faster. <S> More air circulation (assuming its all a nice 65F) should actually be better for comfort in your restricted upstairs area vs spending a short time blowing 60F air until the downstairs is comfortable, leaving the upstairs without much time to get cooled air. <S> If the ducts are soaking a lot of the cooling up (i.e. the downstairs is getting 65F air but the upstairs is getting 68F air) <S> then no, <S> the first stage of a two stage unit will not give a lot of comfort and a system pushing colder overall air (i.e. single stage) all the time would be preferable. <S> In any case (if you get this system or not) most ducts, even in older homes, have some sort of internal damper to control flow to each run/room. <S> These might not be accessible if you finished your basement and covered them all up, but that's for a different question about exposing louvers and patching sheetrock ;-). <S> Further, your vents in each room should have a shutoff (not preferable vs in-duct damper, because it's noisy) which would allow you reduce the airflow to the downstairs rooms. <S> This would be the solution if you find that running the system just doesn't get the upstairs rooms comfortable. <S> Start by reducing flow to the one or two ducts closes to the thermostat, and continue until your system runs long enough to cool the upstairs without leaving any of the first floor rooms too frigid. <S> edit: grammar and clarification <A> I agree with everything noted by Jeff. <S> Further to this, you should consider cutting in dampers to aid in your airflow distribution - this should be a relatively easy task. <S> Start with the rooms where you are overcooling the most and work back from there. <S> I would note that dampers may not help with everything -you will struggle to balance the system if your ducts going upstairs are small or follow torturous routes, or if you have take-offs to the ground floor super close to furnace. <S> Air takes the path of least resistance unfortunately! <A> There is no doubt that a 2-stage unit will more evenly condition your space, for heating or cooling, that is what they are designed for. <S> The full/partial compressor load capability, combined with variable fan speed commonly offered on 2-stage units, allows the unit to run for longer periods. <S> That reduces temperature swings and would provide more even cooling of your space. <S> As a bonus, they are cheaper to run, eventually the additional cost will be offset by energy savings. <S> read this
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A two stage cooling system means that the heatpump will either drop the air return temp a little bit (stage 1 is running, half cooling) or it will drop the air temp a lot (stage two is running, full cooling).
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Is this ceiling box wiring correct and how can I reconnect an abandoned 3-way switch to it? I have a house (Georgia, USA) and some kitchen renovations have revealed some prior electrical work and I am trying to figure it out. Originally, there was a ceiling box in the kitchen with a fan/light fixture controlled by a pair of 3-way switches. One 3-way switch was located at the kitchen entrance to the garage and the other switch was located in a 2-gang box that it shared with a 2-way switch for a ceiling light in the dining area. The fan and light did not have separate switches. At some point in the past, an exterior flood light was added to the house and the 3-way switch in the 2-gang box was replaced with a duplex switch. One switch controls the light fixture and the other controls the exterior flood light. The 3-way switch at the garage entrance was abandoned and covered with a cover plate. And by abandoned, I mean the 'electrician' bent back the tabs on the switch and shoved the entire switch into the box). The overall layout looks like this: While renovating the kitchen, I found that the fan was mounted to a shallow fan-rated box with wiring from it to a second non-fan-rated box that was just laying on the insulation in the attic. I removed the ceiling fan and the boxes (mentally noting how it was all wired) intending to rewire it (using a properly sized single box) the following day. Due to circumstances beyond my control, the work was delayed several weeks and I cannot remember the exact wiring. I spent a couple of hours with my multimeter checking continuity to determine which wire was connected to what and I think that the kitchen ceiling box and 2-gang switch box looked something like this: The 2-gang switch box on the right is exactly as I found it. The wires from the 3-way switch were sitting at the back of the box, unterminated with bare conductors exposed. The neutral was connected to the black unterminated pigtail with a wire nut as shown. The ceiling box on the left is how I think it should be wired, with one exception. Note that there is black tape shown on the neutral going to the sink light switch. This switch is not a 3-way switch so I think that the black tape is a mistake. The hot from the ceiling box goes to the switch which then sends it to the light fixture. The neutral from the light fixture should connect with the neutral from the ceiling box in the switch box and all the neutrals are connected together in the ceiling box as shown. Having said all that, there are three parts to my question: Does the ceiling box wiring look correct (taped neutral notwithstanding)? Should I remove the tape from the neutral? Can I replace the 2-way duplex switch with a 2-way/3-way duplex switch and reconnect the 3-way circuit? If so, how is the 3-way switch wired at each end? If not, how do I properly abandon the 3-way cable at each end? My current plan is to implement the answer provided by A. I. Breveleri with the minor change recommended by RedGrittyBrick to make the constant hots black and the switched hots red. So the final result, if I'm not mistaken, will look like this: If there are no objections, I'll wire it up this way and mark A. I. Breveleri's answer correct after the lights are on. Also, in working on this problem I visited many sites that attempted to explain 3-way switches, but the only explanation that made the light bulb go on in my head was here : "What is common in the diagrams above and with any 3-way switch circuit is that the power hot wire coming into the circuit will always go to the common terminal of the first switch. The hot wire from light always goes to the common terminal of the second switch. The traveler wires go from switch to switch connected to the traveler terminals, it doesn't matter which. As long as you keep this in mind, a 3-way circuit becomes really simplified. And of course the neutral will always go directly to the load." <Q> That part on the left can't be right. <S> If you closed the sink light switch it would trip the breaker. <S> That is a dead short from hot to neutral. <S> The black tape is not a mistake. <S> That should be the feed to the switch and the black is the switch leg that returns to the light. <S> Then the light is connected to the neutral with the others. <S> The black wire to the 2 gang box should be used for the hot or the red but not both. <S> Right now you have the black wire seriesed through the light. <S> I don't think they make a duplex switch with a three way in it. <S> Does the dining area ceiling box feed a fan/light? <S> You have a hot feed going to it along with a switch leg. <S> You are attempting a pretty complicated setup for your first time. <S> You may need to post a more extended diagram of the devices and the wires running between each. <S> Sorry I can't help more. <S> Edit <S> You had the white marked black but have corrected that in your last drawing. <S> Using red for the switched power and travelers is the better method as others pointed out. <S> Your final drawing looks electrically sound. <S> In the future, you should take a neutral to the switch location. <A> The octagon ceiling box looks fine provided you change nothing. <S> All whites are neutral and all blacks and reds are always-hot, except the bulb lead which is a switched hot. <S> Of course you can reactivate the 3-way. <S> The only issues you get into are Code related, as well as the question "Why exactly did the previous owner abandon it?" <S> You may end up finding out . <S> Now we get into some code issues. <S> This setup was probably legal when the house was built. <S> There's no Actual Neutral going to the far 3-way because Code did not require that. <S> Now it does. <S> Bringing it to current Code would require pulling a 12/4 or 14/4 cable between the two switch boxes. <S> A mere switch replacement is not "new work". <S> This kind of rearranging - well it's arguable. <S> This diagram another diy.se question shows how to wire it old-school. <S> Install an appropriate model of "smart switch" in the 2-gang box and a companion remote switch in the remote box. <S> Re-task <S> the white, black and/or red as needed by the companion remote. <S> Now, about that marked neutral. <S> It is actually a neutral, despite having a marking that is commonly used and required to re-designate white wires as "hot". <S> If this designation is used elsewhere in the house, then I'd argue this usage violates NEC due to being inconsistent (110.12 workmanlike). <A> I used blue for the white neutral wires: <S> Please remember to mark the white traveler with black tape or paint. <S> You can re-use <S> the duplex you have, but you might want to buy two new three-ways. <S> but you have to go to the store anyway. <S> I sent the power to the further three-way first instead of to the one in the gang box because it saves one wire-nut.
