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Are there any tips to prevent or reduce dust when working with drywall? With regard to patching, sawing, or drilling into/through drywall that is already installed (adding some outlets and ceiling fans), where dust control is a priority (the owner is very tidy), can anyone offer some tips and/or advice for keeping the dust to a minimum? <Q> Here's one small tip <S> : use a sticky note to catch dust from drilling- <S> (courtesy of: http://rebrn.com/re/lpt-use-a-post-it-note-to-catch-dust-when-drilling-2615252/ ) <S> Another tip (for cutting into the ceiling) might be to use a piece of paper or a styrofoam cup to create a cone- taped around a drill or sawzall- <S> ( How to avoid dust when drilling in the ceiling ) <S> Of course attaching a vacuum hose to the tool might work, or it might be so cumbersome that it's not really worth the struggle. <S> Many sanders have a vacuum attachment built in. <S> It has been suggested in a few places that a bit of shaving cream or toothpaste can be applied at or near the area to collect dust. <S> Making cuts with a razor or box cutter is less dusty than a key-hole saw or a sawzall. <S> Obviously, a drop cloth will be necessary, especially for sanding. <S> Open two or more windows <S> (so that air can flow through the house) and set a box fan in the window closest to the area where dust will be generated, blowing outward. <S> Many vacuums will not have fine enough filters to capture all of the dust. <S> Wetsanding is a technique where you use a damp sponge or damp towel to sand patches. <S> And there are low dust drywall compounds (muds). <A> Use a vacuum to suck up the dust as you make it. <S> This will likely require an additional set of hands depending on what you're doing. <S> As cumbersome as it may be, a vacuum will collect not only the large dust particles that fall down, but also the fine dust that's thrown into the air. <S> If you're using a hole saw to cut the ceiling, a dust bowl (or similar product) could be used. <A> You use masking tape to adhere some lightweight poly/plastic sheeting onto the wall directly below your work area, which will catch dust and/or channel it directly into a collector bin. <S> This will reduce dust on the floor/carpet. <S> Some people like to use an oscillating cutting tool to cut holes in drywall for outlets rather than a traditional drywall saw. <S> In combination with a shop-vac, it can make dust management easier. <S> If using a shopvac, be SURE you use a bag for fine particulate. <S> The fine drywall dust will just exhaust out of the vacuum if you don't, creating an enormous mess.
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So a dust collector might be handy to use in conjunction with a vacuum.
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How can I prevent unpleasant smells and organisms in our water tank? There is an 8000 liter water tank on top of my house which provides water for the house. Bacteria, fungi, algae, etc. often start developing in the tank, giving unpleasant smells, etc. The water is ground water that we pump up there with our own pump. The tank is made of concrete and covered with a steel lid. Nobody is drinking or cooking with the water. It's used for stuff like laundry, showers, washing dishes, etc. What can I do to prevent these unpleasant qualities of the water? It's very hot here (like 40 celsius in the shade), and the water tank is in the baking sun. My landlord is unlikely to want to make any large investments. Therefore, cheap solutions are a plus. Edit: Several answers have suggested chlorination, and it seems like the best option. But I live in rural India and it's difficult to find chlorine here. Bleach , though is readily available. Does it seem suitable? I've asked this as a separate question on Chemistry SE. <Q> Besides the suggestions above some things you might try: Oxygenation: a small pump set up in the tank pumping the water into the air gap above water float level you have or an air pump pumping air into the water might help with some of the issues. <S> The pump can be placed on a timer to cut down the electrical expense. <S> Refreshing the water on a regular basis. <S> A tank I set up for a Solar off-the-grid type situation pumped continuously into the tank during the day, (but with solar powered pump, so pumping was free), and the tank had an overflow outlet near the top which could be tapped into drip irrigation system. <S> Water was exchanged continuously, keeping growth down. <S> An alternative to this would be flushing and refilling the tank on a regular maintenance schedule. <S> Lastly, and possibly the best solution, would be simply placing a filter canister with a taste/odor filter cartridge between your tank and rest of the home. <A> You should treat it like a (small) swimming pool. <S> Maintain the free available chlorine (FAC) level between 1 - 3 parts per million (PPM). <S> PPM is basically the same as milligrams per liter. <S> So for 8000 liters you need 8 - 24 grams of chlorine. <S> I would use calcium hypochorite powder/granules, which is commonly 65% Ca(ClO)2 by weight; so you will need 12.3 - 36.9 grams to treat your tank (see video about adding Ca(ClO)2 to pools). <S> Of course this is a little over simplified. <S> You will need to add chlorine after you add water and as chlorine evaporates. <S> Monitoring chlorine levels and keeping everything balanced takes some extra equipment and it's too lengthy to write all of it up here, but you should have a pool pump and filter and a pool chemistry test kit (see video for info about the kit). <S> Regarding a pool pump, I don't think that you need something heavy duty... <S> for example, a cheap and easy pool pump like this (Intex Cartridge Filter Pump) <S> should work fine: <S> You should probably make a shelter or use a dog-house if you decide to get this (particularly cheap) pump; keeping it from being exposed to weather will make it last much longer. <S> Also, setting it on a timer (like 4 hours per day) would probably be enough to keep the water circulated and again, extend the life of the pump. <S> And be sure to keep an eye on the filter; I'm not sure how often it will need to be changed, but I would guess (probably) twice a year. <A> Since this is for a "not for drinking", unfiltered, untreated, non-potable water storage tank. <S> It seems your goal is just to reduce the levels of bacteria/fungi/algae in the water. <S> If you can get the interior water temperature over 50 deg C, you start killing off the stuff living in the water. <S> With 40 deg C in the shade, it sounds like you have lots of free solar energy to heat the storage tank with, something like a thermosiphon could work. <S> Another thing that should help is putting a large coil of bare copper wire in the water, when the large surface area of copper slowly starts corroding, it will flood the water with copper ions known to kill off bacteria and algae. <A> Even though you are not drinking this water, you are using it for showers and for washing dishes - so it probably needs to be treated nearly as seriously as drinking water. <S> The main methods are filtration, treatment with floculants, thermal treatment and chlorination. <S> Chlorine is present in most disinfected drinking-water at concentrations of 0.2–1 <S> mg/litre <S> The World Health Organisation (WHO) publish "A toolkit for monitoring and evaluating household water treatment and safe storage programmes" (HWTS): <S> Several HWTS methods have been proven to significantly improve drinking-water quality in the laboratory and in field trials in developing countries . <S> These HWTS methods include filtration, chemical disinfection, disinfection with heat (boiling, pasteurization) and flocculants/ disinfectants. <S> In addition, a combination of these methods may be used to increase the efficacy of treatment. <S> ... <S> Note that WHO cite "low cost" as an advantage of chlorination.
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This may seem daunting, but I believe that this tank will be easier to maintain than an actual swimming pool because you will be using/replacing the water, so you will get familiar with adding chlorine once in a while or as you fill the tank. Chlorination is a widely used method.
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How to add a gfci and surge protector to pool pump line? I want to add a gfci and surge protector to the 240v circuit for my pool pump. The 12 guage power wires (red and black) and ground (green) run from the corner of yard directly to the main breaker panel on the house, to a thin 20 amp double pole breaker. I would like to add a small ‘sub panel’ in the corner and was figuring I would need a 20 amp double pole gfci breaker and a 20 amp double pole breaker for the surge protector. I would assume I hook the red wire to one feed and the black to the other, the green to the ground bus, snap in the gfci and run the red and black and ground to the 240v pump. What do I do with the white neutrals from the gfci and surge protector? I am guessing they to the ground bus since the ground runs straight back to the main panel, but I would rather be sure than BBQ something, maybe myself. Assuming that is good, I would also like to add another single pole 20 amp breaker to the sub-panel for a 110 outlet. Can I run the neutral wire for that circuit to the ground bus in the sub panel also? Thank you! Update: 6/4/16:Thank ALL of you for your comments. I really do appreciate the great advice and am very grateful for the help. Please know that spending your time helping others makes a real difference :) Revised plan, after your comments and reviewing Article 680 NEC: (1) Install a 20 amp GFCI at the main breaker panel for the dedicated 240 line for the pool pump. Neutral wire from GFCI attaches to ground/neutral bus which is the same at the main. (2) Add 240 Disconnect by pool pump. (3) Add Intermatic PS3000 surge protector by connecting it to disconnect. Called Intermatic and they said I can just wire it at the Disconnect by connecting to the red and black 120 lines, and the surge protector neutral to the 240 ground. This seems to make sense since the 240 ground runs directly back to the main ground/neutral bus (let me if this was bad advice!) (4) Use a separate 20 amp 110 circuit for pool light and accessories. (5) Add a whole house surge protector at the main box (will require replacing panel since no more space). Pool pump is about 75' from the main breaker and I have read it is better to have protection at the main panel and also at the equipment. The new pump is a Pentair variable speed which seems to high a high rate of failure due to the electronics on the pump which are apparently sensitive and the price of a new pump to replace. (6) After doing the wiring and plumbing, I plan to have a pool professional or licensed electrician to perform the final connect and start up, which will help with warranty. I am in Fort Lauderdale, FL if anyone has a recommendation! Thank you! <Q> This would be the safest way. <S> I voted up because it is easy to swap an old non GFCI for a GFCI protected breaker and this will make the current pool service much safer. <A> You don't currently have that in the two-pole breaker enclosure that you have now. <S> DON'T attach a GFCI neutral (white wire) to the ground bus. <S> This is a violation of the code and can be dangerous as it puts neutral current on the ground wire. <S> If you buy a two pole GFCI it can directly replace your current breaker as recommended by Ed Beal if you have a neutral to the enclosure. <S> (Apparently, they use the neutral to power the electronics to make the breaker work.) <S> This will make the pump circuit much safer than non-GFCI. <S> If you need a 120 volt circuit in the yard you will need another circuit run since the feed to the pool pump is 240 volts and has no neutral. <S> (See the many other questions and answers here regarding setting a sub panel if that is your choice.) <S> Personally, I would just run another circuit out into the yard. <S> There are very precise requirements, regarding distances from the pool, for convenience receptacles near a pool. <S> Consult Article 680 of the National Electrical Code. <S> Taken step by step this can all be accomplished safely by someone with moderate skill and attention to detail. <S> If you feel overwhelmed, consult with a professional electrician. <S> Good luck! <A> By code, neutral and ground must only be bonded at the main panel (or main disconnect if separate). <S> You cannot have them bonded at the sub.
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A surge protector should be located close to your service this would then protect everything not just the pool. You can change out the old breaker feeding the pump. The white wires from a GFCI or surge protector need to go to a neutral bus that is isolated from the ground bus in a sub-panel. You cannot connect a sub-panel with only 3 wires unless it is 240 volt only (no neutral).
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How to mount a white board on a wall without making holes in the wall? I'm planning on buying a big white board to put on my bedroom wall. I don't want to commit to it though, so I don't want to nail it to the wall. Does anyone know of a non permanent solution to fix the board to the wall? EDIT: Haven't bought the board yet, so I don't know the weight. Dimensions will probably be around 72" by 40" <Q> I have had a lot of success with those "Command" adhesives from 3M, but it entirely depends on how heavy it is. <S> If you are not familiar with them they have a tab that allows them to break their glue bond by stretching the material <S> and I have not had any leave marks on the wall. <S> They are available at about any hardware store. <S> They have a weight rating on the package <S> and I would figure half that. <A> Just get a whiteboard adhesive roll. <S> You can make it the entire wall if you want. <S> And you can easily remove it and reuse it in another location. <S> adhesive whiteboard roll Amazon <A> You can hang whiteboard with industrial strength velcro. <S> I buy the role at Home Depot that is rated to hold 10 lbs. <S> Because it is attaching to the wall, there is not 10 lbs of weight actually on the velcro strips. <S> I put them on every corner and one in the center top and bottom and left and right. <S> It hold great, we do this in our school for classrooms. <S> It works perfectly. <S> I buy the channel guides and put them around the whiteboard to protect the edges (the whiteboard at Home Depot and Lowes will bend easily at the corners and sides). <S> Or you can trim them, like a frame. <S> Works great, hope this helps someone. <A> Some ideas: Buy an easel and set it on that.
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Build an easel-like frame and set it on that.
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soldering pipe with mapp gas I am trying to open up some solder joints on a 1/2" residential cold water line, and I am having trouble doing so. I am using a propane torch, and I confirmed that the pipe was evacuated. My brother says that some plumbers use solder with a higher melting point and MAPP gas. Is this true? The concept of this seems like a bad idea for so many reasons and I'm concerned about burning a hole in my pipe. I also don't like the idea of using a much dirtier gas indoors. Is MAPP gas the way to go, or should I try something else? <Q> If it is copper pipe and was indeed soldered (using a tin-lead alloy or a more modern lead-free solder ), then propane should work okay. <S> However, MAPP (originally methylacetylene-propadiene propane but now stabilized liquefied petroleum gas with propylene) will heat faster and, with a common sense caution, not melt the pipe. <S> That is, don't heat the pipe until it is yellow hot; red or orange is fine. <S> You need not worry about the exhaust: in all cases the result is water vapor and carbon dioxide. <S> Just like when animals exhale. <A> MAPP gas is the way to go. <S> It burns hotter, so It will heat the pipe faster. <S> It will even heat the pipe if there's a bit of water in the line, something that propane will not do. <S> If you're worried about burning surrounding materials, you can use a heat shield . <S> There are all different types, sizes, and styles from many different manufacturers. <S> This is just one example. <A> i would say that regular propane gas,use flux,heat it evenly and the solder wil get to meltin and flow <S> i have used it before and just make sure you stuff some light bread in the pipe to keep the water from dripping, <S> since you already have the mapp dont get it to hot keep the flame a distance
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If the pipe was brazed with silver solder, which is common in HVAC systems, propane is not enough: you have to use MAPP to get it hot enough to work. Propane and MAPP both burn completely.
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Difference between $50 and $175 breaker I have a Zinsko outdoor panel with a 100 amp breaker for the garage and 125 amp breaker for the cottage. The breakers are bad, so checked into replacing them. It seems a Zinco or Connecticut electric breaker is $175 or more each as compared to any other brand that are about $50 each. Wondering what the difference is between these breakers and inexpensive breakers, zinas I'm contemplating replacing the panel and breakers with Siemens, Square D, etc., as panel and breakers would be $200 total. And if the breakers need to be replaced again due to being near salt water ocean, cost would be 1/3 of a $175 breaker. <Q> The reason why Zinsco/compatible breakers are so gosh darn expensive is because Zinsco panels are obsolete and have a somewhat checkered field failure history -- while they do not suffer as badly from the issues that plague FPE's line of non-breakers, the Zinsco breaker line still has some of the same problems: namely miscalibration (i.e. failure to trip under low to moderate overload conditions) and breaker-to-busbar arcing/overheating damage. <S> As to a replacement type: the resistance of modern electrical grade aluminum alloy (AA-8000) to salt air corrosion (pitting) is unknown, but presumed to be poor -- also, salt air and current drive can aggravate galvanic corrosion of aluminum, weighing against the use of unplated aluminum busbars in salt air, and also against zinc-plated aluminum (the standard for aluminum busbar panels) due to bimetallic effects. <S> This leaves us with copper busbar panel options; some use various forms of plated busbars (either silver flashed or tin plated copper), while others use a bare copper busbar. <S> While silvered contacts are generally considered to have excellent corrosion performance overall (tarnish is conductive enough in thin layers that it doesn't impact contact performance the way oxides do), the presence of chlorides (salt spray) can result in nonconductive silver chloride being present. <S> On the other hand, tin plating withstands salt attack very well in salt spray tests, <S> and so does bare copper. <S> Another factor is that if the existing enclosure is appropriately weatherproof and in good condition, an Eaton retrofit kit can be installed by an electrician to convert the existing panel to a type CH (copper bus BR is not available in the retrofit kits). <S> Of course, if the enclosure's shot and needs replacing, then replace it. <A> Supply vs Demand Zinsco panels/breakers are no longer manufactured because of product defect. <S> Thus, businesses will markup the prices for them. <S> Replacement <S> Assuming the outdoor panel is your main panel, replacing the outdated, defected panel should be a relatively simple job using a modern Main Breaker panel sized accordingly. <S> The Utility Company can disconnect the meter for free so you or a licensed electrician can replace the panel and breakers. <S> This is called a disconnect/reconnect panel upgrade. <S> The Utility Co. might require a permit for reconnect. <S> Verify this with them as to avoid any problems. <A> Most 1960s era panels are still sold today (BRyant, CH, QO, GE, Murray), but FPE and Zinsco died an early death because of serious design problems that makes them unfit for continued service. <S> Ford Pinto parts are also expensive. <S> The good news is, what you have there is a meter main . <S> It's a meter with a main breaker and a few more breaker spaces for auxiliary breakers. <S> That's pretty easy to replace <S> - it's impossible to de-energize, so you do need to have the service drop removed. <S> That means you can DIY it with confidence, since it'll be fully de-energized <S> and it will be inspected by the power company before they light it up again. <S> So I would junk it post-haste. <S> If your main panel does have a main breaker, you could eliminate the "main" part of it, and have it simply be a meter pan. <S> Those tend to do better in the weather. <S> Feed unbreakered hot straight into your former subpanel, then feed the garage from that. <S> Having the breakers indoors will do wonders for their service life. <S> While you're at it, make sure the grounding is set up correctly. <S> Those requirements have changed since Zinsco was in business.
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The high price of breakers isn't quality , it's scarcity .
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Using Zinzer BIN primer (shellac base) on previously waxed pine furniture I have a piece of pine furniture that has been waxed (not stained) that I have been wanting to paint for years. Finally started the project. I tried sanding, but the sand paper got coated with the wax, so not very successful on that end. I was told I should scrub the wax off using mineral spirits, then go over it with the BIN's with shellac incorporated in it. WOW, is it THIN! So, my questions are: Do I need to remove the wax first then prime with BIN, then paint (latex paint)? Can I skip the mineral spirits, do the BIN's and paint - will paint adhere if wax is still left on? What is the best way to apply this runny BIN stuff? I'm doing this in my condo carpeted living room-LOTS of plastic on floor. Is there a better easier way? <Q> I believe that this will end up in the wood working SE, but it should be noted that furniture wax is really wax like from a candle; it could be beeswax or petrol (it's not like floor wax which is definitely not wax). <S> Wax is "non-polar". <S> Wax can be cleaned with naptha or paint thinner, which are also non-polar molecules (like dissolves like), but that might make cause the wax to penetrate more deeply into the wood. <S> The same might be true with heating (as Ed Beal suggested) but I wouldn't dare use a heater (or even a hair dryer) near acetone (boom). <S> The Zinzer BIN shellac is true shellac (meaning it comes from the insect) <S> and it is alcohol (semi-polar) soluble. <S> So you need to use a non polar solvent, something like naptha to remove wax, and then you will need to remove the naptha or paint thinner from the wood. <S> Acetone mixes with both nonpolar and polar subtances. <S> Acetone can dissolve a naptha-wax mix, and it will dry more quickly than naptha, and acetone and ethanol (shellac base) are miscible. <S> And acetone can help (a little) with allowing ethanol and naptha to mix (but not very much). <S> After stripping the furniture with a non polar solvent, you should use acetone to rinse out the non polar solvent, then let it dry (kiln dried would be best). <S> Another non-polar solvent that might help would be diethyl ether, but that's even more flammable than acetone. <S> Prepping the wood for asorbing ethanol: I would consider (as a last step) applying/cleaning the wood with a 50/50 water alcohol mix (with a rag) a few times, and then letting the wood dry. <S> After a few treatments it might help prepare the grain for absorbing the alcohol/shellac. <S> Water will probably discolor the surface of the pine, so you should be prepared to sand (lightly) before applying the shellac. <A> The wax has to be removed. <S> It's too slippery for anything to stick to it. <S> Paint thinner will liquefy the wax and you can soak it up with newspapers or paper towels. <S> The shellac primer will then form a barrier to seal the latex paint from getting down into the wood/wax/finish. <S> I like to use it in spray can and put on several light coats. <A> This may sound diferent, but you want to save a waxed piece so DONT SAND caps intended! <S> Get a heat gun for stripping paint it will melt the wax and reduce it to the point spirits or acetone will take it off, some times MEK Methyl Eythel Keytone is needed (use out doors with gloves) let the wood dry once the wax is gone. <S> Now you might want do do a very light sanding 320 to 400 grit as the wax may have filled voids (grain) now open at this point anything should stick and last years , on natural finishes I like oils, on painted smothe surfaces I like enamels. <S> With a good removal of the wax then a very light sand you can make a old piece look better than new because older wood just has tighter grain than what we can buy today.
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Wax will not readily dissolve (well) in alcohol and shellac will not dissolve in anything but alcohol (not water nor naptha).
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How to hang electric fence from posts? I need to make some posts for a small electric fence (designed for small animals / gardens) in my backyard. This just encloses my vegetable garden to keep out rabbits. My wire is aluminum. I want to use rebar and/or PVC plastic conduit (the grey electrical variety) for the posts, but I don't know what to use to hang the aluminum wire. I need to run 3 stands of wire approx. 3" apart at heights of 5", 8" & 11" off the ground. Some type of plastic hook that could wrap around the conduit or rebar would be ideal. If using just rebar, the aluminum wire would have to hang away from the rebar without touching it. I've looked at some different types of pipe clamps but haven't found anything suitable yet. It would be great if I could move these clamps / hooks up and down the posts to adjust the height of the wires from time to time. Any suggestions? <Q> You could cut a notch (like 1/4 pipe depth) in the pipe and just wrap the wire around the pipe, tucking it into the notch. <A> Your local farm supply will have fiberglass stakes and spring clip insulators for this. <S> For rabbits, the stakes may be too long at 4' so cut them in half to double your stake count. <A> Depending on how sturdy the fence needs to be you could cut the plastic conduit to a point and hammer it into the ground. <S> Then use plastic wire ties to secure the fence wire to the plastic pipe. <S> If you used two ties in an "X" it would hold the wire in place but still slide up and down if adjustment is needed.
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If you need a sturdier fence you could put smaller metal conduit in as posts then slip plastic conduit over it as an insulator.
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How to finish drywall under stair treads and risers seamlessly? I'm a homeowner who's building new home and am in the process of finishing drywall against a staircase. We're trying to get the stair treads and risers to meet the drywall seamlessly and without trim or casing. In order to accomplish this, ( the drywall below the treads and against the risers ) it seems like tear away bead is the best bet. Questions Is tear away bead the recommended way to finish the drywall in this use case? If not, is there a better way? There is going to be vibrations from people waking on the steps. Would J bead be more appropriate? <Q> Since your goal is not to use any trim, we can't cover it up. <S> You need something that will look like drywall after you paint it. <S> If you use joint compound / putties it will crack at the seams if the steps budge/give. <S> What about paintable caulk? <S> It'll maintain its elasticity so it won't crack, it'll seal the edge, and it'll look like drywall after its painted. <A> Really, your situation is no different than thousands of others with drywall under the stair trim. <S> The key difference is that you're trying for a good fit of the drywall against the woodwork. <S> This doesn't mean you're more likely to have cracks if it's done properly. <S> I would do three things to make this happen: <S> Be sure the stringer on that face is well supported and completely rigid. <S> Any bounce will result in eventual drywall damage. <S> Fill framing voids with construction adhesive to prevent settling and other movement. <S> Wrap all edges with standard steel corner bead. <S> Keep it tight against the treads and risers, so any pressure from foot traffic can't move it. <S> Consider embedding those edges in construction adhesive for full support. <S> Be sure that all bead is perfectly level and plumb, as your woodwork will need to fit it exactly. <S> Also make sure it's on plane with the other stringers' surfaces. <S> Install your treads with a bead of construction adhesive supporting the ends well and transferring load only to lumber, so that no pressure is applied to the corner bead. <S> Finish the wall using a high-quality compound, possibly a setting type, for maximum crack resistance. <S> I believe that if you do these things you'll have a good outcome. <A> What are you doing won't work. <S> The flex in the treads, risers and the outside faces of the drywall will lead to eternal cracking. <S> The only way to do it is to replace the drywall with same thickness plywood (with a finished face). <S> It's not as hard as you might think. <S> You just need to go slow and use good templating technique. <S> Bevel all the joints with the risers, and glue everything together with a good quality carpenters glue. <S> This way everything can get nailed, backed and glued. <S> This will stop the movement that causes the fracturing. <S> Then, where the stair stringer face meets the rest of the drywall (after the top stop or whatever) you transition back to drywall. <S> Sand all and prime/paint like drywall. <S> I have done many of these over the years, and this is the only way it works long term. <S> There is nothing worse in a modern, clean staircase than having cracks.
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Tape (use self-adherent mesh tape) the plywood-to-drywall joint just like a standard drywall butt joint, and roll a coat of thinned out drywall mud over the plywood to get the same overall surface as the drywall.
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Is it safe to have two circuits passing through one junction box? So I found the following circuit diagram in my home. After receiving a fun little shock, I found that someone was using 14/3 cabling to carry 2 different circuits to this 1 gang box (line on left, load on right). Since the load for Circuit 2 doesn't have a matching neutral, it's connected to Circuit 1's neutral line. And before you ask, Circuit 1 and 2 are not MWBC circuits. Each one can be turned on/off independently. I'm presuming that this only works because the hot wires are on different phases, but this level of electrical work is a little over my head. This doesn't seem to be very safe, though it hasn't caused a fire for (presumably) a number of years. How do I go about fixing this so that it is safe? I realize this can be and maybe should be fixed using a double pole breaker, which is certainly possible given they are neighbors in the breaker box, however I would like to keep them separate so I don't need to shut off power to half the house to work on an outlet (e.g. the circuits in the house are already on the large side of what I'd like). <Q> Though it sounds like yours is not. <S> First, the ungrounded (hot) conductors must be on separate legs of the service. <S> To fix the problem, install an appropriately sized double pole breaker. <S> The red wire will connect to one pole, and the black to the other. <S> That way both circuits will always be turned on/off at the same time. <A> That is precisely a Multi-Wire Branch Circuit (or MWBC). <S> Those are defined as exactly what you drew: 2 hots that share a neutral up to a point. <S> Your setup is fine, but with one problem. <S> It's not the breakers. <S> When you removed that outlet, you interrupted the neutral for the other half of the circuit. <S> Around 2002, they changed Code to prohibit MWBC neutrals from going through any device. <S> That way you can remove the outlet without breaking the neutral. <S> This is important - Do that ASAP . <S> Here's the right way: <S> You only need to pigtail the neutral. <S> (and ground of course.) <S> In 2008, they realized electricians were not doing the pigtailing properly, so they added another rule - that there must be a manual disconnect switch, and it must shut off both legs of the MWBC together. <S> Typically you use an approved "handle tie" - a $2 piece of plastic or metal that fits between two breakers. <S> A 2-pole breaker is an expensive way to do that same thing. <S> This rule does not apply to you if your work is prior to your state adopting 2008 NEC. <S> That means the 2 breakers occupy the same 2 spaces a 2-pole breaker would. <S> An approved handle-tie (for that breaker type) will enforce that for you. <S> Properly set up, they only carry the difference in current flows, which is quite efficient use of copper! <S> Also - next time you work on a circuit, make sure it isn't also a MWBC. <S> This guy loved them, clearly, but he didn't love pigtailing. <A> As an answer to the last part of your updated question: If you want two separate breakers instead of a double-pole breaker, you will need to rewire from the panel to the point at which the circuits currently diverge from the 14/3 wiring so that there are truly two separate circuits without a shared neutral. <S> I would recommend an electrician for this type of work unless you are prepared to invest some serious time learning the NEC and acquiring the necessary permits.
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Secondly, the breaker(s) protecting the circuit must have the handles tied together, or a double pole breaker should be used. That's what's known as a Multi-wire Branch Circuit, and it's perfectly acceptable if done properly. You must "pigtail" neutrals - bring them all together in a splice, and add a short wire to the outlet. It is vital that these two "hots" absolutely must be on opposite poles. The breakers are fine if your work is pre-2008.
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Tester showing ground, but I am not seeing a ground In the original portion of my 1940's house, I have three outlets that have wires being ran using conduit. When I test them using a three prong tester, it shows that they are grounded, but when I open them up there is no ground running from the outlet to the metal box. Why or how does the tester show the outlet grounded? <Q> Have confidence in that. <S> Metallic conduit is a higher standard, used in most commercial installations. <S> Ground is the conduit itself - you don't see many green or bare wires in conduit work. <S> However - the outlet screws as the only ground path is not OK. <S> Pigtail a ground wire from the junction box. <S> Most boxes have have one hole tapped 10-32, for a ground screw... <S> here are fancy ones . <S> Do not use 10-24 or a sheet metal screw! <S> Also go downstairs and make sure the ground path is solid - i.e. all the conduit splices are tightened. <S> If something makes you nervous, you can double it by running a ground wire, that's the beauty of conduit, you just can! <A> Metallic conduit can act as a ground path to the box, and the outlet is then grounded because it is in contact with the box(and held in firm contact by its mounting bolts). <S> Traditional, conforms to code. <S> I'm personally not as happy with it as I would be with a real ground wire and have tended to install GFCI outlets in these locations when I notice them on the belt-and-suspenders principle. <A> There is a type of device (receptacle, switch, ...) <S> that is called "self-grounding" that is used in these applications -- there is a spring clip on each end that is pressed firmly against the box wall by the mounting screw at that end. <S> It appears that your receptacle lacks that -- which means either a bare ground pigtail from the green screw to a 10-32 screwed into the box should be installed, or your receptacle should be replaced with a self-grounding type. <S> As to the fact you have conduit -- yes, metallic conduit is allowed to serve as a ground path instead of a wire -- <S> and in many ways, it is a higher standard: you can add wires without having to rerun cable, and you can't accidentally put a nail into a wire either. <S> There is one problem though, and that is that the thin type of "conduit" that has come into wide use recently, known as Electrical Metallic Tubing or EMT, eschews the pipe-style threaded joints of regular conduit (RMC or IMC) in favor of a set-screw connection that while easy to make up in the field, has an annoying habit of coming apart over time, breaking the ground path.