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If you can tolerate it, I would move the 2-ways to the existing double switch and the 3-way or smart switch in the full-height space. With your current wiring it is not possible, but the NEC requires a neutral at switch locations with a few exceptions. I see your extended diagram explains the kitchen light switch was not a dead short but just power to the switch. I followed the color scheme of the existing wiring, with the red carrying unswitched hot in the 3-wire cables. The 3-way white wire is not marked because obvious switch loops didn't need to be. Otherwise it's, well, debatable. If you are not being inspected you could consider this 'grandfathered' wiring. One way to moot the entire matter is go new-tech. I think you want to leave the kitchen box alone and rewire the 2-gang box like this. There is a little bit of a learning curve to this. You could straighten the tabs on the abandoned one Switches will be cheaper and more available if you do. New work requires upgrading to current Code.
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Should I use a halogen light transformer with a higher wattage rating? I have a light fixture with 9 G4 20W halogen 12V light bulbs. It has Jindel 105W 120V to 12V transformer, which died. Please explain how 105W transformer can support 9 20W light bulbs? Should it be 180W (9*20W=180W) transformer? I couldn't find similar transformer with 180W, but I found 150W. Will it work in my fixture? Again, why OEM installed 105W transformer?Thank you in advance for the response! <Q> I think you are asking the right question. <S> The transformer should be rated higher than the total load. <S> this one is 12V @ <S> 500W. <A> Alternatively, consider swapping out your surface-of-the-sun hot halogens for some LED replacements and going with the lighter transformer you found. <S> Make sure to select a dimmable product if you need that feature. <A> Please explain how 105W transformer can support 9 20W light bulbs? <S> The 105 watt rating is for continuous duty in nominal conditions for a specified temperature rise. <S> No doubt in your situation it was getting much warmer than specified and that is certainly why it died. <S> How long it lives depends mostly on the temperature the transformer reaches. <S> If it is installed in a cool, well ventilated place, and runs at most an hour at a stretch, it might last for years. <S> If you want a long-lasting installation, significantly oversize its replacement, like 400 watts. <S> Or, better yet, replace the halogens with LEDs. <S> why OEM installed 105W transformer? <S> Maybe there wasn't 180 watts initially? <S> Maybe there were 12 watt bulbs <S> originally 9x12 = 108 watts—close enough considering the 10 or 20% variability of the components. <S> Or maybe there was a dimmer. <S> Or, maybe the OEM did not know what they were doing...
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It would be better to go higher with a landscaping type transformer You don't want to use a switching supply as they have a tough time with loads like halogen lights.
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240 volt house wiring, 130 volts on one leg and 112 volts on the other? In my folks old farm house, at the panels main input from outside.L1 is 130v.L2 is 112v.When a load is applied both legs down voltage, allot! Anywhere from 10 to 20v. The wires running from the pole outside to the house are old and exposed. Could the old wires cause the difference between L1 and L2?If so please explain why/how? Thank you in advance for any input I can receive!!! <Q> Sounds like you might have a bad neutral. <S> Contact the utility, and have them check it. <S> This is a dangerous situation, that need immediate attention. <S> Voltage swings can wreak havoc on sensitive electronics, so you may want to use UPS to protect them. <A> This is a "lost neutral" and it is very dangerous and should be dealt with swiftly. <S> Your house has 240V power with "neutral" in the middle. <S> That gives you two sides. <S> The neutral from the transformer forces each side to be 120V. <S> What if it didn't? <S> Then each side would be "whatever" in voltage! <S> (but they would add up to 240V.) <S> That is happening. <S> The connectors/terminations are far more likely to be the culprit than open runs of wire. <S> That "whatever" will change with load. <S> Turn on a toaster on one side, its voltage will drop and the other side's goes up. <S> What's more, your neutral may not be at a safe (near ground) voltage anymore. <S> Even scarier, some electric ranges and washing machines attach the chassis of the machine to neutral because they are too cheap for proper grounds. <S> With a lost neutral, those chassis are now hazardous. <S> People have died from this. <S> Recently. <S> Google "electrocuted" and that's usually the story. <S> You can't cure this by turning off the breaker; breakers don't switch neutrals. <S> Source <S> Here's how a common panel is set up. <S> Notice the two hot buses (copper) - <S> those fingers that stick into the middle feed the breakers on both sides. <S> Notice the trick <S> so each hot bar serves every other row of breakers. <S> Got it? <S> One way to temporarily cope with a lost neutral situation is to choose one of the two buses and turn off or pull every breaker that attaches to it. <S> (on most panels: every other row). <S> Now one phase is irrelevant, you have turned your panel into a 120V panel: if neutral goes out, power simply fails, but nothing goes overvoltage. <S> Now instead of being a spooky goblin that fries things randomly, it's a plain failure. <S> Much easier to troubleshoot. <S> Fix this <S> ASAP. <A> The age of the feed wires won't cause this. <S> Double check your main connections to make sure they are tight. <S> This is very dangerous so the power should be shut off first. <S> It sounds like you may be dropping voltage across a high resistance connection at one or more of the main terminals. <S> If the wire is aluminum it may have oxidized and created the high resistance condition. <S> Good luck! <A> OMG! <S> This would scare me if it happened. <S> Quit using ANYTHING using either of those legs. <S> Bad Neutral connection, You may easily electrocute yourself. <S> You see as the post above mentioned some appliances rely on a ground that they don't have. <S> Otherwise yes, pick a phase and shut it down. <S> If your lucky it is bad on transmission (the ground at the transformer <S> and you cant be charged for it.) <S> Whatever, just get your electrician as this is probably hard on everything you have plugged in,BTW... check your wiring for the neutral, if it is oxidized than that is what needs replaced as ground requires very little resistance for the given voltage to be able to earth the current flowing. <S> Good luck, hope you get this figured out. <A> BTW... check your wiring for the neutral, if it is oxidized than that is what needs replaced as ground requires very little resistance for the given voltage to be able to earth the current flowing. <S> Good luck, hope you get this figured out.