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To keep a bare wire from hitting the side screws (even if you use stabs), wrap the outlet with tape.
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Can I connect a GFCI outlet's ground screw to the neutral wire if no ground wire is available? I noticed with a two wire cable (with a ground), the ground and neutral wires in the circuit breaker box all connect together. If I have a two wire only cable to a new three wire receptacle can I install a jumper from the neutral to the ground terminal in the receptacle box with the same results? <Q> Although the neutral wire will generally be near ground potential, there are some situations where it might not be. <S> For example, when switching on a large motor, the voltage on the neutral wire may jump briefly but significantly. <S> Further, if the neutral wire breaks between a device and the panel, it will very likely end up with full line voltage on it. <S> If the neutral wire were bonded to the ground terminal on a piece of equipment, any voltage on it could shock anyone touching the equipment. <S> Because the current would be flowing on the ground wire which the ground-fault interrupter does not switch, the GFCI would provide no protection against it. <S> A GFCI used in such fashion will not detect some failure modes that would be detected if the grounding wire were bonded to neutral but <S> the danger of putting neutral voltage on the ground wire exceeds the safety gain from catching those particular failure modes. <S> It would be helpful if someone were to sell a GFI which was designed to connect ground to neutral well enough to trip the detector immediately if a device has a leak between its hot and ground leads, but not well enough to pose a dangerous condition. <S> I am unaware of any such devices being for sale, however. <A> Short answer: NO Bonding the neutral and the ground anywhere <S> but the service is prohibited. <S> This puts neutral current on the ground wire that people expect to be safe under normal conditions. <S> I know they go the same place, but they serve two completely different functions. <S> Good luck! <A> Long story short, if you have no proper source of ground, then the proper choice is to use a GFCI with no ground bonded at all. <S> Why this is okay is interesting though: <S> Suppose you have a metal tool with a ground fault. <S> If you are totally isolated from any grounding conductor while using the tool, you will never know it has a fault. <S> Once you become grounded, then the GFCI will sense a fault and trip. <S> The only real difference you would see between the two scenarios is if the fault is really low impedance. <S> If there were a proper ground, then the breaker would trip immediately with an arc at the receptacle when the tool was plugged in GFCI or <S> no. <S> Now you will not get that immediate shut off. <S> Instead either you will become part of the path and the GFCI will trip, or you will place the tool against something grounded, at which point there will be an arc at the tool and the breaker will trip. <S> So it's not as good having a ground conductor, but it's acceptable (and it meets code requirements) to install that way. <S> But <S> ONLY if there's no ground available at all. <S> That is to say that you can't skip wiring the ground just because. <S> [EDIT] <S> As Hot Licks says in the comments, make sure to label the receptacle that it is not grounded. :)
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The accepted way to handle the situation where no ground is available is to use a GFCI with its ground lead attached to nothing but with a label affixed reading "NO EQUIPMENT GROUND".
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Why is this switch box wired like a 3-way when there's no other switch? I have a switch box that has two 12/3 cables coming into it. This switch controls a wall outlet (both top/bottom) that has a 12/2 coming in. There is no ground for switch or outlet. At the switch, black wires are spliced together and red wires are spliced together and connected to switch. 2 white wires are pigtailed. My big picture task is to take off switch control for outlet and replace switch with a dimmer for new recessed lighting (pulling power somewhere from circuit). My confusion is that there is no other switch controlling the outlet or any other light/fan to be found. Yet again, the outlet only has a 12/2 coming in so I must be missing a junction somewhere. Why is the switch wired with two 12/3? Any thoughts appreciated. NOTE: 2 PIGTAILED WHITE WIRES IN BACK OF BOX <Q> Your switch only has 2 wires going to it. <S> The black is most likely the hot and the red is the switched <S> hot.this is not unusual. <S> The box looks to be metal so it is probably acting as the ground through the conduit. <S> I am not sure why you think it is a 3 way. <A> On first hand, it seems like the receptacle is missing its neutral and ground wires. <S> Make sure he checks it out for real, not just plug in your missing neutral and call it a day. <S> Your receptacle has the little metal tab across the two live connections broken off, meaning that the two receptacles can be powered from separate wires. <S> There are two common reasons for this: <S> This circuit is powered from a dual-pole circuit, meaning that the two live ends of the receptacles are connected to opposite legs of the supply. <S> The benefit of this is that the two outlets can provide the maximum current of the circuit (12 ga. <S> usually gives you A), while sharing the neutral connector, requiring one fewer conductor to run. <S> This is common for circuits that have high-power requirements, such as kitchen counters and garages or workshops. <S> The circuit is powered from the same single-pole circuit, but one of the two wires is switched (the red by convention). <S> This is more common in bedrooms and living rooms, where, the lower circuit (by convention; often red) can power a lamp that can be switched on or off remotely, while the upper outlet stays on. <S> Usually you would put black tape on both of the red wire's ends, to reassure the next electrician that this wire is fed from the same circuit, so they should not expect a dual-pole breaker. <S> It is not unusual to have 15A receptacles connected to 20A circuits, unless there is only a single outlet in the circuit. <A> This setup doesn't make sense without finding what the wires connect to. <S> You've got two red and two black wires. <S> Any sane setup would have black as hot and red as switched hot. <S> However, if that is the case, the splice doesn't make sense. <S> The cable with the incoming hot would have a returning switched hot. <S> Ok. <S> This used to be normal. <S> The neutral was just not extended to your switch. <S> But the other cable would then have a hot and a switched hot. <S> Without a neutral, it would be useless. <S> The only way I see it making sense is if the two outlets used to be on two different switches in the same box. <S> And then deciding to combine it in a single switch controlling both outlets.
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So someone ran two extensions from the outlet to a double switch on two cables, each having a hot and a switched hot. Usually, the neutral splice you see in the junction box would be connected to the neutral of the recepctacle, but unless you know for sure that the circuit is not tricked out or not up to code, you should have an electrician check it out. The most common rationale is that a 5A difference is not enough to be a risk to the device (where most devices that can fail in a dangerous way if the device pulls more than 15A but less than 20A have to rely on something other than the breaker to be rated as safe) and almost, if not all 15A receptacles from reputable manufacturers are made to the same standards and tests as 20A receptacles.
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Is it more work to replace or remove a skylight? We have a 20 year old leaking skylight, and right now I am contemplating either removing or replacing it. Not exactly sure why it is leaking, perhaps the flashing is bad, but it's leaked for a while. One thought was perhaps it had to do with the actual skylight mechanism (this one used to open) So I'm thinking of replacing it with a sealed one or roofing over it. I've read a bit about the latter, and it seams to do it properly it's quite a bit of work, you have to tear out the framing structure, so that air flows to the peak, and make sure it is sealed an insulated like the rest of the structure. On the other hand, replacing the skylight will require re - flashing and perhaps changing the size of the frame a bit. <Q> Find the leak. <S> FLashing and sealant can be replaced a lot more easily than a whole new unit, not to mention the difference in cost and time. <S> Similarly, if there's a leak where the glass (and frame) separates from the support frame as you open the skylight, address that specifically. <S> Never start out by attempting the most expensive solution. <A> You don't need to do any framing to tear out the skylight, but to do it right <S> you should remove the sheet rock from the skylight walls, and repair the hole in the ceiling. <S> If you replace the skylight, go with the velux (or similar price point brand). <S> The flashing kits that are made to go with them use step flash and are very effective in preventing leaks. <A> The best way is to install a curb mounted skylight. <S> Almost all new skylights are done this way. <S> A wooden frame, usually from 2x4s, is mounted, sealed and flashed, then the skylight mounted on top of the curb with screws. <S> If there is ever a problem with the skylight it can be replaced in minutes. <S> Most often problems occur with how the skylight was mounted to the roof. <S> Get an installer who guarantees the roof work for life, then buy a skylight quaranteed for life <S> and you'll never have a worry.
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If it's a composite roof, I think it's a little more work to roof over the skylight just because of the interior sheet rock repair, but much more expensive to buy a new skylight. The real answer is: Don't do anything until you've identified the root cause.
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Is a home inspection of lead worth the money or will it basically tell me what I already know? We just purchased a house. It was built in 1939. There are areas of the house, around the base of some molding, door corners, around some door frames, etc., where paint is chipping. We didn't get the house inspected before we bought it because we just assumed that there is lead paint underneath. We haven't moved in with our kids (5 and 3 years old) b/c we are renovating. I recently used a lead paint test stick on a wall under a big piece of peeling paint in the bathroom. It was positive for lead. Now that got me thinking and possibly considering getting a professional to come it to do some XRF testing. Is it worth having it tested or is it adequate to just follow EPA RRP guidelines and recommendations...such as cleaning the house more often, wiping your shoes before coming in the house, eat a less fatty diet (less lead absorption), etc. <Q> Beyond simply identifying whether you have lead, there are two main reasons to consider getting a more thorough XRF lead inspection: <S> If you're trying to fully de-lead your home, this is a thorough test to determine if the deleading project has been successful. <S> If your goal is to make your home safer without going as far as a full deleading project, you can use XFR to prioritize remediation work. <S> For example, you may find that some areas do not contain lead and can be safely ignored. <S> For safety impact, the most important rules are: <S> Any repair work should be done with proper personal and work area protection. <S> Lead paint in areas subject to frequent motion (e.g. window partition beads, door jambs) or in child-accessible areas (e.g. base and window molding) are higher priority for remediation. <S> Keep your home clean (vacuum more often with a HEPA filter equipped cleaner). <S> Supervise your children and/or remove lead paint in their primary play areas. <S> Watch out for any new paint chipping and clean or remediate as needed. <S> You should come to your own conclusion about how much risk you and your family are willing to accept around this. <A> Are you removing the lead paint (or painted boards) as part of the renovation? <S> If so, I would wait until I was done removing the lead paint that you already know about, and then get a lead inspection to help you find anywhere that you might have missed. <S> If you are uncertain about a wall, and want to wait for the inspection, that sounds reasonable. <S> I really think this question is, it worth the peace of mind? <S> Only you can truly answer that. <S> If you were not planning to remove the lead, or if you are on the fence about it, would a lead inspection prompt you to (ahem) <S> get the lead out? <S> The advice of an inspector is perhaps more qualified, especially if he/she has tools to see exactly what you are dealing with. <S> But inspectors are human too; you should ask for references before blindly following any advice. <S> If you are just going to cover it up, no matter what, then I suppose an inspection would be a waste of money. <S> Regarding RRP guidlines, vigilent cleaning will be helpful even after you remove all the lead (that you can find) because lead has a way of getting around. <A> 1939? <S> We all know what that means: your house probably has both* things in it. <S> You haven't moved in yet <S> so that's good. <S> Get as much demo done as humanly possible in this first go. <S> Hopefully your next rehab will wait until the kids are older; when lead will be less of a concern towards their development. <S> Don't ever let your roof or the siding leak, or there will be peeling paint... <S> *If you find asbestos, have it removed or just encapsulate (paint) it. <S> If whatever it is, is painted: paint it again. <S> Try to stick to latex; it adheres well to all types of undercoats.
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Peeling or chipping lead paint should be safely removed and replaced or covered (e.g. with an encapsulating primer designed to secure lead paint). Of course, it is safest to fully de-lead your home. Work done without proper precautions is a major risk for dangerous levels of lead exposure.
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Which wire is the ground in this light box? So I'm trying to fit a new light fixture that's got the usual black, white, and copper/green wires coming out from the light itself. However, when I took off the old light and looked at the wires in the electrical box in the ceiling, the black and white are self-evident (see photo), but I cannot figure out where the copper/green wire is for the ground: Maybe the previous light didn't make use of a ground? Or maybe the ground is that there's a mess of wires that are the third set in the photo, besides the aforementioned black and white ones. This mess of wires is a mix of black and white, all coming together into a twist-on wire connector. BTW I read this one and some related questions, but didn't figure it out... Can I safely ground a light fixture if the ceiling box has two hot and one neutral wire (no ground wire) Edit: To the request for better/closer photo, I've added a zoomed-in version of the photo above, hope it helps. <Q> Since these are all joined together, it doesn't really matter which one is coming in and which two are going out. <S> Then it looks you <S> you have a white wire connected to the bundle of hot wires, and <S> that white is going out of the box to the switch, and then a black wire returning from the switch, which goes to your lamp. <S> This is pretty common , but that white wire should probably be marked at both ends to indicate that it's actually a hot. <S> Based on what I can see in the picture, you do not have a ground wire. <S> It's possible that the box itself is grounded, either with a ground wire screwed to it <S> that's not visible in the photo or by metal conduit, but based on the yellowed insulation of the white wires, my guess is that your house is old enough that no ground was required at the time, so there is not ground wire. <S> Update based on your close-up picture <S> , there are ground wires, they are sort of terminated to the box on the strain relief clamps. <S> If you have enough slack, it would be good to wirenut them all together securely with one pigtail that goes to the box and one to your lamp. <S> Otherwise, make sure they are all securely fastened to the box, only one of them (the one that leads back to the panel) is a "real" ground, the others are providing ground for downstream lights/outlets, so make sure that all all them are securely fastened. <A> Agree with Kris in the earlier post. <S> Look at one of the main wires coming through the conduit in the upper left. <S> It looks like there's a very clearly-cut ground wire that was cut close to the entrance into the box. <A> You appear to have older 14-2 without ground coming in from 4 directions, and each of those (or at least three of them) has a separate uninsulated ground alongside. <S> If you combine them and pigtail to the box and your fixture, in theory everything will be protected. <A> From the looks of your updated photo, your house was wired with a 50s/60s type of NM that carried an undersized (16AWG) <S> "ground"-but-not-really-a-ground with it. <S> The common practice with these wires was to fold them back into or screw them to the cableclamps instead of bringing them into the box and pigtailing them to a ground screw on the box.
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In this case, you likely won't have enough slack in the ground wires to pull them out and pigtail them together -- I'd simply connect the fixture ground to the box with an appropriate grounding screw. Here's my best guess at the wiring based on the photo. Looks like you've got one hot/neutral coming into the box from the panel (or another switch/outlet), and you've got 2 hot/neutrals going out of the box to other switches/outlets.
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Suggestions for gate latch issue Let me preface by saying that I'm not really looking for "shopping advice". I just need some direction on how to tackle this issue. We recently purchased a house and it has a block fence around the back yard, with a side gate. The latch is facing the exterior so, I would like to put a lock on it. The issue is that the latch (located on the right side of the gate) is too close to the block to fit a standard lock through it. I've tried a few different kinds of locks and nothing seems to fit. Any advice and/or direction would be appreciated. UPDATE -- Photos added <Q> <A> It would be fairly easy to retrofit a proper locking latch. <S> Product link (for reference only) <S> Here's one that locks from either side. <S> You'd need to grind off the old one, drill for the new one, paint, and mount the new one. <A> There are cable locks that have a plain end to the cable that might fit through. <S> You might have to file the hole a little bigger in the lock mechanism to allow the end of the cable to angle through. <S> There are also shorter cable locks, but they tend to have a beefier cable end that is captive within the locking mechanism. <S> Images and links are for illustration only, not an endorsement of goods or sources. <A> Maybe you can find an anvil padlock that would fit? <A> if you could get it tight enough, you could attach the lock in other ways to keep the latch from lifting. <S> did you try any of these configurations? <A> I would suggest reversing the lock. <S> First the lock "should" be on the inside. <S> After that the peg part should be on the gate, and the latch part on the post, but because you need more room, put the latch part on the gate, and the peg part on the post. <S> It's not ideal because you will have a "peg part" sticking out into the walk through area, but it will make locking and useing the gate 100 times easier. <S> If you want to keep the lock on the outside, that's fine, just reverse the peg part and the latch part. <S> Currently they appear to be welded on. <S> You will need to break that. <S> A hammer and lever should do just fine. <S> When re attaching just use metal screws. <S> There's no need to weld. <S> If you have a disk grinder then you can smooth out the left over welds after you break off the old latch. <S> Either way, your going to have to buy a new latch.
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One option would be to drill holes through the post to allow you to use the lock that you have (or perhaps a slightly longer lock).
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How can I project a clear light shape on the wall with an LED lamp? I'd like to build an installation which projects a star sky on the ceiling. The picture will explain the concept and the problem I've encountered: As you can see, there is plenty factors that I would need to take into account which I don't know. I'm looking for suggestions on how to approach this problem and would be grateful for some buzzwords on what to google for similar projects (light projecting and similar didn't yield results). <Q> Focusing the light requires some tinkering. <S> The size of the hole is a factor. <S> Also, if you are using multiple LEDs then there will be multiple stars per hole; each LED will make a star. <S> Some words to google might be diffraction, interferance, and apeture. <S> Also you could perhaps pick up some info from making an eclipse viewer. <A> This is also known as a GOBO light. <S> That might be able to help you find more resources online, like this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Gobo-Light-Projector <A> To get sharp shadow projection you need either something close to a single-point light source, or lenses <A> When you say "LED lamp" do you mean some random thing sold in stores as a replacement for incandescent bulbs? <S> Those are terrible "point light sources", because they go to extremes to diffuse the light like the old frosted-bulb incandescent. <S> Precisely because one of the things people hate about LEDs is their intense single-point light. <S> The technology is not a problem, rather it's finding it in a screw-in off-the-shelf consumer product. <S> You might want to look at bulbs intended for track lighting, flashlight or automotive replacement - specifically ones that have a single multi-watt LED emitter. <S> Explore SuperBrightLEDs.com ... <S> you'll know it when you see it. <S> It is likely to be 12 volts, which means getting a 12 volt DC power supply also (those are readily available, and if you kept the old power bricks off old Internet routers, you may even own a few.)
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The distance between the light source and the apeture is another factor.
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three prong adaptor caught on fire I have been using a three prong adaptor on my microwave. The adaptor caught on fire when the microwave was not being used, though I had used it approx. 5 minutes earlier. There's no sign of damage behind the cover plate, and a lamp works when plugged in. The microwave plug is slightly melted along one edge, next to the old adaptor but otherwise looks OK. What should I check before just plugging back in with a new adaptor? <Q> The proper solution is to replace the outlet with a 3 prong GFCI one, and label it "No Equipment Ground". <S> You are allowed to replace an ungrounded outlet with a GFCI. <S> Then just plug your microwave in. <S> Or run new wire and ground it properly, but that is a much bigger job. <A> This is not the fault of the adapter: if you'd shorted the ground wire to hot (for example), a fuse would have blown. <S> It's almost certain that you did not plug the microwave firmly into the adapter, or the adapter firmly into the socket. <S> Kill the fuse/breaker and inspect the wall socket for signs of damage or carbon buildup in the slots. <S> Clean or replace as necessary. <S> Replace damaged adapter and damaged plug on microwave wiring. <A> The ground issue is a red herring. <S> The issue is that one of the sockets (probably the one in the cheater) is not clamping the plug blades very well. <S> Either it is cheap junk, or lost its "spring". <S> As it started to heat up, it lost more spring - vicious cycle. <S> Current was flowing, but only by arcing inside the cheater, and microwaves take a lot of current -- hence a lot of arcing, and the fire. <S> There's no such thing as a quality cheater, and there never will be, because the problem is elegantly solved by GFCI's -- as aptly described by Grant in his answer. <S> Grounds are important and you shouldn't use cheaters without proper grounding (and really, ever, now that the GFCI solution exists). <S> But that's not what caused this.
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As a result, there was a weak connection inside the adapter, leading to either significant ohmic load or local arcing, either of which lead to meltdown and burning due to running the microwave. The answer is search your house for any loosey-goosey or sloppy-doppy outlet connections, and replace with quality outlets that hold their grip.
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Should I get rid of a small wasp nest? My girlfriend has been offered an insect hotel and we decided to hang it on our balcony (we live in an apartment close to the forest in Denmark).It has attracted wasps and they have started building a nest inside a cavity supposed to be used by butterflies (I can see it through the slit). Right now it is not bothering because the wasps are few and very tame : they're not attracted by food, don't come inside and completely ignore anyone on the balcony. They just relentlessly fly in and out.The nest is small, roughly 6cm in diameter, and can't expand so much because the cavity is a cube about of about 10cm of edge length. Should I get rid of it while it is still easy, or should I leave it alone ? <Q> You won't want to use any poisons, obviously, because then you'd be hurting your good bugs. <S> You can do a couple of things. <S> One is to just take a trash bag and put it over the whole thing and pull it tight. <S> Maybe even tape the top shut. <S> They'll eventually die. <S> If you want to be more human or get rid of them more quickly in general, do the same thing, but put them in your freezer for a day. <S> Then you can safely clean out the nest. <S> If you're not worried about being stung, just knock the nest out that they're building. <S> They may come back and even start to rebuild, but if you do it again, they'll move on. <S> If you want to go the chemical route, just don't spray the bug hotel. <S> Spray them while they're in the air. <A> I tend to attempt to let honey-bees and bumble-bees that have found their way into the house out, and kill wasps or yellow-jackets that have made the same mistake. <S> Outside I normally leave well enough alone unless they are too near people. <S> Without knowing what the behavior of your wasps may be, the described behavior sounds relatively non-threatening <S> and I doubt the nasty ones that make football-sized nests would start inside a small sheltered location like that, but it's difficult to predict for certain. <S> It is certainly possible to simply rub out (or wash out with a stream of water) the nest when most or all of the owners are away from it, and that alone will often cause them to move on. <S> If any are home, they will take objection to that behavior, but you can observe the activity and turn the pesticide-use advice (which tries to get them all at the nest by going early or late in the day) on its head and hit them mid-day, if possible on a cooler day when they will be a bit more sluggish. <A> Wasps are just as beneficial as bees. <S> Some plants are pollinated by wasps instead of bees. <S> Carrots, parsley and their ilk are all Vespa or Ant pollinated (ants are descended from wasps). <S> As a beekeeper, I can recommend a few things. <S> One, if they aren't really bothering you, then leave them alone. <S> The nest will die off in the winter and you can clean out the insect house then. <S> Two, if they do bother you, then simply move the nest. <S> To move the nest, plug the entrance hole tightly with some grass early in the morning before the wasps are flying, and quickly move them to their preselected new location. <S> If you are quick about it, you can move the nest without any wasps getting out. <S> Once hung in its new home, just get away from the nest and let the wasps pull the grass out in their own. <S> Trust me they are strong enough to do it in their own, don't help because you will get stung. <S> Some will come back to the old location wondering what happened, but the activity of pulling the grass out slows then down from just flying out and losing their home. <S> It forces them to slow down and take a look around a bit and realize they aren't in the same spot as they were before. <S> Again, some will be stupid about it, but they'll either eventually find their way home again, or finally die off from starvation. <S> (They need the brood in the nest to feed properly).
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I would get rid of it now, because they'll only be harder to get rid of when they're larger and more aggressive. Many small wasps are beneficial, preying upon or parasitizing other bugs or grubs.
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Will a fan motor run in reverse if the receptacles polarity is reversed? Recently installed a range hood and it's not sucking up smoke very well. It's been uninstalled and checked for obstructions and none have been found. The dampers are opening and closing properly. One at the unit the other on the roof top vent. The unit is a four speed fan (450 to 920 cfm). Using a facial tissue I have to move said tissue to within 1" of the range hood to get it to suck up. I'm no electrician but can follow simple instructions after 40 years of handyman work. The only thing left to my mind is that the fan is running in reverse. So once again my question is: If the receptacle I have plugged this unit into is reversed polarity would that cause the fan motor to run in reverse? <Q> Just crappy fan design and misleading ratings (450-920 cfm with no duct at all, and terrible fall off with any normal resistance - or else it's an outright lie.) <S> What is your actual duct arrangement (size, length, number of turns?) <S> If the fan was running in reverse, the tissue would be blown away, not sucked up from any distance. <S> A/C motors run on current that reverses polarity many times per second, and their direction of operation is not affected by that. <S> Either return it, or scrap the fan and replace with a quality duct fan designed for range hood service (grease, moisture, heat) <S> - might as well go for quiet as well while you are investing in quality. <A> It would blow it away. <S> Single phase AC motors cannot be reversed with the supply wires. <S> Reversible ones have terminals in the connection box that get swapped. <S> Fan motors like this are usually hard-wired and cannot be reversed by the customer. <S> Twice in >30 years I have seen motors that were not properly attached to the shaft from the factory. <S> The motor runs at normal speed but the shaft only spins slowly. <S> If you can access the fan itself you can see if light pressure against the fan will stop it from rotating. <S> If the shaft is still spinning then it is bad and will have to be replaced. <S> If you can't access the fan then I would take the hood back anyway for a replacement. <S> Wire it up before installation to verify it moves enough air for you. <S> Good luck! <A> No, because AC motors don't have polarity. <S> At least not single-phase ones. <S> (Because single-phase power doesn't have polarity, it switches polarity 100 or 120 times a second.). <S> These motors choose their direction by a "starter" circuit built into them. <S> Just for amusement, I'll mention that three-phase motors are a different deal. <S> Three-phase power is sequenced, first phase 1 peaks, then phase 2, then phase 3, which defines motor rotation. <S> They are reversed by switching any two wires (1-3-2). <S> The armature reverses, but so does the field, so they still go in the same direction.
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Also, many DC motors also don't reverse if you reverse polarity. If the fan were running in reverse the test tissue would not get sucked up at all even if it brought right up to the fan. Reversing the field wiring does the trick.
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What is the meaning of the term "trade size" While shopping for electrical parts for the next project, I keep seeing the term Trade Size. What exactly is this a measure of? <Q> It simply means what the item is referred to in size, .vs. <S> what any actual dimension may be. " <S> Nominal" size means the same thing. <S> So, 1/2" EMT (for example) is 0.706 <S> " on the outside and 0.622 <S> " on the inside, and 0.500" nowhere. <A> "Trade size" is a measure of the diameter of the component wire. <S> Also used in light duty chain. <S> Specifically you can read "trade size" as "Wire Guage"18 = 18,16 = 16etc. <S> You can see a table here: https://www.chain-cable.com/weldless_chains.htm <A> With HVAC copper we measure the outside diameter, with plumbing we measure the inside diameter, with wood demintional lumber it has changed over the years but is based on the outside dimensions where in the 1900's a 2x4 was a true measure of 2"x4" today not the same. <S> So it depends on the Trade <S> you are talking about what the measurements will really be. <S> I see this the most in the electrical trade because of code requirements <S> but then the schedule or thickness of the conduit comes into play so there are slightly different id or od sizes , but even these change over the years, when I started in construction a 1/2" sheet of plywood was 1/2 inch now 15/32. <S> So it depends on the Trade that you are looking at and the type of material.
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Trade size depends on what trade we are talking about and the material.
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How to hang a TV on a drywall with no studs and no room for toggle bolts? I am hanging a TV in a narrow wall space that has no studs behind it. I have verified there are no studs behind the drywall by using two different stud finders (a cheaper and a more expensive model). Both devices did go off once, but only in a small area in the middle of the wall, not along the whole height, so it's definitely not a stud. This TV mount requires 4 screws. The original plan was to use 4 toggle bolts (a.k.a. drywall screws). However, after pre-drilling the holes, I found that there is another hard surface that begins about 1.5 inches after the drywall. There is no room for the "butterfly" part of the toggle bolt to open up. I don't know what the hard surface is. When I give it a knock with a screwdriver, it sounds like either metal or brick. This is an apartment building over 100 years old. There is another person's apartment behind the wall. A few questions: 1) Should I do additional testing to find out if that surface is brick or metal? If so, how? 2) If not, should I assume it's brick and proceed with trying to put the screws into the brick, either directly or with anchors? What kind of additional gear would this require? Special screws, drill bits, anchors? 3) Alternatively, should I stick with the toggle bolt method, which would require drilling large openings in the second surface to allow for sufficient clearance for the toggle bolts to open? Not sure how easy this would be. Thanks! <Q> You can't easily detect studs behind plaster walls with a stud detector. <S> You likely have to use test holes. <S> One option is to drill a largish hole in the center(ish) of where you will mount the TV. <S> Then use a coat hanger to fish it into the hole to see if you can locate the studs on each side. <S> If it's a solid wall (brick, likely) <S> then that gets trickier, Old brick and mortar isn't that strong in terms of ability to hold screws. <S> But you can try it by drilling into the mortar and using masonry screws. <A> An over-100-year-old apartment building is likely plaster-over-lath. <S> In that case, you should be able to drill through the plaster and into the lath to sink wood screws. <S> If this is so, you'll see what looks like sawdust on the tip of the drill when you pull it out. <S> I'd probably use a bunch more than just the 4 recommended, but it'll hold a TV under 50 lbs. <S> If the tip comes back red and chewed up, congrats, it's brick, and you can sink masonry anchors if you want complete overkill. <S> This ain't a job for toggle bolts, though. <A> I mounted a TV on a party wall in my townhouse. <S> As best I could determine, wall construction was masonry block fire break with 2x2 (more or less) strapping to carry the drywall and create a narrow space for wiring. <S> I didn't want to rely on the strapping to hold the bolts, so used masonry anchors. <S> I chose to use a stud-type anchor. <S> I located the 2x2s and drilled through them so that they would take up the compressive load as the anchor bolts were tightened and not risk deforming/cracking the drywall or buckling the mount. <S> I think the final result could have supported the weight of a car, so the 40lb mount + 80lb TV was quite secure.
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You'd need to drill with a masonry bit, and then you can choose either expanding anchors or epoxying in something more like a drywall anchor. As Joe points out, if this wall is original, then it's not drywall, but plaster. If you want to find out what's behind there, just try to drill it (with a drill bit you don't care about). Finally, if this is a shared wall with the neighbor, first check your tenant agreement to see if you are even allowed to mount a TV to it. Lots of apartments will have restrictions on what you can hang on shared walls--both for fire code issues (they don't like holes in party walls) but also for common courtesy of trying to avoid noise transference.
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How do I cut an angled cut with low clearance? I need to cut a header down on an angle to match my stairs. It needs to be cut on a 51° angle, which my circular saw can handle, but there isn't enough clearance under the joists to get my saw in there. What kind of tool should I use to cut this? I have marked lines on the front and back, and I'm considering using a reciprocating saw and just trying to hold it steady. Is there a better way? Easiest would have been to cut it before placing, but I really had to whack that thing to get it in and regardless it's in place now. Update: I just used a hand plane and started going to town. It worked surprisingly well. <Q> If you can get a rough cut with a Recopicating saw, you can use a handheld power planer to finish the cut and get the right angle. <S> Just attach a scrap piece, cut at the correct angle, to the planer fence. <A> [planer fence 1 <S> You will have to get creative with the fence. <S> I have added a few pics to help. <S> You will want to use a much shorter piece to ride along the flat part of the header and you will have a little part on the ends that will need to be finished by hand. <S> The pics were done very quickly and are just to give you the idea. <A> A handsaw will do the job and is the cheapest tool that will if you need to buy something for this.
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A sharp ripsaw would be best - the coarser side of the low-end pull saws is probably the easiest way to find one of those in the current market.
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What do you do with left over caulk in a tube? What do you do with the caulk when you don't need it all? Do you throw it away or can you cover it and store it? <Q> I wrap any adhesive tape I have on hand into a tube extending a short distance beyond the tip of the nozzle and pinch it shut at the end, then I dispense some product into the tape. <S> This allows the product itself to seal the tube on the outside of the tube . <S> When you're ready to use the tube again, yank off the tape and the dried plug and you should have a fresh nozzle. <A> Unless I think I can use it within a few weeks <S> I either: throw it out <S> go around my house or the house I am using it in and try to finish up the tube. <S> There is always caulking to do! <S> I myself used to tape the caulk ends and use it. <S> But after a couple of sloppy/botched uses <S> I decided it simply isn't worth the time involved. <S> Think about putting iffy caulk in a tub, then getting water where you don't want it. <S> Think about caulking trim after you paint, then the caulk goes on poor and you have to scrape it off and repaint it. <S> Is it worth saving a $1? <A> It kind of depends on how long it will be before you expect to use it again. <S> Often people try to store the caulk by wrapping the tip with plastic tape or plugging it with a nail or something; but if it will be months before you are going to use it again, then saving it may not work out. <S> Once the tube has been opened, it's bascially just a matter of time before it dries up. <S> If it's sealed really well, it could last several months, but this is kind of a lofty goal. <A> I've tried nails, tape, etc, and at best have only gotten a tube to last a few months. <S> The tubes that come with a replaceable cap seem to last longer. <A> If nothing comes out, I try to pull out the dried plug from the nozzle. <S> If I can't do that, I cut the nozzle down till I get to the base of the nozzle. <S> If I still can't squeeze anything out, I throw it away and buy a new one. <S> Honestly, it's usually 50/50 that it will still be viable (for me), so it's worth keeping. <A> do what you can to keep it from drying out, but assuming that it does dry out, make a length-wise slit in the complete length of the plastic nozzle, pull out the plug and then wrap electrical tape around the nozzle to restore the function of the nozzle. <A> Run a stainless sheet-metal screw into the end. <S> It works great but still only buys you so much time. <S> I have gotten a year out of tubes that way.
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I store it and when I need it later, I try to squeeze some out.
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How to predict when the electrical infrastructure on my 1950s rental is going throw a breaker? I live in an old house; it has old electrical infrastructure. Last night it was really hot, and we were running an external dishwasher on the same circuit as the TV and a fan and a ceiling fan. Only the TV is connected with an extension cord because there just isn't a three prong outlet in that room, but sadly it's still on the same circuit. The TV is an older flat screen from maybe 2003 or so, the dish washer is brand new. When it was hot last night the breaker kept switching off, and I had to unplug everything from that circuit and reset the breaker. Is there any way to calculate how much a breaker is likely to be able to handle, so I don't have to keep running up and down the stairs to fix this? I do have things running in other parts of the house as well, but they aren't on the same circuit. They only blew once or twice; the one in question blew like 4 or 5 times last night. <Q> A breaker will trip according to its trip curve, at 40°C (104°F). <S> In this condition, it should be able to carry 100% of the rated load. <S> So if you have a 20 ampere breaker, at 40°C it should be able to carry 20 amperes. <S> It's often recommended (and sometimes required), to only load a circuit to 80% its capacity. <S> In most cases, devices are listed by the amount of watts they use, rather than the amount of current they draw. <S> Luckily it's fairly easy to convert back and forth, as long as you know the system voltage. <S> Watts = <S> Volts <S> * Amperes , <S> Amperes = <S> Watts / Volts . <S> So a 20 ampere breaker on a 120 volt system, should be able to supply 2400 watts. <S> Applying the 80% safety margin, that's 1920 watts. <S> A 15 ampere breaker can supply 1800 watts at 100%, or 1440 watts at 80%. <A> If the breaker is working properly, you're simply overloading the circuit. <S> If it happens to be not merely older, but also one of the "dubious models" (such as Federal Pacific ) <S> the whole breaker panel should be replaced before something bad happens (they have a tendency to fail in a "cause fire" manner.) <S> Right <S> - your title (only) mentions "rental" <S> so you will be at the whim of your landlord as far as practical fixes <S> - so you'll need to figure out what EVERYTHING on your circuits is, and spread your loads around and/or not run them simultaneously to prevent problems. <A> Get yourself a Kill-a-Watt power meter and measure each of your loads on each circuit. <S> They also make upscale units with backlights and storage so you can unplug it and look at the stored data in a bit more comfort. <S> Take Watts or VA (whichever is larger) and divide by 120 - this gives Amps. <S> Or take "amps" right off the Kill-a-Watt. <S> Tally up all the amps for each load on each circuit. <S> Then compare it to the number on the circuit breaker that keeps tripping. <S> The number will be 15 or 20 depending on the size of the wire. <S> I'd like to break you out of the mentality that your "infrastructure is old, and that's what happens, and resetting the breaker all the time is normal, safe and a burden of living in an older home". <S> That is all false. <S> The above test will tell: If it's tripping well below rating, it's a bad breaker. <S> Otherwise it's tripping because you are overloading it . <S> Stop doing that. <S> Breakers protect wires. <S> They are designed to warm up at about the same rate as the wires in your walls, and trip when they get too hot. <S> Trouble is the breaker may cool off much faster than your wall wiring, so by repeatedly resetting it, you're letting the wall wiring "keep getting warmer", defeating the breaker's protection. <S> That, however, does not explain why the other circuit trips. <S> One coping strategy may be to tell the dishwasher not to use the heater. <S> Like I say, the Kill-a-Watt tells all. <S> Once you have the numbers, if the answer isn't obvious, bring your data back here <S> and we'll help. <A> Sum up the wattage of all the appliances plugged into the circuit and divide by the voltage. <S> That will be the total amp they will draw in the worst case not accounting for motor starting loads which can peak above that. <S> If the breaker is rated for more than that then it's probably gone bad and needs a replacement. <S> If the draw is more than the breaker is able to handle then it will trip. <S> To fix that you will either need to be careful about what is active at a time. <S> Or you can run a new circuit to spread the load.
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To estimate how much power you're using, add the wattage rating of all the devices on the circuit. If the breaker is tripping well below the rated load, it's in need of replacement. My hunch is this newer dishwasher has an integral heater, so it's meant for a dedicated 20A circuit, and using 14-15A all itself. A dishwasher may have heating elements causing a large load - there may be modes where the heating elements are not used - you'd be wise to figure out if that is so, and use those modes if they are available.
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How to secure a top heavy tall iron headboard I have an iron headboard that is 80 inches tall in the center. It's very top heavy - and just plain heavy too. If it's just mounted to the bed frame wouldthat be enough to keep it from falling forward? (as in crushing me when I'm sleeping) I love this headboard but afraid of it too. Any suggestions? <Q> That frame is built of heavy-gauge steel and will likely hold up your headboard without damage. <S> The fact that your headboard is vertical means that there's relatively little stress on the assembly. <S> However, there may be play in the rivets and other connections which leave the headboard a bit wobbly when the bed is used. <S> To completely remedy that you'd probably need to add a diagonal brace near the floor, between the horizontal frame rail and the headboard leg, creating a larger gusset. <S> You could do so with a simple double-bent 1/8" steel or 1/4" aluminum bar stock attached with carriage bolts. <S> Something like so: | |___________/| |___________ | | -- <S> \| | \ <S> | | <S> \ <S> | | <S> \ <S> | | <S> \ | | || <S> | <S> | | <A> Locate two studs. <S> Drill pilot holes through upper part of frame in line with studs. <S> Fasten to studs with 1/4"x 2" lag bolts. <S> Paint bolt heads to blend with frame. <A> The square tube bracket, to which I'm referring, would be like this (but of the proper size) <S> http://www.gutterspares.co.uk/4t834---25-square-pipe-bracket-1250 :
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I would 1) turn the headboard around so the already attached brackets are flush to the wall (attach at that point) then, 2) use "square tube brackets" to attach the headboard to the wall (at the highest point where the mattresses would cover the brackets.
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Foul smell in bathroom, ONLY when air conditioning is NOT blowing/running There is a smell in an interior bathroom with no windows. The tub is rarely used. When I noticed the smell, I got on my hands and knees to sniff everywhere, stuck my head in the toilet tank, shoved my nose in the tub drain, put my head in the vanity, and so on. Nothing smells up close, so I threw bleach down the sink, toilet and tub. Since the tub hasn't been run since I last cleaned it about 3-4 months ago, I figured that was the culprit. I ran hot water in the tub, cleaned it again for good measure, and thought the smell went away. That was when I noticed that the smell goes away when the AC is running. If there is no air being pumped in, the smell is there. That allowed me to rule out a dead critter in the duct work. Any ideas???? Thank you!!! <Q> I say this because many HVAC systems have a small percentage of fresh air added when they are running and this keeps the air moving out of the bathroom. <S> When the System is off the smell wafts back into the room. <S> You may be able to use a spray disinfectant, Remove the cover, turn the fan on and direct the spray into the fan (not the motor) and spray for a few seconds,,, or minutes. <S> put the cover back on and see if the smell is still there in a day or so. <S> I am guessing you have a fan since there are no windows <S> and this has been code for decades. <A> Just a thought, I worked in an office with an internal bathroom, i.e. no exterior walls and we noticed a off smell there as well. <S> The toilets and sinks worked fine, it wasn't until we realized the floor drain was the source. <S> There was a P trap on the floor drain and the water had evaporated in the trap, allowing air to escape into the room. <S> You might want to make sure there is enough water flowing in the tub drain to seal. <S> The other possibility is there is <S> a negative air pressure and air is being pulled (bubbling up) past the gooseneck or P trap into the bathroom. <S> that might be why the smell goes away when air is being pushed into the room by the AC. <A> Looking under the vanity, does your sink drain have a simple p-trap that goes straight into the wall? <S> Or is there something more in there, something sticking straight up with a bunch of vent slots/holes in it? <S> You could have a failed air admittance valve, allowing sewer gasses to leak out.
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To me it sounds like the vent from the bathroom to the outside must have moisture in it and growing something.
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Breaker lets more Amps then its max The last few day's I had the main breaker triped a few times, I checked the amps with a multimeter and when the central air conditioner turns on it draws 150! amps for 1 second and then goes down to 20, its breaker is a double 50A breaker and the main is 125A. So is this the cause or its normal that when turning on it should go up so high and maybe the breaker is designed so? <Q> If a breaker is tripping regularly, that's a serious problem you should look at. <S> That is not normal or acceptable. <S> It means something is wrong with your overcurrent protection, or a defective device actually drawing too much current. <S> This is needed by motors to start, incandescent bulbs to light, and many electronic power supplies to initially start up. <S> The term is called "inrush current". <S> Ultimately the purpose of breakers is to protect wiring and receptacles. <S> Overcurrent makes them excessively warm, but small overcurrent makes them warm slowly. <S> The breaker is designed to trip before this heat would endanger the wires. <S> Many breakers also have an instantaneous trip, where they will trip immediately for very high current (i.e. a dead short). <S> This is many times the nameplate rating of the breaker. <S> There is a chart for your breaker of how much overcurrent it will permit for how long. <S> Here is one example , there should be a vaguely similar chart for your breaker. <S> I'd get and see if it explains your breaker's tripping behavior. <S> If it doesn't, then either your measuring method is not precise enough, or you have a bad breaker. <S> I would be surprised at a breaker instantaneously tripping at 125% of rating. <A> Breakers do not trip right away. <S> Whether they trip depends on how far over their rated capacity the current is and how long the current has been going for. <S> This behavior is documented in a circuit breaker trip curve for your specific breakers, which gives a range of times for a specific current amount. <S> E.g. in that example, a current of 3x the rated current should take between 10 and 35 seconds to trip. <S> At 100x the rated current (e.g. a short circuit) it should trip in less than 1 cycle (1/60 second). <A> Motor starting loads (its the compressor motor in your A/C drawing all the current) can be very high and it is normal for them to briefly exceed the continuous rating of their circuit including the breaker. <S> If breakers were designed to open with more sensitively, with that kind of load they would nuisance trip all the time.
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It is normal for circuit breakers to allow overcurrent for a short amount of time.
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Finding the other end of an ethernet cable that's punched into a 66 Block I have a Cat 5 ethernet cable that runs from a stereo cabinet to an equipment closet. A couple dozen other identical cables run from other parts of the house to the same hole in my drywall in this closet. They’re not all well labeled. Originally, the cable in the stereo cabinet served as a telephone connection, with a 4P4C jack in the cabinet and the other end punched down into a 66 Block in the closet (question edited to show 66 Block photo). Now, I want to re-purpose that Cat 5 cable to serve as an Internet connection to the cabinet. I have already re-terminated the cabinet end with an 8P8C Ethernet jack, and I want to find the other end of this cable in the closet so I can connect it to our data network. If the cable from the stereo cabinet weren’t punched into the 66 Block, I think it would be easy enough to find it, using an answer like “ How can I find out which ethernet cable goes where? ”. But if I were to use a Tone Generator and Probe, then I would expect for every cable in the house that serves our phone system (all of which are the same gray Cat 5, and all of which are tied together in that 66 Block) to probe positive exactly like the one cable I’m trying to find. Right? Because of this, the only way I can think of to find this cable is to start pulling wire off my 66 Block. However, I don’t want to do this unless it really is necessary, because I’m fearful that I’ll mess up our home phone system in a way I won’t be able to repair. (One problem I foresee is that I don’t have a lot of extra cable length to work with for punching wires back down.) How can I figure out which of the many Cat 5 cables that are punched down into the 66 Block in my closet is the one coming from my stereo cabinet? <Q> Here are the steps I performed: I plugged the toner into the jack in the stereo cabinet and set it to generate a tone for the probe. <S> I took the probe to the equipment closet and set it to the same icon as I had set the toner to. <S> The audible signal made it completely obvious which cable was the one I was looking for. <S> Once I found the cable, I pulled its blue/blue-white pair off the block. <S> I terminated the cable with an RJ45 keystone jack. <S> I tested the pins with my little Ideal VDV MultiMedia Tester. <S> I turned off my laptop <S> Wi-Fi, cabled it into the equipment closet, and googled a word I knew wouldn't be cached. <S> Called it a win when Google returned results. <A> Is your 66 block configured with bridge clips? <S> If so, just remove the bridge clips and your many CAT5 cables will be isolated from each other, you can individually probe them to find the one you want, then reinstall the bridge clips. <S> I'm assuming your 66 block is not configured like that? <S> How is it configured? <S> Can you include a picture? <A> I zoomed into to the picture <S> and I see writing on the plywood on either side of the punch down block. <S> Many labels such as "master bedroom", "xxxx bedroom", "office", "study", and "kitchen" should surely help to distinguish where most of the cables are routed.
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In the equipment closet, I passed the tip over all the cables coming in from the wall. Encouraged by the comments to my question, I bought a tone generator and probe (I bought a Fluke). Through a process of elimination you may be able to go right to the one to disconnect for testing in just one or two tries.
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Can I use construction adhesive alone to attach pressure-treated wall plate to concrete floor? Replacing walls in basement due to flooding. Contractor installed sump and drain pipe around the inside of the cinder block wall. I want to put in new wall, concerned that TapCon or other hammer/gun attachments will compromise the cement cover over that pipe. Can I just use liquid nails? <Q> I have found liquid nails on a few jobs in the past that did appear to work but is not code in my area. <S> The 2x4 placed flat on the wall only needs an inch and a half to be code. <S> The minimum wall thickness for a single story here is 6" and 8-12" on taller structures. <S> Most modern basements were poured with forms that have straps or snap pins holding the forms from blowing out. <S> These go all the way through <S> so I don't think there would be a problem with Tapcon or expanding anchors. <S> I have used both on my homes and jobs with no negatives. <S> Tapcons will strip out if over tightened <S> so I now use 3" long Hammer set expanding anchors. <S> They are a bit more expensive but I have never had one pull out on studs or back planes for electrical panels. <A> I'd trust construction adhesive without any mechanical fasteners if you fit your new wall framing snugly. <S> The friction provided by well-fit studs along with the glue will result in a bond that won't likely ever move. <S> Exceptions would be if you intend to ever mount very heavy items on the wall, or if you have heavy solid-core doors in that location. <S> All that said, your concerns about damaging the concrete are probably not warranted, assuming a full-thickness slab (4" or greater). <S> Drill gently <S> and you'll have no problems. <A> Concrete is porous, and will without doubt enable moisture to wick into the wood, leading to rot or mould. <S> It's not difficult to run a 12"-wide strip of polyethylene plastic under the wood, which will extend the life of any wood on concrete, and is good construction practice anytime wood meets concrete. <S> Then tapcon the wood to the concrete.
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I wouldn't fasten any wood (even pressure-treated) to undergrade concrete without a vapour barrier in between the two.
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Drywall over irregularly spaced studs - how do I secure edges? I'm diy-ing on an 80-year old+ house, putting drywall over damaged lath and plaster (can't save the plaster because reasons). The wood lath is too weak/damaged to serve as effective backing, so I'm trying to nail off only to studs. Problem is, they're 17-19" on center So, should I cut the drywall down so the edges of each piece are on the studs like new construction? Or can I nail off with edges off-center? The plan is a thick skimcoat and maybe a knife finish to try to get back a little of the plaster charm, but I'm afraid of the taped seams cracking. <Q> The edges of your drywall pieces must be on studs - at least two of them and preferentially all four. <S> (some drywall guys will vastly disagree with needing 4 so not trying to start a war) <S> But two is a must. <S> Either cut your drywall or add more studs. <S> There is absolutely nothing wrong with 17-19" on center which sounds like about 3 studs per sheet. <S> I have run into this with old houses. <S> Just buy 15 2x4s and throw them up where you need them. <A> I generally agree with DMoore about butt joints needing to be on studs, but the reason is simply that you need to keep the two sheets from moving with respect to each other . <S> For that reason, you could probably butt join over just the lath. <S> If you can hit enough solid lath with drywall screws to securely anchor the sheet ends together, you probably won't have issues. <S> As evidence of the viability of this claim, take the floating seam technique <S> some tapers use to achieve very flat butt seams for smooth-finish walls. <S> Thin backing is floated under the seams, tying the sheets together. <S> All that said <S> , it's a fairly quick thing to zip an end off a sheet at the stud. <S> It might ad 10% to your labor, all told. <S> I'd do that before I'd add studs (especially since you have plaster in the way). <A> In addition to what DMoore said, you might also think about installing your drywall sheets horizontally. <S> With odd stud spacing, this will mean fewer and shorter (4' vs 8') cuts. <S> I don't have all the info about your particular situation, but I would heartily recommend removing the existing lath and plaster and install the drywall directly to the studs. <A> All good answers but the best answer falls to number 0 or JS. <S> I worked for years in fire restoration of old old homes that were almost always lath and plaster. <S> Because our mud professional was extremely good at his job (it is very important to have a real expert professional who knows what he or she is doing with the new mud) <S> we would always save time and money by tearing out the old and replacing where needed with new studs and new rock. <S> If your "muddy buddy" is a true professional you will have no problem tying the new wall into old walls depending on what your buildings plans call for.
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Your drywall should end on stud or be butted up in the center with another piece of drywall.
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How can NEMA electric plug be safe ? I'm quite scared every time I have to use NEMA plugs (I live in Japan). Coming from europe, the bottom of the two connectors is insulated This ensure that even if you touch them while plugging/unplugging, it will always be safe to touch. Meanwhile with NEMA ones, there is no such insulation and I often see my appliance partially disconnected (but power still flowing) because of either the weight of the AC/DC or the cable has been pulled accidentally. Am I right to be worried about accidentally touching the connectors, and what to do about it ? <Q> How can NEMA [ 1-15 , IEC Type A ] electric plug [in Japan] be safe? <S> Nothing is safe. <S> There are only degrees of safety. <S> But they also work with higher voltages, which are slightly more dangerous (230 instead of 120 in US or 100 in Japan). <S> UK Plugs and outlets have many more safety features than any other design, so are safer still. <S> None of these designs can always prevent a determined or negligent person from electrocuting themselves. <S> I think it is better to regard them as less safe rather than unsafe, Just take extra care. <S> Do not use cords, plugs or outlets that appear damaged, replace them. <S> Always ensure plugs are fully pushed in. <S> Only grasp plugs by the plug body. <S> Keep fingers away from the front edge near the pins. <S> Do not let cords trail where they may be tripped over (causing plugs to be pulled partly out) <S> If you can do so, replace ordinary breakers and outlets with GFCI equivalents. <A> That space is pretty small and it's hard to get a finger in there. <S> If it's far enough out that you could, then it's not far enough in to make electrical contact. <S> So yes there can be a 1/4" gap, but your kid would have to get imaginative with paper clips to get to it. <S> Also, the voltage is half the Euro/APac voltage. <S> And, if you are at current code, you are likely to have a GFCI or AFCI trip before anything bad happens. <S> We residual-current-detect each circuit, not the whole house, <S> so the refrigerator doesn't quit and food doesnt spoil, and the detection threshold is much more sensitive. <S> That is the original plug from the very early 20th century... <S> We couldn't change it post-WWII because there were too many NEMA-1 outlets still in service. <S> There were so many because our cities did not get bombed flat in World War II. <S> We also did not get to rebuild our industry, so we were trying to compete in the 1970s with factories from 1933, which worked well for everyone but us. <S> Also, most houses in the city have their original 1910-ish telephone wires, and we now try to push high speed internet over that. <S> We also did not settle on 220V which means all our appliances are unique to NA, JP, Colombia and Venezuela. <S> Our plugs handle much less power, so we can't have nice things, like a 3000W toaster oven, table saws with guts, or even a window air conditioner that can cool more than one room. <S> This illustrate those capacities and some of the safety features RedGrittyBrick discusses in his answer. <S> If you wonder why every American owns a gas lawnmower, it's because electric lawnmowers don't work too well on 120V. <S> If you really want that style, you can try painting the first 5mm with liquid electrical tape, or slide tightly fitting shrink tube over the pins and heat it with a hair dryer. <S> Strictly speaking, nothing prohibits you from simply using German style plugs in your house, but you must use the grounded type with GFCI protection in some places, which would be easiest done at the service panel. <S> I like the German style best because the whole plug goes into a recess. <A> I have shocked myself touching one of the pins on a USA NEMA connector. <S> My finger just slipped around the end at the wrong moment. <S> So, this is anecdotal, but yes, it is a concern. <S> What do to about it - I think it is a matter of awareness. <S> Perhaps NEMA users have adopted hand postures which normally reduce this risk. <S> This seems to be a risky approach - finger sticking forward: <S> This is also risky, and wouldn't have a good grip <S> / the plug would flop around: <S> This is what I do, with my fingers curled backwards:
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European plugs incorporate more safety features, which makes them safer. Do not pull plugs out by the cords
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How can I create a movable insulated wall? I have a storage area which I need a sectioned. The smaller section will be cooled to 35-40 degrees with the help of our air conditioner and an attached Coolbot system. I want have the option of maximizing this larger storage area, while having an adjustable and insulated accordion door to enclose the cordoned off area when we have the need to keep the area at 35-40 degrees. We therefore don't want to permanently wall this area off. Please offer some options for this project that I can present to our contractor. <Q> Because your temp differential is relatively high (72˚F vs 35˚F), and you're talking about a relatively large area (I assume, because you talk about accordion "walls"), unless you have a fairly powerful air conditioner or very good wall insulation, your cooling requirements will be challenging. <S> If it's important that the wall be an accordion wall, then I would think in terms of 2 or 3" thick rigid foam polystyrene wall panels, with edges framed by ¾"x 2(or3)" plywood, with alternating-side hinges linking the individual panels to achieve the accordion effect. <A> Alternative suggestion: a PVC plastic strip wall curtain , like they use for step in refrigerator/freezers in food plants, butchers areas in grocery stores (not sure if you call it a shop, kitchen, or meat locker) or some resturants. <A> Stick lightweight insulation panels to the back of mobile/wheeled shelving units (or if you have no need for shelving, which would seem odd, just fill the units with insulation and cover the faces.) <S> The floor and ceiling either need to be VERY uniform/flat, or you need a sizable flexible weatherstrip to fill the larger gap that's required if they are not very uniform/flat. <S> I would not do this as an accordion - more like a "piston" though possibly still in sections. <S> Most likely youtube will save you the need to even visit such a library in person.
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Depending on the weight of the insulation panels, you may need some "ballast" on the bottom shelf to hold things steady - or move the insulation to the inside back of the shelves, rather than the outside back of the shelves. Go visit a library stack area that has movable bookshelves to get an idea of what can be done if you go whole-hog, though a more limited approach will probably work and fit the budget better.
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single handle shower faucet sticking - can I fix without turning water off? New homeowner of a condo and have a problem with single handle shower faucet sticking. It's really hard to pull out. Can I fix without turning water off? Problem is that water shutoff is a single one to the whole building -- have to give 48 hours notice and inconvenience my new neighbors. <Q> That is a Moen brand shower valve. <S> It has a cartridge (plastic or brass) that inserts into the valve body, retained by a "U" shaped clip. <S> The cartridges get sticky over time which can be remedied with waterproof plumber's grease <S> but I would probably replace the whole cartridge. <S> Smart builders/plumbers frequently install shower valves with built-in shut off valves, for apartments and condos. <S> These are called "integral stop" valves. <S> Remove the knob and trim plate to see if there are integral stops on the hot and cold water supplies, they will be a part of the shower valve and will look something like this: <S> The small stems with the slots are the stop valves, which can be operated with a screwdriver. <S> If you do not see the integral stops, the main water supply needs to be shut off prior to servicing the cartridge. <A> Most showers do not have shut off valves like sinks & toilets do. <S> I would check with the building manager or maintenance person (sounds like you did this). <S> When you disassemble the valve to repair it water will flow unless turned off. <S> so the answer would be No the water needs to be turned off to repair the internals of a valve. <A> A throughly equipped modern plumber (or a seriously motivated macgyver DIYer) could improvise a shutoff where no shutoff exists by freezing a section of pipe. <S> The plumber would have a portable pipe freezing refrigeration unit - or possibly one that uses carbon dioxide (total loss) as the cool source. <S> The DIYer would have to rent one of those if the local tool rental has one, or kludge up a way to hold an ice/salt mixture around the pipe until it freezes.
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The water needs to be turned off but you may be able to do it right at the unit.
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What options are there for door stops away from a wall? I have a number of doors in different situations where opening the door fully will hit various things, in all cases I don't have a wall behind the door to fix a normal stop to. The only solution I can currently think of are the stops you screw in the floor, but they would be a trip hazard. I assume using those floor stops near the hinge would be a bad idea because it would wrench the hinges? What other options are there for preventing a door opening too far? For what it's worth these are the different situations: Door corner collides with sloping ceiling when open 135deg Door face collides with kitchen cupboard knob at 90 deg Door edge collides with bookcase at 150 deg <Q> I'd look at hinge stops, and use them in pairs (or even triples). <S> They apply a large force to the hinge screws and the door skin, so using multiples distributes the load. <S> For reference only. <S> If your doors are very heavy, consider a closer as recommended by Ed Beal. <A> I've used floor stops -- either permanently mounted to the floor or wall if that can be done without creating a trip hazard, or the old step-to-apply, step-to-release spring stops with rubber feet many of us remember from classrooms. <A> A bit expensive but it may solve your problem without creating a trip hazard. <S> Other than this a rubber wedge type stop would be useful, but it sounds like you want something better than a wedge.
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I would use a door closer that can hold open like this .