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However, when power goes out, your neutral wire may be pulled up to 120V... and formerly benign contact with neutral (like those neutral-grounded appliances) is now deadly. You're bound to over-voltage both sides and blow almost everything in your house... and that can start fires. It is the connections that cause problems. Call your electrician Now and see about having neutral bad. I would normally say "Turn the main breaker off NOW and don't touch it until it's fixed" but that will result in a fridge full of lost food, and one may be reluctant to do that.
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Can the dryer's heating element be saved? I just read why you shouldn't mend a dryer's heating element or coil. What if the break just happens to be be two or three inches at the very end, or even just 1 inch from the end; can you stretch it out and complete the circuit? It's for a Whirlpool Dryer. <Q> It doesn't matter where the break is. <S> You cannot repair the element without shortening it, which will reduce its resistance, causing it to burn hotter than it is designed to do. <S> If you are very lucky it will just burn out again right away before setting your clothes on fire. <S> Of course the appliance designer allowed some safety margin in the specs, because manufacturing tolerances vary, and parts can fail after installation. <S> So you would think you could get away with a little fudging of the heater element length. <S> But what you cannot know is how close your dryer was to immolating itself before you started messing with it. <A> Increasing the resistance makes it safer not less safer. <S> Heater elements have Nickel - Chromium wires or Nichrome. <S> Obtain some nichrome wire. <S> It you have access to the break, overlap the broken heater wires about 3/4 inch. <S> Make sure the heater coils and added nichrome wire do not touch anything else. <S> (The housing or another coil). <S> The heater has a protective thermostat if it gets too hot. <S> I have a new heater that I can install in my dryer. <A> You'd have to size it properly. <S> Although, heating elements are not inherently complex or expensive. <S> A replacement element may be affordable.
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Well, you could add a power resistor to replace the resistance you cut out. Twist nichrome wire across the overlapped heater wires. The outer surface oxidizes and the resistance through the outside is higher. But my dryer has been working fine with this repair through multiple loads of clothes.
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I have a pool pump on a 30 amp circuit. Can I add a 20 amp GFCI outlet to that same 30 amp breaker. Pump is on 12 gauge wire I want to put a 20 amp GFCI receptacle on a 30 amp breaker. Is this ok? The 30 amp breaker is for a pool pump on 115v. <Q> You don't have a 30 amp circuit. <S> Your wire is 12 gauge, so you have a 20 amp circuit with the wrong breaker. <S> Replace the breaker with 20A Feel free to install your 15 or 20 amp GFCI since they are legal on 20A circuits <S> For that matter, you could just install a GFCI breaker. <S> Price both ways. <S> Gadgets which run on 120V/30A are almost nonexistent. <S> Nobody builds devices that way. <S> If it needs that much power, they kick up to 240V/15A, which permits use of 14 gauge wire instead of 10 gauge. <S> If this pump really is 120V/30A, you are going to have to run new 10 gauge wire anyway. <S> Generally things that large are given their own circuit. <S> Might as well re-task <S> the 20A circuit to the outlets. <A> No. <S> You cannot install a 20 ampere receptacle on a 30 ampere circuit. <S> Section 210.21(B)(3) of the National Electrical Code, says that a receptacle on a 30 ampere branch circuit with multiple outlets must be rated for 30 amperes. <S> If you think about this, it makes complete sense. <S> If the device plugged into the 20 ampere receptacle fails, and starts to draw more current. <S> The breaker will not trip, until the device draws well over 30 amperes of current. <S> By this time, the 20 ampere device could be on fire. <S> National Electrical Code 2014 <S> Chapter 2 Wiring and Protection Article 210 <S> Branch Circuits <S> 210.21 Outlet Devices. <S> Outlet devices shall have an ampere rating that is not less than the load to be served and shall comply with 210.21(A) and (B). <S> (B) Receptacles. <S> (3) Receptacle Ratings. <S> Where connected to a branch circuit supplying two or more receptacles or outlets, receptacle ratings shall conform to the values listed in Table 210.21(B)(3), or, where rated higher than 50 amperes, the receptacle rating shall not be less than the branch-circuit rating. <A> In addition to Tester's answer, the 12 gauge wire you have on a 30 amp breaker is a code violation. <S> You should change the breaker to a 20 amp breaker.
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Therefore, installing a 20 ampere receptacle would be a violation. 12 gauge wire is not rated for a 30 amp breaker.
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Is there a way to remove condensation and clean inside a double pane window? I have some double pane windows with failed seals. They get condensation inside. When it dries it leaves unsightly residue that I can't figure out how to clean off. I know that I could replace the windows, but that seems wasteful for what is mostly a cosmetic problem. Are there any clever ways of cleaning between the panes? Maybe all windows should come with magnetic cleaners like they have for the inside of fish tanks. <Q> No. <S> You're limited by what you can do from the outside, and obviously that's not much. <S> Energy efficiency is only slightly reduced in such cases, as airflow into and out of the compartment between panes is minimal, but the aesthetic problem will only get worse. <S> Chances are you can replace just the sash, which might cost about half of what a new window would and doesn't require carpentry work aside from a little hardware swap. <A> I have had the same problem with vinyl frame windows. <S> There is nothing you can do except replace the window. <S> Contact the manufacturer or the contractor that did the orignal install. <S> Most manufacturers offer a warranty against fogging for a certain number of years, so be sure to check that as well. <S> I actually took my windows to a glass shop. <S> They removed the glass and replaced it with a new double pane in the original vinyl sash. <S> This might be cheaper than purchasing a whole new sash, or if the model has been discontinued. <A> In fact, you can clear these windows up. <S> If it is tempered glass , the same procedure is possible if the glass seal can be reached for drilling (this is possible for most windows that can open and close: they'd get drilled from an edge). <S> Check the glass for a frosted or white color marking showing if it is tempered. <S> Since this is a DIY advice site I can direct you to <S> http://foggywindowrepairkits.com/ . <S> The DIY kits mentioned above are over $200, and can't be rented and returned. <S> But really you're probably better off finding a local service company that can do this, possibly with even better techniques.