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How should I repair mounting holes drilled into pvc window frames? A previous owner had drilled holes into the pvc frames to fit blinds, which have since been removed leaving small holes. I'm not expecting pvc can be filled flawlessly, but what would be the best thing to do? White silicone? <Q> It is not a material that will sand very well after the fact. <S> You may also want to try a bathroom tub and sink sealer product. <S> These products bridge gaps fairly well and dry staying a nice white color. <S> The product that I have used for sinks and tubs is the one pictured below. <S> Also be aware of several things. <S> If screws had been applied into the PVC window frame the screw threads probably made a portion of the PVC surface stick out at the hole edge. <S> This may need to be trimmed carefully so that your patched holes will be flat. <S> If the window frame was made only of PVC with no internal wood structure the only thing the patch material will be adhering to is the edges of the hole. <S> This will mean that the patch could pop in or out of someone were to be poking at it. <A> Basically i think you should just fill it with white Silicone. <S> Simply position the pistol tip slightly above the drill hole and fill in the silicone material in the drill hole. <S> I think this will work perfectly for you, see http://www.window-frame.com/drilled_window_frame.php <S> Best regards maax <A> I had similar in a static caravan i bought, i used either similar sized screws with a plastic coated white head (Screwfix) or the plastic caps which snap over screws. <S> To be honest, most look like they should be there, but depends on how many and how big the holes are <A> What you need is to use hard wax sticks. <S> They can be bought online for about £3.00 ish and come in many different colours. <S> Take a look here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftlYTtM4768
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White silicon may work to plug the holes but if you use it make sure to get the surface finish the way you want it before the stuff dries.
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Are surface mount deadbolt latch door lock inherently unsafe? I want to install a digital lock on my front door. It is surface mounted and its latch-catch is attached to the jambs by just 2 screws. My house is in a gated community, so o don't expect anyone kicking the door anytime soon, but I'm afraid that just the regular opening and closing and checking if the door is locked might loosen the screws or even end up damaging the whole catch. <Q> In security the principle of weakest link applies. <S> The material of the door, the frame, hinges and the part which is most often overlooked: how well is the frame mounted to the wall pay equal role in providing security. <S> There is nothing inherently wrong in surface <S> mounted lock - if the door is tough enough to withstand the localized stress. <S> But if the door is weak, installing the full-width bar serves little purpose as well - it would be enough to break half of the door and crawl under the reinforcement. <S> I don't know what type of lock are you used to. <S> If you're comparing surface-mounted lock with a one mounted inside the door (like knob tongue), then surface is massively more secure. <S> Mounting a lock on the inside means removing portion of the door in the place where breaching force will be applied, while surface mounted one has full thickness to hold on to. <S> Same goes with catch. <S> Here where I live (Poland), surface mounted locks became dominant about 20 years ago for this very reason. <S> Also keep in mind that adding more locks means drilling more holes, so at some point extra locks actually make the door weaker instead of stronger. <S> If you have door with integrated locking mechanism, consider changing one of existing locks to an electronic one rather than adding extra. <S> You should not be concerned about regular opening and closing, pulling the locked door, etc. <S> Properly tightened screws will not spontaneously loosen themselves. <S> Which leads us to the most important part: manuals. <S> Types of locks allowed for the door and types of doors allowed for the lock should be all explained there. <A> If by "unsafe" you meant that the catch can be overcome fairly easily with blunt force, then yes, this is unsafe. <S> Nothing short of high-security hardware, properly installed, is "safe" in my book. <S> If you're looking to keep out nuisance kids and lazy thieves, use that. <S> If you're looking to defend against armed burglars or other human threats, don't trust it. <A> From what little you have shown us, I'll fault it for inadequate attachment to door frame, and possibly to door. <S> There are reasonably strong surface-mount ("rim") locksets. <S> The Seagal-style vertical deadbolt design is something of a classical in that space; a non-junk lock, installed properly with hardened screws thru frame and into actual wall joists, can be as mechanically strong as a hinge. <S> However, many customers consider those ugly.
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Using a proper threadlocker can also help (if and only if lock and door manual allows using threadlocker.) It's not possible to tell if the surface mounting alone will be the point of failure in your setup.
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What is this mysterious pipe in my back yard? There's a plastic pipe with a vent cover in my back yard that runs to a green cap in the middle of the yard. What is this for? I don't have a septic tank. Update: this picture shows the entire length of the pipe that I'm aware of. The green cap from my second picture wasn't visible from this angle so I marked it with the piece of cardboard. Update 2: Based on everybody's comments, I felt comfortable digging it up. Here's the entire thing: Thanks for all the help everyone! Your comments/answers let me dig up this unused nuisance I've had to mow and trim around for far too long. <Q> This could be part of a larger yard drainage system. <S> It could also drain onto a deep buried french drain construction consisting of a sizeable hole that was filled with crushed rock or similar. <S> The fact that the part of the pipe that has the screen is working its way out of the ground seems to imply that there is stress on the pipe from the end that is still buried. <S> This could be due to settling at the buried end or the pipe was originally installed and buried by forcing it into the trench and then not covering it with enough soil. <S> I bring this up because there is evidence that the filter screen end was buried at one time: <A> Looks like a rain gutter or sump pump outlet. <S> Place a noisy device directed into it and walk around and listen. <S> You could probably bury the white pipe and just leave the grille exposed, flush with the lawn. <A> It's an NDS Pro pop-up drainage emitter http://www.ndspro.com/catalog/category/view/s/pop-up-emitters/id/227/ <S> I took the approach of noticing the acronym on the cap, figuring out what company it was and seeing which of their products match. <A> This is most likely connected to your house roof down pipe. <S> Should be able to find out if your roof down pipes are not connected to drainage they likely go down the side of your house and enter the ground; probably a small water trap made from cement at the side of your house. <S> The water trap will have a drainage pipe similar to phot you have shown running through your yard. <S> Sometimes the pipes runs from your house directly to the street gutter or when this is too far or not feasible it runs the water into your yard and disperses it. <S> I am suprised <S> you have not tracked the pipe back to your house??
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It could let water from the screened end of the pipe drain out into some buried drain field.
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What finish can I put on my pallet floor to fill cracks? What finish can I put on my pallet floor to fill in cracks and have an even, thick top coating? <Q> If you built a floor out of pallet boards I would expect that the floor would be uneven, have cracks between boards and rough surfaces. <S> That style is pretty much what you get with this type of material!! <S> There is not much that you could do with it except to rip it out and go with something more conventional. <S> You may be able to cover it with a floor leveling material if all the pallet boards are solidly nailed in <S> but then you are still looking at having to install some new floor surface over that. <A> If this is salvaged wood from pallets, you can sand it all down and groove out all the cracks. <S> Then, you can cut little "Dutchmen" to fit those larger cracks, glue them in, and plane that level with the floor. <A> Table epoxy comes to mind, but it certainly wouldn't be a cheap solution. <S> Like Michael Karas said, you have to expect a rustic look with pallet wood. <A> Pallet wood probably has some variance in thickness. <S> Also there has to be some slight warping. <S> I really really heavy coat of polyurethane could even out the walking area and fill in the gaps. <S> This is provided the subfloor could stop the liquid flow from seeping to whatever is below it.
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If the larger cracks are sealed, you could then coat the floor with a polyurethane or something similar.
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How to install a house number plaque on vinyl siding? I need to install house numbers on my house. I have obtained an aluminium plaque with the numbers and I'm now wondering the best way to install it onto the house. The house has vinyl siding, and underneath the siding is ZIP system sheathing. From some googling around, it would seem that I have two options: Drill screws through the siding, into the sheathing, to secure the plaque. Obtain some sort of vinyl siding hook, and use it to hang the plaque on top of the siding. Which of these approaches would be best to take? My concern with screw approach is, of course, the fact that moisture may be able to get behind the siding. The ZIP system serving as a moisture barrier may additionally complicate this; I'm not sure. The siding hook seems like a nice and simple approach, but I don't know how permanent the installation will be and if it is difficult to find hooks compatible with siding. The plaque comes with screws and is clearly intended to be screwed in, as described in the instructions. I would just follow the directions exactly but they do not mention vinyl siding or dealing with exposure to water, something that I've been warned to be concerned about. <Q> I would just use silicone, as you can you can just rub it off after it is done (I would expect a small bit of damage but nothing that destroys integrity). <S> You might need to tape it until the silicone is dry if the numbers are heavy. <A> They are available in both metal and plastic. <S> I am currently using a plastic hook to hang a house number plaque over my garage. <S> It has held up fine for almost 3 years now. <S> Just google vinyl siding hooks and you will find a wide selection. <S> If your plaque is heavy, you can use 2 hooks. <S> The one i am using is called VZ Hang 7 Pack Vinyl Siding Hook and is available from Amazon and directly from the manufacturer (cheaper than Amazon). <A> I have hung a 4x8 ft trellis spaced 3" from the wall and supporting a large climbing <S> rose on the side of my house through the vinyl siding. <S> No leaks, and has been there for 6 years. <S> Here's how: <S> Firstly, my vinyl siding is not flat. <S> Each vinyl "board" has an upper section that is flat to the OSB sheathing of the house, and a lower protruding section that is spaced about ½" from the sheathing. <S> Drill your holes to accommodate the screw through this upper, flush-to-the-sheathing portion of the siding, so that the sign will not compress the protruding portions of the vinyl siding. <S> Fashion a short "standoff" that will space the rear of your sign the same distance as the most protruding part of your siding. <S> I cut short lengths from a plastic toilet infeed pipe for the tubular standoff, but you can probably figure a dozen ways to do this. <S> Put a dab of silicone or exterior caulk on the end of the standoff that will sit on the siding. <S> Pass the screw through the sign and the standoff and fasten into the sheathing. <S> Done!
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There are many types of hooks designed for hanging objects from vinyl siding.
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Hardwiring a plugged light I have a light that has a switch on the fixture and then plugs into the wall. I want to wire this directly into a circuit in my camper. Overall, I'm just looking for a quick explanation of how to do this. Also, looking at the wiring from the lamp, I only see 2 wire which I assume are the hot and neutral. This leads me to believe it is grounded inside of the fixture. When connecting this light to the circuit, do I also connect the ground wire from my circuit? Thanks <Q> The power going to the light socket is the black or hot wire to the center tab in the fixture, the white or neutral goes to the outer threaded part of the socket. <S> If you want to hard wire <S> this you should use a cord grip where it enters the box to protect the wires from being cut and or being pulled out if someone trips over the cord <A> National (U.S. ) <S> Electrical Code allows flexible cords for lighting with proper grommets as long as itIs safe and workmanlike. <S> However Code does not apply to a vehicle. <S> Two wires means ungrounded. <S> Neutral is not ground. <A> All connections must be made inside of an UL approved enclosure, which means you need to install a box and run some wire, because feeding this directly into a circuit will make it permanent . <S> You'll also need a pendant canopy, the appropriate grommets, and a strain relief. <S> (sounds like a lot of work to me, just to free up an outlet)
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Many cord connected light fixtures do not have a ground.
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Acceptable joist depth for a second set of ceiling-only joists Background I'm installing a new ceiling in the kitchen of the bottom unit of a multi-family home. The house is quite old and uses 2x8 (actually 2"x7.5", not 1.5"x7.5", due to era of lumber) over a 12 foot span, which experience more deflection than is ideal but is certainly acceptable. This does create more transfer of impact noise (foot steps, dropping things, etc). I have isolation clips for the ceiling furring ( http://www.kineticsnoise.com/arch/isomax.html ) but, now that we're not installing recessed lighting, I'm considering adding a second, separate set of joists to hang the ceiling from. Problem What is the minimum joist depth and maximum spacing needed for new joists that support only a ceiling (since there are separate existing joists carrying the load of the floor)? My calculations for two layers of 5/8" drywall/blueboard and some mass-loaded vinyl come to just over 5 lbs/sqft. There will be additional weight in veneer plaster and a trivial amount in light fixtures. All span calculators I can find accept a minimum of 10 lbs/sqft of live load and an additional 10 lbs/sqft of dead load. This situation seems to me to be around 6-7 lbs/sqft of dead load and essentially no live load over a 12 ft span. Trying to figure out if I can get away with 2x4s or need 2x6s or can cut 2x6s down to 2x5s, etc and whether I can space them every 24" or need to stick with 16". Not so much a matter of cost as of space for other sound proofing materials and considerations. Deflection concern in this case is to avoid veneer plaster cracking. To clarify, this image is roughly what I'm planning for, where the red joists are to be added and whose dimensions I'm trying to determine. <Q> You’re dealing with “impact sound control “ not “airborne sound control “. <S> Stacking 2 layers of 5/8” gypsum board on “hat channels “ is not the best way to control impact sound. <S> First <S> We control impact sound (walking in high heels, dropping objects, etc.) at the source by using soft materials to walk on, (carpet, cushioned vinyl flooring, etc.), and isolate the underlayment from the subfloor and joists with sound absorbing fiber board. <S> If you don’t have access to the floor above your unit, then adding sound control below is difficult...but not impossible. <S> Second <S> Isolating your ceiling from the floor above is correct, but using Resilient Channels, not hat channels. <S> The transfer of impact noises down to your space needs to be isolated.... <S> that’s why adding ceiling material to the bottom of the floor joists does not work AND WHY using hat channels does not work as well as Resilient Channels. <S> Yes, the new ceiling joists (isolated from the floor joist above) helps isolate the ceiling from the floor above, but impact noises travels through the framing. <S> Hat channels do not isolate the impact noise. <S> By the way, your loading seems a little light: two layers of 5/8” gypsum board is 6.25 psf, hat channels is about .5 psf, new 2x6 joists at 16” <S> oc is 1.5 psf, PLUS, I would add: rock wool insulation at 4” at 2 psf, 1/2” fiber sound board at 2 psf and misc. <S> (lights, etc.) <S> at 1 psf... <S> for a total dead load of 13.25 psf. <S> (Even the crappiest grade of 2x6 at 16” oc will support that for 12’) <S> I’d recommend: isolating the ceiling joists from the wall by installing sound board between the new ceiling joists and the wall, installing 4” of rock wool in the existing floor joists, in the stud spaces and on top of the new ceiling, <S> don’t install your light in the ceiling (cutting s hole for a wire allows sound into your space, install 1/2” sound deadening board on top of your new ceiling joists (if possible, <S> install 5/8” gypsum board on RC -1 channels on gypsum board on RC-1 channels on the 2x6 ceiling joists, caulk the perimeter with sound control caulk <S> ...leave the 1/4” spacing at the wall as per your insert you referenced. <S> Yes, two layers of gypsum board is better than one, and separating the layers with RC channels is best. <A> Old <S> I know <S> but worth it <S> : Lee Stan has the right idea but, To answer your question more directly <S> - **** <S> The joists should be AT LEAST 2x6 and can be mounted or hung lower than the rafters using joist hangers. <S> California is different than others for example Also for 5/8 double layer drywall with essentially staggered ceiling <S> Green Glue compound performs better than MLV and saves weight and money <S> ** ** <A> After reading more of what you want I would use 2x6" for the span and 16" centers with hangers this would be enough to support the ceiling and even recessed lighting like this . <S> hung at the bottom this will provide the isolation you are looking for. <S> We use these hangers for supporting overhangs with sheeting and roofing all the time and for decks. <S> I would hand select the boards to get the best quality #2 or better but if you can afford #1's because today's lumber is not of the quality <S> it was 20 years ago because of the smaller trees. <A> Just stuffing the ceiling with Roxul will give you a pretty good idea how much noise reduction you can expect. <S> I think that two sheets of 5/8" drywall are overkill and not as effective as separate sheets or a single sheet on resilient channel (even the cheaper variety of channel, but you have to be careful with your screws so as not to accidentally provide a solid vibration path) <S> Having separate joists will help. <S> A lot of inter-party walls in condos are double walled, so two separate sets of 2x4" studs with insulation and 5/8" drywall on the occupied-space side of the walls. <S> These are very good as long as you don't have outlets positioned back to back on the inter-party walls. <S> I've seen a 2x4 drop ceiling with a 14' span and 1/2" drywall below a bedroom, and that seemed fine, but the deflection calculators online tend to indicate that 2x4's might be marginal, and 2x6 should be used, especially if they are only hung at the ends and no support along the span, as might be needed to reduce sound transfer. <S> Either 16"or 24" centers, whichever is more convenient. <S> Electrical boxes can be covered by Roxul as well, or more sophisticated sound deadening membrane. <S> Also, any penetrations in the floor above for pipes should be sealed around with something like a latex caulk. <S> If I was going to make it cheaper, I would just put the channel on the bottom of the existing joists, and stuff the cavity with Roxul. <S> (Roxul is way better than fibreglass at sound dampening)
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You can get a very decent sound reduction by using Roxul insulation and being careful about how it is cut and installed so that there are no holes or channels for sound to travel through. If it were my project would probably do Roxul against the subfloor above, hang new 2"x6" on 24" with joist hangers and bracing between the new joists, then resilient channel and 5/8" or 1/2" drywall. Note the joist width is entirely dependent on your local codes for your span.
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Can I safely create another 120V outlet using the fourth neutral wire from a 4 wire 240V line? I recently just ran a 4 conductor 240 volt line out to my shed. I chose to run the extra conductor just in case, but I do not currently need it for my application. My question is, can I add a 120V receptacle using the extra neutral line as long as I tap into the same ground as the 240V is using, or possibly another grounded outlet in the room? If not, then how do appliances make use of the fourth neutral to power clocks and things safely? <Q> You didn't say what you're doing with the other side. <S> It depends an awful lot on that. <S> If the circuit breaker in the main panel is 20 amps or less, and <S> the existing load is 120V (i.e. between hot and neutral), you can make it a multi-wire branch circuit which is basically what you're talking about. <S> (By "multi-wire" they mean multi-hot.) <S> Why 120V only? <S> You can't do an MWBC if there are any 240V loads on the circuit. <S> Why 20A or less? <S> Nothing about an MWBC requires that. <S> (Except 15A outlets are allowed on 20A circuits). <S> So if the breaker is 30A, you can't use common outlets or lighting. <S> If the above rules don't allow you to do MWBC, then a sub-panel will handle it. <A> You cannot simply tap the neutral to put an outlet in -- however, since you have 4 wires running there, you can install a subpanel at the shed and feed the outlet from a 120V circuit on the subpanel. <A> The 4th conductor is not "extra" (unless you actually have 4 + ground.) <S> Line1, <S> Line2, <S> Neutral (grounded), <S> Ground (grounding). <S> Ground and Neutral isolated from each other , since this is a sub-panel type feed (whether or not you have a sub-panel installed - <S> a sub-panel is the easy way to get what you want, though.) <S> Ground connected to a ground rod (or two) <S> and/or UFER ground if you have concrete foundation at shed.
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And disallows ordinary wired lighting on >20A breakers. If you do MWBC, it's best to feed it with a 2-pole breaker, which, by definition, takes 2 full spaces in the panel -- never, never, never a duplex/tandem breaker that crams 2 breakers into one space. But a different rule requires outlets have the same rating as the breaker. (You will have to drive a ground rod there and tie it to the subpanel ground, and of course make sure that the ground and neutral busses are separated.)
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What knots/hitches should I use to attach a log to a screw eye? I have a log that I want to hang against the wall, creating a small shelf. I'm attaching the logs to two iron screw eyes using 1/4" hemp rope, for a rustic look. Here's a diagram: The screw eyes don't have a closed loop; they're open-ended like a hook. The log itself is very lightweight, and I don't plan on storing anything heavy on the log itself. The two candidate logs have several flat edges, they're not perfectly circular (see pictures below). What knots/hitches should I use to attach the rope to the log and screw eye? My main goals would be to have a secure hold on the log. Beyond that, having an aesthetically pleasing hitch would be nice, too. Initial googling pointed to a timber hitch to attach the log to the rope, but I also read that it's only secure under load, and comes easily undone (it's designed for dragging timber along the ground, I think). Here are images of the two candidate logs (I'll only use one, unless I do this project twice): <Q> A boom hitch (ABoK #1687), might look nice around the log. <S> A simple bowline (ABoK #1010), or other secure loop would be fine for the hooks. <S> A simple loop with a decorative weave on the standing end, might also look nice. <S> That way the decorative bit would be above/below the loop. <A> I would suggest a taut-line hitch if you want something that will slip tight or allow you to make adjustments. <S> It has three loops around the main line and is a bigger knot. <S> I suggest a bowline if you want a loop of a fixed size that will not slip. <S> It has some pleasing loops and a bit of a tail. <A> For the log end of the rope, it sounds to me like you want to avoid the log tipping to one side and sliding out of the knot. <S> If that's the case, an anchor bend around the center of the log. <S> Another option is a round turn and two half hitches .
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For the hook end, any loop knot that won't collapse: An overhand loop would be easiest, but either a bowline or a figure-eight loop would be great.
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Identifying positive and negative speaker wires My house came with 2 wall speakers. There is wiring for both of them. The right and left speakers have 2 wires each. I'm trying to hook them up to my amp but I have no idea which wire is positive or negative. They are both copper Neither wire has a stripe The insulation for both wires is the same color (gray) There is no + or - indicator on the insulation I'm at a loss. I also tried hooking up one speaker and then swapping the wires to see if the sound quality was noticeably different one way or the other. I honestly can't tell, it sounds good either way. Sorry it's blurry but as you can see the wiring is identical. The insulation as Ecnerwal mentions in his answer is different - one is smooth and one ridged. <Q> Note that the wire doesn't care which is positive and which is negative. <S> Nor do the speakers, really; what matters is that both/all speakers be in phase with each other. <S> So if the same side of the speaker wire is always hooked to the same terminal at the signal source (amp), and the same side is always hooked to the same terminal of the speakers (even if all the speakers are backwards -- as long as it is all of them), everything will work properly. <S> (I usually adopt some mnemonic such as "ridged to red", to help remember which convention I've chosen.) <A> Look closer at the insulation - there's nearly always a physical clue, such as tiny ridges on one wire, not on the other. <A> It is up to you to decide for yourself how to allocate them. <S> And it really doesn't matter with speakers as long as you are consistent. <S> For what it's worth, in 120/230 mains wiring, there is a standard that the ridged wire is neutral. <S> In a DC system, a common convention is to consider the - terminal to be near/at ground reference, which is analogous to neutral in mains power.
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That wire is distinguished by ridges on one side and writing on the other.
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How can I cut a bolt off flush with concrete in a corner? I've got the top of an old rusty bolt sticking out the ground in a corner (see image) I've tried flattening it with a heavy hammer. Can't get a hacksaw in there. Suggestions for leveling that bolt to the surface? <Q> If there's actually concrete under the dirt, chisel it out is still an option. <S> I'm unclear as to how that's not accessible to a hacksaw - looks plenty accessible to me. <S> An oxy-acetylene cutting torch would be another way. <A> Try one of those oscillating multi-tools. <S> They can cut metal (with the right blade), and cut flush to the surface, even in a corner. <A> Since you were able to flatten it with a hammer, it may be soft enough that a single-jack and a cold chisel might do the trick. <S> There are also some small hacksaws where the blade extends by itself without the surrounding bow, but they are usally fairly awkward to use. <A> You could always drill it out with a HSS drill bit. <S> (Probably cheaper than buying a new tool if you don't already have one; but if you do have one, Daniel's answer is better.) <A> Whether it is rebar, nails, or any kind of metal <S> I use an angle grinder with your discount blades (the $5 10-pack from HF). <S> You can level something like that in 15-20 seconds and <S> dirt doesn't matter (I might choose my $20 angle grinder if dirt was in the way). <S> Wear glasses if you value your eyes <S> but it is a quick job. <S> Also more expensive blades are useless. <S> If I use a cheap blade I can go through 5-6 rebar rods. <S> If I use a great blade that is 10 times the price I can go through 7-8. <A> An angle grinder is probably going to get the job done (Yes, Daniel, it's been mentioned!) <S> but if it couldn't simply grind off parallel with the surroundings, due to lack of space (which doesn't look like a problem), a slightly longer job is to grind it parallel to the rod 9downwards), working across it. <A>
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Other than a hacksaw, a sawzall (reciprocating saw) or angle grinder with cutoff disk are typical powertool approaches. Torch and a sledge hammer, that should do it Since it appears to be in dirt, dig it out would appear to be an option.
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Should I use remodel or new construction recessed fixtures when installing a new ceiling? We have a stomped ceiling on the first floor in our new home (built in 1969) that we want to get rid of. Every contractor we've talked to says that scraping it off isn't an option because it's been painted over, so we are opting to install another layer of drywall over the existing textured ceiling. We could also rip down the ceiling, but that seems like more work than we want to do right now, but if that's the ideal scenario, please comment on that. Since I have the opportunity, I want to install recessed lighting because I can cut into the current ceiling and run electrical and cut as many holes as I need to in the drywall since the ceiling will be covered over. My question is: Would it be better / easier to use remodel or new construction fixtures? Here are the scenarios I am currently envisioning as options. Install remodel cans into the existing ceiling and then drywall over this with the new ceiling and cut holes for the cans in the new 1/2 inch drywall. This would mean that the lip of the remodel can is stuck between the new and old drywall and the trim that I attach to the can would have 1/2 of drywall between it and the actual can. This is what I'm leaning toward, for ease of installation, but is it a problem to have the trim 1/2 in away from the can, with the trim against the drywall? Cut bigger holes in the old drywall and use new construction cans. This seems like it'd be more work, but I could lower the edge of the can down to the edge bottom edge of the new drywall, so the trim is right up against the can. Install remodel cans into the old drywall and wire them up, then take them down when the new drywall goes up and then cut new holes in the same places and re-install them so the lip is flush to the new drywall (but I would have to modify the clips so they can accommodate 1" thick drywall). Bring down the old ceiling completely and use new construction cans. (seems like a lot of work) The only other concern I have is that 1-2 rooms are additions to the house where there is no attic access, but I believe (hope!) there is insulation above them. Do either the remodel or new construction install lend themselves to making sure that I get adequate insulation above the cans if I can only access them from below? I am using IC rated cans even when there's no insulation. Thanks for your input and advice! EDIT: I did remove the ceilings and it was a good thing too, found several issues including HVAC vents cut off without being replaced so that a few rooms didn't have heat or cooling! <Q> Scenario #4 <S> I would just remove all the old drywall and use new construction fixtures. <S> It may seem like a lot of work but all these other problems go away. <S> Plus my "drywall guy" would throw a hissy fit trying to finish a layer over another layer with a texture. <S> The drywall won't lay flat like it should and finishing will cost you more money or it won't look right. <S> Pulling down old drywall goes a lot faster than you think, especially if it is nailed instead of screwed. <S> Once you get started large pieces can be pulled down. <S> One problem is the ceiling drywall is usually installed first so the wallboard is supporting it (trapping it) at the edge of the room. <S> While pulling it down the wallboard could be damaged if it is not cut loose. <S> Replacing it will require inserting the new ceiling drywall above the wallboard. <S> Good luck! <A> I was going to suggest you find a better contractor, as painted popcorn can be scraped. <S> (Though it is more work than raw popcorn.) <S> But when you started talking moisture/insulation concerns, I came around to the 'tear down the old and put up new' option. <S> As noted, it'll make wiring easier along with the other benefits. <A> Recessed lighting which penetrates your building envelope can be a huge source of energy loss (both for cooling and heating). <S> In your case, any penetration into your attic may have that effect because the ceiling is probably serving as the air barrier. <S> I cite some good articles below. <S> But in brief, the cans require (obviously) huge holes in your ceiling which unwanted airflow. <S> However, you can do this right and seal it properly and avoid that issue. <S> I believe that really good installers would build an airtight, foam-sealed box around the can in the attic, as well as insulating properly. <S> But personally I prefer traditional screw-in fixtures using LED bulbs. <S> These seem easier to me to maintain in the long run, since you can just replace the bulb if needed, rather than the entire fixture. <S> This is not an issue in ceilings which are between interior floors. <S> References: <S> Ban <S> the Can - Why you should avoid recessed lights Fine Homebuilding - <S> Recessed <S> Can Lights <S> How-To What To Do With All That Recessed Lighting? <A> I vote for #4, tear down. <S> It is not that much more work. <S> just the time to do the demolition (and i like demolition <S> but thats me.) <S> You are already doing a complete new drywall and have an open space <S> give you a chance to inspect everything for problems and rewire, insulate, vapor barrier and new construction boxes attached to structure. <S> I also vote for LED LIGHTS. <S> What is "stomped", dancing on the ceiling? <S> , textured with mud? <S> the answer to that does not change my answer. <A> Whenever dealing with ceilings and you need to get rid of texture, do major repairs, rescrew, electrical, any kind of major work... <S> It is always faster, cheaper, and better to take down drywall. <S> Been doing this work for years. <S> This is a hard and fast rule because there is always "something else" that comes up or you want to do. <S> The only reason to not take down the drywall is if you are living in that space or worried about collateral damage.
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Don't worry about the ceiling drywall pinched at the top by the wall drywall -- just cut it flush. Note that there are some nice LED options which look a lot like cans but are not actually recessed ; these may cause fewer problems.
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Is it safe to pass a natural gas hose under a wooden step, and to keep it pressurized? Is it safe to take a flexible natural gas hose such as the one pictured and pass it under a patio's wooden stairs to reach a BBQ? Can it simply lie on the concrete under the patio? Can you ever leave a hose such as the one pictured pressurized overnight, or must you always turn off the incoming gas, rather than simply turning off at the BBQ? Suppose you're hardy and intend to broil something once in a while in freezing temperatures, can such a hose be left outside over winter? <Q> For example, the hose may not be rated for continuous outdoor UV exposure. <S> And your grill probably says to turn off the gas at the source; the burner valves are not designed to hold up against supply pressure indefinitely. <S> Is it safe to take a flexible natural gas hose such as the one pictured and pass it under a patio's wooden stairs to reach a BBQ? <S> Can it simply lie on the concrete under the patio? <S> That should be fine. <S> Just make sure it's not easily stepped on, or rubbing against an edge. <S> And don't let water freeze on it. <S> Can you ever leave a hose such as the one pictured pressurized overnight, or must you always turn off the incoming gas, rather than simply turning off at the BBQ? <S> No. <S> You need to turn the hose off when it's not in use. <S> If this were connected to a cylinder it would be less of an issue since the cylinder has a fixed volume of gas. <S> But since this is hooked up to a gas supply line, it could be days or weeks before a leak is noticed, potentially creating a huge pocket of trapped gas. <S> can such a hose be left outside over winter? <S> Check the ratings on the hose. <A> I have a multi outlet tank that I use camping hoses look like yours. <S> One goes to a lantern that runs all night one to a water heater and one to the stove. <S> The instructions say to turn off when not in use <S> but we never do. <S> We have been in freezing temperatures with snow quite a few times the only problem is if the tank is low we have to switch to a full one until it warms up <S> then we can finish off the low tank. <S> I have been using this setup for over 20 years that's a lot of setups & take down's <S> and we have never had any problem (2 of the hoses are 15' 1 is 3'). <S> I should add for Carl <S> this setup normally my system is set up outside close to my creek during the summer months and has been for many years it has been outside for more than 10 years over the last 22 years I only take it down for going hunting and when the creek starts over running its banks. <A> 11 years constantly outside in Ohio w. all 4 seasons. <S> Never turned off. <S> Is protected from weedeaters and abrasion. <S> Another anecdotal data point that you can leave it on for a decade and not worry. <S> Grill is now dead, I will replace the hose and natural gas conversion kit w. another new one.
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Before we get in to the answers to your specific questions, you first need to read the instructions that come with the hose and whatever you hook it up to. I would say if it is outside and not damaged by weed eaters or being pinched by the steps it should be Ok.
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Why are ball valves spherical instead of cylindrical? It seems strange to me that ball valves are ball-shaped, when I would have thought a rotating cylinder with a transverse hole cut in the same way would be easier and cheaper to machine. Does anyone have any ideas? <Q> A sphere allows for sealing with simple o-rings in a flat configuration. <S> This simplifies design, component acquisition, assembly, and repair and maintenance. <A> Stopcocks use a cylindrical axle. <S> As far as machining is concerned, it is cheaper to make a ball than to make a cylinder of the same diameter and the same finish grade. <A> Not to be disagreeable, but the idea of calling a spherical valve a "ball valve" seems logical to me. <S> To call a cylindrical valve a "ball" valve would be... <S> more strange. <S> Actually, the term "ball valve" is distinguished as a kind of stopcock (that uses a sperical valve). <S> But "stopcock" includes ball valves or the cylindrical kind of valve that you described. <S> Stopcock is defined (by google) as: an externally operated valve regulating the flow of a liquid or gas through a pipe. <S> Cylindrical valves are the kind of valve that most faucets actually use (fancy cylinders are called cartidges or stem valves); but because ball valves are so popular (I guess), valves which are called "stopcocks" or "stop valves" tend to refer to the simplest cylindrical (or conical) valve; and less often does the term stopcock refer to a ball or stem valve. <S> If you search for stopcocks online, you will probably find many cylindrical or conical valves which are used in chemistry apparatuses- especially because they are easier to disassemble and clean <S> and they can be less prone to chemical and thermal damage. <S> But again, technically, a stopcock is a broader term which basically includes any valve, typically operated by hand.
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Ball valves use less metal and are more reliable because the seal is a simple circle, whereas in a stopcock an entire surface has to mate.
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What tools will help when removing a glued down floor? We are having a very hard time getting a glued down floor up. We have tried using large scrapers, a crowbar, and a hammer, none have been effective. Are there any other recommended tools that we should try? We have an air compressor so pneumatic tool recommendations would also be welcomed. <Q> If it is vinyl sheet flooring, I pulled up as much as possible to get to the layer the glue is bonded to and used paint remover. <S> It soaked through the layers, softened the glue where I could use a 4" drywall taping knife to remove it to the subfloor. <A> Normally you would use floor scraper machine, hand held, MK Diamond 14 <S> Amp 1.5 HP Manual Floor Scraper 167676.You might be able to go to a tool rental location as they may have these, we use Sun Belt Tool Rentals here, but there are others. <S> If all else fails you can always call a company like Stanley Steemer or Coit. <S> They may provide these flooring removal services for you as I know they do in my area. <S> Good Luck <A> Depending on the kind of glue (ie., those cheap, self adhereing tiles), a heat gun (or maybe a hair dryer) could help (do not use heat in conjunction with paint thinner). <S> Also, many tiles use water based glues... which you could use on concrete, but if you have wood subfloor, you don't want to (water) damage the wood. <S> Alternative: <S> For the amount of work, you should consider adding new subflooring on over the old floor.
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These mechanical scrapers are loud and create heat to scrape the carpet in strips, you may need another machine to remove the adhesive which essentially looks like a floor polisher.
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How can I control lights on a 3-way circuit with a timer? I have a roommate who comes home at night and leaves the f@$%ing light in the hallway on, and I find it really annoying. She's not malicious, just a bit distracted, so I want to install some sort of light switch or something that will automatically turn off after 15 minutes of being turned on. This light is controlled by two switches, one at one end of the hallway and one on the other. There are many programmable light switches , but they all seem to require a pre-set schedule, rather than an option to turn off after they were turned on, and also, I don't know how they interact with each other (since I would presumably need to install one in the switch at each end of the hallway). Does anyone have any suggestions? <Q> How about a light switch with a motion sensor? <S> They make ones that are occupancy detectors (detecting motion and then turning on), and vacancy sensors (detecting absence of motion and then turning off). <S> They'll also have a button which can manually toggle the light on or off, and you can set the sensitivity and how long an absence is required before the light turns off. <S> California Title 24 now requires vacancy sensors in many indoor areas; try looking for switches which comply with that. <A> Old 3-way switches should have 3 wires running between them - two messengers and the return. <S> While this isn't always possible depending on where power was fed to the circuit, my preferred way is to re-task them to be always-hot, switched-hot, and neutral. <S> There are a variety of ways to do that, depending on the products you find on the market (SE isn't a product reco site). <S> You could find a 3-way-enabled smart switch which has the intelligence to auto-shut-off on a timer regardless of where it's been actuated from. <S> The most hands-free arrangement is also the most low-tech: Two motion sensors. <S> The friendly type has 3 wire connections: <S> Always-hot, switched-hot, and neutral. <S> So either motion sensor can connect always-hot to switched-hot. <S> Here's how I wire those. <A> You want a time delay switch or time lag switch <S> Random example: <S> Timing range 2 minutes - 2 hours Feather light touch activation <S> 16A maximum for incandescent, fluorescent and resistive loads Retrofit into 25mm standard back box Re-trigger and cancellation function <S> Concealed fixing screws <S> , screwless finish Blue neon indicator ring <S> Last minute indicator <S> The above is a UK product, but it is certain there are equivalents in US, CA, AU, NZ, SA, IN etc. <S> I know you can get <S> 3-way (UK: 2-way) versions because I have encountered them in cheap hotels <S> ;-) <S> Cheaper pneumatic version: <S> No neutral required
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I put "smart switches" at each location, which provide the auto-off feature you require. Many motion sensors do not like to play with each other because of the weird way they power themselves.
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Losing ceiling fans after the lightest thunderstorms. How to ascertain the cause? At my home after the lightest thunderstorms we end up losing ceiling fans - they fail to rotate. The fans' winding gets damaged despite power cuts enforced by the power supply company (they cut power during thunderstorms) and we turning off the mains. As a result, during every rainy season, we end up repairing all our fans multiple times. We are often told by electricians that - This is common in RCC ceilings as the surge often travels through the reinforcement's iron rods and ends up making a contact with the hook that hangs the ceiling fans There could be some wiring issue How can I troubleshoot this and ascertain the root cause? <Q> It's an open secret, that No standards are followed in India, and none of the electrical or any other work is up to code. <S> I too had a similar problem in the apartment that I was renting in Bangalore. <S> Every-time there was lighting and thunder, first the power used to fail, and some of the lights used to flicker, and couple of times the winding of my ceiling fans got burned, and had to be replaced. <S> I had a couple of electricians look at it, but they were of no help. <S> That's when I decided to take things in my own hands, and investigate. <S> What I found was horrible. <S> In several places, the switch was not on the live, but on the neutral. <S> This meant that often the appliances were live, (had a potential of 220v) just the circuit was not complete. <S> The circuitry of the building was such, that there was a return current on the neutral, even when there was no electricity. <S> This was probably due to wiring of two apartments sharing a neutral, and they having an inverter, or something. <S> The earthing was probably just the neutral, or the earthing plate was not properly installed. <S> I had to take the following steps: <S> Install a high quality electronic circuit-braker. <S> I forget the exact details, but I think, it was dual pole & checked for the leakage current in the earthing. <S> Fix the wiring, to make sure all switches were on Live, and <S> no appliance/connection was ever live with the switch turned off. <S> Have new wiring run to the fans, which included an Earth, which was connected to the hook that the fan was on, as well as the rod of the Fan. <S> After this, I never had any issues. <A> Wow I haven't heard of fans being damaged like the issue you are having usually computers and digital devices are damaged well before a motor is. <S> A whole house surge suppressor would help to reduce line spikes like this . <S> There are many diferent brands and sizes, they get more expensive as the size of the spike they can disipate goes up, measured in Joules. <S> When installed at the service panel they provide the best protection. <A> I had an experience. <S> In our Mosque (3 Storied Building) after a heavy lightning almost 9 Ceiling fan's winding were damaged. <S> But none of the bulbs and any other electric devices were damaged. <S> The electric wiring had no problem. <S> After detailed checking I realized that Reinforced steel members were exposed at the top floor (above 3 floor) and the ceiling fan hanging rod was touching the hook. <S> Since hooks are connected with reinforced steel members the high voltage may be came through that and it might be the cause for winding damage. <S> Two three Ceiling fan was working and their rod was not touching the hook.
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Get a proper earthing plate installed, and connected.
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how to extend washing machine drainage hose such that it doesn't leak I have a portable washing machine that I want to keep in one of our bedrooms and thus need to extend the stock drainage hose. My current solution is: buy the necessary length of clear plastic tubing wrap the existing hose with electrical tape until it barely fits inside the plastic tubing use a hose clamp to cinch down the tubing so that there are no leaks Unfortunately, my solution does not prevent all leaks; a small bit of water still leaks out. What are your suggestions? <Q> Replace this hose with a single long hose. <S> Remove the hose that came with the unit and measure the size of the fitting it was attached to. <S> This is the only correct way to do it IMO. <A> Easiest way is to buy some 20mm light duty flexible corrugated conduit from hardware store and pvc electrical conduit glue.run the glue around inside of end of drain hose and around the outside on the end of flexible corrugated conduit.insert conduit in end of drain hose,glue will dry in a few minutes or so and you are good to go with no leaks.or alternitavely <S> you can buy extra long drain hoses from plumbing wholesale stores <A> My solution was to use a dishwasher hose drain kit, cutting the 'connector piece' until it just barely fit inside the original drainage hose. <S> I then used a hose clamp to make the seal water tight.
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Go to a good hardware or plumbing shop and buy a single length of heavy duty reinforced rubber hose and a hose clamp to fit.
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Is it okay to use two 20x20 air filters instead of one 36x20 for my home AC? I am replacing the air filter for the first time. I came to find out the person before just used two filters that were size 20x20 and overlapped them. The size of the actual duct is 36x20. The 36x20 are super expensive, so I was thinking of doing what the other guy did, but I read somewhere that air might escape through if there are holes. What should I do? <Q> In order for your air filters to work correctly, they must be the exact size made for the filter box otherwise yes, dirt, dust, etc. will get sucked right through the gaps. <S> Your AC system will last much longer and be more efficient which will save you more money than the little savings you get from the previous occupants cheap fix. <A> This has saved me many more dollars over the years and 2 friends that love them. <S> It takes a few minutes to cut and install the new material but is way cheaper than standard filters. <S> Note if you need very high levels of filters these are not quite as good but better than 2 overlapping filters. <A> I'd consider having a filter holder made up that held two of the cheaper 20x20's at a sufficient angle that the full area of each was working, and made in such a way that the frame of each was fully engaged. <S> Less (replacement filter) cost, more active filter area. <S> How hard that would be to retrofit would depend on your particular installation/constraints.
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Even if you were to seal the gaps with duct tape, it would only last a little while before it came off. I think I would buy a replaceable medium frame that can be cut to size and the filter material in bulk like 25' or 50' at 36" then cut a new piece every month and replace the old one.
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Regulating voltage at end of 200 foot 120 V AC extension cable I am needing to drill some anchor bolts into concrete using an electric Hammer Drill (Electrical Rating 120VAC / 60Hz / 10A). I am working in a warehouse, and the worst case scenario, the furthest anchor point from a receptacle is 200 feet. In the past, I saw a company use a box that apparently bumped the voltage up (to regulate it) to account for the voltage drop. I have NO limitations here (other than distance) to consider when helping me. What is that 'box' called. I searched the internet for regulators, but the only thing I could find was power inverters for vehicles. Can you please point me in the right direction. I am trying to avoid having to rent a generator like I did the last time...they're LOUD and exhaust fumes indoors is deadly. <Q> To directly answer your question: what you want is a "voltage regulating transformer". <S> The issue is, in order to counter the voltage drop, you need to start at a higher voltage, so you need a transformer before the regulator. <S> Likely you will need a 240/120 V step down transformer (most common). <S> In theory there could be a 110V/120V+ step up transformer that will do a slight step up before the regulator so the regulator can regulate it down - <S> but I can't find a specific commercial device that does that. <S> Hopefully there's a 240V plug available to you, as well. <S> That being said, you should take the comments that have been made into consideration. <S> It's likely much cheaper to just get a thicker extension cord (especially consider you'll probably at least need a new 220 V cord for the transformer anyway). <S> The bigger the conductor cross-section, the less voltage drop per foot you'll experience. <S> You can do the calculations to figure out what size you need, I suspect 10 AWG as was suggested will probably be sufficient for 200 ft. <A> this one <S> (note the 36V battery pack rating, well higher than more hobbyist tools, which rate at less than 20V) or this one <S> (disclaimer: just did a quick search on google <S> , I haven't tried those models, so it's not a purchasing advice, but just an example of what exists). <S> What you'd spend could well be on par with the price of any sort of transformer or generator, and you'll have a very versatile tool that could ease other parts of your task. <S> Moreover, probably you could find someone that could lend you one or a store that could rent you one. <S> BTW, if you go the route of purchasing a cordless hammer drill, you could ask advice at Home Improvement SE . <A> If the voltage is not already a little low at the outlet, you can probably get by with a #14 AWG extension cord. <S> The voltage will be about 10% low for 10 amps and 200 feet. <S> A #12 AWG cord will drop about 6% and a #10 AWG cord will drop 4% under the same conditions. <S> The box that you have seen used was probably a non-isolation boost transformer. <A> Flowchart for your problem: 1) <S> Do you have a 200 foot extension cord? <S> If yes, try that first <S> , I believe it will be no problem. <S> But if it IS a problem, go to step 3, rent a generator and ventilation fan. <S> 2) <S> If you don't have an extension cord long enough, buy one then go back to step 1. <S> 3) Rent a generator and ventilation fan. <S> For the time it takes to do the job. <S> Use the philosophy of blowing clean air to where you are, rather than trying to blow exhaust out. <S> Everything else is going to be more expensive. <A> Thinking about this, maybe you mean an AC voltage stabiliser? <S> Something like this ? <A> I use a battery-powered hammer drill. <S> Might be cheaper to run a permanent outlet and use a 25' (or less) extension.
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Alternately, I have also seen the wording "voltage regulator converter transformer" - basically add "transformer" to the search terms you're already looking for. They´re used a lot in the audio industry, less common for your situation. Your hammer drill doesn't seem very high power (with max 10A at 120V, it's max 1200W), so probably you will be better off purchasing an industrial battery-powered hammer drill of comparable power like The box may have been a "variac." Also rent a heavy-duty fan to blow clean air into your work area.
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Range Hood Transformer Replacement to LED I have an Anacona Chef Range Hood. The two Halogen lights are not working. I suspect the transformer. I would like to replace it with the LED transformer.Is it possible? If possible, what type to install? The user installation manual for the hood is here ; the circuit diagram from the manual is below: One more question, as per the diagram, the transformer has 3 wire (GYW) as output, what are these. Are they for the three setting on the push type switch (High, Low, Off), If they are, can I bypass 1 wire (Low) as most transformers come with 2 output wires. The Input is 2 wire connected to power control on/off switch is this 110/120v? Any suggestions or answers would be highly appreciated. Thanks <Q> The halogen bulbs are 12 volts at 20 watts. <S> Almost certainly the "High" setting is 12 VAC, and the "Low" setting is the same 12 VAC but through a half wave rectifier (just a diode). <S> So, if you want to use the current switch and processor board, you'd need something that could be driven by 12VAC, both with and without a half wave rectifier. <S> The problem is that half-wave-rectified AC is a lot different from pure AC; it has a large DC component to it. <S> Some LED drivers could handle it, others couldn't. <S> I doubt you'll find a manufacturer that will sell their product as compatible with this, as it's too rare an application for them to worry about. <S> So, you can try various products, but you may find they won't work, and you may even find that the "Low" setting damages the bulb/circuit. <S> An alternative would be to install your own switch, but getting it to look good would be tough. <A> Before replacing anything, be sure that the bulbs have, in fact, failed. <S> Competing for "easiest" is replacing one of the bulbs with a known good bulb. <S> Or moving a suspected bad bulb to a known good socket. <S> I agree with @DanielGriscom: replacing halogen bulbs with LEDs which are physically and electrically compatible is very unlikely to be successful. <A> This machine has a control board full of capacitors. <S> That is more likely to be the problem than the transformer. <S> Either way, you're into a fairly serious repair adventure. <S> The transformer also supplies control voltage to the board, so a transformer failure seems unlikely. <S> It may be possible to tap the transformer directly and use the switch to bypass the board. <S> But now we're verging into electrical engineering. <S> If it's just the bulb (or if you have the machine rigged to supply 12VAC to the bulb socket), it's a matter of trying different candidate LED "bulb" products until you find one that plays nice. <S> Some LEDs have switching power supplies, and they will defeat the dimmer. <S> Others (typically 12V, intended for automotive use) are simply resistor-limited, and those should work on at least one switch setting, although potentially 3dB dimmer than intended.
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The easiest way is probably to use a DMM to measure voltage at the bulb's contacts but reaching both socket holes at the same time may not be so easy.
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Would my fridge wear or be damaged when I unplug it for a week? My fridge is fairly 3 years old ( Here is the model of my fridge) and I am usually going to be at work area for the week and do not get home until Friday night. I do not put much food in my fridge, only enough to get me through the weekend. I am hesitant of unplugging the fridge when I leave the house every week then plugging it back when I get home. What are the pros and cons of doing this, besides conserving energy? Would this do harm to my fridge overtime? <Q> Warning: <S> A refrigerator unplugged with the door closed will become a factory of disgusting mold . <S> The cure is to leave the door open. <S> However, it is impossible to keep other people from closing the door the moment they see it open. <S> We have 4 fridges at a lodge, which we unplug to save electricity. <S> Every single time I unplug a fridge and block the door open, I return to find the door closed and the inside of the fridge a disgusting nightmare. <S> When I have asked these people "why mess with it", they said either habit, or that it was sticking out, or that it merely offended their sense of order. <S> Electromechanically, the fridge won't care. <S> It will save ocmpressor wear, and also energy (though not as much as you think on a newer Energy Star model..) <S> In fact, the off-grid solar folks have stopped recommending super custom 12V fridges with 6” thick foam walls, and just say to choose well among the readily available Energy Star models, and run it off an inverter. <A> You will wear out the outlet before you harm the refrigerator. <S> However, it may be better to simply turn the setting dial to lowest (warmest) and leave the refrigerator running plugged in. <S> It'll rarely run, and it'll keep the unit from collecting moisture and growing mildew. <A> However, if there are bacteria or molds within, those tend to flourish in a room temperature refrigerator unless it is kept very dry. <S> You could relax the temperature setting so that it does not run as much but yet keeps the temperature at (say) 50 <S> °F/10 <S> °C to reduce the rate of biology experiment growth. <S> Or you could turn it off and prop the door open so that it stays dry. <S> Or you could just leave it running normally. <S> Really, how much electricity does it use if the door is not opened?
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Unplugging a refrigerator will not harm it.
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How to install 3-speed switch for ceiling fan I have a bedroom with a ceiling fan. Right now, the wall switch only controls the light (on/off, no dimmer). The only way to change the speed of the fan is by the pull chain. So if you want to change the fan speed in the middle of the night, you either have to get lucky and find the chain in the dark, or turn on the light. I bought a Legrand brand wall switch that has a 3-speed fan control built in. I wired it up according to the directions. But the switch still only controls the light and the 3-speed slider (very poorly) tries to act as a dimmer for the light. How do I get the 3-speed switch to control the speed of the fan? I'm worried that there isn't the correct wiring going to the fan. <Q> It's even worse than the above answers. <S> There is no general standard for fan designs. <S> Different fans do speed regulation different ways, and you must choose a remote speed control method which is compatible. <S> This is a "consult with the factory" sort of situation; often cheaper fans are simply not made for that. <A> it's a built in controller <S> it may only have one terminal as the active loop is already done internally when made in factory so only need to connect fan switch wire to terminal.without looking at the switch that is both options that will make your switch/fan controller work correctly <A> You need to install something like this. <S> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Legrand-Radiant-3-Speed-15-Amp-White-Indoor-Rocker-Fan-Control/1000050187 <S> Set the fan to the highest speed with the chain and leave it there. <S> Then use this switch to go between the three power levels.
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By how you have explained it you will need an extra switch wire going to your new light switch/fan controller.wire the switch as normal and loop a wire from permanent active from switch to one terminal of the 3 speed fan contoller and the extra wire you need is the return to the fan motor which you connect to other terminal of 3 speed controller and connect other end to active wire of fan motor.if
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Must outdoor GFCI power outlets be covered? I have outside the regular (i.e. non-GFCI) power outlet that you see on the left. It has a nice double-cover that will keep water out. I am about to replace it with a GFCI outlet (right of the picture). The GFCI outlet will not accept the receptacle you see on the left, because there is no room for the screw in the center. That space is occupied by the test/reset buttons. Is there any disadvantage in installing the ordinary plastic cover (bottom right of the picture) to cover a GFCI outlet outdoors? It is vertical and is under a 3ft shed, so it will somewhat be protected from rain. <Q> Why play with electricity like that? <S> Install one of these: <S> For use while connected : <S> or, for occasional temporary use where it can be closed and unused during wet weather : <A> The main disadvantage is that your simple cover is not to code in most jurisdictions. <S> In addition, gfci outlets aren't really designed to get splashed, so don't be surprised if it fails prematurely. <S> (I know you said overhang, but rain can be carried by high winds.) <S> I'd spend the 10 bucks and get a nice in-use cover. <S> (The type that allows you to have something plugged in while also protecting from weather. <S> There are some that accordion down if you don't like the look of the big ones.) <A> In my experience, most listed covers do a lousy job actually preventing water ingress. <S> This is common; actual practice in electrical work is to use listed products which then proceed to leak anyway. <S> I see remote powerboards all the time with top entry and water getting into every single thing water is not supposed to get into, lots of breaker and GFCI trips, etc. <S> I consider "expecting actual watertightness from a listed product" to be a lost cause. <S> I myself use birdhouse-tier carpentry skills to build a little "phone box" style enclosure to genuinely keep the rain out. <S> And as a bonus, dinghy-tier boatbuilding skills to make it watertight: West System epoxy, good marine primer, don't spare the silicone, etc. <S> That's over top of the listed products; you still have to follow Code. <A> Must outdoor GFCI power outlets be covered? <S> YES <S> You get an Appropriate cover. <S> They are available and come in many styles depending on the Weatherproof Box you have installed the outlet in. <S> This thing is designed to save you from electrical shock. <S> WHY do you want to defeat its safety features? <S> You do not like the appearance of the cover? <A> An unmentioned part of the question is the fact that the OP is trying to combine components of two incompatible electrical systems: the newer Decora system, and the older system it replaces (I don't know the name...) <S> The Decors outlet in question does not lack a central screw hole because of the GFC buttons. <S> Such a central hole is not found on any Decors outlet. <S> It is simply not part of the system design. <S> The screws holding a Decors cover plate engage in the central holes in the tabs that connect the component to the electrical box. <S> There are Decora style weatherproof cover plates; here is one example: <S> Use one of these with your Decors style outlet <S> Of course, the concerns expressed by others about the effectiveness of this solution in resisting moisture still apply... <A> However, you might want to check the circuit breaker that feeds the line. <S> If the old outlet was just a regular socket, it is quite possible that the line is on a GFCI circuit breaker. <S> If that is the case, you can simply replace the old outlet with a new one of the same type, and re-use your old cover. <S> In this case, the GFCI protection will be implemented by the breaker instead of inside the outlet. <A> Yes,I belive it should be covered,better safe than sorry. <S> I would also recommend onw of the covers that keep it dry while in use.
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Yes, it should be covered.
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How to drill straight hole in 4x8 beam? I need to drill a 0.5" hole for a big bolt going through 4x8 beam (used in swing). Now I only have the hand drill and no drill press tool (which could be nice). I only need to make 2 holes and they must be straight from one end to the other. What are some tricks to drill a straight hole through 8" of wood? I am thinking about putting my drill sideway and slowly move in with a piece of lumber below to support while drilling. But then I don't really have a 8" long drill bit so I need to drill on both side. Even 1/4" off would be a big issue. Please let me know any suggestion. <Q> You could try clamping something rigid and relatively straight (like a T-square or 1x4) to the beam and then using that to ensure it's perpendicular. <S> Then measure your holes and drill with, say, your knuckles making contact on the rigid surface <S> If I were you, I'd just buy a longer bit tho. <S> Sounds like a waste, but when you need the right tool, you need the right tool. <S> And it makes life easier. <S> Your regular bit may not penetrate enough to connect the holes <S> (I've had that one happen). <A> If you are drilling a hole through 3 pieces, and you do not want to purchase a 12" "twist" (metal bit) bit to do the job, which would be the way to do it. <S> If you choose to use the shorter version, there is a way to do that too. <S> Main thing is, is to use a twist bit since it is full round so to speak and once it starts in a direction, it usually will not redirect or change <S> it's angle of drilling. <S> It will take a few steps to accomplish the job. <S> First drill the hole all the way in as far as it will possibly go, hopefully a good distance into the second piece. <S> If possible re-chuck <S> the drill bit into the drill so it is barely in the chuck to maximize the drill depth, after you do the initial fist bore to get that "last little bit of depth". <S> Remove the first piece you drilled through. <S> Using the hole that is started in the second piece, and re-chucking the drill bit in properly continue drilling using the hole that was started in the second piece as a guide. <S> If that does not get you all the way through, use the same method mentioned earlier to get the rest of the way through. <S> If the holes are needed to go through the 7 1/4" height of the beam, you would be wise to get the long drill bit. <S> If not take the chance and line the holes from either side the best you can, drill them in as deep as possible from each side and hammer the livin' crap outta them. <S> They might make through... <S> I have been that fortunate doing it that way too. <S> It does blow out the wood a little bit on one side. <S> That is the trade off, if it works.... <A> However, this does not sound like an application where perfect alignment is required. <S> I'd probably just use the Mk. <S> 1 Eyeball.
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There are a number of tricks, ranging from placing a mirror next to the hole so you can see more easily whether you are really drilling perpendicularly to the board's surface to using a small square to check this to using a small jig with a guide bushing to hold the nit at the right angle.
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Wiring for GFCI and 3 switches in bathroom I'm wrapping up a bathroom remodel. An electrician came a while back and ran new wiring. He installed a plastic 4-gang box which will have a GFCI receptacle and 3 switches for a light above the vanity, an overhead light, and an overhead fan. The wiring is already in place; I just need to install the actual GFCI and switches. There are three cables coming into the top of the box: two with a black, a white, and a bare, and one with a black, a white, a red, and a bare. When he installed the wiring and box, he roughly pushed each group of wires into place. I made the attached diagram based on where it looked like the wires were supposed to end up. Does this look correct? Also, will the three switches be single pole switches?Thanks. <Q> And yes, standard single pole switches work here. <S> Also -- depending on where the fixtures are located, you may wish to put one or more of them on the load side of the GFCI. <S> Make sure that the existing black and white wires on your diagram go to the LINE terminals on the GFCI outlet! <A> Here's a picture from a help page <S> You can ignore the GFCI on the left. <A> That looks correct. <S> Your ground(bare) and neutral(white) will all be nutted together. <S> Then the black and red wires (hot) will attach to the switches (all appear to be single pole since none are in a series) <S> The only thing I would suggest is making sure you ground the switches. <S> Sometimes code will demand it, but it's also a good idea since it's a wet location.
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You need to ground your switches -- Code requires it. While the advice in other answers appears correct, it is critical to connect the "line" and "load" wires correctly to the GFCI.
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How do I fix a counterweighted accordion blind that is stuck? We have accordion style blinds. These are assisted...meaning that we can raise and lower the blinds just by lifting or pulling down. No need to pull any strings directly. Now the assist mechanism is not working anymore. The mechanism is at the top of the blinds. A string enters the mechanism from the right and the left. I tried to pull on the string to see if I can get the mechanism to release/unwind the string but I had no luck. Any suggestion from people that know this mechanism? How can I fix it? <Q> This happened to one of our cordless blinds (made by Bali), they were stuck and would not raise or lower. <S> I'm not certain that all types are made the same, but in the Bali blinds at least you can remove the top cover and there are one or more spring tensioned cylinders (for lack of a better term), and the blind cord may be wrapped around one of them incorrectly. <S> It's not fun, but I had to unspool and respool all of the blind cords until all were wound correctly around their cylinders, which required a surprising amount of force. <S> I'm sure this makes little sense as typed, so here's a youtube video that helped. <S> Bali cordless blinds won't go up or down (not my content) <A> Would think that the assisted action is with a counter weight somewhere. <S> Perhaps that counter weight is stuck somewhere <S> and you need to free it. <S> Based on your description the weight of the blind is 'balanced' and will thus stop wherever you leave it. <S> This makes me think there ought to be a counter weight somewhere. <S> Much like elevators or lifts. <A> Perhaps helpful:It turns out that many of such blinds are covered by a 'lifetime' warranty. <S> If you're the original purchaser and/or can identify the vendor, you may be able to get an replacement. <S> That would take the form of a new blind, matching the old.