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With vinyl windows, you can usually replace the entire sash quite easily. If its regular glass, two small holes are drilled and a cleaning solution ( which need not be toxic ) injected.
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Minimalist improvement on tiny shower? I've just moved into an old (1950's) home. The only shower is in a tiny bathroom and it's so small that when I take a shower the shower curtain is stuck to one side of my body and the blinds from a window on the other side of the shower are stuck to the other side of my body. It's very unpleasant, but I don't have the square footage, time, or money to install a new shower. Is there any easy way to make an improvement? If nothing else, I'm thinking of restraining the shower curtain with a 2nd rod or something. For some reason (probably related to airflow or temperature, I don't know) the curtain seems to be sucked inward a bit when the shower is turned on. <Q> I would check on the type of shower curtain they use in hotels that have an arced curtain rod. <S> This would give a slightly more room. <S> The reason the shower curtain sucks in when you turn the water on probably has to do with hot air rising and pulling in cold air at the bottom of the shower. <S> You could also put a layer of opaque material on the window and get rid of the window curtain. <S> Good luck! <A> I suggest looking at a solid shower door. <S> Time and money not withstanding, you could consider changing it into a wet room and get rid of the curtain altogether. <A> The blinds are easy - translucent window privacy film is available, removable if you change your mind, and sticks to the glass, so that deals with the blinds. <S> A shower door would be the obvious full-bore solution to the curtain. <S> Curtain weights (or a weighted curtain) (or, if you happen to get lucky and have a steel/cast iron shower basin, magnets) are a simple approach to the billowing shower curtain. <S> A more rigid/heavier shower curtain (the actual material, as opposed to the added weights at the lower hem) would also help, as it would billow much less. <S> I find the inner layer of multi-layer shower curtains is particularly prone to fluttering about and being annoying, which is why there are none of those in my house <S> (I meet them in hotels occasionally, and don't like them one bit.)
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Try leaving the curtain slightly open at the back of the shower to allow air to enter the shower without pulling the curtain in.
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Shower head with easy on/off switch I am making a new bathroom with tub where I want the shower to have easy on/off system. I can't find such thing at homedepot or lowes. Typically you have to dial the mixer starting from to warm and this is how you turn on/off as well. But I want the mixer to be one settings and ability to shut off shower and turn it on back at the same level (very much like single lever faucet). Is there anything like that available on market? Do I have to improvise otherwise? <Q> There are certainly shower heads with their own flow control valves, and I know such valves used to be available separately to be installed between wall and head. <S> So yes, it probably exists... <S> But it may be hard to find or require importing. <A> Yes, it is available. <S> Unfortunately the only way you can maintain the same temperature setting without hot water delay's is to also install a hot water recirculation pump. <S> Mixing Valve see this link... <S> http://www.deltafaucet.com/smart-solutions/tempassure.html Hot water recirculation pump see this link.... http://www.supplyhouse.com/Grundfos-595916-UP15-10SU7P-TLC-Comfort-Hot-Water-Recirculation-Pump-3-4-NPT-115-V?gclid=CODm_PqOlswCFcJahgodTNAF8 <S> g <A> This will probably be closed as a shopping question, but a search for "shower head on off valve" gives you many results for valves that go in-line between the shower head and feed pipe, such as this from Amazon .
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There are also mixing valves which separate temperature and flow, though most of the ones sold in the US seem to put on/off on the temp control, perhaps for some obscure liability reason.
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Teflon (plumbers tape) to seal hot water pipe leak from the outside? Hi there, This is some piping to my Saxon hot water system. Just above where the white/green corrosion is is where the leak is. My question is, can I use plumbers tape on the outside of this to seal the leak? I do not want to pull it apart as I don't know what I am doing. I am basically after a quick fix and thought plumbers tape (teflon tape) would suffice. If not are there any other options? (other than the obvious in getting a plumber out (again!). <Q> No. <S> It's not adhesive like tape, so it wouldn't stick to the outside of the pipe at all. <S> If you don't know what you're doing, I'd bring in someone who does. <S> Based on the amount of corrosion, it looks like it's been leaking for some time. <S> It could be as simple as tightening the nut, or it might require disassembly and reassembly (possibly with new parts). <A> Your other option is to ditch compression fittings and learn how to sweat (solder) copper pipe. <S> Or if you do have a plumber come out, have them replace every accessible compression fitting with sweat fittings that will never leak ever again. <S> Compression fittings are prone to leakage, even when they aren't eating away your pipes with galvanic action, as you can see they are, with the black patina on that old stub. <S> I'm pretty sure <S> Stack Exchange can help you with every aspect of learning how to solder, and if you're willing to do the work, the cost of the tools and materials will probably be less than a service call, and then you'd have the tools and the talent for work in the future. <S> Having one easy elbow to sweat is a great place to start. <S> If you know anyone who knows how to sweat pipe, they should be able to show you how, and you'd be done, in under an hour: for the cost of a torch, solder, flux, fittings, a piece of sandpaper and a six pack of beer. <A> Wrapping externally with teflon tape wouldn't help. <S> Teflon™ doesn't stick to anything ; the only reason it works when used properly (wrapped on threads before assembly) is that it's squeezed tightly between the external and internal threads (using Teflon reduces friction so the joint can still be fully tightened). <S> The leak is at a compression fitting . <S> The real way to fix this would be to disassemble, clean the nut and seat, trim the last 1" from the end of the copper pipe, install a new ring, and then reassemble the joint. <S> If you can't disassemble it, then you might get away with cleaning off the corrosion with a wire brush and applying some sort of caulk or glue (perhaps an epoxy), but especially as the joint is hot it will be tough to find something that will last. <A> The fitting must be disassembled, cleaned and then apply teflon pipe dope to the threads and tighten snug. <S> Once snug turn 3/4 turn and stop. <S> Over tightening compression fittings will damage the collar under the nut and the pipe. <S> If this does not work the pipe and collar may be damaged and need to be replaced. <A> Your first answer from Been <S> There is the correct action. <S> Shut off your water, undo the fitting, clean off corrosion, apply Teflon