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Your blinds may be a little different if they're from a different manufacturer.
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insect eating holes in concrete My sister has an infestation of winged insects eating through the cinderblocks of her basement. Needless to say, this is terrifying. What are they and how do you control them? These insects bored about 20 holes though cinder block and about 5 holes through the mortar. the holes were about 3/16" in the center, and about 1/2 inch at the opening (creating a funnel shaped opening). Will post more pictures tomorrow. <Q> It only takes a small crack in an otherwise secure concrete foundation to let termites in. <S> Poured concrete is the most reliable, but if you have a block foundation, the mortar is likely to provide open spaces. <S> Expansion joints between home sections are another invitation to pests, as is any area where pipes or wires enter the house. <S> Once inside, termites build dirt tunnels. <S> These tunnels get wider over time, so even though the bugs aren’t eating your foundation, they can cause a great deal of damage as pressure builds up and widens existing cracks. <S> This slow process may go unnoticed until it becomes serious, making regular inspection of your home and foundation an important part of pest control. <S> Source Eradication is best left to a professional for something this serious. <A> but I can't be certain. <S> Boring holes in concrete does not seem to be one of the characteristics of this insect, aside from a few colloquial reports. <S> At any rate, sevin-liquid (aka carbaryl or 1-naphthyl methylcarbamate) works. <S> Also, borax should be applied for long term control, and the holes should be filled. <A> Boring holes through cinder blocks sounds like Formosa Termites. <S> They live in the Louisiana area which matches the climate of Southeast Asia. <S> After WW II, many items were shipped back from Southeast Asia to the US in crates made from local wood. <S> Some of that wood was infested. <S> Back in the US the crates ended up in the landfill and the termites thrived in the climate. <S> Formosa termites are a serious problem and can render a house unlivable in as little as 2 years.
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Insects are incapable of "eating" concrete, but they do tend to exploit weak or damaged concrete to access something more appealing, such as a food source or nesting site. I believe that they are pavement ants ( Tetramorium caespitum )... Using a syringe to fill the holes that they bored seems to have worked.
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Triple 2x4 beam post bowing away from foundation wall We have a fairly new home (2007). I noticed a strange issue that has to be fixed. The pictures below show 3 stacked 2x4's holding up a laminated beam; the 2x4's are bowing out. This is the only stack that is bowing out because the nail holding it to the concrete has come out. I need some advice on how to proceed before trying my idea. My thoughts are to get a 1/2" concrete anchor to attach it to the wall. But do I need to jack up the beam? Edit: I measured 105.5" on both ends of the beam to the floor. <Q> That's possibly just humidity warpage and not due to load stress. <S> That nail wasn't intended as a structural component. <S> It probably just held the post up until there was something on it. <S> At any rate, no, you don't need to jack up the beam. <S> That amount of bend results in approximately 0.0" of settling in the beam. <S> I'd watch it and see if it moves any more. <S> If you're worried, run some concrete anchors in. <S> The problem is that you can't drill for typical expansion anchors since the lumber is in the way. <S> You'll need to use something with concrete-ready threads. <S> Another option would be a steel U-strap bolted directly to the concrete. <A> It is a little hard to tell from the pics, but I think I see that the 4X6 made of 2X4's has bowed slightly <S> and I see what appears to be a single nail a little over halfway up pulled out of the concrete. <S> This may have been caused by the wood drying and warping a bit and pulling out the only nail. <S> Be sure all three 2X4's are secured together by long screws, timber ties or the like. <S> Assuming you can push the stack back against the wall using brute force, or some kind of mechanical leverage, you can resecure the stack to the wall by using a few TapCons put in at about a 35 degree angle or carefully dig or drill out a bit of the center 2X4 so that you can fit the muzzle of a Ramset in about an inch and shoot a few long nails with a #4, brown charge every 18 to 24 inches on both sides. <S> You may have to fabricate a bracket, but that would not be that difficult. <A> If it were my home <S> I would definitely use a 1/2" anchor in the center of the post. <S> I would also use a tie plate to fasten the beam to the top of the post. <S> Or pair of them. <S> For ten dollars, don't fret over it and get it done. <S> It may be drying... <S> but then when boards dry they get shorter and reduce the load so the post should have a tendency to loosen up, not get more pressure on it if the warpage is due to drying. <S> Also, there is an air space between a couple of the 2x4 indicating they are not properly laminated together. <S> The anchor will help that. <S> And on that note, again, laminating three boards together tends to minimize warpage as the stresses in each board is different and can have a tendency to counteract and negate warpage in the other boards. <S> Sooooo, the warpage is likely from settling. <S> Also, again, stuff tends to settle more, not less, as time goes on, so any defect you are seeing now will only get worse, never better. <S> I would not wait until it starts to show signs of damaging finished work in other areas of the house.
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I do not believe it is load related. Of course you could use a bracket around the stack and use tapcons or ramset to hold the stack against the wall. There is no need to jack it up, since when you tighten the nut and washer on the anchor it will have a lot of leverage to lift it if it is needed.
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How can I reduce the force required to operate double-hung windows? I'm looking to create or even just buy a product that can be mounted onto any single- or double-hung window where the user doesn't need a lot of force to open/close a window. This is for an elderly home where the windows are hard to open for the older folks. They don't have much strength to push up or down the windows. I was thinking of creating a hand crank linked to some gear teeth along the window to make it easier for them to open it. An electronic system would work too, but that would require running a power line or changing batteries. Have there been any solutions for such a requirement? I'm sure it has come up for the handicapped and elderly. <Q> The wooden framed double hung sash design dates from a time when no elderly person was ever left alone long enough to open or close a window. <S> Today the demographic age curve is quite different and there are not enough window operators to go around. <S> I expect sash window easy-open aftermarket add-on devices to appear on the market any day now, as soon as us boomers form a significant market. <S> Meanwhile, I have two recalcitrant windows in my kitchen which are not only stiff but awkwardly placed above counters. <S> Here is what I installed to operate them. <S> For each window, I used four pulleys (about 1.25"), two anchors (I used screw eyes), and a long cord. <S> I attached one pulley and one anchor to the window frame top, one pulley to the inner sash top, one pulley to the inner sash bottom, and one pulley and one anchor to the window frame bottom. <S> Pulling down on the blue section, or up on the green section, lowers the window. <S> The force advantage is 2 to 1. <S> The pulleys are actually on the center line; they are offset in the diagram to show the rigging. <S> Pulleys 3 and 5 are turned, and pulley 4 is shimmed out, to bring the blue and green cords out away from the sash frame. <S> The red cords are almost touching the frames. <S> (The cords are red, blue, and green only in the diagram. <S> My actual cords are ecru.) <S> My wife and kids ridiculed this lashup when they first saw it, so I invited them to take up a collection and shop for other solutions. <S> No takers so far. <A> The problem isn't sash windows. <S> The problem is poorly maintained sash windows, by landlords who don't care <S> and/or don't have adequate maintenance budgets due to rent control. <S> The most common problem moving them up and down is tram. <S> The track becomes uneven from a combination of wear in some places, and paint buildup in other places along the track. <S> As you push on them, the slop allows them to yaw (cock) <S> slightly in the track, the corners dig in, bind, and you push harder, which exacerbates wear. <S> The fix is to be mindful when operating the window, let off at the first sign of binding, and adjust how you lift so it goes up evenly. <S> This is not correctible, short of changing counterweights or an additional pulley system of some kind. <S> And a broken/wrong counterweight on one side will make the tram problem extremely severe. <S> Another problem you see is missing felts or seals, which (along with single-pane glass) is what makes the windows so drafty. <S> Any skilled woodworker can fabricate them, with alterations to accommodate double-pane if you want that. <S> Weights, pulleys, ties, hardware are readily available. <S> You bet the sash windows at the White House or the Vanderbilt mansion were maintained correctly! <A>
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I rigged the long cord according to this schematic diagram: Pulling down on the green section of the cord raises the window. If someone really wanted to maintain sash windows correctly, they could do so. Another problem is broken counterweight cords or wrong counterweights, possibly from the counterweight corroding away or different wood or glass used without correcting counterweights. Of course, removing old layers of paint, repairing/replacing the sash springs/balances/weights, and a general tune up along with the stick lube greatly reduces opening and closing effort. Families were large and any oldster who wanted a window operated would simply whack the nearest youngster with a cane and croak out the appropriate orders. You cannot use small pulleys for this project because moving the window involves turning all four of them. They are an open-source design in which all parts are replaceable, and any competent carpenter can maintain them if they are paying attention. I have had good luck using this stuff, all over the parting beads and sides of frame and sash:
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Which tools to use for changing locks? I am new Home owner. I want to change locks and do it myself. I have never used a screwdriver set before and do not own one. If anyone can recommend what tools I will need to change the locks. Thank you. <Q> Congratulations on becoming a home owner. <S> You will soon learn to use lots of tools if you plan to do any DIY projects around the house. <S> Most locksets only require a #2 Phillips screwdriver. <S> You should not need any special or expensive tools. <S> Just read the directions and follow them. <S> Changing locks is very simple, usually just two screws that hold the inner and outer knobs together and two screws that hold the striker cylinder to the side of the door. <S> You may also have to replace the striker plates on the door frame, but that is also easy and has only two screws. <S> All the screws should use the same phillips screwdriver. <S> Good luck. <A> If you are concerned about security (e.g., the previous owner gave a key to a friend) you can rekey the lock rather than change it. <S> Take the cylinder out of the door and go to a locksmith to have it rekeyed. <S> This should be cheaper and easier than buying a new lock. <A> The secret to buying locks <S> Every lock-set in a retail package has code numbers like "14165". <S> This indicates the key pattern it uses. <S> Generally they are packaged in boxes of 4-8 units, and every lock-set will have the same key code . <S> This is good and bad. <S> Good news <S> You even get a bunch of spare keys. <S> Bad news: huge security hole . <S> Random people in your town will have the same key as you . <S> Worse, someone could maliciously get your key by buying every key # of the same lockset at the same store. <S> This is especially a problem in small towns, and the cure is to buy the lock-sets 3 towns over. <S> Screws 101 <S> Changing lock-sets is a straightforward job if everything fits. <S> If not, you may have some part swapping or light woodwork to do. <S> Keep the old stuff in case you have to temporarily rollback to get more parts... and take pictures as you go, to refer back to. <S> Most Philips screws are #2 (the larger of the two heads). <S> A #1 driver will fit in a #2 screw, but will strip out the head when you apply real force. <S> A #2 driver will not fit very well into a #1 hole. <S> It's not you; Philips screws strip too easily, it's a design flaw. <S> Righty tighty (clockwise). <S> Lefty loosy. <S> That's everywhere <S> humans make screws, except for rare, special situations where left-hand thread is absolutely needed, like turnbuckles. <S> Try to use the same screws in the same holes, assuming they otherwise fit. <S> When putting a screw back into a hole where a screw has been, turn it <S> "lefty-loosey" a couple turns and gently feel for a little bounce, before going "righty-tighty". <S> That way you go back into the old groove, rather than cut a new groove and risk stripping it out. <S> Turn all screws by hand, and pay close attention to "feel". <S> Don't gorilla-tight them unless you want to strip the threads out of the holes. <S> If the hole gets stripped out, stick a wooden matchstick in there and have another go. <S> If that doesn't work, come back here for advice.
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: If you want your doors keyed alike, find a package that includes every type of lock you'll need, and buy as many packages as you'll need with the same code .
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Best Concrete for Pet Headstone I spend a lot of times on other areas of stackexchange, but this looked to be the best place to ask the following question. Feel free to let me know if it isn't. I'm going to layout exactly what I'm trying to do, though I'll be asking my questions in multiple parts. I just wanted you guys to have all the pertinent information when considering your answer. I'm trying to make a pet gravesite marker out of concrete. Here is what it will roughly look like. It'll be about 2' long. It's going to be located in the mountains. Elevation is 4070', record low temps were -24deg, avg lowest yearly temp is 18deg. Lots of rain and tons of snow. Average highs are in the low 90's. I'm going to need to make it to last. I work at a metal shop, so I plan to cut metal inserts, such as: a silhouette, name, birth/death date, and maybe a decorative border. I plan to stain it black so that it matches the horse's show colors of black and silver. I also wouldn't mind some light flakes of some kind to make the black pop a little. I haven't worked that out yet. I'll build a form with the face open and level. I'll pour in the concrete and then set the inserts into the face while it cures. I'll use a hand sander and stick to vibrate the form and remove air bubbles and inclusions. I'll sand the face and metal inserts flush to accommodate any shrinking that occurred and make sure the face is perfectly flush. I'll buff the metal till it's bright and scratch free. After curing, I'll see if the inserts are easily removable. If they are, I'll remove them before staining. Lastly, I'll seal it against tarnish and the elements. I should end up with a headstone shaped approximately like the one pictured and it'll be black (possibly with small metallic flakes) with silver looking inserts. My first question on the project is what combination of concrete, stain, and sealant will handle the weather conditions I mentioned above. I had planned to use Portland cement from home depot. I heard it was extremely hard and durable. I found another page where they were making headstones for the graves of American pioneers and they said to use morter mix. I'm not well versed in concrete and don't know if the two are mutually exclusive. I do know that Portland cement doesn't set up to a light color and I don't think the black stain will look good if I'm not applying it to a lighter color. Again, I'll also have to seal it against all that nasty weather. So what do you guys recommend I use for this project. I figured I'd use Portland cement and add some colorant to get it to a lighter color to stain and polish it black. Then seal it with something durable. I know there are additives to concrete to make it more elastic or something, but I really don't know what they are or what they do. Thanks for helping me out here. Let me know if I need to clarify anything. <Q> You're a metal worker? <S> How about stainless ? <S> This DiY Headstone suggests high strength mortar mix . <S> You should use colorant to achieve your final color instead of attempting to stain it afterwards, which would only be skin deep. <S> However, this is why you use granite: <S> I'd suggest Uba Tuba for its flakes: <S> Truly though, what I'd recommend, is having a real stone cut for you. <S> They're not as expensive as I would've thought. <S> Even a somewhat fancy one should be under a grand . <S> But it doesn't really matter what we think... <S> what does <S> The Boss want? <S> This : <S> Or this : Food for thought, regarding the fact that you're a metalsmith, if your only tool is a hammer... <S> If it needs to last, then it needs to be made out of granite. <A> Concrete pigments are available. <S> But for what I think you are wanting, you would start by grinding/sanding the block smooth, then painting it (black) with an epoxy base coat, then sprinkling it with decorative metallic/colored flakes (the loose fines are cleaned off), and then a clear epoxy top coat is layed over it. <S> Here's a youtube video for this procedure (on a garage floor): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YjEI1P9vtGg . <S> Extra steps to ensure a longer life for the concrete? <S> And I would definitely opt for the UV resistant epoxy. <S> I might also consider using a silane or siloxane (impregnating) based grout sealer for pre-sealing the concrete (which might not be worth the cost- <S> I'm not sure; since you are covering it with epoxy anyway). <S> But to estimate, lets say a quart costs $20, and it will basically cover 100 square ft, (or 10 headstones)... <S> I might be tempted to do it because it might help if the concrete starts to crack or chip after a while. <S> Good (silane or siloxane) grout sealers tend to hold up for 1 to 3 decades, so for the price, I might do it... <S> but honestly, I don't know if it would help. <A> I have found that using an inexpensive plastic container as a mold works quite well. <S> Use painter's tape where writing and numbers will be and glue them to the tape, then trim the tape with razor knife close to the writing. <S> (remember writing mus be backwards!) <S> I prefer the fiberglass type concrete to the quickrete (rock and sand) type used for the two you see here. <S> Use the quality concrete colorant and mix it very well before adding to the concrete. <S> Take your time working all the air bubbles out without disturbing the foam letters and numbers. <S> Set mold at proper angle and let dry for 20-30 days.
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I would probably use either waterproof additive or waterproof concrete (with premixed additive).
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How to frame a floor in an unfinished crawl space? I've got a "crawl space" (really an unfinished space) under the main floor in a 2-story-with-basement house. I'd like to build essentially a deck frame and cover it in 3/4" plywood so that we can more easily use it as a storage area. Picture of the space: I've been planning on attaching a band joist to the concrete foundation on the right side, and additional band joists attached to the support posts on the other side (left side of the picture). I'd then run floor joists between them (approx. 7.5' in length) supported by joist hangers. Is attaching to the support posts a bad idea? Not being a structural engineer, I worry about the additional load, and the potential for weakening those posts by attaching the band joists with lag bolts. Should I be worried, or is there a better way to support that side of the floor that doesn't involve digging down and pouring concrete footings? <Q> Looks like you have concrete pillars with 2x's coming out of them. <S> Perhaps you can frame a deck floor space, fastening treated lumber to them and maybe anchoring a joist to the concrete wall. <S> Use 2x6, 2x8 should work. <S> Good luck <A> Because the new floor doesn't necessarily need to attache to the structure, and because I'd have some of the same concerns regarding additional load on the posts, I'd probably do a free-floating floor system on concrete post bases . <S> Treat the situation just as you would an exterior deck. <S> Frame the floor with treated 2x8 or 2x10 lumber, depending on spans. <A> Thought I'd follow up with how I ended up solving this problem. <S> I really wanted to avoid digging new holes and adding new support columns. <S> That just seemed like too much work. <S> What I ended up doing was resting new 4x4 supports on the existing concrete footings, and strapping them to the existing supports. <S> This way the load is directly on the concrete footings, but the straps provide what little horizontal support is needed. <S> I also strapped the band joists to the posts, though that was probably overkill (though it did keep them in place while framing everything out). <S> I attached the opposite band joists directly to the concrete foundation, and used joist hangers to support the joists. <S> The floor is now built and is very solid. <S> And the added storage space allowed us to get rid of three storage lockers!
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If you anchored to the center posts at concrete pillar, there would be no support problems. I'd space them as appropriate for a rim joist around the outside of the space, and for a doubled flush beam in the center. I'd bring in a bit of washed rock to provide support for and allow leveling of the post bases.
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Can I add another conductor to a 30-amp dryer circuit breaker? I have a 30 amp breaker that runs my dryer I want to know am I able to run another wire to that breaker to run a window unit <Q> No. <A> You cannot add a second or more wires to any breaker. <S> That is called double tapping. <S> In your case specifically, besides the reason I just explained, it can be dangerous to attach a single leg 120vac circuit to one terminal of a double pole 30 amp breaker. <S> It creates an unbalanced load and will not trip properly if overloaded on just one pole. <S> Remember, the two poles are mechanically tied together and trip as a pair. <A> Generally, every breaker on your panel must feed one, and only one, receptacle. <S> How do common household outlets do it? <S> There's an exception for 15 and 20 amp circuits. <S> By nature any 240V load requires 2 spaces. <S> But you can get "quad" breakers like this which stack <S> two 240V circuits into two spaces in your panel. <S> You can also get this same type without the outer handle-ties, and use the inner breaker for a 240V circuit and the outers for two 120V circuits.
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Two hot wires from devices not exceeding the loading % for single pole breaker can be connected together via a wirenut, for example, then a single wire connected to the breaker. This exception does not specify voltage, so feel free to hang several NEMA 6-20 outlets off a single 240V 20A circuit. The 30A breaker is there because dryers draw that amount of current, so adding additional loads to the circuit may cause the breaker to trip.
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Window unit AC get outlet and plug hot How come when I use an extension cord to run my ac the outlet and the plug of the extension cord gets hot it's on a 15 AMP breaker and the AC states it is pull 12 Amps and there is nothing else running on that breaker <Q> Most AC units say specifically NOT to use extension cords. <S> An appliance rated at 12amps probably has a 14 or 12 gauge cord. <S> If your extension is a smaller gauge, it may be too small for the current and heating up like an old fashion fuse. <A> Large appliances like that need extremely burly extension cords which, not surprisingly, cost a lot more money than normal extension cords. <S> Their ends are "fragile" in the sense that it's easy for them to take damage which results in them heating up, at which point the cord needs to be replaced. <S> But even these cords are not intended (nor legal) for permanent all-summer usage. <S> Because so many consumers mess this up, the air conditioner manufacturers' lawyers say "Do not use extension cords at all." <S> This means <S> it's all on you to select and watchdog an extension cord which does not have the above problems or any other. <S> In my experience, extension cord sockets are more troublesome than plugs . <S> When a socket gives out, I'll lop it off and feed the cord (with listed strain relief) into a steel 4" junction box holding the $4 duplex outlets. <S> Mount that on a piece of lumber milled to hold the box and protect the cord exit. <A> I think you are saying that the heat is being generated at the wall outlet where the male end of the extension cord is plugged in. <S> If this is so, the heat is generated by high resistance at some of the metal-to-metal contacts inside the outlet device, which is caused by the contact areas being too small. <S> Problematic metal-to-metal contacts would be at the backstab connectors (if the device is that style) and where the plug prongs meet the slip connectors. <S> Also possible but much less likely are a nicked or nearly broken wire, or an improperly tightened screw connection. <S> You should replace the outlet device with the most robust one you can afford. <S> Higher quality outlets have more than just thicker metal parts, there are design differences too; e.g. a cheap outlet may contact each plug prong only on one side, while a better device will grab the prong on both sides. <S> Pay special attention to all the connections when replacing the outlet. <S> Examine all the wires for cuts, corrosion, or other damage. <S> Don't go wild and install a 20A outlet, though. <S> Of course also make sure (as others here have said) you are using a proper rated extension cord. <A> Heavy Duty Indoor 9' Extension Cord (14 gauge) ( source ) <A> My experiance is in the UK <S> but I doubt this differs much. <S> First off how hot is hot? <S> a bit warm is generally ok, too hot to touch is generally a bad sign. <S> Evidence of charring/burning is definately bad. <S> What tends to happen is you get a poor contact, maybe due to corrosion from age, maybe due to weak springs, maybe due to crap design in the first place. <S> The contacts get very hot which causes further corrosion and can weaken the springs leading to worse contact and more heat. <S> If a plug/socket pair is overheating I would adise replacing both the plug and the socket. <S> Replace them with good quality parts. <S> You should also ensure that the cable is thick enough to avoid undue voltage drop. <S> While resistive loads will draw less current at lower voltages motor-driven and electronic loads can draw more. <S> Personally for high current loads I would make my own extension leads. <S> That way I can get the exact length I need and can chose an appripriate cable size.
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The reason for overheating is voltage drop caused by the possible smaller gauge of wire and length of the extension cord. If it has backstabs, don't use them - use the screw connectors. That has got to be some kind of illegal.
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How do I remove glow in the dark paint from my walls? A friend of mine painted on the walls of the apartment we are staying in with glow in the dark pain, and we have to get them off of the walls because we will get fined for it. We did not realize this until just recently, and so we don't have the time or money to repaint all the walls that she painted on. She said that she might have done it way back in August of last year. Does anyone have any ideas of how to get the paint off without severely damaging the walls? And again, we do not have the time or cash to repaint all the walls. <Q> You can try with soapy water. <S> But - having removed a lot of paint, what you're hoping for is probably impossible. <S> Even if you get the glow-in-the-dark stuff off, doing so will roughen up the underlying paint to the point that repainting is necessary. <S> You are stuck repainting, the question is whether you'd rather DIY or pay the landlord to do it. <S> First, I'd confer with the landlord about his plans and see if you can come up with a compromise. <S> Landlords don't make their money chiseling tenants out of their deposits. <S> * <S> * <S> They make their money having the unit rented continuously, and uneventfully, with the least downtime and maintenance expense. <S> So see what can be worked out. <S> You'd definitely want a coat of quality primer like Kilz to keep the GitD paint from printing through the new topcoat. <S> Scuff-sand the whole wall (just a few swishes with a Scotchbrite pad to knock the gloss off, especially over the GitD paint, paint does not stick to gloss); wipedown with TSP substitute to remove chemical contaminants (body oils etc.); then roll and brush on the primer. <S> It's not a huge job, the biggest part of it is protecting your possessions and the carpet and window trim. <S> If the carpet is scheduled for replacement, it's good to know that. <S> * <S> * <S> In fact they usually lose money seizing a tenant's deposit. <S> Their cost of doing the work is far beyond the deposit, and beyond any amount they could ever hope to collect from a typical tenant, even if they went to court. <S> So they just say "heck with it" and move on. <A> I am not a lawyer. <S> Pro-tip for renters and landlords: unless the security deposit is keep, by it self, in a separate escrow account , you WILL be getting/giving the deposit back IN FULL. <S> What if a landlord does not properly hold a security deposit? <S> If a landlord does not hold a tenant’s security deposit in the proper type of account or fails to give the tenant the required notice of where the funds are deposited, the landlord forfeits (loses) the right to keep the security deposit. <S> The landlord, at the request of the tenant, must immediately return the security deposit to him or her. <S> – mass.gov <S> (that's not my jurisdiction, but my town has a similar ordinance, and I expect yours does as well) <S> Just be cool and let them come in before you move out so they can paint over this "reasonable wear and tear" in time for the new tenants. <S> (it's call a "move-in fee" these days people, get with the program <S> y'all ;) <S> Now, if it was keep in an escrow account, well then good luck. <S> Expect the cost to be deducted from it, if you do not rectify the situation. <S> Which, IMO, there is but one way: paint . <S> ( assuming that your lease does not explicitly forbid painting your walls... <S> even then so, <S> but then we'd be getting into lawyer territory) <S> E.g. : <S> You: Was my SD kept in an escrow account? <S> Landlord: <S> Eh... no? <S> You: <S> (Then I expect it returned to me immediately, however) <S> I'm willing to work with you. <S> Please let me know when you're sending some guys over to do some painting. <S> I well move my furniture to the middle of the rooms, or you can move it at your discretion. <S> Thank you. <S> I've been on the other end of this stick before. <S> IMO, just GTFO so I can paint. <S> Just clean up and let me in to paint (in plenty of time for the new guy) <S> and I'd have no problem. <S> Well, I'd be kinda pissed but there's no way I'd be messing with withholding a SD. <S> That's for when you trash the place. <A> Chances are I'm repainting anyway after a tenant leaves. <S> Suck it up, talk to the landlord. <S> You've got an excellent chance it will all be OK. <S> Some wall damage is 100% normal wear and tear for a unit.
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A bad paint job can be a big problem: if the wall is improperly cleaned and prepared, all future coats of paint are at risk. As a landlord: I'd far rather the tenant came to me for a solution, rather than did some crappy DIY hack job painting.
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How can I prevent a wooden door from expanding and binding when it rains? When we have heavy driving rains it causes the front door to expand and we're unable to close or lock the door until it has dried out and contracted. There is no veranda so the rain hits straight onto the front door. How can I prevent this? <Q> I am going to guess that you have a wood door causing the problem. <S> If you have checked the original installation and frame alignment and feel that cannot be changed, then the only real solution is to plane it down so it closes properly when damp or humid. <S> You can install extra or new weatherstripping to assure it has a good airtight seal,especially in dryer times when it may shrink a bit. <A> I would install an awning or porch roof extension out 3 feet from the building wall line to protect the door. <S> They even make fabric type awnings that can roll up against the wall during nice weather times. <A> You might consider replacing the wooden door with a fiberglass one. <S> Metal would avoid the swelling issue, but likely suffer from rust/oxidation due to the wet environment. <A> Cover the entry with a roof, awning, etc. <S> Wait until the door is dry and seal it with many layers of Tung oil, shellac, Varathane, or even a high quality paint <S> (epoxy? or oil based paint)
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If the door opens inward, add an exterior water resistant door like a conventional screen door but which has windows in areas where the water strikes.
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Is there a significant risk of CO2 buildup with a ductless heat pump A/C? It just occurred to me that if I install a ductless heat pump to cool the air in my house's bedrooms in the summer, the unit will be cooling and dehumidifying the air - but not introducing any new oxygen. The window will also be closed. If I spend a few hours in one of the rooms, is there a significant chance of CO2 buildup which could cause malaise and tiredness? The bedrooms are relatively small, about 3 metres by 2 metres each. <Q> Your house is not a space-ship, and it's not built like a space-ship. <S> If it's built anywhere close to a spaceship, you can run continuous ventilation fans, typically though an air-air heat exchanger. <S> If it's of "normal construction" normal leakage will take care of adequate air exchange. <S> If you are adequately curious you can have a "blower door test" done to determine the actual leakage rate of your house under controlled conditions, which might inform both sealing particular leakage areas and the decision of whether or not to install active ventilation. <A> Yes, CO2 can build up. <S> I have a ductless mini-split system and recently replaced the door seals in my home. <S> Working at home during this pandemic, there are three adults here in our 1700 square foot home almost 24/7. <S> We have experienced a bit of drowsiness lately <S> so I bought a CO2 monitor to check our air quality. <S> CO2 level in our home was 1600 PPM! <S> It’s hot here in the Arizona heat <S> so opening windows to cool the outside air is going to get expensive; I’ll be airing out the house in early morning until I can install a heat-exchange ventilator. <A> There are two separate issues with any HVAC system and carbon dioxide (CO2): Fuel Combustion <S> This is a concern with a system that burns oil, gas, coal, wood or anything else. <S> This does not apply to any electric system , including a typical HVAC system when cooling and a heat pump whether heating or cooling . <S> Humans Humans inhale air including oxygen and exhale air including CO2. <S> In a spaceship, this is a real concern because it must be sealed really well to prevent loss of air pressure, so CO2 will build up over time unless removed from the air through some mechanism. <S> It could be a problem in a well-sealed room, but even a room without windows will generally have some fresh air coming in from around the door, holes in the wall around receptacles, etc. <A> I found: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26452168 <S> This indicates that while the gaps around a bedroom door provide enough ventilation to prevent a dangerous situation from occurring, they do not provide enough ventilation to equalize the CO2 level between the bedroom and the rest of the house when sleeping, and the difference is large enough to cause perceptible differences in next-day performance. <S> Note that you don't need to ventilate between the bedroom and outdoors, but can ventilate between the bedroom and the rest of the house <S> ; there's enough leakage in a normal house that CO2 buildup is not a concern, just not within the confines of a bedroom. <S> Leaving the bedroom door open a crack should be enough to equalize CO2 levels while inside.
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However, a house on Earth is generally not sealed to an extent that normal usage, without additional CO2 from fuel combustion (furnace, gas cooking appliances, fireplaces, etc.), will not usually be a problem. Our CO2 level of 1600 ppm is not dangerous, but it’s high enough to be detrimental to mental acuity and possibly cause irritation and far exceeds the ASHRAE standard of 1000 ppm. There are specific requirements for ductwork in order to make sure it is not a problem. Opening a window about three inches with a bathroom ventilation fan running on the opposite end of the house got the level down to around 1000 ppm in about three hours.
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Blue LED always on with led light strip The blue leds on my led light strip started acting weird just recently. For some reason, the blue leds are always on. When changing colors, the blue led is on, when powering off the strip with the remote, the blue leds stay on. There's no way to turn them off. Here's how it's connected, I'm not much of an expert when it comes to things like this. I've heard that there was a solution where you could press the Fade 7 button on the ir remote when the strip is turned off. You're supposed to get a flash of white. But I never received any results from doing that. Is this a hardware problem or is this a problem with the programming of the strip's controller. <Q> You will need a ohmmeter. <S> Disconnect the IR Controller (the white box with white wires). <S> If you check the the voltage drop (in the connector of the white wire) between the Positive (+) and the different wires. <S> Again, if the "blue port" always reads 12VDC (despite trying to turn it off), then the problem is with either the remote or the receiver (and not the strip). <S> However if it does turn on and off upon command, then there must be a short in the strip or connectors (powering the blue wires). <S> If you look carefully along the strip you might be able to see where the short is (often looks like a burned/discolored spot (or a discolored LED). <S> If you bought the non-waterproof strip, then you might find some debris or dried soda or something on the strip. <S> Or if you have the waterproof strip, you might see a crack in it where humidity has collected and is causing a short between + and B. <S> If everything seems to be looking okay, then you could get some short pieces of wire (strip the insulation off of both ends) and insert them into the connector- making sure to only connect one wire to each port- and perhaps diagnose which wire is connected to the Blue lights by connecting one wire at a time... <S> then two wires at a time... and (if necessary) <S> three wire combos. <S> Unfortunately, this may not be a fruitful piece of information, because it seems that the problem is with the strip or one of the LEDs anyway, and if you don't see any obvious faults <S> then there's not much you can do figure out where the issue is on the strip. <S> So of course, if you have no idea where the fault lies (just on the strip somewhere) <S> you'll have to cut out the bad section by cutting the strip in half. <S> One half of the strip should be okay... <S> then you cut the bad half in half... and just walk-it-down until you're satisfied. <S> Then you can reconnect some of the lengths worth keeping. <A> I have the exact same problem. <S> I thought it was just when powered off that the blue remained <S> but it is indeed always on, even when I select the red or green color. <S> According to measurements I made with my voltmeter, the blue channel always has a tiny voltage (around 8 volts if my memory is good) <S> ven when turned off via the remote. <S> I found the programming tips (with the Fade 7 button on the 44-key remote) but nothing fixes this issue. <S> I am still looking around for a solution but I am thinking more and more to buy a new controller & remote kit. <A> I detect a technical hobbyist like myself. <S> People like us rarely use UL-listed equipment from Tier 1 vendors on the low voltage side of the wall-wart; it's usually Alibaba-tier "junque" acquired off eBay or Amazon Marketplace for very little money. <S> Those items have a wretchedly high failure rate, and cost very little to begin with, so I would quickly categorize such a failure as a dead controller, and swap it without a second thought. <S> I'm not going to get all up-in-arms about the hazards of such junque, like I usually do, because you're on the low-voltage side of the wall-wart.
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If you find that they all respond to commands from the remote... except for the port for the blue wire (which controls the blue light), then the problem might be with the remote or the receiver.
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Causes of Corroded or Burned Wires Beginning Disclaimer - I am not a Serious DIYer. (I'm more of a Seriously Try to Avoid Paying Someone Else to Do Iter). So anyways, I've been having trouble with lights flickering or not working in a room. I checked the voltage, and found that 3 out of the 4 outlets had quite low voltage (around 40 instead of the rest of the house outlets at 120). After some investigation, I took out several outlets and found that the first problematic one appeared to have a wire that was corroded or burned. Didn't look really bad, but didn't look right. I detached the outlet, cleaned up the wire with some steel wool, and installed a new outlet in there. Surprisingly that worked. This outlet and the 2 others in the room now have normal voltage and work fine. So my question is - what would cause the wire to become corroded or burned like this? Is there anything I need to look out for? Thanks. <Q> Loose connections can produce heat and cause this problem. <S> The fix is to disconnect and reconnect properly. <S> Spring-loaded "stab connections" are particularly likely to suffer this problem; screw terminals (or shove-in terminals that are clamped by tightening a screw) are more reliable. <S> If in doubt, outlets are cheap and you might want to simply replace this one. <A> The wires are made of copper, which is normal. <S> It is a good conductor but it does corrode in time. <S> What may have happened: The copper wires were not screwed it very tight. <S> Over time, the copper corroded. <S> The point of contact between the wire and the connector got a bit insulated by corrosion. <S> The resistance increased .When <S> the socket was used, the current through this resistance caused heat which caused the burnmarks. <S> Solution: <S> Clean the wires. <S> Screw them in tight. <S> If applicable, replace the socket by a newer one. <A> The sheathing on one of the ground wires appears to be melted. <S> A faulty appliance plugged into the outlet could have overheated the outlet if the circuit breakers (or fuses) weren't working properly. <S> The corroded look on the wires could also have been caused by high temperatures.
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It is also possible that an older, cheaply designed socket simply doesn't clamp in the wires as well as modern ones.
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How do I get a lawnmower in and out of an old barn? I have a barn/large coup built in the 1890s in my back yard. It's foundation is just a 3 foot deep concrete pour around the perimeter. Later they filled half of it with concrete on half the floor. The problem I am having is that poured floor is about 10-12 inches below the perimeter lip. The perimeter lip however is just a couple inches higher than the grass around it. So I could get my riding lawnmower in the barn, but it will be a pain in the ass getting it out. What are some options that I have to deal with this? Update: To some questions - Ramp? Well yea but that section of barn is only like 10 feet deep and with a deep ramp will barely have enough room to park mower. I will get a pic. Laid up with foot injury. There are two small doors on opposite sides of the barn. They are about 30" wide. The concrete foundation is only flat with the inside floor for these two doors and then curves up. My riding lawnmower will need about 60" to get in. barn has never had a drop of water in it. I also haven't figured out the door. It will either be two swinging doors latched or a couple of doors sliding together. Security isn't a big concern. We live in a nice area and taking anything from this barn would mean moving it 200 yards and going past my house and a neighbor's. Really waiting on how I am getting the lawnmower out before I do this. I have thought about providing an outside addition or roof but would like to keep elements out of mower. <Q> I would lean towards constructing an elevated platform inside the doorway. <S> It would only need to be large enough to park and safely mount/dismount the mower. <S> You could construct it like a backyard deck, perhaps adding steps down into the main floor area. <S> This would be relatively easy to construct and inexpensive, especially compared to anything messing with the existing foundation. <S> There are car garages in existence with wood floors and framing <S> so I doubt the weight of a mower would be a concern. <A> The below grade floor in this structure begs the question as to if you have problems with water getting inside? <S> If you had a door how in the world were you getting into and out of the structure? <S> One guess is that there must be a two step stair or landing down into the floor area. <S> So the obvious solution, if the door is wide enough, is to replace these steps with a ramp inside the building. <S> An internal ramp could be a big space consumer. <S> Consider for example if the below grade distance to the floor is the 12 inches you mention that the ramp could eat up floor space out 6 or 7 feet into the structure. <S> It is a way to conserve the internal floor space but comes at the need of several additional considerations. <S> One of those being how the door would need to be adapted. <S> Another is that an apron ramp like this can become a water collector that will need to have drainage issues addressed. <A> Raise the floor - either wood frame or fill with concrete (or crushedrock, for that matter and the probable lowest cost solution.) <S> Wood frame could be just big enough for themower if you give it enough of a curb that you won't drive the moweroff it and the extra depth is useful otherwise. <S> Which DaveinCaz said, so <S> +1. <S> Cut this door down to the floor level; will require some landscaping outside (I seriously doubt itrequires a concrete apron - we are talking about a lawnmower thathappily drives on grass, you just need to lower the outside while maintaining a slope away from the building for drainage, so it may require shifting a fair volume of dirt, depending on the existing terrain.) <S> While it may be "a mess" (there will be concrete dust) <S> it preserves the most space in the barn. <S> You don't want a ramp that slopes downhill into the building. <A> Have a raised platform right at the door, which fits just the mower. <S> You're not going to do anything else with a mower-sized amount of space, and now you can store things under it. <S> One traditional type of barn door is a horizontal metal rail above the door and off to the side of it, and then the door slides on the rail.
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One thing to consider is the possibility to construct an apron ramp outside the structure and cut through the top part of the existing foundation wall to have the external ramp meet at the internal floor level.
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Vapors from washing machine stinking the garage and kitchen This shows that there is a trap in the washing machine drain How do I hook up a washing machine drain line to this box? . How do I clean this? Other traps under sinks have threaded connectors so I can extricate crap. And somehow my drain hose is stuck in the box as gentle tugging will not disconnect it; is there a clip inside that somehow grips it? Coz' suddenly after 10 years, our Maytag front load washer is eschewing vapors into the garage and even into the kitchen sink and it seems needs a clean-out. <Q> More likely your vent stack needs to be cleaned out. <A> Neighbors suggested Tide washing Machine Cleanser; after 2 cycles the sewer smell is gone; of course we now know why, where, and when we get gassed Nonanoic acid, sulfophenyl ester <S> http://www.pesticideinfo.org/Detail_Chemical.jsp?Rec_Id=PC36022 smells noxious, irritates the eyes but does the job making sewer gas sweeter. <A> Sequel <S> After a few days the stench returned. <S> Nothing focuses like a spousal rebuke; I vaguely recollected that smell from 50 years ago-- the root cellar potato bin in spring. <S> Aha! <S> An aggregation of veggies -- where is this "clean-out" on this 1987 house? <S> Outside the kitchen stucco wall is a 7 cm pipe plastered in, with a square nut cap about 30 cm off the ground. <S> A non-metric nut! <S> Dig out that 1 1\4 " flat wrench; apply some newtons; she won't budge! <S> A neighbor had died 5 years ago and the heirs gave me his pipe wrench--a use for it! <S> I filled the 2 basins to the brim; dissolved 100 g of nonanoic acid sulfophenyl ester in each , opened the drains and turned on the garberator, with a 4 l bucket under the clean-out; the surfactant foamed and frothed and spat a big doggy bag of $!$&&. <S> OK then do that agin! <S> Still a bit more . <S> Now we have sweet smelling sewers .
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If it isn't spraying water, it doesn't need a clean-out. Use joules on the pipe wrench and the nut loosens without busting any stucco.
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Is it OK to have an air conditioning vent above a kitchen cabinet? We're getting proposals to add central air conditioning to our house. We currently have no ductwork so adding ducts and vents is part of the project. One possible duct location is on the ceiling over these kitchen cabinets, roughly where the star is: This is a convenient location for a vent, because it's easy to reach from upstairs (the air handler will be in the attic). It seems like a good location for cooling the kitchen. There is a 6 1/4" gap between the top of the cabinet frame and the ceiling. Is this an OK place to put a vent? One contractor said that placing a vent close to the cabinets will ruin the cabinets, so we'd want to run it elsewhere. Another said that the cool dry air will just flow over the cabinet and would not damage it at all. I don't see how cool dry air would damage a cabinet; am I missing something? Are there other reasons this is a good or bad idea? <Q> Sorry I don't have enough points to comment yet so have to put this reply in the answer. <S> I had a vent coming out under the cabinets in the kitchen of my house for 20 years with NO PROBLEM (i.e. at the floor level where the kick-plate is). <S> This wasn't even ductwork under the cabinet, but rather the vent exhausted into the frame under the cabinets, which then vented out the kick-plate. <S> My system would push out gas fired hot air in winter, and integrated AC in summer. <S> He had a HRV. <S> No splitting in the cabinets, no peeling of the veneer, no warping of the frames. <S> I'd say go for it. <A> Nonsense... there's no way the output from the AC will damage a modern cabinet. <S> The carcass of the cabinet is undoubtedly plywood or MDF which is plenty dimensionally stable. <A> Absolutely rubbish nothing will happen to cabinet with AC's output unit. <S> Moreover this is the best place because it's close to ceiling so it will keep room cooler than lower height unit.
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If you're still worried, add louvers and point the exhaust away from the cabinets, but I wouldn't give it a second thought.
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What could one spray inside solid core door to protect wood and create a tunnel? What could one spray inside solid core door to protect wood and create a tunnel?Bought a pet door for a solid core door. Installed it, looks great, ezcept turns out the company doesn't make a tunnel for the door. Is there any thing or combination of things I could spray that would cure to a plastic feel with a white-ish color? If not, the door was cheap. I could always exchange it. Is plasti-dip an option? <Q> Just be sure to work it into the wood well. <S> Two thin coats are always better than one thick coat. <S> The cat door is gonna protect the cut edges quite a bit as well. <S> Put a small bead of silicone caulk on the inside of the cat door bezel before you install it on the outside surface to seal that possible entry point from rain water. <A> You could try iron-on white melamine banding, usually used to finish the edges of particle board for cabinets or furniture. <S> The banding usually comes in ¾" or ⅝" wide sizes, and it may be a challenge to find the banding in the width you need, <S> but I know I've seen it in a few places. <A> You bought a pet flap made for a thinner door. <S> Some indeed will also come with a tunnel piece which gets discarded when installing on a thinner door. <S> I would recommend returning the pet flap for one designed for the thicker door. <S> Hopefully the opening you cut is compatible with the replacement door. <A> I'd try white adhesive tape. <S> Duct tape or electrical tape. <S> If that flakes out after a few weeks or months, then try something stiffer like the Formica idea.
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There are pet flaps that come made for thicker doors that have an adjustment range that covers the thickness of door that you have. I think if you use a couple coats of good primer and a finish coat of enamel paint, you should be fine.
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Why is my bath exhaust fan noisy only when installed in the ceiling box? The house and fan are 45 years old. The fan in the guest bathroom sounded like a jet plane since we bought the house, but we finally decided enough was enough after some house guests complained. (Note: We really like these people. If you get unwelcome guests, do NOT fix your noisy fan!) Took the fan out, plugged it into an outlet in the shop. Quiet, and I couldn't imagine a new one being quieter. Oiled the shaft anyway. Put it back. Jet plane again. Why would the fan be so loud, but only when installed? <Q> To me it sounds like you removed the back draft damper that may have gotten stuck. <A> Ever wonder how an acoustic guitar can be so loud even though it has only thin vibrating strings? <S> It's the box. <S> Similarly, the housing and exit duct of a fan are the culprits with a fan. <S> The vibrations are in effect amplified by this apparatus. <S> Even if one installs material to dampen the transfer of vibrations to it, they still get transferred quite efficiently through the steel screws by which the fan is installed. <S> I don't know exactly what to do about this. <A> Obviously this fix won't apply in all cases, but it's something to check for. <S> With the fan out, I felt for the duct to see how big it was, and a piece of rubber came out, around the same size as the duct. <S> Possibly something cut out for the duct 45 years ago that was inside the whole time. <S> Anyway, with the rubber piece in the trashcan and the fan back, it is QUIET!
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Searched around for some answers, and noticed some advice about the exhaust duct being too small. Or, maybe it came off of some sort of fitting.
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Will I damage a cordless drill/screwdriver if I "over-torque" it? I own a Bosch GSR cordless screwdriver/drill. This drill automatically locks the spindle so that it can be used as a passive screwdriver, e.g. if the battery is empty (that's what the manual says). Sometimes I use it to screw climbing holds to a climbing wall (using M10 threaded screws). However, even the drill setting on the slow gear doesn't provide enough torque to fully fix larger holds, so I currently use an allen wrench for the final (half) turn. Can I use the cordless drill in "passive mode" for this final turn, or will I damage it? If so, would it be better to release the trigger and then turn the drill, or should I fully press the trigger while turning it? I could imagine that the latter would lead to overheating, but this is only for a few seconds. But I guess the first option would probably lead to torque that is larger than the drill is designed for. Additional info: On a climbing hold manufacturer's website, I read that the holds should be tightened with a torque between 35 and 45 Nm, while Bosch lists a maximum torque of 30 Nm for my drill. <Q> You can <S> but it would be easier and more efficient to bring a manual wrench. <S> A wrench or ratchet will let you apply your torque closer to the same plane as the head of the bolt. <S> Turning the drill will be like a ratchet with an extension on it. <S> Use the right tool for the job, your tools, your watch, and your wallet will thank you for it! <A> Yes, you can use the driver in "passive mode" for your final turns. <S> It is better to avoid holding the trigger during these turns, because while you're holding the trigger the driver's motor will be energized. <S> As the motor is no longer providing sufficient torque to turn the screw, this energy is being wasted. <S> At best it's wasting power, and at worst it's creating heat and wearing down your motor. <S> Also if you want a power tool that can provide higher torque for fastening screws, try an impact driver. <A> Having the tool locked is abslutely fine - it's not a 'maximum torque' issue <S> - well, at least until you get up to very high torque! <S> This doesn't mean you can add a lever arm to it - that would be a bad idea - but don't be afraid to crank on it when locked. <S> As mentioned by Shimon, don't use the trigger at the same time (you shouldn't do this anyway when the spindle is locked) <A> You're looking for a very specific use. <S> You're on a wall face, and you're trying to adjust some holds. <S> I get that it's important to be able to do this one-handed, with a light weight "screw gun", but it seems like you're using the wrong tool for the job. <S> I'm not going to tell you to get a wrench or impact drill though. <S> This is one of those cases where you should just get the specialized tool, or machine one yourself. <S> Something like this "wrench" will save you a mountain of time on that final turn, but isn't pleasant for the first 40 turns. <S> This handle will work wonderfully to swap between your drill and hand tightening. <S> If you have no other choice this may be a way to go. <S> But I would suggest looking at <S> This comparison and finding a driver that has more power but is still light weight enough to work with. <S> If all else fails, or you're just not fining a driver that is comfortable to use, then this ratcheting handle way <S> be the best option. <S> But using your drill in "lock mode" will typically wear it out pretty fast. <S> I have ruined 4 or 5 this way, simply because the plastic handle gives way. <S> It's good for a "quick fix" but long term use, specially in an environment where it will be really easy to put your weight onto the handle, is asking for problems.
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The spindle lock is going to be able to cope with more torque than you can manually apply.
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Turn one light bulb ON and another OFF at the same time with one switch I am trying to operate two AC current light bulbs with one switch so that while the switch is in the OFF position, bulb B1 is OFF and bulb B2 is ON, and while the switch is in the ON position, bulb B1 is ON and bulb B2 is OFF. Only one bulb needs to be turned ON at any given time and the other bulb is OFF. Let me know how can I make this possible. I would appreciate if you can provide any diagram. <Q> A single-pole, double-throw switch would do the job. <S> A common 3-way switch is exactly that. <S> You'd simply connect power to the common screw, and run power out from each of the traveler screws. <S> All the neutrals tie together. <S> Here's a nice animation showing the idea. <S> More on switch terminology <A> Wire it like this and the circuit will do what you say you want. <S> Of course with this, there is no way to ever switch everything off, so the circuit will consume power as long as the building stands. <S> We strongly advise you not to do this. <S> Instead, (again, as isherwood suggests) you should include a master switch to control power to the three-way switch. <S> Here I've placed both switches in the same junction box. <S> You may want a different layout. <S> Most people would look at this and say, if you're going to have two switches anyway, why not just wire each one to one light? <S> But if you have a reason to never allow both lights on at the same time, the second circuit is better. <S> This is probably the best advice you're going to get unless you want to explain more about your overall project goals. <S> EDIT <S> : See curious_cat's answer for a switch that allows you to use the first circuit. <S> This looks like the simplest and best solution. <A> How about something like this product ( <S> Thanks to A I Breveleri for pointing me in the right direction): http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ProductDetail.jsp?partnumber=5685-2E§ion=47084&minisite=10251 <S> 15 <S> Amp, 120/277 Volt, Decora Plus Rocker Double-Throw Ctr-OFF <S> Maintained Contact Single-Pole AC Quiet Switch, Commercial Spec Grade, Self Grounding, Back & Side Wired, - Black
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Use a single pole double throw switch, called three-way in the U.S. (as isherwood suggests).
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Protecting child from wall heater I moved into an apartment that has a wall-mounted heater that gets rather hot when turned on (see below). I have an inquisitive 1-year-old who already likes to climb up on the unit (luckily not while it's been on). I am wary about putting something directly surrounding the unit, both because it would block the heat and because it might be a fire-hazard. Does anyone have suggestions on how to properly protect the unit from my child (and vice-versa!) without creating further issues? I cannot remove the unit or do major construction, as this is a rented apartment. <Q> I'd place some sort of wall/fence around the outside. <S> You could use two or three segments of a gate system like this : Or for a more DIY solution, you could build a fence on a plywood base with rubber feet to hold it in place. <S> I would not recommend using heavy furniture to block access, as it will (1) block heat circulation and (2) in the event that your child does climb over it, he would be less able to escape. <A> They are available in various styles from simple plastic fences : <S> To more elaborate and attractive barriers : <A> Search or shop for tension pole room divider for a solution that a child is unlikely to be able to move or tip over. <S> All your screws or other fasteners go into the poles and nothing goes into the walls. <S> Four tension poles installed around heater. <S> Three pierced metal screens screwed into the tension poles. <S> Add trim pieces over the screws to improve the appearance. <S> This can stay in place until you, or your youngest, move out.
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You could surround it with a fence barrier that you attach to the wall, you can split it open and attach it to the walls on either side of the heater to provide a protective space (being sure to keep adequate clearance from the heater to the fence - one heater manufacturer recommends 3 feet in front and 12 inches to the sides of the heater): If you want to do it yourself then you can first install four tension poles in a small rectangle and then screw or clamp three sections of plastic or metal screen to make a box-shaped barrier.
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Is 1/2" plywood standard and appropriate for a roof replacement? A local roofer submitted a proposal to me for a roof placement that included replacing rotten plywood with 1/2" CDX. The existing plywood on my roof is only 3/8". I thought perhaps he made a mistake, but no, this is what he is proposing. He said it's only a difference of 1/8" thickness. Is it customary to mix the thickness of existing and new plywood on a roof? <Q> I spent 4 years representing a roofing company in NC. <S> Occasionally I have seen 3/8" plywood on a roof. <S> It is certainly not preferred by professionals interested in quality. <S> Mixing thicknesses is not preferred either, but if you use the proper underlayments and decent shingles, particularly archatectural, you aren't likely to notice. <S> Half inch on a roof is usually OK and very common, at least around here. <S> Obviously 3/4" is better. <S> If you can afford to replace all the plywood, it certainly wouldn't be a bad thing. <A> If you mix thicknesses of plywood it will cause a problem eventually, and the thicker sheathing will be noticeable (probably within a month)... and this will reduce the life of the shingles, tar paper, and roof. <S> 3/8" should be replaced (optimally) <S> but it would be better to use all the same thickness sheathing than to mix them. <S> In other words, you don't want to have 3/8" above the 1/2" because it will create a ridge that water will settle in. <A> It's fine, and there is no need for the extreme (and expensive) approaches suggested in some other answers. <S> Where a 1/2" sheet butts up against a 3/8" sheet, the 3/8" side can have several strips of roofing felt (narrow on the bottom, then progressively wider) <S> applied to ease the transition, before the base layer of felt is applied to the whole roof. <S> 3/8" APA rated sheathing is typically rated for a 24" span (distance between rafters) in a roof application. <S> Half-inch is rated for a 32" span in the same application.
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Due to market pressures the 1/2" may actually cost less than the 3/8" and will be stronger. If you absolutely must use different thickness sheathing, replace all of the plywood above the one that needs to be replaced (to the ridge of the roof).
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Does this wiring meet the NEC standards? An inspector took the following photograph of a residential home’s circuit breaker panel. White wires are connected to the neutral bar. Black wires are connected to the circuit breakers in the picture, but there’s one white wire among them. Why would it be wired in such a way (rather than a black and red wires alternating)? Note: The circuit breaker panel is not labeled. A pic from Google images of a circuit breaker panel: <Q> The answer is No. brhans, guess is correct. <S> Many water heaters are wired this way because there are no neutral's in a standard 240V water heater. <S> The white wire needs at least 6" of other than white or green identification <S> some inspectors want everything in the box identified (taped or painted). <S> Black is the most common color using tape but, it can be painted also I found red fingernail polish and this is totally legal also. <S> Added for history: The oldest code book I have handy is NEC 2002. <S> Section 200.6 & 200.7 both identify the grounding conductor as white / gray or white / gray stripe along entire length.310.12.C states ungrounded conductors shall be finished to be clearly distinguishable from grounded and grounding conductors. <S> So this has been code for quite some time. <A> The white wire is being used as an ungrounded (hot) conductor, though it has not been properly marked as such. <S> Looks like a fairly large wire, so it's surely feeding a larger 240 volt load. <S> The breaker that it's terminated at, should be a double pole breaker, and is likely rated 50 amperes (check handle label for rating). <S> The load being supplied by this circuit will require 240 volts only, so a grounded (neutral) conductor will not be required. <S> Because of this, the circuit will be wired with a two conductor (plus ground) cable. <S> Two conductor cables are manufactured with a black, white, and bare (or green) conductor inside. <S> According to National Electrical Code, the white wire should be marked to indicate this repurposing. <A> This happens because of the common color codes for multi-wire cables. <S> xx/2 <S> cable is Black, White, and Bare. <S> xx/3 cable is Black, Red, White and Bare. <S> A 240V (only) load like a water heater only needs 2 conductors. <S> So they use the /2 cable, which is Black, White and Bare. <S> However they are both "hot", so white is the incorrect color. <S> But previously , the marking wasn't necessary if the use was plainly obvious . <S> Heavy wire makes it plainly obvious that this is a high-current circuit which is almost certainly 240V, and the 2-pole breaker confirms it.
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When using this type of cable for 240 volt circuits, the white wire can be used as a hot conductor. The rules require this be "marked" with colored tape or paint.
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How can I help pantry cabinets stay cool? My pantry doesn't have air conditioning, and recently I noticed (using a cheap wall-mounted liquid thermometer) that the pantry itself got up to 85°f degrees (it was >100°f outdoors). I don't know what temperature it got within the cabinets, but it got high enough to melt some home-made lard . I'm guessing the fluctuating heat in there isn't good for long-term food storage. Is there something I can do that'll magically make the cabinets cooler than the rest of the room? Maybe some kind of insulating interior liner, or a special interior paint? The cabinet doors aren't airtight. Currently they are regular kitchen cabinetry, though I coincidentally am tearing out those cabinets and putting in home-made floor to ceiling cabinets next month ( mostly so I can re-purpose the kitchen cabinets in the kitchen itself ), so if the "fix" happens to require more intensive work on the cabinets, well, now's the perfect time. (I wanted to tag this question 'pantry' but that tag isn't available and I lack the rep to create it) <Q> There is no magic; you are fighting thermodynamics. <S> You may be able to cool individual containers somewhat by wrapping damp cloth around them <S> so evaporation takes away some of the heat. <S> And you'd basically have reinvented the "swamp cooler". <S> Or you could insulate thoroughly and reinvent the icebox (assuming you have a source for ice). <S> Or insulate and run an air conditioner, reinventing the refrigerator. <A> I did this for my pantry, which also houses my home entertainment devices. <S> Temps would like to 100's; with this fix, they only get to mid-80's. <S> Hot air rises to the ceiling; you need to get that hot air out. <S> I did this by using two small computer fans to pull air out of the pantry. <S> I cut a hole in the drywall, then made a simple wooden box to fit in the hole. <S> This wood enabled mounting of the fans. <S> The fans are powered by DC current. <S> I reuse phone chargers for this type of stuff all the time. <S> Some soldering after some math <S> and you are good to go. <S> Just make sure the fans are not pulling more amps than the charger is supplying. <S> If you want pics, I can snap some. <A> I put two home made DIY olla clay pots with water in my pantry and it cooled the air in the room considerably. <S> I was very surprised. <S> If your olla pot is sealed good, it is sufficient to put the pot in a bowl to catch up the bit of water that seeps through the unbaked clay very slowly each day.
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You could arrange some sort of drip or pump to keep those moist, and a fan to improve the evaporation and heat removal...