pipe dope to threads and retighten. <S> If you still have a leak and have some pipe to work with, cut off the compression ring on the end and install a new compression ring and do the same. <A> You should first turn the water off at the main. <S> ( where the meter is located, usually in the front by the curb) Have a bucket close by to catch what water is left in the pipe. <S> You should be able to turn the bolt just above the corrosion to the left and loosen the connection. <S> Pliers may be needed if it hasn't been loosened in a while. <S> After loosening, it should disconnect enough where you can maneuver the pipe out from under the bolt. <S> Take a look at the pipes condition. <S> If it's threads are still visible and the pipe is still in good shape with the corrosive material mainly where the dripping is on the outside, then u can apply a layer of plumbers tape around the threading and reconnect. <S> The tape otherwise will have no affect on the leak without taking these steps. <S> If the leak continues or the pipe is deteriorating, then disconnecting both ends of the pipe and taking a trip to Home Depot will probably be necessary. <A> You cannot repair this externally with tape, but soldering is not necessary either. <S> Simpler than learning how to properly solder (sweat) fittings together, look into "Shark-Bite" style fittings. <S> These are more costly than soldered fittings but are very simple to install and require no tools. <S> They simply press onto the (clean) ends of a pipe. <S> Depending on the condition of the pipe hiding under the fittings in your photo, you may need to clean it up with sandpaper, or if that is a flared fitting, even cut it off squarely first with a tubing cutter (NOT a hacksaw). <S> I'll let you google for a how-to on shark-bites rather than rambling on here myself. <S> Side note: You will encounter two types of threaded plumbing fittings. <S> Old school iron pipe has tapered threads which become increasingly tighter as the pieces are threaded together. <S> This is where teflon tape is used, to fill any irregularities between the male and female threads of the pieces being joined. <S> Back in the day, before teflon tape became available, "pipe dope" sealant was used. <S> Other fitting types use straight, non-tapered threads to simply pull together two pieces tightly together so that they seal, possibly with a gasket, or a flared end against a mating conical surface, or by compressing a compression ring of soft material (typically copper). <S> The nut shown indicates that the fitting in your photo is a compression fitting (uses straight threads), but without taking it apart we can't see whether it uses a compression ring or a flare.
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"Teflon tape" is used on the threads of joints, not to seal leaks outside of joints. Do not use tape on these, it serves no purpose and just gets in the way.
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Can I use CPVC to make a solar water heaer? I have a shed in my backyard and I have installed a sink on the outside to clean up with. I have run a cold water line to the sink, but would like to attach a "heated" line to the hot water side. I have found a few projects on YOUTUBE about making a solar water heater and they used "black tubing", but never said what kind of black tubing. I know CPVC is used inside of building for hot and cold water applications, but will it withstand direct sunlight. Also know it will be painted black to help heat the water. Thank you for any advice in advance. <Q> Sunlight resistance is not a problem if you're going to be painting it anyway. <S> The real problem is temperature. <S> You're not clear as to how you intend to design the system, but, unless you take specific measures to prevent overheating (e.g. by having a pump that turns on and flushes pipes periodically), pipes can get very hot. <S> Solar heaters are traditionally copper, which can handle boiling water just fine. <S> On the other hand, CPVC is only rated up to about 200 F. Maximum temperature varies depending on pressure and pipe dimensions, but, generally speaking, at 200 F, CPVC piping is barely strong enough to withstand normal water-main pressure. <S> ("Hot water" inside your house is rarely hotter than 140 F.) <S> Other plastics are as bad or even worse <S> (e.g. ABS and PVC are both rated for lower temps than CPVC and PEX).The link in the other answer <S> suggests that PEX might handle 230 F, but it depends on your system (I don't see any pipe dimensions there). <A> Black tubing is ABS. <S> ABS is used for waste lines and not potable water supply lines. <S> PEX is best and easiest to use for potable water supply lines. <S> Copper is best to use for exposed solar lines because the metal will absorb the solar heat quickly and efficiently, but can be costly. <S> Here's a link on PEX used for solar tubing... <S> http://www.builditsolar.com/Experimental/PEXCollector/PEXCollector.htm <A> Of all the normal plumbing materials, by far copper has the best heat exchange characteristics. <S> I would spend the money on the copper tubing for the collector itself. <S> It will pay for itself with the difference in the amount of heat collected. <S> After that, you can pipe to and from the collector with PEX or CPVC if you like. <S> The supply and return lines will have to be thoroughly insulated. <S> Here is where PEX will actually help by having a lower heat coefficient and not lose as much heat going to and from the exchanger. <S> Check Mother Earth News, and Home Power for articles on DIY solar water heaters. <S> Lots of great reading there. <S> Sounds like a fun project. <S> Good,luck! <A> I converted a passive system with a tank above the collector panel to an active system using my immersion heater as the tank, which was situated in the loft below the panel, after the tank started to leak. <S> This worked fine except for the tubing. <S> Some of it was CPVC <S> (1/2")and <S> some was black flexible "rubber" tubing. <S> The CPVC did not stand up to the heat and burst at one stage, giving a damaging flood downstairs. <S> The black flexible tubing did not fare well either, especially at the outlet from the panel where temperatures often exceeded 100C (212F). <S> A little Chinese-made pump, also made of some type of plastic, rated for boiling water, has been fine. <S> However the PVC on the inlet to the immersion heater started to bulge, and a valve became stuck, due to hot water expanding back into the supply. <S> I changed all the pipework around the tank for galvanised and replaced the flexible tube to the panel. <S> The flexible tube has started deteriorating already after a year or so. <S> I also put in a non-return valve on the supply side and a pressure relief valve on the panel, but these have introduced their own problems. <S> The pressure relief valve tended to leak, despite being an expensive brass one. <S> As a result I kept on tightening it and so set the pressure too high. <S> That meant that the pressure built up (because of the non-return valve) and blew out a connection to the rubber tube, luckily above the roof. <S> I now wish that I had gone for copper throughout. <S> It would have beena a lot less trouble and work, even if it would have been more expensive. <S> CPVC and especially PVC, and even the black "rubber" tube can't stand the high temperatures. <S> If there is flexible tube that will stand the heat and is cheaper than copper, I should like to hear about it.
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If the unit overheats from lack of water flow, the superheated water can blow the PEX lines.
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GFCI Problem with Three-Way Switch WAS Two Switches Neutrals Only, Switched Hots Not Used I replaced an old two-prong receptable with a three-prong GFCI (no ground) yesterday. It won't reset. I found out that "downstream" there is a light on the next level down that is controlled by two switches, one at the top of the stairs, one at the bottom. The original receptable is fine (resets, green) as long as that light is not turned on. As soon as it is turned on, the new GFCI receptacle trips. Now for the weird part. I open the light and it has two cables coming in, each with a black, white and pink wire. I assume (not a great idea) these are one cable each from the two switches, and that based on the color they are hot(black), neutral(white) and switched hot (pink). I would have assumed the light fixture's bulb holders would be wired with the switched hots (combined together) as hot (to the bulb holders' black wires) and the white neutrals should be combined and attached to the white of the bulb holders, but they're not. Instead the neutrals (really I should say "white", 'cause who knows what they are) from one cable is fed to the hot of the light holders, and the neutral of the other cable is attached as neutral. Does this make sense? I just bought the house, and the light and switches worked until I installed the GFCI, and the GFCI I just installed doesn't work either. I would have thought that the pink switched hots should be combined and attached to the hot (black of the bulb holders) Of course, if it were that simply, why was it not that way already? Edit: Edit2:When I took the switches out of the boxes so that I could take pictures, not disconnecting anything, the upstream GFCI would not reset, even with the switches open. When I put them back again, it would. Again, it all worked before I changed the two prong outlet upstream with the GFCI. That is the only change I made. When I looked in the 2nd switch box a second time I noticed there were some bare wires, maybe grounds I had not seen before. Is it possible all this is about a ground or a neutral? If so, how do I track it down? Edit 3: Addl pics as requested Edit 4:Add pics of the "unrelated" switch, per request. See below. Bottomline, if I can't figure this out shortly, I'm in trouble with the wife, so I bought another standard, non-GFCI receptable so shortly I'm going to install it. I don't have a ground, but the box is metal and the cable is armored, so I think the receptacle is grounded. I gather I can test by seeing (carefully!) that I get 120V AC across the hot and the box? And if I don't, it's not grounded? Edit5: Adding pics of the missing junction box!! Great catch. <Q> Just because a wire is white doesn't mean it is being used as a neutral especially in an old house. <S> ( I can't tell exactly from your pictures but in the top picture if you have a black, red, and white all attached to a switch <S> then the white wire is most likely a traveler not a neutral. <S> It should be re-identified black, red, or blue.) <S> 3 wire cable in lighting circuits is normally used between 3 way switches. <S> Two of the wires are travelers the other wire could be a hot, neutral, or switch leg. <S> It all depends on the configuration of the circuit and which box is fed first. <S> I would say if everything was working prior to you changing things, go back to the orginal configuration and start over with a working circuit. <S> Take it one step at a time. <S> Good luck! <A> From your description it sounds like you have the intelligence to understand this stuff, but are simply lacking certain nuggets of information. <S> It will all make sense pretty quickly, then. <S> Oh, and one more thing that's a bit harder to uncover: In America, wire colors do not have firm meanings. <S> Green always means ground. <S> White or gray always mean neutral, unless marked or in switch loops and messengers - the goal being to build the necessary circuits with readily available multi-wire cable even though it's the wrong color. <S> "Hot" lines are everything else - including marked whites and (implied) switch-loop whites, and there is no official standard of how to designate certain types of hot. <S> (however in commercial facilities, consistency is required.) <A> On 3-ways, the two gold terminals are the travelers. <S> The one black by itself is a "hot" if you will. <S> On one switch, this hot needs to be attached to power. <S> In your switch box, it looks like what was your neutral is not used. <S> You need to get that neutral to your GFI.
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The circuit neutral is picked up in the light box. Then change one thing at a time and see if everything still works. The other will go to the light hot (black) wire. You'll want to read up a lot on "switch loops" and particularly "3-way switches". Too many novices take everything all apart without taking pictures or making a diagram and then lose their way.
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Why would Central AC, Fridge & Pool Pump All Fail Within 3 Days? Could this be systemic? Something in the electrical system for instance? Or is it likely coincidental? HVAC repair says they can't find a leak but the freon is very low and was fully charged in September. It is 4 ton a/c unit split system with furnace from 1998. Refrigerator repair says it needs a new board of some kind and that it will take 2 weeks to get one. GE Profile fridge from 2004. Pool pump is not diagnosed yet. It did have low pool water level earlier in the week causing air to be sucked in. Pump made a weird whining sound so I shut it off. Should I have house electric checked? <Q> Sounds like a string of bad luck. <S> While an electrical spike/surge will cause problems and failures in the controllers and motors, the freon exists in an enclosed system and therefore this will not cause a leak. <S> The compressor is a hermetically sealed unit, so there are no shaft seals that will cause freon loss. <S> The refrigerator is the most likely to have succumbed to a power spike/surge. <S> Pumps will make weird sounds if there is a lot of air being circulated in the water, when they lose prime (run empty) they can destroy the shaft seal from it running without water to lubricate and take away the heat. <S> Typically, the pump motor will not make noises from power surge/spike damage, it's more likely bearing failure (ball bearing type motors) from water leaking into the bearing through the failed shaft seal. <S> The stalled motor or shorted windings can cause the circuit breaker to trip, though they usually have internal thermal protection that shuts them down, causing the motor to shut off. <A> I believe @Fiasco Labs is correct. <S> In addition to his answer I will add that if your AC repair man says your system is low on refrigerant, but can't find any leaks, it's time for a new repair man. <S> Refrigerant doesn't magically disappear. <S> It's an 18 year old system <S> so it's almost garunteed <S> the leak is in your evaporator coil. <A> A power surge will do this. <S> I suggest to call an electrician to evaluate the circuit panel. <S> Bad circuit breakers could also contribute to these problems.
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The type of failure you see from electrical damage is overheating, shorted windings or failure to start because the start capacitor has been burned out.