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Is replacing a natural gas cap with a quick-connect valve a task exclusively for a professional? Is there a specialized wrench that I should use on this cap to the natural gas line? I'd like to install a quick connect valve for a barbecue hose More importantly, at the local big box store, the attendant (even though selling the parts) frowned when I suggested I'd be doing the install myself. Is this task really so tricky and/or so risky that an amateur should not attempt it? <Q> <A> Gasfitting is not rocket science given the right training and tools, but the consequences of getting it wrong are severe, to you and your house and potentially to your neighborhood. <S> I really, really recommend letting a pro handle it; they have the proper pressure and leak testers, they have the experience, and they have the insurance. <A> Is the quick disconnect rated for natural gas? <S> If so a standard pipe wrench is used with thread sealant rated for natural gas. <S> The yellow PFTE tape rated for natural gas is one example. <S> This is a very low pressure fitting. <S> When building homes with natural gas the line is pressurized to 30 lbs and a gauge attached the inspector checks the gauge and all the appliances then rechecks the gauge if there is any pressure change <S> you don't get your green tag to allow the Gas company to hook up the regulator (also all the venting and connections to appliances, <S> shut off valves must pass inspection). <S> I used to pressurize the systems at the end of the day and check them the next day when I got to the site. <S> If the pressure held I would call for the inspection. <S> Since this is outside a good bubble leak solution could be used but this is not as good as a pressure check.
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While the risks related to a leak are relatively low for someone properly trained , the fact that you might get your gas shut off by the town if the fittings havent' been tested and approved by their inspector means it's not worth that risk.
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What is this copper-looking wire on my light fixture? I had an electrician install two hanging pendants over a kitchen island. The install went well and the pendants work fine. However, after the install I've had an opportunity to look at the fixtures up close, I can't understand what this wire is. The light fixture hangs with a chain and has a typical-sized black cord which I assume is the main power for the pendant. However, there's a copper-colored wire which hangs along down with the chain and the black cord, which doesn't seem normal to me. Any idea on what this is? I'd like to remove it, but I want to be sure what it is and if it's important first. Here is a closeup of the copper-colored wire: And here is a view of the full pendant: <Q> I'm almost certain it is the ground wire. <S> Do not remove it. <S> If you were to open the light fixture, there should be a screw where one end of the ground wire is attached. <S> Then, mounted in the ceiling is a metal box through which is fed all the electrical wiring. <S> There's a screw on the ceiling box that the other end of the ground wire is attached. <S> Thank you. <S> A natural follow-up question to this, since the original intent was to remove the distracting copper wire for aesthetic reasons, is: will the ground wire be less effective if it is painted or somehow covered to match the rest of the fixture? <S> Adding paint is essentially adding a layer of insulation to the wire. <S> Since insulated wire still conducts electricity, a painted ground wire will be just as effective (i.e., conductive) as one that lacks an exterior coat of paint. <S> You simply want to ensure that you do not paint over the location where it is attached to the screw on both ends (it needs metal-on-metal contact). <A> It is required by more-recent codes. <S> They definitely can be unsightly. <S> Instead of trying to paint it, which will look awful, just replace it. <S> Some black-insulated, copper, 16 or 14 (or maybe even 18) <S> AWG wire should do the trick quickly and easily. <S> There's no need to disturb the other wires, just run the new black wire in the place of the existing bare copper wire. <A> It is a frame ground. <S> If it wasn't there and a live wire was touching, nothing would happen; until you went to change or clean the fixture. <S> Then you become the source to ground and will get a zap. <S> A frame ground is a safety requirement and is not to be removed. <S> After a week you won't even notice it anymore.
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Yes it is a ground wire. It's bonded to the metal of the fixture so that if a bare live wire touches the metal it trips the breaker.
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What to do about noisy drain? I live in 7 store city building in Prague. Last night I couldn't sleep not only because of the hot weather, but also thanks to drain which just wouldn't shut up. It makes gurgly noises every now and then. I never noticed it during the day, but then during the day I'm at work. I assume this is caused by water falling from other apartments down the drain, causing decrease of the pressure in the drain pipe, which is balanced through the drain in my kitchen. I tried to temporarily solve the problem by clogging the drain with some rags but it wasn't enough. Is the cause I assumed correct? Either way, what can I do to stop this from happening? <Q> Adding an air admittance valve might help. <S> From rmit.edu.au <S> Depending on space restrictions, you could instead consider replacing a normal P-trap or bottle-trap with an "anti-siphon trap" Example - McAlpine "Silentrap" <S> The major advantage of the Silentrap over Resealing Traps is that because the air is drawn through the Valve and not through the water seal, gurgling is eliminated and a much quieter discharge is ensured ... <S> Whenever syphonic conditions develop, the negative pressure causes the Valve to rise, allowing air to be drawn into the discharge pipe. <S> The pressure is thereby neutralised before it can have any effect on the water seal within the Trap. <S> On cessation of the syphonic action, the Valve closes, making the Silentrap air and watertight ... <S> The Silentrap has been most rigorously tested and will not unseal, even under the most abnormal conditions <S> My emphasis. <S> There is an unusually good explanatory video which demonstrates the operation of this and other types of air-admittance valve (AAV) <S> This is just an example, Other brands are available and probably work just as well. <A> If you can plug the sink so it holds water then the vent stack can't draw air through your sink. <S> This will then stop your sink from gurgling. <S> Good luck! <A> If this is a bathroom sink there is usually an overflow that also connects to the drain. <S> Some tape over the vent and a little water left in the sink may be all you need.
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You need to get a drain plug that will give you a watertight seal.
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Can you vent a portable AC's exhaust through the chimney? The place I live doesn't have sliding windows so I thought maybe I could vent the hot air from the portable AC through the chimney? The chimney belongs to the fireplace that I don't use. (I've not bought the AC yet.) <Q> Yes, it works, I've done it. <S> Opening a window as per the usual instructions creates an uninsulated opening to the hot outdoors, leading to heat entering your house even as you try to cool it. <S> So long as the chimney is sound, and penetrates through the roof (some old chimneys may be sealed off if no longer in use), it's a good option. <S> Try to jam the vent pipe up as far as you can to make sure the hot air goes up. <A> If it is truly a traditional fireplace chimney and your AC unit has a flexible exhaust hose you could use the fireplace. <S> Like mentioned above, make sure you are the only one who uses the fireplace. <S> Sometimes water heaters and furnaces in older homes will be vented through the chimney. <S> I would think using a piece of wire you could secure the flexible vent hose to the flu vent up inside the so the warm air could go right up the chimney. <A> You can, but ONLY if it's a less efficient single vent exhaust unit. <S> If the unit has two hoses, one is for cool air intake (to cool the coils) and the other is to exhaust the hot waste air. <S> A single hose unit is less efficient because it takes the cooler inside air to cool the coils, meaning you're wasting energy taking the previously cooled air to cool the coils. <S> If you have a dual hose unit, I would suggest installing a vent to the outside to bring in cool air (like dryer rigid tubing). <S> Put a mesh over it to keep bugs and critters out. <S> The other catch here is if the chimney is dirty. <S> You could knock loose debris off, which could get sucked up in your AC. <S> I would have it cleaned before using it as exhaust.
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It's much more efficient and effective to vent the hot air out a chimney - this is what the chimney was designed for - than to open a window for the outlet.
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A light fixture with 2 white, 2 black wires, 1 copper. How do I connect this light fixture to a ceiling junction box? (See drawn diagram) I have a problem with this configuration and can't figure it out on my own. Configurations I've tried: 1: Bulb1 and Bulb2 white and black wires connected to light switch black and white wires. Copper wire connected to junction. I Turn power on, turn switch on, no light. 2: Bulb1 and Bulb2 white and black wires connected to breaker white and black wires. Copper wire connected to junction. Turn on power, lights come on, but switch has no control. Note: I have tested continuity on the switch, and its wires. There is no problem with the switch. Also the light fixture is brand new. And the light bulbs are tested working fine. This picture above really simplified things. (took it from another thread) <Q> The easy answer is "Hook it up just like the previous light was hooked up", but I'm assuming that you didn't keep track of the original configuration. <S> Then connect the black wire from the panel to the black wire leading to the switch. <S> Then connect the white wire from the switch to both black wires of the lamp. <S> Then, make sure you mark both ends of that white wire with black (tape, pen, paint, etc) to show that it's a switched hot <S> so someone doesn't confuse it with a neutral some day. <A> If that's really how the wiring is running through the building, you need a "switch loop" configuration. <S> Hot (black) to light box to switch; switch output (white relabelled black or red) to lamp hot (black); lamp neutral (white) to neutral running back to the breaker box (white). <S> The bare copper wire from the lamp is a safety ground, and should be attached to ground running back to the breaker box (may be bare copper, green insulation, or the conduit if the wiring was in conduit). <S> Usually if the ground is a wire it will be attached directly to the lamp's electrical box via a screw; you can attach the lamp's ground wire to the same point. <A> I think the black from the breaker should go to the black from the switch. <S> Then the two whites should hook into the light. <S> The white from the switch will now become the hot/positive wire. <S> (Or the exact opposite is true... <S> I'm not sure if it matters.) <S> At any rate... the circuit need to flow to the switch. <S> without seeing the fixture, I'm guessing it doesn't matter which positive/negative hookup on it you use, as they are probably connected. <S> MAKE <S> SURE <S> BREAKER OFF AND GROUND/COPPER IS SECURED.
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To make it work again, connect both of the lamp white wires to the white wire coming from the circuit breaker panel. Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong.
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Best way to replace caster wheels I have a nice oak desk chair that's on caster wheels. The plastic wheel inserts used by the manufacturer broke up and crumbled, of course, because that's what plastic does when used in high-stress applications it shouldn't be used in. I bought some replacement wheels with metal inserts, but the inserts are 3/8 inch while the originals were 5/8 inch, so the drilled holes are too large to begin with, plus they've been worn by the wheels wiggling about once the plastic inserts broke up. This photo demonstrates what I'm talking about: I see two solutions here: Fill the holes with wood filler and drill new holes to fit. Fill the holes with wood filler and then insert the new metal bases while the wood filler is still wet, basically gluing them in. The downside of option 1 is drilling four identically plumb holes with a hand drill. I don't own a drill press. The downside of option 2 is I would need to fill the inserts with something to keep wood filler out while I'm inserting, but that's no big deal. Am I overlooking other options? How should I proceed? <Q> Wood filler is not a quality repair you should expect to last. <S> You might have enough room to drill your small hole beyond the current hole. <A> For sure wood filler isn't going to work... <S> if the previous suggestion (which is quite good) won't work for you, for whatever reason, perhaps something like Bondo would. <S> You could put the new caster stems into small baggies, or <S> finges cut from rubber gloves to seal them off from the epoxy. <S> I've done this in very similar situations and it works fine to prevent the epoxy from getting into the new parts. <S> Having said that, the idea of gluing dowels into the holes and re-drilling is the classic solution. <A> I ended up just finding bases that fit the holes despite the fact that nobody seems to make them larger than 3/8" in anything other than plastic. <S> I decided I'd rather replace plastic bases every few years than go with the other options. <S> The wooden dowel repair is a good solution -- if you have a drill press and can drill four identically plumb holes. <S> I don't, and the odds of me producing four perfectly plumb holes with a hand drill are slim to none. <S> And if any of those holes are even a little bit out of plumb, the chair will sit unevenly. <S> Bondo might work, but Michael Karas made a good point in his comment to PaulBinCT2. <S> Those bases work by expanding at the ends when you insert the caster, and making sure they'll still expand and hold tightly in bondo was going to be dodgy. <S> I've upvoted the other answers for the valuable guidance. <S> The wood filler probably was a terrible idea.
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Best option - drill hole out to 3/4", cover a 3/4" wooden dowel with wood glue, stuff it in the hole, wait for glue to dry, cut it off flush, drill new hole.
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How to fix deck board at edge not lined up with beam? My near-ground level deck is quite large (20x16) at one side and its end is a one-step stair. But at the edge, one end is flush with the last deck board (Trex 5.5") but the other end is like 1" short, showing the below beam. Flush side: Short side: This happens because over the number of boards, the gaps could be slightly different between each board and the bottom frame could have some off measurement. My question is how to fix this? If the below beam showing like 3-4" then I can put on another board. In this case, it's only 1". I am thinking of two options below so please let me know: Option A: Cut the last board by 1" along the length (on table saw). So the new width is 4.5" (Green bar). Then get another 16' long board and cut it so the new width is 3" (Purple bar) only instead of 5.5". The read line is the below beam lumber. Then on the side of the beam, I can install 1" fascia board. This way there will be 1-2" of overhang. If I follow this option, do I join the two new cut boards closely or do I leave gap in between them? They are no longer having groove at the gap. So I will screw on top instead of using Universal Trex Fasteners. Option B: Create custom build trim pieces. This is harder (Trex doesn't sell the 90 degree trim pieces for Enhance version). So basically I need to create an L-shape using 1x8 for the long side of the L and 1x2 for the short side. But on the short side of the L, I will have to cut it so that one end is exactly 2" while the other end is 1". Then I can slap this trim on and stain same color of the deck. At this point, it's too late to move the stair below or change the frame. I have many more 16" Trex boards. So I am tempting to go with Option A . What are your suggestions? <Q> . <S> Put the last boards down but don’t use the universal clip on the rim joist side. <S> screw the side toward the rim joist but do it at an angle and bury the screw inside the groove <S> So that the board looks normal and is securely attached (the screw will be hidden). <S> Secure a board <S> the length of the underlap (or whatever you want to call it) next to the last board <S> so it looks normal. <S> Get underneath the board and snap a line right next to the rim joist. <S> Take the board off and rip it for the final piece. <S> Screw it down from the top knowing it will get covered by whatever railing system I use. <S> I think that will work just fine <S> and I don’t have to add material. <A> Can you just extend the deck frame far enough to support another full deck board? <S> Add another rim joist to that side with maybe a one inch block behind it at the end that’s showing, and a two or three inch block at the end that’s shorter. <S> Should give you enough extra frame to attach decking into. <A> If it's the first board above the stairs, expect it to see a lot of traffic. <S> Of the two you mention, I'd go with Option A. <S> I would join the two pieces together, rather than leave a gap (because there's not much bearing for that small edge piece to fasten to the deck top). <S> Best approach would be to rip a tongue and groove, and consider putting a layer of construction adhesive below the lip piece. <A> You could look for wider board <S> but i do not think they make one .Add <S> a new framing board. <S> rip a piece of decking .Glue <S> into grove to make one width, and glue it to frame and screw it also. <S> round it over as a nosing.
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My first choice would be to see if you can get a wider deck board (~7.25") and then rip that to the appropriate width.
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Are window air conditioner support brackets designed to support a window air conditioner by itself? I have this air conditioner that is designed to be used with vertical sliding windows. The problem is that I have a horizontal sliding window. I understand that the air conditioner I have is designed to be held in place by the window sash holding the top of the unit. I have seen solutions such as this answer where a support frame is installed in lieu of the sash to hold the air conditioner in place. I am very inexperienced with carpentry so I was hoping there is another way to do this for my first project. My HOA requires that I install a air conditioner support bracket under the air conditioner. My question is: Can I install my air conditioner using ONLY the support bracket to hold it in place and keep it from falling? The answer to this question seems to indicate that I can use only the support bracket to keep it in place. But it only has one up-vote and is not accepted so I wanted to make sure and get more concrete answers. One of my concerns is that the support bracket that I bought seems to be too narrow compared to the air conditioner. The bracket is 5 inches wide and the air conditioner is 19 inches wide. It seems like the air conditioner could just tip over one side or the other. Also, the product summary for the bracket says that it transfers weight from the window sash for safety. But I'm not sure if that means that it works without a sash, or that it is supposed to complement the sash. Here is the support bracket: Here is the air conditioner: <Q> The bracket is entirely sufficient to support your AC. <S> That's doesn't mean that in some freak occurrence it couldn't come out of the window. <S> If you want to add to the margin of safety, you want to prevent the upper sash from loosening enough to prevent it from rotating out. <S> Most units have screw holes in the frame of the AC that allow you to fasten it to the upper sash. <S> At that point not much short of a tornado is going to get it out of the window... <S> Hope this helps! <A> NO. <S> the bracket is designed to complement the strength and stability of the upper sash. <S> You must cut a length of lumber to span the opening and stabilize the unit at the top, like the upper sash on a hung window would. <S> Thin Plexiglass alone is not strong enough either. <A> A simpler solution would be to install a "no drilling and no tools required window A/C bracket". <S> For instance, the TopShelf A/C Bracket installs in minutes from the inside and is adjustable to myriad window sizes and you won't have to drill into the window frame leaving permanent damage to the window frame.
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Otherwise a small screw or nail to prevent the sash from moving will do the trick.
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Pulley setup to raise a laundry drying bar levelly I bought a bike hoist which I modified to use to raise and lower a bar that acts as a drying rack for damp clothes in my laundry room. I now have the following setup: The problem is that when I pull on the rope attached to the wall, the right side of the bar goes up while the left side stays down. Eventually the left side of the bar also starts to go up, but by this point all the clothes on hangars have slipped down to the left side. Is there a way to modify this pulley setup in order to have the bar raise and lower levelly? <Q> As both bib and Johnny have said, the simplest way to do this is to use two separate ropes. <S> You can either manually pull on both ropes at the same time, or the ropes can be tied together prior to each reaching its first pulley away from the wall (A & B in the image below). <S> Alternately, as Alchymist mentioned in a comment, you can use a single rope with the middle of the rope at the wall and the two ends the attachment points at the ceiling. <S> Using the pulleys you already have, and keeping the location you are pulling from the same as you are currently using, you can do something like: <S> Pulleys A and B can be located adjacent to each other. <S> You could, of course, use one double-pulley block for A+B. <S> However, I assumed you would want to use the materials you already have on hand. <A> In theory, a perfectly balanced load and frictionless pulleys would result in a level rise. <S> But lack of balance and friction are always with us. <S> Note that the load is divided by 4 in the current setup (two movable pulleys in series). <S> If you use two ropes each with one movable pulley not in series, the load will only be divided by 2, but will move up twice as fast. <A> OR you can use deep notches in the bar to separate and fix the clothes hangers in their places and when the second pulley starts to work and bar levels up in the topmost position your hangers are where you left them. <A> While I don't disagree with Bib, Johnny, or Makyen, you could just terminate the ropes to the ceiling at both ends of the clothes bar, and tie a pull rope to the center of the rope like this: the result will pull the bar up in a generally level fashion, so long as the load on the bar is fairly evenly distributed. <S> Fewer pulleys, less rope.
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The simplest way to ensure a level rise is to use two separate ropes, tied together on the pulling end, similar to the mechanism for venetian blinds.
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Dishwasher Drain Pump: How to Test? my dishwasher isn't draining. I checked the drain hose and it's clear enough that I could blow air through it. I removed the drain pump, model #W10158351B I measured the resistancebetween the two connector pins: ~24ohms. I connected the two leads toa 120VAC supply. The impeller would turn maybe 2-3 degrees and stop,with the motor making a hum. I did this with the polarity only oneway (randomly chosen). I think this is pretty conclusive that the motor is dead but I'd like to be sure before I buy the replacement. I'm also surprised to find water has been leaking out of the pump bit by bit. I presume that means water has made it past the impeller seal and is generally bad? Is my drain pump bad? Are there other tests I should perform? Thanks! <Q> I have the same problem you had. <S> I am not sure of the proper impedance you should have. <S> One internet repair place says 200 ohms for a good motor. <S> I did the same thing you did (same problem - dishwasher not draining) <S> lines were clear to disposal - I also exercised the check valve which is in the 90 degree black elbow right off the drain pump on my machine <S> (Whirlpool model WDF760SADM) <S> forward and backward to ensure it flowed and would stop flow in the reverse direction, which it did. <S> I do not have leads that are compatible with the motor to check that it runs. <S> I am going to replace the drain pump to see if that is the problem. <S> Also, the jerky motion on the impeller is due to the magnetism on the motor. <A> For future reference, before you take the thing out: Unplug and replug the power and switch it on. <S> Three things should happen in a reasonably modern dishwasher. <S> Power light will become bright <S> The water inlet sensor will either open or fail-close on pressure of inlet water. <S> Closed switch means no power to dishwasher. <S> The drain pump will do one or two revolutions at minimum <S> Since the sensor is fail close <S> it should get hot to the touch ( <S> by just a few degrees, don't worry) over time if it is working . <S> So check that it gets warm. <S> Some models also have lights to indicate SENSOR OK, that saves a bit of waiting. <S> If that isn't working, check the water on the inlet side. <S> Remember you have to power down the machine with the plug to reset the switch, if you find you have a valve closed. <S> If the water is fine, the sensor is fine, the drain swamp is reasonably clean, and still no "chugs" from the pump - take it out for manual testing. <S> Any leakage or failure to run should be considered graveyardable offenses. <S> It just isn't economically reasonable to do anything else than getting a working one - scrap dealers usually have tonnes of them. <A> With the pump still on the machine: Use a multimeter on the continuity setting check each lead to see if either one has continuity to the frame of the machine. <S> If it does, that is bad. <S> This is an unlikely culprit. <S> Put the multimeter on the ohms setting. <S> Put the probes on the two motor contacts. <S> Anything in the 10s to 100s of ohms should be considered good. <S> If it is higher than hundreds, it is possibly bad. <S> If it passes those tests, remove the pump and attach 120v AC (or whatever the specs say on the label on the pump depending on the country you live in). <S> You can do this by taking an old power cord from a junk appliance, tool, or light and stripping the ends of power and common. <S> Attach them to the motor leads and plug it in keeping hands away from those wires. <S> If the impeller spins it is good. <S> If it spins, Id suggest looking into the impeller housing- <S> there may be a small chip of glass or ceramic in there that could be jamming the impeller. <A> Dishwasher was not draining completely. <S> Checked hoses and found them to be clear. <S> Could not hear pump running as was usual when starting a cycle. <S> I was about to order a new pump when I decided to see if the check valve was operating properly. <S> The valve was fine but I did notice that the impeller was difficult to turn. <S> Further investigation revealed a chunk of ceramic pottery that had become wedged between the impeller housing and the impeller. <S> Removal of the piece of pottery restored the dishwasher to normal operating condition.
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It can be the water inlet sensor or the water inlet pressure that is fouling up. If it doesnt spin it is bad.
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How can I remove very old wallpaper? I've got wallpaper that was put up in the 70s. Trying to get it off the wall is proving impossible. Have used all the home remedies and removers you can get st the store to no avail. May try the steamer, but doubt it will get this stuff off Any suggestions? <Q> This seems like a drastic, nuclear option approach when you are thinking " <S> but I just wanted to remove the wallpaper!" <S> You can waste a lot of time and effort and products trying to get an old wallpapered wall looking as good for paint as a newly sheetrocked wall. <S> Demo is messy (so is wallpaper removal) but quick. <S> New rock is quick...and you can fix any wiring or insulation issues in the wall. <S> There's another wallpaper removal question where where one answer says they spent 6 nights doing a 10x10 room <S> sure, it was the worst room, but tearing out and new rock would definitely have been faster, in my experience. <A> A wallpaper steamer, a scorer, a stripping knife and A LOT of patience. <S> I had to remove 3 layers of wallpaper in a flat <S> I just got. <S> This flat was built in the 19th century so no doubt the oldest layer was from the 60s at least. <S> I tried everything, from various products to just ripping it off with a knife. <S> In the end I bought myself a steamer and it turns out to be by far the best way. <S> Sometimes I felt like the steamer was going too slow <S> so I went back to old products <S> etc <S> and I always came straight back to the steamer, being at least twice as fast if not way more. <S> How to use it properly First, make sure you score the wallpaper with a scorer (mine was an orbital scorer). <S> This makes little holes in the wallpaper allowing for the steam to get in behind it. <S> Second, steam. <S> Stay on an area for about 20/30 seconds. <S> Third, when the area is steamed, slide the stripping knife behing the wallpaper. <S> Fourth, patience. <S> Be aware, this sounds straightforward, but sometimes you'll have to come back on the same area with the steamer for 2 or 3 times. <S> Still better than any product out there that they say "works like magic" (untrue). <A> Removing old wallpaper is not only very slow work, it often doesn't end well. <S> You can end up needing to skim coat all of the walls, or even repair pulled-out chunks of drywall or problems that were hidden by the wallpaper. <S> If the wallpaper does not have any texture, just leave it in place. <S> Clean up the seams <S> so they're smooth (sand or skim), although even those often aren't noticeable after painting with flat paint. <S> Of course, repair anything that needs it. <S> But priming well and then painting with a good grade of paint saves all of the removal time, cost, and repair/cleanup, and the result looks essentially the same (or close enough that removal isn't worth it).
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It is often faster and cheaper (particularly if you are paying for labor, so faster is cheaper, but merely saving your own time is good, too) to either cover the wallpapered wall with thin sheetrock, or bash out the wallpapered wall, do anything a sensible person would do with the wall open, and place new sheetrock.
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Best way to mount a wooden tabletop to a flat surface I am in the process of building a new desk for myself. I have already built two drawers that will function as the legs of the desk, and I have the tabletop itself. Now, what would be the best way to attatch the flat tabletop to the flat top of the two drawers,without visible screws? <Q> A relatively unattractive method would be to use small right-angle brackets. <S> Less unattractive that way. <S> The more expensive and more sophisticated method would be to use a pocket hole drill jig: Lowes Pocket Hole Drill Jig which would require sufficient thickness of wood in the drawer assembly sides. <S> There are ramifications to each of these methods depending on your restrictions regarding visible screws. <S> Even a simpler method of drilling into the desktop, fastening vertically, then installing a plug and refinishing the surface will mean screws that are not seen, but may not meet your requirements overall. <A> If all you want is for the tabletop to be secure to the drawers, I would just use a bead of construction adhesive around the top of each drawer unit. <S> Downside of this is it won't be easily disassembled later. <S> If you need it to be removable, I would use small angle brackets and short screws that are normally used to secure a countertop to cabinets. <S> An alternative to this, and slightly more complicated, is to use ball-head screws and cam locks, these are commonly used in "flat pack" type furniture, you have a screw that is attached to the countertop, and this sits inside a hole in the lower support that has a cam that is turned to pull the top tight with the lower supports. <A> Another simple variation might be to use dowels to secure the drawer to the top. <S> Of course this only works in the planar directions. <S> If the top is heavy enough it might work as is. <S> But you can reinforce it by using a very small amount of construction adhesive to just keep them together. <S> Then you can still disassemble with relative ease.
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You could also attach a cleat to the sides of the drawer assembly, driving screws into the drawer assembly horizontally and into the desktop vertically.
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Suggestions for securing the garage I need to upgrade my garage, because there's been a break in and there sure as duck be another one soon (typo intended, no profanities here, even though I'm entitled to it as a victim of my bike being stolen twice this summer). So, I'm thinking like this. The thieves will break the lock and manged to force the door and there's nothing I can do about that. What I can do, though, is a combination of two things. Slowing the stupid #¤%&s down. Making noise and/or signaling the attempt silently to my phone. I need suggestions on the setup of such thing so I can present it to my super. They've promised to fix it but I fear that it will be even better if I help them along. We can't have just the alarm go off as the door opens, because I'd set it off myself too. And it's probably a good idea not to have external panels for blipping in because that might be vandalized. The garage is a small, room for a single vehicle with walls and roof, so the only possible entry point is the door. If I can slow the thieves down by a few minutes, I'll hear the sound and/or be alarmed and can call the cops. <Q> Slowing the [thieves] down. <S> I guess this is mostly a matter of fitting better locks, <S> and/or a stronger door. <S> You might be able to reinforce a flimsy door. <S> You might be able to add an extra lock. <S> PIR triggered lights may have a slight deterrent effect. <S> You might contact the crime-prevention officer in your local police force. <S> They may be able to provide advice and guidance. <S> Making noise and/or signaling the attempt silently to my phone. <S> A typical alarm will make a beeping sound when the door is opened. <S> This gives you ten seconds or so go to the control panel inside and enter the disarm code. <S> The warning sound will startle an amateur burglar and they usually won't have time to do anything to disable the alarm before the full alarm sounds. <A> It's all about reinforcing the door and securing the content inside - much like a Russian doll or onion of security! <S> CCTV (mostly) will act as a deterrent but often the recording quality is poor and if the thief wears a hat or balaclava, gloves and dark clothes then it's usually impossible to catch them after the event... <S> Securing the door would be either get a stronger door with better locks that can withstand brute force or add extra locks to the existing door to slow the thief down so much that they give up. <S> Example solutions that will prevent the door opening without attacking the hinges include: <S> Cabinets : <S> Adding on to securing content inside the garage is the obvious steel lockable cabinets (these should also be secured to the wall/floor. <A> Install "dummy" cameras. <S> They have IR motion detection, swivel and point and light up when activated. <S> They look real but you won't be breaking stupid Swedish law prohibiting video surveillance. <S> Get some signs too, that say "WARNING- 24 hour surveillance and armed response". <A> "Shed security alarms" find some good results for alarm options. <S> For example, a battery-operated PIR alarm could be mounted somewhere at the back (making it harder for an intruder to disable/break) with a keyfob for arming/disarming. <S> There are other options as well that have keypads, or magnetic contact switches, but with all of these stand-alone units you are susceptible to someone just smashing it to bits (or removing the batteries), so I prefer ways to minimize that possibility. <A> It sounds like a great application for some video security cameras that capture and remotely store video shots. <S> Then if there is trouble you have a much better shot at identifying who the culprit is. <S> Some video cameras can be setup to alert when the picture changes in an unexpected way over a short time interval. <S> This alert can be a silent one and could be even more effective than trying to install other types of sensors and intrusion alarms.
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Securing the content inside the garage with wall-mounted locks and/or brackets/loops will make it harder, still, for the thief to remove the item if they get past the door. I would consider fitting an alarm.
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