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How should I attach a slab of soapstone to iron shelf brackets? I have a 1'×3' slab of soapstone that I'm placing on top of my radiator, creating a shelf: The radiator bears most of the weight, but the stone isn't stable on top of the radiator (the individual pieces of the radiator are rounded at the top, so the stone can wobble up and down). My plan to solve this is to use iron shelving brackets to keep the stone stable, but I'm not sure of the best way to attach the iron brackets to the stone. My dad suggested a silicon sealant . Is that a good choice for bonding the raw iron to the soapstone? I see on Loctite's website that they don't recommend it for iron, so I wasn't sure. Edit: Based on some more investigation, some silicon sealants release acetic acid which can corrode metals, but there are also sealants that don't release it (which I think are called "neutral cure"). I'm still investigating how bad the corrosion is/if the neutral cure version is appropriate for stone. Edit2: Potentially I should use epoxy for this? If someone with enough rep to create tags thinks it's appropriate, this post should probably be tagged with "iron" and "soapstone". <Q> Use the silicone, contrary to some ideas expressed it does stick well to clean smooth surfaces. <S> So well, in fact, that mechanical scraping is often the only way to remove it once cured (actually there are some chemicals, like dimethyl adipate, that soften cured silicone). <S> If the brackets are securely mounted to the wall, silicone will grip like hell and hold that slab of stone firmly in place. <S> Don't worry about the acetic acid, it smells a bit but won't hurt the iron. <S> The soapstone might get discolored a bit but the underside shouldn't be a concern. <A> I don't have enough reputation here to insert a comment, but I just want to say that the radiator will not work properly then. <S> With radiators the heat spread mainly using convective transfer : the heat go up and you are blocking it with the stone. <A> Soapstone is easily worked. <S> I'd drill holes (not all the way through) and tap them with an ordinary tap, (or even a modified screw - soapstone is really easily worked) and use machine screws or stove bolts to fasten the shelf to the brackets. <S> To make a crude tap from a screw, grind the threads off the end and grind slots. <S> Look at a regular tap for guidance. <S> or just buy a regular tap - they are not that expensive. <S> If using screws near the length of the hole you'll need two taps, a regular tap (to get started) and a bottoming tap to cut the threads nearest the bottom of the blind hole. <A> I would use a Polyurethane Construction Adhesive to attach the stone to the brackets. <S> I would also install the brackets so that there is a 1 inch space between the top of the radiator and the bottom of the stone shelf. <S> This would help reduce the heat transfer to the stone, limiting any stress due to thermal expansion of the stone. <A> Silicone is not a particularly good choice for your application, since, one, it's soft (when fully cured, has the consistency of rubber), two, it does not actually stick to surfaces. <S> (And yes, it releases some acetic acid while curing, but in minor quantities, it's a one time thing, and a few drops of acetic acid aka vinegar won't eat a hole through your painted cast-iron radiator.) <S> Your linked loctite silicone is meant for making waterproof seals in gaps (e.g. between sink and countertop), not for structural applications. <S> Even most glues won't work too well between polished soapstone and iron. <S> You could try the polyurethane adhesive suggested by the other answer, possibly after sanding both surfaces. <A> One part room temperature vulcanizing silicone elastomers are commonly of the air moisture reacting, acetic releasing type. <S> This will typically not pose a corrosive problem, unless the acetic vapors are trapped in an enclosure (eg. electrical box). <S> For critical applications in which corroision may be an issue, the less common neutral curing silicone formulations are utilized. <S> Re adhesion: Again, silicones typically fall into adherent and non-adherent types. <S> Silane coupling agents or primers can either be directly incorporated into the base silicone, or can be applied seperately. <S> As previously stated, large size glass fish tanks are typically sealed/bonded using a silicone adhesive/sealant formulation. <S> This material should adhere well to both (clean) soapstone and I assume properly painted iron brackets. <S> Shelf can be seperated from brackets using thin sharp knife. <S> Make sure to mount TV securely if earthquakes are an issue, and leave approx. <S> 1" gap above radiator to help air convect and reduce direct heat conduction.
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A more permanent / sturdy approach would be to drill holes in the bottom surface of the stone block, use epoxy to glue a nut into each hole, and then screw brackets to those nuts once epoxy sets.
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Techniques for Squarely Cutting the End of a PVC Pipe I am replacing a floor drain which required me to saw off the old drain which was cemented to 4" schedule 40 PVC. I had limited room to do this (Please see the picture below; I had broken out the concrete and gravel/earth around the drain), so I used a Dremel with a plastic cutting blade to cut from the inside of the pipe, leaving a slightly jagged pipe end. The new drain has a hub connection that fits over the end of the pipe I've cut. I've read that the end of the pipe should be as square as possible to maximize the quality of the hub connection. Right now the cut isn't square and I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make it square. As such, I have a few questions in one here, because I'm not sure what my options are. How important is the squareness? If one side is off by a third of an inch or so, will this really matter once the hub connection is solvent cemented onto the pipe, considering there will still be a couple of inches or so of bonding surface? If the squareness is important, what are some good ways to cut the pipe, seeing as I have very limited room to work with it from the sides? I have considered sanding/grinding from above until the edge is level. Would the PVC dust be dangerous if I were applying suction from a shop vac (with a HEPA filter and dust bag) and wearing a respirator? I had hopes there would be a tool that could be placed over the end of a 4" pipe and turned to make a squared-off cut. Does any such tool exist? Is there anything at all that can squarely cut 4" pipe without needing much room at the sides of the pipe? <Q> There is a tool that is made for cutting out the PVC pipe in a joint so that it may be used again. <S> That tool may be useful to square up the end of the pipe in this case if you were able to hold the tool inline with the pipe while it shaves off the high part of the pipe. <S> This is what one example of the tool looks like. <S> These are used to chucking up the tool into a good sized electric drill (AC powered is recommended). <S> In your case this may allow you to square off the pipe in your drain if you can hold the tool steady whilst it shaves off the high part. <S> Note that not all PVC pipe shavers are suitable to your situation. <S> Some of them do not have the same type of round slug as shown above. <S> Cheaper ones may just have a thin washer style guide to hold the cutter centered in the pipe. <S> Even the above tool type may not work in your instance if the non-square end of your pipe is too angled. <S> When searching for these the search phrase you want is "PVC fitting saver". <A> Being that you are repairing an unpressurized drain, the squareness of the pipe end is not nearly as critical as a pressurized supply line. <S> Just make sure to clean and prime the pipe prior to applying solvent cement. <S> Additionally, if you have a level handy, lay it across the drain once the fitting is in place to to ensure proper placement. <S> Side note: <S> It may help to know that you aren't really gluing the pipe together, but you are creating what's known as a solvent weld. <A> Well I am a guy that can't cut a straight line. <S> For large pipe (2",3",4" etc.) <S> one good way is to install two stainless steel hose clamps at the cut separated by the width of the saw blade. <S> I use a wood miter saw which has small teeth and a wide blade for a clean cut. <S> For the situation <S> likethe bath tub drain mentioned here in use one stainless steel hose clamp and a file, sander or small saw to cut against the hose clamp. <S> The hose clamps are somewhat self centering but can be positioned at desired marked location of the cut. <S> The stainless steel being harder than the PVC forces the saw to the desired cut location. <S> For smaller size pipe the handheld PVC cutters pay for themselves and take the guess work out of cutting.
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The round slug on the end of the tool keeps the cutter centered in the pipe so that the cutters will shave off the PVC pipe in the coupling.
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Laminate flooring in multi-width bathroom The master bath has several widths as seen below. [The closets will not get laminate flooring.] My guess is to determine the cuts required for each width and choose the best fit. How best to deal with this multi-width situation? A related issue is dealing with the edges at the tub & shower. The tub is in an imitation marble enclosure; the shower is a fiberglass pan. How best to finish those edges? Some details not shown: The "throne room" has a pocket door. The left hand closet has a sliding mirror door. The right hand closet is simply open and carpeted (as is everywhere else). <Q> I second @ChrisCudmore's recommendation of not using laminate in a wet environment. <S> That being said, the rule of thumb for determining plank width is to shoot for your starting and ending widths to be greater than 1/2 a whole plank width. <S> Here's the calculation process: <S> Measure <S> the width of the span Subtract twice the recommended expansion gap Divide by the width of the plank <S> Take your fraction of a plank remainder, add 1, and then divide by two. <S> Multiply by the width of the plank, <S> and there's your starting and ending row widths. <S> For multiple width rooms, do this for all the individual widths, and then pick the option that leaves you with >1/2 a plank width all around. <S> So for example, if you have a room with different widths of say, 67-1/2", 83-3/4", and 71-3/8", using a 5" wide plank you'll end up with starting plank width recommendations of 3-3/8", 3-5/8", and 4-1/16". <S> For example, using 67.5" with 5" wide planks and a 3/8" expansion gap: <S> ( <S> REM((67.5 - 0.375*2)/5)+1)/2 <S> *5 <S> = 3.375 <S> Obviously you can't use all of those, so pick the smallest that doesn't send your largest width over 5". <S> This option works, since none are below 2.5", and none are above 5". <S> If you pick 3.625" starting width, your ending widths will be 3.125", 3.625", and 4.5". <S> This option also works. <S> If you pick 4.0625" starting width, your ending widths will be 2.6875", 3.1875", and 4.0625". <S> This option works, but it's pushing a bit closer to the <2.5" width range, so I'd skip it. <S> So for the above scenario, I'd go with a 3.375" starting width, since it maximizes your minimum starting/ending plank width for the entire floor. <A> NEVER NEVER NEVER <S> NEVER NEVER use laminate in a bathroom. <S> vinyl plank is fine, but not laminate. <S> you will regrete it for every moment you have that floor. <S> the good news is it will only be about a year, because then you will rip it out. <A> I would run them from door toward appliaces, running next to the toilet wall. <S> Use a separation and transition strip for both closets and the toilet. <S> Probably stop before the washer/dryer Leave a decent gap there as washing machines tend to walk <S> and you need to be able to move them away from the wall a bit to tilt them back enough to get the front feet over the flooring. <S> But really: <S> This is a great tiling project. <S> Tile will take you 4 times as long, cost half again more if you use inexpensive tile, and will last forever.
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If you pick 3.375" starting width, your other ending widths will be 3.375", 3.875" and 4.75". Consider choosing a flooring type that is less susceptible to degradation via moisture.
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Mount Ceiling Fan to Old Junction Box? Is there anyway to safely mount a ceiling fan to this type of older ceiling junction box (see the photos)? I rent an old 1920's built house where an old hanging light fixture junction box was covered with a blank panel. I want to hang a ceiling fan in this living room, but when exposed I see this old junction box that is really in the plaster and would be a huge hassle to replace. One photo is how it looked when I first removed the blank cover. You will see the old threaded light fixture mount. With that mount removed as well as some plaster, you can see it is in there pretty well. There is no access from above it since that is a wooded bedroom floor directly upstairs. That junction box appears to be held sturdy by the two rusty-colored head screws (see photo) to a metal cross bar behind it. I am sure my landlord would not be cool with having the ceiling torn apart more to replace this old junction box, so I wanted to see if anyone thinks there is an adapter or way to retrofit and adapt this box to mount a ceiling fan. <Q> Buy a ceiling hugger style fan (the ones without a stem or with the option to mount without the stem). <S> This way the fan is not support by the box at all. <S> Good luck with your project! <A> It looks to me like the current box would come out pretty easily. <S> Some are designed to accommodate surface mounting. <S> Otherwise, it's just a matter of finding the right hardware configuration to mount the fan base bracket to what you have available--apparently the metal bar. <S> You may be able to find longer versions of the screws that are there now. <A> It does not have the the 8-32 screw tabs on two sides. <S> I suggest to remove this old metal box and replace it with a new shallow fan box. <S> Clearly this old box is screwed to a floor or ceiling joist in an old home. <S> The new ceiling box can also be screwed to the joist. <S> Be sure to turn off the power before attempting this or call an electrician. <S> http://www.wayfair.com/HubbellRaco-Round-Ceiling-Fan-Box-295-L269-K~YNB1114.html?refid=GX100545120506-YNB1114&device=c&ptid=154609615740 <A> Close inspection of the pictures reveals that this is a plaster ring mounted to a 4-S or 5-S box. <S> It is a strange plaster ring in that it does not have standard threaded fixture tabs. <S> Open the plaster a bit more to reveal the screws in the corner that hold the ring to the square box below. <S> and away you go. <S> Or, preferably, pull the box and install a fan-rated box.
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I'd probably get a new box of similar dimensions that's intended to carry a fan and mount it to the metal bar basically the same way that the current box does. Because the square box itself appears to be sufficiently anchored, you may be able to install a heavy duty fan rated 4-S/5-S to 4-O plaster ring onto it Mount the fan's bracket directly to the ceiling with toggle bolts or other such fastener. This old electrical box is not rated for modern fans.
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